3
,H
\
LEAVES
FROM THE JOURNAL
OF
OUR LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS,
FROM 1848 TO 1861.
TO WHICH ARE PREFIXED AND ADDED EXTRACTS FROM THE SAME
JOURNAL GIVING AN ACCOUNT OF
EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND,
AND TOURS IN ENGLAND AND IRELAND,
AND
YACHTING EXCURSIONS.
EDITED B Y ARTHUR HELPS.
LONDON :
SMITH, ELDER AND CO.
1868.
[THE RIGHT OF TRANSLATION is RESERVED.]
DA
552.
TO
THE DEAR MEMORY OF HIM
WHO MADE THE LIFE OF THE WRITER BRIGHT AND HAPPY,
THESE SIMPLE RECORDS
ARE LOVINGLY AND GRATEFULLY INSCRIBED.
EDITOR'S PREFACE.
THE circumstances which have led to the publica-
tion of this Volume are, briefly, these.
During one of the Editor's official visits to Bal-
moral, her Majesty very kindly allowed him to see
several extracts from her journal, relating to excur-
sions in the Highlands of Scotland. He was much
interested by them ; and expressed the interest
which he felt. It then occurred to her Majesty
that these extracts, referring, as they did, to some
of the happiest hours of her life, might be made
into a book, to be printed privately, for presenta-
tion to members of the Royal Family and her
Majesty's intimate friends ; especially to those
who had accompanied and attended her in these
tours.
It was then suggested to her Majesty by some
persons, among them a near and dear relative of
the Queen, and afterwards by the Editor, that this
work, if made known to others, would be very
interesting to them as well as to the Royal Family
and to her Majesty's intimate friends. The Queen,
however, said, that she had no skill whatever in
authorship ; that these were, for the most part,
mere homely accounts of excursions near home ;
and that she felt extremely reluctant to publish
anything written by herself.
To this the Editor respectfully replied, that, if
printed at all, however limited the impression, and
however careful the selection of persons to whom
copies might be given, some portions of the volume,
or quite as probably incorrect representations of
its contents, might find their way into the public
journals. It would therefore, he thought, be better
at once to place the volume within the reach of her
Majesty's subjects, who would, no doubt, derive
from it pleasure similar to that which it had
afforded to the Editor himself. Moreover, it
would be very gratifying to her subjects, who
had always shown a sincere and ready sympathy
with the personal joys and sorrows of their
Sovereign, to be allowed to know how her rare
moments of leisure were passed in her Highland
home, when every joy was heightened, and every
care and sorrow diminished, by the loving com-
panionship of the Prince Consort. With his
memory the scenes to which this volume refers
would always be associated.
Upon these considerations her Majesty eventually
consented to its publication.
While the book was being printed, the Editor
suggested that it would gain in interest if other
extracts were added to it, describing her Majesty's
progresses in England, Ireland, and the Channel
Islands.
The Queen was pleased to assent ; and the
additions were accordingly made.
It will easily be seen that this little work does
not make any pretension to be more than such
a record of the impressions received by the Royal
Author in the course of these journeys, as might
hereafter serve to recall to her own mind the
scenes and circumstances which had been the
source of so much pleasure. All references to
political questions, or to the affairs of Govern-
ment, have, for obvious reasons, been studiously
omitted. The book is mainly confined to the
natural expressions of a mind rejoicing in the
beauties of nature, and throwing itself, with a
delight rendered keener by the rarity of its oppor-
tunities, into the enjoyment of a life removed, for
the moment, from the pressure of public cares.
It would not be becoming in the Editor to dwell
largely upon the merits of this work. He may,
( viii )
however, allude to the picturesque descriptions of
scenery in which the work abounds ; to the sim-
plicity of diction throughout it ; and to the perfect
faithfulness of narration which is one of its chief
characteristics ; for in every page the writer
describes what she thinks and feels, rather than
what she might be expected to think and feel.
Moreover, he may point out the willingness to
be pleased, upon which so much of the enjoyment
of any tour depends : and also the exceeding
kindliness of feeling the gratitude even with
which the Royal Tourists recognize any attention
paid to them, or any manifestation of the cordial
attachment felt towards them, by any of her
Majesty's subjects, from the highest to the hum-
blest, whom they happen to meet with in the
course of their journeys.
The Editor thinks that he should not be doing
justice to the Royal Author's book not doing
what, if it were any other person's work which
was entrusted to his editing, he should do if he
were to forbear giving utterance to the thoughts
which occurred to him in reference to the notes to
the Volume.
These notes, besides indicating that peculiar
memory for persons, and that recognition of per-
sonal attachment, which have been very noticeable
in our Sovereigns, illustrate, in a striking manner,
the Patriarchal feeling (if one may apply such a
word as " patriarchal " to a lady) which is so strong
in the present occupant of the Throne. Perhaps
there is no person in these realms who takes a
more deep and abiding interest in the welfare of
the household committed to his charge than our
gracious Queen does in hers, or who feels more
keenly what are the reciprocal duties of masters
and servants.
Nor does any one wish more ardently than her
Majesty, that there should be no abrupt severance
of class from class, but rather a gradual blending
together of all classes, caused by a full commu-
nity of interests, a constant interchange of good
offices, and a kindly respect felt and expressed by
each class to all its brethren in the great brother-
hood that forms a nation.
Those whose duty it has been to attend upon
the Queen in matters of business, must have
noticed that her Majesty, as a person well versed
in the conduct of affairs, is wont to keep closely
to the point at issue, and to speak of nothing but
what is directly connected with the matter before
her. But whenever there is an exception to this
rule, it arises from her Majesty's anxious desire
to make some inquiry about the welfare of her
subjects to express her sympathy with this man's
sorrow, or on that man's bereavement to ask what
is the latest intelligence about this disaster, or
that suffering, and what can be done to remedy
or assuage it thus showing, unconsciously, that
she is, indeed, the Mother of her People, taking
the deepest interest in all that concerns them,
without respect of persons, from the highest to the
lowest.
The Editor thinks that one point of interest
which will incidentally be disclosed by this pub-
lication, is the aspect of the Court in these our
times. What would not the historian give to have
similar materials within his reach, when writing
about the reigns of the great Queen Elizabeth or
the good Queen Anne ? There is always some-
thing in the present which has the appearance of
being trivial and prosaic ; but the future historian
will delight in having details before him furnished
by this book and by the Life of the Prince Consort*
which will enable him fully to describe the reign
of Victoria, and justly to appreciate the private
life of a Sovereign whose public life will enter so
largely into the annals of the nineteenth century.
* A work which has met with a very cordial reception from the
public, and which, from what the Editor has seen, will not by any
means diminish in interest as it proceeds to describe the full and
busy life of the Prince as a man.
One more remark the Editor cannot refrain
from making ; namely, that it is evident that her
Majesty never takes for granted the services and
attentions which are rendered to her, and which
we all know would be rendered to her from dutiful
respect and regard, but views them as especial
kindnesses shown to herself, and to which she
makes no claim whatever from her exalted position
as a Sovereign.
This latter trait, very characteristic of the Royal
Author, gives, throughout, an additional charm to
the book, which, on that account alone, and apart
even from its many other merits, will, the Editor
doubts not, be gratefully and affectionately wel-
comed by the public.
LONDON,
Jamiary, 1 868.
CONTENTS.
EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND.
DATE. PAGE
First Visit to Scotland 29 Aug. 1842 i
Visit to Blair Athole 9 Sept. 1844..... 29
Tour round the West Coast of Scotland and
Visit to Ardverikie 1 1 Aug. 1847 43
LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS, 1848 1861.
First Impressions of Balmoral 8 Sept. 1848 65
First Ascent of Loch-na-Gar t. 1 6 Sept. 1848 67
A "Drive" in the Balloch Buie 18 Sept. 1848 71
The First Stay at Alt-na-Giuthasach 30 Aug. 1849 73
A Beat in the Abergeldie Woods 3 Sept. 1849 76
Visit to the Dhu Loch, &c 11 Sept. 1849 78
Ascent of Ben-na-Bhourd ; 6 Sept. 1850 81
The Gathering 12 Sept. 1850 83
Salmon Leistering 13 Sept. 1850 85
LochMuich 1 6 Sept. 1850 87
Torch-light Ball at Corriemulzie 10 Sept. 1852 89
Account of the News of the Duke of Welling-
ton's Death 16 Sept. 1852 91
Building the Cairn on Craig Gowan, c n Oct. 1852 95
Laying the Foundation Stone of our New
House 28 Sept. 1853 99
The Kirk 29 Oct. 1854 102
Arrival at the New Castle at Balmoral 7 Sept. 1855 103
Impressions of the New Castle 8 Sept. 1855 104
News of the Fall of Sevastopol 10 Sept. 1855 105
The Betrothal of the Princess Royal 29 Sept. 1855 107
The Kirk 14 Oct. 1855 108
XIV CONTENTS.
DATE. PAGE
Finding the Old Castle Gone 30 Aug. 1856 109
Gardens, &c. round the New Castle 31 Aug. 1856 no
Love for Balmoral 13 Oct. 1856 .... Ill
Opening of the New Bridge over the Linn of
Dee 8 Sept. 1857 ..... 112
Visits to the Old Women 26 Sept. 1857 113
Visit to the Prince's Encampment at Feithort 6 Oct. 1857 115
A Fall of Snow 18 Sept. 1858 117
Ascent of Morven 14 Sept. 1859 121
The Prince's Return from Aberdeen 15 Sept. 1859 123
Fete to the Members of the British Association 22 Sept. 1859 124
Expedition to Inchrory 30 Sept. 1859 127
Ascent of Ben Muich Dhui 7 Oct. 1859 130
First Great Expedition : To Glen Fishie and
Grantown 4 Sept. 1860 134
Second Great Expedition : To Invermark
and Fettercairn 20 Sept. 1861 144
Expedition to Loch Avon 28 Sept. 1861 153
Third Great Expedition : To Glen Fishie,
Dalwhinnie, and Blair Athole 8 Oct. 1861 156
Last Expedition 16 Oct. 1861 167
TOURS IN ENGLAND AND IRELAND, AND YACHTING
EXCURSIONS.
First Visit to Ireland 2 Aug. 1849 175
Yachting Excursion 20 Aug. 1846 195
Second Yachting Excursion 2 Sept. 1846 203
Visit to the Lakes of Killarney 27 Aug. 1861 216
Directions to the Binder.
Balmoral FRONTISPIECE.
Balmoral-The old Castle TO FACE PAGE 65
TheShielofAlt-na-Giuthasach
Balmoral Castle from the North-West..
Fording the Poll Tarf !!"..'!.'!.".'.'.'.'.'.'.'.' ,64
Luncheon at Cairn Lochan \\\
EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND.
FIRST VISIT TO SCOTLAND.
On Board the Royal George Yacht,
Monday, August 29, 1842.
AT five o'clock in the morning we left Windsor for the
railroad, the Duchess of Norfolk, Miss Matilda Paget,
General Wemyss, Colonel Bouverie, and Mr. Anson
following us. Lord Liverpool, Lord Morton, and Sir
James Clark, who also accompany us, had already gone
on to Woolwich.
We reached London at a quarter to six, got into our
carriages, and arrived at Woolwich before seven. Albert
and I immediately stepped into our barge. There was a
large crowd to see us embark. The Duke of Cambridge,
Lord Jersey, Lord Haddington, Lord Bloomfield, and
Sir George Cockburn were present in full uniform. Sir
George handed me into the barge. It was raining very
hard when we got on board, and therefore we remained
in our sitting-room.
I annex a list of our squadron :
1. The ship "Pique," 36 guns.
2. The sloop " Daphne," 18 guns (both of which join
us at the Nore).
3. The steam-vessel "Salamander" (with the carriages
on board).
4. The steam-vessel " Rhadamanthus " (Lord Liver-
pool and Lord Morton on board).
5. The steam-vessel "Monkey" Tender, which has
towed us till nine o'clock (Mr. Anson and the
equerries on board).
6. The steam-vessel " Shearwater," which is now towing
us (Sir James Clark on board).
7. The steam-vessel " Black Eagle " (which has the
ladies on board, and which tows us in front of the
"Shearwater").
8. The steam-vessel "Lightning" (with the Jager
Benda, and our two dogs, " Eos " and " Cairnach,"
on board) in front, which has gone to take our
barge on board from the " Pique."
9. The steam-vessel " Fearless " (for survey).
This composes our squadron, besides which the Trinity-
House steamer goes with us, and, also, a packet. Innu-
merable little pleasure steamboats have been following us
covered with people.
Tuesday, August 30.
We heard, to our great distress, that we had only
gone 58 miles since eight o'clock last night. How
annoying and provoking this is ! We remained on deck
all day lying on sofas ; the sea was very rough towards
evening, and I was very ill. We reached Flamborough
Head on the Yorkshire coast by half-past five.
Wednesday, August 31.
At five o'clock in the morning we heard, to our great
vexation, that we had only been going three knots an
hour in the night, and were 50 miles from St. Abb's
Head.
We passed Coquet Island and Bamborough Castle on
the Northumberland coast, which I was unfortunately
unable to see ; but from my cabin I saw Feme Island,
( 3 )
with Grace Darling's lighthouse on it ; also Rocky Islands
and Holy Island. At half-past five I went on deck, and
immediately lay down. We then came in sight of the
Scotch coast, which is very beautiful, so dark, rocky,
bold, and wild, totally unlike our coast. We passed
St. Abb's Head at half-past six. Numbers of fishing-
boats (in one of which was a piper playing) and steamers
full of people came out to meet us, and on board of one
large steamer they danced a reel to a band. It was a
beautiful evening, calm, with a fine sunset, and the air
so pure.
One cannot help noticing how much longer the days
are here than they were in England. It was not really
dark till past eight o'clock, and on Monday and Tuesday
evening at Windsor it was nearly dark by half-past seven,
quite so before eight. The men begged leave to dance,
which they did to the sound of a violin played by a little
sailor-boy j they also sang.
We remained on deck till twenty-five minutes to nine,
and saw many bonfires on the .Scotch coast at Duribar
Lord Haddington's place, Tyninghame, and at other
points on the coast. We let off four rockets, and burned
two blue lights. It is surprising to see the sailors climb on
the bowsprit and up to the top of the mast-head this too
at all times of the day and night. The man who carried
the lantern to the main-top ran up with it in his mouth to
the top. They are so handy and so well conducted.
We felt most thankful and happy that we were near
our journey's end.
Thursday, September i.
At a quarter to one o'clock, we heard the anchor let
down a welcome sound. At seven we went on deck,
where we breakfasted. Close on one side were Leith
and the high hills towering over Edinburgh, which was
in fog ; and on the other side was to be seen the Isle of
May (where it is said Macduff held out against Macbeth),
the Bass Rock being behind us. At ten minutes past
eight we arrived at Grdnton Pier, where we were met
by the Duke of Buccleuch, Sir Robert Peel and others.
They came on board to see us, and Sir Robert told us
that the people were all in the highest good-humour,
though naturally a little disappointed at having waited
for us yesterday. We then stepped over a gangway on
to the pier, the people cheering, and the Duke saying
that he begged to be allowed to welcome us. Our ladies
and gentlemen had landed before us, safe and well, and
we two got into a barouche, the ladies and gentlemen
following. The Duke, the equerries, and Mr. Anson
rode.
There were, however, not nearly so many people in
Edinburgh, though the crowd and crush were such that
one was really continually in fear of accidents. More
regularity and order would have been preserved had
there not been some mistake on the part of the Provost
about giving due notice of our approach. The impression
Edinburgh has made upon us is very great ; it is quite
beautiful, totally unlike anything else I have seen ; and
what is even more, Albert, who has seen so much, says
it is unlike anything he ever saw ; it is so regular, every-
thing built of massive stone, there is not a brick to be
seen anywhere. The High Street, which is pretty steep,
is very fine. Then the Castle, situated on that grand
rock in the middle of the town, is most striking. On
the other side the Calton Hill, with the National Monu-
ment, a building in the Grecian style ; Nelson's Monument;
Burn? Monument; the Gaol; the National School, &c. ;
all magnificent buildings, and with Arthur's Seat in the
( 5 )
background, overtopping the whole, form altogether a
splendid spectacle. The enthusiasm was very great, and
the people very friendly and kind. The Royal Archers
Body Guard * met us and walked with us the whole way
through the town. It is composed entirely of noblemen
and gentlemen, and they all walked close by the carriage ;
but were dreadfully pushed about. Amongst them were
the Duke of Roxburgh and Lord Elcho on my side ; and
Sir J. Hope on Albert's side. Lord Elcho f (whom I
did not know at the time) pointed out the various
monuments and places to me as we came along. When
we were out of the town, we went faster. Every cottage
is built of stone, and so are all the walls that are used as
fences.
The country and people have quite a different cha-
racter from England and the English. The old women
wear close caps, and all the children and girls are bare-
footed. I saw several handsome girls and children with
long hair; indeed all the poor girls from sixteen and
seventeen down to two or three years old, have loose
flowing hair ; a great deal of it red.
As- we came along we saw Craigmillar Castle, a ruin,
where Mary, Queen of Scots, used to live. We reached
Dalkeith at eleven ; a large house, constructed of reddish
stone, the greater part built by the Duchess of Monmouth,
and the park is very fine and large. The house has three
fronts, with the entrance on the left as you drive up. The
* The Duke of Buccleuch told me the other day, that the Archers
Guard was established by James I., and was composed of men who
were mounted and armed from head to foot, and who were bound
always to be near the Sovereign's person. At Flodden Field, King
James IV.'s body, it is said, was found covered and surrounded by
the bodies of the Archers Guard.
t Now Earl of Wemyss.
Duchess of Buccleuch arrived directly after us, and we
were shown up a very handsome staircase to our rooms,
which are very comfortable. We both felt dreadfully
tired and giddy.
We drove out together. The park is very extensive,
with a beautiful view of Arthur's Seat and the Pentland
Hills; and there is a pretty drive overhanging a deep
valley. At eight we dined a large party. Everybody
was very kind and civil, and full of inquiries as to our
voyage.
Dalkeith House, Friday, September 2.
At breakfast I tasted the oatmeal porridge, which I
think very good, and also some of the " Finnan haddies."
We then walked out. The pleasure-grounds seem very
extensive and beautiful, wild and hilly. We walked down
along the stream (the river Esk), up a steep bank to a
little cottage, and came home by the upper part of the
walk. At four o'clock we drove out with the Duchess of
Buccleuch and the Duchess of Norfolk the Duke and
equerries riding the others in another carriage. We
drove through Dalkeith^ which was full of people, all
running and cheering.
Albert says that many of the people look like Germans.
The old women with that kind of cap which they call a
" mutch," and the young girls and children with flowing
hair, and many of them pretty, are very picturesque ; you
hardly see any women with bonnets.
Such a thick "Scotch mist" came on that we were
obliged to drive home through the village of Lasswade,
and through Lord Melville's Park, which is very fine.
( 7 )
Saturday, September 3.
At ten o'clock we set off we two in the barouche
all the others following, for Edinburgh. We drove in
under Arthur's Seat, where the crowd began to be very
great, and here the Guard of Royal Archers met us ;
Lord Elcho walking near me, and the Duke of Roxburgh
and Sir J. Hope on Albert's side. We passed by Holyrood
Chapel, which is very old and full of interest, and Holyrood
Palace, a royal-looking old place. The procession moved
through the Old Town up the High Street, which is a
most extraordinary street from the immense height of the
houses, most of them being eleven stories high, and
different families living in each story. Every window
was crammed full of people. They showed us Knox's
House, a curious old building, as is also the Regent
Murray's House, which is in perfect preservation. In
the Old Town the High Church, and St. Paul's in the
New Town, are very fine buildings. At' the barrier, the
Provost, presented us with the keys.
The girls of the Orphan Asylum, and the Trades in
old costumes, were on a platform. Further on was the
New Church, to which strange to say, as the church is
nearly finished they were going to lay the foundation
stone. We at length reached the Castle, to the top of
which we walked.
The view from both batteries is splendid, like a
panorama in extent. We saw from them Heriofs Hospital,
a beautiful old building, founded, in the time of James,
by a goldsmith and jeweller,, whom Sir Walter Scott has
made famous in his Fortunes of Nigel. After this, \ve
got again into the carriages and proceeded in the same
way as before, the pressure of the crowd being really
quite alarming ; and both I and Albert were quite terri-
fied for the Archers Guard, who had very hard work of
( 8 )
it ; but were of the greatest use. They all carry a bow
in one hand, and have their arrows stuck through their
belts.
Unfortunately, as soon as we were out of Edinburgh,
it began to rain, and continued raining the whole after-
noon without interruption. We reached Dalmeny, Lord
Roseberry's. at two o'clock. The park is beautiful, with
the trees growing down to the sea. It commands a very
fine view of the Forth, the Isle of May, the Bass Rock,
and of Edinburgh; but the mist rendered it almost
impossible to see anything. The grounds are very
extensive, being hill and dale and wood. The house
is quite modern : Lord Roseberry built it, and it is
very pretty and comfortable. We lunched there. The
Roseberrys were all civility and attention. We left them
about half-past three, and proceeded home through Leith.
The view of Edinburgh from the road before you
enter Leith is quite enchanting ; it is, as Albert said,
"fairy-like," and what you would only imagine as a thing
to dream of, or to see in a picture. There was that
beautiful large town, all of stone (no mingled colours of
brick to mar it), with the bold Castle on one side, and
the Calton Hill on the other, with those high sharp hills
of Arthur's Seat and Salisbtiry Crags towering above all,
and making the finest, boldest background imaginable.
Albert said he felt sure the Acropolis could not be finer ;
and I hear they sometimes call Edinburgh " the modern
Athens." The Archers Guard met us again at Leith,
which is not a pretty town.
The people were most enthusiastic, and the crowd
very great. The Porters all mounted, with curious Scotch
caps, and their horses decorated with flowers, had a very
singular effect ; but the fishwomen are the most striking-
looking people, and are generally young and pretty
( 9 )
women very clean and very Dutch-looking, with their
white caps and bright-coloured petticoats. They never
marry out of their class.
At six we returned well tired.
Sunday, September 4.
We walked to see the new garden which is being
made, and saw Mackintosh there, who was formerly
gardener at Claremont. The view of Dalkeith (the
village, or rather town) from thence is extremely pic-
turesque, and Albert says very German-looking. We
returned over a rough sort of bridge, made only of
planks, which crosses the Esk, and which, with the
wooded banks on each side, is excessively pretty.
Received from Lady Lyttelton good accounts of our
little children. At twelve o'clock there were prayers in
the house, read by Mr. Ramsay, who also preached.
At half-past four the Duchess drove me out in her own
phaeton, with a very pretty pair of chestnut ponies, Albert
riding with the Duke and Colonel Bouverie. We drove
through parts of the park, through an old wood, and
along the banks of the South Esk and the North Esk,
which meet at a point from which there is such a beautiful
view of the Pentland Hills. Then we drove, by a private
road, to Newbattle, Lord Lothian's place. The park is
very fine, and the house seems large ; we got out to look
at a most magnificent beech-tree. The South Esk runs
close before the house, by a richly wooded bank.
From thence we went to Dalhousie, Lord Dalhousie's.
The house is a real old Scotch castle, of reddish stone.
We got out for a moment, and the Dalhousies showed
us the drawing-room. From the window you see a
beautiful wooded valley, and a peep of the distant hills.
Lord Dalhousie said there had been no British sove-
reign there since Henry IV. We drove home by the
same way that we came. The evening was as the
whole day had been clear, bright, and frosty, and the
Moorfoot Hills (another range) looked beautiful as we
were returning. It was past seven when we got home.
Monday, September 5.
I held a Drawing-room at Dalkeith to-day, in the
gallery. The Ministers and Scotch Officers of State
were in the room, and the Royal Archers were in
attendance in the room and outside of it, like the
Gentlemen at Arms in London. Before the Drawing-
room I received three addresses from the Lord Provost
and Magistrates, from the Scotch Church, and from the
Universities of St. Andrews, Glasgow, and Edinburgh
to which I read answers. Albert received his just after I
did mine, and read his answers beautifully.
Tuesday, September 6.
At nine o'clock we left Dalkeith as we came. It was
a bright, clear, cold, frosty morning. As we drove along
we saw the Pentlands, which looked beautiful, as did also
Arthur's Seat, which we passed quite close by. The Salis-
bury Crags, too, are very high, bold, and sharp. Before
this we saw Craigrnillar. We passed through a back part
of the town (which is most solidly built), close by Heriofs
Hospital, and had a very fine view of the Castle.
I forgot to say that, when we visited the Castle, we
saw the Regalia, which are very old and curious (they
were lost for one hundred years) ; also the room in which
James VI. of Scotland and the First of England was
born such a very, very small room, with an old prayer
written on the wall. We had a beautiful view of Edin-
burgh and the Forth. At Craigleith (only a half-way
house, nine miles) we changed horses. The Duke rode
with us all the way as Lord Lieutenant of the county,
until we arrived at Dalmeny, where Lord Hopetoun met
us and rode with us. At eleven we reached the South
Qiieensferry, where we got out of our carriage and
embarked in a little steamer ; the ladies and gentlemen
and our carriages going in another. We went a little
way up the Forth, to see" Hopetoun House, Lord Hope-
toun's, which is beautifully situated between Hopetoun
and Dalmeny. We also saw Dundas Castle, belonging
to Dundas of Dundas, and further on, beyond Hopetoun,
Slackness Castle, famous in history. On the opposite
side you see a square tower, close to the water, called
Rosyth, where Oliver Cromwell's mother was said to
have been born, and in the distance Dunfermline, where
Robert Bruce is buried. We passed close by a very
pretty island in the Forth, with. an old castle on it, called
Inchgarvie; and we could see the Forth winding beauti-
fully, and had a distant glimpse of Edinburgh and its
fine Castle. We landed safely on the other side, at
North Queensferry, and got into our carriages. Captain
Wemyss, elder brother to General Wemyss, rode with us
all the way beyond Cowdenbeath (eight miles). The first
village we passed through on leaving the Queensferry,
was Inverkeithing. We passed by Sir P. Durham's
property.
We changed horses at Cowdenbeath. At a quarter-past
one we entered Kinross-shire. Soon after, the country
grew prettier, and the hills appeared again, partly wooded.
We passed Loch Leven, and saw the castle on the lake
from which poor Queen Mary escaped. There the
country is rather flat, and the hills are only on one side.
We changed horses next at Kinross. Soon after this,
the mountains, which are rather barren, began to appear.
Then we passed the valley of Glen Farg; the hills are
very high on each side, and completely wooded down
to the bottom of the valley, where a small stream runs on
one side of the road it is really lovely.
On leaving this valley you come upon a beautiful view
of Stratheam and Moncrieffe HilL We were then in
Perthshire. We changed horses next at the Bridge of
Earn (12 miles). At half-past three we reached Dupplin,
Lord Kinnoull's. All the time the views of the hills, arid
dales, and streams were lovely. The last part of the
road very bad travelling, up and down hill. Dupplin is
a very fine modern house, with a very pretty view of the
hills on one side, and a small waterfall close in front of
the house. A battalion of the 42nd Highlanders was
drawn up before the house, and the men looked very hand-
some in their kilts. We each received an address from the
nobility and gentry of the county, read by Lord Kinnoull ;
and from the Provost and Magistrates of Perth. We
then lunched. The Willoughbys, Kinnairds, Ruthvens,
and Lord Mansfield, and one of his sisters, with others,
were there. After luncheon, we walked a little way in
the grounds, and then at five o'clock we set off again.
We very soon came upon Perth, the situation of which is
quite lovely ; it is on the Tay, with wooded hills skirting
it entirely on one side, and hills are seen again in the
distance, the river winding beautifully.
Albert was charmed, and said it put him in mind of
the situation of Basle. The town itself (which is very
pretty) was immensely crowded, and the people very
enthusiastic ; triumphal arches had been erected in
various places. The Provost presented me with the
keys, and Albert with the freedom of the city. Two
miles beyond is Scone (Lord Mansfield's), a fine-looking
house of reddish stone.
( '3 )
Lord Mansfield and the Dowager Lady Mansfield
received us at the door, and took us to our rooms, which
were very nice.
Wednesday, September 7.
We walked out, and saw the mound on which the
ancient Scotch kings were always crowned ; also the old
arch with James VI. 's arms, and the old cross, which is
very interesting.
Before our windows stands a sycamore-tree planted by
James VI. A curious old book was brought to us from
Perth, in which the last signatures are those of James I.
(of England) and of Charles I., and we were asked to
write our names in it, and we did so. Lord Mansfield
told me yesterday that there were some people in the
town who wore the identical dresses that had been worn
in Charles I.'s time. At eleven o'clock we set off as
before. We drove through part of Perth, and had a very
fine view of Scone. A few miles on, we passed the field
of battle of Luncarty, where tradition says the Danes
were beaten by Lord Erroll's ancestor. We also passed
Lord Lynedoch's property. We then changed horses at
the " New Inn " at Auchtergavcn. The Grampians
came now distinctly into view ; they are indeed a grand
range of mountains.
To the left we saw Tullybdton, where it is said the
Druids used to sacrifice to Bel ; there are a few trees on
the top of the mountain.
To the left ; but more immediately before us, we saw
Birnam, where once stood Birnam Wood, so renowned
in Macbeth. We passed a pretty shooting place of Sir
W. Stewart's, called Rohallion, nearly at the foot of
Birnam. To the right we saw the Stonnont and Strath-
tay. Albert said, as we came along between the moun-
( '4 )
tains, that to the right, where they were wooded, it was
very like T/iuringen, and on the left more like Switzer-
land. Murthly, to the right, which belongs to Sir W.
Stewart, is in a very fine situation, with the Tay winding
under the hill. This lovely scenery continues all along
to Dunkeld. Lord Mansfield rode with us the whole way.
Just outside Dunkeld, before a triumphal arch, Lord
Glenlyon's Highlanders, with halberds, met us, and
formed our guard a piper playing before us. Dunkeld
is beautifully situated in a narrow valley, on the banks of
the Tay. We drove in to where the Highlanders were
all drawn up, in the midst of their encampments, and
where a tent was prepared for us to lunch in. Poor Lord
Glenlyon* received us; but he had suddenly become
totally blind, which is dreadful for him. He was led
about by his wife; it was very melancholy. His blindness
was caused by over-fatigue. The Dowager Lady Glen-
lyon, the Mansfields, Kinnoulls, Buccleuchs, and many
others were there. We walked down the ranks of the
Highlanders, and then partook of luncheon, the piper
played, and one of the Highlanders f danced the " sword
dance." (Two swords crossed are laid upon the ground,
and the dancer has to dance across them without touching
them.) Some of the others danced a reel.
At a quarter to four we left Dunkeld as we came, the
Highland Guard marching with us till we reached the
outside of the town. The drive was quite beautiful all
the way to Tay mouth. \ The two highest hills of the
* The late Duke of Athole.
f Charles Christie, now steward to the present Dowager Duchess
of Athole.
J I revisited Taymouth last autumn, on the 3rd of October, from
Dunkeld (incognita), with Louise, the Dowager Duchess of Athole,
and Miss MacGregor. As we could not have driven through the
( '5 )
range on each side are (to the right, as you go on after
leaving Dunkeld) Craig-y-Barns and (to the left, imme-
diately above Dunkeld) Craigvinean. The Tay winds
along beautifully, and the hills are richly wooded. We
changed horses first at Balanagard (nine miles), to which
place Captain Murray, Lord Glenlyon's brother, rode
with us. The hills grew higher and higher, and Albert
said it was very Swiss-looking in some parts. High
ribbed mountains appeared in the distance, higher than
any we have yet seen. This was near Aberfeldy (nine
miles), which is charmingly situated and the mountains
very lofty. At a quarter to . six we reached Tay mouth.
At the gate a guard of Highlanders, Lord Breadalbane's
men, met us. Taymouth lies in a valley surrounded by
very high, wooded hills ; it is most beautiful. The house
is a kind of castle, built of granite. The coup-cTeeil was
indescribable. There were a number of Lord Breadal-
bane's Highlanders, all in the Campbell tartan, drawn up
in front of the house, with Lord Breadalbane himself in a
Highland dress at their head, a few of Sir Neil Menzies'
men (in the Menzies red and white tartan), a number of
grounds without asking permission, and we did not wish to be
known, we decided upon not attempting to do so, and contented
ourselves with getting out at a gate close to a small fort, into which
we were led by a woman from the gardener's house, near to which
we had stopped, and who had no idea who we were.
We got out, and looked from this height down upon the house
below, the mist having cleared away sufficiently to show us every-
thing ; and then, unknown, quite in private, I gazed not without
deep emotion on the scene of our reception twenty-four years ago,
by dear Lord Breadalbane, in a princely style, not to be equalled in
grandeur and poetic effect.
Albert and I were then only twenty-three, young and happy.
How many 'are gone that were with us then !
I was very thankful to have seen it again.
It seemed unaltered. 1866.
( '6 )
pipers playing, and a company of the 9 2nd Highlanders,
also in kilts. The firing of the guns, the cheering of
the great crowd, the picturesqueness of the dresses, the
beauty of the surrounding country, with its rich back-
ground of wooded hills, altogether formed one of the
finest scenes imaginable. It seemed as if a great chief-
tain in olden feudal times was receiving his sovereign.
It was princely and romantic. Lord and Lady Breadal-
bane took us upstairs, the hall and stairs being lined
with Highlanders.
The Gothic staircase is of stone and very fine ; the
whole of the house is newly and exquisitely furnished.
The drawing-room, especially, is splendid. Thence you
go into a passage and a library, which adjoins our private
apartments. They showed us two sets of apartments,
and we chose those which are on the right hand of the
corridor or ante-room to the library. At eight we dined.
Staying in the house, besides ourselves, are the Buccleuchs
and the two Ministers, the Duchess of Sutherland and
Lady Elizabeth Leveson Gower,* the Abercorns, Rox-
burghs, Kinnoulls, Lord Lauderdale, Sir Anthony Mait-
land, Lord Lorne,f the Fox Maules, Belhavens, Mr. and
Mrs. William Russell, Sir J. and Lady Elizabeth, and the
Misses Pringle, and two Messrs. Baillie, brothers of Lady
Breadalbane. The dining-room is a fine room in Gothic
style, and has never been dined in till this day. Our
apartments also are inhabited for the first time. After
dinner the grounds were most splendidly illuminated,
a whole chain of lamps along the railings, and on the
ground was written in lamps, "Welcome Victoria
Albert."
* Now Duchess of Argyll,
t The present Duke of Argyll.
A small fort, which is up in the woods, was illumi-
nated, and bonfires were burning on the tops of the
hills. I never saw anything so fairy-like. There were
some pretty fireworks, and the whole ended by the
Highlanders dancing reels, which they do to perfection,
to the sound of the pipes, by torchlight, in front of the
house. It had a wild and very gay effect.
Taymouth, Thursday, September 8.
Albert went off at half-past nine o'clock to shoot with
Lord Breadalbane. I walked out with the Duchess of
Norfolk along a path overlooking the Tay, which is very
clear, and ripples and foams along over the stones, the
high mountains forming such. a rich background. We
got up to the dairy, which is a kind of Swiss cottage,
built of quartz, very clean and nice. From the top of it
there is a very pretty view of L'och Tay.
We returned home by the way we came. It gained
the whole time, and very hard for a little while. Albert
returned at half-past three. He had had excellent sport,
and the trophies of it were spread out before the house
nineteen roe-deer, several hares and pheasants, and three
brace of grouse ; there was also a capercailzie that had
been wounded, and which I saw afterwards, a magnificent
large bird.
Albert had been near Aberfeldy, and had to shoot and
walk the whole way back, Lord Breadalbane himself
beating, and 300 Highlanders out. We went out at five,
with Lady Breadalbane and the Duchess of Sutherland ;
we saw part of Loch Tay, and drove along the banks of
the Tay under fine trees, and saw Lord Breadalbane's
American buffaloes.
Friday, September 9.
Albert off again after nine o'clock, to shoot. Soon
after he left I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk
across the iron bridge, and along a grass walk over-
hanging the Toy.
Two of the Highland Guard (they were stationed at
almost every gate in the park) followed us, and it
looked like olden times to see them w r ith their swords
drawn.
We then walked to a lodge on the same road. A fat,
good-humoured little woman, about forty years old, cut
some flowers for each of us, and the Duchess gave her
some money, saying, " From Her Majesty." I never
saw any one more surprised than she was ; she, however,
came up to me and said very warmly, that my people
were delighted to see me in Scotland. It came on to
rain very heavily soon afterwards, but we walked on.
We saw a woman in the river, with her dress tucked up
almost to her knees, washing potatoes.
The rain ceased just as we came home, but it went on
pouring frequently. Albert returned at twenty minutes to
three, having had very hard work on the moors, wading
up to his knees in bogs every now and then, and had
killed nine brace of grouse. We lunched ; then we went
to the drawing-room, and saw from the window the High-
landers dancing reels ; but unfortunately it rained the
whole time. There were nine pipers at the castle ;
sometimes one, and sometimes three played. They
always played about breakfast-time, again during the
morning, at luncheon, and also whenever we went in
and out ; again before dinner, and during most of dinner-
time. We both have become quite fond of the bag-
pipes.
At a quarter-past five we drove out with the Duchess
( '9 )
of Buccleuch and the Duchess of Sutherland (poor Lady
Breadalbane not being very well), Lord Breadalbane
riding the whole time before us. We took a most
beautiful drive, first of all along part of the lake and
between the hills such thorough mountain scenery,
and with little huts, so low, so full of peat smoke, that
one could hardly see anything for smoke. We saw Ben
Lawers, which is said to be 4,000 feet high, very well,
and further on, quite in the distance, Ben More also
the Glenlyon, and the river Lyon, and many fine glens.
It was quite dark when we came home at half-past seven.
At eight we dined ; Lord and Lady Ruthven and Lord
and Lady Duncan dined here. After dinner came a
number of people, about ninety, and there was a ball.
It opened with a quadrille, which I danced with Lord
Breadalbane, and Albert with the Duchess of Buccleuch.
A number of reels were danced, which it was very amusing
and pretty to see.
Saturday, September 10.
We walked to the dairy and back a fine bright
morning ; the weather the two preceding days had been
very unfortunate. I drove a little way with Lady Breadal-
bane, the others walking, and then got out, and each
of us planted two trees, a fir and an oak. We got in
again, and drove with the whole party down to the lake,
where we embarked. Lady Breadalbane, the Duchess of
Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth went by land, but all the
others went in boats. With us were Lord Breadalbane
and the Duchess of Norfolk and Duchess of Buccleuch ;
and two pipers sat on the bow and played very often.
I have since been reading in The Lady of the Lake, and
this passage reminds me of our voyage :
( 20 )
" See the proud pipers on the bow,
And mark the gaudy streamers flow
From their loud chanters down, and sweep
The furrow'd bosom of the deep,
As, rushing through the lake amain,
They plied the ancient Highland strain."
Our row of 16 miles up Loch Tay to Auchmore, a
cottage of Lord Breadalbane's, near the end of the lake,
was the prettiest thing imaginable. We saw the splendid
scenery to such great advantage on both sides : Ben
Lawers, with small waterfalls descending its sides, amid
other high mountains wooded here and there ; with Ken-
more in the distance ; the view, looking back, as the loch
winds, was most beautiful. The boatmen sang two Gaelic
boat-songs, very wild and singular ; the language so gut-
tural and yet so soft. Captain McDougall, who steered,
and who is the head of the McDougalls, showed us the
real " brooch of Lorn," which was taken by his ancestor
from Robert Bruce in a battle. The situation of Auch-
more is exquisite ; the trees growing so beautifully down
from the top of the mountains, quite into the water, and
the mountains all round, make it an enchanting spot.
We landed and lunched in the cottage, which is a very
nice little place. The day was very fine ; the High-
landers were there again. We left Auchmore at twenty
minutes past three, having arrived there at a quarter
before three. The kindness and attention to us of Lord
and of Lady Breadalbane (who is very delicate) were
unbounded. We passed Killin, where there is a moun-
tain stream running over large stones, and forming water-
falls.
The country we came to now was very wild, beginning
at Glen Dochart, through which the Dochart flows ;
nothing but moors and very high rocky mountains. We
came to a small lake called, I think, Laragilly, amidst
the wildest and finest scenery we had yet seen. Glen
Ogle, which is a sort of long pass, putting one in mind of
the prints of the Kyber Pass, the road going for some way
down hill and up hill, through these very high mountains,
and the escort in front looking like mere specks from the
great height. We also saw Ben Voirlich. At Loch Earn
Head we changed horses. Lord Breadalbane rode with
us the whole way up to this point, and then he put his
Factor (in Highland dress) up behind our carriage. It
came on to rain, and rained almost the whole of the rest
of the time. We passed along Loch Earn, which is a very
beautiful long lake skirted by high mountains ; but is not .
so long or so large as Loch Tay. Just as we turned and
went by St. Fillans, the view of the lake was very fine.
There is a large detached rock with rich verdure on it,
which is very striking.
We also saw Glenartney, the mountain on which Lord
Willoughby has his deer forest. We passed by Sir D.
Dundas's place, Dunira, before we changed horses at
Comrie, for the last time, and then by Mr. Williamson's,
and by Ochtertyre, Sir W. Keith Murray's.
Triumphal arches were erected in many places. We
passed through Crieff, and a little past seven reached
Drummond Castle, by a very steep ascent. Lord Wil-
loughby received us at the door, and showed us to our
rooms, which are small but nice. Besides Lord and
Lady Willoughby and the two Misses Willoughby, and
our own people, the dinner-party was composed of the
Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth L. Gower,
Lord and Lady Carington, Mr. and Mrs. Heathcote, the
Duke de Richelieu, Lord Ossulston, Mr. Drummond, and
the officers of the Guard.
Drummond Castle, Sunday, September n.
We walked in the garden, which is really very fine,
with terraces, like an old French garden. Part of the
old castle and the archway remains.
At twelve o'clock we had prayers in the drawing-room,
which were read by a young clergyman, who preached a
good sermon.
It poured the whole afternoon, and, after writing, I
read to Albert the three first cantos of The Lay of the
Last Minstrel, which delighted us both; and then we
looked over some curious, fine old prints by Ridinger.
At eight we dined. The Duchess of Sutherland and
Lady Elizabeth had gone ; but Lord and Lady Abercorn
and Lord and Lady Kinnoull and their daughter added
to the party.
Monday, September 12.
Albert got up at five o'clock to go out deer-stalking.
I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk.
All the Highlanders (Lord Willoughby's people, no in
number), were drawn up in the court, young Mr. Wil-
loughby and Major Drummond being at their head, and
I walked round with Lady Willoughby. All the arms
they wore belonged to Lord Willoughby ; and there was
one double-hilted sword, which had been at the battle of
Bannockburn. I hear that at Dunkeld there were nearly
900 Highlanders, 500 being A thole men ; and, altogether,
with the various Highlanders who were on guard, there
were 1,000 men.
At length a little before three to my joy, Albert
returned, dreadfully sunburnt, and a good deal tired ;
he had shot a stag. He said the exertion and difficulty
were very great. He had changed his dress at a small
farm-house. Glcnartney is ten miles from Drummond
Castle ; he drove there. Campbell of Monzie (pro-
nounced " Monie "), a young gentleman who has a
place near here, went with him and was, Albert said,
extremely active. To give some description of this
curious sport, I will copy an extract from a letter Albert
has written to Charles,* giving a short account of it :
"Without doubt deer-stalking is one of the most
" fatiguing, but it is also one of the most interesting of
" pursuits. There is not a tree, or a bush behind which
" you can hide yourself. . . One has, therefore, to
" be constantly on the alert in order to circumvent
" them ; and to keep under the hill out of their wind,
" crawling on hands and knees, and dressed entirely in
"grey."
At half-past four we drove out with Lady Willoughby
and the Duchess of Buccleuch. We drove through Fern
Tower (belonging to the widow of the first Sir D. Baird),
where we stopped the carriage ; then to Abercairny,
Major Moray's. We got out there a moment to look
at the very fine house he is building, then drove home
by Monzie (Campbell of Monzie's), and Sir W. Murray's,
and had a very good view of the Highland hills a very
fine day. At eight we dined. The Belhavens, Seftons,
Cravens, Campbell of Monzie, and various others com-
posed the party. After dinner more people came
several in kilts ; and many reels were danced ; Campbell
of Monzie is an exceedingly good dancer. We danced
one country dance I with Lord Willoughby and
Albert with Lady Carington.
Tuesday, September 13.
We had to start early, and therefore got up soon after
seven o'clock; breakfast before eight. At nine we set
* My half-brother, Prince Lciningen, who died in 1856.
( -4 )
off. The morning was very foggy and hazy. We passed
near Lord Strathallan's place and stopped for a moment
where old Lady Strathallan was seated. Lord Willoughby
rode with us the whole way till we arrived here. Soon
after this we came to a very extraordinary Roman en-
campment at Ardoch, called the "Lindrum." Albert
got out; but I remained in the carriage, and Major
Moray showed it to him. They say it is one of the
most perfect in existence.
We changed horses at Grcenloaning, and passed
through Dunblane. At twelve o'clock we reached Stir-
ling, where the crowd was quite fearful, and the streets
so narrow, that it was most alarming ; and order was not
very well kept. Up to the Castle, the road or street is
dreadfully steep; we had a foot procession before us
the whole way, and the heat was intense. The situation
of the Castle is extremely grand ; but I prefer that of
Edinburgh Castle. Old Sir Archibald Christie explained
everything to us very well. We were shown the room
where James II. killed Douglas, and the window out of
which he was thrown. The ceiling is most curious. A
skeleton was found in the garden only twenty-five years
ago, and there appears to be little doubt it was Douglas's.
From the terrace the view is very extensive ; but it was so
thick and hazy, that we could not see the Highland hills
well. Sir A. Christie showed us the field of the battle of
Bannockburn; and the " Knoll," close under the walls
of the Castle, from which the ladies used to watch the
tournaments ; all the embankments yet remain. We
also saw Knox's pulpit.
We next passed through Falkirk, and changed horses
at Callander Park, Mr. Forbes's ; both he and Sir Michael
Bruce having ridden with us from beyond Stirling. We
passed Lord Zetland on the road, and shortly before
reaching Linlithgow, where we changed horses, Lord
Hopetoun met us. Unfortunately, we did not see the
Palace, which, I am told, is well worth seeing. The
Duke of Buccleuch met us soon after this, and, accom-
panied by a large number of his tenants, rode with us on
horseback to Dalkeith. We changed horses at Kirkliston,
and lastly at the outskirts of Edinburgh. There were a
good many people assembled at Edinburgh; but we were
unable to stop. We reached Dalkeith at half-past five.
The journey was 65 miles, and I was very tired, and
felt most happy that we had safely arrived here.
Dalkeith, Wednesday, September 14.
This is our last day in Scotland; it is really a delightful
country, and I am very sorry to leave it. We walked out
and saw the fine greenhouse the Duke has built, all in
stone, in the Renaissance style. At half-past three o'clock
we went out with the Duchess of Buccleuch, only Colonel
Bouverie riding with us. We drove through Melville
Park, and through one of the little collier villages (of
which there are a great many about Dalkeith}, called
Loan/lead, to Rosslyn.
We got out at the chapel, which is in excellent pre-
servation ; it was built in the fifteenth century, and the
architecture is exceedingly rich. It is the burying place
of the family of Lord Rosslyn, who keeps it in repair.
Twenty Barons of Rosslyn are buried there in armour.
A great crowd had collected about the chapel when we
came out of it.
From Rosslyn we then drove to Hawthornden, which
is also beautifully situated at a great height above the
river. To our great surprise we found an immense crowd
of people there, who must have run over from Rosslyn to
meet us.
We got out, and went down into some of the very
curious caves in the solid rock, where Sir Alexander
Ramsay and his brave followers concealed themselves^
and held out for so long a time. The Duchess told us
there were many of these caves all along the river to
Rosslyn.
We came home through Bonnyrigg, another collier
village, and through Dalkdth.
Thursday, September 15.
We breakfasted at half-past seven o'clock, and at eight
we set off, with the Duchess of Buccleuch, Lord Liver-
pool, and Lord Hardwicke following. The ladies and
equerries had embarked earlier. The day was very
bright and fine. The arrangements in Edinburgh,
through which we had to pass, were extremely well
managed, and excellent order was kept. We got out of
the carriage on the pier, and went at once on board the
" Trident," a large steamboat belonging to the General
Steam Navigation Company. The Duke and Duchess
of Buccleuch, Lady J. Scott, the Emlyns, Lord Cawdor,
and Lady M. Campbell, came on board with us, and
we then took leave of them. We both thanked the Duke
and Duchess for their extreme kindness, attention, and
hospitality to us, which really were very great indeed
we had felt ourselves quite at home at Dalkeith.
As the fair shores of Scotland receded more and more
from our view, we felt quite sad that this very pleasant
and interesting tour was over; but we shall never
forget it.
On board the " Trident " (where the accommodation
for us was much larger and better than on board the
" Royal George," and which was beautifully fitted up,)
were Admiral Sir E. Brace, a pleasant old man, Com-
mander Bullock, and three other officers. The " Rhada-
manthus," with some servants and carriages, set off
last night, as well as the " Shearwater," with Lord
Liverpool and Lord Hardwicke on board.
The "Salamander" (with Mr. and Mrs. Anson on
board), the " Fearless," and the " Royal George " yacht
set off at the same time with us, but the wind being
against us, we soon lost sight of the yacht, and, not very
long after, of all our steamers, except the " Monarch,"
which belongs to the General Steam Navigation Company,
and had some of our horses on board. It started nearly
at the same time, and was the only one which could keep
up with us. We passed Tantallon Castle, a grand old
ruin on the coast, and quite close to the Bass Rock,
which is very fine, and nearly opposite Tantallon. It
was entirely covered with sea-gulls and island geese,
which swarm in thousands and thousands, quite whitening
its sides, and hovering above and around it.
At two o'clock we passed the famed St. AbUs Head,
which we had so longed to see on our first voyage to
Scotland. I read a few stanzas out of Marmion, giving
an account of the voyage of the nuns to Holy Island,
and saw the ruins of the convent on it ; then Bamborough
Castle, and a little further on the Feme Islands. We
were very sorry to hear that poor Grace Darling had died
the night before we passed the first time.
Friday, September 16.
We heard that we had passed Flamborough Head at
half-past five in the morning. The "Black Eagle" we
passed at half-past eight last night, and we could only
just see her smoke by the time we came on deck. At
half-past nine I followed Albert on deck ; it was a fine,
bright morning. We had some coffee, and walked
( 28 )
about ; we were then quite in the open sea ; it was very-
fine all day. At five we were close to the " Rhada-
manthus," which had been in sight all day. We had^
a very pleasant little dinner on deck, in a small tent made
of flags, at half-past five. We passed Yarmouth at about
a quarter to six very flat and looking, Albert said, like
a Flemish town. We walked up and down on deck,
admiring the splendid moonlight, which was reflected so
beautifully on the sea.
We went below at half-past seven, and I read the
fourth and fifth cantos of The Lay of the Last Minstrel
to Albert, and then we played on the piano.
Saturday, September 17.
At three o'clock in the morning we were awakened by
loud guns, which, however, were welcome sounds to us,
as we knew that we were at the Nore, the entrance of the
river. About six we heard the " Rhadamanthus " had
just passed us, and they said we were lying off Southcnd,
in order to let the " Black Eagle " come up. It was a
very bright day, though a little hazy.
The shipping in the river looked very pretty as we
passed along. At ten minutes past ten we got into the
barge and landed. The Duchess of Norfolk and Miss
Matilda Paget and the equerries were all there, but the
others we knew nothing of. Sir James Clark had been
on board the " Trident " with us. We drove off at once
to the railway terminus, and reached Windsor Castle at
half-past twelve o'clock.
VISIT TO BLAIR ATHOLE.
Monday, September 9, 1844.
We got up at a quarter to six o'clock. We breakfasted.
Mama came to take leave of us ; Alice and the baby *
were brought in, poor little things, to wish us "good-by."
Then good Bertie \ came down to see us, and Vicky {
appeared as " voyageuse," and was all impatience to go.
At seven we set off with her for the railroad, Viscountess
Canning and Lady Caroline Cocks in our carriage. A
very wet morning. We got into the carriage again at Pad-
dington, and proceeded to Woolwich, which we reached at
nine. Vicky was safely put into the boat, and then care-
fully carried on deck of the yacht by Renwick,^" the
sergeant-footman, whom we took with us in the boat on
purpose. Lord Liverpool, Lord Aberdeen, and Sir James
Clark met us on board. Sir Robert Peel was to have
gone with us, but could not, in consequence of his little
girl being very ill.
* Prince Alfred, then only five weeks old.
"T Name by which the Prince of Wales is always called in his
family.
\ Victoria, Princess Royal.
Now Lady C. Courtenay.
^ Now pensioned : promoted to Gentleman Porter in 1854. A
very good servant ; and a native of Galashiels.
( 3 )
Blair Athole, Wednesday, September n.
At six o'clock we inquired and heard that we were in
the port of Dundee. Albert saw our other gentlemen,
who had had a very bad passage. Tuesday night they'
had a dreadful storm. Dundee is a very large place, and
the port is large and open ; the situation of the town is
very fine, but the town itself is not so. The Provost and
people had come on board, and wanted us to land later,
but we got this satisfactorily arranged. At half-past eight
we got into our barge with Vicky, and our ladies and
gentlemen. The sea was bright and blue ; the boat
danced along beautifully. We had about a quarter of a
mile to row.
A staircase, covered with red cloth, was arranged for
us to land upon, and there were a great many people ;
but everything was so well managed that all crowding
Avas avoided, and only the Magistrates were below the
'platform where the people were. Albert walked up the
steps with me, I holding his arm and Vicky his hand,
amidst the loud cheers of the people, all the way to the
carriage, our dear Vicky behaving like a grown-up person
not put out, nor frightened, nor nervous. We got into
our postchaise, and at the same time Renwick took Vicky
up in his arms, and put her in the next carriage with her
governess and nurse.
There was a great crowd in Dundee, but everything
was very well managed, and there would have been no
crowding at all, had not, as usual, about twenty people
begun to run along with the carriage, and thus forced a
number of others to follow. About three miles beyond
Dundee we stopped at the gate of 'Lord Camperdown's
place : here a triumphal arch had been erected, and Lady
Camperdown and Lady Duncan and her little boy, with
others, were all waiting to welcome us, and were very
civil and kind. The little boy, beautifully dressed in the
Highland dress, was carried to Vicky, and gave her a
basket with fruit and flowers. I said to Albert I could
hardly believe that our child was travelling with us
it put me so in mind of myself when I was the " little
Princess." Albert observed that it was always said that
parents lived their lives over again in their children, which
is a very pleasant feeling.
The country from here to Cupar Angus is very well
cultivated, and you see hills in the distance. The harvest
is only now being got in, but is very good ; and every-
thing much greener than in England. Nothing could be
quieter than our journey, and the scenery is so beautiful !
It is very different from England: all the houses built of
stone ; the people so different, sandy hair, high cheek-
bones ; children with long shaggy hair and bare legs and
feet ; little boys in kilts. Near Dunkeld, and also as you
get more into the Highlands, there are prettier faces.
Those jackets which the girls wear are so pretty ; all
the men and women, as well as the children, look very
healthy.
Cupar Angus is a small place a village 14 miles
from Dundee. There you enter Perthshire. We crossed
the river Isla, which made me think of my poor little dog
" Isla." For about five or six miles we went along a very
pretty but rough cross-road, with the Grampians in the
distance. We saw Birnam Wood and Sir W. Stewart's
place in that fine valley on the opposite side of the river,
All along such splendid scenery, and Albert enjoyed it so
much rejoicing in the beauties of nature, the sight of
mountains, and the pure air.
The peeps of Dunkeld, with the river Tay deep in the
bottom, and the view of the bridge and cathedral, sur-
rounded by the high wooded hills, as you approached it,
( 32 )
were lovely in the extreme. We got out at an inn (which
was small, but very clean) at Dunkeld, and stopped to let
Vicky have some broth. Such a charming view from the
window ! Vicky stood and bowed to the people out of
the window. There never was such a good traveller as
she is, sleeping in the carriage at her usual times, not put
out, not frightened at noise or crowds ; but pleased and
amused. She never heard the anchor go at night on
board ship ; but slept as sound as a top.
Shortly after leaving Dunkeld, which is 20 miles from
Blair, and 1 5 from Cupar Angus, we met Lord Glenlyon
in a carriage ; he jumped out and rode with us the whole
way to Blair, and a most beautiful road it is. Six miles
on, in the woods to the left, we could see Kinnaird House,
where the late Lady Glenlyon (Lord Glenlyon's mother,
who died about two or three months ago) used to live.
Then we passed the point of Logierait, where there are
the remains of an ancient castle, the old Regality Court
of the Dukes of Athole. At Moulinearn we tasted some
of the " Athole brose," which was brought to the carriage.
We passed Pitlochrie, a small village, Faskally, a very
pretty place of Mr. Butter's, to the left, and then came to
the Pass of Killiecrankie, which is quite magnificent ; the
road winds along it, and you look down a great height,
all wooded on both sides; the Garry rolling below it. I
cannot describe how beautiful it is. Albert was in
perfect ecstasies. Lude, Mr. Me Inroy's, to the right, is
very pretty. Blair Athole is only four or five miles from
the Killiecrankie Pass. Lord Glenlyon has had a new
approach made. The house is a large plain white
building, surrounded by high hills, which one can see
from the windows. Lord and Lady Glenlyon, with their
little boy, received us at the door, and showed us to our
rooms, and then left us.
( 33 )
Blair Castle, Blair Athole,
Thursday, September 12.
We took a delightful walk of two hours. Immediately
near the house the scenery is very wild, which is most
enjoyable. The moment you step out of the house you
see those splendid hills all round. We went to the left
through some neglected pleasure-grounds, and then through
the wood, along a steep winding path overhanging the
rapid stream. These Scotch streams, full of stones, and
clear as glass, are most beautiful ; the peeps between the
trees, the depth of the shadows, the mossy stones, mixed
with slate, &c., which cover the banks, are lovely ; at
every turn you have a picture. We were up high, but
could not get to the top ; Albert in such delight ; it is a
happiness to see him, he is in such spirits. We came
back by a higher drive, and then went to the Factor's house,
still higher up, where Lord and Lady Glenlyon are living,
having given Blair up to us. We walked on, to a corn-
field where a number of women were cutting and reaping
the oats (" shearing" as they call it in Scotland}, with a
splendid view of the hills before us, so rural and romantic,
so unlike our daily Windsor walk (delightful as that is) ;
and this change does such good : as Albert observes, it
refreshes one for a long time. We then went into the
kitchen-garden, and to a walk from which there is a
magnificent view. This mixture of great wildness and
art is perfection.
At a little before four o'clock Albert drove me out in
the pony phaeton till nearly six such a drive ! Really
to be able to sit in one's pony carriage, and to see such
wild, beautiful scenery as we did, the farthest point being
only five miles from the house, is an immense delight.
We drove along Glen Tilt, through a wood overhanging
the river Tilt, which joins the Garry, and as we left the
3
( 34 )
wood we came upon such a lovely view Ben-y-Ghlo
straight before us and under these high hills the river
Tilt gushing and winding over stones and slates, and the
hills and mountains skirted at the bottom with beautiful
trees ; the whole lit up by the sun ; and the air so pure
and fine ; but no description can at all do it justice, or
give an idea of what this drive was.
Oh ! what can equal the beauties of nature ! What
enjoyment there is in them ! Albert enjoys it so much ;
he is in ecstasies here. He has inherited this love for
nature from his dear father.
We went as far as the Marble Lodge, a keeper's cottage,
and came back the same way.
Monday, September 16.
After our luncheon at half-past three, Albert drove me
(Lord Glenlyon riding with us) to the falls of the Bruar.
We got out at the road, and walked to the upper falls,
and down again by the path on the opposite side. It is
a walk of three miles round, and a very steep ascent ; at
every turn the view of the rushing falls is extremely fine,
and looking back on the hills, which were so clear and so
beautifully lit up, with the rapid stream below, was most
exquisite. We threw stones down to see the effect in the
water. The trees which surround the falls were planted
by the late Duke of Athole in compliance with Burns's
. " Petition?*
The evening was beautiful, and we feasted our eyes on
the ever-changing, splendid views of the hills and vales
as we drove back. Albert said that the chief beauty of
mountain scenery consisted in its frequent changes. We
came home at six o'clock.
* The Humble Petition of Bruar Water to the Noble Duke of
Athole.
( 35 )
Tuesday, September 17.
At a quarter to four o'clock we drove out, Albert
driving me, and the ladies and Lord Glenlyon following
in another carriage. We drove to the Pass of Killie-
crankie, which looked in its greatest beauty and splendour,
and appeared quite closed, so that one could not imagine
how one was to get out of it. We drove over a bridge to
the right, where the view of the pass both ways, with the
Garry below, is beautiful. We got out a little way
beyond this and walked on a mile to the Falls of the
Tummel, the stream of which is famous for salmon;
these falls, however, are not so fine, or nearly so high, as
those of the Bruar. We got home at half-past six ; the
day was fast fading, and the lights were lovely.
We watched two stags fighting just under our window ;
they are in an enclosure, and roar incessantly.
Wednesday, September 18.
At nine o'clock we set off on ponies, to go up one of
the hills, Albert riding the dun pony and I the grey,
attended only by Lord Glenlyon's excellent servant,
Sandy McAra, in his Highland dress. We went out by
the back way across the road, and to the left through the
ford, Sandy leading my pony and Albert following closely,
the water reaching up above Sandy's knees. We then
went up the hill of Tulloch, first straight up a very steep
cabbage-field, and then in a zigzag manner round, till we
got up to the top ; the ponies scrambling up over stones
and everything, and never making a false step ; and the
view all round being splendid and most beautifully lit up.
We went up to the very highest top, which cannot be seen
from the house or from below ; and from here the view
is like a panorama : you see the Falls of the Bruar,
Ben-y-Chat, Ben Vrackie, Ben-y-Ghlo, the Killiecrankie
Pass, and a whole range of distant hills on the other
side, which one cannot at all see from below. In the
direction of Taymouth you also see Dalnacardoch, the
first stage from Blair. Blair itself and the houses in the
village looked like little toys from the great height we
were on. It was quite romantic. Here we were with
only this Highlander behind us holding the ponies (for
we got off twice and walked about) not a house, not a
creature near us, but the pretty Highland sheep, with
their horns and black faces, up at the top of Tulloch,
surrounded by beautiful mountains.
We came back the same way that we went, and stopped
at the ford to let the ponies drink before we rode through.
We walked from inside the gate, and came home at half-
past eleven, the most delightful, most romantic ride and
walk I ever had. I had never been up such a mountain,
and then the day was so fine. The hill of Tulloch is
covered with grass, and is so delightfully soft to walk
upon.
Thursday, September 19.
Albert set off, immediately after luncheon, deer-stalking,
and I was to follow and wait below in order to see the
deer driven down. At four o'clock I set off with Lady
Glenlyon and Lady Canning, Mr. Oswald and Lord
Charles Wellesley riding, by the lower Glen Tilt drive.
We stopped at the end ; but were still in the wood ;
Sandy was looking out and watching. After waiting we
were allowed to come out of the carriage, and came upon
the road, where we saw some deer on the brow of the
hill. We sat down on the ground, Lady Canning and I
sketching, and Sandy and Mr. Oswald, both in Highland
costume, (the same that they all wear here, viz. a grey
cloth jacket and waistcoat, with a kilt and a Highland
( 37 )
bonnet,) lying on the grass and looking through glasses.
After waiting again some time, we were told in a mys-
terious whisper that " they were coming," and indeed a
great herd did appear on the brow of the hill, and came
running down a good way, when most provokingly two
men who were walking on the road which they had no
business to have done suddenly came in sight, and then
the herd all ran back again and the sport was spoilt.
After waiting some little while we observed Albert, Lord
Glenlyon, and the keepers on the brow of the hill, and
we got into the carriage, drove a little way, went over the
bridge, where there is a shepherd's " shiel," and got out
and waited for them to join us, which they did almost
immediately, looking very picturesque with their rifles.
My poor Albert had not even fired one shot for fear of
spoiling the whole thing, but had been running about a
good deal. The group of keepers and dogs was very
pretty. After talking and waiting a little while, we walked
some way on, and then Albert drove home with us.
Saturday, September 21.
After breakfast Albert saw Lord Glenlyon, who pro-
posed that he should go deer-stalking and that I should
follow him. At twenty minutes to eleven we drove off
with Lady Canning for Glen Tilt. The day was glorious
and it would have been a pity to lose it, but it was a long
hard day's work, though extremely delightful and enjoy-
able, and unlike anything I had ever done before. I
should have enjoyed it still more had I been able to be
with Albert the whole time.
We drove nearly to Peter Fraser's house, which is
between the Marble Lodge and Forest Lodge. Here Albert
and I walked about a little, and then Lady Canning and
we mounted our ponies and set off on our journey, Lord
( 38 )
Glenlyon leading my pony the whole way, Peter Fraser,
the head-keeper (a wonderfully active man) leading the
way ; Sandy and six other Highlanders carrying rifles and
leading dogs, and the rear brought up by two ponies with
our luncheon-box. Lawley,* Albert's Jager, was also
there, carrying one of Albert's rifles ; the other Albert
slung over his right shoulder, to relieve Lawley. So we
set off and wound round and round the hill, which had
the most picturesque effect imaginable. Such a splendid
view all round, finer and more extensive the higher we
went! The day was delightful; but the sun very hot.
We saw the highest point of Ben-y-Ghlo, which one can-
not see from below, and the distant range of hills we had
seen from Tulloch was beautifully softened by the slightest
haze. We saw Loch Vach. The road was very good, and
as we ascended we had to speak in a whisper, as indeed
we did almost all day, for fear of coming upon deer
unawares. The wind was, however, right, which is every-
thing here for the deer. I wish we could have had
Landseer with us to sketch our party, with the back-
ground, it was so pretty, as were also the various
" halts," c. If I only had had time to sketch them !
We stopped at the top of the Ghrianan, whence you
look down an immense height. It is here that the eagles
sometimes sit. Albert got off and looked about in great
admiration, and walked on a little, and then remounted
his pony. We then went nearly to the top of Cairn
Chlamain, and here we separated, Albert going off with
Peter, Lawley, and two other keepers, to get a " quiet
shot " as they call it ; and Lady Canning, Lord Glenlyon,
and I went up quite to the top, which is deep in moss.
* A very good man. His health obliged him to give up being a
Jager in 1848 ; he was then appointed a Page, in which position he
continued till he died, in November, 1865.
( 39 )
Here we sat down, and stayed some time sketching the
ponies below ; Lord Glenlyon and Sandy remaining near
us. The view was quite beautiful, nothing but mountains
all around us, and the solitude, the complete solitude,
very impressive. We saw the range of Mar Forest, and
the inner range to the left, receding from us, as we sat
ficing the hill, called Scarsach, where the counties of
Perth, Aberdeen, and Inverness join. My pony was
brought up for me, and we then descended this highest
pinnacle, and proceeded on a level to meet Albert, whom
I descried coming towards us. We met him shortly after ;
he had had bad luck, I am sorry to say. We then sat
dcwn on the grass and had some luncheon; then I
walked a little with Albert and we got on our ponies. As
we went on towards home some deer were seen in Glen
Chroine, which is called the "Sanctum ;" where it is sup-
posed that there are a great many. Albert went off soon
after this, and we remained on Sron a Chro, for an hour, I
am sure, as Lord Glenlyon said by so doing we should turn
the deer to Albert, whereas if we went on we should
disturb and spoil the whole thing. So we submitted.
Albert looked like a little speck creeping about on an
opposite hill. We saw four herds of deer, two of them
close to us. It was a beautiful sight.
Meanwhile I saw the sun sinking gradually, and I got
quite alarmed lest we should be benighted, and we called
anxiously for Sandy, who had gone away for a moment,
to give a signal to come back. We then began our
descent, " squinting " the hill, the ponies going as safely
and securely as possible. As the sun went down the
scenery became more and more beautiful, the sky crimson,
golden-red and blue, and the hills looking purple and
lilac, most exquisite, till at length it set, and the hues
grew softer in the sky and the outlines of the hills sharper.
( 40 )
I never saw anything so fine. It soon, however, grew
very dark.
At length Albert met us, and he told me he had waited
all the time for us, as he knew. how anxious I should be.
He had been very unlucky, and had lost his sport, for the;
rifle would not go off just when he could have shot some
tine harts ; yet he was as merry and cheerful as if nothing
had happened to disappoint him. We got down quitp
safely to the bridge ; our ponies going most surely, though
it was quite dusk when we were at the bottom of the hill.
We walked to the Marble Lodge, and then got into tie
pony carriage and drove home by very bright rnoonligit,
which made everything look very lovely; but the roM
made one a little nervous.
We saw a flight of ptarmigan, with their white wings,
on the top of Sron a Chro, also plovers, grouse, and
pheasants. We were safely home by a quarter to eight.
Tuesday, October i.
At a quarter-past eight o'clock we started, and were
very very sorry to leave Blair and the dear Highlands I
Every little trifle and every spot I had become attached
to ; our life of quiet and liberty, everything was so pleasant,
and all the Highlanders and people who went with us I
had got to like so much. Oh ! the dear hills, it made me
very sad to leave them behind !
Lord Glenlyon rode with us, and we went back exactly
the same road we came ; through Killiecrankie, Pitlochrie,
saw Logierait, &c. The battle of Killiecrankie was fought
in a field to your left, as you come from Blair and before
you come to the pass ; and Lord Dundee was shot in a
garden immediately above the field at Urrard (formerly
called Rinrory) which belongs to Mr. Stewart of Urrard;
the Stewarts of Urrard used formerly to live on Craig
Urrard. We reached Dunkcld at half-past eleven. Mr.
Oswald and Mr. Patrick Small Keir, with a detachment of
Highlanders, were there. We drove up to the door of
the cottage at Dunkeld and got out there. It is beautifully
situated and the cottage is very pretty, with a good view
of the river from the windows. Craig-y-Barns is a fine
rocky hill to the left as you drive from Blair.
We walked to look at the beginning of the new house
which the late Duke of Athole commenced, but which has
been left unfinished, and also at a beautiful larch-tree,
the first that was brought to Scotland. I rode back on
" Arghait Bhean " * for the last time, and took a sad leave
of him and of faithful Sandy McAra. We walked into
the ruins of the old cathedral and into that part which the
late Duke fitted up for service, and where there is a fine
monument of him. I should never have recognized the
grounds of Dunkeld, so different did they look without
the encampment.f Beautiful as Dunkeld is, it does not
approach the beauty and wildness of Blair.
After twelve o'clock we set off again, and to our astonish-
ment Lord Glenlyon insisted upon riding on with us to
Dundee, which is 50 miles from Blair! Captain J.
Murray also rode with us from Dunkeld. It made me
feel sad to see the country becoming flatter and flatter.
There was a great crowd at Cupar Angus, and at Dundee
a still larger one, and on the pier the crush was very great.
We took leave of Lord Glenlyon with real regret, and
he seemed quite unhappy at our going. No one could be
more zealous or kinder than he was.
There was a fearful swell when we went in the barge to
the yacht.
* This pony was given to me by the Duke of Athole in 1847, and
is now alive at Osborne.
t Vide page 14.
( 42 )
Thursday, October 3.
The English coast appeared terribly flat Lord Aberdeen
was quite touched when I told him I was so attached to
the dear, dear Highlands and missed the fine hills so much.
There is a great peculiarity about the Highlands and
Highlanders ; and they are such a chivalrous, fine, active
people. Our stay among them was so delightful. Inde-
pendently of the beautiful scenery, there was a quiet, a
retirement, a wildness, a liberty, and a solitude that had
such a charm for us.
The day had cleared up and was bright, but the air
very heavy and thick, quite different from the mountain
air, which was so pure, light, and brisk. At two o'clock
we reached Woolwich, and shortly after disembarked. We
proceeded straight to the railroad, and arrived at Windsor
Castle at a few minutes past four.
( 43 )
TOUR ROUND THE WEST COAST OF SCOTLAND,
AND VISIT TO ARDVERIKIE.
Wednesday, August n, 1847.
We proceeded from the Osborne Pier on board the
yacht. Our two eldest children, my brother Charles,
the Duke and Duchess of Norfolk, Lord Grey (Secretary
of State), Lady Jocelyn, General Wemyss, Sir James
Clark, and Miss Hildyard, accompanied us.
We have with us the following steamers : The
" Black Eagle," "Garland," "Undine," "Fairy," and
" Scourge " (war-steamers). The two equerries are on
board the " Black Eagle."
We were soon under weigh, and as Osborne vanished
from our sight, I thought of our poor children left
behind.
On Board the Victoria and Albert,
in Dartmouth Harbour,
Thursday, August 12.
I have not much to relate. Our voyage has not been
what we intended, mats Vhomme propose et Dieu dispose;
for instead of being at Falmouth we are only at Dart-
mouth ! We started at five o'clock, and soon after felt
the vessel stop, and on inquiring, heard that the fog was
so thick it was impossible to proceed. At last Captain
Smithett was sent out in the " Garland " to report on the
( 44 )
state of the weather; and he soon returned, saying that
all was clear enough to proceed outside The Needles (we
were in Alum Bay). So we started again, and, after
breakfast, we came on deck, where I remained working
and talking ; feeling quite well ; but towards one o'clock
the ground swell had increased, and we decided to run
into the harbour we now are in.
On Board the Victoria and Albert,
Milford Haven, South Wales,
Saturday, August 14.
Arrived here this afternoon at five. I will give an
account of what has passed since leaving Dartmouth.
Thursday evening, after dining with Charles, we went on
deck, and found the whole town illuminated, and the
effect of its curious high houses running down quite into
the still sea, which reflected the illumination, was lovely,
the night being so fine and calm.
Friday, August 13.
We started at four and reached the Sally Islands at
three in the afternoon it had been very rough. The
numerous little rocky islands, in the midst of which we
are lying, are very curious.
St. Mary's, the principal island, has a little town, a
church, and a small harbour. Exactly opposite, on the
isle of Tresco, is Mr. Smith's house ; he has the lease of
all the islands from the Duchy of Cornwall. Farther to
( 45 )
the left is /. Agnes, with a lighthouse and innumerable
rocks.
Albert (who, as well as Charles, has not been unwell,
while I suffered very much) went with Charles and Bertie
to see one of the islands. The children recover from
their sea-sickness directly. When Albert and the others
returned, soon after five, we went with our ladies and
gentlemen in the barge across the harbour, where, blue
as the sea was, it was still rather rough, and landed at
a little pier at St. Mary's. The harbour, surmounted by
the old fort of the Star Castle, reminded me of the
harbour of St. Hdiers. We got into a pony carriage
belonging to Mr. Smith, with Charles and Lady Jocelyn,
and drove through the place, which looks like a small
fishing town, and then round the fortifications of the
castle, where there is a very pretty walk overhanging the
sea ; the rock being covered with fern, and' heath, and
furze. The extensive view of the islands and rocks around
is very beautiful. The town is built upon a very narrow
strip of land, with a small bay on either side. We got
out at the old castle, which bears the date of one of
the Edwards. The view from the battlements is very
fine. We returned the same way we went, a little before
seven.
Saturday, August 14.
We started at five o'clock, and the yacht then began
to roll and pitch dreadfully, and I felt again very unwell ;
but I came on deck at three in the afternoon, the sea
then was like glass, and we were close to the Welsh
coast.
This harbour, Milford Haven, is magnificent ; the
largest we have ; a fleet might lie here. We are anchored
just off Milford. Pembroke in front, in the distance.
( 46 )
The cliffs, which are reddish brown, are not very high.
Albert and Charles went in the
"Fairy" to Pembroke, and. I
sketched. Numbers of boats came
out, with Welshwomen in their
curious high-crowned men's hats;
and Bertie was much cheered, for
the people seemed greatly pleased
to see the " Prince of Wales."
Albert returned at a quarter to
eight.
A very pretty dairymaid, in complete Welsh costume,
was brought on board for me to see. We found Milford
illuminated when we went on deck, and bonfires burning
everywhere.
Sunday, August 15.
We started again at four o'clock, but this time had a
beautiful day, with the sea smooth the whole way. About
eleven we saw the mountainous coast of Caernarvonshire;
the hills, which are in fact high mountains, are bold and
finely shaped, and, Albert said, reminded him much of
Ischia, with the beautiful deep blue sea and bright sky.
Having arrived at the entrance of the Menai Straits,
we all left the " Victoria and Albert," and went on board
the "Fairy." The "Victoria and Albert" with the
" Black Eagle " (the two equerries having joined us), the
" Undine " and " Scourge," proceeded round the Isle of
Anylcsea by Holyhead, and, in the " Fairy," accompanied
by the "Garland," we went into the Straits. As we
entered, the view of the fine mountains with their rich
verdure Snowdon rising splendidly in the midst and of
the fields and woods below, was really glorious. To the
left the country is extremely flat. Then Caernarvon came
( 47 )
in sight, with its grand old Castle so finely situated.
We stopped for a few moments off here, but did not
land. The mountains disappeared for a while, and then
re-appeared more beautiful than ever. We passed close
to Plas Newydd, where we had spent six weeks fifteen
years ago. I felt as if I remembered it all very well ;
but admired the scenery even more than I had expected
from my previous recollection.
We passed the famous Swilly Rocks, and saw the
works they are making for the tube for the railroad, and
then went under the Menai Bridge and stopped imme-
diately on the other side. There were crowds of loyal
people in steamers and boats, playing " God save the
Queen," and cheering tremendously. Albert and Charles
landed and walked over the bridge. When they returned
we went on again, and stopped in a most beautiful spot,
with almost Swiss scenery, opposite Penrhyn Castle,
Colonel Douglas Pennant's (which I saw in the late pos-
sessor's time unfinished), and near Bangor, with its wooded
banks, through which one can see the high-road to Bcau-
maris. The purple hills, with the verdure below, and the
blue sea, were extremely picturesque.
Albert and Charles went to see Penrhyn. As soon
as they returned we dined below in the " Fairy," and at
eight we returned, with the children and all our people,
to the " Victoria and Albert." The evening was beautiful
and the day very successful.
Monday ', August 16.
We woke soon after four o'clock, when getting under
weigh, and were surprised to feel the yacht stop not an
hour after. Something had gone wrong with the paddle-
wheel just as happened last year and it took full two
hours to set it right. Then at seven we started afresh.
( 43 )
A beautiful morning with a very smooth sea. By half-
past ten we were in sight of the Isle of Man, which is a
fine island with bold hills and cliffs. A little before
twelve we reached the point of the bay, on which is the
town of Douglas, very prettily situated, with a picturesque
castle near the lighthouse, on the extreme point of the
bay. We stopped off here for ten minutes or a quarter
of an hour, the rocks were covered with people. From
Douglas to Ramsay Bay the hills and cliffs are high and
bold ; though Ramsay itself is low.
For about two hours we were out of sight of land,
and I was below writing. When I came on deck at three
o'clock the Scotch coast was quite close; the Mull of
Galloway, and then Wigtownshire. Albert declared he saw
the Irish coast, but I could not descry it. At five we
came in sight of Loch Ryan, and saw, to the left, Ailsa
Craig rising more than 1,000 feet perpendicularly from
the sea. Loch Ryan is very fine, and the hills and glens
are lovely, particularly little Glen Finnart. The loch is
very large, and the hills here are very high and wooded.
The little town is called Stranraer.
Tuesday, August 17.
At six o'clock we began to move. A beautiful morning.
At about eight we were close to the Ailsa Rock or Craig,
the formation of which is very curious. There were
thousands and thousands of birds, gannets, on the
rock, and we fired a gun off three times in order to bring
them in reach of a shot Albert and Charles tried, but
in vain. We next came in sight of the beautiful Isle of
Arran. The finest point is when you are before the
Holy Island, and in sight of the Goatfell range of moun-
tains. The highest is about 2,800 feet ; they are pecu-
liarly fine from their bold pointed outlines. Before them
( 49 )
is Lamlash. After passing Holy Island we came to
Brodick Bay, which is beautiful, with high hills and a
glen ; in front of which, and surrounded by wood, is the
castle which Lord Douglas is building. Not long after
this we came in sight of the Isle of Bute, and entered the
Clyde, the view of which from Mr. Stuart's and Lord
Bute's property is beautiful : high wooded banks, the river
opening out and widening, surrounded by the distant
mountains. A small place to the right called Largs is
very prettily situated.
At half-past twelve we reached Gremock, the port of
Glasgow. The shore and the ships were crowded with
people, there being no less (as I since learnt) than thirty-
nine steamers, over-filled with people, which almost all
followed us ! Such a thing never was seen. Add to
these steamers boats and ships of all descriptions, moving
in all directions ; but not getting out of the way ! We,
however, got safe on board the " Fairy," and steamed up
the Clyde ; it was hazy, and we could not see the distance
well. We passed the small town of Port Glasgow, and
about one o'clock were at Dumbarton Castle. Its situa-
tion is very fine, the rock rising straight out of the river,
the mountains all round, and the town of Dumbarton
behind it, making it very picturesque. We landed just
below the Castle, and went with Charles and the children
in a carriage to the fort. There was a great crowd, but
excellent order kept. We went to the battery, but had
to mount many steps to get to it. Wallace was confined
here ; and it was one of the last castles which held out
for Mary Queen of Scots. From the battery there is a
very extensive view of the Clyde and Dumbarton, and we
ought to have been able to see Ben Lomond; but it was
in mist.
We got back to the " Fairy " by half-past two, and
4
( 50 )
returned to Greenock, escorted by nineteen steamers.
Steamed pasj; Greenock, and went on towards Loch Long,
passing Roseneath to the right, where the present Duke
and Duchess of Argyll live. Loch Long is indeed
splendid, 15 miles in length, surrounded by grand hills,
with such beautiful outlines, and very green all so
different from the eastern part of Scotland the loch
winding along most beautifully, so as to seem closed at
times. Charles said it reminded him of Switzerland
and the Tyrol. The finest point of Loch Long is looking
towards Loch Goil. We had a very good sight of the
mountain called The Cobbler; the top of which resembles
a man sitting and mending his shoe ! At the end of
the loch we got a glimpse of Ben Lomond, and were, in
fact, very near Loch Lomond.
We returned as we came. There was no sun, and
once or twice a little mist ; but still it was beautiful.
We went on to Rothsay, which we reached at eight
o'clock, and immediately went on board the " Victoria
and Albert," greatly tired but much amused and in-
terested.
The children enjoy everything extremely, and bear
the novelty and excitement wonderfully. The people
cheered the " Duke of Rothsay " * very much, and also
called for a cheer for the "Princess of Great Britain."
Everywhere the good Highlanders are very enthusiastic.
Rothsay is a pretty little, town, built round a fine bay,
with hills in the distance, and a fine harbour. When we
went on deck after dinner, we found the whole town
brilliantly illuminated, with eveiy window lit up, which
had a very pretty effect.
* A title belonging to the eldest son of the Sovereign of Scotland,
and therefore held by the Prince of Wales as eldest son of the
Queen, the representative of the ancient Kings of Scotland.
Wednesday, August 18.
A bright fresh morning, the hills slightly tipped with
clouds. At eight o'clock we all went on board the
" Fairy," and went up the Kyles of Bute, which, as you
advance, become very fine, the hills lying so curiously
one behind the other, sometimes apparently closing up
all outlet.
We saw Arran to the left, looking very grand in the
distance. We have been turning about a good deal
since yesterday, for we went by Arran and Holy Island,
and then left Little and Great Cumbray to our left, and
went up to Dumbarton and back, and on to Loch Long,
and then to Rothsay, leaving Arran to our left; then,
after passing Arran, we entered Loch Fyne. I, however,
had a headache, and was obliged to lie down below,
and only came on deck again when we were within an
hour of Inverary ; where the lake widens, and the hills
on either side are very green and undulating, but not
very high.
The approach to Inverary is splendid; the loch is
very wide ; straight before you a fine range of mountains
splendidly lit up, green, pink, and lilac ; to the left the
little town of Inverary ; and above it, surrounded by
pine woods, stands the Castle of Inverary, square, with
turrets at the corners.
Our reception was in the true Highland fashion.
The Duke and Duchess of Argyll (dear Lady Elizabeth
Leveson Gower), the Duchess of Sutherland, Lord
Stafford, Lady Caroline Leveson Gower, and the Blan-
tyres received us at the landing-place, which was all
ornamented with heather. The Celtic Society, including
Campbell of Islay, his two sons (one grown up and the
other a very pretty little boy), with a number of his men,
and several other Campbells, were all drawn up near
to the carriage. We got into a carriage with the two
Duchesses, Charles and the Duke being on the box (we
had left the children on board the " Fairy "), and took a
beautiful drive amongst magnificent trees, and along a
glen where we saw Ben Sheerar, &c. The weather was
particularly fine, and we were much struck by the
extreme beauty of Inverary presenting as it does such
a combination of magnificent timber, with high moun-
tains, and a noble lake.
The pipers walked before the carriage, and the High-
landers on either side, as we approached the house.
Outside stood the Marquis of Lorn, just two years old, a
dear, white, fat, fair little fellow with reddish hair, but
very delicate features, like both his father and mother :
he is such a merry, independent little child. He had a
black velvet dress and jacket, with a " sporran," scarf,
and Highland bonnet. We lunched at two with our
hosts; the Highland gentlemen standing with halberds
in the room. We sent for our children, who arrived
during luncheon time. We left Inverary before three,
and took the children with us in the carriage. The
Argylls, the Duchess of Sutherland, and the others,
( 53 )
accompanied us on board the " Fairy," where we took
leave of them.
The light on the hills was beautiful as we steamed
down Loch Fyne. At five we reached Lochgilp, and all
landed at Lochgilphead, a small village where there were
numbers of people, and, amongst others, Sir John
P. Orde, who lent his carriage and was extremely civil.
We and our people drove through the little village to the
Crinan Canal, where we entered a most magnificently
decorated barge, drawn by three horses, ridden by
postilions in scarlet. We glided along very smoothly,
and the views of the hills the range of CruacJian were
very fine indeed; but the eleven locks we had to go
through (a very curious process, first passing several by
rising, and then others by going down) were tedious,
and instead of the passage lasting one hour and a half, it
lasted upwards of two hours and a half, therefore it was
nearly eight o'clock before we reached Loch Crinan. We
instantly went on board the " Victoria and Albert," but
it was too late to proceed to Oban; we had, therefore, to
lengthen our voyage by a day, and spent the night at
Crinan. It is a very fine spot, hills all round, and,
in the distance, those of the island of Jura. The yacht
had had a good passage roumd the Mull of Cantire. We
dined with Charles, and went on deck; and the blaze
of the numerous bonfires the half moon, the stars, and
the extreme stillness of the night had a charming effect.
Thursday, August 19.
A beautiful day. At nine o'clock we left Crinan, pro
ceeding to the right, up splendid passes, with myriads of
islands, and such enchanting views, that I cannot enume-
rate them. We passed first up the Sound of Jura, where
numbers of people met us in small boats, decorated with
little flags; then up the Pass of Kerrera to Oban, one of
the finest spots we have seen, with the ruins of the old
Castle of Dunolly and a range of high mountains in the
distance. To the left, after leaving Oban, we saw the Isle
of Kerrera, and to the right Dtmstqffnage Castle, whence
came the famous stone which supports the " Coronation
Chair," in which the sovereigns are crowned at West-
minster Abbey. Alexander II. is said to be buried here.
We passed close by the flat rock, called The Lady's Rock,
on which a McLean left his wife, hoping she would be
washed away she was saved however.
We then came into the Sound of 'Mull 'by Tobermory,
a small place prettily situated, and from thence the views
continued beautiful. At one o'clock we were in sight of
the Isles of Rum, Eig and Muck (rather large islands,
which Lord Salisbury bought a few years ago). Next we
passed the long, flat, curious islands of Coll and Tiree.
The inhabitants of these islands have, unhappily, been
terrible sufferers during the last winter from famine. A
little further on we saw, to our right, the Treshinish Isles,
very curiously-shaped rocks : one is called The Dutch-
man's Cap, and has the most strange shape, thus
At three we anchored close before Staffa, and imme-
diately got into the barge with Charles, the children, and
the rest of our people, and rowed towards the cave. As
we rounded the point, the wonderful basaltic formation
came in sight. The appearance it presents is most
extraordinary; and when we turned the corner to go
( 55 )
into the renowned 2*ingal's Cave, the effect was splendid,
like a great entrance into a vaulted hall : it looked
almost awful as we entered, and the barge heaved up
and down on the swell of the sea. It is very high, but
not longer than 227 feet, and narrower than I expected,
being only 40 feet wide. The sea is immensely deep in
the cave. The rocks, under water, were all colours
pink, blue, and green which had a most beautiful and
varied effect. It was the first time the British standard
with, a Queen of Great Britain, and her husband and
children, had ever entered FingaTs Cave, and the
men gave three cheers, which sounded very impressive
there. We backed out, and then went on a little further
to look at the other cave, not of basaltic formation, and
at the point called The Herdsman. The swell was
beginning to get up, and perhaps an hour later we could
not have gone in.
We returned to the yacht, but Albert and Charles
landed again at Staffa. They returned in three-quarters
of an hour, and we then went on to lona; here Albert
and Charles landed, and were absent an hour. I and
the ladies sketched. We saw from the yacht the ruins
of the old cathedral of St. Oran. When Albert and
Charles returned, they said the ruins were very curious,
there had been two monasteries there, and fine old
crosses and tombs of ancient kings were still to be seen.
I must see it some other time. On Albert's return we
went on again, and reached Tobermory at nine. The
place was all illuminated.
Friday, August 20.
A wet morning when we rose at half-past seven, and it
was pouring with rain when we left Tobermory at half-
past eight. 1 went down, and drew and painted. It
cleared up about half-past ten, and I came on deck.
The scenery in Loch Linnhe was magnificent such
beautiful mountains. From Loch Linnhe we entered
Loch EH, and passed the entrance of Loch Leven to the-
right, at the end of which is Glencoe, so famous for its
beautiful scenery and for the horrible massacre of the
Macdonalds, in William III.'s time.
A little before one we arrived at Fort William, a very
small place. The afternoon was very bright, and the
scenery fine. After luncheon Albert and Charles set off
in the " Fairy " to see Glencoe. They returned at twenty
minutes past seven, and Albert thought Glencoe was very
fine, though not quite as much so as he had expected.
They had driven in an extraordinary carriage, with seats
for thirty. The people, who recognized Albert, were so
loyal that they took the horses out and insisted on
drawing the carriage.
The evening was excessively cold and showery.
I am quite sorry we shall have to leave our yacht
to-morrow, in which we have been so comfortably
housed, and that this delightful voyage and tour among
the Western Lochs and Isles is at an end they are
so beautiful, and . so full of poetry and romance,
traditions, and historical associations.
Ardverikie, Loch Laggafi, Saturday, August 21.
Alas ! a very wet morning. We were ready long before
nine o'clock, but had to wait, as our carriages were not
ready. At last we all landed at Fort William, where
there was a great gathering of Highlanders, in their
different tartans, with Lord Lovat and Mr. Stuart
Mackenzie at their head. We got into our carriage with
Charles and the two children ; there was a great crowd
to see us off. We went by a very wild and lonely
( 57 )
road, the latter part extremely fine, with mountains and
streams that reminded us of Glen Tilt. We changed
horses only once, and came at length in sight of Loch
Laggan. It is a beautiful lake (small in comparison to
what we have seen) surrounded by very fine mountains :
the road by its side is extremely pretty. We saw Lord
Abercorn's house of Ardverikie long before we came to
it. At Laggan there is only a small inn, and at the end
of the lake, a ferry. Here, in spite of the pouring
rain, were assembled a number of Highlanders, with
Macpherson of Cluny (always called Cluny Macpherson)
and three dear little boys of his, Davidson of Tulloch,
and others, with Lord Abercorn, in full Highland dress.
We stepped out of our carriage and stood upon the
floating bridge, and so crossed over in two or three
minutes. We then drove on, in our pony carriages, to
Ardverikie, and arrived there in about twenty minutes.
It is quite close to the lake, and the view from the
windows, as I now write, though obscured by rain, is
very beautiful, and extremely wild. There is not a
village, house, or cottage within four or five miles : one
can only get to it by the ferry, or by rowing across the
lake. The house is a comfortable shooting-lodge, built
of stone, with many nice rooms in it. Stags' horns are
placed along the outside and in the passages ; and the
walls of the drawing-room and ante-room are ornamented
with beautiful drawings of stags, by Landseer.
There is little to say of our stay at Ardverikie; the
country is very fine, but the weather was most dreadful.
On the 28th, about five o'clock, Albert drove me out
across the ferry, along the Kingussie road, and from here
the scenery was splendid : high bold hills, with a good
deal of wood ; glens, with the Pattock, and a small water-
fall ; the meadows here and there, with people making
( 58 )
hay, and cottages sprinkled sparingly about, reminded us
much of Thilrlngen. We drove to the small farm, where
Colonel Macpherson now' lives, called Strathmashie, and
back again, 16 miles in all. We were delighted with the
scenery, which is singularly beautiful, wild and romantic,
with so much fine wood about it, which greatly enhances
the beauty of a landscape.
Thursday, September 16.
Albert left at six this morning to go to Inverness and
see the Caledonian Canal.
Friday, September 17.
At two o'clock I left Ardverikie with the children, and
reached Fort William at half-past six, where I had the
happiness of finding Albert on board the yacht. All
had gone oft" well; but the weather had been very
bad. Albert said Dochfour was beautiful; the house
new and very elegant, with a fine garden, and Mr. and
Lady Georgiana Baillie very pleasant people.
Albert had to go to Inverness, and to stay for a ball
that was held there ; and he was everywhere extremely
well received. This morning he saw the Falls of Foyers,
which, he tells me, are very grand indeed ; and of a great
height ; and he says that the Caledonian Canal is a most
remarkable work.
Loch Ryan, Saturday, September 18.
At five o'clock we left Fort William. Rather a fine
morning; but very squally, and the sea rough, even
where we were. When we came on deck, we were close
to the Isle of Jura, which has such a fine, bold outline. We
went on to Loch Crinan, where we got into the barge :
here it was very rough and pouring with rain, so unlike
( 59 )
the beautiful evening when we were here a month ago.
We landed at Crinan. Mr. Malcolm, whose castle is
just opposite, received us there, and we entered the
canal boat at ten. We proceeded more quickly than the
last time ; the people kept running along as before, and
there was a piper at each lock. It rained almost the
whole time. We reached Lochgilphead at twelve, in
pouring rain, and embarked on board the " Black Eagle."
The yacht had again to go round the Mull of Cantire and
meet us at Campbeltown. What a contrast to the weather
we had when we came !
We got under weigh, and proceeded by Kilbrannan
Sound and Arran. We went on deck for a little while,
but were driven below by the rain; later, however, it
was possible to keep on deck. We reached Campbeltown,
a small and not pretty place, at the foot of Cantire, at
twenty minutes to five. About half an hour after we
arrived the yacht came in, with the " Garland," " Fairy,"
and " Scourge," and we immediately went on board.
They had had a very bad passage, and Captain Crispin
said he was very glad that we had not been on board the
" Victoria and Albert." This rather alarmed us for the
next day's voyage, the more so as the evening was squally
and the sky very unpromising. There was a long con-
sultation as to what was to be done, and at last it was
decided that we should start at four in the morning, and
if it were very rough, we should either run into Loch
Ryan, the Mull of Galloway, the Bay of Ramsay r , or into
Douglas in the Isle of Man.
Loch Ryan, Sunday, September 19.
We set off at four o'clock, the yacht rolling consider-
ably ; but it was quite bearable ; however, at seven they
came to shut down the port-holes, expecting a heavy sea,
( 6 )
and Lord Adolphus saw Albert, who had just got up, and
said it would be very rough ; upon which it was decided
to put back a little way, and to go into Loch Ryan ; we
accordingly did so, and anchored there at half-past eight;
such a dreary rainy day one could hardly recognize
what was so fine when we were last in here.
Both now, and the time before when we were in Loch
Ryan, Lord Orkney very civilly sent us game and all
sorts of things.
At twelve o'clock Lord Adolphus read the short sea-
service. We then talked over our voyage, and what
could be done ; the day was very wretched, pouring
with rain and blowing hard. It was at last decided to
start again at three, and get this evening to the Mull of
Galloway, which would only take us three hours, though
it would probably be rough. As soon as we were out of
the loch the yacht began to pitch, and the sea was dread-
fully rough. I was very ill. Albert, however, stood it
perfectly, and the children very tolerably. Presently we
came in sight of the Mull of Galloway, a great rock with
a lighthouse on it ; and this was our last glimpse of dear
Scotland.
Monday, September 20.
At six o'clock we got under weigh, and after consider-
able " rockings," which lasted for nearly two hours, we
were near the Isle of Man, in smooth water, and at half-
past eight anchored in Ramsay Bay.
Albert went on shore, and meantime the Bishop of
Sodor and Man, with others, came on board. Albert
returned at twelve. At one o'clock we started again. We
had to go slowly at first, as our paddle-wheel again got
wrong, and because we should otherwise have arrived
before we were expected.
We anchored at seven in Fleetwood Harbour; the
entrance was extremely narrow and difficult. We were
lashed close to the pier, to prevent our being turned by
the tide ; and when I went on deck there was a great
commotion, such running and calling, and pulling of
ropes, &c. It was a cheerless evening, blowing hard.
Tuesday, September 21.
At ten o'clock we landed, and proceeded by rail to
London.
LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS,
1848 TO 1861.
Land of brown heath and shaggy wood,
Land of the mountain and the flood,
Land of my sires ! what mortal hand
Can e'er untie the filial band
That knits me to thy rugged strand !
Still, as I view each well-known scene,
Think what is now, and what hath been,
Seems as, to me, of all bereft,
Sole friends thy woods and streams are left ;
And thus I love them better still,
Even in extremity of ill.
The Lay of the Last Minstrel.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF BALMORAL.
Balmoral, Friday, September 8, 1848.
We arrived at Balmoral at a quarter to three. It is a
pretty little castle in the old Scottish style. There is a
picturesque tower and garden in front, with a high wooded
hill ; at the back there is wood down to the Dee; and
the hills rise all around.
There is a nice little hall, with a billiard-room ; next to
it is the dining-room. Upstairs (ascending by a good
broad staircase) immediately to the right, and above the
dining-room, is our sitting-room (formerly the drawing-
room), a fine large room next to which is our bed-room,
opening into a little dressing-room which is Albert's.
Opposite, down a few steps, are the children's and Miss
Hildyard's three rooms. The ladies live below, and the
gentlemen upstairs.
We lunched almost immediately, and at half-past four
we walked out, and went up to the top of the wooded
hill opposite our windows, where there is a cairn, and up
which there is a pretty winding path. The view from
here, looking down upon the house, is charming. To
the left you look towards the beautiful hills surrounding
Loch-na-Gar, and to the right, towards Ballater, to the
glen (or valley) along which the Dee winds, with beautiful
wooded hills, which reminded us very much of the
Thuringerwald. It was so calm, and so solitary, it did
5
( 66 )
one good as one gazed around ; and the pure mountain
air was most refreshing. All seemed to breathe freedom
and peace, and to make one forget the world and its sad
turmoils.
The scenery is wild, and yet not desolate ; and every-
thing looks much more prosperous and cultivated than at
Laggan. Then the soil is delightfully dry. We walked
beside the Dee, a beautiful, rapid stream, which is close
behind the house. The view of the hills towards Inver-
cauld is exceedingly fine.
When I came in at half-past six, Albert went out to try
his luck with some stags which lay quite close in the
woods, but he was unsuccessful. They come down of an
evening quite near to the house.
67
FIRST ASCENT OF LOCH-NA-GAR.
Saturday, September 16, 1848.
At half-past nine o'clock Albert and I set off in a post-
chaise, and drove to the bridge in the wood of Balloch
Buie, about five miles from Balmoral, where our ponies
and people were. Here we mounted, and were attended
by a keeper of Mr. Farquharson's as guide, Macdonald *
who, with his shooting-jacket, and in his kilt, looked a
picture Grant f on a pony, with our luncheon in two
* A Jager of the Prince's, who came from Fort Augustus in the
west : he was remarkably tall and handsome. The poor man died
of consumption at Windsor, in May, 1860. His eldest son was
Attache to the British Legation in Japan. He died in 1 866. The
third son, Archie, is Jager to the Prince of Wales, and was for a
year with the beloved Prince.
t Head-keeper. He had been nearly twenty years with Sir
Robert Gordon, nine as keeper ; he was born in Braemar, in the year
1810. He is an excellent man, most trustworthy, of singular shrewd-
ness and discretion, and most devotedly attached to the Prince and
myself. He has a fine intelligent countenance. The Prince was
very fond of him. He has six sons, the second, Alick, is wardrobe-
man to our son Leopold : all are good, well-disposed lads, and
getting on well in their different occupations. His mother, a fine,
hale, old woman of eighty years, " stops " in a small cottage which
the Prince built for her in our village. He, himself, lives in a pretty
Lodge called Croft, a mile from Balmoral, which the Prince built
for him.
( 68 )
baskets, and Batterbury* on another pony. We went
through that beautiful wood for about a mile, and then
turned and began to ascend gradually, the view getting
finer and finer; no road, but not bad ground moss,
heather, and stones. Albert saw some deer when we
had been out about three-quarters of an hour, and ran off
to stalk them, while I rested ; but he arrived just a
minute too late. He waited for me on the other side
of a stony little burn, which I crossed on my pony, after
our faithful Highlanders had moved some stones and
made it easier. We then went on a little way, and I
got off and walked a bit, and afterwards remounted ;
Macdonald leading my pony. The view of Ben-na-
Bhourd, and indeed of all around, was very beautiful ;
but as we rose higher we saw mist over Loch-na-Gar.
Albert left me to go after ptarmigan, and went on with
Grant, while the others remained with me, taking the
greatest care of me. Macdonald is a good honest man,
and was indefatigable, and poor Batterbury was very
anxious also.
I saw ptarmigan get up, and Albert fire he then dis-
appeared from my sight, and I rode on. It became cold
and misty when we were on Loch-na-Gar. In half an
hour, or rather less, Albert rejoined me with two ptar-
migan, having come up by a shorter way. Here it was
quite soft, easy walking, and we looked down on two
small lochs called Na JVian, which were very striking,
being so high up in the hills. Albert was tired, and
remounted his pony; I had also been walking a little
way. The ascent commenced, and with it a very thick
fog, and when we had nearly reached the top of Loch-na-
* A groom (now dead some years) who followed me in his
ordinary dress, with thin boots and gaiters, and seemed anything but
happy. He hardly ever attended me after this.
( 69 )
Gar, the mist drifted in thick clouds so as to hide every-
thing not within one hundred yards of us. Near the
peak (the fine point of the mountain which is seen so
well from above Grant's house) we got off and walked,
and climbed up some steep stones, to a place where we
found a seat in a little nook, and had some luncheon.
It was just two o'clock, so we had taken four hours
going up.
But, alas ! nothing whatever to be seen ; and it was
cold, and wet, and cheerless. At about twenty minutes
after two we set off on our way downwards, the wind
blowing a hurricane, and the mist being like rain, and
everything quite dark with it. Bowman (Mr. Farquhar-
son's keeper) and Macdonald, who preceded us, looked
like ghosts. We walked some way till I was quite
breathless, and remounted my, pony, well wrapped up in
plaids ; and we came down by the same path that Albert
had come up, which is shorter, but steeper ; the pony
went delightfully ; but the mist made me feel cheerless.
Albert kept ahead a little while for ptarmigan, but he
gave it up again. When we had gone on about an hour
and a quarter, or an hour and a half, the fog disappeared
like magic, and all was sunshine below, about one thou-
sand feet from the top I should say. Most provoking !
and yet one felt happy to see sunshine and daylight
again.
The view, as one descends, overlooking Invercauld and
the wood which is called Balloch Buie, is most lovely.
We saw some deer in the wood below. We rode on till
after we passed the burn, and had nearly got to the wood.
We came another way down, by a much rougher path ;
and then, from the road in the wood, we walked up to the
Falls of the Garbhalt, which are beautiful. The rocks
are very grand, and the view from the little bridge, and
( 70 )
also from a seat a little lower down, is extremely pretty.
We found our carriages in the road, and drove home by
six o'clock.
We met Captain Gordon, and then Lord John Russell
and Sir James Clark. They had come to look after us,
and when we got home we found the two ladies at the
door waiting most anxiously for us.
A " DRIVE " IN THE BALLOCH BUIE.
September 18, 1848.
At a quarter-past ten o'clock we set off in a postchaise
with Bertie, and drove beyond the house of Mr. Farquhar-
son's keeper in the Balloch Buie. We then mounted our
ponies, Bertie riding Grant's pony on the deer-saddle, and
being led by a gillie, Grant walking by his side. Mac-
donald and several gillies were with us, and we were
preceded by Bowman and old Arthur Farquharson, a deer-
stalker of Invercauld's. They took us up a beautiful path
winding through the trees and heather in the Balloch Buie;
but when we had got about a mile or more they discovered
deer. A " council of war " was held in a whisper, and we
turned back and went the whole way down again, and
rode along to the keeper's lodge, where we turned up the
glen immediately below Craig Daign, through a beautiful
part of the wood, and went on along the track, till we
came to the foot of the craig, where we all dismounted.
We scrambled up an almost perpendicular place to
where there was a little box, made of hurdles and inter-
woven with branches of fir and heather, about five feet in
height. There we seated ourselves with Bertie, Mac-
donald lying in the heather near us, watching and quite
concealed ; some had gone round to beat, and others
again were at a little distance. We sat quite still, and
sketched a little ; I doing the landscape and some trees,
r~
Albert drawing Macdonald as he lay there. This lasted
for nearly an hour, when Albert fancied he heard a distant
sound, and, in a few minutes, Macdonald whispered that
he saw stags, and that Albert should wait and take a
steady aim. We then heard them coming past. Albert
did not look over the box, but through it, and fired through
the branches, and then again over the box. The deer
retreated ; but Albert felt certain he had hit a stag. He
ran up to the keepers, and at that moment they called
from below that they " had got him," and Albert ran on
to see. I waited for a bit ; but soon scrambled on with
Bertie and Macdonald's help; and Albert joined me
directly, and we all went down and saw a magnificent
stag, " a royal," which had dropped, soon after Albert had
hit him, at one of the men's feet. The sport was success-
ful, and every one was delighted, Macdonald and the
keepers in particular; the former saying, "that it was
her Majesty's coming out that had brought the good luck."
I was supposed to have "a lucky foot," of which the
Highlanders " think a great deal." We walked down to
the place we last came up, got into the carriage, and were
home by half-past two o'clock.
( 73 )
THE FIRST STAY AT ALT-NA-GIUTHASACH.
August 30, 1849.
After writing our letters, we set off on our ponies, with
Miss Dawson,* Macdonald, Grant, Batterbury, and Hamis
Coutts ; Hamis is Gaelic for James, and is pronounced
" Hamish." The road has been improved since last year,
and though it is still very rough, there are no fords to pass,
nor real difficulties any longer. We rode the whole way,
and Albert only walked the last two miles. He took a
Gaelic lesson during our ride, asking Macdonald, who
speaks it with great purity, many words, and making him
talk to Jemmie Coutts. Albert has already picked up
many words : but it is a very difficult language, for it is
pronounced in a totally different way from that in which
it is written.
We arrived at our little " bothie " at two o'clock, and
were amazed at the transformation. There are two huts,
and to the one in which we live a wooden addition has
teen made. We have a charming little dining-room,
sitting-room, bed-room, and dressing-room, all en suite;
and there is a little room where Caroline Dawson (the
Maid of Honour) sleeps, one for her maid, and a little
pantry. In the other house, which is only a few yards
distant, is the kitchen, where the people generally sit, a
* Now Hon. Mrs. Parnell.
( 74 )
small room where the servants dine, and another, which
is a sort of store-room, and a loft above in which the men
sleep. Margaret French (my maid), Caroline's maid,
Lohlein* (Albert's valet), a cook, Shackle f (a footman),
and Macdonald, are the only people with us in the house,
old John Gordon and his wife excepted. Our rooms are
delightfully papered, the ceilings as well as walls, and
very nicely furnished. We lunched as soon as we arrived,
and at three walked down (about twenty minutes' walk)
to the loch called " Muich ; " which some say means
" darkness " or " sorrow." Here we found a large boat,
into which we all got, and Macdonald, Duncan, Grant,
and Coutts rowed; old John Gordon and two others
going in another boat with the net. They rowed up to
the head of the loch, to* where the Muich runs down out
of the Dhu Loch, which is on the other side.
The scenery is beautiful here, so wild and grand,
real severe Highland scenery, with trees in the hollow.
We had various scrambles in and out of the boat and
along the shore, and saw three hawks, and caught seventy
trout. I wish an artist could have been there to sketch
the scene ; it was so picturesque the boat, the net, and
the people in their kilts in the water, and on the shore.
In going back, Albert rowed and Macdonald steered ;
and the lights were beautiful.
We came home at a quarter-past seven. At eight we
dined ; Lohlein, Macdonald, and Shackle waiting on us.
* This faithful and trusty valet nursed his dear master most
devotedly through his sad illness in December, 1861, and is now
always with me as my personal groom of the chambers or valet. I
gave him a house near Windsor Castle, where he resides when the
Court are there. He is a native of Coburg. His father has been
for fifty years Forster at Fulbach, close to Coburg.
f Who was very active and efficient. He is now a Page.
( 75 )
After dinner we played with Caroline Dawson at whist
with dummy, and afterwards walked round the little
garden. The silence and solitude, only interrupted
by the waving of the fir-trees, were very solemn and
striking.
A BEAT IN THE ABERGELDIE WOODS.
September 3, 1849.
At a quarter-past eleven we drove (the three gentle-
men going in another carriage) to the road along which we
went with Lord Portman the other day, and up to a small
path, where I mounted my pony, Albert and the others
walking. We came to Geannachoil, and Albert was much
pleased with the splendid view. The lights were most
beautiful, but the. heat was overpowering, and the sun
burning.
We turned to the right when out on the moors, where
I got off and walked ; and we seated ourselves behind a
large stone, no one but Macdonald with us, who loaded
the guns, and gave notice when anything was to be seen,
as he lay upon the ground. The gentlemen were below
in the road ; the wood was beat, but nothing came, so we
walked on and came down a beautiful thickly-wooded
glen ; and after a good deal of scrambling to get there,
and to get up one side of the glen, we sat down again.
We then scrambled over to the opposite side, where we
again concealed ourselves ; in this beat Albert shot a roe,
and I think would have shot more had they not been
turned back by the sudden appearance of an old woman
who, looking like a witch, came along through the wood
with two immense crutches, and disturbed the whole thing.
Albert killed the roe just as she was coming along, and
( 77 )
the shot startled her very much ; she was told to come
down, which she did, and sat below in the glen, motion-
less, having covered her head with her handkerchief.
When two of the beaters came down and were told to
take up the roe, they first saw the old woman, and started,
and stared with horror which was very amusing to see.
I rode a little way afterwards, and then we seated our-
selves behind a bush, in the rear of the wood, close to the
distillery ; but this beat brought nothing. Albert killed a
young black cock before we came to the second beat.
We were home at a quarter-past three o'clock.
VISIT TO THE DHU LOCH, &c.
September n, 1849.
The morning was very fine. I heard the children
repeat some poetry in German, and then at ten o'clock
we set off with Lady Douro* in our carriage, and drove
on beyond Inch Bobbard, changing .horses near Birkhall,
and stopping for a moment at the Linn of Muich; here
we found the ponies, which we mounted, forded the river,
and were almost immediately at the hut. We stopped
there only for an instant, and remounted our ponies
directly ; Grant, Macdonald (who led my pony the whole
time, and was extremely useful and attentive), Jemmie
Coutts (leading Lady Douro's pony), Charlie Coutts, and
John Brown going with us : old John Gordon leading the
way. It was half-past twelve when we began ascending
the hill immediately behind the house, and proceeded
along over the hills, to a great height, whence the view
was very fine, quite overhanging the loch, and commanding
an extensive view of Glen Muich beyond on the opposite
side. The road got worse and worse. It was particu-
larly bad when we had to pass the Burn of the Glassalt,
which falls into the loch, and was very full. There had
been so much rain, that the burns and rivers were very
full, and the ground quite soft. We rode over the Strone
* Now Duchess of Wellington.
( 79 )
Hill, the wind blowing dreadfully hard when we came to
the top. Albert walked almost from the first, and shot a
hare and a grouse; he put up a good many of them.
We walked to a little hollow immediately above the
Dhu Loch, and at half-past three seated ourselves there,
and had some very welcome luncheon. The loch is
only a mile in length, and very wild ; the hills, which
are very rocky and precipitous, rising perpendicularly
from it.
In about half an hour we began our journey home-
wards. We came straight down beside the Muich, which
falls in the most beautiful way over the rocks and stones
in the glen. We rode down, and only had to get off to
cross the Glassalt, which was an awkward ford to scramble
over. The road was rough, but certainly far less soft and
disagreeable than the one we came by. I rode " Loch-
nagar " at first, but changed him for Colonel Gordon's
pony, as I thought he took fright at the bogs ; but
Colonel Gordon's was broken -winded, and struggled
very much in the soft ground, which was very dis-
agreeable.
We were only an hour coming down to the boat. The
evening was very fine, but it blew very hard on the lake
and the men could not pull, and I got so alarmed that I
begged to land, and Lady Douro was of my opinion that
it was much better to get out. We accordingly landed,
and rode home along a sort of sheep-path on the side of
the lake, which took us three-quarters of an hour. It was
very rough and very narrow, for the hill rises abruptly
from the lake ; we had seven hundred feet above us, and
I suppose one hundred feet below. However, we arrived
at the hut quite safely at twenty minutes to seven, thankful
to have got through all our difficulties and adventures,
which are always very pleasant to look back upon.
( So )
We dined a little before eight with Lady Douro, and
played two rubbers of whist with her.
Old John Gordon amused Albert by saying, in speak-
ing of the bad road we had gone, " It's something steep
and something rough," and " this is the only best,"
meaning that it was very bad, which was a characteristic
reply.
ASCENT OF BEN-NA-BHOURD.
September 6, 1850.
At half-past ten o'clock we set off with Lady Douro
and Ernest Leiningen,* and drove to Invercauld, about
three-quarters of a mile beyond the house, where we found
our people and ponies, together with Arthur Farquharson,
Shewin, and others. We then walked a little way, after
which we mounted our ponies and began the ascent
towards Ben-na-Bhourd Macdonald leading my pony,
good little "Lochnagar," and James Coutts Lady Douro's.
There is an excellent path, almost a narrow road, made
up to within the last two miles and a half, which are very
steep and rocky. The scenery is beautiful. We first
rode up a glen (where a stone of the house in which Finla,
the first of the Farquharsons, was born, is still shown,)
through which the Glassalt runs. Further on comes a
very narrow, rocky, and precipitous glen, called the
Sluggan, said to mean the " swallow," or " swallowing."
Some little distance after this the country opens widely
before you, with Ben-na-Bhourd rising towards the left ;
and then you enter the Forest of Mar, which the Duke of
Leeds rents from Lord Fife. There is a very pretty little
shooting-box, called Sluggan Cottage, which is half way
from Invercauld to the top of Ben-na-Bhourd. Below
this is the Quoich, which we forded. The last bit of the
* Our nephew.
( S2 )
real road is a long steep ascent on the brow of a hill, the
name of which means the " Tooth's craig." (Macdonald
translated all the names for us.) The ascent, after the
path ceases, is very stony ; in fact, nothing but bare
granite. Albert had walked a great deal, and we ladies
got off after it became more uneven, and when we were
no longer very far from the top. We came upon a
number of " cairngorms," which we all began picking up,
and found some very pretty ones. At the top, which is
perfectly flat, the ground is entirely composed of stones
or wet swampy moss, and the granite seems to have
stopped just a few feet below. We sat down at a cairn
and had our luncheon. The wind was extremely
cold, but whenever we got out of it, the air was very hot.
The view from the top was magnificent and most exten-
sive : Ben-na-Bhourd is 3,940 feet high. We saw Ben-y-
Ghlo very clearly, Cairngorm and Ben Muich Dhui quite
close but in another direction ; the Moray Firth, and,
through the glass, ships even could be seen ; and on the
other side rose Loch-na-Gar, still the jewel of all the
mountains here.
After luncheon we began our downward progress, and
walked the whole of the steep part till we reached the
path ; we came down very quickly, my pony making great
haste, though he had half a mind to kick. Albert found
some beautiful little rock crystals in the Sluggan, and
walked the remainder of the way; we ladies left our
horses about a quarter of a mile before we met the carriage.
The whole distance from Invercauld to the top of Ben-na-
Bhourd is nine miles, so we must have been at least
1 8 miles riding and walking. It has been a delightful
expedition. It was six o'clock when we reached the
carriage, and we were home at a little past seven.
THE GATHERING.
September 12, 1850.
We lunched early, and then went at half-past two
o'clock, with the children and all our party, except Lady
Douro, to the Gathering at the Castle of Braemar, as we
did last year. The Duffs, Farquharsons, the Leeds's, and
those staying with them, and Captain Forbes * and forty
of his men who had come over from Strath Don, were
there, f Some of our people were there also. There
were the usual games of " putting the stone," " throwing
the hammer" and "caber," and racing up the hill of
Craig Cheunnich, which was accomplished in less than
six minutes and a half; and we were all much pleased
to see our gillie Duncan, J who is an active, good-looking,
young man, win. He was far before the others the whole
* Now Sir Charles Forbes, of Castle Newe.
t A work shortly to be published, entitled Highlanders of Scotland,
by Kenneth Macleay, Esq., R.S.A., contains excellent portraits of
some of the men of these and other of the principal Highland clans,
as well as of the Retainers of the Royal Household.
One of the keepers since 1851 : an excellent, intelligent man,
much liked by the Prince. He, like many others, spit blood after
running the race up that steep hill in this short space of time, and
he has never been so strong since. The running up hill has in con-
sequence been discontinued. He lives in a cottage at the back of
Craig Gowan (commanding a beautiful view) called Robrech, which
the Prince built for him.
( 84 )
way. It is a fearful exertion. Mr. Farquharson brought
him up to me afterwards. Eighteen or nineteen started,
and it looked very pretty to see them run off in their
different coloured kilts, with their white shirts (the jackets
or doublets they take off for all the games), and scramble
up through the wood, emerging gradually at the edge of
it, and climbing the hill.
After this we went into the castle, and saw some
dancing ; the prettiest was a reel by Mr. Farquharson's
children and some other children, and the " Ghillie
Callum " beautifully danced by John Athole Farquharson,
the fourth son. The twelve children were all there,
including the baby, who is two years old.
Mama, Charles, and Ernest joined us at Braemar.
Mama enjoys it all very much : it is her first visit to
Scotland. We left after the dancing.
SALMON LEISTERING.
September 13, 1850.
We walked with Charles, the boys, and Vicky to the
river side above the bridge, where all our tenants were
assembled with poles and spears, or rather " leisters " for
catching salmon. They all went into the river, walking
up it, and then back again, poking about under all the
stones to bring fish up to where the men stood with the
net. It had a very pretty effect ; about one hundred men
wading through the river, some in kilts with poles and
spears, all very much excited. Not succeeding the first
time, we went higher up, and moved to three or four
different places, but did not get any salmon ; one or two
escaping. Albert stood on a stone, and Colonel Gordon
and Lord James Murray waded about the whole time.
Duncan, in spite of all his exertions yesterday, and having
besides walked to and from the Gathering, was the whole
time in the water. Not far from the laundry there was
another trial, and here we had a great fright. In one
place there was a very deep pool, into which two men very
foolishly went, and one could not swim ; we suddenly saw
them sink, and in one moment they seemed drowning,
though surrounded by people. There was a cry for help,
and a general rush, including Albert, towards the spot,
which frightened me so much, that I grasped Lord
( 36 )
Carlisle's arm in great agony. However, Dr. Robertson*
swam in and pulled the man out, and all was safely over ;
but it was a horrid moment.
A salmon was speared here by one of the men ; after
which we walked to the ford, or quarry, where we were
very successful, seven salmon being caught, some in the
net, and some speared. Though Albert stood in the
water some time he caught nothing : but the scene at
this beautiful spot was exciting and picturesque in the
extreme. I wished for Landseer's pencil. The sun was
intensely hot. We did not get back till after three
o'clock, and then took luncheon. The Duchess of
Gordon came to see us afterwards; and while she was
still with us, Captain Forbes (who had asked permission
to do so) marched through the grounds with his men, the
pipers going in front. They stopped, and cheered three-
times-three, throwing up their bonnets. They then
marched off; and we listened with pleasure to the distant
shouts and the sound of the pibroch.
We heard afterwards that our men had carried all
Captain Forbes's men on their backs through the river.
They saw the fishing going on, and came to the water's
edge on the opposite side ; and on being greeted by our
people, said they would come over, on which ours went
across in one moment and carried them over Macdonald
at their head carrying Captain Forbes on his back. This
was very courteous, and worthy of chivalrous times.
* The gentleman who has had from the beginning the entire
management of our property at Balmoral, &c. He is highly
esteemed, and is a most amiable man, who has carried out all the
Prince's and my wishes admirably,
LOCH MUICI-I.
September 16, 1850.
We reached the hut at three o'clock. At half-past four
we walked down to the loch, and got into the boat with
our people : Duncan, J. Brown,* P. Courts, f and Leys
rowing. They rowed mostly towards the opposite side,
which is very fine indeed, and deeply furrowed by the
* The same who, in 1858, became my regular attendant out of
doors everywhere in the Highlands ; who commenced as gillie in
1849, and was selected by Albert and me to go with my carriage.
In 1851 he entered our service permanently, and began in that year
leading my pony, and advanced step by step by his good conduct
and intelligence. His attention, care, and faithfulness cannot be
exceeded j and the state of my health, which of late years has been
sorely tried and weakened, renders such qualifications most valuable,
and indeed, most needful in a constant attendant upon all occasions.
He has since (in December, 1865), most deservedly, been promoted
to be an upper servant, and my permanent personal attendant. He
has all the independence and elevated feelings peculiar to the High-
land race, and is singularly straightforward, simple-minded, kind-
hearted, and disinterested ; always ready to oblige ; and of a dis-
cretion rarely to be met with. He is now in his fortieth year. His
father was a small farmer, who lived at the Bush on the opposite
side to Balmoral. He is the second of nine brothers, three of
whom have died two are in Australia and New Zealand, two are
living in the neighbourhood of Balmoral ; and the youngest, Archie
(Archiebald) is valet to our son Leopold, and is an excellent, trust-
worthy young man.
*t* Now, since some years, piper to Farquharson of Invercauld.
torrents, which form glens and corries where birch and
alder trees grow close to the water's edge. We landed
on a sandy spot below a fine glen, through which flows
the Black Burn. It was very dry here ; but still very
picturesque, with alder-trees and mountain-ash in full
fruit overhanging it. We afterwards landed at our usual
place at the head of the loch, which is magnificent ; and
rode back. A new road has been made, and an excellent
one it is, winding along above the lake:
The moon rose, and was beautifully reflected on the
lake, which, with its steep green hills, looked lovely. To
add to the beauty, poetry, and wildness of the scene,
Coutts played in the boat; the men, who row very
quickly and well now, giving an occasional shout when
he played a reel. It reminded me of Sir Walter Scott's
lines in The Lady of the Lake :
" Ever, as on they bore, more loud
And louder rung the pibroch proud.
At first the sound, by distance tame,
Mellow'd along the waters came,
And, lingering long by cape and bay,
Wail'd every harsher note away."
We were home at a little past seven ; and it was so still
and pretty as we entered the wood, and saw the light
flickering from our humble little abode.
TORCH-LIGHT BALL AT CORRIEMULZIE.
September 10, 1852.
We dined at a quarter-past six o'clock in morning
gowns, (not ordinary ones, but such as are worn at a
"breakfast,") and at seven started for Corriemulzie, for
a torch-light ball in the open air. I wore a white bonnet, a
grey watered silk, and (according to Highland fashion)
my plaid scarf over my shoulder ; and Albert his High-
land dress which he wears every evening. We drove in
the postchaise ; the two ladies, Lord Derby and Colonel
Gordon following in the other carriage.
It was a mild though threatening evening, but fortu-
nately it kept fine. We arrived there at half-past eight,
by which time, of course, it was quite dark. Mr. and
Lady Agnes Duff* received us at the door, and then
took us at once through the house to the open space
where the ball was, which was hid from our view till the
curtains were drawn asunder. It was really a beautiful
and most unusual sight. All the company were assem-
bled there. A space about one hundred feet in length
and sixty feet in width was boarded, and entirely sur-
rounded by Highlanders bearing torches, which were
placed in sockets, and constantly replenished. There
* Now Earl and Countess of Fife.
( 90 )
were seven pipers playing together, Mackay * leading
and they received us with the usual salute and three
cheers, and "Nis! nis ! nis!" (pronounced: "Neesh!
" neesh ! neesh !" the Highland " Hip ! hip ! hip ! ") and
again cheers; after which came a most animated reel.
There were about sixty people, exclusive of the High-
landers, of whom there were also sixty ; all the Highland
gentlemen, and any who were at all Scotch, were in kilts,
the ladies in evening dresses. The company and the
Highlanders danced pretty nearly alternately. There
were two or three sword dances. We were upon a hant
pas, over which there was a canopy. The whole thing
was admirably done, and very well worth seeing. Albert
was delighted with it. I must not omit to mention a
reel danced by eight Highlanders holding torches in their
hands.
We left at half-past nine o'clock, and were home by a
little past eleven. A long way certainly (14 miles I
believe).
* My Piper from the year 1843, considered almost the first in
Scotland, who was recommended by the Marquis of Breadalbane ;
he unfortunately went out of his mind in the year 1854, and died in
1855. A brother of his was Piper to the Duke of Sussex.
ACCOUNT OF THE NEWS OF THE DUKE OF
WELLINGTON'S DEATH.
Alt-na-Giuthasach) Thursday, September 16, 1852.
We were startled this morning, at seven o'clock, by
a letter from Colonel Phipps, enclosing a telegraphic
despatch with the report, from the sixth edition of the
Sun, of the Duke of Wellington's death the day before
yesterday, which report, however, we did not at all
believe. Would to God that we had been right ; and
that this day had not been cruelly saddened in the
afternoon.
We breakfasted with Miss Seym our ;* and, after writing
and reading, we started at a quarter to eleven with her
and our Highland party. The day was not cold, and
would, in fact, have been very fine, if it had not been for
a constant succession of very slight showers, or clouds
coming down. We walked along the loch, the road up
to which is excellent. It has been widened and would
admit of a carriage. We arrived at the Alt-na-Dedrg,
a small burn and fall, which is very fine and rapid.
Up this a winding path has been made, upon which we
rode; though some parts are rather steep for riding.
The burn falls over red granite ; and in the ravine grow
birch, mountain-ash, and alder. We got off and walked
* Now Hon. Lady Biddulph.
( 92 )
a good long way on the top of the very steep hills over-
hanging the loch, to the Stron, and the Moss of Mon
Elpie, whence you overlook all the country belonging
to Lord Panmure, Mount Keen, the Ogilvie Hills, &c.
We stopped to rest a little while though the walking is
excellent, so hard and dry on a point overlooking the
Shiel of the Glassalt, and the head of the loch. Here I
suddenly missed my watch, which the dear old Duke
had given me ; and, not being certain whether I had put
it on or not, I asked Mackenzie* to go back and inquire.
We walked on until we reached the higher part of the
Glassalt, which we stepped across. We had passed over
the tops of these hills on that expedition to the Dhu Loch
three years ago, when the ground was so soft, that ponies
could scarcely get along, the roads were so very bad.
Then we began the descent of the Glassalt, along
which another path has been admirably made. From
here it is quite beautiful, so wild and grand. The falls
are equal to those of the Bruar at Blair, and are 150
feet in height ; the whole height to the foot of the loch
being 500 feet. It looked very picturesque to see
the ponies and Highlanders winding along. We came
down to the Shiel of the Glassalt, lately built, where
there is a charming room for us, commanding a most
lovely view. Here we took the cold luncheon, which
we had brought with us ; and after that we mounted our
ponies, and rode to the Dhu Loch, along a beautiful
path which keeps well above the burn, that rushes along
over flat great slabs of stone. The scenery is exquisite.
We passed a small fall called the Burn of the Spullan
(" spout "). In half or three quarters of an hour we were
at the wild and picturesque Dhu Loch.
* One of our keepers and a very good man ; he lives at Alt-na-
Giuthasach.
( 93 )
We got off our ponies, and I had just sat down to
sketch, when Mackenzie returned, saying my watch was
safe at home, and bringing letters : amongst them there
was one from Lord Derby, which I tore open, and alas !
it contained the confirmation of the fatal news : that
England's, or rather Britairis pride, her glory, her hero,
the greatest man she ever had produced, was no more !
Sad day ! Great and irreparable national loss !
Lord Derby enclosed a few lines from Lord Charles
Wellesley, saying that his dear great father had died on
Tuesday at three o'clock, after a few hours' illness and
no suffering. God's will be done ! The day must have
come : the Duke was eighty-three. It is well for him
that he has been taken when still in the possession of his
great mind, and without a long illness, but what a loss !
One cannot think of this country without " the Duke,"
our immortal hero !
In him centered almost every earthly honour a subject
could possess. His position was the highest a subject
ever had, above party, looked up to by all, revered
by the whole nation, the friend of the Sovereign ; and
how simply he carried these honours ! With what
singleness of purpose, what straightforwardness, what
courage, were all the motives of his actions guided. The
Crown never possessed, and I fear never will so
devoted, loyal, and faithful a subject, so staunch a sup-
porter ! To us (who alas ! have lost, now, so many of
our valued and experienced friends,) his loss is irre-
parable, for his readiness to aid and advise, if it could be
of use to us, and to overcome any and every difficulty,
was unequalled. To Albert he showed the greatest
kindness and the utmost confidence. His experience
and his knowledge of the past were so great too ; he was
a link which connected us with bygone times, with the
( 94 )
last century. Not an eye will be dry in the whole
country.
We hastened down on foot to the head vlLochMuich;
and then rode home, in a heavy shower, to Alt-na-
Giuthasach. Our whole enjoyment was spoilt ; a gloom
overhung all of us.
We wrote to Lord Derby and Lord Charles Wellesley.
( 95 )
BUILDING THE CAIRN ON CRAIG GOWAN, &c.
Monday, October n, 1852.
This day has been a very happy, lucky, and memorable
one our last ! A fine morning.
Albert had to see Mr. Walpole, and therefore it was
nearly eleven o'clock before we could go up to the top of
Craig Gowan, to see the cairn built, which was to com-
memorate our taking possession of this dear place ; the
old cairn having been pulled down. We set off with all
the children, ladies, gentlemen, and a few of the servants,
including Macdonald and Grant, who had not already
gone up; and at the Moss House, which is half way,
Mackay met us, and preceded us, playing, Duncan and
Donald Stewart* going before him, to the highest point
of Craig Gowan; where were assembled all the servants
and tenants, with their wives and children and old rela-
tions. All our little friends were there : Mary Symons
and Lizzie Stewart, the four Grants, and several others.
I then placed the first stone, after which Albert laid
one, then the children, according to their ages. All the
ladies and gentlemen placed one; and then every one
* One of the keepers, whom we found here in 1848. He is an
excellent man, and was much liked by the Prince ; he always led
the dogs when the Prince went out stalking. He lives in the
Western Lodge, close to Grant's house, which was built for him by
the Prince.
( 96 )
came forward at once, each person carrying a stone and
placing it on the cairn. Mr. and Mrs. Anderson were
there ; Mackay played ; and whisky was given to all. It
took, I am sure, an hour building; and whilst it was
going on, some merry reels were danced on a stone
opposite. All the old people (even the gardener's wife
from Corbie Hall^ near Abergeldie^) danced ; and many of
the children, Mary Symons and Lizzie Stewart especially,
danced so nicely; the latter with her hair all hanging
down. Poor dear old " Monk," Sir Robert Gordon's
faithful old dog, was sitting there amongst us all. At
last, when the cairn, which is, I think, seven or eight
feet high, was nearly completed, Albert climbed up to
the top of it, and placed the last stone ; after which three
cheers were given. It was a gay, pretty, and touching
sight ; and I felt almost inclined to cry. The view was
so beautiful over the dear hills; the day so fine; the
whole so gemuthluh. May God bless this place, and
allow us yet to see it and enjoy it many a long year !
After luncheon, Albert decided to walk through the
wood for the last time, to have a last chance, and allowed
Vicky and me to go with him. At half-past three o'clock
we started, got out at Grant's, and walked up part of
Carrop, intending to go along the upper path, when a stag
was heard to roar, and we all turned into the wood. We
crept along, and got into the middle path. Albert soon
left us to go lower, and we sat down to wait for him ;
presently we heard a shot then complete silence and,
after another pause of some little time, three more shots.
This was again succeeded by complete silence. We sent
some one to look, who shortly after returned, saying the stag
had been twice hit and they were after him. Macdonald
next went, and in about five minutes we heard " Solomon"
give tongue, and knew he had the stag at bay. We
( 97 )
listened a little while, and then began moving down
hoping to arrive in time ; but the barking had ceased,
and Albert had already killed the stag ; and on the road
he lay, a little way beyond Invergelder the beauty that
we had admired yesterday evening. He was a magnificent
animal, and I sat down and scratched a little sketch of
him on a bit of paper that Macdonald had in his pocket,
which I put on a stone while Albert and Vicky, with
the others, built a little cairn to mark the spot. We
heard, after I had finished my little scrawl, and the
carriage had joined us, that another stag had been seen
near the road; and we had not gone as far as the
" Irons," * before we saw one below the road, looking so
handsome. Albert jumped out and fired the animal
fell, but rose again, and went on a little way, and Albert
* These "Irons" are the levers of an old saw-mill which was
pulled down, and they were left there to be sold between thirty
and forty years ago and have remained there ever since, not being
considered worth selling, on account of the immense trouble of
transporting them.
7
( 98 )
followed. Very shortly after, however, we heard a cry,
and ran down and found Grant and Donald Stewart
pulling up a stag with a very pretty head. Albert had
gone on, Grant went after him, and I and Vicky remained
with Donald Stewart, the stag, and the dogs. I sat down
to sketch, and poor Vicky, unfortunately, seated herself
on a wasp's nest, and was much stung. Donald Stewart
rescued her, for I could not, being myself too much
alarmed. Albert joined us in twenty minutes, unaware
of having killed the stag. What a delightful day ! But
sad that it should be the last day ! Home by half-past
six. We found our beautiful stag had arrived, and
admired him much.
( 99 )
LAYING THE FOUNDATION STONE OF OUR
NEW HOUSE.
September 28, 1853.
A fine morning early, but when we walked out at half-
past ten o'clock it began raining, and soon poured down
without ceasing. Most fortunately it cleared up before two,
and the sun shone brightly for the ceremony of laying
the foundation stone of the new house. Mama and all
her party arrived from Abergeldie a little before three.
I annex the Programme of the Ceremony, which was
strictly adhered to, and was really very interesting :
PROGRAMME.
The stone being prepared and suspended over that upon
which it is to rest, (in which will be a cavity for the bottle
containing the parchment and the coins) :
The workmen will be placed in a semicircle at a little
distance from the stone, and the women and home servants
in an inner semicircle.
Her Majesty the Queen, and His Royal Highness the
Prince, accompanied by the Royal Children, Her Royal
Highness the Duchess of Kent, and attended by Her
Majesty's guests and suite, will proceed from the house.
Her Majesty, the Prince, and the Royal Family, will stand
on the South side of the stone, the suite being behind and
on each side of the Royal party.
The Rev. Mr. Anderson will then pray for a blessing on
the work. Her Majesty will affix her signature to the parch-
ment, recording the day upon which the foundation stone
was laid. Her Majesty's signature will be followed by that
of the Prince and the Royal Children, the Duchess of Kent,
and any others that Her Majesty may command, and the
parchment will be placed in the bottle.
One of each of the current coins of the present reign will
also be placed in the bottle, and the bottle having been
sealed up, will be placed in the cavity. The trowel will then
be delivered to Her Majesty by Mr. Smith of Aberdeen, the
architect, and the mortar having been spread, the stone will
be lowered.
The level and square will then be applied, and their cor-
rectness having been ascertained, the mallet will be delivered
to Her Majesty by Mr. Stuart (the clerk of the works), when
Her Majesty will strike the stone and declare it to be laid.
The cornucopia will be placed upon the stone, and the oil
and wine poured out by Her Majesty.
The pipes will play, and Her Majesty, with the Royal
Family, will retire.
As soon after as it can be got ready, the workmen will
proceed to their dinner. After dinner, the following toasts
will be given by Mr. Smith :
" The Queen."
" The Prince and the Royal Family."
" Prosperity to the house, and happiness to the inmates of
Balmoral."
The workmen will then leave the dinner-room, and amuse
themselves upon the green with Highland games till seven
o'clock, when a dance will take place in the ball-room.
We walked round to the spot, preceded by Mackay.
Mr. Anderson* made a very appropriate prayer. The
wind was very high ; but else everything went off as well
as could possibly be desired.
The workmen and people all gave a cheer when the
* The Minister of Crathie : he died November, 1866.
whole was concluded. In about three-quarters of an
hour's time we went in to see the people at their dinner;
and after this walked over to Craig Gowan for Albert to
get a chance for black game.
We dressed early, and went for twenty minutes before
dinner to see the people dancing in the ball-room, which
they did with the greatest spirit.
( 102 )
THE KIRK.
October 29, 1854.
We went to Kirk, as usual, at twelve o'clock. The
service was performed by the Rev. Norman McLeod, of
Glasgow, son of Dr. McLeod, and anything finer I never
heard. The sermon, entirely extempore, was quite
admirable ; so simple, and yet so eloquent, and so
beautifully argued and put. The text was from the
account of the coming of Nicodemus to Christ by night ;
St. John, chapter 3. Mr. McLeod showed in the
sermon how we all tried to please self, and live for that,
and in so doing found no rest. Christ had come not
only to die for us, but to show how we were to live.
The second prayer was very touching; his allusions to
us were so simple, saying, after his mention of us, " bless
their children." It gave me a lump in my throat, as also
when he prayed for " the dying, the wounded, the widow,
and the orphans." Every one came back delighted ; and
how satisfactory it is to come back from church with such
feelings ! The servants and the Highlanders all were
equally delighted.
ARRIVAL AT THE NEW CASTLE AT BALMORAL.
September 7, 1855.
At a quarter-past seven o'clock we arrived at dear
Balmoral. Strange, very strange, it seemed to me to
drive past, indeed through, the old house ; the connecting
part between it and the offices being broken through.
The new house looks beautiful. The tower and the
rooms in the connecting part are, however, only half
finished, and the offices are still unbuilt : therefore the
gentlemen (except the Minister*) live in the old house,
and so do most of the servants ; there is a long wooden
passage which connects the new house with the offices.
An old shoe was thrown after us into the house, for good
luck, when we entered the hall. The house is charming :
the rooms delightful; the furniture, papers, everything
perfection.
* A Cabinet Minister is always in attendance upon the Queen at
.Balmoral.
( I0 4 )
IMPRESSIONS OF THE NEW CASTLE.
September 8, 1855.
The view from the windows of our rooms, and from
the library, drawing-room, &c. below them, of the valley
of the Dee, with the mountains in the background,
which one never could see from the old house, is quite
beautiful. We walked about, and alongside the river,
and looked at all that has been done, and considered all
that has to be done ; and afterwards we went over to the
poor dear old house, and to our rooms, which it was
quite melancholy to see so deserted ; and settled about
things being brought over.
( I0 5 )
NEWS OF THE FALL OF SEVASTOPOL.
September 10, 1855.
Mama, and her lady and gentleman, to dinner.
All were in constant expectation of more telegraphic
despatches. At half-past ten o'clock two arrived one
for me, and one for Lord Granville. I began reading
mine, which was from Lord Clarendon, with details from
Marshal Pelissier of the further destruction of the Russian
ships ; and Lord Granville said, " I have still better news ;"
on which he read, " From General Simpson Sevastopol is
in the hands of the Allies." God be .praised for it ! Our
delight was great ; but we could hardly believe the good
news, and from having so long, so anxiously expected it,
one could not realize the actual fact.
Albert said they should go at once and light the bonfire
which had been prepared when the false report of the fall
of the town arrived last year, and had remained ever since,
waiting to be lit. On the 5th of November, the day of the
battle Qilnkermann, the wind upset it, strange to say; and
now again, most strangely, it only seemed to wait for our
return to be lit.
The new house seems to be lucky, indeed ; for, from
the first moment of our arrival, we have had good news.
In a few minutes, Albert and all the gentlemen, in every
species of attire, sallied forth, followed by all the servants,
and gradually by all the population of the village keepers,
gillies, workmen up to the top of the cairn. We waited,
and saw them light the bonfire ; accompanied by general
cheering. It blazed forth brilliantly, and we could see
the numerous figures surrounding it some dancing, all
shouting; Ross* playing his pipes, and Grant and Mac-
donald firing off guns continually ; while poor old Frangois
d'Albertangonf lighted a number of squibs below, the
greater part of which would not go off. About three-
quarters of an hour after, Albert came down, and said
the scene had been wild and exciting beyond everything.
The people had been drinking healths in whisky, and
were in great ecstasy. The whole house seemed in a
wonderful state of excitement. The boys were with
difficulty awakened, and when at last this was the case,
they begged leave to go up to the top of the cairn.
We remained till a quarter to twelve; and, just as
I was undressing, all the people came down under the
windows, the pipes playing, the people singing, firing off
guns, and cheering first for me, then for Albert, the
Emperor of the French, and the " downfall of Sevastopol"
* My Piper since 1854 ; he had served seventeen years in the
42nd Highlanders a very respectable, good man.
t An old servant of Sir R. Gordon's, who had charge of the
house, and was a native of Alsace ; he died in 1858.
THE BETROTHAL OF THE PRINCESS ROYAL.
September 29, 1855.
Our dear Victoria was this day engaged to Prince
Frederick William of Prussia, who had been on a visit
to us since the i4th. He had already spoken to us, on
the 2oth, of his wishes ; but we were uncertain, on account
of her extreme youth, whether he should speak to her
himself, or wait till he came back again. However, we
felt it was better he should do so ; and during our ride
up Craig-na-Ban this afternoon, he picked a piece of
white heather, (the emblem of " good luck,") which he
gave to her ; and this enabled him to make an allusion
to his hopes and wishes, as they rode down Glen Girnoch,
which led to this happy conclusion.
THE KIRK.
October 14, 1855.
To Kirk at twelve o'clock. The Rev. J. Caird, one of
the most celebrated preachers in Scotland, performed the
service, and electrified all present by a most admirable
and beautiful sermon, which lasted nearly an hour, but
which kept one's attention riveted. The text was from
the twelfth chapter of Romans, and the eleventh verse :
"Not slothful in business ; fervent in spirit; serving the
" Lord? He explained, in the most beautiful and simple
manner, what real religion is; how it ought to pervade
every action of our lives ; not a thing only for Sundays,
or for our closet ; not a thing to drive us from the world ;
not " a perpetual moping over ' good ' books," but " being
"and doing good;" "letting everything be done in a
"Christian spirit." It was as fine as Mr. McLeod's
sermon last year, and sent us home much edified.
FINDING THE OLD CASTLE GONE.
Augustus, 1856.
On arriving at Balmoral at seven o'clock in the evening,
we found the tower finished as well as the offices, and
the poor old house gone ! The effect of the whole is
very fine.
GARDENS, &c. ROUND THE NEW CASTLE.
August 31, 1856.
We walked along the river and outside the house.
The new offices and the yard are excellent; and the
little garden on the west side, with the eagle fountain
which the King of Prussia gave me, and which used to
be in the greenhouse at Windsor, is extremely pretty;
as are also the flower-beds under the walls of the side
which faces the Dee. There are sculptured arms on the
different shields, gilt, which has a very good effect ; and
a bas-relief under our windows not gilt representing
St. Hubert, with St. Andrew on one side and St. George
on the other side : all done by Mr. Thomas.*
* He died in March, 1862. The Prince had a high opinion of
his taste.
( III )
LOVE FOR BALMORAL.
October 13, 1856.
Every year my heart becomes more fixed in this dear
Paradise, and so much more so now, that all has become
my dear Albert's own creation, own work, own building,
own laying out, as at Osborne ; and his great taste, and
the impress of his dear hand, have been stamped every-
where. He was very busy to-day, settling and arranging
many things for next year.
OPENING OF THE NEW BRIDGE OVER THE
LINN OF DEE.
September 8, 1857.
At half-past one o'clock we started in " Highland
" state," Albert in a royal Stuart plaid, and I and the
girls in skirts of the same, with the ladies (who had
only returned at five in the morning from the ball at
Mar Lodge) and gentlemen, for the Linn of Dee, to open
the new bridge there. The valley looked beautiful. A
triumphal arch was erected, at which Lord Fife and
Mr. Brooke received us, and walked near the carriage,
pipers playing the road lined with Duff men. On the
bridge Lady Fife received us, and we all drank in whisky
" prosperity to the bridge." The view of the Linn is very
fine from it.
All the company and a band were outside a tent on
the bank overlooking the bridge. Here we took some
tea, talked with the company, and then drove back by
Mar Lodge, the Fifes preceding us to the end of the
grounds. The same people were there as at the
Gatherings, the Campdens, Errolls, Airlies, old Lady
Duff, and Mr. and Lady L. Brooke, and others. We
were home at half-past five, not without having some
rain by the way.
VISITS TO THE OLD WOMEN.
Saturday, September 26, 1857.
Albert went out with Alfred for the day, and I walked
out with the two girls and Lady Churchill, stopped at
the shop and made some purchases for poor people and
others; drove a little way, got out and walked up the
hill to Balnacroft, Mrs. P. Farquharson's, and she walked
round with us to some of the cottages to show me where
the poor people lived, and to tell them who I was.
Before we went into any we met an old woman, who,
Mrs. Farquharson said, was very poor, eighty-eight years
old, and mother to the former distiller. I gave her a
warm petticoat, and the tears rolled down her old cheeks,
and she shook my hands, and prayed God to bless me :
it was very touching.
I went into a small cabin of old Kitty Kear's, who is
eighty-six years old quite erect, and who welcomed us
with a great air of dignity. She sat down and spun. I
gave her, also, a warm petticoat ; she said, " May the
" Lord ever attend ye and yours, here and hereafter ;
" and may the Lord be a guide to ye, and keep ye from all
" harm." She was quite surprised at Vicky's height; great
interest is taken in her. We went on to a cottage
(formerly Jean Gordon's), to visit old widow Symons,
who is " past fourscore," with a nice rosy face, but was
bent quite double ; she was most friendly, shaking hands
( "4 )
with us all, asking which was I, and repeating many kind
blessings : " May the Lord attend ye with mirth and with
" joy ; may He ever be with ye in this world, and when ye
" leave it." To Vicky, when told she was going to be
married, she said, " May the Lord be a guide to ye in
" your future, and may every happiness attend ye." She
was very talkative ; and when I said I hoped to see her
again, she expressed an expectation that " she should be
called any day," and so did Kitty Kear.*
We went into three other cottages : to Mrs. Symons's
(daughter-in-law to the old widow living next door), who
had an " unwell boy ; " then across a little burn to
another old woman's ; and afterwards peeped into Blair
the fiddler's. We drove back, and got out again to visit
old Mrs. Grant (Grant's mother), who is so tidy and
clean, and to whom I gave a dress and handkerchief,
and she said, " You're too kind to me, you're over kind
" to me, ye give me more every year, and I get older
" every year." After talking some time with her, she
said, " I am happy to see ye looking so nice." She had
tears in her eyes, and speaking of Vicky's going, said,
" I'm very sorry, and I think she is sorry hersel';" and,-
having said she feared she would not see her (the
Princess) again, said : " I am very sorry I said that, but
" I meant no harm ; I always say just what I think, not
" what is fut " (fit). Dear old lady ; she is such a pleasant
person.
Really the affection of these good people, who are so
hearty and so happy to see you, taking interest in every-
thing, is very touching and gratifying.
* She died in Jan. 1865.
VISIT TO THE PRINCE'S ENCAMPMENT AT
FEITHORT.
Tuesday, October 6, 1857.
At twelve o'clock I drove off with the two girls to the
"Irons," where we mounted our ponies, and rode up
(Brown and Robertson attending on foot) through the
Corrie Huie, along the pretty new path through Feithluie
to the foot of the very steep ascent to Feithort, where we
got off and walked up and suddenly, when nearly at the
top of the path, came upon Albert's little encampment,
which was just at the edge of the winding path.
Albert was still absent, having gone out at six o'clock,
but Lohlein and some of the gillies were there. The
little house, with shelves for keeping a few boxes
(no seat), and a little stove, was not at all uncomfortable ;
but the wind was dreadfully high, and blew in. We
waited for about a quarter of an hour, and then Albert
arrived ; he had been out since six o'clock, shot three
stags, but only got one bad one. The fine one, yesterday
evening, had cost him much trouble. The night had
been bitterly cold and windy; but he had slept. We
lunched in the little " housie " at the open door. There
was a second hut for the people. Luncheon over, we
walked down and across the greater part of the Balloch
uie, mounting our ponies wherever it was wet. We
saw deer as we came lower down, and all of a sudden a
stag was seen quite close by the path ; Albert shot him,
and he fell at once. He had very fine horns, a royal on
one side.
Then they beat up to the Craig Daign. Poor Albert
was much tired, and had to walk all the time, as he had
no pony; we rode part of the way. Then the lower
part of the road was driven. As we were sitting by a
tree close to Albert a stag came out, and Albert killed
him at one shot. A fine day, though at times it has
been very cold. We got home at half-past six.
( "7 )
A FALL OF SNOW.
September 18, 1858.
Alas ! the last day ! When we got up the weather
seemed very hopeless. Everything was white with snow,
which lay, at least, an inch on the ground, and it con-
tinued snowing heavily, as it had done since five this
morning. I wished we might be snowed up, and unable
to move. How happy I should have been could it have
been so ! It continued snowing till half-past ten or eleven,
and then it began to clear up. The hills appeared quite
white ; the sun came out, and it became splendidly bright.
Albert was going to have the woods driven which are
not properly called Carrop Woods, but Garmaddie
Woods but had first to ride round Craig Gowan with
Dr. Robertson to see Robrech, the place where Duncan's
new house is to be built, which is above the village,
opposite Craig Luraghain, with a most splendid view ;
and at Grant's house I was to meet him.
At one o'clock I left with Alice and Lenchen* for
Grant's, where we met Albert, who joined us in the
carriage : the day was truly splendid. We got out at the
river, and were going down to Nelly's Bush, when a stag
was heard roaring very near ; so we had to stop, and,
with our plaids and cloaks to sit upon, really avoided
* Princess Helena.
( "8 )
getting very wet We waited till Albert was near to the
stag, saw it move, heard Albert fire twice, and the stag
turn, stop, and then disappear. Albert fired again, but
the stag had crossed the Dee; so we turned up on to the
road, and went into the dear old Corrie Buie; Albert
turning off to see if there were any deer near, while we
waited for him. We then came to a place which is
always wet, but which was particularly bad after the late
rain and snow. There was no pony for me to get on ;
and as I wished not to get my feet wet by walking
through the long grass, Albert proposed I should be
carried over in a plaid ; and Lenchen was first carried
over ; but it was held too low, and her feet dangled ; so
Albert suggested the plaid should be put round the men's
shoulders, and that I should sit upon it ; Brown and
Duncan, the two strongest and handiest, were the two
who undertook it, and I sat safely enough with an arm
on each man's shoulder, and was carried successfully
over. All the Highlanders are so amusing, and really
pleasant and instructive to talk to women as well as
men and the latter so gentlemanlike.* Albert's shots
* A similar view to that given in the text is admirably expressed
by the Reverend Frederick W. Robertson in his Lectures on Literary
and Social Topics, and his description of a Tyrolese is even more
applicable to a Highlander.
"My companion was a Tyrolese chamois-hunter, a man who, in
point of social position, might rank with an English labourer. I fear
there would be a difficulty in England in making such a companion-
ship pleasurable and easy to both parties ; there would be a painful
obsequiousness, or else an insolent familiarity on the one side, con-
straint on the other. In this case there was nothing of that sort.
We walked together, and ate together. He had all the indepen-
dence of a man, but he knew the courtesy which was due to a
stranger ; and when we parted for the night, he took his leave with
( H9 )
were heard close by whilst we were at luncheon ; and
there was a general rush of all the people. Albert joined
us soon after; he had had a great deal of trouble in
stalking his stag, which he had been after several days,
but had killed him at one shot. He was brought for us
to see : a very light-coloured one, with fine straight
horns, of extraordinary thickness. After this we walked
on for a beat quite round Carrop; and the view was
glorious ! A little shower of snow had fallen, but was
succeeded by brilliant sunshine. The hills covered with
snow, the golden birch-trees on the lower brown hills,
and the bright afternoon sky, were indescribably beautiful.
The following lines* admirably pourtray what I then
saw :
" The gorgeous bright October,
Then when brackens are changed, and heather blooms are faded,
And amid russet of heather and fern, green trees are bonnie ;
Alders are green, and oaks ; the rowan scarlet and yellow ;
a politeness and dignity which would have done no discredit to the
most finished gentleman. The reason, as it seemed to me, was
that his character had been moulded by the sublimities of the forms
of the outward nature amidst which he lived. It was impossible to
see the clouds wreathing themselves in that strange wild way of theirs
round the mountain crests, till the hills seemed to become awful
things, instinct with life it was impossible to walk, as we did some-
times, an hour or two before sunrise, and see the morning's beams
gilding with their pure light the grand old peaks on the opposite
side of the valley, while we ourselves were still in deepest shade,
and look on that man, his very exterior in harmony with all around
him, and his calm eye resting on all that wondrous spectacle, without
a feeling that these things had had their part in making him what he
was, and that you were in a country in which men were bound to
be polished, bound to be more refined, almost bound to be better
men than elsewhere."
* The Bothie of Tcber-na-Vitolich. By Arthur Hugh Clough.
I2O
One great glory of broad gold pieces appears the aspen,
And the jewels of gold that were hung in the hair of the birch-tree,
Pendulous, here and there, her coronet, necklace, and earrings,
Cover her now, o'er and o'er ; she is weary and scatters them from
her."
Oh ! how I gazed and gazed on God's glorious works
with a sad heart, from its being for the last time, and tried
to carry the scene away, well implanted and fixed in my
mind, for this effect with the snow we shall not often see
again. We saw it like this in 1852 ; but we have not
seen it so since, though we have often had snow-storms
and showers with a little snow lying on the highest hills.
ASCENT OF MORVEN.
September 14, 1859.
I felt very low-spirited at my dearest Albeit having to
leave at one o'clock for Aberdeen, to preside at the meeting
of the British Association.
I with Alice, the two ladies, Lord Charles Fitzroy, and
Brown, left shortly before for Morven. We took post-
horses at the foot of Gaifn, and drove by the right side
of the glen, along a new good road, avoiding the ford,
and by half-past two we were at the foot of Morven, not
far from the shooting-lodge there. Here we mounted our
ponies, and our caravan started with the gillies Jemmie
Coutts, an old acquaintance, now keeper of the lodge,
leading the way. About half-way, at a burn-side, we
stopped, seated ourselves on plaids on the fine springy
turf, and took luncheon ; then walked about, sketched,
mounted our ponies, and rode up to the top, which was
rather steep and soft, " foggy," as Brown called it, which
is the Highland expression for mossy, my little pony,
being so fat, panted dreadfully. Morven is 2,700 feet
high, and the view from it more magnificent than can be
described, so large and yet so near everything seemed,
and such seas of mountains with blue lights, and the
colour so wonderfully beautiful. We looked down upon
the Duke of Richmond's property, and saw the mountain
called the Buck of Cabrach, and still further on the Slate
( I" )
Hills ; to the east, Aberdeen and the blue sea, and we
could even see the ships with the naked eye : the table-
land between Tarland and Ballater ; and stretching out
below, due south, Mount Keen. To the south-west, Loch-
na-Gar ; to the west, Ben A 1 an and Ben-na-Bhourd,
"the land of Gairn? as they call it, and Muich; and
Deeside in the foreground. It was enchanting ! We
walked down to where we had lunched, and rode to the
bottom. Here we found a fire, also tea with cakes, &c.,
which had been very kindly prepared for us by a lady and
gentleman, the daughter and son of Sir J. G. Ratcliff,
living in the shooting-lodge. We drank the tea, and left
in the carriage at half-past six o'clock, reaching Balmoral
at half-past seven. So sad not to find my darling Husband
at home.
THE PRINCE'S RETURN FROM ABERDEEN.
September 15, 1859.
I heard by telegram last night that Albert's reception
was admirable, and that all was going off as well as
possible. Thank God. I ascended Loch-na-Gar with
Alice, Helena, Bertie, Lady Churchill, Colonel Bruce,
and our usual attendants, and returned after six o'clock.
At ten minutes past seven arrived my beloved Albert.
All had gone off most admirably; he had seen many
learned people; all were delighted with his speech;
the reception most gratifying. Banchory House (Mr.
Thomson's) where he lodged (four miles from Aberdeen]
was, he said, very comfortable.
FETE TO THE MEMBERS OF THE BRITISH
ASSOCIATION.
September 22, 1859.
The morning dawned brightly. Suddenly a very high
wind arose which alarmed us, but yet it looked bright,
and we hoped the wind would keep off the rain ; but
after breakfast, while watching the preparations, showers
began, and from half-past eleven a fearful down-pour,
with that white curtain-like appearance which is so
alarming; and this lasted till half-past twelve. I was
in despair ; but at length it began to clear, just as the
neighbours with their families, and some of the farmers
opposite (the Herrons, Duncans, Brown's father and
brothers) arrived, and then came the huge omnibuses
and carriages laden with " philosophers." At two o'clock
we were all ready. Albert and the boys were in their
kilts, and I and the girls in royal Stuart skirts and shawls
over black velvet bodies.
It was a beautiful sight in spite % of the frequent slight
showers which at first tormented us, and the very high
cold wind. There were gleams of sunshine, which, with
the Highlanders in their brilliant and picturesque dresses,
the wild notes of the pipes, the band, and the beautiful
background of mountains rendered the scene wild and
striking in the extreme. The Farquharson's men headed
by Colonel Farquharson, the Duff's by Lord Fife, and
the Forbes's men by Sir Charles Forbes, had all marched
on the ground before we came out, and were drawn
up just opposite to us, and the spectators (the people of
the country) behind them. We stood on the terrace,
the company near us, and the " savants," also, on either
side of us, and along the slopes, on the grounds. The
games began about three o'clock :
1. " Throwing the Hammer."
2. " Tossing the Caber."
3. " Putting the Stone."
We gave prizes to the three best in each of the games.
We walked along the terrace to the large marquee,
talking to the people, to where the men were " putting
the stone." After this returned to the upper terrace, to
see the race, a pretty wild sight ; but the men looked
very cold, with nothing but their shirts and kilts on ;
they ran beautifully. They wrapped plaids round them-
selves, and then came to receive the prizes from me.
Last of all came the dancing reels and " Ghillie
Callum." The latter the judges could not make up
their minds about ; it was danced over and over again ;
and at last they left out the best dancer of all ! They
said he danced " too well ! " The dancing over, we left
amid the loud cheers of the people. It was then about
half-past five. We watched from the window the
Highlanders marching away, the different people walking
off, and four weighty omnibuses filling with the scientific
men. We saw, and talked to, Professor Owen, Sir
David Brewster, Sir John Bowring, Mr. J. Roscoe, and
Sir John Ross.*
* During the Fete, we heard from Sir R. Murchison and others
that news had been received this morning of the finding of poor Sir
John Franklin's remains or, rather, of the things belonging to him
and his party.
When almost all were gone, we took a short walk
to warm ourselves. Much pleased at everything having
gone off well. The Duke of Richmond, Sir R. Murchi-
son, General Sabine, Mr. Thomson of B anchor y House,
and Professor Phillipps, Secretary of the Association, all
of whom slept here, were additions to the dinner-party.
I sat between our cousin Philip (Count of Flanders) and
the Duke of Richmond. All the gentlemen spoke in
very high terms of my beloved Albert's admirable speech,
the good it had done, and the general satisfaction it had
caused.
We could see the fire of the Forbes's encampment on
the opposite side.
EXPEDITION TO INCHRORY.
September 30, 1859.
At twenty minutes past eleven we started with Helena
and Louise in the sociable, Grant on the box, for Loch
Bulig, passing the farms of Blairglass and of Dall Dounie,
and the shooting-lodge of Corndavon, ten miles distant.
Here we found our ponies (mine being " Victoria "), and
rode along the edge of the lake, up a beautiful glen by a
path winding through the valley, which appeared fre-
quently closed. We then rode along a small river or
burn, of which no one knew the name ; none of our
party having ever been there before. The hills were
sprinkled with birch-trees, and there was grass below in
the valley ; we saw deer. As we approached Inchrory (a
shooting-lodge of Lord H. Bentinck's) the scenery became
finer and finer, reminding us of Glen Tilt, and was most
beautiful at Inchrory, with the fine broad water of the
Avon flowing down from the mountains.
We inquired of the people at Inchrory whether there
was any way of getting round over the hills by Gairn
Shiel, and they said there was ; but that the distance was
about ii miles. Neither Grant nor Brown had been
that way. However we accepted it at once, and I was
delighted to go on a Vimproviste, travelling about in
these enchanting hills in this solitude, with only our
good Highlanders with us, who never make difficulties,
but are cheerful, and happy, and merry, and ready to
walk, and run, and do anything. So on we went, turning
up above Inchrory by a winding road between hillocks
and commanding a glorious view towards Laganaul.
Here, on a little grassy knoll, we lunched in a splendid
position.
After our luncheon, and walking a little way, we
remounted, and proceeded by the so-called " Brown
Cow" (on the other side of which we had driven), over a
moor, meeting a shepherd, out of whom Grant could get
little information. Soon we came to corn-fields in the
valley ; passed Favanche and Inchmore, and got on to a
good road, on which Brown and Grant " travelled " at
a wonderful pace, upwards of five miles an hour without
stopping ; and the former with that vigorous, light, elastic
tread which is quite astonishing. We passed Dal-na-
Damph Shiel (a shooting-lodge of Sir Charles Forbes) ;
and went along the old " Military Road," leaving Cock-
bridge, a small straggling " toun," which is on the road to
Inverness, to our left, and the old Castle of Corgarf to
our right. We looked over into Donside. The road was
soon left for a mountain one in the hills, above one of
the tributary streams of the Don, and was wild and
desolate ; we passed Dal Chcupar and Dal Vown, and,
as we ascended, we saw Tornahoish, at a distance to the
left. After going along this hill-track, over some poor
and tottering bridges, we joined the road by which we
had driven to Tornahoish. It was fast getting dark, but
was very fine. I and the girls got off and walked sharply
some little distance. Albert had walked further on,
Grant riding his pony meantime. P. Robertson and
Kennedy, besides those I have named, carried the basket
alternately.
We remounted our ponies, and Brown led mine on at
an amazing pace up the Glaschoil Hill, and we finally
reached Gairu Skid after seven, quite in the dark.
There, at the small public-house, we found the carriage,
and drove off as soon as we could ; the ponies were to
be given half a feed, and then to come on. We had to
drive home very slowly, as the road is not good, and
very steep in parts.
A mild night. Home by ten minutes past eight,
enchanted with our day. How I wish we could travel
about in this way, and see all the wild spots in the
Highlands ! We had gone 35 miles, having ridden 19
and a half ! The little girls were in great glee the whole
time.
130
ASCENT OF BEN MUICH DHUI.
Friday, October 7, 1859.
Breakfast at half-past eight. At ten minutes to nine
we started, in the sociable, with Bertie and Alice and our
usual attendants. Drove along the opposite side of the
river. The day very mild and promising to be fine,
though a little heavy over the hills, which we anxiously
watched. At Castleton we took four post-horses, and
drove to the Shiel of the Derry, that beautiful spot where
we were last year which Albert had never seen and
arrived there just before eleven. Our ponies were there
with Kennedy, Robertson, and Jemmie Smith. One
pony carried the luncheon-baskets. After all the cloaks,
&c. had been placed on the ponies, or carried by the
men, we mounted and began our "journey." I was on
"Victoria," Alice on "Dobbins." George Me Hardy, an
elderly man who knew the country (and acts as a guide,
carrying luggage for people across the hills " on beasts "
which he keeps for that purpose), led the way. We
rode (my pony being led by Brown most of the time
both going up and down) at least four miles up Glen
Derry, which is very fine, with the remnants of a splendid
forest, Cairn Derry being to the right, and the Derry
Water running below. The track was very bad and
stony, and broken up by cattle coming down for the
"Tryst." At the end of the glen we crossed a ford,
passed some softish ground, and turned up to the left
by a very rough, steep, but yet gradual ascent to Corrie
Etchan, which is in a very wild rugged spot, with mag-
nificent precipices, a high mountain to the right called
Ben Main, while to the left was Cairngorm of Derry.
When we reached the top of this very steep ascent (we
had been rising, though almost imperceptibly, from the
Derry Shiel,} we came upon a loch of the same name,
which reminded us of Loch-na-Gar and of Loch-na-Nian.
You look from here on to other wild hills and corries
on Ben A'an, &c. We ascended very gradually, but
became so enveloped in mist that we could see nothing
hardly those just before us ! Albert had walked a
good deal ; and it was very cold. The mist got worse ;
and as we rode along the stony, but almost flat ridge of
JBen Mutch Dhui, we hardly knew whether we were on
level ground or the top of the mountain. However, I
and Alice rode to the very top, which we reached a few
minutes past two; and here, at a cairn of stones, we
lunched, in a piercing cold wind.
Just as we sat down, a gust of wind came and dispersed
the mist, which had a most wonderful effect, like a dis-
solving view and exhibited the grandest, wildest scenery
imaginable ! We sat on a ridge of the cairn to take our
luncheon, our good people being grouped with the
ponies near us. Luncheon over, Albert ran off with
Alice to the ridge to look at the splendid view, and sent
for me to follow. I did so; but not without Grant's
help, for there were quantities of large loose stones
heaped up together to walk upon. The wind was fear-
fully high, but the view was well worth seeing. I cannot
describe all, but we saw where the Dee rises between the
mountains called the Well of Dee Ben-y-Ghlo and the
adjacent mountains, Ben Vrackie then Ben-na-Bhourd
( '32 )
Ben A'an, &c. and such magnificent wild rocks, pre-
cipices, and corries. It had a sublime and solemn effect ;
so wild, so solitary no one but ourselves and our little
party there.
Albert went on further with the children, but I returned
with Grant to my seat on the cairn, as I could not scram-
ble about well. Soon after, we all began walking and
looking for "cairngorms," and found some small ones.
The mist had entirely cleared away below, so that we
saw all the beautiful views. Ben Muich Dhui is 4,297
feet high, one of the highest mountains in Scotland. I
and Alice rode part of the way, walking wherever it was
very steep. Albert and Bertie walked the whole time.
I had a little whisky and water, as the people declared
pure water would be too chilling. We then rode on
without getting off again, Albert talking so gaily with
Grant. Upon which Brown observed to me in simple
Highland phrase, " It's very pleasant to walk with a
"person who is always ' content.'" Yesterday, in
speaking of dearest Albert's sport, when I observed
he never was cross after bad luck, Brown 'said,
" Every one on the estate says there never was so kind
" a master ; I am sure our only wish is to give satis-
" faction." I said, they certainly did.*
By a quarter-past six o'clock we got down to the S/iiel
of the Derry, where we found some tea, which we took
in the " shiel,"f and started again by moonlight at about
half-past six. We reached Castleton at half-past seven
* We were always in the habit of conversing with the High-
landerswith whom one comes so much in contact in the Highlands.
The Prince highly appreciated the good-breeding, simplicity, and
intelligence, which make it so pleasant and even instructive to talk
to them.
f " Shiel " means a small shooting-lodge.
( '33 )
and after this it became cloudy. At a quarter-past eight
precisely we were at Balmoral, much delighted and not
at all tired ; everything had been so well arranged, and
so quietly, without any fuss. Never shall I forget this
day, or the impression this very grand scene made upon
me ; truly sublime and impressive ; such solitude.
( 134 )
FIRST GREAT EXPEDITION : To GLEN FISHIE
AND GRANTOWN.
Hotel Grantown, Tuesday, September 4, 1860.
Arrived this evening after a most interesting tour; I
will recount the events of the day. Breakfasted at
Balmoral in our own room at half-past seven o'clock,
and started at eight or a little past, with Lady Churchill
and General Grey, in the sociable (Grant and Brown on
the box as usual), for Castleton, where we changed horses.
We went on five miles beyond the Linn of Dee, to the
Shepherd's Shiel of Geldie, or, properly speaking, Giuly,
where we found our ponies and a guide, Charlie Stewart.
We mounted at once, and rode up along the Geldie,
which we had to ford frequently to avoid the bogs, and
rode on for two hours up Glen Geldie, over a moor which
was so soft and boggy in places, that we had to get off
several times. The hills were wild, but not very high,
bare of trees, and even of heather to a great extent, and
not picturesque till we approached the Fishie, and turned
to the right up to the glen which we could see in the
distance. The Fishie and Geldie rise almost on a level,
with very little distance between them. The Fishie is a
fine rapid stream, full of stones. As you approach the
glen, which is very narrow, the scenery becomes very
fine particularly after fording the Etchart, a very deep
ford. Grant, on his pony, led me through : our men on
foot took off their shoes and stockings to get across.
From this point the narrow path winds along the base of
the hills of Craig-na-Go'ar the rocks of the "Goat
" Craig ; " Craig-na- Caillach ; and Stron-na-Barin
" the nose of the queen." The rapid river is overhung
by rocks, with trees, birch and fir; the hills, as you
advance, rise very steeply on both sides, with rich rocks
and corries, and occasional streamlets falling from very
high while the path winds along, rising gradually higher
and higher. It is quite magnificent !
We stopped when we came to a level spot amongst the
trees. The native firs are particularly fine ; and the whole
is grand in the extreme. We lunched here a charming
spot at two o'clock; and then pursued our journey.
We walked on a little way to where the valley and glen
widen out, and where there is what they call here a green
"hard." We got on our ponies again and crossed the
Fishie (a stream we forded many times in the course of
the day) to a place where the finest fir-trees are, amidst
some of the most beautiful scenery possible.
Then we came upon a most lovely spot the scene of
all Landseer's glory and where there is a little encamp-
ment of wooden and turf huts, built by the late Duchess
of Bedford ; now no longer belonging to the family, and,
alas ! all falling into decay among splendid fir-trees, the
mountains rising abruptly from the sides of the valley.
We were quite enchanted with the beauty of the view.
This place is about seven miles from the mouth of the
Fishie. Emerging from the wood we came upon a good
road, with low hills, beautifully heather-coloured, to the
left ; those to the right, high and wooded, with noble
corries and waterfalls.
We met Lord and Lady Alexander Russell at a small
farm-house, just as we rode out of the wood, and had
some talk with them. They feel deeply the ruin of the
place where they formerly lived, as it no longer belongs
to them. We rode on for a good long distance, 12
miles, till we came to the ferry of the Spey. Deer were
being driven in the woods, and we heard several shots.
We saw fine ranges of hills on the Speyside, or Strathspey,
and opening to our left, those near Loch Laggan. We
came to a wood of larch ; from that, upon cultivated
land, with Kinrara towards our right, where the monu-
ment to the late Duke of Gordon is conspicuously seen
on a hill, which was perfectly crimson with heather.
Before entering the larch wood, Lord Alexander Russell
caught us up again in a little pony carriage, having to go
the same way, and he was so good as to explain everything
to us. He showed us " The Duke of Argyll's Stone " a
cairn on the top of a hill to our right, celebrated, as
seems most probable, from the Marquis of Argyll having
halted there with his army. We came to another larch
wood, when I and Lady Churchill got off our ponies, as
we were very stiff from riding so long; and at the end of"
this wood we came upon Loch Inch, which is lovely, and
of which I should have liked exceedingly to have taken a
sketch, but we were pressed for time and hurried. The
light was lovely ; and some cattle were crossing a narrow
strip of grass across the end of the loch nearest to us,
which really made a charming picture. It is not a wild
lake, quite the contrary ; no high rocks, but woods and
blue hills as a background. About a mile from this was
the ferry. There we parted from our ponies, only Grant
and Brown coming on with us. Walker, the police
inspector, met us, but did not keep with us. He had
been sent to order everything in a quiet way, without
letting people suspect who we were : in this he entirely
succeeded. The ferry was a very rude affair; it was like
( 137 )
a boat or coble, but we could only stand on it, and it was
moved at one end by two long oars, plied by the ferryman
and Brown, and at the other end by a long sort of beam,
which Grant took in hand. A few seconds brought us
over to the road, where there were two shabby vehicles,
one a kind of barouche, into which Albert and I got,
Lady Churchill and General Grey into the other a break ;
each with a pair of small and rather miserable horses,
driven by a man from the box. Grant was on our carriage,
and Brown on the other. We had gone so far 40 miles,
at least 20 on horseback. We had decided to call our-
selves Lord and Lady Churchill and party, Lady Churchill
passing as Miss Spencer, and General Grey as Dr. Grey!
Brown once forgot this, and called me " Your Majesty"
as I was getting into the carriage ; and Grant on the box
once called Albert " Your Royal Highness ; " which set
us off laughing, but no one observed it.
We had a long three hours' drive ; it was six o'clock
when we got into the carriage. We were soon out of the
wood, and came upon the Badenoch road passing close
by Kinrara, but unfortunately not through it, which we
ought to have done. It was very beautiful fine wooded
( 138 )
hills the high Cairngorm range, and Ben Muich DJmi,
unfortunately much obscured by the mist on. the top and
the broad Spey flowing in the valley, with cultivated fields
and fine trees below. Most striking, however, on our
whole long journey was the utter, and to me very refresh-
ing, solitude. Hardly a habitation ! and hardly meeting
a soul ! It gradually grew dark. We stopped at a small
half-way house for the horses to take some water; and
the few people about stared vacantly at the two simple
vehicles.
The mountains gradually disappeared, the evening
was mild, with a few drops of rain. On and on we went,
till at length we saw lights, and drove through a long and
straggling "toun," and turned down a small court to the
door of the inn. Here we got out quickly Lady Churchill
and General Grey not waiting for us. We went up a
small staircase, and were shown to our bed-room at the
top of it very small, but clean with a large four-post
bed which nearly filled the whole room. Opposite was
the drawing and dining-room in one very tidy and well-
sized. Then came the room where Albert dressed, which
was very small. The two maids (Jane Shackle * was with
me) had driven over by another road in the waggonette,
Stewart driving them. Made ourselves " clean and tidy,"
and then sat down to our dinner. Grant and Brown were
to have waited on us, but were " bashful " and did not.
A ringletted woman did everything; and, when dinner
was over, removed the cloth and placed the bottle of wine
(our own which we had brought) on the table with the
glasses, which was the old English fashion. The dinner
was very fair, and all very clean : soup, " hodge-podge,"
mutton-broth with vegetables, which I did not much relish,
* One of my wardrobe-maids, and daughter to the Page mentioned
earlier.
( 139 )
fowl with white sauce, good roast lamb, very good potatoes,
besides one or two other dishes, which I did not taste,
ending with a good tart of cranberries. After dinner, I
tried to write part of this account (but the talking round
me confused me), while Albert played at "patience."
Then went away, to begin undressing, and it was about
half-past eleven when we got to bed.
Wednesday, September 5.
A misty, rainy morning. Had not slept very soundly.
We got up rather early, and sat working and reading in
the drawing-room till the breakfast was ready, for which
we had to wait some little time. Good tea and bread
and butter, and some excellent porridge. Jane Shackle
(who was very useful and attentive) said that they had
all supped together, namely, the two maids, and Grant,
Brown, Stewart, and Walker (who was still there), and
were very merry in the " commercial room." The people
were very amusing about us. The woman came in while
they were at their dinner, and said to Grant, " Dr. Grey
wants you," which nearly upset the gravity of all the
others : then they told Jane, " Your lady gives no
trouble ; " and Grant in the morning called up to Jane,
" Does his lordship want me ? " One could look on the
street, ^ which is a very long wide one, with detached
houses, from our window. It was perfectly quiet, no one
stirring, except here and there a man driving a cart, or a
boy going along on his errand. General Grey bought
himself a watch in a shop for 2/. !
At length, at about ten minutes to ten o'clock, we
started in the same carriages and the same way as
yesterday, and drove up to Castle Grant, Lord Seafield's
place, a fine (not Highland-looking) park, with a very
plain-looking house, like a factory, about two miles from
the town. It was drizzling almost the whole time. We
did not get out, but drove back, having to pass through
Grantown again ; where evidently " the murder was out,"
for all the people were in the street, and the landlady
waved her pocket-handkerchief, and the ringletted maid
(who had curl-papers in the morning) waved a flag from
the window. Our coachman evidently did not observe
or guess anything. As we drove out of the town, turning
to our right through a wood, we met many people coming
into the town, which the coachman said was for a funeral.
We passed over the Spey, by the Bridge of Spey. It
continued provokingly rainy, the mist hanging very low
on the hills, which, however, did not seem to be very
high, but were pink with heather. W T e stopped to have
the cover of leather put over our carriage, which is the
fashion of all the flys here. It keeps out the rain, how-
ever, very well.
The first striking feature in this country is the Pass of
Dal D/iu, above which the road winds, a steep corrie,
with green hills. W T e stopped at a small inn, with only
one other house near it ; and here the poor wretchedly-
jaded horses got a little water, and waited for about ten
minutes. Further on we came to a very steep hill, also
to a sort of pass, called Glen Bruin, with green hills,
evidently of slate formation. Here we got out, and
walked down the hill, and over the Bridge of Bruin, and
partly up another hill, the road winding amazingly after
this up and down hill. We then came in sight of the
Avon, winding below the hills ; and again got out at a
little wood, before the Bridge of Avon; the river is fine
and clear here. We re-entered our carriages (Lady
Churchill and I for this short time together), and drove
about a mile further up a hill to Tomintoul; our poor
horses being hardly able to drag themselves any longer,
( '41 )
the man whipping them and whistling to them to go on,
which they could not, and I thought every instant that
they would stop in the village. We took four hours to
drive these 14 miles ; for it was two o'clock when we
were outside the town, and got out to mount our ponies.
Tomintoul is the most tumble-down, poor-looking place
I ever saw a long street with three inns, miserable dirty-
looking houses and people, and a sad look of wretchedness
about it. Grant told me that it was the dirtiest, poorest
village in the whole of the Highlands.
We mounted our ponies a short way out of the town,
but only rode for a few minutes as it was past two o'clock.
We came upon a beautiful view, looking down upon the
Avon and up a fine glen. There we rested and took
luncheon. While Brown was unpacking and arranging
our things, I spoke to him and to Grant, who was helping,
about not having waited on us, as they ought to have
done, at dinner last night and at breakfast, as we had
wished ; and Brown answered, he was afraid he should
not do it rightly ; I replied we did not wish to have
a stranger in the room, and they must do so another
time.
Luncheon (provisions for which we had taken with us
from home yesterday) finished, we started again, walked
a little way, till we were overtaken by the men and
ponies, and then rode along Avonside, the road winding
at the bottom of the glen, which is in part tolerably wide ;
but narrows as it turns, and winds round towards Inckrory,
where it is called Glen Avon. The hills, sloping down to
the river side, are beautifully green. It was very muggy
quite oppressive, and the greater part of the road deep
and sloppy, till we came upon the granite formation'
again. In order to get on, as it was late, and we had
eight miles to ride, our men, at least Brown and two of
the others, walked before us at a fearful pace, so that
we had to trot to keep up at all. Grant rode frequently
on the deer pony ; the others seemed, however, a good
deal tired with the two long days' journey, and were glad
to get on Albert's or the General's pony to give them-
selves a lift ; but their willingness, readiness, cheerfulness,
indefatigableness, are very admirable, and make them
most delightful servants. As for Grant and Brown they
are perfect discreet, careful, intelligent, attentive, ever
ready to do what is wanted ; and the latter, particularly,
is handy and willing to do everything and anything, and
to overcome every difficulty, which makes him one of my
best servants anywhere.
We passed by Inchrory seeing, as we approached,
two eagles towering splendidly above, and alighting on the
top of the hills. From Inchrory, we rode to Loch Bulig,
which was beautifully lit up by the setting sun. From
Tomintoul we escaped all real rain, having only a slight
sprinkling every now and then. At Loch Bulig we found
our carriage and four ponies, and drove back just as we
left yesterday morning, reaching Balmoral safely at half-
past seven.
What a delightful, successful expedition ! Dear Lady
Churchill was, as usual, thoroughly amiable, cheerful, and
ready to do everything. Both she and the General
seemed entirely to enjoy it, and enter into it, and so I am
sure did our people. To my dear Albert do we owe it,
for he always thought it would be delightful, having gone
on many similar expeditions in former days himself. He
enjoyed it very much. We heard since that the secret
came out through a man recognizing Albert in the street
yesterday morning ; then the crown on the dog-cart made
them think that it was some one from Balmoral, .though
they never suspected that it could be ourselves ! " The
( 143 )
lady must be terrible rich," the woman observed, as I had
so many gold rings on my fingers ! I told Lady Churchill
she had on many more than I had. When they heard
who it was, they were ready to drop with astonishment
and fright. I fear I have but poorly recounted this very
amusing and never to be forgotten expedition, which will
always be remembered with delight.
I must pay a tribute to our ponies. Dear " Fyvie " is
perfection, and Albert's equally excellent.
SECOND GREAT EXPEDITION : To INVERMARK
AND FETTERCAIRN.
Friday, September 20, 1861.
Looked anxiously at the weather at seven o'clock
there had been a little rain, there was still mist on the
hills, and it looked doubtful. However, Albert said it
would be best to keep to the original arrangements, and
so we got up early, and by eight the sun shone, aud the
mist began to lift everywhere. We breakfasted at half-
past eight, and at half-past nine we started in two
sociables Alice and Louis* with us in the first, and
Grant on the box ; Lady Churchill and General Grey in
the second, and Brown on the box. We drove to the
Bridge of Muich, where we found our six ponies, and five
gillies (J. Smith, J. Morgan, Kennedy, C. Stewart, and
S. Campbell). We rode up the peat-road over the hill of
Polach and down it again for about four miles, and then
came to a very soft bit ; but still with careful management
we avoided getting into any of the bogs, and I remained
on my pony all the time. Albert and Louis had to get
off and walk for about two hundred yards. The hills of
Loch-na-Gar were very hazy, but Mount Keen was in great
beauty before us, and as we came down to the Glen of
Corrie Vruach, and looked down Glen Tanar, the scenery
* Prince Louis of Hesse.
was grand and wild. Mount Keen is a curious conical-
shaped hill, with a deep corrie in it. It is nearly 3,200
feet high, and we had a very steep rough ascent over
the shoulder, after crossing the Tanar Water. It was
six and a half miles from the Bridge of Muich to Corrie
Vruach.
When we were on the level ground again, where it was
hard and dry, we all got off and walked on over the
shoulder of the hill. We had not gone far when we
descried Lord Dalhousie (whom General Grey had in
confidence informed of our coming) on a pony. He
welcomed us on the border of his "March," got off his
pony and walked with us. After walking some little time
Alice and I remounted our ponies, (Albert riding some
part of the time,) and turnedto the left, when we came
in sight of a new country, and looked down a very fine
glen Gleu Mark. We descended by a very steep but
winding path, called The Ladder, very grand and wild :
the water running through it is called The Ladder Burn.
It is very fine indeed, and very striking. There is a
small forester's lodge at the very foot of it. The pass is
quite a narrow one ; you wind along a very steep and
rough path, but still it was quite easy to ride on it, as it
zigzags along. We crossed the burn at the bottom, where
a picturesque group of " shearers " were seated, chiefly
women, the older ones smoking. They were returning
from the south to the north, whence they came. We
rode up to the little cottage ; and in a little room of a
regular Highland cabin, with its usual "press bed," we
had luncheon. This place is called Invennark, and is
four and a half miles from Corrie Vruach. After luncheon
I sketched the fine view. The steep hill we came down
immediately opposite the keeper's lodge is called Craig
Boestock, and a very fine isolated craggy hill which rises
10
to the left over-topping a small and wild glen i
the Hill of Doun.
We mounted our ponies a little after three, and rode
down Glen Mark, stopping to drink some water out of a
very pure well, called The White Well ; and crossing the
Mark several times. As we approached the Manse of
Loch Lee, the glen widened, and the old Castle of Inver-
mark came out extremely well; and, surrounded by
woods and corn-fields, in which the people were " shear-
ing," looked most picturesque. We turned to the right,
and rode up to the old ruined castle, which is half covered
with ivy. We then rode up to Lord Dalhousie's shooting-
lodge, where we dismounted. It is a new and very
pretty house, built of granite, in a very fine position over-
looking the glen, with wild hills at the back. Miss Maule
(now Lady C. Maule) was there. We passed through
the drawing-room, and went on a few yards to the end of
a walk whence you see Loch Lee, a wild, but not large,
lake closed in by mountains with a farm-house and a
few cottages at its edge. The hall and dining-room are
very prettily fitted up with trophies of sport, and the walls
panelled with light wood. We had a few of the very
short showers which hung about the hills. We then got
into our carriages. The carriage we were in was a sort
of double dog-cart which could carry eight but was very
narrow inside. We drove along the glen down by the
Northesk (the Ey and Mark meeting become the North-
esk}, passing to the right another very pretty glen Glen
Effach, much wooded, and the whole landscape beautifully
lit up. Before us all was light and bright, and behind
the mist and rain seemed to come down heavily over the
mountains.
Further on we passed Poul Skehmie Bridge and Tarf
Bridge, both regular steep Highland bridges. To the
( 147 )
right of the latter there is a new Free Kirk further on
Captain Wemyss's Retreat, a strange-looking place, to
the left Mill Dane and, on a small eminence, the Castle
of Audi Mill, which now resembles an old farm-house,
but has traces of a terrace garden remaining. The hills
round it and near the road to the left were like small
mounds. A little further on again we came to a wood,
where we got out and walked along The Burn, Major
Mclnroy's. The path winds along through the wood just
above this most curious narrow gorge, which is unlike
any of the other lynns ; the rocks are very peculiar, and
the burn very narrow, with deep pools completely over-
hung by wood. It extends some way. The woods and
grounds might be in Wales, or even in Hawthornden.
We walked through the wood and a little way along the
road, till the carriages overtook us. We had three miles
further to drive to Fettercairn, in all 40 miles from
Balmoral. We came upon a flat country, evidently much
cultivated, but it was too dark to see anything.
At a quarter-past seven o'clock we reached the small
quiet town, or rather village, of Fettercairn, for it was
very small not a creature stirring, and we got out at the
quiet little inn, " Ramsay Arms," quite unobserved, and
went at once upstairs. There was a very nice drawing-
room, and next to it, a dining-room, both very clean and
tidy then to the left our bed-room, which was exces-
sively small, but also very clean and neat, and much
better furnished than at Grantown. Alice had a nice
room, the same size as ours ; then came a mere morsel
of one, (with a "press bed,") in which Albert dressed;
and then came Lady Churchill's bed-room just beyond.
Louis and General Grey had rooms in an hotel, called
" The Temperance Hotel," opposite. We dined at eight,
a very nice, clean, good dinner. Grant and Brown
( 148 )
waited. They were rather nervous, but General Grey
and Lady Churchill carved, and they had only to change
the plates, which Brown soon got into the way of doing.
A little girl of the house came in to help but Grant
turned her round to prevent her looking at us ! The
landlord and landlady knew who we were, but no one else
except the coachman, and they kept the secret admirably.
The evening being bright and moonlight and very still,
we all went out, and walked through the whole village,
where not a creature moved ; through the principal little
square, in the middle of which was a sort of pillar or
Town Cross on steps, and Louis read, by the light of the
moon, a proclamation for collections of charities which
was stuck on it. We walked on along a lane a short
way, hearing nothing whatever not a leaf moving but
the distant barking of a dog ! Suddenly we heard a drum
and fifes ! We were greatly alarmed, fearing we had been
recognized ; but Louis and General Grey, who went back,
saw nothing whatever. Still, as we walked slowly back,
we heard the noise from time to time, and when we
reached the inn door we stopped, and saw six men march
up with fifes and a drum (not a creature taking any notice
of them), go down the street, and back again. Grant
and Brown were out ; but had no idea what it could be.
Albert asked the little maid, and the answer was, "It's
just a band," and that it walked about in this way twice
a week. How odd ! It went on playing some time
after we got home. We sat till half-past ten working,
and Albert reading, and then retired to rest.
Saturday, September 21.
Got to sleep after two or three o'clock. The morning
was dull and close, and misty with a little rain ; hardly
any one stirring ; but a few people at their work. A
traveller had arrived at night, and wanted to come up
into the dining-room, which is the " commercial travellers'
room ; " and they had difficulty in telling him he could
not stop there. He joined Grant and Brown at their tea,
and on his asking, " What's the matter here ? " Grant
answered, " It's a wedding party from Aberdeen." At
" The Temperance Hotel " they were very anxious to
know whom they had got. All, except General Grey,
breakfasted a little before nine. Brown acted as my
servant, brushing my skirt and boots, and taking any
message, and Grant as Albert's valet.
At a quarter to ten we started the same way as before,
except that we were in the carriage which Lady Churchill
and the General had yesterday. It was unfortunately
misty, and we could see no distance. The people had
just discovered who we were, and a- few cheered us as we
went along. We passed close to Fettercairn, Sir J. Forbes's
house ; then further on to the left, Fasque, belonging to
Sir T. Gladstone, who has evidently done a great deal
for the country, having built many good cottages. We
then came to a very long hill, at least four miles in length,
called the Cairnie Month, whence there is a very fine
view ; but which was entirely obscured by a heavy driving
mist. We walked up part of it, and then for a little while
Alice and I sat alone in the carriage. We next came to
the Spittal Bridge, a curious high bridge with the Dye
Water to the left, and the Spittal Burn to the right.
Sir T. Gladstone's shooting-place is close to the Bridge of
Dye where we changed carriages again, re-entering the
double dog-cart Albert and I inside, and Louis sitting
behind. We went up a hill again and saw Mount Battock
to the north-west, close to Sir T. Gladstone's shooting-
lodge. You then come to an open country, with an
extensive view towards Aberdeen, and to a very deep,
rough ford, where you pass the Feiigh, at a place called
White Stones. It is very pretty and a fine glen with
wood. About two miles further to the north-west, on the
left, is Finzean ; and, a little beyond, is " King Durdun's
Stone," as they call it, by the roadside a large, heavy,
ancient stone, the history of which, however, we have
not yet discovered. Then we passed Mary's Well, to the
left of which is Ballogie House, a fine property belonging
to Mr. Dyce Nicol. The harvest and everything seemed
prosperous, and the country was very pretty. We got
out at a very small village, (where the horses had some
water, for it was a terribly long stage,) and walked a little
way along the road. Alice, Lady Churchill, and I, went
into the house of a tailor, which was very tidy, and the
woman in it most friendly, asking us to rest there ; but
not dreaming who we were.
We drove on again, watching ominous-looking clouds,
which, however, cleared off afterwards. We saw the
woods of Lord Huntly's forest, and the hills which one
sees from the road to Aboyne. Instead of going on to
Aboyne we turned to the left, leaving the Bridge of Aboyne
(which we had not seen before) to the right. A little
beyond this, out of sight of all habitations, we found the
postmaster, with another carriage for us. This was
2 2 miles from Fettercairn. We crossed the Tanar Water,
and drove to the left up Glen Tanar a really beautiful
and richly-wooded glen, between high hills part of Lord
Huntly's forest. We drove on about six miles, and then
stopped, as it was past two, to get our luncheon. The
day kept quite fair in spite of threatening clouds and
( '5' )
gathering mist. The spot where we lunched was very
pretty. This over, we walked on a little, and then got
into the carriages again, and drove to the end of the glen
out of the trees to Eatnoch, on to a keeper's house in
the glen a very lonely place, where our ponies were.
It was about four when we arrived: A wretched idiot
girl was here by herself, as tall as Lady Churchill ; but
a good deal bent, and dressed like a child, with a pina-
fore and short-cut hair. She sat on the ground with her
hands round her knees, rocking herself to and fro and
laughing; she then got up and walked towards us.
General Grey put himself before me, and she went up
to him, and began taking hold of his coat, and putting
her hand into his pockets, which set us all off laughing,
sad as it was. An old man walked up hastily soon after,
and on Lady Churchill asking him if he knew that poor
girl, he said, " Yes, she belongs to me, she has a weak-
ness in her mind ; " and led her off hurriedly.
We walked on a few hundred yards, and then mounted
our ponies a little higher up, and then proceeded across
the other shoulder of the hill we had come down yester-
day crossed the boggy part, and came over the Polach
just as in going. The mist on the distant hills, Mount
Keen, &c., made it feel chilly. Coining down the peat-
road * to the Bridge of Mutch, the view of the valleys of
Muich, Gairn, and Ballater was beautiful. As we went
along I talked frequently with good Grant.
* Grant told me in May, 1862, that, when the Prince stopped
behind with him, looking at the Choils which he intended as a deer-
forest for the Prince of Wales, and giving his directions as to the
planting in Glen Muich, he said to Grant, "You and I maybe
dead and gone before that. " In less than three months, alas ! his
words were verified as regards himself ! He was ever cheerful, but
ever ready and prepared.
We found my dearest Mother's sociable, a fine large
one, which she has left to Albert, waiting to take us back.
It made me very sad, and filled my eyes with tears. Oh,
in the midst of cheerfulness, I feel so sad ! But being
out a great deal here and seeing new and fine scenery,
does me good.
We got back to Balmoral, much pleased with our
expedition, at seven o'clock. We had gone 42 miles
to-day, and 40 yesterday, in all 82.
EXPEDITION TO LOCH AVON.
Saturday, September 28, 1861.
Looked out very anxiously. A doubtful morning ; still
gleams of sunshine burst through the mist, and it seemed
improving all round. We breakfasted at a quarter to
eight, with Alice and Louis, in our sitting-room ; and
started at half-past eight. Louis and Alice with us,
Grant and Brown on the box, as usual. The morning
greatly improved.
We drove along the north side of the river, the day
clearing very much, and becoming really fine. We took
post-horses at Castleton, and drove up to the Derry (the
road up Glen Lide very bad indeed) ; and here we
mounted our ponies, and proceeded the usual way up
Glen Derry, as far as where the path turns up to Loch
Etchan. Instead of going that way, we proceeded straight
on a dreadfully rough, stony road, though not steep, but
rougher than anything we ever rode upon before, and
terrible for the poor horses' feet. We passed by two
little lakes called the Bhoolochans, opposite to where the
glen runs down to Inchrory, and after crossing them,
there was a short boggy bit, where I got off and walked
some way on the opposite side, along the " brae" of the
hill, on the other side of which the loch lies, and then got
on again. It was so saturated with water, that the moss
and grass and everything were soaked, not very pleasant
( '54 )
riding, particularly as it was along the slope of the hill.
We went on and on, nearly two miles from the foot of
this hill, expecting to see the loch, but another low hill
hid it from us, till at length we came in sight of it ; and
nothing could be grander and wilder the rocks are so
grand and precipitous, and the snow on Ben Muich Dhid
had such a fine effect.
We saw the spot at the foot of Loch Etchan to which
we scrambled last year, and looked down upon Loch
Avon. It was very cold and windy. At length, at a
quarter-past two, we sat down behind a large stone a
little above the loch (unfortunately, we could not go to
the extreme end, where the water rushes into it). We
lunched as quickly as we could, and then began walking
back, and crossed the hill higher up than in coming. I
walked for some time, but it was not easy, from the great
wet and the very uneven ground. Good Louis helped
me often ; Albert and Alice running along without assis-
tance. Remounted my pony, which, as well as Albert's,
went beautifully, carefully led by that most attentive of
servants, Brown. I had again to get off before we crossed
by the Dhoolochans ; but after that we rode back the
whole way.
We had the same guide, Charlie Stewart, who took us
to Glen Fishie last year, and who walks wonderfully. We
had two slight showers going down, and saw that there
had been much more rain below. We found the Ford of the
Derry very deep, nearly up to the ponies' girths ; and the
roughness and stoniness of the road is beyond everything,
but the ponies picked their way like cats. We were down
at the Derry by nearly six o'clock ; the distance to Loch
Avon being ten miles. Found our carriages there : it
was already getting darkish, but still it was quite light
enough to enable the post-boys to see their way.
( '55 )
At the bridge at Mar Lodge, Brown lit the lanterns.
We gave him and Grant our plaids to put on, as we
always do when they have walked a long way with us and
drive afterwards. We took our own horses at Castleton,
and reached Balmoral at ten minutes past eight, much
pleased with the success of our expedition, and really not
tired. We dined en famillc.
THIRD GREAT EXPEDITION : To GLEN FISHIE,
DALWHINNIE, AND BLAIR ATHOLE.
Tuesday, October 8, 1861.
The morning was dull and rather overcast ; however,
we decided to go. General Grey had gone on before.
We three ladies drove in the sociable : Albert and
Louis in a carriage from Castleton. The clouds looked
heavy and dark, though not like mist hanging on the
mountains. Down came a heavy shower ; but before we
reached Castleton it cleared ; blue sky appeared ; and, as
there was much wind, Grant thought all would be well,
and the day very fine. Changed horses at Castleton, and
drove beyond the Linn of Dee to the Giuly or Geldie
Water just where last year we mounted our ponies, 18
miles from Balmoral. Here we found our ponies
"Inchrory" for me, and a new pony for Alice a tall
grey one, ugly but safe. The others rode their usual
ones. The same guide, Charlie Stewart, was there, and a
pony for the luncheon panniers, and a spare one for
Grant and others to ride in turn.
We started about ten minutes past eleven, and pro-
ceeded exactly as last year, fording the Geldie at first
very frequently. The ground was wet, but not worse
than last year. We had gone on very well for about
an hour, when the mist thickened all round, and
( 157 )
down came heavy, or at least beating, rain with wind.
With the help of an umbrella, and waterproofs and a
plaid, I kept quite dry. Dearest Albert, who walked
from the time the ground became boggy, got very wet,
but was none the worse for it, and we got through it
much better than before ; we ladies never having to get
off our ponies. At length at two o'clock, just as we were
entering that beautiful Glen Fishie, which at its commence-
ment reminds one of The Burn (Mclnroy's), it cleared and
became quite fine and very mild. Brown waded through
the Etchart leading my pony ; and then two of the others,
who were riding together on another pony, dropped the
whole bundle of cloaks into the water !
The falls of the Stron-na-Barin, with that narrow steep
glen, which you ride up, crossing at the bottom, were in
great beauty. We stopped before we entered the wood,
and lunched on the bank overhanging the river, where
General Grey joined us, and gave us an account of his
arrangements. We lunched rather hurriedly, remounted
our ponies and rode a short way till we came near to a
very steep place, not very pleasant to ride. So fine !
numberless little burns running down in cascades. We
walked a short way, and then remounted our ponies ; but
as we were to keep on the other side of the river, not by
the Invereshie huts, we had to get off for a few hundred
yards, the path being so narrow as to make it utterly un-
safe to ride. Alice's pony already began to slip. The
huts, surrounded by magnificent fir-trees, and by quantities
of juniper-bushes, looked lovelier than ever ; and we
gazed with sorrow at their utter ruin. I felt what a
delightful little encampment it must have been, and how
enchanting to live in such a spot as this beautiful solitary
wood in a glen surrounded by the high hills. We got off,
and went into one of the huts to look at a fresco of stags
of Landseer's, over a chimney-piece. Grant, on a pony,
led me through the Fishie (all the fords are deep) at the
foot of the farm-houses, where we met Lord and Lady
Alexander Russell last year and where we this time found
two carriages. We dismounted and entered them, and
were off at five o'clock we were to have started at four.
We four drove together by the same way as we rode
last year (and nothing could be rougher for driving), quite
to the second wood, which led us past Loch Inch; but we
turned short of the loch to the left along the high road.
Unfortunately by this time it was nearly dark, and we
therefore lost a great deal of the fine scenery. We had
ridden 15 miles. We drove along the road over several
bridges the Bridge of Carr, close below the ruined Castle
of Ruthven, which we could just descry in the dusk and
on a long wooden bridge over the Spey to an inn at
Kingussie, a very straggling place with very few cottages.
Already, before we arrived there, we were struck by people
standing at their cottage doors, and evidently looking out,
which made us believe we were expected. At Kingussie
there was a small, curious, chattering crowd of people
who, however, did not really make us out, but evidently
suspected who we were. Grant and Brown kept them off
the carriages, and gave them evasive answers, directing
them to the wrong carriage, which was most amusing.
One old gentleman, with a high wide-awake, was especi-
ally inquisitive.
We started again, and went on and on, passing
through the village of Newtonmoore, where the footman
McDonald* comes from. Here the Spey is crossed at
its junction with the Truim, and then the road ascends
* He died at Abergeldie last year of consumption ; and his widow,
an excellent person, daughter of Mitchell the blacksmith at Balmoral,
is now my wardrobe-maid.
( '59 )
for ten miles more to Dalwhinnie. It became cold and
windy with occasional rain. At length, and not till a
quarter to nine, we reached the inn of Dalwhinnie,
29 miles from where we had left our ponies, which
stands by itself, away from any village. Here, again,
there were a few people assembled, and I thought they
knew us ; but it seems they did not, and it was only
when we arrived that one of the maids recognized me.
She had seen me at Aberdeen and Edinburgh. We went
upstairs : the inn was much larger than at Fettercairn,
but not nearly so nice and cheerful ; there was a drawing-
room and a dining-room ; and we had a very good-sized
bedroom. Albert had a dressing-room of equal size.
Mary Andrews* (who was very useful and efficient) and
Lady Churchill's maid had a room together, every one
being in the house ; but unfortunately there was hardly
anything to eat, and there was only tea, and two miserable
starved Highland chickens, without any potatoes ! No
pudding, and no/////; no little maid (the two there not
wishing to come in), nor our two people who were wet
and drying our and their things to wait on us ! It was
not a nice supper ; and the evening was wet. As it
was late we soon retired to rest. Mary and Maxted
(Lady Churchill's maid) had been dining below with
Grant, Brown, and Stewart (who came, the same as last
time, with the maids) in the "commercial room" at the
foot of the stairs. They had only the remnants of our
two starved chickens !
* One of my wardrobe-maids now dresser to Princess Helena
(Princess Christian). Her father was thirty-eight years with my dear
uncle the King of the Belgians.
( 160 )
Wednesday, October 9.
A bright morning, which was very charming. Albert
found, on getting up, that Cluny Macpherson, with his
piper and two ladies, had arrived quite early in the
morning ; and, while we were dressing, we heard a drum
and fife and discovered that the newly-formed volunteers
had arrived all indicating that we were discovered.
However, there was scarcely any population, and it did
not signify. The fat old landlady had put on a black
satin dress, with white ribbons and orange flowers ! We
had breakfast at a quarter to nine o'clock ; at half-past
nine we started. Cluny was at the door with his wife
and daughters with nosegays, and the volunteers were
drawn up in front of the inn. They had all assembled
since Saturday afternoon !
We drove as we did yesterday. Fine and very wild
scenery, high wild hills, and no habitations. We went
by the Pass of Drumonchter, with fine hills on both sides
and in front of us; passed between two, the one on our
left called The Boar of Badenoch, and that on the right,
The Athole Sow. The Pass of Drumonchter separates
Perthshire from Inverness-shire.
Again, a little farther on, we came to Loch Garry,
which is very beautiful but the mist covered the furthest
hills, an'd the extreme distance was clouded. There is a
small shooting-lodge, or farm, charmingly situated, looking
up the glen on both sides, and with the loch in front ; we
did not hear to whom it belonged. We passed many
drovers, without their herds and flocks, returning, Grant
told us, from Falkirk. We had one very heavy shower
after Loch Garry and before we came to Dalnacardoch
Inn, 13 miles from Dalwhinnie. The road goes beside
the Garry. The country for a time became flatter ; but
was a good deal cultivated. At Dalnacardoch Inn there
was a suspicion and expectation of our arrival. Four
horses with smart postilions were in waiting ; but, on
General Grey's saying that this was not the party, but
the one for whom only two horses had been ordered, a
shabby pair of horses were put in ; a shabby driver
driving from the box (as throughout this journey), and off
we started.
The Garry is very fine, rolling along over large stones
like the Quoich and the Fishie, and forming perpetual
falls, with birch and mountain-ash growing down to the
water's edge. We had some more heavy showers. A
few miles from Dalnacardoch the Duke of Athole (in his
kilt and shooting-jacket, as usual) met us on a pretty
little chestnut pony, and rode the whole time near the
carriage. He said, there were vague suspicions and
rumours of our coming, but he had told no one anything.
There was again a shower, but it cleared when we came
in sight of Ben-y-Ghlo, and the splendid Pass of Killie-
krankie, which, with the birch all golden, not, as on
Deeside, bereft of leaves, looked very beautiful.
We passed by the Bruar, and the road to the Falls
of the Bruar, but could not stop. The Duke took us
through a new approach, which is extremely pretty ; but
near which, I cannot help regretting, the railroad will
come, as well as along the road by which we drove
through the Pass of Drumouchter. The Duke has made
great improvements, and the path looked beautiful, sur-
rounded as it is by hills ; and the foliage still full, though
in all its autumn tints the whole being lit up with bright
sunshine. We drove through an avenue, and in a few
minutes more were at the door of the old castle. A
thousand recollections of seventeen years ago crowded
upon me all seemed so familiar again ! No one there
except the dear Duchess, who stood at the door, and
ii
whom I warmly embraced ; and Miss Mac Gregor. How
well I recognized the hall with all the sporting trophies ;
and the staircase, .which we went up at once. The
Duchess took us to a room which I recognized imme-
diately as the one where Lady Canning lived. There we
took off our things then went to look at the old and
really very handsome rooms in which we had lived the
one in which Vicky had slept in two chairs, then not four
years old ! In the dining-room we took some coffee,
which was most welcome ; and then we looked at all the
stags' horns put up in one of the corridors below ; saw
the Duke's pet dog, a smooth-haired black terrier, very
fat ; and then got into the carriage, a very peculiar one,
viz., a boat a mere boat (which is very light), put on
four wheels, drawn by a pair of horses with a postilion.
Into this we four got, with the Duke and Duchess and
the dog; Lady Churchill, General Grey, and Miss
Mac Gregor going in another carriage ; with our two
servants on the box, to whom all this was quite new and
a great treat. The morning was beautiful. It was half-
past twelve we ' drove up by the avenue and about a
favourite walk of ours in '44, passed through the gate,
and came on to Glen Tilt which is most striking, the
road winding along, first on one side of the Tilt, and
then on the other ; the fine high hills rising very abruptly
from each side of the rapid, rocky, stony river Tilt the
trees, chiefly birch and alder, overhanging the water.
We passed the Marble Lodge, in which one of the
keepers lives, and came to Forest Lodge, where the road
for carriages ends, and the glen widens. There were our
ponies, which had passed the night at the Bainoch or
Beynoch (a shooting " shiel " of Lord Fife's). They came
over this morning ; but, poor beasts, without having had
any corn ! Forest Lodge is eight miles from Blair. There
we took leave of the dear Duchess ; and saw old Peter
Frazer, the former head-keeper there, now walking with
the aid of two sticks ! The Duke's keepers were there,
his pipers, and a gentleman staying on a visit with him.
It was barely two o'clock when we started. We on
our ponies, the Duke and his men (twelve altogether) on
foot Sandy McAra, now head-keeper, grown old and
grey, and two pipers, preceded us; the two latter
playing alternately the whole time, which had a most
cheerful effect. The wild strains sounded so softly amid
those noble hills ; and our caravan winding along our
people and the Duke's all in kilts, and the ponies, made
altogether a most picturesque scene.
One of the Duke's keepers, Donald Macbeath, is a
guardsman, and was in the Crimea. He is a celebrated
marksman, and a fine-looking man, as all the Duke's mec
are. For some little time it was easy riding, but soon
we came to a rougher path, more on the " brae " of the
hill, where the pony required to be led, which I always
have done, either when it is at all rough or bad, or when
the pony has to be got on faster.
The Duke walked near me the greater part of the time ;
amusingly saying, in reference to former times, that he
did not offer to lead me, as he knew I had no confidence
in him. I replied, laughingly, " Oh, no, only I like best
being led by the person I am accustomed to."
At length, at about three, we stopped, and lunched at
a place called Dalcronachie, looking up a glen towards
Loch Loch on a high bank overhanging the Tilt.
Looking back the view was very fine ; so, while the
things were being unpacked for lunch, we sketched.
We brought our own luncheon, and the remainder was
as usual given to the men, but this time there were a
great many to feed. After luncheon we set off again. I
walked a few paces ; but as it was very wet, and the road
very rough, by Albert's desire I got on again. A very
few minutes brought us to the celebrated ford of the
Tarff, (Poll Tarff it is called,) which is very deep and
after heavy rain almost impassable. The Duke offered to
lead the pony on one side, and talked of Sandy for the
other side, but I asked for Brown (whom I have far the
most confidence in) to lead the pony, the Duke taking
hold of it (as he did frequently) on the other side.
Sandy McAra, the guide, and the two pipers went first,
playing all the time. To all appearance the ford of the
Tarff was not deeper than the other fords, but once in it
the men were above their knees and suddenly in the
middle, where the current, from the fine, high, full falls,
is very strong, it was nearly up to the men's waists.
Here Sandy returned, and I said to the Duke (which he
afterwards joked with Sandy about) that I thought he
(Sandy) had better take the Duke's place ; he did so,
and we came very well through, all the others following,
the men chiefly wading Albert (close behind me) and
the others riding through and some of our people
coming over double on the ponies. General Grey had
little Peter Robertson up behind him.
The road after this became almost precipitous, and
indeed made riding very unpleasant ; but being wet, and
difficult to walk, we ladies rode, Albert walking the
greater part of the time. Only once, for a very few
steps, I had to get off, as the pony could hardly keep its
footing. As it was, Brown constantly could not walk
next to the pony, but had to scramble below, or pull it
after him. The Duke was indefatigable.
The Tilt becomes narrower and narrower, till its first
source is almost invisible. The Tarff flows into the Tilt,
about two miles or more beyond the falls. We emerged
from the pass upon an open valley with less high hills
and with the hills of Braemar before us. We crossed the
Bainoch or Bynack, quite a small stream, and when we
came to the " County March " where Perth and Aber-
deen join we halted. The Duke gave Albert and me
some whisky to drink, out of an old silver flask of his
own, and then made a short speech proposing my health,
expressing the pleasure with which he and all had received
me at Blair, and hoping that I would return as often as
I liked, and that I should have a safe return home;
ending by the true Highland " Nis ! nis ! nis ! Sit air
" a-nis ! A-ris ! a-ris ! a-ris ! " (pronounced : " Neesh !
" neesh ! neesh ! Sheet eir, a-neesh ! A-rees ! a-rees !
" a-rees ! ") which means : " Now ! now ! now ! That to
him, now ! Again ! again ! again ! " which was responded
to by cheering from all. Grant then proposed "three
cheers for the Duke of Athole," which was also very
warmly responded to ; my pony (good " Inchrory "),
which went admirably, rather resenting the vehemence
of Brown's cheering.
We then went on again for about three miles to the
Bainoch, which we reached at ten minutes to six, when it
was already nearly dark. As we approached the " shiel,"
the pipers struck up, and played. The ponies went so
well with the pipes, and altogether it was very pleasant
to ride and walk with them. They played " the Athole
Highlanders " when we started, and again in coming in.
Lady Fife had very kindly come down to the Bainoch
herself, where she gave us tea, which was very welcome.
We then got into our carriages, wishing the good Duke
of Athole good-by. He was going back the whole
way which was certainly rather a hazardous proceeding,
at least an adventurous one, considering the night, and
that there was no moon and what the road was ! We
( 166 )
got home safely at a quarter-past eight. The night was
quite warm, though slightly showery but became very
clear and starlight later.
We had travelled 69 miles to-day, and 60 yesterday.
This was the pleasantest and most enjoyable expedition
I ever made ; and the recollection of it will always be
most agreeable to me, and increase my wish to make
more ! Was so glad dear Louis (who is a charming
companion) was with us. Have enjoyed nothing as
much, or indeed felt so much cheered by anything, since
my great sorrow.* Did not feel tired. We ladies did
not dress, and dined en famille ; looking at maps of the
Highlands after dinner.
* The death of the Duchess of Kent.
167
LAST EXPEDITION.
Wednesday ^October 16, 1861.
To our great satisfaction it was a most beautiful
morning. Not a cloud was on the bright blue sky, and
it was perfectly calm. There had been a sharp frost
which lay on parts of the grass, and the mountains were
beautifully lit up, with those very blue shades upon
them, like the bloom on a plum. Up early, and break-
fasted with Alice, Louis, and Lenchen, in our room. At
twenty minutes to nine o'clock we started, with Alice,
Lenchen, and Louis. The morning was beyond every-
thing splendid, and the country in such beauty, though
the poor trees are nearly leafless.
Near Castleton, and indeed all along the road, in the
shade, the frost still lay, and the air was very sharp. We
took post-horses at Castleton, and proceeded up Glen
Clunie to Glen Callater, which looked lovely, and which
Albert admired much. In a little more than two hours
we were at Loch Callater the road was very bad
indeed as we approached the loch, where our ponies
were waiting for us. After walking a few paces we
remounted them, I on my good "Fyvie," and Alice
on "Inchrory."
The day was glorious and the whole expedition
delightful, and very easily performed. We ascended
Little Cairn Turc, on the north side of Loch Callater,
up a sort of footpath very easy and even, upon ground
that was almost flat, rising very gradually, but imper-
ceptibly; and the view became wonderfully extensive.
The top of Cairn Turc is quite flat with moss and
grass so that you could drive upon it. It is very high,
for you see the high table-land behind the highest point
of Loch-na-Gar. On that side you have no view; but
from the other it is wonderfully extensive. It was so
clear and bright, and so still there, reminding us of the
day on Ben Muich Dhui last year.
There rose immediately behind us Ben Muich Dhui,
which you hardly ever see, and the shape of which is not
fine, with its surrounding mountains of Cairngorm, Brae
Riach, Ben Avon or A an, Ben-na-Bhourd, &c. We saw
Ben-y-Ghlo quite clearly, and all that range of hills;
then, further west, Shichallion, near Loch Tay ; the
mountains which are near the Black Mount ; and, quite
on the horizon, we could discern Ben Nevis, which is
above Fort William.
Going up Cairn Turc we looked down upon Loch
Canter, a small loch above Loch Callater, very wild and
dark. We proceeded to Cairn Glaishie, at the extreme
point of which a cairn has been erected. We got off
to take a look at the wonderful panorama which lay
stretched out before us. We looked on Fifeshire, and
the country between Perth and Stirling, the Lomond
Hills, &c. It was beautifully clear, and really it was
most interesting to look over such an immense extent of
the Highlands. I give a very poor description of it;
but here follows a rough account of the places we saw :
To the North Ben Muich Dhui, Brae Riach, Cairn-
gorm, Ben Avon, Ben-na-Bhourd.
To the East Loch-na-Gar, &c.
To the South-West Ben-y-Ghlo or Ben-y-Gloe, and the
( 169 )
surrounding hills beyond Shic7iallion y and the mountains
between Ditnkeld and the Black Mount.
Quite in the extreme West Ben Nevis.
To the South the Lomond Hills; Perth in the middle
distance.
We walked on a little way, and then I got upon my
pony. Another half hour's riding again over such singular
flat table-land, brought us on to the edge of the valley of
Cairn Lochan, which is indeed " a bonnie place." It
reminded me and Louis of Clova ; only there one did
not see the immense extent of mountains behind. Cairn
Lochan is a narrow valley, the river Isla winding through
it like a silver ribbon, with trees at the bottom. The
hills are green and steep, but towards the head of the
valley there are fine precipices. We had then to take a
somewhat circuitous route in order to avoid some bogs,
and to come to a spot where we looked right up the
valley for an immense distance; to the left, or rather
more to the south, was Glen Isla, another glen, but
wider, and not with the same high mountains as Cairn
Lochan. Beyond Glen Isla were seen the Lomond Hills
behind Kinross, at the, foot of which is Loch Leven.
We sat on a very precipitous place, which made one
dread any one's moving backwards ; and here, at a little
before two o'clock, we lunched. The lights were charm-
ingly soft, and, as I said before, like the bloom on a
plum. The luncheon was very acceptable, for the air
was extremely keen, and we found ice thicker than a
shilling on the top of Cairn Turc, which did not melt
when Brown took it and kept it in his hand.
Helena was so delighted, for this was the only really
great expedition in which she had accompanied us.
Duncan and the keeper at Loch Callater (R. Stewart)
went with us as guides.
( '70 )
I made some hasty sketches ; and then Albert wrote on
a bit of paper that we had lunched here, put it into the
Selters-water bottle, and buried it there, or rather stuck
it into the ground. Grant had done the same when we
visited Ben Miiich Dhui the first time. This over, we
walked part of the way back which we had ridden to
avoid the bogs, we ladies walking only a short way, and
then riding. We altered our course, and left Cairn
Glaishie to our right, and went in the direction of the
Cairn Wall. Looking back on the distant hills above
Glen Isla and Cairn Lochan (Lord Airlie's " Country "),
it was even more beautiful ; for, as the day advanced, the
mountains became clearer and clearer, of a lovely blue,
while the valleys were in shadow. Shichallion, and those
further ranges, were also most perfectly to be seen, and
gave me such a longing for further Highland expeditions !
We went over Garbchory, looking down on the road to
the Spittal; and on the lower mountains, which are most
curiously connected one with another, and which, from
the height we were, we could look down upon.
Here follows the account of our route, with all the
names as written down by Duncan. I cannot " mind "
the names, as they say here.
From Balmoral to
Loch Collator, four miles,
Left Loch Callater at n o'clock, A.M.,
Little Cairn Turc,
Big Cairn Turc,
Loch Canter,
Cairn Glaishie,
Cairn Lochan,
Ca-Ness, six miles.
Returning route :
Cairn Lochan.
Cairn Glashie,
Garb Chory,
Month Eigie Road,
Glass Meall,
Fian Chory,
Aron Ghey,
Shean Spittal Bridge, 4.30 P.M.,
Shean Spittal Bridge to Balmoral, 16 miles.
This gave one a very good idea of the geography of
the country, which delighted dear Albert, as this expe-
dition was quite in a different direction from any that we
had ever made before. But my head is so very ungeo-
graphical, that I cannot describe it. We came down by
the Month Eigie, a steep hill covered with grass down
part of which I rode, walking where it was steepest;
but it was so wet and slippery that I had two falls. We
got down to the road to the Spittal Bridge, about 15
miles from Castleton, at nearly half-past four, and then
down along the new road, at least that part of it which
is finished, and which is to extend to the Cairn Wall.
We went back on our side of the river ; and if we had
been a little earlier, Albert might have got a stag but
it was too late. The moon rose and shone most beau-
tifully, and we returned at twenty minutes to seven
o'clock, much pleased and interested with this delightful
expedition. Alas ! I fear our last great one !
(IT WAS OUR LAST ONE ! 1867.)
TOURS
in
ENGLAND AND IRELAND,
and
YACHTING EXCURSIONS.
( '75 )
FIRST VISIT TO IRELAND.
On Board the Victoria and Albert,
in the Cove of Cork,
Thursday, August 2, 1849.
ARRIVED here after a quick but not very pleasant passage.
The day was fine and bright, and the sea to all appear-
ance very smooth ; but there was a dreadful swell, which
made one incapable of reading or doing anything. We
passed the Land's End at nine o'clock in the morning.
When we went on deck after eight in the evening, we
were close to the Cove of Cork, and could see many
bonfires on the hill, and the rockets and lights that were
sent off from the different steamers. The harbour is
immense, though the land is not very high, and entering
by twilight it had a very fine effect. Lady Jocelyn,
Miss Dawson, Lord Fortescue (Lord Steward), Sir George
Grey (Secretary of State for the Home Department),
Miss Hildyard, Sir James Clark, and Mr. Birch are on
board with us. The equerries, Colonel Phipps and
Colonel Gordon, are on board the " Black Eagle."
Friday, August 3.
The day was grey and excessively " muggy," which
is the character of the Irish climate. The ships saluted
at eight o'clock, and the " Ganges" (the flag-ship and a
three-decker) and the "Hogue" (a three-decker cut
down, with very heavy guns, and with a screw put into
her), which are both very near us, made a great noise.
The harbour is very extensive, and there are several
islands in it, one of which is very large. Spike Island is
immediately opposite us, and has a convict prison ; near
it another island with the depot, &c. In a line with that
is the town of Cove, picturesquely built up a hill. The
two war-steamers have only just come in. The Admiral
(Dixon) and the Captains of the vessels came on board.
Later, Lord Bandon (Lord-Lieutenant of the county),
Lord Thomond, General Turner, Commander of the
Forces at Cork, presented their respects, and Albert went
on shore, and I occupied myself in writing and sketching.
Albert returned before our luncheon, and had been
walking about and visiting some of the cabins.
We left the yacht at two with the ladies and gentlemen,
and went on board the " Fairy," which was surrounded
with rowing and sailing boats. We first went round the
harbour, all the ships saluting, as well as numbers of
steamers and yachts. We then went into Cove and lay
alongside the landing-place, which was very prettily
decorated ; and covered with people ; and yachts, ships
and boats crowding all round. The two Members,
Messrs. Roche and Power, as well as other gentlemen,
including the Roman Catholic and Protestant clergymen,
and then the members of the Yacht Club, presented
addresses. After which, to give the people the satisfac-
tion of calling the place Quunstown, in honour of its
being the first spot on which I set foot upon Irish
ground, I stepped on shore amidst the roar of cannon
(for the artillery were placed so close as quite to shake
the temporary room which we entered) ; and the enthu-
siastic shouts of the people. We immediately re-embarked
and proceeded up the river Lee towards Cork. It is
( '77 )
extremely pretty and richly wooded, and reminded me of
the Tamar. The first feature of interest we passed was
a little bathing-place, called Monkstown, and later Black-
rock Castle, at which point we stopped to receive a
salmon, and a very pretty address from the poor fisher-
men of Blackrock.
As we approached the city we saw people streaming
in, on foot, on horseback, and many in jaunting-cars.
When we reached Cork the " Fairy " again lay alongside,
and we received all the addresses : first, from the Mayor
and Corporation (I knighted the Mayor immediately
afterwards), then from the Protestant Bishop and clergy ;
from the Roman Catholic Bishop and clergy ; from the
Lord-Lieutenant of the county, the Sheriffs, and others.
The two Judges, who were holding their courts, also
came on board in their robes. After all this was over
we landed, and walked some few paces on to where
Lord Bandon's carriage was ready to receive us. The
ladies went with us, and Lord Bandon and the General
rode on each side of the carriage. The Mayor preceded
us, and many (Lord Listowel among the number,) fol-
lowed on horseback or in carriages. The i2th Lancers
escorted us, and the Pensioners and Infantry lined the
streets.
I cannot describe our route, but it will suffice to say
that it took two hours ; that we drove through the prin-
cipal streets ; twice through some of them ; that they were
densely crowded, decorated with flowers and triumphal
arches ; that the heat and dust were great ; that we passed
by the new College which is building one of the four
which are ordered by Act of Parliament ; that our recep-
tion was most enthusiastic ; and that everything went off
to perfection, and was very well arranged. Cork is not
at all like an English town, and looks rather foreign.
12
The crowd is a noisy, excitable, but very good-humoured
one, running and pushing about, and laughing, talking,
and shrieking. The beauty of the women is very remark-
able, and struck us much ; such beautiful dark eyes and
hair, and such fine teeth ; almost every third woman was
pretty, and some remarkably so. They wear no bonnets,
and generally long blue cloaks ; the men are very poorly,
often raggedly dressed ; and many wear blue coats and
short breeches with blue stockings.
We re-embarked at the same place and returned just
as we came.
Kingstown Harbour, Dublin Bay,
Sunday, August 5.
Safely arrived here : I now continue my account. For
the first two hours and a half the sea, though rough, was
not disagreeable. We entered Waterford Harbour yes-
terday at twenty minutes to four o'clock. The harbour
is rocky on the right as one enters, and very flat to the
left; as one proceeds the land rises on either side.
We passed a little fort called Duncannon Fort, whence
James II. embarked after the battle of the Boyne, and
from which they had not saluted for fifty years. Further
up, between two little villages, one on either side, each
with its little chapel, picturesquely situated on the top of
the rock or hill, we anchored. The little fishing place to
our left is called Passage, and is famous for salmon ; we
had an excellent specimen for our dinner. Albert decided
on going to Waterford, ten miles up the river, in the
" Fairy," with the boys, but as I felt giddy and tired, I
preferred remaining quietly on board sketching. Albert
returned after seven o'clock ; he had not landed.
( '79 )
Viceregal Lodge, Phoenix Park,
Monday, August 6.
Here we are in this very pretty spot, with a lovely
view of the Wicklow Hills from the window. But now
to return to yesterday's proceedings. We got under
weigh at half-past eight o'clock ; for three hours it was
dreadfully rough, and I and the poor children were very
sea-sick. When we had passed the Tuscar Rock in
Wexford the sea became smoother, and shortly after,
quite smooth, and the evening beautiful. After we
passed Arklow Head, the Wicklow Hills came in sight
they are beautiful. The Sugarloaf and Carrick
Mountain have finely pointed outlines, with low hills in
front and much wood. At half-past six we came in sight
of Dublin Bay, and were met by the "Sphynx" and
" Stromboli " (which had been sent on to wait and to
come in with us), the " Trident," and, quite close to the
harbour, by the "Dragon," another war-steamer. With
this large squadron we steamed slowly and majestically
into the harbour of Kingstown, which was covered with
thousands and thousands of spectators, cheering most
enthusiastically. It is a splendid harbour, and was full
of ships of every kind. The wharf, where the landing-
place was prepared, was densely crowded, and altogether
it was a noble and stirring scene. It was just seven when
we entered, and the setting sun lit up the country, the
fine buildings, and the whole scene with a glowing light,
which was truly beautiful. We were soon surrounded by
boats, and the enthusiasm and excitement of the people
were extreme.
While we were at breakfast the yacht was brought
close up to the wharf, which was lined with troops.
Lord and Lady Clarendon and George * came on board ;
* The Duke of Cambridge.
also Lords Lansdowne and Clanricarde, the Primate, the
Archbishop of Dublin, and many others. The address
was presented by the Sheriff and gentlemen of the county.
As t the clock struck ten we disembarked, stepping on
shore from the yacht, Albert leading me and the children,
and all the others following us. An immense multitude
had assembled, who cheered most enthusiastically, the
ships saluting and the bands playing, and it was really
very striking. The space we had to walk along to the
railroad was covered in ; and lined with ladies and
gentlemen strewing flowers. We entered the railway-
carriages with the children, the Clarendons, and the
three ladies; and in a quarter of an hour reached the
Dublin station. Here we found our carriages with
the postilions in their Ascot liveries. The two eldest
children went with us, and the two younger ones with
the three ladies. Sir Edward Blakeney, Commander-in-
Chief in Ireland, rode on one side of the carriage and
George on the other, followed by a brilliant staff, and
escorted by the iyth Lancers and the Carabiniers.
It was a wonderful and striking scene, such masses
of human beings, so enthusiastic, so excited, yet such
perfect order maintained; then the numbers of troops,
the different bands stationed at certain distances, the
waving of hats and handkerchiefs, the bursts of welcome
which rent the air, all made it a never-to-be-forgotten
scene; when one reflected how lately the country had
been in open revolt and under martial law.
Dublin is a very fine city; and Sackville Street and
Merrion Square are remarkably large and handsome;
and the Bank, Trinity College, &c. are noble buildings.
There are no gates to the town, but temporary ones
were erected under an arch ; and here we stopped, and
the Mayor presented me the keys with some appropriate
words. At the last triumphal arch a poor little dove
was let down into my lap, with an olive branch round
its neck, alive and very tame. The heat and dust were
tremendous. We reached Phoenix Park, which is very
extensive, at twelve. Lord and Lady Clarendon and all
the household received us at the door. It is a nice com-
fortable house, reminding us of Claremont, with a pretty
terrace garden in front (laid out by Lady Normanby),
and has a very extensive view of the Park and the fine
range of the Wicklow Mountains. We are most com-
fortably lodged, and have very nice rooms.
Tuesday, August 7.
We drove into Dublin with our two ladies in Lord
Clarendon's carriage, the gentlemen following ; and
without any escort. The people were very enthusiastic,
and cheered a great deal. We went, first, to the Bank,
where the Directors received us, and then to the printing-
room, and from thence viewed the old Houses of Lords
and Commons, for what is now the Bank was the old
Parliament House. From here we drove to the Model-
School, where we were received by the Archbishop of
Dublin, the Roman Catholic Archbishop Murray (a fine
venerable-looking old man of eighty), and the other
gentlemen connected with the school. We saw the
Infant, the Girti, and the Boys' Schools ; in the latter,
one class of boys was examined in mental arithmetic
and in many very difficult things, and they all answered
wonderfully. Children of all creeds are admitted, and
their different doctrines are taught separately, if the
parents wish it; but the only teaching enforced is that
of the Gospel truths, and love and charity. This is truly
Christian and ought to be the case everywhere. About
1,000 children are educated here annually, of which
( '32 )
300 are trained as schoolmasters and mistresses. From
here we visited Trinity College, the Irish University,
which is not conducted upon so liberal a system, but
into which Roman Catholics are admitted. Dr. Todd,
the secretary, and a very learned man, well versed in
the Irish language, showed us some most interesting
ancient manuscripts and relics, including St. Columba's
Book (in which we wrote our names), and the original
harp of King O'Brian, supposed to be the one from
which the Irish arms are taken. The library is a very
large handsome room, like that in Trinity College, Cam-
bridge. We then proceeded towards home, the crowd in
the streets immense, and so loyal. It rained a little at
intervals. Home by a little past one. Albert went into
Dublin again after luncheon, and I wrote and read, and
heard our children say some lessons.
At five we proceeded to Kilmainham Hospital, very
near here; Lord Clarendon going in the carriage with
the ladies and myself Albert and the other gentlemen
riding. Sir Edward Blakeney and his staff, and George,
received us. We saw the old pensioners, the chapel, and
the hall, a fine large room (where all the pensioners dine,
as at Chelsea), and then Sir Edward's private apartments.
We afterwards took a drive through all the principal parts
of Dublin, College Green, where the celebrated statue of
William the III. is to be seen ; Stephens' Green, by The
Four Courts, a very handsome building; and, though
we were not expected, the crowds were in many places
very great. We returned a little before seven. A large
dinner. After dinner above two or three hundred people
arrived, including most of the Irish nobility and many of
the gentry ; and afterwards there was a ball.
Wednesday, August 8.
At twenty minutes to one o'clock we left for Dublin, I
and all the ladies in evening dresses, all the gentlemen in
uniform. We drove straight to the Castle. Everything
here as at St. James's Leve'e. The staircase and throne-
room quite like a palace. I received (on the throne)
the addresses of the Lord Mayor and Corporation, the
University, the Archbishop and Bishops, both Roman
Catholic and Anglican, the Presbyterians, the non-sub-
scribing Presbyterians, and the Quakers. They also pre-
sented Albert with addresses.* Then followed a very
long Leve'e, which lasted without intermission till twenty
minutes to six o'clock ! Two thousand people were pre-
sented !
Thursday, August 9.
There was a great and brilliant review in the Phoenix
Park six thousand one hundred and sixty men, includ-
ing the constabulary. In the evening we two dined
alone, and at half-past eight o'clock drove into Dublin for
the Drawing-room. It is always held here of an evening.
I should think between two and three thousand people
passed before us, and one thousand six hundred ladies
were presented. After it was over we walked through
St. Patricks Hall and the other rooms, and the crowd
was very great. We came back to the Phoenix Park at
half-past twelve the streets still densely crowded. The
city was illuminated.
Friday, August 10.
At a quarter to twelve o'clock we set out, with all our
suite, for Carton, the Duke of Leinster's ; Lord and Lady
* Lord Breadalbane (Lord Chamberlain) was in attendance,
having joined us on our arrival in Dublin.
Clarendon in the carriage with us. We went through
Woodlands, a place belonging to Mr. White, in which
there are beautiful lime-trees ; and we passed by the
"Preparatory College" for Maynooth; and not far from
Carton we saw a number of the Maynooth students. The
park of Carton is very fine. We arrived there at a little
past one, and were received by the Duke and Duchess of
Leinster, the Kildares, Mr. and Lady C. Repton, and
their two sons. We walked out into the garden, where
all the company were assembled, and the two bands
playing ; it is very pretty : a sort of formal French garden
with rows of Irish yews. We walked round the garden
twice, the Duke leading me, and Albert the Duchess.
The Duke is one of the kindest and best of men.
After luncheon we walked out and saw some of the
country people dance jigs, which was very amusing. The
Irish is quite different from the Scotch reel ; not so ani-
mated, and the steps different, but very droll. The people
were very poorly dressed in thick coats, and the women in
shawls. There was one man who was a regular specimen
of an Irishman, with his hat on one ear. Others in blue
coats, with short breeches and blue stockings. There
were three old and tattered pipers playing. The Irish
pipe is very different from the Scotch ; it is very weak,
and they don't blow into it, but merely have small
bellows which they move with the arm. We walked
round the pleasure-grounds, and after this got into a
carriage with the Duke and Duchess our ladies and
gentlemen following in a large jaunting-car, and the people
riding, running, and driving with us, but extremely well-
behaved ; and the Duke is so kind to them, that a word
from him will make them do anything. It was very hot,
and yet the people kept running the whole way, and in
the thick woollen coats, which it seems they always wear
here. We drove along the park to a spot which com-
mands an extensive view of the Wicklow Hills. We then
went down an entirely new road, cut out of the solid
rock, through a beautiful valley, full of the finest trees,
growing among rocks close to a piece of water. We got
out and walked across a little wooden bridge to a very
pretty little cottage, entirely ornamented with shells, &c.
by the Duchess. We drove back in the jaunting-car,
which is a double one, with four wheels, and held a
number of us I sitting on one side between Albert and
the Duke ; the Duchess, Lady Jocelyn, Lord Clarendon,
and Lady Waterford on the opposite side ; George at the
back, and the equerries on either side of the coachman.
As soon as we returned to the house we took leave of
our hosts, and went back to the Phoenix Park a different
way from the one we came, along the banks of the Liffey,
through Mr. Colson's park, in which there were the most
splendid beeches I have ever seen feathering down
quite to the ground; and farther along the road and
river were some lovely sycamore-trees. We drove
through the village of Lucan, where there were fine
decorations and arches of bays and laurel. We passed
below The Strawberry-beds, which are really curious to see
quite high banks of them and numbers of people
come from Dublin to eat these strawberries ; and there
are rooms at the bottom of these banks on purpose. We
were home a little after five.
On Board the Victoria and Albert,
in Loch Ryan, Sunday, August 12.
We arrived after a dreadfully rough though very short
passage, and have taken refuge here. To retuni to
Friday. We left the Phoznix Park, where we had spent so
pleasant a time, at six o'clock, Lord Clarendon and the
two elder children going in the carriage with us, and
drove with an escort to the Dublin Railway Station.
The town was immensely crowded, and the people most
enthusiastic. George met us there, and we took him,
the Clarendons, and Lord Lansdowne and our ladies in
the carriage with us. We arrived speedily at Kingstown,
where there were just as many people and as much
enthusiasm as on the occasion of our disembarkation.
We stood on the paddle-box as we slowly steamed out
of Kingstown, amidst the cheers of thousands and
thousands, and salutes from all the ships ; and I waved
my handkerchief as a parting acknowledgment of their
loyalty. We soon passed Howth and Ireland's Eye. The
ship was very steady, though the sea was not smooth, and
the night thick and rainy, and we feared a storm was
coming on.
Saturday, August n.
We reached Belfast Harbour at four o'clock. The wind
had got up amazingly, and the morning was a very bad
and stormy one.
We had not had a very quiet night for sleeping, though
very smooth. The weather got worse and worse, and
blew a real gale ; and it was quite doubtful whether we
could start as we had intended, on our return from Belfast,
for Scotland.
We saw the Mayor and General (Bainbrigg), who had
come on board after breakfast.
At a quarter-past one we started with the ladies arid
gentlemen for the "Fairy." Though we had only two
minutes' row in the barge, there was such a swell that the
getting in and out, and the rolling and tossing in the boat,
were very disagreeable. We had to keep in the little
pavilion, as the squalls were so violent as to cover the
" Fairy " with spray. We passed between Holy wood
and Carrickfergus, celebrated for the first landing of
William III. We reached Belfast in half an hour, and
fortunately the sun came out.
We lay close alongside the wharf, where a very fine
landing-place was arranged, and where thousands were
assembled. Lord Londonderry came on board, and
numerous deputations with addresses, including the Mayor
(whom I knighted), the Protestant Bishop of Down and
clergy, the Catholic Bishop Denvir (an excellent and
modest man), the Sheriff and Members for the county,
with Lord Donegal (to whom the greater part of Belfast
belongs), Dr. Henry, from the new College, and the
Presbyterians (of whom there are a great many here).
Lady Londonderry and her daughter also came on board.
There was some delay in getting the gang-board down,
as they had made much too large a one. Some planks on
board were arranged, and we landed easily in this way.
The landing-place was covered in, and very tastefully
decorated. We got into Lord Londonderry's carriage
with the two ladies, and Lord Londonderry himself got
on the rumble behind with the two sergeant-footmen,
Renwick and Birbage, both very tall, large men ; and the
three must have been far from comfortable.
The town was beautifully decorated with flowers, hang-
ings, and very fine triumphal arches, the galleries full of
people ; and the reception very hearty. The people are
a mixture of nations, and the female beauty had almost
disappeared.
I have all along forgotten to say that the favourite
motto written up on most of the arches, &c., and in every
place, was : " Cead mile failte," which means " A hundred
thousand welcomes " in Irish, which is very like Gaelic ;
it is in fact the language, and has existed in books from
the earliest period, whereas Gaelic has only been written
since half a century, though it was always spoken. They
often called out, " Cead mile failte ! " and it appears in
every sort of shape.
Lord Donegal rode on one side of the carriage and the
General on the other. We stopped at the Linen Hall to
see the exhibition of the flax and linen manufacture.
Lord Downshire and several other gentlemen received us
there, and conducted us through the different rooms,
where we saw the whole process in its different stages.
First the plant, then the flax after being steeped ; then
the spun flax; lastly, the linen, cambric, and cloth of
every sort and kind. It is really very interesting to see,
and it is wonderful to what a state of perfection it has
been brought.
We got into our carriages again. This time Lord
Londonderry did not attempt to resume his uncomfortable
position.
We went along through the Botanic Garden, and stopped
and got out to look at the new College which is to be
opened in October. It is a handsome building. We
passed through several of the streets and returned to the
place of embarkation. Belfast is a fine town, with some
good buildings for instance, the Bank and Exchange,
and is considered the Liverpool and Manchester of Ireland.
I have forgotten to mention the Constabulary, who are
a remarkably fine body of men, 13,000 in number (alto-
gether in Ireland}, all Irish, and chiefly Roman Catholics ;
and not one of whom, during the trying times last year,
fraternised with the rebels.
We left amid immense cheering, and reached the
" Victoria and Albert " at half-past six. It was blowing
as hard as ever, and the getting in and out was as dis-
agreeable as before. We decided on spending the night
( 189 )
where we were, unless the wind should drop by three or
four o'clock in the morning. Many bonfires were lighted
on the surrounding hills and coasts.
Sunday ', August 12.
The weather no better, and as there seemed no hope
of its improvement, we decided on starting at two o'clock,
and proceeding either to Loch Ryan or Lamlash. Lord
Adolphus read the service at half-past ten, at which the
two eldest children were also present.
I intend to create Bertie " Earl of Dublin," as a compli-
ment to the town and country; he has no Irish title,
though he is born with several Scotch ones (belonging to
the heirs to the Scotch throne, and which we have in-
herited from James VI. of Scotland and I. of England) ;
and this was one of my father's titles.
The preparations on deck for the voyage were not
encouraging ; the boats hoisted up, the accommodation
ladders drawn quite close up, every piece of carpet re-
moved, and everything covered ; and, indeed, my worst
fears were realized. We started at two, and I went below
and lay down shortly after, and directly we got out of the
harbour the yacht began rolling for the first three-quarters
of an hour, in a way which was dreadful, and there were
two rolls, when the waves broke over the ship, which I
never shall forget. It got gradually better, and at five
we entered Loch Ryan, truly thankful to be at the end of
our voyage. Albert came down to me and then I went
up on deck, and he told me how awful it had been. The
first great wave which came over the ship threw every-
body down in every direction. Poor little Affie * was
thrown down and sent rolling over the deck, and was
drenched, for the deck was swimming with water. Albert
* Prince Alfred.
told me it was quite frightful to see the enormous waves
rising like a wall above the sides of the ship. We did
not anchor so high up in Loch Ryan as we had done two
years ago ; but it was a very safe quiet anchorage, and
we were very glad to be there. Albert went on shore.
Monday, August 13.
We started at four o'clock in the morning, and the
yacht rolled a little, but the motion was an easy one.
We were in the Clyde by breakfast-time, but the day was
very bad, constant squalls hiding the scenery. We left
Greenock to our left, and proceeded a little way up Loch
Goil, which opens into Loch Long, and is very fine ; it
seems extraordinary to have such deep water in a narrow
loch and so immediately below the mountains, which are
very rocky. We turned back and went up Loch Long,
which I remembered so well, and which is so beautiful.
We let go the anchor at Arrochar, the head of the lake,
intending to land and proceed to Loch Lomond, where a
steamer was waiting for us but it poured with rain most
hopelessly. We waited an hour in vain, and decided on
stopping till after luncheon and making the attempt at
three o'clock. We lunched and stepped into the boat,
as it had cleared a little ; but just then it began pouring
again more violently than before, and we put back much
disappointed, but Albert persevered, and he went off
with Mr. Anson, Sir James Clark, and Captain Robinson
almost directly afterwards. Just then it cleared and I
felt so vexed that we had not gone but there have been
some terrible showers since. We left Arrochar a little
before four, Loch Long looking beautiful as we returned.
Perth, Tuesday, August 14.
We anchored yesterday in Roseneath Bay, close to
Roseneath a very pretty spot and looking towards the
mountains which you see in Loch GoiL One of them is
called " The Duke of Argyll's Bowling-green." Albert
only returned soon after eight o'clock, having been able
to see a good deal of Loch Lomond, and even Rob Roy's
Cave, in spite of heavy showers. Captain Beechey (who
was with us during the whole voyage in '47, and again
the whole of this one to pilot us), Captain Crispin, and
Captain Robinson (who met us this morning and piloted
Albert in Loch Lomond, and did the same for us in '47),
dined with us also, and we had much interesting ' conver-
sation about the formation of glaciers, &c.,in all of which
Captain Beechey (who is a very intelligent man, and has
been all over the world) took part. He was with Sir
Edward Parry at the North Pole, and told us that they
had not seen daylight for four months. They heaped up
snow over the ship and covered it in with boards to keep
the cold off.
Balmoral, Wednesday, August 15.
It seems like a dream to be here in our dear Highland
home again ; it certainly does not seem as if it were a
year since we were here ! Now I must describe the
doings of yesterday. We embarked on board the " Fairy "
at a quarter to nine o'clock, and proceeded up the Clyde
in pouring rain and high wind, and it was very stormy till
after we had passed Greenock. We steamed past Port
Glasgow, then came Dumbarton and Erskine. The river
narrows and winds extraordinarily here, and you do not
see Glasgow until you are quite close upon it. As we
approached, the banks were lined with people, either on
estrades or on the sea-shore, and it was amusing to see
( 192 )
all those on the shore take flight, often too late, as the
water bounded up from the swell caused by the steamer.
The weather, which had been dreadful, cleared up,
just as we reached Glasgow, about eleven, and continued
fine for the remainder of the day. Several addresses
were presented on board, first by the Lord Provost, who
was knighted, (Colonel Gordon's sword being used,) then
one from the county, the clergy (Established Church and
Free Kirk), and from the Houses of Commerce. We
landed immediately after this ; the landing-place was very
handsomely decorated. We then entered our carriage
with the two eldest children, the two others following.
Mr. Alison (the celebrated historian, who is the Sheriff)
rode on one side of the carriage, and General Riddell
(the Commander of the Forces in Scotland) on the other.
The crowds assembled were quite enormous, but excellent
order was kept and they were very enthusiastic. Mr.
Alison said that there were 500,000 people out. The
town is a handsome one with fine streets built in stone,
and many fine buildings and churches. We passed over
a bridge commanding an extensive view down two quays,
which Albert said was very like Paris. There are many
large shops and warehouses, and the shipping is immense.
We went up to the old cathedral, where Principal
Mac Farlane, a very old man, received us, and directed
our attention, as we walked through the church gates, to
an immensely high chimney, the highest I believe in
existence, which belongs to one of the manufactories.
The cathedral is a very fine one, the choir of which is
fitted up as a Presbyterian church. We were shown the
crypt and former burial-place of the bishops, which is in
a very high state of preservation. The architecture is
beautiful. It is in this crypt that the famous scene in
Rob Roy is laid, where Rob Roy gives Frank Osbaldistone
( '93 )
warning that he is in danger. There is an old monument
of St. Kentigern, commonly called St. Mungo, the founder
of the cathedral. We re-entered our carriages and went
to the University, an ancient building, and which has pro-
duced many great and learned men. Here we got out
and received an address. We only stopped a few minutes,
and then went on again towards the Exchange, in front of
which is Marochetti's equestrian statue of the Duke of
Wellington, very like and beautifully executed. We got
out at the railway station and started almost imme-
diately.
We passed Stirling in the distance, and a little before
four we reached Perth, where the people were very
friendly. We took the four children in our carriage and
drove straight to the " George Inn," where we had the
same rooms that we had last time.
Albert went out immediately to see the prison, and at
six we. drove together along the London Road (as they
rather strangely call it), towards Moncrieffe. The view
was perfectly beautiful, and is the finest of Perth and the
grand bridge over the Toy.
Wednesday, August 15.
At a quarter to eight o'clock we started. The two
boys and Vicky were in the carriage with us, Alice fol-
lowed with the ladies. It was a long journey, but
through very beautiful scenery. We saw the Grampians
as we left Perth. We first changed horses at Blairgowrie,
15 miles. Then came a very long stage of 20 miles, to
the Spittal of Glenshee. We first passed the house of a
Lieut. -Colonel Clark Rattray, called Craig Hall, over-
hanging a valley or glen above which we drove, and after
this we came into completely wild Highland scenery,
with barren rocky hills, through which the road winds
*94
to the Spitt al of Glenshee, which can scarcely be called a
village, for it consists of only an inn and two or three
cottages. We got out at the inn, where we found
Mr. Farquharson and his son, and some of his men.
Here we had some luncheon, and then set off again. The
next stage of 15 miles to Castleton is over a very bad,
and at night, positively dangerous road, through wild,
grand scenery, with very abrupt turns and steep ascents.
One sharp turn is called The Devil's Elbow. The
Farquharson men joined us again here, some having gone
on before, and others having followed from the inn,
skipping over stones and rocks with the rapidity and
lightness peculiar to Highlanders. They remained with
us till we were able to trot on again.
We drove through a very fine pass called Cairn Wall
and were overtaken by a heavy shower. When we
reached Castleton the day had cleared, and we were able
to open the carriage again. Here we were met by
Sir Alexander Duff and the Duke of Leeds at the head
of their men. Lady Duff, Mr. and Lady Agnes Duff,
Miss Farquharson, and several of the children, and the
Duchess of Leeds, came up to the carriage. The drive
from Castlelon to Balmoral, particularly the beautiful
part from the B attach Buie, was well known to us ; and
it was a great pleasure to see it all again in its beauty.
Grant had met us at the Spittal of Glenshee, and ridden
the whole way with us. At the door at Balmoral were
Mackay, who was playing, and Macdonald in full dress.
It was about four when we arrived.
YACHTING EXCURSION.
On Board the Victoria and Albert,
Dartmotith, Thursday, August 20, 1846.
We steamed past the various places on the beautiful
coast of Devonshire which we had passed three years ago
Seaton, Sidmouth, off which we stopped for ten minutes,
Aocmouth, Teignmouth, &c. ; till we came to Babbicombe,
a small bay, where we remained an hour. It is a beautiful
spot, which before we had only passed at a distance.
Red cliffs and rocks with wooded hills like Italy, and
reminding one of a ballet or play where nymphs are to
appear such rocks and grottos, with the deepest sea, on
which there was not a ripple. We intended to disembark
and walk up the hill ; but it came on to rain very much,
and we could not do so. We tried to sketch the part
looking towards Torbay. I never saw our good children
looking better, or in higher spirits. I contrived to give
Vicky a little lesson, by making her read in her English
history.
We proceeded on our course again at half-past one
o'clock, and saw Torquay very plainly, which is very fine.
The sea looked so stormy and the weather became so
thick that it was thought best to give up Plymouth (for
the third time), and to put into that beautiful Dartmouth,
and we accordingly did so, in pouring rain, the deck
swimming with water, and all of us with umbrellas ; the
( '96 )
children being most anxious to see everything. Not-
withstanding .the rain, this place is lovely, with its wooded
rocks and church and castle at the entrance. It puts me
much in mind of the beautiful Rhine, and its fine ruined
castles, and the Lurlei.
I am now below writing, and crowds of boats are
surrounding us on all sides.
Plymouth Harbour, Friday, August 21.
We got under weigh by half-past six o'clock, and on
looking out we saw the sea so calm and blue and the sun
so bright that we determined to get up. It was a very
fine day, but there was a great deal of swell. At length
at half-past nine we entered the splendid harbour of
Plymouth, and anchored again below Mount Edgcumbe ;
which, with its beautiful trees, including pines, growing
down into the sea, looks more lovely than ever. I
changed my dress and read innumerable letters and
despatches, and then went on deck and saw the authorities
the Admirals and Generals. I did Vicky's lessons
and wrote ; and at half-past one we went on board the
" Fairy," (leaving the children on board the " Victoria
and Albert,") with all our ladies and gentlemen, as well
as Sir James Clark, who has joined us here. We steamed
up the Tamar, going first a little way up the St. Germans
river, which has very prettily wooded banks. Trematon
Castle to the right, which belongs to Bertie as Duke of
Cornwall, and Jats to the left, are extremely pretty. We
stopped here and afterwards turned back and went up
the Tamar, which at first seemed flat; but as we pro-
ceeded the scenery became quite beautiful richly
wooded hills, the trees growing down into the water,
and the river winding so much as to have the effect of a
lake. In this it reminded me so much of going up the
( 197 )
Rhine, though I don't think the river resembles the
Rhine. Albert thought it like the Danube. The finest
parts begin about Saltash, which is a small but prettily
built town. To the right as you go up all is un-English
looking ; a little further on is the mouth of the Tavy ;
here the - river becomes very beautiful. We passed
numbers of mines at work. Further on, to the left, we
came to Pentillie Castle situated on a height most beauti-
fully wooded down to the water's edge, and the river
winding rapidly above and below it. Albert said it
reminded him of the situation of Greinbnrg on the
Dcniube. Not much further on we came to the picturesque
little village and landing-place of Cothele, at the foot of
a thickly wooded bank, with a valley on one side. Here
the river is very narrow. We landed, and drove up a
steep hill under fine trees to the very curious old House
of Cot/tele, where we got out of the carriage. It is most
curious in every way as it stands in the same state as it
was in the time of Henry VII. and is in great preserva-
tion the old rooms hung with arras, &c.
We drove down another way under beautiful trees,
and above the fine valley ; embarked and proceeded
clown the river. The evening was beautiful, the sun
bright, and the sky and sea so blue. We arrived just too
late for the launch of the frigate " Thetis." It reminded
me so much of when we were here three years ago, as we
approached our yacht, surrounded by myriads of boats,
and had to row through them in our barge. We returned
at half-past five. The evening was delightful clear, calm,
and cloudless, but a good deal of noise in the boats around
us. Lord and Lady Mount Edgcumbe and Sir James
Clark dined with us.
Plymouth, Saturday, August 22.
Albert was up at six o'clock, as he was to go to Dart-
moor Forest. At ten I went in the barge with the two
children, the ladies, Baron Stockmar, and Lord Alfred
Paget, and landed at Mount Edgcumbe, where we were
received by Lady Mount Edgcumbe, her two boys, her
sister and nieces, and beyond the landing-place by Lord
Mount Edgcumbe. There were crowds where we landed,
and I feel so shy and put out without Albert. I got into
a carriage with the children and Lady Mount Edgcumbe
Lord Mount Edgcumbe going before us and the others
following and took a lovely drive along the road which
overhangs the bay, commanding such beautiful views on
all sides, and going under and by such fine trees. We
had been there three years ago ; but it is always a
pleasure to see it again. The day very hot and a little
hazy. We came to the house at eleven. The children
went with their governess and the other children into the
shade and had luncheon in the house, and I remained in
the gallery a very pretty room, with some fine pictures,
and with a door opening on the garden, and commanding
a lovely little bit of sea view, which I tried to sketch. A
little after twelve we returned to the yacht, which had
been beset with boats ever since six in the morning.
Albert returned safely to me at one o'clock, much pleased
with his trip ; and said that Dartmoor Forest was like
Scotland.
At two we went with our ladies and gentlemen, and
without the children, again to the landing-place at Mount
Edgcumbe, where we were received as before, and drove
up to the house. There are some of the finest and
tallest chestnut-trees in existence here, and the beech-
trees grow very peculiarly quite tall and straight the
branches growing upwards. We walked about the gallery
( 199 )
and looked into Lady Mount Edgcumbe's little room
at one end of it, which is charming, and full of pretty
little things which she has collected, and then we took
luncheon in a room where there are some fine portraits
by Sir Joshua Reynolds. They are all of the Mount
Edgcumbe family, one of whom was his great patron.
Sir Joshua was born a few miles from Plymouth. There
are in the same room pictures by him when he first began
to paint, which have kept their colour ; then when he
made experiments and these are quite faded ; and again
of his works when he discovered his mistakes, and the
colour of his pictures is then beautiful. We walked
about the garden near the house, and then drove to the
" Kiosk," by beautiful stone pines and pinasters, which
interested Albert very much, and put me so much in
mind of Mr. Lear's drawings. The view from this
" Kiosk," which is very high over the sea and town,
is most beautiful, and the sea was like glass, not a ripple
to be seen. We walked down a very pretty road or path
through the woods and trees till we met the carriage, and
we drove along that beautiful road, which is said to be a
little like the Cornice, overhanging the sea, down to the
place of embarkation, where we took leave of them all,
and returned to our yacht by half-past four. Poor Lord
Mount Edgcumbe is in such a sad, helpless state ; but so
patient and cheerful. We went on board just to fetch the
children, and then on to the " Fairy," and steamed in her
round the harbour, or rather bay, in which there are such
pretty spots ; into the Cat Water, from whence we rowed
in one of the barges a little way up the river to look at
Saltram, Lord Morley's ; after that back to the " Fairy,"
went in her into Mill Bay, Sutton Pool, and Stonehouse,
and returned to the yacht by half-past six.
( 200 )
In Guernsey Bay, off St. Pierre, Guernsey,
Sunday, August 23.
On waking, the morning was so lovely that we could
not help regretting that we could not delay our trip a
little, by one day at least, as the Council which was to
have been on the 25th is now on the 29th. We thought,
however, we could do nothing but sail for Torbay, at half-
past nine, and for Osborne on Monday. While dressing,
I kept thinking whether we could not manage to see
Falmouth, or something or other. Albert thought we
might perhaps manage to see one of the Channel Islands,
and accordingly he sent for Lord Adolphus Fitzclarence,
and it was settled that we should go to Guernsey, which
delighted me, as I had so long wished to see it. The day
splendid. The General and Admiral came on board to
take leave. Sir J. West is the Admiral, and General
Murray, the General ; and at about half-past nine we set
off, and the sea the whole way was as calm as it was in
'43. Plymouth is beautiful, and we shall always be
delighted to return there.
For two hours we were in expectation of seeing land ;
but it was very hazy, and they did not know where we
were till about six, when land was seen by the " Fairy,"
who came to report it, and then all the other vessels went
on before us. As we approached we were struck by the
beauty of the Guernsey coast, in which there are several
rocky bays, and the town of St. Pierre is very picturesquely
built, down to the water's edge. You see Sark (or Sercq)
as you enter the harbour to the right, and further on, close
opposite St. Pierre, two islands close together Herm and
Jethou. The bay with these fine islands is really most
curious. We anchored at seven, immediately opposite
St. Pierre, and with the two islands on the other side of
us. We dined at eight, and found on going on deck the
201
whole town illuminated, which had a very pretty effect,
and must have been done very quickly, for they had no
idea of our coming. It is built like a foreign town. The
people speak mostly French amongst themselves.
August 24.
St. Pierre is very picturesque-looking with very high,
bright-coloured houses built down almost into the sea.
The College and Church are very conspicuous buildings.
This island with its bold point, and the little one of
Cornet with a sort of castle on it (close to which we were
anchored), and the three islands of Herm, Jethoii, and
Sark, with innumerable rocks, are really very fine and
peculiar, especially as they then were in bright sunlight.
We both sketched, and at a quarter to nine got into our
barge with our ladies. The pier and shore were lined
with crowds of people, and with ladies dressed in white,
singing " God save the Queen," and strewing the ground
with flowers. We walked to our carriage, preceded by
General Napier, brother to Sir Charles (in Sdnde), a very
singular-looking old man, tall and thin, with an aquiline
nose, piercing eyes, and white moustaches and hair. The
people were extremely well-behaved and friendly, and
received us very warmly as we drove through the narrow
streets, which were decorated with flowers and flags, and
lined with the Guernsey militia, 2,000 strong, with their
several bands. Some of the militia were mounted.
The vegetation beyond the town is exceedingly fine ;
and the evergreens and flowers most abundant. The
streets and hills steep, and the view from the fort, which
is very high, (and where General Napier presented me
with the keys,) is extremely beautiful. You look over
the bay of Guernsey, and see opposite to you the islands
of Herm, Jethou, and Sark; with Alder my, and the coast
( 202 )
of France, Cape de la Hague, to the left in the distance,
and to the right in the distance, Jersey. The island
appears very flourishing. In the town they speak
English, but in the country French, and this is the
same in all the islands. They belonged to the Duchy
of Normandy, and have been in our possession ever
since William the Conqueror's time. King John* was
the last of their sovereigns who visited them. We drove
along the pier, and then embarked amidst great cheering.
It was all admirably managed ; the people are extremely
loyal.
We got under weigh a little before one and in about
an hour-and-a-half we came close to Alderney, seeing all
the time the French coast, Cape de la Hague, very plainly
to our right, and leaving the Casquets Lights to our left.
Alderney is quite different from all the other islands,
excessively rocky and barren, and the rocks in and under
the sea are most frightful.
* For King John's visit, see Roger de Wendover, a cotemporaiy
chronicler. ED.
( 203 )
SECOND YACHTING EXCURSION.
On Board the Victoria and Albert,
Off St. Hcliers, Jersey,
Wednesday, September 2, 1846.
At a quarter-past seven o'clock we set off with Vicky,
Bertie, Lady Jocelyn, Miss Kerr, Mdlle. Gruner, Lord
Spencer, Lord Palmerston, and Sir James Clark (Mr.
Anson and Colonel Grey being on board the " Black
" Eagle "), and embarked at Osborne Pier. There was a
good deal of swell. It was fine, but very cold at first. At
twelve we saw Alderney, and between two and three got
into the Alderney Race, where there was a great deal of
rolling, but not for long. We passed between Alderney
and the French coast Cape de la Hague and saw the
other side of Alderney ; and then, later, Sark, Guernsey,
and the other islands. After passing the Alderney Race,
it became quite smooth ; and then Bertie put on his
sailor's dress, which was beautifully made by the man on
board who makes for our sailors. When he appeared, the
officers and sailors, who were all assembled on deck 1 to
see him, cheered, and seemed delighted with him.
The coast of Jersey is very beautiful, and we had to
go nearly all round, in order to get to St. Heliers. We
first passed the point called Rondtiez, then Grosnez with a
tower, St. Ouerfs Bay, La Rocca, a curious old tower on
a rock, and then Brelade's Bay. The red cliffs and
rocks, with the setting sun gilding and lighting them
all up, were beautiful. At last, at a quarter to seven, we
arrived in this fine large bay of St. Aubin, in which lies
St. Heliers; and after dinner we went on deck to see the
illumination and the bonfires.
Off St. Heliers,
Thursday, September 3.
A splendid day,. I never saw a more beautiful deep
blue sea, quite like Naples ; and Albert said that this fine
bay of St. Aubin, in which we lie, really is -like the Bay
of Naples. Noirmont Point terminates in a low tower to
our left, with St. Aubin and a tower on a rock in front of it ;
farther in, and to our right, Elizabeth Castle, a picturesque
fort on a rock, with the town of St. Heliers behind it.
The colouring and the effect of light were indescribably
beautiful. We got into our barge with our ladies and
gentlemen, and then went on board the " Fairy," until
we were close to the harbour, and then we got into the
barge again. We landed at the stairs of the Victoria
Harbour, amid the cheers of the numberless crowds,
guns firing, and bands playing ; were received, as at
Guernsey, by all the ladies of the town, very gaily
dressed, who, strewing flowers on our way, conducted
us to a canopy, where I received the address of the
States and of the militia.
We then got into our carriage and drove along the
pier ; Colonel Le Couteur, my militia aide-de-camp, riding
by my side, with other officers, and by Albert's side
Colonel Le Breton, commanding the militia, who, 5,000
strong, lined the streets, and were stationed along the
pier. The States walking in front. The crowds were
immense, but everything in excellent order, and the
people most enthusiastic, though not more so than
the good Guernsey people ; , the town is much larger,
and they had much longer time for preparations ; the
decorations and arches of flowers were really beautifully
done, and there were numberless kind inscriptions. All
the country people here speak French, and so did the
police who walked near us. It was a very gratifying
reception. There was a seat in one of the streets filled
by Frenchwomen from Granville, curiously dressed with
white handkerchiefs on their heads. After passing through
several streets we drove up to the Government House, but
did not get out. General Gibbs, the Governor, is very
infirm.
We then proceeded at a quicker pace the walking
procession having ceased through the interior of the
island, which is extremely pretty and very green,
orchards without end, as at Mayence. We passed the
curious old tower of La Hougue Bie, of very ancient
date, and went to the Castle of Mont Orgueil > in Grouville
Bay, very beautifully situated, completely overhanging
the sea, and where Robert, Duke of Normandy, son
of William the Conqueror, is said to have lived.* We
walked part of the way up, and from one of the batteries,
where no guns are now mounted, you command the bay,
and the French coast is distinctly seen, only 13 miles
distant. The people are very proud that Mont Orgueil
had never been taken ; but I have since learnt it was
* Mont Orgueil was also called Gouray Castle. Duke Robert
the Second, the Conqueror's son, lived at Gouray Castle in Nor-
mandy : Duke Robert the First, commonly called ' ' Robert le
Diable," was in Jersey for twelve days; and, during that time,
probably occupied Gouray Castle in that island. Hence may have
arisen the tradition of Robert the Second having lived there, of
which there is no evidence. ED.
( 206 )
taken by surprise and held for a few days; Guernsey,
however, never was taken. *
We then returned to our carriage, and proceeded to
the pier by a shorter road, and through a different part
of the town. There is a peculiar elm-tree in the island,
which is very pretty, and unlike any other, the leaf and
the way it grows almost resembling the acacia. The
crowd was very great and the heat very intense in going
back.
We re-embarked in the barge, but had only to go a
few yards to the " Fairy." The situation of the harbour
is very fine, and crowned with the fort, and covered
by numbers of people, was like an amphitheatre. The
heat of the sun, and the glare, had made me so ill
and giddy that I remained below the greater part of
the afternoon, and Albert went out for an hour on the
" Fairy."
Falmoiith Harbour, Friday, September 4.
A beautiful day again, with the same brilliantly blue
sea. At a quarter to eight o'clock we got under weigh.
There was a great deal of motion at 'first, and for the
greater part of the day the ship pitched, but getting up
the sails steadied her. From five o'clock it became quite
* The public Records certainly state that Guernsey was taken
by the French in 1339. But the same records show that it was again
in the possession of the English as early as January 1340. The tradi-
tion, therefore, "that Guernsey never was taken," maybe true, as
the occupation by the French might only have been partial viz.,
of Castle Cornet and the vicinity ; and this might have been mag-
nified, by report in England, into a conquest of the whole island.
Popular traditions, contradicted at first by documentary evidence,
are often eventually found to be true. Everything depends upon the
meaning of the words "taken " and " conquered." It could hardly
have been said that England had been "conquered" by the Nor-
mans, while the gallant Hereward held out in the Isle of Ely. ED.
( 207 )
smooth ; at half-past five we saw land, and at seven we
entered Falmouth Harbour, where we were immediately
surrounded by boats. The evening was beautiful and the
sea as smooth as glass, and without even a ripple. The
calmest night possible, with a beautiful moon, when we
went on deck ; every now and then the splashing of oars
and the hum of voices were heard ; but they were the
only sounds, unlike the constant dashing of the sea
against the vessel, which we heard all the time we were
at Jersey.
Mount's Bay, Cornwall, Saturday, September 5.
At eight o'clock we left Falmouth and proceeded along
the coast of Cornwall, which becomes bold and rugged
beyond the Lizard Point and as one approaches Land's
End. At about twelve we passed Land's End, which
is very fine and rocky, the view from thence opening
beautifully. We passed quite close by the Longships,
some rocks on which stands a lighthouse. The sea was
unusually smooth for the Land's End. We went beyond
a point with some rocks near it, called The Brisons, and
then steamed back ; the famous Botallack mine lies here.
A little before two we landed in this beautiful Mount's
Bay, close below St. Michael's Mount, which is very fine.
When the bay first opened to our view the sun was
lighting up this beautiful castle, so peculiarly built on a
lofty rock, and which forms an island at high water.
In entering the bay we passed the small village of
Mousehole and the town of Penzance, which is prettily
situated, about one mile and a half from St. Michael's
Mount. The day brightened just as we arrived, and the
sea again became so blue.
Soon after our arrival we anchored ; the crowd of
boats was beyond everything ; numbers of Cornish
pilchard fishermen, in their curious large boats, kept
going round and round, and then anchored, besides
many other boats full of people. They are a very
noisy, talkative race, and speak a kind of English hardly
to be understood.
During our voyage I was able to give Vicky her
lessons. At three o'clock we all got into the barge,
including the children and Mdlle. Gruner, their governess,
and rowed through an avenue of boats of all descriptions
to the " Fairy," where we went on board. The getting
in and out of the barge was no easy task. There was a
good deal of swell, and the " Fairy " herself rolled
amazingly. We steamed round the bay to look at
St. Michael's Mount from the other side, which is even
more beautiful, and then went on to Penzance. Albert
landed near Penzance with all the gentlemen, except
Lord Spencer (who is most agreeable, efficient, and
useful at sea, being a Captain of the Navy) and Colonel
Grey, and went to see the smelting of copper and tin,
and the works in serpentine stone at Penzance. We
remained here a little while without going on, in order to
sketch, and returned to the "Victoria and Albert" by
half-past four, the boats crowding round us in all
directions ; and when Bertie showed himself the people
shouted : " Three cheers for the Duke of Cornwall ! "
2 9
Albert returned a little before seven, much gratified by
what he had seen, and bringing home specimens of the
serpentine stone.
Mount's Bay, Sunday, September 6.
A hazy, dull-looking morning, but as calm as it possibly
could be. At half-past eight o'clock we got into our barge,
with Miss Kerr and Lord Spencer, and proceeded without
any standard to the little harbour below St. Michael's
Mount. Behind St. Michael's Mount is the little town of
Marazion, or " Market Jew," which is supposed to have
taken its name from the Jews having in former times
trafficked there. We disembarked and walked up the
Mount by a circuitous rugged path over rocks and turf,
and entered the old castle, which is beautifully kept, and
must be a nice house to live in ; as there are so many
good rooms in it. The dining-room, made out of the
refectory, is very pretty ; it is surrounded by a frieze,
representing ancient hunting. The chapel is excessively
curious. The organ is much famed; Albert played a
little on it, and it sounded very fine. Below the chapel
is a dungeon, where some years ago was discovered the
skeleton of a large man without a coffin ; the entrance is
in the floor of one of the pews. Albert went down
with Lord Spencer, and afterwards went with him and
Sir James Clark (who, with Lord Palmerston and Colonel
Grey, had joined us,) up to the tower, on the top of which
is " St. Michael's chair," which, it is said, betrothed
couples run up to, and whoever gets first into the chair
will have at home the government of the house ; and the
old housekeeper a nice tidy old woman said many
a couple " does go there ! " though Albert and Lord
Spencer said it was the awkwardest place possible to get
at. St. Michael's Moimt belongs to Sir J. St. Aubyn.
14
There were several drawings there of Mont St. Michel in
Normandy, which is very like this one ; and was, I
believe, inhabited by the same order of monks as this
was, i.e. Benedictines. We walked down again, had to
step over another boat in order to get into our barge, as
the tide was so very low, and returned on board the yacht
before ten.
The view from the top of St. Michael's is very beautiful
and very extensive, but unfortunately it was too thick and
hazy to see it well. A low ridge of sand separates
St. Michael's Mount from Marazion at low water, and the
sea at high water. From the sand to the summit of the
castle is about 250 feet. The chapel was originally
erected, they say, for the use of pilgrims who came
here ; and it owes its name to a tradition of St. Michael
the Archangel having rested on the rock.
At half-past eleven Lord Spencer read on deck the
short morning service generally read at sea, which only
lasted twenty or twenty-five minutes. The awning was
put up, and flags on the sides ; and all the officers and
sailors were there, as well as ourselves. A flag was
hoisted, as is usual when the service is performed on
board ship, and Lord Spencer read extremely well.
Albert made a most beautiful little sketch of St.
MichaeVs Mount. Soon after two we left Mounts Bay.
About four we came opposite to some very curious
serpentine rocks, between Mount's Bay and Lizard Point,
and we stopped, that Albert might land. The gentle-
men went with him. Lord Spencer soon returned,
saying that Albert was very anxious I should see the
beautiful little cave in these serpentine rocks; and
accordingly I got into the barge, with the children, and
ladies, and Lord Spencer, and we rowed to these rocks,
with their caves and little creeks. There were many
cormorants and sea-gulls on the rocks. We returned
again, and were soon joined by Albert, who brought
many fine specimens which he had picked up. The
stone is really beautifully marked with red and green
veins.
We proceeded on our course, and reached Falmouth
before seven. The fine afternoon was changed to a
foggy, dull, cold evening. We have had on board with
us, since we left Falmouth, Mr. Taylor, mineral agent to
the Duchy of Cornwall, a very intelligent young man,
married to a niece of Sir Charles Lemon's.
Falmouth, Monday, September 7.
Immediately after breakfast, Albert left me to land
and visit some mines. The corporation of Penryn were
on board, and very anxious to see " The Duke of
Cornwall," so I stepped out of the pavilion on deck
with Bertie, and Lord Palmerston told them that that was
"The Duke of Cornwall;" and the old mayor of
Penryn said that " he hoped he would grow up a blessing
to his parents and to his country."
A little before four o'clock, we all got into the barge,
with the two children, and rowed to the " Fairy." We
rowed through a literal lane of boats, full of people, who
had surrounded the yacht ever since early in the morning,
and proceeded up the river by St. Jusfs Pool, to the left
of which lies Sir C. Lemon's place, and Trefusis belonging
to Lord Clinton. We went up the Tniro, which is
beautiful, something like the Tamar, but almost finer,
though not so bold as Pentillie Castle and Cothele,
winding between banks entirely wooded with stunted
oak, and full of numberless creeks. The prettiest are
King Harry's Ferry and a spot near Tregothnan (Lord
Falmouth's), where there is a beautiful little boat-house,
quite in the woods, and on the river, at the point where
the Tregony separates from the Truro. Albert said the
position of this boat-house put him in mind of Tell's
Chapel in Switzerland. We went a little way up the
Tregony, which is most beautiful, with high sloping
banks, thickly wooded down to the water's edge. Then
we turned back and went up the Truro to Malpas,
another bend of the river, from whence one can see Truro,
the capital of Cornwall. We stopped here awhile, as
so many boats came out from a little place called Sunny
Corner, just below Truro, in order to see us ; indeed the
whole population poured out on foot and in carts, &c.
along the banks ; and cheered, and were enchanted
when Bertie was held up for them to see. It was a very
pretty, gratifying sight.
We went straight on to Swan Pool outside Pendennis
Castle, where we got into the barge, and rowed near to
the shore to see a net drawn. Mr. Fox, a Quaker, who
lives at Falmouth, and has sent us flowers, fruit, and
many other things, proposed to put in his net and draw,
that we might see all sorts offish caught, but when it was
drawn there was not one fish ! So we went back to the
" Fairy." The water near the shore in Swan Pool is so
wonderfully clear that one could count the pebbles.
Tuesday, September 8.
A wet morning when we rose and breakfasted with the
children. At about ten o'clock we entered Fowey, which
is situated in a creek much like Dartmouth, only not so
beautiful, but still very pretty. We got into the barge
(leaving the children on board, and also Lord Spencer,
who was not quite well), and landed at Fowey with our
ladies and gentlemen, and Mr. Taylor, whom we had
brought with us from Falmouth. We got into our car-
riage with the ladies, the gentlemen following in others,
and drove through some of the narrowest streets I ever
saw in England, and up perpendicular hills in the streets
it really quite alarmed one ; but we got up and through
them quite safely. ' We then drove on for a long way,
on bad and narrow roads, higher and higher up, com-
manding a fine and very extensive view of the very
hilly country of Cornwall, its hills covered with fields,
and intersected by hedges. At last we came to one field
where there was no road whatever, but we went down
the hill quite safely, and got out of the carriage at the top
of another hill, where, surrounded by woods, stands a cir-
cular ruin, covered with ivy, of the old castle o>tRestormel,
belonging to the Duchy of Cornwall, and in which the
last Earl of Cornwall lived in the thirteenth century. It
was very picturesque from this point.
We visited here the Restormel mine, belonging also
to the Duchy of Cornwall. It is an iron mine, and you
go in on a level. Albert and I got into one of the trucks
and were dragged in by miners, Mr. Taylor walking behind
us. The miners wear a curious woollen dress, with a cap
like this : szs^. and the dress thus :
and they generally have a candle stuck in front of the
cap. This time candlesticks were stuck along the sides
of the mine, and those who did not drag or push the
truck carried lights. Albert and the gentlemen wore
miners' hats. There was no room for any one to pass
between the trucks and the rock, and only just room
enough to hold up one's head, and not always that.
It had a most curious effect, and there was something
unearthly about this lit-up cavern-like place. We got
out and scrambled a little way to see the veins of ore,
and Albert knocked off some pieces ; but in general it is
blown by gunpowder, being so hard. The miners seemed
so pleased at seeing us, and are intelligent, good people.
It was quite dazzling when we came into daylight again.
We then got into our carriage and passed through the
small town of Lostwithiel, where an address was presented
to us, and then we passed through Mr. Agar Robarts'
Park, which reminded one of Cothele. We returned by
the same road till near Fowey, when we. went through
some of the narrowest lanes I almost ever drove through,
and so fearfully stony. We drove along high above the
river to Place, belonging to Mr. Treffry, which has been
restored according to drawings in his possession, repre-
senting the house as it was in former times. A lady of
that name defended the house against the French during
the absence of her husband, in the fourteenth or fifteenth
century. The old gentleman showed us all over the
house, and into an unfinished hall, lined with marble
and porphyry, all of which came from Cornwall. We
then walked down to the place of embarkation and
proceeded at once to the yacht. Mr. Taylor deserved
the greatest credit for all the arrangements. He and his
father are what are called " Adventurers " of the mine.
( "5 )
Osborne, Wednesday, September 9.
We got up about seven o'clock and found we had just
passed The Needles.
VISIT TO THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
Tuesday, August 27, 1861.
At eleven o'clock we all started in our own sociable,
and another of our carriages, and on ponies, for Ross
Castle, the old ruin which was a celebrated stronghold,
and from which the Kenmare family take their name.
Here there was an immense crowd and a great many
boats. We got into a very handsome barge of eight
oars beautifully rowed. Lord Castlerosse steering.
The four children, and Lady Churchill, Lady Castle-
rosse, and Lord Granville were with us.
We rowed first round Innisf alien Island and some way
up the Lower Lake. The view was magnificent. We
had a slight shower, which alarmed us all, from the mist
which overhung the mountains ; but it suddenly cleared
away and became very fine and very hot. At a quarter
to one we landed at the foot of the beautiful hill of
Glena, where on a small sloping lawn there is a very
pretty little cottage. We walked about, though it was
overpoweringly hot, to see some of the splendid views.
The trees are beautiful, oak, birch, arbutus, holly, yew,
all growing down to the water's edge, intermixed with
heather. The hills, rising abruptly from the lake, are
completely wooded, which gives them a different charac-
ter from those in Scotland, though they often reminded
me of the dear Highlands. We returned to the little
cottage, where the quantity of midges and the smell of
peat made us think of Alt-na-Giuthasath. Upstairs, from
Lady Castlerosse's little room, the view was towards a
part of the Lower Lake, the outline of which is rather
low. We lunched, and afterwards re-embarked, and then
took that most beautiful row up the rapid, under the Old
Weir Bridge, through the channel which connects the two
lakes, and which is very intricate and narrow. Close to
our right as we were going, we stopped under the splendid
hill of the Eagle's Nest to hear the echo of a bugle ; the
sound of which, though blown near by, was not heard.
We had to get out near the Weir Bridge to let the empty
boats be pulled up by the men. The sun had come out
and lit up the really magnificent scenery splendidly ; but
it was most oppressively hot. We wound along till we
entered the Upper Lake, which opened upon us with all
its high hills the highest, The Reeks, 3,400 feet high
and its islands and points covered with splendid trees ;
such arbutus (quite large trees) with yews, making a
beautiful foreground. We turned into a small bay or
creek, where we got out and walked a short way in the
shade, and up to where a tent was placed, just opposite
a waterfall called Derricaunihy, a lovely spot, but terribly
infested by midges. In this tent was tea, fruit, ice, cakes,
and everything most tastefully arranged. We just took
some tea, which was very refreshing in the great heat of
this relaxing climate. The vegetation is quite that of a
jungle ferns of all kinds and shrubs and trees, all
springing up luxuriantly. We entered our boats and
went back the same way we came, admiring greatly the
beauty of the scenery ; and this time went down the
rapids in the boat. No boats, except our own, had
followed us beyond the rapids. But below them there
were a great many, and the scene was very animated and
the people very noisy and enthusiastic. The Irish always
give that peculiar shrill shriek unlike anything one ever
hears anywhere else.
Wednesday, August 28.
At a quarter-past eleven we started on a most beautiful
drive, of which I annex the route. We drove with
Mrs. Herbert and Bertie in our sociable, driven from the
box by Wagland;* and, though the highest mountains
were unfortunately occasionally enveloped in mist, and
we had slight showers, we were enchanted with the
extreme beauty of the scenery. The peeps of the lake ;
the splendid woods full of the most magnificent arbutus,
which in one place form, for a few yards, an avenue
under which you drive, with the rocks, which are very
peculiar all made it one of the finest drives we had ever
taken. Turning up by the village and going round, the
Tore mountain reminded us of Scotland of the woods
above Abergeldie, of Craig Daign and Craig Clunie. It
was so fine. We got out at the top of the Tore Waterfall
and walked down to the foot of it. We came home at
half-past one. At four we started for the boats, quite
close by. The Muckross Lake is extremely beautiful ; at
the beginning of our expedition it looked dark and severe
in the mist and showers which kept coming on, just as
it does in the Highlands. Mr. Herbert steered. Our
girls, Mrs. Herbert, Lady Churchill, and Lord Granville
* My coachman since 1857 ; and a good, zealous servant. He
entered the Royal service in 1831, and rode as postilion for seven-
teen years. His father has been thirty-two years porter in the Royal
Mews at Windsor, and is now seventy-five years old ; and has been
sixty years in the service. His grandfather was also in the Royal
service, having entered it in 1788 ; and his daughter is nursery-maid
to the Prince of Wales's children. Four generations, therefore, have
served the Royal Family.
were in the boat with us. The two boys went in a boat
rowed by gentlemen, and the rest in two other boats. At
Mr. and Mrs. Herbert's request I christened one of the
points which runs into the lake with a bottle of wine,
Albert holding my arm when we came close by, so that it
was most successfully smashed.
When we emerged from under Brickeen Bridge we had
a fine view of the Lower Lake and of the scenery of
yesterday, which rather puzzled me, seeing it from
another point de vue. At Benson's Point we stopped for
some time, merely rowing about backwards and forwards,
or remaining stationary, watching for the deer (all this is
a deer forest as well as at Glena), which we expected the
dogs would find and bring down into the water. But in
vain : we waited till past six and no deer came. The
evening had completely cleared and became quite beau-
tiful ; and the effect of the numbers of boats full of
people, many with little flags, rowing about in every
direction and cheering and shouting, lit up by the
evening light, was charming. At Darby's Garden the
shore was densely crowded, and many of the women in
their blue cloaks waded into the water, holding their
clothes up to their knees.
We were home by seven o'clock, having again a slight
sprinkling of rain.
LONDON .*
PEINTED BY SMITH, ELDER AND CO.
DA
552
U3
Victoria, Queen of Great
Britain
Leaves from the journal
of our life in the Highlands
UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRA'i
