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THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


PRESENTED  BY 


Charles  P..  Corning 


St.  Mary's-in-tlie  Mountains 
Littleton,  N.  H. 


THE   LIFE   OF 
COLONEL  FRED  BURNABY 


COLONEL  FRED  BURNABY 

OF  THE   ROYAL  HORSE  GUARDS  (BLUES). 

From  Photo  by  Thomas  Fall.     By  permission  of  Mrs.  Aubrey  Le  Blond  (formerly  Mrs. 

Fred  Burnaby). 


0[lo 


h  %' 


THE  LIFE  OF        """' 


COLONEL  FRED  BURNABY 


BY 


THOMAS    WRIGHT 

Author  of  "  The  Life  of  Edward  Fitz  Gerald,"  "  The  Life  of  Sir  Richard  Burton, 
"  The  Life  of  Walter  Pater,"  etc.,  etc. 


WITH    FIFTY-NINE    PLATES. 


LONDON 
EVERETT    &    CO. 

42  ESSEX  STREET,  STRAND 

1908 


Printed  by  William  J.  McKenzie, 
at  the  Devonshire  Press,  Torquay. 


PA 
mult 


■  **0 


This  Work 
is  dedicated,  by  kind  permission, 

to 

Mrs.  Aubrey  Le  Blond, 

formerly  Mrs.  Fred  Barnaby. 


PREFACE. 


It  has  generally  been  assumed  that  the  age  of  Romance, 
in  so  far  as  England  is  concerned,  disappeared  with  the 
last  of  the  Plantagenets,  and  that  Henry  the  Seventh's 
Coronation  Service  was  at  once  its  farewell  and  requiem  ; 
but  a  more  romantic  career  than  that  of  Frederick  Gus- 
tavus  Burnaby,  though  it  was  passed  in  the  reign  of 
Victoria,  can  scarcely  be  conceived.  He  was  a  Coeur- 
de-Lion  in  physique,  strength,  courage,  and  magnanim- 
ity ;  and  though  he  lived  in  what  he  himself  regarded  as 
a  tame  and  pusillanimous  era,  when  Englishmen  were 
inclined  to  surrender  without  protest  to  the  first  bully 
who  presented  himself  the  benefits  which  had  come  down 
to  them  from  their  clearer-eyed  and  more  heroic  fathers, 
he  managed  to  crowd  into  a  life  of  only  forty-two  years 
as  many  exciting  incidents,  accompanied  by  hair-breadth 
escapes,  as  would  have  satisfied  even  a  Knight  Templar. 
Moreover,  the  stirring  events  of  that  life  follow  one 
another  with  the  rapidity  of  a  swiftly  moving  panorama  ; 
brave  deed  succeeding  brave  deed,  until  lastly  there  comes 
the  most  thrilling  scene  of  all — the  terrible  passage  at 
arms  on  the  field  of  Abou  Klea — and  the  hero  dead. 

'  He  was  the  only  man  whom  I  have  ever  met,"  says 
his  old  Harrow  friend,  Mr.  H.  H.  Finch,  "  who  was  totally 
devoid  of  fear." 

To  Burnaby  stagnation  was  insufferable.  For  years 
he  was  one  of  the  most  popular  men  in  England.  He 
united  in  his  person  precisely  those  qualities  which 
Englishmen  most  admire.  Of  a  fertile  invention, 
he  never  hesitated  to  take  the  initiative.  He  was 
perspicacious,  determined,  resourceful,  tenacious,  amaz- 
ingly daring.     His  audacity  again  and  again  catches  the 


viii  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

breath.     He   had   decided  opinions,    and  he   expressed 
them  with  a  soldier's  emphasis.     Thanks  to  his  keen 
sense  of  the  ridiculous,  he  met  the  onslaughts  of  his 
political  opponents  with  a  good  humour  that  blunted 
every  shaft.     In  a  certain  sense  he  belonged  to  the  rank 
and  file  ;  for  he  never  had  opportunities  of  commanding 
great  bodies  of  men,  either  in  the  field  or  from  the  senate. 
If  England  could  breed  a  million  men  like  him — with  a 
Titan's  frame  and  strength,   a  Creighton's  hunger  for 
knowledge,    and    a    Roland's    passion   for    adventure — 
what  would  not  England,  with  all  her  present  lustihood, 
yet  become  !  We  need  not  ask  ourselves  whether  Burnaby 
was  a  great  man.     His  was  certainly  an  amazing  person- 
ality.    It  has  been  observed  that  there  was  no  great 
man,  in  the  ordinary  sense  of  the  term,  in  Nelson's  fleet — 
save  Nelson — and  yet  what  work  those  rare  old  sea  dogs 
did  for  England.     Whether  on  the  way  to  Khiva  or 
among   the   Devil   Worshippers    of   Armenia ;    whether 
bearding  Mr.  Chamberlain  in  his  iron  den  or  picking  off 
Arabs  at  El  Teb,  he  was  always  the  same  cheery,  deter- 
mined, courageous,  rash,  and  deadly-earnest  Burnaby. 
"  He  was  one  of  the  very  best  and  kindest  officers,"  says 
Sir  John  Willoughby  "  whom  it  has  been  my  privilege 
to    serve."     The   fox-hunting   parson  and   the   squire's 
daughter  have  not   of  late  years  been  smothered  with 
eulogy  ;    but  at  any  rate  they  bred  Burnabys,  or  men 
of  the  Burnaby  type,   and  for  them  England  has  had 
work  to  do  which  they,  and  perhaps  only  they,   were 
really  capable  of  doing. 

Although  no  polished  writer,  Burnaby  produced  bright, 
humorous  and  important  books,  and  for  many  genera- 
tions to  come  Englishmen  will  read  with  pleasure  the 
account  of  the  most  famous  of  his  rides,  that  in  which  he 
penetrated,  amid  dangers  that  might  well  have  deterred 
a  Bayard,  the  mysterious  region  of  Khiva.  "  His  Ride  to 
Khiva,"  says  Lord  Roberts,*  "excited  my  admiration  at 
the  time,  and  I  regretted  that  such  an  enterprising  officer 

*  In  a  letter  written  in  January  1908  to  Colonel  Burnaby 's  brother. 


PREFACE  ix 

should  have  been  cut  off  so  early  in  life."  Equal  in  inter- 
est is  On  Horseback  through  Asia  Minor.  There  is  no 
more  picturesque  couple  in  history  or  fiction  than  Burn- 
aby  and  his  devoted  henchman,  George  Radford. 

This  work  has  been  written  with  the  entire  sympathy 
and  the  most  kind  assistance  of  Colonel  Burnaby's 
family.  Mrs.  Le  Blond  (formerly  Mrs.  Fred  Burnaby), 
Mr.  Harry  Burnaby  (Burnaby's  only  son),  the  Rev. 
Evelyn  Burnaby,  M.A.  (Burnaby's  only  brother),  and 
Mrs.  Baillie  (his  only  surviving  sister),  have  all  helped 
in  various  ways.  Letters  and  other  documents  have 
been  placed  ungrudgingly  at  my  disposal  ;  moreover — 
boon,  indeed,  to  biographer — I  have  been  allowed  an 
absolutely  free  hand.  I  recall  with  pleasure  an  interview 
with  Mrs.  Le  Blond,and  I  have  to  thank  her  for  a  number 
of  letters  containing  important  clues.  The  Rev.  Evelyn 
Burnaby  has  been  indefatigable  in  his  enquiries  on  my 
behalf,  and  I  owe  to  him  many  an  illuminating  fact, 
many  a  piquant  anecdote. 

Mrs.  Duncan  Baillie  placed  in  my  hands  a  number 
of  her  brother's  letters  ;  and  Don  Carlos,  Duke  of  Madrid 
— one  of  Burnaby's  closest  friends — kindly  replied  to 
various  queries. 

If  Burnaby  added  to  our  Geographical  Knowledge, 
he  also  deserves  our  gratitude  on  account  of  his  efforts 
in  behalf  of  aeronautics.  He  was  the  one  strong  man 
who  stood  up  and  struggled  for  aeronautics  at  a  period 
when  the  balloon  was  regarded  as  a  toy,  and  the  whole 
subject  was  treated  with  levity,  not  only  by  the  general 
public,  but  also  by  men  in  authority.  His  purse  and  his 
brain  were  alike  at  the  service  of  his  beloved  science. 
People  at  the  present  day  have  not  the  faintest  idea 
of  the  tremendous  battle  the  aerostat  had  to  fight  in  the 
sixties,  seventies,  and  even  the  eighties  ;  but  the  efforts 
of  Burnaby  and  the  little  band  associated  with  him 
will  not  be  forgotten  when  England  has  her  fleets  in  the 
firmament,  as  well  as  on  the  high  seas. 

My  account  of  Burnaby's  connection  with  ballooning 

a2 


x      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

has  been  compiled  partly  from  his  book  A  Ride  Across  the 
Channel,  and  partly  from  Mr.  J.  W.  Prowse's  articles 
in  the  Daily  Telegraph  ;  but  my  mainstay  under  this  head 
has  been  my  kinsman  and  almost  life-long  friend,  Mr. 
Thomas  Wright,  the  distinguished  aeronaut,  who  for 
many  years  was  intimately  connected  with  Burnaby  ; 
while  his  elder  daughter  has  often  lightened  my  labours 
by  services  performed  very  cheerfully,  though  at  no  little 
inconvenience  to  herself. 

If  Burnaby  was  a  Colossus  in  stature,  a  Milo  in  strength, 
a  soldier  and  an  aeronaut,  he  was  also  a  remarkable 
linguist,  being  able  to  speak  fluently  no  fewer  than  seven 
languages,  including  Spanish,  Arabic,  Russian,  and  Turk- 
ish. 

The  story  of  that  ding-dong  fight — Burnaby's  attack 
on  Birmingham— with  its  humours  and  its  sequel,  will 
also,  I  think,  deeply  interest  the  public.  Llad  he  lived 
only  a  few  years  longer  he  and  Mr.  Chamberlain  would 
have  found  themselves  in  the  same  camp  ;  and  the  shafts 
forged  for  the  breasts  of  each  other  would  have  been  dis- 
charged, shoulder  brushing  shoulder,  at  the  common 
enemy. 

For  the  story  of  Burnaby's  political  career  I  am  in- 
debted to  Mr.  J.  Percival  Hughes,  of  the  Central  Conserv- 
ative Office,  Westminster,  who  was  Burnaby's  secretary, 
Sir  Benjamin  Stone,  Sir  James  Sawyer,  Mr.  Joseph  Row- 
lands, and  Mr.  Robert  Buckley.  Sir  Benjamin  Stone 
kindly  placed  at  my  disposal  the  documents  relating 
to  the  early  days  of  the  Primrose  League,  of  which 
Burnaby  was  one  of  the  founders.  No  one  previously 
had  had  access  to  these  papers,  consequently  the  story 
of  the  founding  of  the  Primrose  League  is  now  told 
in  its  entirety  for  the  first  time. 

Still,  the  salient  fact  in  Burnaby's  story  is  that  he 
died  for  England  ;  and  if  a  man  dies  for  his  country  it 
does  not  behove  his  compatriots  to  attempt  to  belittle 
him  just  because  he  happened  not  to  be  politically  at  one 
with  them.     The  whole  of  the  Liberal  party — to  their 


PREFACE  xi 

honour — took  this  view  at  the  time  of  Burnaby's  death. 
All  Englishmen  now  cherish  Burnaby's  memory,  as 
they  cherish  the  memory  of  Gordon  and  other  unselfish 
heroes.  To  think  of  such  men  is  to  be  moved  to  the  very 
centre,  to  be  lifted  above  ourselves,  to  recall  with  pride 
that  we  too  are  of  their  stock  and  nationality.  It  must 
strike  even  the  most  cursory  reader  in  respect  to  the  fights 
of  El  Teb  and  Abou  Klea — that  they  were  more  like 
Homeric  battles  than  incidents  in  modern  warfare. 
Herbert  Stewart,  Burnaby  and  others  stand  out  scarcely 
less  conspicuously  than  the  most  illustrious  heroes 
before  Troy  Town  ;  which  shows  that  personality  counts 
for  nearly  as  much  in  the  days  of  the  machine-gun  when 
you  fight  for  England  as  it  did  in  the  old  time,  when 
"  shields  jostled  shields,  and  lances  lances  crossed,"  all 
for  the  sake  of  a  wanton. 

England's  indebtedness  to  Burnaby  as  a  soldier  is 
brought  out  very  forcibly  in  a  letter  written  to  me  by 
Mr.  Thomas  Gibson  Bowles — Burnaby's  bosom  friend — 
whom  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  in  London,  and  who 
has  since  rendered  me  much  valuable  help.  It  is 
headed  Khartoum  under  date  26th  January,  1908, 
and  it  runs  as  follows  : 
Dear  Sir, 

It  is  a  strange  and  sad  coincidence  that  your  letter 
should  have  followed  me  to  find  me  in  Khartoum — 
the  Khartoum  for  which,  and  for  Gordon,  my  dear  friend 
gave  his  life  twenty-three  years  ago.  At  the  time  it  seemed 
to  have  been  given  uselessly  and  his  blood  to  have  been 
poured  with  no  effect  on  the  unslakable  desert.  Yet  it 
was  not  so.  For  the  misdeeds  of  those  who  sent  out 
Gordon  and  refused  him  the  aid  he  asked  for  in  any  one 
of  the  ways  he  asked  for  it,  the  blunders  of  those  who  con- 
ceived and  carried  out  the  expedition  that  failed  at  Abou 
Klea,  the  sacrifice  of  the  precious  lives  there  lost — 
these  it  was  that  bred  in  England  that  stern  silent  deter- 
mination that  led  to  the  other  and  better  effort  that  suc- 
ceeded, and  all  too  tardily  carried  out  Gordon's  injunction 


xii  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

to  "  smash  the  Mahdi."  And  if  to  the  spirits  of  Burnaby 
and  Herbert  Stewart  and  the  unnamed  who  fell  with  them, 
it  be  given  to  see  Khartoum  now — Khartoum  peaceful, 
prosperous,  and  growing  under  the  Union  Jack,  they 
would  say  "  It  was  not  in  vain  we  gave  our  lives,  it  was 
for  this." 

Yet  the  sadness  of  Khartoum  is  great  to  me — for  Gor- 
don was  a  friend  of  mine  too,  and  when  he  fell  a  light 
went  out  such  as  had  never  before  been,  nor  ever  after 
will  be,  lit  in  modern  England.  The  whole  splendid 
blaze  of  English  history  shines  not  so  bright  and  pure. 
With  no  king,  statesman,  soldier  or  prophet,  can  he  be 
matched  who  outmatches  them  all  together  ;  and  though 
what  he  did  was  and  is  but  one  tenth  known,  and  his 
name  even  but  one  half  remembered  and  fading,  yet  some 
portion  of  his  truly  Divine  spirit  lives  in  the  men  of  his 
generation,  consciously  and  unconsciously  inspired  by 
him,  lives  and,  please  God,  will  spread  and  grow  till  it 
shall  make  England  what  she  should  be — the  light  of  the 
world  in  its  dark  places.  For  that  he  gave  his  life  and, 
however  it  seem,  that  too  was  not  given  in  vain. 

Sincerelv  vours, 

Thos.  Gibson  Bowles. 

My  account  of  the  battle  of  Abou  Klea  has  been  built 
up  from  letters  and  other  documents  supplied  me  by 
Lord  Dundonald,  Colonel  Marling,  V.C.,  Trooper  George 
Murray,  and  other  soldiers  who  were  near  Burnaby  when 
he  fell;  while  Mr.  Bennet  Burleigh*  and  Mr.  Melton 
Prior,  one  of  whose  pictures  we  are  able  to  reproduce, 
have  also  kindly  furnished  particulars  of  interest.  '  I 
shall  never  forget  Burnaby's  charming  personality, 
coolness  and  kindness,"  says  Mr.  Prior,  "  and  the  mar- 
vellous courage  he  exhibited  when  he  dashed  out  from 
the  square  at  Abou  Klea  to  save  the  lives  of  two  men, 
and  lost  his  own  in  doing  so.  Those  two  men,  if  now  alive, 
ought  to  be  able  to  testify  (on  their  knees)  to  his  sacrificing 

*I  have,  of  course,  made  use  of  Mr.  Burleigh's  account  of  the  battle 
which  appeared  in  the  Daily  Telegraph  for  January  22nd,  1885. 


PREFACE  xiii 

pluck  and  daring.     I  am  not  a  writer  like  Bennet  Bur- 
leigh, but  I  feel  what  I  write." 

To  Lieutenant-Colonel  Lord  Binning  I  am  indebted 
for  a  most  moving  narrative  (written  for  me  at  the  re- 
quest of  the  Rev.  Evelyn  Burnaby),  for  a  plan  of  the 
battle,  and  also  for  a  number  of  letters,  including  the 
following  : 

Mellerstain, 

Kelso,  N.B. 
Dear  Mr.  Burnaby, 

I  send  you  my  MS.  in  the  hope  of  its  being  found 
serviceable.  I  will  send  an  old  photo  of  '85  in  a  few  days, 
as  you  have  so  flatteringly  asked  me  to,  and  shall  be 
very  pleased  that  it  should  appear  in  a  book  which  will 
be  widely  read,  and  I  am  sure  appreciated. 

May  I  make  this  one  stipulation  ?  i.e.,  that  it  may  be 
taken  verbatim  as  written,  with  all  faults  of  grammar  and 
diction,  as  I  have  attempted  to  write  the  true  unvarnished 
history  and  account  of  a  memorable  fight  from  a  point  of 
vantage  which  probably  few  had,  as  I  was  out  till  the 
last  moment  rallying  the  rear  face  of  the  square,  and 
the  accounts  of  newspaper  men  who  were  not  actually 
on  the  field,  as  also  those  of  Sir  C.  Wilson  and  Count 
Gleichen  must,  from  their  positions  in  the  field,  have 
been  written  to  a  great  extent  from  hearsay.  The  im- 
plication that  the  men  of  the  Heavies  gave  way  or  allowed 
the  square  to  be  broken  is  one  which  should  certainly  be 
set  at  rest  once  for  ever. 

Believe    me, 
Yours   very    sincerely, 

Binning. 

I  have  to  thank  Sir  Francis  Burnand  for  the  section 
(No.  52)  entitled  "  Concerning  Absalom  ";  Mr.  John  Payne 
for  writing  specially  for  this  book  a  fine  sonnet  on  Burn- 
aby ;  Mr.  H.W.  Lucy  (Toby  M.P.  of  Punch)  for  permission 
to  use  the  particulars  of  the  balloon  ascent  recorded  in 
Chapter  VI.  ;  the  Rev.  G.  E.  Britten,  Vicar  of  Somerby, 
for  various  information  and  the  loan  of  photographs  ;  Mr. 


xiv  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

Stephen  Solly,  for  the  account  of  the  visit  to  the  Vienna 
Exhibition  ;  Sir  Redvers  Buller,  for  replies  to  queries 
respecting  the  Nile  Expedition  ;  and  Mr.  Henry  Storey, 
for  particulars  of  the  battles  of  El  Teb,  at  both  of  which 
he  was  present.  I  am  indebted  for  miscellaneous  inform- 
ation to  the  Earl  of  Erroll,  Mr.  Thomas  Davie,  of  Somer- 
by,  who  lent  me  some  of  Burnaby's  letters  ;  the  Head- 
master of  Harrow,  the  Rev.  R.  Nutt,  Miss  Rose,  Miss 
Hornsby,  the  Rev.  Paul  Wyatt,  and  Mr.  Robert  Haskins, 
of  Bedford.  I  have  to  thank  the  Editors  of  Punch,  the 
Illustrated  London  News,  The  Graphic,  The  Strand  Maga- 
zine, for  use  of  illustrations  ;  and  Mr.  H.  Pilter,  proprietor 
of  the  Birmingham  Dart,  for  the  use  of  a  very  interesting 
series  of  political  cartoons,  which  appeared  in  that  period- 
ical. The  good-natured  satire  of  The  Bart  has  for  many 
years  been  the  amusement  of  the  Midlands,  and  the 
clever  cartoons  of  Mr.  Mountfort,  who  I  am  glad  to  say 
is  still  living,  and  Mr.  G.  F.  Sershall,  are  prized  by  collec- 
tors. Lastly,  I  owe  particular  thanks  to  the  Proprietors 
of  The  Owl,  for  permission  to  use  cartoons  from  that 
paper,  and  to  the  courtesy  of  Mr.  C.  J.  Moore  Martin, 
who  kindly  replied  to  my  questions  concerning  them. 

The  following  is,  I  believe,  a  complete  list  of  those 
who  have  helped  me,  and  I  wish  to  express  to  each  my 
hearty  thanks  : 

Mrs.  Duncan  Baillie,  (formerly  Miss  Annie  Burnaby),  Mr.  Duncan 
Baillie,  Mr.  Charles  Bayley,  Lieutenant  Colonel  Lord  Binning,  Mr.  A.  C. 
Bishop,  Mr.  J.  Blaiberg,  Mr.  T.  Gibson  Bowles,  Rev.  G.  E.  Britten, 
Mr.  Robert  J.  Buckley,  Sir  Redvers  Buller,  Rev.  Evelyn  Burnaby,  Sir 
Francis  Burnand,  Mr.  Frank  Chater,  Rev.  Arthur  Cross,  Mr.  Thomas 
Davie,  Mr.  William  Davis,  The  Earl  of  Erroll,  Mr.  William  Field,  Mr. 
H.  N.  Field,  Rev.  J.  E.  Gilbert,  Mr.  Charles  Godfry,  Mr.  R.  Haskins, 
Mr.  T.  W.  E.  Higgins,  Miss  Hornsby,  Mr.  J.  Percival  Hughes,  Mrs. 
Le  Blond  (formerly  Mrs.  Fred  Burnaby),  Mr.  Charles  Litchfield,  Mr. 
Henry  W.  Lucy,  Mr.  Gilbert  Mackenzie,  Colonel  Percival  Marling,  Mr. 
J.  C.  Moss,  Mr.  George  Murray,  Mr.  Henry  W.  Nutt,  Rev.  R.  Nutt,  Mr. 
George  Rose  Norton,  Mr.  Herbert  Page,  Mr.  Walter  Pepys,  Rev.  J.  T.  W. 
Petley,  Rev.  John  Pickford,  Mr.  H.  Pilter,  Mr.  B.  Redstone,  Field 
Marshall  Lord  Roberts,  Rev.  F.  Roberts,  Mr.  Frederick  Rolls,  Miss 
Emma  Rose,  Mr.  Joseph  Rowlands,  Sir  James  Sawyer,  Sir  John 
Willoughby,  Mr.  K  L.  Shepherd,  Mr.  A.  Shaken,  Miss  K.  Simkin, 
Mr.  Stephen  Solly,  Sir  Benjamin  Stone,  Mr.  H.  Storey,  Mr.  Stephen 
Webber,  Mr.  Walter  Wisdom,  Rev.  Canon  Wright,  Mr.  Thomas  Wright 
(the  aeronaut).  Miss  Bessie  Wright,  and  the  Rev.  Paul  Wyatt. 


PREFACE  xv 

I  have  been  indebted  to  the  following  works  : 

Baker  Pasha,  War  in  Bulgaria,  2  vols.,  1879. 

Bnrnaby  (Colonel  Fred),  His  Works.     See  Appendix  I. 

Burnaby  (Rev.  Evelyn),  Memories  of  Famous  Trials, 
Land's  End  to  John  0'  Groat's  House. 

Coxwell  (Henry),  My  Life  and  Balloon  Experiences,  1887. 

Gordon,  Life  of  General.     W.  P.  Nimmo. 

Gordon,  Colonel,  in  Central  Africa,  1874-1879.  Edited 
by  G.  Birkbeck  Hill. 

Graphic,  The,  31st  January,  1885. 

Mann  (R.K.),  The  Life,  Adventures  and  Political  Opin- 
ions of  Frederick  Gustavus  Burnaby,  1882. 

Nevill,  Lady  Dorothy,  The  Reminiscences  of,  1906. 

Nevill,  Lady  Dorothy,  Leaves  from  the  Note-Books  of, 
1908. 

Ware  (J.  Redding)  and  Mann  (R.K.),  The  Life  and  Times 
of  Colonel  Fred  Burnaby. 

Wolff,  Sir  Henry  Drummond,  Rambling  Recollections, 
1908. 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER     I 
3rd  March,  1842 — 30th  September,  1859 

EARLY  DAYS  AT  BEDFORD 

PAGE 

i .  Childhood  at  Bedford        ......  l 

2.  Bedford  in  the  Forties      ------  5 

3.  St.  Peter's  Church  :  Letters,    Bedford  Grammar  School  (1849)  7 

4.  "A  respectable  middle-aged  man  "          -             -             -             -  16 

5.  Tinwell  (May,  1852),  and  Harrow  (Jan.,  1855)    -             -             -  19 

6.  Oswestry  :  The  Goose       ------  22 

7.  Dresden  :  He  joins  the  Blues        -             -             -             -  25 

CHAPTER     II 

30th  September,  1859 — 31st  December,  1867 

BALLOONING 

8.  A  Balloon  Ascent  from  Cremorne,  21st  July,  1864  -  -         29 

9.  A  Descent  at  Bedford,  July  1864  -  -  -  33 

10.  Feats  of  Strength  -  34 

11.  A  Shooting  Fracas,  about  1865     -  -             -             -             _  39 

12.  The  Rev.  Gustavus  removes  to  Somerby,  2nd  June,  1866  -  39 

13.  An  Accident  in  the  Air,  1S67        -----  42 

14.  Schwalback  :  The  militant  Pole  -  -             -             -             -  45 

CHAPTER     III 
1  st  January,  1868— November,  1870 

IN     SPAIN     AND     MOROCCO 

15.  Mr.  T.  Gibson  Bowles  :  Vanity  Fair,  7th  November,  1868         -  47 

16.  At  Pau,  16th  December,  1868       -----  48 

17.  In  Seville,  nth  January,  1869      -             -             -             -  50 

18.  Burnaby  as  a  Troubadour,  1 8th  February,  1869              -  51 

19.  At  a  Tentadero      -------  ^2 

20.  The  Moorish  Dancing  Girls,  17th  March,  1869  -             -  56 

B 


xviii  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

CHAPTER     IV 
December,  1870 — November,  1874 

IN     RUSSIA     AND    ITALY     :     ADVENTURES     IN     THE     CARLIST     WAR 


PAGE 


21.  In  Russia,  December  1870  -----  59 

22.  With  the  Prince  of  Wales  to  Vienna,  May  1872  -  61 

23.  Death  of  the  Rev.  Gustavus  Burnaby,  15th  July,  1872  -  -  63 

24.  George  Radford  :  Illness  at  Naples  -             -             -  64 

25.  In  the  Carlist  War  :  Autumn,  1874         -  -            -            -  68 

CHAPTER     V 
1st  November,  1874 — February,  1875 

IN  THE  SOUDAN  WITH  GORDON 

26.  A  scientific  Balloon  Ascent,  3rd  November,  1874  :  Mr.  Thomas 

Wright  -------         75 

27.  The  Journey  to  Sobat,  November,  1874— 5th  February,  1875    -         81 

28.  Gordon,  7th  February,  1875  -----         85 

CHAPTER     VI 
February,   1875 — -February,  1876 

A      RIDE      TO      KHIVA 

29.  To  Kasala,  30th  November,  1875  -  -  -  -        87 

30.  Across  the  Desert  to  Khiva  -  -  95 

31.  Khiva  and  its  Khan  ------       100 

CHAPTER     VII 
February,  1876 — November,  1876 

BALLOON     ASCENTS    FROM     THE     CRYSTAL     PALACE 

32.  An   Ascent  with  Captain  Colvile  and  Mr.  H.  W.  Lucy,  25th 

August,  1875  -  -  -  -  -  -       109 

33.  Ascents  with  Mr.  Wright  and  others       -  -  -  -       in 

CHAPTER     VIII 
November,  1876 — Spring,  1877 

TRAVELS     IN     ASIA     MINOR 

34.  Burnaby  and  Radford  set  out  on  their  travels    -  -  -  115 

35.  Mohammed  -  -  -  -  -  -  I23 

36.  Among  the  Devil  Worshippers     -----  126 

37.  Burnaby  prescribes  for  a  Persian  lady     -  -  -  128 

CHAPTER     IX 

Spring,  1877 — February,  1878 

BURNABY  AND  RADFORD  AT  THE  SEAT  OF  THE  WAR  IN  TURKEY 

38.  Burnaby    and    Radford    proceed    to    the    seat    of  the   War, 

November,  1877  ------       133 

39.  At  the  Battle  of  Task-kesan,  31st  December,  1877  -       135 

40.  Death  of  Radford,  February  1878  -  -       142 


CONTENTS  xix 

CHAPTER     X 

February,  1878 — 31st  December,  1881 

MARRIAGE,     AND     THE    BIRMINGHAM     ELECTION 

PAGE 

41.  Candidate  for  Birmingham  :  Mr.  J.  B.  Stone,  1878        -  -  147 

42.  Burnaby  and  Gladstone,  29th  October,  1878       -  153 

43.  Marriage,  25th  June,  1879  ....  -  158 

44.  Comedy  at  Wolverhampton  ...  -  163 

45.  A  Merry  Mill  at  Leicester  -  -  -  164 

46.  The  Birmingham  election,  31st  March,  1880      -  167 

CHAPTER     XI 
10th  December,  1881 — 4th  March,  1882 

THE  POWELL  AND  THE  BRINE  AND  SIMMONS  ATTEMPTS  TO 
CROSS  THE  CHANNEL  BY  BALLOON. 

47.  Tragic  Balloon  Accident,  Death  of  Mr.  Walter  Powell,  M.P., 

10th  December,  1881  .....       174 

48.  The  Brine  and  Simmons'  Balloon  Misadventure,  4th  March, 

1882      --------       177 

CHAPTER     XII 

4th  March,  1882— 5th  June,  1882 

ACROSS     THE     CHANNEL     BY    BALLOON 

49.  Burnaby  crosses  the  Channel,  23rd  March,  1882  -  -       179 

50.  The  Proposed  Ascent  from  Bedford,  5th  June,  1882       -  -       193 

CHAPTER     XIII 
5th  June,  1882 — December,  1883 

TRAVELS     IN     SPAIN     AND     TUNIS      \     BURNING     SPEECHES 

51.  In  Spain  with  Mr.  Henri  Deutsch,  March,  1883  -  -       197 

52.  Concerning  Absalom,  August,  1883  -  -  -  200 

53.  Speeches   at    Birmingham,    October    2nd,    and   Wednesbury, 

October  17th   -------       204 

54.  His  last  visit  to  Spain,  October,  1883       ...  -       205 

55.  Speeches    at    Bristol,    Preston,   Bradford    and   Birmingham, 

November  13th — December  20th       ...  -      205 

CHAPTER     XIV 
December,  1883 — 10th  January,  1884 

THE     FOUNDING    OF    THE     PRIMROSE     LEAGUE 

56.  The  Primrose  League        ------       209 

57.  Anecdotes  (The  Man  in  Peascod  Street  :  Others  like  Her  : 

Life  worth  Living)      -  -  -  -  -  -213 


xx      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

CHAPTER     XV 
ioth    January,    1884 — 29th    March,    1884 

THE     TWO     BATTLES     OF     EL    TEB 

PAGE 

58.  First  Battle  of  El  Teb,  5th  February,  1884  -  -  215 

59.  Storey's  Miraculous  Escape         -  218 

60.  Second  Battle  of  El  Teb,  28th  February,  1884  -             -  -  221 

61.  Anecdotes   (Harry    Burnaby    :    The   Prayer  Burnaby  never 

Prayed)  -  -  -  -  -  -  -      228 

CHAPTER     XVI 
30th  March,  1884— ioth  November,  1884 

THE     BIRMINGHAM     RIOTS 

62.  "  The  El  Teb  Speeches,"  15th  April,  1884  -  -  -       229 

63.  Burnaby  and  the  Sweep  -  233 

64.  The  Banquet  in  the  Assembly  Rooms  :  Mr.    Rowlands,    14th 

October,  1884  -  -  -  -  -  -      236 

65.  The  Great  Riots  :  Mr.  Buckley  clears  the  Platform,  October 

18S4      --------  239 

66.  The  Yellow  Jug     -            -            -            -            -            -            -  244 

67.  Brompton  and  Somerby    ------  248 

68.  The  Blues  proud  of  him    -             -             -  252 

69.  He  plans  a  journey  to  Timbuctoo            ....  256 

CHAPTER     XVII 
ioth  November,  1884 — 17th  January,  1885 

DAL    ON     THE     NILE 

70.  "  Very  Unhappy  "  .   -  260 

71.  His  last  Letter,  28th  December,  1885      ...  -       266 

CHAPTER     XVIII 

17th  January,  1885 

THE     BATTLE     OF     ABOU     KLEA 

72.  The  night  before  the  Battle  -  -  -  -  -       271 

73.  Chats  with  Mr.  Bennet  Burleigh,  Mr.  Melton  Prior,  and  Lord 

Binning  _„_.---       272 

74.  Death  of  Burnaby  ......       289 

CHAPTER     XIX 

LIEUTENANT-COLONEL      LORD      BINNING'S     NARRATIVE  \ 
THE     BATTLE     OF    ABOU     KLEA 

[Written  specially  for  this  work] 

75.  The  Bravest  Man  in  England  dying        -  298 

76.  Other  Reminiscences        ------      304 


CONTENTS  xxi 


CHAPTER     XX 

CONCLUSION 

PAGE 

77.  Reception  of  the  News  in  England  -  -  -       307 

78.  A  Retrospect         -------       308 

79.  Burnaby's  friends  and  acquaintances       -  -  -  -       308 


1. 


APPENDICES 


Bibliography  of  Burnaby              -----  iii 

2.  Bibliography  of  Mrs.  Fred  Burnaby  (Mrs.  Aubrey  Le  Blond)  -  iv 

3.  Burnaby's  Promotions      ------  iv 

4.  A  Note  respecting  Burnaby's  mother      -  -             -  iv 

5.  Administrations  from  1868  v 

6.  Vicars  of  Somerby  from  1759       -  v 

7.  Rectors  of  St.  Peter's,  Bedford,  from  1835          -  -             -  vi 

8.  Memorials  to  Burnaby      ------  vi 


LIST     OF      PLATES 


i.  COLONEL    FRED     BURNABY         -  -  Frontispiece 

2.  REV.      GUSTAVUS      BURNABY,      MRS.      BURNABY, 

AND     ST.     PETER'S,     BEDFORD         -  -  Page     3 

3.  ST.     PETER'S     RECTORY,     BEDFORD  9 

4.  SOMERBY     HALL         ------  13 

5.  SOMERBY     CHURCH 17 

6.  BEDFORD     GRAMMAR     SCHOOL    AND     INTERIOR 

OF     SOMERBY     CHURCH                        ...  23 

7.  MRS.     MANNERS-SUTTON   -----  37 

8.  THE     ASCENT     WITH     M.     GODARD  43 

9.  MRS.    EVELYN     BURNABY,    DON     CARLOS     (DUKE 

OF     MADRID)     AND     MRS.     PAGE     -            -            -  65 

10.  STOPPED     BY    THE     CARLISTS  71 

11.  MR.   THOMAS    WRIGHT,   THE   AERONAUT      -            -  77 

12.  MAP    :    THE     JOURNEY     TO     SOBAT  83 

13.  MAP  :      A     RIDE     TO     KHIVA  97 

14.  "VANITY     FAIR"     CARTOON        -            -            -            -  103 

15.  AN     ASCENT     WITH     MR.     LUCY             -             -             -  107 

16.  THE     DESCENT            ------  u3 

17.  MAP    :    JOURNEY    THROUGH     ASIA     MINOR             -  119 

18.  MAP    :    THE     RETREAT     FROM     KAMARLI     -            -  139 

19.  GEORGE     RADFORD     AND     HENRY     STOREY            -  145 

20.  SIR     BENJAMIN     STONE      -                                                     -  149 

21.  ERDINGTON     GRANGE         -            -            -            -            -  151 

22.  MRS.     FRED     BURNABY      -            -            -            -            -  155 

23.  THE     BIRMINGHAM     ELECTION     (CARTOON)            -  159 

24.  DON     QUIXOTE     (CARTOON)          -            -                         -  161 

25.  THE     TORY     PLATFORM      AND     THE     NEW     PRO- 

FESSOR    OF     LANGUAGE     (CARTOONS)      -            -  165 

26.  A     VALENTINE     (CARTOON)-         -            -            -             -  169 

27.  JUST     BEFORE     THE     BATTLE    -             -             -             -  171 

28.  MAP  :  BALLOON  VOYAGE  ACROSS   THE  CHANNEL  1S3 

29.  FRED'S   NEXT   ATTEMPT   (CARTOON)   -            -            -  189 

30.  BURNABY     AT     EL     TEB     -             -             -             -             -  219 

31.  WELL     DONE     FRED     (CARTOON)           -             -             -  225 

32.  CARTOON     FROM     "PUNCH"       -            -            -            -  231 

33.  OPENING     THE     CAMPAIGN     (CARTOON)         -            -  23; 

34.  BEARDING     THE     LION     (CARTOON)     -             -             -  241 

35.  A     COUNCIL     OF     WAR     (CARTOON)      -            -            -  245 

36.  SIR  JAMES  SAWYER   AND    MR.    ROBERT  BUCKLEY  249 


xxiv  LIST    OF    PLATES    (Continued) 

37      MR.     PERCIVAL     HUGHES                           -            -            -  253 

38.  MR.     HARRY     BURNABY      -            -            -            -            -  257 

39.  THE     SQUARE     AT     ABOU     KLEA           -            -            -  269 

40.  BURNABY  AT  ABOU  KLEA  (FROM  "  THE  GRAPHIC  ")  273 

41.  BURNABY    AT    ABOU    KLEA    (FROM    "THE   ILLUS- 

TRATED   LONDON     NEWS  ")    -            -            -            -  275 

42.  COLONEL      MARLING     AND      MR.     JOSEPH      ROW- 

LANDS           -------  277 

43.  LIEUT-COLONEL  LORD  BINNING  AND  CORPORAL 

MACINTOSH 279 

44.  THE     BATTLE     OF     GUBAT            -            -            -            -  281 

45.  THE     DART     MOURNS 283 

46.  THE    DAVID    AND    JONATHAN    WINDOW    AND   THE 

BURNABY   VAULT 287 

47.  THE     REV.     EVELYN     BURNABY,     M.A.            -            -  291 

48.  TROOPER     GEORGE     MURRAY     -                                      -  295 


FREDERICK     GUSTAVUS     BURNABY 

By   JOHN    PAYNE 

He  was  of  those  with  heart  and  hand  who  reared 
Our  England  to  her  high  imperial  place 
And  her  therein  maintained,  despite  the  base 

Curst  crew  that  fain  upon  the  rocks  had  steered,— 

Her  constant  son  who  none  and  nothing  feared 
Nor  at  life's  hand  asked  any  greater  grace 
Than  leave  to  look  far  danger  in  the  face 

And  pluck  rebated  peril  by  the  beard. 

As  first,  so  last,  the  Fates  to  him  were  kind, 
Vouchsafing  him  the  true  man's  most  desire, 
Occasion  for  the  land  he  loved  so  well, 
Fighting,  to  fall  and  on  the  desert  wind 
Pass,  borne  of  Battle's  chariots  of  fire, 

To  where,  death-shrined,  the  high-souled  heroes  dwell. 


THE  LIFE  OF 
COLONEL  FRED  BURNABY 

CHAPTER    I. 

3rd  March  1842 — 30th  September  1859. 
Early  Days  at  Bedford. 

Frederick  Gustavus  Burnaby,  the  distinguished  sol- 
dier, traveller  and  aeronaut,  the  modern  Hercules, 
"  the  bravest  of  the  brave,"  was  born 
1— Childhood       at     the     old    Rectory,    situated     on     the 

at  Bedford,  north  side  of  St.  Peter's  Green,  Bedford, 
on  3rd  March,  1842,  his  father  being 
the  Rev.  Gustavus  Andrew  Burnaby,  Rector  of  the 
adjoining  St.  Peter's  Church* ;  his  mother  Harriet, 
one  of  the  three  beautiful  daughters^  of  Henry  Villebois, 
the  Squire  of  Marham,  Norfolk.  The  Burnabys  were  of 
aristocratic  lineage,  and  Frederick  claimed  as  an  ancestor 
no  less  distinguished  a  person  than  King  Edward  I.,  who, 
indeed,  was  ever  his  great  hero  and  model.  Both  Long- 
shanks  and  his  putative  descendant  were  physically 
magnificent  men  ;  but  the  former,  with  all  his  inches, 
was  well  distanced  by  Burnaby's  six  feet  four  in  stock- 
ings. 

'-;:  The  Rev.  Gustavus  and  Mrs.  Burnaby  were  married  at  St.  Mary's, 
Bryanston  Square,  27th  November,  1833. 

+  The  others  were  Lady  Sykes  and  Maria  Vicountess  Glentworth, 
who  died  in  1904,  in  her  101st  year.  Mr.  Burnaby  was  for  a  time  Canon 
of  Middleham,  in  Yorkshire. 


2      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

Besides  being  Rector  of  St.  Peter's,  Bedford,  the  elder 
Burnaby  was  Lord  of  the  Manor  of  Somerby*  in  Leicester- 
shire, which  he  had  purchased  from  Lord  Paulet  in  1844, 
and  patron  of  the  livings  of  Somerby  and  the  adjacent 
Burrough-on-the-Hill.  He  had  acquired  his  rights  at 
Burrough  through  his  mother,  who  was  daughter  and 
heiress  of  the  Rev.  William  Brown,  Rector  of  that 
parish  and  patron  of  the  living  ;  and  who  for  many  years 
resided  at  Somerby  Hall.  The  Rev.  Gustavus  Burnaby 
had  four  children,  namely,  Mary  Jemima  (May),|  Ann 
Glentworth  (Annie), %  Frederick,  the  subject  of  this  work, 
and  Evelyn.§  A  fox-hunting  parson  of  the  old  school, 
and  a  man  of  haughty  and  proud  bearing,  the  Rev. 
Gustavus  enjoyed,  nevertheless,  the  respect,  the  love, 
and  even  the  reverence  of  the  members  of  his  congrega- 
tion. Though  hasty  and  masterful,  he  was  at  the  same 
time  generous,  magnanimous  and  well-intentioned.  He 
kept  up  considerable  state,  and  used  to  drive  to  the  race- 
course on  the  Ampthill  Road  and  elsewhere  in  his  carriage 
with  coachman  in  livery  and  footman  hanging  to  loop- 
strap  behind.  With  an  unimpeachable  cellar  and  a 
baronial  table,  he  bore  throughout  the  county  a  reputa- 
tion for  hospitality,  and  Her  Majesty's  judges,  when  on 
circuit,  and  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Bedford  and  other 
notables,  when  they  visited  the  town  on  important 
occasions,  used  to  stay  with  him,  while  he  was  often  a 
guest  at  Woburn  Abbey  and  at  Mentmore,  the  seat  of 
Lord  Rothschild.  Among  his  friends  he  numbered 
Mr.    Robert    Arkwright,    Mr.    Maniac,    Mr.    Littledale, 

*  Previous  to  his  acceptance  of  the  living  of  St.  Peter's  (7th  Feb- 
ruary, 1835)  he  for  a  time  resided  at  The  Grove,  Somerby,  a  house 
owned  by  Major  and  the  Honorable  Mrs.  Candy,  parents  of  the 
Duchess  of  Newcastle.  Occasionally  Mr.  Burnaby  officiated  at  Somerby. 
Thus  on  8th  March,  1835,  he  baptised  a  child  there,  and  his  name  appears 
again  in  the  register  under  date  21st  July,  1848. 

f  Born  at  Somerby,  8th  December,  1834;  baptised  at  Somerby  1st 
January,  1835.     She  became  Mrs.  Manners-Sutton. 

%  Born  at  Bedford,  20th  March,  1837  ;  baptised  at  St.  Peter's,  Bedford, 
21st  April,  1839.     She  became  Mrs.  Duncan  Baillie. 

§  Born  at  Bedford,  7th  January,  1848.  He  became  Rector  of  Burrough, 
1873-1883. 


Rev    GUSTAVUS    BURNABY 


Mrs.   BURNABY 


ST.    PETER'S    CHURCH,   BEDFORD,   IX    1850,    AND    COUNT 
DE    VISMES'    HOUSE. 


Lent  by  Mr.  Herbert  Page,  Bt  i 


EARLY    DAYS    AT    BEDFORD  5 

Mr.  Harry  Thornton,  Lady  Wensleydale,  Mr.  James 
Wyatt,  and  Mr.  George  Hurst,*  most  of  whom  were 
supporters  of  the  Oakley  Hunt ;  and  to  these  should 
perhaps  be  added  the  Rev.  James  Donne,  Vicar  of  St. 
Paul's,  Bedford,  and  the  Rev.  William  Monkhouse,  of 
Goldington.  He  boasted  an  excellent  library,  and  a 
garden  and  paddock  with  charming  vistas  formed  by 
magnificent  walnut  and  other  ornamental  trees,  a  fine 
rosery  and  a  spacious  aviary  well-stocked  with  foreign 
birds.  His  dependants  found  him  affable  and  indulgent, 
and  this  is,  perhaps,  the  more  to  his  credit,  as  several  of 
them  were  staunch  dissenters.  He  was  particularly 
partial  to  his  gardener,  a  good  old  fellow,  who  spent  the 
week-days  at  the  Rectory  and  Sundays  in  his  native 
village,  Ravensden,  three  miles  from  Bedford,  where 
he  donned  a  black  coat  and  acted  as  local  preacher — 
among  his  congregation  being  another  of  Mr.  Burnaby's 
servants — the  laundress. 

"  Who  preached  yesterday  ?  "  the  Rector  asked  the 
laundress  one  Monday  morning. 

"  The  gardener,  sir,"  she  replied. 

"  Where  did  he  take  his  text  from  ?  " 

"  Abbacca." 

"  Then,"  said  the  Rector,  "  I  suppose  he  told  you  not 
to  smoke  ?  " 

By  and  by  he  came  upon  the  old  man,  who  was  dig- 
ging. 

"  Where  was  your  text  on  Sunday  taken  from, 
Simons  ?  "  he  enquired. 

"  Abbacca,  sir,"  replied  the  old  man,  leaning  on  his 
spade ;  and  then,  as  the  Rector  looked  puzzled,  he  added, 
"  One  of  the  small  prophets." 

"  You  mean  Habakkuk,"  observed  the  Rector. 

"  Well,"  said  the  old  man,  "  some  on  'em  do  call  him 
Habakkuk,  but  I  favours  Abbacca." 

Always  masterful,  the  Rev.  Gustavus  was  never  quite 
so  overbearing  as  at  election  times.     Just  before  one  of 

*  Who  was  five  times  mayor  of  Bedford,  and  lived  to  be  nearly  ioo. 


6      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

the  borough  contests*  he  went  and  plumped  himself 
down  on  the  counter  of  Mr.  Haskins  the  jeweller,  whose 
shop  was  on  the  opposite  side  of  St.  Peter's  Green,  and 
said  authoritatively,  "  You'll  vote  for  Stuart,  Haskins  ?  " 

"  I'm  sure  I  shant,"  replied  Haskins. 

"  Then  I  shall  withdraw  my  custom,"  followed 
Burnaby. 

"  Then  you'll  starve  the  children,"  said  Haskins. 

After  the  election  the  Rev.  Gustavus  looked  in  again. 
"  Give  me  your  fist,  Haskins,"  he  said.  "  I'm  glad  you 
stuck  to  your  principles." 

The  new  baby,  destined  to  become  the  subject  of  these 
pages,  was  a  bouncing  one  ;  indeed,  a  second  infant 
Hercules.  It  scaled  eleven  pounds,  being  correspond- 
ingly vigorous,  while  its  father  was  correspondingly 
proud.  It  was  baptised  on  27th  March,  1842,  the  god- 
fathers being  Mr.  Frederick  R.  O.  Villebois  (Mrs.  Burn- 
aby's  uncle,  Master  of  the  Craven)  and  Mr.  Henry  Ville- 
bois (Mrs.  Burnaby's  brother,  Master  of  the  V.W.H.), 
to  whom  A  Ride  to  Khiva  came  to  be  dedicated. 

Bedford  in  those  days  was  only  a  small  town,  with  a 
population  of  barely  11,000.  Exteriorly,  the  parish 
church  of  St.  Paul  exhibited  very  much 
2  —  Bedford  in  its  present  appearance,  though  it  was 
the  Forties,  partly  hidden  by  unsightly  tenements, 
including  a  number  of  dilapidated  build- 
ings, called  Butcher's  Row.  On  the  east  side  of  the 
High  Street,  occupying  part  of  the  space  between 
Lurke  Street  and  Mill  Street,  extended  a  long  blank 
wall  overshadowed  by  magnificent  cedars,  which  bounded 
the  pleasure  gardens  of  a  Miss  Langley,  while  from  the 
Goldington  Road  to  what  is  now  Grove  Place,  swept  the 
beautiful  grounds  of  Mr.  George  Peter  Livius,  the  site  of 
whose   housef   is   now   occupied   by   Windsor   Terrace. 

*  The  hustings  were  usually  held  on  St.  Peter's  Green,  and  candidates 
were  nominated  there. 

f  Demolished  1856. 


EARLY    DAYS    AT    BEDFORD  7 

St.  Cuthbert's  Church  was  still  unfinished,  Bunyan  Meet- 
ing had  just  arisen  on  the  site  of  its  three-gabled  pre- 
decessor. In  place  of  the  present  river  embankment 
spread  a  dismal  and  fetid  swamp  ;  while  southwards 
St.  Mary's  and  St.  John's  lifted  their  crumbling  heads 
above  dingy  tenement  and  depressing  thoroughfare. 
Railways  there  were  none,  and  he  who  had  not  a  chariot 
of  his  own  was  bound  to  hire  or  content  himself  with  a 
comfortless  seat  in  the  crawling  and  creaking  carrier's 
van.  The  town  had  one  postman — a  dwarf  named 
Nichols,  and  one  post  office — kept  by  "  a  crotchety 
old  man  named  Bithrey,"  who  sat,  like  an  ogre,  behind 
a  little  wooden  door  which  you  had  to  tap  before  handing 
in  your  letter  and  a  penny. 

St.  Peter's  Church— or  to  give  its  full  name,  the  Church 
of  St.  Peter  de  Merton — has  since  Burnaby's  early  days 
been  altered  and  enlarged  almost  beyond 
recognition.     It    was    then    quite    a    tiny      3— St.  Peter's 
building — the  nave,  indeed,  being  scarcely  Church, 

larger  than  the  present  chancel ;  and  there 
were  no  aisles.  The  Rectory  grounds  adjoined  the  church- 
yard on  the  east ;  while  on  the  west  stood  a  quaintly- 
gabled  Elizabethan  homestead,  occupied  by  Mr.  Burn- 
aby's friend,  Viscount  de  Vismes*  ;  and  a  more  idyllic 
picture  than  that  formed  by  the  church  and  these  two 
antique  houses,  with  their  rich  warm  tints,  embowered 
in  luxuriant  foliage,  can  scarcely  be  conceived.  At  St. 
Peter's  there  were  services  in  the  morning  and  afternoon 
only  ;  and  the  latter  was  the  fashionable  service.  "  If 
you  want  to  see  the  latest  modes,  my  dear,"  Frivol  would 
lisp  to  Frivol,  "  Go  to  St.  Peter's  in  the  afternoon." 

The  rector's  right  hand  and  aide-de-camp  in  matters 
ecclesiastical,  was  Mr.  Robert  Rose,  the  organist,  who 
really  did  wonders,  considering  the  rough-hewn  material 
placed  in  his  charge  ;  for  the  extraordinary  idea  per- 
meated the  parish  that  the  finer  the  girl  the  better  singer 

*  He  died  2nd  Sept.,  1874.  There  is  an  elaborate  tomb  to  the  memory 
of  him  and  the  Countess  in  the  churchyard. 


8      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

she  would  make— thus  one  honest  fellow  introduced  his 
buxom  daughter  with  "  I've  brought  you  another  of  my 
gals,  Mr.  Rose,  and  she  is  a  whopper." 

On  entering  the  church  you  reverently  took  your  place 
in  your  pew — and  all  the  pews  were  white  with  mahog- 
any tops — carrying  your  hat  with  you,  or  dropping  it  into 
the  font,  according  to  fancy  ;  and  you  could  depend  on  a 
good  sermon,  though  the  Dissenters — who,  to  do  them 
justice,  prayed  earnestly  for  the  enlightenment  of  in- 
fidels, housebreakers  and  fox-hunting  parsons — insisted 
that  it  was  invariably  composed  by  Mrs.  Burnaby — 
a  rumour  which  the  unruffled  and  chivalrous  rector 
never  troubled  to  refute.  Little  Fred,  however,  stand- 
ing on  a  seat  of  the  great  square  pew  under  the  pulpit, 
was  at  first  more  interested  in  watching  the  verger  with 
his  white  wand  poking  the  heads  of  fidgety  boys,  than  in 
listening  to  his  father's  oratory  ;  though  later,  owing  to  a 
marvellous  memory,  he  obtained  an  even  phenomenal 
knowledge  of  the  Bible. 

At  Christmas  time  he  liked  to  help  when  the  ladies 
were  "  sticking  the  church,"  as  it  was  queerly  called — in 
other  words,  decorating  it — and  beautifully  decorated  it 
was — owing  in  large  measure  to  the  taste  of  the  organist's 
wife  and  daughter.  When  all  was  done  to  satisfaction  the 
brooms,  dust-pans,  hand  brushes  and  dusters,  which  were 
kept  under  the  altar,  were  fetched  out,  and  the  church  re- 
ceived its  great  annual  cleaning.  At  morning  service 
on  the  important  day  how  cheerily  rang  out  from  the 
gallery  the  lusty,  though  metallic  voices  of  the  Sunday 
School  children  ! — the  boys  on  one  side  of  the  organ, 
the  girls  on  the  other — while  the  choir — the  pick  of  the 
town  for  bulk  and  limb — outdid  even  themselves  ; 
a  condition  of  things  which  may,  or  may  not,  be  attribut- 
able to  the  fact  that  it  was  Mr.  Burnaby's  custom  to 
have  the  whole  of  the  school  and  the  choir  to  dinner 
at  the  Rectory.  Dinner  over — and  more  luscious  beef 
or  more  delectable  plum  pudding  never  smoked  on  table — 
the   youngsters  used  to   drift   into  the   adjoining  field 


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EARLY    DAYS    AT    BEDFORD  11 

to  play  football  and  indulge  in  sack  and  other  races 
supposed  to  be  appropriate  to  the  day,  Fred — lissom 
as  a  hare — always  joining  in,  and  establishing  records. 
Not  were  the  aged  forgotten.  Writing  so  recently  as  last 
Christmas,  one  of  the  old  Sunday  scholars  says  :  "  And 
dear  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Burnaby,  I  knew  them  so  well,  and  I 
think  I  see  them  now  at  this  festive  season  trying  their 
utmost,  by  means  of  seasonable  gifts,  to  bring  happiness 
to  the  homes  of  the  poor.  How  daring  Fred  was  ! 
I  remember  how  we  used  to  wander  together  over  the 
vapoury  meadows,  and  how  he  used  to  jump  the  wide 
backwater  at  Newnham,  so  as  to  save  a  long  walk  over 
the  wooden  bridge.  We  other  boys  stood  aghast  at 
his  daring,  but  he  just  managed  to  land  on  the  opposite 
side.  Fred  was  of  so  sanguine  a  temper.  He  never 
knew  what  fear  was."  Another  scholar  recalled  the 
Rector's  outdoor  habit,  when  he  met  young  folks,  of 
extending,  archiepiscopally,  two  straight  fingers,  and 
enquiring  amiably  "  Do,  do  ?  " 

At  first  Mr.  Burnaby  thought  of  making  a  clergyman 
of  his  son,  and  Fred  was  quite  agreeable  until  one  day — 
31st  July,  1851— when  he  stood  in  St.  Peter's  church- 
yard while  his  father,  who  showed  himself  deeply  sym- 
pathetic during  the  service,  was  burying  John  Francis, 
the  parish  clerk.  After  the  words  "  In  the  midst  of  life 
we  are  in  death,"  little  Fred,  touched  to  the  quick  by  his 
father's  emotion  and  the  sobs  of  the  mourners,  pulled  his 
father's  surplice,  and  said,  with  tears  trickling  down  his 
cheeks,  "  Papa,  I  won't  be  a  parson." 

To  the  north  of  the  Rectory,  and  on  the  grounds, 
stood  a  ruined  farmhouse  where  he  and  his  companions 
used  to  play.  Hard  by  was  a  pond  into  which  in  summer 
time  they  frequently  tumbled,  "  coming  out  green  all 
over  "  ;  and  which  in  winter  proved  an  ideal  place  for 
slides.  After  a  heavy  fall  of  snow  the  boys  would  roll 
from  the  field  a  huge  snowball  which,  by  the  time  it 
reached  High  Street,  would  be  as  much  as  seven  feet  in 
diameter.     Fred   early   took   to   dumb-bells,    practising 


12      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

not  only  in  the  fields  but  in  his  father's  drawing-room  ; 
and  on  one  occasion  he  went  too  near  the  marble  mantel- 
piece and  smashed  it  to  atoms. 

Not  far  from  the  Rectory  stood,  as  we  stated,  the 
residence  of  Mr.  Livius,  and  both  house  and  grounds  had 
the  reputation  of  being  haunted,  owing  partly  to  the 
stories  that  circulated  respecting  Mr.  Livius  and  his  friend 
the  Rev.  N.  S.  Godfrey,*  who  were  spiritualists,  and 
partly  owing  to  Mr.  Livius's  habit  of  hanging  among  the 
trees  a  number  of  Eolian  harps,  which  made  weird  sounds 
"  as  of  spirits  in  pain,"  all  the  night  long  ;  and  to  Bed- 
ford children — though  not  to  little  Fred,  who,  fearing 
neither  man  nor  spectre,  used  in  bravado  to  pass  at  night 
by  the  dreaded  wall  alone, — the  grounds  were  a  perpetual 
terror.  Mr.  Burnaby's  children  were  in  charge  of  Mrs. 
Page,  the  housekeeper,  a  faithful  and  devoted  creature, 
who,  however,  required  all  her  wits  to  keep  them  within 
bounds.  She  used  to  say  of  Fred  in  particular  that  he 
had  a  most  "  contradictorious  spirit,"  and  more  than 
once  she  had  to  chase  him  in  his  night  shirt  across  St. 
Peter's  Green  amid  an  amused  throng  of  onlookers  ; 
while  he  was  aided  and  abetted  in  his  devilry  by  his 
father's  great  dog  Berry  who,  when  the  Rectory  gates 
were  opened  for  the  carriage,  used  to  come  out  with  a 
bound  and  startle  everybody  near.  One  or  another 
of  the  children  was  in  trouble  most  days,  but  perhaps 
the  gravest  instance  was  when  Annie  swallowed  some 
berries  of  the  deadly  nightshade  and  was  carried  in, 
as  it  was  supposed,  dying.  She  recovered,  however, 
to  turn  her  attention  to  much  additional  naughtiness. 

It  is  not  surprising  that,  Mrs.  Page,  overwrought 
by  the  lawlessness  of  her  charges,  sometimes  lost  her  head. 
The  worst,  however,  she  at  any  time  did  in  her  flurry, 

*  Mr.  Godfrey  who  was  Rector  of  Biddenham  was  suspended  for  three 
years  owing  to  his  spiritualistic  practices.  He  wrote  Table  Moving  Tested 
and  proved  to  be  the  Result  of  Satanic  Agency  (1853)  which  was  replied  to  by 
John  Pritchard  in  a  pamphlet  entitled  A  Few  Sober  Words  of  Table  Talk 
about  Tabic  Spirits  and  the  Rev.  N.  S.  Godfrey's  Incantations.  Mr.  Godfrey 
subsequently  became  Vicar  of  St.  Bartholomew's,  Southsea. 


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EARLY    DAYS    AT    BEDFORD  15 

was  to  give  Evelyn  a  dose  of  embrocation  instead  of  his 
usual  medicine  ;  but  she  was  more  than  once  heard  to 
wish  wickedly  that  she  was  in  heaven. 

At  the  age  of  nine,  Fred  was  sent  to  Bedford  Grammar 
School — the  old  building  situated  in  St.  Paul's  Square, 
with  figure  of  Sir  William  Harpur  in  niche  over  the 
portal.  The  Headmaster  at  the  time  was  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Brereton.  Naturally  Fred  had  a  fight  there,  his  oppo- 
nent being  a  bigger  boy  ;  and,  just  as  naturally,  when  he 
came  off  conqueror,  his  father  rewarded  him  with  a 
shilling.  Another  amusement  was  throwing  up  farth- 
ings and  shooting  at  them.  With  his  companions 
Charlie  (now  Colonel)  Roberts,  Vitruvius  Wyatt  (now 
Vicar  of  St.  Leonard's,  Bedford),  Lizzie  Hornsby,  Emma 
Rose  and  Alexander  De  Vismes,  son  of  the  Count, 
he  used  to  go  boating  and  picnicing,  sometimes  to 
Cardington,  and  sometimes  in  the  opposite  direction, 
their  favourite  resorts  being  "  Paradise "  (Cauldwell 
House),*  the  residence  of  Mr.  John  Howard,  and  Honey 
Hill ;  and  as  they  rowed  they  would  sing  nigger  and 
other  songs — timing  themselves  to  the  dipping  of  the 
oars.  In  after  years,  too,  Fred  recalled  the  comical 
scenes  at  the  Wool  Fair  on  St.  Peter's  Green  and  the 
dissipations  of  Bedford  Fair,|  the  stalls  of  which  extended 
from  the  Green  to  St.  Paul's  Church  ;  and  how  he  used 
to  lay  out  his  pence  in  a  thin  ginger-bread  called  parlia- 
ment, and  baked  warden  pears  sold  by  one  Wiffin,  a  man 
with  a  stentorian  voice. 

The  family  often  paid  visits  to  Somerby,  $  and  stayed 
at  the  Hall  which  had  become  the  residence  of  Mr. 

*  Now  the  residence  of  Mr.  Henry  Burridge. 

t  October  12th. 

J  Somerby  and  Burrough  boast  of  two  distinguished  personages  who 
were  connected  with  both  villages,  namely  William  Cheselden,  surgeon  and 
anatomist  (1688— 1752), born  at  Burrough,  and  Sir.  Benjamin  Ward  Richard- 
son, born  at  Somerby.  Dr.  Cheselden's  sister  Deborah  married  Rev. 
Gustavus  Brown,  Rector  of  Burrough,  and  so  became  an  ancestress  of  Fred 
Burnaby.  Cheselden  was  a  friend  of  Pope  who  commemorates  him  in  his 
Imitations  of  Horace.  There  may  still  be  seen  in  the  grounds  of  Somerby 
Hall  a  beautiful  leaden  watertank,  brought  from  Burrough,  with  the  initials 
G.  and  D.B.  (Gustavus  and  Deborah  Brown)  and  the  date  1724. 

c  2 


16      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

Burnaby's  mother.  Somerby,  a  compact, 
*~~  bl^ddi'"  bright  and  pleasant  village,  is  situated 
Aged  Man.  some  thirteen  miles  from  Leicester,  four 
from  Oakham  and  six  from  Melton 
Mowbray — the  nearest  station  being  John  o'Gaunt,* 
three  miles  distant.  Somerby  Hall  is  a  spacious 
stuccoed  building  with  a  front  facing  the  garden. 
The  lawn,  which  had  a  rosery  surmounted  by  a  great  glass 
ball,  commands  views  of  three  churches — those  of 
Somerby,  Pickwell  and  Cold  Overton  ;  and  on  its  border 
stands  an  enormous  beech  with  four  stems,  which  Mrs. 
Burnaby  used  to  point  to  and  say  :  "  My  four  children  " 
(May,  Annie,  Fred  and  Evelyn).  At  some  distance  stand 
two  limes,  the  lower  branches  of  which,  as  they  hid  the 
view,  Mrs.  Burnaby  wished  cut  away.  For  long  the 
Rev.  Gustavus  refused  consent,  but  at  last  he  humoured 
her,  and  the  trees  have  ever  since  been  known  as 
"  Discord  "  and  "  Concord." 

Fred  revelled  in  field  sports,  especially  hunting  ;  and 
some  doggerel  lines  entitled  The  County  Hunt,  composed 
by  him  when  he  and  his  father  were  staying  at  Somerby, 
have  been  preserved.  They  commence  with  the  vow 
made  by  the  huntsman  of  the  Quorn,  after  a  day's  ill 
luck,  that  "  the  morrow  success  should  bring."  When 
the  morrow  arrived,  he  set  off  with  "  five  couple  of 
hounds  at  his  side,"  and  reached  Little  Dalby  village  in 
company  with  "  Gilmore  Lloyd  and  Sir  Henry  Edwards." 
The  horn  rings  merrily,  the  hounds  are  in  full  career — 
and  the  excited  question  goes  the  round  :  "  Is  it  a  hare 
or  a  fox  ?  '  It  turns  out  to  be  neither,  but  only  a  man 
carrying  aniseed,  who  straightway  rushed  from  the 
canine  kind.     While  this  was  taking  place — 

A  middle-aged  man  in  a  lordly  field 

Stood  giving  directions  to  all — 

A  respectable  middle-aged  man  was  he 

Owner  of  Somerby  Hall. 

Shortly  a  man  rushed  into  the  field, 

Rushing  o'er  dale  and  lea. 

The  gentlemen  cried  "  stop,  you're  spoiling  my  hedge." 

"  I  can't,  or  they'll  run  into  me  !  " 

*  Name  given  at  the  suggestion  of  General  Burnaby  (Fred's  cousin)  after 
John  of  Gaunt,  the  great  earl  of  Lancaster  and  Leicester. 


SOMERBY    CHURCH. 


From  a  photo  by  Messrs.  John  Burton  &  Sons,  Leicester. 


EARLY    DAYS    AT    BEDFORD  19 

The  middle-aged  man,  giving  directions  to  all,  was,  it 
need  hardly  be  said,  Burnaby's  father  ;  and  to  be  "  giving 
directions  to  all  "  was  characteristic  enough  of  the  auto- 
cratic gentleman.     The  verses  continue — 

The  man  was  caught,  and  then  for  sport 

A  lady  in  a  habit 
Said  to  the  master  of  the  hunt 

"  Let's  run  a  little  rabbit." 

The  suggestion  was  followed,  and  so  ends  what  was 
probably  Master  Burnaby's  first  attempt  at  verse ; 
though  it  was  not  his  last,  for  he  often  amused  himself 
with  writing  doggerel.  No  doubt  this  effusion  was  read 
with  applause  at  the  Hall ;  and  we  may  be  equally  sure 
the  allusion  to  the  middle-aged  man  giving  directions  to 
all,  was  duly  appreciated  by  the  middle-aged  man  him- 
self, and  handsomely  acknowledged. 

Fred  obtained  some  assistance  in  his  education  from 
the  Rev.  William  Young  Nutt,*  a  hard-working  clergy- 
man, who  was  for  thirty-five  years  curate  of  Burrough, 
and  subsequently  rector  of  Cold  Overton.  As  it  was  Mr. 
Nutt's  custom  to  make  his  pupils  read  the  lessons  in 
church,  while  he  stood  by  ready  to  give  a  nip  in  case  of  a 
blunder,  they  all  became  approved  elocutionists  ;  and 
perhaps  Fred  owed  some  of  the  impression  which  he 
many  years  afterwards  made  as  a  speaker  on  the  people 
of  Birmingham,  to  the  good  gentleman's  very  vigilant 
finger  and  thumb. 

Burnaby  left  Bedford  Grammar  School  in  May,  1852, 
and  proceeded  to  a  private  school  at  Tinwell,  near  Stam- 
ford, kept   by  the   Rev.   Charles   Arnold, 
son  of  the  Rev.  Thomas  Kerchever  Arnold,  1852)  and 

of  Hennfs  Latin  Book  fame;  and  there  his  Hai855)(Jan* 
principal  companions  were  Denzil  Baring, 
the  late  Lord  Rowton,  Edward  Carr  Glyn,  now  Bishop  of 
Peterborough,  Lord  Sunderland  (afterwards  in  turn  Lord 
Blandford  and  Duke  of  Marlborough),  and  H.  N.  Finch. 
His  favourite  sport  at  Tinwell  was  performing  on  the 

*  One  of  his  sons,  Henry,  resides  at  Flitwick  (Beds.),  another,  the  Rev. 
R.  Nutt,  at  Ryde,  a  third  Alfred,  is  architect  to  the  King,  at  Windsor. 


20      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

cross-bar  of  a  gymnastic  apparatus  fixed  some  twenty 
feet  from  the  ground.  On  being  informed  that  it  would 
not  be  safe  to  drop  from  it,  he  promptly  resolved  to  make 
the  trial  ;  and  with  the  words  "  Get  away  boys,  I'm 
coming,"  he  jumped  to  the  ground,  with  the  result  of  a 
broken  leg,  which  confined  him  to  his  bed  for  three 
months,  though  he  never  once  shed  a  tear  or  made  the 
least  complaint. 

In  the  following  year  there  were  wedding  festivities 
at  the  old  Bedford  home — the  occasion  being  the  union  of 
Burnaby's  elder  sister  with  Mr.  John  Henry  Manners- 
Sutton,  of  Kelham,  Notts.  Owing  to  the  father's  posi- 
tion, and  the  fact  that  the  bride  was  the  loveliest  woman 
of  her  time — though  beauty  was  almost  her  least  charm — 
all  Bedford  and  the  country  round  flocked  to  the  wedding, 
at  which  four  dukes  were  present.* 

In  January  1855,  Burnaby — then  a  tall  thin  boy, 
with  a  foreign-looking  pallid  face — passed  to  Harrow, 
and  he  was  placed,  along  with  his  friend  Finch  in  "Middle- 
mist's  House,"  afterwards  known  as  "  Crookshank's." 
In  Greek  and  Latin  he  never  distinguished  himself, 
indeed,  for  the  study  of  these  languages  he  always 
showed  contempt ;  and  in  one  of  his  speeches,  when  he 
became  a  politician,  he  alleged  that  our  public  schools 
are  kept  up  far  more  in  the  interests  of  the  masters 
than  of  the  boys — so  much  time  being  devoted  to  Greek 
and  Latin,  not  because  of  the  utility  of  these  languages, 
but  because  the  masters  themselves  happen  to  be  ac- 
quainted with  them. I  At  French,  however,  he  soon 
became  proficient.  Among  the  letters  he  wrote  from 
Harrow  was  the  following  : 
My  dear  Papa, 

I  hope  you  are  quite  well.  You  will  be  very  glad  to 
hear  I  have  got  my  remove,  and  got  it  quite  easily,  as 
seven  fellows  below  me  got  it.     Give  my  love  to  dear 

*  Burnaby's  other  sister,  Annie,  became,  in  1862,  wife  of  Mr.  Duncan 
Baillie. 

f  Speech  at  Wednesbury,  17th  October,  1883. 


EARLY    DAYS    AT    BEDFORD  21 

mamma.  I  think  my  eyes  are  better.  Finch  gave  me 
a  dinner  yesterday  at  Fuller's.  At  least  it  was  a  kind  of 
early  tea  on  a  pheasant  and  some  other  things.  There 
were  three  of  us  there,  and  between  us  we  finished  him 
well.  He  was  rather  a  large  pheasant.  Give  my  love  to 
May  and  Annie.  And  now  with  best  love,  I  remain, 
Your  ever  affectionate  son, 

Frederick  G.  Burnaby. 

There  was  at  Harrow  in  those  days  a  system  of  bully- 
ing, of  which  Burnaby,  with  his  manly  notions,  founded 
chiefly  on  the  commandment  "  Thou  shalt  not  hit  a  boy 
under  your  own  size,"  strongly  disapproved.  On  18th 
March,  1854,  that  is  nine  months  before  he  entered  the 
school,  there  had  appeared  in  Punch  an  article  apparently 
from  the  pen  of  Douglas  Jerrold,  entitled  "  Bullying  at 
Public  Schools,"  which  mentions  both  Harrow  and  Rugby 
as  schools  where  bullying  of  a  particularly  offensive 
kind  had  taken  place  ;  and  after  a  stern  denunciation 
of  the  practice,  it  concludes  with  :  "  We  only  wish  the 
parent  of  some  child  who  may  have  been  brutally 
ill-used  by  a  bigger  and  stronger  boy  would  try  the  effect 
of  the  Act  for  the  Punishment  of  Aggravated  Assaults, 
for  there  is,  at  all  events,  some  power  in  the  law,  if  there 
is  no  redress  to  be  had  at  the  hands  of  the  masters." 

Burnaby  may  have  read  or  heard  of  this  article  ; 
but  in  any  case  he  sent  to  Punch  a  communication 
entitled  "  The  Toad  under  the  Harrow,"  in  which  he 
complained  particularly  of  the  Harrow  system  of  fagging. 
Although  the  communication  was  ignored  by  the  editor, 
the  course  which  Burnaby  had  taken  reached,  somehow, 
the  ears  of  the  headmaster,  who  sent  for  the  boy  and 
reprimanded  him.  However,  the  incident  must  have 
had  a  healthy  effect,  for  Mr.  Walter  Pepys,*  recalling 
the  period  of  Burnaby's  latter  days  at  Harrow,  has 
been  able  to  write  to  me  :  "  The  school  life  was  decidedly 
rough,  or  would  at  least  now  be  considered  so,  but 
there  was  a  fine  manly  spirit  with  it,  and  in  most  houses 

*He  was  in  Burnaby's  house. 


22      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

the  quiet  and  weak  were  not  molested.  Many  of  the 
boys  of  that  period  rose  to  distinction,  as,  for  example, 
J.  A.  Symonds,  G.  O.  Trevelyan,  Montagu  Corry,  F.  H. 
Jeune,  H.  Chaplin,  W.  S.  Church,  Kenelm  Digby,  Edward 
Stanhope,  A.  M.  Chaunell,  and  H.  T.  Thompson." 

Another  incident  of  Burnaby's  Harrow  life  was  a  battle 
royal  between  him  and  a  lad  two  years  his  senior,  Henry 
Edwards*  ;  and  although  one  of  the  masters  tried  to 
stop  the  fight,  his  efforts,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  scene 
was  the  duly  prescribed  "  Milling  Ground,"!  were  abor- 
tive, and  it  was  fought  to  a  finish.  Then,  too,  while  at 
Harrow,  Burnaby  showed  his  adventurous  spirit  by  taking 
ud  a  boat — a  one  pair  skiff — from  Windsor  to  Oxford, 
and  thence  by  the  canal  to  Severn  and  Shrewsbury 
and  back  again — a  distance  of  six  hundred  miles  ; 
thus  performing  a  journey  which,  seeing  that  it  occupied 
over  three  weeks,  was,  for  a  boy  of  thirteen,  a  really 
remarkable  feat. 

By  this  time  it  was  decided  that  Burnaby  should  enter 

the  army,  and  in  1857  he  was  removed  from  Harrow 

and  sent  to  Oswestry,   where  he  studied 

6— The  Goose,     under  the  Rev.  Stephen  Donne, J  brother 

1857.  of  the   Rev.   James   Donne,   Vicar  of  St. 

Paul's,    Bedford.     Here    he    displayed    a 

prodigious  appetite.     On  one  occasion  when  on  a  walking 

tour  in  Wales  he  entered  an  inn,  with  only  half-a-crown 

in  his  pocket,  and  enquired  what  he  could  have  for  dinner 

and  the  charge. 

The  landlord  replied  :  "  Goose  and  apple-tart,  half-a- 
crown." 

The  goose,  a  respectable  one,  with  the  usual  savoury 
etceteras,  and  the  apple-tart,  made  by  no  niggard  hand, 
were  brought  forward  ;  but  when  the  landlord  looked  in 
half  an  hour  later  he  found  that  Burnaby  had  eaten 
the  whole  of  the  goose  and  the  apple  tart  as  well. 

♦Afterwards  Sir  H.  C.  Edwards. 

I  Just  under  the  old  school. 

J  Archdeacon  Donne,  Vicar  of  Wakefield,  is  his  son. 


THE    OLD    GRAMMAR    SCHOOL,    BEDFORD. 
Lent  by  Mr.  Hubert  Page,  Bedford. 


SOMERBY    CHURCH     (INTERIOR). 
Showing  East  Window  (to  the  Memory  of  Burnaby's  parents) 

Photo  by  Rev.  G.  E.  Britten. 


EARLY    DAYS    AT    BEDFORD  25 

For  a  moment  he  stood  stock-still,  in  a  stupor. 

When,  however,  Burnaby  coolly  tendered  the  half- 
crown  and  complimented  him  on  his  cookery,  he  mechan- 
ically put  out  his  hand  for  the  well-merited  coin  ;  and  re- 
marked :  "  Next  time  you  come  into  these  parts,  please 
give  my  friend  Jones,  of  the  Red  Lion,  a  turn." 

On  October  12th,  1857,  he  wrote  to  his  father  : 

Oswestry. 
My  dear  Father, 

Many  thanks  for  the  post  office  order,  which  I  received 
on  Saturday.  I  expect  I  shall  be  able  to  go  up  in  Decem- 
ber, for  the  other  day  I  met  a  captain  in  the  army  at 
dinner,  and  he  said  they  want  officers  so  bad  now  that 
they  wink  at  the  age,  and  that  a  cousin  of  his  got  in  a 
little  while  ago  at  16.  I  had  a  letter  from  Colonel  Yorke 
the  other  day,  saying  he  would  let  me  know  when 
the  next  examination  is  to  be.  He  is  the  Secretary  to 
the  Council  of  Education.  Give  my  love  to  dear  Mother 
and  Annie,  and  hoping  that  Evelyn  is  not  quite  annihilated 
at  the  idea  of  going  to  school.  Believe  me,  your  very 
affectionate  son, 

F.  Burnaby. 

From  Oswestry  he  was  sent  to  Dresden,   in  order  to 

study    languages    under    Professor    Hughes ;    and    the 

following  letter,  which  is  undated,  appears 

to  have  been  written  soon  after  his  arrival  7  ~  Dresden. 

He  joins 
there.  the  Blues. 

4,    Marian    Strasse,    Dresden. 

My  dear  Governor, 

Many  thanks  for  your  kind  letter,  which  I  received 

quite  safe.     I  called  on  Paget  to-day.     He  was  very  kind, 

but  said  that  he  had  received  no  letter  from  my  uncle, 

so  I  suppose  it  was  lost.     I  have,  however,  written  to  my 

uncle  to  ask  him  for  another.     I  like  Dresden  very  much. 

The  old  professor  is  a  capital  fellow.     I  am  getting  on 

very  well  with  the  cornet,  and  German  is  becoming  easier 

every  day.     Write  and  tell  me  how  much  Benham  makes. 


26      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

It  is  awfully  hot,  but  we  live  almost  the  whole  day 
in  the  Elbe,  so  it  is  very  comfortable.  They  have 
got  capital  bathing  places  here — large  rafts  with  houses 
on  them  and  capital  places  to  spring  from  so  and  so  feet 
from  the  water.  The  scenery  is  lovely.  Give  my  best 
love  to  Mamma  and  Annie,*  and  with  best  love  to  all 
friends, 

Believe  me  ever  your  very  affectionate  son, 

F.    BURNABY. 

In  Germany  he  became  proficient  in  French,  German 
and  Italian  ;  and  on  his  return  to  England,  as  he  was 
still  minded  to  become  a  soldier,  he  sat  for  his  examina- 
tion, which  he  passed  with  great  credit,  and  some  months 
later  (30th  September,  1859)  he  was  gazetted  cornet  in  the 
Royal  Horse  Guards  (Blues). 

In  the  meantime  there  had  been  revolutionary  changes 
at  St.  Peter's,  the  Rev.  Gustavus  having  engaged  a  zeal- 
ous and  musical  curate,  the  Rev.  John  Boyle,  who  tho- 
roughly stirred  up  the  parish.  Among  Mr.  Boyle's 
various  innovations  was  the  introduction  of  a  choral 
service,  a  change  which  was  regarded  with  profound 
suspicion  ;  and  which  saddled  its  author  with  the  charge 
of  being  a  Jesuit  in  disguise ;  but  whether  his  irreverent 
hand  interfered  with  other  sacred  and  hoary  institutions, 
such  as  keeping  the  hand  brushes  and  dustpans  under  the 
altar,  we  are  not  informed.     He  was  certainly  equal  to  it. 

One  Sunday  morning  in  church,  when  Mr.  Rose  was 
playing  the  hymn  tune  before  the  singing,  there  came 
out  in  the  midst  of  it  some  full  clear  notes  of  remarkable 
power,  and  such  as  the  organ  had  never  before  given  forth. 
There  was  a  marked  sensation  in  the  church,  and  the 
sensation  became  even  more  acute  when,  as  the  hymn 
was  being  sung,  the  same  notes  were  repeated  in  every 
verse.  The  pretended  new  stop,  however,  presently 
walked  out  of  the  organ,  and  stood  revealed  as  Fred 
Burnaby  who,  home  on  leave,  had  entered  the  tuning 
place  with  his  cornet  just  before  the  hymn  was  given  out ; 

*  His  sister,  Ann  Glentworth  (afterwards  Mrs.  Duncan  Baillie), 


EARLY    DAYS    AT    BEDFORD  27 

and  the  effect  was  so  fine — Fred  being  a  first-rate  player — 
that  he  was  begged  to  repeat  the  performance  the  follow- 
ing Sunday  ;  and  for  years  afterwards,  on  special  occa- 
sions, the  cornet  accompanied  the  organ. 

Of  Fred's  stoicism  under  suffering  we  have  furnished 
an  example,  and  we  may  give  another.  Once  when  on  a 
visit  of  leave  to  Bedford,  he  was  practising  with  a  pistol 
when  it  exploded  in  his  hand.  Instead,  however,  of 
making  any  remark,  he  coolly  walked  down  the  High 
Street  to  Dr.  Hurst's,*  had  the  wound  stitched  up,  and 
returned  to  the  Rectory  to  lunch,  without  making  any 
reference  whatever  to  the  matter.  He  was  a  student, 
however,  as  well  as  a  youth  of  action,  but  if  he  turned 
to  his  father's  bookshelves  it  was  invariably  to  take 
down  some  volume  of  history  or  biography,  and  the 
picturesque  and  stirring  pages  of  Plutarch  and  Gibbon, 
not  only  thrilled  him  to  the  very  centre,  but  provoked  in 
him  an  ardent  longing  to  emulate  the  courageous  deeds 
of  the  various  heroes. 

Owing  to  the  fact,  already  mentioned,  that  several 
of  the  judges  when  on  circuit  used  to  be  entertained 
at  St.  Peter's  Rectory,  the  Rev.  Gustavus  often  attended 
the  Quarter  Sessions,  not  infrequently  taking  with  him 
his  younger  son,  Evelyn,  who  evinced  a  keen  pleasure 
both  in  listening  to  the  trials  and  in  reading  the  news- 
paper reports  afterwards.  One  day  Evelyn  did  some- 
thing that  caused  his  father  unusual  pleasure,  and  the 
old  gentleman  said  to  him,  "  My  boy,  name  something 
that  you  would  like.  No  matter  what  it  is,  I  will  give  it 
you  if  possible." 

"  Father,"  said  Evelyn,  "  buy  me  a  Newgate  calen- 
dar." 

As  a  curious  instance  of  the  permanence  of  character, 
it  may  be  mentioned  that  only  last  year  the  Rev.  Evelyn 
Burnaby  published  a  work  entitled,  Memories  of  Famous 
Trials.     After  being  educated  at  Eton,  where  he  was  a 

♦Brother  of  the  late  Mr.  George  Hurst.  Dr.  Hurst's  house  occupied 
what  is  now  the  High  Street  entrance  to  the  Arcade. 

D 


28      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

contemporary  of  Mr.  A.  J.  Balfour,  Lord  Randolph 
Churchill,  Lord  Rosebery,  and  Ernest  Vivian,  now  Lord 
Swansea,  his  life-long  friend,  Evelyn  proceeded  to  Oxford, 
where  he  graduated  with  honours. 


CHAPTER    II. 

30TH  SEPTEMBER  1859 — 31ST  DECEMBER  1867. 

Ballooning. 

As  Burnaby's  early  years  in  the  army  did  not  syn- 
chronize with  a  piping  time  of  war,  they  were  unmarked 
by  any  stirring  event.     He  devoted  him- 
~~  from  "re-     self  sedulously  to  his  duties  and  studies, 

mome,  21st    an(j  to  developing  by  means  of  dumb-bell 
U  y        '     and     other     exercises,     his     phenomenal 
strength.    Among  his  hobbies  was  fishing,  and  he  became, 
as  the  result  of  persistent  practice  on  the  lawn  at  Bed- 
ford, an  adept  at  casting  the  net. 

In  the  summer  of  1864  he  turned  his  mind  to  aero- 
nautics, and  henceforward  that  science  was  one  of  his 
leading  enthusiasms. 

Public  attention  had  recently  been  drawn  anew  to  the 
balloon,  owing  largely  to  the  achievements  of  Mr.  Henry 
Coxwell  and  Mr.  James  Glaisher,  who  on  5th  September, 
1862,  ascended  to  a  distance  of  seven  miles,  the  highest 
on  record  ;  and  the  incidents  of  their  courageous  voyage, 
which,  by  reason  of  the  severity  of  the  cold,  almost  cost 
them  their  lives,  were  still  fresh  in  the  public  mind. 
These  gentlemen  also  distinguished  themselves  in  the 
spring  of  1863  ;  while  on  October  4th  of  the  same  year 
a  voyage  was  made  by  a  French  aeronaut,  M.  Nadar, 
and  twelve  other  persons  in  a  balloon  containing  the 
enormous  volume  of  215,000  feet  of  gas,  and  supporting 
in  place  of  the  ordinary  car  a  two-storeyed  wicker-work 
cottage.  Enormous,  however,  as  was  Mr.  Nadar's 
balloon,  it  was  to  be  dwarfed  by  a  truly  gargantuan 
aerostat  constructed  by  another  Frenchman,  M.  Jean 

(29) 


30      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

Godard,  who  had  made  ascents  in  the  interests  of  his 
country  during  the  Italian  campaign  of  1859.  M. 
Godard' s  balloon — The  Eagle — had  a  cubic  capacity  of 
500,000  feet,  being  doubtless  the  largest  pear-shaped 
aerostat  ever  constructed.  M.  Godard  announced  that 
his  balloon  would  make  an  ascent  at  Cremorne  Gardens, 
Chelsea,  then  one  of  the  most  popular  of  London's 
pleasure  resorts  ;  and  the  information  that  it  was  to  be 
inflated,  not  with  coal  gas,  but  with  hot  air,  after  the 
fashion  of  the  very  early  balloons  made  by  the  brothers 
Montgolfier,  excited  enormous  interest ;  though,  as 
such  an  ascent  would  necessarily  be  accompanied  by 
extreme  danger,  fear  was  entertained  lest  Government 
might  interfere.  M.  Godard  was  confident  enough, 
but  the  general  public  had  made  up  their  minds  that  the 
balloon  would  catch  fire  and  explode  in  the  air. 

The  day  before  the  date  fixed  for  the  ascent  Burnaby 
and  some  of  his  brother  subalterns  paid  a  visit  to  the 
gardens,  where  they  found  Mr.  E.  T.  Smith,  the  manager, 
the  keen,  bright-eyed  M.  Godard,  and  a  captain  of  the 
Blues  engaged  in  earnest  conversation  ;  and  it  trans- 
pired  that  they  had  been  discussing  the  probability 
of  government  intervention. 

"  This    is    Godard,    Fred,"    whispered    the    captain, 
"  the  man  who  is  going  up  in  the  fire  balloon  to-morrow." 
"  Very  good  fun,  I  should  think,"  followed  Burnaby, 
who  at  that  time  knew  practically  nothing  about  balloon- 
ing. 

"  Fun,  indeed,"  said  the  captain,  "  fun  with  the  chance 
of  being  burnt  as  well  as  smashed.  You  would  not  think 
it  fun  if  you  went  up  with  him." 

This  speech  ruffled  Burnaby,  and  without  taking  time 
to  reflect,  he  said,  "  I  should  be  delighted  to  ascend  if 
Monsieur  Godard  would  take  me." 

This  being  mentioned  to   the   aeronaut  he   at   once 
acquiesced,  though  he  subsequently  observed  pathetic- 
ally to  a  friend  that  Burnaby  was  "  a  devil  of  a  weight." 
Burnaby  on  his  part  agreed  to  pay  the  customary  fee, 


BALLOONING  81 

and  to  help  during  the  voyage  with  the  stoking.  The 
following  afternoon  he  again  found  his  way  to  the  gardens 
which  were  crowded  with  visitors.  The  weather  was 
perfect,  Godard  and  his  assistants  hurried  hither  and 
thither  making  preliminary  arrangements,  and  Mr.  J.  W. 
Prowse,  of  the  Daily  Telegraph,  who  was  to  be  one  of  the 
voyagers,  and  Mr.  Coxwell  and  Mr.  Glaisher  were  stroll- 
ing round  the  enclosure.  The  top  of  the  uninflated 
balloon,  which  was  of  calico,  was  suspended  forty  feet 
from  the  grass  by  a  rope  which  extended  between  two 
masts,  each  a  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  the  rest  of  the 
monster  lay  upon  the  ground,  except  where  a  gangway 
made  of  hoops  led  from  the  outside  to  the  enormous 
wooden  car  at  its  centre.  In  the  car  was  a  mysterious 
iron  furnace,  from  which  shot  up  into  the  balloon  an  enor- 
mous funnel,  while  there  were  bewildering  air  holes, 
and  a  whole  host  of  other  perplexing  accessories  ;  and 
Burnaby  noticed  that  the  car  was  attached  to  the  balloon 
by  cords  stitched  to  the  sides — there  being  no  net. 
While  Godard  and  his  assistants  were  carrying  trusses  of 
straw  through  the  gangway  and  ramming  them  into  the 
furnace,  a  hundred  men  stood  round  the  balloon,  each 
holding  to  a  piece  of  the  covering  ;  and  Burnaby's 
friends  spent  the  waiting  moments  chatting  with  Cox- 
well and  Glaisher,  both  of  whom  regarded  the  absence 
of  netting  as  a  serious  defect.  Presentlv  Godard  set 
light  to  the  straw  in  the  furnace.  The  fire  roared  up 
through  the  funnel,  and  in  a  few  minutes  the  gigantic 
envelope  began  to  distend.  As  it  rose  the  rope  keeping 
its  top  from  the  flames  was  gradually  tightened.  In 
half  an  hour  it  was  ready  to  start,  but  the  prospect  of  a 
ride  in  so  uncanny  a  conveyance  was  far  less  agreeable 
than  it  had  previously  appeared.  The  flames  from  the 
straw  roared  at  least  twenty  feet  into  the  balloon  through 
the  funnel.  Sparks  flew  about  in  all  directions,  alighting 
even  on  the  calico  and  on  the  trusses  of  straw  which 
were  attached  to  the  sides  of  the  car.  It  was  an  awe- 
striking  spectacle,  and  one  which  in  regard  to  the  car 


32      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

and  its  occupants  would  not  have  been  out  of  place  in 
Dante's  Hell.  While  Burnaby  was  cursing  under  his 
breath  the  folly  that  had  induced  him  to  volunteer 
Godard  approached  and  said  "  I  am  very  sorry,  but  I 
can't  take  you."  Burnaby  felt  as  though  a  load  had  been 
suddenly  lifted  from  his  brain.  "  Thank  heavens  !  ' 
he  said  to  himself,  and  then  addressing  his  friends  he 
drawled, ' '  Very  sorry — great  nuisance  !  but  Godard  says 
he  can't  take  me,  as  I'm  too  heavy." 

"Too  heavy!  nonsense,"  said  the  captain,  'and 
after  all  my  friends  have  come  here  to  see  you  go  up. 
You  must  keep  your  word,  or  they  will  say  you  funk." 

And  the  insinuation  was  a  correct  one,  though  unpalat- 
able enough  to  Burnaby. 

In  the  meantime  Mr.  Prowse  and  a  friend  of  Godard's, 
M.  Gustave  Faucheux,  had  taken  their  places  by  the  side 
of  the  aeronaut  and  his  assistants.  The  balloon,  now 
fully  inflated,  presented  an  imposing  and  beautiful 
appearance,  ornamented  as  it  was  with  a  great  blue 
border,  tri-colour  pennons  and  representations  of  the 
French  eagle  ;  and  encircled  at  about  a  third  of  its  height 
by  a  bat-like  and  eldritch  arrangement  which  looked  like 
an  enormous  parachute. 

Godard  was  now  in  the  act  of  ordering  the  men  to  let 
go  the  cords,  and  the  balloon  began  to  rise.  At  that 
moment,  fired  by  a  sudden  resolution,  Burnaby,  unseen 
by  Godard,  who  was  on  the  other  side  of  the  furnace, 
vaulted  into  the  car  ;  whereupon  the  balloon,  which  had 
been  rising  splendidly,  descended  with  a  bump.  The 
additional  sixteen  stone  had  been  too  much  for  it. 
Godard,  who  could  not  understand  what  was  the  matter, 
seized  fresh  trusses  of  straw,  and  pushing  them  into  the 
furnace,  filled  it  to  its  summit.  The  flames  roared 
louder  than  ever,  sparks  flew  in  showers,  and  up  went, 
amid  cheer  after  cheer  from  the  spectators,  this  terrible 
roaring  fiery  furnace — an  object  of  such  weight  that 
"  had  it  fallen  it  would  have  more  than  sufficed  to  smash 
in  the  dome  of  St.  Paul's,  if  not  to  bring  great  part  of  the 


BALLOONING  33 

entire  edifice  to  the  ground."*  It  took  an  easterly, 
and  then  a  south-easterly  course.  Every  part  of  the 
huge  city  came  in  turn  within  ken  of  the  occupants  of  the 
car,  and  the  panorama,  if  not  worth  the  risk  of  the  jour- 
ney, was,  in  Mr.  Prowse's  words,  "  a  very  magnificent 
spectacle."  The  sounds  from  the  streets,  which  re- 
sembled the  clamour  of  a  sea,  mingled  during  the  whole 
of  the  journey  with  the  noise  of  the  furnace  ;  for  at  no 
time  did  the  balloon  ascend  much  above  half  a  mile. 
The  heat  from  the  flames  was  painful  to  all,  though  Burn- 
aby,  owing  to  his  great  bulk  and  length  of  leg  seems  to 
have  felt  it  most.  Three  times  the  balloon  passed  over 
the  Thames,  and  when  it  approached  Greenwich  marshes 
Godard  decided  to  descend— and  a  perilous  descent  it 
proved,  for  the  fire  was  still  roaring  merrily,  and  the 
sparks  flew  at  will.  The  car  bumped  the  ground,  and 
rose  again  time  after  time,  but  at  last,  by  the  aid  of 
"  a  hundred  sensible  Englishmen,"  who  caught  hold  of 
and  tugged  at  the  ropes,  the  monster  was  secured,  and 
the  adventure  terminated.  Burnaby  returned  in  safety 
to  his  barracks,  where  he  received  the  congratulations 
of  his  friends  ;  and  Mr.  Prowse  hurried  to  the  office  of  the 
Daily  Telegraph,  which  next  morning  published  his 
graphic  account  of  the  adventure.  "  The  Eagle  "  made 
one  more  successful  voyage.  When,  however,  it  was 
being  inflated  for  a  third  ascent,  it  caught  fire  and  was 
consumed  to  ashes,  though  happily  without  injury  to 
anyone. 

Henceforward  Burnaby's  interest  in  aeronautics  in- 
creased daily,  he  studied  the  subject  in  all  its  depart- 
ments, and,  after  joining  the  Aeronautical 
Society,  he  made  several  excursions  in  gas  9— A  Descent  at 
balloons  with  Mr.  Coxwell.     In  the  com-         juiy  i864. 
pany   of   his   "  lean   friend  " — indeed   the 
leanest  man  he  had  ever  met,  and  little  more  than  a 
skeleton — Lieutenant  Westcar,  who  had  a  balloon  of  his 
own,  he  once  ascended  from  Windsor,  where  the  Blues 

*  Daily  News. 


34      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

were  garrisoned,  and  after  about  two  hours  the  travellers 
found  themselves  some  two  thousand  feet  above  Bedford. 
Old  Mr.  Burnaby  was  in  his  garden  at  the  time  cutting 
roses,  and  chatting  with  his  organist.  Chancing  to  look 
up,  and  seeing  a  balloon  above  him,  he  said,  "  I  should 
not  be  surprised  if  my  boy  were  in  that  car,"  and  he 
ordered  the  servants  to  sit  up  in  case  his  son  should 
arrive  late  and  require  supper.  On  second  thoughts 
he  decided  to  sit  up  himself  ;  and  about  midnight  the 
door  flew  open  and  Fred,  accompanied  by  Westcar 
(colossus  and  skeleton),  burst  in  with :  "  Hullo,  governor. 
Here  we  are  !  Started  from  the  Cavalry  Barracks  and 
came  down  at  Riseley."* 

Burnaby' s  personal  appearance  as  he  sauntered  down 

the  street,  or  sat  on  horse-back  on  parade,  never  failed 

to   attract   attention.     Not   only   was   he 

Strength,      six  feet  four  in  height  and  46  inches  round 

Extraordinary  i\ie  chest,  but  his  face  was  finely  cut  and 
Wasfers. 

handsome.     Admittedly    it    was    not    an 

English  face.     There  was  something  of  the  foreigner  in  it, 

and  one  of  his  friends  described  his  appearance  as  that 

of  an  Italian  baritone. 

A  regular  attendant  at  the  fencing  school,  he  became 

one  of  the  most  expert  men  of  his  time  with  the  foils. 

He  could  run  along  a  bar  like  Blondin  ;  hold  with  arm 

outstretched  a  billiard  cue  with  the  butt  in  the  air  and  the 

point  between  his  first  and  second  fingers  ;  and  vault, 

using  only  the  left  hand,  over  a  billiard  table.     Owing  to 

his  passion  for,  and  skill  at  boxing,  his  military  friends 

called  him  Heenan.   He  outdid  every  competitor  with  the 

dumb-bells,  and  there  is,  we  believe,  still  preserved  in  one 

of  his  clubs,  a  glass  case  containing  a  huge  dumb-bell,  and 

a  written  challenge  to  any  man  to  hold  it  at  arm's  length 

for  the  space  of  sixty  seconds.     Burnaby,  and  Burnaby 

alone,  could  perform  this  feat.     He  used  to  toy  with  a 

dumb-bell  weighing  a  hundred  weight  and  a  half,  which 

*  Eight  miles  from  Bedford. 


BALLOONING  35 

only  one  other  man — Mr.  Lawrence  Levy,*  could  lift, 
and  to  rear  straight  above  his  head  another  dumb-bell 
weighing  one  hundred  and  twenty  pounds.  "  There  were 
no  two  men  living,"  observed  Mr.  T.  Gibson  Bowles  to  the 
author,  "  whose  heads  he  could  not  have  knocked  to- 
gether." He  was  the  strongest  man  of  his  time.  The 
anecdote  of  Burnaby  and  the  ponies  has  often  been 
told.  There  are  several  versions  of  it,  but  the  following 
has  found  most  acceptance  :  Once  when  Burnaby  was  at 
Windsor,  a  horsedealer  who  had  come  into  possession 
of  a  couple  of  very  small  ponies,  took  them  thither  by 
command  to  exhibit  them  to  the  Queen.  Before  going 
to  the  castle  he  showed  them  to  the  officers  of  the  Blues, 
to  whom  occurred  the  idea  of  having  a  joke  at  Burnaby's 
expense,  so  they  drove  the  ponies  upstairs  to  his  room, 
which  was  on  the  first  flight — and  the  door  being  only 
ajar,  the  animals  trotted  in  unannounced.  Burnaby, 
who  could  always  appreciate  a  jest  was  sufficiently 
amused,  but  then  came  a  difficulty.  The  ponies  had 
gone  upstairs  quietly  enough,  but  neither  force  nor  en- 
treaty could  induce  them  to  descend.  The  hour  ap- 
proached at  which  they  were  to  be  presented  to  the 
Queen,  and  their  owner  was  desperate.  Burnaby,  how- 
ever, soon  settled  the  matter.  Taking  up  a  pony  under 
each  arm,  as  if  they  were  cats,  he  walked  downstairs 
with  them  and  set  them  in  the  courtyard. 

On  one  occasion  he  took  a  thick  kitchen  poker  and 
with  his  hands  bent  it  double.  Then  he  curled  it  round 
a  companion's  neck,  making  a  collar  of  it,  from  which 
the  man  tried  in  vain  to  release  himself.  Burnaby 
however  quietly  untwisted  it,  and  with  as  much  ease  as 
if  he  were  untying  a  neckerchief.  Among  those  who 
witnessed    with    amusement   these    remarkable    feats — 

*  Mr.  Levy  in  an  article  in  the  Birmingham  Gazette  of  17th  February, 
1908,  says,  in  reference  to  a  meeting  with  Burnaby,  "  He  was  somewhat 
dubious  as  I  pitted  some  of  my  feats  against  those  he  told  me  he  prac- 
tised. I  was  built  in  the  unheroic  mould  of  5ft.  4 Jin.,  he  was  6ft.  4m.  At 
the  Fisheries  Exhibition,  Col.  Burnaby's  heavy  dumb-bell,  weighing  some 
170  lbs.,  was  on  view  and  I — let  it  be  said  with  all  due  modesty — was  the 
only  athlete  who  ever  put  it  up  except  the  Colonel." 

D  2 


36      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

though  Burnaby  himself  made  light  of  them — were  the 
Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales — our  present  King  and 
Queen. 

Notwithstanding  his  enormous  strength,  Burnaby 
was  not  infrequently  prostrated  by  illness  and  racked 
with  pain,  and  he  used  to  say  that  he  had  had  every  com- 
plaint in  the  pharmacopoeia.  From  liver  trouble  and 
dyspepsia  he  was  scarcely  ever  free,  and  he  often  com- 
plained that  the  vulture  of  Prometheus  had  fastened 
upon  his  viscera,  and  refused  to  be  driven  from  its  prey  ; 
but  though  he  systematically  combated  this  vulture  by 
means  of  early  rising,  active  exercise,  and  the  austerity 
of  an  anchorite,  it  must  be  admitted  that  he  sometimes 
heedlessly  encouraged  it.  Thus  he  made  many  extra- 
ordinary wagers.  One  was  that  he  would  reduce  himself 
four  stone  in  as  many  months  ;  and  by  means  of  Turkish 
baths  and  a  quantity  of  Cockle's  pills,  a  commodity  in 
which  he  had  unshakable  faith,  he  attained  his  end  ; 
but  on  winning  the  wager  he  walked  straight  to  the  Old 
University  Club,  where  in  the  company  of  his  father  he 
indulged  in  a  meal  such  as  even  he  had  never  before 
enjoyed. 

"  It  is  only  after  a  long  fast,"  he  said,  "  that  you  can 
really  appreciate  a  good  dinner."  The  result  was  a  swift 
and  almost  incredible  addition  to  his  weight  ;  but  whether 
this  Gargantuan  feast  following  immediately  a  prolonged 
fast  was  beneficial  to  that  liver,  of  whose  vagaries  he  so 
often  complained,  is  perhaps  open  to  doubt. 

Another  of  his  bets  was  that  he  would  run,  row,  ride, 
hop,  and  walk  five  successive  quarters  of  a  mile  within  one 
quarter  of  an  hour  ;  and  a  boat  and  a  horse  having  been 
stationed  in  readiness  on  the  banks  of  the  Thames,  he  set 
himself  to  the  feat,  which  he  performed  in  less  than 
thirteen  minutes. 

An  excellent  rider,  he  gave  his  horses  such  Bible  names 
as  Beelzebub,  Ahasuerus  and  Belial ;  while  a  favourite 
Pomeranian  dog  answered  to  the  name  of  Nimshi. 

Shortly  after  the  balloon  voyage  to  Bedford,  Mr.  Westcar 


ml 


Mrs.   MANNERS-SUTTON. 
burnaby's   ELDER    SISTER. 

Said  to  have  been  the  most  beautiful  woman  of  her  time. 


BALLOONING  39 

invited    Burnaby  to    a   country  house,   where  he    had 

hired    the    shooting.     The    guns    were    no 

sooner  out,  than  it  became  evident  that    li— A  Shooting 

there  were  very  few  birds  ;  and  both  West-  Fracas. 

car  and  Burnaby  took  the  owner  of  the 

land — a  big,  burly  fellow  named  Hooker — severely  to 

task. 

'  Perhaps,"    said    Mr.    Hooker,  .sarcastically,    "  you 
think  I've  been  over  the  ground  before." 

Burnaby  having  replied  with  a  sarcasm,  Mr.  Hooker, 
who  confused  him  with  someone  else,  made  a  serious 
charge  against  him,  whereupon  Burnaby  gave  his  accuser 
a  thrashing. 

The  latter  retaliated  bv  bringing  against  Burnabv  an 
action,  which  was  tried  in  the  Court  of  Exchequer  at 
Westminster,  before  Mr.  Baron  Martin.  Mr.  (afterwards 
Baron)  Huddleston  appeared  for  Burnaby,  his  attorney 
being  a  gentleman  of  the  name  of  Home  ;  while  Serjeant 
Ballantine  acted  for  the  plaintiff.  The  case,  which  was 
decided  against  Burnaby,  created  unusual  excitement  in 
court,  owing  chiefly  to  the  violence  of  the  language  used 
on  both  sides.  From  the  judge  himself,  even,  escaped 
some  indefensible  remarks,  which  had  to  be  withdrawn  ; 
and  Evelyn  Burnaby  could  not  resist  the  temptation 
to  send  him  a  stinging  valentine.  Indeed,  to  quote  the 
report  of  the  Blues'  riding-master,  who  was  present  on 
the  occasion,  "it  was  hawful  'ot  in  that  court.  There 
was  Eenan*  and  Orne,  Uddleston  and  Ooker|  all  a  fight- 
ing like  hanything." 

For  long  the  Rev.  Gustavus  Burnaby  had  nursed  the 
hope  of  being  able  to  present  himself  to  both  the  Leices- 
tershire livings  of  Somerby  and  Burrough,    12—  The  Rev. 
but  the  Pluralities  Bill  introduced  by  his  Gustavus 

Leicestershire   neighbour,    Mr.   Frewin,   of      SomTrby^Vnd 
Cold  Overton  (M.P.  for  Brighton),  who  by        June,  1866. 
the  by  was  a  man  of  enormous   size,f  had  made  that 

*  Burnaby. 

■j"  He  weighed  20  stone.     He  had  a  special  mahogany  bedstead  made  for 
himself. 


40      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

impossible ;  and,  as  a  result,  his  attitude  towards  Mr.  Fre- 
win  was  one  of  hostility.     However,   feeling  his  years 
increasing,   and  prompted  by  the  desire  to  spend  the 
remainder  of  them  at  Somerby  Hall,  he  in  1866,  after 
having   officiated   at   St.    Peter's   for   thirty-one    years, 
exchanged  livings  with  the  Rev.  S.  Rolleston,  of  Somerby. 
The  Rev.  Gustavus,  it  seems,  was  far  too  much  of  an 
autocrat  to  please  the  people  of  that  parish.     To  one 
encroachment  on  their  rights,  or  supposed  rights,  after 
another  the  people   grumblingly   submitted,   but  when 
the  old  gentleman  proposed  to  Avail  in  the  village  pond, 
the  parish,  backed  by  Mr.  Frewin,  not  only  broke  into 
open  rebellion,  but  boldly  dared  him  to  make  the  at- 
tempt ;    and    henceforth    there    were    continual    broils. 
A  little  later  certain  sanitary  improvements  were  pro- 
posed in  the  village,   and  a  public  meeting  was  held, 
among  those  present  being  the  Sanitary  Inspector  and 
the  Rev.   Gustavus.     There  was  much  discursive  talk 
on  the  occasion  about  "  nuisances,"  and  various  persons 
expressed    their    opinions    and    aired    their    grievances. 
At  last  a  purple-faced  farmer  got  up,  and  addressing  the 
Sanitary  Inspector  said,  after  mopping  his  forehead  with 
a  huge  bandana,  "  I'll  tell  ye  what  it  is,  mister,  the  big- 
gest nuisance   in  this  here   parish  is  our  old  parson." 
The  meeting  roared,  the  Rev.  Gustavus,  who   like   the 
rest  of  his  family,  had  a  keen  sense  of  the  ridiculous, 
joining  in  the  laughter  ;  nor  was  he  seriously  perturbed 
when      somebody      tarred     on     his      entrance      gates 
"  Nuisance  Hall." 

Unlike  his  father,  Fred,  who  was  often  at  Somerby 
on  leave,  was  really  popular  in  the  neighbourhood. 
His  arrival  indeed  was  always  the  signal  for  excitement 
and  joviality.  At  one  time  or  another  he  must  have 
boxed  with  almost  every  inhabitant.  Among  those 
who  faced  him  and  showed  excellent  though  futile 
fight,  was  the  local  policeman,  and  it  is  recalled  that  after 
a  particularly  good  bout  on  Burrough  Hill,*  Fred  pre- 
sented his  opponent  with  a  sovereign. 

*  A  Roman  encampment  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Somerby. 


BALLOONING  41 

To  the  irrefutable  delinquencies  of  the  Rev.  Gustavus 
the  inhabitants  of  Burrough  most  unkindly  added  one 
of  which  he  was  certainly  innocent.  There  is  a  story  to  the 
effect  that  he  removed  one  of  the  Somerby  bells  to  Bur- 
rough  ;  and  the  Burrough  people,  as  receivers,  are  sup- 
posed to  have  been  as  culpable  as  the  reverend  gentle- 
man. Consequently  when  Burrough  man  bites  thumb 
at  Somerby  man,  the  latter  never  neglects  to  include 
among  other  disparaging  insinuations,  "  Who  stole  the 
Somerby  bell  ?  "  Indeed,  if  you  go  to  Burrough  belfry 
and  ask  the  ringers  which  is  the  Somerbv  bell,  thev  will 
point  it  out  and  say,  "  This  one."  It  matters  not  that 
the  Rev.  G.  E.  Britten,  the  present  Vicar  of  Somerby, 
has  carefully  investigated  the  tradition,  and  has  explained 
in  a  lucid  and  amusing  paper*  how  the  error  arose, 
the  bell  of  Burrough  will  to  the  end  of  time  be  pointed 
to  in  proof  of  the  authenticity  of  the  story  ;  and  to  the 
end  of  time,  too,  there  will  be  bad  blood  between  Somerby 
men  and  Burrough  men,  while  the  memory  of  a  perfectly 
innocent,  if  exasperating,  old  gentleman  will  be  saddled 
with  a  misdeed  which  he  never  committed,  and  which 
was  never  committed  by  anyone. 

As  years  passed  by  Mr.  Burnaby  jogged  along  after  a 
fashion  with  his  parishioners,  but  he  always  regretted 
having  left  Bedford  ;  he  became  as  melancholy  as  the 
padge-owl  that  hooted  in  his  park  ;  and  he  could  never 
quite  forgive  Mr.  Frewin.  One  day  Mr.  Frewin  was 
thrown  out  of  his  carriage.  "  Fortunately,"  com- 
mented Mr.  Burnaby,  ' '  he  fell  on  his  head,  and  therefore 
was  not  hurt."  There  is,  however,  another  version  of 
this  anecdote,  according  to  which  the  reverend  gentle- 
man did  not  say  "  Fortunately,"  but  "  Unfortunately," 
which  was  even  more  caustic.  A  memorial  of  one  of 
Fred's  visits  to  Somerby  is  still  standing  in  the  village — 
in  the  shape  of  a  row  of  cottages,  with  a  stone  carved 
"  F.G.B.,  1862,"  which  his  father  bought  and  presented 
to  him  in  order  to  secure  him  a  vote.| 

*  A  Stolen  Church  Bell.  Printed  in  the  Grantham  Journal,  i6th,  April,  1904. 
■\  In  anticipation  of  his  21st  birthday  which  would  fall  on  3rd,  March,  1S63. 


42      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

Aeronautics  still  occupied  most  of  Fred's  spare  time. 

Hitherto  balloons  had  been  absolutely  at  the  mercy  of 

the  winds,  but  he  believed  that  it  would 

—An  Accident  ke    possible   to    guide    them  ;    and  it  was 

in  *  \i g  Ail1 

1867.  to  the  discovery  of  this  secret  that  his 
studies  were  chiefly  directed.  While  he 
was  thus  employed,  his  attention  was  drawn  to  an 
advertisement  which  stated  that  a  French  aeronaut 
had  at  last  invented  a  controllable  aerostat,  in  which 
he  intended  to  make  an  ascent  from  Cremorne.  Burnaby 
at  once  went  to  see  the  machine,  which  turned  out  to  be, 
not  an  ordinary  pear-shaped  balloon,  but  an  object  some- 
thing like  a  gigantic  barrel  pointed  at  both  ends,  while 
it  was  provided  with  wheels  and  screw-fans  which, 
according  to  the  Frenchman,  made  it  controllable. 
Though  Burnaby  had  little  faith  in  the  invention,  he  was 
prepared  to  add  to  his  experiences,  especially  as  the  ex- 
periment seemed  likely  to  prove  a  dangerous  one  ;  so  he 
expressed  his  intention  of  accompanying  the  Frenchman 
on  the  journey.  On  the  day  fixed  upon,  the  aerostat 
was  filled,  but  Burnaby  noticed  a  serious  defect  in  it, 
namely,  that  the  neck,  owing  to  its  distance  above  the 
car,  would  be  out  of  reach  during  the  voyage.  However, 
he  took  his  seat  with  the  Frenchman  and  his  assistant ; 
and,  amid  the  cheers  of  an  expectant  crowd,  the  aero- 
nauts commenced  turning  the  wheels.  The  fans  revolved 
at  a  tremendous  pace,  the  aeronauts  perspired,  the 
spectators  laughed,  but  nothing  happened.  At  last 
Burnaby,  who  had  lost  all  patience,  seizing  an  oppor- 
tunity when  the  Frenchman  was  looking  another  way, 
caught  up  a  bag  of  ballast  and  dropped  it  over  the  side 
of  the  car.  The  aerostat  at  once  rose,  and  the  French- 
man, believing  the  movement  to  be  the  result  of  his 
machinery,  called  on  his  crew  to  make  even  more  strenu- 
ous exertions.  The  course  lay  over  the  Thames,  but 
Burnaby  could  see  that  there  was  no  directing  at  all — 
that  they  were,  indeed,  as  much  at  the  mercy  of  the  wind 
as  if  their  air-ship  had  been  of  the  ordinary  pear-shape. 


ASCENT    OF    LIEUTENANT    BURNABY,    M.    GODARD,    Mr. 

J    W.   PROWSE,  (of  the  Daily  Telegraph),  and  others  in  the 

enormous  hot-air  balloon,  The  Eagle,  21st  Jul}-,    1864. 


BALLOONING  45 

However,  novelty  was  something  but  when  they  were 
at  a  height  of  some  3,000  feet,  the  Frenchman,  happening 
to  look  up,  suddenly  became  alarmed.  The  balloon 
was  fully  distended,  but  the  neck,  which  should  have 
been  left  open  for  the  escape  of  gas,  was  tied  securely  with 
a  silk  pocket  handkerchief.  Seeing  that,  as  we  said  be- 
fore, there  was  no  possibility  of  getting  to  that  neck, 
it  was  clear  to  probation  that,  owing  to  the  continual 
expansion  of  the  gas,  the  balloon  must  burst.  It  was  a 
critical  and  exciting  situation.  They  were  3,000  feet 
above  London — a  minute  or  two  more,  thought  Burnaby, 
and  we  shall  be  found  lying  smashed  beyond  recognition 
in  one  of  those  fatal  streets.  The  three  men  gazed  at  one 
another  without  being  able  to  speak.  They  were  absol- 
utely helpless.  How  long  that  terrible  silence  lasted  they 
knew  not.  It  might  have  been  a  few  seconds.  It 
seemed  hours.  At  last  there  came  a  cracking  noise, 
"  which,"  says  Burnaby,  "  reminded  me  of  the  sound 
in  a  ball  room  when  an  awkward  man  treads  on  a  lady's 
dress."  It  was  then  seen  that  the  balloon  had  split 
well  nigh  from  neck  to  top.  The  gas  rushed  out  through 
the  rent,  the  balloon  fell  with  frightful  rapidity,  and  the 
three  men  gave  themselves  up  for  dead.  By  a  miracle, 
however,  the  pressure  of  the  descending  bag  of  silk 
on  the  atmosphere,  caused  the  loAver  part  of  the  balloon 
to  be  forced  into  the  upper  portion  of  the  netting,  thus 
forming  an  object  like  a  pent  house,  which  acted  as  a 
gigantic  parachute.  This  lessened  the  velocity  of  the 
fall,  and  a  little  later  the  aeronauts  dropped  into  a  grass 
field,  about  three  miles  from  the  place  where  the  accident 
had  happened. 

Burnaby's  reckless  deeds  led  many  of  his  acquaint- 
ances, and  especially  Westcar,  to  believe  that  his  chances 
of  reaching  even  middle  life,  wrere  slight. 
Once  at  a  dinner  party  at  the  horse  guards,  ^  s«h»rtbacth 
Burnaby,  Westcar,  Glaisher  and  Coxwell,  p0ie. 

being  present,  the  conversation  ran  on  the 
probabilities  of  their  various  lives. 


46      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

"  You  and  Captain  Burnaby,"  said  Coxwell,  addressing 
Westcar,  "  will  make  history  in  aeronautics  long  after 
my  time." 

"It  is  not  unlikely,"  said  Westcar,  "  that  you  may 
outlive  both  of  us." 

Coxwell,  who  was  twenty-three  years  Burnaby's 
senior,  shook  his  head,  but  to  use  his  own  expression, 
uttered  long  afterwards,  he  "  saw  both  of  those  noble 
fellows  out." 

In  July,  1867,  Burnaby  was  prostrated  with  gastric 
catarrh  ;  and  in  the  hope  of  benefitting  by  the  waters 
of  Schwalbach,*  he  made  a  journey  thither  in  the  com- 
pany of  Evelyn.  A  steady  improvement  in  his  health 
having  after  a  time  taken  place,  the  brothers  departed 
for  Nice,  where  Fred,  who  had  a  premonition  that  he 
was  destined  to  be  mixed  up  with  the  Eastern  Question, 
set  himself  to  the  study  of  Russian.  In  the  company 
of  his  instructor,  Mr.  Hoffman,  he  took  long  walks 
talking  Russian  all  the  way,  and  by  the  time  his  health 
was  completely  restored  he  had — such  were  his  linguistic 
gifts — thoroughly  mastered  the  language.  .  While  the 
brothers  were  in  the  town,  Evelyn,  somehow,  became 
embroiled  with  a  Polish  prince,  who  took  an  early  oppor- 
tunity of  expressing  to  Fred  his  desire  to  fight  a  duel. 

"  My  dear  sir,"  said  Fred,  glancing  with  half  shut  eye 
down  at  the  bellicose  gentleman,  "  I  don't  see  how  it  can 
be  managed,  for  as  my  brother  is  studying  for  the  Church 
his  hands  are,  so  to  speak,  tied  ;  but,"  he  added,  with 
a  characteristic  twinkle  in  that  same  eye,  "  rather  than 
you  should  be  disappointed,  I'll  fight  for  him." 

The  Pole,  who  was  perfectly  conversant  with  Fred's 
achievements  both  as  a  swordsman  and  a  shot,  raised 
what  Fred  called  "  some  absurd  difficulty,"  and  nothing 
further  was  heard  of  the  matter. 

*  Near  Wiesbaden. 


CHAPTER    III. 

1st  january  1868  november  1870. 

In  Spain  and  Morocco, 
bibliography. 

1.  Letters  to    Vanity  Fair,  the  first  number  of  which 

appeared  7th  November  1868.  Burnaby's  first 
letter  is  dated  19th  December  1868.  All  his  letters 
are  entitled  Out  of  Bounds,  and  signed  Convalescent. 

2.  Letters  to  the  Morning  Post  in  1869  and  subsequently. 

For  some  years  one  of  Burnaby's  principal  friends 

had  been  Mr.  Thomas  Gibson  Bowles — indeed  they  were 

almost   like   brothers;    and  towards  the 

15— Mr.   Thomas  i      «..„,»„■■■■       t»      %  t-.  i  j 

Gibson  Bowles,  end  of  1868  Mr.  Bowles,    Burnaby    and 

Zanity  F4at'  an°ther  gentleman  with  literary  tastes — 
Mr.  Charles  Waring — decided  to  establish 
a  Society  newspaper.  Burnaby,  whose  intimate  con- 
nection with  Bedford  had  saturated  him  with  the  Pil- 
grim's Progress,  suggested  as  its  title,  Vanity  Fair. 
The  first  number  appeared  on  7th  November,  1868, 
and  from  its  inception  the  venture — "  a  sin  of  my  youth  " 
— as  Mr.  Bowles  penitently  calls  it,  seems  to  have  pros- 
pered— in  the  sense  that  the  public  were  ready  to  pur- 
chase it.  Among  the  earliest  contributors  was  Captain 
Cockburn,  of  the  2nd  Life  Guards — "  Cocky,"  as  he  was 
called- — a  fine  classical  scholar  and  a  writer  of  sinewy 
and  flexible  English  ;  and  Burnaby,  who  still  suffered 
from  ill-health,  volunteered  to  visit  Spain  and  send  home 
a  series  of  letters  from  that  country.  Although  Vanity 
Fair  had,  and  has  always  had,  a  staff  of  exceptionally 

(47)  F. 


48      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

gifted  writers,  its  weekly  picture  has,  nevertheless, 
from  the  very  first,  overshadowed  its  piquant  letter-press. 
It  is  almost  needless  to  observe  that  the  cartoons  of 
Vanity  Fair  are  world-famous,  and  that  a  public  man 
who  finds  himself  caricatured  in  this  way,  considers 
himself  honoured.  But  a  different  condition  of  things 
once  prevailed,  and  during  the  paper's  early  career, 
there  ensued  endless  trouble,  owing  both  to  picture  and 
print.  "  These  boys,"  observed  Mr.  Bowles,  to  the 
writer — alluding  to  Cockburn,  Burnaby,  and  others — 
"  were  continually  getting  me  into  hot  water."  The 
paper,  indeeed,  was  a  source  of  perpetual  anxiety  to  all 
concerned.  Burnaby  discontinued  connection  with  it 
after  two  or  three  years,  in  obedience  to  the  command 
of  the  Duke  of  Cambridge  ;  and  ultimately — in  1887 — 
Mr.  Bowles  himself  was  glad  to  shift  the  burden  on  to  the 
shoulders  of  another. 

We  said  that  Burnaby's  reason  for  wishing  to  visit 
Spain  was  in  order  to  build  up  his  health,  but  there  was 
another    reason.     The     flight     of     Queen 
16— At  Pau,  16th  lsabel  had  been  followed  by  the  formation 
of    a    provisional    government,    and    the 
country  was  on  the  eve    of    a    revolution. 
"  In  Spain,"  he  argued,  "  there  will  be  no  lack  of  excite- 
ment, and  I  shall  have  every  opportunity  of  studying 
my  profession."     As  part  of  his  luggage,  he  carried  with 
him  a  sack  of  fat  bacon,  which,  together  with  the  climate 
of  Seville,  would,  he  asseverated,  completely  restore  him 
to  health. 

His  first  stopping  place  was  the  French  town  of  Pau, 
and  his  first  letter — signed,  like  all  that  followed,  "  Con- 
valescent " — is  dated  19th  December  1868.  A  night 
or  two  after  his  arrival  he  was  alarmed  by  the  cry  of 
"  Fire  !  "  but  on  dashing  into  the  street  he  saw,  to  his 
surprise,  the  people  running,  not  to  the  fire,  as  they  do  in 
England,  but  helter-skelter  from  it,  and  in  all  directions. 
Having  arrived  before  the  burning  house,  he  found  it 
guarded  by  soldiers.     As  soon  as  he  presented  himself, 


IN    SPAIN    AND    MOROCCO  49 

however,  an  officer  approached  him  and  said  II  faut 
travailler,  monsieur ;  and  straightway  he  was  pressed 
into  one  of  three  lines  of  workers  who  were  passing  as 
many  rows  of  buckets  from  some  water  supply  to  the 
hand  pumps  ;  and  although  in  evening  dress  he  com- 
plied with  the  order.  But  the  experience  was  not  an 
agreeable  one,  for  the  next  man,  as  often  as  not,  spilt  half 
the  water  over  him,  instead  of  handing  it  on  properly  ; 
and  he  was  not  long  in  grasping  the  townsfolk's  reason 
for  running  from  the  fire  instead  of  to  it.  At  a  moment, 
however,  when  the  soldiers  were  not  looking  he  set  down 
his  bucket  and  slipped  away,  leaving  the  hand  engines 
squirting  with  absolute  ineffectiveness  against  the  fire  ; 
which,  as  he  afterwards  learnt,  burnt  itself  out. 

Wherever  he  went,  Burnaby  made  it  his  business  to  get 
sight  of  everything  worth  seeing.  Thus  at  Pau  he  visited 
the  establishment  maintained  by  the  French  Government 
for  the  purpose  of  improving  the  breed  of  horses,  and  he 
paid  a  high  tribute  to  the  hygienic  arrangements  of  the 
building  and  the  general  excellence  of  the  system. 
He  saw  much  in  the  neighbourhood  to  amuse  him  ; 
but  nothing  appealed  so  strongly  to  his  sense  of  the 
ridiculous  as  the  local  hunt.  Having  from  his  child- 
hood followed  the  hounds  in  the  finest  hunting  centre 
in  England — the  Melton  Mowbray  district,  and  being 
on  terms  of  intimacy  with  the  hardest  riders  of  the  time, 
he  was  prepared  to  make  large  allowance  for  Pau,  but  it 
never  occurred  to  him  that  things  would  be  quite  so 
absurd  as  they  proved.  The  field  was  cosmopolitan, 
but  chiefly  French,  English  and  American  in  an  astound- 
ing variety  of  get-ups,  while  Burnaby  himself  could  pro- 
cure nothing  better  than  a  ridiculous  short-legged  horse, 
named  Hercule,  with  the  result  that  his  own  very  long 
legs  almost  touched  the  ground.  He  was  informed, 
as  matter  for  congratulation,  that  there  were  no  obstacles 
in  the  way,  moreover  that  the  fox,  besides  being  a  bagged 
one,  was  to  have  "  his  natural  fragrance  enhanced  by  a 
liberal  douche  of  aniseed."     So  strong,  indeed,  was  the 


50      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

aniseed  that,  according  to  Burnaby  any  average-nosed 
mortal  could  have  dispensed  with  the  hounds  altogether. 
For  ten  whole  minutes  Hercule  did  his  best  with  the 
enormous  weight  on  his  back,  but  subsequently  he  slack- 
ened, and  finally  stood  stock-still  in  the  middle  of  a 
ploughed  field.  However,  after  reasonable  breathing 
time  he  was  induced  to  move  on  again,  and,  with  the 
help  of  a  short  cut,  enabled  his  rider  to  be  in  at  the  death. 
The  whole  affair  lasted  just  twenty  minutes,  and  one 
of  the  French  chasseurs,  after  declaring  that  the  sport  had 
been  exceptionally  magnifique,  volunteered  the  informa- 
tion that  Pau  was  the  Melton  Mowbray  of  France. 

From  Pau,  Burnaby  crossed  to  the  frontier  town  of 
St.    Sebastian,   whose  fortifications  he  found  mounted 

with  antique  guns,  which  bade  fair  to  be 

17— In   Seville,   more  damaging  to  their  owners  than  to  the 

1869.        enemy  ;  and  thence,  in  order  to  avoid  the 

rigours  of  a  Pvreneean  winter,  he  hurried 
southward.  He  found  Madrid  in  a  political  ferment — 
Carlists,  Royalists  and  Republicans  all  vituperating 
one  another  in  the  day  time,  but  sitting  side  by  side, 
nevertheless,  in  perfect  amity  at  night  while  they  wit- 
nessed the  popular  can-can,  which  was  the  principal  at- 
traction at  most  of  the  theatres.  Cock-fights  were  held 
regularly  on  Sunday  mornings.  "  A  first  class  bull- 
fight "  Burnaby  did  not  see,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the 
bulls  are  "  not  game  in  cold  weather,"  but  he  attended 
several  drums  and  balls.  The  loveliness  of  "  the  clusters 
of  choice  exotics  " — that  is  to  say,  the  Spanish  ladies — 
at  these  gatherings  quite  took  him  by  surprise ;  he  marked 
"  the  coquetry  which  gives  dancing  its  sweetness  and 
bitterness  all  over  the  world,  "and  he  expressed  his 
opinion  that  many  travellers  have  left  Spain  without 
forming  the  slightest  idea  of  the  wealth  of  beauty  con- 
cealed within  its  boundaries.  From  Madrid  he  proceeded 
to  Seville,  where  he  also  figured  in  the  ball  rooms, 
and  the  bronzed  and  dark-eyed  Andalusian  beauties 
were  proud  to  have  as  partner  the  tall  and  handsome 


IN    SPAIN    AND    MOROCCO  51 

Juan  Ingles  (John  Bull),  who  was  the  source  of  joy  and 
gaiety  in  everyone  who  came  into  contact  with  him. 
Nothing  amused  him  more  than  the  custom  of  the  men, 
as  well  as  the  women,  of  carrying  to  the  theatre  longish 
bags  of  dulces — sweetmeats  made  of  cream,  crushed  fruit 
and  powdered  sugar  ;  and  on  one  occasion  he  handed 
a  bag  time  after  time  to  a  pretty  girl,  just  to  see  how 
many  she  would  eat.  She  put  ten  between  her  lips, 
and  then  reluctantly  confessed  herself  vanquished. 

In  a  letter  to  his  father  of  February  16th,    he  says 
after  referring  to  the  hospitality  of  his  friends,  "  I  have 
just  been  calling  on  the  daughter  of  the  18_Burnaby  as  a 
Marquis    Sancha    Scha,     and  they  have         Troubadour, 
been  arranging  theatricals  in  which  I  am  ^isS^'' 

to  play  the  part  of  an  enraptured  lover. 
They  have  given  me  a  book  of  thirty  pages  to  learn  by 
heart,  bad  enough  in  one's  own  language,  but  the  devil 
in  a  strange  one.  What  did  vou  think  of  the  last  two 
letters  in  Vanity  Fair  ?  They  give  more  idea  of  Spanish 
life  and  customs  than  you  will  see  in  any  books  published 
on  Spain,  which  in  fact  are  written  by  travellers  who 
know  nothing  of  the  country,  its  habits  or  language. 
We  had  a  curious  performance  last  Sunday  at  the  theatre 
— '  The  Passion  of  our  Lord.'  There  was  immense  ap- 
plause when  it  was  finished,  and  the  actor  who  represented 
our  Saviour,  having  been  unfastened  from  the  Cross, 
came  to  the  footlights  and  bowed  to  the  audience. 
There  was  a  good  deal  of  crying  amongst  the  women  in  the 
gallery  while  our  Saviour  was  being  scourged,  as  it  was 
done  in  such  a  natural  manner  that  they  took  it  in  earnest." 

The  acting  altogether,  it  seems,  quite  exceeded  the 
expectations  of  the  audience,  for  when  in  the  final  scene, 
"  Judas  very  successfully  hanged  himself,  the  applause 
was  so  deafening  that  he  had  to  reappear  and  hang  him- 
self over  again." 

The  letter  concludes  :  "  You  have  no  idea  of  this  clim- 
ate ;  it  is  too  lovely.  Nice  is  no  more  to  be  compared  to 
it  than  London  is  to  Bedford." 


52  LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

In  another  letter  (written  to  his  brother  Evelyn,  18th 
February  1869),  we  hear  more  about  the  enraptured 
lover. 

"  I  am  going,"  says  Burnaby,  "  to  act  the  lover  to  a 
bright-eyed  Spanish  girl  this  evening  in  some  private 
theatricals.  You  would  laugh  if  you  could  see  my  get- 
up — an  enormous  cloak  and  broad  brim  crowned  hat. 
One  of  the  necessary  things  in  the  role  is  to  sing  an  amor- 
ous ditty  below  the  window,  but  as  I  have  no  more  voice 
than  an  old  crow,  it  has  been  settled  that  I  am  to  go 
through  the  pantomime  with  a  guitar,  and  another 
(a  concealed)  Lothario,  is  to  pipe  a  strain  to  the  fair  lady. 
What  a  pity  it  is  I  was  not  born  a  '  Mario  '  ;  it  is  humiliat- 
ing, to  say  the  least,  making  love  under  false  pretences, 
even  though  one  does  have  the  post  of  honour  in  the 
play. 

Vanity  Fair  has  a  capital  caricature  of  Bright  this 
week.*  I  begin  to  think  my  share  in  that  speculation 
looks  promising.  My  cold  is  all  right,  but  my  old  liver 
will  not  leave  me  in  peace.  Love  to  all,  and  wishing  that 
Madame  Rachel  could  renovate  your  gullet  and  my  liver 
as  easily  as  she  makes  antiquities  beautiful  for  ever." 

In  a  letter  of  7th  March,  Burnaby  continues  his  account 
of  the  incidents  of  Passion  Week.     He  says  "  We  are 
to  have  the  Veil  of  the  Temple  Scene  to- 
19—      At  a        morrow  in  the  Cathedral,  that  is  a  large 
Tentadero.    white  veil  is  hung  over  the  altar ;  and  dur- 
ing the  mass,  fireworks  are  let  off,  and  the 
veil  is  split  from  top  to  hottom  in  order  to   represent 
the  rending  of  the  veil  of  the  Temple,  but  you  will  see  it 
all  described  in  the  Morning  Post  and  Vanity  Fair.''' 

In  the  next  letter,  which  is  undated,  he  gives  some 
account  of  his  studies.  He  says  "  I  get  up  at  8.30,  to 
have  a  Spanish  lesson  from  9.15  to  10.45,  breakfast  at  11, 
and  then  go  to  the  barber's,  walk  about  till  12.30,  when 
I  return  and  study  Russian  till  1.30,  when  I  have  another 
Spanish  master,   who  comes  till  2.30.     After  which   I 

*  Vanity  Fair,  13th  February,  1S69. 


IN    SPAIN    AND    MOROCCO  53 

pay  visits  till  4,  write  letters  at  the  club  or  read  papers 
from  4  till  5,  and  then  go  out  for  a  stroll.  I  dine  at  6. 
At  7.30  I  return  to  the  club  and  talk  and  chafT  till  9.30, 
when  I  go  to  some  reunion  or  other  till  12.  We  have 
an  immense  procession  to-day  in  favour  of  freedom  of 
worship  and  abolition  of  the  army.  These  Radicals 
would  abolish  everything  if  they  could.  I  am  busy 
learning  another  language,  not  a  verbal  one,  but  a  more 
expressive  one.  You  have  heard,  of  course,  that  the 
Spanish  seiioritas  are  celebrated  for  the  way  they  manage 
their  fans.  A  very  pretty  little  Andalusian  is  teaching 
me  the  language  of  the  fan,  and  as  there  are  some  200 
signs  with  it,  it  is  not  so  easv  as  one  would  think. 

A  little  later  Burnaby  made  one  at  a  tentadero,  or  bull- 
fight rehearsal,  a  dangerous  amusement  which  was  taken 
part  in  by  some  twenty  Andalusian  horsemen.  After 
a  ten  mile  ride — Burnaby's  mount  being ' '  a  low  horse  " — 
(his  usual  luck) — they  came  to  a  grassy  expanse  where 
eighty  bulls  were  grazing.  The  object  of  the  company 
was  to  test  the  individual  courage  of  the  members  of  the 
herd.  A  specimen  having  been  selected,  one  of  the 
horsemen  approached,  and  precisely  at  the  moment 
when  the  creature's  hoofs  were  in  the  air,  struck  it  above 
the  tail,  causing  it  to  roll  over.  When  it  rose  the  same 
process  was  repeated  again  and  again  ;  until  at  last  the 
bull  turned  upon  and  charged  at  his  tormentor.  Then 
another  horseman,  a  picador,  approached  on  a  poor  hack 
which  had  been  blindfolded,  and  he  received  the  bull's 
charge  upon  his  spear.  As  the  bull,  instead  of  retiring 
after  this  result,  returned  and  made  another  attack, 
he  was  honoured  by  being  termed  a  muy  guapo,  that  is  to 
say,  an  animal  fit  for  the  arena.  If  on  the  contrary 
he  had  turned  tail,  he  would  have  been  greeted  with 
abuse,  and  condemned  to  pass  the  rest  of  an  ignoble 
life  in  agricultural  pursuits.  The  same  experiment  was 
repeated  with  other  bulls. 

Although  Burnaby's  companions  were,  as  he  subse- 
quently discovered,   all  men  of  aristocratic  birth,   the 


54      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

luncheon  that  followed  was  of  a  curiously  unceremonious 
character.  They  helped  themselves  to  meat  at  the  point 
of  their  knives,  putting  it  to  their  lips  in  great  lumps  ; 
and  drank  wine  from  a  goatskin  provided  with  a  wooden 
tap,  everyone  in  turn  applying  his  mouth.  Then  the 
bull-baiting  was  renewed.  At  five  o'clock,  or  thereabouts 
the  sport  came  to  an  end,  and  the  party  prepared  for 
a  brobdingnagian  debauch.  But  having  already  tested 
the  wine,  which  he  found  heady,  Burnaby  could  see  that, 
as  a  temperate  man,  he  would,  if  he  stayed  to  the  feast, 
be  regarded  only  as  a  marplot  and  a  bore.  So  he  cour- 
teously thanked  his  friends,  bade  them  adieu,  and  rode 
back  on  his  "  low  horse  "  to  Seville. 

At  the  inns  and  other  places  where  he  put  up,  he  had 
to  endure  considerable  discomfort ;  but  he  was  at  all 
times  a  cheery  traveller,  and  rarely  complained  about 
his  hosts,  no  matter  what  part  of  the  world  he  happened 
to  be  exploring.  He  entered  with  spirit  into  the  fun 
of  the  great  Seville  fair  ;  and  obtained  enjoyment  from 
booth,  cattle  sale  and  dance  ;  but  above  all  from  the 
bright  eyes  of  the  beautiful  and  voluptuous  Andalusian 
girls  who  were  seductively  attired  in  ?naja,  a  hat  perched 
coquettishly  on  the  side  of  the  head,  a  short  black  velvet 
jacket,  a  white  faja  or  sash-like  belt,  which  supported  a 
red  skirt  reaching  to  the  ankles,  the  whole  culminating 
in  the  tiniest  shoes  with  bewitching  red  bows  and  silver 
clasps.  In  Spain  married  ladies  hardly  ever  dance,  and 
a  pretty  little  senora,  who  had  been  married  only  three 
months,  put  on  a  puritanical  air,  and  affected  to  be 
rather  shocked  at  what  was  going  on.  "  Pacific  dances," 
she  said  to  Burnaby,  "  such  as  quadrilles  I  can  under- 
stand, but  valses  never." 

"  To  the  pure,"  observed  Burnaby,  "  all  things  are 
pure,  even  the  valse";  upon  which  she  menaced  him 
with  her  fan,  and  called  him  a  naughty,  wicked,  un- 
believing libertad-de-cultos- wishing  heretic,  who  ought 
to  know  better. 

At  Cadiz  he  was  invited  to  a  shooting  party.     When 


IN    SPAIN    AND    MOROCCO  55 

all  things  had  been  made  ready  and  the  company  were 
seated,  the  keeper  brought  a  number  of  bushes,  with 
which  he  hedged  in  the  sportsmen,  and  then  he  carried 
some  cages  containing  tame  partridges  to  a  spot  twenty 
yards  distant. 

"  Are  the  partridges  about  to  be  let  loose  ?  "  enquired 
Burnaby. 

The  reply  came,  with  a  laugh,  "  Oh  no  !  you  do  not 
understand.  At  this  time  of  the  year  the  male  birds  are 
very  brave  and  amorous  ;  so  we  catch  some  hens  and 
train  them  to  call,  and  we  shall  soon  see  their  novios 
answering  the  invitation  and  strutting  up  to  their  sweet- 
hearts." 

At  that  moment  two  gallant  little  cavaliers  flew  up, 
and  settled  near  the  cages.  This  was  the  signal  for  a 
general  volley,  and  the  victims  fell. 

"  Why  did  you  not  shoot  ?  '  enquired  the  person 
who  had  volunteered  the  information. 

"  Why,"  replied  Burnaby,  veiling  to  the  best  of  his 
ability,  the  contempt  which  he  felt  for  the  sport,  "  I 
thought  five  guns  enough  for  two  birds,  particularly  as 
they  were  sitting." 

"  Ah  yes,"  followed  the  man,  who  quite  missed  the 
sting  of  Burnaby's  speech,  "  we  always  shoot  when  they 
are  sitting  if  possible." 

On  March  15th  (1869)  Burnaby,  writing  to  his  father, 
says  :  "I  came  here  (to  Cadiz)  last  Saturday,  and  am 
going  the  day  after  to-morrow  over  to  Africa  for  a  few 
days.  It  is  pleasant  here,  but  not  more  than  110  degrees 
of  heat,  which  is  not  half  enough  for  me.  Most  of  the 
houses  are  riddled  with  shot  holes,  the  effects  of  the  late 
riots.  There  will  probably  be  another  riot  before  long, 
as  the  Government  are  aware  that  the  people  have 
enormous  quantities  of  arms  stored  away  ready  to  use  on 
the  first  favourable  opportunity.  I  have  been  rather 
idle  in  writing  to  the  papers  lately,  as  what  with  keeping 
up  my  Russian  and  moving  from  place  to  place,  one  has 
little  time  for  that  sort  of  correspondence." 

E  2 


56      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

The  proposed  journey  to  Tangiers  was  made  on  March 
16th,   by  means  of  a   local  ferry  boat  ;   and  Burnaby 
had  scarcely  arrived  in  the  town  before 
20 -The  Moorish  \ie  formed  the   acquaintance  of  a  young 
Girls?      Frenchman,  who  undertook  to  show  every- 
thing   worth    seeing.     Burnaby    observed 
that  he  had  a  particular  desire  to  see  an  exhibition  of 
Moorish    dancing    girls.     Few    travellers,    he    tells    us, 
had,  up  to  that  time  at  any  rate,  "  seen  the  real  thing," 
dragomen  and  guides  being  in  the  habit  of  putting  off 
their  employers  with  a  spurious  article — namely  a  collec- 
tion of  Jewish  girls  made  up  in  Moorish  fashion.      '  They 
go  through  a  Hebrew  jig,  which  the  innocent  traveller 
imagines  to  be  the  genuine  thing.     But  it  is  as  different 
from  it  as  an  ordinary  valse  from  the  true  habanera." 
Having  disguised  himself  and  Burnaby  as  Arabs — and 
Burnaby's  oriental  features  looked  extremely  well  in  a 
burnous — the  Frenchman  made  his  way  into  the  native 
quarter  of  the  town,  and  succeeded  in  engaging  the  ser- 
vices of  four  dancing  girls,  whom  he  managed  to  smuggle 
into  the  room  which  he  and  Burnaby  had  hired.     The 
dance  was  as  novel  as  it  was  fascinating.     While  two  of 
the  dark-eyed  damsels  tum-tummed  on  a  kind  of  harp, 
the  dancers  threw  themselves  into  graceful  poses  and 
performed  evolutions  that  baffled  description.     In   the 
midst  of  the  performance,  however,  a  thundering  beating 
was  heard  at  the  door,   and  the  master  of  the  house 
rushed  in,  exclaiming,  in  tones  of  abject  fear,  that  the 
Pasha  had  discovered  that  there  were  Moorish  girls  with 
uncovered  faces  dancing  before  infidels,  and  that  he  had 
sent  a  guard  of  soldiers  to  search  the  house.     If  the  dam- 
sels  proved  to  be  Moorish,  they  were  to  be  imprisoned. 

The  girls,  seized  with  panic,  fled  to  the  top  of  the  house, 
whence  they  hoped  to  escape  over  the  neighbouring  flat 
roofs.  The  Frenchman  drew  a  sword  cane.  Burnaby, 
who  was  weaponless,  snatched  up  a  bed-post,  and  a  lively 
scuffle  ensued.  Eventually  the  soldiers  were  worsted, 
and  they  made  their  way  out,  cursing  the  infidels  with 


IN    SPAIN    AND    MOROCCO  57 

loud  and  savage  curses,  and  cursing  also  the  infidels'  an- 
cestors for  at  least  two  generations  back.  As  the  sol- 
diers were  running  off  some  Jews  came  up  and  beat  them 
without  mercy,  whereupon  the  soldiers  ran  faster  than 
ever  to  the  Pasha,  who  no  doubt,  gave  them  another 
beating  for  returning  without  the  girls.  So  ended  an 
adventure  which  was  precisely  to  Burnaby's  taste,  and 
which  might  have  been  taken  bodily  out  of  The  Arabian 
Nights. 

In  a  letter  written  from  Tangiers  to  his  sister  Annie, 
Burnaby,  after  expressing  the  hope  that  "  the  dear  old 
governor,"  who  had  been  unwell,  had  "  got  right  again," 
says,  "  I  came  here  last  Tuesday.  It  is  a  wild  and  un- 
civilized place  with  inhabitants  almost  naked,  and  savage 
to  the  last  degree.  But  you  will  read  in  Vanity  Fair  an 
account  of  the  goings  on.  I  find  I  can  make  myself 
understood  among  the  Arabs  by  a  sort  of  mixture  of 
French,  English,  Spanish  and  Russian,  and  it  is  rather 
amusing  inventing  a  language  to  speak  to  them  in. 
I  have  bought  you  some  Spanish  slippers,  which  I 
hope  you  will  like.  I  had  some  good  fun  the  other  day 
at  Gibraltar  in  the  hotel.  A  Belgian  officer  wished  to 
make  love  to  the  wife  of  a  Spaniard,  who  was  quite  deaf, 
and  he  asked  me  to  interpret  his  compliments  for  him, 
and  so  he  began  in  French  to  me.  I  translated  it  into 
Spanish  to  the  Spaniard's  little  daughter,  and  the  child 
bawled  the  compliments  into  the  mother's  ear.  The 
lady  smiled  very  contentedly  at  the  Belgian,  who  was 
scowled  at  by  the  Spanish  husband,  while  the  other 
people  staying  in  the  hotel  were  greatly  amused." 

His  next  letter  was  written  from  Madrid.  After  ex- 
pressing his  fondness  for  the  city,  he  says  "  All  the 
embassy  people  are  very  civil,  and  got  me  directly  into 
the  principal  club.  They  play  rouge  et  noir  here,  and 
also  monte,  in  fact  these  fellows  are  always  gambling. 
The  picture  gallery  is  very  interesting.  It  is  by  way  of 
being  the  first  in  the  world.  All  the  best  of  Murillo's 
pictures  are  here I  have  great  fun,  now  I 


58      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

can  thoroughly  speak  the  language,  talking  to  the 
Spaniards  about  bull -fighting.  '  Ah,'  they  say,  '  a  bull- 
fight is  the  finest  sight  in  the  world.'  So  I  say  to  them, 
'  Oh,  but  you  should  see  a  man-fight*  which  we  have  in 
England,  that  is  something  like  a  fight '  ;  and  then  they 
always  say,  '  How  cruel  and  barbarous  you  English 
are  !  '  If  you  see  any  more  letters  in  the  Morning 
Post  signed  An  Idler  in  Spain,  you  will  know  who  is  the 
author.  There  may  be  one  some  day  this  week.  I  am 
quite  a  regular  Spaniard,  as  from  one  week's  end  to 
another,  I  never  speak  English.  There  is  sure  to  be  a 
civil  war  in  Spain,  which  will  probably  break  out  the  end 
of  March,  and  which  will  cost  an  immense  amount  of 
bloodshed,  as  the  parties  are  very  evenly  divided." 

In  due  time  Burnaby  found  his  way  back  to  England, 
taking  with  him  the  promised  slippers  for  his  sister 
and  various  presents  for  his  friends,  including  a  beautiful 
copy  of  Don  Quixote  for  Mr.  Bowles. 

*  Burnaby  was  present  at  the  great  fight  between  Tom  Sayers   and 
Heenan  and  at  other  similar  events. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

december  1870 november  1874. 

In  Russia  and  Italy.     Adventures  in  the  Carlist 

War. 

bibliography. 

3.  Letters  to  the  Times.     Written  from  Spain,  August — 
October  1874. 

Towards  the  end  of  1870  the  Rev.  Gustavus  Burnaby's 
health  began  to  decline  ;  but  by  December  he  was  con- 
valescent,   and    Fred,    who    had    for   long 
21—  In  Russia    wished  to  visit  Russia,  thought  he  might 
Dec.  1870.    safely  set  out.     On  reaching  Moscow  he 
wrote  as  follows  to  his  sister  Annie  : 

December  1870. 
I  left  St.  Petersburg  yesterday  at  12  mid-day,  and 
arrived  here  at  10  this  morning.  The  weather  was  some- 
thing awful — 22  degrees  below  zero,  with  a  cutting  wind, 
and  I  got  my  ear  frost-bitten  going  to  the  station  ;  but 
once  inside  the  railway  train  everything  was  all  right, 
as  the  carriages  are  admirably  warmed  with  double  win- 
dows to  prevent  the  cold  from  getting  in,  and  a  stove  in 
every  compartment.  Do  write  me  a  line  to  say  how  the 
dear  old  governor  is,  and  please  cut  out  and  send  me  here 
any  letters  which  may  appear  in  the  Morning  Post. 
A  little  later  he  wrote  as  follows  to  his  father  : 

Moscow, 
Thursday,  December  29th,  1870. 

(59) 

,      r.q-in-the  toOUiitaiB* 
qt    Mary  s  *■»  H 

Littleton,  »•■  *- 


60      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

Dear  old  Governor, 

I  hope  this  letter  will  find  you  better  and  yourself 
again.  I  like  Moscow  much  better  than  St.  Petersburg, 
but  notwithstanding  the  brightness  of  the  climate,  it 
does  not  agree  with  me,  and  I  shall  not  stay  here  long 
as  my  liver  is  like  a  Strasburg  goose's  in  size,  but  in  the 
course  of  three  weeks  I  shall  leave  for  Kief  and  Odessa, 
and  then  work  round  by  steamer  to  Constantinople 
and  Spain  ;  I  do  not  know  if  my  letters  reach  the  Morn- 
ing) P(ost),  but  I  flatter  myself  that  the  last  two  or  three 
have  been  very  good  works  of  composition.  The  friends 
of  the  Berosdines  called  on  me  yesterday,  and  I  went 
in  the  evening  to  their  house.  Madame  de  Berosdine 
comes  to  Moscow  herself  next  week,  and  then  I  will 
write  to  you  all  about  them.  What  a  bore  my  liver  is  ! 
I  put  some  mustard  and  cayenne  mixed  together  next 
my  skin  last  night,  and  I  am  raw  to-day  in  consequence. 
However,  I  am  getting  very  near  twenty-seven,  so  I 
suppose  it  is  time  to  expect  some  ailments  or  (other), 
particularly  after  twelve  years  racketing  about  in  Lon- 
don. At  all  events  I  must  congratulate  myself  that  I 
am  as  well  as  I  am,  as  poor  Adderly,  Baring  and  Westcar* 
my  contemporaries  are  already  gone  to  their  account. 
Ask  Evelyn  to  write  to  me  and  tell  me  all  the  news.  By 
the  way  you  have  had  your  Xmas  day,  and  ours  has  not 
arrived  yet.  The  Russian  Calendar  is  twelve  days  later 
than  the  one  England  and  all  civilized  countries  go  by. 
Some  years  ago  there  was  an  attempt  made  by  the  late 
Czar  to  change  to  the  modern  system  of  computation, 
but  the  people  were  so  ignorant  that  they  would  not  have 
it  on  any  account,  as  they  declared  that  putting  on  the 
calendar  twelve  days  would  shorten  their  life  by  that 
amount  of  time,   and  make  them  twelve   days   older. 

Good-by,  dear  old  Governor,  love  to  all, 

Your  affectionate   son,   Fred. 

♦Officers  in  the  Blues.  Burnaby's  other  early  friends  in  the  regiment 
were  Captains  Peach,  Carew,  Hentopp,  Harry  Womwell,  Sir  Ernest 
Paget,  and  Sir  Charles  Rushout. 


IN    RUSSIA    AND    ITALY  61 

From  Moscow  he  took  train  to  Odessa,  although  he 
knew  that  the  town  was  suffering  from  a  severe  epidemic 
of  cholera.  The  more  dangerous,  however,  any  place 
seemed  to  be  the  more  attraction  for  him,  it  was  sure  to 
have  ;  but  while  he  was  there,  courting  trouble  which 
did  not  choose  to  come,  a  telegram  arrived  informing 
him  that  his  father  was  worse,  and  he  at  once  turned 
homewards,  though  he  chose,  characteristically,  the  most 
dangerous  route,  namely,  that  through  Paris,  which 
was  then  in  the  hands  of  the  Commune.  He  carried  a 
travelling  bag,  and  the  regulation  cavalry  sword,  but  on 
approaching  Paris  he  hid  the  sword  in  one  of  the  legs  of 
his  trousers,  for  though  he  knew  that  weapons  of  all 
kinds  were  forbidden  there,  he  was  determined  not  to  be 
without  it.  On  his  arrival,  however,  he  was  at  once 
arrested  by  an  officer  of  the  Commune,  who,  struck  by  the 
peculiar  stiffness  of  his  leg,  charged  him  with  concealing 
a  weapon.  The  charge  was  not  denied,  but,  curiously 
enough,  nothing  more  was  said  ;  and  Burnaby,  the  regu- 
lation sword  and  the  hand-bag  ultimately  arrived  safely 
at  Somerby,  where  he  had  the  pleasure  of  learning  that 
his  father  was  in  better  health. 

With   the    Colonel   of   the   Blues,    Lord    Strathnairn, 
Burnaby  was  on  terms  of  cordial  friendship,  and  he  was  a 
frequent    visitor    both    at    his    lordship's  22_   w-th  ,, 
town  house,  2,  Berkeley  Square,  and  his  Prince  of 

country  seat,  Newsell  Hall,  near  Royston.  yienna^Lord 
Another  guest  at  Berkeley  Square  was  Strathnairn, 
General  Sir  Owen  Bryne,  and  it  was  their  ay' 1872, 

custom  after  obtaining  at  midnight  an  early  copy  of  the 
Times,  specially  set  aside  at  the  office  for  them,  to  discuss 
the  Eastern  question  together.  At  Newsell,  when  there 
was  hunting,  Burnaby,  owing  to  his  great  weight,  was  al- 
ways given  the  best  mount  from  the  stalls  ;  but  he  in- 
finitely preferred  the  delights  of  Lord  Strathnairn's  little 
place  in  Scotland — Ardroulin  Cottage,*  which  he  ever 
associated  with  deer-stalking,  shooting  and  fishing. 

*  Ardgour,  Ayr. 


62     LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

At  the  end  of  April  1872,  he  accompanied  the  Prince 
of  Wales  (now  King  Edward  VII. ),  in  the  capacity  of 
equerry  and  A.D.C.,  to  the  Vienna  Exhibition  ;  and  Lord 
Straithnairn,  who  was  to  represent  Great  Britain  at  the 
Exhibition,  travelled  in  the  same  train.     In  the  course 
of  the  journey  the  luggage  cases  which  contained  Lord 
Straithnairn's  jewels  and  decorations,  valued  at  £2,000, 
were  lost,  and  his  lordship  was  greatly  excited  and  dis- 
tressed.    The  Prince  promptly  wrote  and  telegraphed 
to  various  officials  along  the  line,  but  without  satisfactory 
reply.     Then  a  goods  train  caught  fire  on  the  route, 
and  the  Prince  and  Burnaby  passed  through  the  smoking 
debris.     When   they   arrived   at   Vienna   on   the   28th, 
nothing  had  been  heard  of  the  jewels.     The  prince  and 
Burnaby  went  to  the  Emperor's  palace,  and  Lord  Strath- 
nairn  to  an  hotel.     Besides  being  a  thorough  English 
gentleman  and  a  good  soldier,  Lord  Strathnairn  was  also 
a  very  devout  man.     It  was  his  practice  to  shut  himself 
alone  in  his  chamber  and  to  kneel  and  pray  both  before 
and  after  every  meal.     At  such  times  his  valet,  Stephen 
Solly,  had  to  give  three  knocks  at  the  door  and  wait  for 
the  "  Come  in."     On  April  29th  a  message  arrived  from 
the  prince,  through  Burnaby,  that  the  cases  containing 
the  jewels  and  the  decorations  were  found,  but  that  they 
could  not  arrive  in  time  for  the  opening  of  the  exhibition. 
Solly  knocked  at  the  door,  and,  obtaining  no  answer, 
entered  the  room.     His  lordship  was  on  his  knees  at  the 
couch,  his  face  buried  in  his  hands.     Finding  himself 
disturbed,    he   turned   quickly   round,    and,    addressing 

Solly,    said   "  D you,    sir.     What   do   you   want  ? 

Have  I  not  frequently  told  you  not  to  disturb  me  at  my 
devotions  !  " 

The  Prince,  Captain  Burnaby,  Sir  Owen  Bryne  and 
Lord  Strathnairn  were  present  at  the  opening  of  the 
exhibition  on  May  1st,  but  his  lordship  was  entirely 
without  decoration,  for  the  cases  did  not  arrive  till  four 
days  later.  Solly,  who  was  blamed  for  their  loss, 
was    peremptorily    dismissed ;    but    Lord    Strathnairn, 


IN    RUSSIA    AND    ITALY  63 

being  under  the  necessity  of  returning  home  a  few  days 
later,  sent  again  for  him.  When  Solly  re-entered  the 
room,  his  lordship  exclaimed  passionately,  "  Go  down 
on  your  knees,  sir,  and  beg  my  pardon  !  I  will  take  you 
to  London." 

"  The  fact  was,"  comments  Solly  in  telling  the  story, 
"  I  had  to  take  him,  for  he  was  nearly  eighty-four  and 
could  not  manage  without  me." 

After  a  round  of  balls,  dinner  parties,  military  parades 
and  operas,  the  Prince  and  Burnaby  also  returned  to 
England. 

On  reaching  London,  Burnaby  hurried  to  Upper 
Berkeley  Street,  in  order  to  see  his  father,  who,  while 
staying  there,  had  again  been  taken  ill. 
Deeply  moved  at  the  thought  of  losing  a  ReY.Gustavus 
beloved  parent — for  it  soon  became  evident  Burnaby,  15th 
that  the  illness  would  prove  fatal — Burn- 
aby could  scarcely  ever  be  prevailed  upon  to  quit  the  sick 
room ;  but  in  this  world  the  comic  always  trenches 
on  the  tragic,  and  it  intruded  even  upon  the  last  hours 
of  the  dying  gentleman.  Mr.  Burnaby  was  deeply  at- 
tached to  his  medical  adviser,  Dr.  Henry  Bullock, 
and  when  informed  that  his  end  was  near,  he  said,  "  I 
wish  I  could  take  you  with  me,  Bullock." 

'  It  is  very  kind  of  you  to  say  so,"  observed  the  doctor, 
— "  most  kind." 

Whereupon  Fred,  with  a  tear  on  his  cheek  and  a  smile 
on  his  lips,  said,  "All  the  same,  father,  I  don't  think 
Bullock  really  wants  to  go.  Besides,  what  would  a  doc- 
tor do  there  ?  " 

Mr.  Burnaby  died  on  15th  July,  1872,  aged  70,  and 
with  him  passed  away  a  fine  old  English  gentleman- 
imperious  and  aggressive,  but  good-natured,  manly  and 
magnanimous.  Whatever  his  faults,  he  was  of  the  stuff 
that  makes  the  English  a  respected  and  an  imperial  race. 

After  her  husband's  death  Mrs.  Burnaby  took  up  her 
residence  at  36,  Beaufort  Gardens,  London,  and  Fred, 
whose  grief  at  the  death  of  his  father  had  been,  to  use  Mr. 


64      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

Bowles's  expression,  "  terrible,"  never  allowed  a  day  to 
pass  without  visiting  her. 

In  the  following  year  Burnaby,  who  had  provided 
himself  with  a  servant  in  the  person  of  George  Radford, 
a  huge  trooper  in  the  Royal  Horse  Guards, 
24—  George  entered  upon  the  resolve  to  try  to  make  a 
1873.  '  journey  to  Khiva,  which  was  then  threat- 
ened by  the  Russians,  under  General 
Kaufmann,  and  he  nursed  the  hope  of  being  able  to  be 
with  the  Khivans  at  the  time  of  the  attack.  In  pursu- 
ance of  this  resolution,  he  set  out,  accompanied  by  Rad- 
ford, for  Brindisi ;  but  they  had  scarcely  reached  Naples 
when  he  was  taken  ill  with  typhoid  fever.  While  he  lay 
delirious,  the  landlord  of  his  hotel  wanted  to  turn  him 
out ;  but  the  Duke  of  Connaught,  who  happened  to  be  in 
Naples  at  the  time,  having  been  informed  of  what  was 
happening,  hurried— true  to  the  tradition  of  our  sym- 
pathetic Royal  Family — to  visit  him,  and  prevented  the 
outrage.  Moreover,  as  soon  as  it  was  safe  to  do  so, 
he  had  Burnaby  removed  to  more  comfortable  quarters, 
thus,  no  doubt,  saving  his  life. 

On  hearing  of  her  son's  illness,  Mrs.  Burnaby,  though 
over  seventy  years  of  age,  straightway  went  out  to  nurse 
him,  taking  with  her,  as  she  supposed,  a  trusty  servant. 
But  one  trouble  followed  hard  on  another,  for  the  girl, 
who  soon  after  their  arrival  gave  Burnaby  wrong 
medicines,  causing  him  to  become  worse  than  ever, 
began  to  exhibit  symptoms  of  delirium  tremens.  With 
a  sick  son  and  a  raving  maid,  many  a  younger 
woman  would  have  broken  down  even  at  home,  but 
Mrs.  Burnaby  found  herself  quite  equal  to  the 
exigency ;  and,  having  sent  the  girl  packing  back 
to  England,  she  bravely  set  herself  the  task  of  nursing 
her  son  single-handed. 

Thanks  to  her  devotion  and  Radford's  faithfulness, 
Burnaby  was,  by  and  by,  able  to  leave  his  bed,  but  to  use 
his  own  expression,  "  with  a  sylph-like  waist  and  taper 


X    •- 


V 


vv 


Mrs    EVELYN    BURNABY. 


Mrs.  PAGE. 


DON    CARLOS, 

DUKE     OF     MADRID. 


IN    RUSSIA    AND    ITALY  67 

form  " — having  been  reduced  from  eighteen  stone  to 
nine. 

As  the  Khiva  journey  had  now  been  abandoned,  he 
and  Mrs.  Burnaby,  accompanied  by  Radford,  took 
steamer  for  Seville. 

Some  months  previous*  his  brother  Evelyn  had  mar- 
ried a  lady  of  exceptional  beauty  and  personal  charm — 
Miss  Winifred  Crake — who  won  the  affections  of  every 
member  of  the  family  ;  and,  while  Fred  was  in  Seville 
and  still  in  feeble  health,  there  reached  him  the  news 
of  this  lady's  death  after  childbirth.f  His  recollection 
of  the  beautiful  character  of  the  poor  lady,  together  with 
his  sympathy  for  his  brother,  threw  him  into  a  paroxysm 
of  grief,  and,  after  sobbing  long  and  bitterly,  he  wrote 
and  sent  to  Evelyn  the  most  tender  of  brotherly  letters. 
"  It  is  very  hard  to  believe  she  is  really  dead,"  it  conclu- 
ded, "  but  Providence  works  so  strangely." 

Then,  turning  to  his  mother,  he  said  "  You  must  go 
home." 

"  I  can't  leave  you  in  this  state,"  she  said. 

"  Yes,  yes,  you  must,"  he  followed,  "  Evelyn  wants 
you  more  than  I  do." 

So  Mrs.  Burnaby  at  once  returned  to  England,  and 
Fred  remained  in  Seville,  where,  thanks  to  a  perfect  clim- 
ate and  Radford's  tender  care,  he  gradually  recovered 
his  health,  and  lost  his  haggard  and  emaciated  looks. 

Spain  was  at  this  period  in  a  more  disturbed  state  than 
ever.  King  Amadeus,  who  for  three  years  had  occupied 
the  throne,  having  abdicated,  a  republic  had  been  de- 
clared ;  and  its  establishment  was  the  signal  for  renewed 
efforts  on  the  part  of  the  Carlists  who,  commanded  by 
Don  Carlos  in  person,  moved  aggressively  from  their 
northern  fastnesses,  and  threatened,  by  their  enthusiasm 
for  the  cause,  to  carry  all  before  them.  Burnaby 
straightway  determined,  contrary  to  the  advice  of  his 
Seville  friends,  to  try  to  pass  through  the  Carlist  lines, 

*  May  1871. 

fDean  Hole  wrote  a  poem  on  the  subject.      Mrs.  Burnaby  was  only  22. 


68      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

and  he  disclosed  his  plans  to  a    Spanish    Colonel,  his 
companion  in  a  railway  train. 

"  You  will  have  a  difficult  task,"  said  the  Colonel, 
"  but  there  is  at  Vittoria  a  rascal  in  league  with  the 
Carlists,  who  could  help  you.  He  keeps  horses  and 
carriages.  I  ought  to  have  had  him  shot  once  or  twice, 
but  I  let  him  off,  so  he  owes  me  a  good  turn,  and  I 
will  speak  a  word  to  him  for  you." 

On  reaching  Vittoria,  where  there  were  numerous 
evidences  of  war  in  the  way  of  ruined  railway  lines  and 
blackened  dwellings,  Burnaby  sought  out  the  job-master, 
by  whose  aid  and  that  of  a  pair  of  rustics  he  reached 
Beasain,  where  he  took  a  place  in  the  San  Sebastian 
diligence.  But  the  travellers  had  not  been  half  an  hour 
on  the  road  before  the  vehicle  was  stopped  by  a  party  of 
Carlists — stalwart  and  swarthy,  though  unsoldierly- 
looking  men,  who  sprang  from  a  thicket,  and  presented 
bayonets.  When  Burnaby  mentioned  his  business,  how- 
ever, and  offered  to  unpack  his  luggage,  the  officer  in 
charge,  who  turned  out  to  be  a  Castilian  of  high  rank, 
not  only  declared  himself  satisfied  with  the  explana- 
tion, but  politely  offered  cigarettes  and  wine ;  and,  after 
half  an  hour's  hobnobbing  with  his  new  friends,  Burnaby 
proceeded  unmolested  on  his  way.  Several  times  he  was 
stopped  by  other  bands  of  troops,  but  by  giving  the  name 
of  the  first  officer,  and  repeating  assurances,  he  was 
allowed  to  continue  his  journey,  and  in  due  time,  after 
passing  through  San  Sebastian,  where  deserted  trains, 
ruined  bridges  and  smoking  villages  gave  additional 
evidences  of  war,  he  reached  Irun  on  the  French  frontier, 
whence  he  returned  to  England. 

For  a  year  or    so    he  contented    himself    at    home, 

but  in  the  autumn  of  1874  he  arranged  to  go  out  to  Don 

25—  With  Don    Carlos's  headquarters   as   military  corres- 

Carlos,  8th  pondent  of  the   Times  ;  and  Radford  re- 

Aug.  1874.  qUes^e(j  to  accompany  him. 

"  But    your    wife    and    children  !  "    ob- 
served Burnaby.     "  You  may  be  shot." 


IN    RUSSIA    AND    ITALY  69 

"  Must  die  some  day,"  replied  Radford.  "  I  might  be 
run  over  by  an  omnibus  at  home.  I  nursed  you  through 
your  fever  at  Naples,  and  I  may  be  of  further  use  to  you. 
Let  me  go." 

So  Burnaby  consented,  and  they  started  on  August 
8th.  Having  crossed  France,  they  made  their  way 
through  Bayonne,  where  they  obtained  Carlist  passports, 
to  Biarritz,  in  order  to  call  on  some  of  Don  Carlos's 
adherents. 

"  Don't  be  a  fool  and  go,"  said  one.  "  You  will  die 
of  starvation  and  be  eaten  by  fleas,"  said  another. 

"  Oh,  do  tell  his  Majesty  how  much  we  all  love  him 
and  the  cause,"  cried  a  dark-eyed,  raven-locked  girl  of 
eighteen,  and  then  she  added  "  But  why  go  there  ?  " 

Since  Burnaby  had  passed  through  the  Carlist  lines 
in  the  course  of  his  previous  journey,  there  had  been 
much  fighting.  Thus  on  February  23rd,  1874,  the  Re- 
publicans had  been  defeated  with  a  loss  of  2,000  men, 
but  on  May  1st  they  had  relieved  Bilbao,  which  had  been 
besieged  by  Don  Carlos,  who  then  retired  to  his  fastness 
at  Durango — fifteen  miles  distant. 

Don  Carlos,  who  was  extremely  desirous  of  obtaining 
the  good  will  of  the  British  Press  gave  Burnaby  a  warm 
welcome,  and  the  friendship  which  cemented  itself 
between  them  was  severed  only  by  death.*  In  Burn- 
aby's  eyes,  Don  Carlos  was  well  nigh  perfection.  Like 
Burnaby,  he  was  of  magnificent  physique  ;  he  firmly 
believed  in  his  star,  and  had  no  doubt  whatever  that  he 
would  some  day  sit  on  the  throne  of  his  forefathers. 
He  had  first  come  among  his  people  mounted  on  a 
richly  caparisoned  Arab  charger,  and  wearing  a  gold- 
tasselled  white  boina,  accompanied  by  only  twenty-five 
followers  ;  and  the  pomp  attending  his  appearance,  the 
disproportion  between  the  means  apparently  at  his 
disposal  and  the  success  that  had  rewarded  his  efforts, 

*  In  a  letter  to  the  Rev.  Evelyn  Burnaby,  dated,  5th  Feb.,  1908,  Don 
Carlos  mentions  "how  very  fond"  he  was  of  Burnaby,  whom  he  also 
honoured  "  as  a  good  soldier  and  a  perfect  gentleman." 


70      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

not  only  dazzled  the  imagination  of  his  fellow  country- 
men, but  struck  them  as  something  supernatural.  He 
went  in  and  out  among  his  men  as  if  he  were  one  of  them, 
shook  hands  with  them,  and  shared  with  them  their 
horrible  Spanish  soup  ;  and  they  on  their  part  regarded 
him  with  idolatry,  and  were  willing  to  follow  him  even 
to  death.  As  the  Biarritz  girl  had  prophesied,  Burnaby 
had  plenty  of  hardships  to  undergo.  There  were  fleas 
everywhere  ;  but  he  could  always  get  a  little  sleep  by 
discarding  a  bed  in  favour  of  a  plank.  For  the  Carlist 
troops  he  had  nothing  but  praise.  "  As  for  their  march- 
ing," he  said,  "  I  have  never  seen  their  superiors." 
Devout  as  well  as  brave,  they  attended  church  every 
morning ;  and  a  chaplain,  riding  at  the  head  of  each  bat- 
talion, read  out  prayers  and  the  litany  at  stated  times. 
No  halt  was  made,  but  the  officers  and  men  bared  their 
heads.  Burnaby's  letters  to  the  Times  gave  a  vivid  ac- 
count of  his  experiences,  but  perhaps  his  best  descrip- 
tion is  that  of  the  scenes  on  a  gala  day  at  Alio,  the  Carlist 
headquarters,  when  balconies  and  pillars  were  festooned 
with  coloured  shawls,  and  the  soldiers  danced  national 
dances  with  the  Basque  women  among  flowers  and 
corpses. 

Besides  being  under  fire  at  the  battles  of  Alio,  Dicastillo, 
Viana  and  Maneru,  Burnaby  and  Radford  were  present 
at  the  siege  of  Tolosa  and  the  capture  of  Estella,  where 
the  Republican  losses  amounted  to  4,000.  Burnaby 
and  Don  Carlos  became  inseparables,  and  English  war 
correspondents  accompanying  the  enemy  often  saw, 
by  aid  of  telescopes,  the  gigantic  Spaniard  and  the  gigantic 
Englishman  stalking  together  on  the  ramparts  of  Fort 
San  Marcial.  Burnaby  was  often  in  jeopardy.  Once 
when  he  was  calmly  watching  a  fight,  a  body  of  the  enemy 
turned  an  angle  of  a  building  and  delivered  from  within 
a  hundred  yards  a  murderous  volley,  which  brought  down 
several  men  near  him.  Burnaby,  however,  coolly  re- 
mained standing  and  chatting  on  the  spot ;  nor  did  he 
depart  until  the  attack  had  been  repulsed.     The  fighting, 


CAPTAIN    BURNABY    STOPPED    BY    THE    CARLISTS,    1S73. 

(From  Tin   G rapine  . 


IN    RUSSIA    AND    ITALY  73 

however,  eventually  degenerated  into  guerilla  warfare, 
directed  by  officers  whose  truculence  proclaimed  them 
fiends  rather  than  men,  and  the  whole  land  groaned 
under  savagerv  and  reeked  with  blood.  Nevertheless 
on  occasion  these  lurid  scenes  mingled  with  others  that 
were  purely  pantomimic.  After  the  Republicans  had 
shelled  Fort  San  Marcial  and  the  fort  had  replied  with  no 
casualties  for  weeks,  Mr.  Irving  Montagu,  one  of  the  Eng- 
lish war  correspondents,  asked  an  officer  to  give  an  ex- 
planation. He  replied  with  gravity,  "  We  can  never 
forget  that  our  good  enemies  opposite  are  our  relations 
and  friends  ;  nor  can  they,  nor  can  any  Spaniards,  cease  to 
remember  that  etiquette  which  is  due  to  those  we  love, 
and  which  should  ever  be  extended  towards  them, 
even  in  time  of  war.  Hence  it  is  that,  by  common  con- 
sent, we  sight  our  guns,  so  that  in  both  cases  the  shot  falls 
short." 

The  guerilla  warfare,  with  its  accompaniment  of  inces- 
sant assassination,  at  last  thoroughly  disgusted  Burnaby, 
while  the  playing  at  soldiers  was  as  little  to  his  taste, 
and  but  for  his  admiration  of  Don  Carlos  personally  he 
would  have  criticised  the  later  campaign  with  severity. 
He  and  Radford  left  Spain  in  September,  Mr.  O'Shea, 
of  the  Standard,  accompanying  them  ;  but  in  crossing 
the  Pyrenees  a  thrilling  incident  occurred.  At  one  place 
which  it  was  necessary  to  pass  there  were  two  paths  wind- 
ing round  a  rock,  and  fifty  feet  below  the  lower  tinkled 
a  shallow  stream.  Burnaby  and  Mr.  O'Shea  took  the 
upper  path,  but  they  had  not  gone  far  when  Burnaby 
heard  a  sound  of  falling  rocks.  Looking  down  he  saw 
Radford,  whose  foot  was  fast  in  his  stirrup,  lying  on  his 
back,  and  the  horse  with  only  its  fore  feet  on  the  path  and 
its  body  half  over  the  precipice,  while  the  ground  crumbled 
away  beneath  the  exertions  of  both  man  and  horse  to  free 
themselves.  But  just  as  Burnaby,  his  heart  in  his 
mouth,  was  flying  down,  with  drawn  knife  to  cut  Rad- 
ford's stirrup  leather  and  free  his  foot,  Radford,  by  a 
frantic  effort,  managed  to  disentangle  himself  from  the 


74      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

stirrup,  and  the  next  moment  the  struggling  horse  dis- 
appeared over  the  edge  of  the  precipice.  A  dull  thud 
reached  Burnaby's  ears  as  the  poor  brute  struck  against 
the  rocks  below,  but,  amazing  to  say,  it  was  not  only  not 
killed,  but  hardly  the  worse  for  the  tumble.  Had  Rad- 
ford fallen  too,  however,  death  would  have  been  certain, 
for  he  would  have  been  crushed  by  the  weight  of  the 
horse,  which  could  not  possibly  have  avoided  rolling 
over  him.  When  the  travellers  reached  England,  Rad- 
ford used  to  show  with  pride  a  horse  that  had  fallen  the 
height  of  Knightsbridge  barracks,  without  the  slightest 
injury. 


CHAPTER    V. 

NOVEMBER    1874  FEBRUARY    1875. 

In  the  Soudan  with  Gordon. 

bibliography  : 

4  Letters  to  the  Times,  4th  January  1875  to  7th  Febru- 
ary 1875.  Four  letters  written  from  the  Soudan — 
January  4th,  13th,  February  5th,  7th. 

Of  Burnaby's  interest  in  aeronautics  we  have  several 

times  spoken,  but  since  those  early  years  he  had  made 

26— A  Scientific  many  ascents,  chiefly  with  a  view  to  scien- 

B  M^Ttomas*'  tmc  discovery.     He  kept  a  common-place 

Wright,  3rd  book,  which  he  filled  with  notes  concerning 
''  '  ballooning  ;  he  received  newspaper  cuttings 
on  the  subject  from  all  parts  of  the  world ;  and  he 
nursed  the  hope  of  being  able,  in  the  company  of  his 
friend,  Lord  Manners,  of  the  Grenadier  Guards,  to  cross 
the  German  ocean  in  a  balloon.  In  those  days  the  fav- 
ourite place  for  ascents  was  the  Crystal  Palace,  and  Burn- 
aby,  having  requested  of  the  management  the  loan  of  a 
balloon,  was  referred  to  their  aeronaut,  Mr.  Thomas 
Wright,  who  henceforward  figures  prominently  in  his 
career.  Mr.  Wright's  own  life  has  been  plentifully 
spiced  with  romance.  Born  at  Bedford  in  1832,  and 
apprenticed  at  Olney,  he  for  a  time  followed  the  sea  ; 
but  after  a  voyage  to  the  Baltic  he,  while  still  a  lad, 
cut  himself  adrift  in  London,  where  by  courage,  industrv 
and  perseverance,  he  steadily  made  headway.  Early 
in  1857  he  sailed  for  America  in  the  Saranac,  which  on 
nearing  New  York  collided  in  a  dense  fog  with  the  Great 


(75) 


f2 


76      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

Western.  A  terrible  disaster,  however,  which  would  have 
resulted  in  the  loss  of  800  lives,  was  mercifully  averted, 
and  the  passengers  of  both  vessels  eventually  reached 
land  in  safety.  After  romantic  experiences  in  America, 
Mr.  Wright  returned  to  England  and  settled  at  Poplar, 
where  he  established  a  flourishing  photographic  business. 
Among  his  customers  was  the  aeronaut,  Mr.  John  Youens, 
and  a  few  days  after  forming  each  other's  acquaintance, 
they  arranged  to  make  an  ascent  together.  '  When," 
says  Mr.  Wright,  recalling  the  eventful  day,  "  I  found 
that  we  were  4,000  feet  high  and  still  rising,  I  could  only 
ejaculate,  "  Oh  lor!  Oh  dear!  I  wish  I  hadn't  come  !  " 
and  he  inwardly  resolved  that  should  he  again  reach 
solid  earth,  and  alive — a  contingencv  which  at  the  time 
seemed  more  than  doubtful — his  first  ascent  should  be 
his  last.  This  resolve,  however,  was  certainly  not  per- 
sisted in,  for  he  lived  to  make  500  ascents  and  to  become, 
in  succession  to  Mr.  Henry  Coxwell,  the  first  aeronaut 
of  his  day,  while  a  whole  host  of  men  whose  names 
are  written  boldly  in  the  annals  of  ballooning — including 
Colonel  Burnaby,  Sir  Henry  Colvile,  Colonel  Templer, 
Captain  Josselin  Bagot,  Major  Baden-Powell,  Mr.  Per- 
cival  Spencer,  the  unfortunate  Mr.  Walter  Powell,  M.P., 
and  the  equally  unfortunate  Captain  Dale — have  num- 
bered themselves  among  his  "  pupils."  At  the  time 
referred  to,  Mr.  Wright  had  four  very  fine,  air-worthy 
balloons,*  all  made  under  his  own  supervision  and 
varnished  by  his  own  handf  ;  and  he  suggested  that  the 
one  capable  of  containing  30,000  feet  of  gas  would  meet 
Captain  Burnaby's  requirements. 

Burnaby  replied  as  follows  : 

Hyde  Park  Barracks, 
S.W. 
September  27th  (1874). 

Sir,  I  think  the  30,000  feet  of  gas  balloon  would  be  too 
small  for  the  journey,  I  propose  making,  as  the  weight 

*  These  were  made  of  unbleached  cambric. 

•j-  Careful  varnishing  is  of  the  utmost  consequence. 


Mr.    THOMAS    WRIGHT, 

THE    AERONAUT. 


IN    THE    SOUDAN    WITH    GORDON         79 

of  myself  and  friend  would  be  27  stone  or  378  lbs.,  which 
would  leave  but  a  slight  margin  for  ballast,  of  which  we 
should  require  a  large  supply,  the  more  particularly  owing 
to  the  power  the  sea  would  have  in  condensing  the  gas. 
To  make  the  journey  to  Germany  with  anything  like 
certainty,  one  would  require  a  balloon  holding  at  least 
50,000  feet  of  gas,  and  the  more  the  better.  If  you  should 
know  of  anyone  who  has  a  balloon  of  that  dimension, 
and  who  would  hire  it  for  the  occasion  alluded  to,  I 
should  be  much  obliged  by  your  letting  me  know.  I 
hope  we  may  meet  some  day,  as  you  tell  me  you  are  a 
native  of  Bedford,  where  I  was  born. 

Yours    very    truly, 

Fred  Burnaby. 

In  reply,  Mr.  Wright  said  he  could  lend  a  balloon,  The 
Duke  of  Edinburgh,  which  would,  he  believed,  answer 
Burnaby' s  purpose,  and  a  few  days  later  he  called  by 
request  at  Knightsbridge  Barracks,  and  made  the  final 
arrangements. 

In  the  course  of  the  conversation  Burnaby  asked  Mr. 
Wright  many  questions  concerning  aeronautics,  and  the 
latter  detailed  some  of  his  experiences.  "  In  my  early 
days,"  he  said,  "  I  once  took  up  a  gentleman  connected 
with  the  Foreign  Office,  and  in  descending  brought  down 
the  balloon  with  such  a  bump  that  my  companion  flew 
out  into  a  field,  though  happily  without  injury,  while  I 
myself  shot  up  again  in  the  balloon,  and  was  soon  out  of 
sight.  My  companion,  on  arriving  home,  wired  to  the 
Crystal  Palace  enquiring  where  Mr.  Wright  had  come 
down  ;  and  I  need  scarcely  say  that  the  manager  who 
saw  us  go  up  together  thought  it  a  strange  question  to  ask. 
"  But,"  commented  Mr.  Wright,  "  I  don't  do  it  in  that 
way  now,"  with  a  very  distinct  emphasis  on  the  last  word. 
"  Indeed  on  a  calm  day  I  could  bring  a  balloon  to  earth, 
and  there  would  be  no  necessity  for  my  companion  to 
spill  a  drop  of  wine,  if  he  were  holding  a  glass  in  his  hand." 

On  November  1st  Burnaby,  who  had  for  the  time  being 


80      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

given  up  his  idea  of  attempting  to  cross  the  sea,  wrote  to 
Mr.  Wright  as  follows  : 

Sunday, 

(1st  November  1874). 

Can  you  have  the  balloon  ready  and  rilled  at  the  Crystal 
Palace  on  Tuesday  morning  next,  the  3rd  of  November, 
at  10  o'clock  ?  Failing  Tuesday,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
postpone  the  ascent  till  next  Spring,  as  Lord  Manners 
will  be  out  of  town,  and  I  also.  Send  answer  by  bearer, 
or  if  you  are  not  in,  telegraph  to  the  Knightsbridge 
Barracks.  You  will  have  to  communicate,  in  the  event 
of  compliance,  with  the  Manager  of  the  Crystal  Palace 
immediately — so  do  not  waste  any  time.  The  weather 
will  make  no  difference,  as  fine  or  foul  we  should  start  at 
10  o'clock. 

Yours  very  truly, 

Fred  Burnaby. 

The  object  of  the  ascent,  which  was  duly  made  on 
3rd  November,  was  to  test  a  machine  which  Burnaby 
had  invented  for  ascertaining  the  course  of  the  winds 
when  the  earth  and  a  balloon  are  separated  by  clouds — 
a  scheme,  so  to  speak,  for  studding  with  guide-posts 
the  highways*  of  the  air.  On  these  occasions,  although 
the  balloon  may  be  sailing  at  the  rate  of  40  miles  an  hour, 
nevertheless  it  appears  to  be  anchored  in  space  and 
utterly  motionless.  The  invention  consisted  of  two 
small  silk  parachutes,  attached  to  each  other  by  a  wind- 
ing reel  of  cord  some  thirty  yards  long.  On  rising  above 
the  clouds,  Burnaby  dropped  the  parachutes — first  one 
and  then  the  other  over  the  side  of  the  car.  The  travel- 
lers were  then  able  by  means  of  their  compass  and  a 
watch,  and  "  by  marking  on  their  chart  the  reverse 
parts  to  those  on  which  the  two  parachutes  descended," 
to  obtain  the  true  line  of  their  course.  The  invention 
worked  admirably,  and  the  travellers  finally  descended 

*  As  the  wind  blows  far  more  frequently  in  some  directions  than  others, 
the  air  like  the  land  may  be  said  to  have  its  highways.  See  Burnaby's 
reference  in  Chapter  6  to  "  the  usual  journey  across  Essex." 


IN    THE    SOUDAN    WITH    GORDON  81 

at   Southminster,   Essex,   about  half   a  mile  from   the 
German  Ocean. 

The  eyes  of  the  world  were  just  then  turned  towards 
Egypt  and  to  Colonel  Gordon,  who  had  been  appointed 
by  the  Khedive  head  of  an  expedition  for 
the  suppression  of  the  Nilotic  slave  trade  27— Thte  J£Uu  n5y 
and    Governor   of   the    Soudan  ;    and   the  Dec.  1874. 

Times    requested    Burnaby,    who    leaped 
at  the  opportunity,   to  join   Gordon  and   act  as  their 
correspondent.     With  his  usual  promptitude,  he  made 
straight  for  Suez,  whence  he  took  steamer  to  Suakim. 

"  We  were  a  cheery  party  on  board,"  he  wrote  home, 
the  Earl  of  Ranfurly,  Earl  of  Mayo,  Lord  Coke  Russell, 
Sir  William  Gordon  Gumming  and  myself.  They  are 
going  to  shoot  in  Abyssinia.* 

On  arriving  at  the  glittering  white  town  of  Suakim, 
he  added  to  his  letter,  "  I  have  secured  an  Arab  servant — 
a  Nubian.  He  cannot  speak  a  word  of  English,  but  I 
can  now  get  on  perfectly  with  the  Arabic,  and  in  fact  am 
the  interpreter  of  the  party." 

Next  morning  he  joined  a  caravan  made  up  of  a  num- 
ber of  Arabs  and  twenty  camels  bound  for  Berber  on  the 
Nile.  The  attire  of  the  Arabs,  he  tells  us,  was  scanty, 
but  the  lack  of  clothing  was  made  up  by  the  magnificence 
of  their  headgear.  The  hair  of  each  of  the  attendants 
was  piled  to  a  height  of  seven  inches  and  beplastered 
with  "  cosmetics  in  the  shape  of  liquid  fat,"  and  other 
vanities. 

"  Very  beautiful  !  "  Burnaby  remarked  to  the  Sheik 
of  the  party  who  accompanied  them  a  few  miles  out  of  the 
town. 

The  Arab  was  delighted  with  the  observation,  but 
seemed  disappointed  afterwards,  when  Burnaby  re- 
marked that  probably  it  was  worn  as  a  protection  from 
the  sun. 

"  Can  the  child  of  the  sun  fear  his  father  ?  "  was  the 
slightly  contemptuous  answer;   and  the  Sheik,  having 

♦Letter  from  Suakim,  Dec.  29th. 


82      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

turned  on  his  heel,  strode  back  to  Suakim  ;  pensively 
scratching  his  head  with  a  long  silver  skewer,  which  he 
wore  as  a  hairpin. 

Their  route  was  marked  bv  the  hu^e  skeletons  and  car- 
cases  of  camels,  and  the  vultures  which  had  been  gorging 
on  them  hardly  troubled  to  hop  ten  yards  from  their 
repast  as  the  travellers  approached. 

When  nearing  Berber,  the  party  met  a  slave  caravan, 
which  consisted  of  some  handsomely-dressed  Arab 
merchants,  behind  whom  marched  in  bands  of  four  and 
five,  a  number  of  boys  and  girls,  whose  ages  varied 
from  ten  to  sixteen  years,  the  cavalcade  being  closed  with 
men  carrying  koorbatches,  or  long  whips,  and  Nubians 
armed  with  spears.  A  skirmish  ensued  and  the  slaves 
were  captured,  though  they  soon  after  made  their  escape. 
However,  on  reaching  Berber,  Burnaby's  party  informed 
the  Governor  of  their  experiences,  with  the  result  that 
he  sent  out  soldiers,  who  overtook  the  fugitives  and 
brought  them  back.  "  We  went  to  see  the  slaves  in  the 
afternoon,"  said  Burnaby,  "  and  if  anyone  disbelieving 
the  cruelties  of  the  slave  trade  had  been  there  to  judge 
for  himself  he  would  have  been  speedily  undeceived. 
Twenty  boys,  with  eighteen  women  and  girls,  many 
marked  with  the  lash  of  that  fearful  instrument,  the  koor- 
batch,  which  had  been  relentlessly  applied  by  the  mer- 
chants when  the  poor  worn-out  victims  flagged  in  their 
endeavours  to  toil  over  the  heavy  sand,  were  living  wit- 
nesses to  the  brutalities  which  had  been  enacted.  The 
slaves,  it  appears,  were  to  have  been  sold  at  Jiddah,  and 
would  have  fetched — the  boys  some  £10  a  piece,  the 
better  looking  girls  considerably  more." — "  Whether," 
continues  Burnaby,  "  the  slaves  will  be  finally  much  bene- 
fited is  another  question  ;  for  the  women  will  be  given  as 
wives  to  the  Egyptian  soldiers  ;  and  the  boys  enlisted 
in  the  army,  such  being  the  fate  that  invariably  awaits 
all  persons  taken  from  traders  in  human  flesh." 

In  Berber,  Burnabv  found  a  wonderful  charm — 
and  he  carried  away  in  his  mind  the  picture  of  saffron 


TT 

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BURNABY'S   JOURNEY    TO    SOBAT,  Nov.,   1874 

,,     EL    TEB,  Jan.,'   1884 

„     ABU    KLEA,  Jan.,      1885 


IN    THE    SOUDAN    WITH    GORDON  85 

plain  under  violet  sky  ;  while  the  gatherings  of  the 
natives  by  moonlight— the  men  seated  in  groups  drink- 
ing merissa,  and  the  ringed  and  radiated  girls,  lithe  as 
leopardesses,  singing  love  songs  to  the  monotonous 
notes  of  the  tom-tom,  reminded  him  of  evenings  in  his 
beloved  Spain,  and  the  twanging  of  the  ribboned  guitar. 
From  this  land  Of  music,  merriment,  odoriferous  gums, 
and  great  pouched  pelicans,  he  proceeded  by  river 
slowly  southward,  passing  the  mysterious  and  oraculous 
Meroe,  "  where  the  shadow  both  way  falls  " — with  its 
pyramids  that  Herodotus  gazed  upon,  its  euphorbias 
with  uncouth  arms,  and  its  sands,  that  the  sandals  of 
Candace  and  the  Queen  of  Sheba  must  often  have  pressed. 
On  January  20th  he  reached  Khartoum,  which  had  con- 
siderably declined  in  importance,  owing  to  the  suppres- 
sion of  the  slave  trade  ;  consequently  the  Germans 
and  other  Europeans  who  had  lent  out  money  to  the 
slavers  at  400  per  cent.,  considered  themselves  hardly 
dealt  with. 

The  country  Burnaby  threaded  on  his  way  from  Khar- 
toum to  the  Sobat  river,  proved  magnificent  in  the  ex- 
treme. Under  noble  trees  fed  herds  of  gazelles  and  oriel 
deer  ;  along  the  banks  swarmed  hippopotami  and 
crocodiles.  Monkevs  chattered  and  swung  themselves 
from  branch  to  branch,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  Fash- 
oda  country,  who  were  absolutely  naked,  though  both 
the  men  and  the  women  dyed  their  hair  yellow,  were  as 
amusing  as  the  monkeys. 

Arrived  at  Sobat,   Burnaby  found  it  peopled  by  an 
ebony    race    of    splendid    physique — most    of   the    men 
being  six  feet  high — and  ruled  by  a  native 
governor  of  Gordon's  appointment.      The  28— Gordon,  7th 
slave  trade  having  been  all  but  abolished,  Feb.,  1875. 

these  people  lived  in  quiet  and  content. 
Two   attributes   of   civilisation — religion    and   money — 
were  quite  unknown.     With  the  future,  they  did  not 
trouble  themselves  ;  while,  instead  of  money,  they  used 
Doura  corn.      A  man  who  had  enough  Doura  to  last 


80      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

himself  and  his  family  for  a  week,  was  regarded  as  a  sort  of 
Rothschild.  Everyone  talked  of  Gordon,  whose  kind- 
ness made  him  universally  popular.  "  You  can  always 
get  more  out  of  a  man  by  kindness,"  he  used  to  say, 
"  than  by  any  other  method."  One  day  while  Burnaby 
was  standing  by  the  river  side,  the  steamer  Khedive,  from 
Lardo,  came  in  sight.  The  garrison  drew  up  in  its  best 
style,  a  salute  was  given  by  the  bugler,  and  then  Gordon 
stepped  on  shore,  in  company  with  Lieutenant  Watson, 
an  officer  in  the  Engineers.  The  meeting  with  his  great 
idol  was  a  proud  moment  in  Burnaby's  life,  and  the  more 
intimate  he  became  with  Gordon,  the  more  he  admired 
him.  After  inspecting  the  garrison  Gordon  returned 
on  board,  and  there  beneath  an  awning  on  deck  he 
administered  justice — censuring  or  praising,  ordering 
reward  or  punishment  as  the  case  required.  Some 
thieves  were  condemned  to  receive  each  a  hundred  lashes 
with  a  knotted  cord  ;  and  a  little  later  they  were  heard 
"  lamenting  their  fate — calling  upon  Allah,  their  fathers, 
mothers,  and  all  their  departed  relations  to  intercede 
for  them,  and  not  let  the  blows  be  quite  so  hard,  but 
just  a  little,  little  softer,  Bismillah,  and  in  the  name  of 
Allah  and  his  blessed  prophet." 

After  witnessing  a  native  dance,  in  which,  while  the 
women  sang  and  drums  sounded,  the  men  made  panther- 
like bounds  in  the  air,  Burnaby,  who  had  grown  ' '  a  huge 
beard,"  returned  to  Khartoum,*  and  Gordon  steamed 
back  to  Lardo. 

*  February  1875. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

FEBRUARY  1875  FEBRUARY  1876. 

A  Ride  to  Khiva.* 

On  reaching  Khartoum  Burnaby  became  the  guest 
of  a  German  gentleman  ;  and  he  describes  himself  as 
seated  chatting  with  an  Italian,  an  Arab 
29— To  Kasala,  an(j  another  Englishman,  while  a  graceful 
1875.  "'  girl,  with  large  dark  eyes,  pearl  white 
teeth,  olive  complexion  and  oriental  dress, 
handed  round  small  cups  of  coffee.  In  the  midst  of 
the  conversation  Burnaby's  eye  fell  upon  a  paragraph 
in  a  newspaper,  which  stated  that  the  Government  at  St. 
Petersburg  had  given  an  order  that  no  foreigner  was  to  be 
allowed  to  travel  in  Russian  Asia,  and  that  an  English- 
man who  had  recently  attempted  a  journey  in  that 
direction  had  been  turned  back  by  the  authorities. 
Burnaby,  being  of  a  "  contradictorious  '  spirit,  who 
moreover,  some  years  previous  had  planned  a  journey  to 
Khiva,  at  once  said  to  himself,  half  aloud  :  "  Why  not 
go  to  Central  Asia  ?  "  and  then  "  Well,  I  shall  try  it." 

"  You'll  never  get  there,"  said  the  other  Englishman  ; 
"  they  will  stop  you." 

"  They  may  if  they  like,"  followed  Burnaby,  "  but  I 
don't  think  they  will." 

Since  Burnaby's  former  attempt  to  reach  Khiva, 
the  Russians  had  considerably  extended  their  boundaries. 
Samarcand  had  been  annexed,  Bokhara  was  within  their 
grasp,   and  their  troops  were  quartered  within  a  few 

*  This  chapter  is  founded  on  Burnaby's  A  Ride  to  Khiva,  Vambery's 
Travels  in  Central  Asia,  the  letters  of  Colonel  Fred  Burnaby  and  the 
Rev.  Evelyn  Burnaby,  and  scattered  notes  made  by  Colonel  Burnaby. 
Two  editions  of  A  Ride  to  Khiva  are  now  on  sale,  one  with  illustrations  in 
"  The  Favourite  Library  "  at  3/6,  and  a  popular  edition  at  6d.,  both  pub- 
lished by  Messrs.  Cassell. 

(87)  G 


88      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

miles  of  Khiva  itself.  "  If,"  asked  Burnaby,  "  the 
Russians  object  to  foreigners  visiting  Central  Asia,  what 
is  their  reason  ?  Are  the  generals  in  those  parts  treat- 
ing the  conquered  tribes  with  cruelty,  and  do  they  live 
in  dread  lest  the  outside  world  should  hear  of  it.  If  no 
absolute  cruelty  is  being  shown  to  the  people,  are  they 
being  badly  governed  ?  Are  bribery  and  corruption 
rife  ?  Or  are  the  authorities  afraid  of  letting  Europe 
know  that  instead  of  the  tone  of  morality  amid  the  con- 
quered being  raised,  the  latter  are  bringing  the  Russians 
down  to  the  Oriental  level ;  that,  in  short,  the  unspeak- 
able vices  of  the  East  are  indulged  in  by  some  of  the 
conquerors."  Elsewhere  he  shows  that  even  if  the  Rus- 
sians did  not  actually  encourage  libertinage,  they  did 
nothing  to  prevent  it ;  that  the  Bokharan  slave  mart 
never  lacked  human  merchandise,  and  that  troops  of 
youths  and  girls  were  in  the  habit  of  wandering  from 
the  heart  of  Asia  all  through  the  Oxus  country  for  the 
purpose  of  performing  the  lascivious  Scythian  dances 
in  the  native  camps,  and  of  otherwise  administering  to 
the  shameless  sensuality  of  their  Tartar  hirers.* 

That  the  ultimate  aim  of  Russia  was  the  conquest  of 
India,  he  was  in  the  habit  of  insisting  upon  both  in  season 
and  out  of  season.  Burnaby  has  been  called  an  extreme 
Russophobe,  and  if  by  that  is  meant  a  hater  of  the  des- 
potism and  chicanery  of  the  Czar's  government,  and  an 
opponent  of  its  ambitious  schemes,  he  deserves  the  name. 
Indeed,  he  gloried  in  it.  He  admired  the  sterling 
virtues  of  the  Russian  people,  however,  and  was  ever 
ready  to  admit  the  wonderful  possibilities  of  the  race 
under  proper  government. 

Having  resolved  to  go  to  Khiva,  the  next  step  was  to 
make  the  necessary  preparations.  He  carefully  studied 
the  principal  books  on  Central  Asia,  and  the  more  he 
pondered  his  proposed  undertaking,  the  more  difficult 

*  It  must  be  remembered  that  this  occurred  over  30  years  ago.  The  con- 
dition of  things  is  now  far  different.  See  also  the  Shores  of  Lake  Aral  (by 
Major  Wood),  a  book  to  which  Burnaby  was  indebted  and  from  which  he 
quotes. 


A    RIDE    TO    KHIVA  89 

it  seemed.  Besides  the  opposition  of  Russian  officialism, 
he  had  to  armour  himself  against  the  terrible  cold  and 
the  merciless  winds  of  the  Kirghiz  Desert. 

On  arriving  in  England  he  discussed  the  matter  with 
some  Russian  acquaintances,  who  expressed  their  belief 
that  the  St.  Petersburg  authorities  would  not  hinder  him  ; 
and  then  he  approached  the  Russian  ambassador  in 
London,  who  showed  himself  friendly,  but  declined  to 
give  his  opinion  as  to  whether  an  Englishman  would 
be  allowed  to  travel  in  Tartary.  Having  provided  him- 
self with  letters  to  General  Milutin,  the  Russian  Minister 
of  War,  and  General  KaurTmann,  the  Commander-in- 
Chief  of  the  Forces  in  the  Government  of  Turkestan, 
Burnaby  became  hopeful  ;  but  some  observations  volun- 
teered b}^  the  distinguished  traveller,  Mr.  MacGahan, 
whom  he  met  at  the  house  of  a  common  friend,  made  evi- 
dent the  greatness  of  his  difficulties.  "  You  will  get  on 
very  well  as  far  as  Kasala,"  concluded  Mr.  MacGahan, 
'  but  then  you  will  have  to  pull  yourself  together  and 
make  your  rush." 

His  thoughts  were  so  much  on  his  new  project  that  he 
could  scarcely  be  induced  to  let  them  approach  anything 
else.  After  much  persuasion,  however,  he  consented  to 
accompany  his  brother  Evefyn,  who  had  two  bench 
tickets,  to  the  Old  Bailey,  in  order  to  hear  the  trial  of 
Wainwright,  the  Whitechapel  murderer  ;  and  it  will  be 
remembered  that  there  is  a  reference  to  Wainwright's 
execution  in  A  Ride  to  Khiva. 

Burnaby  started  from  London  on  30th  November, 
1875,  reluctantly  leaving  behind  him  his  faithful  servant, 
Radford,  and  in  due  time  reached  St.  Petersburg.  Here 
he  had  an  interesting  conversation  with  a  Russian  officer 
who  said,  "  You  English  are  always  thinking  that  we 
want  India  ;  but  you  are  apt  to  forget  one  equally  im- 
portant point,  which  is,  that  some  day  the  natives  of 
that  country  may  wish  to  govern  themselves.  You 
are  doing  everything  you  possibly  can  to  teach  the 
inhabitants  their  own  strength.     You  establish  schools  ; 


90      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

you  educate  the  people  ;  they  read  your  newspapers. 
But  the  day  will  come  when  some  agitators  will  set 
these  thinking  masses  in  motion  ;  and  then  what  force 
have  you  to  oppose  them  ?  If  ever  there  was  a  nation 
determined  to  commit  suicide,  it  is  England.  She  holds 
India,  as  she  herself  allows,  by  the  force  of  arms,  and 
yet  she  is  doing  everything  in  her  power  to  induce  the 
conquered  country  to  throw  off  the  yoke." 

Later,  Burnaby  met  some  old  friends  who  had  settled 
in  the  city.  "  Get  to  Khiva  !  "  said  one.  "  You  might 
as  well  try  to  get  in  the  moon.  The  Russians  will  not 
openly  stop  you,  but  they  will  put  the  screw  upon  the 
English  Foreign  Office,  and  force  the  latter  to  do  so." 
Burnaby  next  called  upon  Mr.  Schuyler  the  United 
States  Secretary  of  Legation  at  St.  Petersburg,  a  gentle- 
man who  had  visited  Kasala  and  Bokhara — being  the 
only  diplomatist  the  Russians  had  ever  permitted  to 
travel  in  their  Eastern  possessions  ;*  and  then  he  wrote 
to  General  Milutin,  asking  permission  to  go  to  India  via 
Khiva,  Merve  and  Cabal.  The  reply  came  that  the 
commandants  in  Russian  Asia  had  received  orders  to  aid 
him  in  his  journey  through  the  territory  under  their 
control ;  but  Burnaby  could  judge  by  the  tenor  of  the 
letter,  which  contained  hints  of  the  dangers  to  be  faced, 
that  the  general  little  relished  giving  this  permission. 

Having  made  his  final  preparations  for  the  journey  by 
purchasing  extra  clothing  and  providing  himself  with  a 
money-belt,  Burnaby  took  train  for  Sizeran.  At  every 
stopping  place  he  and  his  fellow  travellers  did  their  best 
to  keep  out  the  cold  with  glasses  of  scalding  tea  drawn 
from  huge  samovars,  or  brass  urns.  Of  this  welcome 
liquor  there  was  abundance  everywhere,  and  things 
would  not  have  been  so  very  bad  had  the  peasantry 
been  more  cleanly  in  their  habits,  but  in  Russia,  in  those 
days  at  any  rate,  superstition  and  dirt  were  twin  bre- 
thren. 

*  See  A  Ride  to  Khiva  and  Schuyler's  Turkestan.     Burnaby  quotes  from 
Schuyler. 


A    RIDE    TO    KHIVA  91 

On  stepping  out  of  the  railway  terminus  at  Sizeran, 
Burnaby  and  a  fellow  traveller  hired  a  troika,  or  three- 
horse  sleigh,  and  as  the  journey  promised  to  be  a  bitterly 
cold  one,  he  put  on  three  pairs  of  the  thickest  stockings 
and  drew  over  them  a  pair  of  fur-lined  low  shoes  inserted 
into  leather  goloshes,  and  over  them  again  a  pair  of 
enormous  cloth  boots,  which  reached  to  the  thigh. 
He  enveloped  his  body  with  flannel,  a  thick  wadded  waist- 
coat and  a  coat,  and  a  huge  shuba  or  fur  pelisse  reaching 
to  the  heels,  while  a  fur  cap  with  ends  that  tied  under  the 
throat  defended  his  head.  Of  huge  proportions  even  in 
ordinary  dress,  Burnaby  was  now  a  giant  indeed.  To 
guard  themselves  against  wolves  both  he  and  his  com- 
panion carried  revolvers  ;  and  then,  in  a  sleigh  drawn 
by  three  horses  abreast,  the  middle  one  being  in  a  huge 
wooden  head  collar,  bright  with  various  colours,  they 
started  off  at  a  brisk  pace,  while  the  sleigh-bells  jingled 
merrilv. 

The  cold  was  frightful,  and  by  the  time  they  reached 
one  of  their  stopping-places — a  cottage  situated  in  a 
straggling  village — their  provisions  were  frozen  hard. 
It  took  ten  minutes  to  thaw  the  bread,  but  when  Burn- 
aby found  himself  fingering  a  large  glass  of  steaming 
amber-coloured  tea,  with  a  thin  slice  of  lemon  floating  on 
the  top,  he  began  to  understand  the  advantages  of  having 
been  thoroughlv  uncomfortable.  "It  is  onlv  after 
having  experienced  a  certain  amount  of  misery,"  he 
soliloquised,  "  that  you  can  thoroughly  appreciate  what 
real  enjoyment  is."  The  foulness  of  the  air  in  the  un- 
ventilated  room  in  which  he  had  to  pass  the  night, 
and  the  uproar  caused  by  pedlars  and  other  folk  in  the 
adjoining  department,  were  trying  enough,  but  he 
managed  to  obtain  a  little  sleep.  At  sunrise  next  morn- 
ing he  started  off  again,  but  was  from  time  to  time  hin- 
dered by  snowdrifts,  some  of  which  were  ten  feet  in 
height.  Arrived  at  Orenberg,  he  called  on  a  Tartar 
gentleman,  who  volunteered  information  respecting  the 
road,  but  told  him  that  the  severity  of  the  winter  would 


92      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

make  success  impossible.  "  The  Syr  Darya  and  the 
Amou  Darya,"  he  said,  "  are  frozen  up,  and  you  will  have 
to  cover  on  horseback  five  hundred  versts  of  snow- 
covered  steppes,  so  I  advise  you  to  give  up  the  idea  al- 
together. If  you  are  unwilling  to  do  so,  you  had  better 
go  home  and  come  back  in  summer."  Nothing,  however, 
could  turn  Burnaby  from  his  plan. 

The  next  business  was  to  hire  a  servant,  and  after 
considerable  trouble  he  secured  a  Tartar,  who  required 
twenty-five  roubles  a  month. 

"  Perhaps,  One  of  Noble  Birth,"  said  the  fellow,  "  you 
would  not  object  to  give  me  two  months'  wages*  on 
account.  I  have  an  aged  mother,  and  should  like  to 
leave  a  little  money  to  support  her  during  my  absence." 

Filial  affection  being,  in  Burnaby' s  opinion,  a  com- 
mendable trait,  he  cheerfully  complied  with  the  request. 

Next  morning  as  the  man  did  not  put  in  an  appearance, 
Burnaby  made  enquiries. 

"  Perhaps,"  observed  the  head  waiter,  "  you  gave  him 
some  money." 

"  Yes,"  said  Burnaby,  "  for  his  bedridden  mother." 

The  waiter  laughed  till  the  tears  came.  "  His  bed- 
ridden mother,  indeed  !  You  will  not  see  him  again, 
until  he  has  spent  the  money.  He  has  gone  to  kootit 
(to  drink  and  the  rest)." 

And  so  it  proved,  for  late  in  the  day  the  specious  rogue 
was  caught  in  a  tavern  in  the  company  of  two  shameless 
women  ;  but  Burnaby  recovered  half  his  money,  and 
considered  himself  fortunate  to  get  even  that. 

Eventually  a  valuable,  if  salacious  servant,  was  secured 
in  the  person  of  a  Tartar  dwarf  named  Nazar,  and  Burn- 
aby lost  no  time  in  setting  off.  The  sleigh  had  not  pro- 
ceeded many  miles,  however,  before  they  lost  their  way, 
and  they  were  obliged  to  spend  a  weary  and  what 
seemed  an  interminable  night  in  the  snow.   Next  morning, 

*  A  rouble  is  equivalent  to  3s.  3d.,  therefore  two  months'  wages  would  be 
£8  as.  6d. 


A    RIDE    TO    KHIVA  93 

however,  after  being  dug  out  by  a  jolly  farmer  and  his 
labourers,  they  were  able  to  enter  Ursk. 

Here  there  was  a  difficulty  in  obtaining  fresh  horses, 
but  Nazar  took  the  matter  philosophically.  "It  is 
comfortable  and  warm,"  he  observed,  looking  at  the 
stove.  "  We  will  sleep  here,  little  father  ;  eat,  till  we 
fill  our  clothes,  and  continue  our  journey  to-morrow." 

It  presently  transpired,  however,  that  Nazar,  in  spite 
of  his  being  a  married  man,  had  lost  his  heart  "to  an 
Ursk  siren  "  with  blue  eyes.  Consequently  when  Burn- 
aby  declared  his  intention  of  setting  off  within  an  hour, 
Nazar  looked  sad,  forlorn,  and  injured. 

After  leaving  Karabootak,  Burnaby,  instead  of  putting 
on  his  thick  gloves,  took  his  seat  in  the  sleigh,  with  each 
hand  folded  in  the  sleeve  of  its  fellow.  On  the  way  he 
had  the  misfortune  to  fall  asleep,  and  his  hands  slipped 
from  their  warm  covering  on  to  the  sides  of  the  sleigh. 
He  woke  with  a  feeling  of  intense  pain  and  found,  to  his 
consternation,  that  they  were  frost-bitten.  Nazar's  efforts 
to  restore  the  circulation  bv  rubbing  them  with  snow, 
proved  futile.  The  next  station  was  seven  miles  off, 
and  the  devoted  little  Tartar  drove  for  dear  life.  The 
perspiration  stood  on  Burnaby's  forehead,  his  body  burnt 
like  fire.  It  seemed  as  though  the  seven  miles  would  never 
be  traversed,  but  at  last  they  reached  the  welcome  sta- 
tion, and  three  Cossacks,  instantly  grasping  the  situation, 
drew  off  Burnaby's  coat  and  plunged  his  arms  to  the 
shoulder  in  a  tub  of  ice  and  water.  But  he  felt  no  sensa- 
tion. 

"  Brother,"  said  one  of  the  Cossacks,  shaking  his  head, 
"  it  is  a  bad  job,  you  will  lose  your  hands." 

"  They  will  certainly  drop  off,"  remarked  another, 
"  unless  we  can  get  back  the  circulation." 

They  next  procured  some  naphtha,  and  having  re- 
moved Burnaby's  arms  from  water,  they  proceeded  to 
rub  them  with  the  spirit.  They  rubbed  till  the  skin 
peeled  off,  and  at  last  Burnaby  noticed  a  faint  sensation 
like  tickling  at  the  elbow  joints. 


94      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

"  Does  it  hurt  ?  "  asked  one  of  the  Cossacks. 

"  A  little,"  replied  Burnaby. 

"Capital,"  said  the  Cossack.  "Rub  it  hard  as  you 
can,  brothers,"  and  after  continuing  till  the  arm  was 
almost  flayed,  they  suddenly  thrust  it  again  into  the  ice 
and  water.     Then  the  pain  was  acute. 

"Good,"  said  the  Cossacks.  "The  more  it  hurts 
the  better  chance  you  have  of  saving  your  hands."  And 
after  a  short  time  thev  let  Burnabv  take  his  hands  out 
of  the  tub. 

"  You  are  fortunate,  little  father,"  said  the  elder  of  the 
Cossacks.  "  If  it  had  not  been  for  the  spirit  your  hands 
would  have  dropped  off." 

Rough,  kind-hearted  fellows  were  these  poor  soldiers  ; 
and  when  Burnaby  forced  on  the  elder  of  them  a  present 
for  himself  and  his  comrades,  the  old  soldier  simply 
added,  "  Are  we  not  all  brothers  when  in  misfortune  ? 
Would  you  not  have  helped  me  if  I  had  been  in  a  like 
predicament  ?  " 

On  arriving  at  Kasala  Burnaby  visited  a  Kirghiz 
settlement  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  and  its  inhabit- 
ants were  as  much  interested  in  him  as  he  was  in  them. 
Having  heard  that  the  Kirghis  women  were  beautiful, 
he  took  particular  notice  of  them,  but  he  came  to  the 
conclusion  that  whatever  good  looks  they  had,  were 
spoilt  by  the  breadth  of  face  and  the  size  of  the  mouth. 

The  Kirghis,  it  seems,  unlike  most  other  oriental 
races,  have  the  privilege  of  seeing  the  girls  they  wish  to 
marry,  and  there  is  a  good  deal  of  haggling  respecting  the 
price. 

"  She  has  sheep's  eyes  and  is  lovely,"  the  match- 
making mother  would  say,  pointing  to  her  daughter. 

"  Yes,"  would  perhaps  be  the  reply,  "  she  certainly  has 
sheep's  eyes,  but  she  is  not  moon-faced,  and  as  for  her 
hips — well  she  has  no  hips  whatever  !  Let  us  say  two 
hundred  roubles." 

And  so  the  bidding  would  go  on. 


A    RIDE    TO    KHIVA  95 

Bumaby  was  anxious  to  leave  Kasala  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble, for  he  was  in  daily  dread  of  being  stopped  by  orders 
from  St.  Petersburg  or  London. 

That  the  journey  would  be  a  terribly  cold  one  he  was 
well  aware,  for  the  thermometer  had  already  sunk  to 
forty  degrees  below  zero,   thus  recording 
seventy-two   degrees   of   frost  ;    and   cases    30—  Across  the 
of  men  being  frozen  to  death  were   fre-  Khiva, 

quently  reported.  He  left  Kasala  with 
his  little  Tartar  servant,  a  Turkoman  camel  driver,  a 
guide,  three  camels,  and  two  horses.  The  guide  rode 
one  horse,  Burnaby  the  other,  while  Nazar  bestraddled 
a  huge  corn  sack  balanced  by  a  bundle  of  firewood, 
which  had  been  placed  on  the  tallest  camel. 

"  Please  God,"  observed  Nazar,  looking  down  from 
the  camel's  back,  "  we  shall  not  be  frozen  to  death." 

To  which  Burnaby  replied  devoutly  "  Inshallah." 

For  provisions  they  carried  two  large  iron  buckets 
of  frozen  stchi  or  cabbage  soup  and  minced  meat,  and 
twenty-eight  pounds  of  meat  in  the  joint,  not  forgetting 
a  hatchet  for  chopping  it  up. 

The  Syr  Darya  being  frozen,  they  passed  it  without 
difficulty,  and  all  would  have  gone  smoothly  but  for  the 
camel  driver,  who  was  careless  and  smashed  the  boxes, 
etc.,  and  who,  when  remonstrated  with,  merely  ob- 
served "  It  is  the  will  of  God." 

Burnaby  soon  found  out  that  the  best  way  to  stop 
these  breakages  was  to  give  the  fellow  a  hiding,  and 
after  doing  so  he  observed,  ' '  Brother,  it  was  the  will  of 
God.  You  must  not  complain  ;  it  was  your  destiny  to 
break  my  property  and  mine  to  beat  you.  We  neither 
of  us  could  help  it,  praise  be  to  Allah." 

Most  of  the  travelling  was  done  during  the  night,  as 
camels  feed  only  in  the  daytime,  and  the  little  caravan 
covered  about  thirty-seven  miles  every  twenty-four 
hours.  The  travellers  usually  halted  at  sunset,  when 
they  would  put  up  a  kibitha  or  circular  tent,  made  of 

G2 


96      LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

rods  and  cloth,  raised  as  a  protection  against  the  pitilessly 
bleak  east  winds  ;  and  they  generally  started  again  at 
midnight.  The  cold  made  them  ravenous  ;  indeed 
it  was  no  uncommon  event  for  the  camel-driver  to  eat 
a  four-pound  loaf  at  a  sitting.  Occasionally  he  would 
bury  his  head  in  the  stchi  pot,  and  suck  up  the  half  tepid 
liquor,  much  to  the  indignation  of  Nazar,  who  would  re- 
mark angrily  that  this  method  of  eating  was  not  fair  ; 
at  the  same  time  offering  a  spoon.  But  the  Turkoman 
used  gratefully  to  decline  it,  with  the  observation  that 
the  soup  tasted  better  with  one's  head  in  the  pot.  Some- 
times he  relieved  the  tedium  of  the  way  by  singing  a  song 
descriptive  of  his  love  for  mutton,  but  he  had  his  virtues 
too,  for  he  was  ever  ready  to  give  information  concern- 
ing Turkoman  manners  and  customs.  He  told  Burnaby 
that  Turkoman  marriages  are  not  always  arranged  by 
purchase.  If  the  girl  is  pretty,  a  more  original  method 
is  popular.  All  the  eligible  young  men  of  the  tribe 
assemble  on  horseback,  and  the  girl  being  allowed  her 
choice  of  mounts,  gallops  away  from  the  suitors,  who 
follow  her.  She  avoids  those  whom  she  dislikes,  and 
seeks  to  throw  herself  in  the  way  of  the  one  in  favour. 
The  moment  she  is  caught  she  becomes  the  wife  of  the 
captor.  Further  ceremonies  are  dispensed  with,  and 
the  happy  husband  leads  her  to  his  tent. 

"  What  do  you  pay  in  your  country  for  a  wife  ?  " 
enquired  the  guide. 

"  We  pay  nothing,"  replied  Burnaby;  "  we  ask  the 
girl,  and  if  she  says  '  yes,'  and  her  parents  do  not  refuse, 
we  marry  her." 

"  But  if  the  girl  does  not  like  you,  if  she  hits  3011  on 
the  head  with  her  whip,  or  gallops  away  when  you  ride 
up  to  her  side,  what  do  you  do  in  that  case  ?  ' 

"  Why,  we  do  not  marry  her." 

This  puzzled  the  guide  very  much,  and  he  became 
lost  in  meditation. 

As  they  proceeded  the  cold  became  more   frightful 


ORB- 


fiBUftG 


OOCENTCH. 


CAPTAIN    BURNABY'S    RIDE    TO    KHIVA, 
November,   1875. 


A    RIDE    TO    KHIVA  99 

than  ever  ;  the  icy  winds  cut  like  razors,  and  it  was  peri- 
lous to  remove  their  gloves,  even  for  a  moment. 

At  a  place  called  Karakol  Burnaby's  guide  was  in- 
sulted by  a  Khivan  traveller,  and  a  light  ensued  in  which 
each  seriously  damaged  the  other's  clothes.  Up  to  this 
point  Burnaby  did  not  interfere,  but  on  noticing  that 
the  Khivans  were  beginning  nervously  to  finger  their 
knives,  he  promptly  drew  a  pistol,  causing  them  to  fall 
back,  with  the  result  that  the  two  opponents  were  left  to 
settle  their  difference  by  themselves.  When  they  were 
tired  of  fighting,  each  sat  on  his  haunches  and  aspersed 
the  reputations  of  his  enemy's  female  relations  ;  but 
presently  Burnaby  walked  up  to  them,  and  after  saying 
A  man  (peace),  he  took  hold  of  their  wrists  and  forcibly 
made  them  shake  hands.  Salam  aaleikom  (peace  be 
with  you)  at  last,  said  the  guide. 

Aaleikom  salam  (with  you  be  peace),  was  the  answer, 
and,  their  quarrel  composed,  the  combatants  separated. 

On  arriving  at  Kalenderhana,  Burnaby  learnt  that  he 
could  not  enter  the  town  of  Khiva  without  first  having 
obtained  the  Khan's  permission  ;  and  that  a  letter  should 
be  written  to  that  sovereign  and  sent  on  in  advance. 
As  Burnaby  did  not  know  the  Tartar  language,  and  as  he 
was  uncertain  whether  it  would  be  wise  to  employ  Arabic, 
he  availed  himself  of  the  services  of  a  moullah, 
who  enjoyed  the  reputation  of  being  able  to  "  write 
things  so  soft  and  sweet  that  they  were  like  sounds  of 
sheep  bleating  in  the  distance."  The  country  from 
Kalenderhana  onwards,  proved  to  be  excellently  cultiv- 
ated, and  after  a  short  march  Burnaby  reached  the  world- 
renowned  Amou  Darya,  the  mighty  Oxus  of  Tamerlane 
and  Alexander,  which,  even  from  his  youthful  days  at 
Bedford,  when  he  had  pored  over  Gibbon  and  Plutarch, 
it  had  been  his  ambition  to  visit.  As  they  crossed  the 
river,  for  it  was  frozen,  they  met  numbers  of  arbas  or  two- 
wheeled  carts  and  Khivans  in  long  red  robes  and  black 
lambskin  hats,  who  bestrode  sleek  and  handsome  horses, 
ambling  under  housings  studded  with  jewels.   Every  man 


100  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

as  he  passed  gave  the  salutation  Salam  aaleikon  ;  and 
every  member  of  Burnaby's  train  replied  politely 
Aaleikon  salam.  After  passing  through  a  country  of  gar- 
dens and  orchards,  they  reached  the  town  of  Oogentch, 
where  they  found  the  bazaar  stalls  loaded  with  grapes, 
dried  fruits  and  melons.  When  Burnaby  entered  a 
barber's  shop  to  be  shaved,  the  street  fronting  it  suddenly 
became  completely  blocked  up  by  a  curious  crowd. 
The  people  behind,  who  were  not  able  to  see  as  well  as 
they  wished,  called  out  to  those  who  hid  the  performance 
from  view  and  made  them  sit  down,  so  that  everyone 
might  be  able  to  enjoy  the  spectacle — for  they  had  never 
before  seen  an  Englishman  in  the  hands  of  a  barber. 
The  razor  being  blunt,  it  tore  out  the  hairs  it  was  unable 
to  cut,  and  this  made  Burnaby  wince.  The  people  were 
delighted.  They  were  not  prepared  for  this  feature  in  the 
entertainment,  and  they  roared  with  laughter. 

As  Burnaby  neared  Khiva  he  passed  through  a  ceme- 
tery full  of  fantastic  tombs  made  of  dried  clay,  orna- 
mented with  flags  ;  and  next  morning  he  encountered 
on  the  road  the  messenger  whom  he  had  despatched 
with  his  letter  to  the  Khan.  The  man  was  accompanied 
by  two  Khivan  nobles,  one  of  whom  made  a  courteous 
salute,  and  declared  that  his  Majesty  the  Khan  had  sent 
him  forward  to  bid  Burnaby  welcome,  and  to  conduct 
him  into  the  city.  Thus  he  had  accomplished  his  end. 
The  impossible  had  happened,  as  it  generally  does  with 
the  resolute. 

Although  Khiva  was  so  near,  it  was  almost  entirelv 

hidden  by  foliage,   but  presently  some  richly  painted 

minarets  and   high  domes  could  be   seen 

31— Khiva  and    above  the  tree  tops.     On  each  side  of  the 

its  Khan.     way     Burnaby    noticed    walled    orchards 

and     avenues     of     mulberry     trees,     the 

beauty  of  which  put  him  into  ecstasies.     Nor  was   he 

singular  in  his  praise  of  this  neighbourhood.     To  Vam- 

bery,  who  visited  the  city  in  1863,  the  environs  of  Khiva 

seemed  a  poet's  dream.     A  more  lovely  spot,  even  after 


A    RIDE    TO    KHIVA  101 

he  had  visited  the  most  seductive  pleasure  resorts  of 
Europe,  he  had  never  seen,  and  he  thought  that  if  the 
Persian  poets  had  tuned  their  lyres  there,  they  would 
have  found  a  more  worthy  theme  than  in  the  "  horrid 
wastes  "  of  their  native  land.  Burnaby  describes  the 
city  as  oblong  in  form  and  surrounded  by  two  walls, 
protected  by  sixteen  useless  guns.  The  outer  wall, 
which  was  of  brick  and  clay,  might  have  been  fifty  feet 
high,  but  it  was  sadly  out  of  repair  ;  and  four  wooden 
gates  barred  approach  from  the  principal  points  of  the 
compass.  The  space  between  the  walls,  which  had  been 
transformed  into  a  cattle  market,  displayed  the  usual 
accompaniment  of  such  places  in  oriental  cities — namely, 
a  gallows.  He  judged  the  population  of  the  town  to  be 
35,000,  and  he  tells  us  that  the  streets  were  broad  and 
clean,  the  better  houses  being  of  polished  bricks  and 
coloured  tiles  ;  and  that  the  schools,  nine  in  number, 
were  constructed  with  huge  coloured  domes,  and  orna- 
mented with  arabesques.  As  at  Oogentch,  the  people 
gathered  inquisitively  round  him,  but  they  were  beaten 
off  by  the  whips  of  his  escort.  When  he  arrived  at  his 
conductor's  house  he  was  regaled  with  grapes,  melons, 
and  other  fruit.  His  manner  of  eating  with  a  knife  and 
fork,  however,  astonished  the  Khivans,  and  one  of  them 
tried  to  imitate  the  proceeding,  with  the  result  that  he 
ran  the  fork  into  his  cheek,  amid  the  loud  laughter  of  the 
others. 

On  the  following  afternoon  he  went  to  pay  his  respects 
to  the  Khan,  whose  palace  was  a  large  building  covered 
with  bright  coloured  tiles.  The  Khan,  whose  guard 
consisted  of  forty  men  armed  with  scimiters,  was  reclin- 
ing against  some  cushions  and  seated  on  a  Persian  rug, 
while  a  circular  hearth  filled  with  burning  charcoal 
glowed  at  his  feet.  He  was  five  feet  ten  in  height,  and 
strongly  built,  with  a  broad  massive  face,  coal  black 
beard  and  moustache,  and  an  enormous  mouth  with  white 
teeth.  A  jewelled  sword  lay  by  his  side.  He  looked 
twenty-eight,  and  he  had  a  genial  smile. 


102  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

Over  a  cup  of  tea,  and  by  aid  of  various  interpreters, 
a  curious  conversation  then  ensued.  The  Khan  wanted 
to  know  whether  Englishmen  and  Germans  were  of  the 
same  nation  ;  and  in  order  to  explain,  Burnaby  unfolded 
a  map  of  the  countries  between  England  and  India. 
The  Khan,  putting  his  hand  on  India,  observed  that 
India  was  large,  but  not  so  large  as  Russia,  which  re- 
quired nearly  two  hands  to  cover  it  ;  but  Burnaby  ex- 
plained that  extent  of  territory  does  not  make  up  the 
strength  of  a  nation,  and  that  India  contained  three  times 
as  many  inhabitants  as  the  whole  Russian  Empire. 
The  Crimean  war  was  discussed,  and  the  Khan  said  he 
had  been  told  that  England  feared  Russia  ;  but  Burnaby 
declared  the  statement  to  be  false,  that  the  English 
had  beaten  the  Russians,  and  could  do  so  again — 
pointing  out,  however,  at  the  same  time,  that  the  Eng- 
lish, being  a  peaceful  nation,  never  wished  to  interfere 
with  a  neighbour,  so  long  as  that  neighbour  did  not  inter- 
fere with  them. 

"The  Russians  will  advance,"  said  the  Khan,  'to 
Bokhara,  and  so  on  to  Merve  and  Herat.  You  will  have 
to  fight  some  dav  whether  vour  Government  likes  it  or 
not  " — and  then  he  aired  his  salient  grievance,  that  of 
being  obliged  to  pay  tribute  to  Russia. 

Burnaby  could  not  sufficiently  admire  the  Khan's 
gardens  with  their  vines,  apple,  pear  and  cherry  trees, 
and  cool  walks  to  protect  the  ladies  of  the  harem  from 
the  burning  sun.  He  visited  the  town  jail,  where  he 
found  only  two  prisoners,  who,  for  having  assaulted  a 
woman,  were  condemned  to  sit  with  their  necks  in  chains, 
and  their  feet  in  stocks  ;  and  also  the  principal  school, 
where  a  number  of  little  folk  were  squalling  round  a 
moullah  and  learning  the  Koran.  In  short  Burnaby 
gives  a  very  attractive  picture  of  Khiva  and  its  mild 
ruler,  who  was  a  remarkable  contrast  to  the  callous  and 
truculent  Khan,  his  immediate  predecessor,  from  whose 
lips,  according  to  Vambery,*  fell  almost  daily  on  the  ears 

*  Vambery  visited  Khiva  in  1863.     See  his  Travels  in  Central  Asia. 


"  FRED." 

By  special  permission  or  the  Editor  of  Vanity    Fail 


A    RIDE    TO    KHIVA  105 

of  some  poor  trembling  wretch  or  other,  the  fatal  words 
Alib  barin  [away  with  him  (to  torture  and  death)  ]  ;  and 
it  is  only  fair  to  assume  that  the  Russian  advance — 
though  Burnaby  would  never  say  a  good  word  for  the 
Russians — had  something  to  do  with  the  improved  condi- 
tion of  things. 

Burnaby  then  arranged  to  proceed  to  Bokhara,  whence 
he  hoped  to  reach  Persia,  but  in  the  midst  of  his  prepara- 
tions two  strangers  arrived  from  the  Russian  Com- 
mandant at  Petro-Alexandrovsk  bearing  a  message  for 
him.  Its  contents  were  to  the  effect  that  a  telegram 
awaited  him  at  the  fort,  and  that  he  was  required  to  go 
there  to  receive  it.  Little  as  he  relished  the  order — for  order 
it  virtuallv  was — nothing  remained  but  to  obev  :  so  hav- 
ing  made  some  purchases  at  the  bazaar,  and  said  farewell 
to  the  amiable  Khan,  who  presented  him  with  a  handsome 
robe,  Burnaby  turned  his  face  to  Petro-Alexandrovsk. 
There  he  discovered  that  the  telegram  had  come  from 
H.R.H.  the  Duke  of  Cambridge,  the  Field  Marshal 
Commander-in-Chief,  who  required  his  immediate  re- 
turn to  European  Russia.  The  document  had  been  await- 
ing him  several  days,  so  had  he  gone  first  to  Petro- 
Alexandrovsk,  he  would  never  have  seen  Khiva.  As 
there  was  no  help  for  it,  Burnaby  at  once  began  prepara- 
tions for  returning  home  the  way  he  had  come,  namely, 
by  the  terrible  Khivan  desert,  with  the  cold  at  from 
30°  to  40°  below  zero.  When,  however,  the  Russian 
commandant  joked  him  on  his  being  prevented  from 
carrying  out  his  plan  in  its  entirety,  he  replied  "  Any- 
how I  have  seen  Khiva  " — and  so  he  had — having  per- 
formed one  of  the  most  remarkable  journeys  ever  made 
by  an  Englishman. 

A  day  or  two  later  Burnaby  and  his  little  caravan 
commenced  their  journey  back  over  the  frightful,  icy 
desert.  On  the  hardships  of  that  journey,  as  they  re- 
sembled what  he  had  already  endured,  we  shall  not  dwell. 
After  passing  Kasala,  he  was  the  means  of  doing  a  small 
service  to  a   pretty  Kirghiz  widow  ;   and  through  the 


106  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

medium  of  Nazar,  he  entered  into  conversation  with  her 
and  tried  to  pay  her  some  compliments.  Nazar' s  ideas 
of  poetry,  however,  were  limited  to  songs  about  the 
beauty  of  a  sheep  and  the  delights  of  roast  mutton, 
so  Burnaby  doubted  not  that  when  he  observed  with 
emotion  that  she  was  the  most  beautiful  of  her  sex, 
Nazar  translated  it,  "  Thou  art  lovelier  than  a  sheep  with 
a  fat  tail." 

At  Sizeran  Burnaby  parted  from  his  little  Tartar, 
and  after  an  uneventful  journey  across  Europe,  he  event- 
ually reached  London,  where,  as  his  fame  had  preceded 
him,  he  found  himself  the  hero  of  the  hour. 

He  at  once  set  to  work  on  the  story  of  his  travels, 
which  was  sent  to  the  Press  with  the  title  of  A  Ride  to 
Khiva*  and  issued  by  the  publishing  house  of  Cassell 
in  the  autumn  of  1876.  It  was  received  with  a  chorus  of 
approval.  He  had  performed  a  daring  adventure ; 
he  had  written  a  book  that  met  with  acceptance  ;  he 
was  intoxicated  with  happiness. 

Within  a  few  months  it  was  in  its  eleventh  edition  ; 
and  certainly  it  deserved  all  its  success  ;  for  a  more 
concise,  cheery  and  brightly  written  book  of  travel, 
has  rarely  left  the  Press. 

Naturally  Burnaby's  portrait  appeared  everywhere, 
and  he  became  the  subject  of  a  capital  cartoonf  in  Vanity 
Fair,  which  we  are  permitted  to  reproduce.  Of  this  pic- 
ture he  said  facetiously  in  a  letter,  "  I  don't  like  it.  It 
makes  me  as  ugly  as  I  really  am.  The  artist  reminds  me  of 
a  Chinaman  who  sketched  old  K.  The  admiral  complained 
that  the  likeness  was  not  flattering.  The  Chinaman 
replied,  '  How  can  handsome  face  make  when  handsome 
face  no  have  got  !  '  I  am  like  K  ;  I  wish  for  a  little 
more  flattery." 

*  From  which  we  have  quoted. 

f  The  whitened  chin  in  it  was  characteristic  of  him.  He  always  powder- 
ed his  chin  after  shaving,  in  order  to  make  it  comport  with  his  pallid  face. 


AN    ASCENT    WITH     Mr.    LUCY, 
25th  August,   1876. 

The  figures  are  Mr.  Wright  (extreme  left),  Burnaby  seated  on  car, 
Mr.  Lucy  in  the  car,  Captain  Colvile  standing  on  car. 

From  the  Strand  Magazine. 


CHAPTER    VII. 

february  1876  november  1876. 

Balloon  Ascents  from  the  Crystal  Palace. 

Burnaby  had  not  been  home  many  weeks  before  the 
insipid  delights  of  English  Society  began  to  pall  upon 
32— Ascent  with  him.     He  found  life  scarcely  worth  living 

Capt.  Colvile  m  a  countrv  where   a  man  goes   to  bed 
and 
Mr. H.W.Lucy  regularly    under    cover,    dines    at    stated 

25th  Aug.,  1867.  nours,  and  has  his  morning  and  evening- 
newspapers  ;  so  he  looked  round  to  see  how  he  could  add 
a  zest  to  it,  and  then  having  turned  to  his  old  delight, 
aeronautics,  he  arranged  to  make  an  ascent  from  the 
Crystal  Palace  with  two  friends — Mr.  H.  W.  Lucy*  and 
Captain  (afterwards  Sir)  Henry  Colvile, t  in  a  balloon 
belonging  to  Mr.  Wright.  On  the  appointed  day  Mr. 
Wright  having  made  all  necessary  preparations,  Mr.  Lucy 
slipped  into  the  car  and  sat  down  at  the  bottom  "  with 
his  head  thrust  through  the  cording  like  a  chicken  in  a 
wicker  basket,"  and  the  others  followed  him.  "  Burn- 
aby," observes  Mr.  Lucy,  "  had  every  qualification  for  an 
aeronaut  except  moderate  size.  No  one  except  those 
who  have  made  an  aerial  journey  with  him,  can  imagine 
the  curiously  complete  way  in  which  his  legs  pervaded 
the  car."  As,  however,  Burnaby  thought  well  to  increase 
the  danger  of  this  voyage  by  sitting,  not  in  the  car, 
as  it  careered  through  space,  but  on  the  edge,  his  long 
legs  were  less  troublesome  to  his  friends  than  they  would 
otherwise  have  been.  A  south  west  wind  carried  the 
balloon  at  a  rate  of  forty  miles  an  hour,  and  when  the 

*Toby  M.P.  of  Punch. 

f  Killed  in  a  motor  accident  1907. 

(l°9)  W 


110  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

voyagers  were  well  on  their  journey,  Burnaby  revealed 
the  secret  wish  of  his  heart,  namely,  that  they  could  get 
a  good  north  breeze  which  would  whisk  them  to  France. 

"  This  westerly  wind,"  he  said,  "  will  take  us  into  the 
German  Ocean.  But  it  will  change  again,  and  we  shall 
have  the  usual  journey  across  Essex." 

By  and  by  they  saw  something  shining  below  like 
molten  silver. 

"  The  sea  !  "  cried  Burnaby. 

But  it  was  only  the  mouth  of  the  Thames,  and,  as  he 
had  prophesied,  the  balloon  presently  took  its  course 
over  Essex. 

Then  casting  down  their  gaze,  a  curious  sight  presented 
itself.  They  were  travelling  in  bright  sunshine,  and 
below  them  extended  a  broad  sea  of  fleecy  cloud,  on 
which  was  pictured  the  shadow  of  the  balloon,  with  the 
heads  of  the  occupants  as  clearly  traced  as  if  it  had 
been  a  colossal  photograph. 

"  It  would  be  worth  a  much  more  perilous  journey," 
said  Mr.  Lucy,  "  to  see  this  curious  picture." 

"  But  it's  confoundedly  hot,"  observed  Captain  Col- 
vile. 

"  Yes,"  said  Burnaby,  taking  off  his  gigantic  coat, 
and  hanging  it  on  the  anchor  as  if  he  had  been  in  a 
mess-room,  ' '  still  there  is  one  comfort  in  being  above  the 
clouds,  namely,  that  a  man  can  sit  in  public  in  his  shirt 
sleeves." 

The  north  wind  that  Burnaby  had  so  earnestly  desired 
did  not  choose  to  oblige  him,  consequently  when  the 
cloud  had  been  cleared  and  fields  and  villages  came  in 
view,  he  gave  the  gas  pipe  a  turn  in  order  to  descend. 
Suddenly  the  earth  began  to  rise,  the  fields  assumed 
larger  dimensions,  and  animals,  which  looked  like  mice, 
proved  to  be  cattle.  He  then  threw  out  the  anchor,  and 
the  balloon  rose  about  a  hundred  feet.  But  it  is  one 
thing  to  throw  out  an  anchor  and  another  to  make  it 
bite.  This  particular  anchor  amused  itself  by  dancing 
about  on  the  hard  earth,   grubbing  up  grass,   passing 


BALLOON    ASCENTS  111 

through  hedges,  and  skilfully  avoiding  anything  that 
offered  a  firm  clutch.  There  was  now  an  element  of 
danger,  and  in  consequence  Burnaby's  spirits  straightway 
mounted  high.  Presently  they  neared  a  wood,  and  into 
it  went  the  balloon,  crashing  against  a  tree,  tearing  a 
large  strip  out  of  the  silk,  and  impregnating  the  air 
with  the  smell  of  the  escaping  gas.  But  the  anchor, 
though  it  had  a  thousand  opportunities,  still  refused  to 
grip.  It  carefully  avoided  every  eligible  tree,  while  it 
grubbed  fiercely  at  every  weed  and  feeble  flower  stalk. 
The  wind  hurried  the  balloon  from  tree  to  tree,  making- 
fresh  gashes  in  the  canvas,  and  threatening  to  leave  not 
a  ras'  behind.  Finallv  it  descended  into  an  elm  ;  and 
Burnaby  and  Mr.  Lucy,  having  dropped  to  the  ground, 
Captain  Colvile  loosened  the  folds  of  the  balloon,  and 
lowered  both  envelope  and  car  into  their  arms. 

At  midnight  Captain  Colvile  met  Burnaby  again 
at  the  Queen's  Ball  at  Buckingham  Palace. 

"  That  was  a  capital  anchor,"  observed  Burnaby, 
"  I  am  going  to  buy  it  from  Wright  and  keep  it  for  future 
balloon  journeys." 

A  little  later  Burnaby,  with  a  view  to  various  scientific 

experiments,  decided  to   make   another   aerial   voyage, 

and  in  the  middle  of  September  he  wrote 

..     „.  .   ,  ,         „  „  r  33—    Ascents 

to  Mr.  Wright  as  follows  :  with  Mr. 

Regents  Park  Barracks,  N.W.,  Wri«ht  and 

others 

Saturday,  September  16th  (1876). 
In  the  event  of  your  having  a  balloon  ascent  from  the 
Crystal  Palace  on  Tuesday  next,  I  should  like  to  take  your 
place  in  the  balloon  and  go  alone  with  my  friend.  Of 
course  no  one  would  be  told  of  this,  and  it  would  have 
to  be  a  private  matter  between  you  and  myself.  I  sup- 
pose that  in  the  event  of  our  making  some  sort  of  an 
arrangement  like  this,  I  should  not  have  to  pay  for  the 
gas,  as  this  would  be  found  by  the  company  for  your 
ascent.  I  should  like  your  largest  balloon,  so  as  to  make 
a  long  ascent,  and  would  pay  for  any  damage  done  it,  as 
well  as  a  certain  sum  to  you  for  the  hire.     WTiat  time 


112  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

would  the  balloon  be  likely  to  go  up,  as  the  earlier 
the  better,  and  what  would  be  your  terms  for  the  hire  ? 
Send  me  an  answer  by  telegraph,  as  to-morrow  is  Sunday 
and  there  is  no  post. 

Yours    truly, 

Fred  Burnaby. 

As  the  agreement  with  Mr.  Wright  indicates,  the 
voyage  was  made  on  September  19th  (1876).  It  was  a 
thoroughly  successful  one,  and  on  arriving  home  Burnaby 
ordered  another  balloon — holding  50,000  feet  of  gas — 
in  order  to  carry  out  additional  scientific  experiments. 
Subsequently  he  and  Mr.  Wright  made  several  ascents 
together,  and  after  one  of  them  Burnaby  gave  his  com- 
panion an  aneroid*  and  a  copy  of  A  Ride  to  Khiva,  with 
the  following  words  in  autograph  :  "  Mr.  Wright,  from 
the  author,  in  remembrance  of  some  pleasant  journeys 
in  the  air,  July  11th,  1877,  St.  John's  Wood  Barracks, 
London." 

Burnaby's  enthusiasm  for  aeronautics  was  shared  by 
several  of  his  more  intimate  friends  ;  and  one  of  them, 
Captain  Colvile,  even  went  so  far — a  few  years  later — 
as  to  spend  his  honeymoon  in  one  of  Mr.  Wright's 
balloons.*}" 

*Now  in  the  possession  of  Miss  Wright. 

•"-This  was  on  25th  April,  1879.  Captain  Colvile  and  his  wife  drove 
from  the  church  to  the  Crystal  Palace  where  the  balloon  was  waiting  for 
them.  The  trip,  according  to  Captain  Colvile,  was  a  delightful  one  and 
they  descended  at  Waterbeach,  in  Cambridgeshire. 


BURNABY    DROPPING    FROM    THE    TREE. 
From  the  Strand  Magazine. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

november  1876 spring  1877. 

Travels  in  Asia  Minor.* 
bibliography  : 

5.  The  Practical  Instruction  of  Staff  Officers,  1876. 

6.  A  Ride  to  Khiva  1876  (Reviewed  in  Saturday  Review 

25th  November  1876).  Eleventh  edition  1877. 
(Cassell.) 

7.  On   Horseback   through  Asia  Minor   1877.     Seventh 

edition  with  Memoir  of  Radford  and  a  new  preface 
dealing  with  the  Eastern  question  1878.  (Sampson 
Low.) 

While  Burnaby  and  Mr.  Wright  were  thus  busying 
themselves,  all  England  was  roused  owing  to  the  Bul- 
34— Burnaby  and  garian  massacres,  and  in  newspaper  and  on 
Radford  set  platform  the  Turks  were  held  up  to  execra- 
Travels,  tion.  Burnaby  insisted,  however,  that  the 
Nov.  1876.  cry  against  them  was  something  of  an  elec- 
tion dodge.  He  deplored,  as  did  every  other  feeling  man, 
the  shocking  butchery  in  Bulgaria  ;  but  he  pointed  out 
that  the  trouble  was  owing  in  part  to  reprisals  made  by 
the  Turks  on  account  of  cruelty  inflicted  on  their  people 
by  the  Russians  and  other  Christians,  and  in  part  to  the 
barbarity  of  the  Turkish  mercenaries.  He  considered 
the  genuine  Turk  one  of  the  finest  fellows  in  the  world, 
and  he  denied  that  the  Anatolian  Christians  were  op- 
pressed. He  determined,  however,  to  go  to  Asia  Minor 
and  examine  the  condition  of  affairs  with  his  own  eyes. 

*  This  chapter  is  founded  on  Burnaby 's  On  Horseback  through  Asia  Minor 
and  Burnaby 's  letters  (lent  to  the  Author  by  Mrs.  Baillie). 

("5) 


116  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

Burnaby,  having  first  applied  to  the  Turkish  Ambassa- 
dor, asking  whether  any  special  permission  was  required, 
received  reply  that  an  Englishman  could  travel  where 
he  liked  in  the  Turkish  Dominions  ;  and  he  contrasted 
these  words  with  the  grudging  acquiescence  of  the  St. 
Petersburg  authorities  when  he  was  about  to  visit  Tar- 
tary. 

Having  crossed  to  Calais,  Burnaby,  accompanied  by 
Radford,  made  for  Marseilles,  whence  he  took  steamer 
for  Constantinople.  Here,  after  hiring  a  servant  named 
Osman,  a  fine-looking  fellow  in  a  fez  and  light  blue 
trousers  fastened  at  the  waist  with  a  crimson  sash,  he 
questioned  both  Turk  and  Christian  concerning  the  condi- 
tion of  the  country  in  which  he  was  about  to  travel. 
An  Armenian  assured  him  that  if  he  tried  to  get  as  far  as 
Van,  he  would  in  all  probability  be  robbed  or  murdered 
by  the  Kurds — a  statement  that  made  Van  peculiarly 
attractive  to  him,  and  he  straightway  resolved  that 
whatever  other  place  he  might  avoid,  Van  should  cer- 
tainly see  his  face. 

Having  cheapened  some  horses  he  gave  them,  consonant 
with  his  custom,  scriptural  names, — calling  one  a  vicious 
black  brute  Obadiah ;  and  after  making  other  preparations, 
he  turned  his  face  towards  the  Bosphorus.  A  crowd 
collected  to  see  him  start — the  Giaour,  who  madly  pro- 
posed making  his  way  from  Scutari  to  Batoum  by  land 
instead  of  by  water.  When  all  was  ready  he  gave 
Osman  a  travelling  sword,  an  action  that  had  the  result 
of  intensifving  the  excitement. 

"  Osman  has  got  a  sword,"  said  one. 

"  He  is  buckling  it  on,"  said  another. 

But  Osman's  air  of  importance  increased  ten-fold 
when  Burnaby  desired  him  to  sling  a  sporting  rifle  on 
his  shoulder.  There  was  a  faint  approach  to  a  cheer 
from  a  little  boy  in  the  crowd  ;  but  this  was  instantly 
suppressed,  and  in  the  midst  of  all  the  excitement  Burn- 
aby, Radford  and  the  horses  proceeded,  not  without  dig- 
nity, down  the  street  of  Para. 


TRAVELS    IN    ASIA    MINOR  117 

Among  the  passengers  on  board  the  steamer  which 
carried  them  over  the  Bosphorus  were  some  Turkish 
ladies,  whose  faces  could  be  clearly  seen  through  the 
diaphanous  texture  which  served  them  as  veils.  They 
were  not  prepossessing,  and  they  sadly  wanted  expression 
— a  defect  which  Burnaby  observed  in  almost  every 
Turkish  woman  whose  countenance  he  scrutinized  ; 
but,  as  he  observes,  considering  that  only  one  woman 
out  of  every  thousand  can  read  or  write,  this  is  not  sur- 
prising. 

He  was  roused  from  his  reverie  by  a  violent  explosion, 
caused  as  it  was  afterwards  discovered,  by  Obadiah, 
who  had  kicked  over  a  box  of  cartridges. 

Radford  explained  just  how  it  happened.  "  Lor  sir," 
he  said,  "  it  was  that  black  'orse  Obadiah,  as  was  the 
bottom  of  all  the  mischief.  He  is  that  artful.  He  stood 
quiet  enough  till  we  started,  and  the  paddles  began  to 
turn  ;  he  then  started  kicking,  and  frightened  the  grey. 
That  'ere  Turk,"  pointing  to  Osman,  "  was  a  praying  by 
the  side  of  the  paddle-boxes,  and  not  taking  any  account 
of  the  hanimals,  drat  him !  Obadiah  upset  his  packsaddle 
and  stamped  on  the  cartridge-box  ;  and  when  some  of 
them  went  off,  Hosman  left  off  praying  and  began  to 
swear." 

As  Radford  said,  whenever  there  was  any  work  to  be 
done,  the  artful  Osman  fell  to  prayer — and  to  aggravate 
the  offence  he,  as  often  as  not,  would  take  Radford's 
coat  to  kneel  on. 

The  Pasha  of  Ismid  enquired  of  Burnaby  why  England 
hated  the  Turks. 

"  Partly,"  replied  Burnaby,  "  on  account  of  the 
tigerish  excesses  of  your  Bashi-Bazooks  ;  but  mainly 
because  you  repudiated  your  debt." 

The  Pasha  attributed  all  the  trouble  to  the  machina- 
tions of  Russia.  "  Russia,"  he  said,  "  will  not  let  us  be 
quiet.  She  compels  us  to  keep  up  a  large  army.  Her 
agents  bring  about  massacres  of  the  Christians,  and  set 
the   world    against    us " — and   Burnaby,  who  at  almost 


118  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

every  step  on  his  journey  heard  the  same  tale,  became 
every  day  more  and  more  convinced  of  its  truth. 

The  one  topic  at  every  halting  place  was  the  anticipated 
war.  On  the  road  Osman  gave  some  account  of  his 
family  life.  He  had  a  good  wife.  He  admitted  that  her 
eyes  were  not  quite  straight,  but  he  hastened  to  add  that 
this  little  imperfection  was  more  than  balanced  by  her 
skill  as  a  cook. 

"  She  makes  soup,"  he  observed,  "  which  is  even  more 
filling  than  my  brother's  " — pointing  to  Radford. 

At  one  village  a  Turkish  farmer  honoured  Burnaby 
by  the  loan  of  the  family  yorgan  or  quilt — which,  though 
ancient  and  beautiful,  turned  out  to  be  a  paradise  for 
fleas  ;  but  Burnaby,  who  slept  not  a  wink  all  night, 
subsequently  discovered  that  Armenian  yorgans  contain 
about  twice  as  many  fleas  as  the  Turkish.  Having 
passed  Istanos,  the  place  where  Alexander  the  Great 
cut  the  Gordian  knot,  the  travellers  came  to  Angora, 
where  they  learnt  that  there  was  a  deal  of  immorality 
among  the  fair  sex,  though  nothing  to  what  existed  in 
Yusgat,  a  town  little  further  on,  where  could  be  seen 
the  lascivious  dance  of  the  Turkish  gipsy  woman,  which 
was  strictly  prohibited  in  other  places.  If  the  women 
were  immoral,  however,  the  men  were  hospitable,  and 
Burnaby  was  glad  to  give  the  Turk  his  due  wherever 
found.  Moreover  at  Angora,  exceptional  harmony  ex- 
isted between  Turk  and  Christian.  "  Englishmen  who 
abuse  the  Turkish  nation,"  observed  Burnaby,  "  should 
travel  a  little  in  Anatolia." 

Having  crossed  the  Kizil  Irmak  river  in  a  barge,  for 
there  was  no  bridge,  the  travellers  came  to  an  encamp- 
ment of  Kurds,  a  people  who  have  a  simple  and  original 
way  of  avoiding  the  payment  of  taxes.  When  they  ex- 
pect a  visit  from  the  collector,  they  pack  up  their  chattels 
and  migrate  to  the  mountains,  where  they  bid  him  de- 
fiance, and  where  they  remain  until  their  spies  have 
announced  the  enemy's  departure. 

Burnaby  next  came  to  a  Turkoman  village,  that  is  to 


TRAVELS    IN    ASIA    MINOR  121 

say,  to  a  few  holes  in  the  side  of  a  hill.  He  entered  one 
of  these  queer  dwellings  with  the  intention  of  dining 
with  the  family,  but  the  fleas  having  put  him  to  flight, 
he  finished  his  meal  in  the  open.  At  every  turning  he 
heard  tales  of  Russian  atrocities  on  the  borderland. 
Burnaby  next  entered  the  disreputable  town  of  Yusgat — 
the  Lampsacus  of  Anatolia.  No  Englishman  had  visited 
it  for  twenty  years,  and  the  Turkish  population,  who 
were  friendly  to  England  on  account  of  the  Crimean  war, 
turned  out  in  mass  to  welcome  the  stranger.  Even 
Osman  had  some  of  the  glory  reflected  upon  him,  for  he 
was  kissed  effusively  by  a  number  of  dirty  Turks. 

"  How  do  you  like  the  Turks  ?  "  enquired  Burnaby 
of  the  chief  engineer  of  the  district- — a  Pole. 

"  The  Turks  and  the  Armenians  get  on  very  well 
together,"  was  the  reply,  "  and  the  law  is  carried  out 
fairly  for  all  classes." 

On  the  outskirts  of  the  town  Burnaby  and  the  Pole 
passed  some  good  looking  gipsy  women  with  brown  com- 
plexions, dark  eyes,  and  long  black  hair. 

"  These  are  the  dancers,"  said  the  Pole.  '  Let  us  go 
and  talk  to  one  of  the  old  women,  and  choose  the  girls 
who  are  to  perform." 

"  How  many  do  you  require  ?  "  asked  the  old  woman. 

"  Three,"  replied  the  Pole. 

"  Well,"  said  she,  "  three  you  shall  have.  The  most 
beautiful  and  gazelle-like  of  our  tribe.  I  will  come  my- 
self, and  I  too  will  dance,  if  only  to  show  the  Frank 
Effendi  what  our  dance  is  like." 

It  was  as  much  as  Burnaby  could  do  to  keep  his  coun- 
tenance, for  the  old  woman  was  very  fat ;  and  some  of  the 
girls,  catching  his  eye,  went  off  into  fits  of  laughter. 

"  Ah  !  you  may  laugh,  children,"  she  said,  indignantly, 
"  but  none  of  you  can  dance  so  well  as  I  can  "  ;  and 
straightening  her  aged  limbs,  she  showed  what  she  could 
do,  while  the  girls  applauded  her,  and  beat  time  with  their 
hands. 

"  Very  good,"  said  the  Pole,  as  she  sank  down  on  a 

H  2 


122  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

divan,  "  Very  good.  You  dance  like  a  stag.  You  shall 
come  too." 

"  Thank  heavens,"  he  remarked  in  French,  "  she  did 
not  throw  herself  on  to  my  lap,  for  this  is  the  custom 
of  these  wild  dancers  ;  if  she  had  done  so,  there  would  not 
have  been  much  left  of  me." 

On  the  following  evening,  according  to  appointment, 
the  dancers  arrived  at  the  Pole's  house. 

First  entered  some  male  gipsies  carrying  lutes  and  an 
instrument  like  a  bagpipe,  which  emitted  a  wild  and  dis- 
cordant blast ;  and  then  came  the  dancers  accompanied 
by  the  fat  woman.  The  girls  were  in  blue  jackets, 
purple  waistcoats  lashed  with  gold  embroidery,  and  very 
loose  yellow  trousers.  Their  eyebrows  were  made  to 
meet  by  charcoal  lines,  their  teeth  and  finger  nails  were 
dyed  red,  and  their  hair  hung  in  long  tresses  below  their 
waists.  The  principal  dancer's  hair  was  decorated 
with  gold  spangles,  and  all  carried  castanets.  The  lutes 
having  struck  up,  and  the  bagpipes  having  resumed 
screaming,  the  dance  began. 

The  girls  whirled  round  each  other  till  their  long  black 
tresses  stood  out  at  right  angles  from  their  bodies.  The 
perspiration  poured  down  their  cheeks.  The  old  lady,  who 
was  seated  on  a  divan,  then  uncrossed  her  legs,  beating 
her  brass  ankle-rings  the  one  against  the  other,  thus 
adding  yet  another  noise  to  the  din.  The  girls  snapped 
their  castanets,  and  then  whirled  their  bodies  round  each 
other  with  such  velocity  that  it  was  impossible  to  dis- 
tinguish the  one  from  the  other.  All  of  a  sudden,  the 
music  stopped,  and  the  panting  dancers  threw  them- 
selves down  on  the  laps  of  the  musicians. 

When  asked  by  the  Pole  what  he  thought  of  it,  Burn- 
aby,  among  other  criticisms,  observed  that  the  Lord 
Chamberlain  would  not  allow  such  performances  in 
England. 

"  The  Lord  Chamberlain,  who  is  he  ?  "  inquired  an 
Armenian  present. 

"  He  is  an  official  who  looks  after  public  morals." 


TRAVELS    IN    ASIA    MINOR  123 

"  And  do  you  mean  to  say  that  he  would  object  to  this 
sort  of  dance  ?  " 

"  Yes." 

"  But  this  is  nothing,"  said  the  Pole.  "  When  there 
is  a  marriage  festival  in  a  harem,  the  women  arrange  their 
costumes  so  that  one  article  of  attire  falls  off  after 
another  during  the  dance.  The  performers  are  finally 
left  in  very  much  the  same  garb  as  our  first  parents  after 
the  fall.  We  shall  be  spared  that  spectacle,  for  my  wife 
is  here."  Finally  the  old  woman,  who  had  been  given  a 
glass  of  raki,  delivered  herself  of  a  pas  seul ;  and  then 
the  troope  made  their  departure. 

Burnaby  also  witnessed  the  national  game  of  djerrid, 
and  took  part  in  a  hunt.  At  Tokat  he  met  some  Cir- 
cassians, who  corroborated  the  various  accusations 
made  against  the  Russians,  and  declared  that  they  had 
transformed  Circassia  into  a  hell. 

For    some    time    Burnaby    had    received    hints    that 

Osman,  when  not  engaged  in  prayer,  was  either  robbing 

him  or  planning  a  theft ;  and  at  last,  after 

catching   the   rascal   red-handed,    he    dis-        „  , 

,  °,  .  i     ,  •      !  . ,  35— Mohammed, 

missed  him,   and    hired  another  servant, 

a  nimble  redif-soldier  named  Mohammed. 

At  Sivas  Burnaby  enquired  of  an  Armenian  whether  the 

Turks  ever  tortured  the  Christians  there. 

"  No,"  was  the  reply,  "  the  law  is,  or  rather  the  judges 
are,  much  too  merciful  "  ;  and  once  more  he  was  told  that 
whatever  trouble  arose  was  caused  by  the  Russian  agents, 
who  were  perpetually  fomenting  quarrels  between  Turk 
and  Christian,  and  sowing  fresh  seeds  of  disaffection 
among  the  Armenian  subjects  of  the  Porte.  '  But  for 
Russian  intrigues,"  said  the  Pasha  of  Sivas  to  Burnaby, 
"  we  Turks  should  be  very  good  friends  with  the  Chris- 
tians." "  The  Turks  are  not  cruel,"  observed  an 
American  gentleman  to  Burnaby,  "  but  they  are  pig- 
headed.    They  will  not  advance  with  the  times." 

Soon  after  passing  Sivas  Burnaby 's  party,  which 
included  some  Zaptiehs,  who  had  been  sent  to  act  as 


124  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

guides  for  him,  were  nearly  buried  in  a  snow  drift, 
and  a  rebellion  broke  out  among  them.  By  drawing  his 
revolver,  however,  Burnaby  brought  his  factious  com- 
panions to  their  senses,  and  in  due  time  the  whole  party 
struggled  through  the  snow  and  reached  the  next  village 
— on  the  whole,  the  filthiest  within  their  experience. 
When  under  shelter  Burnaby,  who  had  supped  and  was 
beginning  to  doze,  overheard  a  conversation  between  the 
Zaptiehs  and  Mohammed. 

"  Only  think,"  said  a  Zaptieh,  "  of  our  being  threat- 
ened by  the  infidel." 

"  He  would  have  carried  out  his  threat,"  said  Moham- 
med. "  My  Effendi  is  not  like  the  Christians  about  here. 
He  is  an  Inglis  !  " 

"  So  the  Inglis  giaours  are  different  from  the  Armenian 
giaours  ?  "  observed  the  Zaptieh. 

"  Very  different,"  replied  Mohammed,  "  the  Armen- 
ians talk,  but  the  Inglis  strike." 

Burnaby's  curiosity  was  unbounded,  and  everywhere 
he  enquired  into  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  people. 
He  found  that  most  of  the  Christians  were  usurers, 
that  they  lent  to  the  Turks  at  an  exorbitant  rate  of 
interest,  and  that  in  some  instances  old  Turkish  families 
had  been  entirely  ruined  by  Armenian  money-lenders. 
At  Erzingan  Burnaby  called  on  a  rich  and  lecherous 
Turk,  who  was  in  the  hands  of  an  Italian  physician. 

"  What  is  the  matter  with  him  ?  "  enquired  Burnaby. 

"  Drink,  my  good  sir,"  replied  the  doctor.  "He  is 
forty,  I  am  over  ninety,  but  please  God,  as  the  Turks  say, 
I  shall  outlive  him.  If  the  upper  classes  of  Moham- 
medans were  sober,  they  would  live  for  ever  in  this 
delightful  climate.  But  what  with  their  women,  and 
what  with  their  wine,  they  shorten  their  existence  by  at 
least  thirty  years." 

"  What  are  you  talking  about  ?  "  enquired  the  sick 
man. 

"I   was   saying,    Bey   Effendi  !  "   replied  the   doctor, 


TRAVELS    IN    ASIA    MINOR  125 

"  how  very  popular  you  are  in  the  neighbourhood,  and 
how  much  everyone  loves  you." 

Arrived  at  Erzeroum — supposed  to  have  been  the 
home  of  our  first  parents — Burnaby  was  informed  by 
an  Armenian,  the  Pasha's  interpreter,  that  the  Russian 
consul  at  Erzeroum  had  just  received  a  telegram,  which 
ran  as  follows  : 

"  Two  months  ago  an  Englishman,  a  certain  Captain 
Burnaby,  left  Constantinople  with  the  object  of  travel- 
ling in  Asia  Minor.  He  is  a  desperate  enemy  (mm  ennemi 
acharne)  of  Russia.  We  have  lost  all  traces  of  him  since 
his  departure  from  Stamboul.  We  believe  that,the  real 
object  of  his  journey  is  to  pass  the  frontier,  and  enter 
Russia.  Do  your  best,  sir,  to  discover  the  whereabouts 
of  this  aforesaid  Captain.  Find  means  to  inform  him 
that  in  the  event  of  his  entering  our  territory,  he  will  be 
immediately  expelled." 

Burnaby  also  heard  that  the  Russians  had  hung  up  his 
photograph  at  all  the  frontier  stations,  so  as  to  enable 
their  officers  to  recoonise  him  should  he  attempt  to  enter 
Russian  territory. 

As  he  had  no  desire  to  cross  the  frontier,  this  informa- 
tion did  not  disturb  him  ;  but  he  was  of  opinion  that  the 
real  reason  of  the  Russians  for  not  wishing  him  to  travel 
through  the  Caucasus  was  lest  he  should  obtain  fresh 
proofs  of  their  enormities. 

From  Erzeroum  he  wrote  to  his  mother  a  long  letter, 
from  which  we  may  quote  a  few  paragraphs  : 

"  Erzeroum.     The  Garden  of  Eden, 

11th  Februarv,  1877. 

"  It  has  been  a  hard  journey.  Over  13,000  miles,  and 
all  on  horseback,  through  deep  mud  at  first,  and  in  some 
places  up  to  the  horses'  girths.  I  stayed  at  Angora  three 
days.  Then  on  the  track  again  ;  over  mountains  and 
crags,  passing  over  ground  that  abounds  with  mineral 
wealth,  and,  alas  !  left  idly  in  the  earth,  till  I  reached 
Yusgat." 

"  '  Why  do  you  not  introduce  your  family  to  me  ?  ' 


126  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

I  enquired  one  day  of  my  host  (an  Armenian  gentle- 
man). 

*' '  I  keep  my  wife  and  daughter  for  myself,  and  not  for 
my  guests,'  "  was  the  reply. 

"  All  through  this  part  of  the  world  the  same  custom 
exists.  Poor  Armenian  women !  They  are  indeed  to  be 
pitied.  They  receive  no  education  whatever.  What 
they  do  not  know  themselves,  it  is  impossible  to  teach 
their  children  ;  the  result  is  that  the  whole  population, 
Christian  as  well  as  Mussulman,  is  steeped  in  the  deepest 
slough  of  ignorance." 

As  the  travellers  proceeded  on  their  journey  Burnaby 
fell  ill,  and  the  necessity  of  walking  through  great  tracts 
of  snow  aggravated  his  complaint.  He  had  no  sooner 
begun  to  recover  than  Mohammed  was  taken  with  severe 
rheumatism,  which  was  relieved  by  a  mustard  plaster. 

A  Kurd  who  watched  the  operation  observed,  "  It  is  a 
wonder.  The  plaster  is  cold,  but  Mohammed  says  he  is 
on  fire.  I  should  like  a  plaster  too,"  and  turning  to  Rad- 
ford he  held  out  his  hand  for  one. 

"  Plasters  are  for  sick  people,  not  for  men  in  a  good 
state  of  health,"  observed  Burnaby. 

"  But  I  am  not  well,"  said  the  Kurd. 

As  however  the  man  had  nothing  to  show  beyond  an 
old  frostbite,  the  request  was  ignored. 

The  news  of  Burnaby's  skill  as  a  medicine  man  spread 

far  and  wide,   and  people  came  wheedling  to  him  for 

mustard  plasters  to  cure  every  imaginable 

36— Among  the   complaint — not  excluding  the   toothache. 

Worshippers.  After  passing  the  mighty  Mount  Ararat, 
the  travellers  arrived  at  a  village  of 
Yezeeds  or  Devil- Worshippers — a  people  whose  principal 
temple  is  adorned  with  a  figure  of  a  serpent  kept  black 
with  charcoal.  The  idea  of  the  sect  who,  by  the  by,  do 
not  admit  devil-worship,  though  there  is  incontrovertible 
evidence  that  they  practise  it,  is  that  there  are  two 
spirits — one  of  good,  the  other  of  evil — that  it  is  a  waste 


TRAVELS    IN    ASIA    MINOR  127 

of  time  to  worship  the  spirit  of  good,  who  will  not  hurt 
them  ;  the  correct  course  to  pursue  being  to  try  to 
propitiate  the  spirit  of  evil.  They  are  visited  periodically 
by  priests  who,  clad  in  white  and  swaying  a  wand  sur- 
mounted by  a  sacred  brass  peacock,  perform  certain  rites 
which  they  keep  rigorously  secret.  Should  a  priest  arrive 
in  the  village,  the  first  act  of  the  inhabitants  is  to  offer 
their  wives  and  daughters  for  his  inspection.  The  family 
of  the  woman  or  girl  selected  considers  that  a  very  high 
honour  has  been  conferred  upon  it.  Burnaby  learnt 
that  there  are  different  laws  as  to  the  subsequent  treat- 
ment of  these  privileged  women.  In  one  of  the  sects 
(and  there  are  two)  they  are  forbidden  afterwards  to  ap- 
proach a  man  ;  but  in  the  other  an  unmarried  woman 
thus  honoured  is  permitted  to  marry,  while  a  married 
woman  is  allowed  to  return  to  her  husband  ;  and  it  is  the 
duty  of  the  village  to  make  her  rich  presents,  and  to 
maintain  her  and  her  husband  during  the  rest  of  their 
lives.  In  short  they  secure  an  "  old  age  pension,"  and 
are  envied  accordingly. 

As  this  account  differed  in  detail  from  what  is  related 
by  Mr.  Layard,  the  Assyriologist,  Burnaby  resolved  to 
question  some  of  the  Yezeeds,  but  an  unfortunate  occur- 
rence prevented  him  from  obtaining  the  desired  informa- 
tion. By  chance  in  conversation  he  mentioned  the 
word  Shaitan  (devil).  "  If,"  says  he,  "  a  bombshell  had 
exploded  in  the  room  where  I  was  sitting,  there  could 
not  have  been  greater  consternation  than  that  which 
was  evinced  by  the  members  of  my  host's  family. 
Springing  to  their  feet,  they  fled  from  the  building — an 
old  woman  nearly  upsetting  Radford's  cooking  pot 
in  her  haste  to  escape  into  the  open  air." 

Burnaby  was  very  sorry,  and  at  first  thought  of  apolo- 
gising, but  in  the  fear  lest  by  so  doing  he  might  make 
matters  worse,  he  changed  his  mind,  and  proceeded  on 
his  journey. 

The  next  stopping  place  was  Kelise  Kandi,  a  Persian 
village,  where  Burnaby  became  the  guest  of  the  chief 


128  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

proprietor,  who  had  been  informed  of  the 
prescribes    story  of  the  mustard  plaster. 
for  a  Persian       «  You    are    a    great    hakim    (doctor)," 

observed  the  Persian. 
"  I  am  not  a  hakim,"  Burnaby  remarked  hastily. 
"  Do  not  say  that,"  followed  the  Persian.     "  Do  not 
deny  the  talents  that  Allah  has  given  you.     Your  arrival 
has  cast  a  gleam  of  sunshine  on  our  threshold." 

"  What  do  you  want  me  to  do  ?  "  enquired  Burnaby. 
"  My  wife  is  poorly,"  said  the  Persian.     "  I  ask  you  to 
cure  her." 

"  Well,  I  must  see  her,"  followed  Burnaby. 

"  Impossible,"  said  the  Persian,  "  she  is  in  the  harem. 
I  cannot  take  vou  there.  Give  me  a  mustard  plaster  for 
her." 

"  I  can't  prescribe  for  her  without  seeing  her,"  said 
Burnaby. 

After  prolonged  hesitation,  the  Persian  consented 
to  allow  the  "  hakim  '"  to  look  at  his  wife's  tongue, 
and  he  led  the  way  to  the  harem.  The  lady,  enveloped 
from  head  to  foot  in  a  sheet  of  gauze-like  material, 
was  reclining  on  cushions.  Her  feet,  which  she  had  just 
taken  from  two  dainty  white  slippers,  were  very  small  and 
stockingless,  and  she  nervously  tapped  the  ground  with 
her  heel. 

"  She  is  alarmed,"  said  the  Persian.  "Be  not 
alarmed,"  he  added,  turning  to  his  wife.  "It  is  the 
hakim,  who  has  come  to  make  you  well." 

These  remarks  did  not  tranquilize  the  lady.  Her  heel 
tapped  the  ground  more  quickly  than  before,  the  whole 
of  her  body  shook  like  an  aspen-leaf. 

However,  when  Burnaby  asked  to  see  her  tongue, 
she  removed  the  folds  of  her  veil,  and  allowed  a  very 
red  tip  to  escape  from  her  lips. 

"  Well,  what  do  you  think  of  it  ?  "  enquired  the  Per- 
sian, who  was  taking  the  greatest  interest  in  these  pro- 
ceedings. 


TRAVELS    IN    ASIA    MINOR  129 

Burnaby,  who  had  nothing  but  praise  for  the  tongue, 
then  asked  to  see  her  eyes. 

"  Why  her  eyes  ?  " 

"  Because  she  may  have  jaundice.  I  must  see  if  her 
eye  is  yellow." 

"  Perhaps  she  had  better  expose  the  whole  face," 
said  the  Persian. 

"  Perhaps  she  had,"  remarked  Burnaby. 

The  lady  then  unwound  the  folds  of  muslin  from  around 
her  head,  and  revealed  pretty,  regular  features,  while  a 
pair  of  large  black  eyes,  which  looked  through  Burnaby 
as  he  gazed  on  them,  were  twinkling  more  with  humour 
than  fear. 

"  What  is  the  matter  with  you  ?  "  enquired  Burnaby. 

She  blushed.  Her  husband  then  remarked  that  she 
fancied  strange  dishes  at  her  meals,  was  in  fact  delicate ; 
and  on  learning  further  that  the  couple  had  been 
married  only  a  few  months,  Burnaby  diagnosed  the  case 
without  difficulty. 

"  I  have  no  medicine  for  your  complaint,"  he  re- 
marked. 

"  No  medicine  !  '  said  the  Persian  indignantly. 
"  Mohammed  has  shown  me  the  bottles  and  the  little 
boxes.     Besides  that  you  have  the  wet  paper." 

"  A  mustard  plaster  would  be  useless,"  said  Burnaby. 

"  But  she  must  have  something,"  said  the  husband  ; 
so  to  satisfy  him  Burnaby  gave  him  three  grains  of  quin- 
ine, to  be  taken  in  three  doses,  one  grain  in  each  dose. 

"  Will  it  do  her  much  good  ?  "  inquired  the  Persian. 

"  That  depends  upon  Allah,"  replied  Burnaby. 

At  the  next  village  Burnaby  found  his  reputation  as  a 
hakim  still  more  inconvenient.  To  judge  by  the  number 
of  persons  who  begged  for  medicine,  the  whole  population 
was  unwell.  Everyone  put  out  a  tongue  and  offered 
a  pulse  ;  and  they  even  pestered  Radford — hindering  him 
in  his  cooking — the  belief  having  seized  them  that  since 
the  master  was  so  great  a  hakim,  the  servant  must  neces- 
sarily have  some  medical  skill . 


130  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

On  reaching  Khoi  Burnaby  became  the  guest  of  the 
Turkish  consul,  who  complained  of  being  dull.  "My 
wife  died  six  months  ago,"  he  said,  "  and  I  have  not  been 
able  to  find  another." 

"  Why  do  you  not  take  a  Kurdish  girl  ?  "  enquired 
a  listener.  "  They  make  model  wives.  If  their  hus- 
bands have  money  they  do  not  ask  for  any ;  if  the  hus- 
bands have  no  money  the  wives  never  bother  their  heads 
about  the  matter.  In  addition  to  this,  they  do  not  care 
about  fine  clothes.  A  long  piece  of  calico  and  a  pair  of 
slippers  content  them  as  well  as  all  the  silks  and  satins 
in  Erzeroum  bazaar." 

But  there  was  a  difficulty,  it  seems,  for  his  previous 
wife  was  a  Kurd,  and  in  compliance  with  her  suggestion 
he  had  engaged  her  father  and  mother  as  servants. 

"  I  have  found  them,"  continued  the  consul,  "  hard- 
working people.  When  my  poor  wife  died,  I  allowed 
them  to  remain  with  me.  If  I  marry  again,  my  new  lady 
will  probably  wish  her  own  relations  to  come  here,  and 
I  shall  be  obliged  to  get  rid  of  my  present  servants." 

From  Khoi  Burnaby  wrote,  28th  February,  1877, 
to  his  sister  Annie  a  long  letter,  which  concludes : 
*'  I  have  got  very  thin.     Radford  is  reduced  to  a  walking 

skeleton.     From  here   I   shall   go   to Batoum, 

that  is  if  there  is  anvthing  left  of  me  to  travel,  as  I  am 
rapidly  getting  into  that  condition  of  body  which  would 
be  required  should  I  wish  to  crawl  into  a  gas  pipe." 

At  a  place  called  Toprak  Kileh,  he  was  taken  with 
rheumatic  fever,  aggravated  by  the  foulness  of  the  atmos- 
phere in  his  sleeping  room,  which  he  shared  with  a  few 
cows  and  a  multitude  of  fleas.  On  his  recovery  he  pro- 
ceeded to  Kars,  passing  on  his  way  through  several 
Circassian  villages.  The  beauty  of  the  Circassian  girls 
being  famous  the  world  over,  he  took  particular  notice  of 
their  faces.  Several  were  seductive,  but  he  found,  to  his 
surprise,  that  their  complexions  were  not  fair  but  olive. 
"  The  mischief  they  play,"  he  says,  -"  is  chiefly  attribut- 
able to  their  large,  flashing  eyes  and  their  small  pearly 


TRAVELS    IN    ASIA    MINOR  131 

teeth."  At  Kars  he  found  20,000  troops  quartered, 
but  the  streets  were  filthy  and  the  hospitals  crowded 
with  typhoid  fever  patients.  At  Ardahan  he  sold  his 
horses  ;  and  on  reaching  Livana  he  hired  a  cayek  and 
proceeded  by  the  Tschoroch  river  to  Batoum — greatly 
to  the  terror  and  discomfort  of  Mohammed,  who  was  an 
indifferent  sailor.  "  My  brother,"  he  said,  pointing  to 
Radford,  "  is  brave  on  the  water  ;  I  am  brave  on  land  ; 
we  are  both  brave,"  and  seizing  his  fellow  servant's 
hand,  he  shook  it  heartily. 

Burnaby  and  Radford  having  boarded  the  steamer 
which  was  to  carry  them  away,  Mohammed  followed 
them  ;  but  when  the  moment  for  parting  arrived,  the 
poor  fellow's  countenance  revealed  the  struggle  that  was 
going  on  in  his  mind,  and  some  big  tears  rolled  down  his 
cheeks. 

"  My  heart  is  very  full,"  he  said,  "  for  am  I  not  losing 
my  lord,  as  well  as  my  brother  ?  "  and  seizing  Radford's 
hand,  he  wrung  it  heartily. 

"  That  Mohammed  was  not  such  a  bad  chap  after  all, 
sir,"  commented  Radford  when  the  vessel  had  got  under 
weigh. 

The  voyage  to  Constantinople  was  an  uneventful  one, 
and  eight  days  later  Burnaby  arrived  in  London,  bringing 
his  friends  handsome  Turkish  slippers  embroidered  on 
green  velvet  with  gold,  and  gold-mounted  walking 
sticks. 

At  the  earliest  possible  moment  he  settled  himself  to 
write,  in  baby  hand,  an  account  of  his  adventures,  and 
it  duly  appeared  in  two  volumes  with  the  title  On  Horse- 
back through  Asia  Minor  ;*  nor  has  a  more  entertaining 
Odyssey  ever  left  the  Press. 

I  spoke  of  his  writing  as  a  baby  hand,  and  indeed  it  did 
not  differ  at  34,  or  even  at  42,  from  what  it  had  been  at 
7  or  8.  It  was  always  the  same  ;  and  his  style  as  a  writer, 
to  use  Mr.  Bowles's  expression,  "  was  that  of  an  open- 
eyed  ingenuous  baby  " — a  baby  with  a  man's  appreciation 

*  Sampson  Low,  Marston  &  Co.     Our  quotations  are  from  this  work. 


132  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

of  humour.  This  is  its  distinctive  note.  His  good 
nature,  his  courage,  and  his  keen  enjoyment  of  the  in- 
congruities of  life — of  life's  little  jokes — stand  revealed 
on  every  page  he  wrote. 

"  The  book  is  out,"  he  wrote  to  his  sister  Annie.  "  Some 
of  the  critiques  are  good,  others  will  probably  be  un- 
favourable. However  an  author  has  to  run  the  gauntlet 
and  he  learns  more  through  being  blamed  than  through 
being  praised.  It  is  a  good  thing  to  realise  to  oneself  the 
saying  of  the  old  Greek  philosopher — Know  thyself. 
Sharp  criticisms  are  useful  in  that  way.     The  book  is 

selling  well.     3,500  copies  in  the  first  edition I 

was  asked  to  stay  with but  have  declined  all 

invitations.     It  is  a  bore  being  lionized." 


CHAPTER    IX. 

Spring  1877  —  February  1878. 

burnaby  and   radford   at   the   seat   of  war  in 

Turkey. 

Russia  declared  war  against  Turkey  on  24th  April, 
1877,  and  straightway  poured  battalion  after  battalion 

38-Bumaby  and  uPon  ^  Plains  of  Roumania.  For  a  time 
Radford  the  progress  of  the  invaders  was  rapid,  while 
PT°uXdy!°  the  Turkish  leaders  looked  on  supinely 
Nov.  1877.  or  retreated  faultily  ;  and  then  occurred 
the  resolute  defence  of  Plevna  by  Osman  Pasha.  Many 
Englishmen  were  in  favour  of  supporting  Turkey,  and 
none  was  more  active  in  the  agitation  than  Captain 
Burnaby,  who  insisted  that  the  humiliation  of  Russia 
was  vital  to  the  salvation  of  India.  Though  the  British 
Government  decided  not  to  interfere  in  the  war,  Burnaby, 
whose  annual  winter  leave  of  absence  was  approaching, 
determined  to  go  out  to  see  the  fighting  ;  and  he  attained 
his  end  by  obtaining  an  honorary  post  as  "  travelling 
agent  to  the  Stafford  House  Committee,"  a  body  of  noble- 
men and  others  who  sent  out  surgeons  and  dressers 
to  the  seat  of  the  war.  But  he  revolved  a  much  bolder 
scheme,  for  it  was  his  determination,  if  possible,  to  cross 
the  Balkans  and  pass  through  the  Russian  lines  to  Plevna. 
Late  in  October,  and  accompanied  by  Radford,  he  set 
out  for  Constantinople,  and  on  November  28th  he  joined 
at  Adrianople  his  friend,  Valentine  Baker,  who  held 
command  in  the  Turkish  army. 

On  being  informed  of  Burnaby's  project,  Baker  pointed 
out  that  the  Russian  lines  had  been  drawn  so  closely 
round  Plevna,  that  it  would  be  all  but  impossible  to  pierce 

(133) 


134  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

them  ;  and  he  urged  his  friend  to  abandon  the  idea. 
Finally  Burnaby  consented  to  abide  by  the  decision 
of  the  Turkish  generalissimo,  Mehemet  Ali ;  but  in  the 
meantime  he  attended,  as  the  following  letter  to  the  Staf- 
ford House  Committee  (December  3rd)  shows,  to  his  hon- 
orary duties  : 

"  I  arrived,"  he  says,  "  at  Adrianople  last  week, 
and  visited  the  hospital.  You  will  be  glad  to  know  that 
every  attention  is  being  paid  to  the  wounded.  The 
wards  are  clean,  lofty  and  well-ventilated.  The  food  is 
of  good  quality,  and  there  was  an  expression  of  pleasure 
which  passed  over  the  poor  sufferers'  countenances  as  the 
English  surgeons  walked  around  the  wards  and  enquired 
after  each  man's  ailment.  I  arrived  in  Sofia  and  visited 
the  Stafford  House  wards.  The  wounded  men  have 
every  attention  paid  to  them  ;  they  are  as  well  looked 
after  as  they  would  be  in  any  London  hospital." 

The  main  body  of  the  Turkish  army  was  at  Kamarli,  a 
fortified  position  to  the  north  east  of  Sofia,  whence  its 
leader,  Shakir  Pasha,  had  hoped  to  lead  a  force  to  relieve 
Plevna.  At  Kamarli  Burnaby  met  Mehemet  Ali,  to 
whom  he  explained  his  project. 

"  You  are  an  English  officer — full  of  energy  and 
courage,"  replied  Mehemet  Ali,  "  and  I  should  be  the 
last  man  to  dissuade  you  from  any  enterprise  in  which 
you  might  usefully  show  those  qualities  ;  but  there  are 
plans  which  are  so  hazardous  that  it  becomes  folly  to 
attempt  them "  ;  and  he  urgently  advised  Burnaby 
to  give  up  all  thought  of  proceeding  further  with  the 
enterprise.  It  would  indeed  have  been  a  terribly  danger- 
ous exploit  for  any  man,  but  in  the  case  of  Burnaby, 
the  Englishman  whom,  above  all  others,  the  Russians 
hated,  it  would  have  been  simply  to  throw  his  life  away. 
Only  a  few  hours  after  this  conversation  the  news  came 
that  Osman  Pasha  had  been  forced  to  capitulate  with 
42,000  men  and  77  guns  ;  and  that  consequently  120,000 
more  Russians  would  be  free  to  march  against  the  al- 
ready outnumbered  army  of   Shakir  Pasha.    A  further 


SEAT    OF    THE    WAR    IN    TURKEY        135 

misfortune  to  the  Turks  was  the  recall  of  Mehemet  Ali,  who 

was  succeeded  by  the  incapable,  and  ill-starred  Suleiman 

Pasha.     Nothing  remained  but  for  Shakir  Pasha's  force 

of  14,000  men  to  retreat ;  and  the  duty  of  covering  this 

retreat,  that  is  to  say  of  holding  in  check  some,  50,000 

Russians  led  bv  Gourko  and  others,  fell  UDon  Baker, 

whose  total  force  consisted  of  only  2,400  men. 

It  was  in  vain  that  Baker  begged  for  reinforcements. 

Shakir  Pasha  resolutely  refused  them.     "  Not  a  man 

can    be    spared,"    was  the  reply.     "  You 

.     ,     A  ,     ..„     i      ./      «        .,      39— The  Battle  of 

must    hold    on,    and    till   death,    tor  the  Tashkesan 

safetv  of  the  whole  arrav  depends  upon  31st  Dec-> 

„  j       v  r  1877> 

you. 

Baker's  army — that  resolute  little  army  to  which  was 
confided  this  tremendous  task — had  taken  possession  of 
three  hills  which  looked  down  on  the  village  of  Tashke- 
san. Baker  conducted  operations  from  the  central  hill, 
and  by  his  side  stood  Burnaby  and  Radford,  the  former 
armed  with  a  long  and  formidable  staff,  with  which  he 
belaboured  the  shoulders  of  any  Turk  who  showed  him- 
self refractory.  From  his  eminence  Burnaby*  could  see 
the  enemy  advancing  steadily  across  the  plain — the 
infantry  in  long  lines,  the  cavalry  like  interminable  black 
dots  speckling  the  snow-covered  ground.  The  dots 
came  nearer  and  nearer.  The  Russians  had  seventeen 
guns  to  Baker's  seven.  The  firing  became  hot  and  fast, 
and  at  a  distance  of  about  500  yards,  "  the  whole  of  the 
Russian  Guard  broke  out  into  one  unanimous  cheer  of 
'  Hurrah  !  '  "  and  came  on  with  a  rush. 

As  the  cheer  died  away  the  Turks  appeared  to  be  sur- 
rounded, but  when  things  were  looking  their  blackest, 
Baker,  suddenly  turning  to  his  trumpeter,  shouted  : 
"  Sound  the  Turkish  cry — the  appeal  to  God  !  '  Then, 
as  if  with  one  voice,  there  burst  from  the  lips  of  the  2,400 
the  shout  Allah  il  allah  ! 

It  was  a  sensation,"  says  Burnaby,  "  worth  feeling  ; 
it  was  a  moment  worth  ten  of  the  best  vears  of  a  man's 

*  See  "  In  Memoriam  "  7th  Ed.  of  On  Horseback  through  Asia  Minor. 


136  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

life  ;  and  a  thrill  passed  through  my  heart  at  the  time — 
that  curious  sort  of  thrill — the  sensation  which  you  ex- 
perience when  you  read  of  something  noble  and  heroic, 
or  see  a  gallant  action  performed.  It  was  grand  to  hear 
these  2,400  Mahometans,  many  of  them  raw  levies  at 
the  time,  cheering  back  in  defiance  of  those  thirty 
picked  battalions,  the  choicest  troops  of  the  Czar." 

Presently  Baker's  aide-de-camp  rode  up  to  him  with 
the  announcement  "  All  is  lost  !  Shakir  Pasha  has  re- 
tired ;  he  has  abandoned  you.  We  shall  all  be  cap- 
tured." 

"It  is  not  so  hopeless  as  you  think,"  said  Baker. 
"  Anyhow,  we  shall  die  in  our  places,  rather  than  sur- 
render to  the  enemy." 

He  then  ordered  an  officer  on  his  staff  to  take  a  couple 
of  guns  to  a  position  a  little  to  the  left,  and  annoy  the 
masses  of  infantry  advancing  in  that  direction.  This 
was  done,  and  the  artillery  fire,  ably  directed  by  the 
officer,  did  enormous  execution  in  the  enemy's  ranks, 
and  checked  for  a  time  his  advance.  Another  officer  was 
ordered  to  lead  two  squadrons  of  horse  down  hill  in  the 
direction  of  some  Russian  cavalry  which  were  gradually 
advancing  towards  the  right.  The  movement  was 
skilfully  executed,  and  the  gallant  manner  in  which  this 
officer  led  his  men  against  a  force  ten  times  their  number, 
elicited  hearty  cheers  from  the  Turkish  infantry. 

But  the  enemy,  though  held  in  check  for  a  moment, 
was  not  baffled.  On  he  came  in  never-ending  streams 
of  skirmishers,  which,  as  they  reached  the  Turkish  posi- 
tion, formed  into  seas  of  desperate  soldiery.  An  ex- 
clamation from  Baker,  who  was  eagerly  scanning  the 
left  of  the  Turkish  position  with  his  field  glass,  called 
Burnaby's  attention  in  that  direction.  "  We  could  see 
our  men  retiring,"  he  says,  "  but  in  good  order.  They 
had  been  forced  back  by  sheer  weight  of  numbers.  It 
now  became  necessary  to  withdraw  our  right  and  centre 
from  our  rapidly  increasing  foe,  and  to  take  up  a  fresh 
defensive  line  half  a  mile  to  the  rear.     Four  guns  were 


SEAT    OF    THE    WAR    IN    TURKEY       137 

playing  with  unmistakable  effect  from  the  road  below 
vis  on  the  advancing  foe.  The  Russians  then  concen- 
trated a  very  heavy  cross  fire  on  this  point.  The  Turkish 
gunners  became  unsteady.  They  limbered  up  one  piece, 
and  commenced  retiring.  If  the  others  had  followed, 
the  day  would  probably  have  been  lost.  General  Baker 
saw  this  at  a  glance,  and  sticking  his  spurs  into  his  horse, 
he  galloped  down  the  slippery  height — his  animal  now 
up  to  the  haunches  in  the  snow,  then  sliding  down  the 
steepest  of  declivities— the  loose  stones  and  pebbles  fly- 
ing like  hail  in  the  faces  of  those  who  attempted  to  follow 
him.  He  rode  up  to  the  retreating  artillery  men,  made 
them  return  with  the  cannon  to  the  original  position, 
and  remained  there  for  more  than  an  hour,  in  the  most 
exposed  part  of  the  field — his  presence  so  encouraging  the 
gunners  that  they  redoubled  their  exertions,  and  fired 
so  fast  and  accurately  that  for  a  time  they  completely 
paralysed  the  Russians'  movements.  It  was  noon, 
below  were  wounded  men  and  corpses,  and  horses  without 
riders  galloping  to  and  fro.  Shakir  Pasha's  troops  could 
be  seen  in  the  distance,  in  full  retreat  across  the  plain  ; 
and  if  the  Russians  had  succeeded  in  breaking  through 
Baker's  line,  every  man  of  this  force  must  have  been 
lost. 

At  this  moment  Burnaby  was  riding  with  Mr.  Francis 
Francis,  of  the  Times.  As  they  were  ascending  the  height 
leading  to  the  second  position  Burnaby's  breastplate 
broke,  the  saddle  turned,  and  he  found  himself  in  the 
snow  ;  while  owing  to  a  sprained  ankle,  he  was  unable 
to  put  his  foot  to  the  ground.  The  Russians  were  not 
more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant,  and  their  bullets 
spattered  on  the  surrounding  rocks  ;  but  Mr.  Francis 
did  not  hesitate  a  moment.  Springing  from  his  horse, 
he  coolly  unwound  a  long  sash  from  his  waistcoat, 
mended  the  breastplate  with  it,  and  then  helped  Burnaby 
to  mount. 

The  Russian  officers,  seeing  the  Turkish  foe  escaping 
from  their  grasp,  again  cheered  on  their  men  to  the  attack 

12 


138  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

— though  with  thinned  ranks,  for  they  had  already 
sustained  a  loss  of  over  2,000.  The  afternoon  wore  on, 
Baker  sat  on  his  grey  horse  gazing  at  his  watch.  Would 
that  day  ever  finish  ?  Would  that  sun  ever  go  down  ? 
All  this  time  a  life  and  death  struggle  was  going  on 
between  the  two  forces.  It  was  the  last  position  the 
Turks  could  hold.  Every  moment  gained  was  so  much 
time  lost  to  the  enemy.  The  Russian  general  knew  this  : 
he  collected  his  men  for  a  final  effort.  His  forces  gallant- 
ly advanced  to  the  attack  ;  their  cheers  were  met  by 
counter  cheers.  Baker  was  in  the  foremost  and  most 
exposed  place,  standing  in  a  hail  of  rifle  bullets  and  shell 
fire,  encouraging  his  men.  The  Russians  came  up  the 
hill  at  the  double,  but  broke  with  the  Turkish  fire; 
and  the  Turks,  as  their  foes  retreated,  charged  with  the 
bayonet,  and  drove  them  into  the  valley  below.  The 
battle  was  over.  The  Turkish  losses  were  800,  the  Rus- 
sian about  3,000.  For  this  brilliant  feat  Baker  was 
thanked  by  the  Sultan,  and  promoted  to  the  rank  of 
ferik  or  Lieutenant-General. 

Owing  to  Radford's  activity,  Christmas  day  was  not 
allowed  to  pass  by  unhonoured.  With  some  trouble 
he  collected  the  materials  for,  and  made  a  plum  pudding, 
which,  with  a  turkey  procured  from  Sophia,  was  eaten 
by  Burnaby,  Baker  and  the  other  Englishmen  in  camp. 

From  Tashkesen  the  army  fell  back  to  Matchka,  where 
on  January  6th  another  battle  was  fought,  and  Burnaby 
and  Radford  helped  the  English  doctors,  Gill  and  Heath, 
to  dress  the  wounded.  Then  followed  the  terrible  re- 
treat over  the  cruel  Rhodope  mountains — through 
Otlukoi,  Bazardjik,  Philippolis  and  Stanamaki  to  Gum- 
ardjini.  The  sufferings  not  only  of  the  rank  and  file, 
but  also  of  the  officers,  in  this  God-forsaken  wild,  were 
beyond  description  terrible.  The  unceasing  frost  fell 
upon  them  like  pitiless  knives,  hunger  gnawed  their 
entrails.  One  day  Radford,  having  had  no  sleep 
for  more  than  forty  hours — being  all  that  time  on  the 
march  through  deep  snow — fell  asleep  on  his  horse  seven 


SEAT    OF    THE    WAR    IN    TURKEY       141 

times,  each  time  losing  his  balance  and  falling  to  the 
ground.  Often  the  faithful  fellow  would  bring  a  piece  of 
biscuit,  his  own  ration  for  the  day,  and  try  to  persuade 
Burnaby  that  he  had  already  eaten,  while  perhaps  food 
had  not  passed  his  lips  for  twenty-four  hours. 

On  one  occasion  Burnaby  saved  Baker's  life  by  rushing 
into  his  tent  with  great  armfuls  of  snow  and  extinguishing 
a  yorghan  which  had  caught  fire.  So  frightful  was  the 
cold  that  sometimes  forty  men  would  be  frozen  to  death 
in  one  night.  The  sole  consolation  of  the  famished  and 
weary  soldiery  was  the  knowledge  that  the  end  of  their 
dreadful  sufferings  was  steadily  approaching.  When 
the  van  gained  a  summit  near  Gumardjini,  the  sun  burst 
forth  in  yellow  glory,  and  from  throat  after  throat  rang 
the  hoarse  cry  of  "The  sea!  The  sea."  The  sight  was, 
indeed,  not  less  welcome  to  them  than  had  been,  centur- 
ies before,  a  similar  sight  to  Xenophon  and  his  Ten  Thou- 
sand. Cold  and  famine  having  done  their  worst,  to  them 
succeeded  poison.  By  whom  administered  was  never 
known,  but  after  a  dinner  at  Gumardjina  in  the  Greek 
Archbishop's  house,  Baker  and  Burnaby  were  seized  by 
excruciating  pains,  traceable  only  to  the  presence  of 
arsenic.  Thanks,  however,  to  the  skill  of  the  English 
doctors,  they  recovered,  and  a  few  hours  later  reached  the 
little  port  of  Kara-aghatch,  whence  they  were  conveyed 
by  a  transport  to  Constantinople. 

In  a  letter  home,  dated  17th  February  1878,  Burnaby 
writes,  "  Things  here  look  very  unsettled.  I  hope  that 
there  will  be  another  stand  made  by  the  Turks,  and  that 
the  Russians  will  not  be  allowed  to  enter  the  city.  How- 
ever, as  the  enemy  is  slowly  creeping  on,  and  the  Turks 
are  doing  nothing  to  stop  them,  the  Muscovite  will 
probably  be  here  before  long.  And  so  England  does  not 
mean  to  fight  for  Constantinople  after  all.  What  a 
wretched  lot  of  shopkeepers  we  are  !  The  country  would 
seem  to  have  lost  all  its  backbone." 

If  the  Turks  did  not  stop  the  Russians,  however, 
an    English    minister  —  Lord    Beaconsfield  —  did.       In 


142  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

Burnaby's  words,  "  The  Russian  troops  could  look  from  a 
distance  of  three  or  four  miles  at  the  gilded  minarets,  at 
the  pinnacles  of  the  houses  of  Constantinople.  They  saw 
their  coveted  prey  within  their  reach,  and  yet  they 
were  stopped  by  the  indomitable  pluck  and  resolution, 
and  energy  of  that  great  man,  our  Prime  Minister."* 

Burnaby's  period  of  leave  having  all  but  expired, 
he  and  Radford  at  once  set  out  for  England,  but  Radford, 
who  during  the  terrible  retreat  had  con- 
Radford,  tracted  typhus  fever,  was  already  marked 
22li87fieb''  ^or  death.  Everything  that  human  skill 
could  devise  was  brought  to  bear,  but  in 
vain  ;  and  to  use  the  words  of  his  afflicted  master,  "  forty- 
eight  hours  after  reaching  England's  shores,  one  of  the 
noblest  souls  that  ever  tenanted  a  human  frame  soared 
away  towards  that  unknown  bourn,  from  which  no  one 
can  ever  return,  "f 

After  Radford's  death  Burnaby  hastened  to  London, 
and  he  asked  his  brother  Evelyn  to  accompany  him 
to  the  funeral.  As  the  train  moved  out  of  Charing  Cross 
Station,  Evelyn,  who  was  of  a  nervous  temperament, 
was  startled  by  hearing  his  brother  say  coolly,  "  I  hope, 
Evelyn,  you  are  not  nervous,  but  Radford  died  of  the 
plague.  It  is  very  courageous  of  you,  seeing  that  I  am 
wearing  the  clothes  in  which  I  nursed  him."  Evelyn 
was  furious,  but  calmed  down  on  being  told  that  a  bath  at 
Dover  with  carbolic  acid  would  lessen  the  chances  of 
infection.  On  arriving  at  Dover  Burnaby  said  "  I  am 
sure  I  shall  break  down  at  the  funeral.  What  is  a  good 
medicine  to  keep  one's  nerves  quiet  ?  ' 

A  chemist,  on  being  consulted,  advised  and  supplied  a 
bottle  of  bromide.  The  coffin  was  conveyed  from  the 
barracks  to  the  cemetery  on  a  gun  carriage,  the  route 
being  lined  by  thousands  of  people  ;  and  Burnaby,  who 
sat  well  back  so  as  not  to  be  seen,  applied  his  lips  assidu- 
ously to  the  bottle.     But  in  spite  of  his  antidote    he 

♦Speech  at  Town  Hall,  Birmingham,  30th  Mar.,  1880. 

•fHe  died  in  Burnaby's  arms  at  the  Royal  Artillery  Barracks,  Dover. 


SEAT    OF    THE    WAR    IN    TURKEY       143 

sobbed  nearly  all  the  way  ;  and  he  quite  broke  down 
when  the  volleys  were  fired  over  the  grave.  "  In  Rad- 
ford," he  said,  "  I  have  lost  a  sincere  friend.  There 
are  not  many  men  who  would  give  their  life  for  a  friend, 
but  Radford  would  have  readily  given  his  for  his  mas- 
ter." 

Over  the  grave  Burnaby  erected  a  stone  bearing  the 
following  inscription  :  "  George  Radford,  Private  in  the 
Royal  Horse  Guards.  Died  at  Dover,  February  22nd, 
1878,  aged  42,  of  typhus  fever,  contracted  during  the  Re- 
treat of  Sulieman  Pasha's  Army  across  the  Balkans  in 
Turkey.  George  Radford  was  a  brave  soldier,  a  faith- 
ful servant,  and  as  true  as  steel.  This  stone  is  erected  to 
his  memory  by  the  man  whom  he  served  so  well." 

To  Radford's  widow  Burnaby  was  persistently  kind. 
He  set  her  up  in  business,  got  two  of  the  children  into 
schools,  and  found  a  place  in  a  good  family  for  the  eldest 
girl. 

In  June  1878,  some  three  months  after  peace  had  been 
proclaimed,  a  congress  of  the  Great  Powers,  held  at  Ber- 
lin, sanctioned  the  cession  to  Russia  of  a  part  of  Bessara- 
bia and  the  towns  of  Batoum,  Kars  and  Ardahan. 
Roumania,  Servia  and  Montenegro  were  created  indepen- 
dent kingdoms,  and  the  administration  of  Cyprus  was 
transferred  to  England,  who  also  assumed  a  kind  of  pro- 
tectorate over  Asiatic  Turkey.  Burnaby  never  ceased 
to  regret  that  England  had  not  from  the  first  acted  differ- 
ently. "  Had  she,  standing  firm,"  he  said,  "  informed 
Russia  that  the  invasion  of  Turkey  would  mean  war  with 
England,  no  war  would  have  taken  place."  Still,  events 
having  followed  the  course  they  did,  he  considered  that 
Lord  Beaconsfield  had,  at  the  congress,  done  tolerably 
for  England.  "  If  we  are  wise,"  he  remarked,  "  we  shall 
insist :  (1)  that  our  protectorate  of  Asia  Minor  shall  be 
real,  and  not  merely  nominal ;  (2)  that  a  well  organized 
gendarmerie  under  British  officers  shall  take  the  place 
of  the  inefficient  Zaptiehs  ;  (3)  that  all  the  military  com- 
mands in  Asia  Minor  shall  be  held  by  Englishmen.     This 


144  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

done  we  can  laugh  at  Russia,  and  unless  it  is  done  Russian 
intrigue  in  Asia  Minor  will  soon  cause  more  trouble." 
He  also  recommended  a  firm  policy  in  Afghanistan. 
"  Russian  agents,"  he  said,  "  have  held  out  to  the  Afghans 
the  loot  of  the  opulent  cities  of  British  India  ;  let  us 
hold  out  to  them  the  loot  of  Moscow  and  St.  Peters- 
burg."* 

*  See  Preface  to  7th  Edition  of  On  Horseback  through  Asia  Minor. 


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CHAPTER    X. 

february  1878 10th    december  1881. 

Marriage  and  the  Birmingham  Election, 
bibliography  i 

8.  Letters  to  the  Times  on  Free  Trade,  15th  January, 

1879,  and  subsequently. 

9.  Letters  to  the  Birmingham  Daily  Gazette  (in  1880  and 

after)  and  the  Birmingham  Post. 

The  Conservatives  had  ruled  the  country  for  five  years, 

a  General  Election  impended,  and  Burnaby  believed  it  his 

„     „  duty  to  try  his  utmost  to  give  them  a  new 

41- Candidate  J       „     J  „.  s    ,       .        ,. 

for         lease    of    power.     His    travels    m    distant 

Birmingham,  countries  had  convinced  him  that  one  of 
Mr. J. B.Stone.  _.'.,,  t 

England  s    most    pressing    needs     was    a 

vigorous  foreign  policy,  and  that  the  appropriation  of  the 
reins  of  office  by  so  timid  and  vacillating  a  minister  as 
Mr.  Gladstone  would  be  nothing  short  of  a  national 
calamity.  Having,  with  characteristic  daring,  conceived 
the  idea  of  attacking  the  biggest  stronghold  of  his 
antagonists,  namely,  the  town  of  Birmingham,  he  com- 
municated his  desire  to  Sir  William  Hart-Dyke,  the  Con- 
servative whip,  who  at  once  consulted  Mr.  (now  Sir) 
J.  Benjamin  Stone,*  one  of  the  most  influential  of  the 
Birmingham  Conservatives.  '*  Birmingham,"  said  Sir 
William,  "  is  a  place  that  appreciates  distinctive  charac- 
ter, and  I  think  Captain  Burnaby's  personality  would 
appeal  to  Birmingham  people,  owing  to  the  celebrity  he 

*  It  is  the  custom  to  associate  Sir  Benjamin  Stone  with  photography, 
but  it  is,  nevertheless,  as  a  scientist  and  an  archaeologist  that  he  will  be 
chiefly  remembered. 

(M7) 


148  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

obtained  in  going  out  in  such  difficult  circumstances  to 
Khiva." 

In  the  end  Sir  William  suggested  that  Mr.  Stone  and 
Mr.  R.  W.  Hanbury,  the  member  for  Tamworth,  should 
call  on  Captain  Burnaby  and  discuss  the  matter  with 
him. 

On  being  shown  into  his  room  at  the  Horse  Guards 
the  deputation,  who  found  him  sitting,  in  his  shirt  sleeves, 
on  a  bedside,  explained  their  errand,  and  after  a  few 
minutes'  conversation  they  promised  to  submit  his  name 
to  the  committee  of  the  Birmingham  Conservative  Club 
as  that  of  a  candidate  for  the  representation  of  the  town 
in  the  Conservative  interest.  A  little  later  Burnaby  was 
invited  to  dine  with  the  club  ;  and  in  preparation  for  the 
event  he  composed  a  long  speech,  learnt  it  by  heart, 
and  repeated  it,  almost  verbatim,  to  Mr.  T.  Gibson 
Bowles  one  evening  in  St.  James's  Street.  Mr.  Bowles's 
encomiums  delighted  him,  and  in  his  success  he  seemed 
to  be  separated  by  whole  years  from  the  state  in  which  he 
had  found  himself  when  he  entered  the  house.  A  few 
days  afterwards  when  on  a  visit  to  Mr.  Stone,  at  Erding- 
ton  Grange,  near  Birmingham,  he  repeated  the  feat ; 
and  his  speech  having  given  satisfaction,  the  Birmingham 
Conservatives  formally  adopted  him  as  their  candidate* 
— a  colleague  for  him  being  found  in  the  person  of  the 
Hon.  A.  C.  G.  Calthorpe.|  For  some  weeks  he  had 
suffered  both  in  health  and  spirits,  for,  like  his  father, 
he  was  sometimes  afflicted  with  the  melancholy  of  the 
padge-owl,  but  all  his  atrabilious  humours  vanished  at 
the  thought  of  the  approaching  hurly-burly.  He  saw 
everything  in  a  golden  mist,  and  he  entered  upon  the  con- 
flict with  the  rapture,  the  hilarious  joy  he  used  to  feel 
when,  as  a  school  boy,  he  looked  forward  to  the  dissipa- 
tions of  Bedford  Fair.  Henceforward  he  was  a  frequent 
guest    at    Erdington    Grange,    where   he   composed,    or 

*Name  submitted  to  the  Birmingham  Conservative  Club,   5th  June, 
187s.     He  was  adopted  as  candidate  after  July  23rd. 

f  Now  Lord  Calthorpe. 


SIR    J.    BENJAMIN    STONE 


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MARRIAGE,  6c  BIRMINGHAM  ELECTION   153 

burnished,  most  of  his  speeches,  which  he  invariably, 
before  delivering  them  in  public,  recited  to  Mr.  Stone, 
and  with  scarcely  a  single  deviation  from  the  manuscript, 
although,  when  reported  they,  as  a  rule,  rilled  five  col- 
umns of  a  newspaper.  Mr.  Stone  accompanied  Captain 
Burnaby  to  most  of  his  meetings,  and  he,  Mr.  Joseph 
Rowlands,*  Mr.  J.  Satchell  Hopkins,!  Mr.  W.  H.  Green- 
ing, J  and  Mr.  W.  Barton,  all  of  whom  fought  doughtily 
for  the  cause,  figure  frequently  in  the  cartoons  of  The 
Dart\\  and  The  Oivl.§ 

"  Why  do  you  not  try  at  some  place  less  difficult  than 
Birmingham  ?  "  enquired  one  of  Burnaby's  friends.     "  If 
you  were  to  tackle  some  county  constitu- 
ency— some  peddling  borough- — you  would,  42— Burnaby 
with  your  reputation,  get  in  easily."  and  GIadstone- 

'  I  never  fly  at  small  game,"  replied 
Burnaby  ;  "  besides  if  I  were  to  win  Birmingham,  I 
should  be  offered  a  place  in  the  cabinet."  To  others  who 
lamented  the  hopelessness  of  the  fight,  he  said,  "  I  have 
a  better  chance  than  you  suppose.  The  labouring  classes 
are  beginning  to  find  out  that,  after  all,  the  landed  classes 
are  their  natural  allies  ;  and  with  the  help  of  the  Conserva- 
tive working  man  I  shall  yet  carry  Birmingham." 

Burnaby's  early  speeches  were  mainly  condemnatory 
of  Mr.  Gladstone's  predilection  for  Russia ;  and  a 
damaging  statement  which  he  made  against  Mr.  Glad- 
stone on  29th  October,  1878,  led  the  latter  to  enquire 
upon  what  foundation  Burnaby  rested  his  allegations. 
So  Burnaby  hurried  to  the  Reading  Room  at  the  Junior 
Carlton  Club,  and  raised  round  himself  a  barricade 
formed  of  the  immense  files  of  the  Times.     After  a  while, 

*  Chairman  of  the  Executive  Committee  of  the  Birmingham  Con- 
servative Association. 

t  President  of  the  Birmingham  Conservative  Association. 
%  A  prominent  advocate  of  Bible  Teaching  in  the  Schools, 

||  Drawn  by  G.  F.  Sershall  and  E.  C.  Mountfort.  The  latter  is  still 
living. 

§  They  were  by  George  H.  Bernasconi,  who  we  believe,  is  dead.  His 
son  draws  in  his  father's  style.  The  Owl  was  started  in  1879,  so  it  is  now 
in  its  30th  year. 


154  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

looking  over  the  top  of  his  fortress  and  addressing  Mr. 
Rose  Norton,  he  said,  "  Mr.  Gladstone  has  written  to  me 
denving  that  he  ever  said  the  Turks  should  be  driven  bag 
and  baggage  out  of  Europe,  and  I  am  hunting  for  the 
speech." 

"  Mr.  Gladstone  did  not  say  that,"  observed  Mr.  Nor- 
ton. "  The  nearest  approach  to  such  a  statement  occurs 
in  a  pamphlet  of  his,  entitled  Bulgarian  Horrors.'" 

Burnaby  procured  the  pamphlet,  and  after  reading  it, 
replied  to  Mr.  Gladstone  candidly  admitting  his  error  ; 
and  Mr.  Gladstone  wrote  again  to  thank  Burnaby 
for  a  letter  exhibiting  all  the  frankness  of  a  soldier. 
Shortly  afterwards  the  Prince  of  Wales  (the  present  King) 
marched  with  the  Blues,  as  their  Colonel  in  Chief,  from 
Trinity  Church,  Windsor,  to  the  Barracks,  where  there 
was  a  parade  ;  and  Burnaby  having  noticed  Mr.  Glad- 
stone among  the  spectators,  invited  him  to  stay  and  lunch 
with  the  prince  and  the  officers. 

Among  the  more  sturdy  of  the  Birmingham  Conserva- 
tive organizations  was  the  Sparkbrook  Club,  of  which 
Burnaby  was  president :  Mr.  Robert  J.  Buckley,  the 
musical  critic,  now  so  well  known  as  the  biographer  of 
Sir  Edward  Elgar,  being  one  of  the  most  active  mem- 
bers of  the  committee. 

When  Burnaby  visited  the  Sparkbrook  Club  Room, 
he  had  to  stoop  low  in  the  doorway  to  save  his  head, 
and  it  is  recalled  that  when  he  had  signed  the  book  he 
said,  addressing  the  secretary,  "  D d  bad  hand,  eh  !  ' 

"  No,"  was  the  reply,  "  but  a  small  hand  for  so  large 
a  man." 

"  How  thoroughly,"  observed  Mr.  Buckley,  "  Burnaby 
enjoyed  the  quite  hopeless  fight  against  such  powerful 
Liberals  as  Bright,  Chamberlain  and  Muntz  !  How 
good  humoured  were  his  remarks  concerning  his  oppo- 
nents !  '  Muntz,'  he  said,  '  always  tops  the  poll,  but 
that  is  only  natural  seeing  that  he  has  the  least  ability. 
We  may  not  be  able  to  get  in  first,  but  we'll  give  them  a 
run.'  "     Once  when  he  was  speaking  in  the  Town  Hall 


Mrs.   FRED    BURNABY 


By  permission  of  Mrs.  Aubrey  Le  Blond 
(formerly  Mrs.  Fred  Burnaby). 


MARRIAGE,  &  BIRMINGHAM  ELECTION   157 

the  vast  crowds  outside  amused  themselves  by  singing, 
hooting  and  groaning. 

"  Poor  chaps,"  said  Burnaby,  "  they  brag  of  their 
freedom  while  they  want  to  intimidate  persons  who 
dare  to  hold  opposite  opinions.  They're  singing '  Britons 
never  shall  be  slaves,'  while  they're  led  by  the  nose  by 
the  caucus  which  consists  of  the  myrmidons  of  Chamber- 
lain, who  has  so  perfectly  succeeded  in  hood-winking  the 
Birmingham  people." 

At  a  subsequent  meeting  held  in  the  town  a  number 
of  his  enemies  made  so  deafening  a  noise  that  his 
voice  was  quite  drowned.  He  was  equal  to  the 
occasion,  however,  for  he  at  once  sat  down  in  front 
of  the  audience,  took  out  a  tobacco  pouch  and  pipe, 
and  having  struck  a  match  on  his  foot,  smoked  quite 
at  his  ease,  while  his  opponents,  most  of  whom  were  in 
the  pit,  imitated  the  roaring  of  a  menagerie. 

"  I  shall  make  my  speech,"  remarked  Burnaby  during 
a  lull,  "  if  I  sit  here  for  a  week  "  ;  and  he  did  make  it. 

Among  the  posters  which  appeared  on  every  local 
hoarding,  was  one  representing  a  soldier  receiving  the 
lash,  supposed  to  represent  the  kind  of  treatment 
meted  to  the  populace  become  soldiers  by  aristocratic 
officers  like  Burnaby.  At  one  of  the  meetings  this  poster 
was  exhibited. 

"  What  about  this  ?  "  shouted  the  man  who  displayed 
it. 

There  was  an  uproar  at  once.  "  Put  him  out  !  " 
shouted  the  Conservatives. 

"  No,  no,"  said  Burnaby  with  a  strong  voice  dominat- 
ing the  confusion,  and  waving  his  hands  in  sign  of  silence. 
"  The  gentleman  has  asked  a  question,  and  deserves  a 
fair  reply.  He  wishes  to  know  what  the  picture  repre- 
sents. I  understand  it  is  intended  to  pourtray  me  as 
giving  a  good  hiding  to  Chamberlain." 

Of  course  everybody  laughed,  and  Burnaby  went  on 
to  point  out  the  difference  between  Gladstone  and  Dis- 
raeli in  dealing  with  the  Russians.     "  Gladstone,"  he  said, 


158  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

"  made  a  fine  speech  and  did  nothing,  Disraeli  said  noth- 
ing but  sent  a  fleet  to  Besika  Bay." 

Naturally  the  Liberals  did  not  receive  these  attacks 
without  retaliation  ;  and  Mr.  Chamberlain,  in  particular, 
who  called  Burnaby  Captain  Bobadil,  replied  with  many 
a  caustic  remark.  "  We  have  all  heard,"  he  once  re- 
marked, "  of  Burnaby's  ride  into  Khiva,  but  that  will 
seem  nothing  when  compared  with  his  run  out  of  Bir- 
mingham." 

Though  these  early  speeches  of  Burnaby  had  all  been 
repeated  from  memory,  it  must  not  be  supposed  that  he 
followed  his  manuscript  slavishly.  The  numerous  inter- 
ruptions provoked  many  an  impromptu  and  racy  digres- 
sion, and  his  nimble  wit  and  other  natural  gifts  gave 
him  all  the  force  of  an  extempore  speaker.  The  antagon- 
ism of  his  audiences,  indeed,  helped  rather  than  hindered 
him.  He  was  always  self-collected  on  the  platform, 
he  discontinued  his  habit,  for  which  he  was  taken  to  task 
by  the  Owl,*  of  interspersing  his  speeches  with  slang, 
and  his  delivery  improved  rapidly  ;  but  it  was  not  until 
three  years  later  that  he  developed  the  entirely  new  kind 
of  political  oratory,  which  held  his  hearers  spell-bound 
and  pulverised  all  opposition. 

In  the  meantime  he  had  proposed  marriage  to  a  young 
Irish  heiress,   Miss   Elizabeth  Hawkins- Whitshed,   only 
daughter    of    Sir    St.    Vincent    Bentinck 
43— Marriage,      Hawkins- Whitshed,      Bart.,      of      Killon- 
1879.    '     carrick,    County   Wicklow,    a  lady   whose 
piquant  beauty,  charm  of  manner  and  in- 
tellectual gifts,  had  from  his  first  acquaintance  with  her, 
held  him  in  chains  ;  and  the  marriage    took    place    at 
St.  Peter's  Church,  Onslow  Gardens.     Among  the  wed- 
ding presents  was  a  gift  from  the  Prince  of  Wales.     At 
the  end  of  August  the  bride  and  bridegroom  paid  a  visit 
to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Stone,  and  on  the  last  day  of  that  month 
they  were  feted  in  the  Lower  Grounds,  Aston — the  Mar- 
quis of  Hertford,  Lord  Norton,  the  Hon.  A.  G.  C.  and 

*  See  Cartoon,  29th  July,  1880. 


THE    BIRMINGHAM     ELECTION. 

From    The  Dart,  29th   Nov.,   1879. 

Don  Quixote  (Captain  Burnaby)  :  Gave  Bright  a  jacketing.    "  Eh,  my  trusty  ?  Was 

I  right  ?  " 

Sancho  Panza    (Mr.  J.  B.  Stone):   "  My   lord,  my  lord,  you'll  come  to  grief  if  you 
measure  lances  with  Sir  John  de  Bright ." 

Drawn  by  G.  F.  Sersliall. 


MARRIAGE,  &  BIRMINGHAM  ELECTION  163 

Mrs.  Calthorpe,  Mr.  Saul  Isaac,  M.P.,  Mr.  S.  S.  Lloyd, 
M.P.,  the  Hon.  C.  L.  and  Mrs.  Adderley,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Stone,  Colonel  and  Mrs.  Ratcliffe,  and  many  other  well- 
known  persons  being  present. 

A  few  days  after  this  event  Major*  and  Mrs.  Burnaby 
set  out  for  Algiers,  but  between  Paris  and  Marseilles  they 
were  snow-bound,  and  Mrs.  Burnaby  fell  ill.  On  reaching 
Algiers  she  was  discovered  to  be  in  the  early  stage  of 
consumption,  and,  in  obedience  to  doctors'  orders, 
Burnaby  took  her  to  Switzerland — the  sea  journey  being 
made  in  the  company  of  his  old  friend,  Captain  Colvile, 
who  was  also  travelling  with  a  newly-wedded  wife. 
Mrs.  Burnaby  soon  benefited  from  the  Alpine  air,  and  she 
has  since  spent  much  of  her  life  in  Switzerland. 

Leaving  Mrs.  Burnaby  at  a  sanitorium,  Burnaby  re- 
turned to  England,  and  after  delivering  at  Birmingham 
a  speech  in  which  he  advocated  a  system  of 

Protection  as  the  only  means  of  enabling  M— Comedy  at 

J  -ii  ffolyer- 

Great     Britain    to    compete    with    other  hampton. 

States,  he  turned  aside  to  help  the  Conserv- 
atives of  Wolverhampton.  The  meeting  was  held  in  the 
Agricultural  Hall  ;  but  as  his  intonation  differed  from 
that  to  which  many  of  his  hearers  were  accustomed, 
they  fell  foul  of  him,  and  greeted  his  references  to  India 
and  Candahar  with  interrupting  ejaculations  of  "  h'yar,  h' 
yar  !  lawidaw." 

Having  fixed  his  eye  on  a  couple  of  the  funny  ones, 
Burnaby  called  out,  "  Pass  those  two  men  up  to  the  front 
h'yah,  will  you." 

Sport  having  been  scented,  the  two  unfortunates  were 
immediately  hustled  forward,  looking  very  uncomfort- 
able. Burnaby  leaned  over  the  platform,  and  having 
obtained  a  firm  grip  of  each  by  the  collar,  he  lifted  them 
up,  held  them  out  straight,  and  carried  them  so  suspended 
to  the  back  of  the  platform.  Depositing  one  in  a  chair, 
he  said,  "  You  sit  there,  little  man! "  and  then  carrying 

♦Major,  nth  September,  1879;  Lieutenant-Colonel,  1880;  Colonel, 
1884. 


164  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

the  other,  still,  at  the  end  of  his  extended  arm,  three 
yards  further  he  dropped  him  into  another  chair  with, 
"  and  you  sit  there,  little  man." 

The  effect  was  electric,  the  cheering  loud  and.  long. 
Burnaby  on  that  occasion  outdid  himself  as  a  speaker  ; 
there  had  never  been  a  more  successful  political  meeting 
in  the  town,  and  the  result  was  the  return  of  the  first 
Conservative  member  for  Wolverhampton. 

Burnaby  also  assisted  his  cousin,  General  Burnaby, 
and  Lord  John  Manners,   who  were  contesting  North 
Leicestershire  ;  and  he  spoke  at  Leicester 
45— A  Merry       where,   in  his  huge  great  coat  which  he 
Leicester,      wore  out  of  doors  even  in  mild  weather, 
he  was  a  familiar  figure.     On  one  occa- 
sion  when  he  rose  to  address  a  meeting  held  in  the 
Temperance  Hall,  the  rear  of  which  had  been  monopol- 
ised by  a  party  of  roughs,  the  place  suddenly  became  a 
pandemonium  ;  and  neither  he  nor  any  of  his  friends 
could  obtain  a  hearing.     Presently  his  eye  flashed,  his 
cheek  flushed,  and,  amid  a  partial  lull  in  the  boohing 
and  jeering,  he  drew  up  his  burly  frame  to  its  full  height, 
and  boldly  announced  that  unless  the  noise  immediately 
ceased,  he  would  himself  throw  the  disturbers  out  of  the 
room.     As  the  threat  was  met  with  derisive  laughter 
and  even  challenges,  he  buttoned  his  coat,  and  despite 
the  entreaties  of  his  friends,  he  quitted  the  platform, 
stalked  down  the  hall,  and  demanded  to  be  shown  the 
ringleader.     Then  singling  out  his  man  he  ploughed  his 
way  through  the  crowd  and  felled  him  with  a  terrific  blow. 
This  was  no  sooner  done  than  the  friends  of  the  fallen 
man  rushed  at  Burnaby,  who,  revelling  in  the  melee, 
struck  out  right  and  left — and  every  man  who  came  with- 
in reach  of  his  terrible  fist  fell  sprawling — so  that  in  a 
minute  or  two  there  was  a  clear  space  of  six  or  seven 
feet  around  him.     By  this  time,  however,  the  damaged 
members  of  the  gang  had  thought  it  prudent  to  retire 
from  the  hall,  and  Burnaby  ploughed  his  way  back  to  the 
platform  amid  a  storm  of  cheers.     The  rest  of  the  meeting 


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MARRIAGE,  &  BIRMINGHAM  ELECTION   167 

was  of  an  uneventful  nature  ;  but  when  all  was  over 
Burnaby,  on  descending  the  steps  of  the  hall,  found  a 
number  of  roughs  waiting  for  him.  On  the  appearance, 
however,  of  his  colossal  form,  their  valour  forsook  them, 
and  he  sauntered  in  his  huge  great  coat,  head  and  shoul- 
ders above  the  tallest  of  them,  down  the  street  and  to- 
wards his  hotel. 

After  one  of  the  Birmingham  meetings,  as  he  was  leav- 
ing the  Aston  Grounds,  someone  threw  a  potato  and  hit 
him,  but  though  he  looked  round,  he  said  nothing. 
A  crowd  of  ruffians,  however,  having  followed  him  to  his 
cab,  where  they  incommoded  him  by  shouting,  swearing, 
flinging  insults  and  boohing,  he  stretched  out  his  left  arm, 
and"  with  the  words  "  Get  away  !  "  he  turned  smartly 
round  and  tumbled  four  or  five  of  them  into  a  writhing 
confused  heap.  As  he  took  his  seat  he  said,  looking  down 
at  the  tangle  of  arms  and  legs,  "  I  hope  I  haven't  broken 
any  of  the  beggars." 

When  Parliament  was  dissolved  Burnaby  was  in 
France,  and  the  Birmingham  Conservatives  sent  for  him 
post  haste.  He  arrived  on  March  15th,  46—  The 
to  be  met  on  the  New  Street  platform  by  Bi^icntf0hna;m 
the  leaders  of  the  party  ;  and  from  that  31st  March, 
day  forward  he  and  Mr.  Calthorpe  gave  1880' 

themselves  no  rest.  At  one  of  the  meetings  there  was 
continual  interruption,  and  at  last  Burnaby  shouted  out, 
"  You  are  the  friends  of  Russia  ;  you  are  the  friends  of 
despots ;  you  are  not  Englishmen,  you  are  simply 
tools  in  the  hands  of  a  despotic  caucus."  At  another 
meeting,  at  which  he  appeared  in  a  vivid  green  tie,  as 
an  insinuating  compliment  to  the  Irish  voters,  there 
was  more  rioting,  and  the  Conservatives,  on  the  principle 
that  it  is  better  to  turn  out  wrong  person  rather  than  no 
person,  seized  a  dirty,  though,  nevertheless,  quite  inno 
cent  scarecrow  of  a  man  and  hustled  him  from  the  room. 
Burnaby,  however,  having  expressed  his  regret  that  it 
had  been  necessary  to  expel "  the  gentleman  with  a  black 
face,"  his  opponents  were  mollified,  and  he  was  allowed 


168  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

to  expend  whatever  energy  he  pleased  on  Russia  and  the 
caucus.  When  his  enemies  retaliated  by  charging  him, 
once  more,  with  being  an  advocate  of  flogging  in  the  army 
— he  met  the  slander  by  a  letter  addressed  to  the  Bir- 
mingham Daily  Gazette  (29th  March  1880)  :  "  Infamous 
falsehoods,"  he  said,  "  are  being  circulated  by  members 
of  the  Liberal  Association.  They  state  that  I  have 
advocated  the  use  of  the  cat  on  the  private  soldier. 
This  is  a  gross  misrepresentation.  I  have  said  that  if 
the  strongest  opponent  of  the  lash  was  a  soldier,  and  his 
insubordinate  disposition  caused  him  to  commit  a  breach 
of  discipline  in  the  face  of  the  enemy,  and  he  had  to  choose 
between  twenty-five  lashes  or  death,  he  would  prefer 
the  whip  to  undergoing  the  extreme  penalty." 

Once  when  asked  at  a  meeting  whether  he  had  not 
advocated,  and  even  ordered  the  lash,  he  said  from  the 
platform,  "  Damned  lie,  that's  my  answer."  On  another 
occasion  he  replied  to  a  heckler,  "  Anything  about  politics 
is  in  order,  but  to  questions  regarding  my  personal 
character  I  shall  not  repty.  If  it  won't  stand  alone, 
it  must  fall.  I  shall  never  run  to  its  support  " — surely  a 
fine  and  dignified  retort,  and  worthy  of  any  hero  in 
Plutarch  or  Sallust.  For  long  the  Radical  party  hated 
Burnaby,  with  a  blind,  rancorous  and  furious  hatred.  A 
town  of  factories  and  factory  folk,  of  smoke,  blacks  and 
sweat,  of  wheels  innumerable  and  the  noise  of  wheels, 
had  no  sympathy — -no  fellow  feeling — with  the  essenced 
aristocrat,  the  carpet  knight,  the  heartless  martinet, 
the  bloody  lash-advocate,  as  they  had  been  taught  to 
regard  him.  "  Indeed,"  says  one  of  Burnaby 's  friends, 
'  there  was  no  lie  too  stupid,  no  fabrication  too  gross, 
for  his  political  opponents."  But  little  by  little  his 
splendid  personality  told  on  them,  they  abandoned,  one 
by  one,  their  cherished  chimeras,  and  at  last  they  got 
really  to  like  him.     Nomination  day*  passed  by  without 

*  Burnaby  was  nominated  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Stone,  J. P.,  Mr.  John  Lowe,  J. P., 
Mr  S.  S.  Lloyd,  Mr.  G.  C.  Adkins,  Mr.  S.  Hurst,  Mr.  J.  D.  Gillispie,  Mr. 
(afterwards  Sir)  James  Sawyer,  Mr.  John  Flynn. 


THE    BIRMINGHAM     ELECTION. 

From  The  Dart,  14th  Feb.,  1880. 

A  Valentine  to  the  Hon.   A.   C.   G.   Calthorpe. 

Nurse  Stone  :   "  There's  a  good  little  boy.     Hell  soon  begin  to  talk  !  Ducky  ! 
Papa  Burnabv  :  "  And  then  won't  he  crow  !     Give  him  a  ridey  pidey  !   there  ! 
Drawn  by  G.  F.  Sershall. 


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MARRIAGE,  &  BIRMINGHAM  ELECTION   173 

incident,  for  the  Liberals  were  assured  of  victory,  owing 
to  their  confidence  that  the  order  of  their  leaders,  'l  Vote 
as  you  are  told,"  would  be  strictly  obeyed.  Some  wards 
were  bidden  to  poll  for  Bright  and  Muntz,  others  for 
Muntz  and  Chamberlain,  and  others  for  Bright  and  Cham- 
berlain. This  they  religiously  did  ;  and  the  result  of  the 
poll,  which  took  place  on  March  31st,  was  as  follows  : 

Muntz,  P.  H.  (L.) 22,969 

Bright,  John  (L.)    22,079 

Chamberlain,  J.  (L.)    19,544 

Burnaby,  Major  (C.)    15,735 

Calthorpe,  Hon.  A.  C.  G.  (C.)    14,308 

Burnaby  was  defeated,  but  he  had  shown  splendid 
fight,  and  his  party  was  soon  to  reap  the  benefits  that  re- 
sulted from  his  exertions.  Sir  James  Sawyer,  who  suc- 
ceeded Mr.  J.  Satchell  Hopkins  as  President  of  the  Bir- 
mingham Conservative  Association,  writes  :  "  Captain 
Burnaby's  service  to  Birmingham  was  great.  Although 
unsuccessful  in  his  own  strenuous  effort  to  give  local  re- 
presentation in  Parliament  to  the  Conservative  party,  his 
work  led  to  the  success  of  Mr.  Henry  Matthews  (now 
Lord  Llandaff),  who  was  returned  for  East  Birmingham 
in  1886,  and  at  once  appointed  Home  Secretary." 

On  10th  May,  1880,  Mrs.  Burnaby  presented  her  hus- 
band with  a  son,  who  received  the  names  Harry 
Arthur  Gustavus  St.  Vincent.*  "  I  have  a  son,"  said 
Burnaby  incidentally  to  Mr.  Wright,  "  and  he  bids  fair 
to  be  as  big  as  his  father." 

*  Harry,  after  Mr.  Harry  Villebois,  one  of  his  godfathers  ;  Arthur, 
after  Mrs.  Burnaby's  cousin,  the  Duke  of  Portland,  another  god-father  ; 
Gustavus,  after  his  grandfather  Burnaby  ;  St.  Vincent  after  Mrs. 
Burnaby's  father.  About  this  time  Burnaby  removed  from  29,  Emperor's 
Gate,  to  18,  Charles  Street. 


K  2 


CHAPTER    XI. 

10th  december  1881— 4th  march  1882. 

The  Powell  and  the  Brine  and  Simmons'  Attempts 
to  Cross  the  Channel. 

Burnaby  was  not  so  absorbed  in  politics  as  to  forget  his 

old    love,    ballooning.     For    years    one    aeronaut    after 

„     _     .,_,        another   had   tried   to   cross   the   English 
47 —  Terrible 
Death  of  Mr.    Channel  by  balloon,  but  only  to  meet  with 

Walter  Powell,  faimre.     One  of  the  most  notable   of   the 
10th  Dec,  1881. 

attempts  was  that  made  by  M.     Durouf 

and  his  wife,  who  ascended  at  Calais,  31st  August,  1874, 
late  in  the  evening.  After  drifting  about  all  night  they 
dropped  into  the  German  ocean  whence  after  great  priva- 
tions, they  were  rescued  by  a  fishing  smack.  Among 
the  sympathisers  of  the  unfortunate  couple  who,  owing 
to  the  destruction  of  their  balloon,  found  themselves  in 
difficult  straits,  was  Captain  Burnaby,  who  raised  con- 
tributions for  them  ;  and  when,  later,  they  made  an 
ascent  from  the  Crystal  Palace  in  a  balloon  kindly  lent 
by  Mr.  Coxwell,  he  helped  still  further  to  swell  their 
pockets  by  becoming  one  of  the  voyagers.  Besides  mak- 
ing occasional  ascents  at  this  time  himself,  he  was  pre- 
sent at  all  the  principal  ascents  made  by  others.  He  took 
a  keen  interest  in  the  balloon  race  which  occurred  on 
4th  September,  1880,  when  eight  aerostats  competed — 
the  winner  being  The  Owl,  which  carried  Mr.  Wright, 
Commander  Cheyne,  Mr.  Pullan,  and  an  American  gentle- 
man ;  and  also  in  the  International  Contest,  on  October 
21st  of  the  same  year,  between  England,  represented  by 
Mr.  Wright  in  the  Eclipse,  and  France,  represented  by 

(174) 


ATTEMPTS    TO    CROSS    THE    CHANNEL    175 

M.  de  Fonvielle,  in  the  Academie  ef  Aerostation  Met&r- 
ologique  de  France.  The  Frenchman  descended  in  the 
mud  off  Hayling  island,  and  Mr.  Wright,  who  was  pro- 
claimed winner,  at  a  spot  on  dry  land  a  mile  distant. 
After  the  race  one  of  Burnaby's  friends  wrote  to  Mr. 
Wright  :  "  I  knew  you  could  do  the  job  well,  and  I  told 
the  general  that  the  Frenchman  would  never  follow  you 
about,  and  if  he  only  went  on  long  enough  that  you  would 
drown  him,  and  you  devilish  near  did  as  far  as  I  can  make 
out.  How  sick  those  French  coves  must  have  been! 
How  about  Lord  Coxwell,  he  must  be  down  a  peg  I  should 
think  ?  " 

As  we  look  back  on  those  times,  the  old  rivalries  be- 
tween Mr.  WTright  and  Mr.  Coxwell,  and  French  and  Eng- 
lish are  sufficiently  amusing  ;  but  one  fact  must  not  be 
lost  sight  of  in  connection  with  this  contest — namely, 
that  the  Frenchman's  ambition  evidently  was  not  only 
to  beat  Mr.  Wright,  but  to  cross  the  channel,  and  thus 
accomplish  what  the  Duroufs  had  failed  to  do  in  1874. 
He  approached  as  near  to  the  sea  as  he  dared,  and  on 
finding  that  the  wind  would  not  allow  him  to  carry  out 
his  idea,  he  descended,  with  the  result  of  a  damaged 
balloon.  This  ambition  to  cross  the  channel,  which 
fired  so  many  contemporary  aeronauts,  was  a  little  later 
to  have  a  far  more  tragic  result. 

Among  those  who  were  bitten  with  the  craze  was  Mr. 
Walter  Powell,  M.P.  for  Malmesbury,  who  asked  Mr. 
Wright*  to  lend  him  a  balloon  for  the  purpose  of  crossing 
the  Channel  on  July  12th,  1881.  In  reply  Mr. 
Wright  begged  him  to  abandon  the  idea,  at  any  rate 
until  he  had  had  more  experience  with  balloons  ;  but  the 
advice  was  only  thrown  away,  and  Mr.  Powell  deter- 
mined to  make  the  attempt  on  the  first  opportunity. 
Later  he  ascended  once  or  twice  with  Mr.  Wright  and  he 
also  made  a  number  of  ascents  that  summer  in  a  balloon 
of  his  own.  But  his  infatuation  for  aeronautics  was 
destined  to  be  his  doom,  as  it  has  been  the  doom  of  so 

*  The  letter  is  dated  ioth  July,  1881. 


176  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

many  far  more  experienced  aeronauts.  It  had  been 
arranged  that  on  the  tenth  of  December — which  turned 
out  to  be  a  cloudy  day  with  threatenings  of  snow — he 
should  make  an  ascent  from  Bath  in  the  Saladin,  in  the 
company  of  Captain  Templer  and  Mr.  Agg-Gardner. 
The  balloon  sailed  straight  for  Exeter  and  on  reaching 
Eype  near  Bridport  the  voyagers  attempted  to  descend. 
Captain  Templer  and  Mr.  Agg-Gardner  were  thrown  out  of 
the  car — the  latter  sustaining  a  fracture  of  the  leg  ;  and 
the  balloon,  with  Mr.  Powell  in  it,  rose  suddenty  to  a 
great  height,  and  was  carried  out  to  sea.  And  so  in  the 
words  of  an  old  boat  builder,  the  only  witness  of  the  acci- 
dent, "  Walter  Powell,"  who  was  last  seen  waving  his 
hands  to  his  friends,  "  drifted  amid  the  snow  clouds 
into  the  thick  night,  with  Death  above,  Death  below, 
Death  all  around — and  nobody  able  to  help." 

The  following  account  of  the  disaster  was  sent  by 
Captain  Templer  to  Mr.  Wright,  as  the  leading  authority 
on  aeronautics. 

Mountfield, 
Bridport, 

December  21st,  1881. 
Dear  Wright, 

Everything  was  done  that  possibly  could  have  been, 
and  there  is  no  blame  to  either  of  us.  It  was  blowing 
about  35  miles  an  hour.  The  car  went  right  over,  pitch- 
ing me  out  as  I  was  holding  on  the  valve.  I  had  a  good 
place,  and  was  dragged  about  60  yards.  A  squall  struck 
her,  and  the  valve  rope  cut  its  way  through  the  flesh  of 
my  hands.  I  called  Powell  to  come  out,  but  he  ( I  think  he 
imagined  he  could  get  her  in  under  the  cliff  on  the  beach) 
did  not  come  out  but  stood  up.  I  then  fancy  he  had  an 
idea  of  crossing  over  (to  France)  for  he  waved  one  hand. 
When  he  had  been  gone  six  minutes  I  fancied  the  balloon 
was  not  going  up,  and  I  got  nervous  and  went  off  to  see 
if  I  could  do  anything  ;  you  know  the  rest.  I  am  waiting 
here  as  a  reliable  man. 


ATTEMPTS    TO    CROSS    THE    CHANNEL    177 

Mr.  Good*  fancies  he  saw  the  balloon  drop  in  the  bay. 
I  have  dragged  the  spot,  and  am  still  searching.  I  shall 
be  in  London  on  Tuesday,  and  will  let  you  know  where  to 
see  me.  I  should  have  come  down  at  Symondsbury, 
but  Powell,  who  had  worked  the  balloon,  parted  with  a 
big  bag  of  ballast  to  get  over  a  house.  I  opened  the  valve 
immediately  and  never  eased  it  again." 

Not  only  was  poor  Powell  never  seen  again,  no  vestige 
of  his  balloon  was  ever  found. 

This  terrible  accident,  far  from  causing  aeronauts  to 
abandon  the  idea  of  crossing  the  channel,  only  made 
them  the  more  desirous  to  accomplish  the  48— The  Brine 
feat.     Among  these    ambitious    ones  was  ^fig0^ 
Colonel    Brine,    R.E.,  who    requested  Mr.    the  Channel, 
Wright  both  to  lend  a  balloon  and  to  ac-  *th  Mar"  1882- 
pany  him  on  the  proposed  trip.     Mr.  Wright  for  various 
reasons  declined,   but  he  introduced  Colonel  Brine  to 
another  aeronaut,   Mr.  Joseph  Simmons,   who  showed 
himself    agreeable.     Colonel    Brine    and    Mr.    Simmons 
made  their  ascent  at  Canterbury  on  March  4th,  1882, 
at  11.30,   and  an  hour  later  the  balloon  passed  over 
Dover,  whence  it  was  watched  by  an  interested  crowd. 
For  a  time  the  wind  continued  to  drive  them  in  the  direc- 
tion of  France,  but  when  they  were  some  ten  miles  from 
land  it  suddenly  changed,  and  the  aeronauts  found  them- 
selves making  straight  for  the  German  ocean.     Believing 
that  the  only  safe  way  was  to  descend  into  the  sea 
and  take  their  chance  of  being  picked  up,  they  put  on 
their  cork  jackets  and  opened  the  valve.     The  gas  rushed 
out,  and  they  fell  with  rapidity  into  the  water. 

"  We  are  dead  men  !  "  said  Colonel  Brine. 

"  No,"  said  Simmons,  "  the  car  will  float  us  both." 

In  the  meantime  the  anxiety  on  the  sea  front  was  in- 
tense, for  by  means  of  glasses  the  balloon  had  been  seen 
to  drop  into  the  water.  After  a  time,  to  the  relief  and 
joy  of  the  spectators,  a  steamer,  which  proved  to  be  the 
Foam    from    Calais,    was     observed     approaching     the 

*  No  doubt  the  boat  builder. 


178  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

unfortunate  aeronauts.  It  reached  the  car.  But  had  it 
reached  it  in  time  ?  An  hour  later  the  Foam  steamed 
along  side  the  Admiralty  Pier,  with  the  aeronauts  and 
their  collapsed  balloon  on  board,  and  the  car  hanging  over 
the  vessel's  side.  A  tumultuous  cheer  rent  the  air  ;  and 
the  aeronauts  stepped  on  shore  little  the  worse  for  their 
adventure.  Still  it  had  been  a  frightfully  narrow  escape,  * 
for  when  rescued  they  were  above  their  knees  in  water. 
Burnaby,  who  had  been  paying  a  visit  to  Tunis,  hap- 
pened a  few  hours  after  this  event  to  be  crossing  the 
Channel,  on  his  way  home,  in  the  Calais-Dover  boat ; 
and  the  daring  of  the  two  aeronauts  monopolised  the 
passengers'  conversation.  On  arriving  in  London,  he 
sought  out  Mr.  Simmons,  who  declared  that  his  failure 
was  owing  to  the  change  of  wind,  which  had  suddenly 
shifted  from  north  to  south-west.  Burnaby,  however, 
embraced  the  theory  that  at  different  altitudes  a  breeze 
can  be  found  blowing  in  a  different  direction  from  the 
current  of  air  to  be  met  with  near  earth  or  sea  ;  and  he 
asseverated  that  had  the  baffled  aeronauts  been  provided 
with  sufficient  ballast  to  enable  them  to  ascend  to  a  high 
altitude,  they  would  have  met  with  a  favourable  breeze. 

*  Mr.  Simmons  died  in  18S9  from  injuries  sustained  in  a  balloon  acci- 
dent at  Ulting,  near  Maldon,  Essex,  26th  August,  1889. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

4th  march  1882 — 5th  June  1882. 

Across  the  Channel  by  Balloon. 

bibliography  : 

10.  A  Ride  Across  the  Channel  and  other  Adventures  in 

the  Air  1882. 

11.  The  Life,  Adventures  and  Political  Opinions  of 
Frederick  Gustavus  Burnaby,  by  R.  K.  Mann. 
(Revised  by  Burnaby  1882). 

On  leaving  Mr.  Simmons,  Burnaby  determined  to 
attempt  to  cross  the  Channel  himself— ascending  from 
Dover  or  Folkestone — and  he  at  once 
49— Crossing  the  wrote  to  Mr.  Wright,  requesting  the  loan 
23rdMa°n,6l882.  of  a  balloon  for  the  purpose.  Mr.  Wright 
replied  immediately,  and  with  enthusiasm. 
"  I  have,"  he  said,  "  a  balloon  that  will  just  suit  you. 
Unlike  Simmons' s,  which  was  small,  old  and  leaky,  it  is 
nearly  new,  and  it  holds  36,000  feet  of  gas."  He  further 
added,  though  this  was  scarcely  a  recommendation, 
that  "  poor  Powell  had  once  made  an  ascent  in  it  "  ;  and 
in  a  postcript,  he  expressed  his  desire  to  accompany 
Colonel  Burnaby  in  the  trip.  But  even  had  Burnaby 
been  a  lighter  man,  it  is  questionable  whether  he  would 
have  accepted  the  offer  of  Mr.  Wright's  company, 
for  he  was  unwilling  (and  naturally)  to  share  with  another 
whatever  glory  might  be  obtained  from  the  adventure  ; 
and  he  asserted  that  a  balloon  containing  36,000  feet  of 
gas  could  not  carry  two  men  as  many  hours  as  the  voyage 
was  likely  to  take.     "  I  should  be  delighted,"  he  said  to 

079) 


180  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

Mr.  Wright,  "  to  make  an  ascent  with  you  for  any 
inland  excursion,  but  for  the  voyage  across  the  Channel 
I  shall  want  every  available  pound  of  ballast,  and  must 
go  alone  "—a  piece  of  characteristic  humour,  which  Mr. 
Wright,  himself  a  humorist,  thoroughly  appreciated. 
Mr.  Wright's  reasons  for  wishing  to  accompany  Colonel 
Burnaby  were  three — first  an  affection  for  his  balloon, 
similar  to  that  of  a  captain  for  his  ship  ;  secondly,  a  love 
of  daring  ;  and  thirdly,  the  belief  that  his  practical  experi- 
ence, which  was  much  greater  than  Burnaby 's,  would  be 
more  likely  to  make  the  voyage  a  success ;  while  Burnaby's 
opinion  that  the  balloon  would  not  carry  the  two  men  a 
sufficient  number  of  hours,  he  did  not  share.  However, 
nothing  could  induce  Burnaby  to  modify  his  plans, 
and  on  March  17th  he  wrote  to  Mr.  Wright  as  follows  : 

Friday,  March  17th,  (1882), 

18,  Charles  Street. 
Dear  Mr.  Wright, 

I  have  received  enclosed*  from  Dover,  but  would  pre- 
fer Folkestone.  As  to  the  journey  ;  as  I  told  you  before, 
I  must  go  alone.  From  Bedford  I  could  let  you  accom- 
pany me,  but  not  across  the  Channel.  Wire  back  if  you 
will  be  at  Folkestone  or  Dover  on  Monday  next  with  the 
balloon,  as  I  can  be  there  on  Monday  evening. 

Yours    very    truly, 

Fred  Burnaby. 

Dover  having  been  decided  on,  Mr.  Wright  at  once  des- 
patched his  balloon,  the  Eclipse,  to  that  town.  Burnaby 
had  counted  on  being  able  to  ascend  on  March  22nd  at 
sunrise,  but,  owing  to  the  inability  of  the  authorities 
at  the  gas  works  to  oblige  him,  there  occurred  a  delay  of 
twenty-four  hours,  which  was  the  more  exasperating 
as  the  wind  blew  that  morning  straight  on  Calais.  How- 
ever, as  nothing  further  could  be  done,  Burnaby  and  Mr. 
Wright,    accompanied    by    Henry    Storeyf — Radford's 

*  No  doubt  a  letter  from  the  Dover  Gasworks. 

t  Storey  joined  the  Royal  Horse  Guards,  gth  May,  1877,  and  he  left  in 
1898,  after  serving  23  years.  For  a  time  Burnaby  was  served  by  a  German 
named  Luie. 


ACROSS    THE    CHANNEL    BY    BALLOON    181 

successor — strolled  about  the  town  and  visited  the  ceme- 
tery in  order  to  see  Radford's  grave. 

By  this  time  the  newspapers  had  announced  the 
proposed  ascent,  all  England  was  expectant,  and  Burn- 
aby  lived  in  hourly  dread  lest  he  should  be  ordered  back 
to  town  by  a  telegram  from  the  Commander-in-Chief. 
The  manager  of  the  Daily  Telegraph  wired  that  he  had  a 
correspondent*  eager  to  accompany  him  ;  but  Burnaby, 
though  grateful  to  that  newspaper  for  the  cordiality 
it  had  over  and  over  again  manifested  towards  him, 
could  not  bring  himself  to  divide  the  glory. 

Mr.  Wright  did  everything  in  his  power  to  make  the 
voyage  a  successful  one.  For  example,  on  March  21st, 
in  order  to  save  valuable  time,  he  laid  out  the  silk  on  the 
ground,  and  having  procured  tarpaulins,  placed  them 
under  and  over  the  netting.  "  I  had  not  thought  of  this," 
comments  Burnaby,  "  and  felt  indeed  fortunate  that  I 
had  so  experienced  an  aeronaut  to  inflate  the  balloon 
for  me." 

"  You  will  be  careful  in  packing  her  up,"  said  Mr. 
Wright, "  if  you  come  down  safely ;  and  should  she  burst, 
remember  to  let  go  this  cord — and  he  pointed  to  the  neck- 
line— not  that  she  is  likely  to  burst,  still  I  should  like  a 
little  piece  of  paper,  just  to  say  you  are  responsible  for 
the  balloon — something  to  show,  in  case  you  should  not 
return." 

With  a  witticism  relative  to  the  gruesome  hint  con- 
veyed in  the  request,  Burnaby  picked  up  a  piece  of  paper, 
which  turned  out  to  be  a  billhead  of  the  Dover  Gas  Light 
Company,  and  he  wrote  on  it — 

March  23rd,  1882. 

I  agree  to  be  responsible  to  Mr.  Wright  for  all  damage 
or  loss  incurred  by  him  through  any  accident  happening 
to  his  balloon,  in  which  I  ascend  to-day. 

Fred  Burnaby,  Royal  Horse  Guards. "f 

"  I  am  afraid,"    said  Burnaby  jocosely  to  Mr.  Wright, 

*No  doubt,  Mr.  Bennet  Burleigh. 

t  This  is  now  in  the  possession  of  the  author. 


182  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

"  you  think  a  good  deal  more  of  the  safety  of  your 
balloon  than  you  do  of  me." 

"  If,  sir,"  replied  Mr.  Wright,  "  I  had  not  the  greatest 
confidence  in  your  experience  as  an  aeronaut,  I  would  not 
trust  you  with  it.  I  am  granting  to  you  what  I  refused  to 
Colonel  Brine." 

The  wind  howled  all  night,  and  Burnaby  felt,  as  he 
listened,  that  there  would  be  little  chance  of  an  ascent 
next  day.  However  he  rose  at  4.30,  to  be  greeted  by 
Storey  with  the  gratifying  information,  "  The  wind  is  in 
the  right  direction,  sir  ;  all  the  weathercocks  point  to  the 
north."  Having  pelted  Mr.  Wright's  window  with  small 
stones,  he  hastened  to  the  gasworks,  noticing  with  gratifi- 
cation as  he  strode  along  that  the  pennon  on  the  flag 
staff  of  the  castle  pointed  straight  to  Boulogne.  Mr. 
Wright  promptly  withdrew  the  tarpaulins,  which  were 
caked  with  ice  ;  and  then,  having  removed  his  boots, 
he  walked  over  the  envelope  to  see  whether  it  had 
sustained  any  damage.  The  balloon  having  begun  to  fill 
(and  it  was  a  handsome  red  aerostat  striped  with  yellow) 
a  considerable  crowd  had  appeared- — all  the  influential 
people  of  Dover  being  present.  The  balloon  having 
assumed  its  full  pear  shape,  the  moment  for  starting 
seemed  to  have  arrived.  But  Mr.  Wright,  who  wished 
her  to  go  up  as  symmetrically  as  possible,  pleaded  for 
"  Just  one  puff  more." 

Seated  in  the  car,  with  his  elbows  on  the  rim,  dressed 
in  a  striped  coat  and  a  close  skull  cap,  Burnaby,  whose 
sole  luggage  consisted  of  a  few  sandwiches  and  a  bottle  of 
Apollinaris  (for  unlike  Brine  and  Simmons  he  car- 
ried neither  buoy  nor  cork-jacket),  waited  impatiently 
five  minutes  longer. 

At  last  Mr.  Wright  was  satisfied.  "  And  now,  good 
luck  to  you,"  he  said,  "  but — once  more — in  case  of 
accident,  don't  forget  the  neckline." 

The  start  was  not  a  good  one,  and  it  was  only  by  throw- 
ing over  a  bag  of  ballast  just  in  time  that  Burnaby  was 
able  to  clear  the  gasworks  chimney.     The  heat  presently 


THE    BRINE    AND    SIMMONS'    BALLOON    VOYAGE 
(faint  dashes),  4th  March,  1882. 

BURNABY'S    BALLOON    VOYAGE 

(heavy  dashes),  23rd  March,  1882. 


ACROSS    THE    CHANNEL    BY    BALLOON    185 

became  oppressive ;  and  in  order  to  protect  his  nape  from 
the  sun,  he  made  a  puggaree  of  his  handkerchief.  Below 
him  moved  a  Dover  and  Calais  boat.  "  Still  as  possible," 
he  says,  "  it  glided  above  the  waves  ;  and,  a  bad  sailor, 
I  could  not  help  congratulating  myself  that  I  was  not 
experiencing  that  up-and-down  and  rocking  movement 
so  extremely  disagreeable  in  the  Channel."  Flashes  of 
light,  which  came  irregularly  from  Dover  castle,  showed 
him  that  the  military  there  were  signalling  with  a 
heliograph,  and  he  regretted  his  ignorance  of  the  code. 
By  11.15  England  had  entirely  disappeared  and  Boulogne 
came  in  view,  but  at  the  same  time  the  sky  became  over- 
cast, causing  the  gas  in  the  balloon  to  condense,  with  the 
result  of  a  rapid  descent.  The  warning  was  conveyed 
to  Burnaby  by  a  cracking  sensation  in  his  ears,  and  in  twTo 
minutes  he  dropped  a  third  of  a  mile.  The  rapidity  of 
the  descent  was  also  proved  by  the  fact  that  some  scraps 
of  paper  which  he  threw  out,  had  the  appearance  of 
flying  up  instead  of  down,  and  presently  he  found  himself 
disagreeably  close  to  the  water.  He  flung  over  a  bag  of 
ballast,  but  without  effect,  and  it  was  not  until  three 
more  bags  had  followed  it,  that  he  began  to  rise.  A  still 
more  serious  condition  of  things  was  the  fact  that  the 
balloon,  which  had  so  far  drifted  straight  from  Dover, 
to  Boulogne,  now  moved  almost  at  right  angles  to  that 
line  and  down  mid-channel. 

A  dead  calm  followed.  Below  on  the  water  he  could 
see  the  balloon's  shadow.  The  sea  gulls  cried  round  him. 
"  Unless  there  is  a  change,"  he  soliloquised,  "  I  shall  soon 
be  food  for  the  fishes."  Presently  two  smacks  came 
within  sight,  and  their  crews  made  signs  for  him  to  de- 
scend. But  his  only  reply  was  to  drop  a  Times  newspaper 
upon  them.  "  I  shall  be  able  to  remain  up  more  than 
three  hours,"  said  he  to  himself  ;  and  then,  being  sharp 
set,  he  took  out  a  sandwich— and,  with  his  lunch  in  one 
hand  and  a  barometer  in  the  other,  he  waited  for  a  change 
of  wind.  A  ripple  in  the  waves  having  led  him  to  believe 
that  there  was  a  current  of  air  below,  he  let  out  some  gas — 


186  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

only  to  discover  that  the  ripple  had  been  caused,  not  by 
the  wind,  but  by  a  shoal  of  fishes.  He  was  now  within 
500  feet  of  the  water,  and  the  crews  of  the  smacks  again 
shouted  to  him  ;  but  although  becalmed  in  mid-channel 
within  five  hours  of  darkness  and  in  a  balloon  which  could 
not  remain  in  the  air  more  than  three  hours,  he  still  re- 
fused the  assistance  of  the  friendly  fellows.  He  was 
determined,  if  possible,  to  succeed  where  Brine,  Simmons 
and  so  many  others  had  failed.  Nevertheless,  at  no 
great  distance  from  the  spot  over  which  he  hung,  had 
perished  only  a  few  weeks  previously  the  ill-fated  Mr. 
Powell  ;  and  he  knew  that  should  the  calm  continue, 
or  should  a  wind  sweep  down  the  channel  instead  of 
across  it,  his  fate  would  be  the  same.  The  temptation  to 
give  in  had  been  severe.  Twenty  times  he  said  to  himself, 
"  How  easy  it  would  be  to  descend.  I  need  not  even 
get  a  wetting."  But  he  successfully  combated  his 
weakness. 

The  fishermen  waited  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
and  then,  as  he  showed  no  signs  of  descending,  they 
waved  their  hands  and  moved  away.  He  still  possessed 
five  bags  of  ballast,  and  besides  these,  there  was,  of  course 
the  car,  which  he  intended  as  a  last  resource,  (after  seat- 
ing himself  on  the  hoop  of  the  balloon)  to  cut  away. 
Then,  despite  the  danger  from  the  escaping  gas,  and  with 
the  naughty  schoolboy  sort  of  feeling,  that  he  was  too 
far  from  England  for  Mr.  Wright  to  know,  he  lighted  a 
cigar.  We  have  already  mentioned  his  theory  in  respect 
to  varying  currents  of  air  at  varying  heights  ;  and 
he  now  resolved  to  put  his  theory  to  the  test.  So  he  flung 
over  two  of  the  bags  of  ballast.  Straightway  the  balloon 
rose  seven  thousand  odd  feet,  still  there  was  no  move- 
ment forwards.  Only  three  bags  remained — two  small 
ones  and  a  big  one  filled  with  stones.  He  threw  out  the 
small  bags,  and  presently  attained  an  attitude  of  10,000 
feet,  where  he  passed,  as  he  had  anticipated,  into  a 
stream  of  air  driving  in  a  southerly  direction.  His 
theory  had  proved  correct,  and  in  a  few  minutes  he  was 


ACROSS    THE    CHANNEL    BY    BALLOON    187 

sailing  cheerily  over  Dieppe,  which  he  sketched  in  his 
pocket  book. 

All  danger  past,  he  grew  sportive,  and  on  passing 
over  a  man  ploughing  with  two  oxen  and  a  horse,  he 
dropped  a  little  fine  sand.  The  man  started,  evidently 
at  a  loss  to  know  whence  the  dust  had  fallen.  Presently 
he  looked  straight  above  him,  and  then  he  threw  himself 
on  his  back,  gazing  into  the  clouds,  with  his  hands 
stretched  out  in  astonishment  and  his  legs  in  the  air. 
The  descent  was  made  in  a  masterly  manner,  and  nothing 
could  exceeed  the  kindness  and  courtesy  of  the  French 
peasants,  who  flocked  from  all  sides  to  Burnaby's  assist- 
ance. 

In  the  meantime  people  at  home  had  become  extremely 
anxious  on  his  account.  The  editors  of  newspapers 
waited  impatiently  for  telegrams,  and  when  the  Rev. 
Evelyn  Burnaby  called  at  the  office  of  the  Morning  Post 
early  in  the  morning,  he  found  the  editor,  Sir  A.  Borthwick 
(now  Lord  Glenesk)  with  two  articles  in  front  of  him — 
one  to  be  used  in  case  of  Burnaby's  success,  the  other  in 
case  of  his  death.  At  his  first  opportunity  Burnaby  des- 
patched to  Mr.  Wright  a  telegram  that  was  not  wanting 
in  humour — a  message  of  the  kind  that  would  have  been 
acceptable  to  Sancho  Panza's  wife,  who  always  wanted 
to  know  first  of  all  whether  the  ass  was  safe.  It  ran 
"  Your  balloon  uninjured.  Wind  changed  mid-channel. 
Afterwards  for  a  time  becalmed  over  sea.  Eventually 
found  southerly  current  at  high  altitude.  Descended 
Chateau  de  Montigny,  Envermeu,  Normandy.  Voyage 
difficult,  but  very  amusing." 

No  telegram  was  sent  to  anyone  else.  Nevertheless 
on  the  same  afternoon  two  telegrams — purporting  to  have 
been  received,  one  from  Colonel  Burnaby  and  one  from 
a  friend  of  his — reached  the  Press.  Mr.  Wright,  who  was 
naturally  indignant  that  the  contents  of  a  private  tele- 
gram to  him  should  have  been  divulged  to  a  third  person, 
and  not  only  so,  but  before  he  himself  had  seen  it,  com- 
plained to  the   Secretary  of  the  Submarine  Telegraph 


188  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

Company  ;  and  Colonel  Burnaby  was  also  annoyed. 
The  excuse  made  by  the  Company  was  that  they  had 
complied  with  a  request  which  had  been  made  to  them 
for  the  news  because  the  question  of  the  Colonel's  safety 
was  one  of  public  interest. 

Other  letters  followed,  and  not  only  was  the  whole  of 
the  correspondence  sent  to  the  Press,  but  the  matter  was 
brought  before  Parliament.  The  Postmaster  General, 
though  he  expressed  his  opinion  that  the  contents  of  the 
telegram  referred  to  ought  not  to  have  been  divulged, 
observed  that  the  Post  Office  had  no  power  in  the  matter, 
as  the  various  Telegraph  Acts,  which  ensured  the  secrecy 
of  British  inland  telegrams,  did  not  apply  to  telegrams 
transmitted  through  foreign  companies.  As,  however, 
the  desire  of  Colonel  Burnaby  and  Mr.  Wright  was  merely 
to  serve  the  public  by  drawing  general  attention  to  a 
scandalous  state  of  affairs,  they  attained  their  end. 

Next  morning  as  Evelyn  Burnaby  was  walking  down 
St.  James's  Street  he  met  his  brother,  heavity  wrapped  up 
as  usual,  but  looking  as  blithe  as  a  lark— the  sense  that 
he  had  once  more  achieved  something  really  difficult 
having  imparted  fresh  life  to  him  ;  but  while  they  break- 
fasted together  he  said,  "  I  have  had  the  nearest  squeak, 
Evelyn,  I  ever  had." 

It  was  Burnaby's  boast  that  he  never  punned,  but  that 
evening,  when  he  was  one  of  the  guests  at  a  dinner  given 
by  the  Fishmongers'  Company  in  their  hall,  near  London 
Bridge,  he  fell  sadly. 

"  You  ought  not  to  be  here,"  observed  another  guest, 
"  Your  place  is  with  the  fowls  of  the  air,  not  with  the 
fish  of  the  sea." 

"  I  don't  mind,"  he  replied,  shamelessly,  "  where  they 
put  me,  as  long  as  they  don't  make  game  of  me." 

It  had  been  arranged  that  Mr.  Wright  should  call  at 
18,  Charles  Street  the  next  day — Saturday — in  order  to 
look  over  the  account  of  the  voyage  which  Burnaby  had 
written  for  publication  by  Messrs.  Sampson  Low  &  Co. 

On  the  way  there  Mr.  Wright  met  Mr.  Bennet  Burleigh, 


■£ 


BIRMINGHAM^0 


PARLIAMENT 


- 


£5ESS8J 


FRED'S    NEXT    ATTEMPT. 

From   The  Dart,   31st   March,    1S82. 

He  is  trying  to  sail  from  Birmingham  to  Parliament.     The  Rev.  R.  W.  Dale 
(with  full  beard),  Mr.  F.  Schnadhorst,  and  Mr.  Joseph  Chamberlain  are  blowing 
him  back.     Mr.  Schnadhorst  was  the  Liberal  Agent      He  was  largely  instru- 
mental in  introducing  the  Caucus  System. 

Drawn  by  E.  C.  Mountfort. 


ACROSS    THE    CHANNEL    BY    BALLOON     191 

subsequently  the  famous  war  correspondent  of  the 
Daily  Telegraph,  but  then  a  young  man  just  entering  on 
his  career. 

Mr.  Burleigh,  who  knew  Mr.  Wright  very  well,  asked 
where  he  was  going. 

"  To  call  on  Colonel  Burnaby,"  was  the  reply. 

"  Well,"  said  Mr.  Burleigh,  "  I  should  be  very  glad  to 
see  him,  too.  Indeed  that's  what  I  came  here  for.  Will 
you  introduce  me  ?  " 

So  they  entered  the  house  together,  and  Mr.  Wright  was 
conducted  up  to  Burnaby's  study. 

"  I  have  a  friend  downstairs,"  said  Mr.  Wright,  "  do 
you  mind  seeing  him  too  ?  " 

On  learning  who  the  friend  was,  Burnaby  said,  "  Not 
now.  I've  promised  my  publisher  that  I  will  not  give 
information  to  anyone  :  but  I'll  see  him  after  you  and  I 
have  had  our  little  talk." 

Business  done,  Mr.  Wright  introduced  Mr.  Burleigh, 
and  on  the  Monday  morning  (March  27th),  though  Burn- 
aby told  Mr.  Burleigh  nothing  whatever  about  his  journey, 
a  detailed  and  accurate  account  of  it  appeared  in  the 
columns  of  The  Daily  Telegraph.  How  Mr.  Burleigh 
obtained  the  information,  we  prefer  not  to  say,  except 
that  certainly  Mr.  Wright  did  not  give  it  him.  The 
feat,  was,  however,  but  one  of  the  many  accomplished 
by  a  smart  and  gifted  journalist,  who  subsequently  did 
far  greater  things.  Mr.  Burleigh  some  time  later  met 
Burnaby  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Levi  Lawson,  now  Lord 
Burnham,  and  as  a  result  of  this  meeting,  there  ensued 
between  them  a  warm  friendship,  which  was  cemented 
by  their  fellow  interest  in  ballooning  and  other  sub- 
jects. 

On  the  Saturday  night  Burnaby  left  London  for  Wind- 
sor where,  the  report  of  his  exploit  having  preceded  him, 
he  received  the  heartiest  of  welcomes  from  his  brother 
officers  and  the  men. 

On  the  Sunday  the  Guards,  as  usual,  attended  service 
at  the  Garrison  Church,  Windsor.  Canon  Robins  occupied 


192  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

the  pulpit,  and  in  the  course  of  a  most  eloquent  ser- 
mon, he  roguishly  remarked,  with  a  side  glance  at  the 
officers'  pew,  where  Colonel  Burnaby  was  conspicuous, 
*'  Ah,  my  friends,  how  often  in  the  course  of  our  weary 
pilgrimage  we  cast  our  eyes  longingly  at  the  far  distant 
shore,  and  long  for  a  favouring  breeze  to  spring  up  and 
carry  us  to  the  haven  whither  we  would  be." 

A  little  later,  when  Burnaby  was  on  duty  at  Windsor 
Castle,  the  Duke  of  Cambridge  reprimanded  him  for 
quitting  England  without  obtaining  leave  of  absence 
from  headquarters  ;  but  he  added  nothing  more  terrible 
than  the  remark  that  "  valuable  lives  ought  not  to  be 
risked  in  such  freaks." 

Of  course  there  was  endless  chaff  at  Burnaby's  expense, 
although  nobody  could  have  enjoyed  that  chaff  quite  so 
much  as  the  object  of  it.  His  political  enemies  gloated 
over  the  supposition  that  his  luck  in  being  able  to  accom- 
plish his  end  was  chequered  by  the  humiliation  he  had  to 
endure  at  the  instance  of  the  War  Office.  They  called 
him  Captain  Cockle  Apollinaris  Burnaby,  because  he  had 
paid  a  tribute  to  Cockle's  Pills  in  his  Ride  to  Khiva, 
and  had  taken  a  bottle  of  Apollinaris  with  him  in  the 
balloon,  and  they  appended  to  the  popular  song  "  Up 
in  a  Balloon  Boys,"  the  lines  : 
But  Burnaby,  oh  Burnaby, 

When  you  go  again  ; 
You'd  better  take  your  journey  by 
A  steamboat  and  a  train. 
Even  the  dead  poets  could  not  leave  him  alone,  for  accord- 
ing to  Judy,  Dr.  Watts  was  inspired  to  write  of  him  : 
How  doth  the  lengthy  Burnabee 

Improve  his  afternoon, 
By  riding  gaily  o'er  the  sea 
Adrift  in  a  balloon. 
In  Punch,*  Burnaby's  face  resolved  itself  into  the  bag 
of  a  balloon,  carrying  a  car  freighted  with  Apollinaris 
water  and  Cockle's  pills,  while  the  letterpress  likened  him 

*  ist  April,  1882. 


ACROSS    THE    CHANNEL    BY    BALLOON    193 

to  Horatius  Cockles,  and  insisted  that  he  ought  to  be 
member  for  Airshire. 

A  few  days  previous  the  elephant  Jumbo  had  been 
despatched,  not  without  maudlin  English  sighs,  to  Amer- 
ica ;  and  the  Daily  Neivs,  in  a  good  humoured  article, 
linked  the  events  as  follows  :  "  Jumbo  is  afloat  on  the 
water,  and  Colonel  Burnaby  is,  or  was,  afloat  in  the 
air.     Colonel  Burnaby  is  himself  a  sort  of  human  and 

attractive  Jumbo Colonel  Burnaby  has  many 

gallant  and  sturdy  characteristics.  He  has  done  bold 
things.  He  has  made  daring  ventures,  and  he  has  accom- 
plished much  success.  He  is  a  man  of  one  side  of  whose 
character   at   least   England  has   reason   to   be   proud. 

Indeed,  if  he  would  keep  out  of  politics he 

might  be  viewed  by  his  countrymen  with  unmingled 
admiration." 

Burnaby's  account  of  his  journey  appeared  on  April 
5th,  1882,  with  the  title  of  A  Ride  Across  the  Channel  ; 
and  the  first  copy  that  came  to  his  hand  he  sent  to  Mr. 
Wright,  with  the  following  words  in  autograph  : 

"  To  Mr.  Wright,  the  celebrated  aeronaut,  without 
whose  valuable  services  in  filling  the  balloon  I  should  not 
have  been  able  to  accomplish  my  ride  across  the  channel. 

Fred  Burnaby,  April  5th,   1882. 

18,  Charles  Street,  Grosvenor  Square. 

Burnaby  next  proposed  to  make  an  ascent  with  Mr. 

Wright  from  Bedford  on  the  approaching  Whit-Monday 

(June  5th)  but,  as  the  following  letter  will   „    m,    „ 

\  '  .      ,  ,  L  i  •  50— The  Proposed 

show,  he  was  not  able  to  carry  out  his  m-      Ascent  from 

tention.  BJdfofd'  ?«£?" 

Monday,  1882. 

18,  Charles  Street,  Grosvenor  Square, 

May  10th,  '82. 
Dear  Mr.  Wright, 

Alas,  it  has  been  officially  intimated  to  me  that  the 
Commander-in-Chief  does  not  approve  of  my  ascending 
in  balloon.  Hence  to  my  regret,  I  shall  be  unable  to 
keep  my  promise  to  you  as  long  as  I  am  on  full  pay. 

When  my  term  of  full  pay  service  has  expired,  I  will 

L  2 


194  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

redeem  ray  promise,  and  will  make  several  ascents  with 
you. 

Yours   very    sincerely, 

Fred  Burnaby. 
Although  Burnaby  was  obliged  to  abandon  his  idea 
of  accompanying  Mr.  Wright— and,  a  native  of  Bedford, 
it  was  a  keen  disappointment  to  him— he  expressed  the 
hope  of  being  able  to  witness  the  ascent ;  but  apparently 
he  received  another  communication  from  headquarters, 
for  on  May  13th,  he  wrote  as  follows  : 

18,  Charles  Street, 

Grosvenor  Square, 

May  13th,  '82. 
Dear  Mr.  Wright, 

I  much  regret  that  I  have  a  previous  engagement  for 
Whit-Monday,  which  will  absolutely  prevent  my  being 
present  at  Bedford  on  that  day,  much  as  I  should  have 
liked  to  attend. 

Wishing  you  success,  and  regretting  that  I  shall  be 
unable  to  accompany  you  in  the  air. 

Believe  me, 

Yours  very  truly, 

Fred  Burnaby. 
Pray  remember  me  to  my  old  Bedford  friends  and  old 
schoolfellows  who  may  witness  your  ascent. 

Mr.  Wright  conveyed  his  balloon  to  Bedford,  and  in  the 
presence  of  an  enormous  crowd,  which  behaved  riotously 
and  broke  into  the  ring,  he  attended  to  the  preliminaries  ; 
but,  being  billed  to  ascend  next  day  at  Dudley,  instead 
of  entering  the  car  himself  he  sent  up  a  substitute — his 
assistant,  Mr.  Lewis  Hammett,  who  was  accompanied 
by  the  Rev.  William  Beckett,  of  Bedford,  and  Mr.  Freder- 
ick Smith,  of  Olney. 

Although  thwarted  in  his  plans,  Burnaby's  interest 
in  aeronautics  suffered  no  diminution  ;  and  a  little  later 
he  wrote  for  the  Fortnightly  Review,*  an  article  containing 
his  views  on  "  The  Possibilities  of  Ballooning."     After 

*  It  appeared  in  May,  1884. 


ACROSS    THE    CHANNEL    BY    BALLOON    195 

giving  a  succinct  account  of  the  history  of  the  pear- 
shaped  aerostat  from  21st  November,  1773,  when 
De  Roziers  and  the  Marquis  d'Arlandes  made  their 
memorable  ascent  down  to  the  time  of  Coxwell  and 
Wright,  not  forgetting  the  achievements  of  Charles,* 
Lunardi,f  and  Green— he  points  out  the  great  value 
of  captive  balloons  in  time  of  war,  and  expresses  his  satis- 
tion  that  owing  to  the  exertions  of  Captain  Templer 
and  Major  Elsdale,  the  Woolwich  authorities  had  at  last 
determined  to  establish  a  balloon  corps. 

In  reference  to  the  oft-repeated  assertion  that  it  would 
be  possible  to  reach  the  North  Pole  in  a  balloon,  he  men- 
tioned that  he  had  received  numerous  letters  from 
people  who  declared  that  they  could  guide  an  aerostat. 
"  I  should  be  very  glad,"  he  observes,  "to  make  the 
gentlemen  referred  to  a  present  of  £100,  if  they  will 
select  two  places,  twenty  miles  apart,  go  in  a  free  aerostat 
from  one  spot  to  the  other,  and  return  without  anchoring 
the  balloon  or  recharging  it  with  gas." 

"  What  we  require,"  he  continues,  "is  a  machine 
which,  itself  heavier  than  the  atmosphere,  will  be  able 
to  strike  a  blow  on  the  air  in  excess  of  its  own  weight. 
Machinery  worked  by  steam  is  much  too  heavy  for  this 
purpose  ;  electricity  some  day,  perhaps,  will  be  available. 
Inventors  should  never  forget  that  a  bird  is  heavier 
than  the  air,  and  that  the  bird  flies  because  its  strength 
enables  it  to  overcome  the  difference  between  its  weight 
and  that  of  the  atmosphere  it  displaces.  To  put  the  case 
in  a  nutshell,  aerial  navigation  is  a  mere  question  of 
lightness  and  force." 

So  far  as  the  solution  of  the  problem — how  to  navigate 
the  air — is  concerned,  the  ordinary  pear-shaped  balloon 
had,  in  Burnaby's  opinion,  done  more  harm  than  good, 
and  he  looked  for  the  barrel,  tube  or  cigar-shaped  aero- 
stat to  be  propelled  by  machinery.     Such  were  the  views 

*  Charles  ascended  in  a  silk  aerostat  inflated  with  hydrogen,  ist  Dec, 
I783- 

t  The  first  ascent  made  in  England  was  by  Lunardi  in  Sept.,  1784. 


196  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

of  one  who  knew  more  about  ballooning,  and  did  more 
for  ballooning,  than  any  other  man  of  his  day,*  but  in 
private  conversation  he  expressed  himself  still  more 
strongly.  He  foresaw,  indeed,  the  achievements  of  the 
modern  airship. 

*  Mr.  Wright  laid  claim  to  being  a  practical  man,  and  a  practical  man 
only. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

5th  june  1882 december  1883. 

Travels   in   Spain   and   Tunis  ;   Burning   Speeches. 

In  1882,  when  the  troubles  in  the  Soudan,  fruit  of  the 

Mahdi's  activity,  commenced,  Burnaby  fully  expected 

to  be  put  on  active  service  ;  consequently 

5  with  MrfSenri  when  the  command  of  the  detachment  of 

Deutsch,       the    Blues    ordered     out    was    given    to 

Mar.,  1883.  Lieutenant_c0lonel  Hume,  he  was  deeply 
disappointed.  Nor  did  a  difference  which  he  had  with 
General  Owen  Williams  about  this  time  tend  to  soothe 
his  mind.  General  Williams,  exasperated  on  account 
of  certain  military  opinions  expressed  by  Burnaby, 
had  commenced  proceedings  against  him;  but,  as  the 
result  of  a  conference  between  the  friends  of  the  litigants, 
the  dispute  was  settled,  each  party  agreeing  to  pay  his 
own  costs. 

Burnaby  spent  the  summer  of  1882  partly  in  London 
and  partly  at  Somerby  Hall  ;  and  on  October  20th  he 
entertained  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales  and  other 
persons  of  distinction  to  welcome  back  to  their  old  quar- 
ters Lieutenant-Colonel  Hume  and  his  men.  He  was 
also  a  guest  at  a  banquet  given  in  the  Holborn  Town 
Hall,  at  which  some  five  hundred  Blues  were  present, 
and  he  responded  to  the  toast  of  "  The  Officers  of  the 
Horse  Guards,"  making  a  rousing  speech  chiefly  by  way 
of  tribute  to  the  men  who  had  "  charged  at  Kassassin." 
During  the  early  part  of  1883  he  was  confined  to  his  house 
by  illness,  and  on  his  recovery  he  paid  a  visit  to  Spain, 
in  the  company  of  his  friend,  the  late  Mr.  Henri  Deutsch. 
While  at  Madrid  they  lunched  with  the  King  and  Queen 

(197) 


198  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

(Alphonso  XII.  and  Christina)  ;  and  the  letter  home 
written  just  after  the  incident,  has  been  preserved.  "  We 
arrived  here,"  it  runs,  "  the  day  before  yesterday,  having 
travelled  through  from  Paris  in  thirty-eight  hours.  The 
same  day  we  arrived  we  received  a  letter  from  Count 
S ,  the  Chamberlain  of  the  King,  appointing  the  follow- 
ing day  at  six  p.m.  for  an  audience  of  his  Majesty.  We 
went  there  at  that  hour  in  evening  dress,  and  were  the  first 
to  be  shown  into  the  Sovereign's  presence.  He  was  very 
amiable,  and  introduced  me  to  the  Queen,  who  speaks 
English  well,  and  showed  me  his  child,  a  little  girl  of  about 
two  years  old.  He  then  said, '  I  am  afraid  I  cannot  keep 
the  other  people  waiting.  Come  and  lunch  with  us  to- 
morrow at  12.30.  Only  the  family,  you  know.  I  want  so 
much  to  have  a  long  talk  with  you.'  "  Of  course  we  accep- 
ted.    After  dinner  that  evening  we  went  to  Senor  C 's 

box  at  the  opera.  The  house  was  full  of  all  the  beauty  of 
Madrid,  and  the  King  and  Queen  were  in  the  Ptoyal  box, 
and  nodded  several  times  to  us  during  the  opera.  I  met 
many  old  friends  in  the  house,  and  enjoyed  myself  very 
much.  To-day  we  went  to  the  Palace.  I  sat  on  the 
left-hand  of  the  Queen,  who  was  very  agreeable.  Then 
there  was  a  Spanish  General,  whom  I  had  known  some 
twelve  years  ago,  and  in  addition  the  English  governesses, 
or  companions,  of  the  Princesses.  Nothing  could  exceed 
the  kindness  of  the  family.  The  King  reminded  me 
of  his  visits  to  me  when  he  was  in  exile  in  London, 
and  of  how  he  had  then  partaken  of  my  hospitality. 
After  luncheon  the  King  lit  a  cigar  and  we  smoked,  the 
ladies  talking  to  us  all  the  while.  He  is  a  young  man 
of  about  twenty-five  years  of  age,  dark  and  good-looking, 
tall,  with  large  eyes,  and  a  very  intelligent  face." 

On  taking  leave  of  their  Majesties,  Burnaby  presented 
the  Queen  with  a  copy  of  a  work  written  by  Mrs.  Burnaby 
— The  High  Alps  in  Winter — and  by  the  end  of  the 
month  he  was  back  again  in  England. 

In  May  he  took  part  in  a  political  gathering  at  Birming- 
ham, and  at  the  banquet  that  followed  he  replied  to  the 


TRAVELS    IN    SPAIN    AND    TUNIS         199 

toast  of  the  "  Two  Houses  of  Parliament."  He  glorified 
the  House  of  Lords,  which  in  years  gone  by  had  "  fought 
for  the  liberties  of  the  people  of  England  against  tyran- 
nical sovereigns,"  and  he  deplored  the  neglect  of  business 
in  the  House  of  Commons,  which  he  attributed  to  "  the 
intense  verbosity  of  Mr.  Gladstone  and  his  slavish  follow- 
ing." At  a  luncheon  served  in  the  Masonic  Hall,*  he  was 
greeted  with  an  ovation — "  the  entire  company  standing 
and  cheering  him  lustily  "  ;  and  he  spoke  at  a  public 
meeting  held  afterwards  in  the  Town  Hall,  his  speech 
being  eulogistic  of  Lord  Salisbury  and  Mr.  Gibson  (the 
guests  of  the  occasion),  and  of  the  Conservative  policy, 
and  condemnatory  of  Mr.  Gladstone,  Mr.  Bright,  and 
their  "  Pharisaic  following." 

The  exertions  made  at  these  and  other  meetings  told, 
however,  on  his  health  ;  and  bronchitis  and  inflammation 
of  the  lungs  brought  him  so  low  that  Mrs.  Burnaby  was 
sent  for  from  Switzerland  in  order  to  nurse  him.  On  his 
recovery  they  planned  a  joint  tour  in  Spain,  but  Mrs. 
Burnaby's  health  again  breaking  down,  the  idea  was 
abandoned  ;  and  she,  having,  by  medical  advice,  returned 
to  Switzerland,  Burnaby,  accompanied  only  by  his 
servant  Storey,  sailed  for  Gibraltar,!  where  he  was  wel- 
comed by  Sir  John  Adie,  the  governor,  who  "  took  him 
for  a  ghost."  He  had  scarcely  landed  when  news  came 
of  the  death  of  General  Burnaby,  and  a  number  of  news- 
paper men  having  mistaken  one  cousin  for  the  other, 
wrote  some  flattering  obituary  notices,  which  were  read 
with  both  surprise  and  relish  by  the  "  corpse."  From 
Gibraltar,  Burnaby  and  his  servant  took  steamer  to  Cadiz, 
and  thence  he  travelled  bv  train  to  his  favourite  Seville, 
where  he  renewed  acquaintance  with  old  friends  and  old 
scenes.  At  his  next  stopping  place,  Huelva,  he  was 
present  at  the  dinner  given  on  the  occasion  of  the  opening 
of  the  newly  finished  English  Hotel,  "  The  Colon  "— 
his  name  being  the  first  in  the  visitors'  book.     From 

♦March  29th. 

f  On  30th  May,  1883. 


200  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

Huelva  he  and  Storey  proceeded,  via  Madrid,  to  Alhama 
de  Aragon,  where  he  took  the  vapour  baths,  and  ascended 
a  mountain  on  foot,  in  order  to  see  whether  his  heart 
was  really  affected,  as  the  doctors  had  averred. 

Shortly  after  his  return  to  England,  he  "  conceived 
the  kindly  notion  "  of  giving  a  farewell  dinner  on  the 
occasion  of  the  departure  of  his  friend,  Mr. 
52— Concerning  Henry  Lucy,  for  Japan,  and  Mr.  (now  Sir) 
Absalom.*  Francis  Burnand  was  one  of  the  guests. 
"  We  were  a  considerable  party,"  says 
Sir  Francis,  "  for  a  merely  private  dinner.  My  im- 
pression is  that  there  were  not  fewer  than  twenty  present, 
and  that  for  this  special  occasion  Fred  Burnaby  had 
engaged  a  large  room  upstairs  at  the  Junior  Carlton, 
which  was  one  of  his  clubs.  Even  at  this  distance  of 
time,  just  sixteen  years,  I  recall  the  exceptionally  social 
character  of  that  evening,  and  the  incident  I  am  going  to 
relate  stands  out  vividly  in  my  memory. 

In  the  course  of  conversation,  over  the  coffee  and  cigars, 
I  was  describing  how,  when  mounted  on  a  strapping  big 
hunter,  over  whose  movements  I  had  hardly  any  control, 
I  was  carried  through  an  orchard  and  had  to  extend  my- 
self at  full  length  along  the  neck  of  the  beast  in  order 
to  avoid  being  caught  up  and  held  in  the  branches,  as 
Absalom  was,  by  the  hair  of  his  head — '  Thank  good- 
ness,' I  added,  '  there  was  no  ill-conditioned  Joab  handy 
with  his  spear  to  be  reckoned  with.'  " 

"  It's  very  curious,"  observed  Burnaby  smiling,  "how 
everybody  makes  that  mistake  about  Absalom.  Absalom 
was  never  caught  by  his  hair." 

"  My  dear  fellow,"  I  remonstrated. 

"  Oh  yes,  I  know,"  said  Burnaby,  quietly,  "  if  you  ask 
everyone  here,  I  should  be  much  astonished  if  the  whole 
lot  were  not  in  favour  of  your  version  of  the  story  and 
dead  against  mine." 

''  What  is  your's  ?  "  asked  one  of  the  guests,  for 
several  were  becoming  interested  in  the  discussion. 

*  Written  specially  for  this  book  by  Sir  Francis  Burnand. 


TRAVELS    IN    SPAIN    AND    TUNIS         201 

"  Mine  is  simply  as  it  is  given  in  the  Old  Testament," 
was  Burnaby's  answer. 

"  Well,"  asked  another  of  the  company,  "  and  does 
not  that  record  how  Absalom  was  caught  up  and  en- 
tangled by  the  hair  of  his  head  in  the  branch  of  a  tree  ?  " 

"  Not  a  bit  of  it  ?  "  answered  Burnaby,  with  his 
pleasant  yet  always  somewhat  Mephistophelian  smile.* 

Hereupon  many  joined  in.  Gradually  all  at  table 
had  a  word  to  say  on  the  subject,  in  corroboration  of  my 
view  of  it.  Some  sporting  men  of  the  company  were 
ready  to  wager  heavy  bets.  I  remember  the  guest  of  the 
evening,  H.  W.  Lucy,  being  in  favour  of  the  "  caught 
by  the  hair  "  version,  though  somewhat  shaken  by  his 
recollection  of  Burnaby's  scholarly  knowledge  of  the  Old 
Testament. 

Then  Burnaby  reduced  the  matter  to  pro  and  contra. 
"  I'll  back  myself  for  a  fiver  with  anybody,"  he  said, 
"  but  I  don't  like  doing  it  as  I  know  that  my  version  is 
the  correct  one." 

The  majority  took  his  bet.  I  fancy  that  Henry  Lucy 
and  I  were  the  only  men,  except  Henri  Deutsch,  out 
of  it. 

How  to  settle  it  ? 

"  There's  sure  to  be  a  Bible  in  the  library,"  observed 
a  member  of  the  club. 

Burnaby  rang.  The  butler  expecting  orders  for  some 
particular  wine,  or  for  some  special  beverage  (punch  per- 
haps) appeared. 

Burnaby  asked  him,  "  Is  there  a  Bible  here  ?  ' 

Never  was  steward  of  club  more  taken  aback.  Had 
he  heard  correctly  ? 

"  A  Bible  ?  "  he  repeated,  doubtful  of  his  having  heard 
aright.  Bucellus,  Burgundy,  Brandy,  any  liquor  be- 
ginning with  "  B  "  !     But— Bible  !  !  ! 

"  Yes,"  repeated  Burnaby,  plucking  up,  for  even  he 
had  been  afraid  of  his  own  question.  '  Is  there  a  Bible 
in  the  library  ?  " 

*  See  the  Vanity  Fair  cartoon  in  this  volume. 

M 


202  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

The  butler  hesitated.  "  I  don't  think,  sir — at  least 
I'm  not  sure,"  he  began.     Then  he  made  a  suggestion. 

"  If  you  want  to  look  at  a  Bible  sir,"  said  the  butler — 
the  host  nodded  affirmatively — "  well,  sir,  if  you  don't 
mind  I  can  bring  you  one  up — from  below," — here  there 
was  an  audible  smile — "  I  mean,  sir,  from  the  servants' 
hall." 

"  Thank  you  very  much,"  said  Burnaby.  "  Let  us 
have  it  as  quickly  as  you  can.     Thanks." 

The  butler  retired.  We  were  all  much  interested.  He 
had  given  us  a  text  for  conversation.  Presently  he  re- 
appeared with  the  Bible  ;  a  big  family  Bible.  He  pre- 
sented it  to  Burnaby  ;  then  withdrew,  wondering. 

Burnaby  opened  the  book. 

"  The  very  Bible  we  want,"  he  exclaimed.  "It  is  one 
of  the  old  ones,  with  pictures." 

We  wanted  to  know  why  he  was  so  pleased  about  the 
illustrations. 

"  Because,"  he  replied,  "  the  illustration  will  show 
you  how  your  mistake  originated,  and  the  text  will  prove 
my  case.  Now,"  he  continued,  as  he  carefully  opened  the 
book  and  gradually  arrived  at  the  chapter,  "  you  all 
say  that  Absalom  was  caught  by  his  hair  in  a  branch  of  a 
tree,  and  so  was  suspended,  eh  ?  " 

"  Yes,"  was  the  answer  unanimously. 

"  And  I  said,"  continued  Burnaby,  "  that  Absalom 
was  caught  not  by  his  hair  at  all,  but  in  a  forked  branch  of 
the  tree,  and  I  will  add  that  your  mistake  arose  from  the 
illustration  which  so  represents  him." 

"  But,"  I  interrupted,  "  the  weight  of  his  hair  which 
caught  in  the  tree,  and  was  subsequently  cut  off,  is 
given." 

"  Quite  right,"  our  host  replied,  "  but  that  occurs 
in  a  verse  later  on  in  the  same  chapter." 

By  this  time  he  had  found  the  place,  likewise  the  illus- 
tration— II.  Samuel  xviii.,  9  :  And  Absalom  rode  wpon  a 
mule,  and  the  mule  went  under  the  thick  boughs  of  a  great 
oak,  and  his  head  caught  hold  of  the  oak,  and  he  was  taken 


TRAVELS    IN    SPAIN    AND    TUNIS         203 

up  between  the  heaven  and  the  earth  ;  and  the  mule  that  was 
under  him  went  away. 

"  Nothing   about   his   being   caught   by   the   hair  ?" 
asked  Lucy. 

"  No,"  replied  Burnaby,  "  I  have  given  you  the  verse 
just  as  it  is.  I  will  pass  the  book  and  you  can  judge  for 
yourself.  But  first  I  will  read  you  the  marginal  note. 
It  says  :  Some  suppose  that  Absalom  was  caught  by  the 
hair  ;  but  it  seems  more  probable  that  his  head  and  neck  were 
caught  in  the  forks  of  a  strong  bough,  as  he  was  nearly  dead 
when  Joab  found  him. 

"  Then  at  verse  14,"  continued  Burnaby,  "  Joab  finds 
him  and  thrusts  three  darts  through  his  heart  while  he  was 
yet  alive.'''' 

The  Bible  was  passed  round,  and  the  passage  closely 
scrutinised. 

"  And,"  said  Burnaby,  "  look  at  the  picture." 

We  did  so.  Yes,  that  had  been  the  origin  of  our  im- 
pression. It  represented  Absalom  hanging  by  his  hair, 
which  had  become  coiled  about  the  huge  branch  of  a 
tree. 

"  But,"  observed  one  of  the  losers,  "  where  is  the  refer- 
ence to  the  weight  of  Absalom's  hair  ?  That  ought  to  be 
in  the  same  chapter  ?  " 

"  No,"  said  Burnaby,  "  I  was  wrong  in  my  recollec- 
tion of  its  proper  place  in  the  text.  Now  I  remember. 
I  think  it  is  to  be  found  in  a  rather  earlier  chapter." 

The  Bible  was  handed  back  to  our  host,  who,  within 
another  minute,  had  put  his  finger  on  the  quotation  re- 
quired.    It  was  found  in  chapter  xiv.  of  II.  Samuel,  v.  25  : 

there  was  none  to  be  so  much  praised  as  Absalom 

for  his  beauty. 

V.  26  :  And  when  he  polled  his  head  ....  because  the 
hair  was  heavy  on  him,  therefore  he  polled  it  ....  he 
weighed  the  hair  of  his  head  at  two  hundred  shekels  after  the 
king's  weight. 

Everyone  was  at  once  ready  to  pay  up,  but  Burnaby 


204  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

refused  their  tenders.  "  My  dear  chaps,"  he  explained, 
"  I  was  betting  on  an  absolute  certainty." 

On  August  22nd  Burnaby  was  present  at  the  Crystal 
Palace  on  the  occasion  of  the  Foresters'  Fete,  and  wit- 
53— Speeches  at  nessed  the  ascent  of  Mr.  Wright's  balloon 

Birmingham  j<]ie    Gem    and    a    new    aerostat    of    great 

and  .  °. 

Wednesbury,  capacity  which  had  not  at  that  time  received 
Oct.  1883.     a   name  .  an(j  by  October  he  had  so  far 

recovered  his  health  as  to  be  able  to  take  part  again  at 
political  gatherings,  his  first  appearance  being  at  a  Bir- 
mingham meeting  presided  over  by  Earl  Percy. 

After  thanking  his  audience  for  the  enthusiastic  recep- 
tion accorded  to  him,  and  acknowledging  the  sympathy 
expressed  both  by  them  and  his  Radical  opponents  dur- 
ing his  illness,  he  commenced  his  speech  by  a  slashing 
attack  on  Mr.  Chamberlain,  who  had  charged  the  land- 
lord class  with  being  one  that  toiled  not  and  that  did  not 
spin.  He  said  that  he  had  been  making  an  enquiry 
as  to  the  incomes  of  the  seven  leading  members  of  the 
late  Conservative  ministry  and  of  the  seven  leading 
members  of  the  Liberal  ministry  ;  with  the  result  of 
discovering  that  the  seven  Conservatives  received  in  all 
£325,000  a  year,  and  the  seven  Liberals  £400,000  a  year,  a 
fact  which  he  bade  his  opponents  ponder.  He  then 
compared  the  position  which  England  occupied  among 
the  nations  in  Lord  Beaconsfield's  time  with  that  under 
his  Radical  successors  ;  and  he  pointed  to  one  part  of  the 
world  after  another  in  order  to  illustrate  his  charge 
against  the  weakness  of  Mr.  Gladstone's  foreign  policy. 

The  home  policy  of  his  opponents  pleased  him  no 
better.  "  The  Radicals,"  he  said,  "  throw  out  a  bait  to 
the  have-nots  to  enrich  themselves  at  the  expense  of 
those  who  have.  This  bait,  if  swallowed  by  the  working 
classes,  would  ruin  them.  Were  capital  taken  from  our 
shores,  factories  would  be  taken  from  our  shores,  and, 
like  the  leaders  and  demagogues  of  the  first  French 
revolution,  those  men  who  had  taught  their  fellow  coun- 
trymen to  spoil,  would,  after  sowing  the  wind,  reap  the 


TRAVELS    IN    SPAIN    AND    TUNIS         205 

whirlwind,  and  be  the  next  victims  of  their  dissatisfied 
and  enraged  dupes." 

Towards  the  end  of  the  year,  Burnaby,  who  had  just 
lost  his  mother,  removed  from  Charles  Street  and  took 
up  his  residence  at  36,  Beaufort  Gardens,  which  had  been 
Mrs.  Burnaby's  home  subsequent  to  the  death  of  her  hus- 
band and  here,  when  in  England,  he  spent  the  rest  of 
his  life. 

By   the   time   of   his   removal,    Burnaby's   oratorical 
exertions  and  the  vitiated  atmosphere  of  crowded  halls 
had  once  more  told  upon  his  health,  and  he 
again  hurried  off  to  his  old  sanatorium, —  *  yisit  to 

Seville.     After  paying  a  visit  to  the  Tinto  Sp  ™ffo0ct' 

Copper  Mines,  in  which  he  had  shares, 
and  exploring  the  Solomon  country*  generally,  he  crossed 
to  Algiers,  where  he  inspected  some  regiments  of  French 
troops,  which  displeased  him  because  "  there  was  neither 
order  nor  discipline  among  them  "  ;  and  from  Algiers  he 
wandered  into  Tunis,  in  order  to  visit  the  ruins  of  ancient 
Carthage  and  the  scenes  of  Flaubert's  Salammbo. 

His  first  appearance  before  the  public  on  his  return 
was  at  Bristol, f  where  he  spoke  on  the  subjects  of  Ireland 
and  India.     In  the  course  of  his  speech —  55— Burning 
one  of  the  most  vigorous  he  ever  delivered      Speec ^  a* 
— he  said,  "  We  hold  India  by  the  sword  ;  where,  Nov.  and 
do  not  let  us  mince  words — we  hold  Ireland       Dec* 1883, 
in  a  similar  manner,  and  the  sooner  this  fact  is  recognised 
by  the  two  great  parties  in  the  State,  the  less  chance  there 
will  be  of  having  to  engage  in  a  civil  war.     As  was  said 
by  a  speaker  at  an  Orange  meeting  in  Ireland  a  few  days 
since,  '  You  say  that  our  ancestors  took  your  land  away 
from  you  two  hundred  years  ago ;  anyhow  we  have  got 
the  land  and  we  mean  to  stick  to  it.'     England  holds  Ire- 
land and  holds  India,  and  judging  from  what  I  know  of 

♦The  Romans  called  it  Tartesia.  Near  the  Rio  Tinto  are  Cerro  Salomon 
Peak  of  Soloman)  and  the  town  of  Salamea  la  Reale  (Royal  Solomon). 
Solomon  is  supposed  to  have  derived  part  of  his  wealth  from  the  district. 

fi3th  Nov.  1883. 


206  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

the  tenacity  of  my  fellow  countrymen,  they  will  not  be 
prepared  to  surrender  these  possessions  through  the 
sentimental  arguments  of  Mr.  Gladstone,  whose  father 
made  £60,000  out  of  slavery,  none  of  which  has  been  re- 
turned as '  conscience  money.' 

Politicians,  indeed,  did  not  fight  with  gloved  hands 
in  those  days.  Personalities  were  rife  ;  and  when  Bur- 
naby  was  thus  handling  Gladstone's  name,  there  was 
rankling  in  his  breast  the  remark  of  a  Radical  politician, 
who  declared  that  the  late  Lord  Beaconsfield*  never 
spoke  the  truth  except  by  mistake. 

Burnaby's  speech  was  received  everywhere  by  his  party 
with  commendation,  and  he  was  called  for  in  all  direc- 
tions. At  Preston,  where  he  addressed  three  thousand 
persons — the  staple  of  his  speech  was  a  denunciation  of 
the  Ilbert  Bill,  which  would  allow  Englishmen  to  be  tried 
by  Hindoos. 

'  In  times  back,"  he  said,  "  the  Anglo-Saxon  race 
was  actuated  by  the  grandest  sentiment  that  can  influ- 
ence a  people — by  patriotism — the  abnegation  of  self 
for  the  country's  cause — the  patriotism  which  stimulated 
Nelson,  Wellington,  and  the  heroes  of  Balaclava.  Things 
have  changed  of  late.  A  lover  of  his  country  is  called  a 
Jingo  ;  the  sentimentalist  who  helps  to  ruin  it  is  termed 
a  grand  old  man.  Legislators  have  been  found  un- 
mindful of  the  terrible  lessons  taught  us  by  the  Indian 
mutiny.  They  have  been  prepared  to  hand  over  English 
men  and  women  to  the  tender  mercies  of  a  race  alien 
to  us  in  religion,  alien  to  us  in  customs  ;  to  men  who  have 
no  idea  of  the  sanctity  of  an  oath,  to  whom  perjury 
is  a  convenient  method  of  settling  family  litigation.  Do 
not  imagine  that  by  saying  this  I  am  wishing  to  insult  the 
Indian  subjects  of  the  Queen — but  their  ways  are  not  our 
ways  ;  indeed,  if  they  had  been,  an  English  Company 
would  never  have  conquered  the  240,000,000  inhabitants 
who  people  Hindostan." 

After   referring    to    the    immorality    of   the    Hindoo 

*  Lord  Beaconsfield  died  19th  April  1881. 


TRAVELS    IN    SPAIN    AND    TUNIS         207 

religion,  Burnaby  continued  "  The  Ilbert  Bill  proposes 
to  enable  a  native  of  India,  provided  he  has  the  neces- 
sary qualifications,  to  try  British  subjects,  perhaps  in 
the  most  distant  places  of  Hindostan,  where  there  is  no 
Press,  no  public  opinion,  and  where  an  English  woman's 
honour  may  be  at  the  mercy  of  a  sensual  polygamist." 

He  ridiculed  the  Radical  argument  that  one  man  is  as 
good  as  another.  "  Is  the  criminal,"  he  asked,  "  as  good 
as  the  honest  and  industrious  working  man  ?  Never 
forget  that  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  is  a  dominant  race, 
a  race  dominant  throughout  the  world.  It  has  annexed 
vast  territories  ;  and  while  giving  to  the  natives  of  India 
the  benefits  of  civilisation  and  Christianity  (which  they 
do  not  appreciate),  Englishmen  have  taken  very  good 
care  to  enrich  themselves.  Lord  Stair,  when  told  by  a 
French  diplomatist  that  if  he  (the  Frenchman)  were  not 
a  Frenchman  he  would  like  to  be  an  Englishman,  re- 
plied, '  If  I  were  not  an  Englishman,  why,  then,  I  should 
like  to  be  one.' 

"  Have  you  forgotten  the  Black  Hole  of  Calcutta  ? 
A  thrill  of  horror  ran  through  England  when  the  news  of 
that  dreadful  tragedy  became  public.  Have  you  for- 
gotten the  Indian  Mutiny?  Should  the  Ilbert  Bill, 
even  in  its  present  emasculated  form,  become  law, 
it  will  not  be  long  before  still  direr  history  will  be  made. 
The  Radicals  have  remarked  that  India  is  a  Free  Trade 
country.  Why  is  this  so  ?  Because  British  bayonets 
rule  it,  not  because  of  any  initiative  on  the  part  of  the 
native  population.  Withdraw  English  troops  to-morrow, 
and  heavy  duties  would  at  once  be  placed  on  Lancashire 
goods.  Are  Englishmen,"  he  enquired,  "  going  to  allow 
their  own  flesh  and  blood  who  have  settled  in  India 
to  be  tried  unjustly,  sentenced,  and  finally  expelled, 
to  suit  the  cant  and  sentimentality  of  a  set  of  hobby- 
ridden  legislators  ?  " 

On  December  6th,  Burnaby  addressed  a  huge  meeting 
at  St.  George's  Hall,  Bradford,  where  his  subject  was  the 
Egyptian  policy  of  the  Government.     "  It  will  be  of  no 


208  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

use,"  he  said,  "  to  send  Egyptian  soldiers  against  the 
Mahdi.  Send  English  officers  and  English  troops,  and 
then  there  will  be  no  fear  as  to  the  result."  Unfortunate- 
ly the  Government  did  not  take  his  advice. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

december  1883  10th  january  1884. 

The  Founding  of  the  Primrose  League. 

Although  Burnaby  had  been  defeated  at  Birmingham, 
the  Conservative  party,  as  we  have  already  intimated, 
derived  great  benefit  from  the  contest — 
a  contest  which,  for  one  thing,  was  the 
56—  The  Prim-  means  of  bringing  about  that  important 
rose  League,  event  in  the  history  of  modern  Conservatism 
— the  founding  of  the  Primrose  League. 
Owing  to  the  enormous  expense  which  this  election  had 
entailed,  a  number  of  the  younger  and  more  militant 
Conservatives  were  led  to  ask  themselves  whether  some 
organization  could  not  be  formed  with  a  view  to  obtaining 
voluntary  workers  and  to  assisting  the  party  in  other 
ways  ;  and  the  matter  was  earnestly  discussed  one  Sun- 
day at  a  gathering  held  at  Lady  Dorothy  NevilPs  London 
house,  amongst  those  present  being  Lord  Randolph 
Churchill,  Sir  Henry  Drummond  Wolfe,  and  Sir  Algernon 
Borthwick  (now  Lord  Glenesk).  Lord  Randolph's  idea 
was  the  formation  of  a  secret  society,  "  with  officers  and 
organization  on  the  lines  of  the  Buffaloes,"  and  the 
scheme  which  he  drew  up  seemed  to  find  favour.  Mr. 
J.  B.  Stone  and  Colonel  Burnaby,  however,  pointed  out 
serious  defects  in  it ;  and  on  26th  November,  1883,  the 
former  wrote  to  Lord  Randolph  as  follows  : 

November  26th,  1883. 
Dear  Lord  Randolph, 

I  have  given  much  consideration  to  the  proposal 
to  found  a  Primrose  League.  I  am  now  more  firmly  con- 
vinced than  ever  that  it  would  be  a  worthless  effort  to 
try  to  found  a  Patriotic  Secret  Society,  having  merely  a 

(209)  M  2 


210  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

general  programme  of  principles  without  embracing 
a  positive  line  of  action.  I  believe,  however,  the  change 
into  a  Tory  Patriotic  League  (as  resolved)  may,  with  a 
very  carefully  prepared  scheme,  be  made  of  enormous  use 
to  the  Conservative  party,  and  a  most  valuable  weapon 
in  the  hands  of  a  young  party.  It  cannot  be  a  wholly 
Secret  Society  inasmuch  as  no  penalty  could  be  used  suffi- 
ciently strong  to  maintain  secrecy.  The  first  excluded 
or  discontented  member  would  make  public  the  whole 
programme  and  proceedings.  The  severest  penalty 
which  could  be  enforced  would  be  expulsion  or  some 
trifling  social  "  Ban,"  and  therefore  I  think  it  would  be 
wise  to  abandon  at  once  the  idea  of  the  scheme  being 
wholly  secret,  and  substitute  the  proposal  to  frame  a  rule 
that  all  Council  or  other  meetings  should  be  private, 
and  no  proceeding  reported  to  the  Press.  At  the  same 
time  it  might  be  arranged  to  hold  public  meetings, 
and  to  take  other  public  action  under  the  auspices  or 
direction  of  the  League,  but  all  such  proceedings  if 
originating  in  the  smaller  councils,  should  be  under 
the  superior  control  of  a  higher  Court. 

The  "  declaration  "  subscribed  to  by  joining  members 
should  be  something  more  than  the  approval  of  the 
principles  of  the  League  ;  it  should  include  an  undertak- 
ing to  promote  its  objects  on  all  seasonable  occasions, 
publicly  and  privately,  to  give  voluntary  aid  at  the  time 
of  elections,  and  particularly  to  promise  to  vote  without 
canvassing  for  those  candidates  supporting  the  principles 
set  forth  by  the  League.  Rules  should  be  framed  to 
provide  for  the  election  of  members,  for  expulsion,  etc., 
and  also  for  the  formation  of  higher,  middle,  and  lower 
councils,  appointment  of  officers,  their  designation,  and 
so  forth.  Further,  the  question  of  funds  must  be  con- 
sidered. I  would  suggest  that  payment  should  not  of 
necessity  be  required  to  become  a  member,  but  that 
each  divisional  court  should  raise  its  own  funds  in  its 
own  way,  and  control  its  expenditure.  A  further  rule 
might  regulate  the  wearing  of  badges. 


FOUNDING    OF    PRIMROSE    LEAGUE      211 

You  will  see  that  such  a  programme  would  meet  many 
of  the  difficulties  arising  out  of  the  provisions  of  the  new 
Corrupt  Practices  Act,  it  would  promote  voluntary  activ- 
ity, and  generally,  if  the  League  grew  to  any  considerable 
extent,  it  would  become  of  great  value  to  the  Conserva- 
tive Party. 

Pray  excuse  so  long  a  letter, 

I  am,  dear  Lord  Randolph, 
Yours  truly, 

J.  B.  Stone. 
Fortunately,  for  the  Conservative  Party,  Mr.  Stone's 
recommendations  were  warmly  welcomed,  and  the  sug- 
gestion of  Sir  Drummond  Wolfe  that  the  Society,  which 
had  been  named  (after  Lord  Beaconsfield's  favourite 
flower),  The  Primrose  League,  should  be  formed  "  on  a  sort 
of  masonic  basis,  with  different  grades,  such  as  associates, 
councillors,  and  the  like,"  was  also  promptly  adopted. 

In  the  meantime  Birmingham  Conservatives  had  come 
to  the  conclusion  that  it  was  advisable  to  obtain  for  the 
next  election  contest  a  statesman  of  the  first  rank, 
possessor  of  a  strong  personality,  to  run  with  Burnaby  ; 
and  Mr.  Joseph  Rowlands,  who  had  ascertained  that 
Lord  Randolph  Churchill  would  probably  be  willing 
to  come  forward,  was  officially  authorised  to  approach 
his  lordship  on  the  subject.  Before  giving  a  definite 
reply,  Lord  Randolph  consulted  Mr.  Stone,  by  means  of 
a  letter  dated  December  11th,  1883,  which  runs  as  follows : 

2,  Connaught  Place, 
December  11th,  1883. 

Dear  Mr.  Stone, 

It  may  interest  you  to  know  that  the  Committee  (of 
the  Primrose  League)  met  on  Saturday,  and  having  voted 
me  into  the  chair  by  four  to  three, directed  me  to  com- 
municate to  Lord  Salisbury  the  history  of  its  formation, 
and  to  ask  for  an  interview  with  him.  This  was  agreed 
to 

I  have  been  asked  whether  I  will  stand  for  Birmingham 
in  conjunction  with   Colonel  Burnaby.     What  is  your 


212  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

opinion  of  this  ?  I  should  not  be  unwilling  to  have  a  tilt 
at  the  stronghold  if  you  thought  well  of  it.  Let  me  have 
a  few  lines  at  your  leisure. 

Yours  very  truly, 

Randolph  S.  Churchill. 

In  his  reply,  Mr.  Stone  pointed  out  the  difficulties 
to  be  encountered,  but  nevertheless  expressed  his  opinion 
that  the  attack  should  be  made.  Consequently  Lord 
Randolph  replied  to  Mr.  Rowlands  in  the  affirmative  ; 
and  a  little  later  Colonel  Burnaby  and  Lord  Randolph 
held  a  consultation  together,  Mr.  Rowlands  and  other 
prominent  Conservatives  being  present,  and  came  to  an 
understanding  upon  the  policy  to  be  followed  in  regard 
to  the  constituency.* 

Some  other  correspondence  ensued  between  Mr.  Stone 
and  Lord  Randolph  on  the  subject  of  the  Primrose 
League  ;  later  he  and  Col.  Burnaby  met  Lord  Randolph 
and  discussed  the  scheme  in  his  Lordship's  town  house, 
2,  Connaught  Place ;  and  by  the  spring  considerable  pro- 
gress had  been  made  with  it.  Two  small  rooms  in  Essex 
Street,  Strand,  were  hired  for  offices,  and  on  Primrose 
Day,  1884,  the  members  of  the  first  habitation  (that  for 
the  Strand  district)  met  and  banqueted  jjtogether. 
Then  the  scheme  went  forward  by  leaps  and  bounds. 
The  secretaries  could,  with  difficulty,  keep  pace  with  the 
enormous  influx  of  members,  and  the  rooms  in  Essex 
Street  were  exchanged  for  more  important  accommoda- 
tion in  Victoria  Street.  The  first  ruling  council  consisted 
of  Lord  Randolph  Churchill,  Sir  Henry  Drummond 
Wolfe,  Mr.  (now  Sir)  Benjamin  Stone,  Colonel  Burnaby, 
Mr.  (now  Sir)  John  Gorst,  Sir  A  Slade,  Mr.  (afterwards 
Sir)  William  Hardman,  Mr.  Percy  Mitford,  Mr.  (now  Sir 
Frederick)  Dixon-Hartland,  Sir  Henry  Hoare,  Mr.  J. 
Satchell  Hopkins,  Mr.  H.  H.  Wainwright,  Mr.  (now  Sir) 
Frederick  Seager  Hunt,  Mr.  J.  Batison,  and  Mr.  Hopkin- 
son.     The  first  Grand  Councillor  was  Lord  Abergavenny. 

*The  announcement  that  Colonel  Burnaby  and  Lord  Randolph  had 
been  selected  as  candidates  for  Birmingham  at  the  following  General 
Election  appeared  in  the  Birmingham  Daily  Post  for  26th  Jan.,  1884. 


FOUNDING    OF    PRIMROSE    LEAGUE      213 

Owing  to  his  duties,  Burnaby  passed  most  of  his  life 
in  London  and  at  Windsor,  and  many  anecdotes — all  of 
them    infinitely    to    his    credit — could    be 
told  concerning  his  connection  with  both    57_Anecdote8> 
places.     As  he  loved  courage,  whether  dis- 
played by  elephant  or  ant,  so  he  abhorred 
all  dastardly  conduct,  and  nothing  enraged  him  more  than 
to  see  a  woman  ill-treated.     One  day  as  the  Rev.  Robert 
Nutt*  was  going  up  from  Windsor  to  London  by  an  early 
morning  train,  Burnaby  jumped  into  the  same  compart- 
ment rather  out  of  breath,  and  with  the  usual  humorous 
twinkle  in  his  eye  he  remarked,  "  I've  just  pitched  over 
a  gateway  some  fellow  who  was  beating  a  woman." 

On  returning  to  Windsor  in  the  evening  Mr.  Nutt  learnt 
that  a  man  in  Peascod  Street,  who  that  morning  had  ill- 
treated  his  wife,  had  been  pulled  from  her  by  an  officer 
who  collared  him  and  tossed  him  over  the  closed  gates 
of  the  Star  and  Garter  Inn,  in  the  narrow  entry  called 
Death  Alley. 

Another  day  Burnaby,  when  walking  through  a  Wind- 
sor street,  was  splashed  by  a  scavenger  who,  on  being 
remonstrated  with,  observed  insultingly,  "  You  can  go 
and  wash  yourself  if  you  like."  In  an  instant  Burnaby 
seized  the  man  by  collar  and  corduroys,  and  tossed  him 
into  his  scavenging  cart  ;  and  as  the  fellow  rose  swearing 
and  gesticulating,  with  filth  dropping  from  every  projec- 
tion and  protuberance,  Burnaby  said,  with  his  smile 
Mephistophelian,  "You  needn't  go  and  wash  unless 
you  like  !  " 

It  will  be  remembered  that  when  Burnaby  was  ill  at 
Naples  his  life  was  endangered  owing  to  the  mistakes 
of  a  drunken  maid  servant.  One  day  some  years  after 
this  event  as  he  and  his  brother  were  walking  late  at 
night  down  Piccadilly,  they  happened  to  meet  the  un- 
happy woman,  and  noticed  how  ill  and  miserable  she 
looked. 

*Son   of   Col.    Fred's    old    tutor,    the    Rev.    W.   Y.    Nutt,    curate    of 
Burrough. 


214     LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

Burnaby,  who  recognised  her  in  a  moment,  at  once 
shook  hands  with  her  and  gave  her  a  couple  of  sovereigns. 
The  sad  spectacle  had  touched  him  to  the  quick,  and  as 
they  walked  away,  he  said  hoarsely,  "  She's  no  worse, 
Evelyn,  than  a  thousand  and  one  others." 

Once  he  had  occasion  to  reprove  a  soldier  for  not  wear- 
ing his  cap  properly.  A  few  weeks  later  the  man,  who 
in  the  meantime  had  left  the  regiment,  met  Burnaby  in 
the  street  and  tried  to  avoid  him  ;  but  Burnaby  went 
straight  up  to  him  and,  with  the  customary  twinkle  in 
his  eye,  said,  "  You  can  wear  your  cap,  Jones,  any  way 
you  please  now,  but  I  can't  permit  you  to  cut  old  friends." 

In  June  1882,  the  Rev.  Evelyn  Burnaby  took  a  little 
place  at  Penbury,  near  Tunbridge  Wells,  and  Mr  Edward 
Fleming,  son  of  the  Rev.  Canon  Fleming,  stayed  with 
him,  making  his  appearance  every  evening  after  leaving 
his  work  on  the  Stock  Exchange.  Colonel  Burnaby, 
having  been  invited  to  spend  a  weekend  at  Penbury, 
was  met  at  Tunbridge  Wells  Station  by  his  brother  and 
Mr.  Fleming.  That  night  after  dinner  Mr.  Fleming,  who 
had  just  joined  the  Middlesex  Yeomanry  Cavalry,  ad- 
mitted being  puzzled  by  some  of  the  drill  as  explained 
in  the  books. 

"  Don't  bother  your  head  with  drill  books,  my  boy," 
said  Burnaby ;  and  then  collecting  four  chairs,  he 
speedily  made  the  difficulties  disappear,  and  the  drill  as 
plain  as  A. B.C. 

Evelyn  drove  his  brother  back,  through  the  beech 
copses,  to  Tunbridge  Wells  Station.  The  sun  was  sink- 
ing in  crimson  and  amber,  contour  of  hedge  and  tree 
assumed  a  Murillo  indefiniteness,  the  earth  gave  out  her 
essences.  Burnaby  was  powerfully  moved.  "  Life," 
he  sighed,  ' '  would  be  worth  living  in  such  scenery  as  this 
if — one's  liver  would  only  leave  one  in  peace." 


CHAPTER    XV. 

10th  January  1884— 29th  march  1884. 

The  Two  Battles  of  El  Teb. 

In  the  meantime  events  had  been  thickening  in  the 
Soudan.     Hicks  Pasha's  army  was  totally  annihilated 

by  the  forces  of  the  Mahdi  on  5th  November 

_  of  EMTeb    1883,    and    Khartoum    and    other    towns 

4th  Feb.     in  the  vicinity  of  the  Nile  were  threatened 

by  the  Soudanese  hordes.  Just  as  Burn- 
aby  had  received  his  winter's  leave  of  absence,  a  telegram 
arrived  from  General  Baker's  wife,  begging  him  to  join 
her  husband  at  Suakim.  To  receive  a  request  of  that 
kind  was  with  Burnaby  to  consent  to  it  with  avidity, 
and  he  left  London,  accompanied  by  his  soldier  servant, 
Henry  Storey,  on  10th  January,  1884,  proceeding  via 
the  St.  Gothard's  Tunnel  and  Milan  to  Brindisi,  whence 
he  steamed  to  Suez.  At  every  turning  he  found  proofs 
of  the  shocking  mis-management  of  the  campaign  by  the 
Government  and  the  Anglo-Egyptian  military  authorities 
at  Cairo.  He  says,  "  There  was  a  troopship  going  to 
Suakim,  and  some  black  soldiers  were  at  Suez  ;  but,  as  I 
was  informed,  the  men  had  not  been  paid,  and  the  vessel 
would  not  leave  until  they  had  received  their  money- 
There  was  no  arrangement  on  board  the  boat  for  feeding 
these  men,  and  each  black  had  to  provision  himself 
for  the  five  days'  journey  down  the  Red  Sea — most  of 
them  bringing  bags  of  biscuits,  oranges,  etc.  They 
were  accompanied  in  many  instances  by  their  wives  and 
children.  Yet,  all  the  time  General  Baker  was  in  the 
direst  straits  for  troops,  and  he  had  been  promised  that 

(215) 


216     LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

they  should  be  sent  him.  "  And  now,"  continued  Burn- 
aby,  "  we  had  arrived  at  January  20th,  and  instead  of 
filling  the  steamers  with  men,  the  Minister  was  sending  a 
number  of  women  and  children,  at  a  moment  when  every 
available  berth  was  required  for  soldiers  ;  when  Sinkat 
was  almost  at  its  last  gasp,  and  when  it  was  believed  that 
Tokar  was  in  a  similar  condition.  At  last  our  troops 
were  paid.  They  had  been  taken  on  board,  some  of  them 
in  leg  irons  to  prevent  them  from  running  away.  A  stout, 
middle-aged  Egyptian,  a  major  in  rank,  commanded  the 
troops  ;  he  was  accompanied  by  his  wife,  an  Abyssinian 
slave,  whom  he  had  purchased,  and  two  children.  The 
black  and  the  Egyptian  officers  on  board  frequently 
quarrelled  ;  and  the  rank  and  file  not  only  quarrelled,  but 
fought  ;  nor  was  the  disturbance  quieted  until  a  young 
black  officer  who  owned  three  wives  jumped  below  with 
a  koorbag,  or  rhinoceros  hide  whip,  and  administered 
blows  right  and  left."  Such  was  the  material  sent  to 
assist  General  Baker.  But  that  was  not  the  worst. 
While  they  were  yet  in  sight  of  the  quivering  incandes- 
cence which  resolved  itself  into  Suakim,  the  Egyptians — 
officers  as  well  as  men — proved  themselves  arrant 
cowards.  The  very  mention  of  the  name  Arab  made 
them  tremble.  Baker's  camp  was  three  quarters  of  a 
mile  from  the  port,  and  after  twenty  minutes'  walk 
in  a  burning  sun,  Burnaby  found  himself  at  the  door  of 
Baker's  tent,  and  shaking  hands  with  his  old  friend. 

"  Three  thousand  friendly  Arabs,"  said  Baker,  "  are 
marching  to  Sinkat,  where  Tewfik  Bey  is  still  defending 
himself  with  a  few  hundred  soldiers.  These,  I  trust, 
will  rescue  Tewfik.  My  own  task  is  to  proceed  by  sea 
to  Trinkitat*  and  relieve  Tokar  by  an  expedition  from 
Trinkitat  harbour."  Unhappily,  however,  both  expedi- 
tions, owing  to  circumstances  quite  beyond  Baker's 
control,  were  doomed  to  frightful  failure. 

The  friendly  Arabs  had  scarcely  started  when  they 
learnt  that  the  English  Government  had  proclaimed  its 

*  Fifty  miles  to  the  south  east  of  Suakim. 


TWO    BATTLES    OF    EL    TEB  217 

intention  of  withdrawing  from  the  Soudan.  "  If  we  help 
Tewfik,"  our  allies  asked  themselves,  "  and  so  offend 
the  Mahdi  and  Osman  Digna,  who  will  save  us  from  their 
fury  when  the  English  are  gone  ?  "  Consequently, 
instead  of  relieving  Sinkat,  they  left  to  their  fate  its 
courageous  defenders,  who  were  massacred  to  a  man. 
On  January  31st  Burnaby  and  Baker  (Colonel  Hay  and 
Major  Harvey  accompanying  them),  embarked  for  Trink- 
itat,  with  a  force  of  4,500  Eyptian  soldiers,  and  on  their 
arrival  they  selected  for  their  camp  a  suitable  site,  which 
they  at  once  strengthened  by  throwing  up  earthworks. 
It  was  wonderful  to  see  the  energy  with  which  the 
Egyptians  worked.  Every  fresh  spadeful  of  earth,  they 
supposed,  would  make  Fort  Baker,  as  they  named  the 
camp,  so  much  the  stronger,  and  afford  additional  pro- 
tection to  themselves  from  the  enemy's  bullets.  Four 
days  later  Baker  and  his  men,  the  latter  with  craven 
hearts,  advanced  to  the  relief  of  Tokar.  But  their  fear 
of  the  Arabs  was  not  the  only  trouble  ;  many  of  them 
had  never  before  fired  a  rifle,  and  therefore  scarcely  dared 
handle  their  own  weapon.  Baker  and  Burnaby,  how- 
ever, in  the  brief  time  at  their  disposal,  did  their  best  to 
teach  these  new  levies  how  to  shoot,  and  urged  them 
not  to  be  afraid  of  the  Arabs,  to  whom  they  themselves, 
owing  to  the  superiority  of  their  weapons,  ought  to  be  a 
mortal  terror.  It  was  now  the  morning  of  February  4th. 
Baker  ordered  an  advance  in  the  form  of  three  squares — 
the  largest  composed  of  Egyptian  troops  with  the 
Krupps  and  Gatlings  in  the  front  ;  the  two  smaller, 
composed  of  Turks  and  blacks  in  the  rear — the  whole 
line  of  advance  and  the  flanks  being  enveloped  by  a  thin 
skirt  of  Egyptian  cavalry.  After  some  unskilful  skir- 
mishing, a  remarkable  scene  ensued.  Three  Arab  horse- 
men, having  shown  themselves  over  the  brow  of  a  hill, 
the  cavalry,  instead  of  facing  them,  turned  tail  and 
galloped  madly  away.  One  of  the  Arabs  rode  deliber- 
ately into  a  squadron,  and  cut  down  first  the  officer  in 
command,   who   made   no   attempt   to   defend  himself, 

N 


218     LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

although  he  had  his  sword  drawn,  and  then  two  more 
men  who,  like  their  officer,  made  no  defence  ;  and  he 
would  doubtless,  have  demolished,  single-handed,  the 
whole  of  the  cavalry  had  not  a  pistol  bullet  stopped 
his  work  of  destruction.  Then  burst  a  tremendous  fire 
from  the  large  square,  and  a  number  of  the  cavalry 
dropped,  killed  by  their  own  friends  of  the  infantry. 
This  completed  the  confusion,  the  whole  of  the  cavalry 
then  galloped  full  speed  from  the  field  of  battle  ;  and  the 
rout  of  the  cavalry  was  instantly  followed  by  the  breaking 
up  of  the  squares.  In  vain  Baker,  Burnaby  and  Harvey 
tried  to  rally  their  men.  The  sight  was  one  never  to  be 
forgotten,  some  four  thousand  men  rushing  pell-mell 
for  their  lives  from  a  few  hundred  Arabs,  who  speared 
them  as  if  they  were  sheep.  Baker  and  Burnaby,  finding 
the  Arabs  between  themselves  and  the  Egyptians,  hewed 
their  way  through  their  foes.  On  all  sides  could  be  seen 
Egyptians  on  their  knees  praying  for  mercy,  while  the 
handful  of  Englishmen  were  selling  their  lives  dearly. 
Here  an  Egyptian,  who  had  thrown  away  his  rifle  and 
had  run  two  or  three  hundred  yards,  could  be  observed 
undressing  himself  in  order  to  run  more  easily  ;  there  a 
Turk  galloping  as  fast  as  his  horse  could  go  and  firing  his 
carbine,  regardless  whether  he  hit  friend  or  foe  :  and 
though  the  English  officers  still  tried  to  rally  the  Egyp- 
tians, and  even  shot  some  of  the  more  cowardly,  nothing 
would  induce  the  others  to  stand. 

Among  those  who  escaped,  as  by  a  miracle,  was  Burn- 
aby's   servant.     When   the    squares   broke   up,    Storey, 

who   was   on    a   saddleless    and   bridleless 

59—  Storey's     horse,  made  a  dash  for  his  life,  but  he  pre- 

Escape.      sently  found  himself  surrounded  by  Arabs 

and  camels.  Fortunately  his  horse  was  a 
kicker,  and  after  letting  fly  with  the  whole  of  its  energy, 
it  carried  Storey,  who  was  hanging  to  its  neck,  right 
through  the  masses  of  Arabs.  A  few  hundred  yards 
further  on,  it  jumped  a  bush,  and  in  so  doing  threw  its 
rider.     Storey,  however,  managed  to  grip  the  collar  chain, 


From   The  Grapliic. 


COLONEL    BURNABY    AT    EL    TEB. 
28th   February,    1884. 


TWO    BATTLES    OF    EL    TEB  221 

and  as  the  terrified  horse  would  not  let  him  mount  he 
ran  by  its  side  still  holding  to  the  chain  ;  and  hotly  pur- 
sued by  the  howling  enemy — horse  and  man  racing  their 
breathless  race  with  death.  When  some  three  miles 
had  been  covered  they  overtook  Colonel  Burnaby,  who 
stopped  the  horse  and  asked  Storey  why  he  had  not 
mounted." 

1  The  wind  was  out   of  my  body,   sir,"   he  replied, 
"  and  the  horse  would  not  stand." 

Burnaby  gave  a  leg-up,  and  the  man  managed  to  re- 
main on  his  horse  till  he  was  beyond  the  pursuit  of  the 
foe. 

Trinkitat  regained,  it  was  discovered  that  2,300  men 
and  ninety  officers  had  been  killed  ;  and  such  was  the 
cowardice  of  the  Egyptians  that,  having  reached  the  sea, 
they  ran  into  the  water  up  to  their  necks,  afraid  of  an 
enemy  not  within  three  miles  of  them.  With  their 
reduced  force,  their  stores,  horses,  etc.,  Baker  and  Burn- 
aby embarked  next  morning  for  Suakim  ;  and  thus  ter- 
minated one  of  the  most  shameful  and  amazing  incidents 
in  the  history  of  modern  warfare. 

Burnaby  laid  all  the  blame  for  the  misfortune  on  Mr. 
Gladstone  and  the  Cairo  officials  who,  but  for  that  Minis- 
ter's announcement  that  the  Soudan  was  to 
be   surrendered,   would  have  sent  on  bet-         Battle  of  El 
ter  fighting  material ;  and  his  feelings  were  Teb,  28th 

more  bitter  than  ever  against  the  Liberal 
Government.  Almost  the  first  news  that  reached  the 
defeated  army  on  its  arrival  at  Suakim,  was  that  the 
chief  command  had  been  taken  from  Baker  and  con- 
ferred on  Admiral  Hewett — the  former  being  thus  pun- 
ished for  the  shortcomings  of  his  superiors.  Hewett, 
though  scarcely  an  ideal  man  for  the  post,  did  his  best — 
one  of  his  first  acts  being  to  reorganise  the  black  troops 
and  to  officer  them  with  men  of  their  own  colour  in  place 
of  the  dastardly  Egyptians.  But  in  the  meantime  the 
Government,  lashed  to  action  by  an  exasperated  public — 
for  England  was  at  last  thoroughly  roused— had  sent  out 


222  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

under  General  Graham,  another  expedition,  and  the  first 
contingent,  the  10th  Hussars,  under  Colonel  Wood, 
arrived  just  after  the  El  Teb  disaster.  Their  first  act 
was  to  take  over  the  horses  belonging  to  the  Egyptian 
cavalry,  who,  instead  of  grumbling  at  this  proceeding, 
surrendered  them  joyfully — and  the  word  went  round — 
"  How  kind  these  English  are  ;  they  take  our  horses, 
groom  them,  and  are,  absolutely,  going  to  fight  our  battles 
for  us." 

On  General  Graham's  arrival  at  Suakim,  Baker  and 
Burnaby,  having  requested  employment,  were  placed  in 
the  Intelligence  Department,  and  they  returned  to 
Trinkitat,  where  most  of  the  English  troops  had  already 
landed.  From  the  new  camp  near  that  town  the  English 
could  plainly  see  Fort  Baker,  which  had  been  occupied 
by  the  Arabs,  and  on  the  parapet  of  which  waved  a  red 
flag.  Bodies  of  the  enemy  could  be  discerned  in  the 
distance,  but  when  Major  Harvey  and  Burnaby  rode  on 
with  some  mounted  infantry  to  make  a  reconnaissance, 
the  Arabs  fell  back.  The  question  was  whether  or  not 
there  were  any  of  them  behind  the  earthworks. 

"  I  will  have  that  flag,"  said  Harvey,  "  Arabs  or  no 
Arabs." 

"  Unless  I  get  it  !  "  said  Burnaby. 

And  setting  spurs  to  their  horses,  they  raced  at  full 
speed  for  the  prize  ;  but  Burnaby's  seventeen  stone 
being  no  match  against  the  lighter  man,  he  was  beaten 
by  at  least  three  lengths.  The  fort  proved  to  be  deserted, 
and  a  little  later  it  was  occupied  by  General  Graham. 

"  How  useful,"  observed  Burnaby,  "  a  captive  balloon 
would  be  now  !  It  would  enable  us  to  locate  with  pre- 
cision the  position  of  the  enemy."* 

\.  In  the  former  expedition  the  Egyptians  had  trembled 
with  fear  ;  the  only  fear  of  their  English  successors  was 
lest  the  Arabs  should  not  stand  and  fight.  On  the  morn- 
ing, of  February  28th,  General  Graham  prepared  to  attack 

*  See  also  his  remarks  in  Fortnightly  Review  (May  1884)  where  he  says 
that  an  aeronaut  700  feet  above  Fort  Baker  could  easily  have  given  all 
the  information  required  respecting  the  enemy's  entrenchments. 


TWO    BATTLES    OF    EL    TEB  223 

the  enemy.  Having  sent  forward  a  thin  stream  of  cav- 
alry and  mounted  infantry,  he  himself,  with  the  main 
army,  formed  into  one  large  square,  followed  at  a  distance 
of  about  a  mile.  Burnaby,  who  rode  with  the  mounted 
infantry,  could  see  as  he  passed  the  site  of  the  previous 
battle  great  flocks  of  vultures,  who  were  still  busy 
gorging  themselves  on  the  corpses.  The  cavalry  were 
ordered  not  to  fire  on  meeting  the  enemy  but  to  fall 
back  slowly.  Presently  signs  of  the  Arabs  were 
manifest,  and  it  was  found  that  they  had  secured  them- 
selves behind  some  excellent  entrenchments  and  a  low 
parapet,  mounted  with  the  Krupp  guns,  which  had  been 
taken  from  the  Egyptians.  Burnaby,  who  could 
see  only  about  forty  men  in  the  forts,  rode  back  and 
told  Graham  how  matters  stood  ;  but  Baker,  who  was 
riding  with  Graham,  observed  :  "  Yes,  but  you  may  de- 
pend upon  it  the  Arabs  are  in  very  large  force  there  for 
I  have  just  seen  through  my  glasses  a  thousand  heads 
rise  for  an  instant,  as  it  were  from  the  ground,  and 
then  disappear." 

Graham,  having  determined  to  turn  the  enemy's 
position,  instead  of  attacking  it  in  front,  the  pipes  were 
ordered  to  play,  and  the  whole  force  advanced  briskly 
and  with  enthusiasm.  At  a  distance  of  a  thousand  yards 
the  Arabs  opened  fire,  and  Graham's  men  began  to  fall, 
among  those  hit  being  General  Baker,  who  received, 
to  use  Mr.  Melton  Prior's  expression,  "  a  beastly  shrapnel 
bullet  weighing  three  ounces  "  in  his  collarbone.  He 
dismounted,  in  compliance  with  the  importunity  of  his 
friends,  in  order  to  have  the  wound  dressed — but  in  five 
minutes  he  was  again  in  the  saddle.  Acting  under  orders, 
the  whole  British  force  then  lay  flat  on  the  ground  ; 
and  the  Arabs  must  have  been  amazed  indeed,  to  see 
an  enemy,  not  running  away,  but  coolly  lying  down, 
and  not  returning  a  single  shot  in  reply  to  their  projectiles. 
Then  belched  the  Gardners  and  Gatlings  their  streams 
of  iron,  and  the  guns  of  the  enemy  having  been  silenced, 
the  bugler  sounded  the  advance.     Instantly  the  British 


224  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

soldiers  sprang  to  their  feet,  but  they  had  scarcely  begun 
their  march  forward  with  fixed  bayonets  when,  with  wild 
cries  and  brandished  weapons  the  Arab  myriads  poured 
down  upon  them  in  cataracts — bearing  both  on  front  and 
flank.  Again  and  again,  flock  after  flock,  were  mown 
down  like  corn,  but  the  more  there  were  slain  the  more, 
it  seemed,  there  were  pouring  behind  them.  "  Burnaby, 
in  his  shirt  sleeves  and  without  coat  or  waistcoat,  picked 
off  the  enemy  much  as  a  crack  shot  would  kill  big  game.* 
'  It  was  marvellous,"  he  said  afterwards,  "  to  see  how 
they  came  on,  heedless  of  death,  shouting  and  brandish- 
ing their  weapons."  To  right  and  left  they  fell.  Even 
the  wounded  leaped  again  to  their  feet  and  rushed 
forward.  A  few  got  within  ten  paces  of  the  square. 
At  last  the  Arabs  were  checked,  and  they  suddenly  fell 
back  towards  their  parapet.  Again  and  again  Burnaby, 
in  spite  of  the  warnings  of  Mr.  Bennet  Burleigh,  who  was 
on  horseback  and  could  clearly  see  the  danger,  moved  out 
of  the  face  of  the  square  to  fire  over  the  parapet ;  then,  too, 
when  the  British  forces  made  a  rush  on  the  fort,  Burnaby, 
with  his  double-barrelled  shot  gun,  was  the  first  to  reach 
it.  While  ascending  the  parapet  he  was  surrounded  by 
five  or  six  Arabs,  who  attacked  him  altogether,  but 
having  fired  off  both  the  barrels  of  his  gun,  he  defended 
himself  with  the  butt  end  of  it.  An  Arab  spear  pierced 
his  left  arm,  and  he  might  have  been  overcome  had  not  a 
Gordon  Highlander  dashed  to  his  assistance  with  a 
bayonet.  Storey,  too,  had  another  narrow  escape, 
his  horse's  skull  having  been  smashed  by  an  Arab  shell. f 
Eventually,  however,  the  enemy  took  to  flight,  leaving 
on  the  battlefield  some  2,000  dead.  The  day  being 
over  and  the  battle  won,  the  wounded  received  orders  to 
return  to  Suakim.  Baker,  who  suffered  tortures  from 
his  wound,  Burnaby  with  his  disabled  arm,  and  a  few 
men  of  the  10th  Hussars,   rode  straight  to  Trinkitat, 

*Mr.  Melton  Prior. 

f  In  the  fall  Storey  was  pinned  to  the  ground  by  the  animal's  body,  but 
a  Cairo  mounted  policeman  released  him,  and  he  sustained  no  particular 
hurt. 


> 


WELL    DONE,     FRED  ' 
From  The  Dart,   7th   March,  1S84. 
After  the  Battle  of  El  Teb. 


Draun  by  E.  C.  Mountfort. 


TWO    BATTLES    OF    EL    TEB  227 

passing  on  their  way  the  old  Egyptian  battlefield  ; 
and  when  Burnaby,  gazing  on  the  frightful  sight  of  mutil- 
ated and  foul-smelling  corpses,  thought  of  the  dead  brave 
Arabs,  he  vented  in  uncontrolled  language,  his  bit- 
ter feelings  against  the  author  of  all  the  trouble. 
"  Many  an  Arab  widow  and  many  an  Arab  mother," 
he  said,  "  must  have  cursed  to  the  pit  the  author  of  all 
those  disasters  in  the  Soudan— the  Prime  Minister  of  Eng- 
land. If  only  the  English  Government  had  acted  prompt- 
ly five  months  earlier,  all  this  bloodshed  would  have  been 
spared."  On  arriving  at  Trinkitat,  he  proceeded,  via 
Suez,  to  Cairo,  where  he  was  received  by  the  Khedive, 
who  presented  him  with  the  Soudan  medal  and  the  Khe- 
dive star. 

"  Colonel    Fred    Burnaby,"    commented    an    English 

paper,*  "  is,  I  see,  on  his  way  home Meanwhile, 

it  may  be  well  if  Members  of  Parliament  of  a  discontented 
turn  of  mind,  and  their  representatives  in  the  Press, 
would  abstain  from  disparaging  the  action  of  Colonel 
Burnaby  in  volunteering  his  services  at  a  crisis.  From 
certain  comments,  it  would  seem  that  it  is  disgraceful 
for  an  English  officer  to  give  his  assistance  in  an  emer- 
gency to  his  countrymen  when  he  finds  himself  in  a  posi- 
tion to  do  so.  We  may  be  sure  the  people  of  England  will 
value  the  services  of  Col.  Burnaby  at  their  right 
value." 

After  nursing  his  wound  for  a  few  days  at  Cairo,  he 
hastened  home,  reaching  it  on  March  29th,  arm  in  a  sling, 
but  otherwise  not  a  tittle  the  worse  for  his  adventure. 
As  a  relic  of  the  fight  he  brought  with  him  the  "  beastly 
shrapnel  bullet  weighing  three  ounces,"  but,  after 
having  it  mounted  on  a  stand  with  mortar  for  matches, 
he  returned  it  to  the  man  who  had  most  right  to  it — his 
friend  Baker. 

In  England  Burnaby  received  a  warm  welcome,  both 
from  his  relations  and  friends  and  the  public — among 

•  Judy  I  think. 


228  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

those   who    congratulated  him  being  Mr. 

and  Mrs.  Benjamin  Stone.     Little   Harry 

61— Anecdotes.  ,  .  * 

Burnaby  was  very  troubled  on  account  ol 

the  injury  to  his  father's  arm,  and  wanted 

to  know  just  how  it  happened.     On  being  told,  he  said, 

with  emphasis,  "  when  me  get  a  big  man,  me  get  a  big 

sword,  and  kill  the  man  who  hurt  my  father." 

Harry  Burnaby  has  improved  in  his  grammar,  and 
added  many  inches  to  his  stature  since  that  day — for  he 
is  almost  as  tall  as  was  his  valiant  father  ;  but  that  he 
will  ever  come  across  the  particular  Arab  against  whom 
he  vowed  vengeance  is  now  problematical. 

"  There  is  one  prayer  in  the  Litany,"  observed  Burn- 
aby to  Mrs.  Stone,  "  which  I  never  repeat." 

"  And  what  is  that  ?  "  she  enquired. 

"  From sudden   death   Good   Lord   deliver 

us." 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

30th  march  1884  —  10th  November  1884. 

The  Birmingham  Riots. 

bibliography. 

12.  Possibilities  of  Ballooning,   Fortnightly  Review,  vol. 

35,  N.S.     May  1884. 

13.  Our    Radicals.     Written    in    1884.     Published    in 

2  vols.,  1886. 

A  few  days  after  Burnaby's  return,  it  was  arranged 

that  he  and  Lord  Randolph  should  visit  Birmingham 

and  speak  from  the  same  platform.     The 

62—  The  El  Teb  news  which  they  had  from  time  to  time 
Speeches,  15th  ,    „  . ,     .  ,  e 

April,  1884.     received  from  their  supporters,  was    oi  a 

most  satisfactory  nature,  and  Burnaby 
became  convinced  that  at  the  next  election*  they  would 
both  be  returned.  On  his  way  to  Birmingham — and  he 
was  now  a  popular  hero  as  well  as  a  Conservative  candi- 
date— his  train  halted  for  a  few  minutes  at  Leamington, 
where  he  was  met  by  a  number  of  Conservative  gentle- 
men, headed  by  the  Mayor  ;  and,  having  alighted  from 
his  carriage,  he  gave  a  brief  speech.  "  Every  British 
soldier,"  he  said,  "  in  a  foreign  land  in  a  time  of  war  does 
his  best — in  a  word,  his  duty.  I  have  done  neither  more 
nor  less  than  any  other  officer  or  soldier  in  the  Soudan." 
At    Birmingham    he    received    a    tremendous    ovation. 

*  A  little  later,  as  the  result  of  the  Redistribution  of  Seats  Bill,  Birming- 
ham was  divided  into  seven  constituencies,  but,  at  the  time  we  speak  of,  it 
was  supposed  that  Burnaby  and  Lord  Randolph  would  contest  the  town 
on  the  old  lines. 

(229)  N  2 


230  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

The  Town  Hall,  in  which  the  meeting  took  place,* 
was  crowded  to  the  doors,  and  great  numbers  were  unable 
to  gain  admittance.  Burnaby,  whose  arm  was  still  in  a 
sling,  made  a  vigorous  onslaught  upon  the  Government, 
his  principal  grievance  being  its  slothfulness  in  effecting 
an  advance  on  Khartoum,  where  Gordon  remained  be- 
sieged by  the  troops  of  the  Mahdi ;  and  then  he  gave 
a  circumstantial  account  of  the  first  battle  of  El  Teb — 
speaking  with  marvellous  force,  and  not  omitting  to 
accentuate  the  causes  which  led  to  the  defeat  of  the 
Khedive's  forces.  At  the  conclusion  he  promised  to 
continue  his  narrative  on  the  following  night,  and  as  he 
left  the  Hall  he  received  another  ovation  from  his  sup- 
porters, who  escorted  him  amid  vociferous  cheering 
to  the  Grand  Hotel.  Next  evening  the  Town  Hall  was 
again  crowded  ;  and  Lord  Randolph  having  given  his  in- 
augural address  as  newly-elected  President  of  the  Midland 
Conservative  Club,  Burnaby  fulfilled  his  promise  of  the 
preceding  night. 

His  account  of  the  second  battle  of  El  Teb,  and  the 
intrepidity  of  both  the  English  troops  and  their  Arab 
opponents,  the  tremor  of  his  voice  and  the  evident 
sincerity  of  every  word  uttered,  moved  his  hearers  to  their 
centre  ;  and  he  thus  concluded  what  was  perhaps  the 
most  telling  of  all  his  speeches.  "A  few  days  after  the 
second  battle,  we  learnt  that  the  Government  had  deter- 
mined to  scuttle  out  of  Suakim,  leaving  that  brave  and 
gallant  man,  General  Gordon,  surrounded  by  his  oppo- 
nents-— that  man  who,  putting  his  faith  in  Mr.  Gladstone 
and  his  colleagues,  went  with  his  life  in  his  hands  to  Khar- 
toum to  negotiate  with  the  Mahdi,  but  who,  when  he 
asked  for  a  small  detachment  of  cavalry,  was  refused  ; 
whose  provisions  must  day  by  day  be  getting  more  and 
more  scanty,  who  must  be  daily  getting  further  and  fur- 
ther away  from  civilisation,  and  more  and  more  sur- 
rounded by  his  opponents  ;  that  brave  man,  whom  all 
England  loves  ;  who  worked  for  years  past  conscientiously, 

•April  15th. 


ABSENT  FRIENDS;    OR,  HOW  I  DEFENDED  BURNABY! 


Lord  Randolph  Churchill   (gallantly):     '  You  shall  only  reach  him 

-Punch,  29th  March,  1884. 


through  me 


By  special  permission  of  the  Proprietors  of  Fundi. 


THE    BIRMINGHAM    RIOTS  233 

straightforwardly,  not  so  much  for  thrones  or  honours, 
but  for  the  English  people.  And  he  is  to  be  abandoned 
at  Khartoum  !  Gordon  may  die  in  order  to  let  Mr.  Glad- 
stone's Government  live  !  Allow  me,  my  friends,  here, 
Radicals  as  well  as  Conservatives,  to  make  an  appeal  to 
you— for  you  all,  Radicals  as  well  as  Conservatives, 
you  all  love  Gordon — let  me  ask  you— all  of  you,"  he 
cried  vehemently,  "  Englishmen,  Scotchmen,  and  Irish- 
men, to  unite  together  to  force  this  cowardly  Govern- 
ment of  time-servers  to  rescue  General  Gordon.  It 
would  not  be  so  difficult  to  do  it.  Even  during  the  sum- 
mer months  preparations  might  be  made.  The  dis- 
tinguished General*  who  so  ably  conducted  the  expedi- 
tion on  the  Red  River  would,  I  feel  convinced,  if  it  were 
offered  him,  at  once  accept  the  command  of  such  an  ex- 
pedition ;  and  however  much  the  hatred  of  war  may  be 
in  the  hearts  of  Radicals  and  Liberals,  as  well  as  Conserva- 
tives, I  feel  that  there  is  not  one  man,  not  one  woman, 
not  one  child  in  England  who,  if  the  case  were  put 
straightforwardly  before  them,  would  not  at  once  say, 
'  Spare  no  money,  but  rescue  General  Gordon.'  " 

Burnaby  had  spoken  what  he  felt,  and  his  success  was 
owing  less  to  the  genius  in  him  than  to  the  workings  of  a 
natural  law.  He  let  himself  go  ;  and  as  many  another 
in  similar  circumstances  has  done,  he  "  spake,"  to 
borrow  an  expression  from  Stendhal,  "  a  language  that 
was  foreign  to  him." 

When  he  sat  down  a  small,  mean-looking  man,  who 
was  close  to  the  platform  rose  and  said, 
"They  paid  me  to  interrupt,  but  since    "^gJiiKa 
you  spoke  of  the  war  I  wish  I  hadn't. 
I  apologise." 

Burnaby  put  out  his  hand.  The  man  said,  "  I'm  not 
a  gentleman,  sir,  I'm  a  sweep." 

"  I  don't  care  a  damf  what  you  are  by  trade,"  said 
Burnaby,  "  the  trade  doesn't  make  the  gentleman." 

*  Lord  Wolseley. 

tA  dam  is  an  Eastern  coin.     The  Duke  of  Wellington  introduced  the 
word  from  India. 


234  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

"  But  I  only  sweep  chimneys,"  said  the  man. 

"  Do  you  sweep  them  well  ?  "  asked  Burnaby. 

"  I  hope  so." 

"Then  you  do  your  duty  and  no  man  can  do  more, 
and  the  man  that  does  his  duty  is  a  gentleman." 

Burnaby  never  set  up  for  wisdom,  but  his  spirit  and 
manly  feeling  inspired  him  with  apposite  answer  and 
trenchant  retort.  At  his  intense  moments — and  they 
were  many — he  invariably  showed  himself  at  his  best. 

"When  he  first  entered  Birmingham,"  says  a  corres- 
pondent, "  a  Tory  in  the  town  was  a  thing  unspeakable, 
leprous,  accursed.  The  rancour  of  the  Radicals  and 
the  impotence  of  the  Conservatives  at  the  time 
was  beyond  belief  ;  but  the  charm  of  his  personality 
acted  so  powerfully  on  even  the  most  envenomed  of 
his  adversaries,  that  in  time  he  would  assuredly  have 
been  returned."  His  long  talks  of  the  hellish  sights 
which  he  had  seen  in  the  Soudan,  how  the  dead  bodies 
lay  putrifying,  of  the  fiendish  cruelties  of  the  Mahdi's 
officers — were  unique  in  connection  with  an  election  ; 
and  he  wrought  up  his  audiences  to  fever  pitch.  Men 
had  never  before  heard  anything  like  it,  and  they  were 
profoundly  impressed. 

"  What  a  pity,"  said  the  Radical  lambs,  "  that  he's 
a  d d  Tory."" 

Again  and  again  the  public  called  for  him  ;  and  on 
7th  May  (1884)  he  addressed  a  huge  meeting  of  Conserva- 
tives in  the  Temperance  Hall  at  Leicester,  where  he 
attacked  the  Government  with  more  incisiveness  and 
passion  than  ever.  He  declared  that  their  policy  during 
the  preceding  four  years  reminded  him  of  Rabelais' 
coat,  his  famous  coat — nothing  before,  nothing  behind, 
and  sleeves  of  the  same  pattern.  He  prophesied  a  speedy 
return  to  power  of  the  Tory  party,  and  declared  that 
its  policy  should  be  peace — peace  with  honour,  not  a 
peace  which  humilitates  our  nation.  He  considered 
a  dishonourable  peace  worse  than  war,  seeing  that  it  in- 
creases bloodshed  in  the  future.     "  I  have  nothing,"  he 


THE    BIRMINGHAM    RIOTS  235 

said,  "  but  scorn  for  those  sheep-like  adherents  of  Mr. 
Gladstone,  who  '  baa  '  with  him  in  whatever  key  he 
chooses  to  pitch  his  voice."  He  held  the  source  of  Lord 
Beaconsfield's  power  to  have  been  his  habit  of  keeping 
himself  in  touch  with  the  people.  He  defended  the  House 
of  Lords.  "  The  House  of  Lords,"  he  said,  "  has  great 
responsibilities  ;  so  long  as  it  does  not  shirk  them  it  will 
live  an  ornament  to  our  legislature  ;  when  it  is  afraid 
to  act  independently,  from  that  date  its  days  are  num- 
bered." He  quoted  Lord  Randolph  Churchill,  and  de- 
clared that  England  was  living  under  a  "  one  man 
tyranny."  "  Can  anyone  suppose,"  he  asked,  "  that  the 
'  one-man  tyranny  '  in  the  person  of  Mr.  Gladstone  repre- 
sents the  people  ?  If  it  were  put  to  the  vote  to-morrow 
throughout  Great  Britain — '  Is  Gordon  to  die  or  Mr. 
Gladstone's  administration  to  live  ?  '  -have  you  any 
doubt  as  to  what  would  be  the  result  of  the  poll  ?  There 
is  an  idea  prevalent  among  some  classes  that  England 
has  arrived  at  the  summit  of  her  grandeur,  that  she  is 
on  the  decline,  that  we  ought  to  give  up  our  foreign 
possessions,  and,  retiring  within  the  limits  of  our  little 
island,  content  ourselves  with  our  insular  situation. 
Those  who  talk  like  this  are  unworthy  of  the  name  they 
bear."  Then  he  dealt  with  the  advance  of  the  Russians 
towards  India,  and  declared  that  the  Czar  would  do  as  he 
liked  as  long  as  he  knew  Mr.  Gladstone  was  in  office. 
"  No  nation,"  he  said,  "  has  had  such  a  wretched  history 
as  ours  during  the  last  four  years.  Treachery,  deceit, 
false  promises,  betrayals,  misleading  statements,  sur- 
renders, such  base  and  contemptible  conduct  never 
stained  any  former  administration." 

Returning  to  Gordon,  he  said  "  Like  Caiaphas,  the 
Government  urges  the  doctrine  of  expediency.  It  will 
cost  blood  and  money  to  rescue  Gordon  ;  it  is  expedient 
that  one  man  should  die.  Ask  yourselves  this  question  : 
1  Is  Mr.  Gladstone's  Government  to  live  or  Gordon  to 
die  ?  '  Then  unite,  and  with  one  cry  to  Heaven,  let 
the  voice  of  Great  Britain  be  heard,  and  hurl  from  office 


236  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

the  most  contemptible  and  cowardly  Government  Eng- 
land has  ever  seen." 

So  terminated  one  of  the  most  trenchant  political 
utterances  that  Burnaby  ever  made,  and  practically  it 
was  his  last.  These  speeches,  streaming  with  molten 
fury  from  the  lips  of  a  hero  and  king  among  men  tho- 
roughly roused  a  lethargic  nation,  but  those  whose  ears 
tingled  as  they  listened  to  them,  and  those  in  whose  veins 
the  hot  blood  raced,  as  they  read  the  reports  of  them  in 
the  newspapers,  little  knew  the  strain  all  these  labours 
of  war  and  peace  had  been  upon  the  dashing  soldier 
and  fervid  speaker.  But  if  he  suffered  tortures  from 
both  heart  and  lung,  still  he  was  supremely  happy,  for 
he  felt  that  if  he  had  fought  well,  he  had  likewise  spoken 
well. 

Then  uprose  the  outcry  that  at  El  Teb  he  had  used  a 
shot  gun  instead  of  a  regulation  rifle  ;  and  in  every  later 
caricature  of  him,  there  figures  this  same  shot  gun. 
"  Surely,"  observed  Mr.  Melton  Prior,  "  to  make  all  that 
fuss  was  the  height  of  absurdity.  The  object  in  war 
(as  any  sensible  man  understands  it)  is  to  kill  or  disarm 
your  enemy,  and  it  appears  to  me  that  it  cannot  matter 
whether  you  use  a  powder  mine,  a  torpedo,  a  hundred  ton 
gun,  or  a  double-barrelled  shot  gun,  so  long  as  you  attain 
the  object  in  view — particularly  when  face  to  face  with  a 
savage,  Avhere  it  is  a  case  of  kill  or  be  killed." 

When  Burnaby  next  visited  Birmingham  his  presence 
was  the  signal  for  unprecedented  rioting.  He  arrived 
65— TheBanquet  in  the  town  on  October  14th,  being  accom- 

in  the  Exchange  ied  b  Lord  Carnarvon,  Sir  Stafford 
Assembly  Room.  l  J 

Mr.  Rowlands,  and     Lady     Northcote,     Lord    Randolph 

14th  Oct.,  1884.  Churchill,  Sir  Edward  Clarke,  and  others, 
and  was  present  at  the  banquet  given  on  that  day  in  the 
Exchange  Assembly  Room.*  The  guests  were  still 
seated  when  news  reached  Mr.  Rowlands  that  the  Liber- 
als, who  had  issued  the  circular,  "  Churchill  leaves  the 
Exchange  Rooms  at  10.30;  meet  him  and  greet  him," 

*  Close  to  New  Street  Station. 


tlMt^   >^~-- 


M     f  s~ .'/. //*/— 


C  Cll*--     r  " 


OPENING    THE    CAMPAIGN. 

Lord  Randolph  Churchill  and  Colonel  Burnaby  preparing  for  the  General 

Election. 

Nurse  Birmingham  (loq.)  :  "  Oh  dear  !  but  what  will  Mr.  Schnadhorst  say  ? '' 

The  Dart,  nth  April,  1884. 

Cartoon  by  E.  C-  Mount/ort. 


THE    BIRMINGHAM    RIOTS  239 

intended  mobbing  the  party  on  their  way  out  ;  but  when 
he  communicated  it  to  Burnaby,  the  latter  only  said, 
with  his  Mephistophelian  smile,  "  Then  we  shall  have 
some  fun."  As  he  spoke  there  arose  from  without 
a  tremendous  and  ear-racking  howl — the  united  effort 
of  thousands  of  throats — to  be  succeeded  by  other  howls 
— and  as  wave  after  wave  of  sound  surged  into  the  room, 
the  ladies  present  turned  pale. 

'  I  can  take  you  and  Lord  Randolph  to  your  hotel  by 
a  private  passage,"  said  Mr.  Rowlands. 

"  No,  I  am  going  this  way,"  said  Burnaby,  cheerily, 
and  pointing  to  the  main  entrance  ;  with  which,  overcoat 
flying  and  evening  dress  showing,  he  walked  straight 
into  the  seething  mob. 

He  was  at  once  surrounded,  and  he  could  be  seen 
first  in  Corporation  Street  and  later  in  Bull  Street,  head 
and  shoulders  above  the  human  sea,  jostled  now  this  way, 
now  that,  but  always  advancing  in  the  direction  he  wished 
to  go.  Lord  Randolph  and  Mr.  Rowlands,  who  took  the 
private  cut,  arrived  at  the  Grand  Hotel  unmolested  ; 
and  shortly  afterwards  the  Colonel  appeared  in  the  dis- 
tance, escorted  b)^  his  mob,  who,  wonderful  to  say — 
instead  of  howling  and  hissing  (though  certainly  someone 
flung  an  onion  which  missed  its  mark)  were  cheering  him 
to  the  skies,  and  nothing  would  satisfy  them  but  a  rousing 
speech,  which  he  readily  gave  them  from  the  front  of  the 
Hotel. 

Next  day  a  mass  meeting  was  held  in  Aston  Lower 
Grounds,  and  it  was  also  arranged  to  hold  an  overflow 
meeting    in    the    much    smaller   Assembly  65— The  Aston 
Room  hard  by.*     The  speakers  included  park  Riots.  Mr. 
Burnaby  and  Lord  Randolph  (the  big  dare-     the  Platform, 
devil  and  the  little  dare-devil,  as  Birming-   15th  0ct-' 1884- 
ham  now  thought  proper  to   call  them),   Sir  Stafford 
Northcote,  Sir  Edward  Clarke,  and  Mr.  Darling,  Q.C.,f 
famous   for   his   biting   epigrams   directed   against   Mr. 

•At  the  Holte  Hotel. 
fNow  Mr.  Justice  Darling. 


240  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

Chamberlain,  and  it  was  arranged  that  each  having 
delivered  his  address  in  the  larger  room,  shonld  pass  to 
the  smaller  and  speak  there.  Among  those  in  the 
Assembly  Room  was  a  large  party  of  the  Sparkbrook 
Club,  Mr.  Robert  J.  Buckley  being  among  them.  He  and 
his  friends  had  not  waited  long  before  news  arrived  that 
there  was  a  frightful  tumult  in  the  larger  room,  that 
walls  were  being  scaled,  panels  of  doors  kicked  in,  and 
missiles  hurled  by  a  truculent  and  infuriated  crowd. 
The  Sparkbrook  Club — fighters  all,  and  lovers  of  fight — 
at  once  rushed  out,  and  having  hastily  formed  themselves 
into  a  solid  column,  they  made  a  dash  towards  the  great 
hall,  with  the  intention  of  assisting  their  friends.  The 
enemy  withstood  them,  and  friend  and  foe  became 
inextricably  mingled.  What  exactly  happened  in  the 
sweltering  hurly-burly  is  not  clear,  but  somehow  Mr. 
Buckley  found  himself  inside  the  Great  Hall  and  on  the 
platform  just  as  the  audience  were  rushing  it.  For  a 
moment  its  occupants,  who  included  besides  Colonel 
Burnaby,  Sir  Stafford  and  Lady  Northcote,  were  in  doubt 
what  to  do  ;  but  at  that  juncture  Mr.  Buckley  snatched 
at  a  cane-bottomed  chair,  and  having  seized  it  by  one  leg 
he  charged  like  a  maniac  at  the  storming  party  just  as  it 
was  scaling  the  position  close  to  where  Lady  Northcote 
was  sitting,  and  hurled  it  back  in  confusion.  Then  as 
the  chair  broke,  becoming  a  flail,  and  consequently  diffi- 
cult to  manage,  he  snatched  at  Burnaby's  walking  stick 
and  resumed  his  attack  on  the  skulls  and  hands  of  the 
assaulting  party.  But  next  moment  he  was  down,  the 
platform  was  stormed,  and  with  oaths,  loud  and  strident 
cries,  and  play  of  fists,  the  human  torrent  swept  over 
him.  In  the  meantime  the  speakers  and  the  stewards 
had  quitted  the  platform — followed  by  a  shower  of  mis- 
siles— Burnaby,  whose  sense  of  the  ridiculous  and  deep- 
set  appreciation  of  the  incongruous  had  been  touched  by 
Buckley's  escapade,  nearly  choking  with  laughter. 

Mr.  Stone  then  courageously  thrust  his  way  as  near  as 
possible  to  the  edge  of  the   platform,   with  a  view  to 


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THE    BIRMINGHAM    RIOTS  243 

announcing  that  the  meeting  was  dissolved,  but  the  up- 
roar was  so  deafening  that  even  those  near  him  could 
not  hear  a  syllable  ;  nor  was  Mr.  Rowlands  more  suc- 
cessful, and  finally,  finding  gesticulations  hopeless,  both 
gentlemen  joined  the  retreating  party — with  whole  skins, 
but  pathetically  damaged  silk  hats.  Rising  from  the 
floor,  and  fortunately  unhurt,  Mr.  Buckley  ploughed  his 
way  through  the  seething  crowd  until  he  reached  the 
Assembly  Room,  at  the  door  of  which  stood  Sir  Stafford 
Northcote,  Lady  Northcote,  Lord  Randolph,  and  Sir 
Edward  Clarke  ;  and  there  the  Goliath  Burnaby  ex- 
plained to  the  slim,  boyish  figure  of  Lord  Randolph, 
how  his  chair  and  his  stick  had  been  used — his  deep  guf- 
faw mingling  with  Lord  Randolph's  jay-like  laugh. 

"  You  shall  have  that  stick,"  said  Burnaby,  addressing 
Mr.  Buckley  in  a  comic  voice,  "  and  a  silver  plate  with 
the  inscription  '  For  valour.'  " 

On  October  18th,  Burnaby  was  expected  to  meet  and 
address  his  sturdy  Sparkbrook  friends  ;  but,  being  pre- 
vented from  fulfilling  his  engagement,  he  wrote  to  Mr. 
Buckley  as  follows  : 

14th  October  (1884). 
Dear  Buckley, 

Will  you  tell  my  good  friends  of  the  Sparkbrook  Club 
that  I  deeply  regret  my  inability  to  preside  over  the 
smoking  concert  next  Saturday  ?  It  is  with  real  regret 
that  I  am  compelled  to  come  to  this  decision,  but  the 
simple  fact  is  that  I  can't  manage  it  anyhow,  except  at 
serious  disadvantage.  Do  your  best  to  impress  the  men 
with  a  due  sense  of  my  disappointment,  and  promise 
on  my  behalf  that  on  the  very  first  opportunity  I  will 
spend  an  evening  at  the  club,  even  if  I  have  to  travel  from 
London  on  purpose.  I  wish  you  had  come  to  my  room 
after  the  row.  I  quite  expected  you.  When  I  think  of 
your  sudden  appearance  at  the  back,  and  your  still  more 
sudden  bound  to  the  front,  I  nearly  die  with  laughing  : 
the  chair  in  ribbons,  and  next  your  snapping  up  my  inno- 
cent stick  and  belabouring  the  scaling  party ;  the  whole 


244  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

scene  strikes  me  as  one  of  the  most  comic  I  ever  beheld, 
or  ever  shall.  Not  that  I  am  unconscious  of  the  sober 
merit  of  the  dash,  in  point  of  pluck  and  courage.  Per- 
haps I  laugh  because  the  thing  was  so  contrary  to  my 
impression  of  you,  sitting  at  the  piano  while  folks 
warbled  sentimental  songs.  I  think  the  country  will  now 
estimate  at  its  true  worth  the  Brummagem  brag  of  Free 
Speech  and  the  rest.  All  humbug,  and  blackguardly 
humbug  at  that.  How  tragic  to  see  an  estimable  Eng- 
lish gentleman  like  Sir  Stafford  speaking  mildly  and 
courteously  to  a  crowd  of  howling  ruffians.  It  makes 
me  sick  to  think  of  it.  Then  there  was  Lady  Northcote, 
and  that  sterling  Englishman  Stone,  whose  character 
is  an  honour  to  his  town.  And  the  men  who  treated  them 
so  brutally  are  the  myrmidons  of  Chamberlain  ;  these 
roaring,  screaming,  slaves  of  a  caucus  imported  from  the 
States. 

Never  mind.  The  thing  must  do  us  good.  The  true 
nature  of  Birmingham  Liberalism,  its  tyranny  and  in- 
tolerance, are  made  manifest.  Mind,  I  don't  for  one 
moment  attribute  the  riot  to  the  instigation  of  Chamber- 
lain. I  simply  don't  believe  it— his  underlings  no  doubt 
but  acting  without  Chamberlain's  knowledge.  He  would 
not  have  approved  I  am  sure.  For  I  have  met  him  in 
private,  and  I  think  him  quite  straight,  besides  being  a 
capital  entertainer.  In  short,  Joey  is  as  agreeable  as  a 
man  as  he  is  damnable  as  a  politician,  in  his  beliefs  I  mean. 

Be  sure  to  impress  the  club  with  my  disappointment. 
I  mean  it  :  but  what  is  deferred  is  not  lost. 

Yours  faithfully, 

Fred  Burnaby. 


A  few  days  afterwards  there  was  a  meeting  in  one  of  the 
outlying  districts  of  Birmingham,  convened  for  the  pur- 
pose   of    forwarding    the    Town    Council 
66— The  Yellow  election  of  Mr.  R.  C.  Jarvis  ;  and  Burnaby 
Ju£#         had  promised  to  be  present.     Just  before 
the    commencement,    Mr.    Buckley    came 


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THE    BIRMINGHAM    RIOTS  247 

across  Burnaby  in  a  small  public  house,  which  was  used 
in  some  semi-official  way  by  Mr.  Jarvis's  committee. 
Standing  on  the  moist  red  brick  floor  of  the  little  place, 
his  head  almost  brushing  the  ceiling,  Burnaby  declared 
that  he  was  as  dry  as  a  lime-kiln.* 

Champagne  was  proffered,  but  he  waved  it  away. 
"  No,  no,"  he  said,  "  Give  me  beer,  good  honest  beer, 
and  plenty  of  it.     Bring  me  a  quart  at  least." 

Soon  came  a  big,  common,  yellow  jug  ;  and  Burnaby, 
taking  it  by  spout  and  handle,  tilted  it  over  his  mouth, 
drank  the  whole,  and  as  it  seemed,  at  one  draught,  and 
returned  the  jug  with  a  deep  sigh  of  content.  '  It's  an 
awful  thing,"  he  said  with  emotion,  "  to  be  ten  feet  long, 
and  dry  all  the  way  down." 

He  then  handed  to  Mr.  Buckley  the  promised  stick. 
"Keepsake,"  he  said.  "You  know.  Perhaps  I  shall 
never  return  to  Birmingham." 

"  I  understood  you  were  to  remain  in  England,"  said 
Mr.  Buckley. 

"  Don't  you  be  surprised  if  I  turn  up  in  Egypt,"  said 
Burnaby,  "  but — not  a  syllable  !  " 

At  the  meeting  a  curious  coincidence  occurred.  An 
old  lady  named  Davis  asked  Mr.  Jarvis  to  inform  Bur- 
naby that  she  wished  to  present  him  with  a  walking 
stick. 

"  I  look  on  this  new  stick,"  said  Burnaby  to  Mr. 
Buckley,  "  as  a  token  of  the  direct  approval  of  Providence 
towards  my  giving  you  mine." 

Upon  which  Mr.  Jarvis  said,  "  Then  the  inference 
follows  that  Providence  must  have  been  pleased  with  the 
use  to  which  Mr.  Buckley  put  the  first  stick. "f 

'  In  any  case  there  was  no  danger  of  knocking  ouc  their 
brains,"  said  Burnaby. 

After  the  meeting  Burnaby  and  Mr.  Buckley  returned 

*  During  his  last  twelve  months,  Burnaby,  owing  to  his  complaint, 
suffered  severely  from  thirst. 

f  Mr.  Jarvis  who  got  into  the  Town  Council  and  became  an  Alderman, 
died  in  1907. 


248  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

to  the  little  tavern,  and  Burnaby,  standing  up  as  before, 
took  another  gargantuan  drink  out  of  the  yellow  jug. 

"  Is  it  good  ?  "  asked  the  old  taverner,  anxiously. 

"  Nectar  !  "  said  Burnaby,  smacking  his  lips. 

"  I  beg  your  pardon,  sir,"  said  the  old  man,  doubt- 
fully. 

"  Drink  for  the  very  gods  !  "  said  Burnaby. 

"  By ,  you  shall  have  another  jug  !  "  cried  the  de- 
lighted old  man. 

Then  came  Burnaby's  cab,  and  he  shook  hands  all 
round.  "  He  sprang  in,"  says  Mr.  Buckley.  "  I  went 
to  him  ;  he  put  out  his  hand.  Quite  distinctly  I  remember 
its  softness  and  grip,  while  he  repeated  in  a  whisper, 
words  similar  to  those  he  had  used  an  hour  or  two  be- 
fore. "  Don't  be  surprised  if  I  turn  up  in  Egvpt  after 
all." 

The  cab  rattled  away. 

Burnaby  had  given  Birmingham  of  his  best,  and  Bir- 
mingham, as  the  Rabelaisian  scene  in  the  little  tavern 
bears  witness,  had  not  been  ungrateful  ;  and  so  he  van- 
ished from  her  precincts  for  ever. 

He  passed  the  summer  of  1884  partly  at  Somerby 

and  partly  at  36,  Beaufort  Gardens,  but  he  was  ever 

of  a  roving  disposition,  and  it  was  not  often 

67—  Brompton    he  had  a  meal  at  home.     His  household 
and  Somerby  .        ,         ,         „  ,.  ,    C1 

Nov.  1884.     consisted  only  ot  a  policeman  named  My 

and  his  wife,  who  now  and  then  called  in 
occasional  help.  His  health  still  gave  anxiety  to  his 
friends.  No  longer  able  to  practise  Spartan  habits, 
he  used  to  lie  late  and,  as  his  sight  also  gave  him  un- 
easiness, if  he  read  from  the  papers  it  was  always  with 
blue  glasses.  When  he  wished  to  go  out  Mrs.  Sly  would 
stand  on  a  chair  and  help  him  into  his  thick  and  heavily 
lined  and  furred  great  coat.  On  his  return  he  would 
drop — "  shaking  the  house  as  he  did  so  " — into  a  low- 
built  easy  chair,  the  springs  of  which  had  been  so  flat- 
tened with  his  weight,  that  the  under  bands  were  but  a 
few  inches  from  the  ground  ;  and  the  afternoon  would  be 


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THE    BIRMINGHAM    RIOTS  251 

spent  in  writing,  dictating  to  his  secretary,  Mr.  Percival 
Hughes,  or  calling  on  or  being  visited  by  his  friends, 
Mr.  Labouchere,  Lord  Winchelsea,  Sir  Eyre  Massey 
Shaw,  Sir  Robert  Peel,  and  Mr.  Toole,  the  actor  (Toole 
used  to  say  that  the  merriest  hour  he  could  remember 
was  one  spent  in  a  hansom  with  Burnaby)  ;  while  he  also 
renewed  acquaintance  with  Don  Carlos,  Duke  of  Madrid, 
who  was  visiting  London.  His  principal  lady  friends  in 
London  society — Les  trois  grandes  dames,  as  he  called 
them,  were  Lady  Molesworth,  Lady  Waldegrave,  and 
the  Marchioness  of  Ely,  with  the  last  of  whom  he  kept 
up  a  regular  correspondence.  When  he  begged  Lady  Ely 
to  intercede  with  the  Queen  for  the  re-instation  of  Colonel 
Baker  in  the  British  Army,  her  ladyship  was  able  to 
reply  that  the  difficulty  lay  not  with  her  Majesty, 
who  was  willing,  but  with  Colonel  Baker,  who  had  re- 
fused. 

When  Burnaby  wished  to  write  he  first  made  himself 
comfortable  in  his  low,  easy  chair,  by  drawing  up  his  long 
legs  till  his  knees  touched  his  chin  ;  and  his  pen,  running 
its  course  over  paper  supported  by  a  huge  blotting  book, 
did  the  rest.  At  his  side  always  stood  an  inhaler,  which  he 
used  almost  hourly  to  ease  his  breathing.  Owing  to  his 
inability  to  take  sufficient  exercise  he  rapidly  increased 
in  weight ;  the  sluggishness  of  his  circulation  made  him 
feel  the  cold  ;  still  he  had  a  distinct  mercy,  his  arm  being 
once  more  out  of  its  sling.  The  cataracts  of  warm  tea 
which  he  daily  poured  down  his  throat  in  order  to  quench 
his  raging  thirst,  had  the  effect  of  making  him  drowsy. 
"  He  gave  me  orders,"  says  Mrs.  Sly,  "  in  case  of  his 
sleeping  too  long,  to  go  and  wake  him  ;  but  it  was  no 
use  knocking  at  the  door,  for  he  would  be  in  a  dead  sleep, 
and  I  had  to  go  in  and  shake  him." 

Among  those  who  were  captivated  by  the  charm  of 
Burnaby's  manner,  the  brightness  of  his  talk,  the  blend- 
ing in  him  "  of  strength  and  sweetness,  of  chivalrous 
daring  and  romantic  gentleness,"  the  bias  of  his  character 
and  the  grandeur  of  his  soul,  was  Mr.  Justin  McCarthy. 


252     LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

Towards  the  end  of  1884  they  sat  together  at  a  dinner 
given  in  the  Mansion  House,  and  both  were  called  upon 
for  speeches.  McCarthy  was  dissatisfied  with  his  own 
speech,  owing  to  his  impression  he  had  not  been  heard  by 
half  the  audience,  while  he  had  no  doubt  that  Burnaby's 
magnificent  voice  had  penetrated  to  the  utmost  corners. 
When,  however,  he  came  to  compare  notes  with  Bur- 
naby,  he  found  that  the  latter  was  just  as  dissatisfied. 

"  I  certainly  was  not  heard,"  said  Burnaby.  "  The 
acoustics — or  say  those  pillars  (and  he  pointed  to  them) 
must  take  the  blame,"  and  he  was  so  serious  that  a 
listener  might  have  taken  him  for  an  aspiring  orator 
whose  career  Fate  had  blighted  at  its  very  birth. 

As  we  have  already  several  times  intimated,  Burnaby 
never  had  a  superior  in  personal  courage.  He  was,  as 
many  of  his  friends  have  testified,  absolute- 
68—  The  Blues  ]y  devoid  of  fear.  We  have  also  had  occa- 
him.  sion  to  remark  on  his  indifference  to  his 
personal  appearance.  "  He  was  the  most 
slovenly  rascal  who  ever  lived,"  says  his  devoted  friend, 
Mr.  Gibson  Bowles.  "  When  in  uniform  he  looked  like 
a  sack  of  corn  on  a  horse.  To  mention  only  one  fact, 
instead  of  ordering  his  boots  from  a  fashionable  army 
bootmaker,  like  the  other  officers,  at  three  guineas  a  pair, 
he  got  them  made  in  the  regiment  at  fourteen  shill- 
ings." 

Nevertheless  on  occasion  he  could  give  himself  spruce- 
ness,  and  at  public  functions  when,  as  Colonel  of  the  Blues, 
he  carried  the  silver  stick  in  front  of  the  Queen,  his  great 
stature  and  fine  bearing,  set  off  by  a  magnificent  uniform, 
both  comported  with  and  strikingly  augmented  the  pomp 
of  the  occasion.  Mr.  Buckley  says  of  him,  "  His  mien 
and  general  port  were  magnificent,  he  was  well  propor- 
tioned even  for  his  great  height,  and  straight  as  a  reed. 
Even  his  remarkable  complexion,  so  un-English,  ascribed 
by  him  to  Edward  I.,  from  whom  he  claimed  descent, 
and  whose  looks  and  stature  he  had — this  too  fixed 
attention  on  him." 


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THE    BIRMINGHAM    RIOTS  255 

Still  the  fact  remains  that  as  a  rule  Burnaby's  appear- 
ance lacked  smartness. 

'  Evelyn,"  says  Mr.  Bowles,  "  was  more  like  a  soldier 
than  Fred."  Yet  Fred  was  a  real  soldier  every  inch  of 
him,  nay  a  great  soldier  ;  and  it  was  his  ambition  to  make 
the  Blues  real  soldiers  too — an  efficient  fighting  force. 
He  introduced  among  them  new  studies,  such  as  survey- 
ing. He  tried  to  interest  his  fellow  officers  in  balloon- 
ing and  other  pursuits  which  he  was  convinced  would 
be  of  value  in  any  new  war  ;  but  their  hearts — 
though  there  were  honourable  exceptions — were  en- 
tirely with  dress,  playing  cards,  betting  and  horse- 
racing.  They  thought  of  nothing  else.  When  he  remon- 
strated with  them,  they  replied  sullenly:  "We  don't 
come  here  to  soldier."  They  insisted,  in  short,  that  the 
whole  duty  of  man  is  to  wax  his  moustache,  powder 
his  chin,  lay  odds  and  clear  fences.  The  want  of  sym- 
pathy between  him  and  most  of  his  colleagues  was  so 
pronounced  that  once  when  Mr.  Bowles  dined  at  Knights- 
bridge  Barracks,  not  one  of  the  officers  would  speak  to 
Burnaby,  except  on  matters  of  business. 

But  how  different  now  !  The  old  race  has  given  place 
to  entirely  new  blood.  The  present  Blues  are  not  a  whit 
less  smart  looking  than  their  predecessors,  but  they 
recognise  that  Burnaby  was  right,  and  that  it  is  a  soldier's 
business,  as  it  should  be  his  pleasure,  to  make  himself 
first  of  all  a  soldier,  and  not  only  so,  but  a  capable,  and 
even  a  splendid  soldier.  Mention  but  Burnaby's  name 
among  them,  and  the  heart  beats,  the  eye  flashes.  "  I 
dined  last  year  with  the  Blues,"  remarked  Mr.  Bowles 
to  the  writer,  "  and  the  name  of  Burnaby  was  never 
off  their  tongues." 

Burnaby  enjoyed  his  life  at  the  Carlton,  but  though 
inundated  with  invitations,  he  showed  no  partiality  for 
London  Society.  One  hot  July  afternoon  when  he  and 
Evelyn  were  walking  down  Piccadilly,  they  passed  a  big 
house  with  an  awning — an  indication  that  some  fashion- 
able   function    was    in    progress.     Powdered    footmen 


256  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 


were  running  hither  and  thither,  and  there  were  cries  for 
the  Duchess  of  So  and  So's  and  Lady  So  and  So's  carriage. 
Fred  coolly  remarked,  "  I  believe  I  was  invited  to  that 
entertainment,  but  fancy  spending  a  grand  day  like  this 
listening  to  the  twaddle  of  every  day  talk  !  " 

Though  Fred  Burnaby  was  so  much  taller  than  Evelyn 
the  latter  was  often  taken  for  his  brother.  Even  Lord 
Randolph  Churchill,  who  knew  both  so  well,  once  fell  into 
the  error.  It  was  during  his  visit  to  the  States.  He 
expressed  his  conviction  at  the  Opera  that  Fred  was  in 
one  of  the  boxes,  and  a  friend  having  differed  from  him, 
he  backed  his  opinion  by  a  bet  of  five  pounds — which  to 
his  sorrow — though  not  on  mercenary  grounds — he  lost 
— the  supposed  Fred  turning  out  to  be  Evelyn. 

Although  become  plethoric  in  body,  Burnaby  con- 
tinued to  be  mentally  as  active  as  ever.  In  a  letter  to 
his     publishers,     Messrs.     Sampson    Low, 

69—  He  plans  a  Marston    &    Co.,    dated    6th    June,    1884, 
Visit  to 
Timbuctoo.  ne  says,  "  I  am  still  suffering  from  my  left 

lung,  which  is  congested ;  and  later  on 
mean  to  make  one  more  big  travel  through  Morocco 
to  Timbuctoo,  when  I  will  write  you  a  book,  such  a 
book — Khiva  nothing  to  it — that  will  make  your  future." 
"  This  journey  to  Timbuctoo,"  observes  Mr.  Marston, 
"  was  not  a  pleasant  joke,  it  was  a  serious  project  of  his, 
and  it  would,  in  all  probability,  have  been  undertaken 
had  his  life  been  spared."  Notwithstanding  his  jovial- 
ity, Burnaby  had  a  keen  eye  to  business,  and  he  was 
a  splendid  hand  at  striking  a  bargain.  "  How  well  do  we 
remember,"  observes  Mr.  Marston,  "  his  splendid  and 
gigantic  figure  as  he  used  to  stroll  into  our  office  when 
he  had  some  grand  literary  project  in  view,  his  hearty 
grip  of  the  hand,  his  twinkling  eye,  and  loud  ringing 
laugh.  There  was  a  sort  of  magnetism  about  him 
which  made  us  all  jolly  in  his  presence.  «He  by  no  means 
underestimated  the  value  of  his  literary  work.  He 
seemed  to  take  more  pride  in  overcoming  a  publisher 
than  in  winning  a  battle.     However  unpromising  his 


Mr.   HARRY    ARTHUR    GUSTAVUS    ST.    VINCENT    BURNABY. 

Colonel  Fred  Burnaby's  only  son. 


THE    BIRMINGHAM    RIOTS  259 

project  might,  at  first  sight,  appear,  he  managed  to  cast 
over  it  such  a  rose-coloured  glamour  that  he  soon  made 
it  assume  a  more  attractive  aspect,  and  in  this  way  he 
carried  his  point.  It  must  be  admitted  that  in  the  result 
he  was  generally  not  very  far  wrong,  for  he  made  his  in- 
fluence to  be  felt  for  the  good  of  his  new  book  wherever  he 
went.  On  one  occasion  when  a  slight  inelegancy  of 
style  was  pointed  out  to  him,  he  wrote  "  You  are  prob- 
ably right.  .  .  I  write  as  I  talk,  and  do  not  pretend 
to  have  any  style.  I  have  let  two  or  three  people  look 
at  the  proofs.  They  are  not  connected  with  the  Press, 
but  are  average  mortals — I  call  them  my  Foolometers. 
They  like  the  book.  I  think  they  represent  the  majority 
of  the  reading  public.     You  will  make  a  success." 

In  October  and  November  1884,  Burnaby's  portrait 
was  painted  twice,  each  of  the  artists  being  a  lady. 
Both  ladies  noticed  that  he  was  in  poor  health  and  low 
spirits,  though  he  made  vapid  attempts  at  cheerfulness. 
However  his  old  pleasantry  did  not  quite  forsake  him, 
for  when  one  of  the  ladies  asked  him  to  close  his  eyes 
so  that  she  might  take  their  measure  with  her  compasses, 
he  observed,  "  I  never  close  my  eyes,  madam,  in  the  face 
of  danger." 


o2 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

10th  november  1884 17th  january  1885. 

Dal  on  the  Nile. 

By  this  time  the  attacks  made  by  Burnaby  and  others 
upon  the  Government  had  once  more  forced  it  to  action, 

and  an  expedition  was  organized  with  the 

70 —     Yery        object  of  carrying  aid  to  Gordon.     Lord 

Unhappy.    Wolseley,  who  was  appointed  to  lead  it, 

often  spoke  eulogistically  of  Burnaby, 
and  would  gladly  have  had  his  services,  but  the  war 
authorities  were  of  another  mind.  It  has  been  said  that 
cautious  officialdom  dreaded  Burnaby's  headstrong 
bravery  ;  but  surely  the  bitter  attacks  he  had  made 
on  the  Government  were  sufficient  to  account  for  its 
coldness  towards  him.  However,  Government  willing, 
Government  unwilling,  Burnaby  was  resolved  to  get  to 
the  seat  of  war,  and  if  possible  to  be  one  of  the  rescuers 
of  his  pattern  hero,  General  Gordon.  Having  secretly 
made  all  the  necessary  preparations  for  his  project, 
he  applied  for  his  usual  winter's  leave  of  absence,  but 
the  authorities,  who  had  a  premonition  that  somehow  or 
other  he  intended  to  outwit  them,  allowed  him  one  of  only 
three  months.  As  a  feint  he  gave  out  that  he  was  about 
to  make  for  South  Africa,  whereupon  the  deluded  authori- 
ties promptly  wired  to  Cape  Town  forbidding  his  being 
allowed  to  take  part  in  the  operations  in  progress  there. 
His  plans  matured,  he  first  ran  down  to  Somerby,  where  he 
feasted  the  whole  parish.  During  the  dinner  an  old  farmer 
said  to  him,  "  I  suppose  you're  agoing  to  the  Soudan, 
Colonel  ?  " 

(260) 


DAL    ON    THE    NILE  261 

Burnaby  parried  the  question  with  some  apposite  wit- 
ticism. 

"Be  advised,"  said  the  old  man,  "and  don't  go; 
for  if  an  Arab  could  hit  a  haystack  he  couldn't  very 
well  miss  you." 

From  Somerby  Burnaby  proceeded  to  Bedford,  and 
after  calling  on  Miss  Rose  and  other  old  friends,  to  whom 
he  hinted  darkly  that  he  was  unlikely  to  see  them  again  ; 
he  visited  the  Rectory  garden  and  paddock,  where  the 
old  house  and  St.  Peter's  Church  peeped  at  him  through 
their  foliage,  just  as  they  had  done  in  his  boyhood.  He 
was  not  a  sentimentalist  ;  but  he  felt  as  he  gazed  at  this 
haunting  picture  that  he  was  looking  at  it  for  the  last 
time. 

On  arriving  in  London  he  placed  his  papers,  including 
the  manuscript  of  an  unfinished  novel,  to  which  he  had 
given  the  name  of  Our  Radicals,  with  his  secretary,  Mr. 
Percival  Hughes. 

Little  Harry  Burnaby  had  been  staying  with  his 
grandmother.  Lady  Whitshed,  and  while  Burnaby  and 
Mr.  Hughes  were  chatting,  he  was  brought  by  a  footman 
to  say  good-bye  to  his  father.  After  embracing  the  child, 
Burnaby  turned  to  the  footman  and  said,  "  Good-bye, 
Robert,  I  shan't  come  back  !  " 

There  was  a  great  sadness  upon  Burnaby  when  he 
conversed  for  the  last  time  with  his  old  and  devoted 
friend,  Mr.  T.  Gibson  Bowles,  for  bodily  disorders,  regi- 
mental and  other  troubles,  had  blackened  his  outlook 
and  robbed  him  of  all  peace  of  mind.  The  melancholy 
of  the  padge-owl  once  more  sat  heavily  upon  him. 

"  I  am  very  unhappy,"  he  said,  "  and  I  can't  imagine 
why  you  care  about  life.     I  do  not  mean  to  come  back." 

But  at  Victoria  Station,  when  parting  from  Mr. 
Hughes,  he  was  in  quite  a  different  mood.  They  had 
been  speaking  about  the  unfinished  Our  Radicals,  and 
his  last  words  as  he  stepped  into  the  train,  were,  "  I  shall 
publish  that  novel  when  I  return,  but  it  will  want  a  good 
deal  of  writing." 


262  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

Accompanied  by  his  servant  Buchanan,*  he  made  his 
way  first  to  Maloja  in  the  Engadine,  in  order  to  bid  adieu 
to  Mrs.  Burnaby,  and  some  days  later  he  arrived  at 
Alexandria,  where  he  stayed  not  a  moment  longer 
than  necessity  demanded,  for  he  was  in  perpetual  fear 
lest  a  telegram  should  arrive  to  stop  him.  Eventually 
he  overtook  Lord  Wolseley,  who,  on  his  own  responsibil- 
ity, placed  him  first  in  the  Intelligence  Department, 
and  afterwards  on  his  own  staff.  Soldiers  who  met  him 
in  the  company  of  Lord  Arthur  Somerset  and  Sir  John 
Willoughby  marked  his  healthy  look  and  smart  bearing. 
Egypt,  indeed,  had  given  him  new  life  and  vigour. 
Ardent  sun,  desert  air,  the  proximity  of  danger  had 
scattered  all  his  moody  thoughts.  He  was  once  more 
his  old  self,  cheery  as  a  lark,  full  of  quip  and  crank, 
revelling  in  life  and  activity.  He  was  working  for 
England,  and  he  was  riotously  happy. 

On  December  4th  he  wrote  as  follows  to  Mrs.  Burnaby  : 

"  Wady  Haifa, 

4th  December,  1884. 

"  I  have  been  appointed  inspecting  staff  officer  of  the 
line  between  Tanjour  and  Magrakeh  on  the  Nile,  about 
sixty  miles  from  this.  I  have  to  superintend  the  moving 
of  the  Nile  boats  in  that  district ;  and  as  the  water  is 
very  shallow,  most  of  them  wall  have  to  be  carried  on 
land.  It  will  be  very  hard  work,  but  at  the  same  time 
interesting  employment.  I  leave  this  to-morrow  to  take 
up  my  new  duties." 

On  arriving  by  rail  at  Sarras,f  Burnaby  hastened 
to  Captain  Brocklehurst's  Remount  Camp,  and  applied 
to  Warrant  Officer  Joseph  Pritchard  for  camels,  saying 
that  he  was  very  anxious  to  get  to  the  front. 

"  I  can  give  you  a  camel,  sir,"  said  Mr.  Pritchard, 
"  but  I  have  no  riding  saddle." 

"Oh,  a  pack  saddlej  will  do,"  said  Burnaby.  "Any- 
thing at  all." 

*  Storey  had  left  his  service. 

•j"  Then  the  head  of  the  railway  from  Wady  Haifa. 

J  A  pack  saddle  consists  of  two  cross  pieces  of  wood  front  and  back, 
tied  together  with  side  bars  of  wood — a  very  rough  affair. 


DAL    ON    THE    NILE  263 

Mr.  Pritchard  procured  a  pack-saddle,  which  he  made 
as  comfortable  as  possible  with  blankets;  and  without 
waiting  for  food  Burnaby  mounted,  and,  accompanied 
by  Buchanan,  who  had  also  been  provided  with  a  camel, 
rode  off  as  fast  as  possible.  On  reaching  Dal  he  wrote 
to  Mrs.  Burnaby  as  follows  : 

"  Dal, 

11th  December. 

"  I  left  Wady  Haifa  about  five  days  ago,  went  by  train 
(three  hours)  to  Sarras,  and  then  rode  on  camels  here. 
The  camels  were  bad,  and  broke  down  several  times.* 
We  journeyed  through  the  desert  with  not  a  blade  of 
grass  to  be  seen — nothing  but  white  sand,  high  rocks, 
and  black  crags.  Since  I  have  been  here  I  have  been  very 
busy.  The  Nile  here  is  like  a  small  pond  in  many  places, 
and  when  the  wind  is  not  favourable  the  boats  have  to 
be  carried  for  two  and  a  half  miles  across  the  desert  on 
men's  shoulders.  Each  boat  weighs  eleven  hundred- 
weight, and  her  stores  three  and  a  half  tons,  so  this  will 
give  you  an  idea  of  the  labour.  I  passed  eleven  boats 
through  the  cataract  the  first  dav,  seventeen  the  next, 
thirty-four  yesterday,  and  hope  to  do  forty  more  to-day. 
Our  work  is  to  spur  on  all  the  officers  and  men,  and  see 
that  they  work  to  their  uttermost.  This  I  think  they  do, 
and  it  will  be  very  difficult  for  me  to  get  more  out  of 
them.  It  does  not  do  to  overspur  a  willing  horse. 
I  sleep  on  the  ground  in  a  waterproof  bag,  and  have  as 
aide-de-camp  Captain  Gascoigne,  late  of  my  regiment, 
He  has  just  gone  for  an  eight  hours'  ride  down  the  Nile 
to  report  to  me  on  the  boats  coming  up.  A  strong 
north-wind  is  blowing  to-day,  which  helps  us  much  with 
the  boats.  I  do  hope  it  will  continue,  as  some  four 
hundred  and  fifty  more  have  to  pass  through  the  catar- 
acts very  shortly." 

Among  those  who  conversed  with  Burnaby  at  Dal 
was  Mr.  J.   M.   Cook,   of  Ludgate  Circus.     "  If,"   said 

*  See  Lord  Binning's  narrative  (chapter  19). 


264  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

Burnaby  to  him,  "  the  British  Government  had  not 
sent  an  expedition  to  Khartoum,  I  and  my  friend,  Cap- 
tain Gascoigne,  would  have  gone  out  alone  with  the  in- 
tention of  cutting  our  way  through  to  Gordon." 

When  Mr.  Cook  and  Burnaby  parted  on  December  12th 
the  latter  said,  "  Remember,  you  are  under  promise  to 
take  me  back  to  my  duties  at  Windsor  before  May  the 
first."  Then,  turning  to  Mr.  Cook  junior,  he  said, 
"  whether  your  father  can  indulge  himself  or  not,  you  are 
to  spend  part  of  your  summer  holiday  with  me  at 
Somerby." 

His  next  letter  to  Mrs.  Burnaby,  dated  15th  December 
(1884),  runs  as  follows  : 

"  Dal,  on  the  Nile, 

15th  December,  1884. 

"  I  am  up  before  daylight,  getting  boats  and  soldiers 
across  the  cataracts.  There  was  a  deadlock  here  before 
I  arrived,  but  I  have  put  things  straight  again,  and  the 
boats  are  going  on  to  Dongola  without  delay. 

"  There  is  a  strange  mixture  of  people  here — Arab  camel- 
drivers,  black  Dongolese  porters,  still  blacker  Kroomen, 
Red  Indians,  Canadian  boatmen,  Greek  interpreters ; 
men  from  Aden,  Egyptian  soldiery,  Scotch,  Irish,  and 
English  Tommy  Atkins — a  very  Babel  of  tongues  and 
accents.  The  nights  are  cold,  but  on  the  whole  I  feel 
well.  Sir  Redvers  Buller  arrived  this  morning  and  ex- 
pressed himself  very  pleased  with  the  work  done. 
Buchanan,  my  servant,  is  well,  and  very  useful." 

On  December  24th  he  wrote  : 

"  Dal,  on  the  Nile, 

December  24th,  1884. 

"  Great  excitement  is  prevailing  at  the  present  moment, 
as  my  basin,  in  which  a  black  was  washing  my  shirts, 
slipped  out  of  his  hands,  and  is  sailing  gaily  down  the 
Nile.  Buchanan  is  in  despair,  as  it  cannot  be  replaced. 
The  excitement  increases.  A  black  on  board  a  boat  close 
at  hand  has  j  umped  into  the  river.  The  stream  is  danger- 
ous here,  there  being  so  many  rocks  and  eddies.     He  is 


DAL    ON    THE    NILE  265 

pursuing  the  basin  ;  he  has  come  up  to  it,  and  landed  it 
safely. 

"  It  is  extremely  cold  about  two  a.m.  till  the  sun  gets  up, 
and  then  it  is  very  warm  in  the  middle  of  the  day.  I 
came  back  this  morning  after  a  three  days'  excursion 
to  the  Isle  of  Say,  where  I  have  been  arranging  with  the 
Sheiks  for  the  purchase  of  Indian  corn  and  wood  for  fuel. 
I  bought  an  Arab  bedstead  there  for  two  dollars.  For 
food,  I  live  the  same  as  the  soldiers — preserved  beef, 
preserved  vegetables,  and  lime-juice,  with  occasionally  a 
drop  of  rum,  which  is  very  acceptable. 

"A  piece  of  bacon  was  served  out  to  each  man,  and  a 
pound  of  flour  as  well  this  morning,  as  it  is  Christmas  to- 
morrow. Bacon  is  a  great  luxury  here.  I  am  going  to 
dine  with  Lieut-Colonel  Alleyne,  of  the  Royal  Artillery, 
to-morrow.  He  has  a  plum-pudding  he  brought  with 
him  from  England,  and  I  can  assure  you  we  are  all  looking 
forward  to  the  consumption  of  that  pudding  very  much 
like  boys  at  school.  I  must  have  lost  quite  two  stone  the 
last  month,  and  am  all  the  better  for  it.  A  soldier 
stole  some  stores  a  few  days  ago.  He  has  been  tried 
b}<-  court-martial,  and  given  five  years'  penal  servitude. 
In  old  days  he  would  have  escaped  with  a  flogging,  but 
now  that  it  is  abolished  the  man  has  to  suffer  five  years 
instead.  Poor  fellow  !  I  expect  he  does  not  bless 
the  sentimentalists  who  did  away  with  flowering  in  the 
army.  Taking  everything  into  consideration,  the  men 
are  behaving  wonderfully  well.  They  have  very,  very 
hard  work,  and  this  so-called  Nile  pic-nic  is  as  severe 
a  strain  as  well  could  be  put  on  them,  physically  speaking. 
Yet  you  never  hear  a  grumble,  and  they  deserve  the 
greatest  praise.  It  is  a  responsible  post  which  Lord 
Wolseley  has  given  me  here,  with  forty  miles  of  the  most 
difficult  part  of  the  river,  and  I  am  very  grateful  to  him 
for  letting  me  have  it  ;  but  I  must  say  I  shall  be  better 
pleased  if  he  sends  for  me  when  the  troops  advance  upon 
Khartoum.  Of  course,  someone  must  be  left  to  look 
after  the  line  of  communication,  and  each  man  hopes 


266  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

he  may  not  be  the  unfortunate  individual.  Anyhow, 
if  I  am  left  behind  I  shall  not  outwardly  grumble,  al- 
though I  shall  inwardly  swear,  as  Lord  Wolseley  has  been 
so  very  kind." 

Two  days  later  he  wrote  : 

"  Dal, 

26th  December. 

"  Every  morning  I  am  up  at  six,  and  am  out  of  doors 
all  day,  either  on  a  camel  or  on  my  legs,  superintending 
the  transport  of  boats  and  boat  stores  up  the  cataracts. 
I  have  not  seen  a  newspaper  for  the  last  month,  and 
we  all  live  in  blissful  ignorance  of  the  outer  world.  I 
had  my  Christmas  dinner  last  night  with  Colonel  Alleyne. 
Party  :  Lord  Charles  Beresford,  Captain  Gascoigne,  and 
self.  Dinner  :  Preserved  pea  soup,  some  ration  beef, 
and  a  plum-pudding,  sent  out  from  England,  which  was 
done  great  justice  to,  the  dinner  being  washed  down  by 
libations  of  whisky  and  brandy,  mixed  with  Nile  water. 
As  someone  observed,  the  Nile  tastes  strongly  of  whisky 
after  six  p.m.  One,  joking  about  the  expedition  and  its 
difficulties,  remarked  that  there  had  been  no  such  expedi- 
tion since  Hannibal  tried  to  cross  the  Alps  in  a  boat. 
I  expect  to  have  got  the  last  boat  load  of  soldiers  through 
here  by  the  second  of  next  month,  and  then  there  will  be 
very  little  for  me  to  do,  and  I  hope  to  be  sent  on." 

The  next  letter,  a  treasure  indeed,  for  it  is  the  last, 

was  written  in  pencil  at  Dal  in  the  quiet  and  solitude  of 

the  night.     On  the  envelope,   which  was 

71—  His  Last     addressed   to   Mrs.    Fred   Burnaby,    Hotel 

Dec,  1884.  Belvedere,  Davos  Platz,  Switzerland,  was 

written  "  On  active  service.     No  stamps. 

Pay  at  other  end.     F.  Burnaby,  Col."     The  letter  itself, 

which  is  on  yellow  paper,  ruled  with  faint  blue  lines, 

runs  : 

"  Dal,  on  the  Nile, 

Dec.  28th,  1884,  8  p.m. 
"  My  darling  Lizzie, 

"Have  just  received  orders  to  move  on  to  Korti,  a 


DAL    ON    THE    NILE  267 

place  between  Debbah  and  Merani,  where  Colonel 
Stewart  was  killed — about  230  miles  from  this.  I  start 
to-morrow  morning.  Have  received  no  letters  from  you 
or  anyone  since  the  17th  of  last  month.  They  will 
doubtless  all  turn  up  in  time.  Camels  travel  slowly, 
so  I  shall  not  reach  Korti  for  ten  days.  Am  very  well. 
Cold  and  cough  disappeared — thanks  to  the  Arab  bed- 
stead, which  keeps  my  middle-aged  bones  off  the  ground. 
Buchanan  very  well  and  very  useful.  Lord  Charles 
Beresford  left  this  for  Korti,  the  day  before  yesterday. 
I  hope  to  catch  him  up.  Weather  very  cold  at  night 
and  early  morning,  but  warm  though  with  a  cold  wind  in 
the  middle  of  the  day. 

"  P. S.— Excuse  scrawl.  A  man  arrived  with  some  jam 
yesterday.  Three  shillings  a  pot  he  charged.  7|d.  for 
the  same  article  in  the  Brompton  Road.  I  bought 
twelve  pots.  Dreadful  extravagance,  but  jam  is  a  great 
luxury  here. 

Believe  me,  my  darling  wife, 
Your  veiy  affectionate  husband, 

Fred." 

On  January  8th  he  reached  Korti,  where  he  learnt,  to 
his  joy,  that  a  few  days  previous  an  Arab  messenger 
had  brought  in  a  slip  of  paper,  some  two  inches  square, 
containing  the  following  cheery  message,  "  Khartoum 
all  right.  December  14th.  C.  G.  Gordon."  The  mes- 
senger had  added  that  Gordon  looked  well,  while  his 
men,  who  knew  that  Lord  Wolseley  was  advancing  to 
their  aid,  were  in  excellent  spirits.  Next  morning  Sir 
Redvers  Buller,  as  Chief  of  the  staff,  placed  Burnaby  in 
charge  of  a  convoy  of  grain,  which  was  to  be  taken  to 
Gadkul,  and  instructed  him  to  join  General  Stewart's 
column  if  possible.  He  overtook  the  column  at  Gadkul 
very  early  in  the  morning  of  January  13th,  and  while 
handing  over  the  convoy  to  Mr.  Pritchard  (the  official 
from  whom  he  had  obtained  his  camel  at  Sarras),  he  en- 
quired, "  Am  I  in  time  for  the  fighting  ?  " 


268  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

"  Oh  yes,"  was  the  reply,  "  we  shall  not  march  out 
till  four." 

The  advance  commenced  at  the  time  expected,  and 
on  the  evening  of  the  15th  a  halt  was  made  near  a  high 
hill. 


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THE    SQUARE    AT    ABOU     KLEA. 
From  a  sketch  bv  Lieutenant-Colonel  Lord  Binning. 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 

17th  january  1885. 

The  Battle  of  Abou  Klea. 

Next  morning  the  column  started  again  before  day- 
break,  but  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  carrying  forage, 
only  a  few  of  the  officers,   including  Sir 

72_  Jh/  Nilht    Herbert  Stewart,  Lord  Airlie,   and  Frank 
before  the     „.      n  -,■■**■, 

Battle.       Khodes,  were  mounted.    Burnaby  was  on  a 

grey  polo  pony  named  Moses,  which  had 

been  lent  him  by  Lieutenant  Percival  Marling.*     Lord 

Charles  Beresford  rode  a  mule,  his  blue- jackets  were  on 

camels,  but  the  rest  were  on  foot.     Would  they  reach 

Khartoum  in  time  to  save  Gordon  ?     That  was  the  great 

question.     They  halted  some  four  hundred  yards  from 

the  foot  of  the  bleak  and  rugged  ridge  which  forms  part 

of  the  caravan  route  to  Abou  Klea ;  and  then  General 

Stewart  and  his  staff,  including  Colonel  Burnaby,  went 

forward  to  reconnoitre.     On  topping  the  ridge  they  could 

see,   by  aid  of  their  glasses,   the  army  of  the  enemy 

so  disposed  as  to  dispute  the  further  advance  of  the 

column  ;  and,  having  returned  to  his  men,  the  General 

gave  the  order  for  a  zerebaf  to  be  formed,  while  pickets 

were   placed   on   the   hills.     The   soldiers   slept   in   the 

zereba  in  their  great  coats  with  bayonets  fixed  ;  for  during 

the  whole  of  the  night  could  be  heard  the  distant  sound 

of  the  tom-tom,  while  the  bullets  of  the  enemy  hissed 

overhead,  or  dropped  into  the  square,  mortally  wounding 

several  men,   including  Lord  St.   Vincent  of  the   16th 

*  Afterwards  V.C.,  C.B.,  and  Colonel  commanding  18th  (Victoria  Mary 
Princess  of  Wales's  Own)  Hussars. 

t  An  enclosure  the  sides   of  which  are  formed  of    prickly  brushwood, 
biscuit  boxes,  saddles,  &c. 

(271) 


272  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

Lancers.     Twice  during  the  night  the  pickets  were  driven 
in  and  the  men  called  to  arms. 

Burnaby,  who  wore  a  big  pilot  jacket  lined  with 
astrakhan,  had  been  appointed  by  General  Stewart 
73— Chats  with    to  the  command  of  the  left  flank  and  rear 

Mr.  Bennet  Bur- 0f  ^g  square,  and  he  virtually  discharged 
leigh,  Mr.  Melton    ,,.„,.,.  ,       „,     f. 

Prior  and  Lord  the  duties  01  a  brigadier  general,      lo  Mr. 

Binning.  Bennet  Burleigh,  who  was  by  his  side  dur- 
ing the  earlier  part  of  the  night,  he  expressed  his  satisfac- 
tion at  having  arrived  in  time  for  the  approaching 
battle.  "  I  have  got  to  that  stage  of  life,"  he  observed, 
"  when  the  two  things  that  interest  me  most  are  war  and 
politics  ;  and  I  am  equally  exhilarated  and  happy  whe- 
ther holding  up  to  odium  an  unworthy  politician  or  fight- 
ing against  my  country's  foes.  I  shall  take  up  politics 
again  on  my  return,  for,  next  to  war  and  fighting,  there 
is  more  fire  and  go  in  that  than  in  anything  else.  Be- 
sides, wars  are  going  out  of  fashion.  Politics  give  me  a 
course  and  stir  my  blood." 

They  talked  together  by  the  hour,  joking  and  laughing 
— Burnaby  championing  the  Tory  cause,  Burleigh,  the 
Social  Democratic  ;  indeed,  General  Stewart,  more  than 
once,  asked  them  to  be  silent. 

"  Do  you  think,"  said  Captain  Hippesley,*  to  Burnaby, 
"  the  enemy  will  come  on  and  attack  our  entrench- 
ment ? " 

c'  No  such  luck,"  replied  Burnaby.  "  We  shall  have 
to  go  forward  and  attack  them  " — and  then,  his  mind 
running  on  the  intolerable  thirst  from  which  the  column 
had  suffered,  and  the  immense  hordes  of  the  enemy,  he 
added,  "  At  home  it  is  wine  and  women,  but  out  here, 
from  what  I  can  see,  it's  men  and  water,  "f 

A  little  later,  however,  he  felt  convinced  that  the  enemy 
would  make  an  attack,  and  having  quitted  his  compan- 
ions, he  joined  General  Stewart,  with  whom  he  visited 
the  various  corps  in  the  zereba,  as  well  as  the  small  posts 

*  Of  the  Royal  Scots  Greys. 

f  Heard  by  George  Murray,  of  the  Scots  Greys,  who  was  passing. 


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THE    DART    IN     MOURNING. 
23rd  January,   1885. 
Drawn  by  E.  ('.  Mountfort. 


THE    BATTLE    OF    ABOU  KLEA  285 

which  had  been  made  with  the  aid  of  biscuit  boxes. 
Addressing  Corporal  J.  R.  Payne  as  a  senior  non-com- 
missioned officer,*  he  said,  "Are  your  men  awake? 
Is  their  ammunition  ready  ?  "  And  on  receiving  a  satis- 
factory reply,  he  passed  to  another  company,  to  whom 
he  said  "  Don't  fire,  men,  until  you  see  the  whites  of 
their  eyes." 

A  little  later  Mr.  Burleigh  learnt  that  Burnaby  had 
been  appointed  by  General  Wolseley  second  in  com- 
mand— that  is  next  to  General  Stewart — and  that  on 
reaching  Metamneh,  he  was  to  be  named  governor 
of  the  town.  Early  in  the  morning  Burnaby  rode  up  to 
Lord  Cochrane  (now  Lord  Dundonald),  whose  men — 
a  squadron  of  the  heavy  camel  corps,  made  up  of  the  1st 
and  2nd  Life  Guards — occupied  a  slight  hollow,  and  asked 
whether  he  might  put  his  mount  among  them.  While 
Lord  Cochrane  and  Burnaby  were  sitting  together  on 
some  rising  ground,  and  looking  in  the  direction  of  the 
enemy,  a  bullet  whistled  between  them  and  towards  some 
men  who  were  lying  behind,  one  of  whom  was  named 
Murray.f  After  remarking  that  it  was  a  close  shave. 
Lord  Cochrane  asked  the  men  for  the  bullet,  but 
Murray  replied,  "  I  think,  sir,  I  have  the  best  right  to  it, 
as  it  has  gone  through  my  pocket  "  ;  so  he  kept  it. 
Shortly  afterwards  someone  said,  "  They  seem  to  be 
hitting  a  good  many  of  our  men  "  ;  on  which  Colonel 
Burnaby  observed,  "  You  can't  make  omelets  without 
breaking  eggs." 

A  few  minutes  later  while  he  was  chatting  with  another 
officer  and  Mr.  Melton  Prior,  the  bullets  of  the  enemy 
again  came  unpleasantly  near.  "  The  rascals  are  firing 
at  us  from  those  hills  on  the  right,"  said  the  officer  as  a 
bullet  whistled  between  him  and  Burnaby.  "  We'd 
better  separate  a  little." 

*J.  R.  Payne  was  Corporal  in  charge  of  18  men  No.  3  section  C  (or 
Rifle)  company. 

t  Probably  the  Thomas  Murray  mentioned  later  as  writing  to  Burnaby's 
friends. 


286  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

With  a  smile,  Burnaby  observed,  "  We  may  as  well  be 
killed  here  now,  as  elsewhere  later  on." 

About  7  in  the  morning  General  Stewart  ordered  an 
advance,  and  gave  instructions  to  drive  the  enemy 
from  the  wells.  The  column  left  the  zereba  at  7.30,  and 
about  9  the  bugle  sounded  the  halt.  A  square  was  formed 
with  the  Guards  in  front,  the  Mounted  Infantry  on  the 
left,  the  Sussex  Regiment  on  the  right,  and  the  Naval 
Brigade  and  the  Heavy  Cavalry  in  the  rear,  while  in  the 
centre  were  the  camels  carrying  ammunition  and  litters 
for  the  wounded,  and  the  Gardner  guns.  A  movement 
forward  was  then  made,  amid  a  fusillade  from  the  hills, 
but  although  the  enemy  had  excellent  weapons,  namely, 
Remingtons,  taken  from  Hicks  Pasha's  slaughtered 
army,  they  were  bad  marksmen,  most  of  the  bullets 
going  too  high. 

Reports  then  came  in  that  the  enemy's  scouts  were  seen 
coming  round  the  hills  above  the  left  flank  ;  and  the 
19th  Hussars  were  sent  forward  to  drive  them  back. 

"  Where's  your  double-barrelled  shot  gun  ?  "  enquired 
Mr.  Burleigh  of  Burnaby. 

"  Oh,"  was  the  reply.  "  As  the  sentimentalists  and 
their  friends  at  home  made  such  an  outcry  on  account 
of  my  using  it  at  El  Teb,  I  have  handed  it  over  to  my 
servant." 

"  That  was  a  mistake,"  said  Mr.  Burleigh,  "  I  should 

have   seen   them   d -d   first.     These   cruel    devils   of 

dervishes  give  no  quarter.  It  is  not  even  the  sword  of 
Mahomet,  but  defilement  and  butchery  in  the  name 
of  the  Mahdi.     So  it's  their  lives  or  ours." 

"It  is  too  late  now,"  said  Burnaby.  "  I  must  take 
my  chance." 

In  the  meantime,  owing  to  the  fact  that  many  of  the 
camels  had  been  wounded,  the  rear  of  the  square  was  un- 
able to  keep  pace  with  the  front,  consequently  a  gap  was 
left — a  condition  of  affairs  which  the  officers  tried  in  vain 
to  remedy,  and  while  the  British  were  in  this  predicament, 
the  Arab  forces  poured  over  the  mountains  like  swarms  of 


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THE    BATTLE    OF    ABOU    KLEA  289 

bees.     Nearer  and  nearer  they   approached,    and  with 
banners  waving,  tom-toms  beating,  and  the  tremendous 
shout  of  "  Allah  Akhbah,"  they  poured  towards  the  gap 
in  the  square,  sweeping  over  the  undulating  ground  that 
lay  in  their  path  like  a  vast  wave  of  black  surf.     There 
must  have  been  fifteen  thousand  of  them  :   enormous 
Sheikhs  in  patched  jibbehs,  Dervishes,  ferocious  thick- 
necked  Baggara  from  the  Nuba  plains,  tremendous  black 
woolly-haired  warriors,  with  iron  rings  on  wrist  and  neck, 
two  edged  swords  and  shields  of  crocodile  hide,  Emirs  on 
horseback  ;  in  short,  representatives  apparently  of  every 
tribe  and  nation  in  the  Soudan.     The  British  tried  their 
utmost  to  close  the  gap,  the  skirmishers  fell  back,  while 
the  rifles  in  the  square  kept  up  a  continuous  fire,  and  the 
shrapnel    guns*    belched    forth    their    deadly    streams. 
General  Stewart  moved  about  the  left  flank,   Colonel 
Burnaby  was  near  the  gap,  and  Lord  Cochrane  and  Lieut- 
enant-Colonel Lord  Binning,  were  distant  from  him  only 
a  few  yards.     The  rifles  of  the  Guards  and  the  Mounted 
Infantry  mowed  down  the  black  masses  of  the  enemy 
like  corn,  but  those  in  the  rear  leaped  over  the  piles  of 
dead,  many  of  them  reaching  the  square,  so  there  was 
much  hand  to  hand  fighting.     To  add  to  the  terrible  con- 
fusion, in  the  midst  of  the  struggle  part  of  the  British 
ammunition  caught  fire,  so  there  was  at  once  a  crackling 
of  boxes  and  a  continuous  explosion  of  cartridges  behind 
our  soldiers,   and  a  furious  enemy  in  front ;   but  even 
this  was  not  all,  for  the  Gardner  guns  jammed,  and  the 
soldiers'  bayonets,  being  too  long,  became  softened  by 
the    continuous    firing,     and    consequently    lost    their 
effectiveness. 

Colonel   Burnaby,    who   still   rode   the   pony,    Moses, 

had  restrained  his  own  command  as  long  as  possible. 

"  Don't  fire  yet,"  he  shouted,  "  you'll  hit 

74 —Death  of      our  men  |  "  meaning  the  skirmishers,  who 
Burnaby  17th  .        »  ' 

Jan.,  1885.     were   still   pouring   in  ;    and   the   toe   was 

within  150  yards  when  the  first  volley  was 

*  There  were  two  batteries  of  Artillery  in  the  square — one   English  one 
Egyptian. 


290  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

fired  from  those  near  the  gap.  The  left  flank  of  the  square 
then  fell  back  a  few  feet,  and  there  was  some  confusion. 
Colonel  Burnaby,  instead  of  falling  back  with  the  others, 
stood  his  ground,  and  then  seeing  some  skirmishers  being 
struck  down  by  the  Arabs  he  dashed  to  their  rescue, 
doing  deadly  execution  with  his  revolver  and  a  huge 
sword.  As  he  rode  forward  a  Sheikh  charged  him  on 
horseback,  only,  however,  to  fall  by  an  English  bullet. 
But  behind  the  Sheikh  were  spearmen,  and  one  of  them, 
suddenly  dashing  at  Burnaby,  thrust  a  spear  blade  into 
his  throat.  Checking  his  pony,  and  pulling  it  backward, 
Burnaby  leant  forward  in  his  saddle  and  parried  the  rapid 
and  ferocious  thrusts,  but  the  length  of  the  Moslem's 
weapon — eight  feet — put  it  out  of  his  power  to  retaliate 
effectually.  Still  he  fenced  smartly,  and  there  was  a 
smile  on  his  features  as  he  drove  off  the  man's  awkward 
points.  At  this  moment  another  Arab  ran  his  spear 
into  the  Colonel's  right  shoulder,  but  he  had  scarce- 
ly done  so  before  he  was  bayoneted  by  a  young  soldier 
named  Laporte.  In  the  confusion  Burnaby  received 
another  throat  wound  from  the  first  Arab,  causing  him 
to  fall  from  his  saddle,  and  half  a  dozen  Arabs  closed  on 
him.  In  spite  of  the  wounds  he  leapt  to  his  feet,  sword 
in  hand,  and  slashed  at  his  foes,  while  Sir  William  Gordon 
Cumming,  and  young  Corporal  Mackintosh,  of  the  Blues, 
who  was  instantly  cut  down  by  an  Arab,  rushed  courage- 
ously to  his  assistance.  Half  a  dozen  Arabs  were  now 
about  Burnaby  ;  he  struck  at  them  ' '  with  the  wild  strokes 
of  a  proud  brave  man  dying  hard,  but  he  was  quickly 
overborne,"*  and  he  fell  bleeding,  helpless  and  dying 
into  the  arms  of  his  servant  Buchanan,  who  had  just 
reached  the  spot.  Private  Wood,  of  the  Grenadier 
Guards,  ran  out,  raised  his  head,  and  offered  him  some 
water. 

"  No,    my   man,"    said   Burnaby,    pushing   back   the 
bottle.     "  Look  after  yourself." 

*  Mr.  Bennet  Burleigh. 


THE    REV.    EVELYN    BURNABY,    M.A. 
Colonel   Burnaby's  only  brother. 


THE    BATTLE    OF    ABOU    KLEA  293 

"  Oh,  Colonel,  I  fear  I  can  say  no  more  than  God  bless 
you,"  said  Wood. 

In  that  fearful  melee  fell  also  Captain  Darley,*  Lieut- 
enants Wolfef  and  De  Lisle  %  and  Majors  Atherton||  and 
Carmichael,§  all  of  whom  had  found  themselves  like 
Burnaby  outside  the  square — brave  men  every  one. 
These  events  took  place  in  even  less  time  than  it  has 
taken  to  describe  them  ;  and  then  the  whole  thing 
was  blotted  out  by  the  masses  of  the  enemy,  the  scene 
becoming,  to  use  Lord  Dundonald's  words,  a  veritable 
pandemonium — every  man  fighting  for  dear  life.  In  the 
confusion  a  few  of  the  Arabs,  including  a  colossus  on 
horseback,  broke  into  the  square,  but  they  were  in- 
stantly despatched.  General  Stewart,  whose  horse 
was  killed  under  him,  had  a  narrow  escape.  Death  and 
havoc  reigned.  The  strained  tension  of  the  situation 
lasted  some  ten  minutes,  when,  at  last,  the  Arabs,  find- 
ing all  their  efforts  in  vain,  began  to  turn  and  ride  off 
the  field.  With  cheer  upon  cheer  the  English  hailed 
their  victory,  dearly  won  as  it  had  been,  and  volley 
after  volley  was  sent  into  the  flying  foe. 

Terribly  wounded  as  Burnaby  was,  he  still  lived, 
though  life  was  fast  ebbing  away ;  among  the  sounds  that 
last  reached  his  ears  were  the  cries  of  victory.  At  that 
moment  Lord  Binning  ran  up  and  knelt  at  his  side. 
Burnaby  opened  his  eyes,  gently  pressed  his  comrade's 
hand,  and  was  gone. 

And  there  he  lay  on  this  fatal  field — a  huge  Soudanese 
spear0  with  a  blade  sixteen  inches  long  and  four  wide, 
covered  with  blood,  crossing  his  body — probably  the 
weapon  that  gave  him  his  death  wound.  Poor  Moses 
was  found  hard  by  stabbed  in  a  dozen  places. 

There  were  also  slain  at  Abou  Klea,  Major  Gough,  of  the 

*  4th  Dragoon  Guards. 

t  Scots  Greys. 

J  Naval  Brigade. 

||5th  Dragoon  Guards. 

§5th  Lancers. 

0  It  is  now  in  the  possession  of  Colonel  Marling 

p2 


294  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

Royal  Dragoons,  Lieutenant  Law,  4th  Dragoon  Guards, 
and  Lieutenant  Pigott,  of  the  Naval  Brigade,  while 
Major  Dickson  and  Lord  Airlie  were  wounded. 

Burnaby  was  buried  about  seven  o'clock  on  the  morn- 
ing after  the  battle  in  a  grave  on  some  rising  ground 
twenty  yards  north  of  the  spot  where  he  fell,  and  close 
beside  the  other  officers  and  men  killed  in  the  battle, 
the  burial  service  being  read  by  Lord  Charles  Beresford. 
The  spot  was  marked  by  a  low  stone  wall  and  a  large 
mound  of  stones.*  The  immense  hordes  of  dead  Arabs 
were,  by  necessity,  left  unburied.  Round  the  arms  of 
the  corpses  were  found  leathern  bands  supporting  a  little 
case  containing  a  prayer  in  Arabic,  composed  by  the 
Mahdi,  who  had  declared  that  it  would  convert  the 
British  bullets  into  water.  For  long  after  the  fight  a 
great  canopy  of  smoke  hung  over  the  battlefield,  and 
vultures  pounced  upon  the  dead  camels  immediately 
they  were  deserted. 

A  small  detachment  having  been  left  with  the  wounded, 
the  British  forces  pressed  on,  and  four  days  later  they 
encountered  the  Arabs  again  at  Abu  Kru  or  Gubat  near 
Metammeh,  where  Sir  Herbert  Stewart  received  a  wound 
which  a  few  days  laterf  proved  fatal  ;  and  the  chief 
command  fell  to  Colonel  Sir  Charles  Wilson.  Among 
others  who  fell  at  Gubat  were  Mr.  Cameron,  the  corres- 
pondent of  The  Standard  and  Mr.  St.  Leger  Herbert, 
correspondent  of  The  Morning  Post,  who  are  said  to  have 
been  killed  by  the  same  bullet.  They  were  borne  to  their 
grave  by  Mr.  Burleigh,  of  the  Daily  Telegraph,  Mr.  F. 
Villiers,  of  the  Graphic,  Mr.  Melton  Prior,  of  the  Illus- 
trated London  News,  Mr.  H.  H.  S.  Pearse,  of  the  Daily 
News,  Mr.  Charles  Williams,  of  the  Daily  Chronicle,  and 
other  sympathisers. 

An  attempt  was  made  by  Sir  Charles  Wilson  to  reach 
Khartoum  by  steamer,  but  on  receiving  the  sad  intellig- 
ence that  Khartoum  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the 

♦Letter   from    Thomas   Murray    (Sergeant    Gds.    Camel   Regiment)  to 
Burnaby 's  relatives. 
f  He  died  on  Feb.  16th. 


TROOPER    GEORGE     MURRAY, 
Royal  Scots  Greys. 


THE    BATTLE    OF    ABOU    KLEA  297 

Mahdi,  and  that  Gordon  was  dead,*  he  relinquished  the 
attempt,  and  returned  with  his  wearied  and  ragged  sol- 
diers to  the  base  at  Korti,  where  the  glowing  praise 
which  they  heard  from  the  lips  of  Lord  Wolseley  more 
than  recompensed  them  for  their  sufferings. 

"  You  have  certainly  done  your  best,"  he  said,  "  and 
though  you  cannot  get  into  Khartoum  this  year,  you  will 
next." 

As  everyone  knows,  however,  it  took  longer  than  Lord 
Wolseley  anticipated.  It  was  not  until  December  1899, 
that  British  troops,  under  Kitchener,  after  defeating  the 
Mahdi'sf  successor,  at  the  battle  of  Omdurman,  finally 
reached  Khartoum,  and  put  a  period  to  the  wasteful  and 
inhuman  rule  of  Khalifa  and  Dervish. 

*  He  was  slain  on  Jan.  26th. 

I  The  Mahdi  died  22nd  June,  1885.  He  was  succeeded  by  the  Khalifa 
Abdullah. 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

An  Independent  Account  of  the  Battle  of  Abou 

Klea. 

[Written    specially    for   this    work    by    Lieutenant- Colonel 

Lord  Binning.] 

On   the   13th   January,    1885,   the   Camel   Corps   had 

reached  Gadkul  Wells,  some  96  miles  from  our  starting 

point  at  Korti  :  and  it  was  here  that  Colonel 

75-  The  Bravest  Burnaby  overtook  us. 
Man  in  Eng-  J 

land  dying.       Before    starting    he    had    met    with    an 

accident  which  might  have  proved  serious. 

He  had  gone  to  Captain,  now  Colonel,   Brocklehurst's 

remount  camp  to  select  camels  for  his  journey,  and  it  was 

characteristic  of  him  that  he  insisted  on  mounting  a  wild 

half-broken   animal  against   which  he  was  warned,   as 

dangerous  to  ride.     The  brute  proceeded  to  kick  himself 

clean  out  of  the  saddle,  throwing  Burnaby  from  a  great 

height  to  the  ground.    It  was  a  wonder  he  was  not  killed ; 

as  it  was  he  was  severely  shaken,  and  it  was  some  time 

before  he  recovered  sufficiently  to  proceed. 

The  column  resumed  its  march  on  the  14th,  and  on 
that  day  our  scouts  reported  signs  of  the  enemy  in  front. 
So  when  on  the  evening  of  the  15th  we  halted  near  a  high 
hill,  Jebel  el  Sergain,  it  had  become  pretty  certain  that 
we  were  in  for  some  fighting. 

We  bivouacked  for  a  few  hours  to  wait  for  the  moon  to 
rise,  and  it  was  here  that  the  Colonel  sent  for  me.  I 
found  him  at  his  evening  meal,  and  in  high  spirits  at  the 
prospect  of  fighting.  Bennet  Burleigh  and  Williams, 
of  the  Chronicle,  were  with  him,  and  to  them  he  was  de- 
tailing the  steps  he  intended  to  take  to  maintain  order 

(298) 


LORD    BINNING'S    NARRATIVE  299 

and  discipline  in  Metammeh  when  we  arrived  there, 
it  being  understood  that  he  was  to  be  appointed  governor 
of  the  place.  After  some  conversation  and  speculation 
as  to  the  force  we  were  likely  to  encounter,  the  Colonel 
turned  laughingly  to  me  and  said,  "  I  want  you  to  give 
the  men  a  message.  Tell  them  I  shall  be  disappointed 
if  each  of  them  does  not  account  for  at  least  six  of  the 
enemy  to-morrow."  The  fight,  however,  was  not  des- 
tined to  be  next  day.  I  delivered  the  message,  and  the 
men  were  delighted. 

Starting  again  before  daylight  on  the  16th,  the  enemy's 
position  was  located  about  noon  some  four  miles  to  our 
front.  Sir  Herbert  Stewart,  finding  they  were  in  great 
force,  decided  to  postpone  the  attack  till  next  day. 

Meanwhile  we  constructed  a  rough  zereba  for  camels 
and  baggage,  and  before  sunset  a  long  low  wall  had  been 
quickly  thrown  up,  behind  which  we  got  what  sleep  we 
could. 

The  night  was  bitterly  cold,  and  very  dark  ;  small 
bodies  of  the  enemy's  riflemen  crept  up  to  the  hills  on 
our  right  flank,  and  along  the  nullahs  to  our  front, 
and  kept  up  an  intermittent  fire  all  night ;  and  though 
the  casualties  were  not  many  it  was  harassing  to  the 
men.  Moreover  the  noise  of  the  tom-toms,  borne  down 
the  breeze,  seemed  occasionally,  to  overstrained  nerves, 
surprisingly  close,  and  on  more  than  one  occasion  the 
whole  force,  right  down  the  line,  stood  simultaneously 
to  their  posts,  with  ba\^onets  fixed  and  eyes  peering  into 
the  darkness. 

It  was  during  one  of  these  alarms  that  from  the  direc- 
tion of  the  enemy  we  heard  the  tramp  of  a  horse's  feet 
on  the  gravel  advancing  towards  us,  and,  curiously 
enough,  straight  to  our  detachment.  The  end  of  a  cigar 
glowed  in  the  darkness,  and  with  an  instinctive  knowledge 
of  his  man,  one  of  my  troopers  exclaimed,  "  It  must  be 
the  Colonel."  He  was  right,  it  was  Burnaby  returning 
from  a  solitary  visit  of  observation  to  the  enemy's  lines. 
I  got  over  the  wall  and  went  up  to  him,  and  explained 


300  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

the  state  of  affairs,  and  how  annoying  it  was  that  my 
men  could  not  go  to  sleep.  He  laughed  his  cheery  laugh. 
"  Ah  !  never  mind,"  he  said,  "  boys  will  be  boys."  Some- 
what shamefacedly  the  word  was  passed  down  the  line, 
and  there  were  no  more  alarms  that  night.  These  were 
the  last  words  I  was  ever  to  hear  him  speak. 

It  wras  a  relief  when  morning  came  at  last — the  dawn 
of  Abou  Klea,  which  was  to  be  Burnaby's  last  fight ; 
and  breakfastless  the  column  fell  in  to  advance  in  the 
square  at  7  a.m.  As  a  matter  of  fact  we  did  not  move 
off  until  an  hour  and  a  half  later,  and  even  then  early 
casualties  began  to  come  thick,  Majors  Gough  and  Dick- 
son, and  Lieutenants  Beech  and  Lyall  being  hit  before 
the  advance  began. 

It  looked  about  now  as  if  the  tribesmen  intended  to 
come  on  ;  their  main  body  advanced  towards  us  down 
the  centre  of  the  valley,  and  then  halted  about  a  mile  off. 
The  war-drums  were  sounding  and  banners  flying, 
whilst  thousands  of  spear  heads  glittered  in  the  morning 
sun. 

As  they  remained  halted  Sir  Herbert  Stewart  deter- 
mined to  attack,  and  taking  ground  to  the  right  along  the 
gravelly  ridges,  so  as  to  avoid  the  broken  ground  and 
nullahs  in  front,  the  square,  approximately  1200  strong, 
moved  off  in  the  following  formation.  The  guards  led 
the  way  with  Mounted  Infantry  and  Heavy  Camel  Corps 
on  left  face,  the  remainder  of  the  Heavy  Camel  Corps  and 
Naval  Brigade  in  the  rear  face,  and  the  Sussex  regiment 
on  the  right.  Undoubtedly  an  initial  mistake,  which 
was  to  cost  us  dear  later  on,  was  made  in  crowding  too 
many  camels  laden  with  ammunition,  water  and  cacolets* 
for  the  wounded  into  so  small  a  square,  offering  as  they 
did  a  conspicious  mark  for  the  enemy's  sharp-shooters. 
It  was  not  long  before  almost  every  camel  was  hit,  and  the 
poor  brutes  labouring  slowly  along  hampered  our  move- 
ments considerably,  and  gave  the  rear  face  of  the  square 
in  which  we  were  marching  infinite  trouble  to  keep  closed 

*  Litters. 


LORD    BINNINGS    NARRATIVE  301 

up.  The  sun  was  now  very  hot  overhead,  and  the  advance 
tedious.  The  Kordofan  hunters,  hidden  on  the  heights 
on  our  right,  kept  up  a  pretty  accurate  fire,  though  we 
never  saw  a  man.  The  surgeons  were  kept  busy,  and 
during  the  frequent  halts  to  pick  up  the  wounded, 
the  square  was  ordered  to  lie  down  and  fire  volleys  in  the 
direction  of  the  invisible  foe. 

Away  in  the  distance  the  hills  to  our  left  were  black 
with  Arabs,  apparently  waiting  the  issue  of  the  struggle. 
But  in  the  meantime  the  main  fighting  body  of  the  enemy 
had  apparently  retired  before  us,  and  was  taking  cover 
in  the  nullahs  and  scrubby  ground  below  us.  Suddenly 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  us,  and  on  our  left  front, 
two  large  bodies  of  the  enemy  appeared,  banners  flying, 
and  drums  beating,  apparently  moving  slowly  off  in  the 
direction  of  Berber.  The  square,  which  had  been  halted, 
received  immediate  orders  to  advance  on  to  a  favourable 
ridge  and  fire  volleys  on  the  retreating  masses.  The 
order  was  eagerly  obeyed,  and  three  sides  of  the  square 
at  once  advanced.  Meanwhile  many  of  the  wounded 
camels  had  taken  the  opportunity  to  lie  down,  and,  in 
spite  of  our  efforts  to  urge  them  forward,  our  further 
advance  was  blocked,  and  a  gap  of  some  sixty  to  eighty 
yards  speedily  established  between  the  rear  face  and  the 
remainder  of  the  square. 

It  was  at  this  moment  that  almost  at  our  feet  a  force 
of  Dervishes,  estimated  at  between  three  and  four 
thousand  strong,  sprang  up  as  if  from  the  bowels  of  the 
earth,  and  headed  by  their  Emirs  and  Baggara  horsemen, 
charged  the  left  face  of  the  square. 

Swiftly  and  with  almost  appalling  silence,  they  came  on, 
and  then  suddenly  espying  the  weak  spot  in  our  defence, 
they  wheeled  like  a  flock  of  pigeons  and  made  for  the 
gap  on  our  left  rear.  At  the  same  moment  the  two 
bodies  we  had  already  seen  wheeled  about  and  joined  in 
the  charge.  Our  men,  though  completely  taken  by  sur- 
prise, fell  back  steadily  in  an  endeavour  to  close  the 
rear  face.     I  could  see  Burnaby  on  his  pony  riding  to 


302  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

and  fro,  and  urging  our  men  to  fall  back  quickly,  but 
our  riflemen,  who  were  out  skirmishing,  masked  our  fire, 
and  it  was  not  until  the  last  of  them  had  managed  to  crawl 
in  on  their  hands  and  knees,  to  avoid  the  bullets  of  our 
own  men,  that  an  effective  fire  could  be  brought  to  bear. 
It  was  then  too  late,  for  in  those  few  moments  the 
mischief  had  been  done,  and  the  Dervishes  were  into 
the  square  stabbing  right  and  left,  and  it  was  at  that 
corner  that  our  greatest  loss  took  place. 

I  hope  I  may  be  pardoned  for  having  thus  gone  into 
the  details  of  a  fight  which  though,  in  the  nature  of  events 
has  been  long  forgotten  by  the  British  public,  will 
never  be  forgotten  by  those  who  were  there,  but  I  have 
done  so  because  an  idea  existed,  and  still  exists  in  some 
quarters,  that  the  square  was  broken  by  the  Arab  rush. 
The  square  was  not  broken,  because  as  I  have  shown, 
and  I  had  every  opportunity  of  judging  at  the  time  of  the 
onslaught,  there  was  no  square  to  break,  and  nothing  but 
the  steadiness  and  magnificent  physique  of  the  picked 
men  of  the  British  army  could  have  saved  a  complete 
disaster — it  was  a  soldier's  fight. 

It  is  not  easy,  nor  is  it  necessary,  to  describe  the  next 
few  minutes  ;  probably  every  man  who  was  there  had 
some  different  impression  as  to  what  actually  took  place, 
for  in  the  melee  which  ensued,  the  square,  driven  in  by 
sheer  force  of  numbers,  barely  held  its  ground. 

Friend  and  foe  were  inextricably  mixed,  men  were 
carried  off  their  feet  in  the  rush,  and  every  man  was  fight- 
ing for  his  own  hand  and  his  life. 

For  a  moment  through  the  smoke  I  caught  a  glimpse 
of  Burnaby,  his  arm  outstretched,  his  four-barrelled 
Lancaster  pistol  in  his  hand.  It  was  only  a  momentary 
glimpse,  and  I  did  not  see  him  again  until  all  was  over. 
For  a  few  moments  the  issue  hung  in  the  balance,  but  the 
splendid  discipline  of  the  Guards  and  Mounted  Infantry 
came  to  the  assistance  of  their  hard-pressed  comrades 
of  the  Heavy  Camel  Corps.  Wheeling  up,  they  poured  a 
terrific  hail  of  bullets  into  the  charging  masses.    While  at 


LORD    BINNING'S    NARRATIVE  303 

the  same  time  the  rear  ranks  facing  about  helped  to  clear 
the  interior  of  the  square  of  the  enemy.  Beneath 
the  iron  storm  the  Dervish  hosts  staggered,  faltered, 
and  finally  gave  way. 

As  the  tide  turned  in  our  favour  a  tremendous  cheer 
went  up  from  our  men,  and  the  Dervishes  slowly  and 
sullenly  retired,  even  then  unwilling  to  admit  defeat. 
I  made  my  way  as  best  I  could  to  the  spot  where  last 
I  had  seen  the  Colonel,  foreboding  in  my  heart.  But  I 
was  not  the  first  to  find  him.  A  young  private,  in  the 
Bays,  a  mere  lad,  was  already  beside  him,  endeavouring 
to  support  his  head  on  his  knee.  The  lad's  genuine  grief, 
with  tears  running  down  his  cheeks,  was  as  touching  as 
were  his  simple  words  :  "  Oh  !  sir  ;  here  is  the  bravest 
man  in  England  dying,  and  no  one  to  help  him."  It  was 
too  true,  a  glance  showed  that  he  was  past  help.  A  spear 
had  inflicted  a  terrible  wound  on  the  right  side  of  his  neck 
and  throat,  and  his  skull  had  been  cleft  by  a  blow 
from  a  two-handed  sword — probably  as  he  fell  forward 
on  his  pony's  neck.  Either  wound  would  have  proved 
mortal.  The  marvel  was  that  he  was  still  alive.  As 
I  took  his  hand,  a  feeble  pressure,  and  a  faint  look  of 
recognition  in  his  eyes,  told  me  he  still  breathed,  but  life 
was  ebbing  fast,  and  it  was  only  a  matter  of  a  few  mo- 
ments before  he  was  gone.  Amid  the  slain  Arabs  he  lay 
there,  a  veritable  Colossus,  and  alone  of  the  dead  his  face 
wore  the  composed  and  placid  smile  of  one  who  had  been 
suddenly  called  away  in  the  midst  of  a  congenial  and 
favourite  occupation  ;  as  undoubtedly  was  the  case. 

He  was  killed  some  thirty  yards  from  the  square,  and 
no  friendly  form  lay  near  him,  save  one,  for  under  a  pile 
of  dead  fanatics,  we  found  the  body,  scarce  recognisable, 
of  Corporal  Mackintosh,  of  my  detachment,  who  had 
perished  in  a  gallant  attempt  to  save  his  Colonel. 

We  covered  up  the  latter  with  a  Union  Jack,  possibly 
the  same  flag  he  had  hoped  to  see  float  over  Metammeh, 
and  that  afternoon  he  was  buried  on  the  scene  of  his 


304     LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 

last  fight,  beside  the  other  fallen  officers  of  the  Heavy 
Camel    Corps. 

A  cairn  of  stones  was  subsequently  erected  over  his 
grave,  and  I  believe  remains  to  this  day  undisturbed. 

It  has  been  announced  that  Burnaby  met  his  death 
by  being  taken  unawares  outside  the  Square.  This  we 
shall  never  know,  but  personally  I  am  strongly  of  opinion 
that  this  was  not  so. 

Throughout  his  career  his  reckless  daring  had  never 
conformed  to  the  most  ordinary  dictates  of  prudence, 
and  I  cannot  imagine  him  withdrawing  into  a  square  like 
other  men,  even  in  the  face  of  certain  and  imminent 
death.  This  was  not  his  first  experience  of  a  dervish 
rush,  and  I  am  convinced  that  he  remained  outside  by 
choice,  the  fighting  lust  strong  in  him,  only  too  eager  to 
match  his  strength  against  the  oncoming  hordes,  and 
even  though  he  paid  for  his  venture  with  his  life,  we  may 
be  certain  that  his  end  was  the  one  he  would  have  chosen. 
It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  in  our  little  force 
Burnaby's  death  caused  a  feeling  nearly  akin  to  constern- 
ation. In  my  own  detachment  many  of  the  men  sat 
down  and  cried.  We  knew  that  in  the  event  of  anything 
happening  to  Sir  Herbert  Stewart,  he  carried  in  his  pocket 
orders  to  take  over  the  command,  and  when  three  days 
later  at  Abu  Kru  that  gallant  officer  received  his  mortal 
wound,  the  thought  uppermost  in  the  minds  of  many  of 
the  men  in  the  tiny  square,  fighting  their  desperate  way 
to  the  Nile,  must  have  been — "  If  only  Burnaby  were 
with  us  to-day  !  " 

It  would  be  affectation  to  pretend  that  amongst  the 

senior  officers  in  his  regiment,  Burnaby  was  altogether 

popular.     It    is   no   disparagement  to   his 

76—    Other        memory  to    say    so.     In    the    nature    of 

Reminiscences,  things  it  could  not  be  otherwise.     Living 

his  Bohemian  life  entirely  aloof,  absolutely 

regardless  of  conventionalities,  either  in  the  matter  of 

dress,  or  choice  of  friends,  he  neither  participated  in  their 

pursuits  nor  affected  the  same  society — but  amongst  us 


LORD    BINNING'S    NARRATIVE  305 

juniors  his  kindly  disposition,  and  invariable  readiness 
to  help  a  youngster,  made  him  uniformly  popular,  and 
by  the  men  it  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  he  was  absol- 
utely worshipped.  His  colossal  strength,  and  the  tales 
of  his  prowess  and  recklessness,  whether  ballooning  or 
fighting  in  distant  lands,  appealed  vividly  to  the  imagina- 
tion of  the  big  troopers,  not  less  than  the  unvarying  up- 
rightness and  fairness  of  his  rule  as  commanding  officer  ; 
and  I  am  convinced  that  the  imagination  could  not  con- 
ceive of  any  enterprise,  however  desperate,  in  which  the 
Blues  would  not  have  followed  their  Colonel  as  one 
man. 

Burnaby  was  the  first  to  introduce  into  the  cavalry 
the  system  of  silent  drill  by  signal,  now  of  course  for  a 
long  time  universally  adopted,  and  I  well  remember 
one  occasion  on  the  Fox  Hills  when  Sir  Archibald  Alison 
was  present  being  anxious  to  see  the  new  system. 

After  drilling  the  regiment  for  some  time,  Burnaby 
fell  out  all  the  officers  and  proceeded  to  perform  a  number 
of  evolutions  at  a  smart  gallop,  which  were  carried  out 
in  excellent  order ;  indeed  I  am  not  at  all  sure  that  the 
regiment  did  not  drill  better  without  us  ! 

One  little  incident  I  recollect,  which  immensely 
amused  the  men  at  the  time.  We  were  engaged  in 
a  football  match  on  the  green  inside  Windsor  Cavalry 
Barracks,  and  the  verandahs  were  crowded  with  onlook- 
ers, as  the  Colonel,  dressed  for  London  in  frock  coat  and 
tall  hat,  with  a  cigar  in  his  mouth,  came  out  of  the  officers' 
quarters  and  proceeded  slowly  across  a  corner  of  the 
ground,  apparently  oblivious  of  the  fact  that  a  match 
was  in  progress  at  the  time.  At  this  moment  our  full 
back,  a  gigantic  Yorkshire-man  named  Bates,  who  must 
have  weighed  nearer  fifteen  than  fourteen  stone,  charging 
impetuously  for  the  ball,  dashed  full  into  Burnaby.  The 
impact  was  terrific,  but  while  the  Tyke,  hurled  backwards 
by  the  shock,  as  though  he  had  collided  with  a  mountain, 
lay  gasping  on  the  ground,  neither  Burnaby's  hat  nor  the 
angle  of  his  cigar  was  in  the  smallest  degree  disturbed, 


306  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

in  fact  he  scarcely  seemed  to  realise  that  a  collision  had 
taken  place.  When  he  did  so  he  removed  his  cigar 
from  his  mouth,  and  with  his  pleasant  smile  said,  "  Dear 
me,  I  do  hope  I  am  not  interfering  with  the  game."  The 
shout  of  delight  which  went  up  from  the  verandahs 
was  a  thing  to  remember. 

I  have  been  asked  to  express  an  opinion  as  to  Colonel 
Burnaby's  qualities  as  a  cavalry  soldier.  This  is  a 
delicate  and  rather  difficult  question  to  answer.  As  a 
cavalry  leader,  he  was  undoubtedly  handicapped  by  his 
great  weight  ;  at  the  same  time  it  was  surprising  how 
quickly  he  managed  to  get  about  on  his  big  horses. 

A  great  friend  of  his,  a  literary  man,  wrote  of  him  in 
an  obituary  notice,  "  That  he  was  more  fitted  by  nature 
to  be  the  inspired  leader  of  Turkoman  hordes  than  the 
colonel  of  a  crack  regiment  of  Household  Cavalry." 
There  may  be  some  truth  in  this — at  the  same  time 
Burnaby  was  a  magnificent  drill,  and  an  excellent  judge 
of  men,  with  a  lightning  grasp  of  a  situation,  and  the 
promptitude  to  act  upon  it.  He  was  absolutely  fearless 
of  responsibility,  and  with  his  reckless  courage  and  the 
power  of  inspiring  not  only  the  confidence,  but  the  devo- 
tion of  those  who  served  under  him,  it  is  impossible 
to  say  how  far  he  might  not  have  gone  as  a  cavalry 
leader. 

I  give  my  opinion  for  what  it  is  worth.  One  thing 
I  do  know,  which  is  that  by  his  death  I  lost  a  good  friend, 
and  the  empire  one  of  the  most  notable  soldiers  of  our 
time. 


CHAPTER    XX. 

Conclusion. 

Throughout   England  the  news   of  Burnaby's   death 
was  received  with  profound  regret.     The  whole  nation 
was    moved.     The    Queen    expressed    her 
77— Reception     sympathy  with  Mrs.  Burnaby  by  telegram, 
°f  England. m  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales  wrote 
most  kind  and  sympathetic  letters  to  the 
Rev.  Evelyn  Burnaby,  who  also  received  resolutions  of 
condolence  from  the  corporations  of  Bedford,  Birming- 
ham, Leicester,  Wolverhampton,  and  many  other  towns, 
as  well  as  from  the  Balloon  Society. 

The  Blues  were  thrilled  by  the  tragic  news,  and  they 
recognised,  as  they  had  never  recognised  before,  the  true 
worth  of  the  greatest  of  their  colonels. 

"  We  all  looked  upon  him  as  a  gallant  soldier,"  says 
the  Earl  of  Erroll,*  "  and  were  proud  of  the  way  in  which 
he  died."  The  people  of  Bedford  decided,  at  a  meeting 
convened  by  the  Mayor,  Mr.  Joshua  Hawkins,  to  place 
to  his  memory  a  memorial  window  in  St.  Peter's  Church, 
and  to  build  a  Volunteer  Drill  Hall.  At  Birmingham  his 
memory  was  honoured  by  the  erection  in  St.  Philip 'sf 
churchyard  of  an  obelisk,  with  four  panels  exihibiting  a 
bust  of  Burnaby,  and  the  words  :  "  Khiva  1875," 
"  Abou  Klea  1885."  The  whole  British  Press,  Liberal 
as  well  as  Conservative,  paid  a  tribute  to  the  dead  hero. 
Punch,  in  some  feeling  lines  commencing,  '  Brave 
Burnaby  down!"  called  him  "a  latter-day  Paladin," 
"  who  death  had  so  often  affronted  before,"  and  declared 
his  story  to  be  as  romantic  as  Roland's.  Mr.  Chamber- 
lain,  speaking  on  January  29th  at  Birmingham,  said, 

*  Who  served  sixteen  years  in  tne  regiment  with  Burnaby. 
f  The   cathedral  church. 

(307) 


308  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

"  We  all  share  the  deep  regret  which  is  felt  in  Birmingham 
at  the  death  at  the  moment  of  victory  of  Colonel  Burn- 
aby,  who  was  lately  our  Conservative  opponent.  In  the 
presence  of  such  a  calamity  political  controversies  are 
hushed,  and  we  have  only  to  deplore  the  loss  of  as  brave 
a  soldier  as  ever  wore  the  British  uniform."  A  Liberal 
audience  signified  its  approval  of  this  eulogy  by  loud 
cheers.  Nor  were  Colonel  Burnaby's  foreign  friends  less 
sympathetic — Don  Carlos,  Duke  of  Madrid,  "  received 
the  news  of  his  death  with  profound  regret."  Spain 
and  Italy  mourned  with  England. 

Burnaby  had  died  at  the  early  age  of  42,  yet  how 
very  many  incidents  he  had  crowded  into  that  short 
adventurous  life  led  in  the  barrack,  in  the 
78- A  Retrospect,  aerostat,  on  the  platform,  in  foreign  lands, 
amid  seething  mobs  and  trampling  armies. 
One  recalls  those  schooldays  at  Bedford,  Harrow,  Oswes- 
try, and  Dresden,  his  strenuous  early  career  in  the 
Blues,  his  ascent  m  that  moving  hell,  the  Montgolfier 
balloon  of  M.  Godard,  his  travels  and  adventures  in  Spain, 
his  Rides  to  Khiva  and  through  Asia  Minor,  the  part  he 
took  in  the  masterly  retreat  over  the  Rodolphe  Moun- 
tains, his  doughty  championship  of  Conservatism  at 
Birmingham,  his  balloon  voyage  across  the  channel, 
the  battles  of  El  Teb,  and  finally  that  last  awful  field 
where  he  found  a  soldier's  grave. 

Twenty -three  years  after  his  death  we  may  look  round 

and  enquire  which  of  his  relatives,  friends  and  intimate 

acquaintances  are  still  living.     One  thinks 

friend*  and    first    of    Mrs.    Fred    Burnaby    (now    Mrs. 
intimate       Aubrey  Le  Blond),  who  is  well  known  as 
CCS*  an  author.     To  The  High  Alps  in  Winter, 
we    have    already    referred.     Since    Colonel    Burnaby's 
death   she  has   written   many   other  works,*   and   con- 
tributed to  most  of  the  leading  magazines.     Her  whole 

*Hi?h  Life  and  Towers  of  Silence  1886,  My  Home  in  the  Alps  1892,  Hints  on 
Snow  Photography  1895,  Cities  and  Sights  of  Spain,  1899  (two  editions)  True 
Tales  of  Mountain  Adventure,  1903  (four  editions),  Adventures  on  the  Roof  of  the 
World,  1904  (two  editions),  The  Story  of  an  Alpine  Winter  1908.  She  is 
illustrator  of  The  Art  of  Garden  Design  in  Italy  by  H.  Inigo  Triggs. 


CONCLUSION  309 

soul  is  in  matters  Alpine.  Her  own  adventures  have 
been  strange  and  various,  but  in  several  of  her  books — 
and  she  has  a  vivid  pen — she  has  dealt  with  the  experi- 
ences of  other  climbers  ;  and  in  my  dreams,  after  reading 
them,  I  have  spent  hours  mewed  up  in  icy  caves,  I  have 
tumbled  down  bottomless  precipices,  I  have  been  saved 
by  a  hair's  breath,  I  have  walked  on  long  ridges  of  ice 
that  looked  like  razor  edges,  I  have  been  licked  up  by 
avalanches,  I  have  discovered  my  remains — that  is  to  say, 
a  bone  and  a  few  buttons — fifty  years  after  my  death, 
I  have  babbled  of  ice,  snow,  glacier,  crevasse  and  berg- 
schrund — whatever  that  might  be.  It  is  not  to  be  sup- 
posed, however,  that  my  experiences  will  deter  anyone 
from  reading  Mrs.  Le  Blond's  books.  All  who  have 
visited  Switzerland,  all  who  want  to  visit  it,  and  all  who 
love  to  hear  of  exciting  adventures,  will  seek  after  them 
and  read  them — nightmare  or  no  nightmare. 

Colonel  Burnaby's  son,  Harry  Arthur  Gustavus  St. 
Vincent,  now  resides  at  Brighton,  and  he  is  a  member  of 
the  Carlton  Club.  Mrs.  Manners-Sutton  is  dead,  but  the 
Rev.  Evelyn  Burnaby*  and  Mrs.  Duncan  Baillie  still 
survive.  Sir  Henry  Colvile  met  his  death  in  a  motor 
accident  on  25th  November,  1907.  Mr.  T.  Gibson 
Bowles,  Lord  Manners,  Lord  Dundonald,  Lord  Binning, 
Don  Carlos  (Duke  of  Madrid),  Mr.  Labouchere,  the  Earl 
of  Erroll,  Sir  Benjamin  and  Lady  Stone,  Sir  John 
Willoughby,  and  Mr.  Joseph  Rowlands  are  still  with  us, 
but  Mr.  J.  Satchell  Hopkins,  Mr.  W.  Barton  and  Mr.  W. 
H.  Greening  are  gone. 

Burnaby's  friendship  with  Mr.  Bowles  was  one  of  those 
great  friendships  of  which  the  history  of  the  ages  offers 
so  few  examples.  Often  and  often  Burnaby  referred  to 
the  strength  of  the  link  that  connected  them  ;  and 
to  Mr.  Bowles's  remarkable  talents  he  paid  many  a  glow- 
ing tribute.  Mr.  Bowles's  present  feelings  towards 
Burnaby  may   be   gauged   by   the  letter   given   in   our 

*  Mr.  Burnaby  is  a  great  lover  of  dogs,  and  his  valuable  Dandies  are 
his  constant  companions. 


310  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

preface.  In  Somerby  Church  is  a  memorial  window  to 
Burnaby's  memory,  placed  there  by  his  widow — the 
subject  being  David  and  Jonathan  ;  and  if  you  ask 
a  villager  about  it  he  pulls  a  forelock  and  says,  "It  is 
understood  that  the  Colonel  had  a  very  dear  friend ; 
perhaps  you  could  tell  me  who  it  was  ?  " 

Mr.  Robert  Buckley  no  longer  hits  on  the  head  with 
chair  leg  or  stick  people  with  whom  he  has  the  misfortune 
to  be  politically  at  variance  (indeed,  we  believe,  he  has 
for  long  taken  no  active  part  in  politics),  but  as  musical 
critic  of  the  Birmingham  Gazette,  he  still  wields  a  weapon 
which,  though  smaller  than  either  of  those  used  in  the 
riots,  is  far  more  effective,  namely,  his  pen,*  while  he 
preserves    with    jealous    care    Colonel    Burnaby's    gift. 

Mr.  Thomas  Wright,  the  aeronaut,  lives  in  retirement 
at  Forest  Gate,  if  retirement  can  be  called  a  life  of  inces- 
sant activity.  He  still  takes  a  lively  interest  in  aeronaut- 
ics, and  as  recently  as  August  29th  last  year,  he  made  an 
ascent  with  his  friend,  Mr.  Percival  Spencer,  at  Barking. 
Mr.  Davie,  an  old  retainer  of  the  Burnaby  family.,  resides 
at  Somerby  ;  Henry  Storeyj" — Burnaby's  soldier  servant 
— at  Croxteth,  near  Liverpool. 

Our  labour  is  almost  ended,  and  yet  to  write  upon  such 
a  man  as  Burnaby  is  not  a  labour  at  all,  but  rather  a 
pleasant  holiday  spent  in  rare  and  stimulating  company, 
and  in  a  different  period  ;  for  Burnaby's  atmosphere 
was  that  of  a  larger,  broader,  and  more  boisterous  age. 
Friends  of  Burnaby,  indeed — and  especially  those  of  the 
younger  generation— look  back  upon  him  as  in  their  child- 
hood they  looked  upon  such  heroes  as  Perseus  and  Her- 
cules.    England  has  reason  to  be  proud  of  him  ;   any 

*  In  1893  he  travelled  4,000  miles  in  Ireland  and  wrote  for  the  Birming- 
ham Gazette  63  articles,  which  subsequently  appeared  in  book  form  under 
the  ■*itle  of  Ireland  as  it  is,  a  work  which  drew  encomiums  from  Lord 
Salisbury,  Mr.  Balfour,  and  Mr.  Chamberlain  ;  while  Mr.  Gladstone 
called  it  "  good  literature."  Mr.  Buckley  has  also  written  a  collection  of 
stories  published  under  the  title  of  The  Master  Spy  and  a  monograph  on 
Sir  Edward  Elgar. 

f  He  left  the  Royal  Horse  Guards  in  1898  after  serving  21  years. 
Honours : — Egyptian  Medal  and  Star,  the  Long  Service  Medal,  King's 
Coronation  Medal,  Metropolitan  Police  Special  Duty,  4  medals  in  all. 


CONCLUSION  311 

man  who  has  ever  grasped  his  hand,  or  even  merely  heard 
his  voice,  may  be  pardoned  for  recalling  the  moment 
with  self-gratulation,  and  I  may  fitly  close  the  story  of  his 
life  with  a  glowing  encomium,  written  on  the  day  when  all 
the  land  was  stirred  by  the  news  of  his  death.  '  Queen 
Victoria  " — and  the  words  are  taken  from  the  Daily 
Telegraph  of  22nd  January  1885 — "  had  no  more  loyal 
subject,  the  army  no  finer  officer,  the  country  no  truer 
patriot  than  Frederick  Gustavus  Burnaby.  His  name 
shall  live  in  the  annals  of  this  Empire  and  in  the  memories 
of  his  compatriots  as  long  as  valour,  devotion  to  duty, 
and  faithfulness  unto  death,  shall  remain  the  watch- 
words of  Englishmen." 

THE    END. 


Q2 


APPENDICES 


APPENDIX    I  iii 


APPENDIX     I. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY    OF    BURNABY. 

1.  Letters  to   Vanity  Fair,  signed  Convalescent,  1868 

and  1869. 

2.  Letters  to  the  Morning  Post  in  1869,  and  subse- 

quently. 

3.  Letters  to  The  Times  1874.     Written  from  Spain. 

4.  Letters   to    The    Times    1875.     Written   from    the 

Soudan. 

5.  The  Practical  Instruction  of  Staff  Officers  in  Foreign 

Armies  (W.  Mitchell  &  Co.,  39,  Charing  Cross), 
1876. 

6.  A  Ride  to  Khiva  :  Travels  and  Adventures  in  Central 

Asia  (Cassell)  1876. 

7.  On  Horseback  through  Asia  Minor   (Sampson   Low 

and   Co.,   1877),   7th    Ed.,    with    portrait    and 
Memoir  of  Radford,  1878. 

8.  Letters   to  the    Times,    15th   January,    1879,    and 

subsequently. 

9.  Letters  to  the  Birmingham  Daily  Gazette  (in  1880 

and  subsequently),  and  the  Birmingham  Post. 

10.  A    Ride   Across  the   Channel  and  other   Adventures  - 

in  the  Air,  1882.     Sampson  Low  &  Co. 

11.  The    Life    Adventures    and    Political    Opinions    of 

Frederick  Gustavus   Burnaby,  by  R.   K.  Mann 
(Revised  by  Burnaby). 

12.  Possibilities    of    Ballooning.     Fortnightly    Review, 

May  1884. 

13.  Our  Radicals,  2  vols.,  1886.      Edited  by  Mr.  Percival 

Hughes. 


iv  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

APPENDIX    II. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY    OF    MRS.    FRED    BURNABY    (MRS.    AUBREY 

LE    BLOND). 

The  High  Alps  in  Winter.     1883. 

High  Life  and  Towers  of  Silence.     1886. 

My  Home  in  the  Alps.     1892. 

Hints  on  Snow  Photography.     1895. 

Cities  and  Sights  of  Spain.     1899.     Two  editions. 

True  Tales  of  Mountain  Adventure.    1903.     4th  Ed.  1906. 

Adventures    on    the    Roof    of    the     World.     1904.     Two 

editions. 
The  Story  of  an  Alpine  Winter.     A  novel. 
Illustration  of  The  Art  of  Garden  Design  in  Italy,  by  H. 

Inigo  Triggs.     Contributor  to  many  magazines. 

1906. 

APPENDIX    III. 

burnaby's  promotions. 

1859     Sept.  30     Cornet    in    the    Royal    Horse    Guards 

(Blues) 
1861     Sept.  27     Lieutenant 
1866     July  17     Captain 

1879  Sept.  11     Major 

1880  Lieutenant-Colonel 
1884  Colonel 

APPENDIX    IV. 

MRS.    BURNABY    (FRED'S    MOTHER). 

Some  years  ago  at  the  sale  of  Berechurch  Hill,  Essex, 
the  property  of  the  Smythe  family,  the  Rev.  Paul  Wyatt, 
of  Austin  Canons,  Bedford,  purchased  an  old  Sheraton 
looking  glass,  and  on  examining  one  of  the  drawers  he 


APPENDIX    V  v 

found  at  the  bottom  (outside)  the  following  inscrip- 
tion :  Frederick  Villebois,*  Charlotte  Smyth,  Maria 
Villebois,  Harriet  Villebois,  Emma  Blake,  Emily  Ville- 
bois, Henry  Villebois. 

(Emma,  Emily,   Chariot  te).f 
In   infancy    their   hopes    and    fears 

Were  to  each  other  known, 
And  friendship  in  their  riper  years 
Entwined  their  hearts  in  one. 

APPENDIX    V. 

ADMINISTRATIONS 
FROM   27TH   FEBRUARY   1868,    TO   ILLUSTRATE   BURNABY's 

POLITICAL    CAREER. 

1868     Feb.  27     Disraeli 

1868     Dec.    9     Gladstone 

1874     Feb.  21     Disraeli,    created   Earl   Beaconsfield   in 

1876 
1880     Apl.  28     Gladstone 

APPENDIX    VI. 

VICARS    OF    SOMERBY    FROM    1759. 


William  Brown 

1759-1814 

Thomas  Hanbury 

1814-1855 

S.  Rolleston  (he  was  curate  of  Somerby  from 

1851  to  1855) 

1855-1866 

Gustavus  A.  Burnaby 

1866-1872 

E.  Pemberton 

1873-1874 

T.  C.  Britten 

1874-1881 

S.  T.  Mosse 

1882-1887 

W.  MacManus 

1887-1895 

H.  Webb-Smith 

1895 

George  Edmund  Britten 

1898 

*  Mrs.  Burnaby's  brother. 

•f  These  words  are  enclosed  in  a  line. 

vi  LIFE    OF    COLONEL    BURNABY 

APPENDIX    VII. 

RECTORS  OF  ST.   PETER'S,   BEDFORD,   FROM  1835. 

1835  Gustavus  Andrew  Burnaby. 

1866  Septimus  Rolleston. 

1871  William  Hart-Smith. 

1899  Charles  Wells. 

1904  John  Ernest  Gilbert. 

APPENDIX    VIII. 

MEMORIALS    TO    BURNABY. 

1.  The  Obelisk  at  Birmingham. 

In  the  graveyard  of  St.  Philip's  Church,  Birmingham, 
is  an  obelisk  to  Burnaby's  memory.  At  the  base  are 
four  panels  containing  respeetively  a  bust  of  Burnaby, 
his  name,  "  Khiva  1875  "  and  "  Abou  Klea  1885." 

2.  The  Memorial  to  Colonel  Burnaby  at  Harrow  School. 

In    Memory    of 

Fk.  Gustavus  Burnaby, 

Colonel,  Royal  Horse  Guards, 

Born  March  3rd,  1842, 

Killed  in  action  at  Abou  Klea,  Soudan, 

January    17th,    1885. 

3.  Tivo  Stained  Glass  Windows  in  Somerby  Church. 

(1)  Subject  :  David  and  Jonathan. 

Inscription  :  To  the  glory  of  God  and  in  Memory  of 
Frederick  Gustavus  Burnaby  Colonel  commanding  the 
Royal  Horse  Guards,  Blue,  who  fell  at  the  battle  of 
Abou  Klea,  January  17th,  1885. 

(2)  Subject :  Our  Lord  (centre  light)  with  St.  Stephen 
(left)  and  St.  Paul  (right). 

Inscription  :  Erected  by  friends  in  memory  of  Colonel 
Fred  Burnaby. 


APPENDIX    VIII  vii 

4.  Stained  Glass  Window  in  St.  Peter's  Church,  Bedford. 

5.  Two  Tablets  in  Holy  Trinity  Church,   Windsor. 

(1)  Erected  by  the  late  Rector,  the  Rev.  Arthur  Robins. 
It  consists  of  a  stone  cross  let  into  the  chancel  wall 
and   fixed  upon   pieces  of  rock,   bearing   the  following 
inscription  : 

Sacred  to  the  memory  of 

Frederick  Gustavus  Burnaby, 

Colonel  of  the  Royal  Regiment  of  Horse  Guards  (Blues). 

He  was  killed  whilst  courageously  fighting  in  the  little 

square  at  Abou  Klea,  in  the  Soudan,  on  the  17th 

January,  1885,  in  the  43rd  year  of  his  age. 
(2)  A  marble  tablet  placed  on  the  wall  by  the  officers 
of  the  Blues. 


In  memory  of 

Colonel  Frederick  Gustavus  Burnaby, 

Commanding  officer  of  the  Royal  Horse  Guards, 

Who  was  hilled  in  the  battle  of  Abu  Klea,  in  the  Soudan, 

17th  January,  1885,  and  of  the  following  officers  and  men 

of  the  Royal  Horse  Guards  : 

{Here  follow  their  names) 

This  tablet  ivas  erected  by  Field  Marshall  H.R.H.  the 
Prince  of  Wales,  K.G.,  Colonel-in- Chief  of  the  Household 
Cavalry,  Field  Marshall  Lord  Strathnairn,  G.C.B., 
Colonel  of  the  Royal  Horse  Guards,  Colonel  Milne-Home, 
and  the  officers  of  the  Royal  Horse  Guards,  ivith  many 
others  who  had  formerly  served  in  the  Regiment. 


INDEX 


Absalom,  200. 
Anecdotes. 

Abbacca,  5. 

You'll  Vote  for  Stuart,  6. 

I  won't  be  a  parson,  1 1 . 

The  Goose,  22. 

Sensation  in  Church,  26. 

Burnaby  and  the  Ponies,  35. 

The  biggest  nuisance,  40. 

Mr.  Frewin  falls  on  his  head,  41. 

The  Dancing  Girls,  57. 

Doctors  in  heaven,  63. 

His  hands  frost  bitten,  93. 

The  plaster,  126. 

He   prescribes    for    a    Persian 
lady,  128. 

Will  sit  for  a  week,  157. 

The  Poster,  157. 

The  Funny  Ones,  163. 

Pitches  a  man  over  a  gateway, 
213. 

The  Scavenger,  213. 

One's  Liver,  214. 

Harry  Burnaby,  228. 

I'm  a  sweep,  233. 

The  football  match,  305. 
Aston  Park  Riots,  239. 


Baker  Pasha,  133 ;  at  El  Teb, 
216. 

Beaconsfield  (Lord),  141. 

Bedford,  1.  6,  7,  11,  15,  19;  a 
descent  at,  33  ;  a  tribute  to,  51  ; 
Mr.  Wright's  ascent  at,  193 ; 
Good  -  bye  to  Bedford,  261  ; 
honours  the  memory  of  Burna- 
by. 307. 

Binning  (Lieut-Col.  Lord),  his 
plan  of  the  square,  269 ;  his 
portrait,  279 ;  in  the  square, 
289 ;  with  the  dying  Burnaby, 
293  ;  his  graphic  account  of  the 
Battle,  298 ;  his  reminiscences 
of  Burnaby,  304. 

Birmingham.  Election,  The,  167  ; 
Burnaby's  Speeches  at,  204  ; 
the  Burnaby  Obelisk,  307. 

Borthwick  (Sir  A),  187. 


Bowles  (Mr.  T.  G.),  47,  58,  131, 
255,  261,  309. 

Boyle  (Rev.  John),  26. 

Brine  (Colonel),  177,  182. 

Bristol,  Burnaby  at,  205. 

Britten  (Rev.  G.  E.),  41. 

Bright  (Mr.  John),  154,  173. 

Bryne  (General  Sir  Owen),  61,  62. 

Buckley  (Mr.  Robert  J.),  154  ; 
clears  the  platform,  239  ;  por- 
trait, 249  ;  Burnaby's  letter  to 
him,  243  ;  Burnaby's  present  to, 
247  ;  on  Burnaby,  252  ;  his 
works,  310. 

Buller  (Sir  Redvers),  267. 

Burleigh  (Mr.  Bennet),  181  ;  calls 
on  Burnaby,  188  ;  at  El  Teb, 
224  ;  at  Abou  Klea,  286 ;  at 
Gubat,  294. 

Burnaby  (Annie),  2,  20,  132,  309. 

Burnaby  (Rev.  Evelyn),  2.  27, 
and  the  Pole,  46 ;  loses  his 
wife,  67  ;  with  Fred  in  St. 
James's  Street,  188  ;  at  Tun- 
bridge  Wells,  214,  255,  256  ;  his 
dogs,  309. 

Burnaby  (Rev.  Gustavus),  1  :  Re- 
moves to  Somerby,  39  ;  Death, 

63. 

Burnaby  (Mrs.  Gustavus),  1,  63; 
appendix,  IV. 

Burnaby  (Fred).  His  birthplace, 
1  ;  his  boyhood,  11  ;  Writes 
doggerel,  16  ;  at  Tinwell,  19  ;  at 
Harrow,  20  ;  Writes  to  Punch, 
2r  ;  at  Oswestry,  22  ;  the  Goose, 
22  ;  at  Dresden,  25 ;  ascends  at 
Cremorne,  29  ;  feats  of  strength, 
34  ;  accident  in  the  air,  42  ;  at 
Pau,  48  ;  in  Seville,  50  ;  as  a 
Troubadour,  51  ;  in  Morocco, 
56  ;  in  Russia,  59  ;  at  Naples, 
64  ;  in  Seville.  67  ;  with  the  Car- 
lists,  68  ;  ascends  in  Mr. 
Wright's  balloon,  80 ;  hisjourney 
to  Sobat,  81  ;  his  journey  to 
Khiva,  87 ;  ascends  with  Mr. 
Lucy,  109 ;  ascends  with  Mr. 
Wright,    in ;   journey  through 

viii 


INDEX 


IX 


Burnaby — Cont. 
Asia  Minor,  115;  adventures  in 
Turkey,  133  ;  at  Radford's 
funeral.  142  ;  candidate  for  Bir- 
mingham, 146 ;  crosses  the 
Channel  by  balloon,  179  ;  his 
telegram  to  Mr.  Wright,  1S7 ; 
proposes  to  ascend  at  Bedford, 
193  ;  with  Mr.  Deutsch  in  Spain, 

197  ;  speeches  at  Birmingham, 
204 ;  at  El  Teb,  216  ;  at  Wady 
Haifa,  262 ;  at  Dal,  264 ;  his 
last  letter,  266  ;  at  Abou  Klea, 
271 ;  killed,  289  ;  Bibliography 
appendix,  i.  ;  memorials  to,  ap- 
pendix, viii. 

Burnaby    (Mrs.    Fred),    158;    her 
book,  The  High  Alps  in   Winter, 

198  ;  Burnaby's  letters  to  her, 
262  to  266  ;  her  works,  308  ;  and 
appendix,  ii. 

Burnaby  (Harry),  173,  228,  261. 
Burnaby  (May),  2,  20,  309. 
Burnand  (Sir  Francis),  200. 


Calthorpe  (Lord),  148. 
Carlos  (Don),  67,  69,  308. 
Chamberlain    (Mr.    Joseph),    154, 

159,  204,  244,  307/ 
Churchill  (Lord  Randolph) ,  209 ; 

his   letter  to  Mr.   J.   B.   Stone, 

2ii ;    at    Birmingham,    236;    in 

America,  256. 
Cockle's  Pills,  192. 
"  Cocky,"  47. 

Colvile  (Sir  Henry),  109,  309. 
Cook  (Mr.  J.  M  ),  263. 
County  Hunt,  The,  16. 
Coxwell  (Mr.  Henry),  29,  175. 


Daily  Chronicle,  296. 

Daily  News,  33,  193,  296. 

Daily  Telegraph,  35,  181,   191,  296, 

Dart,  The,  153;  Cartoons  from,  159, 
163.  169,  171,  189,  225,  237,  241, 
245.  283. 

Devil  Worshippers,  126. 

Dundonald     (Lord),    285,     293, 
jog. 

Durouf  (Monsieur),  174. 


El  Teb,  1st  battle,  215. 
El  Teb,  2nd  battle.  221. 


Frf.win  (Mr.),  39,  41. 


Garden  of  Eden,  125. 

Gipsy  Dance,  A,  122. 

Gladstone  (Mr.  W.  G.),  153,  235. 

Glaisher  (Mr.  James),  29. 

Godard  (M.  Jean),  30. 

Godfrey  (Rev.  N.  S.)  12. 

Gordon,  85,  230. 

Graham  (General)  222. 

Greening   (Mr.   W.  H.),  153,  165, 

309- 
Graphic,  273. 


Hughes  (Mr.  J.    Percival),   253, 
261. 


Ilbert  Bill,  206. 

Illustrated  London  News,  275,  294. 


Judy,  on  Burnaby,  192. 


Leicester,     Burnaby    at,    164, 

234 

Letters  (Burnaby's)  :  to  his  sister 
Annie,  130  ;  Birmingham  Daily 
Gazette,  147,  168 ;  Birmingham 
Post,  147  ;  Mr.  Buckley,  243  ; 
Mrs.  Burnaby,  262  to  267  ;  his 
brother  Evelyn,  67  ;  his  father, 
20,  25,  26,  59,  60  ,  Morning  Post 
59;  his  mother,  125;  his  rela- 
tions, 81,  141,  197  ;  Messrs. 
Sampson  Low  &  Co.,  256; 
Stafford  House  Committee,  134  ; 
Times,  59,  81  ;  Vanity  Fair,  48, 
56,  147:  Mr.  Wright,  76,  80, 
in,  180,  193,   194. 

Levy  (Mr.  Lawrence),  35. 

Livius  (Mr.  G.  P.),  6. 

Lucy  (Mr.  W.  H),  rog,  200. 


Mahiii,  The,  230,  294. 

Marling    (Lieut.     Percival),    271, 

293 

Mohammed,  123. 

Morning  Post,  59,  Go,  187,  294. 

Murray  (George),  of  the  Scots 
Greys,  Preface  xii.,  272,  por- 
trait 295. 

Murray  (Thomas),  .'85,  294. 


LIFE  OF  COLONEL  BURNABY 


Nadar  (Monsieur),  29 
Nutt  (Mr.  Alfred),  19. 
Nutt  (Rev.  Robert),  19,  213. 
Nutt  (Mr.  Henry),  19. 
Nutt  (Rev.  W.  Y.),  19,  213. 


Old  Age  Pensions,  127. 

Osman,  116. 

Owl,  The,  153,  158  ;  Cartoons  from, 

158. 


Page  (Mrs.),  12. 

Payne  (Corporal  J.  R.),  285. 

Payne    (Mr.    John),     Sonnet     to 

Burnaby,  xxiv. 
Powell   (Mr.    Walter),    17-1,    175, 

death  of,  176. 
Preston,  Burnaby  at,  206, 
Primrose    League,    Founding   of, 

209. 
Prince  of  Wales   (King  Edward 

VII.),  36,  6i,  158,  appendix  via 
Prior  (Mr.  Melton),  223,  224,  236, 

285. 
Pritchard  (Mr.  Joseph),  262,  267. 
Prowse(Mr.  J.  W.),  31. 
Punch  on  Burnaby,   192,  231,  307. 


Radford  (George),  64,  70,  73, 
his  marvellous  escape  74,  with 
Burnaby  in  Asia  Minor  115, 
dies  142,  visit  to  his  grave  181. 

Rose  (Mr.  Robert),  7,  26. 

Rose  (Miss  Emma)  8,  15. 

Rowlands  (Mr.  Joseph),  236,  239, 

245.  3°9- 

Sampson   Low  &  Co.,    131,    188, 

256. 
Sawyer  (Sir  James),  249 
Schnadhorst  (Mr.  F.),  189. 
Schwalbach,  45. 
Simmons  (Mr.  Joseph),  177. 
Somerby,  2,    15;    who   stole   the 

bell?  41;  Burnaby's  last  days 

at,  248. 


Sparkbrook  Club,  154. 

Stone  (Sir  Benjamin),  147,  158  ; 
his  letter  respecting  the  Prim- 
rose League,  209,  309. 

Stone  (Lady),  158.  309. 

Sly  (Mrs.),  248,  251. 

Spencer   (Mr.  Percival),  76,  310. 

Standard,  73,  294. 

Storey  (Henry),  180;  his  miracu- 
lous escape  at  El  Teb,  218,  310. 

Strathnairn  (Lord),  61,  62. 


Tashkesen,  Battle  of,  135. 
Telegram  trouble,  187. 
Templer  (Captain),  76,  176,   195. 
Times,  The,  Letters  to,  59,  7°.  *37- 
Tinwell,  19. 


Vanity  Fair,  47,  106. 


Westcar,  (Lieutenant),  33,  45. 

Whitshed  (Lady),  261. 

Wolfe  (Sir  H.  D.),  209,  212. 

Wolverhampton,  Burnaby  at,  163. 

Wolseley  (Lord),  297. 

Wright  (Mr.  Thomas),  the  aero- 
naut ;  Burnaby  writes  to  him, 
75  ;  his  first  ascent,  76  ;  lends 
Burnaby  his  balloons,  79,  109  ; 
his  anchor,  in  ;  ascends  with 
Burnaby,  in,  173;  wins  race 
in  the  Owl,  174  ;  his  race  with 
M.  de  Fonvielle,  175  ;  ascends 
with  Mr.  Walter  Powell,  175  ; 
Captain  Templer's  letter  to 
him,  176  ;  with  Burnaby  at 
Dover,  180,  186  ;  looks  over 
Burnaby's  book,  188  ;  ascends 
at  Bedford  193,  196  ;  nis  bal~ 
loon  The  Gem,  204  ;  in  retire- 
ment, 310. 


Yellow  Jug,  284. 


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