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LIFE    IN    JAVA, 


VOL.  II. 


LIFE  IN  JAVA: 


SKETCHES    OF    THE    JAVANESE. 


WILLIAM  BAlUilNGTON  d'ALMEIDA. 


IN'  TWO  VOM'MKS. 
\<»I.    II 


I.ONDOX  : 

IirKST  AM)   r,LA('Kl<:TT,   ITliLISIlKliS, 

SI;('(;KS,S()I;.S  to   IIKNKV   COlJUiiN, 

1^;.  *;uK,\'r  .M.\iM,i',f)min;ii  siui.Ki', 

isr,.i. 

Th.'  ri.ihi  I.I   Tnnishilinii  ,<  nsirnil. 


LOXDON : 

CUINTED  ]!V  MACDONALD  AND  Tt:G\VELL,J?Li;NirEIM  IIOUSK, 

P.l-ENIIKnvr  STKKKT,  OXFORD  STKEP;T. 


CONTENTS 


THE  SECOND  VOLUME, 


(IIAPTKll  1. 

l-',xcursion  to  (iorcn^'-Garen^ — Toiiil)  of  AH  IJassa — \Vil<t 
I>oiir  limit — (ircat  Ivvjx'ctation.s — Tcinpoi'ary  l)isap])()iiit- 
liiciit  —  How  tlu'y  Hunt  in  Mailiocii — Wlio  ko('])S  the 
Do^s — (iovcnuiieiit  Auction  foi'tlic  Sale  of  Opium  farms 
— A  Cliincm!  Rcjuly  ncckonci- — I.lack  Tij^er — Cruel  S]iort 
—  Arms  of  .Ma'liocn— Yearly  Hunt  .  .  .  ;> 

CHAl'IKH   II. 

Xjiiwie,  its  Situation — We  leave  for  Soerakarta — Deseriji 
ticmofa  TiLTer   'i'ra|i — Curious  'I'ale — Dutcli    Outpost— 
Iliv.T  Snlii — .So<'rakarta^Alijfct  iMcMJe  of  saluting    {'ju-o- 
pians  —  A     I'aii     Alternative     better     than     None  -Kiml 

'      Fri(  ihl,--SiH.rt   Hi.-tnri,-;il    Sketch-- I'resmt  State   of    the 
l'rinei->--'rih'    i*"ort— 'I'lic    'l^jwn     'i'wi'lvi'    ^'ears     a^'o 
(  wM-r.KKxled  Mui'ilrrs--\V;nit   of   St  riuL'-eiit   Laws— Ivvc  ■ 
iMitioii  of  ( 'riminals — (larri,,nn  .'il 


1 38 1 1  '18 


VI  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  III 

Visit  to  the  Kratoii — Foolhardiness — Presence  of  IVIind — 
Timely  succour— Melancholy  Death  of  a  Keeper  from 
Fright — The  Musgit— A  visit  to  the  Susuhunan— Unregal 
Vestibule— Pringitan — Curious  Ceremony— Short  Ac- 
count of  PakoeBewono  VIII.— His  dislike  for  Pomp  and 
State— Xative  Tales  of  Two  Great  Guns— A  Visit  to  the 
Munko-Negoro— Respect  for  Royal  Blood — Tuan  Ratu — 
Slamat  Galan 6.S 

ciiaptp:r  IV. 

Road  to  Djodjokarta— The  Old  Kraton— Change  of  Situa- 
tion every  Century — Ruins  of  Brambanan — Temple  of 
Kalassan — Town  of  iDjokdja — Kind  Reception — Ball  at 
the  Sultan's  Palace — Visit  of  my  Wife  to  the  Seraglio— 
Passar  Gedde — The  Kiaidudo  .Vmboloro  Cooning,  or 
Yellow  Virgins — Mysterious  Slab — Xumerous  Traditions 
— 'I'ale  of  Tyranny — (Tcnerous  Sympathy  of  a  f Javanese 
fiirl— Its  Reward 91 

CHAPTER  V. 

The  Pourworago  Kraton — Palace  f)f  Ardjowinagong — Large 
Seraglio — Anecdotes  of  our  Turtles — A  ^'isit  to  Taman- 
sarie,  or,  Chateau  d'Eau — The  Spring  Tank  of  Siraman — 
Cool  Request — The  Passar — ^lelanclioly  Deatli  of  a  Brave 
Young  English  Officer — Female  Revenge — Curious  Con- 
trivance—Treacherous   I  Ios])itality^Swiss  Conspiracy — 


CONTEXTS.  Vll 

A  Mystcrimis  Foot— An  PLvenino-  ;it  tlu'  'ruinuug-on;^- 
Mertonej^oi'o's — Konuuitic  Scene — AVc  urc  Enti'rt;iiue<l 
;it  I'ukoe  Alain's — War  Dances — Climate  and  Produce  of 
the  Country    .  121 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Leave  for  Mociitillan — 'i'euijik-  of  Mandoot — 'Tradition  of 
Itajali  Slainbe  and  his  'Two  "Wiws — Sinijtle  UridLCe — 
Wonderful  Property  of  Stones  found  in  Snajscs'  Heads — 
X'cnoin  of  a  J'oisonous  Serpent  sucked  out  by  a  (Jaliga — 
Kiiinsof  I)orot>odoo — 'Their  Singula!'  Construction — Alto- 
liclicvos — .Journey  in  'Tuninn^'onu — C(jld  lieee])tion — 
Uather  Slow  Sultslituti'  for  Horses — Legend  of  the  P.uffalo 
—  W'eaiisdine  Joniney — Ai'ii\(H|  at  last  10'.) 

(■ii.\i»Ti:u  Vll. 

I'dwii  of  \\'()nii.«)l)o-- l'',\enrsio!i  to  the  DienLT— Lal<(!  Mcnd- 
jrr — Ilc-ivy  Pain — Shelter — Priniitivi'  T'ire — Valley  of  the 
|)ii-nL( — l.'uiiis  <if  'Tcniplrx— Dangerous  Prs(ir-f  for  a 
.XiLrht's  P^'st — Hut  ."^prin^^'s  likr  I''ountains — llatoin-. 
<'(ildiics.s  iif  its  < 'liiiiati'— .\neient  Poad  or  ('oiidiiit— 
l,al;i'  <if  many  (.'nlmn-s — .Mi 'lane holy  Death  (if  a  ( 'out  ruiiiii' 
-Nru  I'sr  fur  a  I'lankit — 'Thmnlri -Stnriu — .lavaiiese 
Idra  uf  til.'  La>t  |)ay  — Pull-  i.f  thr  Dutch  fi  iretold— 'I'ca 
(,i..|,,wus  L'U'» 


Vlll  COM  TENTS. 

CIIArXER  VIII. 

Leave  for  Bandjarnegara — Hospitable  Native — His  IMuseuni 
— Breakfast  with  tlie  Javanese  Regent — Late  Inunda- 
tions— Arrive  at  Tjilatjaji — Good  ILxrbour — Salt  Depot 
— The  Fort — Stalactite  Grottoes — Adjibareng — Curious 
Mistake — Tagal — C  heribon — Curious  Buildings — Cool 
Sleeping  llooni — Proceed  to  Saniadang — From  thence  to 
Bandoug — Tanko-ben-Prau — Descent  into  one  of  the 
Craters — Javanese  Veneration  for  their  Chiefs— Our 
llees-Wagen       .         .         .         .         .         .         .         235 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Road  to  Tjandjor — View  of  the  Pangarango — Another 
]3ilficulty  with  Horses — Unpleasant  Discovery — Situation 
of  Sinanglaya — Ascent  of  the  Pangarango — (Quinine 
Trees — Variety  of  Orchids — AN'^aterfalls — A  Night  on  tlie 
JVIountain — Gateway  of  Rato  Pajajarran — The  Ghedde — 
The  Doctor's  '•  Etablisnient" — iMegauiundong  IMountain 
— Arrive  at  Buytenzorg — Governor-CJenerars  Palace  and 
( h'oiuids — Feast  of  Sedaka  Buinie — Return  to  Batavia — 
Vsit  to  Raden  Saleh — We  bid  adieu  to  Java  .         .     26J 


CHAPTER  I. 


KXCUHsioN  TO  <;oi;KNi;-(iAi:i;N"(i — tomis  of  ali  isassa — wild 
\',<).\n    iir.NT — (ii;i;at    k.\1'i;(  tatioxs — tkmi'okahv     disai'- 

I'OINTMKNT— IKlW  TIIEY  Ilt'NT  1\  MAIHOKX WHO  KKKl'S  TllK 

\)(i(;s — (.o\'li:.\.mi;nt  aiciiox    for    nii;    sai>k    of    ofum 

FAItMS — A  (TIIXFSF  RFADV  KKCKOXFU — F.LACK  TK.FK — CUIFl. 
,SF0];T — AILMS  ul    MADKjKX VKAKF"i    IILXT. 


VOL.  II. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Being  invited  by  a  Swedish  (Gentleman  to  pass  a 
few  days  at  liis  country  seat,  wo  started  next  dav, 
accompanied  l)y  our  host ;  and  as  I  had  been  pro- 
mised a  <:;ood  day's  sport,  1  made  all  necessary  ])re- 
parations  for  huntini^. 

Leaviiifi;  the  town,  we  crossed  tlie  Madioen  river 
on  a  raft  made  of  bamboo,  and  were  landed  on  the 
oj)j)osite  side  witli  but  little  difiicidty,  thoui^li,  when 
swelled  by  rains,  the  river,  owini^  to  the  strouL' 
currents,  is  (niit(;  imjiassable. 

We  then  drove  thi'<iui;;h  a  flat  countrv,  of  caiu- 
and  rice  j)lantations,  not  aitoLTctlier  uninterestinij — 
the  j)lain,  which,  (otherwise,  would  have  appeared 
almost    interminable,  beiiiir   bi'okeii    bv  the  Lawoe 

I!   2 


4  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

and  Pajitan  mountains.  As  we  neared  Goreng 
Gareng,  our  carriage  passed  between  hedge-rows 
principally  of  the  kelor — a  tree  not  unlike  the 
acacia — the  leaves  of  which  are  a  standing  legu- 
minous  dish  with  the  natives. 

The  house  of  the  Swedish  gentleman,  whose  hos- 
pitality Ave  were  about  to  enjoy,  was  situated  in  a 
wild  neighbourhood — the  only  houses  in  his  vicinity 
beino;  those  of  his  own  workmen.  He  gave  us  a 
heartv  welcome,  and  after  introducing  us  to  his 
family,  showed  us  through  his  sugar  factory, 
a  short  distance  behind  the  house.  As  we  were 
returning  from  inspecting  the  interesting  process 
of  sugar-making,  we  turned  to  look  at  the  view 
behind  us.  The  Lawoe  appeared  but  a  couple  of 
miles  off,  though  in  reality,  we  were  informed, 
it  is  above  twenty.  Below  it  is  a  range  of  low 
hills  called  the  Geryporno,  on  the  summit  of  the 
highest  of  which  are  the  tombs  of  Ali  Bassa  and 
his  family,   who,  from    1825    to    1830,  harassed 


IIUNTIXG  EQUIPMENT.  5 

the  Dutch,  causing  them  much  anxiety  for  their 
safety  in  the  island.  In  one  engagement,  it  is 
stated,  tlie  Dutch  force  was  so  completely  cut  up 
that  only  a  colonel  and  his  drummer  succeeded  in 
making  their  escape,  to  report  the  terrible  issue  of 
the  cncoiniter.  Fortunately,  however,  this  daring 
defender  of  Javanese  liberty  was  at  last  captured, 
and  exiled  either  to  Borneo  or  to  some  small  adja- 
cent island. 

Next  morning  we  went  out  hunting — the  game 
we  had  in  view  being  deer  and  wild  boar,  or  any 
other  wild  animal  we  might  come  across,  not  ex- 
cej)ting  even  th(.'  tiger.  Om*  host,  with  his  rough- 
and-ready  kind  of  field  efpiipment,  gave  me  the 
impression  of  having  been  accustomi'd  to  wild 
sports  In  the  black  forests  of  his  mother  country. 
lie  ean'ied  a  )-ii!e  and  sword,  and  in  his  belt  wore 
a  dirk — a  weapon  with  whieli  he  also  supplied  each 

of  his  gue^ts.      Ml-.  H ,  who  was  constantly  in 

the  habit  of  joining  in  these  jungle  hunts,  (observing 


6  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

me  smiling  at  the  idea  of  our  being  thus  armed 
like  wild  corsairs,  remarked — 

''  It  is  as  well  to  be  well  armed — sometimes  one 
comes  to  a  close  encounter  when  it  is  least  ex- 
pected. I  well  remember  on  one  occasion  it  was 
well-nigh  all  up  with  me ;  I  wounded  a  wild  boar, 
which  immediately  turned  upon  me — a  common 
propensity  with  them  when  not  hurt  in  any  vital 
part — so  I've  been  careful  ever  since."  And  in 
corroboration  of  his  statement,  he  showed  me  a 
large  scar  on  his  leg,  which  had  been  torn  by  the 
tusk  of  the  savage  animal. 

Whilst  we  were  on  the  subject  of  arms,  our  host 
showed  me  a  very  curious  old  sword  which  he  had 
bought  of  some  Javanese  gun-smith  at  Batavia. 
It  was  rather  a  rusty  relic,  but  the  blade  seemed 
still  capable  of  doing  good  service.  On  one  side 
were  cnsraved  these  well-known  words : 

"  Xo  me  saques  sin  razoii, 
Ni  me  embainas  siu  honor." 


CURIOUS  BATS.  7 

Mounting  the  ponies  wliich  were  brought  for  us, 

and  followed  by    several    of   ^Ir.   II 's   men, 

carrying  tombas  or  spears,  and  by  a  pack  of 
village  curs  famous  for  scenting  out  wild  boar,  we 
sallied  forth  in  picturesque  guerilla  style.  Some 
distance  from  the  house  we  had  to  cross  a  stream, 
the  opposite  bank  of  which  wc  had  no  sooner  gal- 
loped up  than  we  beheld  a  most  cui'ious  sight. 

Hanging  from  the  Ijranches  of  two  or  three  large 
trees  growing  close  together,  were  myriads  of  what 
apjieared  to  ujc  long  black  bottles, 

"Th('S(;  are  some  curious  kind  of  fruit,"'  said  I 
to  Mr.  U . 

"  Fi-uit  I"'  replied  he,  "why,  they  are  bats,  or 
dying  foxes,  as  some  ])eople  call  them — you  will 
se<',  wlien  wc  get  nearer,  how  they  will  Ijy  about 
the  tree." 

.And  true  enough  our  near  aj)[)roach  was  the 
slgmd  for  ;i  gi'inral  flight.  Tliest>  cui-i(jus-I(iokini{ 
creatures   are  called  bv  the  Javanese  the    kaluno-; 


8  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

their  zoolo_2;ical  name  is  Fteropus  edulis.  I  had  • 
frequently  seen  this  species  of  bat  before,  ilpng 
in  the  air ;  but  never  in  such  clusters  on  a  tree. 
They  were  hanging  by  a  claw,  with  their  heads 
downwards,  partially  concealed  by  extensive  wings 
of  a  dark  brown  hue,  which,  as  impervious  to  wet 
as  a  piece  of  oil-cloth,  were  folded  round  each  like 
a  cloak. 

As  it  was  our  object  to  get  to  the  woods  before 
the  sun  rose,  we  set  forth  at  a  brisk  rate,  alter- 
nately passing  through  plantations  of  indigo, 
sugar-cane,  and  cotton,  till  we  nearly  reached  our 
huntinii-<jround — a  iunijle  on  one  of  the  Bancha 
hills.  On  approaching  our  destination,  we  heard 
loud  and  repeated  barking.  Looking  in  the  direc- 
tion whence  the  sound  proceeded,  we  saw  to  the 
right  a  large  wild  boar  pursued  by  the  dogs — his 
little  tail  screwed  up  to  a  cus])idated  point,  and  his 
ugly  head  inclining  first  to  the  right  and  then  to 
the  left,  in  order  to  ascertain  the  progress  of  his 


BOAR-nUXTIXG.  9 

pursuers.  It  was  a  most  amusing  sight,  but  des- 
tined to  be  of  short  duration,  for  the  unclean  brute 
suddenly  took  his  tormentors  by  surprise,  by  turn- 
ing suddenly  to  the  right  and  entering  the  jungle, 
where  he  was  soon  lost  to  sight.  A  few  smaller 
ones  started  up  from  f urzy  bushes  and  small  clumps 
of  trees,  but  these  too  soon  proved  they  could  out- 
run the  curs. 

When  we  were  in  the  jungle,  we  dismounted, 
and  left  our  horses  with  the  grooms,  directing  them 
wliere  to  wait  for  us.  Our  host  now  ])osted  us  in 
different  directions,  so  as  to  meet  the  game  as  they 
were  di-Iveii  towards  us  Iiy  the  men.  As,  by  this 
arraiig<'inent,  we  were  each  left  alone,  and  far  from 
oiic  aiiothcr,  I  took  tin-  precaution  to  y)lace  jnvself 
iimiicdialcK-  bcfuiv  a  lai'gc  tree,  to  avoid  any 
chance  of  lieing  siiddenK'  attacke(l  fi-om  beliind— 
for  I  was  coiii|)letelv  liemiiieil  in  b\'  trees,  which, 
like  a  (au'tain,  hid  frDnuuv  view  e\ervtliiiig  bevond 
their  narrow  Hniits. 


10  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

I  had  not  long  waited  in  this  position,  before  the 
sound  of  sometbing  approaching  called  my  atten- 
tion, and  warned  me  to  be  ready.  Crash,  crash 
went  the  dried  and  withered  leaves  under  the 
stealthy  tread  of  some  animal.  "  Now  for  a  tiger," 
thought  I,  determined  to  be  prepared  for  the  worst ; 
but  no — out  rushed  a  fierce  boar,  his  back  bristling 
with  rage,  and  his  tusks  ready  to  tear  whatever 
came  within  his  reach.  "Now  I  have  him!" 
thought  I ;  and  with  the  delight  of  a  sportsman, 
but  with  rather  too  much  of  the  excitement  common 
to  novices  in  jungle  sport,  I  fired,  striking  the 
animal  in  the  hind  cjuai'ter,  and  making  him  stagger 
under  my  shot.  Then  drawing  my  dagger,  I  stood 
ready  to  defend  myself,  expecting  that  the  ferocious 
animal  would  rush  headlong  upon  me.  As  I  was 
left  unassailed,  I  concluded  that  he  was  sagacious 
enough  to  consider  "  discretion  as  the  better  part  of 
valour,"  for  when  the  smoke  cleared  away,  he 
Avas  gone  !     I  walked  to  the  spot,  and  found  a 


CArTURE  OF  YOUNG  BOARS.        11 

pool  of  blood,  by  drops  of  which  I  traced  a  zlf^-zag 
track  for  a  short  distance. 

Disappointed,  but  far  from  despairing,  I  reloaded, 
took  lip  my  station  once  more  ao-ainst  the  tree,  and 
again  waited  my  cliance.  No  sooner  was  I  thus 
prepared  than  the  leaves  crackled  once  more,  but 
this  time  under  a  lighter  tread ;  then  there  was  a 
whirl  and  a  whiz  in  the  air,  a  scattering  of  leaves 
ai'ound,  and  a  sjjlendid  })eacock  ascended  between 
tiic  network  of  liranches  ;  in  a  second  my  gun  was 
off,  alas,  to  my  great  anncjyance,  with  as  little  good 
f(;rtune  as  before. 

Tlie  oidy  subse(pu;nt  disturbers  of  my  solitude 
were  some  young  boars,  which,  litlh;  dexterity 
being  reipiired  in  tlieir  pursuit,  J  captured  without 
(litlicuhy. 

For  an  hour  or  two  J  heartl  loud  hai-king,  and 
knowing  thi!  dogs  to  he  near,  I  ([uitli'd  my  j)ost  in 
order  to  see  wh;it  was  going  on.  .\s  1  ap])roached 
I  heard  the  voices  of   tiie   men   crying,   "  Alahiyu  I 


12  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

malayu  !" — "  Quick  !  quick  !" — and  when  I  came 
in  sight  they  were  pointing  their  tombas  towards 
the  jungle,  to  which  a  boar,  after  he  had  been 
hunted  by  the  dogs  for  some  time,  was  fast  beating 
his  retreat. 

But  why  weary  the  reader  Avith  a  further  de- 
scription of  a  kind  of  sport  the  full  excitement  and 
delight  of  which  none  but  those  who  have  joined 
in  it  can  imagine  ?  Suffice  it  to  say,  we  did  not 
return  till  evening,  when  we  were  qiiite  done  up 
with  the  heat  and  fati";ue  of  the  dav,  and  brought 
home  enougli  spoil  to  repay  us  for  our  exertions. 

Wild  boars  are  numerous  in  this  as  in  all  cane 
districts ;  and  Avhilst  the  canes  are  ripening  they 
are  very  destructive  and  troublesome.  At  that 
season  the  labourers  and  villagers  assemble  on 
appointed  days  for  a  battue.  Dogs  are  sent  into  the 
different  plantations,  and  the  men  station  tlicm- 
selves  outside  in  groups  of  from  four  to  six,  armed 
generally  with  the  tomba,  Avith  whicli  they  strike 


SALE  OF  OriUM  LICENCES.  13 

down  their  game — a  few,  however,  carrying 
fowhng-[)ieces,  a  weapon  wliieh  a  nati\"e  is  always 
proud  to  number  among  his  possessions.  I  was 
told' by  our  host  that  as  many  as  twenty  and  thirty 
are  killed  on  these  occasions  in  one  morning  ;  and 
as  few,  if  any,  of  the  Javanese  will  eat  pork,  the 
carcasses  arc  thrown  away,  or  cooked  for  the  dogs. 
The  villagers,  who  keep  and  rear  these  dogs,  re- 
ceive as  an  encouragement,  in  addition  to  two 
guntangs  (a  uative  measure)  of  rice,  five  rupees  a 
mouth  dui'iug  the  si;as(jn. 

During  our  stay  at  Madioen,  the  gentleman  with 
wlujm  we  were  residing  to(jk  me  to  see  the  sale  of 
licences  f(n'  the  disjiosal  of  ojdum. 

This  is  an  aniuial  auction,  held  in  all  the  IJe- 
gc'iK'ics  and  lu'^iclcncles  oi  .Ia\a.  At  a  fixed 
period  of  the  year  cei'tain  towns  arc  named  by 
Government  as  tlic  localities  on  which  the  j)i"ivilege 
of  selling  o])ium  has  be'cn  confcri'eil.  Tin's  jtri- 
vilege    they    enjoy    exclusively    for   a    whole   yeai", 


14  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

after  which  a  selection  of  fresh  places  for  the 
following  year  is  made. 

The  Government,  though  deriving  a  considerable 
revenue  from  the  sale  of  this  deleterious  commodity, 
is  nevertheless  endeavouring,  in  consequence  of  its 
pernicious  effects  on  the  Javanese,  to  lessen  the 
quantity  usually  supplied  for  sale  on  these  occa- 
sions ;  and  in  order  to  limit  the  number  of  persons 
applying  for  licences,  the  prices  of  these  have  been 
raised  to  a  sum  far  beyond  the  means  of  any  but 
the  wealthiest  Chinese  merchants. 

The  object  of  Government  in  changing  the 
localities  selected  for  the  temporary  depots  of 
opium  is  to  throw  an  additional  obstacle  in  the  way 
of  such  smokers  and  consumers  of  the  drug  as  are 
anxious  to  renew  their  stock  of  it.  As  the  towns 
or  villages  selected  this  year  may  be  twenty  or 
thirty  miles  distant  from  those  named  for  the  next, 
it  is  evident  that  the  pooi'er  native  can  ill  afford  to 
ride  that  distance  very  often,  and  the  small  quan- 


THE  AUCTION.  15 

tity  he  had  previously  purchased  lasting  him  only 
a  very  short  time,  he  is  compelled  to  do  without  it. 
Vendors  are  bound  by  a  strict  regulation  not  to 
sell  above  a  given  measure  Avhen  it  has  to  be 
taken  beyond  the  precincts  of  their  shops,  an 
aiTangement  which  I  feel  assured  has  broken 
many  a  native  off  this  pernicious  habit.  It  would 
be  highly  interesting,  as  this  is  undoubtedly  the 
case,  were  the  Dutch  t6  collect  materials  for  a 
statistical  account,  the  pul)lication  of  which  might 
enable  us  to  com})arc  the  c()nsumj)tion  of  one  year 
with  that  of  anotlier.  Tlie  cultivation  of  opium, 
I  was  told,  is  strictly  ])rohibited  throughout  the 
island,  and  tlii'  (iovcrnment  consequently  purchase 
it  in  Iiidi.i  and  Turkey,  two-thirds  being  imported 
from  the  former,  an(l  one-third  from  the  latter 
country. 

The  auction,  the  great  business  of  the  day, 
was  held  at  tlu'  Ivegent's  house,  which  is  situated 
opposite     the     canqiong    cheena     and    the     Pono- 


16  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

rogo  road.  We  were  received,  on  alighting 
from  our  carriage,  by  the  Regent,  a  mere 
youth,  and  his  uncle  the  Tumungong  addy  patti, 
the  acting  Regent  during  the  minority  of  his 
nephew.  Several  Chinese  were  seated  on  the 
straw  matting  which  was  extended  over  the  stone 
floor  of  a  lar<ze  covered  verandah  in  which  the 
auction  was  to  be  held,  and  which  formed  a  sort  of 
entrance  hall  to  the  house.  Others  stood  listlessly 
about,  fanning  themselves  the  whole  time — their 
pates  clean  shaven,  except  a  portion  at  the  back  of 
the  head,  the  hair  of  which  hung  in  long  neat 
plaits  nearly  to  their  heels.  All  wore  spotless 
white  grass  cloth  bajus,  and  dark  blue  baggy 
trousers,  the  captains  and  lieutenants  of  each  cam- 
pong  being  easily  distinguishable  from  the  rest  by 
their  grey  flowered  silk  robes  reaching  to  the  calves 
of  their  legs,  and  by  their  small  skull  caps  with  a 
red  mandarin  knob  on  the  summit  of  each.  Shortly 
after  our  arrival,    a  carriage  drove  up,  bringing 


PKOCEEDINGS  OF  THE  DAY.  17 

the  two  assistant  Residents  of  Xgawie  and  Puno- 
rofijo.  ^Vfter  kirscli-wassor  had  Ijeen  handed 
round  in  small  glasses,  the  secretary,  as  represent- 
ing the  liesident,  who  was  still  an  invalid,  took 
his  seat  near  the  middle  of  the  upper  end  of  the 
tahle,  the  two  assistant  liesidents  ])lacing  them- 
selves on  each  side  of  him.  Oj)posite  the  secretary 
sat  the  accountant,  already  busy  with  his  pen. 
The  Kegent  and  Tunnuigong  sat  on  the  right,  and 
gentlemen  (jf  the  disti'ict  on  the  left,  together  with 
the  cai>ifiiii  cheeiKi  of  the  town,  an  octogenarian, 
and  the  Chiiiesc  cajitain  of  I'ouoi'ogo,  Not  one 
. Javanese  merchant  was  pn  sent ;  the  n.'ason,  I 
suppose,  Ijcing  that,  as  the\'  ai'e  seldom  so  wealthy 
;l^  thi'  indefatigalile  ("hluameu,  the  ])rices  of  the 
licence  Were  altogether  hevond  their  ri'ach.  JJehind 
the  act'duntaiit  stood  the  auctioneer,  hanuner  iu 
hand,  I'eadv  f<ir  action. 

The  pruceediugs  ot  the  day  wvw  opened  bv  a 
short    speecli    deliNcred    by  the  .^eciX'tarv.  in   which 

VOL.   II.  C 


18  LIFE  IX  JAVA. 

lie  gave  a  cursory  sketch  of  what  was  contained 
in  the  more  formal  statement  to  be  read  by  the 
accountant  from  an  official  paper.  When  the 
last  named  official  rose,  after  bowing  to  all  pre- 
sent, he  read  out  the  names  of  the  towns  and 
villages  in  the  residency  of  Madioen  where  opium 
was  to  be  sold  that  year,  adding,  as  a  precautionary 
warning,  that  all  who  infringed  the  rules  published 
by  Government,  either  by  the  sale  of  opium,  or 
by  smuggling  it  into  the  island,  would  be  severely 
punished. 

On  the  termination  of  this  preliminary  proceed- 
ing, he  beckoned  one  of  the  attendant  lookerson 
to  come  forward,  and  directed  him  to  put  his  hand 
into  a  bowl  which  was  jilaced  upon  the  table,  and 
covered  with  a  white  napkin.  From  this  bowl, 
containing  slips  of  paper  with  the  names  of 
the  ])rivileged  towns  upon  them,  this  individual 
drew  a  paper  on  which  was  written  the  name 
"  Ngawie,"   which  he    read  out  in   a  loud   voice. 


THE  BIDDING.  19 

Tlie  announcement  of  tlie  name  caused  no  little 
excitement  amonn;  the  merchants,  some  of  whom 
struck  their  thighs  with  tlie  palms  of  their  hands, 
while  others  heat  their  foreheads,  accompanying 
the  action  with  a  loud  exclamation,  apparently  ex- 
pressive of  disappointment. 

When  the  noise  and  l)ustle  had  suhsided,  the 
auctioneer  rose  and  said,  that,  in  the  name  of  the 
Government,  the  ]tesident  of  Madioen  acknow- 
ledged Ngawie  to  be  the  ])riiicipal  and  largest 
oj)iuin  farm  in  the  pntvince,  in  c()iise(|uence  of 
whicli  pi'ivilege  the  value  of  its  licence  was  ten 
ihousiiiid  floi'ius  (ahfiut  £>>',')•)  (In.  .S(/.)  a  mouth. 

"Now,"'  he  ad(hMl,  '•  capitans,  we  are  waiting  for 
\"()ur  liid." 

'I'lic  (ir;iiig  ch('(,>n;i,  howcxcr,  (•<iusidcring  the 
price  named  \('rv  high,  ;iske(l  whetlur  tlie  (iovern- 
iiient  eoidd  not  he  imhieed  to  lo\wi"  it.  'Vlic  rejiK' 
was  a  deeide(l  jiegative.  A  hdl  ensut'd,  ominous, 
as  some  thouglit,  of   a  dull   market. 

('  2 


20  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

The  Chinese,  meanwhile,  were  not  unoccupied. 
Some  apparently  absorbed  in  mental  calculation, 
or  lost  in  thought,  were  biting  the  ends  of  their 
fans  in  an  evidently  disturbed  state  of  mind ; 
others  were  talking  together  in  low  tones ;  and 
a  few  were  consulting  the  "  ready  reckoner"  by 
which  the  Chinamen  assist  themselves  in  making 
their  calculations.  This  machine  consists  of  an 
oblong  frame  of  wood,  divided  lengthwise  into 
two  unequal  compartments,  with  parallel  wires 
fixed  across,  leaving  equal  spaces  between  each. 
On  these  wires  are  arranged  balls,  which  can  be 
shifted  up  and  down,  two  being  in  each  small  divi- 
sion, and  five  in  the  larger  one. 

The  auctioneer,  in  the  meantime,  was  not  idle. 
Three  times  he  offered  up  the  licence  for  the  opium 
farm  at  Ngawie,  and  I  suppose,  if  no  one  had  bid 
above  the  price  fixed,  it  would  have  been  farmed 
bv    Government;   but    at  the   words   "third   and 


THE  FINAL  OFFER.  21 

last  time,"  the  merchants  seemed  suddenly  startled 
into  action. 

"  Eleven  thousand  I"  cried  out  the  capitan  with 
tlie  hoary  tail. 

"Twelve  thousand  I"  said  the  energetic  captain 
of  tlie  Chinese  at  Ponoroffo. 

And  tluis,  step  Ijy  step,  they  raised  their  bids, 
initil  no  less  a  svun  than  fifteen  thousand  was 
finally  offered. 

"  S;;tu  kali,  dua  kali!"  cried  the  auctioneer; 
words  e(juivah'iit  to  our  ''once,  twice."  "  Ti — 
ti — ''  he  added,  as  he  was  about  to  prononnce  tlie 
final  ''thi'ici'"  ;  wln-reujjon  a  fresh  iHo\enient  was 
observed  nniongst  the  colleagnes  of  the  old 
Madioen  captain,  as  if  tliev  were  urging  him  to 
keep  u[)  the  conti'st  he  had  conuiienced  and  carried 
on  so  well.  Hut  the  cautious  old  man  shook  his 
head,  siL''nit  \iiig  tlmt  it  w;is  all  over  for  him  ;  and 
the  tiga  kali  being  j)i'onounced,  the  licence  was 
assiirned   to  him  who  ha<l  bid  the  fifteen  thousau'l. 


22  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

The  purchaser  was  next  desired  to  sign  his  name 
to  a  document,  in  which  he  faithfully  promised  to 
pay  the  Government  one  hundred  and  eighty  thou- 
sand rupees,  or  florins,  in  the  ensuing  year,  by 
monthly  instalments  of  fifteen  thousand.  The 
signatures  of  his  two  securities  followed  that  of  the 
purchaser.  The  same  process  was  gone  through 
with  the  licences  assigned  to  other  places,  prices 
lessening  as  the  localities  declined  in  importance. 

I  was  informed,  on  good  authority,  that  the 
Government  on  that  day  made  as  much  as  a  million 
of  rupees. 

.On  our  way  back  we  stopped  to  see  a  couple  of 
fine  tigers  in  two  separate  cages  or  inclosures  made 
of  palisades  fixed  close  together.  One  of  these 
formidable  animals  was  what  they  call  the 
machan  itain,  or  black  tiger,  which  has  a  very 
dark,  silky  coat,  the  black  streaks  of  which  are 
less  distinct  than  those  of  the  common  kind.  Both 
of  these  ^^  ild  beasts  had  been  entrapped  in  one  of 


DANGEROUS  SrORT.  23 

the  neighbouring  forests,  and,  with  the  wild  buf- 
falo, were  to  form  the  ehief  amusement  at  the 
coming  election  of  his  Excellency  the  young 
Regent,  to  whom  we  had  been  introduced  at  the 
auction.  The  natives  are  very  fond  of  the  sports 
in  which  these  dangerous  animals  are  introduced, 
and  it  is  the  custom  of  the  chiefs  to  preserve  tigers, 
&c.,  for  occasions  of  rejoicing.  As  their  festa 
hasars  (great  feasts)  are  more  frequently  held  on 
the  iustallatiou  of  a  new  IJegent  than  on  any 
other  ocea>i(iii,  I  will  attempt  to  describe  the  cere- 
monies by  which  an  event  so  important  to  the  na- 
tives is  solemnised.  ()u  the  day  a])poiiite(l,  ])lat- 
forms,  erected  on  tlie  alnini  aloirn^  art'  covered 
with  matting,  biuitiiig,  and  calicoes  of  various 
colours.  'I'lh'se  ai'e  for  the  liesident  and  his  suite, 
and  to!'  till'  iii'giiit  with  his  friends  and  followers. 
Multitudi'S  ot  natix'es,  crowding  the  (i/mni  tilmrn^ 
listen  to  the  <onnd  of  the  gamalan,  and  of  many 
other  stringed  instruments. 


24  LIFE  IX  JAVA. 

The  Resident,  at  a  certain  stage  of  the  proceed- 
ings, rises  up,  an  example  in  which  he  is  followed 
l)y  all  present.  A  few  speeches  are  made,  and  the 
nmbrella  of  dignity  is  handed  to  the  new  Eegent, 
an  act  which  is  followed  by  loud  cheers,  waving  of 
hands,  tudongs  (a  kind  of  hat),  and  handkerchiefs, 
to  testify  the  people's  approbation  of  the  new  election. 
The  son  almost  invariably  succeeds  his  father  in 
this  office,  as  in  the  case  of  the  young  Regent  of 
Madioen,  who,  at  the  demise  of  his  parent,  was  too 
young  to  act. 

This  peaceful  scene  is  followed  by  some  Olympian 
games,  and  by  deadly  combats  between  wild  ani- 
mals. The  tiger  and  the  wild  buffalo,  or  the  tiger 
and  the  wild  boar,  ar(;  thus  matched  against  each 
other;  and  contests  even  between  snakes  and 
herons,  or  cranes,  &c.,  afford  the  natives  no  small 
excitement  and  delight  on  such  festive  occasions. 

As  no  circus  or  arena  of  any  kind  is  erected  for 
the  fetes,  se^'eral  men,  armed  with  long  spears, 


TIGER  AND  BUFFALO  FIGHTS.  25 

form  a  ring  consistino;  of  a  vast  concourse  of  eager 
spectators.  The  figlit  between  tlie  tiger  and  the 
buffalo  is  always  considered  the  sensational  scene 
of  the  dny.  The  portable  cage  into  which  the 
tiger  has  ])een  driven  is  placed  in  the  centre  of  the 
ring,  and  that  of  his  adversary  exactly  opposite,  a 
few  paces  apart.  When  the  doors  are  opened,  the 
tiger,  if  he  has  lost  heart  In'  his  long  confinement, 
will  immediately  make  a  rush  towards  the  circle  of 
spectators,  seeking  for  a  gap  through  which  he  may 
make  his  escape — a  vain  attempt,  for  so  formidable 
is  the  zone  by  wliich  he  is  siu'rounded,  and  so 
threatening  an;  the  glittering  spear  heads,  that, 
with  his  tail  between  his  liind  legs,  lu;  not  uufre- 
cpiently  rcti'cats  to  his  artificial  cover,  out  of  which 
he  nnist  again  be  driven  in  order  to  make  him 
come  to  tlie  scrntch.  If,  as  is  gend'allv  tlu;  case, 
lie  at  last  tuiMis  in  desperation  from  the  pointed 
barrier  of  speai's,  and  encountei's  tlie  l)uff;do,  in- 
furiated  by    pain   inflicted   by  tlie   points   of     the 


26  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

same  weapons,  the  king  of  the  jungle  raises  his 
head,  waves  his  tail  from  side  to  side  like  a  cat 
ready  to  pounce  on  its  prey,  and  looks  at  his  ad- 
versary as  though  the  glare  of  his  fierce  eyes  we^e 
sufficient  to  inspire  awe  and  dread. 

The  avidience  at  this  crisis  becomes  breathless 
with  excitement.  From  the  Kegent  himself,  to  the 
little  boy  who  gazes  at  the  scene  seated  on  his 
father's  shoulder,  all  are  fascinated  by  the  same 
dread  spectacle,  and  an  ominous  silence  prevails. 
The  defiant  roar  of  the  tiger  is  responded  to  by  the 
deep  bellowing  of  the  buffalo,  which  shakes  the 
surrounding  ground.  The  tiger,  after  stealthily 
advancing,  stops  to  watch  the  movements  of  his 
foe  ;  the  buffalo,  threatening  his  adversary  with  his 
formidable  horns,  stands  ready  to  toss  him  in  the 
air.  But  the  cunning  animal,  by  a  kind  of  instinct, 
seems  to  understand  the  danger  to  which  he  is  ex- 
posed, and  crouching  down,  as  though  for  a  leap, 
while  his  enemy  rushes  forward  to  fling  him  up,  he 


THE  ARMS  OF  MADIOEX.  27 

leaps  over  liis  liead,  and  with  tlie  speed  of  lightning 
saddles  himself  all  fours  on  his  back.  Beyond  the 
reach  of  danger  from  his  opponent's  horns,  he  now 
plants  his  teeth  into  the  skin  of  the  unfortunate 
buffalo,  whose  groans  of  rage  and  anguish  are  dis- 
tinctly heard  amid  the  loud  shouts  of  the  people. 
Should  tlie  tiger  not  succeed  in  taking  his  leap  at 
the  right  momejit,  the  buffalo  throws  him  up  into 
the  air  like  a  ball,  and  as  he  falls,  stands  prepared 
to  goad  him  to  death.  Jf  the  tiger  should  come  off 
vict(jrious  in  tlie  contest,  he  is  carefully  kept  and 
tended,  to  disj)l;iy  liis  ])r()\vess  in  another  gala. 

The  anus  of  Madlfjeii  is  a  black  l)nllwith  a  large; 
hump  abo\(!  liis  neck,  ''  couchant '"  on  the  to])  of  a 
S([iiare  |)illar  phiced  at  the  jiuictiou  of  four  roads. 
If  1  mi^tnkc  iKit,  Maiiiiieii  in  the  \-eniacular  signi- 
fies a  uild  bull,  (ir  buffalo,  an  animal  which  is  vet'\' 
numerous  in  a  wild  >tate  thi'oughout  the  j)ro\in(x', 
when  ver  there  is  a  thick  jungle  or  forest. 

There  is  generally  a  hunt  e\erv  year,  conducted 


28  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

by  the  Rogent  himself,  accompaniefl  not  unfre- 
quently  by  the  Resident  and  other  officials.  On 
such  occasions,  a  curious  plan  is  adopted,  but  little 
I  fancy  in  accordance  Avith  the  taste  of  our  sports- 
men in  India.  The  sportsmen  are  perched  up  in 
little  huts,  secured  to  the  upper  part  of  the  trunk 
of  some  large  tree,  where  they  wait  in  readiness  to 
pull  the.  trigger  on  the  appearance  of  any  bird 
or  beast,  frightened  to  the  spot  by  a  large 
number  of  the  Regent's  men,  who  surround  the 
forest,  and,  by  their  loud  shouts,  yells  and  cries, 
startle  the  animals  from  their  lairs,  compelling  them 
to  run,  in  a  state  of  excitement  and  distraction,  into 
the  very  teeth  of  danger. 


CHAPTER  II. 


N(.A\vii:,  ITS  sniATiox — \vi;  lkavk  fuij  .soei:akai;ta — di;- 
sri:ii'THix  ()¥  A  TiiiKi:  tkaf— criuois  tale — orTCii  out- 
I'csT — i:i\i;i:  sni.o — s(ii;i:akai;ta — aiuk.ct  mode  of  salut- 
iN'ii  i.i"i;i)ri;A.\s — a  i'.ad  aetkknative  hettku  than  none 

— KIND      IIMIADS — SlIilKT      II  ISTOIItCAE      SKETCH — riM'.SENT 

STATE     or      THE     riMNCKS THE     lOUT— THE    TOWN    TWELVE 

YEAl;S  Ai;o — COLK-IIEOODKI)  .MIKOEliS — WANT  OE  SrUINi.ENr 
LAWS — i:XECI    riON  OF  CEIMINAI.S THE  (JAUIMSON. 


31 


CHAPTER  11. 

Mi;.  A' ,  the   secretary,    our  liost  in  Matlioen, 

most  kindly  pressed  us  to  stay  witli  him  as  h)ng  as 
we  could;  but,  as  we  were  anxious  to  be  once  more 
('//  ?Yy?//<',  we  were  unable  to  avail  ourselves  of  his 
generous  hdspitalitv  beyond  a  few  days.  Accord- 
ingly, having;  taken  leave  of  our  friend  in  need,  the 
worthy  schoi)lmaster,  we  l)ade  adieu  with  some  re- 
gret til  our  lnjst,  and  left  about  six  in  the  evening 
of  a  wi't,  i^loomv  dav,  foi"  the  small  town  with  the 
na-al->oundin^  name  of  Xaawie,  wliei'e  we  arrived 
vcvv  late.  Sonic  minutes  clajisrd  before  the  landl(M"d 
of  ihe  oidy  loueiiieiit  the  [ilace  affordiMl  uiade  his 
a])])e;ii-,iiice,  ill  aiiswer  to  the  summons  of  Drahman  ; 
but  wlu'ii  he  did  come,  and  was  made  to  understand 
our  wants,  he   (|uickly  shook   off  tin;  effects  of  his 


32  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

first  short  nap,  and  set  to  work  briskly  to  supply  us 
with  all  the  comforts  he  Avas  able  to  provide. 

The  country  about  Ngawie  is  charming,  though 
wild  in  aspect,  the  Pundun  chain  forming  a  back- 
ground to  the  town.  There  are  no  sights  to  be 
seen  ;  but  to  a  sportsman  the  adjacent  woods  must 
prove  most  desirable,  especially  for  hunting  tigers, 
which  are  so  numerous  that  they  are  often  seen  by 
travellers  lapping  the  water  out  of  the  ditches  that 
flank  the  road. 

The  next  morning  we  passed  the  extensive  aloicn 
(down  before  the  Regent's  house,  on  our  way  to 
Soerakarta.  Further  on  \\q  perceived  the  formid- 
able-looking fort  called  "Fort  General  van  den 
Bosch,"  which  defends  the  frontier  of  Madioen  at 
the  junction  of  the  two  rivers  Solo  and  Madioen. 
Once  fairly  beyond  the  town,  we  saw  before  us 
sombre  dense  forests  of  teak,  through  which  our 
road  lay.  We  were  told  before  starting  that  tigers 
frequently  cross  the  road  in  broad  daylight,  cither 


TIGER  TRAPS.  33 

in  cliase  of  deer,  or  in  order  to  gain  the  other  side 
of  the  forest ;  but  we  did  not  see  one,  only  wild 
deer  of  very  large  size,  and  innumerable  traps  foi" 
tigers — some  close  to  the  road.  One  of  these, 
which  had  only  just  been  erected,  we  stopped  to 
inspect.  A  tethered  goat  had  been  killed,  and 
partially  eaten,  the  remainder  of  its  carcase  being 
left  as  bait  ;  for  it  is  a  known  fact  that  the  tiger 
will  always  return  again,  when  hungry,  to  the  meal 
he  has  left  unllnished.  The  trap  was  a  very  simple 
contri\anct',  but  answei'ed  the  purpose  remarkably 
well,  ])erha])S  better  than  nuiny  more  elaborate  and 
ex[)enslve  ones. 

The  gi'ound  chosi'U  is  hollowed  out  to  ten  or 
fifteen  feet  in  length,  and  about  a  yanl  wide.  On 
the  two  sides  ai'c  posts  firmly  ])lant('(l  close  to  cacli 
(jtlier,  till'  roof,  which  is  couvcx-slinpeil,  cunsist- 
inir  of  jiolts  tied  like  those  of  a  raft.  At  one  em! 
is  an  opening,  at  the  other  a  cage,  almost  iiiijier- 
\i()us  to  light,  in  wliicli  a  kid  oi"  bleating  lamb 
V(JL.   JI.  I) 


34  LIFE  IN  JAVA.. 

is  confined  for  the  night.  The  opening  or  entrance 
shuts  with  a  heavy  shding  door,  attached  by  a  rope 
to  the  end  of  a  ponderous  beam.  This  beam  rests 
on  the  top  of  a  pole,  and  its  op]:)Osite  end  is  kept 
down  by  a  large  stone  connected  with  a  spring 
in  the  interior  of  the  trap,  which  is  no  sooner 
touched,  than  the  weight  flies  up,  causing  the  door 
to  fall  and  debar  the  exit  of  the  intruder.  If  the 
tiger  is  not  recpiired  by  the  Regent  for  galas  or 
festas,  a  few  poles  are  taken  away  from  the  roof,  and 
the  poor  brute  is  umnercif  ully  assailed  with  spears, 
swoixls,  &c.  This  steeping  of  the  steel's  point  in 
the  hot  blood  of  their  victim  is  considered  by  the 
natives  as  a  potent  charm  to  insure  a  deadly  thrust 
with  their  weapons,  or  to  parry  that  of  an  adver- 
sary. The  mangled  carcase  is  then  placed  on 
all -fours  upon  a  frame,  and  taken  to  the  Kesident 
of  the  district,  Avho  rewards  the  men  with  a  small 
•  lonation;  after  which  it  is  sold  to  the  Chinamen, 
who  give  from  ten  cents  to  one  dollar  for  a  pound 


VENERATION  FOR  TIGERS.  35 

of  timer's  flesh,  believino;  that  more  than  ordi- 
nary  strengtli  is  gained  by  eating  this  unnatural 
food. 

Men  wlio  liave  tlie  reputation  of  being  expert  in 
tiger-traj)ping,  are  supposed  by  the  natives  to  pos- 
sess some  partieidar  charm,  inlierited  from  their 
parents,  or  given  to  tliem  for  a  special  purpose  in 
this  world. 

A  curious  story  conceniiiig  these  animals — 
proving  the  peruliai'  veneration  in  which  tliev  are 
held  by  the  natives — was  related  to  us  l)y  a  gentle- 
]nan  as  a  fact.  A  friend  of  his,  he  said,  having 
l)oiight  a  large  tract  of  f(»rest  land,  had  a  small  at- 
tap  hut  built  in  the  middle  of  it  for  himself  and 
the  men  wlioin  he  li;id  hired  to  fell  the  trees. 
Tliev  had  nut  been  settled  man\'  da\s  in  their  tein- 
porarv  abode,  wlieu  one  niiiht,  as  the  1  )uteh  i^cntle- 
man  was  i\iiig  Mwake,  but  with  closed  ex-c^,  he  b'lt 
a  wai'in  breath  on  his  face,  aceoiiuiaiiii'd  I)\'  a  kind 
of  snitHnii;  soutxi.      Fearing  It.  wms  -onie  reptile,  lu' 

1)  2 


36  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

dared  not  move  or  breathe,  but,  by  a  terrible  effort, 
kept  himself  perfectly  still,  until  the  sound  of 
steps  retreating  from  his  bedside  convinced  him 
that  his  surmise  was  incorrect.  Opening  his  eyes 
very  slowly,  he  was,  however,  none  the  less  horri- 
fied to  see,  sitting  on  his  hind-legs,  an  enormous 
tiger,  with  its  glaring  eyes  fixed  on  the  bed  and  its 
occupant.  Not  having  any  weapon  near  him,  the 
Dutchman  felt  he  was  defenceless,  but  had  nerve 
enough  to  remain  quietly  where  he  Avas,  keeping  his 
half-closed  eyes  fixed  on  the  unwelcome  visitor. 
In  a  few  moments,  which  appeared  to  him  not 
only  the  most  momentous,  but  the  longest,  he  had 
ever  experienced,  the  intruder  stood  on  all-fours, 
and  sniffed  about  a  little.  "  I  cannot  live  it  out," 
tliought  the  poor  gentleman,  "  if  he  comes  to  my 
bed  again  ;"  and  as  he  lay  he  could  feel  the  cold 
persj)iration  dropping  down  his  face.  Fortunately, 
however,  his  ordeal  was  over  sooner  than  he  antici- 
pated,   for    the    tiger,    making   his   way    to    the 


A  GOOD  TIGER.  37 

opening  ^vliicli  served  as  a  door,  jumped  to  the 
ground. 

The  astDiiisIied  and  terrified  gentleman  instantly 
arose,  and  ealling  up  his  men,  asked  them  if  they 
had  seen  anything  of  the  tiger.  Their  reply  Ijeing 
in  the  negative,  he  fastened  up  the  entrance  to 
his  room  as  securely  as  ])Ossible,  again  retired  to  his 
hed,  and,  without  any  further  interru})tion,  enjoyed 
his  usu;d  repose. 

Xext  iiHirning,  summoning  all  his  wood-cutters, 
he  ]iri)j)oscd  a  hunt  for  the  tigor,  which  he  felt  con- 
\inced  \\;is  lurking  no  great  wa\'  off.  'J'iiis  propo- 
sition the  men  very  resprctfulK'  declined,  on  the 
gi'ound  tli;U  the  tigei",  li;i\iiig  done  him  no  injury 
Vvlieii  it  ii;id  him  in  iti  power,  must  have  keen  a  good 
o)ie,  wlio,  lie  nii;_|ht  feel  jivsiu'ed,  ^vo^ld  pre-ei've  his 
i-iittle  fi'oiii  the  ;itt;ichs  of  other  wild  ;uiim;ils.  The 
vei-y  lire;it!iiiig  of  th'-  v.ild  he;ist  on  his  f;iee  would, 
according  to  tlnir  coip.iction,  net  ;is  a  clinriu 
against  all  dan^-ei-s  k\'  which  he  miuht  he    as.^alled. 


38  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

The  gentleman  laughed  incredulously,  but,  as  he 
was  the  only  European,  gave  way  to  them  so  far 
as  concerned  his  proposed  hunt.  Notwithstanding, 
liowcver,  his  labourers'  good  opinion  of  the  tiger, 
he  took  care,  before  nightfall,  to  have  an  effectual 
barrier,  in  the  shape  of  a  rough  door,  fixed  in  the 
opening  through  which  the  dangerous  animal  had 
made  its  entrance  and  escape. 

Near  Sukowinangong,  the  eighth  post  from 
Ngawie,  we  came  in  view  of  some  mountains,  the 
Rajah  JMunko,  and  the  well-known  Marabo  and 
Marapi,  the  smoke  of  the  latter  rising  in  misty 
clouds  against  the  clear  blue  sky. 

At  the  next  station  we  found  ourselves  close  to 
the  river  Solo  ;  where,  on  an  elevation,  is  still  to 
be  seen  a  house,  surrounded  by  a  low  embrasured 
wall,  formerly  a  Dutch  outpost,  the  garrison  oc- 
cupying which,  at  a  former  period,  had  bravely 
encountered  and  resisted  many  savage  and  deter- 
mined attacks  by  Kanjansinong,  a  Sultan  of  Solo, 


JAVANESE  COOLIES.  39 

wlio,  an  inveterate  enemy  to  the  Dutch,  could  ill 
brook  their  possession  of  the  island. 

The  descent  to  the  river's  edge  is  very  precipi- 
tous ;  and,  as  the  stream  is  here  both  broad  and 
deep,  our  vehicle  and  horses  were  ferried  over  on 
bamboo  rafts.  After  we  had  crossed  we  con- 
tinued our  journey  rapidly,  and  soon  approached 
the  capital  of  the  Susuhunan,  or  Emperor  of 
Java. 

The  coolies  who  were  in  waiting  to  push  and 
pull  uj)  tlie  carriage,  appeared  to  me  to  be  men 
of  larger  stature  than  the  Javanese  in  general — 
prouder  in  their  demeanour  and  bearing  than 
their  gentle  and  submissive-looking  brethren  with 
whom  we  had  hitherto  come  in  contact. 

The  entrance  into  Soerakarta  is  very  pretty. 
For  a  mill'  or  so  before  reacliiug  it  tlie  road  lies 
between  native  campongs,  not  ([uite  so  neat  and 
clean-looking  as  those  in  Batavia,  wliere  they  are 
regularly  whitewashed  once  a  year,  but  shaded  by 


40  LIFE  IX  JAVA. 

lofty,  noble  tamarind  trees,  which  form  a  shady 
avenue  all  along  the  road.  The  people  we  met 
seemed  to  be  dressed  more  swellishly,  with  sarongs 
of  every  bright  tint,  reaching  below  the  ankles;  and 
many  of  the  male  sex  wore  hats  like  inverted 
flower-pots,  made  of  bamboo,  and  covered  with 
paper,  painted  black  and  varnished.  Others  had 
semicircular  combs  in  their  hair,  fixed  a  little  above 
the  crown  of  the  head — reminding  me  of  the  natives 
of  Ceylon,  who  appear,  in  many  ways,  to  have  a 
greater  affinity  to  the  Javanese  than  any  other 
Asiatic  nation. 

Their  mode  of  saluting  Europeans  struck  us  at 
first  as  very  singular ;  but  after  a  few  weeks  of 
travelling,  we  soon  became  accustomed  to  it.  When- 
ever we  approached  a  native  riding  on  horseback, 
he  would  innnediately  dismount,  and  wait  until 
our  carriage  had  passed  by,  bowing  low  as  we  drew 
near.  Frequently  a  string  of  peasants,  trotting 
l^riskly  homewards,  on  catching  ^siglit  of  us,  would 


AN  UNCOMFORTABLE  NIGHT.  41 

suddenly  check  their  animals,  lead  them  ofp  the 
main  road,  and,  with  hat  in  hand,  stand  uncovered 
bv  their  horses  until  avc  had  driven  past.  I  can 
])erfectly  understand  now  why  the  Dutch  com- 
plain of  the  manner  of  the  natives  in  our  Eastern 
l)ossessions,  who,  it  must  be  confessed,  are  some- 
times very  impertinent  to  strangers,  never  having 
been  taught  by  us  such  submission  as  the  Javanese 
render  to  tlieir  masters. 

We  arrived  too  late  to  present  our  letter  of  intro- 
duction that  night  to  Colonel  J ,  commandant 

of  the  fort.  A\'e  therefore  in(pu*i-e(l  if  there  was 
any  place  wliere  we  could  rest  for  the  m'ght,  and 
were  directed  to  a  dirty-looking  hovel,  the  oidy 
!<"l;:ing  ill  the  j.lace,  at  which,  to  add  to  its  other 
discomforts,  we  could  ]»rocure  no  food  fit  to  eat. 
Ib)i-ing,  however,  for  l)etter  tilings  on  tlie  morrow, 
we  m;„|,,  the  l,cst  of  circumstances  which  could 
not  be  lielju'd  ;  and  after  passing  a  most  uncom- 
fortable  i.iglif,  despatche.l   Drahman  in  tlie  morn- 


42  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

ing  with  our  letter  to  Colonel  J .  That  gen- 
tleman at  once  called  with  his  wife  and  invited  us 
to  his  house,  sending  his  own  carriage  to  take  us 
there,  and  showing  us  every  kindness  during  our 
stay  in  Soerakarta,  or,  as  the  natives  call  it,  Solo. 

The  traders  of  Malacca  use  this  name  as  a  kind 
of  advertising  medium  to  enhance  the  value  of  the 
weapons  they  import  for  sale. 

Such  a  statement  as  the  following  may  fre- 
quently be  heard  when  they  are  anxious  to  push 
the  sale  of  their  goods : 

"  Where  can  you  buy  a  finer  kriss  than  this  ? 
Allah,  Tuan,  it  comes  from  the  tanah  Solo  (land 
of  Solo)  ;  and  where's  the  weapon  that  will  match 
it  for  sharpness  and  strength?  None  can  beat 
Solo  krisses — no,  not  even  those  of  Bugis !" 

In  all  probability,  except  the  hilt,  which  is  of 
Malay  workmanship,  the  kriss  is  all  of  Birmingham 
manufacture,  as  the  Solo  weapons,  being  highly 
prized,  arc  very  expensive. 


HISTORICAL  EVEJy^TS.  4B 

Soerakarta  is  surrounded  by  five  provinces.  Its 
climate  is  very  agreeable  and  healthy,  the  heat 
never  being  very  oppressive,  and  the  nights  and 
mornings  generally  very  cool  and  refreshing. 

As  several  interesting  events  have  occurred  in 
the  history  of  this  province,  I  will  here  interrupt 
the  narrative  of  my  own  journey  to  give  a  sketch 
of  some  of  the  more  important  incidents  in  the 
lives  of  its  princes,  which,  to  those  who  know  little 
of  Java  and  its  history,  may  prove  both  interesting 
and  instructive. 

On  the  destruction  of  Modjophait  by  Moslem 
invaders,  a  descendant  of  the  then  reigning  svdtan 
fled,  with  a  host  of  followers,  into  the  interior  of 
the  ishmd,  conquering  several  ])etty  chiefs  Avho 
opposed  him,  and  finally  settling  down  in  a  small 
town  called  Padjang,  which  he  quickly  walled 
round  and  dignified  by  tlie  name  of  Kraton.  In 
process  of  time  he  extended  his  conrpiests  east- 
ward  to   Passeroewan ;  and   all   the  land  fifty  or 


44  LIFE  IX  JAVA. 

sixty  miles  to  the  west  of  his  Kraton  was  either 
virtually  his,  or  its  princes  acknowledged  them- 
selves his  feudatories.  He  was  now  styled  the 
Ratu,  or  King  of  Padjang,  a  dignity  which  he  was 
not  long  allowed  to  enjoy  in  peace.  His  foes, 
growing  jealous  of  his  increasing  power,  marched 
to  the  confines  of  his  dominions,  where  they  Avere 
met  by  a  large  force,  headed  by  the  Ratu's 
favourite  chief,  Pamanahan,  who,  after  displaying 
great  bravery,  compelled  the  enemy  to  beat  a  hasty 
I'etreat. 

For  this  signal  victory  the  King  of  Padjang 
bestowed  upon  Pamanahan  a  whole  province,  con- 
ferring on  him  the  title  of  Kiahi-gede  ]Matarram, 
or  prince  of  ^latarram.  The  dignity  thus  acquired 
he  enjoyed  as  long  as  he  lived,  which,  unfortu- 
nately, was  bnt  a  short  time.  On  his  death  he 
was  succeeded  by  his  son,  who  styled  himself 
Sultan  Senopati  AVongalogo. 

This  youth,  full  of  ambition,   and  wanting  in 


A  rebf:llious  trince.  45 

gratitude,  refused  to  pay  allegiance  to  his  father's 
benefactor,  and  commenced  building  a  Kraton 
which  he  called  Passar  Gede.  The  Sultan  of 
Padjang,  on  hearing  of  this  rebellious  conduct, 
immediately  sent  messengers  with  orders  for  the 
instant  demolition  of  the  new  Kraton.  The  young 
])rince  not  only  insulted  the  officers  of  the  Sultan, 
lAit  sent  them  back  with  a  message  of  defiance  to 
their  master,  whom  he  further  offended  by  the 
completion  of  the  Kraton  he  had  been  ordered  to 
pull  down.  Finding  his  demands  thus  scoffed  at 
and  scorned,  the  liatu  resohed  to  ])ursue  ano- 
ther course.  As  he  neither  sent  any  further 
deniantl,  nor  took  any  hostile  measures  against 
him,  the  rash  youth  Ix'gan  to  congratulate  himself 
on  the  success  of  the  l)old  stej)S  he  had  taken. 
Put  his  joy  was  ])remature.  P^astern  jjotentates 
are  not  so  easily  turned  from  any  course  on  whicli 
tlu'V  have  once  decided.  If  they  cannot  accom- 
plish it  by  fair  means,  they  will   by  foul.     So  it 


46  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

was  in  the  present  case ;  for  in  the  year  1586,  the 
Sultan  found  means  to  have  the  rebelHous  prince 
dispatched  by  poison  or  the  dagger.  The  King  of 
Padjang  lost  no  time,  on  hearing  of  the  success 
of  his  murderous  scheme,  in  hastening  to  take 
possession  of  Passar  Gede,  where  he  was  speed- 
ily proclaimed  Sultan  of  Padjang,  and  King  of 
Matarram. 

Passing  over  three  lineal  successors,  we  come  to 
the  fourth,  who  ascended  the  throne  as  Susuhunan, 
or  Emperor,  jSIangkuraht  I.  This  sovereign,  de- 
serting the  Kraton  of  his  forefathers,  built  another 
a  mile  from  it,  which  he  named  Karta  Soei'a,  signi- 
fying the  Work  of  Heroes.  The  fifth  styled 
himself  Susuhunan  Pakoe  Bowono  I.,  or  Nail  of 
the  Universe ;  and  his  son,  who  succeeded  him  in 
1719,  was  called  Ilamaigku  Raht  II.,  his  previous 
name  being  Mangko  Negoro.  Two  of  his  brothers 
gave  the  Dutch  incessant  trouble  for  some  years; 
and  at  last,  on  being  found  concerned   in  Elber- 


MIGRATIOX  TO  A  NEW  KKATOX.  47 

feld's  plot,  were  exiled  to  one  of  the  Moluccas. 
In  the  time  of  Pakoe  Bowono  II.,  who  filled 
the  throne  nine  years  after  the  demise  of  his 
father,  Ilamanku  Raht  II.,  the  Kraton  was  attacked 
and  taken  by  Chinese  insurgents,  the  Sultan  and 
his  followers  narrowly  escaping  with  their  lives. 
Ilamanku  several  times  tried  to  drive  out  the  un- 
welcome intruders ;  hut  as  every  attempt  proved  a 
failure,  he  called  the  Dutch  to  his  assistance,  and 
in  conjunction  with  them  accomplished  his  object. 
In  return  for  the  aid  they  had  afforded  him,  he 
made  several  concessions  of  laud  to  them,  hi 
conse([uence,  howex  er,  of  the  Kraton  having  been 
seized,  it  was  considered  unlucky  and  deserted,  the 
whole  court  and  attendants  migrating  to  a  new 
Kraton  whicli  the  Sultan  had  erected,  and  whicii, 
hy  a  trans])ositi()ii  of  words,  he  called  Soera-karta. 
Hut  he  was  no  sooner  peacefully  established  here 
than  fresh  ditiicultics  and  troubles  ai'ose.  His 
^    third    brother,    pn^bubly  influenced    by  ijitriguing 


48  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

parties  both  witliin  and  without  the  dominions  of 
the  Sultan,  claimed  a  right  to  share  the  throne  and 
the  revenues  of  the  country ;  and  Hamanku, 
anxious  to  spare  uiuieccssary  bloodshed,  decided 
to  invite  the  Dutch  to  act  as  arbitrators  and  settle 
the  dispute.  This  they  did  in  a  manner  con- 
formable to  the  political  game  they  were  then 
playing. 

They  divided  the  kingdom  of  Padjang  into  the 
provinces  of  Soerakarta  and  Djokdjokarta,  thus 
weakening  what  was  once  a  powerful  state.  The 
former  and  larger  of  the  two  divisions,  situated 
about  the  middle  of  the  island,  they  made  the 
seat  of  the  Susuhunan,  or  object  of  adoration  ;  and 
in  the  latter  they  placed  Plamanku's  brother,  with 
the  title  of  Hamangkoe  Bewono  I.,  Sultan  of 
Djokdja.  From  these  princes  are  descended  the 
present  Emperor  and  Sultan. 

The  Susuhunan,  whose  person  is  held  sacred 
by  his  subjects,  dwells  in  the  Kraton  which  I  sub- 


JAVANESE  PRINCES.  49 

sequently  visited.  The  Dutch  give  him  the  title 
of  Kaiser,  and  to  Englishmen  in  the  East  he  is 
known  as  the  Emperor  of  Java.  In  fact,  both  he 
and  his  neighbour  are  spoken  of  as  independent 
princes  ;  but  all  who  visit  the  Vorsten  Landen  must 
know  well  that  the  movements  of  these  two  sove- 
reigns are  as  rigorously  guarded  as  those  of  the 
dissolute  ex-king  of  Oude  at  Calcutta !  The  only 
real  independence  they  now  possess  is  in  the 
management  of  their  own  affairs  of  state,  and  the 
power  of  letting  the  lands  under  their  dominion  to 
Europeans  or  Chinamen  for  cultivation,  without 
enforcing  the  third  of  the  produce  from  them. 

The  Susuhunan,  and  the  princes  who  hold 
landed  property,  have  cavalry  and  infantry  of  their 
own,  a  kind  of  Tjandwehr,  or  militia,  subject  to 
regulation,  discij)line,  and  eqm'pment  like  that  of 
tiic  Dutch  army;  each  regiment  having,  besides 
thosn  officers  appointed  by  the  princes  themselves, 
a  Dutch  major,  ca[)tain,  and  ensign. 

VOL.  IF.  E 


50  LIFE  IN  JAVA.     , 

So  far  as  we  could  see  and  learn,  these  native 
sovereigns  are  perfectly  content  with  their  present 
position.  The  titles,  rank,  and  orders,  which, 
from  time  to  time,  the  King  of  Holland  confers 
upon  them,  are  regarded  as  marks  of  honour,  which 
they  receive  with  gratification.  They  are,  how- 
ever, given  to  petty  jealousies  and  rivalries  among 
themselves,  and,  probably,  if  left  entirely  to  their 
own   guidance,    might    prove   the    truth    of    the 

saying — 

"  That  he  may  take 
Who  has  the  power, 
And  he  may  keep  who  can/' 

The  fort  lies  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  from 

which  four  roads  branch  off  in  opposite  directions. 

It  is  surrounded  b}'  a  deep  ditch,  continually  filled 

with  water,  which  is  fed  by  two  large  tanks.     The 

walls  are  mounted  with  guns  of  a  large  calibre, 

some  of  which,  in  case  of  an  insurrection,  could  be 

easily  directed  against  the  outer  gates  of  the  Kraton, 

situated  at  no  great  distance. 


THE  COTA  BLUNDA.  51 

Facing  the  fort  are  a  number  of  European 
houses,  and  behind  it  is  situated  the  Cota  Blunda, 
or  old  Dutch  quarter,  the  only  part  of  the  town  in 
wliich,  till  within  late  years,  for  their  safety  and 
protection  from  the  natives,  who  used  to  be  trou- 
blesome and  dangerous,  European  inhabitants  were 
permitted  to  reside. 

To  the  left,  beyond  the  road,  a  portion  of  the 
old  Kraton's  ruined  walls  was  just  visible  through 
the  tangled  network  of  wild  plants  and  trees.  On 
the  right  hand  is  the  Peppay  road,  so  called  from  a 
small  river  which  runs  past  it,  dividing  the  Chinese 
from  the  European  quarter. 

I  do  not  know  the  exact  date  when  the  fort  was 
built,  but  I  am  probably  not  far  wrong  in  saying 
about  the  year  1672.  Its  construction  is  very 
similar  to  tliat  of  the  other  stronifholds  I  had  alreadv 
seen  in  ,[;iva.  The  walls,  which  are  not  angulated, 
after  the  ])laii  of  Vauban  or  Descartes,  are  waslied 
with  a  dark  slate  coloured  preparation,  as  though  the 

E  2 


52  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

nation  were  in  the  deepest  mourning.  This  colour, 
I  believe,  is  adopted  on  account  of  its  durability. 

The  roads  near  the  fort  are  shaded  by  avenues 
of  trees,  which,  from  a  distance,  completely  conceal 
the  walls  from  view.  I  noticed  that  all  buildings 
of  a  similar  description,  which  I  had  hitherto  seen 
in  the  island,  were  planted  round  with  tall  trees, 
some  of  them  so  completely  hidden  behind  bamboo 
hedcres  as  to  be  almost  concealed  from  sio;ht.  This 
arrangement  is  intentional — the  argument  in  its 
favour  being  that  the  trees  serA^e  as  a  kind  of 
screen,  by  which,  in  time  of  war,  the  number  of 
guns  would  be  concealed  from  the  besieging  force ; 
and  not  only  this,  but  in  case  of  necessity  they 
might  answer  the  purpose  of  gabions,  &c.,  to  stop 
a  breach,  or  strengthen  a  weak  part. 

I  was  told  that,  up  to  the  period  of  twelve  or 
thirteen  vears  ago,  the  drawbrido-es  of  both  front 
and  postern  gates  were  drawn  up  every  evening, 
and  lowered  the  next  morning.     A  small  guard,  too, 


MURDERS.  53 

was  always  stationed  in  the  Cota  Bluncla.  At  this 
time,  murders  in  the  dead  of  night  were  very  fre- 
quent in  all  parts  of  the  town,  especially  in  the 
Peppay  road,  one  might  almost  say  under  the  very 
walls  of  the  fort.  Yet  the  murderers  always  suc- 
ceeded in  making  their  escape  ;  for  if  any  of  the 
native  inhabitants  saw  the  dreadful  act,  or  if  their 
suspicions  were  directed  to  the  guilty  party,  they 
carefully  concealed  their  knowledge,  for  fear  of 
retaliation.  Thus  life — to  use  the  lanrruafie  of 
a  native — was  as  cheap  as  a  withered  leaf.  The 
victims  of  assassination  were  mostly  Chinese  and 
natives,  who  were  either  butchered  for  the  purpose 
of  robbery,  or  from  some  private  feeling  of  enmity. 
Sometimes  the  bodies  (jf  the  murdered  were  thrown 
into  the  shallow  river,  and  at  others  left  on  the 
road  to  be  recognised  next  morning  by  some 
passer-by. 

The   state   of   things  had  become  so  fearful  that 
no  one  veiitiuvd   to  walk  aljroad  after  dusk.     The 


54  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

Dutch,  therefore,  seeing  the  necessity  of  checking 
this  growing  evil,  made  representations  regarding 
it  to  the  Susuhunan,  requesting  him  to  make  more 
stringent  laws  for  the  safety  of  the  inhabitants. 
These  representations  had  the  desired  effect. 
Strict  watch  was  set  upon  certain  suspected 
parties,  who  were  finally  caught,  proved  guilty, 
and  sentenced  to  death.  The  execution  of  these 
criminals  proved  a  salutary  lesson,  as  the  amount 
of  crime  committed  began  from  that  time  to  lessen; 
and  at  the  present  day  there  is  not  in  the  whole  of 
J  a va  a  more  peaceful  town  than  Soerakarta. 

The  gamson  is  composed  of  Dutch,  Swiss,  and 
African  soldiers.  The  latter  are  mostly  tall,  stout, 
and  sinewy  men,  and  generally  make  hard-work- 
ing, patient,  and  enduring  soldiers.  After  serving 
twenty  years  they  receive  a  pension,  and  are 
allowed  either  to  remain  in  the  island,  or  to  return 
to  their  native  land. 

As  our  host  and  hostess  could  not  speak  French 


A  RECEPTION.  55 

or  English,  and  we  were  ignorant  of  Dutch,  our 
conversation  was  carried  on  in  Malay,  which,  as 
spoken  here,  differs  in  some  points  from  that 
spoken  in  the  Malayan  peninsula.  This  difference 
is  doubtless  owing  to  its  being  mixed  with  many 
words  of  the  Javanese  language. 

The  evening  following  our  arrival  within  the 
fort  happening  to  be  the  colonel's  birthday,  he  in- 
vited his  officers  and  some  of  the  native  princes  to 
a  reception;  but,  as  there  were  no  ladies  present 
except  our  hostess  and  my  wife,  the  amusement  of 
the  evening  was  princi})ally  at  the  vist  tables,  a 
game  of  which  the  Dutch  are  particularly  fond.  The 
]{esident  and  some  princes  were  of  the  party,  Avhich 
was  of  sufficient  ini])ortance  to  merit  particular  de- 
scrijition. 

1'lie  first  who  arrived  was  distinguished  by  the 
high-sounding  title  of  Pangeran  Addi  Phati-sarie 
Munko-Nctroro.  The  fact  of  his  bcinir  a  (U'scend- 
ant  of   tlic  Miuiko-Xciroi'o  ahvadv  mentioned — a 


56  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

name  signifying  literally,  "  the  earth  supported  on 
the  thigh" — entitled  him  to  this  imposing  if  not  very 
euphonious  appellation.  This  distinguished  indivi- 
dual made  his  appearance  in  a  grand  carriage 
drawn  by  four  splendid  grey  Arabs,  followed  by  a 
small  suite  of  attendants,  escorted  by  two  outriders 
of  his  cavalry,  and  accompanied  by  some  of  his 
sons. 

He  was  about  the  middle  height,  his  dark  face 
was  wrinkled,  but  his  black  eyes  were  full  of  viva- 
city and  penetration.  From  his  conversation,  one 
could  see  at  once  that  he  was  a  lover  of  knowledge, 
and  ever  ready  to  gain  information.  In  Arabic  he 
was  quite  at  home,  and  knew  as  much  of  the  old 
Kawie  as  could  possibly  be  gathered  from  the  sinu- 
ous characters  of  that  extinct  language,  which,  as  a 
Javanese  once  observed  to  me,  "  we  can  pronounce 
perfectly,  but  are  ignorant  of  its  meaning." 

He  was  a  most  amusing  companion  to  converse 
with.     His  knowledge  of  Eastern  history  being  ex- 


AN  INTELLIGENT  NATIVE.  57 

tensive,  lie  was  full  of  anecdotes  of  past  and  present 
times.  When  I  asked  him  if  he  remembered  Sir 
Stamford  Raffles,  he  replied  in  the  negative,  but 
added — "  I  can  never  forget  the  splendid  English 
horses  my  father  used  to  keep,  some  of  which  were 
presents  from  Sir  Stamford  llaffles."  lie  spoke 
loudly  in  praise  of  our  saddles,  fowling-pieces, 
weapons,  &c.,  which,  when  they  can  be  obtained 
by  the  Javanese,  are  ])rized  very  highly,  lie  seemed 
to  me  to  have  a  better  knowledge  of  Dutch  than 
he  cared  to  shew.  If  such  was  really  the  case,  his 
knowledge  niust  have  been  self-acquired,  the  Dutch, 
as  we  have  already  remarked,  giving  no  encourage- 
ment to  the  acipii^ition  of  their  ditHcult  language 
by  the  natives.  lie  took  great  ])teasure  in  his 
regiments,  spoke  with  pride  of  the  cavalry  and 
infantry,  comprising  se\enteen  hnndre(l  men  in  all, 
anil  pressed  me  vei'v  mueli  to  I'emain  in  Soerakarta 
to  see  a  lieM-day  they  were  about  to  Inne. 

The  '•  Cron-l'rins,  ■'  as  the  J>)uteh  call  him,  from 


58  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

his  being  nephew  and  heir-apparent  to  the  old 
Susuhnnan,  arrived  soon  after  the  Munko-Negoro, 
coming  in  a  carriage  gorgeously  decorated  with 
bright  colours  and  gilding,  drawn  by  six  Australian 
horses,  and  escorted  by  four  of  his  body-guard. 
He  was  a  young  man,  about  two-and-twenty,  the 
father  of  a  pretty  boy,  and  of  several  daughters,  who 
were  left  at  home,  as  in  this  country  girls  are  sel- 
dom brought  into  company.  In  person  he  was 
short,  with  a  strong  Hindoostanee  cast  of  counte- 
nance. His  eyes  were  large,  dark,  and  brilliant ; 
but  expressive  of  mildness  and  tenderness.  He 
was  dressed  in  the  Dutch  uniform,  as  Major  or 
Colonel — I  foro;et  which — of  the  Susuhunan's 
troops,  his  head  only,  like  that  of  the  other  natives, 
being  dressed  up  in  a  (Jark  blue  kerchief. 

This  native  prince  was  not  married  at  the  time  I 
speak  of,  though  his  union  was  then  in  contempla- 
tion ;  but  he  had  a  seraglio  of  bondays  or  concubines, 
by  whom  he  had  already  a  number  of  children.     A 


THE  CRON-PRINS.  59 

laro;e  suite  of  attendants,  sword  and  kriss  bearers, 
betel  nut  and  hat  carriers,  &c.,  accompanied  him, 
ever  on  the  alert  to  minister  to  his  wants.  His 
father,  Pakoe  Bewono  VIL,  died  in  1859.  He 
resides  in  the  Kraton,  having  a  separate  house  and 
establishment  of  his  own. 


CHAPTER  III. 


VISIT  TO  THE  KUATOX— lOOI.HATiDIXESS — PRESEXCE  OF  MIND — 
TIMELY  SLCCUIK — MELANCHOLY  DEATH  OF  A  KEEPER  FKOM 
FIHOHT — THE  Mr.S(,li- — A  VISIT  TO  THE  SUSUIIUNAN — UN- 
UE(iALVi:STllirLK — I'lHXOITAX — CURIOUS  CEREMOXY — SHORT 

ACCOUNT  (Jl    I'AKOK    IlKWOXO    VIII. HIS    DISLIKE    FOR    I'OMI' 

AND  STATE — XATIVI'  TALES  OF  TWO  OREAT  OUXS — A  VISIT 
TO  THE  MUNKO-NE(;Ol;o — RESPECT  FOR  ROYAL  BLOOD — TUAX 
RATU — SLAMAl   OALAX. 


63 


CHAPTER  III. 

The  next  day,  while  waiting  for  an  answer  to  the 
request  we  had  made  to  the  Susuhunan,  that  he 
would  grant  us  an  interview,  we  amused  ourselves 
by  going  into  the  Kraton.*  This  celebrated  place, 
the  lions  of  which  we  were  anxious  to  see,  is  a  mile 
square,  and  suiTounded  by  a  high  wall  about  twelve 
feet  in  height,  and  two  or  tlu'ee  thick.  Some  of 
tlie  Kratons  have  four  principal  gates,  but  this  one 
of  Soerakarta  has  oidy  two.  Within  its  walls  are 
the  ])ahice  of  the  Eni])cror,  the  houses  of  the  princes 
and  nol)iHt.y  about  the  court,  and  a  hirge  village  of 
atta]i  huts,  iiiliabit('(l  by  the  servants  of  the  respect- 
ive households. 

IlavingcntcredyWe  crossed  the.l  loicn  Alov  u,  and 

*'nic\v(]nl  Krjitoii  is  sjiid  to  liavt,'  been  dcrivoil  from  I'atu 
— a  kiu<^ — ivini  si;,MiifiL'S,  a  ))lacc  uf  kings. 


(34  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

went  straight  to  see  the  tigers,  which  are  kept  here 
till  some  great  occasion,  when  there  is  to  be  a  fight 
similar  to  the  one  I  have  already  described.  After 
some  delay  the  juru  coonchie  appeared,  and  con- 
ducted us  within  a  small  enclosed  area,  where,  in  a 
large  cage,  made  of  thick  teak  beams  negligently 
put  together,  we  discerned  through  the  chinks  four 
tigers  walking  from  side  to  side.  I  w^as  told  that 
two  soldiers  came  to  see  them,  on  a  certain  occa- 
sion ;  and  one  of  them,  anxious  for  a  closer  in- 
spection, mounted  a  ladder  and  gained  the  roof. 
While  stooping  over  the  space  purposely  left  open 
for  the  keeper  to  drop  the  food  in,  his  cap  came  off, 
and,  as  he  failed  to  seize  it,  fell  on  the  floor  below. 
Knowing  that  to  return  without  it  would  subject 
him  to  punishment,  he  endeavoured  to  raise  it  up 
by  means  of  a  pole,  but  finding  this  ineffectual,  he 
rashly  jumped  down  into  the  den.  His  comrade, 
on  witnessing  this  foolhardy  leap,  concluded  he  was 
lost,  and  ran  as  fast  as  his  legs  would  carry  him,  to 


PRESENCE  OF  MIND.  65 

acquaiut  tlie  officers  of  his  regiment.  The  report 
spread  Kke  wildfire,  and  before  many  minutes  had 
elapsed  several  soldiers  had  hurried  to  the  spot, 
calling  out,  '•  Franz  !  Franz  !"  the  name  of  their 
comrade.  To  their  great  astonishment  and  delight, 
liis  voice  was  heard  in  answer, 

"  I  am  alive,  but  want  to  be  out  of  this  vile- 
smelling  place." 

"  Ilimmel  I"'  exclaimed  a  young  German,  "  lose 
no  time — hand  up  the  ladder",  and  he  climbed  up  to 
the  top  in  a  moment.  "  Now,  Franz,"  he  exclaimed, 
as  he  lowered  it  through  the  aperture,  "be  quick! — 
run  up  as  fast  as  you  can  !" 

Franz  needed  no  second  bidding.  In  less  than 
two  miiuitcs  he  had  joined  his  conu'ades,  none  the 
worse,  and  nothing  daunted  by  his  strange  intei-- 
view. 

•' ^Vll(■Il  first  1  jumped  down,"  saitl  he,  in  rej)lv 
to  the  ([uei'ies  of  his  coiiu'ades,  ''  1  came  sj)raw]iiiii; 
on  all -fours,  and  had  no  sooner  got  uj)  again,  tjian 

VOL.  II.  r 


66  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

I  began  to  think  I  had  clone  a  very  silly  thing.  In 
one  corner  I  saw,  as  I  looked  round,  six  glittering 
eyes — like  golden  balls — glaring  at  me ;  and  at  the 
opposite  side  a  tiger,  apparently  bolder  than  the 
rest,  advanced  toward  me.  Seeing  the  beast's  in- 
tention, and  knowing  how  utterly  defenceless  I 
was,  I  gave  utterance  to  an  awful  yell,  and  to  my 
no  small  delight  he  turned,  and,  as  though  terrified 
at  the  unusual  sound,  cowered  down  again.  '  You 
are  not  very  hungry,  my  boy,'  was  my  thought,  as 
I  picked  up  my  cap,  and  took  my  seat  on  one  of 
the  cross-beams,  to  await  the  arrival  of  some  kind 
friend ;  and  you  may  judge  with  what  pleasure  I 
heard  your  voices  as  you  came  to  liberate  me — for, 
besides  the  fear  of  danger,  the  smell  of  the  place 
quite  made  me  sick." 

This  man's  extraordinary  coolness  and  courage, 
which  was  the  topic  of  conversation  for  many  days, 
gained  him  the  admiration  of  the  officers,  and  for 
a  time  he  was  quite  the  "  lion"  of  the  place. 


FATAL  INCIDENT.  67 

Another  but  more  fatal  incident  was  related  to 
me  at  the  same  time.  A  keeper,  whilst  engaged  in 
throwing  down  the  carcases  of  dogs,  &c.,  to  the 
wild  beasts,  slipped  his  foot,  and  falling  into  the 
den,  lay  flat  on  the  ground,  where  he  continued  for 
some  hours,  until  his  wife,  missing  him  at  their  meal- 
time, came  to  the  cage  in  the  hope  of  finding  him. 
"  Ahmet,  Ahmet,  are  you  up  there  ?"  she  cried  as 
she  reached  the  foot  of  the  ladder.  AYho  can 
describe  her  lioiTor  when  the  expected  answer 
came  not  from  above,  but  from  within  the  den. 
Her  cries  for  help  soon  brought  numbers  to  the 
spot,  and  poor  Ahmet  was,  at  last,  with  some  difh- 
cuUy,  hoisted  up  by  the  aid  of  ropes.  He  seemed 
almost  ])araly/,ed  with  feai',  and  on  lieing  carried 
home,  was  put  to  l)cd,  where  he  was  seized  with 
(I'Diiiiium  ."^tijii,  or  ague,  and  died  next  day. 

On  tlu'  opposite  side  of  tlie  green  stands  the 
Mu'^glt,  01*  Mo-fpie.  The  enti'ance  of  Kiii'opeans 
into  their '' sacred  eilifict- '"  is   not   ]irohibite(|,  as   it 

I-  2 


68  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

is  in  Calcutta;  nor  do  they  require  you,  as  at 
Cairo,  to  wear  slippers  before  you  can  step  over 
the  threshold.  The  interior,  like  that  of  all  Mos- 
lem places  of  worship,  is  entirely  devoid  of  images, 
and  possesses  but  few  objects  of  interest  and  curi- 
osity. The  apex  of  the  roof  is  surmounted  by  a 
ball  of  gold,  the  weight  of  which  is  said  to  be  a 
picul,  an  object  of  which  the  Mahomedans  are  very 
proud. 

In  the  afternoon,  accompanied  by  our  kind 
friends,  w^e  visited  the  Susuhunan.  On  entering 
the  Kraton,  after  skirting  the  Alown  Alown,  and 
passing  through  a  lofty  gateway,  we  drove  along 
a  road  for  some  time  between  two  high  walls. 
Arriving  at  length  before  the  entrance  to  the 
courtyard,  the  massive  w^ooden  gates  were  opened, 
and  a  file  of  the  Kaiser's  body-guard,  composed  of 
small  men,  with  disproportionate-looking  swords, 
saluted  us  as  we  entered.  Passing  from  this  into 
another  large  square,  we  were  again  saluted  ;  and 


VISIT  TO  THE  SUSUnUNAN.  69 

in  a  third  met  with  a  simiLar  reception.  At  last 
we  reached  the  vestibule,  which  was  very  dirty. 
The  mirrors,  having,  from  neglect,  lost  part  of  their 
([uicksilver,  and  the  gilding  having  disappeared 
from  their  once  splendid  frames,  had  a  tarnished 
appearance.  The  floor  was  strewed  with  ends  of 
cigars,  roccos,  tobacco,  and  other  refuse ;  and  the 
walls  Avere  daubed  with  red  in  patches,  marking 
the  spots  where  the  careless  inmates  had  expec- 
torated the  betel-nut,  &c.,  after  having  chewed  it. 
Here  we  waited  while  two  dirty  old  women — 
who,  to  their  profession  of  cake-vendors  to  the 
court,  added  that  of  porters  also — announced  our 
arrival ;  and  a  native  band  having  almost  at  the 
same  moment  struck  up  a  wild  air,  we  marched  in 
order,  escorted  by  some  officers  of  the  royal  liouse- 
Iiolil,  to  till'  Pringitan,  or  Audience  Hall — a 
kind  of  large  s(|uare  verandah,  on  a  level  with  the 
main  l»uililiiigs,  roofed  over,  I)ut  open  on  three 
sides,  and  sujijiorted  l)y  pillars,  on  which  tigures  of 


70  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

birds  and  flowers  are  carved.  It  is  reached  by  a 
flight  of  steps  which  extends  along  two  sides. 
Being  ignorant  of  the  etiquette  necessary  in  this 
foreign  court,  we  determined  to  make  good  use  of 
our  eyeSj  and  follow  exactly  the  movements  of  the 
colonel  and  his  wife,  who,  having  been  frequently 
at  court  before,  were  perfectly  familiar  with  the 
requisite  forms. 

As  we  approached  within  a  few  steps  of  the 
Pringitan  we  bowed  to  his  majesty,  who  graciously 
acknowledged  this  mark  of  respect  by  a  slight  in- 
clination of  his  head.  Mounting  the  steps,  we 
stopped  again  on  the  top  one,  and  all  bowed,  the 
officers  saluting  him  with  their  swords.  After  ad- 
vancing a  little  farther  towards  him,  we  came  to  a 
dead  halt,  for  the  third  and  last  time,  and  when 
about  a  yard  from  his  royal  person,  lowered  our 
heads  once  more.  When  will  this  end  I  thought 
I,  for  we  began  to  think  the  ceremony  rather 
tedious.     All  that   remained  now,   however,  was 


JAVANESE  PRINCESSES.  71 


the  process  of  introduction,   and    Colonel  J- 


liavinfT  presented  us  to  liis  majesty,  who  shook 
hands  with  us,  we  all  sat  down  in  a  semicircle,  in 
the  centre  of  which,  seated  on  a  chair,  cushioned 
with  red  velvet,  was  the  Susuhunan.  Ilis  sister- 
in-law,  niece,  and  two  daughters,  the  latter  looking 
almost  as  aged  and  wrinkled  as  their  father,  were 
seated  on  his  right  hand.  The  niece  was  what 
one  might  term  a  good-looking  Javanese  girl, 
with  large  dark  eyes,  and  complexion  fairer  tlian 
the  generality  of  natives,  probably  owing  to  a 
liberal  aji})lication  of  Biidda,*  as  well  as  to  the 
fact  that  personages  of  her  rank  are  ])ut  little  ex- 
posed to  the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun.  Her  thick 
glossy  black  hair  was  skewered  by  diamond  j)ins, 
the  precious  gems  being  of  unusual  size  and 
kistn;. 

The  Susulmnan  was  in   liis   seventv-sixth  year, 

♦I'owilcr  made  of  aiTdW-root  and  otliiT  fai'iiiarcous  in- 
''rcdit.'Ut<. 


72  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

but  appeared  both  healthy  and  active.  He  must 
have  been  a  rather  tall  man,  but  lost  some  of  his 
height  by  stooping,  though  he  was  less  bent  than 
most  natives  of  his  age.  His  head-dress  consisted 
of  a  black  kerchief,  to  which  were  attached  several 
diamond  ornaments.  In  the  middle,  just  above 
his  forehead,  was  a  yellow  dahlia,  cut  and  trimmed 
so  as  to  look  like  a  brooch,  in  the  centre  of  which 
blazed  a  large  diamond.  He  is  the  only  native 
prince  who  is  entitled  to  wear  this  flower  on  his 
head,  the  ornament  being  regarded  as  a  distinctive 
emblem,  showing  that  he  is  looked  upon  as  the 
most  sacred  of  native  princes  throughout  the  whole 
archipelago.  Round  his  neck  were  three  long 
collars  of  diamonds,  emeralds,  and  gold,  in  addition 
to  a  massive  gold  chain;  and  on  his  left  breast 
some  orders,  one  of  which  was  that  of  the  Lion  of 
Holland.  He  wore,  likewise,  a  medal  which,  hav- 
ing sided  with  the  Dutch,  he  had  gained  during  the 
Ja^a  war.      A  Geneva  watch,  the  back  of  which 


TAKOE  BEAVONO  VIII.  73 

was  covered  with  diamonds,  and  a  number  of 
splendid  rinijs,  completed  the  list  of  the  old  mon- 
arch's jewelry.  The  jacket  he  wore  was  of  green 
satin,  the  vest  of  dark  blue  velvet,  and  the  sarong, 
which  completed  his  attire,  a  batek  of  the  prang 
rusa,  or  deer  fight,  pattern,  which,  like  that  of  the 
Chinese  dragon,  is  only  worn  at  court.  Beside 
each  individual  present  was  placed  a  spittoon,  or, 
as  the  Americans  term  it,  cuspidore — a  word,  by 
the  way,  originally  derived  from  the  Portuguese — 
in  tlie  form  of  a  brass  vase,  ornamented  with 
flowers  and  filigree-work.  The  one  for  the  es- 
pecial use  of  the  Susuhunan,  which  was  of  solid 
gold,  was  ])laced  on  a  stand. 

Pakoe  Pewono  VIII.  (the  present  Susuhunan), 
was  always  unaml)itious,  and  so  averse  to  filling 
the  thi-onc  of  the  Pcwonos,  tliat,  on  tlie  demise  of 
his  father,  he  steadily  refused  to  occupy  the  vacant 
seat,  giving  uj)  his  right  in  favour  of  his  brother, 
who  ascended  the  throne  as  I'akoc  Pewono   VI. 


74  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

This  monarcli's  reign,  however,  was  a  very  short  one. 
ImpKcated  in  certain  intrigues  which  were  sup- 
posed to  be  detrimental  to  the  interests  of  the 
Dutch,  he  was,  by  their  orders,  seized  and  exiled 
to  Amboyna,  where  he  died.  He  was  succeeded 
by  a  third  brother — the  present  emperor  having 
again  refused  the  seat  of  honour — who  conducted 
himself  till  his  death,  which  happened  in  1859,  to 
the  entire  satisfaction  of  all  parties.  Had  the 
"  Cron-Prins,"  his  nephew,  been  old  enough  to 
reign  when  the  monarch  died,  the  present  Susu- 
hunan  would,  for  the  third  time,  have  declined  to 
take  the  reins  of  government  into  his  hands.  As 
it  was,  he  had  no  alternative,  and  I  believe  he  has 
had  no  reason  to  regret  his  exalted  position,  for  his 
reign  has  been  one  of  uninterrupted  peace. 

The  King  of  Holland  has  conferred  upon  him 
several  honours,  one  so  recently  as  the  year  1862, 
when  he  received  the  honorary  title  of  Major- 
General  in  the  Dutch  Indian  army.      His  native 


ROYAL  ECCENTRICITIES.  75 

names  and  titles  are,  Susubunan  of  Soerakarta, 
Pakoc  Bowono,  Senopati,  Ingalatro,  Ngabdoer, 
Rachman,  Ponotogomo. 

Ilis  wife  (lied  a  few  years  ago,  leaving  liini  no 
male  heir,  and,  contrary  to  Javanese  habits,  he  has 
never  remarried,  or  kept  a  seraglio.  The  natives 
themselves  say  of  him,  in  allusion  to  the  purity  of 
of  his  life,  "  Diya  punia  ati  puteli  soongguh — 
— soongguh  sakali." — "  Ilis  heart  is  perfectly 
white." 

He  passes  the  day  in  a  house  adjoining  his 
palace,  and  at  night  never  sleej^s  under  a  mosquito 
curtain,  but  occupies  a  sofa,  which  is  never  two 
niglits  consecutively  stationed  in  the  same  position, 
oi'  in  the  same  room.  Not  unfrecpiently,  when  it  is 
dri/./.Hng  witli  rain,  he  insists  on  sleeping  on  a  mat 
out  of  doors.  Thcs(!  eccentricities  are  attributed  to 
two  reasons  :  tlie  first  maintaincMl  hy  the  Dutch, 
who  ascrih(;  them  to  a  dread  of  treachcrv  from  liis 
own  pe(jple  ;   and  the  second  by  tlie  .Javanese,  who 


76  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

say  he  prefers  the  open  air  because  he  can  com- 
mune, in  the  silence  of  night,  with  the  spirits  of 
bygone  monarchs,  or  hold  converse  with  his  tempo- 
ral and  spiritual  adviser,  Ngaisatomy,  who,  by  day, 
hides  herself  in  a  large  cannon  covered  with  red 
cloth,  and  caged  round  by  trellis-work  of  bamboo, 
and  is  only  exhibited  to  the  public  on  grand  occa- 
sions. This  cannon  stands  in  the  Sitingil,  one  of 
the  courts  near  the  palace,  and  its  inmate  w^ams 
the  Kaiser  of  the  approach  of  danger ;  so,  at  least, 
the  natives  assert,  and  implicitly  believe. 

Simple  and  inexperienced  as  are  the  habits  of 
the  old  Susuhunan,  his  exchequer  has  been  so  low 
of  late  that  he  has  been  constrained  in  many  in- 
stances to  borrow.  In  fact,  matters  had  arrived  at 
such  a  pitch  before  I  left,  that  the  tradespeople 
would  neither  sell,  nor  give  credit  for  anything 
demanded  by  the  members  of  the  Imperial  Court, 
without  a  written  order  from  the  Resident. 

The    Susuhunan   generally  drives  through  the 


THE   RUMA.  77 

Kraton  once  or  twice  every  clay  in  a  shabby  yellow 
car,  the  shape  of  a  boat,  with  poles  at  the  four 
corners,  supporting  a  leathern  canopy.  His  minis- 
ters, and  not  unfrequently  his  daughters  and  grand- 
children, accompany  him,  apparently  more  content 
in  this  simple  turn-out  than  in  his  grand  state 
carriages,  ])haetons,  or  broughams,  of  which  he  has 
no  less  than  one  hundred  cuid  Jiftij  ! 

lie  is  so  much  a  state  prisoner  that  he  cannot 
drive  beyond  tlie  Kraton  without  acqviainting  the 
Resident  with  his  intention,  and  reporting,  on  his 
return,  tlie  places  he  has  been  to. 

On  Mondays  and  Thursdays  he  sits  in  the  Pon- 
(lo])()^  where  lie  receives  salutations  and  good  wishes 
from  liis  subjects,  pi'omotes  his  ofHcers  of  state, 
and  attends  to  the  reports  of  his  Kegents,  Tumum- 
fT()iin;s.  I'aiiixerans,  and  Wodonos. 

IJeyond  the  Pi-iiigitan  stands  the  Kuma,  or 
palace.  From  the  ceiling  of  tlie  verandah  hung 
numbers    of    caiKk'lubi'as,    but,    as    tiie  doors  and 


78  LIFE  IX  JAVA. 

windows  were  all  closed,  we  could  see  nothing  more 
of  the  interior. 

Behind  the  female  portion  of  the  royal  family 
were  seated  several  dancing  girls  and  attendants, 
holding  the  tumpat  syree,  &c.,  ready,  at  a  nod  or 
look  from  one  of  the  family,  to  envelope  the 
necessary  ingredients  in  a  betel  leaf.  Their  dress 
was  very  simple,  something  similar  to  that  of  the 
bride  I  before  described — the  sarong,  which  passed 
over  the  chest  and  under  the  arms,  concealing  the 
bosom,  but  leaving  the  shoulders  and  neck  entirely 
bare.  This  garment  was  confined  round  the  waist 
by  a  long  scarf,  called  the  stagen.  The  move- 
ments of  these  girls,  as  well  as  of  any  one  who 
approached  within  a  prescribed  distance  of  the 
Kaiser,  were  very  peculiar.  Whenever  they  were 
required  to  minister  to  the  wants  of  his  majesty, 
or  of  the  ladies,  they  craM'led  with  knees  doubled 
so  that  the  heels  almost  touched  the  nether  part  of 
the  thighs.     IIow  they  managed  to  move  along  I 


FORMS  OF  OBEISANCE.  79 

cannot  think  ;  to  us  the  attitude  seemed  a  painfully 
constrained  and  awkward  one,  and  it  is  only,  I 
should  fancy,  habit  -which  can  perfect  them  in  this 
way  of  balancing  their  bodies,  as,  holding  the 
article  they  may  have  been  desired  to  fetch,  they 
crawl  from  place  to  place,  moving  their  arms,  and 
never  so  much  as  suffering  the  knee  to  touch  the 
ground,  though  within  an  inch  of  it. 

The  royal  family  were  very  affable,  and  con- 
versed with  us  for  some  time.  After  we  had  been 
there  about  half  an  hour,  tea  was  handed  round, 
with  the  agreeable  accompaniment  of  milk,  an 
addition  which  was  now  made  from  their  better 
knowledge  of  European  taste. 

Several  servants,  or  men  about  the  court,  entered 
the  court-yard  during  our  interview,  either  out  of 
curiosity,  or  in  ])ursuit  of  their  various  avocations. 
All  who  came  within  twentv  vards  or  so  of  the 
Pririgitan,  fell  on  their  knees,  and  made  olieisance 
to   the   Susuhun.'Ui   by  raising  both  hamls,  clasped 


80  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

as  though  in  prayer,  till  on  a  level  with  their  nose. 
However  frequently  the  same  individual  passes 
and  repasses,  this  form  must  be  repeated. 

Wishing  to  have  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  whole 
Kraton  from  the  watch-tower,  a  short  way  beyond 
the  vestibule,  we  were  conducted  to  this  building 
by  one  of  the  numerous  mestizo  officers  in  the 
household  of  the  Susulmnan.  These  mestizos  are 
generally  taller  than  the  Javanese,  and  slightly 
fairer,  but  their  features,  almost  without  exception, 
are  of  the  indisputable  native  t}^e. 

On  our  way  back  to  the  vestibule  we  passed 
several  large  cannons,  some  of  which  are  so  old 
tliat  no  one  can  tell  how  they  came  into  the  island. 
One  of  them,  which  is  said  to  have  belonged  to  the 
Sultan  of  Padjang,  had  an  inscription  in  native 
characters.  This  cannon  is  dignified  by  the  appel- 
lation of  "  sapu-jagatj"  sweeper  of  the  earth,  and 
is  reverenced  by  the  natives  as  a  dispenser  of  good 
and  evil  dreams.     The  following  inscription  Avas 


TKADITION  OF  A  CAXXOX.  81 

on  two  others  of  smaller  dimensions :  ''  Conraet 
Antoniz  me  fecit.  Ilacoe,  1599."  Above  the  trun- 
nions are  two  eagles  and  a  castle,  and  below  these 
figures  tiie  words,  ''  Middleburg  and  Jacop  Beurel, 
Burgomeister.''  In  the  Sitingil  we  were  shown 
the  celebrated  Xgaisatomy.  There  is  a  curious  tra- 
dition concerning  another  gun,  the  Kyhaisatomy, 
which  is  said  to  have  travelled  across  the  country 
to  JJatavia  without  the  aid  of  man  or  beast.  .\1- 
tliough  brouglit  back  to  Soerakarta,  and  chained 
inside  the  Kraton,  so  strong  was  its  predilection 
for  tlie  large  city  that  it  broke  loose  in  tlu'  dead  of 
night  and  returned  to  Batavia,  where  it  remained 
Diily  iur  a  .■-liort  tinu',  and  \\as  on  tlie  point  of  h'aving 
for  some  otlur  bourne,  when  it  was  caught  by  some 
men.  Tn  manlfot  its  tHspleasure,  it  slipped  from 
their  hands  ;ind  fell  on  the  foot  of  one  of  them, 
produeuiii  elephantiasis.  Such  was  the  terror  cre- 
ateil  b\'  the  niiaginarv  jirowess  of  this  'j:\u\.  lliat 
men  retu.-ed  to  come  near  It.  It  was  not  until  it 
vol.,  11,  (; 


82  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

had  been  soothed  by  the  prayers  of  a  liadji,  that 
men  Averc  able  to  convey  it  to  the  back  of  the  Gov- 
ernment warehouse,  where  we  saw  it  lying  on  the 
ground,  bound  by  strong  ship's  cables,  in  order  to 
restrain  its  roving  propensities.  Two  other  cannon, 
j)laced  to  the  right  and  left  of  the  entrance  to  this 
court,  and  known  as  Kemborawo  and  Kumborawy, 
were  cast  and  made  in  the  island. 

Our  ascent  of  the  watch-tower  was  very  easy, 
the  openings  in  the  walls  admitting  plenty  of  light 
to  guide  us  up  the  spiral  staircase  which  led  to 
the  cupola.  From  this  elevation  a  pretty  good 
view  of  the  country  beyond  Soerakarta  is  obtained. 
To  the  cast  stands  the  lofty  Lawoe,  said  by  the 
flavanese  "  to  be  seen  everywhere."  0]:)posite  are 
the  Marapi  and  Murbaboo,  and  beyond  the  lat- 
ter the  Sundoro,  in  the  fertile  province  of  Ma- 
gelang. 

On  some  of  the  towers  and  turrets  in  the 
Kraton    wave   the    roval  flac; — red  with  a  white 


MIRACULOUS  UMBRELLA.  83 

flower  in  the  centre.  The  names  of  the  pnncipal 
cannons  and  gates  of  this  fortification  are  thus  ar- 
ranged in  Javanese  rhyme.   . 

Cannons — • 
Kuniborawo. 
KumlJora^\7■. 
Sapu-jagat. 
N  gaisatomy. 

Gates — 

Brocljonolo. 

Mundunghan. 

Siripanganti 

.  The  sacredness  and  greatness  of  the  present 
Emperor  of  Java  was  foretokl,  as  they  assert,  in 
tlu'ir  reliiiious  books.  lie  is  also  said  to  be  the 
possessor  of  an  lunbrelUi  and  sword  of  wonch'ous 
powfr,  which  has  been  in  liis  family  for  genera- 
ti(jiis.  The  general  belief  is  that,  if  an  individual 
touches  either  of  these  with  an  impure  liautl,  he  is 
sure  to  g(j  mad  ! 

The  Javanese    had   an   ancieut   custom    of   jire- 
seuting  uinbrcllas  U)  their  chiefs  on   the    day   they 

G  2 


84  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

were  ])ublicly  installed  in  office,  a  custom  which 
the  Dutch  have  adopted,  or  rather  revived.  The 
workmanship  and  material  of  the  umbrella  differs 
accordino;  to  the  rank  of  the  official  to  whom  it  is 
presented.  Tims  the  state  umbrella  of  the  Resi- 
dent is  gilt  all  over ;  the  Regent's  all  but  a  small 
space  near  the  edge  ;  and  the  Wodono's  less  than 
the  Regent's.  Those  of  the  Pangerans,  Radens, 
and  princes  of  the  blood  are  stuck  upon  long  poles, 
and  are  always  held  over  their  heads  by  one  of 
their  suite  whenever  any  of  them  go  beyond  their 
own  grounds. 

Our  friends,  indcfatigalile  in  their  kind  atten- 
tions, and  anxious  that  we  should  see  all  that  was 
Avorth  seeing  during  our  stay,  took  us  afterwards 
to  the  house  of  the  ^lunko-Negoro,  which  we  had 
been  invited  to  visit.  This  dignitary's  estates  lie 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  Dutch  fort,  on  the  road 
to  Djokdja ;  and  his  house,  which  is  very  extensive, 
is  aj^proached  by  a  long  avenue,  beyond  which,  on 


THE  3;UXKO-NEGORO  S  APARTMEXTS.  85 

each  side,  are  the  houses  and  huts  of  liis  subordi- 
nates. The  sentinels  stationed  at  the  gate  presented 
arms  as  we  entered,  and,  as  we  droA'e  through  a 
hirge  couityard,  a  number  of  soldiers  Ijeat  their 
drums  on  our  approach.  At  the  same  time  four 
heralds  announced  our  arrival  with  the  sound  of 
the  trum])et. 

The  grounds,  ovtthouses,  and  yards  presented  a 
marked  contrast  to  the  interior  of  the  Kraton, 
being  kept  in  great  order  and  cleanliness.  We 
stopped  at  the  Pringitan,  where  we  were  hospitably 
received  by  the  Munko-Xegoro,  who,  after  a  little 
conversation,  conducted  us  into  his  ]vuma,  or 
aj)artnients,  separated  from  thePringitaii  merely  by 
a  screen. 

We  were  surprised,  on  cntei'ing,  at  the  loftiness 
(jf  the  I'ooms,  for  tlie  Javanese  generallv  delight  in 
low  ceiHng^,  and  have  no  objection  to  close  air. 
The  furniture  seemed  xcrx  ijood  and  solid,  most  of 
it,  I  understood,  of  European  manufacture.    Tberc 


8(5  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

Avere  many  articles  of  curiosity  and  vertu,  and  the 
Malls  Avere  hung  with  Dutch,  French,  and  English 
engravings. 

A  flight  of  steps  on  one  side  conducted  us  to  a 
platform,  leading  into  three  small  side-rooms, 
■which  are  only  made  use  of  on  the  occasion  of  a 
wedding.  The  centre  or  principal  one  is  appro- 
priated to  any  legitimate  male  or  female  child  of 
the  Munko-Xegoro  on  the  bridal  night,  whilst  the 
two  smaller  ones  are  for  his  children  by  bondays, 
or  concubines,  on  similar  occasions. 

From  this  room  we  were  conducted  by  a  side 
door  into  a  large  garden,  suiTOunded  by  two  low 
ranges  of  houses,  in  which  the  women  of  the 
seraglio,  with  their  children  and  attendants,  live. 
We  did  not  see  any  of  these  females,  however,  as 
they  arc  always  kc])t  in  seclusion,  only  the  one 
lawful  wife  being  ever  seen  in  public.  I  remarked 
in  the  garden  one  very  fine  Kamoony  tree,  the 
flower    of   which   is   white,    and    very    fragi'ant. 


THE  MUNKO-NEGORO.  87 

The  wood  is  used  in  Tringaiiu  for  sword  and  kriss 
hilts. 

After  partaking  of  tea  and  cakes,  we  all  walked 
across  the  court vard  to  see  the  Munko-Xe<i;oro"s 
coach-house.  The  men  in  the  yard  saluted  the 
prince  in  the  manner  before  described,  all  going 
down  on  their  knees  the  moment  they  observed  his 
approach.  They  also  retired  to  make  room  for  our 
j)arty,  crawling  away  to  what  they  considered  a 
respectful  distance,  and  then  resuming  their  up- 
right position. 

The  Munko-Xegoro,  like  all  Javanese,  not  only 
chewed  the  betel-nut,  but  also  disfigured  his  large 
mouth  with  the  ball  of  tobacco  between  the  under 
lip  and  the  gum.  His  sun,  wlujin  we  saw  at  the 
rece]iti(jn,  was  lic-re  with  his  father,  and  when  we 
ascended  the  Pringitun,  he  Irft  his  sandals  a  little 
ab<)\e  the  >t(in<'  stcj)s.  Some  of  the  ministers  and 
<)th<;r  courtiers  ])la<-cd  theirs  behind  tlid^e  of  the 
young    prince,     their    succession    being    arranged 


88  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

according  to  the  rank  of  each  individuaL  None 
hut  the  jNIunlvo-Negoro  wears  anything  on  the  feet 
whilst  walking  across  or  sitting  on  the  Pringitan; 
and,  unless  the  prince  makes  a  sign  to  that  effect, 
neither  the  son  nor  the  ministers  ever  think  of 
sitting  in  his  presence.  His  wife,  the  Tuan  Ratu, 
the  only  female  we  saw,  was  rather  good-looking, 
fairer  than  most  Javanese  women,  with  a  quantity 
of  jet-black  hair  and  very  small  hands.  When 
we  had  seen  all  that  was  calculated  to  interest  and 
amuse  us,  we  shook  hands  with  our  entertainers 
and  drove  off,  their  kind  wishes  of  a  slamat  jalan 
— "  pleasant  journey" — ringing  in  our  ears. 


CHAPTER  IV 


l;OAD  TO  DJODJOKAUTA — TIIi:  OLD  KUATOX — ClIAXOr;  OF  SMTA- 
TIf)N'  F.VEIIY  rKXTn;V — KL'IXS  OK  liUAMI'.AXAX — TEMPI.K  OF 
KALASSAX — TOWX  OF  D.IOKDJA — KIXl)  KKCFI'TIOX — BALL  AT 
THK  SrLTAX"s  FALACF — VISFf  OF  MY  WIFK  TO   TllF  SKHACLIO 

I'ASSAI;    (JFDDF THK    KLMOrOO    AMl',OL()F;0    COOXIX(;.    oi: 

YELLOW  VIF.OIXS — MYSTFUIOL'S  SLAIi — XLMKKOl'S  TKADITIOXS 
— TALK  OF  TYKAXXY — (.iEXEKOUS  SYMFATHY  OF  A  JAVAXESK 
filLL — FIS  KEWAUl). 


91 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Our  first  post  on  the  road  to  Djodjokarta  was 
Karta-soera,  named  from  tlie  first  old  Kraton,  the 
nuns  of  wliich,  but  a  short  distance  from  the  road, 
present  notliiu^  of  interest,  as  httle  remains  to  be 
seen  l)ut  k)\v  bare  walls.  It  was  a  custom  with 
Javanese  princes  to  change  the  situation  of  the 
royal  residence  every  hundred  years.  A  new 
Kraton  thus  awaited  the  whole  connnunity,  who 
made,  their  exodus  from  their  old  home,  carryin<T 
witli  them  all  the  woodun  materials  reipiisite  to 
erect  a  new  one  on  the  site  allotted  to  each. 

Some  wav  further  on  we  ])asst'd  a  kind  of  raised 
circus,  walled  in  l)y  nuid  mounds,  and  overgrown 
with   gi-ass.     In   this  place   the  ])rinces,   as  in  days 


92  LIFE  IX  JAVA. 

gone  by,  mount  their  ponies,  and  practise  the  use 
of  their  sundjata,  or  native  arms. 

At  the  sixtli  post  we  alighted  and  walked  to  see 
the  ruins  of  the  temples  of  Brambanan,  a  short 
way  off.  On  either  side  of  the  path,  which 
branches  off  from  the  main  road,  were  low 
pillars  at  equal  distances  from  each  other,  now  half 
buried  in  soil  and  rubbish,  but  which  must  at  one 
time  have  had  an  imposing  effect,  when  unbroken 
and  free  from  earth  and  debris.  This  path,  as  we 
soon  discovered,  must  have  been  ascended  origi- 
nally by  means  of  a  low  flight  of  steps,  which  have 
now  all  sunk  into  the  earth.  On  reaching  its 
tennination,  we  were  surprised  to  find  a  great 
number  of  buildings,  most  of  them  in  ruins, 
situated  on  a  plateau,  and  occupying  an  extensive 
space.  These  are  all  that  remain  of  the  temples, 
eight  in  number,  which  stood  in  a  circular  form, 
and  averaged  from  thirty  to  one  hundred  feet  in 
height.     The  two   situated    at   the  radius  of  the 


ANCIENT  TEMPLES.  93 

circle,  are  the  largest  of  the  group,  one  of  which 
is  known  us  the  temple  of  Larajonkgrang,  "  the 
pure  exalted  ^'irgin." 

Like  others  we  had  already  seen,  these  sacred 
buildings  are  built  of  hewn  trachyte,  and 
the  main  features  of  the  architecture  are  simple 
enougli.  Each  temple  stands  u])on  a  basement 
])rop()rtionate  to  its  size,  that  which  we  ascended 
being  from  six  to  seven  feet  from  the  ground. 
Niches  filled  with  fiL^res  are  arranged  on  each 
side,  and  elaborate  carvings  ornament  the  exterior 
in  eveiy  direction.  Four  great  flights  of  steps 
lea<l  to  this  basement,  from  wliich  smaller  ones 
<-onduct  to  fanes  standing  one  above  another,  the 
highest  surmounted  witli  a  supersti'ucture  Hke  a 
>\n;i]\  lower  or  jivramid. 

Entering  the  lir.-;  of  tliese  fanes,  we  found  a 
cliamlic!'  about  six  U-ni  sipiai'c,  with  a  pyramidally 
formed  roof,  about  twenty  feet  from  the  floor. 
The    figure   of    Durga,  or,   as   sht;    is   called   here, 


94  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

Larajonkgranf:^,  the  Minerva  of  the  ancient  Bud- 
dhists, is  cut  out  of  a  solid  block  of  stone. 
She  is  represented  in  a  standin^r  position,  with 
a  great  number  of  arms,  which,  like  branches,' 
spring  out  in  various  directions  from  the  body. 
On  her  head  is  a  crown,  and  round  her  neck 
and  waist  are  carved  chains  and  ornaments  of 
different  kinds. 

In  each  of  her  hands  she  holds  some  instrumnet, 
or  implement  of  defence,  transformation,  and  pro- 
tection. In  the  first,  to  the  right,  is  a  chakra,  or 
wheel,  supposed  to  have  small  mirrors  between  each 
of  the  spokes,  from  the  periphery  of  Avliich  issue 
flames  of  fire.  AVith  this  the  Javanese  say  she  could, 
like  Metra,  Neptune's  misti'css,  transform  herself 
and  others  into  whatever  shape  she  pleased.  The 
second  brandishes  a  sword,  the  third  a  paiiah,  or 
arrow,  renowned  for  swiftness  and  its  cfiicacy  in 
raising  the  dead  to  life.  The  first,  on  the  left, 
holds  an   object    called   a   clotoJc,    or    shell,    with 


CURIOUS  FIGURES.  95 

^Yinors  attached,  the  use  of  which  my  informant 
was  not  aware  of.  The  second  bears  a  shield, 
supposed  to  be  invulnerable,  as  well  as  pos- 
sessincT  the  property  of  concealing  anyone  from 
view. 

This  figure  stands  on  the  back  of  a  bull,  called 
Sapigumaran,  the  tail  of  which  the  goddess  holds 
with  one  of  her  right  hands,  while  with  the  corre- 
sponding one,  on  the  other  side,  she  clutches  the 
curly  locks  of  Mahesasura,  the  imp,  or  personifica- 
tion of  vice,  as  tliough  determined  to  holil  him  fast, 
spite  of  his  devilries. 

Ilenco  we  ascended  another  fliglit  of  ste])s,  and 
proceeding  in  a  circular  direction,  entered  a  second 
fane,  in  wliicli  we  recognized  our  old  friend  Siewah, 
tiic  ElepliantiiH'  deity  to  whom  we  were  introduced 

at  Singosiiri.       Mounting  a  few  more  spiral  steps, 

« 
we  came  to  another  of  these  small  ehaml)(.'rs,  at  the 

end  of  which  was  the   figure  of  a  man,  the  bright 

vellow  colouriniT  of  which  was  evidentlv  of  recent 


96  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

date.  His  upper  lip  and  cliin  being  furnished  with 
moustaches  and  beard,  and  his  left  ear  with  several 
ear-rings,  I  at  once  concluded  him  to  be  a  native  of 
India.  From  his  neck  hangs  a  chain  of  large 
beads,  which  he  is  apparently  in  the  act  of  count- 
ing with  his  right  hand.  Resting  against  the  breast 
of  the  figure  is  a  kind  of  switch,  very  similar  to 
those  I  have  frequently  seen  carried  by  Bengalees 
in  Calcutta  to  keep  the  flies  off.  He  wears  a  coni- 
cal shaped  hat,  and  has  a  trident  behind  him,  the 
meaning  of  which  I  could  not  understand.  This 
figure  is  known  as  Kihaibudor,  and  is  much 
venerated  by  the  Javanese,  who,  in  consequence  of 
his  having  been  the  first  convert  to  Islamism  in  the 
island,  and  very  zealous  in  converting  others  to  the 
faith,  come  here  in  great  numbers  to  make  vows. 
The  steps  leading  to  another  fane  still  higher  up 
were  so  broken,  and  the  chamber  itself  appeared  so 
full  of  stones,  &c.,  which  had  fallen  in  from  the 
roof,  that  it  was  impossible  to  enter  it. 


TEMPLE  OF  KALASSAX.  97 

From  this  elevation  we  had  a  fine  view  of  tlie 
surrounding  country,  and  of  the  temples  and 
ruins  below  us.  Opposite  to  that  in  which  we 
stand,  is  the  one  next  in  size.  Near  tlie  road 
leading  to  Chundevsewu,  a  large  space  of  ground 
is  covered  with  temples  and  several  tanks.  On 
a  clear  day  the  tower  of  Chundeysewu  is  dis- 
tinctly visible,  being  only  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
distant.  It  is  situated  amidst  a  plantation  of  trees, 
and  is  differently  ct)nstructed  from  the  buildings  of 
IJrandjanan.  Its  ])rinci[)al  entrance  is  guarded  by 
two  enormous  figures  in  stone,  holding  sw(jrds  in 
tlieir  hands,  and  \ery  much  like  the  large  cnies  we 
saw  at  Siiigosari. 

About  a  luile  fi'ttiii  Urandjanan  we  ])ass('d  the 
temple  of  Kalassaii,  a  large,  solid-looking  building, 
with  four  ]ii-iiicipal  entrances,  and  niches  for 
figuro  ou  both  sides.  The  chandlers  within  are 
vei'ydark  and  gloomy,  and  the  figures  in  them  few 
and    insignificant.      The   temple  is  situated    in    the 

vol..   II.  H 


98  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

middle  of  rice  and  cane  plantations,  and,  unlike 
Brambanan,  mortar  has  been  used  to  cement  the 
trachyte  together.  The  tower  is  A^ery  much 
dilapidated,  and  in  many  parts  the  ruins  are 
overgrown  by  weeds,  grass,  and  shrubs. 

Between  the  seventh  station  and  Djokdja,  we 
jiass  Gavan,  the  country-retreat  of  the  Sultan, 
which,  until  six  years  ago,  was  the  annual  place  of 
interview  between  him  and  his  "  elder  brother," 
the  Susuhunan.  They  came  in  great  pomp  and 
state,  and,  following  an  old-established  custom,  the 
younger  sovereign  sat  on  the  ground,  and,  after  a 
short  preliminary  ceremonial  had  been  gone 
through,  approached  the  throne  without  his  sandals, 
knelt,  and  paid  homage,  or  honnaht,  to  the  "ob- 
ject of  adoration."  As  these  interviews  drew  a 
large  number  of  peo])le  together,  the  Dutch  thought 
it  expedient  to  discontinue  them  ;  and,  in  order  to 
reconcile  the  Sultan  to  this,  represented  to  him 
that,  so  long  as  a  prince  rendered  homage  to  another. 


DJOKDJA.  99 

neither  lie  nor  his  subjects  could  be  considered  by 
Europeans  truly  independent.  On  the  next  occa- 
sion the  ceremony  was  discontinued. 

On  the  day  appointed,  the  Susuhunan  was  sur- 
})rised  to  find  the  Sultan,  contrary  to  all  precedent, 
dressed  in  military  uniform,  and  seated  on  a  chaii" 
next  to  his  throne,  from  which  he  neither  seemed 
inclined  to  move,  nor  indicated  the  slig'htest  inten- 
tion of  repeating  what  he  now  regarded  as  most 
humiliating  to  one  of  his  dignity.  Although  the 
superior  prince  at  first  felt  insulted  beff)re  the 
I'ves  of  his  ])eople,  he  soon  wisely  reconciled  him- 
self to  the  necessary  change,  an<l  entered  into  con- 
versation witli  those  near  him  as  if  nothing  to 
ti'(»ubl(!  him  had  occurred.  Tlie  friendly  mectino-s 
of  the  two  so\-ereigns.  which  had  been  looked  foi-- 
wai'd  to  each  \cai-  by  their  subjects  as  a  day  ot  I'e- 
joiciiig  and  ))leaMire.  were  thus  brought  to  an  end. 

Fi\-e  miles  furtlu'r  ti'a\('lliiig  bi-oiiglit  us  to  the 
town  of  Jidsja,  wliieh    tlie   Duteh  write  with    a    1), 

H   -1 


100  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

to  accommodate  the  name  to  their  pronunciation. 
Driving  up  to  the  house  of  Mr.  Z ,the  Assistant- 
Resident,  ^vllo  had  so  kindly  invited  us  when  on 
board  the  OenarcuKj,  we  met  witli  a  reception  wliich 
dehghted  us  by  its  warmth  and  cordiahty. 

His  house  was  buiU,  in  the  interior,  somewhat 
after  the  Pompeian  style.  Several  massive  pillars 
which  su})ported  the  roof  divided  the  hall  into  a 
nave  and  side  aisles.  Two  doors  on  each  side  led 
from  this  into  a  large,  roofed  court,  in  the  centre 
of  which  was  a  small  garden  of  choice  flowers, 
with  an  opening  in  the  roof  to  admit  light  and 
moisture.  Hound  this  court  were  the  private 
aj)artments,  all  lofty,  and  admirably  adapted  to  a 
warm  climate. 

Djokdja,  which  has  a  native  population  of  three 
hundred  thousand  souls,  is  laid  out  very  much  like 
Soerakarta,  the  principal  street  having  the  great 
sanitary  ad\antage  of  rills  of  clear  water  running- 
down  botli  sides  of  it. 


THE  KRATOX.  101 

The  Kraton,  and  most  of  the  princely  residences, 
are  situated  some  distance  from  the  town.  As  our 
friends  were  £^oin^  to  a  ball  at  the  Sultan's  the 
evening  of  our  arrival,  thev  kindlv  pressed  us  to 
accompany  them.  "We  accepted  the  invitation, 
and  drove  to  tlie  Pondopo  in  the  Kraton,  where 
a  hand  was  plavinn;.  From  thence  we  walked  to 
the  reception  liall,  which  was  gaily  decorated,  and 
brilliant  with  illuminations.  This  hall,  like  the 
Pringitans  T  ha\'e  1)ef()re  described,  was  raised 
some  steps  from  the  ground,  and  open  on  three 
sides,  the  fourth  being  attached  to  his  majesty's 
dwelling-jiouse.  Chairs  were  placed  all  I'ouud  for 
the  eoiivenieiice  of  the  daneeivs  when  fatigued,  and 
at  thf  .-ill"  ni';ir  the  Kuma  a  Persian  I'ug  was  laid 
down,  and  some  moi'e  costK-looklni!;  ehaiivs  foi'  the 
Suha!!,  hi-  wiff,  th(.'  iiesident,  and  some  of  the 
Snhan's  relations. 

Ills  majestv  )•■■!•. 'ixed  us  vcrv  coui'tcoush-  on 
being    iuti'uduced    In'    Mi'.   Z .     '^I'he  evening 


102  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

passed  off  in  dancing  and  card-playing,  the  Sultan 
taking  no  part  in  the  former  amusement,  but  en- 
tering heartily  into  the  game  of  vist,  for  which  he 
has  quite  a  passion. 

As  the  lamps  were  all  of  a  veiy  primitive  de- 
scription, they  required  trimming  afresh  every  two 
or  three  hours.  On  account  of  the  presence  of 
royalty,  this  simple  operation  was  performed  with 
forms,  the  novelty  of  wdiich  afforded  us  much  amuse- 
ment. Two  men,  naked  to  the  waist,  approached  the 
gay  scene,  one  bearing  a  short  ladder,  the  other  a 
small  lamp.  Pausing  a  few  yards  from  the  Pringitan, 
they  made  obeisance  to  the  ]-oyal  seat,  which  at  the 
moment  was  vacant,  its  usual  occupant  being 
deeply  engaged  in  his  rubber.  After  bowing  three 
times  nearly  to  the  ground,  they  raised  their  two 
hands  to  their  face  in  the  manner  I  have  previ- 
ously described. 

Ascending  the  steps,  the  same  ceremony  was 
cone  through  a  second   time.     The  man  bearing 


CURIOUS  ACTS  OF  OBEISx\.XCE.  103 

the  ladder  then  placed  it  before  the  first  lamp,  and 
his  companion  put  the  light  on  the  top  step.  Now, 
thought  I,  they  will  certainly  proceed  with  the 
business  in  hand.  But  no  ;  more  yet  remained  to 
be  done.  Turning  their  faces  to  the  empty  chair, 
they  knelt,  bowed,  and  elevated  their  hands.  One 
of  them  finally  ascended  the  ladder,  which  was 
held  for  him  by  the  other,  and,  while  actually 
trinuning  the  lamp,  repeated  the  same  forms  Avliich 
had  l)een  already  more  than  once  observed.  On 
descending,  they  went  through  a  similar  series  of 
genufiexions,  &c.,  before  removing  the  ladder  and 
light  to  the  next  lamp.  These  obeisances,  with  all 
the  mechanical  patience  of  automatons,  they  re- 
])eated  until  the  tedious  work  was  done,  when  they 
retired  Itackwards,  saluting  the  unconscious 
monarcli. 

As  no  iiiaii  except  tlie  Stdtan  Is  j)ennitted  witli- 
in  the  ])reciiicts  of  the  seraglio,  I  will  here  insert  a 
descrij)tion  from  the  j)en  of  my  wife,  who,  by   the 


104  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

kindness  of  ^frs.  Z ,  was  enabled  to  see  and 

converse  with  tliese  Javanese  houries. 

In  a  low  kind  of  bungalow,  some  distance  from 
the  main  building,  not,  however,  so  far  off  but  that 
we  could  distinctly  hear  the  sounds  of  music  and 
mirth  from  the  joyous  scene  we  had  just  left,  were 
assembled  several  women,  mostly  very  young,  and 
all  dressed  in  a  costly  native  fashion.  Some  of 
the  party  were  playing  a  Chinese  game  of  cards. 
All  looked  up  on  our  entrance,  but  soon  resumed 
their  occupation,  alternately  playing,  chewing 
tobacco,  betel,  and  seri  leaf,  and  using  their 
s])ittoons,  one  of  which  was  placed  by  the  side  of 
each  person. 

Most  of  them  were  good-looking,  witli  magnifi- 
cent dai'k  eyes,  drooping  lids,  and  long,  curling 
lashes.  They  make  use  of  an  immense  quantity  of 
powder,  which,  though  very  glaring,  probably  tends 
to  heighten  their  charms.  Their  hair  was  dressed 
with  care,  being  all  drawn  back  from  the  face  and 


JAVANESE  BEAUTY.  105 

ari'anged  in  two  loops  iDcliind,  in  wliicli  cliumpaka 
and  niolor  flowers  wore  inserted  by  some,  whilst 
others  wore  diamond  pins.  The  ear  v/as  made 
unnaturally  large  by  immense  ear-rings,  in  shape 
exactly  like  a  small  cotton  reel,  about  the  l^ize  of  one 
of  Clarke's  number  sixty,  the  centre  of  each  end 
being  studded  with  brilliants.  The  large  lioles 
through  which  these  singular  ornaments  were  thrust 
are  bored  at  a  very  tender  age,  and  the  apertures 
are  filled  from  time  to  time  with  gradua.lly  larger 
and  heavier  ear-rings,  until  the  lobes  finally  become 
so  unnaturally  elongated. 

Unfortunately  the  beauty  of  the  Javanese  in 
general  is  spoilt  by  the  ])revalence  of  1)ad  noses. 
Jt  is  very  rai'clv  one  comes  aci'oss  a  good  nose,  but 
when  that  fe;itun'  is  jx'rfcct,  th''  face  is  u'^ually 
jirctty,  |ii'ovii|o(I  al\va\'s  th''  uioutli  is  ke])t  closed, 
foi",  Iroiii  the  constant  u-e  of  seri-L^imbier  tobacco, 
e'vc.,  theli-  tieth  iiW.  x'ei'v  black.  '^{"his  unfortu- 
nately is  coiisidei'ed  a  ln'autw      In  children,  of  thii'- 


106  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

teen  or  fourteen,  you  see  frequently  beautiful  teeth, 
like  rows  of  pearls,  either  undergoing,  or  about  to 
undergo,  this  disfiguring  process. 

Amidst  the  group  before  us,  I  was  most  struck 
by  a  very  young  girl,  whose  age,  I  thought  could 
not  exceed  twelve  or  thirteen,  and  from  whose  face, 
though  she  appeared  thoughtful,  silent,  and  sad, 
the  childish  look  had  not  yet  disappeared.     Who 
know  but  that  the  instinct  of  her  heart  already  told 
her  a  better  destiny  might  have  been  hers  than 
that  to  which  she  was  probably  devoted.     She  was 
doubtless  intended  to  be  the  new  toy  of  a  middle- 
aged  monarch,  and  althougli  she  might  revolt  against 
her  lot,  she  could  do  nothing  to  change  it.  She  was 
her  master's   property  until  he  tired  of  her,  and 
sought  new  charms.  Most  of  them,  however,  looked 
cheerful  and  happy,  and  I  was  told,  by  one  who 
knew  many  of  them  personally,  that  they  are  gene- 
rally content  with  their   lot,  being  allowed  no  end 
of  finery  and  silly  amusements.     Tiu-ning  to  look 


TASSAR  GEUDAY.  107 

at  the  numerous  birds,  Avliich  hung  in  cages  around, 
I  could  not  help  thinking  how  true  was  the  com- 
parison which  likened  these  captive  minstrels  to  the 
])oor  prisoners  who  attend  to  and  pet  them. 

Next  moi'ning  wo  went  to  see  Passar  Gedday, 
the  Kraton  built  by  Senopati  Wongologo,  contrary 
to  the  command  of  the  Sultan  of  Padjang.  Little 
now  remains  of  this  once  famous  place,  save  the 
Kobooran,  or  cemeterv,  consisting  of  several  courts 
surrounded  by  turreted  -walls.  The  gateways 
leadiuij;  to  each  of  these  courts  still  retain  some  of 
their  old  stone  car\  ings.  In  the  third  court  there  is 
a  large  house,  where  most  of  the  princes  who  re- 
sided in  the  Kraton  have  been  interred.  From 
this  we  passed  through  a  smaller  one,  cahed  Seli- 
ran,  where  we  saw  tombs  on  terraces  rising  like  a 
series  of  ste[»s.  Descending  from  these  we  reached 
a  small  scpiare  tank,  cf)vered  t)ver  with  a  tile  roof, 
in  which  there  were  numbers  of  l)laf:k  fish,  similar 
to  the  Simbilang  of  Singa])ore,  called,  by  the  Java- 


108  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

nese,  Lalay.  Their  sting  is  very  venomous,  but 
they  are  nevertheless  very  good  eating.  Our  object 
in  coming  to  this  tank,  however,  was  not  to  see  the 
fish,  but  some  curious  white  turtles,  for  which  the 
natives  have  a  great  veneration. 

The  Avoman  who  attends  to  the  place  asked  us 
if  we  would  try  our  luck,  to  which  we  readily 
assented.  She  accordingly  despatched  a  girl  for 
some  raw  meat,  and  on  her  return,  fastening  a  lai'ge 
piece  to  the  end  of  a  long  stick,  she  leaned  over 
the  water,  and  mimiljled  a  few  words,  amongst 
which  we  distinguished,  "  Kiaidudo  amboloro 
coordug  " — meaning  "  the  yellow  virgins."  Recol- 
lections of  the  lake  at  Gratie  came  before  us,  and 
expecting  a  similar  result,  we  were  agreeably  sur- 
prised when  we  saw  ere  long  a  large  white  turtle, 
about  two  feet  long,  rise  nearly  to  the  surface, 
place  her  fore  paws  against  tlie  side,  and  raise  her 
head  high  enough  to  reach  the  tempting  morsel, 
which  she  seemed  thoroughly  to  appreciate. 


STORY  OF  A  EUROPEAN  SAILOR.  109 

I  was  anxious  to  obtain  a  couple  of  young 
ones,  but  was  told  that,  on  account  of  their 
sacretl  character,  they  were  never  sold.  !Miss 
Z ,  our  kind  host's  daughter,  however,  suc- 
ceeded in  ])ersuadinf:;  the  old  woman  to  ])ro- 
cure  a  l)air,  which  she  promised  to  bring  to  the 
house. 

Retracing  our  ste})s  out  of  the  Kobooran,  we 
were  shown  an  old  portion  of  the  Kraton,  where, 
under  the  shade  of  a  large  old  Verengen  tree,  I 
saw  a  slab  of  black  stone,  raised  a  foot  from  the 
ground,  and  about  a  yard  and  a  half  long  by  one 
wide — the  object  of  which,  from  its  strange  situa- 
tion, and  the  inscription  upon  it,  1  felt  curious  to 
know.  In  answer  to  m\-  intpiiries,  1  was  told  that 
a  I'hu'()pcan  sailor  who  was  shij)wrecked  on  this 
coast  had  brtii  cliaint'd  to  this  stt)iu'  b\-  ordei"  of 
the  Snltan  oi  Matarram.  "^Die  reasons  given  for 
this  poor  mans  punishment  were  nunurous  ;  hut 
troni    a  curious  inscription  in  several  languages,  it 


110  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

would  appear  that  lie  was  a  linguist — a  qualifica- 
tion which  suggested  to  me  the  idea  that  he  might 
possibly  have  been  some  missionary  whose  religious 
zeal  had  excited  the  suspicion  or  hostility  of  the 
higher  Javanese  powers. 

To  judge  from  the  impression  on  the  slab,  I 
fancy  he  must  have  found  a  sedentary  position 
the  most  comfortable,  for  the  hard  stone  in 
one  part  is  hollowed  out  like  the  floor  of  Cliil- 
lon — "as  if  the  cold  pavement  were  a  sod." 
The  length  of  chain  allowed  him,  according  to 
all  appearance,  must  have  been  very  short. 

Some  of  the  stories  related  by  the  natives  about 
this  poor  victim,  though  vague  and  uncertain,  are 
worth  repeating.  One  is  to  the  effect  that  the 
sailor,  when  brought  before  the  then  reigning 
Sultan,  refused  to  humble  himself  by  bending  his 
knees  and  paying  homage  to  him — an  act  whicli 
so  incensed  the  tyrannical  monarch  that  he  at  once 
ordered  him  to  leave  his  presence,  and  afterwards 


DIFFERENT  ACCOUNTS.  Ill 

coiidemiicd  liim  to  bo  chained  for  life  to  that 
stone. 

A  more  particuhir  account — for  wliich  I  am  in- 
debted to  Drahman,  Avho  gleaned  the  particulars 
from  some  of  the  old  natives  of  that  locality 
—makes  it  appear  that,  two  or  three  hundred 
years  ago,  a  vessel  having  been  wrecked  off  the 
coast  of  Djodjokarta,  the  whole  of  the  crew  were 
lost  except  this  man,  who  was  picked  up  half  dead 
on  the  shore  by  some  fishermen,  who  took  him  to 
one  of  their  huts,  and  succeeded  in  restoring  him 
to  hfe. 

The  news  that  a  wliite  man  had  been  found 
under  such  mclunclioly  circumstances  soon  spread 
t"ai'  aixl  wide,  and  uiuubfi's  flocked  to  the  lisher- 
niaii's  hut,  in  order  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  a  siglit 
more  uncommon  in  those  days  than  ikjw.  The 
Sidtan  of  MatariMiii  who  then  reigui'd  was  a  very 
cruel,  suspicions,  and  despotic  man.  Hearing  of 
the  cui'iositv  nianife-^ted  l)v  tlie    natives,   and   fear- 


112  LIFE  IX  JAVA. 

in<T  that  the  strano'er  mio-lit  in  time  ijain  an  in- 
fluence  over  tlie  minds  of  his  superstitious  sub- 
jects, he  issued  a  command  that  the  sailor  should, 
\vithout  dehiy,  be  conveyed  to  his  Kraton.  This 
order  was  at  once  obeyed,  and  no  sooner  was  the 
poor  man  in  his  power  than  lie  had  him  chained  to 
the  black  stone,  giving  it  out  that  he  Avas  a  kind  of 
sea-spirit  of  ill-omen,  who,  to  deceive  them,  had 
taken  the  form  of  a  white  man.  At  the  same  time 
he  issvied  a  proclamation  to  the  effect  that  whoever 
approached  the  prisoner  after  dusk  should  be 
severely  punished. 

At  first  a  couple  of  sentinels  were  placed  over 
him  by  night  and  da}' ;  but  the  unfortunate  man 
conducted  himself  so  quietly,  and  seemed  so  resigned 
to  his  fate,  that,  after  a  few  months,  this  guard 
was  dispensed  with,  and  he  was  left  to  pass  his 
nights  and  days  in  solitude,  the  fear  witli  which 
the  Sultan  inspired  all  his  subjects  being  so  great, 
and  their  belief  in  his  assertion  that  the  man   was 


THE  JAVANESE  GIRL.  113 

possessed  by  an  evil  spirit  so  assured,  that  no 
native  who  could  avoid  it  would  pass  by  that  way 
after  dark. 

There  was  one,  however,  in  whose  breast  the 
stranger's  forlorn  condition  awakened  feelings  of 
sorrow  and  pity.  This  was  a  young  girl,  who,  by 
signs,  managed  to  make  the  captive  aware  of  her 
commiseration,  which  she  further  showed  by 
stealthily  bringing  him  such  delicacies,  in  the 
shape  of  fruit  or  food,  as  her  slender  purse  enabled 
her  to  procure,  and,  for  the  protection  of  his  limbs 
from  tiie  night  dews,  sup[)lying  him  with  a  sarong, 
which  he  kept  carefully  concealed  beneath  some 
leaves  Ijy  day. 

A  year  or  more  elapsed,  and,  the  feeling  of 
sympathy  which  first  actuafed  the  girl  beginning 
to  ripen  into  the  deeper  and  more  absorbing  one 
of  love,  slic  conceivcfl  the  daring  ])roject  of  setting 
her  lover  free.  Choosing  hci-  oppoi'tiinity,  she 
coiiuiuinicited     her    ideas    to    liim.      Longing    foi' 

VOL.   H.  I 


z^.- 


114  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

libertj',  he  entered  lieartily  into  all  her  schemes, 
without  reflecting  on  the  risk  to  which  the  devoted 
girl  was  ex})osing  herself.  She  accordingly  sup- 
plied him  with  a  file,  and  a  small  quantity  of  wax, 
mixed  with  some  dark  adhesive  substance,  the  ob- 
ject of  which  will  presently  be  seen. 

In  the  dead  of  night,  when  all  around  were 
hashed  in  sleep,  the  poor  prisoner,  roused  to  energy 
by  this  ray  of  hope,  set  to  work  to  file  the  chains 
wliich  encircled  his  ankles,  working  by  fits  and 
starts,  in  order  that  the  sounds,  if  heard  by  a 
chance  passer-by,  might  be  regarded  as  the  buzz  or 
whirr  of  some  iusect  or  night  bird.  Each  night, 
after  he  had  done  working,  having  rubbed  the  pre- 
])ared  Avax  into  the  palms  of  his  hands,  he  filled  the 
groove  he  had  made,  thus  escaping  detection  by 
daylight. 

When,  at  last,  the  chains  were  ground  down  so 
fine  that  the  slightest  ])ressure  would  release  his 
feet,    a    night    was   arranged  for  their  hazardous 


ESCAPE  OF  THE  PRISONER.  115 

undertaking,  and  the  young  girl  promised  to  bring 
two  krisses — one  for  him,  and  the  other  for  her- 
self. 

Silently,  but  -with  a  heart  full  of  joy,  the  cap- 
tive broke  asunder  the  now  slender  link  of 
his  chain,  and  the  fragments  fell  to  the  ground 
with  a  crash  which  made  him  tremble  lest  he  had 
been  too  precipitate.  But  the  sound  died  away, 
and  the  unbroken  silence  of  night  succeeded. 
When  he  felt  once  more  secure,  he  fell  at  the  feet 
of  his  deliverer  and  poured  forth  his  gratitude  fur 
her  generous  aid;  bnt  she,  knowing  the  necessity 
for  haste,  bade  him  be  sik'Ut,  and  taking  his  hand, 
prepared  to  leave  the  spot.  Iler  anxiety  for  his 
safety,  however,  made  her  st()[)  suddenly  at  tiie 
rustling  of  some  branches  behind  them;  hut  hei' 
feai's  were  s(joii  allayed  by  tlie  siglit  of  a  mot^'^ang 
Of  wild  cat  running  j)ast  them,  an  object  wiiich 
the  girl,  in  her  superstitious  fancy,  regarded  as  a 
good  omen.      Hastening  by  circuitous   routes   and 

I  '2 


116  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

lonely  paths,  they  left  the  town,  and  made  the 
best  of  their  way  to  the  unfrequented  parts  of  the 
country. 

Great   was    the   excitement    that   prevailed   in 
Djodjokarta  next  morning  Avhen  it  was  discovered 
that  the  white  man   had   escaped,   no  one  could 
imagine  how  or  whither.     The  Sultan,  on  hearing 
of  hi?  flight,  was  greatly  enraged,  and  despatched 
his    ministers    and    officers  in    search    of    him ; 
but    all   returned   to  the  Kraton  without   having 
been  able  to  obtain  a  single  clue,  and  the  Sultan 
was  at  his  wits'  end  what  course  tQ  pursue.     A 
native  of  the  town  at  length  brought  the  intelli- 
gence that  the  escaped  prisoner  had  been  seen  in 
the  suburbs  with  a  Javanese   girl.     The  parents 
of  the  young  woman   were   immediately  sent  for 
and  questioned,  but  they  were  as  ignorant  of   the 
circumstances  as   all  present ;    their  daughter  not 
having  been  at   home  during   the  morning.     As 
it  was  her  habit,  however,  to  bathe  in  the  river 


PURSUIT  OF  THE  FUGITIVES.  117 

with  lier  companions,  frequently  absenting  herself 
from  home  for  lioui's,  they  had  not  had  the 
slightest  suspicion  or  uneasiness  until  sent  for  by 
the  Sultan.  Findin*f  that  no  information  could  be 
gained  from  these  poor  people,  they  were  dismissed 
with  a  sharp  reprimand  for  not  having  kept  a 
better  watch  on  their  child. 

The  Sultan  now  despatched  horsemen  in  all 
directions,  with  orders  to  scour  the  country,  and 
bring  back  the  fugitives,  alive  or  dead.  But  the 
utmost  efforts  of  the  messengers  proved  fruit- 
less, so  cautiously  had  the  lovers  planned  their 
movements,  always  taking  the  ])recaution  to  rest 
l)y  day  in  some  dark  forest,  and  })ursue  their 
journey  by  night,  until  they  were  fairly  beyond 
the  confines  of  the  kingdom  of  ^Matarram.  After 
this  tliiy  proccede'd  more  oi)eidy  till  they  reached 
the  town  of  JJantam,  before  the  Sultan  of  which 
thiy  presented  themselves  with  the  story  of  the 
cruelty  and  tyranny  of  which   tlu'  jxjoi-  sailor  had 


118  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

been  the  victim.  The  Sultan  readily  took  up  the 
European's  cause,  granted  him  and  his  wife  pro- 
tection, allowed  them  full  liberty  to  trade,  and  in 
a  few  years  the  once  destitute  sailor  became  an 
influential  man. 

Whether  this  account  be  true,  or  whether,  as 
others  assert,  he  dragged  on  a  weary  existence  as 
a  captive,  and  died  on  the  veiy  slab  to  which  he 
had  been  for  so  many  years  chained,  it  is  im- 
possible now  to  say;  but  from  the  fact  of  the 
European  characters  inscribed  on  the  stone,  there 
can  be  no  doubt  that  there  is  some  truth  in  the 
tradition  that  a  native  of  Europe  had  thus  cruelly 
suffered. 


CHAPTER  V. 


THE  POURWORAJO  KRATOX — PALACK  OF  ARDJOWINAGONG — 
LARGE  SERAGLIO — ANECDOTES  OF  OL'R  TURTLES — A  VISFf  TO 
TAMANSARIE,  OR  CHATEAU  I/EAU — TlIE  SPRING  TANK  OF 
SIRAMAN  —  COOL  RE(iUEST  —  THE  PASSAR  —  MELANCHOLY 
DEATH  OF  A  lilUVE  YOUNG  ENGLISH  OFFICER — FEMALE 
REVENGE — CURIOUS  CONTRIVANCE — TREACHER0T:S  HOSPI- 
TALITY—  SWISS  CONSPIRACY — A  MYSTERIOUS  FOOT — AN  EVE- 
NING AT  THE  TUMUX<iONG  MERTONEGORO'S — ROMANTIC  SCENE 
— WE  ARE  ENTERTAINED  AT  PAKOE-ALAM'S — WAR  DANCES — 
CLIMATE  AND  PRODUCE  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 


121 


CHAPTER  V. 

About  two  or  three  miles  from  the  last  Kraton 
we  readied  another,  built  by  the  grandfather  of  the 
present  Sultan,  and  known  as  Pourworajo,  or  "  the 
conunencement  of  prosperity  ;"  though  now,  from 
havinff  been  Ion";  uninhabited  and  nefjlected,  it 
presents  an  appearance  totally  at  variance  with  the 
name  originally  given  to  it.  It  is  quite  melancholy 
to  see  the  long  avenues,  once  planted  so  regularly 
with  fine  tall  trees,  almost  choked  up  with  shrubs 
and  saplings  ;  the  footpaths,  formerly  well  tended, 
green  with  grass,  moss,  and  rank  weeds ;  the  ter- 
races, balustrades,  and  ornamental  stone-work,  now 
broken  and  dilaj)idated,  crumbling  under  the  "brazen 
hands  of  time."       JJeyond  the  fact  of  its  l)eing  a 


122  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

ruin,  there  is  little  or  nothing  of  interest  connected 
with  the  place,  nothing  to  claim  more  than  a  pass- 
ing glance  from  the  traveller.  Ardjowinagong 
(signifying  "  the  re-establishment  of  good  fortune") 
a  large  palace,  two  miles  further  on,  is  Avell 
deserving  of  a  visit.  It  is  situated  near  a  river, 
which  we  had  to  cross  in  order  to  see  the  building. 
The  stream  is  called  by  the  singular  name  of  Gajah- 
orang,  or  "  elephant  and  man,"  the  origin  of  which 
is  explained  by  the  following  legend  : — 

A  man  was  once  engaged  in  bathing  an  elephant 
in  the  river,  when  a  friend,  passing  by  on  the  oppo- 
site bank,  stopped  to  have  a  few  moments'  conver- 
sation ;  during  the  course  of  which  the  man  who 
was  washing  the  animal  remarked  to  his  comrade 
how  shallow  the  stream  was,  so  shallow  that  it  was 
impossible  for  such  a  large,  powerful  beast  as  the 
elephant  to  be  drowned  in  it.  Scarcely,  however, 
were  the  words  out  of  his  mouth,  when  the  waters 
began  to  swell  rapidly,  and  before  the  man  and  his 


TALACE  OF  ARDJOWIXAGOXG.  123 

gajali  could  gain  the  bank,  they  were  swept  away 
by  the  force  of  the  stream  and  drowned. 

The  frrounds  about  the  pahice  of  Ardjowinagont]; 
have  been  very  tastefully  laid  out.  Fountains, 
ornamental  tanks,  artificial  streams,  flights  of  steps, 
and  pillars  abound  on  all  sides,  though  now  in 
many  parts  broken  and  gone  to  decay  from  time 
and  neglect. 

The  entrance  to  the  palace  is  across  two  large 
courts,  the  first  of  which  is  called  TJmbohl,  from  a 
spring  bubbling  in  the  centre  of  a  pond.  The  in- 
terior of  the  building  reminded  me  somewhat  of  a 
monastery.  Except  a  few  large  rooms  on  the  ground 
floor,  the  apartments,  of  which  the  nixmber  is 
cf>nsidt'rable,  are  very  small.  The  two  wings,  or 
towers,  are  covered  with  creepers  and  parasites, 
which  extend  their  green  covering,  also,  over  part 
of  the  main  buildinir. 

I  could  not  ascertain  exactly  by  whom  this  |)alace 
was  buiU,  but   I    was  told  that  the  Sultan  who  oc- 


124  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

cupied  it  for  some  time  was  the  possessor  of  no  less 
tliau  two  hundred  concubines  ;  and  I  think  it  is  not 
improbable  that  the  same  personage  ordered  and 
planned  the  erection,  as  the  great  number  of  small 
rooms  would  seem  to  favour  the  idea  that  the 
building,  when  inhabited,  was  occupied  by  an 
unusually  numerous  household. 

On  our   return  to  the  house  of  Mr.  Z ,  I 

found  that  the  old  woman  had  brought  the  turtles, 
and  consigned  them  to  the  keej)ing  of  Drahman, 
who,  on  seeing  me,  said, 

"It  is  quite  useless,  sir,  attempting  to  keep 
these." 

"  Why?"  replied  I ;  "  won't  they  stand  the  jour- 
ney?" 

"  Oh,  yes,"  he  answered,  looking  very  grave  ; 
"  that  would  not  signify ;  but  what  I  mean,  sir,  is, 
they  will  not  stay — it  is  their  habit  always  to  return 
to  the  place  they  are  taken  from." 

Thinking  the  man  was  only  trying  to  dissuade 


ESCAPE  OF  THE  TURTLES.  125 

me  from  taking  them,  in  order  to  save  himself  the 
trouble  of  attending  to  them  on  the  road,  I  merely 
added — 

^'  Well,  never  mind,  put  them  in  a  tub,  we  will 
try." 

And  with  a  good-natured  smile  at  what  he 
considered  my  incredulity,  he  went  in  search  of  an 
earthen  pot,  in  which,  half  filling  it  with  water,  he 
left  the  young  turtles  to  swim  at  pleasure. 

While  we  were  sipping  our  chocolate,  about  six 
next  morning,   a   knock   was  heard    at   the    door. 

"  Come  in,''  1  said;  and  in  walked  Drahman. 
''  Well,  Drahman,  what  is  it  you  have  to  say?''  said 
I,  ])crceiving  I)y  his  face  that  he  considered  himself 
to  be  the  Ix-arer  of  some  iinj)()rtant  information. 

"  They  are  gone,  sir! — they  are  off!  They'll  be 
home  again  by  this  time;  you  know,  sir,  I  said  so," 

"  Oil!  the  turtlc>,"  n'j)lied  1,  guessing  wliat  he 
meant.  ''  ^^  iiy,  how  did  they  go?  Let  me  see — it 
lias  been  raining  all   night,   lias   it  not?      Did  you 


126  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

cover  the  vessel  they  were  in,  or  bring  tlieni  into 
the  house  ?" 

"  No,  sir,  you  never  told  me  to  do  so." 

"Tlien,  that  is  why  they  are  gone,  Drahman," 
said  I,  h\ughing,  in  spite  of  my  disappointment,  at 
his  superstitious  notions ;  "  the  water  rose  as  it 
rained,  and  the  vessel  once  full  their  escape  was 
very  easy." 

"I  never  thought  of  that;"  said  Drahman,  retir- 
ing from  the  room  without  that  triumphant  ex- 
pression on  his  face  which  it  had  worn  when  he 
entered. 

Through  the  kindness  of  my  friends  I  obtained 
two  more  turtles,  one  of  which  died  on  its  passage 
back  to  Singapore ;  and  the  other  from  an  acci- 
dental fall  during  our  stay  at  Bath,  which  was  the 
more  disappointing  as  it  had  then  been  nearly  two 
years  in  my  possession.  There  is  no  specimen  of 
the  kind  in  the  Zoological  Gardens. 

A  short  drive  beyond  the  fort  brought  us  to  the 


CASTLE  OF  TAMANSARIE.  ]27 

Castle  of  Tamansarie,  wliicli,  from  its  beintr  sur-  - 
rounded  with  water,  the  Dutch  call  the  Chateau  d'Eau. 
On  alightini^  from  the  carriage,  we  passed  through 
an  old  gateway,  and  walked  to  a  kind  of  Pondopo, 
from  whence  we  were  conducted  by  the  juru 
cooncliee  to  a  terrace  commanding  the  best  view  of 
this  singular  palace.  It  is  a  heavy  pile  of  buildings. 
The  ends  of  each  roof  are  turned  uj)  in  the  Chinese 
style  of  architecture.  The  palace  is  situated  in  the 
centre  of  an  artificial  lake,  the  springs  of  which 
are  now  in  many  parts  dried  up,  leaving  the  bed 
only  partially  covered  with  wat.'r,  and  in  some  parts 
overgrown  by  tall  weeds,  gi\ing  it  more  the  appear- 
ance of  a  marsh  than  of  a  lake.  The  only  means 
of  ingress  an<l  egress  is  through  a  tiumel,  or  sub- 
terraneous passage,  lit  by  four  small  towers  or 
turrets.  The  one  near  the  centre,  being  nuieh 
higher  than  the  rest,  was  probably  used  as  a  post 
of  observation. 

Ila\ing  traversed   this  passage,   we   ascended    a 


128  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

flight  of  steps  and  entered  through  the  principal 
gate,  the  ornaments  of  which  are  in  the  Arabesque 
style.  We  walked  through  several  of  the  deserted 
rooms  and  corridors.  The  sole  article  of  furniture 
left  in  the  palace  is  the  bed  of  Sultan  Hamanku 
Bewono  lY.,  a  low,  long  four-poster,  with  traces  of 
gilding  on  many  parts.  Some  of  the  rooms  had 
even  been  divested  of  their  flooring,  the  planks 
having  been  removed  to  other  houses.  Those  Avhich 
remain  shew  signs  of  having  once  been  painted 
and  partially  gilt. 

After  passing  through  a  number  of  courts  in  a 
lower  part  of  the  building,  we  were  conducted  down 
another  flight  of  steps  leading  to  a  tunnel,  at  the 
end  of  which  we  came  into  a  kind  of  circular- 
shaped  court,  with  a  large  tank  in  the  centre,  and 
a  gallery  all  round,  supported  by  arches.  This 
tank  is  known  as  the  Sumoor  Gamalan  ("  musical 
spring"),  and  is  something  similar  to  a  bath-house 
in  the  grounds  of  the  Rajah  of  Burdwan,  in  India. 


GENERAL  DAENDELS.  129 

Retracing  our  steps,  we  passed  through  large  courts, 
ornamented  with  devices  of  serpents,  flowers,  &c., 
on  the  walls,  and  large  vases  with  orange-trees 
on  each  side  of  the  foot-path,  showing  that  Taman- 
sarie  must  once  have  been  the  abode  of  wealth  and 
luxur}'.  It  is  said  that  the  Sultan  who  erected 
this  chateau  did  so  with  the  idea  that  no  Euro- 
])ean  could  penetrate  into  the  interior  without 
the  guard  being  well  aware  in  time  to  warn  those 
within  to  close  the  passage.  This  precaution  was 
taken  chiefly  against  General  Daendels,  whose  cha- 
racter for  temerity,  almost  approaching  to  rashness, 
was  quite  a  proverb  among  the  natives.  Accord- 
ingly, when  that  general  came,  to  make  him — the 
Sultan — sign  a  treaty  Avhich  he  had  often  pro- 
mised to  ratify,  and  as  frequently  deferred,  with 
trifling  excuses,  the  native  prince,  ]x;rfectly  safe 
as  he  imagined,  and  surrounded  by  faithful  soldiers, 
felt  himself  quite  aljle  to  play  his  own  part  witli  his 
ojtponent. 

VOL.  H.  R 


1  30  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

On  tliG  day  appointed  for  the  interview — which 
was  to  take  place  a  short  way  from  Tamansarie — 
Daendels  and  his  officers  waited  in  vain  for  the 
arrival  of  the  Sultan,  who  deferred  his  appearance 
from  hour  to  hour,  sending  excuses  which,  if  not 
believed,  were  at  least  tolerated.  Ere  long,  how- 
ever, the  delegates  began  to  see  that  they  were 
only  a  laughing-stock  to  the  crowd,  which  momen- 
tarily increased  in  number — news  of  the  intended 
interview  having  spread  far  and  near. 

Daendels,  irritated  by  the  delay,  knit  his  brows, 
and  ordering  two  of  his  aides-de-camp  to  follow, 
forced  his  wav  throuo-li  the  mass  of  human  beings, 
and,  walking  to  the  subteri'aneau  passage  that  led 
to  the  chateau,  boldly  entered  it  without  meeting 
with  any  opposition,  as  such  a  stej)  had  been  wholly 
unlooked  for.  From  here  he  penetrated  into  the 
audience  hall,  where  the  Sultan  was  seated,  sur- 
rounded by  his  courtiers  and  officers,  with  whom 
lie  was  in  deep  consultation. 


HUMILIATING  SITUATION.  131 

The  appearance  of  Daendels  cut  short  the  deljate, 
and  for  a  moment  tlie  assembled  group  seemed 
turned  to  stone,  so  petrified  were  they  b}'  the  un- 
expected appearance  of  this  brave  man,  who  walked 
straight  up  to  the  Sultan,  and,  seizing  him  by  the 
arm,  compelled  the  astonished  monarch  to  accom- 
pany him. 

The  situation,  as  may  be  well  imagined,  must 
have  been  a  very  humiliating  one  for  the  crafty 
Sultan,  who,  doubtless,  would  have  offered  some 
resistance,  were  it  not  for  his  knowledge  of  a 
European  force  then  encamped  outside  the  town. 
Making,  therefore,  the  best  of  it,  now  that  he 
coukl  no  longer  frame  any  excuse,  he  ordered  tlu; 
Gamakui  and  musicians  to  proceed  ;  and,  followed 
bv  his  suite,  k-ft  the  castle  with  Daendels. 
.Anxious  to  nud'Cc  it  ap])car  it  was  a  voluntary  act 
on  his  J)art,  he  at  once  signed  the  treaty  with  tlic 
Dutch,  which  he  had  so  long  endeavoured  to 
avoid. 

Iv  -1 


132  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

From  anotlier  source  I  was  informed  that 
Daendels  actually  dragged  him  out  of  bed,  in 
order  to  compel  him  to  fulfil  his  promise.  The 
bed — the  very  one  we  saw — was  ever  after  consi- 
dered unlucky  by  the  Javanese,  and  consequently 
never  used.  If  this  be  true,  it  accounts  for  its 
being  left  in  its  present  position,  when  every  other 
moveable  article  was  removed. 

I  cannot  say  which  of  these  accounts  is  the  true 
one,  but  there  is  no  doubt  whatever  that  Daendels 
entered  the  castle  in  the  manner  I  have  related,  and 
forced  the  slippery  Sultan  to  sign  the  treaty.  The 
incident  has  been  handed  down  by  tradition  even 
amongst  the  natives,  by  whom  Daendels  is  still 
spoken  of  as  a  most  daring  man. 

The  spring  tank  of  Siraman  is  about  a  mile 
from  the  town,  and  belongs  to  one  of  the  present 
Sultan's  ministers.  It  is  situated  in  a  beautiful 
garden,  and  fed  by  two  running  streams.  In  the 
centre  stands  a  fountain  with  quaint  relievos.     A 


IXTERVIEW  WITH  TWO  SOLDIERS.  133 

few  feet  below  the  level  of  this  is  a  shower-batli. 
The  water  runnino;  from  the  tank  falls  on  the  bather's 
head,  after  passing  through  the  mouth  of  a  peacock 
cut  out  of  stone.  On  each  side  of  this  are  two  figures, 
in  form  half  woman  and  half  prawn.  These  are 
the  Javanese  mermaids,  called  orang  ayxi.  Here 
we  had  a  delightful  bath,  reminding  one  of  those 
enjoyed  by  the  luxurious  Moors  of  Granada,  or  the 
Persians  in  the  time  of  Sultan  Ali  Ven  Moussah. 

On  our  return  we  perceived  two  soldiers  walking 
u])  and  down  before  the  house  in  which  we  were 
domiciled.  As  we  approached,  and  were  about  to 
enter,  they  came  u})  and  asked  most  respectfully  to 

see  Mr.  Z ,  as  they  wished  to  speak  to  him  very 

particularly  for  a  few  minutes.     Mr.  Z ,  l)eing 

made  acquainted  with  their  request,  and  concluding 
it  to  be  some  matter  of  importance,  desired  them  to 
go  to  his  Kontoor,  where,  as  he  afterwards  related 
to  us,  the  following  dialogue  took  j)lace  : 

"  \\'ell,  my  men,  what  do  you  want  ?" 


134  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

"  Please,  sir,"  replied  the  man  who  had  spoken 
first,  *'  we  left  the  fort  this  morning  and  have  now 
missed  three  calls,  and,  sir,  we  want  you  just  to 
help  lis  a  bit." 

Here  he  stopped  and  looked  at  his  comrade, 
in  the  expectation  that  he  would  help  him  out 
with  his  story;  but  as  he  only  looked  down  and 
said  nothing,  the  first  speaker  began  to  rub  the 
peak  of  his  shako  as  though  he  were  polishing  it 
for  ])arade. 

"  Well,  I  can   do  nothing  for  you  that  I  see," 

said  Mr.  Z ,  beginning  to  wonder  what  they 

meant;  "you  have  absented  yourselves  without 
lea^■e,  and  must  abide  by  the  consequence.  I  can't 
assist  you ;  but  my  advice  is,  return  immediately  to 
the  fort,  for  if  the  day  passes  over  you  may  be 
considered  as  deserters." 

"  Yes,  sir,"  answered  the  man,  "  we  know  that, 
and  intend  going  back  at  once,  but  we  want  your 
help." 


PURCHASE  OF  JUNGLE  FOWL.       135 

"  My  help  I     I  tell  you  it  is  impossible." 

"  No,  sir,  it  is  not,  excuse  me,"  said  lie  getting 
bolder,  "  all  we  want  is  a  little  gin,  to  enable  us  to 
bear  our  punishment  like  bra\'e  men ! " 

One  morning  we  went  to  see  the  market,  where 
native  and  imported  crockery,  linen,  vegetables,  fish, 
meat,  fowls,  and  fruit  were  displayed  in  abundance. 
As  I  observed  some  ayam  alas,  or  jungle  fowl,  to  be 
sold,  I  purchased  a  pair,  and  though  repeatedly  told 
by  my  frii'uds  that  they  were  too  delicate  to  survi\e 
the  voyage  to  Europe,  I  lioj)ed,  by  some  good  luck, 
to  bring  them  over  safely.  They  were  the  size  of 
Sebriglit's  bantams,  the  cock  ha\ing  dark  blue 
feathers  on  the  breast,  and  tail  tijiped  with  gold, 
briglit  yellow  hackles,  black  beak  an<l  legs,  and  comb 
of  a  bluish  tinge.  The  hen  was  very  like  our  Ik'U 
pheasants,  but  much  smaller,  and  with  a  nuicli  less 
lu'illiant  ])lumage  than  that  of  the  male  bird. 
They  are  very  timid,  and  rai'cly  tamed. 

Notwithstanding  all  our  care  and  attention,  feed- 


136  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

in^  them  on  grasshoppers  and  wild  herbs,  one  died 
on  the  journey,  the  other  some  months  after,  at 
Singapore. 

Beyond  the  passar,  or  market,  is  the  campong 
cheena;  and  further  on  we  came  to  a  cemetery, 
where  we  saw  several  monuments  erected  to  the 
memory  of  those  Englishmen  who  fell  at  the  suc- 
cessful assault  of  the  Kraton  in  1812. 

A  column,  sculptured,  or  rather,  I  should  say, 
cemented  over  with  designs  of  leaves  and  flowers, 
attracted  our  attention,  as  marking  the  last  earthly 
resting-place  of  a  "  brave  and  gallant  youth,"  who, 
at  the  assault,  was  one  of  the  first  to  penetrate  into 
the  private  apartments  of  the  Sultan.  Breaking 
his  way  through  a  wooden  door  which  barred  his 
progress,  he  came  suddenly  upon  an  unexpected  ob- 
ject in  the  person  of  a  dark-eyed  Javanese  girl,  who, 
from  some  cause  unknown,  had  been  left  behind 
when  the  Sultan  and  his  court  made  their  hasty  exit. 
Unlike  Gonsalvo  de  Cordova,  who,  when  he  found 


CURIOUS  LAMP.  137 

himself  in  a  similar  situation  at  the  assault  of 
Jaen,  dismounted  from  his  horse,  kissed  the  fair 
and  trembling  hand,  and  then  joined  his  men,  he, 
\vithout  pausing  to  consider  the  imprudence  of  the 
act,  rashly  seized  the  girl  by  the  waist,  and  at- 
tempted to  carry  her  away  by  force,  a  design  in 
which  he  was  defeated.  The  princess,  as  she 
turned  out  to  be,  irritated  at  the  capture  of  her 
father's  Kraton,  and  the  insult  now  offered  to  her- 
self, stabbed  the  young  officer  in  the  neck  with  a 
kriss  she  wore  concealed  in  the  folds  of  her  sarong, 
inflicting  a  wound  from  the  effects  of  which  he 
died  shortly  after. 

A  relative  of  our  host's  gave  us  a  lamp  so  very 
primitive  in  its  construction,  that,  had  we  not  been 
told,  we  should  never  have  imairined  the  use  to 
which  it  was  put.  It  consisted  of  a  little  box,  cut 
out  of  a  solid  piece  of  wood,  in  the  form  of  a  leaf, 
and  slightly  hollowed  out  in  the  middle.  A 
close-fitting  lid,    ])laccd   over   it,   can    be    shifted 


138  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

from  side  to  side  by  means  of  a  small  pivot  at  one 
end.  When  used  it  is  filled  with  a  dark  adhesive 
substance.  This  simple  but  ingenious  lamp  was 
made  use  of  by  a  daring  housebreaker  in  a  most 
singular  manner.  Prior  to  sallying  forth  on  his 
nightly  Avork  of  depredation,  he  placed  several 
fire-flies  in  the  hollow  of  the  box,  which  he  carried 
in  a  small  bamboo  cylinder,  with  a  kind  of  wooden 
stopper  to  prevent  the  insects  from  flying  away, 
and  with  slits  cut  in  the  sides  to  admit  air.  From 
this  he  replenished  his  box  or  lamp,  when  he  per- 
ceived the  light  was  not  so  bright  as  he  wished  it 
to  be,  and  on  account  of  the  adhesive  substance  to 
which  their  legs  became  glued,  the  flies  which  gave 
the  light  were  unable  to  escape. 

When  he  succeeded  in  entering  a  house,  he  hid 
himself  in  some  out-of-the-way  place,  and  waited 
until  he  felt  sure  all  the  inmates  were  fast  asleep. 
Then  pushing  the  lid  of  his  box  aside,  to  give  himself 
light,  he  stealthily  moved  from  room   to  room,  ap- 


THE  murderer's  VICTIMS.  139 

propriating  ever  article  of  value  which  came  within 
his  reach.  The  moment  he  heard  the  slightest 
noise,  ho  closed  the  lid,  and,  in  the  darkness  which 
followed,  took  to  flight. 

By  this  means,  as  he  afterwards  confessed,  lie 
had  for  seven  years  successfully  plundered  the 
honest  gains  of  others,  llis  boldness  increasing 
with  success,  inspired  him  with  a  rash  confidence 
in  his  lucky  star,  which  finally  led  to  his  discovery 
and  apprehension. 

One  day,  as  he  was  idly  lounging  before  his 
door,  two  women  from  the  country,  Avho  had  come 
to  Djokdja  in  order  to  dls])0se  of  some  articles  they 
had  bnnight  with  them,  stopj)ed,  and  showed  him 
their  wares.  On  entering  into  conversation,  the 
man  learnt  that  they  were  ])erfect  strangers  to  the 
town,  and,  as  they  seemed  anxious  to  secure  a 
lodging,  he,  with  great  apparent  hosj'itality,  re- 
fpiested  them  to  enter  into  his  house,  where  he 
showed  them   a  njoni,  which,  he   said,  they  might 


140  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

look  upon  as  their  own  during  the  time  they  stayed 
in  Djokdja. 

After  partaking  of  a  hearty  meal,  for  which 
these  poor  creatures  expressed  themselves  most 
grateful  to  their  host,  they  all  withdrew,  the  man 
advising  them,  ere  he  retired,  to  be  sure  and  keep 
their  goods  and  gains  under  the  pillow,  for,  as  he 
said,  "  no  one  knows  who  might  enter  by  night." 

The  women,  who  were  much  fatigued,  were 
soon  buried  in  profound  slumber.  The  wretch, 
having  ascertained  this,  entered  the  room  armed 
with  a  large  staff,  with  whicli  he  struck  his  victims 
on  the  head.  Wounded,  but  not  deprived  of  life, 
they  utterred  a  few  faint  screams,  and  the  man,  to 
prevent  them  from  alarming  the  neighbourhood, 
held  the  pillows  tightly  over  their  mouths  until  life 
was  extinct.  Then,  wrapping  the  bodies  up  in 
matting,  he  carried  them  to  the  back  of  his  house 
where  there  was  a  very  deep  well,  into  which,  after 
tying  a  stone  round  the  neck  of  each,  he  dropped 


MYSTERIOUS  DISAPPEARANCE.  141 

tliem  ;  and  having  thus,  as  he  thought,  secured  his 
safety,  he  retiirned  to  look  over  his  unlawful  gains. 

Several  weeks  passed  withovit  a  shadow  of  sus- 
picion of  this  infamous  murder.  The  wretch,  con- 
fident in  his  safety,  and  fearing  no  detection,  pur- 
sued his  wicked  course  of  life  as  actively  as  ever. 

In  the  meantime,  the  friends  and  relations  of  the 
murdered  women  began  to  grow  very  uneasy  at 
their  lengthened  stay  from  home,  and  to  make  in- 
quiries about  them.  In  none  of  the  villages  near 
had  they  been  seen  for  weeks,  but  many  had  ob- 
served them  enter  Djokdja,  and  some  had  even 
bought  goods  from  them.  No  one,  however,  had 
seen  either  the  one  or  the  otlier  leave  the  j)lacc, 
nor  did  any  one  remember  his  having  seen  them 
after  tlic  day  of  their  arrival. 

This  mysterious  disaj)pearance,  which  l^cgan  to 
be  the  princi])al  topic  of  conversation,  at  hist  came 
to  the  knowledge  of  the  poHce.  A  knot  of  idlers 
were  one  day   discussing  the   matter  opposite   the 


142  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

liousG  of  an  old  blind  man  who  lived  near  the  un- 
known murderer.  Hearing  the  subject  of  their 
conversation,  the  old  man  listened,  and  soon  be- 
came interested  in  the  sad  story,  upon  which  he 
felt  con\-inced  that  he  could  throw  some  light.  He 
accordingly  joined  the  persons  before  his  door,  and 
that  they  might  converse  in  greater  safety,  invited 
them  into  his  house,  where  he  informed  them  that 
about  the  time  these  poor  women  were  first  missing 
he  was  outside  his  door  till  a  late  hour  one  night, 
refreshing  himself  in  the  cool  air,  when  he  heard, 
issuing  from  the  adjacent  house,  two  or  three  faint 
screams,  as  of  a  woman  crying  for  help.  He  was 
on  the  point  of  going  in  to  tell  his  wife,  when,  the 
screams  dying  away,  he  concluded  that  they  had 
only  proceeded  from  some  woman  who  had  been 
chastised  by  her  husband ;  and,  therefore,  beyond 
a  passing  remark  to  his  wife,  made  no  mention  of 
the  matter. 

The  police,  being  informed  of  this,  their  sus- 


COXSriRACY  OF  SWISS  SOLDIERS.  143 

])icion  fell  on  the  murderer.  His  house  was 
searched,  the  well  was  dragged,  and  the  two  bodies 
found.  A  damning  evidence  against  him  was  the 
staff,  also  smeared  with  blood,  which  the  wTetcli 
had  carelessly  thrown  into  an  exposed  corner.  lie 
was  taken,  tried,  and  condemned  to  be  publicly 
hanged.  A  short  time  before  his  end  he  made  a 
confession,  in  which  he  detailed  at  length  the 
means  by  which  he  had  been  so  long  enabled  to 
accom})lish  in  safety  his  deeds  of  crime  and  vio- 
lence. 

About  three  years  previous  to  our  visit  the  in- 
habitants of  Djokdja  were  thrown  into  a  great 
state  of  consternation  by  a  conspiracy  to  overthrow 
the  Dutch.  The  plot  was  formed  by  several  Swiss 
soldiers  wiio  served  in  the  arm\',  most  of  whom 
had  inlisted  shortly  after  the  disl)andment  of  our 
foreign  legion,  ha\iiig  been  encouraged  to  go 
aljro.'id  to  Ijandjamassiiig  l)y  promises  of  active 
service  and  rapid  ])romotion. 


144  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

On  their  arrival,  however,  they  were,  contrary 
to  their  expectation,  drafted  into  regiments  doing 
garrison  duty  at  the  different  forts  in  the  island, 
especially  those  of  Soerabaya,  Samarang,  Salatiga, 
Ambarrawa,  Solo,  and  Djokdja.  Some  of  them 
patiently  bore  this  disappointment,  and  made  up 
their  minds  to  serve  out  the  time  without  a 
murmur.  Others,  however,  who  were  more  irri- 
tated by  the  deception  which  had  been  practised 
upon  them,  readily  listened  to  the  bold  but  mad 
projects  of  one  Borjot,  a  clever,  intelligent,  and 
determined  man,  who  proposed  to  massacre  all  the 
Dutch  in  the  island,  and  to  make  Java  a  republic 
like  their  beloved  Switzerland. 

This  man,  having  first  sounded  the  sentiments 
of  those  in  the  other  garrisons,  and  finding  only 
too  many  glad  to  accept  his  propositions,  fixed  the 
day  and  hour  when,  in  each  place,  the  foreign 
soldiers  should  rise  simultaneously  and  massacre 
every  one  of  Dutch   blood,   extending  mercy  only 


"WARNING  or  DANGER.  145 

to  tlic  young  wives  and  daughters,  whom  they  in- 
tended to  appropriate  to  tlieinselves. 

The  night  fixed  upon  was  one  of  gaiet}-.  The 
Duteli,  ignorant  of  any  approacliing  danger,  wei'e 
enjoying  themselves  at  a  grand  ball  given  by  the 
Ivesitlent.  The  pleasure  of  the  evening  was  at  its 
height,  when  an  old  lady,  seated  in  the  verandah 
of  her  house,  wlu'eh  was  close  to  that  of  the  Resi- 
dency, and  listening  to  the  nuisic,  was  suddenly 
startle(l  by  the  unex})ected  ajtpearance  of  a  soldier, 
who,  a))])ai'ent]y  nui(;h  excited,  addressed  her,  to 
her  great  alarm,  in  a  whisper. 

"  Madame;,  I  am  so  glad  to  ha\e  seen  some  one.'' 
5aid  he.  "  Foi'  God's  sake  send  somebody  to  warn 
all  who  arc  at  th''  iJi'sideiicv  of  the  apj)roach- 
uig  danger;  tell  them  to  leave  the  house  at  once,  or 
they  will  all  b.'  murdered.  I  l)e!ong  to  the  party, 
but  I  cnuiot  do  if,  I  eannot  bear  to  thiid<  of  it, 
now  the  time  h;is  c()nie." 

The  ladv,   to   whom    this    incoherent    spt'cch    aj)- 

VOL.   II.  I. 


146  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

peared  like  the  ravings  of  a  maniac,  or  the  sense- 
less talk  of  an  intoxicated  man,  at  first  listened  in- 
credulously, and  treated  the  warning  lightly,  but 
when  the  soldier  persisted  in  the  truth  of  what  he 
had  said,  and  insisted  on  the  necessity  for  losing 
no  time,  she  began  to  think  there  might  be  some 
foundation  for  his  extraordinary  statement ;  and  as 
he  would  not  leave  until  he  had  fully  convinced 
her  of  the  truth  of  what  he  had  revealed,  she  pro- 
mised to  dispatch  a  servant  immediately  to  the 
Residency. 

The  Resident,  on  receiving  the  message,  care- 
fully concealed  its  purport  from  all  his  guests,  ex- 
cept the  officers  from  the  fort.  To  these  he  com- 
municated without  delay  the  knowledge  of  the 
peril  in  which  they  stood,  advising  them  to  proceed 
as  cautiously  as  possible,  in  order  to  secure  the 
persons  of  the  rebels  before  they  could  have  the 
slightest  idea  that  their  intended  victims  had  been 
made     acquainted    with     the     murderous    design. 


CONSPIRATORS  SEIZED.  147 

The  officers,  concealing  the  consternation  into 
■which  such  an  astoundinix  revelation  had  thrown 
them,  followed  the  directions  of  the  Resident,  and 
quietly  withdrawing  from  the  gay  throng,  pro- 
ceeded Avith  their  commander  in  great  rapidity  to 
the  fort,  the  gates  of  which  were  noiselessly  closed 
as  soon  as  they  were  within  the  walls. 

Every  Swiss  sentinel  was  disarmed  and  taken 
prisoner  by  Dutch  and  native  soldiers.  The  be- 
wildered conspirators  were  seized  in  their  barracks, 
and  forced  to  lay  down  their  arms.  A  few  shots 
were  fired,  but  so  great  was  the  excitement  and 
terror  causi-d  by  the  unexpected  discovery,  that  the 
conspirators  who  discharged  them  could  take  no 
certain  aim,  and  they  were  conse(piently  harndess. 
Telegrams  were  immediately  sent  to  warn  the  com- 
mandants at  the  other  forts  of  the;  impending 
danger.  7\t  Snra])aya,  the  men's  fire-arms  were 
removed  whih'  they  were  asleeji,  so  that,  on 
awukin<5   about    miihii'dit,   thev   found    themsehes 

L  2 


14b  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

unable  to  cany  out  their  deadly  purpose.  The 
following  morning,  Borjot  and  a  knot  of  the  ring- 
leaders were  tried,  found  guilty,  and  executed 
before  the  gates  of  the  fort^ 

One  morning,  shortly  after  this  event,  Djokdja 
was  thrown  into  an  unusual  state  of  excitement  by 
the  report  that  a  dog  had  been  seen  carrying  a 
human  foot  into  the  town.  With  the  natives  it 
soon  became  current  that  one  of  their  own  race  had 
been  foully  murdered.  On  examination,  however, 
the  foot  was  found  to  be  that  of  a  European — a 
fact  which  roused  the  suspicions  of  the  European 
community,  who,  from  recent  events,  were  easily 
excited ;  and  supposing  it  to  indicate  the  existence 
of  a  deeper  plot  against  them,  they  began  to  look  to 
tlieir  own  safety,  and  lost  no  time  in  making  in- 
quiries from  house  to  house,  to  assure  themselves 
that  none  of  the  inmates  were  missing.  Satisfac- 
tory answers  were,  however,  returned,  which  made 
the  case  very  mysterious.     For  several  days  it  was 


DISCOVERY  OF  A  HUMAN  FOOT.  149 

the  topic  of  conversation  in  the  place,  and  for  all 
that  we  know,  stran(^"e  surmises  woukl  probably  have 
been  made  reiiardinfj  the  foot  to  this  dav,  had  not 
facts  stronger  than  suppositions  pushed  themselves 
under  the  noses  of  the  learned  doctors  assembled 
to  discuss  the  subject.  It  seemed  strange  to  them 
that  the  heat  of  the  climate,  which  decomposes 
aniuial  matter  in  less  than  forty-eight  hours,  had 
not  made  the  slightest  impression  on  the  foot ; 
tliougli  four  days  had  now  ela])sed  since  its  disco- 
very, it  was  still  as  fresh  as  on  the  first  day.  Some 
wrig  suggest(,'d  that  it  might  have  been  pickled  or 
saltt.'d  ;  and  sure  enough  a  lingual  and  nasal  test 
proved  tliat  such  was  the  case.  J>ut  wh\'  had  this 
been  don(;  ?  The  gra\'e  conclave  of  doctors 
asscndilcil  f\crv  day  for  a  week,  vainlv  trying 
to  S(i]\c  tlic  in\sterv. 

At  last  tiny  wen;  about  to  give  Uj)  the  mat- 
ter as  inexplicable,  when,  to  the  sui'j)i'ise  of  all, 
a   doctor    wlio    had     been    \  erv   silent  durinir   the 


150  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

whole  of  that  day's  proceedings  started  up,  and 
exclaimed, 

"  Good  Heavens  !  can  it  be  possible  I  have  kept 
you  so  long  in  suspense  ?  I  do  believe  the  foot  is 
that  of  a  soldier  I  amputated  some  years  ago,  since 
which  time  it  was  kept  in  the  Museum  of  Anatomy; 
but  being  anxious  to  clear  the  space  it  occupied 
for  more  important  subjects  to  lecture  upon,  I 
ordered  my  servant,  about  four  months  ago,  to 
bury  the  bottle  and  its  contents  in  some  out-of-the- 
way  place.  But  we  shall  soon  see — I  am  deter- 
mined to  clear  up  this  mysterious  affair.  Opus," 
cried  he  to  one  of  the  attendants,  "  go  and  order 
my  servant  to  come  here  immediately." 

On  the  boy's  appearance,  the  doctor  said : 

"  Kasem,  do  you  know  that  foot  V 

"  No,  Tuan,  I  do  not." 

"  You  saltan,  don't  you  know  the  foot  I  told  you 
to  bury  with  the  bottle  1" 

"  Ya,  Tuan,  I  do." 


AMUSIXG  DISCOVERY.  151 

"  Then  how  came  It  Into  the  dog's  month  f 

"  I  don't  know,  sir — I  buried  it  deep." 

"  With  or  without  the  bottle '?" 

The  boy  hesitated  a  moment  to  frame  his  excuse, 
tlicn  answered — 

"  Without  tlie  bottle." 

''  Whv  did  you  do  so  ?  How  do  you  dare  to 
disobey  my  orders?" 

'*  Because,"  said  the  collected  youth — "  because 
we  are  not  allowed  by  the  Korahan  to  bury  human 
flesh  in  a  box  or  bottle." 

"  Piiji  fur  Saitaii,  you  orang  chilaca  !  Go  to 
the  devil,  you  rascal  I"  And  the  boy  disappeared 
amidst  such  a  l)urst  of  laughter  as  was  never  heard 
Ix'forc  within  the  walls  of  the  hospital. 

This  discovery  was  soon  s])read  through  the 
town,  ti)  the  amusement  and  relief  of  all  who 
iieard  it.  Thus  ended  a  scven-dnvs'  wonder,  caused 
by  the  neghgence  or  covetousness  of  a  tiavanese 
youth,  and  the   voracity  of   a   dog— w  liicli,  for  the 


152  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

time,    kept  tlie  pulse  of   Djokdja  at  fever  heat. 

We  were  invited  one  evening  to  the  house  of 
the  Tumungong  Mertonegoro  (signifying  "the  good 
of  the  hind"),  in  order  to  witness  some  dances  which 
had  been  got  up  for  our  entertainment.  The  resi- 
dence of  tliis  prince  is  about  two  miles  from  the 
town  ;  and  we  had  a  pleasant  moonlight  drive  to  it. 
The  Tumungong  was  ready  to  welcome  us  as  we 
alighted.  He  is  a  colonel  in  the  Sultan's  troops, 
and  brother  to  the  prime-minister.  He  made  him- 
self very  agreeable,  and  seemed  remarkably  desir- 
ous for  information,  showing  a  great  deal  of  curi- 
osity on  many  subjects. 

The  ladies  of  his  household,  consisting  of  his 
wife,  daughters,  nieces,  &c.,  blazing  Avitli  jewels, 
were  seated  in  a  semicircle  round  the  upper  part  of 
the  Pringitan.  The  gentlemen  were  in  the  Pen- 
dopo,  which  had  many  stands  full  of  glittering 
spears,  and  quite  a  museum  of  native  arms. 

To  the  riwht  of  the  Prinoitan  was  tlie  orchestra. 


JAVANESE  ORCHESTRA.  153 

consisting  of  tjjirt}'  men  playing  different  instru- 
ments, and  composing  what  they  call  their  full 
Gamalan  band.  This  was  the  first  complete  native 
nuisical  corps  we.  had  yet  seen,  and  some  of  the 
instruments  were  quite  new  to  us.  One  ponderous- 
looking  affair,  like  a  rude  violoncello,  was  about 
four  feet  long,  with  an  oval  back — the  finger- 
board, tail-]>iece,  and  pegs  being  of  i^'ory.  A  very 
diminutive  piece  of  wood,  placed  close  to  the  finger- 
board, served  as  the  bridge.  Two  wires  composing 
the  strings,  on  being  tightly  drawn,  produced  soiuuls 
far  from  pleasing.  There  was  anothei"  curiosity 
in  the  sha])e  of  an  enormous  gong,  so  large  that 
anyone  could  have  used  it  comfortably  for  a  bath, 
l^he  (ianialan  I  have  before  described — the  (^dv 
difference  between  those  used  liiTe  and  tlie  ones  we 
hud  ])re\ii)nsly  seen  being  in  their  size.  This  in- 
strnnieiit.  when  heard  close  at  h;ind,  is  (h-afeninir 
and  noisy,  tliougli  never  so  unmusical  as  the 
Chinese  gong  ;   at  a  distance,  it  lias  a  sweet  lulling 


154  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

sound,  "  like  water  drops  trained  into  melody." 
As  Javanese  music  is  always  extemporary,  the 
measure  is  almost  invariably  common  time;  though, 
in  some  of  the  allegro  and  presto  passages,  the 
beat  is  what  musicians  would  term  a  two-four 
time. 

Before  the  dances  commenced,  six  vocalists  rose 
up,  conducted  by  one  who  appeared  the  leader,  and 
who  sang  from  a  manuscript  which  had  been 
written  by  the  Prince  at  the  express  order  of  the 
Sultan.  The  subject  was  a  eulogium  on  the  last 
review  of  his  Majesty's  troops.  The  instrument 
sometimes  kept  time  with  the  song,  but  as  the  ac- 
companiment was  altogether  improvised,  they  more 
frequently  appeared  to  forget  the  air  which  ought 
to  have  been  the  foundation  of  their  variations. 
The  first  dance  was  performed  by  six  young  girls, 
two  of  whom  were  the  daughters  of  the  Prince,  and 
the  others  their  relatives.  They  came  from  the 
house  which  was  at  the  back,  and  walked  with  stately 


DAXCE  BY  SIX  GIRLS.  155 

precision  on  to  the  Pringitan.  They  were  very 
gaily  dressed.  Their  hahayas  were  of  rich  silk, 
confined  round  the  waist  (in  a  manner  I  had  never 
before  seen,  as  that  article  of  attire  in  Java  is 
always  left  loose)  by  pindings  sparkling  with 
jewels.  Their  gay  saroiujs  flowed  below  so  long  as 
to  form  ([uite  a  train  as  they  walked.  Brilliant 
looking  coronets  encircled  their  heads,  and  their 
ears  seemed  f|uite  heavy  with  the  -weight  of  the  jew- 
els lianmno;  from  them. 

Turning  towards  the  ladles  as  they  entered,  they 
seated  themselves  on  the  ground,  and  raised  their 
hands  to  salute  the  Raden  Ayu,  or  wife  of  the 
Prince.  Tiien  rising  up  simultaneously,  they  sepa- 
rated into  two  j)arties,  which,  after  crossing  and 
rccrossing  eacii  other  si'veral  times,  suddenly  stood 
still  in  one  attitude,  as  if  tluy  had  been  statues. 
After  coiitiimiug  still  for  some  moments,  they  began 
to  twist  about  and  wave  their  bodies  as  onlv 
supple-jointed  >Vsiatics  can  do;   and  there  was  fre- 


156  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

quently  so  much  ease  and  gracefulness  in  their 
movements,  that  they  might  have  vied  with  those 
of  a  London  or  Parisan  corps  de  ballet.  One  of 
their  movements  struck  us  as  very  extraordinary, 
though  scarcely  characterized  by  the  same  chore- 
graphic  grace  whicli  we  had  observed  in  their  other 
movements.  This  was  the  curious  manner  in  which 
they  sometimes  protruded  the  inner  joint  of  the 
elbow,  turning  their  hands  backw^ards  in  a  curve, 
until  the  middle  finger  touched  the  wrist,  a  position 
which  had  more  the  a})]iearance  of  a  deformity 
than  of  aught  graceful  or  beautiful. 

Four  boys,  dressed  as  Chinese  mandarins,  per- 
formed the  next  dance,  which  had  a  warlike  signi- 
fication. Each  was  accompanied  by  an  esquire, 
carrying  the  weapons,  &c.,  he  was  to  use  in  the 
sham  fight  in  Avhich  he  was  to  engage  during  the 
dance.  A  bamboo  clarionet  was  the  instrument 
whose  martial  notes  excited  the  mimic  warriors, 
who,   under  the  weight    of  the    padded   clothing 


PANTOMIMIC  PERFORMANCE.  157 

which  they  wore,  soon  became  tired  of  their  task, 
and  exhibited  a  very  fagged  appearance.  Six 
girls,  who  had  ah'cady  taken  part  in  the  first 
dance,  again  appeared.  A  table  covered  with 
wliite  was  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  Pringitan, 
and  a  \ase  of  flowers  was  pnt  on  it  by  an  old 
duenna,  who,  every  now  and  then,  rearranged  the 
dress  of  the  dancers,  or  smoothed  out  their  tangled 
hair.  The  variety  of  their  movements  showed  that 
this  was  a  scenic  performance. 

In  order  that  we  might  be  able  to  understiuid 
their  pantdniimic  gestures,  I  inquired  what  it  was 
they  meant  to  re])rest,-nt ;  and,  in  reply,  was  told  the 
following  romantic  story,  the  foundation  of  the 
ballet:— 

In  a<!:cs  iioiw  bv,  there  lived  a  kinii  known  as 
Praboe  >Sirid<ilo,  ''{  Mcndaugkamolan,  who,  when 
very  vduug.  di'tD'udncd  to  abandon  the  woi'ld. 
For  this  purpose  In-  lived  in  a  but,  or  cave,  on  the 
top  (jf  a  mountain,  \vhcre  Ik;  was   in   the   coiistant 


158  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

habit  of  studying  and  meditating,  keeping  certain 
days  as  tapa,  or  fasts.  Like  Faust,  however,  he 
was  frequently  interrupted  in  the  midst  of  his  re- 
flections by  a  Javanese  Mephistopheles,  who,  that 
he  might  wean  the  mind  of  the  youth  from  the 
perusal  of  the  sacred  books,  artfully  pictured  to  his 
imagination  the  pleasures  of  this  world.  Inwardly 
distrusting  the  strength  of  his  own  good  resolutions, 
Praboe  sent  for  a  larse  bird,  with  whose  lanfjuaire 
he  was  conversant,  and  for  four  vestal  virgins,  to 
exorcise  the  evil  spirit  which  inspired  him  with 
worldly  and  sensual  thoughts. 

Previous  to  their  arrival  he  transformed  himself 
into  a  flower,  in  which  form  the  young  maidens 
began  dancing  round  him  to  drive  away  the  evil 
one.  A  princess,  who  happened  to  pass  by,  seeing 
a  vase  of  beautiful  flowers,  plucked  one,  and  carried 
it  home.  On  placing  it  in  water,  her  siu'prise 
equalled  her  admiration  when  the  flower  suddenly 
changed  into  a  handsome  young  man,    who,   en- 


ADJOURNMENT  TO  THE  SUPrER-ROOM.      159 

raptured  with  the  charms  of  the  pruicess,  at  once 
made  her  an  offer  of  his  liand  and  heart,  all  love 
for  a  hermit  life  and  for  tapa  havinfi^  vanished 
when  the  young  girl  plucked  him  from  the  vase. 

The  dance  or  ballet  founded  on  this  story, 
called  tlie  Buksan,  is  a  great  favourite  with  every 
native. 

After  one  or  two  other  representations  of  a 
warlike  nature,  we  all  adjourned  to  the  supper-room. 
As  this  apartment  was  across  the  court-yard,  tlio 
Javanese  gentlemen,  following  the  example  of  the 
Europeans,  offered  their  arms  to  the  ladies.  The 
innovation,  however,  did  not  seem  to  be  generally 
accejitable.  As  I  was  leading  in  a  lady,  I  saw  one 
of  the  princesses  without  a  ])artner,  and,  advancing 
towards  her.  offered  my  other  arm.  She  liesitated 
at  lii'st.  but  on  seeing  some  of  her  friends  and  ri'- 
latlons  liandt'd  in  in  the  same  maimer,  she  aj)peared 
inclined  to  accept  my  polite  offer.  All  at  once, 
however,    as    if   overcome    b\'    iiKuiraise   Iiontr.   she 


160  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

tlcclinecl    my    assistance,    and    walked    in    alone. 

It  was  very  amusing  to  see  the  Javanese  princes 
and  gentlemen  projecting  their  elbows  as  far  as 
they  could  in  order  to  keep  the  ladies'  crinolines 
from  touching  their  sarongs.  A  short  European 
lady  who  was  present,  remarked, 

"  I  had  literally  to  keep  hold  of  my  partner's 
sleeve  in  order  to  keep  pace  with  him." 

The  supper  was  prefaced  with  soup,  and  followed 
by  hot  dishes,  after  the  Dutch  fashion  in  Djokdja. 
At  the  conclusion  of  the  repast,  we  re-entered  the 
Pendopo,  and  were  shown  over  part  of  the  dwelling- 
house.  Among  other  apartments  we  saw  the 
''  family  bridal  chamber,"  in  which  we  noticed  two 
painted  wooden  figures — one  of  a  man  and  the 
other  of  a  woman,  standing  at  the  foot  of  the 
"  family  nuptial  couch."  These  figures,  as  we 
were  told,  are  calleil  Lorobonyhoyo,  or  the  youth 
and  maiden,  and  are  placed  there  to  cheat  the 
devil,   who,   according  to  their  belief,  during  the 


ROYAL  ENTERTAINMENT,  IGl 

weddincr-niglit  hovers  round  the  bed,  with  the 
view  of  carrying  off  one  of  the  happy  pair.  These 
figures,  however,  are  their  protection,  for,  deceived 
by  their  resemblance,  he  carries  them  off  instead 
of  the  sleeping  lovers. 

In  our  round  of  native  visits,  a  few  days  after 
this,  we  were  entertained  by  a  branch  of  the;  royal 
house  (the  Susuhunan's),  who  borethetitles  of  Pakoe 
Alam  III.  (or  third  nail  of  the  earth),  Pangeran 
Addhipatti,  Soeria  Sasraningrat — the  latter  sign  if  y- 
infT  "  arm  of  the  earth."  On  this  occasion  we  saw 
several  war  dances,  in  the  execution  of  which  the 
men,  naked  to  the  waist,  showed  great  dexterity 
in  handling  both  the  sword  and  kriss.  Tlkir 
aj)[)('aranc(',  the  eyebrows  being  plastered  over 
with  some  lilack  compositiun  in  the  form  of  large 
arches,  and  tlieir  faces  and  bodies  being  i-oloured 
briglit  yellow,  reminded  me  of  some  Xine\ite 
figures. 

After  the  dances,  the  I'riiiee  -hevwd    n>    a  lai'ge 
VOL.   II.  Jl 


162  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

book,  about  two  feet  long,  and  very  thick,  which 
was  brought  in  by  two  men,  and  pkiced  with  cere- 
monious reverence  on  a  table.  This  book  con- 
tained a  genealogical  table  written  by  the  Prince's 
father,  and  several  poems  composed  by  his  grand- 
father, relatives,  and  friends,  which  he  seemed  very 
proud  of.  The  volume  was  bound  in  leather,  and 
inlaid  with  precious  stones  and  gold,  two  small 
yellow  satin  cushions  being  placed  under  the  back 
when  opened,  in  order  that  it  might  not  be  strained. 
Every  page  was  illuminated  with  gold  and  colours, 
in  a  manner  far  superior  to  anything  I  had  ever 
expected  from  the  hands  of  the  Javanese.  The 
book,  which  is  seventy-five  years  old,  is  called  Me- 
nac. 

We  were  introduced  by  the  Prince  to  his  mother, 
a  woman  between  sixty  and  seventy,  which  for  a 
native  is  considered  very  aged.  She,  however, 
looked  very  hearty  and  strong,  and  possessed  a 
wonderfullv  retentive  memory.     She  remembered 


ALBINO  BABY.  163 

the  names  of  most  of  the  officers  and  Residents 
who  resided  at  Djokdja  during  the  Englisli  rule. 
This  old  lady  presented  my  wife  with  a  sarong,  of 
the  esteemed  prang  rusa  pattern,  strongly  scented 
with  a  preparation  called  jabud,  or  ajubat,  which 
is  much  used  by  the  wealthier  natives,  and  is  said 
to  be  made  from  the  fat  of  the  moosang,  or  wild 
cat. 

The  Prince  next  took  us  into  an  inner  court  of 
the  house,  where  he  showed  us  an  albino  baby, 
fair  as  a  lily,  whose  parents  and  ancestors  were  all 
pure  Javanese.  The  native  princes,  whenever 
they  hear  of  the  birth  of  any  singular  children, 
immediately  send  for  the  ])arents,  give  them  apart- 
ments within  the  precincts  of  their  palace  or  house, 
and  adopt  tlieir  offspring.  The  birth  of  an  albino 
is  thus  (•«)iisl(lercd  to  bring  luck  to  a  ])oor  man. 
The  child  itself,  however,  is  generally  weak  and 
sickly  through  life,  and  its  eyes,  which  are  pink,  are 
scarcely  ever  able  to  bear  the  light  of  day. 

M  2 


164  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

The  climate  of  Djokdja  Karta  is  very  salubrious, 
the  temperature,  except  at  mid-day,  being  cool  and 
pleasant.  The  sea-breezes  and  heavy  dews,  which 
refresh  the  air  at  night,  are  often  so  chilly  that  one 
requires  a  blanket  in  bed  as  a  protection  against 
them ;  and  the  absence  of  mosquitoes,  which,  in 
most  parts  of  Java,  buzz  their  terrible  nightly  trum- 
pet when  they  are  about  to  levy  sanguinary  mail 
upon  your  flesh,  is  a  blessing  the  value  of  which  all 
travellers  in  the  East  can  estimate. 

This  province  produces  excellent  coffee.  Wheat 
and  barley  also  grow  in  some  of  its  hilly  districts. 
It  is  in  fact  considered  very  rich  in  agricultural 
produce. 

Twelve  miles  from  Djokdja  is  Parangtritis,  or 
Paman-jingan — a  small  village  on  the  sea-board, 
facing  the  Indian  Ocean.  The  meaning  of  the 
first  name  is  "a  stalactite  rock;"  from  Parang — "a 
rock,"  and  tritis — "  studded  with  stones."     Stalac- 


STALACTITE  CAVES.  165 

tites  abound  all  along  the  coast  in  caves,  caverns, 
and  hollows — some  of  them  so  remarkable  as  to  be 
well  worth  seeing. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


leave  for  moextillax — temple  of  mandoot — tradition  of 
i:ajah  slamkk  and  his  two  wives — simple  bridge — 
wonderfl.'l  property  of  stones  found  in  snakes'  heads — 
venom  of  a  poisonous  serpent  sucked  out  by  a  galiga 
— ruins  of  bop.obodoo — their  singular  construction — 
alto-relievos— journey  to  tumungong — cold  recep- 

TKjX — RATHER    SLOW   SUBSTITUTE    FOR    HORSES — LEGEND  OF 
Tin;  BUFFALO — WEARISOME  JOURNEY — ARRIVED  AT  LAST. 


169 


CHAPTER  VI. 

We  parted  from  our  hospitable  friends  with  much 
regret ;  and,  after  a  most  agreeable  sojourn  under 
their  kind  roof,  left  for  Moentillan,  where  we  passed 

the  night  at  the  house  of  a  friend  of  Mr.  Z 's. 

We  started  next  morning  to  see  the  ruins  of 
Mandoet,  or  Mandoot,  which  consist  of  a  large 
square-built  temple  surrounded  by  a  fosse,  and 
reached  on  one  side  by  a  small  stone  bridge.  The 
exterior  walls  are  sculptured  with  numerous  figures 
of  Durga,  and  other  Javanese  deities,  much  worn 
hy  time.  Crossing  the  bridge,  we  mounted  a  few- 
steps,  and,  traversing  a  short  })assage,  gained  the 
interior  of  the  building.  We  ol)served  on  the 
walls  of  the  passage  a  lively  grouj),  representing, 
as   the  guide  told   us,  king  (or  deity)   IJriot,   his 


170  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

wife,  and  cliildren,  the  latter  no  less  than  twenty- 
five  in  number.  Some  of  them  are  climbing  trees, 
others  bathing  and  playing,  the  rest  being  taken 
care  of  by  some  of  their  older  brothers  and  sisters. 
The  height  of  the  chamber  we  entered  I  should 
imagine  to  be  about  twenty  feet  close  to  the  walls, 
and  probably  sixty  or  more  in  the  centre,  where  the 
ceiHng  ended  in  a  point  similar  to  that  of  the  fanes 
at  Brambanan.  Facing  the  entrance,  there  is  a 
large  altar,  upon  which  stands  a  figure  of  enor- 
mous proportions,  hewn  out  of  a  solid  block  of 
stone,  of  a  dark  colour,  and  grained  something 
like  granite. 

We  were  informed  that  this  was  the  statue  of 
Kajah  Slambey.  The  nose  and  mouth  were  better 
chiselled  than  any  we  had  yet  seen.  The  head 
was  covered  with  frizzled-looking  hair,  cut  in  short 
stiff  curls  like  those  of  a  negro,  and  the  ears  were 
bored  near  the  tips.  We  saw  also  two  female 
figures,  nearly  the  same  height  as  the  Kajah,  with 


ALTAR  FIGURES.  171 

hair  of  the  same  description.  They  very  much 
resemble  each  other,  and  both  wear  crowns.  We 
also  observed  that  the  left  arms  were  stretched  out 
very  much  in  the  same  deformed  manner  as  those 
of  the  dancers  at  Djokdja.  Their  right  hands  are 
held  near  the  breast  with  two  fingers  raised,  like 
the  figure  of  St.  Peter  at  Home. 

One  of  these  figures  is  bound  to  the  altar  on 
which  it  rests  by  a  chain  carved  out  of  the  stone ; 
and  the  other  is  nailed  throuo;h  the  thio-li.  A 
curious  tradition  is  related  of  these  three  figures. 
One  of  the  IJuddhist  deities,  whom  the  natives  now 
call  Ivajah  liandong,  is  described  as  having  paid 
his  court  to  the  <roddess  Durtja,  and,  on  beinix  rc- 
jected  by  lier,  marched  with  a  large  force  to 
compel  her  to  submit  to  his  wislies.  Durga,  fearing 
tliat  her  army  miglit  be  defeated  by  so  powerful 
an  adversaiy,  ap[)hc'([  to  Slambey  for  his  assistance 
in  tiiL'  struggle.  This  deity,  glad  of  an  opportunity 
to  serve   the  fair  goddess,  lost  no  time  in  suuunon- 


172  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

ing  his  men,  in  order  to  lead  them  to  her  aid. 
But  just  as  he  was  prepared  to  start,  he  was  sur- 
prised to  see  his  two  wives  ready  to  follow  him, 
under  the  fear  that  the  martial  volunteer  him- 
self might  yield  to  the  charms  of  the  beautiful 
divinity.  Enraged  at  being  thus  suspected.  Slam- 
bey  ordered  the  women  immediately  to  return  home; 
and,  on  their  refusal,  commanded  the  one  to  be 
chained,  and  the  other  nailed  to  two  stone  altars, 
after  which  he  transformed  them  into  stone  for 
their  disobedience.  Sallying  forth,  he  then  de- 
feated the  Kajah  of  Bandong,  and  freed  Durga 
from  his  distasteful  wooing.  On  returning  to  his 
home,  he  built  the  temple  of  Mandoot,  in  which  he 
placed  the  two  figures  of  his  refractory  wives,  as  a 
warning  to  other  jealous  women.  The  exterior  walls 
are  decorated  with  figures  of  Durga,  and  sculp- 
tures representing  her  exploits. 

When  the  temple  was  finished,  and  he  began  to 
feel  the  want  of  something  to  employ  his  mind,  the 


SLAMBEY  AND  HIS  WIVES.  173 

memory  of  his  two  faithful  wives  returned  to  him, 
and  he  regretted  the  hasty  part  he  had  acted 
towards  them.  He  happened  one  day  to  be  rumi- 
nating befoi'e  the  altar,  and  regarding  from  time  to 
time  the  cold  faces  of  his  wives  on  each  side,  when 
the  defeated  Rajah  Bandong  entered,  and  disco- 
vered his  vanquisher. 

'"So,  sol"'  cried  he,  in  a  voice  of  thunder,  '^  1 
have  caught  you  at  last,  have  I  ?  What  is  your 
power  to  mine,  now  you  have  notDurga  near  you? 
Be  thou,  cruel  man,  for  ever  seated  on  that  spot, 
and  become  like  those  two  poor  victims  of  thy 
tyranny!'' 

So  saying,  he  left  the  spot,  and  Slambey  was  at 
once  metamorphosed  into  a  cold  stone  figure. 

AI)oiit  a  iiiilc  fj'oiu  Manduot,  wc  sto])pe(l  at  a 
Httlc  village  calK'd  liotchong,  situated  at  tlie  sum- 
mit of  a  liill^  below  which  ih)\vs  the  river  Progo. 
Alighting,  and  walking  down  to  the  water,  wliicii 
wc  wished  to  cross,  we   had    to    wait    until    the 


174  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

bamboo  rafts,  to  serve  us  for  a  bridge,  were  tied 
together. 

•  Whilst  we  are  waiting,  I  will  take  the  oppor- 
tunity of  relating  a  few  incidents  which  were  told 
me  previous  to  leaving  Djokdja.  I  am  sensible 
that  such  digressions  are  not  always  liked,  though, 
to  my  fancy,  in  a  light  work  of  this  description, 
they  sometimes  serve  as  the  oar  to  paddle  the 
canoe  when  the  lively  breeze  of  interest  has  for  a 
moment  subsided  into  a  calm. 

Many  of  my  readers  have  doubtless  heard  of  the 
stones  found  occasionally  in  the  heads  of  serpents, 
fish,  and  other  animals,  which  are  said  to  possess 
the  property  of  curing  different  diseases,  allaying 

the  pain  of  stings,  &c.     A  relative  of  Mr.  Z 

showed  me  a  dark  green  one,  which  had  been 
brilliantly  polished,  and  resembled  a  malachite.  It 
Avas  found,  she  told  me,  in  the  head  of  a  serpent, 
and  had  already  been  the  means  of  effecting  many 
cures.    On  one  occasion  a  native  of  the  town,  whilst 


WONDERFUL  STONES.  175 

workin  fT  in  the  country,  having  been  bitten  on  the 
foot  by  a  venomous]snake,  was  taken  to  the  hospital, 
Avhere  he  suffered  agonies  for  two  or  three  days, 
at  the  expiration  of  wliich  time  his  foot  was  swollen 
to  an  enormous  size,  every  effort  of  the  medical 
men  in  attendance  having  proved  ineffectual  to 
allay  the  inflammation.  The  poor  man,  in  great 
torment,  at  last  bethought  himself  of  the  stone  in 

Mrs.  V "s  ]>ossession,   the  fame  of  which  had 

spread  through  Djokdja,  and  earnestly  implored 
that  they  would  try  this  remedy.  The  doctors 
smiled  incredulously,  but  readily  assented  to  gratify 
the  man's  whim,  as  they  called  it,  and  despatched 
a  messenger  witli  a  polite  re(iuest  for  the  loan  of 
the  stone,  which  was  at  once  granted.  On  appli- 
cation to  the  wound,  and  before  many  seconds  had 
elapsed,  it  adhered  so  tightly  to  the  flesh,  that  it 
was  found  impossible  tf)  remo\e  it  ;  and  not  until 
the  swelling  had  com])letely  abated,  and  the  foot 
had   resumed   its    natural   size,  did    tlu'  wondi'rful 


176  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

stone  detach  itself  and  fall,  leaving  the  patient  free 
from  pain.  > 

This  stone,  being  porous,  possessed  the  property 
of  absorbing  diseased  or  venomous  matter.  When 
it  was  placed  in  a  basin  of  water  the  liquid  soon 
became  quite  discoloured,  and  it  was  not  till  fresh 
water  had  been  put  into  the  vessel  several  times 
that  the  stone  became  perfectly  cleansed  from 
the  bad  matter  it  had  absorbed  fi'om  the  wound. 

A  stone  I  saw,  on  a  different  occasion,  whicli 
was  found  in  a  cocoa-nut,  was  marked  with  the  same 
lines  as  those  on  the  exterior  of  the  shell.  This 
was  set  in  a  ring,  and  was  said  to  possess  the  pro- 
perty of  curing  weak  e^^es. 

As  our  ponies  are  now  on  the  o})posite  bank, 
we  step  into  the  llees-Wagen,  and  are  conveyed 
across  the  swift  broad  current.  As  soon  as  we 
landed  in  safety  on  the  other  side,  the  carriage  was 
pulled  up  by  coolies  to  the  top  of  the  hill. 

Not  far  from  this  river  is  a  buildini:  which  the 


BOROBODOO.  177 

natives  call  the  dapor,  or  kitchen.  It  is  built  of 
that  dark  grey  stone  known  as  trachyte,  a  species 
of  volcanic  rock.  The  interior  walls  being  much 
blackened  by  smoke,  probably  accounts  for  the 
Javanese  name. 

A  mile  farther  on,  over  a  rugged  road,  we  came 
in  sight  of  the  ruins  of  Borobodoo,  situated  on  the 
summit  of  a  green  hill,  which,  though  much  dila})i- 
dated,  were  yet  sufficiently  perfect  to  look  very 
imposing  from  a  distance. 

Borobodoo  is  built  in  terraces,  ten  in  ninnbcr,  the 
four  topmost  being  circular,  and  the  lower  ones, 
wliich  are  built  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  ([uad- 
raugular.  The  wulls  of  these  terraces  are  sur- 
mounted l)y  arches,  luidi'rnrath  whicli  have  been 
figures;  some  still  remaining,  whik'  others  have 
been  iviikimmI,  or  have  fallen  down  fi'oiii  their 
ele\ated  j)()siti(jns.  On  tlie  sunnnit  of  the  temj)le 
stands  a  circular  erection,  jkjw  partly  in  ruins,  like 
a  large  broke)!  funnel,  with  a  kind  of  temporary 
VOL.  11.  N 


178  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

roof  for  the  accommodation  of  visitors.  It  is  built 
quite  al  fresco,  its  passages  and  the  main  portions 
of  the  building  being  entirely  exposed  to  all  the 
changes  of  the  weather. 

There  are  four  entrances  to  this  singular  ruin, 
but  as  the  one  now  in  use  is  on  the  opposite  side, 
we  had  to  walk  round  to  the  western  gate.  Mount- 
ing a  flight  of  steps,  we  reached  the  first  terrace, 
which  we  found  to  be  about  twenty  feet  broad,  and 
from  four  hundred  and  twenty-six  to  thirty  feet 
square.  We  could  now  examine  the  figures 
under  the  arches  more  closely,  and  if — as  an 
author  who  had  many  opportunities  of  forming  a 
correct  judgment  of  pagan  deities  observes — 
"  Buddha  is  invariably  represented  with  curled 
negro  hair  and  long  cars,"  there  need  be  no  doubt 
as  to  whether  Jainists,  Brahmins,  or  Buddhists 
bviilt  this  temple;  for,  with  a  head  perfectly  answer- 
in  (t  to  this  description,  the  deity  sits  on  every  wall, 
and  in  almost  every  niche.     The  date  of  erection 


TERRACES.  179 

of  this  temple  is  supposed  to  be  about  the  year 
1344  A.D. 

The  terraces  on  our  side  are  mucli  encumbered 
with  ashes  and  debris,  ejected  from  the  volcanic 
mountain  Marapi.  A  great  quantity  of  this,  how- 
ever, has  already  been  removed,  as  it  was  found 
that  the  weight  partially  sunk  the  building. 

Tile    walls   on    each    side  of  every  terrace  are 
elaborately    sculptured    with   alto-relievos.     Those 
on     the    inner    wall    of    the    first    represent    tlie 
histoiy  of  Rama.     The  second  terrace,  with   those 
rising  above  it  to  the  circular  tower,  is  reached  bv 
four  flights  of  steps,   corresponding  with  the   foiu' 
cardinal    jjoints    of    the    compass.     It   is   probablv 
about    two    liundi'ed   fei't  less   than    the   first,  and 
only    six    feet    in    width.      All    the   terraces    thus 
gradually     decrease     until     you    ai'rive    near    the 
sunniiit.     The  tableaux  rejiresenting  the  legend  of 
Ivama   are   contimiecl    as   we   ascend,    and    are    so 
numerous  that  it  is  imjiossible  for  anv  (.)ne   to  ex- 

N   2 


180  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

amine  minutely  the  subject  of  each,  unless,  in- 
deed, the  traveller  could  repeat  his  visit  several 
times.  One  represents  two  athletic  figures  strug- 
gling together  for  a  box,  while  a  man  and  woman 
from  an  adjacent  house  look  upon  the  scene  with 
great  consternation  and  alarm.  Next  to  this  is 
seen  a  gigantic  figure  in  a  sitting  posture,  with  one 
knee  raised  and  tied  to  a  tree.  Two  men,  who 
look  like  attendants,  are  on  the  left,  and  on  the 
right  an  altar  with  the  flame  rising  in  a  pyramidal 
form.  Bevond  the  altar  is  a  figure  leanino;  against 
a  kind  of  pillar,  holding  in  his  left  hand  a  lotus 
flower.  This  last  alto-relievo  Is  supposed  to  repre- 
sent a  giant  overpowered,  and  about  to  be  made 
an  auto  da  fe  of,  a  scene  to  which  the  procession 
represented  above  may  probably  be  a  prelude,  as 
the  giant  is  seated  on  an  elephant,  with  an  air  of 
apparent  resignation  to  his  fate,  amidst  a  crowd  of 
people  assembled  to  witness  the  triumph  of  their 
deity  over  mundane  strength.     Rama  precedes  the 


SCULPTURES  ON  THE  WALLS.  181 

captive  giant,  in  a  carriage  drawn  by  a  pair  of 
fiery  horses,  which  the  bujangs  running  by  their 
side  are  vigorously  hishing. 

This  tableau  is  followed  by  one  of  a  ship,  which 
the  sculptor  has  evidently  intended  to  represent  in 
a  storm,  Ijut  he  has  not  been  very  successful  in 
picturing  the  surging  sea  and  lowering  clouds.  On 
tiie  shore  are  several  men,  apparently  begging 
mercy  of  a  woman  who  is  walking  on  the  surface 
of  the  turbulent  waters. 

Further  on  Kama,  or  Logowo,  as  some  natives 
call  him,  is  seen  displaying  diiferent  feats  of 
strength  and  agility  before  the  I'rincess  Cinto,  the 
dauglitcr  of  Muntilirigo,  whose  heart  he  is  desirous 
of  gaining.  In  one  scene  he  is  represented  in  the 
act  of  drawing  his  bow,  tlie  arrow  being  directed 
towai'ds  seven  tall  trees  standing  in  a  line,  which 
he  is  to  fell  l)y  a  singh'  shot,  a  feat  which  he  is 
said  to  have  accomplisherl,  obtaining  thereby  the 
hand  of  the  pi'incess,  and  the  title  of  liama,  or,  as  he 


182  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

is  often  called  by  Hindus,  Eama  Goinda  Samy. 
Three  other  groups,  on  a  line  with  this,  represent 
Rama  carried  in  triumph,  in  a  kind  of  chair  on 
the  shoulders  of  some  men ;  then  the  marriage, 
and  the  grand  procession  after  the  nuptials. 

A  company  of  musicians  playing  before  the 
Princess  and  her  court  is  sculptured  on  the  same 
terrace.  Amongst  the  instruments  I  recognised 
the  Gamalan,  the  only  difference  being  that  the 
metal  gongs  had  not  the  knob  in  the  centre  like 
those  now  in  use. 

Archers,  or  bowmen,  are  displaying  their  skill 
before  Rama  and  his  wife,  who  appear  seated  in 
pomp  on  a  raised  platform  or  dais.  The  right  leg 
of  the  deity  is  placed  crosswise,  the  other  doubled 
before  him.  As  the  men  near  him  are  in  a  similar 
attitude,  this  singular  posture  may  have  been  regard- 
ed as  regal  and  courtlike ;  and  as  if  such  were  the 
case,  it  would  have  to  be  kept  up  during  the  time  an 
audience  lasted,  they  contrived  the  simple  but  inge- 


SCENES  REPRESENTED.  183 

nious  plan  of  tying  the  leg  and  thigh  together,  in 
order  to  enable  the  courtiers  of  that  age  to  sit  for 
hours  thus  crouched  upAvithout  much  inconvenience. 
In  many  of  the  alto-relievos  they  are  represented 
tied,  so  that  we  can  scarcely  avoid  supposing  that 
such  was  the  purpose  of  so  strange  a  posture. 

Others  represent  the  life  of  King  Kadjuno,  a 
celebrated  "  pandawalima,"  or  warrior,  who,  after 
fighting  many  battles,  and  gaining  endless  victories, 
retired  from  the  world  to  a  mountain,  to  do 
"  wardinisy,"  as  the  guide  termed  it,  or  penance. 
Here  he  is  disturbed  in  his  devotions  by  Morodo, 
a  priest,  and  his  attendant  Dawa,  who  flagellate  the 
devout  anchorite,  l)ut  without  being  able  to  ruffle 
his  temper.  Seeing  that  he  bears  all  with  the 
patience  of  a  martyr,  they  seek  the  assistance  of 
W'odosarie,  who  despatches  her  Amazons  to  their 
help.  In  turning  liadjuno  from  his  tajia,  these 
women  slK)ot  at  him  from  a  jirojecting  wall,  with- 
out injuring  him,  however,  f(jr  the  pointed  barbs 


184  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

turn  into  lotus  flowers  as  they  approach  their  in- 
tended victim. 

The  next  four  terraces  are  narrower  than  the 
two  first,  with  relievos  only  on  one  side  of  the  wall. 
The  niches  also  are  fewer  and  farther  between. 
The  last  four,  as  I  have  before  observed,  are  cir- 
cular, and  very  broad ;  each  having  three  rows  of 
bell-shaped  cages,  hewn  out  of  trachyte,  in  which 
is  a  figure  of  Buddha,  in  the  same  sitting  posture 
as  on  the  walls.  These  cages  are  from  four 
to  five  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  stand  about 
three  feet  apart. 

On  ascending  the  last  flight  of  steps  w^e  walked 
to  the  tower,  and  after  gaining  the  summit,  had  an 
extensive  and  beautiful  view  of  the  surrounding 
country.  A  more  lovely  panorama  of  mountains, 
valleys,  streams,  and  tropical  verdure,  is  not  to  be 
found  in  any  other  part  of  Java.  The  tower  can 
be  entered  by  a  door  at  the  foot  of  the  steps,  where, 
half  buried  bv  an  accumulation  of  sand  and  clay, 


RUINS  OF  BRAMBAXAN.  185 

a  stone  figure  lies,  much  broken  and  disfigured. 
From  an  opening  above,  the  ashes  of  the  dead  were 
thrown  down  after  the  bodies  had  been  burnt ; 
incineration  being  a  jn'cvalent  practice  among  the 
ancient  possessors  of  Java. 

Apparently  ^■erv  little  cement  has  been  used  in 
building  this  temple,  the  stones  of  which  have  been 
])laced  together  with  great  discernment,  patience, 
and  skill,  more  particularly  at  the  corners  and  pro- 
jecticms,  wliere  they  are  wedged  together,  or  dove- 
tailed, to  insure  the  strength  of  the  edifice. 

The  ruins  of  Brambanan  are  generally  con- 
sidered to  be  half  a  century  more  ancient  than 
those  of  Ijorolxxloo. 

On  dcsccnchng  the  hill,  avc  ])assed  luider  a  long 
aveiTvU;  of  trcn-s  to  the  AN'odono's  house,  who  in- 
f()ni)('(l  us  that  the  Dapor,  or  kitchen,  the  n;ime 
a]»])!ie(l  to  the  jilaee  we  hail  ]);issed  on  our  way  to 
I>or<)I)iiiloo,  was  a  misnomer,  the;  right  name  being 
Chundi  I'awon — Chundi  signifying,    in   Javanese, 


186  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

a  temple.  At  no  great  distance  lies  the  village  of 
Brodjonolo,  the  gate,  standing  upon  what  seems  to 
have  been  the  site  of  a  former  entrance  to  the 
grounds  of  the  temple. 

After  partaking  of  some  refreshments,  we  started 
on  our  way  back,  recrossed  the  Progo,  and  then 
proceeded  to  Magellan,  which  is  a  nice  clean-look- 
ing town.  A  splendid  view  of  the  twin  volcanoes 
Marapi  and  Murababoo,  may  be  obtained  from  it 
The  road  running  through  it  is  a  very  fine  one 
and  a  large  Kraton,  belonging  to  the  Regent 
stands  on  the  left  side.  Here  we  changed  horses, 
and  continued  our  route  to  a  place  called  Tumun- 
gong,  where  we  arrived  in  the  afternoon. 

Being  provided  with  a  letter  to  a  native  chief, 
from  a  friend  of  his,  we  ordered  the  carriage  to  be 
driven  up  to  the  house,  where  an  incident  oc- 
curred which  is  worthy  of  notice,  so  far  as  it  shows 
the  difference  of  the  native  character  when  acting 
under  restraint  and  when  guided  by  natural  impulse. 


■PRESENTATIOX  OF  A  LETTER.  187 

As  we  approaclied,  I  perceived  a  Javanese,  whom 
I  rightly  imagined  to  be  the  chief  himself,  talking 
to  a  European  gentleman.  I  alighted  when  the 
caiTiage  stopped,  and,  advancing  towards  him,  pre- 
sented my  letter.  To  my  surprise,  however, 
though  the  envelope  was  addressed  to  himself,  he 
handed  it  over  to  the  gentleman  beside  him.  The 
European  coolly  opened  it,  as  if  such  a  proceed- 
ing were  a  matter  of  course,  and,  after  glancing  at 
the  writinn; — not  one  word  of  which,  I  verilv  be- 
lieve.  he  understood,  as  it  was  all  in  Javanese — 
returned  it  to  the  rightfvd  owner,  who,  having  read 
the  whole,  said,  with  singular  coldness,  more 
freezing,  coming,  as  it  did,  from  a  native — from 
whom  we  iiad  hitherto  met  with  so  much  warmth 
of  heart  and  kindness — 

"There  is  a  biijeineiit  in  the  town — Tvian  can  go 
tliere ;  I  have  tlie  liesident  and  Contruleur  staying 
with  nie  now." 

"  Is  there  (     I  was  n<jt  aware  of  it,"  answered  I; 


188  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

and,  adding  a  tynmacasi,  or  "  thank  you,"  I  left  this 
inhospitable  chief,  and  drove  off  in  search  of  the 
logement. 

To  many  it  may  seem  curious,  nay,  even  pre- 
sumptuous, for  a  traveller,  though  furnished  with 
an  introductory  letter  from  a  friend,  to  drive 
straight  up  to  a  stranger's  house,  and  expect  him 
to  find  lodging  for  him  ;  but  in  Java  it  is  the 
custom  to  give  accommodation  for  days  together, 
especially  where  there  are  no  public  resorts  of  any 
kind  for  the  traveller  to  rest  in. 

On  arriving  at  the  logement,  I  perceived  it  was 
quite  a  new  building,  which  accounted  for  the 
friend  who  gave  me  the  letter  not  knowing  of 
its  existence.  AVe  were  glad  to  get  under  the 
verandah,  to  be  sheltered  from  the  ruin,  which  now 
began  to  fall  fast,  accompanied  by  vivid  flashes  of 
lightnino;. 

Here  we  were  pretty  comfortable,  the  fai'e, 
though  simple,  being  good  ;   and  in  the  anticipa- 


YOUNG  JAVANESE  CHIEF.  189 

tlon  of  to-morrow's  journey,  we  soon  forgot  the 
disagreeables  of  tlie  past  day. 

Before  we  retired,  a  handsome  young  Javanese 
cahed  and  asked  to  see  me,  announcing  himself  as 
the  son  of  the  chief  we  had  that  afternoon  seen. 
lie  was  accompanied  hy  a  small  suite  of  attend- 
ants, all  wearing  krisses,  who  sat  cross-legged  on 
the  floor,  and,  whenever  their  youthful  master 
accosted  one  of  them,  saluted  him  in  the  prayer- 
like manner  already  described. 

He  was  a  very  pleasant  gentleman,  and  showed 
a  great  /'enr/icotf  for  Bi'itisii  sovereigns,  about 
twenty  of  which  lie  wore  as  jacket  buttons.  As  1 
was  ratlu-r  at  a  loss  to  understand  the  purport  of 
his  visit,  J  bowed  to  him,  begged  him  to  take  a 
scat,  ami  waited  for  him  to  begin  the  conversation, 
wliicli  be  did  by  making  apologies  for  bis  father's 
coldness,  who,  tliat  dav,  be  said,  was  rather  /diia- 
noiKj  (meaning  out  of  bumour,  or  in  a  (biemma), 
in  conse(|uence  of  having  been  awakened  from  bis 


190  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

noonday  siesta  by  the  unexpected  aiTival  of  the 
Resident  and  the  Controleur.  His  own  house, 
he  added,  was  at  our  service  as  long  as  we  liked 
to  stay  in  Tuniungong. 

I  thanked  the  young  chief  for  his  kind  invitation, 
but  as  we  Intended  leaving  for  Wonosobo  early 
next  morning,  we  were  obliged  to  decline  it. 

Having  been  informed  by  the  landlord  that  I 
should  find  a  difHculty  in  procuring  horses  for  the 
journey,  1  asked  our  visitor  how  we  could  obtain 
them,  thinkino;  he  mio'ht  be  able  to  order  them 
for  me.  To  my  surprise,  spite  of  the  landlord's 
surmise  to  the  same  eifect,  I  was  told  that  two 
Government  officials  had  already  monopolised  every 
])o.st-horse  in  the  town,  a  right  which,  as  experience 
liad  on  one  or  two  occasions  before  taught  me,  they 
frequently  exercise  to  the  great  annoyance  of 
travellers. 

Whenever  these  Government  Amtanars  contem- 
plate a  tour  of  pleasure  or  duty,  all  consideration 


ARBITRARY  POSTING  ARRANGEMENT.        191 

for  travellers  appears  to  be  set  aside,  or  made  sub- 
servient only  to  their  will  and  convenience.  You 
may  happen  to  arrive  in  a  town  a  full  week  before 
these  functionaries,  but  if  previous  notice  has  been 
given  by  them  to  the  equerry  of  the  posts,  bidding 
him  keep  horses  in  readiness  for  their  appearance, 
woe  to  the  unfortunate  individual  who,  having 
enabled  you  to  continue  your  journey,  is  unable  to 
satisfy  their  demands.  The  traveller  must  patiently 
remain  in  the  town  till  they  return  from  their  in- 
spectio]!,  unless  he  can  manage  to  procure  coolies,  oj* 
buffaloes,  to  continue  his  journey.  This  arrange- 
ment is  undoubtedly  very  conducive  to  the  travel- 
ling comfort  of  Goverimient  servants  ;  but  it  is 
rather  arbitrary,  and  exceedingly  disagreeable  to 
travellers. 

As  horses  were  procurable  neither  for  love  nor 
money,  we  arranged  for  relays  of  coolies  to  j)ull 
our  carriage  to  W'onosobo,  its  next  destination, 
which   was   more   than   eiirhteen   miles   off.     This 


192  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

idea  was  a  novel  one,  and  far  from  pleasing  to 
us.  Loyalty  will  sometimes  lead  subjects  to  yoke 
themselves  to  the  carriages  of  monarchs,  but  I  am 
sure  even  the  greatest  enthusiasm  would  require 
horse  flesh  to  aid  human  power,  if  eighteen  miles 
of  hilly  road  were  to  be  traversed  with  a  heavy  car- 
riage, rightly  termed  a  Wagen. 

Next  morning  by  half -past  six,  twenty-five  coolies, 
headed  by  a  mandoer,  lashed  themselves  with  ropes, 
made  from  the  plantain  tree  and  rattan,  to  the  car- 
riage, and  with  loud  shouts  of  ayu !  ayu !  set  off 
with  a  run,  which,  before  long,  degenerated  into  a 
quick  march,  and  gradually  dwindled  down  to  a 
walk,  the  poor  men  all  the  time  good-humouredly 
talking,  laughing,  and  singing  snatches  of  native 
melodies. 

About  half  a  mile  from  Tumungong,  we  passed 
the  gates  of  the  town  limits,  surmounted  with  battle- 
axes,  which  are  the  arms  of  the  place.  Beyond 
these,  we  had  on  all  sides  extensive  fields  undergo- 


BUFFALOES.  193 

ing  the  operations  of  ploufifhing  and  irrirration.  As 
in  the  time  of  the  Buddhists,  the  only  animals  em- 
ployed for  this  heavy,  muddy  work  are  buffaloes  ; 
and  lazv  though  the  animal  seems,  it  is  astonishino- 
what  an  amount  of  work  lie  goes  through,  patiently 
toiling  on,  though  in  many  instances  subjected  to 
great  hardships  and  cruelties.  When  one  native 
quarrels  with  another,  and  desires  to  inform  him 
that  he  will  not  stand  any  ill  treatment,  he  uses 
this  quiet  beast  as  a  metaphor.  "  Don't  take  me 
for  a  b'uffalo,"  he  says ;  "  1  am  not  to  be  led  by  the 
nose."  In  some  of  their  legendary  tales,  this  modi' 
of  leading  the  lazy-paced  animal,  is  said  to  have 
been  adopted  in  consequence  of  his  having  refused 
to  (juit  the  world  with  Gragasi,  a  giant,  and  Singa, 
a  word  which  in  Sanscrit  means  lion.  These  two, 
determining  to  leave  a  ])lace  where  they  were  in 
daTiger  of  being  one  day  made  to  serve  mankind, 
endeavoured  to  persuade  some  other  animals  to 
follow  their  example,  and  such  as  refused  were 
VOL.  11.  0 


194  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

condemned  to  some  degradation.  Thus  the  horse 
was  fated  to  be  henceforth  ridden  or  driven,  the 
buffalo  to  be  led  by  the  nose,  and  the  ass  to  be  for 
ever  despised  and  tormented. 

Added  to  his  docility  and  gentleness,  the  buffalo 
is  an  inexpensive  animal  for  a  peasant  to  keep,  the 
food  he  consumes  being  chiefly  grass,  with  an  oc- 
casional mash  of  boiled  rice.  At  night  he  sleeps 
under  a  rough  attap  shed,  but  his  favourite  spot, 
when  he  is  fortunate  enough  to  have  a  master  who 
cares  for  his  comfort,  is  near  a  burning  pile  of 
leaves  and  rubbish,  which,  when  set  fire  to,  smoul- 
ders away  for  some  time,  keeping  the  tiresome 
mosquitoes  off.  When  the  poor  animal  is  no  longer 
of  any  use,  he  is  sold  to  a  butcher,  who  retails  the 
flesh  in  small  cpantities,  impaled  on  short  sticks 
like  hahauhs. 

Six  miles  from  Tumungong  we  stopped  at  the 
small  village  of  Kinang  Kudoe,  where  our  men  re- 
freshed themselves  with  rice  and  other  condiments, 


THE  PONIES  OF  MURGOWATTI.  195 

served  in  a  plantain  leaf.  After  this  simple  repast, 
they  uttered  their  usual  shout  of  cuju  !  ayu  !  and 
we  were  again  on  the  move. 

A  short  distance  beyond  this  village  the  mandoer 
pointed  to  two  hillocks  in  an  open  country  to  our 
left,  known  as  the  hills  of  Murgowatti,  and  famous 
for  the  ponies  bred  there  ;  which,  he  added,  owe 
their  strengtii,  agility,  and  swiftness  to  drinking 
from  a  certain  running  spring  on  the  slope  of  one 
of  the  hills,  said  to  have  been  the  fre([uent  resort 
of  Simbrani's  horses,  ''  the  bucket  used  Iiy  them, 
now  become  hard  as  stone,  being  still  to  be  seen." 

Our  roud,  after  leavin<£  these  famed  hills  be- 
hind,  began  to  be  very  stec]),  and  l.>v  the  time  we 
reached  J*aponan,  a  small  village  on  the  top  of  a 
hill,  we  were  two  hundred  and  iifty  feet  above  the 
town  of  Tumungong.  IK'i'e,  as  from  an  eagle's 
eyrie,  we  had  a  wide  bird's-eye  view  of  the  sur- 
rounding country.  Our  coolies,  relieved  by  others, 
here  also  received  their  money,  and  ran  down  tlu' 

0  2 


196  LIFE  IX  JAVA. 

hill,    slioutinrr    like    boys    released   from   school. 

We  came  next  to  the  little  hamlet  of  Gamoe, 
about  two  miles  and  a  half  from  Paponan.  Here 
we  were  shewn  two  spots,  to  both  of  which  a  tradi- 
tion is  attached.  The  first  was  the  cave  of  Gun- 
dohl,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  Gundohl, 
and  the  other  the  mound  of  Sukorini,  covered  with 
wild-looking  trees  and  shrubs. 

According  to  tradition,  the  king  of  some  part  of 
Java  being  dangerously  ill  with  a  tumour,  which 
baffled  the  skill  of  all  the  court  physicians  ta  cure, 
some  learned  men  who  were  near  at  hand  Avere 
consulted,  and  they  advised  that  his  majesty's  two 
sons,  Gundohl  and  Sukorini,  should  set  out  in 
search  of  some  healing  salve.  Nothing  loth,  the 
brothers  sallied  forth,  one  taking  a  northern,  and 
the  other  a  southern  direction,  Gundohl  diligently 
traversed  various  countries,  losing  not  a  single 
moment  of  his  waking  hours,  and  inquiring  of 
every   one   he    met    for   this   wonderful   specific ; 


JAVANESE  TRADITIOX.  197 

while  his  brotlier,  on  the  contrary,  soon  grow  weary 
of  a  journey  wliich,  as  he  thought,  would  prove  in- 
terminable, and  began  to  amuse  himself  on  the 
way,  squandering  his  money  in  extravagance  and 
dissipation ;  till,  at  last,  afraid  to  return  home,  he 
bethought  himself  of  turning  his  steps  northward 
in  search  of  his  brother. 

Gundohl,  in  the  meantime,  had  been  unremit- 
ting ill  his  inquiries  and  search  for  the  medicine, 
which  hitherto,  however,  had  proved  quite  fruitless. 
Arriving  one  day  at  a  river — which  now  bears  his 
name — he  laid  himself  down  on  the  bank,  and  was 
just  falling  asleej),  when  a  fear  of  alligators  cross- 
ing his  mind,  he  ])r()ceeded  farther  up  the  stream, 
till  lie  perceived  a  cave,  wliich  he  was  just  on  the 
j)oint  of  entering,  when  an  old  woman  suddenlv 
a])pcared,  saying  it  was  forbidden  ground,  being 
the  dwelling  of  a  Tiiaii  Patrie,  or  virgin  angel.  On 
hearing  the  words  of  the  old  woman,  ( lundolil 
told  her  he   would  not  attempt  to  intrude  on  the 


198  LIFE  IN  JAVA 

Tuan  Patrie's  privacy,  but  begged  for  a  handful 
of  rice,  -whicli  she  readily  gave  him.  Having 
eaten  it,  lie  fell  fast  asleep. 

The  duenna,  returning  to  the  cave,  found  the 
virgin  in  a  sound  slumber,  which  continued  for 
so  many  hours,  that  her  old  protector  began  to  feel 
quite  alarmed ;  but  at  last,  after  an  unusually  long 
sleep,  the  fair  damsel  started  up,  opened  her  eyes, 
and  said — 

"  Haste,  Minda,  call  the  youth  in  to  whom  you 
gave  the  rice  some  time  ago ;  I  saw  you  in  my 
dream,  and  I  am  told  that  this  young  man  is  sent 
hither  for  the  medicine  which  my  father  left  in  our 
charge." 

The  obedient  old  body  immediately  went  out, 
and  finding  Gundohl,  broui2;ht  him  to  the  Tuan 
Patrie,  Avho,  after  a  few  questions,  delivered  the 
medicine  to  him.  Instead  of  setting  off  at  once 
with  the  remedy,  the  young  man  delayed  from  day 
to  day,  till  he  and  the  virgin  angel  were  desperately 


JAVANESE  TRADITION.  199 

in  love  with  eacli  otlier,  and  a  day  was  fixed  for 
their  "vvedclino;.  Just  at  this  crisis  Sukorini,  who 
had  for  some  time  been  in  search  of  Gundold, 
made  liis  appearance,  and  was  informed  by  his 
elder  brother  of  his  success  in  the  discovery  of  the 
precious  medicine,  with  which  he  intended  to  return 
soon  after  his  n^iarriafi^e.  Sukorini,  who  was  full 
of  deceit  and  cunning,  feigned  great  joy  at  the 
success  of  his  brother,  Avho  vmsuspiciously  took 
him  to  the  spot  where  the  ])alni  was  concealed, 
and  showed  it  to  him. 

That  night,  when  the  inmates  of  the  cave  were 
wrapt  in  sleep,  Sukorini  crept  noiselessly  in,  and 
taking  the  medicine  from  its  hlding-])lace,  secured 
it  about  his  person,  and  fled  from  the  spot,  resting 
neither  night  nor  day  till  he  reached  the  palace  of 
tlu'  king,  his  father. 

(Jundohl  was  very  nuich  ainioyed  when  he  dis- 
covere(l  the  deceit  which  his  l)i'other  had  ])ractised 
up(jn  him,  and  repairing  instantlv  to  his  betrothed, 


200  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

he  acquainted  lier  with  his  loss,  and  intreated  her 
to  consent  to  an  immediate  marriage,  in  order  that 
she  might  accompany  him  to  his  father's  court,  to 
frustrate  the  wicked  designs  of  Sukorini,  who 
doubtless  hoped  to  supplant  him  in  his  father's 
affection. 

Tuan  Patrie  did  not  hesitate  a  moment  in  con- 
senting both  to  marry  him  and  to  accompany  him 
to  the  king,  thinking  that  probably  her  voice  might 
be  needed  to  confirm  Gundohl's  statement. 

In  the  meantime,  Sukorini's  arrival  had  been 
hailed  with  great  joy,  and  a  day  was  appointed  on 
which  a  large  number  of  courtiers  and  subjects 
were  to  assemble,  to  see  the  medicine  applied,  and 
the  king's  health  restored.  But  great  w^as  the  dis- 
*  appointment  of  all  present  when,  on  its  application 
at  the  appointed  time,  the  remedy  was  found  in- 
effectual. 

The  king,  still  suffering  from  his  malady,  grew 
sad,  having  now  lost  all  hope  of  ever  being  cured. 


JAVANESE  TKADITION.  201 

Sukorini  betrayed  ^'eat  astonishment  and  vexation, 
as  each  trial  was  followed  by  the  same  ill-success  ; 
and  the  courtiers,  doctors,  and  people  whispered 
together,  or  exchanged  glances  Avhich  seemed  to 
say,  "  I  am  not  surprised  ;  I  never  l)elieved  in  this 
tale  al)0ut  the  medicine,  it  was  only  told  to  divert 
the  mind  of  the  poor  king." 

At  this  moment  a  messenger  came  to  the  foot  of 
the  throne,  and  after  making  a  profound  obeisance, 
said  there  was  an  old  blind  man  at  the  palace  gate 
who  craved  leave  to  speak  a  few  words  to  his 
majesty. 

"  Let  him  be  admitted,"  said  the  king,  for  the 
old  man  was  a  well-known  seer,  and  much  resjn'cted 
by  all  the  coui't.  On  being  led  up  to  the  king,  he 
was  told  to  spt'ak,  and  stretching  out  his  wrinkled 
hand,  he  said,  in  a  tremulous  voice — 

"I'liou,  ()  king,  wilt  still  live — the  cm'e  is  indeed 
here,  but  it  has  been  served  with  foul  hands!" 

When   he  ceased   speaking,  as   though   to  gain 


202  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

time  for  breath,  a  murmur  of  displeasure  ran 
through  tlie  assembly,  and  man}!-  partisans  of  the 
young  prince,  avIio  were  anxious  that  he  should 
disinherit  the  rightful  heir,  advanced  to  check  the 
old  man ;  but  a  stern  glance  from  their  sovereign, 
who  took  upon  himself  to  answer  the  speech  of  the 
seer,  obliged  them  to  retire. 

"  Perhaps,  old  man,"  said  the  monarch,  mildly, 
"you  are  not  aware  that  the  young  prince  Sukorini 
was  the  bearer  of  the  medicine ;  you  dare  not 
impute  a  thought  of  dishonour  to  him?" 

"  I  was  perfectly  aware,  O  king,  of  this ;  and  if 
I  may  be  so  bold  as  to  ask  a  few  minutes'  con- 
versation with  him,  I  may  be  able  to  convince 
you  of  the  truth  of  my  statement,"  replied  the  old 
man. 

On  being  told  tliat  Sukorini  stood  near  him,  he 
asked  him  if  he  had  seen  his  brother  since  he  left 
the  court ;  and,  upon  the  prince  answering  in  the 
negative,  said : 


JAVANESE  TRADITION.  203 

'•'As  Allah  lives,  I  have  ;  this  day  a  younf^  man 
led  me  here — the  only  one  who  -svoiild  lend  me  any 
assistance,  whilst  evoiyone  else  I  asked  was  linrry- 
iiif^  to  the  palace,  and  would  not  stop  for  me — that 
young  man  is  thy  brother." 

Everyone  ])resent  began  to  think  the  old  man 
was  mad,  and  Sukorini  loudly  protested  against 
the  manner  in  which  he  had  been  spoken  of,  and 
entreated  his  father  to  have  the  seer  sent  away 
fi-om  the  palace.  But  the  king,  Avhosc  heart 
yearned  for  the  presence  of  his  good  and  favourite 
child,  paying  no  heed  to  these  outlnirsts,  com- 
manded that  the  young  man  who  had  accompanied 
the  venerabk'  seer  sliould  be  brought  before  him. 

ANlien  (iiuiddhl  entered,  he  was  so  disguised 
that  even  his  own  father  did  not  recognise  him  ; 
and  h''  ajiproaclicd  the  throne  amid  the  lialf-suj)- 
pre.ssed  jcrrs  of  the  asscinbU'd  nnikitudc  Per- 
ceiving at  a  glance  how  mattrrs  stood,  he  fi'h  that 
tiie  moment  was  a  critical  one  for  him.      Advanc- 


204  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

ing  boldly,  however,  lie  took  the  box  of  medicine, 
which  stood  on  a  table  close  by,  and  applying  some 
to  the  wound,  in  less  than  a  minute  the  king  stood 
up,  crying  out,  in  a  voice  of  great  joy,  that  he  was 
cured,  and  felt  perfectly  well.  Gundohl  then 
threw  off  his  disguise,  embraced  his  father,  and, 
turning  to  the  people,  was  as  loudly  cheered  and 
welcomed  as  he  had  before  been  jeered  at  and 
hooted.  Sukorini  was  banished  from  the  court ; 
and,  dying  in  poverty,  was  buried  under  the  mound 
which  now  bears  his  name.  Gundohl  and  his  wife 
lived  long  and  happily,  the  former  succeeding  to 
the  throne  on  the  demise  of  his  father. 

By  three  o'clock,  the  weatliei*,  which  had  been 
fine  all  day,  began  to  change — wind  and  rain 
making  the  air  damp  and  cold,  and  the  country 
cheerless  and  uninviting. 

We  arrived  at  the  village  of  Rotjo,  about  six 
miles  farther  on,  soon  after  the  rain  set  in,  and 
here  had  to  wait  a  full  hour  for  coolies,  who,  either 


TEDIOUS  JOURNEY.  205 

from  negligence  on  the  part  of  the  avant  courrier, 
who  was  sent  on  horseback  to  collect  them,  or  from 
their  own  dilatory  disposition  in  getting  ready, 
did  not  seem  in  the  least  prepared  for  the  journey. 

We  were  told  Ave  had  yet  six  miles  to  go,  and  as 
the  road  was  a  steep  ascent,  and  veiy  rough,  there 
was  every  chance  of  our  being  a  long  time  on  it. 
As  night  came  on,  we  began  to  think  of  the 
IJuddhist  saying,  "  that  when  it  grows  dark,  people 
think  of  housing  themselves."  But  we  had  little 
hope,  for  several  hours  yet,  of  finding  any  shelter 
except  what  the  carriage  afforded,  and  therefore 
resigned  ourselves  to  our  lot. 

Again  ami  again  Drahman  and  I  jum])ed  down 
ti)  Hghten  the  weight  and  lend  a  lielj)ing  hand;  but 
the  niglit  being  dark  and  gloomy,  the  route  seemed 
interminable.  The  torches  which  some  of  the  men 
held  were  cf)nst:nitly  extinguished  by  the  rain — all 
I  if  them  ijee()niin!j;  at  last  so  thoroughly  wet  that 
not  one  would  !)urn. 


206  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

About  midnight,  we  heard  the  joyful  sounds 
which  intimated  that  we  were  in  the  town  of 
Wonosobo.  We  drove  up  to  the  house  of  the 
Assistant-llesident,  where  the  comfort  we  met  with 
made  us  forget  in  part  the  tediousness  of  that  day's 
journey. 


CHAPTER  Vll. 


TOWN  OF  WOXOSOBO — EXCruSION  TO  TIIK  DIKNMf — LAKE  MEXD- 
JEIi — IIEAVV  RAIN — SHELTEIl — riilMITIVE  FIRE — VALLEY  OF 
THE  IJIEN'G — RUIN'S  OF  TEMl'LES^DAXGEliOUS  RESORT  FOR  A 
NIOHT'S  rest — HOT  Sl'IUXGS  LIKE  FOrXTAIN'S — P.ATOOIi, 
COLDNESS  OF  ITS  CLIMATE — AXCIEXT  ROAD  OR  COXDUIT — 
LAKE  OF  MANY  COLOCIIS — ^MELAXCHOl.V  DEATH  OF  A  COX- 
TROLEL'i: — XEW  TSE  FOR  A  llLAXKEl' — TIIUXDEIi-STOIi.M  — 
JAVAXESi:  IDEA  OF  IIIE  LAST  DAY — RULE  OF  THE  DCICIl 
FORETOLD — TEA  GOD<nVXS. 


209 


CHAPTER  VII. 

WoNOSOBO  is  ;i  small  town,  with  several  very 
pretty  European  houses,  and  an  extensive  tea 
godown.  It  is  situated  on  lii<^h  ground,  on  the 
sloj:)CS  of  which  are  rice  fields,  and  occasional  plan- 
tations of  trees.  Mountains  and  hills  are  seen  in 
all  directions,  the  former  particularly  beautiful. 
The  view,  as  seen  from  the  house  we  were  stay- 
ing at,  was  very  lovely,  reminding  one  more  of  a 
scene  in  Switzerhmd,  or  the  Tyrol,  than  the 
trojiics.  T'niikc  the  towns  and  villages  in  the  low 
hind,  Eiu'opeans  walk  about  iluring  tlie  day  with- 
(jut  any  solo-tojjcc,  or  umljrcjlla,  the  climate  being 
cool  and  agreeabh'. 

Our  reason  for  visiting  Wonosobo  was  to  make 
it  the.  startiug-])oint   for  the  Dieng,  which,  besides 

VOL.   II.  P 


210  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

being  one  of  the  most  elevated  situations  in  Java 
where  Buddhist  ruins  are  still  to  he  found,  is  a 
locality  teeming  with  a  greater  number  of  volcanic 
lakes  and  hot  springs,  within  a  limited  space,  than 
any  other  in  the  island. 

We  left  Wonosobo  early  in  the  morning  to  make 
our  excursion,  and  had  proceeded  about  two  or 
three  miles  in  the  carriage,  when  we  came  to  a 
stop  on  account  of  a  broken  bridge.  Here  horses 
and  coolies  were  in  readiness  to  take  us  on,  and 
mounting  the  former,  we  galloped  onwards  to  the 
lake  of  Mendjer.  The  tortuous  river  Srayu, 
rushing  several  feet  below  us,  enlivened  the  scene 
by  the  noise  it  made  in  dashing  against  the  dark 
brown  rocks  and  broken  spars  w^edged  in  between 
the  stones.  In  some  deeper  parts  it  flowed  on  in  a 
gentle  lull,  bending  in  its  course  the  grass  and 
leaves  which,  growing  Ijy  its  sides,  waved  gently 
under  the  influence  of  the  soft  breeze. 

Lake  Mendjer,  a  small  sheet  of  water,  is  situated 


LAKE  MEXDJER.  211 

immediately  at  the  foot  of  the  Gunong  Sorodjo, 
which  rises  three  hundred  feet  above  it.  The 
sides  of  this  mountain  abound  in  caves  both  large 
and  small,  looking  dark  and  gloomy  in  the  dis- 
tance. 

The  aspect  of  the  lake,  ■which  is  nearly  two 
miles  in  circumference,  is  sombre  and  dreary.  Its 
depth,  we  were  told,  is  unfathomable.  To  the  left 
of  the  lake  is  seen,  at  the  foot  of  a  chalky  escarp- 
ment, a  large,  deep  hole,  serving  as  an  outlet  to  the 
water,  mIucIi  ^^•ould  otherwise  overflow  during  the 
rainy  season. 

''  Xo  (jiie,"  said  the  Mandoer,  who  had  accom- 
panied us  as  guide,  in  a  low,  mysterious  tone,  "but 
Tuan  Allah  can  tell   where  the  water  <2;oes  to  from 

CD 

tliis  hole." 

Tliis  lake,  in  all  probabilitv,  has  at  one  time 
been  an  active  volcano,  which,  when  the  fire  was 
extinct,  becanu'  gradually  filleil  with  water. 

About    two    thousand    feet    aliove   the    Mendjer 

r  2 


212  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

but  completely  hidden  from  view  until  you  are 
close  upon  it,  is  the  Tologo  Cliabong,  the  lake  of 
Tadpoles,  situated  somewhat  similarly  to  the  one 
we  had  last  seen,  the  Gunong  Pkaoewodjo  in  this 
instance  being  the  name  of  the  hill  which  towers 
above  it. 

Sulphur,  from  this  hill  and  the  Mendjer,  oc- 
casionally impregnates  the  water,  its  inliuence 
lasting  sometimes  more  than  a  week,  during  which 
time  abundance  of  fish,  called  palong,  float  in  a 
lifeless  state  on  the  surface,  affording  both  amuse- 
ment and  profit  to  the  natives  of  the  surrounding 
districts  in  collecting  them. 

Quitting  this  curious  spot,  we  rode  on  for  some 
miles,  through  extensive  tea  plantations  and  wind- 
ing mountain  passes ;  the  rain,  which  began  to 
fall  soon  after  we  left  the  lake,  descending  in  tor- 
rents on  our  unprotected  heads.  After  a  long  ride 
we  arrived  at  a  little  hamlet,  and  took  shelter  in 
the  liouse  of  the  Pakal  Desar  (the  head  of  the  fields). 


A  STEEP  AND  SLIPPERY  ROAD.  213 

who  immediately  lit  some  fagots,  and  made  the 
best  fire  he  could  to  warm  and  chy  us.  As  the  fire 
was  on  the  ground  in  the  middle  of  the  floor,  we 
seated  ourselves  close  to  it.  The  poor  natives  also 
crouching  near  it  for  warmth,  we  looked  like  a 
group  of  Maories  holding  a  council  of  war. 

When  the  rain  began  to  clear  off  a  little,  we 
started  again.  The  road  now  being  very  steep  and 
slij)pery,  we  could  not  proceed  quite  so  rapidly  as 
before,  but  we  urged  our  horses  forward,  determin- 
ing not  to  lose  more  time  en  route  than  we  could 
help  ;  for  we  felt  thoroughly  chilled  by  the  cold, 
which,  in  conse(pience  of  the  rain,  and  our  being 
tlicn  about  eight  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  was  veiy  severe. 

As  we  ap])roachcd  the  Dieng  we  could  see,  on 
the  level  ytlain  below,  Wonosobo,  and  the  district 
of  Bagelang.  As  the  lofty  chain  of  Brambanan, 
with  their  summits  undistinguishable  amid  the 
(t](>uds,    rose    Ijcfore    us,   the  mountain   peaks  hid 


214  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

the  view  from  our  sight.  The  mountain  we  were 
on  was  called  the  Prau,  behind  which  were  various 
mountains  known  as  Talerep,  Sumbing,  and  Sin- 
doro,  &c.,  rising  to  different  heights. 

Our  route  was  a  very  wild  and  desolate  one,  the 
rough  path  sometimes  winding  immediately  above 
a  steep  precipice,  at  others  between  rocks  and 
mountains,  the  bases  of  which  were  encrusted  with 
sulphur,  and  full  of  holes  and  crevices,  from  many 
of  which,  as  from  the  vent  of  a  boiler,  smoke  or 
steam  was  puffing  out,  filling  the  air  with  strong 
sulphuric  smells ;  while,  in  accordance  with  the 
character  of  the  place,  a  kind  of  distant  rumbling 
noise  was  constantly  heard,  sometimes  increasing 
and  sometimes  decreasing,  but  never  subsiding 
until  we  had  nearly  reached  our  journey's  end. 

When  w^e  were  at  the  summit  of  the  Prau 
mountain,  the  guide  directed  our  attention  to  an 
opening,  whether  natural  or  artificial  I  cannot  say, 
in  the  shoulder  of  the  mountain,  from  which  we 


VALLEY  OF  THE  DIENG.         215 

looked  down  on  the  valley  of  the  Dieng,  about  a 
hundred  feet  below  us. 

To  our  left,  before  making  the  steep  descent 
into  the  valley,  I  saw  that  the  mountain  side  in 
one  part  was  embanked,  and  flagged  with  large 
slabs  of  granite,  in  which  ste])S  had  been  cut. 
Whether  these  stones  were  the  remains  of  walls  of 
protection,  which  had  fallen  back  and  become  im- 
bedded by  time  in  the  earth,  or  whether  they  had 
been  placed  there  to  prevent  the  slipping  of  sand 
and  stone  into  the  valley,  I  was  unable  to  learn; 
though,  from  the  fact  of  this  having  been  once  a 
place  of  importance  to  the  Buddhists,  the  former 
supposition  may  ])robably  be  the  most  correct. 

As  the  day  was  well-nigh  spent,  and  rain  again 
fell  in  torrents,  we  took  shelter  in  the  large,  cold 
I'assangrahan,  in  whieh  we  were  to  ])ass  the  night, 
and  from  it  we  looked  out  on  the  dreary  view  before 
us.  Tlie  valky  Iji'low  covers  an  area  of  about  a 
mile   in   circiunferi'nce,  a    ciiain   of    hills,  shaped 


216  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

almost  like  a  crescent,  forming  the  boundary  to  the 
left,  and  the  road  to  Batoor  that  to  our  right.  On 
this  plateau,  which  is  now  a  complete  swamp,  and 
covered  in  many  parts  with  blocks  of  stone,  we  saw 
the  ruins  of  five  small  temples,  built  with  hewn 
trachyte,  ornamented  with  a  few  decorations,  which 
time  and  the  climate  had  here  and  there  permitted 
to  remain.  Behind  these  temples  is  the  remains  of 
a  road,  which  had  formerly  been  paved,  leading  to 
a  larger  temple  on  the  brow  of  a  hill.  There  are 
numerous  other  small  ruins,  the  stones  of  which 
they  were  built  being,  in  some  places,  thickly  strewn 
about.  Indeed,  the  remains  of  buildings  are  so 
numerous,  that  the  whole  place  has  the  aspect  of  a 
town  razed  to  the  ground.  Whether  these  ruined 
buildings  were  once  habitable  houses,  or  only  tem- 
ples, as  the  name  Chundi  Dieng  signifies,  it  would 
be  impossible  to  determine.  Coins,  rings,  bracelets, 
and  other  ornaments,  are  frequently  picked  up 
amongst  the  rubbish ;  and,  in  fact,  I  had  previously 


THE  TOLOGO  LERI.  217 

seen  many  such  articles  which  I  had  been  tohl 
were  found  here. 

The  Tologo  Leri,  the  latter  name  meaning  water 
in  which  rice  has  been  washed,  is  between  two  and 
three  miles  to  the  east  of  the  Passangralian.  Our 
way  to  it  lay  under  the  Prau  and  Mondrobo  moun- 
tains. The  lake  lies  in  a  shallow  basin,  surrounded 
by  hills ;  and  the  water  is  of  such  a  milky  colour 
that  the  native  name  of  Leri  is  most  applicable.  It 
seemed  to  bo  in  a  boiling  heat,  the  steam  rising 
thick  and  buljbling,  as  though  over  a  large  fire. 

Continuing  our  route,  we  came  to  a  small  village, 
at  which  we  dismounted  from  our  horses,  and  then 
ascended  on  foot  to  the  ridge  of  a  deep  hollow,  called 
IVkareman,  situated  under  the  Gunong  Giemat,  a 
j)art  of  the  Prau  cliain.  This  hollow  is  a  liundred 
feet  in  dci)th,  with  a  dried-up  bed  about  thirty  feet 
in  diameter,  coated  witii  a  reddish  brown  mould. 

The  Wodono  told  us  that  at  one  extremity  of  the 
hollow  there  is  a   noxious  escaj)e  of  gas  at  certain 


218  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

seasons  of  the  year,  the  effects  of  which  would  be 
fatal  to  any  person  who  ventured  too  near.  As  the 
vapour  was  now  escaping,  the  Wodono,  to  prove 
the  truth  of  his  statement  ])y  actual  experience, 
procured  some  fowls  to  throw  in.  The  first  bird 
no  sooner  found  itself  at  liberty,  than  it  ran  in 
an  opposite  direction,  and  did  not  stop  until  it 
reached  some  brushwood,  under  which  it  crept, 
and  soon  vanished  from  sight.  The  second  was 
not  so  fortunate,  being  thrown  more  directly  over 
the  fatal  spot.  The  moment,  however,  it  regained 
its  feet,  it  attempted  to  rush  up  the  mountain  side, 
as  though  some  evil  genii  were  at  its  heels.  But 
before  many  seconds  had  elapsed,  the  whole  neck 
and  head  seemed  suddenly  convulsed,  and  flapping 
its  wings  in  agony,  it  rolled  over  and  expired. 

Natives,  when  afflicted  with  melancholy,  ati  bin- 
(joong,  repair  to  this  spot  to  try  their  luck.  If  their 
low  spirits  arise  from  the  frustration  of  any  desired 
object,  they  sleep  near  the  lake  a  whole  night,  and 


CnONDERO  DI  MOEKO.  219 

if  they  live  to  see  the  light  of  the  following  day, 
they  feel  assured  of  gaining  the  ohject  of  their 
wish.  If,  on  the  contrary,  the  poor,  credulous  in- 
dividual hreathes  his  last  before  the  morning 
breaks,  his  death  is  attributed,  not  to  the  gas,  but 
to  the  vengeance  of  a  Pungooroo,  or  evil  spirit. 

Prosecuting  our  excursion  still  further,  we  went 
to  see  another  lake,  or  rather  pond,  called  Chondero 
dl  Moeko.  It  covers  a  space  of  about  twenty  feet, 
and  its  waters  flow  away  in  a  narrow  streamlet 
which  runs  steamin<j;  alono;.  Near  the  centre  we 
saw  three  or  four  jets,  like  fountains,  the  boiling 
water  rising  to  fully  four  or  fi\e  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  jx^nd,  and  the  hot  spray  falling  around. 
The  margin  and  sides  consisted  of  soft,  hot  mud, 
suljihurcous  deposits,  and  small  blocks  of  limestone, 
which,  from  time  t(j  time,  had  lieeu  ejected  witli 
the  water.  At  a  short  <Ustance  are  two  small  ori- 
fices vomiting  fortii  boiUng  nuiddv  Ihilds,  and  from 
tlie  sides  of  a  rock,  not  many  yards  off,  \ohunes  of 


220  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

water  were  gushing  forth  with  a  tremendous  force, 
foaming  like  a  troubled  sea.  These  phenomena  of 
nature,  accompanied  by  a  continuous  rolling  sub- 
ten'anean  noise,  together  with  the  indescribably- 
wild  character  of  the  scenery,  struck  us  with 
Avonder  and  awe ;  and,  after  having  seen  all,  we 
were  not  sorry  to  turn  our  backs  on  a  locality  so 
startling. 

In  perfect  contrast  to  the  scene  thus  described, 
was  the  lake  which  we  were  next  shown,  about  a 
mile  from  Chondero  di  Moeko,  called  Sumoor 
Tjototundo,  which  is  situated  higher  up  the  Prau, 
at  the  foot  of  a  tall  peak,  and  surrounded  by  tro- 
pical trees  and  vegetation.  So  quiet  is  the  scene, 
so  calm  the  sheltered  waters,  that  our  approach 
seemed  the  only  sign  of  life;  and  so  still  was  every- 
thing, that  one  might  well  have  fancied  that  the 
trees  and  their  briijht-tinted  fo]iao;e  had  all,  with 
the  lake  beneath,  been  petrified  by  the  touch  of 
some  fairy's  wand. 


GLIMPSE  OF  BATOOR.  221 

All  these  lakes  and  sprinf]^s,  being  situated  with- 
in two  or  three  miles  of  each  other,  and  chiefly  on 
or  near  the  Prau  mountain,  form  an  easy  day's  ex- 
cursion from  the  Passangrahan  at  Dieng. 

We  stopped,  on  our  way  back,  to  obtain  a  glimpse 
of  Batoor,  which  is  six  miles  from  Dieng.  It  is 
situated  on  the  spur  of  a  low  mountain  of  the  same 
name,  and  is  remarkable  for  some  ruins,  and  a 
small,  unmixed  Chinese  population,  who  go  about 
in  furs  throughout  the  year,  no  Javanese  caring  to 
reside  there,  on  account  of  the  cold. 

As  we  approached  the  Dieng,  on  our  return,  I 
perceived  .several  low  })lllars  standing  at  e((ui-dis- 
tances  frcjiu  each  other,  and  extending  in  an 
o])li(jue  line  frc)m  the  road  to  the  tenij)les.  The 
surface  of  the  ground  on  which  they  stood  was  con- 
vex, ;iud  overgrown  with  tliick  grass,  under  which 
it  seems  ])robabl(^  there  was  once  a  subterranean 
|)assag( — -sucli,  at  least,  was  the  AVodono's  opinion. 
The  ancients,  he  added,  nsetl  to  tether  elephants  to 


222  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

these  pillars.  On  entering  into  conversation  with 
the  Wodono,  he  told  me  that  the  great  battle, 
known  in  Javanese  history  as  the  Brotoyudo,  took 
place  here.  The  storj  of  this  battle  may  be  told 
in  very  few  words.  Ardjiino,  the  brother  of  Biemo, 
became,  on  the  death  of  his  father  Pandu,  the  heir 
to  the  whole  Dieng,  but,  being  too  young  to 
manage  his  own  affairs,  they  were  intrusted  to  the 
care  of  an  elder  member  of  the  family,  who,  giving 
offence  to  Ngastino,  king  of  the  country  now  called 
Pekalongan,  this  sovereign  marched  with  a  great 
force  up  the  Prau,  and,  before  many  days,  Drought 
desolation  to  the  once  populous  town  of  Dieng. 
After  this  it  became  a  penal  settlement,  or  land  of 
exile,  for  the  refractory,  who,  during  the  period  of 
their  banishment,  erected  these  temples  to  expiate 
tlieir  crimes. 

Xext  morning,  after  an  early  breakfast,  we  rode 
to  the  Talogo  Warno,  a  lake  of  many  colours, 
about  a  mile  beyond  the  Dieng,  in  an  opposite  di- 


LAKE  WARXO.  223 

rection  to  those  we  liacl  seen  before.  On  our  way 
we  passed  by  tlie  temple  of  Biemo,  or,  as  he  is  also 
called,  yiukudoro  and  Sana.  This  fane  is  on  a 
hill  to  the  right  of  the  road,  and  is  more  perfect 
than  any  of  the  others  on  the  plateau.  The  lake 
Warno  is  at  the  base  of  the  Brambanan  moun- 
tains, and  is  about  three  hundred  yards  long, 
covered  in  part  with  rushes.  The  water  presented 
a  diversity  of  colours  truly  extraordinary.  One 
portion  was  bright  yellow,  another  a  beautiful 
emerald  green,  another  light  blue,  then  rose,  orange, 
and  milky  white,  the  various  hues  gradually  pass- 
ing into  each  other.  We  could  not  attribute  this 
wonderful  effect  to  atmosplieric  influence,  for  we 
were  told  that  the  lake  was  always  the  same  during 
the  dry  and  wet  monsoons. 

Three  black  ducks  were  the  only  living  objects 
we  saw,  which,  to  juilge  froni  their  glossy  plumage, 
seemed  to  thrive  well  in  these  sulphureous  regions. 

Fi'om   iiere   we  walked   to   the    Chundi    Bumie, 


224  LIFE  IX  JAVA. 

a  temple  above  thirty  feet  high,  the  style  of  archi- 
tecture differing  slightly  from  that  of  those  we  had 
seen  in  the  valley.  In  the  four  facades  of  the  tower, 
besides  several  empty  niches,  are  recesses  still  filled 
with  monstrous-shaped  heads.  A  good  view  of  the 
Dieng,  with  its  temples,  and  of  other  mountains  in 
the  neighbourhood,  also  crowned  with  sacred 
buildings,  is  obtained  from  this  position. 

The  clouds,  which  for  some  time  had  looked 
dark  and  lowering,  now  rained  down  upon  us  such 
a  pelting  shower,  that  we  urged  our  horses  on  to  a 
brisk  pace,  in  order  that  we  might  see  all  there  was 
to  be  seen,  and  return  as  soon  as  possible  to  the 
Dieng.  After  a  tedious  series  of  ascents  and 
descents,  we  at  length  arrived  at  the  Kawa 
Kedung,  a  hot  muddy  valley  between  the  Bram- 
banan  and  Modrodo.  The  base  of  the  latter  moun- 
tain is  thickly  encrusted  with  sulphureous  matter, 
running  down  like  lava  from  the  crevices  on  its 
sides,  accompanied  at  intervals  with  dense  volumes 


PAINFUL  INCIDENT.  225 

of  smoke,  and  a  rumbling  noise,  so  deafening  that 
we  had  to  speak  very  loudly  in  order  to  hear  each 
other. 

About  the  middle  of  this  steaming  valley  is 
seen  a  slough,  or  pond,  from  which  a  spring,  con- 
stantly bubbling,  spouts  volumes  of  boiling  water 
into  the  air.  There  are  also  smaller  pools  near 
it.  The  whole  scene  is  indescribably  dreary  and 
melancholy,  rendered  more  so  by  its  association 
with  a  sad  event. 

A  controlcur  who  had  visited  this  spot,  being 
desirous  of  making  an  accurate  sketch  of  the  hot 
springs,  ventured  most  rasjdy  to  walk  across  u 
jiortion  of  a  pool  wliich  aj)i)eared  to  him  perfectly 
safe.  He  ]ia<l  nf)t  proceeded  many  steps,  however, 
before  th(,'  around  be<j;;ni  to  iiive  wav  under  him, 
and  he  sank  up  to  his  waist  in  boih"ng  nuid,  suljduir, 
and  water.  His  friend,  and  tlie  natives  present, 
span-d  no  effort  to  extricate  liini  from  his  [)erik>us 
])f)>ition,  anil  after  con^ideraljItMliflicukv,  and  u'lvat 
VOL.    II.  Q 


226  LIFE  IX  JAVA. 

risk  to  tlieir  own  lives,  succeeded  in  doing  so,  and 
conveyed  him  immediately  to  the  hospital  of 
Wonosobo,  where  the  wretched  sufferer  lingered  in 
great  agony  for  a  few  hours,  and  expired,  the  lower 
portion  of  his  person  having  been  literally  boiled. 
When  his  boots  were  drawn  off,  the  flesh  fell  off 
with  them,  leaving  only  the  bare  bones,  so  complete 
had  been  the  work  of  destruction  in  so  short  a  space 
of  time. 

On  our  return  we  took  a  hasty  lunch,  and  started 
for  Wonosobo.  As  we  had  not  provided  ourselves 
with  any  waterproof  clothing,  a  most  essential  de- 
sideratum for  Oriental  excursions,  we  followed  the 
example  of  our  attendants,  and  borrowed  blankets 
from  the  villagers.  These  we  wore  doubled  in  two, 
a  handkerchief  being  passed  between  the  folds, 
the  ends  of  which  served  as  strings  by  which 
to  tie  them  round  the  neck.  Thus  each  blan- 
ket was  converted  into  an  admirable  cloak,  and 
proved    almost    as   impervious   to   the    wet  as    a 


CURIOUS  NATIVE  BELIEF.  227 

Macintosh,  and  certainly  much  warmer.  The 
rain,  wliicli  only  drizzled  when  we  left  the 
Passan^rahan,  poured  down  in  torrents  soon  after 
we  lost  sight  of  the  gap  leading  to  the  Dieng. 
Vivid  flashes  of  lightning  followed  each  other  in 
quick  succession,  and  when  the  thunder  rolled,  the 
mountains,  which  hemmed  us  in  on  either  side,  re- 
verberated its  sound,  each  time  ai)j)arently  louder 
and  nearer  than  the  last.  No  one  seemed  to  be  in 
a  talkative  humour  as  we  descended,  the  grandeur 
of  the  scene  having  awed  us  into  silence. 

It  began  to  clear  up  just  before  we  reached  the 
vilhige  at  which  we  st()p[)e(l  on  ascending  ;  and  tin- 
AVodiHio  seemed  more  lively  and  anxious  to  con- 
verse. He  t(jld  me  a  cuiMCius  native  belief,  which, 
h(.'  said,  was  menti(jned  in  their  Koralum,  or  holy 
book — namely,  that  the  Island  of  Java,  from  its  vol- 
canic natni\',  would  betlu-  first  ])lace  in  the  world  to 
ignite  at  the  last  dav  ;  but  that  the  native's  were  to 
be  ke]it  in  a  safe  ])laee  until    the  conflagration  was 

q2 


228  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

over,  when  tliey  shoiild  return  as  masters  of  the 
whole  island. 

In  speaking  of  Javanese  prosperity  under  the 
Dutch  rule,  as  compared  with  their  abject  state 
when  governed  by  native  princes,  whose  ambition 
and  tyranny  frequently  knew  no  bounds,  the  Wo- 
dono  said  that  the  conquest  and  occupation  of  Java 
by  the  Dutch  was  foretold  in  the  books  of  the  kings 
of  Modjophait. 

"  We  are  told  to  look  up  to  them,"  said  he,  "  as 
our  fathers;  and  as  they  were  predestined  to  be  our 
rulers,  we  are  commanded  to  render  them  hormald, 
not  only  as  a  mark  of  respect  to  them,  but  as  a 
])art  of  our  own  faith.  To  show  you,  sir,  that  the 
Iving  of  Holland  is  related  to  our  ancient  line  of 
kinofs,  we  find  a  tale  which  1  Avill  relate  to  you  from 
one  of  the  sacred  books.  A  king  of  Modjophait 
had  a  daughter  who  was  very  beautiful,  but 
arHicted  with  an  incurable  disease,  which  the 
father  considered  a  stiiima  on  the  roval  blood.     He 


PROPHECY  FULFILLED.  229 

ordered  the  poor  girl  to  be  taken  out  in  a  boat  into 
the  open  sea,  and  there  left  alone,  to  drift  into 
some  friendly  harbour  or  perish.  For  two  days 
the  frail  l)ark  floated  at  the  mercy  of  the  wind  and 
waves,  but  on  the  third  day  it  was  espied  by  the  ca])- 
tain  of  a  vessel,  on  board  of  which  was  a  European 
king.  The  captain  turned  his  ship's  head  imme- 
diately in  the  direction  of  the  little  boat,  which  he 
soon  reached  ;  and  every  one  on  board  was  asto- 
nished to  find  in  it  only  a  young  girl,  who,  the 
boat  having  neither  sail,  oar,  nor  rudder,  was  drift- 
ing lielj)less  on  the  waters.  The  Euro]>ean  king, 
notwithstanding  the  objection  of  some  of  the  crew, 
who  said  this  must  be  an  onoxj  ai/u,  or  mermaid, 
bad  the  boat  iiauled  alongside,  its  inmate  taki-n  on 
board,  and  kindly  treated.  On  arriving  in  Euroj)*; 
the  monarch  jilaced  the  ^«//ri>,  or  virgin,  under  tiie 
rare  of  a  Icarn(Ml  man,  who  soon  healed  the  diseas(> 
under  which  slie  hail  been  labonring.  When  she 
was  restored  to  perfect  health  he  married  ber  to  his 


230  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

own  son,  who,  on  the  demise  of  his  father,  ascended 
the  throne.  The  white  king  was  doubtless  the 
King  of  Holland ;  and  thus  one  of  our  old  sayings, 
which  in  olden  times  puzzled  the  heads  of  priests 
and  learned  men,  is  now  fulfilled :  '  The  patme^ 
though  a  castaway,  will  eventually  sway  the  sceptre 
of  Java.'" 

This  cunningly-devised  story,  as  will  be  observed, 
might  apply  equally  well  to  any  European  nation, 
but  one  cannot  help  admiring  their  adroitness  in 
concluding  it  to  moan  the  one  to  whose  rule  they 
are  compelled  to  svibmit.  The  sacred  books,  called 
the  Joyoboyo,  appear  to  have  been  written  by  the 
Sultan  Agong,  some  of  whose  sayings,  or  prophe- 
cies, have  come  true,  or,  at  least,  have  met  with 
wonderful  coincidences,  whilst  othei's  are  still 
shrouded  in  mystery. 

When  we  came  in  view  of  Wonosobo  and 
Bafjelano;,  we  found  the  sawahs  so  numerous,  and 
so  swollen  with  rain,  that,  from  a  distance,  they 


TEA  GODOWNS.  231 

looked  like  a  succession  of  lakes,  one  above  the 
other.  Any  one  who,  unaware  of  the  manner  of 
cultivating  rice,  had  looked  down  upon  them  as  we 
did,  would  have  concluded,  from  the  quantity  of 
water  in  every  direction,  that  there  had  been  very 
extensive  inundations. 

Before  leaving  Wonosobo,  we  went  to  see  the 
tea  godowns.  So  much  has  been  said  and  written 
about  the  planting  and  preparing  of  tea,  that  it 
would  be  supei-fluous  in  me  to  make  any  remarks 
about  it.  Indeed,  I  think  we  only  require,  now, 
to  be  taught  how  to  gwto  the  plant  in  our  native 
soil,  in  order  to  produce  as  good  tea  as  Jolm 
Chinaman,  and  thus  become  independent  of  his 
yearly  exports  I 

The  regular  process  is  gone  through  at  tlie  go- 
downs.  The  tea  is  dried  and  rendered  fit  for  ex- 
portation to  Holland,  where  it  is  used  to  mix  with 
pure  China.  The  leading  evqiloijts  are  Chinese, 
who  seem  to  be  considered  indispensable  as  super- 


232  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

intendents  in  this  peculiar  business.  The  flavour 
of  Java  tea  bears,  however,  no  comparison  with 
that  of  Bohea,  Souchong,  or  Pekoe ;  but  whether 
this  deficiency  is  attributable  to  a  reluctance  on 
the  score  of  Chinamen  to  impart  to  fanquis,  or 
strangers,  the  mysteries  of  their  flavouring  art,  or 
to  the  difference  of  soil  and  climate,  I  was  not  in- 
formed. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


LEAVE  FOR  BAXD.JARXEGARA — HOSPITABLE  NATIVE — HIS  MT- 
SEUM — BREAKFAST  WITH  THE  JAVANESE  REGENT — LATE  IN- 
LWDATIOXS — ARRIVE  AT  TJILATJAP — GOOD    HARBOUR — SALT 

DEPOT — THE   FOP.T — STALACTITE    GROTTOES ADJIBAKENC 

CfRIOUS  MISTAKE — -TAGAI. CHERIBOX CURIOUS  BUILDINGS 

— COOL  SLKEl>IX(f  ROOM — PROCEED  TO  SAMADANG — FROM 
THENCE  TO  liAXDOXG — TAKOE  BEX  PRAU — DESCENT  INTO  OXE 
OF  THE  CRATER.S— JAVAXESE  VEXERATIOX  FOR  THEIR  CHIEFS 

— f)UR  rees-wa(;ex. 


235 


CHAPTER  YIII. 

The  next  route  we  proposed  takinf^  was  to 
Tjilatjap,  via  Bandjarnegara  and  Banjoemas.  A 
drive  of  thirty  miles,  through  a  hilly  country  and 
sandy  districts,  shaded  by  thick  groves  of  betel-nut 
and  cocoa-nut,  brought  us  to  the  Ivegent's  house  at 
Bandjarnegara.  We  found  this  gentleman  a  most 
hospitable  host,  and  quite  a  Javanese  virtuoso ; 
having  a  museum  in  his  house,  filled  with  an 
envial)le  collection  of  anti(juities  from  the  Dieng, 
and  other  localities,  cousistiug  of  cooking  utensils, 
round  trays,  adorned  with  embossed  figures,  some 
of  which  resembled  those  representing  tlie  signs  of 
the  zodiac  on  an  old  bronze  cup  which  1  ob- 
tained whilst  at  Djokdja.      Some  of  these   ancient 


236  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

articles   are  not    vinlike  those  we  ourselves   have 
adopted  from  the  Romans. 

By  six  o'clock  next  morning  Ave  were  on  our 
way  to  Banjoemas,  a  town  in  tlie  Residency  of  the 
same  name.  The  roads  on  this  route  were  very 
heavy  and  hilly,  in  consequence  of  which  buffaloes 
were  again  brought  into  requisition.  When  we 
arrived,  we  drove  up  to  the  house  of  the  Regent, 
with  whom  we  breakfasted.  Radhen  Adipatti 
Jakra  Negara,  for  such  was  his  name,  spoke  with 
great  pride  of  the  visit  of  Sir  Stamford  Raffles  to 
his  father,  which  he  well  remembered,  his  present 
house  being  then  in  course  of  completion.  What 
struck  his  then  boyish  mind  was  the  manner  in 
which  the  active  governor,  in  some  mountain  ex- 
cursions they  made,  outstripped  his  suite  of  gentle- 
men and  attendants. 

We  were  informed  by  him  that  Banjoemas  had 
recently  been  the  scene  of  fearful  inundations,  in 
consequence  of  the  river  Serayu  having  overflowed 


DISASTROUS  INUNDATION.  237 

its  banks,  altliouo;li  forty  feet  in  lieif^ht.  The  in- 
habitants were  quite  taken  by  surprise,  the  water 
risinr^  so  rapidly  in  many  places  that  they  had  to 
swim  to  house-tops,  trees,  &c.,  and  there  wait  to  be 
])icked  up  by  some  more  fortunate  neighbour  who 
had  succeeded  in  obtaining  boats.  Three  hundred 
lives  were  lost,  besides  a  fpiantity  of  cattle  and 
goods  of  various  kinds.  Some  Europeans,  amongst 
whom  were  the  liesident  and  his  wife,  were 
obliged  to  seek  a  safe  retreat  in  the  top  story  of 
their  lu)uses,  where  for  a  few  days  they  subsisted 
on  the  scanty  food  they  had  seized  in  their  hurried 
flight  uj)-stairs. 

Though  a  few  montlis  had  elajised  since  this 
disastrous  occurrence,  munlstakeable  trai-es  of  its 
sad  effects  were  still  (jbserv;d)le  in  the  ruined  huts, 
orchai-ds,  and  gi'ass  land,  the  lattei"  being  of  a  sickly 
ycil(jw  colour,  while  the  boughs  of  tJK'  fruit-trees 
were  bi'oken  by  t!ie  wriglit  of  the  wati'r. 

Another   di'l\c   of   the   -anie    l-nutli   as  the  last 


238  LIFE  IX  JAVA. 

carried  us  through  flat,  uninteresting,  sandy 
country ;  the  open  and  exposed  route  being  occa- 
sionally sheltered  by  groves  of  teak.  Crossing  the 
river  Serayu,  we  arrived  at  Tjilatjap,  a  small  sea- 
port town  situated  at  the  bend  of  a  bay  in  the 
Indian  Ocean,  opposite  the  little  island  of  Nousa 
Kambungan.  Its  harbour  bears  the  palm  before 
all  others  in  Java,  as  the  safest,  the  deepest, 
and  most  accessible  place  of  refuge  in  stormy 
weather. 

The  town,  which  is  neatly  planned,  is  an  exten- 
sive government  salt  depot  for  the  southern  pro- 
vinces of  Java — the  salt  being  conveyed  here  by 
vessels  from  the  mines  of  Sumanup  in  Madura. 
It  also  serves  as  a  penal  settlement  for  native 
criminals.  The  chief  attraction  of  the  place  is  its 
proximity  to  the  island  of  Nousa  Kambungan,  on 
wdiich  are  some  beautiful  stalactite  caverns,  and  a 
fort  called  Karang  Bolong,  commanding  the  south- 
east passage. 


THE  GIBRALTAR  OF  THE  EAST.  239 

The  harbour  is  like  a  miniature  lake,  the  entrance 
at  the  west  being  completely  hidden  by  projections 
of  land  from  the  island  and  mainland  ;  and  that  at 
the  east  only  just  sufficiently  open  to  enable  one  to 
catch  a  glimpse  of  the  sea  beyond.  Nousa  Kam- 
bungan  is  about  fourteen  miles  in  length,  and  very 
hilly ;  but  the  eye  seeks  in  vain  for  a  barren  spot, 
all  being  clothed  with  a  varied  combination  of  the 
most  luxuriant  foliage,  extending  from  the  hill-tops 
to  the  margin  of  the  water. 

The  fort  is  at  the  eastern  point  of  the  island, 
overlooking  the  sea,  and,  being  built  on  the  shelf 
of  a  rock,  is  considered  by  Dutchmen  as  the 
(libraltar  of  the  East.  As  there  are  more  ways 
than  one  by  whicli  an  enemy  could  get  to  the  rear 
of  it,  from  adjacent  enunenccs,  and  literally  look 
down  into  the  stronghold,  1  could  not  exactly  see 
what  tli(.y  could  say  to  an  attac;k  h'oui  that  (piarter; 
but  that,  I  w;is  infonucfl,  was  rendereil  imjxis.silde 
bv   another   furt  in  the  middle  of  the  island,  called 


240  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

Bangoe  Njappa.  Being  no  strategist,  I  yielded  to 
their  better  judgment  on  such  matters. 

The  name  Karang  Bolong  is  derived  from  a 
Koche  Percee,  which  stands  prominently  in  the  sea 
a  short  distance  from  the  fort,  whose  walls  are  very 
thick,  and  within  which  there  is  plenty  of  accom- 
modation for  men,  provisions,  and  ammunition,  to 
stand  out  a  lengthened  siege,  an  event  which  I 
hope  heaven  may  long  forbid. 

Returning  from  the  fort,  and  sailing  a  short  dis- 
tance beyond  the  town,  we  came  to  the  Grotto  of 
Lusumb  Buntoo,  which  we  reached  by  ascending 
a  path  cut  through  the  wood.  The  entrance  is 
small,  and  thickly  surrounded  by  trees.  On  pass- 
ing in,  we  found  ourselves  in  the  most  spacious- 
looking  grotto  I  ever  remember  to  have  seen.  The 
iioor  in  part  is  formed  of  stalagmite,  and  from  the 
vaulted  summit  or  roof  of  the  cave  and  the  sides 
hung  most  beautiful  stalactites,  like  rich  drapery, 
j)ure  white,  and  glittering  in  many  parts  like  dia- 


CURIOUS  FISH.  241 

monds.  Numbers  of  columns,  some  perfect,  others 
broken,  were  to  be  seen  on  all  sides,  several  en- 
crusted with  stalactites  presenting  the  appearance 
of  bunches  of  grapes  or  the  leaves  of  trees.  As 
we  advanced  farther  in  we  found  almost  a  perfect- 
shaped  dome,  from  the  outer  edge  of  which  were 
suspended  stalactites  resembling  a  fringe  of  icicles. 
Tlie  men  who  accompanied  us  lit  some  damar 
torches,  the  effect  of  which  was  startling  and 
grand. 

Before  we  entered  the  boat  to  return,  the  men  gave 
us  some  curious  fish  which  they  had  just  cauglit, 
called  by  the  natives  cuda  and  sapi  laot,  sea-horse 
and  sea-cow.  The  foriner  we  have  all  most  pro- 
bably seen,  but  the  latter  1  never  saw  before  they 
were  shown  to  me  in  Java.  It  is  a  small  fish, 
very  thick  in  the  body,  wliich  in  form  is  almost 
the  /(i.c  simile  of  a  cow's  head  and  neck,  even  to 
two  small  hoi'ns  which  crown  its  head.  It  has 
two  fins  at  the  sides  and  one  at  the  end  of  it.'^ 
VOL.   II.  U 


242  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

short  body — its  chief  distinguishing  marks  as  a 
fish.  About  a  mile  and  a  half  from  this  grotto 
are  two  small  ones,  which,  the  stalactites  having 
formed  themselves  into  shapes  somewhat  similar 
to  a  chair  and  a  tomb,  are  respectively  called  the 
pulpit  and  the  grave  of  Jacob,  The  tradition 
attached  to  the  island  of  Nousa  Kambungang  is 
curious  and  amusing.  It  is  said  that  this  island 
was  formerly  a  part  of  the  Gunong  Slamat,  but 
in  consequence  of  the  encroachments  of  the  sea  on 
this  part  of  Java,  the  waters,  as  the  natives  terra 
it,  "  eating  the  coast,"  it  was  thought  necessary  to 
place  some  barrier  to  the  rapid  advances  of  the 
ocean.  Accordingly  some  genii  devoted  to  the 
service  of  the  natives  brought  away  a  portion  of 
the  Gunong  Slamat,  and  planted  it  where  the 
island  now  stands,  thus  breaking  the  force  of  the 
advancing  waves  and  preventing  the  gradual  dis- 
appearance of  the  land.  Soon  after  a  wealthy 
Rajali  came  to  see  the  place,  and  being  delighted 


NOUSA  KAMBUNGANG.  243 

with  the  new  isLind,  fixed  his  aliode  on  it,  and 
before  long  became  a  powerfnl  independent 
prince. 

The  name,  Xonsa  Kambungang,  signifies,  ac- 
cording to  some  interpretations,  "  floating  island," 
and,  according  to  others,  "a  garden  of  flowers,"  an 
Interpretation  supported  by  the  fact  of  its  pro- 
ducing, amongst  several  other  beautiful  flowers, 
one  called  AA'^ejoyokesumo,  which  was  supposed 
only  to  open  on  the  occasion  of  a  Sultan's  corona- 
tion or  tlie  marriage  of  a  royal  prince  or  princess, 
and  could  be  found  only  by  a  virtuous  man,  the 
touch  of  a  re])robate  causing  it  instantly  to  shrivel 
up  and  die. 

A  mission,  attended  with  great  "pomp  and  cir- 
cumstance," was  sent  out  in  (piest  of  this  singular 
flower,  which  tluy  were  so  fortunate  as  to  discover. 
The  ofHcial  a])[)ointed  to  bear  it  returnt'd  with  it 
mounted  on  a  richly  caparisoned  steed,  shaded 
under  a  canopy  of  gold,  and  fdllowed  by  a  l(»ng 

R  2 


244  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

retinue  and  a  band  of  music,  many  of  the  villagers 
in  the  different  hamlets  through  which  they  passed 
joining  the  cortege,  until,  by  the  time  they  reached 
the  gates  of  the  Sultan's  Kraton,  their  company 
had  swelled  into  a  large  crowd. 

This  flower,  which  is  believed  to  be  now  extinct, 
has  been  succeeded  by  one  of  another  kind,  called 
the  Patma.  Whenever  this  flower,  which  is  about 
the  size  of  a  goblet,  opens,  it  is  said  to  burst  with  a 
loud  report  like  that  of  a  pistol.  Its  leaves  are  de- 
scribed as  being  large  in  size  and  brown  in  hue — 
the  flower  is  tinted  with  the  varied  colours  of  the 
rainbow. 

The  echo  in  this  harbour  is  very  fine.  A  gentle- 
man who  commanded  a  vessel  at  anchor  in  the  bay 
fired  his  cannons  on  pvu'pose  for  us  to  hear  the 
grand  effect  produced  by  the  reverberation  of  sound. 
The  phenomenon  was  really  remarkably  impressiv^e, 
the  waves  of  sound  rolling  from  one  end  of  the 
island  to  the  other,  with  a  noise  like  thunder,  and 


THE  NIGHT  WATCHES.  245 

ending  in  a  loud  crash,  like  that  of  an  explosion. 
The  climate  of  Tjilatchap  is  warmer  than  that  of 
Bandjarnegara,  resembling  more  that  of  the  towns 
on  the  northern  coast;  but  towards  evening  we 
found  the  air  cool  and  pleasant.  The  thermometer 
during  the  day  averages  from  80^  to  85"  Fahren- 
heit. 

^Vc  left  next  day  for  the  interior  of  the  island, 
going  northward  to  Agiebarang  via    Bandjarne- 
gara.     Here  we   found  the  Passangrahan  better 
provided  with  some  of  the  luxuries  of  life  than 
most  of  tlu-m  are.     As  we  arrived  late,  we  decided 
on  retiring  early.     Al)out   eight  o'clock,   however, 
we  heard  a  strange  hollow  sound,  which,  so  far  as 
it  took  any  .'irticulate  form,  resembled  '"tok,  tok, 
tok,  tok."     Suj)posiiig  tin's  to  be  the  prinu'tive  music 
of  s(jme   ignorant  natives  who  had  statir.ned  them- 
selves before  our  house  on  i)iu-p()se  to  serena.le  us, 
I  told  Drahman  to  tell   them  I  would  ]-ather  they 
^vould  come  on  the  morrow,  as  we  were  so  fatifmed 


246  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

with  the  day's  journey,  that  we  were  not  in  the 
key  to  enjoy  a  nocturnal  concert.  Drahman's 
reply,  though  amushicp  in  its  way,  was  by  no  means 
cheering  to  those  who,  exhausted  with  fatigue, 
were  anticipating  the  comfort  of  a  night's  repose. 

"  These,"  sir,  said  he,  smiling,  "  are  the  night 
watches;  they  will  go  on  like  that  till  four  o'clock 
in  the  morning !" 

The  village  of  Adgiebarang  is  prettily  situated 
in  the  vicinity  of  a  mountainous  district.  Putey 
and  Karang  are  the  loftiest  peaks  in  the  neigbour- 
hood,  and  the  rich  valleys  beneath  them  are  seen 
to  advantage  from  a  hillock  not  far  beyond  the 
Passangrahan. 

The  two  following  days  were  employed  in  cross- 
ing the  chain  of  mountains  dividing  the  residences 
of  Tagal  and  Banjoemas — a  very  tedious  journey, 
entailing  a  frequent  change  of  coolies  and  horses. 
Some  ])arts  of  the  road,  indeed,  being  quite  im- 
practicable to  the  latter,  we  were  obliged  to  employ 


CHERIBOX.  247 

men,  as  "\ve  did  on  oiu'  journey  to  Wonosobo. 
On  our  arrival  at  Tagal,  -we  stayed  at  an  liotel, 
and  proceeded  next  morning  to  Cheribon,  passing 
over  tlie  numerous  small  streams  between  that  town 
and  Losari,  tlie  fifth  post  from  it.  We  came  once 
more  in  siglit  of  the  sea  at  Cheribon,  which  is 
situated  on  the  coast.  The  harbour  is  considered 
to  be  one  of  the  best  on  the  northern  side  of  tb.e 
island.  The  town  struck  us  as  more  like  a  Dutch 
one  than  any  we  had  yet  seen  in  Java.  A  drive  of 
two  miles  in  the  country  Ijrings  the  traveller  to  the 
ruins  of  a  kind  of  chateau  (Cectu,  once  the  ])roperty 
of  Sultan  Adcwijaya,  a  descendant  of  Sheik  ^fau- 
lana,  an  Arab  adventuri-r,  who,  after  subjugating 
the  petty  princes  who  came  in  his  way,  made  him- 
self Sukan  of  this  province  in  14.S0.  Adewijaya, 
following  tlic  example  of  his  ancestor,  gained  ])os- 
session  of  I'antam,  and  coiuerted  all  liis  subjects 
to  ]\Ialiomedanism.  The  present  Sultans  of  Cheri- 
bon,   wlio   are    ])en.sionei's   (»f   the    Dutch   Govern- 


248  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

nient,  are  said  to  be  the  descendants  of  these  con- 
(^uerors. 

The  facade  of  this  singular  building  consists  of 
several  towers,  hke  kiosks  surrounded  with  veran- 
dahs, each  of  which  is  ascended  by  a  spiral  stair- 
case in  the  interior.  At  the  back  of  the  chateau  is 
an  artificial  lake,  studded  with  numbers  of  isles 
and  islets,  communicating  with  each  other  by 
means  of  subterranean  passages.  This  lake,  which 
now  unfortunately  has  more  the  air  of  a  swamp 
than  of  a  clear  sheet  of  water,  is  thickly  grown 
with  tall  rushes.  In  the  interior  of  the  main 
])ortion  of  the  building  are  several  apartments 
connected  with  each  other  by  small  bridges,  span- 
ning narrow  dry  channels,  which  were  once  run- 
ning rivulets. 

The  object  of  the  luxury-loving  Sultan  in  erect- 
ing a  place  of  this  kind  seems  to  have  been  an 
eccentric  desire  to  enjoy  the  alternate  periods  of 
amusement  and  repose,  in  which  his  life  was  passed, 


CHATEAU  d'eau.  249 

amid  an  incessant  sound  of  rushing  and  falling 
water.     When  the  lake  and  rivulets  were  full,  and 
the   primitive    fountains   played,    his  abode  must 
have  resembled  some  of  those  enchanting  habita- 
tions described  in  the  "Ai'abian  Nights."     Almost 
in    every   room  there  is  a  fountain.     The  water 
still    continuing  to   flow   in    many   of   the   upper 
chambers,  rushes  in  torrents  from  the  top  of  the 
towers,   falling  over  steps,   arranged  on  purpose, 
into  the  basins  below.     In  the  courts  adjoining  are 
numerous  tanks,  profusely  ornamented  with  birds, 
fish,  animals,  and  serpents  in  stone.     These  sculp- 
tured figures  are  ])laced  in  every  direction— some 
appearing   to   glide  through  artificial  brushwood, 
and  otiu-rs    perched    on    trees.     The    water   must 
once  have  been  ejecte<l  in  glittering  streams  from 
every  mouth  and  nostril;  but,  as  I  concluded,  owing 
to  sometbing  wrong  in  their  internal  mechanism,  or 
the  dellection  of  the  water  hito  some  other  channel, 
few  now  discharge  their  oliice.     One  room,  rather 


250  LIFE  IX  JAVA. 

apart  from  tlie  rest  of  the  building,  which  is  ap- 
proached by  a  bridge,  goes  by  the  name  of  the 
uyer  clnmhoo,  or  curtain  of  water.  In  a  large 
alcove  in  this  apartment,  once  gorgeously  fitted  up, 
the  Sultan  used  to  enjoy  his  siesta,  the  curtain  that 
protected  his  privacy  consisting  of  a  cascade,  which, 
like  a  transparent  veil,  fell  gently  before  him. 

The  materials  employed  in  this  building  are  the 
same  as  those  used  by  the  Chinese  in  making  their 
artificial  grottoes  and  rockeries,  viz,  mud,  mortar, 
and  cement,  studded  profusely  with  shells,  flint, 
and  large  round  pebbles. 

I  was  told  that  this  chateau  was  the  work  of  two 
ingenious,  hard-working  Chinamen,  whose  patient 
toil  and  unwearied  labour  the  cruel  and  jealous 
Sultan  rewarded  by  depriving  them  of  their  eyes. 
Fearful  lest  any  of  the  neighbouring  princes,  his 
rivals,  might  attempt  the  construction  of  a  similar 
palace,  he  conceived  that  this  cruel  act  was  the 
only  means  by  which  the  accomplishment  of  such 


REGENCIES  OF  THE  PREAXGER.  251 

a  design  could  be  prevented,  satisfying  liis  con- 
science for  depriving  the  poor  arcliitects  of  sight 
by  the  bestowal  of  large  sums  upon  them  in  the 
form  of  pensions  for  life. 

Although  there  are  many  interesting  mountain 
excursions  in  tlie  province  of  Cheribon,  we  shall 
only  mention  that  to  the  Talaga,  a  lake  of  clear 
fresh  water  on  the  summit  of  a  mountain  bearing 
the  same  name,  situated  about  thirty  miles  from 
Cheribon.  It  is  a  deep  lake,  much  larger  than 
the  Mendjer,  and  surrounded  by  mountains  of  a 
lofty  altitude.  From  one  of  the  mountains  may  bo 
obtained  a  line  bird's-eye  view  of  the  rich,  hilly, 
and  alhivia!  country  of  Ciieribon,  the  sea  spreading 
in  a  wide  ex])anse  before  the  delighted   eye   of  the 


ifazer, 


Leaving  this  town  and  its  very  comfortable 
hotel,  we  pursued  our  journey,  and  soon  entered 
into  the  i'rcaugcr  lu-gcnt  Schappcn,  or  Kcgriicies 
of  the  i'reaugi'i',  whicli  are   under  the  jurisdiction 


252  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

of  a  Regent  and  Assistant  Resident.  These  pro- 
vinces, which  are  the  most  mountainous  of  all  the 
Residencies  in  Java,  are  called  by  some  Europeans 
the  Switzerland  of  the  island. 

After  crossing  the  broad  river  Tji-moenock, 
which,  with  the  Tarum,  includes  within  its  wide 
embrace  a  portion  of  the  Preanger,  and  the  Resi- 
dencies of  Krawang  and  Indramayoe,  we  drove 
under  the  shadow  of  the  Gunong  Tamponas,  and 
arrived  at  Samadung,  a  village  with  some  fine 
European  houses.  The  dwellings  of  the  natives 
are  mostly  tiled,  showing  the  wealth  and  position 
of  their  occupants. 

The  next  day  we  proceeded  to  Bandong,  where 
there  is  a  seat  of  one  of  the  Regents,  renowned  for 
his  hospitality,  and,  like  his  confrere  of  Tjandjor, 
very  fond  of  horse-racing  and  the  chase. 

We  arrived  at  Bandong  in  the  afternoon ;  and 
next  morning  drove  in  a  light  carriage  northwards 
to  the  hamlet  of  Lembang,  passing  by  houses  and 


TANKO-BEX-rRAU.  253 

huts  belonging  both  to  Javanese  and  Sundanese, 
the  population  along  the  whole  road  being  much 
mixed.  I  could  see  no  difference  in  physiognomy 
between  these  two  races,  thoufrh,  as  a  general  rule, 
the  Sundanese  are  stouter  built,  and  their  muscles 
better  developed. 

The  most  prominent  object  in  the  view  before 
us  was  the  Tanko-ljcn-Prau,  or  the  inverted  boat,  so 
called  from  its  resemblance  to  a  boat  with  its  keel  up- 
wards. When  we  reached  Lembang,  the  mountain 
seemed  quite  close  to  us,  though  still  fully  five  miles 
off.  To  our  left,  covered  with  a  forest  of  thick  trees, 
we  saw  the  Bourang-rang,  a  mountain  about  the 
same  lieight  as  the  Tanko-ben-Prau,  while  to  the 
east  our  eyes  ran  along  the  Samadung  chain. 

Having  mounted  the  first  ponies  that  were  ready 
tor  us,  we  were  soon  galloj)ing  over  a  well-beaten 
path  leading  to  tlie  J*rau.  We  passed  along  under 
an  a\eime  of  widL'-sprcading  trees,  upon  the  trunks 
and  branches  of  which  hung  air  plants,  or  orchids, 


254  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

with  a  variety  of  leaves  and  beautiful  flowers 
gracefully  hanging  on  their  slender  stems.  The 
air,  which  we  found  cool  at  Bandong  (two  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea),  began  now, 
as  we  neared  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  to  grow 
chilly. 

Issuing  out  of  the  sombre  shade  formed  by  the 
trees  along  the  whole  route  up  the  mountain,  we 
came  suddenly  on  the  ridge  of  the  Kawa-opus 
crater,  which  the  ^landoer  told  us  was  a  mile  in 
circumference,  and  seven  hundred  feet  deep.  A 
large  lake,  the  water  of  which  is  yellow,  bubbles  at 
the  bottom  ;  the  vapour  which  rises  from  it  ascend- 
ing in  dense  clouds  above  its  surface.  Trees  and 
shrubs  grow  on  the  sides  of  the  precipices,  soften- 
ing the  otherwise  sterile  aspect  of  the  place.  Those, 
however,  which  have  imprudently  sprung  up  near 
the  margin  of  the  lake,  are  either  burnt  up,  leafless, 
or  withering. 

Separated  by  a  shelving  ridge,  we  found  on  the 


PERPENDICULAE  DESCENT.  255 

opposite  side  another  crater,  called  the  Kawa  Ratu, 
which  is  seen  to  better  advantan;e  hv  descending 
into  the  interior.  The  way,  which  at  a  first  glance 
seems  easy  enough,  we  found  before  going  many 
steps  to  be  cpiite  the  reverse.  The  descent  is 
almost  ])eri)endicular:  and  there  beinix  no  reo-ular 
])ath,  you  are  obliged  to  pick  your  way  amongst 
loose  stones,  and  hard  cakes  of  clay,  which  in  some 
places  were  very  slippery.  When  we  had  descended 
about  half-wa}',  we  came  to  an  escarpment,  from 
whicli  we  looked  down  on  the  active  ])ortiou  of  the 
volcano,  whence  issued  sounds  like  the  moaninc  of 
tlie  wind  on  a  stormy  niglit.  These  sounds  the  super- 
stitious natives  believe  to  })e  the  groaning  of  certain 
giants  cliaiiied  underground  by  a  wicked  gnome. 

Venturing  to  descend  still  lower,  we  had  a  more 
•  listinct  view  of  the  chimneys  or  a])ertures  in  tlie 
Kawa  Ivatu;  some  of  which  oidy  ])resent  the  ap- 
pearance of  extinct  craters  in  miniature,  wliile  from 
others  the  smoke  forces  itself  in    dense   volumes, 


256  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

preceded  by  hoarse  noises,  as  though  the  vents 
were  too  small  for  the  great  rush  of  vapour  pro- 
ceeding from  them.  The  sounds  we  heard  were 
very  distinct  and  loud,  in  consequence  of  our  prox- 
imity. The  orifices  are  encrusted  with  thick 
deposits  of  a  red  and  yellow  substance,  the  ground 
on  all  sides  being  of  a  yellowish  brown  hue,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  quantity  of  sulphur  with  which 
the  air  is  impregnated.  A  few  of  the  holes  were 
filled  with  Avater,  blue  as  the  sky  above  us,  and 
apparently  boiling  hot.  We  lingered  to  gaze  on 
this  wondrous  scene  as  long  as  we  could  stay,  but 
the  smoke,  which  sometimes  rose  in  clouds  before 
our  faces,  obliging  us  to  close  our  eyes,  compelled 
us  at  last  to  retreat,  glad  of  having  had  the  oppor- 
tunity of  seeing  thus  much. 

This  crater,  if  not  more,  is  at  least  four  hundred 
feet  long,  and  I  should  say  about  three  hundred 
wide. 

On  our  way  back,  we  saw  tlie  extensive  plains 


RESPECT  FOR  SUPERIOR  RANK.  257 

of  Bandong,  famed  for  the  stag  hunts  which  take 
place  tliere  during  tlie  dry  seasons  of  the  year, 
after  the  paddy  has  been  gathered  in.  On  these 
occasions,  tlie  Regent  and  his  sons  are  accompanied 
by  a  Large  retinue  of  huntsmen  and  Europeans, 
who  take  part  in  the  exciting  sport.  An  incident 
occurred  some  time  ao;o,  during;  one  of  these  cjather- 
ings,  whicli  sliows  tlie  strong  feeling  of  veneration 
with  \\hicli  the  natives  regard  all  who  are  above 
them  in  rank.  A  young  chief,  son  of  the  Regent, 
was  following  close  upon  a  deer,  when  a  huntsman, 
in  the  act  of  ])lunging  his  kriss  into  the  animal, 
accidentally  inflicted  a  slight  wound  in  the  leg  of 
the  young  man.  As  the  only  alternative  left,  in 
order  to  expiate  what  in  the  eyes  of  the  natives  is 
regarded  as  a  dreadful  crime,  the  huntsman  im- 
mediatelv  withdrew  and  committed  suicide;  thus 
averting,  as  they  believe,  the  vengeance  of  Allah 
from  the  heads  of  his  family  and  relatives. 

As  we  passed  the   shed   under   whi(.'h  our   Kees- 
VOL.   II.  f5 


258  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

Wagen  had  found  a  shelter,  we  were  astonished  to 
find  a  crowd  gathered  before  it.  Chiefs,  followed 
by  their  payong  bearers  and  retinue — and  numbers 
of  natives,  men  and  women,  many  with  children 
on  their  shoulders — stood  gazing  at  what  think 
our  readers? — not  at  the  Rees- Wagen  itself,  for  such 
a  vehicle  is  so  common  as  to  be  considered  no 
object  of  curiosity — not  at  our  collection  of  birds, 
fowls,  skins,  horns,  &c.  &c.,  which  were  stowed 
away  in  every  available  corner  of  the  cannage ;  but 
at  the  two  white  turtles,  which  not  even  the  oldest 
inhabitant  in  the  whole  place  had  ever  seen  any- 
thing like  before. 


CILVPTER  IX. 


i:OAD  TO  T.JAXn.JOU — VIEW  OF  THE  PANGAnANGO— ANOTHKU 
DIFFICULTY  WITH  HORSES — UNPLEASANT  DISCOVERY — SITUA- 
TION OF  SINANGLAYA — ASCENT  OF  THE  PANGARANGO — 
(QUININE  TREES — VARIETY  OF  ORCHIDS — WATERFALLS — A 
NKHIT  ON  THE  MOUNTAIN — GATEWAY  OF  RATO  PAJAJARRAN 
THE  GllEDDi: — THE  DOCTOR'S  "  ETABLLSMENT" — MEGAMUN- 
DONG  MOL'NTAIN— AKRIVE  AT  I!UVTEN/.Oi;G — (;OVERNOR- 
GENEP>AL"S  PALACE  AND  GliOUNDS — FEAST  OF  SEDAKA  lUIMIE 

— i;ktui;n  to  p.atavia — visit  to  raden  saleh — we   hid 
adieu  to  .lwa. 


s2 


261 


CHAPTER  IX. 

E.VRLYiiext  morningwe  leftfor  Tjaiidjor(Clianjor), 
tlie  road  to  wliicli,  througli  a  mountainous  district, 
i.s  a  continuous  ascent  and  descent.  Beyond  tlie 
second  post  we  drove  under  a  high,  rock}'  moun- 
tain called  Ilawa,  or  the  kitchen  ;  a  peculiar  appel- 
lation, derived  from  some  stones  of  enormous  size, 
sha])ed  somewliat  like  culinary  utensils,  wliicli  the 
Sundanese  assert  to  liave  formerly  belonged  to  the 
Gragasset'S,  or  giants,  who  inhabited  these  parts 
hundreds  of  years  ago. 

.Vbout  live  miles  farther  on,  we  came  in  sight  of 
the  Paiigaraiigo  and  (iliedde  mountains,  as  fami- 
liar to  JJataviaus  as  Mont  Plauc  and  Vesuvius  are 
to  us. 

After   the    iiftli    ]»ost,    Ivajahmundula,   the   road 


202  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

descended  so  abruptly,  that  horses  were  dispensed 
with,  and,  to  prevent  our  too  rapid  progress,  ropes 
were  attached  to  the  back  of  the  carriage,  which 
were  held  by  coolies,  who  gradually  let  it  wheel 
down  for  some  distance.  On  approaching  the  foot 
of  the  hill,  they  raised  a  loud  shout,  and  our  vehicle, 
being  allowed  to  take  its  course,  dashed  on  at  a 
tremendous  rate,  until,  after  a  sharp  and  sudden 
turn,  we  found  ourselves  brought  to  a  pause  in 
safety  on  a  bridge  spanning  the  Gitarang  river. 
The  pushing  and  hauling  our  llees-Wagen  up  the 
opposite  side  was  not  so  rapidly  accomplished. 

Continuing  our  journey,  we  passed  through 
scenery  wild  and  romantic  beyond  description. 
Tjandjor,  like  Bandong,  abounds  in  native  and 
Chinese  houses,  but  possesses  few  of  those  beauti- 
ful Euro])ean  mansions  and  seats  which  make  the 
former  one  of  the  prettiest  inland  towns  of  Java. 

Here  we  were  again  annoyed  about  post-horses, 
which  we  found  it  impossible  to  obtain.      "  The 


SCARCITY  OF  POST-HORSES.  263 

Governor-General  being  at  Tjapanus — only  twenty 
miles  off — amusing  himself,   no  horses  whatever 
could  be  supplied,  as  they  might  be  telegraphed  for 
at  any  moment."       Such  was  the  answer  given  to 
every  inquiry  we  made,  and  how  to  proceed  we 
knew  not.      To  remain  at  Tjandjor  would  only  be 
waste  of  time,  as  in  any  case  we  must  have  awaited 
the  Governor's  pleasure  :  so,  after  a  short  council 
between  ourselves,  we  decided  to  hire  buffaloes,  and 
trust  to  chance  for  picking  up  help  on  the  road. 
Drahman  was  accordingly  despatched  in  search  of 
the    animals,    but    returned    very    soon    with    the 
dispiriting  intelh'gence  tliat  none  could  be  found, 
all  being  at  work  in  the  fields,  and  not  one  for  hire. 
Disappointed,  but  not  discouraged,  we  sent  him  off 
a  second  tune,  and  after  some  delay  he  came  back, 
acconij)anit'(l  by  a  man  leading  a  yoke  of   oxen, 
whicli   were  ipiickly  attaclied  to  the    carriage    by 
means  of  sundry  ropes.      As  soon  as  the  necessary 
}>rej)arations   were  made,  we  entered   the   vehicle, 


264  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

and  the  huge  animals  began  to  move  forward ;  but 
at  such  a  snail's  pace,  that  it  took  us  fully  an  hour 
to  reach  the  gates  of  the  town,  a  distance  which  any 
ordinarily  good  pedestrian  might  easily  accompHsh 
in  ten  minutes.  This  rate  of  progress  was  anything 
but  desirable ;  but  as  all  the  talking  and  praying 
in  the  world  could  not  increase  it,  we  resigned  our- 
selves to  our  fate.  Long  after  evening  had  given 
place  to  night,  "we  reached  the  station  on  the  road 
where  we  had  appointed  to  meet  the  avant-coumer 
whom  we  had  despatched,  before  leaving  Tjandjor, 
to  obtain  a  relay  of  buffaloes. 

The  man,  whose  animals  had  dragged  us  so  far, 
was  on  the  point  of  unyoking  them,  in  order  to  re- 
turn to  his  home,  when  I  interposed,  and  induced 
him,  by  a  promise  of  extra  pay,  to  leave  them 
attached  to  the  carriage,  for  I  felt  convinced  that 
without  their  assistance  the  single  pair  of  fresh 
ones  would  take  an  endless  time  to  accomplish  the 
thirteen  or  fourteen  miles  of  journey  that  still  re- 


SLOW  AND  TIRESOME  JOURNEY.  265 

raaincd  before  us.  Some  two  miles  farther  on — when 
our  boy  shipper  went  to  a  neifrhbouring  village,  in 
search  of  a  fresh  relay,  our  first  pair  being  quite 
unable  to  continue  their  exertions — we  were  again 
detained  a  considerable  time.  We  succeeded,  how- 
ever, in  iiettino;  four  oxen,  which,  with  the  last  two, 
made  six.  "Now,"  thought  I,  "we  shall  go  a  little 
faster."  But,  alas!  there  seemed  no  perceptible 
difference.  After  a  while  we  had  eight,  and  then 
ten  attached,  but  still  our  progress  up  the  hilly  road 
was  slow  and  tiresome.  The  animals  appeared  to 
toil  on  with  a  slow  and  wearied  pace,  until,  at  last, 
after  a  j<jurney  which  seemed  interminaljle,  they 
st(jj)i)ed  before  the  door  of  the  Sanatorium  at  Sin- 
daiigh.iya  between  four  and  five  in  tlie  morning. 

Here  we  were  directed  by  the  servants,  whom  we 
aroused  from  slumber,  to  a  house  l)eyond,  Ijelong- 
ing  hkewise  to  Dr.  IMoiMii,  the  one  we  pulled  up  at 
being  full  of  invalids.  This  was  an  awkanl  ])redi- 
cament,   f(jr   making  sure  our  journey  was  at  an 


266  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

end,  I  had  paid  the  men,  who  had  vanished  with 
their  buffaloes.  There  was  no  alternative  but  to 
walk  it.  The  morning  was  clear,  and  the  sky  glow- 
ing with  stars,  but  the  air  was  very  keen  and 
piercing ;  so  deciding  not  to  disturb  my  wife,  who 
was  fast  asleep  in  the  carriage,  I  obtained  the  help 
of  three  of  the  doctor's  servants,  who,  Avith  Drah- 
man  and  myself,  succeeded,  after  some  difficulty, 
in  dragging  the  heavy  vehicle  to  the  other  house,  a 
distance  of  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile. 

The  sight  of  a  European  grate,  on  which  we 
made  the  men  pile  logs  of  wood,  was,  indeed, 
cheering.  We  rubbed  our  hands  with  delight  as 
Ave  felt  the  warmth  of  the  fire  ;  and  felt  glad  that 
one  of  our  longest  and  slowest  journeys  was  over. 

Sindanglaya  is  situated  on  the  plateau  of  a  hill, 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  Pangarango,  and  surrounded 
by  hills  and  mountains.  Three  or  four  years  ago 
it  Avas  a  dense  jungle,  but  has  been  gradually,  and 
rather  indiscriminately,  cleared  of  its  loftiest   trees, 


SANATORIUM  AT  SIXDANGLAYA.  267 

and  converted  into  a  Sanatorium  for  civil  and  mili- 
tary patients.  Two  bungalows  are  set  apart  for 
the  former,  and  three  or  four  attap  sheds  for  the 
latter,  who  are  frequently  conveyed  here  from  the 
crarrison  at  Batavia.  Prior  to  the  erection  of  these 
hospitals  the  invalid  soldiers  were  sent  to  Holland. 

At  noon  we  started  on  ponies  for  the  Panga- 
rango,  wliicli  is  one  of  the  highest  mountains  in 
Java,  heing  ten  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  After  i)assing  through  some 
coffee  ])lantations,  the  road  dwindles  to  a  mere  foot- 
path, and  nothing  can  be  seen  but  a  dense  forest  of 
wild  trees,  amongst  wliicli  the  Chaumara,  Chantigy, 
and  Sarundoiig  are  conspicuous  from  their  height 
and  size. 

AVhcn  we  were  about  two  or  tluve  miles  from 
Sindanglaya,  we  stopped  at  a  small  liut,  serving  as 
a  Passangralian,  in  the  grounds  of  which  straw- 
berries and  Europeim  vegetables  were  growing 
most  temptingly.     We  also  perceived  two  ([uinine 


268  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

trees,  which,  on  inquiry,  we  fovincl  had  been  placed 
in  their  present  position  in  order  to  ascertain 
whether  they  would  thrive  in  the  cool  mountain 
districts  of  Java ;  and  so  far,  I  believe,  the  trees 
have  flourished  very  well. 

As  we  ascended  higher,  the  road  appeared  to 
have  been  cut  deeper  than  usual,  so  as  to  leave  in 
some  parts  two  banks  covered  with  a  variety  of 
moss,  ferns,  calladlums,  and  lilies.  Myriads  of 
different  coloured  creepers  and  orchids  clung  to  the 
bark  and  branches  of  every  tree,  in  some  instances 
literally  covering  them.  The  flowers  of  many  of  them, 
blooming  on  long  spiral  stems,  seemed  to  float  in 
the  air  above  our  heads.  It  was  like  riding  through 
miles  of  the  choicest  stocked  garden  it  is  possible 
for  human  mind  to  conceive.  In  fact,  it  would  be 
difficult  for  any  one  who  has  not  travelled  in  this 
land  of  terrestrial  orchids  and  epiphytes,  to  imagine 
a  scene  at  once  so  singular  and  beautiful  as  the 
one  I  have  attempted  to  describe.      Similar  scenes. 


PUYOS.  269 

indeed,  are  to  be  met  with  in  many  mountain 
regions,  but  none,  I  should  think,  excelhng  that  of 
the  Pangarango,  in  the  variety,  beauty,  and  abund- 
ance of  its  rare  exotics. 

By  tlie  time  we  reached  the  second  Passangrahan 
— a  miserable-looking  hut,  little  better  than  a  cow- 
shed— it  was  very  cold.  Ordering  the  coolies,  there- 
fore, to  light  a  fire,  we  set  off  on  foot  in  search  of 
some  waterfalls,  which  we  had  been  told  were  worth 
seeing.  Our  Avay  lay  through  a  perfect  labyrinth 
of  trees  and  shrubs,  and  almost  at  every  footfall  we 
lieard  the  cluck  of  some  startled  bird,  as  we  came 
suddenly  on  coveys  of  quails,  or,  as  the  natives  call 
tliem,  j)uyos.  Tliese  Ijirds  are  about  the  size  of 
our  partridges,  with  Ijriglit  black  eyes,  and  a  white 
excrescence  iimncdiately  below  each.  Tlieir  breasts 
arc  brown  and  red,  and  the  wings  grey.  Several 
were  kindly  sent  to  me  before  I  left  the  East,  but 
my  utmost  care  to  keep  them  alive  proved  futile. 

Our  walk,  as  we  continued,  grew  very  stony  and 


270  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

wet,  huge  pieces  of  rock  sometimes  baiTing  our 
progress,  and  obliging  us  to  retrace  our  steps  a  few 
yards,  and  try  a  fresh  route.  Streams  of  water 
also  rushed  down  the  mountain  side,  over  which  we 
lost  some  time  in  placing  old  trunks  of  trees  and 
large  stones,  to  enable  us  to  cross  them.  AYhen 
we  reached  a  hollow  formed  between  the  Geger 
Bentang  and  Pangarango  mountains,  we  came  in 
sight  of  the  scene  which  we  were  specially  anxious 
to  see. 

On  one  side  of  the  precipice  opposite  to  us,  was 
the  Churook  Chikoonoor,  falling  almost  perpen- 
dicularly from  a  height  of  four  hundred  feet,  the 
creepers  clinging  to  the  sides  of  the  mountain  seen 
clearly  through  the  water.  To  the  left,  gushing  out 
of  a  rocky  projection,  was  the  cascade  of  Tjapanas, 
spreading  out  like  a  peacock's  tail.  Both  water- 
falls are  surrounded  by  large  trees  and  shrubs,  and 
so  close  to  each  other  that  anyone  standing  between 
them  would  be  sprinkled  with  spray  from  both  sides. 


SMOKY  HUT.  271 

Entering  the  hut,  on  our  return,  we  could 
not  at  first  distinguish  any  human  form  througli 
the  dense  smoke  which  filled  it.  xidvancing 
farther  in,  however,  we  soon  saw  the  crouching 
figures  of  the  poor  shivering  natives,  who  were 
seated  on  the  ground  around  the  fire.  The  in- 
terior had  a  very  uncomfortable  appearance.  It 
was  lit  by  small  windows,  the  little  broken  panes 
in  which  admitted  feeble  rays  of  light  by  day,  but 
gusts  of  wind  by  night,  sufticient  to  chill  any  one's 
blood.  As  the  room  was  perfectly  destitute  of  any 
article  of  furniture,  we  followed  the  example  of 
the  coolies,  and  S(]uatted  ourselves  on  the  bare 
ground,  for  there  were  no  boards  even  to  cover  the 
L-arth.  Bef(jre  long  the  smoke  began  to  make  our 
eyes  feel  (juite  sore,  and  as  there  was  no  chimney, 
we  ordered  every  window  and  door  to  be  o])ened  as 
wide  as  possible  to  let  it  esca])e  ;  but  all  to  no  pur- 
pose, the  faggots  would  smoulder,  and  tlie  smoke 
rose  in  thicker  chnids  than  could   lind  vent.     So 


272  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

■\vitli  our  eyes  suffused  with  tears,  as  painful  as 
those  which  "  Hve  in  an  onion,"  we  waited  the 
cooking  of  our  repast,  it  being  too  cold  and  rainy 
to  sit  out  of  doors. 

The  scene  would  have  formed  the  subject  of  a 
curious  sketch.  Perched  on  three  large  stones, 
which  served  as  a  kind  of  temporary  grate,  sang 
and  hissed  a  huge  black  kettle;  whilst,  close  by, 
the  mandoer  was  employed  in  boiling  rice,  and 
next  to  him  a  man  was  warming  a  cold  fowl, 
which  he  held  near  the  fire  by  means  of  a  bamboo 
thrust  across  its  Avings.  The  other  occupants  of 
the  hut  were  squatted  as  near  the  fire  as  the 
mandoer  would  allow  them  to  come;  some  engaged 
in  chewing  betel,  their  cud  of  comfort,  and  otliers 
puffing  away  at  their  rocos,  and  rubbing  their 
eyes  from  time  to  time,  apparently  by  no  means 
in  their  element.  My  wife,  soon  after  entering, 
had  tied  a  bandage  over  her  eyes,  and  I  partially 
followed  her  example  by  holding  a  pocket  hand- 


THE  LAWAXG  SAKATUN.  273 

kerchief  up  to  mine  as  a  protection,  removing  it 
now  and  then  in  order  to  gaze  at  the  group  around 


us. 


When  tea  was  made,  our  comestibles  were  spread 
upon  plantain  leaves,  and  we  set  to  with  the 
a\idity  of  hunters,  the  men  apparently  enjoying 
their  meal  with  equal  zest  in  a  circle  of  their  own. 

A  small  room  like  a  closet  formed  our  dormi- 
tory, and  here  upon  a  few  rough  planks,  over 
which  our  servant  threw  a  blanket,  we  slept  the 
sound  sleep  of  travellers  fatigued  with  a  long  da\'s 
work  and  the  want  of  rest  the  previous  night. 

I>y  five  next  UKjrm'ng  we  rose  and  continued  our 
upward  route,  the  summit  of  the  Pangarango 
being  eiglit  miles  distant  from  the  hut  of  Tjibur- 
rum.  \\  e  had  not  proceeded  far  ])efore  we  saw 
two  laigv  rocks  standing  ()j»posite  each  other  like 
the  piHars  of  a  gat(.'.  The  mandoi^r,  on  passing 
them,  took  off  liis  tudoiKj*  most  rcsj)ectfullv,  an 
*    'I'liiloiKj.   a  siicfics  nf  coiiic'al-sljaj)fil  hut. 

VOL.   II.  I- 


274  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

example  in  wliich  lie  was  followed  by  all  our 
other  attendants  as  they  approached  the  place. 
On  inquiry,  I  found  that  these  rocks  were  called 
Lawang  Sakatnn,  and  had  been  placed  here  by 
order  of  a  king  named  Rato  Pajajarran  Raden 
Suryakanchama,  to  mark  the  entrance  to  this 
dense  forest,  once  a  portion  of  his  domain.  The 
respect  in  which  his  memory  is  held  is  shown 
by  the  almost  universal  custom  among  the  natives 
of  taking  off  their  hats  as  they  approach  the  place. 
Higher  up  we  crossed  over  two  streams  running 
parallel  with  each  other,  the  vvater  of  one  being 
icy  cold,  whilst  that  of  the  other  was  boiling  hot. 
The  path  afterwards  descended  into  a  large  hollow, 
or  amphitheatre,  called  Sabuksaha,  hemmed  in  by 
the  bases  of  three  mountains,  and  strewn  over 
with  enormous  blocks  of  stone  and  boulders  of 
granite,  which  have  probably  been  carried  down 
by  the  force  of  the  Avater,  at  a  time  when  the 
stream,    running    between   the    Ghedde  and   the 


ASCENT  OF  THE  PANGAEAXGO.  275 

Gejer  Bentaiig,  has  been  considerably  larger  and 
more  violent  than  it  was  when  we  saw  it.  Except 
for  a  path  leading  to  the  Ghedde,  the  ascent  was 
now  unbroken  until  we  reached  the  top.  Misty  and 
damp  as  a  November  day,  the  air  seemed  to  pene- 
trate to  our  bones,  Aviiilst  our  clothes  soon  became 
as  wet  as  though  we  had  been  exposed  to  a  heavy 
shower.  Sometimes  a  passing  cloud  would  com- 
])letely  envelope  us  in  its  cold  embrace,  concealing 
almost  everything  from  view;  fitful  gleams  of  sun- 
shine would  then  dispel  it^  and  make  the  way 
clear  and  bright  before  us. 

On  reacliiiig  the  summit,  up  to  which  we  rode 
through  a  large  o])ening,  we  were  surprised  to  find 
so  great  an  extent  of  fiat  table-land,  covered  in 
some  parts  with  thick  shrubs  and  brusliwood,  and  in 
others  abounding  with  wild  strawberries.  A  hut, 
simihir  to  that  (jf  Tjiburrum,  is  situated  about  the 
centre. 

At  our  approach  several  wild    Ijoars,   which   had 

T  2 


27G  LIFE  IN  JAVA.  ' 

probably  been  feasting  on  the  strawberries, 
scampered  away,  and  soon  vanished  under  the 
thicket.  Dismounting,  Ave  walked  a  short  distance 
from  the  hut  to  a  piece  of  ground  slightly  elevated, 
from  which  we  had  a  most  extensive  view  of  the 
surrounding  country.  To  the  north  we  had  the  pro- 
vince of  Buitenzorg,  with  its  principal  town  of  the 
same  name,  forming,  from  the  number  of  its  white 
houses,  a  conspicuous  object  in  the  view,  like  some 
holy  city  on  a  pleasing  eminence.  Not  far  from 
it  was  the  Residency  of  Batavia,  beyond  which  was 
the  sea  of  Java.  The  mountainous  country  of  the 
Preanger  was  to  the  south,  with  the  Indian  Ocean 
just  discernible  in  the  distance.  At  a  first  glance 
the  hills  and  mountains  looked  quite  small,  like  so 
many  miniature  or  toy  mountains;  but,  as  our  eyes 
became  more  familiar  with  the  vastness  of  the 
scene  before  us,  we  seemed  better  able  to  under- 
stand our  own  exalted  position,  and  their  height 
and  extent.     On    the    west    lay   the   province    of 


A  SUBSTITUTE  FOR  FUSEES.  277 

Bantam,  and  to  the  east  a  largo  tract  of  tlie  Pre- 
anger,  with  part  of  the  province  of  Krawang,  &c. 
A  more  extensive  view  could  not  well  be  obtained. 

It  was  very  fortunate  we  had  such  a  clear  day, 
as  many  wlio  have  taken  the  trouble  to  ascend  the 
movuitain  have  only  met  with  disappointment  on 
reaching  the  summit,  which  they  have  found  en- 
velo])ed  in  clouds  and  mist. 

Before  starting  on  our  return,  I  felt  desirous  to 
smoke  a  cigar,  in  order  "to  keep  the  cold  out;"  but 
finding  I  liad  forgotten  my  fusees,  I  asked  one  of 
the  men  if  he  could  give  me  a  light.  He  im- 
mediatelv  ])icke(l  up  a  dried  })iece  of  wood,  and  hold- 
ini>'  it  fixed  on  the  ground,  asked  one  of  his  com- 
panions to  ml)  another  across  it.  This  being 
(piicklv  done,  in  less  than  five  minutes  the  friction 
causL'd  tlic  ujjright  piece  to  burn.  The  man  soon 
])!c\v  it  into  a  ilanu',  and  lianiU'd  it  to  me.  1  had 
often  heanl  of  this  >iiiiple  ])r()cess,  Ijut  never  before 
witnessed  it. 


278  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

Leaving  this  lonely-looking  summit,  we  de- 
scended rapidly  till  we  reached  the  path  to  the 
Ghedde,  wdien  we  climbed  a  steep  ascent  over 
loose  stones  and  rocks  till  we  reached  this  brother 
mountain  of  the  Pangarango;  for,  singular  to  say, 
they  both  rise  from  one  base,  and  are  both  the 
same  height.  The  Ghedde,  however,  unlike  its 
neighbour,  is  an  active  volcano,  with  a  large  crater, 
portions  of  which  are  now  extinct.  We  stood  upon 
the  edge  of  the  yawning  abyss,  from  which  the 
smoke  rose  in  dense  volumes,  accompanied  with 
loud  noises,  reminding  one  of  Dante's  description 
of  Limbo — 

"  The  dread  abyss,  that  joins  a  thundrous  sound 
Of  plaints  innumerable.     Dark  and  deep, 
And  thick  with  clouds  o'erspread,  mine  eye  in  vain 
Explored  its  bottom,  nor  could  aught  discern." 

The  strata  opposite  and  above  the  ridge  we  stood 
upon  appeared  to  Ije  of  sand,  brown  rock,  lime,  and 
grey  stones,  the  latter  running  in  lateral  lines  one 
over  the  other,  like  steps  of  different  colours. 


BEAUTIFUL  ORCHID.  279 

Retracing  our  steps,  we  made  our  way  down  to 
Sindanglaya,  stopping  at  the  miserable  hut  where 
we  had  suffered  so  much  discomfort  from  the  wind 
blowing  and  whistling  through  the  night.  Here 
we  made  our  midday  repast  and  rested  our  horses, 
after  which  we  collected  some  rare  and  beautiful 
jdants  wliich  had  struck  our  eye  the  day  previous. 
One  orchid  in  particular,  with  a  small  mauve 
Hower  on  a  Acry  delicate  stem,  I  had  never  seen 
before  ;  and  I  have  been  since  informed  by  ama- 
teurs of  these  beautiful  plants  that  it  is  a  very 
rare  specimen. 

On  our  return,  a  very  heavy  shower  fell,  drench- 
ing us  to  the  skin,  and  making  us  rejoice  in 
the  cheerful  fire  which  awaited  our  arrival  at  the 
PassanL'rahan.  .Vfter  discarding  our  wet  clothes, 
we  walked  to  the;  doctor's  house  to  dine. 

We  found  him  surrounded  by  his  ])atients,  in 
whom  lie  scciucd  much  interesttMl.  He  was  very 
affaltlo.  and  dui'lnir  mv  sta\-  I  heard  two  anecdoti's 


280  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

from  liim  which  amused  me  not  a  httle.  Thouo;h 
the  remedies  are  certainly  singuhir,  both  may 
fairly  be  entitled  "a  cure  for  dysentery." 

A  Dutch  soldier,  who  had  suffered  for  months 
from  dysentery,  the  cure  of  which,  in  his  case,  the 
doctors  declared  to  be  impossible,  had  recourse  to  a 
powerful  remedy.  Placing  at  the  bottom  of  a 
tumbler  a  handful  of  chili  paddy,  the  smallest  and 
most  pungent  of  all  Indian  chillies,  he  poured 
over  it  raw  gin,  or  kirsch,  till  the  glass  was 
half  full.  This  mixture  he  drank  off  at  once,  and 
retired  to  bed,  where,  burying  himself  under  several 
thick  blankets,  he  soon  fell  into  a  sound  sleep. 
After  several  hoiu's'  rest  he  awoke,  and  finding 
himself  in  a  violent  perspiration,  prudently  kept 
his  reciimbcnt  position  until  he  was  quite  cool, 
when  he  rose  and  refreshed  himself  with  a  cold 
bath,  and,  after  a  few  days,  completely  recovered 
his  former  state  of  good  health. 

The  other  anecdote  was  of  a  gentleman,   who, 


A  CUKE  FOR  DYSENTERY.  281 

for  more  than  a  year,  had  been  ill  with  the  same 
(lisease,  -which  was  gradually  undermining  his  con- 
stitution. Callino;  one  mornino;  at  the  house  of  an 
intimate  friend,  he  found  him,  v.itli  his  family, 
seated  at  breakfast,  partaking,  amongst  other  things, 
of  stewed  haricots  and  salt  meat.  On  Ijeing  re- 
quested to  join  the  circle  round  the  table,  he  ac- 
cepted tlie  invitation,  and  requested  his  friend  to 
help  him  to  some  of  the  dish  before  him,  for  which 
he  felt  that  longing  peculiar  to  invalids.  The 
host,  reluctant  to  comply  with  his  request,  salt  meat 
Ijeinff  alwavs  considered  one  of  the  worst  thinjj;s 
for  persons  in  his  state  of  health,  strongly  urged 
him  to  partake  of  some  other  viand.  The  sick 
gentleman,  however,  offended  by  the  friendly  re- 
monstrance', actually  rose  to  leave  tlie  table;  seeing 
which,  his  host  badr  liiiu  help  himself  as  he  ])leased, 
thougii  hi-  thought  it  a  great  risk.  The  Avilful 
invalid  accordingly  set  to  work  voraciously,  takiiig 
two  or  three  })lates  of  the  savoury  dish,  and  declar- 


282  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

ing  he  had  not  enjoyed  such  a  hearty  meal  for 
many  months.  Breakfast  over,  he  Kt  his  cigar 
and  took  leave  of  his  friends,  thanking  them  for 
the  delicious  repast.  After  he  was  gone  the 
gentleman  began  to  feel  uncomfortable  as  to  the 
results  of  his  sick  friend's  indulgence  in  his  appetite; 
but  his  surprise  knew  no  bounds,  when,  in  a  few 
days,  the  latter  paid  them  a  second  visit,  declar- 
ing he  had  had  no  return  of  the  disease  since  the 
morning  he  had  breakfasted  so  heartily  with  them, 
that  now  all  he  required  was  change  of  air  to  re- 
cruit his  strength,  and  that  he  had  come  to  say 
good-bye  before  setting  off  for  Sindanglaya. 

"  Had  I  known  the  efficacy  of  haricots  and  salt 
meat  bef oi"e,"  he  added,  with  a  laugh,  "  it  would 
have  saved  me  many  a  doctor's  bill." 

The  next  morning  we  started  for  Buitenzorg, 
on  our  return  to  Batavia.  For  eight  miles  the 
road  was  one  continued  gradual  ascent,  up  the  side 
of  the  !Megamundong  mountain,  which  is  richly 


THE  TOLOGO  WARNO.  283 

clothed  Avitli  trees,  shrubs^  and  ferns.  Our  car- 
riage was  drawn  the  whole  way  by  four  horses  and 
six  buffaloes  ;  and  even  with  these  "  ten  in  hand  " 
we  proceeded  but  slowly.  On  arriving  at  the  sum- 
mit, we  walked  for  about  half  a  mile  under  a 
beautifid  forest  of  trees,  to  see  a  prettily-situated 
lake,  called  the  Tologo  Warno,  which  is  like  a 
square  basin  in  the  bosom  of  the  mountain,  sur- 
roimded  by  trees  and  shrubs,  growing  from  the 
sloping  Ijanks  down  to  the  edge  of  the  muddy- 
coloured  water. 

The  man  who  looks  after  this  place  informed  us 
that  the  water  was  once  beautifully  clear,  and  no 
less  than  eight  hundred  feet  deej) ;  Init  during  tlie 
eruption  of  an  adjacent  volcano — now  extinct — 
such  a  quantity  of  stones  fuid  rubbish  had  been 
tlirown  into  the  lake,  tliat  its  de])t]i  was  dinn'n- 
ished  to  seventy-five  feet,  and  the  water  became 
thick  and  muddy. 

The   road  ikjw  began  to  descend  raj)idly.     Fur- 


284  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

tlier  on  we  passed  several  small  mountains,  amongst 
which  was  another  Tunkoe  ben  Prau,  and  a 
Gunong  Chisalak — "  the  forbidden  " — so  named 
from  a  fruit  known  to  the  natives  as  the  hua  salak, 
or  forbidden  fruit,  growing  wild  upon  it,  the  kernel 
and  juice  of  which  are  very  sour,  and  the  rind 
dark  brown  and  scaly. 

After  driving  through  a  charming  country'  of 
mountains,  hills,  forests,  and  lands  smiling  with 
luxuriant  cultivation,  we  came  in  sight  of  Buiten- 
zorg ;  and  in  a  very  short  time  were  whirled  up  to 
the  door  of  the  Hotel  Bellevue.  The  Governor- 
General  of  Java  has  a  palace  here,  at  one  time  a 
place  of  great  resort  during  certain  seasons  of 
the  year.  It  is  now,  however,  the  permanent 
dwelling  of  that  high  dignitary.  The  house  is  a 
commodious-looking  building,  standing  in  exten- 
sive grounds,  which  are  beautifully  laid  out  in 
artificial  lakes,  arljours,  avenues,  and  gardens,  in 
regular  Euro[)ean  style. 


THE  BATOE  TULIS.  285 

There  are  several  European  mansions  and  bun- 
galows in  the  town ;  and  the  Chinese,  who  muster 
strong  at  Buitenzorg,  have  erected  some  very  fine 
dwellings. 

As  the  air  is  cool,  and  the  temperature  in  general 
varies  Init  very  little,  it  is  considered  a  healthy 
retreat  for  invalids;  and  heing  only  fifty  miles 
from  Batavia,  it  is  the  favourite  resort  of  business 
men  who  can  steal  a  week  or  so  from  their  con- 
stant routine  of  work. 

About  two  miles  from  the  town  is  the  Batoe 
Tulis.  On  this  stone,  or  rock,  is  an  inscription  in 
characters  somewhat  rescmljling  Javanese,  but  In- 
tel I  igil)le  to  no  native.  Ik'low  it  is  a  long  dark 
slab,  on  tlic  surface  of  which  are  f()ot[»rints  like 
thos*;  of  a  child,  the  feet  close  together,  and  tlie 
toi'S  distended.  No  one  seems  to  know  anything 
about  these  curious  stones.  Everi  tradition,  wluch 
is  ever  readv  to  supply  the  blank  left  by  history,  is 
silent    respecting    them.        Notwithstanding   their 


286  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

ignorance,  liowever,  the  Chinese,  as  well  as  the 
Javanese,  regard  these  stones  with  superstitious 
veneration,  making  their  offerings  and  "  chin  chin 
joss  "  to  them.  Gilt  papers,  bits  of  incense,  &k., 
were  lying  scattered  about  all  round  them. 

Between  two  and  three  miles  from  Buitenzorg, 
on  the  road  to  Batavia,  is  the  villa  o-e  of  Kadonj; 
Badak,  another  resort  for  invalids.  Being  situated 
in  a  retired  nook,  it  is  greatly  appreciated  by  those 
who  prefer  quiet  to  the  bustle  of  such  a  place  as 
Buitenzorg. 

The  fifth  post  is  Bidara  Cheena,  once  a  very 
large  populous  Chinese  village.  Here  we  saw  a 
number  of  men  and  boys  carrying  gilt  poles  with 
red  banners  flying  from  them,  and  preceded  by  a 
band  of  music,  of  which  little  was  heard  sa^'e  the 
loud  drums.  I  was  told  they  were  going  to  a  feast 
called  the  SedakaBumie,  "  charity  of  the  earth,"  an 
annual  festival  given  by  a  landlord,  on  Avhicli  oc- 
casion a  fat  sapi,  or  ox,  is  killed  and  skinned.     The 


A  JAVANESE  ARTIST.  287 

head,  being  severed  from  the  body  by  some  expert 
man  of  the  party,  is  placed  on  a  salver,  and  after 
being  strewn  and  decorated  with  flowers  by  the 
peasant  girls,  is  carried  in  procession,  and  buried 
■with  a  great  deal  of  ceremony.  The  body  is  then 
roasted  and  eaten  by  the  assembled  tenants,  who 
afterwards  dance  to  the  merry  sound  of  music. 

lievond  this  post,  as  well  as  many  miles  before 
reaching  it,  the  country  is  very  low,  flat,  and  un- 
interesting ;  but  the  road  being  good,  we  got  over 
the  ground  pretty  (piickly,  arriving  at  Batavia 
after  a  live  hours'  drive  under  a  scorching  sun,  and 
through  clouds  of  dust. 

Before  leaving  Batavia,  we  called  on  lladeu 
Salcli,  a  .Ia\anese  amateur  artist,  whose  residence 
is  situated  a  short  distance  from  the  (piarter  of  the 
Town  in  which  we  were  staying.  Sending  in  the 
letter  of  introduction  with  which  a  friend  had 
kiudlv  furnished  me,  we  were  shown  into  a  large 
hall,    artistically    fitteil     up    with     furniture    both 


288  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

antique  and  modern,  amoncrst  which  I  noticed 
some  chairs  the  backs  and  legs  of  which  were 
formed  of  deer  horns. 

Raden  Saleh  soon  made  his  appearance,  and  we 
conversed  in  French,  a  language  which  he  spoke 
most  fluently.  He  was  also  acquainted  both  with 
German  and  English,  but  he  did  not  appear  to  be 
quite  so  much  at  home  with  the  latter  as  with  the 
former.  He  was  about  the  middle  height,  with  a 
cheerful,  intelHffent  countenance,  and  a  broad  but 
slightly  receding  forehead. 

We  had  a  long  conversation  together,  during 
which  he  stated  a  fact  which  I  remembered  having 
previously  seen  in  the  papers,  that  he  had  been 
commissioned  by  our  talented  and  much  regretted 
Prince  Consort  to  paint  two  subjects  relating  to 
Javanese  life  and  scenery.  He  spoke  in  high 
terms  of  the  Prince,  with  whom  he  appears  to  have 
had  sevei'al  interviews  during  the  three-and-twenty 
years  he  spent  in  Europe,  the  greater  part  of  which 


HIS  STUDIO.  289 

time  Avas  passed  in  Holland  and  Germany,  where 
lie  was  educated  at  the  expense  of  the  Dutch 
fTovernment.  The  rest  of  the  time  he  employed 
in  travellino;  through  France,  Switzerland,  the 
Tvrol,  Siv.  His,  however,  Avas  an  exceptional 
case,  the  reason  of  which  I  do  not  think  it  necessaiy 
to  mention. 

At  our  request  he  took  us  to  his  studio,  a  short 
distance  from  the  house,  which  we  reached  by  a 
walk  covered  with  trellis-work,  thickly  entwined 
with  creepers.  Like  the  sandnm  sdncfonim  of  all 
artists,  tlio  room  was  filled  with  models,  busts, 
frameless  and  unfinished  pictures,  together  with 
other  appurtenances  coimected  with  the  fine  arts. 
AmoiiLfst  this  confused  mass  two  large  subjects, 
i-f(|uitiiii:  onlv  a  few  last  touclies  to  finish  tlicm, 
chiiuKHl  our  especial  attention.  One  was  a  land- 
sc;ij)e  taken  in  the  province  of  Kadoe,  inchidiiig 
■J  view  (if  tlie  Murh;il)r»o  and  Mara))i.  The  grey 
-moke  I'isinir  frt;ni  the  v(jlcano  was  elear  and  distinct 
V(»[..   [I.  I 


290  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

against  the  sky,  which  was  tinted  with  the  mingling 
hues  of  evening.  The  other,  called  the  Inunda- 
tion, represented  a  touching  scene  in  the  melancholy 
catastrophe  in  Banjoemas  which  I  have  before 
related.  On  a  small  mound  or  hillock,  decreasing 
in  size  at  each  roll  of  the  water,  we  see  a  Wodono, 
or  village  chief,  waving  his  handkerchief  as  though 
for  help,  his  eyes  evidently  fixed  on  some  object  in 
the  distance,  and  his  face  expressive  of  the  deepest 
anxiety.  Near  him  are  boys  with  terror-stricken 
countenances.  An  old  Avoman  clings  to  the  neck 
of  her  son,  who  having  swum  with  his  precious 
burden  to  this  place  of  temporary  safety,  now  ap- 
peal's almost  exhausted  with  his  efforts.  A  young 
mother  has  apparently  lost  all  sense  of  the  sur- 
rounding danger  in  the  contemplation  of  her 
babe,  which  she  presses  fondly  to  her  bosom,  as 
though  in  hope  that  warmth  might  rekindle  the 
life  she  fancies  is  only  partially  extinct.  A  few 
are  seen  swimming  towards  the  mound,  hoping  to 


THE  INUXDATIOX.  291 

reach  that  small  haven  before  their  strength  fails 
them.  Two  buffaloes,  with  blood-shot  eyes  and  dis- 
tended nostrils,  are  rapidly  ap])roaching  the  desired 
S])ot,  apparently  determined  to  gain  a  footing  there, 
on  perceiving  which  tlie  more  energetic  of  the 
gi'oup  assail  tlie  poor  brutes  with  stones,  in  order  to 
deter  them  from  venturing  on  the  limited  space. 
All  in  the  background  is  dreary  waste  and  ruin, 
and  the  dark  clouds,  charged  with  rain,  seein 
to  be  the  gloomy  presages  of  inevitable  death 
to  the  melanclioly  group  so  closely  pressed 
together.  But  all  hope  is  not  lost  yet — far  off 
in  tlie  hori/on  is  a  small  craft,  wliicli  I  had 
not  j)rcvi()usly  noticed,  the  prow  of  whicli  is 
c'learing  its  way  towards  the  ?noun<l,  to  save  the 
Httic  baiirj  of  sufferers  who  lune  taken  refuge 
there.  ^\  ith  the  exception  of  some  sVi<j]\t  ex- 
travngDnce  in  tlie  Circassian-shaped  features  of  tlie 
women,  and  the  tor*  classical  iigures  of  the  men — 
an  exaggi'i-atioii    jiardonabK'    in  a  nati\e  artist   de- 

1;     -2 


292  LIFE  IX  JAVA. 

picting  native  subjects — it  is  certainly  a  fine,  ani- 
mated scene,  boldly  conceived  and  executed  in  a 
masterly  style. 

After  inspecting  the  paintings,  the  artist  took  us 
into  his  grounds,  which  are  tastefully  laid  out,  and 
showed  us  a  new  house  he  was  having  built  after  a 
peculiar  style  of  his  own,  I  asked  him  whether 
there  were  any  other  Javanese  artists  who  had  at- 
tained to  proficiency  in  the  art,  and  he  replied, 
not  that  he  was  aware  of,  adding  humorously : — 
'"'  Cafe  et  sucre,  siicre  et  cafe,  sont  tout-ce  quon 
parte  ici.  C"est  vraiernent  un  air  tride  jjour  tin 
artiste.^' 

Next  mornins  we  bade  adieu  to  Batavia,  and  on 
the  second  day  touched  at  Mintok,  where  we  went 
on  shore  for  an  hour  or  two.  The  third  day  saw 
us  at  Rhio,  and  on  the  noon  of  the  fourth  we  hailed 
(jnce  more  the  deej),  well-sheltered  harbour  of  Singa- 
pore ;  its  hills,  verdant  plantations,  and  white  line 
of  spacious  houses  facing  the  sea,  opening  before 


SLAM  AT  TIXGAL  !  293 

US,  as  we  glided  smoothly  between  a  forest  of  ships, 
like  the  unexpected  scenes  in  a  diorama.  At  the 
word  "  Stop  'err !"  we  dropped  anchor  opposite  the 
esplanade,  or  padang ;  and  not  until  the  sound 
caused  by  the  splash  of  the  cable  had  died  away 
in  the  calm  water,  could  we  fully  realize  the  fact 
that  the  noise  and  bustle  we  had  of  late  so  con- 
stantly experienced  were  now  over,  and  that  our 
three  months'  tour,  like  all  things  earthly,  had  come 
to  an  end  I 

Headers,  I  have  done.  Let  me  now  say  to  you,  in 
the  words  of  tlie  peoj^le  amongst  whom  we  have,  as 
it  were,  been  living  tlirough  these  two  volumes,  and 
whose  manners,  customs,  habits,  and  dispositions 
I  have  faintly  endeavoured  to  portray,  Slainaf 
7'/J/<A//.'— "Farewc-li:" 

I  Immblv  trust  my  efforts  as  guide  have  not 
])rovcd  \ain.  The  finest  scenery  has  often  many 
drawljacks.     The  travellei'  may  be  wcai-ic(l  either  by 


294  LIFE  IN  JAVA. 

its  lengthened  monotony,  its  sombre  colouring,  its 
cold,  uninteresting  outlines,  or  by  the  heated,  dried - 
up  plains  over  which  he  has  to  pass.  I  apprehend 
the  reader  may  sometimes  have  been  fatigued  by 
my  descriptions  of  the  scenes  over  which  I  have 
conducted  him.  My  aim,  however,  has  been  to 
supply  a  deficiency  of  information  on  a  part  of  the 
tropics  often  trodden,  but  of  which  we  have  few 
trustworthy  records.  If  I  have  succeeded  in  giving 
a  true  description  of  what  I  saw,  and  if  the  fore- 
going pages  should  prove  both  a  source  of  amuse- 
ment and  instruction,  I  shall  indeed  feel  well 
satisfied. 

To  my  book,  ere  we  part,  let  me  say,  Slamat 
jalan  ("  Happy  journe}' !")  May  thy  way  be  as 
pleasant  as  ours  was,  during  our  interesting  excur- 
sion through  the  hi^ppy,  smiling  land  of  Java ! 


APPENDIX. 


APPENDIX. 


The  rate  of  posting  tlirough  Java  is  as  follows: — 

Rupees.*  Cents. 

For  four  horses  for  one  ])OSt  of  ten  miles  1  25 

For  six                ,.                .,                .,  1  50 

For  six  horses  and  two  buffaloes    ,,  1  75 

For  six  liorses  and  four  bufl'aloes    ,,  2  0 

The  names  of  the  different  posts  between  the 
principal  towns  and  villages  at  which  we  sto])ped 
for  relays  of  horses  arc,  as  far  as  memory  and  note- 
l)ook  will  supply,  in  the  following  order  : — 

I  ItO.M   SLKAHAYA  To   PA.SSKKOKWAN SKVEN   I'OSTS. 

Seratin.  Kondan-rlcgie. 

Srociii.  Hanjril. 

Tjandic.  l)Uiid()<»iij:an. 

l*<>r()n;.^.  I'a.^.seroewan. 


*  Oijc  Florin  or  Kupee  =-^  100  Javanese  Cents. 


298  APPENDIX. 

FROM  PASSEROEWAX  TO  PASSERPAX. 

Cobontjandie.  Passerpan. 

To  Tosarie  on  horseback. 


PASSEROEWAN  TO  PROBOLINGO. 

Rajussa.  Woetloesan. 

Benongan.  

Bagnio  Biro  (Bine  water).     Probolingo. 
(iratie — (Noted  for  dncks 
and  alligators). 


FROM  PR0150I.IXG0  TO  KLAKA. 

Jorong-an.  Klaka. — (Fine  lake  and 

Letids.  scenery. 

Malassan. 

Return  by  the  same  road  to  Passeroewan. 


FROM  PASSEROEAVAN  TO  MALANG. 

Redjajan.  Sawang. 

Areng-areng.  Singasarie.  —  (See      the 

Wonosarie.  Ruins). 

Prolong.  Malang. 

Jatasarie. — (Teak  flower.) 


APPENDIX. 


299 


FROM  MALAXG  TO  BATOE. 

Amman.  Batoe. 

Bcdju. 

Batoe  to  Nagntang  on  horseback.  Fine  mountainous 
country  and  charming  scenery.  See  the  Cascade  of 
Tretcs  en  loute. 


FKOM  SLRABAYA  TO  KEDERIE. 


(it'dongtoerie. 

Trosobo. 

Krian. 

Wonosaric. 

Ke<longmango 

Modjokerto. 

Madjaagong. 


Terongan. 

Denanyha. 

Tungoong-an. 

Brandjejer. 

(iroi)i)io. 

BromjK). 

Ke(hrie. 


KKIH.UIE  TO  MADIOEX. 

(iicnging.  Sai'adan. 

I'atjie.  Tjaroclian. 

Po.iso.  .Bah)ngchoap 

Bogai-.  Bagie. 

\\'ilaniran^.  Madiocn. 


MAI>I(ir;N    TO  NGAWIE. 

Mahaspati.  Pocrwodadi. 
Niirawie. 


300  APPENDIX. 

NGAAVIE  TO  SOERAKARTA. 

Ngalay.  Mongkong. 

Bogo.  Suko\vinangong. 

Gendingan.  Jogomassan. 

Poolly.  Jorong. 

Kanatan.  Solo,  or  Soerakarta. 


SOERAKARTA  TO  DJOKJOKARTA, 

Karta-soera.  Brambanan. — (See  the 

Talangoo.  Temples), 

Karanggoony.  Soo-ka-nain. 

Klatten,  Djokjokarta. 
Tankisans:. 


DJOKJOKARTA  TO  TUMUXGONG. 

Moentilan,  Probolingo. 

]Man(loet. — (See  Magelan. 

the  Temple.)  Setjan. 

Borobodoo. — (See  Tumungong. 

the  Ruins.) 

TUMUNGONG  TO  WOXOSOBO. 

Paponan.  Wonosobo. 

Rotjo. 


APPENDIX.  301 

WOXOSOBO  TO  BANUJARXAGARA. 

Ciimpong  Tungoro.  Sawangan. 

Braj'ot.  Bandj  arnagara . 

liANDJAKNAGAUA  TO  BAXD.TOEMAS. 

Hawang.  Poenvorodjo. 

Pocrwandara.  Peassa. 

Paiitar.  Tianjoemas. 

BAXJOEMAS  TO  TJILAT.JAI"  (ciIlLACil AI'). 

liantoc.  (ioiiu'ter. 

Siiiiipiing.  Tjilatjap.  —  (Return     to 

IMaos.  Baiijoeiiias.) 

\'laliar. 

iiANJor.MAs  TO  ai),iii;ari:n(;. 

Snkai-ajali.  Kali  ^Iiingis. 

Pdcrwokcrto.  Adjihareng. 

Miiiigal. 

AD.rir.AUKNi;  to  rvciAi.. 

I'l-ukaiisiii  jarig.  l-al)iiks{'i'. 

l\:aiig-(  iaiti'j-.  Lawic. 

Mijgasaric.  Handjaraii. 

lliiiicliaiiiigo.  Tagul. 

Ualujjidaiig 


302 


APPENDIX. 


TAGAL  TO  CIIERIBOX. 


Lumbungan. 

Klampok. 

Kloewoet. 

Tandjoeng. 

Losarie, 


Gebang. 
Pangarengaii. 
Moendoe. 
Clicribon. 


CIIERIBON  TO  SAMADUNG. 


Wadas. 

Chaplong. 

Cumpol 

Banaspanteii 

Banjeran. 

Chunda. 

Tjikoeroe. 

Tjiberan. 

Baturoejoek. 

Samadung. 

Karangsambong. 

SAMADUNG  TO  SIXDAXGLAVA. 


Chiarung.  Tjinoenoek. 

Tanjong  Sarie.  Sindanglaya. 

^    Sindanglaya  one  post  to  Bandong. 


BANDONG  TO  TJANDJUll. 


Tjimalie. 
Tjipadalarang. 
Tjisitoe. 
Tjiyattat. 


Rajabniundala. 
Tjissokkan. 
Soekamantrie. 
Tjandjor. 


APPENDIX. 

TJAXDJOR  TO  SIXAXGLAYA. 

Ride  to  the  Pangarango  and  Ghedde. 

SIXAXGLAYA  TO  BUYTEXZORG. 

Megamendoiig.  Guddok, 

'i'ugoo.  Wangon. 

Passangrahaii.  Buvtenzorir. 


I5UYTEXZ0KG  SO  BATAVIA. 

Cliiloor.  Taiijong. 

Tjibinong.  Bidarachina. 

Tjinianie.s.  Batavia. 


THK  p:nj). 


aviw.v  :    PIU.NTKi;  BY  MACD.JNALD  AND  TUUWKI.L,  BIJiNUEIM    IK)U8K. 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

Los  Angeles 
This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


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