Lewis and Clarke's journal to the Rocky Mountains in the years 1804,-5,-6; as related by Patrick Gass, one of the officers in the expedition

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1

LEWIS AND CLARKE'S

TO THE

ROCKY MOUNTAINS

In tl)e gears 1804,-5,-6;

AS RELATED BY

PATRXCK GASS,

ONE OF THE OFFICERS IN THE EXPEDITION.

New Edition with Numerous Engravings.

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Entered according to act of Congress by
In the year 184:6, in the District Court of Ohio

THE NEW YORK

PUBLIC LIBRARY

5 6 0 8 5 0

A8T0R, LENOX AND
TILOEN FOwNDATjeWS* ,

R- — t91£ IL

P E ® J2l CI « .

i

OF the various publications which unite amusement and infor-
mation, few can be justly held in higher estimation than the
Journals and Narratives of Travelers and Voyagers; and in our
highly favored country, the diffusion of general knowledge, the
enterprizing spirit of the people, their commercial pursuits and
habits of emigration, render such works particularly valuable and
interesting; while the vigorous and unrestrained mind of the free
American, by amplifying and embellishing the scenes presented
to its view, enjoys the choicest luxuries of the entertainment they
are calculated to afford. If it is conceded that discoveries made in
North America are more important to the people of the United
States than those made elsewhere, it will not be difficult to shew
that none could have been made of so much importance to them
in any part of the world as in the large tracts of country through
which the late expedition, under the command of Captain Lewis
and Captain Clarke, passed. For, if we take a view of the different

PREFACE. V

discoveries and Bettlements previously made, we will find that
those tracts through which the Missouri and Columbia rivers and
their branches flow, commonly called unknown regions, were tlie
only parts remaining unexplored, which could be considered valu-
able.

The first discovery of the Western World by Europeans of
which we have any authentic accounts, being near the southern
extremity of North America, drew, as might be expected, their
attention to that quarter; and the range which this grand discov-
ery excited for other enterprizes of the same nature, the avidity
with which avarice was stimulated to seize the precious metals,
known to exist in those parts, the means held out for gratifying
ambition, and the prospects of a lucrative commerce, with many
other objects and considerations tended largely to extend them,
while the diminution of the Northern Continent to a narrow
isthmus, and its large gulfs, bays, and rivers, furnished and
facilitated the means of exploring it. The spirit of enterprize,
however, was not confined to the southern extremity; but extend-
ing itself to the climates congenial with tliose which it had left,
and connecting with its researches the planting of colonies, im-
portant discoveries were made along the Atlantic coasts. In the
mean time the project of discovering a north west passage to the
East Indies led the boldest naval commanders of Europe through
the inland seas, bays, and straits of the north; and at length pro-
duced surveys of the shores of the Pacific. To these discoveries,
and those occasionally made during the settlement of the country
within the limits of the United States and in Canada, the Hudson's
Bay Company, though not famed for enterprize, added something
to the stock of general information, and by their establishments
aided others in their enterprizes. Mr. Hearne, under the direction
of this company, in an expedition which lasted from the 7th of
December 1770 to the 30th of June 1772, proceeded from Prince
of Wales' Fort, on the Churchhill River in latitude 58° 47im.
north, and longitude 94*^ 7im. west of Greenwich, or 19"^ west
of Philadelphia, to the mouth of the Coppermine River, which,
according to some accounts, is in latitude 72*^ north, and longitude
119° west from Greenwich, or 44° west of Philadelphia: but is
laid down by others to be in latitude about 69° north, and longi-
tude 112° west from Greenwich or 37° west from Philadelphisu

vi PREFACE.

Whatever the confined views and contracted policy of the Hudson's
Bay Company may, however, have omitted in the way of discovery,
the enterprize and perseverance of the Canadian traders, some-
time since united under the name of the North West Company,
have amply supplied. Prior to the year 1789, they had extended
their discoveries and establishments along the numerous lakes and
rivers situated north of that high tract of country which divides
the Missouri waters from those which run towards the north and
east, to within a short distance of the Rocky Mountains. In the
summer of this year Mr. M'Kenzie made a voyage from Fort
Chepew ;> m on the Lake of the Hills in latitude 58° 40m. north,
and lon;/itude 1 10° 30m. west from Greenwich or 35° 22m. west
from Philadelphia, by the way of the Slave River, Slave Lake, and
a river by which this lake discharges its waters (since called
M'Kenzie's River) to the mouth of that river where it falls into the
North Sea, in latitude 69" l4m. north and longitude 135° west
from GreeuAvich, or 59° 52m. west from Philadelphia. He again
in the year 1783 penetrated from an establishment on the Peace
River in latitude 56° 9m. north, and longitude 117° 35m. west
from Greenwich, or 41° 27m. west from Philadelpdia, to the Pacif-
ic ocean in latitude 52° 24m. north, and longitude 128° 2m. west
from Greenwich, or 52° 54m. west from Philadelphia.

By the discoveries alluded to, and those occasionally made
during the rapid settlement of the country and the progress of
enterprize, the principal divisions of this Northern Continent has
been explored and become known. The line separating these from
the parts which remained unexplored and unknown, may be con-
sidered as commencing at the Pacific Ocean in latitude about 38''
north, and running along the high-lands and mountains between
the waters which fall into the gulfs of California and Mexico and
those which fall into the Missouri River, and continuing in that
direction to the Mississippi; thence up the River to the source of
its highest northwestern branch; thence along the high tract of
country which divides the waters of the Missouri from those which
fall into Hudson's Bay and the North Sea; from whence it will
continue across the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean in lati-
tude about 52° north. To the south of this general division line,
the known countries will be Old and New Mexico and a part of
Louisiana, to the southeast. West and East Florida; to the east,

PREFACE. TU

the United States; to the northeast, Canada, the Labrador country,
part of New South Wales and of oUier countries round Hudson's
Bay: and to the north, part of New South Wales, New North
Wales, the Athabasca and other countries containing the establish-
ments of the Hudson's Bay and North West Companies, and those
explored by Hearne and M'Kenzie: leaving unknown and unex-
plored (except so far as the surveys made by navigators of the coast
of the Pacific, and the imperfect accounts of traders who have
ascended the Missouri have furnished information) all that large
intermediate tract, containing in breadth about 1800 miles, and
by the way of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers nearly twice that
distance. This tract from its situation may be supposed to contain
the chief part of those lands in the great western division of the
continent of North America fit for tillage; and this circumstance
will, therefore, in a special manner claim the attention of an agri-
cultural people, render more interesting a description of them,
and attach additional value to the history of the country. It will
not be forgotten that an immense sum of treasure has been expend-
ed in the purchase of this country, and that it is now considered
as belonging to the United States. Here, at no distant period, settle-
ments may be formed; and in a much shorter term than has elapsed
since the first were made in America, from which hath arisen a
great, powerful, and independent nation, the posterity of the pres-
ent inhabitants of the Union may unfurl the standard of independ-
ence on the plains of the Missouri and Columbia.

With respect to tlie accuracy of the relations given in the follow-
ing pages, it may be necessary to inform those readers not acquaint-
ed with the fact, that the principal object in sending out the
expedition was to gain some correct account of the country; and
that this might be done more effectually, and the information col-
lected, preserved with more certainty, it was enjoined upon the
several persons belonging to the corps, who were considered capable,
to keep journals, and every necessary information and assistance
given them for that purpose. These journals were also from time to
time compared, corrected, and any blanks, which had been left,
filled up, and unavoidable omissions supplied. By thus multiply-
ing the journals revising and correcting them, the chances of
securing to th© country a true account of the progress of the
discoveries which should be made, especially should the party be

viii P R E F A E C .

attacked and defeated by the savages, or meet with any other disas-
ters in their hazardous enterprize, were also multiphed.

The following is an extract of a certificate delivered by Captain
Lewis to Mr. Gass, dated St. Louis, Oct. 10, 1806.

♦* As a tribute justly due to the merits of the said Patrick Gass,
•'I with cheerfulness declare, that the ample support, which he
"gave me under every difficulty, the manly firmness which he
"evinced on every necessary occeision, and the fortitude with
" which he bore the fatigues and painful sufferings incident to that
"long voyage, entitles him to my highest confidence and sincere
" thanks, while it eminently recommends him to the consideration
"and respect of his fellow citizens."

In determining the form in which the work should appear, the
publisher had some difficulty. Two plans presented themselves.
The one was to preserve the form of a daily journal (in which the
original had been kept) and give a plain description of the coun-
try and a simple relation of occurrences equally intelligible to all
readers; leaving to every person an opportunity of embellishing
the scenes presented to him in his own way. The other plan was
to more fully digest the subject, make the narrative more general*
and, assuming less of the journal form and style, describe and clothe
the principal parts of it as his fancy might suggest. However far
the latter might have been proper had a foreign country been the
subject, and the principal object of the publication, mere amuse-
ment, many objections occurred to it in the present case, and
rendered the former the most eligible, especially as by it the climate
and face of the country will be more satisfactorily described. And
Mr. Gass having declared that the beauties and deformities of its
grandest scenes were equally beyond the power of description, no
attempts have been made either by him or the publisher to give
adequate representations of them.

The publisher hopes that the curiosity of the reader will be in
some degree gratified; that the information furnished will not be
uninteresting; and that some aid will be furnished those who wish
to acquire a geographical knowledge of their country.
March 26, 1807.

TF

PU3UC L

A8T0R, LENOX /'D
TILDEN FOUNDA-

a7iuit?i

^IIE NjEVV VORK

^STOR, LENOX AND
T1LD£N FOUNDATIONS.

JOURNAL

TO THE

ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

CHAPTER I.

ON Monday, the 14th, of May, 1804, we left our estab-
lishment at the mouth of the River du Bois or Wood
River, a small river which falls into the Mississippi, on
the east side, a mile below the Missouri, and having
crossed the Mississippi, proceeded up the Missouri on
our voyage of discovery, under the command of Capt.
Clark. Captain Lewis was to join us in two or three
days on our passage.

The corps consisted of forty-three men, (including
Captain Lewis and Captain Clark, who were to command
the expedition, ) part of the regular troops of the United
States, and part for this particular enterprize. The
expedition was embarked on board a batteau and two
periogues. The day was showery, and in the evening
we encamped on the north bank six miles up the river.
Here we had leisure to reflect on our situation, and the
nature of our engagements, and, as we had all entered
this service as volunteers, to consider how far we stood
pledged for the success of an expedition which the
government had projected, and which had been under-
taken for the benefit and at the expense of the Union,
of course of much interest and high expectation.

The best authenticated accounts informed us, that we
were to pass through the country possessed by numerous,
powerful and warlike nations of savages, of gigantic
stature, fierce, treacherous, and cruel ; and particularly
hostile to white men. And fame had united with tradi-
tion in opposing mountains to our course, which human
enterprize and exertion would attempt in vain to pass.

/

14 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

\

The determined and resolute character, however, of the
corps, and the confidence which pervaded all ranks
dispelled every emotion of fear and anxiety for the
present; while a sense of duty, and of the honour, which
would attend the completion of the object of the expe-
dition, a wish to gratify the expectations of the govern-
ment and of our fellow citizens, with the feelings which
novelty and discovery invariably inspire, seemed to
insure to us ample support in our future toils, sufferings,
and dangers.

On the 15. We continued our voyage. It rained in
the morning ; but in the afternoon we had clear weather,
and encamped at night on the north side of the river.

Wednesday 16. We had a fine pleasant morning;
embarked early, and at 2 o'clock in the afternoon arrived
at St. Charles, and fired a gun. A number of inhabi-
tants came To see us. This is an old French village, in
the country around which, a number of Americans have
settled.

We remained at St. Charles until the 21st, where
Captain Lewis arrived from St. Louis and joined us.
At 4 o'clock in the afternoon we left this place under a
salute of three cheers from the inhabitants, which we
returned with three more and a discharge of three guns.
This evening was showery, and we again encamped on
the north side of the river.

Tuesday 22. We continued our voyage ; passed Bon-
um Creek on the south side, and having made fifteen
miles, encamped at the Cliffs on the north side of the
river. Here we were visited by some Indians.

Wednesday 23. At 6 o'clock in the morning we pro-
ceeded on our voyage with pleasant weather. Passed
the mouth of the Osage River on the south side, about
a mile and a half below the Tavern Cove — a noted place
among the French traders. One mile above this is the
Tavern Creek. We encamped this evening on the south
side of the river, and had our arms and ammunition
inspected.

Thursday 24. We continued our voyage, and en-
camped at night on the south side. This day our boat
turned in a ripple, and nearly upset.

AS RELATED BY PATERICK GASS. IS

Friday 23. We proceeded tliree miles and passed a
creek on the south side, called Wood River; the banks
of the river arc here high and tlie land rich. Arrived at
St. Johns, a small French village situated on the north
side, and encamped a quarter of a mile above it. This
is the last settlement of white people on the river.

Saturday 26. This morning two of our people set
out by land with a couple of horses. At seven we em-
barked and had ^loud thunder and heavy rain; passed
Otter Creek on the north side, and encamped near its
mouth.

Sunday 27. We passed Ash Creek where there are
high cliffs on the south side, and at five in the afternoon
arrived at the mouth of Gaskenade River. On the south
side one of our party killed a deer. We encamped for
the night on an island opposite the mouth of Gaskenade
River. This is a very handsome place, — a rich soil and
pleasant country.

Monday 28. Our provisions and stores were put out
to air and dry, and several of our men sent out to hunt.
One of them killed a deer. The mouth of the Gasken-
ade River is 157 yards wide.

Tuesday 29. Seven men were sent out to hunt, six
of whom returned. We waited here until 5 o'clock
P. M. for the man who had not come in, and then pro-
ceeded three miles, passing Deer Creek on the south side.
A periogue and eight men had been left for the hunter
who had not returned.

Wednesday 30. After experiencing a very disagreea-
ble night, on account of the rain, we continued our
voyage at seven o'clock A. M. and passed a cove where
there were high cliffs on the north side opposite an
island, called Slombran's Tavern. At twelve we had a
heavy shower of rain, accompanied with hail ; passed a
creek called Rush Creek, on the north side, and four
miles futher. Mud Creek on the same side. Here the
soil is good, with cotton wood, sycamore, oak, hickory,
and white walnut, with some grape vines and an abund-
ance of rushes. We halted and encamped at Grindstone
Creek on the south side of the river.

16 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

Thursday 31. We were obliged to remain at this
encampment all day, on account of a strong wind from
the west. An Indian man and a squaw came down the
river with two canoes, loaded with fur and peltry, and
remained with us all night. Some of our hunters went
out and killed a deer.

Friday, June 1, 1804. Before daylight we embarked
and proceeded on our voyage; passed Big Muddy Cre ik
on the north side, and on the opposite side saw high
banks. Two and a half miles higher up, we passed Bear
Creek, and at four o'clock P. M. arrived at the Osage
River; where we remained during the evening and the
next day. The Osage River is 197 yards wide at its
confluence with the Missouri, which, at this place, is 875
yards broad. The country on the south side is broken,
but rich, and the land on the other of a most excellent
quality. The two men that went by land with the horses
came to us here: they represented the land they had
passed through as the best they had ever seen, and the
timber good, consisting chiefly of oak, ash, hickory and
black walnut. They killed in their way five deer. The
periogue left at the mouth of Gaskenade River, came up
with the man who had been lost. Here our hunters
went out and killed three deer. The Osage nations of
Indians live about two hundred miles up this river.
They are of a large size and well proportioned, and a very
warlike people. Our arms and ammunition were all in-
spected here and found in good order.

Sunday 3. Captain Lewis, with one of the men went
out and killed a deer. At five in the afternoon we em-
barked, and, having proceeded six miles, encamped at the
mouth of Morrow Creek on the south side.

Monday 4. We continued our voyage, and during
the day broke our mast by steering too close to the
shore. In the evening we encamped on the south side,
near lead mines, when our hunters came in with seven
deer.

Tuesday 5. We passed Mine Creek on the south
side, and Little Goodwoman Creek on the north : also
the Creek of the Big Rock. We met two Frenchmen

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 17

in two canoes laden with peltry: passed a high cliff of
rocks on the south side. The land about this place is
good and well timbered.

On the 6. Wc passed Saline Creek on the south side ;
and on the 7ih, the river of the Big Devil on the north;
and Big Goodwoman's Creek on the same side, where we
encamped.

Friday 8. Wc embarked and proceeded five miles,
when wo met four canoes loaded with fur and peltry:
and passed the Mine River on the south side, which is
150 yards wide. The land here is also good and well
limbered.

Saturday 9. We passed the Prairie of Arrows and
Arrow Creek on the south side. This is a beautiful
country and the land excellent. The Missouri is hero
only 300 yards wide, and the current very strong. Three
miles further we passed Blackbird Creek on the north
side, and encamped. This day going round some drift
wood, the stern of the boat became fast, when she
immediately swung round, and was in great danger; but
we got her olf without much injury.

Sunday 10. Wc proceeded five miles, passed Deer-lick
Creek on the north side; and three miles further the
Two Charlottes on the same side. The mouths of
these two rivers are very near each other: the first 70
and the other 100 yards wide. Wc encamped on the
south sido of the river at a prairie, and remained there
the whole of the next day, the wind blowing too violent
for us to proceed.

Tuesday 12. We set out early, and proceeded until
five o'clock in the afternoon, v/hen wc met five periogucs
loaded with fur and peltry from the Sioux nation of
Indians. We remained with the people to whom these
periogues belonged all night; and got from them an old
Frenchman, v/ho could speak the languages of the dif-
ferent nations of Indians up the Missouri, and who
agreed to go with us as an interpreter.

Wednesday 13. We proceeded early on our voyage;
passed a small creek on the north side in a long bend of
the river, and encamped at the mouth of Grand River on

2

18 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

the North side. This is as handsome a place as I ever
saw in an uncultivaU'd slate.

Thursday 14. At five o'clock in the morning we con-
tinued our voyage. The river having risen during the
night was difficult lo ascend. At noon we passed
some Frenchmen from the Poencso or Ponis nation of
Indians, where they spent the last winter. In the eve-
ning we passed Snake Creek on the north side and
encamped on the same.

Friday 15. We renewed our voyage at five in the
morning, and had very rapid water. There is a beau-
tiful Prairie on the south side and the land high. Mul-
berries are in great abundance almost all along the river.
We encamped on the north side, opposite an old Indian
village.

Saturday 16. Three men went out this morning to
look for timber to make oars, but could find none suitable.
On their return we continued our voyage; had cloudy
weather and rapid water all day and encamped on the
north side

Sunday 17. This morning was clear and at five wo
renewed our voyage. Having proceeded about a mile
we halted to get timber for oars; and while we remained
here to make them our hunters came in and brought with
them a handsome horse, which they had found astray.
They also brought a bear, which thoy had killed.

Monday 18. We remained here all day; and our
hunters killed five deer and a bear. On the south side
there is high land and a long prairie; on the north the
land is level and well timbered, with ash, sugar tree, black
walnut, buck-eye, cotton wood and some other timber.

Tuesday 19. We passed Tabo Creek on the south
side, and a small creek on the north; and encamped on
the south side opposite a small lake about two miles
distant.

Wednesday 20. At five in the morning we continued
our voyage, passed Tigc^r Creek, a large creek iliat Hows
in from the north, and encamped on an island. The land
along here is good on both sides of the river.

On the 21. We had rapid water, and for about a

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. t9

mile had to warp up our boat by a rope. A creek called
Du Beau or l)u Bois, falls in on the south side behind an
island. We encamped in the evening on the south side.

Friday 22. It rained hard from four to seven in the
morning, when we continued our voyage. About twelve
one of our men went out and killed a large bear. We
encamped at a handsome prairie on the south side oppo-
site a large creek, called the Fire-prairie, and which is 60
yards wide.

Saturday 23. W^e set out at five in the morning; at
twelve the wind blew so strong down the river that we
were unable to proceed, and we encamped on an island
and inspected the arms and ammunition. Captain Clarke
went out with one of the men and did not return this
evening.

Sunday 24. We had a fme morning, embarked at five
and pursued our voyage : at nine Ca{)tain Clarke came to
us and brought with him two deer and a bear. We passed
a creek on the south side called Depie. At twelve we
stopped to jirk* our meat, and again proceeded at two;
passed a creek on the north side and encamped on the
south bank of the river.

Monday 23. The morning was foggy, and at seven
o'clock we pursued our voyage. The river here is nar-
row with high land on the south side. We passed a creek
on the south side called Labenile, and encamped on an
island.

Tuesday 26. We embarked and set out at five o'clock
In the morning;' passed a creek on the south side, called
Blue-water. This afternoon we had some difficulty in
passing a sand-bar, the tow-rope having broke ; but by the
exertions of those on board, the boat was brought to shore
without injury. We encamped on the south side on a
point at the confluence of the Canzan, or Kanzas River
with the Missouri. It was agreed to remain here during
the 27th and 28th where we pitched our tents and built
bowers in front of them. Canzan or Kanzas, is two hun-
dred and thirty and a quarter yards wide, and navigable

* Jirk is meat cut into small pieces and dried in the sun or by
a fire. The Indians cure and preserve their meat in this way with-
out salt.

20 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

to a great distance. Our hunters killed four deer, and a
young wolf, and caught another alive. In the afternoon
of the 29th wc again proceeded on our voyage, and
encamped on the north side of the river.

Saturday 30. The day was clear and wg continued
our voyage; found high land on both sides of the river;
and passed a large creek on the north side, called Piatt,
fifty yards wide. We broke our mast and encamped on
the south side, where there were the most signs of game
I ever saw.

Sunday July 1, 1804. We set out at five in the morn-
ing, and having advanced twelve miles, encamped on an
island opposite a prairie on the south side of the river.

Monday 2. At sunrise we continued our voyage, and
met a quantity of drift-wood which was carried down the
stream ; this morning we passed a creek on the south
side and encamped on the north opposite an old French
village and fort, but all vacant.

Tuesday 3. We proceeded again at five, and continu-
ed our voyage until twelve, when we stoped at an old
trading place on the south side of the river. There we
found a grey horse ; but saw no appearance of any persons
having lately encamped at that place.

Wednesday 4. We lired a swivel at sunrise in honor
of the day, and continued our voyage; passed a creek on
the north side, called Pond Creek, and at one o'clock stopt
to dine. One of our people got snake bitten, but not
dangerously. After dinner we renewed our voyage,
passed a creek on the north side, which we called Inde-
pendence, encamped on the north side at an old Indian
village situated in a handsome prairie, and saluted the
departing day with another gun.

Thursday 5. We proceeded on our voyage at five in
the morning; and found the land high on the south side.
We went through a large bend full of sand bars where
we had some difficulty in passing; and encamped on the
south side at high prairie land.

Friday 6. We set out early this morning; had a fme
day, and made a good days voyage: and encamped on
the south side, at Whippowil Creek.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 21

Saturday 7. At an early hour we proceeded on our
voyage, passed a high handsome prairie on the north side,
and killed a wolf and a large wood rat on the bank.
The principle difference between it and the common
rat is, its having hair on its tail.

Sunday 8. We were under way this morning before
daylight. The river here is crooked and narrow. At
one we came to a large island, with only a small stream
on the north side which we went up. A large creek
called Nadowa flows in from the north; and on this side
we encamped.

Monday 9. Early this morning we continued our
voyage. It rained hard till twelve o'clock. We passed
a creek on the south side, called W^olf Creek. The man
that was snake bitten is become well. We encamped on
the south side.

Tuesday 10. Wc set out early this morning and had
a fair day, and fair wind. There is a handsome prairie
on the south side opposite an island. We encamped on
the north side.

W^ednesday 1 1 . W^e also embarked early this morn-
ing; passed a creek on the north side, called Tarico, and
halted at an island, opposite a creek called Moha on the
south side of the river. Seven hunters went out to day
and two of them brought in five deer. Here we found
another horse on the bank of the river, supposed to have
been left by a hunting party last winter. Two of
our men, who had gone to hunt on the south side of the
river, did not return at night.

Thursday 12. We remained here this day, that the
men, who were much fatigued, might take some rest.
The hunters who had remained on the south side of the
river all night, came in, but had killed nothing. Two
more went to hunt on the north side and killed two deer.

Friday 13. W^e were early under way this morning
with a fair wind. The day was fine. We passed a creek
on the north side, and having made twenty and a half
miles, encamped on a large sand bar.

Saturday 14. At day break it began to rain and con-
tinued until seven when it abated, and we set forward :

22 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

but in a short time a gust of wind and rain came on so
violent, that all hands had to leap into the water to save
the boat. Fortunately this storm did not last long, and
we went on to a convenient place and landed. Here we
continued two hours and then proceeded. We saw some
elk, but could not kill any of them ; passed a river on the
north side, called Wash-ba-to-nan, and encamped on the
south side.

Sunday 15. We got under way at six o'clock; passed
a creek on the south side; and gathered some ripe grapes.
There is high land and prairies on this side. Caj)tain
Clarke and two men went by land. At the head of an
island, called Elk island, we found some pummice stono
among the drift wood. We passed a creek on the south
side, called Na-ma-ha, and encamped on the same.

Monday 16. Early in the morning we proceeded on
our voyage opposit3 a prairie ; had a fine day and fair
wind, and passed a long island, above which is a place
where the bank has slipped into the river. There are
high rocky cliffs on the south side, and hills and prairies
on the north : on which side we encamped. The river
here is two miles wide with rapid water. Two of our
hunters met us here with two deer.

Tuesday 17. We remained here all day: and one of
our hunters killed three deer.

Wednesday 18. Early this morning we prosecuted our
voyage with a fair wind and pleasant weather. This is
the most open country 1 ever beheld, almost one
continued prairie. Two of our hunters went by land
with the horses as usual. On the south side we passed
high handsome banks or bluffs of red and blue strata;
found some iron ore here, and encamped on the south
side, where one of our hunters brought us two deer.

Thursday 19. At sun rise we renewed our voyage, and
passed a number of sand bars, and high land on the south
side. Where we halted for dinner, we found a great
quantity of cherries, called by some, choak cherries. We
encamped for the night on an island of Willows.

Friday 20. We embarked early; passed high yellow
banks on the south side and a creek, called the Water-

•

o

Si

►a
«^*

09

2

24 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

whicli-cries, or the weeping stream, opposite a willow
island, and encamped on a prairie on the south side.

Saturday 21. We set out early. It rained this morn-
ing but we had a fine breeze of wind. There arc a great
many willow islands and sand-bars in this part of" the
river. At nine the wind fell, and at one we came to the
great river Platte, or shallow river, which comes in on
the south side, and at the mouth is three quarters of a
mile broad. The land is flat about the confluence. Up
this river live three nations of Indians, the Otos, Panis
and Loos, or Wolf Indians. On the south side there is
also a creek, called Butterfly Creek.

Sunday 22. We left the river Platte and proceeded
early on our voyage, with fair weather. There is high
prairie land on the south side, with some timber on the
northern parts of the hills. We came nine miles from
the mouth of Platte River, and landed on the willow bank.
The hunters killed five deer and caught two beaver.

Monday 23. Six men were sent out to make oars;
and two to a nation of Indians up the Platte Eiver, to
inform them of the change of government in this coun-
try, and that we were here ready to treat with them. Wo
hoisted a flag, and sent them another.

Our people were all busily engaged in hunting, making
oars, dressing skins, and airing our stores, provisions
and baggage. We killed two deer and caught two beaver.
Beaver appear plenty in this part of the country.

We continued here until the 27. On the 24th there
were some showers; but during the remainder of the time
there was clear weather. Our people were generally
employed as before. The hunters killed five more deer;
and the two men returned from the Indian village, with-
out finding any of the natives.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 25

CHAPTER II.

Friday 27. This forenoon wc were engaged in load-
ing the "boats and preparing to start. At twelve we pro-
ceeded with a fair wind, and pleasant weather; went
twelve miles, and encamped on a handsome prairie on the
south side.

Saturday 28. We set out early; had a cloudy morning;
passed some beautiful hills and prairies, and a creek
called Round-Knob Creek, on the north side; and high
bluffs on the south. We encamped on the north side.
Here two of our hunters came to^is, accompanied by
one of the Oto Indians.

Sunday 29. We embarked early, and continued our
vovasre. One of our Frenchmen went with the Indian
to bring more of them to meet us at some convenient
landing place. At twelve one of our hunters came in
with a deer and some elk meat. We renewed our voy-
age at three, passed a bank, where there was a quantity
of fallen timber, and encamped on the north side.

Monday 30. Our grey horse died last night. We set
out early, and the hunters met us with a deer. At nine
we came to some timber land at the foot of a high bluff
and encamped there in order to wait for the Indians. At
the top of the bluff is a large handsome prairie, and a
large pond, or small lake about two miles from camp on
the south side of the river. Two of our hunters went
out and killed an animal, called a prarow, about the size
of a ground hog and nearly of the same colour. It has
a head similar to that of a dog, short legs and largo
claws on its fore feet ; some of the claws are an inch
and a half long.* Our hunters again went out, but did not
return this day.

Tuesday 31. One of our men went to visit some
traps he had set, and in one found a young beaver, but
little hurt and brought it in alive. In a short time

*See Plate.

26 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

he went out an^ain and killed a large buck. Two other
hunters came in about twelve, who had killed two deer;
but lost the horses. One of them with two other per-
sons were sent out to hunt them, who returned at dark
without finding them ; and supposed they had been stolen
by the Indians.

Wednesday August 1. 1804. Three of our men again
went out to hunt the horses, but returned without them.
They brought a deer, and two of our other hunters killed
two more.

Thursday 2. Some hunters went out this morning:
and two of them returned with the horses and an elk they
had killed. The others brought in two large bucks and
a fawn. The Indians we expected came at dark; but
our Frenchman was not with them. We supposed he
had been lost. This place wc named Council-Bluff,
and by observation found to be in latitude 41° 17' north.

Friday 3. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke held
a council with the Indians, who appeared well pleased
with the change of government, and what had been done
for them. Six of them were made chiefs, three Oto8
and three Missouris.

We renewed our voyage dx three o'clock ; went six
miles and encamped on the south side; where we had a
storm of wind and rain, which lasted two hours.

Saturday 4. We were early under way this morning,
and had a fair day. We passed a creek on the south
side, which came out of ponds. One of our men went
out this morning and did not return : another came to us
and brought a deer. We encamped on the south side.

Sunday 5. Wc set out early, but a storm of rain and
wind obliged us to stop two hours. It then cleared and
we continued our voyage; passed prairies on both sides,
and cncamj)cd on the north side. The river here is very
crooked and winding. To arrive at a point only three
hundred and seventy yards from this place, the passage
by water is twelve miles.

Monday G. We proceeded at an early hour this
morning, after a stormy night of wind and rain; passed
a creek on the north side, at the back of an island, called
Soldiers Creek; and encamped on the south side.

28 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

Tuesday 7. We set out early this morning and con-
tinued our voyage till twelve, when four of our people were
dispatched to the Oto nation of Indians after the man
who had not returned on the 4th, with orders to take
him dead or alive, if they could see him. There is no
limhcr in this country, except some cotton wood and
willows in the bends of the river. All the high land is
a continued prairie. Wc encamped on the north side.
The musketoes here arc very numerous and trouble-
some.

Wednesday 8. Wc embarked early, passed a small
river on the north side, called Little Sioux. Captain
Clarke and one of the men went out to hunt and killed
an elk. One of the hunters killed a pelican on a sand
bar, and Captain Lewis killed another very large. We
encamped on the north bank. In the bag under the
bill and neck of the pelican, which Captain Lewis killed,
we put five gallons of water.

Thursday 9. The fog was so thick this morning,
that we could not proceed before seven, when we went
on under a gentle breeze, and having advanced eleven
miles, came to a place where the river by cutting through
a narrow neck of land, reduced the distance fifteen miles.
Captain Clarke and one of the men went out to hunt, and
killed a small turkey. We encamped on the south side,
where we found the musketoes very troublesome.

Friday 10. We embarked early, passed high yellow
banks on the south side, and encamped on the north.

Saturday 11. A storm came on at three o'clock this
morning and continued till nine; notwithstanding which,
we kept under way till ten, when we came to a high
bluff, where an Indian Chief had been buried, and placed
a flag upon a pole, which had been set up at his grave.
His name was Blackbird, king of the Mahas; an absolute
monarch while living, and the Indians suppose can exer-
cise the power of one though dead. We encamped in
latitude 42° 1 ' 3s. three, as ascertained by observation.

Sunday 12. We embarked and got under way before
daylight. The musketoes last night were worse than
I ever experienced. We went around a bend, of

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 29

eighteen miles, the neck of which was only nine hundred
and seventy Ibur yards across; passed high bUiffs of
yellow clay on the south side of the river and low land
on the north; and encamped on a sand Island.

Monday 13. We proceeded this morning with a fair
wind ; and at two landed on a sandy beach, near the Maha
village, on the south side of the river. A sergeant and
one man were sent to the village, who did not return this
day.

Tuesday 14. The sergeant and man returned from
the village ; but they had found no Indians there. Some
of our hunters went out but killed nothing. Game
appears scarce here. While at this place wc provided
ourselves with a new mast.

Wednesday 15. Captain Clarke and ten of the party
went to the Maha Creek to fish, and caught three hundred
and eighty seven fish of different kinds. We discovered
smoke on the opposite side of the river, and four men
crossed to see if any of the Mahas or Sioux Indians wero
there ; but could not discover any. There had been fire
there some days, and the wind lately blowing hard
had caused the fire to spread and smoke to rise. We
continued at this place until the 20ih. Captain Lewis
went with a party of twelve men to fish and took seven
hundred and nine fish, one hundred and sixty seven of
which were large pike. The fish here are generally pike, cat,
sun, perch and other common fish. What we caught
were taken with trails or bush nets. On the 18th, the
party who had been sent in pursuit of the man who had
been absent since the 4th, returned with him, and eight
Indians and a Frenchman ; but left our Frenchman be-
hind who had gone out to hunt the horses. On the 19th,
a council was held with these Indians, who appeared
to wish to make peace with all nations. This day ser-
geant Floyd became very sick and remained so all night.
He was seized with a complaint somewhat like a violent
colic.

Monday 20. Sergeant Floyd continued very ill.
We embarked early, and proceeded, having a fair wind
and fine weather, till two o'clock, when we landed for

30 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

dinner. Here sergeant Floyd died, notwithstanding
every possible effort was made by the commanding offi-
cers, and other persons, to save his life. We went on
about a mile to high prairie hills on the north side of
the river, and there interred his remains in the most
decent manner our circumstances would admit; we then
proceeded a mile further to a small river on the same
side and encamped. Our commanding officers gave it
the name of Floyd's River; to perpetuate the memory of
the first man who had fallen in this important expedition.

Tuesday 21. AVe set out early; passed handsome pale
coloured bluffs, Willow Creek and the Sioux River on the
north side : and having come upwards of twenty miles,
encamped on the south side.

Wednesday 22. We i)roceeded early upon our voyage ;
passed bluffs on the soutli side, where there is copperas,
allum and ore of some kind; also passed a creek. The
high land on the south side for nine or ten miles runs
close to the river, where there are cedar bluffs of various
colours. W^e encamped on the north side.

Thursday 23. We proceeded early this morning with
a fair wind. The river here becomes more straicrht than
we had found it for a great distance below. Captain
Clarke and one of the men killed a deer and a buffalo, and
some of the men were sent to dress and bring the buffalo
to the boat. We stoped at a prairie on the north side,
the largest and handsomest, which I had seen. Captain
Clarke called it Buffalo Prairie. The men having return-
ed, we again went on ; but the wind changed and we
were obliged to halt for the present. While we were
detained here, we salted two barrels of buffalo meat. At
five in the evening we proceeded some distance and
encamped on the south side.

Friday 24. This morning was'cloudy with some rain.
Captain Clarke went by land. We passed cedar bluffs
on the north side, a part of which were burning; and thero
are here to be found mineral substances of various kinds.
There is also a quantity of small red berries, the Indian
name for whiclvin English means rabbit berries. They
are handsome small berries and grow upon bushes about

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 31

ten feet high. Captain Clarke came to us and had killed
two elk and a fawn, we passed a creek called While-stone
Creek ; landed and remained here all night to jirk our
meat.

Saturday 25. Two of our men last night caught nine
catfish, that would together weigh three hundred pounds.
The larnje catfish are caught in the Missouri with hook
and line. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke went to see
a hill on the north side of the river where the natives will
not, or pretend that they will not venture to go, and say
that a small people live there, whom they are afraid of.
At eleven o'clock, the gentlemen not having returned,
we set sail with a gentle breeze from the S. E. passed
black bluffs on the south side, and continued on nine
miles and encamped. Two of our hunters came in
who had killed a large elk. Captains Lewis and Clarke
did not return this evening.

Sunrlay 26. Some of the men went out to dress and
bring in the elk. About ten o'clock Captain Lewis and
Captain Clarke with a party accompanying them came to
camp; but had not been able to discover any of those
small people. The hill is in a handsome prairie: and the
party saw a great many buffalo near it. About eleven
we renewed our voyage and passed some timber land on
the south side ; and black and white bluffs on the same
side, we encamped on the north side opposite a creek
called Pettit-Ark, or Little-bow.

Monday 27. Got under way at sunrise, and passed
white bluffs on the south side. At two we stopped for
dinner, and an Indian of the Mahas nation, who lives
with the Sioux came to us here, at the mouth of the
Sacque River; and while we remained here two more
came in. A Sergeant with our old Frenchman and
another man went with two of the Indians to their camps,
and the other went with us in the boat. We encamped
on a sand beach on the north side.

Tuesday 28. We set forward early. The day was
pleasant, and a fair wind from S. E. At eight we halted
for breakfast, when our young Indian left us to go to his
camp at a handsome prairie, gently rising from the river

33 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

on the north sido; a small distance above which aro
beautiful groves of Cotton wood on both sides of the river.
About twelve one of the j)oriogues run against a snag
which broke a hole in it. We then crossed lo the south
side 10 mend the periogue, and to wait to receive the
Indians we expected ; and landed a little below some high
bluffs. Our camp is in a wide bottom, in which arc largo
elm and oak trees.

Wednesday 29. At eight o'clock last night a storm of
wind and rain came on from the north west, and the rain
continued the greater part of the night. The morning
was cloudy with some thunder. We are generally well
supplied with Catfish, the best I have ever seen. Some
large ones were taken last night. In the afternoon, the
men who had gone to the Indian camp returned, and
brought with them sixty Indians of the Sioux nation.
They encamped for the evening upon the opposite shore,
and some corn and tobacco were sent over to them. The
sergeant who had gone to their camp informed me that
their lodges, forty in number, are about nine miles from
the Missouri on the Sacque River. They are made of
dressed buffalo and elk skins, painted red and white, and
are very handsome. He said the women are homely
and mostly old; but the young men likely and active.
They killed a dog as a token of friendship. One of our
men killed a deer.

Thursday 30. A foggy morning, and heavy dew.
At nine o'clock the Indians came *over the river. Four
of them, who were musicians, went backwards and for-
wards, through and round our camp, singing and making
a noise. After that ceremony was over they all sat in
council. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke made five of
them chiefs, and gave them some small presents. At
dark Captain Lewis gave them a grained deer skin to
stretch over a half keg for a drum. When that was
ready they all assembled round some fires made for the
purpose : two of them beat on the drum, and some of the
rest had little bags of undressed skins dried, with beads
or small pebbles in them, with which they made a noise.
These arc their instruments of music. Ten or twelve

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 33

acted as musicians, while twenty or thirty young men
and boys engaged in the dance; which was continued
during the night. No Squaws made their appearance
among this party.

Friday 31. A clear morning. The Indians remained
with us all day, and got our old Frenchman to stay and
go with their chief to the city of Washington. Some of
them had round their necks, strings of the white bear's
claws, some of the claws three inches long.

CHAPTER III.

Saturday Sept. 1, 1804. We renewed our voyage
early; passed high bluffs on the south side, and high
prairie land on the north ; on this side the hills come close
to the river; and are so near on both sides, as not to be
more than two miles from each other. Durincf last night
we had hard wind and some rain, which continues to
fall occasionally durino- the dav. About one o'clock we
passed a rich prairie on the south side, and encamped on
the north side, at the lower end of an island.

Sunday 2. At one o'clock last night we had hard
thunder, lightning and rain, which continued about two
hours. We set out early in the morning, along the north
side of the island: there is handsome prairie land on the
south. Three of our men went on the island to hunt.
When we landed for breakfast, we heard several guns
fired on the island, and saw six elk swimming across the
river about a mile above where we had halted. Two of
our men went up and killed one of them ; those on the
island killed three. About twelve, the wind blew so hard
down the river, that we could not proceed, and we land-
ed on the north side, where there is an extensive prairie.
It was cloudy and rained till four, when it cleared up.
We remained here for the night and dried our meat.
On the bank opposite our camp is an ancient fortification

3

31 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

or breastwork similar to those wliich have been occasion-
ally discovered on the western waters. The two ends
run at right angles to the river, and the outside, which is
twenty-five hundred yards in length, parallel to it: there
is no breastwork thrown up next to the river, the bank
as is supposed, serving as a sufficient defence on that
side.*

Monday 3. We set out early, and had a clear day;
passed yellow bluffs on the north side, and a small cr;jtk,
called Plum Creek. Here the river turns at right angles
to the left, till it reaches the hills on the south side,
then winds gradually to the right. There is no timber
in this part of the country; but continued prairie on boih
sides of the river. A person by going on one of the hills
may have a view as far as the eye can reach without any
obstruction or intervening object; and enjoy the most
delightful prospects. During this day's voyage we found
the hills on the opposite sides of the river generally not
more than two miles apart, and the river meandering
through them in various directions. We encamped on
the south side.

Tuesday 4. We proceeded on our voyage, passed a
creek on the south side about thirty yards wide, called
Paint Creek; and high yellow bluifl^ on the same side.

* The description of this Breastwork corresponds exactly with
the accounts given of numerous ancient fortilications discovered
in the Western Country, which are known and represented to
be generally of an oblong form, situated on strong and well chosen
ground, an.'i contiguous to water. These works from the examina-
tions which have been made, are supposed to have been erected
more than one thousand years ago; or seven hundred before the
discovery of America by Columbus. They appear to have existed
about the same period, throughout all, or the greater part of that
vast tract of Country bounded by the Alleghany Mountains on
the East, and the Rocky Mountains on the West, and including
the most favonrable latitudes of North America. Terhaps some
have been found East of the Alleghany Mountains. Have
numerous ancient nations, more civilized and disposed to labor
than any of the modern Indian tribes, inhabited this country?
And have these fortiiications been their liumble substitutes for
the walled and fortified cities of the old world in remote ages?
Or, has this been the Roman Empire of the New World? yVnd
has it b.'en destroyed by other hordes of barbarians, as tierce and
cruel as those who destroyed that of the old.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 35

About a mile and a half further we passed another creek
on the same side 50 yards wide called White-paint Creek;
and yellow bluffs on the north side. About four miles
higher up, we passed a river, on the south side, 152 yards
wide, called Rapidwater River : Up this river the Poncas
nation of Indians lived not long since. We encamped
on the south side among some cedar trees.

Wednesday 5. We set sail early this morning with
a fair wind, and had a clear day. We passed a long
island covered with timber, and three men went to hunt
on it. On the north side are yellow bluffs, out of which
issue several beautiful springs. Opposite the head of the
island, on the south side, flows in a river, called Pania
River; and about three miles higher up, on the north side,
a creek, called Goat Creek. On the hills above this
creek, we saw some goats or antelopes, which the French
call cabres. About four we encamped on an island, where
we made and put in a new mast. The three men, who
went to hunt on long island killed a deer and an elk ; and
two more went out from camp and killed another deer
and an elk, both young.

Thursday 6. We set out early and had a cloudy
morning: passed a handsome bottom prairie on the north
side ; at the upper end of which is a grove of cotton wood,
and a long range of dark coloured bluffs on the south
side. About 9 o'clock it began to rain and we had strong
wind ahead. There are a great number of sand bars,
and we had much difficulty in getting along. We en-
camped on the north side, and one of our men killed two
deer.

Friday 7. W'e set sail early, and had a clear day:
passed high prairie land on both sides ; but there is some
cotton wood on the low points in the bottoms. On the
south side we found a scaffold of meat neatly dried.
This had been left by one of our men, who had gone out
on the 26th of last month to hunt the horses, and suppo-
sing we had got a distance ahead, proceeded up the river
several days journey, before he discovered his error.
Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke with some of the men
went to view a round knob of a hill in a prairie, and on

36 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

their return killed a prairie dog, in size about that of the
smallest species of domestic dogs.

Having understood that the village of those small dogs
was at a short distance from our camp, Captain Lewis and
Captain Clarke with all the party, except the guard, went
to it and took with them all the kettles and other vessels
for holding water; in order to drive the animals out of
their holes by pouring in water; but though they worked
at the business till night they only caught one of them.

Saturday 8. We proceeded early on our voyage, and had
a clear day and a fair wind from the S. E. Passed the bed
of a creek without water. At 9 o'clock 1 went out with
one of our men, who had killed a buffalo and left his
hat to keep off the vermin and beasts of prey; but when
we came to the place, we found the wolves had devoured
the carcass and carried off the hat. Here we found a
white wolf dead supposed to have been killed in a contest
for the buffalo. We passed high bluffs on the south side
and a burnt prairie on the north. We encamped on an
island covered with timber; and havinij a number of
buffalo on it. Captain Lewis who had been out with
some of the men hunting, informed us he had passed a
trading house built in 1796. This day we killed two
buffalo, a large and a small elk, a deer and two beaver.

Sunday 9. We set out early, and passed two small
creeks on the north side, high bluffs on the south, and
at 1 o'clock landed for dinner at a small creek on the
south side. One of our hunters brought in a deer and
two fawns. This day we saw several gangs or herds, of
buffalo on the sides of the hills: One of our hunters
killed one, and Captain Clarke's black servant killed two.
We encamped at sunset on the south side.

Monday 10. We had a foggy morning, but moved
on early ; passed high blufis on the north side, and saw
some timber in the bottom on the south side. At 12
o'clock we came to black sulphur bluffs on the south
side. On the top of these bluffs we found the skeleton
or back bones of a fish, 45 feet long, and petrified: part
of these bones were sent to the City of Washington.
One of our sergeants discovered a large salt spring about
a milo and a half from the river. A hunter went up the

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 37

bank and killed an elk. We left a periogue for the
men who were dressing the elk, and proceeded up the
north side of the river two miles, when we were obliged
to return on account of sand bars, and to take the south
side. Here we saw eight elk swimming the river, and
had seen a great many buffalo during the day. We
encamped on an island and killed one buffalo.

Tuesday 11. We set sail before day light with a fair
wind ; passed an island covered with timber, and high hills
and prairie on both sides of the river, a^t 1 o'clock it
began to rain. We saw some person coming down the
river on horseback, when we came to land and found it
was the man who had proceeded us with the horses. Ho
had left one of the horses that had failed. We now had
only one horse left. This man had been absent sixteen
days, and his bullets being expended, he subsisted twelve
days almost wholly on grapes. The hills here come
close to the river on both sides. One of the men went
by land with the horse, and we continued our voyage,
until night, though it rained very hard; and encamped on
the south side. Captain Clarke with two or three of the
men who had gone out to hunt, killed two elk, four deer
and one porcupine.

Wednesday 12. We set out as usual and had a cloudy
day; passed a long range of black bluffs on the south side,
and an island covered with timber, which is all the timber
that can be seen from this place. The country round is
all hills and prairie. Captain Clarke, myself and another
went out to hunt, and did not return until after dark.
The boat had much difficulty in passing on account of
the sand bars and strong current, and did not make to
day more than four miles.

Thursday 13. Four beaver were taken last night.
We set sail early ; the morning was cloudy with some rain
and wind ahead ; passed a creek and a long range of bluffs
on the south side. Some of our men went out to hunt ;
but did not return this evening. We encamped on the
north side.

Friday 14. We proceeded as yesterday, and with the
same kind of weather. Had considerable difficulty in
getting along on account of the shallowness of the river;

38 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

all hands in the water drafjging the boat. At eight
we halted for breakfast, and the men who went to hunt
yesterday came in, and had only killed a porcupine.
Three beaver were caught last night. The musketoes
are as troublesome as they have been any time in sum-
mer. We passed black bluffs on the south side, and an
island with limber on it. Passed a creek on the same
side, and encamped on the south. The man who had
gone by land with the horse came to us here; had killed
a hare. Captain Clarke killed a goat or antelope.

Saturday 15. A cloudy morning. We continued our
voyage early, and passed a creek on the south side and
black bluffs on the north. Passed AVhite Eiver on the
south side; one of the men and myself went up it to
examine the country, and encamped about twelve miles
from the mouth, where it is 150 yards broad. We found
good bottom on this creek ; but timber scarce, and none
upon the hills. The current and the colour of the water
are much like those of the Missouri.

Sunday 16. We set out for the boat across the hills,
on the tops of which are level plains with a great number
of goats and buffalo on them. Came to the head waters
of a creek, and kept down it a S. E. course, and on our
way killed 3 deer. We proceeded on to its mouth, which
I computed to be 14 miles from that of the White River.
Having found the boat had passed, we proceeded up the
river, and came to a handsome bottom, where our people
had encamped to dry the provisions and stores. In our
absence the men had killed some deer and two buffalo.

Monday 17. As the weather was fair, we remained
here during the day. Captain Lewis and some men went
out to hunt, and killed thirteen common, and two black-
tailed deer; three buffalo and a goat. The wild goat in
this country differ from the common tame goat, and is
supposed to be the real antelope. The black-tailed, or
mule deer have much larger ears than the common deer
and tails almost without hair, except at the end, where
there is a bunch of black hair. There is another species
of deer in this country with small horns and long tails.
The tail of one which we killed was 18 inches long.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 39

One of our men caught a beaver, and killed a prairie wolf.
These are a small species of wolves, someihing larger
than a fox, with long tails and short ears.

Tuesday 18. We continued our voyage; the day was
clear and pleasant: passed some timber land on the south
side, and hills and prairies on the north; also an island
and a great number of sand bars. Yesterday Captain
Lewis while hunting, killed a bird not common in the
states: it is like a Magpie and is a bird of prey. This
day we killed eleven deer and a wolf, and halted, and
encamped on the south side of the river in order to jirk
our meat.

Wednesday 19. We set out early, and had a clear day
passed large bottoms on both sides of the river covered
with timber. We saw some buffalo swimming the river
and killed two of them. There is an island In^re, oppo-
site which a river flows in on the north side. This river
is formed of three, which unite their waters just above its
mouth; and immediately above the confluence is a cross-
ing place, called the Sioux crossing place of the three
rivers. At the upper end, a creek, called Elm Creek,
comes in on the south side, and two miles above another
creek called W^ash Creek, falls in on the same side.
About two miles further we passed another creek called
Night Creek, where we encamped on the south side.
Three black tailed deer were killed this day.

Thursday 20. We renewed our voyage at an early
hour, and had a clear day and fair wind. Passed hand-
some rising prairies on the north side, and bottoms covered
with timber on the south side. Two of the men with the
horse went across the neck of the Long, or Grand bend,
which we were obliged to go around with the boat, a dis-
tance of thirty miles. At 1 o'clock we stopped for din-
ner, and Captain Lewis and one of the men went to
hunt, Captain Clarke had gone out in the morning. At
2 o'clock we proceeded again on our voyage, and pass-
ed a long chain of bluffs on the north side, of a dark
colour. From these and others of the same kind, the
Missouri gets its muddy colour. The earth of which
they are composed, dissolves like sugar; every rain

40

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 41

washes down great quaniiiics of it, and the rapidity of
the stream keeps it mixing and afloat in the water, until
it reaches the mouth of the Mississippi. We encamped
at 7 o'clock on a sand beach on the north side. Here
Captain Lewis, Captain Clarke and the other man joined
us. They had killed two goats and two deer. At one
o'clock at night, the bank where we were stationed began
to fall so much, that we were obliged to rouse all hands,
and go on a mile and cross the river before we could
again encamp.

I^riday 21. We set out early, the day was clear,
and we proceeded on four miles along bluffs on the south
side, when we came to the termination of the Grand Bend,
about a mile from the place of our encampment on the
19th. We again went on, having black blulfs on the
south, and a handsome bottom on the north side; and
bevond these a cedar bottom on the south side, and bluffs
on the north; passed a creek on the south side, called
Tyler's Creek; and encamped on the north side.

Saturday 22. We embarked early in a foggy morning,

saw some timber on the south side, and high plains on

the north. About 3 o'clock we passed Cedar Island, one

of the Three-Sisters, where Mr. Lucelle had built a fort

■ of cedar. The space picketed in is about ^b or 70 feet

square, with centry boxes in two of the angles. The

pickets are thirteen and a half feet above ground. In this

square he built a house 45^ by 32^ feet, and divided it

into four equal parts, one for goods, one to trade in,

one to be used as a common hall, and the other for a

family house. Here the two men came to us with the

horse. They had killed a white wolf and some deer.

W^e proceeded on, passed a creek, and islands of the

Three-Sisters; and an old Indian camp, where we found

some of their dog-poles, w^hich answ^er for setting poles.

The reason they are called dog-poles, is because the

Indians fasten their dogs to them, and make them draw

them from one camp to another loaded with skins and

other articles.* We encamped on the north side.

*Mr. Makenz'e speaking of the Knisteueaur, a numerous
nation of Indians spread over a vast extent of country extending
south westerly from the coast of Labrador, north of the St.

42 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

Siintlay 23. We went on early, and had a clear
morniiif;; passed some limber on the north side, and
iiigh land on the south; also a creek on the north side
called Smoke Creek; passed Elk Island, a liandsome bot-
tom on the north side covered with timber and barren
hills on the soutli. At six in the evening we saw four
Indians on the south side and encamped on the north.
Three of the Indians swam over to us : they belonged to
the Sioux, and enformed us that there were more of their
nation not far distant. We sent them over the river
again. One of our men killed an antelope.

Monday 24. We set sail early with fair weather, and
passed a small creek on the south side. About 3 o'clock
the man who had gone by land with the horse came to
us, and informed us that he had gone that morning on
an island to kill elk, and that while he was there the In-
dians had stolen the horse. He had killed three elk,
and the periogues remained behind to bring on the meat.
We saw five Indians on the bank, but we could not
understand each other. V/e cast anchor to wait for the
periogues; one of which having come up, we went on to
the mouth of the Tinton or Teeton River, where we an-
chored about 100 yards from the shore on the south
side. The guard and cooks only landed, the rest slept
in the boat. The five Indians remained with us all
night. We had a Frenchmen aboard a periogue, who
understood and could speak a Uttle of the Sioux language.
The Indians gave us to understand the chiefs would
come to-morrow, and that if their young men had taken
the horse, they would have him given up. These In-
dians are a band of Sioux, called the Tinton or Teeton
Band.

Tuesday 25. We staved here to wait for the Indians,

who were expected to arrive at 10 o clock, they came,

about 60 in number. The commanding officers made

three of them chiefs, and gave them some presents.

Laurence and its Lakes and the Lake Winnipie, east of Elk River,
south of the lake of the Hills, and west, south and east of "James's
Bay and the southern Part of Hudson's Bay, says, "In the winter
when the waters are frozen, they make their journics, which are
never of any great lenjjth, with sledges drawn hy dogs."

General Hisionj of the Fur Trade.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 43

Five of thorn cnmo on board and remained three hours.
Captain Chirke and some of our men in a periogue went
ashore with them; but tlie Indians (Ud not seem disposed
to permit tlieir return. They said they were poor and
wished to keep the periogue with them. Captain Clarke
insisted on coming to the boat; but they refused to let
Iiim, and said thev had soldiers as well as he had. He
told them that his soldiers were good, and that he had
more medicine aboard his boat than would kill twenty
such nations in one day. After this they did not threat-
en any more, and said they only wanted us to stop at
their lodge, that the women and children might see the
boat. Four of them came aboard, when we proceeded
on a mile, and cast anchor at the point of an island in
the middle of the river. The Indians remained with us
all night.

Wednesday 26. We set out early, and proceeded on
four miles. The bank of the river on the south side was
covered all the way with Indians; and at 10 o'clock we
met the whole band, and anchored about 100 vards from
the shore. Captain Lewis, the chiefs, and some men
went on shore, the Indians were peaceable and kind.
After some time Captain Lewis returned on board, and
Captain Clarke went on shore. When the Indians saw
him coming they met him with a butfalo robe, spread it
out and made him get into it, and then eight of them car-
ried him to the council house. About an hour after some
of them came for Captain Lewis, and he landed; and
eight of them carried him to the council house in the
same manner, they had carried Captain Clarke. They
killed several dogs for our people to feast on, and spent
the greater part of the day in eating and smoking. At
night the women assembled, and danced till 11 o'clock:
then the officers came on board with two chiefs, who
continued with us until the morning.

Thursday 27. W^e remained here all day. Captain
Lewis, myself and some of the men went over to the
Indian camp. Their Lodges are about eighty in number,
and contain about ten persons each, the greater part
women and children. The women were employed in

44 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

dressing bufTalo skins, for clotliing for themselves and
for covering ihoir lodges. They are the most friend-
ly people 1 ever saw; but will pilfer if they have an
opportunity. They are also very dirty: the water they
make use of, is carried in the paunches of the animals
they kill, just as they are emptied, without being
cleaned. They gave us dishes of victuals of various
kinds; I had never seen any thing like some of these
dishes, nor could I tell of what ingredients, or how they
were made.

About fifteen days ago they had a battle with the
Mahas, of whom they killed seventy five men, and
took twenty five women prisoners, whom they have
now with them. They promised to Captain Lewis,
that they would send the prisoners back and make
peace.

About 3 o'clock we went aboard the boat accompanied
with the old chief and his little son. In the evening
Captain Clarke and some of the men went over, and
the Indians made ])reparations for a dance. At dark
it commenced. Captain Lewis, myself and some of
our parly went up to see them perform. Their band
of music, or orchestra, was composed of about twelve
persons beating on a buffalo hide, and shaking small
bags that made a rattling noise, They had a large
fire in the center of their camp; on one side the
women, about eighty in number, formed in a solid
column round the fire, with sticks in their hands,
and the scalps of the Mahas they had killed, tied
on them. They kept moving, or jumping round the
fire, rising and falling on both feet at once; keeping
a continual noise, singing and yelling. In this man-
ner they continued till 1 o'clock at night, when we
returned to the boat with two of the chiefs. On coming
aboard, the periogue run across the bow of the boat and
broke the cable. All hands were roused to row the
boat ashore; the chiefs called aloud, and a number
of the warriors came to our assistance, but we did
not need it; the circumstance, however, shewed their
disposition to be of service. This unfortunate accident
lost to us our anchor.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 45

Friday 28. This morning wo dragged the river
all round where the boat lay, but could not find the
anchor. At 9 o'clock we made preparations to sail;
some of the chiefs were on board, and concluded
to go some distance with us. When we went to shove
off, some of the the Indians took hold of the rope and
would not let it go. This conduct had like to be atten-
ded with bad consequences, as Captain Lewis was near
giving orders to cut the rope and to fire on them.
The chiefs, however, went out and talked with them:
they said they wanted a carrot of tobacco, and that
if we gave that we might go. The tobacco was given
them, and we went off under a gentle breeze of wind.
We passed high land on the north side, and bottom
on the south. We proceeded four miles, and then
saw an Indian following us along the beach, when
Captain Lewis, went in a periogue and brought him on
board. He informed us that three hundred more
Indians had come to their camp, and desired we
should stop and talk with them. We did not then
stop, but proceeded on, and ho remained on board.
We passed a fine bottom covered with timber on the
north side, and bare hills on the south. We made two
large stones serve the purpose of an anchor, and at
sunset anchored for the night, near a small sand-bar
in the middle of the river.

While I was at the Indian camp yesterday they yoked
a dog to a kind of car, which thev have to haul their
baggage from one camp to another; the nation having
no settled place or village, but are always moving
about.* The dogs are not large, much resemble a woli',
and will haul about seventy pounds each.

* It appears that these people, (in some respects resembling
the wandering Arabs) are an unsettled, ferocious, blood-thirsty
race, and have been great destroyers of the Algonquin nation,
who inhabit the country about lake Superior. Mr. M'Kenzie
states the following circumstance, "Within three miles of tha
last portage" (a place near lake Superior) "is a remarkable rock,

46 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

CHAPTER IV.

Saturday 29. "VVc scl sail early and had fair wcaihor;
passed a handsome hollom covered willi limber on the
north side, and bluffs on the south. We saw several
Indians on the south side walking up the shore; spoke
to them and found they were some of those we left
yesterday. They requested us to give them a carrot of
tobacco for the chiefs of the other band to smoke.
We sent them two carrots to a sand bar, where they
could get it; but told them we should not go on shore
again, until we came to the nation of the Aricaris,
commonly called Rickarees, Rickrees. or Rees. The
Missouri is very shallow at this time and full of sand
bars. We passed an old village on the south side,
where the Rickarecs lived five years ago, and raised
corn in the bottom, around the village. We encamped
on a sand beach on the south side of the river.

Sunday 30. We set out early, in a cloudy morning;
passed black bluffs on the south side, and handsome bot-
tom prairie on the north; saw an Indian on the shore,
and the chief we had on board spoke to him. He said
he wished to come on board and go with us to the
Rees; but we did not take him. The wind was fair
and we made nine miles by 10 o'clock. We saw a
great number of Indians coming down to the river on
the south side. We stopt for breakfast about 200 yards
from the shore; then proceeded about a mile; near
to the place where the Indians were encamped on the

with a smooth face, but split and cracked in different parts,
which liang over the water. Info one of its horizontal chasms
a jrreat nnmber of arrows have been shot, which is said to have
been done by a war party of the Nadowasis or Sieux, wlio had done
much nii»chi('f in this country, and left these weapons as a
warning to the Chcbois or natives, that, notwithstanding its lakes,
rivers and rocks, it was not inaccessible to their enemies."

General History of the Fur Trade.

48 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

soutli side; wc balled and spoke to ihcm and then went
on under a line brc^eze of wind.

A short time before night, the waves ran very high
and the boat rocked a great deal, which so ahirmed our
old chief, that he would not go any further. We
encamped on the north side.

Monday October 1, 1804. We early continued our
voyage, the morning was cloudy but the wind fair and
we sailed rapidly. At nine we passed the River Dc
Chien, or Dog River; a large river that comes in on
the south side. A short distance above this river, the
sand bars are so numerous, that we had great difficulty
to get along, and encamped on one in the middle of tlie
river. There were some French traders on the other
bank of the river, and one of them came over and
remained with us all nio;ht.

Tuesday 2. We set sail before daylight. A French-
man came on board, who could speak English. He
mentioned it, as his opinion, that we should see no more
Indians, until we should arrive at the nation of Rees.
We passed a range of black bluffs on the north side and
a large bottom on the south, where there was some tim-
ber on the bank of the river. About 2 o'clock we
discovered some Indians on the hills on the nortli side,
and one of them came down to the bank and fired a gun;
the object or intention we did not well understand, but were
ready to meet an attack. We passed black bluffs on the
south side, an island covered with timber, and a handsome
bottom on the north side. We halted and spoke to the
Indian, who said he belonged to the Jonkta or Babarole
Band, and that there were twenty lodojes of them. We
told him we had seen two of their chiefs, and given them
a flag and medal. W^e passed a creek on the south side,
and encamped on a sandbar in the middle of the river.

Wednesday 3. The morning was cloudy, and some
rain fell. The land is high on both sides of the river.
About 12 o'clock the wind began to blow so hard down
the stream that we were unable to proceed, and we halt(;d
under some high bluffs, where driftwood was plenty.
At three we continued our voyage; passed a long rango

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 49

of dark coloured bluffs on the south side and bottom,
with some timber, on the north. We encamped on the
south side.

Thursday 4. We set out early; but were obliged
to return to the place where we halted yesterday at
twelve and to take the other side of the river; the
water was so shallow and sand bars so numerous.
At 9 o'clock an Indian swam across the river to see
us, when we stopped for breakfast. We informed him
that we were not traders, that wo had seen his chief and
told him all we had to say. We proceeded on, passed
a creek on the south side, called Teel Creek, and
encamped on the upper part of an island.

Friday 5. This morning there was a white frost; the
day clear and pleasant. About eleven we saw some
goats swimming the river, when one of our hunters ran
up the shore and killed four of them, and we took them
into the boat and periogues as they floated down. We
passed a creek on the north side, called Hidden Creek,
and hi£[h black blutls on the south side.* Some of our
hunters having gone on an island to hunt, and scared a
])rairie wolf in the river, which we killed. We passed
a creek on the south side called White Goat Creek and
encamped on the north side.

Saturday 6. We continued our vovage early, and
had a clear day ; passed blutfs on the south side, and a
bottom covered with timber on the north. About eleven
we passed a handsome bottom, where a band of the
Rees lived last winter. They had left a number of
round huts covered with earth, some of their water craft
made of buffalo hides, and some garden truck, such as
squashes. We proceeded on and passed a small creek
on the south side ; a handsome bottom on the north; and
encamped on a sand beach on the north side.

Sunday 7. We set forward early, and had a clear

*To prevent mistakes, owing' to the very winding course of
the river, Starbord side and Larboard side were made use of in
the original journal, instead of north side and south side; during
the remainder of the voyage up the Missouri; but have been
changed to north side and south side, as being better under-
stood, and sufficiently representing the general course of the river.
4

50 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

day: passed a willow bottom on the south side, and a
creek on the north. At the beginning of some limber
land we passed a small river on the south side, called
Cer-wer-cer-na, about 90 yards wide. It is not so sandy
as the Missouri, and the water is clear with a deep chan-
nel. At the mouth of this river is a wintering camp of
the Rickarees of 60 lodges. We saw two Sioux Indians
on the north side, gave them some meat and proceeded
on. We passed an island, on which Captain Clarke
and one of the men went to hunt and killed a deer
and prarow. We encamped on the north side opposite
the head of the island.

I\Ionday 8. The morning was pleasant, and we set
out early: passed highland on the south side, and bottom
on the north. The river here is very shallow and full
of sand bars. W^e passed a run on the south side called
Slate Run. Two of our hunters went out to some timber
land on the north side to look for game. At twelve we
came to a river on the south side, 120 yards wide, called
the Marapa, where we halted for dinner. The hunters
came up. but had killed nothirg. We passed a long
range of hills on the north side; about two miles from the
Marapa we j)asscd a creek 25 yards wide; and about
four miles further came to an island, where one band of
the Rickarees live, and encamped at the upper end.

Tuesday 9. The day was stormy, and we remained *
here preparing to hold a Council with the nation. Capt.
Lewis with some of the men v.ent down to their lodges,
and were used very kindly and friendly. Two Friench-
men live with them, one to trade, and the other to inter-
pret.

Wednesday 10. This day I went with some of the
men to the lodges, about GO in number. The following
is a description of the form of these lodges, and the man-
ner of building them.

In a circle of a size suited to the dimension, of the
intended lodge, they set up IG forked posts five or
six feet high, and lay poles from one fork to another.
Against those poles they lean other poles, slanting from
the ground, and extending about four inches above the

52 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

cross poles: these are to receive the ends of the upper
])olcs, tliat support the roof. They next set up four
large forks, fifteen feet high, and about ten feet apart,
in tlie middle of the area, and poles or beams between
these. The roof poles are then laid on extending from
the lower poles across the beams which rest on the mid-
dle forks, of such a length as to leave a hole at the top
for a chimney. The whole is then covered with willow
branches, except the chimney and a hole to pass
through. On the willow branches they lay grass and
lastly clay. At the hole below, they build a pen
about four feet wide, and projecting ten feet from the hut,
and banc: a buffalo skin at the entrance of the hut for a
door. This labor like every other kind is chiefly per-
formed by the squaws. They raise corn, beans and
tobacco. Their tobacco is different from any 1 had
before seen: it answers for smoking, but not for chewing.
On our return, I crossed from the island to the boat, with
two squaws in a buffalo skin stretched on a frame made
of boughs, wove together like a crate or basket for that
purpose. Ca])tain Lewis and Captain Clarke held a
Council with the Indians, and gave them some presents.
Thursday 11. A clear day. We waited for an
answer from the Indians. About 12 o'clock, they came,
and brought some corn, beans and squashes, which they
presented to us. The chief said he was glad to see us,
and wished our commanding officers would speak a good
word for them to the JMandans; for they wanted to be at
j)eace with them. These are the best looking Indians 1
liave ever seen. At 1 o'clock P. M. we proceeded on
our voyage ; passed a creek on the south side 20 yards
wide, and a handsome bottom covered with timber. Hav-
ing made about four miles, we came to the second
Village of the Rickarees, situated in a prairie on the
south side. They had the American flag hoisted which
Captain Lewis gave them yesterday. Their lodges are
similar to those in the first Village, and the same, or
perhaps more in number. They are the most cleanly
Indians I have ever seen on the voyage; as well as the
most friendly and industrious. We anchored about 60

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 53

yards from shore, and sent a perioguc over ilic river
tor wood. We all slept on board exeepi the cooks, who
went on shore to prepare provisions for ilie next day.

Friday 12. We had a pleasant morning, and remained
liere the forenoon to hear the chief of this village speak.
Last night the Indians stole an ax from our cook, which
of course in some degree diminished our contidence, and
lessened the amicable character we had conceived of
them. At 9 o'clock, Captain Lewis, Caj)iain Clarke and
myself went to the second Village, and talked with its
chief: then to the third Villagf^ about half a mile beyond
a small creek, and talked with the chief of that Village;
and eot some corn and beans from them. The third
Village is nearly of the same size of the second, and
has in it a great numb(^r of handsome and smart women
and children: the men are mostly out hunting. About
twelve we left the village, and proceeded on our voyage.
One of the natives agreed to go with us as far as the
Mandans. We encamped on the north side. After dark
we heard some person hallooing on the opposite shore;
and a pcriogue went over and brought an Indian and two
squaws, who remained with us all night.

Saturday 13. We proceeded on early and had a
cloudy day; passed Pond River on the north side, about
50 yards wide. One of the sc^uaws went on with us.
At twelve it rained some, and we halted to hold a court
martial. At two continued our voyage, and did not get
landing until after dark, the bank was so high and steep
on one side, and the water so shallow on the other. We
encamped on the north side.

Sunday 14. We had a cloudy morning and some rain.
We proceeded early on our voyage; passed a bottom
covered with timber on the south side, and low ground
covered with willows on the north ; passed a creek and
black bluffs on the south side, and encamped on the north.
It rained slowly during the whole day.

Monday 15. It rained all last night, and we set out
early in a cloudy morning. At seven we saw a hunting
party of the Rickerees, on their way down to the vill-
ages. They had twelve buffalo skin canoes or boats

54 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

ladcned with moat and skins; besides some horses that
were going down the l)ank by land. They gave us a
part of their meat. The party consisted of men, women
and children. At eight we went on again; ])assed a
fine bottom covered with cotton wood on the north side,
and naked hills on the south. About ten, we saw anoth-
er party of hunters, who asked us to cat, and gave us
some meat. One of these requested to speak with our
young squaw, who for some time hid herself, but at last
came out and spoke with him. She then went on shore
and talked with him, and gave him a pair of ear-rings
and drops for leave to come with us ; and when the horn
blew for all hands to come on board, she left them and
came to the boat. We passed a creek on the south side,
and cncampod at dusk on the north; where there was a
party of Indians, about thirty in number. Our squaw
remained with this i)arty. They gave us some meat,
and appeared very glad to see us.

Tuesday 16. We early renewed our voyage; and
had a clear morning, passed a creek on the south side.
The timber is more plenty than it has been for a con-
siderable distance down the river. The sand bars, gave
us a great deal of trouble, and much retarded our pro-
gress. In the evening a short lime before we encamped,
we met with another hunting party of the Rickarees.
They had a flock of goats, or antelopes, in the river, and
killed upwards of forty of them. Captain Lewis, and
one of our hunters went out and killed three of the same
flock. We encamped on the south side. This day we
saw more than a hundred goats.

Wednesday 17. We renewed our voyage early, and
had a clear morning. Last night eight of the Indians
came over to see us, brought us some meat and remained
all night. Captain Lewis, gave them some presents
this morning. At half past ten, the wind blew so hard
down the river that we were obliged to halt. At four
we proceeded on with the assistance of the tow line,
though the wind still continued against us, and having
made about two miles, encamped on the south side.
Several hunters went out this day and killed six deer:
one of them did not join us at night.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 55

Thursday 18. We had a clear pleasant morning
with some frost. We set sail early, and a hunter went
up each shore. Having proceeded two miles, we met
a couple of Frenchmen in a canoe, who had been up at
the Mandan nation hunting, and met with a party of
that nation, who robbed them of their arms, ammunition
and some fur, wich they had; and therefore they had to
return down the river; but meeting us, went back in
hopes of recovering their property. We passed a small
river, on the south side called Cannon-ball River.
Several hunters wont out here. We passed a creek
on the north side, called Fish Creek, on which I killed
a deer. At night we encamped on the south side, and
all the hunters came in, having killed six deer, four
goats and a pelican.

Friday 19. Early this morning we renewed our
voyage, having a clear day and fair wind: passed a creek
on the south side. While out hunting yesterday I saw
about 300 goats and some buffalo. Deer are not so
plenty here as lower down the river, but elk, buffalo, and
goats, are very numerous. Four hunters went out to
day, and in tlie evening returned with seven deer and
three elk. We encamped on tjie north side.

Saturday 20. We were early under way this morn-
ing, which was very pleasant. Two hunters went out
and at breakfast time brought a deer to the boat ; when
four more went out. We passed a creek on the north
side, about 20 yards wide; bottom covered with timber
on both sides, and a small river on the south side op-
posite the lower point of an island. At the upper end
we passed bluffs on the south side, and bottom on the
north. We this day, saw a number of buffalo and goats
on the sides of the hills. We encamped on the south
side, and our hunters came in having, killed 14 deer, a
goat and a wolf; and one of them wounded a large white
bear.

Sunday 21. We had a disagreeable night of sleet
and hail. It snowed during the forenoon, but we pro-
ceeded early on our voyage, passed bottom on the south
side, and hills on the north. We also passed a small

56 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

river on ihc south side called Chischect River; and
encamped on the south side. Two of the hunters, who
had gone out in the morning came in, and had killed a
buffalo and an otter.

Monday 22. Some snow fell last night, and the
morning was cloudy and cold. We embarked early and
went on. At nine we saw 11 Indians of the Sioux nation
coming down from the Mandans, who, notwithstanding
the coldness of the weather, had not an article of clo-
thing except their breech-clouts. At 1 o'clock the day
became clear and pleasant, and we encamped at night on
the south side.

Tuesday 23. Some snow fell last night, and the
morning was cloudy. At eight, it began to snow, and
continued snowing to eleven, when it ceased. We pass-
ed the place where the Frenchmen had been robbed, but
no Indians could be seen. The hills here are further
from the river, than they are for some distance down it;
and there are fme large bottoms on both sides covered
w^ith cotton wood. We encamj)ed on the south side
where we found a great quntity of rabbit berries. Three
hunters were out to day, but killed nothing.

CHAPTER V.

Wednesday 24. W^e set out early in a cloudy morn-
ing. At nine, it began to rain and continued to rain
for an hour. At twelve, we came to a hunting party
of the Mandan nation of Indians, and remained with
them until two and then continued our voyage. There
were three lodges of these Indians on an island, which
has been cut off the Grand Bend, a short distance
below the Mandan village. We encamped on the north
side. Five of the Indians came to us, and our Indian
went over with them, and returned in the morning.

Thursday 25. The morning was pleasant, and we

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 57

set sail early with a fair wind. Passed a bcauiiful bot-
tom on the 'south side, and hills on the north. A great
many of the natives, some on horseback and some on
foot appeared on the hills halooing and singing. At
two, we stopped for dinner, and as we could not get our
boat to shore on the north side, the water being shallow,
our Indian was sent over to them. In the afternoon we
passed a bottom covered with timber on the north side,
and hills on the south, and encamped on ilic north side.
Here our Indian returned accompanied by one of the
Mandans.

Friday 26. ^V^c set out early, and had a clear morn-
ing; passed a large willow bottom on the south, and
high land on the north side. The Mandan Indian left
us early in the morning. At ten, we came to a hunting
party of the Mandans, consisting of men, women and
children. There was an Irishman with them, who had
come from the North West Company of traders. We
remained here an hour, and then proceeded. A number
of the Indians kept along the shore opposite the boat all
day, on the south side, on which side we encamped.
Some of them remained with us to twelve at night, and
then returned to their village.*

Saturday 27. The morning was clear and pleasant
and we set out early At half past seven, we arrived at
the first village of the Mandans, and halted about two
hours. This village contains 40 or 50 lodges, built in
the manner of those of the Rickarees. These Indians
have better complexions than most other Indians, and
some of the children have fair hair. We passed a bluff
on the south side, with a stratum of black resembling coal.
There is a bottom on the north side, where the second
Mandan village is situated. We went about a mile
above it, and encamped in the same bottom, for the
purpose of holding a council with the natives. This
place is 1610 miles from the mouth of the river du Bois,
where we first embarked to proceed on the expedition.
There are about the same number of lodges, and people,
in this village as in the first. These people do not bury

B8 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

ihoir (load, but j)l;ico ilio body on a scaffold, wrapped in
a JMiffalo rob;;, wluTo it lies exposed.*

Sunday 28. Tbe day was clear, and we remained
here; but could not sit in council, the wind blew so
violent.

Monday 29. We had aijain a clear day, and some
of the principal men came from each village of the
Mandans, from the Watasoons, Sioux, and one from
the Grossventers; and all sat in council together. At
1 1 o'clock, when the Council met, a shot was fired
from our bow piece, and the commanding officers took
the chiefs by the hand. Captain Lewis, through an in-
terpreter, delivered a speech; gave a suit of clothes to
each of the chiefs, and some articles for their villages.
He also sent a suit to the chief of the Grossventers. At
3 o'clock another gun was lired at the breaking up of
ths council, and they all appeared satisfied. Captain
Lewis gave an iron mill to the Mandan nation to grind
corn, with which they were highly pleased.

Tuesday 30. We remained here to know the answer
of the Indians. The day was clear and pleasant. At
ton. Captain Ljwis with a party of our people, and an
Indian or two, went about six miles up the river to
view an island, in order to ascertain whether or not it
would suit for winter quarters. At five P. I\I. they
returned and were of opinion that it was not an eligible
place.

Wednesday 3L A pleasant morning. We remained
here also to day, the Indians havmg given no answer.
At twelve, Captain Clarke and some of the men went
down to the village, and the chief gave 9 or 10 bushels
of corn, and some buffalo robes.

Thursday Nov. 1, 1804. At 3 o'clock P. M. we
returned down the riv(>r. to look for a ])lace where we
could fix our winter quarters. At dark we had descend-
ed 9 miles, and came to a bottom covered with cotton
wood where we encamped.

Friday 2. Captain Lewis, myself and some of the
men, went up to the first village of the Mandans, who

* Seo Makonzie's account of the funeral rites of the Knistcneux,
iu his Gcueral History of the Fur Trade.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 59

gave US some corn. Captain Clarke and the rest of our
parlv, having dropped half a mile lower down the river,
began to clear a place for a camp and fort. We pitched
our tents and laid the foundation of one line of huts.

Saturday 3. A clear day; we continued building, and
six men went down the river in a periogue to hunt.
They will perhaps have to go 30 or 40 miles before
they come to good hunting ground. The following is
the manner in which our huts and fort were built. The
huts were in two rows, containing four rooms each, and
joined at one end, forming an angle. When raised
about seven feet high, a floor of })uncheons, or split
plank were laid, and covered with grass and clay; which
made a warm loft. The upper ])art projected a foot over
and the roofs were made shed fashion, rising from the
inner side, and making the outer wall about 18 feet high.
The part not inclosed by the huts we intend to picket.
In the angle formed by the two rows of huts we^ built two
rooms, for holding our provisions and stores.

About the 16, the weather became very cold, and the
ice beijan to run in the river. W^e sent a Frenchman
down to enquire about the hunters and periogue. He
and one of the hunters returned to the fort, having left
the periogue and the rest about 30 miles below. The
Frenchman was sent down again with a rope, and
returned by land. On the 19, the hunters came up with
the periogue loaded with the meat of about thirty deer,
eleven elk, and some buffalo. In the cold weather we
moved into the huts, though not finished. From the
20th to the 27ih we had fine pleasant weather, and on
the evening of the latter, finished the roofs of our huts.
These were made of puncheons, split out of cotton wood
and then hewed. The cotton wood resembles the lom-
bardy, poplar, and is a light soft wood. The largest
trees are in thickness about 18 inches diameter. On the
night of the 27th the snow fell seven inches deep, and
the 28th was stormy

Thursday 29. This day was clear, but cold. W^e
went to unrig the boat, and by an accident, one of the
sergeants had his shoulder dislocated. The 30th the

60 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

weather coiuinued the same. Early in the morning of
this (lav, wc saw an Indian on iho opposite side of the
river, and brought him over. He informed us, iliat, a
few days ago, eight of his nation were out hunting, and
were attacked by a party of the Sioux tribe, who killed
one and would two more; and also carried off their horses.
Captain Clarke and 23 men immediately set out with
an intention of pursuing the murderers. They went up
to the first village of the I\Iandans, but their warriors
did not seem disposed to turn out. They suggested the
coldness of the weather; that the Sioux were too far
gone to be overtaken; and put ofT the ex})edition to
the spring of the year. Captain Clarke and his party
returned the same evening to the fort. We have been
daily visited by the Indians since we came here. Our
fort is called Fort Mandan, and by observation is in
latitude 47. 21. 32. 8.*

* The course of the Missouri, and distances of places on it,
appear to be very erroneously laid down upon the maps of Louis-
iana generally. On these the villages of the Mandans are
placed in about 431 degrees of nortii latitude, and ll2i of west
longitude from Greenwich. This would place them about 500
miles nearer the mouth of the Columbia on the Pacific Ocean,
than the mouth of tht* Missouri: supposing the mouth of the
Columbia to be about 124 degrees west of London. But the near-
est practicable route from the Mandan villages, to the mouth of
the Columbia, according to Captain Clarke's estimate, places
them 335 mik-s nearer tiie mouth of the Missouri, than that of the
Columbia; and by the route actually taken by the expedition to
the mouth of the Columbia, they are 900 miles nearer the mouth
of the Missouri.

By Captain Lewis's observations, these villages are in latitude
47. 2L 32. 8. And according to Mr. Makenzie, Mr. Thompson
astronomer to the North West company, in the year 1798, deter-
mined the nortii bend of the Missouri, to be in latitude 47. 32.
north, and longitude 101. 25. west. Now this is probably near the
longitude of the Mandan villages; for as it appears by the above
statement, ;ind by other observations of Captain Lewis near the
mouth of the Missouri, that the course of the river is, for a con-
siderable distance, nearly due west, and afterwards nearly due
north. The difference of longitude, and latitude, between the
mouth of the Missouri and the point where Mr. Thompson took
his observations, may be added together, in estimating the distance:
and this will give about 8i degrees of latitude, and 9 degrees of
longitude raakiug the whole iTi degrees, which from the very

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. Gl

Saturday December 1, 1804. The clay was pleasant,
and we began to cut and carry pickets to complete our
fort. One of the traders from the North West company
came to the fort, and related that the Indians had been
troublesome in his way through. An Indian came down
from the first Mandan village, and told us that a great
number of the Chien or Dog nation had arrived near the
village.

Sunday 2. The day was pleasant, and the snow
melted fast. A party of the Chien Indians with some of
the Mandans came to the fort: they appeared civil and
good natured.

The 3, 4, and 5, were moderate and we carried on
the work; but the 6, was so cold and stormy, we could
do nothing. In the night the river froze over, and in
the morning was covered with solid ice an inch and a
half thick.

Friday 7. A clear cold morning. At 9 o'clock, the
Big white-head chief, of the first village of the Mandans,
came to our garrison and told us that the buffalo were
in the prairie coming into the bottom. Captain Lewis
and eleven more of us, went out immediately, and saw
the prairie covered with buffalo and the Indians on
horseback killing them. They killed 30 or 40 and we
killed 1 1 of them. They shoot them with bows and
arrows, and have their horses so trained that they will
advance very near and suddenly wheel and fly off in
case the wounded buffalo attempt an attack.

Saturday 8. In our hunt of yesterday, two men had
their feet frost-bitten. Captain Clarke and another party
went out though the cold was extreme, to hunt the buf-
falo; and killed nine, and a deer. One man got his hand
frozen, another his foot; and some more got a little touch-
ed. Two men encamped out to take care of the meat.

Sunday 9. Captain Lewis and twelve more of us,

meandering course of the Missouri, may be sufficient to include
1610 miles of it, the distance from the mouth to the villages. In
the map of North America included in the Atlas accompanying
Pinkerton's Geography, published in 1804, this part of the Mis-
souri, appears pretty accurately laid down; but in the map of
Louisiana, in the same set it is equally erroneous with any other.

wm^m

'<M

■i>]

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 63

went down to the bottom where the two men were taking
care of the meat. We found some butlalo had come
into the woods, and we killed ten of them and a deer.
Havinji dressed them, we loaded four horses with meat
and sent them with some of the party to the fort ; Capt.
Lewis and the rest of us encamped out, and had toler-
able lodirins with the assistance of the hides of iho
buffalo we had killed.

Monday 10. After breakfasting on marrow bones;
Captain Lewis and four of us set out for the fort. Four
hunters and another man to keep camp remained out.
On our return we met one of our men, who said that a
party had gone down with the horses for more meat.
This day was viery cold; an experiment was made with
proof spirits, which in fifteen minutes froze into hard
ice. In the evening two of our hunters came in with the
horses, but had killed nothing. Five encamped out.

Tuesday IL Captain Lewis and Ca})iain Clarke
thinking the weather too cold to hunt, sent men down
to the camp to bring up the remainder of the meat, and
orders for the hunters to return. The hunters came in
at dark. They had killed four buffalo, and dressed two
ef them. The cold was so severe they could do nothing
with the other two.

Wednesday 12. We all remained at the garrison
the weather being intensely cold. We made three small
sleds to haul in the meat with.

Thursday 13. The weather this day, began to be
more moderate. Two hunters went out and killed two
buffalo. One came in, and he and some of the men
went out and brought in the meat.

Friday 14. This day was more moderate, and light
snow showers fell. Captain Clarke and fourteen men
went out to hunt; and took the three sleds with them. In
the evening five of them returned. Captain Clarke and
the other nine encamped out, and killed two deer. The
snow fell about three inches deep.

Saturday 15. A cloudy day. Some of the natives
paid us a visit, and brought presents of meat to the com-
manding officers. About 1 o'clock Captain Clarke and

Ct JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

his parlv returned, but liad killed nothing more. Tho
bulllilo were gone from the river. Some slight snow
showers fell during the day.

Sunday 16. A clear cold day. I went up with some
of the men to the first and second villages of the Man-
dans, and we were treated with much kindness. Three
of the traders from the North West Company came to
our fort, and brought a letter to our commanding officers.
They remained with us all night. The object of the
visits we received from the North West Company, was
to ascertain our motives for visiting that country, and to
gain information with respect to the change of govern-
ment.*

I\Ionday 17. This was a cold clear day, and we all
remained in the garrison. A sled was fitted up for one
of the North West traders to return in. In the evening
one of the natives came down and told us the buffalo
were again come to the river.

Tuesday 10. A very cold day. Six of us went out
to look for the buffalo; but could see nothing but some
goats. At nine we returned and found that the men
from the North West Company had set out on their
return, notwithstanding the severity of the weather.

* The North West Company was first formed in the winter of
1783-4, by the merchants of Canada ingaged in tlie fur trade,
uniting their interests. The concern was divided into sixteen
shares, without any capital being deposited; each party furnishing
his proportion of the articles necessary for carrying on tiie trade.
After a severe struggle and rival competition with others engaged
in the trade, in the year 1787 more partners were admitted, the
shares extended to twenty, and the establishment, which was no
more than an association of commercial men agreeing among them-
selves to carry on the fur trade, founded on a more solid basis.

This and Hudson's Bay Company, have engrossed and carry on
almost the whole trade in that extensive country, situated between
Hudson's Bay, and the Rocky IMountains, and that high tract of
country west of lake Superior, which separates the southern from
the northern waters: and have factories, forts, and trading estab-
lishments on the Winnipic, Assiniboin, Sturgeon, Saskatchiwine,
Elk, and most of the other great lakes and rivers, which communi-
cate with or discharge themselves into Hudson's Bay, and the
North sea. It is said that some change has sinco taken place in
the establishmcut of tlie North West Comp;iny.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 65

Wednesday 19. This was a more pleasant day, and
we began to set up the pickets.

The 20, and 21, were quite warm and pleasant, and
we advanced with our work.

Saturday 22. The weather continued clear, pleasant
and warm. A great number of the natives came with
corn, beans and moccasins to trade, for which they would
take anything — old shirts, buttons, awls, knives and the
like articles.

Sunday 23. The weather continued pleasant, and we
proceeded in our operations in setting up the pickets.

Monday 24. Some snow fell this morning; about 10
it cleared up, and the weather became pleasant. This even-
ing we finished our fortification. Flour, dried apples, *
pepper and other articles were distributed in the different
messes to enable them to celebrate Christmas in a proper
and social manner.

Tuesday 25. The morning was ushered in by two dis-
charges of a swivel, and a round of small arms by the
whole corps. Captain Clarke then presented to each
man a glass of brandy, and we hoisted the American flag
in the garrison, and its first waving in fort Mandan was
celebrated with another glass. The men then cleared
out one of the rooms and commenced dancing. At 10
o'clock we had another glass of brandy, and at one a gun
was fired as a signal for dinner. At half past two anoth-
er gun was fired, as, a notice to assemble at the dance,
which was continued in a jovial manner till eight at night;
and without the presence of any females, except three
squaws, wives of our interpreter, who took no other part
than the amusement of looking oil. None of the natives
came to the garrison thi'=i day; the commanding officers
havino- requested they should not, which was strickly at-
tended to. During the remainder of the month we lived
in peace and tranquility in the garrison, and were daily
visited by the natives.

66 JO'JfvNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

CHAPTER VI.

Tuesday, January 1, 1805. Two shots were fired
from the swivel, followed by a round of small arms, to
welcome the New Year. Captain Lewis then gave each
a glass of good old whiskey; and a short lime after anoth-
er was given by Captain Clarke.

About 11 o'clock one of the interpreters and half of
our people, went up, at the request of the natives, to the
village, to begin the dance; and were followed some time
after by Captain Clarke, and three more men. The day
was warm and pleasant. Ca})tain Lewis in the afternoon
issued another glass of whiskey; and at night Captain
Clarke and part of the men returned from the village, the
rest remained all night.

Wednesday 2. Some snow fell this morning. The
men, who remained at the village last night, returned. —
Captain Lewis, myself and some others went up to the
second village and amused ourselves with dancing &;c,
ihe greater part of the day. In the evening we in general
returned and a great number of the natives, men, women
and children, came to see us, and appeared highly j)leased.

This day 1 discovered how the Indians kee]) their hor-
ses during the winter. In the day time they are permit-
ted to run out and gather what they can; and at night are
brought into the lodges, with the natives themselves, and
fed upon cotton wood branches: and in this way they are
kept in tolerable case.

Thursday 3. From this to the 13th the weather was
generally very cold; but our hunters were frequently out.
One of them killed a beautiful white hare. These ani-
mals are said to be ])lenty. ^Ve killed a small buflalo,
three elk, four deer and two or three wolves. Three of
the hunters going to a distance down the river, killed
nothing for two days, but a wolf, which they were obliged
to eat; and said they relished it pretty well, but found it
rather tough, A number of the natives being out hunting
in a very cold day, one of them gave out on his return in
the evening; and was left in the })lain or prairie covered

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS, 67

wiih a bufTalo robe. After some time he began to recov-
er and removed to the woods, where he broke a number
of branches to lie on, and to keep his body off the snow.
In the morning he came to the fort, with his feel badly-
frozen, and the officers undertook his cure.

Sunday 13. A clear cold day. A number of the na-
tives went down the river to hunt with our men. In the
evening one of our interpreters and another Frenchman
who had gone with him to the Assiniboins for fur return-
ed. Thev had their faces so badlv frost bitten that the
skin came off, and their guide was so badly frozen that
they were obliged to leave him with the Assiniboins. —
This nation lives near the Rockv Mountains, and about
90 miles from fort Mandan, *

Monday 14. Some snow fell this morning. Six more
hunters went out to join those with the natives. In the
evening one of the hunters, that first went out, returned.
They had killed a buffalo, a wolf and two porcupines;
and one of the men had got his feet so badly frozen that
he was unable to come to the fort.

During the loth and 16th the weather was warm, and
the snow melted fast. Horses were sent for the lame
man, and he was brought to the fort; his feet were not so
bad as we had expected.

On the 17th it became cold; the wind blew hard from
the north, and it began to freeze.

Friday 18. Clear cold weather. Two of our hunters
returned, and had killed four deer, four wolves and a pra-
row. Two men belonging to the N. W. company, who
stay at the Grossventers village, came to the fort. They
say this animal which the French call a prarow, or bra-
row, is a species of the badger.

Saturday 19. Two men were sent with horses for

* It is presumed, no part of the grreat chain of Rocky Mountains
comes as near as 90 miles to fort Mandan; but it is not improbable
that there may be a mountain, connected with them, which runs a
considerable distance eastward along the great dividing ridge; and
on some maps a mountain is laid down running east and west,
Bouth of the Assiniboin river and lake, which would appear to be
not more than 90 or 100 miles from the Mandan villages.

68 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

meat, to the hunter's Camp, which is thirty miles down
the river.

Sunday 20. I went up with one of the men to the
villages. They treated us friendly and gave us victuals.
After we were done eating they presented a bowlful to a
buffalo head, saying ^^eat that.^^ Their superstitious cre-
dulity is so great, that they believe by using the head well
the living buffalo will come and that they will get a sup-
ply of meat.

Monday 21. A clear cold day. Our hunters return-
ed to the fort, and brought with them a three horse load of
venison and elk meat.

The weather on the 22nd and 23d, was warm, and we
commenced cutting the ice from about our craft, in order
to get them out of the river. The snow fell about three
inches deep.

Thursday 24. A cold day. Some of our hunters
went out, but killed nothing.

Friday 25. All hands were employed in cutting away
the ice, which we find a tedious business.

Saturday 2C. A pleasant day and all hands employed
in cuttinii wood, to make charcoal. We have a black-
smith with us, and a small set of blacksmith tools. The
blacksmith makes war-axes, and other axes to cut wood;
which are exchanged with the natives for corn, which is
of great service to us, as we could not bring much with
us.

On the 27th and 28th the weather became much more
settled, warm and pleasant than it had been for some
time.

Tuesday 29. We attempted another plan for getting
our water c*"aft disengaged from the ice: which was to
heat water in the boats, with hot stones; but in this pro-
ject we failed, as the stones we found would not stand
the fire, but broke to pieces.

Wednesday 30. I went up the river and found anoth-
er kind of stones, which broke in the same manner: so
our batteaux and periogues remained fast in the ice.

Thursday 31. Some snow fell last night. Five hun-
ters went out with two_horses. In the morning the wind

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 69

blew and was cold, towards the middle of the day the
weather became moderate, and the afternoon was plea-
sant.

Friday, February 1, 1805. A cold day. About 11
o'clock our hunters came home, but had killed nothing.
One of the men at the fort went out a short distance, and
killed a small deer. On the next day he went out and
killed another deer. This and the third were cold.

Monday 4. A fine day. Captain Clark and eighteen
more went down the river to hunt. We proceeded on 20
miles and could see no game.

Tuesday 5. We proceeded on to some Indian camps
and there we killed three deer. The next day we went
on to more Indian camps and killed some deer. On the
7th we encamped in a bottom on the south side of the
Missouri, and the next day turned out to hunt. We kill-
ed ten elk and eighteen deer, and remained there all
night. On the 9th we built a pen to secure our meat
from the wolves, which are very numerous here; and in
the evening went further down and encamped. The next
morning we set out on our return towards the fort; and
killed some elk and deer in our wav. On the 12th we
arrived at the fort; and found that one of our interpreter's
wives had in our absence made an addition to our num-
ber. On the 13th we had three horses shod to bring
home our meat.

Thursday 14. Four men set out early with the hor-
ses and sleds to bring home our meat; and had gone
down about 25 miles when a party of Indians (they did
not know of what nation) came upon them and robbed
them of their horses one of which they gave back, and
went off without doing the men any further injury. The
same night the men came back and gave information of
what had happened. At midnight Captain Lewis called
for twenty volunteers who immediately turned out. Hav-
ing made our arrangements, we set out early, accompani-
ed by some Indians; and having marched thirty miles
encamped in some Indian huts.

Saturday 16. We renewed our pursuit early, and had
a cold morning. Having proceeded twelve miles we dis-

70 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

covered fresh smoke arising at some old camps, whero
we had hid some meat hefore when Captain Clarke was
down; and therefore advanced with caution. Having ar-
rived at the place we found the savages were gone; had
destroyed our meat, burnt the huts and fled into the plains.
This morning the Indians, who had come down with us
and one of our men whose feet had been a little frozen,
returned home. We hunted the 17ih and 18th and got a
good deal of meat which we brought to a place where
some more had been secured. The 19th we loaded our
sleds very heavy, and fifteen men drew one and the horse
the other, which was a small one. On the next day we
arrived at the fort much fatigued.

Thursday 21. Some rain fell to-day, the first that has
fallen since November. In the evening the weather be-
came clear and pleasant.

Friday 22. Was a fine day and we again began to cut
away the ice, and succeeded in getting out one of the
periogucs.

Saturday 23. We had fine pleasant weather, and all
hands were engaged in cutting away the ice from the boat
and the other periogue. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon
we had the good fortune to get both free from the ice; and
in the three following days succeeded in getting them all
safe upon the bank. On the 27th we made preparations
for making periogucs to pursue our voyage in.

Thursday 28. Sixteen of us went up the river about
six miles, where we found and cut down trees for four
canoes. While we were absent an express arrived from
the Rickarees village with news that the Sioux had de-
clared war against us, and also against the Mandans and
Grossventers. They had boasted of the robbery of the
14th at the Rickarees village in their way home, and that
they intended to massacre the whole of us in the spring.
By this express we therefore found out that it was the
Sioux who had taken the horses from our men.

Friday, March 1, 1805. The same party encamped
out to make the canoes, and continued until six were
made.

On the 20th and 21st wo carried them to tho river

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 71

about a mile and an half distant: There I remained
with two men to finish them, and to take care of them,
until the 26ih, when some men came up from the fort,
and we put the canoes into the water. As the river had
risen there was some water between the ice and the shore.
We got three of them safe to the fort; but the ice break-
ing before the other three were got down, so filled the
channel, that we were obliged to carry them the rest of
the way by land. On the 27th we put one of the canoes
into the water to ascertain what weight they would carry.
We found they would not carry as much as was expected,
and Captain Lewis agreed to take a large periogue along.
The remainder of the month we were employed in pre-
paring our craft for renewal of our voyage.

Monday, April 1, 1805. As our large boat was to re-
turn immediately to St. Louis, the whole of our craft
was put into the water. A considerable quantity of rain
fell this day; the first of any consequence that had fallen
here for six months. The second was a fair day but
windy. On the 3d the weather was fine and pleasant.
Some boxes were made, in which it was intended to have
packed skins of different animals, which had been pro-
cured in the country, to be sent down in the batteaux.

Thursday 4. A fine clear day. We packed the box-
es full of skins, buffalo robes, and horns of the Mountain
ram, of a great size, for the president; and began to load
the boat.

Friday 5. This was a clear day and the wind blew
hard and cold from the N. W. We took all our goods,
stores and baggage out, divided and put them aboard our
craft, that we might be ready to continue our voyage.

If this brief Journal should happen to be preserved,
and be ever thought worthy of appearing in print: some
readers will perhaps expect, that, after our long friendly
intercourse with these Indians, among whom we have
spent the winter; our acquaintance with those nations
lower down the river and the information we received re-
lative to several other nations, we ought to be prepared
now, when we are about to renew our voyage, to give
some account of the fair sex of the Missouri ; and enter-

72 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

tain ihcm wiih narratives of feats of love as well as of
arms. Tliough we could furnish a sufficient number of
entertaining stories and pleasant anecdotes, we do not
think it prudent to swell our Journal with them; as our
views arc directed to more useful information. Besides,
as we are yet ignorant of the dangers, which may await
us, and the difficulty of escape, should certain probable
incidents occur, it may not be"' inconsistent with good
policy to keep the Journal of as small and portable a size
as circumstances will make practicable. It may be ob-
served generally that chastity is not very highly esteemed
by these people, and that the severe and loathsome effects
of certahi French principles are not uncommon among
them. The fact is, that the women are generally consi-
dered an article of traffic, and indulgence are sold at a
very moderate price. As a proof of this I will just men-
tion, that for an old tobacco box, one of our men was
granted the honor of passing a night with the daughter of
the head chief of the Mandan nation. An old bawd with
her punks, may also be found in some" of the villages on
the Missouri, as well as in the large cities of polished
nations.

CHAPTER VII.

Saturday 6. The day was clear and pleasant. This
day we heard that some of the Rickarees had come up to
the Mandan villages. Our interpreter and some of the
men were sent over to ascertain the truth of the report;
and we were detained all day waiting their return.

Sunday 7. The men returned and four of the Rick-
arees with them. The commanding officers held a con-
versation with these Indians, and they concluded that
some of them would go down in the boat from their vil-
lage to St. Louis. About 5 o'clock in the afternoon we
left fort Mandan in good spirits. Thirty-one men and a
"vroman went up the river and thirteen returned down it
in the boat. We had two periogues and six canoes, and

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 73

proceeded about four miles, and encamped opposite the
first Mandan village, on the north side.

Monday 8. We set out early and had a clear day.
The wind blew hard from the N. \V. At twelve the word
was passed from a canoe in the rear that it \vas sinking,
when we halted in front and Captain Clarke went back to
see what was the matter. This forenoon we passed two
villages of the Grossventers, or Big-Belley nation of In-
dians on the South side and a small river on the same
side called Cutteau or Knife-Eivcr. The canoe which
had been in distress, came up, and had received little
damage except wetting some powder on board. The
woman that is with us is a squaw of the Snake nation of
Indians, and wife of our interpreter. We expect she
will be of service to us, when passing through that nation.
In the afternoon we passed very high bluffs on the South
side; one of which had lately been a burning volcano.
The pumice stones lay very thick around it, and there
was a strong smell of Sulphur. * W^e came about four-
teen miles and encamped on the North side.

Tuesday 9. We set out early, and about 1 o'clock we
passed a party of Indians hunting: made about twenty-
two miles and encamped on the North side.

Wednesday 10. We proceeded again early, and had
rapid water and a great many sand-bars ; but a fine plea-
sant day. Having proceeded about nineteen miles we
encamped on the North side.

Thursday 11. We got underway early, had a fine
clear pleasant day, and went on very well. We saw
some Indians on the South side, but did not speak with
them. We came about twenty-one miles and encamped
on the North side.

Friday 12. Another fine day. We set out early as
usual. About eight we came to the mouth of the Little

* "Mr. Mackay informed me, that in passing over the mountains,
he observed several chasms in the earth that emitted heat and smoke,
which diffused a strong sulphureous stench." — Makenzie's Voyage.

These appearances were near the eastern side of the Rocky
Mountains where they were crossed by Mr. Mackenzie's party;
and in about lat. 56. North, and long. 120. West.

74 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

Missouri, a handsome small river that comes in on the
South side where we hahed and took breakfast. The
river is very properly called the Little Missouri, for it
exactly resembles the Missouri in color, current and laste.f
It was thought advisable to remain here the remainder of
the day, and air our loading. Some hunters went out and
killed a deer, and Captain Clarke killed a hare, which
was now changing its color from white to grey.

Saturday 13. We had a pleasant day and a fair wind ;
but our small canoes could not bear the sail. Some of
the pnrty caught some beaver, and some Frenchman who
were out trapping caught saven of them. We passed a
large creek on the South side, called Onion Creek. We
came 23 miles and encamped on the North side, where
we found a wild goose nest on a tree about 60 feet high.
One of the men climbed the tree and found one egg in
the nest.

Sunday 14. We started early as usual, and had a fine
morning. As we were setting out a black dog came to us,
and went along, supposed to have belonged to a band of
the Assiniboins, who had been encamped near this place
a few days ago. We passed a hill resembling a large
haystack, all but about ten feet of the top which was as
whit3 as chalk. The hills in general arc much higher
here than lower down the river; but the bottoms much the
same. In the afternoon we passed a creek, called after
our interpreter, Sharbons Creek. He had been, before,
this far up the Missouri, and no white man any further,
that we could discover. We made 16 miles and encamp-
ed in a handsome bottom on the North side.

Monday 15. We had a pleasant day and a fair wind;
set forward early as usual, and went on very well. Pass-
ed a large Creek on the North side, called Goat-Pen
Creek. We saw a number of buffalo and two bears on
the bank of the river. After going 23 miles we encamp-
ed on the South side.

Tuesday 16. We had a clear pleasant day; and in

t The maps of Louisiana place tlie Mandan villaj^es west of the
little Missouri; whereas it is ascertained by this expedition to be 92
miles higher up the Missouri than the Mandans.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 7S

the early part of it, a fair gentle wind. Captain Clarke
went out and killed a Cabre or Antelope, the same kind of
an animal, which we before called a goat. The wind
became flawy and the sailing bad. After making eighteen
miles we encamped on the South side in a point of woods
called the Grand Point.

Wednesday 17. We proceeded on early as usual with
a fair wind. The day was fine and we made good way.
Passed a beautiful plain and two large Creeks on the
North side, and another creek on the South. We saw
a great many buffalo and elk on the banks. At 1 o'clock
we halted for dinner, when two men went out and in a few
minutes killed two buffalo. We made 26 miles and en-
camped on the South side, and found that some rain had
fallen during the day, where we encamped, though there
was none where we had been.

Thursday 18. The men caught some beaver, and
killed a wild goose. The morning was fine and we went
on very well until 1 o'clock, when the wind blew so hard
down the river, we were obliged to lie to for three hours,
after which we continued our voyage. This day Captain
Clarke went by land and met us in the afternoon on the
bank with an elk and a deer. We came about 14 miles
and encamped in a good harbor on the North side, on ac-
count of the wind, which blew very hard all night accom-
panied by some drops of rain.

Friday 19. A cloudy morning, with high wind. We
did not set out until the next day. While we lay here, I
went out to the hills, which I found very high, much wash-
ed by the rain, and without grass. I saw a part of a log
quite petrified, and of which good whetstones, or hones
could be made. I also saw where a hill had been on fire,
and pumice stones around it. There is a great quantity of
hysop in the vallies. We killed an elk and some wild
geese, and caught some beaver.

Saturday 20. We set out again and had a cold disa-
greeable morning; rapid water and a strong wind. Some
of the canoes took in a good deal of water; and we made
but six miles, when we were obliged again to lie too, on
account of the wind, and to dry our loading. While we

76 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

lay here we killed three elk and got a number of Geese
eggs out of their nests, which are generally built on trees.
Sunday 21. We proceeded on early; and had a fine
clear morning, but cold; there was a sharp frost. We
saw a great number of elk, buffalo and deer on both
sides of the river. About twelve the wind again rose and
was disagreeable, but we continued our voyage. Two of
our hunters went out this afternoon and caught three
young buffalo calves. We passed a small river called
White Clay river on the North side and having gone 15
miles encamped on the South side.

Monday 22. Before day light we continued our voy-
age; passed a beautiful bottom on the North side, cover-
ed with game of different kinds. The wind was unfavor-
able to day, and the river here is very crooked. We
came about 14 miles, then encamped on the South side
and caught some beaver.

Tuesday 23. We set out early and had a fine day;
but the wind was ahead and we were obliged to lie too
about three hours. We went 15 miles and encamped on
the North side. Captain Clarke killed three blacktailed
deer and a bufTalo calf.

Wednesday 24. This was a clear day, but the wind
blew so hard down the river we could not proceed. —
While we lay here some of the men went to see some
water at a distance which appeared like a river or small
lake. In the afternoon they returned, and had found it
only the water of the Missouri, which had run up a bot-
tom. One of the men caught six young wolves and
brought them in, and the other men killed some elk and
deer.

Thursday 25. We set out as usual and had a fine
day; but about eleven were obliged to halt again, the wind
was so strong ahead. Captain Lewis and four men set
off by land from this place to go to the river Jaune, or
Yellow Stone river, which it is believed is not very dis-
tant. I remarked, as a singular circumstance, that there
is no dew in this country, and very little rain. Can it be
owing to the want of timber? At 5 o'clock in the after-

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. TT

noon, we renewed our voyage; and having this day ad-
vanced about 13 miles, encamped on the South side.

Friday 26. A fine day. We set out early, and hav-
ing proceeded 10 miles came at 12 o'clock to the mouth
of the Jaune and halted: Captain Lewis and his party
had not arrived. I went up the point about nine miles,
where there are the most beautiful rich plains I ever be-
held. I saw a large pond or lake. Captain Clarke while
I was absent measured both rivers; and found the breadth
of the Missouri to be 337 yards of water, and 190 of a
sand beach; total 527 yards. That of the Yellow Stone
river 297 yards of water and 561 of sand; total 858 yards.
The mouth of this river is 1888 miles from the mouth of
the Missouri; 278 from Fort Mandan and 186 from the
mouth of Little Missouri.

The river Jaune is shallow, and Missouri deep and ra-
pid. In the evening Captain Lewis with his party joined
us; and had brought with them a buffalo calf, which fol-
lowed them seven or eight miles. We killed a number
of calves, and found they made very good veal. There
are a great many signs of beaver in this part of the coun-
try. We encamped on the point all night.

Saturday 27. About 9 o'clock in the forenoon we re-
newed our voyage. The day was fine, but on account of
a strong wind we were obliged at one to halt, till four,
when we again went on; and having this day made eight
miles, encamped on the North side.

Sunday 28. We set out early, had a fine day and went
on very well. About nine we halted for breakfast under
very high bluffs on the North side. About 15 miles above
the Yellow Stone river, the banks on the Missouri are not
so high as below it, and the sand bars are more in the
middle of the river. We came 24 miles and encamped
on the North side in a handsome bottom. The bottoms
here are not so large, and have less timber on them than
those below the Jaune.

]\Ionday 29. W^e again set out early, had a clear
morning and went on at a good rate. This forenoon we

78 Journal of lewis and clarke

passed some of the liighest blulTs I had ever seen; and on
the lop of the highest we saw some Mountain sheep,
which the natives say are common about the Rocky
Mountains. These were the first we had seen, and we
attempted to kill some of them but did not succeed. Cap-
tain Lewis, and one of the men, travelled some distance
by land and killed a white bear. The natives call them
white, but they are more of a brown grey. They are
longer than the common black bear, and have much
larger feet and talons. We went 25 miles and encamjjed
on the bank of a small river, which comes in on the
North side about 70 yards wide.

Tuesday 30. We embarked at sunrise; had a fine
morning and went on very well. We passed through a
handsome Country, with a rich soil, and the prairies rising
beautifully on both sides of the river. We went 24
miles and encamped on the North side. Captain Lewis
killed a laro;c elk here.

CHAPTER Yin.

Wednesday, May 1, 1805. We set out early in a
cool morning; and went on till 12 o'clock, when the wind
rose so high, that our small canoes could not stand the
waves. We made onlv ten miles this day.

Thursday 2. At daybreak it began to snow; and the
wind continued so high, we could not proceed until the
afternoon. While we lav here our hunters went out and
killed some buffalo and deer. They found some red
cloth at an old Indian camp, which Ave suppose had been
offered and Ic^ft as a sacrifice; the Indians having some
knowledge of a supreme being and this their mode of
worship. The snow did not fall more than an inch deep.
At four we set out, went six miles, and encamped on the
North side in a beautiful bottom.

Friday 3. We proceeded on our voyage this morn-
ing, though very cold and disagreeable, and a severe frost.
The snow and green grass on the prairie exhibited an ap-

80 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

peanince somcvvliat uncommon. The couon wood leaves
are as large as dollars, noiwiihstanding the snow and such
hard frost. We passed a small river on the north sido
called the 2000 mile river. About a mile above we pass-
ed a large creek on the South side, called Porcupine
Creek. We came this day about 20 miles and encamped
on the North side.

Saturday 4. This day was more pleasant: in the fore-
noon we passed a creek on the South side, about 40 yards
wide. The river has been more straight for two or three
days than it was before; the bottoms larger and more
timber on them. We went about eighteen miles and en-
camped on the north side. One of the men became sick
this morning and has remained so all day.

Sunday 5. The morning was fine with some white
frost. During this day the country appeared beautiful
on both sides of the river. We went sixteen miles and
encamped on the North side. The sick man has be-
come better. Here we killed a very large brown bear,
which measured three feet five inches round the head ;
three feet eleven inches round the neck; round the breast
five feet ten and a half inches; the length eight feet sev-
en and a half inches; round the middle of the fore leg
twenty-three inches ; and his talons four inches and three
eights of an inch.

Monday 6. We set sail with a fair wind and plea-
sant weather. At twelve a few drops of rain fell, but it
soon cleared up. We passed a river on the South sido
about 200 yards wide; but the water of this river sinks
in the sand on the side of the Missouri. We went twen-
ty-six miles and encamped on the South side.

Tuesday 7. We again set out early and went on very
well till twelve when it began to blow hard, and being all
under sail one of our canoes turned over. Fortunately
the accident happened near the shore ; and after halting
three hours we were able to go on again. Having lliis
day made sixteen miles we encamped on the South side.

Wednesday 8. We were again very early under way
in a cloudy morning; about twelve some rain fell: at two
we passed a handsome river on the North side about 200

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 81

yards wide called Milk River. There is a good deal of
water in this river which is clear, and its banks beau-
tiful. Our distance this day was about twenty-seven
miles, and we encamped in a beautiful bottom on the
South side.

Thursday 9. We proceeded on early and had a fine
day. The country on both sides begins to be more bro-
ken, and the river more crooked. At one, we passed a
creek on the South side, and having made about 25 miles
we encamped at the mouth of a creek on the North side,
called by the name of Warner's Creek.

Friday 10. We set out early in a fair morning; but
having gone five miles were obliged to halt and lie by
during the day, on account of hard wind. Some small
showers of rain occasionally fell. Here we killed some
deer and buffalo and took some beaver.

Saturday 11. The morning was fine, we started at
the usual hour: at one passed a small creek on the South
side. This day we saw several gangs of buffalo, and
other game in plenty. One of the men killed another
large brown bear, about the size of the one lately killed.
We came seventeen miles and encamped on the South
side.

Sunday 12. We early renewed our voyage and had
a pleasant morning; passed some hills on the North side,
covered with pine and cedar, the first timber of any kind
we have seen on the hills for a long time. At one we
halted for dinner and a violent storm of wind then arose,
which continued until nisjlit when some rain fell. Our
distance this day only 13^ miles.

Monday 13. The weather continued stormy, and
some few drops of rain fell. At one P. M. we embarked,
passed three creeks, one on the North side and two on the
South; went seven miles, and encamped in a large
bottom.

Tuesday 14. There was some white frost in the
mornmg, we proceeded on early; passed black hills close
to the river on the South side and some covered with pine
timber at a distance. About twelve the day became warm.
Banks of snow were seen lying on the hills on the North

6

82 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

side. This forenoon we passed a larg3 creek on the North
side and a small river on the South. About four in the
afternoon we passed another small river on the South
side near the mouth of which some of the men discover-
ed a large brown bear, and six of them went out to kill it.
They fired at it; but havirjg only wound, d it, it made bat-
tle and was near seizing some of them, but they all for-
tunately escaped, and at length succeeded in dispatching
it. These bears are very bold and ferocious; and very
large and powerful. The natives say they have killed a
number of their brave men. The pericgues having gone
ahead, while the people belongiiig to the canoes were
dressing the b:ar, a sudden gust of wind arose, which
overset one of the pericgues before the sail could be got
down. The men who had been on board, turned it again
and got it to shore, full of water. It was immediately
unleaded and the cargo opened, when we found a great
part of the medicine, and other articles spoiled. Here
we encamped, having come today 18| miles.

Wednesday 15. Wc remained here all day to dry
our baggage that had got wet. It was cloudy and unfa-
vorable for the purpose, and some rain fell.

Thursday 10. This was a fine day, and by 4 o'clock
in the afternoon we had all our articles dry and on board
again. At that time we proceeded on our voyage; pass-
ed high barren hills on both sides of the river, with only
a few pine trees on them. We advanced seven miles and
encamped in a handsome bottom on the South side where
there are a numb >r of old Indian huts.

Friday 1 7. The morning was fine and we embarked
early. The hills here come very close to the river on
both sides, and have very little timber on them. They
are very high and much washed. There are some of
them, which at a distance resemble ancient steeples. We
passed two rivers, one on each side. During the wholo
of this day's voyage the Missouri was very handsome,
and about 300 yards wide. We made 20| miles and en-
camped on the South sidt\

Saturday 18. A cloudy morning. We proceeded as
usual. The country much the same as yesterday; until

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 83

about 12 o'clock, when the bottoms became more exten-
sive on both sides of the river. There is still a small
quantity of pine timber on the hills. We had some
showers of rain in the forenoon ; hail in the afternoon;
and a fine clear evening. We went nineteen miles and
encamped on the South side opposite an island.

Sunday 19. The morning was foggy and there was
some dew. The river is handsome and the country
mountainous. We made 20^ miles and encamped on the
North side in a small bottom.

Monday 20. We set sail early and had a fine morn-
ing. Passed a creek on the south side and about eleven
came to the mouth of the Muscle-shell River, a handsome
river that comes in on the South side. The water of the
Missouri is becoming more clear. We here spent the
remainder of the day, having come seven miles. Cap-
tain Lewis had an observation here, which gave 47°. 00.
24. North latitude: and Captain Clarke measured the
rivers. The Missouri here is 222 yards wide, and the
Muscle-shell 110 yards. The water of the latter is of a
pale color, and the current is not rapid; its mouth is 660
miles above Fort Mandans.

Tuesday 21. W^e proceeded on early and had a fine
mornmg; towards the middle of the day the wind blew
hard; but we went on very well for 20 miles, and en-
camped on a sand-beach on the North side.

Wednesday 22. A cloudy morning. The wind blew
so hard this morning, we did not get under way until 9
o'clock. The forenoon was cold and disagreeable, but
the afternoon became more pleasant. We killed a brown
bear and some other game on our way. Having gone
16^ miles we encamped on the North side.

Thursday 23. The morning was clear with a white
frost, and ice as thick as window glass. We passed two
creeks, one on each side of the river: and two Islands,
which are not common. There are very few between
these and Fort Mandans, not more than six or eight. In
the evening we killed a large bear in the river; but he

84 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

sunk and wc did not get him.* We went 285 miles and
encamped.

Friday 24. There was again some white frost this
morning. We embarked early; passed a large creek on
the North side and a beautiful Island close on the South-
ern shore. At the head of the Island, came in another
creek on the South side. The bottom of the river, and
sand-bars have become much more gravelly than we
found them at any place lower down. The water is high,
rapid and more clear. At dinner time a party was sent
out to bring the meat of some animals that had been kill-
ed at a distance. Here we left two canoes to wait for
them and proceeded on. We passed a creek on the
North side, and having made 24^: miles encamped on the
South side. The hills are near, on both sides of the
river, and very high.

Saturday 25. We waited here in the morning until
the canoes came up ; and about seven proceeded on our
voyage. The forenoon was pleasant. We passed two
creeks opposite to each other on the opposite sides of the
river. About twelve we passed a bottom on the North
side with one solitary tree on it, upon which there was
an eagle's nest. The bottoms here are very small. As
we went on this afternoon, some of the party killed three
of what the French and natives call mountain sheep; but
they very little resemble sheep, except in the head, horns
and feet. They are of a dun color except on the belly
and round the rump, where they are white. The horns
of the male are very large; those of the female small.
They have a fine soft hair. Captain Clarke calls them
the Ibex, and says they resemble that animal more than
any other. They are in size somewhat larger than a
deer. The hills here are very high and steep. One of
our men in an attempt to climb one had his shoulder dis-
located ; it was however replaced without much difficulty.
These hills are very much washed in general: they
appear like great heaps of clay, washing away with
every shower; with scarcely any herbs or grass on any

* It is said that bears, beavers, otters and such animals will sink
unless shot dead.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 85

of them. This evening we passed an island all prairie
except a few trees on the upper end of it. We went 18
miles and encamped on the South side.

Sunday 26. We set out early in a fine morning, and
passed through a desert country ; in which there is no
timber on any part, except a few scattered pines on the
hills. We saw few animals of any kind, but the Ibex or
mountain sheep. One of our men killed a male, which
had horns two feet long, and four inches diameter at the
root. * We passed two creeks this forenoon on the North

* "The Ibex resembles the goat in the shape of its body; but
differs in the horns which are much larger. They are bent back-
wards, full of knots; and it is generally asserted that there is a knot
added every year. There are some of these found if we may
believe Bellonius, at least two yards long. The Ibex has a large
black beard, is of a brown color, with a thick woven coat of hair.
There is a streak of black runs along the top of the back; and the
belly and back of the thighs are of a fawn color. It is a native of
the Alps, the Pyrenees, and mountains of Greece; extremely swift
and capable of running with ease along the edges of precipices,
where even the Wolf or the Fox, though instigated by hunger,
dares not pursue it." Goldsmith.

Such is the description given of the Ibex; but which to us does
not appear to suit the animal found about the Rocky Mountains
called the mountain Ram. From what we have before heard of
that animal, and from Mr. Gass's verbal description, we are led to
believe, that it much more nearly resembles the wild sheep, called
the Mufflon or IMusmon, to be found in the uncultivated parts of
Greece, Sardinia, Corsica and in the desart of Tartary; and which
is thought to be the primitive race and the real sheep in its wild and
savage state. Perhaps it may be found to be exactly the same; of
which we find the following description.

"The ?(IufEon, or Musmon, thougli covered with hair, bears a
stronger similitude to the Ram than to any other animal; like the
Ram it has the eyes placed near the horns; and its ears are shorter
than those of the Goat: it also resembles the Ram in its horns, and
in all the particular contours of its form. The horns also are alike;
they are of a white or yellow color; they have three sides as in the
Ram, and bend backwards in the same manner behind the ears. —
The muzzle and inside of the ears are of a whitish color tinctured
with yellow; the other parts of the face are of a brownish grey.
The general color of the hair over the body is of a brown, approach-
ing to that of the red deer. The inside of the thighs and belly are
of a white, tinctured with yellow. The form upon the whole seems
more made for agility and strength than ihat of the common sheep;
and the Mufflon is actually found to live in a savage state, and main-

8G JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

side; and in the evening one of ihe men killed a buffalo.
At dark we came to largo rapids, where we had to unite
ihe crews of two or three canoes, to force them through.
It was sometime after night before we could encamp. —
We at lengih, after having gone 21 miles encamped on
the South side in a small grove of timber; the first we
had seen during the day.

Monday 27. We have now got into a country which
presents little to our view, but scenes of barrenness and
desolation; and see no encouraging prospects that it will
terminate. Having proceeded (by the course of this
river) about two thousand three hundred miles, it may
therefore not be improper to make two or three general
observations respecting the country we have passed.

From the mouth of the Missouri to that of the river
Platte, a distance of more than six hundred miles, the
land is generally of a good quality, with a sufficient quan-
tity of timber; in many places very rich, and the country
pleasant and beautiful.

From the confluence of the river Platte with the Mis-
souri to the Sterile desert, we lately entered, a distance of
upwards of fifteen hundred miles the soil is less rich, and
except in the bottoms, the land of an inferior quality;
but may in general be called good second rate land. The
country is rather hillv than level, thouo;h not mountain-
ous, rocky or stony. The hills in their unsheltered state
are much exposed to be washed by heavy rains. This
kind of country and soil which has fallen under our
observation in our progress up the Missouri, extends it is
understood, to a great distance on both sides of the river.
Along the Missouri and the waters which flow into it,
cotton wool and willows are frequent in the bot-
toms and islands; but the upland is almost entirely with-

tain itself cither by force or swiftness against all the animals that
live by rapine. Such is its extreme speed that many have been
inclined rather to rank it among the deer kind, than the sheej. —
But in this they are deceived, as the Musmon has a mark that
entirely distinguishes it from that species, being known never to
shed its horns. In some these are seen to grow to a surprising size;
many of them raca-suring, in their convolutions, above two ells
long " Goldsjiiith

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 87

out limber, and consists of large prairies or plains the
boundaries of which the eye cannot reach. The grass
is generally short on these immense natural pastures,
which in the proper seasons are decorated with blossoms
and flowers of various colors. The views from the hills
are interesting and grand. Wide extended plains with
their hills and vales, stretching away in lessening wavy
ridges, until by their distance ihcy fade from the sight;
large rivers and streams in their rapid course, winding in
various meanders; groves of cotton wood and willow
along the waters intersecting the landscapes in different
directions, dividing them into various forms, at length
appearing like dark clouds and sinking in the horizon;
these enlivened with the buffalo, elk, deer, and other
animals which in vast numbers feed upon the plains or
pursue their prey, are the prominent objects, which com-
pose the extensive prospects presented to the view and
strike the attention of the beholder.

The islands in the Missouri are of various sizes; in
general not large, and during high water mostly over-
flowed.

There are Indian paths along the Missouri and some in
other parts of the country. Those along that river do
not generally follow its windirgs but cut off points of
land and pursue a direct course. Thjre are also roads
and paths made by the buffalo and other animals; some
of the buffalo roads are at least ten feet wide. We did
not embark this morning until 8 o'clock. The day was
fine, but the wind ahead. We had difficult v/ater, and
passed through the most dismal country I ever beheld;
nothing but barren mountains on both sides of the river,
as far as our view could extend. The bed of the river
is rocky, and also the banks and hills in some places; but
these are chiefly of earth. We went thirteen miles and
encamped in a bottom, just large enough for the' purpose,
and made out to get enough of driftwood to cook with.

Tuesday 28. We set sail early, had a fine morning,
and proceeded on through this desert country until about
4 o'clock P. M. when we came to a more pleasant part.
We made twenty-one miles and encamped on the North
side.

88 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

Wednesday 29. Wc proceeded on early and had a
fine morning: passed two rivers, one on each side. At
twelve it became cloudy and began to rain. We went
about eighteen miles and halted at a handsome grove of
timber on the South side. It rained a little all the after-
noon. Some of the men went out to hunt and killed an
elk. Last night about 12 o'clock a buffalo swimming the
river happened to land at one of the periogues, crossed
over it and broke two guns, but not so as to render them
useless. He then went strait on through the men where
they were sleeping, but hurt none of them. As we came
along to day we passed a place where the Indians had
driven above an hundred head of buffalo down a preci-
pice and killed them.

Thursday 30. The forenoon was cloudy, with some
rain. We did not set out till late in the day. The hills
came in close on the river again, but are not so high.
Some of them are as black as coal and some white as
chalk. We see a great many fresh Indian tracks or signs
as we pass alorg. It rained a little all day; we went on
slow and encamped early on the North side, in a small
bottom with some cotton wood, having proceeded on eight
miles. There are no pines to be seen on the hills.

Friday 31. We embarked early in a cloudy morning;
passed through a mountainous country, but the game is
more plenty, and we killed some buffalo in our way.
About 1 1 o'clock it began to rain slowly, and continued
raining two hours, when it cleared up. We passed some
very curious cliffs and rocky peaks, in a long range. —
Some of them 200 feet high and not more than 8 feet thick.

They seem as if built by the hand of man, and are so
numerous that they appear like the ruins of an ancient
city. We went 17^ miles and encamped at the mouth of
a handsome creek on the North side.

Saturday, Jur.e 1, 1805. We embarked early. The
morning was cloudy, but without rain. We passed
through a more handsome country, than for some days
past. It appears more level and there are some good
bottoms on both sides of the river, but not large; also a
number of beautiful small islands covered with cotton

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 89

wood. We saw a number of mountain sheep. Yester-
day our men killed three of them, that had remarkable
large horns ; one pair weighed 25 pounds. We passed a
small river on the North side about 1 1 o'clock. The
water is not so rapid to day as usual, but continues high.
In the afternoon we passed a creek about 30 yards wide,
and several small islands. We went 24 miles and
encamped on a small island.

Sunday 2. We embarked early in a fme morning.
The hills come close on the river, but are not so high
nor so broken, as we found them a short distance lower
down. This forenoon we passed two creeks, one on
each side, and several islands covered whh cotton wood;
but there is not a stick of timber to be seen any where
upon the hills. Some of the hunters killed a brown
bear in a small bottom on the south side, and having
come 18 miles we encamped just above the bottom on the
same side, at the mouth ol a large river.

Monday 3. We crossed over to the point between
the two rivers and encamped there. The commanding
officers could not determine which of these rivers or
branches, it was proper to take; and therefore concluded
to send a small party up each of them. Myself and
two men went up the South branch, and a serjeant and
two more up the North. The parties went up the two
branches about 15 miles. We found the South branch
rapid with a great many islands and the general course
South West. The other party reported the North branch
as less rapid, and not so deep as the other. The North
branch is 186 yards v/ide and the South 372 yards. The
water of the South branch is clear, and that of the North
muddy. About a mile and a half up the point from
the confluence, a handsome small river falls into the
North branch, called Rose river. Its water is muddy,
and the current rapid. Captain Lewis took a meridian
altitude at the point, which gave 47^. 24. 12. North lati-
tude. Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke were not yet
satisfied with respect to the proper river to ascend.

Tuesday 4. Captain Lewis with six men went up the
North branch, to see if they could find any certain marks

90 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

to determine whether that was the Missouri or not; and
Captain Clarke myself and four others went up the South
branch, for the same purj)oso with regard to that branch.
About eight miles above the confluence, the South branch
and the small river which falls into the North branch,
are not more than 200 yards apart. Near this place and
close on the bank of the South branch is a beautiful
spring where we refreshed ourselves with a good drink
of grog; and proceeded on through the high plains.
Here nothing grows but prickly pears, which are in abun-
dance, and some short grass. We went on about thirty
miles and found the river still extending in a South West
direction. We saw a mountain to the South about 20
miles off, which appeared to run East and West, and
some spots on it resembling snow. In the evening we
went towards the river to encamp, whore one of the men
having got down to a small point of woods on the bank,
before the rest of the party, was attacked by a huge he
bear, and his gun missed fire. We were about 200 yards
from him, but the bank there was so steep we could not
get down to his assistance: we, however, fired at the ani-
mal from the place where we stood and he went off with-
out injuring the man. Having got down we all encamp-
ed in an old Indian lodge for the night.

Wednesday 5. Some slight showers of rain fell in
the night, and the morning was cloudy. When prepar-
ing to set out wc discovered three bears coming up the
river towards us; we therefore halted awhile and killed
the whole of them. About seven we set out along the
plains again, and discovered the mountain South of us
covered with snow, that had fallen last night. W hen we
had gone about 1 1 miles wc saw a large mountain to the
West of us also covered with snow. This mountain ap-
l)eared to run from North to South, and to be very high.
The b:.'aring of the river is still South West. Captain
Clarke thought this a good course for us to proceed on our
voyage, and we turned back towards the camp again.
We went about 15 miles and struck the small river about
20 miles from its mouth. Here wc killed some elk and
deer and encamped all night. There is a great deal of

92 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

timber in the bottoms of iliis little river, and plenty of
ditForcnt kinds of game. In those bottoms 1 saw the
stalks t)f a j)lant resembling flax in every particular.

Thursday 6. We proceeded down the small river
and killed some deer. About 1 o'clock we went on the
plains again, which we kept on till we came to the point
in the evening. Captain Lewis and his party had not
returned. Some light rain fell this afternoon.

Friday 7. It rained all day: Captain Lewis and parly
did not return.

Saturday 8. A fine cool morning. About 10 o'clock
A. M. the water of the South river, or branch, became
almost of the color of claret, and remained so all day.
The water of the other branch has the appearance of
milk when contrasted with the water of this branch in its
present state. About four in the afternoon Captain
Lewis and his party came to camp. They had been up
the North branch about 60 miles, and found it navigable
that distance; not so full of islands as the other branch
and a greater quantity of timber near, it and j)lcnty of
game, which is not the case on the South branch. Its
bearing something north of west a considerable distance,
and then to the south of west. The party while out kill-
ed eighteen deer and some elk. From the appearance of
the river where they left it to return, ihcy supposed it
micht be navio;able a considerable distance further. —
They saw no mountains ahead, but one off towards the
north: it was not covered with snow like those we had
seen. Both these rivers abound in fish ; and we caught
some of dilforcnt kinds, but not large. About 5 o'clock
in the afternoon the weather became cloudy and cold,
and it began to rain. The officers concluded that the
South branch was the most proper to ascend, which they
think is the Missouri. The other they called Maria's
river. At dark the rain ceased.

Sunday 9. A line morning. It was thought advisa-
ble to leave the large pcriogue here and part of the stores
and baggage, and some of the men were engaged in dig-
ging a case to bury them in. The water of the Missouri
changed this morning to its former color. The day was

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 93

fine, but tlie wind blew hard from the northwest. One of
the men killed an excellent fat buffalo. There is a quan-
tity of goose-berry and choak-cherry bushes on the point,
and also some rabbit berries.

Monday 10. We hauled our large perioguc on an
island in the mouth of Maria's river and covered it over
with brush. We then began to examine and assort our
effects to see what would be the least wanted and most
proper to leave; but about two it began to rain and blow
so hard, we were obliged to desist. The rain continued
only an hour, and in the evening we loaded the rest of
the craft, and left the remainder of our stores and bag-
gage to be hurried, consisting of corn, pork, flour, some
powder and lead, and other articles amounting to about
one thousand pounds weight.

Tuesday 11. A fine day. Captain Lewis and four
men set out this morning to go to the mountains, which
we had discovered towards the west. The rest of the
party were engaged in hurrying the baggage and goods
which had been left, and preparing to start the following
morning.

CHAPTER IX.

Wednesday 12. The morning was fine; we set out
from the mouth of Maria's river, and went on very well.
In the forenoon we passed twelve islands. At 1 o'clock
the weather became cloudy and threatened rain; at two
there was a light shower, and the day became clear. We
passed three islands this afternoon and some handsome
bluffs on both sides of the river. We went 1 8 miles and
encamped in a small bottom on the North side, where we
killed two elk and some deer.

Thursday 13. We set out early in a fine morning,
Some dew fell last night. We passed a large creek on
the South side, called Snow creek. The water of the
river is very clear and the current very rapid. We pass-

94 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

ed a number of islands covered with limber; but there is
none to be seen on the hills on either side. We went
14 miles and encamped on the South side.

Friday 14. We embarked early, and the morning
was pleasant. About 7 o'clock A. M. we passed a place
where Captain Lewis and his men had killed two bears,
and had left a note directins; us where to find them.
About two, one of Captain Lewis' men met us, and
informed us that the falls were about 20 miles above;
and that Captain Lewis and the other three men, were
gone on to examine what the distance was above the falls,
before we could take water again. We went ten miles
and encamped on a small bottom on the South side.

Saturday 15. W^e proceeded on as usual, but had the
most rapid water, I ever saw any craft taken through.
At noon we stopped at the mouth of a creek on the South
side, called Strawberry creek, a handsome rapid stream,
but not large. On a point above, there is a great quanti-
ty of Strawberry, gooseberry and choak-cherry bushes;
and there appears to be a good deal of small cotton-wood
on the banks of this creek. In the afternoon we passed
red bluffs on both sides of the river, .and at night came to
a large rapid which we did not venture to pass so late;
and therefore encamped below on the North side, after
going 12 miles.

Sunday 16. In the morning all hands were engaged
in taking the canoes over the rapid about a mile in length,
which having accomplished they returned and took up the
pcriogue, where we halted to examine another great rapid
close ahead. One man had been sent on last night to
Captain Lewis, to find out what discoveries he had made.
We remained here some lime, and a few of the men
went out to hunt. About noon Captain Lewis and the
party with him joined us, and the hunters came in. Cap-
tain Lewis had been up to the falls, 15 miles above the
first shoot or pitch, and found the falls continue all that
distance, in which there were five different shoots, 40 or
50 feet perpendicular each, and very rapid water between
them. As we found the South side the best to carry our
canoes up, we crossed over and unloaded our craft. W*

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 95

then had to take the empty canoes to the side we had left,
and to tow them up by a line about a mile, in order to get
them up to the mouth of a small river on the South side,
as a more convenient place to take them up the bank.
This business was attended with great difficulty as well
as danger, but we succeeded in getting them all over safe.

Monday 17. Part of the men were employed in
taking the canoes up the small river about a mile and a
half; and some engaged in making small wagons to
haul the canoes and loading above the falls. Captain
Clarke and four men went out to view and survey our
road to the place where we were to embark above the
falls. Opposite the mouth of the small river, a beauti-
ful sulphur spring rises out of the bank, of as strong
sulphur water as 1 have ever seen. On the bottoms of
this small river and also on the Missouri is a great quan-
tity of flax growing, and at this time in bloom. Two men
went out this morning to hunt for elk, in order to get
their skins for covering to the iron frame of a boat we
had with us. In the evening the men got the canoes to a
proper place to take them upon land.

Tuesday 18. The periogue was hauled out of the
water and laid safe; and some men went to dig a place
for deposhing more of our baggage. About twelve the
two hunters came in, and could tind no elk, but killed 10
deer. In the evening we completed our wagons, which
were made altogether of wood, and of a very ordinary
quality; but it is expected they will answer the purpose.

Wednesday 19. A fine day, but the wind very high.
Three hunters set out for Medicine River, a large river
above the falls, which comes in on the north side, to
hunt for elk. We finished the burying place, so that we
will be ready to start as soon as Captain Clarke returns.
All our people are making moccasons to go through t he
"prairie.

Thursday 20. A cloudy morning: four hunters went
out to kill some fat buffalo. About 4 o'clock one of them
came in for men to carry the meat to camp; as they had
14 down ready to butcher. We went out about a mile
and a half, and brought in a load, leaving three men to

96 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

dress the rest. Captain Clarke and his party returned,
having found a tolerable good road exce})! where some
draughts crossed it. They had left their blankets and
provision at the place where they expect we will again
embark.

Friday 21. This morning was also fine, but there
was a high wind. The remainder of the meat was
brought in, and one of the men killed two deer.

Saturday 22. All hands, except two and the interpre-
ter and his wife, set out through the prairie with one
canoe on a wagon loaded heavy with baggage. We
went on slowly as our axletrees were weak; and about
12 o'clock one of them broke; when we had to halt and
put in a new one. This accident happened at a draught
where there was some willow, and we put in an axletree
of that; which I believe is the best this country affords
for the purpose. It was late in the evening before we
got to the intended place of embarkation on the river.

Sunday 23. The morning was cloudy. When I
awoke this morninsf I found a material difference between
the river and country here and below the falls. Here
the river is wide and the current gentle. There are three
small islands at this place and some timber on the banks,
but not much, and what is there is cotton-wood and
willow. The banks are very low, and the country rising
in plains a considerable distance on both sides of the
river; and far off moimtains covered with snow on both
sides and ahead. Two of the men and myself remained
with Captain Lewis here to assist him in putting together
his iron boat, the rest went back for another load. The
iron boat-frame is to be covered with skins and requires
a quantity of thin shaved strips of wood for lining. In
the forenoon we put the frame together, which is 36
feet long, 4^ wide, and two feet two inches deep. In the
afternoon Captain Lewis and one of the men went down
to Medicine River, which is about two miles distant; to
see whether the three men sent there to hunt had procur-
ed any elk skins. In the evening they found one of the
hunters, and encamped with him all night.

Monday 24. In the morning Captain Lewis came up

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 97

to our camp. We found it very difficult to procure stuff
for the boat. The two men which Captain Lewis had
left in the morning came to our camp in the afternoon,
but had seen nothing of the other two hunters. In the
evening there was a very heavy shower of rain; at night
the weather cleared up, and the men arrived with two
more canoes. The two hunters which Captain Lewis
could not find, had killed some buffalo below the mouth
of the Medicine river, where one remained, and the other
had gone across to the camp below the falls again, but
had found no elk.

Tuesday 25. A cloudy morning. The men went
back for more canoes and baggage; and one went down
to the hunter's camp below Medicine river to bring him
up in a canoe. Another went up the river to look for
elk. When he had gone about three miles, he was
attacked by three brown bears, that were near devouring
him; but he made his escape by running down a steep
bank into the water. In this adventure he fell, injured
his gun, and hurt one of his hands; therefore returned to
camp. One of the men and myself went over to an
island to look for stuff for the canoe, but could find noth-
ing but bark, which perhaps will answer. We killed two
elk on the island. There is in the bottoms a great quan-
tity of spear-mint and currant bushes. Also multitudes
of blackbirds. The musketoes are very troublesome,
though the snow is on the mountains so near. In the
evening the two men came up the river with a quantity of
good meat and 100 pounds of tallow.

Wednesday 26. A fine morning. Two hunters went
up the river, and myself and another went over the river
to collect bark; where a great gang of buffalo came near
us, and we killed seven of them. In the evening the
men returned over the plains with two more canoes and
baggage. One man fell very sick and Captain Lewis had
to bleed him with a penknife, having no other instrument
at this camp. Captain Clarke measured the length of
this portage accurately and found it to be 18 miles. He
also measured the heighth of the falls, and found them in
a distance of 17 miles, 362 feet nine inches. The first
7

«.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 99

groat pitch 98 feet, the second 19 feet, the third 47 feet
eio^ht inches, the fourth 26 feet, and a number of small
pitches, amounting altogether to 362 feet nine inches.

Thursday 27. A fine day. The men went back for
the remaining canoe and baggage. The sick man has
become better. This morning some elk came close to
camp and we killed two of them. In the afternoon a
dreadful hail storm came on, which lasted half an hour.
Some of the lumps of ice that fell weighed three ounces,
and measured seven inches in circumference. The
eround was covered with them, as white as snow. It
kept cloudy during the evening and some ram fell. At
night the two hunters that went up the river returned.
They had killed while out nine elk and three bears.

Friday 28. A fine morning. There are but six per-
sons now at this camp, but all busy about the boat; some
shaving skins, some sewing them together, and some pre-
paring the wood part.

The following, as related by a traveller, is a striking, but melan-
choly picture of cruelty towards the brute creation, mingling itself
in what are called national sports. In perusing accounts such as
these, we cannot but reflect Avith satisfaction, that, in this country,
all public exhibitions in which the inferior animals are made to
bleed for the mere amusement of man, may be said to be entirely
abandoned, as unmanly and unbecoming a Christian people.

"We again repaired to the palace at an early hour; the Rajah was
ready to receive us, and after a slight refreshment, we took our sta-
tion in the gallery to witness the second day's sports. We were
prepared for an unusual sight. A lion was to be turned into the
arena with an African buffalo, purchased by his Highness some
months before, and which still remained uncommonly wild and
fierce.

We had not long taken our station in the gallery, before the
buffalo was driven from its stall. The moment it entered the
enclosure it began to bellow and plunge violently, throwing the dirt
from its heels into the air at least a dozen feet high. It was a
bony animal, as large as a Durham ox, though not, perhaps, quite
so tall, its legs being short in proportion to its size. It had an im-
mense head, with long horns, that curled like those of a ram, whilst
its large projecting eye and dilated nostril gave it an expression of
extreme fierceness. There was scarcely any hair upon its body,
except on the neck and tail: at the extremity of the latter appeared
a large tuft, very thick and coarse. It was altogether a very noble
creature, full of strength and fury.

After a few moments the bars of the lion's cage were raised, and

5608 30

100 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

Saturday 29. We had a very hard gust of wind and
rain in the morning; but a fine forenoon after it. Cap-
tain Lewis and a hunter went down the river about seven
miles, to see a very large spring which rises out of the
bank of the Missouri on the south side. In the after-
noon there was another heavy shower of rain, and after
it a fme evening. Captain Lewis came to camp, but
drenched with rain.

Sunday 30. A fme morning, and heavy dew, which is
very rare in this country. The men with the canoe and
baggage did not return, as we expected.

Monday, July 1, 1805. A fine day. In the after-
noon. Captain Clarke and the men came with all the
baggage except some they had left six miles back. Tho
hail that fell on the 27th hurt some of the men very badly.
Captain Clarke, the interpreter, and the squaw and child,
had gone to see the spring at the falls ; and when the
storm began, they took shelter under a bank at the mouth
of a run; but in five minutes there was seven feet water

the kingly animal bounded forward. It was one of the finest I had
ever seen. A Hindoo sage has said that "tlie elephant, the lion, and
the wise man, seek their safety in flight; but the crow, the deer,
and the coward, die in their nest." In the present instance, how-
ever, the lion was fully vindicated from the obloquy of such vul-
gar wisdom, as will be presently seen.

It stalked majestically forward, but, seeing the buffalo, dropped
upon its belly, swept the ground v.'ith its tail, and then uttering a
short growl, made two or three leaps, and sprang upon its adversa-
ry's neck without further preliminaries. The sudden shock brought
the buffalo upon its knees; but inmiediately recovering, the latter
threw back its head with a violence that disloged the lion, casting it
with prodigious force against the strong wooden palings of the
enclosure, at the same time striking one of its horns into the flank
of its assailant and opening a hideous gash. The lion was for a
moment stunned; nevertheless, before its enemy had time to tako
advantage of its condition, it was on its legs, and had again sprung
upon the buffalo's neck, which it lacerated dreadlully. There was
now a deadly struggle; but the latter, repeating the same action
which had before disengaged it from the gripe of its tawny foe,
threw the lion against the palings with still greater violence than
before, and there gored it with an animation that soon entirely
disabled the noble beast from renewing the contest. The buffalo
was by this time so exhausted that it fell by the side of its prostrate
enemy. After some exertion the keepers got it upon its legs and
led it from the scene of combat. The lion was with difliculty drag-
ged into its cage, but in a few days appeared little the worse."

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 101

in the run; and they were very near being swept away.
They lost a gun, and umbrella and a Surveyor's com-
pass, and barely escaped with their lives.

Tuesday 2. A fme morning. The Surveyor's com-
pass which had been lost was found to day. The men
went out for the baggage which had been left on the way,
and got in with the whole of it, and canoes safe.

In the evening, the most of the corps crossed over to an
island, to attack and rout its monarch, a large brown bear,
that held possession and seemed to defy all that would
attempt to besiege him there. Our troops, however,
stormed the place, gave no quarter, and its commander
fell. Our army returned the same evening to camp with-
out having suffered any loss on their side.

Wednesday 3. A fine morning. I was so engaged
with the boat, that I had not visited the falls. I therefore
set out with one of the men to-day for that purpose. I
found the 2nd pitch the most beautiful, though not the
highest. About a mile below the upper pitch, the largest
and most beautiful spring rises out of the bank of the
Missouri on the south side that I ever beheld. We had
a light shower of rain. During this excursion I saw
more buffalo than I had seen any day previous: we killed
seven of them before we returned to camp. We also
saw 25 wolves in one gang or pack.

Thursday 4. A fine day. A part of the men were
busily engaged at the boat, and others in dressing skins
for clothing, until about 4 o'clock in the afternoon, when
we drank the last of our spirits in celebrating the day,
and amused ourselves with dancing till 9 o'clock at night,
when a shower of rain fell and we retired to rest.

Friday 5. A fine morning. All the men, except five
of us who where engaged at the boat, went to hunt; at
night they came in and had killed several buffalo and
some cabres or antelopes.

Saturday 6. As many of the hands as could find
room to work were engaged at the boat; and four went
down the river to hunt buffalo, in order to get their skins
to cover our craft. This was a beautiful and pleasant
day.

102 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

Sunday 7. The morning was fine. The hunters had
remained out all night. In the evening some few drops
of rain fell ; and the hunters came in ; but had not had
good luck, the buffalo being mostly out in the plains.
At night we got our boat linished, all but greasing; and
she was laid out to dry.

Monday 8. Again we had a fine morning, and a num-
ber of the party went out to hunt. In the evening they
all came in, and had killed but three buffalo, a deer and a
cabrc; and caught a small animal almost like a cat, of a
light color. Yesterday one of the men caught a small
squirrel, like a ground squirrel, but of a more dun color,
and more spotted. We finished the boat this evening,
having covered her with tallow and coal-dust. We cal-
led her the Experiment, and expect she will answer our
purpose.

Tuesday 9. A fine morning, and heavy dew. In the
forenoon we loaded our canoes, and put the Experiment
into the water. She rides very light but leaks some. In
the afternoon a storm of wind, with some rain came on
from the north west, and we had again to unload some of
our canoes, the weaves ran so high. After the storm we
had a fine evenins;. The tallow and coal were found not
to answer the purpose; for as soon as dry, it cracked and
scaled ofT, and the water came through the skins. There-
fore for want of tar or pitch we had, after all our labor,
to haul our new boat on shore, and leave it at this place.

Wednesday 10. A fine cool morning. Captain Lewis
and Captain Clarke thought it would be best to make two
canoes more, if we could get timber large enough. So
Captain Clarke and 10 men set out in search of it. Some
of the hunters having seen large timber about 20 miles
up the river, the canoes were sent on loaded, and a party
went by land; the distance that way being only six or
seven miles. If timber is found, the canoes are to unload
and return for the remainder of the baggage. Captain
Lewis myself and nine men staid to take the boat asun-
der and bury her; and deposited her safely under ground.
Captain Lewis had an observation at 12 which gave 47°
3. 10. N. Latitude. In the afternoon I went out to see if

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 103

there were any bufTilo near, but f(3uad none: they appear
to have all left the river. On the bank of a run where
there are high rocks, I found a great quantity of sweet
gooseberries, all ripe.

Thursday 11. We continued here waitins: for the
r-'turn of the canoes until 2 o'clock; then four of us went
out and killed a bufTilo and brought in part of the meat.
The canoes did not come back this evening.

Friday 12. A fine morning. Myself and three of
the men went up the river to assist Captain Clarke's par-
ty. In our way we passed a small bottom on the north
side of the river, in which there is an old Indian lodge
216 feet in circumference. Here we saw some wild
pigeons and turtle doves. Having gone about seven
miles we found Captain Clarke's party, who had cut down
two trees and taken off logs for canoes, one 25 and the
Other 30 feet in length. The canoes had returned to our
old camp, where Captain Lewis was.

Saturday 13. A fine day, but high wind. Captain
Lewis came up here, accompanied by the squaw. He
informed us that the canoes had started with all the bag-
gage from the former encampment, which we had called
White-bear camp. The musketoes are very trouble-
some. This evening the canoes were finished except the
putting in some knees.

Sunday 14. A fine morning. About 11 o'clock the
men came up with the canoes and baggage. The dis-
tance by water was found to be 22 miles, and by land
only six miles. In the afternoon some rain fell but we
continued to work at the canoes, and finished them ready
for loading.

CHAPTER X.

Monday 15. After a night of heavy rain, we had a
pleasant morning, and loaded the canoes. About 1 1
o'clock we set out from this place, which we had called
Canoe camp; had fine still water, and passed some hand-
some small bottoms on both sides of the river. We also
passed a handsome river on the south side, about 100

104 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

yards wide, which seemed to have its source in a large
mountain on the same side. The snow appears to have
melted from all the mountains in view. The country
around is composed of dry plains, with short grass. We
passed two small creeks, one on each side of the river;
made 26 miles, and encamped on the North side.

Tuesday 16. We embarked early and had a fme
morning. Captain Lewis and two men went on ahead
to the mountain to take an observation. We passed the
channel of a river on the south side without water, about
60 yards wide. We had fine water until about 1 o'clock,
when we came within about two miles of the mountain;
when the water became more rapid; but the current not
so swift as below the falls. At this place there are a
number of small islands. One of our men has been
taken unwell. In the afternoon we continued our voyage,
and the water continued very rapid. We got about three
miles into the first range of the Rocky Mountains, and
encamped on the north side of the river on a sand beach.
There is some fine timber on the mountains, but not
much in this part. There are great hills of solid rock
of a dark color. This day we went about 20 miles.

Wednesday 17. We set out early, and the morning
was fine and pleasant. At 8 o'clock we came to Captain
Lewis's camp, at a very rapid place of the river, and
took breakfast. We had h(?re to join the crews of two
canoes together, to go up the rapids which were about
half a mile long. The Missouri at this place is very
narrow. At the head of these rapids a fine spring comes
in on the south side, which rises about a quarter of a mile
from the river; and has a good deal of small cotton-wood
and willows on its banks. There is also another spring
below the rapids, but it sinks before it reaches the river.
We proceeded on through the mountains, a very desert
looking part of the country. Some of the knobs or
peaks of these mountains are 700 (perhaps some nearly
1200) feet high, all rock; and though they are almost per-
pendicular, we saw mountain sheep on the very tops of
them. We saw few other animals to day. The general
breadth of the river is 100 yards. We went 11 miles
and encamped in a small bottom on the North side.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 105

Thursday 18. The morning was fair and we proceed-
ded on early ; passed Clear-water river on the north side
about 50 yards wide, rapid and shallow. There are a
great quantity of currants all along the river on both sides
in the small bottoms. At breakfast time Captain Clarke
with three men went on ahead. About eleven we got
through the higher part of the mountains, and to where
there is less timber and the rocks not so large. In the
forenoon we passed two small creeks on the north side,
and in the afternoon a small river on the same side; above
the mouth of which we got a deer skin, that Captain
Clarke's man had hung up. The country continues
much the same. We made 20 miles this day.

Friday 19. A fine morning. At nine we came to
high parts of the mountains, which had a good deal of
pine, spruce and cedar on them, and where there were not
so many rocks ; but no timber in the bottoms except some
small willows. About 1 o'clock we had thunder, light-
ning and rain, which continued an hour or two, and then
the weather became clear. This afternoon we passed
parts of the mountains, that were very high, and mostly
of solid rock of a light color. The mountains are so
close on the river on both sides that we could scarcely find
room to encamp. We went 20 miles and encamped on
the South side. After night some rain fell.

Saturday 20. We had a fine morning, and embarked
early. About eight we got out of the high part of the
mountains, and came to where they are lower and not so
rocky; and where there are the finest currants I ever saw
of different kinds, red, yellow and black; the black are
the most palatable. There is also a good portion of tim-
ber on the mountains all along this part. We killed an
elk in our way, and found the skin of one which Captain
Clarke had left on the bank with a note, informing us he
would pass the mountain he was then on, and wait for the
canoes. We passed a small creek on the south side, and
about two o'clock came to a level plain on the north side,
from which we saw a strong smoke rising, and supposed
it was from a fire made by Captain Clarke. The river is
very crooked in general, and here is a great bend to the

106 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

southeast; and in the afternoon it turned so far that our
course was north of east. We proceeded on through a
valley between two mountains, one of whicli we passed,
and the other is in view ahead. We went 15 miles and
encamped at the mouth of a small run on the South side.

Sunday 21. W^e set out at sun rise and had a pleasant
morning; passed some middling high hills on the river,
and rocks of a red purple color; also two small creeks,
one on each side. There arc a few pines on the hills.
At noon our course began to change more to the south-
west again; the wind blew very hard and some drops of
rain fell. In the afternoon wc passed through a ridge,
where the river is very narrow ; and close above a large
cluster of small islands, where we had some difficulty to
get along, the water being so much separated. We went
15 miles and a half, and encamped on the south side, on
a beautiful prairie bottom. One of our hunters killed a
fine deer.

Monday 22. W^e embarked early, the weather being
pleasant^^ passed some fine springs on the southern shore,
and a. large island near the northern. On the south side
the country is level to a good distance, but on the north
the 'hills come close to the river. At breakfast our squaw
informed us she had been at this place before when small.
Here we got a quantity of wild onions. At half past
nine, we proceeded on again; passed a large island at
noon; and in the afternoon, more islands: and came to a
place where Captain Clarke and his party were encamp-
ed. They told us they had seen the same smoke, which
we had discovered a few days ag;o, and found it had been
made by the natives, who they supposed had seen some
of us, and had fled, taking us for enemies. We went 17
miles and a half and encamped on an island; where we
found the musketoes very bad. We saw to day several
banks of snow on a mountain west of us.

Tuesday 23. A cloudy moniinc;. We embarked early,
and at the same time Captain Clarke and four men went
on ai^ain to endeavor to meet with some of the natives.
We had rai)id water, and passed a grate number of
islands. Captain Clarke and his men killed four deer

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 107

and a cabre, and left the skins and meat on the shore,
where we could easily find them. The course of the
river all day was nearly from the south, through a valley
of 10 or 12 miles wide. The mountains are not so high
nor so rocky, as those we passed. Large timber is not
plenty, but there are a great quantity of small shrubs and
willows. We passed a small river on the south side, and
some banks of very white clay. We encamped on an
island, having made 24 miles.

Wednesday 24. The morning was fine, and we early
prosecuted our voyage; parsed a bank of very red earth,
which our squaw told us the natives use for paint. Deer
are plenty among the bushes, and one of our men killed
one on the bank. We continued through the valley all
day; went 19 miles and encamped on the North side.

Thursday 25. We embarked and passed on at the
usual time, in a fine morning; we passed a beautiful
plain on the north side, and at 2 o'clock we came to the
entrance of another chain of mountains; where we took
dinner and again went on. Passing through this chain we
found some difficult rapids, but good water between them.
This chain of mountains are not so high, nor so rocky
as those passed before. Six very fine springs rise on the
southern shore, about four miles above the entrance of
this range. W^e went 16 miles and encamped on the
North side.

Friday 26. The morning was fine and we continued
our course through the mountains. There are some
cedar and spruce trees on the shores, but very little of any
kind on the mountains. About 1 1 o'clock we got through
this range into a valley: about two came to a large
island and halted on it for dinner. A rattle-snake came
among our canoes in the water, of a kind different from
any I had seen. It was about two feet long, of a light
color, with small spots all over. One of our hunters
went on ahead in the morning, and at this place killed
four deer. While we remained here it became cloudy
and some rain fell. At 4 o'clock we proceeded on
through the valley; passed a creek on the south side, and
having made 18 miles and a half, encamped on the
same side, where a small mountain comes into the river.

108 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

Saturday 27. We continued our voyage early, and
had a pleasant morning; proceeded on, and at 9 o'clock
got through the small mountain. At the entrance of the
valley, a branch of the Missouri comes in on the south
side about 60 yards wide; the current rapid but not very
deep. Here we took breakfast, and having proceeded on
a mile, came to another branch of the same size. There
is very little difference in the size of the three branches.
On the bank of the north branch we found a note Captain
Clarke had left informing us, he was ahead and had gone
up that branch. We went on to the point, and, as the
men were much fatigued, encamped in order to rest a day
or two. After we halted here, it began to rain and con-
tinued three hours. About 12 o'clock Captain Clarke
and his men came to our encampment, and told us they
had been up both branches a considerable distance, but
could discover none of the natives. There is a beautiful
valley at these forks; and a good deal of timber on the
branches, chiefly cotton-wood. Also currants, goose and
service berries, and choak-cherries on the banks. The
deer are plenty too; some of the men went out and killed
several to-day. Captain Clarke was very unwell and
had been so all last night. In the evening the weather
became clear and we had a fine night.

Sunday 28. As this was a fine day, the men were
employed in airing the baggage, dressing skins and hunt-
ing. Captain Clarke still continued unwell. Our squaw
informed us, that it was at this place she had been taken
prisoner by the Grossventers four or five years ago. From
this valley we can discover a large mountain with snow
on it, towards the southwest; and expect to pass by the
northwest end of it. Captain Lewis had a meridian alti-
tude here, which gave 45° 22. 34. 5. north latitude. We
also remained here the 29ih, which was a fine day, and
the men chiefly employed in the same way. Captain
Clarke is getting better.

Tuesday 30. We left our encampment at the forks,
and proceeded on about 7 o'clock A. M. up the North
branch. This branch is about 60 yards wide and six feet
deep, with a rapid current. We passed a number of

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 109

islands. The valley continued on the South side all this
day; but the spur of a mountain, about five or six miles
from the forks came in close on the North side with very
high cliffs of rocks. We encamped where it terminated,
having made 13 miles and an half.

Wednesday 31. We set out early, and had a fine
cool morning with dew. Last night Captain Lewis went
on ahead, and the canoes being unable to get on to him,
he was obliged to encamp out alone in this howling
wilderness. We passed a small creek this morning on
the South side, which empties into the river, through two
or three mouths, on account of its being much dammed
up by the beaver, which are very plenty. At breakfast
time we came up to Captain Lewis; and having made 17
miles and three quarters, encamped on an island.

Thursday, August 1, 1805. W^e set out early in a
fine morning and proceeded on till breakfast time; when
Captain Lewis, myself and the two interpreters went on
ahead to look for some of the Snake Indians. Our
course lay across a large mountain on the North side,
over which we had a very fatiguing trip of about 1 1 miles.
We then came to the river again, and found it ran through
a handsome valley of from six to eight miles wide. At
the entrance of this valley, which is covered with small
bushes, but has very little timber, we killed two elk and
left the meat for the canoes to take up, as the men stood
much in need of it, having no fresh provisions on hand.
We crossed a small creek on the North shore, and en-
camped on the same side.

Friday 2. The morning was fine and we went on at
sunrise, proceeded four or five miles and crossed the river.
In the middle of the day it was very warm in the valley,
and at night very cold ; so much so that two blankets
were scarce a sufficient covering. On each side of the
valley there is a high range of mountains, which run
nearly parallel, with some spots of snow on their tops.
We killed a deer; went about 24 miles and encamped on
the South side.

Saturday 3. A fine cool morning. We left a note
for Captain Clarke, continued our route along the valley;

no JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

and passed several fine springs that issue from the moun-
tains. Currants and service berries are in abundance
along this valley, and we regaled ourselves with some of
the best I had ever seen. AVe went about 22 miles and
encamped. The night was disagreeably cold.

Sunday 4. At sunrise we continued our march, in a
fine morning; went about six miles when we came to a
fork of the river; crossed the South branch and from a
high knob discovered that the river had forked below us,
aswe could see the timber on the North branch about six
or seven miles from the South and West branches. We
therefore crossed to the North branch, and finding it not
navigable for our canoes, went down to the confiuence
and left a note for Captain Clarke directing him to take
the lefi hand branch. We then went up the North branch
about ten miles and encamped on it.

Monday 5. This morning Captain Lewis thought it
would be best for me and one of the interpreters to go
over to the West branch, and remain there, until he and
the other should go higher up the North, cross over in
search of Indians and then go down and join us. At
night they came to our camp, but had not seen any of
the natives, nor any fresh signs.

Tuesday 6. We started early to go down to the point
to see if the canoes had come up that far, and came upon
the North branch about two miles above it. Here we
discovered that the people in the canoes had not found
the note, and with great difficulty, had proceeded five or
six miles up the North branch. In their return down,
one of the canoes was overturned ; a knapsack, shot-pouch
and powder-horn lost, and all the rest of the loading wet.
We got down to the forks about 12 o'clock, put all our
baggage out to dry, and encamped for the night. Some
hunters went out and killed three deer.

Wednesday 7. We remained here during the fore-
noon, which was fair and clear, and where Captain Lewis
took a meridian altitude, which made the latitude of this
place 45° 2 53 North. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon,
we were ready to continue our voyage. In the evening
a heavy cloud came up, and we had hard thunder with

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. Ill

lio-htniiiir and rain. We went on seven miles and en-
camped on the North side, when the weather cleared,
and we had a fine night. The canoes came 62 miles
and three quarters while we were out.

Thursday 8. We proceeded on early and had a plea-
sant morning. The West branch which we went up is
about 30 )'-ards wide, and the South, which wo passed,
about 15 yards. Three hunters went by land to-day,
and at noon had killed two deer and a goat or cabre.
The river is very crooked in this valley. The hunters
again went out in the afternoon and killed two more deer.
There are no buffalo in this part of the country, and
other game is not plenty. We went this day 19 miles.

We found out the reason why Captain Clarke did not
g:3t the note left at the point, which was, that a beaver
had cut down and dragged off the pole, on which 1 had
fixed it.

Friday 9. We set out at sunrise, and had a fine morn-
ing with some dew ; proceeded on till 9 o'clock when we
halted for breakfast. Here one of the hunters came to
us who had been out since the morning the canoes went
up the North branch by mistake, and who had that morn-
ing preceded them by land. Here also Captain Lewis
and three men started to go on ahead ; and at ten we
proceeded on with the canoes. The river is narrow and
very crooked, and the valley continues about the same
breadth. There is some timber on the mountain on the
South side, and white earth or rocks appearing through
the pines. At noon we halted for dinner, and hauled out
one of the canoes, which had sprung a leak and caulked
her.

This morning our commanding officers thought proper
that the Missouri should lose its name at the confluence
of the throe branches we had left on the 30th ultimo.
The North branch, which we went up, they called Jef-
FERSOx; the West or middle branch, Madison; the South
branch, about two miles up which a beautiful spring
comes in, Gallatin! and a small river above the forks
they called Philosophy. Of the three branches we had
just left, they called the North, Wisdom, the South, Phi-

112 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

lanthrophy, and ihc West or middle fork, which we con-
tinued our voyage along, retained the name of Jefferson.
We went 14 miles and encamped on the South side.
Our two hunters killed but one goat.

CHAPTER XL

Saturday 10. We set out early in a line morning, and
proceeded on through the valley, until breakfast lime,
when we came to a place where the river passes through
a mountain. This narrow passage is not more than a
quarter of a mile in length. At the upper end another
valley commences, but not so wide as the one below.
There is no timber in the lower end of this valley; and
the river very crooked, narrow, and in some places so
shallow, that we were obliged to get into the water and
drag the canoes along. At 1 o'clock we halted to dine,
when a shower of rain came on with thunder and light-
ning, and continued an hour, during which some hail fell.
Two hunters were out to-day and killed but one deer.
We came 13 miles and encamped on the North side.
Here the valley begins to be more extensive.

Sunday 11. This morning was cloudy and we did
not set out until after breakfast. Three hunters were
sent out and we proceeded on about three miles, when we
came to a large island, which is 3000 miles from the river
Du Bois at the mouth of the Missotiri. We therefore
called it 3000 mile Island. We took up the South side
of it, and had difficulty in passing, the water being shallow.
About two, some rain fell. Our hunters killed three deer
and a goat. We went 14 miles and encamped on the
North side.

Monday 12. We proceeded on at the usual time, and
three hunters were again sent out. A few drops of rain
fell to-day. Our hunters killed four deer; and after
making 12 miles we encamped on the North side.

Tuesday 13. A cloudy morning. We set out early,
through rapid water; the river being crooked and narrow,

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 113

and passed a small creek on the South side. The weather
was cold during the whole of this day. We wont 16
miles and encamped in a beautiful plain on the South
side.

Wednesday 14. The morning was clear and cold.
We embarked after breakfast ; passed a small creek on
the North side and a beautiful valley on the same side.
Timber is very scarce, and only some few scattering
trees along the river. Our hunters came in at noon, who
had been out all day yesterday: they had killed five deer
and a goat. There are a few deer and goats in this part
of the country; and otter and beaver in plenty along the
river, but no other kind of game that we could discover.
There are some fish in the river and trout of a large size,
and of the black kind. We went 15 miles and encamped
on the South side where we had great difficulty in pro-
curing a sufficient quantity of wood to cook with.

Thursday 15. We had a fine morning and proceeded
on about 8 o'clock. Having gone two miles, we came
to the entrance of a mountain, where Captain Lewis and
his party on the second day after their departure had
taken dinner; and had left lour deer skins. At the en-
trance of the mountain there are two high pillars of
rocks, resembling towers on each side of the river. The
mountains are not very high and do not approach so
near the river as some we have passed; they are about
a quarter of a mile distant, and the river meanders along
between them through the bushes and is not more than
20 yards wide, and about a foot and a half deep. The
water is very cold, and severe and disagreeable to the
men, who are frequently obliged to wade and drag the
canoes. We went 15 miles and encamped on the South
side.

Friday 16. W^e did not set out till after breakfast, and
while here one of the men went out and killed a fine
buck. We proceeded through rapid water; the river is
very narrow, crooked and shallow. This morning we
passed a place where the hills come close to the river for
a short distance, and then open on each side of a small
valley, which, on account of the great quantity of servico
8

114 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

berries in it, we called Service-berry valley. We passed
over a rapid of about a quarter of a mile, and encamped
on the South side, having come 15 miles.

Saturday 17. A fme morning. We proceeded on
about two miles, and discovered a number of the natives,
of the Snake nation, coming along the bank on the South
side. Captain Lewis had been as far as the waters of the
Columbia river and met them there. We continued on
about two miles further to a place where the river forks,
and there halted and encamped, after much fatigue and
difficulty. The water is so shallow that we had to drag
the canoes, one at a time, almost all the way. The dis-
tance across from this place to the waters of the Colum-
bia river is about 40 miles, and the road or way said to be
good. There were about 20 of the natives came over
with Captain Lewis, and had the same number of horses.
Here we unloaded the canoes, and had a talk with the
Indians; and agreed with them that they should lend us
some of their horses to carry our baggage to the Colum-
bia river.

Sunday 18. A fine morning. We bought three hor-
ses of the Indians. Captain Clarke and 11 more, with
our interpreter and his wife, and all the Indians set out
at 1 1 o'clock to go over to the Columbia. The Indians
went for horses to carry our baggage, and we to search
for timber to make canoes for descending the Columbia.
W^e proceeded up the north branch which is the largest
and longest branch of Jefferson river, through a hand-
some valley about five miles wide. In this we found a
number of springs and small branches, but no timber.
There is plenty of grass and clover, and also some flax
all along it. The Indians all except five went on ahead.
We traveled 15 miles and encamped close on the branch
which is about five yards wide. Here we killed two small
deer. The country all around is very mountainous, with
some few pine trees on the mountains. At 3 o'clock
this afternoon there was a violent gust of wind, and
some rain fell. In about an hour the weather became
clear, and very cold, and continued cold all night.

Monday 19. A fine morning, but cold. We proceeded

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. J 15

on at 8 o'clock alonpj the valley for six miles, when the
hills came more close on the branch, which here divides
into three parts or other small branches, and two miles
further the principal branch again forks, where the moun-
tains commence with a thick grove of small pines on our
left, and large rocks on our right. At 1 o'clock we
dined at the head spring of the Missouri and Jefferson
Rivers, about 25 miles from the place, where we had left
the canoes, and from which the course is nearly west.
About five miles South of us we saw snow on the top of
a mountain, and in the morning there was a severe white
frost: but the sun shines very warm where we now are.
At 3 o'clock, we proceeded on, and at the foot of the
dividing ridge, we met two Indians coming to meet us,
and who appeared very glad to see us. The people of
this nation instead of shalang hands as a token of friend-
ship, put their arms round the neck of the person they
salute. It is not more than a mile from the head spring
of the Missouri to the head of the branches of the Colum-
bia. We proceeded on through the mountain; passed
some fine springs, and encamped about 36 miles from
our camp, where the canoes are. Here we were met by
a number of the natives.

Tuesday 20. A fine cool frosty morning. We set
out early and traveled about four miles, to a village of
the Indians on the bank of a branch of the Columbia
river, about ten yards wide and very rapid- At this place
there are about 25 lodges made of willow bushes. They
are the poorest and most miserable nation I ever beheld;
having scarcely any thing to subsist on, except berries
and a few fish, which they contrive by some means, to
lake. They have a great many fine horses, and nothing
more; and on account of these they are much harassed
by other nations. They move about in any direction
where the berries are most plenty. We had a long talk
with them, and they gave us very unfavorable accounts
with respect to the rivers. From which we understood
that they were not navigable down, and expect to perform
the route by land. Here we procured a guide, and left
our interpreters to go on with the natives, and assist Capt.
Lewis and his party to bring on the baggage.

IIG JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

Captain Clarke and our party proceeded down the river
with our guide, through a valley about four miles wide,
of a rich soil, but almost without timber. There are
high mountains on both sides, with some pine trees on
them. Wc went about eight miles and encamped by a
fine spring. One of our men remained behind at the
villagij to buy a horse, and did not join us this evening.
Five of the Indians came and stayed with us during the
night. They told us that they were sometimes reduced
to such want, as to be obliged to cat their horses.

Wednesday 21. About 7 o'clock in the morning we
continued our journey down the valley, and came to a
few lodges of Indians where our guide lives. We re-
mained here about two hours, during which time a num-
ber of Indians passed us, going to fish. We proceeded on
the way the Indians had gone; and one of our men went
with theni to the fishing place. The valley becomes very
narrow here, and a largo branch of the river comes in a
short distance below. Hero we had to ascend high
ground, the bottom is so narrow; and continued on the
high ground about six miles when we came again to the
river, where a fine branch flows in, the valley is four or
five miles wide. In this branch we shot a salmon about
six pounds weight. We traveled 20 miles this day, and
encamped at a place where the mountains come close to
the river. In the valley through which we passed and
all along the river, there are cherries, currants and other
small fruit. The man who had remained behind at the
first village and the other who had gone with the Indians
to their fishing place, both joined us here. The Indians
gave them five salmon to bring to us: and he that had
stayed for a horse, brought one wiih him. At this place
the river is about 70 yards wide.

Thursday 22. The morning was fine, with a great
white frost. We began our journey at 7 o'clock; and
having traveled about a mile, crossed a branch of the
river. Here the mountains come so close on the river,
we could not get through the narrows, and had to cross a
very high mountain about 3 miles over, and then struck
the river again, where there is a small bottom and one

113 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

lofjgc of the natives in it, gathering berries, haws and
cherries for winter food. We soon had to ascend another
hirge mountain, and had to proceed in the same way until
we crossed four of them, when we came to a large creek,
where there is a small bottom and three lodges of Indians.
Three of our men having gone through the bottom to
hunt, camo first upon the lodges which greatly alarmed
the unhappy natives, who all fell a wce])ing and began
to run off; but the party coming up Avith the guide relieved
them from their fears. Thev then received us kindlv
and gave us berries and fish to eat. We remained with
them about two hours and gave them some presents.
Those of the natives, who are detached in small parties,
appear to live better, and to have a larger supply of pro-
visions, than those who live in large villages. The peo-
ple of these three lodges have gathered a quantity of sun-
flower seed, and also of the lambs-quarter, which they
pound and mix witlj service berries, and make of the
composition a kind of bread; which appears capable of
sustaining life for some time. On this bread and the fish
they take out of the river, these people, who appear to
be the most wretched of the human species, chiefly sub-
sist. They gave us some dried salmon, and we proceed-
ed down the river; but with a great deal of difficulty: the
mountains being so close, steep and rocky. The river
here is about 80 yards wid(\ and a continual rapid, but
not deep. We went about 15 miles to day, and encamp-
ed on a small island, as there was no other level place
near. Game is scarce, and we killed nothing since the
18th but one deer; and our stock of provisions is exhaus-
ted.

Friday 23. W^o proceeded down the river through
dreadful narrows, where the rocks were in some places
breast high, and no path or trail of any kind. This
morning we killed a goose, and badly wounded a large
buck in the water. One of our sergeants is very unwell.
We went on three miles, when Captain Clarke did not
think proper to proceed further with the horses, until he
should go forward and examine the pass. So we halted
on a small flat and breakfasted on some fish the natives

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 119

had given us. Captain Clarke, our guide, and three men
then went on. Another Indian who had come on from
the last Indian camp remained with us. We had yet seen
no limber larf^e enough to make canoes. Two of the
hunters went in search of the buck, which had been
wounded; and the rest staid at the camp to fish. In the
afternoon the men came in from hunting the wounded
deer, but could not find liim. They killed three prairie
hens, or pheasants. At night the sergeant who had been
sick, became better. We caught some small fish in the
night. The natives take their fish by spearing them;
their spears for this purpose are poles with bones fixed to
the ends of them, with which they strike the fish. They
have but four guns in the nation, and catch goats and
some other animals by running them down with horses.
The dresses of the women are a kind of shifts made of
the skins of these goats and mountain sheep, which come
down to the middle of the leg. Some of them have
robes, but others none. Some of the men have shirts
and some are without any. Some also have robes made
of beaver and buffalo skins; but there are few of the
former. I saw one made of ground hog skins.

Saturday 24. We had a pleasant mornirg and some
of the men went out to hunt. The river at this f lace is
so confined by the mountains that it is not more than 20
yards wide, and very rapid. The mountains on the sides
are not less than 1000 feet high and very steep. There
are a few pines growing on them. We caught some
small fish to day, and our hunters killed five prairie fowls.
These were all we had to subsist on. At 1 o'clock Capt.
Clarke and his party returned, after having been down
the river about 12 miles. They found it was not possible
to go down either by land or water, without much risk
and trouble. The water is so rapid and the bed of the
river so rocky, that going by water appeared impractica-
ble; and the mountains so amazingly high, steep and
rocky, that it seemed impossible to go along the river by
land. Our guide speaks of a way to sea, by going up
the south fork of this river, getting on the mountains that
way, and then turning to the south v/est again. Captain

12D JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

Clarke therefore wrote a letter to Captain Lewis, and dis-
patched a man on horseback to meet him; and we all
turned back up the river again, poor and uncomfortable
enough, as we had nothing to eat, and there is no game.
We proceeded up about three miles, and supperless went
to rest for the night.

Sunday 25. Wc set out early and had a fine morn-
ing; passed the Indian camp, where they gave us a litile
drivjd salmon, and proceeded back again over the moun-
tains. Some hunters went on ahead and about 4 o'clock
we got ov :r the four mountains, and encamped in the
valley. Two men went to hunt, and all the rest to fish.
We soon caught as many small fish as made, with two
salmon our guide got from some Indians, a comfortable
supper. At dark our hunters came in and had killed but
one beaver.

Monday 26. We had again a pleasant morning; and
four hunters went on early ahead, and one man to look
for the horses. Wc breakfasted on the beaver and a
salmon, which had been saved from supper the preceding
evening. Th3 man, who had gone for the horses, having
returned without finding them, four or live more went
out, and our guide immediately found them. We then
about 10 o'clock, proceeded on to the forks, where we
found our hunters; but they had killed nothing. So we
went up to a small village of the natives, got some fish
from them, and lodged there all night.

Tuesday 27. A fine morning with frost; and eight of
us went out to hunt. I observed some flax growing in
the bottoms on this river, but saw no clover or timothy,
as I had seen on the Missouri and Jefferson rivers.
Th^rj is a kind of wild snge or hyssop, as high as a
man's head, full of branches and leaves, which grows in
these bottoms, with shrubs of different kinds. In the
evening we all came in again, and had killed nothing but
a fish. We got some more from the natives, which we
subsisted on. We lodged here again all night, but heard
nothing from Captain Lewis.

Wednesday 28. The morning again was pleasant,

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. ICl

and I went on to the upper village, where 1 found Capt.
Lewis and his party buying horses. They had got 23
which with two we had, made in the whole 25. 1 then
returned to our camp, a distance of 15 miles, and arrived
there late. 1 found the weather very cold for the season.

Thursday 29. There was a severe white frost this
morning. Captain Clarke and all the men except myself
and another who remained to keep camp and prepare
packsaddles, went uj) to Captain Lewis's cam[). While
I lay here to day, one of the natives shewed me their
method of producing fire, which is somewhat curious.
They have two sticks ready for the operation, one about
nine and the other eighteen inches long: the short slick
they lay down flat and rub the end of the other upon it
in a perpendicular direction for a few minutes; and the
friction raises a kind of dust, which in a short time takes
fire. These people make willow baskets so close and to
such perfection as to hold water, for which purpose they
make use of them. They make much use of the sun-
flower and lambs-quarter seed, as before mentioned;
which with berries and wild cherries pounded together,
compose the only bread they have any knowledge of, or
in use. The fish they take in this river are of excellent
kinds, especially the salmon, the roes of which when
dried and pounded make the best of soup.

Friday 30. We remained here all dav, and in the
evening the whole of the corps came down within a mile
of our camp, and remained there all night, being a good
place for grass.

Saturday 31. They all came down to our camp, and
we proceeded on with 27 horses and one mule. Our old
guide after consulting with the rest of the Indians, thought
it was better to go along the north side of the Columbia,
than on the south side. We therefore proceeded down,
the same way Captain Clarke had been before, 30 miles,
and then turned up a creek that comes in from the north,
and encamped on it about three miles and a half from the
mouth. Two hunters had gone on ahead this morning,
and at night joined us, having killed one deer. The first

122 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

cost of iliG articles, which had been given for each horse,
did not amount to more than from three to five dollars; so
that the whole of them only cost about one hundred dol-
lars.

CHAPTER XII.

Sunday, September 1, 1805. Wc set out early in a
fine morning, and traveled on nearly a west course. We
found here the greatest quantity and best service berries,
I had ever seen before; and abundance of choak-cherries.
There is also a small bush grows in this part of the coun-
try, about six inches high, which bears a bunch of small
purple berries. Some call it mountain holly; the fruit is
of an acid taste. We are much better supplied with
water than I expected; and crossed several tine springs
among the mountains through which we pass. At noon
some rain fell, and the day continued cloudy. About
the middle of the day Capt. Clarke's blackman's feet
became so sore that he had to ride on horseback. At 3
o'clock we came to a creek, where there was fine grass
and we halted to let our horses cat. There are a great
number of fish in this creek. After we halted the weath-
er became cloudy, and a considerable quantity of rain
fell. We therefore concluded to remain where we were
all night, having come this day 18 miles. Our hunters
killed a deer, and we caught five fish.

Monday 2. The morning was cloudy. W^e set out
early; proceeded up the creek, and passed some parts
closely timbered with spruce and pine. We went on
with diflicuUy on account of the bushes, the narrowness
of the way and stones that injured our horses feet, they
thev beinij without shoes. In the forenoon we killed
S(3me pheasants and ducks, and a small squirrel. In the
afternoon we had a good deal of rain, and the worst road
(if road it can be called) that was ever traveled. The
creek is become small and the hills come close in upon

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 123

tho banks of it, covered thick Avith standing timber and
fallen trees; so that in some places Ave were obliged to go
up the sides of the hills, which are very steep, and then
down again in order to get along at all. In going up
these ascents the horses would sometimes fall backwards,
which injured them very much; and one was so badly
hurt that the driver was obliged to leave his load on the
side of one of the hills. In the low ground there are
most beautiful tall strait pine trees of different kinds,
except of white pine. Game is scarce; and a small
(juantity of dried salmon, which we got from the natives
is almost our whole stock of provisions. A son of our
guide joined us to day and is going on. We went 13
miles and encamped; but some of the men did not come
up till late at night.

Tuesday 3. The morning of this day was cloudy
and cool. Two men went back with a horse to biing on
the load, which had been left behind last ni<2;ht; and we
breakfasted on the last of our salmon, and waited their
return. Two huntei^ were sent on ahead, and on the
return of the two men, who had been sent back, we pur-
sued our journey up the creek, which still continued
fatiguing ahnost beyond description. The country is very
mountainous and thickly timbered; mostly Avi;h spruce
pme. Having gone nine miles we halted for dinner,
which was composed of a small portion of flour we had
along and the last of our pork, which was but a trifle:
Our hunters had not killed any thing. We staid here
about two hours, during which time some rain fell and
the weather was extremely cold for the season. We then
went on about three miles over a large mountain, to the
head of another creek, and encamped there for the night.
This was not the creek our guide wished to have come
upon ; and to add to our misfortunes we had a cold even-
insT with rain.

Wednesday 4. A considerable quantity of snow fell
last nio^ht, and the morninsf was cloudv. After eaiinof a
few grains of parched corn, we set out at 8 o'clock;
crossed a large mountain and hit on tho creek and small
valley, which were wished for by our guide. We killed

124 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

some pheasants on our way, and were about to make use
of the last of our flour, when to our great joy, one of our
hunters killed a fine deer. So we dined upon that and
proceeded down a small valley about a mile wide, with a
rich black soil; in which there are a great quantity of
sweet roots and herbs,such as sweet myrrh, angelica and
several other, that the natives make use of, and of the
names of which I am unacquainted. There is also tim-
othy grass growing in it; and neither the valley nor the
hills are so thickly timbered, as the mountains we had
lately passed. What timber there is, is mostly pitch
pine. We kept down the valley about five miles, and
came to the Tussapa band of the Flathead nation of
Indians, or a part of them. We found them encamped
on the creek and we encamped with them. *

Thursday 5. This was a fine morning with a great
white frost. The Indian do&s are so huno;rv and raven-
ous, that they eat four or five pair of our moccasons last
night. We remained here all day, and rccuitcd our
horses to 40 and three colts; and made four or five of this
nation of Indian chiefs. They are a very friendly peo-
ple; have plenty of robes and skins for covering, and a
large stock of horses, some of which are very good; but
they have nothing to cat, but berries, roots and such arti-
cles of food. This band is on its way over to the Mis-
souri or Yellow-Stone river to hunt buffalo. They are
the whitest Indians I ever saw.

Friday 6. A cloudy morning. We exchanged some
of our horses, that were fatigued, with the natives; about
12 o'clock some rain fell; and we prepared to move on.
At one we started, when the Indians also set out. We
proceeded over a mountain to a creek, and went down
the creek, our course being northwest; found the country
mountainous and poor; and the game scarce. Having

* Captain Clarke in his letter to liis brother, calls them the
Olcnclislioot band of the Tiicknapax. It is of no very great im-
portance, at present, to know by what names tlie several tribes and
bands arc distintriiished; and jMr. Gass says that without an inter-
preter it was very diiiicult to ascertain them with any degree of
certainty.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 125

traveled about seven miles we encamped. Four hunters
had been out to day, but killed nothing; we therefore
supped upon a small quantity of corn we had yet left.

Saturday 7. We set out early in a cloudy cool morn-
ing; and our hunters went on as usual. We proceeded
down the creek, and in our way we were met by a hun-
ter, who had not come in last night, and who had lost his
horse. We halted at 12 o'clock, and one of the hunters
killed two deer; which was a subject of much joy and
congratulation. Here we remained to dine, and some
rain fell. On the south of this place there are very high
mountains covered with snow and timber, and on the
north prairie hills. After staying here two hours we pro-
ceeded on down the creek; found the country much the
same as that which we had passed through in the fore-
noon; and having traveled about 20 miles since the
morning, encamped for the night. The valley is become
more extensive, and our creek has increased to a con-
siderable river. Some rain fell in the afternoon, and our
hunters killed two cranes on our way.

Sunday 8. The morning was wet, and we proceeded
on over some beautiful plains. One of our hunters had
remained out all night, at noon we halted and they all
came in, having killed an elk and a deer. At two we
proceeded on again, and had a cold, wet and disagreeable
afternoon, but our road or way was level along the valley.
Having traveled 20 miles, we encamped and our hunters
came in, one of whom had killed a deer, and another had
caught two mares and a colt, which he brought with him.

Monday 9. The morning was fair, but cool; and we
continued our journey down the river. The soil of the
valley is poor and gravelly; and the high snow-topped
mountains are still in view on our left: Our course gen-
erally north a few degrees west. We halted at noon: on
our way the hunters had killed three wild geese; so we
have plenty of provisions at present. At 2 o'clock we
again went forward, and crossed over the Flathead river,
about 100 yards wide, and which we called Clarke's liver;
passed through a close timbered bottom of about two
miles, and again came into beautiful plains. The timber

]2G JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

on this bottom is pitch pine. We traveled 19 miles and
encamped on a large creek, which comes in from the
south. Our hunters this day killed three deer.

Tuesday 10. We remained here all this day, which
was clear and pleasant, to let our horses rest, and to take
an observation. At night our hunters came in, and had
killed five deer. With one of the hunters, three of the
Flathead Indians came to our camp. They informed us
that the rest of their band was over on the Columbia river,
about five or six days' journey distant, with pack-horses;
that two of the Snake nation had stolen some of their
horses, and that they were in pursuit of them. We gave
them some presents, and one stayed to go over the
mountains with us; the other two continued their pursuit.

Wednesday 11. This was a fine morning, and we
went out to collect our horses, in order to renew our
journey, and found all but one. Captain Lewis had a
meridian altitude that wave 46^ 48. 28. 8. north latitude.
In the bottoms here, there are a great quantity of cher-
ries. The mountains are not so high, as at some distance
back. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon the horse was found,
and we proceeded on up the creek nearly a west course,
through small bottoms. We went about six miles and
e.icanpjd; wben our hunters came in but had killed
nothing. The country is poor and mountainous.

Thursday 12. We started early on our journey and
had a fine morning. Having traveled two miles we
reached the mountains which are very steep; but the
road over them pretty good, as it is much traveled by the
natives, \vho come across to the Flathead river to gather
cherries and berries. Our hunters in a short time killed
four deer. At noon we halted at a branch of the creek,
on the banks of which arc a number of strawberry vines,
haws, and service berry bushes. At two we proceeded
on over a large mountain, where there is no water, and
we could find no place to encamp until late at night, when
we arrived at a small branch, and 'encamped by it, in a
very inconvenient place, having come 23 miles.

Friday 13. A cloudy morning. Captain Lewis's
horse could not be found ; but some of the men wore left

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 127

to hunt for him and we proceeded on. When we had
gone two miles, we came to a most beautiful warm spring,
the water of which is considerably above blood-heat; and
I could not bear my hand in it without uneasiness.
There are so many paths leading to and from this spring,
that our guide took a wrong one for a mile or two, and we
had bad traveling across till we got into the road again.
At noon we halted. Game is scarce; and our hunters
killed nothing since yesterday morning; though four of
the best were constantly out, and every one of them
furnished whh a good horse. While we remained here.
Captain Lewis and the men, who had been left with him,
came up; but had not found the horse. At 2 o'clock we
proceeded on again over a mountain, and in our way
found a deer, which our hunters had killed and hung up.
In a short time we met with them, and Captain Lewis sent
two back to look for the horse. We passed over a divi-
ding ridge to the waters of another creek, and after tra-
veling 12 miles we encamped on the creek, up which
there are some prairies or plains.

Saturday 14. We set out early in a cloudy morning;
passed over a largo mountain, crossed Stony creek, about
30 yards wide, and then went over another large moun-
tain, on which I saw service-berry bushes hanging full
of fruit; but not yet ripe, owing to the coldness of the
climate on these mountains: 1 also saw a number of
other shrubs, which bear fruit, but for which I know no
names. There are black elder and bore-tree, pitch and
spruce pine all growing together on these mountains.
Being here unable to find a place to halt at, where our
horses could feed, we went on to the junction of Stony
creek, with another large creek, which a short distance
down becomes a considerable river, and encamped for
the night, as it rained and was disagreeable traveling.
The two hunters, that had gone back here joined us with
Captain Lewis's horse, but none of the hunters killed any
thing except two or three pheasants; on which, without a
miracle it was impossible to feed 30 hungry men and
upwards, besides some Indians. So Captain Lewis gave
out some portable soup, which he had along, to be used

128 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

in cases of necessity. Some of the men did not relish
this soup, and agreed to kill a coh; \vhich they immedi-
ately did, and set about roasting it; and which appeared
to me to be good eating. This day we traveled seven-
teen miles.

CHAPTER XIII.

Sunday 15. Having breakfasted on colt we moved
on down the river three miles, and again took the moun-
tains. In going up, one of the horses fell, and required eight
or ten men to assist him in getting up again. We contin-
ued our march to 2 o'clock when we halted at a spring and
dined on portable soup and a handful of parched corn.
We then proceeded on our journey over the mountain
to a high point, where, it being dark, w^e were obliged to
encamp. There was here no water; but a bank of snow
answered as a substitiue; and we supped upon soup.

Monday IG. Last night about 12 o'clock it began to
snow. We renewed our march early, though the morn-
ing was very disagreeable, and proceeded over the most
terrible mountains I ever beheld: It continued snowing
until 3 o'clock P. M. when we halted, took some more
soup, and went on till we came to a small stream where
we encamped for the night. Here we killed another
colt and supped on it. The snow fell so thick, and the
day was so dark, that a person could not see to a distance
of 200 yards. In the night and during the day the snow
fell about 10 inches deep.

Tuesday 17. Our horses scattered so much last night,
that they were not collected until noon, at which time we
began our march again. It was a hne day with warm
sunshine, which melted the snow very fast on the south
sides of the hills, and made the traveling very fatiguing
and uncomfortable. We continued over high desert
mountains, where our hunters could fmd no game, nor

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 129

signs of any except a bear's track which they observed
to day. At dark we hailed at a spring on the top of a
mountain; killed another colt, and encamped there all
night.

Wednesday 18. This was a clear cold frosty morn-
ing. All our horses except one were collected early:
Six hunters went on ahead; one man to look for the
horse; and all the rest of us proceeded on our journey
over the mountains, which are very high and rough.
About twelve we passed a part where the snow was off,
and no appearance that much had lately fallen. At three
we came to snow again, and halted to take some soup,
which we made with snow water, as no other could be
found. Here the man, who had been sent for the horse
came up, but had not found him. Except on the sides
of hills where it has fallen, the country is closely timber-
ed with pitch and spruce pine, and what some call balsam-
fir. We can see no prospect of getting off these desert
mountains yet, except the appearance of a deep cove on
each side of the ridge we arc passing along. We remain-
ed here an hour and a half, and then proceeded on down
a steep mountain, and encamped after traveling 18 miles.
We had great difficulty in getting water, being obliged to
go half a mile for it down a very steep precipice.

Thursday 19. Our hunters did not join us last night,
which was disagreeably cold. About eight this morning
we set out, and proceeded on in our way over the moun-
tains; the sun shining warm and pleasant. W'e traveled
a west course, and about 12 o'clock halted at a spring to
take a little more soup. The snow is chiefly gone except
on the north points of the high mountains. At two P. M.
we again went on, and descended a steep mountain into
a cove on our left hand, where there is a large creek,
which here runs towards the east. The hills on each
side, along which the trail or path passes, are very steep.
One of our horses fell down the precipice about 100
feet, and was not killed, nor much hurt: the reason was,
that there is no bottom below, and the precipice, the only
bank, which the creek has, therefore the horse pitched
into the water, without meeting with any intervening
9

130 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

object, which could materially injure him. We made
17 miles this day and encamped on a small branch of the
creek. Having heard nothing from our hunters, we again
supped upon some of our portable soup. The men are
becoming lean and debilitated, on account of the scarcity
and poor quality of the provisions on which we subsist:
our horses' feet are also becoming very sore. We have,
however, some hopes of getiing soon out of this horrible
mountainous desert, as we have discovered the appearance
of a valley or level part of the country about 40 miles
ahead. When this discovery was made there was as
much joy and rejoicing among the corps, as happens
amor-g passengers at sea, who have experienced a dan-
gerous and protracted voyage, when they first discover
land on the long looked for coast.

Friday 20. It was late before our horses were collec-
ted, but the day was fme; and at 9 o'clock we continued
our march. Having proceeded about a mile, we came to
a small glade, where our hunters had found a horse, and
had killed, dressed and hung him up. Captain Clarke,
who had gone forward with the hunters, left a note
informing us that he and they intended to go on to the
valley or level country ahead, as there was no chance of
killing any game in these desert mountains. We loaded
the meat and proceeded along the mountains. At noon
we stopped and dined, on our horse flesh: here we discov-
ed that a horse, having Captain Lewis's clothes and bag-
gage on him, had got into the bushes while we were load-
ing the meat, and was left behind. One of the men
therefore was sent back, but returned without fmdinghim.
Two other men with a horse were then sent back, and we
continued our march along a ridge, where there are rocks,
that appear to be well calculated for making millstones;
and some beautiful tall cedars among the spruce pine.
Night came on before we got off this ridge, and we had
iimch difficulty in finding water. The soil on the western
side of the mountains appears much better than on the
east; and not so rocky. We can see the valley ahead,
but a great ways off.

Saturday 21. The morning was pleasant; but it was

132 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

late before we got our horses collected. About 10 o'clock
we were ready to start ; and passed along the ridge with
a great deal of difficulty and fatigue, our march being
much impeded by the fallen timber. A great portion of
the timber through which we passed along this ridge is
dead, and a considerable part iallen; and our horses are
weak and much jaded. One of them got into a small
swamp, and wet a bale of merchandize. About 4 o'clock
in the afternoon we got down the mountain to a creek,
which runs nearly southwest. This course we suppose
is a very good one for us. We went down this creek
about a mile, and encamped on it for the night in a small
rich bottom. Here we killed a duck and two or three
pheasants; and supped upon them and the last of our
horse meat. We also killed a wolf and cat it. The
hunters did not join us this evening, nor the two men who
went to look for the horse.

Sunday 22. This was a fine warm day. About 9
o'clock we continued our route over a ridge about a west
course, upon the top of which there is a handsome small
prairie; where we met one of our hunters with a supply
of roots, berries and some fish, which he procured from
another band of the Hathead nation of Indians. Caj)-
tain Clarke and the hunters had arrived on the 20th at
the encampment or lodges of these Indians which are in
a beautiful prairie, about eight or nine miles from this
place. The roots they use are made into a kind of bread;
which is good and nourishing, and tastes like that some-
times made of pumkins. We remained here about an
hour and then proceeded on again, down the ridge along
a very rough way; and in the evening arrived in a fine
large valley, clear of these dismal and horrible moun-
tains. Here our two men overtook us; who had found
the lost horse and clothing, but on their way to us
lost both the horses. The Indians belonging to this
band, received us kindly, appeared pleased to see us, and
gave us such provisions as they had. We were at a loss
for an interpreter, none of our interpreters being able to
understand them. Captain Clarke met us here: he had
been over at the river, and found the distance 18 mile*

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 133

and a good road from this place. lie thinks wo will bo
able to take the water again at the place he had been at;
and where he left five hunters, as there was some game
about the river in that quarter.

Monday 23. The morning was warm and pleasant.
We stayed here some time to procure provisions from the
natives, for which we gave them in exchange a number
of small articles. The provisions wliich we got consist-
ed of roots, bread and fish. Their bread is made of roots
which they call comas, and which resemble onions in
shape, but are of a sweet taste. This bread is manufac-
tured by steaming, pounding and baking the roots on a
kiln they have for the purpose. About 4 o'clock wo
renewed our journey, and went two miles to another small
village, through a beautiful rich plain, in which these
roots grow in abundance. We halted at the second
village all night and got some more provisions. About
dark a shower of rain fell.

Tuesday 24. The morning was fine, and about nine
o'clock we set forward on our march towards the river, all
but one man who had gone back to look for the horses
and another who had remained at the first villacre. The
men are generally unwell, owing to the change of diet.
The valley is level and lightly timbered with pine and
spruce trees. The soil is thin except m some small
plains, where it is of the first quality. The adjacent
country appears much the same; except that on the river
it is broken with hills and some rocks. In the valley
there are great quantities of service-berry bushes. In
the evening we arrived at the camp of our hunters on a
river about 100 yards broad, a branch of the Columbia.
The natives say it is two days march to the great river.
We encamped on a small island with our hunters who
had killed five deer, which was a very pleasing circum-
stance to us; as the Indian provisions did not agree with
us. Captain Clarke gave all the sick a dose of Rush's
Pills, to see what effect that would have. We found
some of the natives here upon the river fishing.

Wednesday 25. A fine, pleasant, warm morning.

134 JOURNAL OF LEWI.S AND CLARKE

Tho hiintors went out rarl"y and Capt.iin Clarke rode out
to see if there were any trees to be found large enough
for canoes. The men in general appear to be getting
much better; but Caj)t:iin Lowis is very sick and taking
medicine; and myself and two or three of the men are
vet ver\- unwelL The climate here is warm ; and th<;
heat to day was as great as we had experienced at anv
time during the summer. The water also is soft and
\varm, and perliaps causes our indispasition more than
imy thing else. In the evening Captain Clarke returned
to camp, having discovered a })lace about five or six miles
down the river, where a lai^c branch comes in on the
north side that will furnish timber large enough for our
purpose. Our hunters also came in, and hail killed
nothing but a small })anther and a pheasant. The man
who had remained at the first village came up.

Thursday 2(j. The morning was fine; and at 9 o'clock
we left our camp; proceeded down the river about five
miles to the forks; and pitched our camp in a handsome
small bottom opposite the point. A number of the
natives came down in small canoes, and encamped close
to us, for the purpose of fishing; and while we were
«'ncain[>ing we saw a small raft coming down the north
fork loaded with fish. There ai)pears to be a kind of
slieep in this country, besides the Ibex or mountain sheep,
and which have wool on. I saw some of the skins,
which the natives had, with wool four inches long, and as
fine, white and soft as any I had ever seen. 1 also saw
a butralo robe with its wool or fur on as fine and soft as
that of a beaver. Captain Lewis procured this, which
we considered a curiosity, in exchange for another buffalo
robe.

This band of the Flailieads have a great manv beads
and other articb's, which thev say they got from white
men at the mouth of this river; or where the salt water is.
They have a large stock of horses. Their buffalo robes
and other skins they chiefly procure on the Missouri,
when they go over to hunt, as there are no buffalo in this
part of the country and very little other game. The
most of the men of this band are at present on a war

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 13*

expedition against some nation to the northwest, that had
killed some of their people; as we understood in our im-
perfect communications with them. We arranged our
camp and made preparations for making canoes.

Friday 27. A fine warm morning. All the men, who
were able were employed in making canoes. About 10
o'clock the man came in who had gone to look for the
horses, he had found one of th^m and killed a deer.
I feel much relieved from my indisposition.

In the evening the graater part of the war party came
in, and some of the principal men came down to our
camp. We could not understand what ih^y had done,
as we could only convers3 by signs. Medals were given
by the Commanding Offic3rs, to three or four of them as
leading men of their nation; and they remained about
our camp. The river below the fork is about 200 yards
wide; the water is clear a3 crystal, from two to five feet
deep, and abounding with salmon of an excellent quality.
The bottom of the river is stony and ihe banks chiefly
composed of a round hard species of stone.

Saturday 28. We had a pleasant morning and all
hands, that were able, employed at the canoes. Game is
very scarce and our hunters unable io kill any meat. We
are therefore obliged to live on fish and roots, that we
procure from the natives; and which do not appear a sui-
table diet for us. Salt also is scarce without which fish
is but poor and insipid. Our hunters killed nothing to
day.

Sunday 29. A fine day; all our hunters went out., and
all the men able to work, were employed at the Canoes.
At noon two of our hunters came in with three deer; a
very welcome sight to the most of us. Five or six of the
men continue unwell.

Monday 30. The weather continued pleasant; and
our hunters killed a deer.

Tuesday, October 1, 1805. This was a fine pleasant
warm day. All the men are now able to work; but the
greater number are very weak. To save them from
hard labor, we have adopted the Indian method of burning
out the canoes.

136 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

Wednesday 2. Two men wore sent to ihe Indian
village to purchase some provisions as our hunters do not
kill enough for us to subsist on. And least the Indian
provisions should not agree with us, we killed one of our
horses,

On the third, the men were employed as usual; on the
morning of the fourth there was a white frost, after it a
fine day. In the evening our men returned, with a good
supply of such provisions as the natives have.

Saturday 5. Having got pretty well forward in our
canoe making, we collected all our horses and branded
them, in order to leave them with the Indians, the old
chief having promised that they should be well taken
care of. In the evening we got two of our canoes into the
water.

During the sixth most of the hands were engaged at the
other canoes; and we buried our saddles and some am-
munition. The morning of the seventh was pleasant, and
we put the last of our canoes into the water; loaded them,
and found that they carried all our baggage with conven-
ience. We had four large ones; and one small one, to
look ahead. About 3 o'clock in the afternoon we began
our voyage down the river, and found the rapids in some
places Very dangerous. One of our canoes s))rung a leak.
We therefore halted and mended her, after going 20
miles. The hills come close on the river on both sides;
where there are a few pine trees. Back from the river
the tops of the hills, to a great distance are prairie land;
and the country level.

Tuesday 8. At 9 o'clock in a fme morning we con-
tinued our voyage down the river: passed three islands
and several rapids; and at noon stopped at some Indian
lodges, of which there are a great many along the river.
At two we proceeded on again. In the evening, in pass-
infT ihroucrh a rapid, I had my canoe stove, and she sunk.
Fortunately the water was not more than waist deep, so
our lives and baggage were saved, though the latter was
wet. We halted "and encamped here to repair the canoe,
after coming 10 miles. At this place there are some lod-
ges of the natives on both sides of the river; a number of

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 137

whom keep about us, and we get some fish from them.
Two chiefs of the upper village joined us here, and pro-
posed to go on with us, until we should meet with white
people; which they say will be at no great distance.

Wednesday 9. We stayed here during the whole of this
day, which was very pleasant, and repaired our canoe.
In the evening we got her completed and all the baggage
dry. Here our old Snake guide deserted and took his
son with him. I suspect he was afraid of being cast
away passing the rapids. At dark one of the squaws,
who keep about us, took a crazy fit, and cut her arms from
the wrists to the shoulders, with a flint; and the natives
had great trouble and difficulty in getting her pacified.
We have some Frenchmen, who prefer dog-flesh to fish;
and they here got two or three dogs from the Indians.
All the country around is high prairie, or open plains.

Thursday 10. We had a fine morning; embarked
early, and passed over some very bad rapids. In passing
over one, a canoe sprung a leak, but did not sink; though
the greater part of the loading was wet; and we had to
halt and dry it. We stopped a short distance above the
junction of this with another large river. The natives
call this eastern branch Koos-koos-ke, and the western
Ki-mo-ee-nem. Yesterday evening I had a fit of the
ague, and have been very unwell to day; so much so that
1 am unable to steer my canoe. In about two hours we
continued our voyage again; we found the southwest
branch very large, and of a goslin-green color. About a
mile below the confluence we halted on the north side
and encamped for the night, as the wind blew so hard we
could not proceed. W^e came 20 miles to day.

Friday 11. We set out early in a fine morning; pro-
ceeded on about six miles, and halted at some lodges of
the natives, where we got fish and several dogs. We
continued here about an hour and then went on. No
accident happened to day though we passed some bad
rapids. In the evening we stopped at some Indian camps
and remained all night, having come 30 miles. Here we
got more fish and dogs. Most of our people having
been accustomed to meat, do not relish the fish, but pre-

138 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

for dog meat; wliich, when well cooked, tastes very well,
Here we met an Indian of anotlier nation, who informed
us we could get to the falls in four days: wliich 1 presume
are not very hiarh as the salmon come ahovc them in
abundance. The country on both sides is high dry
])rairio |)lains without a stick of timber. There is no
wood of any kind to be seen except a few small willows
along the shore; so that it is with difhcully we can get
enouifh to cook with. The hills on the river are not verv
high, but rocky; the rocks of a dark color. The bed
and shores of the river are very stony; and the stones of
a round smooth kind.

Saturdry 12. \Ve had a fine morning and proceeded
on early. Two of the Flathead chiefs remained on
board with us, and two of their men went with the
stranger in a small canoe, and acted as pilots or guides.
We saw some ducks and a few geese, but did not kill any
of them. There is no four footed game of any kind
near this part of the river, that we could discover; and
we saw no birds of any kind, but a few hawks, eagles
and crows. At noon we halted, cooked and eat some
fish, and then proceeded on. The country and river this
day is mucii the same in appearance as that we passed
yesterday. A little before sunset we came to a bad rapid,
which we did not wish to pass at night, so we encamped
above on the north side, having made 30 miles.

Some of the Flathead nation of Indians live all along
the river this far down. There arc not more than four
lodges in a place or village, and these small camps or
villages arc eight or ten miles apart: at each camp there
are five or six small canoes. Their summer lodges are
made of willows and flags, and their winter lodges of
split pine, almost like rails, which they bring down on
rafts to this part of the river where there is no timber.

Sunday 13. This was a cloudy wet morning, and we
did not set out till 11 o'clock: we then proceeded with
two canoes at a time over the rapids, which arc about two
miles in lenmhiand in about two hours "oi all over safe.
We then went on again and passed more bad rapids, but
got through safe. In the afternoon the weather cleared

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 139

nnd we had a fine evening. Having gone 23 miles we
encamped on the North side. The country continues
much the same, all high dry prairie. One handsome
creek comes in on the south side.

Monday 14. We emharked early in a fine clear cool
morning; passed some rapids; and at eleven came to one
very had, but we got over without injury. We saw some
geese aiid ducks this forenoon and killed some of the
ducks. About 1 o'clock a canoe hit a rock, and part of
her sunk, and a number of the things floated out. With
the assistance of the other canoes all the men n;ot safe to
shore; but the baggage was wet, and some articles were
lost. We halted on an island to dry the baggage, having
come 14 miles.

CHAPTER XIV.

Tuesday 15. This day was fine, clear and pleasant; and
we continued here until the afternoon to dry our baggage
that had been wet yesterday. The natives have great
quantities of tlsh deposited on this island- * At 3 o'clock
P. M. we got all our effects on board and proceeded on.
Passed down a beautiful part of the river; and killed some
geese and ducks. This river in general is very handsome,
except at the rapids, where it is risking both life and pro-
perty to pass; and even these rapids, when the bare \'iew
or prospect is considered distinct from the advantages of

* Immense numbers of salmon must ascend the western rivers
every summer from the Pacific, and constitute a chief article in
the food of the natives. Mr. M'Kenzie informs us that in the river,
by which he arrived at the ocean, where it empties itself four or five
hundred miles nortliwest of the mouth of the Columbia, the
salmon are so abundant, that the natives have a constant and plen-
tiful supply of that excellent fish. He also on his return states,
under the date of the 6th and 7lh of Au^st, that the salmon in
the waters of the Columbia were driving up the current in such
large shoals, that the water seemed to be covered with the fins of
them.

140 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

navijTaiion, may add to its beauty, by interposing variety
and scones of romantic frrandeur where there is so much
uniformity in the appearance of the country. We went
18 miles this evening and halted at an old Indian camp
on the north side, where we had great difficulty in procur-
ing wood to cook with, as none at all grows in this part
of the country.

Wednesday 16. We had a fine mornins: and embark-
ed early; proceeded on about three miles, when one of
our canoes run upon some rocks in a rapid, but by
unloading another canoe and sending it to her assistance,
we got all safe to land, and then continued our voyage.
About 1 o'clock we came to another rapid, where all
hands carried a load of the baggage by land about a mile,
and then took the canoes over the rapids, two at a time,
and in that way we got them all down safe and proceeded
on. Having gone 21 miles we arrived at the great
Columbia river, which comes in from the northwest. *
W^e found here a number of natives, of whose nations
we have not yet found out the names, ^^'e encamped
on the point between the two rivers. The country all
round is level, rich and beautiful, but without timber.

* The size, course and appearance of this great river, seem to con-
firm beyond a doubt the opinion of Mr. M'Kcnzie, who supposed
that the large river, into which the branch he descended on tlie west
side of the Rocky Mountains, liaving its source in these mountains
near that of the Unjigah or Peace river, discliarges its waters into
the large river in latitude about 54'-' nortli, and longitude 122'*' west
from London, or 47"^ west from Philadelphia, was the Columbia.
The information he obtained from the Indians respecting this river
before he left the Unjigah was, "that it was a large river and run
towards the mid-day sun; but did not empty itself into the sea."
This opinion of these natives at a distance, with respect to its not
emptying itself into the sea, must have arisen chiefly from what
they had heard of its course, which is east of south and nearly par-
allel to the coast of the Pacific, and of the great distance it contin-
ued to run in that direction. The accounts he received after arriv-
ing at it, ihrre called the Great river, or Tacoutche Tesse, also stated
that it ran towards the mid-day sun; and that at its mouth, as the
natives said they had been informed, white people were building
houses. Mr. M'Kenzic having descended the river some distance,
prevailed on a chief to delineate a sketch of the country on a largo
piece of barkj in wliich he described the river as running to tliu

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 141

Thursday 17. We remained here all day for the
purpose of taking an observation. We got a number of
dogs from the natives. Salmon are very plenty but poor
and dying, and therefore not fit for provisions. In the
plains are a great many hares and a number of fowls,
between the size of a pheasant and turkey, called heath
hens or grous. We killed a great many of these fowls
which are very good eating. The small river, which we
called Flathead and afterwards Clarke's river, is a branch
of the Great Columbia, and running a northwest course,
falls into it a considerable distance above this place ; we
therefore never passed the mouth of that river.

The Columbia here is 860 yards wide, and the
Ki-moo-ee-nem (called Lewis's river from its junction
with the Koos-koos-ke) 475 yards. They are both very
low at this place. Our course since we took water has
been a few degrees south of west: here the Columbia
turns to the east of south.

Friday 18. This was also a fine day and we remained
here till after 12 o'clock. In the forenoon our Command-
ing Officers were employed in getting specimens of the
language of the natives, there being three, or part of
three, different nations here. They are almost without

east of south, receiving many rivers, and every six or eight leagues,
encumbered with falls and rapids, some of them A'ery dangerous
and six impracticable. He represented the carrying places as of
great length, and passing over hills and mountains. He depicted
the lands of three other tribes in succession who spoke different
languages. Beyond them he knew nothing of the river or country,
only that it was still a long way to the sea; and that, as he had
heard, there was a lake before they reached the water, which the
natives did not drink.

"The more I heard of the river," says Mr. M'Kenzie, "the more
I was convinced it could not empty itself into the ocean to the north
of what is called the river of the West, so that with its windings
the distance must be very great." It is not improbable that tlie
distance by water, from the place Mr. M'Kenzie struck this river,
to its mouth (supposing it to be the Columbia, Oregon or Great
River of the West,) is upwards of 1000 miles, and its whole course
from its source 1500. By the lake mentioned by the Indian chief
is no doubt meant the bay at the mouth of the Columbia, and wide
part of the river where the tide water ascends and renders the
whole unfit to drink.

142 JOITvNAL or LEWIS AND CLARKE

clothing, having no covering of any account, except
some deer skin robes and a few leggins of the same;
materials. The women have scarce sufficient to cover
their nakedness. Captain Lewis -had an observation at
noon, which gave 46*^ 15. 13. .9. north latitude. At one
we proceeded on down the Great Columbia, which is a
very beautiful river. The course is something to the
east of south for about 12 miles, and then winds round to
almost a west course. We passed some islands and a
number of the camjis of the natives, which appear to be
very shv and distant. We went 21 miles and halted close
below an Indian cam}); where they have tliirty canoes;
and a great quantity of dried fish.

Saturday 19. Tlie morning was clear and pleasant,
with some white frost. A number of the natives came
to our camp, and our Commanding Officers presented one
of them with a medal and otiier small articles. At 8
o'clock we proceeded on; passed some islands and bad
raj)ids, but no accident happened. We also passed a
great many Indian camps. In the whole country around
there are only level j)lains, except a few hills on some
[)arts of the river. \Ve went 36 miles and halted oppo-
site a largo Indian camp; and about 36 canoe loads of
them came over to see us; some of whom remained all
night; but we could not have much conversation with
them as we did not understand their language. They
are clothed much in the same manner with those at the
forks above. The custom prevjiils among these Indians
of burying all the })roperty of the deceased, with the
body. Amongst these savages when any of tliem die,
his baskets, bags, clothing, horses and other properly are
all interred: even his canoe is split into pieces and set up
round his grave.

Sunday 20. A fine clear frostv mornins;. We set
out early; passed along a handsome part of the river;
saw some pelicans and gulls. And as the shores are
lined with dead salmon, thez'e are abundance of crows
and ravens. Vast (juaiitities of these fish die at this time
of the year. At noon we came to an Indian camp cm
the point of a large island, where wc sioj)ped and got

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 143

some fish and other provisions. We here saw some arti-
cles which shewed that white people had hcen here or
not far distant during the summer. They have a hem-
pen seine and some ash paddles which they did not mako
themselves. At 1 o'clock we proceeded on again, went
42 miles, and encamped without any of the natives being
along, which is unusual on this river. We could not get
a single stick of wood to cook with; and had only a few
small green willows.

Monday 21. We continued our voyage at an early
hour, and had a fine morning. At ten, we came to the
lodges of some of the natives, and halted with them
about two hours. Here we got some bread, made of a
small white root, which grows in this part of the country.
We saw amono; them some small robes made of the skins
of grey squirrels, some racoon skins, and acorns, which
are signs of a timbered country not far distant. Having
proceeded on again, we passed several more lodges of
Indians; and through two very rocky rapid parts of the
river with great difficulty. We went 32 miles and
encamped at some Indian lodges, where we procured
wood from the natives to cook with.

Tuesday 22. The morning was fine and we went on
early, and saw a great number of ducks, geese and gulls.
At 10 o'clock we came to a large island, where the river
has cut its way through the point of a high hill. Opposite
to this island a large river comes in on the south side, called
bv the natives the Sho-sho-ne or Snake-Indian river; and
which has large rapids close to its mouth. This, or the
Ki-moo-ee-nem, is the same river, whose head waters we
saw at the Snake nation.

The natives are very numerous on the island and all
along the river. Their lodges are of bulrushes and flags,
made into a kind of mats, and formed into a hut or lodge.

About three miles lower down we came to the first falls
or great rapids; and had 1300 yards of a portage overbad
ground. All our baggage was got over this evening and
we encamped with it; but are not certain whether we can
take our canoes by water. Our voyage to day, to the
head of the rapids or falls Was 18 miles.

144 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

Wednesday 23. A pleasant day. At 9 o'clock in
the forenoon all hands, but three left to keep camp, went
up and took the canoes over to the south side; as the
natives said that was the best side of the river to take
them down. Here we had to drag them 450 yards round
the first j)iich which is 20 feet perpendicular. We then
])Ut them into the water and let them down the rest of
the way by cords. The whole height of the falls is 37
feet eight inches, in a distance of 1200 yards. In the
evening we got all our canoes safe down to the encamp-
ment on the north side. The natives are very numerous
about these falls, as it is a great fishing place in the spring
of the year. The country on both sides of the river
here is high, and the bluffs rocky. Captain Lewis had
an observation, which made the latitude of this place 45°
42. 57. 3. North. We got several dogs from these
Indians, which we find strong wholesome diet. The
high water mark below the falls is 48 feet, and above only
10 feet four inches from the surface of the water: so that
in high water there is nothing but a rapid, and the salmon
can pass up without difficulty. The reason of this rise
in the water below the falls is, that for three miles down,
the river is so confined by rocks (being not more than 70
yards wide) that it cannot discharge the water, as fast as
it comes over the falls, until what is defficient in breadth
is made up in depth. About the great })itch the appear-
ance of the place is terrifying, with vast rocks, and the
river below the pitch, foaming through difierent channels.

Thursday 24. We had a fine morning and proceed-
ed on early; found the water very rapid below the falls;
and having gone four miles below the narrows, came to
other narrows still more confined and the rocks higher.
At the head of these narrows we halted about 2 o'clock
at a great Indian village, and remained there all night.
We got fish and dogs from the natives, and some berries,
different from any we got before, some call them cran-
berries; whether of the real kind or not I am not certain.
In our way down to day we saw a great many sea otters
swimming in the river, and killed some, but could not get
tltem as they sunk to the bottom. This village has better

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 145

lodges than any on the river above; one story of which
is sunk under ground aiid lined with flag mats: The
upper part about 4 feet above ground is covered over
with cedar bark, and they are tolerably comfortable
houses.

Friday 25. We found there were bad rapids in the
narrows and therefore carried over part of our baggage
by land, about three quarters of a mile; and then took
the canoes over, one at a time. In goirg over one of
them filled with water, on account of which we were
detained three hours. The rapids continued three or
four miles, when the river became more placid. At
night we came to a place where there is a considerable
quantity of timber on the hills; both oak and pine, and
encamped at the mouth of a creek on the south side.
The natives about here are, or pretend to be, very uneasy,
and say the Indians below will kill us. We purchased
from them a quantity of dried pounded fish, which they
had prepared in that way for sale. Thc^y have six scaf-
folds of a great size for the purpose of dryiiig their fish
on.

Saturday 26. A fine morning. We hauled up all
our canoes to dress and repair them, as they had been
injured in parsing over the portage, round ih3 lalls. Some
hunters went out and killed six deer and some squirrels.
In the afternoon about 20 of the natives came to our
camp (among whom were the head chiefs of the two
villages about the falls,) who had been out hunting when
we passed down. The Commanding Officers gave medals
to the chiefs, and some other small articles; and they
appeared satisfied and some remained with us all night.

Sunday 27. This was a fine clear morning, but the
wind blew very hard up the river, and we remamed here
all day. This is the first hunting ground we have had
for a long time, and some of our men went out. Part of
the natives remained with us; but we cannot find out to
what nation they belong. We suppose them to b3 a band
of the Flathead nation, as all their heads are compressed
into the same form; though they do not speak exactly the
same language, but there is no great difference, and this
10

146 JOURNAL OF LEWLS AND CLARKE

may be a dialect of the same. Tliis singular and deform-
ing ()})craiion is performed in infancy in the Ojllowing
manner. A piece of board is placed iigainst the back of
the head extending from the shoulders some distance
above it; another shorter piece extends from the eye
brows to the top of the first, and they are then bound
together with thongs or cords made of skins, so as to
press back the forjhead, make the head rise at the top,
and force it out above the cars. In the evening our hun-
trrs came in and had killed four deer and some squirrels.
The wind blew hard all this dav.

Monday 28. Just before day light there was a shower
of rain; but at sunrise the morning was fine and clear.
At 8 o'clock we embarked, went about four miles, and
halted at a small village of the natives and got some dogs
from them. Hero we stayed about an hour and proceed-
ed on again for about a mile, when we were compelled
to stop on account of the wind, which blew so hard ahead
that we were unable to continue our voyage. In the
course of the day there were some shuvvers of rain,
la the evening one of the men wont out and killed a
fine deer. We were in a good safe harbor and remained
there all night, accompanied by the natives.

Tuesday 29. We embarked early in a cloudy morn-
ing; passed high hills on both sides of the river, on which
there was |)ine timber; and some birch on the banks of
the river. At breakfast time we stopt at a small village
of the natives and purchased some more dogs: then pro-
ceeded on; passed a number more Indian camps, and a
high mountainous country on both sides. In the evening
we discovered a high mounlain to the south, not more
than five miles olF, covered with snow. We have here
still water; and the breadth of the river is from three
tjuariers to a mile. We went 23 miles and encamped at
a small village on the north side.

Wednesday 30. The morning was cloudy; the river
and country we found much the same as yesterday. At
noon we stopped to dine and one of the men went out
and kilbida large buck. A number of fine springs come
down the hills on liic South side: and w^^ passed a small

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 147

river on the north. In the evening we came to the head
of falls, where there is a large Indian village. On our
way down we saw a great many swans, geese and ducks;
and a number of sea otter. There are some small bot-
toms along the river, with cotton wood on them, and on
the banks of the river some white oak, ash and hazlenut.
At a distance there are ponds which abound with geese
and ducks. It rained hard all day, and we came only
15 miles.

Thursday 31. The morning was cloudy. We unload-
ed our canoes and took them past the rapids, some part
of the way by water, and some over rocks 8 or 10 feet
high. It was the most fatiguing business we have been
engaged in for a long time, and we got but two over all
day, the distance about a mile, and the fall of the water
about 25 feet in that distance. »

Friday, November 1, 1805. We had a cool frosty
morning. We carried down our baggage before break-
fast as we could not go into the water, without uneasiness
on account of the cold. In the forenoon we took down
the other two canoes. A number of the natives with
four canoes joined us here from above. Their canoes
were loaded with pounded salmon, which they were
taking down the river to barter for beads and other
articles.

Saturday 2. There is here a small rapid below the
falls, where the men had to carry part of the baggage
across a portage of two miles and a half, while the rest
took down the canoes. At 12 o'clock we proceeded on
again; passed a narrow rapid part of the river of about
eight miles, the hills on both sides are very high, and a
number of fine springs flowing out of them, some of
which fall 200 feet perpendicular. The hills are mostly
solid rocks. On our way we passed two Indian lodges.
At the end of eight miles, the river opens to the breadth
of a mile, with a gentle current. We came 23 miles,
and encamped at a high peak resembling a tower on the
south side. The country here becomes level, and the
river broader. One of the Indian canoes remained with
us and the other three went on. On our way and at
camp we killed 17 geese and brants.

148 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

SiincUiy 3. The morning was foggy: one of the men
went out and killed a fine buck. At nine we proceeded
on, but could not see the country we were passing, on
account of the fog, which was very thick till noon when
it disappeared, and we had a beautiful day. We at that
time came to the mouih of a river on the south side, a
quarter of a mile broad, but not more than six or eight
inches deep, running over a bar of quicksand. At this
place we dined on venison and goose; and from which
we can see the high point of a mountain covered with
snow, in about a southeast direction from us. Our Com-
manding Officers are of opinion that it is Mount Hood,
discovered by a Lieutenant of Vancoover, who was up
this river 75 miles. The river that falls in here has two
mouths, through which it drives out a considerable quan-
tity of sand into the Columbia. Opposite the lower
mouth there is a handsome island. At 2 o'clock we pro-
ceeded on, and passed another island. The country on
both sides appears level and closely timbered: on the
river the timber is cotton wood, maple and some ash;
and back from it mostly spruce pine. We made 13 miles
and encamped on a large island, in which is a large pond
full of swans, geese and ducks. On our way and here
we killed some of each kind. At night. Captain Lewis
had a small canoe carried over to the pond in order to
hunt by moon light, but the party did not happen to have
good luck, having killed only a swan and three ducks.

CHAPTER XV.

Monday 4. A fine morning. We embarked early;
passed two large islands, and a beautiful part of the river,
The tide raised the water last night two feet. We went
about seven miles and came to a large Indian village,
where they informed us that in two days we would come
to two ships with white people in them. The Indians

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 149

other articles which they got from these ships. We got
some dogs and roots from the natives. The roots are of
a superior quality to any I had before seen: they are
called whapto; resemble a potatoe when cooked, and are
about as big as a hen egg. Game is more plenty here
than up the river, and one of the men killed a deer this
morning. At this camp of the natives they have 52
canoes, well calculated for riding waves. We proceeded
on, and passed some handsome islands, and down a beau-
tiful part of the river. We also passed a number of
Indian lodges; and saw a great many swans, geese, ducks,
cranes, and gulls. We went 28 miles and encamped on
the north side. In the evening we saw Mount Rainy
on ths same side. It is a handsome point of a mountain
with little or no timber on it, very high, and a considera-
ble distance otf this place.

Tuesday 5. We embarked very early. Some rain fell
last night about 2 o'clock, and the morning was cloudy.
We passed several handsome islands, generally near the
shore, on the one side or the other of the river.
The country on both side is somewhat higher than
what we passed yesterday, and closely covered with
spruce timber. The bottoms are large, covered with
cotton wood, maple, and the like kinds of wood. We
passed a great many Indian camps, their lodges made
chiefly of poles and cedar bark. At noon we stopped
about an hour at an island, and some of the men went
out and killed nine brants and a swan. Three of the
brants were quite white except the points of their wings,
which were black. We proceeded on in the afternoon,
during which some rain and a little hail fell; went 31
miles and encamped on the north side. Here the tide
rises and falls four feet.

Wednesday 6. We set out early in a cloudy morning
after a disagreeable night of rain. Saw a number of
the natives, going up and down the river in canoes. Also
passed some of their lodges. The Indians in this part
of the country have but few horses, their intercourse
and business being chiefly by water. The high land
here have a great deal of new cloth among them, and

150 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

comes more close on the river in this part. Having gone
29 miles we encamped on the souili side.

Thursday 7. We set out again early in a foggy
morning; went about six miles and came to an Indian
camp, were we got some fresh fish and dogs. The dress
of the squaws here is difTjrcnt from that of those up the
river; it consists of a long fringe made of soft bark,
which they tie round the waist, and which comes down
almost to their knees; and of a small robe, made out of
small skins cut into thongs and wove somewhat like
carpeting. We remained here about two hours and then
])roceeded on. At this place the river is about three
miles wide, with a number of small islands, and the
country broken. In the evening we came to a part of
the river, where it is five miles broad. We went 34
miles and encamped on the south side at the mouth of a
fme spring.

Friday 8. We embarked early. The morning was
cloudy, and there was a hard wind from the east. We
went about five miles and came to a bay 32 or 14 miles
wide. We had to coast round it, as the wind raised the
waves so high we could s:o no other way. We halted and
dined at a point on the north side of the bay where a
small liver comes in. We again proceeded on coasting,
till we came to a point of land where the bay becomes
narrower; and the water quite salt. The waves here ran
so high we were obliged to lie to, and let the tide leave
our canoes on dry ground. This point we called Cape
Swell ; and the bay above. Shallow Bay, as there is no
great depth of water. In crossing the bay when the tide
was out, some of our men got sea sick, the swells were
so great. In it there are a great many swans, geese,
ducks and other water fowls. The whole of this day
was wet and disagreeable; and the distance we made, in
a strait line, was not more than nine miles; though the
distance we coasted was above 20 miles.

Saturday 9. The morning was windy, rainy and dis-
agreeable, and we were obliged to remain at Cape Swell
all day and unload our canoes to prevent them from
sinking; notwithstanding some of them did sink when

152 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

the tide came in at noon. We had no fresh water,
ex'ccpi what rain we caught by putting out our vessels.
We remained here all night, and the rain continued.

Sunday 10. We had a rainy morning, but the wind
was not so high as it had been yesterday; and we set out
from Cape Swell, coasted along for eight miles, passed
some high clilfs of sandy rocks, and then came a point;
where wc found the swells so high, the wind having
risen, that we could not proceed: so we had to return
back about a mile to get a safe harbor. Here we dined on
some pounded sahnon, that we had procured from the
Indians; and unloaded our canoes- After we had been
here about two hours, it became more calm and we loaded
the cano3S again, but could not get round the point, the
swells were still so high; we therefore put too at a branch
of fresh water, under high cliffs of rocks and unloaded
again. Hero we had scarcely room to lie between the
rocks and water; but we made shift to do it among some
drift wood ihat had baen beat up by the tide. It rained
hard all nicrht and was very disagreeable. While on our
way down to day we saw some porpoises, sea otter and a
great many sea gulls. The water is become very salt.

Monday 11. The morning was very wet and the
wind still blowing, so that we could not proceed; we there-
fore built \ai2:2 fires and made our situation as comforta-
ble as possible, but still bad enough, as we have no tents,
or covering to defend us, except our blankets and some
mats we got from the Indians, which we put on poles to
keep off the rain. It continued raining and blowing all
day; and at 4 o'clock in the afternoon the tide was so
high that wo had to leave our lodges, until it got lower
in the evening. Some of the men went about 40 perches
up the river and caught 15 fine large fish.

Tuesday 12. A cloudy wet morning, after a terrible
night of rain, hail, thunder and lightning. We thought
it b; s; to move our camp, and fixed our canoes and load-
ed them with stones to keep them down. We went about
the eighth of a mile from this place, and fixed ourselves
as well as we could, and remained all night. The rain
still continued, and the river remained very rough.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 153

Wednesday 13. This was another disagreeable rainy
day, and we remained at camp being unable to get away.
At 9 o'clock in the forenoon it became a little more calm
than usual; and three men took a canoe, which we got
from the Indians of a kind excellent for riding swells,
and set out to go to the point on the sea shore, to ascer-
tain whether there were any white people there, or if
they were gone.

Thursday 14. We expected last night to have been
able to proceed on this morning, but the rain continued,
and the river still remained rough; and we are therefore
obliged to lie by. About noon one of the three men who
had gone in the canoe, returned having broke the lock of
his gun: but the other two went on by land, as the swells
ran so high that they could not possibly get the canoe
along. About the same time some Indians in a canoe
came up the river, and had stolen a gig from the men;
but the one we returned got it from them again when he
came up. In the evening Captain Lewis with four men
started by land to see if any white people were to be
found. The rest remained in camp; and the weather
continued wet, and the most disagreeable I had ever seen.

Friday 15. This morning the weather appeared to
settle and clear off, but the river remained still rough.
So we were obliged to continue here until about 1 o'clock,
when the weather became more calm, and we loaded
and sf^t out from our disagreeable camp; went about three
miles, when we came to the mouth of the river, where
it empties into a handsome bay. Here we halted on a
sand beach, formed a comfortable camp, remained in full
view of the ocean, at this time more raging than pacific.
One of the two men who first went out came to us here,
the other had joined Captain Lems's party. Last night
the Indians had stolen their arms and accoutrements, but
restored them on the arrival of Captain Lewis and his
men in the morning.

Saturday 16. This was a clear morning and the wind
pretty high. We could see the waves, like small moun-
tains, rolling out on the ocean, and pretty bad in the bay.

151 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

CHAPTER XVI.

"We aro now at tbo end of our voyage, wliich has
been completely accomplisbod according to the intention
of the expedition, the object of wliicb \va.s to discover a
passj^e by the way of the Missouri and Cobnnbia rivers
to the Pacific ocean; notwithstanding the difficuhies, pri-
vations and dangers, which w^e had to encounter, endure
and surmount.

This morning five of the men went out to hunt; and
about 3 o'clock all cams in but one. They had killed
tv/o deer, nine brants, two geese, one crane, and three
ducks. The day being clear we got all our baggage
dried, and in good order; and quietly rested until Captain
Lewis and his painy should return.

Sunday 17. We had a fine pleasant clear morning,
and six hunters went out. About noon they all came in ;
but the hunter wdio remained out last ni^ht did not return.
He had killed two deer and the other men brought them
in with some brants and a deer they had killed. About
the same time Captain Lewis, and his party returned.
They had b^'on round the bay, and seen where white
people had baen in the course of the summer: but they
had all sailed away. Ca})iain Lewis and his pany killed
a deer and some brants. In the evening the rjmaining

hunter came ia and had killed another deer.

There are but few Indians settled down about the
seashore; their dress is similar to that of some of those
above. The women have a kind of fringe petticoats,
made of filaments or tassels of the white cedar bark
wrought with a string at the upper part, which is tied
round the waist. These tassels or fringe are of some
use as a covering, while the ladies are standing erect and
the weather calm; but in any other position, or when
the wind blows, their charms have but a j)recarious
defence.

A number of both sexes keep about our camp; some
have robes made of muskrat skins sewed together, and
I saw some of loon-skins. Their diet is chiefly fish and
roots.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 155

MEMORANDUM.

Of the computed distance in miles to the furthercst point

of discovery on the Pacific Ocean, from the place

where the canoes were deposited near the head ot the

INIissouri, which from its mouth is 3096

From the place of deposit to head spring, - 24

To first fork of the Sho-sho-ne river, - 14

To first large fork down the river, - - 18

To forks of the road at mouth of Tour creek - 14

To Fishing creek, after leaving the river, - 23

To Flathead, or Clarke's river at Fish camp, - 41

To the mouth of Travelers-rest creek, - "76

To the foot of the great range of Mountains,

east side, - - - - 12
To ditto ditto ditto

west side. - - - - 130

To the Flathead village in a plain, - - 3

To the Koos-koos-ke river, - - - 18

To the Canoe camp, at the forks, . - 6

To the Ki-moo-ce-nem , . - - 60

To the Great Columbia, by Lewis's river, - 140

To the mouth of the Sho-sho-ne, or Snake river, 162

To the Great Falls of Columbia, . . 6

To the Short Narrows, - - - - 3

To the Long ditto - - - - 3

To the mouth of Cataract river, north side, - 23

To the Grand Shoot, or Rapids, - - 42

To the Last Rapids, or Strawberry island, - 6

To the mouth of Quicksand river, south side, - 26

To Shallow Bay, at salt water, - - 136

To Blustry Point, on north side, - - 13

To Point Open-Slope, below encampment, - 3

To Chin-Ook river at bottom of Haley's Bay, 12

To Cape Disappointment on Western ocean, 13

To Capt. Clarke's tour N. W. along coast, 10

miles 4133

Monday 18. The morning was cloudy. Captain

15G JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

Clarke and ten men went down to Cape Disappointment,
to get a more full view of the ocean; and three went out
to hunt. In the course of the day we got some dried
salmon and roots from the natives. In the evening our
hunters came in with a deer, two brants, and a squirrel,
a hawk, and a flounder, which the tide had thrown on a
sand bar. The Indians still remained with us and Capt.
Lewis got a specimen of their language. Those, who
live about the seashores, and on Rogue's harbor creek,
a large creek that comes in on the north side of the bay,
call themselves the Chin-ook nation.

Tuesday 19. We had a cloudy, rainy morning; but
some of the hunters went out. About 1 o'clock the
natives, who had, baen with us some time, went away;
and at four another party of the same nation came, and
encamped close by us. They consisted of 15 men and
one squaw. The dress of tha squaw was the same with
those of the others. Several of the men have robes
made of brant skins: one of them had a hat made of the
bark of white cedar and beargrass, very handsomely
wrought and water proof. One of our party purchased
it for an old razor. Our hunters killed three deer to day.

Wednesday 20. We had a fine clear morning; the
Indians remained at our camp; and Captain Lewis gave
one of them a medal, as he ranked as a chief in the
nation. . One of the men went out to hunt in the morn-
ing, and in a short time killed two deer. This day con-
tinued clear and pleasant throughout. At 4 o'clock in
the afternoon Captain Clarke and his party returned to
camp, and had killed a deer and some brants. They
had been about 10 miles north of the cape, and found
the country along the seashore level, with spruce-pine
timber, and some prairies and ponds of water. They
killed a remarkably largo buzzard, of a species different
from any I had seen. It was nine feet across the wings,
and three feet 10 inches from the bill to the tail. They
found some pumice stones, which had been thrown out
by the waves, of a quality superior to those on the Mis-
souri; also a number of shells of diflxjrent kinds.

Thursday 21. A cloudy morning. About 8 o'clock

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 157

all the natives left us. The wind blew so violent to day,
and the waves ran so high, that we could not set out on
our return, which is our intention to do as soon as the
weather and water will permit. The season being so far
advanced, we wish to establish our winter quarters as
soon as possible. One of the natives here had a robe
of sea-otter skins, of the finest fur I ever saw; which
the Commanding Officers wanted very much, and offer-
ed two blankets for it, which the owner refused, and
said he would not take five. He wanted beads of a blue
color, of which we had none, but some that were on a
belt belonging to our interpreter's squaw; so they gave
him the belt for the skins. In the evening more of the
natives came to our camp, and the night was very wet
and disagreeable.

Friday 22. This was a rainy and stormy morning;
and we were not yet able to set out: the wind blew very
hard from the south, and the river was rougher than it
has been since we came here. At noon the tide was
higher than common, and one of our canoes got among
some logs, and was split. The rain and wind continued
all day violent.

Saturday 23. The weather was somewhat cloudy but
more calm. Some of the men went out to hunt and
some to mend the canoe which had been split in the
storm yesterday. The natives still stay with us, and
have a few roots and berries to subsist on at present; but
I cannot conjecture how they live during the winter.
They have no moccasons or leggins of any kind; and
scarce any other covering than the small robes, which
were mentioned before.

In the afternoon 10 of the Clat-sop nation, that live
on the south side of the river came over to our camp.
These are also naked, except the small robes which
hardly covers their shoulders. One of these men had
the reddest hair I ever saw, and a fair skin much freckled.
In the evening our hunters came in, and had killed three
deer, eight brants and 12 ducks. In the evening the
weather cleared and we had a fine night.

Sunday 24. The morning was fine with some white

153 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

frost. As this was a fine clear day, it was thought pro-
per to remain here in order to take some observations,
which the bad weather had before rendered impossible.
The latitude of this bay was found to be 46° 19. 11. 7.
north;* and at our camp at the head of the bay the river
is three miles and 660 yards wide. The natives stayed
with us all day. At night the party were consulted by
the Commanding Officers, as to the place most proper
for winter quarters; and the most of them were of opin-
ion, that it would be best, in the first place, to go over to
the south side of the river, and ascertains whether good
huntinsf ground could be found there. Should that be
the case, it would be more eligible place than higher up
the river, on acccunt of getting salt, as that is a very
scarce article with us.

Monday 25. The morning was pleasant, though
cloudy, wiih a white frost. We loaded our canoes and
proceeded on: went about nine miles and made an
attempt to cross the river, but failed; we therefore kept
up the north side, round Shallow-bay, and encamped
about four miles above it.

Tuesday 26. The morning of this day was cloudy
and wet; but we set out early, went about a mile and
then crossed the river; passing in our way several islands.
Immediately after we crossed we came to a small village
of the natives, and procured a few roots, called Wapto,
from them, and then proceeded on, coasting down the
bay on the south side. The whole of the day was
wet and unpleasant, and in the evening we encamped
for the night.

Wednesday 27. We set out early in a wet morning;

* Gjo^raphcrs have staterl that the Cohimbia enters the ocean
in litituJ'3 it)'' IS. north. Tno diif^rcnce is therefore only one
minute 11 seconds and 7 tenths. Tiie longitude by mistake they
have made 236'^ 34 west; but wliich is the cast longitude, leaving
l'2'i^ 2o for the west longitude. Mr. M'Kenzie arrived at the ocean
in latitude 5"2'^ 23. 43. or 6^ 4. 31 nortli of the mouth of the Cohim-
bia; and in longitude 12S^ 2 or 4^ 36. west of the mouth of the
Columbia. This will shew the general course of the western coast
between those places, to which the river and great chain of the
Rocky Mountains are nearly parallel.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 159

coasted round, and turned a sharp cape about a mile;
when we found the swells running so high that we had
to hah, unload our canoes and haul them out on shore.
Here we remained the afternoon and had a very wet
night-
Thursday 28. We had a wet windy morning; some
of the hunters went out, but had no luck. It rained all
day; and we had here no fresh water, but what was taken
out of the canoes as the rain fell.

Friday 29. The weather continues cloudy and wet.
Captain Lewis with four men, started to go down and
examine whether there is good hunting, and whether
we can winter near the salt water. Some of the hunters
went out and in the evening returned without killing any
game, which appears scarce. The hunting is also dffi-
cult, the country being full of thickets and fallen timber.
There was some showers of rain and hail during the
day.

Saturday 30. This was a fair day; and some hunters
went around the cape and killed two or three ducks.
This is all the supply of fresh provisions, that we have
had since we have been at this camp. We live almost
altogether on pounded salmon. The whole of the day
was fair, pleasant, and warm for the season.

Sunday December 1, 1805. The whole of this day
was cloudy. Some of the hunters went out but had not
the fortune to kill any thing, not even a duck.

Monday 2. The day was again cloudy and wet.
Some of the hunters went out in the mornine; and in
the afternoon one of them came in, after killing a fine
elk. A party of the men went out to bring in the meat,
which is a very seasonable supply, a number complain-
ing of the bad effects of the fish diet. Neither the hun-
ters nor the men, who went for the meat returned. In
the evenincr the weather became clear, and we had a
fine night.

Tuesday 3. The morning was foggy. About 9
o'clock the men came in with the meat of the elk.
They had a disagreeable trip, it being dark before they
arrived at the place where the elk had been killed: and

]G0 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

the darkness, fallen timber and underbrush prevented
their return; so that they had to encamp out all night.
Six of the natives came to our camp, the first who appear-
ed since our arrival, and after staying an hour proceeded
down the river. The greater part of the day was fair,
but in the evening it clouded over and rained again. At
dark our other two hunters came in, and had killed six
elk some distance from the river.

Wednesday 4. We had a cloudy rainy morning.
The river was so rough, we could not set out with the
canoes, and six or seven men were sent to dress the elk
that had been killed and take care of the meat. The
rain continued all day.

Thursday 6. Again we had a wet stormy day, so
the men were unable to proceed with the canoes. About
11 o'clock Captain Lewis and three of his party came
back to camp; the other two were left to take care of
some meat they had killed. They have found a place
about 15 miles from this camp, up a small river which
puts into a large bay on the south side of the Columbia,
that will answer very well for winter quarters, as game
is very plenty, which is the main object with us; and we
intend to move there as soon as circumstances will
admit. There is more wet weather on this coast, than
I ever knew in any other place; during a month we have
had but three fair days; and there is no prospect of a
change.

Friday 6. We had another wet morning, and were
not able to set out. At noon it rained very hard, and
the tide flowed so high, that in some part of our camp
the water was a foot deep: we had therefore to remove
to higher ground. In the afternoon it still continued to
rain hard.

Saturday 7. About 12 last night the rain ceased and
we had a line clear morning. We put our canoes into
the water, loaded them, and started for our intended
wintering place. We coasted down the south side about
a mile, and then met with the six men, who had gone
for meat. They had brought four of the skins but no
meat, the distance being great and the weather very bad.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 161

The swells being two high here to land, we went two
miles furihcr and took the men in. We then proceeded
round the bay until we came to the mouth of a river
about 100 yards broad, which we went up about two
miles to the place fixed upon for winter quarters, unloaded
our canoes, and carried our baggage about 200 yards
to a spring, where we encamped.

Sunday 8. We had a fine morning with some white
frost. Captain Clarke with five men set out to go to the
ocean, and myself with eleven more to bring in the
meat, which the two men left by Captain Lewis were
taking care of. We went up the small river in our
canoes about two miles, then up a branch of it on the west
side two miles, then by land about two miles more, where
we found the men and the meat, of which we all carried
two large loads to our canoes, and proceeded down to
camp. In the evening it began to rain again. The

country towards the south is mountainous at some dis-

•I

tance off; and there is some snow on the mountains.
Near our camp, the country is closely timbered with
spruce-pine, the soil rich, but not deep; and there are
numerous springs of running water.

Monday 9. The morning was cloudy and wet. A
Serjeant and eight men were sent to bring in the remain-
der of the meat we left yesterday; some were employed
in making our camp comfortable, and others in clearing
a place for huts and a small fort. In the evening some
of the natives came to our camp, the first we have seen
for some days. It continued cloudy and wet all day.

Tuesday 10. We had another wet cloudy morning,
and all hands were employed at work notwithstanding
the rain. About 2 o'clock Captain Clarke and three of
his party returned to camp; the other two remained out
to hunt. They found the ocean to be about seven miles
from our camp; for four miles the land high and closely
timbered: the remainder prairie out with some streams
of water. They killed an elk and saw about 50 in one
gang. They also saw three lodges of Indians on the
seashore. The natives which were at our camp, went
11

162 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

away this morning aftc** receiving some presents, In
the evening we laid the foundation of our huts.

Wednesday 11. This day was also cloudy and wet;
but we continued at our hut building.

Thursday 12. This morning was cloudy without rain.
In the forenoon we finished three rooms of our cabins,
all but the covering; which I expect will be a dilHcult
part of the business, as we have not yet found any tim-
ber which s})lits well; two men went out to make some
boards, if possible, for our roofs. About 3 o'clock in
the afternoon a number of the natives from the seashore
came to our camp, and remained all night. Some rain
fell in the evening.

Friday 13. We had a cloudy, but fme morning; and
all hands were engaged at work. The party of Indians
who came yesterday went away, and another party came
about the middle of the day. Two hunters came in, and
had killed 18 elk, not mor-e than four miles distant.
The day continued cloudy and some rain fell in the
evening.

Saturday 14, The two hunters that had killed the elk,
went back with two other men to take care of the meat.
In the course of the day a good deal of rain fell ; the
weather here still continues warm, and there has been
no freezing except a little white frost. In the afternoon
the savages all went away. We completed the building
of our huts, seven in number, all but the covering, which
I now find will not be so difficult as I expected ; as we
have found a kind of timber in plenty, which splits freely
and makes the finest puncheons I have ever seen. They
can be split 10 feet long and two broad, not more than
an inch and a half thick.

Sunday 15. The morning was cloudy. Captain
Clarke with 16 of the party started to bring in the meat
the four men were taking care of; myself and two others
were employed in fixing and finishing the quarters of the
Commanding Officers, and two more preparing puncheons
for covering the huts. Some light showers fell during
the day; and at night three Indians came to our camp,
and brought us two large salmon.

I

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 1G3

Monday 16. This was a wet morning with high wind.
Ahout eight Captain Clarke and 15 men came in loaded
with meat ; they left a canoe with seven men to bring in
the remainder. They had a very bad night, as the
weather was stormy and a great deal of rain fell. Not-
withstanding this, a sergeant and four men, who had got
lost, lay out all night without tire. As soon as they
arrived all hands were set to carrying up the meat, and
putting it in a house we had prepared for the purpose.
The whole of the day was stormy and wet.

Tuesday 17. This was another cloudy day, with
some liG;ht showers of rain and hail. About 1 1 o'clock
the seven men came with the canoe and the remainder
of the meat. We still continued working at our huts.

Wednesday 18. Snow fell last night about an inch
deep, and the morning was stormy. In the middle of
the day the weather became clear, and we had a fine
afternoon.

Thursday 19. This was a fme clear cool morning,
and we expected to have some fair pleasant weather, but
at noon it became cloudy again and began to rain.

Friday 20. The morning was cloudy and wet. We
collected all the puncheons or slabs we had made, and
some which we got from some Indian huts up the bay,
but found we had not enough to cover all our huts.
About 10 o'clock the weather became clear; but before
night it rained as fast as before. From this day to the
25th we had occasionally rain and high winds, but the
weather still continued warm. On the evening of the
24th we got all our huts covered and daubed.

Wednesday 25. Was another cloudy wet day. This
morning we left our camp and moved into our huts. At
daybreak all the men paraded and fired a round of small
arms, wishing the Commanding Officers a merry Christ-
mas. In the course of the day Captain Lewis and Capt.
Clarke collected what tobacco remained and divided it
among those who used tobacco as a Christmas-gift, to
the others they gave handkerchiefs in lieu of it. We
had no spirituous liquors to elevate our spirits this Christ-
mas; but of this we had but little need, as we were all in

1G4 JOLTvNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

very good health. Our living is not very good; meat is
plenty, but of an ordinary quality, as the elk are poor in
this part of the country. We have no kind of provi-
sions but meat, and we arc without salt to season that.

The 26th, 27ih and 28th, were cloudy with rain. We
found our huts smoked; there being no chimnies in them
except in the officers' rooms. The men were therefore
employed, except some hunters who went out, in making
chimnies to the huts. In the evening of the 27th we
w^ere informed that a large fish, answering to the descrip-
tion of a whale, was driven upon shore. In the forenoon
of the 28th six men started for the seashore to make salt,
as we have none in the fort. Two hunters returned,
having killed a deer, and three went out to hunt.

Sunday 29. This was a cloudy morning; but a fair
day succeeded; and three more hunters went out. In
the afternoon several of the Chin-ook nation came to
our fort with Wapto root and dried salmon to trade. We
purchased some from them and found the supply season-
able as our meat on hand is somewliat spoiled. The
men about the fort are engaged in finishing our small
fortification.

Monday 30. Heavy showers of rain fell last night,
but the morning was fair, and we had some sunshine,
which happens very seldom; light showers of rain fell
during the day. About 2 o'clock the three hunters that
first went out came in; and had killed four elk. Seven
men went out immediately and brought them into the
fort safe, which was a pleasing^sight, the meat we had on
hand being spoiled. This evening we completely finish-
ed our fortification.

Tuesday 31. Another cloudy morning. Some more
of the natives came to trade with Wapto roots and
salmon: the first party had gone off in the morning.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 165

CHAPTER XVII.

Wednesday, January 1, 1806. The year commen-
ced with a wet day; but the weather still continues warm;
and the ticks, flies and other insects are in abundance,
which appears to us very extraordinary at this season of
the year, in a lititude so far north. Two hunters went
out this morning. We gave our Fortification the name
of Fort Clatsop. In the evening our two hunters, that
went out this morning, returned and had killed two large
elk about three miles from the Fort.

Thursday 2. This also was a cloudy wet day. Four-
teen men went out in the morning and brought the meat
of the elk into the Fort.

Friday 3. The weather is still cloudy and wet. I
set out this morning with one of the men to go to the
salt works, to see what progress those engaged in that
business had made; and why some of them had not
returned, as they had been expected for some time. We
proceeded along a dividing ridge, expecting to pass the
heads of some creeks, which intervened. We traveled
all day and could see no game ; and the rain still contin-
en. In the evening we arrived at a place where two of
the men had killed an elk sometime ago. Here we
struck up a fire, supped on the marrow bones and
remained all night.

Saturday 4. The morning was wet ; but we proceed-
ed on, and passed the head of a creek which we supposed
was the last on our rout to the salt works. Immediately
after passing the creek, the man with me killed an elk;
when we halted and took breakfast of it, and then went
on. We got into low ground, passed through a marsh
about half a mile in breadth, where the water was knee
deep; then got into a beautiful prairie about five miles
wide, and which runs along the seashore about 30 miles
from Point Adams on the south side of Hayley's Bay,
in nearly a southwest course and ends at a high point of
a mountain, called Clarke's view on the sea shore.
Through this plain or prairie runs another creek, or small

1G6 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

river which we could not pass without some craft: so we
Giicampcd on the creek and supped on the elk's tongue,
which we had brought with us.

Sunday 5. This was a very wet day. VVe killed a
squirrel and eat it; made a raft to cross the creek; but
when it was tried we found it would carry only one per-
son at a time ; the man with me was therefore sent over
first, who thought he could shove the raft across again;
but when we attempted, it only went half way: so that
there was one of us on each side and the raft in the mid-
dle. I, however notwithstanding the cold, stript and
swam to the raft, brought it over and then crossed on it
in safety; when we pursued our journey, and in a short
time came to some Indian camps on the sea shore. The
rain and w^ind continued so violent that we agreed to stay
at these camps all night.

Monday 6. We had a fair morning and the weather
cleared up, after two months of rain, except four days.
We therefore set out from these lodges; passed the mouth
of a considerable river; went about two miles up the
shore, and found our salt makers at work. Two of their
detachment had set out for the fort on the 4th and the
man that had come with me and two more went to hunt.

Tuesday 7. Another fine day. About noon Captain
Clarke with 14 men came to the salt-makers camp, in
their way to the place where the large fish had been dri-
ven on shore, some distance beyond this camp. The
Indians about our fort had procured a considerable quan-
tity of the meat, which we found very good. The 8th
was a fine day and I remained at camp. The 9th was
also fair and pleasant; and about noon Captain Clarke
and his party returned here; the distance being about 17
miles. They found the skeleton of the whale which
measured 105 feet in length and the head 12. The
natives had taken all the meat off its bones, by scalding
and oilier means, for the purpose of trade. The Indians,
who live up there are of another nation, and call them-
selves the Callemex nation. They are a ferocious
nation: one of them was going to kill one of our men,
for his blanket; but was prevented by a squaw of the

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. l67

Chinook nation, who lives among them, and who raised
an alarm. There is a small river comes into the sea at
that place. Captain Clarke and his party remained at the
camp all night, during which some rain tell.

Friday 10. The morning was fme and Captain Clarke
and his party started, and I remained at this camp to
wait the return of the man who had come with me and
who was out hunting. The 11th was also pleasant, and
I proceeded with a party for the fort; where about 9
o'clock we arrived the next day. Two hunters had gone
out from the fort in the morning, and killed seven elk
about two miles from it.

Monday 13. The weather changed and we had a
cloudy wet day ; and all the hands, who could be spared
were engaged in bringing the meat of the elk, killed yes-
terday to camp.

Tuesday 14. The morning was pleasant; and two
men were sent to the salt works to assist in making salt.
The rest of our people were employed in drying and
taking care of the meat; and in dressing elk skins for
moccasons, which is a laborious business, but we have no
alternative in this part of the country.

The 1 5th and 1 6th were both wet throughout, and the
men employed as on the 14th. In the morning of the
17th there were some clouds; but about 10 o'clock they
disappeared and we had a fine day. About the same time
eight of the natives of the Clatsop nation came to our
fort, and stayed till the evening. A hunter went out in
the morning and killed a deer.

Saturday 18. Last night was very dark; and early in
it rain came on and continued all night. This day is also
wet. Some of the natives visited us and went away in
the evening.

Sunday 19. Four hunters went out this morning,
which was fair with flying clouds ; but in the evening it
began to rain again. We had another visit from some of
the natives.

Monday 20. It rained hard all day. Some of the
natives again came to see us, whom we suffered, con-
trary to our usual practice, to remain in the fort all night;

168 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

the evening was so wet and stormy. It also rained on
the 21st and 22nd. Our hunters killed three elk. On
my way with a party to bring in the meat of these, I
saw some amazingly large trees of the fur kind; they are
from 12 to 15 feet in diameter.

Thursday 23. We had a fine clear cool morning,
and two men were sent on to the salt works. The day
continued pleasant initil about 4 o'clock in the afternoon,
when the weather became cloudy, and it began to rain.

Friday 24. At daylight some snow fell, and there
were several snow showers during the day. In the
afternoon two of our hunters and some of the natives
caiTie to the fort in an Indifin canoe with the meat of two
deer and an elk they had killed. The Indians were
barefooted notwithstanding the snow on the ground; and
the evening was so bad we permitted them to stay in the
fort all night.

f Saturday 25. The morning was cloudy and some
showers of snow fell in tlM3 course of the day; and in
the night it fell to the depth of eight inches. On the
26th there were some light showers during the day; but
in the evening the weather cleared up., and it began to
freeze hard. This is the first freezing weather of any
consequence we have had during the winter.

Monday 27. This was a clear cold frosty morning;
and the snow about nine inches deep. Where the sun
shone on it during the day, a considerable quantity of it
melted; but these places were few, as the whole face of
the country near this is closely covered with fir timber.
In the afternoon a hunter came in and informed us that
the party he had been with had killed 10 elk.

Tuesday 28. A clear cold morning, and the weather
continued cold all day. About half of our men were
employed bringing home meat; and it was found a very
cold uncomfortable business. The two men who lately
went to the salt works returned with a small supply.

Wednesday 29. We had a cold clear morning; and
the day continued clear throughout. On the 30ih the
weather was cloudy; and not so cold as the day before;
and some snow fell.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 169

Friday 31. This was a clear cold morning. Seven
of us went up the small river in a canoe to hunt; but after
wc had gone a mile, we were stopped by the ice and had
to return to the fort. One of the men at the salt works
had been out hunting, and killed an elk; and called at the
fort for men to assist him in taking the meat to their camp.

Saturday, February 1, 180G. We had a line clear
cold morning. A number of the men went out to bring
meat to the fort, and to take some to the salt works.

Sunday 2. The morning was pleasant and the weather
more moderate. About the middle of the day it began
to thaw and in the evening to rain. Some of our men
were engaged to day bringing in more meat.

Monday 3. Some light showers of rain fell in the
course of last night; and this day is still somewhat wet
and cloudy. One of our hunters came in, who had
killed seven elk, and returned with a party and a canoe
to bring in the meat. We are fortunate in getting as
much meat as we can eat; but we have no other kind of
provisions,

Tuesday 4. This was a fine clear morning. Last
night the men, who had gone to carry the meat to the
salt works, returned and brought us a bushel of salt.
This day continued throughout clear and pleasant; and
the 5th was a clear cold day. One of our hunters came
in, who had killed six elk.

Thursday 6. We had a cool fair morning. Ten of
us started with canoes to bring in the meat of the elk,
killed yesterday ; and had to encamp out all night but
with the assistance of the elk skins and our blankets, we
lodged pretty comfortable, though the snow was four or
five inches deep.

Friday 7. The morning was fair, and all hands enga-
ged bringing in the meat; we got some to the fort; but
myself and part of the men had again to encamp out.
It rained hard and we had a disagreeable night.

Saturday 8. About noon there were showers of rain
and hail. Some of the hunters killed four more elk and
we got all the meat safe to camp in the evening.

Sunday 9. We had a fine morning; but in the course

170 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

of the day we had sometimes sunshine, and sometimes
showers of rain. One of our hunters caught a beaver.

Monday 10. A light snow fell last night, and the
morning was pleasant. In the afternoon two men came
from the salt works, with information that two others
were sick and a third had cut his knee so badly he could
scarcely walk.

* Tuesday 11. This was a fine morning. A sergeant
and six men were sent to bring the sick men to the fort.
At the same time myself and two men went out to hunt,
and remained out to the 17ih during which time there
was a great deal of heavy rain, and the weather changea-
ble and disagreeable. While we were out we killed
eight elk. During one of the most disagreeable nights,
myself and another lay out in our shirts and overalls,
with only one elk skin to defend us from a violent night's
rain. We had started a gang of elk, and in order to be
light in the pursuit left our clothes where the first was
killed, and could not get back before dark. Our shirts
and overalls beirtsj all of leather made it the more disa-
greeable.

Monday 17. The day was stormy; we set out for the
fort and arrived there in the afternoon. We found the
sick men at the fort, and still very bad. One of the
men brought word from the salt works, that they had
made about four bushels of salt; and the Commanding
Officers thought that would be sufficient to serve the
party, until we should arrive at the Missouri where there
is some deposited.

Tuesday 18. The morning of this day was cloudy.
A sergeant and six men set out to go to the salt works, to
bring the salt and kettles to the fort. At the same time I
started with 10 more to bring in meat; but the weather
was so stormy we could not get round the bay, and we
all returned to the fort.

Wednesday 19. We were employed m bringing in
meat, and the sergeant and seven men again set out for
the salt works by land, to bring the salt and kettles to the
fort. The day was very wet and stormy.

Thursday 20. This was a cloudy morning. A num-

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. iTl

ber of tlie Chinook Indians came to the fort with hats to
trade. They are made of the cedar bark and silk grass,
look handsome and keep out the rain. But little rain fell
to day, and in the evening we turned out the natives as
usual, and they all went home.

Friday 21. About 1 o'clock, our salt makers came
home, with the salt and baggage. They had a very
unpleasant day, as it rained hard during the whole of it.

Saturday 22. This was a fine clear day; and some of
the natives again visited us, and brought some hats which
we purchased at a moderate price. The 23d was also
clear and pleasant; but the morning of the 24th was
cloudy, and at 10 o'clock it began to rain hard. About
noon a number of the natives came to the fort to trade.
The rain continued with high stormy wind; and we
suffered the Indians to remain in the fort all night.

Tuesday 25. The rain continued and the weather
was stormy. About 10 o'clock the natives went away,
though it continued to rain very fast. They brought us
yesterday a number of small fish, of a very excellent
kind, resembling a herring, and about half the size.

Wednesday 26. We had a fair morning; some of the
hunters went out, as our store of provisions was getting
small, and three men ^vent in search of these small fish,
which we had found very good eating. The 27th was a
cloudy wet day. Three of our hunters came in, and had
killed an elk.

Friday 28. This was a foggy morning, and the fore-
noon cloudy. A sergeant and six men went out to bring
in the meat, and returned about noon. The greater part
of this day was fair and pleasant; and in the evening
three hunters came in, and had killed five elk.

172 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

CHAPTER XVIII.

Saturday, March 1, 1806. Wc had a cloudy wet
morning. I set out with eight men and four hunters to
bring the meat of the elk that had been killed, which
was at a greater distance from the fort than any we had
yet brought in. There is a largo river that flows into
the southeast part of Hailey's Bay; upon which about
20 miles from its mouth, our hunters discovered falls,
which had about 60 feet of a perpendicular pitch.

Sunday 2. This day was also wet. The fishing
party returned at night, and brought with them some
thousands of the same kind of small fish, we got from
the natives a few days ago, and also some sturgeons.

The Indian name of the river we were up yesterday
is Kil-hou-a-nak-kle, and that of the small river, which
passes the fort Ne-tul.

Monday 3. It rained all this day and the following.
Our sick men are getting better, but slowly, as they have
little or no suitable nourishment.

Wednesday 5. About 12 o'clock last night the rain
ceased, and we had a fine morning. A number of the
natives visited us; and at night our hunters returned, but
had killed nothing.

Thursday 6. Our stock of provisions being nearly
exhausted, six men were sent out in different directions
to hunt; and three more were sent to endeavor to procure
some fish, as the natives take a great number of the small
fish about 20 miles distant from the fort by water. Some
men were also employed in repairing the canoes that we
may be able to set out on our return immediately, should
our hunters be unsuccessful. The elk, almost the only
game in this part of the country, are chiefly gone to the
mountains. This day continued fair throughout.

Friday 7. This was a wet morning, and some show-
ers fell occasionally during the day. Among our other
difficulties we now experience the want of tobacco, and
out of 33 persons composing our party, there are but
seven who do not make use of it: we use crab-tree bark

173

174 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

as a substitute. In the evening one of our hunter came
in and had killed an elk a considerable distance off.

Saturday 8. Some snow fell last night, and the morn-
ing was stormy and disagreeable. About 9 o'clock
another of our hunters came in who had killed two elk;
and after some time the remaining three, having killed
but one deer, and lost their canoe.

Sunday 9. This morninsj 10 men went out to hunt.
There were some light showers of snow this forenoon,
but during the greater part of it the sun shone clear and
warm. In the afternoon some of the natives came to
visit us, and brought some of the small fish, which they
call Ulken. Two hunters came in, in the evening, but
had not killed any thing. The men sent to fish are still
absent, owing perhaps to the high swells in the bay.
The Indians remained in the fort all night.

On the 10th we had changeable weather, with snow
showers. At noon two more hunters went out.

Tuesday 11. The weather was nearly the same as
yesterday. Three men went across the bay in a canoe
to hunt. Two other hunters came in but have killed
nothing. At noon our fishermen returned with some
Ulkon and sturg-eon. The mornino; of the 12th was
pleasant ; but towards the evening the day became cloudy.
Another hunter went out.

Thursday 13, The morning was fine and two more
hunters went out early. About ten the hunters who had
gone across the bay returned, and had killed two elk and
two deer.

I this day took an account of the number of pairs of
moccasons each man in the party had; and found the
whole to be 338 pairs. This stock was not provided
without great labor, as the most of them are made of
the skins of elk. Each man has also a sufficient quanti-
ty of patch-leather. Some of the men went out to look
for the lost canoe, and killed two elk.

Friday 14. We had a fine morning; and four hun-
ters set out early. I went with a party and brought in
the meat of the two elk which were killed last evening.
Two hunters, who had gone out yesterday morning

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 175

returned very much fatigued, and had killed nothing but
a goose and a raven which they eat last night. AV^hile
out to-day I saw a number of musquitoes Hying about.
I also saw a great quantity of sheep-sorrel growing in
the woods of a very large size.

Saturday 16. This was a fine pleasant morning.
About noon our hunters came in and had killed four elk.
A number of the natives came to the fort to day.

Sunday 16. Last night it became cloudy and began
to rain ; and the rain has continued all day. The Indians
stayed about the fort the whole of this day. Yesterday
while I was absent, getting our meat home, one of the
hunters killed two vultures, the largest fowls I had ever
seen. I had never saw any such as these except on the
Columbia river and the sea coast.

On the 17ih it rained occasionally during the whole
of the day. We got a canoe from the natives, for which
we gave an officer's uniform coat.

Tuesday 18. The weather was much like that of
yesterday, and some hail fell in the course of the day.
Some of the men are repairing the small canoes, and
making preparations to return up the river, as soon as
the weather will permit. One of the hunters killed an
elk.

The morning of the 19th was stormy, some hard show-
ers of hail fell and it continued cloudy through the day.

Thursday 20. The whole of this day was wet and
disagreeable. We intended to have set out to day on
our return, but the weather was too bad. I made a cal
culation of the number of elk and deer killed by the
party from the 1st of Decomber 1805, to the 20th of
March 1806, which gave 131 elk and 20 deer. There
were a few smaller quadrupeds killed such as otter and
beaver; and one raccoon. The meat of some of the elk
was not brought to the fort.

Friday 21. We had a cloudy wet morning. Two
of the hunters went out this morning; and about 10
o'clock we were visited by some of the Clat-sop Indians.
These and the Chin-ook, Cath-la-mas, Cal-a-mex and
Chiltz nations, who inhabit the seacoast, all dress in the

176 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

same manner. The men are wholly naked except a
small robe; the women have only the addition of the
short petticoat. Their language also is nearly the same;
and they all observe the same ceremony of depositing
with the remains of the dead all their property, or placing
it at their graves. I believe I saw as many as an hun-
dred canoes at one burying-place of the Chin-ooks, on
the north side of the Columbia, at its entrance into
Hailey's Bay: and there are a great many at the bury-
ing-place of every village. These Indians on the coast
have no horses, and very little property of any kind,
except their canoes. The women are much inclined to
venery, and like those on the Missouri are sold to pros-
titution at an easy rate. An old Chin-ook squaw fre-
quently visited our quarters with nine girls which she
kept as prostitutes. To the honor of the Flatheads, who
live on the west side of the Rocky Mountains, and extend
some distance down the Columbia, we must mention
them as an exception; as they do not exhibit those loose
feelings of carnal desire, nor appear addicted to the
common customs of prostitution: and they are ihe only
nation on the whole route where any thing like chastity
is regarded. In the evening our two hunters returned,
but had killed nothing.

Saturday 22. We had a cloudy wet morning. Three
hunters were sent on ahead to remain at some good hunt-
ing ground until we should all come up; and six others
to hunt near the fort. In the evening all these came in,
except one, without any success.

Sunday 23. This was a cloudy morning. The hun-
ter who remained out last night, came in early; and had
killed an elk. We were employed this aftenioon in
dividing and packing up our loading; and distributing it
among the canoes, which were five in number, three
large and two small. At noon wo put it on board; and
at 1 o'clock left fort Clatsop. The afternoon was fair;
we proceeded round Point William, went about 19 miles,
and encamped at the mouth of a creek, where we found
the three hunters, that had been sent on ahead; and who
had killed two elk about a mile and a half distant.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 177

Monday 24. After a bad night's rest, on account of
the rain, 15 men went out and brought the meat of the
two elk to our camp. The morning was fair and after
breakfast they all embarked, except the men belonging
to my canoe which the tide had left aground. The hun-
ters went on in the small canoe ahead, and I had to wait
for the rising of the tide. In about two hours 1 was able
to follow the other canoes, and proceeded on about 12
miles to a village of the Cath-la-mas where the rest of
the party liad halted. When I arrived we all proceeded
on again, and in the evening encamped at an old village,
which hnd been vacated.

Tuesday 23. We set out after breakfast and had a
fair morning; proceeded on to 12 o'clock, when we
again halted, the wind and tide being both against us.
When the tide began to rise we went on again, saw some
of the natives in canoes descending the river, and in the
afternoon passed an Indian lodge, where one of the men
purchased an otter skin. At this time the wind rose and
blew very hard accompanied with rain; notwithstanding
we proceeded on till night, when we came to the mouth
of a small creek which formed a good harbor for our
canoes. Here we found several of the natives encamped
and catching sturgeon, of which they had taken 14 large
ones.

Wednesday 26. After a disagreeable night's rain, and
wind, we continued our voyage. As we passed along I
saw a great many flowers full blown of different colors;
and grass and other herbage growing fast: I saw nettles
two feet high of this spring's growth.

Thursday 27. This was a cloudy wet morning. We
embarked early and went about six miles, when we came
to a small Indian village, where the natives received us
very kindly. They belong to the Chil-ook nation, and
differ something in their language from the Chin-ooks.
We got some Wapto roots and hsh from them and then
proceeded on, though it rained very hard. Two small
canoes went on ahead to Deer island, in order to kill
some game by the time we should come up. We passed
several Indian lodges where the natives were fishing for
12

178 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

sturgeon, and got a largo one out of a small canoe ; a
number of whicii followed us with two Indians in each of
them. At night we encamped where we had plenty of
good wood, oak and ash.

Friday 28. The morning was cloudy. We set out
early, and at 10 o'clock came to Deer island; where
those who had gone ahead in the small canoes had
encamped, and all gone out to hunt except one. In a
short time a hunter returned with a large deer, and we
concluded to stay here all day and repair two of our
canoes, that leaked. It rained at intervals durinE: the
day. Our hunters came in and had killed seven deer
in all. Some of the men went to bring in the meat, and
others went out and killed some geese and ducks. At
the last village we passed I took notice of a difference
in the dress of the females, from that of those below,
about the coast and Hailey's Bay. Instead of the short
petticoat, they have a piece of thin dressed skin tied tight
round their loins, with a narrow slip coming up between
their thighs. On this island there are a greater number
of snakes, than I had ever seen in any other place; they
appeared almost as numerous as the blades of grass;
a id are a species of Garter snake. When our men went
for the deer, they found that the fowls had devoured four
of the carcases entirely, except the bones. So they
brought in the other two; and we finished our canoes and
put them in the water. The Columbia river is now very
high, which makes it more difficult to ascend.

Saturday 29. The morning was pleasant with some
white frost and we proceeded on early; passed some old
Indian lodges, and in the afternoon came to a large
village, where we were received with great kindness,
and got fish and wapto roots to eat. Here we bought
some dogs and waptos, and then went on again, about a
mile, and encamped. One of the sick men is quite
recovered and the other two are getting better.

Sunday 30. The morning was fair with some dew.
We set out early accompanied by several of tlie natives
in canoes. The river is very high, overflowing all its
banks. We passed some villages of the natives on

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 179

Wapto island, •which is about 20 miles long and one
broad, but did not halt at any of them. The natives of
this country ought to have the credit of making the finest
canoes, perhaps in the world, both as to service and
beauty; and are no less expert in working them when
made,* We had a beautiful day throughout, and in the
evening encamped on a handsome prairie in sight of a
largo pond on the north side of the river.

Monday 31. This was a beautiful clear morning, and
we proceeded on early. One of the men went along
shore, and in a short time killed a deer: the deer are
very plenty on this part of the river. We proceeded on,
and passed a large village which was full of people as
we went down, but is now all deserted except one lodge.
In the evening we c^me to a small prairie opposite the
mouth of Quicksand river, where w^e encamped.

Tuesday, April 1, 1806. We had a cloudy morning;
and we agreed to stay here all day, for the purpose of
hunting. So nine hunters set out early; three of whom
went up Quicksand river, and killed a deer: the other
six killed four elk and a deer. In the evening nine of
us went to brino- in the meat of the elk; but it beino; late
we w"ere obliged to encamp out all night.

Wednesday 2. We returned in the morning to camp;
and it was agreed to stay here some time longer to hunt
and dry meat. Therefore three parties went out to hunt.
Myself and four men went below the mouth of Sandy
river, and killed an elk, some deer and a black bear.

Thursday 3. We went out and killed some deer;
and then to bring in the meat of the bear and dry that of
the elk; but it rained so hard we could not dry the meat;
and therefore brought in the carcase of the bear. On
our way we saw three small cubs in a den, but the old
bear was not with them. In the evening we returned to
our camp, and remained there all night.

Friday 4. After a cloudy morning, we turned out and

* "I had imigineu tliat the Canadians, who accompanied me
were tlie most expert canoe-men in the world, but tliey are very
inferior to these people (the natives near the coast) as they them-
selves acknowledged, in conducting those vessels." — M'Kenzie.

ISO JOURXAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

killed a deer and some geese, and then went to the camp.
A party that went out on the upper side of Sandy river,
killed four elk, and some of the men were out drying
the meat.

While I was out hunting, Captain Clarke got informa-
tion that a lars^e river came in on the south side of the
Columbia, about 40 miles below this place, opposite a
large island, which had concealed it from our view; and
went down with six men to view it. He found it to be a
very large river, 500 yards wide, with several nations of
Indians living on it; and its source supposed to be near
the head waters of some of the rivers, which fall into
the gulph of California. On their return they bought
some dogs at an Indian villacire; and last night arrived at
camp. Four men were sent on ahead this forenoon in
a canoe to hunt; and I went out with two more to the den
where we saw the cubs, to watch for the old bear; we
stayed there until dark and then encamped about a quarter
of a mile off, and went back early in the morning; but
the old one was not returned: so we took the cubs and
returned to camp.

Saturday 6. The weather was pleasant. There is a
beautiful prairie and a number of ponds below the mouth
of Sandy river; and about two miles from the Columbia
the soil is rich with white cedar timber, which is very
much stripped of its bark, the natives making use of it
both for food and clothing.* A number of the Indians
visit us daily; and the females in general have that leather
covering round their loins, which is somewhat in the
form of a truss.

Sunday 6. We had a fine morning with some fog;
about 10 o'clock we set out; passed a beautiful prairie on

* Mr. M'Kenzic also mentions that the western Indians make
use of the inner tegument of the bark of trees for fo®d;and that
it is generally considered by the more interior Indians as a delica-
cy, rather than an article of common food; that on this and herbs
they are used to sustain themselves on their journies. He likewise
stales that of the inner rind of the hemlock, taken off early in
the spring they make a kind of caKcs, which they cat with salmon
oil, and of which they appear very fond.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 181

the north side, which we could not see for the fog as we
went down; proceeded on about nine miles and came to
our hunters' camp. They had killed five elk, so we
halted, sent out for the meat and began to dry it. We
are now at the head of the Columbia valley; which is a
fine valley 70 miles long, abounding with roots of differ-
ent kinds, which the natives use for food, especially the
Wapto roots which they gather out of the ponds. The
timber is mostly of the fir kind, with some cherry, dog-
wood, soft maple and ash; and a variety of shrubs which
bear fruit of a fine flavor, that the natives make use of
for food.

]\ronday 7. This was a pleasant day, but cloudy.
Three hunters went on ahead again and the rest of the
partv remained drying meat to subsist on while we passed
the Columbia plains, as there is no game in that part of
the country, according to the accounts given by the
natives, who are daily coming down; and say that those
remaining in the plains are in a starving condition, and
will continue so until the salmon begin to run, which is
soon expected. We continued here all day; and one of
our hunters killed a beautiful small bird of the quail
kind.

Tuesday 8. This was a fme morning, but the wind
blew so hard from the northeast that it was impossible
to go on ; and about 8 o'clock the swells ran so high that
we had to unload our canoes, and haul some of them out
of the water to prevent their being injured. Some of the
men are complaining of rheumatic pains; which are to
be expected from the wet and cold we suffered last winter,
during which from the 4th of November 1805 to the 25th
of March 1806, there were not more than twelve days in
which it did not rain, and of these but six were clear.
Two hunters, who had gone out in the morning, returned
but had killed nothing, except a beautiful small duck.

182 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

CHAPTER XIX.

Wednesday 9. The morning was pleasant; we there-
fore loaded our canoes and proceeded on till 11 o'clock
when we stopped at a large Indian village on the north
side; but a number of the huts were unoccupied. They
are of the Al-e-is nation. At the time we halted three
canoe loads of them were scitino- out for the falls to fish.
We took breakfast here and bouo;ht five dogs from them.
The women all wear the small leather bandage, but are
quite naked otherwise, except what is covered by the
small robe they wear round their shoulders. In the
afternoon the weather became cloudy and some rain fell.
In the evening we came to a large rapid at the lower end
of Strawberry island; where there are a number of
natives about settling on the north side. Here we crossed
over, after buying two dogs from them, and encamped
behind tlie island. Some rain continued falling.

Thursday 10. A party of men went out to collect
pitch to repair one of our canoes, which was split, and
the rest went round the point of the island, and took the
canoes over the rapid, one at a time, with the assistance
of a line. When we got over the rapids we crossed to
another village of the natives on the north side, where I
saw the skin of a wild sheep, which had fine beautiful
wool on it. Here we took breakfast and waited the arri-
val of the other canoe, which in about an hour came up;
and the men which went out for pitch killed three deer.
We proceeded on, and the water was so rapid, that we
had to tow the canoes up by the line almost all the way
to the landing at the lower end of the portage, distance of
about six miles. In passing a bad place the tow-line of
the small canoe, which the hunters had on ahead, broke;
but fortunately there was nothing in her, as the three
hunters, were on shore dragging her up, and had taken
out all the loading. As she passed by us Captain Lewis
got some of the natives to bring her to shore. In the
evening we got to the end of the portage, which is about
two miles. We took our baggage to the top of the hill

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 183

and remained with it all night; during which some show-
ers of rain fell.

Friday 11. We had a cloudy morning. All our men,
who were able set out to take the canoes through the
grand shoot. About 1 o'clock we got two over; and then
proceeded to take two more, which we succeeded in after
great toil and danger; and three hunters went on ahead
in the least.

Saturday 12. This morning was wet. We all set out
to take the other canoe over; but after we had fastened
the rope to her she swung out into the current, which was
so strong, that it pulled the rope out of the men's hands
and went down the river. We then went to carry our
baggage across the portage, which was a very fatiguing
business; but about sunset we got all over. It rained at
intervals all day; and upon the very high mountains on
the south side of the river, snow fell and continued on
the trees and rocks during the whole of the day. We
had a number of the natives about us in the day time;
but they left us at night. We encamped, all excessively
fatigued, at the upper end of the portage.

Sunday 13. This was a cloudy morning. Having
divided the load of the lost canoe among the four that
were left, we renewed our voyage and passed a large
deserted village on the north side. Captain Lewis with
the two small canoes, crossed to the south side, where
there is a large village inhabited, to endeavor to purchase
a small canoe or two, as we were very much crowded in
the four we had. Captain Clarke with the two large
canoes continued on along the northern shore, till we
passed Crusatte's river, when the wind rose so high we
could not go on, so we halted and waited for Captain
Lewis. Two hunters went out about three hours, but
killed nothing. By this time the wind fell and we went
on three miles to a better harbor, where we halted on the
north side of the river. Captain Clarke and three men
went out to hunt; and Captain Lewis having come up
and crossed over to us, we fixed our camp for the night.
He got two canoes and three dogs from the inhabitants
of the large village. They are of the Wey-eh-hoo

184 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

nation and liavo twelve lodges here. At dark Captain
Clarke and the party returned, and had killed two deer.

Monday 14. The morning was fine with some fog.
Aboiu 9 o'clock our three hunters, who had gone ahead
and proceeded up Crusatte's river some distance returned,
having killed four deer. At 10 o'clock we continued our
voyage, and at one came to a new settlement of the
natives on the north side, where we saw some horses,
the first we have seen since October last. These horses
appeared in good case. The wind blew hard from the
southwest and the weather was clear and cool, but there
has been no frost lately, except on the tops of the high
hills. We stayed here three hours and then proceeded
on; passed several Indian camps, and halted at a small
creek on the north side, where there are a number of
Indian lodges.

Tuesday 15. The morning was fair. The Com-
manding Officers attempted to purchase some horses, but
could not agree with the Indians on the price; so we pro-
ceeded on about four miles to another village, at the
mouth of Cataract river. Here we got some Shappe-leel,
a kind of bread the natives make of roots, and bake in
the sun; and which is strong and palatable. Here another
trial was made to get some horses, but whhout success;
and we again proceeded on; passed a place where there
was a village in good order last fall when we went down;
but has been lately torn down, and again erected at a
short distance from the old ground where it formerly
stood. The reasons of this removal I cannot conjecture,
unless to avoid the fleas, which are more numerous in
this country than any insects I ever saw.* About 3
o'clock in the afternoon we came to Rock Camp, where
we stayed two days as we went down. Some hunters
went out in the evening and killed a deer.

* "We had however the curiosity to visit the houses (of a deser-
ted villajje) which were erected upon posts; and we suffered very
severely from the indulgence of it; for the floors were covered
with fleas, and we were immediately in the same condition, for
which we had no remedy but to take to tlie water. There was not
a spot round the houses, free from grass, that was not alive, as it

wore,

with this vermin." M'Kenzie.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 185

Wednesday 16. This was a pleasant day. As we
did not expect to be able to navigate the<!)o]umbia river
much furiher. Captain Clarke, with some of the men
and some goods went over the river to endeavor to pro-
cure some horses. I was out hunting this morning and
killed a rattlesnake among the rocks. Some hunters
that went out in the morning returned in the evening and
had killed two deer, some ducks and four squirrels, three
of a beautiful speckled kind, and as large as a common
grey squirrel, but the tail not so bushy.

Thursday 17. This was a fine morning. Some
hunters went out and we remained at this camp all day ;
in the eveningr our huntsrs came in and had killed a deer.
We made 12 packsaddles. Captain Clarke still remams
over the river.

Friday 18. W^e had fine weather and all set out
from this place, and proceeded on with great difficulty
and danger to the foot of the long narrows ; and expect to
be able to take the canoes no further. Here we met one
of the men from Captain Clarke with four horses. In
coming up, one of our small canoes got split so that we
were obliged to carry the load two miles by land to this
place. Wood here is very scarce, as the Columbia
plains have commenced- Several of the men went up
to the village with their buffalo robes, to dispose of them
for horses. Could we get but 12 horses we would be able
to go by land.

Saturday 19. The morning was cloudy and all hands
were engaged in carrying the baggage and canoes over
the portage, which is two miles in length. Five more
horses were got in the course of the day. Some light
showers of rain fell in the afternoon, and about 4 o'clock,
we got all our baggage and canoes across except the two
large ones, of which we made firewood. At the same
time Captain Clarke and four men went on ahead to tJie
village at the great falls to endeavor to get some more
horses, by the time we arrive there, a distance of about
eight miles from this village. In the evening the weath-
er cleared up and we had a fine night.

Sunday 20. This was a pleasant morning with some

186 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

white frost. We got two more horses and lost one;
remained here all day and had a grcat deal of trouble
with our horses, as they are all studs, and break almost
every rope we can raise. We had to tie them up at
night, and one broke away notwithstanding all our care
and attention. We have also much trouble with the
Indians as they are disposed to steal whenever they have
an opportunhy. With all our care they stole four or five
tomahawks.

Monday 21. This was another pleasant morning with
some white frost. We found the horse, which had
broke away last niglit, and made preparations for setting
out from this place. While we were making prepara-
tions to start, an Indian stole some iron articles from
V among the men's hands; which so irritated Capt. Lewis,
that he struck him ; which was the first act of the kind,
that had happened during the expedition. The Indians
however did not resent it, otherwise it is probable we
would have had a skermish with them. This morning
we disposed of our two canoes and used another for fire-
wood. At 10 o'clock we set out from the first narrows
with nine horses of our own and one we borrowed, and
two canoes all loaded heavy. I went v/ith three other
men in the canoes, and had some difficulty in passing the
short narrows. About three in the afternoon we arrived
at the great falls of Columbia, where we met with Capt.
Clarke and the men that were with him. Here we got
another horse; carried our canoes and baggage round the
falls and halted for dinner. We also got some dogs
and shapeleel, which we subsist on chiefly at present. We
halted here two hours and then proceeded ^on again.
The party that went by land had to leave the river, and
take out to the hill a part of the way. I crossed with
my canoe to the south side where there is the best water,
and passed a large rock island, opposite to which the
Sho-sho-ne river flows in from the south. We went on
till dark, and then run our small canoe among some
willows, and laid down to sleep. We did not make any
fire for fear the savages, who are very numerous along
this part of the river, might come and rob us.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 167

Tuesday 22. This was a pleasant morning and high
wind. We proceeded on about three miles, when the
wind became so violent, that we could not proceed any
further, and halted and unloaded our canoes. Having
remained here two hours, the other canoe came up, and
we proceeded on though the wind was high and the river
rough. At sunset I crossed over, where the party going
by land came in sight, and halted at a small village on
the north side; but the other canoe kept on along the
southern shore. In the course of this day two more
horses were procured, and at this small village we got
some more dogs and shapaleel.

Wednesday 23. We had a cloudy morning. I went
also by water to day, and we had a very laborious work
in getting along. In the evening we met the party at a
large village of the Wal-la-waliz nation on the norih side
of the river, where the other canoe had also arrived.
Here we halted, unloaded the canoes and encamped. A
horse had got away last night and could not be found.

Thursday 24. The weather was pleasant. We lost
another horse last night, and were detained here this
morning, looking for him. We got six horses at this
place, three of which were borrowed from an Indian
who was going with his family along with us. We sold
our two small canoes; and at noon an Indian who had
gone to look for the lost horse returned with him. At
2 o'clock we all started by land on the north side of the
river, accompanied by several of the natives with their
families and horses. We entered the low country, the
great and beautiful plains of Columbia, and proceeded on
till evening when we encamped at two mat-lodges of the
natives, and got two dogs and some shapaleel. The
natives who were traveling in our party encamped with
us.

Friday 25. The morning was pleasant, and we set
out early. At 10 o'clock we met a great many of the
natives on horseback, who turned back with us. At noon
we came to a very large band of the Wal-a-waltz nation,
the most numerous we had seen on the Columbia; I sup-
pose it consisted of 500 persons, men, women, and child-

188 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

dreii; and all of them tolerably well clothed with robes
of the skins of the deer, the ibex or big horned animal
and buffalo. They have a great many horses and lately
came to the river to fish for salmon. We halted here
two hours and then went on. The men in general com-
plain of their feet being sore; and the officers have to go
on foot to permit some of them to ride. We went 13
miles and encamped at a small grove of willows. There
being no other wood for a considerable distance.

Saturday 26. Last night Captain Lewis and Captain
Clarke got each a horse, and we set out early, had a fine
morning, and proceeded on very well, most of the men
having their knapsacks carried on the horses. At noon
we halted and took a little of our dried meat, which is
the only food we have. At 2 o'clock we continued our
journey, and the officers were obliged to go on foot again,
to let some of the men ride whose feet were very sore.
The country is level and has a most beautiful appearance.
On these plains there is a species of clover, as large as
any I have seen; and has a large red handsome blossom.
The leaves are not quite so large as those of the red
clover cultivated in the Atlantic States, but has seven or
eight leaves on a branch. We were overtaken and pass-
ed by a great number of the natives, with large droves
of horses, that looked well and are in good order. We
traveled about 25 miles and encamped at a small grove
of willow.

Sunday 27. The morning was cloudy with some
light showers of rain; and about 9 o'clock we proceeded
on through the plains, accompanied by a great many of
the natives. Some light showers of rain fell at intervals
during the day; and after halting about two hours we
continued our journey to sunset, when we came to a
large village of mat-lodges, belonging to the Wal-la-wal-
las, who have encamped here on the north side of the
river. Here we remained all night, and the natives were
good enough to supply us witli some faggots of brush,
they had gathered in the plains from sage bushes, which
grow in great abundance on some parts of these plains
and arc very large.

AS RELATED BY PATRICKGASS. 189

Monday 28. The morning was pleasant, and we
spent it with the Indians, and got dogs, fish, shapaleel
and roots from them. At 10 o'clock we began to take
our horses over the river at this place, as we can lesson
our journey considerably by crossing: We borrowed
canoes from the natives, and swam the horses along side,
and at 2 o'clock in the afternoon had them all landed safe,
after a good deal of trouble. From this place we can
discover a rano;e of mountains, covered with snow, in a
southeast direction and about fifty miles distant. In the
evening the weather was cloudy, and it thundered and
threatened rain, a few drops of which fell. We remain-
ed here all night, and about dark above a hundred of the
natives came down from the forks to see us. They
joined with those of this place and performed a great
dance. We were a very interesting sight to the sur-
rounding crowd, as nine-tenths of them had never before
seen a white man.

Tuesday 29. The natives remained about our camp
all night; and we bought some dogs and a horse from
them. The day was fair and we got all our baggage
transported to the south side of the river. Here are a
great many of the natives encamped on a large creek,
which comes in from the south, and those on the north
side are moving over as fast as they can. We encamped
on the creek, and got three horses, some dogs, shap-a-
leel, some roots called com-mas and other small roots,
which were good to eat and nourishing.

Wednesday 30. This was a cloudy morningy and we
staved here till about 11 o'clock to collect our horses,
got two more; and have now altogether twenty-three
horses. We then set out from W^al-la-wal-la river and
nation; proceeded on about fourteen miles through an
extensive plain, when we struck a branch of the Wal-
la-wal-la river, and halted I'br the night. We saw no
animals or birds of any kind, except two pheasant, one
of which Captain Clarke killed. The whole of this
plain is of a sandy surface and affords but thin grass,
with some branches of shrubs which resemble sage or
hyssop. On the south side of this branch the soil is of

190 JOURxVAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

earih and rich, covered with grass, and very handsome.
We are still accompanied by several of the natives.

Thursday, Mav 1, 1806. Some rain fell durinij the
niizht. and the morning continues cloudy. We set out
early and traveled up the branch, which is a fme stream
about 20 yards wide, with some colton-wood, birch and
willows on its banks. One of four hunters, who went
forward very early this morning, returned at noon with a
beaver he had killed; other game is scarce. We then
halted to dine, where the road forks, one goi.jg up the
branch an east course, and the other north towards the
large river. Here our Indians differed in opinion with
respect to the best road to be taken. The man with the
family and gang o^ horses said he would go across to the
Great river to-morrow; but we followed the opinion of
the young man our guide, and proceeded on up the creek.
W^e traveled about 25 miles, and encamped without any
of the natives except our guide, who generally keeps
with the hunters, one of whom killed a deer this evening.
The higher we go up the creek the cotton wood is larger
and more plenty; and the plains beautiful.

Friday 2. A fine morning. Last night about 9 o'clock,
three of the Wal-la-wal-las came up with us, and
brought a steel trap that had been left at our camp on
the north side of the Columbia, opposite the mouth of
Wal-la-wal-la river; perhaps one of the greatest instances
o^ honesty ever known among Indians. Some hunters
\vent on ahead, and having collected our horses, we
found one missing; some of the men went to look for
him, and brought him back. We then continued our
journey up this branch; and saw to our right a range of
hills covered with timber and snow, not more than ten
miles distant. We went fifteen miles and encamped on
the north fork, the creek havinij forked about two miles
below our encampment. The south fork is the largest,
and from its course is supposed to issue from those snow
topped hills on our right. In the evening our hunters
joined us, and had killed only one beaver and an otter.
Tiie three Indians remained with us all day; and at night
\re set three steel traps, there being a great many beaver
aigQf on this branch.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 191

SaturJay 3. We had a wet uncomfortable morning,
and when the horses were collected one was found mis-
sinsr, and one of our hunters went back after him, while
the rest of us contmued our journey. 1 his morning our
guide and the three other Indians went on ahead. We
continued our route about ten miles, when we struck a
creek, having left the other entirely to our right; and
halted. Our hunters came up with the horse. The
wind was very high this forenoon, and rather cold for the
season; with some rain. We continued about two hours
and eat the last of our dried meat; and are altogether
without other provisions, as our stock of dogs is exhaust-
ed, and we can kill no game in these plains. In the
evening we met a chief and nine of his men, who ap-
peared glad to see us. W^e encamped on a small branch
or spring, as it was too far to go over the hills. The
Indians say we can get over to-morrow by noon. The
wind continued to blow hard and some snow showers fell
in the afternoon.

Sunday 4. We had a severe frost last night; and the
morning was cold and clear. We were early on our
march over a handsome plain; and came to another
creek, which we kept down until we came to Lewis's
river, some distance below the forks of Koos-koos-ke;
where we halted at an Indian lodge, and could get noth-
ing to eat, except some bread made of a kind of roots I
was unacquainted with. We had, however, a dog, which
we bought from the Indians, who met us last night; but
this was a scanty allowance for thirty odd hungry men.
We remained here about two hours, got a dog, and pro-
ceeded up the south side of Lewis's river, about three
miles, when we met with one of our old chiefs, who had
come down with us last fall; and who advised us to cross
the river, as the best road is on the north side. We
therefore were occupied in crossing, during the remainder
of the day as we could raise but four small canoes from
the natives at this place. We, however, by dark got all
safe over, and encamped on the north side, accompanied
by a great many of the natives, who appear a friendly
and well disposed people.

192 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

CHAPTER XX.

Monday 5. We had a fine morning, and proceeded
on early, accompanied by our old chief and a number of
the natives. About 10 o'clock we passed the forks, and
kept along the north side of Koos-koos-ke; at noon we
halted at three lodges of Indians, where we got three
dofs and some roots. We also got one of our horses,
which we had left here last fall in the care of the old
chief who is now with us; and says that the Snake guide,
who deserted us last fall, stole and took two of our horses
with him. We remained here about an hour, and then
continued our journey; came to a large lodge of the
natives, at the mouth of a creek, where we encamped.
This lod^e is built much after the form of the Virfi^inia
fodder houses; is about fifty yards long, and contains
twenty families. We here could get no provisions but
shap-a-lecl and roots.

Tuesday 6. This was a cloudy wet morning; and
we stayed in our camp. Captain Lewis and Capt. Clark
acted as physicians to the sick of the village or lodge,
for which they gave us a small horse, that we killed and
eat, as we had no other meat of any kind. We contin-
ed here until about 3 o'clock, when we started and went
on about nine miles, and encamped close to a lodge of
the natives.

Wednesday 7. This was a fine morning, and we
continued here till after breakfast, when we proceeded on
about four miles to another Indian lodge, at the mouth of
a small creek, where we had to cross the river again, in
order to get to a better road. At this lodge the natives
found two canisters of ammunition, which we hoxl buried
last fall on our way down, and which they took care of
and returned to us safe. All the Indians from the Rocky
Mountains to the falls of Columbia, are an honest, ingen-
ious and well disposed people; but from the falls to the
seacoast, and along it, they are a rascally, thieving set.
We were here detained about three hours in crossing, as
we had but one canoe to transport ourselves and baggage.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 193

We then proceeded over a large hill and struck a small
creek, about five miles below the place, where we made
our canoes in October last. Here we encamped for the
night, accompanied by two Indians, one of which can
speak the Sho-sho-ne or Snake language. We will
therefore be able to hold some conversation with the
natives in this part of the country, as our squaw is of the
Snake nation.

Thursday 8. The morning of this day was pleasant;
and we remained here some time, to endeavor to kill
some deer; and the hunters were sent out. Here some
of the natives came to our camp, and informed us,
that we could not cross the mountains for a moon and a
half: as the snow was too deep, and no grass for our
horses to subsist on. We have the mountains in view
from this place, all covered white with snow. At noon
our hunters came in and had killed four deer and some
pheasants. About 3 o'clock we continued our journey;
passed over a very high hill, and encamped on a small
run; where we met our other old chief, who went
down the river with us last fall. He told us that his
men had found our saddles, where we had hid them, and
that he had them safe. He also gave us an account of
thirty-six of our horses, and where they were.

Friday 9. This was a cloudy morning; some hunters
went out, and we proceeded on'tbr about six miles, when
we came to the old chief's lodge, where his family is
encamped to gather roots. W^e have now got into a part
of the country where timber is plenty, chiefly pitch pine.

Between the great falls of the Columbia and this place,
we saw more horses, than I ever before saw in the same
space of country. They are not of the largest size of
horses, but very good and active. At noon two of the
Indians went to look for our horses, and the old chief
who with one of our men who knew where some powder
and ball was buried, went to bring our packsaddles. In
the evenino; they all returned with 21 horses and about
as many packsaddles. Our horses are generally in good
order. Our hunters also returned but had killed nothing.

Saturday 10. At dark last night the weather became
13

194 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

cloudy and it rained about an liour v/hcii the rain turned
to snow, and it continued snowing all night. In the
morning the weather became clear. Where we are lying
in the plains the snow is about five inches deep; and
amidst snow and frost we have nothing whatever to eat.
Without breakfast we started to go to a village of the
natives, who live on a branch of the river, about a south
course from this place. We traveled through the snow
about 1 2 miles, and then went down a long steep descent
to the branch where the villaEre is situated. When we
were about half ways down the hill there was not a par-
ticle of snow nor the least appearance of it. It was
about 3 o'clock when we arrived at the village, and the
Commanding Officers, held a conversation with the
natives, who informed them that they had not more pro-
visions and roots, than they wanted for themselves.
They, however, divided their stock with us; and told us
what they had given was all they could spare; but drove
up some horses and told us to shoot one, which we did.
They then offered another, but that- was reserved for
another time, and we dressed the one we had killed; and
in our situation fmd it very good eating. We remained
here all night. One of the hunters who had gone on
before the party did not join us yet.

Sunday 11. This was a fine clear morning; and we
lay here all day. The natives treat us very well; the
Officers practice as pliysicians among their sick, and they
gave them a very handsome mare and colt. About 12
o'clock our hunter came in and brought two deer with
him. We now find a great many more men among the
Indians than when we went down last fall; and several
chiefs, which had then been out at war. In the evening
the natives brought in six more of our horses.

Monday 12. ^Vg had another fine morning and
remained here also to day. The natives in the course of
the day gave us four horses, one of which we killed to
eat. We also got bread made of roots, which the natives
call Ca-was, and sweet roots which they call Com- mas.
In the afternoon they brought three more of our old
stock of horses.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 195

Tuesday 13. We had a fine morning wiili wliite
frost. Having collected our horses we found we had 60
and all pretty good except four, which were studs and
had sore backs. At noon we proceeded down the
branch, which has a good deal of cotton wood, willow
and cherry trees on its banks ; and is a bold rapid stream
about 15 yards wide. We kept down the branch about
four miles ; and then came to the river where it passes
through a beautiful plain. Here we halted to wait for
a canoe, which we expected that some of the natives
would bring up the river, to assist us in crossing, when we
intend to encamp until the snow shall have sufficiently
melted to admit of our crossing the mountains. At dark
the canoe came; but it being too late to cross we encamp-
ed on the south side.

Wednesday 14. The morning was pleasant with
some white frost. Three hunters went over very early
to the north side of the river. All the rest of the men
were employed in collecting our horses and taking over
the baggage. About noon we got all the horses and
bagijage over safe: and met with one of our hunters, who
had killed two bears, some distance off. So two1 men
were dispatched wuh him to bring in the meat; and we
set about forming a camp at the remains of an ancient
village on the north side of the Koos-koos-ke river. We
were accompanied by a number of the natives, one of
whom gave us a horse; and three more of our old stock
were brought in by them. In the afternoon we had an
operation performed on seven of our horses, to render
them more peaceable; which was done by one of the
natives upon all but one. In the evening the men came
in with the meat of the two bears; and also our other
hunters who had killed three more, all of the grizly
kind. We gave some of the meat to the natives at our
camp, who cooked it in their own way; which was done
in the following manner. They first collected some
stones and heated them, upon which they placed a pact
of the meat, and upon the meat some small brush, and
so alternately meat and brush, until all the meat was on;
when the whole was covered with brush and lastly with

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 197

earth ; so that the heap or mass had something of the
appearance of a small coalpit on fire. An hour and a
half was necessary to cook it in this way. The natives
remained at our camp all night.

Thursday 15. This was a fine morning, and some
hunters went out early. The rest of the party were
engaged making places of shelter, to defend them from
the stormy weather. Some had small sails to cover their
little hovels, and others had to make frames and cover
them with grass. Around our camp the plains have the
appearance of a meadow before it is mowed, and atfords
abundance of food for our horses. Here we expect to
remain a month before we can cross the mountains.
The natives stayed all day at our camp; and one of them
had round his neck a scalp of an Indian, whh six thumbs
and four fingers of other Indians he had killed in battle,
of the Sho-sho-ne, or Snake nation. The nation here
the Cho-co-nish, is very numerous, as well as the other.
These nations have been long at war and destroyed a
great many of each other in a few years past.

From the Mandan nation to the Pacific ocean, the
arms of the Indian, are generally bows and arrows, and
the war-mallet. The war-mallet is a club with a large
head of wood or stone ; those of stone are generally

Note — "The warriors, for such it is only who suffer this punish-
ment, now perform in a more prolix manner this sad solemnity-
They recount with an audible voice all the brave action they have
performed, and pride themselves in the number of enemies they
have killed In this rehearsal they spare not even their tormentors,
but strive by every provoking tale they can invent, to irritate and
insult them. Sometimes this has the desired effect, and the suffer-
ers are despatched sooner than they otherwise would have been.

There are many other methods which the Indians make use of
to put their prisoners to death; but these are only occasional; that
of burning is most generally used.

This method of tormenting their enemies is considered by the
Indians as productive of more than one beneficial consequence. It
satiates, in a greater degree, that diabolical lust of revenge, which
is the predominant passion in the breast of every individual of
every tribe; and it gives the growing warriors an early propensity
to that cruelty and thirst of blood, which is so necessary a qualifi-
cation for such as would bo thoroughly skilled in their savage art
of war."

193 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

covered with leather, and fastened to the end of the club
with tliongs or straps of leather and the sinews of ani-
mals.*

In the afternoon two of our hunters came in and had
killed nothing but some grouse, four more continued out.

Friday 16. The morning was cloudy and some raio
fell ; but in about two hours it cleared away and we had
a fine day. An Indian performed the quieting operation
on two more of our horses. In the eveninor two more of
our hunters came in, and brought with them two deer
and some ducks. Two of the hunters still remained out.
The natives all left our camp this evening.

Saturday 17. We had a cloudy wet morning and
some lio-ht rain all dav. Our other two hunters came in
and had killed two large bears. They said it snowed on
the hills, when it rained at our camp in the valley.

Sunday 18. The morning was cloudy, but without
rain; and ten of the party turned out to hunt. None of
the natives visited us yesterday, or to day; until about
2 o'clock in the afternoon, when five' came that I had
not seen before. They remained about an hour and had
some eye water put into their eyes which were sore;
after which they went away, and an old man and his
wife came for some medicine, as the old woman was
sick. In the evening four hunters came in and had killed
nothing, but some grouse.

Monday 19. We had a cloudv wet mornins:. The
old Indian and his wife staid all ni^rht and o-ot more
medicine. A party of the men went to some Indian
lodges about four miles up the river to buy roots; and in
the afternoon returned with a good many of them. Seve-

* The publisher has seen one of these stone heads, lately found
at Hatfield, the farm of Mr. David Davis, three miles from Pitts-
bnrirh, on the Allegheny river. It is of a hard species of stone
and weighs seven ounces. It is nearly spherical with a groove cut
round to hold, as is supposed, the strap by which it is fastened to
the club. ]\Ir. Gass says it is exactly like those he had seen to the
westward. There is perhaps nothing which in form it so much
resembles as a common round pincusliion. In close combat the
war-mallet, when skillfully wielded, must be a destructive and
deadly weapon.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 199

ral of the natives came to our camp Avith the men and
in the evening all went away. AV'e got another of our
old stock of horses; and have now all we left except
three; two of which the old Snake guide took with him.
At dark two of our hunters came in but had not killed
any thing. The day was fair during the whole of the
afternoon.

Tuesday 20. We again had a very wet morning.
Two more of our hunters came in, but had kdled nothing,
It continued raining till about noon, when we had fair
weather whh some sunshine. The hunters said it also
snowed on the hill to-day, where they were hunting,
while it rained at our camp. About 2 o'clock in the
afternoon, another hunter came in and brought a deer
he had killed. In the afternoon four of our hunters
again went out. In the evening there were some light
showers.

Wednesday 21. This was a cloudv mornins'. Two
more hunters went out; and some men set about making
a canoe to fish in, when the salmon came up, as we do
not expect to leave this place before the middle of June.
To day we made a small lodge of poles and covered it
with grass, for Captain Lewis and Captain Clarke, as
their tent is not sufficient to defend them from the rain.
At 10 o'clock the weather became clear, and in the even-
ing, was cold.

Thursday 22. We had a fine clear morninii with
some white frost. At 3 o'clock five of our hunters came
in with five deer; previous to which we had killed a fine
colt. In the afternoon we saw a great number of the
natives on horseback pursuing a deer on the opposite
side of the river. They drove it so hard that it was
obliged to take the water, when some of our men went
down the bank and shot it, and the natives got on a raft
and caught it. These Indians are the most active horse-
men I ever saw: they will gallop their horses over pre-
cipices, that I should not think of riding over at all.

The frames of their saddles are made of wood nicely
jointed, and then covered with raw skins, which when
they become dry, bind every part tighi, and keep the

200 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

joints in iheir places. The saddles rise very high before
and behind, in ihc manner of the saddles of the Span-
iards, from whom they no doubt received the form; and
also obtained their breed of horses. When the Indians
are going to mount they throw their buffalo robes over
the saddles and ride on them, as the saddles would other-
wise be too hard.

CHAPTER XXI.

Friday 23. We again had a fine morning. One of
our sergeants shot a deer at a lick close to our camp, and
^vounded it very bad, but it got to the river and swam
over. Two young Indians who had been at our camp
all night, then mounted their horses, swam over and
drove it back; and we killed it and gave them half of it.
The river is about two hundred yards wide and cold and
:rapid. In the afternoon all the hunters came in but had
killed nothing more. .

Saturday 24. This was another fine morning, and
two liunters went out. One of the iTen ihat was sick,
still keeps unwell, wdih a bad pain in his back; and is in
a helpless state. Yesterday we gave him an Indian
sweat and he is some better to-day.

Sunday 25. This was a cloudy morning, and some
light showers of rain fell. Five more hunters went out
to-day. In the evening of yesterday two of the natives
brought an Indian to our camp, who had lost the use of
his limbs, to see if the officers could cure him, and to
day we gave him a sweat. Our interpreter's child has
been very sick, but is getting better. In the afternoon
the two hunters who went out yesterday returned; but
had not killed any thing. The weather became clear
and we had a fine evening, and three more hunters went
out.

Monday 26. This day was fine and pleasant, and we

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 201

finished our canoe and put her into the water. In the
afternoon two hunters came in, but had not killed any-
thing: they had procured some roots at a village about
fourteen miles up the river. Our stock of provisions is
exhausted, and we have nothing to eat but some roots,
which we get from the natives at a very dear rate.

Tuesday 27. The morning was fair and pleasant,
and several of our men went to the villages around us to
procure roots. These roots are a good diet, but in gen-
eral we do not relish them so well as meat. We there-
fore killed another horse to day, which one of the natives
gave us sometime ago for that purpose. He was so wild
and vicious that we could not manage him, or do any
thing with him.

Our sick man is getting some better, and the interpre-
ter's child is recovering fast. The Indian, that we have
under cure, had another sweat to day; and our horses,
that have had the quieting operation performed on them
are all mending. In the afternoon some rain fell, and
three of our hunters came in, and brought with them
five deer; they had killed: three men also came in from
the villages and brought a good supply of roots; six yet
remaining out.

Wednesday 28. This was a cloudy foggy morning.
Some hunters went out this morning, and in the afternoon
three of them came in with eight deer; at the same time
three more of our men returned from the villages.

Thursday 29. The morning was cloudy and wet, and
the river is rising very fast, which gives us hopes that
the snow is leaving the mountains. At 10 o'clock the
river ceased rising and the weather became clear.

Friday 30. The morning was fine, with a little fog.
Two of our men in a canoe attempting to swim their
horses over the river, struck the canoe against a tree,
and she immediately sunk; but they got on shore, with
the loss of three blankets, a blanket-coat, and some arti-
cles of merchandize they had whh them to exchange for
roots. The loss of these blankets is the greatest which
hath happened to any individuals since we began our
voyage, as there are only three men in the party, who

202 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

have more than a blanket apiece. The river is so high
that the trees stand some distance in the water. In the
afternoon one of our hunters came in, who with another
had killed three deer, which one||^them stayed to take
care of as their horses had left them.

Saturday 31. AVc had a fine clear morning with a
heavy dew. The hunters went out with two horses for
the venison ; and two men went over the river to the villa-
ges. About noon a deer was seen swimming the river
and some of our men killed it. Our canoe still lies under
water at the opposite shore, but we have a small Indian
canoe, that serves to cross in. In the afternoon the two
men came from the village with some of the natives, and
one of our old stock of horses; which is the last, except the
two which they assure us the old Snake guide took. In
the evening the weather became cloudy, and we had
some rain with sharp thunder and lightening. The two
hunters came in with the venison.

Sunday, June 1, 1806. We had a fine morning after
some li"ht showers of rain during the nisfht. Since last
evening the river rose eighteen inches. Two hunters
went out this morning, and some of the natives came to
see us. The sick Indian is getting much better. The
officers got some bear skins from the Indians, that are
almost as white as a blanket. They say that the bears
from which they get these skins are a harmless kind, and
not so bold and ferocious as the grizly and brown bear. '

Monday 2. The morning was cloudy, and six of the
men went out to hunt. About noon three men, who had
gone over to Lewis's river, about two and a half days'
journey distant, to get some fish, returned with a few
very good salmon, and some roots which they bought at
theditferent villages of the natives, which they passed.
One of these men got two S|)anish dollars from an Indian
for an old razor. They said they got the dollars from
about a Snake Indian's neck, they had killed some time
a2;o. There are several dollars among these people
whi ch they get in some way. ^^'e suppose the Snake
Ind ians, some of whom do not live very far from
Ne w 3Iexico, get them from the Spaniards in that quar-

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 203

ter. The Snake Indians also get horses from the Span-
iards. Tlie men had a very disagreeable trip as the
roads were mountainous and slippery. They saw a
number of deer, and Si the ibex or big-horn.

Tuesday 3. This was a cloudy morning with a few
drops of rain; and there were some light showers during
the forenoon a! • intervals. The river rises in the
night and falls in the day time; which is occasioned by
the snow melting by the heat of the sun on the moun-
tains, Vv' hich are too distant for the snow water to reach
this place until after night. In the evening three hun-
ters came in with the meat of five deer and a small bear.
Several of the natives continued at our camp.

Wednesday 4. It rained slowlv almost all last nisht,
and for some time this morning. The river fell consi-
derably yesterday, and in the night rose only an inch
and an half. At noon one of our hunters came in with
two deer he had killed. The afternoon was clear and
pleasant.

Thursday 5. This was a fine pleasant mornmg witli
heavy dew. In the afternoon four hunters came in with
the meat of five more deer, and a bear. An Indian came
with them, who had been part of the way over the moun-
tains; but found the road too bad and the snow too deep
to cross; so we are obliged to remain where we are some-
time longer.

Friday 6. The morning was pleasant, and Captain
Clarke and five of the party went over the river to buy
some roots at the villages, and in the evening returned
with a good supply accompanied by some of the natives.

Saturday 7. We had a cloudy morning with a few
drops of rain. I went over with live of our party to the
village, on the other side of the river; and while we were
going some snow fell. The greater part of the natives
were out huntmg. In the evening we all returned to
camp, except two, who remained at the village. Some
of the natives again came to visit us, one of whom gave
a horse to one of our men, who is very fond of conver-
sinor with them and of learnincr their language.

Sunday 8. This was a pleasant morning; and our

204 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

two men came over from tlio village, and a hunter, who
had been out, returned without killing any thing. Seve-
ral of the natives still slay about our camp, and are of
opinion we cannot cross the mountains for some time yet.
We, however, mean to remove a short distance to where
the hunting is better.

Monday 9. This was a fine pleasant day. We
caught all our horses and hoppled them, so that we might
get them easily to-morrow. We also exchanged some
mares with young colts, and some of the horses who had
not got quite well, for others more capable of bearing the
fatigue of crossino- the mountains.

Tuesday 10. We collected all our horses, but one,
and set out accompanied by several of the natives, travel-
ed about 12 miles and arrived at what we call the Com-
mas flat, where we first met the natives after crossing
the Rocky Mountains last fall. Here we encamped and
some hunters went out. The com-mas grow in great
abundance on this plain; and at this lime looks beautiful,
being in full bloom with flowers of a pale blue color. At
night our hunters came in and had killed one deer.

Wednesday 11. We had a fine morning wiih some
while frost. Several of the men turned out to hunt; and
returned at noon having killed a bear and two deer. In
this plain there are the most strawberry vines I ever saw,
and now all in blossom. This j)lain contains about two
thousand acres, and is surrounded with beautiful pine
timber of different kinds. The soil is very good; the
underwood among the limber chiefly service-berry and
goose-berry bushes. In ihe evening several of the men
started, with an intention of encamping out, to hunt; and
one went back to our late camp to look for the horse,
which had been left behind. The natives all left us and
we remained in quietness by ourselves.

Thursday 12. We had a fine lovely morning with a
heavy dew. 1 went out with some of the party to hunt;
about 8 o'clock the musketoes became very troublesome;
and at ten all came in without any success. About the
same lime the man, who had gone back for the horse
returned with him. About an hour after four hunters,

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 205

■who had been out during the night came in ; three of them
had been without success, but the other brought in two
deer. There are a good many deer here, and some
bears, but they are very wild, as they are much pursued
by the natives. There is no game of any other kind,
except squirrels and some other small animals. The
squirrels are about the size of our common grey squir-
rels, and very handsome. They are of a brown grey
color, beautifully speckeled with small brown spots, and
burrow in the ground. We killed several of them since
wo came to this camp. The magpie is also plenty here, and
woodpeckers of a different kind from any I had before
seen. They are about the size of a common red-headed
woodpecker; but are all black except the belly and neck,
where the ends of the feathers are tipped with a deep
red, but this tipping extends to so short a distance on the
feathers, that at a distance the bird looks wholly black.
In the afternoon one of the natives came to our camp,
and one of the two hunters that were out, returned but
had killed nothing. In the evening some hunters went
out with intention to stay all night. The Indian who
came to our camp said he had a notion to cross the moun-
tp.ins with us.

Friday 13. This was a fine morning, and a hunter
or two went out. The Indian exchanged horses with
one of our men, whose horse had not recovered, and was
unable to cross tha mountains; and then went home to
the village. At noon two of our men took their loads and
went on ahead about eight miles to a small prairie to
hunt until we should come up. During the afternoon the
men who went out yesterday to hunt returned with eight
deer. In the evening the weather became cloudy. The
musketoes are very troublesome.

Saturday 14. We had a cloudy morning. Some
hunters again went out; at 10 o'clock one came in with
a deer; and in the evening the rest of them, but they had
not killed any thing.

Sunday 16. This was a cloudy wet morning with
some thunder. We left Com-mas flat to attempt to cross
the mountains; and had sixty-six horses, all very good.

20G JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

We ascended a high mountahi wiih a good deal of diffi-
cidiy, as the path was very slippery, but got over safe to
a small j)rairie, where the two men, who had gone on
ahead had killed two deer and hung them up. ^Vc took
the meat, and proceeded down the hill and found the
hunters, who had killed another deer. We halted at a
creek and took dinner; then proceeded over a very diffi-
cult road on account of the fallen timber. We had rain
at intervals during the forenoon, but the afternoon was
clear. We encamped in a small glade where there was
plenty of grass for the horses.

Monday 16. We had a pleasant morning, and renew-
ed our journey; went up a handsome creek about three
miles, and then took to the hills which are very rough
\viih a great many banks of snow, some of them four or
five feet deep. These banks are so closely packed and
condensed, that they carry our horses, and are all in a
thawing state. We halted for dinner at a handsome
stream where there was some grass for our horses; and
in about two hours proceeded on again,' and had some
rain. In the afternoon we found the snow banks more
numerous, extensive and deep: in some of them the
snow was as much as eight feet deep. In the evening
we came to Hungry creek (where Captain Clarke killed
ahorse last fall and left it for the party) and encamped,
that our horses might g3t some grass as we do not expect
they will get any sooii again; and there is not much
here.

Tuesday 17. This was a cloudy morning, but without
rain. We early continued our march; took down Hun-
gry creek about six miles, and then took up a large
mountain. When we got about half way up the moun-
tain the ground was entirely covered with snow three feet
deep; and as we ascended it still became deeper, until
we arrived at the top, where it was twelve or fifteen feet
deep ; but it in general carried our horses. Here there was
not the appearance of a green shrub, or any thing for
our horses to subsist on; and we know it cannot be better
for four days march even could we find the road or
course, which appears almost impossible, without a guide

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 207

perfectly acquainted with the mountains. We therefore
hahed to determine what was best to be done, as it appear-
ed not only imprudent but highly dangerous to proceed
without a guide of any kind. After remaining about two
hours we concluded it would be most adviseable to go
back to some place where there was food for our horses.
We therefore hung up our loading on poles, tied to and
extended between trees, covered it all safe with deer
skins, and turned back melancholy and disappointed. At
this time it began to rain; and we proceeded down to
Hungry creek again; went up it about two miles, and
encamped for the night where our horses could get some-
thing to eat. The grass and plants here are just putting
out, and the shrubs budding. It rained hard during the
afternoon.

Wednesday 18. The morning was cloudy and seve-
al showers of rain fell during the day. We started
about 8 o'clock, and found the roads very slippery and
bad. Two men went on ahead to the vilhige to enquire
for a guide, and two more remained to look for two horses
that could not be found. We proceeded on whh four
^iienin front to cut some bushes out of the path; but did
not go far till one of the men cut himself very badly
with a large knife; when we had to halt and bind up his
wound. We again went forward, and in crossing the
creek the horse of one of our men fell with him, threw
him off, hurt his leg and lost his blanket. We halted for
dinner at the same place where we dined on the 16th and
had a gust of rain, hail, thunder and lightning, which
lasted an hour, when the weather cleared and we had a
fine afternoon. We continued our march till we came
to a small glade on the branch of a creek, where we
encamped, and some hunters went out in the evening;
we had left two men to hunt at the place where we dined.
We found the musketoes very troublesome on the creek,
notwithstanding the snow is at so short a distance up the
mountains. At night our hunters came to camp, having
killed nothing; but saw some large fish in the creek,
which they supposed were salmon.

Thursday 19. This was a fine morning; some hun-

208 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

tcrs went out and wg agreed to stay here all day that our
horses miwhi rest and feed. At 10 o'clock our hunters
came in and had killed a deer. Two men are trying to
take some of the fish with a gig. At noon the two men
who had been left at Hungry creek to look for the
horses came up, but had not found them: and with them
the two hunters, who were left at the place we
dined yesterday; and had killed two deer. In the even-
ing one of the largest fish was caught which we found to
be a salmon-trout.

Friday 20. This was a fine morning; we caught six
of the salmon-trout; and some hunters went out. About
9 o'clock one of them returnea and had killed a brown
bear. The musketoes and gnats are very troublesome.
In the evening the other hunters came in and had killed
only one deer.

CHAPTER XXn.

Saturday 21. We had again a fine morning; and we
collected our horses in order to return to Com-mas flat.
We proceeded on to a creek, where Ave met two young
Indians, who said they were coming to go over the moun-
tains with us. We halted here for dinner; after which
all our party proceeded on to Com-mas flat, except
myself and two men who remained here to hunt. We
wish to kill as much meat as v.ill serve the party, until
we get back where our loading was left, as we have
plenty of roots there to serve us over the mountains.
One of our best horses got snagged to day, and was left
liere. The two Indians remained with us, and in the
evening one of the men killed a deer.

Sunday 22. We had a pleasant day. The two hun-
ters went out early and the Indians remained with me
at camp. At noon the hunters came in, but had killed

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 209

nothing but one small pheasant. In the evening they
made another excursion, but were unsuccessful.

Monday 23. We had again a fine morning; and the
men went out to hunt. While thev were out the two
Indians went on. About 10 o'clock the hunters came in
without having kdled any thing; and at noon two men
came to our camp with orders for four of us to follow the
Indians, if they were gone, until we should overtake
them, and get them to halt if possible, till the party
should come up; but if not, to follow them on and blaze
the way after them; as the man who had gone to inquire
for a guide had not returned, and it was not known
whether he would get one or not. The men said they
had good luck at the Com-mas flat, having killed ten
deer and three bears. I immediately started with three
of the men after the Indians, leaving one to take care of
the camp, and the lame horse and some more that were
there. VVe proceeded on till we came to the creek
where we had stayed the 19ih and 20th, and overtook
the Indians encamped there, and encamped with them.

They had caught two salmon-trout since they came
to this camp; and shortly after we came, one of our men
killed a duck; and we remained together during the night.

Tuesday 24. This was a cloudy morning. We gave
each of the Indians a pair of moccasons, and they
agreed to stay to-day and wait for the party. One of our
hunters went out, but had no . success. The day keeps
cloudy, and the musketoes are very troublesome. There
is also a small black fly in this country, that so torments
our horses, that they can get no rest, but when we make
small fires to keep them ofl*. At noon two hunters went
on ahead to a small creek, to endeavor to kill some pro-
visions, as we cannot kill any here; and unless the party
come up to night, I intend to go on with the Indians
to-morrow morning. In the evening the party arrived
with three more Indians, and we all encamped together
for the night.

Wednesday 25. There was a light shower of rain
this morning. We proceeded forward early; and two
men and an Indian were sent ahead to look for the horses
14

210 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

we lefi behind when wo were here before. At noon we
halted at ihe creek where two men were hunting, but
they had killed nothing. We here took dinner, and pro-
ceeded on to Hungry creek, where we met the men with
the horses, and encamped for the night. A considerable
quantity of rain had fallen during the afternoon.

Thursday 26. We liad a foggy morning; proceeded
on early; and found the banks of snow much decreased:
at noon we arrived at the place where we had left our
baggage and stores. The snow here had sunk twenty
inches. We took some dinner, but there was nothing for
our horses to eat. We measured the depth of the snow
here and found it 10 feet 10 inches. We proceeded over
some very steep' tops of the mountains and deep snow;
but the snow was not so deep in the drafts between them;
and fortunately we got in the evening to the side of a
hill v.here the sno"lv was gone; and there was very good
grass for our horses. So we encamped there all night.
Some heavy showers of rain had fallen in the afternoon.

Friday 27. We had a cloudy morning and at 8 o'clock
we renewed our march, proceeding over some of the
steepest mountains 1 ever passed. The snow is so deep
that we cannot wind along the sides of these steeps, but
must slide straight down. The horses generally do not
sink more than three inches in the snow; but sometimes
they break through to their bellies. We kept on without
halting to about 5 o'clock in the evening, when we stop-
ped at the side of a hill where the snow was off, and
where there was a little grass; and we here encamped for
the night. The day was pleasant throughout; but it
appeared to me somewhat extraordinary, to be traveling
over snow six or eight feet deep in the latter end of June.
The most of us, however, had saved our socks as we
expected to find snow on these mountains.

Saturday 28. The morning was pleasant, we set out
early, and passed the place where we had encamped on
the 15ili September last when the snow fell on us. After
passing this place about a mile, we took a left hand path,
and traveled along high ridges till noon, when we came
to a good place of grass; where we halted and remained

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 211

all the afternoon to let our horses feed, as they had but
little grass last night. Some hunters went out, as we
saw some elk signs here, and our meat is exhausted.
We still have a good stock of roots, which we pound and
make thick soup of, that eats very well. In the evening
our hunters came in but had not killed any thing. On
the south side of this ridge there is summer with grass
and other herbage in abundance; and on the north side,
winter with snow six or eight feet deep.

Sunday 29. This was a foggy morning. We set out
early, proceeded over some bad, hills, and came to the
old path; at which time there wal a shower of rain, with
hail, thunder and lightnii7.g, that lasted about an hour.
At 10 o'clock we left the snow, and in the eveninsj we
arrived at the warm spring; where we encamped for the
night, and most of us bathed in its water. One of our
hunters killed a deer where we dined at the glades or
plains on Glade creek; and where there is good grass,
and com-mas also grows. Two other hunters went on
ahead and killed another deer on the way.

Monday 30. ,We continued our march early and had
a fine morning. When we were ready to set out, we
saw a deer coming to a lick at the hot spring, and one of
our hunters shot it. Two hunters went on ahead. At
noon another went out a short time, and killed a fine deer.
Wc halted for dinner at the same place, where we dined
on the 12th of September 1805, as we passed over to the
Western ocean. After dinner we proceeded on, and on our
way found three deer that one of the hunters had killed and
left for us. In the evening we arrived at Travelers'-rest
creek, where the party rested two days last fall, and
where it empties into Flathead (called Clarke's) river, a
beautiful river about one hundred yards wide at this place;
but there is no fish of any consequence in it; and accord-
ing to the Indian account, there are falls on it, between
this place and its mouth, where it empties into the Colum-
bia, six or seven hundred feet high; and which probably
prevents the fish from coming up. Here we encamped
and met with the hunters.

Tuesday, July 1, 1806. We had a fine morning,

212 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

and remained here to rest ourselves and horses afier the
severe fatigue of coming over the mountains, and some
hunters went out. The Indians still continue with us.
Here the party is to be separated; some of us are to go
strait across to the falls of the Missouri and some to the
head waters of Jefferson river, where we left the canoes.
At the falls we expect to be subdivided, as Captain Lewis,
myself and four or five men intend to go up Maria's river
as far as the 50th degree of lathudc; and a party to
remain at the falls to prepare harness and other things
necessary for hauling our canoes and baggage over the
portage. Perhaps Captain Clarke, who goes up the river
here, may also take a party and go down the Riviere
Jaune, or Yellow-stone river. In the afternoon our hun-
ters came in, and had killed twelve deer, most of them
in good order.

Wednesday 2. We continued here during this day,
which was fine and pleasant, fixing our loading and
making other arrangements for our separation. One of
our hunters, went out and killed two deer. The
musketoes are very troublesome at this place.

CHAPTER XXIII.

Thursday 3. We had again a fine morning; collected
our horses and set out. Captain Lewis and his party
went down Clarke's river and Captain Clarke with the
rest of the party went up it. All the natives accompani-
ed Captain Lewis. We proceeded on down Clarke's
river about 12 miles, when we came to the forks; and
made three rafts to carry ourselves and baggage over.
The river here is about 150 yards wide, and very beau-
tiful. We had to make three trips with our rafts, and in
the evening got all over safe; when we moved on up the
north branch, which is our way over to the falls of the
Missouri, and after traveling a mile and a half encamped

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 213

for the ni2;ht. Two hunters went out and killed three
deer. The musketoes are worse here than I have known
them at any place, since we left the old Maha village on
the jMissouri. This north branch of the river is called
by the natives Isquet-co-qual-la, which means, the road
to the buffalo.*

Friday 4. We had a beautiful morning and waited
here some time in order to have a morning hunt, as our
guides intend to return, and we wish to give them a plen-
tiful supply of provisions to carry them back over the
mountains. While our hunters were out a young Indian
came to our camp, who had crossed the mountains after
us. At 10 o'clock our hunters came in, but had not
killed any thing. We were, however, able to furnish
them with two deer and a half, from those that were
killed yesterday. We then gave them some presents and
took a friendly leave of them: audit is but justice to say,
that the whole xiation to which they belong, are the most
friendly, honest and ingenuous people that we have seen
in the course of our vo5"age and travels. After taking
ofir farewell of these good hearted, hospitable and obli-
ging sons of the west, we prodeeded on up Isquet-co-
qual-la a handsome prairie of about 10 miles, after which
the hills comes close on the river, on both sides, and we
had a rough road to pass. Having made 18 miles we
encamped for the night; where the country is very moun-
tainous on both sides of the river, which runs nearly east
and west, and is a deep rapid stream about 80 yards wide.

Saturday 5. We had another beautiful morning, set
out early and proceeded on the same course as yesterday
through a rousfh countrv, with a number of branches or
small streams flowing from the hills. We killed one
deer, and about 1 1 o'clock came to a valley three quar-

* The route taken by Captain Lewis and his party is the direct
road to tlie falls of the Missouri, mentioned in Captain Clarke's
letter; that taken by Captain Clarke and his party leads to the head
waters of the main branch of the Missouri, v/hich they ascended
in their outward bound voyage, and which is a considerable dis-
tance south of the direct course from the falls to the crossincr
place of the great chain of Rocky Mountains.

2U JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

ters of a mile wide, all })lains, where we halted to dine
and to let our horses feed. The hills upon each side are
handsomely covered with timber of the fir kind. W^bile
we rested here one of our hunters killed a cabre or ante-
lope. At 1 o'clock we proceeded on again up the valley.
When we had gone about nine miles we came to and
crossed a river, about 35 yards wide, which flows in
with a rapid current from some snow topped mountains
on the north, where the valley is two or three miles wide.
Having gone about four miles further we came to the
head of the valley, where the hills come close upon the
river for two miles. After we had passed these nar-
rows we came to another large and beautiful valley four
or five miles wide, and all plains, except some timber on
the river banks. In the evening we encamped on the
bank of a handsome creek which comes in from the
north, a bold stream of 15 yards wide.

Sunday 6. We had a tine clear mornins; with some
white frost, and renewed our journey early; saw a great
many service berries, not yet ripe, and some flax which
grows on these plains. Having gone about seven miles
we crossed a north branch of the Co-qual-la-isquet,
which is 40 yards wide and was mid-rib deep on our
horses, with a rapid current. About seven miles up the
valley we passed a beautiful small lake; where the river
and road leaves the valley, and bears towards the north-
east between two hills not very largo. We kept up the
river, through a small brushy valley about the eighth of a
mile wide, for a mile and a half, and then halted for din-
ner. Here our two hunters came to us, and had killed a
deer. W^e keep two men out every day hunting. In
this small valley there is a considerable quantity of cot-
ton wood timber; and the musketoes are very trouble-
some. At 1 o'clock we proceeded on, passed a number
of handsome streams which fall into the river, and a num-
ber of old Indian lodges. As we advance the valley
becomes more extensive, and is all plain. At night we
encamped on a beautiful creek, having traveled twenty
five miles. Our hunters killed four deer to day.

Monday 7. ^^'e had a wet night, and a cloudy morn-

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 2l5

ing. Continued our journey early along the valley,
which is very beautiful with a great deal of clover on its
plains. Having gone about five miles, we crossed the
main branch of the river, which comes in from the north:
and up which the road goes about five miles further and
then takes over a hill towards the east. On the top of
this hill there are two beautiful ponds, of about three
acres in size. We passed over the ridge and struck a
small stream, which we at first thought was of the head
waters of the INIissouri, but found it was not. Here we
halted for dinner, and after staying three hours, proceed-
ed on four miles up the branch, when we came to the
dividing ridge between the waters of the Missouri and
Columbia; passed over the ridge and came to a fine spring
the waters of which run into the Missouri. We then
kept down this stream or branch about a mile; then turn-
ed a north course along the side of the dividing ridge for
eight miles, nassino; a number of small streams or bran-
ches, and at 9 o'clock at night encamped after coming
thirty two miles.

Tuesday 8. The morning was pleasant with some
white frost. We started early and proceeded on nearly
north; saw several deer, cabre and wolves in the plains,
and after going three miles and a half passed torrent
creek, a large creek that runs into Medicine river.
Shortly after we passed this creek we went off the path
or trail, traveled straight across the plains, and in about
fifteen miles struck Medicine river, close above the forks
where we halted for dinner; and one of our hunters
killed a deer and a cabre. In the afternoon we proceed-
ed down Medicine river nine miles; and having come in
the whole to day twenty eight miles encatnped for the
night; and found the musketoes very troublesome.

Wednesday 9. A cloudy morning. We set out early
to go down the river; but had not proceeded far until it
began to rain, and we halted at some old Indian lodges,
where we took shelter. In an hours time the rain slack-
ened, and we proceeded on; but had not gone far before
it began to rain again, and the weather was very cold for
the season. At noon we came up whh our hunters, who

216 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

had killed a large buffalo; so we halted and some of us
went and dressed it, and brought in the best of the meat
which was very good. A\ e encamped here and lay by
duriniT the afternoon as the rain continued durinfj the
whole of it.

Thursday 10. At dark last evonino; the weather clear-
ed up, and was cold all night. This morning was clear
and cold, and all the mountains in sight were covered
with snow, which fell yesterday and last night.* At 8
o'clock we started down the river, and in the course of
the day our hunters killed five deer, two elk and a bear.
The road was very muddy after the rain. The country
on both sides is composed of beautiful plains; the river
about 80 yards wide and tolerably straight, with some
cotton wood timber on its banks; and plenty of game of
different kinds ranging through the plains. Having made
24 miles we encamj)ed for the night.

Friday 11. This was a fine morning and we set out
early to cross the point, and having, gone eight miles,
came to the Missouri at the Boar islands, nearly opposite
our old encamjMneiit. Here our hunters, in a short time,
killed five bufialo; and we saved the best of the meat;
and of the skins made two canoes to transport ourselves
and baggage across the river. The buffalo are in large
droves about this place.

Saturday 12. Again a fine morning. We went out
to collect our horses and found that ten of them were
missing. I then set out to look for them, went seven
miles up Medicine river, where I found three of them
and returned to c#mp. Two more went to hunt for them
and the rest of us crossed the river in our new craft
which we find answer the jiurpose very well. At night
one of the men returned without finding the lost horses.

Sunday 13. The morning was pleasant, and we mov-

* It will not be a subject of surprise that snow siiould fall here
in the niidclle of s\uniner, when the elevation of this part of the
country, wliich divides the eastern from the western waters, is
taken into view. Every person will be able to comprehend, that
no small decree of elevation, above its mouth, will be sullicient to
give so rapid a course to the Missouri for upwards of 3U00 miles,
even supposing there were no great fulls or cataracts.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 217

ed about a mile up to our old encampment; opened a
deposit we had made here and found some things spoiled;
and the other man that went to look for the horses not
being returned we remained here all day airing and sun-
ning; the bafTo-aae and stores. The musketoes torment
us very much, and the wolves continually howl night
and day round our camp.

Monday 14. This was a pleasant morning. We
staid here also to day; and ihe musketoes continued to
torment us until about noon, when a fine breeze of wind
arose and drove them, for a while, away. We deposited
the most valuable part of our baggage and stores on a
large island so that if the Indians came they would not
get it.

Tuesday 15. We had pleasant weather. One of our
men started to go down to the other end of the portage, to
see if the periogue was safe, which we had left there;
and in the afternoon the man who had gone after the
horses returned unsuccessful; but as he saw some fresh
Indian signs he supposes they were stolen and taken back
over the dividing ridge. Capt. Lewis therefore concluded
to take fewer men and horses with him than he had
intended on his excursion up Maria's river. In the even-
ing the man who had started to go to the other end of the
portage, returned without being there. A white bear met
him at Willow creek, that so freightened his horse, that
he threw him off among the feet of the animal; but he
fortunately (being too near to shoot) had sufficient pre-
sence of mind to hit the bear on the head with his gun;
and the stroke so stunned it, that it gave him tmie to get
up a tree close by before it could seize him. The blow,
however, broke the gun and rendered it useless; and the
bear watched him about three hours and went awav;
when he came down, caught his horse about two miles
distant and returned to camp. These bears are very
numerous in this part of the country and very danger-
ous, as they will attack a man every opportunity.

Wednesday 16. This was a fine morning. We col-
lected our horses, of which Captain Lewis took six and
left four to haul the canoes and baggage over the portage ;

218 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

and then started to go up Maria's river with only three
hunters. We continued hero to repair our waggons or
truckles to transport the baggage and canoes on when the
men with them should arrive. The musketoes are still
very troublesome.

When Captain Lewis left us, he gave orders that we
should wait at the mouth of Maria's river to the 1st of
September, at which time, should he not arrive, we were
to proceed on and join Captain Clarke at the mouth of
the Yellow-ston(' river, and then to return home: but
informed us, that should his life and health be preserved
he would meet us at the mouth of Maria's river on the
5th of August.

Thursday 17. We had a pleasant day, and high wind;
which drives away the musketoes and relieves us from
those tormenting insects.

Friday 18. This was another pleasant day, and I
went down with three of the men to the lower end of the
portage to examine the periogue and deposite there,
and found all safe. ^V'e took some tobacco out of the
deposit, covered up all again, until the party should arrive
with the canoes, and then returned to camp.

Saturday 19. The weather continues pleasant and
most of the men are employed in dressing skins, as we
have got all ready for crossing the portage as soon as
the canoes arrive. The musketoes were very trouble-
some to day. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon a sergeant
and nine men arrived at our camp with the canoes and
some ba^cragc. They informed me that thev had a o;ood
passage over the mountains to the Missouri; and on their
way saw a boiling hot spring, which in twenty five min-
utes would boil meat put into it quite well and fit for
eating. This s[)ring is on the head waters of Wisdom
river. They had got to the canoe deposite on the 8th
inst. and found every thing safe: the whole party then
came down to the forks at the mouth of Jefferson river;
where Cai)tain Clarke with ten men and the interpreter
left them and went up Gallatin's river in order to cross
over to the Jaune, or Yellow Stone river. They had
plenty of provisions all the way. In the evening we
hauled the canoes out to drv.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 219

Sunday 20. We had a fine day; but the musketoes
were very bad. We concluded to stay here all day, as
the men who had come with the canoes, \vere fatigued;
and in the evening tried our horses in harness and found
they would draw very well.

Monday 21. A pleasant morning. One of the men
went out for the horses; and the rest of us put two canoes
on the wagons, and moved them forward by hand sonae
distance, when the man returned without finding; the hor-
ses. Two more then went out to look for them, and at
noon came back without finding them. In the afternoon
some more men went to look for them, who at night
returned also without seeing any thing of them; and we
lay where the canoes were all night.

Tuesday 22. We had a fine morning. Eight of us
started in various directions to look for the horses, and in
a short time two of the men found them; harnassed them
in the wagons and moved on about four miles, when one
of the axletrees broke; and they returned to the river to
mend it. Myself and one of the men did not return till
dark, and then came to the place where the canoes were
upon the plains, with some of the men. Here a heavy
shower of rain came on whh thunder and lightning;
and we remained at this place all night.

Wednesday 23. This was a pleasant morning after
the rain; and I went with the man who c.anie with me
last night, and joined the party at the river. They had
repaired the wagons and put on two more canoes; one
of which was very large and gave us a great deal of
trouble, as we could not make axletrees out of the willow
that would stand more than six or eight miles. At 5
o'clock we got to Willow creek, and encamped for the
night; and made a new axletree. In our way to day one
of the men cut his leg very bad with a knife, which so
lamed him that he had to ride in one of the canoes.

Thursday 24. This was a cloudy morning. I was
very much indisposed last night and am yet very unwell.
I therefore staid at this camp, and the paity went back
for two more canoes. About 3 o'clock one of the wagr-
gons with a canoe arrived, and the party with it; having

220 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

let the horses feed a wliile, and taken dinner, they pro-
ceeded on to Portage river. About an hour after they
started a very heavy shower of rain, accompanied with
thunder and lightning, came on, and lasted about an hour
and a half. After this we had a fine evening, and a little
before sunset the other wagon with a canoe arrived;
when we encamped for the night. The man who cut
his leg is still very lame and continues at this camp.

Friday 25. This was a fine morning with a very
heavy dew. The party set out early to Portage river
with the 'canoe; and in a short time the men with the
other wagon came back; I was by this time so much
recovered as to be able to return whh the party for
another canoe; which is all we will bring over, as the
other is very heavy and injured; and we expect that the
five small ones with the periogues will be sufficient to
carry ourselves and baggage down the Missouri. About
2 o'clock the wagons met at Willow creek, when we
had another very heavy shower of rain accompanied
with thunder and liahtninfj. At 3 o'clock we set out with
both the wagons and two canoes to Portage river; it
rained hard on us all the wav, and the road was so mud-
dy that the horses were not able to haul the loads, without
the assistance of every man at the wagons. At night
we arrived at Portage river, and then had four canoes
there safe.

Saturday 26. The morning was cloudy. Eight of
us went back to Willow creek for the other canoe, and
the rest of the party were employed in taking down the
canoes and baggage to the lower end of the portage,
wdiere the periogue had been left. It rained very hard
all night, which has made the plains so muddy, that it is
with the greatest dilHculiy we can get along with the
canoe;. though in the evening, after a hard day's labor
we got her safe to Portage river, and the men run her
down to the lower landing place, where we encamped.
A {(iw drops of rain fell iii the course of the day.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 221

CHAPTER XXIV.

Sunday 27. Is a fine clear pleasant morning, myself
and one of ilie men crossed the river with the horses, in
order to go by land to the mouth of Maria's river: the rest
of the party here are to go by water. We proceeded on
through the plains about twenty mjiles, and in our way
saw a great many buffalo. We then struck Tansy or
Rose river, which we kept down about ten miles and
encamped. The land along this river is handsomely
covered with Cotton wood timber and there is abundance
of game of different kinds. In our way we killed a
buffalo and a goat. The w^olves in packs occasionally
hunt these goats, which are too swift to be run down and
taken by a single wolf. The wolves having fixed upon
their intended prey and taken their stations, a part of the
pack commence the chase, and running it in a circle,
are at certain intervals relieved by others. In this man-
ner they are able to run a goat down. At the falls where
the wolves are plenty, I had an oppotunity of seeing one
of these hunts.

Monday 28. The morning wj\s fine and pleasant,
and at an early hour we proceeded down the river. In
our way we killed six goats or antelopes and seven
buffalo; and about 1 o'clock came to the point at the
mouth of Maria's river, where we met with the party
who had come down from the falls by water, and who
had just arrived; and also unexpectedly with Captain
Lewis and the three men who had gone with him. They
had joined the party descending the river this forenoon,
after riding one hundred and twenty miles since yester-
day morning, when they had a skermish with a party of
the Prairie Grossventres, or Bigbellied Indians who inha-
bit the plains up Maria's river; of which they gave the
following account. On the evening of the 26th Captain
Lewis and his party met with eight of those Indians,
who seemed very friendly and gave them two robes. In
return Captain Lewis gave one of them, who was a chief.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 223

a medal; and they all continued together during the night;
but after break of day the next morning, the Indians
snatched up three of our men's guns and ran off with
them. One Indian had the guns of two men, who pur-
sued and caught him, and one of them killed him with
his knife; and they got back the guns. Another had
Captain Lewis's gun, but immediately gave it up. The
party then went to catch their horses, and found the
Indians driving them off; when Captain Lewis shot one
of them, and gave him a mortal wound; who notwith-
standing returned the fire, but without hurting the Cap-
tain. So our men got all their own horses, but one, and
a number of those belonging to the Indians, as they ran
oft' in confusion and left every thing they had. Our
men then saddled their horses, and made toward the
Missouri as fast as p'ossible; after Captain Lewis had
satisfied himself with respect to the geography of the
countrv up iMaria's river.

We this day took the articles out of the place of depo-
sit, and examined the large red periogue we left here,
and found it too rotten to take down the river. We
therefore took what nails out of it we could, left our
horses on the plains and proceeded down the river.
About the time we started, a heavy gust of rain and hail
accompanied whh thunder and lightning came on and
lasted about an hour, after which we had a cloudy wet
afternoon, and in the evening we encamped about twenty
five miles below the forks.

Tuesday 29. Early in a cloudy morning we com-
menced our voyage from the mouth of Maria's river;
and the current of the Missouri being very swift, we went
down rapidly. At noon we saw some Ibex or Bighorns
at the entrance of a range of high rough hills; and we
halted and killed two of them. Having dined we pro-
ceeded on again, and in our way, during the afternoon,
killed seven more of these mountain sheep. There are
few other animals in this range of high country. In
the evening we encamped opposite the mouth of Slaugh-
ter river, and Captain Lewis had four of those animals
skeletonized, to take with him to the seat of Government

224 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

of the United States. A considerable quantity of rain
fell in the course of the day.

Wednesday 30. We embarked early in a cloudy
morning with some rain. On our way through this liigh
range of mountains, we killed four more of the large
horned animals, two buffalo, two beaver and a bear.

The water of the river is very thick and muddy, on
account of the late falls of rain, which wash those clay
hills very much. We went down the river upwards of
70 miles to day, and encamped on a prairie island. Hea-
vy rain fell at intervals during the day.

Thursday 31. We set out early, though it continued
at intervals to rain hard; about 10 o'clock we saw a great
gano; of elk on a small island, where we halted and in a
short time killed fifteen of them. We took the skms
and the best part of the meat, and proceeded. At noon
we halted to dine, and had then a very heavy shower of
rain. W^e also killed another of the Large horned ani-
mals or mpuntain sheep. We remained here about an
hour, then proceeded on, and will soon be clear of this
range of high rough country. In our way this after-
noon, we killed two mule and twelve other deer, and two
beaver. Though the afternoon was wet and disagreea-
ble, we came 70 miles to day.

Friday, August 1, 1806. We embarked early in a
wet disagreeable morning, and hi a short time saw a large
brown or grizly bear swimming in the river, which we
killed, and took on board; passed the mouth of Muscle
shoal river; and at noon halted to dine at some old
Indian lodges. Captain Lewis being afraid from the
dampness of the weather, that the skins he had procured
of these big-horned animals would spoil, thought it advi-
sable to stay here this afternoon and dry them by a
fire in these old lodges: and some of the men went out
to hunt. About an hour after we landed here, a large
bear came so close to our camp, that one of the men shot
and killed it from our fire. In the evening our hunters
came in and killed several deer. The afternoon was
cloudy with some rain; and having made a fire and put
the skins to dry with two men to attend them, made our
arrangements for the night.

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 225

Saturday 2. This was a fir>e clear morning, and Capt.
Lewis thought it best to stay here to day also and dry
our baggage, as it was becoming damp and wet. Two
hunters were sent on in a canoe to hunt; and in the
course of the day we got every thing dry and ready to
set out the next morning.

Sunday 3. We had a fine morning, and at 6 o'clock
got under way and proceeded on. Having gone 10 miles
we came up with the hunters who had killed 24 deer.
We went on very rapidly and saw great gangs of elk
feeding on the shores, but few buffalo. At sunset we
encamped having gone 73 miles.

Monday 4. This was another pleasant day and we
proceeded on early. One of the small canoes with two
hunters did not come up last night. We left another
small canoe with some hunters behind and proceeded on.
We went very rapidly, and in our way killed a buffalo,
and some deer. At 5 o'clock we passed the mouth of
Milk River, which was very high and the current strong.
Having proceeded 88 miles we encamped for the 'night.

Tuesday 5. Last night was cloudy and thunder was
heard at a distance. About midnight the small canoe
we left yesterday came floating down with the current,
and would have passed us if our sentinel had not hailed it:
the hunters in it killed a bear and two deer. This morn-
ing was also cloudy, and we halted here till noon in
expectation that the other canoe would come down ; but
there was then no appearance of it; and we began to
suspect it had passed in the night. The forenoon had
become clear and pleasant, and at noon we got under
way. As we went on we killed a very fat buffalo and
some deer; and two hunters who went on ahead in the
morning killed two very large brown bears. At sunset
we encamped, and at dark a violent gust of wind and rain
came on with thunder and lightning, which lasted about
an hour; after which we had a fine clear night.

Wednesday 6. We embarked early, and had a fine
morning, but high wind. At 12 o'clock the wind blew
so violent that it became dangerous to go on, and we
halted; and some of the men went out and shot a large

15

226 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

buck, but not dead and he got into the river; when two
of them pursued in a canoe and caught him. Having
remained here three hours, we again went on until night
and encamped. We have yet seen nothing of the two
hunters who had been left behind in the small canoe.

Tliursday 7. The morning was cloudy, and we set
out early, after a very heavy shower of rain, which fell
before daylight. We proceeded on very well, and about
4 o'clock arrived at the mouth of the Yellow Stone River.
We found that Captain Clarke had been encamped on
the point some time ago, and had left it. We discover-
ed nothing to inform us where he was gone, except a
few words written or traced in the sand, which were
" W. C. a few miles further down on the right hand
side.^^ Captain Lewis having left a ^e\y lines for the two
men in the canoe, to inform them, if they are still behind,
where we were gone, we continued our voyage. At
night we encamped after coming above 100 miles; and
though dark killed a fat buffalo at the place of our en-
campment.

Friday 8. We had a fine clear cool mornincp with
some white frost; proceeded on early and in a short time
passed one of Capt. Clarke's camps. At 9 oclock we halted
to repair the periogue, and to dress some skins to make
ourselves clothing. The musketoes are more trouble-
some here than at any other place since we left the falls
of the Missouri. A party of men went out to hunt and
killed some elk and deer; the rest were employed in
dressing deer and cabre skins.

Saturday 9. This was another fine day; and most of
the men were employed as yesterday; and in making
small oars tor our canoes. Two of them went over the
river and killed an elk and a deer.

Sunday 10. We had a fine morning and were em-
ployed in repairing the periogue and dressing skins,
until 3 o'clock in the afternoon, when we got the per-
iogue completed, loaded our craft, and at 4 o'clock pro-
ceeded on to the mouth of White-earth River, and
encamped opposite it on the same bottom, where we
encamped on the 21st of April 1805. In the afternoon

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 227

some drops of rain fell; and the musketoes here were
very bad indeed.

Monday 11. The morning was pleasant; and we
set out early; passed Captain Clarke's encampment of
the 8ih instant, and proceeded on to the burnt bluffs,
where we saw a gang of elk fe;eding. The canoes were
then sent to shore whh a party of men to endeavor to
kill some of them; and we proceeded on whh the per-
iogue. In about a half a mile further we saw another
gang, when we halted and Captain Lewis and one of
the men went out after them. In a short time Captain
Lewis returned wounded and very much alarmed; and
ordered us to our arms, supposing he had been shot at
by some Indians. Having prepared for an attack, I
went out with three men to reconnoitre and examine the
bushes, which are very thick at this place, and could see no
Indians; but after some time met with the man who went
out with Captain Lewis, and found on inquiry that he
had shot him by accident through the hips, and without
knowing it pursued the game. Having made this dis-
covery, we returned to the periogue; examined and
dressed Captain Lewis's wound; and found the ball,
which had lodged in his overalls. The canoes having
come down we proceeded on, after dressing two elk
that had been killed at this place, and passed an encamp-
ment which Captain Clarke had left in the morning.
We found here a note informing us, that the Indians had
stolen all the horses v/hich he had sent with a sergeant
and parly from Yellow Stone Eiver, and that the ser-
geant with the party came down in skin canoes and met
him at this place. We then proceeded on some distance
and encamped.

Tuesday 12. The morning was pleasant, and we
proceeded on. Captain Lewis is in good spirits; but his
wound stiff and sore. Having gone about nine miles
we met with two men on the river trapping and hunting.
Capt. Lewis gave them some ammunition, and directions
with respect to the river above. They informed us that
Captain Clarke and party had passed them yesterday at
noon. We proceeded on and at 10 o'clock overtook
Captain Clarke and his party, all in good health. The

228 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

two men with the small canoe, who had been some time
absent, came down and joined at the place where we met
with the two strangers: and now, (thanks to God) we
are all together again in good health, except Captain
Lewis, and his wound is not dangerous.

After the Cor|)s were separated among the mountains,
as before mentioned. Captain Clarke's party proceeded
on to the Canoe deposit, near the head of the mam branch
of the Missouri (called Jefferson's River) and having
descended with the canoes to the mouth of the branch,
which they called Gallatin, Captain Clarke with 10 men
left those, who were to take down the canoes to the falls;
traveled three days up Gallatin's River towards the south,
when they crossed a ridge and came upon the waters of
the Jaune or Yellow-stone River. Having gone about
100 miles down this river by land they made two canoes,
and Captain Clarke having sent off a sergeant and three
men Avith the horses to the Mandan villages, went down
himself with six other men bv water. On the second
day after the sergeant and his party had started for the
Mandan villages, the Indians stole the whole of the
horses, and the party were obliged to descend the river
in skin canoes. Captain Clarke's party in their route
had found game plenty of different kinds, buffalo, elk,
deer, beaver, otter and some other animals. They also
found the Yellow-stone River a pleasant and navigable
stream, with a rich soil along it; but timber scarce.

We here took the men on board, and left the buffalo
canoes. At night we encamped on a sand beach, as the
musketoes are not so bad there as in the woods.

Wednesday 13. After a stormy night of wind and
rain, we set out early in a fine morning; about 9 o'clock
passed the little Missouri and went on very well during
the whole of the dav. In the eveninsj those in some of
the small canoes, which were ahead, saw Indians, who
fled before they could speak to them. At night we
encamped opposite an old wintering village of the Gross-
ventres, which had been diserted some time ago.

Thursday 14. The morning of this day was pleasant,
and we embarked early. In a short time we arrived
near to our old friends the Grosventres and Mandans;

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 229

and fixed our encampment in a central position, so as to
be most convenient to the different villages. The inhab-
itants of all the villages appear very glad to see us, and
sent us presents of corn, beans and squashes.

Friday 15. We had a fine clear pleasant morning,
and cominued here all day, to ascertain whether any of
the chiefs would go down with us or not. They had to
hold councils among themselves, and we had to wait for
their answers. The two hunters we left up the river
came down, staid with us here, and got one of our party
to join in partnership with them, and to return up the
rivers Missouri and Jaune to hunt.

Saturday 16. This was a fine cool day; and we yet
remained here, waiting an answer from the natives.
Some of these Indians are very kind and obliging; fur-
nishing us with corn, beans and squashes; but there are
others very troublesome, and steal whenever they have
an opportunity. Yesterday and to day, they stole sever-
al knives and spoons; and three powder horns, and tw^o
pouches filled with ammunition.

In the afternoon the chief, called the Big-White, con-
cluded to go down with us, and we agreed to stay until
12 o'clock to-morrow; that he might have an opportunity
to get ready for his voyage and mission. The command-
ing officers gave discharges to the inan who agreed to
return wiih the hunters up the river, and the interpreter;
who intends settling among these Indians, and to whom
they gave the blacksmiths tools; supposing they might
be useful to the nation. They also gave a small piece of
ordnance to the Grossventers, which they appeared very
fond of.

Sunday 17. There was some flying clouds this
morning, and the weather was cold for the season.
The two strange hunters, with the man who had received
his discharge and was to go up the river with them, went
on early. We lashed our small canoes together, two
and two, as we expect they will be more steady this way
and carry larger loads. At noon we dropped down to
the village of the Big- White: and he, his wife and child,
with Geesem the interpreter for the Big-White, his wife

230 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

and two children embarked in two of our canoes to go to
the United States. We proceeded on at 2 o'clock; the
wind was high, and river rough; and in the evenuig we
encamped having descended about 20 miles.

Monday 18. We set out early in a cloudy morning,
and the wind hiiih. At 10 o'clock we killed two deer,
when we halted lor an hour and cooked some venison.
In the evening we encamped, and some of the men went
out and killed five or six more deer.

Tuesday 19. This was a cloudy windy morning;
and the water rough, that our small canoes could not safe-
ly ride the waves: so we remained here and several of
the men went out to hunt. We do not go on so rapidly as
we did higher up the river; but having lashed our canoes
together we go on veVy safe, and can make 60 or 60
miles a day. Captain Lewis is getting much better and
we are all in good spirits. At 3 o'clock in the after-
noon the wind ceased, and we proceeded on, and met
with our hunters on the bank, who had killed six elk and
11 deer. We took the meat on board, proceeded on,
and encamped on a sand-beach.

Wednesday 20. We embarked early after a heavy
gust of wind and rain, and proceeded on very well.
The forenoon was cloudy, without rain; and in the after-
noon the weather became clear and pleasant. We went
about seventy miles, and encamped; where we found the
musketoes very troublesome.

Thursday 21. We proceeded on early and had a fme
morning. At 10 o'clock we arrived at the first village of
the Rickarees, and halted. In our way here we met
three Frenchmen in a canoe; one of them a young man,
who formly belonged to the North West Company of
traders, wished to go with us to the United States; which
our commanding othccrs consented to, and he w^as taken
on board one of our canoes. When we halted and land-
ed at the villages, the natives generally assembled, and
Captain Clarke held a council with them; when they
declared they would live in peace with all nations; but
that their chiefs and warriors would not go to the United
Slates at present, as they had sent one chief already,

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 231

and he had not returned. Thsre are also a great many
of the Chien, or Dog nation encamped hero, in large
handsome leather lodges; and who have come to trade
with the Rickarees for corn and beans, for whicli they
give in exchange buffalo meat and robes. They are a
very silly sujoorstiiious people. Captain Clarke gave one
of their chiefs a medal, which he gave back with a buffalo
robe, and said he was afraid of white people, and did not
like to take any thing from them: but after some per-
suasion he accepted the medal, and we left them.* Here
a Frenchmen joined us to go to St. Louis, who was in the
service of the commanding officars; and we dropped down
to the village on the island, and encamped for the night.

CHAPTER XXV.

Friday 22. This was a cloudy wet morning, after
a night of hard rain, and we stayed at this village to 12
o'clock. The natives used us friendly and with kindness;
gave us corn and beans with other articles; but none of
them would go down with us. At noon we got under
way; and having proceeded twelve miles the weather
became clear, and we halted to dry our bagf^age, which
got very wet last night. At 4 o'clock we again went on,
and had a fine passage till night, when we encamped.

Saturday 23. We set out early in a fine morning,
but the wind was high; and we went on very well till
near noon, when the wind blew so hard that we had to
halt, and were detained about four hours. Three hun-
ters went on ahead by land, and when we had overtaken

* We think that some further proof is necessary to establish the
weakness and superstition of these Indians. Had the chief perse-
vered in the rejection of the medal, we, instead of thinking him
silly and superstitious, would have been inclined to the opinion,
that he was the wisest Indian on the Missouri.

232 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

them they had killed two elk and some deer, and we
halted to lake in ihe meat. Here we had a very heavy
shower of rain, which detained us another hour. We
encamped at night and found the musketoes very trouble-
some.

Sunday 24. We had a fine morning, and went on
very well till noon, when the wind rose and blew so
strong that we were obliged to halt. Having lain by
three hours we again proceeded, but did not go far before
we were oblig:'d on account of the wind, again to stop,
and encamp for ths night.

Monday 25. The morning was again pleasant, and
we proceeded on early, having sent forward two small
canoes with five men to hunt. When we had gone 12
miles, we came to the mouth of the Chien River, where
we halted and staid till noon, for the purpose of taking
an observation. Some of the men went out to hunt, and
while we remained here, killed three small deer. At
half past 12 o'clock we proceeded on again, and in a
short time overtook our canoes with the hunters, that had
gone on ahead, and killed three deer. In the evening
we encamped in a handsome bottom, and a hunter killed
another deer.

Tuesday 26. We set out early, and had a pleasant
morning; passed Teeton River, but saw no signs of the
Teeton band of the Sioux nation. In the evening we
passed Landselle's fort; but found no persons inhabiting
it. At dark we encamped after coming about sixty
miles.

Wednesday 27. We again had a pleasant day and
embarked early: proceeded on till we came to the upper
end of the Great bend, and there stopped to hunt.* As
our hunters saw some game, we in a short time contin-
ued our voyage round the bond ; at the lower end of

* In a former geographical note (pa. 62) we stated that the place
where Mr, Thompson, Astronomer to the North West Company,
took his observation n the year 179:5 to ascertain the latitude and
longitude of the northern bend of the Missouri, was near the
longitude of the Mandan villages. If what Mr. Thompson
called the northern b nd is the same with what Mr. Gass calls
the great bcud (of which there appears little doubt) the longitude

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 233

which we killed an elk. As we were passing an island
we saw a gang of buffalo feeding on it; when we halted
and killed three of them, and encamped on the island
for the night.

Thursday 28. We had another pleasant day; embark-
ed early, and proceeded on till about 11 o'clock, when
we arrived at Pleasant camp, and halted. We left the
camp on the 18th September 1806. The commanding
officers wishing to procure and take down with them the
skeletons of some more deer, and cabre; and knowing
that there were but few of those animals lower down the
river; continued here the remainder of the day, and sent
out six or eight hunters; who returned at night without
finding any of the wished for animals, but killed some
fat buffalo and common deer.

Friday 29. The morning was cloudy and some hun-
ters went on ahead very early; while we amused our-
selves till 10 o'clock gathering plums, of which there is
great abundance at this place. We then went on, and
passed White River on the souih side. The Missouri
here is very full of sand bars and shoals, and we find
difficulty in getting along. About 2. o'clock we halted
to kill some buffalo, but were unsuccessful, and we pro-
ceeded, till evening, and encamped.

Saturday 30. VV^e had a pleasant morning, and went
on early, three hunters starting ahead. We killed some
buffalo and elk in our way, and about 2 o'clock met a
band of the Teetons, fifty or sixty in number, and halted
on the opposite side of the river as we did not wish to
have any intercourse with them. Here we waited for
three hunters, who were behind; and during our stay
eight or nine of the Indians swam to a sand bar about

of the Mandan villages will be between two and three degrees
west of the northern, or great bend; or in about longitude 104
degrees west of London, 29 degrees west of Philadelphia, JH
degrees west of the mouth of the Missouri, and nearly 23 degrees
east of the mouth of the Columbia. This will slill show the great
errors of those maps of Louisiana, which place the Mandan
villages 20 degrees west of the longitude of the confluence of
the M ssouri and Mississippi; and less than 12 degrees east of
that of the mouth of the Columbia.

234 JOURXAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

60 yards from us, and we found that they were the
same rascals, who had given us trouble as we went up.
We could not convjrsii with th^m, but one of our men
understanding the language of the Ponis, of which they
understood some words; we through him let them know
that we wanted nothing to do with them; and that if they
troubled us, we would kill every one of them. They
then withdrew, and the whole party left the river and
went oif to the hills. Our thrje hunters returned, and
we proceeded on, and in the evening encamped on a
sand bar in the river.

Sunday 31. This was a cloudy morning, after a
disagreeable night of wind and hard rain. We set out
early; went on very well all day, and in the evening
encamped, where we found the musketoes very trouble-
some.

Monday September 1, 1806. This was a fine pleas-
ant day and we set out early, and about 10 o'clock met
nine of the Yonktin band of the Sioux nation of Indians
on the south side of the river. We halted and save
them some corn, and then proceeded on with an unfavor-
able wind. At night we arrived at our encampment of
the 31st of August 1804, whore we held a treaty with
a band of the Sioux nation, and encamped for the night.

Tuesday 2. We had a fine morning, but high wind;
set out early, and went on till noon, when we halted, and
some men went out and killed two fine fat buffalo cows;
and brought in the best of the meat. The musketoes
are very troublesome. We a2;ain started and went on
about two miles, when the wind blew so violent that we
had to encamp for the night, on a large sand bar, where
the musketoes are not so bad, as where there are woods
or bushes.

Wednesday 3. In a pleasant morning we got early
under way, and went very well all day. About 5 o'clock
in the afternoon, we met a Air. Aird, a trader, who was
going up the Missouri, and we encamped with him. At
sunsL't a violent gust of wind and rain, with thunder and
lightning came on and lasted two hours.

Thursday 4. This was a cloudy morning. We

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 235

exchanged some corn with Mr. Aird for tobacco, which
our party stood much in need of; and his party having
lost a boat load of provisions on their way up, wanted the
corn. We then proceeded on till we came to our old
camp near the Maha village, wliere we halted to dry our
baggage, which got very wet last night, and remained all
night. The natives are all out in the plains.

Friday 5. This was a fine morning, and we early
embarked, and went on very well, till night, when we
encamped on a sand bar, where the musketoes were very
troublesome.

Saturday 6. We set out early in a fine morning,
saw a number of pelicans, and about 8 o'clock a gang of
elk, when some hunters went out, but returned without
killing any. At 11 o'clock we met a barge belonging to
a Mr. Shotto, of St. Louis, loaded with merchandize,
for the purpose of trading with the Sioux nation of
Indians. We got some spiritous liquors from this party
the first we had tasted since the 4ih of July 1805, and
remained with them about three hours; sent some hun-
ters ahead and proceeded on till 3 o'clock in the after-
noon, when we halted and waited for the hunters at the
place agreed on to meet them, but they did not come
in, and we encamped for the night.

Sunday 7. We had a pleasant morning. The hun-
ters not having come in, we left a canoe, with directions
to wait till 12 o'clock for them; and proceeded on.
About 9 o'clock we met with our hunters, but they had
not killed any thing; and at 11 halted to hunt and wait
for the canoe. In a short time we killed three elk and
brought in the meat; and the canoe having come up,
we proceeded on, and at sunset encamped. The mus-
ketoes are not so troublesome as they were some time
ago.

Monday 8. We again had a pleasant morning; and
proceeded on early; at 10 o'clock we passed council
bluffs where we held the first council with the Ottos on
the 1st, 2, and 3, of August 1804, and in the evening
encamped on a small island, having gone on very well
during the day.

23G JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

Tuesday 9. We embarked early, and in a short
time passed the mouth of the great river Platte; went on
very well all day, and at night encamped on a sand beach
opposite the Bald-pated prairie.

Wednesday 10. We had a pleasant morning, embark-
ed early and went on very well. At 4 o'clock P. M
we met a pcriogue with four men, going to trade with the
Loups or Wolf Indians, who live up the river Platte. We
remained with these men about an hour, got some whisky
from them, and then continued our voyage. In a short
time we met another periogue and seven men, going to
trade with the Mahas, who live on the Missouri. We
staid some time with these men, then proceeded and at
night encamped on a willow island.

Thursday 11. We set out early; and had a cloudy
morning, and light showers of rain during the forenoon.
At two in the afternoon we stopped to hunt, and soon
killed two deer and a turkey; then proceeded on and at
sunset encamped on an island.

Friday 12. The morning was fine and we again
embarked early. In half an hour we met two periogues
going up to trade; staid with them a short time and went
on. About an hour after we met with a Mr. M'Clelland
in a large boat with twelve men going up to trade with
the Mahas. Our Commanding Officers were acquainted
with Mr. M'Clelland, and we halted and remained with
him all day, in order to get some satisfactory information
from him, after our lone absence from the United Slates.
He, and two Frenchmen who were with him had several-
ly instructions from the government to make inquiry
after our party; as they were beginning to be uneasy
about us.

Saturday 13. We had a pleasant morning after some
rain that fell yesterday, and again proceeded on early
with unfavorable wind. At 10 o'clock we halted to hunt,
staid about three hours and killed four deer. We then
continued our voyage to sunset and encamped. We had
a few musketocs, but they were not so bad as we had
found them higher up the river.

Sunday 14. In a fine morning we proceeded on

AS RELATED BY PATRICK GASS. 237

early and went very well, until 3 o'clock when we met
three large baiteaux loaded wiih merchandize, going up
to different nations of Indians for the purpose of trade.
The people in them were very glad to see us, and gave us
some whisky, pork, and biscuit. We remained with
them two hours and again went on. We killed five deer
on the bank to-day as we floated down: and saw a fine
young horse. At sunset we encamped on a small island.

Monday 15. The morning was pleasant and we
embarked early. In a short time we killed a fine large
elk; at 11 o'clock passed the Kenzon river, and encamp-
ed at sunset.

Tuesday 16. This was another pleasant day. We
proceeded on early, and at 9 o'clock met a large periogue
with eight men, going to trade with the Ponis nation of
Indians on the river Platte about seventy or eighty miles
from its mouth. At 11 o'clock we met a baiteaux and
two canoes going up to the Kanowas nation, who live oq
a river of the same name. We halted whh them awhile,
then proceeded on, and at sunset encamped on an island.

Wednesday 17. We went on early and had a plea-
sant day, but very warm. One of party last night
caught a large catfish, supposed to weigh 100 pounds.
We got a great many papaws on our way to day: a kind
of fruit in great abundance on the Missouri from the
river Platte to its mouth; and also down the Mississippi.
About 1 1 o'clock we passed through a bad part of the
river, where it was so filled w^ith sawyers that we could
hardly find room to pass through safe. About two in
the afternoon we met a large keel-boat, commanded by
a Captain M'Clanen, loaded with Merchandize and bound
to the Spanish country by way of the river Platte. He
intended to go by land across the mountain, and get the
Spaniards to bring their gold and silver on this side,
where he could take his goods and trade with them,
had fifteen hands, an interpreter and a black. He
intends to discharge his men on this side of the mountain,
and to get some of the Ponis, who live on the river Platte
to accompany him to the Spanish country. Mr. M'Clan-
en gave all our party as much whisky as they could

238 JOURNAL OF LEWIS AND CLARKE

drink, and a basf of biscuit. Some of the men were sent
on ahead in two small canoes to hunt, and we encamped
hero for the night.

Tlmrsday 18. We gave Mr. M'Clanen a keg of corn;
took our leave of him and proceeded on. In a short time,
passed the mouth of the river Grande, and soon after
overtook the hunters, who had not killed any thing.
We continued our voyage all day without waiting to
hunt; gathering some papaws on the shores, and in the
evening encamped on an island.

The 19th, was a fine day, and at day light we contin-
ued our voyage; passed the mouth of Mine river: Saw
several turkeys on the shores, but did not delay a moment
to hunt; being so anxious to reach St. Louis, where with-
out any important occurrence, we arrived on the 23d
and were received with great kindness and marks of
friendship by the inhabitants, after an absence of two
yearsj four months and ten days.

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