See other formats

Full text of "Lessons in cookery. Hand-book of the National training school for cookery (South Kensington, London) To which is added, The principles of diet in health and disease"

UC-NRLF 



E73 



GIFT OF 
DALIUDA COTEY 




MAIN LIBRARY 



LESSONS IN COOKERY, 



HAND-BOOK 

OF THE 

- --- 

NATIONAL TRAINING SCHOOL FOR COOKERY 

(SOUTH KENSINGTON, LONDON). 



TO WHICH IS ADDED 

THE PRINCIPLES OF DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

BY THOMAS K. CHAMBERS, M. D. 



EDITED BY 

ELIZA; A. YOUMANS. ,.. ; . 



NEW YORK: 
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY, 

649 AND 551 BROADWAY. 

1879. 



*< 



COPTBIGHT BT 

D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 

1878. 



PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION. 



THE present work on cookery appeared in England under the 
title of " The Official Hand-Book of the National Training School for 
Cookery," and it contains the lessons on the preparation of food 
which were practised in that institution. It has been reprinted 
in this country with some slight revision, for the use of American 
families, because of its superior merits as a cook-book to be con- 
sulted in the ordinary way, and also because it is the plainest, sim- 
plest, and most perfect guide to self-education in the kitchen that 
has yet appeared. In this respect it represents a very marked 
advance in an important domestic art hitherto much neglected. 

A glance at its contents will show the ground it covers, and how 
fully it meets the general wants. The dishes for which it provides 
have been selected with an unusual degree of care and judgment. 
They have been chosen to meet the needs of well-to-do families, and 
also those of more moderate means, who must observe a strict econ- 
omy. Provision is made for an ample and varied diet, and for meals 
of a simple and frugal character. Receipts are given for an excellent 
variety of soups, for cooking many kinds of fish in different ways, for 
the preparation of meats, poultry, game, and vegetables, and for a 
choice selection of entries, souffle's, puddings, jellies, and creams. 
Besides the courses of a well-ordered dinner, there are directions 
for making rolls, biscuits, bread, and numerous dishes for breakfast 
and tea, together with a most valuable set of directions how to pre- 
pare food for the sick. The aim has been to meet the wants of the 
great mass of people who are not rich enough to abandon their 
kitchen to the management of professional cooks, and who must keep 
a careful eye to expense. But while the costly refinements of artis- 

418543 



Iv PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION. 

tic and decorative cookery are avoided, there has been a constant ref- 
erence to the simple requirements of good taste in the preparation 
of food for the table. 

But the especial merit of this volume, and the character by which 
it stands alone among cook-books, is the superior method it offers 
of teaching the art of practical cookery. It is at this vital point 
that all our current cook-books break down ; they make no provi- 
sion for getting a knowledge of this subject in any systematic way. 
So much in them is vague, so much taken for granted, and so much 
is loose, careless, and misleading in their receipts, that they are 
good for nothing to teach beginners, good for nothing as guides to 
successful practice, and only of use to those who already know 
enough to supply their deficiencies and protect themselves against 
their errors. In fact, the hand-book required to teach cookery 
effectually cannot be made by any single person in the usual man- 
ner, but it must be itself a product of such teaching. 

The present volume originated in this way, and embodies a 
tried and successful method of making good practical cooks. The 
lessons given in the following pages came from a training kitchen 
for pupils of all grades, and the directions of its receipts are so mi- 
nute, explicit, distinct, and complete, that they may be followed 
with ease by every person of common-sense who has the slightest 
desire to learn. They are the results of long and careful practice in 
teaching beginners how to cook, and have grown out of exercises 
often repeated with a view of making them as perfect as possible. 
It is commonly regarded as a good thing in a cook-book that its 
compiler has tested some of its receipts and points out the troubles 
and failures likely to occur in early trials. But the completeness 
of the instructions in this work was attained through the stupidities, 
blunders, mistakes, questionings, and difficulties of hundreds of learn- 
ers of all capacities, doing the work over and over again under the 
critical direction of intelligent, practical teachers, who were bent 
upon finding out the best method of doing each thing, and the best 
method of teaching others how to do it. Not a single item neces- 
sary to perfect the required process is omitted. The steps are sep- 
arated, and given in numerical order, so as to enforce attention to 
one thing at a time, and the right thing at the right time, while the 
precautions against mistakes are so careful that even the dullest can 
hardly go wrong. Each receipt in the volume is not only the formula 



PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION. V 

for a dish, but it is also a lesson in a practical process, so that in the 
preparation of every article of food something is gained toward 
greater proficiency in the art of cooking well. 

A few words in regard to the origin of the school in which it was 
produced will still further illustrate the character of this work. A 
vigorous movement has been made in England to elevate this branch 
of domestic economy by establishing schools for training pupils in 
the art of cookery. These schools have grown immediately out of 
the need of greater general economy among the working classes, as 
it was seen that the high prices of provisions were seriously aggra- 
vated by not knowing how to make the most of them in their kitch- 
en preparation. The attention of the managers of the South Ken- 
sington Museum of Arts in "West London was several years ago 
drawn to the subject ; and feeling that something required to be done, 
they established public lectures on the preparation of food with plat- 
form demonstrations of various culinary operations. But it was 
quickly found that mere exposition and illustration, though not 
without use, were wholly inadequate to the object in view ; because 
a cooking school, .to be thorough, must provide for practice. Lectur- 
ing, and explaining to pupils, and barely showing them how things 
are done, is sure to fail because cookery, like music, can only be 
learned by actually doing it. As well undertake to teach the piano 
by talking and exhibiting its capabilities as to teach a person how to 
make a dish properly by only listening and looking on. Provision 
had therefore to be made for forming classes to do themselves what 
they at first only saw others do. 

But this task was by no means an easy one. There were no pre- 
existing plans to follow ; qualified teachers and suitable text-books 
were wanting ; it was an expensive form of education ; the public 
thought it a doubtful innovation; and educational authorities dis- 
couraged it. But the parties interested decided that the time had 
come for a systematic and persistent effort. They felt their way 
cautiously, and in 1874 organized classes for graded courses of prac- 
tice. The object was to give women the best possible instruction in 
practical cookery, and for this purpose the school was open to all. 
But to make its work most largely useful, it was constituted as a 
Normal School for training teachers to go out and establish other 
cooking schools in different parts of the country. This has been 
since done with the most encouraging success, so that there are 



vi PREFACE. TO THE AMERICAN EDITION. 

, already a large number of cooking schools in England connected with 
the National or Common School system. 

As no cook-book to be found was worth anything to aid the 
practical instruction proposed, the teachers had to take this matter 
in hand at the outset. They began by drawing up a careful set of 
directions to be followed by the learners in doing their work. For 
each lesson in all the grades each pupil was furnished with a printed 
sheet of these directions, stating the ingredients of each dish to be 
prepared, the quantities and separate cost of these ingredients, what 
was to be done first, what next, and so on through the whole series 
of operations, nothing being assumed as known, and all the minute 
steps being indicated in the order that was found best. These guides 
were necessarily imperfect at first, and were subject to constant re- 
vision and extension as experience suggested corrections; in fact, 
they embodied the progress of the school in the successful attainment 
of its object. At each new printing the improvements that had been 
made were incorporated, and only after years of trial were these 
guides to practice at length combined and issued in a book-form. 
The lessons or receipts of this volume were all slowly elaborated in 
this painstaking manner, and the mode of working proved perfectly 
successful with the pupils. It was easy and pleasant, yet careful and 
thorough, and secured a rapid and gratifying proficiency. 1 

In saying that the South Kensington Cooking School has been 
successful, I speak from direct knowledge of it. I was a pupil there 
for several weeks, and carefully observed its operations. The classes 
showed the most extraordinary mental and social diversity. There 
were cultivated ladies, the daughters of country gentlemen, old house- 
keepers, servants, cooks, and colored girls from South Africa, togeth- 
er with a large proportion of intelligent young women who were 
preparing to become teachers. They worked together with a har- 
mony and good feeling that, I confess, somewhat surprised me, but 



1 The honor of contributing chiefly toward the establishment of this school and super- 
intending its development is due to Sir Henry Cole, the able director and master mind of 
the Bouth Kensington Museum. By his firm purpose and excellent judgment a novel 
experiment, surrounded by many difficulties, became a recognized success and a great 
national benefit. The "Lessons" were gradually brought into shape by the teachers, 
under the supervision of the accomplished daughter of Sir Henry Cole, whose initials 
(R. O. C.) were appended to them as revised for use in the school, and are also sub- 
scribed to the English Preface of this work. 



, 

PREFACE TO THE AMERICA^EDlMNl -7< //QtYfp^Qj 

they were all closely occupied and thoroughly interested ina TfoiSttJ^jg *> 
object. There were teachers to provide materials, to plan the daily *i 
work, to direct operations, and to be consulted when necessary; but 
the admirable method adopted left each learner to go through her 
task with but a small amount of assistance. Indeed, the complete- 
ness of the directions in hand seemed to assure the success of every 
pupil from the start. There was, of course, a difference in dexterity, 
and in facility of work previously acquired ; but raw beginners went 
on so well that they were astonished at what they found themselves 
able to do. 

American ladies when looking over these lessons are apt to smile 
at their extreme simplicity and triviality, but it must be remembered 
that the difference between good and bad cookery is very much a 
matter of attention to trifles. Slight mistakes, small omissions, 
little things done at the wrong time, spoil dishes. The excellence 
of these lessons consists in their faithfulness in regard to minutiae, 
and the habits they enforce of attention to trifling particulars. They 
make no claim to literary merit. The receipts are homely, direct, and 
meant only to be easily and distinctly understood. They are full of 
repetitions, because processes are constantly repeated, and it was 
necessary that the directions in each receipt should be full and 
complete. They are not enticing reading, because they were made 
to work by. The book, in fact, belongs in the kitchen where cook- 
ery is done ; and it is now republished because its success there has 
been demonstrated. Many hundred persons totally ignorant of the 
subject have become efficient and capable cooks by pursuing the 
mode of practice here adopted by going through these lessons 
and the same results can be obtained by pursuing the same method 
anywhere. American housekeepers who have any real interest in 
home improvement, and are willing to take a little pains to instruct 
their daughters or their servants in the art of cooking well, will 
find the volume an adequate and invaluable help toward the attain- 
ment of this object. It will prove a useful text-book in the cooking 
schools and young ladies' cooking clubs that are springing up in this 
country, and classes could be advantageously formed, by its help, 
for kitchen practice in every female seminary. 

In revising these lessons but very slight changes have been made, 
and those only of form. The prices of articles, an important feat- 
ure in the original work, and essential in the cooking school, have 



PKEFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION. 

been omitted, as they do not apply in this country ; and American 
prices have not been substituted because they vary so much in differ- 
ent localities. As the lessons were furnished on separate sheets for 
daily use in the school, they all took the form of the following ex- 
ample, and have been modified in the manner shown by referring 
to the same lesson on page 180 of the present volume : 



MAYONNAISE SAUCE. 

Average cost of Mayonnaise Sauce (about half a pint). 



INGREDIENTS. 



Salt and pepper j 

1 teaspoonful of French vinegar (" 

1 teaspoonful of mustard > 

1 teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar \ ^ 

1 gill of salad oil 6 

10* 
Tijie required, about 10 minutes. 



Now we will show you how to make Mayonnaise Sauce. 

1. We take two eggs and put the yolks in one basin and the whiles (which 
will not be wanted) into another basin. 

2. We take a wooden spoon and just stir the yolks enough to break them. 

3. We add to them a saltspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of pepper 
and a tablespoonful of 1 French vinegar. 

4. We take a bottle of salad oil, and, putting our thumb half over the 
top, pour in, drop by drop, the oil, stirring well with a whisk the whole time ; 
a gill of oil will be sufficient. 

ST. B. We might add a teaspoonful of ready-made mustard or tarragon vinegar 
if liked, stirring it in smoothly. 

5. The saitce is now ready for use. 

Now it is finished. 



It has been suggested that the volume ought to be Americanized 
by omitting some of the English receipts that are but little used in 
this country, and substituting others for special American dishes. 



PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION. i x 

But this suggestion involves a total misconception of the character of 
the work, which is valuable solely on account of the qualities it de- 
rives from the experience of the Training School. As American 
dishes are not used in England, there were of course no " lessons " 
in their preparation. Common receipts would be out of place in the 
following pages, and receipts for American dishes could not be prop- 
erly introduced until they had been assimilated to the plan and pecul- 
iarities of the work. There are many hundred good English receipts 
that will be sought in vain in the volume; and those who refer to it 
to find the last new things in American cookery will of course he 
disappointed. It is not a receipt-book, but a book to show how to 
use and improve receipts ; or, as stated in the English preface, it is 
not a dictionary of reference, but rather a grammar of processes. Its 
merit is that it offers an improved mode of kitchen practice ; and, as 
the principles and conditions of good cookery are everywhere the 
same, all that is characteristic of the volume is just as applicable and 
valuable in this country as in England. 

As the subject of cookery is in close relations with that of diet, I 
have aimed to increase the usefulness of the present work by appending 
a valuable essay upon " Diet in Health and Disease," the latest that 
has appeared, and by an eminent living authority on dietetical ques- 
tions. Dr. Chambers is the author of various able works on the uses 
and effects of food, and in this article, which he recently contributed 
to the new edition of the " Encyclopaedia Britannica," he has summed 
up in an admirable manner the leading facts and principles of modern 
dietetical science. Hints derived from this essay will often be found 
of much service in directing housekeepers as to what it is best to 
cook, and in the composition of meals in various circumstances, 
with reference to occupation, enjoyment, and health. 

E. A. Y. 

NEW YORK, August, 1878. 



PREFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION. 



I. THIS work has been written to explain in an easy way the first 
principles of good Cookery, and in the form of lessons is especially 
addressed to those who wish to carry them into practice. It has 
been the aim of the writer to leave no detail, however small, vaguely 
stated. It is taken for granted that the learner has no knowledge on 
the subject. The loose expressions, such as "a pinch," "a little," 
found in all cookery books, are therefore avoided, and precise quanti- 
ties are given. 

II. The work is not to be regarded as an exhaustive cookery book 
with numerous recipes. It aims to be rather a grammar than a dic- 
tionary. 

III. The lessons give a sufficient number of examples of cookery 
illustrating many degrees of cost : thus the rich may have a dish of 
curried rabbit for 3s. 8d., and the poor may have a dish of curried 
tripe for lOfd. 

IV. The work has been used and tested in the National Training 
School for Cookery since 18T5, and the instructors now employed in 
local schools throughout the country have been taught and practised 
by means of these lessons. 

Y. It has been found that it is most convenient to practise the 
lesson with the instructions in sight close at hand. An edition of 
each lesson has been printed on separate sheets of thick paper, for 
the use of students and teachers, which may be obtained at the Na- 
tional Training School for Cookery, or at any of the local schools. 

VI. The writer requests that the notice of any errors and omis- 
sions which are inevitable in a work of this kind may be communi- 
cated to R. O. C., at the National Training School for Cookery, Ex- 
hibition Road, London, S. W. 

R. O. 0. 

July, 187T. 



CONTENTS. 



PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION ..... i". 
PREFACE . . . . . . x. 

CHAPTER I. 
ON CLEANING RANGES, STOVES, AND KITCHEN UTENSILS . I 

Lesson 1. To Clean a Kitchen Kange or Stove, 1 ; 2. To Clean a Gas-Stove, 8 ; 
8. To Clean an Iron Saucepan, 3 ; 4. To Clean a Copper Stewpan, 4. 

CHAPTER II. 
THE COMMON PROCESSES OF COOKERY .... 5 

Lesson 1. Boasting, 5; 2. Boiling, 7; 3. Baking, 10; 4. Frying, and Clarifying 
Butter, Fat, and Dripping, 12. 

CHAPTER III. 
THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT . . . . . .15 

Lesson 1. Hashed Meat, 15; 2. Meat Fritters, 18; 3. Goblet Pie, 20; 4. Curry, 
22; 5. Shepherd's Pie, 23; 6. Fried Eissoles, 24; 7. Minced Meat, 26. 

CHAPTER IV. 



Lesson 1. Curry, 28; 2. Quenelles of Veal, 31; 3. Braised Fillets of Beef, 34; 
4. Mutton Cutlets, 36; 5. Chaudfroid of Chicken, 38; 6. Veal Cutlets, 39; 7. 
Fricassee of Chicken, 42; 8. Beef Olives, 45 ; 9. Irish Stew, 47 ; 10. Haricot Mut- 
ton, 48; 11. Croquettes of Chicken, 50; 12. Curried Rabbit, 52. 



Xll 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER V. 

PAGE 

STEWS ......... 54 

Lesson 1. A-b-Mode Beef, 54; 2. Brazilian Stew, 56; 3. Irish Stew, 57; 4. 
Stewed Brisket of Beef, 58. 

CHAPTER VI. 
TRIPE ......... 60 

Lesson 1. Curried Tripe, 60; 2. Tripe in Milk, 62 ; 3. Tripe a la Coutance, 63. 

CHAPTER VII. 

THE COOKING OF MEAT ...... 66 

Lesson 1. Braised Fillets of Veal, 66; 2. Koast Bullock's Heart, 68; 3. Cornish 
Pasties, 71; 4. Broiled Steak, 72; 5. Liver and Bacon, 73; 6. Meat Pie (Beef- 
Steak), 74; 7. Meat Pudding, 76; 8. Pig's Fry, 79; 9. Boiled Pig's Head (salted) 
with Onion Sauce, 80; 10. Pork Pie, 83; 11. Sausage Eolls, 85; 12. Sea He, 87; 
13. Sheep's Head, 88; 14. Stewed Steak, 92 ; 15. Toad-in-the-Hole, 94. 

CHAPTER VIII. 
COOKING POULTRY . . . . . . .95 

Lesson 1. Trussing a Fowl for Eoasting, 95 ; . Trus sing a Fowl for Boil- 



CHAPTER IX. 
STOCK AND SOUP ....... 104 

Lesson 1. Stock, 104; 2. Vegetable Stock, 106; 3. Clear Soup, 107; 4. Tapioca 
Cream, 111 ; 6. Bonne Femme Soup, 112 ; 6. Puree of Potatoes, 114 ; 7. Spring 
Vegetable Soup, 115; 8. Giblet Soup, 117; 9. Mock-Turtle Soup, 119; 10. Pot-au- 
feu, or Soup, 121; 11. Dr. Kitchener's Broth, 124; 12. Crowdie, 125; 13. Milk 
Soup, 126 ; 14. Cabbage Soup, 127 ; 15. Pea Soup, 128 ; 16. German Pea Soup, 129 ; 
17. Macaroni Soup, 180. 

CHAPTER X. 
FISH . . . * . . . . .132 

Lesson 1. Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce, 132; 2. Fish Pudding, 135; 3. 
Whitebait, 138 ; 4. Sole au Gratin, 139 ; 5. Fillets of Soles a la Maitre d'HStel, 141 ; 
6. Fried Soles, 142 ; 7. Lobster Cutlets, 144 ; 8. Boiled Codfish and Oyster Sauce, 
147 ; 9. Broiled Salmon and Tartare Sauce, 149 ; 10. Baked Mackerel or Herring, 
151 ; 11. Baked Stuffed Haddock, 152; 12. Fish Baked in Vinegar, 153 , 13. Fried 
Plaice, 154; 14. Boiled Fish, 155. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XI. 

PAQB 

VEGETABLES ........ 157 

Lesson 1. Boiled and Steamed Potatoes, 157 ; 2. Mashed, Saut6, and Baked 
Potatoes, 159 ; 3. Fried Potatoes, 161 ; 4. Potato Croquettes, 163 ; 5. Brussels 
Sprouts, 165 ; 6. Carrots and Turnips, 166 ; 7. Boiled Cauliflower and Cauliflower 
au Gratin, 167 ; 8. Spinach, 169 ; 9. Peas, 171 ; 10. Haricot Beans, 172 ; 11. Tur- 
nips, 173; 12. Carrots, 174 ; 13. Eice, 174 ; 14. Macaroni, 176; 15. Stewed Mac- 
aroni, 177. 

CHAPTER XII. 
SAUCES ........ 178 

Lesson 1. White Sauce, 178; 2. Brown Sauce, 179; 8. Mayonnaise Sauce, 180; 
4. Sauce Piquante, 181 ; 5. Dutch Sauce, 182. 



CHAPTER XIII. 
PASTRY ........ 183 

Lesson J. Puff-Paste, 183 ; 2. Short Crust, 186; 3. Genoese Pastry, 188; 4. 
Eough Puff-Paste, 189; 5. Suet Crust for Beef-Steak Pudding, 190; 6. Short 
Crust for Apple Turnovers and Apple Dumplings, 192 ; 7. Flaky Crust for Pies 
and Tarts, 195. 

CHAPTER XIV. 
PUDDINGS ........ 197 

Lesson 1. Cabinet Pudding, 197; 2. Lemon Podding, 198; 3. Apple Char- 
lotte, 199; 4. Pancakes, 201; 5. Eice Pudding, 202; 6. Custard Pudding, 203; 7. 
Plum Pudding and Wine or Brandy Sauce, 208 ; 8. Vennoise Pudding, 206 ; 9. 
Amber Pudding, 207 ; 10. Brown-Bread Pudding and German Sauce, 209 ; 11. 
Carrot Pudding, 210 ; 12. Alexandra Pudding, 211 ; 13. Blanc-Mange, 213 ; 14. 
Boiled Batter Pudding, 214; 15. Corn-Starch Pudding, 215; 16. Batter Pudding, 
216; 17. Corn-Starch Pudding, 217; 18. Eice Pudding, 217 ; 19. Curate's Pud- 
ding, 218; 20 Bread Pudding, 219 ; 21. Treacle Pudding, 220 ; 22. Plum Pudding, 
221 ; 23. Tapioca and Apples, 223 ; 24. Invalid Pudding, 224 ; 25. Semolina Pud- 
ding, 226; 26. Batter and Fruit, 226; 27. Cold Cabinet Pudding, 228; 28. Suet 
Pudding, 229; 29. Yorkshire Pudding, 230. 

CHAPTER XV. 
DUMPLINGS ........ 282 

Lesson 1. Hard Dumplings, 232; 2. Norfolk Dumplings, 288. 



XIV 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

PAGE 

JELLIES . . .234 

Lesson 1. Wine Jelly, 234 ; 2. Aspic Jelly, 237 ; 8. Iceland Moss, 241 ; 4. Milk 
Jelly, 242 ; 5. Ox-Foot Jelly, 244 ; 6. Apple Jelly, 246. 

CHAPTER XVII. 
CREAMS ........ 250 

Lesson 1. Vanilla Cream, 250 ; 2. Strawberry Cream, 252 ; 3. Charlotte Russe, 258. 

CHAPTER XVIII. 
SOUFFLES ........ 255 

Lesson 1. Vanilla Souffle, 255 ; 2. Cheese Souffle, 25S; 8. Potato Souffle, 260; 
4. Omelet Souffle, 261 ; 5. Savory Omelet, 263 , 6. Cheese Straws, 264. 

CHAPTER XIX. 
PICKLES ........ 266 

Lesson 1. Pickle for Meat, 266 ; 2. Pickled Cabbage, 26T. 

CHAPTER XX. 
CAKES . . . . . . . .269 

Lesson 1. Sultana Cake, 269; 2. German Pound Cake, 270; 3. Plain Cake, 
271; 4. Seed Cake, 272; 5. Plum Cake, 273; 6. Corn-Starch Cake, 274; 7. Dough 
Cake, 275 ; 8. Shrewsbury Cake, 276 ; 9. Hock Cake, 277 ; 10. Gingerbread Nuts, 
278. 

CHAPTER XXI. 
BUNS, BISCUITS, ROLLS, BREAD, ETC. . . . . . 279 

Lesson 1. Buns, 279; 2. Eice Buns, 281; 3. Milk Biscuits, 282; 4. Oatmeal 
Biscuits, 283; 5. Scones, 284; 6. Short Bread, 285; 7. Milk Eolls, 285; 8. York- 
shire Tea-Cakes, 286 ; 9. Bread, 287 ; 10. Unfermented Bread, 289. 

CHAPTER XXH. 
SICK-ROOM COOKERY ....... 291 

Lesson 1. Chicken Panada, 291 ; 2. Beef Essence, 292 ; 8. Cream of Barley, 
293 ; 4. A Cup of Arrow-Boot and Arrow-Boot Pudding, 294 ; 5. Rice- Water, 
i95; 6. Barley- Water, 296; 7. Apple- Water, 297 ; 8. Lemonade, 298 ; 9. Toast 



CONTENTS. xy 

PAQB 

and Water, 298; 10. Gruel, 299; 11. White- Wine Whey, or Treacle Posset, 300 ; 
12. Bran Tea, 300; 13. Mutton Broth, 301 ; 14. Mutton Broth, 303 ; 15. Beef Tea, 
804; 16. Beef Tea, 305; 17. Liebig's Quick Beef Tea, 806 ; 18. Savory Custard, 807. 

CHAPTER XXIII. 
CANNED MEATS ....... 308 

Lesson 1. Mulligatawny, 809 ; 2. Brown Pur6e, 811 ; 3. Irish Stew, 312 ; 4. Sau- 
eage Rolls, 313; 5. Curried Rabbit, 315 ; 6. Meat Pie, 317; 7. Fricassee of Mutton, 
318; 8. Rissoles, 320 ; 9. Savory Hash, 322 ; 10. Mince Meat, 824. 

DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE ..... 329 

LIST OF UTENSILS, MATERIALS, ETC. . . . . .373 

INDEX . 375 



LESSONS IN COOKEEY. 



CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTORY. 

ON CLEANING RANGES, STOVES, AND KITCHEN 
UTENSILS. 

LESSON FIRST. 
TO CLEAN A KITCHEN RANGE OR STOVE. 

1. Dump the grate, and, with the poker, carefully re- 
move the clinkers that adhere to the fire-brick. 

2. Shovel into a scuttle the ashes, clinkers, and cinders 
or partially-burned coal. 

N. B. These should be sifted. Throw away the ashes and clinkers, but 
save the cinders, to use in kindling fires. 

3. Take a brush or wing, and sweep down all the soot 
from the flues and oven. 

N. B. This should be done every day, when bituminous coal is burned ; 
but if anthracite coal is used, the flues will not need cleaning oftener 
than once in two weeks. 1 Wood-stoves should be cleaned as often as 
once a week. 

1 Directions for keeping ranges and stoves in order are usually furnished 
by the dealer ; and as they vary with the construction, they may be appealed 
to for more specific instructions. 



2 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

4. Mix some stove-polish in an earthen dish, with 
enough water to make it into a smooth liquid. 

5. Dip the blacking-brush in the mixture, and cover 
with it the whole of the range, working from the top 
downward. 

6. When the blacking is dry, rub it all over with a dry 
brush. 

7. Then take another brush and polish the range all 
over, so as to make it quite bright. 

8. Now sweep the soot and dust from the stove and the 
hearth. 

9. Steel handles and bolts may be polished by rubbing 
with emery-paper, but brass handles and bolts should be 
polished with both brick-dust and a leather. . 

10. To clean the slate or limestone hearth in front of the 
range, get a flannel and a pail of hot water; put in it 
some soda, and wash the hearth all over. 

11. Then wring the flannel out in hot water and smooth 
the hearth over, rubbing lightly all in one direction. 

12. Black-lead and polish the inside of the fender in the 
same way as you did the range, and brighten the rim of it 
with emery-paper. 

TO KINDLE A FIKE. 

1. Place a few sifted cinders at the bottom of the 
grate. 

2. Then put in some crumpled paper and arrange sticks 
over it, laying them across each other. For kindling an- 
thracite coal, hard wood should be added. Charcoal is 
sometimes used in place of wood, and is better, when it 
can be afforded. 

3. Place a few cinders above the wood, and light the 
paper at the bottom. 



CLEANING KITCHEN UTENSILS. 3 

4. When the wood is well on fire, put on a small quan- 
tity of coal, and wait till it is thoroughly heated and be- 
ginning to burn before more is added. 



LESSON SECOND. 
TO CLEAN A GAS-STOVE. 

1. Lift out the rest at the top. 

2. Wash the top of the stove and the rest with a flan- 
nel dipped in hot water and soda, so as to remove all grease 
and dirt ; then wring out the flannel, and partially dry the 
top of the stove. 

3. Now cover with stove-blacking, and polish in the 
same way as the kitchen range. 

N. B. Be careful not to stop up the gas-holes with the stove-polish. 

4. Sweep away the soot and dust, and put the rest back 
over the stove. 

LESSON THIRD 
TO CLEAN AN IRON SAUCEPAN. 

1. Wash the saucepan well in hot water and soda. 

N. B. All the black should be removed from the outside and bottom. 

2. Soap the palm of one hand, or a brush, and rub the 
inside of the saucepan. 

N. B. In washing any greasy utensil, it is best, if possible, to use the 
hand instead of a flannel, as the latter retains the grease, and so 
keeps putting the grease on again, instead of rubbing it off. 

3. Mix some sand and powdered soda together, and 
then dip the soaped hand or brush into it, and rub the in- 
side of the saucepan until it is quite clean and bright. 



LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

4. JSTow rinse it in water and dry it with a cloth. 

5. Clean the lid in the same way. 

N. B. A white enameled stewpan is cleansed in the same way. Great 
care should be taken to remove all the stains off the white enamel 
inside. 

N. B. Salt might be mixed with the sand, and used to remove the 
stains from the enamel. 



LESSON FOURTH. 
TO CLEAN A COPPER STEWPAN. 

1. Mix some sand and salt together on a plate half the 
quantity of salt to that of sand. 

2. Wash the stewpan well in hot water and soda. 

3. Soap the hand, or a brush, dip it in the salt and sand, 
and rub the inside of the pan until all stains are removed 
and it has become clean and bright. 

4. Rinse it out well in the water, dry the inside quickly, 
and then turn over the pan and clean the copper outside. 

5. Rub it in the same way with a soaped hand, or a 
brush dipped in sand and salt. 

N". B. If there are many stains on it, an old half lemon, or vinegar, 

might be used to remove them. 
N. B. Only the copper part should be cleaned with lemon or vinegar. 

6. Now rinse it again thoroughly, and dry it quickly 
with a cloth. 



CHAPTER II. 
ROASTING, BOILING, BAKING, FRYING. 



LESSON PIEST. 
BOASTING. 

To Roast Meat at an open range : 

1. Take your joint say a leg of mutton. 

2. See that it is quite clean, and, if necessary, scrape it 
with a knife, and wipe it over with a clean cloth. 

N. B. As a rule, meat should not be washed in water, as it takes 
some of the goodness out. If meat has been kept some time, and 
is not quite fresh, then you might wash it with a little vinegar and 
water, but it must be well wiped afterward. 

3. With a sharp knife cut off the knuckle-bone from 
the leg of mutton. 

N. B. Put aside the knuckle-bone. It can be used with beef for 
beef-tea, or be put in the stock-pot ; or the trimmings and one pint 
of water will make gravy for your joint when done, allowing it to 
boil while the joint is roasting. 

4. Trim off the piece of flank^ and remove the thick 
piece of skin from the part where the leg joins the loin. 



6 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

(These trimmings must be put aside, as they can be used 
for other purposes.) 

5. Now weigh the leg of mutton, so as to find out how 
long it will take to roast it, as a quarter of an hour is 
allowed for each pound-weight, and one quarter of an hour 
besides. 

N. B. When you have a joint without bone, such as rolled ribs of beef 
or topside of beef, allow twenty minutes to each pound, as it is all 
solid meat. 

6. Take the leg of mutton, which weighs say seven 
pounds, and will therefore require two hours to roast. 

7. Put the tin oven * in front of the fire. 

8. See that the dripping-pan is in the oven with the 
dripping-ladle. 

9. Take the hook of the oven, or of the roasting-jack, 
if you have one, and pass it through the knuckle-end of 
the leg. 

10. Wind up the jack with the key before you put the 
joint on, so as to make it twist the meat round. 

11. Put the joint close to the fire for the first five 
minutes. 

12. After that time, draw it a little back, or it will cook 
too quickly, and become burnt and driedv 

N. B. Meat that is frozen must be placed some way from the fire at 
first, and then drawn gradually toward it, as it must thaw slowly, or 
it may become tough. 

1 In this country, tin ovens placed before the fire take the place of the 
English screen and roasting-jack. These ovens are made in various ways, 
but they all have a door at the back for basting, a hook in the centre from 
which the meat is suspended, and a dripping-pan in the bottom. A French 
roasting-jack may take the place of the simple hook, and with this you may 
proceed with the roasting according to the directions given above. There 
are stoves and ranges so made that tin ovens for roasting can be securely 
fastened to the front, and taken away when not in use. 



ROASTING AND BOILING. 7 

13. Baste the joint every five minutes with the drip- 
pings that run from it into the pan, using the dripping- 
ladle. 

14. Let it roast for two hours, as its weight is seven 
pounds. 

15. Just before you dish up the joint, you must sprinkle 
about a saltspoonful of salt over, and then baste it well. 

16. Warm a large dish. 

17. Take the hook of the jack and place the joint on 
the hot dish, and draw out the hook. 

18. Pour about a gill of hot stock into the dish. (This 
makes the gravy, and when the joint is cut, the juices 
from the meat will add to it.) 

19. Cut a piece of demy-paper like a fringe, and put it 
round the end of the knuckle-bone. 

N. B. The dripping in the pan should be poured into a basin, and 
when it is cold, there will be under the crust of dripping a good 
gravy. When the dripping is required for use, it must be carefully 
removed from the top of the gravy and clarified (see Lesson on 
" Frying "). Nearly all joints can be roasted in this way. Attention 
should be paid to the rules given above for joints of meat without 
bone. 



LESSON SECOND. 
BOILING. 

To Boil Meat: 

1. Give attention to the fire, and build it up gradu- 
ally with small pieces of coal, so as to make it burn clear 
and bright. 

2. You must not have a smoky fire for boiling, or the 
meat will get smoked. Start with a good fire, and keep 
it up by adding occasionally small coal, and so prevent 
smoke as much as possible. 

N. B. You do not require such a clear, bright fire as for roasting. 
2 



8 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

3. Take a saucepan sufficiently large to hold the joint 
to be cooked. 

4. Fill the saucepan almost full of cold water, and put 
it on the fire to warm. 

N. B. Salt should always be added to the water in the saucepan to 
make the water taste, unless the meat to be cooked is already 
salted, in which case it should be omitted. 

5. Now take the joint, say, for example, a piece of the 
silver-side of beef, salted. 

6. See that it is quite clean, and, if necessary, scrape 
it with a knife, and wipe it over with a clean cloth. 

N. B. Meat should not, as a rule, be washed in water, as it takes some 
of the goodness out. Meat that has been kept some time, and is 
not quite fresh, might be washed with vinegar and water, but it 
must be well wiped afterward. 

N. B. Salt meat must not be washed with vinegar and water, but only 
with salt and water. 

7. Now weigh the piece of salt beef, so as to find out 
how long it will take to boil, as ten minutes .are allowed 
for each pound of 'meat. 

N. B. This rule refers to the boiling of all meat except pork, which 
requires fifteen minutes to each pound of meat. 

A. In boiling fresh meat to be eaten, the joint should be first 
plunged into boiling water, in order that the albumen on the outside 
of the joint may become hardened, and so prevent the escape of the 
juices of the meat. 

B. The temperature of the water should then be lowered gradually 
(by adding a small quantity of cold water and drawing the sauce- 
pan to the side of the fire), and the meat allowed to simmer gently, 
or it will become tough. 

C. In boiling meat for the purpose of making soup, the meat should 
be put into cold water, in order to extract all the goodness from it. 

D. The water should be brought gradually to boiling point, then 
moved to the side of the fire, and left to simmer gently for some 
length of time. 



BOILING. 9 

N. B. Salt meat must be put into loarm ivatcr, so as to extract a little 
of the salt before the pores of the skin are closed up. If the meat 
were" put into boiling water, the pores of the skin would be closed, 
and the meat would be hardened by the salt not being allowed to 
escape. 

8. When the water in the saucepan is warm, take the 
"beef, which weighs say eight pounds (it will therefore 
take about one hour and twenty minutes), and put it in 
the saucepan. There should be only just enough water to 
cover the joint. 

9. Let the water just boil up, and then move the 
saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently 
for the remainder of the time. 

10. As soon as the water comes to the boil, you must 
take a large spoon and skim it carefully. 

N. B. The scum should be skimmed off directly it rises, or it will boil 
down again in the meat and spoil it. Scum is the impurity which 
rises from the meat. 

N. B. Be very careful not to let the meat boil, or it will be hardened 
and tough. 

11. When the meat is sufficiently cooked, take it care- 
fully out of the saucepan, and put it on a hot dish for 
serving. Pour about a gill of the liquor (in which it was 
boiled) round the joint. (This makes the gravy, and 
when the joint is cut, the juices from the meat will add 
to it.) 

N. B. The liquor from boiled meat can always be used for different 
purposes, and should therefore never be thrown away, but poured 
into a clean basin and put aside to cool. The fat should be carefully 
removed from the top of the liquor while it is cold, before being 
used. Salt liquor is often used for making pea-soup. 



10 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON THIRD. 
BAKING MEAT, BKEAD, PASTRY, ETC. 

To Bake Meat : 

1. You must have a good fire, and keep it up, adding 
by degrees small pieces of coal, as the oven is required to 
be very hot. 

N. B. If it is a close range with which you are dealing, you should 
pull out the damper placed over the oven, in order to draw all the 
heat of the fire toward the oven. The ventilator x of the oven 
should be closed. 

N. B. In kitchen stoves there is usually either a handle at the top 
of the oven, to be pulled out for opening the ventilator, or a slide- 
ventilator at the bottom. 

2. Test the heat of the oven by the thermometer, 
which is fixed in the door of the oven. The heat should 
rise to 240 Fahr. 

3. See that the joint is clean, as directed in the Les- 
son on " Roasting," Note 2. Weigh it, to find out how 
long it will take to bake, as ten minutes are allowed foi 
each pound of weight. 

N. B. When you have a joint without bone, you must allow about fif- 
teen minutes to each pound of weight, as it is solid meat. 

4. Take the hot-water tin on which the stand for the 
meat is placed, lift up the upper tin or tray, and fill the 

1 As a rule, American ranges and stoves are not supplied with a separate 
arrangement for ventilating the ovens. The heat is usually controlled by 
opening and closing the damper in front of the fire. Ability to manage a 
range or stove in this respect comes only with experience. But in all our 
generally-approved ranges and stoves a competent cook can obtain well- 
baked meat, such as is described in this lesson, by making the oven very hot 
at first, and after a little, partially or wholly closing the damper, to lessen 
combustion. 



BAKING MEAT. 11 

under tin half full of warm water ; then fit on the upper 
tin. 

N. B. In one corner of the upper tin is a small hole for the escape of 
steam. The water must only just reach this hole, and not come 
into it. 

N. B. The water is placed in the tin to prevent the tin and the meat 
from getting burnt, and so causing a disagreeable smell. 

5. Place the stand on the hot-water tin, to raise the 
joint and prevent it from standing in its own dripping, 
which would sodden and spoil the meat. 

6. ISTow take the joint, which weighs say seven pounds 
(it will, therefore, take one hour and ten minutes to lake), 
and put it on the stand. Dredge flour over it. 

7. Put the tin, with the meat, in the oven. The oven 
should be kept very hot for the first five minutes, in order 
to form a brown crust on the outside of the joint, to keep 
in the juices of the meat ; after that time the ventilator 
of the oven should be opened, so as to allow the steam to 
escape, or the meat would get sodden ed. 

N. B. Meat that is frozen must be gradually warmed to thaw it, be- 
fore shutting it up in the hot oven, or it will be tough. 

8. Baste the joint every fifteen minutes with the 
drippings that run from the meat into the pan, using the 
dripping-ladle. 

N. B. Joints that are not very fat must be even more frequently 
basted, or they will burn. If there is not enough dripping from 
the meat, a little extra dripping should be put in the pan. 

N. B. Joints that have no fat should be covered with a piece of 
whity-brown paper which has been spread with butter or dripping ; 
it will prevent the meat catching too quickly. 

9. Turn the joint over occasionally, as the upper side 
will brown quicker than the under. 



12 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

N. B. Potatoes, washed and peeled, or a small suet or dripping and 
flour pudding (see " Puddings," Lesson 28), or a Yorkshire pudding 
(see " Puddings," Lesson 29), might be baked under the meat ; but 
they should be put in only half an -hour before the meat is finished. 

10. Just before you dish up the joint, sprinkle a salt- 
spoonful of salt over it, and then baste it well. 

11. Serve the joint on a hot dish (as described in the Les- 
son on " Koasting," Note 18), and act with regard to the 
dripping according to N. B. after Note 19. 

N. B. Pastry or bread, etc., should not be baked in the oven at the 
same time as the meat, for the steam would prevent their baking 
properly. For baking small patties or tartlets made of puff-paste, 
the heat of the oven should rise to 300 Fahr. For meat-pies, tarts, 
etc., the heat should rise to 280, and be reduced, after a quarter 
of an hour, to 220. 



LESSON FOURTH. 
FETING, AND THE CLARIFYING OF BUTTEE, FAT, AND DEIPPING. 

The principles of Frying : 

1. You must have a clear, bright fire. 

N. B. Be very careful it is not smoky. 

2. Be careful that the utensil used is very clean ; for if 
there is anything sticking at the bottom of the pan, it will 
quickly catch or burn, and so spoil the contents. 

3. Clarify all fat (not lard ), dripping ', and butter be- 
fore using them, to remove the impurities from the former, 
and the buttermilk and other watery substance from the 
latter. 

N.B. Fat need not be clarified more than once. After using it, 
always pour it off carefully in a basin, and, when it is cold, remove 
the sediment from the bottom of the cake vifat. Sutler must be 
clarified each time it is used, to remove all watery substances. 



FRYING AND CLARIFYING. 13 

4. You must have the fat very hot ; good frying de- 
pends on the fat being properly heated. 

5. You should test the heat of the fat by a frimome- 
ter, if possible. The heat should rise to 345 Fahr. for 
ordinary frying, and 400 for whitebait. 

N. B. If there is no frimometer, the heat of the fat may be tested by 
the look as fat gets quite still and begins to smoke when it is 
very hot or by throwing in a small piece of crumb of bread ; and 
if it fries directly a light brown, the fat is ready for use. 

6. Use a deep pan, with plenty of fat, so that anything 
put in may be entirely covered. 

7. You can fry bacon in its own fat ; it only requires 
watching and turning till it is done (see Lesson on " Liver 
and Bacon," from Note 1 to Note 5). 

8. You may fry chops or steaks, or slices of meat, in 
an ounce of either clarified dripping or lutter. 

9. Melt the fat first, but it does not require to be 
heated. 

10. Be watchful, when the meat is frying, not to allow 
it to burn ; you should turn it over occasionally. 

N. B. If there is a gridiron, it is much better to broil chops and 
steaks, as it prevents their being greasy (see Lesson on a " Broiled 
Steak "). For frying Fish, see " Fish," Lessons Nos. 3, 6, 7, and 
1 3. For frying Meat, Rissoles, Potatoes, etc., see " Cooked Meat," 
Lessons Nos. 2 and 6 ; "Australian Meat," Lesson No. 8 ; " Entrees," 
Lessons Nos. 4 and 1 1 ; and " Vegetables," Lessons Nos. 3 and 4. 

To render down or clarify fat : 

1. Take any scraps of cooked or uncooked fat, and cut 
them up in small pieces. 

2. Put the pieces in an old but clean saucepan, and 
pour in just enough cold water to cover them. 

3. Put the saucepan on the fire, and keep it boiling ; 



14 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

it will take about an hour. The lid should be off the 
saucepan. 

4. Stir the fat occasionally, to prevent it from burning, 
or sticking to the bottom of the saucepan. 

5. When the water has evaporated, and the pieces of 
fat are cooked, pour the melted fat through an old sieve 
into a basin, and, when cold, it can be used for all frying 
purposes, instead of lard. 

To clarify dripping : 

1. Put the dripping in the saucepan, and put it on the 
fire to boil. 

2. When it boils, pour it into a basin, in which there 
should be half a pint of cold water. 

3. When the dripping is cold, take a knife and cut 
round the edge, so as to take out the cake oj dripping. 

4 Scrape off all the sediment that will be found on the 
bottom of the cake, and wipe it dry with a cloth. 

To clarify butter : 

1. Put the quantity of butter required for present use 
in a small saucepan, and put it on the fire and let it boil. 

2. When the butter has boiled, take a spoon and re- 
move the white scum from the top. 

3. Then pour the clear butter carefully into the pan for 
use, as below the butter will be a little more watery sub- 
stance. 



CHAPTER III. 
THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 



LESSON FIRST. 
HASHED MEAT. 1 

Ingredients. One pound of scraps of cold meat. Two small onions. One- 
half a turnip. One bunch of herbs. 2 About a tablespoonful of flour. 
One dessertspoonful of mushroom catsup. Sippets of bread. Salt and 
pepper. Half an ounce of butter. 

Time required, about two hours ; or, if the stock for the gravy is already 
made, then only half an hour. 

To Hash Cold Meat : 

1. Take any remains of cold meat, cut off all the meat 
from the bone, and cut it into thin slices. 

2. Chop the bone in pieces, and put them into a sauce- 
pan. 

3. Peel one onion, and cut it in quarters. 

1 The food called " Hash " in this -country is more like the English minced 
meat (see Lesson No. 7, on " Re-cooked Meat "). 

2 This means a small handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme or marjoram, 
one or both, and one bay-leaf. The parsley should be washed, the dried 
herbs placed in the midst of it, and the ends of the parsley should be folded 
around them, making a bunch about three inches long. Tie with a string, 
and trim away any leaves that might break off if left. This is known among 
cooks as a " bouquet garni," or " faggot." 



16 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

4. Wash and scrape one carrot, and cut it in quarters. 

5. Peel half a turnip, and cut it in half. 

6. Wash a sprig of parsley, and dry it on a cloth. 

7. Take one 'bay-leaf, one sprig of marjoram and 
thyme, and the parsley, and tie them tightly together with 
a piece of string. 

8. Put the herbs and vegetables into the saucepan with 
the bones, and cover them with cold water. 

9. Put the saucepan on the fire, and, when it boils, add 
pepper and salt, according to taste. 

10. Now put the lid on, and move the saucepan to 
the side of the fire, to stew gently for one hour, or 
one hour and a half ; watch it, and skim it occasion- 
ally. 

11. Take a small onion, peel it, and cut it in slices. 

12. Put half an ounce of butter into a frying-pan. 

13. Put the pan on the fire, and, when the butter 
is melted, add the sliced onion, and let it fry a nice 
brown. 

14. Shake the pan occasionally, to prevent the slices of 
onion from sticking to the bottom of the pan and burning. 

15. When the onion is sufficiently browned, strain off 
the butter, and put the onion on to a plate. 

16. Wheti the bones have stewed long enough, strain off 
the liquor into a basin. 

17. Wash out the saucepan, and pour back the liquor. 

18. Put a tablespoonful of flour into a small basin. 

19. Add a tablespoonful of the liquor to the flour, and 
stir it into a smooth paste. 

20. Stir this paste gradually into the liquor in the sauce- 
pan. 

21. Add the browned onion and a dessertspoonful of 
mushroom catsup. 



THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 17 

22. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir the sauce until 
it boils and thickens. 

23. Let it boil for two or three minutes, until the flour 
is cooked. 

N. B. Be careful to stir the sauce smoothly while it boils, or it will 
be lumpy. 

24. Then move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and, 
when it is off the boil, lay in the pieces of meat, to warm 
through. 

N". B. Do not let the sauce boil while the meat is in it, or the meat 
will get hard and tough. 

25. Cut a thin slice of "bread into square pieces. 

26. Cut these square pieces in half, cornerwise, making 
the pieces into triangles. 

27. Put one ounce of clarified dripping (see Lesson on 
" Frying") in a frying-pan, to melt. 

28. When the dripping is quite hot, put in the sippets 
of toead, and let them fry a light brown. 

29. Turn them, so that they will get browned on each 
side. 

30. Put a piece of kitchen-paper * on a plate, and, when 
the sippets are fried, turn them on to the paper to drain 
off the grease. 

N. B. If liked, the bread could be toasted before the fire, instead of 
fried ; in which case it should be cut into sippets after it is toasted. 

31. For serving, put the slices of meat on a hot dish in 
the centre, strain the sauce over them, and put the sippets 
of oread round the edge of the dish. 

1 Kitchen-paper is unsized white paper, such as is used for wall-paper. It 
is common in English kitchens, and very convenient for many purposes. 



18 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON SECOND. 
MEAT FRITTERS. 

Ingredients. Slices of cold meat. Six ounces of flour. One tablespoon- 
ful of salad oil. Two eggs. Dripping for frying. 

Time required, about half an hour (and one hour for the baiter to rise). 

To make " Meat Fritters " i. e., meat fried in batter : 

1. Put six ounces of flour and half a salirspoonful of 
salt into a basin. 

2. Add a tablespoonful of salad oil y and mix the flour 
into a smooth paste. 

N. B. Be careful that the oil is sweet. One ounce of melted butter 
can be used instead. 

3. Now stir in smoothly, by degrees, half a pint of 
tepid water. Be careful that there are no lumps. 

4. Break two eggs ; put the whites on a plate. (The 
yolks should be put in a cup, as they will not be required 
for present use.) 

5. Sprinkle a quarter of a salt-spoonful of salt over the 
whites of the eggs, and whip them to a stiff froth with a 
knife. 

6. Stir the whipped whites of the eggs lightly into the 
latter. 

N. B. In winter, clean snow might be used in the batter, instead of 
the whites of eggs. 

N. B. This batter might be made without the whites of eggs, in 
which case'it should be mixed with half a pint of beer, instead of 
the water ; but the batter made with beer will not rise as much as 
when eggs are used. 

N. B. The beer will not taste after the batter is fried. 



THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 19 

7. Stand the batter aside for one hour to rise, or until 
required for frying but it should not stand longer than 
two hours. 

8. Put half a pound of clarified dripping (see Lesson 
on " Frying " ) into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to 
heat. 

9. Take some cold meat, and cut it up into thin slices. 

N. B. Cold boiled or roast pork, or boiled bacon, is very nice fried 
in batter. 

10. "When the batter has risen, and the fritters are re- 
quired for use, stir the batter lightly with a spoon, so as to 
be sure that there are no lumps settled at the bottom. 

11. When the dripping is quite hot and smoking, take 
the slices of meat, dip them in the latter so as to quite 
cover them, and then drop them into the hot fat. 

N. B. Do not put in too many slices at a time, as they should not 
touch each other. 

12. Turn them over, so that they will fry to a nice 
brown on both sides. 

13. Put a piece of kitchen-paper on a plate. 

14. As the fritters are fried, take them carefully out of 
the fat with a perforated spoon, and put them on the paper, 
to drain off the grease. 

N. B. Be careful to skim the fat from time to time, or the little loose 
pieces of batter will burn, and spoil the fat. 

N. B. Slices of apple or orange can be fried in this batter in the 
same way, only that the batter should be sweetened, and sugar 
sprinkled over the fritters when they are fried. 

N. B. Fish can be fried in batter the same way, only that the batter 
is usually made with beer, instead of white of egg. 

15. For serving, turn the fritters on to a hot dish. 



20 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON THIRD. 
GOBLET PIE. 

Ingredients. Any scraps of cold meat. Two tablespoonfuls of chopped 
suet, two of moist sugar, two of currants, two of plums, and two of 
chopped apples. A quarter of a pound of flour. A quarter of a tea- 
spoonful of baking-powder. One ounce of dripping. 

Time required, about three-quarters of an hour. 

To make "Goblet Pie": 

1. Take any scraps of cold meat (even the smallest 
scraps, that would not do for anything else), put them 
on a board, 1 and chop them up as finely as possible. 
(There should be about two tablespoonfuls of chopped 
meat.} 

2. Take about two ounces of suet, put it on a board, 
cut away the skin, and chop it up very finely. (There 
should be about two tablespoonfuls.) 

3. Peel two small apples, cut out the core, and chop 
them up finely. (There should be about two tablespoon- 
fuls.) 

4. Take two tablespoonfuls of plums, stone them, and 
chop them in small pieces. 

5. "Wash two tablespoonfuls of currants, dry them in 
a cloth, and pick them over. 

6. Put all" these ingredients into a basin with two table- 
spoonfuls of moist sugar, and mix them all well together 
with a spoon. 

1 When only small quantities of things are to be made fine, it is very con- 
venient to place them upon a board, and, taking a sharp knife, hold down 
the free end of the blade with the left hand, and chop by moving the handle 
rapidly up and down with the right hand. Some cooks chop in this way 
upon the table, but a board is preferable. 



THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 21 

7. Turn the mixture into a small pie-dish. 

8. Put a quarter of a pound of flour into a basin, and 
mix into it a few grains of salt, and a quarter of a tea- 
spoonful of baking-powder. 

9. Take one ounce of clarified dripping, and rub it 
well and lightly into the flour with your hands, until it 
resembles sifted ^read-crumbs. 

10. Add to it sufficient water to mix it into a stiff paste. 

11. Flour a board, and turn the paste out on it. 

12. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out the paste to 
the shape of the pie-dish, only a little larger, and to about 
a quarter of an inch in thickness. 

13. Wet the edge of the pie-dish with water. 

14. Take a knife, dip it in flour ^ and cut a strip of the 
paste the width of the edge of the pie-dish, and place it 
round the edge of the dish. 

15. Cut this strip of paste from round the edge of the 
paste, leaving the centre piece rather larger than the top 
of the pie-dish. 

16. Wet the edge of the paste with water. 

17. Take the remaining piece of paste and place it over 
the pie-dish, pressing the edges together with your thumb. 

N. B. Be very careful not to break the paste. 

18. Take a knife, dip it in flour, and trim off all the 
rough edges of fas paste round the edge of the dish. 

19. Take a knife, and with the back of the blade make 
little notches in the edge of the paste, pressing the paste 
firmly with your thumb, to keep it in its proper place. 

20. Make a little hole with the knife in the centre of 
the pie, to let the steam out while the pie is baking. 

21. Put the pie into the oven (the heat should rise to 
220), to bake for half an hour. 



22 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON FOURTH. 
CURRY. 

Ingredients. Scraps of cold meat. Two ounces of clarified dripping, or 
butter. Two apples. One onion. One dessertspoonful of curry-powder. 
Salt. 

Time required, about three-quarters of an hour. 

To make a "Curry": 

1. Put two ounces of clarified dripping, or butter, into 
a saucepan, and put it on the fire to heat. 

2. Take one onion, peel it, put it on a board, and chop 
it up as finely as possible. 

3. When the dripping is quite hot, put in the chopped 
onion to brown. Be careful it does not burn. 

4. Shake the saucepan occasionally, to prevent the 
onion from sticking to the bottom. 

5. Take the cold meat and cut it up into small pieces. 

6. Peel one small apple, take out the core, and chop it 
up very finely on a board. 

7. When the onion is sufficiently brown, strain it off, 
and pour the dripping back into the saucepan. 

N. B. Put the browned onion on a plate. 

8. Now put the pieces of cold meat into the saucepan, 
and let them brown on both sides. 

9. Add one dessertspoonful of curry -powder, the 
chopped apple, and a little salt, according to taste. 

10. Now pour in half a pint of cold water, and put 
back the lyrowned onion. 

N. B. If the onion had been left in while the meat was browning, it 
would have got burnt. 

11. Stir smoothly and carefully until it boils, and then 
move it to the side of the fire, to simmer for half an hour. 



THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 23 

12. The lid should be off the saucepan, as the sauce is 
to reduce. 1 

13. For serving, we take the meat out of the saucepan, 
and put it on a hot dish and pour the sauce over it. 

N. B. Boiled rice should be served with the Curry (see "Vegeta- 
bles," Lesson 13). 



LESSON FIETH. 

PHERD'S ] 

Ingredients. Scraps of cold meat. One small onion. Pepper and salt. 

One and a half pound of potatoes. One ounce of butter. One-half a 

gill of milk. 
Time required, about an hour and a half. 

To make " Shepherd's Pie " : 

1. Take one and a half pound of potatoes, wash them, 
and boil them as described (see "Vegetables," Lesson 
Fo. 1). 

N. B. This quantity of potato will cover a quart pie-dish. 
N. B. Any remains of cold potatoes should be used, instead of boiling 
fresh ones. 

2. Put one ounce of butter and half a gill of milk into 
a saucepan, and put it on the fire to boil. 

3. Put the boiled potatoes into another saucepan, and 
mash them up with a fork or spoon. 

4. When the milk boils, pour it into the mashed pota- 
toes, and stir them into a smooth paste. 

5. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let the potatoes 
just boil. Be careful they do not burn. 

6. Take any scraps of cold meat, cut them in small 
pieces, and put them in a pie-dish in layers. 

1 To reduce a sauce, is to boil it down to the requisite thickness. 



24 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

7. If there is not much fat with the meat, mix with 
it a few slices of pork-fat. 

8. Take one small onion, peel it, and chop it up as 
finely as possible on a board. 

9. Sprinkle each layer of meat with plenty of pepper 
and salt, and a little of the chopped onion. 

10. Fill the dish half full of cold water. 

N. B. If there is any cold gravy, it would, of course, be better than 

the water. 
N. B. The pie-dish should be quite full of meat, and rather heaped 

in the centre, so as to raise the crust of potato. 

11. Take the mashed potato and put it over the top of 
the meat, smoothing it over neatly with a knife. 

12. Take a fork, and mark all over the top of the potato. 

N. B. If liked, the mashed potato might be mixed with half its weight 
of flour into a dough, to make a more substantial crust ; it must 
then be rolled out with a rolling-pin, like pastry. 

13. Put the pie-dish into the oven, or into a tin oven 
in front of the fire, for half an hour, to brown the crust 
of potato and warm the meat through. 



LESSON SIXTH. 
FKIED KISSOLES. 

Ingredients. Scraps of cold meat, two ounces. Two tablespoonfuls of 
chopped suet ; two of bread-crumbs ; two of chopped parsley. One 
tablespoonful of chopped marjoram and thyme. Two eggs. Crumb of 
bread. Salt and pepper. Use of dripping for frying. (This quantity 
makes about eight.) 

Time required, about half an hour. 

To make " Rissoles " with cold meat : 
1. Put about half-pound of clarified dripping into a 
saucepan, and put it on the fire to heat. 



THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 25 

2. Take some scraps of cold meat, and chop them up 
as finely as possible on a board. When chopped, there 
should be about two tablespoonfuls. 

3. Cut away the skin from two ounces of suet, put it 
on a board, and chop it up as finely as possible. There 
should be two tablespoonfuls. 

4. Grate some crumbs of bread on to a piece of paper. 

N. B. More than tioo tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs will be required, 
as the rissoles should be dipped in bread-crumbs before they are 
fried. 

5. Wash two or three sprigs of parsley, and dry it in 
a cloth. 

6. Chop it up finely on a board. There should be two 
tablespoonfuls. 

7. Take a sprig of marjoram and a sprig of thyme, 
take away the stalks, and rub the leaves through a strainer, 
or chop them up finely on a board. 

N. B. The stalks of the Jierbs are bitter to the taste, and can therefore 
only be used for flavoring, and not for eating. 

8. Put the meat, suet, and two tablespoonfuls of bread- 
crumbs, into a basin, and mix them together. 

9. Now add the herbs and a teaspoonful of salt. 

N. B. If liked, a little chopped onion, or chopped lemon-peel, might 
be added. 

10. Break one egg into the basin, and mix all together 
lightly. 

11. Take a board, flour it, and turn the mixture on 
to it. 

12. Flour your hands, to prevent the mixture from 
sticking. 

13. Form the 'mixture into little balls, and sprinkle a 
little flour over them. 



26 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

14. Break an egg on to a plate, and beat it very slightly 
with a knife. 

15. Put the balls into the egg, and egg them well all 
over. 

16. JSTow put them into the bread-crumbs, and cover 
them well, but not too thickly. 

N. B. Be careful to finger them as little as possible. 

17. Put the rissoles into a fry ing-basket, a few at a time, 
as they must not touch each other. 

18. When the/b in the saucepan is quite hot and smok- 
ing, put in the frying-basket, and let the rissoles fry a pale 
brown. 

19. If there is not sufficient fat to cover the rissoles, 
shake the basket occasionally, that they may get fried on 
all sides alike. 

N. B. If there is no frying-basket, put the rissoles into the fat with a 
spoon, and then turn them over, so as to get them equally browned. 

20. Put a piece of kitchen-paper on a plate. 

21. When the rissoles are fried, turn them carefully or 
to the paper to drain off the grease. 

22. For serving, put them on a hot dish. 



LESSON SEVENTH. 
MINCED MEAT. 

Ingredients. Scraps of cold meat. One tablespoonful of mushroom cat- 
sup. Pepper and salt. Half a pound of rice, or one pound of potatoes. 

Time required to cook the potatoes, half an hour ; to cook the mince. Jive 
minutes. 

To make a " Mince " of cold meat : 

1. If the mince is served with rice, see Lesson on 



THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 27 

" Eice " ; or if with mashed potatoes, see " Vegetables," 
Lesson No. 2. 

2. Put any scraps of cold meat on a board, and mince 
them up with a sharp knife. 

3. Put the minced meat into a saucepan, with about a 
tdblespoonful (or enough to moisten the mince) of mush- 
room catsup, or some gravy, and season it with pepper and 
salt to taste. 

4. Put the saucepan on the fire, to let the mince just 
warm through. 

5. Stir it occasionally, to prevent the meat from stick- 
ing to the bottom of the saucepan. 

6. For serving, turn the mince on to a hot dish, with a 
border of boiled rice or mashed potato. 



CHAPTER IV. 
ENTREES. 



LESSON FIRST. 
CUKRY. 

Ingredients. One rabbit or chicken. Half an ounce of coriander seed. 
Two cloves of garlic. One dessertspoonful of turmeric. Eight berries 
of red pepper. Two inches of the stick of cinnamon. Six cardamomums. 
A small piece of green ginger, the size of a chestnut. Five small onions. 
Salt. Three ounces of fresh butter. Half a pint of cream or good milk. 
The juice of half a lemon. 

Time required, about two hours. 

To make Curry : 

1. Take a rabbit (which has been skinned and properly 
prepared for cooking), and put it on a board. 

2. Cut it up in the same way as for carving, taking 
care that the pieces are nearly all of one size. 

N. B. Chicken, veal, and other meats would serve the purpose for 
curry as well as rabbit. 

3. Take a quarter of an ounce of coriander seed, put it 
into the mortar, and pound it very finely with a pestle. 

4. Take the pounded seed out of the mortar, and put 
it on a piece of paper. We must scrape out the mortar, 
so that none be lost. 



ENTREES. 29 

5. Take two doves of garlic, peel them with a sharp 
knife, and place them in the mortar. 

6. Also put into the mortar a dessertspoonful of tur- 
meric. 

7. Add eight berries of red pepper and one inch of the 
stick of cinnamon. 

8. Put in four cardamomums. 

9. Take a piece of green ginger about the size of a 
chestnut, and slice it very thin. 

10. Take three small onions, and peel off the two outer 
skins. 

11. Divide the onions into quarters, and place them and 
the sliced ginger in the mortar. 

12. Pound up all these spices and the onions as fine as 
possible with the pestle. 

13. Now add to them the pounded coriander seed, and 
mix them all up together. 

14. Turn this pounded mixture out of the mortar into a 
half -pint basin. 

15. Take a teacupful of cold water and rinse out the 
mortar, and then pour the water on to the pounded mix- 
ture in the basin. 

16. Take the pieces of rabbit and wash them in cold 
water. 

17. Take them out of the cold water and place them on 
a sieve to drain. 

18. Take a stewpan, and put in it three ounces of fresh 
butter. 

19. Put the stewpan on the fire to melt the butter. 

N. B. Be careful that it does not burn. 

20. Take two small onions and peel off the two outer 
skins. 



30 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

21. Divide the onions in half down the centre, and cut 
them up so that the slices are in half -circles. 

22. Put these sliced onions into the melted butter, add 
also two cardamomums, and let them fry a pale brown. 

23. Then take the onions carefully out of the stewpan 
with a slice, and place them on a piece of whity-brown 
paper, to drain off the grease. 

24. Now take the basin of spices, and add as much cold 
water as will make the basin three parts full. 

25. Add to the basin of spices a small dessertspoonful 
of salt. 

26. Now pour all the contents of the basin into the 
melted butter in the stewpan, to cook for about twenty 
minutes, stirring well all the time with a wooden spoon. 

N. B. To test when the spices are sufficiently cooked, you should 
smell them, and if they are quite done, no particular spice should 
predominate. 

27. Now place the pieces of rabbit in the stewpan to 
brown. 

28. Turn them occasionally, so that they will get brown 
on all sides. 

29. Now pour into the stewpan a teacupful of cold 
water, to make the meat tender. 

30. Put the lid on the stewpan, and let it all cook stead- 
ily for about an hour. 

31. Watch it carefully, and stir it perpetually. 

N. B. A good deal of stirring is required. 

32. Add, by degrees, a teacupful of cold water, to wash 
down the bits of spice which will stick to the sides of the 
stewpan. 

33. Also add, by degrees, half a pint of cream or good 



ENTRIES. 31 

milk {water might even be used instead), and mix it well 
together with a wooden spoon. 

N. B. You must be careful that no pieces of meat, or spices, stick to 
the bottom of the pan. 

34. Now take half ^LQ fried onions, chop them up finely, 
and add them to the curry, 

35. Then put into the mortar Jive coriander seeds and 
one inch of the stick of cinnamon, and pound them well 
together with a pestle. 

36. When the rabbit is quite done, take the pieces out 
with a fork, arrange them nicely on a hot dish, and pour 
the gravy round. 

37. Then sprinkle over the rabbit the remainder of the 
fried onions, and the pounded cinnamon and coriander 
seeds. 

38. Take a fresh lemon, cut it in half, and squeeze all 
the juice of it through a strainer over the rabbit. 

N. B. Boiled rice should be served with the above Curry (see Lea- 
son on " Rice "). 



LESSON SECOND. 
QUENELLES OF VEAL. 

Ingredients. One pound of the fillet of veal. Two ounces of butter. Two 
and three-quarters ounces of flour. Three-fourths of a pint of second 
white stock. Two eggs. One dozen button mushrooms. One gill of cream. 
One teaspoonful of lemon-juice. Salt. 

Time required, about three-quarters of an hour. 

To make Quenelles of Veal : 

1. Put one ounce of butter and two ounces of flour into 
a stewpan, and mix them well together with a wooden 
spoon. o 



32 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

2. Add one gill of second white stock. (See Lesson on 
" Stock.") 

3. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir well until it 
boils and thickens, and leaves the sides of the stewpan. 

4. JSTow pour this mixture, or panada (as it is called), 
on to a plate. 

5. Stand the plate aside to cool. 

6. Take one pound of the fillet of veal and put it on a 
board. 

7. Take a sharp knife, cut away all the skin and fat, 
and cut up the meat into small pieces. 

8. Put these pieces of veal into a mortar, and pound 
them well with the pestle. 

9. Place a wire sieve over a plate ; take this pounded 
meat and pass it through the sieve, rubbing it with a 
wooden spoon. 

10. When the panada on the plate is cold, put half of it 
and one egg in the mortar, and pound it to a cream. 

11. Then add half the meat, and salt and pepper to 
taste, and pound all well together with the pestle. 

12. Put into the mortar the remainder of the panada, 
and break in another egg, and add the rest of the meat. 

13. Pound these well together again with the pestle. 

14. Turn the mixture from the mortar into a basin. 

15. Take a saute-pan and butter it inside. 

16. Take a dessertspoon and fill it with the mixture, 
shaping it to the form of an oval with a knife, which you 
must dip occasionally into hot water, to prevent the mix- 
ture from sticking. 

17. Take another dessertspoon and dip it into boiling 
water. 

18. Scoop the quenelle from the first spoon into the sec- 
ond spoon, and put it into the saute-pan, and continue 
doing this till you have used up all the mixture. 



ENTREES. 33 

19. Now make the sauce to be served with the quenelles. 

20. Take a stewpan, and put in half an ounce of butter 
and half an ounce of flour. 

21. Put the stewpan on the fire, and mix them together 
with a wooden spoon. 

22. Take one dozen of button mushrooms, cut off the ends 
of the stalks, and wash them well in cold wafer. 

23. Take them out of the water, put them upon a board, 
and peel them carefully with a sharp knife. 

24. Pour half a pint of second white stock into the mix- 
ture in the stewpan, and add the mushroom peelings for 
flavoring. 

25. Stir well until it boils and thickens. 

26. Stand the stewpan by the side of the fire, with the 
lid half on, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour. 

27. Then take a spoon, and skim off all the butter from 
the top of the sauce. 

28. Now stir into the sauce one gill of cream, and stand 
the stewpan aside to keep warm, until required for. use. 

29. Take the peeled mushrooms and put them in a stew- 
pan, with a piece of butter the size of a chestnut. 

30. Squeeze over them a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 
and pour in one tdblespoonful of cold water. 

31. Put the stewpan on the fire, and just bring them to 
the boil. 

32. Now pour boiling water carefully into the saute- 
pan, enough to cover the quenelles. 

N. B. Be careful to pour the water very gently into the saute-pan, or 
the quenelles will be spoiled. 

33. Put the saute-pan on the fire, to poach the quenelles 
for ten minutes. 

N. B. Watch them, and occasionally turn them carefully with a spoon. 



34 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

34. When the quenelles are done, lift them out of the 
water, and lay them on a cloth to drain off the water, 

35. For serving, arrange them tastily in a circle on a 
hot dish. 

36. Fill in the centre of the dish with the boiled mush- 
rooms. 

N. B. Peas (see " Vegetables," Lesson No. 9), or spinach (see " Vege- 
tables," Lesson No. 8), may be served with them instead, according 
to taste. 

37. Take the stewpan off the fire, and pour the sauce 
through a strainer over the quenelles. 



LESSON THIRD. 
BRAISED FILLETS OF BEEF. 

Ingredients. One pound of fillet of beef. A piece of the fat of bacon. 
A bouquet garni of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf. Two young carrots. 
One onion, and one-fourth of a stick of celery. A pint of good stock. 

Time required (the stock should be made the day before), about one hour and a 
half. 

To Lard and Braise Fillets of Beef : 

1. Take one pound of fillet of beef (cut from the un- 
der-cut of the sirloin), and put it on a board. 

2. Take a sharp knife, and cut the beef into small 
round fillets, to about the size of the top of a coffee-cup, 
and about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, and trim 
them neatly. 

3. Take a strip of the fat of bacon (nearest the rind is 
best, as it is harder), about one inch wide. 

4. Take a sharp knife, and cut up this piece of "bacon 
into little strips, an inch long and one-eighth of an inch 
in width and thickness. 

5. Take each fillet, and hold it in a clean cloth. 



ENTRIES. 35 

6. Take a larding-needle, with a little strip of bacon in 
it, and lard each fillet neatly in regular rows, until one 
side of the fillet is entirely covered with strips of bacon. 

7. "When you have larded all the fillets, lay them care- 
fully in a clean saute-pan. 

8. Add a bouquet garni, consisting of a little parsley, 
thyme, and a bay-leaf, all tied neatly and tightly together. 

9. Take two young carrots, scrape them clean with a 
knife, and cut them in halves. 

10. Take an onion and peel it carefully. 

11. Add these vegetables, and a quarter of a stick of 
celery, to the fillets in the saute-pan. 

12. Now pour in a pint of good stock, put the saute-pan 
on the fire, and baste the fillets continually. 

N. B. The stock must not cover the meat. 

13. Take a piece of kitchen-paper, and cut a round to 
the size of the saute-pan and butter it. 

14. As soon as the stock boils, lay this round of paper 
on the fillets in the saute-pan. 

N. B. This paper is to prevent the meat browning too quickly. 

15. Lift the paper every now and then, when you re- 
quire to baste the fillets. 

16. Put the saute-pan into a very hot oven, to brown 
the fillets. 

17. Let the pint of stock reduce to a half-glaze, which 
will take about half an hour. 

18. Watch it, frequently raise the paper, and baste the 
fillets with the stock. 

N. B. If the fillets are not brown enough, take a salamander J and 
heat it in the fire. 

1 A salamander is a tile-shaped piece of iron, which can be lifted by a 
handle, like the cover of a stove. 



36 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

19. Hold the salamander over the fillets, to brown them 
a nice color. 

20. For serving, take the fillets carefully out of the 
saute-pan, and arrange them on a hot dish in a circle, on 
a border of mashed potatoes. (See " Vegetables," Lesson 
No. 2.) 

N. B. You must stand this dish on the hot plate, or near the fire, to 
keep warm, until the sauce is ready. 

21. Put the saute-pan on the fire, and let the sauce re- 
duce to a half-glaze. 

22. Then strain the glaze round the meat. 



N. B. The centre of the dish may be filled in with mixed vegetabl 
i. e., peas and beans, which should be cut in the shape of dice, car 
rots and turnips, cut with a cutter to the size of the peas. 



IESSON FOURTH. 
MUTTON CUTLETS. 

Ingredients. Three pounds of the best end of the neck of mutton. 
Bread-crumbs. One egg. Salt and pepper. Three ounces of clarified 
butter. 

Time required, about tJiree-quarters of an hour. 

To Fry Mutton Outlets : 

1. Take three pounds of the best end of the neck of 
mutton, and put it on a board. 

2. Take a saw and saw off the end of the rib-bone, 
leaving the cutlet-bone three inches in length. 

3. Saw off the chine-bone, which lies at the back of the 
cutlets. 

4. Joint each cutlet with the chopper. 

5. Take a sharp knife, and cut off each cutlet close to 
the bone. 



ENTRIES. 37 

6. Take a cutlet-bat, wet it, and beat eacli cutlet to 
about half an inch in thickness. 

7. Trim the cutlet round, leaving about half an inch 
of the rib-~bone bare. 

8. Form the cutlets to a good shape. 

N. B. The trimmings of the cutlets should be put aside, as the fat 
may be clarified and used as dripping. 

9. Take a wire sieve and stand it over a piece of paper. 

10. Take some crumb of bread and rub it through the 
sieve. 

11. Take one egg and beat it on a plate with a knife. 

12. Season the cutlets on both sides with pepper and 
salt. 

13. Lay them in the egg, and egg them well all over 
with a brush. 

14. Then put them in the bread-crumbs, and cover 
them well. 

N. B Be careful to finger them as little as possible, and lift them by 
the bare bone. 

15. Take a saute-pan, and pour in it one ounce of melt- 
ed clarified .butter or lard^or clarified dripping. 

16. Now lay in the cutlets, with the bones to the centre 
of the saute-pan. 

17. Pour over them two more ounces of melted clarified 
butter or fat. 

18. Now put the saute-pan on a very quick fire for 
about seven minutes. 

19. Watch and turn the cutlets when they have become 
a light-brown, so as to fry them the same color on both 
sides. 

20. Place a piece of -whity-brown paper on a plate. 

21. When the cutlets are done, take them carefully out 



38 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

with a fork, and lay them on the paper on the plate, to 
drain off the grease. 

N. B. Be careful to stick the fork into the fat, and not into the 
meat, or the gravy will run out. 

22. For serving, arrange them nicely in a dish, in a cir- 
cle, one leaning over the other. The centre may be filled 
with any vegetable, according to taste. 



LESSON FIFTH. 
CHATJD FROID OF CHICKEN. 

Ingredients. One chicken. One half-pint of white sauce. One gill of 
cream. Two tablespoonfuls of aspic jelly. Chopped pieces of aspic 
jelly. Mixed vegetables. One gill of mayonnaise sauce. 

Time required, about one Jiour and three-quarters. 

To make Chaud Froid of Chicken : 

1. Put half a pint of white sauce (see " Sauces," Les- 
son No. 1) in a stewpan. 

2. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil, and stir well 
with a wooden spoon, till the sauce is reduced to one gill. 

3. Then add one gill of cream, and stir again, until it 
just boils. 

4. Take a tammy sieve and stand it over a basin. 

5. Take the stewpan off the fire, and pass the contents 
through the sieve into the basin. 

6. "When it is all passed through into the basin, stir in 
two tablespoonfuls of aspic jelly (see " Jelly," Lesson No. 2). 

N. B. This aspic jelly should be made with chicken as well as veal. 

7. Take a cold roast chicken (see " Trussing a Fowl for 
Roasting "), and put it on a board. 

N. B. The chicken must be young, as the flesh should be as white as 
possible. 



ENTREES. 39 

8. Cut it up in the same way as for carving, taking 
care that the pieces are all of one size. Remove the skin, 
and neatly trim each piece. 

9. Dip these pieces of chicken in the sauce, covering 
them well over. 

10. Stand a drainer over a dish. 

11. Place the pieces of chicken on the drainer, and let 
them remain until the sauce is set over each piece. 

12. For serving, arrange the pieces of chicken on chopped 
aspic jelly (see " Jelly," Lesson No. 2), in a circle on a 
dish. 

13. The centre should be filled in with mixed vegeta- 
bles i. e., cooked potato, carrot, and beet-root, stamped 
out with a vegetable-cutter; cooked French peas, cut to 
the shape of dice ; and green peas all mixed together, 
with two tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise sauce. (See 
" Sauces," Lesson No. 3.) 



LESSON SIXTH. 
VEAL CUTLETS. 

Ingredients. Three pounds of the best end of the neck of veal. Savory 
thyme. The rind of half a lemon. One bunch of parsley. One ounce 
of butter. One teaspoonful of lemon-juice. One egg. Pepper and salt. 
Bread-crumbs. One-half pound of bacon for rolls. 

Time required, about one-half hour. 

To Broil Veal Cutlets: 

1. Take three pounds of the best end of the neck of 
veal, or veal cutlet, and put it on a board. 

2. Take a saw and saw off the end of the rib-bone, 
leaving the cutlet-lone three inches in length. 



40 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

3. Saw off the chine-bone, which lies at the back of the 
cutlets. 

4. Joint each cutlet with the chopper. 

5. Take a sharp knife and cut off each cutlet close to 
the hone, so as to get an extra cutlet between each bone. 

6. Take a cutlet-bat and beat each cutlet to about half 
an inch in thickness. 

7. Trim the cutlet round, leaving about half an inch 
of the rib-bone bare. 

8. Form the cutlets to a good shape. 

N. B. The trimmings of the cutlets should be put aside, as the fat 
may be clarified, and used for dripping. 

9. Take a little savory thyme, put it on a board, and 
chop it up very fine. (The thyme, when chopped, should 
fill a salt-spoon.) 

10. Take half a lemon and peel it very thin. 

11. Chop this lemon-rind up very fine. 

12. Wash a small bunch of parsley in cold water, and 
dry it in a cloth. 

13. Chop up this parsley very fine on a board. 

14. Put one ounce of "butter on a kitchen-plate, and put 
it in the oven to melt. 

15. When the butter is melted, add a tablespoonful of 
lemon-juice, and the chopped thyme, lemoTwind, and par- 
sley. 

16. Add one egg, and pepper and salt to taste, and beat 
all up together with a knife. 

17. Take a wire sieve and stand it over a piece of 
paper. 

18. Rub some crumb of bread through the sieve. 

19. Dip each cutlet into the plate, and cover it all over 
with the mixture. 



ENTREES. 41 

20. Then put it in the bread-crumbs, and cover it well. 

N. B. You should finger them as little as possible. 

21. Take a gridiron and hold it to the fire to warm. 

22. Arrange the cutlets on the gridiron. 

23. Place the gridiron in front of a bright fire, but not 
too near, or the bread-crumbs will burn before the cutlets 
are sufficiently cooked. 

24. Then let them broil for about ten minutes, and when 
they have become a pale brown on one side, turn the grid- 
iron, so as to brown them on both sides alike. 

25. For serving, arrange the cutlets on a wall of mashed 
potatoes (see " Vegetables," Lesson No. 2), in a circle on a 
hot dish, one leaning over the other ; the centre may be 
filled in with rolls of bacon (see below), and with a thick 
brown sauce (see " Sauces," Lesson No. 2), 

For Rolls of Bacon : 

1. Cut some thin slices of bacon, about two mches wide 
and about four inches in length, 

2. Roll up these strips of bacon. 

3. Take a skewer and run it through the centre of 
each roll of bacon. 

4. Place this skewer, with the bacon, on a tin, and put 
it in the oven for six minutes. 

5. For serving, take the rolls of bacon off the skewer, 
and arrange them in the centre of the cutlets, as described 
above. 



42 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON SEVENTH. 
FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN. 

Ingredients. One young chicken. One small carrot. One-half an onion. 
One stick of celery. Two or three sprigs of parsley. One sprig of 
thyme. One bay-leaf. Two cloves. Six pepper-corns. One blade of 
mace. One and a half pint of second white stock. One ounce of but- 
ter. One and a half ounce of flour. Two dozen of button mushrooms. 
Fried bread. One gill of cream. 

Time required, about one hour and a half. 

To make a Fricassee of Chicken : 

1. Take a young chicken, clean it, draw it (see " Truss- 
ing a Fowl for Boasting," from Note 1 to Note 12), and 
skin it. 

2. Cut the chicken into joints, and put them into a 
basin of cold water for about ten minutes. 

3. After that time, take the pieces of chicken out of 
the water and dry them in a clean cloth. 

4. Take one small carrot, wash and scrape it clean, 
and cut it into slices. 

5. Take half an onion and peel it. 

6. Take one stick of celery and two or three sprigs of 
parsley, and wash them in cold water. 

7. Put these vegetables into a -stewpan. 

8. Add to them one sprig of thyme, one hay-leaf, two 
cloves, six pepper-corns, and one blade of mace. 

9. Now put in the pieces of chicken, and add one pint 
and a half of second white stock. 

10. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil gently for about 
half an hour. 

11. When the pieces of chicken are quite done, take 
them out ol the stewpan, wash them in a basin of cold 
water, and dry them in a cloth. 



ENTREES. 43 

12. Strain the stock from the stewpan into the basin. 

13. Take two dozen button mushrooms, cut off the ends 
of the stalks, wash them in cold water, and peel them. 

14. Take the peeled mushrooms, and put them into the 
stewpan, with a piece of butter the size of a chestnut. 

15. Squeeze over them a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and 
pour in a tdblespoonful of cold water. 

16. Put the stewpan on the fire, and just bring them to 
the boil. 

17. Then take the stewpan off the fire and turn them 
on to a plate. 

18. Wash out the stewpan, and then put in it one ounce 
of butter. 

19. Put the stewpan on the fire to melt the butter. 

20. Then add one and a half ounces of flour to the but- 
ter, stirring it well with a wooden spoon. 

21. Now remove all the grease from the chicken stock, 
and add it and the trimmings of the mushrooms to the 
stewpan, and stir well until it boils. 

22. Move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let it 
boil gently for twenty minutes. The cover of the stew- 
pan should be half on. 

23. After that time, take a spoon and carefully skim off 
all the butter that will have risen to the top of the sauce. 

24. Now put the stewpan over the fire to boil, and let 
the sauce reduce to about one pint, and then add one gill 
of cream. 

25. Take the pieces of chicken and put them in anoth- 
er stewpan, with the two dozen button mushrooms. 

26. When the sauce is sufficiently reduced, strain it over 
the chicken. 

27. Then stand the stewpan in a saucepan of hot water 
over the fire, until the chicken is quite hot. 



44 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

28. For serving, arrange the fricassee of chicken on a 
hot dish, with fried bread (as described in " Vegetables," 
Lesson No. 7, Note 13 to Note 17). 

FOB COLD CHICKEN. 

Ingredients* Some cold chicken, say half of one. One-half a carrot. One- 
fourth of an onion. One-half a stick of celery.* A bouquet garni of 
parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf. One gill of cream. One clove. Three 
pepper-corns. One-half a blade of mace. One pint of good white stock. 
One-half an ounce of butter. One ounce of flour. One dozen button 
mushrooms. Fried bread. Salt. 

Time required, about forty minutes. 

To make a Fricassee of Cold Chicken : 

1. Take some cold roast or boiled chicken. 

2. Cut away all the meat from the bone, and cut it up 
into neat pieces. 

3. Put one pint of good white stock (see Lessen on 
" Stock ") and the chicken-bones into a stewpan. 

4. Wash half a carrot, scrape it, and cut it into slices. 

5. Peel a quarter of an onion. 

6. Wash half a stick of celery in cold water. 

7. Put these vegetables into the stewpan. 

8. Add to them a bouquet garni (consisting of a little 
parsley, one sprig of thyme, and one bay-leaf, tied tightly 
together), one clove, three pepper-corns, and half a blade 
of mace. 

9. Put the stewpan on the fire, and let it boil for 
twenty minutes. 

10. After that time, strain the stock into a basin. 

11. Take one dozen button mushrooms, cut off the ends 
of the stalks, wash them in cold water, and peel them. 

12. Take the peeled mushrooms and put them in a 
stewpan, with a piece of butter the size of a chestnut. 



ENTRIES. 45 

13. Squeeze over them a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 
and pour in a tablespoonful of cold water. 

14. Put the stewpan on the fire, and just bring them to 
the boil. 

15. Then take the stewpan off the fire, and turn them 
on to a plate. 

16. Put half an ounce of 'butter into a stewpan. 

17. Put the stewpan on the fire. When the ~butter is 
melted, put in one ounce of flour ', stirring it well with a 
wooden spoon. 

18. Now add the chicken stock and the mushroom-peel- 
ings, and stir the sauce well until it boils. 

19. Let it boil for ten minutes, to cook \hsflour. 

20. After that time, add one gill of cream, and salt to 
taste. 

21. Put the pieces of chicken and the button mushrooms 
into another stewpan. 

22. Strain the sauce over the chicken, and then stand 
the stewpan in a saucepan of hot water over the fire, 
until the chicken is quite hot. 

23. For serving, arrange the fricassee of chicken on a 
hot dish, with some fried bread (as described in " Vege- 
tables," Lesson No. 8, Note 13 to Note 17) put round 
the edge. 

LESSON EIGHTH. 
BEEF OLIVES. 

Ingredients. One pound and a half of beef or rump steak, or the fillet of 
beef. Two ounces of beef -suet. Three ounces of bread-crumbs. One tea- 
spoonful of chopped parsley. One-fourth of a teaspoonful of chopped thyme 
and marjoram. A little grated lemon-rind and nutmeg. Salt and pep- 
per. One egg. One pint of brown sauce or stock. 

Time required, about one hour. 



4:6 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

To make Beef Olives : 

1. Take one pound and a half of beef or rump steak, or 
the fillet of beefy and put it on a board. 

2. Cut the beef in slices about half an inch in thick- 
ness and four inches in length, and beat them out with a 
wet cutlet-bat. 

N. B. You should be careful that all the slices are of the same size. 

3. Take the trimmings that remain, chop them up 
very fine, and put them in a basin. 

4. Take two ounces of beef -suet, and put it on a board. 

5. Cut away all the skin, and chop the suet up very 
fine. 

6. Stand a wire sieve over a piece of paper. 

7. Rub some crumb of bread through the sieve. (There 
should be three ounces of bread-crumbs.) 

8. Take a little parsley, and chop it fine. (There 
should be one teaspoonful of chopped parsley.) 

9. Take a little thyme and marjoram, and chop them 
fine. (There should be about a quarter of a teaspoonful 
of chopped thyme and marjoram.) 

10. Add all these things (i. e., suet, bread-crumbs, par- 
sley, thyme, and marjoram) to the chopped beef in the basin. 

11. Grate half a teaspoonful of lemon-rind and nutmeg 
into the basin. 

12. Season it with plenty of pepper and salt, add one 
egg, and mix all well together with a wooden spoon. 

13. Take this mixture out of the basin, and form it into 
pieces the shape and size of a cork. 

14. Roll up each slice of beef, placing a piece of stuffing 
in the centre. 

15. Tie each roll round with a piece of twine, to fasten 
it securely together. 



ENTREES. 4.7 



16. Place these rolls in a stewpan, with about one pint 
of brown sauce (see " Sauces," Lesson No. 2), or good 
stock (see Lesson on " Stock ".) 

17. Put the stewpan on the fire, and let them stew 
gently for three-quarters of an hour. 

18. For serving, arrange the beef olives on a hot dish 
in a circle, pouring the sauce round the edge. The cen- 
tre may be filled in with dressed spinach (see " Vegeta- 
bles," Lesson No. 7), or with mashed potatoes (see " Vege- 
tables," Lesson No. 2). 



LESSON NINTH. 
IRISH STEW. 

Ingredients. Three pounds of the best end of the neck of mutton, or the 
scrag end. One teaspoonful of salt. One salt-spoonful of pepper. One 
dozen of button onions, or two of moderate size. Six large potatoes. 

Time required, about two hours. 

To make an Irish Stew : 

1. Take the best end of the neck of mutton, and cut 
and trim the cutlets in the same way as for " Haricot 
Mutton " (see " Entrees," Lesson No. 10, from Note 1 to 
Note 8). 

2. Place the cutlets in a stewpan. 

3. Sprinkle over them a teaspoonful of salt and a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, and pour in one pint and a half of 
cold water. 

4. Put the stewpan on the fire, and, when it has come 
to the boil, skim it. 

5. Now draw the stewpan to the side of the fire, and 
let it simmer gently for one hour. 



4 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

6. Watch it and skim it occasionally, and remove all fat. 

7. Wash half a dozen potatoes, scrub them, and peel 
them. 

8. Cut these potatoes in halves. 

9. Take one dozen of button onions, or two moderate- 
sized ones, and peel them carefully. 

10. Add the onions and potatoes to the stew, and let it 
simmer for one hour. 

11. After that time, take a fork and feel if the vegetables 
are quite tender. 

12. For serving, arrange the cutlets in a. circle on a hot 
dish, and pour the sauce round, with the vegetables in the 
centre. 

N. B. The scrag end of the neck of mutton might be used instead of 
the best end, but care should be taken in cleansing it before use. 



LESSON TENTH. 
HARICOT MUTTON. 

Ingredients. Three pounds of the best end of the neck of mutton. One 
onion. Pepper and salt. One tablespoonful of flour. One pint of sec- 
ond stock. One carrot. One turnip. One dozen button onions. 

Time required, about an hour and a half. 

To make Haricot Mutton : 

1. Take the best end of the neck of mutton and put it 
on a board. 

2. Saw off the end of the rib-bone, leaving the cutlet- 
bone three inches in length. 

3. Saw off the chine-bone, which lies at the back of 
the cutlets. 

4. Joint each cutlet with a chopper. 

5. Take a sharp knife and cut off each cutlet. 



ENTRIES. 49 

6. Beat each cutlet with a cutlet-bat to rather more 
than half an inch in thickness. 

7. Trim the cutlet round, leaving about half an inch 
of the rib-bone bare. 

8. Form the cutlets to a good shape. 

N. B. The trimmings of the cutlets should be put aside, as the fat 
may be clarified and used for dripping (see Lesson on " Frying "). 

9. Take one onion, peel it, and cut it in slices. 

10. Put the onion and the cutlets in a stewpan, with 
two ounces of butter. 

11. Put the stewpan on a quick fire, to fry the cutlets a 
nice brown. 

12. Watch and turn the cutlets when they have become 
a light-brown, so as to fry them the same color on both 
sides. Then remove them from the stewpan. 

13. Pour off the grease from the stewpan, and leave the 
onion ; then add one tallespoonful of flour, and pour in, 
by degrees, one pint of second stock, and stir well until it 
boils. 

14. Strain this sauce, and return the cutlets, with the 
sauce, into the stewpan. 

15. Wash one carrot, scrape it clean with a knife, and 
cut it in the shape of young carrots, or into fancy shapes, 
with a cutter. 

16. Peel two turnips, and cut them in quarters. 

17. Peel one dozen button onions very carefully, so as 
not to break them in pieces. 

18. Put the stewpan on the fire, and let the meat stew 
gently for half an hour ; then add the prepared vegetables, 
and let all simmer for half an hour. 

19. After that time, take a fork and feel if the vegetables 
are quite tender. 



5Q LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

20. For serving, arrange the cutlets in a circle on a hot 
dish, with the vegetables in the centre. Remove all grease 
from the sauce, and pour it round. 

. N. B. The scrag end of the neck of mutton might be used instead of 
the best end, but care should be taken in cleansing it before use. 



LESSON ELEVENTH. 
CROQUETTES OR RISSOLES OF CHICKEN. 

Ingredients. One-half a cold chicken. Two ounces of lean ham or bacon. 
Six mushrooms. One ounce of flour. One ounce of butter. Half a gill 
of cream. One gill of stock. Seasoning. The juice of half a lemon. 
One egg. Half a pound of bread-crumbs. If for Rissoles with paste, 
four ounces of flour and three ounces of butter. 

Time required, about one hour. 

To make Croquettes or Rissoles of Chicken : 

1. Cut away all \heflesh from the bones of half a chick- 
en (either roasted or boiled), and put it on a board. 

2. Remove the skin, and mince the meat very fine. 

3. Wash and peel six mushrooms and mince them 
with two ounces of lean ham, and mix them with the 
minced chicken. 

4. Put one ounce of butter in a stewpan, and place it 
over the fire. 

5. When the butter is melted, stir in one ounce of 
flour, and mix it to a smooth paste. 

6. Now add the stock, and stir again smoothly, until it 
boils and thickens. 

7. Move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and stir in 
half a gill of cream. 

8. Take half a lemon and squeeze the juice of it into 
the sauce. 

N. B. Be careful not to let any pips fall in. 



ENTRIES. 51 

9. Season the sauce with pepper and salt according to 
taste, and, if liked, grate about half a salt-spoonful of nut- 
meg into it. 

10. Now stir in the minced chicken, ham, and mush- 
rooms, until all are well mixed together. 

11. Take a plate, and turn the contents of the stewpan 
on to it. 

12. Cut a piece of kitchen^paper to the size of the plate, 
butter it, and lay it on the top of the mixture, and stand 
the plate aside to cool. 

13. When the mixture is cold, put one pound and a 
half of lard, or clarified dripping, in a deep stewpan, and 
put it on the fire to heat. 

14. Rub some crumb of bread through a wire sieve on 
to a piece of paper. 

15. If rissoles are required, put four ounces of flour on 
a board, and rub into it three ounces of butter, until both 
are thoroughly mixed and there are no lumps remaining. 

16. Mix the flour and butter into a stiff, smooth paste 
with cold water. 

17. Flour a rolling-pin, sprinkle some flour over the board, 
and roll the paste out into as thin a sheet as possible. 

18. Flour your hands, dip a knife in flour (to prevent 
any sticking), and form the chicken mixture into any fancy 
shapes for croquettes, either in balls or long rolls, etc., or 
roll it in the paste for rissoles. 

19. Break an egg on to a plate, and beat it up slightly 
with a knife. 

20. Dip the croquettes or rissoles into the egg, and egg 
them well all over with a paste-brush. 

21. Now roll them in the bread-crumbs, covering them 
well all over. 

N. B. You must be careful to cover them smoothly, and not too thickly. 



52 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

22. Take a frying-lasJcet, and arrange the croquettes or 
rissoles in it. Finger them as little as possible, and do 
not allow them to touch each other. 

23. When the fat is quite hot and smoking, put in the 
fry ing -basket for two minutes or so, to fry them a pale- 
yellow. 

24. Put a piece of whity-brown paper on a plate, and, 
as the rissoles are fried, turn them on to the paper to 
drain off the grease. 

25. For serving, arrange them tastily on a hot dish, 
with fried parsley in the centre. 

N. B. Cold veal or pheasant, etc., might be used for the rissoles and 
croquettes, instead of chicken, if preferred. 



LESSON TWELFTH. 

CURRIED RABBIT. 

Ingredients. One rabbit, or one and a half pound of veal cutlet. One- 
fourth of a pound of butter. Two onions. One apple. Two tablcspoon- 
fuls of curry powder. One pint of good stock. One gill of cream. One 
lemon. One-half a teaspoonf ul of salt. 

Time required, about two hours and a half. 

To make a Curry of Rabbit or Veal : 

1. Put a quarter of a pound of Gutter into a stewpan, 
and put it on the fire to melt. 

2. Peel two onions, put them on a board, and chop 
them up as finely as possible. 

3. Put the chopped onions into the melted butter, and 
let them fry a light-brown. 

N. B. You must be careful that they do not burn. 

4. Take a rabbit (which has been skinned and properly 
prepared for cooking), wash it well, and dry it in a cloth. 



ENTREES. 53 

5. Put the rabbit on a board and cut it up in pieces of 
equal size. 

6. If veal is used, put it on a board and cut it into 
equal-sized pieces. 

N. B. If preferred, chicken can be used instead of rabbit or veal. 

7. When the onions are fried, strain them from the 
butter. 

8. Put the butter back into the stewpan. 

9. Now put in the pieces of meat, put the stewpan 
over a quick fire, and let it fry for ten minutes. 

10. Watch it, and turn the pieces of meat occasionally, 
so that they will be fried on both sides alike. 

11. Peel an apple, cut out the core, and chop it up as 
finely as possible on a board. 

12. When the meat is fried, add to it two tablespoonfuls 
of curry powder and half a teaspoonful of salt, and stir 
well over the fire for five minutes. 

13. Then put in the fried onions, the chopped apple, 
and one pint of good stock. 

14. Move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let it 
simmer gently for two hours. 

15. After that time, stir in one gill of cream. 

16. Wipe a lemon clean with a cloth, and peel it as thinly 
as possible with a sharp knife. (The peel should be put 
aside, as it is not required for present use.) 

17. Cut the lemon in half, and squeeze the juice of it 
through a strainer into the stewpan. 

18. For serving, take the pieces of meat out of the stew- 
pan, and arrange them nicely on a hot dish, and pour the 
sauce over the meat. 

N. B. Boiled rice should be served with the curry. 



CHAPTER V. 
STEWS. 



LESSON FIRST. 
A-LA-MODE BEEF. 

Ingredients. One cow-heel. An ox-cheek. Three ounces of dripping. 
Three carrots. Six onions. One bunch of herbs (marjoram, thyme, par- 
sley, and bay-leaf). Two tablespoonfuls of flour. Pepper and salt. 

Time required, three hours. 

To make A-la-Mode Beef : 

1. Take a dressed cow-heel and wash it thoroughly in 
water. 

2. Put the cow-heel on a board and cut off all the flesh. 
Cut \hejlesh into neat pieces. 

3. Take an ox-cheek and wash it well in cold water. 

N. B. Be sure it is quite clean, and free from all impurities. 

4. Put the ox-cheek on a board and rub it well with 
salt. 

5. Then rub it quite dry in a clean cloth. 

6. Put three ounces of clarified dripping into a large 
saucepan, and place it on the fire to melt. 



STEWS. 55 

7. Cut the ox- cheek up into neat pieces. 

N. B. Weigh the flesh of the ox-cheek and cow-heel, so as to know 
how much water should be added, as one pint is allowed to each 
pound of meat, 

8. Flour each piece, 

9. When the dripping is melted, put in the floured 
pieces of ox-cheek, and let them fry a nice brown. 

10. Stir the pieces occasionally, and do not let them 
stick to the bottom of the saucepan. 

11. Take three carrots, wash them, scrape them clean, 
and cut them in slices with a sharp knife. 

12. Take six onions, peel them, and cut them in slices. 

13. Take a sprig or two of parsley, wash it, and dry it 
in a cloth. 

14. Take one sprig of marjoram, thyme, one lay-leaf, 
and the parsley, and tie them tightly together with a piece 
of string. 

15. Put these vegetables and the lunch of herbs into the 
saucepan. 

16. Pour in the proper quantity of water namely, one 
pint of water to each pound of meat. 

17. Put two tablespoonfuls of flour into a basin, and 
mix it into a smooth paste with cold water. 

18. Now put the pieces of cow-heel into the saucepan, 
and plenty of pepper and salt to taste. 

19. Stir the paste smoothly into the saucepan. 

20. Put the lid on the saucepan, and, when it boils, 
move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it stew 
gently for three hours. 

21. Watch it, and skim it very often. 

N. B. Be always careful to skim anything that is cooking directly the 
scum rises, or it will boil down again into the meat, and will spoil 
it. Scum is the impurity which rises from the meat or vegetables. 



56 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

22. "When the stew is finished, pour it into a large dish 
or a soup-tureen. It is then ready for serving. 

N. B. The bones of the cow-heel should be put into the stock-pot. 



LESSON SECOND. 
BRAZILIAN STEW. 

Ingredients. Four pounds of shin or sticking of beef. Two carrots. Two 
turnips. Four onions. A bunch of herbs (marjoram, thyme, and par- 
sley). Pepper and salt. One gill of vinegar. 

Time required, about three hours and ten minutes. 

To make Brazilian Stew : 

1. Take four pounds of the shin of beef or the stick- 
ing of beef, put it on a board, and cut all the meat off the 
bone. 

2. Cut up the meat into neat pieces. 

3. Dip each piece of meat into some vinegar in a basin. 

N. B. Putting meat into vinegar will make it tender, therefore any 
tough pieces may be used for this stew. The vinegar will not be 
tasted when the meat is cooked. 

4. "Wash two carrots, scrape them clean, and cut them 
into slices with a sharp knife. 

5. Peel two turnips and four onions, and cut them in 
slices. 

6. Put the pieces of meat into a saucepan, arranging 
them closely together. 

7. Sprinkle some pepper and salt over the meat. 

8. Now put in all the vegetables, and also add a small 
bunch of herbs namely, a sprig of marjoram,, thyme, and 
parsley, tied tightly together. 

N. B. Put no water in this stew ; the vinegar draws out the juices of 
the meat, and makes plenty of gravy. 



STEWS. 57 

9. Shut down the lid tight ; put the saucepan by the 
side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for at least 
three hours. 

10. For serving, turn the stew on to a hot dish, or into 
a soup-tureen. 



LESSON THIRD. 
IRISH STEW. 

Ingredients* Two pounds of potatoes. One pound of the scrag end of 
mutton. One pound of onions. Pepper and salt. 

Time required, about three hours. 

To make an Irish Stew : 

1. Take two pounds of potatoes and wash them well in 
cold water. 

2. Take a sharp knife, peel them, carefully cut out the 
eyes or any black specks about the potatoes, and cut them 
in slices. 

3. Peel one pound of onions, and cut them in slices. 

4. Take one pound of the scrag end of the neck of mut- 
ton, wash it in cold water, and scrape it clean with a knife. 

5. Put the meat on a board, and cut it up in small 
pieces. x 

6. Take a large saucepan ; put in a layer of meat, then 
a layer of potatoes, then a layer of onions. 

7. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over each layer for 
seasoning. 

8. Continue to fill the saucepan in this way till there 
is no meat or vegetables left. 

9. Pour in enough cold water to cover the bottom of 
the saucepan (about half a pint). 

10. Put the saucepan on the fire, and when it has come 



58 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

to the boil draw it to the side of the fire, and let it 
stew gently for from one hour and a half to two hours. 

11. Watch it, and stir it occasionally, to prevent its 
catching. 

12. For serving, turn the stew out on a hot dish. 

N. B. If a larger quantity of potato is required in the stew, the extra 
quantity should be parboiled (see note below), and then cut in slices 
and added to the stew, half an hour before it is ready for serving. 
If all the potatoes were put in with the meat at first, so much water 
would be required that the stew would be spoiled. 

N. B. For parboiling (or half-boiling) potatoes, wash them and peel 
them ; put them in a saucepan, with enough cold water to cover 
them ; put the saucepan on the fire, and let the potatoes boil for 
about half an hour. 



LESSON FOURTH. 
STEWED BRISKET OF BEEF. 

Ingredients. Seven pounds of brisket of beef. Two carrots. One turnip. 
Two onions. One head of celery. One leek. Bouquet garni (i. e., sprig 
of thyme, marjoram, and bay-leaf). Six cloves. Twelve pepper-corns. 
Six allspice. One tablespoonful of salt. 

Time required, about four hours. 

To make /Stewed Brisket of Beef, to be served cold : 

1. Take seven pounds of brisket of leef (not very fat) ; 
see that it is quite clean, and, if necessary, scrape it with 
a knife and wipe it with a clean cloth, and then put it 
into a large saucepan. 

2. Take two carrots, wash and scrape them clean, and 
cufc them in halves. 

3. Wash one turnip and two onions, and peel them, 
and cut the turnip in quarters. 



STEWS. 59 

4. Take one leek and one head of celery ', wash them 
well in water, cut the long green leaves off the leek, and 
the green tops from the celery. 

5. Add all these vegetables to the meat in the saucepan. 

6. Add also a bouquet garni of thyme, marjoram, and 
a "bay-leaf, tied tightly together, six cloves, twelve pepper- 
corns, six allspice, one tablespoonful of salt, and three 
quarts of cold water. 

7. Put the saucepan on the fire, and, when it comes to 
the boil, skim it well. 

8. Then move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and 
let the contents simmer gently for three hours. Watch 
it, and skim it occasionally. 

9. After that time, take the meat out of the saucepan 
and put it on a dish. 

10. Take a knife and carefully remove the flat bones at 
the side of the beef. 

11. Place the beef between two dishes, with some heavy 
weight on the top to press it. 

12. Pour the stock through a strainer into a basin, and, 
when it is cold, remove every particle of fat. 

13. Then pour the stock into a stewpan, and put it on 
the fire to boil, without the lid, so as to reduce the stock 
to a glaze, about a gill. 

14. Now take the beef, and, with a paste-brush, cover 
the joint with the glaze, brushing it over several times, 
until all the glaze is used up ; as soon as it is cold, and 
has set, the beef is ready for serving. 



CHAPTER VI. 
TRIPE. 

LESSON FIRST. 
CURRIED TRIPE. 

Ingredients. One pound of tripe. One-quarter of a pound of rice. One 
onion. Flour, sugar, and curry-powder. 

Time required, about three hours. 

To make a Curry of Tripe : 

1. Put one pound of tripe in a saucepan of cold water, 
and let it boil. Take it at once out of the water. 

N. B. This is called " blanching." 

2. After the tripe is blanched, scrape it with a knife, 
and thoroughly cleanse it. 

3. Cut the tripe up into small pieces. 

4. Take a saucepan and lay the pieces of tripe in it, 
and pour in enough cold water to cover it. 

5. Take a small onion and peel it, and cut it partially 
through. 

6. Put the onion into the saucepan of tripe. 

7. Put the saucepan on the fire, and, when it boils, re- 
move it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer for not 
less than two hours and a half. 



TRIPE. (ft 

8. After that time, try the tripe with a fork, and if it 
is sufficiently cooked, it will be very tender. 

9, Take the saucepan off the fire, and stand it on a 
piece of paper on the table. 

10. Take out the pieces of tripe with a fork, and put 
them on a dish. 

11. Take a small saucepan, and put in it one ounce of 
flour, one dessertspoonful of curry-powder, and half an 
ounce of dripping, and mix them all well together with a 
wooden spoon. 

12. Add enough cold water to make the above into a 
stiff paste. 

13. Now pour in half a pint of the liquor in which the 
tripe was boiled. 

14. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir the mixture 
well until it boils and thickens. Do not let it get lumpy. 

15. Stir in a quarter of a teaspoonful of orown sugar, 
and salt according to taste. Now stand the saucepan aside 
to get cool. 

16. Take the onion which was boiled with the tripe, and 
cut it in shreds, and add it to the sauce. 

17. When the sauce is a little cool, put in the pieces of 
tripe, and let them just warm through. 

18. Take a dish and warm it, and pour the tripe and 
sauce on it, keeping it as much in the centre of the dish 
as possible. 

19. Take a teacupful of rice, wash it well in two or 
three waters, and put it in a saucepan full of boiling 
water. Be sure the water is boiling. Add to it a salt- 
spoonful of salt. 

N. B. Rice should be boiled in plenty of water. 

20. Let it boil from a quarter of an hour to twenty 
minutes. After that time, feel the rice, to see if it is soft. 



62 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

21. When the rice is sufficiently cooked, strain it off, 
and pour cold water over it. 

22. Then put the rice back into the empty saucepan, 
and stand the saucepan by the side of the fire, to dry the 
rice. The lid should be only half on the saucepan. 

23. "When the rice is quite dry, take it out of the sauce- 
pan, and arrange it round the fripe. 



LESSON SECOND. 
TRIPE IN MILK. 

Ingredients. One pound of tripe. Three or four good-sized onions. One 
pint of milk. Seasoning and flour. 

Time required, about two hours and a half. 

To cook Tripe in Milk : 

1. Put one pound of tripe in a saucepan of cold water, 
to boil up and blanch. . When it boils, take it off the fire. 

2. Then take it out of the water, scrape it, and cleanse 
it thoroughly. 

3. Cut it up in small pieces on a board. 

4. Peel three or four good-sized onions, and cut them 
partially through. 

5. Put the tripe and onions into the saucepan, with 
one pint of milk. 

6. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil. 

7. When it boils, move it to the side of the fire, and 
let it simmer for not less than two hours. 

8. Then try it with a fork, and, if sufficiently cooked, 
it will be very tender. 

9. Take the saucepan off the fire, and stand it on a 
piece of paper on the table. 



TRIPE. 63 

10. Take the onions out of the saucepan, and put them 
on a board and chop them fine. 

11. Take the tripe out of the saucepan, and arrange it 
on a warm dish. 

12. Stand the dish near the fire, to keep warm. 

13. Take a dessertspoon/id of flour, and mix it to a 
smooth paste with cold milk. 

14. Stir, by degrees, the paste into the hot milk, and 
let it boil and thicken. 

15. Now stir the onion into the milk, and let it warm 
through. 

16. Season the onion-sauce according to taste, and pour 
it over the tripe. 



LESSON THIRD. 
TRIPE A LA COUTANCE. 

Ingredients. One pound of thin tripe. One-half a pound of bacon. One 
small carrot. Four mushrooms. One-half a large onion, or six small 
green ones. Bouquet garni. Two shallots and parsley. Two ounces of 
butter. One tablespoonf ul of Harvey sauce. One tablespoonful of mush- 
room catchup. One ounce of flour. One pint of stock. The juice of half 
a lemon. Salt and pepper. 

Time required, about two hours and a half. 

To cook Tripe a la Coutance : 

1. Wash the tripe well in cold water. 

2. Put the tripe in a stewpan, with cold water enough 
to cover it. 

3. Put the stewpan on the fire, and bring it to the boil. 

N. B. This is to blanch the tripe. 

4. Then take the tripe out of the stewpan, and dry it 
in a clean cloth. 



64: LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

5. Put the tripe on a board, and, with a sharp knife, 
cut it into strips about two inches wide and four inches in 
length. 

N. B. Only the thin part of the tripe can be used for Tripe d la Cou- 
tance. If there are any thick pieces, they can be cooked with milk 
and onions (see " Tripe," Lesson No. 2). 

6. Take the half pound of bacon and cut it into very- 
thin slices, the same size as the strips of tripe. 

7. Take one peeled shallot and two or three sprigs of 
parsley, and chop them fine on a board. 

8. Lay one slice of bacon on each strip of tripe, sprin- 
kle a little chopped shallot and parsley over each slice of 
bacon, roll them up together, and tie them firmly round 
with a piece of string. 

9. Take the carrot, wash it, scrape it clean with a 
knife, and cut it in slices. 

10. Take the half onion and the other shallot, peel them, 
and cut them in slices. 

11. Take a sprig of marjoram, thyme, and a hay-leaf, 
and tie them tightly together with a piece of string. 

12. Take the mushrooms, wash them, and cut off the 
ends of the stalks. 

13. Arrange the rolls of tripe and bacon in a stewpan. 

14. Add all the vegetables and the herbs. 

15. Pour in a pint of stock, and put the stewpan on the 
fire. 

16. When it just boils, remove the stewpan to the side 
of the fire, and let the contents simmer gently for two 
hours. 

17. After that time, take out the rolls of tripe and put 
them on a plate. 

18. Take a strainer, hold it over a basin, and strain the 
stock. 



TRIPE. 65 

19. Put two ounces of butter into another stewpan, and 
put it on the fire to melt. 

20. When the Gutter is melted, add to it one ounce of 
flour, and mix them smoothly together. 

21. Now add the stock, and stir it over the fire until it 
boils and thickens. 

22. Take half a lemon, and squeeze the juice of it into 
the sauce. 

N. B. Be careful not to let any pips fall in. 

23. Stir in one tdblespoonful of Harvey sauce and one 
tdblespoonful of mushroom catchup, and season with pep- 
per and salt. 

24. E"ow place in the rolls of tripe, and let them warm 
through. 

25. Serve the rolls of tripe in a circle on a hot dish, 
with some puree of carrot or spinach (see " Vegetables," 
Lessons Nos. 6 and 8), or with a mixture of vegetables 
(according to taste) in the centre, and pour the sauce 
round the edge. 



CHAPTER VII. 
ON COOKING MEAT. 

LESSON FIRST. 
BKAISED FILLET OF VEAL. 

Ingredients. Three and one-half pounds of the fillet of veal. One-half a 
pound of the fat of bacon. A bouquet garni of parsley, thyme, and bay- 
leaf. One onion. Three pints of good stock. Two young carrots. Celery 
and turnip. Salt, 

Time required, about one hour and a half. ( The stock should be made the day 
before.) 

To Braise a Fillet of Veal: 

1. Takes three and a half pounds of the fillet of veal, 
put it on a "board, and cut off all the skin with a sharp 
knife. 

2. Lard this fillet in the same way as for fillets of ~beef 
(see " Entrees," Lesson No. 3, from Note 3 to Note 7). 

3. Place the fillet carefully in a clean braising-pan. 

4. Add a bouquet garni, consisting of a sprig of par- 
sley, thyme, and a hay-leaf, all tied neatly and tightly 
together. 

5. Take two young carrots, wash them, scrape them 
clean with a knife, and cut them in halves. 



ON COOKING MEAT. 67 

6. Take an onion and a quarter of a turnip, and peel 
them carefully. 

7. Add these vegetables, and half a stick of celery, to 
the fillet in the braising-pan. 

8. Now pour in about three pints of good stock (the 
stock must not cover the meat), put the stewpan on the 
fire, and baste the fillet continually. 

9. Take a piece of kitchen-paper, cut a round to the 
size of the braising-pan, and Gutter it. 

10. As soon as the stock boils, lay this round of paper 
on the fillet in the stewpan. 

N. B. This paper is to prevent the meat from browning too quickly. 

11. Keep the lid of the braising-pan on 'and place it 
in a hot oven, and let it cook slowly for one hour and a 
quarter. 

12. Watch it, frequently raise the paper, and baste the 
veal with the stock. 

13. Take the veal out of the braising-pan, and place it 
on a hot dish. 

N. B. Stand this dish on the hot plate, or near the fire, to keep warm 
until the sauce is ready. 

14. Put the braising-pan on the fire, and let the sauce 
reduce to a half-glaze. 

15. Then strain the glaze round the meat. 

16. Serve it with dressed spinach (see "Vegetables," 
Lesson No. 8), or with dressed carrots and turnips (see 
" Vegetables," Lesson No. 6). 



flg LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON SECOND, 
BOAST BULLOCK'S HEAKT. 

Ingredients. One bullock's heart. One-quarter of a pound of suet. 
Three-quarters of a pound of bread-crumbs. A gill of milk. Salt and 
pepper. One tablespoonful of chopped parsley. One dessertspoonful of 
chopped mixed herbs thyme, lemon-thyme, and marjoram. One-quarter 
of a pound of dripping. For sauce : One small onion. Salt and pepper. 
One-half ounce of flour. One ounce of butter. One dessertspoonful of 
catchup. 

Time required, about two hours and a half. 

To Stuff a Bullock's Heart and Koast it : 

1. Prepare the fire for roasting, as described in " Roast- 
ing," Lesson No. 1.- 

2. "Wash a bullocks heart thoroughly in salt and water. 

3. Be careful to cleanse all the cavities of the heart, 
and to remove all the blood. 

4. Take it out of the salt and water and put it into a 
basin of clean water, and wash it again until it is quite 
clean. 

5. Now wipe it thoroughly on a dry cloth. 

6. If the heart is not quite dry, it will not roast prop- 
erly. 

7. Put the heart on a board, and, with a sharp knife, 
cut off the flaps or deaf ears (as they are called). 

N. B. These should be put aside for gravy. 

8. Take a quarter of a pound of suet, put it on a board, 
cut away all the skvn, and chop it up as fine as possible. 

9. Sprinkle a little flour over the suet, to prevent it 
from sticking to the board or knife. 

10. Grate some bread-crumbs with a grater on to the 
board. 



ON COOKING MEAT. 69 

11. Take two or three sprigs of parsley, wash them in 
cold water, and dry them in a cloth. 

12. Put the parsley on a board, and chop it up as fine 
as possible ; when chopped, there should be about one 
tablespoonful. 

13. Take a sprig of thyme, lemon-thyme, and marjoram, 
rub them through a strainer, or chop them up finely on a 
board ; there should be about one dessertspoonful of the 
mixed herbs. 

14. Now mix the chopped suet and bread-crumbs well 
together. 

15. Then add the parsley and the herbs, one teaspoonful 
of salt, and pepper to taste, and mix them thoroughly 
together. 

16. Now mix it with one gill of milk. 

17. Take the heart and fill all the cavities with the 
stuffing, pressing it in as firmly as possible. 

N. B. If there is any stuffing over, it can be put aside for the sauce. 

18. Take a piece of kitchen-paper and grease it well 
with a piece of butter or dripping. 

19. Place this piece of greased paper over the top of 
the heart where the cavities are, and tie it on tightly with 
a string. 

20. Put the roasting-oven in front of the fire. 

21. Put the dripping-pan, or a large dish, down on a 
stand within the oven, close to the fire, with the dripping- 
ladle or a large spoon in it. 

22. Hang the roasting-jack up in the oven, over the 
dripping-pan. 

N. B. If there is no roasting-jack, you can manage with a strong 
piece of worsted tied to a hook in the top of the oven. 



70 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

23. Wind up the jack with its key before you put the 
meat on. 

24. Take the hook of the roasting-jack and pass it 
through the heart, and hang it on the jack or the worsted. 

N. B. If the heart is hanging to a piece of worsted, twist the worsted 
occasionally, to make it go round. 

25. Put about one ounce of clarified dripping into the 
dripping-pan, and baste the heart occasionally. 

26. It will take about two hours to roast. 

27. Now take the deaf ears out of the water and put 
them into a saucepan, with one pint of cold water. 

28. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil. 

29. Take one small onion, peel it, and cut it in quarters. 

30. When the water boils, put in the onion, and a little 
salt and pepper to taste. 

31. Now move the saucepan to the side of the fire, put 
the lid on, and let it stew gently until five minutes before 
the heart is done. 

32. Watch it, and skim it occasionally. 

33. After that time, strain the liquor into a basin. 

34. Wash out the saucepan and put in it one ounce of 
butter, and put it on the fire to melt. 

35. When the butter is melted, add one tablespoonfui 
offiour, and mix them smoothly together with a wooden 
spoon. 

36. Now pour the liquor in by degrees, and stir smoothly 
until it boils and thickens. 

37. Then stand the saucepan by the side of the fire 
until required for use. 

38. When the heart is roasted, take it down, place it on 
a hot dish, and draw out the hook. 

39. Cut the string, and take off the greased paper. 



ON COOKING MEAT. 71 

40. If there be any stuffing left over, stir it now into 
the sauce, and add one dessertspoonful of mushroom catchup. 

N. B. If the flavoring of mushroom catchup is disliked, it may be 
omitted. 

41. Pour the sauce round the heart on the dish, and it 
is ready for serving. 



LESSON THIRD. 
COENISH PASTIES. 

Ingredients. One-half a pound of buttock steak, or beef skirt. Half a 
pound of potatoes. One onion. One pound of flour. One-half a pound 
of dripping. Salt and pepper., One teaspoonful of baking-powder. 

Time required, about one hour. 

To make Cornish Pasties : 

1. Take half a pound of buttock steak, or ~beef shirt, 
put it on a board, and cut it up into small pieces. 

2. Take half a pound of 'potatoes ', wash and peel them, 
put them on a board, and cut them up into small pieces. 

3. Take one small onion, peel it, put it on a board, 
and chop it up as fine as possible. 

4. Put one pound of flour into a basin, with a little 
salt and a teaspoonful of baking-powder. 

5. Put in half a pound of dripping, and rub it well 
into the flour with your hands. 

6. Now add enough cold water to mix it into a stiff 
paste. 

7. Flour a board, and turn the paste on to it. 

8. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll the paste out 
into a thin sheet, about a quarter of an inch in thickness. 

9. Cut the paste into pieces about six or seven inches 
square. 



72 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

10. Place a little of the meat and potato in the centre of 
each square ; sprinkle over it a little pepper and salt, and 
a very little of the chopped onion. 

11. Fold the paste over the meat, joining it by pressing 
the edges together with your thumb and finger. 

12. Grease a baking-tin, and put the pasties on it. 

N. B. If there is no baking-tin, grease the shelf in the oven, to pre- 
vent the pasties from sticking. 

13. Put the tin into the oven to bake for from half an 
hour to three-quarters of an hour. 

14. For serving, put the pasties on a dish. 



LESSON FOURTH. 
A GRILLED OK BROILED STEAK. 

Ingredients. One-half a pound of rump steak. Lemon, pepper, and salt. 
Butter and salad-oil. 

Time required, about ten minutes. 

To Grill a Steak (either ~beef or rump stealc will do, 
but the latter is more tender) : 

1. Take a small bunch of parsley, wash it, dry it well 
in a cloth, and put it on a board. 

2. Chop the parsley up very fine with a knife. 

3. Take a quarter of an ounce of ~butter and mix it 
well with the chopped parsley. 

4. Sprinkle over it pepper and salt (according to taste), 
and six drops of lemon-juice. 

5. Make it all up into a small pat. 

6. Take half a pound of rump steak, half an inch in 
thickness. 

7. Pour about a tablespoonful of salad-oil on to a plate. 



OX COOKING MEAT. 73 

8. Dip both sides of the steak into the oil. 

9. Take a gridiron and warm it well by the fire. 

10. Place the oiled steak on the gridiron, close to the 
fire, to cook quickly. 

N.B. If the meat is at all frozen, it must be warmed gradually 
through before putting it quite near the fire, or it will be tough. 

11. Turn the gridiron with the steak occasionally; it 
will take from ten to twelve minutes, according to the 
brightness and heat of the fire. 

12. When the steak is sufficiently cooked, place it on a 
hot dish; and be careful not to stick the fork into the 
meat (or the gravy will run out), but into the fat. 

13. Take the pat of green butter and put it on the steak, 
spreading it all over with a knife. 



LESSON FIFTH. 
LIVER AND BACON. 

Ingredients. Two pounds of sheep's liver. One pound of bacon. One 
dessertspoonful of flour. One small onion. 

Time required, about half an hour. 

To Cook Liver and Bacon : 

1. Take one pound of bacon, put it on a board, and 
cut it in thin slices. 

2. Cut the rind off each slice of bacon. 

3. Put these slices of bacon into a frying-pan. 

4. Put the frying-pan on the fire, to fry the bacon it 
will take about ten minutes. 

N. B. If the bacon is not very fat, put a small piece of dripping in 
the frying-pan with it. 

5. Turn it when one side is fried. 



74 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

6. Now take a sheep's liver (it will weigh about two 
pounds), put it on a board, and cut it in slices. 

7. Put about two tablespoonfuls of flour on a plate. 

8. Dip the slices of liver into the flour, and flour them 
well on both sides. 

9. When the "bacon is fried, take it out of the frying- 
pan and put it on a warm dish. 

10. Stand the dish near the fire, to keep warm. 

11. Put the slices of liver in the frying-pan, a few at a 
time, as they must not be on the top of each other. 

N. B. If the flavor of onion is liked, a small onion, peeled and cut in 
slices, might be fried with the liver. 

12. The liver will take about a quarter of an hour to fry. 

13. Watch it occasionally, and turn it once. 

14. To see when the Uver is sufficiently cooked, cut a 
slice ; the inside should be of a brownish color. 

15. When the liver is all- cooked, place it on the dish 
with the bacon. 

16. Put a dessertspoonful of flour in a cup, and mix it 
into a smooth paste with nearly a gill of water. 

17. Pour the flour and water into the frying-pan, and 
stir it until it boils and thickens. 

18. Pour this sauce over the liver and "bacon. 



LESSON SIXTH. 
MEAT PIE (BEEF STEAK). 

Ingredients. One pound and a half of buttock steak. Half a pound of 
bullock's kidney. Seasoning. One pound of flour. One-half a pound of 
clarified dripping. One teaspoonful of baking-powder. 

Time required, about two hours and a quarter. 

To make Meat Pie : 

1. Cut into thin slices one pound and a half of "buttock 
steaJc. 



ON COOKING MEAT. 75 

2. Cut away all the skin. 

3. Put on a plate half a pound of bullock's kidney, and 
cut it in thin slices. 

4. Mix well together, on a plate, one tdblespoonful of 
flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper. 

5. Dip each slice of meat and kidney into the season- 
ing, and roll them up into little rolls. 

6. Arrange these rolls in a quart pie-dish, and fill it 
two-thirds full of water. 

7. Put one pound of flour into a basin. 

8. Add one teaspoonful of baking-powder and half a salt- 
spoonful of salt to the flour, and mix them well together. 

9. Cut half a pound of clarified dripping in small 
pieces, and rub it well into ihejlour with your hands. 

N. B. Be careful that there are no lumps of dripping in the flour. 

10. Then add, by degrees, enough cold water to make 
it into a stiff paste. 

11. Take a rolling-pin and flour it ; sprinkle flour on 
the board, and flour your hands, to prevent the paste 
from sticking. 

12. Take the paste out of the basin and put it on a board. 

13. Roll out the paste once to the shape of the pie-dish, 
only rather larger, and to the thickness of about one-third 
of an inch. 

14. "Wet the edge of the dish with water. 

15. Take a knife, dip it in flour, and cut a strip of the 
paste the width of the edge of the pie-dish, and place it 
round the edge of the dish. 

N. B. Cut this strip of paste from round the edge of the paste, leav- 
ing the centre piece the size and shape of the top of the pie-dish. 

16. Wet the edge of the paste with water. 



^6 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

17. Take the remaining paste and place it over the pie- 
dish, pressing it down with your thumb all round the edge. 

N. B. Be very careful not to break the paste. 

18. Take a knife, dip it in flour, and trim off all the 
rough edges of the paste round the edge of the dish. 

19. Take a knife, and with the back of the blade make 
little notches in the edge of the paste, pressing the paste 
firmly with your thumb, to keep it in its proper place. 

N. B. Ornament the top of the pie with any remaining paste, to your 
fancy. 

20. Make a hole with the knife in the centre of the pie, 
to let out the steam while the pie is baking. 

N. B. If there be not an escape for the steam, it will sodden the 
inside of the crust, and so prevent it from baking properly. 

21. Put the pie into the oven, to bake gently for two 
hours. Watch it occasionally, and turn it to prevent its 
burning. It should become a pale brown. 

N. B. Meat pie should be put in the hottest part of the oven first 
which in most ovens is the top to make the crust light, and then 
put in a cooler part, to cook the meat thoroughly. 

N. B. This pie could be made with veal or mutton, instead of steak. 



LESSON SEVENTH. 
MEAT PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Six ounces of suet. One pound of flour. One teaspoonful 
of baking-powder. Seasoning. One pound and a half of buttock steak. 
Half a pound of bullock's kidney. 

Time required, about tico hours and a half. 

To make a Meat Pudding : 

1. Put a large saucepan full of cold water on the fire 
to boil. 



ON COOKING MEAT. 77 

2. Put six ounces of suet on a board. 

3. Cut away all the skin and chop up the suet as fine 
as possible, and sprinkle a little flour over it, to prevent 
its sticking. 

4. Put one pound of flour into a basin, and add to it 
a teaspoonful of baking-powder and half a salt-spoonful 
of salt y and mix all well together. 

5. Now add the chopped suet, and rub it well into the 
flour with your hands. 

N. B. Be careful not to have any lumps of suet. 

6. Add, by degrees, about half a pint of cold water, 
to make it into a paste ; mix it well. 

7. Put one teaspoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of 
pepper on a plate, and mix them together. 

8. Take one pound and a half of l)uttock steak on a 
board, and cut it in slices about three inches long and two 
inches broad. 

N.B. You must cut away all the skin. 

9. Put half a pound of kidney on a board, and cut it 
in slices. 

10. Dip each slice of meat and Mdney into the plate of 
seasoning. 

11. Take a quart basin, and grease it well inside with 
dripping. 

12.- Take a rolling-pin and. four it; sprinkle a very 
little flour on the board, to prevent the paste sticking. 

N. B. In making paste, always keep your hands well floured, to pre- 
vent its sticking to them. 

13. Take the paste out of the basin and put it on the 
board. 

14. Cut off about one-third of \\\G paste, and lay it aside 
for the cover or top of the pudding. 



78 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

15. Roll out the remainder of the paste to a round 
twice the size of the top of the basin ; it should be about 
one-third of an inch in thickness. 

16. Line the basin inside smoothly with the paste. 

17. Place the slices of meat and kidney in the basin, 
fitting them neatly. 

18. Pour in about one gill and a half of water, so as to 
fill the basin to within half an inch of the top. 

19. Roll the remaining pieces of paste to a round the 
size of the top of the basin, and about a quarter of an inch 
in thickness. 

20. Wet the edge of the paste in the basin with cold 
water, and cover over the top of the basin with the round 
of paste. 

21. Join the paste together at the edge of the basin, 
pressing the edges together with your thumb. 

22. Take a knife, flour it, and trim the edges of the 
paste neatly round. 

23. Take a small pudding-cloth, wring it out in warm 
water, %&& flour it. 

24. Put this cloth over the top of the basin, tying it on 
tightly with a piece of string under the rim of the basin. 

25. Tie the four corners of the cloth together over the 
top of the pudding. 

26. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
put in the pudding, and let it boil for two hours. 

N. B. The lid should be on the saucepan. 

N. B. Keep a kettle of boiling water, and fill up the saucepan as the 
water in it boils away. 

27. After that time, take the pudding out of the sauce- 
pan, and take off the cloth. 

28. Place a hot dish on the top of the pudding, turn 



ON COOKING MEAT. 79 

the basin and dish quite over, and, carefully raising the 
basin, leave the pudding in the middle of the dish, un- 
broken. 

N. B. This pudding might be made of beef skirt or Australian beef. 



LESSON EIGHTH. 
PIG J 8 FRY. 1 

Ingredients. One pound of pig's fry. Two and a half pounds of potatoes. 

One onion. Sage and seasoning. 
Time required, about an hour and a quarter. 

To cook Pig's Fry "Poor Marts Goose " ; 

1. Take two and a half pounds of potatoes and put 
them in a basin of cold water. 

2. Take a scrubbing-brush and wash the potatoes well. 

3. Put the potatoes into a saucepan of cold water. 

4. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil. 

5. As soon as it boils, take the potatoes out of the water 
(N.B. This is called "parboiling" potatoes), peel them, 
and cut them in slices with a sharp knife. 

6. Take one onion and peel it. 

7. Take two or three sage-leaves and put them on a 
board. 

8. Chop up the onion and sage together on the board 
with a sharp knife. 

9. Take one pound of pig's fry and cut it in small 
pieces. 

10. Take a quart pie-dish and grease the dish with drip- 
ping or fat. 

11. Put a layer of sliced potatoes in the bottom of the 
pie-dish. 

1 Pig's Fry is composed of the heart, liver, lights, and sweet-bread. 
5 



80 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

12. Sprinkle a little of the chopped sage and onion, 
pepper and salt, over the potatoes. 

13. Now put in a layer of the pig's fry. 

14. Sprinkle a little of the chopped sage and onion, 
pepper and salt, over the pig's fry. 

15. Now add another layer of sliced potatoes, and sprin- 
kle them with a little of the chopped sage and onion, 
pepper and s#^. 

16. Put in another layer of pig's fry, and sprinkle the 
remainder of the chopped sage and onion, and a little 
pepper and salt, on the top. 

17. Cover these layers with the rest of the sliced pota- 
toes. 

18. Now fill up the pie-dish with water for gravy. 

19. Take the skin usually sent with the pig's fry and 
put it over the top of the pie-dish. 

20. If the skin is not sent, take a piece of whity-brown 
paper, and grease it with some dripping or fat, and put 
that over the pie-dish instead. 

21. Put the pie-dish into a moderate oven, to bake for 
from three-quarters of an hour to one hour. 



LESSON NINTH. 
BOILED PIG'S HEAD (SALTED), WITH ONION-SAUCE. 

Ingredients. Half a pig's head. Forty pepper-corns. Two blades of mace. 
Four cloves. Twelve allspice. A bunch of herbs. Two large onions. 

Time required (after salting) for boiling pig^s head, about two hours ; for 
making into brawn, two hours. 

To Boil Pig's Head : 

1. Wash a pig's head thoroughly in plenty of tepid 
water. 



ON COOKING MEAT. 81 

2. Take out the brains and throw them away. 

3. Cut out the little veins, and all the splinters of bone. 

4. Wash the head in all parts with plenty of salt, thor- 
oughly cleansing it from blood. 

5. Lay the head in pickle (see " Pickle for Meat ") for 
three days. 

6. "When the head is salted, put it into a saucepan, 
with cold water enough to cover it. 

7. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil. 

8. When it boils, draw the saucepan to the side of the 
fire, and let it simmer gently for from one hour and a half 
to two hours, according to the size and age of the pig. 

N. B. Boiled pig*s head is eaten with boiled rabbit, or with veal, or 
with onion-sauce. 

N. B. If preferred, the pig's head can be made into brawn (see below). 

FOB ONION-SAUCE. 

Ingredients. Three onions. Three gills of milk. A dessertspoonful of 
flour. Half an ounce of butter. Pepper and salt. 

For making Onion- Sauce : 

9. Take three or four onions, peel them, and cut them 
in quarters. 

10. Put them into a saucepan, with water enough to 
cover them. 

11. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil, until the onions 
are quite tender. 

12. Then strain them off, throw the water away, put 

t/ * i 

the onions on a board, and chop them up small. 

13. Throw the onions into a saucepan, with three gills 
of milk, put it on the fire, and let it come to the boil. 

14. Put a dessertspoonful of flour into a basin, and mix 
it, with half an ounce of butter, into a paste with a knife. 



82 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

15. Stir this paste smoothly into the boiling milk and 
onions, and continue to stir it until it boils. 

16. Season the sauce with pepper and salt to taste, and 
then move the saucepan to the side of the fire, to keep 
warm till required for use. 

17. Take a grater and grate some bread-crumbs on to a 
plate. 

18. Put the plate in the stove oven, or in a tin oven, to 
brown the bread-crumbs. 

19. When the pig's head is sufficiently boiled, take it 
out of the saucepan and put it on a hot dish. 

20. Take out the half tongue, skin it, and put it back 
on the dish with the head. 

21. Sprinkle the browned bread-crumbs over the pig's 
head, and pour the onion-sauce round it ; or, if preferred, 
it may be served separately in a sauce-boat. 

For making the Picfs Head into Brawn : 

1. Salt and boil the pig's head in the same way as 
above, from Note 1 to Note 8. 

2. When the pig's head is sufficiently boiled, take it 
out of the saucepan and put it on a board. 

3. Cut all the meat off the bones, and cut it into small 
pieces the shape of dice; also cut up the ear and the 
tongue (the tongue should be previously skinned). 

4. Put the bones back into the saucepan, with a quart 
of the liquor in which the head was boiled, forty pepper- 
corns, two blades of mace, four cloves, and twelve allspice. 

5. Add also a bunch of herbs (viz., a sprig of marjo- 
ram, thyme, and two bay-leaves), tied tightly together. 

6. Peel two onions, cut them in quarters, and put them 
in the saucepan. 

7. Put the saucepan on the fire and let it come to a 



ON COOKING MEAT. 83 

boil ; then remove the lid, and let the liquor reduce for 
about half an hour. 

8. Then strain the liquor into a basin. 

9. Pour one pint and a half of the strained liquor 
back into the saucepan, and put it on the fire. 

10. Now put the pieces of meat into the liquor, season 
it with pepper (and salt, if necessary) to taste, and let it 
come to boiling. 

11. Einse a basin or tin mould in cold water. 

12. Then pour the meat and the liquor together into 
the wet basin or tin, and stand it aside to get cold and set. 

13. For serving, turn the brawn out of the basin on to 
a dish. 



LESSON TENTH. 
PORK PIE. 

Ingredients. One-quarter of a pound of lard. One pound of pork (either 
loin or leg). Seasoning. One pound of flour. One egg. 

Time required, two hours and a half. 

To make a Pork Pie : 

1. Put a quarter of a pound of lard and a quarter of 
a pint of cold water into a large saucepan. 

2. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil. 

N. B. Watch it, as, if it boils over, it will catch fire. 

3. Take one pound of lean pork (cut either from the 
loin or leg), put it on a board, and cut it in pieces about 
one inch square. 

4. Put one pound of flour into a basin. 

5. When the lard and water are quite boiling, pour 
them into the middle of the flour, and mix them well 
with a spoon. 



84 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

6. When the paste is cool enough, knead it well with 
your hands. 

N. B. More water must not be added, as the paste is required to be 
rather stiff. 

7. Take the paste out of the basin and put it on a 
floured board. 

8. Cut off a quarter of the paste, and mould the re- 
mainder into the shape of a ~basin, pressing it inside with 
one hand and supporting it outside with the other. 

9. Shape it as evenly as possible, and it should be 
about one-third of an inch in thickness all round. 

10. Take a knife, flour it, and cut the top of the shape 
level all round. 

11. Dip the pieces of pork into cold water, then season 
them well with pepper and salt. 

12. Put these pieces inside the mould of paste, as close 
together as possible. 

N. B. The pie can be flavored, if liked, with chopped sage about a 
teaspoonful sprinkled well among the pieces of pork. 

13. Take the remainder of the paste and roll it out with 
a floured rolling-pin, and cut it to the size of the top of 
the mould, and to about the thickness of one-third of an 
inch. 

14. Take an egg and break it into two cups, separating 
the yolk from the white. 

15. Take a paste-brush, dip it into the white of egg, and 
egg the edge of the mould of paste. 

16. Take the piece of paste and put it over the top of 
\\iQpie, pressing the edges together with your thumb. 

17. Cut little leaves out of the remaining paste, dip 
them in the white of egg, and stick them on the top of 
the pie. 



ON COOKING MEAT. 85 

18. Wet the pie all over with the yolk of egg. 

19. Put the pie in a moderate oven, to bake for i/wo 
hours. 



LESSON ELEVENTH. 
SAUSAGE-BOLLS. 

Ingredients. One-half pound of cooked (or uncooked) meat. One pound 
of flour. One-half pound dripping. One teaspoonful of baking-powder. 
Seasoning. One-half a shallot. One small onion. Four sage-leaves. 
One egg. 

Time required, half an hour. 

To make Sausage-Rolls : 

1. Put half a pound of meat (cooked or uncooked) on 
a board, take away all the fat, and mince it up as fine as 
possible. 

2. Put the mince-meat in a basin and season it well 
with pepper and salt. 

3. Put four sage-leaves on a board and chop them up 
as fine as possible with a knife. 

4. Peel half a shallot and one small onion, and chop 
them up on a board. 

5. Mix the chopped sage, shallot, and onion well into 
the mince-meat with a spoon. 

6. Put one pound of flour into a basin. 

7. Add to it one teaspoonful of baking-powder ', a quar- 
ter of a salt-spoonful of salt, and half a pound of clari- 
fied dripping. 

8. Rub the dripping well into the flour with your 
hands. 

N. B. Mix it thoroughly, and be careful not to leave any lumps. 

9. Add enough water to the flour to make it into a 

stiff paste. 



gg LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

10. Flour the paste-board. 

11. Turn the paste out on the board. 

N. B. Divide the paste in two, so as not to handle it too much. 

12. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out each por- 
tion into a thin sheet, about one-eighth of an inch in 
thickness. 

13. Cut the paste into pieces about six inches square. 

14. Collect all the scraps of paste (so that none is wast- 
ed), fold them together, and roll them out and cut them 
into squares. 

N. B. There should be about one dozen squares of paste. 

15. Put about a tdblespoonful of the mince-meat and 
herbs into the centre of each square of paste. 

16. Fold the paste round the meat, joining it smoothly- 
round the centre, and pressing the ends of the paste to- 
gether with your finger and thumb. 

17. Take a baking-tin, grease it well, and place the 
sausage-rolls on it. 

18. Break one egg on to a plate, and beat it slightly 
with a knife. 

19. Take a paste-brush, dip it in the egg, and paint over 
the tops of the rolls. 

20. Place the tin in a hot oven, to bake for fifteen min- 
utes, if the meat is already coolced ; but if raw meat is 
used, then half an hour is required. 

N. B. Look at them once or twice, and turn them if necessary, so 
that they shall be equally baked. 

21. For serving, take the rolls off the tin and place 
them on a hot dish. 



ON COOKING MEAT. 87 

LESSON TWELFTH. 
SEA PIE. 

Ingredients. Two pounds of buttock steak. Two onions. One small 
carrot. One-half a turnip. Pepper and salt. Three-quarters of a pound 
of flour. One-quarter of a pound of suet. One teaspoonful of baking- 
powder. 

Time required^ two hours. 

To make Sea Pie : 

1. Cut two pounds of steak into thin slices on a board, 
with a sharp knife. 

2. Peel two onions, and slice them as thin as possible. 

3. Take a small carrot and half a turnip, wash them, 
scrape the carrot clean with a knife, peel the turnip, and 
cut them in thin slices. 

4. Season the slices of meat with pepper and salt to 
taste. 

5. Put the slices of meat in layers in a two-quart 
saucepan, sprinkling a little of the sliced vegetables on each 
layer of the meat. 

6. Pour in enough cold water just to cover the meat. 

7. Put the saucepan on the fire, just bring it to the 
boil, and then move it to the side of the fire to simmer. 

N. B. During this time make the crust. 

8. Take a quarter of a pound of suet, put it on a 
board, cut away all the skin, and chop it up as fine as 
possible. 

9. Sprinkle a little flour over the suet, to prevent it 
sticking to the board or knife. 

10. Put three-quarters of a pound of flour into a basin, 
and mix into it half a salt-spoonful of salt and one tea- 
spoonful of baking-powder. 



88 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

11. Now put in the chopped suet, and rub it well into 
the flour with your hands. 

12. Add enough cold water to mix it into a stiff paste. 

13. Flour a board and turn the paste out on it. 

14. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out the paste to 
the size of the saucepan. 

15. This quantity of paste will roll out to the size of a 
two-quart saucepan, so that, if a smaller saucepan is used, 
less paste will be required. 

16. Put this paste over the meat in the saucepan, and 
let it simmer gently for one hour and a half. 

N. B. The lid should be on the saucepan. 

17. "Watch it, and be careful to pass a knife round the 
sides of the saucepan, or the paste will stick. 

N. B. Sailors add sliced potatoes to the pie when they can get them. 

18. For serving, carefully remove the crust, turn the 
meat, vegetables, and gravy on to a hot dish, and place the 
crust over it. 



LESSON THIRTEENTH. 



Ingredients. One sheep's head. Salt. Four pepper-corns. Two turnips. 
One carrot. One onion. One-half a small head of celery. One sprig of 
thyme. Two sprigs of parsley. Toasted crusts of bread. Half an ounce 
of flour. One ounce of clarified dripping, or half an ounce of butter. 

Time required (after the sheep's head has been soaked for two hours), one hour 
and a half. 

To cook Sheets Head : 

1. Put in a basin of warm water a sheep's head (which 
has been chopped half-way through by a butcher), with a 
dessertspoonful of salt. 



ON COOKING MEAT. 89 

2. "Wash the head thoroughly, remove the brains (which 
should be put aside), and all the splinters of the bones. 

3. Wash all the blood and matter from the passages of 
the nose, throat, and ears, and clean round the gums. 

N. B. If this is not well done, the sheep's head will be spoiled. 

4. Now put the sheep's head in a basin of salt and 
water, to soak for two hours. 

5. After the head has been soaked, take it out of the 
water and cut out the tongue with a knife. 

6. Tie the head together with a piece of string, to 
keep it in shape. 

7. Put the head and tongue in a large saucepan. 

8. Pour in sufficient lukewarm water to cover the 
head. 

9. Add a good salt-spoonful of salt and four pepper- 
corns. 

N. B. If liked, one ounce of pearl barley or rice, previously washed, 
may now be added. 

10. Put the saucepan on the fire and let it boil very 
gently for one hour. 

11. "Watch it, and skim it occasionally with a spoon, 
removing as much of ihefat as possible. 

12. Take two turnips, wash them in cold water, peel 
them, and cut them in quarters with a sharp knife. 

13. Take a carrot, scrape it clean with a knife, and cut 
it in pieces. 

14. Take a good-sized onion, peel it, and cut it in quar- 
ters. 

15. Take half a small head of celery and two sprigs of 
parsley, and wash them in cold water. 

16. When the sheets head has boiled for an hour* add 
all these vegetables. 



90 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

17. Add also one sprig of thyme. 

18. JSTow move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and 
let it simmer gently for one hour and a half. 

N. B. The lid should be on the saucepan. 

19. Half an hour before the sheep's head is finished, 
wash the brains well in cold water (removing all the skin). 

20. Tie the brains up in a piece of muslin and put them 
in the saucepan with the head, to boil for ten minutes. 

21. Put one ounce of clarified dripping, or half an ounce 
of butter, into a small saucepan. 

22. Put the saucepan on the fire, to melt the dripping, 
and then add half an ounce of flour, and mix them well 
together with a spoon. 

23. Take one gill of broth from the saucepan in which 
the head is boiling, and add it by degrees to the sauce, 
stirring it as smoothly as possible until it boils and thickens. 

24. Now move the saucepan to the side of the fire. 

25. When the brains have boiled for ten minutes, take 
them out of the saucepan, take them out of the muslin, 
and chop them up in small pieces with a knife. 

26. Add the brains to the sauce. 

27. When the sheets head is sufficiently cooked, take it 
out of the saucepan, cut away the string, and place it on a 
warm dish. 

28. Take the tongue, skin it carefully, and place it on the 
same dish. 

29. Take out the turnips, put them in a basin, and 
rraash them with a fork. 

30. Take out the carrot, and arrange it alternately with 
the mashed turnips round the sheep's head. 

31. Take the brain-sauce and pour it over the sheep 's 
head* 



ON COOKING MEAT. 91 

32. Pour the broth carefully into a basin, without the 
bread or vegetables. 

N. B. Bread or vegetables should never be kept in broth, as they 
would turn it sour. 

33. Put the basin of broth away until required for use. 

N. B. All the fat should be removed from the broth before it is used. 
N. B. When the broth is required for use, a few toasted crusts of 

bread might be added, and a little chopped parsley. 
N. B. The fat from the broth should be melted down into dripping. 

If the Sheep 1 } s Head be preferred browned : 

1. Proceed as above (see from Note 1 to Note IT). 

2. Then move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and 
let it simmer gently for one hour. 

N. B. The lid should be on the saucepan. 

3. Take a piece of stale bread, and grate a tablespoon- 
ful of bread-crumbs with a grater. 

4. Mix with these crumbs a teaspoonful of parsley and 
a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, chopped fine. 

5. When the head has simmered for one hour, take it 
out of the saucepan. 

6. Cut the string round it, and lay it on a dish. 

7. Sprinkle the bread-crumbs and herbs over the head, 
and put a few tiny pieces of dripping on it. 

8. Put the dish in the oven, or in front of the fire, for 
ten or fifteen minutes. It will then be ready for serving. 

9. Take the brains and wash them well in cold water 
(removing all skin). 

10. Tic them up in a piece of muslin and put them in 
the saucepan of broth (in which the sheep's head was 
boiled), to boil for ten minutes. 

N. B. For serving, the tongue should be skinned, as above, and served 
separately with the brain-sauce (see above, from Note 21 to Note 27). 

11. Proceed with the broth the same as above, from 
Note 32. 



92 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON FOURTEENTH. 
STEWED STEAK. 

Ingredients. One pound of rump steak. One carrot. One turnip. Two 
sticks of celery. One onion. One ounce of butter. One tablespoonful 
of flour. Pepper and salt. 

Time required, about one hour. 

To Stew a Steak (either beef or rump the latter is 
more tender) : 

1. Put one pound of rump steak, one and a half inch 
in thickness, on a board. 

2. Cut off all the skin and fat from the steak. 

3. Wash one carrot, one turnip, and a few celery-leaves, 
in cold water. 

4. Scrape the carrot clean with a sharp knife. 

5. Cut the turnip in half (as not all will be required), 
and peel off the outside skin. 

6. Peel the carrot and turnip into thin ribbons with a 
sharp knife, leaving just the centre of each vegetable. 

7. Peel one onion and put it on a board. 

8. Shred the onion and celery. 

9. Put one ounce of Gutter in a stewpan, and lay the 
steak in it to brown. 

10. Put the onion, celery, and the remains of the car- 
rot and turnip, after peeling, into the stewpan with the 
steak. 

11. Put the stewpan on the fire. 

12. Look occasionally at the steak, and when it is suffi- 
ciently browned on one side, turn it carefully over, to 
brown the other. 

13. When the steak is sufficiently browned on both 
sides, then put in the vegetables. 



ON COOKING MEAT. 93 

14. Take a basin and put in it a tablespoonful of flour, 
half a teaspoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, 
and mix them together with a wooden spoon, and one pint 
of water or stock. 

15. Stir them all well together into a smooth sauce. 

16. Pour this sauce into the stewpan with the steak and 
vegetables, and stir all together until it boils and thickens. 

17. Let it gently simmer one hour. 

18. Take the fat which you have cut off the steak, and 
cut it into small pieces. 

19. Put the pieces of fat on a tin dish. 

20. Put the fat in the oven to cook till brown. 

N. B. It is better for stewed steak to cook the fat separately, as it 
keeps the gravy of the steak free from grease. 

21. Take the thin peelings from the carrot and turnip, 
and put them on a board and shred them finely with a 
sharp knife. 

22. Put these shredded vegetables into a small saucepan, 
with about a gill of cold water. 

23. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let it boil until 
the vegetables are quite tender when tried with a fork. 

24. When the steak is sufficiently stewed, put it on a 
hot dish. 

25. Take a strainer and strain the gravy, in which the 
steak has-been stewed, over the steak. 

26. The stewed vegetables must be thrown away, as all 
the goodness is out of them. 

27. Take the tin dish out of the oven, and place the 
pieces of fat about on the steak. 

28. Take the boiled shredded vegetables and garnish the 
steak with them. 

N. B. Any other vegetables can be used for garnishing i. e., peas, 
French beans, asparagus, etc. 



94 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON FIFTEENTH. 
TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE. 

Ingredients. Six ounces of flour. One egg. One pint of milk. One and 
a half pound of meat (beef or mutton). Seasoning. 

Time required, about one hour and three-quarters. 

To make Toad-in-the-Hole : 

1. Put six ounces of flour into a basin, with half a 
salt-spoonful of salt. 

2. Break one egg into the flour, and stir in smoothly, 
and by degrees, one pint of milk. 

N. B. Be careful that it is not lumpy. 

3. Beat it up as much as possible, as it will make the 
batter lighter. 

4. Take one pound of meat, put it on a board, and cut 
it in neat pieces. 

N. B. Buttock steak, beef skirt, or any pieces of mutton, might be used ; 
for instance, the short bones from the neck of mutton. Sausages or 
cold meat might very well be used. 

5. Take a pie-dish, or a tin, and grease it inside with 
clarified dripping. 

6. Season the pieces of meat with pepper and salt, and 
place them in the greased dish. 

7. Pour the batter over the meat, and put the dish in 
the oven to bake for one hour. 

8. After that time it is ready for serving. 



CHAPTER VIII. 
COOKING POULTRY. 



IESSON FIRST. 
TRUSSING A FOWL FOB BOASTING. 

Ingredients. One fowl. One ounce of butter. One large roll. One 
onion. Half a pint of milk. Five pepper-corns. Salt. One tablespoon- 
ful of cream. 

Time required, about three-quarters of an hour. 

To prepare a Fowl and Truss it for Roasting : 

1. Take a suitable fowl that has been already plucked, 
and put it on a board. 

2. Turn the fowl on its breast, and make an incision of 
an inch long down the neck, three inches below the head. 

3. Pass your thumb round this incision, and loosen the 
skin. 

4. Take a sharp knife and pufc it under the skim, and 
cut off the neck as low down as possible. 

5. Be careful, in cutting off the neck, to leave a piece 
of skin to fold over on to the back of the neck and cover 
the opening. 

6. Take out the crop, which lies in the front of the 
neck. 



96 LESSONS IN COOKERY, 

7. Then, with your finger, loosen the liver and the 
other parts at the breast-end. 

8. Now turn the fowl round, and make an incision at 
the vent, about one inch and a half wide. 

9. Put your hand through this incision into the body, 
and draw out all the interiors carefully, so as not to mess 
the fowl. 

10. Be very careful not to break the gall-bag, or the 
liver will be spoiled. 

N. B. Take the liver, heart, and gizzard, and put them in a basin of 
water, with about half a teaspoonf ul of salt ; the other interiors 
should be thrown away. 

N. B. Look through the fowl from one end to the other, and see that 
it is perfectly cleared out. 

11. Take a damp cloth and wipe out the inside of the 
fowl, to clean it thoroughly. 

N. B. If the fowl is not quite fresh, use a little vinegar and water on 
the cloth in cleaning it, and then take a clean cloth and wipe it 
quite dry. 

12. Take a sharp knife and cut off the claws from the 
legs of the fowl. 

13. Take a basin of boiling water, and hold the ends of 
the legs of the fowl in the water for a minute or two. 

14. Then take off the outside skin as far as to the first 
joint. 

15. Take a twist of paper, or a taper, and light it. 

16. Take the fowl up by its legs, and hold the lighted 
paper under it, to singe off the little hairs. 

17. Then hold the fowl up by its wings and singe the 
other end. 

N. B. Be careful, in singeing, not to blacken or mark the fowl in 
any way. 

18. Turn the fowl on its breast, and draw tightly the 
breast-skin over the incision on to the back of the neck. 



COOKING POULTRY. 97 

19. Cross the ends of the wings over the back of the 
neck. 

20. Now turn the fowl on its back, with the neck 
toward you. 

21. Take a tmssing-needle and thread it with fine twine. 

22. Hold the legs up and press the thighs well into the 
sides of the fowl, forcing the breast up, to give the fowl 
a good shape. 

23. Take the threaded trussing-needle and pass it 
through the bottom of one thigh, through the body, and 
out on the other side through the other thigh. 

N. B. If liked, a part of the gizzard and liver, when cleaned (see note 
at the end of " Trussing a Fowl for Boiling "), can be put into the 
wings of the fowl. 

24. Now turn the fowl on its breast, and take the 
threaded trussing-needle again and pass it through the 
middle of the pinion or wing, through the little bone 
called the sidesman or step-mother's wing, catching up 
the skin which folds over the incision, and out through 
the other little bone and wing. 

25. Pull this twine very tightly, and tie it as firmly as 
possible at the side of the fowl. 

26. Turn the fowl over on its back, keeping the neck 
still toward you. 

27. Put your finger in the incision (made for drawing 
ihefowl), and lift up the end of the breast-bone. 

28. Take the threaded trussing-needle and pass it through 
the skin over the bottom of the breast-bone, over the end 
of one leg, back through the body close to the back-bone, 
and tie it firmly over the other leg at the side. 

N. B. If there is no gravy ready for serving with the roast fowl, 
prepare it now (see note at the end). 



98 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

29. Now put the tin oven, with the jack and dripping- 
pan, before the fire. 

80, Make up the fire in the same manner as described 
in "Boasting." 

N. B. You do not require such a large fire as for roasting meat. 

31. Take the trussed fowl, and pass the hook of the jack 
through the back of the fowl, and hang it up on the jack. 

N. B. If the fire is very fierce, you should take a piece of whity- 
brown paper, butter it, and tie it over the fowl, so as to prevent 
it from burning. 

32. Put one ounce of butter in the dripping-pan to melt. 

33. Use this melted butter to baste the fowl; as the 
fowl is not very fat, there will not be much dripping 
from it. 

34. The fowl will take from half an hour to three-quar- 
ters of an hour to roast, according to its size. 

35. Baste the fowl frequently. 

36. When the fowl is quite done, take it off the jack 
and put it on a hot dish. 

37. Take a knife and cut the twine, and draw it all out 
of the fowl, and take off the paper before serving. 

For making Bread-Sauce : 

1. Take a French penny-roll and cut it in half. 

2. Pull out all the inside crumb and put it on a plate. 

3. Pull this crumb apart into small pieces. 

N. B. If a French roll cannot be procured, bread-crumbs can be used 
instead about one ounce and a half. 

4. Take a small onion and peel it with an onion-knife. 

5. Take a small stewpan and put in it the peeled onion. 

6. Pour in half a pint of milk. 

7. Now put in the crumb of the roll. 

8. Add five pepper-corns ', and salt to taste. 



COOKING POULTRY. 99 

9. Stand the stewpan aside, with the lid on, for a 
quarter of an hour, to soak the crumb. 

10. After that time, put the stewpan on the fire, and 
stir the sauce smoothly with a wooden spoon, until it boils. 

11. Now add a tablespoonful of cream, and stir the 
sauce until it just boils again. 

12. Before serving the sauce, take out the onion, and 
then pour it into a sauce-tureen. 

N. B. The neck, gizzard, liver, and claws of the fowl, when properly 
prepared (see note at the end of " Trussing a Fowl for Boiling "), 
can be used for soup or gravy, to be served with the roast fowl. 
For making the gravy, put the giblets into a saucepan, with enough 
water to cover them (about half a pint) ; also add half an onion 
(peeled), six pepper-corns, and salt to taste. Put the saucepan on 
the fire, and, when it comes to the boil, move it to the side, to 
simmer while the fowl is roasting. 

N. B.For serving, strain the gravy into a basin, and color it, if 
necessary, by stirring in a quarter of a teaspoonf ul of " Liebig's 
Extract" or ten or twelve drops of caramel (see note at the end of 
" Australian Meat," Lesson No. 2, " Brown PurSe ") ; then pour it 
in a sauce-tureen, or round the fowl. 



LESSON SECOND. 
TRUSSING A FOWL FOB BOILING. 

Ingredients. One fowl. One and a quarter ounce of butter. Stock or 
water. One carrot. One small onion. A bouquet of herbs. Two eggs. 
One ounce of flour. One- half a pint of milk. A gill of cream. 

Time required, about one hour and a quarter. 

To prepare a Fowl and Truss it for Boiling: 

1. Take a fowl that has been already plucked and put 
it on a board. 

2. Prepare it and clean it in the same way as de- 
scribed in " Trussing a Fowl for Boasting," from Note 1 
to Note 12. 



100 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

3. Take a sharp knife and cut off the claws and the 
ends of the legs of the fowl, to the first joint. 

4. Take a twist of paper, or taper, and light it. 

5. Take the fowl up by its legs, and hold the lighted 
paper under it, to singe off the little hairs. 

6. Then hold the fowl up by its wings and singe the 
other end. 

N. B. Be careful, in singeing, not to blacken or mark the fowl in 
any way. 

7. Turn the fowl on its back, with the tail toward you. 

8. Put your hands through the incision (made for 
drawing the fowl), and pass two fingers round the inside 
of the leg, so as to loosen the outside skin. 

9. Draw this outside skin right off the legs, and press 
the legs well into the sides of the fowl, forcing the breast 
up, so as to give the fowl a good shape. 

10. Pull this outside skin, and turn it neatly inside the 
fowl, over the joints of the legs. 

11. Turn the fowl on its breast, and draw tightly the 
breast-skin over the incision on to the back of the neck. 

12. Cross the ends of the wings over the back of the 
neck. 

13. Now turn the fowl on its back, with the neck 
toward you. 

14. Take a trussing-needle and thread it with fine twine. 

15. Take the threaded trussing-needle and pass it through 
the bottom of one thigh, through the body, and out on 
the other side through the other thigh. 

16. Now turn the fowl on its breast, and take the 
threaded trussing-needle again and pass it through the 
middle of the pinion or wing, through the little bone 
called the sidesman or step-mother's wing, catching up 



COOKING POULTRY. 101 

the skin which folds over the incision, and out through 
the other little bone and wing. 

17. Pull, this twine very tightly, and tie it as firmly as 
possible at the side of the fowl. 

18. Turn the fowl over on its back, keeping the neck 
still toward you. 

19. Put your finger in the incision (made for drawing 
tliefowl), and lift up the end of the breast-bone. 

20. Take the threaded trussing-needle and pass it 
through the skin over the bottom of the breast-bone, over 
one leg, back through the body close to the back-bone, 
and tie it firmly over the other leg at the side. 

21. Take a piece of kitchen-paper and butter it well. 

22. Take this piece of buttered paper and wrap it well 
round the fowl. 

23. Take a large saucepan half full of hot second white 
stock or water, and put it on the fire. 

N. B. The reason why second white stock should be used is, that the 
goodness which comes from the fowl after boiling adds to the good- 
ness of this stock, which can afterward be used for soup. 

N. B. If hot water is used, the goodness which comes from the fowl 
after boiling is only wasted, as it is not of sufficient strength to 
make the large quantity of water of any use. 

24. When the water is quite boiling, place the fowl in 
the saucepan, with its breast downward. 

25. Put into the saucepan one carrot which has been 
scraped, a small onion which has been peeled, and a 
bouquet of herbs, for flavoring. 

26. The fowl will take from three-quarters of an hour 
to one hour to boil, according to its size. 

To make the Egg-Sauce to be served with the Soiled 
Fowl: 

1. Take a small saucepan full of hot water, and put it 
on the fire to boil. 



102 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

2. When the water is quite boiling, put in two eggs to 
boil for ten minutes 

3. Take a stewpan and put in it one ounce of Gutter 
and one ounce of flour. 

4. Mix them well together with a wooden spoon. 

5. Pour in half a pint of milk. 

6. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the mixture 
with a wooden spoon until it boils and thickens. 

7. Then remove the stewpan to the side of the fire 
until required for use. 

8. When the eggs are sufficiently boiled, take them 
carefully out of the saucepan with a spoon. 

9. Knock the eggs against the edge of a basin, to break 
off all the shell. 

10. Take a small basin of cold water. 

11. Cut the eggs in half and take out the yolks. 

12. Put the whites into cold water, to prevent their 
turning yellow. 

13. Take the whites of the eggs out of the water and 
cut them to the shape of small dice. 

14. Add the pieces of white of egg to the sauce in the 
stewpan. 

15. Now add one gill of cream to the sauce. 

16. Move the stewpan to the centre of the fire, and stir 
well till it boils again. 

N. B. Be careful, in stirring, not to break the pieces of egg. 

17. When the fowl is sufficiently boiled, take it out of 
the stewpan ; take off the buttered paper, and place the 
fowl on a hot dish. 

18i With a knife cut the twine, and draw it all out of 
the fowl. 

19. Take the stewpan off the fire, and pour the sauce 
over fhefowl. 



COOKING POULTRY. 103 

20. Take a wire sieve, with the hard-boiled yolks of the 
eggs, place it over the fowl, and rub the yolks through on 
to the breast. 

N. B. The neck, gizzard, liver, heart, and claws of the fowl namely, 
the giblets should be put aside, and, when properly prepared, 
can be used for soup (see " Soups," Lesson Sixth), or should be 
put in the stock-pot. 

N. B. To clean and prepare the giblets for use : 

A. Take the gizzard, cut it very carefully with a knife down the cen- 
tre, where there is a sort of seam (be sure only to cut the first or 
outer skin), and draw off the outer skin without breaking the in- 
side, which should be thrown away. 

B. Take the outer skin of the gizzard, the heart, and liver, wash them 
well in water, and dry them in a cloth. 

C. Take the neck, cut off the head, which is of no use, draw the skin 
off the neck, and wash the latter well in water, so as to remove 
the blood and any impurities. 

D. Put the claws and ends of legs in a basin of boiling water for 
some minutes ; then take a knife, cut off the nails, and draw off 
the outer skin, which can be pulled off like a glove. 



CHAPTER IX. 
STOCK AND SOUPS. 

LESSON PIRST. 
STOCK. 

Ingredients. Four pounds of shin of beef, or two pounds of knuckle of 
veal, and two pounds of beef. Four young carrots, or two old ones. One 
turnip. One onion. One leek. Half a head of celery. Salt. 

Time required, about five hours. It should be made the day before it is re- 
quired for use. 

To make Stock for Soup : 

1. Take four pounds of skin of ~beef and put it on a 
board. 

2. Cut off all the meat from the bone with a sharp 
knife. 

3. Cut off all the fat from the meat. (Put it aside for 
other purposes.) 

4. Take a chopper and break the bone in half. 

5. Take out all the marrow and put it aside for other 
uses. 

N. B. If the fat and marrow were to go into the stock, it would 
make it greasy. 1 

6. Take a stock-pot, or a large stewpan, and put the 
meat and hone into it. 

1 Which is no great matter, as appears from 21. 



STOCK AND SOUPS. 105 

7. Pour in five pints of cold water. 

N. B. One pint of water is allowed for each pound of meat, and one 
pint over. 1 

8. Put in half a teaspoonful of salt. This will assist 
the scum to rise. 

9. Put the stock-pot on the fire with the lid on, and 
let it come to the boil quickly. 

10. Take four young carrots, scrape them clean with a 
knife, and cut them in pieces. 

11. Take one turnip and one onion, peel them, and cut 
them in quarters. 

12. Take a leek and half a head of celery, and wash 
them well in cold water. 

13. Take a spoon and remove the scum from the stock 
as it rises. 

14; Now put in all the vegetables, and let it simmer 
gently for Jive hours. 

15. Watch and skim it occasionally, and add a little 
cold water, to make the scum rise. 

16. Take a clean cloth and put it over a good-sized basin. 

17. Put a hair-sieve on the top of the cloth over the 
basin. 

18. When the stock has been simmering for five hours, 
take the stock-pot off the fire. 

19. Pour the contents into the sieve which contains the 
meat, lone, and vegetables ; and the cloth very effectually 
strains the stock. 

N. B. The meat and bone can be used again, with the addition of 
fresh vegetables and water, and you thus make what is called 
second stock." 

i One pint of water extra is added to every two quarts, on account of 
evaporation. 

9 Second stock cannot be used for clear soup unless it is first clarified, as 
shown in Lesson Third. 



106 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

20. Take the basin (into which the stock has been 
strained) and put it in a cool place till the next day, when 
it will be a stiff jelly. 

21. When this stock-jelly is required for use, take off 
the hardened fat from the top with a spoon. 

22. Take a clean cloth and dip it in hot water, and 
wipe over the top of the jelly, to remove every particle 
of fat. 

23. Now take a clean dry cloth, and wipe the top of 
the jelly dry. 

N. B. This is brown stock ; but for some soups and purges, as well 
as for many other purposes, white stock is required. This is made in 
the same way, only with veal instead of beef. It can also be made 
of veal and beef mixed, or rabbit and beef ; but veal alone is con- 
sidered best. 



LESSON SECOND. 
VEGETABLE STOCK. 

Ingredients. One cabbage. Three large or six small onions. Two carrots. 
One turnip. Two ounces of butter. Three cloves. Thirty pepper-corns. 
A bunch of herbs (thyme, marjoram, and a bay-leaf). Salt. 

Time required, about two hours and a quarter. 

To make Vegetable Stock : 

1. Take one cabbage, wash it well in cold water, and 
cut it in quarters. 

2. Take two carrots, wash them, scrape them clean, 
and cut them in quarters. 

3. Take one turnip, peel it, and cut it in quarters. 

4. Take three large or six small onions and wash them 
clean. (The skins are to be left on.) 

5. Put all these vegetables into a saucepan, with two 
oimces of Gutter. 



STOCK AND SOUPS. 107 

6. Add a lunch of herbs (namely, a sprig of thyme, 
marjoram, and a lay-leaf), tied tightly together, three 
doves, and thirty pepper-corns. 

7. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let the vegetables 
and herbs sweat in the butter for ten minutes. Stir them, 
to prevent burning. 

8. ISTow pour in three quarts of cold water, and add 
salt according to taste. 

9. When the water boils, move the saucepan to the 
side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for two hours. 
Watch it, and skim it occasionally. 

10. After that time, strain the stock into a basin, and it 
is ready for use. It is now reduced to two quarts and 
one-half a pint. 

N. B. This stock can be used for thick vegetable soups. 



LESSON THIRD. 
CLEAR SOUP. 

Ingredients. Two quarts of stock. Three-quarters of a pound of gravy- 
beef. Two carrots. Two turnips. One and one-half a leek. One cab- 
bage-lettuce. One tablespoonf ul of young peas. Salt. One lump of sugar. 

Time required (the stock should be made the day before), about one hour and a 
half. 

To make Clear Soup : 

1. Take two quarts of stock 1 (see Lesson First on 
" Stock "), and be careful to remove from it all fat. 

1 This lesson only applies to second stock, or stock that, for any reason, 
has become turbid. Stock carefully made by the directions in Lesson First on 
" Stock " is already clear, if a little care is taken to separate the sediment at 
the bottom of the jelly. It is only second stock, or stock made from odds 
and ends of meat and bones, cooked and uncooked, that requires to be clarified. 



108 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

2. Put the stock into a stewpan. 

3. Take three-quarters of a pound of gravy-beef (from 
the shin of beef), put it on a board, and cut off all the 
fat and skin with a sharp knife. 

4. Chop the beef up very fine. 

N. B. The proportion of beef for clarifying stock is one pound to 
every five pounds of meat with which the stock is made. 

5. Put the chopped gravy-beef into the stewpan. 

6. Take one carrot, one turnip, and one leek, and wash 
them well in cold water. 

7. Take the vegetables out of the water and put them 
on a board. 

8. Take a sharp knife and scrape the carrot quite clean, 
and slice it up. 

9. Take the turnip, peel it, and cut it in small pieces. 

10. Take the leek and cut off part of the long green 
leaves and the little straggling roots, and chop up the 
remainder fine. 

11. Put all these vegetables into the stewpan, and stir 
them with an iron spoon until they are well mixed with 
the "beef and stock. 

12. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the contents 
till boiling begins. 

13. Now take a large spoon and carefully skim the 
surface. 

14. Stand the stewpan by the side of the fire, and let it 
simmer gently for twenty minutes. 

15. Take a clean soup-cloth and fix it on the soup-stand. 1 

16. Take a large basin and place it below the cloth. 

1 A soup-stand is easily improvised by turning bottom upward a seat 
which has no back, and tying the four corners of your napkin to the ends of 
its four legs. 



STOCK AND SOUPS. 109 

17. Take the stewpan off the fire and pour the contents 
into the cloth, and let it all pass into the basin. 

N. B. The chopped gravy-beef acts as a filter to the soup. 

18. After the soup has all passed through, remove the 
basin and put a clean one in its place. 

19. Take a soup-ladle and pour a little of the soup at a 
time over the meat in the cloth, and let it pass through 
very slowly. 

N. B. Be careful not to disturb the deposit of chopped beef which 

settles at the bottom of the cloth. 
N. B. If savory custard is preferred in the soup instead of shredded 

vegetables, see No. 31. 

20. Take a small carrot, turnip, half a leek, callage-let- 
tuce, and a tdblespoonful of young peas, and wash them 
in cold water. 

21. Put the vegetables on a board, scrape the carrot 
clean, peel the turnip with a sharp knife, and cut off 
all the outside leaves of the lettuce, and the long green 
leaves of the leek. 

22. Shred the carrot, turnip, leek, and cabbage-lettuce 
very finely in equal lengths. 

23. Put the shredded carrot, turnip, and leek into a 
small saucepan of cold water, with half a salt-spoonful 
of salt. 

24. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let it just come to 
the boil. 

N. B. This is to blanch the vegetables. 

25. Take the saucepan off the fire, and strain the water 
from the vegetables. 

26. Take a stewpan and put in the blanched vegetables 
and cabbage-lettuce and peas ; add a lump of sugar and 
half a pint of the clear soup. 



HO LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

27. Put the stewpan on the fire, to boil fast, and reduce 
the soup to a glaze over the vegetables. 

28. Take the basin of strained soup, and pour the soup 
on the vegetables in the stewpan, and let it just boil. 

29. Then remove the stewpan to the side of the fire, 
and let it boil gently for half an hour. 

30. For serving, pour the soup into a hot soup-tureen. 

FOR SAVORY CUSTARD. 
Ingredients. Two eggs. Butter. 

31. Take the yolks of two eggs and the white of one, 
and put them in a small basin. 

32. Add one gill of the clear soup and a quarter of a 
salt-spoonful of salt. 

33. Whisk up the eggs and the stock well together. 

34. Take a small gallipot * and butter it inside. 

35. Pour the mixture into the gallipot. 

36. Take a piece of whity-brown paper and butter it. 

37. Put this buttered paper over the top of the gallipot, 
and tie it on with a piece of string. 

38. Take a saucepan of hot water and put it on the fire. 

39. When the water is quite boiling, stand the little 
gallipot in it. 

N. B. The water must not quite reach the paper with which the gal- 
lipot is covered. 

40. Draw this saucepan to the side of the fire, and let 
it simmer for a quarter of an hour. 

N. B. It must not boil, or the custard will be spoiled. 

41. Take the gallipot out of the saucepan, take off the 

1 Any earthen cup or bowl that will stand fire will do equally well. 



STOCK AND SOUPS. 

buttered paper, and turn the custard out on to a plate 
to cool. 

42. Cut the custard into small pieces the shape of 
diamonds. 

43. Just before serving, pour the soup into the hot 
tureen, and add the savory custard to the soup. 



LESSON FOURTH. 
TAPIOCA CREAM. 

Ingredients. One pint of white stock. One ounce of tapioca. Yolks of 
two eggs. Two tablespoonfuls of cream or good milk. Pepper and salt. 

Time required (the stock should be made the day before), about a quarter of 
an hour. 

To make Tapioca Cream : 

1. Take one pint of white stock (see Lesson on " Stock ") 
and pour it in a stewpan. 

2. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil. 

3. Take one ounce of prepared tapioca. 

4. When the white stock boils, stir in gradually the 
tapioca. 

5. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it 
all simmer until the tapioca is quite clear. 

6. Now prepare the liaison. 

7. Put the yolks of two eggs in a basin, and add to 
them two tablespoonfuls of cream or good milk. 

8. Just stir it with a wooden spoon, and then pour the 
mixture through a strainer into another basin. 

9. Now take the stewpan with the white stock off the 
fire, and stand it on a piece of paper, or wooden trivet, on 
the^table. 

10. "When the stock is cooled a little, add, by degrees, 



112 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

two or three tablespoonfuls of it to the liaison, stirring 
well all the time. 

N. B. Be careful that the eggs do not curdle. 

11. Now add this mixture to the remainder of the stock 
in the stewpan, and stir well. 

12. Add pepper and salt to the soup, according to taste. 

13. Place the stewpan of soup on the fire, to warm 
before serving. 

N. B. It must not boil. For serving, pour it into a hot soup-tureen. 



LESSON FIFTH. 
BONNE FEMME SOUP. 

Ingredients. Two lettuces. Two leaves of sorrel. Four sprigs of tarra- 
gon. Four sprigs of chervil. One-half a cucumber. Half an ounce of 
butter. Salt. One salt-spoonful of sugar. One and one-half pint of 
white stock. The yolks of three eggs. One gill of cream or milk. The 
crust of a French roll. 

Time required (the stock should be made the day before), about half an hour. 

To make Bonne Femme Soup : 

1. Take two lettuces, two leaves of sorrel, four sprigs 
of tarragon, four sprigs of chervil, and wash them well 
in cold water. 

2. Take these vegetables and herbs out of the water, 
put them upon a board, and shred them finely. 

3. Take a cucumber and cut it in half. 

4. Peel half the cucumber and cut it up in thin slices, 
and then shred it with a sharp knife. 

5. Put half an ounce of butter in a stewpan, and put 
it on the fire to melt. 

6. Place all the shredded vegetables and herbs in the 
stewpan, to sweat fox Jive minutes. 



STOCK AND SOUPS. 113 

7. Sprinkle over them half a salt-spoonful of salt and a 
salt-spoonful of castor sugar. 1 

8. Watch it occasionally, as the vegetables must not 
burn, or in any way discolor. 

9. Take a pint and a half of white stock (see Lesson 
on " Stock ") and put it in another saucepan. 

10. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil. 

11. Now make a liaison. 

12. Take the yolks of three eggs, put them in a basin, 
and beat them well. 

13. Stir in one gill of cream or milk. 

14. When the stock is quite boiling, pour it into the 
stewpan with the vegetables, and let all boil gently for ten 
minutes, until the vegetables are quite tender. 

15. After that time, take the stewpan off the fire and 
stand it on a piece of paper on the table. 

16. Take a French roll and cut off all the crust. 

17. Put the crust on a tin, and put it in the oven to 
dry for a minute or two. 

18. When the stock 'has cooled a little, stir in the liai- 
son, straining it through a hair-sieve into the stewpan. 

19. Stand the stewpan by the side of the fire, to keep 
warm until required for use. 

N. B. Do not let it boil, as, now the liaison is added, it would curdle. 

20. Take the tin out of the oven and turn the dried 
crust on to a board. 

21. Cut this crust into small pieces, and into any fancy 
shape, according to taste. 

22. Place these pieces of crust in a hot soup-tureen, 
and pour the soup over them. 

1 Ordinary pulverized sugar. 



LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON SIXTH. 

PUKEE OF POTATOES. 

Ingredients. One pound of potatoes. One small onion. Two leaves of 
celery. One ounce of butter. One and one-half pint of white stock. 
Salt. One gill of cream. Fried bread. 

Time required (the stock should be made the day before), about three-quarters 
of an hour. 

To make a Puree of Potatoes : 

1. Take one pound of potatoes, put them in a basin of 
cold water, and scrub them clean with a scrubbing-brush. 

2. Take a sharp- knife and peel the potatoes, and cut 
them in thin slices. 

3. Take a small onion, wash it well in cold water, and 
peel it. 

4. Take two leaves of celery and wash them. 

5. Take a stewpan and put in it one ounce of butter. 

6. Now add the sliced potatoes, the onion, and the 
celery. 

7. Put the stewpan on the fire and let the vegetables 
sweat ioYJlve minutes ; take care that they do not discolor. 

8. Pour into the stewpan one pint of white stock, and 
stir frequently with a wooden spoon, to prevent it from 
burning. 

9. Let it boil gently till the vegetables are quite cooked. 

10. Put half a pint of white stock into a stewpan, and 
put it on the fire to heat. 

11. Now place a tammy-sieve over a basin, and pass the 
contents of the stewpan through the sieve with a wooden 
spoon, adding, by degrees, the half pint of hot white 
stock, which will enable it to pass through more easily. 

12. Take the stewpan and wash it out. 



STOCK AND SOUPS. 115 

13. Pour the puree back into the stewpan. 

14. Add salt according to taste, and one gill of cream, 
and stir smoothly with a wooden spoon until it boils. 

15. For serving, pour it into a hot soup-tureen. 

N. B. Fried bread, cut in the shape of dice, should be served with 
the pur6e (see "Vegetables," Lesson Eighth, from Note 13 to 17). 



LESSON SEVENTH. 
SPRING VEGETABLE SOUP. 

Ingredients* Two pounds of the shin of beef. Two pounds of the knuckle 
of veal. Salt. Two young carrots. One young turnip. One leek. Half 
a head of celery. One cauliflower. One gill of peas. One-quarter of a 
salt-spoonful of carbonate of soda. 

Time required for making, about five hours. 

To make two quarts of Spring Vegetable Soup : 

1. Take two pounds of shin of beef and two pounds of 
'knuckle of veal, and put them on a board. 

2. Cut off all the meat from the bone with a sharp 
knife. 

3. Cut off all the fat from the meat. (Put the fat 
aside for other purposes.) 

4. Take a chopper and break the bones in halves. 1 

5. Take out all the marrow inside the bones, and put 
it aside for other uses. 

N. B. If the fat and marrow were to go into the soup, they would 
make it greasy. 

6. Take a stock-pot, or a large stewpan, and put the 
meat and bones into it. 

7. Pour in five pints of cold water. 

1 The butcher will always do this for a customer. 



116 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

8. Put in a teaspoonful of salt. This will assist the 
scum to rise. 

9. Put the stock-pot on the fire, with the lid on, and 
let it come to the boil quickly. 

10. Take a spoon and remove all the scum as it rises. 

11. Now draw the stock-pot rather to the side of the 
fire, and let it simmer gently iovfove hours. 

12. Take two young carrots, scrape them clean with a 
knife, and cut them in slices. 

13. Take one young turnip, peel it, and cut it in slices. 

14. Take half a head of celery and one leek, wash them 
well in cold water, and cut them in squares with a knife. 

15. Take one cauliflower, wash it in cold water, and put 
it in a basin of cold water, with a dessertspoonful of salt, 
for two or three minutes. 

16. Then take the cauliflower out of the water and 
squeeze it dry in a cloth. 

17. Take a knife and cut off all the green leaves and 
the stalks from the cauliflower, and pull the flower into 
sprigs. 

18. Watch and skim the soup occasionally, and you 
should add a little cold water, to make the scum rise. 

19. One hour before serving the soup, add the vege- 
tables. 

20. You first put in the sliced carrots and the cut-up 
celery and leek. (These vegetables take the longest to 
boil.) 

21. In half an hour add the sliced turnips, and, fifteen 
minutes after that, the cut-up flower of the cauliflower. 

22. Take a saucepan full of hot water, and put it on the 
fire to boil. 

23. When the water is quite boiling, put in one gill of 
shelled peas, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a 



STOCK AND SOUPS. 117 

salt-spoonful of carbonate of soda, and let it boil from fif- 
teen to twenty minutes, according to the age of the peas. 

N. B. The cover should be off the saucepan. 

24. After that time try the peas, and, if they are quite 
soft, take them out of the saucepan and drain them in a 
colander. 

25. For serving, put the boiled peas into a hot soup- 
tureen, and ladle the soup, and the other vegetables from 
the stock-pot, out into the tureen. 



LESSON EIGHTH. 
GEBLET SOUP. 

Ingredients. Two sets of giblets. One-quarter of a head of celery. One 
carrot. One turnip. Two small onions. Two cloves. One blade of 
mace. A bouquet garni of parsley, thyme, lemon-thyme, basil, marjoram, 
and bay-leaf. Two quarts of second white stock. One and a half ounce 
of clarified butter. One ounce of flour. Half a pint of Madeira. Thirty 
drops of lemon-juice. A few grains of Cayenne pepper. Salt. 

Time required (the stock should be made the day before), about three hours 
and a half. 

To make Giblet Soup : 

1. Take two sets of goose or four of duck giblets, scald 
and skin the claws, ends of legs, etc., and wash them clean 
in cold water (see note for "Cleaning Giblets," at the end 
of Lesson on " Trussing a Fowl for Boiling "). 

2. You should put them into boiling water, to blanch 
them, iovfive minutes. 

3. Then lay them in a basin of cold water, and wash 
and scrape them clean. 

4. Take them out of the water and drain them. 

5. Take a knife and cut the giblets in pieces, to about 
one and a half inch in length. 



118 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

6. Put the pieces of giblet into a stewpan. 

7. Take a quarter of a head of celery and wash it well 
in cold water. 

8. Take one carrot, wash it in cold water, and scrape 
it clean with a knife. 

9. Take one turnip and two small onions, wash them 
in cold water, and peel them. 

10. Add these vegetables to the giblets in the stewpan. 

11. Also put in two cloves, one Hade of mace, and a 
bouquet garni, consisting of parsley, one sprig of thyme, 
lemon-thyme, basil, 'marjoram, and one bay-leaf, all tied 
tightly together. 

12. Pour in two quarts of second white stock. 

13. Put the stewpan on the fire, and let it boil gently 
for two hours ; skim it occasionally. 

14. After that time, take out the best pieces of the gib- 
lets and trim them neatly. 

15. Put these pieces aside until required for use. 

16. Leave the stewpan on the fire, to boil for half an 
hour. 

17. Put an ounce and a half of clarified butter and one 
ounce of flour into a stewpan. 

18. Put the stewpan on the fire, and let the flour and 
butter fry for a few minutes, stirring it well with a wooden 
spoon. 

19. Now add the stock, and stir it well until it boils. 

20. Now remove the stewpan to the side of the fire, 
and let it boil gently for twenty minutes. (The cover of 
the saucepan should be only half on.) 

21. After that time, take a spoon and carefully skim off 
all the butter that will have risen to the top of the soup. 

22. Now strain the soup into a basin ; add to it half a 
pint of Madeira, thirty drops of lemon-juice, a few grains 
of Cayenne pepper, and salt according to taste. 



STOCK AND SOUPS. 119 

23. For serving, pour the soup into a hot soup-tureen, 
and add to it the pieces of giblet that were put aside. 

N. B. If disliked, the wine may be omitted. 



LESSON NINTH. 
MOCK-TTJKTLE SOUP. 

Ingredients. Half a calf s head. Three ounces of butter. Half a table- 
spoonful of salt. One-quarter of a pound of lean ham. One shallot. 
One clove of garlic. Six mushrooms. One carrot. Half a head of celery. 
One leek. One onion. Half a turnip. Bouquet garni (sprig of thyme, 
marjoram, parsley, and a bay-leaf). One blade of mace. Six cloves. 
Three ounces of flour. Two wineglasses of sherry. The juice of half a 
lemon. One dozen force-meat balls. 

Time required, about six hours. 

N. B. If the soup is required to be made in one day, the stock should 
be made early in the morning, so as to give it time to get cold, 
that the fat may be removed. 

To make Mock-Turtle Soup : 

1. Take half a calf's head and wash it well in water, 
to remove all blood and impurities. 

2. Cut all the flesh from the tones, and tie it up in a 
very clean cloth or napkin. 

3. Put it in a large stewpan, with the bones, and four 
quarts of cold water and half a tablespoonful of salt. 

4. Put the stewpan on the fire and let it come to the 
boil. 

5. As soon as it boils, skim it well with a spoon, and 
move the stewpan to the side of the fire, to stew gently 
for three hours. 

N. B. Watch it, and skim it occasionally. 

6. After that time, take out the calf's head, and pour 
the stock through a strainer into a basin. 



120 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

7. Set it aside to get cold ; then remove every particle 
of fat from the top of the stock. 

8. Now make some force-meat (see "Beef Olives," 
" Entrees," Lesson Eighth, from Note 4 to Note 12), and 
make it up into little balls about one dozen. 

9. Take six mushrooms (cut off the ends of the stalks), 
one onion, and half a turnip, wash, peel, and cut them 
up in slices. 

10. Take one carrot, wash, scrape clean, and cut in 
slices. 

11. Take half a head of celery and one leeTc, wash them, 
and cut them up in slices. (Throw away the long green 
leaves.) 

12. Put a quarter of a pound of lean ham on a board 
and cut it up in slices. 

13. Put one ounce of butter in a stewpan, and put it on 
the fire to melt. 

14. Add the ham and all the sliced vegetables to the 
butter in the stewpan. 

15. Also add one shallot (peeled), one clove of garlic, 
one Hade of mace, six cloves, and a bouquet garni (a sprig 
of thyme, marjoram, parsley, and a lay-leaf, tied tightly 
together). 

16. Let all these vegetables, herbs, etc., fry in the butter 
for ten minutes. Stir them occasionally. 

17. Then add three ounces of flour, and stir well. 

18. Now add the stock, and stir it till it boils ; then 
move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer 
about ten minutes. 

19. Take a spoon and remove every particle of scum. 

20. Now strain the soup into another stewpan. 

21. Take the calf's head out of the cloth and cut it up 
in small, neat pieces. 



STOCK AND SOUPS. 121 

22. Add the pieces of coifs head to the soup, also two 
wineglasses of sherry, the dozen force-meat balls, and 
squeeze in, through a strainer, the juice of half a lemon. 

23. Let the soup just come to the boil, and then pour it 
in a hot soup-tureen for serving. 



LESSON TENTH. 
POT-AU-FEU, OK SOUP. 

Ingredients. Four pounds of beef, or four pounds of the meat of the ox- 
cheek. Sago or tapioca for soup. Half an ounce of salt. Two turnips. 
Two carrots. Two leeks. One parsnip. One small head of celery. Two 
or three sprigs of parsley. One cabbage. One bay-leaf, thyme, and mar- 
joram, and one onion stuck with three cloves. 

Time required, about four hours. 

To make Pot-aufeu : 

1. Put six quarts of water in a large pot. 

2. Take four pounds of the sticking piece of beef, or 
four pounds of the meat off the ox-cheek, without any 
bone, tie it up firmly into a shape with a piece of string, 
and put it into the pot. 

3. Put the pot on the fire to boil. 

4. When the water is quite boiling, put in half an 
ounce of salt, and then move the pot to the side of the 
fire to simmer. 

5. Take two carrots, two leeks, two turnips, one par- 
snip, one small head of celery, and wash them well in 
cold water. 

6. Scrape the carrots and the parsnip, and cut them 
in quarters with a knife. 

7. Take the leeks and cut off the long green leaves, as 
only the white part is required. 



122 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

8. Take the head of celery and cut off the green tops 
of the leaves. 

9. Tie the leeJcs, the celery, and the parsnip and car- 
rot together with a piece of string. 

10. Take a cabbage, cut it in two, and wash it thor- 
oughly in cold water, and tie it firmly together with 
a piece of string. 

11. Skim the pot-au-feu occasionally with a spoon. 

12. When it has boiled very gently for one hour, add 
to it all the vegetables except the cabbage. 

13. Take one bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, a sprig of 
thyme, a sprig of marjoram, and tie them together with a 
piece of string. 

14. Put these herbs into the pot. 

15. Take one onion, peel it, and stick three cloves in it. 

16. Put the onion into the pot. 

17. When the vegetables have been two hours in the 
pot, put in the cabbage. 

18. When the contents of the pot have simmered gently 
for four hours, take out the meat and put it on a hot dish. 

19. Garnish the meat with the carrots, turnips, and 
parsnips, and pour over it about half a pint of the liquor 
for gravy. 

20. Take out the cabbage and serve it in a hot vegeta- 
ble-dish. 

21. Strain the liquor through a colander, or cloth, into 
a basin, and put it by to cool. 

22. Do not remove the fat until the liquor is required 
for use ; it keeps the air from it. 

To make a Soup of the liquor : 

23. Put two quarts of the liquor in a saucepan, and put 
it on the fire to boil. 



STOCK AND SOUPS. 123 

24. Take two ounces of crushed tapioca, or small sago ; 
and when the liquor boils, sprinkle in the tapioca or sago, 
and let it boil for fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally. 

25. Then pour it into the soup-tureen, and it is ready 
for use. 

N. B. If liked, Beef ^-la-mode, or rissoles (see " Cooked Meat," Lesson 
Sixth), can be made from the meat of the Pot-au-feu. 

For Beef d-larmode : 

1. Put two ounces of dripping into a saucepan, and 
put it on the fire to melt. 

2. Stir in one tablespoonf ul of flour. 

3. Take one pound and a half of the meat and cut it 
in neat pieces. 

4. Put these pieces of meat into the saucepan. 

5. When it comes to the boil, turn over the slices of 
meat and pour in half a pint of cold water. 

6. Wash and scrape clean one carrot, and cut it in 
slices. 

7. Put the carrot into the saucepan ; add a bunch of 
herbs (namely, a sprig of marjoram and thyme and a bay- 
leaf), tied tightly together. 

8. Let it just come to a boil, and then move the sauce- 
pan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for 
three hours. 

9. "Watch it, and stir it occasionally. 

10. For serving, turn the meat on to a hot dish, and 
place the carrot on the top of the meat. 



124: LESSONS IN COOKERY. 



LESSON ELEVENTH. 



Ingredients. Four ounces of Scotch barley. Four ounces of sliced onion. 
Four ounces of dripping. Three ounces of bacon. Four ounces of oat- 
meal. Pepper and salt. Five quarts of liquor. 

Time required, about two hours. 

To make "Dr. Kitchener's Broth " ; 

1. Take four ounces of Scotch barley, wash it well, 
and let it soak in a basin of cold water for two hours. 

2. Put five quarts of liquor into a saucepan, and put 
it on the fire to boil. 

3. Take two or three onions, peel them, and cut them 
in slices. (There should be about four ounces?) 

4. Drain off the barley and put it and the onions into 
the liquor, and let it boil gently for one hour. 

5. Put three ounces of bacon into another saucepan, 
with two ounces of clarified dripping. 

6. Put the saucepan on the fire to fry the bacon brown. 

7. Then add, by degrees, four ounces of oatmeal, stir- 
ring it well until it is a paste. 

8. Now stir in, by degrees, the broth, and season it 
with pepper and salt according to taste. 

9. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it 
simmer gently for at least half an hour. 

10. For serving, pour the broth into a hot soup-tureen 
or basin. 



STOCK AND SOUPS. 125 

LESSON TWELFTH. 
CKOWDIE. 

Ingredients. Two gallons of liquor from meat. Half a pint of oatmeal. 
Two onions. Salt and pepper. 

Time required, half an hour. 

To make " Crowdie" or Scotch Broth : 

1. Take two gallons of any meat-liquor, either salt or 
fresh, remove all the fat from it, and put it into a sauce- 
pan. 

2. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil. 

3. Take half a pint of oatmeal, put it into a basin, 
and mix it into a smooth paste with about a gill of the 
liquor. 

N. B. Half a pint of oatmeal is enough to thicken two gallons of liquor. 

4. Peel two onions, put them on a board, and chop 
them up as fine as possible. 

5. Stir the chopped onions into the paste, and add 
salt and pepper to taste. 

N. B. If salt liquor is used, salt should not be added. 

6. "When the liquor in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
stir in the paste smoothly. 

7. Let it boil for twenty minutes, stirring it occasion- 
ally ; it must not get lumpy. 

8. For serving, pour it into the soup-tureen or basin. 



126 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON THIRTEENTH. 
MILK SOUP. 

Ingredients. Four potatoes. Two leeks or onions. Two ounces of but- 
ter. One-quarter of an ounce of salt. Pepper. One pint of milk. Three 
tablespoonfuls of tapioca. 

Time required, about two hours and a half. 

To make Milk Soup : 

1. Put two quarts of water into a large saucepan, and 
put it on the fire to boil. 

2. Take four large potatoes, wash and scrub them 
clean in cold water, peel them, and cut them in quarters. 

3. Take two leeks, cut off the green tops of the leaves, 
wash them well in cold water, and cut them up. 

N. B. Onions can be used instead of leeks, only they would give a 
stronger flavor. 

4. When the water is quite boiling, put in the potatoes 
and leeks. 

5. Put in two ounces of butter, a quarter of an ounce 
of salt, and pepper to taste. 

6. Let it boil till done to a mash. 

7. Then strain off the soup through the colander. 

8. Kub the vegetables through the colander with a 
wooden spoon. 

9. Return the pulp and the soup to the saucepan, add 
one pint of milk to it, and put it on the fire to boil. 

10. When it boils, sprinkle in, by degrees, three table- 
spoonfuls of crushed tapioca, stirring it well the whole 
time. 

11. Let it boil gently fifteen minutes. 

12. For serving, pour the soup in a hot tureen. 



STOCK AND SOUPS. 127 

LESSON FOURTEENTH. 
CABBAGE SOUP. 

Ingredients. One cabbage. Two ounces of butter. Three-quarters of a 
pint of milk. Pepper and salt. A slice of bread. 

Time required^ about one hour and a quarter. 

To make Cabbage Soup : 

1. Put three pints of water into a saucepan, and put it 
on the fire to boil, 

2. Take a good-sized cabbage, wash it well in cold 
water, and trim off the outside dead leaves. 

3. Cut the cabbage up as you would cut a lettuce up 
for a salad, but not into small pieces. 

4. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
put in the cabbage. 

5. Add two ounces of butter, and pepper and salt for 
seasoning, and let it boil one hour. 

6. Then pour in three-quarters of a pint of milk, and 
let it boil up. 

7. Stick a slice of bread on a toasting-fork, and toast 
it slightly on both sides in front of the fire. 

8. Cut the toasted bread in pieces the size of dice, and 
put them into a hot soup-tureen or basin. 

9. Pour the cabbage soup on to the bread in the soup- 
tureen, and it is ready for serving. 



128 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON FIFTEENTH. 
PEA SOUP. 

Ingredients. One quart of split peas. Two onions. One turnip. One 
carrot. One head of celery. Teaspoonful of salt. Half a teaspoonful 
of pepper. Cooked or uncooked bones. 

Time required (after the peas have been soaked all night), about two hours 
and a half. 

To make Pea Soup : 

1. Put a quart of split peas into a basin, with cold 
water to cover them, and let them soak for twelve hours. 

N. B. This should be done over night. 

2. Put two quarts of cold water and the split peas 
into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to boil. 

N. B. If there is any liquor from boiled meat, it would of course be 
better than water for the soup. 

3. Take two onions and one turnip, wash them in cold 
water, peel them, and cut them in halves. 

4. Take one carrot, wash it, and scrape it clean with a 
knife. 

5. Take one head of celery, cut off the ends of the 
root, and wash it well in cold water. 

6. When the water in the saucepan is boiling, put in 
all the vegetables. 

7. Add any cooked or uncoolced hones that are at hand, 
and season it with one teaspoonful of salt and half a tea- 
spoonful of ground pepper. 

N. B. If some liquor (in which meat or pork has been boiled) is used, 
the addition of bones will not then be necessary. 

8. Let it all boil slowly for two hours, and you must 
watch it, and skim it occasionally. 



STOCK AND SOUPS. 129 

% 

9. After that time, take the ~bones out of the saucepan. 

10. Place a colander or wire sieve over a basin. 

11. Pour the contents of the saucepan into the colan- 
der, and rub them through into the basin with a wooden 
spoon. 

12. The pea soup is then ready for serving. 

13. Powdered (dried) mint and toasted bread, cut to 
the shape of dice, should be handed with the soup, either 
put in, or served separately on plates. 



LESSON SIXTEENTH. 
GERMAN PEA SOUP. 

Ingredients. Quarter of a stick of German pea-soup sausage. Three 
pints of water. 

Time required, about a quarter of an hour, 

To make Pea Soup from the German pea-soup sausage : 

1. Put three pints of warm water into a saucepan, and 
put it on the fire to boil. 

2. Take a quarter of a stick of German pea-soup sau- 
sage and scrape it into a basin. 

3. Add to it a very little warm water, let it soak, and 
then mix it into a smooth paste. 

N. B. Be very careful that there are no lumps in the paste. 

4. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
stir the paste in smoothly. 

5. It is now ready for use, and should be poured into 
a hot soup-tureen. 

N". B. If the soup is preferred thinner, more water might be added. 
N. B. A dessertspoonful of chopped mint might be added to the soup, 
if the flavor is liked. 



130 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON SEVENTEENTH. 
MACARONI SOUP. 

Ingredients. Bones. One tablespoonful of salt and pepper-corns. One 
good-sized turnip and four leeks. Two carrots. Four onions. Two cloves, 
and a blade of mace. A bunch of herbs (marjoram, thyme, lemon-thyme, 
and parsley). One-quarter of a pound of macaroni. 

Time required, about two hours and a half. 

To make Soup from Bones : 

1. Cut off from the bones all the meat that can be used. 

N. B. Cooked or uncooked bones can be used. 

2. Break up the bones in pieces and put them into a 
saucepan, with cold water enough to cover them, and one 
quart more. 

3. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil. 

4. When it just boils, put in a tablespoonful of salt, to 
help the scum rise. 

5. Peel one good-sized turnip and cut it in quarters. 

N. B. When turnips are used only for flavoring, they can be peeled 
thinner than if for eating. 

6. Take two carrots, wash them, scrape them, and cut 
them in quarters ; take four leeks, wash them, and shred 
them up finely. 

N. B. As soon as these vegetables are prepared, they should be 
thrown into cold water, to keep them fresh. 

7. Take four onions, peel them, and stick two cloves 
into them. 

N. B. The outer skins of the onions can be put into a saucepan by 
the side of the fire, to brown ; when browned, they are used for 
coloring gravies or soups. 

8. Skim the soup well, and then put in the vegetables ; 
also add a blade of mace and a teaspoonful of pepper-corns. 



STOCK AND SOUPS. 131 

9. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it 
simmer gently for two hours and a half. 

10. Eaise the lid slightly to let out the steam. 

N. B. The soup can be thickened with macaroni, vermicelli, barley, 
or rice. 

11. If the soup is thickened with macaroni, take a 
quarter of a pound of macaroni and wash it well in two 
or three waters. 

12. Put the macaroni into a saucepan with plenty of 
cold water, and sprinkle a little salt over it. 

13. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let it boil until 
the macaroni is quite tender ; it will talje about half an 
hour. 

14. Try the macaroni with your fingers, to see that it 
is quite soft and tender. 

15. When it is sufficiently boiled, strain the water off 
and pour some cold water on it, and wash the macaroni 
again. 

16. Put it on a board and cut it into small pieces, about 
a quarter of an inch in length ; it is then ready to be put 
into the soup. 

N. B. If barley is used instead of macaroni, it will take a much 
longer time to boil ; but if vermicelli is used, it takes a very short 
time to boil. 

17. When the soup is ready for use, put the macaroni 
into a soup-tureen, and strain the hot soup over it. 

N. B. It is better to boil macaroni separately, as the first water is 
not clean. 



CHAPTER X. 
FISH. 



LESSON MUST. 

BOILED TURBOT AND LOBSTER-SAUCE. 

Ingredients. Lobster. Two ounces of butter. One tablespoonful of 
cream. Half an ounce of flour. 

Time required, about half an hour. 

To Boil Turbot and make Lobster-Sauce : 

1. Put the turbot in a basin of cold water and wash it 
well. 

2. Get a fish-kettle and fill it with cold water ; add to 
it as much salt as will make the water taste salt, and put 
it on the fire to boil. 

3. Take the turbot out of the basin. 

4. Put it on the drainer of the fish-kettle, and put it 
in the kettle of boiling water, so that it will be covered 
with water. 

5. Let it boil for twenty or thirty minutes. 

6. Watch it, and skim the water if necessary. 

N. B. While the turbot is boiling, make the lobster-sauce (see below). 

7. When the fish is sufficiently boiled, the flesh will 
divide from the bones. 



FISH. 133 

8. Now take the drainer out of the fish-kettle, stand it 
across the kettle a minute to drain, and slip the fish care- 
fully on to a hot dish for serving. 

While the turbot is hoiling, make the Lobster-Sauce : 

1. Take a small lobster it should be a hen-lobster, if 
possible. 

2. Put the lobster on a board. 

3. Take a chopper and break the shell of the lobster, 
by hitting it with the blade of the chopper, not with the 
edge ; first, because it would cut the lobster in pieces, and 
second, because it would spoil the edge of the chopper. 

4. Break all the shell off the claws and back with your 
fingers, and take out all the flesh. 

5. Cut this flesh up with a sharp knife to the size of 
small dice. 

6. If the lobster is a hen-lobster, you will find a bit of 
coral in the neck, and a strip of it down the back. 

7. Take all this coral out of the lobster and wash it 
carefully in cold water in a small basin. 

8. Take the coral out of the basin and put it in a 
mortar, with one ounce of butter. 

9. Pound the coral and the butter well with the pestle. 

10. Take it out of the mortar, and scrape the mortar 
out quite clean with a palette-knife, for none must be lost. 

11. If you have not a palette-knife, you can manage as 
well with a piece of uncooked potato cut into the shape of 
a knife-blade with a thick back ; with this you can scrape 
all out of the mortar. 

12. Take a hair-sieve and put it over a plate. 

13. Rub the pounded mixture through the sieve with 
the back of a wooden spoon. 

14. Turn up the sieve when all the mixture has passed 



134: LESSOXS IN COOKERY. 

through, and you will find some sticking on the under 
part. 

15. Scrape all this carefully off with the spoon. 

16. Make it all into a little pat. 

17. Take a stewpan and put in it one ounce of butter 
and half an ounce of flour. 

18. Mix them well together with a wooden spoon. 

19. Add one gill and a half of cold water. 

20. Put the stewpan on the fire. 

21. Stir the mixture smooth with a wooden spoon until 
it boils and thickens. Add a large tablespoonful of cream, 
and stir well till it boils again. 

22. Then take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a 
piece of paper on the table. 

23. Add to the mixture in the stewpan the pat of coral 
butter, by degrees, to color it. 

N. B. If there is no coral, the sauce might be colored with half a 
teaspoonf ul of essence of anchovy. 

24. Stir it quite smoothly with a wooden spoon ; it must 
not be lumpy. 

25. Now add pepper and salt, and a few grains of Cay- 
enne pepper, according to taste. 

26. Take the chopped lobster and mix it into the sauce, 
and add a little lemon-juice. 

27. Pour the sauce into a sauce-boat, and serve it with 
the turbot. 



FISH. 135 



ND. 



Ingredients. Haddock. Twopoun^^gpto^es 

One egg. tt 

.For Sauce. 
Ingredients. Two ounces of butter. Half an ounce of flour. Half a gill 

of cream. Two eggs, and salt. 

Time required, about one hour and a half. 

To make a Fish Pudding of a Haddock : 

1. Take a fish-kettle of warm water and put in it a lit- 
tle salt, and put it on the fire to boil. 

2. Take a haddock and put it into a basin of cold 
water, and wash it well. 

3. Take the haddock out of the basin and put it into 
the fish-kettle of boiling water, laying it carefully on the 
drainer, so that it will be covered with water. 

4. Let it simmer ion: fifteen minutes. 

5. Take six potatoes, put them into a basin of cold 
water, and scrub them well with a scrubbing-brush. 

N. B. Any cold potatoes can, of course, be used, instead of boiling 
fresh ones. 

6. Take the potatoes out of the basin and dry them 
with a cloth. 

7. Take a sharp knife and peel the potatoes. 

8. Take a saucepan of cold 1 water and lay the potatoes 
in it. 

9. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil. It must not 
boil less than twenty minutes, or more than forty-five, 
according to the size of the potatoes. 

10. When you think the potatoes are sufficiently done, 

1 See Lessons First, Second, Third, and Fourth, on the cooking of pota- 
toes, in the chapter on " Vegetables." 



136 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

take a steel fork and try them, to see if they are tender 
all through. 

11. When they are quite boiled, drain off all the water 
from the saucepan, and sprinkle the potatoes with a little 
salt. 

12. Put the lid of the saucepan on, and stand the sauce- 
pan by the side of the fire, to steam the potatoes until 
they have become quite mealy and dry. 

13. Shake the saucepan every now and then, to prevent 
the potatoes from sticking to the bottom. 

14. When the haddock is sufficiently boiled, take it 
carefully out of the fish-kettle. 

15. Take a sharp knife and cut off the head and tail of 
the fish. 

16. Skin the fish from the head to the tail. 

17. Cut up the fish, and take out all the bones. 

18. Cut the fish up into small pieces the size of dice, 
and put them in a large basin. 

19. When the potatoes are steamed, take them out of 
the saucepan with a spoon. 

20. Have a wire sieve ready standing over a large plate. 

21. Rub the potatoes quickly through the sieve with a 
wooden spoon. 

22. Add the sifted potatoes to the haddock, and mix 
them well together with a wooden spoon. 

23. Add salt and pepper, and a few grains of Cayenne 
pepper, to taste. 

24. Put in two ounces of butter. 

25. Take one egg and beat it slightly in a basin. 

26. Pour the egg into the above mixture, and mix all 
together to a thick paste. 

27. Take a large-sized flat tin and butter it well with 
your fingers. 



FISH. 137 

28. Put the mixture on to this tin, and shape it as well 
as you can like a haddock. 

N. B. If preferred, the mixture can be formed into cutlets, or cro- 
quette shapes, or as fish-cakes, and egged and bread-crumbed and 
fried in dripping, as for lobster cutlets (see " Fish," Lesson Seventh, 
Note 34 to Note 40). 

29. Put some little bits of butter all about on the shape. 

30. Put the tin into a quick oven for a quarter of an 
hour. It should become a pale-brown color. 

Now make the Sauce : 

1. Take a stewpan and put in it two ounces of butter 
and one ounce and a half of flour. 

2. Mix them well together with a wooden spoon. 

3. Add half a teaspoonful of salt. 

4. Pour in half a pint of cold water. 

5. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir all smooth 
with a wooden spoon until it boils. 

6. Now add two tablespoonfuls of cream, and let it 
boil, stirring all the time. 

7. Stand the stewpan by the side of the fire. The 
mixture must not boil again, but only keep warm. 

8. Take a saucepan of warm water and put it on the 
fire to boil. 

9. When the water boils, put in two eggs, to boil for 
ten minutes. 

10. Put the eggs into cold water for a minute, and then 
shell them. 

11. Cut the eggs with a sharp knife into little square pieces. 

12. Take the stewpan of sauce off the fire and stand it 
on a piece of paper on the table. 

13. Add the cut-up eggs to the sauce, and stir them 
lightly in, not to break the pieces of egg, 

14. For serving, move the fish pudding carefully on to 
a hot dish, and pour the egg-sauce round. 



138 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 



LESSON THIRD. 



To Fry Whitebait: 

1. Wash the whitebait in iced water, pick them over 
carefully, and dry them well in a cloth. 

2. Take a sheet of paper and put on it a good teacup- 
ful of flour. 

3. Take the whitebait and sprinkle them in the flour. 
They must not touch each other, and you must finger 
them as little as possible. 

4. Take up the paper and shake the whitebait in the 
flour, so that they will be well covered with it. 

5. Turn the whitebait from the paper of flour into a 
fry ing-basket, and sift all the loose flour back on to the 
paper. 

6. Take a saucepan and put in it one pound and a half 
of lard or clarified dripping. 

7. Put the saucepan on the fire, to heat the fat. "When 
the fat smokes, it will then be hot enough. 

N. B. The fat requires to be much hotter for frying whitebait than 
for anything else. 

N. B. If possible, the fat should be tested by a frimometer, and the 
heat should rise to 400 Fahr. 

8. Then turn the whitebait, a few at a time, into the 
frying-basket, and put it into the fat for one minute. The 
whitebait should be quite crisp. 

9. Put a piece of whity-brown paper on a plate, stand 
the plate near the fire, and turn the fried whitebait on to 

1 We have no whitebait, but this lesson applies to smelts equally well. 



FISH. 139 

the paper, to drain off the grease. Serve them on a nap- 
kin on a hot dish. Lemon cut, and thin slices of brown 
bread and butter ', should be served with them. 



LESSON FOURTH, 



Ingredients. One sole. Parsley, and a quarter of a shallot. Four mush- 
rooms. A teaspoonful of lemon-juice. Salt and pepper. Two table- 
spoonfuls of glaze. Half an ounce of butter. Crumbs. 

Time required, about one hour. 

To Cook Sole an Gratin : 

1. Take a small sole and cut off, with a sharp knife, 
the outside fins. 

2. Cut through the skin only, across the head and the 
tail, on both sides of the fish. 

3. Take the skin off from the tail to the head. 

4. "Wash the sole in cold water and dry it with a cloth, 
and nick it with a knife on both sides. 

5. You can cook the sole in fillets if required, or 
whole. (N. B. If in fillets, then fillet the sole the same 
as for the fried fillets in Lesson Sixth.) You are now 
going to cook the sole whole. 

6. Take a small bunch of parsley and dry it well in a 
cloth. 

7. Chop the parsley up fine on a board. 

8. Chop a qua/rter of a shallot up fine, and mix it with 
the parsley. 

9. The chopped parsley and shallot should fill a table- 
spoon. 

1 All the directions here given for cooking sole, apply perfectly to the 
dressing and cooking of the American flounder. 



140 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

10. Take four small mushrooms, cut off the roots, and 
then wash the mushrooms well in a basin of cold water. 

11. Take them out of the water, dry them in a cloth, 
and peel them. 

12. Chop them up fine. 

13. Take a dish and spread a little butter on it with 
your fingers. 

14. Sprinkle half the chopped parsley, shallot, and 
mushroom over the bottom of the buttered dish. 

15. Pour half a teaspoonful of lemon-juice over the 
chopped parsley, shallot, and mushroom in the dish ; also 
sprinkle half a salt-spoonful of salt and a quarter of a 
salt-spoonful of pepper. 

16. Lay the sole carefully in the dish, and sprinkle over 
it the remainder of the chopped parsley, shallot, and 
mushroom. 

17. Sprinkle over the sole a little pepper and salt, and 
squeeze over it half a teaspoonful of lemon-juice. 

18. Take half an ounce of butter and cut it in small 
pieces, and put them over the sole. 

19. Pour over it two tallespoonfuls of half glaze. 

N.B. Glaze can be bought, or it can be made by reducing some 
strong stock over the fire. 

20. Take a wire sieve and put it over a piece of 
paper. 

21. Take some crumb of bread and rub it through the 
sieve. 

22. Take these bread-crumbs and put them on a flat tin. 
Put this tin into the oven, to dry and slightly brown the 
bread-crumbs. 

23. When the crumbs are done, sift them over the sole. 

24. Now put the dish into a brisk oven for ten minutes. 



FISH. 14-1 

Take a fork and prick in the thick part of the sole, to see 
if the fish is tender. 

25. Carefully move the sole with a slice on to a clean 
dish, and pour the sauce round. 



LESSON FIPTH. 
FILLETS OF SOLES A LA MAITEE D^HOTEL. 

Ingredients. Sole. Lemon-juice. Half an ounce of butter. Three-quar- 
ters of an ounce of flour. Half a gill of cream. 

Time required, about half an hour. 

To Cook Fillets of Soles a la Mattre d'Hdtel: 

1. Take one sole and fillet it the same way as the 
fried fillets in Lesson Sixth. 

2. Take the bones and fins of the sole and put them 
into a stewpan, with half a pint of water, and put it on 
the fire to boil. 

3. Take a flat tin pan and butter it with your fingers. 

4. Fold the fillets loosely over and lay them in the 
buttered tin. 

5. Sprinkle a little salt and squeeze a little lemon- 
juice over f them, and cover them with a piece of buttered 
paper. 

6. Put the tin with the fillets into a sharp oven for 
six minutes. 

Now make the Sauce : 

1. Take a small bunch of parsley, wash it, dry it, and 
chop it fine with a knife on a board. 

2. Take a stewpan and put in it one ounce of butter 
and three-quarters of an ounce of flour. 

3. Mix them smoothly together with a wooden spoon. 



142 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

4. Take the saucepan of fish-stock and pour it by de- 
grees through a strainer into the stewpan of butter and 
flour, stirring well. 

5. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the mixture 
smooth with a wooden spoon. Now add two tablespoon- 
fuls of cream, and stir it well until it boils. 

6. Take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a piece 
of paper on the table. 

7. Add the chopped parsley to the mixture. 

8. Add half a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pep- 
per to taste, and stir the sauce well. 

9. Now take the fillets out of the oven and arrange 
them on a hot dish for serving ; add the liquor from the 
fillets of soles, out of the tin, to the sauce. 

10. Pour the sauce over the fillets of soles. 

N. B. If there is no cream, the sauce can be made with milk ; the 
bones of the fish should therefore be boiled in half a pint of milk, 
instead of water. 

LESSON SIXTH. 
FRIED SOLES. 
Ingredients. Sole. One egg. Crumbs. 
Time required, about half an Jwur. 

To Fry Filleted Soles : 

1. Take one sole, wash it well, and lay it on a board. 

2. Take a sharp knife and cut off all the outside fins, 
the head, and the tail. 

3. Take the skin off the sole, from the tail to the head. 

4. Cut down the centre of the fish. 

5. Slide the knife along carefully between the fiesh 
and the bones, holding the flesh in one hand and drawing 
it gently away as the knife cuts it away from the bone. 



FISH. 143 

6. Do both sides of the fish alike, and it will make 
four fillets. 

7. Put each fillet separately on a plate, and rub it over 
with flour. 

8. Take a wire sieve and stand it over a piece of paper. 

9. Take some crumb of bread and rub it through the 
sieve. 

10. Take one egg and beat it on a plate with a knife. 

11. Lay the fillets in the egg, and egg them well all 
over with a brush. 

12. Then put them in the bread-crumbs and cover them 
well. Be careful to finger them as little as possible. 

13. Take a saucepan and put in it one pound and a 
half of lard or clarified dripping. 

Now make the Suiter-Sauce with Anchovy (see next 
page). 

14. Put the saucepan on the fire, to heat the fat. Test 
the heat of it by throwing in a piece of bread, and if it 
makes a fizzing noise, it is ready. 

N. B. The heat is tested best by a f rimometer ; it should rise to 345. 

15. Take a frying-basket and place in it the fillets. 

16. They should be slightly bent, or folded over, to 
prevent their being flat when fried. 

17. When the fat is quite hot, put in the frying-basket 
with the fillets for three minutes. 

18. Put a piece of whity-brown paper on a plate. 

19. When the fillets are done, they should be a pale 
brown. Turn them out on to the paper on the plate, to 
drain off the grease. 

20. Serve them in a hot dish on a napkin, garnished 
with a little fried parsley. (Kefer to " Fish," Lesson Sev- 
enth, Note 41.) 



144 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 



ANCHOVY-SAUCE. 

Ingredients* One ounce of butter. Half an ounce of flour. Anchovy- 
sauce. 

1. Take a stewpan and put in it one ounce of butter 
and half an ounce of flour. 

2. Mix them well with a wooden spoon. 

3. Add one gill and a half of cold water. 

4. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir well with a 
wooden spoon until the mixture is quite smooth and boils. 

5. Take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a piece 
of paper on the table. 

6. 'Now add one tablespoonful of anchovy-sauce, and 
stir it well into the butter-sauce. 

7. For serving, pour it into a sauce-boat. 



LESSON SEVENTH. 
LOBSTER CUTLETS. 

Ingredients. One lobster. One and one-half ounce of butter. Half a 
gill of cream. Seasoning and flavoring. One ounce of flour. One egg. 
Bread. Parsley. 

Time required, about three hours. 

To make Lobster Cutlets : 

1. Take a small lobster it should be a hen-lobster, if 
possible. 

2. Put the lobster on a board. 

3. Take a chopper and break the shell of the lobster, 
by hitting it with the blade of the chopper, not with the 
edge; first, because it would cut the lobster in pieces, 
and second, because it would spoil the edge of the chopper. 

4. Break all the shell off the claws and back with your 
fingers, and take out all the flesh. 



FISH. 145 

5. Cut this flesh up in pieces with a sharp knife, to 
the size of small dice. 

6. If the lobster is a hen-lobster, you will find a bit of 
coral in the neck, and a strip of it down the back. 

7. Take all this coral out of the lobster, and wash it 
carefully in cold water in a small basin. 

8. Take the coral out of the basin and put it in a mor- 
tar, with one ounce of butter. 

9. Pound the coral and the butter well with the 
pestle. 

10. Take it out of the mortar, and scrape it out quite 
clean with a palette-knife or slice of raw potato^ for none 
must be lost. 

11. Take a hair-sieve and put it over a plate. 

12. Pass the pounded mixture through the sieve with a 
wooden spoon. 

13. Turn up the sieve when all the mixture has passed 
through, and you will find some sticking inside. 

14. Scrape all this carefully off with the spoon. 

15. Make it all into a little pat. 

16. Take a stewpan and put in it one ounce of flour and 
half an ounce of butter. Mix them well together with a 
wooden spoon. 

17. Add one gill of cold water. Put the stewpan on 
the fire, and stir the mixture with a wooden spoon till it 
boils and thickens. 

18. Add one tdblespoonful of cream, and stir smooth 
until it boils. 

19. Take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a piece 
of paper on the table. 

20. Now stir in, by degrees, the pat of coral-butter. Be 
sure the sauce is quite smooth, and not lumpy. 

21. Add salt and pepper, and a few grains of Cayenne 



14:6 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

pepper, according to taste, and about six drops of lemon- 
juice, and mix well. 

22. Add the chopped lobster, and stir lightly not to 
break up the lobster, but only to mix it with the sauce. 

23. Take a clean plate and pour the mixture from the 
stewpan on to it, smoothing it with a knife. 

24. Take a piece of paper and cut it round to the size 
of the plate. Butter it with a knife. 

25. Put the buttered paper over the mixture which is 
in the plate, to prevent the dust from getting in. 

26. Take the plate and stand it on ice (if possible), or 
put it in a cold place to cool. 

27. Take a wire sieve and put it over a piece of paper. 

28. Take a piece of the crumb of bread and rub it 
through the wire sieve. 

29. Take one egg and beat it slightly with a knife on a 
plate. 

30. Take a saucepan and put in it one pound and a half 
of lard or clarified dripping. 

31. Put the saucepan on the fire, to heat the fat. It 
must not burn. 

32. Take the plate of lobster mixture, which should by 
this time be cold and rather stiff. 

33. Shape the mixture into cutlets. This quantity will 
make seven. 

34. Dip the cutlets into the egg, and egg them well all 
over with a brush. 

35. Take them carefully out of the egg, and cover them 
well with the bread-crumbs. 

N. B. If the cutlets are not well covered with egg and bread-crumbs, 
they will burst in the frying. 

36. Take a frying-basket and lay in it the lobster cut- 
lets, a few at a time, so as not to touch each other. 



FISH. 14-7 

37. When the fat is quite hot, test it by throwing into 
it a piece of bread. If it makes a sharp, fizzing noise, it is 
ready. 

38. Put the frying-basket into the fat for three minutes, 
or perhaps less. The cutlets should become a pale brown. 

39. Get a plate, with a piece of whity - brown paper on 
it, ready to receive the cutlets when they come out of the 
boiling fat. This is to strain all the grease from them. 

40. Take the small claws of the lobster and stick them 
into the end of each cutlet, to represent the bone. 

41. Take a few sprigs of parsley and put them into the 
frying-basket. 

42. Just toss the basket with the parsley into the boil- 
ing fat for a second. . 

43. Arrange the cutlets on a napkin on a hot dish, and 
garnish them with the fried parsley. 



LESSON EIGHTH. 
BOILED CODFISH AND OYSTEK-SAUCE. 

Ingredients. One dozen oysters. Half an ounce of butter. One-quarter 
of an ounce of flour. One tablespoonful of cream. Lemon-juice and 
Cayenne pepper. 

Time required, about twenty minutes. 

To Cook Codfish and make Oyster-Sauce : 

1. Take a slice of cod weighing one pound. 

2. Put it in a basin of cold water and wash it well. 

3. Take a small fish-kettle of boiling water and add to 
it as much salt as will make the water taste salt. 

4. Put the fish-kettle on the fire. 

5. Take the cod out of the basin and place it on the 
drainer in the fish-kettle, and let it boil for fifteen minutes. 

N. B. It must not boil fast. 



148 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

6. When the slice of cod is sufficiently cooked, the 
flesh will leave the bones. 

N. B. The bone is usually left in, or the fish would break to pieces. 

7. Serve the slice of cod on a folded napkin on a hot 
dish, with oyster-sauce. 

FOR OYSTER-SAUCE. 

1. Take one dozen oysters and the liquor that is with 
them, and put them into a small saucepan. 

2. Put the saucepan on the fire and bring them to the 
boil ; this is to blanch the oysters. 

3. Take the saucepan off the fire as soon as it boils. 

4. Take a basin and pour int;o it the oyster-liquor 
through a strainer. 

5. Take the oysters out of the saucepan and lay them 
on a plate. 

6. Take off the beards and all the hard parts of the 
oysters, leaving only the soft part. 

7. Take a stewpan and put in half an ounce of butter 
and a quarter of an ounce of flour. 

8. Mix the flour and the butter well together with a 
wooden spoon. 

9. Now add to the contents of the stewpan the oyster- 
liquor which is in the basin. 

10. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the mixture 
well with a wooden spoon until it boils and thickens, 

11. Now add one tablespoonful of cream, and stir again 
until it boils. 

12. Take the stewpan off the fire' and stand it on a 
piece of paper on the'table. 

13. Add six drops of lemon-juice and a few grains of 
Cayenne pepper, according to taste. 



FISH. 149 

14. Take the trimmed oysters and cut them into small 
pieces. 

15. Add the pieces of oyster to the mixture in the stew- 
pan, and mix all together with a wooden spoon. 



LESSON NINTH. 
BROILED SALMON AND TARTARE-SAUCE. 

Ingredients. Two eggs. Salt and pepper. A tablespoonful of French 
vinegar. Parsley. Gherkins or capers. One gill of oil. 

Time required, about fifteen minutes. 

To Cook Salmon : 

1. Take a thick slice of salmon weighing one pound. 

2. Cut it into two thin slices, as it will cook better 
than in a thick piece. 

3. Put the salmon in a basin of cold water and wash 
it well. 

. 4. Take it out of the basin and dry it well with a cloth. 

5. Take a plate and pour on it about a gill of salad-oil. 

6. Dip the slices of salmon into the oil on both sides ; 
the oil will prevent the fish from drying while cooking. 

7. Season the slices on both sides with pepper and salt. 

8. Take a gridiron and heat it on both sides by the 
fire ; this is to prevent the fish sticking. 

9. When the gridiron is hot, place on the slices of sal- 
mon, and let them grill for a quarter of an hour. 

10. Turn the gridiron occasionally, so as to cook the 
fish on both sides, which should become of a pale-brown 
color. 

11. When the fish is quite done, remove the bone in the 
centre of each slice. Serve the salmon on a napkin on a 
hot dish. 



150 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 



FOE TARTARE-SAUCE. 

1. Take two eggs, and put the yolks into one basin, 
and the whites (which will not be wanted) into another 
basin. 

2. Take a wooden spoon and just stir the yolks enough 
to break them. 

3. Add to them a salt-spoonful of salt and half a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of French vinegar. 

4. Take a bottle of salad-oil, and, putting your thumb 
half over the top, pour in, drop by drop, the oil, stirring 
well with a whisk the whole time ; a gill of oil will be 
sufficient. 

5. If the sauce is not sharp enough to taste, add a 
little more vinegar, stirring it in. smooth. 

6. Now stir in a teaspoonful of ready-made mustard, 
or tarragon- vinegar if it is liked. 

7. Take a small bunch of parsley and put it in a small 
saucepan of boiling water, with a little salt and soda, for 
two or three seconds. 

N. B. Soda is to keep the parsley green. 

N. B. This is called " blanching " or " parboiling " parsley. 

8. Take the parsley out and dry it thoroughly by 
squeezing it in a cloth. Put it on a board and chop it up 
fine. There should be a teaspoonful. 

9. Take a few gherkins or capers and chop them up 
fine on a board. There should be enough to fill a table- 
spoon. 

10. Take these chopped gherkins or capers, and the 
chopped parsley, and put them all into the sauce, and mix 
them in with a spoon. 

11. Serve the sauce in a sauce-tureen. 



FISH. 

LESSON TENTH. 
BAKED MACKEREL OR HERRING. 

Ingredients. Two mackerel or herrings. One dessertspoonful of chopped 
herbs and onions. One dessertspoonful of chopped parsley. One des- 
sertspoonful of bread-crumbs. Pepper and salt Two ounces of dripping. 

Time required, about forty minutes. 

To Bake MacJcerel or Herrings with herbs and bread- 
crumbs : 

1. "Wash the mackerel or herrings in cold water, dry 
them in a cloth, and put them upon a board, 

2. Take a sharp knife, cut off the heads of the fish, 
carefully split open each fish, and take out the back-bone. 

3. Lay one fish open flat on a tin (skin downward). 

4. Take a sprig of parsley, wash it in water, and dry 
it in a cloth. 

5. Put the parsley on a board, take away the stalks, 
and chop it up as fine as possible. There should be 
about a dessertspoonful. 

6. Take half an onion, peel it, put it on a board with 
a sprig of thyme and marjoram, and chop it up fine. 
There should be about a dessertspoonful. 

7. Take a grater, stand it on a board, and grate a few 
bread-crumbs. There should be about a dessertspoonful. 

8. Mix the onions, herbs, and bread-crumbs together. 

9. Sprinkle pepper and salt to taste over the fish in 
the tin. 

10. Then sprinkle over the fish the mixture of herbs 
and bread-crumbs. 

11. Take the other fish and lay it over the one in the 
tin (skin upward). 



152 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

12. Put two ounces of clarified dripping in a saucepan, 
and put it on the fire to melt. 

13. Pour the melted dripping over the fish in the tin. 

14. Cover the tin with a dish, and stand it on the hot 
plate or in the oven, to bake for half an hour, 

15. Watch it, and baste it occasionally with the dripping. 

16. For serving, turn the fish carefully out of the tin 
on to a hot dish. 

LESSON ELEVENTH. 
BAKED STUFFED HADDOCK. 

Ingredients. One haddock. Bread-crumbs. One dessertspoonful of 
chopped parsley. One teaspoonful of chopped herbs. Pepper and salt. 
Two ounces of suet. One egg. Two ounces of dripping. 

Time required, about three-quarters of an hour. 

To Stuff a Haddock and Bake it : 

1. Take a haddock, wash it, clean it carefully in cold 
water, and dry it in a cloth. 

2. Stand a grater on a piece of paper, and grate some 
bread-crumbs. 

3. Take a sprig of parsley, wash it in cold water, and 
dry it in a cloth. 

4. Put the parsley on a board and chop it up fine. 
There should be about a dessertspoonful. 

5. Take a small sprig of thyme and marjoram, remove 
the stalks, and chop the herbs up fine on a board. There 
should be about a teaspoonful. 

N. B. The stalks will do for flavoring, but they cannot be eaten, as 
they are bitter. 

6. Mix all the herbs together with two tablespoonfuls 
of the bread-crumbs. 

N. B. The remainder of the bread-crumbs will be required to roll 
the fish in. 



FISH. 153 

7. Add pepper and salt to taste, and mix the stuffing 
together with two ounces of suet. 

8. Stuff the belly of the fish with the stuffing, and 
sew it up. 

9. Break an egg into a plate, and brush the fish over 
with it ; then roll it in the bread-crumbs, covering it well 
all over. 

10. Grease a dish or tin with a piece of dripping. 

11. Lay the fish on the dish or tin, and put it into the 
oven, to bake for from half to three-quarters of an hour, 
basting it frequently with dripping. 



LESSON TWELFTH. 
FISH BAKED EST VINEGAE. 

Ingredients. Six herrings. Thirty pepper-corns. One blade of mace. 
One shallot. One bay-leaf. One gill of vinegar. Salt. 

Time required, about six hours. 

To Bake Fish (such as herrings or mackerel) in Vin- 
egar : 

1. Wash the fish and clean them thoroughly in cold 
water. 

2. Put the fish on a board and cut them into thick 
pieces. 

3. Lay these pieces close together in a stone jar, with 
thirty pepper-corns and half a teaspoonful of salt. 

4. Add one "blade of mace and a "bay-leaf. 

5. Take one shallot, peel it, and add it, or part of it 
(according to taste), to iheftsh. 

6. Pour in one gill of vinegar, and tie a piece of brown 
paper tightly over the top of the jar with a piece of string. 



154 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

7. Put the jar into a very slow oven, to bake for six 
hours / or it may stand in a baker's oven all night. 

N. B. The/sA is to be eaten cold. 

LESSON THIRTEENTH. 
FEIED PLAICE. 

Ingredients. One plaice. One egg. Bread-crumbs. Dripping for frying. 
Time required, about half an hour. 

To Fry Plaice in Egg and Bread-crumbs, or Batter : 

1. Put about half a pound of clarified drippmg into 
a saucepan, and put it on the fire to heat. 

2. Take the plaice, wash it in cold water, and dry it 
in a cloth. 

3. Put the plaice on a board, and, with a sharp knife, 
carefully remove the skin from the back side of the fish, 
and cut off the head and the tail. 

4. Hold a grater over a piece of paper, and grate some 
bread-crumbs. 

5. Cut up the jfoA into slices or fillets. 

6. Break an egg on to a plate, and beat it lightly with 
a knife. 

7. Dip the slices of fish into the egg, and egg them 
well all over. 

8. Then roll them in the bread-crumbs, covering them 
well. 

N. B. Shake off the loose crumbs. 

9. When the dripping is quite hot and smoking, care- 
fully put in the jfoA, fingering it as little as possible, so as 
not to take off any of the egg or bread-crumbs. 

N. B. Do not put too many pieces at a time into the dripping, as 
they must not touch each other. 



FISH. 155 

10. Put a piece of whity-brown paper on to a plate, 
and as the fish is fried, take it out of the dripping care- 
fully with a slice, and lay it on the paper, to drain off the 
grease. 

N. B. Soles, or any fish, can be fried in the same way. 

N. B. For frying fish in batter, dip each piece of fish in the batter, 
made as for meat fritters (see " Cooked Meat," Lesson Second), 
and fry it in the same way as above. 



LESSON FOURTEENTH. 
BOILED FISH. 

Ingredients (for Sauce). One dessertspoonful of corn-flour or arrow-root. 
One teaspoonful of vinegar or lemon- juice. 

Time required for boiling fish, about twenty minutes to three-quarters of an 
hourj according to the size of the fish. 

To Boil Fish and make the Sauce : 

1. Put a saucepan or fish-kettle of water on the fire 
to boil. 

2. Take the fish and clean it thoroughly in cold water. 

3. When the water is quite boiling, put in the fish on 
a strainer or a plate. There should be enough water just 
to cover the fish. 

4. Also put in some salt enough to make the water 
taste salt. 

5. Put the lid on the saucepan and move it to the side 
of the fire, to simmer gently for from twenty minutes to 
three-quarters of an hour (according to the size of the fish). 

6. You must watch it, and skim it occasionally. 

7. When you find that the skin of the fish is cracking, 
you may know that it is sufficiently boiled. 



156 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

While the^A is boiling, make the Sauce: 

8. Put a dessertspoonful of corn-flour or arrowroot 
into a small saucepan, and mix it into a smooth paste 
with cold water. 

9. Now add to it half a pint of the water in which 
the fish was boiled. 

10. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir it until it 
boils and thickens. 

11. Then take the saucepan off the fire and stand it on 
a piece of paper on the table. 

12. Flavor the sauce with a teaspoonful of vinegar or 
lemon-juice, and season it with pepper and salt according 
to taste. 

N. B. If liked, the sauce can be colored with half a teaspoonful of 
caramel (burnt sugar). (See note at end of " Brown Puree," 
"Australian Meat," Lesson Second.) 

13. For serving, take the fish carefully out of the sauce- 
pan and place it on a hot dish. Pour the sauce into a 
sauce-boat or a basin, or round the fish. 



CHAPTER XI. 
VEGETABLES. 



LESSON FIRST. 
BOILED AND STEAMED POTATOES. 

Time required for boiling : Old potatoes, about half an hour ; new potatoes, 
about twenty minutes ; steamed potatoes, half an hour. 

To Boil Old Potatoes : 

1. "Wash two pounds of potatoes well in cold water, 
and scrub them clean with a scrubbing-brush. 

N. B. If the potatoes are diseased, take a sharp knife, peel them, 
and carefully cut out the eyes and any black specks about the 
potato ; but it is much better to boil them in their skins. 

2. Put them in a saucepan with cold water enough to 
cover them, and sprinkle over them a teaspoonful of salt. 

3. Put the saucepan on the fire, to boil the potatoes 
for from twenty minutes to half an hour. 

4. Take a fork and put it into the potatoes, to try if 
the centre is quite tender. 

5. When they are sufficiently boiled, drain off all the 
water, and place a clean cloth over the potatoes in the 
saucepan. 

6. Stand the saucepan by the side of the fire, with the 
lid on, to steam the potatoes. 



158 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

7. "When the potatoes have become quite dry, take 
them carefully out of the saucepan, peel them without 
breaking them, and place them in a hot vegetable-dish for 
serving. 

To Boil New Potatoes : 

1. Wash two pounds of potatoes in cold water. 

2. Take a knife and scrape them. 

3. Take a saucepan of warm water and put it on the 
fire to boil. 

4. When the water is quite boiling, put in the new 
potatoes, and sprinkle over them a teaspoonful of salt. 

5. Let them boil for a quarter of an hour ; you should 
take a fork and put it into the potatoes, to feel if the cen- 
tre is quite tender. 

6. Then drain off all the water, and place a clean cloth 
in the saucepan over the potatoes, and stand the saucepan 
by the side of the fire, with the lid on. 

7. When they have become quite dry, take them out 
of the saucepan and arrange them on a hot vegetable-dish 
for serving. 

To Steam Potatoes : 

N.B. Old potatoes only can be steamed. 

1. Wash the potatoes well in cold water, and scrub 
them clean with a scrubbing-brush. 

N. B. It is best to steam the potatoes in their skins, but they can be 
peeled if preferred. 

2. Take a potato-steamer, fill the saucepan with hot 
water, and put it on the fire to boil. 

3. When the water is quite boiling, put the potatoes 
in the steamer, and sprinkle them over with salt. 



VEGETABLES. 159 

4. Place the steamer on the saucepan of boiling water, 
and cover it down tight, to keep the steam in. 

5. Let the potatoes steam for half an hour. 

6. Take a fork and put it into the potatoes, to feel if 
the centre is quite tender. 

7. When they are sufficiently steamed, take them care- 
fully out of the steamer and arrange them on a hot vege- 
table-dish for serving. 



LESSON SECOND. 
MASHED, SAUTE, AND BAKED POTATOES. 

Ingredients (for Mashed Potatoes). Two pounds of old potatoes. One 
ounce of butter. One gill of milk. Pepper and salt. 

Ingredients (for Saute" Potatoes). New Potatoes. Two ounces of butter. 
Salt. 

Time required for mashed potatoes, forty minutes ; for saute potatoes, half an 
hour ; for baked potatoes, three-quarters of an hour. 

For a dish of Mashed Potatoes : 

1. Take two pounds of old potatoes, wash them, and 
steam them, as for steaming potatoes (see " Vegetables," 
Lesson First). 

2. Take a stewpan and put in it one ounce of butter, 
one gill of milk, and pepper and salt to taste. 

3. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil. 

4. Place a wire sieve over a plate. 

5. Take the steamed potatoes one at a time out of the 
steamer, put them on the sieve, and pass them through on 
to the plate as quickly as possible, rubbing them with a 
wooden spoon. 

6. Take the sifted potato and stir it into the boiling 
milk in the stewpan. 



160 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

7. Now beat it all lightly together, and then turn it 
into a hot vegetable-dish for serving. 

For Saute Potatoes : 

1. Take some new potatoes, as small as possible, wash 
them in cold water, and scrape them clean. 

N. B. If the potatoes are large, they should be cut in halves, or even 
in quarters, and trimmed. 

2. Put them in a saucepan with cold water. 

3. Put the saucepan on the fire, and only just bring 
them to the boil. 

4. Then drain off the water, and wipe the potatoes 
dry in a clean cloth. 

5. Take a thick stewpan and put in it two ounces of 
butter and the potatoes. 

6. Put the stewpan on a quick fire for about twenty 
minutes, to brown the potatoes. Watch them, and when 
they have begun to brown, toss them occasionally in the 
stewpan, so as to brown them on all sides alike. 

7. Then strain off the butter, sprinkle them over with 
salt, and serve them on a hot vegetable-dish. 

For Baked Potatoes : 

1. Take the potatoes, wash and scrub them well with 
a scrubbing-brush, in a basin of cold water. 

2. Take them out of the water and dry them with a 
cloth. 

3. Put them in a brisk oven to bake. They will take 
from half to three-quarters of an hour to bake, according 
to the heat of the oven and the size of the potatoes. 

4. Take a steel fork, or skewer, and stick it into the 
potatoes, to see if they are done. They must be soft 
inside. 



VEGETABLES. 161 

5. Take a table-napkin, fold it, and place it on a hot dish. 

6. When the potatoes are done, take them out of the 
oven and arrange them on the napkin for serving. 



LESSON THIRD. 
FKIED POTATOES. 

Ingredients. One pound of potatoes. Salt. The use of one and one- 
half pound of clarified fat or lard, for frying. 

Time required, about eight minutes. 

For Potato Chips : 

1. "Wash the potatoes well in cold water, and scrub 
them clean with a scrubbing-brush. 

2. Take a sharp knife, peel them, and carefully cut out 
the eyes and any black specks about them. 

3. Now peel the potatoes very thinly in ribbons, and 
twist them into fancy shapes. 

4. Take a saucepan and put in it one pound and a 
half of clarified fat or lard. 

5. Put the saucepan on the fire, to heat the fat. Test 
the heat of it with a piece of bread (see Lesson on " Fry- 
ing"). 

6. Take a fry ing-basket and put in it the ribbons of 
potato. 

7. When the fat is quite hot, put in the frying-basket 
with the potatoes for about six minutes. 

8. Place a piece of whity-brown paper on a plate. 

9. When the chips are done, they should be quite crisp 
and of a pale-brown color. Turn them out on to the 
paper, to drain off the grease, and sprinkle over them a 
little salt. 

10. Serve them on a hot dish. 



162 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

For Fried Slices of Potato : 

1. Take the potatoes, wash them clean, and peel them 
with a sharp knife. 

2. Put the potatoes on a board, and cut them in slices 
about one-eighth of an inch in thickness. 

3. Take a saucepan and put in it one and a half pound 
of clarified dripping or lard. 

4. Take a frying-basket and place in it the sliced 
potatoes. 

5. Put the saucepan on the fire, to warm the fat. 

6* When the fat is warm, but not very hot, place in it 
the frying-basket with the slices of potatoes, and let them 
boil in the fat until they are quite tender. 

N. B. You should take out a piece of potato and press it between the 
thumb and finger, to feel that it is quite tender. 

7. Now take out the frying-basket with the potatoes 
and place it on a plate. 

8. Leave the fat on the fire to heat. 

9. When the fat is quite hot, place in the frying-bas- 
ket with the potatoes for about two minutes. 

10. Put a piece of whity- brown paper on a plate. 

11. When the potatoes are fried, they should be a pale- 
brown color. Turn them out on to the paper, to drain 
off the grease. 

12. Sprinkle a little salt over them. 

13. For serving, arrange them on a hot dish. 



VEGETABLES. 163 

IESSON FOURTH. 
POTATO CROQUETTES. 

Ingredients (for eighteen croquettes). Two pounds of potatoes. One 
ounce of butter. One tablespoonful of milk. Three eggs. A small 
bunch of parsley. Bread-crumbs. Pepper and salt. 

Time required, about one hour. 

To make Potato Croquettes : 

1. Take two pounds of potatoes, wash, scrub, and boil 
or steam them (see " Vegetables," Lesson First). 

N. B. Any remains of cold potatoes could be used up in this way, 
instead of boiling fresh ones. 

2. Place a wire sieve over a plate. 

3. Take the potatoes one at a time, place them on the 
sieve, and rub them through with a wooden spoon as 
quickly as possible on to the plate. 

N. B. The potatoes can be passed through the sieve much quicker 
while they are hot. 

4. Put one ounce of butter and a tablespoonful of milk 
into a stewpan, and put it on the fire. 

5. "When the milk and butter are hot, stir in smoothly 
the sifted potato. 

6. Take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a piece 
of paper on the table. 

7. Break two eggs, put the whites in a cup (as they are 
not required for present use), and stir the yolks, one at a 
time, into the potato in the stewpan. 

8. Take two or three sprigs of parsley, wash them in 
cold water, dry them in a cloth, and chop them up finely 
on a board. There should be about a teaspoonful. 



164 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

9. Sprinkle the parsley into the stewpan, and season 
the potato according to taste with pepper and salt. 

10. Turn the potato mixture on to a plate, and stand it 
aside till cold. 

11. Put one pound of clarified dripping into a deep 
stewpan, and put it on the fire to heat ; be careful that it 
does not burn. 

12. Take some crumb of bread and rub it through a 
wire sieve on to a piece of paper. 

13. When the potato mixture is cold, form it into cro- 
quettes or balls, according to taste. 

14. Break an egg on to a plate, and beat it up slightly 
with a knife. 

15. Dip the croquettes into the egg, and egg them well 
all over with a paste-brush. 

16. Now roll them in the bread-crumbs, covering them 
well all over. 

N. B. Be careful to cover them smoothly, and not too thickly. 

17. Take a frying-basket and arrange the croquettes in 
it ; but you must finger them as little as possible, and not 
allow them to touch each other. 

18. When the fat on the fire is quite hot and smoking 
(test the heat by throwing in a piece of bread, which 
should fry brown directly), put in the frying-basket for 
two minutes or so, to fry the croquettes a pale-yellow. 

19. Put a piece of whity- brown paper on a plate, and 
as the croquettes are fried, turn them on to the paper, to 
drain off the grease. 

20. Put three or four small sprigs of parsley (washed 
and dried) into the frying-basket, and just toss the basket 
into the boiling fat for a second or so. 

21. For serving, arrange the croquettes tastily on a hot 
dish, with the fried parsley in the centre. 



VEGETABLES. 165 

LESSON FIFTH. 
BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

Ingredients. Brussels sprouts. Salt. One-quarter of a salt-spoonful of 
carbonate of soda. One ounce of butter. Pepper. 

Time required, about half an hour. 

To Dress Brussels Sprouts : 

1. Take the Brussels sprouts, wash them well in two 
or three waters, and trim them. 

2. Take a saucepan with plenty of warm water in it. 

3. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil. 

4. When the water is quite boiling, add a tablespoon- 
ful of salt and a quarter of a salt-spoonful of carbonate of 
soda. 

5. Put in the sprouts, and let them boil quickly for 
from ten to twenty minutes, according to their age. 

N. B. Young sprouts take the shortest time to boil. 

6. Keep the lid off the saucepan the whole time. 

7. After that time, pour the sprouts into a colander to 
drain. 

8. When the sprouts are quite dry, put them in a 
saute-pan with one ounce of butter. 

9. Sprinkle over them a little pepper and salt, and toss 
them over the fire for a few minutes ; but they must not 
fry. 

10. For serving, arrange them tastily on a hot vegeta- 
ble-dish. 



166 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON SIXTH. 
CARROTS AJTO TURNIPS. 

Ingredients. Carrots or turnips. Two tablespoonfuls of salt. Half a 
pint of good stock. Dessertspoonful of castor-sugar. Half an ounce of 
butter. 

Time required, about three-quarters of an hour. 

For Carrots: 

1. Take a saucepan of water and put it on the fire to 
boil. 

2. When the water is quite boiling, add a tdblespoon- 
ful of salt. 

3. Take the carrots, and if they are quite young, put 
them into the saucepan of boiling water, to boil for 
twenty minutes. 

4. Take a fork and stick it in the carrots, to feel that 
they are quite tender all through. 

5. You should let them boil for from half an hour to 
three-quarters of an hour. 

6. After that time, take them out of the saucepan and 
rub them clean with a cloth. 

N. B. If the carrots are old, you should wash, scrape them clean 
with a knife, and cut them to the shape of young carrots, or cut 
them out with a round cutter, before boiling. 

7. Take a stewpan and put the boiled carrots in it. 

8. Pour in some good stock enough to cover them. 

9. Put in a piece of butter the size of a nut, and sprin- 
kle a little white castor-sugar over them. 

10. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil, and reduce to a 
glaze over the carrots. 

11. Then take them out of the stewpan, and they are 
ready for use. 



VEGETABLES. 167 

For Turnips : 

1. Take the turnips and wash them well in cold water. 

2. Take them out of the water, put them on a board, 
peel them with a sharp knife, and cut them in quarters, 
or cut them out with a round cutter. 

3. Take a saucepan of water and put it on the fire to 
boil. 

4. "When the water is quite boiling, add a tablespoon- 
f ul of salt. 

5. Now put in the cut-up turnips, and let them boil 
for from ten to fifteen minutes. 

6. "When they are sufficiently boiled, take them out of 
the saucepan and put them into a stewpan with some good 
stock enough to cover them. 

7. Add to them a piece of ~butter, and sprinkle over 
them about a teaspoonful of castor-sugar. 

8. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil, and reduce to a 
glaze over the turnips. 

9. Then take them out of the stewpan, and they are 
ready for serving. 

N.B. Turnips and carrots as prepared above may be served with 
braised veal (see "Braised Fillet of Veal"), or separately as a 
vegetable. 

LESSON SEVENTH. 
BOILED CAULIFLOWER, AND CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIS. 

Ingredients. Cauliflower. Salt. Half an ounce of butter. One ounce 
of flour. Tablespoonful of cream. Two ounces of Parmesan cheese. 
Cayenne pepper. 

Time required, about one hour. 

To Dress a Cauliflower : 

1. Take a cauliflower and wash it well in two or three 



168 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

waters, and take a knife and cut off the end of the stalk 
and any withered outside leaves. 

2. Put it in a basin of cold water with a dessertspoon- 
ful of salt, and let it stand for two or three minutes. 

3. Take a large saucepan full of water and put it on 
the fire to boil. 

4. When the water is quite boiling, put in a table- 
spoonful of salt. 

5. Take the cauliflower out of the salt and water and 
place it in a saucepan, with the flower downward, and let it 
boil till it is quite tender from fifteen to twenty minutes. 

6. Take it out with a slice, and feel the centre with 
your finger, to see that it is quite tender. 

7. When done, take it out of the saucepan and put 
it on a sieve. 

8. For serving, place it on a hot vegetable-dish. 

If Cauliflower au Gratin be required : 

1. Take the cauliflower and wash it, and boil it in the 
same way as described above, from Note 1 to Note 6. 

2. When the cauliflower is sufficiently boiled, take it 
out of the saucepan with a slice and put it on a plate. 

3. Take a knife and cut off all the outside green leaves. 

4. Take a cloth and squeeze all the water out of the 
cauliflower. 

5. Put half an ounce of butter and one ounce of flour 
into a stewpan, and mix them well together with a 
wooden spoon. 

6. Pour in one gill of cold water. 

7. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir smoothly until 
it boils and thickens. 

8. Now add one tdblespoonful of cream, a little 8<dt y 
and a few grains of Cayenne pepper -, according to taste. 



VEGETABLES. 169 

9. Stand the stewpan by the side of the fire, until the 
sauce is required for use. 

10. Take two ounces of Parmesan cheese and grate it 
with a grater on to a piece of paper. 

11. Now take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a 
piece of paper on the table. 

12. Stir rather more than half the grated cheese into 
the sauce. 

13. Place the cauliflower on a tin dish. 

14. Pour the sauce all over the cauliflower. 

15. Take the remainder of the grated cheese and sprin- 
kle it over the cauliflower, and brown the top of it with a 
hot salamander. 

16. The cauliflower should become a pale-brown, and 
be served hot. 



LESSON EIGHTH. 
SPINACH. 

Ingredients. Two pounds of spinach. Salt. Three ounces of butter. 
Half a gill of cream. Pepper. A slice of bread. 

Time required, about half an hour. 

To Dress Spinach : 

1. Take two pounds of spinach and place it on a board. 

2. Pick off all the stalks from the leaves. 

3. Put the leaves in plenty of cold water, and wash 
them two or three times. 

4. Turn the spinach on to a colander to drain. 

5. Take a large saucepan and put the spinach into it ; 
sprinkle a salt-spoonful of salt over it, and put it on the 
fire to boil. The drops of water on the leaves and their 
own juice are sufficient, without adding any water. 



170 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

6. Let it boil quickly for ten minutes, with the cover off. 

7. Then pour the spinach into the colander to drain. 

8. Now press all the water out of the spinach, squeez- 
ing it quite dry. 

9. Put it on a board and chop it up as finely as pos- 
sible. 

N. B. If preferred, the spinach might be rubbed through a wire sieve, 
instead of being chopped up. 

10. Take a stewpan and put in it one ounce of butter. 

11. Put the spinach into the stewpan, and add about 
half a saltrspoonful of pepper and a salt-spoonful of salt, 
or more, according to taste, and half a gill of cream, and 
mix all together with a wooden spoon. 

12. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir until it is 
quite hot. 

13. Cut a slice of crumb of bread about a quarter of an 
inch in thickness, put it on a board, and cut it up into 
triangular pieces. 

14. Take a frying-pan and put into it two ounces of but- 
ter or clarified dripping. 

15. Put the frying-pan on the fire, to heat the fat. 

16. When the fat is quite hot, throw in the pieces of 
bread, and let them fry a pale-brown. 

17. Take the pieces of fried bread and arrange them 
round a hot vegetable-dish, to form a wall. 

18. Serve the dressed spinach in the centre. 



VEGETABLES. 171 

LESSON NINTH. 
PEAS. 

Ingredients* Half a peck of peas. Salt. Quarter of a Bait-spoonful of 
carbonate of soda. Half an ounce of butter. Castor-sugar. 

Time required, about half an hour. 

To Dress Peas : 

1. Take the peas and shell them. 

2. Take a saucepan full of warm water and put it on 
the fire to boil. 

3. When the water is quite boiling, put in the shelled 
peas, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a salt-spoonful 
of carbonate of soda. 

N. B. The soda will keep the peas a good color. 

4. Let them boil for from fifteen to twenty minutes^ 
according to the age of the peas. (The cover should be 
off the saucepan.) 

5. After that time, feel the peas, that they are quite 
soft ; then take them out of the saucepan, and drain off all 
the water in a colander. 

6. Now turn the peas into a saute-pan, with half an 
ounce of lutter. 

7. Sprinkle half a teaspoonful of salt and a teaspoon- 
ful of castor-sugar over the peas, and toss them over the 
fire for a few minutes ; but they must not fry. 

8. Eor serving, arrange them on a hot vegetable-dish. 



172 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON TENTH. 
HAKICOT BEANS. 

Ingredients. One pint of beans. One ounce of butter. A sprig of par- 
sley. Pepper and salt. Quarter of an ounce of clarified dripping. 

Time required (after the beam are soaked), about two hours and ten minutes. 

To Boil Haricot Beans, and serve them with parsley 
and "butter : 

1. Soak one pint of haricot beans in cold water all 
night. 

2. Put them into a saucepan with three pints of cold 
water and a quarter of an ounce of clarified dripping. 

3. Put the saucepan on the fire, and when it boils, 
move it rather to the side of the fire, and let it boil very 
gently for two hours. 

4. After that time, turn the beans on to a colander, 
drain off the water, and put the beans back into a dry 
saucepan, with one ounce of Gutter. 

5. Take a sprig of parsley, wash it, and dry it in a 
cloth, put it on a board, and chop it up as finely as pos- 
sible. 

6. Sprinkle the parsley over the beans, and season 
them with^?^?^ and salt. 

7. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir the contents 
carefully for about ftve minutes. 

8. For serving, turn the beans on to a hot dish. 



VEGETABLES. 173 

LESSON ELEVENTH. 

TURNIPS. 

Ingredients* Four large turnips. One ounce of butter. Pepper and salt. , 
Time required, about three-quarters of an hour. 

To Boil Turnips and Mash them : 

1. Put two quarts of warm water and a tdblespoonful 
of salt into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to boil. 

2. Take some turnips, wash them in cold water, and 
peel them thickly with a sharp knife. 

3. If the turnips are very large, cut them in quarters. 

4. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
put in the turnips, and let them boil gently until they are 
quite tender. 

5. Feel them with a fork, to see if they are tender all 
through. 

6. Then turn them into a colander and drain them 
very dry. 

7. For serving, put them on to a hot dish. 

If Mashed Turnips are required : 

8. Boil them as above. 

9. Squeeze them as dry as possible in the colander, 
pressing them with a plate. 

10. When the turnips are quite free from water, hold 
the colander over a saucepan and rub them through with 
a wooden spoon. 

11. Put one ounce of butter into the saucepan with the 
turnips, and pepper and salt to taste. 

12. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir the contents 



174: LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

until the butter is well mixed with the turnips and they 
are thoroughly warmed through. 

13. For serving, turn them on to a hot dish. 



LESSON TWELFTH. 
CAKROTS. 

To Boil Carrots: 

1. Put two quarts of warm water into a saucepan, 
with one good tdblespoonful of salt and a small piece of 
soda the size of a chestnut, and put it on the fire to boil. 

2. Take the carrots and cut off the green tops, and 
wash them well in cold water. 

3. Scrape the carrots clean with a sharp knife, and 
carefully remove any black specks. 

4. If the carrots are very large, cut them in halves and 
quarters. 

5. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
put in the carrots and let them boil until they are tender. 

N. B. Young carrots need not be cut up, nor do they take so long to 
boil as old ones. 

6. For serving, turn the carrots into a colander to 
drain, and then put them on a hot dish. 



LESSON THIRTEENTH. 
BICE. 

To Boil Rice: 

1. Take a large stewpan and pour in it four quarts of 
water. 

2. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil the water. 

3. Take half a pound of rice, put it in a basin of cold 
water, and wash it well. 



VEGETABLES. 175 

4. Drain off the water and rub the rice with your hands. 

5. Be careful to pick out all the yellow grains and bits 
of black. 

6. Wash the rice in this manner four times. 

7. Just before putting the rice on to boil, you must 
pour some fresh cold water over it. 

8. When the water in the stewpan is quite boiling, 
throw the rice into it, stirring it round with a spoon. 

9. Add one-quarter of a teaspoonf ul of salt, which will 
make the scum rise. 

10. Take a spoon and skim it occasionally. 

11. The rice should boil fast from fifteen to twenty 
minutes. 

N. B. To test if the rice is sufficiently boiled, take out a grain or two, 
and press it between the thumb and finger, and if quite done, it 
will mash. 

12. Now pour the rice out of the saucepan into a colan- 
der, to drain off the water. 

13. Take the colander which contains the rice and hold 
it under the tap. 

14. Turn the tap and let the cold water run on to the 
rice for one or two seconds. This is to separate the grains 
of rice. 

15. Take a clean dry stewpan and put it at the side of 
the fire. 

16. "When the water is quite drained from the rice, 
turn it from the colander into the dry stewpan at the side 
of the fire. 

17. Put the lid half on the stewpan. 

18. Watch it, and stir it occasionally, to prevent the 
grains from sticking to the bottom of the stewpan. 

19. When the rice is quite dry, take it out carefully with 
a wooden spoon, and place it lightly on to a hot dish. 



176 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON FOURTEENTH. 
MACARONI. 

Ingredients. One-half a pound of macaroni. Salt. One quart of skimmed 
milk. Two ounces of cheese. One ounce of butter. Pepper and Cay- 
enne pepper. 

Time required, about one hour and three-quarters. 

To Cook Macaroni : 

1. Take half a pound of macaroni, wash it, and put it 
in a saucepan of cold water, with one tdblespoonful of salt. 

2. Put the saucepan on the fire, bring it to the boil, 
and let it boil gently for half an hour. 

3. After that time, pour the water out of the saucepan. 

4. Put one quart of skimmed milk into the saucepan. 

5. Put the saucepan on the fire, just bring it to the 
boil, and then move it to the side of the fire, and let it 
simmer gently for one hour. 

6. When the macaroni is sufficiently cooked and quite 
tender, turn it out on a hot dish, and it can be eaten with 
sugar or treacle. 

N. B. If liked, macaroni and cheese can be made of it. 

7. For macaroni and cheese, take two ounces of cheese 
and grate it with a grater on to a piece of paper. 

8. Take a dish, or a tin, and grease it well inside with 
a piece of dripping or butter. 

9. When the macaroni is sufficiently cooked (as above), 
turn it out of the saucepan on to the greased dish. 

10. Sprinkle over it pepper and salt, and two or three 
grains of Cayenne pepper, according to taste ; or, about 
half a teaspoonful of mustard might be mixed with it. 

11. Stir part of the grated cheese into the macaroni, 
and sprinkle the remainder over the top. 



VEGETABLES. 177 

12. Take one ounce of butter, cut it in small pieces, 
and put these pieces of butter about on the top of the 
macaroni. 

13. Put the dish in the oven (the heat should rise to 
240), or in a Dutch oven before the fire, for ten minutes ; 
it should become a pale-brown. 

14. It will then be ready for serving. 



LESSON FIFTEENTH. 
STEWED MACARONI. 

Ingredients. Half a pound of macaroni. Salt and pepper. One pint of 
stock. 

Time required, about forty minutes. 

To Stew Macaroni : 

1. Take half a pound of macaroni, wash it, and put it 
in a saucepan, with plenty of cold water and a dessert- 
spoonful of salt. 

2. Put the saucepan on the fire, bring it to the boil, 
and let it boil gently for ten minutes. 

3. After that time, put the macaroni into a colander, 
take it to the tap, and turn some cold water on it. 

4. Now let the macaroni drain in the colander. 

5. Then turn it on a board and cut it up in pieces. 

6. Put one pint of stock into a saucepan. 

7. Put the macaroni into the stock, and season it with 
pepper and salt according to taste. 

8. Put the saucepan on the fire, just bring it to the 
boil, and then move the saucepan to the side of the fire, 
and let it simmer gently for twenty minutes. 

N. B. The lid should be on the saucepan. 

9. For serving, turn the macaroni out on a hot dish. 



CHAPTER XII. 
SAUCES. 

LESSON FIRST. 
WHITE SAUCE. 

Ingredients. One pint of white stock. Two ounces of butter. One and 
one-half ounce of flour. Six mushrooms. Half a pint of cream. 

Time required (if the stock is made\ about half an hour. 

To make White Sauce : 

1. Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan. 

2. Put the stewpan on the fire, and when the butter 
is melted, stir in one ounce and a half of flour with a 
wooden spoon. 

3. Add one pint of white stock, and stir it until it 
boils (see Lesson on " Stock "). 

4. Take half a dozen mushrooms, wash them, and 
peel them. 

5. Add them to the sauce. 

6. Let it come to the boil again ; then move the stew- 
pan to the side of the fire, with the lid half on, to simmer 
for i/wenty minutes, to throw up the butter. 

7. As the butter rises, skim it off with an iron spoon. 



SAUCES. 1Y9 

8. Strain the sauce through a tammy-cloth into an- 
other saucepan. 

9. Put this saucepan on the fire, and stir till it boils ; 
then add half a pint of cream. 

10. Pour it into a basin and stir while it cools. It is 
then ready for use. 



LESSON SECOND. 
BROWN SAUCE. 

Ingredients. One pint of brown stock. One and one-half ounce of flour. 
Salt and pepper. Two ounces of butter. Four mushrooms. 

Time required, about fifteen minutes. 

To make Brown Sauce : 

1. Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, and put it 
on the fire to melt. 

2. Take four mushrooms, if large, or six small, wash 
them well in cold water, cut off the ends of the stalks, 
and peel them. 

3. "When the butter in the stewpan is melted, stir in 
two ounces of flour, and mix them into a smooth paste 
with a wooden spoon. 

4. Now add one pint of brown stock and the mush- 
rooms, and stir the sauce smoothly over the fire until it 
boils and thickens. 

N. B. The mushrooms might be omitted if liked, and the sauce fla- 
vored according to the dish with which it is to be served. 

5. Then move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and 
let it simmer gently for ten minutes. 

6. Watch it carefully, and skim off all the butter as it 
rises to the top of the sauce. 



180 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

7. Season the sauce with pepper and salt according to 
taste. 

N. B. If the sauce is not brown enough in color, a teaspoonful of 
caramel (burnt sugar] might be stirred into it. 

8, Now strain the sauce through a tammy-sieve into a 
basin, and it is then ready for use. 



LESSON THIRD. 
MAYONNAISE SAUCE. 

Ingredients. Two eggs. Salt and pepper. One teaspoonful of French 
vinegar. One teaspoonful of mustard. One teaspoonful of tarragon 
vinegar. One gill of salad-oil. 

Time required, about ten minutes. 

To make Mayonnaise Sauce : 

1. Take two eggs, and put the yolks in one basin and 
the whites (which will not be wanted) into another basin. 

2. Take a wooden spoon and just stir the yolks enough 
to break them. 

3. Add to them a salt-spoonful of salt and half a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of French vin- 
egar. 

4. Take a bottle of salad-oil, and, putting your thumb 
half over the top, pour in, drop by drop, the oil, stirring 
well with a whisk the whole time. A gill of the oil will 
be enough. 

N. B. Add a teaspoonful of ready-made mustard, or tarragon vinegar 
if liked, stirring it in smoothly. 

5. The sauce is now ready for use. 



SAUCES. 181 

LESSON FOURTH. 
SAUCE PIQUANTE. 

Ingredients. One shallot. Half a carrot. Three mushrooms. One ounce 
of butter. One ounce of flour. Half a pint of good brown stock. One 
sprig of thyme. One bay-leaf. Salt and Cayenne pepper. Two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar. 

Time required, about twenty-five minutes. 

To make Sauce Piquante, or Sharp Sauce : 

1. Take a shallot and three mushrooms, and peel them, 
scrape half a carrot, and then chop them up very finely 
on a board. 

2. Put the shallot, carrot, and mushrooms into a stew- 
pan with one ounce of butter. 

3. Put the stewpan on the fire and fry them brown. 

4. Then stir in one ounce of flour and half a pint of 
good brown stock (see Lesson on " Stock "). 

5. Also add one sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and one 
tablespoonful of Harvey sauce, and stir the sauce well 
until it boils. 

6. Then remove the stewpan to the side of the fire, 
and let it simmer for twenty minutes. 

7. Season the sauce with salt according to taste, a few 
grains of Cayenne pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of vin- 
egar. 

8. Strain the sauce, and it is then ready for use. 



182 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON FIFTH. 
DUTCH SAUCE. 

Ingredients. Half a pint of melted butter. Five yolks of eggs. Salt and 
Cayenne pepper. Two teaspoonfuls of lemon-juice. 

Time required, about ten minutes. 

To make Dutch Sauce: 

1. Take half a pint of melted butter and put it into 
a stewpan. 

2. Add the yolks of five eggs. 

3. Stand the stewpan in a saucepan of hot water over 
the fire, and stir well with a wooden spoon. 

4. Season it with salt and a few grains of Cayenne 
pepper. 

5. Stir continually until it thickens; and you must 
not let the sauce boil, or it will curdle. 

6. Just before the sauce is finished, stir in two tea- 
spoonfuls of lemon-juice. 



CHAPTER XIII. 
PASTRY. 

LESSON FIEST. 
PUFF-PASTE. 

Ingredients. Quarter of a pound of flour. Quarter of a pound of fresh 
butter. Yolk of one egg. Salt. A few drops of lemon-juice. 

Time required, one hour and a quarter. 

To make Puff-Paste : 

1. Take a quarter of a pound of flour and put it in a 
heap on a clean board, and make a well in the centre of 
the flour. 

2. Put half of the yolk of an egg in the well. 

3. Add six drops of lemon-juice. 

4. Lay a quarter of a pound of butter in a clean cloth. 

5. Fold the cloth over the butter and squeeze it, to get 
all the water out of the butter. 

6. Mix all these ingredients together with your hands, 
adding water to make the paste of the same consistence 
as the squeezed butter. 

7. Take a rolling-pin and flour it, and also sprinkle a 
little flour on the board, to prevent the paste from sticking. 

8. Roll out the paste rather thin, to about a quarter of 
an inch in thickness. 



184: LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

9. Place the pat of squeezed butter on one-half of the 
paste, and fold the other half over the butter so as to 
cover it entirely, pressing the edges together with your 
thumb. 

10. Let it stand on a plate in a cool place for a quarter 
of an hour. 

N. B. It is not necessary to do this in cold weather ; it might be 
rolled at once. 

11. Bring the paste back and place it on the board; 
roll it out with the rolling-pin, and fold it over in three. 

12. Turn it round, with the rough edges toward you. 

13. Roll it again and fold it in three. 

14. Put it aside again for a quarter of an hour. 

15. Bring it back on the board and roll it with a rolling- 
pin, and fold in three twice, as before. 

16. Put it aside again for a quarter of an hour. 

17. Bring it back to the board and roll it and fold it in 
three as before. 

18. Put it aside for another quarter of an hour. 

19. Bring it back to the board and roll it out ready 
either to cover an apple-tart, to make tartlets, or patty- 
cases. 

20. If the paste is used for an apple-tart, put it over the 
apples in the same way as the short crust over the fruit- 
tart (see " Pastry," Lesson Second). 

21. If the paste is used for tartlets, it should be one- 
eighth of an inch thick. 

22. Take the tartlet-tins and wet them with the paste- 
brush. 

23. Cut the paste out with a cutter a size larger than 
the tins. The cutter must be floured, or the paste will 
stick to it. 



PASTRY. 185 

24. Fix the paste into the tins, and put a dummy, to 
prevent the paste rising straight. 

25. Put the tins on a baking-sheet. 

26. Put the baking-sheet in a hot oven for six minutes; 
the heat of the oven should rise to 300 Fahr., according 
to the thermometer fixed in the oven. 

27. When the tartlets are baked sufficiently, take them 
out of the oven. 

28. Take out the dummies, and turn the paste out of 
the tin. 

29. Fill in the tartlets with jam. 

If Patty- Cases are required: 

1. Take the puff-paste (it should be half an inch thick) 
and stamp it out with a round cutter, the usual size of an 
oyster patty. 

2. Take these cut rounds and place them on a baking- 
sheet. 

3. Take a round cutter, three sizes smaller, and dip it 
in hot water, and stamp the cut rounds of paste in the 
centre, but not right through. 

4. Put the baking-sheet in a hot oven for six minutes. 

N. B. The heat of the oven should be the same as for tartlets. 

5. When the patties are sufficiently baked, take the 
baking-sheet out of the oven. 

6. The cut centre of each patty-case will have risen so 
that we can take it off. 

7. Take a small knife, and with the point cut out all 
moist paste from the centre of the patty-case. 

8. Now the cases are ready to be filled in with either 
prepared oysters, minced veal} chicken, or pheasant, etc., 
according to taste. 



186 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 



LESSON SECOND. 
SHORT CKTJST. 

Ingredients. Six ounces of flour. Four ounces of butter. One ounce of 
powdered sugar. Yolk of one egg. Salt. A teaspoonful of lemon-juice. 

Time required for making, about a quarter of an Juntr. 

To make Short Crust : 

1. Take six ounces of flour and four ounces of butter. 

2. Put these on a clean board and mix them well to- 
gether, rubbing them lightly with your hands until there 
are no lumps of butter left, and the flour and butter re- 
semble sifted bread-crumbs. 

3. Take a large tablespoonful of powdered sugar. 

4. Mix the sugar well into the buttered flour. 

5. Heap it on the board, making a well in the centre. 

6. Take the yolk of one egg and place it in the well. 

7. Sprinkle a quarter of a salt-spoonful of salt over 
the egg. 

8. Add a teaspoonful of lemon-juice. 

9. Add a large tablespoonful of cold water. 

10. Slowly and lightly mix all these ingredients with 
your fingers until they are formed into a stiff paste. 

11. Keep your hands and the board well floured, that 
the paste may not stick. 

12. Fold the paste over, and knead it lightly with your 
knuckles. ^ 

13. Take a rolling-pin and flour it, and roll out 
paste to the size and thickness required. 

14. If the paste is for a fruit-tart, roll it out to the shape 
of the pie-dish, only a little larger, and to the thickness of 
about a quarter of an inch- 



PASTRY. 187 

15. Arrange the fruit in the pie-dish, heaped up in the 
centre. 

16. Sprinkle a tablespoonful of moist sugar over the 
fruit, or more or less, according to the fruit used. 

17. Take a paste-brush, and wet the edge of the dish 
with water or a little white of egg. 

18. Cut a strip of the paste the width of the edge of the 
pie-dish, and place it round the edge of the dish. 

19. Take the paste-brush again, and wet the edge of the 
paste with water or white of egg. 

20. Take the remaining paste and lay it over the pie- 
dish, pressing it down with your thumb all round the 
edge. 

21. Be very careful not to break the paste. 

22. Take a knife and trim off all the rough edges of the 
paste round the edge of the dish. 

23. Take a knife and with the back of the blade make 
little notches in the edge of the paste, pressing the paste 
firmly with your thumb, to keep it in its proper place. 

24. Take a skewer and make a little hole through the 
paste on either side of the tart, to let out the steam. 

25. Take the paste-brush and wet the tart all over with 
water. 

26. Sprinkle some powdered sugar over it; this is to 
glaze it. 

27. Now put the tart into a hot oven (the heat of the 
oven should rise to 240 Fahr.) for half an hour or three- 
quarters of an hour, acceding to the size of the tart. 
"Watch it occasionally, and turn it, to prevent its burning. 
It should become a pale-brownt 



188 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON THIED. 
GENOESE PASTRY. 

Ingredients. Six ounces of flour. Six ounces of butter. Eight ounces 
of powdered sugar. Seven eggs. 

Time required, about one Jwur. 

To make Genoese Pastry : 

1. Take a small stewpan and put in it six ounces of 
butter. 

2. Put the stewpan on the fire, to melt the butter. 
Be careful that it does not burn or boil. 

3. Take a round tin two inches deep, and fit into it a 
sheet of paper, cut round so that it will allow one inch of 
paper to be above the edge of the tin. 

4. Butter the paper with a paste-brush dipped in the 
melted butter. 

5. Stand a wire sieve over a plate, and rub through it 
six ounces of flour. 

6. Take a large basin and break into it seven eggs. 

7. Add half a pound of powdered sugar. 

8. Take a large saucepan of boiling water and put it 
on the fire. 

9. Stand the basin with the eggs and sugar in the 
saucepan of boiling water, and whip the eggs and sugar 
for twenty minutes ; they must not get very hot. 

10. Take the basin out of the saucepan and stand it on 
the table. 

11. Now add the butter, and then sprinkle in the sifted 
flour, stirring lightly with a wooden spoon all the time. 

12. Pour this mixture into the prepared tin. 

13. Put the tin into a quick oven, to bake for half an 
hour. The mixture should become a pale-brown. 



PASTRY. 189 

N. B. When the paste is sufficiently baked, no mark should remain 
on it if pressed with the finger. 

14. When it is quite baked, take the tin out of the oven 
and turn the cake upside down on a hair-sieve, to cool. 

15. When it is cold, cut it into little shapes with a 
cutter. Sandwiches of jam can be made with it if required. 



LESSON FOURTH. 
ROUGH PUFF-PASTE. 

Ingredients. Eight ounces of flour. Six ounces of butter. The yolk of 
one egg. Salt. One-half a teaspoonful of lemon-juice. 

Time required, about a quarter of an hour. 

To make Bough Puff-Paste: 

1. Take eight ounces of flour and six ounces of butter ', 
and put them on a clean board. 

2. Take a knife and chop up the butter in the flour. 

3. Heap it on the board, making a well in the centre. 

4. Take the yolk of one egg and place it in the well. 

5. Sprinkle a quarter of a salt-spoonful of salt over the 
egg, and squeeze half a teaspoonful of lemon-juice. 

6. Add a large tablespoonful of cold water, and beat it 
up slightly with a knife. 

7. Now slowly, and lightly, mix it all with your fin- 
gers, adding more water if necessary, until it is formed 
into a stiff paste. 

8. Keep your hands and the board well floured, that 
the paste may not stick. 

9. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out the paste, 
and fold it over in half. 

10. Turn it round with the rough edges toward you. 



190 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

11. Koll it again, and fold it in half. 

12. Koll out the paste and fold it twice more, as before. 

N. B. The paste is now ready to be used for a meat-pie, apple-tart, 
tartlets, etc. The heat of the oven should rise to 280, but it must 
be reduced down to 220 after the first quarter of an hour. 



LESSON FIFTH. 
SUET-CKTJST FOK BEEF-STEAK PUDDING. 

Ingredients* Half a pound of flour. Five ounces of beef-suet. Two 
pounds of rump or beef steak. Pepper and salt. One dozen oysters. 
One gill of stock. 

Time required, about three hours and a half. 

To make Suet- Crust >, to be used for either a Beef -steak 
Pudding or Roly-Poly, etc. : 

1. Take^w ounces of beef -suet and put it on a board. 

2. Take a knife and cut away all the skin, and chop 
up the suet as fine as possible. 

3. Put half a pound of flour into a basin, and add to 
it the chopped suet and a teaspoonful of salt. 

4. Rub the suet well into the flour with jour hands. 

5. Then add, by degrees, enough cold water to make it 
into a smooth paste. You should mix it well. 

6. Take the paste out of the basin, and put it on a 
board. 

7. Take a rolling-pin and flour it. Sprinkle flour on 
the board, to prevent the paste from sticking. 

8. Roll out the paste once, to the thickness of rather 
more than one-eighth of an inch. 

N. B. Now the paste is ready for use ; and if it is required for beef- 
steak pudding 



PASTRY. 191 

9. Take a quart pudding-basin and butter it well in- 
side. 

10. Line the basin smoothly inside with paste. 

11. Take a knife, flour it, and cut away the paste that is 
above the edge of the basin. 

12. Fold this paste together, and roll it out to a round 
the size of the top of the basin, one-eighth of an inch in 
thickness. 

13. Take two pounds of rump or beef steak, put it on a 
board, and cut it into thin slices. 

14. Flour the slices well (using about a tciblespoonful of 
flour), and season them with plenty of pepper and salt. 

15. Take one dozen oysters and the liquor that is with 
them, and put them into a saucepan. 

16. Put the saucepan on the fire, and just bring them to 
the boil. 

N. B. This is to blanch the oysters. 

17. Take the saucepan off the fire, and strain the oyster- 
liquor into a basin. 

18. Take the oysters and lay them on a plate. 

19. Cut off the beards and all the hard parts of the oys- 
ters, leaving only the soft part. 

20. Roll up the slices of beef-steak, and fill the basin 
with the meat and the oysters. 

N. B. If oysters be disliked, kidneys might be used instead, or the 
pudding might be flavored with shallot, parsley, and mushrooms, 
according to taste. 

21. Now pour into the basin the liquor from the oysters, 
and one gill of stock (see Lesson on " Stock"). 

22. "Wet the paste round the edge of the basin with cold 
water, and cover over the top of the basin with the round 
of paste. 



192 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

23. Join the paste together at the edge of the basin, 
pressing down with your thumb. 

24. Flour a pudding-cloth and lay it over the top of the 
basin, tying it on tightly with a piece of twine. 

25. Put a large saucepan of warm water on the fire to 
boil. 

26. "When it is quite boiling, put in the pudding and let 
it boil for three hours. 

27. For serving, take off the cloth and turn the pudding 
out of the basin on to a hot dish. 



LESSON SIXTH. 
SHORT CRUST FOR APPLE TURNOVERS AND APPLE DUMPLINGS. 

Ingredients. Three-quarters of a pound of flour. One-quarter of a pound 
of clarified dripping or butter. Half a teaspoonful of baking-powder. 
Three apples. Three teaspoonfuls of moist sugar. 

To make Apple Turnovers : 

1. Peel, quarter, and core three apples, and cut them 
into thin slices. 

N. B. One apple is required for each turnover. 

N. B. To make fruit-pie or apple dumplings, see below. 

2. Put three-quarters of a pound of flour into a basin, 
and mix into it half a teaspoonful of baking-powder. 

3. Rub well into the flour, with your hands, a quarter 
of a pound of clarified dripping or butter. 

4. Add enough cold water to moisten, and mix into a 
stiff paste. 

5. Flour a board and turn the paste on to it. 



PASTRY. 193 

6. Flour a rolling-pin, and roll oufc the paste to about 
a quarter of an inch in thickness. 

7. Cut the paste into rounds; each round should be 
about the size of a small plate. 

8. Lay the apple on one-half of the round of paste, and 
sprinkle over it one teaspoonful of moist sugar. 

9. Wet the edges of the paste, fold the paste over the 
apple, pressing the edges together with your thumb. 

N.B. Be careful to join the paste together on all sides, or the juice 
of the apple will run out while it is cooling. 

10. Grease a tin with a little dripping, and place the 
turnovers on it. 

11. Put the tin into the oven (the heat of it should rise 
to 220) to bake for a quarter of an hour. 

12. For serving, place the turnovers on a hot dish. 

For Baked Apple Dumplings : 

1. Divide the paste into three portions. 

2. Take three apples, peel them, and cut out the core 
from the centre. 

N. B. Do not cut the apples in pieces. 

3. Fill the centre of the apples with moist sugar. 

4. Press each apple into the centre of each portion of 
paste, and gradually work the paste over the apple, until 
the apple is entirely covered in. 

N. B. You must be very careful to join the paste together as neatly 
as possible, so as not to show the join ; and there must be no 
cracks in the paste. 

5. Grease a tin as described above, place the dumplings 



194: LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

on it, and put it in the oven (the heat should rise to 220) 
to bake for a quarter of an hour. 

6. For serving, take the dumplings off the tin, and put 
them on a hot dish. 

1. If the paste is for a Fruit-Pie^ roll it out to the 
shape of the pie-dish, only a little larger, and to the thick- 
ness of about a quarter of an inch. 

2. Arrange the fruit in the pie-dish, heaped up in the 
centre. 

3. Sprinkle a tablespoonful of moist sugar over the 
fruit, or more or less, according to the fruit used. 

4. Take a paste-brush and wet the edge of the dish 
with water, or a little white of egg. 

5. Cut a strip of the paste the width of the edge of the 
pie-dish, and place it round the edge of the dish. 

6. Take the paste-brush again and wet the edge of the 
paste with water or white of egg. 

7. Take the remaining paste and lay it over the pie- 
dish, pressing it down with your thumb all round the edge. 

8. Be veiy careful not to break the paste. 

9. Take a knife and trim off all the rough edges of the 
paste round the edge of the dish. 

10. Take a knife, and with the back of the blade make 
little notches in the edge of the paste, pressing the paste 
firmly with your thumb to keep it in its proper place. 

11. Take a skewer and make a little hole through the 
paste on either side of the tart, to let out the steam. 

12. Take the paste-brush and wet the tart all over with 
water. 

13. Sprinkle some pounded loaf-sugar over the tart, to 
glaze it. 

14. Now put it into the oven (the heat should rise to 



' : -' BHOtD SC1EJ 
PASTRY. 195 

240) for half or three-quarters of an hour, according to 
the size of the tart. Look at it occasionally, and turn it to 
prevent its burning. It should become a pale-brown. 

N.B. If better crust is wanted for apple turnovers, see "Pastry," 
Lesson Second. 

LESSON SEVENTH. 
FLAKY CRUST FOR PIES AND TARTS. 

Ingredients. One pound of flour. Half a pound of butter. Two eggs. 
One teaspoonful of baking-powder. 

Time required to make the pastry , about a quarter of an hour. 

To make Flaky Crust for Pies or Tarts : 

1. Put one pound of flour into a basin, and mix into it 
a teaspoonful of baking-powder. 

2. Break two eggs, put the whites on a plate (the yolks 
put aside in a cup), and whip them to a stiff froth with a 
knife. 

3. Add the whipped whites of the eggs to the flour, 
and mix it into a stiff paste with water (about one gill). 

4. Flour a board and turn the paste out on it. 

5. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out the paste to 
a thin sheet. 

6. Divide the half pound of butter into three portions. 

7. Take one portion of the butter and spread it all over 
the paste with a knife. 

8. Sprinkle a little flour over the butter, and fold the 
paste into three. 

9. Flour the rolling-pin and roll out the paste, and 
spread another portion of the butter over it. 

10. Fold the paste as before, roll it out, and add the re- 
mainder of the butter. 



196 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

11. Then fold the paste again, and roll it out to the size 
and thickness required either for a fruit-pie or an open tart. 

N. B. This crust should be baked in a quick oven (the heat should 
rise to 240). 

N. B. The top of a fruit-pie should be brushed over with water, and 
then sprinkled with pounded white sugar. 

N. B. For an open tart, take a tin (the size required) and grease it 
with clarified dripping or butter. Roll out the paste to a thin sheet 
about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and rather larger than the 
size of the tin. Place the paste in the greased tin, pressing it into 
the shape of the tin with your thumb. Place a dummy, or a piece 
of crust of bread, in the centre of the paste, to prevent the paste 
from rising while baking. Put the tin in the oven to bake for 
twenty minutes. The jam should be put into the tart after it is 
baked. 



CHAPTER XIV. 
PUDDINGS. 

LESSON FIRST. 
CABINET PUDDING. 

Ingredients. One dozen cherries or raisins, and two or three pieces of 
angelica. One dozen finger-biscuits and half a dozen ratafias. One ounce 
of loaf-sugar and fifteen drops of essence of vanilla. Four eggs. One 
pint of milk. 

Time required, about one hour. 

To make a Cabinet Pudding : 

1. Take a pint-and-a-half mould and butter it inside 
with your fingers. 

2. Take a dozen raisins or dried cherries, and two or 
three pieces of angelica, and ornament the bottom of the 
mould with them. 

3. Take one dozen stale sponge finger-biscuits l and 
break them in pieces. 

4. Partly fill the mould with pieces of cake and half a 
dozen ratafias? 

5. Take four yolks and two whites of eggs and put them 
in a basin. 

1 To be had at the baker's. 

8 For sale at all large grocery-houses. 



198 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

6. Add to the eggs one ounce of white sugar, and whip 
them together lightly. 

7. Stir in, by degrees, one pint of milk. 

8. Flavor it by adding fifteen drops of essence of va- 
nilla. 

9. Pour this mixture over the cakes in the mould. 

10. Place a piece of buttered paper over the top of the 
mould. 

11. Take a saucepan half full of boiling water, and 
stand it on the side of the fire. 

12. Stand the mould in the saucepan, to steam for from 
three-quarters of an hour to an hour. 

N.B. The water should only reach half-way up the mould, or it 
would boil over and spoil the pudding. 

13. For serving, turn the pudding carefully out of the 
mould. on to a hot dish. 

N. B. For a cold " Cabinet Pudding," see " Puddings," Lesson Twen- 
ty-seventh. 



LESSON SECOND. 
LEMON PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Three lemons. Six ounces of sugar. Six eggs. One gill of 
cream. One gill of milk. Three ounces of cake-crumbs. One inch of 
cinnamon-stick. 

Time required, about one hour. 

To make a Lemon Pudding : 

1. Take three lemons -, wipe them clean in a cloth, and 
grate the rind of them on six lumps of sugar. 

2. Take an inch of the stick of cinnamon and put it in 
a mortar. 

3. Pound the cinnamon well in the mortar with the 
sugar. 



PUDDINGS. 199 

4. Put this into a basin. 

5. Take three ounces of cake-crumbs and add to the 
above in the basin, and mix all well together. 

6. Take the three lemons, cut them in halves, and 
squeeze the juice of them into the basin through a strainer. 

7. Add the yolks of six eggs, and beat them in with 
the above. (Two of the whites of eggs put on a plate, 
the others put aside.) 

8. Stir in well and smoothly one gill of cream and one 
gill of milk with a wooden spoon. 

9. Whip the whites of the two eggs to a stiff froth 
with a knife, and add them at the last moment to the 
above mixture, stirring it lightly. 

10. Take a pie-dish and line the edge of it with puff- 
paste (see " Pastry," Lesson First). 

11. Pour the mixture into the pie-dish. 

12. Put the pie-dish in the oven (the heat of it should 
rise to 220), to bake till the mixture is set and of a light- 
brown color. It is then ready for serving. 



LESSON THIED. 
APPLE CHARLOTTE. 

Ingredients. Two pounds of apples. Half a pound of loaf-sugar. The 

rind of one lemon. Bread and clarified butter. 
Time required, about two hours and a half. 

To make an Apple Charlotte : 

1. Take two pounds of good cooking-apples and peel 
them thinly with a sharp knife. 

2. Take a knife and cut them in slices, and take out 
the core. 

3. Put these sliced apples into a stewpan, with suffi- 
cient sugar to sweeten them, and one gill of water. 



200 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

4. Take a lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and peel it 
very thin. 

5. Take the rind of the lemon and tie it together with 
a piece of twine, and put it in the stewpan with the apples. 

6. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir well with a 
wooden spoon until it boils, and the apples are reduced to 
about half the quantity. It will take from one hour to 
one hour and a half. 

7. Take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a 
piece of paper on the table, and take out the lemon-peel. 

8. Take a plain round tin mould (about one pint and 
a half). 

9. Cut a slice of the crumb of bread, one-eighth of an 
inch in thickness, and round to the size of the mould. 

10. Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan to 
melt and clarify. 

11. Cut the round of bread into quarters^ dip them in 
the clarified butter, and place them at the bottom of the 
mould. 

12. Now cut slices of the crumb of bread one-eighth of 
an inch in thickness, and the depth of the mould in length. 

13. Cut these slices into strips an inch wide. 

14. Dip these strips into the clarified butter, and place 
them round inside the mould, allowing them to lie half 
over each other. 

15. Now pour the apples into the middle of the mould. 

16. Cover the apples with a round of bread dipped in 
the clarified butter. 

17. Put the mould into a good oven (the heat of the oven 
should be about 220), to bake for three-quarters of an hour. 

N. B. The bread should be quite brown and crisp. 

18. For serving, turn it carefully out of the mould on 
to a hot dish. 



PUDDINGS. 201 

LESSON FOURTH. 
PANCAKES. 

Ingredients. Three ounces of flour. Two eggs. Half a pint of milk. 
Half a salt-spoonful of salt. Three ounces of lard. The juice of one- 
quarter of a lemon. Two ounces of moist sugar. 

Time required, about twenty minutes. 

To make Pancakes (this quantity will make about 
eight) : 

1. Take three ounces of flour and put it in a basin. 

2. Add a salt-spoonful of salt, and mix it well into the 
flour. 

3. Break two eggs into the flour, and add a dessert- 
spoonful of milk, and mix all well together with a wooden 
spoon. 

4. Stir in gradually half a pint of milk, making the 
mixture very smooth. 

N. B. -If possible, it is better to let this mixture stand before frying 
it into pancakes. 

5. Put a frying-pan on the fire and put into it a piece 
of lard the size of a chestnut, and let it get quite hot, but 
it must not burn. 

6. Then pour into the frying-pan two large table- 
spoonfuls of the batter, and let it run thinly all over the 
pan. 

7. When the pancake has become a light-brown on one 
side, shake the pan, and toss the pancake over, to brown 
the other side the same. 

8. Stand a plate on the hot plate, or in the front of 
the fire, to heat. 



202 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

9. When the pancake is fried, turn it on to this heated 
plate. 

10. Squeeze a few drops of lemon-juice, and sprinkle a 
little moist sugar over it. 

11. Now roll it up and place it on the edge of the plate, 
so as to leave room for the remainder of the pancakes. 

N. B. Fry all the pancakes in this manner, adding each time a piece 
of lard the size of a chestnut. 

12. For serving, arrange the pancakes on a hot dish, 
placing one on the top of the other. 



LESSON FIFTH. 
KICE PUDDING. 

Ingredients. One and a half ounce of rice. Butter. One tablespoonful 
of moist sugar. One pint of milk. 

Time required, about two hours. 

To make a plain Rice Pudding : 

1. Take &pint disk and butter it well inside. 

2. Take one ounce and a half of rice and wash it well 
in two or three waters. 

3. Put the rice into a buttered dish and sprinkle over 
it a tablespoonful of moist sugar. 

4. Fill up the dish with new milk. 

N. B. Nutmeg may be grated, or pounded cinnamon be sifted, over 
the top of the pudding before it is put in the oven. 

5. Put the dish into a moderate oven (the heat should 
be about. 220) to bake for two hours. 

6. "Watch it occasionally, and as the rice soaks up the 
milk, more milk should be added (carefully lifting up the 
skin and pouring the milk in at the side), so as to keep 
the dish always full. 



PUDDINGS. 203 

LESSON SIXTH. 
CUSTARD PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Four eggs. One pint of milk. Grated nutmeg. One table- 
spoonful of powdered sugar. Butter and flour for paste. 

Time required, about thirty-five minutes. 

To make a Custard Pudding : 

1. Take a pint-and-a-half dish, butter it well inside, 
and line the edge with paste. (See " Pastry," Lesson Sec- 
ond.) 

2. Break four eggs and pnt the yolks into a basin. 
(Put two whites of eggs on a plate, the others put aside.) 

3. Stir one pint of milk in with the eggs. 

4. Add a tdblespoonful of castor sugar. 

5. "Whip the whites of the two eggs with a knife to a 
stiff froth and add it to the basin, mixing it all lightly. 

6. Pour this custard into the buttered dish lined with 
paste. 

7. Grate half a teaspoonf ul of nutmeg over the top. 

8. Put the dish into a moderate oven (the heat should 
rise to 220) to bake for half an hour. It is then ready 
for serving. 

LESSON SEVENTH. 
PLUM PUDDING. 

Ingredients. One-half pound of beef-suet. Half a pound of currants. 
Half a pound of sultanas, or raisins. One-quarter of a pound of mixed 
candied peel, viz., citron, lemon, and orange. One-quarter of a pound of 
bread-crumbs. One-quarter of a pound of flour. Half a pound of moist 
sugar. One lemon. Four eggs. One gill of milk. One wineglassful of 
brandy. Two ounces of almonds. One-quarter of a teaspoonful of salt. 
Half a nutmeg. 



204: LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

Ingredients (for wine or brandy sauce). Three eggs. One gill of cream 
or milk. One wineglassful of brandy or sherry. One dessertspoonful of 
sugar. 

Time required, about five hours and a half. 

To make a Plum Pudding : 

1. Put a saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil. 

2. Take half a pound of beef-suet, put it on a board, 
cut away all the skin, and chop up the suet as finely as 
possible with a sharp knife. 

3. Take half a pound of currants, wash them clean in 
water, and rub them dry in a cloth. 

4. Take up the currants in handfuls, and drop them, a 
few at a time, on to a plate, so as to find out if there are 
any stones with them. 

5. Take half a pound of sultana raisins and pick them 
over. 

N. B. If large raisins are used, they should be stoned. 

6. Place a wire sieve over a piece of paper. 

7. Take some crumb of bread and rub it through the 
sieve. (There should be a quarter of a pound of bread- 
crumbs.) 

8. Take a quarter of a pound of mixed peel citron, 
lemon, and orange and cut it up into small pieces. 

9. Put a quarter of a pound of flour into a kitchen- 
basin, and add to it the chopped suet and half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt. 

10. Rub the suet well into the flour with your hands. 

N. B. Be careful not to leave any lumps. 

11. Now add the bread-crumbs, the currants and raisins, 
half a pound of moist sugar, and the pieces of candied 
peel, and mix all well together. 



PUDDINGS. 205 

12. Take a lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and grate the 
rind of it into the basin. 

13. Grate half a nutmeg into the basin, and add two 
ounces of almonds (previously blanched and chopped up 
finely). 

14. Break four eggs into a basin, and add to them one 
gill of milk and a wineglassful of brandy. 

15. Stir this into the ingredients in the basin, mixing 
them all together. 

16. Take a strong pudding-cloth, sprinkle about a tea- 
spoonful of flour over it, and lay it in a basin. 

17. Turn the mixture from the basin into the centre of 
the floured cloth. 

18. Tie up the pudding tightly in the cloth with a piece 

of string. 

^ 

N. B. If preferred, the pudding might be put into a buttered mould, 
and a cloth tied over the top. 

19. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
put in the pudding, and let it boil for five hours. 

20. For serving, take the pudding out of the cloth and 
turn it on to a hot dish. 

N. B. Brandy or wine sauce (see below) can be served with the pud- 
ding, if liked, either poured over it or served separately in a sauce- 
boat. 



FOR BEANDY OE WINE SAUCE. 

1. Put three yolks of eggs into a small stewpan. 

2. Add a dessertspoonful of pulverized sugar, one gill 
of cream or milk, and a wineglassful of brandy or sherry, 
and whisk all well together with a whisk. 

3. Take a saucepan, fill it half full of hot water, and 
put it on the fire. 



206 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

4. Stand the stewpan in the saucepan of hot water and 
whisk the sauce well for about six or eight minutes. 

N. B. Be careful that the sauce does not boil, or it will curdle. 

5. After that time take the stewpan out of the saucepan. 

6. Pour the sauce over the plum pudding (see above), 
or into a sauce-boat. 



LESSON EIGHTH. 
VENNOISE PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Five ounces of crumb of bread. Two ounces of candied 
peel. Three ounces of powdered sugar. One ounce of lump sugar. One 
lemon. Four eggs. Half a pint of milk. One gill of cream. Three 
ounces of sultana raisins. One wineglassful of sherry. 

Time required^ about two hours. 

To make a Vennoise Pudding : 

1. Take a piece of stale crumb of bread (about five 
ounces), put it upon a board, and cut it up in the shape of 
dice. 

2. Put the bread into a basin with three ounces of pow- 
dered sugar and three ounces of sultana raisins. 

3. Take a lemon, wipe it clean with a cloth, and grate 
the rind of it into the basin. 

4. Chop up two ounces of candied peel and put it into 
the basin. 

5. Pour in a wineglassful of sherry. 

6. Put a saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil. 

7. Put one ounce of lump sugar into a stewpan and 
put it on the fire to brown. 

8. When it has become a dark-brown color, add to it 
half a pint of milk, and stir it until the milk is sufficiently 
colored. 

N. B. Be careful that the sugar is quite dissolved, and no lumps left. 



PUDDINGS. 207 

9. Then stand the stewpan on a piece of paper on the 
table. 

10. Pat the yolks of four eggs into a basin (the whites 
should be put aside, as they are not required for present use). 

11. Pour the colored milk into the eggs, stirring well 
all the time. 

12. Stir the milk and eggs into the ingredients in the basin. 

13. Also add one gill of cream. 

14. Take a pint-and-a-half mould and butter it inside. 

15. Pour the pudding into the mould. 

16. Butter a piece of kitchen-paper and lay it over the 
top of the mould. 

17. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
place in the mould to steam (the water should only reach 
half-way up the mould, or it will boil over and get into 
the pudding). 

18. Let the pudding steam for one hour and a half. 

19. For serving, take the buttered paper off from the 
top of the mould, and turn the pudding out carefully on to 
a hot dish. 

N. B. German sauce (see " Puddings," Lesson Tenth) can be served 
with the pudding, if liked, either poured round it or served sepa- 
rately in a sauce-boat. 

LESSON NINTH. 
AMBEE PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Six apples. Three ounces of moist sugar. One lemon. 
Two ounces of butter. Three eggs. Puff-paste. 

Time required, about one hour and one-quarter. 

To make an Amber Pudding : 

1. Take six large apples, peel them, cut out the core, 
and cut them up into slices. 



208 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

2. Put the apples into a stewpan, with three ounces of 
moist sugar and two ounces of butter. 

3. Take a lemon, wipe it clean with a cloth, and peel 
it as thin as possible with a sharp knife. 

4. Cut the lemon in half and squeeze the juice through 
a strainer into the stewpan. 

5. Also add the lemon-peel. 

6. Put the stewpan on the fire and let it stew till the 
apples are quite tender (it will take about three-quarters 
of an hour). 

7. Place a hair sieve over a large basin. 

8. When the apples are sufficiently stewed, pour them 
on to the sieve and rub them through into the basin with 
a wooden spoon. 

9. Stir the yolks of three eggs into the basin. 

10. Take a pie-dish (about one pint\ and line the edge 
with puff-paste (see " Pastry," Lesson First). 

N. B. If you have no puff-paste, short paste (see " Pastry," Lesson 
Second) will do. 

11. Pour the mixture into the pie-dish, and put it in the 
oven '(the heat should be 240) for twenty minutes. 

12. Whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth. 

13. When the pudding is a light-brown, take it out, 
spread the whipped whites of the eggs over the top, and 
sift about a dessertspoonful of powdered sugar over it. 

14. Put the dish back in the oven till the icing is a light- 
brown ; the pudding is then ready for serving. 



PUDDINGS. 209 

LESSON TENTH. 
BROWN-BREAD PUDDING. 

Ingredients. A loaf of brown bread. One lemon. Half a teaspoonful of 
essence of vanilla. One gill of milk. One gill of cream. Four eggs. 
Three ounces of powdered sugar. 

Ingredients (of German sauce). Two eggs. One wineglassful of sherry. 
One dessertspoonful of powdered sugar. 

Time required, about one hour and a half. 

To make a Brown-Bread Pudding : 

1. Take a stale brown loaf and cut off all tne crust. 

2. Put a wire sieve over a plate and rub the crumb of 
bread through it. 

3. Put one gill of milk into a stewpan, and put it on 
the fire to boil. 

4. Put five ounces of the bread-crumb into a basin, 
with three ounces of powdered sugar. 

5. Take a lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and grate the 
rind over the bread-crumbs. 

6. Add half a teaspoonful of essence of vanilla. 

7. Put a stewpan full of warm water on the fire to boil. 

8. "When the milk boils, pour it over the crumbs. 

9. Put one gill of cream into a basin, and whip it to a 
stiff froth with a whisk. 

10. Add the cream to the other ingredients, and also stir 
in, one at a time, the yolks of four eggs (the whites of two 
of the eggs put on a plate, the others put aside). 

11. Whip the whites of the two eggs to a stiff froth 
with a knife, and then stir them lightly into the basin, 
mixing all the ingredients together. 

12. Take a pint mould and butter it well inside. 



210 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

13. Pour the mixture into the mould, butter a piece of 
kitchen-paper, and place it over the top. 

14. When the water in the stewpan is quite boiling, 
stand the mould in it to steam the pudding (the water 
should only reach half-way up the mould, or it will boil 
over and spoil the pudding). 

15. Let it steam for one hour and a quarter. 

16. For serving, take off the buttered paper, and turn 
the pudding on to a hot dish. 

GERMAN SAUCE. 

1. Put the yolks of two eggs into a stewpan, with a 
wineglassful of sherry and a dessertspoonful of powdered 
sugar. 

2. Put the stewpan on the fire and mill it with a whisk 
till it comes to a thick froth. 

N. B. Be careful that the sauce does not boil, or it will curdle, 

3. Pour the sauce round the pudding. 



LESSON ELEVENTH, 
CAKEOT PUDDING. 

Ingredients* Three or four carrots. Three ounces of bread-crumbs. Two 
ounces of butter. Half a gill of cream. Two eggs. Half a gill of 
sherry. One ounce of powdered sugar. One tablespoonful of orange- 
flower water. Puff-paste. 

Time required, about three-quarters of an hour. 

To make a Carrot Pudding : 

1. Take three or four carrots (according to their size), 
wash them, and scrape them clean with a knife. 

2. Take a grater and grate all the red part of the 
carrots into a basin. There should be about a quarter of 
a pound. 



PUDDINGS. 211 

3. Stand a wire sieve over a plate. 

4. Take some crumb of bread and rub it through the 
sieve. There should be about three ounces of bread- 
crumbs. 

5. Put the bread-crumbs into the basin with the car- 
rot ; also add one ounce of powdered sugar. 

6. Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, and put it 
on the fire to melt. 

7. When the butter is melted, take the stewpan off 
the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on the table. 

8. Then stir into it half a gill of sherry, half a gill of 
cream, and a tdblespoonful of orange-flour water. 

9. Add the yolks of two eggs (put the whites on a plate). 

10. Whip the whites of the two eggs to a stiff froth 
with a knife, and then stir them lightly into the stewpan, 
mixing all the ingredients together. 

11. Then pour the contents of the stewpan into th'e 
basin with the carrot and bread-crumbs, and mix them 
well together. 

12. Take a pie-dish (about one pint) and line the edge 
of it with puff-paste (see " Pastry," Lesson First). 

13. Pour the pudding into the pie-dish, and put it into 
the oven (the heat should be 240) to bake for half an 
hour / it is then ready for serving. 

LESSON TWELFTH. 
ALEXANDRA PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Ten eggs. Two ounces of powdered sugar. One gill of 

milk. Half a pint of good cream. A teaspoonf ul of essence of vanilla. 
Time required, about one hour and twenty minutes, 

To make an Alexandra Pudding : 

1. Put a saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil. 



212 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

2. Put the yolks of ten eggs into a basin. (The whites 
of five of the eggs should be put in another basin ; put 
the others aside.) 

3. Stir into the yolks of the eggs two ounces of pow- 
dered sugar. 

4. Add one gill of milk and half a pint of good cream. 

5. Whip the whites of the five eggs slightly with a 
whisk or knife. 

6. Take a plain tin mould (about one pint) and butter 
it inside ; cover the bottom with three rounds of buttered 
paper. 

7. Add the whipped whites of the eggs and a teaspoon- 
ful of essence of vanilla to the mixture in the basin, and 
stir all lightly together. 

8. Pour the mixture through a strainer into the mould, 
and tie over it a piece of stiff paper with a string. 

9. When the water in the saucepan boils, stand in the 
mould. (The water should reach only half-way up the 
mould, or it will boil over and spoil the pudding.) 

10. Let it simmer gently until the pudding is quite 
firm. (It will take about one hour and a quarter.) 

N. B. It must on no account boil fast. 

11. After that time, take the pudding out of the sauce- 
pan and stand it in ice. 

12. For serving, take off the buttered paper and turn 
the pudding carefully out on to a dish, and ornament it 
with red currant jelly according to taste. 



PUDDINGS. 213 

LESSON THIRTEENTH. 
BLANC-MANGE. 

Ingredients* Four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch. One quart of milk. 
Three ounces of loaf-sugar. One inch of the stick of cinnamon, or 
lemon-peel. 

Time required to make, about a quarter of an hour, and about three-quarters 
of an hour to get cold. 

To make ^Blanc-Mange : 

1. Put one quart of milk into a saucepan, with three 
ounces of loaf-sugar and one inch of stick of cinnamon, or 
the peel of a quarter of a lemon, for flavoring. 

2. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil. 

3. Put four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch into a basin, 
and mix it smoothly with a tablespoonful of cold milk. 

4. When the milk in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
stir in the corn-starch quickly, and let it boil for two min- 
utes, stirring continually. 

N. B. Be careful not to let it get lumpy. 

5. Take a quart basin, or a mould, and rinse it out in 
cold water. 

6. Now take the piece of cinnamon or lemon-peel oufe 
of the corn-starch, and pour the corn-starch into the basin, 
and put aside to cool. 

7. When it is quite cold, turn it out of the basin on to 
a dish, and it is ready for serving. 



214 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 



LESSON FOURTEENTH. 
BOILED BATTER PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Half a pound of flour. Salt. Two eggs. One pint of milk. 
Time required, about two hours and fifteen minutes. 

To make a Boiled Batter Pudding : 

1. Put a saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil. 

2. Put half a pound of flour into a basin, and mix 
half a salt-spoonful of salt with it. 

3. Break two eggs into the flour, and beat them well 
together. 

4. Now add, by degrees, one pint of milk, stirring 
smoothly all the time, until the batter is well mixed. 

5. Let the batter stand for one hour. 

6. Take a pudding-basin and grease it inside with 
butter. 

7. Stir the batter, and then pour it into the basin. 

8. Dip a pudding-cloth in boiling water, wring it out, 
and flour it well. 

9. Place the cloth over the batter, and tie it on se- 
curely with a piece of string, just below the rim of the 
basin. Pin or tie the four corners of the cloth over the 
top. 

10. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
put in the pudding, and let it boil for one hour. 

11. For serving, take the basin out of the saucepan, 
take off the cloth, and turn the pudding carefully out on 
a hot dish. 



PUDDINGS. 215 

LESSON FIFTEENTH. 
COEN-STAKCH PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Two dessertspoonfuls of corn-starch. Half a pint of milk. 
Six lumps of sugar. One egg. 

Time required, about an hour. 

To make a Corn-Starch Pudding (in a cup, for in- 
fants or invalids) : 

1. Put a saucepan half full of warm water on the fire 
to boil. 

2. Put two dessertspoonfuls of corn-starch into a sauce- 
pan. 

3. Pour in, by degrees, half a pint of milk, mixing it 
very smoothly. 

N. B. Be careful that it does not get lumpy. 

4. Now add to it six lumps of sugar ^ put the saucepan 
on the fire, and stir smoothly until it boils ; it will take 
about ten minutes. 

5. Then move the saucepan to the side of the fire. 

6. Break one egg into the saucepan, and beat it up 
until it is all well mixed. 

7. Take a cup (just large enough to hold the pudding) 
and grease it inside with a piece of butter. 

8. Pour the mixture out of the saucepan into the cup. 

9. Take a small cloth, wring it out in boiling water, 
flour it well, and tie it over the top of the cup with a 
piece of string. 

N. B. Tie the four corners of the cloth over the top of the cup. 

10. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
put in the cup, and let it boil for twenty-five minutes. 



216 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

11. For serving, take the cloth off the cup, and the 
pudding may be turned out or not, according to taste. 



LESSON SIXTEENTH. 
BATTEK PUDDING. 

Ingredients. One egg. One tablespoonful of flour. One teacupful of 

milk. Salt. 
Time required, about thirty-five minutes to make, and thirty minutes to stand. 

To make Batter Pudding (in a cup, for infants or 
invalids) : 

1. Put a saucepan half full of warm water on the fire 
to boil. 

2. Put a tablespoonful of flour into a basin, with &few 
grains of salt. 

3. Break one egg into the basin, and mix it well into 
the flour. 

4. Now add, by degrees, a teacupful of milk, stirring 
vigorously with a wooden spoon. 

5. Let the batter stand for half an hour. 

6. After that time, take a cup (just large enough to 
hold the latter), and grease it well inside with a piece of 
butter. 

7. Stir the batter, and then pour it into the cup. 

8. Take a small cloth, wring it out in boiling water, 
flour it well, and tie it over the top of the cup with a 
piece of string. 

N. B. Tie the four corners of the cloth together over the top of 
the cup. 

9. "When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
put in the cup, and let it boil for half an hour. 

10. For serving, take the cloth off the cup, and the 
pudding may be turned out or not, according to taste. 



PUDDINGS. 217 

LESSON SEVENTEENTH. 
CORN-STARCH PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch. One quart of milk. 

Three tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar. Two eggs. One inch of the 

stick of cinnamon, or a bay-leaf. Grated nutmeg. 
Time required, about half an hour. 

To make a Corn-Starch Pudding : 

1. Put four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch into a basin, 
and mix it quite smooth with a tablespoonful of cold milk. 

2. Put the remainder of the quart of milk into a 
saucepan, with three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar 
and one inch of cinnamon or a bay-leaf. 

3. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil. 

4. When the milk boils, pour it on the mixture, stir- 
ring it smoothly all the time. 

5. Break two eggs into the corn-starch^ and beat it 
lightly. 

6. Grease a quart pie-dish with butter. 

7. Pour the mixture into the pie-dish, and grate half 
a teaspoonful of nutmeg over the top. 

8. Put the dish into the oven (the heat should be 220) 
to bake half an hour. 

9. It will then be ready for serving. 



IESSON EIGHTEENTH. 
RICE PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Half a pound of rice. One quart of milk. Two eggs. Two 

ounces of moist sugar. Two ounces of suet. Grated nutmeg. 
Time required, from forty minutes to an hour. 

To make a Rice Pudding: 

1. "Wash half a pound of rice in two or three waters, 



218 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

and then put it into a saucepan of cold water, and put it 
on the fire till it boils and swells. 

2. Break two eggs into a basin. 

3. Add to them two ounces of moist sugar and one 
quart of milk, and stir them together. 

4. Put two ounces of suet on a board, cut away all the 
skin, and shred it as fine as possible. 

5. Take a quart dish and grease it inside with clarified 
dripping or butter. 

6. Drain off the rice on a colander as dry as possible, 
and lay it in the greased dish. 

7. Pour the mixture of milk and eggs over the rice, 
and sprinkle the shredded suet over the top. 

8. Take a grater and grate half a teaspoonful of nut- 
meg over the top. 

9. Put the dish into an oven (the heat should be 220) 
to bake for from forty minutes to an hour. 

10. After that time, it is ready for serving. 



LESSON NINETEENTH. 
CURATE'S PUDDING. 

Ingredients. One pound of potatoes. Three eggs. One pint of milk. 
Sugar. 

Time required, about one hour. 

To make a Curates (or Sweet Potato) Pudding : 

1. Wash one pound of potatoes and boil them (see 
"Vegetables," Lesson First). 

N. B. Any remains of cold boiled potatoes may be used instead of 
fresh ones. 

2. Rub these boiled potatoes through a colander into 
a basin with a wooden spoon. 



PUDDINGS. 219 

3. Break three eggs into another basin, and stir into 
them one pint of milk. 

4. Stir the milk and eggs smoothly into the potatoes, 
and add sugar to taste. 

5. Grease a quart pie-dish, and pour the mixture into it. 

6. Put it in the oven (the heat should be 220) and 
bake half an hour ; it will then be ready for serving. 



LESSON TWENTIETH. 
BREAD PUDDING. 

Ingredients. One pound of scraps of bread. One quart of milk. Two 
eggs. Two tablespoonfuls of moist sugar. Four ounces of raisins or 
currants. 

Time required, three-quarters of an hour. 

To make a Bread Pudding : 

1. Put one pound of scraps of bread into a basin with 
plenty of cold water, to soak. 

N. B. Any scraps of bread, either crumb or crust, however stale, so 
long as they are not mouldy or burnt, can be used for this pudding. 

2. Put one quart of milk into a saucepan, and put it 
on the fire to boil. 

3. Put into the milk a piece of butter the size of a 
nut, to prevent it from burning. 

4. Take the bread out of the basin and squeeze out all 
the water. 

5. Empty the water out of the basin and put back the 
bread. 

6. When the milk boils, pour it over the bread, and 
let the bread soak until it is soft. 

7. Break two eggs into a small basin, add to them two 
tablespoonfuls of moist sugar ', and beat them lightly to- 
gether. 



220 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

8. Take four ounces of large raisins and stone them ; 
or, if currants are preferred, wash them, dry them in a 
cloth, and pick them over, to see that there are no stones 
with them. 

9. Now beat the bread up with a fork as smooth as 
possible. 

10. Put in the raisins or currants and the eggs and 
sugar, and mix them all well together. 

11. Take a pie-dish, or tin, holding two pints and a 
half, grease it well inside, and pour in the mixture. 

12. Put it in the oven (the heat should be 220) to bake 
for half an hour ; it will then be ready for serving. 

LESSON TWENTY-PIRST. 
TREACLE PUDDING. 

Ingredients. One pound of flour. Quarter of a pound of suet. One tea- 
spoonful of baking-powder. Salt. One teaspoonful of ground ginger. 
Quarter of a pound of treacle. Quarter of a pint of milk. One egg. 

Time required, two and a half hours. 

To make a Treacle Pudding : 

1. Put a large saucepan of warm water on the fire to 
boil. 

2. Take a quarter of a pound of suet, put it on a board, 
cut away the skin, and chop up the suet as fine as possible. 

3. Put one pound of flour into a basin, w r ith a little 
salt and one teaspoonful of baking-powder. 

4. Add the chopped suet and one teaspoonful of 
ground ginger, and mix all well together with a spoon. 

5. Put a quarter of a pound of treacle into a basin, 
with a quarter of a pint of milk and one egg, and mix 
them together. 

N. B. If liked, rather more treacle can be added. 



PUDDINGS. 221 

6. Stir this into the mixture in the basin, and add 
more milk, if required to make the pudding moist. 

N. B. When the pudding is mixed, it should be rather stiff. 

7. Take a quart basin, grease it well inside, and pour 
the mixture into it. 

N. B. Be careful that the basin is full ; for, if not quite full, the water 
will get into it and spoil the pudding. 

8. Sprinkle some flour over the top of the pudding, 
put a cloth over it and tie it tightly down with a piece of 
string, just below the rim of the basin, and tie or pin the 
corners of the cloth together. 

9. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
put in the pudding, and let it boil for two hours. 

10, For serving, take the pudding out of the saucepan, 
take off the cloth, place a hot dish over the pudding, and 
turn it carefully out of the basin. 

LESSON TWENTY-SECOND. 
PLUM PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Five ounces of bread-crumbs. Seven ounces of flour. One- 
quarter of a pound of suet. Quarter of a pound of raisins. Quarter of 
a pound of currants. Two ounces of moist sugar. Two ounces of can- 
died peel. One teaspoonful of baking-powder. Two eggs. One gill of milk. 

Time required, two and a half hours. 

To make a Plum Pudding : 

1. Put a large saucepan of warm water on the fire to 
boil. 

2. Stand a grater on a piece of paper, and grate somo 
bread-crumbs. There should Toejive ounces. 

3. Take a quarter of a pound of suet and put it on a 
board. 



222 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

4. Take a knife, cut away all the skin, and chop up 
the suet as tine as possible. 

5. Sprinkle flour over the suet, to prevent it sticking 
to the board or knife. 

6. Take a quarter of a pound of currants, wash them 
well in cold water, and rub them dry in a cloth. 

7. Take up the currants in handfuls and drop them a 
few at a time on to a plate, so as to find out if there are 
any stones mixed with them. 

8. Take a quarter of a pound of large raisins and 
stone them. 

9. Take two ounces of mixed candied peel i. e., cit- 
ron, lemon, and orange and cut them up into small pieces. 

N. B. If disliked, the candied peel may be omitted. 

10. Put seven ounces of flour into a basin, and add to 
it the chopped suet, quarter of a salt-spoonful of salt, and 
a teaspoonful of baking-powder. 

11. Hub the suet well into the flour with your hand. 

N. B. Be careful not to leave any lumps, 

12. Now add the bread-crumbs, the currants and rai- 
sins, two ounces of moist sugar, the pieces of candied 
peel, and mix all well with a wooden spoon. 

N. B. If preferred, treacle may be used instead of sugar. 

13. Break two eggs into a basin, add to them one gill of 
milk, and beat them up. 

14. Now stir the milk and eggs into the pudding, and 
mix all well together. 

15. Take a cloth, wring it out of hot water, flour it, and 
lay it over a quart basin. 

N. B. Be careful that the cloth is strong, and that there are no holes 
in it. 



PUDDINGS. 223 

16. Turn the mixture from the basin into the centre of 
the floured cloth. 

17. Hold up the four corners of the cloth, and tie up 
the pudding tightly with a piece of string. 

18. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
put in the pudding, and let it boil for two hours. 

N. B. The lid should be on the saucepan. 

19. For serving, take the pudding out of the cloth and 
turn it on to a hot dish. 



LESSON TWENTY-THIRD. 
TAPIOCA AND APPLES. 

Ingredients* Two tablespoonfuls of tapioca. Six apples. Four cloves, 
and the peel of half a lemon. Two tablespoonfuls of sugar. 

Time required (after the tapioca has soaked twelve hours), about three-quarters 
of an hour. 

To make a Stew of Tapioca and Apples : 

1. Put two tablespoonfuls of tapioca into a basin with 
one pint of water, and let it soak twelve hours. 

N. B. This should be done over night. 

2. Peel, quarter, and core six apples. 

3. Put in four cloves for flavoring. 

4. Wipe a lemon with a cloth, and peel half of it very 
thin with a sharp knife. 

N. B. Be careful not to take any of the white, as it is very bitter. 

5. Put the soaked tapioca into a large saucepan, with the 
lemon-peel and two tablespoonfuls of pounded white sugar. 

6. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir it well until 
it boils. 

N. B. Be careful not to let any stick to the bottom. 
11 



224 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

7. Let it boil ten minutes, until the tapioca has be- 
come clear. 

8. After that, put the apples into the saucepan, arrang- 
ing them at the bottom so that they are covered with the 
tapioca. 

9. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let 
the apples stew gently for from fifteen to thirty minutes, 
according to their size. 

10. You must not let them boil, or they will break. 

11. When they are stewed quite tender, take them out 
of the saucepan and put them on a dish. 

12. Pour the tapioca over the apples. 

N. B. If liked, the tapioca sauce can be colored by stirring in about 
half a teaspoonful of cochineal. 



LESSON TWENTY-FOURTH. 
INVALID PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Three tablespoonfuls of chopped suet. Three tablespoon- 
fuls of bread-crumbs. Three tablespoonfuls of flour. Three tablespoon- 
fuls of moist sugar. Three tablespoonfuls of milk. Two eggs. 

Time required, about one hour and three-quarters. 

To make an Invalid Pudding : 

1. Take about a quarter of a pound of mutton-suet, 
put it upon a board, and chop it up as fine as possible. 

2. When it is chopped, there should be about three 
tablespoonfuls. 

N. B. Mutton-suet is much lighter of digestion than beef-suet. 

3. Put a saucepan half full of warm water on the fire 
to boil. 

4. Take a piece of bread and a grater, and grate some 



PUDDINGS. 225 

bread-crumbs on to a piece of paper. There should be 
about three tdblespoonfuls of bread-crumbs. 

5. Put the bread-crumbs and the chopped suet into a 
basin, with three tablespoonfuls of flour and three table- 
spoonfuls of moist sugar. 

6. Mix all these well together. 

7. Now break in two eggs, and add three tdblespoonfuls 
of milk, and stir all well together with a spoon. 

8. Take a half-pint pudding-basin and grease it well 
inside. 

9. Pour the mixture into the basin. 

10. Take a cloth, dip it in hot water, and flour it. 

11. Put this cloth over the top of the basin, and tie it 
on with a piece of string, just under the rim of the basin. 

12. Tie the four corners of the cloth together loosely 
over the top of the basin. 

13. Put this basin into the saucepan of boiling water ; 
but you must be very careful that the water only reaches 
half-way up the basin, or it will boil over and get into 
the pudding. 

14. Let the pudding steam for one hour and a half. 

N. B. Keep a kettle of water boiling, to add to the water in the 
saucepan as it boils away. 

15. After that time, take the basin out of the saucepan, 
take off the cloth, and carefully turn the pudding out on 
to a warm dish. 



226 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON TWENTY-FIFTH. 
SEMOLINA PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Half a pint of milk. One tablespoonful of crushed semo- 
lina. One egg. One dessertspoonful of moist sugar. Butter and nutmeg. 

Time required, about twenty-jive minutes. 

To make a Semolina Pudding : 

1. Put half a pint of milk and one tablespoonful of 
semolina into a saucepan. 

2. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir occasionally 
until it boils and swells ; then set it by the side of the fire. 

3. Break one egg into a basin and add to it one des- 
sertspoonful of moist sugar, and beat them lightly together. 

4. Take a three-quarters-of-a-pint pie-dish and grease 
it inside with a piece of butter. 

5. When the semolina is sufficiently cooled, stir in 
lightly the sweetened egg. 

6. Pour this mixture into the pie-dish. 

7. Take a grater and a nutmeg and grate a quarter of 
a teaspoonful over the mixture. 

8. Put the dish into the oven (the heat should be 220) 
to bake for a quarter of an hour. 

N. B. Puddings can be made in the same way with sago, tapioca, or 
rice. 

LESSON TWENTY-SIXTH. 
BATTER AND FRUIT. 

Ingredients. Quarter of a pound of flour. Salt. Half a pint of milk. 
Two eggs. Quarter of a pound of fruit. Half an ounce of butter. Sugar. 

Time required, about forty minutes. 

To make a Batter Pudding with fruit in it : 
1. Put a quarter of a pound of flour in a basin. 



PUDDINGS. 227 

2. Add a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt. 

3. Stir in gradually half a pint of milk. 

4. When it has become sufficiently liquid, you should 
beat it with a spoon, instead of stirring it, as that will 
make it lighter. 

5. Break an egg into a cup, and then add it to the 
batter, beating it up lightly all the time, until it is thor- 
oughly mixed. 

6. Then break a second egg into the cup, and add it to 
the batter, mixing it thoroughly as before. 

N. B. Eggs should always be broken separately into a cup, to see if 
they are good, before cooking. 

N. B. The more the batter is beaten the lighter it becomes. 

7. Take a pint-and-a-half pie-dish and grease it well 
inside with butter. 

8. Pour the batter into the pie-dish. 

9. Take a quarter of a pound of damsons (or any other 
fruit) and wipe them with a cloth, to be sure that they 
are quite clean. 

10. Sprinkle the fruit into the batter, and put two or 
three bits of butter on the top, to prevent its being dry. 

11. Put the pie-dish into the oven (the heat should be 
220) to bake for half an hour. 

12. After that time, take the pie-dish out of the oven 
and sprinkle some sugar over the top. 

N. B. Sugar should, of course, be eaten with the batter pudding. 

N. B. If sugar were added to the batter before it was baked, it would 
make it heavy. 



228 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON TWENTY-SEVENTH. 
COLD CABINET PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Six sponge finger-biscuits. Two ounces of ratafias. Half a 
pint of milk. Half an ounce of best gelatine. The yolks of four eggs. 
Two ounces of dried cherries. Two or three pieces of angelica. Half a 
gill of cream. One teaspoonful of essence of vanilla. One tablespoon- 
f ul of powdered sugar. 

Time required, about half an hour. 

To make a Cold Cabinet Pudding : 

1. Take a pint mould and ornament the bottom of it 
(according to taste) with the dried cherries and pieces of 
angelica. 

2. Split the sponge-biscuits in half and line the inside 
of the tin with them and the ratafias in the mould. 

N. B. Place the biscuits only round the sides of the tin (not over the 
bottom), arranging them alternately back and front next the tin. 

3. Break four eggs, put the yolks in a basin (the 
whites put aside, as they are not required for present use), 
and beat them well witli a wooden spoon. 

4. Stir half a pint of milk into the eggs, and pour the 
mixture into a jug. 

5. Take a saucepan, fill it half full of hot water, and 
put it on the fire to boil ; when the water boils, remove 
the saucepan to the side of the fire. 

6. Stand the jug in the saucepan, and stir the custard 
very smoothly until it thickens to the consistence of cream ; 
but it must not boil, or it will curdle. 

7. Put half an ounce of gelatine in a small stewpan or 
gallipot, with a tablespoonful of water, and stand it near 
the fire to melt. 



PUDDINGS. 229 

8. "When the custard is sufficiently thick, take the jug 
out of the saucepan and stand it aside to cool. 

N. B. Place a piece of paper over the mouth of the jug, to prevent 
the dust getting in. 

9. Stir the gelatine until it is quite melted. 

10. Pour the melted gelatine through a strainer into 
the custard. 

11. Also add half a gill of cream, a teaspoonful of es- 
sence of vanilla, and a tablespoonful of powdered sugar. 

12. Pour it all on the cakes in the mould. 

13. Stand the mould in a cold place to set ; in summer- 
time it should be placed on ice. 

14. When the pudding is quite cold and set, turn it out 
carefully on to a dish, and it is ready for serving. 



LESSON TWENTY-EIGHTH. 
STJET PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Half a pound of suet. One pound of flour. One teaspoon- 
ful of baking-powder. 

Time required, about one hour and three-quarters. 

To make a Suet Pudding : 

1. Put a saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil. 

2. Take half a pound of suet, put it on a board, cut 
away all the skin, and chop the suet up as fine as possible 
with a sharp knife. 

3. Put one pound of flour into a basin with one tea- 
spoonful of baking-powder. 

4. Add the chopped suet, and rub it well into the flour 
with your hands. 

N. B. Be careful not to have any lumps. 



230 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

5. Now add enough cold water to mix it into a stiff 
paste. 

6. Take a strong pudding-cloth, wring it out in boiling 
water, and sprinkle flour over it. 

7. Turn the paste out on to the cloth, hold up the 
ends of the cloth, and tie it tightly round the pudding 
with a piece of string, leaving room for the pudding to 
swell. 

8. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
put in the pudding, and let it boil gently for one hour 
and a half. 

N. B. Keep a kettle of boiling water, and fill up the saucepan as the 
water in it boils away. 

9. For serving, take the pudding out of the saucepan, 
take off the cloth, and turn it on to a hot dish. 

N. B. This pudding can be eaten with meat, or with sugar, jam, or 
treacle. 



LESSON TWENTY-NINTH. 
YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

Ingredients. Eight ounces of flour. One pint of milk. Half a teaspoon- 
ful of baking-powder. Salt. Two eggs. 

Time required, one hour. 

To make a Yorkshire Pudding : 

1. Put eight ounces of flour into a basin, and mix into 
it half a teaspoonful of laking-powder and half a salt- 
spoonful of salt. 

2. Break two eggs into the flour, and stir it well. 

3. Now add, by degrees, a pint of milk, beating all 
the time with a wooden spoon, to make the batter as 
smooth and light as possible. 



PUDDINGS. 231 

4. Place a pint pudding-tin under the meat that is 
roasting in front of the fire, to catch some dripping to 
grease the tin. 

5. Then pour the batter into the tin, and let it cook 
under the meat half an hour, or bake it twenty minutes 
in the oven. 

6. Turn the tin so that the pudding will not get burned. 

N. B. It is better to make batter some time before it is wanted, so 
that it may rise. 

N.B. A plainer and more substantial Yorkshire pudding can be 
made, in the same way as above, with six ounces of flour, one 
egg, one pint of milk, and one tablespoonful of chopped suet, 
sprinkled over the batter when it is poured into the tin. 

7. When the pudding is done, turn it out of the tin on 
to a hot dish, and it is ready for serving with roast meat. 



CHAPTER XV. 
DUMPLINGS. 



LESSON PIRST. 
HARD DUMPLINGS. 

Ingredients* Half a pound of flour. Salt. 
Time required, about twenty-Jive minutes. 

- To make Hard Dumplings : 

1. Put a saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil. 

2. Put half a pound of flour into a basin, and mix in 
half a salt-spoonful of salt. 

3. Add cold water enough to make it into a firm 
dough. 

4. Flour your hands and divide the dough into pieces 
about the size of an egg, and roll each piece into a smooth 
ball, without a crack in it. 

5. "When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
drop in the dumplings, and let them boil twenty minutes. 

N. B. They are best boiled with meat either salt beef or pork. 

6. Then take them out of the saucepan, put them on a 
hot dish, and they are ready for serving. 



DUMPLINGS. 233 



LESSON SECOND. 
NORFOLK DUMPLINGS. 

Ingredients. One pound of patent flour. Water. 
Time required, about half an hour. 

To make Norfolk Dumplings : 

1. Put a saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil. 

2. Put one pound of patent flour into a basin. 

3. Add to it enough cold water to make it into a 
smooth dough (it must not be too stiff). 

4. Form this dough into round balls about the size of 
a large egg. 

N. B. This quantity will make about ten dumplings. 

5. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, 
put in the dumplings, and let them boil for twenty min- 
utes. 

6. After that time, take them out of the saucepan, and 
they are then ready for serving. 



CHAPTER XVI. 
JELLIES. 

LESSON FIRST. 
WINE JELLY. 

Ingredients. Two calves' feet. Two lemons. Two eggs. Two ounces 
of loaf-sugar. One inch of the stick of cinnamon. Four cloves. One 
wineglass of sherry. Half a wineglass of brandy. 

Time required (the jelly-stock should be made the day before required for use) 
to finish making it, about an how. 

To make about one quart of Wine Jelly from calves* 
feet: 

1. Take two calves' feet and put them on a board. 

2. Chop each foot in four pieces with a chopper. 

3. Put these pieces in a basin of clean cold water and 
wash them well. 

4. Take them out of the basin and put them in a stew- 
pan with sufficient cold water to cover them. 

N. B. This is to blanch them. 

5. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil. 

6. When the water boils, take the stewpan off and 
stand it on a piece of paper on the table. 

7. Take the pieces of the feet out of the stewpan with 



JELLIES. 235 

a fork, and put them in a basin of cold water and wash 
them well. 

8. Empty the water out of the stewpan. 

9. Wash the stewpan well. 

10. Take the pieces of the feet out of the basin, and put 
them in the stewpan -with five pints of cold water. 

N. B. This stock will be reduced to about one pint and a half when 
it is sufficiently boiled. 

11. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil. 

12. "Watch it, and skim it often with a skimming-spoon. 

13. Let it boil very gently for five hours. 

14. After that time strain off the liquor through a hair 
sieve into a basin. 

15. Put this basin in a cool place for some hours, until 
the stock is perfectly cold and is in a jelly. 

16. Now take this basin of jelly-stock and skim off all 
the fat carefully with a spoon. 

17. Take a clean cloth and put it in hot water. 

18. Take this damp cloth and dab it over the jelly-stock, 
BO as to remove every particle of grease. 

19. Take a clean dry cloth and rub lightly over the 
jelly-stock, to dry it. 

20. Take two lemons, wipe them clean in a cloth, and 
peel them very thinly with a sharp knife. 

N. B. Be careful, in peeling the lemons, not to cut any of the white 
skin, as it would make the jelly bitter. 

21. Put the lemon-peel into a stewpan. 

22. Squeeze the juice of the two lemons, through a 
strainer, into the stewpan. 

23. Take two eggs, and put the yolks in one basin and 
the whites in another. 

24. Whip the whites of the eggs slightly, but not very stiff. 



236 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

25. Put the whipped white of the egg into the stewpan, 
and the crushed egg-shell. " 

26. Put in also two ounces of loaf sugar, one inch of the 
stick of cinnamon, and four cloves. 

27. Whip all these together with a whisk. 

28. Now add the jelly-stock. 

29. Put the stewpan on the fire, and whisk well till it 
boils. 

30. Now put the ]id on the stewpan and stand it by the 
side of the fire for twenty minutes, to form a crust. 

31. Place the jelly-bag stand in front of the fire and 
hang the jelly-bag in it (you must put a basin on the stand 
underneath the jelly-bag). 

N. B. Be sure that the jelly-bag is quite clean. 

32. Take a jug of lotting water and pour it through the 
jelly-bag. 

33. Do this fowr or Jive times, always using boiling 
water until the bag is quite warm. 

34. Look at the jelly in the stewpan, and when the 
crust is formed it is ready to be strained. 

N. B. Be sure that there is no water left in the bag before passing 
the jelly through ; and the basin in the stand should be quite dry. 

N. B. The pouring of the jelly into the bag forces the water (the few 
drops that remain) out first into the basin ; these first few drops 
should be thrown away, and a clean basin put in its place imme- 
diately. 

35. Now take the stewpan off the fire and pour the jelly 
carefully into the bag, to pass into the basin. 

36. Repeat this two or three times, until the jelly runs 
through quite clear. 

N. B. Be careful, in pouring the jelly through the bag, that you do 
not disturb the sediment at the bottom of the bag, which will 
serve as a filter. 



JELLIES. 237 

37. Add a wineglassful of sherry and half a wineglassful 
of brandy r , or any other wine or liqueur, according to taste. 

38. Take a quart mould, scald it with boiling water, and 
then rinse it in cold water. 

39. Place the mould in ice. 

N. B. Be careful that the mould stands quite straight and firm. 

40. Pour in enough of the jelly just to cover the bot- 
tom of the mould. 

41. When this jelly has set slightly, garnish the mould 
with grapes, strawberries, etc., according to taste. 

42. Then pour the remainder of the jelly into the mould, 
and let it stand in the ice until it is firmly set. 

43. "When the jelly is required for use, dip the mould 
into a basin of hot water. 

44. Shake the mould to loosen the jelly, place a dish 
over the top of the mould, and turn the jelly carefully out, 
so as not to break it. 



IESSON SECOND. 
ASPIC JELLY. 

Ingredients. Two calves' feet. Two pounds of knuckle of veal. Salt. 
Thirty pepper-corns. Two blades of mace. One clove of garlic. Two 
shallots. One sprig of thyme. Two or three sprigs of parsley. One 
onion, stuck with four cloves. One leek. Half a head of celery. Two 
carrots. One turnip. One sprig of tarragon. One sprig of chervil. 
Two bay-leaves. The rind of one lemon. The juice of three lemons. 
The whites of two eggs. One pound of lean veal. One gill of chablis 
or sherry. Two tablespoonfuls of French vinegar. 

Time required (the jelly-stock should be made the day before) to finish making 
it, if not decorated, about an hour. 

To make one quart of savory Aspic Jelly : 

1. Take two calves' feet and put them on a board. 



238 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

2. Chop the feet in eight pieces with a chopper. 

3. Put these pieces in a basin of clean cold water and 
wash them well. 

4. Take them out of the basin, and put them in a stew- 
pan with enough cold water to cover them. 

5. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil. 

N. B. This is to blanch them. 

6. When the water boils, take the stewpan off and 
stand it on a piece of paper on the table. 

7. Take the pieces of feet out of the stewpan with a 
fork, put them in a basin of cold water, and wash them 
well. 

8. Empty the water out of the stewpan. 

9. Wash the stewpan well. 

10. Take the pieces of feet out of the basin and put 
them back into the stewpan. 

11. Take two pounds of knuckle of veal and put it on a 
6oard. 

12. Take a sharp knife and cut the meat from the bone. 

13. Put the meat and the bone into the stewpan with 
the feet. 

14. Pour in Jive pints of water, put the stewpan on the 
fire, and just bring it to the boil. 

15. Watch it, and skim it with a spoon. 

16. Now add half a teaspoonful of salt, thirty pepper- 
corns, two blades of mace, one clove of garlic, two shal- 
lots, one sprig of thyme, and two or three sprigs of 
parsley. 

17. Take an onion, peel it, and stick four cloves 
in it. 

18. Take one leek and half a head of celery, and wash 
them in cold water. 



JELLIES. 239 

19. Wash two carrots and scrape them clean. 

20. Wash a turnip and peel it. 

21. Put all these vegetables into the stewpan. 

22. Add one sprig of tarragon, one sprig of chervil, and 
two bay-leaves. 

23. Let all these boil gently for five hours. 

24. Then strain off the liquor, through a hair sieve, into 
a basin. 

25. Put this basin in a cool place for some hours, until 
the stock is perfectly cold and in a jelly. 

26. Now take the basin of jelly and skim off all the fat 
carefully with a spoon. 

27. Take a clean cloth and put it in hot water. 

28. Take this damp cloth and dab it over the jelly-stock, 
so as to remove every particle of grease. 

29. Take a clean dry cloth and rub lightly over the 
jelly-stock, to dry it. 

30. Take one lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and peel 
it very thinly with a sharp knife. 

N. B. Be careful, in peeling the lemon, not to cut any of the pith, as 
it would make the jelly bitter. 

31. Put the lemon-peel into a stewpan. 

32. Squeeze the juice of three lemons, through a strainer, 
into the stewpan. 

33. Whip the whites of two eggs slightly, but not very 
stiff. 

34. Put the whipped whites of the eggs into the stew- 
pan, also the egg-shells. 

35. Take one pound of lean veal, put it on a board, and 
chop it up fine. 

36. Put this chopped veal in the stewpan. 

37. Pour in one gill of chdblis or sherry, and two table- 
spoonfuls of French vinegar. 



24:0 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

38. Add salt and pepper to taste, and whip all together 
with a whisk. 

39. Put in the jelly-stock. 

40. Put the stewpan on the fire, and whisk well until 
it boils. 

41. Now take a large spoon and skim it carefully, if 
necessary. 

42. Put the stewpan by the side of the fire, and let it 
stand for half an hour to form a crust. 

43. Take a clean soup-cloth, or a jelly-bag, and fix it on 
the stand. 

44. Take a large basin and place it below the cloth. 

45. Take the stewpan off the fire and pour the contents 
into the cloth, and let it all pass into the basin. 

N. B. The chopped veal acts as a filter to the jelly. 

46. After the jelly has all passed through, remove the 
basin, and put a clean one in its place. 

47. Take a soup-ladle and pour a ladleful of the jelly at 
a time over the meat in the cloth, and let it pass for the 
second time very slowly into the basin. 

N. B. Be careful not to disturb the deposit of chopped veal which 
settles at the bottom of the cloth. 

48. If a border-mould of aspic jelly is required, scald the 
mould with boiling water, and then rinse it in cold water. 

N. B. If the aspic jelly is only required for garnishing cold meats, 
stand the basin of jelly on ice, or in a cool place, until it is firmly 
set ; then cut the jelly into fancy shapes, or chop it up finely with 
a knife. 

49. Place the mould in ice. 

N. B. Be careful that it stands straight and firm. 

50. Pour in enough of \kz jelly just to cover the bottom 
of the mould. 



JELLIES. 241 

51. When this jelly has slightly set, garnish the mould 
with fish or vegetables, etc., according to taste or to what 
it is to be served with. 

52. Then pour the remainder of the jelly into the 
mould, and let it stand in the ice until it is firmly set. 

53. When the jelly is required for use, dip the mould 
into a basin of hot water for about a second. 

54. Shake the mould to loosen the jelly, and place a 
dish over the top of the mould and turn the jelly carefully 
out, so as not to break it. 

N. B. The centre of the mould can be filled with a salad of mixed 
vegetables (see No. 13 in " Entries," Lesson Fifth). 



LESSON THIRD. 
ICELAND MOSS. 

Ingredients. One ounce of Iceland moss. One quart of milk or water. 
Two tablespoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar. 

Time required (after the Iceland moss has soaked all night\ for " Water Jelly," 
about one hour ; for "Milk Jelly" about two hours. 

To make Jelly with Iceland Moss : 

1. Wash one ounce of Iceland moss well in cold water. 

2. Then put it in a basin of cold water and let it soak 
all night. 

3. After that time take it out of the water and squeeze 
it dry in a cloth. 

4. Then put it in a saucepan, with one quart of cold 
water. 

5. Put the saucepan on the fire and let it boil for one 
hour you must stir it frequently. 

6. Then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and 
sweeten it with loaf sugar. 



24:2 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

7. It can be taken with either wine or milk, according 
to taste. 

For Milk Jelly : 

1. Boil the moss in the same quantity of milk, instead 
of water (after it has been soaked), as above, only for two 
hours instead of one hour. 

2. Then strain it into a basin, and sweeten with loaf 
sugar according to taste. 

3. When it is cold, turn the jelly out of the basin on 
to a dish, and it is ready for use. 



LESSON FOURTH. 

MILK JELLY FROM COW-HEEL, AND THE MEAT SERVED 
WITH ONION-SAUCE. 

Ingredients (for Milk Jelly). One cow-heel. One quart of milk. Two 
inches of the stick of cinnamon. Sugar. 

To make a Milk Jelly from Cow-Heel : 

1. Buy a dressed cow-heel from a tripe-shop. 

2. Put the cow-heel on a board and cut it up into small 
pieces. 

3. Put these pieces into an earthen jar or a saucepan, 
with one quart of milk and two inches of the stick of cin- 
namon. 

4. Put the lid on the top of the jar ; put a piece of 
paper over the lid, and tie it tightly down. 

5. Put the jar into a very slow oven, to stew for at 
least three hours. 

6. If there is no oven to the stove, stand the jar by 
the side of the fire to stew. 

N. B. It reduces less if stewed in the oven. 



JELLIES. 243 

7. "When the stew is finished, take the jar out of the 
oven, take off the lid, strain the milk into a basin, and 
sweeten it according to taste. 

8. Put the basin aside till the jelly is set. It may be 
eaten hot or cold, according to taste. 

FOR ONION-SAUCE. 

Ingredients. Three or four onions. Half a pint of milk. Half an ounce 
of flour. Half an ounce of butter. 

For serving the Cow-Heel with Onion-Sauce : 

1. Take three or four onions, peel them, and cut them 
in quarters. 

2. Put them into a saucepan with half a pint of milk. 

3. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil till the onions 
are quite tender ; it will take about one hour. 

4. After that time strain off the milk into a basin, put 
the onions on a board, and chop them up small. 

5. Put half an ounce of butter into the saucepan, and 
put it on the fire to melt. 

6. When the butter is melted, add half an ounce of 
flour, and mix them smoothly together with a wooden 
spoon. 

7. Pour the milk in gradually, stirring it till it boils 
and thickens. 

8. Then add the onions, season with pepper and salt 
according to taste, and move the saucepan to the side of 
the fire. 

9. Put the pieces of cow-heel into the sauce, and let 
them warm through. 

10. For serving, put the pieces of cow-heel on a hot 
dish, and pour over them the onion-sauce. 



LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

N. B. The meat from the 'cow-heel might be served as a curry. The 
curry should be made in the same way as described in " Cooked 
Meat," Lesson Fourth. 

N. B. The bones of the cow-heel should be put into the stock-pot. 



LESSON FIFTH. 
JELLY AND STEW FROM OX-FOOT. 

Ingredients (for Jelly). One ox-foot. Quarter of a pound of lump sugar. 
One egg. Two lemons. Spices. 

Ingredients (for Stew). One carrot. One turnip. One onion. Half an 
ounce of dripping. Half an ounce of butter. Flour and seasoning. 

To make a Jelly from Ox-Foot : 

1. Take a scalded ox-foot, put it in cold water, and 
wash it well. 

2. Take it out of water, dry it with a cloth, and put it 
on a board. 

3. Cut the foot with a sharp knife across the fast joint 
and down between the hoofs, and chop the long piece in 
half. 

4. Put these pieces into a saucepan, with enough cold 
water to cover them. 

5. Put the saucepan on the fire and just bring it to the 
boil. 

6. Then take the pieces out and wash them thoroughly 
in a basin of cold water. 

7. Empty the water out of the saucepan, and wash it 
out well. 

8. Put the pieces of foot back in the saucepan, cover- 
ing them well with cold water (about two quarts will be 
enough for a moderate-sized foot). 

9. Put the saucepan on the fire, and when it boils 



JELLIES. 24-5 ' 

move it to the side of the fire and let it stew gently for 
six hours. 

10. Watch it, and skim it carefully with a spoon from 
v time to time. 

11. After that time strain off the stock into a basin, and 
put it aside to cool. 

N. B. The foot should be put aside until required for use. 

12. When the stock is quite cold, take an iron spoon, 
dip it in hot water, and carefully skim off the fat. 

13. Take a clean cloth, dip it in hot water, and wipe 
over the top of the jelly, so as to remove every particle of 
fat. 

N.B. For "Porter Jelly," see below. 

14. Take two lemons, wipe them with a cloth to be sure 
that they are quite clean, and peel them very thinly with 
a sharp knife. 

N. B. Be careful, in peeling the lemons, not to cut any of the white 
skin, as it would make the jelly bitter. 

15. Put the peel of one lemon into the stewpan or sauce- 
pan. 

16. Cut the lemons in halves, and squeeze the juice of 
the two into the saucepan. 

N. B. Be careful to remove all the pips. 

17. Take one egg, put the yolk in one basin and the 
white in another. 

18. Whip up the white of the egg slightly. 

19. Put the whipped white of the egg and the egg-shell 
into the saucepan. 

20. Put in a quarter of a pound of lump sugar, half an 



216 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

inch of the stick of cinnamon, four cloves, and about a 
quarter of an inch of saffron. 

21. Now add the jelly-stock. 

22. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir the contents 
well with a whisk or iron spoon until it boils. 

23. Now put the lid on the saucepan and stand it by the 
side of the fire for twenty minutes or half an hour. 

24. If there is no jelly-bag, you should take a clean 
cloth, folded over corner wise, and sew it up one side, mak- 
ing it the shape of a jelly-bag. 

25. Place two chairs back to back in front of the fire. 

26. Hang the sewn-up cloth between the two chairs, by 
pinning it open to the top bar of each chair. 

27. Place a basin underneath the bag. 

28. Look at the jelly in the saucepan ; and when there 
is a good crust formed over, it is ready to be strained. 

29. Then take the saucepan off the fire, and pour the 
jelly into the bag, to pass into the basin. 

30. Repeat this two or three times, until the jelly runs 
through quite clear. 

N. B. A glass of wine may be added now, if desired. 

31. Take a quart basin, or a mould, scald it with hot 
water, and rinse it out with cold water. 

32. Pour the jelly into the basin and stand it aside to 
cool and set, until it is required for use. 

N. B. If Porter Jelly is required, put the jelly-stock into a saucepan, 
with a quarter of a pound of lump sugar, half a tcaspoonful of 
mixed spice, and half a pint of porter ; put it on the fire and let 
it boil for an- hour and a half, stirring occasionally ; then strain it 
In the same way as for lemon jelly. 

To make a Stew of the meat of the foot : 
1. Take one carrot, wash it, scrape it clean, and cut it 
in slices with a sharp knife. 



JELLIES. 247 

2. Take a small turnip and an onion, peel them, and 
cut them in slices. 

3. Put these vegetables into a saucepan with half an 
ounce of clarified dripping. 

4. Put the saucepan on the fire and let the vegetables 
fry a light-brown. Be careful they do not burn. 

5. Cut the meat off the bones of the foot, cut it up into 
nice pieces, and season them with pepper and salt accord- 
ing to taste. 

6. Put these pieces of meat into the saucepan with the 
vegetables. 

7. Then pour in one pint of cold water, just bring it to 
the boil, and remove the saucepan to the side of the fire 
to stew gently one hour, or till the vegetables are tender. 

8. Then strain off the liquor, and put the vegetables 
and meat on a dish. 

9. Put the dish near the fire, to keep warm. 

10. Put half an ounce of butter into the saucepan and 
put it on the fire to melt. 

11. When the butter is melted, add half an ounce of 
flour, and mix them well together with a wooden spoon. 

12. Stir in the liquor gradually, and stir it till it boils 
and thickens. 

13. Then remove the saucepan to the side of the fire. 

N.B. The sauce can be colored with burnt sugar or a browned onion. 

14. Now place in the meat and the vegetables, and let 
them just warm through. 

15. Serve this stew on a hot dish with boiled potatoes, 
or rice (see " Vegetables," Lessons First and Thirteenth). 

N.B. The bones of the foot should be put in the stock-pot. 
12 



248 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON SIXTH. 

APPLE JELLY. 

Ingredients. One pound of apples. One lemon. Three ounces of lump 
sugar. One ounce of gelatine. Half a teaspoonful of cochineal. 

Time required, about one hour. 

To make Apple Jelly : 

1. Peel one pound of apples with a sharp knife, cut 
them in half, take out the core, and then cut the apples in 
small pieces. 

2. Put them in a stewpan, with three ounces of lump 
sugar and half a pint of water. 

3. Wipe a lemon with a clean cloth. 

4. Take a grater and grate the rind of a lemon over 
the apples. 

N" . B. Be very careful to grate only the yellow peel of the lemon, as 
the white rind is very bitter. 

5. Cut the lemon in half, and squeeze the juice through 
a strainer on the apples. 

6. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil, and cook the 
apples quite tender. 

7. Stir the apples occasionally, to prevent them from 
sticking to the bottom of the pan and burning. 

8. Put one ounce of gelatine in a gallipot or small 
saucepan, with half a gill of cold water, and stand it by 
the side of the fire to dissolve. 

9. When the apples are cooked to a pulp, place a hair 
sieve over a basin and rub the apples through with a 
wooden spoon. 



JELLIES. 249 

10. Now stir the melted gelatine into the apple. 

N. B. Be very careful that the gelatine is quite smoothly dissolved ; 
there should be no lumps. 

N. B. If liked, part of the apple might be colored by stirring in half 
a teaspoonful of cochineal. 

11. Take a pint-and-a-half mould, rinse it out in boiling 
water, and then in cold water. 

12. Ornament the bottom of the mould with pistachio 
nuts cut in small pieces, or preserved cherries, according 
to taste. 

13. Now pour the apple in the mould, and if part of the 
apple is colored, you should fill the mould with alternate 
layers of colored and plain apple. 

14. Stand the mould aside in a cool place, to set the 
apple. 

15. For serving, dip the mould in boiling water for a 
second, and then turn out the apple jelly carefully on to a 
dish. 

N. B. Half a pint of double cream, whipped to a stiff froth, should 
be served with the apple jelly, either put round the edge of the 
dish or in the centre of the mould. 



CHAPTER XVII. 
CREAMS. 

LESSON FIRST. 
VANILLA CREAM. 

Ingredients. Three eggs. Half a pint of milk. Half an ounce of best 
gelatine. Half a pint of double cream. A tablespoonful of powdered 
sugar. Half a teaspoonful of essence of vanilla. 

Time required for making, about three-quarters of an hour. 

To make a Vanilla Cream : 

1. Tal^e the yolks of three eggs and one white, put them 
into a basin, and beat them well with a wooden spoon. 

2. Stir in half a pint of milk. 

3. Pour this mixture into a jug. 

4. Take a saucepan half full of hot water and put it on 
the fire to boil. 

5. "WTien the water is quite boiling, move the saucepan 
to the side of the fire. 

6. Stand the jug of custard in the saucepan of boiling 
water, and stir the mixture very smoothly, until it thickens 
to the consistence of cream. 

N. B. Stir it very carefully, and watch it continually, that it does not 
curdle. 



CREAMS. 251 

7. "When the custard is sufficiently thick, take the jug 
out of the water and stand it aside to cool. 

8. Put half an ounce of the lest gelatine in a small 
stewpan, with half a gill of cold water , to soak and swell. 

9. Then put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the gela- 
tine until it is quite melted. 

10. Pour this melted gelatine through a strainer and stir 
it into the custard. 

11. Pour half a pint of double cream into a basin, and 
whip it to a stiff froth with a whisk. 

12. Add to it a tablespoonful of powdered sugar and 
half a teaspoonful of essence of vanilla. 

N. B. If any other flavoring be preferred, it should now be added, 
instead of the essence of vanilla. 

13. When the custard is sufficiently cooled, stir it lightly 
into the whipped cream. 

14. Take a pint-and-a-half mould, scald it with hot 
water, and then rinse it out with cold water. 

15. Pour the cream into the mould, and stand it in ice 
until required for use. 

16. For serving, dip the mould into boiling water for a 
second, shake it to loosen the cream, and then turn it out 
carefully on to a dish. 

N. B. This is an economical receipt for making cream ; but if made 
entirely of cream, instead of cream and milk, it would, of course, 
be richer. 



252 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON SECOND. 
STRAWBERRY CKEAM. 

Ingredients. One pint of fresh strawberries. Two and a half ounces of 
powdered sugar. Half an ounce of the best gelatine. The juice of one 
lemon. Half a pint of good cream. 

Time required, about half an hour. 

To make a Strawberry Cream : 

1. Take a pint of fresh strawberries and put them on 
a board. 

2. Pick them over, and put aside any that are not quite 
good. 

3. Stalk them, and put them in a basin. 

4. Sprinkle over them half an ounce of white pow- 
dered sugar, which will help to draw out the juice. 

5. Take a silk sieve and place it over a basin. 

N. B. A hair sieve could be used instead. 

6. Pass the fruit through the sieve with a wooden 
spoon. 

7. Put half an ounce of the best gelatine into a small 
stewpan, with half a gill of cold water, to soak and to 
swell. 

8. Then put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the gela- 
tine until it is quite melted. 

9. Add two ounces of powdered sugar, and squeeze 
the juice of one lemon, through a strainer, into the stewpan. 

10. Pour this mixture through a strainer, and stir it 
into the strawberries in the basin, and mix them well to- 
gether. 

11. Pour half a pint of good cream into a basin, and 
whip it to a stiff froth with a whisk. 



CREAMS. 253 

12. Now add this cream to the strawberries in the ba- 
sin, and stir them lightly together. 

13. Take a pint mould, scald it with hot water, and 
then rinse it out with cold water. 

14. Pour the strawberry cream into the mould, and 
stand it in ice until required for use. 

15. For serving, dip the mould into boiling water for a 
second, shake it to loosen the cream, and then turn it out 
carefully on to a dish. 

LESSON THIRD. 
CHARLOTTE KUSSE. 

Ingredients. Twelve sponge finger-biscuits. Half an ounce of the best 
gelatine. One gill of milk. Half a pint of double cream. One dessert- 
spoonful of sifted sugar. Thirty drops of essence of vanilla. 

Time required for making, about half an hour. 

To make a Charlotte Russe : 

1. Take a pint tin and line it inside with sponge fin- 
ger-biscuits. 

N. B. Be careful to fit the biscuits close to eacli other, so that they 
form a wall of themselves. 

2. Take a knife and cut off the tops of the finger-lis- 
cuits that stand above the tin. 

3. Put half an ounce of the lest gelatine in a small 
stewpan, with one gill of cold milk, to soak and swell. 

4. Pour half a pint of double cream into a basin and 
whip it to a stiff froth with a whisk. 

5. Add to it a dessertspoonful of sifted powdered sugar 
and thirty drops of essence of vanilla. 

6. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the gelatine 
until it is quite melted. 



254: LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

7. Stir the melted gelatine into the cream, pouring it 
through a strainer. 

8. Pour this cream into the tin. 

N.B. Be careful, in pouring in the cream, not to disarrange the 
finger-biscuits. 

9. Stand this tin in ice until it is required for use. 

10. For serving, dip the tin into hot water for a second, 
shake the tin to loosen the creain, and turn it carefully on 
to a dish. 

N. B. A more economical Charlotte Russe might be made by using 
a quarter of a pint of custard to a quarter of a pint of cream (as 
in " Creams," Lesson First). 



CHAPTER XVIII. 
SOUFFLES. 

LESSON FIRST. 
VANILLA SOUFFLE. 

Ingredients. Four eggs. One and one-quarter ounce of butter. A des- 
sertspoonful of sugar. One ounce of flour. Half a teaspoonful of es- 
sence of vanilla. Salt. One gill of milk. 

Ingredients (for Wine-Sauce). One ounce of sugar. One tablespoonful of 
jam. Wineglassful of sherry. Half a teaspoonful of lemon-juice. 

Ingredients (for Custard-Sauce). One egg. Sugar, and six drops of va- 
nilla. One gill of milk. 

Time required, about three-quarters of an hour. 

To make a Steamed Vanilla Souffle Pudding : 

1. Prepare the tin for the souffle pudding thus : 

2. Take a pint-and-a-half tin and butter it well inside, 
using your fingers for the purpose. 

3. Fold a piece of paper so as to make a band round 
the tin, allowing about two inches of paper to stand up 
above the tin. 

4. Butter the part of paper above the tin with a knife. 

5. Put the paper round the outside of the tin, and tie 
it on with a string. 



256 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

6. Take a stewpan and just melt one ounce of butter 
in it over the fire. 

7. Take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a 
piece of paper on the table. 

8. Add one ounce of flour to the melted butter, and 
mix them both well together. 

9. Then add rather more than a dessertspoonful of 
powdered sugar. 

10. Add one gill of milk. 

11. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir smoothly with 
a wooden spoon until it thickens. 

12. Then take the stewpan off the fire again. 

13. Add to the mixture the yolks of three eggs, one at 
a time, and beat all well together. 

14. Take the three whites and put them in a basin, with 
one more white to make four, adding half a salt-spoonful 
of salt, and then whip the whites quite stiff. 

15. Add the whites to the above mixture, and stir it 
lightly. 

16. Now add the flavoring half a teaspoonful of va- 
nilla essence. 

N. B. If the essence is very strong, or the bottle newly opened, so 
much is not required. 

17. Mix all together, and pour it into the buttered tin. 

18. Have ready a saucepan half filled with hot water, 
and put it on the fire to boil. 

19. "When the water boils, stand the tin in it, but be. 
careful that the water does not reach the paper round the 
tin, for it is only the steam which cooks the pudding. 

20. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let 
the pudding steam from twenty to thirty minutes. 

21. Watch it, not letting the water boil too fast, or the 
saucepan will get dry and the pudding will burn. 



SOUFFLES. 257 

22. When it is sufficiently steamed, take the mould out 
of the saucepan of water. 

N. B. To test if the pudding is done, touch the centre of it with your 
finger ; it should feel firm. 

23. Shake the tin and turn the souffle pudding out on a 
hot dish, and pour the sauce round it, which you must 
prepare while the souffle is being steamed. 

X. B. If a baked vanilla souffle pudding is required, put the tin in 

a quick oven (the heat should be 240) to bake for half an hour, 
instead of putting it" in the boiling water. No sauce is then 
wanted. 

To make the Sauce for the Steamed Vanilla Souffle 
Pudding : 

For Wine-Sauce: 

1. Take a small saucepan and put in it one ounce of 
loaf sugar and one gill of cold water. 

2. Put the saucepan on the fire and stir the sugar and 
water with a spoon, until the sugar has quite melted and 
it has become a smooth syrup, reduced in quantity. 

3. Put into it a tablespoonful of apricot jam. 

4. Stir it all together over the fire, to melt the jam. 

5. Add a wineglassful of sherry and a few drops of 
lemon-juice, and stir it all again. 

6. Take the stewpnn off the fire, and pour the sauce 
round the souffle pudding. 

N. B. Pour the sauce around very carefully, so as not to drop any of 
it on the side of the pudding. 

You can make a Custard-Sauce ', if preferred thus : 

1. Break a whole egg in a basin and whip it well. 

2. Add half a teaspoonful of pounded sugar. 

3. Add one gill of milk and six drops of vanilla essence. 



258 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

4. Pour all the mixture into a jug or gallipot. 

5. Get a large saucepan of hot water and put it on the 
fire. 

6. Stand the gallipot in the saucepan of hot water. 

N. B. The water must only come half-way up the gallipot. 

7. Stir the mixture in the gallipot with a wooden 
spoon. 

8. As soon as the mixture has thickened, take the 
gallipot out of the saucepan. 

9. Pour the custard round the souffle pudding. 



LESSON SECOND. 
CHEESE SOUFFLE. 

Ingredients* One ounce of butter and one ounce of flour. One teaspoon- 
ful of mignonette or white pepper. Salt, pepper, and Cayenne pepper. 
One gill of milk. Three eggs. Three ounces of Parmesan cheese. 

Time required, about forty minutes* 

To make a Cheese Souffle : 

1. Take a stewpan and put into it one ounce of butter. 

2. Add one teaspoonful of mignonette pepper. 1 

3. Put the stewpan on the fire and let the pepper fry 
in the butter (to extract its flavor) for two or three min- 
utes. 

4. Take the stewpan off the fire, and strain the butter 
into a basin ; as the pepper is only for flavoring, the grains 
must not be left in the butter. 

5. Wash out the stewpan, to prevent any of the grains 
remaining. 

6. Pour the flavored butter back in the stewpan. 

7. Add one ounce of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, half 

1 White pepper-corns. 



SOUFFLES. 259 

a teaspoonful of pepper, and Cayenne pepper according 
to taste, and stir well together with a wooden spoon. 

8. Add one gill of milk. 

9. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the mixture 
smooth until it thickens. 

10. Take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a piece 
of paper on the table. 

11. Add one by one the yolks of two eggs, and beat 
them well together. 

12. Take three ounces of Parmesan cheese. 

13. Grate the cheese with a grater on to a plate or piece 
of paper. 

14. Add the three ounces of grated cheese to the above 
mixture in the stewpan, and mix it all well together. 

15. Whip the whites of four eggs with a little salt in a 
basin, until quite stiff. 

16. Add the whites to the above mixture, and stir it 
lightly. 

17. Take a plain pint tin mould and prepare it in the 
same way as for the Vanilla Souffle Pudding (see Lesson 
First). 

18. Pour the mixture into the buttered tin mould. 

N. B. This same mixture, if poured into Ramaquin papers and baked, 
will make cheese Ramaquins. 

19. Put the tin in a hot oven to bake from twenty min- 
utes to half an hour. Look at it once or twice to see that 
it does not burn ; but the door of the oven should not be 
opened too often while the souffle is inside, lest it should 
check the souffle from rising properly. 

N. B. To serve a baked souffle", it should be kept in the tin, the 
buttered paper taken off, and. a clean napkin folded round the 
tin. It can also be baked in a mould, which slips inside a plated- 
silver dish sold for the purpose. This 'is the more elegant way of 
serving a souffle" or fondu. 



260 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON THIRD. 
POTATO SOUFFLE. 

Ingredients. Four potatoes. One ounce of butter. Half a gill of milk. 
Four eggs. Seasoning. 

Time required, about an hour. 

To make Potato Souffle: 

1. Take four good-sized potatoes, and wash and scrub 
them with a brush in a basin of cold water. 

2. Take them out of the water and dry them with a 
cloth. 

3. Put them in the oven (the heat should rise to 230) 
to bake ; they will take from half an hour to three-quar- 
ters of an hour, according to the heat of the oven and the 
size of the potatoes. 

4. Take a steel fork or skewer and stick it into the po- 
tatoes, to see if they are done. They must be soft inside. 

N. B. This should be carefully done, so as not to spoil the potato- 
skins. 

5. When they are done, take them out and cut them 
(with a sharp knife) in half, so that each half of the potato 
will stand because you will want to use the skins to put 
the potatoes into them again. 

6. Take a small spoon and carefully scoop out all the 
inside of the potatoes. Take care not to make holes, or 
spoil the skins in any way. 

7. Take a wire sieve and put it over a plate, and take 
the inside of the potatoes and rub it through with a wooden 
spoon. 

8. Put one ounce of Gutter and half a gill of milk in a 
etewpan, and put it on the fire to boil. 

9. Add salt .sf^di pepper according to taste. 



SOUFFLES. 261 

10. Then add three ounces of the sifted potatoes, and 
stir it smoothly. 

11. Now take the stewpan off the fire, and stand it on a 
piece of paper or wooden trivet on the table. 

12.' Take three eggs and add, one by one, only the yolks, 
beating all well together with a wooden spoon. 

13. Take the three whites and add another white to 
make four, and put them in a basin ; add a quarter of a 
salt-spoonful of salt to them, and whip them to a stiff froth. 

14. Add the whites to the above mixture, and stir the 
whole lightly. 

15. Now stand the eight half-potato skins on a baking- 
sheet. 

16. Pour the mixture carefully into each potato-skin 
(they should be only half full). 

17. Put the sheet into the oven (the heat should rise to 
240) for ten minutes, until they have risen well and be- 
come a pale-brown color. 

18. Fold a table-napkin, and arrange them on it for 
serving. 

LESSON FOURTH. 
OMELET SOUFFLE. 

Ingredients. Two eggs. Half an ounce of butter. Jam. Sugar and salt. 
Teaspoonful of orange-flower water. 

Time required, about ten minutes. 

To make an Omelet Souffle of two eggs : 

1. Break two eggs ; put the whites in one basin and 
the yolks in another. 

2. Put one teaspoonful of orange-flower water and 
one tablespoonf ul of powdered sugar into a stewpan. 



262 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

3. Put the stewpan on the fire and let it boil quickly 
for three minutes, stirring occasionally. 

4. Then pour it into a cup to cool, add it to the yolks 
of egg, and beat them to a cream. 

5. Add a quarter of a salt-spoonful of salt to the whites 
of egg, and whip them to a stiff froth. 

6. Add the whites to the mixture in the basin, and 
mix them together very lightly. 

7. Put half an ounce of butter into a frying-pan. 

8. Put the pan on the fire and let the butter get quite 
hot, but not burn. 

9. When the butter is quite hot, pour in the mixture. 

10. Let it stay on a slow fire for two, but not more than 
three, minutes. 

11. Then take the pan off the fire and put it in a brisk 
oven (the heat should rise to 240). 

12. Let it stay for about three or four minutes in the 
oven. 

13. Take rather more than a dessertspoonful of jam. 

14. Put the jam into a stewpan on the fire and stir it 
until it has melted. 

15. Take the pan out of the oven. 

16. Take a knife and pass it round the edge Y)f the 
omelet souffle, to ease it from the pan. 

17. Give the pan a shake, to loosen the omelet souffle. 

18. Turn the omelet souffle on to a hot dish. 

19. Spread the jam on the omelet souffle, and fold it 
over like a sandwich. 

20. Sprinkle a little white powdered sugar over it. 



SOUFFLES. 263 



LESSON FIFTH. 
SAVORY OMELET. 

Ingredients. Two eggs. Salt, pepper, and parsley. One ounce of butter. 
Time required, about four minutes. 

To make a Savory Omelet of two eggs : 

1. Break two eggs in a basin. 

2. Add a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, and pepper 
to taste. 

3. Take a sprig of parsley ^ wash it, dry it, and chop it 
up finely on a board (there should be about a teaspoonful). 

4. Add the chopped parsley to the eggs. 

5. Beat the eggs lightly for two seconds with a fork. 

N. B. The omelet could be flavored with chopped herbs or mush- 
rooms, with bacon or kidney cut in small pieces, or with grated 
cheese, according to taste. 

6. Take one ounce of lutter and put it in an omelet or 
frying pan. 

7. Put the pan on the fire to melt the butter. 

N. B. The fire should be bright and clear. 

8. Wait till the butter is quite hot, taking care that it 
does not burn. 

9. Pour the mixture of the egg into the pan. 

10. Stir the mixture quickly with a wooden spoon. 

11. Do not let it burn, or stick to the pan. Shake the 
pan, to prevent the omelet sticking or burning. 

12. Spread it over the bottom of the pan and let it cook 
through. 

13. Watch it very carefully. 

14. Take a knife and put it under the omelet, and fold 
it over. 



264 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

15. When the omelet has become a pale-brown, turn it 
out of the pan on to a hot dish. 



LESSON SIXTH. 
CHEESE STRAWS. 

Ingredients* Two ounces of butter. Two ounces of flour. Two ounces 
of grated Parmesan cheese. One ounce of Cheddar cheese. One egg. 
Salt, and Cayenne pepper. 

Time required, about twenty minutes. 

To make Cheese Straws : 

1. Put two ounces of flour on a board, and mix into it 
half a salt-spoonful of salt and a quarter of a salt-spoonful 
of Cayenne pepper. 

2. Take two ounces of Parmesan cheese and one ounce 
of Cheddar or some strong cheese, and grate them on a 
grater. 

3. Rub the cheese and two ounces of butter into the 
flour. 

4. Now mix all the ingredients, together with the yolk 
of an egg, into a smooth, stiff paste. 

5. Flour the board and the rolling-pin, and roll out 
the paste into a strip one-eighth of an inch in thickness 
and five inches wide (the length the cheese straws are 
to be). 

6. Now take a sharp knife, dip it in flour, and cut the 
paste into strips one-eighth of an inch wide, so that they 
will be Jive inches long and one-eighth of an inch in thick- 
ness. 

7. Take two round cutters, dip them in flour, and cut 
little rings of paste. 



SOUFFLES. 265 

8. Take a baking-sheet and grease it with butter. 

9. Put the cheese straws and the rings on the baking- 
sheet, and put them into a hot oven (the heat should rise to 
240) for ten minutes. 

10. Look at the cheese straws occasionally, and see that 
they do not burn ; they should be of a pale-brown color 
when done. 

11. For serving, take the cheese straws off the baking- 
sheet, and put them through the rings of paste, like a bun- 
dle of sticks. 



CHAPTER XIX, 
PICKLES FOR MEAT AND CABBAGE. 

LESSON FIRST. 
PICKLE FOB MEAT. 

Ingredients. One and one-half pound of salt. Six ounces of brown 
sugar. One ounce of saltpetre. One gallon of water. 

Time required, about half an hour. 

To make Pickle for Meat : 

1. Put one pound and a half of salt, six ounces of 
brown sugar, one ounce of saltpetre, and one gallon of 
water, into a large saucepan. 

2. Put the saucepan on the fire to bring it to the boil, 
and then let it boil for five minutes. Keep it well skimmed. 

3. Then strain it into a tub or large basin. 

4. When the pickle is quite cold, meat can be put 
into it. 

N. B. The meat should be kept well covered with the pickle nine days. 
N. B. This pickle will keep for three weeks in summer and three 

months in winter. 
N. B. When the pickle is required again after it has once been used, 

it should be boiled up again, skimmed, strained, and allowed to 

get cold, before the fresh meat is put into it. 
N. B. If used for pig's head, it should be thrown away, and not used 

again. 



PICKLES FOR MEAT AND CABBAGE. 267 

LESSON SECOND. 
PICKLED CABBAGE. 

Ingredients. A red cabbage. A gallon of vinegar. Mace, cloves, all- 
spice, whole pepper. Salt and ginger. 

Time required, about three days. 

To Pickle a Callage : 

1. Take a red callage, cut it in half and cut out the 
stalk, and wash it well in salt and cold water. 

N. B. A white-heart cabbage will do to pickle, but green cabbages 
cannot be used. 

2. Put it on a board and cut it in thin slices. 

3. Lay the slices in a large pan, sprinkle a handful of 
salt over each layer of slices, cover the top well with salt, 
and leave them for two days. 

N. B. Turn the slices every morning and evening, and sprinkle a 
handful of salt over the layers each time you turn them. 

4. Then drain the slices on a hair sieve for one day. 

5. Put a gallon of vinegar, two blades of mace, twenty- 
four cloves, twenty-four allspice berries, and twenty-four 
pepper-corns, into a saucepan, with three pieces of ginger 
an inch long. 

6. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let it boil up. 

7. Then turn the vinegar and spices out of the sauce- 
pan into a broad pan, to cool. 

N. B. They must on no account be allowed to cool in the saucepan. 



268 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

8. Put the cabbage into a stone jar, and pour the vin- 
egar and spices over it. 

9. The cabbage must be quite covered with vinegar, 
and as it soaks it up more vinegar must be poured over it. 

N. B. This quantity of vinegar is sufficient for a large cabbage ; a 
smaller one will take less. 

10. Tie the jar over with wash-leather, brown paper, or 
a bladder. 



CHAPTER XX. 

CAKES. 

i 

LESSON PIEST. 
SULTANA CAKE. 

Ingredients* Half a pound of flour. Quarter of a pound of butter. 
Quarter of a pound of sugar. Quarter of a pound of sultana raisins. 
One ounce of candied peel. Two eggs. One teaspoonful of baking-pow- 
der. Half a gill of milk. One lemon. 

Time required, about one hour and a half. 

To make a Sultana Cake : 

1. Put half a pound of flour into a basin. 

2. Rub a quarter of a pound of butter into the flour 
with your hands. 

3. Now add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, 
a teaspoonful of baking-powder, and a quarter of a pound 
of sultana raisins. 

4. Take a lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and grate 
the rind of it into the basin. 

5. Cut up one ounce of candied peel into small pieces, 
and add it to the other ingredients. 

6. Put half a gill of milk into a small basin, and add 
to it the yolks of two eggs. (Put the whites on a plate.) 

7. Stir the milk and the eggs together and then pour 
it into the other ingredients, and mix all together. 

8. Butter a cake-tin. 



270 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

9. Whip the whites of the eggs into a stiff froth with 
a knife, and stir it lightly into the mixture. 

10. Now pour it into the tin, and put it into the oven 
(the heat should rise to 240) to bake for one hour and a 
quarter. 

11. After that time, turn the cake out of the tin and 
stand it on its side, or on a sieve, to cool. 

N. B. This will prevent its getting heavy. 



LESSON SECOND. 
GERMAN POUND- CAKE. 

Ingredients. Ten ounces of flour. Eight ounces of fresh butter. Eight 
ounces of powdered sugar. Two ounces of candied peel. One lemon. 

Quarter of a pound of sultana raisins. Four eggs. 
r 

Time required, about two hours and a quarter. 

To make a German Pound- Cake : 

1. Stand a wire sieve over a plate, and rub through it 
ten ounces of flour. 

2. Put eight ounces of fresh butter into a basin, and 
work it to a cream with your hand. 

3. Add a tablespoonful of the sifted flour, a tallespoon- 
ful of powdered sugar, and one egg, and mix them well 
into the butter. 

4. Continue to mix in, by degrees, the flour, sugar, 
and eggs, until they are all used up. 

5. Take a lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and grate 
the rind of it into the basin: 

6. Add a quarter of a pound of sultana raisins and 
two ounces of candied peel (cut up in small pieces). 

7. Stir all the ingredients together with a spoon. 



CAKES. 271 

8. Line a cake-tin with buttered foolscap paper, and 
put three rounds of buttered paper at the bottom of 
the tin. 

9, Pour the mixture into the tin, and put it into 
the oven (the heat should rise to 240) to bake for two 
hours. 

10. After that time, turn the cake out of the tin and 
stand it on its side, or on a sieve, to cool. 



LESSON THIRD. 
PLAIN CAKE. 

Ingredients. One pound of flour. Four ounces of dripping. Baking- 
powder, allspice, and salt. Quarter of a pound of currants. Half a pint 
of milk. Quarter of a pound of sugar. 

To make a Plain Cake : 

1. Take one pound of flour and put it in a pan or 
large basin. 

2. Mix into the flour a teaspoonful of baking-powder 
and half a salt-spoonful of salt. 

3. Take four ounces of clarified dripping, and rub it 
well into the flour with your fingers until there are no 
lumps remaining. 

4. Take a quarter of a pound of currants, put them 
in a cloth, and rub them clean. 

5. Add the currants to the flour ; also half a teaspoon- 
ful of ground allspice and a quarter of a pound of brown 
sugar. 

6. Mix these ingredients together with a wooden spoon. 

7. Now pour in half a pint of milk, and mix it all 
well together. 



272 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

8. Take a half-a-quartern tin and grease it inside with 
a piece of .dripping. 

9. Pour this mixture into the tin. 

10. Put the tin into the oven (the heat should rise to 
240) to bake for one Jwur. 

11. After that time, take the tin out of the oven. 

12. Turn the cake out of the tin and stand it on its side, 
to cool. 

LESSON FOURTH. 
SEED CAKE. 

Ingredients. Ten ounces of flour. Two ounces of sugar. One teaspoon- 
ful of baking-powder. One teaspoonful of caraway seeds. Two ounces 
of clarified dripping. Half a gill of milk. One egg. Salt. 

Time required, one hour and a half. 

To make a Seed Cake : 

1. Take ten ounces of flour and put it in a basin. 

2. Mix into the flour one teaspoonful of baking-powder 
and half a salt-spoonful of salt. 

3. Take two ounces of clarified dripping and rub it 
well into the flour with your hands, until there are no 
lumps remaining. 

4. Add two ounces of powdered sugar and one tea- 
spoonful of caraway seeds. . 

5. Mix these well together with a wooden spoon. 

6. Break one egg into a cup, and beat it up with half 
a gill of milk. 

7. Pour this into the basin, and mix all quickly to- 
gether into a stiff paste stiff enough to allow a spoon to 
stand up in it. 

8. Take a cake-tin and grease it inside with a piece of 
dripping. 



CAKES. 273 

9. Pour the mixture into the tin, and put it at once in 
the oven (the heat should rise to 240) to bake for one hour. 

10. To know when the cake is sufficiently baked, run a 
clean knife into it ; if it comes out perfectly bright and 
undimmed by steam, the cake is done. 

11. Turn the cake out of the tin and stand it on its side, 
to cool. 



LESSON FIFTH. 
PLUM CAKE. 

Ingredients. One pound of flour. Half a pound of fruit (plums or cur- 
rants). Quarter of a pound of dripping. Quarter of a pound of sugar. 
One egg. Half a gill of milk. A teaspoonful of baking-powder. Salt. 
Two ounces of candied peel. 

Time required, about one hour and a quarter. 

To make a Plum Cake : 

1. Put one pound of flour into a basin, with a tea- 
spoonful of baking-powder and half a salt-spoonful of salt. 

2. Take a quarter of a pound of clarified dripping and 
rub it well into the flour with your hands until there are 
no lumps remaining. 

3. Take half a pound of plums or currants, or a quar- 
ter of a pound of each, and add them to the flour. 

N. B. If currants are used, they should be well washed and dried in 
a cloth, and picked over, to see that there are no stones in them. 
Large plums should be stoned before they are used. 

4. Take two ounces of candied peel^ cut it in small 
pieces, and put it in the basin. Also add a quarter of a 
pound of sugar. 

N. B. If peel is disliked, it may be omitted. 



274 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

5. Break one egg into a basin, and add to it half a gill 
of milk, and beat them up. 

6. Stir this into the ingredients in the basin, mixing 
them all well together. 

7. Take a tin and grease it inside with dripping. 

8. Pour the mixture into the tin and put it into the 
oven (the heat should rise to 240) to bake for about an 
hour. 

9. After that time, turn the cake out of the tin and 
stand it on its side, slanting against a plate, till it is cold. 



LESSON SIXTH. 
COEN-STAKCH CAKE. 

Ingredients. Quarter of a pound of corn-starch. Quarter of a pound of 
loaf sugar. Two ounces of butter. One teaspoonful of baking-powder. 
Two eggs. 

Time required, about one hour. 

To make a Corn-Starch Cake : 

1. Put two ounces of butter into a basin and beat it to a 
cream. 

2. Add to the butter a quarter of a pound of pounded 
loaf sugar, and mix it well. 

3. Break in two eggs, and beat all well together. 

4. Now stir lightly into the mixture a quarter of a 
pound of corn-starch and a teaspoonful of baking-powder, 
and beat it well together for five minutes. 

5. Grease a cake-tin inside with butter or dripping. 

6. Pour the mixture into the tin and put it immediate- 
ly into the oven (the heat should rise to 240) to bake for 
half an hour. 



CAKES. 275 

7. After that time, turn the cake out of tire tin and 
slant it against a plate, until it is cold. 

N". B. If preferred, the mixture could be baked in small tins instead 
of one large one, in which case it would take only fifteen minutes 
to bake. 



LESSON SEVENTH. 
DOUGH CAKE. 

Ingredients. Half a quartern of dough. Two eggs. Half a pound of 
sugar. One pound of currants. 

Time required, about an hour and a half. 

To make a Dough Cake : 

1. Put half a quartern of dough (made as for bread 
see " Bread," Lesson First) into a basin. 

2. Take one pound of currants, wash them, dry them 
in a cloth, and pick them over, to see that there are no 
stones mixed with them. 

3. Add the currants and half a pound of moist sugar 
to the dough. 

N. B. If liked, half a teaspoonful of mixed spice might be added. 

4. Now break two eggs into the basin, and beat all the 
ingredients well together. 

5. Take a quartern tin and grease it well inside with 
dripping. 

6. Turn the mixture into the greased tin. 

7. Put the tin into the oven (the heat should rise to 
240 ) until the cake is sufficiently baked ; it will take 
about forty minutes. 

N. B. To test if the cake is done, run a clean knife into it ; and if it 
comes out clean, the cake is sufficiently baked. 



276 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

8. Then turn the cake out of the tin and place it on its 
side, leaning against a plate, until it is cold. 



LESSON EIGHTH. 
SHREWSBURY CAKES. 

Ingredients. Quarter of a pound of butter. Quarter of a pound of cas- 
tor sugar. Six ounces of flour. One teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon 
and mace. One egg. 

Time required, about half an hour. 

To make Shrewsbury Cakes : 

1. Put a quarter of a pound of butter and a quarter of 
a pound of castor sugar into a basin, and beat them to- 
gether till the mixture is of the same consistence as cream. 

N. B. If the butter is very hard, it might be beaten over hot water. 

2. Add to the mixture one egg and about a teaspoon- 
ful of pounded cinnamon and mace (mixed together), and 
beat all well together. 

3. Now stir in smoothly, by degrees, six ounces of flour. 

N. B. Be careful not to let it get lumpy. 

4. Flour a board and turn the paste out on to it. 

5. Flour a rolling-pin and roll out the paste as thin as 
possible. 

6. Dip a cutter, or wineglass, in flour, and cut the paste 
into biscuits or cakes. 

7. Grease a baking-tin with dripping or butter, and 
put the cakes on it. 

8. Put the tin into the oven (the heat should rise to 
240) to bake for about twenty minutes. They should be 
a light-brown when baked. 

9. The cakes are then ready for use. 



CAKES. 277 

LESSON NINTH. 
KOOK CAKES. 

Ingredients. Half a pound of flour. Quarter of a pound of currants. 
Quarter of a pound of sugar. Two ounces of candied peel. Two tea- 
spoonfuls of baking-powder. One teaspoonful of grated nutmeg or gin- 
ger. Quarter of a pound of clarified dripping. One egg. Half a gill of milk. 

Time required, half an hour. 

To make Rock Cakes : 

1. Put half a pound of flour into a basin. 

2. Stir two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder into the 
flour. 

3. Take a quarter of a pound of clarified dripping and 
rub it well into the flour with your hands until there are 
no lumps remaining. 

4. Take a quarter of a pound of currants, put them in 
a cloth, rub them clean, and pick them over to see that 
there are no stones with them. 

5. Add the currants to the flour, also one teaspoonful 
of ground ginger or grated nutmeg, and a quarter of a 
pound of crushed loaf sugar. 

6. Take two ounces of candied peel, cut it in pieces, 
and add it to the other ingredients. 

7. Mix all these ingredients together with a wooden 
spoon. 

8. Break one egg into a cup, and beat it up with about 
half a gill of milk. 

9. Pour this into the basin, and mix all well together 
into a very stiff paste. 

10. Take a tin and grease it with dripping. 

11. Divide the paste into small portions with two forks, 
and lay them in rough heaps on the tin. 



278 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

12. Put them into the oven (the heat should rise to 
240) to bake for about fifteen minutes. 

13. After that time, take them out of the oven, and the 
cakes are then ready for use. 



LESSON TENTH. 
GINGER-BREAD NUTS. 

Ingredients. One pound of flour. Half a pound of treacle. Four ounces 
of butter. Half an ounce of ground ginger. Allspice. One teaspoonful 
of carbonate of soda. Salt. 

Time required, about twenty-Jive minutes. 

To make Ginger-Bread Nuts : 

1. Put one pound of flour into a basin with about half 
a salt-spoonful of salt. 

2. Add half an ounce of ground ginger, one teaspoon- 
ful of carbonate of soda, and allspice. 

3. Put half a pound of treacle and four ounces of but- 
ter into a saucepan, and melt them together over the fire. 

4. Mix the ingredients together, and then add the 
melted treacle and the four ounces of butter, and mix all 
well together into a firm paste. 

N. B. Be very careful that all the ingredients are well mixed, and 
that there are no lumps left. 

5. Flour a board, and turn the paste out on to it. 

6. Flour your hands and knead the paste. 

7. Now divide the paste into about twenty-four pieces. 

8. Roll each piece into a ball, like a walnut, and put 
them two inches apart on a greased tin. 

9. Put them into the oven (the heat should rise to 
240) for fifteen minutes. 

10. After that time, turn the ginger-bread nuts off the 
tin and set them aside to cool. 



CHAPTER XXI. 
BUNS, BISCUITS, ROLLS, BREAD, ETC. 



LESSON PIRST. 
BUNS. 

Ingredients. Half an ounce of German yeast. One and a half pound of 
flour. Three gills of milk. One ounce of butter. Quarter of a pound 
of moist sugar. Quarter of a pound of sultana raisins or currants. 

Time required, about two hours and a half. 

To make Buns : 

1. Put one gill and a half of milk into a saucepan, 
and put it on the fire. 

2. Put half an ounce of German yeast into a basin. 

3. "When the milk is just warm, pour it by degrees 
on to the yeast, mixing them well together with a spoon. 

4. Put one pound of flour into a large basin, and stir 
into it the milk and yeast, mixing it into a dough. 

5. Cover the basin with a cloth and stand it on the 
fender, and let it rise for about one hour. 

6. Put one gill and a half of milk into a saucepan with 
one ounce of butter, and put it on the fire to warm. 

7. Put half a pound of flour into a basin, and stir into 
it the milk and butter. 



280 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

8. When the dough is sufficiently risen, turn it into 
this mixture, and work them well together. 

9. Now add a quarter of a pound of sultana raisins 
or currants and a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, and 
mix all well together. 

N. B. If currants are used, they should be well washed, dried in a 
cloth, and carefully picked over, to see if there are any stones 
mixed with them. 

10. Cover the basin with a cloth and stand it near the 
fire, to rise again for one hour. 

11. After that time, take a tin and grease it with drip- 
ping or butter. 

N. B. If there is no tin, the shelf from the oven should be greased 
and used instead. 

12. Flour a paste-board and turn the dough out on it. 

13. Take a knife, dip it in flour, and cut the dough 
into pieces. 

14. Flour your hands, and form the dough into balls. 

N. B. This quantity of dough will make about twenty-seven ordinary, 
sized buns. 

15. Put the buns on the tin. 

16. Put the tin into the oven (the heat should rise to 
240 ), to bake the buns for about half an hour. 

17. When they are half done, take the tin out of the 
oven, brush the buns over with water, and sprinkle white 
sugar over them. 

18. ISTow put the tin back into the oven. 

19. When the buns are sufficiently baked, take them 
o the tin, and slant them against a plate, until they are 
cold. 

N. B. This will prevent their getting heavy. 



BUNS, BISCUITS, ROLLS, BREAD, ETC. 281 

LESSON SECOND. 
EICE BUNS. 

Ingredients. Quarter of a pound of ground rice. Quarter of a pound of 
sugar. Two ounces of butter. Two eggs. Half a teaspoonful of bak- 
ing-powder. 

Time required, half an Tiour. 

To make Rice Buns : 

1. Put a quarter of a pound of ground rice into a 
basin, with half a teaspoonful of laJcing-powder. 

2. Add a quarter of a pound of pounded loaf sugar 
and two ounces of butter, and mix all together with a 
wooden spoon. 

3. Break in two eggs, and beat all lightly together. 

N. B. Be careful to see that the eggs are good before adding them 
to the mixture. 

4. Take some small tins, or patty-pans, and grease 
them well with a piece of dripping or butter. 

5. Fill these tins two-thirds full with the mixture. 

N. B. This quantity will make about eight or ten buns. 

N. B. If there are no small tins, the mixture could be put into a 
cake-tin, which should be previously greased inside. 

6. Put the tins into the oven (the heat should rise to 
240 ) to bake ioY fifteen minutes. 

7. After that time, turn the buns out of the tins and 
lean them against a plate, until they are cold. 



282 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON THIRD. 
MILK BISCUITS. 

Ingredients. One gill of milk. One ounce of butter. Half a pound of 
flour. Teaspoonful of baking-powder. 

Time required, about half an hour. 

To make Milk Biscuits : 

1. Put one gill of milk into a saucepan ; add to it one 
ounce of outter, and put it on the fire to warm. 

2. Put half a pound of flour into a basin, with a tea- 
spoonful of baking-powder. 

3. When the milk is hot, pour it into the flour, and 
stir it into a smooth, stiff paste. 

4. Flour a board and turn the paste on to it. 

5. Flour a rolling-pin, and roll the paste into as thin a 
sheet as possible. 

6. Flour a docker or tumbler, and cut the paste into 
rounds the size of a teacup. 

7. Grease a tin with dripping or butter, and place the 
biscuits on it. 

8. Put the tin into the oven (the heat should rise to 
240) to bake for twenty minutes. 

9. After that, turn the biscuits off the tin and set them 
aside to cool. 



BUNS, BISCUITS, ROLLS, BREAD, ETC. 283 

LESSON FOURTH. 
OATMEAL BISCUITS. 

Ingredients. Seven ounces of flour. Three ounces of oatmeal. Three 
ounces of powdered sugar. Three ounces of lard or butter. Quarter of 
a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. One egg. 

Time required, about half an hour. 

To make Oatmeal Biscuits : 

1. Put three ounces of lard or butter into a saucepan, 
and put it on the fire to melt. 

2. Put seven ounces of flour into a basin, with three 
ounces of oatmeal, three ounces of powdered sugar, and a 
quarter of a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, and mix all 
together with a spoon. 

3. Now stir in the melted lard. 

4. Put about a tablespoonful of cold water into a tea- 
cup ; break one egg into the water, and beat them slightly 
together. 

5. Add this to the mixture in the basin, and mix all 
well and smoothly together with a spoon. 

6. Flour a board and turn the paste out on it. 

7. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out the paste as 
thin as possible. 

8. Flour a tumbler and cut the paste into biscuits, 
according to taste. 

9. Grease a baking-tin with dripping or butter, and 
place the biscuits on it. 

10. Put the tin into the oven (the heat should rise to 
240) to bake for twenty minutes. 



284: LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON FIFTH. 
SCONES. 

Ingredients. One pound of flour. Quarter of a pint of milk. Quarter of 
a pound of butter. One dessertspoonful of baking-powder. 

Time required, about forty minutes. 

To make Scones : 

1. Put one pound of flour into a basin, and mix into 
it a dessertspoonful of baking-powder. 

2. Take a quarter of a pound of butter and rub it well 
into the flour with, your hands. 

3. Now turn it out on to a floured board. 

4. Flour a rolling-pin and roll it out, to make sure 
that the butter is well mixed with the flour. 

5. Mix it into a smooth paste with rather less than a 
quarter of a pint of milk. 

N. B. The paste must not be moist. 

6. Flour the rolling-pin and roll out the paste to a 
thin sheet, about one-third of an inch in thickness. 

7. Take a knife, dip it in flour, and cut the paste into 
triangular pieces, each side about four inches long. 

8. Flour a tin, put the scones on it, and bake them 
directly in the oven (the heat should rise to 240) for 
thirty to forty minutes. 

9. When the scones are half done, brush them over 
with milk. 



BUNS, BISCUITS, ROLLS, BREAD, ETC. 285 

LESSON SIXTH. 
SHORT -BEE AD. 

Ingredients. Quarter of a pound of flour. Two ounces of butter. One 
ounce of castor sugar. 

Time required, about half an hour. 

To make Short-Bread : 

1. Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and put it 
on the fire to melt. 

2. Put a quarter of a pound of flour into a basin, with 
one ounce of castor (pounded lump) sugar and the melted 
butter. 

3. Mix these ingredients well together. 

4. Flour a board and turn the paste on to it. 

5. Flour your hands, and knead the paste well. 

6. Flour a rolling-pin, and roll out the paste to about 
one-third of an inch in thickness. 

7. Flour a knife, and cut the paste into oval shapes. 

8. Grease a baking-tin with dripping or butter. 

9. Put the short-bread on the tin, and put it in the 
oven (the heat should rise to 240) to bake till a pale-brown. 

IESSON SEVENTH. 
MILK-ROLLS. 

Ingredients. One pound of self-raising flour. Two ounces of butter. Milk. 
Time required, about half an hour. 

To make Milk-Rolls : 

1. Put one pound of self-raising flour into a basin, 
and rub two ounces of Gutter into it with your hands. 



286 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

2. Add sufficient milk to make it into a lithe, firm 
dough. 

3. Sprinkle flour over a board, and turn the dough 
out on it. 

4. Take a knife, dip it in flour, and cut the dough into 
twelve pieces. 

N. B. Keep your hands floured, to prevent the dough from sticking 
to them. 

5. Form each piece into a small roll. 

6. Flour a baking-tin. 

7. Put these rolls on to the tin, and put the tin in the 
oven (the heat should rise to 240) to bake for twenty 
minutes. 

8. The milk-rolls will then be ready for use. 



LESSON EIGHTH. 
YORKSHIRE TEA-CAKES. 

Ingredients. Three-quarters of a pound of flour. One and one-half a 
gill of milk. One ounce of butter. One egg. Half an ounce of German 

yeast. 

Time required, ab&ut one hour and a half. 

To make Yorkshire Tea- Cakes: 

1. Put one and one-half a gill of milk into a small 
saucepan, and put it on the fire. 

2. Put half an ounce of German yeast into a basin ; 
and when the milk is just warm, pour it on to the yeast. 

3. Put three-quarters of a pound of flour into a large 
basin, and rub into it one ounce of butter. 

4. Beat up one egg in a cup, and then add it to the 
flour. 



BUNS, BISCUITS, ROLLS, BREAD, ETC. 287 

5. Now pour the yeast and milk through a strainer into 
the basin, and mix all well together with a wooden spoon. 

6. Flour a board and turn the dough out on it. 

7. Flour your hands, and knead the dough for a min- 
ute or two. 

8. Take a knife, dip it in flour, and divide the dough 
into cakes. 

9. Take some cake-tins (as many as are required) and 
grease them inside with dripping. 

10. Put the cakes into the tins. 

N. B. The tins should be only three-quarters full, so as to allow for 
the cakes to rise. 

11. Stand the tins near the fire, and allow the cakes to 
rise for one hour. 

12. After that time, put the tins into the oven (the heat 
should rise to 240) to bake for a quarter of an hour. 

13. Then turn the cakes out of the tins and place them 
on a sieve, or on the cane-seat of a chair, to cool. 

N. B. This will prevent their getting heavy. 



LESSON NINTH. 
BREAD. 

Ingredients. Three and one-half pounds of flour. One ounce of German 
yeast. Half a salt-spoonful of salt. 

Time required, quarter of an hour for making, two or three hours for rising, 
and one hour and a half for baking. 

To make Bread : 

1. Take three and a half pounds of seconds flour, put 
three pounds of it into a large pan, and make a hole in 
the centre of the flour. 

N. B. Half a pound is reserved, with which to work up the bread. 



288 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

2. Put one ounce of German yeast into a basin. 

3. Add about a gill of tepid water, and stir the yeast 
into a stiff paste. 

4. Then fill the basin with lukewarm water, and stir 
the yeast smoothly, making in all about one pint and three 
gills. 

5. Add to the flour half a teaspoonful of salt, and 
then by degrees pour in the yeast, mixing the flour 
lightly into a dough with your hands. 

6. Add more lukewarm water, if the dough is too stiff. 

N. B. Be sure to mix up all the flour into dough. 

7. Sprinkle about a tablespoonful of dry flour over the 
dough, and cover the pan with a cloth. 

8. Place the pan near the fire for at least two hours, 
to let the dough rise. 

9. When it has risen sufficiently, take up the pan and 
work in more flour, if necessary, to make the dough stiff 
enough to turn out of the pan. 

N. B. Keep your hands well floured all through the process of bread- 
making. 

10. Turn the dough out on a well-floured board, and 
knead it well, using up a good deal more flour. 

11. Divide the dough into six equal pieces, knead each 
piece separately, and make it into a loaf. 

N. B. If the bread is to be baked in tins, form each loaf into a 
dumpling or ball (with a smooth surface, and no cracks in it), 
either long or round, according to the shape of the tin. 

12. Put the bread into the tins, which should be well 
floured. 

13. Cut a slit in the top of the dough, or prick it with 
a fork. 



BUNS, BISCUITS, ROLLS, BREAD, ETC. 289 

N. B. If the bread is to be made into cottage loaves : 

14. Divide each piece into two, one rather larger than 
the other. 

15. Make each into a ball, put the smaller one on the 
top of the other, and press your forefinger into the middle 
of the top. 

N. B. Cottage loaves are baked on floured tins. 

N. B. If there are no tins, the oven-shelf should be washed and 
floured, and then a tin is not necessary. 

16. Let the loaves rise half an hour in a warm place, 
before putting them into the oven. 

17. Then put them into the oven (the heat should rise to 
280, and after a quarter of an hour be reduced to 220) 
for about one hour and a half. 

N. B. To test if the bread is sufficiently baked, run a clean knife into 
the loaves ; and if it comes out perfectly bright, the bread is done. 

18. When you take the bread out of the oven, stand 
each loaf up on its side to cool. 



LESSON TENTH. 

UNFEKMENTED BREAD. 

Ingredients. One pound of flour. One teaspoonful of baking-powder. Salt. 
Time required, about three-quarters of an hour. 

To make Unfermented Bread : 

1. Put one pound of flour into a basin, and mix into it 
one teaspoonful of baking-powder and half a salt-spoonful 
of salt. 

2. Add sufficient water to make it into a light, firm 
dough (not too stiff). 

N. B. It will take about half a pint of water. 



290 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

3. Sprinkle flour over a board, and turn the dough out 
on it. 

N. B. Keep your hands floured, to prevent the dough from sticking 
to them. 

4. Knead it with jour hands, and make it up quickly 
into small loaves. 

N. B. Small loaves do better than large ones for unfermented bread ; 
and the quicker the bread is made and put into the oven, the better. 

5. Put the loaves on a floured baking-sheet, and put 
them in the oven (the heat should rise to 240) to bake 
for half an hour. 

N. B. To see if bread is sufficiently baked, run a clean knife into it ; 
and if it comes out bright and untarnished, the bread is done. 

6. Take the bread out of the oven, and stand each loaf 
on its side to cool. 



CHAPTER XXII. 
SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 

LESSON FIRST. 
CHICKEN PANADA. 

Ingredients. Half a chicken. A tablespoonful of cream. 
Time required, about four hours. 

To make Chicken Pcmada : 

1. Take a chicken and clean it in the same way as in 
" Eoasting a Fowl " (see " Trussing a Fowl for Koasting "). 

2. Cut the chicken in half, dividing it down the mid- 
dle of the back with a sharp knife. 

3. Take all the flesh off the bones of half the chicken, 
and cut it into small pieces with a sharp knife. 

4. Put the pieces of chicken into a gallipot, and sprin- 
kle over them half a salt-spoonful of salt. 

5. Take a piece of paper and tie it over the top of the 
gallipot. 

6. Take a saucepan half full of boiling water and put 
it on the fire. 

7. Stand the gallipot in the saucepan, and let it sim- 
mer for two hours. The water must not cover the gallipot. 

8. After that time, take the gallipot out of the saucepan. 



292 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

9. Take the pieces of chicken out with a spoon, and 
be careful not to lose any of the liquor. 

10. Take the pieces of chicken and put them into a 
mortar, and pound them well to a pulp. 

11. Take a tammy-sieve and stand it over a basin. 

12. Pass the pounded chicken through the sieve, rubbing 
it with a wooden spoon. Pour a little of the chicken- 
liquor into the pulp on the sieve, to make it pass through 
more easily. 

13. When all the chicken-pulp has been passed through 
into the basin, stir in one tablespoonful of cream. 

Use the bones for Chicken Broth : 

1. Take the chicken-bones and put them in a saucepan 
with one pint of cold water. 

2. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let it boil for 
three hours. 

3. Watch it, and skim it occasionally. 

4. When required for use, take a strainer and strain 
the chicken broth into a basin. 

5. Flavor it with pepper and salt, according to the 
taste of the patient. 

N. B. Some of this broth is required to help to pass the chicken 
through the sieve. 

LESSON SECOND. 
BEEF ESSENCE. 

Ingredients. One pound of gravy-beef. 
Time required, about two hours. 

To make Beef Essence : 

1. Take one pound of grcwy-leef, and cut off all fat 
and gristle with a sharp knife. 



SICK-ROOM COOKERY. . 293 

2. Cut the lean up into small pieces, and put them 
into a jar. 

3. Put the cover over the jar, and tie a piece of paper 
over it. 

4. Take a saucepan half full of foiling water and 
stand it on the fire. 

5. Stand the jar in the saucepan of boiling water, to 
steam for two hours. The water must not cover the jar. 

6. When it is done, take a strainer and put it over a 
basin. 

7. Strain off the liquor into the basin, and flavor it 
with pepper and salt, according to the patient's complaint. 

N. B. The meat can be put aside, and used again for second stock. 



LESSON TRIED. 
CREAM OF BARLEY. 

Ingredients. Half a pound of veal cutlet. Half an ounce of barley. 
Half a gill of cream. 

Time required, about four hours. 

To make Cream of Barley : 

1. Take half a pound of veal cutlet, and cut off all the 
fat with a sharp knife. 

2. Cut the lean into small pieces, and put it in a 
saucepan with one pint of cold water. 

3. Add half an ounce of barley, previously well washed 
and soaked an hour or two in cold water, and half a salt- 
spoonful of salt. 

4. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let it boil for two 
hours. 

5. Strain off the liquor into a basin, and put the meat 
and barley in a mortar, and pound them together. 



294: LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

6. Take a hair sieve and put it over a basin. 

7. Turn the pounded meat and barley on to the sieve, 
and rub them through with a wooden spoon. 

8. Pour the liquor on to the sieve, to help the pulp to 
pass through. 

9. When it has all passed through the sieve into the 
basin, stir in smoothly two tablespoonfuls of cream. 



. LESSON FOURTH. 
A CUP OF ARROW-BOOT, AND ARROW-ROOT PUDDING. 

Ingredients. A dessertspoonful of arrow-root. Half a pint of milk. 
Powdered sugar. Two eggs. 

Time required, about a quarter of an hour. 

To make a Cup of Arrow-root : 

1. Take a dessertspoonful of arrow-root and put it 
into a small basin. 

2. Add a dessertspoonful of cold milk, and stir it 
smoothly into & paste with a spoon. 

3. Add a small teaspoonful of powdered sugar ^ accord- 
ing to taste. 

4. Take a small saucepan and put in it half a pint of 
cold milk. 

5. Put the saucepan on the fire, and watch the milk 
carefully until it boils. 

6. When it is quite boiling, pour it on to the arrow- 
root paste, stirring all the time to get it quite smooth. 

N. B. If the patient prefers an Arrow-root Pudding : 

7. Add to the mixture described above the yolks of 
two eggs, whipping it all well together. 

N. B. The eggs should not be added till the mixture has cooled a 
little, for they would curdle. 



SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 295 

8. Put the whites of the same eggs into another basin, 
and whisk them to a stiff froth. 

9. Add the whites of the eggs to the arrow-root mix- 
ture, stirring them lightly together. 

10. Pour the mixture into a buttered dish, and put it 
into the oven (the heat should rise to 240) to bake for ten 
'minutes. 



LESSON FIFTH. 
RICE-WATER . 

Ingredients. Three ounces of rice. One inch of cinnamon-stick. Sugar. 
Time required, about one hour. 

To make Rice - Water : 

1. Take three ounces of rice and wash it well in two or 
three waters. 

2. Take a stewpan with one quart of warm water. 

3. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil. 

4. When the water is quite boiling, put in the rice, 
and one inch of the stick of cinnamon, and let it boil for 
one hour, until the rice has become a pulp. 

5. Then take the stewpan off the fire and strain the 
rice-water into a basin, and sweeten it according to taste. 

N. B. When cold, it is ready for use. 



U 



296 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON SIXTH. 
BARLEY-WATER. 

Ingredients. Two ounces of pearl barley. The rind of a quarter of a 
lemon. Two lumps of loaf sugar. 

Ingredients (for making Thick Barley- Water). Two ounces of pearl bar- 
ley. The rind of half a lemon. Sugar. 

Time required, about two hours. 

To make two kinds of Barley -Water Clear Barley 
Water and Thick Barley - Water. 

For half a pint of Clear Barley - Water : 

1. Take two ounces of pearl Parley and wash it well in 
two or three waters. 

2. Put a kettle of water on the fire to boil. 

3. Take a quarter of a lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, 
and peel it very thin. 

N. B. Be careful, in peeling the lemon, not to cut any of the white 
skin, as it would make it bitter. 

4. Put the washed barley into a jug. 

5. Put in the lemon-peel, and two lumps of loaf sugar. 

6. When the water in the kettle is quite boiling, pour 
one pint of it on to the barley in the jug. 

7. Cover over the top of the jug, and let it stand on 
ice, or in a cool place, until it is perfectly cold. 

8. Then strain the water into a clean jug for use. 

N. B. The barley can be used again, with the addition of one ounce 
of fresh. 

For one pint of Thick Barley - Water : 
1. Take two ounces of pearl barley and wash it well in 
two or three waters. 



SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 297 

2. Put the barley into a stewpan, with one quart of 
cold water. 

3. Put the stewpan on the fire, and let it boil gently 
for two hours. 

4. Take half a lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and 
peel it very thin. 

5. Put the lemon-peel into a jug. 

6. When the barley-water is sufficiently boiled, strain 
it into the jug over the lemon. 

7. Put the jug into a cool place ; when it is perfectly 
cold, take out the lemon-peel, and sweeten the water ac- 
cording to taste. 

LESSON SEVENTH. 
APPLE-W ATEK. 

Ingredients. Six apples. The rind of half a lemon. Sugar. 
Time required for making, about eiylit minutes. 

To make Apple - Water : 

1. Take six apples, peel them, and cut out the cores. 

N. B. When the apples are juicy, six will be sufficient; but more 
may be required, according to the season of the year. 

2. Put a kettle of water on the fire to boil. 

3. Cut up the apples in slices. 

4. Take half a lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and 
peel it very thin. 

5. Put the slices of apple and the lemon-rind into a jug. 

6. When the water is quite boiling, pour one quart of 
it on to the apples in the jug. 

7. Sweeten it according to taste. 

8. Stand the jug of apple- water aside to cool. 

9. When the water is quite cold, strain it into an- 
other jug, and it is then ready for use. 



298 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON EIGHTH. 
LEMONADE. 

Ingredients. Two lemons. Loaf sugar. 
Time required, about one hour. 

To make Lemonade : 

1. Put a kettle of water on the fire to boil. 

2. Take two lemons, wipe them clean in a cloth, and 
peel them very thin. 

N. B. Be careful, in cutting the lemons, not to cut any of the pith, 
or white skin, as it would make the lemonade bitter. 

3. Now cut off all the pith. 

4. Cut up the lemons into thin slices, take out all the 
pips, and put the slices and half the rind of the lemons 
into a jug. 

5. Add loaf sugar according to taste about one ounce. 

6. When the water is quite boiling, pour one pint and 
a half on to the lemons in the jug. 

7. Cover over the jug, and stand it aside to cool. 

8. When the lemonade is quite cold, strain it into an- 
other jug, and it is then ready for use. 



LESSON NINTH. 
TOAST AND WATEE. 

Ingredients. One crust of bread. One quart of water. 
Time required, half an hour. 

To make Toast and Water : 

1. Take a crust of bread and toast it quite brown on 
all sides, in front of the fire. 

N. B. Crumb should not be used, as it would turn sour. 



SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 299 

2. Put the toasted crust of bread into a jug, and pour 
on it one quart of cold water. 

3. Cover the jug with a cloth, and stand it aside for 
half an hour. 

N. B. This is a pleasant drink, and considered more refreshing than 
when made with boiling water. 



LESSON TENTH. 
GKUEL. 

Ingredients. Two dessertspoonfuls of patent groats. Sugar. A small 
piece of fresh butter. Half a gill of rum. 

Time required, about fifteen minutes. 

To make Gruel : 

1. Put a stewpan with one pint of water on the fire 
to boil. 

2. Take two dessertspoonfuls of patent groats and put 
them in a basin. 

3. Add, by degrees, two tablespoonfuls of cold water 
to the groats, and stir it into a smooth paste. 

4. When the water in the stewpan is quite boiling, 
pour in the mixed gruel and stir it well with a wooden 
spoon, until it has boiled for ten minutes (it must not be 
lumpy) ; then pour it into a basin, and it is ready for use. 

N. B. If the gruel is required for a cold : 

5. Stir in a piece of fresh butter the size of a chestnut, 
and sweeten it according to taste. 

6. Also add two tablespoonfuls of rum. 

N. B. If the patient is feverish, spirits should not be added. 



300 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON ELEVENTH. 
WHITE-WINE WHEY, OR TREACLE POSSET. 

Ingredients (for White-Wine Whey). Half a pint of milk. Four lumps 
of sugar. One wineglassful of wine. 

Ingredients (for Treacle Posset). Half a pint of milk. Half a gill of 
treacle. 

Time required, about ten minutes. 

To make White -Wine Whey: 

1. Put half a pint of milk into a saucepan, and four 
lumps of sugar. 

2. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil. 

3. When it boils, pour in a wineglassful of wine 
(sherry or cowslip, according to taste). 

N. B. If the milk is not quite boiling, the wine will not curdle it. 

4. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it 
stand for about one minute. 

5. Then strain the whey into a glass. 

N. B. The curds are not digestible. 

N. B. Treacle Posset is made in the same way, except that no sugar 
should be added to the milk, and the same quantity of treacle is 
used instead of wine. 



LESSON TWELFTH. 
BRAN TEA. 

Ingredients. Three tablespoonfuls of bran. Sugar or honey. 
Time required, about twenty minutes. 

To make Bran Tea : 

1. Put a kettle of warm water on the fire to boil. 



SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 301 

2. Take three tablespoonfuls of Iran (not too coarse, 
for that is greasy) and put it into a large jug. 

N. B. Bran is the husk of the grain, which is sifted from the flour 
after the wheat is ground by the miller. 

3. When the water is quite boiling, pour one quart 
into the jug. 

4. Cover the jug, and let it stand for a quarter of an 
hour to draw. 

5. When it is drawn, strain off the tea through a piece 
of muslin, and sweeten it according to taste with either 
sugar or honey. 

N. B. When wine is good for the patient, it may be added to the tea, 
or a little lemon-juice, but it is very good without. 

N. B. This is an invaluable drink for softening the throat. 



LESSON THIRTEENTH. 
MUTTON BEOTH. 

Ingredients* Four pounds of the scrag end of the neck of mutton. Two 
knuckles from the legs of mutton. A salt-spoonful of salt. Two ounces 
of rice. 

Time required for making : The stock should be made the day before, and then 
the broth, can be finished in about half an hour. 

To make two quarts of Mutton Broth : 

1. Take four pounds of the scrag end of the neck of 
mutton, wash it well, put it on a board, cut away all the 
fat, and chop it up in large pieces. 

2. Put these pieces into the stewpan, with two knuckle- 
bones from the legs of mutton. 

3. Pour in five pints of cold water, and add a salt- 
spoonful of salt. 



302 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

4. Put the stewpan on the fire, just bring it to the 
"boil, and then let it simmer for four hours. 

5. Watch it, and skim it very often. 

6. After that time, strain the stock into a basin, and 
put it aside until it is quite cold and in a stiff jelly. 

7. Then take the stock and remove all the fat from the 
top with a spoon. 

8. Take a clean cloth and dip it in hot water, and dab 
over the top of the stock so as to remove every particle of 
grease. 

9. Now take a clean dry cloth and wipe the top of the 
stock dry. 

10. Take two ounces of rice and wash it well in two or 
three waters. 

11. Put the stock into a stewpan. 

12. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil. 

13. When the stock is quite boiling, stir in the rice, and 
let it boil for twenty-five minutes, to cook the rice. 

N. B. See that the rice is quite tender. 

14. Season it with pepper and salt, according to the 
patient's complaint. 

15. For serving, pour the broth into a basin. 

N. B. The bones should be put in the stock-pot. 



SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 303 

IESSON FOURTEENTH. 
MUTTON BKOTH. 

Ingredients. Two pounds of the scrag end of the neck of mutton. One 
ounce of pearl barley or rice. Half a salt-spoonful of salt. Half an 
ounce of butter. Half an ounce of flour. Two sprigs of parsley. 

Time required, about two hours and forty minutes. 

To make Mutton Broth : 

1. Take two pounds of the scrag end of the neck of 
mutton and wash it well until it is quite clean. 

2. Put the meat into a large saucepan with three pints 
of cold water, and put it on the fire to boil. 

3. Take one ounce of pearl barley or rice and wash it 
well in cold water. 

4. When the water boils, put in the pearl larley or 
rice, and half a salt-spoonful of salt, to help the scum to 
rise. 

5. Now draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and 
let it simmer gently for two hours and a half . 

6. Watch it, and skim it occasionally with a spoon. 

7. If the meat is required for immediate use, make 
sauce to pour over it. 

8. Take a sprig or two of parsley, wash it and clean it 
in a cloth, put it on a board, and chop it up fine with a 
knife. 

9. Put half an ounce of butter into a saucepan, and 
put it on the fire. 

10. When the butter is melted, stir in smoothly half an 
ounce of flour with a wooden spoon. 

11. Take one gill of broth from the mutton, pour it on 
to the butter and flour, and stir smoothly until it boils 
and thickens. 



304: LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

12. Now add the chopped parsley to the sauce, and 
move the saucepan to the side of the fire, to keep warm 
till required for use. 

13. When the mutton is sufficiently cooked:, take out 
the meat and put it on a hot dish. 

14. Pour the parsley-sauce all over the mutton. 

15. Pour the broth into a basin to cool. 

16. When it is cold, remove all the fat before warming 
it up for use. 

N. B. If the broth is required for immediate use, remove the grease 
with blotting-paper or whity-brown paper. 



LESSON FIFTEENTH. 
BEEF TEA. 

Ingredients. One pound of gravy-beef. 
Time required, about six hours. 

To make Beef Tea : 

1. Take one pound of gravy-beef, put it on a board, 
and cut it up very fine, removing all the skin and fat. 

2. Put the meat into a saucepan, with one pint and a 
half of cold water, half a salt-spoonful of salt, and two or 
three pepper-corns, if allowed. 

3. Put the saucepan on the fire, and just bring it to 
the boil. 

4. Then move it to the side of the fire to simmer 
gently for five or six hours, but do not let it reduce too 
much. 

N. B. The lid should be on the saucepan. 

5. After that time, pour off the beef tea, or strain it 
through a coarse cloth into a basin, and let it get cold. 



SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 305 

6. Eemove all fat from the beef tea before warming it 
up for use. 

N.B. Fat can be taken off hot beef tea with blotting-paper or 
whity-brown paper. 

N. B. It is better not to strain beef tea, as it removes all the little 
brown particles, which are most nutritious. 



LESSON SIXTEENTH. 
BEEF TEA. 

Ingredients. Half a pound of gravy-beef. 
Time required, about three hours and a quarter. 

To make Beef Tea : 

1. Take half a pound of gravy-beef, put it on a board, 
and cut it up very fine, removing all the skin and fat. 

2. Put the meat into a stone jar with half a pint of 
water. 

N. B. In making this beef tea, the quantity of meat and water should 
be of equal weight i. e., one pint to the pound. 

3. Put the lid on the jar, and tie a piece of paper 
over it. 

4. Stand the jar in a saucepan of boiling water on the 
hob for three hours, or in the oven for one hour and a 
half. 

N. B. If the jar is put into the saucepan of boiling water, you should 
be careful that the water does not cover the jar, or it would get 
inside. 

5. After a time, take out the jar and pour off the beef 
tea into a cup. 

N. B. If allowed, add salt according to taste. 



306 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON SEVENTEENTH. 
LIEBIG'S QUICK BEEF TEA. 

Ingredients. Half a pound of gravy-beef. 
Time required, about a quarter of an hour. 

To make Baron Liebig's Quick Beef Tea : 

1. Take half a pound of gravy-beef, put it on a board, 
and cut it up very fine, removing all the skin and fat. 

2. Put it into a saucepan with its equal weight in 
water i. e., half a pint. 

3. Put the saucepan on the fire and bring it quickly to 
the boil. 

4. Let it boil for five minutes, and then pour it off 
into a cup. 

LESSON EIGHTEENTH, 
SAVORY CUSTARD. 

Ingredients. Two eggs. Salt. One gill of beef tea. 
Time required, about twenty minutes. 

To make Savory Custard: 

1. Take the yolks of two eggs and the white of one, 
and put them in a small basin. 

2. Add one gill of beef tea and a quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of salt. 

3. Whisk up the eggs and the beef tea well together. 

4. Take a small gallipot and butter it inside. 

5. Pour the mixture into the gallipot. 

6. Take a piece of whity-brown paper and butter it. 

7. Put this buttered paper over the top of the gallipot, 
and tie it on with a piece of string. 



SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 307 

8. Take a saucepan of hot water and put it on the fire. 

9. When the water is quite boiling, stand the little 
gallipot in it. 

N.B. The water must not quite reach the paper with which the 
gallipot is covered. 

10. Draw this saucepan to the side of the fire, and let 
it simmer for a quarter of an hour. 

N. B. It must not boil, or the custard will be spoiled. 

11. Take the gallipot out of the saucepan, take off the 
buttered paper, and the custard is ready for serving. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 
CANNED MEATS. 



NOTE. In the English edition of this work, the present chapter appeared 
under the title of "Australian Meat," which consists of cooked and canned 
meats that are brought into England in large variety, and are coming into 
such general use there that it was found desirable to give them some atten- 
tion at the training-school. " Australian Meat," however, is not to be ob- 
tained in the American market ; but as we have its equivalent in the canned 
meats put up in this country, the title of the chapter has been changed, to 
prevent misapprehension and inconvenience. 

The directions in the following lessons are not so much for cooking canned 
meats which are indeed already cooked as for using them as ingredients of 
various complex dishes, such as soups, stews, curries, fricassees, and hashes, 
and for these purposes the American canned preparations answer just as well 
as the Australian. For such uses canned meats deserve more attention than 
they generally receive. 1 Everybody now understands the value of having 
fruits and vegetables such as peaches, cherries, pears, tomatoes, corn, beans, 
peas, and asparagus ready at hand, as they not only give an agreeable and 
healthy variety to diet, but are easily and quickly prepared, and thus save 
labor and trouble to the house-keeper. The advantages are the same with 
canned meats, especially in the country, where markets are not near by. 
And even in competition with butcher's meat, canned beef and mutton do not 
make a bad showing in point of economy ; for when beef and mutton are 
procured from the market, there is not only a loss by the removal of bone, 
fat, and gristle, but also a loss of weight in the operation of cooking, so that 
the meat upon the table should properly be estimated at nearly double the 
market-price. As the canned meats consist of the pure muscular fibres, with 

1 Tet their use is rapidly extending. "We were informed by Mr. Alexander Wiley, the 
intelligent superintendent of the department of " canned goods " in the establishment of 
H. K. & F. B. Thurber, of New York, that this trade has doubled in a comparatively short 
time, while the saving to the country through this preservation of perishable food -prod- 
ucts is probably not less than fifty million dollars annually. 



CANNED MEATS. 309 

their contained nutritive juices, these sources of loss are avoided ; and while 
the expense is no greater, the trouble of preparation is saved. 

In purchasing canned meats, much depends upon the character of the 
articles, and the buyer will consult his interest by purchasing only well-known 
brands. Among these are Thurber & Co., Wilson, Libby, Underwood, and 
Richardson & Bobbins. Almost everything in the way of meat is to be had 
thus preserved, but different establishments confine themselves more or less 
to special preparations. As an example of the variety of animal products 
that are furnished in this manner, the following are selected from Thurber's 
Price-List of June 6, 1878: Corned beef, beef tongue, mutton, ham, lamb's 
tongue, pig's feet, tripe, sausage, pork and beans, turkey, duck, chicken, 
clams, clam broth, lobster, oysters, green turtle, salmon, shrimps, codfish- 
balls, julienne, mock-turtle and ox-tail soups, condensed milk. Most of 
these articles are, moreover, prepared in a variety of forms. EDITOR. 



LESSON FIRST. 
MULLIGATAWNY. 

Ingredients. Two-pound tin of canned calf's-head. Two pounds of 
canned mutton or chicken. Two apples. Two leeks. Two carrots. One 
turnip. Two good-sized onions. Two tablespoonfuls of flour. One table- 
spoonful of curry-powder. Salt and sugar. A bunch of herbs. 

Time required, three hours. 

To make Mulligatawny Soup : 

1. Take two pounds of canned mutton or chicken out 
of the tin ; put it in a basin with two quarts of warm 
water. 

2. Peel two apples, and put them on a plate. 

3. Cut the apples in quarters, cut out the core, and then 
cut the quarters into slices, and put them into a saucepan 
with two ounces of the clarified fat. 

4. Take one turnip and two good-sized onions, peel 
them, cut them in pieces, and put them in the saucepan. 

5. Put the saucepan on the fire, and give one stir to 
the vegetables with a wooden spoon. 



310 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

6. Take two leeks, wash them well in cold water, and 
cut off the green tops of the leaves. 

7. Cut up the leeks and put them in the saucepan. 

8. Take two carrots, wash them, scrape them with a 
knife, cut them in pieces, and put them in the saucepan. 

9. Give one stir with a wooden spoon, to mix the vege- 
tables together, and let them fry for ten minutes. 

10. Also add a sprig of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a 
sprig of marjoram, and two lay-leaves, tied tightly together 
with a piece of string. 

11. "When the vegetables have fried for ten minutes, take 
half a pint of the liquor (in which the meat is soaking), 
pour it into the saucepan, and let it boil and reduce to a 
quarter of a pint. 

12. Stir the vegetables occasionally. 

13. Put two tdblespoonfuls of flour and one tablespoonful 
of curry-powder into a basin, and mix them into a smooth 
paste with one gill of the liquor. 

14. Stir this mixture into the saucepan with the vegetables. 

15. Now put the meat or fowl and the remaining liquor 
into the saucepan, put the lid on, and let it come to the boil. 

16. When it boils, put one salt-spoonful of salt and half 
a salt-spoonful of moist sugar into the saucepan. 

17. Now move the saucepan to the side of the fire and 
let it simmer for two hours and a half. 

18. Watch it, and skim it occasionally with a spoon. 

19. After that time strain off the soup through a strainer 
into a basin. 

20. Pour the soup back into the saucepan. 

21. Open the two-pound tin of calf's-head, remove all 
the fat from the top, and stir the contents of the tin into 
the soup in the saucepan. 

22. For serving, pour the soup into a hot soup-tureen. 



CANNED MEATS. 311 

LESSON SECOND. 
BROWN PUKEE. 

Ingredients. One pound of canned mince-meat. Two carrots and a 
small turnip. Two leeks. Two sticks of celery. One onion stuck with 
four cloves. A bouquet garni (two bay-leaves, thyme, and marjoram). A 
sprig of parsley. One teaspoonful of Liebig's Extract. 

Time required, about two hours. 

To make Brown Puree : 

1. Open a tin of canned mince-meat, and put the meat 
in a mortar. 

2. Pound the meat well with a pestle. 

3. Put two quarts of water into a saucepan and put it 
on the fire to boil. 

4. "Wash two carrots and scrape them with a knife. 

5. Cut off the outside green leaves of two leeks, wash 
them thoroughly in cold water, and cut them in quarters. 

6. Take two sticks of celery, wash them, and scrape 
them clean with a knife. 

7. Tie these vegetables into a small bundle with a string. 

8. Take one small turnip and peel it. 

9. Take an onion, peel it, and stick four cloves in it. 

10. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, put 
in all these vegetables. 

11. Add a bouquet garni, consisting of two bay-leaves 
and a sprig of thyme and marjoram, tied tightly together. 

12. Take a sprig of parsley, wash it in cold water, wring 
it in a cloth, and put it in the saucepan. 

13. Take the jelly which came from the meat, and a 
little more out of the tin, and put it in the saucepan. 

14. Stir in one teaspoonful of Liebig^s Extract, or ten 
or twelve drops of caramel (see note below), for coloring. 



312 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

15. Let the vegetables boil gently for an hour and a half. 

N. B. The lid should be on the saucepan. 

16. After that time stir in the pounded meat, and season 
according to taste. 

17. Take a colander and strain the puree through on to 
a hot dish. 

N. B. To make caramel (browned sugar) for coloring gravies, etc. : Put 
a quarter of a pound of moist or loaf sugar into an old saucepan, 
and put it on the fire and let it burn until it has become quite a 
dark-brown liquid ; add to it half a pint of boiling water, and let it 
boil for five minutes, stirring it occasionally ; then strain it and pour 
it into a bottle, and it is ready for use at any time. 



LESSON THIRD. 
IKISH STEW. 

Ingredients. One and a half pound of canned meat. One and a half 

pound of potatoes. Half a pound of onions. 
Time required, about one hour. 

To make an Irish Stew : 

1. Wash one and a half pound of potatoes well in cold 
water, and scrub them clean with a scrubbing-brush. 

N. B. If the potatoes are not very good, or are in any way diseased, 
take a sharp knife, peel them, and cut out the eyes and any black 
specks about them ; but it is much better to steam or boil them in 
their skins. 

2. Fill a saucepan with hot water and put it on the fire 
to boil. 

3. Peel half a pound of onions. 

4. When the water is quite boiling, put the potatoes in 
a steamer and sprinkle them over with salt. 

N. B. As the onions are to be eaten with the potatoes, put them in 
the saucepan of boiling water, and they can be boiled while the 
potatoes are being steamed. 



CANNED MEATS. 313 

5. Place the steamer on the saucepan of boiling water, 
and cover it down tight to keep the steam in. 

6. Let the potatoes steam and the onions boil for half 
an hour. 

7. Now open a tin of canned meat. 

8. Take one and a half pound of meat out of the tin 
and cut it in slices. 

9. Take a fork and put it in the potatoes and the onions, 
to feel if they are quite tender. 

10. When they are sufficiently cooked, take the potatoes 
out of the steamer, put them on a board, peel them care- 
fully, and cut them in slices. 

11. Take the onions out of the saucepan, put them on a 
board, and cut them in slices. 

12. Take a large saucepan, put in a layer of potatoes, 
then a layer of onions, and then a layer of meat. 

13. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over each layer of 
meat for seasoning. 

14. Pour half a pint of warm water into the saucepan, 
put it on the fire, and let the meat and vegetables simmer 
until they are thoroughly warmed through. 

15. For serving, turn the Irish stew out on to a hot dish. 



LESSON FOURTH. 
SAUSAGE KOLLS. 

Ingredients. Half a pound of mince-meat. Half a pound of flour. Half 
a pound of dripping. One teaspoonful of baking-powder. Salt and pepper. 
Four sage-leaves. One egg. 

Time required, half an hour. 

To make Sausage Rolls : 

1. Take a tin of canned mince-meat and open it carefully. 



314 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

2. Take half a pound of the mince-meat out of the 
tin, put it in a basin, and season it well with pepper and 
salt. 

3. Take four sage-leaves, put them on a board, and 
chop them up as finely as possible with a knife. 

4. Mix the chopped sage well into the mince-meat with 
a spoon. 

5. Put one pound of flour into another basin. 

6. Add to it one teaspoonful of Coking-powder , a pinch 
of salt, and half a pound of clarified dripping. 

7. Kub the dripping well into the flour with your 
hands. 

N. B. Mix it thoroughly, and be careful not to leave any lumps. 

8. Add enough water to the flour to make it into a 
stiff paste. 

9. Flour the paste-board and turn the paste out on it. 

N. B. Divide the paste in two, so as not to handle it too much. 

10. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out each portion 
into a thin sheet, about one-eighth of an inch in thickness. 

11. Cut ih.Q paste into pieces about six inches square. 

12. Collect all the scraps of paste (so that none will be 
wasted), fold them together, and roll them out and cut 
them into squares. 

N. B. There should be about two dozen squares of paste. 

13. Put about a tablespoonful of the mince-meat into the 
centre of each square of paste. 

14. Fold the paste round the meat, joining it smoothly 
down the centre, and pressing the ends of the paste together 
with your finger and thumb. 

15. Take a baking-tin, grease it well, and place the sau- 
sage rolls on it. 



CANNED MEAT. 315 

16. Break one egg on to a plate, and beat it slightly with 
a knife. 

17. Take a paste-brush, dip it in the egg, and paint over 
the tops of the rolls. 

18. Place the tin in a hot oven to bake for fifteen min- 
utes. 

N. B. Look at them once or twice, and turn them if necessary, so that 
they shall be equally baked. 

19. For serving, take the rolls off the tin and place 
them on a hot dish. 



LESSON FIFTH. 
CURRIED RABBIT. 

Ingredients. Two-pound tin of canned rabbit. Two ounces of butter 
or dripping. Two moderate-sized onions. One good-sized apple. One 
dessertspoonful of curry-powder. Salt and flour. Rice served with the 
curry. 

Time required, half an hour. 

To make a Curry of Canned Babbit or Chicken : 

1. Take a two-pound tin of rabbit and open it care- 
fully. 

N. B. Chicken or any other meat can be used for the curry instead of 
rabbit. 

2. Put two ounces of butter or clarified fat into a stew- 
pan. 

3. Put the stewpan on the fire to heat the fat. 

4. Peel two medium-sized onions and cut them in slices. 

5. When the fat is quite hot, put in the onions to fry 
brown. 

N. B. Watch it, and stir the onions occasionally, so as not to let 
them burn, or stick to the bottom of the pan. 



316 LESSOXS IN COOKERY. 

6. Turn the rabbit out of the tin on to a plate. 

7. Take a good-sized apple, peel it, take out the core, 
and chop it up as finely as possible. 

8. "When the onions are sufficiently browned, take all 
the pieces carefully out of the stewpan with a perforated 
spoon, and put them on a plate. 

9. Take the pieces of rabbit, dry them in a cloth, and 
sprinkle them over well with flour. 

10. Now put the pieces of rabbit into the stewpan to fry 
a nice brown. 

11. Turn the pieces occasionally so as to let them brown 
on both sides alike. 

12. Put a dessertspoonful of curry-powder into a cup, 
and mix it into a smooth paste with a little cold water. 

13. When the rabbit is browned, put the chopped apple 
and the fried onions into the stewpan. 

14. Stir in smoothly the curry-paste, and then add half 
a pint of cold water or stock, and salt according to taste. 

15. Give one stir with a spoon, and mix it all together. 

16. ISTow put the lid on the stewpan, draw it rather to 
the side of the fire, and let it stew very gently for about 
a quarter of an hour, until the apple is quite tender. 

17. Boil the rice as directed. (See Lesson on " Rice.") 

18. For serving, turn the curry on to a hot dish. The 
rice can be put as a border on the same dish as the curry, 
or served on a separate dish. 



CANNED MEATS. 317 



LESSON SIXTH. 
MEAT PIE. 

Ingredients. One and a half pound of canned mutton or beef. Half a 
pound of canned kidneys. Three-quarters of a pound of flour. One- 
quarter of a pound of dripping. One teaspoonful of baking-powder. 
Pepper and salt. 

Time required, about three-quarters of an hour. 

To make Meat Pie : 

1. Open a tin of canned mutton or ~beef. 

2. Take one and a half pound of the meat out of the 
tin and cut it neatly into nice-sized pieces, and season 
with pepper and salt. 

3. Take half a pound of the kidneys and cut them up 
in pieces. 

4. Put three-quarters of a pound of flour into a basin 
with a small teaspoonful of laking-powder and a pinch of 
salt. 

5. Take a quarter of a pound of clarified dripping 
and rub it well into the flour with your hands. 

N. B. Be careful not to leave any lumps. 

6. Add sufficient water to make it into a stiff paste; 
it will take rather less than one gill. 

7. Take a board, flour it, and put the paste on it. 

8. Take a quart pie-dish and fill it with the pieces of 
meat and kidney. 

9. Take a little of the jelly out of the tin and put it in 
the dish with the meat, to make the gravy. 

10. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out the paste to 
the shape of the top of the pie- dish, only rather larger. 

N. B. Keep your hands floured, to prevent the paste sticking. 



318 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

11. Take a knife, dip it in the flour, and cut off a strip 
of the paste about one inch wide. 

N. B. This strip should be cut off from round the edge of the paste, 
leaving the centre piece the size of the top of the pie-dish. 

12. Wet the edge of the pie-dish with water, and place 
the strip of paste round the edge. 

13. Now wet the strip of paste on the pie-dish. 

14. Take the piece of paste, lay it over the top of the 
pie-dish, pressing the edges together with your thumb. 

15. Flour a knife and trim off the rough edges of the 
paste. 

16. Take the knife, and with the back of the blade 
make little notches in the edge of the paste, pressing it 
with your thumb, to keep it in its proper place. 

17. Make a small hole in the centre of the paste, to let 
out the steam while it is baking. 

18. Ornament the top of the pie with the remains of 
the paste, according to taste. 

19. Put the pie into a quick oven to bake for half an 
hour. 

20. Look at it occasionally, to see that it does not burn. 



LESSON SEVENTH. 
FBICASSEE OF MUTTON. 

Ingredients. Two pounds of canned mutton. Two ounces of butter. One 
and a half ounce of flour. Pepper and salt. One dozen mushrooms. 
Bread. About a pint of milk. 

Time required, about half an hour. 

To make Fricassee of Mutton : 

1. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, and put it 
on the fire. 



CANNED MEATS. 319 

2. When the butter is melted, stir in one and a half 
ounce of flour, and a little pepper and salt according to 
taste. 

3. Now pour in three-quarters of a pint of cold milk, 
and stir smoothly with a wooden spoon until it boils and 
thickens. 

4. Peel one dozen mushrooms, and cut off the ends of 
the stalks. 

5. Add these mushrooms to the sauce, and let them 
stew gently until they are quite tender. 

6. Wash the peel and stalks of the mushrooms in cold 
water, and put them in a small saucepan with about a gill 
of milk. 

7. Put the saucepan on the fire and let it stew gently, 
to extract the flavor of the mushrooms. 

8. Take a two-pound tin of mutton, open it carefully, 
and remove all the fat from the top of the meat with a 
spoon. 

9. Turn the meat out of the tin and cut it in small 
pieces. 

10. Cut a thin slice of crumb of bread, put it on a 
board, and cut it up in small square pieces. 

11. Cut these square pieces in half cornerwise, making 
them into triangles. 

12. Put three ounces of clarified dripping into a frying- 
pan, and put it on the fire to heat thefat. 

13. Take a piece of kitchen-paper and put it on a plate. 

14. When the fat is quite hot and smoking, throw in 
the sippets of bread and let them fry a pale-brown. 

15. Then take them out of the frying-pan and put them 
on the piece of paper, to drain off the grease. 

16. Sprinkle a little salt over the sippets, and keep them 

warm till required for use. 
15 



320 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

17. When the mushrooms are sufficiently cooked, strain 
the milk (in which the mushroom peelings were stewed), 
and stir it smoothly into the sauce. 

18. Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and when 
the sauce is a little cooled, put in the slices of mutton and 
let them just warm through. 

N. B. Be careful that the meat does not boil, or it will be hardened. 

19. Now take out the pieces of meat and put them on a 
hot dish. 

20. Pour the sauce over the meat, and arrange the 
mushrooms in the centre. 

21. Place the fried sippets of J)read round the edge of 
the dish. 

LESSON EIGHTH. 
RISSOLES. 

Ingredients. Half a pound of canned meat. Half a pound of flour. 
Four ounces of dripping. Salt and pepper. A few sprigs of dried herbs. 
One egg. Two ounces of vermicelli, or some bread-crumbs. Clarified 
dripping (for frying). 

Time required, one hour. 

To make Rissoles of Canned Meat : 

1. Put one pound of clarified dripping in a saucepan, 
and put it on the fire to heat. 

N. B. Watch it, and be careful that it does not burn. 

2. Put ha^f a pound of flour into a basin with a pinch 
of salt andfour ounces of clarified dripping. 

3. Hub the dripping well into the flour with your 
hands, until it is quite a powder. 

4. Add a little cold water, and mix it into a stiff paste. 

5. Flour a board and turn the paste out on it. 



CANNED MEATS. 321 

6. Take a tin of canned meat, open it carefully, and 
with a spoon remove all the fat from the part of the meat 
required for immediate use. 

7. Take half a pound of meat out of the tin and scrape 
off as much of \hQJelly as possible. 

8. Put the meat on a board and chop it up as fine as 
possible. 

N. B. Minced meat might be used, which, of course, would not require 
chopping up. 

9. Take a small bunch of dried herbs and rub the 
leaves into a powder. 

N. B. The stalks of the herbs need not be thrown away, as they can 
be used in soups for flavoring. 

10. Sprinkle the herbs over the meat also a little pep- 
per and salt and a little flour. 

11. Take a rolling-pin and roll out the paste as thin as 
possible. 

12. Cut the paste into rounds with a cutter (which 
should be dipped in flour) ; the rounds should be rather 
larger than the top of a teacup. 

13. Put some meat into the centre of each round of 
paste. 

14. Break an egg on a plate and beat it up slightly 
with a knife. 

15. Take a paste-~brush, dip it in the egg, and just wet 
the edges of the paste with the egg. 

16. Fold the paste carefully over the meat, pressing the 
edges together with your thumb. 

17. Take two ounces of vermicelli and rub it between 
your hands, crushing it up as fine as possible. 

18. Put this crushed vermicelli on a piece of paper. 

19. Put the rissoles into the plate of egg, and egg them 
well all over with the brush. 



322 LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

20. Then turn them into the crushed vermicelli, and 
cover them well with it, but not too thickly. 

N. B. Be careful to finger them as little as possible, so as not to rub off 
any of the egg or vermicelli, or the rissoles will burst while frying. 
N. B. Bread-crumbs might be used instead of vermicelli. 

21. Take a frying-basket and put in the rissoles/ you 
must be careful that they do not touch each other. 

22. When the fat in the saucepan is quite hot and 
smoking, put in the frying-basket and let the rissoles fry a 
minute or two, until they become brown. 

23. Put a piece of kitchen-paper on a plate. 

24. As the rissoles are fried, turn them from the fry- 
ing-basket on to the piece of paper, to drain off the grease. 

25. Put them on a hot dish, and they are ready for 



LESSON NINTH. 
SAVORY HASH. 

Ingredients. A pound and a half of canned meat. One ounce of butter. 
Half an ounce of flour. Half an onion. A teaspoonful of vinegar. 
A dessertspoonful of chopped herbs. Pepper and salt. One dessert- 
spoonful of mushroom catchup. 

Time required, about ten minutes. 

To make a Savory Hash : 

1. Put one ounce of "butter in a saucepan, and put it 
on the fire to melt. 

2. Peel half an onion and cut it in slices. 

3. Put the onion into the butter. 

4. Stir in half an ounce of flour ^ and let all fry for a 
minute or two to brown. 

5. Take a tin of canned mutton or beef, open it care- 



CANNED MEATS. 323 

fully, and remove the fat from the part of the meat re- 
quired for immediate use. 

6. Take one and a half pound of the meat out of the 
tin. 

7. If all the meat is required for present use, turn it 
all out of the tin, and then rinse out the tin with half a 
pint of warm water, to make the gravy for the hash. 

N. B. If all the meat has not been taken out of the tin, take some of 
the jelly out of the tin, and melt it in half a pint of warm water, 
to make the gravy. 

8. Pour this gravy into the saucepan with the flour 
and butter, and stir well until it boils and thickens. 

9. Now move the saucepan to the side of the fire to 
keep warm. 

10. Take a penny's worth of mixed pickles and chop 
them up finely. 

11. Stir the chopped pickles, or a teaspoonful of vinegar, 
into the sauce. 

N. B. If the flavor of the pickles or the vinegar is disliked, they 
might be omitted. 

12. Take a sprig or two of parsley (wash it and dry it 
in a cloth) and a sprig of marjoram and t^yme, take away 
the stalks, and chop up the leaves finely on a board. 
(There should be about a dessertspoonful.) 

13. Cut up the meat into neat pieces, and sprinkle over 
each piece some of the chopped herbs and a little pepper 
and salt. 

14. Put the meat into the saucepan of sauce and let it 
just warm through for about five minutes. 

15. Now pour into the sauce a dessertspoonful of mush- 
room catchup. 

16. For serving, put the meat on a hot dish and strain 
the sauce over it. 



324: LESSONS IN COOKERY. 

LESSON TENTH. 
MINCE -MEAT. 

Ingredients* One pound of canned mince-meat. A pound and a half of 
potatoes. One ounce of butter. One gill of milk. One tablespoonf ul 
of mushroom catchup. Salt and pepper. 

Time required, about forty minutes. 

To make a Jfince served with Mashed Potatoes : 

1. Wash one and a half pound of potatoes in cold 
water, and scrub them clean with a scrubbing-brush. 

2. Peel them with a sharp knife ; cut out the eyes and 
any black specks. 

3. Put them into a saucepan of cold water enough to 
cover them and sprinkle over them one teaspoonful of 
salt. 

4. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil the potatoes for 
from twenty minutes to half an hour. 

5. Take a fork and put it into the potatoes, to feel if 
the centre is quite tender. 

6. When they are sufficiently boiled, drain off all the 
water, and stand the saucepan by the side of the fire with 
the lid half on, to steam the potatoes. 

7. Put one ounce of butter and one gill of milk into a 
small saucepan, and put it on the fire to boil. 

8. "When the potatoes have become quite dry, take the 
saucepan off the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on 
the table. 

9. Mash them up smoothly with a spoon or fork. 

N. B. The best way to mash potatoes is to rub them through a wire 
sieve ; you can then be sure there are no lumps left. 

10. When the milk boils, pour it into the mashed pota- 
toes^ and stir it till it is quite smooth. 



CANNED MEATS. 325 

11. K.^A pepper and salt according to taste. 

12. Stand the saucepan of mashed potatoes by the side 
of the fire, to keep warm until required for use. 

13. Open a can of mince-meat. 

14. Take one pound of the mince out of the tin, put it 
in a saucepan with one tablespoonful of 'mushroom catchup, 
and stir it into a paste. 

15. Put the saucepan on the fire and let the mince just 
warm through. 

N. B. Be very careful that it does not boil, or the meat will get 
hardened. 

16. For serving, make a wall of the mashed potatoes 
round the edge of a hot dish, and pour the mince in the 
centre ; stand the dish in front of the fire, to color the 
potato a pale-brown. 



THE 

PRINCIPLES OF DIET 

IN 

HEALTH AND DISEASE. 



BY 

THOMAS K. CHAMBERS, M. D. 



[A REPRINT OF THE ARTICLE " DIETETICS " IN THE NEW EDITION OF 
THE "ENCYCLOPEDIA BRITANNIOA."] 



THE PRINCIPLES OF DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 



THE application of science to the regulation of the continuous 
demands of the body for nutriment aims mainly at three ob- 
jects : Health, Pleasure, and Economy. They are rarely inconsistent 
with one another, hut yet require separate consideration, as, under 
varying circumstances, each may claim the most prominent place in 
our thoughts. 

INFLUENCE OF DIET UPON HEALTH. 

The influence of diet upon the health of a man begins at the ear- 
liest stage of his life, and, indeed, is then greater than at any other 
period. It is varied by the several phases of internal growth and of 
external relations, and in old age is still important in prolonging 
existence and rendering it agreeable and useful. 

Diet in Infancy. No food has as yet been found so suitable for 
the young of all animals as their mother's milk. And this has not 
been from want of seeking. Dr. Brouzet (" Sur 1'Education M6dici- 
nale des Enfants," i., p. 165) has such a bad opinion of human mothers, 
that he expresses a wish for the State to interfere and prevent them 
from suckling their children, lest they should communicate immoral- 
ity and disease ! A still more determined pessimist was the famous 
chemist, Van Helmont, who thought life had been reduced to its 
present shortness by our inborn propensities, and proposed to substi- 
tute bread boiled in beer and honey for milk, which latter he calls 
"brute's food." Baron Liebig has followed the lead with a "food 
for infants," in the prescription for which half-ounces and quarter- 
grains figure freely, and which has to be prepared on a slow fire, 
and after a few minutes boiled well. And after all, not nearly such 
a close imitation of human milk is made as by the addition to fresh 



330 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

cow's milk of half its bulk of soft water, in each pint of which has 
been mixed a heaped-up teaspoonful of powdered " sugar of milk " 
and a pinch of phosphate of lime. Indeed, in default of these cheap 
chemicals, the milk and water alone, when fresh and pure, are safer 
than an artificial compound which requires cooking. And experi- 
ence shows that the best mode of administering food to the young is 
also that which is most widely adopted throughout warm-blooded 
nature namely, in a fresh, tepid, liquid state, frequently, and in 
small quantities at a time. 

Empirical observation is fully supported in these deductions by 
physiological and chemical science. Milk contains of 

Water 88 per cent 

Oleaginous matter (cream or butter) 3 " 

Nitrogenous matter (cheese and albumen) ..... 4 " 

Hydrocarbon (sugar) ... . 4$ " 

Saline matter (phosphate of lime, chloride of sodium, iron, etc.) $ " 

These are at once the constituents and the proportions of the con- 
stituents of food suited to a weakly, rapidly-growing animal. The 
large quantity of water makes it pass easily through the soft, ab- 
sorbent walls of the digestive canal ; and the complete suspension, 
in an alkaline fluid, of the finely-divided fat and nitrogenous matter 
introduces more of them than could be effected were they in a solid 
form. The fat is the germ of new cellular growth, and the nitro- 
genous matter is by the new cells formed into flesh, which is doubling 
its bulk monthly. The phosphate of lime is required for the harden- 
ing bones, the chloride of sodium and the iron for the daily-increasing 
amount of blood in circulation. Milk may be said to be still alive as 
it leaves the breast fresh and warm, and quickly becomes living 
blood in the infant's veins. A very slight chemical change is requi- 
site. Its frequent administration is demanded by the rapid absorp- 
tion, and the absence of regular meals prevents the overloading of 
the delicate young stomach with more than it can hold at once. 

The wholesomest nutriment for the first six months is milk alone. 
A vigorous baby can, indeed, bear with impunity much rough usage, 
and often appears none the worse for a certain quantity of farina- 
ceous food ; but the majority do not get habituated to it without 
an exhibition of dislike, which indicates rebellion of the bowels. 

To give judicious diet its fair chance, the frame must be well 
protected from the cold ; and just in proportion as the normal tern- 



THE FOOD OF INFANCY. 331 

perature of the body is maintained, so does growth prosper, as is 
satisfactorily proved by experiments on the young of the lower 
animals. 

It is only when the teeth are on their way to the front, as shown 
by dribbling, that the parotid glands secrete an active saliva capable 
of digesting bread-stuffs. Till then, anything but milk must be given 
tentatively, and considered in the light of a means of education for 
its future mode of nutrition. Among the varieties of such means, 
the most generally applicable are broth and beef-tea, at first pure, 
and then thickened with tapioca and arrow-root. Chicken-soup, 
made with a little cream and sugar, serves as a change. Baked flour, 
biscuit-powder, tops and bottoms, should all have their turn. Change 
is necessary in the imperfect dietary which art supplies, and for 
change the stomach should be prepared by habit. 

The consequences of premature weaning are insidious. The 
external aspect of the child is that of health ; its muscles are strong, 
but the bones do not harden in proportion ; and if it tries to walk, 
its limbs give way, and it is said to be suffering from rachitis, or 
" rickets." 

These consequences follow in other animals as surely as in the 
human race ; and in them it was possible to make the experiment 
crucial. A gentleman named Gugrin set himself to find if he could 
produce rickets at will. He took a number of puppies in equally 
good condition, and, having let them suckle for a time, he suddenly 
weaned half of them and fed them on raw meat a fare which on 
first thought would seem the most suitable for carnivorous animals. 
Nevertheless, after a short time those which continued to take the 
mother's milk had grown strong and hearty, while those which had 
been treated with a more substantial dietary pined, and frequently 
threw up their victuals, then their limbs bent, and at the end of about 
four months they showed all the symptoms of confirmed rickets. From 
these experiments we must conclude that the rachitis depended 
mainly on the derangements of nutrition brought on by improper 
diet. A diet which is taken at the wrong season may fairly be 
called improper. For carnivora, it is flesh before the age of suckling 
has passed ; for herbivora (and an experiment bearing on the point 
has been made on pigs), it is vegetable feeding begun when they 
ought to be at the teat. 1 

1 Trousseau, "Clinique Medicale, 11 vol. iii., p. 494, third edition. 



332 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

The time for weaning should be fixed partly by the child's age, 
partly by the growth of the teeth. The troubles to which children 
are subject at this crisis are usually gastric, such as are induced by 
summer weather; therefore at that season the weaning should be 
postponed, whereas in winter it should be hurried forward. The 
first group of teeth, nine times out of ten, consists of the lower cen- 
tral front teeth, which may appear any time during the sixth and 
seventh month. The mother may then begin to dimmish the num- 
ber of suckling times; and by a month she can have reduced them to 
twice a day, so as to be ready, when the second group makes its way 
through the upper front gums, to cut off the supply altogether. The 
third group the lateral incisors and first grinders usually after the 
first anniversary of birth give notice that solid food can be chewed. 
But it is prudent to let dairy-milk form a considerable portion of the 
fare till the eye-teeth are cut, which seldom happens till the eighteenth 
or twentieth month. At this period children are liable to diarrhoea, 
convulsions, irritation of the brain, rashes, and febrile catarrhs. In 
such cases it is often advisable to resume a complete milk-diet, and 
sometimes a child's life has been saved by its reapplication to the 
breast. These means are most feasible when the patient is accus- 
tomed to milk ; indeed, if not, the latter expedient is hardly possible. 

Diet in Childhood and Youth. At this stage of life the diet must 
obviously be the best which is a transition from that of infancy to 
that of adult age. Growth is not completed, but yet entire surren- 
der of every consideration to the claim of growth is not possible, nor 
indeed desirable. Moreover, that abundance of adipose tissue, or 
reserve new growth, which a baby can bear, is an impediment to the 
due education of the muscles of the boy or girl. The supply of nu- 
triment needs not to be so continuous as before, but at the same time 
should be more frequent than for the adult. Up to at least fourteen 
or fifteen years of age the rule should be four meals a day, varied 
indeed, but nearly equal in nutritive power and in quantity that is 
to say, all moderate, all sufficient. The maturity the body then 
reaches involves a hardening and enlargement of the bones and car- 
tilages, and a strengthening of the digestive organs, which in healthy 
young persons enables us to dispense with some of the watchful care 
bestowed upon their diet. Three full meals a day are generally suffi- 
cient, and the requirements of mental training may be allowed to a 
certain extent to modify the attention to nutrition, which has hith- 



DIET IN CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH. 333 

erto been paramount. But it must not be forgotten that the changes 
in figure and in internal organs are not completed till several years 
have passed, and that they involve increased growth and demand 
full supplies. As less bulky food is used, care should be taken that 
it is sufficiently nutritious, and habits should be acquired which con- 
duce to making the most of it for the maintenance of strength. 

The nutritiousness of food depends on digestibility and concentra- 
tion. Food is digestible when it yields readily its constituents to the 
fluids destined for their reduction to absorbable chyme. It is more 
or less concentrated, according as a given weight contains more or 
less matter capable of supporting life. The degree in which they 
possess these qualifications united constitutes the absolute nutritive 
value of alimentary matters. 

The degree of cohesion in the viands influences digestibility. 
Tough articles incapable of being completely ground up by the teeth re- 
main unused, while fluids and semifluids lead the van of digestibles. The 
tissues of young vegetables and young animals are, for this reason, 
more digestible than old specimens. It is desirable also that the post- 
mortem rigidity, which lasts several days in most instances, should 
have merged into softness before the meat is cooked, or should have 
been anticipated by cooking before the flesh is cold. In warm cli- 
mates and exceptionally warm weather, the latter course is the pref- 
erable. The dietician, especially when the feeding of the young is 
in question, will prefer those methods of culinary preparation which 
most break up the natural cohesion of the viands. And it may be 
noticed that the force of cohesion acts in all directions, and that it is 
no advantage for an article to be laterally friable if it remains stringy 
in a longitudinal direction. 

Fat interposed between the component parts of food diminishes 
its digestibility. It is the interstitial fat, between the fasciculi of 
muscular fibre in beef, which renders it to young persons, and to 
dyspeptics, less digestible than mutton. 

A temperature above that of the body retards digestion. Meat, 
which is digested by the gastric juice in the stomach, has time to 
cool before it gets there ; but farinaceous food, which depends for 
its conversion into chyme on the salivary glands, suffers a serious 
loss if, by reason of being too hot, it cannot avail itself of the saliva 
supplied by the mouth. It should also be borne in mind that a tem- 
perature much above that of the body cracks the enamel of the teeth. 



334 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

Excessive concentration impairs digestibility. The principal me- 
dium by which nutriment is carried through the absorbent membrane 
of the digestive canal is water. There is no doubt it passes more 
rapidly by endosmosis than anything else. The removal, then, of 
water is an injury to viands ; and drying, salting, over-frying, over- 
roasting, and even over-boiling, renders them less soluble in the 
digestive juices, and so less nutritious. A familiar illustration of this 
may be taken from eggs. Let an egg be lightly boiled, poached in 
water, custarded, or raw, and the stomach even of an invalid can 
bear it ; but let it be baked in a pudding which requires a hot oven, 
or boiled hard, or otherwise submitted to a high temperature for a 
prolonged period, and it becomes a tasteless, leathery substance, 
which can be of no more use in the stomach than so much skin or 
hair. It is obvious, then, that it is mainly in a commercial point of 
view that articles of diet can be called nutritious in proportion to 
their concentration. About this there can be no question ; milk 
adulterated from the pump is worth so much less than pure milk, 
and a pound of beef -steak sustains a man longer than a pint of veal- 
broth. 

The attainment of nutrition sness by concentration is of consid- 
erable importance to travelers and in military medicine. There are 
not a few strategists who attribute the success of the Germans in the 
war of 1870 to the easily-carried and easily-prepared food supplied 
to them by the sausage-makers of Berlin. Concentration of viands 
carried to excess, so as to be likely to affect the health, is usually 
made manifest by a diminution in the secretion of urine and its con- 
densed condition ; while, on the other hand, if dilution is needlessly 
great, the action of the kidneys is excessive. Now, the urine of 
young persons is naturally of lower specific gravity that is, more 
aqueous than that of adults. If it is found to equal in density the 
excretion of full growth, or if it is observed to be voided but rarely, 
the meals should be made more bulky, or, better still, more frequent, 
so as not to overload the stomach. 

An over-concentrated diet often induces costiveness. This should 
be counteracted by green vegetables and other dilute appetizing 
dishes, and never by purgative drugs. The habit of taking a consid- 
erable quantity and variety of fresh green vegetables has the further 
advantage of preventing that tendency to minor developments of 
scurvy which is not uncommonly found in youths nourished mainly 



DIET FOR BODILY LABOR 335 

on animal food. A softness or friability of the gums is one of the 
first signs of this. If the mouth bleeds after the application of a 
tooth-brush, the use of fresh vegetables at every meal should be 
enforced. 

The young are peculiarly liable to be affected by poisons con- 
veyed in fluids. Their sensitive frames absorb quickly, and quickly 
turn to evil account such substances, even when diluted to an extent 
which makes them harmless to adults. The water, therefore, with 
which families, and still more with which schools, are supplied, 
should be carefully subjected to analysis. Wherever a trace of lead 
is found, means should be adopted to remove the source of it ; and 
organic products should have their origin clearly accounted for, and 
all possibility of sewage contamination excluded. These precautions 
are essential, in spite of the grown-up portion of the household hav- 
ing habitually used the water without injury. 

Fresh milk has long had a bad popular reputation as occasionally 
conveying fever, and in some parts of Ireland the peasantry can 
hardly ever be got to take it u raw." This is quite irrespective of 
the state of the cattle which furnish it ; no cases of disease thus com- 
municated have ever been traced home to sick cows. It is probably 
always due either to adulteration with dirty water, or to the vessels 
being washed in that dangerous medium, or to their being exposed 
to air loaded with elements of contagion. 

Up to the period of full development, the daily use of wine should 
be allowed only during illness and the express attendance of a med- 
ical adviser. Its habitual consumption by liealthy children hastens 
forward the crisis of puberty, checks growth, and habituates them to 
the artificial sensations induced by alcohol. 

Diet for Bodily Labor. It seems certain that the old theory of 
Liebig, which attributed the whole of the force exhibited in muscu- 
lar movements to the oxidation of muscular tissue, is untenable. 
There is not enough of the material oxidized that is to say, destroyed 
and carried away as urea and other nitrogenous excretions to gen- 
erate so much force, as measured by the method of Joule. On the 
other hand, Traube goes too far when he would make out that in the 
performance of muscular work the metamorphosis of the organized 
constituents of contractile tissue is not involved, and that non-nitro- 
genous substances alone are consumed. The prolonged feats of 
walking performed by the pedestrian Weston in 1876 vastly increased 



336 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

the amounts excreted of those elements of the urine which are de- 
rived from the oxidation of muscle and nerve. 1 The urea formed by 
the destructive assimilation of contractile fibre, and the phosphates 
whose main source is nervous tissue, were each nearly doubled dur- 
ing and shortly after the extraordinary strain upon those parts of 
the body. As might be expected, the machinery wears away quicker 
when it is harder worked, and requires to be repaired immediately 
by an enhanced quantity of new material, or it will be worn beyond 
the power of repair. The daily supply, therefore, of digestible nitro- 
genous food meat par excellence must be increased whenever the 
muscular exercise is increased. In making the recent extension of 
railways in Sicily, the progress was retarded by the slack work done 
by the Sicilian navvies, compared with that got through by the Eng- 
lish gangs. The former took scarcely any meat, preferring to save 
the wages expended by their comrades in that way. The idea oc- 
curred to the contractor of paying the men partly in money and 
partly in meat ; and the result was a marked increase in the amount 
of work executed, which was brought nearly up to the British aver- 
age. A mixed diet, with an increase in the proportionate quantity 
of meat when extra corporeal exertion is required, is the wholesomest, 
as well as the most economical, for all sorts of manual laborers. 

It is absolutely essentjal that the fleshy machinery for doing work 
should be continuously replaced by flesh-food as it becomes worn 
out. Nitrogenous aliment, after a few chemical changes, replaces 
the lost muscle which has passed away in the excretions, just as the 
engineer makes ore into steel and renews the corroded boiler-plate 
or thinned piston. Now, as the renewal of the plate or piston is a 
" stimulus " to the augmented performances of the engine, so meat 
is a " stimulus" to augmented muscular action. Taken in a digesti- 
ble form during exertion, it allows the exertion to be continued 
longer, with greater ease and less consequent exhaustion. Accord- 
ing to the testimony of soldiers experimentally put through forced 
marches of twenty miles a day, with loads of half a hundredweight 
each, "meat extract" bears away the palm from the other reputed 
stimulants commonly compared with it viz., rum and coffee. "It 
does not put a spirit into you for a few miles only, but has a lasting 

1 See Dr..Pavy on Weston's walk, in Lancet of December 23, 18T6. The urea excreted 
when walking bore to that excreted during rest the relation of 17 to 10 ; phosphoric acid, 
19 to 10; lime, 15 to 10, etc. 



DIET AS A SOURCE OF FORCE. 337 

effect. If I were ordered for continuous marching, and had my 
choice, I would certainly take the meat extract," said an unpreju- 
diced sergeant to Dr. Parkes, who was the conductor of the experi- 
ments alluded to. 1 

When the continuous repair of the muscular machinery is fully 
secured, the production of heat and force is most readily provided 
for by vegetable aliment, by reason of the large proportion of carbon 
which it contains. In assigning their physiological functions to the 
several sorts of food, nearly all the business of begetting active force 
should apparently be ascribed to the solid hydrocarbons, starch and 
fat, by their conversion into carbonic acid. It is not necessary to be 
acquainted with every step of the process which in the body we 
confessedly are not to appreciate the argument. It is clearly im- 
portant that these elements of diet should be furnished in sufficient 
quantity v and in a digestible form. In additions to diet made in 
consequence of additional bodily work, not only should the stimulus 
of animal food be attended to, but the bulk of starch and fat in the 
rations should be augmented even in larger proportion, for these ali- 
ments are the most direct contributors of force. 2 



1 " On the Issue of a Spirit Kation during the Ashantee Campaign of 1874," by E. A. 
Parkes, M. D., Professor of Military Hygiene in the Army Medical School, London, 1875. 

2 This is well illustrated by a remarkable feat performed on the Great Western Eailway 
in the summer of 1872. It was necessary to shift the rails from the broad to the narrow 
gauge on upward of 500 miles of permanent way within a fortnight. The task was enor- 
mous, for the Great Western is one of the few English lines whose rails are held down by 
bolts screwed into nuts. All these had to be unscrewed, and replaced after removing the 
heavy rail two feet About 3,000 men were employed, working double time, sometimes 
from 4 in the morning till 9 at night ; and, without one being sick or drunk, they accom- 
plished the work in the prescribed time. The scheme for generating muscular power was 
this : The men were hutted along the line, 80 as not to waste their strength by coming and 
going, and they brought with them bacon, bread, cheese, cocoa, etc., to provide their usual 
meals at usual times. But they had no boer, nor alcohol in any form. A pound and a half 
of oatmeal and half a pound of sugar was allowed extra to each man daily, and for every 
gang of twenty- one a cook was provided. The first thing done in. the morning was to 
breakfast ; and then the cook and his caldron started along the line till water was found 
convenient ; a fireplace of stones was built, and the pot boiled. Oatmeal was then sprin- 
kled into it with sugar, and thoroughly well boiled till thin gruel was made. As soon as 
the " shout for drink " was heard, buckets were filled and carried round, with small pan- 
nikins to convey the liquid to the panting mouths. The men liked it exceedingly, and 
learned by experience the importance of having it well cooked. 

The incident may remind the reader of classical medicine of Hippocrates, who considers 
the culinary preparation of oatmeal ptisan so important, that, in a short treatise " On the 
Treatment of Acute Disease," he devotes to it the only cookery recipe he has inserted in 
his works. He describes how it is to be boiled till it can swell no longer (so that it may 



338 



DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 



Training for athletic sports is based on the principles above 
enunciated. The usual time allotted to it is six weeks, and the ob- 
jects to be attained in this period may be described as 

1. The removal of superfluous fat and water. 

2. The increase of contractile power in the muscles. 

3. Increased endurance. 

4. " Wind," that is to say, a power of breathing and circulating 
the blood steadily, in spite of exertion. 

The first is aimed at by considerably adding to the daily amount 
of nitrogenous and by diminishing farinaceous and liquid food, and 
providing that it should be so consumed as to be fully digested. 
The second and third are secured by gradually increasing the de- 
mands made upon the muscles, till they have learned to exert at 
will all the powers of which they are capable, and for as long a 
period as the natural structure of the individual frame permits. 
" Wind " is improved by choosing as part of the training an exercise 
such as running, which can be sustained only when the respiratory 
and circulating organs do their duty fairly. 

As an example, the Oxford system of training for the summei 
boat-races may be cited. It may be considered a typical regimen 
for fully developing a young man's corporeal powers to fulfill the de- 
mands of an extraordinary exertion a standard which may be mod- 
ified according to the circumstances for which the training is re- 
quired. It is as follows : 

A DAY'S TRAINING. 1 



Kise about 7 A. M. 


A short walk or run. 


Not compulsory. 




l Of tea 


As little as possible. 


Breakfast at 8.80 


. . < ! Meat beef or mutton 
( ! Bread or dry toast . . 


Underdone. 




! None. 






(Meat much the same as for 
breakfast. 
Bread . . .. 






Vegetables none 






Beer, one pint. 





swell no more in the stomach), how it is to be settled and strained through a coarse colan- 
der. He prescribes it, indeed, for sick people, but he would have been the first to agree 
with our advanced physiologists in the opinion that overstrained muscular effort produces 
the same effect as continued fever (es irvperbv /caflt'oTarai /u.a/cpoTepov), its chief dangers 
lying in rise of temperature and arrested cutaneous action, and that its true antagonist is 
nutriment capable of rapid absorption, dissolved in that most essential nutriment, water. 
1 See Maclaren's "Training in Theory and Practice," appendix to edition of 1866. 



USE OF FOOD IN BODILY TRAINING. 



339 



Exercise { 


About 5 o'clock start for the 
river, and row twice over 
the course, the speed in- 




Supper at 8.30 or 9 P. M \ 
Bed about 10. 


creasing with the strength 
ol' the crew. 
Meat, cold. 
Bread, and perhaps a little 
jelly or water-cresses. 
Beer, one pint. 





The Cambridge system differs very slightly, and in neither is any 
exaggerated severity of discipline enforced, while some latitude is 
permitted to peculiarities and a wish for variety, and plenty of 
time is left for business and social intercourse. Other plans are 
objectionable, from involving, without any corresponding advantage, 
a complete departure from the usual habits of the educated classes. 
For instance, according to Clasper, dinner is to be at noon, with 
only a light tea afterward, and no supper. Then a country walk 
of four or five miles is to be taken before breakfast, and two hours' 
row afterward, and another hard row between dinner and tea. 1 
" Stonehenge," again, requires the time between breakfast and 
dinner to be spent entirely on billiards, skittles, quoits, rowing, 
and running, in spite of another hour's row being prescribed at 
6 P. M. He also requires the aspirant for athletic honors to sleep 
between ten and eleven hours. 2 Only professionals will carry out 
such rules, and even they do not either benefit their health or 
lengthen their lives by the sacrifice ; for it is notorious that " over- 
training" leads to a condition of system in which the sufferers de- 
scribe themselves as a fallen to pieces." The most peculiar symptom 
is a sudden loss of voluntary power after exertion. It is sometimes 
called " fainting," but there is no loss of sense, and it is quickly re- 
lieved by liquid food. It is to the pathologist a timely warning of 
that consequence of overstrained muscle which constitutes paralysis 
scriptorum, turner's palsy, and blacksmith's palsy, and which results 
in fatty degeneration of the red muscular fibre. To get and to keep 
its health, a muscle needs a constant alternation of active contraction 
and rest, and an enforced protraction of either one or the other leads 
to the loss of vital properties. The limbs of an Indian fakir, volun- 
tarily held in a strained posture, or those of a bed-ridden invalid, are 

1 " Rowing Almanac," 1863. 

8 Article " Boat-Racing," in " British Rural Sports," 1861. 



340 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

equally apt to become useless. Over-trained persons are also liable 
to a languor and apparent weakness, which is found, on examination, 
to depend on an excessive secretion of urea by the kidneys. 

Such are not the results, however, of the training adopted' at the 
universities, by which it would appear that the constitution is 
strengthened, the intellect sharpened, and life lengthened. Dr. John 
Morgan ("University Oars," 1873) has collected statistics of the sub- 
sequent health of those who have rowed in the university races since 
1829, and he finds that, whereas at twenty years of age, according to 
Farr's life tables, average expectation of survival is forty years, for 
these oarsmen it is forty-two years. Moreover, in the cases of death, 
inquiry into its causes exhibits evidence of good constitutions rather 
than the contrary, the causes consisting largely of fevers and acci- 
dents, to which the vigorous and active are more exposed than the 
sick. And it is not at the expense of the mind that the body is cul- 
tivated, for this roll of athletes is adorned with the names of bishops, 
poets, queen's counsel, etc. 

Training greatly increases the vital capacity of the chest, so that 
much more air can be blown in and out of the lungs, and with greater 
force, than previously. And this vital capacity endures longer than 
the other improvements. It is evidence of the permanent elasticity 
of the pulmonary tissue, and an efficient protection against asthma, 
emphysema, and other degenerations of the organ of breathing. 

Indigestion, sleeplessness, nervous indecision, palpitation of heart, 
and irregularity of bowels, disappear under training; but if they 
exist, -the regimen should be entered on with more than usual caution. 

An important modification of training is that which contemplates 
the reduction of corpulence which has increased to the extent 
of interfering with comfort and preventing active exercise. If an 
exhausting amount of muscular effort is enforced, the digestion of 
meat is interfered with, while at the same time there still goes on 
the absorption of such fat as is unavoidably present in the victuals, 
so that the muscles and nerves lose strength, while the adipose tissue 
grows. Besides this, if by violent means the weight is worked down, 
then, to keep it down, those violent means must be persisted in ; 
and if they be neglected for more interesting occupations, the burden 
rapidly increases to a greater degree than ever. Many uncomfortably 
obese persons are very active in mind and body, and could not add 
to their muscular exercise without risk of harm. 



THE REDUCTION OF CORPULENCE. 

Kegimen, then, is more essentially important to them than to 
other trainers, and they will probably be more induced to attend to 
it if they understand the principles on which it is based. This is 
simply to exclude from the bill of fare all those articles which con- 
tain fat, or which, by the chemical actions of the digestive viscera, 
may be converted into fat. 

For the reduction of corpulence, the following rules may be ob- 
served for a three weeks' course : 

Eise at 7, rub the body well with horse-hair gloves, have a cold 
bath, and take a short turn in the open air. Breakfast (alone) at 8 
or 8.30, on the lean of beef or mutton (cutting off the fat and skin), 
dry toast, biscuit or oat-cake, a tumbler of claret and water, or tea 
without milk or sugar, or made in the Eussian way, with a slice of 
lemon. Lunch at 1 on bread or biscuit, Dutch cheese, salad, water- 
cresses or roasted apples, hung beef or anchovies, or red-herring, or 
olives, and similar relishes. After eating, drink claret and water, or 
unsweetened lemonade, or plain water, in moderation. Dine at any 
convenient hour. Avoid soup, fish, or pastry, but eat plain meat of 
any sort except pork, rejecting the fat and skin. Spinach, haricots, 
or any other green vegetable, may be taken, but no potatoes, made 
dishes, or sweets. A jelly, or a lemon-water-ice, or a roast apple, 
must suffice in their place. Take claret and water at dinner, and one 
glass of sherry or Madeira afterward. 

Between meals, as a rule, exercise must always be taken to the 
extent of inducing perspiration. Eunning, when practicable, is the 
best form in which to take it. 

Seven or eight pounds is as much as it is prudent to lose during 
the three weeks. If this loss is arrived at sooner, or indeed later, 
the severe parts of the treatment may be gradually omitted ; but 
it is strongly recommended to modify the general habits in accord- 
ance with the principle of taking as small a quantity as possible of 
fat and sugar, or of substances which form fat and sugar, and sus- 
taining the respiratory function. By this means the weight may be 
gradually reduced for a few months with safety. 

Small quantities of dilute alcoholic liquids taken with meals 
slightly increase the activity of the renewal of the nitrogenous tissues, 
mainly muscle ; that is to say, there is a more rapid reconstruction 
of those parts, as is shown by the augmented formation of urea and 
the sharpened appetite. Life is fuller and more complete, old flesh 



342 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

is removed, and food appropriated as new flesh, somewhat more 
quickly than when no alcohol is ingested. There appears to he a 
temporary rise in the digestive powers of the stomach, which is prob- 
ably the initiative act. The nerve-functions are blunted, and a less- 
ened excretion of phosphorus exhibits a temporary check in the 
wear and renewal of the nerve-tissue. The " vital capacity " of the 
lungs, as indicated by the spirometer, is reduced, showing a dimin- 
ished oxidation of the blood. 

The effect on a healthy man of taking with a meal such a quan- 
tity of fermented liquor as puts him at ease with himself and the 
world around, without untoward exhilaration, is to arrest the wear of 
the nervous system, especially that part employed in emotion and 
sensation. Just as often, then, as the zest for food is raised to its 
normal standard by a little wine or beer with a meal, the moderate 
consumer is as much really better as he feels the better for it. 
Where the food is as keenly enjoyed without it, the consumption of 
a stimulant is useless. But alcohol is not a source of force, and its 
direct action is an arrest of vitality. 

Diet for Mental Work. An expression of Btichner's "No think- 
ing without phosphorus " * has gained an unhappy notoriety. 
Strictly speaking, it is a groundless assumption, for we cannot say 
that intellectual being may not exist joined to any form of matter, or 
quite independent of matter. We certainly do not know enough of 
the subject to lay down such a negative statement. And if it be held 
to mean that the amount of phosphorus passing through the body 
bears a proportion to the intensity of thought, it is simply a mis- 
statement. A captive lion, tiger, leopard, or hare assimilates and 
parts with a greater amount of phosphorus than a hard-thinking 
man, while a beaver, noted for its powers of contrivance, excretes 
so little phosphorus that chemical analysis cannot find it in the 
excreta. All that the physiologist is justified in asserting is that, for 
the mind to energize in a living body, that body must be kept living 
up to a certain standard, and that for the continuous renewal of life 
a supply of phosphatic salts is required. The same may be said with 
equal justice of water, fat, nitrogen, chloride of sodium, oxygen, etc. 
The phosphates are wanted indeed, but wanted by pinches, whereas 
water is required by pailfuls. A few days without water, or a few 

1 " Ohne Phosphor kein Gedanke," " Kraft und Stoff," section 122. 



DIET FOR MENTAL WORK. 343 

minutes without oxygen, will terminate the train of consciousness. 
The practical points taught us by physiology are that, for the integ- 
rity of thought, integrity of the nervous tissue is requisite ; and for 
the integrity of the nervous tissue, a due quantity of such food as 
contains digestible phosphatic salts. 

The most perfect regimen for the healthy exercise of thought is 
such as would be advised for a growing boy viz., frequent small 
supplies of easily-soluble mixed food, so as to furnish the greatest 
quantity of nutriment without overloading the stomach, or running 
the risk of generating morbid half-assimilated products. For it is 
essential to the intellectual direction of the nervous system that it 
should not be oppressed by physical impediments. The presence in 
the stomach or blood of imperfectly assimilated nutriment impedes 
its functions in close proportion to their amount, so that not only 
the constituents, but the mode of administering food, must come into 
the calculation. " Repletw venter non studet libenter" is an old 
proverb, the application of which saves many a brain and many a 
stomach from being worked against the grain. Rest from brain- 
work for twenty minutes before meals, entire abstinence from it 
during meals, and rest again till the weight has passed from the 
stomach, are essential to the reconcilement of psychical exertion 
with bodily health. 

The physiology of the action of alcohol has a very important 
bearing on the physical management of the mental functions. Alco- 
hol has the power of curbing, arresting, and suspending all the man- 
ifestations of the nervous system, so that we feel its influence on our 
thoughts sooner than on any other part of the system. Sometimes 
it brings them more completely under our command, controls and 
steadies them; more often it confuses or disconnects them, and 
then breaks oS. our power over them altogether. When a man has 
tired himself by intellectual exertion, a moderate quantity of alco- 
holic stimulant taken with food acts as an anaesthetic, stays the wear 
of the system which is going on, and allows the nerve-force to be 
turned to the due digestion of the meal. But it must be followed by 
rest from toil, and is in essence a part of the same treatment which 
includes rest it is an artificial rest. To continue to labor, and at 
the same time to take an anaesthetic, is a physiological inconsistency. 
The drug merely blunts the useful feeling of weariness, and prevents 
it from acting as a warning. There is no habit more fatal to a lit- 
16 



34:4: DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

erary man than that of taking stimulants between meals ; the vital 
powers go on wearing out more and more, without their cry for help 
being perceived, and in the end break down irrevocably. 

As to quantity, the appetite for solid food is the safest guide. If 
a better dinner or supper is eaten when it is accompanied by a cer- 
tain amount of fermented liquor, that is the amount most suitable ; 
if a worse, then an excess is committed, however little be taken. 

The aim of the diet should be (to quote the words of John Mil- 
ton) " to preserve the body's health and hardness, to render light- 
some, clear, and not lumpish obedience to the mind, to the cause of 
religion and our country's liberty, when it shall require from hearts 
in sound bodies to stand and cover their stations." 

It is especially when the mind of genius is overshadowed by the 
dark clouds of threatened insanity, of hypochondriasis, or of hysteria, 
that a rational mode of life preserves it. Nothing but daily exercise, 
temperate meals, and a punctual observance of regular hours of rest 
and study, could have kept burning the flickering reason in poor 
Cowper. 

As regards the proper quantity of alcohol that may be used, the 
two following questions naturally occur : How is a man to know 
when he has had enough? and what are the signs of too much? The 
ancients used to wear dark-red or purple engraved gems, which they 
considered preservatives against excess, and called them a/ueOvcrol 
"sober-stones," " amethysts." The name is now limited to the vio- 
let rock-crystal, but in early times it was applied to several other 
stones, cut in intaglio, and worn on the fingers at festive gatherings. 
So long as the wearer could decipher the minute works of art they 
bore, he had not reached excess. A more delicate test still is the 
appreciation of temperature by the skin; if a draught does not chill, 
if a hot room fails to produce the usual discomfort, the wise man 
knows he has exceeded and must stop at once. In short, the safest 
rule is that, when there is a consciousness of any psychical effect at 
all beyond that of satisfaction at the relief of bodily weariness such 
a satisfaction as is felt on taking a good meal by a vigorous person 
then the limits of moderation have been attained. On ordinary 
occasions of daily life, and " for the stomach's sake," no more 
should be taken. Each fresh drop is a step downward to the evil 
results of alcohol. But to the practiser of daily temperance, festive 
occasions are safe and may be beneficial. A man may, from time to 



DIET OF MOTHERS. 345 

time, keep up without harm the above-mentioned sense of satisfac- 
tion by good and digestible wine in good company, without fear of 
getting drunk or failure of health, if he makes it a law to himself to 
stop as soon as he experiences any hurry of ideas or indistinctness of 
the senses. 

Diet of Mothers. During pregnancy as much care should be taken 
not to get too fat as is taken by an athlete training for a race. The 
rules for modified training explained above will afford hints on the 
subject, but it is not desirable to carry the process so far. 

There is a temptation at this time to increase the usual allowance 
of stimulant; alcohol is taken between meals to overcome the nausea 
and depression incident to the state of body. And by this mistaken 
expedient the nausea gradually becomes dyspeptic vomiting. On 
leaving it off, the sickness ceases. A mother should also remember 
that nearly all the alcohol she consumes mixes with her blood, which 
now is one with the blood of the foetus. 

During lactation the most suitable drink for a mother is cow's 
milk, fresh and unskimmed. If it turns sour on the stomach, lime- 
water mixed with it not only corrects the acescence, but also supplies 
a valuable aid to the growing bones of the infant. In her solid diet- 
ary, also, milk may be fairly taken as the type of a due admixture of 
alimentary principles, because it is not individual growth or the pro- 
duction of muscular force, but the secretion of milk, that is the ob- 
ject of the selection of diet. 

Supposing the full diet to consist of three pounds of solid food, 
that will require six pints extra of uncombined aqueous fluid to make 
it as fluid as milk ; and, to combine the nitrogenous and carbonaceous 
constituents in due proportion, the three pounds of solid food should 
consist of 

14$ ounces of meat. 
13 ounces of fat, butter, and sugar. 
20 ounces of farinaceous food and vegetables. 
J ounce of salt, lime, etc. 

At first, from the exhaustion consequent on childbed, from the 
want of exercise and of fresh air, the appetite turns against meat. 
Let then milk, especially boiled milk, with arrow-root or the like, 
chicken-broth, or egg-custards, fill up the deficiency. 

Any increase in the habitual allowance of alcohol is as unfitting 
to this period of life as during pregnancy. 



346 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

Diet of Old Age. It is a remark extant from the rough times, 
when famine was more frequent than now, that the older a human 
being is the better deficiency of food is borne. Old men suffer least 
from abstinence, 1 and benefit therefore most from temperance in eat- 
ing. Everybody who has passed the age of fifty, or thereabouts, with 
a fairly unimpaired constitution, will act wisely in diminishing his 
daily quantity of solid food. There is less demand for the materials 
of growth, and consequently animal food should bear a smaller pro- 
portion than heretofore to vegetable, and it is mainly in that ingredi- 
ent of the diet that reduction should be effected. Neglect of this 
rule in declining years is often punished by gout a disease attribu- 
table to excess of nitrogenous aliment, and for this reason common 
to elderly men. 

In the autumn of life, the advantages derived from fermented 
liquor are more advantageous, and the injuries it can inflict less in- 
jurious, to the body than in youth. The effect of alcohol is to check 
the activity of destructive assimilation, to arrest that rapid flux of 
the substance of the frame which, in healthy youth, can hardly be 
excessive, but which, in old age, exhausts the vital force. Loss of 
appetite is a frequent and a serious symptom in old age. It usually 
arises from deficient formation of gastric juice, which, in common 
with other secretions, diminishes with years. It is best treated phys- 
iologically rather than by drugs. 

Diet in Sickness. In all that has gone before, health has been pre- 
supposed. The modifications necessitated by sickness are of three 
kinds: 1. The avoidance of such articles of consumption as would 
increase the disease under the special circumstances, although ordi- 
narily wholesome ; 2. The maintenance of the functions or parts of 
the frame which remain normal ; 3. The administration, for a special 
curative purpose, of peculiar food which would not be recommended 
for general use. 

In sM fevers which are classed together as being apparently due to 
a poison multiplying itself in the blood, the art of diet consists in 
giving an almost continuous supply of liquid nutriment, holding very 
soluble aliments in a dilute form. There is nothing so digestible as 
water, and we take advantage of this high digestibility to get what- 
ever it can dissolve digested along with it. For the first three or 

1 Hippocrates, Aphorism xiii. 



DIET IN FEVER. 347 

even four days, patients, previously strong, should have only farina- 
ceous food, well boiled and cooled to the temperature of the body. 
Evidence has been already quoted of the power which oatmeal-gruel 
possesses of sustaining force under the trying circumstances of ex- 
cessive toil. Now, fever closely resembles muscular effort in its arrest 
of the digestive functions, at the same moment that it makes an ur- 
gent demand for nutriment. With ultra-Egyptian rigor, while straw 
is withheld, "the tale of the bricks is doubled," and we know by the 
quantity of urea and phosphates in the urine, and by the foecal excre- 
tion, that the muscles and nerves of the bed-ridden sufferer are melt- 
ing away as fast as if he were scaling the Alps with nothing to eat. 
It is quite reasonable to transfer the experiences derived from health 
to sickness, and to feel satisfied that we are not wasting precious op- 
portunities when we are giving fever-patients such a time-honored 
diet as oatmeal-gruel, care being taken that it is thoroughly well 
boiled. After three days, the tissues are beginning to suffer, and it 
is advisable to add chicken- broth, meat- jelly, and strong soup. Let 
that be supplied which the emaciation shows to be passing away 
nitrogenous tissue. 

The administration of alcohol is to be regulated partly by the 
temperature and partly by the condition of the nervous system. Usu- 
ally, if the heat of the blood (as taken at the axilla) is above 103, 
and always if it is above 105, there is a necessity for it. Again, if 
there is great prostration of strength, or tremor of the hands, or 
quivering in the voice and respiration, if there is low muttering de- 
lirium when the patient is left quiet, it is required. 

Green-sickness, or ansemia, is characterized by the rapid disappear- 
ance of the red particles which float in the blood. To what a strange 
extent this goes may be seen by looking at the insides of the lips, 
which naturally hold such a quantity of the fluid as to be quite scar- 
let, but which now are pale like those of a corpse. It is calculated 
that the loss of material in marked cases of green-sickness may 
amount to three pounds of this important constituent of the blood. 1 
Yet it is capable of complete renewal by diet. If by dint of reme- 
dies, notably iron, the appetite can be so regulated as to enjoy meat 
in excess of the immediate wants of the body, that meat is converted 
into hsematine, and the healthy hue returns to the cheeks as quickly 

1 Chambers^ " Lectures," chiefly Clinical, lect. 11. 



DIET IX HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

as it left it. "Wine is useful at meals on account of the stimulus 
it gives to the appetite; it is injurious between meals by spoil- 
ing it. 

Acute rheumatism and acute gout are best treated on an opposite 
principle. A nutrient nitrogenous diet, which the patient assimilates 
only too readily, retards recovery, and will even bring on a relapse 
during convalescence. If meat in any form, solid or liquid, be eaten, 
it seems to turn to acid, which is already in excess in the blood. The 
power of fully converting it into living flesh is wanting; and, until 
this power is regained, a semi-conversion into an organic acid takes 
place. The redder and more muscular the meat is, the more it dis- 
agrees. 

Chronic gout is indubitably due to good cheer indulged in either 
by the sufferer or his ancestors. When a man, day after day, swal- 
lows more nitrogenous food than is wanted for the repair of his tis- 
sues, the following results may be expected, with variations depend- 
ent upon his original constitution : If the digestive solvents are weak 
and scanty, the excess passes through the canal in an undigested 
state, and is partially decomposed there. Thereon ensue all sorts of 
abdominal derangements, which, however, have the advantage of 
getting rid of the offending matters. If, on the other hand, the 
stomach secretes vigorously on being stimulated, then, indeed, the 
excess is digested and absorbed, and is subject to the future changes 
consequent on assimilation. An active out-of-door life neutralizes 
this in some measure by augmenting oxidation ; much of the albumen 
goes to form glycogen, and acts as a fuel for the maintenance of mus- 
cular force. The balance is wasted in an unexplained way, and does 
not necessarily injure a hardy frame. The violent muscular exertion 
and high training needful for oxidation being inconsistent with the 
habits of intellectual society, a man in the prime of life who puts too 
much meat into a good stomach habitually retains in his blood an ex- 
cess of uric acid, into which the nitrogenous waste converts itself. 
Uric acid in the blood has been distinctly traced as the essence of 
gout. Perhaps this imaginary first offender develops the full con- 
sequences; and that is the best thing that can happen, inducing 
greater carefulness in future. 

These views can suggest but one line of preventive treatment : 
The children of gouty families should be brought up to a life of strict 
abstemiousness and muscular activity. From the earliest years vege- 



REGIMEN IN GOUTY CONDITIONS. 349 

tables and " meagre " soups should form a considerable portion of 
their dietary. 

Gouty adults require meat but once in twenty-four hours. The 
bill of fare should be varied from day to day, but as simple as pos- 
sible at each meal. Rich sauces are to be eschewed, and a lemon, an 
infusion of herbs and pepper, bread-sauce, or a puree of vegetables, 
adopted in their place. Sugar, at the end of meals, generates an ex- 
cess of organic acid, and it is to be avoided. If cheese is eaten, it 
should be new, and is best toasted and creamed. 

Dilute alkaline waters containing soda, such as Apollinaris or the 
weaker Vichy, are a rational drink during meals ; but it is probably 
best to keep to pure water. Those who live idle lives require no al- 
cohol, and it should not be an habitual accompaniment to meals. 

Red gravel is evidence of a constitution so closely allied to gout, 
that nothing need be said further about its appropriate regimen. 

In Brighfs disease of the kidneys, in contracted liver, and, in 
short, in all degenerative lesions, alcohol has a baneful influence. Its 
action upon the tissues is directly the same as theirs. Moreover, if 
we agree with its latest expositor, Dr. Sibson, that Bright's disease 
is closely associated with increased arterial tension, alcohol (whose 
effect is also to increase tension) must be peculiarly poisonous. * 

For the cure of these diseases, independent of the nutrition of the 
rest of the body, a milk diet has been proposed, and it seems to offer 
a fair prospect, if the patients can be persuaded to persist in it. How 
safely a milk diet may be adopted in middle life is shown by the ex- 
ample of Dr. Cheyne, a Bath physician of the last century, who, at 
about fifty-five, restricted himself entirely to milk and biscuits, and 
yet was able to fulfill the duties of his laborious profession. He took 
at first of the former six pints, of the latter twelve ounces; but he 
shortly diminished the quantity to half, and, after sixteen years' ex- 
perience, found it fully sufficient, and indeed capable of further re- 
duction in quantity. 2 

Weak and slow digestion is a condition which enforces an especial 
care for meat and drink. The cause of the imperfection lies in a 
deficiency in the supply of nerve-power to the stomach, so that it 
both secretes its solvent fluid and also rotates its contents too slowly ; 

1 Sibson's " Harveian Lectures," British Medical Journal, February 10, 1877. 

2 "The Natural Method of Curing Diseases of the Body," etc., by George Cheyne, 
M.D., 1742. 



350 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

and the more it is loaded the slower it goes. Of the medicinal means 
of curing such a state, this is not the place to speak ; but none of 
them will avail without the aid of a rational dietary. Time must be 
given to the oppressed organ wherein to empty itself of every com- 
plete meal, and such a period of rest given as will allow of the re- 
covery of force ; or, if the meals are frequent, they must be very 
sparing. The observations of Busch (Virchow's "Archiv," xiv.) 
show that a period of five hours elapses in the healthy subject be- 
fore a fully filled stomach can empty itself, and in the dyspeptic the 
process is still longer. Whenever, therefore, the organ is loaded as 
healthy people rightly load it, a man should allow at least seven or 
eight hours to elapse before sitting down to- another meal, and he 
must never eat till the need for food is announced by appetite. Per- 
haps a more generally applicable and easier-obeyed law is not to 
make full meals at all, but to stop short at the feeling of repletion, 
and, when that has gone off, again to take in the supply allowed by 
circumstances. Three moderate meals are usually sufficient to keep 
up the strength. 

Meat should be once cooked. Mutton, feathered fowl, venison, 
lamb, and beef are digestible in the order they here are placed in. 
The more difficult dishes should have the longest time allowed to 
them. Of the farinaceous articles of diet, bread and biscuits are 
the most easily penetrated by the gastric juices, and all their prep- 
arations are safe. The best bread is the " aerated," which is free 
from decomposing yeast. Macaroni is good if soaked till quite ma- 
cerated. Pastry is difficult of solution. Vegetables are very neces- 
sary; cauliflowers, Jerusalem artichokes, beet-root, French beans, 
soft peas, stewed celery, turnip-tops, spinach, are the most readily 
disposed of. 

When the usual mixture of meat and vegetables is found to in- 
duce flatulence, it is a good expedient to eat vegetables only at one 
meal and meat and bread only at another. The principle on which 
this plan is based is that starchy food is dissolved mainly by the al- 
kaline saliva, whereas meat is dissolved by the acid gastric juice. 
In a vigorous person both are copious enough to render immaterial 
their mutual neutralization ; but when they are scanty, their separate 
employment is a physiological economy. 

Consumption is a disease whose treatment is almost wholly die- 
tetic. The children of a mother whose pedigree exhibits proof of a 



DIETETICS IN CONSUMPTION. 351 

consumptive tendency may with propriety be put to a healthy wet- 
nurse immediately on birth, and, on being weaned, be fed from a 
Channel Island cow. The milk should be boiled and then cooled 
down to tepidity. A small teaspoonful of " saccharated solution of 
lime " may be advantageously added to each quart of milk when the 
coming teeth require the elements of their nutrition to be added to 
the diet. The rules already given for the healthy management of 
the young should be adhered to with unusual strictness, and any 
departure from them should be made only to provide for some pecul- 
iar necessity of the case according to medical advice. 

In cases of consumption it is difficult to say that drugs are use- 
less, but certainly those that, come nearest to aliments have most 
evidence in their favor, such as iron, cod-liver oil, and the phos- 
phates of lime. Their effect on the appetite must be sedulously 
watched, and the end must not be sacrificed to the means ; that is 
to say, if they spoil the appetite, they must be left off. The reason 
for administering oil is to afford an easily assimilated basis of re- 
newed organic growth, to take the place of the abnormal tendency 
to form tubercular matter. If anything prevents its easy assimila- 
tion it is obviously useless. The use of climate in the treatment of 
phthisis may be tested by its dietetic action ; if it improves the ap- 
petite it is doing good ; if it injures the appetite it is doing harm. 

In chronic jaundice the function of the liver is best restored by 
the free use of green vegetables at all meals. 

Diabetes, when it has once assumed a chronic form, is never 
really cured, but life may be much prolonged by the employment of 
a diet from which sugar and starch are excluded as far as practi- 
cable, and the patient nourished on animal food. The best fare for 
diabetic patients is that given by Prof. Bouchardat in his work " Du 
Diabete sucrSe," Paris, 1852. 

In functional nervous diseases, such as hysteria and hypochon- 
driasis, the appetite, muscular elasticity, and mental powers will 
often be observed to be deficient in the early part of the day, and to 
recover their tone in the evening. At this latter time, therefore, it 
is advisable to make the principal meal. 

Scurvy is a notable example of a disease of which, more than 
any other, the prevention depends on the adoption of a suitable 
diet. Its symptoms so far resemble those of general starvation that, 
from the earliest time of its appearance in history, it has been sus- 



352 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

pected that it is due to a dietary defective in some necessary ingre- 
dient ; and practical observation soon showed that this was fresh 
vegetables. It was found on every long voyage that the crew suffered 
from scurvy in proportion to the length of time they were restricted 
to dry food, and that they recovered rapidly as soon as they got 
access to a supply of succulent plants. This requisite for health is 
obviously the most difficult of all things to procure aboard ship, and 
efforts were made to find a substitute capable of marine transport. 
From the time of Hawkins x (1593) downward the opinion has been 
expressed, by all the most intelligent travelers, that a substitute is 
to be found in the juice of fruits of the orange tribe, such as oranges, 
lemons, etc. But in its natural state this is expensive and trouble- 
some to carry, so that skippers and owners for a couple of centu- 
ries found it expedient to be skeptical. The pictures of scurvy as it 
appeared during the eighteenth century are horrible in the extreme. 
But the statute of 1795, passed through the exertions of Captain 
Cook and Sir Gilbert Blane, has enforced the carrying of lime-juice. 
This invaluable preventive has shown its influence all the more de- 
cidedly by the disease still appearing occasionally under strong pro- 
moting circumstances, and to a certain extent in spite of the anti- 
dote ; but it is so modified as to be usually more of the nature of a 
warning or demonstration than of a serious invasion. Some, indeed, 
have questioned and even denied altogether the blessings derived 
from the enforced use of lime-juice. But they make a very scanty 
show wh'en weighed with those whom they undertake to oppose; 
and it is superfluous here to enter into the arguments and results of 
observation constituting the ponderous " Report of the Committee 
appointed by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to inquire 
into the Causes of the Outbreak of Scurvy in the Recent Arctic Ex- 
pedition, etc., and presented to both Houses of Parliament, May 7, 
1877," which seems to settle forever the preventive powers against 
scurvy of the use of lime-juice. 

The committee alluded to was appointed in consequence of one 
of those exceptional outbreaks of scurvy induced by exceptional cir- 
cumstances. The ships sent on the exploring expedition of 1875 
were amply provided with lime-juice, and with printed expositions 
of its value. During the voyage out and in the long inaction of the 

- Sir Kd. Hawkins's "Voyage," edited by Hakluyt Society, page 60. 



INFLUENCE OF FOOD IN SCURVY. 353 

winter, the men's health was so well preserved by general attention 
to hygiene that no cases of even mild scurvy were detected ; the 
pallor and languor and depression of spirits of some among the 
sailors were attributed to the want of sunlight for 142 days, and it 
was expected that a few days' sledge traveling in the open air would 
reinvigorate them. There was plenty of lime-juice aboard ; but it 
seems that it is not the custom to add to the weight of provisions 
which polar sledging-parties have to propel, by including the pre- 
servative among them. Sir George Nares, the commander of the 
expedition, cites the names of 10 admirals, 10 doctors, and 15 'cap- 
tains, who have conducted land explorations in this fashion without 
it ; and they returned unscathed to any serious extent. But on this 
recent occasion the crews seem to have been peculiarly predisposed to 
illnesses of scorbutic nature by the more than ordinary scarcity of fresh 
meat in their dietary, arising out of the deficiency of game in the 
extremely high latitude where they wintered. With few exceptions 
the whole of the crews of the Alert and the Discovery were em- 
ployed in sledging, and the consequence was, that of the 122 officers 
and men 59 were more or less incapacitated by scurvy, and four died. 

The real reason for not carrying lime-juice in such expeditions is 
its cumbersomeness. Including bottles, though in truth they are 
not wanted in a hard frost, it may be said that one pound a week for 
each man would have to be added to the baggage 1 a serious item, 
no doubt. And with a view of remedying the inconvenience, medi- 
cal men have long sought to discover to what constituent of the com- 
plicated mixture afforded by Nature it is that it owes its efficacy. In 
a contribution to the Medico- Chirurgical Review for 1848, Dr. Parkes 
examined exhaustively the evidence concerning the various deficien- 
cies in ship-food as compared with fresh food, which might be filled 
up by one or other of the components of lime-juice ; and by exclu- 
sion he is led to the conclusion that the cause of scurvy is to be 
found in deficiency of salts whose acids form carbonates in the sys- 
tem, viz., citric, tartaric, acetic, lactic, and malic acids. 

Though not so good as when in their natural form, because less 
digestible and pleasant, yet a supply of citrates, tartrates, lactates, 
and malates of potash might be packed in small bulk, and, under 

1 In merchant-ships lime-juice is used during polar service in a ration of an ounce 
daily. See " Report " above cited. But the opinions of the officers examined seem to 
agree that the quantity is not sufficient, and adviie half as much again, or more. 



354 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

circumstances where weight is of importance, might take the place 
of lime-juice. Or bolo-lozenges might be made of lime-juice freed 
from its aqueous portion and preserved with sugar. Three or four 
of these a day might be easily swallowed without stopping work. 

Before leaving the subject of maritime scurvy, it may be sug- 
gested how useful it would be if those who sail in desolate regions 
were to carry seeds of antiscorbutic vegetables, which, strewed broad- 
cast in uninhabited places, would form a flora capable of saving the 
lives of many a wrecked or weather-bound crew. 

Scurvy, as landsmen see it in time of peace, amounts to little 
more than anaemia, with a softening and bleeding condition of the 
gums ; but it indicates the use of exactly the same preventives and 
remedies as the more severe complaint, 

Starvation is a disease which it is a platitude to say may be pre- 
vented by diet ; nevertheless there are connected with it a few pecul- 
iarities of scientific and practical interest which may not be unwor- 
thy of notice. " Inedia," as it is called in the nomenclature of 
diseases by the London College of Physicians, is of two kinds, aris- 
ing from want of food and from want of water. 

When entirely deprived of nutriment the human body is capable 
of supporting life under ordinary circumstances for little more than 
a week. In the spring of 1869 this was tried on the person of a 
" fasting girl " in South "Wales. The parents made a show of their 
child, decking her out like a bride cxn a bed, : and asserting that she 
had eaten no food f6r two years. Some reckless enthusiasts for 
truth set four trustworthy hospital nurses to watch her ; the Celtic 
obstinacy of the parents was roused, and in defense of their impost- 
ure they allowed death to take place in eight days. Their trial and 
conviction for manslaughter may be found in the daily periodicals of 
the date; but, strange to say, the experimental physiologists and 
nurses escaped scot-free. There is no doubt that in this instance the 
unnatural quietude, the grave-like silence, and the dim religious 
light in which the victim was kept, contributed to defer death. 

One thing which remarkably prolongs life is a supply of water. 
Dogs furnished with as much as they wished to drink were found 
by M. Chossat (" Sur PInanition," Paris, 1843) to live three times as 
long as those who were deprived of solids and liquids at the same 
time. Even wetting the skin with sea-water has been found useful 
by shipwrecked sailors. Four men and a boy of fourteen who got 



PROLONGING LIFE IN STARVATION. 355 

shut in Tynewydd mine, near Forth, in South Wales, in the winter 
of 18Y6-'77, for ten days without food, were not only alive when 
released, but several of them were able to walk, and all subsequently 
recovered. The thorough saturation of the narrow space with aque- 
ous vapor, and the presence of drain-water in the cutting, were 
probably their chief preservatives, assisted by the high, even tem- 
perature always found in the deeper headings of coal-mines, and by 
the enormous compression of the confined air. This, doubtless, pre- 
vented evaporation, and retarded vital processes dependent upon 
oxidation. The accumulation of carbonic acid in the breathed air 
would also have a similar arrestive power over destructive assimila- 
tion. These prisoners do not seem to have felt any of the severer 
pangs of hunger, for they were not tempted to eat their candles-. 
With the instinctive feeling that darkness adds a horror to death, 
they preferred to use them for light. 

It is a paradoxical fact that the supply of the stomach even from 
the substance of the starving individual's body should tend to pro- 
long life. In April, 1874, a case was recorded of exposure in an open 
boat for thirty-two days of three men and two boys, with only ten 
days' provisions, exclusive of old boots and jelly-fish. They had a 
fight in their delirium, and one was severely wounded. As the blood 
gushed out he lapped it up ; and instead of suffering the fatal weak- 
ness which might have been expected from the hemorrhage, he seems 
to have done well. Experiments have been performed by a French 
physiologist, M. Anselmier ("Archives Gen. de Medecine," 1860, 
vol. i., page 169), with the object of trying to preserve the lives of 
dogs by what he calls " artificial autophagy." He fed them on the 
blood taken from their own veins daily, depriving them of all other 
food, and he found that the fatal cooling incident to starvation was 
thus postponed and existence prolonged. Life lasted till the emacia- 
tion had proceeded to six-tenths of the animal's weight, as in Ohos- 
sat's experiments, extending to the fourteenth day, instead of ending 
on the tenth day, as was the case with other dogs which were not 
bled. 

These instances of the application of the art of dietetics to the 
treatment of disease are sufficient to show the principles which 
should be kept in sight. The pathology of the ailment should be 
considered first, then its bearing upon the digestive organs, and last- 
ly the bearing of the digestive organs upon it. 



356 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

And before quitting the subject of health as affected by diet, the 
common- sense hint may be given to those who are in good sanitary 
condition, that they cannot do better than let well alone. The most 
trustworthy security for future health is present health, and there 
is some risk of overthrowing Nature's work by overcaring. 

PLEASUEE AS AN OBJECT OF DIETETICS. 

The social importance of gratifying the palate has certainly never 
been denied in practice by any of the human race. Feasting has 
been adopted from the earliest times as the most natural expression 
of joy, and the readiest means of creating joy. If ascetics have 
seemed to put the pleasure away from them, they have done so in 
the hope of purchasing by their sacrifice something greater and 
nobler, and have thus tacitly conceded, if not exaggerated, its real 
value. Experience shows that its indulgence, unregulated by the 
laws which govern our progress in civilization, leads to unutterable 
degradation and meanness, brutalizes the mind, and deadens its per- 
ception of the repulsiveness of vice and crime. But that is no cause 
why this powerful motive power, governed by right reason, should 
not be made subservient to the highest purposes. 

The times of meals must be regulated with a regard to the dis- 
posal of the remainder of the day, whether that depends on choice 
or on necessity. Violent exertion of either mind or body retards 
digestion ; and, therefore, when this is practised, food is not called 
for so soon as on a day of rest. The heaviest meal should be post- 
poned till the day's work is done ; it is then that social home joys 
give the requisite repose to the body and mind. Light eaters may 
dine as late as they please, but those of larger appetite should 
lengthen the interval between their repast and bedtime. After 
the night's sleep and the long fast which has emptied the digestive 
canal of its nutritive contents, a breakfast should be taken before 
any of the real business of life be begun. It is no proof of health 
or vigor to forego it without inconvenience ; but it is a proof of 
health and vigor to be able to lay in then a solid foundation for the 
day's labor. Not less than four and not more than six hours should 
elapse before the store is again replenished. A light, farinaceous 
lunch, with vegetables and fruit, may be made most appetizing, and 
is followed by a cheerful afternoon, whereas a ponderous meat and 
wine meal entails heaviness of spirit. 



ECONOMICAL DIETETICS. 357 



DIET IN KELATION TO ECONOMY. 

Due Proportion of Animal and Vegetable Food. It has been 
taken for granted thus far that the mixed fare, which has met the 
approval of so many generations of men, is that which is most in 
accordance with reason. But there are physiologists who argue 
that our teeth resemble those of the vegetable-feeding apes more 
than those of any other class of animal, and that, therefore, our 
most appropriate food must be of the fruits of the earth. 1 And if 
we were devoid of the intelligence which enables us to fit food for 
digestion by cookery, it is probable no diet would suit us better. 
But our reason must not be left out of account, and it is surely quite 
as natural for a man to cook and eat everything that contains in a 
convenient form starch, fat, albumen, fibre, and phosphorus, as it is 
for a monkey to eat nuts or an ox grass. The human race is natu- 
rally omnivorous. 

Moreover, man is able not only to develop his highest faculties 
and perform all his duties on any form of digestive aliment, but he 
is able also very much to diminish the requisite quantities by a due 
admixture. The diet which supplies the demand most accurately 
will be the most economical in the highest sense ; and that this diet 
is a mixed one can be shown by the following method of calculation : 
We can measure by experiment the ultimate elements of all that is 
thrown off from the body as the result of vital decomposition the 
ashes, the smoke, and the gases, which the fire of life produces; 
and thus we can lay down a rule for the minimum quantity of those 
elements which the daily food must contain to keep up the standard 
weight. If the diet be such as to make it necessary to eat too much 
of one element in order to secure a sufficient amount of another, 
there is a waste, and the digestive viscera are burdened with a use- 
less load. But there is no single article procurable for the food of 
the adult population which presents the exact proportion of elements 
required by an adult, and therefore no single article alone can supply 
human wants without waste. 

As an example, apply this reckoning to the elements carbon and 
nitrogen, which constitute the main bulk of solids in our food and 
in our bodies. Suppose a gang of 100 healthy prisoners to excrete, in 

Milne-Edwards, " Cours de Physiologie," volume vi., page 198. 



358 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

the shape of breathed air and evacuations, 71 pounds of carbon and 
4^ pounds of nitrogen (which is pretty nearly the actual amount of 
those elements in the dried solids of the secreta, as estimated by cur- 
rent physiological works). Both nitrogen and carbon to that extent 
must of course be supplied in the food. Now, if you fed them on 
bread only, there would be wanted daily at least 380 pounds of it to 
sustain them alive long, for it takes that weight to yield the 4 
pounds of nitrogen daily excreted ; while in the 380 pounds of bread 
there are 128| pounds of carbon, which is 57 pounds above the 
needful quantity of that substance. 1 

If, on the other hand, the bread were replaced by a purely ani- 
mal diet, there would have to be found 354 pounds of lean meat in 
order to give the 71 pounds of carbon ; and thus there would be 
wasted 105 pounds of nitrogen contained in the meat, over and 
above the 44 pounds really required to prevent emaciation. 3 

In the first case, each man would be eating about 4 pounds of 
bread, in the second, 3 pounds of meat, per diem. If he ate less, 
he would lose his strength. The first would carry about with him a 
quantity of starch, and the last a quantity of albuminous matter, not 
wanted for nutrition, and would burden the system with a useless 
mass very liable to decompose and become noxious. 

When work is undertaken, much more is actually wanted. Ac- 
cording to Mr. Yizetelly, the laborer in a Spanish vineyard consumes 
daily between 8 and 9 pounds of vegetable food, consisting of bread, 
onion-porridge, and grapes. 3 And when animal food alone is taken, 
as in the case of the Esquimaux, 20 pounds of it a day is the usual 
allowance. 

Now, if a mixed dietary be adopted for the gang of 100 prisoners 
before mentioned, 200 pounds of farinaceous food, with 56 pounds 
of animal muscle, would fulfill the requirements of the case ; 2 pounds 



1 Dr. Letheby's analysis gives 8.1 per cent, of nitrogenous matter to bread (" Lectures 
on Food," page 6). Of this one-seventh is nitrogen, Boussingault's analysis of gluten giving 
14.60 per cent. (" Annales de China, et Phys.," Ixiii., 229). M. Payen makes the propor- 
tion of nitrogen to carbon in bread as 1 to 30. 

a The proportion of nitrogen to carbon in albumen is as 1 to 3$ (15.5 to 53.5 by Mulder's 
analysis, quoted in Lehmann, " Phys. Chemie," i., 343). In red meat there is 74 per cent 
of water (ditto, iii., 96). 

3 "Facts about Sherry," chapter!., 1876, and Sir John Boss's "Second Voyage for the 
Discovery of the Northwest Passage," page 418. 



PHYSIOLOGICAL BALANCE OF FOOD AND WORK. 359 

of bread and a little more than pound of meat a head would be 
enough, under ordinary circumstances, for each man's daily food. 

200 pounds of bread contains ' 60 ot carbon, 2 of nitrogen. 

60 pounds of meat (including 12$ pounds of fat on it) contains. 12 " " 2J " " 

72 4} 

Balance of Food and Work. The most important modification to 
be made in the above estimate arises from the differences of work 
demanded. Men may exist in inaction on a scale of food-supply 
which is followed by death from starvation when they are put to 
hard labor. It is of importance, therefore, to have some measure of 
the effects of physical exertion. And here mechanical science has 
contributed to physiology a precision rarely attainable in our dealings 
with social economy. Mr. Joule, of Manchester, analyzed, about 
thirty years ago, the relation which the heat, used as a source of 
power in machinery, bore to the force of motion thus made active. 
He showed that raising the temperature of 1 pound of water 1 
Fahr. was equivalent to raising 772 pounds to the height of 1 foot ; 
and conversely, that the fall of 772 pounds might be so applied as to 
heat 1 pound of water 1 Fahr. Thus, the mechanical work repre- 
sented in lifting 772 pounds 1 foot, or 1 pound 772 feet, forms the 
"dynamic equivalent," the measure of the possible strength of 1 
of temperature as marked by the thermometer in 1 pound of water. 
Physiologists seized eagerly on the opportunity which Joule's dem- 
onstration seemed to afford them of estimating in actual numerals 
the relation of living bodies to the work they hav to do. So much 
earth raised on an embankment represents so much heat developed 
in the machinery, be it living or dead. The fully digested food, con- 
verted through several stages into gaseous, liquid, and solid excre- 
tory matters, produces by its chemical changes a definite amount of 
heat, of which a definite amount escapes, and a definite amount is 
employed in working the involuntary machinery of the body, and 
the rest is available for conversion at will into voluntary muscular 
actions. 

It may be reckoned that the daily expenditure of force in work- 
ing the machinery of the body in raising the diaphragm about 15 
times and contracting the heart about 60 times a minute, in con- 
tinuously rolling the wave of the intestinal canal, and in various 
other involuntary movements, without anything to be fairly called 



360 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

work it may be reckoned that the expenditure of force in doing 
this is equal to that which would raise a man of 10 stone 10,000 feet. 

There are several reasons for believing that, in assigning their 
physiological functions to the several sorts of food, nearly all the 
business of begetting force should be ascribed to the solid hydro- 
carbons, starch and oil, by their conversion into carbonic acid and 
water, just as there are good grounds for thinking that it is the con- 
version of the solid hydrocarbon of coal into the same substances 
which drives a locomotive. To the nitrogenous aliments seems al- 
lotted primarily the task of continuously replacing the wear and tear 
of the nitrogenous tissues, while any excess of them assists the starch 
and oil in keeping up the animal heat. 

One of the most cogent of the reasons for this view is that the 
chief nitrogenous excretion, the urea, is not increased in amount in 
proportion to the work done, as shown by the experiments of Messrs. 
Fink and Wiscelenus; whereas the excretion of carbonic acid in a 
decided manner follows the amount of muscular exertion. Now, it 
is very clear that, if the supply of power to do work depended on 
the decomposition and renewal of the muscles by flesh food, the 
urea must be exactly proportioned to the exertion, which is not the 
case. 

To give an example of the mode of working out a problem by 
this theory: Prof. Frankland, in a series of experiments made in 1866 
at the Royal Institution, and published in the London Philosophical 
Magazine, vol. xxxii., p. 182, ascertains with the "calorimeter" 
(which reckons the amount of heat evolved as a thermometer does 
its degree) the quantity of energy or force evolved under the form of 
heat during the oxidation of a given weight of alimentary substance. 
It has been explained that heat and mechanical work, being con- 
vertible into one another, bear a constant proportion to one another ; 
so that a definite production of so much heat invariably represents the 
potentiality of so much motion, used or wasted according to circum- 
stances. From the reading of the calorimeter, therefore, may be 
calculated how many extra pounds ought to be raised a foot high by 
a man who has eaten an extra pound of the food in question; how 
many steps a foot high he ought to raise a weight of ten stone (say 
himself) before he has worked out the value of his victuals. Prof. 
Frankland has thus estimated the comparative value of foods as bases 
of muscular exertion, and he has made out a table of the weight and 



DIETETIC EQUIVALENTS. 



361 



cost of various articles that would require to be consumed daily to 
enable a man to support life, the equivalent of which has been al- 
ready reckoned as the muscular force in action which would raise a 
man of 10 stone 10,000 feet. 



NAME OP FOOD. 


Weight in Pounds 
required. 


Price per Pound. 


Cort. 




1.156 


s. d. 
10 


8. d. 

o IH 




5.068 


1 


5i 




7.815 


H 


llf 


Oatmeal 


1.281 


2J 


i 


jriour . . 


1.311 


2* 


o at 




1.335 


o si 


o 4 




1.341 


4 


5* 




1 28T 


1 


1 8* 


Bread 


2.345 


2 


4 




3532 


1 


8 6} 




4300 


1 


4 8i 


Lean ham (boiled) 


8001 


1 6 


4 6 


Mackerel 


8124 


8 


2 1 


Whiting . 


6.369 


1 4 


9 4 


White of egg 


8.745 


6 


4 4* 


Hard-boiled e^g 


2209 


6J 


1 If 




1.377 


16 


22 Oi 


Milk 


8.021 


21 


1 8 




9665 


1* 


1 2* 


Cabbage 


12 020 


1 


1 Ot 




0735 


1 6 


1 if 


Butter 


0.693 


1 6 


1 0* 


Beef fat . . 


0.555 


10 


5* 


Cod-liver oil 


0.553 


3 6 


1 Hi 




1.505 


6 


9 




1 537 


3* 


5t 


Bass's pale ale (bottled) 
Guinness's stout 


9 bottles. 
6f bottles. 


10 
10 


7 6 
5 7* 











After the supply of sufficient albuminoid matters in the food, to 
provide for the necessary renewal of the tissues, the best materials 
for the production of internal and external work are non-nitrogenous 
matters, such as oil, fat, sugar, starch, gum, etc. "When the work is 
increased, not so much extra meat as vegetable food, or its dietetic 
equivalent, fat, is demanded. 

In comparing the cost of a daily sufficiency of the various foods 
to produce the required force, we must not forget the inconveniences 
which many of them entail. These inconveniences must be added to 
the cost. For example, suppose a man to have been living upon po- 
tatoes only, just supporting life with 5 pounds a day, and then to get 
work which enabled him and required him to take a double supply 
of non-nitrogenous food, he would act unwisely if he were to swal- 



362 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

low it in the form of 12 pounds of cabbage. He would be knocked 
up by the sheer labor of carrying 12 pounds extra in a vessel so ill- 
adapted to. sustain heavy loads as the stomach. A similar objection 
would lie against milk or veal or apples, however cheap accident 
might make them ; and a more serious objection still would hold 
against nine bottles of ale, or seven of stout. On the other hand, the 
over-concentration of cheese, beef dripping, and lump sugar, makes 
them nauseous when in large quantity or monotonously persisted in, 
though when introduced as a variety they are appetizing and digesti- 
ble. There is no saving in using that against which the stomach is 
set, or which the absorbents refuse to assimilate. 

Ke verting to the illustration of the gang of 100 prisoners, and 
supposing it were requisite to put them on hard labor equivalent to 
half " Frarikland's unit " of 10 stone raised 10,000 feet such, for in- 
stance, as carrying up ladders, altogether 1 mile high, 3 tons of 
stone daily calculation would show that to add this amount of 
labor to the outgoings caused by the functioning of physiological life 
would involve the addition to their spare diet of at least 117 pounds 
of bread, or of 58 pounds of bread with 44 pounds of lean meat and 
63 pounds of potatoes. The slightest imperfection or indigestion of 
any of this would cause a loss of bodily weight, and cases of illness 
would be culpably frequent. "Were a draught of milk, or a cup of 
cocoa and sugar, or some oatmeal porridge and treacle, or even a 
little dripping or butter or bacon, given, the danger would probably 
be averted. 

The most conspicuous fault in the dietary of the working classes 
is want of variety. Many of the articles which combine ample nutri- 
tiousness with small cost are habitually neglected, because, when used 
exclusively, they are disagreeable and unwholesome. From never 
being eaten they become absolutely unknown. There are many sorts 
of cheap beans, vetches, and peas, unheard of except at gentlemen's 
tables, of which a complete meal may be made, or which may sup- 
port the dish of meat; while beet-root, cresses, kail, carrots, and 
other plants easily grown, are left unused. 

Quantity of Food required. The calculations of Dr. PI ay fair 
" on the food of man in relation to his useful work " 1 enable us, by 
another route, to arrive at an estimate of what amount of solid 

1 Lectures delivered at the Eoyal Institution, London, April 28, 1865. 



QUANTITY OF FOOD REQUIRED. 303 

victuals is required by an adult living by bodily labor to preserve his 
health under various circumstances. The circumstances which chiefly 
affect the question can be classified thus: (1) bare existence; (2) 
moderate exercise ; (3) active work ; and (4) hard work. 

1. The first is calculated from the mean of sundry prison dietaries, 
of the convalescents' diet at hospitals, that of London needlewomen, 
and of that supplied during the Lancashire cotton famine, as reported 
by Mr. Simon. The result is that, in a condition of low health, with- 
out activity, 2J ounces of nitrogenous food, 1 ounce of fat, 12 ounces 
of starch, and J of an ounce of mineral matters a day are necessary. 
The amount of carbon in this is equal to 7.44 ounces. In other 
words, a man's life will be shortened or burdened by disease in the 
future, or he will die of gradual starvation, unless his provision for a 
week is equivalent to three pounds of meat with one pound of fat on 
it, or with the same quantity of butter or lard, two quartern loaves 
of bread, and about an ounce of salt and other condiments. If he 
cannot get meat, he must supply its place with at least two extra 
quartern loaves, or about a stone and a half of potatoes, or between 
five and six pounds of oatmeal, unless lie is, indeed, so fortunate as 
to be able to get skim milk, of which five pints a week will replace 
the meat. 

A person reduced to bare existence diet can undertake no habitual 
toil, mental or bodily, under the penalty of breaking down. 

" Bare existence " diet is that which requires to be estimated for 
administration to certain classes of the community who have a claim 
on their fellow-countrymen that their lives and health shall be pre- 
served in statu quo, but nothing further. Such are prisoners, pau- 
pers, or the members of a temporarily famine-stricken community. 

It would be obviously unjust to apply the same scale of quantity 
and quality to all persons under varying circumstances of constitu- 
tion and outward surroundings ; and to attempt to feed in the same 
way all these people for short or long periods, idle or employed, 
with light work or hard work, in hot or in cold weather, excited by 
hope or depressed by failure, involves an error of either excess or 
defect, or both at once. The dietaries recommended by the Home 
Office for prisoners very properly take all these circumstances into 
consideration. They allot "bare existence " diet only to those sen- 
tenced for short terms without labor. And they recognize the fact 
that a man's health is not injured (perhaps sometimes it is improved) 



364 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

by a few days of such abstinence as would in the long-run be dele- 
terious to him. Under a sentence of seven days, a prisoner gets 
daily one pound of bread and a quart of gruel containing four ounces 
of oatmeal. For more than seven and under twenty-one days, he 
has an extra half pound of bread. For longer terms it is advised to 
add potatoes and meat. 

The nutritive value of the first-named diet is thus calculated by 
Dr. Pavy ("Treatise on Food," page 415) : 

Nitrogenous matter 1.800 ounce. 

Fat 480 " 

Carbohydrates 10.712 " 

Of the second : 

Nitrogenous matter 2.448 ounces. 

Fat 608 " 

Carbohydrates 14.792 " 

In the convict establishments prisoners are all under long sen- 
tences, and are classified for dietetic purposes according to their 
occupation. 

The sparest of all is called " punishment diet," and is administered 
for offenses against the internal discipline of the prison. It is equiv- 
alent to corporeal chastisement, being designed to make the stomach 
a source of direct pain. It is limited to a period of three days, and 
fully answers its purposed end as a deterrent by causing the solar 
plexus to experience the greatest amount of distress it is capable of ; 
for after the expiration of that period sensation becomes blunted. 
It consists of one pound of bread and as much water as the prisoner 
chooses to drink. This last-named concession is not an unimportant 
one ; for it has been already remarked that a supply of fluid enables 
starvation, and by implication abstinence, to be longer borne. At 
the same time, it probably postpones the anesthesia, and therefore 
makes the intended suffering more real. "Punishment diet" con- 
tains, in 'Dr. Pavy's estimate : 

Nitrogenous matter 1.296 ounce. 

Carbohydrates 8.160 " 

Fat 0.256 " 

Mineral matter 0.368 " 



Total of dry solids 10.080 



GOVERNMENT DIETARIES. 365 

This is about half of what an average man requires to sustain him- 
self without work, and under its discipline he would probably lose 
three or four ounces of his weight daily till his bodily substance was 
reduced by six-tenths, at which period, according to Ohossat's exper- 
iments, he would die. 

" Penal diet " is that which is apportioned for more protracted 
punishment. It may be continued for three months. It consists of 
20 ounces of bread, 8 ounces of oatmeal, 20 ounces of milk, and 16 
ounces of potatoes daily. Its chemical constituents are as follows : 

Nitrogenous matter 8.TS4 ounces. 

Carbohydrates 19.864 " 

Fat 1-580 

Mineral matter 0.972 

Total of dry solids , 2C.200 " 



Upon this diet a fair amount of work may be done. The 
combustion of the carbohydrates evolves sufficient force to raise a 
ton 4,193 feet; and thus the effete muscular substance may be worn 
off by destructive assimilation, making place for new muscle derived 
from the nitrogenous matter, of which a bare sufficiency, but yet 
probably a sufficiency, is supplied. A man of strong constitution is 
usually found at the end of it to be in good health and of normal 
weight ; yet he has never probably experienced the content which 
arises from a luxus consumption of food. It is intended to deny him 
the normal pleasure of the accumulation of reserve force in the gas- 
tric region. This pleasurable sensation under ordinary circumstances 
much promotes digestion, so that the whole of the ingesta are made 
the best use of; and therefore in " penal diet," as above quoted, it 
has been found expedient to introduce the slight excess to be no- 
ticed above what is needful to accomplish the required work in 
"foot-tons" (see before). The penalty of the regimen involves a 
certain degree of waste. 

A close imitation of " penal diet " is that which the duty of a 
responsible government demands should be served out during a tem- 
porary famine, that is, one calculated not to last above three months. 
It is more economical to introduce the elements of variety in the 
diet than to be too monotonous that is, to save in the daily issue 
and to be occasionally liberal, to feast from time to time as a break 



366 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

in the regular fast. The expense of the excess is more than replaced 
by the diminished habitual ration, and that powerful preservative of 
life, anticipation of pleasure, is brought into play. A reduction of 
the allowance below what experience has indicated as " bare exist- 
ence diet," made during the famine in Madras in the beginning of 
1877, was attended with disastrous results. 

By dint of mixing and varying his diet, and making it consist 
of very nutritious articles, such as bread, meat, yolk of eggs, and 
soup, Signor Oornaro succeeded in reducing the quantity he daily 
consumed to as little as 12 ounces (Venetian). But then he made 
the solids go much farther by the addition of 14 ounces of good 
wine. And the probability is that this gentleman had a peculiar 
constitution, for, in spite of his many readers, he has had no imi- 
tators of the experiment on their own persons. 

2. The appropriate food of the second class may be fairly repre- 
sented by the dietaries of European soldiers in time of peace. The 
English soldier on home service, according to Dr. Parkes, receives 
from Government 5 J pounds of meat and 7 pounds of bread weekly, 
and buys additional bread, vegetables, milk, and groceries out of his 
pay. Such a diet is sufficient for anybody under ordinary circum- 
stances of regular light occupation ; but should extra demands be 
made upon mind or body, weight is lost, and, if the demands continue 
to be made, the health will suffer. Mr. F. Buckland, surgeon in 
the Guards, remarks (Society of Arts Journal, 1863, quoted by Dr. 
Playfair) that, though the sergeants in the Guards fatten upon their 
rations, the quantity is not enough for recruits during their drill. 

The Prussian soldier during peace gets weekly from his canteen 
11 pounds 1 ounce of rye bread and not quite 2 pounds of meat. 
This is obviously insufficient, but under the conscription system it is 
reckoned that he will be a.ble to make up the deficiency out of his 
own private means, or obtain charitable contributions from his 
friends. Dr. Hildesheim (" Die Normal-Diat," Berlin, 1856, page 60) 
states that asthenic diseases are very common in the army, which 
leads to the inference that the chance assistance on which the author- 
ities lean is not trustworthy. As the legal ration in these two ser- 
vices does not profess to be a man's full food, it is needless to analyze 
it. In the French infantry of the line, each man during peace gets 
weekly 15 pounds of bread, 3 T 8 o- pounds of meat, 2|- pounds of haricot 
beans or other vegetables, with salt and pepper, and If ounce of 



ECONOMICAL DIETARIES. 367 

brandy. This seems to be enough to support a man under light 
employment. Its analysis gives : 

Water 179.83 ounces. 

Nitrogenous matter (or albuminates) 30. 17 " 

Fat 9.29 " 

Carbohydrates (or starch) 12684 " 

Total of dry solids 166.30 " 

An Austrian under the same circumstances receives 13.9 pounds 
of bread, pound of flour, and 3.3 pounds of meat. The alimentary 
contents are : 



Water , 129.50 ounces. 

Nitrogenous matter 27.40 " 

Fat 8.23 M 

Carbohydrates 119.45 * 

Total of dry solids 155.08 ** 

The Eussian conscript is allowed weekly : l 

Black bread 7 pounds. 

Meat 7 pounds. 

Kawass (beer)..'. 7.7 quarts. 

Sour cabbage 24$ gills 122$ ounces. 

Barle 7 24$ gills 122$ ounces. 

Salts 10$ ounces. 

Horse-radish 28 grains. 

P e PP er 28 grains. 

Vinegar 5Jgills-26$ ounces. 

The " moderate exercise " of brain and muscle combined in the 
above classes is fairly represented in the convict scale by "light 
labor " (such as oakum picking) and by " industrial employment " 
(such as tailoring, cobbling, Roman mosaic and mat making, basket 
weaving, etc.). The dietary for prisoners thus engaged is nearly 
identical, except that the artisans using their brains are supplied 
with about an ounce extra daily. 

The " industrial employment diet " for a week is thus analyzed 
by Dr. Pavy: 

1 " Report of Sanitary Commission," 1853, p. 425, quoted by Dr. Parkes. 



DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 



WEEKLY ALLOWANCE. 


Nitrogenous 
Matter. 


Carbohy- 
drates. 


Fat. 


Mineral 
Matter. 


Total Water- 
free Matter. 


Cocoa 


Ounces. 

3.500 
14.000 
28.000 
7.000 


Ounces. 

0.560 
1.764 
1.148 


Ounces. 

1.540 

8.932 
1.456 
5 390 


Ounces. 

1.295 

0.784 
1.092 


Ounces. 

0.105 
0.420 
0.224 


Ounces. 

8.500 
11.900 
3.920 
5.390 
3.500 
0.850 
93.240 
2.52S 
7.331 

7.360 

4.080 
1.274 
0.170 

0.270' 
0.090 
24.000 


Oatmeal 


Milk 


Molasses 


Salt 


3.500 
1.000 
148.000 
4.000 
8.625 

16.000 

8.000 
1.500 
1.000 
3.000 
1.000 
96.000 








3.500 
0.020 
3.404 
0.216 
0.147 

0.472 

2.072 
0.030 
0.010 
0.018 
0.006 
0.672 


Barley 


0.063 
11.988 
1.340 
0.931 

4.416 

1.688 


0.743 
75.480 


0.024 
2.363 
0.972 
0.172 

2.472 

0.320 
1.244 

O.U02 


Bread 


Cheese 


Flour 


6.081 


Meat (cooked with- > 
out bone or gravy), f 
Shins (made into soup). 
Suet 




Carrots 


0.013 
0.036 
0.012 
2.016 


0.145 
0.216 
0.072 
21.120 


Onions 


Turnips 




Potatoes 


0.192 


Total water-free m 


itter 


25.975 


121.175 


10.987 


11.316 


169. 4U3 



This is probably a fair model for the most economical dietary on 
which an artisan or laborer on light work can thrive. It may be 
observed that the principle of variety is very conspicuous, and in 
private life it is possible to introduce still more variety by cook- 
ery. In the English and Prussian armies the introduction of va- 
riety is left to be attained by forcing the soldier to purchase some 
portion of his food out of his own pocket ; in the French scale it 
is managed by issuing spices and various vegetables, and trusting 
to the innate genius of the Gaulish warrior for cooking. The issue 
of an occasional glass of brandy on holidays makes an agreeable 
change and benefits digestion; but if wine could be obtained it would 
be better and not extravagant. The Austrian bill of fare is sadly 
monotonous. The Russian ration may be noticed as particularly 
liberal of accessory and antiscorbutic food, from which civil as well 
as military dieticians might take a useful hint. Vinegar and other 
vegetable acids are too much neglected by our handicraftsmen and 
soldiers. The Carthaginians are stated by Aristotle to have used 
vinegar as a substitute for wine during their campaigns ; and the 
recipes given by Cato for flavoring vinegar with fruits show that it 
was in use among tke laboring population in Italy. 

3. "Active" laborers are those who get through such an amount 
of work daily, exclusive of Sundays, as may be represented by a walk 



HARD-LABOR DIET. 



369 



of twenty miles. In this class are soldiers during a campaign, letter- 
carriers, and engineers employed on field-work or as artisans. These 
habitually consume on the average about a fifth more nitrogenous 
food and twice as much fat as the last class, while the quantity of 
vegetable hydrocarbons is not augmented, except in the Koyal Engi- 
neers. 

The " hard-labor diet " of convict prisons fairly represents what 
the authorities consider the minimum. It is the same as that already 
described as "industrial-employment diet," with the following addi- 
tions: barley, one ounce; bread, twenty ounces; shins for soup, 
eight ounces; carrots, one ounce; onions, one-half ounce; turnips, 
one ounce. It contains, however, fourteen ounces less milk and one 
ounce less " meat." 

The nutritive value of the additions may be seen by Dr. Pavy's 
alimentary analysis, which is as follows : 



WEEKLY ADDITIONS. 




Nitroge- 
nous 
Matter. 


Carbo- 
hydrates. 


Fat. 


Mineral 
Matter. 


Total 
Water-free 
Matter. 


Barley 


Ounces. 
1 000 


0.063 


0.743 


0.024 


020 


O.S50 


Bread. 


20.000 


1.620 


10.280 


0.320 


0.460 


12.CSO 


Shins 


8.01)0 


1.688 




0.320 


2.072 


4.060 


Carrots 


1 000 


0.013 


6.145 


0.002 


0.010 


0.170 


Onions .... 


0.500 


0.006 


0.086 




0.003 


O.C45 


Turnips 


1 000 


0.012 


0.072 




0.006 


0.090 
















Total water-free matter 




3.402 


11.276 


0.666 


2.571 


17.915 

















From these totals must be deducted the articles cut off: 



WEEKLY DIMINUTIONS. 




Nitroge- 
nous 
Matter. 


Carbo- 
hydrates. 


Fat. 


Mineral 
Matter. 


Total 
Water-free 
Matter. 


Milk 


14.000 


0.574 


0.728 


0.546 


0.112 


1.900 


Meat 


1 000 


0.276 




0.154 


0.030 


0.4GO 
















Total water-free matter 




850 


728 


700 


0.142 


2.420 

















The same food must be given summer and winter, though the de- 
mand must be greater to provide for the extra quantity of heat re- 
quired to be produced in cold weather. But then the amount of 



370 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. 

work is diminished at the latter season by If- hours, which is equiva- 
lent to an augmentation of the diet. The additions are more judi- 
cious than those made by the classes above mentioned, who partly 
furnish their own food ; for bread and vegetables constitute a large 
portion of the convict ration, and the extra quantity of soup replaces 
the lost milk, without risk of the waste in cooking, common when 
the uneducated deal with solid meat. 

4. " Hard work " is that got through by English navvies, hard- 
worked weavers, and blacksmiths, etc., which is more earnest and in- 
tense than the enforced " hard labor " of the convict. It is difficult 
to obtain accurate information, but it would appear from Dr. Play- 
fair's estimates that the customary addition to the diet is entirely in 
nitrogenous constituents. The higher their wages, the more meat the 
men eat. 

The neglect of vegetables by the last two classes is, in a physio- 
logical point of view, imprudent, and possibly may be a contributing 
cause of an inordinate thirst for alcohol which impoverishes and de- 
grades many among them. To satisfy their instinctive craving for a 
hydrocarbon, they take one convenient, indeed, in some respects, 
but of which any excess is unwholesome. The discovery already 
mentioned of the production of force from the assimilation of starch 
leads to a knowledge, opposed to old prejudices but supported by ex- 
perience, that the raising of the energies to their full height of use- 
fulness may be effected by vegetable food quite as well as by the 
more stimulating and more expensive animal nutriment, or by the 
more rapidly absorbed alcohol. 

With regard to the tables quoted above, in which ultimate analy- 
ses are used as data for dietetic rules, it must be noticed that their 
authors deprecate arguments being founded on any but the very 
broadest characters of the articles analyzed. Specimens, even when 
of the highest quality, differ strangely from one another. Season, soil, 
modes of culture, the variations of species, and many other little- 
known influences, come into play and prevent our taking the market 
names of eatables as representatives of a definite chemical constitu- 
tion. And it may be added that ample scope should be allowed for 
the peculiarities of the individual and of his life-history. In the ap- 
plication of general rules, some one must be trusted to relax or strain 
them when circumstances require, or failures of a fatal character may 
occasionally result, and more often a galling perversion of justice. 



CARE IN REDUCING THE DIET. 371 

Estimates for the thrifty management of food-supply have usually 
reference to the feeding of others rather than to the calculation of 
a man's own dietary. Enough has been said on that point under the 
head of the influence of diet upon health; and if a person really 
wants to bring down the expense of feeding himself to the lowest 
point, he can readily rate himself under one of the classes enumer- 
ated above, and act accordingly. It may, however, be doubted 
whether it is wise to reduce the diet to the minimum which the work 
requires. The certain evils of an accidental deficiency, or of a mis- 
calculation, are so serious that the danger outweighs the possible in- 
convenience of a slight excess. It were an unthrifty thrift, indeed, 
which imperiled vigor of mind and body to effect a pecuniary sav- 
ing ; for there is no investment so remunerative as high health. A 
man need not consider that he is wasteful when he spends money 
upon making his bill of fare palatable and provocative of indulgence 
to the extent of moderate superfluity. Pleasure and prudence here 
walk hand in hand. 



LIST OF UTENSILS REQUIRED IN A FIRST-CLASS 
SCHOOL-KITCHEN. 



8 copper stewpans, varying in size from 3 

pints to 3 quarts. 
3 enameled stewpans, sizes from 1 pint to 2 

quarts. 

1 copper saute-pan ; 12 iron saucepans, sizes 
from 1 pint to 2 gallons. 

Iron pot for boiling. 

Stock-pot, to hold 8 quarts. 

Frying-pan. 

Iron omelet-pan, tinned. 

Fish-kettle, sheet-iron and tin. 

Frying basket and pan. 

Copper preserving-pan. 

2 gridirons. 

Tin oven and roasting-jack. 

Steamer and saucepan. 

Weights and scales, to weigh from $ ounce 
to 14 Ibs. 

Coffee-mill; 1 marble mortar and hard- 
wood pestle. 

6 kitchen knives ; 8 kitchen forks. 

12 iron spoons ; 6 wooden spoons, various 
sizes. 

1 fish-slice ; 1 egg-slice. 

Slarding-needles; 1 trussing-needle. 

1 set of skewers ; 1 corkscrew. 

1 flour-dredger ; 1 sugar-dredger. 

1 pasteboard ; 1 chopping-board. 

1 rolling-pin ; 1 steak-pounder. 

1 chopper; 1 saw. 

1 box of fluted cutters; 1 box of round cutters. 

1 box of vegetable cutters. 

1 egg -whisk ; 1 grater. 

2 flour-tubs, or 1 double bin. 

2 cake-tins; 1 coffee-pot (French), to hold 8 
pints. 



2 block-tin jelly-moulds, sizes 1 pint and 1 

quart. 
2 white china moulds, sizes 1 pint and 1 

quart. 

1 iron kettle, to hold 3 quarts ; 8 baking- 
sheets. 

2 square pudding-tins, sizes 1 pint and 1 
quart. 

2 tart-pans, and 12 patty-pans. 

2 soufll6-tins, sizes 1 pint and 1 quart. 

2 strainers, for gravy, etc. ; 1 silk sieve. 

2 wire sieves ; 4 hair sieves, various sizes. 
1 seasoning-box ; 1 spice-box. 

1 tin colander ; toasting-fork. 

1 paste-brush ; 1 steel. 

1 string-box and scissors ; 1 basting-ladle. 

1 jelly-bag and stand; 1 tammy cloth. 

6 pudding-basins, sizes from pint to 8 
pints. 

12 basins (8 common), sizes from 1 quart to 
4 quarts, and 4 lip-basins, from 1 quart to 
1 gallon. 

6 dishes ; 6 pie-dishes, sizes from 1 pint to 2 
quarts. 

24 plates; 1 salting-plate, to hold 3 or 4 gal- 
lons. 

1 bread-pan and cover; 1 cheese-pan and 
cover. 

3 iron trivets, various sizes. 

1 black-board for lectures, size about 5 feet 

by 4 feet. 
Kitchen-range. 
Gas-stove. 
Salamander. 
Kitchen-paper. 

Cost, about 52. 



374: 



LIST OF UTENSILS REQUIRED. 



IN A SECOND-CLASS SCHOOL-KITCHEN. 



5 iron saucepans and covers, sizes 1 pint, H 
pint, 1 quart, 1 quart, and 4 quarts. 

1 iron saucepan and steamer. 

gridiron. 

frying-pan. 

iron kettle. 

tin colander. 

square pudding-tin. 

baking-tin. 

pasteboard. 
1 rolling-pin. 

1 tin roasting-oven and ladle. 
1 coal-scuttle. 
1 coal-shovel. 
1 cinder-sieve. 
1 set fire-irons. 

6 iron spoons. 

6 knives and forks. 

8 wooden spoons. 

6 tea-spoons. 

6 basins, various sizes. 

8 pudding-basins. 

8 pie-dishes. 

6 dishes, various sizes. 



12 meat-plates. 

Seasoning-box. 

1 toasting-fork. 

1 dust-pan. 

1 salt-cellar ; 1 pepper-box. 

1 mustard-pot and spoon. 

1 hand-bowl 

1 steel. 

1 dish-tub. 

2 brown pans. 
8 jugs. 

1 meat-saw. 

1 chopper. 

Scales and weights. , 

1 corkscrew. . 

1 grater. 

1 coffee-pot ; 1 tea-pot. 

1 cake-tin. 

1 flour-tub. 

Black-board for lectures, size about 5 feet by 

4 feet. 
Small range. 

Cost, about 12. 



LIST OF MATERIALS AND UTENSILS REQUIRED FOR 
CLEANING. 



1 pail, wooden. 
Scrubbing-brush. 

Set of black-lead brushes. 

Sweep's brush. 

Flue-brush (supplied with range). 

Sink-brush. 

Sieve-brush. 

Dust-pan and brush. 

Broom (hair). 

2 tubs. 

1 hearthstone. 
1 box of black-lead. 
Whitening. 
Kotten -stone. 
Bath brick-dust 



J quire emery-cloth. 

6 Ibs. of soda. 

1 bar of scrubbing-soap. 

Sand. 

Salt. 

White chalk. 

1 yard of house flannel. 

1 leather. 

1 pair of gloves. 

1 coal-shovel. 

1 cinder-sifter. 

1 dust-pan and coal-hammer. 

1 coal-scuttle. 

1 set of fire-irons. 

Cost, about 3. 



INDEX. 



A-la-mode beef. 54 

Alcoholic liquids in severe exertion 841 

Alexandra pudding Puddings 211 

Amber pudding Puddings 207 

Anchovy sauce Fish 144 

Apple charlotte Puddings , 199 

jelly Jellies 246 

Apples and tapioca Puddings 223 

Apple turnovers and dumplings of short 

crust Pastry 192 

water Sick-Boom Cookery 297 

Arrow-root, cup of Sick-Room Cookery 294 

Aspic jelly from calves' feet Jellies 237 

Australian meat 808 

Bacon, rolls of -Entrees 41 

Baked batter and fruit Puddings 226 

fish in vinegar 153 

mackerel or herring Fish 151 

potatoes Vegetables 160 

stuffed haddock Fish 152 

Baking meat 10 

Balance of food and work 859 

Barley-water (clear) Sick-Eoom Cook- 
ery 296 

(thick) Sick-Eoom Cookery 296 

Batter and fruit, baked Puddings 226 

pudding, boiled Puddings 214 

pudding in a cup Puddings 216 

Beans, haricot Vegetables 172 

Beef, a-la-mode Stews 54 



PAGE 

Beef, a-la-mode Soups 123 

braised fillets of-Entrees 84 

essence Sick-Eoom Cookery 292 

olives Entrees 45 

steak pie 74 

steak pudding 76 

steak pudding Pastry 190 

stewed brisket of Stews 58 

tea, Liebig's quick Sick-Eoom 

Cookery 306 

tea Sick-Eoom Cookery 804 

Biscuits, milk 282 

oatmeal 283 

Blanc-mange Puddings 213 

Boiled batter Puddings 214 

- cauliflower - Vegetables 167 

cod-Fish 147 

fish 155 

fowl 99 

mutton and parsley sauce Sick- 
Eoom Cookery 803 

new potatoes Vegetables 158 

pig's head, salted 80 

potatoes Vegetables 157 

rice... ..174 



rice Tripe 61 

sheep's head 88 

tripe with milk and onions Tripe. 62 

turbot Fish 132 

Boiling meat 7 

Bonne femme Soups 112 



376 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Braised fillet of veal 66 

fillet of beef Entrees 84 

Bran tea Sick-Eoom Cookery 300 

Brawn, boiled pig's head 82 

Brazilian stew Stews 56 

Bread 28T 

pudding Puddings 219 

sauce Boast Fowl 98 

unfermented 289 

Bright's disease, diet in 349 

Brisket of beef (cold), stewed Stews . . 58 

Broiled salmon Fish 149 

steak 72 

Broth, Dr. Kitchener's Soups 124 

mutton Sick-Eoom Cookery. 301, 303 

from sheep's head 91 

Brown -bread pudding Puddings 209 

puree of canned meat 311 

sauce Sauces 179 

stock 104 

Browned sheep's head 91 

Brussels sprouts Vegetables 165 

Buns 279 

rice 281 

Bullock's heart, stuffed and roasted 68 

Butter, clarifying Frying 12 

Cabbage, pickled 267 

soup Soups 127 

Cabinet pudding Puddings 197 

pudding (cold) -Puddings 228 

Cakes corn-starch cake 274 

dough cake 275 

German pound cake 270 

plain cake 271 

plum cake 273 

rock cake 277 

seed cake 272 

Shrewsbury cake 276 

Sultana cake 269 

Canned Meat SOS 

brown pur6e 311 

curried rabbit 315 

fricassee of mutton 318 

: Irish stew 312 

mince 324 

mulligatawny 807 

pie 317 

rissoles. . . 820 



PAGE 
Canned Meats sausage rolls .......... 313 

- savory hash ...................... 822 

Caramel (browned sugar) Canned 

Meats .............................. 812 

Carrot pudding Puddings ............ 210 

Carrots Vegetables ................... 174 

Carrots and turnips Vegetables ....... 166 

Cauliflower au gratin Vegetables ..... 168 

- boiled Vegetables ............... 167 

Charlotte russe Creams .............. 253 

Chaudfroid of chicken Entrees ........ 38 

Cheese with macaroni ................. 176 

- souffle Souffles ................... 258 

- straws ................ ........... 264 



Chicken broth Sick-Eoom Cookery... 292 

- chaudfroid of Entrees ........... 88 

- fricassee Entries ................ 42 

- croquettes or rissoles of Entries. 50 

- panada Sick-Eoom Cookery ..... 291 
Clarifying butter Frying ............. 12 

- dripping Frying ................ 12 

- fat Frying ........... . .......... 12 

Cleaning a range ...................... ' 1 

- a copper stewpan ................. 4 

- a gas-stove ...................... 8 

- an enameled stewpan ............. 4 

- an iron saucepan ................. 8 

Clear soup Soups .................... 107 

Cod, boiled Fish ..................... 147 

Cold cabinet pudding Puddings ....... 228 

- chicken, fricassee of Entr6es ..... 44 

- meat, curry ...................... 22 

- meat, fried rissolea ............... 24 

- meat, goblet pie .................. 20 

- hashed meat ..................... 15 

- meat fritters ..................... 18 

- minced meat ..................... 26 

- shepherd's pie ...... . ............ 23 

Concentration of diet .................. 334 

Consumption, diet in .................. 850 

Cooked Meat curry .................. 22 

- fried rissoles ..................... 24 

- gobletpie ........................ 20 

- hashed meat ...... .............. 15 

- meat fritters ..................... 18 

- minced meat ..................... 23 

- shepherd's pie .................... 28 

Cornish pasties. ...................... 71 

Corn-starch cake& Cakes ............. 274 



IXDEX. 



377 



PAGE 

Corn-starch in a cup Puddings 215 

pudding Puddings 217 

Corpulence, diet for reduction ot 341 

Cow-heel jelly Jellies 242 

stewed with onion sauce Jellies. . 243 

Cream of barley Sick-Koom Cookery.. 293 

Creams charlotte russe 253 

strawberry cream 252 

vanilla cream 250 

Croquettes of potato Vegetables 168 

or rissoles of chicken Entrees .... 50 

Crowdie Soups 125 

Cup of arrow-root Sick -Boom Cookery 294 

Curate's pudding Puddings 218 

Curried rabbit Canned Meats 315 

rabbit or veal Entrees 28 

Curry of cold meat 22 

of tripe Tripe 60 

Indian Entrees 28 

Custard pudding Puddings 203 

sauce Souffles 257 

Cutlets, lobster Fish 144 

mutton Entrees 36 

veal Entrees 89 

Diabetes, diet for 851 

Diet for bodily labor 385 

for excessive muscular work .: 837 

for mental work 442 

in bodily training 838-340 

in childhood and youth 382 

in infancy 829 

- in relation to economy 357 

in sickness 846 

of mothers 345 

of old age 346 

Digestibility of food 333 

Dough cake Cakes 275 

Drinks apple-water Sick-Koom Cook- 
ery 297 

barley-water (clear) Sick-Koom 

Cookery 296 

barley- water (thick) Sick-Koom 

Cookery 296 

bran tea Sick-Room Cookery 300 

lemonade -Sick-Room Cookery. . . 298 

rice-water Sick-Room Cookery .. 295 

toast and water Sick-Room Cook- 
ery 298 



PAGE 

Drinks treacle posset Sick-Koom 

Cookery 800 

-white-wine whey Sick-Room 

Cookery 300 

Dripping, clarifying Frying 12 

Dr. Kitchener's broth Soups 124 

Dumplings hard dumplings 232 

Norfolk dumplings 233 

Dutch sauce Sauces. .. .. 182 



Egg sauce Boiled Fowl 101 

sauce Fish 187 

Entrees beef olives 45 

braised fillets of beef 84 

chaudfroid of chicken 88 

croquettes or rissoles of chicken ... 50 

curried rabbit or veal 52 

curry (Indian) 28 

fricassee of chicken 42 

fricassee of cold chicken 44 

haricot mutton 48 

Irish stew 47 

mutton cutlets 86 

quenelles of veal 81 

veal cutlets 89 

Essence of beef Sick-Boora Cookery.. 292 

Fat, clarifying Frying 12 

Fillet of veal, braised Entrees 84 

of sole a la maitre d'hotel Fish. . . 141 

of sole, fried Fish... 142 

Fire, to lay a 2 

Fish baked in vinegar 153 

baked mackerel or herring 151 

baked stufled haddock 152 

boiled 155 

boiled cod 147 

boiled turbot 132 

fillets of sole a la maitre d'hCtel. . . 141 

fish pudding 185 

fried fillets of sole 142 

fried plaice 154 

broiled salmon 149 

lobster cutlets 144 

pudding Fish 135 

sole au gratin 139 

whitebait 188 

Flaky crust (for pies and tarts) Pastry 195 



878 



INDEX. 



PAOB 

Force in foods 361 

Fowl, boiled 99 

for boiling, trussing a 99 

for roasting, trussing a 95 

roasted 95 

Frankland on the comparative value of 

foods 360 

Fricassee of chicken Entrees 42 

of cold chicken Entrees 44 

of mutton Canned Meats 818 

Fried fillets of sole Fish 142 

potato-chips Vegetables 161 

Fruit- tart of short crust Pastry 194 

Frying 12 

Genoese pastry Pastry 188 

German pea soup Soups 129 

pound cake Cakes 2TO 

sauce Puddings 209 

Giblet soup Soups Ill 

Ginger-bread nuts 278 

Goblet pie Cooked Meat 20 

Gout, diet in 848 

Gravel , diet in 849 

Green-sickness, diet for , 347 

Grilled salmon Fish 149 

steak 72 

Gruel Sick-Eoom Cookery 299 

Haddock baked and stuffed Fish 152 

Hard dumplings Dumplings 232 

Haricot beans Vegetables 172 

mutton Entrees 48 

Hash, savory, of canned meat 322 

Hashed meat Cooked Meat 15 

Herring or mackerel, baked Fish 151 

Iceland moss jelly Jellies 241 

Industrial dietaries 367-368 

Invalid pudding Puddings 224 

Irish stew Entrees 47 

stew of canned meat 312 

-stew Stews 57 

. Jam-tart Pastry 185 

Jaundice, diet for 351 

Jellies apple jelly 246 

aspic jelly from calves' feet 237 



FAGB 

Jellies cow-heel jelly 242 

Iceland moss jelly 241 

milk jelly from cow-heel 242 

ox-foot jelly 244 

porter jelly 249 

stewed cow-heel with onion sauce. 242 

stewed ox-foot 244 

wine jelly from calves 1 feet 284 

Lemonade Sick-Eoom Cookery 298 

Lemon pudding Puddings 198 

Liebig's quick beef tea Sick-Eoom 

Cookery 806 

food for infants 829 

Liver and bacon IS 

Lobster cutlets Fish 144 

sauce Fish 138 

Macaroni in milk 176 

with cheese 176 

soup Soups 130 

stewed in stock 177 

Mackerel or herring, baked Fish 151 

Mashed potatoes Vegetables 159 

turnips Vegetables 173 

Mayonnaise Sauces 180 

Meat, canned brown pur6e 811 

canned caramel (brown sugar). . . 312 

canned curried rabbit 315 

canned fricassee of mutton 818 

canned Irish stew 312 

canned mince 324 

canned mulligatawny 309 

canned pie 817 

canned rissoles 820 

canned sausage rolls 313 

canned savory hash 322 

baking 10 

boiling 7 

fritters Cooked Meat 18 

hashed Cooked Meat 15 

minced Cooked Meat 26 

pie Canned Meat 817 

pie, beef-steak 76 

re-cookedcurry 22 

re-cooked fried rissoles 24 

re-cookedgoblet pie 20 

re-cookedhashed meat : 15 

re-cookedmeat fritters 18 



INDEX. 



379 



PAGE 

Meat, re-cookedminced meat 26 

re-cookedshepherd's pie . 23 

roasting 5 

Mental work, diet for 342 

Milk biscuits 282 

composition of 880 

dietetical effects of. 830 

jelly from cow-heel Jellies 242 

rolls 285 

soup Soups 126 

Mince of canned meat 824 

Minced meat Cooked Meat 26 

Mock-turtle Soups 119 

Mothers, diet required by 845 

Mulligatawny, of canned meat 309 

Mutton, boiled, with parsley sauce 

Sick-Eootn Cookery 808 

broth Sick-Koom Cookery. . . 801, 303 

cutlets Entrees 36 

fricassee, of canned meat 818 

- haricot Entrees 48 

Nervous diseases, diet in 851 

New potatoes, boiled Vegetables 158 

Nitrogenous food in muscular exercise. 336 
Norfolk dumplings Dumplings 233 

Oatmeal biscuits 288 

Old age, diet required by 346 

Omelet, savory 263 

souffle 261 

Onion sauce boiled pig's head 81 

Ox-foot jelly Jellies 245 

Oyster sauce Fish 148 

Pancakes Puddings 201 

Pastry beef-steak pie T4 

beef-steak pudding 190 

Cornish pasties 71 

flaky crust for pies and tarts 195 

fruit- tart of short crust 186 

Genoese pastry 188 

patty-cases of puff-paste 185 

pie Canned Meat 317 

pork pie 83 

puff-paste 183 

rissoles of canned meat 320 

rissoles of chicken Entrees ... . 56 



PAGE 

Pastry rough puff-paste, for pies, tarts, 

and tartlets 189 

sausage rolls of canned meat : . 318 

short crust 186 

short crust for apple turnovers and 

dumplings 192 

suet crust , 190 

tartlets of puff-paste 183 

Patty-cases of puff- paste Pastry 185 

Pavy on the nutritive value of foods. ... 364 

Pea soup (German) Soups 129 

soup Soups 128 

Peas Vegetables 171 

Penal diet 365 

Pickle for meat 266 

Pickled cabbage 267 

Pie of canned meat 817 

beef-steak 75 

shepherd's, of cold meat 23 

pork 88 

Pig' s fry poor man's goose 79 

Pig's head, salted and boiled 80 

Piquante, sauce Sauces 181 

Plaice Fish 154 

Plain cake Cakes 271 

Pleasure as an object of dietetics 856 

Plum cake ^Cakes 278 

pudding Puddings 203 

Poor man's goose pig's fry 79 

Pork pie 83 

Porter jelly Jellies 

Potato-chips, fried Vegetables 161 

croquettes Vegetables 168 

fried slices of Vegetables 162 

souffle Souffles 260 

Potatoes, baked Vegetables 160 

boiled Vegetables 157 

mashed Vegetables 158 

new, boiled Vegetables 158 

puree of Soups 114 

saute Vegetables 159 

Pot-au-feu, or soup Soups 121 

Proportion of animal and vegetable food 357 

Puddings Alexandra pudding. 211 

amber pudding 207 

apple charlotte 199 

arrow-root Sick-Room Cookery. . 294 

baked batter and fruit 226 

batter pudding in a cup. 216 



380 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Puddings beef-steak 76 

beef-steakPastry 190 

blanc-mange 213 

boiled batter 214 

bread pudding 216 

brown-bread pudding 209 

cabinet pudding 197 

carrot pudding 210 

cold cabinet pudding 228 

corn-starch pudding 217 

corn-starch pudding in a cup 215 

curate's pudding 218 

custard pudding 203 

fish Fish 135 

invalid pudding 224 

lemon pudding 198 

pancakes 201 

plum pudding 203 

plum puddings 221 

rice pudding 202 

rice pudding (with egg) 217 

semolina pudding 226 

suet pudding 229 

tapioca and apples 223 

treacle pudding 220 

Viennoise or Vennoise pudding.. . 206 

Yorkshire puddings 230 

Puff-paste Pastry 183 

rough, for pies, tarts, and tartlets 

Pastry 189 

Puree, brown Canned Meats 311 

of potatoes Soups 114 

Quantity of food required 362 

Quenelles of veal 31 

Babbit, curried- Canned Meats 315 

curry of Entrees 28 

Rheumatism, diet in 348 

Rice, boiled 174 

boiled Tripe 60 

buns 281 

water Sick-Room Cookery 295 

pudding (with egg) Puddings .... 217 

pudding 202 

Rissoles, fried Cooked Meats 24 

of canned meat 820 

or croquettes of chicken Entr6es. 50 

Roast bullock's heart, stuffed 68 



PAGH 

Roast fowl 55 

Roasting meat 5 

Rock cakes 277 

Rolls of bacon Entrees 41 

Rough puff-paste, for pies, tarts, and 
tartlets Pastry 189 

Salmon, broiled Fish 149 

Sauce, anchovy Fish 144 

bread... . 98 



brown Sauces 179 

custard Souffles 257 

Dutch Sauces 182 

egg Sauces 101 

egg Fish 137 

for boiled fish Fish 156 

lobster Fish 133 

Mayonnaise Sauces 180 

oyster Fish 148 

piquante Sauces 180 

tartare Fish 150 

white Sauces 178 

wine Souflles 257 

wine or brandy Puddings 205 

Sausage rolls 85 

rolls of canned meat 313 

Saute potatoes Vegetables 159 

Savory custard Clear Soup 110 

custard Sick-Room Cookery 306 

hash of canned meat 322 

omelet 263 

Scones 284 

Scurvy, diet in 851 

Seapie 87 

Seed cake^-Cakes 272 

Semolina pudding Puddings 226 

Sheep's head, boiled 88 

head broth 88 

head, browned 91 

Shepherd's pie Cooked Meat 23 

Short bread 285 

Short crust Pastry 186 

crust for apple dumplings and turn- 
oversPastry 192 

Shrewsbury cakes 276 

Sickness, diet required in 846 

Sick-Room Cookery apple-water 297 

arrow-root pudding 249 

barley water (clear) 296 



INDEX. 



381 



PAGE 

6ick-Koom Cookery barley - water 

(thick) 296 

beef tea 804 

boiled mutton with parsley sauce. . 303 

bran tea 800 

chicken panada 291 

cream of barley 298 

cup of arrow-root 294 

gruel 299 

lemonade 298 

Liebig's quick beef tea 806 

mutton broth 801 

rice-water 295 

savory custard 806 

toast and water 298 

treacle posset 300 

white-wine whey 300 

Sole a la maitre d'hotel, fillets of Fish. 141 

an gratin Fish 139 

fried fillets of Fish 142 

8ouffl6, cheese Souffles 258 

omelet 261 

potato Souffl6s 260 

vanilla Souffles 255 

Soups bonne-femme soup 112 

cabbage soup 127 

clear soup 107 

crowdie 125 

Dr. Kitchener's broth 124 

German pea soup 129 

giblet soup 117 

macaroni soup 130 

milk soup. 126 

mock-turtle soup 119 

mulligatawny soup canned or 

Australian meats 309 

pea soup 128 

pot-au-feu 121 

puree of potatoes 114 

spring vegetable soup 115 

tapioca cream Ill 

Spinach Vegetables 169 

Spring vegetable soup Soups 115 

Starvation 854 

Steak, broiled 72 

stewed 92 

Steamed potatoes Vegetables 158 

Stew, Irish, of canned meat 812 

Irish-Entr6es 47 



PAGE 

Stewed beef or ox-cheek with vegeta- 
bles pot-au-feu 121 

cow-heel, with onion sauce Jellies 242 

ox-foot Jellies 244 

steak 92 

Stews a-la-mode beef 54 

Brazilian stew 56 

Irish stew 57 

- stewed brisket of beef (cold) 58 

Stock, brown 104 

made with vegetables 106 

white 106 

Strawberry cream 252 

Suet crust Pastry 190 

pudding Puddings 229 

Sultana cake Cakes... .. 269 



Tapioca and apples Puddings. 228 

cream Soups Ill 

Tartare sauce Fish 150 

Tart filled with jam Pastry 185 

Tartlets of puff-paste Pastry 188 

j Toad-in-the-hole 94 

j Toast and water Sick-Room Cookery. 298 
j Treacle posset Sick-Eoom Cookery. . . 800 

j pudding Puddings 220 

j Tripe a la coutance Tripe 63 

i boiled, with milk and onions 62 

| curried tripe 60 

Trussing a fowl for boiling 99 

a fowl for roasting 95 

Turbot, boiled Fish 132 

Turnips and carrots Vegetables 166 

mashed Vegetables 173 



TJnfermented bread. 



Van Helmont's notions of diet 329 

Vanilla cream Creams 250 

souffle Souffles 255 

Veal, fillet of, braised 66 

curry of Entrees 28 

cutlets Entries 89 

quenelles of Entrees 31 

Vegetable diet, need of 870 

Vegetables baked potatoes 159 

boiled cauliflower 167 

boiled new potatoes 158 



382 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Vegetables boiled potatoes 157 

Brussels sprouts 166 

carrots 174 

carrots and turnips 166 

cauliflower au gratin 168 

fried potato-chips 161 

fried slices of potato 161 

haricot beans 162 

mashed potatoes 169 

mashed turnips 173 

peas 171 

potato croquettes 168 

saut6 potatoes 169 

spinach 169 

steamed potatoes 168 

stock .. 106 



Viennoise orVennoise pudding Pud- 
dings 206 

Weak digestion, diet for 849 

Weaning in relation to diet 831 

Whitebait Fish 138 

White sauce Sauces 178 

stock 105 

wine whey Sick-Koom Cookery.. 800 

Wine for children 335 

jelly from calves' feet Jellies 284 

or brandy sauce Puddings 205 

sauce Souffles . . 257 



Yorkshire pudding Puddings. 
Yorkshire tea cakes. . . 



THE END. 



LESSONS IN COOKERY: 



Hand-book of the National Training-School for Cookery, South 
Kensington, London. To which is added the Principles of 
Diet in Health and Disease, by Thomas K, Chambers, M. D. 
Edited by Eliza A. Youmans. In one vol., 12mo, 382 pages 
bound in cloth. Price, $1.50. 



THIS is an important work for such American housekeepers as are interested 
in the principles of good cookery ; but it differs so much from ordinary cook- 
books that, to prevent misunderstanding, it is needful to call attention to its 
special features. Emanating from a school, and that school a_ working kitchen, 
the manual is beyond comparison the most thoroughly practical cook-book for 
general use that has ever been made. 

The novelty and merit of the work are in the method by which it secures 
successful practice. Its lessons, the plainest, easiest, and fullest, anywhere to be 
found, have grown out of a long and painstaking experience in finding out the 
best plan of teaching beginners and ignorant persons how to cook well. They 
were perfected through the stupidities, blunders, mistakes, questionings, and 
difficulties, of hundreds of pupils, of all ages, grades, and capacities, under the 
careful direction of intelligent, practical teachers. 

A cook-book's highest test is, Does it actually teach the art of cookery, or will 
it make good practical cooks ? Thus judged, this volume is without a rival. It 
is not a mere compilation, nor the work of any one person. The managers of 
the training-school found that there was no cook-book suitable for their pur- 
poses, and that they must make one. The proof of its success is that, by follow- 
ing its simple directions, many hundred women have become qualified to fill 
responsible situations as cooks, or to instruct their daughters or servants in 
cookery, or to go out and establish other cooking-schools themselves. 

Ordinary cook-books boast of the rarity, novelty, or great extent, of their re- 
ceipts. The "Lessons in Cookery" makes no claim of this kind. Those who 
look in it for the last touches in oysters, terrapin, cake, or ice-cream, will be 
disappointed. There are thousands of English receipts that will not be found in 
it, and, of course, it does not treat of the dishes that are special to this country. 
The receipts of the work are lessons in practice, and these occupy so much space 
that a great multitude could not be furnished. 

The volume, however, covers sufficient ground for a liberal and varied diet. 
It contains upward of 200 lessons in the preparation of a wide ran<re of dishes- 
soups, fish, meats, poultry, game, vegetables, entrees, souffles, puddings, jellies, 
creams, rolls, biscuit, bread, and a variety of suitable dishes for the sick. The 
wants of well-to-do families as well as those of more moderate means are thus 
amply provided for. 

The chief advantage of the book consists in its efficient method of improving 
the quality of common cookery. In this respect it is strong where other books 
are defective. It will be useful in cooking-schools, cooking-classes, and cock- 
ing-clubs ; but it will be still more useful in private kitchens. Many American 
women know how to cook well, but they are not so successful in teaching what 
they know to others. By the aid of these simple le?sons they may turn their 
kitchens into little domestic cooking-schools, and thus elevate an important 
branch of household economy, now too much neglected. 



D. APPLETON & CO., 549 & 551 BROADWAY, NEW Yont 



D. APPLETON & Co.'s RECENT PUBLICATIONS. 



ALL AROUND THE HOUSE ; or, How to make Homes Happy. 

By Mrs. HENRY WARD BEECHER, author of ''Motherly Talks," etc. 1 vol., 

12mo. Cloth. Price, $1,50. 

This volume, as its title implies, consists of papers upon topics concerning 
the ordering and well-being of the household. It contains, in addition to a large 
number of receipts for cooking, and rules for marketing, numerous hints lor the 
management of servants, directions as to furnishing, repairing, cleansing, etc., 
and information on all the innumerable things on which housekeepers need in- 
formati9n, while, in addition to its usefulness as a guide to practical knowledge, 
it is eminently interesting and suggestive to every one concerned in the welfare 
and happiness of home. 

II. 

ENGLISH LITERATURE, from 596 to 1832. By T. ARNOLD. 
Reprinted from the "Encyclopaedia Britannica." Forming No. 20 of Apple- 
tons 1 " New Handy- Volume Series." Paper cover, price, 25 cents. 

in. 

THE GREAT GERMAN COMPOSERS. Comprising Bio- 
icaland Anecdotical Sketches of Bach, Handel, Gluck, Haydn, Mozart, 
_ aethoven, Schubert, Schumann, Franz, Chopin, Weber, Mendelssohn, and 
Wagner. Forming No. 16 of Appletons' "New Handy-Volume Series." 
Price, 30 cents. 

rv. 

IN PARADISE. From the German of PAUL HEYSE. Forming No. 

14 of Appletons' " Collection of Foreign Authors." In two volumes. Price, 

in paper cover, 60 cents per vol. ; in cloth, $1.00 per vol. 
" ' IN PARADISE ' is a book which from the freshness of its theme, the great va- 
riety and individuality of its characters, the strength of its plot, and its happy 
execution, will command unusual admiration." THE INDEPENDENT. 

V. 

REMORSE. A Novel. From the French of TH. BENTZON. Forming 
No. 13 of Appletons' " Collection of Foreign Authors." 16mo. Paper, 50 
cents ; cloth, 75 cents. 
" Remorse," which appeared recently in the JRevue des Deux Mondes, is a 

novel of great power. The author, who writes under the name of "Th. Bent- 

zon," is Madame Blanc, "a woman," eays a writer in LippincotCs Magazine, 

"ol great intelligence and the highest character." 

VI. 

JEAN TETEROL'S IDEA. A Novel. From the French of 
VICTOR CHERBULIEZ, author of " Samuel Brohl and Company," "Meta Hol- 
denis," etc., etc. 16mo, 320 pages. Paper cover, 60 cents ; cloth, $1.00. 
u The raciest and most entertaining Paris novel of the season." 
"Jean Teterol's Idea" forms No. 14 of Appletons' "Collection of Foreign 
Authors." 



For sale by all booksellers. Any volume mailed, post-paid, to any address in 
the United States, on receipt of price. 



D. APPLETON & CO., PUBLISHERS, 549 & 551 Broadway, New York. 



WORKS ON COOKERY 



AND 



HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. 



HaskeWs Housekeeper's Encyclopedia; 

Or, Useful Information in Cooking and Housekeeping. 1 vol., 
email 8vo. Cloth, $1.75. 

n. 
Blot's (P.) Hand-book of Practical Cookery, 

For Ladies and Professional Cooks. Containing the Whole Science 
and Art of preparing Human Food. By PIERRE BLOT, Professor 
of Gastronomy and Founder of the New York Cooking Academy. 
1 vol., 12mo. Cloth, $1.75. 

in. 

Beetorfs (Isabella) Every -day Cookery and Housekeeping Book; 
Comprising Instructions for Mistress and Servants, and a Collec- 
tion of over 1,500 Practical Receipts, with 104 Colored Plates, 
showing the Proper Mode of sending Dishes to Table, and numer- 
ous additional Illustrations. 1 vol., 12mo. Half roan, $1.50. 

IV. 

Beetorfs (Isabella) Book of Household Management. 

Being a History of the Origin, Properties, and Uses, of All Things 
connected with Home Life and Comfort. Also, Sanitary, Medical, 
and Legal Memoranda. 12mo. 1,140 pages, with Colored Illus- 
trations. 1 vol., 12mo. $3.00. 

v. 
Eassie's (W.) Healthy Houses. 

A Hand-book to the History, Defects, and Remedies of Drainage, 
Ventilation, Warming, and Kindred Subjects. With Estimates 
for the Best Systems in Use, and upward of 300 Illustrations. By 
WILLIAM EASSIE, C. E., F. L. S., F. G. S., etc., etc., late Assistant 
Engineer to Renkioi Hospital during the Crimean War. 1 vol., 
12mo. Cloth, $1.00. 

VI. 

Scott's (Frank J.) Suburban Home Grounds, 

And the Best Modes of laying out, planting, and keeping Deco- 
rated Grounds. Illustrated by upward of 200 Plates and Engrav- 
ings of Plans for Residences and their Grounds, of Trees and 
Shrubs and Garden Embellishments. With Descriptions of the 
Beautiful and Hardy Trees and Shrubs grown in the United States. 
1 vol., large 8vo. Cloth, extra, $8.00. 

D. APPLETON & CO., 549 & 551 Broadway, New York. 



"WE CANNOT TOO HIGHLY COMMEND THIS LATEST SCHEME FOB PRESENTING 
GOOD LITEBATUKE IN COMELY AND CONVENIENT SHAPE, AT EXTBEMELY LOW 

PBICES." New York Evening Post. 



APPLETONS' 

NEW HANDY-VOLUME SERIES. 

Brilliant Novelettes; Romance, Adventure, Travel, Humor; 
Historic, Literary, and Society Monographs. 

I. 

JET : Her Face or her Fortune ? By Mrs. ANNIE EDWARDES, author of 
"Archie Lovell," "Ought we to visit Her ? " etc. 30 cents. 

"'Jet' is a thoroughly pood book. It is pure in purpose, fresh and attractive in 
style, and fully justifies all the ' great expectations ' based upon the reputation Mrs. 
Edwardes has gained for herself." Boston Post. 

n. 

A STRUGGLE. By BARNET PHILLIPS. 25 cents. 

"A charming novelette of the Franco-German War, told in a pleasant and interest- 
ing manner that absorbs the mind until the story is finished." Philadelphia Times. 

ni. 

MISERICORDIA. By ETHEL LYNN LINTON. 20 cents. 

"We are not sure that we like anything by Mrs. Linton better than this." New 
York Evening Post. 

rv. 

GORDON BALDWIN, and THE PHILOSOPHER'S PENDULUM. By 
RUDOLPH LINDAU. 25 cents. 

"Both tales are full of dramatic interest, and both are told with admirable skill." 
New York Evening Post. 

" We recommend to readers of fiction these two remarkable stories." New York 
Time*. 



AppletonJ New Handy -Volume Series. 



V. 

THE FISHERMAN OF AUGE. By KATHARINE S. MACQUOID. 20 
cents. 

"A particularly good bit of work by Katharine S. Macqnoid. The story has a 
strong plot, and some of its scenes are fine bits of dramatic writing; 1 New York 
Evening Post. 

VI. 
ESSAYS OF ELIA. First Series. By CHARLES LAMB. 30 cents. 

"The quaintness of thought and expression, the originality and humor and exqui- 
site elaboration of the papers, have made them as much a standard as any of the 
writings of Addison and Steele, and far more agreeable." Philadelphia North 
American. 

VII. 

THE BIRD OF PASSAGE. By J. SHERIDAN LE FANU, author of 
"Uncle Silas," etc. 25 cents. 

"The heroine is a pleasant relief from the crowd of conventional beauties that one 
knows by heart. The scenes of the book are as odd as the characters." Boston 
Courier. 

vm. 

THE HOUSE OF THE TWO BARBELS. By ANDRE THEURIET, au- 
thor of "Gerard's Marriage," "The Godson of a Marquis," etc. 

20 cents. 

"The tale is pretty, and so naively and charmingly told, with such delicate yet 
artistic characterization, that it leaves a most delightful impression on the reader's 
mind." New York Express. 

" A delightful little romance, exquisite in its conception and perfect in its style." 
Philadelphia Record. 

"The character of Germain Lafrogne is one of the best in modern fiction." 
Baltimore, Sun. 

IX. 

LIGHTS OF THE OLD ENGLISH STAGE. Biographical and Anec- 
dotical Sketches of Famous Actors of the Old English Stage. Re- 
printed from Temple Bar. 30 cents. 

"The book treats of Richard Burbage and other 'originals' of Shakespeare's 
characters, the Cibbers, Garrick, Charles Macklin, 'Peg' Woffington and George Anne 
Bellamy, John Kemble and Mrs. Siddons, Cooke, Edmund Kean, Charles YoungfDora 
Jordan, and Mrs. Eobinson. A more interesting group of persons it would be hard to 
find. 11 2V0 York World. 



Appletons' New Handy -Volume Series. 



IMPRESSIONS OF AMERICA. From the Nineteenth Century. By R. 
W. DALE. I. Society. II. Politics. III. and IV. Popular Educa- 
tion. 30 cents. 

"Mr. Dale's chapter upon American politics shows a greater degree of fairness an& 
a better understanding of the spirit of our institutions than are exhibited by most 
English writers. In speaking of our social characteristics, he says that during the 
whole of his stay, and in all parts of the country, East and West, he was struck ' with 
the extreme gentleness of American manners, 1 and gives several instances which came 
under his observation." Boston ^Evening Transcript. 

" The book shows how our society, politics, and systems of popular education, strike 
an intelligent, observing, fair-minded foreigner. The style of the book is pleasant, and 
the writer notices our republican ways with a mingling of surprise, admiration, and 
amusement, that is refreshing to read about." Louisville Courier-Journal. 

XL 

THE GOLDSMITH'S WIFE. By Madame CHARLES REYBAUD. 25 cents. 

"No one but a woman could have sounded the depths of the nature of this gold- 
smith's wife, and portrayed so clearly her exquisite purity and the hard struggles she 
underwent." New York Mail. 

"The simplicity and delicacy of this little story render it as unique as it is ex- 
quisite." Albany Argus. 

XII. 

A SUMMER IDYL. By CHRISTIAN REID, author of "Bonny Kate," 
" Yalerie Aylmer," etc. 30 cents. 

" A Summer Idyl " is a charming summer sketch, the scene of which is on the 
French Broad, in North Carolina. It is eminently entertaining as a story, as well as a 
delightful idyllic rural picture. 

" We consider it one of Christian Keid's best efforts. It is full of spirit and ad- 
venture, relieved by an exquisite love-episode." Philadelphia Item. 

XIII. 
THE ARAB WIFE. A Romance of the Polynesian Seas. 25 cents. 

" The Arab Wife " is a picturesque and romantic story, of a kind to recall to many 
readers those brilliant books of thirty years ago Melville's " Typee " and " Oinoo." 

XIV. 

MRS. GAINSBOROUGH'S DIAMONDS. By JULIAN HAWTHORNE, au- 
thor of " Bressant," " Garth," etc. 20 cents. 

"This interesting little story fully sustains the reputation of Juh'an Hawthorn*. 
In Mm, at least, we have one more proof of the ' heredity of genius.' " 



Appletom* New Handy -Volume Series. 



XV. 

LIQUIDATED, and THE SEER. By RUDOLPH LINDAU, author of " Gor- 
don Baldwin " and " The Philosopher's Pendulum." 25 cents. 
"Kudolph Lindau is a young German author, rising rapidly to fame, whose stories 
have principally Americans and Englishmen lor their dramatis personce, and are 
remarkable for dramatic directness and force, insight into character, and freshness of 
motive and incident." 

XVI. 

THE GREAT GERMAN COMPOSERS. Comprising Biographical and 
Anecdotical Sketches of Bach, Handel, Gluck, Haydn, Mozart, Beet- 
hoven, Schubert, Schumann, Franz, Chopin, Weber, Mendelssohn, 
and Wagner. 30 cents. 

XVII. 
ANTOINETTE. A Story. By ANDRE THEURIET. 20 cents. 

" Theuriet is the envied author of several graceful novelettes, artistic and charming, 
of which l Antoinette ' is not the least delightful. 11 Boston Post. 

XVIII. 
JOHN-A-DREAMS. A Tale. 30 cents. 

" A capital little story ; spirited in the telling, bright in style, and clever in con- 
struction." Boston Gazette. 

XIX. 
MRS. JACK. A Story. By FRANCES ELEANOR TROLLOPE. 20 cents. 

" It is a well-written story, and will generally be voted too short. The characters 
are vividly imagined and clearly realized, while the author has a sense of humor which 
lightens the work." Philadelphia Inquirer. 

XX. 
ENGLISH LITERATURE, from 596 to 1832. By T. ARNOLD. Reprinted 

from the " Encyclopaedia Britannica." 25 cents. 

" Emphatically a history of intellectual ideas rather than a tedious catalogue of hooka 
and authors. Scarcely any notable book or author is omitted."^. Y.Everig Express. 

XXI. 

RAYMONDE. A Tale. By ANDRE THEURIET, author of " Gerard's Mar- 
riage," etc. 30 cents. 

" A story well planned, well written, and not long. It is bright, readable, and un- 
exceptionable in its tone and inculcations." Worcester Spy. 

XXII. 

BEACONSFIELD. A Sketch of the Literary and Political Career of 
Benjamin Disraeli, now Earl of Beaconsfield. With Two Portraits. 
By GEORGE M. TOWLE. 25 cents. 



*** Any volume mailed, post-paid, to any address within the United States, on 
receipt of the price. 

D. APPLETON & CO., PUBLISHERS, 549 & 551 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 



WORKS 

OF 

WILLIAM CULLEN BRYANT, 



Illustrated 8vo Edition of Bryant's Poetical Works. 100 

Engravings by Birket Foster, Harry Fenn, Alfred Fredericks, and 
other Artists. 1 vol., 8vo. Cloth, gilt side and edge, $4.00 ; half 
calf, marble edge, $6.00 ; full morocco, antique, $8.00 ; tree calf, 
$10.00. 

Household Edition. 1 vol., 12mo. Cloth, $2.00; half calf, $4.00; 
morocco, $5.00 ; tree calf, $5.00. 

Red Line Edition. With 24 Illustrations, and Portrait of Bryant, 
on Steel. Printed on tinted paper, with red line. Square 12mo. 
Cloth, extra, $3.00; half calf, $5.00; morocco, $7.00; tree calf, 
$8.00. 

Blue and Gold Edition. 18mo. Cloth, gilt edge, $1.50; tree 
calf, marble edge, $3.00 ; morocco, gilt edge, $4.00. 



Letters from Spain and other Countries. 1 vol., 12mo. Price, 

$1.25. 

The Song of the Sower. Illustrated with 42 Engravings on Wood, 
from Original Designs by Hennessy, Fenn, Wiuslow Homer, Hows, 
Griswold, Nehlig, and Perkins ; engraved in the most perfect manner 
by our best Artists. Eleg'antly printed and bound. Cloth, extra 
gilt, $5.00 ; morocco, antique, $9.00. 

The Story of the Fountain. With 42 Illustrations by Harry Fenn, 
Alfred Fredericks, John A. Hows, Winslow Homer, and others. In 
one handsome quarto volume. Printed in the most perfect manner, 
on heavy calendered paper. Uniform with " The Song of the Sower." 
8vo. Square cloth, extra gilt, $5.00 ; morocco, antique, $9.00. 

The Little People of the Snow. Illustrated with exquisite En- 
gravings, printed in Tints, from Designs by Alfred Fredericks. Cloth, 
$5.00 ; morocco, $9.00. 



D. APPLETON & CO., 549 & 551 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 







^uc< 



THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE 
STAMPED BELOW 



AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS 

WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN 
THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY 
WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH 
DAY AND TO $1.OO ON THE SEVENTH DAY 
OVERDUE. 



418541 



UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY