Letters from Portugal, Spain, Italy and Germany, in the years 1759, 1760, and 1761

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PRESENTED TO THE LIBRARY

OF

PRINCETON THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY

BY

JVIps. Alexander Proudfit.

SC

LETTERS

fe Y

C. H E R V E Y, Eso,

LETTERS

FROM

PORTUGAL, SPAIN,
ITALY and GERMANY,

IN THE YEARS I75Q, 1760, AND I761.

By CHRISTOPHER HERVEY, Esq..

VOLUME THE THIRD,

LONDON!

fSINTED BY J. DAVIS, C H A N C E R Y - L A N E J FOX
X, FAULDER, NEW-BOND-STREET.

M.DCC.LXXXV.

LETTERS

FROM

ITALY, &c,

L E T T E R I.

Veletri, ioth February, 1761^
Tuefday, 8 o'clock at night.

I SET out for this place about 12 o'clock
this morning, after a good dinner, or rather
a good breakfaft, before my departure. Tho'
I came poft, and it is only two and twenty
miles, it was after fun-let before I arrived
hither. I brought a letter for a gentleman
Vol. III. A qf

2 LETTERS FR.OM

of this place, but it fcems he is gone out of
town, however they expect his return to-
morrow morning. My inn I think is as
bad as can poffibly be. Indeed to the iouth-
ward of Rome, things begin to have the
air of Spain. There is fome reafon why ac-
commodations mould be worfe in hot coun-
tries than in colder climates. The mildnefs
of the air renders them lefs necefTary. At
this time of the year, people would be
flarved in England in the room I am at pre-
fent fetting. No glafs to the windows, tho'
that indeed is at prefent remedied by the
wooden ihutters being clofed, but then there
are proper interftices to let the wind pafs.
My chimney likewife fmokes. Part of my
fupper is juft tumbled down, or rather up
flairs, and I am going to eat the reil.

Veletri,

ITALY, GERMANY, &fc. 3

Veletri, nth February, i/6r, one o'clock
in the afternoon, Wednefday.

The gentleman I was recommended to has
been with me this morning, and we tookawalk
out together about the town, and have been
fcrutinizing, upon the lpot, into the hiftory
of the furprize of Veletri by the Germans. It
happened in the year 1 744. You know the
queen of Hungary fent troops under prince
Lobkowitz, to invade Naples, which met
the Spanifh and Neapolitan forces at Veletri.
The Spaniards were quartered in the town,
and the Germans in a wood upon a hill near
it. The Spaniards were fent into Italy by
Philip the Fifth, to aflSft his fon Don Carlos,
who is now king of Spain, and whom he
had placed upon the throne of the Two
Sicilies, after he had conquered thole domi-
nions from the honfe of Auflria. The
queen indeed had ceded them, but upon
war's breaking; out an'ain, me renewed her
former claims. Juft the fame as fhe has been
A 2 doing

4 LETTERS FROM

doing with regard to Sileiia this war. She fent
twenty thoufand men to the attempt. It was
thefe who were quartered upon the mount
Artemifius near Veletri. The king of Naples
was quartered and lodged in the only hand-
fome palace here, belonging to the family of
Ginetti. Lobkowitz and his generals re-
folved to attempt a furprize of the place by
night. General Brown, an Irimman, was to
command the attack. The Britifh fleet
.under Admiral Mathews was then cmifing
off the coaft, which is not above four or five
miles from Veletri, to aflift the Germans.
A day or two before the furprize, Lobko-
witz marched fome of his troops down rather
more to the fhore, than his camp, and a
report was fpread, purpofely I fuppofe, that
he was going to imbark his troops on board
the Engliih fleet, in order to go^ftreight to
Naples. However, if any perfon fuffered
themfelves to be deceived by fuch a report,
they were not much ikilled in lea-affairs, for
it mil ft have been a pretty large fleet to have

received

ITALY, GERiMANY, &c. 5

received tvventy-thoufand men. The night
fettled for the attempt at laft came. Some
regiments of German troops were marched
round to attack Veletri on the contrary fide
to where they were encamped. There was
another, likewife, ordered to go and fpread
an alarm towards the eaft, but they loft
their way in the night, and never appeared
during the attack.

The Neapolitan gate, which was on the
oppofite fide to where the Germans were
encamped, was the place intended to be
forced. Without it the Irifh regiments in
the fervice of Spain were quartered. General
Brown cut the greateft part of his country-
men to pieces. During this alarm the king
put on his cloaths, and girting on his fword
as quick as poflible, ran out of the back
door of his houfe, attended by fome of his
nobility and life-guards, who were upon
duty near him. He went through the gar-
den belonging to the palace of the Ginettt
A 3 family,

6 LETTERS FROM

family, and took the road towards Valmon-
tonio. There were fome of his cavalry
here, from whom he got a horfe, and went
on, after encouraging them to defend his
perfon. He got to a capuchin convent not
far from Veletri, where he met the duke of
Modena, and the French ambaflador, two
perfons for whofe fafety he had been very
anxious. He then marched to the right
wing of his troops, who were encamped
on that fide of Veletri, where he omitted
nothing a general could do to animate and
arrange his men. It was now day-light,
for Brown had been fo delayed, that it was
near dawn before his attack began. He had
almoft. deftroyed all his countrymen who
defended the Neapolitan gate. The few
that remained he had taken priibners.
He had broken too fome Spanim horfe that
oppofed him. He killed many of them, and
took more.

He

Italy, Germany, &c. 7

He then feized the tents, and every thing
elfe that belonged to the left wing of the
Spanifli army. He fet the whole on fire.
The town gate was now opened by force.
The Spanifli guards in vain attempted to
hinder the entrance of the enemy. Sanfe-
verino, brother to the prince of Bifiniano,
endeavoured to rally them. Some he re-
proached, fome he ftopt by force, till his
great number of wounds rendered him fo
faint, that he fell, and was left for dead.
In the mean time the Germans entered, and
feized upon nine pair of colours found alto^
gether jufl at the gate. They now feparated
their troops into three divifions. One went
to the palace where the king lodged ; the
fecond towards the court of juftice, a large
building on the left hand as they entered ;
and the third up the ftreet that leads
through the middle of the town. They
killed a great many people, and attempted
to fet fire to the houfes in many places.
The inhabitants, unufed to war, hid them-
A 4 felves

i LETTERS FROM

felves in their cellars, and expected to fee
their habitations entirely deftroyed. The
Germans continued killing almoft every
perfon they met, whether armed or not.
They plundered every thing they could get^
making very little difference between what
belonged to the towns-people or their ene-
mies. Almoft. all the Spaniards that re-
mained in the town upon the entry of the
Germans were either taken or killed. Count
Mariano, tho' very ill of the gout, was
obliged get away as quick as he could on
horfeback. The duke of Atrifeo, after the
houfe he was in was half pulled down and
burnt, got off likewife, and mounting a
horfe, rode to the king's guards, of which
he was commander. In fhort, fire, confufion
and the enemy occupied every place ; and a
report was current, (a thing common enough
upon all thefe occaiions,) that the Spanifh
army was totally deflroyed. What ruined
the Germans was, that, inftead of following
their victory, as foon as they were matters

of

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 9

of the town they thought of nothing but
plundering it- However, the Spaniards,
who had recovered themfelves a little on the
outfide of the walls, re-attacked the Ger-
mans. The engagement then became very
bloody on both fides.

General Gage was the principal comman-
der of the Spaniards under the king of Na-
ples. He was a Fleming, and had been one
of the Spaniih Walloon guards. He directed
the recovery of the town with all the art
and vigor of an experienced officer. An-
dreafy, a general of the Germans, "was
wounded. Many prifoners wrere taken on
both fides. The event was certainly of very
great confequence, for if the Spaniards had
been conquered, and their ammunition and
magazines taken, it might have gone hard
with the kingdom of Naples. In the mean
time the king, who was never far from Ve-
letri, fent twTo companies of the queen's
regiment, which he had along with him, to

affift

io LETTERS FROM

aflift his army. Gage, likewife, brought the
Macedonian regiment, and that of Caftille
to the attack. The appearance of them call:
a panic into the enemy, who were afraid
of being fur rounded, fo that the Ger-
mans immediately began to run away as
fa ft as they could. Some were killed in
jumping down the fteep precipices which
furround the town. What increafed the
hurry of their flight was, their not receiving
any afiiftance from their general Lobkowitz,
who, I do not know for what reafon, did
not chufe to fend them a reinforcement.
The Spaniards purfued the flying enemy to
fo good effect, that they ftrewed the road
quite up to the German camp with carcafes.
There were, flill, however, fome remaining
in Veletri, who had got into the houfes, and
from thence infefted the Spanifh troops.
As they were covered by the walls from the
mufquetry, they killed a great number, without
being annoyable themfelves from the enemy.
The Spaniards could not bring their cannon

eafiiy

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. n

eafily to play upon them within the ftreets
of the town, indeed I believe they had little
or no artillery in it. However the Walloon
guards at lad: broke into the houfes, and,
with fome lofs, killed or took them all pri-
foners. The count of Beaufort, one of the
Walloon officers, was killed by the enemies
bayonets. He did not fall upon the fpot,
but continued righting, till at laft they car-
ried him away by force. His countrymen,
the Walloons, feeing what had happened,
redoubled their fury. They cut down the
doors with hatchets, and as I have already
laid, all the Germans remaining within the
houfes were either killed or taken prifoners.
In the mean time the purfuit of thofe who
were retreating to their camp was conti-
nued. Count Novati was taken by the
Spaniards in the duke of Modena's quar-
ters, before he knew even that his own
party was fled. The duke of Modena,
you know, was then with the Spaniards.
There was a confutation held by the king,

with

iz LET TERS FROM

with him and other officers, about purfu-
ing the Germans with all their forces, into
their very camp. But fome difputes arofe
about the way they were to march, which
gave the enemy time to compleat their re-
treat;

Seven o clock at night.

W E have been walking out a fecond
time, and looking about Veletri. The
houfes are marked with mufquet mot,
the remains of the German attack. We
faw where the then king of Naples faved
himfelf, when he ran half naked into the
garden and efcaped. The fituation of Vele-
tri is really very pretty. It is placed upon
a middling hill. The valleys about it are
very romantic, and the fides of them cloath-
ed with vineyards and olive trees. I faw
nothing extraordinary in the town but its
dirtinefs, as being furrounded with decli-
vities I mould think the water muft run

off.

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 13

off. Indeed they have nothing to fhew but
a pope's ftatue, and the art of making bran-
dy, which they fay is done cheaper here
than at Rome. A cofFee-houfe exhibited to
me fome curious figures, and you know
what country gentlemen are out of Eng-
land. I fet out for Capua to-morrow, where
I mail flay a day or two, before I go on for
Naples.

LET-

14 LETTERSFROM

LETTER II.

Capua, 8 o'clock morning,
Monday, Feb. 16, 1761.

JL H I S is the fifth day I have been at
Capua, detained by fome friends, but as
their company will not be fo agreeable to
you as to me, I will give you the confe-
quences of the German repulfe at Veletri,
I take great part of what I write from an
elegant L,atin hiftory, of the late war in
Italy, compofed by Buonarnici, who ferv-r
ed under the king of Naples, which makes
him indeed rather incline, to the party
under whole banners he fought.

The Spaniards continued defirous of re-
venging, by an immediate attack upon their
camp, the daring enterprize of the Ger-
mans. The count of Valhermofo offered

to

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. is

to follow them, if the king would but give
him leave. He faid he would go by a bridge
called Mela, near the town of Lanuvio,
where the Jiorfe could alfo come, and by fe-
eluding the enemy from Cintiano, exact im-
mediate punimment for their hardinefs. The
count of Valhermofo's opinion prevailed. But
the misfortune was, that while thefe things
were difputing, and the troops were getting
ready, the Germans returned in peace to their
camp. The Spaniards did indeed begin to
march under the command of the count.
But as foon as the king knew that the
enemy was entirely retired, fo that it was
impofiible to harrafs them any further in
their retreat, and as he had a mind to give
his troops a little reft after the great fa-
tigue of the paffed night, or rather morning,
conlidering all theie things, he ordered
them to return to their quarters. The
affair began at dawn of day, and lafted till
nine o'clock.

The

i6 LETTERS FROM

The day following the king gave public
thanks to all his army, and in particular to
count Gage, and the duke of Cafrropig-
nano. He praifed his Spanifh troops in not
letting their courage flag under difficulties,
and his Neapolitans for equalling their an-
ceftors in their fidelity and love to their
fovereign. He difpenfed rewards to differ-
ent perfons. He promoted prince Sanfe-
verino, the prince of Bifiniano's brother,
and made the prince della Riccia knight of
the order of St. Januarius. They were both v
wounded. He then harangued his army,
and exhorted them to have courage, nor
he difappoiiited at difficulties. He told them
that they ought rather to rejoice in
having repelled an almofr. victorious enemy
from their camp, than be forry for their
having been attacked, and receiving fome
lofs. One man was hung up belonging
to the town, as the Spaniards, tho1 from
reports perhaps more than proof, imagined
fome of the inhabitants had played ra-
i ther

Italy, Germany, &c. 17

ther foul towards them. In fact, the fub-
jecls. of the pope were badly off to have
two great armies cutting and burning their
houfes about their ears, without being able
to fay, no, to either of them. The king
then took care to have his camp better
ftrengthened and guarded. The foldiers that
had loft their arms, horfes, and cloaths,
•were refurnifhed with all of them. Every
province of the Neapolitan ftate was order-
ed to fend a certain number of recruits,
and every prince a horfe. The princes and
people did at laft tranfmit what was requir-
ed, but after fome time. Naples made a
free prefent of money to the king. Some
auxiliary troops from Spain had the good
luck to get to Gaeta and Naples, through
the Britifli fleet, which was then very
powerful. JLobkowitz in the mean time,
tho' he fpread about every where that he
had gained a victory, thought of making
his retreat. As he had loft a great many of
his men, and found the Spanifh camp was
Vol. III. B now

i* LETTERS FROM

now fbongly fortified, he gave up all hopes
of any opportunity offering in his favor.
A great many of his foldiers too were woun-
ded, which added to the month of Auguft*
caufe of unwholefome heats they were not
accuitomed to bear, rendered them unfit to
do their duty. His principal officers began
likewife to quarrel, which generally happens
when affairs go bad. Malicious fayings flew
about, that Lobkowitz was not capable of
commanding an army. The horfes were
entirely emaciated. The country all round
was confumed, by the long flay of the
troops. The autumn too was coming on,
a bad time for him to trufr. for provifions by
lea. Tho' Lobkowitz wanted affiftance him-
felf, the king of Sardinia was intreating him
to come and ftrengthen his party, and the
general was obliged, by the queen's orders, to
fend him fome forces. This commander was
reduced, therefore, to the greateft dilemma,
and his determination was, that it was necef-
iary to march. He flayed, notwithstanding,

two

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 19

two months longer in fight of the Spanim
army, whether it was that the Auftrians
were afhamed to abandon what had once
been undertaken, or, that flill fome beams
of hope were kept alive in their bofoms.
During this interval, about a hundred Hun-
garian horfe fell upon the town of Val-
montonio by furprize, and killed all the
few Spanim troops in it, with Portocarrero
who commanded them. They plundered
the town. In all the flay of the armies
at Veletri, nothing more happened of any
moment; Lobkowitz, who flill continued
in his intention of decamping, fent away
before him the fick and wounded, and
all other impediments, in order that no-
thing might retard his march, He order-
ed about a hundred men likwife, to make
a bridge of boats over the Tyber, pretty
near the bridge called Ponte Molle, in order
that he might pafs his troops the quicker
over that river. After thefe difpofitions
Lobkowitz marched away in the night
B 2 time,

2b LETTERS FROM

time, m a great hurry. As foon as the"
king of Naples perceived their retreat, a
Hep he had imagined the Germans would
be obliged to take fooner or later, he order-
ed his army to follow, and his cavalry to
harrafs their rear. The firft night of their
march, the Germans ftopt at the Torre di
mezza via, and the Spaniards in the valley
of Albano. In palling the Tyber the Germans
were overtaken, and a little fkirmiih happened
before they could entirely get over their
troops. When the Auftrian army pafled
under the walls of Rome, the citizens looked
Upon them with a different eye from what
they had done fome months before, while
going, as they faid, to the conqueft of Naples.
Lobkowitz then had entered that city, with
fome of his generals, to pay his refpects to
the Pope. All the inhabitants crouded to
fee him. Buoilamici fays, that the day of
his entering Rome, the people mewed him
fo much honor, and crouded fo much about
the tops of^their houfes to behold him, and

received

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. it

received him with fuch acclamations, that
nothing feemed wanting to compleat his
triumph but a victory (ut nihil ei ad tnum-
pham prater victoriam deeflet.) The Ro-
mans ufed to go out to the army, which was
encamped but a little way from the town,
and (tare at and admire every thing. Buon*
amici imagines that they judged of the
ftrength and force of the foldicrs from their
barbarous cloathing, and their harm founding
language. The Romans faid, that no nation,
much lefs the Neapolitan, could withftand
the look of fuch troops. But they were now
returning in a quite different plight, and with
quite different ideas from what they enter-
tained before. Inftead of invading, they were
purfued, and inftead of conquering, were en-
endeavouring to preferve the troops thev
already had ; in fliort, inftead of acting upon
the offenfive, were become mere defenders.

B 3 8 o'clock,

22 LETTERS FROM

8 o'clock at night.

I dined to day with the governor of this
place, who is an Iriihman, or at leaft of Irifh
extraction. At his table were the officers of
an Irifh regiment quartered here, with one
Frenchman, who, tho' born at Aix, is yet
enrolled among them. Upon my word the
number of Britifli fubje&s, and particularly
Irilh, ferving in foreign countries, is a great
detriment to the nation. There are three
IrihS regiments in Spain, feven in France,
and one here, befides numbers of that nation
icattered about the world in detached fervices.
Walking out with fome of the officers yef-
terday, they ridiculed the proclamation iflued
by our court, at the beginning of the war, to
recall all Britiih fubjects ferving foreign
powers. What does the government mean?
lays one of them, by ordering us to come
home ? Let them order us bread there, and
we (hall be glad to return of our own accord.
It js better however to ferve a foreign power

than

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 23

than ftarve in Ireland. I believe you here
fee the fentiments of half the Irifh nation,
for I fuppofe near half of them are Roman
catholics, and they all declare there is no
way of living in Ireland, for perfons of their
perfuafon, without they have independent
fortunes.

I intend to go to-morrow to Naples.

B 4 LET*

24 LETTERS FROM

LETTER HI.

Naples, Tuefday, Feb. 24, 1761.
8 o'clock in the morning.

LJPON my arrival at this place I received
your letter, and mall, in conference of it,
relinquim nly expedition to Sicily and Malta,
and return to England. As I njuft wait how-
ever for the informations, which you will
agree with me are fo necefYary, I mall flowly
continue my journey homewards, till frefh
advice gives fpurs to my inclination.

I fet out from Capua, as I told you I in-
tended to do, on Tuefday morning, that is
this day feven-night. As there are but two
pofts, or one change of horfes, between
Capua and this place, and as it was very early
when I fet out, you may imagine it was not late
when I got to Naples. The road was toler-
ably good, and we paffed through a middling-
town

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 1$

town, called Averfa, famous heretofore for
being the firft fovereign eftablifhment of
the Normans in this country, before thofe
brave adventurers overthrew the dominion
of the Lombards and Greeks, and eftablifhed
a flourifhing kingdom in the Two Sicilies,

— — — I have been interrupted by
a viiit from a Portuguefe gentleman, with
whom I had made an acquaintance the laft
time I was abroad. In the courfe of our con-?
yerlation, I afked him if he had any news
from Portugal, but he fays none, whether it
is that there is not really $ny, or that his
friends do not care to write what they know.
He iays, however, that the king of Portugal
was very much picqued, that the book writ-
ten in his favor fhould be burnt by the com-
mon hangman at Rome. The imprifonment
of Pagliarini, the Roman bookfeller, for pub-
liming ibmething in his defence, has
increafed his difpleafure, which is ftill
heightened by that unhappy trade fman

. having

%S LETTERS FROM

having been condemned to the galleys for
ten years. That was his fentence, but the
pope has mitigated it by changing the
galleys to his being confined in a fortrefs for
the fame time. I think there is nothing elfe
to tell yoy concerning the affairs of Portugal.

Saturday, 9 o'clock in the
morning, Feb. 28.

We have had the mod: terrible uproar
imaginable in the houfe oppofite to my
windows, merely for one woman's calling
another a w — e. The opprobrious word was
no iboner out of the offender's mouth, than
all the relations of the injured innocent, of
which there happened to be a good number
prefent, as me was in her own houfe, fell
upon the aggreffor, or rather aggrefforefs, and
with mighty blows levelled her to the ground.
But fortune fent her affiftance. Her cries
reached the ears of fome of her acquaintance.
They flew to her aid. The battle became
general. Stones and dirt flew about without

intermiffion.

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 27

intermiffion. Victory hovered over the
combatants, dubious on which party to de-
fcend. But a ferjeant with fome foldiers
entering, loon calmed the' female tumult and
all was peace. Even their tongues wrere
hufhed, which before had trumpeted to
battle in the moft warlike ftrain. So when
Neptune with his tritons appears upon the

face of the troubled waters- — -? But a

truce with fimiles, I will go to breakfaft.

A gentleman has been telling me, this
morning at breakfaft, the ftory of fome Eng-
lish failors belonging to a merchant fhip.
The thing made fome djfturbance in this
city. They got drunk and were roaming
about the town. The Neapolitan guard,
of which there are feveral placed in different
parts of this populous town, told them not to
make fuch a noife. A quarrel enfued, and
the f ailors,without any ceremony, clofed with
them and twifted all their mulkets out of
their hands. This attack upon the military

made

a8 LETTERS FROM

made great noife for fome time, but it was
at length thought proper to pafs it over.
Tho' the failors were to be fure highly in
the wrong, and were punifhable in thefe mo-
narchical countries to a high degree, I believe
fhe officers did not care to demand public
fatisfaction, for their fentinels having been
difarmed by unarmed men. In this manner
the affair dropped. — -—

LET-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 29

LETTER IV.

Saturday, March 7, 12 o'clock,
at noon. Naplfes.

11 One horfed chair, which ply about this
town like hackney coaches, has carried me
this morning to Portici. It is apleafant ride,
fome part of it along the fea-fide. Tho*
indeed the fea-fide continues but little farther
than till you are out of the. town of Naples,
but you are all the way near the beautiful
bay upon which this town is fituated* Na-
ples towards the fea is really magnificent.
As it is built in a femi-circle, and part upon
a rifing ground, it makes a great mow*
Portici is the place where the ancient Her-
culaneum flood, at leaft fo antiquarians and
learned people fay, tho' I do not think we
have any abfolute proof of it. All Dion
Caflius writes about it is as follows.

" In

3» LETTERS FROM

** Iu the mean time a moft unfpeakable
" quantity of allies, borne along by the winds,
" covered both earth and fea, and filled the
" very air. Infinite damage accrued from
" this to men and cattle. All fifh and birds
" were deftroyed, and two intire cities, Her-
" culaneum and Pompeii, were totally over-
" whelmed, while the people were fitting hi
41 the theatre."

Now as there has been a town loft, arid a:
town found, people imagine that the town
loft muft be inevitably the fame with that
difcovered, which I do not think a certain
confequence. Nor do I hold it abfolutely
certain that what they have difcovered under
ground was a town. I think they might
have found as many things in a village, or
even in a villa. They have difcovered indeed
a theatre I believe, or rather an amphithea-
tre, but fome Roman emperors had amphi-
theatres in their villas.

Monday,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c.

Monday, March 9, 5 o'clock
in the afternoon.

I am juft come from dinner at the con-
ful's, where there was much company.
Talking about Herculaneum, he fays more
authors have ipoken about that and Pompeii's
being fwallowed up befides Dion Caffius.
This certainly gives fome confirmation to
the hiftory of the fubmerfion of Hercula-
neum, but none that Herculaneum is
the identical place where the houfes now
found under ground at Portici are fituated.
The ancient authors, befides Dion Caf-
fius, that fpeak of it, are Flavius Eutro-
pius, Sextus, Aurelius Victor, Zonara, and,
fome others. Aurelius Victor I have not
feen. Zonara is merely a copier of Dion
Caffius, and Eutropius only fays in gene-
ral, that towns were deftroyed. His words
are as follow.

" At

32 LETTERS FROM

fi At this time the top of mount Ve-
" fuviiis burning, it is reported that greit
" torrents of fire were fpread all about
" Campania, and that all the neighbour-
" ing country j with its towns and menj
" were deftroyed by the flames.,,

I do not give you the words of Zonara.
for they are merely copied from Dion
Camus. He even copies Dion Camus's
lies. I call them lies, for what Dion Cal-
fius fays I can never believe. He declares
the afhes of Vefuvius flew fo far, as to reach
Rome, Africa, Syria* and Egypt.

" In fine, f.he quantity of allies was {o
" great, that part of them reached to Afri-
" ca, Syria, and Egypt, and entered Rome,
" filling all the air, and obfcuring the
« fun/'

It may be, but I think in this account

there feems to be not only a poetical hyper*

i bole,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 33

bole, but a manifefr. contradiction. Rome
ftands to the north, and Africa to the foilth
of Vefuvius, Syria to the eaft, and Egypt
to the fouth-eaft. Ames can only go with
the wind, which muft have changed moft
wonderfully to carry fuch a quantity almofl
at the fame time, to fuch different places.
It is poffible, to be fure, that the wind might
change immediately from one point to ano-
ther, but I doubt it.

NapleSj 4 o'clock afternoon,
Wednefday, March 11, 176L

M Y little chaife has carried me a great
way this morning, to behold a fight full of
horror. I have been to fee the new lava.
It has run down from the bottom of the
mountain, where it broke out, almoft to
the fea, and has croffed the road from Por-
tici to the Torre dell' Annunziata, about
four miles beyond the former place. Between
the lava and Portici there is another town,

Vol. III. C called

34 LETTERS FROM

called Torre del Greco. About half a mile
before you come to this wonder of nature,
there is an inn. It is an ill wind that blows
no perfon any good. Many people have
been ruined by the lava. The mafter of
the inn will get money. To be fure, his
houfe was in a terrible bad fituation for cuf-
torn before, but now it is the rendezvous of
all the curious, at leafr. of their chaifes and
horfes. And fo it was of mine this morn-
ing. Having left my chaife, horfe, and
chaifeman at the inn, I marched forwards
folus. It was a fine morning. My proi-
pec~t on either fide was terminated by a
wall, which did not, however, obftrucl: the
fight of fome taller elms, round which, in
due feafon, vines Were to creep, much lefs
that of Vefuvius, who reared his blafted
head above the clouds. N. B. the top was
mifty. Before me lay the lava, horrible to
behold ! I at laft came to it, mounted it,
and eroded it. Tho' I exprefs this quickly
in words, I took more time in performing

the

ITALY, GERMANYi &c. 35

the deed in reality, for I believe the lava
is nearly half a mile acrofs. Its height I
mould imagine to be that of a common
houfe, and its length, from the fides of the
mountain to the fea, four or five miles.
You may imagine from this, the quantity
of ground it has fpoilt, which was almoir,
all fertile land, and vineyards. Various
houfes tod, were in its way, which it has
occupied, flinging down fome, and fur-
rounding others. Nor is the lava quite
cold yet, in fome places, not with Handing
the many days it has been expofed to the
air. In fome parts it flill fmokes, and thofe-
burning fpots are yellowifli, or of a fulphu-
rous colour. Perhaps the having more par-
ticles of fulphur, may be the caufe of thofe
places retaining the heat longer. The refl:
looked like the infernal foil, defcribed by
Milton, who had certainly feen mount Vefu-
vius, and from thence taken many of his
ideas of hell. It is quite a new vent, which
the mountain has broken itfelf out this
C 2 time*

36 LETTERS FROM

time, and where, I believe, no perfon ex-
pected an eruption. If the lava had come
in the fame direction, but had iffued as ufual
from the top of the mountain, I do not
believe it would have done a third part of
the damage. This morning then have I feen
the effects of this prodigy of nature. I could
not help falling into a contemplative mood
while I was Itanding in the middle of the
lava and looking round. They have made
now a fort of road over it, where chaifes and
horfes may with difficulty pafs. And then,
as the lava is high, there is a great afcent
to mount up to it, and an equal defcent in
confequence to come from it. There are
the ikeletons of two houfes, the walls of
which the lava was not able to throw down,
and which ftand in the middle of it, and
make a pitiable appearance. A great {tench
of fulphur b fmelt all round it. The chaife-
men and horfemen as they paffed were crofl-
ing themfelves, and crying out, Jefu Maria !
as fait as they could.

i Having

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 37

Having fatisfied my curiofity, I returned
to Tre Cafe, the place where I had left my
chaife, which I got into, and repafling by
.La Torre del Greco and Portici, returned to
Naples.

Tomorrow I, for the firir. time, begin to
fee regularly what there is curious about
this place. An antiquarian is to attend me.
This is a wight, who by force of being
pimp, or antiquarian, (for he ferves in
both capacities,) to foreigners, gets him*
felf a livelihood. Anagni gave him birth,
Rome claims the honor of his education,
and Naples enjoys the happinefs of his pre-
fence. He may be five feet high, rather
thick than thin, or, as we mould call it junt
made, with a nofe which comes out horizon-
tally, formed very conveniently for a pair
of fpectacles to ride aftride upon, and which
indeed he generally wears. This is the
figure which is to go out with me tomorrow
for the firft time.

C 3 Saturday*

38 LETTERS FROM

Saturday, March 14, Naples,
6 o'clock in the afternoon.

I N company with my antiquarian I fet

forth this morning, as I intended, to hunt

curiofities, and arrived at the famous Grotta of

Polilipo, which is a road cut by the ancient

Romans through a mountain. Whether

begun with other views, or on purpofe to

make a road, I know not, but it is certainly

a mod ftupendous work. My hired explainer

faid, it was where fome quarries of Hone of

the ancient Romans were dug, and that in

extracting the Itone, having penetrated a

great way into the rock, the thought of

cutting it quite through entered into their

heads. They ftill get ftone from it. Its

length is feventy paces, a hundred of which

make an Italian mile. At the coming in

and going out, the two apertures are made

as large as poffible to let in the more light.

And they have bored two holes through the

top in the middle for the fame reafon. But

not with-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 39

notwithstanding, it is flill very dark and
difmal. Upon my word, if the day is cloudy,
you hardly fee your way through it. How-
ever, there are torches to be fold at both the
entrances. There is belides a general rule for
goers and coiners to keep to the right hand,
or, in their terms, the one alia marina, and the
other alia montagna, which, you know, only
means towards the mountain, or towards the
fea-fliore. I think the pafling through the
bowels of this mountain, however, is very
difagreeable. There is a dampnefs, which
muft be very unwholefome, and a certain
fmell like a vault, which is very difpleafing,
I do not know whether this fcent arifes from
being fodiftant from the furface of the earth,
and, confequently, deprived of the fun's
power, or whether it proceeds from the
dull which the coach raifes, and which has
that damp earthy ftink, tho' moft probably
from both. I at length began to emerge
from this fubterraneous paffage, and once
more to behold the light of the day, which
C 4 was

4o LETTERS FROM

was as fine in the beginning as nature ever-
beheld, and fet off the pretty country there
is the nearer you come to Pozzuoli.

Egli e un pezzo del ciel caduto in terra,

fays a Neapolitan poet. * However, we
flopped in our way, nay, even went a little
way out of it to fee the Grotta del Cane,
where there is a famous peftiferous vapor,
fatal tq the life of any animal. The place
in which it is fituated is delightful. It lies
near a fine lake called the lake of Agnano,
furrounded with gently riling hills. The
fpring too now beginning, and the leaves
budding, makes every thing look with a more
pleafing afpect. I am afraid yours is not
quite fo far advanced in England. As for*

* This is Sannazaro, I think, tho' I do not know
whether he does not allude to the country farther on
more towards Baia. The verfe gives a very droll idea,
and only means, " that it is a piece of heaven tumbled
" down upon the earth."

the

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 4*

the Grotta del Cane, I imagine you think it
a much greater place than it is. It is not
above {even or eight feet high, and two or
three in breadth and depth. A hole, you
may lay, cut out in the fide of one of the
hills. There is a door at the entrance of it,
that you may fee nothing without the affift-
ance of a man, who keeps the key, and
mews it. He lives at a village not far off.
We had {topped at his houfe in pafling. He
had faid he would come with a dog to fhew
us the experiment of the peftiferous vapor.
But he did not appear. Tired out of all
patience, we returned to the chariot which
we had left about half a mile off at the de-*
fcent into the valley. We were jufl got up
to it when the man appeared with his dog.
A council of war was called whether it was
worth while to go back again. It was at
lafl determined in the affirmative. As the
dog was ufed to thefe experiments, the poor
creature did not at all agree to the coming
down in our company. The man was

forged

42 LETTERS FROM -

forced to carry him. The grotta was opened.
His nofe was held down below the vapor,
and the wretched animal began gafping, and
in about half a minute's time lay, to all
appearance, as expiring. I told the man I
was contented with the experiment, and the
dog being flung upon the grafs, in four or
five minutes recovered. That is, after many
contortions of his body, and grinnings,
and mewing his teeth. The experiment
equally holds good tried upon any other
animal, as frogs, vipers, or any thing elfe.
We got fome frogs, which expired almolt
immediately. A piftol does not take fire
when fnapped in the vapor, a torch imme-
diately goes out when held down into it ; in
fhort, there are all the effects of bad air.
But you muft remark, that this vapor does
not raife itfelf above a foot or two from the
furface of the ground, fa that a man may
enter into the cave, for fuch it is, without
any danger. It is fufficient he does not hold
his nofe down to where the vapor* arifes4

the

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 43

the extent of which you fee plainly by the
greennefs upon the walls. It is iurprifing
to me, that being quite undivided from the
good air, efpecially when the door is open,
it does not evaporate.

LET.

44 LETTERS FROM

LETTER V.

Monday, 3 o'clock in the afternoon,
March 16, 1761, Naples.

X Was to have gone this morning with my
antiquarian to Baia, and fo have proceeded
with him to the ifland of Procida, and from
thence to that of Ifchia ; but the weather
turned out fo bad, that it was impoffible,
and fo we will finifli our laft journey, which
we can do by our fire-fides without being
expofed to the inclemencies of the iky.

From the Grotta del Cane we went to fee
certain fweating rooms near that place,
which, by natural heat, are warmer than
ever any hot-houfe was, and where fick
people come to fweat off their diforders, and
particularly thofe troubled with the diftem-
per which takes its name from the kingdom

of

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 45

of France, but which, I believe, is equally
the growth of every foil. Its effects, how-
ever, are rather different, and more pernicious
in hot than cold countries. But at the fame
time, that its poifon is ffronger, it conceals
the venom under a more placid afpecl, and
preys in fecret upon the object it has once
taken poneffion of. The French call it the
Neapolitan diftemper, but names, you know,
can not alter the effence of the difeafe, nor
prove certainly from whence it derived its
origin. Perfons afflicted with this felf-
brought evil, or with others flowing from
more involuntary fources, vifit thefe ftoves
of St. Januarius, as they call them, in the
fummer-time, and reckon the perfpiration
raifed by this natural heat conducive to the
reftoration of their health. The remedy
may be efficacious, but it feems to me a
difagreeable antidote to go in the hotteft
months in this climate into a place as hot as
you can well refpire in, and there remain
for an hour or two diflblving into a ftream.

Even

46 LETTERS FROM

Even in the month of March, I con fefs I
found the houfe too hot to hold me. There
is one good thing here, and which,- I believe,
is entirely neceffary. This is, that the heat
is in different degrees in different rooms, that
you may gradually diminifh it. For I think
to come out of the hotteft all at once into
the cold air would be almoft death to any
perfon. We took this method, and, after
having flayed a minute or two in the hottefr,
remained an equal time in that of the next
degree of heat, and fo on to the laft ; after
which we fallied out into the open air, walked
to our coach, and continued our journey to
Pozzuoli. The further we advanced, the
more beautiful the country grew, till our
coming to the fea-fhore of the bay of Baia
compleated the profpecl, and rendered it a
paradife. In diffant view lay the ifland of
Caprea, and over the promontory of Mifenum
fome of the mountains of Ifchia reared their
heads. This, together with the fertility of
the country, with now every thing budding ;

the

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 47

the murmur of the waves of the fea chafing
each other gently to the more ; the inter-
fpertion of hill and dale ; the diftant view
of Baia on the other fide of the bay ; the
nearer profpect of Pozzuoli, which we were
now approaching ; all thefe things put toge-
ther formed that pleafing fenfation which
is eafier felt than defcribed. But we were
now got fo near the town of Pozzuoli, that
the people began to run about us, and pefter
us to employ them. Some wanted us to
take their boat to Baia ; others to take their
one-horfe chair to the Solfatara ; others were
thrufting medals into the antiquarian's hand,
and defiring him to give his opinion of them.
As for Baia, we intended to put it off till
another day, fo that our thoughts were
turned entirely to the Solfatara. Being en-
tered the gate of Pozzuoli, we difmounted
from our coach, and wanted to agree with
one of the men for their one-horfed chairs,
but they alked fuch a price, that we would
not clofe with any of them, The inhabi-
tants

48 LETTERS FROM

tants of the town of Pozzuoli are juft 39
bad in an inverfe proportion as the country
about them is beautiful* They are fome of
the mod: ugly people in their looks, the
moft cheating in their behaviour, and the
moil: noify in their language, of any, I believe,
upon the face of the earth. They are
reported, likewife, in their fury to be able
to dart a knife with fuch precifion as to
wound at a diftance any particular part of
the body they aim at. But I had nothing
to do with them. My companion was to
manage all. The country people brought
him, I believe, a hundred medals to look at.
This was our diverfion, while we flood in
the middle of the great fquare of the town,
with half of its, inhabitants, I believe, round
about us. He in the mean time with gravity
received the medals one after another, and
looking at them through a glafs with an air
of authority gave his opinion. He generally
ufed to tell the country people they were
not wTorth any thing, tho* fometimes he gave

the

Italy, Germany, &c. 49

the value of a halfpenny or penny a piece
for them. Thefe, perhaps, he may fell
afterwards to foolifh foreigners for their
weight in gold. I was diverted to fee the
nifties hanging upon him in fufpenfe and
anxiety for his determination upon their
medals j and when he faid, " no, tw'ont
" do," with what a melancholy face they
walked off ! They find thefe medals in
plowing the fields about Pozzuoli, and rum-
maging among the ruins, of which there
are as great a quantity here as in any fpot in
Italy. The Romans muft have liked this
foliation exceflivelyj and* indeed, they were
in the right of it, for it is a molt delightful
fpot, tho' the air is faid now to be bad iii
fummer time. As we could not agree with
any perfon to carry us to the Solfatara for a,
reafonable price, we refolved to go there on
foot. I ordered the valet de place I had
brought with me to buy us fome fim for our
dinner, and we then fet forward ; but we
had not gone many fteps before one of the
Vol. Ill, D chaife-

50 LETTERS FROM

chaifemen called us back, and came down
pretty near to our price. We agreed with
him, the chaife was got ready in a few
minutes, and all thoughts of going on foot
laid afide. The chaifeman rode behind
as ufual with the whip. We were hardly
got out of Pozzuoli than we met an Engliih
gentleman, juft come from Aix la Chapelle
hither on horfebaek. The Solfatara is not
above a mile and a half from the town, but as
the road was bad, we were a good while in
going it. The country pretty, as every
where about Pozzuoli, till we come to the
Solfatara, which is fituated in a valley fur-
rounded with hills, in the fame manner as
the Grotta del Cane, only there is no lake
in the middle, and no fertility. On the
contrary, through a great part of the valley
not a blade of grafs grows. The Solfatara
itfelf coniifts in two or three columns of
fmoke, which iflue with fury and noife out
of fome holes in the earth. The vapor that
comes out of the ground is very thick. By
i putting

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 51

putting ftones over the apertures, from
whence it proceeds, they have got a way of
catching fome part of the ftream, which
adheres to the ftones, and in part is con-
gealed, or, more properly, coagulated under
them, and becomes allum and I do not know
what all. They get a great many other
things of the fame nature out of this valley,
and in particular fulphur in great abundance,
for it is mixed with the earth almoft all
about, by putting a quantity of which into
a cauldron, they by force of fire melt the
fulphur, and then ftrain. it off from the
caput mortuum. The ground all about here
is hollow, at leafr, if we may judge from
its found. People can not dig to fee, for the
lower you defcend, the hotter it grows, till
the men are no longer able to work. They
fay there is a communication between the
Solfatara and Vefuvius, and I believe it verv
pofiible, notwithftanding they are ten or
twelve miles diftant from each other. If
what they report be true, it feems to be a.

D 2 proof

52 LETTERS FROM

proof of it, which is, that when Vefuvius
rages, the fury of the Solfatara decreafes hi
great meafure, and on the contrary. A
Florentine has hired the land of the pro-
prietors, (I think it belongs to fome convent
or other,) and makes what advantages he
can of the productions of it. After having
left this horrid view, confiding only in the
barren valley and {teams of fmoke, the
country in returning to Pozzuoli made
amends. We went a different way from that
we came, in order to go through the ancient
town of Pozzuoli, or Puteoli, as the Romans
called it ; of which there are only ivy-grown
remains difcernable. But by the great vef-
tiges of buildings, it mull have been a very
confiderable place formerly. There are the
ruins of a vail edifice, which my antiquarian
told me was the temple of Neptune. How
he knows it I can not tell, except he judges
from the fine view it has of the fea, that
it mull have been dedicated to the god of
the ocean. He mewed me a place under

ground,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. S3

ground, which he denominated a burying
place. It had a number of a kind of pigeon
holes, where, he fays, the afhes were put
in their urns. It may be. The ceiling of
the vault was ftuccoed hi figures. I was
glad to get out of it, for our torches made
fuch a fmoke and ftink, that I could hardly
bear it. Upon our return to Pozzuoli we
fat ourfelves down to dinner, which had
been prepared by the valet de place in our
abfence. You know thefe valet de places are
fervants a foreigner is obliged to take in
every great town to get him what he wants,
and conduct him where he choofes to go.
They are of little ufe except to an entire
ftranger, but it is a fort of tax upon travel-
lers. Our dinner confided in fome cold
meat we had brought along with us, and a
fifli bought at Pozzuoli by the fervitor de
piazza, or valet de place. I mud ufe either
the French or Italian name, as we have no
Englifh appellation for them. The wine
was not bad, tho' not worthy of the praifes
D 2 Horace

«2

54 LETTERS FROM

Horace has given to the Falernian grape,
notwithstanding we were not very diftant
from the fpot faid to have produced that
much celebrated liquor. A confufed multi*
tude of failors came and made a noife in our
room all dinner time. They wanted me
to agree to go to Ifchia with them, as they
knew I had intentions of making that ifland
a vifit fome other day. Others brought medals
and things of that nature for my virtuofo's
opinion. He treated all the country people
in his ufual way. Upon my word, it is the
drollelr. thing in the world to fee how they
wrould lengthen their countenances upon his
telling them that what they thought a very
fine medal was not worth a halfpenny.
After dinner we went to fee another tem-
ple, which I think he called the temple
of Jupiter Ammon, or Jupiter fomething or
other, which has been difcovered but four
or five years. It was before covered with
earth, and lay undiftinguifhed. Whether
it is true or no I can not fay, but my learned

companion.

ITALY, GERMANY, Src. 55

companion declared he was the caufe of its
difcovery. There were three columns that
reared their heads about half way above
ground. He propofed digging to the bafe
of them. They found a large marble pave-
jnent entire. All other things, I fuppofe,
were broken and del troy ed by the fall of the
roof. You fee, however, half walls {land-
ing, that form a number of little rooms,
round about the temple, which he allured
me were for the people to warn themfelves
in before they entered it. In fact, there are
iron pipes and channels cut in the flone, that
look as if they once conducted water ; but
whether for the ablutionary purpofe he fays,
is, I believe, very uncertain. There was
much more marble than what is to be feeci
at prefent, but the king took away whatever
lay loofe, not touching any thing that was
fixed, which he faid he would leave to the cu-
rious. By the king, I mean Don Carlos, who
is now king of Spain, not the prefent king of
Naples, who is only a boy, and I believe

D 4 has

56 LETTERS FROM

has faid nothing yet at all about antiquities.
Such was the temple of Jupiter which I
then faw, but meafured nothing, as the
guard there told me it was not allowed for
any perfon to do it, and which, indeed, I
never intended. After having infpecled the
whole, we returned to the houfe where we
dined, from which this temple flood but at a
little diftance. It was lucky it was not farther,
for the uncertain month of March had begun
the day with a fine morning, and wanted
to conclude it with rain. Indeed, it now
began to pour very hard, but it was not of
fo much fignirication to us, as we had only
to get into our coach and drive away to
Naples.

LET-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 57

LETTER VI.

Naples, half part nine morning,
Saturday, March 21, 1761.

ONTuefday^IwenttofeeHercula-
neiim, and the palace at Portici, with my
Cicerone, On Wednefday we went to Baia,
abandoning our fcheme to Ifchia. On Thurf-
day I was upon the top of mount Vefuvius?
and was yefterday employed in feeing holy
week ceremonies. I do not much love thefe
religious functions, but I could not refufe
attending fome company, who preffed me.
They would make me dine with them too.
Accordingly, about one o'clock I trotted to
the conful's on foot, for there are no coaches
permitted to go about from twelve o'clock
at noon on Wednefday, till twelve o'clock
at noon to-day. The reafon of this is, its
being the holy week, and in memory and

penance

58 LETTERS FROM

penance for our Saviour's crucifixion, there
is a general requiem given to all horfes.
Not fo to the men. For the ladies are
carried, for humility's fake, about town in
very fine chairs, loaded with Ornaments,
under the weight of which, two bedizened
chairman groan. For humility's fake thefe
fair penitents are drelfed out as fmart as the
holy week's mourning will permit them,
with two pages on each fide of their chair,
every feam in whofe coats is covered with
fcroad gold, or filver lace. Befides thefe
two diftinguifhed gentlemen, a troop of fer-
vants bring up the rear. Thus went the
Neapolitan ladies, rendering all due humility
and veneration to the feafon. Many of thefe
glittering trains we met, when we fallied
out after dinner on foot. The light we
were going to fee was the king, iurrounded
by all his nobles, marching in proceflion,
to vifit two or three churches, and worfhip
the fepulchres in them. When I fay fepul-
chres, you may imagine I was going to fee

fomething

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 59

fomething like the tombs in Weftminfter
abbey. No, holy week fepulchres, in Roman
catholic countries, mean our Saviour buried,
or, as I ought rather to fay, extended upon
the bier, with the Virgin Mary weeping
over him. This is reprefented more or lefs
finely, according to the churches. This is
what his majefty was going to fee, in three
or four different reprefentations. And this
was the fight we were alfo walking forth to
be fpe&ators of. The day was fine. The
fea was calm. Father Vefuvius flept. By
this you may judge, our road lay near the
fea, It did fo. The whole bay of Naples
flood expofed to our view. But at laft, we
came to the royal palace, which intercepted
the profpecl: of the water. It has a beau*
tiful iituation, but expofed to be cannon-
aded by the fhips of an enemy. Laft war
fome veflels of ours appeared off Naples,
fent by admiral Matthews, under commo-
dore Martin, and threatened, not only to
lay the palace, but the town in afhes. The

officer

£o LETTERS FROM

officer who came on more is reported to have
taken out his watch and laid :t upon the
table before the king, telling his majefty,
he could give him only half an hour to
determine, whether he would recall his
troops from the Spanifh army, and, upon
the king's complaining of the mortnefs of the
time, he only dryly replied, that five minutes
were already expired. The town was fo
incapable of defence, that it was thought
proper to comply, and the Neapolitan troops
were, by capitulation, drawn off from thofe
of Spain, which was an advantage to the
queen of Hungary, if it had been well
executed. The Neapolitans were afraid we
Ihould have landed, but one father Pepe,
a frier, had fo frightened them with the
idea of letting heretics fet foot in their
country, that I believe they would all have
taken up arms againft. us, if we had at-
tempted it, notwithstanding there were a
great many in Naples that certainly fa-
vored the queen of Hungary's party. Con-
tinuing

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 6t

tinuing our walk, we at laft got to the bal-
cony where we were to fee the proceflion
pafs. Tho' we had hurried out immediately
after dinner, we (as it happens in all fuch
cafes) ftaid about an hour before the king
appeared. All the officers came firft, in
their different uniforms, and divided accord-
ing to their different regiments. After them
came the pages, then the place-men of the
court, and the little king, furrounded by the
principal of them. And laft of all foldiers
in quantity. This was all that was to be
feen. We then adjourned to the church of
the Pieta to hear the miferere, and fee one
of the fepulchres. We got up pretty near
the altar, where we remained till the mufic
was over, which lafted a long time. As for
the fepulchre there was nothing extraor-
dinary in it, but the mufic was divine.

Naples,

62 LETTERS FROM

Naples, three o'clock afternoon!,
Sunday, March 22, 1761.

O N Tuefday the feventeenth of March,
as I have already told you, I and my anti-
quarian fet out with an intention of going
to Portici, which we did. We there faw
the miferable remains of Herculaneum. Our
journey, indeed, began rather inaufpicioufly^
for we had hardly paffed a handfome bridge,
called the Magdalen bridge, in our way to
Portici, than our coach broke down. We
told the coachman to mend it with ropes,
or fome how or other as well as he could,
and walked on. We had two or three
miles to Portici. However, walking on
gently, we got to the entrance of the town,
or rather village, that goes under that name.
There is a long infcription fet up here, with
regard to mount Vefuvius, which now lay
full in our view. As I had got a pencil,
and we chofe to wait for the coach, not to

appear

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 63

appear at the king's palace without a car-
riage, I leant upon the bulk of a baker's
Ihop, and tranfcribed it. It is as follows.

* Pofteri! Pofteri !

Veftra res agitur.

Dies faciem praefert diei nudius perendino.

Advertite !

Vicies ab fatu Solis nifi. fabulatur Hiftoria

Arfit Vefaevus,

Immani femper clade haefitantium.

Ne pofthac incertos occupet moneo,

Uterum gerit mons hie

Bitumine, alumine, ferro, fulphure, auro, argento,

Nitro, aquarum fontibus, gravem.

Serius ocyus ignefcet, pelagoque influente pariet,

Sed ante parturit

Concutitur, concutitque folum,

Fumicat, corufcat, flammigerat,

Quatit aerem,

Horrendum immugit, boat, tonat, arcet finibus accolas.

Emica dum licet,
Jam Jam enititur, erumpit, mixtum igne lacum evomit,

Precipiti

* Pofterity ! Pofterity I
Of your concerns I treat.

From

64 LETTERS FROM

Precipiti ruit ille lapfu, feramque fugam praevertit,

Si corripit, aftum eft, periifhi.

Ann. Sal. MDCXXXI. XVI Kal. Jan.

Philippo IV Rege,

Emanuele Fonfeca et Zunica comite Montis regii

Pro-Rege,

Repetita fuperiorum temporum calamitate fubfidiifque calamitatlj

Humanius quo munificentius.

Formidatus fervavit, fpretus oppreffit, incautos et avidos*

Quibus Lar et Supellex vita potior

Turn tu li fapis audi clamantem lapidem,

Sperne Larem, fperne farniculas, mora milla fuge.

Antonio Suares Meffia Marchione Viei

Prafe&o viarum*

Before I had fmifhed copying the infcrip-
tion the coach came up with us, mended as

well

From length of time instruction is derived.

Beware !

Full twenty times fince the creation of the fun, if hiftory

be true, hath Vefuvius burned,

Overwhelming the tardy with deftru&ion.

That no perfon may hereafter undergo its dire efFec^s>

This marble tells them,

That the mountain which yoiit behold,

Eears

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 6$

well as the fhort time permitted. We got
into it, and drove to the king's palace,

which

Bears vvithih its womb, quantities of
Pitch, alum, iron, fulphur, gold, filver,
Nitre and fprings of water.
Sooner or later will it kindle, and, influenced by the Tea.
produce to light
Its entrails.
But, before the monftrous birth,
It fhakes the earth, and is itfelf fhaken j
It fmokes, fparkles, flames,
Impels the air,
With horrid roar, bellows, thunders,
And from its confines drives the labourer.
Do thou fly fwift,
While fortune gives thee opportunity.
See ! fee ! it labours, it burfts, it emits a lake of fire,
which with headlong fall rufhing, preoccupies the flow.
If it feizes thee, thou art loft.
In the year of our fafety 1631,
Philip IV. being king.
Emanuel Fonfeca and Zunica, count of
Monte Real, Viceroy,
Who, upon the renewal of the calamities of former
times, has renewed the
Vol, III. E Affifhnce

66 LETTERS FROM

which, as I think I have already faid, ftands
nearly over the fpot of the ancient Hercu-
laneum, or of the ancient ruins which go
under that name. We waited a long time
before we could meet with the man who
keeps the key of the palace, to (hew it us,
There is nothing, however, very particular,
tho' all very fine and pleafing. The Itair-
cafe pretty, and the rooms gay. One full
of pictures, another full of Englim furni-
ture, another of china, and fo on. The
china cabinet, for fo they call the room,

AfMance given in them

With equal humanity and generofity.

The fearful hath this mountain fpared, but it oppreffeth

its contemners, particularly thofe uncautious

miiers, who prefer their houfes and

effects to life.

Thou therefore, if wife, hear this marble, which cries out

to thee. Leave thine houfehold gods, leave

thy wealth, and fly with hafty ftep.

Antonio Suares Mefliah Marquis del Vico,

Surveyor of the ways.

furnimed

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 67

furnifhed with that manufacture, is a very jem-
crack thing indeed. The ornaments were made
at a fabric of china which the king of Spain
had fet up at Naples, but which he has now
removed to Madrid* Tho' they did not
work bad, yet they never equalled Drefden
china, or fome other European fabrics. The
king's palace at Portici has a pretty view.
It looks over a garden into the fea. What
you will think odd is, that the high road
pafles through the middle of the great court
of it, but that is to be altered when the
palace is finimed, and a road cut between
the gardens and the fea. From the palace,
we went to fee Herculaneum, which is not
above a hundred fteps off. We could not
go the common way of defcending under
ground, as a peftife'rous exhalation had taken
pofleffion of the paffage. Thefe poifonous
vapours are the confequence of eruptions
from mount Vefuvius. I think they fay they
are owing to effluvia proceeding from the
lava which the mountain emits. The effects
E 2 generally

68 LETTERS FROM

generally extend themfelves to feveral part's
of the adjacent country. There is a cellar
or two in Portici, where the people cannot
go in now, upon- account of it. Its noxious
properties rarely break out but in low and
inclofed places, where there is not a -free
ventilation of the air. My fervitore de piaz-
za went to fmell a little at it, at the en-
trance into Herculaneum, but he foon re-
treated. I think he complained of a ful-
phureous fuffocating fmell. I did not care
to go and try the experiment, for fear of its
making my head ache. We found a bird
dead there. The poor little animal, not
confcious of the infection, had perched itfelf
upon fome of the lower branches of the
fhrubs near the entrance, and not having
fenfe enough to retire quickly, fell a rnartyr
to the mofeta, for that is the name the peo-
ple of the country give to this corrupted
air. The vapour remains fometimes five or
fix months in the places where it has chofen
to eilablifli its quarters, for tho* it comes

pretty

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 69

pretty much of a fudden, its retreat is by
little and little. Probably, by fomething
of this kind was Pliny's uncle killed, for
it feems improbable his althrna fhould have
had fo immediate an effecl, as to cauie him
to drop down dead, while he was walking
along. The common paifage down to Her-
culaneum being thus occupied, with all that
part of the fubterraneous town near it, we
were obliged to enter by another way, where
the theatre is, and which, upon account of
the mofeta, was the only thing we could
fee. However, as this building b pretty
nearly entire, it was more than Sufficient to
fhew, that it had been once the fcene of
diverhon and entertainment, now the ieat
of darknefs and defolation. The lava is
above thirty feet high over it. If we had
not this proof, it would have been folly to
have imagined the mountain could have
thrown out fo much matter. The people
undoubtedly had time to fave themfelves, as
J think but one Ikeleton has been found in

E 3 all

70 LETTERS FROM

all their excavations. They not only faved
their own perfons, but carried away their
mod: valuable effects, as only ftatues and
heavy things are left, that could have been
worth much to the owners. After we had
been all about the theatre by the light of
torches, notwithftanding there is a little day
let into the middle of it, by a hole cut up to
the furface of the lava, we returned to enjoy
once more the rays of the fun, which
fhone with full beams upon us all the way
back to Naples, as it was a very fine day,
On Thurfday we went to Baia. As far as
Pozzuoli, was the fame road we had been
before. We here took a boat with fix oars,
to crofs over the famous bay of Baia. Ima-
gine me now upon the fea, which was in a
perfect calm, with a delightful country all
round, and what heightened the romantic-
nefs of the fcene, was to hear the man who
fteered fing, with a manly voice, fome ruftic,
but expreilive words, relative to the perfi-
dioufnefs of that element, which was fmil*

jng

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 71

ing indeed now, but might foon be deform-
ed with ftorms.

Being arrived to the fhore of Baia, we left
our provifions and fome fifh we had brought,
to be drefTed and taken care of at a little inn,
and walked up the country to fee what was
to be feen. We faw Nero's prifons, as they
are called, tho* I believe it very uncertain
whether that cruel emperor built them ;
however they feem very worthy of the con-
trivance of a tyrant. You defcend to them
with a number of lighted torches, for they
are entirely under ground. They confift in a
number of cells, divided from each other by
walls of great thicknefs. I confefs the fight
of thefe fubterraneous dungeons, whatever
was their ufe, made me enter into myfelf,
and, as I imagined they really were pri-
fons, I could not help reflecting, how many
wretches might have paffed filent years there
without having once feen the fun, or might
have been cruelly murdered without hearers
E 4 of

72 LETTERS FROM

of their groans. Tho' I remained but a
little time in thefe blind caverns, I really
felt myfelf happy when I emerged into
open air, and beheld the beautiful fcenes
which flouriflied all around. We then went
to what they call the Pifcina mirabilis,
which is a let of arches, where there pro?
bably was water, but to what end, my anti-
quarian did not make clear to me. But why
mould I defcribe to you all the ivy-covere4
ruins, with which this country abounds.
Temples and palaces have fallen a facrifice
to the devouring hand of time. " Yes,
" they fall (fays Arioflo,) the mightiefl
" cities, the mofl afpiring kingdoms fall.
" Behold ! weeds and defert fand now op-
" prefs the once iiluftrious Thebes and
«f Carthage !"

Cadono le citta, cadono i regni
Copre Tebe e Cartago erba ed arena.

But

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 73

But the melancholy arifen from feeing
thefe miferable veftiges of Roman manifi?-
cence, was diffipated by the charms of the
country, with the promontory of Mifenum
extended beyond it. It frill preferyes its
ancient name, (Mileno) and Virgil's pro-
phecy was true, when fpeaking of Eneas
burying his pilot Mifenus there, he fays

Imponit fuaque arma viro, remumque tubamque
Monte fub aerio, qui nunc Mifenus ab illo
Dicitur, aeternumque tenet per faecula nomen.

After we had feen every thing we returned
to the inn j where dinner was ready for us.
We had our table fet upon the margin of
the fea, and eat to the muiic of the refound-
ing waves. Dinner over we reimbarked,
and rowed about a mile, to fome naturally
hot ftoves, of which there are a great numr
ber in this country. It feems furprifing, as
you go in, to find you breathe cooler air
the more you ftoop your head, but the won-
der ceafes when you know, that at the end

of

74 LETTERS FROM

of thefe fubterraneous vaults there is a
boiling hot fountain, the vapor of which
naturally afcends, as high as the cavern's
roof will permit it. The fand here under
the fea is hot, and if you take it up in your
hands burns them. The water however,
that lies above it, preferves its natural cool-
nefs. Indeed the whole country about Na-
ples, for fulphur and fire, is the moft curi-
ous I ever faw. From hence we went by
land to a place called the Cumean Sibyl's
Grotta. I do not know by what authority
this name is given to it. There are a great
many of thefe fubterraneous paflages in
Italy, I can not think what could be the
reafon of the Romans having made fo many
of them. This Cumean Sibyl's cave, is
iituated upon what they call the lake of
Averno, with as much foundation, I believe,
as the former. On the other fide, there are
the ruins of a fabric which antiquarians
have likewife taken the liberty to intitle,
the temple of Apollo. The Romans fay,

the

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 75

the lake of Averno was peftiferous, and Vir-
gil tells us, that the birds in flying over it
fell down dead, but what I then beheld
was quite the contrary. Pure gales breathe
around it, and all nature fmiles. To recon-
cile this difference, my companion aflured
me, that the lake had purified itfelf by
time. It may be fo. From hence we
went to another famous piece of water,
called the Lucrine lake. But this, inftead
of receiving advantage from length of time,
has loft above half its extent. A mountain,
faid to have rifen fuddenly out of the earths
during the fpace of one night, has almoll:
covered it. This latter phenomenon, I
believe, may be fpoken of with more cer-^
tainty than the water covered by the moun*
tain being part of the Lucrine lake. Firft
of all, this fudden rife of hills, (for it is a
hill, not a mountain,) in the fulphureous
ground about Naples, is not without exam*
pie. Vefuvius has done the fame lately,
and pqfhed up divers little hills, out of

which

76 LETTERS FROM

which he lately vented that prodigious quan-
tity of lava. There was an aperture at the
top of each, out of which the lava iffued.
There were five or fix of thefe hills at
firft, but two or three of them are fallen
in, the reft, in all probability, will remain
to eternity. Why may not our prefent
hill then, have been raifed fomehow or
other in the fame manner ? They fay it
is compofed of a fort of pumice flones,
and fulphureous matter. Befides, as it is
an affair that happened much later than
the lateft account we have of the Lucrene
lake, it ought to be more certain. The
cheating, never-to-be-contented country*
fellows, that accompanied us to mew thefe
things, wanted us to buy fome fifh at a
treble price, for their coming out of the
remainder of this water. As I never had
the fury of antiquity upon me, you may
think they did not appear a bit more valu-
able to my eyes, than if they had fwum
in any other flream, and I confe-quently

decline^

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 77

declined the purchafe. This did not quite
pleafe the venders, which gave me no great
concern. After having difpatched as well
as we could thefe grumbling fellows, and
re-entered our bark, we coafted agreeably
enough all the way back to Pozzuoli, which
was two or three miles. We here got into
our chariot, and rolled in a pleafant even-
ing back to Naples.

LE T-

78 LETTERS FROM

LETTER VIL

Tuefday, 10 o'clock in the morning.,
March 24, 1761, Naples.

I

Go to Capua to night, where I fhall
itay two or three days. To give you now
my journey to the top of Vefuvius. We
only ftopt at Portici a moment or two to
buy fome bread, as it is reckoned to be very
good. This we joined to two fowls and a,
tongue, which we had brought along with
us, and which were to ferve us after our
defcent from the mountain. Our chariot
then carried us to Refina, a village not much
above a mile from Portici, where wheels
can proceed no farther. In confequence,
each get upon a jack-afs, of which animals
the neighbouring inhabitants have always
plenty to accommodate Vefuvian travellers.
The whole village wanted to follow us, but
i tickets

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 79

tickets diftributed by my antiquarian con-
fined the number, and left the red: fcolding
behind. Notwithftanding the uneafinefs of
my feat upon a pack-faddle, I could not
avoid entering into the mirth of the com-
pany, which confifted in feven or eight
men, befides my antiquarian and fervitor di
piazza. This latter is nick- named Papa-
riello, and is the raoft like a monkey of any-
human creature I ever yet beheld. I do not
fee how by any definition you could diftin-
guifh him from that man-imitating animal,
which certainly anfwers to the homo of the
logicians, animal bipes zmplume, but a plucked
turkey would do the fame. Should you
attempt to particularize a monkey, calling
him an irrational creature, with his nofe
jutting in at the top, prominent cheek bones,
and the lower part of h^s face advancing
outwards beyond the upper, this all anfwers
to Papariello. His mother was certainly
frightened by a baboon when pregnant, and
framped the image which caufed her terror

upon

So LETTERS FROM

upon the embrjo. If I was to meet Papa-
riello in the wiids of Ana or Africa, I mould
run away for fear. But as I knew I was
near Naples, and that the being which
followed me was only a domeflic fervitore
di piazza, I let it grin and chatter behind
me with our auxiliary attendance. At
length we were obliged to quit our jack-
aflss, and truft to our own feet, as the
fteepnefs of the mountain permitted none
but rational creatures to proceed any far-
ther. Before us not a blade of grafs grew.
Every thing was blafted and defolate. And
yet, if we may believe Martial, the fides of
this mountain were formerly very fruitful.
But in the epigram in which he exprefles
this, he fays, their beauty was deftroyed by
an eruption which happened in his time, I
fuppofe that under Titus. It is the 105th of
the fecond book, and the words are as follow,

Hie eft pampineis viridis Vefuvius umbris,
Prefferat hie madidos nobilis uva lacus,

H*c

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. $*

Hsec juga quam Nifoe colles plus Bacchus amavit,
Hoc nuper Satyri monte dedere choros.
Haec Veneris fedes, Lacedemone gratior illi,
Hie locus Herculeo nomine clarus erat.
Cuncla jacent flammis, et trifti merfa favilla,
Nee fuperi vellent hoc licuhTe fibi,

Martial's epigram too proves the fubmer-
fion or ruin of Herculaneum, at leaft, you
fee he favs, that once there was a famous
place here of that name,

Hie locus Herculeo nomine clarus erat.

But the idea of Mount Vefuvius at prefent
is certainly very different from what Martial
would give us of it in his fix nrft, lines.
Horror and defolation reign every where.
The foil nothing but lumps of lava and
afhes. The afhes make it very difficult
to get up to the top, as your feet flip back
and you gain very little ground. This was
the diverhon which I was going to enjoy
for an hour and a half. Paparieilo remained
at the bottom chattering with one of the men

Vol. II. F belonging

ti LETTERS FROM

belonging to the beafts, he to take care of
our provilions, and the man of his jack-aftes.
In the mean time I was laboring at the
afcent. I had three men to affift me, two
of whom preceded with handkerchiefs about
their waifts, which I had hold of, and the
third pufhed my moulders behind. I foon,
however, transferred my tergal afliftant to
the antiquarian, who feemed to ftand in mod
need of him. After many ftoppings to take
breath, we at laft arrived at what they call
the while Jlone, about half a mile from the
top of the mountain, where we fat down
to reft and warm ourfelves, as the ground
was hot, and counterbalanced the mill and
wind we had afcended to. Meanwhile one
of our men was fent up to the mouth of
Vefuvius, to fee whether its horrid gape
was vihble, for fometimes there is fo much
fmoke, you can fee nothing. The mouth,
as I have already told you, is about half a
mile from this white ftone, or rather black
ftone ; for, if it was to be denominated from
i its

tTALV, GERMANY, &c. Sj

its colour, it ought rather to have the latter
appellation. Two or three years ago it was
thrown, they fay, out of the mouth of Ve-
suvius. Surprifing, if true, how weights of
that fort can be toiTed about in the air ! This
fr,one is almofl as tall as a man> and roundifh.
It ought rather to be called a piece of a rock.
But our man being now arrived to the mouth
of Vefuvius, hallooed to us to come up, a
fign of its dreary opening being vifible.
We fet out accordingly, affifled in the fame
manner as before, and at laft arrived at the
brink of the precipice. As I did not care
to follow the fate of Empedocles, I was a
a little cautious at firir. in looking down, and
when I looked there was fo much fmoke,
I could not fee any thing at alL I thought
the countryman we had fent before had
deceived us in making us come up. How-
ever, I found that by fixing your eyes for
fome time upon the gulf, the wind at certain
periods blew the fmoke away juft enough
to have a peep. What I faw was horrid,
F ^ but

$4 LETTERS FROM

but it was not a bottomlefs gulf, as I had
imagined. I faw a great defcent of rugged
and torn rocks, but ftill I could behold
the bottom of them. My antiquarian ex-
plained this to me by telling me that the
mouth had been open, and the circumference
of the precipice twice as extenfive, till a late
eruption, which had made it fall in, and
jammed it up in the manner I then faw.
That this was the caufe, in the lafr, eruption,
of the mountain's having burft an opening
at the bottom, as not being able to throw
out its matter at the ufual mouth, and find-
ing the fides weaker and more eafy to force
than the fummit, it had vented itfelf that
way. But in all probability it will in time
open itfelf a frefh vent in the old place.
However, you may imagine that the mouth
is not fo clofed as not to leave a paffage
fufficient for the fmoke to iflue from. Nay,
ftones and afhes came out during the erup-
tion below. But then the cavities wind
about fo among the ragged precipices of the

crater a

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 85

cratera, that you can not look down them.
The cratera, or cup, is the term of art em-
bracing the whole circumference and exten-
sion of the mouth of the mountain. The
brink of this abyfs may be now about a
mile in circumference, and formerly was
above two miles, till the mouth fell in.
Tho' we had taken care to get to the wind-
ward, yet Still from time to time the fmoke
troubled us. As it was impregnated with
fulphur and other infernal particles, it was
not only difagreeable to the fmell, but, I
believe, even dangerous to Stay in long.
You know the fumes of a match almofl
Stifle you. Think then how Strong the
effecls of all this fulphur together ought to
be. However, the common men venture
a little down the beginning of this precipice,
as a fellow did to get a lady's hat, when (he
went to the top of the mountain, and which
blew off while me was Standing upon the
brink of the cratera, as I now was. I think
the man hazarded his life for the fake of a
F 3 trifle

86 LETTERS FROM

trifle me promifed. Not that there was
any danger of his rolling down into thofe
cavities from whence the fmoke iffued, but
from the noxious effluvia of the fmoke it-
felf. When the mouth throws out fire,
you may imagine no perfon can go even
where I was now {landing ; however, that
is only fome few months in the year, but it
almoft always emits fmoke. After having
fatisfied our eyes fufficiently with this won-
der of nature, we fat out upon our return*
The men and I ran as hard as we could quite
down to the white ftone. Every ftep I took
was almoft up to my knees in afhes. The
old antiquarian was puffing half way behind.
I took the opportunity of this delay to pull
off my fhoes, and free them from the quan-
tity of allies that had fluffed them in my
precipitate defcent. Upon our fecond fiart-
jner, I arrived alfo at the bottom much
fooner than my companion. I here in com-
pany with Papariello and our jack-afles
found a French friar, who was waiting our

return,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. $7

return. He calls himfelf the hermit of
Vefuvius, at the bottom of which he has a
little cell where he lives. When he fees
any ftrangers going up to the top of the
mountain, he prepares fome buifcuits, wine,
fruit, and other things, and meets them in
humble tone upon their return to the bot-
tom. But you mull: not think this is all
done out of charitable hofpitality. It goes,
indeed, under that name, but the holy
father expects double the price to be put into
his alms-box for a recompence. Thefe pro-
yiiions being joined to our own, we fat down
upon the ground, and began to regale ourfelves
after our fatigue. The place where we
were making our ruftic dinner was delight-
ful. As we were upon a riling ground, tho'
at what is generally called the bottom of
the hill, all Naples lay difcovered to our
view. A calm fea beyond, interfperied with
the iflands of Procida, Caprea, Nifida, and
Ifchia, heightened the profpecl. This added
to the pretty and variegated country delow
F 4 us,

8S LETTERS FROM

us, full of houfes and villages, compleated
the fcerie. What with this beautiful prof-
pect, eating our provifions, and drinking
the friar's good wine, which he called La-
crymas Chrifti, tho' I believe it was not
genuine, we all waxed very merry. The
friar too, notwithftanding his long beard,
penitential habit, and the crucifixes tied to
his girdle of rope, was extremely facetious.
In inort, we palled an hour very agreeably,
till it was time to fet off and return to
Naples. In our way thither we flopped at
Portici to fee his majefty's mufeum of the
curiofities dug out of the ruins of Hercula-
rieum. I was forced to enter here alone,
as they have no good opinion of antiqua-
rians, tho' every curiofity of portable weight
is under lock and key, and only feen through
wires. There were all forts of utenfils,
corn, bread, books, thread, and I do not
know what all. However, as I am no an-?
tiquarian myfeif, I did not flay fo long to

feed

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. S9

feed my eyes with thefe footy * remains, as
another might have done. In about half
an hours time I fufficiently fatisfied my
curiofity, and returned to Naples ; but before
I left the apartments I could not avoid going
into a room, where a friar was attempting to
read fome of the books. It is a moil tirefome
occupation, as they are folded up in the old
Roman manner, and the vellum breaks to
pieces when you attempt to open them.
I do not think he will make much of it, tho'
he endeavours lightly to glue the fragments
upon a piece of paper. What he was work-
ing at was Greek, and the letters were vifi-
ble, as they are fometimes upon a meet of
writing that is burnt. Before I conclude
this paper I will juft inform you that Her-
culaneum was discovered accidentally by
the digging of a well. After having de-

* This colle&ion has fince been confiderably encreafed
by the difcovery of Pompeii, where, however, they go
on digging but very flowly.

fcended

00 LETTERS FROM

fcended a considerable depth they were very
much furprifed to find a column of marble,
and upon going a little lower they foun4
other ruins, which was the reafon of the
king's ordering his people to continue the
work. By thefe means was difcovered the
furprifing city of Herculaneum, for fuch

1 can no longer doubt it to be from in-*
fcriptions, but the memory of whole de-
flruction was almofr, effaced. I fhall only
add a remark of the late queen of Naples,
now queen of Spain, who, upon defiring
her hufband not to build in that place,
told him, that as he was digging out
what belonged to others, fo others might
hereafter dig out his prefent buildings*
if he continued his intention, which his
then Sicilian majefty did, notvvithflanding
Jiis royal conibrt's admonition.

Capua,

ITALY, GERMANY, fee $%

Capua, nine o'clock at night,
Wednefday, March 25, 1761.

I arrived here laft night, and after dinner
with the governor to day, he carried me in
his equipage to the place where old Capua
ftood, and where Hannibal's army is faid to
have become enervated. It is about two
miles from the prefent city, which is built
upon the river ^Vulturnus. There are the
ruins of an amphitheatre, with other re-
mains, which point out plainly the fituation.
It was anciently a confiderable place, but the
great revolutions this country has undergone
has changed almoft every thing. I will
give, as ufual, a flight fketch of them.

After the deftrudtion of the Roman em-
pire, the kingdom of the two Sicilies, like
the reft of Italy, paffed under the dominion
of the Goths. They left them, however,
their own laws, which remained till the

Lombards,

9* LETTERS FROM

Lombards, another unknown northern peo-
ple, drove out their predecefTors, to be them-*
felves expelled in the courfe of time by the
power of the Francs, or France, under Pe*
pin and Charlemagne. But tho' thefe mo-
narchs totally deftroyed the kingdom of
Lombardy, they could not penetrate into
thefe diftant parts of it, where various
princes of that nation fet up independant fo-
vereignties, tho' the remains of the Roman
empire at Conftantinople ftill retained fome
maritime towns on this fide of the Pharo of
Meffina. All the ifland of Sicily, on the
other, fell into the hands of the adventure
ous Saracens, who at this time were extend-
ing their empire with all the courage of
heroes, and enthufiafm of mad-men. In fuch
a confufed iituation did things remain, till
the Normans, with the fame bravery, by
which they conquered England, but with-
out any force, at fir ft inilnuated themfelves
as auxiliaries, and afterwards fubju gated the
whole of thefe realms to their dominion,

which

ITALY, GERMANY, &e. $$

which Roger the firft tranfmitted to his
posterity with the title of a kingdom.
The Norman male line failing, the houfe of
Swabia, in Germany, after fome contefts,
fucceeded to their rights, by Henry of Swa-
bia's having married Conftance, daughter to
Roger. The perpetual difputes and wars
between thefe princes, (who were often elect-
ed emperors), and the popes, gave much
trouble to thefe ftates, whofe proximity fub-
jecled them to frequent attacks from the
Roman fee. At length pope Clement IV.
judging he mould never be at eafe with a
hoftile family fo near him, gave by a feudal
claim the crown of the two Sicilies to the
count of Anjou, under condition that he
mould conquer them, which that ambitious
prince of France performed, after having
defeated and {lain Manfred, the baftard fon
of the emperor Frederic II. who had feized
the throne, under pretence of defending it
for his infant nephew in Swabia. That ne-
phew; Conradine, made another attempt

fome

94 LETTERS FROM

fome time after, but was taken prifoner, and
infamoufly murdered upon a public fcaffold*
The houfe of Anjou ieemed now to have
no enemy, but their tyrannical government
fet the inhabitants, particularly thofe of
Sicily, fo much againft them, that they maf-
facred all the French in the ifland upon the
famous Sicilian vefpers, and threw themfelves
under the protection of Peter king of Arragon,
who having married the daughter of Man-
fred, fet up a pretenfion to the crown of
both kingdoms, but only obtained that of
Sicily. Thus did the two Sicilies remain
divided, for above a century and a half,
when, in 1442 Alphonfo, then king of
Arragon, conquered the whole, but left
Naples to his baftard fon Ferdinand, which
again feparated the two kingdoms. Ferdi-
nand, notwithstanding the illegitimacy of
his birth, tranfmitted the crown of Naples
to his fon Alphonfo, till Charles the eighth
of France, heir to the rights of the houfe
of Anjou, drove out Ferdinand the fecond,

Alphonfo's

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. t>£

Alphonfo's fon, who, recurring to Ferdinand
and Ifabella of Spain, recovered his king-
dom by their affiftance, but gave them an
opening to a ftate, which they pretended
to be their own, as heirs to Alphonfo, who
they faid, could not give away a kingdom
conquered by the blood and treaiures of
Arragon, to a natural child. At length
this politic prince entered into an agreement
with Lewis the twelfth, who had fucceeded
to the throne of France, to drive out Frede-
ric, who had mounted the throne of Naples,
Upon the death of Ferdinand, and divide his do-
minions between them. It was put in execu-
tion, and that unhappy prince, with all his
family, was forced to feek fhelter in France,
being too much irritated againft Ferdinand
the catholic, who had got poffeffion of his
towns, under the malk of friendfhip and
amftance, to receive any favor from him.
This partition, as might be eafily forefeen,
did not hold long, but the two monarch s
quarrelling, a war fucceeded, in which Fer-
dinand

96 LETTERS FROM

dinand conquered the whole, and drove the
French out of the kingdom, ihortly after to
be expelled out of the dutchy of Milan by
the victorious arms of his grandfon Charles
the fifth. Tho' France has fince made at-
tempts, yet they have not fucceeded,- fo that
I can not but agree with Ariofto that,

* bifogna cle non lice

Ai Giglj in quel terren prendere radice.

When the houfe of Auftria ceafed to reigii
in Spain, thefe dominions, with the Mila-
nefe, were ceded to it by the peace of
Utrecht, but conquered afterwards by the
Bourbon arms, and you fee the queen of
Hungary has in vain attempted to recover
them, fo I imagine they will long remain an
appendage to the Spanifh branch of the houfe
of Bourbon.

* Wifh you the real truth, to know,
Lilies in Italy won't grow.

LET-

Italy, Germany, &c. 97

LETTER VIII.

Rome, three o'clock afternoon,
Sunday, March 29, 1761.

1 LEFT Capua 011 friday, after receiv-
ing many civilities from my Irim acquain-
tances, and particularly from the governor,
who got me a very neat lodging. I think
they feem to live comfortably enough, but
they are difcontented at not riling, and
would enter into our fervice, if religion per-
mitted, Their regiment is called the King's
and was given by Philip the fifth to his fon,
now king of Spain, after the attempt upon
Veletri, by the Germans. Their marriage
regulations might not be of differvice in our
army. A lady rnufl bring at leaft five hun-
dred ducats (about a hundred and fifty
pounds,) in portion ; a perfoii of inferior
quality a thoufand ; but they may marry
Vol. III. G a bro-

9$ LETTERS FROM

ther officer's daughter, without any thing at
all. Their hofpitality kept me up much
later than I intended, the evening before I
fet out, and in pafiing the gates next morn-
ing, I was furprifed to be ftopt by the fen-
try, who was an Engliihman, and made me
pay the tribute of fome drink-money, for
being his countryman. Thefe are moftly
deferters, as the officers find it dangerous
and expenfive, to go recruiting into Ireland.
Thefe runaways are a vile race of people
in general* and I have feen them begging
charity upon their knees in Spain and Italy,
under pretence of their having fled from the
moft horrid tortures, upon account of their
being Roman catholics. A woman came up
to my coach at Pifa, and not knowing me'
to be an Engliihman, told me a difmal ftory
of the barbarities fhe had undergone, upon
account of her religion, and, that fhe had
choien to live upon charity in a foreign land,
rather than fufFer the cruelties which were
exercifed upon her in her own. Such are
i the

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 9$

the hj'pocritical calumnies of our common
people abroad, tho' I did find two men at
Seville, who were better than the reft.
When they came into my room, I was
going to give them fomething, but they
defired only to make me a pair of fhoes,
a requeft I could not deny. As there is
the fame glorious privilege at Seville, as
in London, that none but freemen can
work in the city, they were obliged to
fit under a tree, without the gates, where,
having but one lafr, all the fhoes they made
For the Irifh, were nearly of the fame fize,
■which they excufed upon account of neat*
tiefs, if too {trait, and of eafe in hot
countries, when they proved too big. Ex-
cepting thefe, I never faw an induftrious
renegado Briton, and will therefore leave
fuch worthlefs people, and continue my
journey.

G 2 After

ioo LETTERS FROM

After paffing the meadows, corroded by
the iilent ftream of the Garigliano, or as
Horace much better exprefles it,

rura, quae Liris quieta
Mordet aqua, taciturnus amnis,

we came to the mole of Gaeta, where
there is a beautiful view of the fea. A
light refection gave us ftrength to con-
tinue our journey without {topping, but
to change horfes, through a wild country, to
Terracina, the nrft. town in the pope's domi-
nions. It was the Anxur of the ancients,
blit I did not fee the white rocks cele-
brated by Horace, in his journey,

Et pofltum faxis late condentlbus Anxur.

On the contrary, Terracina is fituated
rather in a hole, or at leaft. the inn where
the poft-houfe is, but there are fomething
of clifts hanging over it, and perhaps the

ancient

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 101

ancient town might be at the top of them,
as there are buildings there at prefent.
Yefterday I intended to have got hither,
but rinding the night fhut in, I flopped at
Marino, not an ugly village, about twelve
miles from this capital. It is fituated upon
the rifing grounds which break the Campa-
nia of Rome, and are interfperfed with a
number of villas, and villages, among which
was the ancient Tufculum, now Frafcati.
The prefent Romans do not however, feem
to love the country fo much as their ancef-
tors did, and are rarely, for any length of
time, out of their city, except during the
month of October. This morning I eafily
arrived hither, through the vaft plain which
Jay between*

G3 LET-

io2 LETTERS FROM

LETTER IX.

Rome, Tuefday, April 7, 6 o'clock
in the afternoon, 1761.

X N reading Voltaire's Hcnriade I have met
with a dejfcription of Rome, which anfwers
pretty much to the frate I find affairs at
prefent in this capital. I will give it you.
The author introduces it upon the arrival of
difcord thither, coming in fearch of policy,
whole refidence he places in this city, when
both united affirl: the league againfr. Henry
the third, then king of France, and Henry
of Bourbon, afterwards Henry the fourth-
then king of Navarre.

Rome ennn fe decouvre a fes regards cruels,
Rome, jadis fon temple et 1'effroi des mortels,
Rome, done le deftin dans la paix, dans la guerre,
Eft d'etre en tons les terns Maitrefle de la Terre.
Par le fort des combats on la vit autrefois

Stu*

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 103

Sur leaurs Trones fanglans enchainer tous Ies Rois.
L'Univers flechiflait fous fon Aigle terrible.
Elle exeroeen nos jours un pouvoirplus paifible.
Elle a fu fous fon joug aflervir fes vainqueurs,
Gouverner les efprits, et commander auz coeurs.
Ses avis font fes loix, fes decrets font fes armes.

Pres de ce Capitole ou regnaient tant d'allarmes,
Sur lefs pompeux debris de Bellone et de Mars,
Un Pontife eft affis au Trone des Cefars.
Des Pretres fortunes foulent d'un pied tranquille
Les tombeaux des Catons et la e£ndre d'Emile.
Le Trone eft fur l'Autel, et 1'abfolu pouvoir
Met dans les memes mains le fceptre et l'encenfoir.

La Dieu meme a fonde fon Eglife maiflantc,
Tantot perfecutee, et tantot triomphante*
La» fon premier Apotre avec la verite
Conduifit la candeur et la fimplicite.
Ses Succeffeurs heureux quelque terns l'imiterent, }

D'autant plus refpectes que plus ils s' abaiflerent,
Leur front d'un vain eclat n' etait point revetu,
La pauvrete foutint leur auftere vertu ;
Et jaloux de,s feuls biens qu'un vrai Chretien defire,
Du fond de leur chaumiere ils volaient au martyre.
Le terns qui corrompt tout changea.bientot leurs meurs ;
Le Ciel pour nous punir leur donna des grandeurs.
Rome, depuis ce terns puiffante et profanee,

G 4 Aux

104 LETTERS FROM

Aux conceils ties mechans fe vit abandonnce.
La trahifon, le meurtre, et l'empoifonement
De fon pouvoir nouveau flit 1'afFreux fondement.
Les Succeffeurs du Chriit au fond du fanctuaire
Placerent fans rougir l'incefte et l'adultere,
Et Rome qu' opprimait leur empire odieux,
Sous ces Tyrans facres regretta fes faux Dieux.
On ecouta depuis de plus fages maximes,
On fcut ou s'epargner, ou mieux voiler les crime j.
De l'Eglife et du Peuple on regla mieux les droits.
Rome devint l'arbitre et non l'efrroi des Rois.
Sous l'orgueil impofant du triple diademe
La modeile vertu reparut elle-meme.
Mais l'art de menager le refte des humains,
Ell furtout aujourdhui la vertu des Remains.

You may think I have written the fore^
going paiTage' incorreclly, but it is the new
way of fpelling French, Voltaire pretends to
introduce ; and, as I do not think myfelf
a perfon of authority enough to be able to
correct him, I have tranferibed the paflage
as I found it. To underhand the lines that
go on from

La fon premier Apotre avec la verite,

you

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. io£

you mufl know that, according to the Ro-
man catholic doctrine, St. Peter came to,
Rome, and was the firfr. pope there ; and
that from his to our days there has been a
continual uninterrupted fucceffion of them.
Indeed, at firft they confefs they had only
the title of bifhops of Rome, but affirm their
authority was the fame as it is at prefent, and
the only difference was in the name. I can
not now avoid adding, as I imagine you may
have never feen it, what Voltaire fays in the
fame poem concerning the ftate of England
during the reign of queen Elizabeth. Henry
the third of France fends Henry of Bourbon
to her court to defire affiftance againii the
League. Upon his arrival in England there
are the following verfes.

En voyant l'Angleterre, en fecret il admire

Le changement heureux de ce puiffant empire,

Ou l'eternel abus de tant de fages loix

Fit longtems le malheur et du Peuple et des Rois.

Sur ce fanglant Theatre ou cent Heros perirent,

Sur ce Trone gliflant, done cent Rois defcendirent,

Unp

io6 LETTERS FROM

Une femme a fes pieds enchainant les deftins,

De l'eclat de fon regne etonnait les humains.

C'etait Elizabeth, elle dont la prudence

Be l'Europe a fon choix fit pancher la balance,

Et fit aimer fon joug a l'Anglois indompte,

Qui ne peut ni fervir, ni vivre en liberte.

Ses Peuples fous fon regne ont oublie leurs pertcs ;

De leurs troupeaux feconds leurs plaines font couvertes,

Les guerets de leur bleds, les mers de leurs vafleaux,

lis font craints fur la terre, ils font Rois fur les eaux,

Leur flotte imperieufe afferviffant Neptune,

Des bouts de l'Univers apelle la fortune.

Londres jadis barbare eft le centre des Arts,

Le magazin du monde, et le Temple de Mars,

Aux muri de "Weftminfter on voit paroitre enfemblc

Trois pouyoirs etonnes du noeud qui les rafTemble.

Les deputes du Peuple, et les Grands a and le Roi,

Divifes d'interet, reunis par la Loi ;

Tons trois membres facres de ce corps invincible,

Dangereux a lui merae, a fes voifins terrible.

Heureux, lorfque le Peuple, inftruit dans fon devoir

Refpecte autant qu? il doit, le fouverain pouvoir.

Plus heureux, lorfqu' un Roi, doux, jufte, et politique

Refpetfte autant qu' il doit, la liberte publique.

Ah ! s'cria Bourbon, grand pourront les Francais

Reunir comme vous la gloire avec la paix.

Quel example pour vous, Monarques de la Terre.

Une femme a ferme les portes de la guerre,

Et renvoyant chez vous la difcorde et l^horreur,

Du'a

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 107

D'un Peuple, qui l'adore, elle a fait le bonheur.
Cependant il arrive a cette ville immenfe,
Ou la liberte feule entretient Pabondance.
Du Vainqueur des Anglais il apercoit la Tour,
Plus loin d' Elizabeth eft Paugufte fejour.
Suivi de Monary feul il va trouver la Reine, &c.

By the conqueror of the Englifh, he
fneans king William the firft.

LET-

toft LETTERS FROM

LETTER X.

Rome, half after n, morning,
Sunday, April 12, 1761.

X H A V E been to take half an hours walk
in the garden belonging to Villa Medici.
The late rains have made the country very
pleafanr. The morning is fine. The birds
were hailing the advancing fpring. Under-
neath my view, lay all Rome, with St*
Peter's, towering above the reft of the builds
ings, Beyond it was a ridge of hills, inter-
fperfed with trees and houfes, which gave
a pleafing termination to the proipe£t. In-
deed fome part of them was bare, and to
fuch a degree, that, as the late fallen rain
had not yet had its effect, they looked rather
brown, than green. But the trees about
Villa Madama, made up for the want of
them in other places. After having taken

feveral

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 109

feveral turns among fhady alleys, (the made
produced by no lefs a plant, than bays or
laurel,) I returned home. The Turks, they
fay, are arming to attack Malta, upon
account of their not reftoring the fhip
which the flaves brought into their port.
I fhould think, they would rather turn their
arms againfr. Egypt, which has revolted.
Be it as it may, they will not be ready foon,
and it is reported, that when the Grand
Signior came to examine his fleet, he found
many of the mips old and unfit for fervice,
and that his workmen are only now cutting
down the timber, to build others to replace
them. We have had a paper handed here
about Rome, which they fay came by the
way of France. It is the edict of the Grand
Signior, for the aflemblage of his fleet to
attack Malta. You will fee it is a burlefque
to laugh at the Maltefe, and the invention
of fome foolifh Italian. Such as it is, I
will tranflate it to you.

«

The

iio LETTERS FROM

" The manifefloj publifhed by the grand
" Signior, throughout all his empire, and
" particularly in the city of Tunis, to the
" found of trumpets, tymbals, and plates
" of filver, from whence a copy has been
" fent by father Jeronymo da Como Capu-
" chin Miffionary.

" Muflapha, emperor, and mofl powerful
91 Ottoman fultan, fon and nephew of God^
" king of the Turks, of Greece, Perfia;
%'■ Phrygia, Bithynia, Cappadocia, Pamphy-
" lia, of the greater and leffer Egypt, of
" Armenia and Arabia, lord of the greatefl
" part of Europe, Aria* and Africa, fancti-
" fled head of the clergy of Mahomet;
" guardian of the fepulchre of the Meffiah,
" the greatefl recompence of the faithful^
" king of kings, fovereign prince above
" all princes in the world, terror and fcourge
" of all Chriflians, ineflimable hope of the
" Ottomans, the precious flone, the facred
" jewel, and mofl tremendous king.

" The

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. in

" The eternal and immortal memory of
*' the great fultan Amurath, Grand Signior
" of the Turks, our predeceflbr and beloved
" brother, had always in his thoughts to
V deprive the Chriflians of the little rock
"• belonging to the knights of Malta, and to
•' deftroy their galleys, upon account of the
" common hurt they do in our fea£, but
" while the before mentioned Grand Signior
'* Amurath, was putting his intended ex-
*' ploits into execution, the angel of death
" cut them fhort, fo that he could only
" leave to us by teftament, the obligation
" of executing what he dehred. Till now in*
" deed, we have not {hewn ourfelves folicitous
" to effectuate his intentions, but {purred
" at prefent by the difdain conceived againft
" the knights, and their favourers, upon
" account of the bad treatment ufed towards
€t our fhips, to our no fmall difpleafure,
*' upon this account, coming to a proper
€t refolution, we order,

*<

That

ill LETTERS FROM

" That in virtue of this edict, all our
fubjects do appear in Conftantinople with
their galleys, within all the moon of
March, and that the galleys of our moll:
copious arfenal, and the vefTels found in
our extenfive dominions, do arm and
come, within the prefcribed term, to
our before mentioned capital, in order
to be ready, under pain of our indigna-
tion, to imbark our army, which is to
become the terror of the univerfe, and
the utter defolation of the Chriftians, for
the fun, the moon, and the ftars, in
wonder at the multitude of our galleys
and vefTels, fhall be obfcured, by the fre-
quent firing of our bombs, while the fifli,
half dead with affright, fhall hide them-
felves in themoft retired profundities of the
oCean ; the animals of the earth flink
into their woods and forefts, and the trees,
rooted up by the thunder of our artillery,
deplore their faded honors. From this,
our inevitable power, Chriftianity fhall

" prove

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 113

H prove the effects of the anger conceived
" by us, for the lofs of our galeon."

Some Italian has written under the Italian
copy of this Turkifh declaration, the two
following lines, which if they fhew nothing
elfe, will at leaft, give a fpecimen of the
venom which the Italians bear in their
breafts againft, the Turks.

Trace infame, tanto crudel orgoglio
L'abbaffera quel difprezzato fcoglio,

which is fomethjng like what follows in
Englifh.

" Infamous Thracian, that fo much de-
4< fpifed rock of Malta, fhall humble thy
<c cruel haughtinefs."

Now you have read this declaration, I
dare fay there is no reafon for me to tell
you, that it mull be fpurious. The ridicu-

Vol. III. H loufnefs

ii4 LETTERS FROM

loufnefs of the ftyle alone, is enough to con*
fute it. True it is, that the Turks have a
high-flown diction, but this is many notes
above any thing that has ever yet been heard.
And yet, notwithstanding all its bombaft,
it is filly, ftupid, and flat. You may con-
fider.then, what I have faid hitherto con-
cerning the Turks, as a fable. That the
Maltefe however, are making preparations
for defence, and have recalled their knights,
is certain. That is, not all of them, but
thofe of younger date, who have {till cara-
vans to perform, which confift. generally,
in cruizing on board the Maltefe mips
againfl the Turks, but now, I fuppofe, all
the caravanifters will remain Rationed in the
ifland. Indeed I believe they never meet
the enemy, at leaf! we never hear of any
knights of Malta, either killed or taken.

To have a true idea of this order, you
muft confider them, as fo many military
friers. Their origin, was merely that of

keepin g

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 115

keeping an hofpital at Jerufalem, for the pil-
grims who vifited the holy fepulchre in the
time of the crufades. As thefe were often
oppreffed and robhed by the Turks, in coming
to Jerufalem, they took upon them likewife
to defend them. After the lofs of the holy
land, they conquered Rhodes, and, upon
being driven from thence by the victorious
arms of Soliman the fecond, finally fettled
at Malta, which was ceded to them by the
emperor Charles the fifth. Thofe who have
profefTed, that is, who have taken all the
oaths, and enjoy commcndas, or benefices,
are pretty much under the fame reft.ric~r.ion
as friers, and they make the monaftic vows
of poverty, chafHty, and obedience. But
the troop of them you fee about Italy, are
thofe who have only performed their cara-
vans, and got the crofs. Now it is thefe
that are recalled, for I believe moft of the
others are always inhabitants of Malta.
To prove ycvi the truth of this call from
Malta, I will tranllate you that of Don Sifto
H 3 Cefarini,

li$ LETTERS FROM

Cefarina, an acquaintance of mine, from
which you may have an idea of all the reft, as
they are pretty much alike. The fervants
they bring, are to be above eighteen yeara
old, that they may be able to bear arms»
It is as follows.

Signqr Cavalier Don Sifto Cefarini,

From the Grand Priorate,
April i, 1761. .
f In order that your mofl illuftriousjignor-
l( JJo'ip may fet out immediately for Malta,
" to perform your caravans, and exercife
" the employs that (hall there be committed
" to you, the mofl eminent grand matter^
" together with his venerable council, have
" ordered cardinal Colonna, grand prior, to
" intimate to you, in virtue of holy obedi-
" ence, as he does by this prefent letter, to
" fet out immediately, in order to go to the
" convent at Malta, together with as many
y fervants as you pleafe, provided they are

" above

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 117

€< above eighteen years old, and are provided
u with proper arms.

" Cardinal Colorina, having thus per*
kl formed the injunctions laid upon him,
u and nothing doubting but you will not
" neglect to fulfil thofe at prefent laid Upon
" you, andincreafethe merit of them towards
u his eminence, by your fpeedy obedience,
u the cardinal nothing doubting this, pro-
** feffes himfelf, &e« ■

H 3 J.ET-

US LETTERS FROM

LETTER XI.

Thurfday, April 16, 1761. Rome,
half after 1 in the afternoon.

JLrf AST night, at a lady's houfe, the com-
pany entered into a long conversation with
regard to the affairs of Portugal. There
was a gentleman made me laugh. We
were talking about the Jefuits, and whether
they were guilty or not of the attempt to
aflaffinate his faithful majefty. We agreed,
that tho' fome might have been engaged in the
plot, the whole body could not. ' ' I am fure,
" at leah1," fays the gentleman, " they could
" never have had any thing to do in the
" way-laying of the king, the night of the
" third of September, for if they had, they
" would have done it better."

I have

Italy, Germany, &c n*

Friday, April 17, 12 at noon;

I have been this morning trampling about
Rome. It was pretty warm 5 for as the
bad weather is now over, the fun begins to
exert his force. I went as far as the tri-*
umphal arch of Conftantine the great, which
ftands near the Flavian amphitheatre. It
was erected for his victory over Maxentius,
who had feized the Weflern Empire, but was
defeated at the Pons Milvius, and, with many
of his troops, faidto have been drowned in the
Tyber, as the bridge broke in their flight.
It was before this engagement that Conftan*
tine is reported to have feen the miraculous
vifion of the crofs, with the words, " By
" this fign malt thou conquer," written
over it. This is a prodigy ftrongly attefted
by Eufebius and other eccleiiafiical writers,
but the view of the arch I have been con-
templating this morning daggers my belief.
It would be reafonable to expect fome mark
upon it acknowledging the immediate in-
H 4 terpo-

120 LETTERS FROM

terpofition of Heaven in Conftantine's favor*
But I found none, except you think it ex-
preffed in the infcription, which fays, " that
" Conftantine conquered the tyrant by the
" influence of the Deity," (inftinclu Divi-
nitatis,) a ftyle never before ufed by the
Romans ; but then the whole is fpoiled by
what is added afterwards, " that he did it
*' likewife, by the greatnefs of his own
.,' mind," (magnitudine mentis,) which does
not feem a very proper expreflion for a
newly converted Chriftian. Befides, there
appear to be Pagan reprefentations upon
more than one of the bafs reliefs; however,
in anfwer to this, a gentleman informs me,
fiom what authority I know not, that this
arch was made up and adorned from the ruins
of various other places. Near this arch is one
of a lefs lize, in honor of Vefpaflan's conquefl
over the Jews, by his fon Titus. It is
famous for having fome of the facred utenfils
of the Jews, as the golden candleftick, &c.
carved upon the fides of it, but they arealmofi:

effaced.

ITALY, GERMANY, &c 121

effaced. The Flavian amphitheatre, which
is adjoining to both the former antiquities,
is one of the nobleU: remains of ancient
ftru&ure. It is now called the Coloffeo,
and its venerable ftones

«—• Ipirant adhuc imperiofa minas.

It was erected by Flavius Vefpafian, and was
heretofore the refort of multitudes to fee the
cruel diverfion of gladiators righting with each
other, or men contending with wild beafls,
of which immenfe quantities wrere brought
from Africa for the diverfion of the capital.
Many martyrs are likewife fuppofed to have
perifhed here, when pagan Rome firft. drew
the fword againft infant Chriftianity. But
whatever cruelties may have been exercifed
in its arena, the furrounding building is
great and noble, and ftrikes a modern with
thoughts of the inferiority of our pre-
jfent places of entertainment. You have
often feen it in paintings, tho* nothing but

itfelf

ii2 LETTERS FROM

itfelf can give an idea of its vaflnefs. No£
above a third of its circumference is per-
fect ; however, from thence an idea is eafi-
]y formed of what the whole was, when
it was compleat. The popes have pulled
down a great part to raife the modern edi-
fices of Rome ; and the Barberini family
being the principle deftroyers, caufed this
faying againfl them,

Qiiod non fecerunt Barbari, fecerunt Barberini.

L E T-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 123

LETTER XII.

Rome, Sunday, April 19, 1761,
half after 1 1 in the morning*

1 WILL now tranfiate you the. moix
effential part of the account publifhed by
the court of Rome concerning the expullion
of cardinal Acciaiuoli, the pope's nuncio,
from Portugal, and the difmiffion of the
commendator d'Almada, the Portuguefe en-
voy, from this city. Tho' you may have feen
the Portuguefe account, I dare fay that of
the holy fee has not come to your hands.

" The fixth of the month of June 1760,
" the marriage between the molt ferene in-
" fant Don Pedro, and the mofl ferene
" Donna Maria Francifca, princefs of the
" Brazils, was celebrated unexpectedly in
u the city of Liibon. Notice was given
1 " of

I24 LETTERS FROM

" of this joyful events not only to all the'
*' ambaffadors of foreign courts, but even
" to all minifters of inferior ranlq by a
u meffage from Don Lewis da Cunha, fecre-
" tary of ftate for foreign affairs. This
M attention, however, was not ufed towards
u cardinal Acciaiuoli, who flill relided ill
" that court with the character of apofto-
u lical nuncio. His eminence" (a title given
to all cardinals,) u clearly faw that this
" omiffion was on purpofe to offend, not
" only his private perfon, but his public
" character. He had not, indeed, received for
" along time that refpect, which was due
96 to him from the court, confidering him
" either as a nuncio or as a cardinal. But
" while he could think, or force his imagi-
" nation to believe, that thefe flights regard-
" ed his private perfon only, he furFered and
** diflembled every thing with a mod unpa-
" ralelled patience. As foon, however, as he
** found the dignity of his prince, the fupreme
" head of the church, offended in the pre-

" fent

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 125

M fent conjuncture, by an affront fo public
f* to the whole city, he judged there was
** no longer room for diffimulation. After
" having reflected upon what would be the
f< readier!: means of preventing the impend-
" ing diforders, he went to Don Lewis da
*' Cunha, the fecretary, and complained of
*' the meflage not having been fent to him,
*' which all the other minifters had received.
" Don Lewis anfwered him byjaying, that
te the meffage he had fent to the other
*• minifters was not to inform them of the
" royal marriage, but to inftruct thera of
" the rank and order they ought to obferve
" in the prefent conjuncture, in their ap-
" pearance at court, which his eminence
" not being able to do," (He was forbid the
court upon account of the previous difputes
about the Jefuits.) " the meffage became
iC fuperfluous. His eminence anfwered, that
M the menage fent to the other foreign
" minifters contained two parts ; flrft, an
" intimation of the marriage, and then the

" method

J26 LETTERS FROM

" method they ought to obferve in receiving
" their refpective audiences ; and tho' the
" latter did not concern the nuncio, as he
" could not appear at court, a participa-
" tion of the former ought to have been
" granted him as well as other foreign
" minifters. The note fent to all the other
<f foreign minifters was as follows.

(t From the palace, June 6, 1760*

"/The afTurancehis majefty has of the part

", his majefty takes in every thing that

" concerns the welfare of his royal houfe,
" obliges him to embrace the opportunity of
" the very hour of the celebration of matri-
•* mony between the moft ferene princefs of
P the Brazils and the moll: ferene infant Don
" Pedro, to declare to the aforefaid monarch
" this- joyful notice, which by order of his
" majefty I communicate to your excellency,
<( acquainting you of my fending away an
" exprefs with thefe news to your court,' in

<f cafe

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 127

cafe your excellency has any occafion of
tranfmittlng difpatches by it. And as upon
this occafion their majefties and highnefles
intend to give audience to all ambaffadors
and public minifters, they will appear to
receive it according to the antiquity of the
prefentation of their credentials. In any
thing that I can do that may be agreeable
to your excellency, you may entirely com-!
mand me. Heaven guard your excellency
many years,

" I remain

" Your excellency's
" moft obfequious and
46 obliged fervant,

*' Don Lewis da Cunha,

M Cardinal Acciaiuoli, after thefe repre^
" fentations made to Don Lewis da Cunha,
" continued to entreat him in more exprefs
" terms not to oblige him to abflain from
" thofe public demon ftrations of joy, which
" there was no perfon more defirous than

" him*

!*3 LETTERS FROM

" himfelf of fhewing for an event fo greatly
" to the fatisfac"tion of the royal family of
** Portugal, and of the whole nation. Don
•* Lewis promifed to reprefent to his moil
*' faithful majefty the inftances that his
** eminence had made him, and fend him
'* an anfwer to them. But this anfwer did
" not come all that day, nor the day after,
*' So that his eminence, the three appointed
*? nights of the feventh, eighth and ninth
" of June, abftained from illuminating his
f' palace in the manner that the other am-
*6 bafladors did theirs. In order, however,
" to make up for the inattention he had
" been obliged to fhew, he went to the
" Count of St. Lorenzo, firft. gentleman of
" the bedchamber to the mofr. ferene infant
*' Don Pedro, and begged him to make
** his refpectful excufes to the royal couple,
" and tell them the real caufe of the neglect
" he had, without his fault, been obliged
" to fhew. No perfon belonging to the
u court or miniflry complained to the car-

M dinal „

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 1*9

" dinal of his behaviour. Neither did the
" public, who knew the caufe of it, give
** any fign of their difapprobation, either
" during the three days of common feftivity,
" or afterwards. In this interval his emi-
" nence continued living in tranquillity,
u and as he was not confcious of having
t( been wanting in his duty, he refigned
" himfelf to the ftate of the times. The
" morning of the fifteenth, which fell on
" a funday, about the hour of nine of the
u foreign clock or twelve of the Italian, as his
" eminence was getting himfelf ready to
" celebrate the holy mafs, a commiflary
" of the ftate office, by name John Galvas,
'* together with the brigadier Don Lewis
w deMendonza, came in a hurry to his houfe,
" and defired to fpeak to him. In the mean
** time his palace was inverted by a number
" of foldiers, who had alfo entered and
" difperfed themfelves about the gardens.
" The two before mentioned perfons being
Vol, III, I *' admitted,

i LE ITERS F ROM

-" admitted, the former of them gave his
" eminence the the following letter.

■ Cs His majefty making ufe of that juft royal
ic and fupreme power given him by all laws,
Ci in order to maintain the fovereign autho-
" rity unviolated, and preferve his vaffal's
* from fcandals prejudicial to the public
** tranquillity of his kingdom, orders me tp

• intimate to your eminence, that, upon
e< the immediate receipt of this letter, your
" eminence mult, depart from this city, and,
n c rolling the Tagus, go, forthwith, by the
" ftreighteir. road out of thefe kingdoms,
46 within the precife term of four days.

•* One of the royal equipages is ready, on
" the oppofite more of the Tagus to your
" eminency's houfe of habitation, for the

decent conveyance of your eminence.

a

<c And in order that your eminence may
H puriue your journey, without danger of

receiving

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. iji

ie receiving any infults, contrary to the pro-

*' tection which the immunity of your

*-' character mail always find in the domi-

" nions of his majefty, he has commanded,

iC that you mall be accompanied to the fron-

M tiers of this kingdom, by a fufficient

" military guard. I beg your eminence

" would command me, in any thing I can

" do for your fervice. Heaven preferve your

*' eminence for many years. I remain

:- ■_. Your moil: obfecmious

From the Palace, "]

T z > humble fervant,

14 June, 1760, J

Don Lewis da Cunha.

*' Cardinal Acciaiuoli, after ha vine: read

*' the foregoing letter, deiired time to write

<; a note to the fecretary of ftate, but it was

*' not granted him. He then defired the

" fhort ipace of time, to be able to hear

" mafs, but that was alfo refufed him, anc^

li he was obliged to drefs himfelf immedi-

*s ately. He then called thofe few fervants

** that were mod necelTary to him, and

I ? " having

ija LETTERS FROM

*' having duly protefted again ft the violence
" ufed to his facred perfonal character, as
M well as to that of a public minifter,
4< always refpe&ed in the perfon of ambafla-
u dors of princes; he followed the officers,
" as he was obliged to do, and entered with
g€ them into the royal barks, which carried
*' his eminence acrofs the Tagus. On the
** other fide, he found fome bad equipages
" waiting for him, which he got into, and
*' began his journey, accompanied by thirty
" dragoons, which, indeed, had been given
" him under colour of preferving him
" from infults, but were, in reality, to guard
*- him, as if he had been a prifoner. They
" paffed the fortrefles of Eftremos and Elvas,
*' without his eminence receiving any of the
*' ufual honors. After five days journey,
" he came to the frontiers of Spain, where
" his guard abandoned him. Upon his arri-
<f val at Badajoz," (the firft town in Spain,)
4t he received fo many marks of attention
" and politenefs from the officer, who com-

(f mande4

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 133

u manded that garrifon, that they made up,
" 111 fo'me meafure, for the difgufts and
w difagreaable treatment he had hitherto
" furTered.

u It is not at prefent our bufinefs to exa*
M mine the caufe and manner of the expulflon
•* of the pope's nuncio from the court of a
" catholic prince. That may be the work of
<c fome other time, and fome other pen.
But this preliminary hiftory was neceffary
to what we are going to fay. While thefe
things happened in Portugal, in the fpace
" of a few days four couriers came to the
" Portuguefe minifter plenipotentiary at
11 Rome, the Commendator d'Almada." (I
need not tell you that commendator is a title
belonging to perfons who have commendas,
or benefices, from any order of knighthood.)
" Two of the couriers arrived on the 21ft;
" one on the 28th, and the fourth on the
*' 30th of the month of June. All Rome
" was in great anxiety, to know what news

I 3 " thefe

a

a

*34 LETTERS FROM

<e thefe repeated meffengers brought. It
** was foon, however, known in general,
" (tho* the Commendator made a great fecret
" of it) that they brought difagreeable news.
c< However, at laft, in the afternoon of the
" joth, which fell on a monday, the Com-
** mendator d'Almad a begged to be admitted
*• to an audience of his holinefs. His holi-
** nefs, being bufied with other occupations,
** anfwered that he could not grant his
* requefl, till the friday following. The

c

' Commendator d'Almada wrote another
" note the fame evening, acquainting his
** holinefs of the neceffity he was under of
*' throwing himfelf at his feet, before thurf-
g* day, the day the Spanifh and Portuguefe
u couriers fet off with the letters for thofe
" kingdoms; which was granted him.

" Thus was his holinefs prevailed upon by
" Commendator d'Almada's intreaties to for-
•* ward the audience he was to give him only
" on the friday, to the wednefday morn in g.

" 2d

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. t3$

" 2cl July preceding, notwithstanding ir

f
" was the day of the ordinary audience o

'* the minifters of his (late, and not with -

if ftanding cardinal Acciaiuoli had never been

" able to obtain one from his Portuguefe

" majefty, tho' he had lolicited it for many

M months.

,( In the mean time, on tuefday the Por-
s< tuguefe and Spanim letters arrived, and
" thofe from Lifbon, in date the 9th of
** June, brought an account of what had
" palled with regard to the cardinal nuncio
" till that day; as, his not having been in-
" formed, from the court, of the marriage,
*' a civility which all the other ambafiadors
" had received, the reafons of the refolutions
" he made, of not conforming to the public
" demon ftrations of joy, together with other
" facts, which aggravated the former inat-
" tentions he had received, and plainly (hewed
** the difpolition of the court of Portugal,

I 4 " to

itf LETTERS FROM

•• to (till further difpleafe and injure the pon-
" tifical minifter.

99 Upon account of thefe motives of dif-
u content, his holinefs thought proper to
" fufpend the giving an audience to the
*' Commendator d'Almada, till he mould be
" farther informed of the prefent itate of
99 affairs in Portugal. Accordingly, mon-
*' fignior chamberlain fent him the following
" note.

" From the ante-chamber of our holy
** father, 2d July 1760,

99 Notwithftanding monfignior cham-
99 berlain gave part yefterday morning
99 to the Commendator d'Almada of his
" holinefs's condefcending to anticipate
99 his audience, he is obliged to fignify to
*' him, at prefent, by exprefs order from his
19 holinefs, that he can not grant him the

99 promifed

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 13

u promifed audience this morning, upon
" account of letters arrived yefterday from
u LilDon, by the ordinary poft, the contents
" of which (hall be communicated to his
" excellency, by fome other more opportune
" method. Monfignior chamberlain deli res
" his excellency to honor him with his
** commands, which he mall obey with the
** utmoft attention, profeffing himfelf to
" be, &c.

" Upon receiving this nleflage from the
*' pope, the Commendator d'Almada not only
** paffed all bounds of moderation, but even
" of that decency which ought to be obferved
*' in their own territories to the moft inligni*
0 flcant fovereign upon the face of the earth.
l( He diftributed a great bundle of writings
" (that he had prepared) to all the foreign
" minifters, acquainting them, at the fame
*' time, with his imminent departure from
" the court of Rome, Thefe fcandalousand

" tirefome

ttf LETTERS FROM

•• tirefome papers were foon fpread through
" all the city.

" We do hot think it at prefent worth
" our while to anfvver all that is badly
"jumbled together in the writings diitri-
" buted by the Commendator d'Almada.
" If there be occarion, we will do it another
" time. It is enough to fay, that there ii
" nothing confiftent in them, but reiterated
** expreffions of the obfequioufnefs, and
" conftant devotion of his faithful majefly
" to the holy apoftolical fee. His holinefs
" is fully convinced of it, notwithstanding
" the conduct of his minifter is not at all
" conformable to fuch fentiments. There
*' are, befides, many good maxims inter-
" fperfed in theie writings, but they prove
" juft the contrary to what they were de-
" figned. They prove, to the moft evident
" demonftration, the great condefcenfion his
" holinefs has fhewn to his majelty's de-
" mands, as well as the great deiire he has

" always

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 139

** always had of conforming to his royal

fl pleafure. Indeed, the minifters of the holy

" fee have always had, and always will have,

" for his moft faithful majefty that refpect

'* and veneration, which are not only due to

** every crowned head, but more particu-

*£ larly to a king fo much efteemed by the

** holy apoftolical fee, as well upon his own

" account, as for the great deierts of his

*' auguft anceftors. In confequence of thefe

" fincere fentiments, his majefty' s mini-

" fters mall always be treated with refpect,

" as we know well that no injury can be

" offered to a minifter, in minifterial affairs,

*< without infulting the fovereign at the fame

'* time.

»t

LET-

t4o LETTERS FROM

LETTER XIII.

Rome, 1 1 o'clock morning,
Monday, April 27, 1761.

A O continue you the papal account of the
retreat of the Commendator d'Almada from
Rome*

V We leave it to the reflection of thofe
" minifters, to whom the Commendator
" d'Almada diftributed his papers, to judge
" whether he could fpeak in the manner he
•c did of the minifters of his holinefs, with-
" out, at the fame time, highly injuring the
** holy father. We mould be glad, that
g* they would decide alfo, whether a foreign
** minifter has the privilege of declaring,
" that he will not treat with the firft minif-
w ter of that prince to whom he is fent.
" Hiftory furnifhes us with many examples,

" and

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 141

" and that of Portugal with fome not very
M ancient, of a court, when not contented
" with the minifter fent by a foreign prince,
" having folicited, and obtained his being
u recalled. This is our cafe with regard
" to the Commendator d'Aimada. But we
" mall not fo eafily find an example of a
4( foreign minifter's refuting to treat with
" the principal minifter of that prince, to
" whom he is fent. Before we refume the
" thread of our interrupted narration, we
*' will juft hint, that we think it probable
" that Commendator d'Almadahimfelf would
-f' have dared to put the before mentioned
" papers into his holinefs's hands, if the
" defired audience had been granted him,
?' and fo infult, face to face, the pontifical
16 majefty. The tenor of the writings, a;
" well as the ftrict filence he obferved, not
<c only with regard to the court minifters,
* c but even towards thofe that were moft inti-
*c mate with him, fhew that thefe papers ,
f * were diflributed with an intention to affront
( a prince, who unites in his perfon, the

94 er ^lefnftiral

142 LETTERS FROM

" ecclefiaftical and civil fovereignty. Every
" perfon will be able to judge, that this be-
" haviour merited due refentment. How-
*' ever, his holinefs, tho* informed of the
•' fubitance of the writings distributed by
" the Commendator d'Almada, as well as of
*8 the indecent expulfion of his nuncio
<c from Lifbon, yet, making ufe of that
*G heroical moderation fo natural to him,
M even before he was raifed to the high
" pontificate, the holy father, I fay, upon
*' thurfday morning, after the congregation
" of the officers of the holv inciuiiitions
" giving the ufual audience to cardinal Neri
" Corfmi, protector of the crown of Portu-
" gal, entered into a difcourfe with him
" concerning the depending affairs of that
*f kingdom. His eminence faid, he had not
** yet feen the writings diitributed by the
" Commendator d'Almada. He then pro-
" ceeded to declare, the various pretentions
" made by that minifter, and in particular,
" that his holinefs mould appoint fome
*' other perfon, in the room of cardinal
% " Toxrig-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 143

' forriggiani, his principal and ordinary
*' miniiler, to treat with him concerning
" tiie preient ftate of affairs in Portugal.

" His holinefs, juftly offended at the fore-

'* going ftrange propofition of the Commen-

" dator d'Almada, not only rejected it abfo-

" lutely, but, as he was perfuaded there

" was no dilcuiTmg affairs any longer peace-

** ably with the aforefaid minifter, declared

" he would treat with no perfon concerning

" them, but his eminence cardinal Neri

" Corfmi. This prelate took the opportu-

" nity of the audience, to deliver to his

" holinefs a letter from his moft faithful

M majefly, containing a participation of the

" marriage of the moft ferene infants. The

" Commendator d'Almada had never made

" any mention of this letter in his repeated

*' intreaties, by word and writing, for an

" audience. His holinefs lent the cardinal

*' an anfwer to this letter the morning

*' afterwards, testifying by his expedition,

<* the

i44 LETTERS FROM

" the flncere pleafure he had in hearing of
" any thing that was agreeable to the royal
" family of Portugal. This audience was
" on the thurfday morning, the day before
" the following notification was hung up at
" the door of the hofpital of the Portuguefe
u national church of St. Anthony. The
" place where it was, hung up was, indeed,
«' furrounded with walls, but in all other
c< refpe&s was public, and frequented by all
" kinds of perfons.

•' Francis d'Almada & Mendonza, of the
" council of his moft faithful majefty, and
*' his minifter plenipotentiary to the holy
" apoftolical fee, &c.

" I here inform all the vaffals of our
M fovereign lord the king, that his majefty
" having with moft exemplary patience be-
*< field, for a long time, and by many deci-
V fwe fads, all thofe channels ftopt, by
" which he might obtain the ear of his

" holinefs,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 145

M holinefs, without feeing any hopes of his
?' being able to addrefs to him, his moft ob-
" fequious fupplications, and reflecting at
4t the fame time, upon the extraordinary,
" fcandalous, and unheard pf animofity of
*f the political miniftry of the court of
" Rome, in declaring a rupture between
■' their court, and that of his moil faithful
f* majefty ; the king feeing this, and that
" it is not any longer poffible, under the
" prefent difagreeable circumftances, to con-
" tinue his public minifter in Rome, or pre*
*' ferve in that city, a number of faithful
M and honorable vaflals, while they are daily
f* witnefTes of the repeated infults ufed to-c
*f wards him by the minifters of that court,
M who, contrary to the pontifical honor and
" decorum, have enticed many to their
?' party, that now declare themfelves noto*
*' rioufly as fuch, to the univerfal fcandal
u of all Europe ; in reflecting upon thefe
" circumitances, the aforefaid monarch finds
" himfelf obliged to command his before
Vol. Ill, K M mentioned

i46 LETTERS FROM

u mentioned minifter plenipotentiary, as well
" as all the vaflals of his crown, together
" with thofe who as fuch, enjoy ecclefiaf-
u tical benefices in his kingdom and domi-
*' nions, to depart forthwith from a court,
" where they can be of no fervice to the
** moft holy father, but only increafe by
" their prefence, the infults committed
" againft his majefty's royal authority. It
" is this royal authority which his majefty
(( can not difpenfe with himfelf, from main-
" taining as unviolated, and as independant
" with regard to temporal affairs, as his
" auguft anceftors tranfmitted it to hima
" without becoming refponfible, not only
" to God and the catholic church, of which
" he boafts himfelf a moil: devout fon, and
" exemplary defender, but at the fame time
*' to all the monarchs of the univerfe.

'* In confequence of the above mentioned
** order, his moll: faithful majefty com-
v mands all his vaflals tq appear tomorrow,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 147

V the third of this prefent month of July,
" at one-and-twenty of the Italian clock,.
<f at his minifter plenipotentiary's houfe of
'? refidence, in order to give an individual
if and exact account of all the fubjects of his
" majefty in this city. And to the end
<e that thefe royal and indifpenfible refolu-
*( tions of his mofl faithful majefty may
" come to the knowledge of all his vaffals
if refiding in this capital, I have ordered
" the prefent edict to be drawn out, which
" lhall be fubfcribed by me, and hung up
" in the royal hofpital of St. Anthony be-
" longing to the fame nation, in order that
e< no perfon may pretend the excufe of
" ignorance.

" Francifco de Almada and Mendonza.

<c From my refidence,
f* July 2, 1760,

" By his order, Don Francifco
ft Antonio Jofeph Rodriguez.

in. K 2 " Jn

i4S LETTERS FROM

" In confequence of the foregoing noti-
" fication, the thurfday afternoon a copious
*' meeting of Portuguefe was held at the

* Commendator d'Almada's houfe of refi-
" dence. This, after the manifefted and
*• intimated rupture between the two courts,
f< had the air of a mutiny. The holy
" father, however, tolerated this new excefs,
*' and fuffered a man flill to remain in Rome,
*' tho' upon many accounts he deferved fo
f* little to be confidered as the minifter of a
" prince, who profeffes to have an inclina*
" tion to cultivate the correfpondence and

* c affection of another. Saturday, the fifth
" of the aforefaid month of July, a frefh
" notification was hung up as before at the
*^ hofpital gate ; the remarkable tenor of
Ci which is as follows.

u Fran-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 149

*• Francifco de Almada and fyjendonza, of
4i the council of his majefty, &c.

" This is to give notice to all the vaffals
51 of our fovereign lord the king, that his
" holinefs, according to his ufual benignity,
" having confidered the impombility of the
" above mentioned minifter plenipotenti-
" ary's continuing his communication with
4i the political miniftry of his holinefs,
W contrary to the pofitive order of the king
ft his mafter, fo highly offended by it, has
" been fo good, to the total exclufion of the
" aforefaid political miniftry, to appoint the
" moft eminent and reverend cardinal Cor-
" fini, prote&or of the crown of his moft
" faithful majefty, in order that he mould
0i treat and confer with the above men-
" tioned minifter plenipotentiary concern-
** ing the prefent ftate of affairs in Portu-
" gal. It is hoped, therefore, that by the
" deputation of fo worthy and zealous a
" cardinal, new and fecure means will be
K .3 " opened

ijo LETTERS F R O TVT

u opened to his moft faithful majefty, for"

" obtaining that fatisfaction winch is dud

" to him, and with that expedition which

*' the exigence of the prefent circumftances

ce require. The faid minifter has therefore

" taken upon himfelf the fufpenfion of the

u rupture declared by his notification of the

" fecond of this month ; flattering himfelf

" that the holy father will be moved to give

" his majefty thofe deferved and neceffary

€l fatis factions, which the faid monarch fo

** religioufly expects from the inflexible

" juftice of his holinefs, who without

" doubt will remember the attempt of afla-

*' filiating a monarch in his own court, by

" the machinations proved and adjudged to

" a fociety of men, by their inffcitution de-

" dicated to God, as alfo that this very

" monarch, for the fpace of above a year

" fmce the execrable attempt, has fuffered

" fuch affronts and calumnies in a court,

" which is the head of the catholic church,

" as would oblige even a private perfon to

" demand fatisfaction.

« His

iTALY, GERMANY, &c. 15*

" His moft faithful majefty hopes at
*' prefent to find that redrefs which he fo
" religioufly expects from the inflexible
" juftice of his holinefs. And in order that
" the above mentioned fufpenfion of the
'* rupture may arrive to the knowledge of
" all the vaflals of our nation, I have order-
" ed the prefent edict to be made, which
" mall be fubfcribed with my name, and
*f hung up in the fame place as the former
" of the fecond of July.

" Francifco de Almada and Mendonza,

*' From the palace of my
u refidcnce, July 4, 1760.

" By his order, Don Francifco
" Antonio Jofeph Rodriguez.

After this notification the papal memorial
goes on as follows.

u It was in this manner the Commendator

" de Almada heaped injury upon injury, at

K 4 " the

15* LETTERS FROM

<c the fame time that he pretended to de-
" clare himfelf content with his holinefs.
** Upon this new fact the holy father could
" not in reafon (hew further toleration. He
u fent orders to cardinal Cornni to come to
*c him that fame evening. The cardinal
** had not as yet heard a word of this new
" event* His holinefs informed him of the
" abufe Commendator de Almada had made
" of the difcourfe he held with his eminence
" the Thurfday before, and how he had
" wrefted the words of his holinefs, when
" he told his eminence that he would treat
•* with no perfon but him concerning the
•* affairs of Portugal, to mean, that his
** eminence was to be the perfon to treat of
" the affairs of Portugal with Commendator
" de Almada, to the total exclufion of car-
<c dinal Torriggiani, the moil holy firft mi-
" nifter. This falfe intelligence he not
" only rendered public by the before men-
*' tioned notification, but he likewife fent

" written

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. i$$

" written notes of it to all the foreign
* minifters.

" Upon account then of all the foregoing
" circumftances, ourholyfather,tofreehimfelf
4* from aperfon whom he always found ready
*f toincreafe the flame of difcord, declared to
** cardinal Corfini that he would give ear
*** to no perfbn about any thing concerning
*; the affairs of Portugal, till the Commen-
" dator de Almada had not only left Rome,
" but was entirely gone out of the eccle-
" {iaftical dominions. That after his de-
M parture he would with pleafure attend
" to any difcourfe or treaty, which could
'* be entered upon, fo it was not contradic-
*' tory to his dignity and the decorum of
" the holy fee.

" This is the fincere account of what

*' preceded and accompanied the expulfion

" of cardinal Acciaiuoli from Portugal, and

4* the departure of the Commendator de

t f* Almada

i$4. LETTERS FROM

w Almada from the court of Rome. We have
" endeavoured to exprefs every thing in the
se moll: fimple manner, without ornament of
" emphatical words, the miferable refuge of
" perfons who know they are in the wrong.
u Thofe who have right on their fide, are
V contented that every auditor mould form
" their judgment upon the indifputable
" bafis of facts."

LET.

Italy, Germany, &c 155

LETTER XIV.

Rome, Saturday, May 3, half
an hour after 1 1 morning,

rip

JL O the papal memorial in my laft the

Portuguefe have publifhed an anfwer, which
is the fame burnt by the hands of the hang-
man about two months ago. It is tedious
and flupid, nor would have been ever read,
if fuch a noife had not been made about it,
I will give you, howeveu, fome of the heads
of it.

After having faid much about the preced-
ing affairs, he accufes the nuncio for not
making illuminations the three nights of
general feftivity for the royal marriage.
*' Tho' fome lights were feen. on common
i( evenings, all then wras dark and difmal,
*' and the pontifical nuncio feemed to mourn

" at

156 LETTERS FROM

" at the happy event." When he comes
to the expulfion, he fays, the guards were
neceflary to defend his eminence from the
infolence of the mob, who, enraged at his
neglect, had avTembled about the houfe,
and would have proceeded to greater vio-
lences, if their fury had not been appeafed
by the cardinal patriarch, who lived next
door. As to the expulfion, he juflifies it by
various examples, and the authorities of
Montefquieu and Grotius, who fay that an
ambaflador, abufing his right of reprefenta-
tion, is to be fent back. He laughs at the re-
marking with how much more civility the car-
dinal was treated at the firft town in Spain,
where he was only a paffenger, than in Por-
tugal, where he favored traitors to that crown,
and who had been declared fuch in form
by his moil faithful majefty. " To be fure
0 he ought to have had the king's own
*' coach to carry his facred perfon, but he
" was much better off than the Commenda-
" tor de Almada, who had neither coach

" nor

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 157

u nor horfes allowed him, when he was
" obliged to leave Rome. But they would
** not let the cardinal hear mafs, which is a
" tremendous accufation; however, no eccle-
" fiaftical precept can be binding at the
" expence of great tumults and bloodfhed,
*' and his eminence might have equally
*' heared the fame at Aldea Gallega. The
u filence of the fortreffes of Elvasand Eftre-
•' mos, through which he pafied, is to be
u excufed by thofe honors never being
u fhewn to perfons who lie under the dif-
tf pleafure of the reigning monarch, and
" from the want of gun-powder to quell
" the feditions fomented by his eminence.'7
He then recites the attempts of the nuncio
and cardinal Torrigiani, the pope's minifter,
againft Portugal ; and, upon the latter hav-
ing accufed that nation of wanting to adopt
the maxims and religion of the Engliih, he
oddly adds, " That we mall fee hereafter
" who is the perfon that is moft inclined to
p adopt the Englifli maxims and religion.

" Perhaps

15S LETTERS FROM

" Perhaps cardinal Torriggiani himfelf h
" neareft to that point, for he has no reli-
" gion at all." He then proceeds to prove
hisaccufations, which he does, however, only
upon his own word, by faying that " thefe
" two cardinals were impioufly and facri-
*~ legioufly united with the friars of that
u company, which derived its name from
" Jefus, contrary to the welfare of his ma-
" jefty, the quiet of his kingdoms, and the
" decorum of the holy fee." He fays they
agreed to declare that the proceedings againft
the Jefuits were unjuft and odious to the
whole Portuguefe nation. Cardinal Torrig-
giani was to write this to all foreign courts,
and the nuncio was to fecond it under pain
of being relegated as bifhop to the little
town of Rimini. Frightened with thefe
threats, cardinal Acciaiuoli talked of the
great power of the Jefuits, and kept him-
felf at a diftance from that court, to which
he was fent. He did not vifit the cardinal
patriarch becaufe he had not been with

him,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 159

him. The conde de Oeyras did not treat
him with fufficient affability. " Undoubt-
€S edly he ought to have bowed down before
" the apoftolical nuncio, as has been here-
" tofore done, through a badly underftood
" devotion." A confpiracy was likewife
formed by thefe two intriguing cardinals,
ff which might not have been fo eafily dif-
€S covered, if the nuncio had been more
u cautious in concealing his meetings with
" the heads of it." Notwithiianding this
" his majefty only folicited the removal
" of the two cardinals from public affairs ;
" but finding the confpiracy increafe, he
" was obliged to proceed to the expulfion
" of cardinal Acciaiuoli, tho' he might
£? have treated him as a violator of all laws
?6 divine and human* He even concealed
16 his crimes under the colour of being
V offended at his not illuminating his palace.
64 By proceeding in this manner, his ma-
." jefty was enabled to quell the confpiracy,
ff tho' he found with difpleafure fome per-

" fons

160 LETTERS FROM

" fons engaged in it, who had the neareft
" connexions with the royal family." The
author then proceeds tojuftify the Commen-
dator de Almada as acting from orders, and
gives inftances of difrefpect fhewn to him.
They made him ftay a confiderable time in
the ante-chamber, before he was admitted
to an audience of the pope. When he
went to the pope's nephew, with the fon of
the firft minifter of Portugal, they were
never aflted to fit down, and another time
he was made to wait fo long, that he went
away. Cardinal Torriggiani, the firft mi-
nifter, received him leaning, and in improper
poitures, but what is more important, told
him, when the king of Portugal was wound-
ed, •' that it was owing to the fins of that
" nation." He confirmed this upon ano-
ther occafion, and added, " Can you deny,
*? fir, that Lilbon is become as bad as
" Geneva ? Why there are people that
" buy the Moorifh women, only to proftitute
" them, and fell the children." Commen*

dator

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 161

dator de Almada was obliged to make fome
anfwer, but within the rules of modefty
and decency ; upon which the cardinal re-
plied, " that he had never been at Lilbon
" himfelf. This proves that his friends
*• the Jefuits gave him the information."
The author then accufes the pope for not
anfwering his majefty's requisitions concern-
ing the Jefuits, as being offended at his
faithful majefty's not writing to him imme-
diately upon his exaltation, tho' he was
laboring under the wound he had receive.!
from the aflaffins. When the trial of the
criminals arrived in Rome, it was forbidden
to be reprinted, and when Commendator de
Almada afked leave to do it at his own
expence, it was refufed him ; and upon his
defiring to fenow the caufe, was told that
his holinefs never gave reafons for his aclions
to any perfon. In the mean time cardinal
Torriggiani publifhed every thing he could
in favor of the Jefuits, and ironically
laughed at the accufations againil them.
Vol, III, L " Do

16a LETTERS FROM

" Do not tell me," fays he, " of the Jefuits
6( being guilty of the crimes laid to their
" charge. We know what a jealous nation
u the Portuguefe are. They are only afraid
" thefe reverend fathers mould leave horns
" in their houfes. An exprerhon," exclaims
my author, " worthy of a cardinal,
" worthy of a prelate, who bears the title
" of fir ft minifter to his holinefs." He
ordered alfo his fpies to inform him of thofe
who fpake ill of that fociety. The auditor
of cardinal Conti was taken up on that ac-
count. A lay friar of the convent of the
Minerva was baniihed from Rome, for feek-
ing after the papers which came out againft
the Jefuits, to pleafe his friends in the
country. On the contrary, the books print-
ed by the Jefuits againft the king of Portu-
gal were put upon a level with the gofpel,
tho' they attacked the reputation of his
majcfty, the honor of his people, and the
conduct of his minifter. Moniignor Correa
was told he could not be advanced in the

church,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 163

church, becaufe he was a Portuguefe. The
king has, therefore, certainly a right not to
treat with the firil minifter of his holmefs, by
whom his nation is held in fuch comtempt.
With regard to the papers diftributed by the
Commendator de Almada, they were fent to
him exprefsly from Liibon. " It is laid, if
" he had not been denied an audience, he
" might have prefented them to the pope
'* in perfon. Being a future contingency,
" he might or he might not. They were
" perhaps fent purpofely to be (hewn to his
" holmefs, who ought to have pleafure in
" hearing the truth. But they were fpread
" abroad with an intention of injuring his
" holinefs, as my antagonist afferts, tho*
" it is impofiible to judge of intentions or
" thoughts. The church itfelf, guided by
" the Holy Ghofi, does not claim this ex-
" traordinary privilege. It is an injury to
"* his moil faithful majefty even to think that
" Commendator de Almada had an intention
** of affronting a prince, who is faid to unite

L % in

164 LETTERS FROM

" in his perfon the ccclejiajlkal and civil
" fovereignty. I know not by what au-
" thority thefe attributes are given to his
" holinefs." The author then inufts upon
cardinal Neri Corfini having been appointed
to treat concerning the affairs of Portugal,
and brings letters which feem to prove
there was fome truth in it. He falls foul
upon the title of mofr. holy firfl minifter,
given to cardinal Torriggiani. " I know,
fays he, "that in the ftyle of the law, the pope
" or high pontiff is called the moft holy. I
" know that the moft facred body of our Sa-
" viour, in the confecrated wafer, is likewife
" called the moft holy. But it does not
" feem at all proper to me that the title of
" moft holy mould be lodged in the perfon
" of cardinal Torriggiani, whether we con-
" fider him as a politician or as a prelate."
He then accufes cardinal Cavalchini, who
is alio in the adtnmiftration, " of calling the
" king of Portugal a tyrant, and ftyles him
" a blind mercenary prelate." After much

other

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. i$S

other abufe, which rather proves the author
to be a low-bred perfon, he concludes with
this fentence of Juftiniah,

Non quod fit Romae, fed quod fieri debet
attendendum eft.

* We muft regard not what is done, but what ought to
be done at Rome,

L 3 L E T-

i66 , LETTERS FROM

LETTER XV.

Rome, three quarter^ after 12, morning,
Wednefday, May 6, 1761.

La ST night I heard an odd ftory. A
Dutch gentleman had it by letter from the
Spanifh envoy, or ambaffador at the Hague,
who is one of the principal perfons concerned
in it. His name I think is Grimaldi. A
letter came to him, from a gentleman in
Spain of birth and fortune, acquainting him
with his fon's being eloped from that king-
dom, and, that he had heard of his being at
file Hague. He then defcribed his perfon, and
the manner in which they told him he ufed
generally to go drefled, and deiired the am-
bafiador to make all poffible enquiries after
him. Grimaldi acted accordingly, but his
refearches were fruitlefs for a long time.
Pne evening, at a play, he faw in the pit a

perfon

ITALY, GERMANY, &c i67

perfon that anfwered every circifmflarice of

his friend's letter. He gave orders to his
, fervants to dog him when he went home,
and bring him word where he lived. They
did fo, and brought him word, that they
had followed the young man to a certain
public houfe, of which I do not remember
the name, but was not one of the bell at
the Hague. Grimaldi went the next day
to the place, and enquired for the before-
mentioned perfon. The landlord knew him
by the defcription, and conducted Grimaldi
up to his room. The Itranger fcolded the
landlord, for introducing a gentleman of the
rank of Grimaldi into his chamber, which
was lb indifferent and all in a litter. Gri-
maldi faid, that he need not make any apo-
logy, for that he was ufed to go into all forts
of rooms, and deiired the man of the houfe
to leave them alone a little. Upon the land-
lord's difappearanee, Grimaldi opened him-
felf to the young gentleman, and told him,
that he was informed of his quality, and

L 4 that

168 LETTERS FROM

that his relations were very defirous of his
returning into Spain. The young man, in a
genteel manner, denied his being the perfon
Grimaldi fpoke of, and affirmed, that there
mult, undoubtedly have been fome miftake
in his being directed to him. Come, come,
young man, fays Grimaldi, do not fear any
thing. I know you. Your parents and re-
lations are willing to excufe any errors of
youth, you may have been guilty of. I
have orders likewife to pay what debts you
have contracted here. I am fure you will
have no difficulty in gratifying the deiires
of your relations, that are fo good to you,
and return home. Come, come, confefs
every thing, and you may be fure all your
friends will behave in the kindeil manner to-
wards you. The young gentleman, forced
by thefe rernon (Trances of the Spanifh minif*
ter, at lad eonfefTed himfelf to be the per-
ion. He laid he had been guilty of follies,
but as his friends treated him with fo much
tendernefs, he could not do lefs than ac-
knowledge

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. i6$

knowledge it, and attempt to repair matters
by his good behaviour for the future. Gri-
,maidi then told him, it was not proper for a
perfon of his rank to flay in fo bad a houfe,
and that he would take him into his own,
till things were ready for his departure.
Accordingly he did fo, and in about ten days
every thing was in order for the young
gentleman to fet off. His debts amounted
to the fum of ten thoufand gueldres, or a
thoufand pounds. Thefe Grimaldi diicharged.
The day of his departure being arrived, he
fet off, accompanied by a couple of fervants
belonging to the Spanifh minifter. He had
behaved very well all the time he was in
Grimaldi' s houfe, and did the fame quite to
Bruflels. As he feemed fo very reafonable,
and entirely content with every thing that
had been done for him, the fervants did not
keep fo ftricl: a watch over him as they ought.
In fhort, our gentleman difappeared about a
day before he was to proceed upon his journey,
and has not been heard of fm.ce. The two

fervants

*7o LETTERS FROM

fervants returned to the Hague, to acquaint
their mafter with what had happened. But
Grimaldi, in the mean time, had received a
letter from his friend in Spain, acquainting
him with his having found his fon, and
that he had never been out of that kingdom.
You may imagine what a rage the Spanifli
minifler was in, to have been tricked in this
manner. But he abfoiutely forced the cheat
upon the young man, who ftrenuoufly denied
his being the perfon at flrit, and was with
difficulty, and half by compuliion, brought
to confefs it. It is not known with cer-
tainty who this impoftor could have been.
But it is imagined, that mod: probably he was
a Spanifh valet de chambre. Whoever he was,
he was well acquainted with the names and
anecdotes of the family that loft their fon.

Rome, i o'clock afternoon,
Thurfday, May 7, 1761.

I have heard another flory, which I dare
fay is a lie, however, it made me laugh.

It

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 171

It is as follows. The teller declares it is
true, and that an account of it is come by
letter from Thouloufe, where the facl: is
faid to have happened.

Five chimney fweepers in that city were
complaining to each other of the hardships
of their way of life. That they were
always dirty, and poking about chimneys,
in fhort, that they paffed their time in a
very difagreeable manner. One of them
ftarted a new thought. Had we not better,
fays he, go and expofe ourfelves to military
fire, rather than that of chimneys. They
all at laft agreed, that there was nothing
like ferving the king, for at leaft, if they
were killed, they fhould die like gentlemen.
You mull: under ftand, that they were all a
little in liquor. The foregoing refolution
being unanimoufly made, they went all five
to a ferjeant, and told him their intention
qf inlifting. Two louis d'ors, to be paid
down immediately to each, was the bargain

made

jys LETTERS FROM

made for their entrance. The money was
received, they were inlifhed, cockades were
put in their hats, and all over. They were
quartered in a guard-room that evening, and
the next morning were to be fent to the
regiment. After they had flept a proper
time, to be able to make due reflexions, they
began to repent of what they had done.
They fell foul upon the poor man that had
firfb given them the advice. However, they
had fenfe enough to know that fcolding
was of no fervice, and that they had better
think of fome remedy for the impending
misfortune. What was to be done ? the
doors and windows were impaflable, for
there were foldiers all about. They were
alone in the room, a thing, which tho* I
have not told you, yet you may have ima-
gined, from the preceding circumftances.
At laft, a chimney prefented itfelf to their
view. It was now dark. No fooner thought
than executed. Allons, was the word. Their
coats were ftripped off. Their evil coun^

fellor

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 173

fellor led the way. The reft followed. In
a fhort fpace of time, they found themfelves
fafe upon the roof of the houfe. But tho*
they were now in open air, they were almofl
in as great a dilemma as before. They di-
verted themfelves indeed, in running about
the tops of the houfes, but no fecure method
of defcending offered. At laft, they thought
it beft to hazard the going down another
chimney, where there was no fire lighted,
and which was at a good diftance from that
which they had afcended. They did fa.
But to change the fcene, and precede them,
into the room where they were defcending.
Many gentlemen and ladies were fitting
round a great table playing at pharaoh, the
fafhionable game in thefe countries for per-
fons who love to hazard their money. The
firft thing they heard was a noife in the
chimney, and after a little jump, a man not
of the whiteft appeared in it. A fecond
followed trie firft, a third the fecond, in
mort, they all exhibited their fable perfon-

ages

i74 LETTERS FROM

ages to the affembly. The company, fuffi-
ciently furprized at the appearance of the
firft man, were ftill more fo at that of the
fecond. The arrival of the third caufed a
univerfal panic. The fourth raifed them
from their chairs, and the fifth fent them
running out of the room. Whether they
thought them robbers or fpirits, is what is
not yet afcertained, but their terror had
made them leave all their money difplayed
upon the table. The firfr. thing the chimney
fweepers did, upon finding themfelves maf-
ters of the field of battle, was to plunder the
enemy's camp. They layed violent hands
upon the money, which flood expofed to
view. Loaden with the fpoils, they called
a council of war to confult what was pro-
per to be done. It was agreed to return to
the guard-room, clean themfelves there as
well as they could, and fay nothing of the
matter. They did fo. As they had been
but a little time abfent, they truflied to their
not being miffed, which proved the cafe.

Earlv

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 175

Early the morning after, when the foldiers
and other people began to enter the room,
they found them pretty much in the ftate
they had left them in the evening before.
They were, perhaps, a little dirtier, but as
they had never been clean, the difference did
not ftrike the fpectators. When the fer-
jeant appeared, they began by telling him,
that they heartily repented what they had
done the evening before, and that they
were drunk when they inlifted. They
then proceeded to acquaint him, that they
would try and get him a little fum of money
if he would let them go. It was agreed that
they mould give him twenty louis d'ors,
double the fum which he had paid them.
They faid it would be difficult for them to
raife io much. That they would try how-
ever, what they could do with their friends
and relations, rather than be forced into the
army. One was fent to negociate for the
reft. Some little time after, he returned
with the money, which he pretended to have

had

176 LETTERS FROM

had much difficulty in raifing. The twenty
louis d'ors were paid. The chimney fweep*
ers were releafed, and they went away hi
triumph, to divide the remainder of their
fpoil, which was not inconfiderable

LET-

Italy, Germany, &c 177

LETTER XVI.

Whitfunday, May 10, almoft n o'clock
in the morning, 1761. Rome.

£N O news at Rome, except that three
woman were murdered laft night in their
houfe. But the circumftances, or even the
truth of the fa£t, is not jet known. Things
with regard to Malta go on the fame as
before. Many knights fet out yefterday
from Rome to go to Civita Vecchia, and
embark on board the pope's galleys for that
ifland. The papal galleys, the St. Peter
and St. Paul, to which has been lately added
the St. Profpero, go out every fummer to
cruife againft the Turks and Moors. Once
they took a little Mooriih bark, and what
triumphs did they not make when they
returned home ! I do not know whether
they did not even illuminate the whole
Vol, III. M town

i78 LETTERS FROM

town of Rome for it. I have been this
morning in Villa Medici, in which, after
the great rains, every plant fmells and looks
mo ft delightfully. The pope had been
obliged to offer up his prayers to heaven for
fair weather, and at length he has been
heard. To mew you how much cardinal
Torriggiani is hated here at Rome, I will
add the following epitaph made upon him,
which fuppofes him dead and buried at the
leaning wall, the place where they inter
Jews, criminals, excommunicated perfons,
&c. Proteftants are buried in Sextus's tomb.
Januenfes is a modern Latin word ufed here
for the Genoefe, whom the pope has laid
under cenfures for refufing to acknowledge
a nuncio he fent to the Coriicans.

* Diis manibus Genioque loci.
Aloylio Cofimo Torriggiani Cardinali

Flo-

* To the infernal Gods and evil genius of the place.
The fenate and people of Rome have prepared this

fepulchre

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 179

Florentino,

Quod Januenfes e finu matris Ecclefiae

Expulerit,

Populumque Romanum Lufitanicae

Pecuniae pondere fublevaverit,

Exulumque Jefuitarum numerum

Mirifice auxerit,

Senatus Populufque Romanus extra portam

Flaminiam ad murum incUnatum
Monumentum pofuit tumulumque paravit.

The Porta Flaminia is what is now called
Porta del Popolo, of which I have already
given a defcription.

fepulchre, and raifed this monument at the leaning wall,
without the Flaminian gate, to the cardinal Aloylius
Cofimus Torrigiani of Florence, for having expelled the
Genoefe from the bofom of the holy church ; for having
eafed the Roman people from the weight of Portnguefe
money ; and for having wonderfully increafed the num-
ber of exiled Jefuits.

M ^ Wednef-

i8o LETTERS FROM

Wednefday, May 13, half after la
at noon, 1761. Rome.

It is true that the three women were
murdered four nights ago, but as yet it is
not known who did it. The houfe was
likewife robbed. According to the cuftom
of this country, moll: of the people who
iived nigh, or had any concerns with the
family have been put into prifon, in order
to undergo proper examinations. They fay
it muft have been more than one who perpe-
trated this horrid deed, by the * inftruments
of death found in the houfe. There was a
knife and two or three of thofe inftruments
with which they kill hogs in this country..
It is a fort of long awl, which they run into
their hearts, and fo put the poor beafts out
of their pain much quicker than we do.

* Thefe circumstances were not true, as will be feen
hereafter by the confeffion of the criminal, which is in
thefe paper*.

The

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. rSi

The following edict is publifhed concerning
this affair, which I will tranflate, to mew
you the ftyle of the country in thefe forts
of things.

" Edia

M of impunity and reward.

" The moil illuftrious and reverend
" Cornelius Caprara, governor general of
" Rome and its diftrids, and vice-chamber-
" lain to his holinefs, being defirous of
" coming to the knowledge of thofe male-
*' factors, who, on faturday morning, the
" ninth of this prefent month of May, did,
" by many wounds and ftabs, barbaroufly
" murder in their own habitation, oppofite
" to St. Guilianello's church, the three un-
'* happy women, Francifca Dei, widow of
" the late Jofeph Antonio Rofati, Anna
" Dei, widow the late Francis Roffi, toge-
" ther with Francifca Vetturini, (their
" maid fervant) ; The governor being de-
** lirous of coming to the knowledge of the
M 3 *' authors

132 LETTERS FROM

M authors of the aforefaid enormous crimen,

" to the end that they may receive the

" punifhment due to their horrid action,

" orders and commands, according to the

ct oracle received exprefsly from the mouth

" of our holy father, that whatever perfons

<c of whatever ftate, degree or condition,

" even ecclefiaftical, have any knowledge of

" the malefactors, who perpetrated the afore-

" faid murders, as well as of thofe who

" have harboured the fame, or have any

*' way been accomplices to the before men-

" tioned crime, fhould declare what they

•' know, within the fpace of two months,

44 to his moll: illuftrious fignorfhip, or his

" principal notary here underwritten. And

c< this under an affurance of the perfons

" fo informing remaining undifcovered, and

" under pain, in cafe of difobedience, of

" being condemned to the galleys, either

" for a certain time or for life, according

*' to the more or lefs aggravating circum-r

& fiances of their omiffion, the determining

of

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 1S3

'/ of which will remain in the breaft of his
tc moll: illuftrious fignorfhip.

" On the contrary, thofe who mail reveal
M the malefactor or malefactors, or accom-
" plices of the faid murders, mail receive
" the reward of five hundred crowns (pretty
near the fame as a crown Englifh,) " to be
" dilburfed immediately by the reverend a-
'* poftolical chamber, provided that they give
*• fufflcient information to proceed againfr.
" the malefactors, who have abfconded, and
" to expofe to the torture thofe who are
" apprehended.

V And fuppofing the informer be an ac-
" complice, over and above the reward, he
" lhall receive a full and entire pardon*
" provided he give fufficient information, as
" above, againft the other malefactors.

" And in order that no perfon may have
" excufe for not obeying thefe our com-

M 4 mands,

i84 LETTERS FROM

" mands, our holy father releafes from the
" blame of irregularity any ecclefiaftic that
** may reveal, or do any thing in execution of
*' this prefent edict, which fhall be affixed
and hung up in the ufual places of Rome-.

n

" Rome. From our manfion^houfe, May
" II, 1761,

<c

C, Caprara, governor and vice-chamberlain.
" Bernardino Rofetti, notary."

This is all we know at prefent of fo horrid
an affair. Indeed, I wonder more murders
do not happen in Rome, as the government
is fo very mild, or rather relaxed. I do not
believe they execute above one perfon in a
year. There are many caufes of this, but
the two principal are the protection of the
churches, and the protection of the princes
and cardinals. The churches fave, at leaft,
the life of the criminal, who flies for refuge
to them. Princes and cardinals by their

inters

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 185

Interceffion do as much ; for they are fuch
great people, there is hardly any denying
them. And then the trials themfelves are
generally fo long, that two years often pafs
before the criminal can be brought to due
punifhment. True it is, they have tortures
to terrify them in prifon, but they do not
perhaps produce the defired effect. The
ftreets too are fo dark, and the town fo ill,
or rather not at all guarded, that many
murders muff happen. This morning, after
various vifits, I proceeded in my coach along
the Corfo, paffed Piazza Colonna, and after-
wards Piazza Navona, and arrived at laff at
Pafquin's flatue, fo famous for the fatires
in former times hung upon it, and which
thence took the name of pafquinades. It
is here Pagliarini, my bookfeller, lives. I
have already told you that the head of the
family is in confinement for having printed
fomething about the affairs of Portugal, but
his brother carries on the bufinefs of the
{hop. Rummaging over books, I here light

upon

i86 LETTERS FROM

upon a curious performance. It was a pom-
pous account of the embaffy fent by James
the fecond to the pope. Lord Caftlemaine
was the ambaffador, attended by other Roman
catholic gentlemen. The author, however,
only explains, tho' curioufly, the ceremonies,
but not the end of this ambairy. I believe
the real caufe of it was always a thorough
fecret, but it was undoubtedly fomething
regarding affairs of religion. The pope
ought to be now contented, for he has not
only an ambaffador, but the family itfelf
at his court. The young pretender, indeed^
is wanting, and we do not know what can
poffibly be become of him. It is a myftery.
Tho' I can not think him dead, for I fee no
end in concealing his death. Nor mould I
think he was in France, as he was fo very
ill treated by that nation laft war, that if he
has the leaf! fpirit, he will never have any
thing more to do with them. The French,
after having figned the treaty of Aix la
Chapelle, feized him at the opera, bound

him,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 187

him, and carried him, guarded, to the fron-
tiers of France. A few months before they
had mewn him royal honors, and promifed
him affiitance in money and troops. Perhaps
the court of Rome and the court of England
may know where he is, but the body of
people in both nations are, I believe, equally
ignorant of his deftiny. The old man lives
very retired, and I think you hardly ever
hear his name mentioned. Cardinal Stuart,
or, as they call him here York, the younger
brother, makes more noife, and parades
about Rome, having had large benefices
granted to him.

Thurfday, May 14, three quarters after
12 at noon, 1761, Rome.

With regard to the murder of the thret
women, there is a fufpicion, they fay, fallen
upon three journeymen taylors, who ufed to
frequent their houfe, and who have abfent-
,cd themfelves from Rome.

The

i8S LETTERS FROM

The Roman galleys fat out yefterday from
Civita Vecchia to cruife againft the Moors,
and conduct at the fame time many knights
of Malta to their little ifland. There were
a great number of them afTembled here at
Rome, from the different parts of the
world, in their way to Malta, in obedience
to the grand mailer's orders. He has
laid a tax too upon thofe who have com-
mendas or benefices, fo that the govern-
ing part of the order is likely to be a gainer
by this threatened invafion of the Turks;
We hear at prefent no talk of them, nor
do I believe that they had ever any inten*
tions againft that ifland*

LET-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 189

LETTER XVII.

Sunday, May 17, 1761. Three quarters
after 12 at noon. Rome.

2\ Nephew of the three women that were
murdered has been taken up upon fufpicion
of having committed the deed, but there
ftem to be no grounds for the furmife.

I was laft night at the Jews fynagogue,
where they had fome great feftival, I know
not what. I there faw a number of rooms
illuminated with lights, and heard a number
of people making a very great noife. The
Ghetto is the- name of the place which
the Jews inhabit in Rome, and In many
other parts of Italy. It is a diitricT: of the
city walled in, within which they are obliged
to live. They may come out into the town
during the day time, but the gates of their
J di virion

190 LETTERS FROM

divifion are fhut up at fun-fet, nor are they
unlocked until fun-rife. However, this
evening, as it was a particular feftival, they
had leave to keep them open till late. Upon
our arrival there, we found four or five
more coaches belonging to perfons whofe
curiofity had brought them upon the fame
errand as ourfelves. The Jews treated us
with great civility, and indeed, how could a
people fo humbled as thefe are, do otherwife ?
As there were a number of lights, and a
number of people, the heat was moll; excef-
five. There was a fort of ftench too, which
is generally to be enjoyed in the Ghetto, and
which I believe is owing to the great quan-
tity of inhabitants in it, near ten thoufand
crouded altogether. After I had feen every
thing that was to be feen, I thanked Ema-
nuel, a Jew of my companion's acquaintance*
who had been our gentleman ufher, and we
re-entered the Chriftian part of Rome.* Poor
unhappy nation of the Jews ! I pity them in
thefe countries. The Ave Maria bell no

foorier

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 191

fooner rings, which is half an hour after
fun-fet, than immediately the gates of the
Ghetto are fruit, nor is there any more
egrefs from them till morning. I think
they are nearly as bad off as the Englifli
were in William the Conqueror's time, when
at the toll of the curfew they were obliged to
put out fire and candle. They may indeed
have as much fire and as many candles as
they pleafe, but then liberty, all-defired liberty
is denied them. They pay befides many
heavy taxes to the pope, and receive many
infults from the people, and yet notwith-
ftanding all of them remain faithful to their
law and religion. Tho* indeed, if we turn
our eyes to Spain and Portugal, the privi-
leges they have here are great. They burn
them, at leaf! did fo formerly, in thofe
countries if they are difcovered. Tho' I
believe that law only regards Spanim and
Portugueie fubjects, who apoftatize to the
Jewifh religion, to which they fay thofe two
nations are very much inclined. However,

their

191 LETTERS FROM

their fituation in Rome, tho' not fo bad, Is
not the moil agreeable. And then they are
obliged every faturday, which is their fab-
bath, to attend at a Chriftian fermon. It is
a Dominican friar who preaches to them.
They fay many of them flop their ears, not
to hear the blafphemies which.* according to
their way of thinking, muft be uttered.
Many too, in fpight of the noife the Italian
preachers make, refign themfelves into the
arms of deep. To remedy the two before
mentioned evils, a knight armed with a cane,
patrols through the affembly, and inflicts
more or lefs blows of it upon delinquents in
iimilar cafes, according to the greater or lefs
henioufnefs of their offence. Many others
are the difagreeable cireumilances to which
the Jews in Rome are fubjecl* They are
forbidden to keep the Talmud, faid to be
traditions from Mofes and the Prophets, and
in which their prefent religion chiefly con-
lifts. Where the facrament is expofed in
any church, they are not to pafs by the door

of

ITALY, GERMANY, ice. 193

of it. Upon good friday they dare not ap-
pear out of their habitations, and indeed all
eafler they have but a bad time. They are
known by a yeliowifh piece of cloth they
are obliged to wear tied about the crown of
their hat. Poor Jews ! I pity them. If per-
fecution alone proves a religion, as ah Irifh-
man in Spain told me it did, iu relation to
the hardmips he complained the Roman
catholics fufFered in that iiland, if, I fay, per-
fection alone can prove a religion, that of
the Jews has more right at prefent to be true
than any. The fact I believe is, that no re-
ligion is to be deftroyed by perfecution, for
the moment perfons are perfuaded of the
truth of what they believe, let that perfuaiion
be ever fo falfe, yet as their blindnefs makes
them convinced of it, they would facrifce
every thing in the world to preferve it.

Vol. III. N LET-

194 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XVIII.

Rome, Thurfday, May 2T,
I o'clock afternoon.

VV E have had the news this morning of
Beliifle's having furrendered to the BritiiTi
arms. I hope it may be true. There is alfo
a report of there having been taken up at
Tenacina, three men fuppofed to be the
authors of the late murder. We talk of peace,
but whether with foundation I know not.

I have been this morning to fee the pro-
ceffion of the Corpus Domini. I was tired
with it, as being longer and lefs curious than
thofe in Spain. At Rome they have no
dancing giants or other pretty things of that
kind, to divert your eyes. Indeed this capital,
in its outward appearance, is the mofc like a
proteflant country of any Roman catholic

town

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 19$

town I have ever feen, The fuperftitious
ornaments of their religion abound much
more the farther you go from the capital
of it. It is indeed natural, if we reflect, that
it mould be fo, and the farther any opinion
is removed from its center the more it dege-
nerates. I was pleafed at the wonder, which
one Sebaftian, a fervant I have juft got out
of the country, fhewed at every thing. He
feems come into a new world from fo little a
place as Bibbiena, from whence I had hircu
The magnificence of the proceflion, and of
St. Peter's church, and the croud of people
and all together confufed his mind to fuch
a degree, he did not feem to know what to
do. Indeed St. Peter's is a moil: magnificent
edifice, and the oftener I go into it the more
it ftrikes me. I have heard fome prejudiced
EnglihY equal St. Paul's to it, but they either
muft have no eyes, or thofe organs muft have
a very diminifhing effect with regard to
things fituated out of their native country.

N 2 - The

i96 LETTERS FROM

The only part of the proceffion which was
new to me, was the pile on which the pope
was carried, which was raifed to a great
height, and fupported by many people who
walked under it. On the top of all, bolftered
in with cufhions, knelt the pope, whofe
hands were fupported aloft by a defk made
on purpofe, and in them was raifed to public
view the confecrated wafer. Behind him
were held upon long poles, large fans of
oftrich feathers, which made him appear as
in the clouds to a fpeclator from the ground.
As the pompous machine paffed we all knelt
down, which I have heard in England to be
wrong, but the contrary feems expofing
yourfelf to an offended populace, without any
profit or honor. After all was over I re-
turned part of the way in bodily fear, upon
account of the croud of coaches, and my
coachman has a great propeniity to run foul
of all carriages he meets in his way. Some
time ago he joitled me againft a cart full of
wood, and had like to have overturned the

carriage,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 197

carnage, becaufe he would not ft ay a
moment or two till the load was paffed.
I fcolded him for it. His reply was, " that
he had no patience with thole fellows, who
had fo little refpect for gentlemen. That
there was a great deal of difference between
them and himfelf. That they carried wood,
but he cavaliers." My ahfwer to this was,
that what he faid was true, but that if the
wood was overturned, it was only picking it
up again, if on the contrary the cavalier broke
his neck, it would be very difficult to find
out an equivalent remedy.

N 3 LET-

i83 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XIX.

Rome, 7 o'clock evening,
Sunday, May 24, 1761.

IHAVE been this morning to St. Paul's,
a church not out of the gates of Rome, but
near a couple of miles from the inhabited
part of it. The walls of Rome at prelent,
are of the fame extent as the ancient.
Now, as the city is not quite fo populous
and flouriihing, as it was in the time of
the emperors, there is a large fpace of
ground within the walls, not only not
inhabited, but even not built upon. There
are plantations of vineyards, and other ru-
ral productions, juil as if you were in the
country. I imagine, in the days of anci-
ent Rome, that the city had large fub-
urbs likewife adjoining. But there is fome
difference between the capital of the pope's

territories,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 199

territories, and the metropolis of the greatefr.

part of the civilized world, as Rome then

was. After having experienced fome heat

along a large dufry road, we arrived at St.

Pauls'. Tho' St. Peter's is much fuperior,

this church is nothing like equal to its

name fake in London. It is notwithftand-

ing, a handfome building, and there is a

very fine antique colonnade of granite,

that leads up to the principal altar. I fay

the principal altar, becaufe Roman catholic

churches have many of them. That which

is called the principal, {lands in the place

where our communion table does, and then

on each fide, as you go down, there are a row

of others. They call them chapels, where

there is no more than one altar. VVejuft

walked a little about St. Paul's, to look at

it and enjoy the coolnefs of its ayles, for

as the fine weather is returned, it begins

now to be a little warm. Scbaftian, who

was with us, flared about in wonder at the

magnificence of Rome and its environs. It

N 4 certainly,

aoo LETTERS FROM

certainly, take it altogether, is the mofl
magnificent city I have ever feen. Florence
is cleaner, and perhaps, more agreeable,
with a prettier country about it, which is
well cultivated, while here near Rome, it is
but badly fo in general. The Romans have
different ideas from other nations. In fecular
governments, commercial, civil, and military
employments, are what are moft fought after.
Here perfons who flatter themfelves with
having talents, immediately endeavour to
enter into orders. Indeed it is the only way
in which they can raife themfelves, for who
is not a prelate can have no public office.
The prelature is that ecclefiaftical rank,
by which perfons are qualified to bear
charges under the government. Indeed there
are the pope's few officers to his troops, who
are not prelates, and yet have pofls, fuch as
they are, but even thefe are fubfervient to
their head, the prelate Monfignor Picco-
luomini, who is generalifluno of the papal
forces.

The

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. ao?

The fun is juft fet behind Villa Madama.
The fhadows lengthen. Night approaches*
As ufual, I am going to drefs for evening
vifits.

LET-

*o# LETTERS FROM

LETTER XX.

Rome, ii o'clock at night,
Wednefday, May 27, 1761.

IN O lefs than a lord is come to lodge over
my head, a lord fomething or other, but he
is an Irifh Roman catholic. Stretched upon
my fofa after dinner, to enjoy partly the be-
nefit of fleep, and partly of building caflles
in the air, I was all on a fudden waked
from my reveries, by an unexpected noife
over head. This noife was not like that of
a man walking. It more refembled that of
the hammers of a paper mill beating (lowly.
After the found had patrole.d all about the
apartments that are over mine, it came to
the head of the flairs, which it defcended.
The body which caufed it, talked French
in a magifterial accent. After it had pro-
ceeded down flairs, I looked out of the win-
dow

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 203

dow, to fee it hTue from the houfe. There
did I behold, as I have fince found him out
to be, my lord's avant-coureur, incafed in the
greateft pair of jack boots, which ever ftruck
mortal eye. He had been fent before to
take an apartment for his lordfhip. He had
only a red waiftcoat on, girt with a fort
of French gilt belt, from which a hanger
depended. The people of this houfe, as well
as thofe of the adjoining habitation, (where
they drefs my dinner) together with a fwarm
of beggars, were gathered round about him.
He in the middle proudly eminent, feemed to
give laws to all. From time to time, he
walked two or three ileps backward and
forward. A lane was immediately made,
by the by-ftanders, for wherever he chofe to
pafs. The ftreet re-echoed with the percuf-
fion of his boots againft the {tones. At laft
however, having fixed every thing I fuppofe,
he remounted his horfe, which tho' of a
diminutive appearance, and feemingly very
unequal to the weight that preffed him, yet

urged

2o4 LETTERS FROM

urged by frequent fpurs, the effect of which
muft be considerably encreafed by the momen-
tum of the boots when in motion, departed
on a gallop. I imagine the man returned to
inform his mailer of his proceedings, and
conduct him to the houfe he had fixed for
him. I did not fee his lordfhip arrive, as I
was out making vifits at the time he came.
When I returned lafl night I found my flair-
cafe illuminated with many lamps, for I
ufed to be content with poking up my way
in the dark, but his lordfhip has done me
the favor, to light up the entrance to my
apartments. Upon my coming home this
morning I fent up my fervant to fee, whe-
ther he and his governor were at home.
He left two tickets with my name, fo that
this evening, or tomorrow morning, they
will probably, return me this ceremonial
vifit.

tET.

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 205

LETTER XXL

Rome, half an hour after 1 2, at noon,
Monday, June 1, 1761.

1 HE end of this month I mall fet off for
England, taking however, a little moun*
tainous air at Bibbiena in my way. His
lordfhip-and governor are removed to more
fpacious lodgings, as they juftly complained
of thofe over head being too fmall for
them.

They fay that Cardinal Paoluccrs coach-
man has been put into prifon this morning*
upon fufpicion of being guilty of the mur-
der of the three women. As the report
goes, he was carrying a pearl necklace to a
jeweller to fell. It was known by forne per-
fon or other to have belonged to one of
thofe women. Leave was aiked of his maf-

ter

o6 LETTERS FROM

ter the cardinal, to arreft him. It was given.
He was taken up. His livery was {tripped
off his back at the prifon door, and he is
now in fafe cuftody. This is the report of
the day.

On friday I went to Tivoli, where I lay
that night, and returned on faturday much
pleafed with my excurlion. Its ancient
name was Tibur, and the river Anio, tumb-
ling down the rocks, forms very picturefque
fcenes. I agree with Horace in liking it
better than Lacedemon, or Lariffa, tho' I
never faw either of thofe places.

Me nee tarn patiens Lacedaemon
Nee tarn LarifTa: percuflit campus opimae

Quam domus Albunice refonantis,
Et prasceps Anio et Tiburni lucus, et uda

Mobilibus pomaria nvis. Lib.!. Od. yii.

The lafl line is wonderfully exact, when
you fee the little cafcades, where the river
hops down, from rock to rock, through the

rich

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 207

rich fide of a hill. The fyharum coma , ano-
ther expreffion of the fame author, is alfo
equally defcriptive of the olive trees, which
grow in amazing plenty round about this
place, and are of fuch a fize, and their fmall
leaves fo interwoven, that they do not give
a bad idea of a hhaggy mane. Over Tivoh
hangs the pretty temple of the Sibyl, which
tho' fmall, is reckoned of perfect architec-
ture, but time has deflroyed a great part of
it. Beneath it the whole river falls down
many feet perpendicular, but this univerfal
gum is not near fo pretty, as the little falls
of water I have mentioned. On faturday'
we went to fee the ruins of Hadrian's villa,
which lie about three or four miles from
Tivoli. Thefe fcenes of former luxury arc
now the refort of all venemous animals,
ferpents, vipers, lizards, toads, &c. The
extent of the remains is fo vaft, that it
feems impofiible to be merely the villa of
that voluptuous prince. Bid your imagina-
tion reprefent to you, a fcattered confufion

of

2o8 LETTERS FROM

of venerable ruins, overgrown with mofs,
and interwoven with trees, and you have
fome faint idea of the place. But the owl
now reigns here inftead of the impious Anti-
nous, and the voice of luxury has given
place to the cries of thofe nocturnal birds.
Having fatisfied our curiofity, we returned
to dine at Tivoli, and in the afternoon des-
cended from the hills, and drove through
the low country to Rome.

Rome, 10 o'clock evening,
Tuefday, June 2, 1761.

I T is true what I told you of cardinal
Paolucci's coachman being put into prifon,
for the murder of the three women. As
foon as the fact wras commited many of the
neighbouring inhabitants, as I have already
told you, were confined. From thefe they
learnt who frequented the houfe. It was
found that this coachman had been there.
He had been godfather to one of the women's

children,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 209

children, but the child was now dead. Spies
were immediately fet at his heels, as well as
at thofe of every perfon, who had any con-
nection with the family, and who were not
already in prifon. With regard to fpies, I
do not think there are any cleverer than
thofe of Rome, or that any government has
better intelligence of the little things that
pafs in their fcate than this. The fpies ob-
ferved that this man, from being very poor
and opprefled with debts, appeared rather in
a better condition. He bought fome furni-
ture for the houfe, where his family lived.
He cloathed himfelf and family better. But
however* as he was a cardinal's coachman
thefe were not fufficient circumflances to
apprehend him. You can not imagine how
delicate the government is here of touching
a fervant, or any thing that belongs to car-
dinals or princes. However* at lafr. he went
to fell the pearl necklace I fpoke of yefter-
day. The fpies, who faw him with it in the
mop, and obferved that he left it there^ went
Vol. III. O and

aio LETTERS FROM

and informed the governor. The necklace
was carried to fome of the people who had
been arretted upon account of this affair, and
who knew it to belong to one of thefe wo-
men. The pope was acquainted with the
whole. They told him what fufpicions they
had againft the man". But he faid he would
not have them arreft a cardinal's coachman
without amoral certainty of his being guilty.
Orders were however given out, to appre-
hend him, and a letter was fent at the fame
time to cardinal Paolucci, who was, toge-
ther with his coachman, at his country houie
at Albano. As foon as the conftables and
bailiffs arrived at Albano, which is near fif-
teen miles from Rome, they fir ft arretted the
coachman, and then gave the governor's
letter to Paolucci. You may imagine he
could have no objection againft his coachman
being carried to jail for lo enormous crime.
Accordingly he was brought yefterday to
Rome, and yefterday evening confefied the
whole fact. His confeflion is as follows.

To

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 211

*' To the moft illuftrious and reverend the
*' lord governor of the pacific city in crimi*
** nal affairs*

" Rome, in the capital court concerning
" murder qualified with larceny and bur-
" glary^

" Againft
" John Albani of Rome, prifoner>

" Bettini notary*

tl The morning of the tenth of May lah%
" which was the feafl of whitfunday, the*
" following women were found dead in their
*' habitation viz*

" Francifca Dei, aged fixty years,

" Francifca Vetturini, aged fifty years*

*' Anna Dei, aged fixty years,

O % " They

in LETTERS FROM

" They were all three widows, the two
firfr. living together in their before men-
tioned habitation, which was frequented
likewife very much by the third, who ufed
to go there to do little fervices, being lif-
ter to the former of the two faid cohabi-
tants. Now, as it was believed that they had
been felonioufly murdered the preceding
night, in order to rob the houfe, the moll:
exael researches were made to find out the
author orauthors of this molt horrid crime.

" Finally however, cognition was had of

4 its having been probably perpetrated by John

' Albani, of fifty years of age, a Roman by

' birth, and coachman by profeffion,and who

' had been god-father to one of the children

' of Franciica Dei. He was accordingly ap-

' prehended in the city of Albano, by the offi-

' cers of juftice, on the morning of funday

1 lali, 31ft of the month of May, and being

' conveyed to Rome and there imprifoned,

' he clearly confefled the fact, as follows.

•« That

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 213

" That having known for many years the
<f above mentioned Francifca Dei, (lie at
" latt got him the place of poftilion with
" the matter that her huiband was then
" ferving as coachman, and that upon this
" their intimacy increafmg, he ttood god-
" father to a daughter the laid Francifca
" Dei had by her firft huiband. However,
" Francifca Dei's firft hufband dying, and
" fhe, upon his death, having changed her
" habitation, he had not had an opportunity
" of vihting her any more. He met her, hi-
" deed, from time to time in the ftreets,
" and knew that flie was married again to
tl a baker in Banchi (a part of Rome.)
" This fecond huiband of Francifca .Dei's
" died likewife, and left her in eafy circum-
" ftances. Although John Albahi had never
" been once in her houfe during all the
" time of her widowhood, and the life of
" her fecond huiband, patting, however,
" three or four months ago through Banchi,
" and feeing her at the window, me called
O 3 "to

2i4 LETTERS FROM

** to him, arid told him to come up flairs \
*'' informing him of that being her prefent
habitation, and mewing him the houfe.
After having feen every thing in it, he
went away, but returned to make her
a fecond viiit ten or twelve days before
Whitfunday. And laftly, as he was bur-
thened with debts, and did not know how
to maintain himfelf and family, confiiting
in a wife and two grown up daughters,
and a fon, he returned to her houfe on
friday, two days before Whitfunday, about
the Ave Maria, in order to beg her to
lend him a couple of zecchins, as he
knew (lie was in good circumftances.
The door was opened to him, upon his
knocking, by Francifca Vetturini. He
afked her whether her companion, Fran-
cifca Dei, w'as at home, for that he
wanted her to do him a fervice. Fran-
cifca Vetturini aniwered, that fhe was
not at home, and that fhe did not know
whether fhe would return that night-

Franciica.

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 215

u Francifca Vetturini told him, likewife,
" if he wanted money, that there were no
" hopes of his getting any, as her companion
" had none. He pretended that he did not
" want money, and afked her what time
" Francifca Dei would be at home the next
" morning. She faid that me would be at
" home all the morning, but that he had
" better return in the evening. He then
" went away. The next morning, the day
" before Whitfunday, his neceffity prefling
" him, he got up early, and refolved to
" return to the houfe, and afk Francifca
" Dei to lend him the two zecchins, (tho*
Francifca Vetturini had denied her, he
probably had a fufpicion that me was
at home the evening before,) and in caie
" he found only one of the women in the
" houte, he relolved to murder her, and
" take what lie wanted of himfelf. In fact,
*6 after having armed himfelf with a marp
ii pointed knife fixed into the handle, and
" after having provided in his matter's ftable

O4 ts a thick-

ai6 LETTERS FROM

" a thick ftrong flick or club, which he hid
" under his livery cloak, he went thus deli-
" berately about eleven o'clock" (fix o'clock
in the morning, according to our way of
reckoning,) " to the houfe. He rung the
" bell upon being arrived at it. Francifca
" Vetturini, the companion of Francifca
" Dei, opened the door as foon as me faw
'* who it was, and told him that Francifca
" Dei was not at home, and had not re*
" turned home all night, as fhe had told
" him. They talked together lb me time,
" and at laft Francifca Vetturini turning
*' about as if me was going into the kitchen,
" he took this opportunity of giving her
" a blow upon the head with his club or
" bludgeon, which immediately caufed her
" to fall down upon the ground dunned-
il He here gave her frefh blows' with his
<e club, and bolted the flreet door. But
" while he was doing this, he heard a
*' woman fcreaming in another room. Upon
if which he immediately ran into it, where

f1 he

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 217

'*. he law Francifca Dei fitting up in her
" bed, with only a fhift and bed-gown on.
" He immediately applied his club to her
'• temples, which laid her flat upon the
" bed ; after having reiterated his blows,
" he pulled out his knife, and cutting her
" throat, killed her. He returned into the
" room where he had left Francifca Vettu-
" rini {tunned upon the floor, and who was
" beginning to move a little, and cut her
" throat likewife with the fame knife. Af-
" ter he had done this, he wiped his hands,
" which were ail bloody, with the corner
" of one of the meets belonging to the bed
" upon which Francifca Dei's corpfe lay, and
" began rummaging the drawers of her
" kneeling deik, which flood by the bed-fide."
(Thefe kneeling deiks are very common in
Roman catholic countries, with four drawers
in them.) " Out of the firfl drawer he took
" in hafte eighteen or twenty pauls, (nine
or ten (hillings,) " two pearl necklaces of
" three rows of pearls each, two fmall

rofaries

2i3 LETTERS FROM

rofaries of lefler pearls, three folitaires
for women, with crones pendent from
them ftudded with diamonds, three dia-
mond rings, a pair of ear-rings, with
three pearls each, leaving every thing
elie in the drawers in confufion ; in which
ftate they were found by the officers of
juftice when they made their fearch.
He Hole out of the fecond drawer nine
iilver lpoons, and nine plain filver forks.
But while he was fearching the other
drawers to find out where the money
was hid, he heard the ftreet door bell
ring feveral times. He went on tip-toe
to fee through the key- hole who it
was, and finding it was a woman, he
refolved to open the door, and kill her
like wife, in order that he might not be
difcovered. After having opened the
door, he faw it was one Anna Dei, who
ufed to come and do lervices, and dine
in the houfe of the two old women,
being fitter of Francifca Dei. As (he

knew

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 219

w knew that he now and then ufed to come
" to the houfe, (he had not the leaft douht
'* of any thing, hut entered immediately,
f< in order to go through the pafTage that
" led to Francifca Dei's room. He, upon
" her being entered, directly fhut the ftreet
*; door, and followed her with the aforefaid
" club, and at the door of Francifca Dei's
" bed-chamber, gave her three or four
" blows, till, being fallen upon the ground,
" he cut her throat likewife. However, as
" me ftruggled much, he was obliged to
" attempt it with his knife feveral times
" before he compleated the horrid act. After
" this third murder, he was too much con-
" fufed to make any farther fearch in the
" houfe of thele unhappy women ; and as
" foon as he had warned his hands a fecond
<* time in a bowl full of water in the kitchen,
*' went away, pulling the ftreet door after
" him, which mut with a latch. He immc-
*' diately went to a feller at fecond- hand's
f( fhop (like our merchants, in Rag Fair or

Monmouth

220 LETTERS FROM

" Monmouth Street,) in St. Barbara's Lane,
"where, by means of a woman, he got
" pawned at the mount the necklace of
" fmalleft pearls in three rows, receiving
" for his pawn forty crowns," (pretty near
the fame as Englifh crowns,) " and the
ie ticket of the mount for the receipt of the
" necklace.

The nature of what they call the mount
in Italy is as follows. Imagine the govern-
ment to keep a great pawnbroker's mop at
the intereft of fix per cent. This is in a
few words explaining to you what is meant
by the mount. The idea would rather make
us laugh in England, if his majefty was to
become a pawnbroker. But it is not a bad
fcheme to raife money, and is introduced
in all the governments of Italy. Ifnoper-
ion appears within the fpace of three years,
the pawn is forfeited, and publicly fold.
In lTiort, every thing is nearly the fame as
at, a common pawnbroker's. At lealt, this

is

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 221

is raifing money without burthening the
public, by the voluntary contributions of the
people, and as all other perfons are prohi-
bited from exercifing that bufinefs, thefe
cities are freed from that pefl of other great
towns, the pawnbrokers.

" John Albani afterwards went to the
" fat woman, who fells things at fecond-
" hand in the Smith's Lane, and by her
f* means pawned nine forks and fpoons for
" thirty crowns, which fhe gave him to-
" gether with the ticket of the mount for
" the receipt of the goods. Before he re-
'* turned home, he threw the knife with
" which he had murdered the women into
" a fink there is in the fquare belonging
" to the Roman college near St. Martha's.
" As foon as he came home he burnt the
0 flick or club.

" Twelve days afterwards he went to the

" feller at fecond-hand that lives at St.

2 Andrew

1122 LETTERS FROM

" Andrew della Valle, and brought hini
•' one of the crofTes and a pair of ear-rings
" to pawn for him at the mount, which
u the feller at fecond-hand did; the firfr.
" for ten crowns thirty baioccs, and the
" fecond for feven crowns' twenty baioccs ;
" and two or three days afterwards he went
*' to another fellers at fecond-hand who
" lives near the mount, and made him
" pawn for him another crofs and a ring
" for {even crowns fifty baioccs; after*
" wards returning to the feller at fecond*
Cc hand that lives at St. Andrew della Valle,
*' he fold him one of the rows of the pearl
" necklace, with the largeft pearls, for
M fifty crowns, pretending to be fent by
u the owner in order to fell them, and that
" he was to have a zecchin if he fold them
" well. The other two rows of pearls of
*' that necklace, together with the little
" rofaries of pearls, and the other crofTes
" and rings, as well as the five tickets of
" the mount, wer e found in his houfe, in

■« the

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 223

** the fearch made there by the officers of

" juftice upon his being apprehended. The

" money received from thefe pawns he had

.* partly fpent in paying different debts of

" his, which he particularizes, partly to

" provide for what his family and himfelf

" wanted, and the reft was found by the

'* officers of juftice in their fearch.

" This confeffion with regard to the mur-
" der remains verified, firft, by the recog-
<e nition of the dead bodies, upon which
" the following wounds were found.

" Wounds found upon the corpfe of
" Francifca Vetturini.

" Firfr, a wound in her throat, with
" recilion of the right hand jugular vein,
" penetrating quite to the wind-pipe, done
" by an inftrument incident and perforant.
" Secondly, a wound upon her head, with
" laceration of the integuments, made by

" repeated

£24

LETTERS FROM

• repeated flrokes, and which beginning

' from the left fide of the frontal bone, was

6 extended quite to the coronal future, with

' fracture of the fcull, and which pene-

i trated fo far as even to fcatter about the

c matter of the brain, all done by repeated

6 ftrokes of an inflrument incident and

' lacerant.

" Wounds found upon the corpfe of Fran-
** cifca Dei.

** Firft, a wound in her throat, with
recifion of the carotis, and laceration of
all the contiguous vafes and mufcles,
caufed by an inflrument incident and
lacerant. Secondly, one in her forehead,
caufed by an inflrument incident and
perforant. Thirdly, one above her left
eye, by an inflrument incident and per-
forant. Fourthly, one near the faid eye,
made by an inflrument incident and per-
forant. Fifthly, one upon the eye-brow

" of

Italy, germanj, &c. 11$

** of the right eye, made likewife by an
" innrumcnt incident and perforant. Sixthly,
" one upon the left temple, with laceration
u of the integuments and entire fracture
w of the bone, till part of the matter of
" the brain came out, made by an inftru-
" ment incident and lacerant. Seventhly,
" one near the faid temple, with fracture
" of the lkull quite to the matter of the
" brain, made by an inftrument incident
" and lacerant. Eighthly, one repeated in
" the fame place by an inurnment incident
" and lacerant. Ninthly, one near the fame
" place, made by the fame infrrument.
" Tenthly, one on the right-hand fide of the
" hinder part of the head, made likewife
" by an inftrument incident and lacerant.

" Wounds found upon the corpfe of
" Anna Dei.

" Firft, a wound in her throat upon the

" epiglotis, made by an infrrument incident

Vol, III. P " and

a-6 LETTERS FROM

" and perforant. Secondly, one in the left
" jugular vein. Thirdly, one near the
" carotis on the fame fide. Fourthly, one
" on the right hand fide near the jugular
" vein. Fifthly, one near the carotis ; all
" made by an inftrument incident and per-
" forant, and penetrating to the wind-pipe.
" Sixthly, one upon the bridge of the nofe.
'* Seventhly, one above the left eye. Eighthly,
" one upon the frontal bone, where the hair
" begins to grow. Ninthly, one on the
" other fide likewife, where the hair begins
" to grow. Tenthly, one on the beginning
" of the coronal future ; all made by an
" inftrument lacerant and incident. Ele-
" venthly, one in the palm of her left
" hand, made by an inftrument incident
" and perforant.

The tranflation of thefe wounds, as de-
fcribed by the furgeons, may have tired and
fhocked you, befides, I have not been able
to tranflate them well, as I do not know

the

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 217

the proper technical terms of furgery. But
to continue.

" Notwithflanding part of the above men-
" tioned wounds were adjudged by the
" learned furgeons to have been caufed by
" an initrument incident and lacerant, yet,
*S upon their being juridically examined
** a fecond time, by the reafons there given,
"' they do not exclude their having poffibly
" been caufed by an inftrument contundent
*c> and lacerant, as a club or flick, and in
" part the caufe of the deaths of thefe
*' unhappy women.

" The confeffion with regard to the mur-
** der remains verified, fecondly, by the
*' dead bodies being found in the fame pofi-
" tion as defcribed by the priibnei-, with
ct the meet and bowl of water ftained with
" blood.

P 2 " Thirdly,

428 LETTERS FROM

" Thirdly, by the acquaintance he had
" with the three deceafed women, as re-
" counted by himfelf, and verified by divers
*' witnefles, which gave him an eafy entrance
" into the houfe, when, on the contrary,
" they were very cautious of opening the
" door to any perfon elfe, till they knew
" the quality of him that demanded ad-
*' miffion.

" The confeffion with regard to the rob-
*' bery remains verified, firfr., from the pre*
" exiilence and deficiency of the before
" mentioned ftolen goods, according to the
" depofition of various witnefles : (the wit-
nefles named),

" Secondly, from the inciting caufe to
" commit this robbery, deduced from the
*e prifoner's extreme poverty, confefled by
" himfelf, and proved by various witnefles :
(witnefles named) .

a

Thirdly,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 229

" Thirdly, by the money fpent ultra vires,
" for he paid many debts with which he was
" burthened, as he himfelf confeffed, and
" which is verified rby the creditors them-
V felves. (The creditors named.)

" And fourthly and laftly, the confemon
'* with regard to the robbery remains veri-
1( fled by the fale of one of the rows of
" pearls to the feller of fecoixd hand things
" at St. Andrew della Valle, according to
11 the depofition of the fame, and by the
" five tickets of the mount, found in the
" prifoner's houfe, as well as the remainder
ie of the flolen goods, with part of the mo-
" ney received upon thofe that were pawned,
tl and the goods were proved to be the fame
ei the unhappy women had in their pofleffion
ft by the before mentioned witnefles, and the
" fellers at fecond-hand depofed upon oath,
<e that they pawned for the prifoner the
M above mentioned things, &c. &c. &c.

P 3 Wednefday,

LETTERS FROM

Wednefday, June 3, 1761.
1 o'clock in the afternoon.

THE governor was prefent yefterday
evening at a converfaiioney or affembly, where
I went. He faid that John Albani had made
him two requefts. The one was to have a
particular confeffor, and the other to have
more to eat. " I know, faid he, I am to die
" in a fhort time. At leafl feed me well
" while I live." And yet the government
allows prifoners in jail nine pence a day,
but he was not contented with that fum.
The governor fays, he believes no prifoners
have fo much allowed them as they have
here. I could not anfwer him yes or no,
with regard to ours, tho' I believe they live
but poorly, if they have not fomething of
their own. They fay Albani will be ex-
ecuted in about a fortnight. His death is to
be rnazzolation^ an Italian word which means,
that he is frfl to be knocked down with a

mallet

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 23

mallet like an ox, and then have his throat
cut. Indeed it is the very fame fate he made
the poor women fuffer. It is an uncommon
punimment here at Rome, and only for great
crimes. They generally hang as we do*
They never break upon the wheel, any
more than in Great Britain. The govern-
ment, with regard to criminal proceedings,
js certainly much too mild here.

Rome, i o'clock afternoon,
Thurfday, June 4, 1761.

A S a proof of the great mildnefs, or
rather relaxation of this government with
regard to criminal affairs, I will bring you
an example, which happened yefterday, and
of which my fervant Sebaftian was witnefs.
It happened in Piazza Navona. As he was
paffing through it about five o'clock in the
afternoon, ' he faw two men quarrelling.
One flung a ftone at the other, which hit
him upon the breaft. He who had receive4

P 4 the

234 LETTERS FROM

the blow went up to the other, collared
him with his left hand, and with his right
plunged his knife thrice into him. This he
did with all the apparent phlegm and tran-
quillity in the world. He then walked at
leifure to the fteps before St. Agnes' s church,
where he could not be apprehended, and
patrolled up and down them with as much
quiet as if he had been taking a contempla-
tive walk. The other in the mean time
began crying out and mewing his wounds,
He had one in his arm, another in his breaft,
but Sebaftian did not fee where the third
{truck. He drew up the fhirt of his wonnded
arm, which was pouring out blood. He
was only in a waiftcoat. He put his hand
like wife many times upon the wound in
his breaft, which fried blood top, but in lefs
quantity, and every time he touched it,
lie buifl out into tears afrefh. Sebaftian, who
was in company with another fervant, then
came away. It is dangerous in this coun^
try to be flaying where broils are. For

when

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 233

when the officers of juftice come, they put
all prefent into jail, fome as accomplices and
others as witnefTes, The criminal, who gene-p
rally takes refuge in a church, is the only
perfon that can not be touched^ Indeed they
difcharge thofe who are not guilty, after
fome days imprifonment, but flill, it is hard
to be fent into confinement and endure all
the hardships of it, tho' for ever fo ihort a
time.

There is nothing farther material about
the coachman. It feems he had been a but-
cher, fo that he was practiced in the art of
killing. He has not only demanded to eat
better, but to have a better bed during the
little time he is to live. It feems he went
up flairs and marked the door of the people
that lived over the rooms where the women
were murdered, with blood, in order that
the fufpicion of the murder might fall upon
them. He fays he was fo confufed, that he
had very little fear about him, except of fee-
ing

234 LETTERS FROM

ing what he had done. They report that he
has been guilty of other crimes. I think
I fhould make an excellent ordinary of New-
gate. When I return to England I believe I
(hall take orders, and you muft get me pro*
moted to that poll.

L E T-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 13$

LETTER XXII.

Rome, five o'clock afternoon,
Saturday, June 6, 1761.

x"j- S I think you like to fee nature unful-
lied, I will tranflate you a letter of Sebaf?
tian to his patron in Tufcany. As he is
gone out to buy me a fword-knot, I have time
to copy it. He has given it me unfealed to
inclofe in one of mine. You may think it
a breach of trull: to read a fervant's letter,
but as they do not contain plots againft the
ftate, J hope it is a crime that may be par-
doned. I will endeavour to preferve the
ftyle in the tranflation. It is as follows.

Rome, June 6, 1761.

<f My deareft fir,
ft You can not imagine the pleafure I had,

" in

236 LETTERS FROM

t( in receiving a letter from you. I am as
" glad as poffibly can be, to hear you be
" well in health and all your good family.
" Heaven p refer ve you fo. I, thank heaven,
66 am well. So is Signor Chriftopher, (mean-
" ing me,) heaven preferve him. Where we
** live is very good air. It makes one eat a
" great deal. But I keeps to the rule you
" gave me, when I left Bibbiena. I eats as
*' little as I poiTibly can. As for chawing
0 rheubarb, I does not think I have occafion
" at prefent for it. If I finds any thing,
" if I finds any opprefiion upon my ft'omach
" I will begin chawing it immediately. If
*' I be always as I be now I am content. I
" have feen a great many fine things here at
" Rome, fine palaces, and fine churches,
" For news at Rome, all I can tell you is,
*' that, as they tell me, a coachman is to be
" executed next week. He was the coach-
" man of a cardinal. Killed three women.
'* And this happened the day before whit*
" funday. Now he goes that morning to
i " her

Si

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 237

her houfei having been godfather to her
. child, and he gives her the good morrow
i( with killing her ; and this was not enough,
" he cut the throat of another woman me
" had in the houfe; and when he had done
" all this, he began rummaging the houfe, to
" carry away what he liked bell:. Now
" while he was doing this fome body knock-
" ed at the door ; now this was another wo-
•* man that came in fearch of death, and he
46 heard this knocking, and fo he looked and.
" faw it was a woman, a friend of his, and
" fo for fear of being found out, he killed
•* her too ; and he has fince been found out,
" and he is now in jail. I was going out a
•• walking the day after the proceflion of the
" Corpus Domini, and a quarrel fell out
" between a bailiff and another coachman
V of one of thefe cardinals, but I do not
" know what his name be. And fo thefe
** gave one another blows with iticks, and
" wounds with a knife. And all this hap-
u pened near me, but I runs away as quick

" as

a3S LETTERS FROM

<e as I could, gets into a houfe. For yoii
cc know the faying rumores fugghe, and I
" likes to fleep in a whole Ikin. I does not
*' love quarrels. And three or four days
ci ago I was in Piazza Navonaj and I was
" looking at the great fine fountain there>
*' and I fees a man take a flint that lay at
" my feet, and fo he flings it at another,
" and fo the other comes to this that was
" {landing fo juft clofe by me, and fo he
" gives him three blows with his knife.
<c You may imagine what a terrible fright I
" mufl be in. I trembled like an afpen
" leaf, and my legs were making under me,
" as if they had been reeds, and thefe fine
" things happen here every now and then.
*' And then hear how light handed they be.
*' Well ! I would never have believed it,
lt They Hole two handkerchiefs out of my
" pocket, that were worth two pauls, (a
milling,) in one morning. I puts my
" hand into one pocket, and there was no
<' handkerchief. I puts my hand into t'other

" pocket,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 139

" pocket, and there was no handkerchief
" neither ; and fo you fee one rauft take care
" here, and this is the fine news of this
" town. I fupplicate you to give my ref-
" peels to all the good family from me.
" And when you write to fignor mafter of
" your children, tell him that I did write to
<c him, but as how, that he has never wrote
" to me. And pray my refpe&s to him,
" and I pay the fame to your moft illuf-
" trious fignorfhip. And I remain heartily
" deiirous of your orders, and kiffing your
" hand till death, &c.

" Pray be fo good to falute Betty and
" Angelo, and tell the young ladies I will
(t bring them all the rofaries and things.
" Excufe my boldnefs, but be fo good to
" fend the inclofed to Signor Domenico.'*

This is Scbaftian's letter, in which, as I
faid before, you may fee nature undifguifed.
Coming from the country into a great town,
the poor fellow finds himfelf loft in it.

LET-

*40 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XXIIL

Rome, five o'clock in the afternoon^
Tuefday, June 9, 1761.

Xl_ A V I N G given you the confeffion of
John Albani, you mall now have the defence
his counfel made for him* You may think
it curious to hear talk of defence, when a
man has confefled himfelf guilty. It is fo,
but notwithstanding this, John Albani was
defended after his confeffion by Jofeph Afce-
volini, advocate for the poor. There is this
office of advocate for the poor in all the
courts of juftice in Italy. It is a lawyer paid
by the government, to be counfel for the
prifoners* Blum, England, land of liberty,
not to have a fimilar charitable provifion in
thy ifland. In vain is it faid, the judge is to
be counfel for the prifoner. The judge can
not frequent jails, and have private inter-
views

ITALY, GERMANY, &c 241

views with the malefactors, and teach them
what to conceal, and what to bring out in
evidence. Nay, do not I fee the very con-
trary, that the government pays a man to be
counfel for the crown, or counfel againft
the prifoner ? And mall poor unhappy offend-
ers enjoy lefs privileges on Britiih ground,
than where we fay tyranny and oppreffion
rule ? Thefe are, however, too ftrong words
for a monarchical government. Blufh then,
I fay again, my native country, and own,
that tho' thy fubects in general enjoy advan-
tages beyond thofe of other nations, yet in
this particular Italy triumphs. With regard
to the advocate for the poor's defence of
John Albani, after his having confeifed the
crime, it is as follows. It is addreffed to the
fupreme court of judicature of Rome. After
having repeated the confeffion, it continues
thus.

" In confequence of the foregoing con-
.*' feffion, fo faid to be verified. in the greatefl
Vol. Ill, Q^ « par

*4* LETTERS- FROM

* part of its circum fiances, which we fhail
' confider hereafter, the mod vigilant ex-
' chequer (fifcus in latin) maintains, that
■ the prifoner John Albani having confeffed
' the three before mentioned murders, with
4 the undeniable and aggravating circum-

* fiances of treachery and robbery, ought
4 with diligence to be configned to the ex-
' ecutioner, to fatisfy injured jjuflice by a
c public death, in order to deter people, by
' his example, from fimilar excefies for the
' future.

" We however, tho' flreightened in time,
" the procefs having only been consigned to
" us yeflerday, friday 5th June, fo that we
'* mufl form the prefent defence to day, fa-
'* turday 6th, in order that it may be printed
" to morrow, fun day the 7th, to be diflributed
" the day after, monday the 8th, the day
" preceding the determination of this caufe,
" we, I fay, tho' thus flreightened in time,
" have not in the leafl loft our courage,

. " neither

ITALY; GERMAN Y3 &c. 243

lt neither from the aforefaid ccnfefliori, nor
" from the vulgar axiom, " Nan * tft conjcjji
" cauja tuenda m';"and on the other hand we
" confider, with reafon, the clemency of our
" moft facred prince, who has not only en-
" trufted us with the defence of thofe who
" are innocent, ut f. a c alumni a liber entur9
*' but has particularly charged us with the
" protection of the guilty, Ne J plus a1 quo ct
" ultra crepldam mulclcniur.

" We even nope with confidence from
<c what we fhall fay, notwithftanding the
si before mentioned confeffion of the prifo-
" ner, that this fupreme tribunal, fo fall of
" juftice and equity, and who in the exami-
u nation of the moil horrid mifdemeanours,

* The caufe of a criminal who has confeffed is not to
be defended.

-j- That they may be freed from calumny.

t That they may not be puniihed beyond the mark
which j 11 Rice requires.

Qa ' ** irafcitur

244 LETTERS FROM

u irafchur * duntaxat crimlnl fed non reo, will
*' fave the unhappy prifoner from capital
•* punimment, as we alfo humbly fupplicatc
u in his name.

" There is no doubt, but that the confef-
" fion of a prifoner, when fufpecled of Jug-
u gefti°n and fubornation, or when it is not
" verified by the generical proof of the crime,
<c is not to be in the leafl regarded, as the
tl following authors obferve, with regard to
" fuggeftive confeffion ; Bomus de exam.
*' reorum, num. 13, Cartar de interroga-
u tione reorum, lib. 2 : cap. 1, num. 53, et
" num, 581, and Farinacci talks learnedly
" upon this matter in his 81 ft queftion, from
" num. 309, to num. 313, as well as Ver-
" miglioli in his criminal council 18, num.
" 19, and Conciol. in his alleg. 61, num. 25,
M and in his criminal refolut. word confef-
<c fion, refolut. 23, num. 1, and with regard
" to a confeffion not verified by the fpecific

* Bears enmity to the crime alone, and not to the cri*

jxupal.

" circumftances

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 24$

€t circumftances of the crime, the following
" authors maintain its having no weight."
(After having mentioned twenty authors,)
** Conciol. under the word confeffion refoL
" 18, num. 1 fays, "In order that a con-
" feffion may have its effect againfl the
t( confeflbr, it mud be verified in all the
circumftances and qualifications confeffed
by the prifoner, whether the confeffion be
fpontaneous or forced by torments.'* And
Farrinacci fays, this is the common opi-
nion of the learned, whom Giovagnoni,
<c Guazzini, &c. follow ; and Vermiglioli
u in his con. 18, num. 18, lays, " This
€t principally takes place when thofe who
•* have confeffed, declare, for example, that
u certain blows were given upon the back
fe part of the head with an iron bar, and yet
" this circumftance as well as others can not
" be verified, as it is necejfary theyjlmdd be for
" a confeffion to have force to the detriment of the
" confeflbr" &c. Now this undoubtedly holds
J* good, with regard to the punifhing of a de-
Q^ " linquent

246 LETTERS FROM

i( linquent capitally, as in the prefent cafe,
" upon the authority of a confeffion fo much
" to be criticifed as this ; for according to
" the maxim, Nemo * eft dominus membrorum
<e fuorem, concerning which the following
* authors, &c. Our provident laws there-
4i fore, which unite juftice with mercy, only
" regard in capital punifhments, be the cafe
Cf what it may in others, that clear, true and
u fincere confeffion, which is not fubjecl: to
'• any criticifm intrinfical or extrinfical,
*f according to the divifion the following au-
" thors make, &c. and Concilioli, under
" the word confeffion fays, that a confeffion,
*' to be* called certain, muft be made con-
" cerning a fact which is certain, with a
" certain place, time, and other circum-
*4 fiances expreffed, otherwife it is of no
" force, as the following authors confirm,
M &c."

f No perfon has power over his own life.

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. *47

Our author having laid down thefe premif-
fes, goes on to prove John Atbani's confef-
fion not to be valid upon two reafons, (< fir ft
" of all becaufe it is fuggefthe, and fecondly,
u beeaufe it does no"t agree with the circum*
" fiances of the cnme." The latter reafon
you will underftand, the firft perhaps may
want fome explanation. But the worft is,
I do not know whether I am able to explain
it to you, however, I will try. By the word
fuggcjlion, we mean in this country any fign, or
hint, or other aft caufing or leading the cri-
minal to confefs what otherwife he might
not have done. For example. A judge can
not in the middle of an examination afk the
criminal abruptly, what he did in fuch a
place fuch a day, becaufe the criminal might
poffibly forget himfelf, and thinking to ex-
cufe what he did there, confefs at the fame
time that he was fuch a day in fuch a place.
I will give you a fecond example, taken from
the prefent facl, which is what the advocate
for the poor is going to build his firft defence
0^4 upon.

*4* LETTERS FROM

upon. When John Albani was firft taken up,
he denied the fac"t ; but the judges carrying
him into his own houfe, and making a gene-
ral fearch in his prefence, he afterwards con-
fefled it. This, fays the advocate for the
poor, was not a&ing legally, for his firft
denial being confuted by things found in his
houfe contradictory to what he had faid, it
induced him to a confeffion. They had afked
him what there was in his drawers ; he had
replied, " three tickets of the mount ;" they
found five, and fo on in many other things.
This is what the Italians mean byfuggejlhc
interrogations, which are not permitted in
thefe courts of juftice. But they make ufe
of tortures to extort confeffion, which are
worfe. You mull: not however, think that
thefe torments are ufed arbitrarily. There
mull: be a certain degree of convi&ion, before
they are applied. The kind of torture they
generally inflict is the cord, which is fufpend-
ing a man in the air by his hands, which
are tied behind him. Sure, with regard to

this,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 249

this, England triumphs over Italy. Is it not
more humane to try to get at the truth by
artful examination than by tortures ? Not
that a perfon when forced by pain can, tho'
innocent, confefs himfelf guilty, as is ima-
gined in England, for they expect the con-
feffion to be verified in every one of its cir-
cumftances ; befides, a criminal is always
taken down from the rack before he begins
to confefs. But to leave my remarks, and
continue the advocate for the poor's defence.

*' However, paffing over the before men-
" tioned undoubted theories to come to our
" prefent cafe, it rnufr. be granted, that the
" prifoner conflantly denied the fact in his
" firft examination of the 31ft May, confef-
" ling only to have received the things pawn-
*' ed from a man in a livery coat, and whom
" he knew only by fight, and for whom he
'* went to the mount, and received the mo-
** ney for the aforefaid pawns with three
*' tickets of the mount. The money he faid

" he

45°

LETTERS FROM

<f he gave the man in the livery coat, and
" that the three tickets were at his houfe.

" Nor can it be denied that immediately
" after this examination, a general perqui-
€C fition was made in his houfe and in his
u prefence, and that befides the three tickets
*' of the mount which the prifoner had con-
'* feffed to have there, two others were
H found, with goods belonging to the un-
" happy deceafed women.

" Nor can it be denied that this perqurfi-
<f tion, made according to our opinion citra *
" neceffitatemy in the prefence of the prifoner,
" (as the exchequer could have made it le-
u gaily by witneffes, and then in due time
**■ have contefted^it to the prifoner, as the
'* moft learned prelate of the exchequer
** clearly tells us, in his criminal infrruc-
*' tions, where he never mentions the pre-

£ Without neceflity,

" fence

ITALY, GERMANY, Src. a§x

fence of the prifoner, cap. 6, num. 126,
and fol. f. and cap. 9, from num. 76 to
fol. g.) was the fole and precife caufe
of his confeflion the enfuing morning ;
in which he has accounted as well for
the five tickets found in his houfe {which
five tickets , you, fir, found in my houfe yejler day
in my kneeling dejk. Procefs, fol. 217) as
likewife for the goods flolen from the
unhappy women, found likewife in the
prifoner' s houfe. {And the refi of the goods
I fole, which I had put into the kneeling defk
at home, you, fir, found them there in my
prefence, and in that of the witnejfes. Procefs,
fol. 218.)

" Now if fuggefUon is lawfully verified,
66 either when the judge queftions the pri-
" foner concerning the particular circum-
(( fiances and qualities of the crime com-
" mitted ; verb. gr. Whether he killed
" John' an Oakes (Titus) on fuch a day, in
" fuch a place, wounding him in his breair.
y with a fword, knife, or other infh-ument,

" according

<l$z LETTERS FROM

" according to the precife terms of De Ange-*

** lis, &c. with whom agree Vermiglioli, &c.

" or when the judge indicates to a negative

" prifoner the particular arguments of the

*' crime he is accufed of, fee Adden, &c.

** and Farinacci, &c. which latter fays, that

** a judge, to avoid fuggeftion, ought not

" even to read to the prifoner the depofl-

" tions of the witneffes, as alfo Chartar,

" &c. &c. Now this being the cafe, what

te greater fugge/tion can there be than what

" was caufed by the fituation of the pri-

" foner upon feeing his houfe fearched before

" his eyes, and two tickets of the mount

" found in it, which he had not confeffed,

" befides other things belonging to the un-

** happy women, which he had likewife

<6 paffed over in filence. He muft then,

" with reafon, imagine that thefe things be-

*' ing found in his defk, proved the falfity of

" his firft affertions, and perfuaded the judge

" of his being guilty, now Burfatti, &c, hold

** it as Juggejiion in whatever manner his

I crime

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. is$

" crime is notified to a negative delinquent,
m as alfo Amen, &c.

" And, in fact, the words of the prifon-
4t er's fecond confeffion above related, and
" the fhort interval of a few hours from his
tc firft negative to his fecond affirmative
" confeffion, fufficiently prove that he was
*' ftruck with the judicial perquifition made
" in his prefence, and finding himfelf dif-
" covered, and almoft convi&ed, he refolved
*' to confefs what he had firmly denied but
" a few hours before the judicial perquifi-
** tion.

" From hence, therefore, no perfon cart
*c deny this confeffion to be fuggeftive, and
w as fuch void of weight, Vermiglioli, &c.
** efpecially fo as to deliver the confefTor
"•' to capital punifhment, Cyriac, &c.

" Now if the fecond confeffion of our
•' prifoner is not to be regarded, (6 as to

(i deliver

<t$4 LETTERS F R OM

" deliver him up to capital punifhment, »
*' being, with foundation, fufpecled of fug-
" geftion, which we have hitherto been
cl proving, much lefs ought it to be re-
" garded, as it is not at all verified, but even
" contradicted by the circumftances of the
" crime.

si This truth will be manifefted by call-
" ing to memory, that the prifoner fays in
" his confeffion, that he killed the three
" unfortunate women with a flick or club,
" and a knife. Now, on the contrary, the
" fifcal furgeon, Francis Pignotti, does not
" make the leafl mention of an inftrument
*' contundent and lacerant, fuch as is a flick
" or club, but excluding that abfolutely,
" fays, and repeats with confidence feveral
" times, that the wounds found upon the
" before mentioned three bodies wTere made
" by two different inftruments, one incident
" and perforant, and the other incident and
*f lacerant, as may be feen above, &c.

" Befides

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. i$s

" Befides this, the prifoner confeffes to
a have given three blows with his club upon
*' the head of Francifca Dei, and a cut with
" his knife when he cut her throat, fo that
u according to the foregoing confeffion, four
" wounds ought to have been found upon
" the body of the aforefaid Francifca. On the
*' contrary, the learned furgeon found ten,
" fix made by an inftrument incident and
" lacerant, and four by an inftrument in-
*■* cident and perforant, as procefs, fo. 10 to
" 14. Three wounds ought to have been
" found upon the body of Francifca Vettu-
" rini, two upon her head, and another
" in her throat, as the prifoner confeffed
*' to have given her two blows with his
" ftick upon the hinder part of her head, and
" then cut her throat : (procefs, &c.) But
" the learned furgeon mitius agendo * with
" the body of the aforefaid Francifca Vet-
61 turini, found only two wounds upon it,

* A&ing more mildly.

" one

aS6 LETTERS FROM

" one made by an inftrument incident and
u lacerant, and the other by an inftrument
" incident and perforant, according to pro-
" cefs, &c.

M And finally, the body of Anna Dei,
" whom he killed the third, ought at moll
*' to have had three or four wounds upon
" the head, and fome others towards the
" throat, as the prifoner confeffes to have
«c given the faid Anna Dei three or four
" blows upon her head behind, and different
** wounds with his knife towards her throat.
" (Proc. &c.) But the learned furgeon
" is more liberal with the body of the un-
** happy widow, and finds eleven wounds
" upon it, between thofe upon the head and
" the throat, declaring that fix of them
** proceeded from an inftrument incident
" and perforant, and the other five from an
" inftrument incident and lacerant, as may
*' be feen, &c.

" Before

Italy, Germany, &c. 157

Before I go on I will make a remark. I
think what the advocate for the poor fays
with regard to the wounds received, does
not agree with the lift I have already given
you of thdfe wounds. However, this does
not caft any blemifh upon the trial, for, as
I have received it piece-meal, and it came
to me through very different hands, the text
may have been corrupted. It is difficult to
get thefc trials, as they are not made public
as with us. I was forced to get part of
it copied out in a hurry by one friend, and
part by another. As each has abridged things
according to their inclination, it is no won-
der if there is fome difference. The defence
goes on thus*

*' In the foregoing irreconcilable contra-
u diction then, between the circumftances of
M the crime and the confeffion of the pri-
*' foner, which of thefe two proceedings
•* ought to prevail ? If we are to have
" regard to the circumftances, in that cafe

Vol. III. R " I an-

s5S . LETTERS FROM

I anfwer, that the prifoner's confeflion
being manifeflly contradictory to many
fubftantial circumftances regarding the
aforefaid crime, it can not have an
effect againfr. him fhong enough to
deliver him over to the hands of the
hangman, * ad expiandum morte naturali
crimen, and this is corroborated by the
clear teftimony of the foregoing authors,
&c.

" If, on the other hand, we ought to
" regard the confeflion of the prifoner, in
" this cafe with courage I anfwer, that this,
" being void of the indifpenfibly necefTary
" verification of the circumflances, is ren-
** dered entirely invalid, and ought to be
" torn into the fmalleft pieces, as the fol-
*' lowing authors clearly, excellently, and
" unanimoufly maintain in favor of a pri-
" foner, who has confefTed himfelf guilty,

* To expiate his crime by death.

" but

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. ' 159

u but whofe confemon does not agree with
*' the circumftances of the facts, &c. &c.

" The fagacious exchequer was confcious
of the foregoing infuperable difficulty, and
has attempted to remedy it in the beft
manner poflible, by hearing afrefh the
learned furgeon Francis Pignotti, and
uniting with him the other furgeon of
the prifons, Charles Guattani. Thefe
now pretend to maintain that the wounds
found upon the heads of the three un-
happy women, although declared by the
firft mentioned to have been caufed by an
inftrument incident and lacerant, accord^
ing to his firft recognition, (procefs, page
7 to 19, &c.) might alfo have been made
by a club or flick, which is an inftrument
contundent and lacerant (procefs, page
287 to 294, &c).

R 2 " But

•ito LETTERS FROM

<fr But this new inquifition has been made
" unneceflarily, ufelefsly,. and illegally.
" Unneceflarily, becaufe, even tho' we fup-
*' pofe the firft inquifition of the learned
" iurgeon reconcileable with the confeffion
" of the prifoner, as far as regards the in-
" ftruments- with which the faid prifoner
** wounded the unhappy women upon the
" head, notwithstanding this, the other
" plain contradictions of matters of fact
" between the confeffion of the prifoner
*c and thofe circumftances of the crime pn>-
" duced by the learned Pignotti, concerning
'* the number and nature of the wounds,
•1 can never be reconciled. And thefe will
" always- be an invincible obftacle in the
*' prefent trial againft the admiffion of the
'.' two before-mentioned acts, the inquifition
" of the furgeon, and the confeffion of the
*' prifoner, as being contradictory and ex-
" cluuve of each other, according to the
'* following learned authors, &c. &c.

" And,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 261

66 And, fecondly, this new inquifition has
*' been made ufelefsly, hecaufe, among the
" inftruments capable of deftroying life,
*' there are inftruments incidentia et perfo-
" rantia, which wound by a point, and
*' penetrate through the body, as knives and
" fmall fwords. There are, likewife, id-
n ftruments incldentia et lacerantm, and which
** wound by cutting, as fcymitars, br.oad-
*' fwords, and other fimilar arms, and there
4i are likewife inftruments coniundentia et
" lacerantia, which, inftead of penetrating
" and cutting, break the bones, and in
*' breaking them tear the fkin, as clubs,
" ftones, &c. Every perfon knows this,
'* and the divifion is clearly made in the
" general edicts of this tribunal, in the 32,
" 34 and 39 paragraphs, where pointed
*; arms are diftinguiined under the name
?; of incident and perforant ; cutting arms
" under that of incident and lacerant ; and
" flicks, ftones, clubs and bludgeons, under
<* the name of arms contundent and lacerant.

R 3 "It

262 LETTERS FROM

" It may probably be true that the recog*
*' nition of the dead bodies made by Pig-
" notti, and defcribed by divers wounds
" about their heads, with fracture of the
4i fcull, and lofs of part of the fubftance of
*' the brain, may carry along with it the
" neceffity of the inftrument having been
ff contundent and lacerant, as Guattani is
" kindly of opinion to favor his companion,
" (procefs, page 289 to 292,) to which Pig-
s' notti, without doubt, agrees in his new
■' opinion, (procefs, page 292 to 294) but
" notwithstanding this, it will always re-
s' main undeniable, that an inftrument con-
" tundent and lacerant can never be included
" under the name of an inftrument incident
" and lacerant, as the two learned furgeons
" erroneoufly fay in their new opinion, to
" fupport the word incident, made ufe of
■' by the faid Pignotti (procefs, page 291
*' and 293 J, for a contundent inftrument
H can not incide, as is known to every perfon.

« The

((

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 263

The judgment, therefore, being mani-
-* feftly erroneous in this material point,
" confequently rendersall proceedings againft
" the prifoner null and void, according to
" the following authors, &c. &c. &c. or thofe
" proceedings being authentic, as the con-
" feffion of the prifoner manifefHy contradicts
f them, it is thereby entirely rendered void,
and confequently of no force, particularly
with regard to condemning the prifoner
to death, as we have already conclufively
" proved, &c.

" Laftly, this new inquiiition has been
-' illegally made, becaufe the judge ought
" merely in points like thefe to fearch out
" the truth, and not extort it, for, notwith-
" ftanding the heinoufnefs of the crime,
u he is not permitted * tranfgredl leges, a
'* privilege only referved to the fovereign
" prince. They ought not, therefore, to

* To tranfgrefs againft the law.

R 4 " have

2/54 LETTERS FROM

u have read the confeffion of the prifoner tq
" the two learned furgeons,but to have quef?
¥ tioned them, how a fracture of the fkull,
M and lofs of part of the fubftance of the
" brain, was caufable by an inftrument inci-
" dent and lacerant, in order to hear from
" their own learning, whether they could
** have given a conclufive anfwer to their
M demands. In this manner they would
*f have fought after the pure and naked
" truth. On the contrary, in the prefent
u cafe, the learned furgeons, Pignotti and
" Guattani, being informed of the prifoner's
" confeffion, and by that being perfuaded
" of Pignotti' s miitake in defcribing the in-
" itruments, by which the unhappy women
" were wounded upon the head, what won-
il der is it if they have both attempted tq
" palliate the error. of the former, by de-
" fending it in the bell: manner they could ?
** It would, indeed, be wonderful (and,
" therefore, I neither can nor will fuppofe
ff it) if this fupreme tribunal was to allow
i "a

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 265

W a fimilar amendment, fo contrary to all
*' the rules and reafons adduced by the foU
" lowing authors, &c. &c. &c.

« We will now briefly produce the third
i( exception, which we have thought pro-
*c per to alledge againft the confeffion of the
♦' prifoner John Albani. And this confifts
'• in the want of verification of the fame in
*« a fubflantial point, fuch as is that of his
*' throwing the knife, with which he cut
« the unhappy womens' throats, into the
" common fewer, in the fquare of the Rot
W man college, near St. Martha's. (Procefs
w page 214.) This circumftance not being
" verified in the procefs, proves the aforer
** faid confeffion to be erroneous and falfe
•1 with regard to this, either directly fo,
<f fuppofing this perquifition has been made,
<f and the inftrument not found, or pofiibly
*f fo, fuppofing no perquifition has been
*' made at all. Now this want of verifica-
« tion that the confeffion fufFers with regard

« to

<l66 LETTERS FROM

4< to the prefent point, gives occafion for the
" introducing of the following mod true
" proportion, that a confeffion erroneous
" and falfe in one fubftantial circumftance,
i6 is prefumed to be fo in the whole, and,
cc therefore, can in no wife be prejudicial to
*' the confeffor, according to the following
u authors, &c,

Rome, Wednefday, ioth June,
ii o'clock morning, 1761.

" From what we have faid hitherto, we
*' flatter ourfelves that we have put into no
" fmall doubt the validity of the confeffion
•* of the prifoner, firft, as it is to be fufpedU
u ed of fuggeftion ; fecondly, as it contra-
" dicls the circumftances of the crime ; and,
if thirdly, as it remains contradicted itfelf in
" a material point. The force of what we
<c here fay will have likewife an additional
*' weight, if we confider divers extrinfical

" circumftances

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 267

*' circumftances proper to incite the innate
fi compaffion of this tribunal.

" And firft let me lay before the court the
fi extreme poverty of the prifoner, many
" times declared by himfelf, and proved by a
" diftinct defcription of his debts. (Procefs,
■* &c.) This, tho' not capable of excufing
M him from his crime, may, however, be
•' an inducement to obferve towards him
*' fome degree of minoration with regard to
" the puniihment due to it, according to the
f< unanimous affirmation of the following
M authors, &c. &c.

" What we mall fecondly produce in his
" favor is, his fpontaneous confeffion, which
" as it has delivered the court from the trou-
" ble of procuring the neceflary proofs
" againft him, ought not to render them
" averfe from fome fenfation of compaffion
<c towards the offender, and particularly as
M ever before this he has lived entirely

" blamelefs,

468 LETTERS FROM

?*. blamelefs, and at prefent knows his error
M and entreats mercy,

" The third extrinfical circumftance in
lt his favor, confifts in the juft and inceffant
" tears of his wife and three children, among
f ■ which are two girls that are marriageable,
(i All thefe in the tenderer!: manner fuppli*
*' cate this fupreme tribunal, not to opprefs
*' them who are innocent, with the perpe-
" tual ignominy they muft. undergo if their
" refpe&ive hufband and father was to die
f* upon an infamous fcaftold; and they urge
" the authority of Baldovini in their favor,
" council 24, num. 19, torn. iii. where he
" fays, that the children, by leading a perpe-
tf tual life of ignominy, would fufFer
" much more than their guilty father, whom
" death in a moment delivers from all his
M pains. And Vermiglioli fays, council
" 250, num. 14 and 15, Quam * maxime

" fupremum

* A number of children, who muft become partakers
of the calamity of their father, ought to have the greatefl

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 169

*6 fupremum tribunal movere debet filiorum
•• numerus, qui paternam calamitatem fen-
" tiunt, cum enim certum (it diminutionem
" paenarum fupremis magiftratibus eiTe arbi-
" trariam, negari non poteft quin filiorum
" numerus ad hujusmodi diminutionem fit
" confiderandus, AndRainaldo, vol. lxxv.
" num. 15, "Quarto, qui habet plures filios,
** qui ex quo paternam calamitatem fentiunt,
V faciunt paenae rigorem ceffare.

" And not to leave any tbing untouched
" upon in To weighty a caufe, we here de-
" clare that if the court, in order to avoid
41 the difficulties produced by us, mould at-

effeft upon every fupreme tribunal, and as it is undoubted
that fupreme magiftrates have the power of diminifhing pu-
nishments, it is likewife certain that the having of a'nnm-
ber of children muft be taken into confederation, as a
reafon for that dimiaution. And Rainaldo, v. 75. n. 15*
The fourth reafon is his having a number of children,
upon whofe account the rigor of the punifhment ought to
be mitigated, as they become fellow fufferers in the mis-
fortunes of their parent.

" tempt

270 LETTERS FROM

" tempt to condemn the prifoner, as convict-*
" ed according to the tenor of the well
" known edict of the facred and glorious
" memory of Benedict the fourteenth, our
" moft illuftrious benefactor, in this cafe,
" we demand time to defend the prifoner in
" this new light, as the fhort revolution
" of twenty-four hours does not give fuf-
" ficient fpace to our weak abilities, firft. to
" defend the delinquent, as having confefT-
•* ed, and then as fuppofed negative, but
" pretended to be convicted by undoubted
" proofs, &c. for which, &c.

*' Jofeph Afcevolini, advocate for the

a

poor.

" Philip Barbieri, notary for the poor.'*

However, notwithftanding the foregoing
defence, the following fentence, as I have
already foretold, was denounced againft John

Albani.

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 471

Albani. I will give it you in the Latin,
which is the original.

DieMartis, 9, Junii, 1761.*
Omnes convenerunt.
Johannes Albani malleo percuflus jugule-
tur, et in frufta fcindatur, et ejus abfciffum
caput exponatur fuper portam, quae dicitur
Angelica, cum crate ferrea et eulogio in-
fami.

You will remark, in the juridical pro-
ceedings, that the name of cardinal Paolucci,
to whom John Albani was coachman, is no
where mentioned. It was, I fuppofe, pur-
pofely avoided, not to expofe the name of a
cardinal in fuch an affair. Indeed, I do not

* Tuefday, 9th June, 1761.

All agreed,

That John Albani, after being ftruck down with a

mallet, fhould have his throat cut, and be quartered, and

his head placed over Porta Angelica in an iron grate, with

an infamous infcription.

think

ft7* LEtTERS FROM

think it greatly to the honor of his eminence
to have had a coachman fo extremely poor,
and fo great a villain. John Albani was a
man well known in Rome* and faid to be
remarkable for being a modeft, mild perfon,
and one who never fwore an oath. I muft
confefs I have no great opinion of thefe fanc-
tified fellows. There is a native pride, if I
may be allowed the expreffion, in true cou*
rage, honefty, or religion, which difdains the
intruding of itfelf to public view. You will
underftand better the force of what the ad-
vocate for the poor fays, with regard to John
Albani's wife and children leading a life of
perpetual ignominy, when you know that no
perfon will have any thing to do, or ever!
fpeak with the relations of a man that ha*
been executed publicly. I do not deny buC
that it is infamous enough with us in Eng-
land, however, here you fee they carry it to
the very higheft pitch imaginable. The
hangman, fpies, and thofe forts of people,

are

If ALY, GERMANY, &c. 273

tire likewife avoided as io many living
plagues;

Ditto, 12 o'clock at night.

The clock ftrikes twelve. Now thole
dead perfons, that have a mind to walk this
■night, fet out from their abandoned graves.
Now murder, with uncontrolled fteps, {talks
along the lightlefs ffreets of Rome, and now
John Alhani, the coachman, that killed the
three women, is advertising of his being to
die tomorrow. It is the cuftom in Italy never
to inform criminals of their ientencc till the
night before they are executed, at eleven
o'clock* The fcaffold is already built for the
execution tomorrow morning, in the fquare
before St. Angelo's Bridge. However, not-
withflandinp", the fentence is only now inch-
eating to John Alhani, he muil have ima-
gined that he is to die fobn. I do not know
whether I can commend this cuflom of only

(hewing the criminal his dead warrant the
Vol. III. S evening

274 LETTERS FROM

evening before his death. It mull (hock
them, I mould think, too much. The mo-
ment it is read to him two confefTors feize
upon him by each arm, as he is called out of
his dungeon to hear the fatal mandate. Nor
do- they abandon him till his death, comfort-
ing and fupporting him to theutmoft of their
power. You cannot imagine how eager the
people of Rome are to fee fuch a melancholy
kind of fpeclacle. They have been taking places
even to night, and windows in St, Angelo's
Square, where the execution is to- be, let at
I do not know how much money. It feems
to me a particular curioiity to be fond of fee-
ing fights of this nature. And yet in all
countries fo many people are running after
them. De gujlibiis non difputandum eft, as the
Italians fay.

Thurfday, June n, 1761.
Three quarters paft 12 at noon, Rome.

This morning, unwillingly, I faw the

mangled carcafe of John Albani, who was

1 executed

Italy, Germany, &c. 275

executed about nine o'clock. In going to
St. Peter's, near which I was obliged to make
a vifit, I paffed over St. Angelo's Bridge,
and, confequently, through the fquare ad-
joining. The firft thing I beheld were legs
and arms hung up upon the fcaffold, like
meat in a butcher's fhop; Then John Al-
bani's ghaftly head grinned upon me, fet up
to public view. The reft of the body lay
upon the fcaffold. The fight mocked me,
and I ftill have it prefent before my eyes. •

The news I have picked up abroad is, that
one of the three galleys of the pope, that
fet fail from Civita Vecchia for Malta, laden
with knights belonging to that ifland, is loft.
When I fay loft* I do not mean that me is
certainly funk, but that they do not know
where me is* The cafe is as follows. In
the channel between Sicily and Malta, they
met with a ftorm* The Saint Profpero, the
galley they are anxious about, loft all her
mafts in it. As the fea ran too high for the
S % two

176 LETTERS FROM

two others to bs able to give her any affift-
ance, they continued their voyage to Malta.
When they got into that port they told the
grand mafter what diftrefs they had left the
Saint Profpero in. As loon as the weather
would permit, he fent out his five galleys
provided with mafts, anchors, cables, &c.
to look out for her and afiift her. Nothing
has as yet been heard of her deftiny. This,
you may imagine, keeps the people of Rome
in anxiety, as there were many gentlemen of
good family on board her, as the marquis
Accoramboni and others.

LET.

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 277

LETTER XXVI.

Rome, a little after 1 in the afternoon,
Sunday, June 14, 1761.

+\ L L the news ftirring here is, that the
papal galley that was loft is found again.
Having fpruog her mafts, and not being able
to weather the florm, Ihe was obliged to
turn back. She put into Giorgenti, a little
port in Sicily, from whence' tidings have
been received of her. This has relieved
many noblemen who had relations on board
from their anxious fituation. With regard
to Bellifle, it is efleemed in agonies, and
that it can hold out but a very little longer.
Peace however is talked of, and they fay,
that not only we and the French, but even,
the Auftrians have appointed their plenipo-
tentiaries, to meet at a congrefs at Augf-
bourg,

S 3 The

278 LETTERS FROM

The country here about Rome has been
infefted with a prodigious quantity of mice,
or moles, that have done confiderable damage
to the corn and vineyards. Prayers have
been made on purpofe to deliver the faithful
from this plague. The prayer or exorpife-
ment is as follows, tho' I do not hear thofe
little animals have been lefs noxious upon
account of it.

" Exorcifo* vos peftiferos mures per De-
Ui um patrem omnipotentem, et Jefum Chrife

ci * I exorcife you pernicious moles, in the name of God
M the omnipotent Father, and of his Son Jefus Chrift, in
" order that you may forthwith depart from our fields
fi and lands, nor longer dwell in them, but pafs to other
*c fpots where you may be of hurt to none, curling you
IS on the behalf of the omnipotent God, and of the whole
^ court of heaven, and of the holy church of God, that
f{ you may every day decreafe, and become lefs in num-
" ber till no remains be found of you in any place,
" unlefs you fhoukl be neceffary for the welfare or fer-
iC vice of mankind. May he who is to come to judge
tf the quick and the dead, and the world by fire, grant this
*S qur prayer. Amen."

$<■ turn.

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 279

46 turn filium ejus, ut confeltim recedatls a
*'• campis et agris noftris, nee amplius in eis
" habitetis, fed ad ea loca tranfeatis, in qui-
" bus nemini nocere poflitis ; pro parte om-
" nipotentis Dei, et totius curiae caeleitis,
" et ecclefiae fanctae Dei vos maledieens, ut
f quocumque ieritis, litis maledicti, derici-
*' entes de die in diem in vos ipfos, et decref-
*' centes quatenus reliquiae de vobis nullo in
6t loco inveniantur, nil! necefTarice ad falu-
" tem et ufum humanum. Quod preftare
M dignetur, qui venturus eft judicare vivos,
" et mortuos, et fasculum per ignem. Amen*'*

After the priefl and people who followed
him had made their prayers and proceilions
in the infected places, they fprinkled them
duly with holy water, after which luftration,
and a decent number of croffings, the cere-
mony finimed,

Lafl night I faw a little piece of poetry

that regarded Mr. Steavens the timber mer-

• S 4 chant's

aSo LETTERS FROM

chant's foil, who made a great figure here at
Rome four or five years ago. He is dead, you
know. While he was at Rome he had the
pleaiure of being in the good graces of the
prettied: lady that was then in this town.
Whether it was his money or his perfon,
that pleafed the marchionefs Gabriele, I can
not tell, but certain it is, they were both
always together. To fhew you what a fine
excufe the Roman ladies have, for making
love with Englifh gentlemen, they fay that
the marchionefs Gabriele mewed all this
affection to Mr. Steavens in order to convert
him to the Roman catholic religion. It is
upon this my poetry is founded, which fup-
pofes that the marchionefs Gabriele's ghoir.
appears to him, and fpeaks to him in the
following manner.

Stiveriez ! che fai ? che neghittofo ognors*
Fra dubbioii penfieri errando vai ?

Non vedi forfe quanto incerto mai
Sia del noflro morire il quando c 1'ora ?

Ah ! che di camtfriar fede afpetti ancora ?

Ah

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. a8i

Ah perche mente a tanti errori dai ?

Per farti fedel, io fol t'amai,
Fallo or che fon morta fenza dimora.

Cosi facendo, fe riernica ftella
Col troncare li mei di, alio mio zelo

Nbn permife compir opra fi bella,
Sciolto quando farai dal mortal velo,

Sentiro con piacere che io fol fui quella
II di cui amor t'apri la via del cielo.

In Englim profe as follows.

Why doft thou loiter, Steavens, fluctuating
amidft the mazes of doubtful thought ?
Awake to reafon, and behold in me an ex-
ample of the incertitude of human life.
And canfl: thou ftill retard abandoning thy
religion ? And canfr. thou ftill give ear to
fatal errors ? To in roll thee amidff, the num-
ber of the faithful, I loved thee in life.
Execute my deiires then without delay after
my death. By doing this, tho' envious def-
tiny, in cutting fhort my days, hindered me
from accomplifhing the glorious intention,
ftill (hall I with pleafure reflect, when I

behold

<i%z LETTERS FROM

behold thee freed from the veil of huma-
nity, that it was I whofe love firft opened
thee the path to heaven,

Do not you think this is a fine excufe for
Jibertinifm ? See in what a droll manner the
author has fpelt Mr. Steavens's name. I do
not know who he is. This mighty perform-
ance is anonymous. When the marchionefs
Gabriele died, Mr. Steavens did a very popu-
lar thing here at Rome, which was, to give
a prefent of a hundred Roman crowns to
fome priefts to pray for her foul, that it
might be the fooner releafed from the pains
of purgatory. I do not know whether this
prra incognita, as doctor Swift calls it, is
founded upon fcripture, but I am fure it is
eftablimcd upon very lucrative maxims9
How many legacies does not the eccleli-
aftical branch of the Roman catholic reli-
gion enjoy, which have been left by pious
per fon s for maffes for themfelves or their
relations. This fpirit too is kept up by

{lories,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. a8j

Tories, that feem, and probably are, formed
on purpofe, I will tell you one of them.

In a fermon at Leghorne during lent time,
(I do not tell you the year, for I do not
Jcnow it myfelf,) a preacher had been fet-
Jng forth, with great eloquence, the' duty
all Christians lay under of affifting their
deceafed brethren by their fuffrages or pray-
ers. He exprefled the pains of purgatory
with fuch energy, and the remhTnefs of the
faithful in making contributions to relieve
thofe poor furTerers by maffes, in fuch pathe-
tic expreffions, that he brought tears into the
eyes of aU prefentf

There was an old beggar woman in
church at the before mentioned fermon.
She was fo affected with what me had
heard, that in going out of the door, me
put three farthings, all (he had in the
world, into a charity box, that upon thefe
pccafions is always ready, in order to re-
ceive

254 • LETTERS FROM

ceive the pious contributions, that are offeiv
ed for the benefit of the fouls in purgatory,
or rather of their advocates in this world.
After the old beggar-woman had gone
through two or three ftreets, the freih air
abated confiderably the edge of her devo-
tion, and increafed that of her appetite.
She reflected that me had given away all
flic had in the world, at a time when me
had not a model of bread to eat. As it was
late, and moft people gone to dinner, me
had but little hopes of any charitable paf-
fengers relieving her. In a fit of defpair
me threw herfelf down upon fome fteps
there were before a public building, and
began crying. She had not been long in-
dulging her grief, before a venerable old
gentleman paffed by. He afked her what
was the caufe of her being fo melancholy.
She told him. Well, fays lie, I will affift
you, only carry this letter I have in my
hand to fuch a houfe, and the people there
will give you fomething, The old woman

took

ITALY, GERMANY, &c, ify

took the letter, and faid fhe would do as he
bid her, and the venerable old gentleman
walked oft. As foon as me came to the
houfe • that had been defcribed to her, me
aiked for the matter of it, to whom the
letter was directed. He was a perfon of
rank and fortune. Upon reading the letter
he turned pale. As foon as he had fmifhed
it, he left his company, and defired to fpeak
with the old woman. He beowd her to
give him a perfect defcription of the perfon
who had fpoken to her. She did fo. He
then aiked her if me thought fhe mould
know his picture if me law it. She faid me
had no doubt but that fhe mould. Accord-
ingly, he took her into a room where there
was a great number of portraits of all his
family and anceftors for fome generations.
As foon as the old be^&'ar-woman had en-
tered with the gentleman into this room,
fhe began to confidcr the pictures attentively.
At Lift (lie fixed upon one, which fhe faid,
was the venerable old gentleman that had

iii v en

m . LETTERS FROM

given her the letter. But are you fure of it*
lays the matter of the houfe ? Yes, fays fne*
it is fo like him, I could fwear it to be the
fame perfon. Why then, fays he, as I am
living here upon earth, it was my great
grandfather that appeared to you, whom
your charity has delivered from the pains of
purgatory. He in this letter defires me to
fettle upon you a penfion for life, and I fhall
accordingly, which he did $ and fo my flory
ends.

It is by thefe and fimilar incitements, that
the Romifh church keeps up its great annual
revenue of charities for the fouls in purga-
tory. To this bank Mr. Steavens contributed
his hundred crowns, for the foul of the de*
ceafed marchionefs Gabriele. This action> as
I have already faid, made him very popular
here in Rome. The marchionefs Gabriele
killed herfelf by dancing when me was big
with child. I was at Rome during that
time, and the very day I was to be intro-
duced

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 2S7

duced to her, I went and faw her extended
upon her bier in the church, with the little
embrio placed upon her bofom. She looked
pretty even in death, and

-beauty's enfign yet

Was crimfon on her lips and in her cheeks,

but I believe it was owing to rouge. She
danced between the acts of a play, performed
by fome gentlemen and ladies at villa Bor-
ghefe.

Death too is at prefent bufy among the
cardinals. Cardinal Orii, who has written an
ecclefiaftical hiiiory famous for the beauty
of its ftyle, breathed his lair, a few days ago.
Yefterday news came, that cardinal Banchi-
eri, the legate at Ferrara, was dead. Cardi-
nal Paolucci is ill at Albano, and cardinal
Paffionei is in agonies at Frafcati. The lafl
is one of our great men here, or, according
to the expreffion of the court of Rome, one

of

288 LETTERS FROM

of the three cardinal palatines ; The three
cardinal palatines mean thofe three that live
in the pope's palace, and have the principal
fway in the government* They are the
cardinals Torriggiani, Cavalchini, and Paf-
iionei. There is at prefent a fourth $ which
is cardinal Rezzonico the pope's nephew.
Cardinal Paffionei's illnefs is faid to have
been owing to an excefs of paffion or difguft.
Being a perfon who has always had the gales
of fortune favorable, iipon her lowering A
little he could not refill her frown. The
affair as well as I can collect it, from the
myfterious whifpers that go about, is as
follows. Lately a new catechifm has been'
publifbed, and handed about Rome for the
inftruclion of children. Tho' published with
due licenfes, upon revihon it was diiapproved
of by the pope. His private council was
called, and the fentiments of the cardinals
aiked. Cardinal Paffionei was always itrong-
ly againft condemning this new perform-
ance, however, it wras decided againft him

bv

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 289

by the majority of the affembly. The car-
dinal, as fecretary of the briefs, was to fub-
fcribe this decree forbidding the catechifm.
He refufed to do it, faying, it was againft
his confcience. However an order came
from the pope, who was at Caftel Gan-
dolfo, telling him to lign it, or lay down
his office immediately. Accordingly he iigned
it. However, as this was the firft check he
ever received in his life, he took it fo much
to heart, that the violent paffions, which
opprefTed him all at once, overwhelmed the
vital parts, and he fell down in an apoplectic
fit. As he is feventy or eighty years of age,
there feem to be but little hopes of his reco-
very, and he has entirely loft one half of his
body. Nay, I think they even fay that a
mortification has begun on that fide. He is
not at Rome, but at Frafcati, for many of
the cardinals and other great perfonages of
Rome are now in the country. They will
mofl of them however, return by the feaft.
of St. Peter, which is the 29th of this
Vol. III. T month.

a9o LETTERS FROM

month. It was to Frafcati that the brief
of the pope was brought him with orders to
be ilgned. Moft part of Rome think him
entirely in the wrong, for not having ligned
directly, tho' contrary to his confcience.
Their reafons have fome weight. In the
privy council, confifting of thirteen cardinals,
of which number he was one, he had already
produced all his opinions and arguments to
the contrary. They had not the good luck
to prevail, for feven of the cardinals were
againft him, and five only for him. With
regard to fubferibing the pope's decree, in
confequence of the refult of this council, his
office of fecretary of the briefs obliged him
officially to iign what the pope wanted to
publifh. An Italian brought me the follow-
ing example. Suppofe, fays he, Mr. Pitt,
or the duke of Newcaftle, or any other mi-
nifter, were obliged to fubferibe all the acts of
parliament by virtue of fome poll: they enjoy-
ed. Notwithftanding any particular act of
parliament might contradict their way of

thinking,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. a$i

thinking, yet when once the majority have
voted it, they are obliged by virtue of their
office to fubfcribe it, and as a fubjecl to obey
it. In parliament they had the liberty 0*
bringing all their objections. Thofe objec-
tions had not iufficient weight with the ma-
jority. Therefore the minority is obliged to
give up their opinion to the greater number,
or elfe there could be no government.

L E.T,

aj2 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XXV.

Rome, half after eleven in the morning,
Sunday, June 21, 1761.

W EDNESDAY fevennight, then, the
firft of July, whether I hear from you or
110, the riling fun mall no more behold me
in Rome. We have had a very iickly time-
in this metropolis, owing, I believe, to the
extravagant weather we have had. Nothing
but rain and thunder for a long time. The
fky is now cleared up a little, and the heats
begin to fet in, but they are nothing like
thofe of Spain. This is a middle climate
between that and England. In Spain it
never rains, hyperbolically fpeaking, in Eng-
land always, ufing the fame rhetorical
figure. Italy feems the medium between
thefe two extremes. It is this, I imagine,
added to the great dews, which caufes the
i fertility

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 293

fertility of the country. But what does
the natural fertility of the foil avail, if
here about Rome they do not cultivate their
lands ? Many are the caufes of this neglect
of agriculture. I do not think, as we ima-
gine, it can be upon account of the defpotic
government. In that cafe, Tufcany, Venice,
Naples, and other abfolute governments,
would be the fame, which is not true. You
may wonder to hear me put Venice in this
lift, but certain it is, that the fubjecl: does
not enjoy more liberty there than in any
monarchy. All the republics of Italy are
in the fame ftyle . The only difference be-
tween them and a monarchical government
is, that there are fixty or eighty kings in-
ftead of one. All the reft of the people are
equally fubfervient to the ftate as in Rome,
or any where elfe. Indeed, I hardly know
a nation but England, where fome little
{hare in the government defcendsro almoft all
the ranks in the ftate. Montefquieu, if I
do not miftake, fays it is the only free govern-
T 3 ment

a94 LETTERS FROM

ment in the world. However, I do not
hold the good cultivation of our lands in
England' to be owing to this liberty, any-
more than the bad management of thofe in
the Roman ftate to the contrary. Where-?
ever the countryman is equally fure of being
paid for his labor, he has always an equal
incitement to work. Now I imagine this
pay is equally certain in the Roman ftate
as in thofe of Tufcany, Venice, England, or
any other. You will fay, perhaps, that
defpotic authority has the power of wrefting
from the laborer his daily hire* It un-
doubtedly has. But it is a power that never
has, and probably never will be exercifed,
as being contrary to the intereft of the
rulers. The lefs revenue the lands furnifh,
the lefs advantage ail princes muft naturally
draw from their dominions. The country-
man, therefore, having never feen any ex-
amples to the contrary, and not being in
general very long lighted, I dare fay think
themfelves as fure of reaping the fruits of

their

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 295

their labor upon Roman foil as ours do in
England. There is not, indeed, the handy
cuftom introduced in general here in Italy
of the tenants paying fo much annual
money to their landlords for the ufe of
their lands. Their way, efpecially in Tuf-
cany, is often as follows, which, however,
I think, ought to redound more to the dis-
advantage of the landlord than of the
tenant. They pay in kind, that is, the
farmer is to cultivate fuch a track of land at
his expence, and half of the fruits it pro-
duces go to the maintenance of him and his
fimily, and the other half to his landlord.
This is in general, for in thofe forts of
contracts people, you know, may make what
bargain they pleafe. But the above men-
tioned manner of contracting between the
landlords and their tenants muft be very
inconvenient for the former. Sure our way
of money is much better ; for, at the leafr,
if the gain is lefs, you have fo much neat
cam come in your hands. For the farmer,
T 4 - however,

296 LETTERS FROM

however, I do not know whether it is not
advantageous, as they laughingly fay in
Tufcany that he generally gets half out of
the landlord's half. The remainder mufl
be fold, which obliges the nobility there to.
retail their wine out of a hole in the wall
belonging to their palace. I fee, therefore,
no intrinfical caufe to hinder the country
people from cultivating their lands as much
as thofe in England. I fee many intrinfical
ones derived from the nature of thofe coun-
try people about Rome. They are idle.
Their principal happinefs feems to be in
feeing procefhons and other fhows, of which
there are no fcarcity in this city. They
may, likewife, be afraid of fraying too much
in the bad air, which occupies the country
about Rome. Ambition, likewife, may
hinder thofe who think they have talents.
The common people even in England like
to take orders, that they may become gen-
tlemen. Much more will this defire predo-
minate in a country where every office, even

the

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 297

the fupreme, is In the hands of the clergy.
The example of Sixtus the fifth, who is
faid from a hog-driver to have arrived at
the dignity of pope, makes the loweft clown
hope for equal good fortune. The great
encouragement too for beggars in Rome,
deftroys the edge of induftry. As they find
they can be maintained by charity without
working, many are thofe who like better
to gain a miferable livelihood by roaming
about Rome, than to fare better by laboring
in the fun-burnt fields. The Romans have
a very falfe idea with regard to beggars.
There being more of them, they fay, in
Rome than in any other town, is a fign that
there is more charity. But they are in
the wrong. I grant fthat a number of
convents are by their inftitution obliged to
give foup and bread, and other things to
the poor every day, and that a beggar,
who has a mind to employ his legs, may
get three or four dinners in this manner.
I grant that many of the citizens make it a

rule

29$ LETTERS FROM

rule to give every beggar that appears every
day, let them be a thoufand, a farthing a
piece. I grant that in Eafter-week the pope
wafhes their feet, and the nobility ferve
them at table. But is all this charity ? It
may be fo to the particular mendicants, but
I am fure it is not to the flate. Every
government has a right to the labor of its
poor fubjects. In a well regulated city there
{hould not be one beggar. Thofe unable to
work ought to be fupported in hofpitals.
The others mould be forced to labor for
their maintenance. What a manufacture
might be fet up by means of the wretches
that are {trolling about Rome ! In anfwer
to this, I am told that Rome is different
from other towns, as a number of pilgrims
come daily to viiit the holy places. Thefe
are chiefly beggars, but muft be permitted,
or you deftroy one of the principal tenets
of the Roman catholic religion, which holds
it meritorious to vifit reliques and fanctuaries.
But their flay might be limited, and with

regard

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 299

regard to the native poor of the city, an
arbitrary government might make what
regulations they pleafed.

Monday, June 22, three quarters
after 12 at noon.

O N E of the fcholars of the Clementine
college has been robbed in a very hardy
manner. He is a young man of fortune,
brought up at this feminary. A perfon
knocked at the door of his apartment. He
told him to come in. All the ftudents at
thefe colleges have their different apart-
ments, as at our univerfities. A kind of
officer entered with a letter from major
Rocco. This is a major in one of the pope's
regiments. This letter allured the young
gentleman that the officer, who was the
bearer, was a perfon of honor and honefty,
who, however, had met with misfortunes,
and that the writer recommended him to
his charity, defiling him to beg his fellow

ftudents

300 LETTERS FROM

ftudents to make a contribution for him.
The young gentleman anfwered, "that, as
" for defiring his fellow fludents, he could
" not do it, becaufe, if the rector of the
" college knew of it, he would be very
" angry with him. As for his own private
■{ part, he had very little money, however,
iC if he would accept of half a zecchin, he
" would give it him." The man, notwith-
ftanding his fine drefs, faid he mould be
very glad of it, and took it accordingly.
But he had no fooner got it than he catched
hold of the chain of the young man's
watch, which hung out of his pocket, and
faid he mould be glad of that likewife.
The watch followed the pull he gave it,
and he carried it off triumphantly. I do
not know whether he did not draw out a
knife to fecure his retreat, . but there was
no need of that precaution, as aftoniihment
had caufed its ufual petrifying effects. The
ftudent neither moved or cried out till the
aggrenor had retreated out of the room,

and

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 301

and locked the door after him to hinder a
purfuit. Major Rocco, upon enquiry, had
written no letter, and it was forged for an
excufe to enter the room.

Tuefday, June 23, half after one
in the afternoon.

Cardinal Delci is dead, and in fome days

there will be a ceremony for his funeral.

His body is to be embalmed. I yefterday

evening made feveral parting viiits. In one

of them we had a differtation upon our

pronunciation of Latin, which feems very

odd to foreigners. The Germans, French,

Spaniards and Italians much more refemble

each other in that refpedl than we do either.

Notwithftanding, therefore, what fome

learned people in England fay, I mould think

our pronunciation of that language has the

lead: chance for being right. The Italians,

I mould imagine, are mod likely to have

retained fomething of the found, as being

the

joi LETTERS FROM

■

the fucceffors of the ancient Romans. How*
ever, there are ftrong proofs to be given
that their pronunciation of Latin is not
entirely as their anceftors pronounced it*
They are as follow. But for the firft argu-
ment, you muft grant me that when the
Goths invaded Italy, and corrupted the
language then talked there, it is more pro-
bable, in the ancient words they preferved,
that they adhered to the found than to the
orthography. We fee many frefh examples
of this in all countries. The word chocolate
with us, is cloccolata in Italian. The way
of fpelling is different, but the found is
nearly the fame. The province of Cham*
paigne in France is written Sciampagna in
Italian, a fimilar pronunciation in different
languages not being attainable by the fame
letters. There might be a great many
examples produced of this, but the two
foregoing may be fufficient. Tho' I will
juft add that the Italians have adopted our
word fijh for counters, which found in their

language

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 303

language muft be fpelt fifce, and accordingly
is fpelt fo. This then being laid down as a
foundation, it is probable that the letter I in
the word lejus, which the Italians pronounce
in Latin as if it was written with a vowel
(Jefus) was by the ancient Romans pro-
nounced as we do. Elfe why fhould the
Italians put a G and I to their word Giesu,
if you do not fuppofe that the Goths coming
into Italy heard the word pronounced in that
manner, but were obliged to fpell it differ-
ently, to comply with the different found
of their letters ? This is common to every
word now in Italian, derived from thofe in
Latin, with an I confonant, asjuvare, giovare;
Jerufa/em, Gerufalemme ; Junius Glugno ; Julius
Giulio, and many others. There feems to be
another proof too exilfing, that the Romans
pronounced the vowel I different from the
confonant, and this is taken from their
poetry. Wherever there is an I confonant,
there is no elifion, but with a vowel I there
always is one ; and furely they mull: have

adif-

304 LETTERS FROM

a different found, when the letter made
either a fyllable more or lefs. But tho' I
think we are right in this refpedl, in every
other I am afraid we mull yield the palm*
and particularly with regard to the vowels ;
the found of which we have totally changed
from that of every other nation upon the
continent. It is this which renders us unin-
telligible to foreigners when we fpeak Latin ;
but my civil law lectures in Germany fo
broke me in to this manner of pronunciation,
that I am better off than moil of my coun-
trymen.

LET-

ItALY, GERMANY, &c. 30;

LETTER XXVI.

Rome, half an hour after 6 afternoon*
Sunday, June 28, 1761.

X H I S morning there has been a great
procefliori, which accompanied the tribute
paid by the king of Naples to the pope.
As I am in Rome I make ufe of this word,
but Naples calls it only a free gift ; however
it is a remnant of that feudal fyftem which
the popes endeavoured to eftablim all over
Europe, and had done fo in England, till
Henry the eighth broke the vaffalage entered
into by king John. The trifling annual in-
come .was not their object, but the difpofing
of the kingdom in cafe of diibbedience or
vacancy. The money now to be paid by
Naples, the fum of which I do not know,
was placed upon a white horie> Or hackney
(L'achinea,) which enters St. Peter's church,
Vol. III. U and

2o6 LETTERS FROM

and is taught to kneel down before the pope*
and preient him with his golden charge.
This docile bead is attended by the high con-
stable of Naples, an office now hereditary in
the Colonna family, the prince of which,
with a long fuite of cavalry and coaches, ap-
pears on horfeback, dreffed out at all points,
and with much pomp.

In parling by the Rotonda, the modern
name of the building, called anciently the
Pantheon, and which is now fanctified and
become a church dedicated to the Virgin
Mary and all faints, I read the following
edict, prohibiting the ufe of the there men-
tioned book. I tranflate it you, as it fhews
the nature of thefe ecclefiaiiical profcrip-
tions, and is I believe the fame which
cardinal Paffionei was obliged to fign. He
is, they fay, fomething better.

" Edict of condemnation and prohibition of
" the Italian tranflation of the French origi-

" nal

Italy, germ Any, &c. 307

*' nal work, bearing this title, " Expofition
*' de la doctrine Chrefienne, ou in ft ructions
" fur les principals verites de la religion,"
*' in five volumes i

" Pope Clement the thirteenth, ad perpe-
€6 iuam rci manor i am >

" Among the many detriments the catho-
*' lie religion fuffers, the thoughts of which
" afflict us day and night, none however,
*' caufe us more grief, than to behold the
<c deluge of pernicious books that are pub.
*' limed, endangering the fafety of thofe
" fouls* which have been redeemed by the
" moft. precious blood of Chrift. Among
" others, a work in French, infilled, " Expo-
" fition de la doctrine Chretienne, &c." the
" author unknown, did heretofore arrive to
" our ears* We now are likewife informed
" that notwithftanding the decree fulminated
" by the congregation of the Index Expur-
" gatorius againft this book, it has been
U % " translated

LETTERS FROM

trariflated into Italian, and that many
copies of it are diftributed about every
where. All obedient fons of the church
certainly know, that a translation of this
fort does not free a work from the cenfure
lanced againft it in the original, and that
it is a fixed rule with the apoftolical fee,
that an author once profcribed in one lan-
guage, lies under the fame prohibition into
whatever other it is tranflated, provided
it has not been purged by the lawful
authority of thofe to whom that office
belongs. However, notwithftanding the
foregoing tacit prohibition, yet the care
of the fheep of the lord intruded to our
humility, and the protection of the divine
doctrines delegated to us from heaven,
(for the prefervation of the purity of
which we are flridlly accountable to ChrifT:
our lord, and everlafting mepherd,) incite
us not to be contented with the condemn
nation already lanced, but oblige us to
take (till farther care that our flock mould

" not

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 3°9

tc not be led aftray by the appearance of
" piety, which this work exhibits, nor in-
" feezed by the latent poifon of opinions
«' already profcribed by the holy fee, fo as to
ct wound their hands with the attendant
*c thorns, while they think of gathering the
f goodly rofe. We are the more confeious
" that this our paternal care is neceffary, as
" the aforefaid work is calculated for thofe
" who are as vet unfkilled in their faith, and
" ftill in want of the milk of inftru&ion,
(i to ufe the words of the apoftle, fo that
" not being able to diitinguim between good
" and evil, they with a pious intention
" might be led into errors. We ordered
u therefore, this Italian tranflation of the
" before mentioned original, CGnfliting in five
" volumes, the firft intitled, an Expofition
" of the Creed of the Catholic Faith, Naples
" 1758, printed by Francis Simon with
(l licenfe of fuperiors ; the fecond, an Expo-
" fition of the Lord's Prayer ; the third, an
" Expofition of the Ten Commandments,
U 3 " printed

jio LETTERS FROM

''printed as before, but in the year 1759;
*' the fourth, anExpofition ofthe Sacraments;
" the fifth, an Expofition of the Command-
*' ments of the Church, with a treatife ad-
"joined, concerning juftiflcation, 1760, print-
" as above, to be revifed bv our mailers of
*e facred theology, chofen expeflly for the
*' examination of the fame. And having
*' received and heard their opinions, in the
" general congregation holden before us the
" 28 th day of May, of the current year,
" together with the votes of our venerable
" brethren the eminent cardinals inquifitors
(i general deputed by the apoftolical fee
" againft. the infection of herefy, and having
46 duly weighed their opinions, we do by our
" apoftoHcal authority condemn, reject, and
" prohibit, the above mentioned Italian tranf-?
*4 lation, as containing propositions refpec*
<c tively falfe, captious, jarring, fcandalous,
" dangerous, fufpectful, ram, contrary to
<e the apoftolical decrees and the practice of
** the church, and agreeable to proportions
I "a

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 311

te already condemned and profcribed by that
* church. And we likewife prohibit and
" forbid, to all and every believer in Chriit,
" under pain of excommunication, to be
" ipfo fatto incurred by the difobedient, the
*1 ufe of this book, viz, the keeping it by
** them, reading it, defcribing it, tranflating
" it, printing it, &c. and this under what-
" ever new title it may come out, or under
" whatever pretence of being corrected, only
" by the authority of private perfons, Willing
" and ordering, by the fame apoflolical power,
" that whoever mail have in their pofTefTioii
•-' the before mentioned work, either in the
u original or tranflation, mail deliver and
" confign it upon the emanation of this
H edict to the ordinaries of the refpective
u places, or the inquifitors againft the infec-
*c tion of herefy. And the faid ordinaries
" and inquifitors mall fupprefs the copies of
'.* the aforementioned books fo delivered to
u them, that they may not fall into the
u hands of others. And in order that this
U 4 " our

312 LETTERS FROM

" our p referi t edicT; may be known to all, wo
c< command our crier to publim it in the
i( ufual places, and to leave copies of it hung
c< up at the following doors, viz. of the
" church of the prince of the apoftles (St#
" Peter,) of the apoftolical chancery, and of
" the court general of Monte Citorio, and
M in the fcmare of the Campo di Fiore, ac-
<l cording to cuftom. And this our edict is
" to oblige all and every perfon equally as if
" it had been intimated to them perfonally.
•1 And the copies of it figned by proper au^
,c thority mall have the fame force as the
« edia itfelf.

" Given at Caftel Gandolfo in the diocefe
W of Albano, under the pifcatorial ring, (or
ring of St. Peter the fifherman,) the 14th
" day of June 1761, in the third year of our
** pontificate.

" Cardinal Paffionei."

Mondays

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 313

Monday, June 29, 1 1 at night.

THIS being St. Peter's day, I have been
engaged in the pompous church ceremonies
exhibited upon that occafion. But the heat
and crowd rendered them difagreeable. I
have been more pleafed with the illumina-s
tion of the church, and the fire-works at
Caftle St. Angelo, this and yefherday even-
ing. The former reprefented the dome and
front of that building all in fire, and the
latter fent up to heaven fuch an explofion of
rockets all at once, that I never beheld the
Jike, and when they burft, the flaming air
feemed torn by hundreds of thunderbolts.
But thefe fights have tired me, and I will
go to reft. This I do the more willingly, as
I fhall be bufy tomorrow in preparations for
my leaving this capital the day after.

LET"

*i4 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XXVII.

Loreto, Saturday, July 4,
8 o'clock morning.

A ARRIVED yefterday at this place, and
fhall leave it tomorrow, fraying one day to
fee the flying houfe. I flopped at Terni,
the antient Interamna, to go to the famous
cafcade, which took me up half a day, You
muft afcend the top of a high mountain,
from whence the river Nar precipitately
gufhes down into the valley beneath. The
beauty of the fpot, the foam, the rainbow
which it makes, added to the roaring of the
falling water, formed a fcene new and ro-
mantic, I know not how many yards the
river falls down, but it is from the top of a
high hill. That evening we got no farther
than Spoleto, a town fituated in the Apen-
nines, the paflage through which is very

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 315

bad this way. The vale in which Spoleto
is fituated, is watered by the Clitumnus,
whofe meadows feem as rich as Virgil de*
fcribes them,

Hinc albi, Clitumne, greges et maxima taurus

Vi&ima. Lib. ii, Georg, vers, 1461*

In the evening I walked out to fee an aque«*
duel, juft beyond which is a very pretty
wood, full of hermitages, and among the
anchorets I found an Englishman. He was
civil enough to infill: upon my flaying fupper,
and I can amire you, I never fared better,
in my life. Notwithstanding the venerable
beards which wagged round the table, and
their fandaled feet which befpoke penitence,
we paffed a very lively evening. Yefterday
I left Spoleto, and came liere without any
thing remarkable,

I have juft had a book brought me of the
WPnders of the holy houfe, which I am

ji6 LETTERS FROM

going to fee. My author tells me, it was
anciently inhabited by the patriarchs, and
fituated in the holy land. Let no perfon
wonder at the duration of Roman cement,
when this has lalted fo much longer. St.
Joachim and St. Anne, the parents of the
Virgin Mary, at length came into poffefiion
of it, and it was there fhe was born. It was
there, likewife, that the angel appeared,
and hailed her. It was there that me con^
ceived by the Holy Ghoit. Upon account
of the many facred works performed under
its roof, the apoftles converted it into a
church, to which many great men reforted,
and rivalled each other in making prefents.
But the holy land falling under the hands of
the Saracens, the fervants of Chrifr. were
hindered from making their pilgrimages
there as ufual. God, unwilling that the
houfe in which our Saviour was conceived
fhould become a prey to Mahometan vio-
lence, ordered his angels to tranfport it
into Dalmatia. The bleffed angels obeyed

the

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 317

the omnipotent command. At midnight,
between the 9th and 10th of May, 1291,
they bore it upon the wing to a little place
called Terfatto. Here it remained for above
three years, but the Almighty, not liking
the fpot, ordered the holy building again to
be removed to a thick wood, near Loreto.
The trees bent down to earth in honor of
its arrival, and remained many years in that
proftrate condition, till the covetous pro-
prietor of the land cut them down to fell
the timber. As a band of robbers infefted
this place, the Lord harkened to the de-
fires of the faithful, and caufed it a third
time to be traniported into Loreto itfelf,
where it has ever fince remained ftationary.

10 o'clock at night.

I have feen all the wonders of this holy
place. I firft vilited the church, built over
thd fleeting houfe of Nazareth, which

can

3i8 LETTERS FROM

can not again efcape without carrying off the
roof* I believe it is large, but looks fmaller
by the middle of its area being occupied by
the miraculous houfe. Round it were a
number of women in a firing, moving upon
their knees. This walking upon their
flumps is, I fuppofe, enjoined them for a
penance, and it has been fo often exercifed,
that a groove is worn in the ftones. One of
the flaves who feized the Turkim veffel,
would not cut off his beard till he had fwept
the Virgin Mary's houfe with it. Many
other things of this kind are performed, but
I left the wriggling penitents, and entered
the building. The nrfl idea which ffruck
me, was the fmallnefs of it ; and I do not
fee how the Virgin Mary and her parents
could live in two divifions, where I could
hardly flir. The nrfl: was called that of
the Santo Cammino, where there was a
fort of oven, which I fuppofe is understood
by the name to have been the chimney of
the family. A porringer was fhewn us,

confe-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 319

confecrated, I believe, by the Virgin's having
eat her foupe out of it* On the left hand
was faid to be the window, through which
the angel Gabriel entered, but it appeared fo
fmall, that a fpiritual being certainly could
not enter it cloathed in a human fhape. The
other divifion was principally occupied by
an image of the Virgin Mary, cloathed with
the moll tranfeendent finery, and blazing
with all manner of the richefr. jewels. But
what furprized me was, to fee her face as
black as ebony, nor do I know why they
have changed her countenance to that of a
negro. The fculptor had certainly very
different ideas from thofe which gave birth
to the beautiful Madonnas of Titian, Ra-
phael and Guido. If we were in Angola*
it might, perhaps, be politic to flatter the
Africans, with the mother of our Redeemer
having been of their colour ; but I do not
fee the reafon for this metamorphofis in
Europe. After having gazed for fome time,
with aftonilhment, at the blacknefs of the

figure,

3zo LETTERS FROM

figure, I adjourned to the treafury, where
my eye was feafted with every thing that
can be rich and coftly, in gold, filver, and
jewels. As there were many female orna-
ments, I prefumed they might be given in
penance to the Virgin Mary, by contrite
ladies, who, to expiate their freedoms,
facriflced what gave luftre to their charms.
At length, dazzled with the immenfe riches,
if all real, of the place^ I went to fee other
lefs brilliant objects, and even defcended into
the cellar, where there is a prodigious tun
belonging to the convent, fix times larger
than any tun that was ever yet beheld upon
the face of the earth, except at Heidelburg,
and this tun is ycleped the Virgin Mary's
tun, and the faithful in the Lord drink
thereof. Tomorrow I continue my journey
towards Bibbiena.

LET-

Italy, Germany, &c. in

LETTER XXVIIL

Cefcna, Tuesday, July 7, 1761.
7 o'clock in the evening.

X GOT to this place on Sunday, where I
have ftaid ever fince, but (hall leave it to-
morrow. From Loreto I came to Ancona,
a fea-port of the pope's, upon the Adriatic.
It is placed upon a rock that juts out into
the fe'a, and feems a town of good trade.
But commerce is not encouraged in the
papal territories. The cattle looks as if it
might be rendered tolerably ftrong, if his
holinefs did not depend upon other forces
than the military. There is likewife a very
handfome lazaretto for performing quaran-
tine. 1 ftaid however but a little time,
when I continued my journey along a moil
beautiful country, fituated dole by the fea
fide, whofe then pacific waves often wafhed
Vol. III. X our

522 LETTERS FROM

our right-hand wheels. We patted the
towns of Sinigaglia, Fano, Pefaro, and Ri-
mini, and then we left the fea a little to
enter the rich plain of Romagna, where
a fine road fhortly brought us to this city,
after paffing the Rubicon with lefs delibe-
ration than Julius Caefar did. Upon my
arrival I went to the inn, but had not been
there above half an hour, before a man came
from a friar, of the order of the pious fchools,
to whom I had a letter, and who was to
provide me horfes to Bibbiena, and take care
of my chaife till my return to Cefena. Fa-
ther Angelo and his companion father Anto-
nio, foon made me a viiit, which this mef-
fage was to announce. They feem both very
good fort of people. They would have had me
gone, almoft by force, that night^to their ha-
bitation, and taken up my quarters there.
I excufed myfelf, though with difficulty. I
then tried to make them ft ay fupper, but
being friars, they did not care to remain out fo
late in an inn. Indeed while friars, are in

convents,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c 323

convents, in Rome particularly, they can
not fray out later than fun-fet, but thefe
two, father Angelo and father Antonio, only
live in a houfe belonging to the pious
fchools, to take care of the affairs of that
order. The affairs of the order in Cefena
confifl in the management of their farms
and other porTeffions. The fruits of thefe
they fend to Rome, to the college of Naza-
reth, .the principal of their inftitution in
that city. But though I excufed myfelf for
the night, they were fo importunate that I
could not refufe exchanging my inn for
their habitation in the morning, and here I
am at prefent writing this letter. The
room is folidly, not elegantly furnifhed.
Fronting my window is the view of a dil-
mantled fortrefs, which in ancient times
might have been ilrong, but fmce arms in
this country have given place to religion,
has been abandoned, and is in fome parts
falling into ruins. The country about Ce-
fena is very pretty, a rich foil, interfperfed

X 2 with

-324 LETTERS FROM

with agreeable little hills. 1 have been recei*
ved by my two hofts with the utmoft civility,
and that open-politenefs which pleafes. After
breakfaft, yefterday, we went out to fee
what was moil: particular in the town. We
went to fee the library of manufcripts of
fome Francifcan friers. After that we pro-
ceeded to a good houfe, belonging to fome
perfon or other that had a fervant who
had been in England ; and laftly, we went
to fee the cathedral. Upon our return
dinner was ready, a good, but plain repaft.
When it was finiihed I took a walk, and
vifited the mother of a gentleman I knew
at Rome, where wre had fome mufic, but
the vocal part of it was greatly fpoilt, by
the accent of the inhabitants of this pro-
vince. It is a moll: wrretched dialect which
they fpeak here, and at Bologna. They
have got fuch a manner of lopping off the
vowels, that they make the Italian language
as rough as the Morifco,

Bib-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. ii^

Eibbiena, 9 o'clock in the morning,
Friday, July 10, 1 781.

I arrived here lafl night, but very late
and tired, being obliged to come quite on
horfeback through the horrid mountains I
have paffed. I fet out from Cefena about
fun-rife the day before yeiterday. We con-
tinued our journey very agreeably through
a fertile country for {even miles, when a
little inn offering itfelf to our view, the men
on foot, who took care of our horfes, ex-
prefTed their defire of drinking a little. We
flayed, however, but a fhort time, as the
men found the wine bad, and the proviiions
worfe, and proceeded in the fame li^anner and
order as we had fet out from Cefena. It
was as follows. Firfl of all marched the
fumpter horfe, attended by a man on foot.
Next came my perfon, feated on a dark
bay courfer. Not one of thofe, however,
foaled from mares impregnated by the
X 3 winds.

3i6 LETTERS FROM

winds. By his fide walked his matter to
take care of him and me in dangerous pafTes,
of which we were to expect many as
foon as

■ ■ ■ ■ thofe imperious cliffs,
Whofe haughty fummits Italy divide,
And to a thoufand provinces extend
Their fhaggy fides and far-commanding front
Of mountains the fupreme ■ ■

difcovered themfelves to our view.

The foregoing are fome lines of an Italian
poet upon the Apennines. The original is
as follows.

Re degli altri fuperbo altero Monte
Ch' Italia tutta imperiofa parte,
E per mille contrade e pLu comparte
Le fpdle, il rianco, e l'una e l'altra fronte.

The rear was brought up by my fervarit.

Our caravan was now arrived to a river
called Burdello, where, as the mountains
began, the roads began likewife to grow

bad.

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 327

bad. And, indeed, we took the worfl: road
of all, for there was one pretty good, but
Domenico, the matter of the horfes, for
fhortnefs, had made us take the former.
It was not only the worfl for the horfes,
but there were no accommodations for us.
Upon feeing the place where we were to
bait at dinner time, I thought myfelf re-
turned into Spain, As there was no inn, I
fat myfelf down upon the grafs, under
the made of a fp reading ever-green oak.
But I had not remained there long before a
venerable prieft came to me, and deiired
me to walk into his habitation, which was
near. After fome compliments, I complied
with his requeft. His houfe was but in-
different, however, you might fit down in
it, and were covered from the fun. He
furnifhed us too with fome wine, not very
good, but which was counterbalanced by
fome excellent cherries. The reft of our
dinner was what we had with us, which were

X 4 fome

323 LETTERS FROM

fome fowls, cheefe and bread, that the good
friars at Cefena had furnifhed us withal.

During our dinner in the priefVs or
curate's houfe, we were entertained with
the converfation of the under curate, wrho
ferved us at table while his principal retired.
In this miferable place no ceremonies were
to be made. We all fat down to eat toge-
ther at the fame board. In the mean time
the under curate talked of the prodigious
learning and knowledge of his mafter, whom
he called the arch-prieft. This was a word
he feemed mightily to like, as he was bring-
ing it out every moment. The arch-prieft
does this, and the arch-prieft does that,
and every doubt he had was determined by
the arch-prieft's having faid thus or thus.
" Pray what o'clock is it ?" "Oh lord ! fir, we
" have no clocks among thefe mountains, but
" the arch-prieft fays, " that when the fun
*' gets to the beginning of that door, it is
" mid-day." "Pray how many miles is it to

" San

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 329

& San Piero in Bagno ?" " Upon my word, fir,
" I can not tell exactly, for I have never been
" that road, but I think I have heard the arch-
" prieft fay, that it is about feventeen." In
fhort, fomehow or other, the word arch-prieft.
came out at every fentence. In the mean
time the arch-prieft I believe was gone to
deep, for I faw nothing of him. This arch-
prieft, in our language, is the parfon of the
parifh, who takes ecclefiaftical care of all the
fcattered inhabitants about thefe rocks. His
bufinefs is to fay mafs for them, vifit them
when fick, &c. After our Spanifh fort of
repaft was finifhed in the arch-prieiVs houfe,
I went out and extended myfeif under the
venerable oak, that I had intended mould
have afforded made during my dinner, if the
arch-prieft had not invited me within his
walls. As the fpot where we then were was
very high I had a diftant view of the Adria-
tic fea, tho' a great many miles from us.
Between me and the Adriatic firft of all lay
fome barren hills that I had pafl'ed, in an

opening

330 LETTERS FROM

opening between which I difcovered the rich
vale in which Cefena is fituated, and beyond
that the fea. But my eyes did not remain
Jong open to enjoy this profpecT. Every
thing feemed calculated to lull me to reft,
whilil

I yenticelii dibattendo 1' ali
Lufingavaiio il fonno de' mortali*

Anglice,
" Whilii the zephirs fanning the air with
fc their wdngs, foothed the repofe of mor-
" tals."

In ihort I flept for an hour and a half
under the made of this oak, with a gentle
wind breathing in my face. When I waked
a lizard was crawling upon my legs, and a,
little ferpent was about a foot from my head.
I flarted up, as you may imagine, but there
was no occafion for any fear, as neither the
one nor the other of thefe little animals are
poifonous. Indeed I have heard fay, that

lizards.

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 331

lizards when they grow to be very big have
fome poifon in them. But little ferpents,
you know, are quite innocent animals. Not
fo vipers. After having bid adieu to my
verdant bed, I returned into the arch-prieft's
houfe, where I gave him a little prefent for
the wine and cherries he had furniihed me
with. Upon receiving the money he preach-
ed me a ferrnon, upon the great trouble and
little gain of being curate among thefe moun-
tains. " Some of the houfes," fays he, " un-
" der my care are above five or fix miles off.
f ' You may think how difagreeable it is riding
" about to them in the winter time, when
M you can not fee your way for fnow. And
" the country people when they are a little
ft indifpofed fend for me as regularly as if I
ie was a phyfician. You know I can not
" deny going and adminiftring holy confola-
" tion to them.'* In fhort he ran on a great
deal jn this manner, and might have gone on
fo for ever, if the horfes being ready had not
called me away2 and made me take leave of

the

§32 LETTERS FROM

the loquacious arch prieft. Our little cara-
van then fet forward for San Piero in Bagno.
Nothing happened to us very particular till
our arrival there, when we found all the in-
habitants under tents in fields, having been
frightened with an earthquake. Tho' it was
near a month mice they had the laft fhock,
their apprehenlions continued this paftoral
life, and I pafTed the evening" with my friends
in a new and not difagreeable manner. I
flept, however, in their houfe at night, in
fpight of the initability of the earth, and,
tired with my journey, flept as found as if
nothing could move her foundations. In
fact they remained ftable, as the tumults
underneath her fur face are fublided. They
had, however, one or two itrong (hocks and
frequent little ones. But no great hurt has
been done. Two or three houfe s only were
damaged, and the roof of one fallen in.
The next day after dinner my entertainer
accompanied me upon a little mule, about
a couple of miles from San Piero in Bagno,
i to

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 353

to fet me forward upon my journey. We
paffed through the town of Bagno, which is
a mile from San Piero, and from the neigh-
bourhood of which San Piero is called San
Piero in Bagno, to diftinguiih it from many
other towns of the fame name. We took
leave of each other at the foot of a very
great mountain, which muft be paffed to
get over from the province of Romagna
into that of Cafentino. This, antiquarians
fay, was the mountain in pafling which
Hannibal loft his eye, by the extremity of
the cold.

Ditto, 9 o'clock at night.

M Y landlord, who is a phyfician, and my-
felf took a ride out this afternoon. I was
forced to hire a horfe, tho' I bought one, the
fate of which I will tell you in my next.
We went to two countrymens' houfes,
where there were two fick perfons, that he
was to vifit. The one was a man, and the

other

534 LETTERS FROM

other a woman* and they were both ill with
fevers. I have great pleafure in feeing the
behaviour of thefe nifties when a phyhcian
comes. They feem to think him a divinity*
or at leaft fomething more than mortah
And then they are fo inquiiitive about every
little particular, as, whether their broth is
to be drunk in the morning at nine o'clock*
or at nine and a quarter, and a thoufand
queflions of this nature. The country views
of the Cafentino are molt delightful at pre-
fent. All nature fmiles. But let us attend
her frowns a little upon the top of the alp
of Bagno, for fo is the mountain called,
which divides Romagna from Cafentino, that
being the neareft town to the foot of it.
I believe we were full two hours in getting
to the top. Contrary to moft mountains, its
fides are bare, and the fummit covered with
trees, with fine tall firs. Upon our arrival
at the pinnacle the province of Cafentino
lay expofed to our view, and a great def-
cent to get down to it. The fun was now

nearly

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 335

nearly fett'mg, which difpleafed us, as we
had much bad road to pais. When we
came to the bottom of the defcent we en-
tered the river Corfalone. This word en-
tered is to be taken in its literal fenfe, for
fix miles had we to go in the bed of the
river. No better road leads through thofe
craggy precipices which rofe on each fide of
me, while I threaded the opening made by
the torrent. Its bed is extremely large, with
very little water in it in the fummer time,
but being full of great ftones, borne by win-
ter floods, is dangerous at night, as you can
not then difcern the little path which guides
you through the midft of them. We had
however the moon in her firfl quarter to
affift us. But notwithstanding the glimmer
of her light we proceeded very (lowly and
badly till we emerged from the river, when
about an hour's ride brought us to Bibbiena,
but not till twelve o'clock at night.

LET-

336 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XXIX.

Bibbiena, 20 minutes after u, morning^
Wednefday, July 15, 1761.

IWILL now tell you the fate of the horfe
that was bought for me. My landlord had
perfuaded me to this, as being cheaper than
hiring. I wrote him word to do as he thought
befr, and he purchafed me a fine looking bay
ftone- horfe. The man that owned it faidj
it had belonged to the manage at Siena, but
that being old, he mould be glad to get rid of
it at a fmall price. This feemed a very pro-
per opportunity, as I only wanted a horfe for
a couple of months. My friend began the
treaty, and at lafl the horfe was delivered
over to him for the fum of eight zecchins,
(four pounds) and he brought him in triumph
to his ftable in Florence, thinking he had
made the belt, bargain in the world. The

horfe

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. J37

horfe looked fo well by his defcription that
his appearance alone would have made me
fufpect fomething. At length my friend
mounted him upon the firfl of July, to ride
him up here to Bibbiena, where he knew I
was to appear in two or three days. Grillo,
for that is my horfe' s name^ fet out with the
fineft grand pas imaginable. The people in
the ftreets flopped as he paffedj and made
ejaculations upon the beauty of the fteed.
In this glorious manner did my friend pro-
ceed j till he got to P'onte a Sieve, a town
about ten miles from Florence.. A little
before he entered it, he thought Grillo
ftumbledi He pulled up the bridle to check
him, but the horfe ftili continued rolling
forwards, and at laft he came quite down.
Not content with being upon his knees, he
turned immediately upon one fide, and re-
pofed the whole weight of his body upon
his rider's leg, who had not been expeditious
enough to difmount upon the horie's firft
coming headlong to the ground. The pride
Vol. Ill, ' . Y of

338 LETTERS FROM

of my friend was thus humbled in the duff.
But what he was reflecting upon at prefent
more than the recovery of his loft honors,
was how to extricate his leg from under the
fallen horfe. He thought the beft way was
to lift up his whip a little, and make him
get up by a ftroke or two. He did fo, but
notwithftanding he gave him two or three
fmart cuts, the poor animal did not ftir.
This, as you may imagine, furprized him.
He repeated and reinforced his flogs, but
Grillo remained equally infenfible. At laft
he thought it beff. to pull out his leg him-
felf from under the horfe. He did fo with
much difficulty, and to the no fmall damage
of his foot, which is not well yet. How-
ever, I hope the fprain he complains of will
be nothing of confequence. He was no
fooner delivered from durance than he began
to contemplate Grillo- He lay extended
upon the ground void of motion, except
what a fort of convulfive catch from time to
time communicated to his legs and body.

From

ITALY, GERMANY, Sec: 339

From his mouth proceeded a quantity of
foam* In the mean time the people of the
town, informed of the accident, began to
fwarm about the dying fteed, and among
others, the principal farrier of the place.
All agreed that the horfe Could not live,
and that it was better to finim his pain by
knocking him upon the head. The farrier's
lad was ordered to bring the fatal club.
The club, or rather mallet, was produced,
which had already in the butcher's mop pro-
ved definitive to many oxen. The hand
was already raifed that was to end Grille's
life, when the poor beafl, as if endued with
reafon, opened his eyes, lifted up his head,
and flared his executioner in the face. This
phenomenon fufpended the blow. In the
mean time Grillo having gazed a little upon
the country around him, got up. The peo*
pie gave a mout as if he had rifen from the
dead. The farrier now began to iniinuate to
my friend, that he thought his art might
entirely reflore the beaft. Accordingly lie
Y 2 was

340 LETTERS FROM

was conducted to his liable. You may ima-
gine there was fome difficulty in getting him
there, for tho' rifen upon his legs, he was
not fo firm upon them, but he fell down
every minute. However, by patience and
ftrength of men, and good and bad ufage,
they got him at laft into the farrier's horfe-
hofpital. In the mean time my landlord
went to fee an acquaintance of his, with
whom he had always intended to have paffed
the night, even if this accident had not
happened. In the morning he hired a mule
and continued his journey to Bibbiena, leav-
ing Grillo in the hands of the farrier, who
was proceeding with fire and Heel againft.
the diforder. At the Confuma, an inn in his
way, he wrote a note to the farrier, direct-
ing him how he thought it beft for him to
proceed with regard to the horfe. This note
in a few days brought him the following
anfwer to Bibbiena. The pompoufnefs of
the farrier perhaps will make you laugh,
and he feems to treat my friend, upon ac-
count

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 341

*

count of his being a phyfician, as his bro-
ther doctor.

" Ponte a Sieve, July 5, 1761,.
u Molt illuftrious and excellent Sir,

f< I received the note you was fo good
*6 to write to- me upon the road. The fignor
*' Potefla (the mayor or head of little towns)
" has received likewife that you wrote to
" him. Your moft wife opinion and deter-
" mination has the greatefl weight with me.
" I have the InVhefr. efteem for it, as I am
u thoroughly fatisfied of the great practice
" and experience you have. I know you have
" fludied much more than myfelf the art of
<c curing all infirmities. However, as I do
" not know whether your moft excellent
" fignorfhip has pra&ifed farriery fo much as
" myfelf, I trouble you with this to acquaint
c< you, that his great age can not have been
" the caufe of your horfe's illnefs, or elfe
tc he would not have been fo ftrong as we
W have feen him in, refilling the attacks of

Y 3 " his

.542 LETTERS FROM

" his diforder. And, for the firft two days,
a thefe attacks came upon him almofl every
*' half hour, with vacillation and giddinefs
" in his head, fo that he ufed to fall all on
" a fudden down upon the ground, feized
'f with tremblings, and incredible agitations
" and convuliive ftruggles. I will now
" briefly defcribe to you what our moll: cele-
" brated authors fay upon this matter. And
" in thefe attacks of apoplexy and falling
" iicknefs, which they certainly are, they
" ate all unanimous in the iymptoms and
*e caules, as alio in the regimen to be fol-
" lowed. Now thefe before-mentioned au-
*' thors, which are Vegetio, Ruini, and
■* Colombre, make no diflinclion between
" the two above-cited dilbrders, except that
<4 the horfe in the apoplexy, after having
" fallen down fuddenly, does not foam at the
*' mouth, and lies as immoveable upon the
" earth as if he were dead ; but in the falling
** ficknefs, or epilepfy, he ftruggles and emits
Y 4 " bava

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 343

" bava inftead of foam, and till the vicious
" matter, charging his head, abandons that
" poft, the animal remains opprefTed. The
" before-mentioned authors tell us, that
" this diforder is caufed by humours formed
t( in the- head, between the ikull and the
" dura mater of the brain, occupying fome-
" times all the concavities and membranes
l( there found. Now thefe humours are of a
" phlegmatic and melancholy nature, whe-
" ther liquid, or confolidated, or ventofe,
" and which the animal, upon account of the
" frigidnefs of the cerebrum, can not, by
" natural means, drive away or confume ;
•' and thefe, by their motion, confine the
<f animal fpirits, and aggravating the cellules
" of the animal virtue, caufe the fudden
" falling of the beaft, who lies extended
*' upon the earth, more or lefs opprefled by
" the fit, till they are removed. But thefe
" being repelled, the animal rifes up again
'* upon his legs, fuppofing, however, he
<c has not been too much ftunned by the

Y 4 " blow

344 LETTERS FROM

blows received in the paroxyfm. The
remedy of fire is the laft made life of by
the before-mentioned authors, but as I
have experienced that it is the moft fpeedy
and refolute remedy to allay the volatility
of thefe fpirits, I can not bring myfelf
voluntarily to protract, by not applying it^
a diiorder which every moment may caufe
death to the beait. What I do in this
cafe, is as follows. I burn various caute-
ries, and then rub his head often with
hot and ftrong vinegar (oh ! poor Grillo).
Every day I give him a clyfter for his
affiitance, in order that new humours
may not mount into his head, and I
anoint the wounds, made by the fire, with
ftrong oil, as well as his head likewife.
With regard to his interior, I have pro-
vided the following compound medicine,
to be drank by him, viz. (Then follow
a number of hard names of roots, and herbs,
mixed up with honey, which I will not
inc umber my paper with giving at length.)

" This

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 34S

'■ This receipt I intend he iriall take every
f other morning farting. I have already
" given it him twice. I keep the bit of a
" bridle, morning and evening, in his
" mouth, in order, by foam, to remove the
" humours from his head, and I always
" keep fome oriental pilatrum tied about it,
" which makes him purge at the mouth
f* better. I drefs his bruifes with cleaned
" hog's lard, and twice a day I cleanfe his
" cauteries, which have rendered him much
<f more capable of moving than he was, and
" I mould hope, before the week is out,
" that I mall make him able to return
" home at leafr. in two days. With regard
" to his diet, every day, morning and even-
" U1g> I giye mm a quartern of bran and
" two of oats, (according to Italian mea-
fures,) which I moiften with honey-water,
" and mix with frefh good grafs. You
,c may be affured that I make ufe of my befl
<c endeavours to do fervice to your mofr.
*' illuftrious and excellent lignorfhip, and

" myfelf

3+6 LETTERS FROM

" myfelf honor in the cure, not failing,
-"as I have before explained to you, to di-
" vert and fubtilize the peccant humours by
ie internal and external remedies. This be-
" ing all and every thing that I have to fay
<l to your moft illuftrious and excellent fig-
u norfliip, and impatient of being honored
tf with your moft efteemed commands, I
6( declare myfelf

" Your moft humble and
" obliged fervant,
u John Francis Capretti. *'

LET-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 347

LETTER XXX,

Bibbiena, half after 8 o'clock, evening,
Monday, July 20, 1761.

U N Saturday laft, taking a ride upon
the road towards Florence, I met my poor
refufcitated horfe Grillo, conducted by a lad
on foot, who had a letter from the farrier,
in which he thanked God and St. Anthony
for having been able to fend home the poor
animal entirely cured. But notwithftanding
his expreffions, fure never was fuch a bloody
fpedtacle feen. The remedy of fire had been
ufed with unmerciful prodigality, and the
unhappy creature was fcarified from head
to foot. Nor could he, without difficulty,
keep upon his legs. He reeled as if he was
drunk, I thought the man that accom-
panied him would never have been able to
get him up the hill before you enter Bib-
biena.

34S LETTERS FROM

biena. But his flow pace tired our patience,
and we rode on. Notwithftanding the place
where we left poor Grillo was not above a
mile from Bibbiena, I believe we got home
near two hours before he arrived. We were
afraid another fit of his falling ficknefs had
feized him upon the road, efpecially as there
was the hill to mount. He at laft however
appeared, _ but fo weak, that the whole vil-
lage came out to fee him as a curiofity. He
then trailed himfelf into the ftable, out of
which I thought he would never come again,
as he was attacked various times with his
fits. He ufed to fall down upon the
ground, and beat himfelf about the ftable in
a terrible manner. In fhort, affairs grew fo
bad, that we thought it beft to order him to
be killed. My friend's wife, however, by
her intreaties faved him from that fentence,
and we have fent him down to one of his
farms, where he will live, at little or no
expence, till nature deprives him of his mi-
ferable exiflence.

I have

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 349

I have been this evening to bathe in the
Arno, but notwithftanding the many rivers
which furround this place, there is none of
them very well adapted to the purpofe*
The water in them all is at prefent too mal-
low. Returning by a retired part of the
river, we faw fome nymphs performing the
fame office, but haftily retired, mindful of
the fate of Acteon. I have, inftead of infult-
ing them in their ablutions, fet up a little
weekly afiembly for their divernon. Four
fidlers have made us dance every thing that
was danceable, and the ruftic whirls of the
Trefcone, have been traced by Britifh feet'.
The juice of various fruits is given them
congealed by fnow, brought from the
mountain of the Alverna. The reverend
fathers, who dwell upon the fummit, give
it gratis to thofe who will be at the ex-
pence of fetching it. Sebaftian mixes it
with fait, whofe nitrous quality coagulates
the liquor in the veffel, which is turned
about in it. I fhall foon have a refpeclable

perfonage

3so LETTERS FROM

perfonage to partake of my frigid colla-
tion, for the the bifhop of Sammimato
is expected, and I flatter myfelf that
venerable prelate will honor me with his
prefence.

Bibbiena, one o'clock, afternoon.
Tuefday, July 21, 1761.

I have been vilited, this morning, by a
curious inhabitant of the village. This gen-
tleman came into my room with a grave
face, and told me he had a favor to beg of
me. I defired him to fit down and name
what I could do to be of fervice to him*
Sir, fays he, you are a learned gentleman,
and I am come to inform myfelf of a piece
of literature. I promifed him, that if I was
capable of anfwering his queftion, I would
do it to the befl of my knowledge. Pray,
fir, fays he, with gravity, can you tell me
the real value, in our money, of the antient
Roman As ? I was furprifed to hear fuch a

query

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 351

query proceed from a ruftic's mouth, for
my viiitor was little better. I affured him
however of my ignorance in all forts of an-
tiquarian knowledge. I told him, if he had a
mind to know the modern money of Rome,
I could tell him that exactly, fome having
paffed through my hands ; but that for the
ancient, as it was not current cafh, I had
not fo jttft an idea of its value. In fhort, I
faid fo much, that I believe the good gen-
tleman thought the demand he had made
rather out of the way, and turned the fub-
jec"t. A little time after, my landlord en-
tered the room, with his fword, cane, and
hat, and told me it was late. This broad
hint drove away my ruftic antiquarian, and
we all three fallied out of the houfe to-
gether, he taking the road home, and we
that to the Prepofitura, or habitation of the
propofto, who is the bimop's vicar. We
are in the diocefe of Arezzo I think.
Our vifit here was like other vifits, as
well as the reft we made, fo that I will
1 not

352 LETTERS FROM

not trouble you with them. In the laft

I had the pleafure of feeing part of the

operation of extracting filk from the filk*
worms webi

LET-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 3$$

LETTER XXXI.

Monday, half after ten at night*
July 27, 1761.

1 HIS evening I have been fwimming*
as there was no horfe to be had. My
landlord is not yet got well from his lame-
nefs. But what do you think, Grillo, my
horfe, that was given over as a loft fheep,
and fent down to a farm to graze and decay,
as a milder death than that caufed by the
explofion of powder, this fame given-over
Grillo is returned quite to life ? Standing
about an hour ago at the ftreet door, I faw
the groom trotting a horfe towards us that
feemed to have much fpirit. I would not
believe for a long time it was the poor weak
creature I had met with upon the road to
Florence a little above a week before. How-
ever, let him go ever fo well, I am fure I
Vol. III. Z will

554 LETTERS FROM

will never get upon Lis back, for what do 1
know but his vertigo may feize him again
upon the brink of fome of the precipices^
with which this country fo abounds. How-
ever, if we can get his bruifes to appear
well enough to fell at fbme fair or other,
that is all we want. Cheating in horfe-flefh
is no more a crime here than with us in Eng-
land. Not that I could have impudence
enough to declare Grillo was found. But
that I leave to the care of my landlord and
his fervants.

9 o'clock at night.

I was interrupted by the appearance of a
Neapolitan. This perfonage called himfelf
a poet, and defired us to let him fing fome
extemporary ftanzas in commendation of
our honors. We confented, and accord-
ingly, his guitarre being brought and tuned,
lie began to ling to it my praifes. You may
imagine the French were humbled, beat,

and

Italy, Germany, &c. 35$

and annihilated in his verfes. From hence
his hobbling mufe turned to my landlord,
and talked much about Hippocrates and
Galen. He then glanced to the ladies, and
made flourifhes about lovely eyes, fires*
flames and darts. This diverfion of extem-
porary verfes is what is very common in
Italy, in Tufcany particularly. Indeed,
there are fome of the people, who make a
profeilion of this art, that are furpriiing in
their readinefs at rhyming* However, thefe
Gothic jingles are much more plentiful in
the Italian language than in the Englifh.
The extemporary /pouters affifr. themfelves,
I imagine, by a fort of common-place poetry,
which they take care to have in their head.
For example, if they fpeak to an Englifh-
man, they have a fet of lines ready for that
nation ; the fame if they addrefs themfelves
to a Frenchman. They have others for
phyficians, lawyers, officers, and fo on :
but our Neapolitan was not one of thefe

Z 2 excellent

356 LETTERS FROM

excellent extemporarians. He made the queer-
ell: confufion of every thing imaginable.
However, he ferved to railea laugh for about
half an hour, and that was enough.

LET-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 357

LETTER XXXII.

Bibbiena, half after 5 in the evening,
Sunday, Auguft 2, 1761.

JL WENT this morning to make my vifi£
to Monfignor the bifhop of Samminiato,
who did not arrive till the day before yefter-
day. He received me with great politenefs
and affability. There were a number of
people at his levee; for in this little place
he makes the appearance of a great man.
I ftai; ' with him about the fpace of arf hour.
The converiation ran upon theatrical per-
formances. The prelate did not feem at all
to agree with us in our not obferving the
Unity of time and place, much lefs in our
killing upon the ftage. He talked the ufual
language upon this fubjecl:. Mentioned
Horace and Ariftotle, and other authors that
fpeak againfl thofe freedorn^ a? defects.

Z 3 All

353 LETTERS FROM

All that I could fay in defence of them was*
that tho' certainly our dramatic componYions
contradicted the eftablifhed rules of antiquity,
yet the liberty we took in them gave us an
opportunity of introducing many beauties,
of which their confined method of writing
was not capable. That I did not fee why
we were to be bound down to the maxims
of the ancients, except as far as thofe max-
ims were comformable to reafon and nature.
That there feemed to me nothing contra-
dictory to reafon in the perfonages of a play
moving from one fpot to another, or in the
time of the action's taking up the fpace of
two or three days. I did not deny, however,
that fome of our authors might abufe this
privilege, and particularly Shakefpeare, but
that the great beauty of his poetry made
ample amends for the incorrectnefs of his
pieces. With regard to killing upon the
flage, I confeiTed tliat our tragic authors
loved blood, and that, perhaps, we too often
introduced fcenes of murder upon the theatre,

How*

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. ZS9

However, that as our actors were ufed to
thefe kinds of reprefentations, they died
with a much better grace, and more naturally
than any Italian could poffibly do. Thus
I defended our party againfr. the bifliop as
well as I could. We talked befides of many
other things, till at laft ourconverfation glan-
ced to natural hiftory. We here wondered at
the prodigious number of (hells found every
where almoft among the mountains in Italy.
It is really furprifmg how they fhould come
there, and fome of them many feet under
the furface of the earth. Indeed, I believe
many of thefe natural curioiities are to be
found with us in England, but not in fuch
quantities. They feem a proof that the
furface of the earth muft have undergone

o

fome coniiderable changes. ■ Nor does the
Mofaical account of the deluge explain thefe
phenomena. It might have left fhells upon
the furface of the earth, but it could never,
I mould think, have buried them in the
depth of mines. No reafonable folution
Z 4 has

360 LETTERS FROM

has yet been given of this wonderful quan-
tity of marine fubftances found in the
bowels of the earth, and it feems one of
thofe fecrets which the Author of nature
has chofen to hide from the inquiiltive. re-
fearches of men. After this difquiiition the
converfation rolled upon the government of
England, which was commended.

L E

T»

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 361

LETTER XXXIII.

Bibbiena, a quarter after 9, morning,
Sunday, Auguft 9, 1761.

Si

G N O R Andrea, my landlord's brother,

has been to make me a viiit this morning.
During the time of his ftay with me we
had a furious ftorm of thunder, lightning,
wind, and hail, the latter fo big, that I
believe it will do much damage to the vines
and the young grapes upon them. It broke
the windows on the other fide of the houfe.
The people even fhrieked to fee their beloved
vineyards a prey to the angry elements, and
they fay if only one grape is bruifed by the
hail the nitrous quality of it deftroys the
whole branch. But the wine here is in great
abundance with no vent, which renders it
lefs valuable. Our converfation in the mean
£*mie turned upon the political and juridical

regulations

$6i LETTERS FROM

regulations of Tufcany. We talked about
the fucceffion to eftates of perfons dying in-
teflate. Amongft us the elder brother has
all, here it is divided equally among them.
Certainly with regard to equity the Tufcans
furpafs us. It is undoubtedly unjnlt becaufe
you are born a year after your elder brother,
that he is to have every thing, and you be
almofl: a beggar. But if we are to conlider
which is of moll: ufe to the commonwealth,
I think without doubt it is our method.
The eldefl brother, by having the greateft.
part of the fortune, is able to keep up the
family with dignity and fplendor. Thofe
who have had the ill luck to come later into
the world are obliged to follow fome profef-
fion, and confequently, be of ufe to tbe
community. But here, by the eftates being
divided between five or fix brothers, they
have all enough to live idly upon, and nei-
ther of them fufficient to make a figure.
This is, without doubt, thecaufe of fee-
ing fo many poor infignificant noblemen in
z Italy,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 363

Italy, and their titles as well as their eftates
are common. However in iome families they
have a majorafco eflablifhed, or a portion of
the eftate fettled upon the eldefl fon, which
reduces things a little to our plan. This is
the cafe in my landlord's family, and they
have an odd way of making the entail. His
anceftors gave the property, fo intended to b
tied down, to the order of St. Stephen, a
Tuican order of knights inftituted by the
grand dukes. JLike all others of the kind in
Italy it has certain benefices or commendas
dependent upon it. Thefe are in the gift of
the head of the order, which is the grand
duke, who, you know, is at prefent the em-
peror of Germany. Now lands are given to
thefe orders in truft. for the eldefl male chil-
dren of a family, by which the order gets
the right of patronage, and the fucceflive
povTeflbrs have the privilege of hanging St.
Stephen's crqfs upon a bit of ribband to their
button-hole. But this my landlord can not
$year, for the nrofemon of phytic is a degra-
dation

5^4 LETTERS FROM

elation from knighthood, as this country ex-
cludes both medicine and jurifprudence from
the lift of honorable profeffions. And yet
my landlord's uncle was physician to Don
Carlos the prefent king of Spain, when he
fell ill of the fmall pox at Leghorne, upon
his fir ft landing in Italy, as heir to John
Gaftone the then grand duke. What a
change has Tufcany undergone fince then,
and who would have believed that it was
ever to pafs under the power of the Ger-
mans ? Don Carlos, the fecond fon of Phi-
lip the fifth, comes into Tufcany to fuc-
ceed John Gaftone, who had no ifiue. He
and his attendant Spanim troops are received
almoft as mafters, even while the old grand
duke lived. In the mean time the kingdoms
of Naples and Sicily are conquered from the
Auftrians. Don Carlos goes there to reign,
and at the making up a peace the Spaniards
entirely give up Tufcany to the emperor,
who in return cedes Lorraine, all he then
had, to France in reverfion, after the death

Of

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 365

of Staniflaus, titular king of Poland, and
father-in-law to Lewis the fifteenth. The
queen of Hungary likewife gave up her pre-
tentions to the kingdom of the two Sicilies,
with this provifb however, that if ever Don
Carlos came to reign in Spain, his brother the
duke of Parma ihould fucceed to Naples,
and the prefent ftates of the infant Don Phi-
lip be given up to the queen . Don Carlos is
at prefent upon the throne of Spain, but his
fon, not his brother, is king of Naples, and
the dutchies of Parma and Placentia are ftill
in the pofleffion of the infant. His catholic
majefty thought his fon nearer than his
brother, and both much more connected
with him than the houfe of Auftria. He
may attribute, I believe, the quiet palling of
thefe affairs to the king of Pruffia, whofe arms
have found the emprefs queen other em-
ployment than enforcing the treaty of Aix-
la-Chapelle.

LET-

366 LETTERS FROM
LETTER XXXIV.

Bibbiena, Auguft 16, 1761^
Sunday morning 11 o'clock.

JL^ AST Thurfday, as it was the anniver-
fary of the feaft of St. Hippolitus, the
patron of this place, there were great doings
for a little village. The propoflo or provoft,
gave a general dinner to all the gentlemen
and ladies. The bifhop of Samminiato was
there. After dinner a butt of wine was
diftributed to the poor of the place. As it
flowed in a fort of fountain, there was
much fcrambling for it, and fome broken
heads given and received. When the liquor
flowed no more, we all adjourned to the
church, where a declamation was made us
by a gentleman of the place, which being
fmifhed, various pieces of poetry were pro-
duced. The fubje£t, which was the fame
for the declamation as for the poetry, you
will think very dry. It was whether Con-
flantine was chridened in Rome or in Con-

flanti-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. j67

frantinople.* The ufual theme was gene-
rally the life and actions of St. Hippolittis.
But the fame fubjecl: had been continued
for fo many years, that they were quite
tired of it, and accordingly they agreed to
alter it to fomething elfe, and the propofto
chofe the before-mentioned elegant fubjecl:
for poetry. We were talking about this
two or three mornings before, at the pro-
pofto's. I there ventured to tell him that
the theme propofed, as connTting in a
learned difquifition, feemed to me not very
proper for the declamations, and much lefs
for the mufes ; that in my opinion fome fub-
ject where the paffions could be interefted
ought to be chofen, as for example, " whe-
" ther St. Peter, when he heard the cock
" crow, felt the moft intenfe grief, or Mary
" Magdalene, when me beheld our Saviour
" extended upon the crofs ? '* This was a thing

* He was chriflened at neither, but at Nicomedia, by
Eufebius, bifhop of that city, and a little before his death

I faid

^63 LETTERS FROM

I faid without thinking or reflecting, ima-
gine then my furprize, when, after every per-*
fon had finifhed rehearfing their compofitions,
the propofto flood up, and,"" Gentlemen,
" fays he, the fubjecT: for the return of this
" annual feftival is, Whether St. Peter after
*' having denied his mafter, and hearing the
" cock crow, felt more internal grief than
" Mary Magdalene when fhe beheld the Savi-
" our of the world expiring upon the crofs."
I would have flopped him, but he went on,
and accordingly this is the fubjecl: for the en-
fuing year. It was dark before all was finifh-
ed and we got out of the church, where wc
had been feated in a fort of ring before
the principal altar. The propoflo carried us
a fecond time to his prepolitura, or lodge,
which is jufl by the church, and treated us
with water-melons in quantity, cooled in ice.
T?his indeed, is a cuftomary obligation upon
him every year, but the dinner was volun-
tary. The evening pafied at the bifhop of
Samminiato's, where mofl of the ladies and

gentlemen

IfALY, GERMANY, &c. 369

gentlemen adjourned. Converfation and cards
went forward in the fame manner as in our
meetings of that kind in England. Thus
fmiflied St. Hippolitus's day.

The life and martyrdom of this mighty
patron of Bibbiena is as follows. I have
taken it from a laft year's declamation. It is
in an oratorical ftyle*

" Behold him in his tender years, armed
lt with fword and helm, and fighting under
c< the Emperor Decius in the fervice of his
" country, that country which boafted as
(* many foldiers as it had citizens, and whofe
" triumphant eagle extended its wings over
" the whole world. But while he was
" humbling the enemies of his native Rome,
*' he did not lefs attempt to conquer thofe
" internal foes, the paffions, and animated
" by a ray of the true religion, directed every
et ftep to that end. Nor could the prudent
J* youth find a better manner of triumphing

Vol, III, A a •« over

j7o LETTERS FROM

<c over the flattering power of the world/
" than bv humbling the defires of nature*
" and devoting himfelf to the laws of evan-
<e gelical perfection. To point him out the
'* way to this he had the advantage of hav-
*' ing no ordinary example. He was order-
" ed to be upon guard when St. Lawrence
" was burnt alive upon the flaming coals,
M The heroical behaviour of that martyr in
" the midil of his torments, animated by the
* moft lively expreffioiis of love and zeal,,
*' had fuch an effect upon the youth, that he
tc refolved from the very moment to leave
" the noble profeffion of war, in order to!
" practife with greater fervor, than it was
*4 pofiible to do amrdft. the tumults of arms,.
" the virtues of devotion, faith, and charity,
<c Pulling up- his beaver, he declared himfelf
" publickly a Chriftian, nor were riches or
frt ambitious hopes capable of retraining his
" defires for the palm of martyrdom. The
** emperor Decius hearing that Hippolltus
*4 had declared himfelf openly to be a Chrif-

" tian,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 37*

et tian, while he was upon guard, ordered
•* him to be brought into his prefence.

V Upon the appearance of the noble youth,
Ki what flattering temptations did not he
i{ make ufe of to feduce his conftancy, but
" finding it inflexible to entreaties, he at-
*f tempted to make it by threats. Thefe
" however* proving equally unavailing, and
c* his prior love towards Hippolitus being

V now ail converted into fury, he ordered

V fome ftones to be thrown at him, which
fi wounded him to fuch a degree upon the
"mouth, that he ftained the ground -about
*■ him with his flowing" blood, that blood
u which rendering fruits tenfold, proved
" the rich feed of future Chriftians. After
" this he was conducted into prifon. But
" why do I fay into prifon ? It was the
" happy habitation his heart had been fo long
" deiirous of obtaining. The importunate
" incitements of his relations, his extent' ve
** riches and 'increafing honors, had before
lt hindered him in fome meafure from ani-

A a z •■*• ving

372 LETTERS FROM

" ving to that perfection for which he fighecl,
" I fay in fome meafure, for even then with
" difdainful eye did he behold the flattering
" allurements of the world, and deliver him-
" felf into the arms of mortification. But
" now he was content. Horror and dark-
'* nefs reigned around him, incapable how-
" ever of obfcuring thofe zealous flames,
" which burned within his breafl. In the
•• mean time rnofl of the fervants of Hip-
<s politus, excited by the example of their
" mailer, abandoned their errors and deter-
" mined to follow the holy crofs, that ban-
•* ner of true glory. Decius upon hearing
" this ordered them all to be beheaded, and
" they died glorious martyrs to our facred
fl religion. The tyrant enraged at their in-
*' trepidity, and considering Hippolitus as
" the caufe of it, full of anger and difdain
" gave orders to the prefect Valerian for his
" puniihment. The invincible youth, after
" being flripped naked, had firft of all his
" flefh combed and torn with iron curry-

6i combs.

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 373

*c combs. But I mould excite too much
" horror in my audience, if I was to recount
u one by one the various torments which
M our patron fufFered. He in the mean
u time, with ferene countenance, feemed
" more ready in the receival, than his ex-
" ecutioners in the application of them,
** baffling with holy ardor the vain at-
M tempts of impious cruelty. The em-
" peror finding all his ideas of humbling
" the youth's zealous fpirit vain, gave the
" final fentence to the prefect, who was
t( to inflict upon him the moft cruel death
" imagination could fuggeft. Accordingly
" his innocent limbs were fattened to the
" tails of four untamed courfers, who gal-
" loping furiouily different ways, reduced
" to atoms the earthly part of our holy
" martyr ; the divine flying to that hea-
" ven where it afpired, exchanged a pre-
** carious mortal life, for eternity and
*•' happinefs,

A a 3 The

374 LETTERS FROM

The author concludes his declamation by
the following invocation.

" To thee, generous champion, do the
%i devout inhabitants of Bibbiena addrefs
" themfelves, aflembled here to celebrate
" and hymn thy triumphs. They hum-
*' bly offer up their vows to thee and imr
" piore thy gracious protection. Shower
" down bleffings upon our town, and con-?
" fecrate it by thy falutary influence, that
*{ imitating thy victories, and following
'* the example of thy virtues, we may ar-
" rive to that glorious heighth of happi*-
" nefs, which in company with the other
Ci faints and martyrs thou now enjoyeft.

Monday, Auguft 17, 8 o'clock,

morning.

I was yeflerday afternoon at the convent

of St. Mary's to hear a panegyric in praife

of St. Domenico, of which order thofe

friers are. After the prior had finiiTied a

Bowery

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 375

flowery declamation upon that perfecuting
faint, we were conducted into his roorn^
where he gave us ices of different forts, me-
lons and other good things. The himop was
there with a large company of us who had
dined with him. He was to confeerate fome
clones in the church. You may wonder
what ufe the friers can have for facred ftones,
but they want to erect a new altar-piece, the
ftones of which mult be fanctihed, and none
but a bifhop can give them the proper degree
<?f holinefs.

A a 4 LET-

376 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XXXV.

Bibbiena, 9 o'clock in the morning,
Tuefday, Auguft 25, 1761.

JL* AST night I found a fcorpion in my
writing defk. It was open, and I was juffc
going to bed, when I faw the black animal
crawling about my papers. I called Sebaflian,
who fhook him off the writings upon the
ground. The fcorpion, finding himfelf dif-
turbed, began to run away about as fail as
a fpider. However, Sebaflian's great foot
foon flopped his courfe by crufhing him to
death. It was but a young fcorpion, and of
a fmall fize, They now and then are nearly
as big as cray-fiih, which {hey fomething
refemble. How frightened we are in Eng-
land at the name of them, and yet they are
Jiere little more regarded than fpiders. I
wgs ipeaking to a gardeners wfto was flung

fry

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 377

by one, and faid the wound was very bad
indeed. u No, fir, cried he, I was not
" well for three whole days ;" an idea
very different from the fatality, which we
generally attribute to that poifon ; but I will
not deny that it may be worfe in hotter
countries. They are feldom to be found in
houfes, but under flower-pots in gardens,
and thofe places. The fcorpion, I think,
is the only poifonous animal they have
here in Italy more than we in England.
There are, indeed, a number of lizards, but
very few of them are venemous. As for
adders, toads, and thofe other difgufting
animals we have them as much as the
Italians, tho' perhaps the adders and vipers
have rather more venom in hotter climates.
But I fay wrong when I affert there are no
more poifonous animals, for in Apulia, a
province of the kingdom of Naples, there is
the tarantula, tho' the ftory they tell about
curing its bite by mulic is apochryphal. I
do not, indeed, doubt but that they make

the

37$ LETTERS FROM

the people who are bit by this little animal
in Apulia dance to the found of a fiddle, but
whether this is only an idea the country
people have among themfelves, or whether
it does the patient any good, is. what I can
not tell. You know Apulia is a remote
province, and the people confequently igno-
rant, and why may not queer itories and
beliefs be current among them as well as in
many of our diftant counties in England,
and the itory of fecond-fight in Scotland,
As we have a terrible idea with us of the
poifonous animals in Italy, we have not a
very favorable notion of the number of wild
beafls we imagine they have. Now 1 do
not know of any favage animal that roams
their forefls more than ours, except bears and
wolves. They have, indeed, wild boars,
but thofe are fo far from being accounted
noxious, that they have almoft as ftrict laws
in their defence as our game. The flem is
very much efleemed here in Italy, and its
wild tafle, at fjjrft like tainted meat, becomes

after*

ITALY, GERMANY, &c 379

afterwards very agreeable. When I was
lad in this country, I went once out a boar-
huniing at Pifa, in a foreft there is juft by
that town. I could not, however, carry a
gun, as you mull have a particular licenfe
to do it in that foreft, which belongs to the
emperor. The way they hunted the wild
boar was as follows. The huntfmen placed
themfelves at different pofts in the wood, by
which it was likely the boar would pafs.
Two other men in the mean time went to
the other fide of it with a couple of dogs,
and beating about, and making a great
noife, drove out the boars to the places
where the men were difperfed with their
guns. I confefs I did not like my fituation,
in being obliged to go and fraud On foot by
a huntfman, and truii to his piece, while
they were driving all the boars down upon
us. The men fhouting, the dogs barking, and
the boars grunting through the woodlands,
did not at all pleafe me. An eafy tree to
climb, offering on my right hand, I thought

I had

380 LETTERS FROM

I had better fave my fkin, and look like
Sancho Panca. Accordingly, I got up, and
having feated myfelf in fecurity upon one of
the branches, looked round. It was not a
great while before a boar appeared grunting
along by the poft of the man near my tree.
He did not fire at him, I do not know why,
but the man at the next poft. made up for
this deficiency, and maimed both his fore-
legs by a ball, which paffed through his
fhoulder blades. As they faid he could not
run, I ventured to come down from my
afylum, and look at him. I faw him rolling
about upon the ground, with one of the
dogs upon him. The man had jufl charged
his piece again, and approaching the grijly
monjler^ fhot him through the head. Upon
the report of the mufket, all the people
affembled to the place where we were. We
began examining the mighty tulks of our
prize, which, however, were not fo large as
fome I have feen, upon account of the boar's
jseing young.

Bibbiena,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 3S1

Bibbicna, 9 o'clock in the morning.
Wednefday, Auguft 26, 1761.

THE wolves and bears, with which we
fay Italy is fo flocked, give not the terrible
idea here as with us in England, tho' there
are certainly many of the former, and fome
few of the latter. As to bears, I mean thofe
not having a human form, they are very
rare, and only in fome of the high uninha-
bited woody mountains, and never appear
out of their gloomy recedes to in fell parTen-
gers. Much lefs wolves, which are more
timid animals than we imagine, except
driven by extreme hunger; and if king
Edgar gave fo much money to have them
extirpated out of England, it muft have been
for the fake of his fubjecVs lliecp, and not
of their perfons. Returning laft time through
the Alps to England, I faw one in a field,
which I imagined to be a dog, but the
jxjftilion aflured me it was a wolf, and began

hallooing

382 LETTERS FROM

hallooing, upon which it retreated in a
heavy gallop under cover.

With regard to the tarantula, my land-
lord, who was in Apulia, as phyfician to the
Spanilh army* lays, " that the making the
u perfons dance who are bit by the little
" fpider is true, but agrees with me in its
" being only a popular prejudice, and that it
" can not poffibly be of any fervice to the
*c patients, without it is by making them
" perfpire, and this, he fays, they do plen-
** tifully; for the only two months the
u tarantula is venemous are the hotteil
" in the year, thofe of July and Augufr.
He made me laugh with a ftory he told me
of a little French boy he had when he was at
Palermo. The poor lad was bit by a fpider,
which are here more venemous than in Eng-
land. His mafter being abroad, the boy told
his cafe to the other fervants of the houfe.
They had the impudence to allure him it was
a tarantula, and in order to make fun, fidlers

were

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. |«J

Were called in, and the ignorant youth wa3
ordered to dance for his life. Pierre, for
that was Ins name, in a fright, and half
crying, began throwing his legs and arms
about in an aukward manner. In fhort, they
made him caper round the room for above a
couple of hours, to the tune of the tarantella,
the name of a barbarous jig, compofed pur-
pofely for this occaiion. When the boy
was quite tired, they put him to bed, where
his mailer found him upon his return home.
When he came to the bed-fide to afk what
was the matter, the poor youth burft out
into tears, and with a long face laid, ah I
won chere maitre, je fuh empo'ifonne. But tell
me how all this happened, fays my landlord.
Ah ! Monfieur, anfwers Pierre, regardez,
regardez, mewing his arm. What has any
thing bit you ? Oui, Monfieur ", he/as ! la
tarantule, la tarantule, Monfieur. His maf-
ter was not a little aftoni(hed to hear
of tarantulas in Palermo, but going out to
make enquiries among the other fervants,
t the

■384 LETTERS FROM

the affair was foon difcovered, and Pierro
relieved from his anxiety. Some fuch ftory
as this, I dare fay, led Doctor Mead aftray,
when he wrote his treatife upon poifons, and
laid down mime and dancing as a cure for
the bite of a tarantula. This little animal
is a fort of reddifh fpider. Very few per-
fons, however, except reapers, are ever bit
by thefe noxious infects, as they are feldom
to be found, except in the fields, and among
corn. This is reaped in the two hotteft
months of the year, juft when that little
animal has the greateft venom. Not only
the tarantula, but fcorpions and all other
venemous animals are more noxious in the
months of July and Auguft, in fhort, in
fummer than in winter. The more power-
ful fun, that brings to greater perfection the
fruits of the earth, as it has greater virtue
in its beneficent, has likewife more force in
its peftiferous effects. And that not only
in ripening all poifons to a greater degree of
infection, but in extracting more fatal vapours

from

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 3S5

from the bofom of the earth. And theft
caufe the unwholefome air there is at certain
times of the year in parts of Italy, and par-
ticularly in low marfhy places. As for ex-
ample, the Campania of Rome is almoft. en-
tirely deferted upon that account. And
yet anciently it is faid to have been very
much inhabited, and very well cultivated.
But perhaps that inhabitation and cultivation
might be the caufe of the vapours not pro-
ducing their fatal influence. However, Ju-
venal tells us that

ti Provida Pompeio dederat Campania fcbres
" Optandas." —

But great men may have fevers any where*
when the never-dying worm gnaws upon
the mind.

What 1 1 wonder at is that Spain, tho' a
warmer country than Italy, is not fubjed to
this tainted air. Perhaps, there falling little
or no dews throughout the greateft part of

Vol. III. B b that

386 LETTERS FROM

that peninfula may be the caufe, which,
tho' conducive to health, is no advantage to
the fertility of the foil. What I fpeak here*
however, will principally hold good with
regard to the province of Andaluiia. The
climate of the kingdoms of Valentia and
Catalonia refembles more that of Italy. For
as Spain is a large territory, you may ima-
gine there is a conliderable difference between
her particular provinces or kingdoms, as fhc
pleafes to term them. But the Italians may
have more apprehensions of this bad air than
it deferves. I do not doubt its having fome
effect, but the thinking it fatal to move
from one houfe to another only three doors
off, as the common people imagine at Rome,
feems to be carrying the idea too far. The
Romans have a notion that by ileeping every
night in the fame place the bad air has no
power over you, but that if you do but go
and lie down in a bed in the next houfe, you
are to die. However, in consequence of this
idea, there is a law at Rome that no landlord

can

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 3S7

can oblige a tenant to quit a houfe during
the months of July and Auguft, and till the
firft rains in September ; or, if it is a dry
feafon, tho' indeed it feldom fails raining in
that month, the whole of it.* But tho1 I
blame the too great timidnefs of the Ro-
mans, I will not deny that what they fay is
in part true, as founded upon experience*
It Was in confequence of this opinion among
the inhabitants of Rome, that the Commen-
dator d'Almada, when by the king of Por-
tugal's order he commanded all Portuguefe
fubjecls to quit that capital, gave them the li-
berty of remaining till the end of the month of
September, cloathing this conceffion with
fpecious eXpreffions of the great affection his
moft. faithful majefty had for his fubjects,
and that he would not even expofe them to
imagined dangers. That, therefore, during all

* This idea is now greatly exploded at Rome, tho' part
©f the country about it is certainly very unvvholeiome,
and even fatal during the before mentioned months.

Bb z the

J

$8 LETTERS FROM

the dog-days to the end of the month of Sep-
tember they might remain peaceably in their
prefent fituation. Almada himfelf, however,
left Rome immediately, (indeed, he could
not help it,) and palling through Florence,
went to Turin, where he is at prefent,

LET-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 389

LETTER XXXVI.

Bibbiena, half after 10, morning,
Sunday, Auguft 30, 1761.

Went out to take a ride yeflerday evening
with my landlord and viiit a countryman
that was ill at San Piero in Fraffina, a little
village ahout two miles from hence. Upon
our arrival we alighted at a gentleman's
houfe, the head perfon in the place, one
of whofe labourers was the patient. He
received us very civilly. The furgeon of
our village was likewife there, and made
us accelerate our vifit to the lick man. He
was come over from Bibbiena by order of
the doctor, who, as he had heard a bad
account of his patient, had told him to
bring a couple of bliflers. Upon my friend's
firfl feeing him, he fainted him and afked
him if he had brought what he ordered,
B b 3 «< Yes,

S9o LETTERS FROM

" Yes, that I have," fays the ill looking*
executioner to the faculty, " and horfe ones
" too, for fuch muir. they be for thefe
" country beafts." Tho' the anfwer may feem
to you not to be entirely confonant to the
laws of humanity, it ferved however, to
make us laugh. Surgeons with us do not
carry about blifters, but you rauft confider
in what a country place we are, and that
every profeffor in it muft be a kind of jack
of all trades, befides who could tell but there
might be occaiion for fhedding blood, or
proceeding with fire and fteel, like my far-
rier, againfr. the diiorder. Upon our enter-
ing the cottage of the invalid we occu-
pied the little kitchen of it. My landlord,
as proio-medicus, took the firfr, place. On
his countenance fat the gravity necefTary
to the faculty upon fimilar occafions. Next
him was placed the furgeon, who looke4
as if he was revolving in his mind the be-
fore mentioned fanguinary ideas. In the
two inferior places fat the fo^uire and my-

felf.

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 29l

felf, who tho' we were not much interefted
in the event of the prefent weighty debate,
yet veiled our looks with a fympathetic feri-
oufnefs. Well, fays my friend, with au-
thority, to a man and woman that flood
oppoiite to him, " declare to me the nature
" of the patient's cafe." " Oh ! lord fit,*"
fays the woman, " I am fure I do not know
<e what is the matter, now and then he's
" hot, and now and then he's cold, and
*' then he begins fleeping, and fleeps, lord
*' blefs my heart ! as if he never intended
" to wake again. I am fure he (lept fo
M much yefterday, that I was obliged to go
" and call the prieffc to try and wake him
€t by faying prayers to him. And then he
" has not been to flool, no, not for thefe
" three days. I am fure I had rather fee
" fomething come out of him, than a piece
" of gold. And yet we have given him all
li the niceft things we could to nourifri him,
*' but he does not feem to take them with a
** bit more relifh than nothing at all. I am
B b 4 (' fure

^92 LETTERS FROM

/ fure I have not flept for thefe three nights
" for fitting up watching him, and I have
" kept his bed and his room as much m
' order as I could, and I have cleaned the
" walls at the head of his bed, and I put
" him on a clean fhirt yeflerday, for to be
*' fure he had wore the other a matter of a
" fortnight, and it was fo dirty you coul4
" hardly fee a fpeck of white in it, and yet
" notwithftanding for a countryman his
ci linen is very white." " I do not doubt it,'1
fays the doctor, f.f but I want to know at:
*' prefent the ftate of my patient, not that
" of his linen. Does he do this ? — Yes,
?? Does he do that? — Yes. Does his head
" pain him ? — Yes. Very well. Now then
*( let us proceed to perfonal examination."
" And accordingly we went in procefiion
into the patient's room. Upon our en-
trance .into the fick man's apartment many
queftions were made and anfwered, Tho'
he had a violent fever upon him, yet he was
not found fo bad as was expedled, and all

thoughts

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 393

thoughts of the horfe-blifters were laid
afide till another opportunity. Nothing I
think was ordered but a clyfter and fome
other emollient things. In the mean time the
eyes of the woman hung upon the doctor,
as if to read his thoughts concerning the
fate of her hufband. At length me afked, as
if addreffing an oracle, what he thought
would be the event of the diforder. The
dodor gave her ambiguous hopes, that with
care her hufband would recover. " Oh! blefs
<f your heart, fays fhe, and do you think fo ?
ie Well, I am fure I have prayed day and night
*' for it to the blefled Virgin. But pray what
" mud I give him to eat, for poor thing it has
" no nourifhment at all in its ltomach, and we
" have a nice young kid jufr. killed, in the
f houfe? Kid I replied the doctor, flaring,
" give him fome tea and other diluting li-
" quors." As this Indian herb is only ufed me-
dicinally in Italy, me did not feem to know
very well what it meant, but being informed
that fhe might get it at the apothecary's, fhe
2. appeared

394 LETTERS FROM

contented, and a fine beverage I fuppofe me
will make of it. She then took out a little
roll of paper from the corner of her pocket
handkerchief, in which I fuppofe was money,
as me gave it the doctor, who feemed to re-
ceive it without confidering the hard hands
from whence it was wrung. However mil-
lings go here as far as guineas in England,
but having got what we wanted, we left the
room in the fame order we entered it. Upon
bur return to the fquire's we were peftered all
the way with country people coming to
afk our opinion of difeafes, women with
abortions, girls with hylterics and I do not
know what all. After ftealing a trophy of
flowers from the fquire's garden, we returned
home.

Yefterday before I went out on horfeback
a curious fcene pafled in my room. As my
landlord and 1 had laughingly told a folitary
Jew merchant eftablimed here, that we in-
tended to make him a Chriftian, and that

then

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 395

then we would nVht which fhould have him
the Roman catholics or the proteftants, yef-
terday being his fabbath, (faturday,) and ha-
ving nothing to do, he appeared with a great
book under his arm. When he was entered
into my room he fat down with civility and
gravity, and opened his formidable tome,
which proved to be a Hebrew bible, telling
me, that now he was ready to difpute with
me. My landlord was below ftairs looking
at his horfe. I fent to defire him to come up,
which accordingly he did, and having heard
of Sabbath the Jew's great book, he {talked
in majeftically with a frill greater, which
was a collection of the lives of faints. Sab-
bath very civilly enquired what ftupendous
volume that might be, and when he was in-
formed it was a legendary of faints, faid very
humbly that he hoped we would excufe him,
if he did not give any credit at all to its au-
thority. I could not avoid joining him in my
cjoubts of the whole of it being true. My
landlord too feemed alfo to give it up by

fhuttimj

396 LETTERS FROM

fhutting its enormous page. Upon this we
recurred to a Latin bible, but Sabbath told
us he knew nothing of the language, and
cleared us to tell him the chapter and verfe
of our quotations, and he would recur to his
own book. The firft paffage we felected was
the famous prophecy in Genefis, that " the
" fcepter mall not depart from Judah until
" Shiloh come," which the Latin verlion
renders the Mefliah, or, qui mittendus eft ; but
the Jew faid he could find no fuch verfe in
the original. Not being able to contradict
him, from our ignorance in the Hebrew Ian*
guage, we took fhelter under the well known
words of, fi a Virgin fhall conceive and bear
" a fon ;" but Sabbath told us the expreffion
meant only a young woman in his book, and
that the fact came to pafs in the days of He-
zekiah. We then ranfacked our memories
for the other prophecies in the old teftament,
relating to Chrift, but Sabbath knocked us
down with texts he recited in Hebrew, of
which we could not underhand a word. The

fury

GERMANY, ITALY, &c. 397

fury having once feized him, he began read-
ing and overwhelming us with the Hebrew
bible, and would have put ns to the rout for
want of being capable to return any anfwer,
if we had not been informed that the horfes
were ready, which ended our converfation
and dispute.

Upon my word I efteem the Jews a very
particular nation to be fo perfeculed as they
are every where, and yet not abandon the
faith of their ancestors. The courage alfo
with which fome of them maintain their reli-
gion in fpight of oppofition is not a little re-
markable. Yefterday when we were laughing
and faying to Sabbath, " ah ! never fear we
** will make you a ChrifHan in time." " No,
" fays he, gentlemen, it is impoflible. Tho'
" I do wrong to fay it is impoflible, for God
66 may deprive me of the light of reafon, how«
" ever while the leaft ray of that remains there
*c is no fear of my not continuing firm to my
" religion." One that was executed at Rome

fome

398 LETTERS FROM

fome years ago, notwithftanding all they
could do, and you know the Roman catho-
lics fpare no pains to propagate their religion,
could not be brought in the leafl tittle to
abate his ideas of Judaifm. With the fame
fpirit they have expired at the ftake in Spain
and Portugal, when they could fave their
lives at the very Ian: inftant by only faying
they embraced the Roman catholic reli-
gion. In fhort, the Jews are certainly
very tenacious of their doctrines, which I do
not doubt proceeds from their flattering
themfelves with being convinced of the
truth of them, and not from obftinScy, as
the Roman catholics imagine.

Tuefday, half after 7 in the morning,
September 1, 1761.

MY little ball flourifhed lail night, as
two or three young ladies made their appear-
ance who. had not been here before, but I
was obliged to give them all faline draughts,

as

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 399

as the fnow and fait had mixed itfelf with
our peach juice through a little hole worn
in our freezing machine. Sebaftian was
very droll when he difcovered the accident.
Well, fays he, this is not to be borne ! I
fpent fo many hours (counting them upon
his fingers,) in pounding the peaches, fo
many in doing this, and fo many in doing
that, and here in a few militates the whorefon
fait is come in to fpoil every thing ! In
fhort, his rage mounted to fuch a pitch, that
I do not believe he would have attempted to
fave what little of the JJjerbet (the Italian
name, forbeito, for iced things,) was yet
untainted, if I had not reminded him of it.
Upon this he fet himfelf to work to get out
what he could, and did fkim ofFfome of the
top, which was not quite fo much impreg-
nated with brine as the reft, but ftill might
be recommended where falts are ordered to
be taken.

L E'T.

400 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XXXVII.

Bibbiena, half after 9 in the mornirtgj
Monday, September 7, 1761.

ESTERDA Y after dinner my landlord
and I paid a melancholy, but curious vifit,
to the brother of the bifhop of Sammi-
niato, who fome days ago loft his fenfes.
By confufing his brain with reading a num-
ber of books upon religion, he is run reli-
gioufly mad. Upon our entering the room
he knew us, and made us tolerably feniible
compliments as he lay inbed, but all on a fud-
den, he cried out, "Fiat ! oh, almighty word
•' that produced the world out of nothing."
He then fet himfelf to count with his fingers,
five, feven, feven and a half, &c. and then one
day. *' If I live that time, I mail live two ages.
" As for you, fays he, pointing to me, you will
" go into limbo." In (hort, he uttered many

incoherent

Italy, Germany, &c. 401

coherent things. You know, I prefume,
what limbo is ? The Roman catholics, be-
sides heaven and hell, have two other divi-
sions in the invifible world, which we know
nothing of. Thefe two unexplored places
are .purgatory and limbo. Purgatory is that
intermediate ftate between heaven and hell,
where thofe who are not virtuous enough to
enjoy immediately the former, nor bad
enough to be condemned to the latter, are
purged like gold in the fire from the fins
that hang about them, and leaving which
ill the flames like drofs, they mount pure
and uncontaminated to the heavenly man*
fions. Limbo is a different place, for thofe
who are guiltlefs of any crime, and yet
upon account of not being regenerated by
the waters of baptifm are unable to enter
the gates of blifs. Under this number come
all unchriftened babes and righteous perfons
before the coming of Chrift, except the
patriarchs, whom our Saviour, when he went
down to hell after his crucifixion, delivered
Vol. Ill, C c from

402 LfetTERS FROM

from the confinement of limbo. For by ail
accounts, it is a nafly dark ugly place, and as
well as purgatory adjoining to hell. But to
return to our madman. " Who is there, fays
<e hej flaring, among you all, that knows
*' how to write quick and well ? I offered
** myfelf. Pell and ink then for the gen-
4< tleman," fays he. A pen and ink was
put into my hand from off a table juit by.
i( Well, fir, you will be fo good to dic-
*' tate." Ay, write, fiat-— I have written it*
*' write recipe — I have done it* Now
** a drop of water dropped upon the
** flames of hell from all eternity. Then
he talked fomething about God's dying, in
fhort, uttered a deal of incoherent ftufF,
which, inftead of pleafing, would be rather
tirefome and mocking for you to read. He
faid we mould be all gardeners in paradife*
afked his wife whether (lie remembered the
time when her mother was born, with twenty
other melancholy abfurdities. At laft, two
pills of laudanum came in, for his phyncian
3 wanted

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 403

wanted to get him to fleep a little, which
he had not done fince he was firft feized
with his delirium. There was much diffi-
culty in getting him to fwallow this foporinc
medicine, which he did, however, at laft,
fvvearing he had got the devil incarnate in
his ftomach. I then retired with the reft of
the company, for it was the univerfal opi-
nion that keeping him talking made him
worfe. Even tho' we converfed among our-
felves, he would take up the laft word we
laid as an echo, and add fomething of his
own to it. Upon my return home, I found
my landlord's wife and daughters in the
ltreet very much frightened; for another
madman raving had pafTed by them, and
abufed them terribly. I think we are got
into the country of people out of their
fenfes. It feems this is a man efcaped
from Arezzo. He was a handfome fellow,
and did not look like a low perlbn. He fright-
ened a good many people yeflerday night.
The potefta or magiftrate was to blame in

C c z not

404 LETTERS FROM

not having put him into prifon. However,
as this officer is juft come, I believe he
hardly knew in which part of his houfe the
prifons flood. For id every potefteria or
relidende of the potefta there are always
certain rooms fet apart for the confinement
of diforderly perfons. However, I think
fome country people, who found the mad-
man lying upon a bench quite tired, lhuE
him into a cellar for the night. This morn-

;i

ing he was either let or got loofe, for he ran
down to the river Vefla, where he ftripped
himfelf, and pelted ftones at thofe who at-
tempted to com? near him. However, he
was at lafl: taken, and by this time may be
near Arezzo, where they were to conduct
him. I do not know how they came to find
that he belonged to that city.

Bibbiena, half after 9 In the morning,
Tuefday, September 8, 1761.

THE laudanum that was given to the
bifhop's brother the day before yeflerday,

tho*

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 405

tlio1 in a pretty large quantity, had no effect
211 making him fleep. I think they fay it
made him lie without fpeaking in a fort of
lethargy for ahout two hours, hut flill with
his eyes open. I had a viht yeilerday from
a philofopher, who came fome miles to con-
verfe with me. I have long expected his
appearance, but what delayed him was his
having no coat, for he lives wild in the
woods like a hermit, with only a kind of
waiftcoat the country people wear. He was
obliged, therefore, to fend to Arezzo for a
luit of cloaths, in which he has done me
the honor of vifitine; me. He was once
fecretary of the finances at Florence, and
was protected by Ginori, then governor of
Leghorne, who, if he had lived, would
probably have been made regent of Tufcany,
but his death deftroyed the hopes of his
native country, and ruined his friend, Count
Richecourt, who naturally hated the iup-
pofed fucceffor to his honors, upon his
death difcountenanced all thole who*, had
C c 3 been

4o6 LETTERS FROM

been protected by him. Our philofopher
loft his place with many others, and retired
immediately among thefe woods to pafs his
days in ftudy and retirement. He fpends,
however, a little time of the winter at
Arezzo, where he keeps his fuit of cloaths,
which he fent for to appear before me. He
feems a fenfible man, but has an amazing
volubility of fpeech. What .he fays I be-
lieve is true enough, that he has found more
felicity fince his literary retirement amongfr.
the mountains, than he did during all his
expectations and bufinefs, while his friend
Ginori lived. <( Ah ! cried he, you can
** never imagine the uncertainties, uneafi-
'* nefTes and fatigues both of body and mind
66 I underwent in the height of my profpe-
cc rity. I was a (lave to every perfon, but I
*' now am free, and mafter of myfelf. The
" little I have fuffices for my folitude, which
u is not tedious, while I have my books to
64 divert me. Air and exercife has re-elta-
^ blimed my health, but what I moll prize

•f is

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. ' 407

" is that peace of mind, which is returned
ic to me, and which I had loft in the tu-
" multuous fcenes of public life." This
really edifying converfation was carried 011
ftill farther, without my having hardly an
opportunity of putting in a word, when
my philofopher took leave of me, ignorant
of my way of thinking, tho' he had fq
£opioufly difplayed his own.

CC4 LET-

405 LETTERS FROM

Letter xxxviil

Bibbiena, half after eleven, morning,
Sunday, September 13, 1761.

X H I S place affording nothing new I will
give you fome letters of the prince of San
Severo of Naples, to cavalier Giraldi of Flo-
rence, which the propofto of this place has
communicated to me, and which relate to a
perpetual fire that prince flatters himfelf to
have found out.

'The Prince of San Severe? 's firjl Letter.

u I will now faithfully maintain the pro?
*4 mife I made you in my laft week's letter,
" and will give you a full relation of my
eS wonderful difcovery. I thought I mould
" have been able to have comprifed every
i' thin? in one letter, but I find I fhall have

" matter

ITALY, GERMANY, Sec. 409

" matter enough for three or four, and I
" think it better to keep your curiofity in
" fufpenfe than to give you a long tedious
" letter at one time. The fact then is as
• * follows. Having applied myfelf to a chy-
** mical operation in order to make fome
" phyfical experiments, after I had labored
tf for at lead four months, it happened one ,
*f evening in the latter end of November*
" that in opening, about an hour and a half
" after fun-fet, four phials I had before me
" upon a little table, the matter contained
" in one of them, and which weighed {even
i( grains lefs than the fourth part of an
" ounce, being accidently held by me pretty
a near a wax-candle, took fire, and fent forth
" a conftant lively flame of a yellowifh colour.
" I remained fo confufed at this unexpected
" accident that I did not immediately know
" what to do. At laft I pulled out my hand-*
*' kerchief in a hurry to take the phial, with-'
" out burning myfelf, off the table where it
l4 then was, and put it upon another table

" that

4io LETTERS FROM

** that was juft by. I did this, as I was afraid
" of the phial's burfting with the heat, and
" that the fire, if fcattered about the table,
u might light likewife the combuftible par-
" tides contained in the other three phials,
" which were open too. You will tell me
" perhaps, that I mould have done wifer in
" taking the three old phials off the table'
" than in touching that which was all in
" flames with evident danger of burning my-
" felf. But I do not know, if you was to
" find yourfelf in as great a confufion as I
" was then, but you might have done the
" fame. I took it then, as I faid, in my hands,
" but inflead of finding the glafs burning
" hot, as I had imagined, it was little more
" than luke-warm, fo that I could hold it
" without putting myfelf to the leaft pain
" in my bare hand. After it had burned fix
'? continued hours upon the table, I was fur-
u prized to find the flame juft as full and
*' lively as it was the firfl inflant. How-
f ever I thought of going to bed and of put-

ff ting

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 411

l

*' ting out the flame. What aftonimed me

" ftill more was, that in extinguifhing the
u flame with the glafs flopper belonging to
" the phial, I found the glafs only preferred
" the very felf-fame degree of luke-warmth,
"as it had when I put it upon the table,
16 notwithftanding the fire had been burning
" for fix hours. The next morning I got up
" very early, not having been able to deep
" upon account of the many ideas that were
u rolling in my mind, and ran immediately
" to my phial. I opened it and attempted
" to lip-ht the matter contained in it, but it
•* was not poflible to do it. I began turning
<{ it with an ivory bodkin, when a momen-
" tary flame juft fhot out from it, like what
" proceeds from fpirits of wine, when they
" are not well reft'ified^ and ftill retain a great
" deal of phleghm. In fliort I tried every
" thing I could to light it but all in vain.
" After having made thefe fruitlefs endea-
" vours it came into my head to weigh it,
t( as it did not feem to me to be a bit dimi-

66 iii(hed

412 LETTERS FROM

u nifhed in bulk, and to be juft of the fame
Ci confiftency as the evening before upon its
" taking fire, which was pretty near that of
*4 foft butter in fummer time. Upon my
€i weighing it I found to my great furprize
" that it was net dimmifhed an atom of its
" original weight. What think you now,
ec my dear friend ? Does the cafe begin to
" grow ferious and furprizing or no ? But
et this I am certain will only be the firft de-
" gree cf your afloniihment. What had
ts happened filled my mind with fo many
" different thoughts, that for two or three
" days I was not capable of attending to any
" thing elfe. I locked myfelf up in my
" room, andfpent all my time in meditating
f{ upon what had happened, and in forming
M fyftems, which had better foundations than
" mere hypothecs. At lafl I refolved tocon-
" tinue my experiments, that I might be
ct more certain of them, and better able to
" inveftigate the reafons of this wonderful
s* phenomenon. It came into my head to

c< make

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 4.1.3

f< make a fort of candle of my materials,
" and in confequence of this idea I took part
" of the matter that was in the three re-
'- maining phials, and put it into a little tube
(i that had a cover to it and a hole in the
" middle of the cover. I put a fort of muff
" through this hole made of that matter
" which chymifts are well acquainted with*
" and which does not receive any damage
*■ from fire. I had rubbed it over and over
" again with the before mentioned compofi-
" tion. Having done this, I applied a candle
" to that end of it which ftuck out of the
" hole, but notwithftanding whatever I could
" do, T could never get it to take fire. You
" can not imagine how melancholy I remain-
" ed" on feeing all m/l,0pes prove fruitlefs.
" At laft I refolved to take away the muff
" and the cover from the tube and fet fire to
" the matter itfelf, which I did not doubt
" would burfl out into a flame, as it had done
" the evening before. But all my attempts
!* proved in vain. I (at my^lf down in a

** fnrf

4*4 LETTERS FROM

*' fort of defpair in a great chair, and aftef
" having reflected fome time, it came into
" my head, that the fmall quantity of the
" matter might be the reafon of its not taking
u fire. This gave me frefh courage, and I
" refolved to try a fecond time. Accordingly
" I put the cover and fnufF again upon my
" tube, without however clofing it quite
" down. Having done this I placed the
" tube in my little fcales, and began to add
" frefh matter to the former with the end of
•' my bodkin. What I had flattered myfelf
" happened, for I had no fooner by little and
<f little added frefh matter till the whole ar-
*' rived to the weight of feven and twpnty
" grains lefs than the fourth part of an ounce^
" exclufive of the weight of the fnufF, when
" immediately upon my holding a wax can-
*' die to it, the fnufF lighted, notwithftand-
•' ing I had tried fo many times before to do
" it in vain. You may imagine what plea-
" fure this gave me, and in order to afcertain
"whether the exad quantity of matter then

" employed

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 41$

?t employed was neceffary, I lifted the muff
w and cover up a little, and began with the
" but-end of my bodkin to take out the
•* matter by degrees as I had put it in. But
" I had hardly taken more than the weight
" of a grain away than the flame began to
" be agitated in fuch a manner that it was
M juft ready to be extinguished. I with all
" hafte poffible put into the tube again
" the quantity of matter I had taken out,
*' and the flame immediately reaffumed its
" former fpirit and tranquil ftate. This
** flame was lefs than that which wax or oil-
" lights give, and, as I have already faid, in-
" dining to a yellowifh colour. I tried to
" hold my finger about four inches above it,
*' but the heat was fo exceffive that I was
*■ obliged to retire it immediately. Upon
" holding a candle to it, it lighted it directly
" like all other common lights. If you
lt moved a piece of white paper over it, it
*' became black with the fmoke. It gave
J* indeed but a dimmifh light, however

" enough

416 LETTERS FROM

enough to read the moil minute writings
I refolved to try the experiment of put-
ting more of the matter I had compofed
to it, for as by taking a fmall portion of
it away I had obferved the flame was very
near going out, I thought that by adding
a greater quantity it muft confiderably en-
creafe in ftrength and brightnefs. I ac-
cordingly put my refolution into execu-
tion, and with the but-end of the bodkin
by little and little put in all that remained
in the phial, and which with the former
weighed twenty grains more than the
fourth part of an ounce, fo that I added
forty ftven grains of matter. But I faw
that this addition was of no ufe at all,
for the flame remained jufh as little and
pale as it was before. I imagined at firft
that this might proceed from the fnufFs
not being of cotton. But having made
another of the fame materials and exactly
fimilar., and having put it into fome oil,
I found it made jufh as clear and long a

" flame

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 417

** flame as if it had been of cotton. From
** hence I concluded that my flame's not in-
" creafing was owing to the matter, and not
c< to the muff. Cotton I could not ufe, as I
** mould then have made an experiment that
** would have been of no fervice with regard
ee to what I intended, as you (hall hear here-
" after. Having loft all hopes therefore of
si rendering the flame clearer and brighter, I
"took the tube with the burning matter
*' gently up in my hand in order to carry it
" into another little room and place it there;
*' But I had hardly gone above two or three
<f jfteps, than the flame was agitated as if it
" had been in a high wind, when on the
u contrary all the windows were mut, and
*' there was not the lead: air could enter the
" room. I flopped upon this account and
" fet my tube upon a little table jufr. by me,
" after which the agitation ceafed in preat
" part, tho' not entirely. As I always
" thought fome little wind mull; be the
" caufe of the agitation, I took a fheet of
Vol. Ill* D d " paper>

42$ LETTERS FROM

" paper, and making with it the fort of fcreeit
" the common people ufe in the Streets, I
*' put my flame into the middle of k. But
" you can never imagine the pain I felt while
*' I was doing this, for I faw my dear flame
" juft upon the point of extinguishing, How-
" ever the agitation having by degrees in
" great meafure ceafed, I took the tube a
•' fecond time up in my hand and moved on
•• flowly Step after itep. But the flame, not-
•■ withstanding the fcreen that defended it
" from the air, moved about perhaps more
" violently than it had done, when I was
" carrying it without it. However I at laft
" got it into the little room. After having
•" Shut the windows and window mutters, I
*' took away the paper that furrounded it.
" I then put it upon a little table with one
" claw. As foon as I had done this, I fhut
" the door to exclude all poffible introduo
" tion of air. However notwithstanding all
" my care the agitation of the flame did not
" ceafe, tho' it was much decreafed. I did
i •« not

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 419

** not know what to think of this motion,
u as I was certain there was not the leafr.
*' wind in the room, and a thoufand ideas
" crowded upon my imagination. But by
*' often handling the tube in thefe reveries,
M I found that if I railed the tube on the
*' right hand fide of it, the flame went up
" tranquilly in an exacl: pyramid perpendi-
" cular to the horizon, if on the contrary I
" rofe the left fide of the tube^ the agitation
ei increafed prodigioufly. This experiment
*' convinced me that the matter mull lie ho-
" rizontally for the flame to be fteady, and
** that I muft have a table perfectly even
" for the tube to ftand perpendicularly upon.
c' Having levelled one exactly by means of
" a plumb, and fet my light upon it, the
<e flame became quite fteady» and remained fo
" even tho' I opened the door of my little
" room. This new difcovery pleafed me fo
" much, that I fat for fome hours making
*' love, if I may be allowed the expreffion, to
" my new phenomenon. After having opened
D d 2 <6 the

4<20 LETTERS FROM

" the window mutters, tho' I left my win-
" daws lhut, I went out of the little room
" and locked the door after me. I intended
" to try how long the light would continue
" burning. You can not imagine how affi-
6e duous I was at all times in viiiting my
*' beloved object. Upon my entering the
" room I always felt a little palpitation for
" fear I mould find it extinguifhed. How-
" ever, from the time of my lighting it, vit,
" the lafr. day of November, till the fecond
" of the month of March, I always found it
•' burning, and always with a fteady flame,
" as lively and as high as at the beginning.
" And what encreafed my aftonimment was,
" that upon weighing the matter the a fore -
" faid fecond of March, I found it exactly
i' of the fame weight as it was three months
" before, when I firft lighted it. I do not
" doubt but you will have laughed at me in
*' the courfe of this letter to fee my little
" joys and fears, and you will think I am
•' become a downright natural philofopher.

" I know

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 421

** I know the natural philofophers are very
*c apt to raife their imagination to the greateft
" height for the mofl confummate trifles,
11 However you will not be furprized at me,
'• when in my following letters you mall
" hear the reft of this remarkable event.
u But you muft content yourfelf now with
" my not being willing to give you any far*
" ther trouble at pre fen t, for I do not doubt
" but you are fufficiently tired with the
il length of my letter. I remain &c.

D d 3 LET-

422 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XXXIX,

Bibbiena, 9 o'clock in the moving,
Sunday, Sept. 20, 1761.

Prince of San Severos fecond Letter,

' -M- FTER haying given you in my
• c nrft. letter of laft week the nrft: experiment
" I made upon my extraordinary phenome-
" non, namely, of weighing it, and finding"
" it juffc of the fame weight after three
" months burning as it was before, I will
f now continue you a description of the var
*' rious other experiments I made with re-
*e gard to my perpetual fire. The firfl
" experiment I tried was, to put my light
" in the middle of 3. fort of lanthorn of
" pafte-board, which had no effect, till I
r< attempted to place a piece of pafte-board
*' on the top to cover it, which if I had not

'.' been

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 4*3

** been yery quick in. taking off again, my
" light began to tremble fo much, that it
" would quickly have gone out. And yet
** there could be no want of air, for the
" cover did not fhut the lanthorn down fo
** clofe, but that a great deal mull: have
" come in, enough for any other light to
** have burned juft the fame as if the cover
* had not been put on. I then made a hole
*' about as big as my little finger in one of
" the fides of the lanthorn, which were
" of pafte^board, one being made of glafs,
" in order that I might be able to obferve
** every thing. After having done this, I
" put the lid on again, and found that the
is light trembled a little, but did not give
•' any figns of going out. What furprized
u me was, that its direction was no longer
'• vertical, but inclined directly towards that
" hole I had made in the fide of the pafte-
" board. I then flopt it up, and made another
M horizontal to the light, the direction of
c* which, likewife, immediately became ho-
D d 4 *' rizontal,

^24 LETTERS FROM

^ rizontal. I then made a third below it,
u flopping up the fecond, but I had no
" fooner covered it, than the light gave
" evident figns of going out, if I had not
" been very quick in taking the cover of
" the fecond hole off again."

But I will not give you the account of all
the tirefome experiments Prince San Severo
made with his new light. It is enough J
come to the laft, in which he was trying the
difference of the agitation of the flame, ac-
cording to the different number of degrees he
moved the tube it ftood in from being per?
pendicular to the horizon. By little and
little he inclined it till it made an angle of
forty-five degrees with the horizon, when
he goes on thus.

" I then faw the flame in fuch agitation,
$< that it was juft ready to go out. In my
*c hurry to reftore the tube to its perpendi-
*' cular fituation, I only jogged it without

H railing

ITALY, GERMANY, &c, 42$

'* raifmg it. This jog was fufficient to ex-?
** tinguifti my poor light, and, believe me,
" I felt fo much pain upon feeing it go out,
ie that I could not reftrain a lamentable oh !
" from proceeding from the bottom of my
" heart. I have already told you, that this
94 matter once extinguifhed is not to be
*c lighted again, and I have iince repeated
'* many experiments concerning it, but all
{i in vain. You will tell me, perhaps, that
** I have two other phials full of the fame
" compofition. Yes, I have, but I intend
*' to keep them for a particular ufe, which
" I will tell you in another letter. In the
<f mean time, do you divine what it may be,
" for I mould imagine you might guefs it.
<s You may fay that I am now myfterious.
'* Jt is but juft that a letter which contains
e? myfteries, fhould finifh with one. I
tc am, &c.

M Prince

426 LETTERS FROM

Prince of San Severo's third Letter,

lt You have now had eight days fines
my laft to conlider about what I intend
to do with my perpetual lights. Well,
have you found it out ? I do not think
you can fail of guefling, if you know the
great pains I have been at in adorning the
burial place of our family. No one can
doubt but that this new light I have
found out muft be of very long duration,
as it did not lofe an atom of its weight,
tho' it kept burning for three months.
Now what greater ornament can I put
into my burying place than two of thefe
lights burning perpetually in a fituation
expofed to the view of every perfon, and
not buried in fome fubterraneous invifible
vault ? But firfl of all I want a proper
name to give this light to diftiiiguiih it
from others. From the experiments I
have made, that of eternal or perpetual
leems to me the belt, adapted to it. Cer-»

" tain

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 427

*' tain lamps have been called by this name,
" that have been found in ancient tombs,
" difcovered after the courfe of many cen-
*f turies, and in particular that which was
" found at Rome in the reign of Paul the
" third, in an ancient fepulchre, efteemed
" to be fixteen hundred .years old. They
?c fay that this lamp was burning when they
** firft opened the tomb, but that almoit. the
*c moment it was expofed to the frefh air it
" went out. Others of the fame kind are
" reported to have been difcovered in the
*' territory of Viterbo. However, whether
*c thefe relations are to be fuppofed fabulous,
*' or whether upon the opening of the tomb
# and introduction of frefh air thefe lights
c< have fent forth a momentaneous flame, as
" fome imagine, in either of thefe cafes, the
" name of perpetual or eternal is not at all
" well adapted to them. You fee in all
" cafes mine is much preferable, as it burns
" freely in open air without any detriment
to its light ; on the contrary; thofe of the

" ancients

a

428 LETTERS FROM

" ancients have always been found in fub-
<{ terraneous clofe places, and as foon as ever
" they have been expofed to the open air,
M have gone out. True it is, that Doctor
** Plott is of opinion that thefe perpetual
** lights are practicable, and has attempted
" to give us fome idea of them. But we
^ have never yet feen any of them publicly
'* expofed to the world. All that he feems
" to have done is, to propofe for the compo-
*' fition of fuch a kind of lamp, afbeftine
*■ paper for the fnuff, and naptha or liquid
" bitumen for the oil, which latter is to be
" found in the coal mines at Pickford in
" Shropfhire. This bitumen, he fays, is
" capable of burning without any fnuff, or
ie without any care being taken of it, which
" latter, you fee, is an abfolutely neceifary
". qualification for it to burn continually.
" With regard to the before mentioned
" lamps of the ancients, which, as I have
cc already faid, it is the opinion of fome, may
H receive a momentaneous flame upon the

« firfl

({

Italy, Germany, &c. 429

11 firfr, entrance of frefh air into the tomb, the
" fame author is of opinion that they may
" be imitated by fhutting fome liquid phof-
" phorus under the glafs of an air pump,
" leaving, however, a fmall portion of air in
" the glafs. I, however, without making
" projects, or propofmg imitations, hope to
" be able to produce to the public, not only
<c one, but two of thefe perpetual lights.
" You, indeed, make me a juft objection,
why I do not renew my experiments upon
" the matter I have ftill remaining, and
" make fome frefh for my perpetual lights ?
<e This is a difficulty which muft occur to
" every perfon, and, for my part, I mould
" not fo hardily oppofe my own inclination
" to make frefh experiments, if I was fure
" of fucceeding a fecond time in the compo-
" fition of the matter, which produces fo
" portentous a phenomenon. But all chy-
" mifts know, that thofe operations which
" depend upon certain degrees of heat, whe-
<{ ther from the fun or from fire, if that

(< degree

4 3° LETTERS FROM

*6 degree of heat be not exactly applied, never
€C fucceed equally* Now when I fent this
*' marvellous compofkion to one of our glafs
V houfes, in order for it to be expofed for
*e fome time to the force of fire, as nothing
" ran lefs in my head than the making a
" perpetual lamp, I did not take any account
€i of the number of hours of fire, or the
" degree of heat it fufFered. I know it was
*' expofed to the fire a good many days, but
" I do not even know the exact number of
m them. Would it be prudence then in me
" to confume the little that remains in my
" two phials, and which once extinguished
41 is never to be lighted again, and thereby
M render myfelf incapable of proving to the
" world the truth of what I here affert ?
*' But it may perhaps be told me, that I
<f ought to try to make this matter afrefh.
" Without doubt I will try, but if it mould
" not fucceed, and I had already confumed
" what ftill remains, I mould die with infi-
" nite difpleafure not to have been able to

" render

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 43*

*' render my phenomenon public to the eyes

" of the whole world. I intend to put one

** at the feet and another at the head of the

•* ftatue of our Saviour dead, which you

" know we have in our burying place. They

" fhall be put upon the top of two thin cylin-

u. ders of marble, made to reprefent two

**• wax tapers. However as yet I would not

" have ftrangers take a journey to Naples to

" be witneffes of this wonder, for things are

" not ready for it to be rendered public.

" When they are once lighted however,

" they fhall be vifible to all perfons that

" chufe to come and fee them, who fhall

" have the liberty of making what experi-

" ments they pleafe, provided they do not

" endanger me the lofing of the pleafure

" of having fuch a prodigy in my family

" chapel. I dare fay that all will find their

" expectations anfwered, and I from this

<c inflant oblige myfelf to bear their expen-

" ces, tho' they fhould come from America,

" if they do not find every thing exactly as

"1 have

432 LETTERS FROM

'? I have here defcribed it. You will now
*{ perhaps make me another objection, and
ct that is why I do not make the materials of
'* which this composition is formed, public,
" that without undertaking a long journey,
cc people may try experiments in their own
4\ houfes and at their own leifure ? I anfwer
61 that if I was to do this, firfr. my burying
" place would lofe this its lingular preroga-
" tive, and fecondly* fome author of a cer-
*\ tain nation might come forth, who" would
" fwear to have found this fecret in the re^
" gifters of the houfe of lords, &c. as I
" have read it happened with regard to the
" finding out of the loadftone, gunpowder,
" and other things. However, I have no
" difficulty in difcovering to you the princi-
" pal ingredient in this compofition, but as
" this letter is long, I will referve it for ano«
«« then

The

ItALY, GERMANY, &c. 433

The Prince of San Severe? s fourth Letter*

*' I promifed in my laft letter to difcovef
to you the principal ingredient of my com-
pofition. I will now keep my word. It
confifts in the bones of the mo'ft noble
animal upon the face of the earth. You
will eafily conceive that I meanthofe of hu-
man fubjects. Not that I imagine, but that
the bones of other animals muft have the
fame virtue; however, what I made ufe
of was a human fcull. I made ufe, in-
deed, of many other ingredients, but they
were all faffing menftruums, which did not
incorporate themfelves with the matter of
the fcull. Now I imagine that this mat-
ter is not only the caufe of thofe flames,
which are fometimes feen over the graves
in a church-yard, or where there has been
a bloody battle, and fometimes hovering
over the corps of malefactors, that have
been hanged in chains, but alfo is the
Vol. III. E e caufe

434 LETTERS FROM

caufe of thofe lights, which have been
obferved upon the firft opening of ancient
tombs. As the idea of light is naturally
united to that of a lamp, the laboring
people that dug open thefe ancient fepul-
clires feeing a light in them, and after-
wards finding a lamp, might poffibly ima*
gine that when they firft entered the light
was burning, but that upon the frefh air
coming in, it immediately went out. The
juft explanation of this phenomenon muft,
in my opinion, be derived from the faline
particles in all bones, which, upon the
freih air entering, immediately took fire,
but were as quickly extinguifhed, upon
account of their not being fufficiently puri-
fied. You well knbw, the bed artificial
phofphorus is extracted frbm urine, upon
account of thofe falts, with which it
abounds. But as thefe falts are extracted
from an excrement of our bodies, that is*
from a portion of matter, which not being"
fit to be converted into our proper fub-

flance,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 43S

*' ftance, is feparated from that which is
" endued with virtue proper to be fo con-
•* verted^ upon this account they are but
u juft able to produce a phofphorus and
u never a real flame. But thofe falts which
u are incorporated in our bodies are capable
** fometimes of producing momentary flames*
u tho' environed by a number of grofs par-
*' tides, not proper for this effect. Under
u this clafs we muil reduce thofe momeii-
*.' tary flames feeil in ancient tombs, church-
" yards, fields of battle, Sec, And laftly, thofe
•* falts extracted from the folids* and purified
€i and feparated from all grofs particles
" with which they were enclofed> and
" which oppofed and hindered their acti-
M vity, may become capable not only of
" producing real and lafting, but even
l< perpetual flames, and under this clafs we
" may reduce my perpetual light, of which
" I have given you the hiftory. You will
be fo good to write me word what is the
Ee^ " opinion

436 LETTERS FROM

" opinion of fome of your friends, to whorri
" you may poffibly have mown my account.
T I beg to hear their ideas for my own in*
" formation*'*

L E T-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 437

LETTER XL.

Bibbiena, 9 o'clock morning,
Monday, Sept. 28, 1761.

JQi VERY thing goes on much in the
fame train, and I will therefore give you
fome account of Ariofto, as I am jufl come
from reading that celebrated author. We
often confider him falfely as the author of a
ferious epic poem. It is mixt, part bur-
lefque and part heroical. He without doubt
in fome places has written moil: divinely, but
then he is extremely unequal, and often very
languid, tirefome and indecent, not to fay
that a great number of his ftories could hard*
ly be entertaining to boys fitting round a fire*
fide ; as for example, that of Horrilus, who
as foon as any limb, or even his head, is cut
off in battle, fticks it upon the place again*
and it becomes as firm and as united as be-
E e 3 fore.

43* LETTERS FROM

fore. Aftolfo had no other fcheme to over-
Come him, but as foon as he had beheaded
him, matching up the head and galloping
off with it as fan: as he could. Horrilus after
having groped in vain fome time upon the
ground for that material part of his body,
hears Ailolfo's horfe gallop away, tho' I
do not know how he could without his ears.
However, fufpecling the cafe, he jumps,
headlefs as he was, upon his own horfe, and
gallops after the knight. But Aftolfo out-
witted him, for he took the opportunity of
poiTeffion, to cut off a hair from the head,
upon which the enchantment and Horrilus's
life depended. The fatal hair was no fooner
divided " than the vifage became deformed
" and pale, * itseyes rolled, and by manifeft
" figns, life was drawing to its verge. The

* Si fece il vifo allor pallido e brutto,
Travolfe gli occhi, e dimoflro all' occafq
Per manifefti fegni efler condotto j
E'l bufto che feguia, troncato il collo,
Pi fella cadde, e die 1' ultimo crollo.

trunk

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 439

** trunk too, that followed on horfeback,
" fhook and fell."

Tho* Ariofto runs into many different
ftories, yet, his principal object feems to b^
the wars between Charlemagne and the
Moors, with the madnefs of Orlando, which,
indeed, makes him call his work the Orlando
Furiofo. This madnefs is oecafioned by the
neglect of the fair Angelica, who, after he
had followed her all over the world, gives
herfelf away, at Lift, to Medoro, a youth of
low extraction, whom me found wounded
in a foreft. Pity made her aflift him, and,
•as he was extremely handlome, love fuc-
ceeded to pity. She healed him, and lived
fome time in a .cottage with him, wrhere me
had got him at firft carried. Before they
went away, they had written their names
upon the bark of many of the neighbouring
trees, and particularly in a grotto, where
they ufed often to pafs the heat of the day.
Orlando, coming afterwards to |hofe places,

au4

44° LETTERS FROM

and feeing the names of Angelica and Me-
doro united, was at fir ft ftung with all the
torments of grief and jealou fy ; but, being
at laft entirely afcertained of his misfortune
by the countryman, who lived in the neigh-
bouring hut, by little and little goes out
of his fenfes, and does at laft the moft extra-
vagant actions. He tears his cloaths, throws
away his armour, and runs naked about the
world, for a long time. Aftolfo, conducted
by St. John the evangelift, at length goes up
to the moon, where Ariofto tells you every
thing is conveyed that is loft upon earth,
(an idea which Milton has taken) and there
he finds Orlando's brains, as well as thofe of
many other perfons, with fome of his own
likewife, all ftopt up in little phials. He
put the phial that contained the portion of
his own to his noftrils, and fnufTed it up like
fal- volatile, then, bringing Orlando's down
to earth, after much difficulty in holding him
down, makes him reaftume his fenfes in like
manner. Orlando, now reftored to reafon,

affifls

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 441

affifts Charlemagne, together with the other
knights, againft the Moors, till at length the
African invaders are all driven out of France.
This appears the principal aim of Ariofto,
thq' he has interwoven fo many ftories, that
he feems oftentimes to have loft all idea of
the title of his book. Indeed, I think he
may, in fome meafure, be compared to
Shakefpeare, as his beauties are very great,
but mixed, like our dramatic hero's, with
great defects.

In two or three days I leave this place for
my long journey to England, and mail con-
tinue writing to you, till I think my own
perfon will reach you as quick as my letters.

LET-

442 LETTEPvS FROM

LETTER XLI.

San Niccolo, half after 5 in the afternoon^
Monday, October 5, 1761.

On Thurfday laft I left Bibbiena. Not
being able to get to Bologna to night, I have
been obliged to flop about twelve miles
fhort of it. The inn in itfelf is good, but I
have got a very bad room in it, as the am-
baflador from Venice to Rome is expected
every minute, and his courier, whom he has
fent before, has feized upon all the belt
apartments. However, as I have been ufed
to Spain, all inns are equally good to me.
How the ambaifador comes to lodge in fo
little a place, when Bologna is fo near, I know
not. We are in the open country at prefent,
and a very pretty flat country. Plains are a
novelty to one who comes from the moun-
tainous provin-ce of Cafentino. There is a

prodi-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 443

prodigious noife in the inn at prcfent, owing
to the arrival of his excellency. However,
notwithftanding t\\e fracas he makes, I hear
the greated: part of his train is gone by fea
to Ancona. They fay he has got thirty
fervants upon the Adriatic. In our inn I do
not think there are above eight or ten per-
fons, but they run about in endlefs prepara-
tion. Venice, tho* a little ftate, is always, I
think, very fplendid in her ambaffadors.
They are more brilliant perhaps than ours
in general, or, at leaft, as much. England
is not very magnificent in her embaffies.
I do not know any but our ambaffador in
Spain, who lives with remarkable fplendor.
The Venetian ambaffador at Madrid makes
alfo a great figure. I do not remember by
whom, but the following remark was made
\ipon this fubject. That little Hates were
always more expeniive in ambafladors than
others, in order that the courts they were
fent to might think their matters were of
£ onfequence. And, in fact, fome little ftates

act

444 LETTERS FROM

act in this manner, perhaps, for the reafons
affigned. But I can not commend England
in only fending envoys where France em-
ploys ambafladors, as at Naples, and id
other places. As the rank and honors at-
tached to thefe different characters are very
different, it makes perfons think, that as an
envoy muft give place to an ambaflador,
England likewife ought to yield to the fupe-
riority of France.

My journey from Bibbiena to this place
has been attended with nothing remarkable.
After creeping along the channel of the
river Corfalone, we palled the mighty moun-
tain of Bagno, and arrived at San Piero to
dinner. In the evening we went to Galeata,
a longer, but better way than what I had
come from Cefena. The next day we dined at
Meldola, a manor belonging to Prince Pam-
fili at Rome. That nobleman is indeed
dead, but it belongs to his heirs, who are
fighting for i\is rich fuccefhon, He had the

moft

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 44$

moft property of perhaps any fubject in
Europe, but lived, notwithstanding, in ex-
treme penury. I have feeii him at Viterbo
taking the air in a wretched coach, which
they called his hearfe, and yet he had only
oblique relations, who are the perfons now
difputing for his inheritance. It is imagined
that Meldola will fall to the mare of the
Borghefe family. It is a fovereign fief, or
manor, which means that the lord of it lias
entire power over his vafTals, except in capi-
tal cafes, That acl of fupreme dominion
belongs to the pope in Meldola, as it lies
adjoining to the ecclefiaftical flare. There
is a great market held weekly in this place,
where the people of upper and lower Ro-
magna meet and exchange their commodi-
ties. From an ancient fortrefs your eye
commands the whole plain of lower Ro-
magna quite to the Adriatic fea. By this
extenfive view you will imagine I was
arrived to the verge of the mountains. Be-
hind me lay the mighty Apennines, which

2 feemed

446 LETTERS FROM

feemed to frown upon my departure front
them. After having fufficiently furveyed
the beauties of the place, I dined, and fetting
forward for Cefena, arrived at the Ave
Maria bell upon the wooden bridge over the
river Savio, which runs winding under its
walls, whence poets call her the city

Cui bagna il curvo fianco il Savio,

Whofe winding fiank the Savio bathes.

I frayed there till this day, and received many
civilities from the friars of the pious fchools,
who took me again into their houfe, but I
troubled them little, as I found acquaintance
who carried me about, and particularly a
marchionefs I had known at Rome, who
Invited me to her villa, called the Belvi-
dere, and, indeed, the beauty of the view
correfponded fully to the name. I could
even diftinguifh Ferrara from it by a long
telefcope there was in the houfe. This day,
through a rich flat country, abounding in

flax,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 447

flax, corn, and wine, with fbme olive?, I ar-
rived at the prefent place, from whence 1
fliall in the morning continue my eafy jour-
ney to Bologna.

Bologna, 9 o'clock evening,
Tuefday, Oft. 6, 1761.

THIS morning between nine and ten I
arrived in this city. The roads from Rome
to Bologna, after you have pafTed the moun-
tains, are the bell: of any in Italy, and indeed
are as good as any we have in England. We
have jufl had one of the Italian horfe-races
in the ftreet under my window. It is fome
feflival or other, I do not know what.

I have been reading the Bologna -gazette.
The article of London, of the 15th Sep-
tember, fpeaks of our royal marriage in the
following manner.

«« About

443 LETTERS FROM

" About nine o'clock in the evening of
" the 8th inftant, the princefs of Mecklin-
" burg Strelitz, our new fovereign, was con-
" dueled by prince Edward, brother to the
" king, into the chapel deftined for the cere-
" mony of the marriage. The duke of
" Cumberland reprefented the father of the
" bride. The queen was preceded by a
c< hundred and twenty ladies of the firffc
" rank in mod magnificent habits, and (lie
" was accompanied by fix nuptial virgins,
" and ten daughters of counts held up her
" train. All ceremonies being finifhed,
*' which was by eleven o'clock, the whole
" artillery of the park was fired, in order to
" announce the happy event to the people.
" The two fovereigns then received compli-
** merits of congratulation from all the no-
" bility, who had affiled at the before men-
" tioned ceremonies, and who partook of the
" royal banquet, after which the new queen
" was conducted to her apartment. The
" town made the greatefl and moll: magnifl-

" cent

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 449

" cent demonftrations of joy imaginable, and
" was entirely illuminated in the evening.
" The morning afterwards every perfon ap-
" peared at court in their mofl fplendid ha«*
" bits. There were all the nobility, all the
" foreign miniflers and perfons of diftinc-
*' tion prefent, in order to pay their compli-
" ments to the royal bride and bridegroom.
*' The fovereign ordered letters of notifica-
" tion to be given to all the foreign minif-
" ters, which he had fubferibed with his
" own hand ; and which they were to tranf-
" mit to their refpective fovereigns, to in-
" form them of the royal wedding. Never
" upon limilar occafions was a greater pomp
" of cloaths, diamonds, and other jewels
" beheld. Some of the ladies were covered
(f with diamonds to the value of 100,000
" and 200,000 pounds flerling. In the even-
*c ing there was a fplendid ball, which was
" opened by the before mentioned prince
*• Edward and the princefs Augufta."

Vol. Ill, F f Bologna,

4|o LETTERS FROM

Bologna, 7 o'clock evening,
Thurfday, Oft. 8, 1761.

1 have been yefterday and to day to caft
an eye upon fome of the mod curious thing*'
in this place, as Bologna is famous for a
great quantity of very fine pictures. The
college likewife called the Inftituto pleafed
me, which is a foundation for the ftudy of
moll: arts and fciences. The fudden tranfi-
tion from a room full of architecture, to ano-
ther where there are all forts of models of for-
tification, and a third ornamented with
things belonging to naval affairs, chemiftry
or other fciences, is pleafing. Befides there
is a good mufeum of curiofities, and fome
paintings by no means defpicable. All that
feemed to me to be wanting were the ftudents,
but I fuppofe there are times when they
appear, however I faw nobody. This town,
tho' under the pope, has much the air of a
republic, and indeed, upon it's furrender to
2 • the

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 4$t

the holy fee, many of its privileges were
preferved. They have ftill a kind of doge
and fenate, which regulate all the interior
concerns of the city, and I believe the legate
or governor only prerldes over the great
affairs of (late. It was formerly entirely a
republic, raifed after the example of many
other cities in the times of coilfufion, but
fell like them under the incroaching poten-
tates, who now divide Italy between them*
except a few fmall remains of ariftocratical
liberty. The city is handfome, tho' the
ftreets are in fome places narrow, and through
moft of them on each fide runs a colonnade
formed like the piazzas in Covent-garden,
that a foot paffenger may walk about the
town in rainy weather with very little wet,

I fet out tomorrow for Ferrara, and the day
after I hope to arrive at Padua. From thence
I muft make an excurlion to Venice to pro-
vide fome things neceflary for my journey

to England.

F f a LET-

4ji LETTERS FROM

LETTER XLIL

I

Padua, 4 'oclock afternoon,-
Sunday, Oft. u, 1761.

Arrived here yefterday by dinner, that fe
3 famionable dinner in London, about four or
five o'clock. The evening before yefterday,
after paffing the Po with difficulty, as it

was

-infarid contorquens vortlce fylvas,

I flept at Ferrara, a city that looks like a
northern town, the buildings being greatly
of red brick. Its neighbour Ravenna I did
not pafs throughj tho' it fucceeded to Rome
in being the capital of the weftern empire, but
it is now funk to only a fecondary town of
the papal fee. I prefume the Roman empe-
rors fettled there to be more at hand in the

decaV

ITALY, GERMANY, &c 453

decay of the empire to oppofe the barbarians,
who were ruihing like torrents from the
mountains to conquer lands more fertile
than their own, Even after the Goths had
overwhelmed Italy, Juftinian, by the fortu-r
nate arms of Belifarius, re-eftablifhed his do-
minion in this country, and it remained to
his fuccefTors under the name of the Exar-
chate, till the Lombards took it, but were
foon driven out by Pepin and Charlemagne,
who gave it to the pope. In the confufions
of Italy however, during the dark centuries,
both Ferrara and Ravenna got under dukes?
and the former was at length governed by
the houfe of Efte, fo famous for their protec-
tion to learning and poetry, which has
fpread their name much wider than their
own actions or little dukedom could have
done. Upon the failure of that family the
Venetians got pofleffion of it, but the popes,
by artifice and eccleiiaftical arms recovered
it again into their hands, where at prefent
it appears likely to remain. The Po feems
F f 3 to

454 LETTERS FROM

to be its prefent enemy, and they have fenti-r
nels to watch it in its now fwollen fitua-
tion, who are ready to run and flop up any
breach with clay and other materials. If
we had been a day later, we could not have
paffed it.

Nothing remarkable happened to me in
the journey from Ferrara hither except that
I was in danger of being overturned within
the walls of this town. There was fo deep a
hole, that the fhaft-horfe, in tugging to get
us out, left his faddle and fhafts behind him.
But the only damage we received was the
time loft in adjufting the chaife and horfes
again, and the breath expended in cholerical
ejaculations againft. the magiflrates of Padua
for permitting their ftreets to be fo bad. In-
deed it feems an extremely defert place, tho'
once fo famous for its univerfity, which
flill continues, but has neither the reputation
nor fludents it ufed to have. The town it*
felf is large and very ugly. The flreets are

badly

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 455

badly paved, the buildings half tumbling
down, and the whole together hardly mews
any remains of its former greatnefs,

Upon the river Brenta, half after one
afternoon, Monday, Oft. 12, 1761.

I am at prefent in a burchidlo^ a Venetian
boat or barge, going from Padua to Venice.
A Pruffian or German is with me, who
feems a lhabby fellow, but T could not avoid
letting him come with me in the boat, or
elfe I lhould have been glad of his abfence.
I have juft. fet down to writing however,
and fpeak very little to him. The river J
am upon at prefent is bordered with very
fine country hpufes. But we mail leave
them by little and little, and enter into the
fea, in the middle of which, three miles from
terra jirma, Venice is wonderfully fituated;

I believe I fhall be able to write but little,

for the Pruffian comes very often into the

F f 4 little

45$ -LETTERS FROM

little cabin where I am fitting and interrupts
me. He is gone however at prefent to the
boat's head to look at the country houfes, as
the weather has changed from rain to ex-
tremely fine.

My bark has juft paffed by a very noble
villa belonging to the Pifani family. What
I write mull be incoherent, as the Pruffian is
interrupting me almoft every minute. *
wifh he was at the bottom of the water we
are now gliding over, tho', poor fellow, I
wifh he had at the fame time the gills of a
fifh to breathe under it. However, there is
no remedy, as he is above that element.
Tho' I call this a boat, it is very large, and
has two cabins, in one of which I and the
Pruffian are fitting, and in the other the fer-
vants and boatmen. This importunate tra-
veller is at prefent looking out of a window,
which gives me an opportunity of continu-
ing you my writing,

Venice

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 457

Venice was firfl inhabited by little better
than fiihermen, who fled from the continent
during the incurfions of the Huns and Goths,
and fought for liberty in a fet of poor little
iflands riling out of the Adriatic gulph. So
early amidft rocks and fea-weed arofe this
famous republic. It foon got fomething into
its prefent form of government, and as their
citizens increafed, the iflands were fquared
with piles, and flreets formed, which to the
wondering eye prefent a canal of water.
Succefs and opulence rendered the edifices
more magnificent, till at length that queen
of the Adriatic, towards which my bark is
now gently gliding, threw up her proud
towers towards heaven, and feemed to ex-
ult over the fubjecled waves.

The Pruffian ftill continues to torment me
with talking about the glories of his mafter
and I do not know what all. Hehasjufr,
made me read fome verfes the king of Pruffia
fent to his mother the late queen dowager.

He

45? LETTERS FROM

He fent them together with a box in which
there was ibme myrrhe, frankincenfe and
money, of which he made her a prefent
upon twelfth-day, or the epiphany. You
know this is the day on which the wife men
are faid to have come to prefent their gifts to
Chrift. The fathers tell us there were three,
and all three kings, at leafl the king of
Pruffia has regard to that number. The
verfes are as follow.

Grand Reine,

Autrefois trois prefenterent

A l'enfant ne qu'ils admirerent

De I 'or, de la myrrhe, et de l'encens,

Daignez de grace condefcendre

Que je m' emancipe a vous rendre

Au meme jour meme prefent.

La myrrhe eft cette amour fi tendre

Que j'eus pour vous de tous les terns,

L'encens ce font les veux que j'orFre

Au ciel pour prolonger vos ans.

Et ce metal au fond du coffre

Eft troup heureux s'il fert a vos amufemens.

This

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 459

This poetry is not ugly, and thank God
the perfon who lent me the copy is fet down
to write letters, which has given me time to
tranfcribe it. We are at prefent flopped a
little, in order to pafs through afluicejuft
like ours in England. We are defcending
as they are lowering the water to let us out
on the other tide of the fluice. The fecond
gates I think are juft opening and we mall
go on. Indeed I wifh we were out of this
hole for I can not fee to write at prefent, we
are fo low in the pot, as we call it, with
two high walls on each fide.

I have j ufl been landing at the head of
my boat to enjoy the beautiful views of the
Brenta. Upon my word it is here a moil
delightful river, not for the ftream of water,
which has nothing very particular, but the
houfes and trees interfperfed upon the fides
render it charming. I believe indeed I am
in the prettieft part. It is worfe near Padova,

and

ifio LETTERS FROM

&nd when you approach Venice I am afraid
the fea will too much predominate.

As I was before hindered from going on
by the darknefs of the iluice, I mall now be
obliged to flop from the approach of evening,
without I can get a candle. We have ftill
eight or nine miles to go before wc arrive at
Venice,

LET-

I

ItALY, GERMANY, &c. 461

LETTER XLIIL

Upon the Brenta, 3 o'clock afternoon,
Saturday, Oft. 17, 17 61.

Am at prefent in the fame fort of veffel
I was in at writing my laft paper. The only
difference was, that I was then going to
Venice, and I am now returning to Padua.
The weather had then too returned to be
fine, but the iky is at prefent covered with
clouds. The fea was even rather ftormy in
my paffage from Venice to the terra firma, that
is, as rough as water almoft. furrounded by
land can be. Indeed it is rather a large lake
in which Venice is fituated than the fea, and
from hence is called by the natives them-
f elves Lagunes. I am late, as you will fee
by the hour figned above, however as I have
taken two horfes to tug my bark along, I
hope to get to Padua before the gates are

fhut-

*6a LETTERS FROM

fhut. I was delayed this morning at Venice
longer than I intended. My tranfa&ions
there were not very remarkable. Upon my
arrival in the watery town in my burchklloy
I intended to have gone in it quite to the
houfe where I Was to lodge. But as the
water was high, my clumfy veffel could not
pafs under one of the bridges, with which
moil of the ftreets are crofled, and the wideft
of all with the Rialto. Venice is almofr.
the only place in the Mediterranean where
there is any fenfible tide, and that not above
a foot or two at mod. I was obliged there-
fore to call a gondola, who ply like hack-
ney coaches, and in which I was placidly
conveyed to my locanda or hotel. As it
was dark I faw little of the city that night,
but bufinefs and vifits carried me over the
greater! part of it next morning. Its fitua-
tion is certainly the oddeft of any town upon
the face of the earth, but I mould think it
mufl: be a difagreeable place to refide in con-
ftantly. There can not be a greater fmell of

pitch

ITALY, GERMANY, Sec. aH

pitch and tar on board fhip. Views of Venice
look pretty in a picture, but painting can not
exprefs the bad fmells of the canals. All
the buildings too are reprefented in the fame
bright perfpe&ive, as if they were new. To
look at them in reality many appear very
rufty. Nor can you take any exercife with-
out firft rowing three miles to terra-firma to
mount your horfe. You may indeed walk
in St. George's garden, but the fea water
hinders any trees from growing in that or
other places. And yet I have feen pretty
good timber near the fea-beach in fouthern
countries. That however is the common
opinion with us. After having finifhed my
vifits I went to Murano upon bufinefs. It
is an ifland a mile or two from Venice.
There are a number of little iilands fcattered
about the lake in which Venice is fituated,
which are all inhabited. The expanded fur-
face of placid water broken at a diftance by
buildings, formed an agreeable perfpec~tive,
while I lay reclined at my eafe in the gon-
dola.

LETTERS FROM

dola. At low water the view is not fo beau*
tiful, as fome of the fea- weeds appear upon
the furface. The fhallownefs of the lake
adds to the ftrength of the town, as, tho'
too deep for infantry to march through, it
would not admit large veflels of war, except
by one channel, which the Venetians would
take care to block up, and deftroy the marks
that now point it out. Famine indeed would
conquer it, which tho' a tardy operation,
Ihews it is not abfolutely impregnable, as the
Inhabitants boafh

We are come to a place called the Mira,
and are in the pot of a fluke. We are
riling at prefeilt, as we are going up the
river, but only to afcend into the jaws of
a hundred beggars, who are peeping over the
brink. I am now almofl upon a level with
the ground and their cries pierce my ears,
while their heads are ftooping down and
peeping iii at the windows of my bark.

A col-

Italy, Germany, &c. ^i

A collation of boiled chefnuts and grapes,
which I bought to get fome change for the
vociferous mendicants, has flopped my writ-
ing for fome little time, but they being con-
fumed, and two horfes trotting along at prefent
with my veflel in tow, nothing hinders me
from going on with my account of Venice.

This famous republic, founded as early as
I have mentioned to you, has for a long
courfe of centuries preferved itielf uncdn-
quered, tho' oppofed by powerful enemies.
The Turk in vain employed all his ftrength
to crufh her, and the conquerors of Afia
fled before the veffels of a fmall ariftocracy.
But me was {till in more danger when the
greateft part of Europe united againft her
in the league of Cambray, but her arms
repelled the attacks of France, Spain* Italy,
and Germany, while her policy found means
to divide her enemies. In the very time of
thefe contefts unrivalled commerce fpread
her fails, and all the fpices of India pafled
Vol. III. G g through

466 LETTERS FROM

through her hands. But the heroic valor
of Vafco de Gama in paffing the cape of
Good- hope, gave from the fouth pole an
unexpected, wound to the Venetians, and
the commodities which had come by land
over the iithmus of Suez, were brought a
cheaper way by fea to the coafts of Portugal.
As other nations foon fhared with the Por-
tuguefe in this new difcovery, Venice faw
the fource of her opulence precluded, with-
out being able to complain of her adverfa-
ries, and from that time me has confiderably
funk ill the fcale of Europe. The Turks
drove her out of Candia, and fhe was ob-
liged to abandon the claffical fields of Greece
to thofe barbarians. But ftill I think fhe
may keep what remains to her, and conti-
nue one of the moil refpectable powers in
Italy. Her own almoit impregnable capital
bids her laugh at any enemy, tho' if fhe
loft her pofieffions upon the continent, her
fituation would not be enviable, and they
would join extremely wrell to the dominions

of

Italy, Germany, &c. 467

©f the houfe of Auftria. However, I do
not think that at prefent any farther en-
croachments will be made. But the .repub-
lic by no means retains her ancient fpbndor,
and the fupercilioufnefs . of fome of her
fenators oftentimes difpleafes her lubjects.
The whole nation are Haves to the fenate,
and the fenators to each other* The inqui-
fition of ftate is a tribunal of the moft for-
midable nature. Tho' it confifts only of
three perfons annually elected from the fe-
nate, its authority is fo uncontrouled as to
be able to put any citizen to death, fenator
or plebeian, without any trial or even rea-
fon given for it. Their property is alfo at
their difpofah Nothing can mitigate the
horror of this tribunal, but its fo frequently
going into the hands of different noblemen.
Yet ftill no perfon dares utter a word upon
public matters, and a nobleman was obliged
to afk pardon of the fenate for having by
miftake juft. entered into the gondola of our
refident, as they are forbidden to have any
Gg j intercourfe

46§ LETTERS FROM

interconrfe with public minifters. This
miftake is moil eafy to be made at a pub-
lic place, as all the gondolas are covered
with black cloth. There is a law to this
purpofe, that perfons may not run to an
expensive emulation in adorning their barks *
The regulation may be good, but it makes
the town very melancholy with all thofe
black hearfes gliding along the watery ftreets
of it. Upon my return from Murano I
went to the fquare of St. Mark, which is
noble, but not very large, and at the end of
it fland the doge's palace and the fenate
houfe. I can not leave my difcourfe upon
this town without mentioning the arfenal,
which is well worth feeing, and where there
are a number of mips and gallies ready for
putting to lea* and among the reft the Bucin-
toro, or magnificent galley on which the
doge mounts, when he weds the fea upon
Afcen lion- day, a ceremony originally intro-
duced to lhew the republic's dominion over
the Adriatic. A ring is thrown into the

water

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 4^9

water in token of the efpoufals, but a thread
tied to it fecures it as a perquiiite to fome
of the officers. The words pronounced are,
M Defponfamus te, mare, in Jignum verl ct per-
" petril imperil.''' * The Venetian empire
over the Adriatic is however, difputed by
fome nations, and I confefs I am of opinion
with Grotius, that the fea is not capable of
propriety, in contradiction to our learned
Selden,

Padua, half after 7 o'clock.

A N accident hindered my proceeding hi
the bark any further than to a place called
the Duolo. The Brenta was fo fwoln by
the late rains, (not that I think we have
had much at Venice,) however, perhaps
from the melting of the fnow upon the
Alps, there was fuch a flood, that the
gates of the fluke at the Duolo, could not

* IC We efpoufe thee, O fea, in token of our true and
(£ perpetual empire over thee."

G g 3 be

470 LETTERS FROM

be opened. The Brenta, the Po, the Adige,
and all other rivers which come from the
mountains of the Tirole, are very fubjecT: to in-
undations, from the water or fnow pouring
down from their elevated fummits. The
former indeed, is generally a caufe of the
latter. For as there is continually fnow
upon the fummits, whenever any rain falls
it melts fome part of it. But we may have
more differtations about that mountainous
province, as I am fo Ihortly to pafs through
it. Finding myfelf not able to proceed any
farther by water, fome other expedient was
to be thought of to get to Padua, and after
various difficulties I hired a little open chair
with two horfes, which are common in
fhefe parts of Italy, and left my baggage
and fervant to wait till the morning. Upon
ftarting I found myfelf in the middle of a
vortex of dirt. The lownefs and opennefs
of the carriage, the badnefs of the road,
and the galloping of the horfes, was the
caufe of my being furrounded by this new

atmofphere*

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 47*

atmofphere. Indeed by going flow I could
have avoided becoming a mud wall, for
fuch was my exterior appearance upon my
arrival at Padua, but as the horfes at firft
letting out had done almoft as much damage
as was poffible, I thought it heft to proceed,
that I might arrive time enough for the
Padovan gates, which are fhut about an
hour and a half after fun^fet. Befides I
had a Pruffian cloak, which preferved my
cloaths from fuffering by the eddy of mud,
which was flying round me. As my ehaife
was fo little and went fo faft, and ,as long"
before I got to Padua it was dark, I was
fomething afraid of being overturned, but I
comforted myfelf with there being fo much
clay all about, that I mould fall as foft as
upon a feather bed. Not but that precipices,
gave me fome uneafy fenfations from time
to time, for there are many in thefe countries,
as they are forced to make dykes again ft all
their rivers, and very often the road goes
upon the top of them. But the gates of
G g 4. Padua

472 LETTERS FROM

Padua at laft appeared in view through the
obfcurity of the night, when I foon reached
the inn, which at prefent fhelters me, by
name the Star,

A melancholy perfon has been walking up
and down the great hall adjoining to my

room. At times he retired a little into his
own apartment and played upon the German
flute. The patheticnefs of the airs, and the
Scotch turn they had, made me enquire who
it was, and I found it to be lord Elcho, ba-
nifhed for ever from his native country for
one ram ftep, and condemned to be a perpe-
tual vagabond upon the face of the earth, and
dependent upon the charity of foreigners,
O houfe of Stuart, how many haft thou
drawn into that fatal vortex, which has ever
been ready to ingulph thy fons !

yT«

JTALY, GERMANY, &c. 473

LETTER XLIV,

Padua, ii o'clock morning,
Tuefday, Oct. 20, 1761.

W E have had nothing but rain fince I
lafl took up my pen. Many different opini-
ons have been offered about my departure for
Germany tomorrow morning. • Some fay I
mall be able to go away and others not, upon
account of the waters, which are imagine^
to be out towards Trevifo and BafTanof

Going into a church this morning I faw
fome boys, who were receiving inftruclion in
the Chriftian doctrine from a frier. I with
my guide fat me down a little behind the
youths to partake of their inftru&ion. The
fubjecl: treating of was, the nature of the
punilhment of the damned. We trembled
at the defcription of fire and brimftone, but

ftttl

474 LETTERS FROM

ftill more when the frier informed us, that
this was nothing at all. " No," fays he,
" the greatefl punifhment of the damned
" is being deprived of the prefence of God,
" who being our beginning and end, think
" what torment it muft be to live without
" our beginning and without our end. Which
tl of thefe two punifhments do you think
" the worft, little Francifco ?" faid the pre-
ceptor : and the child naturally anfwering,
the fire, he received a rap upon his knuckles
with a wand the pedagogue carried in his
hand, and was ordered to give more atten-
tion to what was told him. From punifh-
ments we glanced away to the fins which
occalioned them, and by their recital put
many ideas into the childrens heads, which
I dare fay they never had before. Speaking
of eating meat in lent time, the preceptor
alked us, if we did not think it unjufl for a
temporary crime, (for he could eat a nicely
dreffed fowl in half an hour,) that we mould
undergo eternal condemnation. We all looked

as

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 4?$

as if we were of that opinion, till he told us
that it was not the duration of the crime,
but the eternity of that Being who was of-
fended, which rendered the punifhment eter-
nal. Upon this decifion I was obliged to
come away, as my guide did not feem to re-
lifh the lecture fo much as myfelf, and told
me it was time for us to be going.

My fears are but too true. The mafler
of the chaife I have hired to carry me to
Augfbourg, has juft been at the inn, to in-
form me, that it is impoflible to go away
tomorrow; that the waters are all out and
there is no pairing. As I can not fight againft
inundations of rivers, I mull: even be con-
tent and divert myfelf at Padua as well as I
can.

LET-

476 LETTERS FROM

LETTER XLV.

Trente, 1 1 o'clock in the morning,
Sunday, October 25, 1761.

jlx S you will fee by my date I am arrived
at the famous city of Trente in the Tirole,
the ancient Rhaetia. I am now furrounded
by the mountains that divide Italy from the
reft of the world ; for the Tirole, tho' it goes
by another name, is nothing but a continua-
tion of the Alps, and the Romans only con-
fidered it as fuch, tho* they gave it the
name of Rhastia. Indeed, it has the advan-
tage of having a very good road through it,
which the Alps, properly fo called, have
not. From Padua to this place we have
gone moft part of the way upon the banks of
the Brenta. We are now come to thofe of
the Adige, upon which Trente is lituated,
and mail follow its courfe for a great part of

the

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 477

the Tirole. In thefe countries, where the

mountains are fo high, that it is impoffible

to pafs over the fnow-clad fummits, there is

no way of travelling, but by the fides of

rivers which lead through them. The gufh-

ing of the torrents, with the hills riling on

each fide of them, form molt picturefque

views. I have bid adieu then to Italy, which

I can not deny to be an agreeable country,

tho' it has its drawbacks as well as others.

There was a great quantity of water in the

roads hither, notwithstanding the floods are

faid to have decreafed near three or four feet.

We were even obliged to take a guide to

fhew us fome round about ways in order to

avoid the greateft part of the inundations.

At length we arrived to the banks of the

Brenta, which we palled in a ferry, and

from thence continued our courfc to this

place. We paifed by the Covolo, a fortrefs

belonging to the emprefs queen, where the

foldiers are drawn up into a hole in the rock,

and would not fear an enemy, if they could

live

47$ LETTERS FROM

live upon air. The city of Trente, where
I am at prefeilt, is famous for the Roman
catholic council held here about two hun-
dred years ago. It was affembled to coun-
teract the doctrines of the proteftants, which
had fpread through all the northern parts of
Europe. It began under the pontificate of
Pius the fourth. The council was firfl
held in the year 1545, and concluded after
divers interruptions in the year 1563. You
may imagine they vented much bile in it
againfl the proteftants, and condemned, or,
as my landlord calls it, fulminated all their
tenets. They (hewed me the place where
it was affembled, and many other things,
but nothing worth recounting. The city of
Trente is governed by a biihop, and is one
of thofe confufed forts of conftitutions in
Germany, where, notwithstanding the bi«
mop's being called fupreme in fpiritual and
temporal affairs, he is, in fome meafure,
fubjecl: to the city of Infprngh, or to the
government of the queen of Hungary. In

matters

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 479

matters of confequence the confent of the
town of Infprugh is neceffary to ratify his
laws. However, they call this bifhop their
fovereign, and in all common things he is
fuch. The language commonly talked here
is Italian, notwithfhnding the city is great-
ly inhabited by German merchants and
tradefmen, and the greater! number of
the fervants are Germans. The talking
Italian is neceffarily derived from the neigh-
bouring commerce with Italy, of which.
Trente was anciently called the gates.

■ Mox inde Tridentum

Venimus, Italics quae prima eft janua terrce.

I have finifhed my defcription of the
government of Trente, and as the poftilion is
ready to go away, I fhall leave the place, and
the defcription of it at the fame time.

Saint

44q LETTERS FROM

Saint Michael ditto in the evening,

W E have penetrated farther into moun*
tains,

Green with high groves that wave amid the cloud?.

AME. PHILIPS.

Thofe at a diftance are covered with eternal
fnow, and render the air very keen and
fharp. There is a mofh fatal cuftom too in
the houfe where I am at prefent, of not
lighting np the ftoves till the firft of No-
vember, tho' I have by perfuafion got them to
put fome fire into mine, but it requires time
to heat the atmofphere, Thefe ftoves are
certainly the moil: difagreeable contrivances
for foreigners that were evgr invented.
You can not fee a bit of the flame of the
fire, but this is the leaft of their incon-
veniencies. What I find the greateft is,
that the fire is by thefe means kept all with-
in the room, the fuffocating heat of which

is

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 481

is like an oven and caufes no fmall head-aches.
Nor has cuftom during the year I ftayed at
Leipzig, taught me to bear them. In ele-
gant houfes, however, where the ftove is
well formed, it makes a very pretty orna-
ment. It looks like a pyramidical funeral
pile in honor of fome hero. But looks can
never compenfate for the difagreeablenefs of
their feel, and I declare I have often waked
gafping for breath at Leipzig from the quan-
tity of fuel put into them from without
before I got up. However, to mew you the
difference of opinions, a German author I
have upon the table fpeaks of them as
follows .

" There has never been a better, or more
" convenient invention than our lloves. At
" a fire in a chimney you can neither per-
M fectly heat yourfelf, nor have you the
" liberty of moving about as you pleafe, as
" you muil: keep clofe to the grate to be
<c warm. Befides, the blaze of the fire is

Vol. III. H h « pre-

4S2 LETTERS FROM

" prejudicial to the eye fight. But with
" floves, as the whole air ia the room is
" heated, you have the liberty of moving
*' about as much as you pleafe, and of per-
*' forming, without any inconvenience,
'" whatever buiinefs you may have to do.
" The poor people, by their affiftance, pafs
" all the winter without fuffering the leaft
" cold, and are at a fmall expence for fuel
" and cloaths."

My fervant has fupped, and I am going
to bed. The declivity of German beds
makes at leaft an angle of forty- five degrees
with the horizon. That which I am going
into at prefent is not quite fo much elevated,
but I have not as yet penetrated far into
Germany. I then expedr. to find a feather-
bed put on the top of me as well as under-
neath, and be packed up for the night like a
jewel in cotton.

Obman,

/TALY, GERMANY, &c. 483

Obman, Tuefday, OCt 27, 1761
half after 11, morning.

The country thro' which we have paffed this
morning, and indeed quite fromTrente hither,
is pretty, always upon the banks of the
Adige, which has been our conftant com-
panion from that city, as the Brenta was
before we came to it. The mountains of
the Tirole are now become very beautiful
and covered with trees. At the beginning of
it they were more barren. From time to
time they are interfperfed with the moft de-
lightful hoary cafcades, which tumble down
from rock to rock, and form the moft charm-
ing fcenes imaginable. I confefs myfelf a
vaft advocate for mountainous countries, and
wifn it was in my power always to live in
them. The mind is elevated at the fight of
thefe craggy rocks ; and the hand of an
Almighty Creator feems more vifible in thefe
ftupendous mounds of earth before me, than
in the more placid tracts of level ground.
H h z Many

484 LETTERS FROM

Many are the fnow-clad fummits" on which
human foot never trod. I doubt whether the
birds raife their flight to thofe inhofpitable
regions. Bears and wolves alone poflefs the
hoary forefts, and look down upon the fub-
jacent valleys undifturbed by man. Tre-
mendous as are the craggy tops, fo fertile
are the vallies. The vine is every where
cultivated, and produces tolerable wine. The
drefs of the inhabitants, which is commonly
green, adds to the ruralnefs of the fcene, and
the foaming Adige, from whofe banks rife
forefts of ftrait pines, compleats the whole.
I have nothing to complain of but the cold,
and the harmnefs of the language which now
founds all about me. Both are more fenfible
by coming from fouthern climates, and
leaving the loft tone of the Italian. Re-
doubled confonants now grate upon my
ear, and I almoft agree with the grammarian,
who calls German a language for his horfes.

Stertzen,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 485

Stertzen, Wednefday, 0£t. 28, 1761.
12 o'clock at noon.

What cold I have felt in my journey this
morning ! The farther you penetrate among
the mountains, the higher they grow, and
the marper the weather feels. We had rain
this morning, and fnow upon the tops of the
mountains. The road has been much of
the fame fort as that we have for fome time
paffed, that is by the fide of the Adige, with
mountains on each hand of us. It is
very good, at lead at prefent, now we
are advanced into the Tirole, for at the
beginning it was flony and bad, but wre
went a bye-way to avoid the floods. We
are now got much too high for any thing of
that kind, and fhall in the evening be in the
center of thefe mountains, from whence we
fhall defcend as gradually as we have hither-
to rifen.

H h 3 I can

486 LETTERS FROM

I can fpeak little to you about the people,
as I only keep company with inn-keepers,
and the few perfons I meet upon the road.
One of thefe feemed a fmart young man this
morning, but me proved afterwards an Italian
dancing girl, who was returning from Brunf-
wick with her cully. He is of Liege and
drelTed in the German, or rather beariih
fafhion, with a great furred cloak and a night-
cap, that, makes him look like a Friezeland
hen, the common night-caps in Germany
being made of that frizled fort of commodity.
The lady is more elegant. She has a fort of
black velvet travelling jockey cap. This added
to a red coat and a blue waiftcoat brocaded
with filver, makes her a perfect contrafl to
her inamorato : however, I mnft confefs he is
much better drefled for this rugged clime.

Ditto, at an inn upon the top of the mountain
of Brenner, 8 o'clock at night.

All the country round about is covered
with fnow, and my feet were quite dead with

cold

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 487

cold when I firft came in. As there was no
fire in any of the ftoves, I was obliged to be
content with that of the kitchen for fome
time. There were, indeed, two kitchen fires
oppofite each other in a narrow room, fo that
I had the pleafure of having fome heat on
both fides. By thefe means I renewed the
vital warmth in my body, and am come here
into my room to write. The ftove has not
received heat enough as yet, to give any fen-
fation of it to the inhabitants of the room.
My hands are even got again fo cold, that I
can hardly write. But they tell me iupper
is juft coming, which I hope will warm me,
and then I will continue my paper.

There is not as yet a proper alliance
formed between German cookery and my
ftomach, though a quantity of ftewed prunes
I fwallowed is attempting to expel the hof-
tile particles, and reftore peace and harmony
there. In the mean time an old woman is
making my bed, for upon the continent we
H h 4 do

483 LETTERS FROM

do not think it any derogation from our
honor, to eat and fleep in the fame room.
The German double feather bed is putting
in order. This manner of lying feems a
little particular to a perfon, who comes from
Italy and Spain, where they ufe no feather
beds at all. Indeed in hot countries they
are difagreeable, however in our raw climate,
one as we ufe may be borne with. But ano-
ther ftill on top feems as if the people had
a mind to bury you in feathers.

Untevfhoenberg, quarter after 1 2 at noon,
Thurfday, Odlober 29, 1761.

Notwithstanding the fnow which envi-
roned my inn upon the mountain this morn-
ing, I was obliged to get up before the fun
had begun to cheer the face of nature. I had
not gone far before I found it fo cold in the
chaife, that, notwithftanding the road was
dirty, I thought it better to go on foot, and

warm

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 489

warm myfelf, than perifh in fedentary clean-
linefs. I believe I walked near five miles.
As the poftilion did not appear with my equi-
page, I fat down tired upon a hill impending
over the village at which I am at prefent.
The fun (hone bright, but I could not ob-
ferve his dimini(hed altitude without iighing
for the comfortable rays of that luminary,
which I felt in Spain and Italy. The place
was pretty. The foaming river Inne was
roaring about a hundred yards below me,
and bearing its tribute to the Danube. This
is the name of the torrent which has fuc-
ceeded to the Adige, and by the lides of which
we always go now. The rivers on the fide
of the mountain Brenner, on which we are at
prefent, all run towards Germany. On the
other fide of it they all bend their courfe to
Italy. So that as I have been afcending from
Padova hither, I fhall now have a little def-
cent quite to Holland. I mean an impercep-
tible declivity, but that Holland is lower than
where I am at prefent is undoubted, from the

Rhine's

49o LETTERS FROM

Rhine's running from thefe mountains thi-
ther. The Rhine indeed, properly rifes in
Switzerland, but it is the fame chain of hills
which extend from thence quite hither, and
inclofe Italy. Notwithstanding the great
roaring the Inne makes in its defcent, it is
but a little river here, as you will imagine,
when you confider it only has begun its
courfe from the top of the mountain I was
upon this morning. The Adige and Inne
derive their fources almoft from the fame
place, but take different iides of the moun-
tain, whofe declivity makes their courfe fo
fonorous. It looks beautiful to fee them
half blue and half white, beating along the
ftones as they rum down. The Inne at
leafr, looked very pretty from the place where
I fat, inclofed in its channel by fteep hills
covered with firs, and to inrich the view,
there was the little village of Unterftioen-
burg in the bottom, where I am at prefent

lodged.

Ditto

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 491

Ditto in the evening, Infprugh.

UPON my arrival in this capital of the
Tirole I was obliged to walk about to two or
three places to get my paffport through the
queen of Hungary's territories confirmed.
There are ten Pruflian general officers, prifo-
hers of war, here, in Infprugh. There are
likewife fome other inferior officers with
them, none of whom can certainly get out
of thefe mountains without the emprefs
queen's confent. She abfolutely commands
all the paffes of Italy on this fide. I ima-
gine a few thoufand men could defend the
Tirole againil: the world. The Brenni were
the ancient inhabitants of this country, and
it harboured divers barbarous nations after
the fall of Rome, till it came into the
hands of the houfe of Auitria, who had ex-
tended their empire over the neighbouring
cantons of Switzerland, but were driven out
by that enthufiafm of liberty, which feized

thofe

49* LETTERS FROM

thofe mountaineers. As for Infprugh it
feems a large town, but its buildings par-
take of the ruggednefs of the rocks, which
furround it. The hills however, are re-
moved at fomewhat a greater diftance, and
the valley in which it is iituated appears fer-
tile. It is watered by the river Inne, from
whence I fuppofe the town derives its name;
I have been fo inclofed with mountains that
I breathe a little at this opening, but it will
be ftill fome time before I mail be able to be-
hold a free horizon. I love hills, but we have
been lately too much penned up with rocks
of a ftupendous height.

Seafelt, half after 12, noon,
Friday, Oft. 30, 1761.

Ihavejufl: dined. Before dinner I went
to the little church of the place. A lay frier,
who belonged to the adjoining convent,
fhewed me a little hole before the principal
altar, whereunto hangs the following tale,

written

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 495

written in large characters, and hung up in a
confpicuous place of the church, in Latin,
Englifh, French, German, Spanifh, and Ita-
lian. How fuch a ftory can be publicly pro-
claimed in a facred place you will join with
me in wondering.

In the year 1384, one Ofwald Milfer, a
gentleman of diftinction in this country, had a
mind to receive the facrament in this church.
You know the Roman catholics inftead of
bread make ufe of wafers, which they blefs
in the fame manner as we do. The effect
indeed, is efteemed different. We only allow
our bread and wine to be holy after the con-
fecration, the Roman catholics maintain, that
theirs becomes the body and blood of our
Saviour. They have alfo two forts of wafers,
or hofls, (oftias in Latin,) which they confe-
crate. One made in the form of a larger
circle which the priefts ufe when they fay
mafs, and another of lefs dimenfions for the
laity, who have a mind to receive the com-
munion.

494 LETTERS FROM

munion. Mr. Ofwald Milfer thought him-
felf fo great a perfonage as to deferve the
larger mouthful inftead of the lefs, and in
confequence ordered the prieft. to give him the
former. The clergyman not having a mind to
difoblige a great man, or for fome other reafon,
complied with his requeft, but no fooner had
the wafer entered his mouth than the ground
opened, and he began finking down to the
black Tartarean abyfs. He grafped the altar
in defcending, and the prieft ran and took
the confecrated wafer out of his mouth.
When, oh horrible ! the prieft beheld upon
the wafer the marks of the aggrefTor's teeth,
which in fome places had made blood iffue
out from it, and in others had left black and
blue marks. Ofwald Milfer finding himfelf
up to his knees under ground, fainted away.
But at laft he came to himfelf, and mocked
at the prodigy, of which he had been the in-
ftrument, retired to a country houfe, where
he lived the remainder of his life, (two
years) in the moft auftere penance., The

opening

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 49$

opening of the ground before the altar is
the hole which is fhewn to this day. His
wife too fuffered as much as himfelf, for not
believing, when he returned melancholy
home, what he told her. She faid it was as
impoflible as for frefh rofes to moot up from
the table before her, when lo ! frefh rofes
fprung up from the table. This prodigy
ftruck her mind, fhe burfr. out of the room
and ran howling into the woods. She re-
mained there, and fhunning every human
creature, nourifhed herfelf in the fame man-
ner as the wolves.

Mittlewolt ditto in the evening.

I am at length out of the queen of Hun-
gary's territories, and in thofe of the elector
of Bavaria. A fortrefs about two miles from
this place, after having paffed through it,
delivered me from the roughnefs of her
officers, who feem to want that civility exr
perienced in other nations upon the conti-
1 nent.

45^ LETTERS FROM

nent. We left the mountains, and the good
roads at the fame time, and I thought we
fhould have left the Italian poftilion too,
who was put under arreft for doing what
nobody could do for him behind the angle
of a fortification. But we got him off for
money, and he has been fwearing all the
way fince, that he never faw fuch a country
in his life, where it is not lawful to exone-
rate nature.

Bachen Kirchen, half after 1 1 in the morning,
Saturday, October 31, 1761.

We have had very bad roads from Mittle-
wolt hither. They are fo narrow, that the
generality of carriages can hardly pafs along
them. As the vehicle I am in at prefent
was made on purpofe, I have come along
pretty well. But I remember the firfl time
I went through Bavaria, to go from Leipzig
to Rome, fome country people were forced
to work a long time with pick- axes and

ihovels,

Italy, Germany, &c. 497

fhovels, before they could make a way for
the German built coach I then had. I have
fome fufpicion they fill up the roads on pur-
pofe to get money from pauengers by open-
ing them again. At lean:, they have worked
for fo many perfons I know, that the roads
ought to be wide enough for any carriage at
prefent, which is not the cafe*

Vol. III. Ii LET-

498 LETTERS FROM

A

LETTER XLVI.

IiTen, 8 o'clock in the evening,
Sunday, November i, 1761.

S ufual, juft come from warming my
feet at the kitchen fire. We arrived here
late this evening, near an hour and a half
after dark. The poftilion was delayed this-
morning, in order to hear mafs, and made
this puiTi to be able to get tomorrow to
Augfbourg. We got a man to go with us
as a guide at a village about fix miles from
hence. He had a lanthorn, with a twink-
ling farthing candle in it, which he carried
before us under pretence of giving light.
In this manner, tho' with fome little fear,
I arrived fafe to the place which now fhelters
me. My apprehenfions were increafed by
the great proximity of the bottom of my
wheels to each other, which I was afraid

might

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 499

might be the occafion of an overturn. My
chaife wheels are made purpofely fo con-
verging at the lower part, upon account of the
flreightnefs of the roads in Bavaria. Tomor-
row morning, fourteen or fifteen miles from
hence, I mall quit this electorate, and come
tinder the dominion of the town of Augf-
ibourg, which is a free city of the empire.

Lcichfelt, ii o'clock in the morning,
Monday, November 2, 1761.

W E fet out from IfTen about an hour
before it was light this morning. A man
preceded with a lanthorn as laft evening.
But at fun-rife, or more properly, when it
was light, he abandoned us. I fay more
properly when it was light, as the fun has
not rifen viiibly to day. We have had an
Englifh mifty morning. The country too
about this place refembles our downs, the
only one of that nature I have ever feen out
of England. I am now no longer in Bavaria*
I i % Tfre

|do LETTERS FROM

The little village which harbours me a£
prefent is under the dominion of Augibourg^

Since dinner I have been about the village
feeing the German ideas of images and
flatues. With regard to things of this kind,
the farther you go from Rome, the more you
find of them. The Roman catholic religion
feems to have much greater force in its ex-
tremities than in its centre. They have
what they call a mount Calvary in this
village, which is an artificial mount raifed
up jufl before the church, upon tne top of
which there is a large crucifix, and on each
fide of it the two thieves hanging, tinder
the crofs St. John, the Virgin Mary, and
Mary Magdalen fland weeping. Round
about the mount were various other figures,1
which I have not time to defcribe, as the
poftilion is going away.

Augfbourg

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. $o*

Augfbourg, ditto in the evening, feven o'clock.

I am jufl arrived, tho' late, to the mighty
city appointed for the congrefs of the peace,
which goddefs does not, however, feem as
yet to be willing to take np her fojourn in
Europe, tho' the ambaffadors of the refpec-
tive nations have hired their houfes, and my
landlord tells me their baggage is already
come. Augfbourg is, as I have faid, one of the
free cities of the empire, which are a kind of
republics, but dependent in great things, up?
on the imperial diet.

We have got a marriage at the inn where
I am, and all the houfe is illuminated upon
the occafion. The muficians have ftruck up,
and the company is got to dancing, but as I
am dirty from my journey, I am not capable
of appearing at an Hymeneal feftivity. Va-
rious interruptions to which travellers are
fubjedt, have taken up my time, and a great
I i 3 inter-

502 LETTERS FROM

interruption, tho' not difagreeable, is juft ar-
rived, which is fupper.

Encouraged by my German food, and in
fpightof my drefs, I have been (landing a
little at the door of the room, where the
new married couple and their company are
dancing. The bride is not an ugly woman,
but difguifed by her bridal drefs, the mod
remarkable part of which coniifts in what
they call a tower, or a prodigious black creft
rifing above a foot over her head. The
company was very civil, and invited me into
the room. I excufed myfelf upon account
of my travelling habit, fo unfuited to a
marriage ceremony. Not that I believe the
perfons were of any great rank, by celebrate
ing their nuptials at an inn, but the being
cloathed in your bell: apparel feems effential
to a wedding. However many of the gentry
are juft gone away in their coaches, which is
a fign that they are not beggars.

Augibourg,

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 503

Augfbourg, Tuefday, November 2t
ij6i, half after 11 morning,
I have been at a coffee-houfe, where
amidft a cloud of fmoke and tobacco, which
the morning fun does not hinder the Ger^
mans from puffing, I have found a piece of
news which furprized me, viz. that Mr. Pitt
was out of place. I am afraid it is but too
true, as the Leyden gazette, from whence I
had my information, is reckoned a pretty
good authority. From the corFee-houfe I
went towards the Roman catholic cathedral,
but I foon thought it beft to return home, as
the weather threatened rain. I fay the Ro-
man catholic cathedral, becaufe proteftaiits
and Roman catholics are pretty nearly of an
equal number in this town, and being upon
the fame footing, have both their refpective
churches. Friers and Lutheran minifters
appear walking about the ftreets in their
proper habits. They feem to fcowl, how-
ever, a little at each other when they meet,
I i 4 The

5o4 LETTERS FROM

The Lutherans go dreffed in a long full
black gown, and a prodigious white ruff
about their necks. Every thing with regard
to religion is halved in this city. Half the
people interefted in the government are pro-
teftants, and half Roman catholics, and the
fame with every thing elfe, according to the
treaty of Weftphalia, by wThich the thirty
years war of religion in Germany was ter-
minated juft as things flood at that time.
They fay there are fome places where the
two religions have but one church, and per-
form their refpective fervices in it at different
times. Both parties muft have been heartily
tired of hoftilities to enter into fuch a union,
tho' it is to be wifhed the reft of Europe
would take example from the prefent tolera,
ting behaviour of the Germans,

LET-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 505

LETTER XLVII.

Ulm, November 8, 1761.
Sunday, 1 1 o'clock, morning.

X Am arrived from Augfbourg to another
free city of the empire. Ulm is fituated
upon the Danube, which I pafled to enter it.
It continues extremely cold, and the ground
is covered with fnow, tho' not very deep.
Indeed as we approached towards this place
there was but little. We had more this
morning and yefterday towards Augfbourg.
We left that city on Wednefday laft, but not
very early, as the gates are not open before
feven. The chaife being .at laft ready, I
mounted into it. It was like our open chaifes
in England with four wheels. It had a
coachbox, which, as the poftilion rode one
of the horfes, remained unoccupied, till we
had gone three or four miles, when he re^

ceived

5o6 LETTERS FROM

ceived apedeftrian friend of his, and placed
him upon it. We got to dinner that day to
Summer-haufen, where having loft my
gloves, I fupplied myfelf with a pair of new,
proper for the climate. They were a great
pair of woollen hand-fhoes, the German
name for that part of our drefs, and which
are three inches thick I believe. In the even-
ing I came to Kingfbourg, a little village be-
longing to the queen of Hungary, where
they were confequently all Roman catholics,
and in the intereft of the houfe of Auftria.
This I foon found by a little converfation I
entered into with fome gentlemen who were
fitting at one of the tables of the public
room, for in this part of Germany the pub-
lic houfes always keep a parlour with a
number of tables in it, warm for the ufe
of their cuftomers.

My complimentary landlord here has
been talking in great praife of the Lutheran
church, and I intend to go and fee it. The

whole

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 507

whole town of Ulm is Lutheran. We begin
to come into the protefbnt parts of Germa-
ny. My landlord tells me that he is ready
to accompany me to fee the church.

Keifingen, ditto in the evening.

IT is more than nine o'clock, and I have
not been long arrived. The fetting out late,
and accidents upon the road, have delayed
me. I did not fet out till two o'clock, for
my landlord made me lofe much time in
feeing his Lutheran cathedral. I can not fay
but that it is a fine Gothic building. How-
ever the good gentleman had fuch a fury to
fhew me the curiofities of it, that he would
make me fee every trifle. Being fomething
like a churchwarden, I believe, he would
produce the gilded cups for the wine at the
facrament, as likevvife the wafers which the
Lutherans ufe for confecration inftead of
bread, for in this they agree with the Roman
catholics. They have alfo crucifixes in their

churches,

508 LETTERS FROM

churches, but no images of faints or any
thing of that nature. My landlord feems to
be a man very much refpected in the town,
at leaft we received many falutations from
almoft every perfon we met. The Lutheran
church in Ulm was anciently a Roman ca-
tholic cathedral.

I am fo tired I can not continue, and muft
drop the other immaterial circumftances that
have happened to me in my journey from
Auglbourg.

Ganzftadt, Monday, 9 November,
1761, feven o'clock in the evening.

THO' I thought of getting to Stutgard,
fortune has flopped me fhort at this little
town belonging to the duke of Wirtemberg,
as likewife the place where I dined, called
Uberfpach. Nor am I on the infide of the
town. I am covered by a wretched hut with-
out the walls of it. I believe my poftilion
loft his way this evening from Uberfpach, at
2 leaft

tf ALY, GERMANY, &c. 509

leaft we have had a difagreeable tedious jour-
ney hither. The roads in fome parts were
rather bad. Indeed it can not be otherwife
while they permit fuch great carts with
heavy weights to pafs along them. They
put ten horfes fometimes to thefe waggons,
and their wheels are not broader than com-
mon. We paffed this morning by a city
which I think is called Gebin. Tho' we
did not enter it, the fentries chofe to afk me
my name and quality. All the country here-
about is Lutheran, and is moflly fo quite
to Francfort*

I am fitting in my landlady's room, as it is
warmer than my own, in the ftove of which
the fire is but lately lighted. She is placed
on one fide of a table reading a Lutheran
book of devotion, and I am leaning on
the other, and writing. She feems much
fuch a fort of woman as the lady of one of
our inns in England.

Elim

510 LETTERS FROM

Elin, Tuefday, November io, 1761,
half after 1 afternoon.
UPON my arrival at this place, and afking
what was to be feen, my landlord conducted
me into a houfe where a marriage was cele-
brating between two country people. We
found however, upon our arrival, that the
company was not yet come. There were
indeed fome muficians, two of whom played
upon the French horns to divert us. But at
laft the bride and bridegroom appeared. Their
attendants prefented me with cakes, fprigs
of rofemary, and I do not know what. We
make ufe of rofemary for buryings, and the
Germans, with equal propriety, perhaps, pro-
duce it at their weddings.

Reiten, ditto in the evening.
AFTER dinner I returned with my landlord
to the houfe where the nuptials were carry-
ing on. All the company was affembled and
placed at dinner to the number of fifty or

fixty

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 511

fixty perfons. They would have had me
take a feat and eat along with them, but I
excufed myfelf as having dined. However
they made me eat a piece of cake, and drink
a glafs of wine. In the mean time the mu-
fic was playing, and every thing went on in
high jollity. After dinner the bride came to
me and would have me dance a minuet with
her. I in vain pleaded my boots as an ex-
cufe. I was forced to dance with her, and
afterwards with a lady of the company, for
tho' the bride was a country girl, there were
two or three ladies prefent at her wedding
dinner. As well as I could understand, one
was the parfon's wife, another the mayor or
burgomafter's wife, and people of that fort.
I talked but little, as German does not at all
run fluent from my tongue. Being fatisfled
at laft with dancing, and feeing curious
figures, and thinking my poftilion would be
glad to go away, I retired.

The

$it LETTERS FROM

The city I am in at prefent belongs to the
elector palatine. Its religion is a mixture of
Calvinifts, Lutherans, and Roman catholics.
My landlord informs me that there are ftill
fifteen German miles to Francfort. I really
believe a German mile makes at leafr. fix of
ours. According to this account we ought to
have near ninety miles to that city. My
landlord likewife informs me that I mall meet
with no French till I get there. The French
have a gaxrifon in Francfort.

A fine gentleman with half a dozen dogs
is jufl come into our inn. My landlord tells
me that he is an officer of the duke of Wir-
temberg's. By his dogs and drefs he looks
more like a fportfman than a warrior.

LET-

Italy, Germany, &c. $t3

LETTER XLVIII.

I

Heidelburg 7 o'clock morning,
Tnurfdayj Nov. 12, 1761.

SHOULD have' been gone away from
this place, where I lay laft nightj before
now, but one of the horfes has got a fhoe to
be put on. I could not write any thing ye{-
terday* as I i'pent it in company at the table
d' hote, which begin to be excellent. They
inform me* that I mall certainly meet with,
no French upon the road till I come to Franc -
fort. I pafTed yefterday morning through
Bruffen, where the bifliop of Spire dwells.
He has a very fine palace. His fentinels ex-
amined me in paffing through, and would
know my name, quality, and every thing.
Heidelburg, the town I am in at prefent,
feems a very large handfome city. It is not
far from Manheim, the capital of the elector

Vol. III. K k palatine,

5i4 LETTERS FROM

palatine. At leaft the elector palatine always
lives there. The Germans in this part of the
country do not feem to be great friends to the
French, or to like their incurlions into Ger-
many. It is laid the French army under
Broglio is at prefent but a few miles from
Hanover.

Hapenneim, ditto 3 o'clock
•« afternoon.

UPON my entry into the warm public
room of this houfe, the fir ft thing that fa-
luted my fight was, a couple of ill looking
huflars, who were fitting at a table. Before
them flood fomethinsc to eat and drink. All
together they were moft formidable figures,
particularly one of them, who glared upon
me at my entrance, and whofe long whifkers
and high cap added considerably to the flerce-
nefs of his look. The other was rather milder,
but had ftill a degree of fury in his appear-
ance. In fhort, they were two perfonages,

that

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 515

that I mould not at all like to meet at twelve
o'clock at night in a wood. They were in
the fervice of France, and were of Alfatia if
I miftake not. I entered into a converfation
with the milder, while I was warming my-
felf at the ftove. He fays he is come in eleven
days from the French army, which is now
at Einbeck. He complains prodigioufly of
the Hanoverians, and fays with many exe-
crations, that they would never let him eat
a morfel in peace. He and his Companion
are come I think to fee about winter quarters
for their regiment. While I was at dinner
my landlord entertained me with lamenta-
tions upon the miferies of war, and how
much corn and other things they were ob-
liged to give yearly to the^ French army.
This .village is in the elector of Mentz's do-
minions, who allows the French to take fo
much forage and proviiions annually from
his fubjects. Perhaps he grants it from not
being able to refufe fo powerful an intercef-
for. The Germans, however, in general do
K k 2 not

5l6 LETTERS F k O M

not feem to be friends to the French, and
yefterday at Heidelburg, Upon my telling a
gentleman, that I did not believe I mould
meet with any French between that place
and Francfort ; " Ah !" fays he, with a far-
caftic fmile, " thefe are enough of them every
" where." The regiment of huflfars, of which
the two prefent are a part, coming into win-
ter quarters here, does not feem at all agree-
able to my prefent landlord. He gave me,
as a fort of defert to my dinner, a fucceffion
of maledictions againft war and the effects
of it. The huflars are gone away and I
believe have taken to horfe.

Uberftadt, ditto in the evening.

THE village I am in at prefent belongs
to the duke or prince of Darmftadt. I in-
tended lying in the capital, but fate flopped
me fhort here. Coming out of a pretty
wood about twro or three miles from hence,
we faw the whole road gleam with arms,

which

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 517

which I thought at leaft was the French
coming to attack us, but found it was only
a regiment of the country changing quar-
ters.

Francfort upon the Maine, half after 7
in the evening, Friday, Nov. 13, 1761.

I am at lad: arrived in this town, after a
long half day's journey this morning. The
roads too are exceffively fandy as you ap-
proach towards Francfort, which made us
go very flow. Sandy roads and woods were,
I think, the only variety we had in our
route. We did, indeed, pafs through fome
villages, and under the walls of Darmftadt.
I thought I fhould have had a rigorous exa-
mination from the French upon my entry
into this city, but only a German grave
looking fort of a man faid any thing to me.
He afked me my name, and where I intended
to lodge, but did not trouble himfelf about
my nation. Satisfied with my anfwers, he
& k 3 let

518 LETTERS FROM

let me pafs, and upon entering Francfort, I
crofled the great bridge over the Maine, and
repaired to my inn called the Red Man.
I go away tomorrow morning in the public
boat for Mentz, not to lofe any time in my
return, and to be fecure from marauders,
which I mould be expofed to, if I travelled
by land. I intended to go to the French
play, but there was none this evening, and
inflead of that diverfion, I went to vifit a
gentleman for whom I had a letter, but I
did not find him at home. They told me I
mould meet with him at a certain coffee*
houfe, to which my guide conducted me,
I did not find him there neither, but, inflead
of him, I found a multitude of people in*
volved in a cloud of fmoke, and among
others a young French officer curioufly
dreffed, tho' prettily too, who feemed to
be eyeing the whole company with con^
fummate contempt.

ITALY, GERMANY, &c 519

Since my return home, my landlord has
been informing me of the manner in which
the French rendered themfelves mailers of
Francfort, that is put a garrifon into this
town; for, as to the civil government, they
have not in the lead interfered in it. They
demanded a paffage through Francfort for
their troops at Flanau. It was granted
them. When they were in the middle of
the town they halted, and told the inhabi-
tants that they were obliged to leave two or
three thoufand ibldiers there for their own
fecurity. There was no refuting fo many
men with mufkets upon their fhoulders, and
they accordingly took pofTeffion of all the
fortifications, to the no fmall difpleafure of
the citizens. Francfort is a free city of the
empire. The government is Lutheran.

Ditto eleven o'clock at night.

What do you think ? The very Irifli
nobleman who lodged over my head at

K k 4 Rom

52© LETTERS FROM

Rome is in this houfe, and I have been
flipping with him. A curious converfation
began after the cloth was taken away.
Upon mentioning our both being upon our
return to the Britiih iflands, he faid I was fo
unprejudiced a perfon, that he would venture
to afk advice of me. He then defired to
know if the Englifh cuftom-houfe officers
were very rigorous, and upon my alluring
him they were, confeffed he had the body
of a faint behind his chaife, which had been
given him by his holinefs to enrich the
altar of his chapel in Ireland, where thofe
of his periuafion would come in crouds for
confolation. Now as the whole authenticity
of the relique depended upon the papal feals,
he was afraid that the cuftom-houfe officers
might break them to fee what was within
fide. I could not help acknowledging that
I doubted whether much refpeft would be
ihewn to the pontifical fignet, and advifed
him to endeavour to find fome envoy or am-
baffador going to London, who would put it

among

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 521

among his other counterband things. He
thanked me for my information, and pro-*
mifed to do as I would have him,

Mentz, ten o'clock at night,
Saturday, Nov. 14, 1761.

I have come to day down the Maine in
the public bark to this place. I fet off at
ten o'clock. Thefe barks are like thofe in
Holland, that go away at a minute's warning.
The clock {truck ten, and at that inftant the
bark began to move. It looked like Noah's
ark, from the quantity of animals of all forts,
fizes and fexes that were in it. There were
many French foldjers and officers. I had
much entertainment in hearing their talk
pf war affairs, and other matters. Next me
in the boat fat two Flemim merchants, and
we have agreed to take a boat together to-
morrow morning to go to Cologne T How»-
ever, we have as yet not been able to find
pne, and we muff wait till the morning

dawns

5aa LETTERS FROM

dawns to continue our enquiries. Upon'
our arrival at Ex, about fix miles from
Francfort, our bark flopped, and as it was
to flay there an hour, I and the Flemifh
merchants went into the town to look
about us. By inftincl: we were led into an
inn, where many other people, who had
come along with us in the boat, had pre-
ceded us. Here we found a good meager
dinner ready. After having diluted an ex-
cellent dim of filh, with a proper quantity
of Rhenifh, the common wine of the coun-
try, we returned to our ftation in the boat,
and proceeded upon our journey. Between
five and fix o'clock we arrived to this town,
which is fituated upon the Rhine, near
where the Maine empties itfelf into that
river.

LET-

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 523

LETTER XLIX,

Nimeguen, Saturday, November 21,
1 761, ten o'clock, morning.

J\ S I have been almoft continually in a
boat, or amidft crouds of French officers, I
have not been able to take up my pen till I
am now under the fhelter of the republic of
Holland. The Flemifh merchants and my-
felf hired a bark at Mentz, which belonged
to a Dutchman, who was returning in it to
his native country. They indeed took it
only to Cologne, as they were to flop there,
but I agreed to go with it the whole way.
We always dined and lay in fome village,
but went on only as fail as the current of the
river carried us, which was not very (low,
for the Rhine is rapid. We paffed through
a mod beautiful county as hills rofe gently
on each fide the river cloathed with the Rhe-

nifh

524 LETTERS FROM

nifh grape. Tho' we had hired the boat to
ourfelves, we had numbers- of French offi-
cers and foldiers, who entered it at every
town, without, T believe, paying any thing
to the matter. All the ordinaries too were
crowded with them, but I received no fort
of infult from any perfon, tho', I believe, in
molt, places they did not know me for an
Englishman, as I talked Italian with my
fervant. Their troops are going into winter
quarters, tho* there are frill fome out in the
field againfr. the Hanoverians and us. The
foldiers are fhabbiiy drefled, but fome of the
officers extremely fmart and gay. They
rattle away at the ordinaries, and feem to
think themfelves very ill ufed in being dri-
ven out of Hanover. One young officer, juft,
come from the camp, was accufed of being
afraid of breaking his neck at every little
precipice his horfe came to, and it was won-
dered how a perfon, who had often charged
the enemy with the greateft. fury, could be
fo puiillanimous in a common journey. The

young

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. $*$

young Frenchman replied in his native
ftyle, that glory was his reward if he fell in
battle, but that no honor was to be obtained
from breaking his neck upon the road. Indeed
the word glory was common in all their .
mouths, tho' at this time retreating before
the united forces. They had three pretty
bridges of boats acrofs the Rhine, and all
their magazines were on the French ride of it,
that if pulhed they might eafily put them-
felves in fecurity. Two boats took out of
the middle of them to let us pafs, but the
(entries made us wait fome time before they
would let us through. Thefe bridges were
formed in a bend againft the nream, which
confequently could not drive them down
without breaking in the lighters, which for
greater flrength were ftrongly anchored up
the current. A few planks and gravel laid
over them, with a rail on each fide, made a
good paflage for horfe or foot. At Wefel,
where there was one of them, I had like to
have got into a fcrape by carrying one of the
I Dutch

526 LETTERS FROM

Dutch chauf-pieds lighted upon it. It was
dark, and Wefel being the laft French gar-
rifon, our company was reduced to myfelf,
my fervant and the boatman. As it was
very cold, I had put fome embers from the
inn fire into my warming machine, and was
bearing it over the bridge to defcend into my
boat, which was at the foot of it, when the
fentry placed at the entrance challenged me,
and aiked me what I did with fire upon
the bridge ? As I could not poflibly know
the watch-word, he advanced towards me
and put me under arreft, and calling for
afliftance, carried me before the command-
ing officer upon guard. I had no fooner told
him I was an Englishman, than he mewed
me much civility, and faid he believed we
hated the Hanoverians juff, as much as they
did. It was not my part to contradict the
commanding officer of the bridge at Wefel,
efpecially as he was giving orders for my
difmiffion, tho' he defired me not to carry
fire upon the bridge, as it was flriclly pro-
hibited

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 527

hibited, upon account of the enemy having
attempted more than once by traitors to fet
fire to thofe they had formed. They had
gone even farther, and fent emifTaries to fire
the magazines on the French fide of the
Rhine. This caufed an odd regulation to be
made, that we who went in boats might land
on the left hand fide of the river, but if we
touched the right-hand bank, our boat, goods
and all were to be confifcated. For this pur-
pofe various patroles were ftationed along the
fides of the Rhine, to put thefe orders into
execution, and even fire upon the perfons
who fhould prove refractory to the French
commands. This and various other defpotic
regulations offended my Dutch boat-man fo
much, that as foon as we were got into Hol-
land, he began crying out liberty with the
greateff. energy, but unluckily became, from
the mofl civil perfon that could poffibly be,
the greateft brute and bear I ever faw. How-
ever he conducted me fafely to this place,

where

5iS LETTERS FROM

where I fhall only remain till tomorrow, and
fet off in the public boat for Rotterdam.

Rotterdam, 8 o'clock at night,
Wednefday, Nov. 25, I76I.

THE ufual watery conveyances of Hol-
land brought me from Nimeguen to this
place. The whole country is interfered
with an infinity of canals, which refcues
their grounds from becoming a marfli, and
affords an eafy method of paffing from one
town to another. An impudent Dutchman,
who was to carry me in his boat on board
the public barge, flopped me in the middle
between the more and the veffel, and declared
he would not go on without I gave him an
enormous price. As they were juft going
away I confented to any tiling, and when I
got on board enquired of fome genteel look-
ing peoplej what I ought to pay ; but they
were fo far from taking my part, that they
turned their Belgic rumps towards me and

left

ITALY, GERMANY, &c. 529

left me to fatisfy the fellow as I could. You
may imagine we had not any particular inti-
macy during the voyage, if I may call the
gliding through drained fens by that name.
At length we arrived at this town, which I
think is as beautiful as any thing can be ima-
gined. At Venice water is the only object
you fee in the ftreets, and here there are ca-
nals run through every one, but on each fide
there is a very good paved way for coaches,
and the borders of the water are planted with
lime trees. The bridges too, which are very
numerous and all painted white, give a neat
look to the town, and open in the middle to
let the mails of the veflels "pafs through in a
very ingenious manner. Indeed in almoil all
the cities of Holland the three moft contrary
things in nature are blended together, houfes,
trees, and (hipping, which added to the great
neatnefs, which pervades the whole, aftonimes
the eye of a ftranger unufed to behold mails
peeping up amidil trees. I have now told
you the beft of this place, for many Dutch-
Vol. III. L 1 men

5j6 LETTERS FROM

men have not unaptly been compared to
brooms, which keep every thing clean but
their own perfons ; and a gentleman upon
being (hewn a houfe is faid to have (pit in the
mailer's face, as being the only dirty place
to expectorate in. Thefe charms however,
not being fufficient to keep me from you, I
fhail fet off for Helvoet Sluys the day after
tomorrow, and as I mall be with you as foon
as I can fend another paper, I here clofe my
correfpondence, which I have continued, ac-
cording to promife, I may fay, without in-
terruption from the time of my leaving you
to go Lifbon.

FINIS.

RATA.

V0 1. III.

Page 51, Line 3* for Jlream, x.Jleam.
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155. Date, for May 3, r. May 2.

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• " 294* 20« f°r countryman, r. countrymen.

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