LEAVES FROA A JOURNAL
IN THE EAST
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
GIFT OF
HORACE W. CARPENTIER
LEAVES FROM A
JOURNAL IN THE EAST
KALIS CAVE, ELLORA
LEAVES FROM A
JOURNAL IN THE EAST
DECEMBER, 1899 NOVEMBER, 1900
BY
JULIA SMITH
EonDon
W. R. RUSSELL & Co., LTD.
5a PATERNOSTER ROW, E.G.
CARPENTIER
5
CONTENTS
PAGE
CEYLON I
SOUTHERN INDIA 1 8
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, AND THE NORTH-WEST . 39
THE PUNJAUB AND FRONTIER . . . . 71
SIMLA, KASHMIR, AND LADAKH .... 90
BENGAL 152
BURMA 164
261
THIS JOURNAL OF
MY LIFE IN CEYLON, INDIA, AND BURMA,
I DEDICATE
To ALL THE KIND FRIENDS
WHO HELPED ME ON MY WAY, AND so
HOSPITABLY ENTERTAINED ME.
LEAVES FROM A JOURNAL
IN THE EAST.
CEYLON.
1899.
December loth. I landed at Colombo at 8 a.m.,
and said good-bye to my kind friends from the
Arcadia at the famous Grand Oriental Hotel,
familiarly called "The G.O.H." B. met me
there, and carried me off to the Bungalow. A
most fascinating island Ceylon looks. Its Tamils
and Cingalese, with their bronze figures clad in
coloured square garments, with combs in their
long, twisted hair, or in loin cloths only, are most
picturesque. The open shops, full of gaily-
coloured fruit, especially attract me, but most of
all the dark-eyed saleswomen, with jewelled rings
in their noses, dressed in short, white and yellow
jackets, and the inevitable square skirt, like the
sarong of the Javanese.
I had the Barberis and the Burghers, who are
the Eurasians of Ceylon, pointed out to me as well.
B
2 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
The former are the Portuguese- Cingalese, the
latter the Dutch-Cingalese, who dress in European
clothes. At first sight they look fat, heavy, and
uninteresting.
My host's bungalow is charmingly cool, open-
ing from a huge verandah into a pretty garden
with fern-houses on each side. We drove from
5.30 to 8 p.m. in the delicious cool, on the
fashionable drive round Galle Face, where, I am
assured, is "the best hotel in the East." The
native turn-outs interested me the most, with
their brilliantly-attired Tamil and Cingalese
ladies peeping out through the wooden slats that
take the place of glass windows. The sea here is
glorious, washing up on a sandy beach, beyond
which is a common, covered with riders of both
sexes, who turn into the club for refreshment at
least, those of the sterner sex !
December nth. We shopped in' the Fort, a
remnant of old Dutch rule, and I much enjoyed
my first ride in a rickshaw, dilapidated as are
most of the hired ones. The roads here teem
with picturesque life, and I am beginning to
differentiate Tamil from Cingalese. The former
conquered the latter, and since then Portuguese,
Dutch, and English have been the rulers. The
Cingalese, I hear, are very lazy and quarrelsome,
" peaceful Buddhists " though they are, and form
the domestic servant and loafer classes of the
community.
CEYLON. 3
The Tamils are the coolies and agriculturists,
and the "Moormen" (descendants of Arabs), the
main portion of the traders. The Burghers form
the Government clerk and second-class profes-
sional element. Altogether, I find Ceylon has a
population of three millions, the European pro-
portion of this only amounting to about six
thousand.
December i$th. Bicycled early in order to
snapshoot, and found my native subjects most
affable, saying " Good morning, lady," at every
turn. The lights and shades were very lovely
round by the race-course and Victoria Park. My
first experience of sports in the East ! In tropical
heat (to my western fancy !) at the Hockey Club,
without hats, men threw cannon and cricket
balls, raced on foot, and made records at the high
jump! The competitors ranged in age from 17
to 50, the gentleman of the greatest years doing
better than his younger rivals ! Yet at home we
talk of the " enervating climate " of Ceylon ! Not
content with one day of these feats, we are to
witness the same to-morrow ! My first rat-hunt,
and, I hope, my last ! I stood on a chair while B.
and her dogs hunted perfectly huge beasts from
wardrobe, &c., and with all doors closed ! I am
not fitted for sport.
December igth. I left Colombo and its gaieties
to-day for Galle, an old Dutch town on the
coast, and have had a most lovely journey from
4 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
5.21 p.m. to 8.30. The line passes by the sea
nearly all the time, which often forms series of
inland lakes, fringed by cocoa-nut forests. As
night came on, the natives lighted fires among
these, while everywhere fireflies danced about in
the darkness, and frogs added a band of music.
Truly a fairy-like scene ! On arrival at Galle I
walked to the " Hotel Oriental " while a porter
with my hold-all stalked ahead. As we passed
under the old gateway to the fort (inside the walls
and bastions of which lies the town), the moon
came out and threw a soft glow over the maiden-
hair-covered stones, and on the banyan and bo
trees.
The hotel is a weird place, and my bedroom
has no ceiling, while its whitewashed walls con-
trast with the gloomy rafters. I shall keep a
lamp burning ! From my windows, however, I
get a good view of the harbour and coast, with
cocoa-nut trees lining the shore.
December 2Oth. I started out at 6.30 to explore,
and, passing through an ancient gateway, partly
Dutch, partly English, found myself on the jetty.
It was a busy scene, as several cargo steamers
were being unloaded. This is also the port for
South Africa. After photographing this quaint
harbour and an ancient stone well in a grass-
grown compound on the ramparts, I walked on
for some time, and was much amused by seeing a
mother wash her dusky boy of three with pink
CEYLON. 5
soap ! In the afternoon I went a long drive through
some dense woods to a Buddhist Temple a great
disappointment both inside and out. The three
statues of Gautama Buddha, as resting, contem-
plating, and preaching, represent him as an un.
human giant of a violent yellow hue. The walls
are rudely painted in brilliant red, with scenes
from the birth, life, renunciation, and miracles of
the saint ; and finally " Nirvana," where he is
depicted as seemingly asleep in an arm-chair,
after a good dinner ! As I told his English-speak-
ing followers, this was not my idea of Paradise !
Bits of the Temple were lying on all sides, among
the lotus flowers, while the Dagoba, or relic shrine,
outside is surrounded by strings with flapping
bits of bright-coloured cottons and flannels
attached.
The priests allowed me to enter their tidy
quarters, where I examined some interesting old
parchment MSS. lying inside their gaily-lac-
quered backs. A Burmese statue in alabaster is
evidently a source of great pride.
Oh ! the beating of clothes I witnessed on the
way back by the washerwomen in the river ! I
now understand how necessary cast-iron under-
garments are !
December 2$th. Colombo. After a disturbed
night, owing to a thief getting into the next bun-
galow and trying to murder the two servants
(having first robbed our hen-roost), one did not
6 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
feel quite in harmony with the peaceful associa-
tions of the day. It seems strange on Christmas
Day to " rickshaw" to early service, in muslin,
under bread-fruit and mango trees, not to speak of
palms of all sorts. Both Polwatte Mission Church
and the Cathedral have bright services, but poor
" Tommy " in the Garrison Church is not so well
looked after !
December 26th. Away to Kandy. The scenery
en route is most beautiful, especially the ascent to
our destination, through cocoa-nut forests, while
tea plantations cover the hill sides. Such an in-
significant plant it is, and as the ground has to be
cleared for it, the hills look bare on the estates.
The cinnamon groves are more luxuriant.
Kandy quite realizes my expectations, and recalls
at every turn its warlike Kings in this their last
entrenchment. The Hotel is well placed on the
beautiful artificial lake, kept in by means of a
bund* said to have been the work of slave women.
The Club, formerly the king's bath-house, is well
out in the water, while the famous Temple of the
" Sacred Tooth " is just opposite. We visited
both this and the Palace and Audience Hall. On
the great balcony leading to the library (with its
thousands of ancient and modern books of
Buddhist Theology and History), the kings showed
themselves to the people at great feasts.
December 2jth. I thoroughly explored the
*Dam
CEYLON. 7
Temple, a place well repaying a longer time given
to it. At each side of the gateway are the
grotesque lions that always appear in front of
Buddhist temples. Here also one is assailed by
importunate, deformed beggars sellers of flowers,
and scent, rice, and *beetle. The inner portals
are finely carved and the outer verandah walls
covered with curious frescoes of "the Buddhist
Inferno," our poor sex being largely en evidence in
the groups of demons and monsters. One is
reminded of Fra Angelico's similar subject in
Florence. Three series of steps, each with a gate-
way, lead into the courtyard where stands the
Temple.
To my surprise, beyond the two doorways are
only two dark rooms, terminating in a flight of
narrow steps; up there we climbed to the cell
containing the shrine in which a tooth of Buddha
is enclosed in seven caskets ! A silver
gilt doorway, very dirty, leads to it, and on an
equally black silver table were placed guttering
tapers and flowers. Two great bronze bowls for
rice, and silver lamps excited my cupidity ! The
outer shrine is of gold and jewels, and only to
devout Buddhist princes and our own royalties is
the treasure in the innermost casket shown. On
dit it is the tooth of a crocodile ! The original
one is said to have been taken from Jaffna to Goa,
and there ground to powder by an iconoclastic
Betel Nut.
8 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
Roman Bishop. The Kandyan Crown jewels
were equally invisible to us.
At 6.30 we witnessed a strange sight. Sway-
ing crowds of white-garbed men and women,
holding small platters full of the white, red, and
yellow lotus, and " temple " blossoms, went by,
while tom-toms were loudly beaten, and perfume
sellers sprinkled their clients at one cent a
sprinkle ! Only at 5 and 7 a.m., and at this hour,
is the shrine open to the adoration of the faithful.
Before this ceremonial we had driven to the
Peradeniya Gardens, where the most wonderful
collection of palms, from cocoa-nut to travellers, as
well as cinnamon, nutmeg, bamboo, and banyan
trees grow together in the balmy air in a space
of 150 acres. Among these, the fern and orchid
houses, herbarium and laboratory, together with
the Director's bungalows, are prettily scattered
about. This Eastern Kew owes much to the late
Dr. Trimen, whose management and botanical
knowledge was world- renowned.
December zSth. In the Government Agent's
house, formerly part of the old palace, are
curious white basso relievos of a Buddhist Ceres
holding a sickle. Also the sacred goose and lion
are represented after a very Chaldean fashion.
The portico is adorned with the sun, moon, and
many mystic symbols, also in relief, and the
lowest step represents the sacred " Moonstone."
The Hindu shrines and small dagoba near by and
CEYLON. 9
the former audience halls (these of magnificently
carved teak wood) interested me much.
In the afternoon we drove to see three more
temples (B. says she has never visited so many
before in her ten years' life in Ceylon) one
of which was built in memory of a cremated
Queen. In this is a figure of the reclining
Buddha, 30 feet long, carved in the rock, the
background covered with inscriptions. The
yellow-clad Monks (who carry umbrellas, fans, or
coloured handkerchiefs, according to the usage of
their several monastries) do not impress me with
any idea of saintliness, or even of ordinary
intellect ! They are the schoolmasters and
"readers of the Law," and daily beg their rations
from the faithful.
December z^th. After a long, early morning
walk round the lovely lake bathed in the most
beautiful sunlight, we started for Nuwara-Eliya,
the hill station of Ceylon. From 10.30 a.m. to
6.30 p.m., we travelled through the most gorge-
ous vegetation, until, leaving the tropical behind
us, we ascended into Scotch and Swiss scenes
The bare, tea-crowned hills with their necessary
but inartistic factories, much mar our delight in
gazing out of the windows ! At Nan-ouya we
changed into a brake and drove five miles to
Nuwara-Eliya, at a height of over 6,000 feet. The
natives all wear blankets or sacks to cover their
shivering bodies, and look very " red Indian " and
io A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
certainly not picturesque ! Except for these
reminders of the East, I feel as if I were in a
Scotch Sanatorium and sigh for my topical
scenery again.
December ytfk. Beyond its situation, the Hotel
has nothing to recommend it. Its prices, I foresee,
will be exorbitant ! Still, for the health-seeking,
overworked official from the plains it must have
its charms, with golf links, tennis and croquet
courts, race-course and club, to while away
the time.
December 315^. After morning service we drove
to the Hakyala Public Gardens such an exquisite
drive through perfectly Scotch scenery, but the
Gardens themselves struck me as poor after those
of Kandy, being non-tropical, but the views over
" Adam's Peak," and " Pedro " the highest moun-
tain in Ceylon) are very beautiful. Monkeys
swing in the trees, and wild elephants, I am told,
stalk the jungle. A milleped, an awful long black
slug, with its 1,000 feet worked in groups, attracted
my horrified vision ! Of snakes, so far, I have not
seen a vestige, I am thankful to say.
1900.
January ist. May this year prove fortunate!
I began it by climbing " Pedro," which is only
8,500 feet high (just 2,ooo-odd above the Hotel),
guided by a Tamil coolie, dressed in a dirty
shirt, and huckaback towel. I found the air so
CEYLON. IT
rarefied that I had to sit down seven times to
get my breath, and was glad to take some nips
of " Tonic " water. The views were superb,
reaching even to Colombo on one side, while
on the other billows of mist rose and fell over
other ranges. The path runs through jungle
and over plateaux from which the elephant has
been chased.
January 2nd. I started to pay a visit on a tea
estate, above Nawalapitya, and " rickshawed " up-
hill for three miles, while other coolies carried my
boxes. Another charming bungalow and more
kind hosts greeted me, and took me a walk in the
cool to show me the pretty grounds and views
over the plantations.
January $rd. At 7.30 we started out to visit the
Tea Factory, walking down hill for some time, till
we reached the coolie lines and large brick build-
ings. The making of tea is a very interesting
process. In Ceylon the leaves are picked all the
year round, every seven or nine days, so quickly
does it grow. The difference in the quality of
teas (which vary from broken Pekoe to Pekoe-
Souchong) comes from the various soils and
leaves, the same tree giving all the varieties
of the herb. The leaves are first dried on
the shelves in a huge upper room, then rolled
in a machine, and next sieved. The smallest
yellow ones are considered of the finest quality.
The coolies' pay varies from 5d. to 6d. a day, and
12 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
even little children are useful on the estates. The
" lines " they live in are well looked after, even
medical care being given them, while my hostess
sees to the well being of the wives. I am told their
language is unspeakable, unthinkable, and un-
translatable, for Westerners.
My first walk over a swinging bamboo bridge,
three hundred feet above the river, with only a
wire to hold on to, was a thrilling experience !
January ^th. We three started on our excursion
to see the ruined Buddhist City of Anuradhapura.
E. joined us early in the morning, and after
shopping in Kandy we reached Martele at 7.30,
and put up at its very good " Rest House." I
doubt whether I shall find all these places on
my travels as clean and well-served !
January $th. After a bad night, caused by the
peregrinations of a rat, we started away at 8 a.m.
in a sort of covered waggonette, with native
passengers for Dambool. Oh, that drive ! Shall
I ever forget it ? The wretched pair of " gees,"
changed every three and a half miles, were in a
miserable state from influenza, overwork, and
under-feeding, and I sat in torture on the front
seat while the driver flogged, and the conductor
pushed behind. It is a disgrace to the Govern-
ment of this Island that its mails are carried at the
expense of so much suffering to animals ! A small
subsidy is given to a native who provides coach
and horses, and makes " both ends meet " by
TK.Ml'I.K OF THE TOOTH, KAXDV.
DAGOP.A. AXAKADHAITKA
CEYLON. 13
putting in all the passengers he can find seats for
above the mail bags.
Two men on a shooting expedition from
Anuradhapura we found at Dambool, and their
experience makes us tremble for ours to-morrow.
In the afternoon, as we arrived at i a.m., we took
a Eurasian guide and visited the celebrated
Rock Temples, some hundreds of feet above a
smooth, glacier-like formation. The view over
Sigre and the mountain ranges is superb.
There are five temples, but only two are inter-
esting, adorned by frescoes depicting the victories
of Buddha and the landing of Wigeya, an Indian
prince who conquered the aborigines in 543 B.C.
To my surprise one temple is dedicated to
Vishnu, "the great god," but also contains a
gigantic statue of Guatama, 47 feet long, cut in
solid rock. A curious wooden statue of the donor
of this temple and the sacred water dropping
through the roof into a peculiar receptacle, give
it an unusual interest. The doorways with eaves
are curiously decorated and inscribed. We next
visited the poor, sick horses in their stable, and
felt quite depressed at the sight of so much
neglect. What is the S.P.C.A. about ?
January 6th. We have passed a truly awful
day, only lightened by a good Samaritan who
gave us food and sympathy when we arrived, wet,
cold, and horribly depressed by the sad condition
jain of the coach horses. We started at 2.30
i 4 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
and reached Anuradhapura at 12 p.m. only
about four hours late ! During these hours we
either witnessed the efforts of our poor horses to
drag us along, or sat up on the twitch to pre-
vent the driver from further torturing the poor
wretches. Sometimes we walked to lighten the
load, and during one of these strolls in the night,
. a wild elephant crashed out of the jungle behind
us. Had we not, perfect strangers, been taken
into our kind hosts' bungalow and refreshed, no
food (save some quinine and brandy I fortunately
had with me) would have passed our lips ! And
we had driven through a very malarious country.
January yth. After a few hours' good sleep we
resolved not to use the coach back to Dambool,
and as a private carriage takes a much longer
time, we can only spare one day for this wonder-
' ful place. The ancient city must have extended
over 200 square miles, while its " Dagobas" reach
- as far back in history as 387 B.C. Explorers
calculate that its population must have numbered
270,000 people. The temples and Dagobas were
mainly built by kings, either to celebrate their
victories or their penances. A collection of huge
- pillars marks the site of the " Hall of a Thousand
Pillars," built for a large monastery about 167-
137 B.C., and is said to have been covered with
- jewels and gold leaf. The sacred " Bo " tree,
the oldest tree in the world, stands near this Hall,
the descendant of a twig planted by an Indian
CEYLON. 15
princess about this same time. Each Dagoba
is approached by four porticos and flights of steps,
and round the Thuparama (B.C. 307) are a series
of graceful pillars supposed by some authorities
to have supported awnings to protect the. wor-
shippers from the heat of the sun.
More hidden in the jungle, and therefore not
yet fully excavated (Mr. Bell is doing great work
in this line, as far as s. d. allows), are most
graceful ruined shrines, approached by beautifully
carved moonstones. Geese carrying lotus flowers,
elephants, and lions, carved in conventional
manner, adorn them. Sites of kings' and queens'
palaces, elephants' stables, Buddhas sitting soli-
tary and awe-inspiring, and a most picturesque
"preaching place" we examined, but it would
require many days to even learn the A B C of
this early stronghold of Buddhism. Of its inner
meaning we know too little to even guess at it.
The famous jogi or occult stones interested
me much. They are flat, full of square holes, and
those I examined had these always in rows of
nine. Some authorities think they were used by
ascetics to help divination ; others, that the
priests' cremated ashes were laid in them. In the
Government Agent's compound there is one of
these stones with twenty-five holes.
We watched a jackal slink past a wayside
Buddha to whom a crack across his face gave a
most sinister expression ! We were then on our
16 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
way to the great lake, 3 miles round, where we
saw our first crocodile lying basking in the mud !
I did not desire a nearer acquaintance with the
monster. One Dagoba, the last we visited, the
" Jetawanarama " (erected in A.D. 300 to mark
the king's recantation of a heresy) is so huge that,
according to Tennant, an Ipswich or a Coventry
could be constructed out of its remains or a
tunnel connecting Edinburgh with London, one
foot thick and ten feet high !
I am much struck by all the Dagobas possessing
carved on the stylce at their bases various
Lares and Penates or guardians. One Rock
Temple has an upper terrace, bordered by gro-
tesque figures, some playing on musical instru-
ments.
January 8th. Our return journey was not
much happier than the others, as the Rest House
keeper had sent on our second horse ahead, but
the beast on being put into the shafts, refused to
budge ! The man and I drove alternately, and
finally we met our kind friend again, who, after
refreshing our " inner man," drove us the rest of
the way to Dambool. Had he not found us, I
believe we should have spent two days on the
road, walking all the way. As it was, we
took from 6 a.m. to 10.30 p.m. to do the long
distance.
January gth. Our return journey to Martele
was a better one, I am thankful to say, but we all
CEYLON. 17
parted determined to bring to the notice of the
authorities the condition of the poor horses.
January i^th. Colombo. We visited the
Kelani Temple in order to witness the feast
always held at full moon. This temple is said to
be two thousand years old, and contains some fine
Buddhas, a Siamese Sacred Foot (in which the
toes are all the same length), and some copies of
the Kandyan " tooth."
The feast was a most picturesque sight ;
thousands of brightly-attired Cingalese were
passing to and fro, buying and selling, or offering
flowers and tapers before the statues. Round a
priest (in his striking yellow robes) were some one
hundred people prostrate, reciting after him eight
commandments, three of which only the most
devout need keep, and that only for two days !
These three are: i. No food after 12 a.m.
2. No up-looking from ground or book ; and 3.
No liquors. The other five belong to our " Ten
Commandments " regarding our duties to our
neighbour.
The soft Ceylon moonlight played in the most
bewitching manner on the Temple, its picturesque
worshippers, and the lovely blossoms scattered
everywhere.
SOUTHERN INDIA.
1900.
January i6th. I said good-bye to-day to my
kind friends with much regret, and feel rather a
solitary pilgrim venturing to an unknown port,
where no familiar voice will greet me ! Anthony,
so far, however, seems a treasure, and though I
have received many instructions not to put any
confidence in a native, I think mine will not be
misplaced.
The line seems a rather poor one between
Colombo and Tuticorin, though the Katoria is
one of the best ships running, and my cabin is
clean.
January ijth. We reached India at 6.30, and
at once I realized the cupidity of the railway
coolies, and after finding that they refused the
"tips" I ordered A. to give them, I took the
money back, and said, "That or nothing!" at
which they yelled for the original pice, and re-
tired discomforted. With some friendly American
fellow-travellers I put up at the station rooms at
Madura, and find my bedroom clean and the food
in the restaurant not as bad as I had been led to
expect. After a rest we started off in carriages,
with a guide (a pet aversion of mine), to see the
18
SOUTHERN INDIA. 19
Palace. What a stupendous building it is !
Built in 1623 by King Tirumala, the present
structure is now only about one-third of the
original. The great halls, ornamented with stucco
in grotesque designs, are now the Law Courts.
A case was going on, and it was strange to see
the judge, barristers, &c., all natives, but in
semi-European clothes. We got a splendid view
over the city from the roof.
We also visited the Great Tank, with a pic-
turesque temple in the middle of it, while huge,
gaily-coloured rafts, on which Siva and his con-
sort, Parvati, had floated round it a few days
before, were attached to the shore. A monster
banyan tree our guide next took us to see, of
great antiquity ; and then, quite tired out, we
came to an extraordinary shrine close to the
station. This consists of a small cella (which
we were not allowed to enter) in the compound,
surrounded by colossal stone figures of giants on
horseback, and curious monsters. These, so our
guide explained, are the gods and the "guardians"
of the country people, whose village faith, to please
the Sahiblog,* he seemed to look down upon !
January iSth. How glad I am that I decided
to spend two nights in this interesting city. At
8.0 we all, with our guide, started out to visit the
great temple truly a wonder of barbaric magnifi-
cence, and, I am assured by Miss C. (who has
* Gentry.
20 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
been north), quite unsurpassed in India. There
are nine gopuras, or towers, of red sandstone,
all nine stories high, and carved every inch with
grotesque figures, coloured blue and yellow. In-
side stretch long corridors, supported by huge
stone pillars, out of which are carved monster
figures of gods, goddesses, kings and their wives.
As oil is poured over many of these in worship,
they are quite black and glossy. One great
corridor is devoted to Parvati, five statues of her
in her different roles lining it. The effect of all
these hundreds of great statues carved out of the
pillars is very impressive, though the Hindu
mythology is an especially revolting one. I had
no wish to enter the inner shrine (even had an
"outcaste" or a Christian been permitted to do
so), as the smells, bats, and darkness outside
were bad enough. Inside the blackness must be
Stygian. The sacred parrots and elephants (the
latter being led about, gaily painted with Siva's
symbols) somewhat relieved the gloom. For
fifteen rupees we were allowed to inspect the
treasures. These consist of countless head-
dresses, breast-plates, and knee-decorations for
both god and goddess, all ornamented with large,
rough rubies, emeralds, diamonds, and sapphires;
also with mis-shapen pearls ! If all genuine they
would be in better use as aids to the "Famine
Fund." Both the setting and cutting (or rather
rough-hewing) of the gems is too barbaric to suit
SOUTHERN INDIA. 21
our dainty Western ideas of precious stones.
We were also taken to see silver-gilt elephants,
peacocks, and cows, all used as stands for the
procession of the richly-apparelled figures when
carried through the city during the various feasts.
The " Tank of the Golden Lilies " is very interest-
ing, though its water is green from stagnation.
Evidently the Sanitary Inspector does not visit
this Temple. How our " East-enders " would
envy these Hindus and their freedom from this
Ogre's visits ! A naughty Queen was starved to
death by her irate subjects in a comfortable,
quaint hall overlooking this salubrious tank,
Nowadays she would have more easily died of
enteric, if made to drink and bathe in it
occasionally !
The " Hall of a Thousand Pillars " is a very
interesting building, as the pillars form geometrical
patterns and the light filters through so prettily.
The kings of the Nayakkan Dynasty figure largely
in the statues. The cloth merchants in the
Choutrie vendors of charms, brass, and toys,
and, above all, a palmist, fascinated me greatly.
Alas ! when I visited the place this afternoon
with A. (I took a native cart and sat on an Afghan
rug) I noticed tawdry German mirrors, Brumma-
gem forks and spoons, and Whiteley's Costume
advertisements largely en evidence. Nothing
for one to buy save some grotesque dolls.
January iqth. Started for Trichinopoly at a
22 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
terribly early hour ! The only consolation was
the charming light over the fields, and picturesque
workers hurrying thereto, when the sun rose at
6 a.m. The " mud fields " of poor, drought-
suffering India I begin to see ! The bright green
paddy fields are in charming contrast. In one
almost dried-up stream I saw the people washing
in tiny pools left in the hollows a pathetic sight.
The Pandi hills are very beautiful seen from the
line, and are, I am told, health resorts. I was
much interested watching a native Government
official (in a carriage near mine) paying at each
station the wages of crowds of railway employees
and coolies. As each man, with varying profes-
sions of "salaams" received his money, he threw
it in the air piece by piece, a charm, I suppose,
for luck. The unclothed heads of the gang could
not have cheated in giving out the rolls of money,
so eagerly were they watched by their underlings.
My American friends met me at " Trichi " with
the welcome news that there is a room vacant at
the station. The legal stay at such places is
twenty-four hours, but if not turned out I may
stay on, so says a kind Eurasian stationmaster.
January 2oth. At 7.45 I started off to visit the
city. The Bazaars are very narrow mud houses
with overhanging eaves of cocoa-nut mats. I
climbed up 290 steps in a vast tunnel, past stone
figures and elephants, to the vestibule of Siva's
Shrine. These steps are coloured red and white,
SOUTHERN INDIA. 23
the god's hues, in stripes. The large silver Bull -
I was unable to see. The view from the top of the
Rock and from a graceful pavilion half-way, is very
fine, and extends over twenty to thirty miles,
embracing the dry bed of the Cauvery (i mile
wide), the Island of Seringham, and as far as the
" Golden Rock." Nothing breaks the vast extent
of plain save this yellow rock and a low range of
hills to the South-East and East. On the way
down I met many graceful girls carrying their
water-jars on their heads, those of good " caste"
wearing very handsome nose-rings, anklets, and
bangles. I then drove to the Island over a bridge
of thirty-two arches. It was a strange sight to see
the swarms of washermen and women squatted in
the yellow mud, beating the unfortunate clothes
in tiny pools ! On through cocoa-nut and olive
groves I drove up to the quaint little town of
Seringham, said to hold 20,000 inhabitants.
Where, I wonder ? I saw scarcely huts enough
for 1,000, and then with a slight squeeze. My
friends, the elephants at the Great Temple's
Gate, received my alms very affably, and salaamed
and trumpeted " How d'ye do, Mem Sahib ? "
An aged Brahmin acted as guide, and conducted
me through a grand gateway 48 feet high, with
supports of huge stones said to be 40 feet long.
The lengthy passage we entered ends in a Temple
dedicated to Vishnu, and called " Sri-Rangam " ;
but not as fine, nor as interesting, to my mind, as
24 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
its fellow at Madura, though built on much the
same lines. This one covers a much larger
space, however, and possesses inside a street only
inhabited by Brahmins. The priests also have a
long series of dwellings. In this " Hall of a
Thousand Pillars " there are several statues
reminding me of St. George and the Dragon, only
the Hindu hero is mastering a tiger. Next I
drove to the almost deserted Temple of Jam-
bukeshwar, dedicated to Siva. By the way, this is
a reversal of the general order of present-day
Hindu worship. I was decorated here with an
odoriferous wreath of jasmine by an obsequious
Brahmin whose demand in return of a rupee I
refused to accede to. By this time the pice I
had sent Anthony to fetch for me had greatly
diminished a lonely Mem Sahib being looked
upon as fair prey by priest and beggar alike!
The Temple struck me as finer than the other.
It is a hundred years older, with a very pretty tank.
On the way back I admired the beautiful engraved
chatties that the women were filling with water.
Bishop Heber's monument over the stone bath
in which he was drowned (during a faint), in
1826, I noticed, also Clive's house.
After some much needed sleep I drove out to
the Golden Rock, over a large plain, the great
ruts in which would have dismayed a European
horse, dragging such an unwieldy gharry, but my
gallant steed pulled me in and out, regardless of
SOUTHERN INDIA. 25
springs, very pluckily, and at last we reached our
Mecca, a very disappointing one, as are most of
such idealized places ! It is a sort of natural
Stonehenge, as nowhere else can one see a rock,
save a smaller bit towards the East, and, of
course, the great rock at Trichinopoly. Coming
home, I saw a native lady and her English hus-
band playing golf, and much tennis was going on
in cantonments.
I was disappointed in not getting any good gold
work in the primitive bazaars, which are not as
interesting as those at Madura, though the
European quarters are much finer.
January 22nd. I spent some hours to-day in
Tanjore, and much enjoyed the journey, as the
line winds through the " Garden of India," as
Murray calls the delta of the Cauvery. More
extraordinary shrines, with monster stone horses,
elephants, and figures, were by the wayside. At
my destination I got into a country cart, shaped
like a barrel, and, reposing on a gay Afghan rug
that A. fetched for me, was jolted over the cobbles
and ruts to the great temple, a most curious
building, said to date from the eleventh century.
There are two gofuras, the first larger than the
second, with long inscriptions in Tamil. These
lead into a large courtyard with shrines, and a
long corridor containing 108 representations of
Siva. A curious long verandah, my guide told
me, is used by Brahmins as a sleeping place
26 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
during feasts. He also initiated me into the
difference in dress between the celibates and
married of that caste. The former wear one
thread round their necks the latter three. He
also wished to explain many frescoes to me, but
after hearing a little I declined futher information !
The most beautiful shrine is dedicated to Kartti-
keya, a son of Siva, called here Subrahmanya,
patron of the Brahmins. It is so finely carved in
stone that I quite thought it was in wood ! A
gigantic " Nardi," or Sacred Bull, in black marble,
12 feet high, has its tongue twisted backwards
and nailed ! This, I was told, was Siva's punish-
ment for its being of carnivorous tastes.
On the Gopura are amusing heads of various
celebrities, such as General Lai and John Bull !
I must confess, however, I could not make out
either. In the Palace I tried in vain to interview
the seven remaining Ranees, who live at Govern-
ment expense, relics of the last Maharaja. As
he died in 1855, these ladies must all be getting
into very ripe years !
The two Darbar Halls are very gaudy with
mosaic and bright painting, and one contains,
beside the late ruler's portrait in mosaic, several
great curiosities such as German pier glasses, over-
mantels, &c., and some gaudy daubs of French
actresses ! The fine statue, by Flaxman, of the
Maharaja who died a Christian through the
agency of the saintly Dr. Schwartz was a real
SOUTHERN INDIA. 27
pleasure to gaze on, so devotional is the attitude.
His widow, a Mahratta princess, died a Hindu
like her son. Lord Nelson's bust, well carved by
the Hon. Anne Seymour Darner, was another
western relic incongruous to its surroundings.
The library is famous in India and contains
18,000 Sanscrit MSS, which I hope are more
valuable than their French and English com-
panions, most of the Georgian era, with un-
attractive titles. Two great treasures of art and
sentiment were a daub of the Queen by someone
named Muller, and a fly-stained print of Her
Majesty and Prince Albert with their little
children.
In Schwartz's deserted church, in pathetic
isolation, is Flaxman's bas relief of the good
man's deathbed, surrounded by the sorrowing
Raja and his friends. He was friend to " Hindu
and Mahommedan alike," as the inscription runs,
and was invaluable to the British Government as
a " go-between " at a most critical juncture. He
"being dead yet speaketh" in Tanjore. I picked
up some nice bits of old bronze and brass, said to
have come out of the Palace, and got them for a
very moderate price. I am as much struck here as
elsewhere with the seeming discrepancy between
the population of 152,000 and the size of the town !
The adobe huts and more comfortable quarters
for the merchants are very few in proportion to
that amount of people ; yet wheresoever I stopped
28 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
for a few minutes, the large crowds that gathered
round made me begin to realize the unseen
multitudes. I am much struck with Tanjore
being so wooded, and therefore it is very
picturesque. I do not admire its inlaid brass and
silver work, or copper and brass, but bought some
life-like brass insects.
January 2^th. Bangalore is a very English-
looking place, except in the market and narrow
bazaars, lately so decimated by plague. I
much enjoy rides on the well-kept "row," where
" Tucker " stands on end if we meet a native !
To-day, while driving in the Maharaja's coach,
the four splendid horses, startled by a dhobie's*
donkey, nearly performed the feat of climbing a
rather high stone wall ! It's lucky that in India
no horse goes out without his own particular
syce.
I hear that philanthropic work is greatly carried
on in Bangalore, and was glad to go over the
Zenana Hospital, which is admirably looked after.
The lady doctor who conducted me over showed
me five black babies only seven days old, who
were able to sit up in my arms ! Having once
held one, I was obliged to please the mothers by
holding all in turn.
February $rd. To-day my kind hosts took me to
Mysore to show me something more of the State.
We were met by the most picturesque body of
* Washerman.
SOUTHERN INDIA. 29
Lancers, who gallopped and fluttered round the
resident's carriage until they safely escorted him,
while we humbly followed behind to Government
House. This is the Maharanee-Regent's guest-
house, and she sent her Comptroller, a quaint
Italian marquis, an alien for 40 years from la
bella Italia, to greet us. Besides the Comptroller,
two grand Palace officials (one a mass of gold lace,
the other in frock coat and turban) came to call,
and we were garlanded with jasmine, then given
tiny " buttonholes," and finally sprinkled with
sandalwood out of a silver filigree casket. The
frock-coated gentleman complained gently to me
of the hard rules of his caste that prevented
him, a poor man, from crossing the sea to see the
glories of England their " Mrs. Grundy " he
called it ! A more interesting explanation was
his trying to make me understand the difference
between the impersonal God, the real " One God,
Brama neuter " and " Brahma masculine," only
commissioned by him to create. It was funny
to hear this gentleman discourse in fluent, too
perfect, English, in his frock-coat and yet with
Vishnu's trident painted on his forehead ! Still^
I am beginning to get more used to the
clash of Western culture, sartorial effects, and
vulgarity, with Eastern conservatism and pic-
turesqueness.
February $th. A day of joy to be remembered
for ever ! Two of our party bicycled to Seringa-
30 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
patam while the others rode. The way, only
8 miles, lay over the ruttiest of roads I have ever
been on, and it was difficult to avoid the bullock
carts and crowds of natives hurrying to the city.
The paddy fields, in contrast to the woods,
were very charming bits of colour, and in a most
picturesque bend in the Cauvery many graceful
women were washing, or filling their chatties.
To my surprise I found that Seringapatam is on
an island in the river ! I certainly travel to learn
the little geography I know ! It takes its name
from the Temple of Vishnu Shri Ranga, where
Buddha is said to have worshipped. The Fort,
round which so many memories linger, has stood
two sieges and one plague-riot, so must still be
pretty strong. It was built in 1484, by one of the
Governors, who used treasure to do so. The
famous Mahommedan conquerors, Hyder and
Tippoo, held it for long, until the British killed
the latter during their siege in 1799, restoring the
state to the Mysore deposed family some 50 years
later. Bangalore is given to us as a British
settlement, and the Resident helps to rule it, but
in the Mysore State he has only political influ-
ence, though his advice is ever at the service of
the Maharanee-Regent. Her son is now travelling,
and is to be married this year.
To return to Seringapatam. Its fort, the
tombs of our ancient enemies, and the exquisite
Garden Pavilion (where the Duke of Wellington,
SOUTHERN INDIA. 31
as a young man, slept) are the chief points of
interest. With her husband and her son, the
Queen of Hyder lies under a wonderful mausoleum,
all fretted marble walls, with red velvet and gold
cloth over the black marble tombs. On the
King's the "amulet" is shaped like a closed, long
inkstand, while on the Queen's it is an open
trough. To my surprise we walked about with
no coverings to our shoes. This was owing to
the Burra Sahib's presence, I suppose, who
was escorted with us under a red parasol with
fans carried on each side, while the rest of us were
garlanded. The Pavilion is most Alhambraesque,
with graceful alcoves, balconies, and winding
turret staircases. The stencilling on its walls is
very fine, and a most curious series of frescoes
covers one side, viz., the French and English
armies riding to battle. The former are given
fierce, turned-up moustaches, the latter stubbly
beards.
We much enjoyed an excellent lunch provided
for us, and returned home all in carriages. After
tea we ladies went to call on the Maharanee and
her daughters. We were shown into a long
drawing-room, supported by beautifully-carved
teak pillars, with ostrich eggs hanging between.
The furniture was a strange mixture of Eastern
loveliness and gaudy German and French cheap
costly here I am sure gimcracks. The Maharanee
is a small, graceful woman with charming manners,
32 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
who can speak English fairly well, though slowly.
Her three daughters, like herself, were dressed in
delicate saris, hers of blue spangled in gold, with
the piece over her head bordered with gold, All
wore beautiful jewels, and as each row of large
pearls, emeralds, or diamonds round the wrist
was divided by glass bangles, the effect was much
less barbaric. The Princesses told me they
bicycled (two are married) in the corridors !
Their purdah is very strict, but the Maharanee
told me how much she had enjoyed being at her
first party at the Residency, Bangalore! Of
course all the men were sent away for the time
being, and screens were put round the carriage
door as the royal ladies descended. Before
leaving we were graciously presented with bouquets
and then, after saying good-bye, were shown
over a collection of wonderful mechanical toys,
exquisitely-carved ivory and wooden caskets, the
Crown jewels, and armoury. Many of the caskets
contained addresses to the late Maharaja (a man
of great power and tact), and I was surprised to
see they were written in English, though from his
own subjects.
The stables are very fine and well cared for.
About fifty horses were paraded before us, many
arabs and whalers, but a few are Hungarian and
English. Three dear little " country -bred "
ponies attracted our admiration also. There is a
Zoo here, whose chief attraction is a tigress and
TEMPLE OF CHETTY, SEVEN PAGODAS, MADRAS
SOUTHERN INDIA. 33
her cubs. A tiger (not the latters' papa) is also
in the cage, which is well placed over some high
rocks. Besides these, black panthers, bears, and
some blue bulls are curiosities. Mysore is a pictur-
esque, entirely native city, with a small Museum
(still too large for its present contents) from the
site of which a beautiful view is obtained over the
"Family Hill" where the especial idol of the
Mysore reigning house, namely, a Sacred Bull, is
kept. Honour is especially paid to him in the
antumn, when great festivities are made and
European guests fill Government House and the
tents erected in its grounds.
February 8th. Madras strikes me as even
warmer than Colombo, but I am assured it is
still "cold weather." Our bungalow enjoys
lovely breezes from the Adyar, and stands in
about ii acres of compound. It is most delight-
ful to boat after 5 o'clock. The whole city, as
far as J have yet seen, strikes me as a most
curious mixture of East and West, and here also
the natives speak English, so that few old residents
even take the trouble to learn Tamil. We went
to the Club to-day, a very fine building, but
women have no " rights " in Madras seemingly,
as a tiny kiosk is supposed to meet all their
requirements! As a rule they patiently wait
outside in their carriages on their own particular
chalked line. Woe betide Mrs. A. if she dare
draw up on Mrs. B's. line !
D
34 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
February loth. I bicycled, and snap-shotted
some picturesque groups round the Tank at
Malypo, and watched the devout at their prayers
and ablutions. The small Temple is most
picturesque, and here one feels in India as one
does not in Madras generally.
February I2th. The Bachelors' Ball, a most
splendid function, gave me another glimpse of the
great Madras hospitality. It was held in the
handsome Banqueting Hall, lined with paintings
of former Governors, and simply radiating with
lights, as were also the pavilions and alcoves
outside. Rightly a " Feast of Lights " was it
called.
February i$th. I visited to-day the C.M.S.
Girls' School, conducted by Mr. Clarke, the
native clergyman, who is evidently full of zeal in
his work. The discipline seemed good, and the
singing and physical drill excellent.
Madras is certainly a city of beautiful com-
pounds and long distances. The latter are most
trying when, as now, there is much going out in
the evenings.
February i6th. My hostess kindly arranged for
me to-day to go to a party given by a Brahmin
and his wife, the first attempt at this sort of
thing. About fifty English and native ladies (the
latter Hindu as well as Christian) were present,
and were all received at the gate by our host and
hostess. The amusements were a conjuror, also
SOUTHERN INDIA. 35
an excellent mimic of birds, and playing on the
vigna, a sort of lute. The Christians had
refreshment with us in a tent, and to my amaze-
ment two unmarried ladies, not Christians, to
whom I was introduced, partook of ices. One
lady to whom I spoke by an interpreter told me
that, though strict Hindus, she and all her family
had been to London, and that she had enjoyed
the theatres more than anything else ! The price
paid as penance to the Brahmins must have been
great.
All the ladies not Christians wore most beauti-
ful saris and jewels. I wish the members of
our religion would keep to their own becoming
dress and not try to dress as Europeans. Their
figures and faces that suit their own graceful
draperies look quite out of place in English garb.
Our host is a vakil (a barrister), and talked to me
with much pride as being the pioneer of such
mixed gatherings.
February ijth. I have started alone for the
" Seven Pagodas," as the Madras gaieties are too
engrossing for me to find a companion, save
" Topsy ! " A Peon, besides Anthony, is to
guard me. My bed on the cabin floor is most
comfortable, but the noises in the night were so
varied and suggestive of stranding on mud banks,
that I kept starting up, while "Topsy" barked.
The sunset of last night and its rise this morning
were so lovely that, tired as I was, I could
36 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
scarcely tear my eyes away from either. The
moon, which rose at nine, bathed the soft land-
scape in a silver mist. We had taken 16 hours to
arrive at Mahabalipur, only mooring below the
Dak Bungalow at 7.30 a.m. I have decided to
remain on board as there are other people in the
bungalow, and Anthony cooks very well the
provisions my hostess kindly sent with me. At
8.0 I started with my guardians and visited some
Raths or monolithic temples, close to the Cave,
passing some curious carvings of monkeys with
their baby, also a most graceful Choutrie, or
native rest-house, neatly carved with representa-
tions of Kali and Siva. The "Temple of Chetti."
I examined on the way to the famous " Penance
of Arjuna." This marvellous series of carvings
extends over a huge black rock (the others are all
carved out of natural rocks), and depicts a sort of
St. Simon Stylites, or an ascetic standing on one
toe with his arms above his head. On either side
of him are 57 and 61 figures, including Siva and
many sacred animals. The emaciation of Arjuna's
body and his teeth displayed in a grin of agony,
are very marvellous carving. Below is a devil
imitating and mocking him, and an elephant, 13
feet high, with his infant about five feet. On we
went, past more wonderful temples and porticoes,
till my eyes were quite bewildered, searching
out each quaint story. Krishnu milking cows !
Durga on the war path ! And gods asleep or
SOUTHERN INDIA. 37
acting as mortals. Surely there were giants in
those far-off days when Buddhism emerged
from Hinduism. The Brahmins' temple in the
quaint village I could not enter, but much
admired a most graceful " resting place " close by,
overtopped by an almost Grecian canopy.
I was taken up the new lighthouse near this by
the Engineer, and as there are no railings to the
very steep staircase, I was glad that my head is a
steady one on heights. I was rewarded by a
most glorious view over the sea, canal, temples,
village tank, and cocoa-nut forests. The low
background of hills all added to the beautiful
scene. To the far-off Raths I was carried in
a chair across sandy wastes interspersed with
palms. These monolithic temples are dedicated
to mythical heroes, and are most curious, carved
like the others with grotesque figures. These are
unfinished, and writers I have consulted are not
agreed as to the reason for this. Some put it
down to an earthquake having taken place, seeing
there are marks of volcanic eruptions; others
think that northern workmen having quarrelled
with their rulers, settled here in this great city
of Bali and began these Raths, intending to
turn them into temples with inner shrines, but
were summoned back before this idea was carried
out.
The Shore Temple, with the only two left
of the "Seven Pagodas" (legend says the others
3 8 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
were submerged by the sea), deeply impressed
me, standing as it does all alone on the verge of
the ocean. In fact, its lamp pillar, once 38 feet
high, stands well out to sea now at high tide.
Inside is a sleeping Vishnu, as well as the small
shrine where village lads and lasses were laying
their flowers before the stone, by which a fire
burned.
THE SHORE TEMPLE. SEVEN PAGODAS, MADRAS.
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, AND THE NORTH
WEST.
1900.
February 22nd. After travelling from Madras
all night we reached Bombay in the morning at
7.30. At Sholapur yesterday I began to realize
what heat during travelling really means ! Owing
to a collision between two goods trains we were
kept in that " Black Hole " of a station some
hours, and had not a friendly fellow-traveller
exchanged some ice for my biscuits and potted
meat, I don't know how I should have existed.
The water in the pipe was scalding, and a linen
gown I had hung up was as hot as if it had
been before a kitchen fire. I drove straight to
Watson's Hotel, and after refusing to inhabit a
" prophet's chamber " in the roof offered to me,
finally got some hours' rest in a decent room not
overlooking the tiles.
My first hotel in India does not impress me
well, as I had been prepared for many a hiatus in
comforts ! However, there is a large verandah
both to my room and the dining-room. But one
is as much hurried over one's meals as if this
country were America, not easy-going India.
A really good carriage, in which I could lie
40 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
back, carried me over to Malabar Hill, from
where I got a splendid view over the City and
Harbour. The bungalows mostly, however, did
not impress me, many of them falling into ruins,
with curious coloured glass balls edging garden
beds, or on balconies, and always with some
name ending in gee or with Vakie.
The street crowds are most fascinating, barring
some crippled squatters from the famine district
I saw near the great square. Here one meets
the Arab in his flowing white garments; the
Parsee, in his sort of " flycatcher " cap and his
frock-coat, with yellow elastic-side boots ; besides
Hindus and Mahommedans with every variety of
colour in their turbans, and beards dyed red and
even dark green! Japs and Siamese also jostle
one another, with Eurasians looking sadly out
on this disjointed world in which their burden
(owing to heredity, climate, and injustice) is such
a hard one. The Government Buildings are
remarkably fine, and remind me both of Vienna
and Paris. All praise to the native and Parsee
liberality that has so loyally endowed these
splendid edifices. Government House is very
insignificant in comparison to that of Madras,
with small annexes and secretaries' offices in
tents ! Surely, as India is entered by this port, a
more commodious and imposing house might be
built for the Governor of so large a Presidency !
February z$th. I much enjoyed service at St.
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, &c. 41
Thomas's Cathedral, which is really a very fine
church both inside and out, far superior to its
sister cathedral in the Southern Presidency. The
Choral Celebration was also well sung and well
attended. The Victoria Gardens and Museum
I drove out to, but the last is in sad dispropor-
tion to the wealth and size of Bombay. Being
Sunday, the crowds of natives hurrying open-
mouthed through the rooms amused me much.
The Zoo is slightly fuller of objects of interest.
February 26th. My " permit " to view the
"Towers of Silence" enabled me to see those
weird outcomes of a faith that is too spiritual to
allow of the corruption of salt, water, or fire.
The bodies, placed in troughs inside open con-
crete buildings, are devoured by the ever-waiting
vultures. When the bones are dry, and powdered
in a well at the bottom, these are thrown
reverently into the sea. The oldest so-called
" tower " (really not one at all) is over 200 years
old. I was only allowed to walk about the well-
kept garden, but was able to study the interior
from an excellent plan. A funeral procession
come in while I was there ; the body on a
stretcher was carried first, while the mourners
walked in twos, each holding an end of a
handkerchief, with a dog to keep off demons.
In one tower only suicides are placed. The view
from the terrace over Bombay and its beautiful
harbour (reminding me of Naples) is very fine,
42 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
and the whole place is well kept. Curiously
enough, the vultures neither die of plague nor
do they carry infection, though the very trees
they roost on are withered.
February 27th. To-day I visited the Caves of
Elephant a, and much enjoyed my trip over the
Harbour and its many islands. Elephanta is
covered with trees, through which steps lead up
a steep hill to the Caves. A feast was going on,
and many picturesque groups of young girls met
us. I was somewhat disappointed in the Caves,
though quite otherwise with the beauty of the
island. There is one large Temple and a few
smaller shrines, where Siva, Parvati, Demons,
Bulls, and Sacrifices are represented in the
decorations, supposed to be very early work and
considered particularly sacred by the Hindus.
The devout had smeared them over with oil and
red paint, so they presented a more gruesome
spectacle than at ordinary times, and the
Portuguese have much injured the statues and
fine entrance carvings. A Eurasian plague
doctor, who ordered us ashore, made my com-
panion (an Austrian tourist) and myself very
angry by his great insolence in not standing up
when he examined our pulses.
March ist. After travelling all last night to
Munmar and thence at 2 a.m. to Daulatabad,
I found my tonga (a sort of glorified washer-
woman's cart) awaiting me. We drove 8 miles
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, &c. 43
through a most interesting country (a part of the
Deccan), peopled by Mahommedans, with old
Arabic gateways and tombs on every hand. The
steepest of hills I had yet encountered brought us
at last to Roza, where I found to my amazement
the P.'s breakfasting in the Dak Bungalow, an
old tomb turned into a dwelling-house ! They
persuaded me to go off at once to see the Caves of
Ellora (though the thermometer stood at 100 in
the shade, and it was 12.30 noon), in order that
we might visit the old Fortress of Daulatabad
later. Oh, how hot was the expedition ! Down
to those ancient Tain, Buddhist, and Hindu caves
I walked, without any shade, but the first I had
to leave unseen for want of energy.
The great central Hindu cave, called Kailas, is
especially fine, excavated out of the overhanging
rock into an immense hall, with side chapels and
galleries, all supported by solid rock pillars. A huge
elephant, rows of heads of others (as a frieze), and
one large bull are the only animal sculptures I
saw. Siva, Parvati, Brahma, Ganesh, and
Hunaman, together with the "Seven-headed
Cobra," are all depicted. A great pillar, supposed
to have supported lamps, is an especially handsome
feature of this hugely interesting cave. I only wish
I could spend days here ! To my mind the
Buddhist Caves are not so interesting as the Kailas,
as in each case the Buddha is too grotesque to
to give me any delight in gazing on his purely
44 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
materialistic face. Such a contrast to the Ascetic
whom he represents. The red, blue, and brown
colours of the statues, also the gold and silver
paper necklaces and bracelets on a supposed Jain
one, are not conducive to religion according to
our notions. Quite exhausted, I took a good rest
before starting with the P.'s for the Fort.
Arrived there, armed with a permit from the
Nizam, we waited for a very dignified old Mussul-
man, clad in a most ridiculous costume of many
bygone days, who, with his twenty-five tattered
ragamuffins of a suite, guarded us through this
moth-eaten pile called a fort ! It was built by a
Sultan in the thirteenth century, who forcibly de-
ported here many of his subjects from Delhi. They
wisely rebelled and returned, but were brought
back again. At his death they were free, so both
town and fort became depopulated. To our great
amusement, though the old pile is without roofs
or even solid gateways, we were made to promise
not to smoke, or to use matches, nor to carry any
firearms, while being taken in chairs up the moss-
grown staircases. The view at the high summit
well repaid our climb, as did this bit of an ancient
past with its departed greatness and the dilapidated
grandeur of its Governor (so like Don Quixote)
and his ragged following.
March $rd. Arrived in Agra, and can scarcely
believe that I am at last in a place I have longed to
visit all my life ! The " India of our childhood " to
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, 6*. 45
me is up here, not in Madras, where Stevens places
it. On driving after a rest to the Tag, I found a
nineteenth-century Flower Show going on ! Truly
we English are unsurpassed in the way in which we
carry our conventional amusements about with us !
The excellent regimental band playing " Tommy,
make room for your uncle," &c., &c., struck me
as highly incongruous to its surroundings; only
the "Trauer Marsch " from Die Walkure to my
mind was a fitting serenade. With a great effort
I managed to forget all save this "poem in
marble," these " frozen tears," I had come to see
and was not disappointed.
The Tag is worth all the praises, all the poems
ever written about it. Built in 1630, by Shah
Jehan, in memory of his favourite wife, the
" Crown Lady," it is a fitting tribute to the un-
forgotten charms of this " Pride of the Harem."
The approach to it is past a caravanserai for
pilgrims through the Garden Court (with pure
water flowing through its marble tanks, and
springing from its fountains), and finally up a
staircase to the platform on which the shrine, of
red stone, is placed. Two Mosques stand as
guardians, one on either side, while four graceful
minarets are at each corner. The fretted marble
windows cast soft shadows on the two tombs,
inlaid with lovely stones and stencilled with
flowers. This " lover-husband " after being a
prisoner in his son's hands for many years, died
46 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
gazing as usual over the Jumna from the fort
to the Queen's tomb, where he now rests beside
her.
The gateway is very fine, and has quaint
circular minarets. I was kindly instructed in the
beauty of carvings and frescoes by Professor
who, after long study, is well qualified to act as
cicerone. Each window-corner and alcove is full
of diverse work, and the doors, with brass and
wood inlaid in geometrical patterns, are particu-
larly fine. From the roof of the tower we had
a most beautiful view over the Jumna and the
many ruined garden houses and palaces scattered
along its bank. The whole place is supposed to
have been designed by Austin of Bordeaux (it
bears marks of western brains and hands), and I
am told one of his descendants is well-known
in Agra.
After partaking of tea by kind invitation, I
was glad to rest for the remainder of the day.
March tfh. After service I walked through the
native quarter, and was much interested in seeing
sixty children being fed by our landlady's phil-
anthropy.
March $th. Another long visit to the Tag,
which ever grows on one in beauty, and then
in the afternoon Miss H. took me down the river
on a raft, so that I had a splendid view of all
the ruins on the banks. We stopped at the
China Mosque, a most beautiful building; it
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, &c. 4 7
must have been covered with tiles of the most
vivid and harmonious green and blue colours.
The tombs inside are not finely carved or in-
laid, all the care has evidently been spent on
the outside. We had tea in a delightful garden,
and then visited a former palace, now a Dak
Bungalow, standing in a large garden full of
orange-trees. I longed to stay in it with a few
friends, but it is too large for one person not to
feel " creepy " at nights !
March 6th. I devoted this morning to the fort
where Shah Jehan reigned and loved, and, alas !
decapitated or strangled many successors to the
"Crown Lady" in his affections. The human
heart has here another proof of its inconstancy
and inconsistency ! The fort is huge, and con-
tains, besides the arsenal, barracks, and palace,
a lovely " Pearl Mosque," a perfect gem of pure
white marble, with every pillar or shaft adorned
with minute carvings of fleur-de-lys, roses, tulips,
or just lace-work crossed and interlacing. The
court of armoury contains an English grave, a
memento of the siege, that made me think of
those other black days, when this mosque was a
hospital and workmen slept in the exquisite
alcoves of the palace ! The Durbar Halls (where
the thrones stand), dining halls, zenana, the Em-
peror's rooms and baths, are all beautiful with a
wealth of colour contrasting with the whiteness
of the marble. The Sultana's Garden (reminding
48 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
me of the one in the Alhambra), is exquisite with
wistaria, while vines and homely flowers are still
cultivated. The brilliancy of the Alhambra
colouring is not here, but still the Arabic decora-
tion in soft whites and greys is quite as beautiful
in its own way. A very intelligent soldier, who
seemed to envy his comrades in South Africa,
showed me over. I just had time before tiffin to
look over a large red mosque near the station,
built by this same Shah Jehan, and watched
some fifty boys studying in its corridors. I heard
a good story to-day of how easy it is to make a
Hindu miracle. One morning the water in a
tank was found turned bright green, and the
whole community came to worship ! " In one
night was it done, hail to Siva's power ! " When
the news came to the Professor's ears he examined
his bottles in the laboratory, and finding one
missing, sent the police to see if any red stains
were to be found on clothing near the tank.
First, red earth was found, then marks on linen
in a coolie's hut. So the mystery was out, as
this man, a workman at the laboratory, had taken
a fancy to this particular bottle, and poured it
away by the tank, where its properties turned the
earth and his clothes red, and the water green.
It is most funny the way in which the natives
cling to bottles, tins, and paper off boxes. My
tiffin basket is getting quite full of empty bottles
which A. insists upon taking on with us.
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, &c. 49
March Jth. I visited Sikandarah this morning,
where the great Akbar, Jehan's grandfather, is
buried. His two daughters lie in smaller shrines
near to his. The drive is a most charming one,
past picturesque villages, though many camels
with riders were grumbling at the length of their
journey. There is a very fine gateway to the
garden, in which stands the mausoleum of red
sandstone. The tomb below its shrine is of white
marble most beautifully carved in flowers. The
" Koh-i-Noor " formerly stood near it, under glass,
surrounded by gold on a stone pedestal, which
still remains. The name of God in ninety-nine
different forms is inscribed on the shrine. A
most glorious view I got from the height on which
it stands, over the Jumna towards the Fort. I
went on afterwards to the C.M.S. school and
compound, where lies Akbar's Christian wife, a
Portuguese of great beauty. Entering in I
watched the boys printing and learning their
lessons, but heartily wish that this excellent work
might be carried on not in clothes resembling
those of our convicts at home !
March 8th. A day of disaster ! After getting
up at 5 a.m. in order to be ready for my friends
to drive me to Fatehpur-Sikri (Akbar's deserted
city), I only reached there in time to be put to bed
for some hours in the ancient Record Office, as the
twenty-three miles of return journey had to be
faced. It is very provoking, as I am told this
E
50 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
ancient, well-preserved city is worth a journey to
India alone to see !
March loth. I was allowed to go out, so my
kind hosts drove me across the river to a wonder-
ful tomb, that of I'timadu-daulah. It possesses
a fine gateway, and many side chambers, all in
red sandstone picked out and frescoed in white.
The tombs proper are in chocolate-coloured
marble. A variety, though a separate one, is of
the usual white marble. We returned to the
quaint bridge of boats by the raft, and drove
home by the ghats, where people were bathing
and washing their clothes.
March nth. After early service I rested in
order to enjoy the Tag by moonlight, a sight
never to be forgotten by the lucky mortal who
sees it. The pearl, blending with the pure silver
and golden light, the dim cypresses and faint
splashing of the fish in the moon-bathed water,
all was unearthly, a heavenly vision ! I climbed
up over the gateway and was shown the tombs
of the " Four Handmaidens." Every inch of the
towers and alcoves is covered with frescoes and
carved work, a revelation in beauty of tracery.
March izth. Very sorry was I this morning to
say good-bye to fascinating Agra, whose bazaars
I would like to see more of, although I think I
have got some good bargains from some of them !
I was met at the Gwalior Station by my host,
and conducted to the charming " Rest House,"
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, S>c. 51
built by the Maharaja for guests, free or paying
ones. The latter must have an introduction
through the Resident, or some official. The
bungalow is carved after old original Gwalior
stone work, and the patterns are very fine. After
tiffin and a rest, I was called for and we drove off
to inspect the Fort, a hugh building standing on
a rock that dominates the whole place. I hear it
is supposed to have been founded in the third
century and called after a hermit who had cured
its founder from leprosy by ordering him to drink
from a spring near by. The Mahratti conquered
Gwalior from the Moguls, and when we became
rulers we held it for many long years, only pre-
senting the fort formally to Sindia's father in
1886. An elephant was waiting for us, and when
we had perched ourselves on his back (sitting as
one does on an Irish car), he proceeded to travel
slowly up the enormous concrete causeway that
winds up the huge rock. I like this mode of pro-
gression infinitely more than my torture on the
first and last camel I will ever ride, on Egypt's
desert sands ! We scattered divers horsemen on
our way up, and several times I expected to see
the Roman hero's feat imitated, but nolens
volens and not from patriotism. At the top a
beautiful pair of black ponies and a low phaeton
were in readiness, and I was driven off to see all
the Hindu relics and temples. On the way the
Maharaja came out to meet us with his
52 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
picturesque suite, their red or yellow Mahratti
caps adorned with strings in the same colours.
Sindia reflects great credit on the physical and
mental training that his devoted guardian and
tutor have given him. He is now twenty-
two, just recovering from a severe illness caught
while ministering to the needs of his people, to
whose well-being he gives his time, thought, and
money. He has only one wife, who shares
his amusements of bicycling, riding, and driving,
as much as possible, but of course under purdah.
The Maharaja was most kind to me, aud inquired
much about the mutual friends I had left behind.
The Jain and Hindu shrines are small but
highly interesting, and many have been collected
from other larger ruined temples and placed here
for safety.
Our duet was turned into a quartette by the
arrival of Sindia's grandfather, and the Comman-
der in Chief of the Gwalior private force. The
former, a Rajput prince, was mounted on a gaily-
caparisoned steed. Its rider was held on by two
syces, while two more puffed wearily behind. The
ropes of emeralds round the Prince's neck made
me sigh with envy ! The C. in C. was less adorned,
being in an English frock coat and with a cap on
his head.
March i$th. At 8 a.m. I was called for and
driven to the private Museum in the new city,
which, though only in embryo, is most beautifully
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, &>c. 53
copied from old Gwalior work. It is claimed
here that the Mogul Emperors took many of
their ideas for the embellishment of Agra and
Delhi from these wonderful stone traceries. The
screens especially charmed me. The exhibits are
mainly of state workmanship, and I also found
packs of old "Tarot" cards, similar to those
brought to me some years ago, besides the lovely
green glass jewellery engraved in gold I had
admired in South India. The Palace is being
fitted with electric light, so is much upset (the
Court is at the old Palace on the rock that I
could not visit), but remarkably well furnished,
in good taste. This is certainly a model state,
nothing tawdry in either administration or house-
hold decorations. The Club, also quite up to
date, was built by the Maharaja, who visits it
constantly. The stables, which I next inspected,
contain many English and Irish horses, besides
" whalers " and " country breds." The harness
work and all the excellent new arrangements for
fresh water in the horse boxes are from the design
of my kind host.
After resting I went out again about 5 p.m. and
drove through both cities, Gwalior (the ancient)
and Lashkar (the new). The elephants trumpeting
loudly accorded badly with the quiet scene, a flat
plain, out of which rises the huge rock fortress.
I tried to bargain for curios in the bazaars (very
quaint with fine, overhanging, carved stone
54 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
balconies) but found that cheap purchases and
driving in a royal carriage did not agree ! I
photographed the Maharaja's state charger, a
beautiful mottled horse with magnificent trap-
pings of brocade, gold stirrups inlaid with jewels,
and carrying on its head a plume confined by a
clasp of brilliants. Round its right fore leg it
had a crimson and gold scarf, which it waved as
it saluted me by first bowing and then rearing.
March i^th. I returned last night from a very
pleasant dinner just in time to pack up and start
by the i a.m. mail for Cawnpore, which I
reached at 3 p.m. and started off after tea to see
the scenes of the Mutiny tragedy. My driver and
guide, an old " Mutiny man," was most enter-
taining, as well as accurate (I hope), and gave me
vivid descriptions of the occurrences that had
taken place. Cawnpore is very extensively
wooded, with well laid out " Mall," and must be
an ideal bicycling resort. The scene of the
siege is very bare, and evidently had no natural
outworks, and here poor General Wheeler paid
dearly for his great mistake in trusting to a
treacherous foe. One of his daughters is still
living in Nepaul, the other killed herself, when
both father and mother were massacred at the
Ghats. There the Temple has never since been
used, being defiled by the innocent blood shed
near it. General O'Neal, my guide told me,
made the mutineers lick up this same blood !
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, &>c 55
England then had a strong arm ; may she recover
the use of her paralyzed limbs again !
The Memorial Garden, into which no native
(save servants with their masters or gardeners) is
allowed to enter, is a most lovely spot, and the
"Angel of Peace" looks pityingly down on the
fatal Well into which some two hundred murdered
women and children were thrown. The whole
place saddened me beyond words, the tortures of
those buried living, and the agonies of futile
expectations of help, I do not dare to think of.
The church filled with monuments to them, their
defenders and avengers, is well kept and hand-
some. I went on to Lucknow by an evening train.
March 15^. The " Royal " is not at all a bad
hotel, and is kept by the Viceroy's caterer, who, I
hope, will make an extended reputation for a good
cuisine. I went early this morning to the Museum
and studied (as advised to do) the good model of
the old Residency and its surrounding buildings,
made by Mr. Moore. The Jain and Buddhist
collections, brought from Muttra and other places,
are most interesting, especially one Guatama
(224 A.D.), who has a halo of rays, and some
other interesting heads formerly surrounding a
stupa. I should have liked more time, but found
the upstair rooms full of Lucknow art-figures,
inlaid iron and silver, papier mache, and vases in
clay. A large party of Mohammedan girls from
a school interested me much by their great de-
56 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
light in the collection of figures representing all
castes and classes throughout India. They evi-
dently picked out their own neighbours, and
seemed most merry arid intelligent. Their pic-
turesque saris of red and yellow were worn with
great grace, though they had most curious turned-
up slippers curled round and round at the toes on
their poor little feet. A Mem Sahib alone was as
great an interest to them as they collectively
were to me. In the afternoon I drove to the
Residency, and was much annoyed by A.'s failure
to understand our Mahommedan driver's lingo !
With some loss of temper I at last persuaded the
latter to take me to my destination, and, thanks
to " Murray," made out each spot of interest.
The situation is very beautiful, and now the soft
foliage drapes most of the scars left by bullets,
fire, or cannon. The rooms in most of the houses
must have been very small, and when in the
cellar of the Residency I thought of our friends
Mrs. C. and Miss D., pent up there with all the
added horrors of raging smallpox! Sir H.
Lawrence's tomb is a sacred spot, with his own
epitaph, " Here lies one who has lived to do his
duty : may the Lord have mercy on his soul ! "
a glorious one for any Christian soldier, dying
with or without the consolation of knowing his
Cause conquered in the end. Havelock also died
here truly a place of heroes and heroines ! The
river Ghats are very picturesque. Lucknow as a
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, &c. 57
city does not interest me, though I can under-
stand from the military point of view that it is a
desirable station to be quartered in.
March i6th. A. deserted his post at my door
at night in order to attend a native feast. I was
too angry to take him with me, and started off to
explore the Imambarah and various palaces and
mosques alone, with a most benevolent-looking
driver (reminding me much of Michael Angelo's
"Moses"). I was rather alarmed by meeting,
in a very narrow alley of a bazaar, some sixty
highly-excited Hindus, with their tom-toms and
species of carnival paraphernalia. Unlike their
Franco-Christian fellow-revellers, however, they
allowed me to pass most respectfully, though for
a moment I had feared a " shindy " with my
Mahommedans on the box. I don't think much
of the various buildings I visited. They are
mostly of stucco and, to my thinking, in bad
taste.
March ijth. As my journey to Jeypore to-day
led me again by Shah Jehan's city, I stopped for
a few hours and astonished my friends by appear-
ing at their breakfast table at 8 a.m. They are
in a pretty bungalow on the Jumna, and we
ate our oranges and drank our tea on a sweet
marble balcony overlooking the water.
At n.o I started again, and after travelling
through a most interesting country where pea-
cocks strut about, and kids gambol round their
58 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
sedate mothers, I reached Jeypore at 9.30. Alas !
I have chosen the wrong hotel, and have a weird
bedroom on a sort of stone buttress, approached
by a flight of outside steps ! I hope my lamp
will never be extinguished when ascending or
descending the same. I do not contemplate
being laid up with a broken limb in such a deso-
late abode with any equanimity.
March iSth. There are some people here
Americans but as one of the party fell on me
" tooth and nail " for admiring India (though the
saving clause was I had not seen San Francisco),
I do not dare to speak much at meals. I found
the Scotch Mission ladies most kind when I
called : they had been expecting me all the
winter. The public gardens I next visited are
called the best in India, and are certainly very well
laid out. The Albert Hall is a fine building,
Moorish in architecture, with good Jeypore open-
work screen and windows. One hall is given up
to a School of Art, and contains excellent casts
from the antique, marble statues, and good
" chromos " of the best works of Fra Angelico
and Botticelli. The enamel, brass, and jewel-
work of Jeypore are exceedingly fine, and some
Egyptian friezes and copies of scenes from the
great Hindu epic poem much interested me.
The little Anglican church is very pretty, and
Col. Jacob (the much-respected Engineer), who
read the service and preached, was one of
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, 6*. 59
the very best chaplains I have met out in the
East.
March igth. I drove Miss S. to Amber to-day,
a fortress-palace above the city. After five
miles in a landau past groves full of monkeys and
many a quaint Rajput village, we found a tonga
awaiting us. Much to my disappointment, the
Maharaja does not give his visitors elephants any
more for the steep ascent, so we were jolted on
the cobbled or shale causeway till I began to
wonder if the game was worth the candle ! The
walk up to the top of the precipice through worse
stones again reduced us to a state of exhaustion,
when finally the great courtyard was reached.
The view over the Tank and Ghats on the one
side, and the new city and the lines of fortress
walls on the other, is very fine. The Palace is a
very dilapidated building, all bad taste and
" stucco," though here and there one comes across
some good bits of inlaid marble. The glass-
inlaid and vilely coloured ceiling and doors are
truly hideous, and the vast number of uninter-
esting bathrooms very wearisome. Each sultana
and each attendant must have had a private swim
at every hour of the day, so many are there. A
goat is sacrificed to Kali every morning, and the
fresh blood on the altar completed my disgust
with the whole place. Truly here " every prospect
pleases, and only man is vile."
In the afternoon my kind friends drove me
60 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
through the city and its quaint bazaars (where
the famine-stricken wretches clutching at food are
just as Pierre Loti has described) to the " Palace
of the Winds." Its fa9ade is all of delicate
tracery, but being coloured pink (like most of the
city) reminded me of a gigantic strawberry ice-
cream ! The beautiful brass doors and my favour-
ite marble work in the great halls are well worth
seeing, and the picturesque Rajput attendants
passing to and fro gave one an idea of the huge
following of their ruler. We, of course, went to
visit the Sacred Alligators, lying like vast carbon-
ized logs in the tank. To fulfil my duty I had
them fed, but their gluttony was not a pleasant
spectacle.
After visiting the School of Art and watching
the intelligent pupils and teachers (how I wish
the Indian instructors would keep to native
patterns and not copy the conventional European,
graceless, utilitarian articles !) I was taken to call on
a minor chief's wives. Their husband was lounging
at the outer door, a fine-looking man, with head
well poised on his shoulders, a striking specimen of
this " fine, fighting race." We entered a court-
yard full of mud, donkeys, shrieking servants, and
water-carriers, and ascended in pitch darkness the
dirtiest of staircases. Only in my East End
slums have I seen as bad a one ! Our hostesses,
wives, sisters, and a grandmother, servant of the
establishment, met us with apologies for having
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, S>c. 61
taken off their gay attire as we were half an hour
late. I must confess their present garments left
much to be desired in the way of cleanliness, as
did the dirty upholstered (!) chairs on which two
of us sat in fear and trembling. We were be-
sought to eat, but protested we could not (though
under other conditions my longings for tea would
have been great), and after admiring the beautiful
brocades, good lace, and tinkling, heavy anklets,
necklaces, and wristlets of the discarded " best
attire," and peeping at the insalubrious sleeping
apartments, we picked our way out into the fresh
air. My friend tells me she could show me much
dirtier houses, as the master here is a distant
cousin of the Maharaja, and therefore of rank and
wealth. There are over a thousand famine orphans
being fed here and at Ajmere by the devoted
Scotch missionaries, whose efforts to Christianize
the people through Zenana and medical ministra-
tions are rewarded by the gratitude and love of
the natives, though public professions of faith are
not many. All through India I hear the same,
and too often with sneers at the "wasted time and
money." Neither, it seems to me is wasted the
poor are helped, instruction is given, and the
whole "lump" is a little " leavened."
The " hunting leopard " used by the Maharaja
is an awe-inspiring object, tethered as it is in the
public thoroughfare.
To my mind, picturesque as Jeypore is, in point
62 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
of beauty, interest and taste, it does not touch
Agra.
March 20th. I reached Ajmere at 6.30 this
morning, and am delighting in clean rooms over
the station, and not in a fusty Parsee caravanserai.
I am quite charmed with this pretty little town,
and wish I had not to leave at 2 a.m. to-morrow.
I started out after chota hazri at 8 o'clock,
and drove through most interesting bazaars to the
Dargah, the tomb of the great Mahommedan Saint
Christi (1235) wno * s on ty one f f ur f tne same
name. The courtyard leading to the shrine is
very picturesque, and with very large sandals
loosely tied over my shoes I shuffled about and
saw the great cauldrons into which on high
festivals the rich devout pour one thousand rupees'
worth of rice. The priests and beggars eat this
even when scalding, hunger and religion being
satisfied at one and the same time. A rare c m-
> bination ! The tomb itself is of white marble with
gold and silver doorways through which I was
permitted a peep at a silver shrine. My old
friend, Shah Jehan, built a pretty marble mosque
on one side (what a man of taste he must have
been in architecture and wives!) near which one of
his many daughters lies. A most graceful resting-
place for tired worshippers is close by. How I
wish in England our churches had this pretty
addition to them ! An enormous tank, now, alas,
empty owing to the drought (save in one tiny
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, &c. 63
pool) is just beyond, with curious pathways
leading down the rock sides. Near by is a most
beautiful open hall, once a Hindu, and afterwards
a Jain, temple. The Mahommedan present
owners have terribly pulled it about, but it still
remains a remarkably fine building. Called " the
Hut of two and a half days," as its supernatural
builder is supposed to have erected it in that time,
its real founder was Altamsh, in 1200, who used the
Jain Temple for building materials. The pillars,
of Hindu origin, are in four rows, eighteen in
each and are most exquisitely carved, many in
geometrical patterns, and each different in some
respect or other. The screen, of an unsurpassed
beauty, and also of red sandstone, is 56 feet high,
according to Murray. There are five circular roofs,
four most delicately carved. The uncarved
one has been carried off by a Raja of Jhodpur
The characters over the front mingling with the
carving are most graceful, and when, combined with
this, I had a magnificent view over the city and
the great hill called the " Taragarh," I returned
to tiffin feeling that my morning had been a most
delightful one its only drawback, the inevitable
garlands (this time two), not gratis ! I intended
to walk out and inspect the Mayo College where
the young Rajput chiefs are educated, but the
road was long and dusty, and my feet tired, so I
was content to see it from afar ! It is a handsome
white stone building, standing in large grounds.
64 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
March 22nd. After resting on my arrival in
Delhi yesterday, and also this morning, I paid a
call on the W.'s, and then drove over the bridge.
At the Monument I dismissed the carriage, and
with A. ascended to the top, whence a magnificent
view ever Delhi, old and new, is obtained. The
last is almost lost in the mist of the plains. To
Rao's house, now a Convalescent Home for
soldiers, past the ruins of the old Guard House, and
to the Cemetery, I walked. John Nicholson's
grave, the " Saint of the Mutiny," was my Mecca.
A sad, deserted spot, a blemish on the nation's
patriotism, for whom the hero gave his life. I
expostulated with the gardener, but felt that
he was not so much to blame as Nicholson's
countrymen.
March 2$rd. At 8.30, I started off to the Fort,
driving through the Kashmir Gate (what
memories it evokes !) then under that of Lahore;
thrcugh a splendid entrance of red sandstone we
passed, out of which leads a long corridor, like
the aisle of a cathedral, where are some traders'
stalls. The Barracks near by are on the site of a
former palace in fact Delhi has suffered much
more from British vandalism in its formerly
magnificent fort than has Agra ; the inner
chambers of the Zenana even being whitewashed
(oh, shades of gazelle-eyed Sultanas !) and turned
into mess-rooms ! Fortunately the large and
small " Halls of Audience " still remain. The
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, &c. 65
former is open, with an exquisite balcony and
gallery of inlaid work on marble in pietra,
representing birds and flowers, the parrots'
plumage being exceptionally brilliant. All is in
perfect taste, of course, Shah Jehan being its
builder! The smaller hall, of graceful white
marble pillars, is painted and inlaid with gold
leaf, and carved in relief. A Persian conqueror
carried off the " Peacock Throne" that formerly
stood on a most charming marble block to
Teheran with him. Every inch of these lovely
halls, Zenanas, and bathrooms, is full of
beauty. From the windows overlooking the
Jumna to the fountains and marble water con-
duits, up to the lovely roof once covered by
silver plaques (turned into rupees by the Mah-
ratti conquerors) the eye becomes almost satiated
by the colouring, graceful frescoes, and carv-
ings. Much of the pietra work has been picked
out by the soldiery, so Government is now
employing native artists to paint in with the
same colours the holes left by the thieves'
knives. There is a perfect gem of a window
in a marble screen with the " Scales of Jus-
tice " over it, an ironical symbol in the palace
of any Mogul Emperor. A " Peace Mosque"
built by Aurungzebe (Jehan's jailor-son) has a
magnificent door of inlaid bronze and wood, and
in other respects ranks with its rival in Agra in
symmetry and beauty. The " Jumma Musjid,"
F
66 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
near the famous bazaar, is of red sandstone it is
very monotonous all these great mosques being
of the same colour is the largest in India, and is
reached by long flights of steps. Of its three gate-
ways one is opened only for Royalty and the
Viceroy. Its treasures are an ancient Koran
in Kufic, a hair from the Prophet's beard,
his slipper, and the impression of his right
foot on a stone. I grew tired enough in
Europe with the Christian so-called "real"
relics I was shown, and am rapidly experi-
encing the same lassitude as regards Mahom-
medan and Buddhist ones. It is a mercy
the Hindus do not deal in them !
March 2^th. After calling at the St. Stephen's
Home (the headquarters of the excellent Zenana
Mission workers), I drove on to the ridge just by
the flagstaff, where, during the Mutiny, English
women and children clustered round their
defenders, and whence began their terrible
flight. After tracing out other spots equally
tragic in their memories, I was glad to drive into
the bustling, great bazaar, full of life, colour, and
varied nationalities. Yet I have been told in
Delhi that some enforced residents can see
nothing to admire in it ! Surely the "seeing eye "
is perhaps more wanted in India than in Europe.
Lucky I have started with a liking for dusky
peoples !
March 26th. -We started off at 6.30 to visit Old
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, &c. 67
Delhi, which legend represents as having been
founded in the fifteenth century B.C. At least,
Indraprastha (of which the ruined fort of Indra-
pat is the only surviving remains) is said to have
been commenced then. The first mention of
Delhi in history occurs at the time of the Mogul
Conquest in 1193 A.D.
The drive through miles of ruins, ancient
sites, and weird forts is a most curious one,
with a view of the Asoka Pillar (the other is
at Allahabad) in the distance. Round the gate
at Indrapat a most interesting fair was going
on, which I longed to photo, but again my
camera was stuck. A camel dak, with natives
piled on it in three separate layers, was be-
ing dragged by its trembling steed. Already
these animals are beginning to look more like
the camels of one's picture-books than do
their brethren in Agra. The quaint old mosque,
up a very steep incline, built by Sher Shah in
948 A.H., or our 1541, is, of course, of red
sandstone, inlaid (as all are) with marble and
slate, with graceful Kufic inscriptions round
it. In a hall of 64 pillars (we much dis-
cussed how Murray makes so many, but found, as
usual, he is right) lies Akbar's brother, while
there are tombs galore of Turkish poet (the
" Parrot of Hindustan "), emperor's son, holy
saint (on dit he founded the Society of Thugs a
slander, I believe), and last, but not least, of
68 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
Jehanara. She, the devoted daughter of Shah
Jehan, the sharer of his captivity, has above her
shrine her own inscription :
"The fleeting, poor Jehanara."
This is in Persian, but in Arabic stands, " God is
the Light and the Resurrection." The saint
Nizam-u-din has a most exquisite shrine over him,
walls and lattices of marble, with its doors of
especially beautifully inlaid brass work. The
custodians are descendants of the saint's family.
Humayun's Tomb is of red sandstone, on a
high platform. It took 16 years to build, by his
widow, in 1655. As usual in such places, there
are many smaller and plainer chambers surround-
ing the central one, containing tombs of others of
the Imperial family. The fine effect of pencilling .
in white and slate is very effective. We got a
most glorious view over the three Delhis (reminding
me of the three Jerichos, though, alas, only two
sites and one mud village mark them) as far as
Rao's house on the Ridge. This last statement I
took in faith. The site of the only occurrence
that blots Hodson's memory, the execution of the
two sons of Bahadur Shah, was pointed out to me.
After a good lunch and rest in the Dak
Bungalow (I should have liked to spend a
night there) we visited the famous Kutb Minar,
or Tower of Victory owing to earthquakes it is
out of the perpendicular, and is supposed to
BOMBAY, GWALIOR, &c. 69
have been begun by Al tamsh. Of its five stories
only the highest is of white marble, the others
being of sandstone. The Mosque close by is in a
ruined condition, its walls being attributed to
the same founder in 1210-1230.
The curious cloisters round are, according to
the best authorities, of both Buddhist and Jain
origin, the pillars being clearly of the Hindu
period and very finely carved. In front of a
perfectly charming screen in sandstone (covered*
as is the fa?ade of the Mosque in Ajmere, with
Kufic inscriptions, entwined with carvings) is
the famous " Iron Pillar." This is of one solid
block, very high and, according to its Sanscrit
inscription, it was called " The Arm of Fame of
Raja Deva." It is thought probable that a
figure of Vishnu once surmounted it. Also that it
was either erected in 300 B.C. or in 310 A.D. a
wide margin ! Anyhow, Bilan Deo, the founder of
of the Tomae dynasty, is reported to have erected
it. This pillar, the ruined mosque, its enclosure,
and the great Kubab, all make this spot one of the
most interesting I can ever stand in, in India or
elsewhere.
We returned by the Bazaars, passing the curi-
ous stone Elephant and Mahout from Gwalior,
and were much struck by the wonderful, lace-like
ivory carving being brought before our eyes.
Also the painters on ivory, with their tiny brushes
and fine pencils, produce such gems of minute
70 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
work in such a short time. I am much pleased
also by the jeweller in the Chouk, who has set my
Ceylon stones very artistically. In Delhi, as in
Agra, one longs to have a purse as deep as is
the necessary store of patience, in bargaining !
i
THE TAJ, AGRA.
A TYPICAL BAZAAR SCENE.
THE PUNJAUB AND FRONTIER.
1890.
March 2&th. After travelling in heat and dust
for thirty hours, we reached Lahore and parted
company for a night and day. I am at Nedou's
Hotel, an old-fashioned building, with a kind
landlord, attentive servants, and good food. Here
again I meet friends, the B.'s having stayed longer
than they expected.
After some tea I started out to do a little much-
needed shopping ; really, English shops are quite
refreshing again the first I have seen since leav-
ing Bombay! Actually there is a confectioner
here, also a good hairdresser, chemist, and dress-
makers, now packing up en route for Mussorie,
Murree, or Simla. Lahore is well laid out ; the
public gardens are capitally attended to, and
the Mall is wide, with corridors lined with shops
on either side.
March 2gth. To-day I visited the real Lahore,
and am perfectly charmed with the quaint city !
Its bazaars teem with every nationality of the
Punjaub, while at the beautifully-carved lattices in
the overhanging balconies, dark eyes peep wist-
71
72 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
fully down on the merry, surging crowd below. It
is a great mistake to speak (in our usual sweep-
ing English way) of the " mirthless, silent natives
of India." All depends where you are, and
whether you speak only of servants. Here I see
children playing and laughing, while fathers carry
their boys in their arms. Also many a coolie
group I meet enjoying a jest, probably at the
expense of the solemn Sahib who little thinks,
or cares, what are the remarks passed on him
by the respectful aborigines.
The Fort is very fine, and entered by a great
gateway. Shah Jehan (as usual) built the Palace,
which should be named that of " Looking glasses,"
so lined is it with these deformers of one's appear-
ance ! The view from the roof, over the city,
surrounded by trees, towards the river and the
fertile surrounding plain, is a particularly beauti-
ful one. In the Armoury, Sikh weapons and some
interesting bits of chain armour, as well as grue-
some hand " racks " and instruments for killing
your enemy when shaking hands with him, are of
interest to the student of Mogul warfare.
In front of the great Mosque (exactly like the
others I have visited) stands an exquisite white
marble shrine all carved with lotus -lilies and
peacocks holding necklaces in their beaks. It
is a perfect gem of architecture, and is erected
over the ashes of Ranjit Sing. To Anar Kali's
tomb I next went a poor favourite buried alive
THE PUNJAUB AND FRONTIER. 73
by Akbar for smiling on Salem, his successor !
He, when Sultan, put up this mausoleum (after-
wards a church, now an office !) as token of his
grief, with an inscription descriptive of his love.
The name of God is here written in ninety-nine
different ways, as on the murderer's tomb at
Sikandarah. At 6.50 we all three left en route
for the frontier.
March ^oth. Truly a private carriage is a most
comfortable mode of progression ! We arrived at
the historic Sukkur, the base of all operations
against the Pathans and Afghans, early in the
afternoon. Such an oriental little place it is,
reached by a splendid bridge (called after Lord
Lansdowne) which can be closed at each end in
time of war.
The Indus surrounds a fort on the island of
Bhakkur. In the bazaar, children were enjoying
the delights of the first merry-go-round I have
seen in the East, a ramshackle affair consisting of
boats and small chairs. We "trolleyed" on some
eighteen miles to Ruk, a most delightful ride,
especially as when sunset approached we met
camels eating tamarisk by the sides of the Canal,
or among the nomadic encampments of their
owners, and all was bathed in this beautiful Indian
pink glow, unlike even that of Egypt or Greece.
As we approached Ruk, we raced in order to avoid
the mail from Karachi rather a "hair-raising"
incident! We also once "cut" the line i.e.
74 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
jumped off and had the trolley removed in order
to avoid a train ! An excellent dinner awaited us.
March 3ist. Awoke this morning at Sibi at
4.30 for some tea, and at 10.30 removed ourselves
on to the buffer beam of the engine, where a most
comfortable seat had been prepared for us, Under
us was the " cow-catcher," but mercifully we did
not meet that intruding animal, nor yet a camel,
which would be much more likely to appear here !
As on the trolley, I found the swift whizzing
through the air a most sleepy sensation, and at
last a strap was fastened from end to end of the
seat to keep me in when about to nod off and
over.
This ride through Baluchistan, novel and
interesting, I thoroughly enjoyed, and except for
meals we never resigned our high elevation till
the cold drove us indoors again. It was a
wonderful ride ! On past the confines of civiliza-
tion, over desert plains, through mountains, and
^over the great Chappa Rift, on we steamed.
We met Marais, walking calmly on, or by the
line, a weird tribe of cave-dwellers with long
black hair falling into their (seemingly) longer
beards, their clothes the colour of their native
sandstone rocks ! Formerly they raided Sukkur
and Ruk, now they only (when bloodthirsty and
" spoiling for a row,") kill a station-master or
platelayer occasionally, to "keep their hand in."
Truly, the " iron horse " is a wonderful pacificator,
THE PUNJAUB AND FRONTIER. 75
or is it not the remembrance of such men as
Sandemann, Napier, Outram, and Brown?
The railway over the Chappa Rift is at a great
height, some 6,000 feet, and this enormous bridge
was opened by the Duchess of Connaught in
1887. One catches one's breath as one gazes
over the abyss into the precipice below ! From
the " cow-catcher " the river was blood-curdling !
There are eight tunnels intersecting this range,
and as the rocks above are blasted until one sees
between them, it seemed more than likely that
the vibration would cause the jagged points (some
hundreds of feet above us) to fall on our devoted
heads ! They must come down some day, I should
imagine, but fortunately the line is not much used
in times of peace from war " le Bon Dieu nous
garde ! " By the way, the interest I find all the
natives take in this disastrous war in South Africa
is very surprising ! Before Siva's shrine, a Brah-
min told me, prayers for our arms are daily being
offered, and in one small village the Collector was
presented with a herd of rough ponies. These
were offered for the use of the " Kaiser-i-Hind "
(a name revered and loved, I find, everywhere)
and about thirty were " vetted " and accepted with
gratitude. The legends in the foreign Press as to
the force used out here to make the peoples loyal
are amusing and astounding, when one sees the
truth; even making allowances for the natural
wish of ingratiating themselves with their rulers,
76 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
always an element in oriental politics. Do we
not see the same at home ? What about paying
philanthropy, or the ready purse at elections ?
To return to my " muttons." All through this
most enjoyable trip I was reminded of the Moabite
country, the lights and shades on these mountains
of Baluchistan being very similar. These wild
peoples, also, are very Jewish-looking, and I am
reminded of Sir C. R telling me many years
ago how certain he was that they are remnants of
the long-sought " Lost Tribes." Their names
are very Israelitish and at certain seasons, he told
me, they smear their lintels with sheep's blood.
At 8 p.m. we reached Quetta, in a perfect
deluge, and getting into that most uncomfort-
able of vehicles, a turn-turn, went off to our
respective quarters. Alas ! none had been pre-
pared for us, so, chilled and ravenous, we returned
to the Station Bungalow where, fortunately,
dinner was ready.
April ist. Too weary to get up early for
church, we rested until late when we drove to see
Quetta, a young station not yet attained to its
majority. The Fort, built of mud and loose
stones some 40 years ago, has only within the last
ten been re-built of mud bricks, covered with a
cement of dried dung. My host had to retire
there some 20 years ago, during a raid of the
Pathans who, picturesque as they are, look as if
they could fight well when " out for a shindy."
THE PUNJAUB AND FRONTIER. 77
The town, its well laid-out European quarters
(the gardens and trees are so beautifully green),
and the British and native soldiers' lines, are
surrounded by high mountains, where, just lately,
an adventurous shikari was nearly starved to
death, having lost his way. At 6.30, after tea in
a pretty bungalow, we went to service in the well-
kept church, full of soldiers as well as civilians.
The excellent sermon we heard preached as " man
to man," showed that here, as at home, how
important that portion of the service is, if large
congregations are to be expected.
April 2nd. Rain, and very cold ! A large mail
was fortunately awaiting me to cheer my spirits.
At 1.30 we left for Chaman, " the other end of
nowhere " the last British outpost towards
Kandahar. Although hail and rain marred the
prospect, still the scenery is very fine as over the
Khojak Pass we ascended to Chaman. Our
trolleying expedition, owing to the weather, had
to be given up. On our arrival at this primitive
outpost (where only the 3oth Baloochies and a
few other native troops with their handful of
officers are on duty) we had to find our way in
total darkness over pools, yea, lakes ! with much
impedimenta in the road, of stones, loose rails,
and last, but not least, a high sort of stile !
The Dak Bungalow, when at last our dripping
trio reached it, was fortunately prepared for us,
and after a good dinner and a warm over our
78 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
large fires, we tumbled into our mattressless beds,
thankful to be dry !
April $rd. We awoke to bright sunshine and
an air like champagne, so invigorating is it. As
my bedroom is the party's sitting-room, I went
out early to explore, but thought it wiser to take
Ram-Singh as protector among these erstwhile
subjects of the Amir ! Inside the small fort is a
still smaller bazaar, filled (as usual) with only
German and Birmingham goods and some cast-
off scarlet coats ! The people are very handsome,
and were wrapped up against the cold. Far over
the sandy plain we can see the first Afghan fort
and the white boundary pillars. We started off
to walk up to them, but found they were two
miles off, with a " suffer shake " of seven miles
between them and the Fort. As we might have
been shot by the sentry there, even had the
ground not been a morass and we used to walk-
ing (one's powers therein soon get used up in
India), the game was not worth the candle,
so we retired, guarded by a somewhat scared
A. ! A Madrasee, I find, is always " full of
precautions against real or imaginary danger!"
a neat expression of a polite phrenologist to a
particularly timid client.
In the afternoon we trolleyed to the end of the
line, which stops here until the war tocsin shall
sound. All stores are ready. Kandahar is some
eighty miles away, and I am hearing daily stories
7 HE PUNJAUB AND FRONTIER. 79
of Lord Roberts' famous march there, and the
thousands of unfortunate camels that perished
during it. These animals were falsely considered
able to carry any load, no matter how heavy, for
any distance, without water or food, save the
husks of tamarisk. Again the tales of our
childhood are proved false by the light of ex-
perience !
When the line is found necessary to be carried
on, Chaman will only be a deserted station like so
many we have seen. Ruins and graves are being
pointed out to me, once the scenes of busy life,
though a terribly solitary one for the various
English engineers, who were (and are) sometimes
months without talking to a European.
April ^th. At 5 a.m. we started again in our
comfortable carriage, as it was too cold and too
dark to trolley. This line passes through lovely
scenery, very wild, and clothed with pistachio nut
trees. At each station picturesque Pathans were
lounging, or riding past on their camels. The
purdah women, dressed in a sort of reversed
clothes-bag, embroidered on the head and with
lattice- work over the eyes, excited my interest.
Their Turkish trousers end in the high-heeled
green slippers. Altogether they present a very
quaint appearance.
April $th. To-day I inspected the Quetta
bazaars again, and had a chat with a Scotch
resident who did not surprise me by her asser-
8o A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
tion that even in winter she found her native land
warmer than Quetta.
The Club here is an excellent one, the part
devoted to ladies being not inferior to the other !
The ball-room, library, and drawing-room are all
large and airy. Everyone is excited at the
approaching visit of the Viceroy. Arches of
evergreens are being erected in the streets, and
we witnessed the arrival of the Khan of Khelat
(I believe that from him we lease Quetta) and his
ragged following, heralded by the salute of guns,
accorded to his rank.
April 6th. With much regret we left Quetta
and our kind friends at 9.30 a.m. on our trolley
again, and rode a hundred miles back to Sukkur.
The Bolan Pass railway is admirably gradiated,
and though not as picturesque in scenery as is
the Sind Peishin, still it is very interesting in its
rugged mountains. We passed many Bhruis, a
wild tribe much resembling the Marais, though
living in tents (not in caves, as they do) during
the summer months. The camels were laden
with these hairy Bedouins, their crockery, tents,
cocks and hens, and even sheep and goats ! A
motley assemblage they looked !
AMI Jth. We passed yesterday only in eating
and sleeping on our way back to Lahore, which
we reached at 9.30 this morning. In the after-
noon I drove out to see the famous Shalimar
Gardens, of huge extent, mainly planted with
THE PUNJAUB AND FRONTIER. 81
mango-trees. Stiff flower beds and numerous
conduits and tanks, with picturesque kiosks built
over them, occupy the rest of the gardens. Again
Shah Jehan is their builder ! On the way back
I stopped at the Gulabi Bagh, where all that
remains of former glory is a most beautifully
tiled gateway that once led into a famous rose
garden.
I much enjoyed the 6 p.m. service at the fine
Cathedral, and listened to a most interesting
sermon from Bishop Lefroy, who has won the
admiration and respect of both Christians and
Mahommedans.
April 8th. A terrific sand-storm is raging, but
in spite of it we joined forces at the station at
I p.m. and went to Amritsar. The Viceroy and
Lady Curzon being there, the whole place was in
gala, the streets decorated with minute " stars and
stripes " some flags most curiously all of the
latter and scarcely any of the celestial bodies ! I
feel I cannot do justice to the wonderful mixture
of colours in the thronging crowds and the
" Golden Temple." I felt quite overpowered by
the sight ! The precincts and temple itself were
full of a vast, parti-coloured, swaying crowd, in
every hue of turban and robe, with fakirs as
" nightmares" stalking through it. I had lost
any sympathy I might have cherished for these
mysterious beings before I came East ! They
only look evil smell evil and, I should imagine,
G
82 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
speak evil ! I hear of excellent C.S.T.E. renoun-
cing their palaces, families, and riches, when they
attain the age of nearly fifty, in order to wander
about as ascetics, to contemplate the emptiness
of this world, and to purify their own souls ! I wish
I could meet them, as their companion ascetics,
whether Hindu or Mahommedan, do not strike
me as looking or acting as befits saintly men even
according to their lights ! This principal temple
of our brave Sikh community (whose sect was
founded by a Hindu reformer in 1469) is covered
outside with plates that glitter in the sun hence
its name and is most picturesquely built in the
centre of a large tank. It is approached at
one end only by a handsome stone bridge from
the shore. The Sikhs are a mysterious sect who are
understood to adore their sacred scriptures called
the Granth, written by their first great Guru,
or teacher. All the worshippers were squatted
round this great volume, which is covered by
wonderful embroideries, and being fanned, (to
keep off the flies) when we entered, with cloth
sandals over our feet, so as not to defile the sacred
place with shoe leather !
The painting of the inside court, as well as the
staircases and balconies, is very bright and
effective, but a wooden kitchen clock hurt my
feelings as much as the tom-toms did my ears !
It was a most wonderful sight the mystery of
the rites and the fine features, beautiful robes,
THE PUNJAUB AND FRONTIER. 83
and proud courtliness of this fascinating race, all
added to the charm of the place. Alas for poor
Amritsar, the rain descended and spoilt all the
illuminations that had been so carefully prepared
in the Viceroy's honour ! I am glad to hear that
he has promised to replace that eyesore of a clock
with one more befitting the shrine it is supposed
to keep time in.
Owing to the downpour, we were only able to
visit one or two shops, where the prices for shawls
and carpets quite scandalized my frugal mind, so
that I left such purchases severely alone. Also
the new style of shawl decoration did not please
my taste any better than did the price. A
statue of the Queen-Empress, and a very hideous
red and blue brick clock-tower in honour of her
Jubilee, are two recent additions to modern
Amritsar.
I returned alone to Lahore and found A. waiting
for me at the station at 10.30 p.m.
April nth. After a good journey lasting
sixteen hours, I reached Peshawar. The scenery
is very beautiful on each side of the line, with
wheatfields and green trees constrasting well
against the violet mountains. The European
cantonments of Peshawar are most attractive at
this season of the year, the Mall being one
shrubbery of roses, out of which stands the monu-
ment to Colonel Mackeson, who was murdered
in the Kyber. The Military Hospital, Club>
84 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
Anglican and Roman Catholic churches, besides
pretty bungalows, all standing in bright gardens,
give these cantonments a well-kept, cheerful air.
April I2th. To-day when driving through
Peshawar city alone in my host's carriage I was
warned by a friendly shopkeeper to return, as it
was not safe for a lady to be there, this being the
Mahommedan feast of New Year. Only last year
the colonel of the Hampshires was murdered ;
and a few weeks ago the same fate met two men
who were out shooting. Truly, this is a turbulent
community !
April iqth. I much enjoy my morning walks
about these pretty grounds and also through the
green Mall. The air is cold and acts like a tonic.
Formerly Peshawar was called " The White
Man's Grave "; now it is well drained and is, at
this time of the year, very healthy. The Horse
Show to-day brought together many good animals :
ladies' hacks, chargers, ponies, and carriage horses.
I much admired the non-commissioned officers
of the I2th Bengal Cavalry, both as horsemen
and fine-looking men.
April 15^. To-day I had a good opportunity
of seeing this fine regiment at close quarters on
their parade ground. The dress of the native
army is both picturesque and serviceable, which
last adjective cannot always be used as regards
that of the British forces !
We drove this afternoon through the city,
THE PUNJAUB AND FRONTIER. 85
where I was saluted by having a stone thrown at
me. Luckily it only hit my shoulder. The bazaars
are rather disappointing, as there are no carved
balconies or stone carvings, as in those of Lahore
or Gwalior. Still, I greatly admire the people,
though not their fanatical temperament. We
visited the C.M.S. Church, built by Sir Henry
Norman in memory of his daughter. The lovely
carvings on altar, pulpit, and walls were all done
here, and I think are far handsomer than any
other in wood I have seen in India. The
missionaries, both male and female, all live here
in the centre of their work, like the brave
pioneers they are, and I only hope they may
continue to do so in safety.
To-night at dinner I met the Colonel of the
disbanded corps of Kyber Rifles, a most courtly
old Pathan, who, for his loyalty to, and friend-
ship with, English people, is constantly living
with his life in his hand. If I lived here I should
certainly learn to use a revolver! As it is, I am
glad, as the guest of the General, to have his
Dogara guards stationed just outside my windows !
April ijth. To-day I visited the Khyber, and
drove as far as I was allowed. The Pass is only
open on Tuesdays and Fridays, when it is secure-
ly picketed with the newly-raised corps of Rifles.
I started at 6.30 in a landau, with A. on the box,
and had a most interesting series of views over
the Peshawar plain, passing many curious-looking
86 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
towers, where my driver said the peasants grind
their corn. A cemetery, an arbour of roses, and
an outpost, we left behind before reaching Jam-
rud, some ten miles away from Peshawar. In
the early morning glow the snowy peaks peering
out between the violet mountains were most
striking, and soon seemed to enfold us in mystery
as we entered them. Jamrud consists of a fort
of baked bricks and dung, with a guardhouse and
serai some little distance away on the other
side of the road. At the last all was confusion,
as camels, baggage, donkeys, and owners were
passing out, or waiting (with grunts and cries) to
be loaded. Some five hundred of these animals,
and bullocks as well, blocked our passage. A
functionary at last made his way to me through
the shrieking crowd (Babel would not have had
a " look in " I am sure !), and, after inspecting my
pass, said my turn-turn was waiting, also my guard,
a Sowar or mounted Khyber rifleman. He was a
very good-looking young lancer in khaki (turban
as well as tunic and breeches) with revolver, sword,
long gun, lance, and ammunition bag ! Truly,
too formidable a person to be attacked and an
excellently fierce guardian for me. Poor A., hug-
ging the huge black stick which he had bought
when frightened by the stories of Pathan atrocities,
looked very comical, and I am sure he would drop
it if called upon by an Afghan to do so ! Still,
he looks after my comforts very well, though
A SOWAR IX THE KHYBER PASS
THE KASHMIR GATE, DELHI.
THE PUNJAUB AND FRONTIER. 87
hookah accounted for the reason of his collapse
yesterday !
At last we got off, the shrieking camels, yelling
Afghans, and the donkeys (only bundles of moving
bales) were all pushed aside by my sowar, and in
my heaving, springless turn-turn I proceeded
at a hand gallop towards the interior of these
mysterious mountains. These eastern scenes of
primitive struggle (in which " the survival of the
fittest " means the crowding out of those that
have the best right to be there) are very fascina-
ting to watch. All the same, as a pleasure-seeker,
I felt inclined to apologize to these hardy dwellers
on their native heath who were anxious to begin
their long ten -days' march to Kabul. One camel
had her few-hours old baby strapped on her
back, and its expostulations testified to excellent
lungs. Larger infants, of two and three days'
sojourn in this world of woe, were trotting, wailing
also, by their mothers' sides !
Away we drove, into a narrow gulley between
these frowning mountains, where Afridis and
Afghans have swarmed like bees so often, and
killed our countrymen and women ! The watch
towers, many in number, began to appear, and as
we had got well clear of the caravans, we made
good progress along the excellent high road. The
scenery here became more and more Scottish (with-
out the heather). This and the cold reminded
me of my drive through the Pass of Glencoe.
88 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
This memorable Khyber, or Khaiber, Pass, as far
back as 1837, was the scene of the war between
Hari Singh and Dost Muhammad ; and again in
1842 the tribes blocked it against General
Pollock's regiments, who, however, finally
scattered them, and advanced as far as my goal,
Ali Musjid. In 1879, an d again later, this last
fort has been the scene of much fighting, and has
only recently been re-built, after having been
burned down by the Afridis. The women of this
tribe are very Italian-looking (as are also the
peasants near Agra) and wear blue and red shirts
with long hanging sleeves. Both Afghan and
Afridi women look as hardy as their men-kind,
and are quite as heavily burdened when not
perched on camels.
On arrival at Ali Musjid, after consultation
with my guard, I left him below, and with A. and
a wild-looking rifleman to carry my tiffin basket,
climbed up the hugh rock on which the fort is
built, about 1,000 feet above the sea level. We
took short cuts up goat-tracks, and a very breath-
less climb it was in such a rarefied atmosphere !
Still, when once up, the glorious view up the
defile towards Lundi Kotal, leading on to Kabul,
well repaid my labours. I felt disappointed at
not being allowed (as I was alone), to go to the
very end ; still I am sure my advisers knew best.
Inside the Fort enclosure is a Rest House,
where I breakfasted in company with a goat and
THE PUNJAUB AND FRONTIER. 89
two ravens. The air was very cold but invigora-
ting also, and I much enjoyed, from my perch,
watching the windings of the defile far below me.
Before descending at n, I was taken all over the
Fort, a very strong outpost, pierced, both on the
lower and upper floors, by loopholes commanding
the range opposite, and all approaches. These
are protected by iron shutters, and when on the
roof, corrugated iron eaves shelter the riflemen.
Only in case of artillery posted on the crags
opposite would the place be indefensible. The
men's quarters, too, are very comfortable, and well
suited to native requirements. In fact, our poor
British soldiers in South Africa, I am sure, would
not find them at all amiss ! A. had some difficulty
in understanding the lingo of our guide, who was
civil and respectful. On the way down I met one
of the English officers on his way to Lundi Kotal,
in the picturesque uniform of the Corps. He
seemed proud of his men, as are all my friends in
command of native cavalry and infantry. Truly,
the Russian officer now lecturing in St. Peters-
burg on the friction that exists throughout India
between the native regiments and their officers
must have read out his own wishes in his
discourse, not what he saw with his own eyes or
heard with his own ears ! If anything, the balance
of the entente cordiale lies on this side not on
that of the British regiments, excellent as it is in
many corps.
SIMLA, KASHMIR, AND LADAKH.
1900.
April list. From Peshawar to Simla is a far
cry. It has taken me three days to get here, as I
stayed one night at Umballa and another at
Solon. My tonga was in waiting for me at Kalka,
at 10 a.m. yesterday, and after a good breakfast,
and seeing my heavy luggage put on a bullock-
cart, I started off up the spurs of the Himalayas.
The scenery is very fine all the way, and Kasauli
and Dagshai, both military stations perched on
the old road (formerly called the Grand Hindustan
and Tibet Road), were salient features as we left
the plains behind. Major Kennedy in 1850 first
discovered Simla and introduced it into notice as
a sanatorium. He was political agent at Subathu
after the re-arrangement of the Hill Country in
1815, following on our conquest of the Nepaulese.
We also then exchanged land and granted terri-
tory to the Rajas of Patiala and Keontine, thus
gaining the coveted Simla.
The new road passes over the Gumbhar and
winds ever higher and higher until Suru is reached,
where the Hill-dwellers have made their gardens,
90
SIMLA, KASHMIR, 6-c. 91
whose produce they send by bullock carts or on
ponies' backs to the summer capital of India.
Solon is about 4,000 feet up and possesses a
new and comfortable Dak Bungalow where the
meals are well cooked. From the verandah I got
a superb view over the mountains, which reminded
me, like the Kyber, of the " Land o' Cakes." I
was much interested and amused by seeing a
squad of convalescent soldiers being exercised up
and down the Khud, spades in hand, aimlessly
digging out earth and stones. The want of
interest in their play and its utility were of about
equal value.
When at 2 p.m. to-day I started off again, the
gorges and pine woods grew finer, the mountains
higher, until at last we got views of Patiala's
shooting-box, and Simla, towering above us.
The road is an exceedingly good one, round whose
abrupt corners the plucky, well-fed horses
changed every four miles dashed with unerring
hoofs. They reflected great credit on their
owner at Kalka, the mail horses being, if any-
thing, even finer. I tried to pick up more Urdu
words from my driver, as I preferred sitting on the
front seat to being behind, and found my camera
was of great interest to him. and his fellows
at each stopping place. At last we found our-
selves slowing down in the narrow bazaar of Simla
where my host awaited me with a rickshaw and
four jhampannies as the coolies are called in India.
9* A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
April 22nd. I am quite delighted with this
Swiss Olympus, where greater and lesser deities
(the last not having any place in the Celestial
circles at home) cool themselves from April to
November. Round these gather many of the
holiday-makers from Bengal and other presi-
dencies, who are anxious to join the charmed
circle for either health's, wealth's, or recreation's
sake. Mingled with these are, I hear, various
Rajas and their Europeanized families.
From my bed-room balcony I get a beautiful
view of the ranges down to the plains, while
under and above us bungalows hang on the sides
of Jako, Elysium, and Prospect Hills, like so many
swallows' nests.
April 2%rd. This morning we "rickshawed" to
church, an unimposing edifice quite unworthy of
this rich place. It is a strange sight to see the
square in front full of every description of rickshaws,
from the private ones all duly lacquered, with the
jhampannies in every shade of turban and putties
(some with silver badges and crests on their
breasts and heads) down to the tattered vehicles
drawn by wild looking, sparsely clothed Hill-
men, with nothing but a dirty rag tied round their
bushy heads. The only horse carriages allowed
up here, owing to the small lanes that lead up and
down to the bungalows, belong to the Viceroy,
Commander-in-chief, and Lieutenant Governor of
the Punjaub. It is very cold, fires being a
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 93
necessity all day, and a lovely walk up Jako to see
the old Fakir and his monkeys was quite spoilt
by rain.
April 2$th. I rode this morning round the
Viceregal Lodge, and down into Anandale, where
gymkhanas and polo are to be witnessed. My
new gee will certainly have to be given up if
he persists in standing on end in the Mall
when a carriage or rickshaw passes us. I am
much amused at the Simla method of paying
calls. Nine times out of ten cards are deposited,
not at the house, but in a box hung up a tree
perhaps some hundred feet below its hall door. I
hear many are the jokes played by schoolboys on
the owners of these boxes, also they advertise
to the blase bachelor which lady he will not find at
home. A story was told me of how this same
gentleman often rides up a road without stopping
until he sees the sought-for little box hung
out. How I wish in London we had the
same device. Alas ! bricks and mortar and
sophisticated passers-by render this social bene-
volence impossible.
April 26th. The snows are again magnificent,
but, as usual, rain came on early in the afternoon.
The Mall has excellent shops which are now
opening for the season, but Kipling's description
of its smart rickshaws, bright dresses, and lovely
faces will not hold good. The theatre and library
are well built, and the bazaar below is full of
94 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
native interest, Hill-women being particularly
pretty and piquante.
May 6th. My first pic-nic at Mushobra. As
my horse still shies, I " rickshawed " round the
narrow paths that top the precipices, and
through a quaint tunnel in the heart of one spur,
until we reached the scene of our host's hospi-
tality. The Viceroy's country house, " The
Retreat," well deserves its name and stands in a
most splendid situation.
The woods beyond Mushroba, a village largely
built over by enterprising builders, are most
beautiful. The Hill-people are very Italian
looking.
May i^th. To-day we went for another pic-nic
to Mushroba in order to attend Sippi fair, the
festival which even draws the jaded Simla resi-
dents. This time my new horse carried me well,
and the roads are excellent for cantering.
Fortunately we spread our lunch not far from the
Gables Hotel, as a perfect deluge descended
just as we were at our dessert. About two
thousand feet below we found the fair in full
swing, when the rain and thunder ceased,
and a truly picturesque scene it was ! A feast
of colour and a pandemonium of sound ! The
women clad in red, yellow, pink, orange, and
blue saris, with silvern frontlets, silver
chains hanging from their ears, glass and silver
bangles and tinkling anklets, were riding in
SIMLA , KA SHMIR, &c. 95
merry-go-rounds, laughing and screaming, or
those of higher caste sitting in sedate rows
on a bank under the pines. My escorts in-
sisted that they were placed there as a sort
of marriage market, but on making further
inquiries I found all as usual quando non e vero e ben
trovato I The fair was held in honour of a local
god whose shrine is there, while an elephant,
painted with sacred symbols, trumpeted his
praise as he carried the faithful about. Among
other attractions were a sort of three card
trickster and a roulette board, as well as the
more eastern amusements of a snake charmer
and a reader of horoscopes.
The return journey from Mushroba was a pain-
ful climb, and I pitied our poor horses.
May ijth. The Viceregal garden party was a
pretty sight to-day. The house of white stone has
excellent reception rooms, and stands in good
grounds, commanding a magnificent view over
the ranges down to the sweltering plains below.
Lady Curzon with her usual grace received both
English and natives. The gorgeous gold and red
brocades of the latter gave a touch of orientalism
to the gathering and made me remember that
I was in India after all. The guards are a
fine set of men, appearing conscious of their own
dignity.
May 2$th. The birthday ball to which we
proceeded after a dinner party was a very pretty
96 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
sight. Every description of uniform (except
naval), from cavalry to volunteers, with a goodly
sprinkle of diplomatic dress, was an excellent
coloured frame for the light dresses of the
feminine part of the gathering. I saw a greater
blaze of diamonds and finer jewels generally than
at any other ball or entertainment I have been to
throughout India. The dresses, too, were fresher
and more up-to-date than at most parties here.
The ball-room, a splendid hall, was too crowded
to allow of much dancing, which, owing to the
late hour at which the State Lancers began, did
not commence before n p.m. The long line of
Viceroys' portraits in the A. D. C.'s room (where
light refreshments were served) interested me
much, and as we compared the differences in
intellectual capacity displayed in them all, I
wondered at the buoyancy, on the tumultuous
waters of mingled nations and religions, of the
bark of the Indian Empire! The " stroke " has
pulled steadily, with perhaps an exception here
and there, and has felt that his loyal crew behind
him were all pulling hard for the sake of the old
country, which has never spared blood or money
to keep her great dependency. Never perhaps has
a Viceroy better understood the needs of the
Empire, nor seen for himself its furthest limits,
than Lord Curzon. A great feature in the hall is
a silver howdah, presented to one of his pre-
decessors. It looked more gorgeous than com-
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 97
fortable, though several couples seemed to like
their high elevation;
June 2th. The far-famed "A.D.C." gave to-
night " The Manoeuvres of Jane," a play almost
impossible for amateurs to render properly. The
two principal parts, " Jane " and " Lord Bab-
child," however, were admirably acted by Mrs.
Bingley and Major Carson. The famous B.-P.
was much missed as stage manager, and other
successors to him are also out in South Africa.
June 6th. M. and I are now at Murree, having,
with " Dobbie" and her pup, been travelling for
three days from Simla, via Lahore and Rawal
Pindi. At the last place our tonga was awaiting
us, while A. and the kitmagar disposed themselves
on the top of our heavy baggage in an ekka.
They will not arrive at Baramula (our starting
place for boating down the Jhelum to Srinagar)
for four days, so we are stopping two days at
Murree, in order to allow them to arrive before us
on the boat. It is a very dusty, dull drive up
from Pindi, and at Irant we had not even a good
tiffin to comfort us. As Powell's hotel at Murree
was full, rooms were engaged for us at the Sunny-
bank Hotel, a misnomer, as it is really only a Dak
Bungalow, and has not even the appearance of
anything else.
June jth Another illusion vanished ! From
accounts written to me in England from
Murree, I had always pictured it as a beautiful
H
98 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
Hill station, teeming with life and gaiety. In
dhandies (an excruciating means of progres-
sion, a sort of Rob Roy canoe, carried by four
bearers all mine were of unequal height), we
started out to see the station, and found it mainly
a sort of untidy clearing in magnificent woods.
The bungalows, with very few exceptions, look
uncared-for, green with damp, standing in melan-
choly compounds. At present the gaiety is nil
as, owing to the war, Murree is an Adamless
Eden. The Mall is short, with a few poor shops,
but the rents, I am told, are very high.
June gth. We were both very glad to get on
to-day, and the pup opened his eyes in time to
gaze on the beauties of Kashmir. The scenery
grew more and more lovely as we galloped by the
sides of the Jhelum, a perfectly impracticable
river for boating purposes. Within a mile of
Kohala, we were stopped by three landslips
(thanks to the heavy rains of the past week), but
were fortunate in finding an officer and his wife
on their return journey, waiting to exchange
tongas with us. We waded through about two
hundred yards of mud, into which I sank over my
ankles, before we reached the haven of the other
carriage. From Kohala, during tiffin, we had a
lovely view over the suspension bridge into
Kashmir, though, at first, after driving over it, our
attention was too much taken up by the execrable
roads, into whose bogs our unfortunate steeds
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 99
floundered nearly as much as our carriages did in
the morass of the Kishon, to do more than
hold on tightly and abuse the P.W.D. of
Srinagar. Finally we were able to think of the
lovely scenery, which changed at about every five
miles from Scottish to Swiss, and from Norwegian
to Italian. The grass, too, reminded me of the
" Green Isle." At last, after a drive that lasted
from 10 a.m. till 4.30 p.m., we stopped for the
night at Dulai, whose charming Dak Bungalow is
placed just above the rushing torrent, with trees
and woods all round. A really idyllic place for a
honeymoon, as the guide books say. After a long
day of being cooped up, " Dobbie " and " Tops "
were riotous in their freedom. The latter fell out
of the tonga once, as we were going at full speed,
and we fully expected to pick up a dead pup,
instead of such a lustily screaming one that not
even his mother's licks could quiet him for a
long time.
June loth. Our last stage in the tonga, which
lasted for seventy miles, from 6 a.m. to 5.30 p.m
Still, so magnificent was the scenery that we did
not seem to drive a mile too far. Snow-clad
mountains peeped over hills covered with deodars
and cypresses to remind us of Italy, and fields of
rice and maize to recall us to the East. Gardens
of wild iris, hedges of pomegranate, droves of
camels, and chattering monkeys, all interested us
too much to remember the dust and the cramped
ioo A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
position. The report that bears, also, are found
here added to the romance of the journey. At
nine we had a good meal, in company with two
cavalrymen, who glared with the usual English
hauteur (i.e. insular bad manners) at the two
feminine invaders of their solitude. As usual, the
fact of a few mutual acquaintances thawed the
Arctic temperature of their national manner. The
present foreign cabal against our nation is, I am
sure, as much owing to our manners as to
jealousy of our prosperity. It is so much wiser,
as well as pleasanter, to cultivate friendly rela-
tions with individual strangers, whether foreign
or from one's own fatherland, that I cannot
understand why the reverse is so much more
often the case.
At last we reached Baramula, and were there
surrounded by a salaaming crowd of nine servants,
their women-folk meekly standing in the rear as
inferior mortals. Mr. Cockburn, of Srinagar, had
kindly carried out all my instructions, and we
found a comfortable doonga* for our own use,
and a cooking one, on board which our servants
and the crew will sleep. We have a small prow
just large enough for a table and two chairs
(besides place for the men and women who punt)
with an inner compartment for sitting and bed-
room, divided by a curtain. Beyond is our bath
dressing-room, with a small space for our cabin
*Native boat of poles and mats.
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 101
trunks and bonnet boxes. We saw all our pro-
visions unpacked and stowed away in the lockers
placed in the floor of the boat ; also investigated
and took inventory of what the agents had sent
us. The lovely evening breeze stole through our
mat walls and we were lulled to sleep by the
swishing of the water against the boat.
June nth. The earlv noises and screams from
the village and our cooking boat roused us betimes
the latter we must have farther away during
our next halt, but it is difficult for A. to bring
us our food without it being in close proximity.
We have decided to have breakfast at 7.30, tiffin
at twelve, tea at four, and dinner at seven. Six
chickens cost Ri., also a loin and neck of lamb
the same price. Truly we shall refund ourselves
the expense of our long journey at this rate. We
are told that eight annas a day should feed one
person in Kashmir. Nous verrons ! The banks
at Baramula are rather flat, edged with willows.
It is a largish village of thatched mud huts.
We boated all day until 5.30 p.m. when we
reached Sopor, a quaint little town possessing a
bridge of boats. Several other doongas are here
whose owners are fishing for mahsir, the fish of
Kashmir. We were seized with a desire to do
likewise, so were removed outside the small and
very smelly port, but retired discomfited, as no
fish would rise. They never do, as far as I am
concerned, so I hate the gentle craft. Our boat-
102 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
man, however, caught some small fry that will eke
out our eggs for breakfast. It is such a pity that
Kashmiris dress in sackcloth, as they are a very
good-looking race. Our three women on board,
and one little girl, are all extremely handsome,
with large, dark eyes, creamy skins, and long black
hair falling nearly to their knees in two long
plaits, much aided by twine of the same colour.
Mahundoo, our headman, is already becoming a
little too masterful and wishes us to reward his
youngest son, a boy of about six, with pice in
return for the wild flowers he gathers, regardless
of their stalks.
June izth. After an agitated night, owing to
"Tops'" wails I dread a watery grave for him
we set off for the Wular lake, which, according to
Murray, is dangerous, and must be crossed early
in the day, so we started at 9 a.m. through a
perfect carpet of water-lilies. When near the
bank, we gathered many to adorn our hanging
Kashmiri basket and a wicker eau-de-Cologne
bottle, our only vases. Again as ever the scenery
is a joy, low hills with a background of snow
mountains (at sunset a harmony of violet and
pink), with great chenar trees and green fields at
their feet, among which nestle brown wooden
houses with thatched roofs. It is a wonderful
lake, the largest in all India, twelve and a half
miles long by five broad, dotted with many small
islands, houses and trees casting long shadows
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 103
on the clear water. One curious village extends
over several tiny islets, built of various materials,
mud, bricks, matting, and wood. Here we bought
a goose, and it must soon be killed to stop its
cackling which disturbs the peaceful scene. The
weather is perfect, and the nights, though cool,
are never cold. Owing to the heavy floods we
are rather slower than we should be. At Hajan we
entered a small canal between banks of buttercups,
and anchored at night at Sumbal. We made our
tea on the bank, under a grove of mulberry trees,
whose delicious fruit was our only dessert. Sumbal
has a quaint bridge, in full view of which, near the
watering place, and close by a cedar farmhouse,
we are anchored. Our dhobie* professes not
to be able to wash our clothes short of taking
them over to Srinagar, so we have allowed him
to take his departure, fully intending it to be a
final one, when our clothes are returned !
I took an evening walk through the mud village
(where there are no curios to buy) and over the
bridge, and was much interested in watching some
two hundred mares and foals, all belonging to the
Maharaja, who rears these last for tonga purposes.
The chenar trees here are superb, and when the
moon rose over the bridge the scene was almost
unearthly in its beauty.
June i$th. Another alteration in the rapidly
changing scenery on the Jhelum ! At nine last
* Washerman.
io 4 A yOURNAL IN THE BAST.
night, a storm being expected, we made all tight
as we supposed, but at 12 p.m. we were awakened
by a hurricane of rain, thunder, and lightning.
Our mats blew heavenwards, so up I rushed and,
after covering both beds with our waterproof
sheets (M, has a chill already), hastened to tie
down our walls as best as I could. In the bath-
room I found all tables overturned, and dresses,
&c., rapidly trying to fly overboard. It really
seemed as if out into the river we must drift, and
that meant most probably a watery grave in the
Wular lake, so we made up our minds to dress
warmly and get ashore. However, at 2 a.m.
providentially the storm abated, and our
ropes and stakes having held together, we
got some sleep, until at 5 a.m. it again began to
rain and thunder, though with less wind. After
our bad night we were glad to pass a quiet day,
especially as the weather was still stormy. I went
into the village for fifty yards of rope, with which
the men have lashed the boat all round outside
and in, so that the mats can be kept tight between
them, in case we undergo such a stormy experi-
ence again. I visited some of the neighbouring
houses in the afternoon, all being very Chinese
looking, built of wood, on piles, without win-
dows. In a big inclosure in a grove of chenar
trees we came on a Hindu Temple, and as
no one was looking, we carefully opened the
door, but found only another small enclosure,
SIMLA. KASHMIR, S>c. 105
filled with carved stones and symbols round a
monster tree.
June iqth. After another small squall, we
awoke to brilliant sunshine, so started off at
8 a.m. in a little fishing boat, to the Manasbal
lake. It is entered by a small canal, crossed by a
most picturesque stone bridge, and on our return
we met quaint country boats, loaded with timber,
on their way to Srinagar or Baramula. Manasbal
much resembles Derwentwater, and is carpeted
with the most beautiful water-lilies I have ever
seen. On its crystal surface mountains and
chenars were clearly mirrored, while an old fort
on one side, and various villages on the other,
reminded us that we were not in fairyland, only
in its best earthly imitation. Mahundoo brought
the boat up at the foot of a high cliff, nearly
opposite the village of Manasbal, where a clear
stream and splendid trees provided us with drink
and shade. A deceased fakir's cave we were
taken to see, mainly, I imagined, for the replenish-
ing of its present owner's pocket, and afterwards
we insisted upon enjoying ourselves in our own
way. The view over the lake, and its encircling
violet and green mountains, was a perfect picture,
while at our backs the bridle path up the moun-
tain was constantly being traversed by Kashmiris,
driving their shaggy ponies in front of them. At
12.30 it became too cold to remain, so after a
good tiffin of tea and eggs, we rode across to the
106 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
old fort and tried to find sleep under its walnut
and apricot trees.
June i^th' Here we are anchored below Srina-
gar, after winding our way past Shadipore, with
green fields and splendid groups of trees on either
hand. A quaint canal, bordered by old cedar
houses, leads again into the Jhelum, and is
spanned with a gaudy, red, white, and green
bridge, which connects the Maharaja's various
pavilions. Such a house-painter's nightmare as
his palace is a blot on this exquisite river, and the
old town on its banks is an eastern Venice.
Quaint old wooden bridges, and a modern stone
one, connect the banks on which hospitals, court-
houses, summer palaces, and quaint mosques
all point to the new learning and to the ancient
religion of the Kashmiris ! We Europeans are
only allowed to anchor in certain spots either in
the Munshi Bagh (an orchard lying between the
Takht Hill and the river), the Chenar Bagh, or
where we are, just below Cockburn's agency. Few
European residents are allowed in Srinagar, in
fact only the officials, (who guide the Maharaja
and his durbar in the paths of retrenchment and
sanitary knowledge), the missionaries, and a few
agents and bankers.
June i6th. Again our anchorage is all we could
desire. There is even a large chenar tree under
which we can have tea, if the swarms of remark-
ably handsome and dirty children will allow. We
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 107
have hired a small boat, and sallied forth in it to cross
to the shops. Srinagar much reminds me of Cadi-
nabbia, as the causeway bordered by trees leading
from the Munshi Bagh to the agency is wonder-
fully like the Italian road by the side of Como.
The Takht, crowned by an ancient Hindu
temple, looks down on the city, and nestling at
its foot is the excellent C.M.S. hospital, where
the Drs. Neve minister to both soul and body.
To them we also owe a debt of gratitude for their
excellent guide book, from which we took an
itinerary for our excursion on the Jhelum.
After going through accounts with Mr. Cock-
burn, and admiring all the treasures of embroid-
ery, carving, and turquoise work which his sister's
room contained, we spent the afternoon in the
bazaars, and invested in some lacquer work. The
merchants followed us to the doonga and
bothered us so much, that, by the time the night
descended, our feelings of irritation with these
importunate gentry reached such a pitch that
much bathing in the soft moonlight was required
to allay it.
June ijth. After two good services in the pretty
church, whose compound is one blaze of holly-
hocks, we went over the hospital. Such a clean,
well-ventilated place! Both Dr. Neve and his
brother have designed many of the instruments,
tables, and electrical batteries in use, and have
had them constructed here by native craftsmen.
io8 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
It is a curious sight to see the patients' families
squatting down by the bedside, as, owing to caste
prejudice, relations up to the number of four are
allowed to be at hand to prepare the food and
drink. Six Tibetans are among the other patients,
and very odd their Mongolian faces look, peeping
over the blankets. Their principal woes are
from tumours, cataracts, and dislocated thighs.
We rode on beyond the Chenar Bagh, and had
tea, and also a vain search for water-lilies.
June iSth. 1 interviewed Dr. Mitra to-day
at the State Hospital, while he was examining
many out-patients suffering from ophthalmia.
He is said to be clever and certainly his hospital
looks clean and up-to-date.
A perfect afternoon for the Dal lake. A pretty
canal, called after an apple tree, leads by many
windings past the Tahkt into the Chenar Bagh
(where only bachelors are allowed to camp), a
pretty spot, but I should think unhealthy in time
of flood. A great lock here pents up the lake
water when required, so w r e got out and walked
round it, while our men, with many calls to Allah,
dragged our cockleshell through the rushing
torrent by means of a huge iron rope. As we
proceeded in our boat, we found that the lake is
really mostly a morass intersected by small canals,
while floating gardens are a great feature of the
scenery. Mountains enclose it on one side, and
small villages cluster on the other. We went to
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c 109
the very end in order to have our tea in a Persian
garden. This is called Shalimar, and was laid
out by Shah Jehanghir for his wife Nurmahal.
Italian workmen have left their traces in graceful
kiosks, and a grand hall supported by black
marble pillars, looking over clear water tanks,
where on great occasions fountains spring up.
Chenars, cypresses, and mulberries, with well laid
out flower beds, form a most charming garden.
Against the sky the sombre mountains stand,
All capped with snow,
While, at their feet, an eastern garden fair
Gleams soft below.
June igth. We spent our morning among the
ruins of Old Srinagar. A more recent one is a
mosque built by Queen Nurmahal, and therefore
unfit by the sex of its builder for the worship of
the only soul-possessing portion of the human
race. The one named after Shah Hamadan is
most picturesque, entirely of wood, and well-carved.
Its roof, with a spire, is 'covered with grass, and
from every part of the Jhelum or city forms a
pretty feature of the scenery. The tomb of Zain-
ur-Abuda we made out, thanks to Dr. Neve's
guide book, a very ancient brick ruin surrounded
by stones with inscriptions.
The Jumma Musjid is placed in a most curious
compound, intersected with tanks and channels
for the water, among which are other graves of
no A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
kings. The great outer hall, supported by enor-
mous pillars of deodar, is very like a Choutrie*
in South India. It is difficult to realize that one
hundred and twenty thousand people, mostly
Mahommedans, live in Srinagar. In cholera times
the difficulty of sanitation must be very great.
Still I noticed everywhere water pipes in the
bazaar, so that no one need drink the water from
the Jhelum, as, judging from the crowds in that
river and the countless dirty sackcloth garments
being washed there, few could do so with
impunity.
I attempted to climb the Tahkt in the afternoon
(a thousand feet only), but began too late, so
when within some two hundred feet of its temple,
had to return owing to the darkness. At sunset
the view over Hari Parbat (crowned by a fort),
the peaceful river lined by house-boats and
doongas, and beyond to the snows, was well
worth a climb to witness.
June 20th. We started o ff at 6 a.m. to drive
to Gulmarg, the Simla of Kashmir. This
being the case, we determined only to stay a
night and then to fly from the haunts of our
fellow countrypeople. After driving for some
hours, we found dhandies awaiting us at the foot
of the mountain, which is 8,500 feet above the
level. The station is laid out on a flat mountain
top, with glades and smaller heights surrounding
*Hall for merchants.
SIMLA , KA SHMIR, &c. 1 1 1
it, while other mountains enclose it. Tents and
huts dot the marg or meadow, which is large
enough also to admit of polo and golf grounds, a
racecourse, tennis courts, church, and library.
Mr. Headon, of Lahore and Srinagar, has lately
opened a hotel, where we have put up for the
night. Cattle and horses are grazing in abun-
dance, and a small bazaar supplies minor
necessities. My entering walk among the pines
was a very beautiful one, and so close are the
snows, that it is difficult to realize that it takes
some hours' climbing to reach them.
June 2ist. After an hour's reading of the mails
for the past two weeks, the news from China
makes me give up finally all idea of venturing so
far. In a thunderstorm, varied by much wind,
we began our descent, also in dhandies, at 12.30,
and at 6.30 p.m. arrived at Srinagar into the
shelter of our doonga, in a very moist condition.
June 22nd. Our expedition yesterday over the
gaol was a very interesting one. M. much
wanted to see over the leper asylum at the same
time, but I demurred, not liking unpleasant sights
which I have no power to alleviate. The gaol is
on one side of the Dal lake, and is entirely under
native management. The superintendent, an
ancient Moslem with hair dyed a vivid red (to
copy that of his prophet) accompanied us. But
as he could not speak a word of English, and our
Urdu is terrible, an elegant babu was hailed
1 12 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
as interpreter. The yellow symbol of Siva on his
forehead, and the lobes of his ears, were in funny
contrast to his dandified appearance.
In the whole of Kashmir there are not three
gaols, and no lunatic asylum, so we were rather
horrified to come across some unfortunate mad-
men inside a sort of cage. No carpets are now
made here, only Government printing is done,
and the whole place, though clean, appeared to
want European supervision, especially in the
women's quarters. Our escort, largely added to
by loafers, seemed astonished at the interest we
took in their charges and at the questions we
asked. We met many boatloads of men returning
from evening prayer, it being Friday, on our way
to the lonely Nasim Bagh. This is a fine park
lined with a wonderful grove of chenars, the
trunks of some, hollow from age, being capable of
holding about a dozen people. Formerly terraces
led down to the river, but these are now in ruins.
Outside some tents, English owners of houseboats
were having their tea an ideal camping ground.
June 2%rd. We started at daybreak for our
trip to Islamabad, and thence up the Liddar
valley. We have tents, and Mahundoo is made
headman and organizer of the encampment, when
on march. He has begun badly. At 6:30 a.m.
we awoke to find that, though we had moved at
daybreak, according to our orders over-night, we
were stationary about half a mile below our
SIMLA, KASHMIR, *. 113
former anchorage, to allow M. and the sweeper to
execute their own business in the bazaar. Result :
a storm, fines inflicted all round, on the innocent
as well as on the guilty, and the rapid towing
of both boats up stream, the delinquents having to
run some five miles before they caught us up
at 8.30. Certainly in Kashmir short tempers are
the rule and not the exception, thanks to the
impertinent laissez alter of its aborigines. It was
pleasing to hear the luckily unintelligible bad
language, when our servants were once more
re-united. Without fines we unfortunate feminine
creatures would be well-nigh helpless.
Past fields of saffron, often walking for a little
way knee-deep in forget-me-nots, we reached the
old temple of Pandrathan, a quaint shrine in the
middle of a tank. Neve gives its date between 913
and 921 A.D., and says it is a part of the original
Srinagar Pandrathan, meaning in Sanskrit the
" Old Capital." Like the cellas in India, this one
is open on each side, and struck me from the
outside as being very Roman in form.
At 6 p.m. we reached our anchorage, the village
of Karkapoor, and insisted on occupying a quiet
free spot beneath a gigantic chenar which pro-
tected a Hindu shrine. Our boatman wished us
to be alongside many filthy native boats, so that
they might enjoy their hookas in friendly converse.
Our only disturbance was at eight (while eating
our evening meal on the bank), when the god
i
ii 4 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
had to be wakened up for his supper also ! The
clattering of an iron bar on a tin plate was his
dinner bell ! A handful of rice his food, with
some ghee to anoint him, he being a small stone !
June 2,^th. As our peaceful Sunday was
heralded by a row consequent on the disappear-
ance of a parasol, we felt much disturbed.
Finally the soft beauty of the scene around us
induced calmer feelings, and we recovered suffici-
ently to take " Tops " for many walks in and out
of the village, although it is both dirty and smelly.
June z$th. On ponies of sorts and the oldest
and slightest of side saddles we started at 6 a.m.
to ride to Payech Temple, built by a king in 483
to 490 A.D. After jogging over marshy ground
crossed by funny little wooden bridges, between
corn and a green herb whose name we cannot
make out, we finally at 9 o'clock reached our
destination, a pretty valley with a small tributary
of the Jhelum running through it. The temple
is like that at Pandrathan, eight feet square with
four porches. The sides and post are rudely sculp-
tured with figures of Brahma, Siva, Vishnu, and
Durga, also with bulls and heads of geese. The
stone was anointed out of the chatty placed by it,
by the servant of the lady who arrived after us
in a dhandy. The women who came to gaze on us
were very pretty, and kindly parted with their
rings for a few pice. The ride back to a different
anchorage lasted from 12.0 till 3 p.m., and the
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 115
heat was so intense, the road over arid hills and
plains so rugged, that only a sense of duty made
me visit the interesting ruins of Avantipore the
same evening. These are on the site of an ancient
capital of Avanti, and consist of two temples
dedicated to Mahadeva, 858 to 883 A.D. I photo-
graphed a ruined gateway with huge stones, some
finely carved but too worn to make out the subject
without more knowledge of Hindu architecture.
Such a storm of wind and rain came on that
after tying all up as tightly as we could, we retired
to bed very cold, and with grave misgivings as to
our future condition.
June 26th. Yesterday we spent some hours at
Bijbehara, a quaint little town with fine poplar
trees, and visited a small shrine to Siva with its
attendant bull, under a wooden canopy. A carved
empty building in the same compound was very
picturesque, but marred by a new tin-plated -
temple in the middle ! The natives have a mania
for tin, even old sardine boxes are nailed up
inside huts both here and in India, beside a highly
coloured portrait of the Queen that of the
Madonna and Parvati ! Everything incongruous
in palace or coolies' " go-downs."
June 2jth. From Bijbehara to Islamabad we
punted in two hours, and found ourselves among a
squadron of empty house-boats, all awaiting their
owners' return from the Liddar Valley. This
is the second largest town in Kashmir, and the
n6 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
bazaars are some two miles away from the river.
We trudged off to them on the dirtiest of roads,
bordered by poplars. The houses have very
picturesque balconies, carved as usual, and strange
small Niagaras spout over high walls into clear
streams below ! A massive gateway leads into a
sacred enclosure where holy carp disport them-
selves in two tanks. Woe to the person who dare
try to catch one for his dinner ! There is also a
Hindu school and priests' seminary and many
ghastly fakirs were squatting on the ground,
with eyes fixed in ecstasy on the inward vision of
the gods. We entered the boys' school where
there were about sixty scholars, who received us
with profound salaams. One of the four teachers
very fortunately spoke English, and explained to
us that the teaching is carried on in Urdu
(Kashmiri not being a written language), and only
in private lessons is English taught. I inquired
from him the meaning of the yellow paint on the
lobes of the men's ears, and he informed us that
until fifteen years of age boys wear earrings, and
after that this colour is painted on. I gathered
that this practice is confined to a certain caste of
Pundits. One of the fakirs made made me feel
very depressed. He was only a boy of about
eighteen, holding his leg up perpetually in
penance. No wonder his face was a very sad
one ! As usual, we had to pay backsheesh to the
priests, and sign our names in a visitors' book.
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 117
June 2&th. Off on our first camping expedition.
A headache made me unwilling to rise at 5 a.m.
in order to ride some miles to Atchibal, but as
the heat is great we did so, after a terrific row
during the packing of tents, furniture, stores, and
clothes, on the six ponies' backs. Fortunately the
ride is a pretty shady one, by running streams
and avenues of poplars, on towards the snows.
" Tops " was carried by all of us in turn, and as
my saddle, not only did not fit my pony, but
possessed only one girth, the little creature's antics
did not amuse me when I was his nurse ! A very
handsome couple of Kashmiris (the man reminded
me of Raphael's St. Peter) trudged along by us
for a few miles, and we conversed as best we could
together, while " Dobbie " ran behind. Atchibal
is an ideal garden laid out by Shah Jehangir, on
a smaller and prettier scale than Shalimar. Clear
water dashes over moss-grown walls some thirty
feet high into stone tanks surrounded by groves
of magnificent chenars, while small marble and
cedar kiosk are placed over the water. On a
great stone platform by the side of a tiny grass-
bordered stream, we ate our tiffin, stretched, and
dreamed until 3 p.m. Then after tea we started
off for our camping ground, the tents and servants
save one having gone on ahead. We had another
hot five miles ride over treeless plains, until we
reached Martand, the most famous ruins of a
great temple in the country. It shows remains
u8 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
of a choir, a nave, and a trefoil arch, and looks
very western; there are eighty-four columns
(it was dedicated to the Sun God) and according
to Neve the temple (excepting this last) was built
by King Lalitaditya and his queen some time about
500 A.D. The heat being too great to remain
longer in such an arid spot, we pushed on to
Bawan, a 'most idyllic place, with camping sites
marked out among great groves of trees by the
side of a rushing stream.
June 2gth. To mark our appreciation of such a
resting place we enjoyed our repose in bed until
7.30, as even I had found the sun's rays a trifle
too trying yesterday. Here there is also a sacred
tank, and a shrine to Hanarman, who squats as
jovial as ever under a wooden baldachino. Some
Tibetans of Hindu faith are staying in the pilgrims'
rest house, quaint little squat people clothed in
sheepskin and hair, with Mongolian features, the
women's long plaits much aided by plaited horse-
hair. The whole place is beautiful beyond words,
with blue and yellow birds flying in the branches
of the huge chenars. We made an expedition
this afternoon to some caves, but found them too
smelly, and their passage too narrow, for us to
progress very far.
June 3Oth. We left Bawan yesterday with
much regret, especially as our obstinate headman
had again reserved the best ponies for himself and
the baggage. As the so-called riding ponies at
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 119
Ri per day are generally the same as the baggage
ones at eight annas, we were advised at Srinagar
just to pick out the best of the latter for our own
use. This Mahundoo prefers to do himself, as we
found out to our cost to-day. M. very nearly
shared the fate of Absalom on hers, while mine
went at a mad gallop regardless of what was in
its way, if I even attempted to put up my parasol.
I found walking both quicker and less exciting,
and in this glorious bracing air (the snows are
again drawing near) by the side of pine forests,
and the rushing river, I soon covered seven miles,
and arrived at Eishmakam, where the tents were
up and supper awaiting us. A saint lies buried
on the top of the hill, but we did not pay him a
visit as it was too late.
July ist. We started at eight to-day for
Pailgam and with excellent horses. The road is
very beautiful through the valley, which is forty
miles long, and watered by the Liddar and its
tributaries, the Kolsho and Shisbah Nagh. The
wild flowers are delightful, and we gathered roses,
jasmine, and forget-me-nots.
When we arrived at our tiffin place and in com-
pany with a fellow traveller were much enjoying
it, suddenly each and all our servants appeared on
horseback ! To our hurried and not over gentle
inquiries as to this extraordinary sight, we were
informed that it was by our orders. Having
traced this mistake to my Bearer, I ordered all
120 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
the ponies to be sent back, and to be paid for out
of the pockets of the mistaken one. I do not
think such a mistake will occur again. It was
only a thirteen mile ride from Eishmakam to
Pailgam, the latter part of the way being over
narrow paths between huge rocks high over the
rushing Liddar, which is quite unnavigable. Our
camp at Pailgam commands a glorious view of
the pine forest, up to a glacier. The Sahiblog * (in
hundreds, judging from the scattered tents) seem
already squatted on the pine-covered hill-side, but
none are very near us. We have found a raised
platform of logs on which (after a careful hunt for
snakes) we have erected our bedroom tent, while
the cooking and servants' tents are some fifty
yards away from the dining one. At night it is
rather cold, but perfect weather, about 64 in the
shade I should imagine.
July 2nd. As I had kept my pony I went a long
ride to-day through Pailgam village, down by the
river, which I crossed on three occasions, over
bridges consisting of only birch logs with a few
sods in between. Then over the spur of the hills
I tried to find my way by beautiful hedges of wild
roses, and over a sort of heather, till finally by the
help of a small boy, I found a mule track by
which I reached the valley again. This is a
perfect place in which to rest, and with books,
expeditions, and kind friends, the days pass
only too quickly.
*Gentry
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &>c. 121
July 5//J. We made an expedition to Aru to-
day, Lady F. in her dhandy, and we on ponies,
and a most delightful ride we had, in spite of the
road being exceedingly steep and awkward in
parts. Sometimes we only had just room between
clefts in the rock to move on, and sometimes we
could not see the bottom of our descent ! Aru is
a very fertile valley divided by the river, with
beautiful woods on a high spur, in which we
rested and had tiffin. The Sikh jhampannies were
very careful to take their meal in the middle of a
side stream on some large boulders. They are
such handsome, proud-looking men.
Our excitements in Pailgam lately have been
the killing of two snakes near our tents, and a
mad dog. The latter I had the unpleasant fate
to meet, and was obliged to leap a ditch to avoid
him. However, poor fellow, he did not seem
desirous to fly at us, but made for the rushes by
the river, where he was dispatched in an hour's
time by a well-directed shot. Probably being a
pi * dog, he had been injured and was only
creeping away to hide himself, when the scare
was raised. The nights are cold enough now for
a bonfire to be lighted at 7.30, and as we sit at
ours it is a pretty sight to see other tents
standing out against the bright background of
their fires. The only drawback to our delight-
ful picnics in the woods are the red ants, and
* Pariah
122 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
the little beasts bite to a degree which drives
us to distraction !
July nth. We broke up camp to-day, saying
good-bye to one of the loveliest spots on the
earth, and then rode twenty-six miles to join our
boats at Bijbehara. Part of the way was by the
side of the river, but after passing Sillar the
scenery grow more arid until we reached the
Jhelum. We started at 8 a.m. and got on board
at 6 p.m. after taking a long rest in the middle of
the day in order to see our baggage pass before
us. We dropped down the river until 8.30 when
we anchored under our usual shelter, the chenar,
for the night.
July i^th. We are in camp in the Munshi
Bagh, having denounced Mahundoo as the only
" troubler " of Israel's peace during our delight-
ful tour in the Liddar Valley. We rode over to
a most interesting mela, or Mahommedan feast, on
the Dal Lake, which was crowded by boats filled
with pretty women in all their festival finery.
However, on our arrival at the mosque, we only
saw the very poorest women left among dense
masses of white clothed men, all either prostrate
in prayer or awaiting their turn for a free place in
which to kneel with their faces towards Mecca.
Finally several white robed priests came out and
stood under a canopy, the chief Mouloie hold-
ing out a casket supposed to contain two of
Mahomet's hairs ! Thereupon all the mass of
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 123
spectators bowed in homage. We went among
the various stalls and bought some memen-
toes of the mela, while a policeman, a boatman,
and A. kept the crowd in due bounds by sticks.
A better behaved one two solitary Englishwomen
were never in before, I am quite certain, the
tip-refusing " bobby " having particularly won
our admiration.
July ijth. All stores are on our boats, tents,
luggage, and ourselves also, and here we are at
Ganderbal, on our first step towards Ladakh, i.e.,
Little Tibet. Our voyage through the Mar Canal
was exceeding exciting, as it is as narrow, dirty,
and smelly as some of the smaller ones in Venice.
As we met a house-boat, besides many timber
ones, we had plenty of time to admire picturesque
bridges, overhanging houses, and quaint court-
yards, and to wish that we had smelling salts
with us ! At last we emerged into the fresh air
of the Dal Lake and reached Ganderbal at
3 p.m., having started at 8.30. This place is at
the head of the Sind Yalley, so we say good-bye
to our peaceful Jhelum for six weeks. There is a
charming old Mosque under a huge decaying
chenar, beneath whose shade a venerable old
scribe was sitting, busily engaged in transcribing
the Koran in exquisitely neat characters. The
original MS. which I examined was a particu-
larly interesting one, and thereupon the reverend
pastor asked for backsheesh !
i2 4 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
July iSth. Our party, now augmented by one
and her servants, marched for six miles by the
Sind, through very wild scenery, from which I
missed the sight of the snows. Pretty farmhouses
and huts were dotted about, but none were near
when some terrific rain came down, so we arrived
at Kangan, another six miles off, well soaked
through. Before we could even sit down or have
our tents up, all chairs, beds, &c., had to be well
dried round a huge bonfire. Grafaro, our new
headman, evidently understands his business,
and is obliging and good tempered besides, so all
work well together.
July igth. M. and I started very early to try
and outride another rainstorm if possible. The
scenery was very wild, and the bridges over the
mountain torrents were loose boards ! At Haroo,
eighteen miles, we waited for the others and the
rain, which did not disappoint us, so for five
miles more we rode on, almost blinded by the
dust, to Gund, where fortunately the tents had
been got up before the storm broke. This is a
lovely spot close to the river, surrounded by
mountains, but very damp under the present
circumstances.
July 2ist. The party rested all yesterday on
my account, but to-day in sunshine and with
less aching limbs I have much enjoyed our fifteen
miles ride through a most Norwegian-looking
valley. The Sind is both wider and more rocky
SIMLA, KASHMIR, 6rv. 125
than the Liddar, while the mountains are higher
and the foliage is scarcer. Up to Gagangair the
going was very hard as the small tracks above the
river were both muddy and full of little stones.
The camping place here is excellent, about eight
miles from Gand. After tiffin we went on seven
and a half miles more, but I felt too sorry for my
pony's endeavours to keep his feet to ride all the
time. Now the snows came in sight, then a
glacier, until we emerged on a plateau, or marg,
and saw the huts of Sonamarg some miles away.
This used to be a flourishing place, a sort of
sanatorium, but now there are only some four
huts and post and telegraph offices. Close to
these, and by the side of the river, we camped
finally, though the pine woods looked very
tempting, but they are waterless It is very hot,
and, except for two tents belonging to some
officers from Pindi, we are the sole occupants of
Sonamarg, at any rate in sight.
The marg, being covered with a cornflower
blue forget-me-not, looks just like a blue veil of
mist as one looks down on it from the pine woods.
It is so hot in our encampment that we have
retired among these last for tea until our tents
become less like stokeholes.
July 22nd. Our washing day ! As we were un-
able to cajole a dhobie down from Srinagar, we find
it a very difficult matter to prevent the clothes from
being swept away down the Sind, also they soon
iz6 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
get covered with fine grains of sand as one beats
them on the rock ! Near the glacier we found an
ideal picnic spot, carpeted with orchids, forget-
me-nots, and Canterbury bells, or rather their
Kashmiri relations. We had a dinner party to-
night, our guests being our neighbours, who sent
over their own knives, forks, and glasses, as is
customary in all festivities in the wilds. The tele-
graph babu asked me to-day to correct a number of
"good sayings" he had composed in English. One
ran : " God is good and man is a miserable
creature." Others refer to the necessary earthly
life if heaven is to be enjoyed. Our interview
ended in " The Beautitudes " being read to him, a
translation being given on the spot to some
dozen others as well. Arguments ensued upon
the "origin of evil," and the Hindu Adams were
disconcerting, being brain disturbing enough,
even when a fluent common language is possessed
by the rival parties.
July 2^th. Our trio is now reduced again to a
duet, and we are fairly launched on our voyage
to Leh ! Having discovered that too many
ponies were being used, thus doubling our outlay,
we insisted on only having six for baggage and
three for ourselves and servants. A coolie is also
engaged as tiffin wallah * and bheestie t while the
sweeper, as before, carries " Tops " in a flannel bag
across his shoulders ! We had to show a letter
* Bearer of luncheon basket. t Water-carrier.
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 127
from the Governor of Kashmir desiring that all
civility should be shown its bearer, before we could
get the owner of the horses to allow our meagre
belongings to be laid on the backs of the six we
had chosen! At last we two started off ahead
on excellent animals, and after fording the Sind
several times crossing it on narrow planks
wading through mud on its banks, and climbing
spurs in the overhanging cliffs, we finally reached a
charming wood some nine miles off, where we
rested and lunched, with a dessert of the sweetest
of wild strawberries, which formed our carpet !
After allowing our camp to pass us, we followed
it for a couple of miles to Baltal, an arid plain,
without a tree, at the foot of the Zogi La Pass
into Ladakh. So scorching was the heat, that
we ordered our camps to cross the pass as we
felt we dared not stay all day (it was only n a.m.)
in such a spot ! At this our coolies " struck "
but after threatening them with the anger of both
the Residents at Srinagar and Leh, we got them
to move, while Grafaro led us up the Zogi La,
which is 11,000 feet. It took us about three hours
to climb, and is difficult for any but our surefooted
Kashmiri ponies to manage ! For about 3,000 feet
we had to pick our way over large stones in
the river, and up between clefts in the rocks, where
Ladakhis with well laden ponies blocked our way !
As we ascended the views behind us grew more
and more beautiful, the glaciers and snow-fields on
128 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
the opposite side of the Sind nearer and nearer,
but in front of us was only a narrow gorge.
Poor " Dobbie," began to get blown, so I carried
her for some time till at length I eased the pony of
both our weights ! A field of frozen snow had to
be walked over after we had reached the top of
the Pass, and then after one more ride through
the river, we sat down to await our camp in a
meadow between three streams, surrounded by
mountains several thousand feet high, and covered
.. with edelweiss. After gathering wild roses,
scented double anemones, and pimpernels all the
morning, it was so strange to find ourselves so
much higher than many Swiss mountains in the
early afternoon, and able to make nosegays of edel-
weiss ! It is a smaller flower than its European
* relations. I had promised our retainers a sheep
if they would hurry over the pass, so one was
brought from the mountains, examined, and paid
for (Rs). After this bargain we were visited by
divers women, all Ladakhis, in woollen garments,
with long plaits, and many brass ornaments, who
wept bitterly, in a submissive attitude, at our
feet. At last we gathered that the sheep had
left its baby in their village. So I insisted that
- the mother and child should be reunited, and a
solitary bachelor be handed over to our tender
mercies. This exchange, much to Grafaro's
disappointment and the subsequent toughness of
our dinner, was soon accomplished, and the now
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 129
smiling women and joyfully bleating sheep
disappeared.
July 2$th. Evidently such high altitudes do
not suit me, as I could scarcely breathe all night !
Luckily, some brandy and ginger (a concoction
suitable for a fire-eater !) relieved me somewhat,
but I did not feel very fit for our 12 miles ride
on to Matayan (Kashmiri name), especially as,
owing to rain and wind, it proved a very hard
one. All the way we rode over and under bleak
rocks, forded four branches of the river (over our
girths), and crossed four fields of iced snow!
The ledges over the brow of the cliffs were also of
the narrowest dimensions, and very slippery from
the now fast melting snow. At last, at 11.30, we
reached the so-called " Rest House " at Matayan
a cella without windows and only a mud floor,
but, mercifully, a fireplace ! So using our saddles
for chairs we were soon able to dry our soaking
habits and boots, until the blinding smoke drove
us out again ! However, the rain had ceased,
and our tiffin basket arrived ; but the tents were
still another two hours behind. Except for the
beauty of the river, Matayan is not an interesting
spot merely a small valley, with some six mud
huts built underneath a platform of stones and
logs, clustering round the bungalow.
July 26th. A cold, fine morning, and our ride
of 12 miles a much easier one than yesterday's,
though in order to cross a long, broken bridge,
K
i 3 o A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
some coolies had to lay down loose logs for our
horses, as the river (we imagine it is the Dras)
is a very swift and deep one fortunately, we
have both steady heads. Most of the bridges
are composed of one tree placed at each
end on piles of stones, with a plaiting of birch
twigs over it about a quarter of a yard wide, and
turf sods laid on these. As my saddle kept twist-
ing round I walked over some of them, and had
time to admire the glowing colours of the rocks
standing against the dark waters. No trees
could we find for some miles, till at length we
reached a wee plantation of birches and willows,
surrounded by a wall as protection against
animals. The village of Pandras is pretty in the
distance, also the Dras Valley, shut in by
mountains covered with bright green grass, whose
slopes were evidently used as earthworks during
the Sikh Wars. An old fort, belonging to the
same nation, guards the entrance, and is now used
as a jail. The whole series of villages in this
Dras Valley are very prosperous, as the land is
well irrigated, and grows corn. Baltis and Dards
(the former Mussulmans), inhabit the country, and
are very polite to us. We watched a sort of game
of "rounders " to-night, played by the families of
the post and telegraph babus. Another token of
civilization was a case containing weather cones !
Also a thermometer and barometer were hung up
on the wall of the office. We camp in a recessed
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 131
enclosure, with a fee to the man who looks after
it. There is a good stone Rest House, but we
always prefer the open air to sleep in. Besides
the usual flowers we have plucked before there is
a curious shell-like clover. Neither of us, alas !
possesses botanical knowledge much wanted out
here ! A thana or serai is close by, filled with
some interesting wild Mongols on their way to
Srinagar.
July 2?th. As our men combine together to
send us off early, so that they may enjoy their
hookah instead of at once hurrying on, we
gave strict orders to-day that at Tashgam, 16
miles off, they must be by 3 p.m. ! With stupid
ponies (not the willing beasts we had yesterday)
we found the ride a long one, and, as the day pro-
gressed, very hot. The scenery continued very
grand, especially as the valley narrowed, but no
trees, save an occasional willow, could we see.
At last, at 9.30, we dragged our steeds up a hill
beside a stream sheltered by these trees,
waited for our tiffin wallah, whom, as usual,
we had passed en route. Finally the stream was
turned off (it was only an irrigating channel), but
the peasants were more kind, and tethered our
ponies where they could get shade without
being able to devour the corn.
On starting again I found my saddle so unsafe
that the remainder of the way, nine miles, I
mostly walked, as the road was fairly level, and
1 32 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
the sun not so strong. We met a fellow-country-
man, rushing in forced marches from beyond
Leh, in order to " see the fun in China ! " As he
speaks Russian he may be useful afterwards in
Korea ! Our invaluable Grafaro had all in readi-
ness for us at Tashgam, among a grove of willows,
but no wild flowers can we see. We met many
Tibetans to-day, with zhos, the hybrids of yaks
and cows curious-looking creatures, with shaggy
coats and tails, and very bovine heads and horns.
The crows here have white breasts and wings, a
great improvement on the European and Indian
tribes.
July 2$th. To-day's ride of 23 miles was a
very wild and precipitous one. We have strong
suspicions that our syces have drugged the
animals, in order that we might ride slower and
not make them walk so fast. The Dras river is
here changed into the Suru, whose blue waters
merge into the grey ones of the former. At
Chanegund (16 miles) we rested in a lovely
apricot orchard, where the fruit is as small as
our plums, with very woolly skins. As we ap-
proached Kargil, down a descent of 8,500 feet
from Dras we saw bright green fields, with corn
growing, and willow and poplar trees, all lying
beneath us around this capital of Purik. The
inhabitants (according to Neve) are Mahommedan
Ladakhis, who are subject to the Governor of
Baltistan. The town is built on the sides of a
SIMAL, KASHMIR, >c. 133
hill, with booths as shops, covered with twigs
and stones. Our camp is above the houses, on
a high plateau full of poplar trees, not near the
river. As usual, we had to spy on our bheestie,
who prefers to fill the water jars at the nearest
point, regardless of the habitations of man being
above his chosen spot. A. is very good, however,
in seeing that all our drinking water is well
boiled, and I find my aerated water bottle in-
valuable, with its " sparklets." A large mail
was awaiting us, also a " wire " to warn us not to
proceed further, on account of the unrest of the
Lamas under pressure of China ! As we are
very dubious about this, I have sent a telegram
to the Resident at Srinagar, asking if he has any
information regarding this said rising. So far,
of course, we have seen nothing of the Lamas,
but shall begin our acquaintance with them in a
day or two.
July 2C)th. To-day is Sunday, and our rest-
day. Unfortunately, this camp is a very hot one,
so every hour we have to move our seats, owing
to the intruding attentions of his majesty the
Sun-god. After 4 p.m. we went to see the town
and its inhabitants. The Dogra telegraph babu
is most kind, and has sent us fresh vegetables, an
edible we have not tasted since we left Srinagar !
Also apricots and nuts are our dessert. The
women are most picturesquely dressed, in long
woollen garments (dark red or purple), with brass
134 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
basques at their sides, from which hang their
spoon, knife, mirror, and keys. Their long plaits
fall quite to their heels (aided, as usual, by horse-
hair or twine), ending in blue bead and straw
ornaments. On the shoulder they generally have
a bronze or brass amulet sewn, often studded
with turquoises, and their flat caps are adorned
with silver plaques. Their necklaces are of coral
and silver, and they wear silver beads in their ears.
Their faces are, of course, Mongolian, with dark
skins, often covered with pig's blood to keep off
blisters from the sun ! The men wear much the
same dress, with peaked caps of sheepskin and
cloth, and are short and broad. Our Dogra
friend is a man some six feet high, with a hand-
some, proud face, who speaks excellent English.
He invited us to see his women-folk, who are in
purdah. We sketched and photographed the
mother, \\dfe, sister, and child in their compound.
Being Hindus, their gala dress is very bright, and
their nose rings, anklets, earrings, necklaces, and
forehead amulets of really beautiful workmanship.
Such handsome women, too, and with pretty
manners. The postmaster, a man from the
North-West Provinces, has persuaded me to write
for him to the Postmaster-General, as he wants a
" remove," but, judging from the bad state of
his office and his own personal untidiness, I fear
he will not be sent into more civilized quarters.
To complete the charm of this quaint town, an
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c 135
old Sikh fort lies on the other side of the crazy
bridge, that is the high road to Leh. I walked
a long way, guarded by Grafaro, and was intro-
duced to the bright green herb all around us : it
is sarg, and a great article of export from this
fertile valley. The mountains all round are of
the most beautiful violet and red tints ; I suppose
slate and iron abound to account for this. A
piece of quartz in our camp fire showed traces
of gold, and some day, when opened out (a rail-
way from Pindi to Srinagar is already being talked
of), Ladakh will, I am sure, be found to be full of
valuable minerals as it is, it is celebrated for
growing barley at an elevation of 14,000 feet
above the sea. These people of Purik are among
the chief traders in wool, and I am quite fas-
cinated by their small goats and sheep not as
large as those in Kashmir. They look capable of
becoming household pets, not being, in most
cases, bigger than Pomeranian dogs. Alas ! our
own menagerie is as much as we can manage,
added to, as it is daily, by the chickens we buy to
eat by the way. When eaten at once after
killing they are very tender not so our mutton.
July 3is. Having received a reassuring "wire"
from the Resident, we started off at 5.30 on a
perfectly sunless morning. A great contrast to
the intense heat of the last two days. My syce is a
picturesque bundle of parti-coloured rags, more
like the bird-catcher in "the Magic Flute" than
i 3 6 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
any other raggamuffin I have ever seen. He
wears a green toque, generally coquettishly
resting over one merry eye. He is a Dard a
merry, dare-devil race they seem to be. While
cantering a long way a-head my bit came entirely
out it was only tied to the plaited horsehair head
strap by a piece of string. Some Ladakhis passing
by at once caught my riderless hack, and producing
many yards of similar plaiting out of their pockets,
fastened the door knocker (called a " bit ")
securely in. Our ride to Maulba Chamba, 23
miles, was through very bleak country, up and
down precipices, over the river, across the same
rickety bridges, and through nullahs. At
Lauchni, 14^ miles, we had tiffin and a sleep, and
4 miles beyond our ever welcome tea.
I find the green country tea I bought in
Srinagar for our coolies a capital investment it
saves our own provision of the black which so
mysteriously disappeared in the Liddar Valley.
We had a chat with a sahib who, followed by
several ponies over whose backs peered grim
sheeps' heads with twisted horns, was on his
return from a "shoot" near Leh.
At Maulba Chamba, after refusing to inhabit
a prison called a Dak Bungalow, we chose a
delightful camping spot close to the polo ground.
Here the best players of the community played
many chuckers for our benefit on small
ponies. The game was a very fast one, but, of
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 137
course, the front peak to the saddle and size ot
the horses render it here a much safer game
than in India or at home. A feast terminated
the evening, at which we also tasted the
national beverage, called chung, a sort of
summer sherbet. The women danced at our
request, much like the Nautch girls in India.
They wear flat caps, like those in Kargil, but with
cloth wings, edged with sheepskin, standing out
over the ears. They also wear a choga or
mantle of sheepskin, over their long, loose,
woollen dress, and mix turquoises and coral with
their long plaits of hair. The men, too, have a
large silver circle in their ears, generally only in
the right one, ornamented with the same jewels,
and round their long, red, green, or brown coats,
like dressing-gowns, they twist many yards of
Kashmir cloth, sticking in it great long knives
some with finely chased silver handles. They all
treat us very politely, but are curious as to the
whereabouts of our Sahibs two ladies alone
evidently being a novel sight. As in all pure
Ladakhi villages, polygamy is practised, but this
custom we hear does not lead to any quarrels
among the various husbands. In fact, all
authorities agree that these "little Tibetans"
are a peaceful, cheerful race, and we certainly find
them and the Baltis and Dards much more
honest and obliging than those " ne'er-do-weel "
Kashmiris.
i 3 8 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
August ist. At nine we began our rather dreaded
ascent to the great Lamaserai or Buddhist
monastery. Throughout this country these are
placed on high eminences, and as we toiled up
hundreds of feet of shale and sharp rocks, we saw
prayer flags fluttering from every part of the huge
building and its ramparts. Heaps of stones
carved with prayers, as " works of merit," excited
our cupidity, but we intend to wait to steal one
till no Red Lamas are looking on ! Our host
here was an aged one, who, with a novice, seemed
to be the only occupants of the tumbledown old
place. Neither looked saintly. The old one, in
his red gown and peaked cap of the same colour,
appeared an evil wizard. In the temple there were
guttering candles, an abundance of flags, and
many gongs, but I could not see one statue of
Buddha, and rubbed my eyes on beholding my
old friends (or their doubles !), Vishnu and
Lakshmi, with many attendant demons. In fact,
Hinduism seemed rampant, though probably
many unknown faces represented the founders of
Lamaism, a most corrupt form of what Waddell
calls " that ideal Agnosticism," i.e., Buddhism.
No Gautama, even in the frescoes, could we see
only horses, elephants, minor deities, and many
serpents. On our return a runner presented us
with a bag containing bread, butter, and vege-
tables, supposed to be sent by the barra Sahib
or Resident at Leh. It was very welcome as our
SRIXACAR. KASHMIR.
K'l.l) l.AMAS. I.KH. I.ADAKII
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 139
flour was finished, and we were living on the oat-
cake, or Pampoor robi, brought from Pampoor,
and native Chiprattis. A few sardines and one
pot of preserve were left, alsp a tin of butter.
We started off for Karki at 2.30 alone, and
lost our way, as we forgot to be guided by the
telegraph posts ! Up a huge rock we climbed
and found ourselves in a large, deserted village
(all the Ladakhis are tilling the fields or scaring
off birds) perched hundreds of feet above the
torrent. At last we met a disengaged man who
kindly managed to understand our need, and led
our horses up some more hills covered by loose
shell, till we saw our posts, and our servants, like
ants, exceedingly far below us. The descent we
made on foot altogether having wasted one
precious hour. The scenery was not even grand,
only narrow gorges between the muddy rocks,
but at 7.30 we reached a beautiful valley sur-
rounded by bright violet and red rocks. The
Pass we rode over is 13,000 feet, and Kharbu is
one of a series of villages, the scene of many
invasions from enemies in Kashmir and Skardo.
This last place is claimed by some as being the
birthplace of polo, but in India I heard this
strenuously denied. We found we had to ride 17
miles instead of 15, and the last two seemed to
lengthen out to five, so tired were we. Our
Khansama* also lost his way, so at 9 p.m. we
* Cook.
i 4 o A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
retired to bed after only a cup of tea and a scrap
of tinned tongue.
The women frighten the birds off the corn here
by means of stones thrown from catapults. The
vegetation is luxuriant.
August 2nd. As we understood it was only
fifteen miles to Lamayuru, we started in the
afternoon, as our camping-place was so com-
fortable and picturesque, but found the miles
nearer twenty. A caravan of Purik merchants
passed us, very quaintly dressed, with well-loaded
ponies. We had to cross the Fottu La Pass
(13,400 feet), a long, weary climb, but on a good
path, with beautiful views over nullahs and rivers.
As evening came on, and we were quite alone, we
began to wonder where our destination was, but
fortunately caught up two men on ponies, with a
foal cantering behind, and they acted as guides.
At last, in pitch darkness, we found ourselves
passing under a high gateway, and answering
voices greeted our inquiring cries from an apricot
orchard, lighted up by a good bonfire, where our
suites were ready to receive us.
August $rd. Again, a bad night for poor me,
although Lamayuru is 2,000 feet lower than
the Pass ! Phenacitine this time relieved my
breathing, but I felt a wreck on mounting my
steed, and decided we must stop at Kalsi (twelve
miles), instead of camping at Nurla, eight miles
further on. My pony, having her foal with
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 141
her, wished to go slowly, so I could only
just sit with loose rein. We rode through curious
narrow ravines, the path sometimes very high
above the river, and others by its bed, and all the
time the rocks were of the same gorgeous colour-
ing as before. At last we entered the Indus
valley, and crossed my old friend, over a bridge
ending in a quaint fort, again of Sikh erection.
Kalsi has one of the best camping grounds in
Ladakh, in an orchard filled with apricots and
many other shady trees. We went off and called
on the missionaries, and persuaded them and
their baby to come and dine. Herr Franke is
a great authority on Tibet generally, having
laboured here for some years, and investigated
both Buddhism and Lamaism very thoroughly.
He explained to us the great difference between -
the two. Now the last is a mixture of Fetishism -
and Hinduism, with a sort of Buddhist ritual
tacked on. Many of their topes* contain only
prayers twisted on staves frequently nothing at
all. Herr Franke and his brethren in Leh are the
only missionaries in Ladakh, and are now occu-
pying their spare time in translating the folk-lore
of the country. According to Cunningham, the
first mention of Ladakh is by two Chinese
travellers (399-400), who call it " The land of the
snow mountains." Pliny and Marco Polo also
mention it. Formerly the great treasure of the
* Stone shrines.
142 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
country was a tooth of Gautama, but, like its
fellow in Ceylon, it was taken away 200 years
ago, and thrown into the Indus by Ali Shsr of
Baltis. Until 1834, I hear, Ladakh paid tribute
to the Dalai Lama, at Lhassa, but was then seized
by the Sikhs, and its people call themselves
Botpa, but Indians style them Bhotiyas and their
country Bhutan. The real meaning of Tibet is
contained in a Turki word, meaning shawl and
wool certainly a name well adapted to the
country.
I find, to my surprise, that the greatest height
is 28,000 feet, while the greatest depression in
these western Himalayas is the Zogi La Pass,
of 11,700 feet. Cunningham accounts for the
physical and moral differences in these natives
from the rest of the Mongolian tribes as being
due to the extreme cold of the country. The
same authority divides the Tibetan theology into
seven divisions : I. Discipline ; II. Transcen-
dentalwisdom; III. Baudha; IV. Community;
V. Aphorism; VI. Nirvana; VII. Mysticism.
The principal dictator of religion, who helped to
crystallize Lamaism, was Tsing Rhapa, who,
born in 1355, died in 1419. But its founder
(according to Waddell) was the Guru Padma.
He was invited by the Tibetan King in 747 A.D.,
and on his arrival from India, by magic and tact,
changed the demonology of the country into
Buddhism, after performing more physical and
SIMLA, KASHMIR, *. 143
moral feats against the evil spirits than even St.
George or Hercules. He, " the lotus-born
one," built the first monastery in 749 A.D., and
founded the Lamas, whose title signifies, " the
superior ones." In short, this mysterious Lamaism
seems to be a mixture of Mysticism, Hinduism,
and Demonology, with a thin layer of Budd-
hism. Padma's disciples, called the patri-
archs, succeeded each other as chiefs, until in the
seventeenth century, the Chinese made the Dalai
Lama at Lhassa king of his fellows and of the
country. Herr Franke can tell me nothing about
the " Mahatmas." The flags we see everywhere
on Lamaserai, tree top and house, have the six
sacred syllables inscribed on them: "Omma-ni
pad-me hum" (Ah, the jewel is in the lotus), re-
ferring to the centre of Kosmos. As this " good
saying " then flutters in the wind, it distills bless-
ings on the owners of the flags and on all who
pass beneath.
Augitst $th. Yesterday we rode 22^ miles to
Saspul, lunching at Nurla, where a merry crowd
of women surrounded us. Their headdresses, a
piece of long leather covered with turquoises and
coming on the forehead in a peak, were equally
astonishing and becoming. The Indus is here
bordered by masses of rocks containing onyx stones
among its " plum pudding " mixture. The
topes are beginning to be very abundant, of stone,
or brick, covered with whitewash, and between
i 4 4 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
them are walls of loose stones of " merit/' all,
we suppose, carved with the one sacred sentence.
To-day we have rested at Saspul, in a pretty
apricot orchard, and have been enlivened by a
Nautch. Two boys dressed as girls were the
performers (very poor ones), while torn toms, lyres,
and a sort of zither formed the band. A Lama
who came to listen seemed a particularly awe-
inspiring personage his book being bowed to by
the devout.
August 6th. Bazgu, a few miles from Saspul, is
a very curious and interesting place with many
large, ruined houses on the hills. A large tope
stands by the river, whose banks are very pic-
turesque, curving round the village. The only
drawback to our repose here was the cotton refuse
that covered everything ! It descended from the
trees like snow. At Nimu we camped (12 miles
in all) among silver birches and this tiresome
cotton wool.
August 7th. A very rainy and windy ride into
Leh (i2j miles) so we had to shelter in a " rest
house " early in the day and then, over sandy
plains, passing Spitak (an ancient Lamaserai),
we saw a green oasis before us and trees. This
turned out to be our Mecca, a very disappointing
one in the distance, as, being dwarfed by the
mountains, it looks sunk in a hollow. Really the
town is 11,000 feet above sea level. Above is a
large crag on which are a palace in ruins and a
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 145
monastery. We rode in through a broad bazaar,
not at all an uncommon one, while its inhabitants
crowded out to see two other additions to its
scanty European population. We find that
that consists in all of the inhabitants at the
Residency, five missionaries, and a lady whose
husband is out on a shooting expedition in the
neighbourhood. We are camped in the Dak
Bungalow compound and have established our
dining table on its green lawn. Even in Leh we
can get no bread nor fresh butter, but flour and
all tinned provisions beside meat are easily
obtained.
August jth. After an excellent dinner with our
tried Moravian friends, we felt equal this morning
to investigating the bazaars and Lamas. We
were much delighted yesterday with our visit to
the cheerful mission compound near which is the
dispensary, where already we had sent our tiffin
wallah for a bad foot. I believe the work is so
well carried out that the Kashmir government
gives a certain sum a year to the endowment fund,
and there is no other in the town. The two
Lamaserais are on the cliff above the town and are
very decayed, Gautama Buddha, however, was
more en evidence than at Lamayuru, and these
priests both brighter and cleaner. The gongs
are very fine, also the horns, magnificent pieces of
carving and bronze. The flags are of silk and
satin, and we were told this Lamaserai is well
146 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
endowed. The two custodians allowed me to
photograph them with great eagerness. The old
palace is a ruin, but possesses a very beautiful
doorway, and the view from its roof over the
quaint town of several thousand inhabitants and
away up the overhanging mountains is particularly
fine. The Residency, a long, low building, stand-
ing in a well-wooded compound, is painted in both
hall and dining room with scenes from Ladakhi
fairy tales or from national life. The native artist
is evidently a very clever one. We feel very
greedy while eating all the good things our
various kind hosts put before us. To appreciate
a good dinner one must have arrived at one's last
pinch as we had done.
August loth. The hunt after curios and
turquoises engrossed all our morning, and after
tiffin we went with the Commissioner to see the
Yarkund mules inspected for transport service.
These wild creatures, when found to be quite
unmanageable, were confided to a most ferocious-
looking Tibetan from Lhassa, who, after mes-
merising them, seized and held on to their ears,
while their teeth were being examined. This
hero, a sort of Prospero, has a perfectly monstrous
head covered with a blue and brown three-cornered
hat, and huge gold earrings, studded with
turquoises, which he stoutly refused to sell to me.
We went on to visit the Yarkund Serai where
merchants and their baggage are put up, The
SIMLA, KASHMIR, 6*c. 147
cleanliness and keeping up of this place is intrusted
to the Commissioner's native subordinate. I was
weighed in a machine generally used for weighing
wool, a most primitive apparatus, to whose chains
I had to cling tightly.
August nth. The weather is still very fine,
and rather warmer than when the frost came,
though at night when walking home from our
dinner parties we have to wrap up very much.
Miss Kent took us to visit two Tibetan families of
different social positions. One woman, who had
turned Mahommedan to please her husband,
showed us with great pride her large collection
of copper trays and pans, and talked much of the
difficulty she had in managing her spouse. He
sold me a very singular turquoise as well as a
tray, and would, I think, have parted with his
excellent wife, with equal pleasure. On our next
visit to the higher rank we were refreshed with the
most terrible concoction it has ever been my
misfortune to drink, and drink one whole cup I
was forced to do. The ground work was green
Yarkund tea, which had been boiled for some
days with soda, then pickled with salt, and put
away till wanted, and then given to us mixed
with the native butter. I know I shall feel that
tea for many days. The house in which we
accomplished this feat of politeness was a fine one
with a real wooden bed, gaudy prints of the
German Empeior, the Queen, and Victor Emanuel,
148 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
and some china that evidently, like the pictures,
was " made in Germany."
In contrast to these works of art were some
delicate Chinese cups, in quaint silver stands, and
some very old papier mache work. After visiting
next a girls' school, where knitting is taught,
while the gospel narrative is told the scholars in
simple words, we visited a Baete Serai. This
is divided into small chambers, on the mud floor
of which we sat, while our companion listened to
the women's woes, until the usual tiny invaders
of our peace of mind and body, and also the
smoke, drove us out into the open air. Certainly
Ladakh is an agitating country, whether in camp
or cottage !
We laid in a stock of groceries, &c., for our
return journey, and find everything very little
dearer than in the village, considering the three to
four miles' journey on pack ponies. We were
invited to-day to go with the Barra Mem Sahib* to
a tea party. Our hostess, a lady from Yarkund,
whose husband is a high official here, received us
most warmly at the door of her reception room.
She was such a handsome woman, and dressed in a
full green brocade robe, with a gold over-jacket
(bolero shape), and aflat, three-cornered hat. Her
jewels and bridal brocades were very fine, also a
magnificent cloak lined with furs. Her three
children, in bright green and turquoise blue,
* Chief lady.
SIMLA, KASHMIR, S>c. 149
had inherited her soft, dark eyes and coal-black
hair, that she wore in two long plaits as usual.
Both tea and the cakes made by the fair hands of
our hostess were excellent, and she also provided
us with chairs, as our other entertainers had not
done. All the houses in Leh are many-storied,
while the shops are arranged as those in Kashmir
and India. Many Bengal bunnias* have come up
for the summer months, and brought up their
own prices with them !
After our tea party, we witnessed a game of
polo played up and down the main bazaar.
Messrs. Phelps and Church have arrived from
Central Asia, after a thirteen months' shooting
expedition, but have not suffered from any
Chinese excitement. I hear the Russian consul
at Yarkund has gone to the trouble and expense
(not his own, I fear) of printing a paper in Chinese,
in order to give full accounts of British reverses
in South Africa. That newspaper will soon cease
to be, let us hope.
August i2th. This morning we attended the
Tibetan service held by these good missionaries.
About thirty men and women were present and
many " inquirers," and although we understood
nothing, the devout worshippers preached a
silent sermon to us. As in India, so here, the
good done by missionaries cannot be quoted in
statistics ; it is the leavening process and the all-
* Merchants.
150 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
embracing Christian Charity (in its fullest mean-
ing), that will never be valued at its true worth
this side of the great universe, that is of the
greatest value. In the afternoon, out of consider-
ation for us seven English people, our Moravian
friends held a bright service at which the chief
features were their Litany, and an excellent ser-
mon from Dr. Shaw.
August i^th. With real sorrow we said good-
bye to our hospitable friends, both English and
German, and rode back to Srinagar which we
reached on August 2gth, having ridden in forced
marches in order that we should catch the steamer
in Bombay. Our only adventures have been some
landslips and also much rain to delay us, besides
our usual rests on Sundays. We tried to vary our
camps as much as possible, but at Kargil pitched in
our old one, near our kind friend the Dogra babu,
who again presented us with delicious fruit. He was
much delighted with the Bible I brought him from
Leh. After Kargil, we had one terrible experience
of losing our way in the pitch dark. Fortunately,
I had kept A. back with us, our camp having gone
on hours before, and had it not been for meeting
a coolie, who led our horse (the other being tied
to him) we should never have reached our camp
that night, if ever. Our way led over precipices
beside the rushing river, and the rain quite blinded
us even before the night came on. The welcome
sight of our men hunting for us with resin torches
SIMLA, KASHMIR, &c. 151
we are not likely to forget. At Srinagar we were
met with the unwelcome fact that cholera was
raging. Fortunately it is not near Nedou's hotel,
so after M 's departure I am peacefully staying
on to settle accounts. Our adventures have not
cost us much ! Horses, coolies, and food, besides
servants' wages, have not come to the amount I
expected. Of course this is greatly due to the
kind advice, also to the equipment, that we
obtained from Cockburn's Agency. The lotus
lilies are enormous ! The leaves about half a yard
round, the buds alone measuring several inches.
BENGAL.
1900.
September i^th. I have been travelling since
the 7th from Srinagar to Benares, with " Tops "
as my only companion to ward off thieves at night.
I have sojourned in Dak Bungalows, the Chambers
Hotel at Murree, and at Nedou's Hotel, Lahore !
At Pindi, I had time enough to inspect the
excellent Soldiers' Institute, founded by Miss
Sandes, who has a convalescent home at Murree.
The food that was served out was both good and
cheap, and the rooms bright and nicely furnished.
At last I know what Indian rains mean. " They"
should be over the plural sounds very funny in
Western ears, but is usual " East of Suez "
but, alas, they so worried me that, instead of
visiting Delhi, Amritsar, and Agra once again, I
have rushed down here, as quickly as a mail train,
impeded by a flooded line, would allow me ! A
pilot engine at one spot had to be sent on before
us and I therefore lost the connection at Mogul
Sarai, and had to wait some hours. The heat is
truly tremendous, 116 in the shade at the last
place, I was told, and I can quite believe it. The
Hotel de Paris at Benares is as cool as the steam-
152
BENGAL. 153
ing atmosphere allows, the cooking good, and
Parsee manager attentive.
September i$th. With a guide and A., I started
out to see the wonders of this holy city, whose
shrines are washed by Mother Gunga, and where
it is boasted no plague germ has been found !
Still, as cholera exists badly, one wonders why
the sacred waters are not proof against that also ?
The town itself does not strike me as being as
picturesque as many others I have seen, but when
once past the Observatory, after walking through
a narrow alley between small and dirty shrines, a
most extraordinary sight met us ! There on the
banks of the dirty Ganges, bathing and praying,
were multitudes of " all sorts and conditions of
men." Mothers were washing their own and
their children's heads with the black mud as soap !
Sedate Brahmins, statuesque in figure, with
refined, thoughtful faces, were performing acts of
worship with some of the sixteen sacred vessels
and pieces of cloth on the ground before them !
Eleven such acts of worship should be performed
each day by the devout Brahmin, before he begins
his work, but, usually, two suffice him. My
guide, also one of that high caste, chartered a
barge for me (such as Cleopatra might have used)
and under a perfectly monstrous bamboo umbrella
I was propelled down to the burning ghats. Shrine
after shrine we passed, many quite ruinous
(especially one built by a Maharaja of Gwalior),
154 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
as should a bad omen occur during construction,
or a relative of the builder die, the whole work
is stopped, and all is allowed to fall to pieces
by the hand of Time (in this country) the
Demolisher ! As the Ganges is in flood many are
under water, and very warily my boatmen had to
steer with their enormous poles, so as not to
ground on some terrace or wall. I saw the
funeral pyres blazing high, while weird figures (in
caste lower even than the "sweepers") darted
round them feeding the hungry flames. A lonely
red-covered woman's corpse was waiting its turn,
the white jasmine wreaths accentuating its pathos.
As Benares is considered so holy that death here
ensures a speedy entrance into the Hindu
Paradise, all over India people save up their
money, so that here they may die and be burned !
The famous temple of Amendi is most beauti-
fully carved in sandstone, even to figures hanging
from the gables. This afternoon I drove to the
Monkey and Golden Temples. In the first, its
large and small denizens fought with crows for
the grain that I found was en regie to buy for
them. As usual, the babies were quite charming,
but the huge grandparents treated them and
their devoted mothers very ungallantly. The
Golden Temple has only two domes, for the
owner's money (as is often the case at home)
failed before the third was completed. I saw
into the shrine, but it contains only three small
BENGAL. 155
black stones. The whole temple was so thronged
by worshippers, that my guide and A. had great
difficulty in forcing a way for me in its narrow
passages.
There is one temple whose pictures are par-
ticularly repulsive, I am told, to preserve it from
lightning, and the general public are not allowed
to see them a very wise arrangement that
might well be copied in Paris and Brussels.
The silk embroideries in the bazaars are very
gorgeous, for which I was asked almost Bond
Street prices. Fortunately, as usual, Indian
prices were accepted in the end.
I visited the women's hospital, and though the
lady doctor was away, a native matron kindly
shewed me all over. It is both clean and well
looked after, but requires more money to be laid
out to bring it up to modern requirements,
especially in the maternity ward and the operating
room. In the separate rooms provided for purdah
patients, I was introduced to a Nepaulese prince
who was watching by his wife, unconscious from
fever. Her bed was quite an ancient four-post
erection, with wonderful draperies. The husband
spoke excellent English, and told me many of his
family live in Benares, not being in favour at
present in Nepaul.
September i6th. After travelling from 2.25 yes-
terday to 6 a.m. to-day, I reached Calcutta and
drove to the " Grand." I speedily departed
156 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
thence, and found clean and cosy quarters at 14
Chowringhee, one of Mrs. Monk's many boarding
houses, presided over by a kind manageress. The
heat here is quite as trying as in Benares, so I
rested until evening service at the Cathedral.
It is a very handsome building, with an excel-
lently trained choir, and although Calcutta is
well nigh empty, a good sermon was preached to
a very fairly numerous congregation. The elec-
tric fans as punkahs I found very distracting.
Every now and then one stopped working, and in
spite of the whizzing above my head, I grew
agitated as to the state of our bodies and heads
if all should grow tired, as a few evidently did.
Bishop Heber's saintly effigy kneels at the west
end, a reminder of the great souls of the past,
who thought it no sacrifice of health or time to
preach Christianity to Hindus whom now, I am
constantly being told, " it is such a pity to
disturb in their grand ancient religion." Abbe"
Dubois' warning, at the beginning of the present
century, as to the danger of civilizing the native
without Christianizing him is being proved true,
especially in Bengal. On the other hand there is
a strong groping after truth among a minority of
thinking men.
September ijth. The rains are tremendous and
floods are feared. I drove to-day in the intervals
of fine weather on the Maidan, and past the
Eden Gardens, with their wealth of tropical
BENGAL. 157
foliage. When shopping in the English Quarter
I find the prices are even higher than those in
Bombay and Madras. Truly one would want the
Purse of Fortunatus if one lived here all the
winter.
Calcutta is called the " City of Palaces," owing
to the large solid stone edifices built by the
East India Company. It certainly impresses me
with its wide streets, green Maidan, fine gardens,
its racecourse, and its quaint river frontage.
The public buildings, save Government House,
are not as fine as those in Bombay. The Zoo is
well kept, and full of interesting creatures, one of
which, a baboon, fascinated me by his likeness to
a certain bishop.
September igth. To-day I am obliged to drive
into the rest house for my meals, so high is the
water standing in our compound, and even my
landau became a morass under my feet. The
Gwalior sails this week for China, and I was much
interested to hear about all the first-rate arrange-
ments for the comforts of its future invalids. The
Maharaja, who sails in her, has given his whole
personal attention to her fitting up.
September 2oth. Here I am up at Sonada, close
to Darjeeling, after most chilling experiences on
the way up. In torrents of rain poor "Tops"
and I were installed in a carriage that leaked all
over, the floor soon swishing with small rivulets,
A mother and her 20-days-old baby I tended.
158 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
while the Ayah squatted in a pool and sobbed
herself asleep. How we all managed to get
across into our steamer in the pitch dark in such
rain and wind, I know not ; poor A. already
was shaking from fever ! " Tops " was the only
dry passenger, having nestled under my cloak.
The crossing of the river is only 13 miles, and
after a night's journey in the railway with an
early morning change into the mountain one, I
reached my destination only two and a half hours
late. The scenery up is very fine, and, the rain
having ceased, I was able to get lovely glimpses
of the jungle and plains as we wound ever higher
and higher up the Himalayas. Again I saw my
Simla old friends, the deodars and beautiful
shrubs, clinging to the sides of the precipices and
gulleys. My host's tea estate commands a
magnificent view over towards Nepaul, and below
they pointed out to me the great damage done by
landslips, old and new.
Kurseong is a pretty village not far off, with a
large hotel and sanatorium.
September 22nd. To-day I moved on to Darj eel-
ing after a pleasant stay at Sonada, whose tea
gardens are picked by a picturesque set of
mixed Bhutians, Lepchas, and Nepaulese. At
Darjeeling these same tribes abound. The
Bhutian dress very much like the Tibetans (co-
religionists) but the women wear very long
turquoise earrings, and are handsomer.
BENGAL. 159
Darjeeling has greeted me in its best manner,
and in the front of my window in the Rockville
the Great Kinchinjanga allows his everlasting
snows to delight my eyes ! I am told many people
spend weeks here without seeing him. I may con-
sider myself fortunate. At sunset, before mists
hid him, the snows became a soft salmon pink,
quite unearthly in their beauty.
September 2$rd. As I started early to church,
the snows appeared and remained in view many
hours. There are many evidences of the earlier
and later landslips round the various hotels.
The one of this year, that we passed on foot
yesterday, very providentially carried no people
with it, but it seems as if the line will take many
months more before it is repaired. In Calcutta
we hear the rain measures 29 inches, so I only got
away just in time, and feel agitated as to the
damp-proof capabilities of my boxes, that were to
be moved down on to the ground floor. I went,
in a rickshaw down to the fair, in the bazaar,
that is held each Sunday. Such a picturesque
crowd I was pushed through, all merry and light-
hearted, while stately Indians from the plains
stalked solemnly through, making good bargains
for their Mem Sahibs. I see there is a difference
between the Bhutian and Tibetan dress. The
former have a sleeveless over-dress, with red or
grey under-bodice, in the case of the women, who
add a bright, parti-coloured apron, fastened round
160 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
their waists with silver bands. Their huge
crushed turquoise earrings hang to their shoulders
and have a silver chain fastened to their plaited
hair to help their unfortunate ears to bear the
weight! Some of the necklaces are exceedingly
strange, consisting as they do of countless rows of
tiny glass beads, ending in wooden barrels, very
elaborately carved and gilded. Others wear
broad silver chains, ending at the waist in large
silver bosses set with turquoises. The usual
Tibetan charms I see also.
September zgth. Poor "Tops" has been very
ill from distemper, and A. from fever, so I have
felt rather low. The mists of the last few days
have given me a bad cold, and certainly Darjeeling
has reminded me lately more of a Scotch moor in
October than of India. However, I have taken
many walks up and down the khund between my
ministrations to " Tops," and seen the outside of
the Bhutian temple, besides learning by heart
the various paths up and down the Mall. To-
day I rode on an excellent whaler to Senchal in
hopes of seeing Mount Everest, but did not start
early enough. Still, I had a lovely ride, past the
barracks, and along narrow mountain paths and
over Senchal, from which, as the clouds lifted, I
got a beautiful view. The ruins on the way, of
barracks and bungalows, are very weird. I hear
the site had to be abandoned owing to the soli-
tude being too great for the troops. Some sad
BENGAL. 161
cases of suicide are recorded. My little Goorka
syce was very chatty, and pointed out many
points of interest to me, and my horse's paces,
both in trotting and cantering, were quite perfect.
October ^th. The signs of the late floods in
Calcutta are easy to find, and a visitor to-day
told me many stories of the straits he and his
friends were put to, both for provisions and to
get to offices. My boxes are quite dry, although
the rain rose some inches over the top step into
our hall.
I visited the Black Hole this morning just a
marked-out spot in the pavement within the
courtyard of the Presidency post-office. How
a hundred and forty-three persons managed even
to stand on such a small enclosure amazes one.
As one calculates, only about six could possibly
do so.
The pit into which the dead were cast is near
by under the Eden Monument, I drove on to
the markets and bargained for " chickenwork,"
nothing else there seeming worth buying. In the
afternoon I went to see the end of the Durga Pooja,
a great Hindu feast that is kept as a holiday for
about ten days by all alike. Only necessary work
is done, the Banks even closing for some days.
As a cyclone prevents me leaving to-morrow for
Rangoon, I am glad to witness the strange rites
on the Ganges. The goddess is carried on a stage,
brightly painted and really very cleverly made up
M
162 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
out of plaster and paper, while the Devil and
some of her ministering demons crouch at her
feet. She is placed on a raft while the Brahmins
pray, and when well out in the river, is lowered
overboard and floats, until, sucked under the water
with her, go the sins of the people of Calcutta.
These said people were enjoying themselves quite
as much as their fellow subjects on the Whitsun
Bank Holiday on Hampstead Heath. As I
strolled through the well-behaved crowds on the
Maidan, I saw them buying candies, fruit, and
paper windmill toys, just as at home, the only
differences being the wealth of colour, the brightly
clothed and prettily decorated women, no rowdy
behaviour, and last, but not least, no drunkenness.
Have not we much to learn perhaps from the
poor benighted heathen ?
October $th. To-day I have spent much time in
this wonderful museum, especially in the Buddhist
rooms. Gautama's life is most graphically
carved in bas reliefs some from Orissa, 137 B.C.,
being particularly interesting. I also had the
room containing the Asoka edicts unlocked for
me, and longed, while wandering about among
these gigantic records, that some Sanscrit scholar
would interpret them for me. The museum is
charmingly constructed and laid out, its court-
yards being cool, with old remains scattered
about. As usual, crowds of natives stalked
about, among them some very handsome Meldari
BENGAL. 163
women, the wives of bunnias (merchants), who
originally came from Afghanistan. Their dress is
most picturesque, very full, the plaited skirts
(like the Rajputs), having tinkling silver bells
hung all round them.
October 6th. I left Calcutta, the cyclone being
nearly over, and am on the Africa, steaming
down the Hoogli for Burma. Garden Reach
looks very picturesque from the river, but, I hear,
is not so in the interior. The pilots on the
Hoogli are quite a different class to those in other
waters. Many of the boys on the Worcester,
with the highest marks, pass into this branch, as,
though the work is very hard at first, the pay
is excellent, and a good pension is secured. This
particular "B.I." line is better than that from
Colombo to Tuticorin, but still its ships leave
something to be desired as regards size of cabins
and saloons, not to speak of cooking.
BURMA.
1900.
October loth. In spite of our having steamed
in the " tail of the cyclone," and being rendered
therefore very uncomfortable, we reached Ran-
goon to-day, our fourth day after leaving Calcutta.
I had intended going on by the evening mail to
Mandalay, but was met by the news of a break of
over fifteen miles on the line! This makes the
fifth time I have been stopped by landslips from
heavy river floods, or rain washing away the sides
of mountains. From the river front Rangoon
does not look imposing, nor much like an Eastern
city ; only the Sule Pagoda and the gilt top of a
public building breaking the line of very untidy-
looking wharves and mercantile buildings.
Fortunately, a new hotel, " The Strand," has just
been opened, so that I am very comfortable, and
not obliged to stay on the steamer, as my friends
had to this spring, in the absence of any abode
suitable for our sex.
After tea, a kind friend called for me and drove
164
BURMA. 165
me round the lakes and through the cantonments.
These are very pretty, with luxuriant vegetation
and well laid out gardens. The bungalows also
look quite " up-to-date." Everywhere one meets
trim Chinese, often walking with their quaint
little Burmese wives. The latter are to me most
fascinating women their intelligent faces always
bright, and a torpedo cheroot between their lips.
They have neat figures, and dress in white jackets
falling over their tameins (like the Cingalese
camboys) of brilliant silks, their black, shining
hair fastened in a broad band across their fore-
heads, with combs and gold flowers tucked in.
All this, coupled with an independent carriage,
makes up a charming personality. The men are
much less attractive, and, I hear, are considered
so by their own countrywomen. They also wear
white jackets with a patso, or square garment, like
the women, only differently cut. On their heads
they wear silk handkerchiefs tied in a knot at the
side. At first sight I took them all for members
of our sex.
October nth. This morning I devoted to the
Pagodas, accompanied by a German lady who
had come over on the steamer in order to get rid
of malaria. As her one cry (she speaks no
English!) is for her gute mann and she neither
likes English people nor sight-seeing, I shall feel
more cheerful and less anxious when I know she
is on her way back to Calcutta to-morrow.
166 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
Owing to the cyclone, I have arrived just too
late for the great Buddhist feast, the end of their
Lent, which latter lasts three months ! Still, at
the Shwe Dagon Pagoda many musicians, fortune-
tellers, and dwarfs still remain. Of these last, a
Mussulman, with curious natural devices carved
over the palms of his hands and the soles of his
feet, attracted my attention. This great Pagoda
and its thirty or more shrines is erected (over
two hairs of Gautama's) on a raised platform, to
which we climbed by some hundreds of steps,
covered in by a roof of teak, and lined by shops.
Here sit the most independent company of sales-
women ! Some were asleep and had to be
awakened ; others were busy whitening their
dusky faces with a thick powder, made by the
pounding of a certain twig and its bark ! A very
few looked sleepily at the intending buyer, and
when a lower price than they liked was offered,
they shook their heads and hung up the article
again, with a calm ignoring of the offending
customer quite unknown elsewhere in India or
Turkey !
As plastering gold leaf on the various Buddhas
is a "work of merit," it is very interesting to watch
it being unrolled in a great hall at the top of the
last flight of steps. Small packets, according to
price, are sold to the devout, and certainly the
most sacred figure must be several inches thick !
It was a pretty and curious sight to watch the
BURMA. 167
worshippers kneeling in front of the great image
of Guatama, their hands joined palm to palm,
before their faces, often a lotus flower held
between. Others arranging small tapers or pots
of gaily coloured flowers on the tables in front, or
sticking a prayer flag in some niche ! Through
all the multitude silently the pongyis* moved,
clothed, as in Ceylon, in yellow robes, having the
right shoulder bare and carrying a palm fan.
This last is stated to protect their eyes from the
contemplation of our sex, but I must confess that
this morning, certainly, I never saw a holy man
require it.
The glass mosaic pillars and linings to the
shrines struck me as garish, though very
elaborate, but the quaint lions (unlike their living
kind), placed everywhere in memory of the foster
mother of a prince of great prowess and holiness,
are interesting survivals of the folklore of the
country. Gongs, umbrellas, and lonely deserted
alabaster Buddhas abound, while repairs and re-
building are going briskly on at the shrines that
are evidently favourites of the pious rich. No
breeze, however, awoke the countless little bells
that crown the tis, or umbrella tops of the
Pagoda, nor sounded a requiem for our soldiers
who lie in uncared-for graves behind it. They
fell storming this stronghold of Lower Burma, in
1824, and helped to place yet another jewel in the
* Priests.
1 68 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
Empire's diadem, and, as is the fate of their
fellows in India, their last resting places are
unworthy of their memories. The Sule Pagoda,
near the " Strand," is, very graceful, though not
well kept up, but a very interesting figure of the
nat, or guardian spirit of the Pagoda, is both
spirited and original.
October I2th. I spent the hours between 6 a.m.
and 9 a.m. in visiting Macgregor's timber yard.
Here some dozen elephants do all the hard
work of dragging the teak logs to be cut by the
lathes and placing them in lines. These are
used for "liners," also for "men of war" and
for furniture. Teak is the hardest wood in the
world and grows in abundance in the Burmese
jungles, which Government has taken mostly
into its own hands, but leases certain portions to
Messrs. Macgregor and the " Bengal and
Burmese Trading Company." The Forest
Department all over Lower and Upper Burma
is a very important branch of Government,
and very lonely lives its lower officials lead out in
the jungle, where fever rages in the wet season.
Heavy storms still go on at intervals, and I
returned this afternoon saturated, having been
for a drive in a turn-turn with only a leather
awning.
October i$th. To-day I drove a friend out to
the great Lakes, altogether some fifteen miles,
and although part of the road is being repaired,
BURMA. 169
the drive was a most enjoyable one. We passed
by the great pineapple gardens, and everywhere
the vegetation was most green and luxuriant.
The Victoria Lake is very English-looking, with
grass and trees growing close to its edge and
many charming bits of turf for canters. The
Burmese ponies are quaint, sturdy little beasts,
very swift and very sure. The Pongyi
Kyaungs, or Monasteries, round the Shwe Dagon
Pagoda, as well as the Rest houses for pilgrims,
are all of teak, carved with figures of nats,
scenes from domestic life, or mythological history.
Everywhere one meets Madrasis, who are the
servants (mostly a bad set), Chittagongis, the
river boatmen, and Panjaubis, who are soldiers
and police. The Burmans are not allowed to
carry firearms, and do not as yet fill many posts,
save as clerks, being mainly agriculturists, and
very lazy at that. Their women folk are the best
traders and the "gray mares" in the households.
October i^th. I left for Mandalay at 3.30, as
I was told the line was repaired. The country is
flat everywhere, small ^'s appearing among the
very English-looking trees. The railway carriages
are indeed a change after the comfortable Indian
ones. All the aged and dilapidated ones from
that country must have been shipped over here.
" Tops " and I both felt we had descended in the
social scale, although still travelling ist class.
October i$th. At 5.30 a.m. we came to where
i7o A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
the breach in the line had existed, thirteen miles
of which had been repaired, but the remaining
two, when seated in a trolley and laboriously
pushed by four steaming coolies, were a trial to
one's patience and olfactory nerves. When once
more seated in my wrongly named " ist class "
compartment, and moving slowly on, the scenery
as we approached the mountains dividing Burma
from the Shan States grew very beautiful,
bathed as it was in the soft, early morning light.
We discharged cargoes of those fascinating little
Burmese women at many stations, their dress and
carriage growing even brighter and more stately
as we got further into Upper Burma.
On our arrival at Mandalay I drove off in my
host's carriage to the fort or royal residence of
Mindon Min, and his son, Theebaw, the ex-king.
This was built in 1857-1860 when the capital of
Upper Burma was moved from Amarapura, it being
always the custom for every new king to change
his residence. The exile of Theebaw is considered
by his superstitious subjects as due to his breach
of the royal tradition. However, he had really
only his own rashness, the jealousy and cruelty
of Supuyalat, the youngest and best beloved of his
wives and step sisters, and the desire of the
British to bring all Burma under their beneficent
rule, to thank for the loss of his crown. On the
coast of Malabar, this priest-king, with a small
retinue, is spending the remainder of his life,
(1REAT BUDDHA. AMAKAl'UKA. UPPER HURMAH.
THE-CENTRI <>F TiiK r.\ivKk>K I-AI.ACK. MANDAI.AY
BURMA. 171
while his merry subjects very contentedly endure
the rule of their grave and sadly attired con-
querors.
Fort Dufferin, as this great enclosure, ij miles
square, is called, is surrounded by a moat 100 feet
wide with walls 26 feet high beyond it. These
walls have twelve gates surmounted by pyathats*
while inside were the royal palaces, retainers'
dwellings, pagoda, shrines, and monasteries, as
well as the soldiers' quarters and bazaar. Outside
a native city grew up, down to the banks of the
Irrawaddy, and by ascending a lofty platform,
the King and Queen were able to survey their
faithful subjects without fear of assassination.
Now, of course, English and native soldiers' lines,
with bungalows for their officers, government
offices, and the residence of the Governor cover
much of this enclosure. The inner stockade
guarding the palaces is now destroyed, though the
pretty flower garden, small lakes, and grottoes still
remain, round which we are told, the Queen and
her ladies in waiting played their favourite game
of "hide-and-seek." Supuylat's hall of audience,
is now the club. It is gorgeous with gilding and
remains of glass mosaic work, with an imposing
barbaric throne entered from behind by a great
gilt door of lattice work. From the base of the
throne up to its balustrade are small niches,
where formerly images stood. On a door near by
* Porticos surmounted by tapering spires.
172 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
I was shown the (supposed) bloodstains left by
an unfortunate lady whom the Queen killed in a
fit of jealousy. The former porticos and sleeping
apartments in the Queen's palace, as well as the
rooms set apart for her ladies, are now reserved for
the worship of the goddess Nicotine, cards, and
billiards, or as club chambers. Tout passe, tout
casse, and we English are nothing if not
practical.
The King's palace is turned into public offices,
and not much of its gold leaf decorations remain.
The great pride of the Burmans, called " The
Centre of the Universe," is the seven-storied gilt
spire over the great throne in the King's Hall of
Audience. Other graceful buildings are turned
into the Anglican and Wesleyan churches, while
Mindon Min's " spick and span " monument
stands near, in an iron railing. Everywhere the
atrocious English gas lamp stands out as a
reproach on the art of its country ! Why not
combine light and beauty in the open air as well
as often attempting it within buildings, and
occasionally carrying out the idea thoroughly.
October i6th. My hostess has introduced me
to-day to one of the most wonderful pagodas in
Burma, the Arrakan. It is approached, like the
Shwe Dagon, by four entrances, at the foot of
whose flight of steps stand the same " leogryphs,"
or faithful lions. The roof above the bazaars
that line the ascent is frescoed with scenes from
BURMA. 173
the " Wheel of Life," especially of the "cold and
and hot hells," and, as a happy contrast, " India's
Palace."
Waddell's book has helped me to understand
this complicated Buddhist system of the life of
Man, with its human life, its animal existence, its
Titan and ghost worlds, besides the extremes of
bliss and agony depicted in these frescoes. Here
we saw fish and birds to be sold to the devout
and then allowed to go free again as " marks
of merit," the sagacious sellers re-catching them,
and re-selling ad infinitum. Also, small plants
were to be purchased as well as gold leaf to
plaster on the great image, which already is
covered, except its brass face, some six inches
thick. This Buddha, brought from Arrakan in
1780, was cast, some say, in Gautama's life-time,
and is supposed to hear, but was breathed upon by
him and commanded not to speak until his next re-
incarnation. This is now being expected, and
daily the pongyis and pagoda slaves watch the
sacred face. I clambered up the steps behind the
statue (which is 12 feet high on a throne of 10 feet),
and tried to see the rubies and diamonds in the
head-dress, but the gold leaf was too thick to allow
of that. It is computed about R72O is spent every
month in plastering this on. Some prehistoric
bronze figures of men and elephants were brought
from Arrakan at the same time, and are supposed
to act as cures if only the patients rub on the same
174 A yoURNAL IN THE EAST.
parts of the statues as their own aching bodies.
The most common complaints, judging from the
glittering spots among the weatherbeaten bronzes,
are gout in the feet and indigestion. The figures
are quite unique, and I am told no date is assigned
to them. To me they look very Chaldean. A
huge bell hangs in this most interesting enclosure;
there is also a curious Rest house covered with glass
mosaic. A large tank, filled with turtles, with kites
hovering about it, and many small pagodas near
its banks, formed a pretty picture.
We next drove to the Queen's monastery,
which she had not opened when our troops took
Mandalay in 1886. The authorities, however,
allowed her to pay her last visit to it and throw
water over it, on her way to the steamer that
carried her and her dupe away into exile. This
kyaung is very highly carved and gilt ; it was
built from the proceeds of the state lotteries that
source of Burmese ruin. The fine carvings of
animals are especially good.
In the evening we drove out to see the " Royal
Work of Merit," built in 1859 by Mindon Min,
and on our way passed by 450 slabs, each under a
small pagoda, which are covered with the
Buddhist law. As the priests perform no acts
of ritual, nor attend the shrines (save as
worshippers), let us hope they study this code
and act up to it. I am told, save as teachers of
boys (who all go into the kyaungs for some years
BURMA. 175
of their lives), these pougyis only meditate, read
the edicts of Buddha to any of the devout who
come to listen, and look after the " works of
merit," the most important of which is their own
portions of food. These they have to buy each
morning, and it is a curious sight to see the pro-
cessions of yellow-robed men and boys, all
bearing great brass or wooden platters. As no
animal may be killed, the troops of lean, mangy,
and even dying dogs round the kyaungs are
disagreeable to all animal lovers. Only a stick -
may be used, and if that causes death it is voted
"by the visitation of God." The great glass
monastery we had not time to visit, but I saw
a colossal Buddha, surrounded by almost eighty
followers, each in his own niche, and some with
sweet faces.
October ijth. To-day, again, at 8 o'clock we
started over to see the Dragon Pagoda, built in
1847. Here the basso relievos of the nats
(guardians) are very fine. One of these had a
shrine to itself, and a black Buddha, of especial
sanctity, sat near, with two most curiously draped
white images of himself. The bronze bell, masts,
and umbrella are very graceful pieces of moulding
and carving. The great hall, where the scribes
transcribe the edicts and " good sayings" on palm
leaves is a marvel of carving. Huge dragons
support the roof, while monkeys, geese, and
ducks strut by, or hang on to the sides. The Rest
176 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
houses close by are of the same exquisite carving,
all in teak. The great silk bazaar we next drove
to, but I do not admire the colours of these well-
woven pieces all, I am sure, warranted to wear
for ever! The mingled greens and magentas,
with silver and gold thread woven in, suit the
dusky skins and ebon hair of these women, but
not even for linings to skirts do I fancy them.
The bright yellow and orange silks used for the
priests' robes tempt me much more ; also the
Shan silver work and the quaint chunam boxes.
The streets of the town of Mandalay are not
interesting, and as it is no longer the commercial
capital, I fear it will never " look up " in trade.
We drove to the sacred hill to-night where one
fish was burned to bring rain, and another to stop
the deluge that followed. This place is a great
place for picnics, and at its ford is a quaint little
kyaung whose musical gong calling to prayers
suited the soft, yet vivid glow of the sunset.
A great lake lies between this and Mandalay,
which now is covered with lotus flowers, violet and
pink. Close by Mr. and Mrs. Jackson were in
prison in the first Burmese war. Although too
late for the great pwes,* I was fortunate enough
to meet a long procession of girls, in gala dress,
with flowers arranged in their satin coils of hair,
going to present some shiine with tapers. These,
in English cardboard boxes, were piously carried
* Dances.
BURMA. 177
by each. A band and three dancing boys, who,
regardless of carts and carriages, twirled and
twisted about clad in green velvet, added a typical
Eastern touch to the picture.
October 2oth. After visiting Beatos' yesterday,
and investing in some of his beautiful carvings,
I went to-day to see the King's carver at work
near the " Centre of the Universe." He has made
the Burmese screen for the Paris Exhibition, which
only cost Ri,ooo as the wood was provided by
Government. His carving is very bold in relief
and very delicate in tracing, and the minute
drawings he showed us, all done by himself, are in
their own way as beautiful as is his work. In
the evening I was driven down to the river by the
King's drive over a curious old bridge bordered
by quaintly carved balconies, under which the
people watched for the gorgeous equipage of their
ruler. The view at sunset over the river, reminded
me of Italy.
October 2ist. After service to-day in the
garrison church, saddened by hearing of more
deaths among its congregation, we started
by launch for Sagaing, on the opposite bank to
Amarapura, the ancient capital. Here were
pagodas galore and long, curious, corridor shrines,
some containing as many as forty Gautamas in a
row. They got quite on my nerves, these large,
unhuman, white figures, each with little black
nobs over their heads. These are to represent
N
i;8 A yoVRNAL IN THE EAST.
the state of the teacher's hair, after he cut it off
on the " Great Renunciation. " The only
Buddhas, so far, I have admired are the copies of
the standing one that was burned a few years ago.
It is called the Buddha of Mandalay Hill, point-
ing one hand down over the city in protection.
After a very long climb, we reached a pagoda
on a hill overlooking the river, but neither it, nor
the shrine, were particularly interesting. The
present mode of decking out the statues with
paper flowers and linen garments adorned with
tinsel is painful in its contrast to the blandly
meditating face above. The views over the Shan
Hills and river were very beautiful, and on our
way down we visited a weird set of flat shrines,
built into the face of the rock, each closed by a
door. Perhaps they may be the caves where the
monks retire to meditate in darkness, some eight
hours daily.
October 22nd. I left my friends to-day, in order
to visit Molmyiu the hill station, though only
2,000 feet above the sea, of Upper Burma. On
arrival some good Samaritans carried me off to
dinner while they sent a man with A. and a
bullock cart up to the Forest Bungalow. A ride
on a bicycle after dinner first since February-
over cart ruts, with no moon and only a tiny lamp,
was a novel sensation, but only by this mode of
progression could my hosts convey me to my far-off
quarters. It is an admirable brick bungalow and
BURMA. 179
with A. sleeping on the landing outside my door
and " Tops " in my room, I feel quite safe,
though the durwan* is in his go-down some distance
off.
October 2$rd. My early morning's slumbers
were disturbed by the sound of bagpipes, and at
first I did not recollect that these musical instru-
ments (save the "mach" and "pace" my Scotch
ancestors'), belong also to our gallant Goorkhas, of
which a regiment is up here. Mohyniu lies on a
plateau shut in by hills over which the mist lay
until 8 a.m. A. cooks very well and my provision
basket is well stored for two days. Two visitors
came early to call on me, and by one I was called
off to see the market in the bazaar where A. had
preceded me to buy another chicken. Here I
made acquaintance with the Shans, in part of
whose annexed territory Mohyniu is. Men and
women alike of this race wear enormous straw
and bamboo hats, much larger than those of their
Chinese fellow subjects. Under these the women
wear a huckaback bath towel as a turban, also
hanging down to form a veil, and the usual
Burmese dress, but the men have full trousers,
and a silk handkerchief under their headgear.
Their faces are very round and thoroughly
Mongolian. The four races Burmese, Chinese,
Madrasis, and Shans were very busy bartering
curious compounds of stale fish, rice, or hats, and
* Carekeeper.
180 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
gaudy silks; but for me there was nothing to
carry away. We next visited a delightful old
Shan pongyi, in his clean kyaung, who em-
braced my companion with joy at seeing him.
He also was very polite to me, and although he
might not give me anything, begged that a gar-
denia from one of his cherished trees should be
presented to me. His shrine, with some twelve
brass standing Buddhas, was most interesting, as
were some beautifully carved and painted figures
of princes, demons, and nats. I made an offer
for one of the last which was most politely
negatived. The gongs here are particularly
melodious, and even echo as far as my bungalow
at morning and evening prayer. This priest's
fans are remarkably fine, his own particular
property being of peacocks' quills with a bright
green painted handle the whole over one yard
round. It was a present from King Theebaw.
Two huge tea trees are especial treasures, from
which he brews his own beverage. As the sun
was hot, I apologized for keeping my parasol
open, a great breach of etiquette when in a kyaung
or speaking to a pongvi. However, this one broke
his rule in not putting his fan before his face
while in a woman's presence, so we cried quits.
October 24^. To-day I have had quite a unique
experience in visiting a most extraordinary cave
under the great Goteik Gorge, over which an
American firm has just completed an enormous
BURMA. 181
bridge which will carry the Burma Railway
straight on into China. This is, by permission,
being run through the Shan States, which are not
Government property. Accompanied by our
hosts, Messrs. W. and H. (after trolley ing from
the last station down to the Goteik), we were
conducted to the base of the gorge, whence
we crawled, or climbed, or were pulled, over
smooth rocks, along rickety pieces of bamboo
laid across the torrent, or up the same placed as
ladders on the huge boulders. At last, wet to our
skins from the water below and above us, we
stood on the furthest rock in this underground
river and admired the pale yellow stalactites
hanging from the cavern's roof and sides. The
deposits of lime covering the stones made it very
difficult to keep our footing, and, interested as we
were by the novel experience, we were not sorry to
get back to the bungalow, change our saturated
clothing, and have a huge tea. Afterwards we
went on the bridge, the engineer explaining to us
how the huge mass had been made in Penn-
sylvania solely from measurements, and how it
had taken little more than six months to put into
position. May it carry heavy traffic well ! Its
transit will certainly be as thrilling to passengers
as is that of the Chappar Rift in Sind ! We
returned to our hosts' bungalow by the con-
struction train, sitting on bales with a mixed
company of many varied natives.
182 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
October 2?th. I am on my way to Bhamo, on
the Mandalay, a cargo boat of the Irrawaddy
Flotilla Company. She carries a bazaar and a
crowd of its owners, I being the only first-class
passenger. At each place where we stop the
Burmese and Chinese swarm on board to buy
their garments, utensils, and provisions for the
week. The traders, I am told, make such an ex-
cellent profit that they pay sometimes as much as
Rioo for their freight, also R6 each way for each
adult. As I notice the families are generally more
than two, their purses must be well lined. Every
day the part of the deck they use for a bazaar,
sleeping, and eating, is washed, and tidy places
where they can cook their food are provided. My
cabin, and also the food, is excellent, and the
officers (all English) are most polite. To my
surprise, I find the river flat.
At Thabeikyin we halted, whence the march
to the Ruby Mines commences. Unfortunately, it
is not considered wise for me to go up on account
of the malaria being rampant, as rains are only just
over. These mines were formerly Government
property, but are now leased to Mr. Streeter, of
Bond Street, who has formed a company. This I
am told is beginning to pay a small dividend, but
the difficulties have been great in working the
excavations that cover a hundred acres. The
labourers are mostly Shans and Chinese.
It is most amusing to watch the independence
BURMA. 183
of the saleswomen on board. One actually
snatched back several times the parcel of
vegetables her customer had commenced to
pack up, as he evidently tried to lower her price.
In the evening (as we always then make fast to
the bank) the captain took me into the jungle and
showed me the place where Captain Vaughan
was murdered in 1887, and the gallows, just above,
where the three dacoits, his murderers, were
hanged. It was a weird sight by moonlight. At
a picturesque village near by is a weather-stained,
interesting pagoda with many standing Buddhas
all clothed in gilt bronze, picked out in colours to
resemble jewels. The whole enclosure, with its
beautifully carved kyaung, Rest houses, quaint
garden, and moss-covered walls (from which we
had a fairy-like view over the river and woods),
was a picture that I shall never forget.
October 2gth. At Tigyaing. I had a delightful
walk to-day (guarded by " Tops " and A.) round
several ancient pagodas, said to be founded in
the sixth century B.C. Thirty-one kings reigned
here in succession until the Chinese invasion.
For the learned, curious stones with inscriptions
in gupta are interesting.
At Tigyaing, where we stayed the night, the
Chinese encampment can easily be traced. There
are many half-ruined pagodas, and a lonely forest
official ! The dogs pester poor "Tops" dreadfully,
but fortunately stones abound to throw at them !
1 84 A yOURNAL IN THE EAST.
The villagers everywhere are most polite, and I
can scarcely believe that I ever read accounts of
the insecurity of life in Upper Burma.
October ^oth. Katha is a very pretty place,
renowned for its being the largest cemetery in
Burma ! Here Theebaw sent his enemies to die
from fever, but his successor, the British Govern-
ment, has so drained the place and cut down its
jungle that some day it may be turned into a
sanatorium. The railway also touches here now,
and its trade is getting quite brisk. I counted
twenty-eight pagodas, including a huge central
one in the shrine of which the Buddha of marble
and gold is very fine. In front of an even older
one, a woman was reciting " good sayings " and
holding up an empty bottle to the still face above
her. I could not help feeling she was praying her
soul out to one who had suffered, and who now,
she thought, could help her. The sunset, as
ever, was magnificent in its violet and gold.
October $ist. At Shwegu to-day I had a most
interesting walk through the very large village,
with quite English-looking lanes backed by the
mysterious jungle. The most interesting shrine,
near some kyaungs, is literally crammed with
saints and nats, and very ordinary-looking human
beings. Four angels stand (one at each corner)
on crushed demons, resembling toads, but as no
Buddha was there I suppose they are re-painting
him. At sunset, buffaloes were brought down to
BURMA. 185
bathe in the river, ridden each by a small boy.
Everywhere tiny Shan puppies excited my ad-
miration, though glances at their mothers tell me
what starvation and pariah ancestry would make
them soon look like ! On an island opposite is a
large pagoda erected over part of Gautama's
frontal bone, and in March thousands of pilgrims
come to adore it. I visited the village school
where very inattentive teachers were lolling
about. The paucity of men here is quite extra-
ordinary, the proportion being only one in eight,
and the score remaining, judging from my walk,
are the most hideous I have yet seen in Burma !
November ist. Bhamo is a very flourishing
little place, with a large bazaar, where A. very
easily picked up stores for my five-days' journey
up to Myitkyma, through the third defile of the
river. The second defile is fine, but after Norway
I was rather disappointed. My host took me a
charming drive through, as usual, very English
scenery, with the mountains on one side and the
river on the other. A Chinese temple is a curious
feature here. Inside and out, it is covered with
plaques sketched all over in black and white on
colour. There are many courts with very ghastly
guardians, and animals supposed to represent
horses. In the innermost shrine is a figure of a
pre-incarnation of Gautama, with rows of
Bodhi-satwas, or Buddha's elect, whose appear-
ance did not give me any feeling of sanctity, only
1 86 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
of incarnated demons. Some appeared to be
eating human flesh, and yet I was told by a friend
learned in Buddhist traditions that these gentry
were Bodhi-satwas ! Certainly Chinese imagina-
tions must be largely influenced by nightmares
caused by rat-tail soups, birds' -nest entrees, and
snail jellies !
November 2nd. I am on a Government launch
kindly lent to me by the Deputy Commissioner.
It has only a deck cabin, with a bench running
round it, on part of which I sleep, and on part
keep my stores. Outside, by the wheel, there is a
table, another bench, and a deck-chair. The
sarang (captain) and his men are all Chittagongis,
and not particularly civil, but A. cooks and
makes me very comfortable, and the scenery is
delightful. From 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. we had been
passing through the beautiful Upper Defile, that
so few travellers in Burma ever see. It is only
now just open to a launch as, during the rains, the
rapids are too dangerous to be traversed. On
every side the hills are most exquisitely wooded
and the rocks stand out of the water in most
picturesque forms. We have anchored for the
night beneath an ancient pongvi kyaung, at the
foot of which I took " Tops " a walk in the dark.
November $th. After a tiresome experience
caused by sticking on a sandbank in mid-stream
during a dense fog, we are now at Myitkyina,
within forty miles of Chinese territory. " Tops,"
BURMA. 187
having caught a chill in the fog, is quite ill, and
has lost his spirits, poor little fellow. As both
Dak Bungalow and circuit house are crammed by
officers from out-stations in for their examinations
in the Kachin, Shan, and Karen languages, I am
remaining on the launch. My friends here have no
spare bedroom either. This is only a small place,
with two European ladies and some eleven military
and civil officers as stationary population. It is
reported to rain here three hundred days out of
the year, so among both Europeans and the
Goorkha police fever is very common. There is
a small club and a good bazaar, and I am being
most hospitably entertained.
November $th. I went over the native hospital
to-day, and was amazed to hear what a pittance
Goverment gives towards its maintenance. Only
Rioo for " wear and tear" in mattresses, &c., and
not a sufficient sum for drugs ! Everything was
very clean, but a too large number of Goorkhas
are being treated for fever. These hardy little
fellows, I am told, are very reckless and spend
too much in gambling and not enough in cloth-
ing, beside the regulation Government allowance.
November jth. I returned to Mandalay by
rail, a most beautiful route, as the train ran
through jungle. When the moon rose, the light
filtering through the mysterious glades was a very
lovely sight. " Tops " is so ill that an English
farrier has him in charge. To-night I was lucky
i88 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
enough to be present at a temple feast and to
witness a pwe* danced by the ex-king's own
dancer and a younger man. Very gracefully they
twirled in and out, every now and then trilling a
part song. They then recited a poem in honour
of the royal exile, so I was informed by an
English-speaking Burman. In return I pointed
out to him the advantages of living under rulers
who allowed this freedom of speech, whether in
poetry or prose ! I concluded by saying that no
other nation would permit it. His answer was
both true and naive, " If a man be good, he is safe
for life under the English." The feast was a
most remarkable collection of cold chickens (how
killed?), cakes, jellies, and sweets, amounting
in value to some thousands of rupees, and spread
ori five large tables in front of the most sacred
Buddha. Gongs, pagodas, and trees were all
represented very artistically in edibles. These
will all be given to the pagoda slaves, who are
the custodians of the pagoda and shrines, and
after keeping as much as they and the dogs want,
they will sell the remainder. The pongyis will have
a special gift in rice and flour. It was a very
pretty scene, and I walked about (the only
European present) among the multitudes of
merry, polite people, watching the tea parties and
the graceful little women smoking their huge
cheroots with much gusto.
* Burmese dance.
BURMA. 189
November 8th. To-night, from the Government
bungalow where I am kindly allowed to stay, the
hotel being bad and my friends in camp, I went
to a puppet show. It was held in the open street,
and began at 10 p.m. and will continue till 6 a.m.
The Burmans certainly delight in " a night out,"
and when I left were still contently sitting watch-
ing the fairy, or heroic scenes very well done by
marionettes. Although again I was the only
Englishwoman present, room was made for me,
and a chair lent me, and never once was A.'s big
stick nor that of the other servants required.
November gth. To-day I have spent at Amara-
pura, and took a guide besides A. with me. This
former large capital of Mindon Min's father,
consists now of an enormous collection of ruins,
among the jungle. Buddhas by the hundreds are
there, one a huge image of (seemingly) concrete
refuses to allow a shrine to be built over his head.
My guide (who declared he was servant to the
king) vouches for some five having been erected
each one being taken down by invisible hands
during the night, though en one occasion a
minister slept near as guardian.
November loth. " Tops " died to-day from
acute pneumonia. I brought him back just in
time, and mourn my faithful little companion
sincerely ! Still, owing to the hard English law
regarding our canine friends, I could not have
brought him back home, so perhaps he is better
i go A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
off in his " happy hunting grounds." Some
friends carried me off to see a Japanese troupe of
acrobats to take off my thoughts.
November nth. The " S. P. G." church at the
two morning services is no better attended than is
the garrison one, judging from my experience
to-day. In fact, owing to want of a congregation,
the sacristan informed me that morning prayer
had ceased (pro tern., let us hope) to be said !
In the afternoon a friend drove me to a very
great function the marriage of the daughter of a
titular princess to the son of a " C.T.E.," himself
a " D.S.P."* the highest position a Burman at
present can rise to. It was a very pretty sight,
these crowds of brightly-attired people, whose
clothes made ours look quite sombre, though
many were in white muslin. The bride, her
mother, and sister received us, and quite English
refreshments, even to champagne, were handed
round. The bride was in court dress, rose-
coloured tamein embroidered in gold and silver,
and an embroidered pink low vest under her
white muslin jacket, with curious standing-out
ends behind. A diamond necklace, jewels, and
flowers in her coal-black hair, completed a
charming toilette. Buddhists have no religious
ceremony for marriages, but in this case, before
the pair ate the rice from golden bowls while
sitting on a divan, Brahman astrologers recited
*Deputy Superintendent of Police.
BURMA. 191
the omens and gave a congratulatory address to
each of the couple. The final rite was a piece of
white muslin stretched over their knees ! The
pwes were very gorgeous and were to last all
night. Two interesting old men, in white court
costumes were pointed out to me as the former
Lord High Admiral and Chief Judge. They wore
twisted white handkerchiefs round their heads
de rigueur on great occasions.
November I2th. To-day by the kind orders of
the Director of Public Education, the Burman
" D.I.E.'s" came at 7.30 and took me to visit a
couple of schools. Evidently at both all was in
gala for me. The girls, who prostrated them-
selves at my entrance on their clean mats, wore
their prettiest tameins, their cheeks were newly
whitened, and bright gold and red flowers were
arranged in their hair. The first school was on
the co-educational system, from 5 to 7 years old,
with the usual "kindergarten" system of instruc-
tion, viz., plaiting of paper, moulding in clay, and
model lessons. The maps were especially care-
fully drawn, and I saw some big boys of 15
find Pebree at once, and give all the rivers, &c.,
in Asia. The writing was very neat, and well
penned, and scarcely a blot was to be seen.
These fine Burmese pens tend to produce neatness.
No English is taught, just the "3 R's" and some
religious education by the very intelligent teachers,
who welcomed me very warmly. Eight annas a
i 9 2 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
month is paid by each town child and four annas
in the country districts. This pay goes to the
teachers, who also get capitation fees and also R5
if higher examinations are passed.
This system of education is new and on its trial,
but so far has had excellent results, though I am
told it is difficult to work up the lazy boys to
compete for the highest certificates of merit.
The girls are far more plodding and ambitious
Certainly the Burmese women are a long way
ahead of their men in every way.
November i$th. After a delightful picnic on
Mandalay Hill, I said good-bye with regrets to its
charming, though, alas, insalubrious city, went
aboard the Hindustan, and after a pleasant
journey of two and a half days, am at Nyaungu.
The Circuit House had been prepared for me by
orders of the S. D. O. (a Burman), and I am very
comfortable, with a well-filled tiffin basket, and
an obsequious durwan.
Pagan, the city of monsters and one thousand
pagodas, is about five miles off, and was founded
in 839 A.D., on the scene of the feats of the
Burmese Hercules. He killed a tiger, boar,
dragon, man-eating bird, and last, but not least, a
vast creeping pumpkin ! I started out at 12 a.m.
with the durwan (a Madrasi) as guide, and was
driven for miles over ruins, through ruts, and up
sides of walls in a bullock cart, where even a
mattress and two pillows did not afford any
BURMA. 193
comfort to my aching body. The wheels here
are made out of a solid piece of wood, and the
bullocks go exactly where they wish, regardless
of natural and artificial obstacles.
I was thankful to get out and to explore the
wonderful Ananda Pagoda, a vast square temple
containing the four Buddhas (i) Kathan (2)
Kathaba, (3) Ganugun, (4) Gautama. The
bas reliefs are very fine, representing Hindu
scenes on one side and Bodhi-satwas on the other.
It is so arranged that the light falls very prettily
on the four gilt figures. A pongyi not only
allowed me to carry off some eleventh century
wood carving, but gave me my choice of a terra-
cotta plaque.
A German savant had arranged to take this
last and many more spoils away with him
(harvested during the night), but the sagacious
pongyi put the authorities on his track, and
all the returned treasures are now heaped up in a
garden house. The Gaudapalin and Thapinyu
Pagodas are not far off and in good preservation.
The last dates from uoo A.D., with the image
chamber 50 feet from the ground. The pretty
Bhodi one is an exact copy of that in India,
being pure white brick in Hindu fashion with
countless small niches up to its very top. Its
shrine is also very Indian, and there are many
small Buddhas, each in a niche. The villagers
are verily of the woods, and being not so used to
o
i 9 4 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
strangers, as in other places, gathered round me
by crowds, when I began my lunch. They were
dirty and " jungley," as my durwan expressed it.
Their occupation is making the lacquer bowls
and boxes that one sees in all the bazaars. I
watched its manufacture. The bamboo frames
are painted in black, and are then stencilled in
the various red and yellow colours mostly used.
Some of it is very elastic and of finer quality, but
I do not admire it as I do that of Kashmir and
Japan. We stopped at several kyaungs being
renovated by carvers, whose work is very fine,
and, when age has softened the colour of the teak,
will look quite as artistic as does the old. Another
Englishwoman besides myself is in Nyaungu,
whose husband is head of the police. She tells
me she is quite accustomed to a solitary life, hav-
ing been born in the country. The view at sun-
set from my elevated bungalow is most gorgeous,
and I can count about one hundred ruined
pagodas from my balcony. A quaint Buddha,
with a shrine growing out of his mouth, is on a
hillock below me. He is about 50 feet high.
November i6th. To-day I started out at 9.30
with A. and ploughed my way through the sand
that heaps up the so-called roads through the
village till we reached the Golden Temple. We
once stopped, as I admired a new house so much
that its owners invited me inside. It is all
carved from eaves to the balcony, where the
BURMA. 195
front door should be. Everything was clean and
refined, the sleeping mats being neatly rolled up
and the cocoa-nut matting quite new. To the great
Golden Pagoda a most curious paved walk leads
like a terrace with huge "leogryphs" and
" guardians " at both ends. The Temple is
being re-gilt and the Rest houses and shrines
re-carved. In its quaint enclosure several picnic
parties of pongyis and their flocks were much
enjoying themselves, while an astrologer was
making out a horoscope with a pointed metal
pen on palm paper. One of the Buddhas was
especially rich in the inlaying of his robes with
coloured glass representing jewels. He was
standing, while a very huge figure was recumbent.
The treasures of golden flowers, gongs held up
by strange wooden monsters, and curious animals,
were all very interesting, and a new portico
covered with coloured carved scenes out of the
Burmese folklore, and from Gautama's life, quite
fascinated me. My dress and rings much excited
the women, who examined me with interest.
Quite different are they to the inland Burmans.
November ijth. Again to-day I went fifteen
miles in my bullock cart, but got so used to its
jolting that I slept peacefully on my mattress all
the return journey. The pagodas were not as
interesting as yesterday's, and the Buddhas,
some a hundred feet high, more hideous. At last
I refused to enter any more, and returned home
196 A JOURNAL IN THE EAST.
to a well-earned rest, enjoying again the
incomparable view over the river, jungle, and
pagodas. When the durwan presented his bill
(as I leave very early to-morrow) it was so
exorbitant that I just tore it up and wrote my
own as, though I had brought all my food, save a
chicken and some vegetables, he had charged
me a la carte for each meal.
November 20th. Back again in Rangoon after
two pleasant days on the river and a visit to the
very interesting pagodas at Prome. At one of
these there are figures in stone of Europeans,
soldiers, evidently of the last century. The
notice on the board that " all English people and
Asiatic Europeans may retain their shoes " amused
us immensely ! Our journey to Rangoon took
us all night by train, and thus shortens the river
journey by some days,
November 22nd. My friend and I went a trip
to-day to Moulmein, taking from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m.
The steamer is most comfortable, and by per-
mission of its captain we remained on board all
night, as this circuit home is full. From the sea
the view of this strange little place is very
beautiful, but on landing we found the town
dirty, though the European part is well laid out.
There are three rivers, on one of which Moulmein
stands, studded with numberless small islands.
November 23rd. To-day at 6.30 we started in a
gharry* for the famous caves, the glory of this
*Carriage.
197 BURMA.
neighbourhood. By ferry-boat and a bullock
cart we finally reached our destination, and were
well rewarded, although the heat was very great.
The rocks are most singular, mostly detached
and covered on the tops with trees. Fortunately
we met a fellow-passenger just as we found out
that our guide had forgotten to bring torches, and
he kindly took us in charge with his.
The first two caves have many Buddhas, and
were formerly lined with terra-cotta plaques, but
the hand of the spoiler has evidently been here.
The remainder are studded with stalactites and
swarms of bats, which, disturbed by us, swept
down the distant wide galleries, leaving an evil
odour behind them. In the afternoon the captain
accompanied us to see two more pagodas, our last
in Burma, very fine ones, both on a high ridge
commanding a splendid view over the rivers, and
towards the sea. Glass mosaics and " leogryphs "
crouching on demons abound.
November zSth. To-day I said goodbye to
delightful Burma, and turned my face home-
ward in the Staffordshire, feeling quite sad to
think my wander jahr is over and only a voyage
through well-known seas remains.
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PRINTERS,
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