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LIFE OF A

PIONEER

BEING THE

AUTOBIOGRAPHY

OF

James S. Brown.

338??

SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH:

GEO. Q. CANNON & SONS CO., Printers.
1900.

■ -

PREFACE.

THE life of a pioneer in Western America always is
full of peril and hardship; often it has a large share
of startling episodes and thrilling adventures; not infre-
quently it is associated with notable historic events; and
the experiences met with develop independence of charac-
ter, firmness of purpose, and, in those whose spiritual nature
is not dwarfed by unworthy conduct, a sublime faith in God
that when man puts forth his highest endeavor all things
beyond the scope of his efforts are ordered for the best by
the Great Ruler of the universe. When to the pioneer's
experiences are added those that come from travel in for-
eign lands, perils of the sea, and the hostility of warlike
foes, the narrative of such a life cannot fail to be alike
profitable and interesting reading to both young and old.

The subject of the autobiographical sketch in this vol-
ume feels that he is not presumptuous in saying that each
class of experience named in relation to the pioneer and the
traveler has been his. The perils and hardships of the
pioneers in whose wo^k he commingled have been the
theme of song and story for half a century; the thrilling
and adventurous character of his experiences as frontiers-
man and Indian interpreter were of a kind notable even in
those avocations; his association with historic events of
moment includes the period when the territorial area of the
great Republic was almost doubled by the acquisition of the
Pacific slope and the Rocky Mountain region, and when
the great gold discovery in California was made, since he
was a member of the famous Mormon Battalion and also
was present at the rinding of gold in California, being the
first man to declare — on tests made by himself — that the
little yellow flakes were the precious metal; and his reliance

IV PREFACE.

on Deity is portrayed in his missionary work at home and
in foreign lands, with civilized people and r^aong savages,
often in circumstances when life itself apparently was forfeit
to duty conscientiously performed.

In the following pages there is no claim to transcend-
ent literary merit. Yet the writer feels that the narrative
is presented in the plain and simple language of the people,
with a clearness and force of expression that will be pleas-
ing and impressive to every reader possessed of ordinary
or of superior educational attainments; while the very sim-
plicity and directness of the language used, far from em-
bellishing the events described, prove an invaluable guide
in securing accuracy, that not an incident shall be over-
drawn or given undue importance.

The purpose of the writer has been to relate the story
of his life, for the benefit and entertainment of his children
and friends, and of all others who may read it, and to do
so with a strict regard for veracity; for he feels that the
numerous thrilling and sensational incidents in his life were
sufficiently exciting to bear a toning down that comes from
calm contemplation when the agitation of the immediate
occurrence has passed, rather than to need the coloring of
a graphic pen. In such a presentation, too, he feels that
the result of his labors in this respect will be a further step
in carrying out that which has been the leading purpose of
his life, namely, to do good to all mankind, to the glory of
God.

With a fervent desire and firm confidence that every
worth}' aim in presenting this autobiography shall be
achieved, and shall find a vigorous and ennobling response
in the hearts of those who read it, the leading events of his
life, and the narration thereof, are respectfully submitted to
his family and friends by

The Author.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

lome of the Author— A Career of Thrilling Experiences— His Birth and
Parentage— Early Avocations— Migration from North Carolina to Illi-
nois—Life on the Frontier— Dangers to Early Settlers — A Frontiersman-
Father's Advice— More Settlers Come— Churches and Schools— Limited
Opportunities— Frozen Feet— Unimpressionable to the Preaching of the
Time — Talk of a New Religion, Prophets, Miracles, etc. — Presecutlon of
the New Church— "Showers of Stars"— Popular Adverse Views of the Mor-
mons—The Mormons Driven from Missouri into Illinois— Mormon Elder
Comes to Preach— Converts Uncle James Brown— Preaches Again— Prep-
arations to Mob the Elder— His Scriptural Doctrine Disconcerts Enemies
and Secures him Friends— His Discourse — Effect on Young James S.
Brown of the First Gospel Sermon to him— His Testimony to the Spirit
and Truth of the Elder's Message 9

CHAPTER II.

Persecuted by Playmates— Give Them an Effective Check— Fight with Wild
Beasts— Parents Join the Mormons— The Author Holds Back— Assassina-
tion of Joseph and Hyrurn Smith — Mormons Leave Illinois for the West —
Exciting Times— My Winter's Work— Father Decides to Wait a While Be-
fore Leaving Illinois — My Determination to go with the Mormons— Con-
fide a Secret to my Mother — A New Consultation— Change in the Family
Plans— Father Prepares to Start— Gives me Permission to Go— Thinks of
Leaving me Because of My Illness— I Feel to Prefer Death to Being Left
Behind 15

CHAPTER III.

Start for Nauvoo— Taken Severely 111— The Lord Answers my Prayer for Re-
lief—Pass through Carthage— In Nauvoo "The Beautiful," but Almost
Deserted City— Scene on the Iowa Shore— Cross the Mississippi— Curious
Make-up of the Exiles' Teams— The Bad Roads— Stuck in the Mud— Re-
pairing Camps— Good Order Maintained — Unnecessary Killing of Game
Forbidden— Reach Grand River and Put in a Crop— Learn of the Call for
the Mormon Battalion— Apostles as Recruiting Officers— Call for Volun-
teers—Response by the Camp— Received into the Church by Baptism —
Filled with the Love of the Gospel— Get the Spirit to Enlist— Consult my
Relatives and Ezra T. Benson— An Elder's Promise— Join the Mormon
Battalion 20

CHAPTER IV.

Start for the Battalion Rendezvous— A Journey of Hardship— In the Mor-
mons' Camp on Missouri River — First Experiences in the Army — Blessed
by Apostles— Prophetic Address by President Brigham Young— The Bat-
talion starts on its Long Journey— Doing Camp Duty— Heavy Storms and
Insufficient Rations— Hard Experiences— At Fort Leavenworth— Mexican
Mules as a Cure for Egotism— Colonel Allen Taken 111 -On the Santa Fe
Road— Suffering from Thirst— Sickness among the Troops— Dr. G. B.
Sanderson, a Tyrannical Quack— Army Merchants— Order of Marching. 25

CHAPTER V.

Crossing of the Kaw River— Indian Farmers— Fierce storm on Stone Coal
Creek— Crossing a Creek with Precipitous Banks— Ruins of an Ancient
City— Wagonload of Sick Upset in a Stream— sad News of Col. Allen's

VI CONTENTS.

Death— Dispute over His Successor— Military Rules Disregarded in Set-
tling the Question— Troops Dissatisfied— Sickness in Camp— Harshness of
the New Commander, Lieutenant Colonel Smith— Brutality of the Doctor
—Doses of Objectionable Medicine in an Old Iron Spoon— In the Coman-
che Indian Country— Abuse from Lieutenant Colonel Smith— Scarcity of
Fuel— Buffalo Chips— Cooking Food under Great Difficulties— Increase
of Sickness— Up the Grand Valley of the Arkansas -Detachment of Sick-
Sent to Pueblo— Mirages— Herds of Buffalo -On the Sick List— Reach the
Rocky Mountains— Prehistoric Ruins— In Mexican Villages— Arrival at
Santa Fe 32

CHAPTER VI.

Exemplary Conduct of the Mormon Troops— Lieutenant Colonel P. St.George
Cooke Arrives and Assumes Command— A Welome Change— Another
Detachment of Sick, also the Laundresses, Sent to Pueblo— Selecting Men
to Continue the Journey to California— Reducing the Baggage— Difficul-
ties of the 1,100 Miles Journey Ahead- Poor Equipment Therefor— Leave
Santa Fe- Roads of Heavy Sand— On One-third Rations -Hardships In-
crease-Galled F'eet and Gnawing Stomachs- More Sick Men for Pueblo-
Leaving the Last Wagons-Mules and Oxen in a Pack Train— In an Un-
known Country— Hunting a Pass over the Mountains— Alarm of an
Enemy— A Beaver Dam— Crossing the Rio Grande Del Norte- Great
Suffering Among the Troops 40

CHAPTER VII.

Pushing to the AVest— Overhearing a Conversation with Col. Cooke— The
Colonel Fears the Men Will Starve— No Berries, not even Bark of Trees,
for Food— True State of Affairs as to the Outlook Kept from Most of the
Troops— Hides, Intestines, and even Soft Fdges of Hoofs and Horns of
Animals Eaten— "Bird's Eye Soup."— In a Snowstorm— Relics of Ancient
Inhabitants— camp without Water— Old Silver and Copper Mines— Hard-
est Day of the Journey— Men Appear as If Stricken with Death— The
Writer so 111 as to be Unable to Travel Longer, and Expects to Die— Uncle
Alexander Stephens Comes with Water and Revives Him- Awful buffer-
ing in Camp— Reported Sick Next Morning -Brutal Dr. Sanderson Gives
a Deadly Dose of Laudanum, but the Writer Vomits it After Being Made
Fearfully Mck - In Terrible Distress for Days -Healed by the Laying on
of Hands of the Elders of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day
Saints 47

CHAPTER VIII.

On the Summit of the Rocky Mountains— Crossing the Backbone of the North
American Continent— Review of the Journey -Graves Opened by Wolves
—Mutilated Bodies -An Unparalleled Journey of Hardship— The Pros-
pect Ahead-A Matter of Life and Death— Start Down the » aciflc Slope
— Descending the Cliffs with Wagons-One Vehicle Mips and is reduced
to Kindling Wood and Scrap Iron— Into a New Climate-Change in the
Character of Vegetation— Wild Horses and Cattle -Attacked by Wild
Cattle -Several Men Hurt and one Mule Gored to Death -A Number of
Cattle Killed— Suppy of Beef- Reach the San Pedro Kiver— Traveling
Through a Heavy Growth of Mesquit and Chapparal— Approach the
Mexican Garrisoned Town of Tucson— News of Approach of a Large
American Army Sent to the Mexicans -Order Issued by Colonel Cooke. 52

CHAPTER IX.

On the Trail to Tucson— Excitement in the Town -Meet Mexican Soldiers -
Our Numbers Overrated by the Indians— Mexican Commander under
Orders to Oppose us— Colonel Cooke Announces his Wish to I'asson
Without Hostilities— arrest of corporal Cassaduran, Son of the Mexican
Commander at Tucson, and Other Mexicans who are Held as Hostages
for the Return of our Interpreter— '1 he Interpreter is Liberated— An
Armistice Proposed— Surrender of Tucson Demanded— Mexican Prison-
ers Released— Surrender is Refused -Colonel Cooke Orders the Battalion
to Prepare for Battle- Advance toward the Town-Flight of the Mexi-
cans— .it the Gates of Tucson- Our Line of Battle -Address by olonel
Cooke— We Enter the Town, and Pass Through to Camp— Purchases of
Wheat, Corn, etc.— The Battalion nearly Starved-Night Alarm of a
Mexican Attack -Difficulties of Getting into Line- No Enemy In Sight—

CONTENTS. Vlt

Start Across the Gila Desert— Agony on the Burning Sands and Alkali
Flats— Strengthened by the Divine Blessing— Reach the Gila River 58

CHAPTER X.

On the Gila River— Pima Indian Village— Welcome Gifts from the Pimas—
Among the Maricopa Indians— Asleep on the Trail — Visit from a Bear-
Loss of Provisions Through an Attempt to Float a Quantity Down the Gila
— Hard Traveling — Crossing the Colorado River— Gloom in the Camp —
Lower and Upper California — Terrible March over the Tierra Caliente, or
Hot Lands — Digging Wells for Brackish Water — Advance Guard Reach a
Mountain Spring— Water Carried back to Revive the Fainting Troops-
Last Spoonful of Flour Used— Dividing the Rations— In the Canyons of
the Sierra Nevada — Hewing Roads ihrough Hocks and Brush — Feeding
on Live Acorns and Green Mustard — News of Victories by United States
Troops in California — Preparing to Engage the Retiring Mexican Army —
First House Seen in California — Beef Without Salt — Trade for Acorn
Mush— Heavy Storm and B'lood in Camp — a Few Pounds of Flour se-
cured— Dancing in Mud and Water — Receive Orders to go to Los Angeles —
Discover a Body of Troops in Line of Battle— Advance to the Attack-
Supposed Foe Proves to be Friendly Indians — Presence of the Mormon
Battalion Prevents an Intended Attempt by Mexicans to Retake Cali-
fornia, also an Uprising of Californians Against the United States — On a
Battlefield Where General Kearney had Fought- Relics of the Encounter
—Prophecy of President Brigham Young and its Fulfillment— source of
His Inspiration 65

CHAPTER XL

Ordered to San Diego— First View of the Pacific Ocean— Rumors of the Ene-
my—Complimentary Order, by Lieut. i;ol. Cooke, on the Achievements
of the Mormon Battalion -Reported Hostility of Col. Fremont to Gen.
Kearney— Living on Beef Alone— Obtain some Flour— Routine of the
Camp -Ordered to Los Angeles— Damage by an Earthquake — Wild Horses
and Cattle Driven into the Sea — Arrival at Los Angeles— Rumors of an
Attack- Constructing a Fort-Guarding Cajon Pass— surrounded by Wild
Cattle— Take Refuge in a Ravine— Col. Fremont Arrested— Site of San
Bernardino -Getting out a Liberty Pole— Brush with the Indians— Clear-
ing I.os Angeles of Dogs— Wickedness in the Town— Brutality of Bull
Fights, Horse Racing, etc. — Always Ready for an Attack — First Raising
of the Stars and Stripes on a Liberty Pole in California 75

CHAPTER XII.

Term of Enlistment Expires— Battalion Members Preparing to Return to
their Families— One Company Ke-enlists— An Insolent Spaniard— Pistol
Snapped in the Writer's Face— vlmost a Deathblow— Desperate Fight
Stopped by Bystanders— Serious Trouble with Another Spaniard— Learn
the Lesson to Avoid those who Gamble or Drink Intoxicants— Spanish
Character— Class of California's Inhabitants in 1847— Condition of the
Country— Appearance of the Towns and Villages— Difficulty in Securing
an Outfit for Members of the Battalion to Journey Eastward 86

CHAPTER XIII.

Mormon Battalion Mustered out of Service-One Hundred and Fifty Mem-
bers Organize to Return East to the Rocky Mountains— Start on the
Journey -DifBculties of the Route— Dealing with Wild Horses and Cattle
Stampede of a Pack Animal -Chase into an Indian Camp -Lost All
Night in a Swamp— Suffering on the Desert for Lack of Water Arrive
Near Sutter's Fort -On the Site of Sacramento Party Decide to Remain
Over for the Year, and Obtain Employment -Meet Captain J. A. Sutter
and James W. Marshall -Proposition to Capt. Sutter— Engaged to Work
on a Sawmill— Proceedings at the Millsite— Mill Started Up The Writer
Engaged to Direct Indians Laboring at the Tail Race Conversation with
Mr. Marshall— Marshall Talks About Finding Gold — He and the Writer
make a Search for Gold, but Finding None, Defer the Investigation till
Next Morning— Marshall's Faith in his Being Successful in Discovering
the Precious Metal 91

CHAPTER XIV.

Arrival of the Members of Mormon Battalion at Sutter's Fort Opens the Way
for the Discovery of Gold in California— James W. Marshall out Early on

VIII CONTENTS.

January 24, 1S48 — "He is Going to Find a Gold Mine" — Regarded as a "No-
tional" Man — "Boys, I have got Her Now!" — Testing the Scales of Metal
— "Gold, Boys, Gold!" — First Proclamation of the Great Gold Discovery
— Second and Third Tests — All Excitement — Three or Four Ounces of
Gold Gathered — Agree to Keep the Discovery Secret — Find the Precious
Metal Farther Down the Stream — How the Secret Leaked out — More Dis-
coveries— First Publication of the News made in a *iormon Paper —
Washing out the Metal— First Gold Rocker — Gathering Gold — Part taken
by Mr. Marshall, the Mormons and capt. Sutter in the Discovery — Mis-
fortunes of Sutter and Marshall — Account of the Gold Discovery Certified
to by Several Eye Witnesses 98

CHAPTER XV.

Prepare to Leave California — Snow in the Mountains Causes a Wait till the
Last of June — Discover a Rich Gold Prospect — Leave it to Make the
Journey over the Mountains — No Regrets at Abandoning the Mines in
Answer to a Call of Duty — Camp Organized in Pleasant Valley — Start on
the Trip— Three Members of the Party Ahead, Looking out the Route,
Found Murdered by Indians at Tragedy Springs — Covering the Bodies —
Stampede of Animals — Guarding Against Hostile Indians — Crossing the
Divide in Snow — The Writer Fooled — Take Two Indians Prisoners — Cut-
ting a Road — Horses Stolen by Indians — Pursuit to Capture them — In
Carson Valley — Along Humboldt River — At Steamboat Springs — Over the
Desert — Member of the Party Wants to Kill Indians — The Writer's Em-
phatic Objection — Indians Wound Stock— Addison Pratt as a Lucky Fish-
erman—Writer Trades with an Indian — The Red Man's Trick— Writer
Pursues him into the Indian Camp— Escape from Danger— Journey to
Bear River— Hot and Cold Water Springs— Reach Box Elder— View the
Great Salt Lake -Arrive at Ogden, where Captain Brown and some
Saints had Settled— Journey to the Mormon Camp on what is now Pio-
neer Square, Salt Lake City— Heartily Welcomed by Relatives and
Friends— Rejoicing and Thanksgiving 107

CHATER XVI.

Contentment Among the Saints in Great Salt Lake Valley— Rude Dwellings
and Short Rations— Trying Experiences-^Rescue of Mormon Battalion
Members from Starvation— Carry News of California Gold Discovery to
the East— Re-union of Mormon Battalion Members— Addresses by the
First Presidency and Others— Settling a New Country— Organization of
Minute Men— Cold Winter— The Gold Fever— Tenor of the Preaching and
Prophesy ings of those Times— Instructing the People in Industrial Pur-
suits—Policy Towards the Indians 117

CHAPTER XVTI.

Scarcity of Food in the Great Salt Lake Valley— Wild Vegetables for Greens
—Fair Prospects for Crops— Clouds of Crickets lay Bare the Fields— Peo-
ple Struggle Against the Pests Almost to Despair— Vast Flocks of Sea
Gulls, as the Clouds of Heaven, Come to the Rescue— Destruction of the
Crickets— People Praise the Lord— The Writer Invited to a Meeting, Or-
dained a Seventy, and Called with Others to go on a Mission to the Soci-
ety Islands— Words of Presidents Brigham Young and Heber C. Kimball
—Preparations to Travel to California with an Emigrant Company— De-
scription of the Route by Captain Jefferson Hunt— Start on My Mission-
Prophecy by President Willard Richards -Battle with Indians at Provo
Averted by Apostle C. C. Rich— Prospects of Utah Valley to Support Pop-
ulation—Overtake the Emigrant Company— Discussions at Beaver River
—Company starts for Walker's Pass— Turned Back by Scarcity of Water-
Experience on the Desert— Dissensions in the Company— Futile At-
tempt to send some of the Members Back— Apostle C. C. Rich Foresees
Further Trouble, and Endeavors to Save the Mormon Part of the Train
by Advising Them to Return to the Old Spanish Trail— Methodist and
Campbellite Ministers Incite the Company Against their Mormon Guide,
Captain Hunt— Main Company Disregards Captain Hunt's Warning of
Danger, and Leaves the Old Spanish Trail to Search for the Route
Through Walker's Pass — Mormons go with Captain Hunt on the
Southern Route 127

CHAPTER XVTII.

Caught in a Snowstorm— Via the Santa Clara and Rio Virgen to the Muddy
—News of Sad Disaster to the Emigrant Company— Making Charcoal and

CONTENTS. IX

Nails— An Apostle as a Blacksmith— Searching for Water on the Desert—
Orosslng an Alkali Stream— Discover Gold near Salt Springs— Hurrying
on over the Desert— Cattle Poisoned at Hitter Springs— Killing Animals
to Relieve their Sufferings— First Wagon over Cajoh I'ass, going West-
Severe Journey to the Summit of the Pass— Ail get Over safely— Sense of
Great Relief— Grass and Water in Abundance— Overtaken by Survivors
of the Emigrant Company— Their Story of Terrible suffering— Divide
Provisions with Them — Celebrating Christmas, 1849 — Continuing the
Journey North— Spanish Warning in a Cemetery to Indians— Cruelty of
the Spaniards to the Indians— The Writer Placed in Charge of the Com-
pany—Directed to go to the Gold Mines 137

CHAPTER XIX.

Journeying Toward the Gold Diggings— Threatened by Wild Horses— Diffi-
culties of Traveling— Convocation of the Feathered Creation— Rejoin
Our Friends— Ferrying Across a River— Strike a Gold Prospect — On a
Prospecting Tour— An Agreement that Failed— Instructed to go to San
Francisco to Proceed on a Mission— Trip to Stockton— Gamblers, Sharp-
ers and Miners at that Place — A Temptation Overcome — Arrive in San
Francisco— Welcomed by Saints— Receive Kind Treatment- -On Board a
Vessel Bound for Tahiti 114

CHAPTER XX.

Sailing for the South Pacific— Severe Attack of Seasickness— Becalmed in
the Tropics— Intense Heat— Marquesas Islands— Cannibals— Reach Tahiti
—Land at Papeete— Meet with Friends— Hearty Welcome— Preaching to
the Natives— Animosity of Protestants and Catholics Toward the Mor-
mons—Jealousy of French Government Officials on the Island— Watched
by Detectives— Six Natives Baptized— Learning the Language— Rumors
of an Intention to Expel the Mormons— Elders B. F. Grouard and T.
Whitaker Arrested— Appeal for Aid— Their Release and Return to
their Missionary Labors-Meet with Brother Pratt Again— Interview
with the Governor— That Official Refuses Elders Pratt and Brown Per-
mission to Visit Another Island— Scarcity of Food at Huaua— Eating
Seasnails and Bugs— Strange Dishes of Food— Almost Perish from Thirst
- Visit to Tiarara— Acquiring the Language 152

CHAPTER XXI.

Offer of Transportation to the Island of Tubuoi— Apply to the Governor
for Permission to go— Troops on Parade— Suite of Queen Pomere— Call
on the Governor— Conversation in Three Languages— Directed to
Come Again Next Day— Put off by the Governor— Latter Refuses the
Permission Asked — His Prejudice Against the Mormons — Demands a
Statement of Their Doctrines— Not Required of Other Denominations-
Writer's Interview with the Governor— Return to Huaua— Other Elders
Requested to Assemble there— Bitterness of Protestant Ministers — Na-
tives Comment on Mormons Learning Their Language Quickly 161

CHAPTER XXII.

Visit to Papeete— Duck-Hunting Trip— A Peculiar AVoman— Along a Perilous
Path— An Opinion of English Ministers— Arrival of S. A. Dunn— Learn
of More Missionaries Arriving at Tubuoi — News from my Father and
Others — Letters from the First Presidency and Some of the Apostles-
Written Statement Sent to the Governor of Tahiti— Visit the Governor—
Our Statement Rejected— List of Questions and Statement Presented by
the Governor— Reply of Elder A. Pratt— Objections by the Governor -
Permission given us to Travel and Preach on the Islands 166

CHAPTER XXIII.

Return to Huahua— Heavy Rainstorms— Refusal of an Offer to be Carried
Over a Stream— Perilous Swimming Feat— Episode with a Wild Boar-
Start on a Trip Around the Island— Obtain a Loaf of Bread— People not
Desirous of Listening to the Mormon Elders— Customs of the Natives-
Reputation of Protestant Clergy on Tahiti— With the Chief Magistrate of
Uairai — Across a Small Bay in a Canoe — French Garrison at the Isthmus
—With my Friend Pohe— Review of a Hard Journey— Again at Huaua 175

CHAPTER XXIV.

Scarcity of Food— Traveling in Heavy Rains— Call on a Protestant Minister-
Arrival of Another Missionary and Letters from Home— Visitors from

X CONTENTS.

Metia— Hold a Sacrament Meeting— Go to Pa para— Atmsed by the Protes-
tant Minister— Preach to the People— Young Woman Miraculously
Healed at Baptism— Great Excitement— Rage of the Protestant Ministers
— Persecution Instituted — Arrested for Preaching— Released on Promis-
ing to Return to Huaua— Plenty of Friends— Unintentional Escape from
Gen d" Amies — Arrival at Papeete — Charge on which Officers seek to Ar-
rest me— Abused by Rev. Mr. Howe— A (julet Answer Calls out Cheers from
the Crowd— Tide Turns in my Favor— Excitement Calms Down, and
Efforts to Arrest Me Cease 183

CHAPTER XXV.

Several Baptisms— Visit Papara Again— Coldness of the People— Bitter
Efforts of the Protestant Ministers— Natives Visit Me in Secret— Anti-
Mormon Mass Meeting— Foolish and Vicious Scheme to Ensnare the
Writer— It is Easily Defeated— Return to Papeete— More Baptisms— De-
parture of Elder Dunn— I am left Alone— Brethren Come from Tubuoi—
Elders Appointed to Labor in Different Islands— The Writer Assigned to
the Tuamotu Croup— Leave on the Elders' Schooner the Ravai or Fisher
—Meet with Contrary Winds— Driven to Various Islands— Encounter a
Violent Storm— In Great Peril— Vessel Beyond Control— Storm Calms
Down— Reach Tubuoi— First Preaching of the Gospel there, in 1844 193

CHAPTER XXVI.

Hearty Welcome in Tubuoi— Start for Tuamotu— Reach Papeete, Tahiti—
. Visit to Huaua— Leave Tahiti— Writer gets Relief from Seasickness-
Broiled Fish and Cocoanuts— In a School of Whales— Thrown onto a Cor-
al Reef— Total Wreck Imminent— Three Persons get Ashore— Boat goes
out to Sea— Wreck of Elder Dunn's Party— Three Days in the Sea, Cling-
ing to a Capsized Boat— Clothing Torn off by Sharks— Skin Taken off by
the Sea and Sun— Reach the Island of Anaa— Recognized by a Man who
had seen me in a Dream— Preaching and Baptizing — Many of the Natives
church Members— Make a Rude Map of the California Gold Fields— Tell
of Having been in the Mormon Battalion— Catholic Priests Elicit this In-
formation as Part of a Scheme to have me Expelled from the Island 201

CHAPTER XXVII.

Invited to Organize Schools— Catholic Priests Displeased at Mormon Success
—Good Attendance at the Schools— Threats by the Priests— Discomflture
of the Latter— Feast and Address of Welcome by the Natives to the
Writer— Preaching and Baptisms— Catholic Priests seize a Schoolhouse
Belonging to the Saints— Disturb a Saints' Meeting— More Baptisms-
Further Annoyance by Catholics— People Decide Against Them— Town
Officials Appealed to— They Uphold the Decision in Favor of the Mor-
mons—Priests Write to Governor Bonard, Making False Charges Against
me— A Peculiar Dream 206

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Goto Temaraia— Miraculous Healings— Child Assailed by an Evil Spirit-
Strange Occurrence — Gift of Sea Biscuits — Perform a Surgical Opera-
tion—Hammering out Teeth — The Writer as a Surgeon and Dentist —
Roughs Disturb a" Meeting— They are Stricken with Death— Fatal Sick-
ness among the People — Lower Classes of Natives at a Feast — Their Rev-
erence for Religious services and Preachers--Two Parties of Natives in
Battle Array— Fighting Averted by the Writer Addressing the Contend-
ing Factions in Favor of Peace— Wars among the Natives — Some of their
Practices— Gathering and Keeping Human Heads— Causes of Cannibal-
ism—Conversation with one who had been a Cannibal— Flavor of Native
and White Men's Flesh Compared— The Tastiest Part of the Human
Body 214

CHAPTER XXIX.

Hold Conference in Putuhara— Instructions to the Saints — Go to Otapipi—
Opposition at Temaraia— Officials Bribed by Catholic Priests— Arrival of
a French Warship— The Writer is Arrested while Expounding the Scrip-
tures to the Natives— Cause of Arrest is False Accusation by Catholic
Priests— I Plead Not Guilty— Ordered Taken to Tahiti— Painful Prison
Experience— Cannibals in Custody— Start for the Ship— Sympathy of the

CONTENTS. XI

Natives— Hurried into the Ship's Boat— In a School of Whales— A Fright-
ened Boat Load— On Board the Warship— Uncomfortable Quarters-
Questionable French Courtesy— Among Cockroaches, Filth, and Incon-
veniences—Soft Side of a Plank for a Bed 223

CHAPTER XXX.

Voyage to Papeete— In a Tahitian Dungeon— Cruel Treatment— Write to
Friends— Kindness of the American Hotel Keeper— Brought Before the
Governor— False Charges Read, and Plea of Not Guilty Entered— Per-
jured Testimony Against me— Forbidden to Look at, or even Cross-Ex-
amine Witnesses— Secrecy of the Alleged Trial— Demand My Bights as
an American Citizen— Confusion of the Governor— Returned to My Cell-
American Consul takes up my Case— Gives Bonds that I will Leave the
Protectorate— Elders and Friends Call on me— My Visitors Allowed to
Say but Little, and Sometimes Excluded— Decision of the Governor that
I must Leave the Society Islands— Fair Trial Refused me— Letter from
the American Consul— Taken to the Consul's Office— Advised to Leave-
Elders Decide that I should go Outside of the French Protectorate— Set
Sail from Papeete 231

CHAPTER XXXI.

Leaving Tahiti under the Order of Banishment— Supply of Provisions Ex-
hausted—Caught in a Calm— Suffering from Lack of Food— Reach Tubuoi
— Go Ashore upon Invitation of the Queen— Sail for Raivavai— Meet Elder
Pratt There— Left Alone on the Island— Savage Character of the Natives
—The Governor a Friend— Visit from House to House— People Generally
Unwilling to Receive the Gospel— Council Decides that I must Leave the
Island or be Killed— A Time of Excitement— Storm Passes for a while-
Baptize Twenty Persons— Noted Chief and the Heiress to the Throne
Join the Church— More Bitterness and Excitement— Two Parties of Na-
tives Meet to Engage in Baltle— Manage to Reconcile Them and Prevent
Bloodshed— Further Threats Against the Mormons— Some Church Mem-
bers feel to Retaliate but are Restrained— Passengers Arrive with False
and Scandalous Stories About the Mormons— Persecution Increases—
The Few Saints on the Island Become Sorrowful and Discouraged— Prot-
estant Ministers Advise Expulsion of the Saints— Renewal of the Faith
and Zeal of the Church Members 238

CHAPTER XXXII.

People Gather at a Feast, and to Decide what to do with the Mormons-
Threats to have Roast Missionary— Saints hold Prayer and Testimony
Meeting— Kept Awake all Night— Council of Natives Decides to Roast and
Eat me— Fire is Built -Men Sent to Drag me to the Council— Promises of
Presidents Brigham Young and Willard Richards Come to my Mind— All
Fear is Banished— Saints and Their Enemies Ordered to Separate— All
but Two Mormons Stand by me— Sublime Courage of a Native and His
Wife— The Charge Against Me -I Appeal to the Bible, but our Enemies
Refuse to be Guided by the Law of God -Notified of the Decision that I am
to be Burned— Spirit of the Lord Rests upon me in Great Power, Inspir-
ing me to Defy our Enemies— Spirit of Confusion Enters Our Foes— They
Quarrel and Fight With Each Other-Difficulty in Restraining Church
Members— Deliverance which the Lord Wrought out for me— I am Allowed
to proceed Unmolested— Meet a Member of the Council which Con-
demned me to Death— His Testimony that a Pillar of Light Descended
from Heaven and Rested on me, Filling them with Fear— No more Anti-
Mormon Councils -Natives show no Disposition to Receive the Gospel 245

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Long time without News from Home— Letter from Elder B. F. Grouard— Re-
leased from my Missionary Labors in the Islands— Little Opportunity to
Leave Raivavai— Natives Build a Schooner— Fast and Pray to Learn
whether I should Sail on the Vessel— The Answer— Sail for Rapia—
Driven Back to Raivavai— Make a New Start-Arrive at Rapia— Ridicu-
lous Idea of the People Concerning a Mormon Elder— I am Forbidden to
go Ashore, on Pain of Death— Feeling is Modified Somewhat, and 1 go
Ashore -Battle Between the Natives— An Old Man (lives me Food— At-
tend a Meeting, get Permission to Speak a Few Words and am Ordered
from the Island- Increase of Sentiment of Toleration— Invited to Supper

XII CONTENTS.

at the Governor's— Strange Custom of Women Waiting on Men— Rather
than Follow it, I Submit to being Called a Heathen 25*2

CHAPTER XXXTV.

Determine to Preach to the People— Refused a House— Hold an Open-Air
Meeting— Strange Congregation— Six Other Meetings— Visit a Native
King-He Commands me to Leave— I do so in Order to Avoid Being Put
to Death— Watermelons and Other Vegetables— Native Tradition of the
Peopling: of the Islands— Visit of a Protestant Minister- Sail for Tahiti—
In a Heavy Storm— Prayers by Frightened Natives— I am Asked to Pray
with them, but Decline to Follow their Methods— Reach the Harbor of
Papeete— American Consul Obtains Permission for me to Land— Go to
Work with a Carpenter— Warned not to be Alone lest I should be Killed
— Watched by Gen d' Armes— Trouble at Anaa, and Arrest of Native
Mormons— These are Brought to Papeete— How they got Letters to me,
and their Replies -My Former Persecutors of Raivavai Come to Me for
Advice, and I Return Good for Evil 260

CHAPTER XXXV.

Watched Closely by Gen d' Armes— Experience when at Prayer— Take Din-
ner with the Rev. Mr. Howe— Dining with a Catholic Bishop— Impatience
of the Governor— Leave Tahiti on the A byssinia— Curiosity of Passengers
and Sailors— Difficulty in Getting out of the Harbor— Hear of More
Trouble at Anaa— Captain's Comment on Mormon Books— A Waterspout
—Crossing the Equator— Encounter a Terrible Storm— A Tidal Wave-
Ship Springs a Leak— Panic on Board— All Hands to the Pumps— Stop-
ping a Leak— Fair Weather Again 267

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Arrive at San Francisco— A AVrecked Ship— The Abyssinia Condemned —
Gathering Wreckage— Drunken Sailors— My Trunk Held for Hospital
Fees— Go Ashore, where all is Changed and Strange— My Dilapidated Ap-
pearance—Seek Guidance of the Lord— Wander Almost in Despair-
Meet an Old Friend— Find a Home— My Trunk Released— Meet Elders Go-
ing on Missions— Well Treated by Saints and Strangers— Providences of
the Lord— Outward P»ound Elders Entrusted Money to me for their
Families — Engage to Carry Mail to Los Angeles — On a Steamer for San
Pedro— Taken Severely 111'. 272

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Become Desperately 111 — Nursed Rack to Consciousness — Kindness of an
Aged Spanish Couple— Belt with Money Entrusted to me Disappears—
Intense Anxietv— Discover the Monev— Great Suffering— Land at San
Pedro— Left on the Beach— Drag Myself to the Shelter of an Old Wall-
Kindness of a Spaniard and His Wife- A Terrible Night— Seek a Passage to
Los Angeles with Freighters— Refusals— Meet a Kind Teamster— Reach
Los Angeles— Dumped on the Street -Find Shelter, but a Chilly Welcome
—Start Next Morning, Sick and Hungry, to Find a New Place— So HI I
have to Lie Down in the Street— Two Friends from San Bernardino— Am
Told that I have the Smallpox— My Friends Give me Money and Start in
Search of a House where I can be Cared for— Failing to Secure a Room,
they Engage the City Marshal to get a Place, and they Leave for San
Bernardino— I wander for Shelter, but Doors are Closed, and People
Avoid me— Lodge in a Doctor's Office while the Doctor is out— Scare the
People by Shouting "Smallpox !"— The Doctor Returns but Leaves me in
Possession 277

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

City Marshal and Doctor Come to Remove me— Taken to a Deserted House,
which had been Used as a Sheepfold— Bedded in Sheep Manure— An In-
dian Nurse who Becomes Frightened— Spanish Nurse Sent to me— In a
Boat with Patient Job— Mv Fever Increases— Attacked by Robbers— Re-
lieved by City Marshal with Posse— Marshal takes the Money I have In my
Care, for Safe Keeping— Spanish Nurse Scared off— Queer Sailor Nurse —
He Drinks Whisky, Sings and Dances— His Thoughtful Care of me — Visit-
ed by my Cousin— Kindness of San Bernardino Saints— Recovering from
my Illness— My Clothing Burned— Heavy Expense Rill Against me -Tell
the City Marshal of my Arrival In California as a United States Soldier In

CONTENTS. XIII

the Mexican War— Kindness of the Marshal — Los Angeles Assumes
the Bill for Medical Attention Given me— Start for San Bernardino— Ex-
hausted on the Journey— Almost Die of Thirst— Relieved by a Party of
Spanish Ladies— Kindness of Spanish Families— Arrive at San Bernardi-
no and Meet Friends and Relatives 282

CHAPTER XXXIX.

Report my Mission— Prepare to Continue the Journey to Utah— Have to
Remain at San Bernardino for a Time— Sickness among the I'eople— In-
stances of Healing by Administration— Engage to Travel with a Pack
Train to salt Lake City— Get a "Bucking Mule"— start on the Journey -
In a Hostile Indian Country— Signs of Danger— Prepare for Trouble-
sudden Appearance of an Indian — Our Party Want to Shoot-I Protest,
and make Friends with the Indian— Other Red Men Appear— Difficulty
of Restraining our Party — I converse with the Indians, who tell of a
Camp of Mormons and Mexicans a short Distance Ahead — How I
Understood the Indians -Discover the Camp Spoken of — Rest a Day
—Move Toward the Santa Clara— Danger Ahead — A Fire Across our
Path— We Dash Through it— Hostile Indians— An Exciting Chase — Meet
Apostles A. M. Lyman and C. C. Rich- Arrive at Cedar City— Stop at
Parowan- Journey North, Preaching en Route— Reach ~alt Lake City
Settle with the People for whom I have Money— Report to President
Young— Preach in the Tabernacle— Released from my Mission— Cost of
my Mission to the Society Islands 291

CHAPTER XL.

Travel on Foot to Ogden— Well Received by Relatives and Friends — Reply
to Inquiries by the People Regarding the Society Islands and the Inhab-
itants Thereof— Called to go to Fort Hall Order Countermanded—
i ailed on a Mission to the Indians— Design of the Mission — Organization
of the Company, and start from salt. Lake City —Hard Work of the Jour-
ney— Attacked by Wolves— Fatal Duel at Fort Bridger— Plans of Desper-
adoes—We go to Smith's Fork — Build a Blockhouse— Arrival of more
Men and Supplies — Threatening Attitude of the Indians — Writer made
Sergeant of the Guard and Quartermaster— Instructions from Elder
Orson Hyde— Life in our new Camp — i old Weather and Wild Beasts —
Learning the Indian Language— Give shelter to Indians— Desperado
Chief Killed by one of his Men — Animals Perish from Cold and Starva-
tion—Terrific Storms and Snowdrifts -Saving our Stock— Shoshone In-
dians Ask for and Receive Assistance— Hunt for Antelope Fails— A Bach-
elor's Dance — Raising a Liberty Pole -Partitioning out Lands — Plowing
and Hianting-Arrival of and Instructions by Elder Orson Hyde— selec-
tions for a Special Mission to the Indians— Organization of Green River
County 300

CHAPTER XLI.

Set Apart by Elder Hyde for our Special Mission— Slessing Conferred on the
Writer— Discontent in Camp— Unity Again Prevails— start on our Jour-
ney—Warned at Green River to go no Farther — Not Deterred from Per-
forming our Mission — Proceed oh our Journey— Futile Chase after Buf-
falo— Scarcity of Water— A Welcome Snow Storm— Reach the Camp of
Washakie, the Shoshone phief— Received with Caution— Tell the Chief
the Object of our Visit — Give him Bread and Sugar— Boiled Buffalo for an
Epicure Indian Powwow Called — Proceedings at the Council — Objec-
tion to one of our Propositions, which we were not Annoyed at — Recit-
al of how Government Agents Sought to supplant Washakie as Chief—
Washakie a Great Orator 313

CHAPTER XLII.

Leave Washakie's Camp for the Other Portion of the Shoshone Tribe— In-
dian Guide Leaves us— Following a Trail — Sight the Other Camp— War
Songs and Dances— Indians Preparing for War — Chief Gives up his
Lodge to us, Warning us of Men in his Camp he Cannot Control — Indian
Braves in War Paint- Surrounded by Fifteen Hundred or Two Thousand
Indians— Learn that L. B. Ryan, a White Desperado Chief, is in Camp,
• and has Sworn Vengeance on Mormons Escape seems Impossible, but
we Trust In God — Retire for the Night— Ryan and Seven Warriors at our
Lodge -Ryan Enters and Demands to know where we are from, and
our Business— He is Told, Threatens us, and Summons his Indian Braves

XIV CONTENTS.

Inside our Lodge— Though the Enemy are two to one, we are Ready
for them— Prepare for a Fight to the Death— Ryan and his Men Leave
the Lodge War Dance Outside —We Conclude to sell our Lives as Dearly
as Possible— War Party Approach the Lodge and Slit it in a Number of
Places, then suddenly Depart- Our Lives being Spared, we Remain in
Camp till Next Day— The Chief Befriends us, Warning us not to Re-
turn the way we Came— Dispute as to the Route of Travel, and how it is
Settled— Satisfied that Ryan Intended to Ambush us— Rainstorm Obliter-
ates our Tracks— Camp in the Rain— On the Alert for an Enemy Shoot
a Buffalo \\ ard and Davis give < hase, while Bullock and I < ontinue on
our Route— Camp at a ash- Bullock Taken very 111— a Terrible Night —
Ward and Davis not Returning by Morning, we Move on— Fear that
Bullock will Die— Discover our Comrades In the Canyon— Being Hungry,
we Overeat— Another Night of Sickness — Emerge from the Canyon —
Press Forward to Green River — Welcomed by Friends— Three of our
Party go on to Fort Supply, and I Remain to meet Chief Washakie 320

CHAPTER XLIII.

Engaged as Interpreter -Class of People at Green River — Appointed
Deputy Sheriff— Drover Threatens to Kill Boatmen Arrest Ordered—
Ride into the Outlaws' Camp— Bluffing the Captain — A Perilous Situation
— Parley with Drovers- Compromise Effected —Dealing with Law-
breakers—"Bill" Hickman as sheriff Swimming Cattle Over Green
River— A Drover's Failure— Writer Employed to get Cattle Over — How
it is done secret of Success — Arrival of Washakie -The Ferryman Of-
fends him— The Angry Indian Swears Vengeance on the White Man -
His Parting Threat- In Peril of an Indian Massacre 333

CHAPTER XLIV.

Consternation at Washakie's Declaration— People Hurry across the River—
The Writer is Asked to Attempt a Reconciliation— Night too Dark to
Travel— Chief Washakie and Braves Appear at Sunrise— The Chief notes
that the People are Terror-Stricken, and Decides that he will be their
Friend— Troublous Exploits of Mountain Men— Sheriff's plan of Arrest-
How the Scheme Worked— Desperadoes Freed by the Court— Chasing an
Offender— Surrounded by his Associates— Coolness and Pluck of the
Sheriff Win— Ready to Return Home— A Trying Experience 340

CHAPTER XLY.

Go to Fort Supply— Start back to Green River and meet O. P. Rockwell at
Fort Bridger— He brings me a Trader's License, also Goods to Trade to
the Indians— Being Late in the season, we Store the Goods, and go to
Salt Lake City— Receive the Approval of Governor Young— Move to Og-
den— Accompany Governor Young as Interpreter— My Horse Stolen—
Called on a Mission to the Shoshones— On going to Salt Lake City, I am
Released— Ordered to take part in Disarming Indians at Ogden — A Diffi-
cult Job - Chase to Mound Fort— Hand-to-hand Struggle with a Power-
ful Savage— Indians Disarmed, but Sullen- Chief's Hrother Offers all his
Possessions for his Gun— Precautions Taken to Feed the Indians that
Winter— Teach the Indian Language in School— Prosper in Business 345

CHAPTER XLVI.

Another Mission to the Indians— Start for the Shoshone Camp-Difficulties
of Travel - Near the Crows and Blackfeet— A Dream gives Warning of
Danger— Discover a Large Hody of Indians— No Opportunity of Escape
—Ride into the Camp of a Hunting and War Party— Meet Chief Washa-
kie- A Day's March - Situation Critical— Hold a Council — Present the Book
of Mormon— All but Washakie Speak Against us and the Book— Awaiting
the Chief's Decision 350

CHAPTER XLVII.

Washakie's Hold Attitude— Tells his Councilors they are Fools -Says the
White Men, who are Wise, have Books— Tells the Tradition of how the '
fndians fell into Darkness- Great Spirit Angry at the Red Man— Ad-
vocates that the Indians live like White People -His Powerful Speech
Gains the Day for us— Shoshone Tradition— We Start Home— A Hungry

CONTENTS. XV

Trip— Return to the Indians, Finding them Sullen— Fourth of July Cele-
bration at Fort supply— Return Home 357

CHAPTER XLVIII.

Affairs at Home— Start for Fort Supply— Illness of myself and Family- Gift
of Healing— Trouble with Indians at Fort Supply— Turbulent Red Men—
I Help one off my Bed— They Persist in Taking or Destroying our Prop-
erty—We Stop them— One Attempts to Kill me— Indians Retire from the
Fort— Almost a Conflict— I Check the White Men from Shooting— Indians
Withdraw— We send to Governor Young for Assistance -Our istock and
Guards Driven in— Indian Agent Appears with Annuities -The Savages
Submit— We Guard Day and Night— Indians more Peaceful— Reinforce-
ments Arrive from the Governor— Matters Quiet Down 363

CHAPTER XLIX.

Start Home from Fort Supply— Camp alone at Needle Rock— Awakened by
my Horse— Surrounded by Wolves- Flash Powder all Night to keep off
the Wild Beasts— Reach Home— Supplies Short— Hardships of a Grass-
hopper Year— Getting my Cattle out of a Canyon— Perils of being Caught
in the Snow— Great Suffering— Breaking a Snow Road— Business Affairs.. 369

CHAPTER L.

Called on a Mission to Deep Creek Indians— Short Time for the Journey —
Prepare for the Trip— Journey in the Desert-Horses Stolen— Travel on
Foot— Saved from Perishing with Thirst— Meet the Indians— Could Un-
derstand and Speak to them— Indian Agent's Offer— I act as Interpreter
- Preach to the Indians— On the Return Trip— Visit Governor Young with
a Delegation of Bannock Indians 374

CHAPTER LI.

Utah Militia Organized— Elected Captain of a Company— Hear of Johnston's
Army— Scouting Party sent out— I am Chosen as Guide— Travel to the
Bear Lake Country— Cold Nights and Little Kood— Complaint in the
Party — Prove that I am Right — Reach Lost Creek — Some of the Men Ob-
ject to Double Guard— A Discovery that Removes all Objections— Strike
the Trail of Horsemen — Prepare for Action — Take a Camp by Sur-
prise— The Men are Friends — Arrive at Ogden — Called to go on an Im-
portant Errand— Tussle with an Indian— Fail in Getting Desired Infor-
mation, and Return to Ogden 379

CHAPTER LII.

Off on Another Scout— Again on Bear River— Dream of Seeing Troops-
Dream Fulfilled— Send word back of Discovery— Five Hundred Cavalry-
men—Heavy Storm— My only Remaining Companion taken 111 — He is
Healed and I am Stricken Down— Camp in the Snow— My Companion,
Expecting me to die, Prepares to take my Body Home— He Returns,
Prays for me and I am Healed— Stricken Down Again I Direct him to
Leave me and Return Home— He Obeys Reluctantly— I Expect to die-
Peculiar Experiences — Four Young Men, sent by my Comrade, come to
my Relief— Journey on— Lighting fire in a Storm— The Young Men Pray
for me, and I am Relieved— Traveling Homeward— Kind Treatment-
Reach Ogden— Act as Sexton— Guard over Spies— Utah Militia Recalled—
Missionary Labors in Weber County 385

CHAPTER LIII.

Mormons Abandon their Homes and Move South— Prepare for the Worst-
Go to Payson— Affairs Reins Settled, Return to Ogden- -Called to go Bast
as a Missionary— Journey across the Plains— Meet my Parents in Iowa-
Preaching and Traveling -My Father's Testimony— Missionary Labors
—Called to Missouri -Sent to bring a Herd of Cattle— Return to my Par-
ents' Home— Bid Farewell to Them— Purchasing Cattle 391

CHAPTER LIV.

Given Charge of a Company to Cross the Plains to Utah— Composition of
the Camp -Start West— Perform Baptisms— Meet a War Party of Sioux

XVI CONTENTS.

Indians— Place where A. W. Babbitt was Killed— Meet More Indians-
How Trouble was Avoided— Camp Life and Duties— Enter Salt Lake Val-
ley—Company Greeted by the Church Authorities— Report to President
Young and am Released— Trade at Camp Floyd— Experience with a Thief
—Go to Work on the Ogden Canyon Road— Hardships Endured 397

CHAPTER LV.

Called on a Mission to Great Britain— Prepare to Depart— Start Without
Purse or Scrip— Journey to Salt Lake City— Set Apart for the Mission
— Begin, the Journey Eastward— Organization of the Company— My Post
as Chaplain— Overtaken by Apostles A. M. Lyman and C. C. Rich-
Traveling Through the Mountains— Snowstorms and Wind— Forage is
Scarce— Meetings with the Indians— Captain Reynolds' Exploring Party
—Army Deserters in our Camp-Mail from Home— Emigrants Westward
Bound— I »issatisf action in Camp— Feeling about Apostles Lyman and
Rich— I Resign as Captain, but am Elected again, and Finally Resume
Command— Mail Robbery More Disagreeable Storms— Meet a Handcart
Company and Apostle George Q. Cannon— Reach the Missouri River-
Visit my Father and his Family— Go to St. Joseph, Missouri— My first
view of a Railway Train— At my old Home in Hrown County, Illinois-
Journey Eastward by Rail— Arrive in New York for the First Time— Find
Friends 407

CHAPTER LVI.

Visit Various Places of Interest in New York and Vicinity— Arrival of the
Great Eastern— Preach at Williamsburg— New York's Celebration of the
Fourth— My Thirty-second Birthday- Secure Passports and Ocean Pass-
age—Crowded in the Steerage— Foggy and wet Weather— View of the
Irish Coast— Fleet of British Warships— Land in Liverpool— Assigned to
Birmingham Conference— In Birmingham— Listen to an Anti-Mormon
Lecture— Visiting from House to House as a Mormon Missionary— Places
of Interest— Transferred to NottingharnConference— Preaching and Visit-
ing—Mission Travels -Go to London— See Notable Places— News of my
Daughter's Death — Birth of Another Daughter — Return to Notting-
ham 415

CHAPTER LYII.

Again at Missionary Labors— Baptisms — Become Quite HI— Appointed
President of the Nottingham District, Embracing three Conferences-
Visited by Apostles A. M. Lyman, C. C. Rich and Others— Settling Differ-
ences among Church Members— Attend a Phrenological Lecture - Get a
Chart— Go to Liverpool— In Conference at Nottingham— My Pastorate
Enlarged— Witness a Military Review— More Baptisms- Visit Sheffield—
Fixing my Name -Poverty in Nottingham- Invited to take a Trip to
Paris -Go to London— Have to give up the Visit to France— In Poor
Health— Return to Nottingham— See Professor Blondin 423

CHAPTER LVIII.

Prolonged Illness— Attend to my Duties with Difficulty— Letter Telling of
the Battle of Bulls Run— Witness an Execution by Hanging— Visit from
George Q. Cannon, Joseph F. Smith and Others— Death of the Hrince
Consort— Go to Birmingham— Conference of the Priesthood in the British
Mission— Large Meeting in Odd Fellows' Hall, Birmingham— Again at
Nottingham— Visit Liverpool -Consult a Physician, but get little Relief
—See the Liverpool Grand National Races— Depravity Among Poorer
Classes in Liverpool— Again at Nottingham— Released to Return Home —
Bid the People Farewell— Display of their Affection for me— Report of
my Labors Published in the MillennialStar— On Board Ship— Placed in
Charge of the Company— Sail for America— Driven by Headwinds along
the Coasts of the Isle of Man, Wales, Ireland and Scotland - Severe Sea-
sickness—Get to Sea— Slow Voyage— Deaths and Burials at sea— Land at
New York — Guest of Hon. w. H. Hooper — Journey to Florence, Nebraska
—Captain and Guide of Independent company— Reach Salt Lake City-
Report to President Young— Again at Home 429

CHAPTER LIX.

Remove from Ogden to Salt Lake City at the Request of President Young-
Necessity for Preaching among the Saints — In the Employ of President

CONTENTS. XVII

Young— On Another Mission, this time in Utah — Preaching and Lectur-
ing—Kuild a House— Go to the Canyon to get Finishing Lumber— Shot in
Mistake for a Bear— My Wound very Serious— Taken to Wanship to Re-
ceive Care — My Family Notified and Surgical Assistance Obtained —
Moved to my Home — In Bed Nine Months — Two Surgical Operations —
GrowStronger— Employed at the Warm Springs— Dr.Robinson— Abscess-
es in my Wounded Limb— Out of Employment— Go to the California
Line to Examine a Gold Prospect— Perilous Journey — Indians on the
Warpath — Remarkable experience with a Band of Savages — Gift of
Speaking their Language-Unable to work the Gold Claim Because of Lack
of Water Return to salt Lake City— Go to the Gold Discoveries on the
.Sweetwater— Discover a Placer Claim — An Attempt to Rob me of It-
Rush for a Mine— Hold the Claim— Assailed by Hostile Indians— A Race
for Life— Three Men Killed— We Abandon Camp — Suffer with my Lame
Limb— Lose the Mining Claim— Hauling Coal and Produce— Almost Die —
Confined to Bed for Months— Amputation of my limb to save my Life —
Recovery— Attend to my Nursery— Advent of the Railway — Traveling
and Preaching — A Slight Sunstroke 437

CHAPTER LX.

Called on a Mission to the United States— Journey Eastward— Visit Rela-
tives en Route— Reach New York— Measured for an Artificial Limb— How
it was Paid for— Visit and Preach— Meet Poor Encouragement— Go to
Boston— World's Peace Jubilee- Bunker Hill— Again at New York— Re-
leased to Return Home— Back in Lrtah — Traveling and Preaching— Sent
for by President Young— Called on a Mission to Arizona— Directed to
Furnish Names of Others -Send the List — President Young adds other
Names— Set Apart for our Mission- Difficult to Collect Money due me —
Leave my Family Poorly Provided for but Trusting in the Lord — Placed
in Charge of the Mission — Letter of Instructions— Start South— People
Contribute Liberally— Traveling in Storm— Arrive at Kanab — In Arizona
— A Hard Journey — Marriage of my Daughter— Reach Lee's Ferry on the
Colorado— Crossing the River— Reach Moencoppy Wash — Decide to
Winter There— Explore the Vicinity — Meet Friendly Indians — Building a
House — Exploring the Little Colorado — A Difficult Trip — Description of
the Route— Find a Place for Another Settlement— San Francisco Moun-
tains— Fine Forest Growth — Caught in Deep Snow— Through with a
Perilous Journey — Decide to Return to Salt Lake City and Report— Heavy
Snow— Trip Homeward— Cordially Greeted by President Young— With
my Family 447

CHAPTER LXI.

Attend Meetings with the First Presidency and Apostles— More Missionaries
Called to Arizona— Many Inquiries Regarding the Mission— Outline the
Route — Preparations for Travel— start South— Aided by Contributions —
Reach Moencoppy — Meet Lot Smith and Company — Baptisms— start for
the little Colorado River— Guide Missionary Companies to the Place
we had Selected for Settlement- -Lot Smith Refuses to Acknowledge my
Appointment from President Young as President of the Mission— He As-
sumes Leadership of the new Settlement— 1 Return with my Party to
Moencoppy— Other companies of Missionary Settlers sustain my Hresi-
dency— My Health is Poor— settlers Discouraged— Cheer them up -Work
of Frontier Life— Succor a Company whose Water Supply is Exhausted-
Taking up Land— Make a Long hxploiing Trip— Introduce Book of Mor-
mon to Navajos— Return to Moencoppy— Indians Dissatisfied— Go to Salt
Lake City with a Delegation of Navajo Chiefs— Their Supposed Griev-
ances Settled— Tell President Young' I have come Home to Stay— He
Sends me out Again— Directed to Procure Volunteers— Letter of Instruc-
tions—Lecture, and take up Contributions— Return Home— My Family
111— Provide Supplies for Them— Conditions Improve

CHAPTER I XII.

Again in Arizona— Settling Difficulties Among the People— Our Reservoir
Bursts— News of Notable Events— Prepare to Repel an Indian Raid— In-
dians Quarrel, and the Trouble Passes Over— Funeral at Moencoppy—
Exploring Trip to the Southeast— A White Indian Child— Meet the Head
Chief of the Navajos— His Address, and Proposition to Accompany me
to Salt Lake City— Agree on a Date for the Journey— Continue my Trip
Over into New Mexico, then Return to Moencoppy — Accusation Against
me Disproved— Indians Gather to go to Salt Lake City— Make the Trip—

XVIII CONTENTS.

At President Young's Deathbed — Visit the Indians — Honorable Re-
lease from my Mission— Resume Home Missionary Labors — In Prison for
Conscience Sake 468

CHAPTER LXIII.

Visited by President Joseph F. Smith -Called on Another Mission to the
Society Islands— Prepare to Respond— A Blessing by Apostle Lorenzo
Snow- Appointed to Preside over the Society Islands Mission— Attempts
to Discourage me from Undertaking the Journey- Surprise Party by my
Children- Farewell Reception in the "Ward Hall— Start on my Mission,
Accompanied by my Son and Others who had been Called— Voyage to
Tahiti Madman on Board the Vessel— At Marquesas Islands Strange
Characters— Tattooed White Man— His Peculiar Career— Catching Sharks

— Arrive at Papeete — My Reception '1 here— Meet Native Josephite
Preachers, who seem Confused — Elders from Utah Greet us— In Poor
Health 478

CHAPTER LXIV.

First Sabbath in Tahiti — Meet Several Persons whom I Knew over Forty
Years Before— How they Remembered me- Seek Permission to hold Pub-
lic Meetings— Widow of my Old Friend, John Layton, Calls on me^Other
Friends— Preach to the Josephites— Governor Refuses to Permit us to
Hold Public Meetings— Get Advice of the United States Consul— A Law-
yer's Counsel— Josephites tell of B. F. Grouard- I Explain how he had
Turned into the wrong Path— The Church Never Disorganized— Mission-
ary Labors— Greeting a French Admiral— Early Missionaries to Tahiti—
Their Severe Experiences— Sixty -fourth Anniversary of my Birth- Learn
of Mormons who were Hanged for Having Killed a Policeman in the
Trouble when I was Arrested on my First Mission to the Islands — Meet a
Native of Pitcairn's Island— His Story— Visit Tautila— Severe Voyage -A
Baptism— Sail for Tubuoi— Among Strangers Celebration of a French
Fete Day— Dine with the Governor— People Become less Unfriendly to
us— Breaking of the Clouds— Baptize Twenty-four Persons— Encourag-
ing Results of Missionary Efforts 483

CHAPTER LXV.

Miraculous Healing— Meet and Confound the Josephites — Further Mission-
ary Success— Meet a Native who was Present when I was Sentenced to be
Burned— Klder John Layton's Grave— Arrange to Return to Tahiti— Disap-
pointed—Preach a Funeral Sermon— Forbidden to Hold Public Meetings

— Blind Woman One Hundred and Twenty Years Old Her Testimony-
Administer to her for her Eyesight, and she is Enabled to see a Little-
She Praises the Lord— Preaching and Baptizing — Sail for Papeete— An
odd Cargo— Hard Voyage— Held by a Calm— Land on Tahiti— Sail for
Avaroa— On a Well-ordered Schooner— Call at Various Islands— Lance a
Carbuncle— Christmas Day at Sea— Watermelons— A Beautiful Residence
and Cordial Welcome—Perform Three Marriage Ceremonies — Conference
of Saints in the Tuamotu Islands— Meet a Native Chilean— Visit Various
Places— Public Welcome— Fishing— On the Island of Anaa— Visit Where I
was Imprisoned— Graves of those Concerned in the Trouble Then— War-
rant Served on me — Summoned to the Government House— Warned
Against Creating a Disturbance 493

CHAPTER LXVL

Preaching and Visiting— Pearl Fishing— Place of my Arrest in 1851— Accident
to a Young Man— Incident with the Governor of Anaa — See a Leper —
Capture of an Eel— Conference on Anaa— Time of Dedication of Salt Lake
Temple— Specially Interesting Meetings— New Elders from Utah— Start
back to Tahiti- Another Funeral Sermon— Meet the French Governor of
the Tuamotu Islands— His Cordial Greeting— Arrive at Papeete — Ap-
pointments for the New Missionaries— Fall to get a Passage to Tubuoi—
My Health Very Poor— I.earn of the Dedication of the Salt Lake Temple
—Elders Unanimous in the Decision that I should Return Home Because
of my Illness— 1 Demur -Conclude to go— Trouble on Anaa— My Sixty-
fifth Birthday— Notable Kindness of a Native Child— Sail from Papeete-
Difficulty in Landing from Small Boats— In the Society Islands— Reach
San Francisco— Arrive in Salt Lake City— Report the Successful Opening
of the Society Islands Mission '. 501

CONTENTS. XIX

CHAPTER LXVII.

Invited to the Midwinter Fair, San Francisco, and Accept— Journey to Cali-
fornia—Kind Treatment Received— An Honored Guest— Write a Pam-
phlet on the Discovery of Gold at >utter's Mill Race— First Accurate Ac-
count Published— Again at Home— Preparing my Autobiography for
Publication— A Great Task -Progress of the Work— My History of the
First Mission to the Pacific Islands— Utah's Semi -Centennial Jubilee —
Not a Utah Pioneer of 1847 -Pioneer Just the Same— Mormon Battalion
Recognized in the Utah Celebration — Invited to join in the Parade Com-
parative Narrowness of Committee's Courtesy- Letters from California
Regarding the Pioneer Celebration there in 1898— Invited with three
Others of the Mormon Battalion, to be Special Guests as the Survivors
of the Party that Discovered Gold in California in 1848 — Appreciation of
the Courtesy Extended by Calif ornians 508

CHAPTER LXVIII.

Trip to California— Met by the Committee on Reception of the Society of
California Pioneers— Received with Great Cordiality— Honored Guests at
California's Golden Jubilee— The Celebration— Courtesies Extended to
Mormon Battalion Members Present at the Discovery of Gold— Return
Home— Resolutions by Society of California Pioneers— Report of Recep-
tion Committee of California Golden Jubilee— Sketch of Marshall's Sur-
viving Companions- Complete my Autobiography — My Son Homer
Accidentally Killed— rhe Old Folks— Publication of Life of a Pioneer-
Conclusion 514

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Portrait of James S . Brown Frontispiece.

Fire Prepared to Roast the Missionary— Sentenced to Death 249

A Typical Tahitian with his Burden of Bread Fruit and Fell 303

A War Party of Shoshones Dancing around their Prisoners while in the

Chief's Lodge 325

Surrounded by a Pack of Hungry Wolves 371

Chased By a War Party 444

Marquesas Fire Dancers 480

LIFE OF A PIONEER.

BEING

THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY
OF

JAMES S. BROWN.

CHAPTER I.

HOME OF THE AUTHOR-A CAREEB OF THRILLING EXPERIENCES-HIS
BIRTH UJD PARENTAGE-EARLY AVOCATIONS-MIGRATION FROM
NORTH CAROLINA TO ILLINOIS-LIFE ON THE FRONTIER-DAN-
GERS TO EARLY 8ETTLERS--A FRONTIERSMAN-FATHERS ADVICE
MORE SETTLERS COME-CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS-LIMITED
OPPORTUNITIES-FROZEN FEET-UNIMPRESSIONABLE To THE
PRE ACHING OF THE TIME-TALK OF A NEW RELIGION, PROPHETS,
MIRACLES ETC. -PERSECUTION OF THE NEWCHURCH~"SHOWERS
0F STAKS"-POPULAB ADVEBSE VIEWS OF THE MORMONS-THE
MORMONS DRIVEN FROM MISSOURI INTO ILLINOIS-MORMON
ELDEB COMES TO PREACH -CONVERTS UNCLE JAMES BROWN-
PREACHES LGAIN-PREPARATIONS TO MOB THE ELDER-HIS
SCRIPTURAL DOCTRINE DISCONCERTS ENEMIES AND SECURES
HIM FRIENDS-HIS DISCOURSE -EFFECT ON YOUNG JAMES s.
BROUN )F Tins FIRST GOSPEL SERMON To HIM-HIS TESTIMONY
TO THE SPIRIT AND TRUTB OF THE ELDER'S MESSAGE.

THE subject and author of this Life-Sketch of a Pioneer
is James Stephens Brown, now (1900) in his seventy-
second year, a resident of Salt Lake City, Utah, his home
less than a quarter of a mile from and within the summer
morning's shadow of the majestic Temple of the Lord
erected on that spot which he beheld a barren and desolate

IO LIFE OF A PIONEER.

wilderness, on his entrance into the valley of the Great
Salt Lake, over half a century ago. His life has been one
of thrilling experiences — more than ordinarily falls to the lot
even of a pioneer settler in the Great West — a life in which
hardship and perils by sea and land, among dusky savages
and with white men, have contributed largely to the events
of his career; withal one in which he has had abundant
occasion to recognize and acknowledge the power and pro-
tecting care of an Almighty Providence.

It is at the urgent request and advice of valued friends,
familiar to a considerable extent with my life and labors,
that I place this autobiography in form to be easily acces-
sible to those desirous of perusing it; and I am not unmind-
ful of the fact that this simple recital of events is not only
of intense interest in numerous episodes which it records,
but is of historic value in being a plain and truthful narra-
tive of the personal experiences of a western pioneer.

I was born on Independence Day, July 4, 1828, in
Davidson County, North Carolina, U. S. A. My father
was Daniel Brown; he was the youngest son of his father's
family, and was born in Rowan County, North Carolina,
June 30, 1804. My father's father was James Brown, a
native of Rowan County, North Carolina, 1757 being the
year of his birth. His wife was the widow of a Revolu-
tionary War soldier named Emerson, who was killed in the
war for American independence, leaving his wife and two
children, Margaret and John Emerson. My grandfather
James Brown married the widow Emerson, who bore him
nine children — three sons and six daughters — Jane, Polly,
Nancy, Susan, Patsy, William, Obedience, James (captain
of Company C, Mormon Battalion), and Daniel (my father);
her maiden name was Mary Williams. All the family had
an excellent reputation, being upright, thrifty, and good and
industrious citizens.

With these introductory remarks, I will proceed to an

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. II

account of my boyhood's days. I was reared at the farming
and stock business, also at getting out saw timber and
wood for cooperware. My parents had moved from
North Carolina to Brown County. Illinois, in the autumn
of 1831, and had purchased an extensive tract of land. We
were a large family; the country was then wild and with
very few inhabitants, and the climate was unhealthy; so it
was with great effort that father and mother succeeded in
making a home and gathering about them the comforts of
life.

We were frontier settlers, and while father had his
pick of land, he also had the hardships and privations
of a new country to endure. There were no churches or
schoolhouses nearer than ten miles from our home, and
grist mills and blacksmith shops were equally distant. Thus
the family was reared without the advantage of schools, or
of church-going religious training. But we were thoroughly
acquainted with border life, with hunting, fishing, and all
the sports indulged in by hardy pioneers, and even learned
to shake terribly from the ague, and burn with fever spells,
while we were well dosed with quinine and calomel, and
had enormous doctor's bills to pay.

In our operations we trained horses and cattle to work,
stocked our own plows, made our own harrows, rakes and
forks, braided our own whips from the pelts of wild beasts
which we ourselves dressed, raised our own honey, and made
our own sugar, with some to sell. We had a good sugar
orchard, and plenty of wild fruits and nuts for the gather-
ing. As the first settlers of new countries are more or
less subject to dangers from outlaws, wild beasts, and sav-
age men, we found it important to be well armed, and on
the alert day and night to defend life and liberty.

Thus we learned the use of firearms and the toma-
hawk. My father was an expert with the old Kentucky
rifle, and some of his boys were not far behind him; he

12 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

trained them always to shoot with a rising sight, to keep
cool, and always to have their powder dry and plenty of it.
He also taught us to tell the truth, and used to say: "Be
honest, stand up for your rights, and fight for your country
and friends."

In the year 1835, people began to settle in around us.
and then the circuit riders, as they were called — the minis-
ters— commenced to call around and hold meetings in pri-
vate houses. There were Baptists, Freewill Baptists,
Methodists, Campbellites, and others. From 1836 to 1838
some small churches and schoolhouses were built, so that
we began to get spiritual food, such as it was; and also
some schooling, with the benefit of the hickory rod that
always was kept "in soak," so to speak, and woe to the
unruly student when it was called into service!

So far as the author is concerned, he managed to get
along without the rod the short time he was permitted to
attend school. He was kept close at work on the
farm in summer, and in the winter months was engaged
getting out timber and hauling to market the farm products.
Once his feet were frozen so that he lost every nail from his
toes. As to the religious teachings of the time, there was a
great deal of thundering and thundering, but it failed to indi-
cate any lightening of the author's path, for he fished and
hunted on the Sabbath day, just the same.

Some time in the '30s we began to hear a little about
false prophets, a new religion, miracles, money-diggers,
thieves, liars, miracle-workers, deceivers, witches, speaking
in tongues and interpretation of the same, walking on the
water, and visits from angels. As time went on, all these
things were combined to form a grand excuse for raising
mobs to expel the new Church from the borders of civiliza-
tion. Then came news of murder, rapine, house-burning,
and destruction of towns and cities in Missouri. There
were great "showers" of stars in the firmament about this

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 3

time. On popular rumor, and from hearing only one side
of the story, almost everybody decided that such a pre-
viously unheard-of people as the Mormons ought to be
shot or burned at the stake. This was the sentiment to
be found on every hand.

As a culmination of these things came the tidings that
the Missourians had driven the Mormons from the state of
Missouri into Illinois. A little later, and a Latter-day
Saint Elder named Jacob Pfoutz entered the neighborhood
of my Uncle James Brown's home, converted him, his wife,
and several of the neighbors. This Elder was brought
down by my uncle to see his two sisters, Aunts Polly and
Nancy Brown.

Elder Pfoutz was given permission to preach in the
schoolhouse about three miles from my father's house.
The news spread like a prairie fire that the Mormons had
come and would preach on Friday. I think this was in the
autumn of 1840. I was at my aunt's at the time, and
decided to go and hear the strange preacher. Like most
of the people, I went out of curiosity, more than anything
else. I had just turned my twelfth year, and had begun to
take some interest in religion, going to every meeting
for which I could obtain permission from my parents, yet
not thinking for a moment but that all religions were right.

At the first meeting held by the Mormon, the house
was pretty well filled. Some who attended did so with the
thought that after the services were over they would tar
and feather the Elder and ride him on a rail, as such things
had been indulged in in Missouri, and threats had been
made freely. Others were going to confound him, and still
others wanted to see the fun, as they said.

The preacher was a plain-spoken man of thirty-five to
forty years old, of German descent. He was plainlv
dressed, and without that urbane polish which ministers
usually have. When he began his discourse, he raised up

14 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

very calmly and deliberately,and read from Matthew,seventh
chapter, verses fifteen to twenty. He spoke from that text
and corroborating passages, supporting his argument
throughout by scripture. At the conclusion of his address,
some of the people said they did not want to mob a man
who preached like that, while others "sniffed" their noses
and tried to get up a sneering laugh, but failed. The Elder
was invited to my aunt's house and was granted permission
to preach on Sunday in their oak-grove, while several of
the religiously inclined followed him to his stopping place
and plied him with questions.

As to myself, it seemed that I had not only heard it
thunder, but I had seen the lightning and felt it through
every fibre of my system, from the crown of my head to
the soles of my feet. I was revived as the showers of
heaven revive the parched earth and impart life to the
languishing vegetation. Notwithstanding the fact that I
knew the Latter-day Saints, or Mormons, were looked upon
as filth, in fact as even worse than rubbish, that they had
been called the very off-scourings of the earth, that they
were regarded as deserving to be put to death, yet from
that very day I received their doctrine in or by the spirit.

Now that sixty years have rolled by since the events
here narrated; that I have passed through mobbings, rob-
bings, fines and penalties; have been banished and once
sentenced to death; Paul-like have fought with wild beasts,
have been shipwrecked and almost starved; have famished
on thirsty deserts; have had the scalping-knife wielded
over my head while the Indian warwhoop saluted my ears
and the savage warrior danced with tomahawk in hand,
exulting over the victim intended to be slain and scalped in
trophy of victor}'; have laid in dungeons for my religion's
sake — thanks be to God that I yet live and bear a faithful
testimony of the truth and spirit that possessed my soul from
that first Gospel sermon I ever heard. I have listened to

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 5

ministers of various Christian denominations advocate good
and virtuous principles, but I never knew any of them to
preach the fullness of the Gospel of the Lord Jesus as did
that humble Mormon Elder.

CHAPTER II.

PERSECUTED BY PLAYMATES— GIVE THEM AN EFFECTIVE CHECK-FIGHT
WITH WILD BEASTS— PARENTS JOIN THE MORMONS— THE AUTHOR
HOLDS BACK— ASSASSINATION OF JOSEPH AND HYRUM SMITH-
MORMONS LEAVE ILLINOIS FOR THE WEST— EXCITING TIMES— MY
WINTER'S WORK— FATHER DECIDES TO WAIT A WHILE BEFORE
LEAVING ILLINOIS— MY DETERMINATION TO GO WITH THE MOR-
MONS -CONFIDE A SECRET TO MY MOTHER— A NEW CONSULTA-
TION—CHANGE IN THE FAMILY PLANS— FATHER PREPARES TO
START-GIVES ME PERMISSION TO GO— THINKS OF LEAVING ME
BECAUSE OF MY ILLNESS— I FEEL TO PREFER DEATH TO BEING
LEFT BEHIND.

FROM the very day my parents entertained the Latter-
day Saint Elders in their house my former playmates
in the neighborhood commenced a crusade on me, calling
me a Mormon, and many hard names, whenever they met
me. When we gathered at the mill pond, our usual place of
bathing, they would baptize me, as they called it, in the
name of Beelzebub; but I called it drowning, for it seemed
to me that when three or four of them got me under the
water they never knew when to let me up. Then when
I got out of the water they would mockingly "lay hands"
on me in the name of Beelzebub, going through a ceremony
and at short intervals calling "Pluck," when they would
pull my hair with a severe twitch, and would spit on me
and laugh. Once my clothes were taken and thrown into
a bed of itching nettles, and when I tried to get them out
with a pole I was pushed in among the nettles. At the grist-

1 6 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

mill, also, they would punish me in a shameful manner. At
last I became so provoked that I went after them with a
strong jack-knife. Though some of them were eighteen or
nineteen years old. they ran off, fully convinced that I would
have hurt them if I could have caught them. The miller
interposed and gave them a severe reprimand. From that
time they never tried to punish me. My medicine had
worked well, and thereafter I was looked on as a leading
boy among them.

During this period I had some perilous experiences
with wild animals. My father had a pet deer, and a bull-
dog owned by the family caught it by the nose; I tried to
get the dog off, when the frightened deer kicked and tore
my clothes almost off, lacerating my flesh considerably.
Soon after this the deer was followed, in the woods near
the house, by a large buck, which my father shot. The
animal's shoulder was broken, and I followed it to the mill-
pond and sprang into the water to hold it. As I seized its
horn the buck, which had a footing, threw me around, lacer-
ating my left hand considerably. For a time my life was
in peril from the wild animal, but I struggled and finally
used my pocket knife on its throat. Some time after this
episode a man named John Bos shot and wounded a big
buck near our home. It being night, he came to the house
for assistance, and father and I went out. The dogs reached
the buck, which charged on them, and as it was seized by
the nose by one of them father and I caught the buck's
hind feet. It kicked us free, and I had a close call from
being severely if not fatallv hurt; but we returned to the
attack, and finally secured the game.

As time went on the older people in our neighborhood
took interest in the Mormon Elders, and some of them
joined the new Church, while others became very intoler-
ant and hostile. My parents and my eldest brother and sister
united with the Mormons; yet I held back, for though fully

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 7

in sympathy with what my relatives had done I did not con-
sider myself worthy to join, for I thought that to be a church^
member I must have some great experience and see great
lights, such as I had heard people testify of. Thus I stayed
out and watched developments.

Finally, in July, 1844, the news reached us that the
Prophet Joseph Smith and his brother Hyrum, the Patri-
arch, had been assassinated in Carthage jail by a mob; also,
that the Mormons had been ordered to leave the state, and
were going either to the Rocky Mountains, California, or
Vancouver Island. In fact, there were many kinds of
rumors afloat, and there was great excitement.

In the fall of 1845 permission was given me to go to
a river town five miles from home, to work at a slaughter
and packing house, where my cousin, Homer Jackson, and
I got employment that season. We heard that the Mor-
mons were going to start west the next spring — in fact,
their purpose was a topic of frequent conversation. We
returned home in the latter part of January, 1846, and soon
learned that the Church leaders were leaving Nauvoo for a
new home in the unknown western wilds, and that every
true Mormon was expected to join them as soon as possible.

Shortly after this, father called a family meeting to con-
sider what to do. It was a great venture to start out with
a large family on a journey of a thousand miles or more into
an unknown wilderness, among savage tribes; so after long
discussion of the matter, it was decided to be too great an
undertaking at that particular time. It was regarded as in-
advisable to take the chances of starving to death in the
wilderness. Besides, property was very low, and it was
folly to sell out a good home at so great a sacrifice as seemed
necessary.

When this decision was reached, father turned to me
and said : "Well, Jimmy, what do you think about it?" I an-
swered that where the Mormons went I would go, and where

1 8 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

they died I would die. This was the first time I had been
asked a question, and as I was not a member of the Church
my reply surprised the others. Being inquired of as to how
I would go, I suggested that perhaps someone wanted a
teamster, or maybe there was some widow who would take
a boy for his labor in return for food and clothing. Father
asked if I would leave the family and go out west and starve;
and he suggested that as I did not belong to the Mormons
they would not have me. To this I said I would join them,
and that my mind was made up to go with the Mormons at
all hazards. Then father ordered me to keep quiet, saying
he would thrash me if I talked of leaving home. This
closed the discussion, for in those days thrashing was the
great panacea for disobedience, whether at home or in the
school room. But that threat clinched my resolve to go
with the Mormons even at the risk of life, for I was
thoroughly satisfied of the justice of their cause.

I said no more then, but at the first opportunity told my
mother that soon I would come up missing, as I was going
with the Mormons, and should hide if searched for, if I had
to go among the Indians. Mother said I would starve, but
my reply was that I could live on what others did. My
mother was convinced that I would go, and her mother's
heart was so touched that she could not withold my secret
from my father, who believed, too, that I would do as I had
said.

One evening, soon afterward, I overheard them talking
of the matter. Father said it would break up the family if
they did not move west, for Jim certainly would go; they
were satisfied that the Mormon doctrines were true, and
thought that perhaps they had better make an effort to sell
out and move. My heart was filled with joy at these
words.

When morning came, father set out to buy oxen, and
was successful. He also sold his farm but reserved the

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 19

crop, as he had to wait till after harvest for part of his pay
for the land. He thought that by fitting out two good
teams, and providing wagons and tools, he and Alexander
Stephens (mother's brother) and two of his sisters (old
maids), and myself could go out into Iowa, where we could
put in some corn and build a cabin or two. Then my uncle
and 1 could do the rest while father returned, took care of
the harvest, and brought up the family, when we would fol-
low the Church as best we could until a resting place was
found.

The way now seemed open. My father felt encour-
aged, and all went well until a few days before the time
for starting, when I was stricken down with fever and ague,
and shook or chilled every other day till the first of May,
at which time all was ready for moving. Efforts were
made to persuade me that I could not stand the journey, but
should allow one of the other boys to go in my stead. But I
could not see it in that light. While father was talking of the
matter to mother I overheard him say, "We will have to let
James go, for he will not be satisfied without, but he will get
enough of it when he has had a few days, and has camped
out and shaken a few times with the ague." I thought to
myself, "You are mistaken, father, for I would rather die
than be left behind."

20 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

CHAPTER III.

START FOB NAUVOO— TAKEN SEVERELY ILL— THE LORD ANSWERS M Y
PRAYEB FOB RELIEF-PASS THROUGH CARTHAGE-UN NAUVOO

•THE BLArTIFUL," BIT ALMOST DESERTED CITY- SCENE OX THE
IOWA SHORE— CROSS THE MIS>lssil'RI— CURIOUS MAKE-UP OF THE
EXILE-- TEAMS— THE BAD ROADS— STUCK IX THE MUD— REPAIR-
ING CAMPS— GOOD ORDEK MAINTAINED— UNNECESSARY KILLING
OF GAME FORBIDDEX— REACH GRAXD RIVER AND RUT IX A CROP
—LEARN OF THE CALL FOR THE MORMON BATTALIOX— APOSTLES
AS RECRUITING OFFICERS— CALli FOR VOLUNTEERS— RESPONSE
BY THE CAMP— RECEIVED IXTO THE CHURCH BY BAPTISM-
FILLED WITH THE LOVE OF THE GOSPEL— GET THE SPIRIT TO
ENLIST— CONSULT WITH MY RELATIVES AXI) EZRA T. BEXSOX—
AX ELDER'S PROMISE— JOIX THE MORMOX BATTALION.

MAY ist, 1846, was a pleasant day, and we made our
start for Nauvoo, passing through Versailles to a
point some ten miles from home to the first night's camp.
I was encouraged to think I had kept so well, but about
ten o'clock the second day I began to shake, and my teeth
fairly to crack. I prayed earnestly to the Lord to heal me.
I was quite weak, and all thought me very sick. But that
was the last "shake" I had, for I began to get well from
that time.

It was on May 4th, I believe, that we reached Nauvoo,
having passed through Mount Sterling, the county seat of
Brown County, also through Carthage, where the Prophet
Joseph Smith and his brother the Patriarch Hyrum Smith
had been assassinated. We found the roads so muddy and
such hard traveling that we did not make more than fifteen
miles a day. When we came in sight of the Temple at
Nauvoo our hearts were filled with mingled joy and sor-
row— joy that we had seen the Temple of the Lord, and
sorrow that the Saints had been so cruelly driven from it.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 21

As we passed through the city we saw many houses which
had been abandoned — indeed, the city itself seemed almost
deserted. At some of the houses stood covered wagons,
into which people were packing goods preparatory to their
flight into the wilderness, they knew not where.

Looking westward across the great Mississippi River,
we saw long trains of wagons strung out over the high roll-
ing prairie. The country was new, and the roads muddy,
so we rested three or four days, visiting the Temple and
viewing the city that was beautiful for situation, but now
was left with few inhabitants. Everything in and about the
city that formerly hummed with industry and life was now
lonely, saddened, and forlorn, and silent but for the prepa-
rations for flight by the remnant therein.

About the 8th of May we crossed the great "father of
waters" and joined the "rolling kingdom" on its westward
journey. We found friends and acquaintances, made up a
company of our own, and passed and were repassed on
the trip. Climbing an eminence from which we looked
east and west, covered wagons could be seen as far as the
eye could reach. The teams were made up of oxen, milch
cows, two-year-old steers and heifers, and very few horses
and mules. The teamsters were of both sexes, and com-
prised young and old. The people who could walk did so,
and many were engaged in driving loose stock.

Hundreds of teams stuck in the mud, and we had
to double-up and help one another out. Many times we had
to wade in mud half to our knees and lift our wagons out
of the mire. In this the women not infrequently would join
their husbands and sons, and the old adage came true in
numerous instances — women for a dead lift; w7hen they
plunged into the mud and put their shoulders to the wheels
the men wTere urged to do double effort, and the wagon
always rolled out and onward, at the rate of twelve to fif-
teen miles per day.

2 2 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

At every creek we found campers, some repairing
wagons, yokes, chains, etc., doctoring sick cattle, washing
clothes, or helping forward friends whose teams were weak.
In all this there was excellent order, for the camps were
organized in a general way by tens, fifties and hundreds.
Peace and harmony prevailed all along the line. Evening
prayers were attended to in each camp. There was much
singing, mostly of sacred hymns or sentimental songs; and
from no quarter could coarse songs be heard. Sometimes
the camp would meet in a sociable dance in the evenings, to
drive dull care away; and then there always was good order
and the most perfect friendship and peace.

The camps were instructed not to kill game of any kind
to waste its flesh; they were not even to kill a snake on the
road, for it was their calling to establish peace on earth, and
good will toward man and beast. Thus all went on in peace
and order.

At one of the headwaters of the Grand River, Iowa,
we found some hundreds of people putting in gardens and
field crops (corn and potatoes). A few cabins had been
built, so father and our party decided to stop there. We
put in a few acres of corn and garden stuff, then father re-
turned to Illinois to bring up the rest of the family, leaving
my Uncle Alexander Stephens and myself to look after the
crop and stock, which we did faithfully.

About the 6th of July we heard that President Young
and several of the Twelve Apostles had returned from the
most advanced companies, and that there would be a meet-
ing held at the white oak grove — the usual place of meet-
ing— the next day. There was also a rumor in camp that
a government recruiting offcer had come to enlist volun-
teers, for the United States had declared war against
Mexico.

Of course this latter tidings was a great surprise, as
the Mormons had been denied protection against mob vio-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 23

lence and had been forced beyond the borders of civiliza-
tion in the United States, and our camps were stretched out
in an Indian country, from the Mississippi River to the
Missouri. Surprised as we were at the government's de-
mand, we were still more so to think that our leaders would
entertain for a moment the idea of encouraging compliance
therewith. Yet rumor said that President Young and the
prominent men with him had come as recruiting officers
as well.

All who could be spared from the tents went eagerly
to the White Oak grove, and there learned that the rumors
were true. The United States government demanded that
a battalion of five hundred men be raised by the Mormon
Church, then fleeing from mob violence for the want of
protection by that government whose right and duty it was
to protect them. The men of the moving camp were re-
quired to leave their families in the wilderness, almost
unprotected, and go to a foreign land to fight their country's
battles.

But wonders never cease. The leading men among
the Mormons — Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, Wil-
ford Woodruff, and others of the Twelve Apostles — stood
before the people and called for volunteers to engage in the
Mexican war, saying that the five hundred men must be
raised if it took the whole strength of the camp to do it. If
the young men would not enlist, the middle-aged and old
men would, said President Young; the demand of our
country should be met if it took the Twelve Apostles and
the High Priests.

At the close of the meeting there were many who
were enthused, while others appeared confused and did not
seem to catch the spirit of the matter. I was not yet a
member of the Church, but all the old stories of the war of
the Revolution and that of 1812, with the later Black Hawk
Indian wars, brightened in my memory so that the spirit of

24 LIFE OF A PIONEER,

the patriots awoke within me, and although I was averse
to war and bloodshed, I had a desire to serve my country
in an}- legitimate way. Yet I felt that, as I was under age.
and, as my Uncle Alexander Stephens had decided to
enlist, the responsibility of my father's affairs now rested
on me.

My uncle and I were standing by the roadside talking
over the situation, when along came Ezra T. Benson, who
had been recently selected as one of the Twelve Apostles;
there also came Richmond Louder, one of my associates
from boyhood, and Matthew Caldwell. Richmond Louder
and I had talked previously of being baptized together. He
said they were going down to attend to that sacred ordi-
nance, and invited me to accompany them, which I did
gladly. We went to the south fork of the Grand River, and
with Uncle A. Stephens as a witness were baptized. This
was on the 7th of July, 1846. Then we went to the house
of General Charles C. Rich, where we were confirmed, I think
under the hands of Elders Willard Richards and Ezra T.
Benson, in the presence of President'Brigham Young and
others of the Twelve Apostles.

This done, the happiest feeling of my life came over
me. I thought I would to God that all the inhabitants of
the earth could experience what I had done as a witness of
the Gospel. It seemed to me that, if they could see and
fee) as I did, the whole of humankind would join with us
in one grand brotherhood, and the universe would be
prepared for the great Millennial morn.

When we returned to camp, my aunts partook of the
same feeling that had filled me. Then I got the spirit to
enlist, and after a short consultation with those most con-
cerned they advised me to lay the matter before Ezra T.
Benson. Accordingly, the next morning Uncle A. Ste-
phens and I went over to the grove. I told the Elder my
feelings, and the responsibilities left upon me by my father.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 25

Elder Benson said the Spirit's promptings to me were right,
and I had started right. He told me to go on, saying I
I would be blessed, my father would find no fault with me,
his business would not suffer, and I would never be sorry
for the action I had taken or for my enlistment. Every
word he said to me has been fulfilled to the very letter.

Uncle Alexander Stephens and I then went to a tent
where men were giving in their names as volunteers. We
handed in our names, and were enrolled as members of the
historic Mormon Battalion.

CHAPTER IV.

START FOR THE BATTALION RENDEZVOUS— A JOURNEY OF HARDSHIP—
IN THE MORMONS' CAMP ON MISSOURI RIVER— FIRST EXPERI-
ENCES IN THE ARMY— BLESSED BY APOSTLES— PROPHETIC AD-
DRESS BY PRESIDENT BR1GHAM YOUNG— THE BATTALION STARTS
ON ITS LONG JOURNEY— DOING CAMP DUTY— HEAVY STORMS AND
INSUFFICIENT RATIONS— HARD EXPERIENCES— AT FORT LEAVEN-
WORTH—MEXICAN MULES AS A CURE FOR EGOTISM— COLONEL
ALLEN TAKEN ILL— ON THE SANTA FE ROAD— SUFFERING FROM
THIRST— SICKNESS AMONG THE TROOPS— DR. G. B. SANDERSON, A
TYRANNICAL QUACK— ARMY MERCHANTS— ORDER OF MARCHING.

IT was about one o'clock in the afternoon of July 9
when we bade our friends an affectionate farewell, and
started on what we understood to be a journey of one hun-
dred and thirty-eight miles, to join the army of the United
States at our country's call. We had provisions enough put
up to last us on our trip. The night previous our old clothes
had received the necessary repairs. Our preparations were
hasty and incomplete, for we had been told (by an unauthor-
ized person, as we afterwards learned) that when we got to
Sarpy's Point, on the Missouri River, we would draw uni-
2

26 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

forms, clothing, blankets, and rations, and would have to
cast aside our old clothes.

Our initial trip was begun without a blanket to wrap
ourselves in, as we thought we could find shelter in the
camps along the line of march. But in this we were mis-
taken, for everybody seemed to have all they could do to
shelter their own. The first night we camped on the bank
of a small stream, where we fell in with twelve or fifteen
other volunteers who had not so much as a bit of bread,
but plenty of assurance in asking for what others had. We
divided with them, then scraped what leaves we could and
laid down thereon, with a chunk of wood for our pillow.
Next morning we divided our last morsel of food with
what we learned later were the very roughest element of
the battalion.

For five days we journeyed, much of the time in heavy
rain and deep mud, sleeping on the wet ground without
blankets or other kind of bedding, and living on elm bark
and occasionally a very small ration of buttermilk handed
to us by humane sisters as we passed their tents. We
thought our experience was pretty rough, but I do not
remember that I heard murmuring from the lips of anyone,
for we felt that we were in the service of God and our
country.

When we reached the Missouri River we found that
some four hundred men had rendezvoused there. In the
camps of the Latter-day Saints, close by, there were some
thousands of men, women and children; a brush bowery
had been erected, where the people met for religious wor-
ship. We soon found friends who welcomed us to camp,
and we were invited to a social dance and farewell party.
We had excellent music, the best dinner that the country
could afford, and, above all, a spirit of brotherly love and
union that I have never seen surpassed. With all on the
altar of sacrifice for God and His kingdom and for our

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 27

•country, it seemed that everything and everybody looked
to the accomplishment of one grand, common cause, not a
dissenting voice being heard from anyone.

July 16, 1846, we were mustered into the service of
the United States, and, under command of Col. James
Allen, marched down the bluffs to the Missouri bottoms,
where we camped in a cottonwood grove. Some flour and
other provisions were issued to us, and we peeled the bark
off a tree for a bread tray or kneading trough. Some
rolled their dough around sticks and stuck or held it before
the fire, and others baked their bread in the ashes; for we
had not yet drawn any camp equipage. We received one
blanket apiece, and had that charged up, the amount to be
taken out of our pay.

I am not writing a history of the Mormon Battalion,
but am relating my individual experiences in that detach-
ment of the United States army, as I recollect them; so it
will not be expected of me'to tell much of what others saw,
or to narrate events as they remember them, but as they im-
pressed themselves upon my mind at the time of occurrence.

Just before our last farewell to friends at the Missouri
River, and preparatory to taking up our line of march, we
were formed into a hollow square, and President Brigham
Young, with Heber C. Kimball and others of the Apostles,
came to our camp, rode into the square, and gave us part-
ing blessings and instructions. The words of President
Young, as they fastened themselves upon my memory,
were in substance as follows: "Now, brethren, you are
going as soldiers at your country's call. You will travel in
a foreign land, in an enemy's country; and if you will live
your religion, obey your officers, attend to your prayers,
and as you travel in an enemy's land, hold sacred the prop-
erty of the people, never taking anything that does not
belong to you only in case of starvation; though you may
be traveling in an enemy's country, do not disturb fruit

28 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

orchards or chicken coops or beehives, do not take anything-
but what you pay for — although it is customary for soldiers
to plunder their enemies in time of war, it is wrong — always
spare life when possible; if you obey this counsel, attending
to vour prayers to the Lord, I promise you in the name of
the Lord God of Israel that not one soul of you shall fall
by the hands of the enemy. You will pass over battlefields;
battles will be fought in your front and in your rear, on
your right hand and on your left, and your enemies shall
flee before you. Your names shall be held in honorable
remembrance to the latest generation."

Heber C. Kimball and other prominent men of the
Church confirmed what President Young had said, and all
bade us an affectionate farewell, with "God bless you and
spare your lives."

Thus we set out in good cheer on our journey of more
than two thousand miles in a section of the continent wholly
unknown to us.

In the month of July, from about the 20th, we passed
down through the towns and villages along the river, for
two hundred miles, to Fort Leavenworth. The heat was
excessive, and the roads dusty, when we started out. A
great part of the way we had only a small ration of food,
for it did not seem to be in the country, and we suffered
much from want. We took regular turns in standing guard
around the camp and in herding the stock. Heavy rains
came on, and for several days we pressed forward amid
such terrible storms as I never had experienced before.
With less than half rations, and that badly or insufficiently
cooked, from lack of proper utensils and experience, and
having to lie on the ground without any bedding save one
blanket each, it is a wonder the entire camp were not down
sick instead of a few. But with all this hardship there were
no desertions and few complaints. Everything seemed to
move harmoniously among the men.

C535 7

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 20,

The command crossed the river at Fort Leavenworth,
Kansas, and soon afterwards we drew a tent to each mess
of six men. This afforded us great relief at nights, pro-
tecting us from the dews and rain; but in the daytime the
whiteness of the tents seemed to intensify the heat so that
there was no comfort in them. While at Fort Leaven-
worth we washed our old clothing and made ourselves as
comfortable as possible. Soon we drew camp equipage and
rations from the government. We got flintlock muskets,
and accoutrements consisting of bayonets, cartridge-boxes,
straps and belts, canteens, haversacks, etc., also a knapsack
each. We drew our first pay, forty-two dollars each, sent
part of it to our families, and fitted ourselves out with new
clothes and shoes.

With all the paraphernalia of soldiers, we seemed so
burdened as to be able neither to run nor to fight. Then to
be obliged to travel all day under a broiling sun, or in driv-
ing rain or fierce winds, across sandy deserts and over
trackless mountains, going sometimes sixty to ninety miles
without water, in an enemy's country — kind reader, you
may picture such scenes in your imagination, but it is
impossible for you to realize the conditions except by actual
experience therein. It is equally impossible for me to find
language to describe fitly the situation at that time at the
United States military post of Fort Leavenworth.

The place being an outfitting station for United States
forces in the war with Mexico, all was bustle and activity;
steamboats were unloading material, and teams filled the
streets; many of the new recruits were very rough indeed,
and drinking and fighting seemed to be their pastime; myself
and companions were amazed and shocked at the profane
and vulgar language and vile actions that we were com-
pelled to listen to and witness; with all else, squads of
soldiers were being drilled, the bugle sound was frequent,
as were also the beating of the drum and the playing of the

30 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

fife; everywhere the men were preparing for victory or
death, and many were so reckless they did not seem to
care which came.

As our battalion was preparing quietly for the great
march before us, a band of very small Mexican mules was
brought in to be used as teams in our transportation depart-
ment. The animals were unaccustomed to harness, and
very wild, so there was a detail of men from each company
assigned to do the harnessing. It fell to my lot to engage
in the work, and great was my surprise to see one of those
little mules dragging three to five men about the yards. I
thought T was able to handle one of the little long-eared
animals' myself, but had the conceit taken out of me in
quick order by having my hands burned with the rope, as
I was jerked and dragged about in fertilizer in the yards — ■
there being an abundance there. But we accomplished our
work, with some sport and considerable cost to our patience
and muscular energy.

From the ioth to the 15th of August, companies A,
B, and C moved out on the Santa Fe road, and in two or
three days were followed by companies D and E. Our
esteemed colonel, James Allen, having been taken ill,
ordered Captain Jefferson Hunt of company A to take
command until the colonel should recover and settle up the
business of outfitting the battalion.

Our route lay over rolling hills, through some timbered
country and some prairie. The weather was warm, and
there was much suffering, especially from lack of drinking
water, this being scarce. The sick felt the hardship par-
ticularly, and there was quite a number down with chills
and fever; such water as was obtainable was of poor
quality, warm and unhealthy, and added to the number of
the sick.

Each company had a large wagon and three or four
yoke of oxen to haul the tents and camp equipage, and one

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 3 1

issue of rations, I think it was for one week. The govern-
ment had assigned a doctor to our command, George B.
Sanderson of Platte County, Missouri. He proved to be so
cruel and tyrannical as to incur the ill-will of every man in
the command. He had immediate charge of the hospital
wagons, and no matter how ill a man was, he was not
allowed to ride in the company's wagon until he had
reported to this cruel quack, who had to be honored with
the title of physician and surgeon. With his permission a
man was allowed to crawl into his company's wagon, which
was filled nearly to the bows with tents and other camp
equipage. Sometimes there would be "five or six crowded
in together, some shaking with ague and others burning
with fever. Our company wagon was called the Gray Eagle;
John Gilbert was the teamster, and did all in his power to
favor those of his comrades who deserved it.

Besides the company and hospital wagons, there were
sutlers' or merchants' wagons — speculators that are per-
mitted to follow the army for what they can make off the
troops. They carry in stock such things as they know
from experience the soldier most needs, and many luxuries;
they had almost everything to entice the famishing soldier,
who had to stand guard over them and their stores. Many
times, through hardships, we seemed compelled to patron-
ize them. Our suffering was their opportunity, and they
were not slow to take advantage of it. Their prices were
enormous, and their bills never failed to reach the pay-
master by each payday; after these were paid, the soldier
came in for the balance, if there was any. Some were very
unfortunate through sickness, and had to patronize the
sutler, or merchant; others were unwise in their purchases;
and thus the eight dollars a month wages often was spent
before it was earned.

Our commissary and ammunition department included
over a hundred wagons; the three or four pieces of artillery

32 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

followed close in our rear, in charge of a wagonmaster and
assistants.

The usual order of marching, as I remember it, was:
an advance guard; then the colonel and his staff; next came
the body of the command; then a rearguard, the baggage
and hospital wagons, etc. Only on special occasions was
the main body of the battalion permitted to march at will,
as long as it remained between the front and rear guards.
When the country was specially rough, and roads had to
be made, the road hands, or, in military language, the sap-
pers and miners, were allowed extra rations, and had to
start out very early with the advance guard.

CHAPTER V.

CROSSING OF THE KAW RIVER-INDIAN FARMERS— FIERCE STORM ON
STONE COAL CREEK— CROSSING A CREEK WITH PRECIPITOUS
BANKS— RUINS OF AN ANCIENT CITY— WAGONLOAD OF SICK UP-
SET IN A STREAM— SAD NEWS OF COL. ALLEN'S DEATH— DISPUTE
OVER HIS SUCCESSOR— MILITARY RULES DISREGARDED IN SET-
TLING THE QUESTION— TROOPS DISSATISFIED— SICKNESS IN CAMP
—HARSHNESS OF THE^NEW COMMANDER, LIEUTENANT COLONEL
SMITH— BRUTALITY OF THE DOCTOR— DOSES OF OBJECTIONABLE
MEDICINE IN AN OLD IRON SPOON— IN THE COMANCHE INDIAN
COUNTRY— ABUSE FROM LIEUTENANT COLONEL SMITH— SCARCITY
OF FUEL— BUFFALO CHIPS— COOKING FOOD UNDER GREAT DIFFI-
CULTIES—INCREASE OF SICKNESS— UP THE GRAND VALLEY OF
THE ARKANSAS— DETACHMENT OF SICK SENT TO PUEBLO-
MIRAGES— HERDS OF BUFFALO— ON THE SICK LIST— REACH THE
ROCKY MOUNTAINS— PREHISTORIC RUINS— IN MEXICAN VIL-
LAGES—ARRIVAL AT SANTA FE.

WE crossed the Kaw River about the 17th of August,
being ferried over in flat boats by some half civilized
Delaware and Shawnee Indians. Where we crossed the
river it was from three to four hundred yards wide. The
country in the neighborhood seemed to be well adapted to

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 33

farming. The Indians had good crops of corn and water-
melons, and knew as well as white men how to charge for
them. These Indians were an intelligent-looking people,
having log cabins for dwellings.

From the Kaw we traveled to Spring Creek, over a
beautiful country, and there joined the companies that had
preceded us. We met with rainstorms that made it very
disagreeable for us at night, when two of us would spread
one blanket and lie down on it. It would wet through at
once; and though we had tents over us, we often slept on
the wet ground, in wet clothes.

Moving onward to Stone Coal Creek, we there
endured one of the severest storms of wind and rain that
any of us ever had experienced. Nearly every tent was
blown down; several government wagons were overturned,
and others were sent rolling before the wind as though
they were express or stage coaches; many men fell on
their faces and held to the shrubbery to avoid being carried
away by the violence of the hurricane, while others not so
fortunate as to be able to catch hold of a shrub were driven
some rods before the blast. Some were bruised and
others badly frightened, but none received serious injury;
and although everybody was thoroughly soaked, not even
the sick seemed to be unfavorably affected in health by
their experience.

The storm over and our clothing dried, we resumed
our march. Coming to a deep creek with precipitous
banks, we had to hold the wagons back with ropes and let
them down gradually to the bed of the stream; then a
number of men with ropes, on the opposite side, assisted
the teams in drawing the wagons up the steep bank. We
passed over some very fine land to a place we named
Allen's Grove, and camped. Next day we came to the
ruins of a city of the dim, distant past; the stone walls
were yet visible to the traveler. That night we rested on

34 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Beaver Creek. On the 25th or 26th, while traveling
through a beautiful country of rich soil, one wagon with
five or six people was upset into a creek, and the occupants
received a dangerous ducking, though I do not recall any
serious results following.

It was on this day that a messenger from Fort Leaven-
worth overtook us, bringing the sorrowful news of the
death of our esteemed commander, Colonel James Allen.
It was a sad blow to us, for all had learned to respect, and,
indeed, even to love him. Yet I have felt sometimes that
it was a kind providence to him that he was taken from
us, for his nature was too kind and sympathetic to have
forced his men through what the Mormon Battalion had to
endure before reaching its destination.

Colonel Allen's death left a vacancy in the command
that was not difficult to fill according to military rules, as the
next officer in rank should have occupied his place. But
plain as is the military law on the subject, there arose a
dispute, and much feeling was worked up. The council
of officers decided that, as Captain Jefferson Hunt of com-
pany A had been placed in charge by Colonel Allen till the
latter should rejoin the command, he should continue in
that position. Accordingly, he led the battalion to Council
Grove, where it was learned that Lieutenant Colonel Smith
was on the way, intending to assume command. Thus the
quiet of the camp was again disturbed, and much feeling
manifested. There were many warm discussions between
the officers and among the soldiers as well.

It was at Council Grove that Lieutenant Colonel
Smith, Major Walker, and G. B. Sanderson overtook us.
The question of command was further discussed, Captain
Hunt standing up for his rights. But in the council, Cap-
tain Nelson Higgins of Company D (my company) moved
that Smith should be recognized as the commanding officer;
this was seconded by Captain Davis of Company E; all

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 35

the officers but three, viz.: Laron Clark, Samuel Gully,
and Wesley W. Willis, voted for the motion, and the ques-
tion was settled. Lieutenant Colonel A. J. Smith took
command, to the disgust of the soldiers, a large majority of
whom, if not all, were quite dissatisfied. Next day we
reached Diamond Springs, where the battalion was
inspected by Lieutenant Colonel Smith.

At this time there was much sickness in camp, chills
and fever and mumps. This condition was produced by
frequent changes of drinking water, and by poorly-cooked
food, as many times we had to depend on dry weeds for
fuel. When a man became sick, it had been the custom
for him to crawl into the company wagon. Our new com-
mander soon dropped on the kindness of the teamster, and
put an end to it without mercy. The commander was so
rough and ungentle, and had so much pomposity and
assurance, that the whole command was disgusted, and
almost all were angry. He ordered the sick out of the
wagons, and directed that before they could ride they must
be reported by the doctor as unable to walk, and had to
take a dose of the doctor's drugs from his old rusty spoon.
We soon began to realize that we had fallen into bad
hands.

The doctor often talked to the men as though they
were brutes. He was very unfeeling, and the men would
not respond to his sick call ("Jim along, Josey") when it
was possible for them to walk alone. When we stopped
he would sit in front of his tent with his book on his knee,
a long chest of medicine before him, a colored man for his
body servant, and a hospital steward standing in front of
the wagon. At sick call, everyone who could not walk
had to be taken before the doctor's tent, and there be
seated or laid down, sometimes on the wet ground, thenr
like going to a mill, wait for his grist, or dose of calomel.
There was not much chance to miss it, for, when a man's

36 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

name was called and responded to, the hospital steward
was ordered to give him such and such a dose, and the old
iron spoon, with its contents of we knew not what, was
presented in the presence of the doctor. Under these cir-
cumstances we began to feel at least the rigors of military
rule.

About this time we entered the Comanche Indian
country, and on September 2 camped on Cottonwood
Creek. The Indians were said to be very hostile, yet we
had no trouble with them. I think it was here that we
began to see signs of buffalo, and the prairie dog villages.
Timber was very scarce, and the country was more unin-
viting than that we had passed over.

Shortly after Lieutenant Colonel Smith took com-
mand we were drawn up in line, and some military laws
were read to us. At the end of almost every sentence
there was the word death, as punishment for infraction of
the law.- We were then talked to in a most offensive and
domineering manner, until some of us began to wonder
what we had done to merit such severity and downright
abuse.

We were tired and footsore, and suffered much from
lack of water. The country showed such a sameness of
forbidding features that the journey became very monoton-
ous and tiresome. Fuel was so scarce that we had to dig
trenches two or three feet long, and eight or ten inches
wide and a foot deep, fill these with dry grass, and start a
fire and pile on buffalo chips, with which to do our cooking.
The result was our food often was half raw and badly
smoked, and many of the men were brought down with
severe diarrheal complaints. As many had traveled the
road in advance of us, even buffalo chips for fuel were so
scarce that often we had to go for miles to gather them.

When we reached Pawnee Fork we found it a very
difficult stream to cross. The wagons had to be let down

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 37

the steep bank with ropes, by the men, and had to be taken
up the opposite bank in the same manner.

The events narrated here will indicate that it is not all
of a soldier's duty when on a long march to tramp all day
with musket and accoutrements and knapsack, but the
soldier on such a journey as we had must push and pull
wagons up hill, hold them back when going down hill,
haul them through deep sands, and help them and the
teams out of quicksands; he must stand guard and night-
herd stock; must press on, over rough or smooth ground,
rain or shine; must wade rivers, and when crossing
streams is not allowed to take off his clothing, but has^b
plunge into the water, and then travel on in wet clothes;
besides, there are many other experiences that are far from
pleasant.

We pushed along the best we could to the Arkansas
River, through a very uninviting country, in which we
began to find brackish water and saleratus. We traveled
up the broad river bottoms of the Arkansas eighty to one
hundred miles, the water being poor and unhealthy. Many
were added to the corps of "Jim along, Joseys," and had to
be led or carried by their comrades to the unfeeling doctor,
many times to be cursed at by him, and then to take a dose
from his nauseating spoon. Quite a number of the sick
were badly salivated by the drugs given them.

About September 15 or 16, we crossed the river
where the roads fork, one going toward Fort Benton, and
the other leading to Santa Fe. There we parted with
Captain Nelson Higgins, he having been detailed to take a
small squad of men and the families to a Spanish town
called Pueblo, some hundred miles away, there to winter.
Meanwhile, we pushed our way over barren plains and
sandy deserts to the Cimmaron River. We saw deceptive
rivers, ponds and lakes; we chased after them for miles
sometimes, till we found that, like jack o' lantern or will o'

38 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

the wisp, we could not get nearer to them. Finally we
learned that they were mirages — a peculiar reflection of
the sun upon the great plains or sandy deserts. It seemed
impossible for the inexperienced to discern the difference
between the mirage and a body of real water.

In this barren country we saw immense herds of
buffalo; in our long march we came to ponds of water
made perfectly filthy by the buffalo, and rendered offensive
by the broiling hot sun, the liquid being almost as thick as
gruel; but we were so terribly famished with thirst that we
were glad to get even such foul water.

* When the Cimmaron River was reached, there was
good water, and good feed for our stock, but our rations
were reduced one-third, and we were pretty well worn down.

On the 18th or 19th of September it was my place to
be on guard. I had stood the journey very well, but by
this time had become affected by the alkali, and that day
was so badly afflicted with diarrhea as to be almost unable
to drag myself into camp. But rather than march to "Jim
along, Josey," I took my place on guard. That night
there came on one of the most terrible storms I ever have
experienced. I had to brace myself with my musket to
stand. From that date I have never been free from pain
in the right limb, near the instep, caused by the severe
exposure. Next day it became necessary to go on the
sick list, to remain several days.

About the 23rd we began to come to timber in the
hills, and having been for nine or ten days with nothing
but grass and buffalo chips for fuel, we were in a situation
to appreciate the change. Soon we were among 'the sand-
hills, where traveling was hard, and passed the Rabbit
Ears (Black Peak and Agua Fria Peak), two high moun-
tain peaks. In this mountainous region we found traces of
the inhabitants of a past age, in old stone walls and in
numerous irrigation canals long since dry.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 39

On the 2nd or 3rd of October we came to the Red
River. The mountain air was bracing, but there were
many men who yet remained sick. About this time the
command was culled over by Lieutenant Colonel Smith
and the doctor, and all who were considered able to stand
a forced march to Santa Fe were ordered forward on the
double quick.

The sick men were left to take care of themselves as
best they could, with the broken down teams of the com-
mand to look after. My lot was still with the invalids, and
of course I had to remain. Yet we were only about two
days behind the strong men who left us in the mountains;
we reached Santa Fe on October 12th, having passed
through several Mexican villages, the houses of which
were low and flat-roofed, and covered principally with
cement and tile. We saw the very small Mexican sheep
and goats, the people milking the latter, by sitting at the
back end, in an earthen pot, and there milking regardless
of anything that might drop into the vessel intended for
milk only.

From the appearance of Santa Fe we had no reason
to doubt that it was between three and four hundred years
old; for it looked at least that far behind the times. Mexi-
cans and Indians, badly mixed, made up the population.
Their costume, manners, habits, and in fact everything,
were both strange and novel to us, and of course were
quite an attraction. Many of the people looked on us with
suspicion, and if it had been in their power no doubt they
would have given us a warm reception; others appeared
to be pleased, doubtless because it made trade better for
them, and on that account they seemed very friendly.
They brought into camp, for sale, many articles of food;
the strongest of these were red pepper pies, the pepper-
pods as large as a teacup, and onions (savoyas) as large as
saucers, to be eaten raw like turnips.

40 LIFE OF A PIONEER-

A few days' rest and change of food at Santa Fe, and
the command was ready to resume its arduous march.

CHAPTER VI.

EXEMPLARY CONDUCT OF THE MORMON TROOPS-LIEUTENANT COL-
ONEL P. ST. GEORGE COOKE ARRIVES AND ASSUMES COMMAND—
A WELCOME CHANGE— ANOTHER DETACHMENT OF SICK, ALSO
THE LAUNDRESSES, SENT TO PUEBLO- -SELECTING MEN TO CON-
TINUE THE JOURNEY TO CALIFORNIA— REDUCING THE BAGGAGE
—DIFFICULTIES OF THE 1,100 MILES JOURNEY AHEAD-POOR
EQUIPMENT THEREFOR-LEAVE SANTA FE— ROADS OF HEAVY
SAND-ON ONE-THIRD RATIONS-HARDSHIPS INCREASE— GALLED
FEET AND GNAWING STOMACHS -MORE SICK MEN FOR PUEBLO-
LEAVING THE LAST WAGONS— MULES AND OXEN IN A PACK
TRAIN— IN AN UNKNOWN COUNTRY— HUNTING A PASS OVER THE
MOUNTAINS— ALARM OF AN ENEMY— A BEAVER DAM— CROSSING
THE RIO GRANDE DEL NORTE— GREAT SUFFERING AMONG THE
TROOPS.

WHILE we were in Santa Fe, Colonel Sterling Price
came in with his cavalry command, and soon the
town prison was filled with them, so that it became neces-
sary for a guard from the Mormon Battalion to be posted
at the prison. I do not recall that any of our command
was put into the prison, though it is possible one or two
might have been, for a few of them got rather too much
wine; but it was a very few who acted that way. There
were many invalids of other commands left to garrison
Santa Fe, and they caused considerable disturbance, many
of them getting into prison.

It seems that word had gone ahead to the Mexican
town that the Mormons were a very hard class of outlaws,
consequently at first we were looked upon as "toughs" of
the very worst kind. But when the people had an oppor-
tunity to see our superior conduct in contrast with that of

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 4 1

the other troops, they realized the true situation, and male
and female thronged our camp in friendly visit.

It was on October 13, 1846, that Lieutenant Colonel
P. St. George Cooke assumed command of the Mormon
Battalion, having been designated for that purpose, and by
this proceeding we were liberated from the little tyrant
Lieutenant Colonel A. J. Smith.

By order of Colonel Cooke, Captain James Brown of
Company C took command of all the sick that were unable
to continue the journey to California; also of most of the
laundresses, and a few able-bodied men, with directions to
go north to Pueblo, and join Captain Higgins. In order to
determine who were not able to continue the march to Cal-
ifornia, we were drawn up in line, and the officers and Dr,
Sanderson inspected the whole command. The doctor
scrutinized every one of us, and when he said a man was
not able to go, his name was added to Captain Brown's
detachment, whether the man liked it or not; and when
the doctor said a man could make the trip, that settled the
matter. The operation was much like a cooper culling
stave timber, or a butcher separating the lean from the fat
sheep.

My desire was very strong to continue the overland
journey, and wThen the doctor neared me, I braced up and
tried to look brave and hardy. To the doctor's inquiry,
"How do you feel?" my answer was, "First rate." He

looked at me suspiciously and said, "You look d d pale

and weak," then passed on, and I was greatly relieved at
having gone safely through the inspection.

In order No. 8, Colonel Cooke called the particular
attention of the company commanders to the necessity of
reducing baggage as much as possible; that means for
transportation were very deficient; that the road was almost
impracticable, much of it being in deep sand, and how soon
we would have to abandon our wagons it was impossible to

42 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

ascertain; that skillets and ovens could not be taken, and
but one camp-kettle to each mess of ten men.

Colonel Cooke very properly and correctlv pointed
out that everything seemed to conspire to discourage the
extraordinary undertaking of marching the battalion 1,100
miles, for the much greater part of the way through an un-
known wilderness, without road or trail, and with a wagon
train. He said the battalion was much worn by traveling
on foot, marching from Nauvoo, Illinois; their clothing was
very scant, there was no money to pay them, or clothing
to issue; the mules were utterly broken down; the quarter-
master's department was out of funds and its credit bad;
animals were scarce, and those procured were inferior and
deteriorating every hour from the lack of forage. All this
made it necessary that such careful preparation as could
be should be made in advance.

It can be easily seen from this statement that the con-
dition and prospects of the battalion were not very encour-
aging; yet there were very few of the men who had the
least desire to retrace their steps — they knew what they
had passed through, but looking ahead they tried to hope
for the best, realizing, just as they had been told, that the
country through which they had to travel was an unknown
region.

With the colonel's orders carried out, we got ready to
move, and about the 21st of October we left Santa Fe and
traveled six or eight miles to a stream called Agua Fria
(cold water). Grass for animals was very short, the nights
were very cold, and our road was in heavy sand almost
from the start. Our advance was slow, for the best teams
had been taken for extra service or express duties in other
departments. Besides, there was added to our already
overburdened animals the load of sacks, packsaddles, lash-
ing-ropes, etc., necessary in the event of being compelled
to abandon the wagons, so we would not be entirely with-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 43

out means of transportation. There was also the burden
of sheep pelts and blankets to use under pack saddles, and
as most of these were bought second-hand, they were well
stocked with the insects commonly called "greybacks."

In a short time we drew near to the mountains, and
the weather became colder. Having but one blanket each
we began to use the pelts and saddle-blankets to splice out
our scanty store of bedding. Thus we proceeded over
sandy roads, through the towns and villages of Spaniards,
Indians and Greasers — the surroundings presented being of
such a sameness that the journey became very monotonous.

Soon after leaving Santa Fe our rations were reduced
to one-third the regular amount allowed by law to the
soldier. A detail of men was called as a substitute for
mules, to move and to lighten the loads of the ammunition
wagons. Each soldier was required to carry sixty-four
rounds of cartridges that contained each a one-ounce ball,
three buck-shot, and powder enough to send them where
they should be, besides the heavy paper they were wrapped
in, and extra flints for the firelock — about two hundred
ounces added to the already overburdened soldier.

Now the soldier must wade the tributaries of the Rio
Grande del Norte, sometimes waist deep and more, and is
not allowed even to take off his shoes, or any of his wear-
ing apparel. An officer, perched on his white mule on
some point or eminence overlooking the whole command,
with a hawk's eye for keen military experience, calls to this
or that squad of men, with a horrid oath, as if they were
brutes; often he curses the men until they long for a battle
where perchance someone would remember the tyrant with
an ounce ball and three buckshot. And yet, if that feeling
were not quenched in the soldier's bosom it would not re-
quire an engagement with the enemy to accomplish the
deed. But, praise God, that feeling quickly passed off as
the men marched along, their clothes wet, and their thick

44 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

soled cowhide army shoes partly filled with sand — the chaf-
ing and galling of the flesh without and the gnawing and
grinding of the stomach within defied the mind to dwell
upon any one subject for long at a time.

Is it any wonder that under these conditions fifty-five
of our comrades wore down and collapsed so they had to
•go on the sick list and it became necessary for Lieutenant
W. W. Willis to take command of that number of invalid
soldiers, and' join Captains Higgins and Brown at Pueblo?
This company of sick and exhausted men left us, on their
return, about the ioth or 12th of November.

About this time, the quartermaster was ordered to
leave the remaining two heavy ox-wagons, while the com-
pany commanders were directed to reduce their tent-poles
two-thirds; that is, to cast away all the upright poles and
use muskets instead, and to put gores in the back part of
the tents so they could shelter nine men in place of six; we
were also to leave one-third of the campkettles.

Then came some sport in putting packs on a number
of our mules and worn-out oxen. Some of these, which
did not look as though they could travel a hundred miles
further, when the crupper was put in place would rear up,
wheel around, and kick in a most amusing style; nor did
they cease until their strength failed them.

When this sport, if sport it may be called, was over we
began to realize in a small degree the gravity of our situ-
ation. Oar guides were "at sea," so to speak. We were
in an enemy's land, with not a soul in camp who knew any-
thing of the country. Men had been sent ahead to hunt a
route for us to travel, and every time, on their return, they
reported impassable barriers ahead — rough, high, steep
mountains, without springs of water or creeks, or sandy
plains, and barren deserts that it would be impossible to
cross. In this dilemma we had to bear to the south, along
the river, in hopes of finding a pass to the west.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 45

One night, while camped near the Rio Grande del
Norte, we heard a great noise as though a band of horses
were crossing the river. This created quite an alarm, as
there had been rumors of Mexicans revolting. For a short
time it was thought it was Mexican cavalry crossing to
attack us by night, but on the colonel making inquiries of
the guides it was learned that the noise proceeded from
beaver playing in the river. After watching and listening
for a time, all settled down, contented that there was no
enemy at hand.

On resuming our march next day, we passed through
a grove of cottonwood trees, and saw where many of them
had been cut down by the beaver. Some of the trees were
two feet or more in diameter, had been cut off in long sec-
tions, and a surprisingly large dam had been constructed by
the beaver across the river. This dam had caused to be
formed a large pond, in which the beaver congregated at
certain seasons, for sport. Thus the mystery of our mid-
night disturbance was solved to our satisfaction.

We passed along the sandy road to a large bend in the
river, which Colonel Cooke decided was the place where
we would cross the stream. He stationed himself on an abrupt
point of rock, from which he could view the whole proceed-
ing. Men were detailed from each company to follow the
wagons through the river. In order to avoid a rocky ridge
the stream had to be crossed twice within quarter of a mile.
There were very heavy quicksands, and if the teams were
allowed to stop one minute it was doubtful whether the)7
could start again; consequently the precaution of having
men close at hand was very important, though the average
soldier did not understand the real reason for forcing him
into the water without stripping off at least part of his rai-
ment.

The crossing was made early in the day, and the water
was very cold, as I had ample evidence, being one of those

46 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

detailed to attend the wagons. Our comrades took our
muskets over the point while we lifted at the wagons. As
the water was waist deep, when the men would stoop to
lift it would wet our clothing very nearly to the armpits;
our shoes also were filled with sand.

Wet and cold, almost chilled, we continued our march
through deep sands, pushing and pulling at the wagons till
our clothing dried on our bodies, our shoes became so dry
and hard that walking was very painful and difficult, and
our feet became raw. If this had been all, we might have
had less reason to complain; but when an irritated officer
(not all the officers pursued such a reprehensible course,
but a few of them did) swore at us as if we were brutes,
when we were already burdened almost beyond endurance,
it is no wonder there was an impulsive desire to retaliate.
For my own part, my feelings never were so outraged, and
the desire for revenge never ran so high and wild as then.
But we cooled down, though our physical sufferings were
not lessened; as we tramped on through the sands we be-
came so weak it was almost impossible to keep our ankles
from striking together as we walked, and our hard and dry
shoetops would cut our ankles till the blood came.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 47

CHAPTER VII.

PUSHING TO THE LWEST— OVERHEARING A CONVERSATION WITH COL.
COOKE— THE COLONEL FEARS THE MEN WILL STARVE- NO BER-
RIES, NOT EVEN BARK OF TREES, FOR FOOD— TRUE STATE OF
AFFAIRS AS TO THE OUTLOOK KEPT FROM MOST OF THE TROOPS
—HIDES, INTESTINES, AND EVEN SOFT EDGES OF HOOFS AND
HORNS OF ANIMALS EATEN— "BIRD'S EYE SOUP."— IN A SNOW-
STORM—RELICS OF ANCIENT INHABITANTS— CAMPING WITHOUT
WATER— OLD SILVER AND COPPER MINES— HARDEST DAY OF THE
JOURNEY— MEN APPEAR AS IF STRICKEN WITH DEATH— THE
AVRITER SO ILL AS TO BE UNABLE TO TRAVEL LONGER, AND
EXPECTS TO DIE— UNCLE ALEXANDER STEPHENS COMES WITH
WATER AND REVIVES HIM— AWFUL SUFFERING IN CAMP— RE-
PORTED SICK NEXT MORNING— BRUTAL DR. SANDERSON GIVES A
DEADLY DOSE OF LAUDANUM, BUT THE WRITER VOMITS IT AFTER
BEING MADE FEARFULLY SICK— IN TERRIBLE DISTRESS FOR DAYS
—HEALED BY THE LAYING ON OF HANDS OF THE ELDERS OF THE
CHURCH OF JESUS CHRIST OF LATTER-DAY SAINTS.

IT was but a little while after this that we left the Rio
Grande del Norte, and pressed on toward the west.
One day, while passing up a brushy canyon, my place being
with the advance guard, in the rear of the road hands, I
had occasion to step into the brush by the roadside. While
there, out of sight, Col. Cooke and staff and guides came
along and stopped right opposite me, so close that I dared
not move lest they should see me. As they came up, the
colonel inquired of the guides if there were no fruit or
berries that men could live on; the reply was, no, not a
thing. They were talking about some place ahead that
the guides were acquainted with. The colonel then asked
if there were no trees that had bark something like elm
bark, which men could live on for a few days; but the
answer was that there was neither fruit, roots nor bark,
that the country was a barren waste.

Upon receiving this information, the colonel exclaimed,

48 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

"What can we do?" In response, the suggestion was that
the guides did not know unless some of the stronger men
and mules were sent on a forced march to the first place in
California, where they could get a bunch of beef cattle and
meet us on the desert with them. There was some further
conversation, when it was ended by the colonel exclaiming,
with a despairing oath, "I expect the men will starve to
death!"

The deep gloom of sadness hung over those who
knew of the situation. All of the men, however, were not
informed of the gravity of the position we were in. At
that time we were drawing less than half rations. The
fresh meat we had was more like glue or jelly than beef.
The plan had been adopted of slaughtering the weak cattle
first, so that the stronger animals could travel faster. When
an animal became too weak to hold up one end of a yoke,
or to carry a packsaddle, it was slaughtered, and the flesh
issued to the men. Not a scrap of the animal would be
left on the ground; the hide, intestines — all was eaten; even
the tender or soft edges of the hoofs and horns would be
roasted, and gnawed at so long as a human being possibly
could draw subsistence therefrom. Many times we were
without water to wash the offal. The bones would be
carried along, broken up, and boiled and re-boiled, in some
instances as long as there could be seen a single "bird's e3Te"
(the name given to solitary spots of grease that would come
to the surface) of grease rise on the water; then each man
was eager for his share.

Sometimes cattle became so weak that men were left
with them to come up to the command after night. On
one occasion, when an old ox could not be got into camp
and had to be left four or five miles back, men were sent
bright and early next morning, to bring him in. It snowed
that night, and in camp things generally were disagreeable.
The ox was brought in, slaughtered, and issued to us for

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 49

rations. If any man had failed to get his share of that
white ox at that time there might have been a row, but a
fair distribution maintained peace. The place of our camp
was called White Ox Creek, and we laid by for. one day to
rest and refresh ourselves.

From there we traveled over a rough country, but one
that evidently had been inhabited ages ago, for we found
stone walls, pottery by the acre, and old and dry canals —
their former source of water having disappeared. We
found in a rock a deep and large hole with water sufficient
to supply the command; we secured it by drawing all night,
until everything was watered. Then we moved on, and
next night camped without water. We passed many old
mines, supposed to be of silver and copper, and there were
said to be gold mines in the vicinity. Late at night we
traveled, and were on the march early the following morn-
ing. All day we pressed forward as rapidly as possible,
there being no water, and late at night the command came
to a place called Dry Lake.

That was the hardest day for me that came in the ex-
perience of the whole journey. I had been run down so
low with a severe attack of dysentery that I could travel no
longer, and laid down. My thirst was intense, and it did
not seem possible that I could live till morning. It seemed
that everyone was traveling as best he could, for the rear-
guard passed me without taking any notice. Men went by,
looking like death, their mouths black, their eyes sunken till
it was difficult to recognize them. Some eyes had a staring
glare, which looked as if the monster death were close at
hand. Yet the men staggered on, their feet hitting each
other, tit for tat, as one was dragged past the other. The
hopes of these men were greater than mine, for I had ceased
to march. This wras the first time I had felt there was lit-
tle reason to hope that I would ever reach camp again, for
I supposed that all the men had passed me. The sun's rays

50 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

L

faded away on the eastern mountain tops, and the brigh
orb dropped beneath the western horizon. For a moment
I felt that with me the vital spark would soon sink below
the mortal horizon, as if to accompany the king of day.

Just when my hopes were flickering as does a can-
dle when the wick has all but burned out, there came to
my ears the sound as of the tinkling of a tin can that seemed
to keep time with a soldier's step as he marched. Gradually
the sound became more distinct until its approach was a
certainty. Then my uncle, Alexander Stephens, came in
sight. He had been left to bring up an old spotted ox which
had failed, and had driven the animal into the shade of a
rocky cliff, where the ox laid down, while the driver hunted
around and found a dripping of water as it seeped from a
crevice in the rock. He had quenched his thirst and filled
his canteen, resting in the meantime, then followed on the
trail, pricking the ox with his bayonet.

When Uncle Alexander Stephens came up he handed
me his canteen, and the draught of water quickly revived
me. I did not think myself able to rise to my feet, but with
a little assistance I got up, and took hold of the packsaddle.
My knapsack, musket and accoutrements were lashed to the
ox, and by a final effort we reached Dry Lake camp, by
halting at short intervals along the four miles we had to
travel.

Wretched, wretched indeed, was the condition of the
command that night. It is doubtful whether at any time
in the long march the men suffered more than they did then
and the forty-eight hours preceding. Next morning, at the
doctor's call, many had to be helped by their comrades to
the place designated for the sick.

For myself, two men sat me upon the ground, and held
me up till my time came to be questioned. Dr. Sanderson
called out, "What is the matter with you?" When he re-
ceived the information asked for he remarked gruffly: "I've

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 5 1

a d d great mind not to report you sick. I never saw

such a d d set of men in my life. They will not report

till d d nigh dead." I answered that it did not matter

to me whether he entered me on the sick list or not, for I

could not walk. At this he said sharply. "Not a d d

word out of you or I'll make you walk."

Then he ordered the steward to give me a dose of
castor oil and laudanum, stating the quantity. The steward,
William Spencer, said, "Isn't it a rather heavy dose?" to
which the doctor responded with a curse, telling him to do
as he was ordered. At that the dose was poured into a tea-
cup, filling it half full. It was given to me, the steward say-
ing in a low tone of voice, "If you do not throw it up it will
kill you." I was assisted back to the company's wagon,
and soon vomited the medicine, but not until it had changed
my countenance so much that the lieutenant of my company,
Cyrus Canfield, did not know me. He came and ordered
me out of the wagon, telling me to go to my own company.
It was sometime before he could be convinced who I really
was, then remarked that I looked so near dead that he could
not believe it was I. But when he recognized me he was
very kind, and was willing to do anything he could for my
relief.

For four days I lay in a dull stupor, when that phase
of the disease was checked, and a very high fever set in.
My sufferings were so terrible that some of my messmates
came into the tent, anointed me with oil, then administered
to or prayed for me; and although burning with a high
fever till it seemed that I could not live, I was instantly
healed, so that when they took their hands off the fever was
entirely gone, and I was wet with perspiration. From that
time I began to gather strength. That was my first experi-
ence with the ordinance of healing by the laying on of hands
by the Elders of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day
Saints.

52 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

CHAPTER VIII.

ON THE SUMMIT OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS-CROSSING THE BACKBONE
OF THE NORTH AMERICAN CONTINENT— REVIEW OF THE JOUR-
NEY-GRAVES OPENED 15 Y WOLVES -MUTILATED BODIES-AN UN-
PARALLELED JOURNEY OF HARDSHIP— THE PROSPECT AHEAD— A
MATTER OF LIFE AND DEATH— START DOWN THE PACIFIC SLOPE-
DESCENDING THE CUFFS WITH WAGONS— ONE VEHICLE SLIPS
AND IS REDUCED TO KINDLING WOOD AND SCRAP IRON— INTO A
NEW CLIMATE— CHANGE IN THE CHARACTER OF VEGETATION-
WILD HORSES AND CATTLE— ATTACKED BY WILD CATTLE— SEV-
ERAL MEN HURT AND ONE MULE GORED TO DEATH— A NUMBER
OF CATTLE KILLED— SUPPLY OF BEEF— REACH THE SAN PEDRO
RIVER— TRAVELING THROUGH A HEAVY GROWTH OF MESQUIT
AND CHAPPARAL— APPROACH THE MEXICAN GARRISONED TOWN
OF. TUCSON— NEWS OF APPROACH OF A LARGE AMERICAN ARMY
SENT TO THE MEXICANS— ORDER ISSUED BY COLONEL COOKE.

AT the camp at Dry Lake, which we reached between
November 20 and 25, we laid over a day, and a party
was sent ahead to cut a road over the divide. I was too
weak for four or five days to take much interest in what
passed; and in the meantime the command reached and
crossed the divide, or summit of the Rocky Mountains —
the backbone of the North American continent — where the
waters are divided, flowing on either side to the Atlantic
and Pacific respectively.

For eighteen hundred miles the Mormon Battalion
members had made a hard and weary march. Starting
from Nauvoo, on the Mississippi River — the "father of
waters" — as exiles, they had passed over a lovely country,
yet at a season of the year when travel was difficult, to the
Missouri River. At the latter point the battalion was
mustered into service, and moved over an excellent country
two hundred miles to Fort Leavenworth; thence through
what is now the state of Kansas, passing over a goodly land

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 53

to the Great Plains, a timberless country, where water is
scarce. There they began to be footsore and leg-weary,
and to suffer severely from heat and thirst. Soon they
came to the desert, and for nine days tried cooking their
shortened rations over "buffalo chip" fires, with fuel even
scarcer than it was poor; often having very little water,
and that brackish, so that men and hearts began to grow
weak and ill.

At this point in the long journey they commenced
passing the open graves of soldiers, many of whom laid
down their lives in the advance companies. Their graves
were open for the reason that wolves had dug up the dead
bodies and devoured the flesh from the bones; the blankets
in which the bodies were wrapped were torn to shreds,
while in some instances the carcass still hung together, ex-
cept that the fingers and toes had been eaten off by wild
beasts. The road was also strewn with dead horses and
cattle, so that as the battalion advanced the gruesome
sights became more frequent and therefore excited less
comment. And in turn the battalion contributed a share
of dead to the lonely graves of the plains.

Then, on the sandy roads, there was the rough order
to put the shoulder to the wheel and help the jaded teams;
and the battalion waded creeks and rivers with quicksand
bottoms, or lifted or pulled at ropes in lowering or raising
their wagons over rough and precipitous places — in what
appeared at that time a rough and worthless country, which
may not have changed greatly since.

At times they were called forward to tramp sand
roads for teams, and then to return and pull at ropes or
push at wagons which, without assistance, the teams could
not control. Then when Santa Fe was passed the journey
was proceeded upon with reduced rations, down the difficult
country along the Rio Grande del Nortel Onward the
struggle continued, over sandy deserts and through a

54

LIFE OF A PIONEER.

rough, mountainous region, where the hardships were
intense, and where there seemed no eye to pity and no
hand to pass even a drop of water to moisten the parch-
ing tongue. It was not human capability, it was the divine
power that sustained them in such extremities as they had
to endure.

It was thus the renowned Mormon Battalion toiled and
struggled on their journey to the summit of the lofty
Rocky Mountain range — the crest of the continent — a
journey whose details of privation, and peril, and patient
courage, cannot be told in human words, and never can be
realized except by those who experienced it. So many lofty
mountain spurs had been crossed, that the final ascent
seemed quite gradual.

Leaving now this general survey of the past, I recall
that from the lofty eminence we had reached on our march,
the descent was very abrupt and difficult, through the rug-
ged defiles to the west. But with the battalion it was a
case of life and death. That was no place to remain, there
was no earthly help at hand, no way to life open but to
trust in God and persevere in the onward movement. So
with the pick-axe and crow-bar we commenced to clear the
most feasible road down by chopping away the shrubbery
and brush and removing that and the rocks.

After much of the baggage had been taken down the
mountain one way by pack animals, long ropes and guy-
ropes were attached to the wagons and the descent with
them began by another way. The wagons were lowered
for a distance of half a mile or so, men standing as best
they could on the mountain side, letting the vehicle down
gradually, then holding it till other men could get a fresh
footing and lower it still further. Thus one by one the
wagons were let down in safety, all but one. By some
mishap that got adrift from the men, and to save their lives
they had to let it go until there was nothing of it but scrap-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 55

iron and kindling-wood. As there was already an abund-
ance of the latter around us, no one was desirous of de-
scending to the rugged depths of the ravine to secure even
a relic of that terrible descent.

It was thought by our commander and guides that it
would require from six to eight days to make the descent,
but thanks to the tact and skill of some of our men who
had been accustomed to frontier life, the work was done in
two days, and we were again where the wagons could stand
on partially level ground.

In a very brief space of time we found ourselves
plunged into a warm climate, where we could not see any
plant or shrub that we had been acquainted with before.
There was some small, scrubby ash, sycamore and black
walnut, but everything, even to the rocks, had a strange
appearance. We also had entered the land of wild horses
and cattle, which roamed the hills by thousands. The wild
cattle became excited at the rumbling wagons, and gath-
ered thickly along our way.

At last the muskets commenced to rattle, partly
through fear, and partly because we wanted beef. Finally
a herd of wild cattle charged our line, tossed some men
into the air, pierced others with their horns, knocking some
down, and ran over others, attacking one light wagon, the
hind end of which was lifted clear from the road. One
large bull plunged into a six-mule team, ran his head under
the off-swing mule, throwing him entirely over the near
one and thrusting his horn into the mule's vitals, injuring
our animal so it had to be left on the ground, where it ex-
pired in a few minutes. There were several men and
mules roughly used and bruised, just the number I do not
now recall. The attacking party lost twenty or twenty-
five of their number killed, with many others badly or
slightly wounded.

We had plenty of beef for a few days, and might have

56 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

secured much more. I never understood the reason why
we were not allowed to lay by and '-jerk" an abundance
of meat for the subsequent use of the command, but the
stop was not permitted. Many of the men felt greatly dis-
appointed and indignant because we were denied the priv-
ilege of availing ourselves of this splendid opportunity of
replenishing our scanty rations. We were half starving
at the time, and perhaps if we had been allowed to lay by
a few days we would have gorged ourselves to our injury.
It may be that would have been more serious than to have-
stormed, as some did, at being ordered to march on. It is
possible this was the view taken by our commander, though
we never knew.

Continuing our advance to lower levels, the climate
was mild and pleasant. Our course was northwesterly un-
til we passed a deserted ranch called San Bernardino, in
what is now Arizona, and followed down the San Pedro
River. I think this was the south fork of the Gila River.
There was some good country along this lovely stream. It
was there we first saw the mescal and mesquit, the former
being the plant from which the Mexicans distil their whis-
ky (pulque), the latter a tree somewhat resembling the
black locust, but growing with a very spreading habit, mak-
ing it difficult to travel among. In many places it had to
be cut down and cleared away before we could proceed.
There was another scrubby tree-growth which the Span-
iards call chapparal. This brush grew very thick in places,
so that in cutting it away travel became very tedious.

Here the guides told Colonel Cooke that if we followed
along the stream it would be a hundred miles farther than
if we cut across the bend, but if we took the latter route
we would have to pass through a Mexican fortified town,
where a body of soldiers had been left to guard it as an
outpost. At that time it was impossible for us to learn the
strength of the place; but it was thought that we might get

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 57

some supplies of provisions and some animals. At the
same time there was considerable risk that we would have
to fight, and perhaps get defeated, in which case it would
be not only a loss of property but of life as well.

On December 12 and 13 we followed down the
San Pedro, our course being nearly due north, near the
base of a mountain extending towards the Gila River. The
guide, Leroux, with others, returned from an exploration of
the table-land to the west, leading to Tucson. They found
a party of Apache Indians and some Mexicans distilling
mescal, and learned from them that the Mexican garrison
at Tucson numbered about two hundred men. The inter-
preter with the guides, Dr. Foster, had thought it proper
to go to Tucson, and Leroux told the Mexicans to inform the
commander at Tucson that an American army was approach-
ing en route to California; that the advance guard num-
bered about three hundred and sixty men, and if it stopped
to drill it would give time for the main army to come up;
that the strength of the main army could be judged by the
size of its vanguard; and that if Foster did not rejoin the
advance guard by a given time it would be understood that
he was a prisoner at Tucson. Upon learning what had
been done and said, Colonel Cooke issued the following
order :

"Headquarters Mormon Battalion, Camp on the San
Pedro, Dec. 13, 1846.

"Thus far on our course to California we have followed
the guides furnished us by the general. These guides
now point to Tucson, a garrison town, as on our road, and
assert that any other course is one hundred miles out of the
way, and over a trackless wilderness of mountains, rivers
and hills. We will march then to Tucson. We came not
to make war on Sonora, and less still to destroy an import-
ant outpost of defense against Indians. But we will take
the straight road before us and overcome all resistance, but
4

58 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

shall I remind you that the American soldier ever shows
justice and kindness to the unarmed and unresisting? The
property of individuals you will hold sacred; the people of
Sonora are not our enemies.

"By order of Lieutenant Colonel Cooke.

"P. C. Merrill, Adjutant."

CHAPTER IX.

ON THE TRAIL TO TUCSON— EXCITEMENT IN THE TOWN— MEET MEXI-
CAN SOLDIERS— OUR NUMBERS OVERRATED BY THE INDIANS-
MEXICAN COMMANDER UNDER ORDERS TO OPPOSE US— COLONEL
COOKE ANNOUNCES HIS WISH TO PASS ON WITHOUT HOSTILI-
TIES—ARREST OF CORPORAL CASSADURAN, SON OF THE MEXI-
CAN COMMANDER AT TUCSON, AND OTHER MEXICANS WHO ARE
HELD AS HOSTAGES FOR THE RETURN OF OUR INTERPRETER—
THE INTERPRETER IS LIBERATED -AN ARMISTICE PRO POS ED-
SURRENDER OF TUCSON DEMANDED— MEXICAN PRISONERS RE-
LEASED—SURRENDER IS REFUSED— COLONEL COOKE ORDERS THE
BATTALION TO PREPARE FOR BATTLE -ADVANCE TOWARD THE
TOWN— FLIGHT OF THE MEXICANS— AT THE GATES OF TUCSON—
OUR LINE OF BATTLE— ADDRESS BY COLONEL COOKE— WE ENTER
THE TOWN, AND PASS THROUGH TO CAMP— PURCHASES OF
WHEAT, CORN, ETC.— THE BATTALION NEARLY STARVED— NIGHT
ALARM OF A MEXICAN ATTACK— DIFFICULTIES OF GETTING INTO
LINE— NO ENEMY IN SIGHT— START ACROSS THE GILA DESERT-
AGONY ON THE BURNING SANDS AND ALKALI FLATS— STRENGTH-
ENED BY THE DIVINE BLESSING— REACH THE GILA RIVER.

ON the 14th the battalion ascended to the plateau,
traveling up hill for eight or nine miles, when it
struck the trail leading to Tucson. Colonel Cooke selected
fifty men, with whom he pushed forward. Passing the
vanguard, he soon reached water, where he found four or
five Mexican soldiers cutting grass. Their arms and sad-
dles were on their horses near by, easily accessible to our

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 59

men. But these had no wish to molest them, and the
Mexicans appeared to pay little attention to us.

The colonel learned from a Mexican sergeant that
rumors of a large force of American troops coming had
reached Tucson, and great excitement prevailed in the
town. Of course the colonel, who was possessed of general-
ship as well as a stern sense of discipline, took no pains to
disabuse the Mexicans' minds, and thus possibly expose our
little army to unnecessary peril. Indians who had seen us
from a distance had overestimated largely our numbers,
and thus served to impress the people of Sonora with the
accuracy of the statement made by the guides.

The colonel also learned from the Mexican sergeant
that the commander of the garrison had orders from the
governor not to allow any armed force to pass through the
town without resistance. A message was therefore sent to
the commander by this same sergeant, saying that the
people need not be alarmed, as we were their friends and
would do them no harm, as we wished merely to purchase
supplies and pass on.

The next day we traveled about twelve miles, passing
a distillery, and camped without water. The battalion
marched in front of the wagons, to protect the provisions.
Here a new (to us) species of cactus proved very trouble-
some. It was jointed, and when an animal rubbed against
the thorns it broke loose at the joints, and sections about
three inches long would stick fast to the animal. The
same variety of cactus is found in southern Utah.

This day a corporal, the son of Cassaduran, commander
of the Mexican post at Tucson, and three Mexican soldiers
were met with. They showed no signs of fear until
Colonel Cooke ordered them arrested, when they seemed
terribly frightened. On arriving at our camp, the corporal
was questioned by the commander as to Dr. Foster. He
said (and it proved to be true) that Foster was under

60 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

guard, but had been requested earnestly to come with
them, and had refused. He had feigned indignation at being
arrested, lest the Mexicans should be suspicious as to our
numbers and should get reinforcements and fight us. As
he anticipated, his conduct inspired them with terror.

One of the Mexican prisoners was released and sent
to the garrison with two of the guides, one of whom took
a note to the commander of the post, demanding Foster's
release and stating that the other three Mexicans were
held as hostages. About midnight, Dr. Foster was brought
into camp by two officers, one of whom was authorized to
arrange a special armistice.

Colonel Cooke sent a proposition to the Mexican com-
mander that he deliver up a few arms as a guaranty of
surrender, and that the inhabitants of Tucson would not
fight against the United States, unless released as prisoners
of war. The Mexican prisoners also were released. Our
camp at this time was about sixteen miles from Tucson;
and on our advance the following day, when a few miles
out, a cavalryman met us with a note from Captain Cassa-
duran, declining the proposition to surrender. We were
thereupon ordered to load our muskets and prepare for an
engagement. We had not traveled far, however, before
two other Mexicans met us, with the news that the garrison
at Tucson had fled, and had forced most of the inhabitants
to leave the town. They also had taken two brass pieces
of artillery with them. A little later in the day, about a
dozen well armed men, probably soldiers in citizens' dress,
met and accompanied the battalion to Tucson. But before
passing through the gates a halt was ordered.

That morning, when we were striking camp for the
march into Tucson, Dr. Sanderson opened up again by

remarking that "every d d man who could stand alone

ought to fall into line." Our first move was to form ranks
with everything in proper order to make an assault or re-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 6l

ceive a charge. Then we moved out in line of battle.
When within three or four miles of the fort a stop was
made, we were faced to the right, and the command came
to forward march, double-quick time. At that the whole
column moved on a smart trot. Some of us, at least,
thought we were advancing upon an enemy that had been
discovered by the commander; but when we had gone
pell-mell over cobblerock and gullies, through brush and
cactus, for a distance of nearly three quarters of a mile, we
received the command to halt. Then came orders to left
face, file left, march. This move brought us back into the
road, where we filed to the right and marched on to the
fort.

At the gates of the fort, Colonel Cooke made a brief
speech, stating that the soldiers and citizens had fled, leav-
ing their property behind and in our power; that we had
not come to make war on Sonora; and that there must not
be any interference with the private property of the citi-
zens.

We then marched through the town, where a few
aged men and women and some children brought us water
and other small tokens of respect. We made no halt in
the village, which had contained some four or five hundred
inhabitants, of which number all but about a hundred had
fled. Our stop was made about half a mile down stream
from the place.

In the town we made purchases of wheat, corn, beans
and peas, which we parched or boiled. We were so
near starved that we could not wait for this food to be more
than half cooked before we ate it. There was no general
supply purchased at Tucson, but each man or mess ob-
tained as much as could be with the scanty means on hand.

On the night of December 17, Albern Allen and his
son Rufus C. Allen had been placed on picket guard above
Tucson, with orders that if any body of men, say ten or

62 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

more, appeared, an alarm was to be fired, and the guards
were to run into camp. Sometime between midnight and
two o'clock a body of Mexicans put in an appearance, and the
alarm was given as ordered. The bugle sounded at
the colonel's quarters, and soon Lieutenant George Oman,
who was officer of the day, rushed through the camp,
shouting, "Beat that drum; if you cannot beat the drum,
beat the fife!" The drum-major, R. D. Sprague, obeyed
the order, and hit the drum. Immediately the stern voice
of the colonel shouted to cease that music. In less time
than it takes to tell it, lights sprang up through the camp.
Then came the sharp command from the colonel, "Dust
those fires!" and the flames went out; the adjutant rushed
through the camp with orders to the officers to form their
companies into line, the men were commanded to fall in,
and all was rustle and bustle.

The writer had been up relieving his stomach of half-
boiled wheat, corn and peas, and had just got settled back
in bed when the alarm was fired, so he heard all that was
going on. As we all slept in our pantaloons, the first thing I
thought of in that country of prickly pears was my boots;
and while reaching for these and bumping heads with
comrades, some of the men whose muskets were used for
uprights for the tent thought these the first articles in the
emergency and seized them, the tent coming down and the
ridge-pole making another bump on heads. At the
same time we were all trapped in the fallen tent, which was
pinned down tight. I was trying to get the left boot on
the right foot, and my footwear being rather small I had no
easy job. All being caught in the tent-trap, the thought
came how easy it would be for a body of Mexican cavalry
in a charge to cut us to pieces, and we soon burst through
the tent and fell into line.

For the first time in the whole march the writer
brought up the rear in getting to his place, and received a

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 63

rebuke from the officer in command, George P. Dykes.
Right here, however, in that brief experience, I learned a
lesson I have never forgotten, namely, order in dressing
and undressing. We had been in the habit of putting our
clothing anywhere and each throwing his on top of an-
other's, if convenience appeared to suggest it, so that in the
dark it was difficult for each to get into his own raiment.
I realized then how important it was to have "a place for
everything and everything in its place;" hence to put every
article of wearing apparel down so that in the darkest hour
of night I knew where to place my hand on it, and when
•j.1 armed always to have my weapons in the best possible
order and where the hand might be laid on them without
any mistakes.

Notwithstanding all the confusion, it seemed to me we
were in line of battle in very short order, awaiting an at-
tack of Mexican cavalry. There was a few minutes' breath-
less silence after we were ready for the assault, and no
enemy appearing, reconnoiterirg parties were sent out to
ascertain the true situation. We were held in readiness an
hour or more, then learning that everything was quiet, were
permitted to retire to our tents, but not without some ap-
prehension of danger until the dawn of day, which came
bright and peaceful, and we began our march out on what
was known as the Ninety-five Mile Desert, which lay be-
tween us and the Gila River.

After the first day's march on that awful stretch of
barren waste, we began to straggle along, and before the
Gila was reached the command was scattered along on the
clay beds and sand strips for twenty miles. We traveled
night and day, not stopping at any one place more than
six hours.

The command was in a most deplorable condition on
this journey. Many were the men that lay down by the way-
side without a hope that they would live to reach water,

64 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

and often thinking that they were behind the command.
But after they had rested for a few hours and perhaps dozed
long enough to dream that they died on the desert, and
that the wolves that were howling around were dragging
their emaciated carcasses over the sands or perchance
in the alkali pools, so strongly impregnated with
poisonous stuff that it would consume, in a short time, the
flesh if not the bones also, then the thought of home and
loved ones would come; and what was sometimes last,
though not the least, would be the memory of the promises
which the servants of God had made when we left the
dear ones of home. Then the worn and weary soldier
would stagger to his feet, survey the surroundings, and
perhaps would catch sight, in the distance, of some comrade
who was staggering and reeling onward toward the setting
sun, and would follow in his path.

So the almost dead soldier would go on, his feet play-
ing pit-a-pat as they dragged past each other, until his
limbs would refuse to carry him farther, and down he
would go and repeat the agonizing experience of a few
hours previous. He would also chew a buckshot or
two to induce moisture in his parching tongue, and would
offer an earnest prayer from his humble soul — a further ex-
ertion which he would not have brought his wearied mind
to do if it had not been for the confidence he placed in the
promises of God, made through His faithful servants.

Thus, dear reader, the renowned Mormon Battalion
passed forward across the great Gila Desert, almost with-
out a human reason to hope that they would reach the goal,
and only able to accomplish their aim through divine grace.
When they succeeded in reaching the banks of the river,
their clothes were so tattered and torn that it was with dif-
ficulty they could cover their nakedness.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 65

CHAPTER X.

ON THE GILA RIVER— PIMA INDIAN TILLAGE— WELCOME GIFTS FROM
THE PIMAS— AMONG THE MARICOPA INDIANS— ASLEEP ON THE
TRAIL— VISIT FROM A BEAR— LOSS OF PROVISIONS THROUGH AN
ATTEMPT TO FLOAT A QUANTITY DOWN THE GILA— HARD TRAVEL-
ING—CROSSING THE COLORADO RIVER— GLOOM IN THE CAMP-
LOWER AND UPPER CALIFORNIA— TERRIBLE MARCH OVER THE
TIERRACALIENTE, OR HOT LANDS— DIGGING WELLS FJR BRACKISH
WATER— ADVANCE GUARD REACH A MOUNTAIN SPRING— WATER
CARRIED BACK TO REVIVE THE FAINTING TROOPS— LAST SPOON-
FUL OF FLOUR USED— DIVIDING THE RATIONS— IN THE CANYONS
OF THE SIERRA NEVADA— HEWING ROADS THROUGH ROCKS AND
BRUSH— FEEDING ON LIVE ACORNS AND GREEN MUSTARD— NEWS
OF VICTORIES BY UNITED STATES TROOPS IN CALIFORNIA -PRE-
PARING TO ENGAGE THE RETIRING MEXICAN ARMY— FIRST HOUSE
SEEN IN CALIFORNIA— BEEF WITHOUT SALT-TRADE FOR ACORN
MUSH—HEAVY STORM AND FLOOD IN CAMP— A FEW POUNDS OF
FLOUR SECURED— DANCING IN MUD AND WATER— RECEIVE OR-
DERS TO GO TO LOS ANGELES— DISCOVER A BODY OF TROOPS IN
LINE OF BATTLE— ADVANCE TO THE ATTACK— SUPPOSED FOE
PROVES TO BE FRIENDLY INDIANS— PRESENCE OF THE MORMON
BATTALION PREVENTS AN INTENDED ATTEMPT BY MEXICANS
TO RETAKE CALIFORNIA, ALSO AN UPRISING OF CALIFORN'IANS
AGAINST THE UNITED STATES— ON A BATTLEFIELD WHERE GEN-
ERAL KEARNEY HAD FOUGHT— RELICS OF THE ENCOUNTER-
PROPHECY OF PRESIDENT BRIGHAM YOUNG AND ITS FULFILL-
MENT—SOURCE OF HIS INSPIRATION.

WHERE we reached the Gila River it was a lovely
stream, four or rive rods wide; but the country
was covered with alkali grass and mesquit brush. We
•rested part of a day, then proceeded down the river eight
or ten miles, coming to a Pima Indian village. The Pima
Indians were superior to any that we had fallen in with
heretofore. They were an agricultural people, peacefully
inclined, and kind and loving toward each other. Those in
ihe village appeared the picture of good health. They

66 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

came and went by twos, the males and females keepings
each sex, to themselves. They seemed the most affection-
ate people I had ever met; happy and innocent in appear-
ance— a large and handsome class of persons. Each
Indian was wrapped in a large home-made blanket.

The Pimas had corn, wheat, pumpkins, beans, and,
I think, peas. Some of the Indians noted our wretched
and starved condition, and cut up a lot of pumpkins— as we
cut them for cows. These they boiled, and handed to the
soldiers as the latter passed by and took the proffered food
in anything they could get to hold the steaming hot vege-
tables. The men were indeed thankful for these favors,
although they came from Indians.

It was between the 20th and 25th of December when
we left the Pima Indian village, and passed down the Gila
River to a broad, open, fertile valley in the Maricopa
Indian country. At the Maricopa Indian villages we met
many fine specimens of the native inhabitants. We traded
brass buttons for food. One brass button had more pur-
chasing power than a five dollar gold piece.

It was some five or six days before we passed out of
the Maricopas' farming country. There was a large bend
in the river, and we traveled three days over a rough,,
sandy country before we came to the stream again. On
this march we camped without water. The writer was one
of those who stood guard around the stock. The feed was-
so scarce that we were kept running all night. I was so
completely worn out next day that at about eleven a. m. I
sought rest by dropping out of the command and hiding
from the rearguard behind a clump of brush that grew on
a sand knoll. No sooner had I laid down than I fell into a
sound slumber, oblivious to all danger.

When the writer awakened from that sleep the rear-
guard had passed on long before; the sun had changed
position so that the drowsy soldier felt perfectly lost, but

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 67

gradually he came to realize that it was three or four
o'clock p. m. Some six or eight feet from where he had
been lying he found fresh bear tracks, telling him of the
wild beast that had been viewing him while wrapt in slum-
ber. He hurried forward on the trail, and reached camp
just as the night guards were being posted and his com-
rades were becoming greatly concerned for his safety.

Our route lay down the river, through deep sand and
mesquit brush, where we had not only to chop and clear
away the brush, but had to push and pull the wagons until
our souls as well as our bodies were worn out. We
gathered mesquit and a kind of pod to feed our mules. We
were six days traveling sixty miles, to the crossing of the
Colorado River, or Red River, as it was called by some.

The reader will not wonder that on reaching this
point a mountain of gloom rested upon the whole command,
causing the men almost to despair as they, on the ioth day
of January, 1847, stood on the banks of the swift-flowing
Colorado — the stream being half a mile wide at that place —
with no alternative but to wade across, pulling and pushing
at the wagons, then to cut and burn their way out, through
the thick brush on the bottom land, to the bench or bluff
that opened out on a barren desert, known to the Mexicans
as Tierra Caliente, or the Hot Lands.

Now the command entered upon another soul-trying
march. The route from the crossing of the Colorado was
over the northeast corner of Lower California, some sixty
miles above the Gulf of California, then into the south-
eastern part of Upper California. The stronger men, with
a little extra ration, preceded the main army, to dig wells
in the desert.

No sooner was the almost hopeless march commenced
than men began to lag behind, so that when the advance
guard came to a halt at an)' part of the journey, others
were miles behind. The first day we came to a well that

68 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

General Phil. Kearney and his men had dug, but it had
caved in so badly that it was almost as much work to clean
it as to dig a new one; and when it was cleaned, our men
dug another. The water was scant and brackish. We
remained at that point only until the rear of the command
caught up, then proceeded on our way, stopping but a
short time in any one place, until we reached Cariza, a
splendid spring near the base of the Sierra Nevada range of
mountains. The first men to reach water filled kegs and
canteens, lashed them to the stouter animals, and hastened
back to succor and revive the famishing men who were
bringing up the rear.

On that terrible march many of the weaker men
despaired of ever reaching water. We passed several,
who, with sunken and glazed eyes and blackened mouths
and looking as ghastly as death, stammered to us as we
passed them: "Goodby, I shall never live to reach water.
I cannot go a step farther, but shall die on this spot."
Poor fellows! I verily believe that if they had not been
resuscitated by the water that was carried back, their
words would have been painfully true before the rising of
another sun.

If it had not been for some fresh mules and beef cattle
that we met on this tedious march, we never could have
got through with the wagons, and possibly would have lost
some men; as our flour had given out and we were reduced
so near to starvation as to eat every particle of the worn-
out beef ox; even the tender part of the horns and hoofs,
and the intestines, were broiled on the coals and eaten,
without water to wash them.

In our mess, the last spoonful of flour was made into a
thin gravy by stirring it into some water where some of
our glue-like beef had been boiled. This so-called gravy
was divided among the men by spoonfuls, then the pan was
scraped with a table knife and wiped into a spoon, and with

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 69

the point of the same knife it was divided into seven parts.
Each man watched the division; and I do not believe there
was one man out of the seven but would have fought for
his share of that spoonful of pan-scrapings. Nor do I
believe there was one of them who would have robbed his
comrades. For the last three or four hundred miles we
had been in the habit of cooking the food, and dividing it
into seven equal parts. Then one man would turn his
back, and the cook or the one who made the division would
touch each morsel and say, ".Who shall have that?" where-
upon the one whose back was turned would say, so and so,
calling each messmate by name, until all had been "touched
off," as we used to call it.

From our camp at the spring we passed into the can-
yons of the Sierra Nevada. The days had been excessively
hot on the desert, and it was very cold and frosty in the
mountains at night. We soon came to where the canyons
were too narrow for our wagons; then with crowbar and
pickaxe and sledge we went at the jagged rocks until the
pass was sufficiently widened, and with our shoulders to the
wheels or by tugging at ropes we got our train to the sum-
mit.

It was while passing through this range of mountains
that we first saw live-oak acorns. They were bitter as
wormwood; yet we ate considerable quantities of them, and
as we descended the western slope they became very abun-
dant, and served for a change. As we passed down to the
valleys we found green mustard, which was boiled and eaten
without pepper or salt.

About this time one of our guides or interpreters
brought word from the governor of San Diego that several
battles had been fought by the California troops and United
States forces, and that we might meet a large Mexican army
retreating to Sonora. In consequence of receiving this news,
Colonel Cooke ordered a drill. We had secured a few beef

70 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

cattle and some fresh mules, and with this increase of
strength and the prospect of engaging the Mexicans we were
spurred on from one mountain summit to another, pushing
and pulling the wagons — a business we were well versed
in, from oft repeated lessons.

At Warner's Ranch, we came to the first house we had
seen in California. Mr. Warner hailed from the state of
Massachusetts. From him the colonel purchased two or
three fat beeves. The beef was good, yet we had nothing
to eat with it, not even pepper or salt for seasoning, and it
did not satisfy the cravings of hunger. We rested a day at
the ranch, and some of us wandered off up the creek in
hopes of finding wild fruit or game. We came to a small
camp of Indians who were engaged in hulling and leaching
live-oak acorns, then pounding them to a pulp in stone
mortars; this was boiled to a thick mush in home-made
earthen pots. The writer bantered one of the old ladies for
about three or four quarts of that cold-ochre mush, by offer-
ing her the belt that held his pantaloons in place. She
accepted the offer, and he, being without proper utensil to
receive his purchase, substituted his hat for a pan, and the
mush was scooped into it. Then when he found himself
in the dilemma of his pantaloons threatening to desert him,
he seized the alternative of holding up that portion of his
attire with one hand, and carrying his hat and its contents
in the other, and proceeded to camp, where his purchase
was divided and devoured as a sweet morsel.

From Warner's Ranch we traveled over low hills and
camped on a little narrow flat between two hills. In the
night it came on to rain terribly, and the flat was so flooded
that we awoke to find ourselves half-side deep in water. At
dawn one of the boys crawled out of the water and wet
blankets, and crowed; for he had learned that the men who
had been sent back to recover some flour which had been
left in the boat had come in with about four hundred pounds.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 7 1

Soon every man in camp had heard the glad tidings of the
arrival of this expedition, about which there had been much
anxiety.

In a short time the writer was called on by the orderly
sergeant of his company, D, to go with him and receive the
portion of flour to be issued to the company. At the door
of the tent where the flour was being divided we met Col.
Cooke, who was sitting with his head down, as if in deep
study. Some of the boys had found a fiddle that had fared
better than its owner, and near by one of them struck up
the tune of "Leather Breeches Full of Stitches," or some
similar lively air. Immediately a number of men formed a
couple of French fours and began dancing in water half to
their shoe tops. The colonel caught the sound, started up,
and inquired what it was. Some one replied, "Oh, nothing,
only the boys are dancing and making merry over the pros-
pect of getting a little flour." The colonel shrugged his

shoulders and remarked, "I never saw such a d d set of

men before in my life. If they can get out somewhere so
they can dry their clothes and have a little flour they will
be as happy as gods!"

Doubtless the colonel could call to mind often having
seen us stagger into camp, and perhaps could remember a
dozen or so of us rush to where his mule was being fed
corn mixed with beans, which the well-fed mule would
object to by throwing his head first one way, then the other,
scattering the half-chewed corn and beans in the sand,
where the hungry soldiers would pick it from, rub it in their
hands, and eat it raw; for to the famishing soldier beans are
not so objectionable.

I am reminded at this point in my narrative that three
croaking ravens had followed the command nearly all the
way from Santa Fe, for the bits that escaped the soldier's
eye. Surely if it had not been for the ravens' keener vision
they would have left in disgust, and would have given us a

72 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

very hard name. Even the wolf might have told his fel-
lows not to follow such a greedy lot, which did not leave a
bone till it was pounded and boiled and re-boiled till it could
not be scented, and if perchance a bit was found it was too
hard for even wolves' teeth.

From this camp we moved to the west under orders
from General Kearney to go to Los Angeles. While on
the march toward that point, just as we emerged from a can-
yon, we heard the drum and fife in an open valley. Soon we
saw a military force forming in line of battle, and as we drew
nearer we discovered their spears or lances gleaming in the
sunlight, and officers dashing up and down the lines giving
commands. Our advance guard slowed up, and we were
ordered to form in line of battle. Every officer took his
place, the command dressed in proper order, and, as we
advanced, comrades looked into each other's faces as if to
say, "How do you feel about it?" One asked Alexander
Stephens the question, and received a prompt reply, "First-
rate. I had as lief go into battle as not. If we must die,
the sooner the better, for it seems that we must be worn
till we starve and die anyhow. I do not fear death a par-
ticle." Others were heard to say as much, and although
the ashy look of death shone in many faces, from the priva-
tions undergone, I do not think there was a tremor in any
heart, or a single man who showed the white feather.

As we drew near the force in our path, there was a
dead silence, as if awaiting the order to wheel into line and
open fire, for we were within rifle range. Just then two of
the opposite party came out on horseback to meet us. The
colonel sent two of our interpreters forward, and the com-
mand was halted. Soon our guides returned and stated
that the supposed foe was a band of Indians which had had
a battle with Mexicans in the vicinity a few days before,
and the Indians had returned to bury their dead. They

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 73

had taken us for enemies, but their fears were turned into
joy on discovering that we were American soldiers.

With all our bravery, there was a sigh of relief when
we heard the news that our supposed enemies were friends.
It was now late in the day, and both parties went into camp
within a short distance of each other. Friendly visits back
and forth were made that evening. The Indians were
dressed in Spanish costume and were armed the same as
the Mexicans; as I remember them they displayed bravery,
and some skill in Mexican militarv tactics.

Next day we proceeded on our way, and passed down
a dry wash, the bottom of which was mostly lined with a
whitish cobblestone, upon which the feet of some comrade
showed blood at every step for a hundred yards or more.
I cannot now recall the man's name. We continued our
march from that place, and afterwards learned that the
Mexicans had intended to make an effort to regain Cali-
fornia, but the timely arrival of the battalion prevented any
attempt to execute the movement.

So far as I can remember, it was between January 23
and 27, 1847, that we passed over a battlefield where Gen-
eral Kearney and his little command had fought and beaten
the Mexicans. There lay broken swords and firearms, and
dead horses and mules; and there also were the graves of
the slain, while all around the blood-stained soil was plainly
within our view, fixing the scene upon our memory.

Here came to our minds the words of President Brig-
ham Young, in his farewell address to the battalion, in
which he said: ';You are now going into an enemy's land
at your country's call. If you will live your religion, obey
and respect your officers, and hold sacred the property of
the people among whom you travel, and never take any-
thing but what you pay for, I promise you in the name of
Israel's God that not one of you shall fall by the hand of an
enemy. Though there will be battles fought in your front

74 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

and in your rear, on your right hand and on your left, you
will not have any fighting to do exxept with wild beasts."
Here I pause and ask: Who on earth dare to make,
of himself, such a promise, under the circumstances and in
the name that this promise had been made? And yet over
three hundred men wrho heard it could stand up after they
had filled the time of their enlistment, and before high heaven
and all the world could bear testimony to the literal fulfill-
ment of those words spoken eight months before, in the
camp in Missouri Valley, two thousand miles distant. I ask
the honest reader: From whence came such foresight, if
not from the Eternal God, the Creator of the heavens and
the earth, and all things therein? To Him we ascribe all
honor and glory, power and praise, for our success in that
great, wonderful and unparalleled march of twenty-five hun-
dred miles made by infantry. Who shall say that God had
not made bare His arm in support of that ever memorable
Mormon Battalion? But as yet the whole task of the bat-
talion had not been completed.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 75

CHAPTER XL

ORDERED TO SAN DIEGO— FIRST VIEW OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN— RUMORS
OF THE ENEMY — COMPLIMENTARY ORDER, BY LIEUT. COL.
COOKE. ON THE ACHIEVEMENTS OF THE MORMON BATTALION
—REPORTED HOSTILITY OF COL. FREMONT TO GEN. KEARNEY
—LIVING ON BEEF ALONE— OBTAIN SOME FLOUR-ROUTINE OF
THE CAMP— ORDERED TO LOS ANGELES— DAMAGE BY AN EARTH-
QUAKE—WILD HORSES AND CATTLE DRIVEN INTO THE SEA-
ARRIVAL AT LOS ANGELES— RUMORS OF AN ATTACK— CONSTRUCT-
ING A FORT— GUARDING CAJON PASS— SURROUNDED BY WILD
CATTLE— TAKE REFUGE IN A RAVINE— COL. FREMONT ARRESTED
—SITE OF SAN BERNARDINO— GETTING OUT A LIBERTY POLE-
BRUSH WITH THE INDIANS— CLEARING LOS ANGELES OF DOGS—
WICKEDNESS IN THE TOWN— BRUTALITY OF BULL FIGHTS, HORSE
RACING, ETC.— ALWAYS READY FOR AN ATTACK— FIRST RAIS-
ING OF THE STARS AND STRIPES ON A LIBERTY POLE IN CALI-
FORNIA.

ORDERS had been received changing our destination
from Los Angeles to San Diego, passing by way of
the Mission San Luis del Rey. When we reached the San
Diego Mission we passed it by and camped between it and
the town. It was en route to this place that we came in sight
of the waters of the great Pacific Ocean, a view that was
most pleasurable to us, and which we hailed with shouts of
joy, as we felt that our long march of starvation was about
over. We were now drawing five pounds of fair beef, with-
out salt or pepper.

Another day's march, and we had completed the journey
over the nation's highway across the continent. We were
allowed one day at San Diego, when we were ordered back
to the San Luis del Rey Mission. There was some dis-
appointment, but the order to return was obeyed without
murmuring. It was thought we. would meet the enemy, as

76 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

it was said there was a force of about eighteen hundred
Californians, under General Flores, lurking in the mountains
northwest of San Luis del Rey Mission, but we did not
see them. At the Mission we were required to do fatigue
duty, as it was called, which included cleaning up the place,
it having been neglected a long time. At this place the
following was issued by Col. Cooke :

"Headquarters, Mission of San Diego,

"January 30, 1847.

"Lieutenant Colonel commanding congratulates the
battalion on its safe arrival on the shores of the Pacific
Ocean, and the conclusion of its march of over two thousand
miles. History may be searched in vain for an equal march
of infantry; nine-tenths of it through a wilderness, where
nothing but savages and wild beasts are found, or deserts
where, for want of water, there is no living creature. There,
with almost hopeless labor, we have dug deep wells,
which the future traveler will enjoy. Without a guide
who had traversed them, we have ventured into trackless
prairies, where water was not found for several marches.
With crowbar and pickaxe in hand, we have worked our
way over mountains, which seemed to defy aught save the
wild goat, and hewed a passage through a chasm of living
rock more narrow than our wagons. To bring these first
wagons to the Pacific, we have preserved the strength of
the mules by herding them over large tracts, which you.
have laboriously guarded without loss.

"The garrison of four presidios of Sonora, concentrated
within the walls of Tucson, gave us no pause; we drove
them out with their. artillery; but our intercourse with the
citizens was unmarked by a single act of injustice. Thus
marching, half naked and half fed, and living upon wild
animals, we have discovered and made a road of great value
to our country.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 77

"Arrived at the first settlement of California, after a
single day's rest, you cheerfully turned off from the route to
this point of promised repose, to enter upon a campaign,
and meet, as we believed, the approach of the enemy; and
this, too, without even salt to season your sole subsistence
of fresh meat.

"Lieutenants A.J. Smith and George Stoneman of the
First Dragoons, have shared and given valuable aid in all
these labors.

"Thus, volunteers, you have exhibited some high and
essential qualities of veterans. But much remains undone.
Soon you will turn your strict attention to the drill, to sys-
tem and order, to forms also, which are all necessary to the
soldier.

"By order of Lieutenant-Colonel P. St. George Cooke.
[Signed.] "P. C. Merrill, Adjutant."

It is stated by Sergeant Daniel Tyler, in his "History
of the Mormon Battalion," that February 4th was the date
of the reading of the order. Its spirit and tone were an
agreeable surprise to us, as the general tenor of the colonel's
course had been so different, apparently, that we did not
look for him to do the battalion justice. Yet if he had been
less stern and decisive, it would have been worse for us.
We had stern realities to deal with, consequently like means
were necessary to overcome the obstacles we had to con-
tend with. It required push and vim to enable the battalion
to perform the heroic deeds demanded of it, and a sympathy
that would have caused the men to shrink back instead of
seeing that every one stood to his post of duty would have
been a fatal error. After all, Col. P. St. George Cooke was
a good military commander, maintaining excellent military
discipline; and for one the writer feels to say, Peaceful be
his sleep.

It was about the 4th or 5th of February when we got

78 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

back to the mission, and the order given, with others, was
made known. The other orders included such directions as
to trim the hair so that none came below the tip of the ear,
and shave the beard all but the mustache.

We were informed that we had no right to think in
acting for ourselves — that the government paid men to think
for us, and it was our duty to obey orders. We were
allowed very little time in which to wash our rags and hunt
down the insects that had waged a continuous warfare on
us all the way from Albuquerque or the Rio Grande del
Norte to the coast; yet we turned on the creeping foe, and
never relented till we routed him, nor showed any quarter
till the last one was gone. We also had to repel an attack
from the nimble flea in great numbers, in which we realized
that this impudent insect did not care where he hit.

While we were still living on beef alone, without pep-
per or salt, we were ordered out on squad drill, which
seemed to continue about eight hours per day. The reason
given for this was the supposed threatened attack from
eight hundred Californians in the mountains; and further,
the rumors that Col. John C. Fremont, with eight hundred
or a thousand men, claimed it was his right, and not Gen.
Kearney's, to dictate to the United States forces in Cali-
fornia. In fact, it was reported that Col. Fremont was in
open hostility to Gen. Kearney, who was military governor
of California by orders from Washington. Under these
circumstances, we were kept in constant readiness, not know-
ing the moment we would be called into active service.

Our training daily was one hour for each pound of
beef issued, the beef costing less than a cent a pound to the
government. Sergeant Tyler says our rations were five
pounds a day, and I say it was not half enough, for. we were
ravenously hungry all the time. If the reader doubts this, let
him try the ration for a little while, and doubt will disappear.

About February 25 we obtained bolted flour and

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 79

some other supplies of provisions that had been brought
from the Sandwich Islands, by Major Sward, to San Diego,
and thence to San Luis del Rey by mule team. In the
meantime we had received a small amount of unbolted flour,
brought by Lieutenant Oman and a small detachment of
the battalion sent out for the purpose. Then the beef rations
were reduced; so that during the whole twelve months'
service we did not once have issued to us the full rations
allowed by the government to the American soldier — if we
had full rations in one thing, another was lacking. Either
the government made a great saving from regulations in
feeding us, or a steal put money into some contractors'
pockets.

Day after day the duties of soldier were performed,
drilling, Out on detached duty, or marching here, there and
everywhere, early and late, by day and by night, just to
suit the fancy of some of our officers, and not always upon
real occasion for the movements. It would seem that in
many respects the soldier's life is much like a faithful wife's;
and in others much unlike a woman's work. Like hers, in
that the task seems never done, busy all day and up at every
hour of night in response to calls of first one child, then
another, or even to the exploits of some mischievous cat,
her rest broken and her life worn away; unlike hers, in that
she usually has a dry shelter, regular meals, and a place to
lie down when she can rest, while the soldier in time of war
never knows where he will make his bed at night, often is
without food and drink, having to move at the word of com-
mand over deserts, rocks, mountains, plains and rivers — a
stranger to the locality he may call his home. But the toils
of both are necessary, she to rear the nation's pride and
strength — a soldier in the right; he to protect her and him-
self, to defend their country's rights and avenge her
wrongs.

Returning to the narrative of garrison duty, it appeared

80 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

to me the hours of drill were more than Sergeant Tyler's
account will admit of; but I shall not dispute with him, as I
write from memory. I do recall that roll call came at day-
light, sick call at 7:30 a. m., breakfast call at 8:40, drill at
10 a. m. and 3 p. m., roll call at sundown, tattoo at 8:30,
and taps at 9 p. m., after which lights must be out except
in case of sickness. All must be silent then, as the men
are supposed to have retired for the night.

On or near the 20th of March, companies A, C, D
and E took up their journey to the Puebla de Los Angeles.
We traveled over a hilly country, where there were numer-
ous herds of cattle and bands of horses. In some places we
passed down to and along the sandy beach around big
bluffs over which, so we were told, the Californians, some
years previously, had driven thousands of horses and cattle
to rid the country of them, as they had overrun the place
so that all were suffering for food. This story seemed
confirmed by the great amount of bones that we saw
among the rocks and sands at the foot of deep declivities
along the seashore.

On the way to Los Angeles we passed a stone church
that had been badly shaken; the walls had been good
mason work, but now were mostly broken down. We
were told that an earthquake did the damage, and that some
three hundred people had been killed. On by the San
Gabriel River we went, arriving at Los Angeles in about
four days' march from where we had started out. We
marched into the main street and stacked our arms as if to
say, "We have possession here."

Most of the citizens stood aloof, looking as if the cause
they had supported was lost, but soon the merchants
brought out buckets of whisky and wine, which they set
before the command, inviting us to help ourselves. Some
accepted the invitation rather freely, while others refrained
from touching the beverages. We returned to the river at

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 8l

night, and camped. In a day or two we were marched
about two miles up the stream, and above the town, where
we again ran out of provisions and had to go hungry; nor
did we break our fast till n a. m. next day.

At this time the air was full of alarming rumors. A
revolt of Calif ornians was talked of; then it was Fremont
who was said to be in rebellion against General Kearney's
authority; and again, a powerful band of Indians was
ready to pounce down upon us. It was not very unex-
pectedly, therefore, that we received orders to occupy the
most commanding point overlooking the town. Soon after
this we learned that a supply of provisions for the command
had been landed at San Pedro, about twenty-one miles dis-
tant, and teams and wagons were sent at once, under an
escort of soldiers, the writer being one. We returned next
day, heavily loaded.

About this date, the command began the erection of a
fort, or rather began to throw up earthworks. Lieutenant
Rosecranz was ordered with a small detachment to Cajon
Pass, a narrow opening in the Sierra Nevada range, about
eighty miles east of us. The object was to guard the pass
against the advance of any foe, for, as has been said, there
were many rumors of impending danger. In a short time,
Lieutenant Pace, with twenty-nine officers and men of the
battalion — the writer being one of the number — received
orders to relieve the detachment of Lieutenant Rosecranz.
Pace's command had just reached the Rosecranz party,
finding the latter in the act of striking camp, when a dis-
patch came by pony express ordering us to return as well.

On our march out, the wild cattle, which were there by
thousands, became excited and began to bellow and crowd
toward us. We could see them for miles coming on the
run. They closed in quickly until we were surrounded by
them on three sides, with a deep gulch or very brushy
ravine on the fourth. We retreated in double-quick, time

82 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

to this gulch, and were compelled to remain in what shelter
it afforded until the next day, before we could pass on in
safety.

The unsettled state of the country kept us constantly
busy. Our fort was pushed to completion, and we having
obtained what artillery Colonel Fremont had, the twelve or
fifteen pieces now in our possession were placed in proper
position for defense. Everything was made as complete
as could be, and the warclouds began to give way. Fre-
mont had been placed under arrest for insubordination or
rebellion, I do not recall which, and this contributed to the
peace of the country.

A Spaniard was hired to haul a liberty pole from San
Bernardino Canyon, a distance of eighty miles, and as he
dared not undertake the journey without a military escort,
Corporal Lafayette Shepherd and fourteen men, among
whom the writer was included, were sent to protect the
Spaniard and help get the pole down to the fort. On that
trip we camped on the present site of San Bernardino City,
then a wild and lonely wilderness, with not. a house or farm
in sight. At that time the country abounded in wild cattle,
bear, and other wild animals.

Just where we came out on the plain we camped for
the night, and in the morning our Spanish friend went out
into the hills to see if he could kill a deer. Soon he came
upon a party of Indians jerking beef, and he shot into their
camp. They came out, returned his fire, and gave him
chase. We were getting breakfast when he dashed into
our camp, shouting that the Indians were upon us, and for
us to get our guns. Of course, we complied, and were
ready in short order, but as no Indians came, the Spaniard
insisted that we go in and rout them, as they were killing
the citizens' cattle, and our commander had given a
promise of protection from this. Hastily we saddled our
mules and started, expecting every moment to meet the

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 83

Indians, who were on foot. We found no one before we
came to the campfires, around which was strewn consider-
able beef. Soon we discovered the Indians fleeing up the
mountain, and on our jaded mules we gave chase, but
when we reached the summit the Indians were going up
the opposite ridge. We dismounted and poured a few vol-
leys into the brush above them. They did not fire back.
I do not think any harm was done. They were fleeing for
their lives and did not show any opposition to us, and we
had no desire to harm them, but simply to demonstrate to
the Californians that as United States soldiers we were
ready to protect them and their property, as was promised
by our officers.

We hastened back to the fort with our charge, the
logs in the rough being about fifty feet each, the two mak-
ing a pole between ninety and ninety-five feet long when
completed, which was done by the members of the battalion
at the fort.

Another event about this period was an order by
Colonel Cooke for a detail of good marksmen and trusty
men to go through the town and shoot or bayonet all the
dogs to be found in the streets. The colonel had notified
the town authorities of his intention. Accordingly the
detail was made and ammunition issued. The writer was
one of the trusted marksmen. We sallied forth in the
town of Los Angeles, where the dogs were more numerous
than human beings, and commenced our disagreeable and
deadly work. Muskets rattled in every street and byway,
dogs barked and howled in every direction, and women
and children wept to have the animals spared. But mili-
tary orders had to be obeyed, for the dog nuisance had
become intolerable. After that, there were sanitary orders
sent forth, and the streets were cleared of the dogs and a
great amount of bones and other rubbish.

With all this cleaning up, there still was tolerated the

S4 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

greater nuisances of liquor drinking, gambling, the most
lewd and obscene conduct that could be imagined, Sab-
bath breaking by horse racing, cock and bull fighting, men
fighting and knifing one another — indeed, the Sabbath was
the greater day for all these vices.

Bull fighting was carried on inside of a square of one
to four acres surrounded by one-story adobe flat-roofed
houses, on which spectators would climb, and thus have an
excellent view of the whole exhibition of cruelty and bravado
and jeopardy to life. Numbers of the wildest and most
ferocious bulls were taken, and were brought into the
arena one at a time. The animal was turned loose, and a
man would tease him into fury with a sharp lance. A
horseman would charge and make thrust after thrust at the
maddened bull, striving to pierce him just behind the horns,
the aim being to cut the pith of the spinal column at that
point. If this were done, the animal would fall dead on
the spot. As a general thing, the bull was more apt to
gore the rider's horse, and give the rider himself a very
close call; but a number of very expert horsemen were
kept in readiness to lasso the bull or cast a blanket over
his eyes and thus blindfold him until his tormentor got out
of danger. In this cruel sport many horses were sacrificed,
and sometimes the riders as well. It was not an unusual
thing for a hundred or more of these wild bulls to be col-
lected at a time, and the bloody sport to be kept up three
or four days and perhaps more. Sometimes a grizzly bear
would be captured and turned loose with a wild bull, the
death of one and perhaps both being the result. The
whole populace seemed to enjoy this cruel sport, shouting
and screaming thereat all the day long. Males and females,
of all ages and conditions, met on a common level to wit-
ness this wild and reckless amusement.

Horse racing took place on the principal streets. One
popular part of this pastime was to secure an old male

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 85

chicken; this was buried all but the head in a hole in the
street, the soil being packed in as tight as could be and
have the bird live. An Indian stood by to rebury the fowl
as fast as the horsemen resurrected him by seizing him by
the head when riding past at full speed. The aim was to
swoop down, seize the cock's head, pull the bird out of
the hole, and hold to the head to the end of the contest,
which was indulged in by a dozen or more. When one
rider tore the bird from the hole all the others would
charge on him and try to capture it. The possessor would
strike right and left, to hold his prize, until the poor fowl
was torn to pieces. Often the bird fell to the ground alive,
was buried again, and some one else would lead in the
dash for it. Just before the rider reached the fowl, a horse-
man on either side would lash the horse unmercifully, so
that the rider could not slow up to get a better chance at
the exposed head. This game would be continued till
some one carried the fowl's head to the end in triumph.

It was said that a scheme existed to draw the attention
of the Americans during the most exciting of these sports,
and then raid our camp; but if this ever was thought of it
failed, for with us everything was kept in readiness for an
emergency, and sometimes we lay at night with loaded
muskets and fixed bayonets. Besides, we had become
very proficient in military tactics, and every man had
learned well his duty as a soldier.

The fort having been completed, and every reasonable
anticipation for surprise in the return of the Mexican forces
or for an uprising having been cut off, on the morning of
the Fourth of July, 1847, the Stars and Stripes was hoisted
on the pole in triumph, and floated in the breezes from the
Pacific Ocean — I think the first time that glorious banner
waved from a liberty pole in California, although Commo-
dore Sloat had raised the American flag at Monterey on
July 7, 1846.

86 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

CHAPTER XII.

TERM OF ENLISTMENT EXPIRES— BATTALION MEMBERS PREPARING TO
RETURN TO THEIR FAMILIES— ONE COMPANY EE-ENLISTS-AN IN-
SOLENT SPANIARD— PISTOL SNAPPED IN THE WRITER'S FACE-
ALMOST A DEATHBLOW— DESPERATE FIGHT STOPPED BY BY-
STANDERS—SERIOUS TROUBLE WITH ANOTHER SPANIARD— LEARN
THE LESSON TO AYOH) THOSE WHO GAMBLE OR DRINK INTOXI-
CANTS—SPANISH CHARACTER— CLASS OF CALIFORNIA'S INHABIT-
ANTS IN 1847— CONDITION OF THE COUNTRY— APPEARANCE OF THE
TOWNS AND YILLAGES— DIFFICULTY IN SECURING AN OUTFIT FOR
MEMBERS OF THE BATTALION TO JOURNEY EASTWARD.

THE members of the Mormon Battalion had been pur-
chasing horses and mules and a general outfit for a
return to our friends at the close of our term of enlistment,
which was drawing nigh. At the same time, Col. Stephen-
son, of the New York volunteers, and other commissioned
officers, were making strenuous efforts to have us re-enlist
for another twelve months, or six months at least, telling us
they had authority to impress us if they chose, but they
preferred to have us come as volunteers. It had been
reported that although the Californians had been whipped,
there was not concord, and that as soon as the Mormon
Battalion left the country the Californians would revolt and
make an effort to overthrow United States supremacy; but
while we remained there was no fear.

Now, as there were many of the battalion who had
spent all their wages — ninety-six dollars for their year's
service — it may have appeared to them that the only thing
to do was to re-enlist. Horses could be purchased cheaply,
and provisions were not high, but some money was needed.
Consequently, one company re-enlisted under Capt. Davis
of company E, while the rest of the command were busy

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 87

preparing for their journey east to meet the Saints some-
where, they knew not just where.

Comparatively few of our command had acquired suf-
ficient knowledge of the Spanish language to do their own
trading, and these acted as interpreters for their comrades.
The writer happened to be one of the few who had made
some success in picking up the language. On one occa-
sion, when hunting the town and adjacent country for such
articles as we needed in our outfit, he became fatigued and
went into a cafe for a cup of coffee. On entering the
restaurant he found, besides the landlord, three or four
good-appearing Spaniards, who soon began to question him
about the United States and its people. Their questions
were being answered in a courteous manner, when the
attendant, who was a tall, fine-looking Spaniard, interposed
with the remark that America was a fine country, but her
soldiers were cowards and babies. The writer was alone,
and scarcely knew how to treat the insult; besides, there
was a possibility that it was intended as a joke. There-
fore, he felt that it would be improper to be too abrupt in
replying, and said, quietly, that America was a good
country and her soldiers were the bravest of the brave.

At that moment the Spanish-Californian stepped back
and brought out an American hat that had been cut through
on the side by some sharp instrument. Said he: "Here is
one's hat — I killed him in battle. He was a great baby."
Reaching back, he brought out a dragoon's sword and a
holster, with two iron-mounted U. S. pistols. His eyes
flashed, and he mimicked the dying soldier, saying all the
Americans were cowards. My blood was up, and I taunted
him by asking him how it was, if the Americans were such
cowards and babies, and fled from the Spaniards on the
battlefield, that the Americans had taken the country.
Pointing to the Stars and Stripes floating over the fort on
the hill, I said, "That shows where the brave men are; it is

88 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

the Californians who are cowards and babies." In an
instant a pistol was snapped in my face, and I saw the fire
roll from the flintlock. Quick as a flash, I caught a heavy
knife that was handy, leaped on to the counter, and was
bringing the weapon down on the head of my assailant, when
both of us were seized by bystanders, and were disarmed.
I started for camp, but was dragged back to compromise
the affair. When I re-entered the room the proprietor
was priming his weapon with mustard seed. He said it
was all fun, and we should make up. The spectators were
anxious to settle, and offered to treat. Some of the Span-
iards expressed regret at the occurrence. The matter was
dropped, though I never was convinced that that Spanish
attendant did not have murder in his heart.

On another occasion I had an unpleasant experience
with another Spaniard. It was when I was on guard duty
at the prison in Los Angeles. A very large, well dressed
Spaniard came across the street from a drinking saloon and
gambling den. He wTore a large sombrero worth about
eight dollars. He had been gambling and drinking, but
was not drunk. Said he, "I have lost all my money, and I
want to leave this hat with you for four dollars. If I do
not bring the money back, you may keep the hat; it is
worth eight dollars, and will sell for that any day." His
offer was rejected, when he showed some displeasure,
again urging the loan, and promising to bring the money
back in a short time. Finally he prevailed, left the hat and
took the money.

In two or three hours the Spaniard returned, saying
he wanted his sombrero, at the same time promising to
bring the money next day. Of course this proposition was
rejected, whereupon he showed considerable temper, but at
last said it wras all right, he would find the money; and
added, "Come over to the saloon and have a drink of winer
and we will be good friends." Thinking that would settle

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 8q

the matter, I complied with his request. He had on a long
Spanish sarapa, or blanket, and as we neared the door he
stepped ahead, leaned over the counter, and said some-
thing to the bartender. As I entered the door I was
again asked for the hat, and he in turn was requested to
hand over the money. He grew angry, threatened, and
finally challenged me to fight. As I squared off to meet
his impending assault, the Spaniard drew a large bowie
knife for a thrust at me, but was stopped by some bystand-
ers. I was at the time nineteen years of age, and my
young blood was thoroughly aroused. I rushed for my
musket, which was loaded and had bayonet fixed, and with
the hurting end foremost I was quickly back at the saloon,
forcibly declaring my readiness for the conflict. The
bystanders closed in and called for peace, the four dollars
was soon raised, and the sombrero found its way back into
the hands of its angry owner, who displayed considerable
effect of the liquor he had been drinking. But I learned
an impressive lesson, namely, to avoid the companionship
of men who drink intoxicants or who follow games of
chance for a livelihood. Even if a man does not indulge
himself, those who do are liable to ask favors, and if these
are not granted the next thing is insult, which often ends in
bloodshed, or did in those days in California. In illustra-
tion of the light estimate of human life, I can recall a
man's foot being kicked about the street, and no more
notice being taken of it than if it were an animal's.

As to Spanish character, the writer can say from a
close acquaintance that when the Spaniards are sober and
friendly, they are very friendly, hospitable and polite, being
very good company; in fact, we seldom met with a more
wholesouled and agreeable people. Yet it is doubtful if
there are any people who will resent an insult quicker and
more seriously than they will. They are brave and manly;
yet those who are of mixed blood, such as the Greasers,

CjO LIFE OF A PIONEER.

are low, degraded, treacherous and cruel. In California
there were a few of the higher class, many more of a
medium kind, and still more of the lower class; so that in
summing up the total of California's inhabitants in 1846-7,
the country was only half civilized and thinly inhabited.

At that time the country was wild, being overrun with
wilder horses, cattle, sheep and goats. In places wild oats
and mustard abounded, in many sections the mustard being
as high as a man's head when on horseback, and so dense
that a horse could be forced only a few feet through it. In
the foothills and mountains wild game was very abundant,
consisting of elk, deer, bear, and smaller game. Along the
water courses and on the lakes waterfowl • was plentiful.
There were millions of acres of uncultivated land, as good
as any on the globe. The climate is scarcely equalled any-
where. The chief products of the soil then were wheat,
barley, beans, peas, apples, peaches, plums, apricots, pears,
dates, figs, olives, grapes, black pepper, spices, and many
fruits not named here. These all seemed to grow very
near to perfection, especially when properly cared for. The
greater part of the labor was performed by native Indians,
and that too with the most primitive tools. The buildings
were low, being one-story adobe, with flat roofs covered
with cement, or a natural tar that exuded from the earth;
sometimes tile was used, but I do not remember seeing
one brick building or shingle roof in all the land.

Under the conditions which existed, it was no easy
matter for a hundred and fifty men to get an outfit together
to travel over the mountains east, as that number of the
battalion intended to do; but having commenced before we
were discharged from service — say some time in June — to
purchase our horses, saddles, and everything necessary for
a pack train, we were partly prepared for the journey
when the day came for us to be mustered out.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 91

CHAPTER XIII.

MORMON BATTALION MUSTERED OUT OF SERVICE—ONE HUNDRED AND
FIFTY MEMBERS ORGANIZE TO RETURN EAST TO THE ROCKY
MOUNTAINS— START j ON THE JOURNEY— DIFFICULTIES OF THE
ROUTE— DEALING WITH WILD HORSES AND CATTLE— STAMPEDE
OF A PACK ANIMAL— CHASE INTO AN INDIAN CAMP— LOST ALL
NIGHT IN A SWAMP— SUFFERING ON THE DESERT FOR LACK OF
WATER— ARRIVE NEAR SUTTER'S FORT— ON THE SITE OF SACRA-
MENTO—PARTY DECIDE TO REMAIN OVER !FOR THE YEAR, AND
OBTAIN EMPLOYMENT— MEET CAPT. J. A. SUTTER AND JAMES W.
MARSHALL— PROPOSITION TO CAPT. SUTTER— ENGAGED TO WORK
ON A SAWMILL— PROCEEDINGS AT THE MILLSITE— MILL STARTED
UP-THE WRITER ENGAGED TO DIRECT INDIANS LABORING AT
THE ITAIL RACE-CONVERSATION WITH MR. MARSHALL— MAR-
SHALL TALKS ABOUT FINDING GOLD— HE AND THE WRITER MAKE
A SEARCH FOR GOLD, BUT FINDING NONE, DEFER THE INVESTI-
GATION TILL NEXT MORNING— MARSHALL'S FAITH IN HIS BEING
SUCCESSFUL IN DISCOVERING THE PRECIOUS METAL.

ON the 16th of July, 1847, the close of the Mormon
Battalion's term of enlistment, we were called into
line, and an officer passed along as in ordinary inspection.
Then, without further ceremony, he said, "You are dis-
charged." I do not think one-half of the command heard
him, he spoke so low. Some of us thought he may have
felt ashamed because of his conduct toward us on our march
to Santa Fe. He was the little bigot, Lieutenant A. J.
Smith.

Thus we bade adieu to United States military authority
and returned to the ranks of civil life. One hundred and
fifty of us organized ourselves into hundreds, fifties and
tens, and were soon on our way to meet our friends some-
where, as we supposed, in the Rocky Mountains east; and
still we did not know just where. We sought information
as best we could, and the most that we could learn was that

92 ' LIFE OF A PIONEER.

by following under the base of the Sierra Nevada range
six hundred miles we would come to Sutter's Fort, where
we could obtain further information as to the best route to
where we supposed we would find our friends.

It was about the 20th of July when the first company
moved out on the intended journey; and in three or four,
days the remaining hundred followed. We passed Gen.
Pico's ranch about twenty miles northward, and from there
crossed over a mountain so high and steep that it made our
heads swim, and it was with difficulty that we could sit on
our horses. In places, it was impossible for us to dismount,
for lack of room. Two mules lost their footing and fell
twenty-five or thirty feet before they could regain a foot-
hold, and it was very hard work to get them back on the
trail. We traveled some eighteen or twenty miles from
Pico's ranch to Francisco ranch, where we joined the fifty
who had preceded the main body, and were waiting for us
to come up.

A meeting was held, at which it was decided to pur-
chase forty or fifty. beef cattle, which was done at not to
exceed four dollars per head. The course of our journey
from this time was northward. The country where we were
traveling was a wilderness of hill and dale, deep gorges,
and brush, so that the first two days we lost ten or fifteen
head of beef cattle. It was decided to make sure of the
remainder by slaughtering and jerking or curing the beef,
and next morning there came a battle with the cattle, which
had become wild and ferocious, plunging at the men on
horseback everywhere, so we had to shoot them down as
best we could. After stopping two or three days to jerk
the beef, we proceeded on our journey.

Many of our horses were bronchos, or wild, when we
purchased them, and gave us much trouble. The packs
would get loose and turn under the animals, which would
run and kick, scattering things as they went. One day

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 93

Alexander Stephens, William Garner and I had a horse
stampede with its burden. I gave pursuit, and as I had no
thought of anything but capturing the animal, I chased it
about three miles, right into an Indian camp. The Indians
must have seen me coming and fled. Their fires were
burning, pots boiling, and camp equipage laid around.
From appearances there must have been fifteen to twenty
families; their tracks were thick and fresh. The runaway
horse seems to have been so excited that, like its pursuer,
it ran in among the camp before observing the danger; then
it turned and I secured it with a lasso. At that moment I
recognized the peril of my own position, in the possibility
of being ambushed by Indians. It may be needless to state
that I got out of that place in a hurry; although I had lost
sight of the camp and was confused for a little time till I
found my trail.

Upon returning, I met my two comrades, who had
had all they could do to take care of the other pack animals,
and were very anxious about me. It was getting late in the
day, and the company had passed out of sight. We followed
as fast as we could, but darkness overtook us and we soon
found ourselves wandering in the bullrushes and marshes of
the east end of Tulare Lake. Turn which wTay we would
we could not find any trail out. At last we found a spot
more solid than the surroundings; we halted and felt around
in the darkness; every way we went it was mud and water.
The night was so dark that we could not see each other or
the horses, and finally we tied the animals together so we
could hold them, took off the pack, and waited around till
daylight. I do not think either of us slept fifteen minutes
that night. We had nothing to make a fire with, and if we
had, it would not have been wise to have attracted savage
Indians with one. Early in the morning we prepared to
seek a way out, and to our surprise, discovered close by a
bullrush boat which an aged Indian was pushing through

94 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

the rushes. The boat had been made by twisting and
braiding the rushes together, and reminded us of what the
prophet says about embassadors going forth in vessels of
bullrushes. We could not learn from whence the Indian
came or whither he was going, nor yet his errand. We
bade him good day, and soon found the trail of our com-
pany. After going three or four miles, we met some of
our men who had been sent in search of us; they had passed
the night in great anxiety concerning our safety. Thank-
fully we reached the camp to have a bite of food and pro-
ceed on our journey, grateful that we yet had our hair on
the top of our heads, where the darkey says "the wool
ought to grow."

Our journey took us over cold mountain streams, some
of which we forded, carrying our baggage on our heads
and making from three to five trips each way; others we
built rafts for, by tying dry logs together with our lash-
ropes, piling them with baggage, and drawing them over
or pushing them with poles, the men swimming their horses
and often themselves. These streams were quite numerous.
Among those I remember were the Tulare, the San Joaquin
River, and others. The crossing of these streams was hard
on man and beast, the water being cold close to the moun-
tains, and the work hazardous owing to the rapid currents
and boulders in the channels of the rivers. On this journey
we were two days on dry plains, and suffered almost to death ;
some of our horses became so thirsty that their eyes turned
white as milk and blind as bats; they staggered against
anything they came to. Some of the men gave out entirely,
and if it had not been for some of the stronger men and
horses that pushed forward and then returned to aid the
others, many of the latter never would have been able to
have reached camp. Men had their tongues swollen and
eyes sunken and glazed; some could not drink water when
it was brought to them, until their lips and mouths had

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 95

been bathed and some of the liquid poured into their
throats. Fortunately for the writer, he was one of the
stronger ones who went ahead and returned to his com-
rades the last day on the desert; the scene was terrible
beyond the powers of description.

Fully five hundred and fifty miles of that journey was
made without seeing a house, or a white woman or child.
There were many Indians and their ranches, but the
savages gave us no particular trouble. We pressed for-
ward till August 26, when we came to the American
River, two miles above Sutter's Fort and about a mile and
a half from the Sacramento River, at the point where the
city of Sacramento now stands. The locality was then a
forest of cottonwood timber and undergrowth.

When we reached the vicinity of Sutter's Fort a con-
sultation was held, at which it was decided that most of the
party would remain until next year, and obtain employ-
ment where they could. Captain John A. Sutter and
James Marshall contemplated building a gristmill and also
a sawmill, but had no skilled workmen to perform the task.
Accordingly, a committee was appointed from our number,
who informed Captain Sutter that we had among us car-
penters, blacksmiths, wheelwrights, millwrights, farmers
and common laborers; that we were in need of horses,
cattle, and a general outfit for crossing the mountains early
the next summer,' and that if we could not get all money
for our pay we would take part in supplies for our journey;
the committee also inquired what the prospect for employ-
ment was. Captain Sutter gave the committee encourage-
ment, and asked them to call on him again in two or three
days.

The result was, that between August 29 and Septem-
ber 5, from forty to sixty of us called on Captain Sutter.
Some were employed to work on the gristmill; others took

96 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

contracts on the mill race. The race was seven or eight
miles long, and was also intended for irrigation.

Between the 8th and the nth of September, Alexander
Stephens, James Berger and the writer started for the site
that had been selected by Mr. Marshall for the sawmill;
we were the first Mormons to arrive at the place. Peter
L. Wimmer and family and William Scott had preceded us
a few days, having two wagons loaded with tools and pro-
visions; the teams were oxen, and were driven by two of
Captain Sutter's civilized Indians. Some weeks after we
went up, Henry W. Bigler, Azariah Smith, William John-
ston, and Israel Evans, members of the Mormon Battalion,
came to the camp.

Upon our arrival at the millsite, work was begun in
earnest. The cabin was finished, a second room being
put on in true frontier style. While some worked on the
cabin, others wTere getting out timbers and preparing for
the erection of the sawmill. The site was at a point where
the river made considerable of a bend, just in the bank of
what appeared to be an old river bed, which was lowered
to carry the water from the mill.

Between January 15th and 20th, 1848, the mill was
started up. It was found that it had been set too low, and
the tail race would not carry off the water, which would
drown or kill the flutter wheel. To remedy this defect,
several new pieces of timber were needed, and all hands
were put to work within ten or fifteen rods of the tail race,
getting out the timbers.

Part of the time I was engaged in directing the labors
of a gang of Digger Indians, as I had picked up sufficient
of their dialect to make them understand me clearly. It
had been customary to hoist the gates of the forebay when
we quit work in the evening, letting the water through the
race to wash away the loosened sand and gravel, then close
them down in the morning. The Indians were employed

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 97

to dig and cast out the cable rock that was not moved by
the water.

On January 23, I had turned away from the Indians
and was with the white men. Mr. Marshall came along
to look over the work in general, and went to where the
tail race entered the river. There he discovered a bed of
rock that had been exposed by the water the night before,
the portion in view in the bottom of the race being three to
six feet wide and fifteen to twenty feet long. Mr. Marshall
called me to him as he examined the bed of the race, and
said: "This is a curious rock; I am afraid it will give us
trouble." Then he probed a little further, and added : "I
believe it contains minerals of some kind, and I believe
there is gold in these hills."

At this statement I inquired, "What makes you think
so?" He answered that he had seen blossom of gold, and
upon my asking where, he said it was the white quartz
scattered over the hills; on my inquiring further as to what
quartz was, he told me it was the white, flint-like rock so
plentiful on the hills. I said it was flint rock, but he said
no, it was called quartz in some book he had read, and was
an indication of gold. He sent me to the cabin for a pan
to wash the sand and gravel, and see what we could find.
I went to a cabin which had been built near the millsite by
Alexander Stephens, Henry W. Bigler, James Berger,
Azariah Smith, William Johnston and myself, and in which
we were doing our own cooking. I brought the pan and
we washed some of the bedrock that we had scaled up with
a pick. As we had no idea of the appearance of gold in
its natural state, our search was unsuccessful.

Mr. Marshall was determined to investigate further,
but it was no use that night. He rose and said: "We will
hoist the gates and turn in all the water that we can
-tonight, and tomorrow morning we will shut it off and

98 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

come down here, and I believe we will find gold or some
other mineral here."

CHAPTER XIV.

ARRIVAL OF MEMBERS OF THE MORMON BATTALION AT SUTTER'S
FORT OPENS THE WAY FOR THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD IN CALI-
FORNIA—JAMES W. MARSHALL OUT EARLY ON JANUARY 24,
1848— "HE IS GOING TO FIND A GOLD MINE"— REGARDED AS A
"NOTIONAL" MAN— "BOYS, I HAVE GOT HER NOW!"-TESTING
THE SCALES OF METAL— "GOLD, BOYS, GOLD!"— FIRST PROCLAMA-
TION OF THE GREAT GOLD DISCOVERY— SECOND AND THIRD TESTS
—ALL EXCITEMENT— THREE OR FOUR OUNCES OF GOLD GATH-
ERED—AGREE TO KEEP THE DISCOVERY SECRET— FIND THE
PRECIOUS METAL FARTHER DOWN THE STREAM — HOW THE
SECRET LEAKED OUT— MORE DISCOVERIES— FIRST PUBLICATION
OF THE NEWS MADE IN A MORMON PAPER— WASHING OUT THE
METAL— FIRST GOLD ROCKER— GATHERING GOLD— PART TAKEN
BY MR. MARSHALL, THE MORMONS AND CAPTAIN SUTTER IN
THE DISCOVERY— MISFORTUNES OF SUTTER AND MARSHALL-
ACCOUNT OF THE GOLD DISCOVERY CERTIFIED TO BY SEVERAL.
EYE WITNESSES.

IT is my understanding that when Captain Sutter and
Mr. Marshall were contemplating the erection of the
two mills, an apparently insurmountable obstacle confronted
them in the inability to get and pay for the skilled labor
necessary for portions of the work. This obstacle was re-
moved by the proposition our committee had made to Captain
Sutter at the first interview; and in the two or three days'
time asked in August, 1847, by the captain, a decision was
reached to go ahead. Therefore, if it had not been for the
opportune appearance of the mustered-out members of the
Mormon Battalion, the sawmill would not have been built
that winter, nor would the discovery of gold have been made
at that time. But for the action of those Mormons in connec-
tion with the enterprise proposed by Captain Sutter and

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 99

Mr. Marshall, in offering the desired class of labor upon the
terms they did, the state of California might have waited
indefinitely to have been developed and to be christened
the Golden State, and the entrance to the bay of San Fran-
cisco might never have received the title of the Golden
Gate.

Resuming the narrative of my association with Mr.
Marshall on the afternoon of January 23rd, I will state fur-
ther that each of us went our way for the night, and did not
meet again till next morning. I thought little of what
Marshall had said of finding gold, as he was looked on as
rather a "notional" kind of man; I do not think I even men-
tioned his conversation to my associates. At an unusually
early hour in the morning, however, those of us who oc-
cupied the cabin heard a hammering at the mill. "Who
is that pounding so early?" was asked, and one of our party
looked out and said it was Marshall shutting the gates of
the forebay down. This recalled to my mind what Mr.
Marshall had said to me the evening before, and I remarked,
"Oh, he is going to find a gold mine this morning."

A smile of derision stole over the faces of the parties
present. We ate our breakfast and went to work. James
Berger and myself went to the whipsaw, and the rest of the
men some eight or ten rods away from the mill. I was
close to the mill and sawpit, and was also close to the tail
race, where I could direct the Indians who were there.

This was the 24th day of January, 1848. When we
had got partly to work, Mr. Marshall came, with his old
wool hat in his hand. He stopped within six or eight yards
of the sawpit, and exclaimed, "Boys, I have got her now!"
Being the nearest to him, and having more curiosity than the
rest of the men, I jumped from the pit and stepped to him.
On looking into his hat I discovered ten or twelve pieces or
small scales of what proved to be gold. I picked up the largest
piece, worth about fifty cents, and tested it with my teeth; as

IOO - LIFE OF A PIONEER.

it did not give, I held it aloft and exclaimed. "Gold, boys,
gold!'' At that, all dropped their tools and gathered around
Mr. Marshall. Having made the first proclamation of the
very important fact that the metal was gold, I stepped to
the work bench and put it to the second test with the ham-
mer. As I was doing this it occurred to me that while en
route to California with the Mormon Battalion, we came to
some timber called manzanita. Our guides and interpreters
said the wood was what the Mexicans smelted their gold
and silver ores with. It is a hard wood and makes a very
hot fire, and also burns a long time. Remembering that
we had left a very hot bed of these coals in the fireplace of
the cabin, I hurried there and made the third test by plac-
ing the metal upon the point of an old shovel blade, and
then inserted it in among the coals. I blew the coals until
I was blind for the moment, in trying to burn or melt the
particles; and although these were plated almost as thin as
a sheet of note paper, the heat did not change their appear-
ance in the least. I remembered hearing that gold could
not be burned up, so I arose from this third test, confident
that what had been found was gold. Running out to the
party still grouped together, I made the second proclamation,
saying, "Gold, gold!"

At this juncture all was excitement. We repaired to
the lower end of the tail race, where we found from three to
six inches of water flowing over the bed of rock, in which
there were crevices and little pockets, over which the water
rippled in the glare of the sunlight as that shone over the
mountain peaks. James Berger was the first man to espy a
scale of the metal. He stooped to pick it up, and found
some difficulty in getting hold of it, as his fingers would blur
the water, but he finally succeeded. The next man to find
a piece was H. W. Bigler; he used his jack-knife, getting
the scale on the point of the blade, then, with his forefinger
over it placed it in his left hand.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. IOI

As soon as we learned how to look for it, since it glit-
tered under the water in the rays of the sun, we were all
rewarded with a few scales. Each put his mite into a small
phial that was provided by Marshall, and we made him the
custodian. We repeated our visits to the tail race for three
or four mornings, each time collecting some of the precious
metal until we had gathered somewhere between three and
four ounces.

The next move was to step and stake off two quarter
sections, beginning at the mill, one running down the river
and the other up. Then we cut and hauled logs and laid
the foundation of a cabin on each of them; one was for
Sutter, the other for Marshall. This matter being finished,
Mr. Marshall was prepared to dictate terms to us, for every
tool and all the provisions in that part of the country be-
longed to Sutter and Marshall. They had full control, and
we were depending on the completion of the mill for our
pay. Marshall said that if we would stay by him until the
mill was completed and well stocked with logs, he would
supply us with provisions and tools, and would grant us the
first right to work on their gold claims. We all assented to
his proposition, and also agreed that we would not disclose
the secret of the gold discovery until we learned more
about it and had made good our claims. Not having the
remotest idea of the extent of the gold deposits, we pushed
the mill as rapidly as possible; for as yet we had not re-
ceived one dollar's pay for our four months' labor.

Soon there came a rainy day, when it was too wet to
work. H. W. Bigler thought it a good day to hunt ducks,
so he put on an old coat, and was gone all day.

When he returned, we said, "Where are your ducks?"

He said, "Wait a while, I will show you; I have got
them all right."

Finally he drew an old cotton handkerchief from his
pocket; in the corner of it he had at least half an ounce of

102 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

gold tied up. For a while all were excited, and he was
asked a great many questions like the following: "Did you
find it on Sutter's claim along the river?" ''How far is it
from here?" "All in one place?" "Is there any more?"
"How did you get it, you had no pick or shovel?" "Can
you find the place again?"

He replied that he had found it down below Sutter's
claim, along the river where the bedrock cropped out along
the bank, and in little rills that came down the hills to the
river, indeed, everywhere that he found the bedrock crop-
ping out.

"Then you found it in more than one place?"

"Yes, more than a dozen."

It was now proposed that we keep this discovery a
secret, as the discovery in the race had been kept. So the
mill work was pushed with vigor to completion. But in
the meantime Marshall had felt it his duty to inform his
partner of the discovery. Accordingly, he wrote a letter
stating the facts, and sent me out to find a strange Indian
who would take it to Captain Sutter, fearing that if he sent
it by someone who was acquainted with the circumstances
the secret might leak out. About this time Wm. Johnston
found that he had some urgent business below and must go
there, and did so; he went to the gristmill and along the
camps on that mill race. Then somehow or other the bag
came untied and our old cat and all the kittens ran out, and
to the camps they went, until everybody heard of the gold
discovery. But, like all great truths, people were slow to
believe the story.

In a short time, however, Sidney S. S. Willis and.
Wilford Hudson, whose curiosity had been aroused, began
to feel that they would like a little venison; and with that
for an excuse they took their guns and set out on foot, hav-
ing been assured that by following up the river they -would
come to the sawmill, which they succeeded in doing the

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. IO3

iirst day. I think it was only a thirty-five miles journey.
I believe they stayed one day and two nights with us; then,
after a thorough examination of the bedrock, sand and
gravel, and the surroundings, they gathered a few speci-
mens, among which was one nugget worth about five
dollars — the largest by long odds that had been discovered
up to that time.

As Willis and Hudson passed back on their way home,
they discovered a small ravine or creek in which there was
some of the same kind of bedrock which they had seen at
the mill race, and by picking around in the sand and gravel
they discovered quite a rich prospect. That was just above
what was afterwards called Mormon Island, about twelve
or fifteen miles above the gristmill, and about the same
distance below the sawmill. Then they returned to the
mill, told their story, and showed the specimens to the
boys. fSome of these went to Sutter's Fort, to a little
grocery store kept by a Mormon named Smith, who came
around Cape Horn to California by the ship Brooklyn.
The story of the find was told, and specimens exhibited to
Smith, who wrote to Samuel Brannan. The latter was
publishing a paper in San Francisco at the time; and from
that press the news went forth to the world. Brannan was
a Mormon Elder, and the press was owned by a company
of Mormons who had sailed from New York around Cape
Horn, and were presided over by Samuel Brannan.

From one hundred to one hundred and fifty Mormons
flocked to Mormon Island; then people from every part of
the United States followed, and the search for gold com-
menced in earnest. With jack, butcher, and table knives,
the search was made in the crevices, after stripping the soil
from the bedrock with pick and shovel. Next, we con-
ceived the idea of washing the sand and fine gravel in tin
pans* but these were scarce and hard to get hold of. Alex-
ander Stephens dug out a trough, leaving the bottom round

104 LIFE OF A PIONEER

like a log. He would fill that with sand and gravel that
we scraped off the bedrock, and would shake it, having
arranged it so as to to pour or run water on the gravel;
finally he commenced to rock the trough, which led to the
idea of a rocker. His process caused the gold to settle at
the bottom; then he arranged the apparatus on an incline
so that the gold would work down and also to the lower
end of the trough. At short intervals he would turn what
was collected into a tub of water, and at night it would be
cleaned and weighed on a pair of wooden scales that
Stephens made also, using silver coins for weights, count-
ing the silver dollar equal to one ounce of gold. This
rocker led to the renowned gold rocker; I am under the
impression that Stephens made the first rocker ever used
in California.

The next and last process that we used in gathering
gold was to spread a sheet on the sandy beach of the
river, placing some big rocks on the corners and sides to
keep it well stretched. We then would fill in the rich dirt
on the upper edge, and throw on water to wash the dirt
down into the river, leaving the gold on the sheet. Occa-
sionally we took up the sheet and dipped it into a tub of
water, washing the gold off the sheet into the tub. At
night we would clean up our day's work, averaging from
twelve to fifteen dollars each. Our best paying dirt was
carried on our shoulders from Dry Gulch, fifteen to sixty
rods to where we could find water to wash it. We made
buckskin pouches or wallets to carry the gold in; it was
not dust, nor yet nuggets, but small scales.

Sutter's capital and enterprise and Marshall's shrewd
sagacity have been given the credit of the great gold dis-
covery in California. The facts are, that James W. Mar-
shall discovered the first color; in less than an hour six
Mormons found color as well, and within six weeks. Mor-
mons had discovered it in hundreds of places that Mr.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 105

Marshall had never seen, the most notable of which was
Mormon Island, to where the first rush was made, and
from where the news was spread to the world. As to
Sutter's enterprise and capital, he furnished the graham
flour and mutton, wheat and peas, black coffee and brown
sugar, teams and tools, while we, the members of the
Mormon Battalion, did the hard labor that discovered the
metal. It is also true that we were in Sutter's employ at
that date, and that we did not get paid for our labor. I
worked one hundred days for the firm, and never received
a farthing for it. I heard a number of other men say they
never got their pay. It was our labor that developed the
find, and not Marshall's and Sutter's, and we were never
paid for it; when we went for a settlement we were told by
Captain Sutter that he could not settle with us, for his
bookkeeper had gone to the mines, and his books were not
posted. He cursed Marshall and the mines, and declared
that he was a ruined man; that the discovery was his ruin,
for it had drawn off his laborers and left everything to go to
rack, and that he was being robbed.

I do not wish it to be understood that I charge Sutter
and Marshall with being dishonorable, for I do not. I think
they were honorable men in a business way. The fact is,
they were completely overrun with all classes of people,
and were confused, so that the people took advantage of
them, their business was undermined, and there was a
general collapse of their affairs and of every industry and
business. The cry was, "Gold! Gold! More Gold! Away
to the gold fields!" Every other enterprise was sacrificed
in the rush for gold.

With due respect to Captain John A. Sutter and James
W. Marshall, to whom the world has given the credit for
the great gold find, I believe that if they had been taken
out and shot to death the day of the discovery, they would
have suffered less, and would have met their Maker just as
7

106 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

pure, if not more honored in this world, than to have lived
and endured what they did. As far as I am concerned, I
say peace to their remains, for on this earth they have been
greatly wronged, if I have read their history correctly.
Like a lynching scrape where there is an outburst of the
people, it is very difficult to find those who are responsible
for the crime. Regarding the wrongs did these men, it
seemed as if the whole population of that locality picked on
them.

I will add here, that my account of the gold discovery
in California was submitted in 1893 to the following mem-
bers of the party who were at the place in January, 1848,
and who were the only survivors within my reach at the
time: Orrin Hatch and William S. Muir, Woods Cross,
Davis County; George W. Boyd, and H. D. Merrill, Salt
Lake City; and Israel Evans, Lehi, Utah County, Utah.
They united in giving me a certificate that they knew this
account to be a true and correct statement of the discovery
of gold in California, at Sutter's mill race.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 107

CHAPTER XV.

PREPARE TO LEAVE CALIFORNIA— SNOW IN THE MOUNTAINS CAUSES A
WAIT TILL THE LASTOF'jUNE— DISCOVER A RICH GOLD PROSPECT
—LEAVE IT TO MAKE THE JOURNEY OVER THE MOUNTAINS— NO
REGRETS AT ABANDONING THE MINES IN ANSWER TO THE CALL
OF DUTY— CAMP ORGANIZED IN PLEASANT VALLEY-START ON
• THE TRIP— THREE MEMBERS OF THE PARTY AHEAD, LOOKING
OUT THE ROUTE, FOUND MURDERED BY INDIANS AT TRAGEDY
SPRINGS-COVERING THE BODIES — STAMPEDE OF ANIMALS-
GUARDING AGAINST HOSTILE INDIANS— CROSSING THE DIVIDE IN
SNOW— THE WRITER FOOLED— TAKE TWO INDIANS PRISONERS-
CUTTING A ROAD— HORSES STOLEN BY INDIANS— PURSUIT TO
CAPTURE THEM— IN CARSON VALLEY— ALONG HUMBOLDT RIVER—
AT STEAMBOAT SPRINGS— OVER THE DESERT-MEMBER OF THE
PARTY WANTS TO KILL INDIANS— THE WRITER'S EMPHATIC OB-
JECTION-INDIANS WOUND STOCK— ADDISON PRATT AS A LUCKY
FISHERMAN— WRITER TRADES WITH AN INDIAN— THE RED MAN'S
TRICK— WRITER PURSUES HIM INTO THE INDIAN CAMP— ESCAPE
FROM DANGER — JOURNEY TO BEAR RIVER— HOT AND COLD
WATER SPRINGS— REACH BOX ELDER— VIEW THE GREAT SALT
LAKE— ARRIVE AT OGDEN, WHERE CAPTAIN BROWN AND SOME
SAINTS HAD SETTLED— JOURNEY TO THE MORMON CAMP ON
WHAT IS NOW PIONEER SQUARE, SALT LAKE CITY— HEARTILY
WELCOMED BY RELATIVES AND FRIENDS -REJOICING AND
THANKSGIVING.

IN June, 1848, some thirty-seven members of the Mor-
mon Battalion rendezvoused at a flat some six or eight
miles from Coloma, California, near where the first gold
discovery was made. This assemblage was preparatory to
crossing the Sierra Nevada mountains at or near the
head of the American River; for we had learned that it
was next to impossible to take wagons at this time
of the year by what was called the Truckee route, and as
we had become accustomed to pioneer life it was thought
we could find a better route, so it was proposed to open up

IOS LIFE OF A PIONEER.

one by the way stated. We had been successful in get
ing a few hundred dollars each from the mines, and had
fitted ourselves out with wagons and ox teams, seeds and
tools; for our protection on the journey we bought of Cap-
tain Sutter two brass Russian cannon, one a four pounder
and the other a six-pounder.

Some of the company, eight or ten, had pitched camp
at the site selected, and were waiting for others who were
tardy in getting their outfit. Early in May, a party con-
sisting of David Browett, Ira J. Willis, J. C. Sly, Israel
Evans, Jacob M. Truman, Daniel Allen, Henderson Coxr
Robert Pixton, and, I think, J. R. Allred, went out about
two or three days ahead, and found the country covered
with deep snow, so that at that time it was impracticable to
go forward with the wagons; the party therefore returned
to the main camp, and waited till the last of June. During
this wait, David Browett, Daniel Allen and Henderson Cox,
being anxious to be moving, started a second time to search
out the route, and were surprised at night and all were
killed by Digger Indians. They had been gone some
eight or ten days before the main body got together, and
about twenty days before we started. Alexander Stephens
and I, it seems to me, and some two or three others, did
not join the party, as I remember, until June 29.

The day before starting from the gold diggings on our
journey was kind of an off-day, in which the writer had
some spare time and wandered off from camp, with pick
and shovel, up into a dry gulch, where he soon struck a
very rich prospect of gold, about a quarter of a mile from
water. This was about 11 o'clock a. m. By sundown he
had carried the rich dirt down in his pantaloons, and washed
out forty-nine dollars and fifty cents in gold; yet kind
reader, strange as it may appear, he, with his partners,
hitched up and rolled out the next morning, and joined the
main camp at what we called Pleasant Valley, but now, I

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. IO9

think, known as Dutch Flat. I have never seen that rich
spot of earth since; nor do I regret it, for there always has
been a higher object before me than gold. We had cove-
nanted to move together under certain conditions, and those
conditions existing we were in honor bound to move the
next day. We did move, leaving that rich prospect without
ever sticking a stake in the gulch, but abandoning it to
those who might follow. Some may think we were blind
to our own interests; but after more than forty years we
look back without regrets, although we did see fortunes in
the land, and had many inducements to stay. People said,
"Here is gold on the bedrock, gold on the hills, gold in the
rills, gold everywhere, gold to spend, gold to lend, gold for
all that will delve, and soon you can make an independent
fortune." We could realize all that. Still duty called, our
honor was at stake, we had covenanted with each other,
there was a principle involved; for with us it was God and
His kingdom first. We had friends and relatives in the
wilderness, yea, in an untried, desert land, and who knew
their condition? We did not. So it was duty before
pleasure, before wealth, and with this prompting we rolled
out and joined our comrades in Pleasant Valley.

At our camp in Pleasant Valley we organized with
Jonathan Holmes as president, and with captains of tens.
Then there were chosen eight or nine vaqueros or herds-
men, to take charge of all the loose stock from 4 a. m. till
8 p. m.; but in the main the herdsmen were the chief pio-
neers for the camp. I remember only a few of them: W.
Sidney, S. S. Willis, Israel Evans, Jacob M. Truman, Wes-
ley Adair and James S. Brown.

The date of our start from Pleasant Valley I cannot
now recall, further than that it was between the 25th of
June and the 1st of July. We made slow progress, for the
road was very rough. About six of us rode ahead, and
looked out and marked the route. We would go ahead half

IIO LIFE OF A PIONEER.

the day, and then return to meet the train, often finding
them camped, the men working the road, cutting the tim-
ber, rolling rock, and digging dugways, or mending wagons.
Sometimes we had to lay over a day or two to make the
road passable.

Thus we pushed forward on our journey till we came
to a place we called Tragedy Springs, for near a beautiful
spring at this place we found the remains of the three breth-
ren who had preceded us, they having been murdered by
Indians, and buried in a shallow grave. We first found
bloody arrows, then stones with blood on them, then the
nude bodies, partly uncovered; these were recognized by
Daniel Allen's purse of gold near by. Our feelings can-
not be described through the medium of the pen, therefore
I must leave these to the reader's imagination. We built a
wall of rough rock around the grave, then covered it with
flat stones to protect the bodies from wild beasts. This
was the best we could do, for the bodies were so decom-
posed that we could not do more. The names of the de-
ceased and manner of death, with proper dates, were cut
in a large tree that stood near by.

The night we came to Tragedy Springs was very
dark, and our camp being in a dense forest of large trees,
the darkness was intensified. Guards were at their posts
around stock and camp, when suddenly, from some cause
we never knew, the stock stampeded. This raised a great
excitement, and before it subsided one of our cannon was
discharged; as it belched forth its stream of fire, and the
sound of the explosion echoed in forest and hills, the ani-
mals were stampeded still worse, only a few horses that had
been securely tied remaining. We were compelled to lay
by for two days to get things together, but we finally did
so, recovering all our stock.

We made another start, going to a place we called
Leek Springs, because of there being so many leeks growing

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. Ill

wild. We had to stop over and mark our way among rocky
ridges. Thence we moved on, musket in one hand, or in a
handy place to the teamster, with his goad or whip in the
other hand, the train moving in close order and constantly
on the alert for an attack by man or beast.

We ascended 3 very high spur of the Sierra Nevada
range, on the south side. When we reached the summit
the wind blew as if it were the middle of November. As
we crossed over we came to a large snowdrift; on the north
side of the mountain our wagons rolled over the snow as if
on marble pavement, but when we came to where the sun
had shone in the latter part of the day, our wagons went
down to the hub, and four were capsized and some of them
badly broken. The others succeeded in reaching the bot-
tom in safety. It took us till after dark to pick up the
pieces and get them together to be ready to start the next
morning.

We all gathered around the campfire and discussed
the subject of standing guard, when the writer remarked
that there was no need of guards — that he would agree to
take care of all the Indians that would come around that
night, for it was so cold and disagreeable that he supposed
no human being would come there from choice. Just then
someone inquired what an object on a rock was. Some
said it was an owl, others that it was an Indian. Two or
three of us took our guns and sallied forth to settle the dis-
pute finding to our surprise two Indians with feathered
headdresses on, and with long bows, and quivers full of
arrows. They were within easy bowshot of us. The
party had the laugh on the writer for once.

We took the Indians prisoners, disarmed them, and
prepared a place for them to sleep, after giving them their
supper. The writer was one called on to guard them, and
he promptly complied. The Indians made good company,
though they were very nervous, and we had to threaten

112 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

them frequently to keep them from making a break for
liberty. At midnight the guards were changed, and at
dawn we made ready to descend to the camp below, arriv-
ing there just as the Indians moved off; we had released
our prisoners. The Indians soon began to come in from
every quarter, all armed. We moved in close order, every
man well armed. The savages numbered three to our one;
they flanked us and we could see them on every hand, in
threatening attitude. In this situation we had to chop and
roll logs out of the way, move rock, and make dugways,
lifting at and holding wagons to keep them from turning
over. Consequently, our progress was slow, and the
journey very hazardous. Finally, when we had worked
our way carefully along the difficult route, passing over
the summit of the great Sierras, which divide the waters of
the great deserts from those which flow to the Pacific
Ocean, the threatening red men slunk out of sight, and we
found a rough camping place, where we lay all night upon
our arms, but nothing came to alarm us.

We continued down the canyon and came to a more
open country, camping by a river bend where there was
good feed, water, and fuel. We had begun to feel more
safe from the red men, yet that night they stole in past our
guards and took some of our saddle horses which were
tied within four or five rods of our wagons. The Indians
escaped, and were detected only by our guards hearing
them cross the river; this was about 4 a. m. Early in the
morning we learned more definitely our loss, and eight or
ten of us gave pursuit, following the trail across a sandy
country and over the foothills, ultimately succeeding in the
recovery of all our horses but one, and for that we captured
an Indian pony that had the distemper, as we discovered
after it had been turned into our herd. That was one of
the hardest day's rides that the writer remembers in all his
experiences, for we put our horses through all they could

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 113

live for. Every moment we were liable to ambush, for the
Indians divided into three parties and we did the same.
One of our party supposed he had killed an Indian, or cer-
tainly wounded him, just as he entered into the thick
brush.

It was late the next day when we resumed our journey,
and that night we camped in Carson Valley, where we
looked on an extensive plain or desert. Being unable to
discern an3T evidences of water, we turned to the north,
just under the base of the mountains, traveling over a very
hard route, until we came to the Truckee River, where we
entered the old emigrant road. We followed that road till
we came to the sink of the Humboldt, then called St.
Mary's River. The distance was said to be forty-five
miles; be that as it may, we were twenty-four hours cov-
ering it, and I do not think we had any rest or sleep during
the whole trip.

We passed the wonderful Hot or Steamboat Springs.
I remember seeing a dog run up to one of them as if to
lap the water, and as he did so his feet slipped into the
edge of the pool. He was so surprised at the heat that he
gave one yelp of pain and jumped into the middle of the
spring, stretched out his legs, and never gave another kick.
In a very short time the hair was all scalded off him. The
incident reminded me of the story of a Dutchman who,
when he came to a hot spring, ordered his teamster to drive
on, as hell could not be more than a mile away. We did
not feel to blame the Dutchman, if the springs were like
this; for, from the surroundings, hades did not appear to be
far off, and we passed on without any desire to linger about
the dreadful place. It was about 4 a. m. when, as we
approached the Humboldt River, our horses and cattle
hoisted their heads, began to sniff, and broke into a trot;
from that they started into a run, and we had enough to do
to keep up with them till they reached the water.

114 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

We had a short rest, and resumed our journey, for
there was no food for our stock, and the water was brack-
ish, so we traveled eight or ten miles and camped for the
night. As the grazing was still short, we made a very early
start, and were soon joined by two Indians, who remained
with us all day and were very friendly. When we camped
they stopped with us, and as we had been told the place
was a dangerous one for Indians, the presence of these two
caused a suspicion that they were spies, and probably would
signal their fellows when to attack the train.

We had been in camp only a short time when a white
horse was led in. The animal had a slight wound on his
wethers and a mark of blood some six inches down on his
shoulder. This wound had been caused by the horse roll-
ing on some burned willow stumps, one of the men having
seen him roll; and there were on the animal the black
marks from the charred wood. Yet some of the camp
insisted that the wounds were from Indian arrows. At this
time some one came up from the river and caused a flame
of excitement by saying he had seen an Indian skulking in
the brush, although he admitted that it might have been a
bird or a wild animal, for, while he saw something move,
he was not in a position to say just what it was. The dis-
cussion now waxed hot, and one jnan leveled his gun at one
of the Indians, declaring he would shoot him. The writer
was standing near by and caught the gun to prevent such
an act., and was in turn threatened with being shot, when
the trouble was stopped by others interfering.

That night, when the camp was called together as
usual, for prayers and consultation, and prayers had been
said, the same man who had threatened to shoot the Indian
moved that we lay by the next day, hunt down all the
Indians we could find, and by killing rid the country of the
"d — d black rascals." This startling proposition seemed
to stun the senses of the men for a moment, for no such

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN.

spirit had invaded the camp before, our motto being peace
on earth, good will to man. The proposition was so re-
pugnant to the writer's feelings that he made his maiden
speech in strongly opposing the motion, declaring that if
such a cruel step were taken he would be a swift witness
against all who engaged in the wicked and savage action;
he also asserted that he would inform on them at the earliest
opportunity, for as yet the Indians in that vicinity had done
us no harm, and it was as much murder to kill one of them
as to kill a white man. Others sided with the writer and
the matter was dropped.

We passed on up the river until we came to near the
narrows or canyon. There some of our stock was wounded
by Indian arrows. I do not recall just how many were
injured or died from their wounds. The Indians who did
the damage kept out of our sight.

I must mention Elder Addison Pratt, who joined us at
Sutter's Fort, as he was returning from a five years' mis-
sion to the Society Islands, in the South Pacific Ocean . He
was a great fisherman, and it was along this part of the
route that he used to catch the little speckled irout in such
numbers as to attract both our admiration and our gratitude.
He would go where no one else would ever think of finding
fish, and would meet with wonderful success. In fact, some
of the party were so astonished at his good luck that they
declared he could catch fish in a cow track. He was a
good, jolly soul, and made the best of everything.

Our train journeyed on in peace till we came to Goose
Creek, where the writer traded a mare to an Indian, for a
mule. The red man was given several articles for the dif-
ference. He sauntered around for a little while, then
mounted the mule, and away he wrent, taking the articles
with him. The writer pursued alone for four or five miles,
and first thing he knew was too near the Indian camp to
turn back, so he rushed in among them, dismounted,

Il6 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

changed the mare for the mule, and rode off. The Indians
looked surprised and frightened, and made no resistance. I
never realized the hazard I had taken till the danger was
over; then I was glad to rejoin my fellow-travelers.

We crossed Goose Creek Mountains and again struck
out into the trackless desert, pioneering our own way,
rolling the rocks and cutting the road. We reached the
Malad, a very difficult stream to cross, but we succeeded in
getting over without serious damage. From there our
route lay to the Bear River, which we crossed in safety by
blocking up our wagon boxes. I think the crossing was
made just above where Bear River City is now located.
From there we traveled southward under the base of the
mountains to where we found two springs, one of hot water
and the other of very cold water, within a very few feet of
each other; they flowed in the same gulch or ravine. Along
this route we had naught but an Indian trail to guide us.
When we reached Box Elder we thought it the finest place
we had seen since leaving Carson Valley.

While in California we had learned that the Latter-
day Saints had settled near the south end of the Great Salt
Lake; and as we had been in sight, from the mountains, of
the north end of the lake for some days, we began to feel
that we were nearing a place of rest. We journeyed on till
we came to the Ogden and Weber rivers, where we found
that Captain James Brown, of company C of the Mormon
Battalion, and a few of the Saints had settled; the country
looked very wild. We still pursued our way southward,
till we reached the present site of Salt Lake City, entering
the Sixth Ward Square — now Pioneer Square — where the
Saints had built houses and a stockade. I think the date
of our arrival at this place was the 28th of September,
1848.

We were heartily welcomed, by relatives and friends,
after our long and tedious march of near four thousand

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. Il7

miles, and our more than two years' absence from those we
loved and who loved us. Our meeting and greeting were
far more joyous and precious than the glittering gold we
had left behind. Neither our friends nor ourselves had any
regrets for our having left the gold fields when we remem-
bered our marching away, over two years before, to the
tune of "The Girl I Left Behind Me," for we were so very
glad to find her again, no matter if it were in a desert.
We all rejoiced, and gave thanks to God for His protecting
care and our safe return to the bosom of friends.

CHAPTER XVI.

CONTENTMENT AMONG THE SAINTS IN GREAT SALT LAKE VALLEY-
RUDE DWELLINGS AND SHORT RATIONS— TRYING EXPERIENCES-
RESCUE OF MORMON BATTALION MEMBERS FROM STARVATION-
CARRY NEWS OF THE CALIFORNL1 GOLD DISCOVERY TO THE
EAST-RE-UNION OF MORMON BATTALION MEMBERS— ADDRESSES
BY THE FIRST PRESIDENCY AND OTHERS— SETTLING A NEW
COUNTRY— ORGANIZATION OF MINUTE MEN— COLD WINTER— THE
GOLD FEVER— TENOR OF THE PREACHINGS AND PROPHESYINGS
OF THOSE TIMES— INSTRUCTING THE PEOPLE IN INDUSTRIAL
PURSUITS— POLICY TOWARD THE INDIANS.

NOTWITHSTANDING the fact of the aspect in the
Great Salt Lake Valley being gloomy, most of the
people were contented with their lot, although the experi-
ences of 1847 and 1848 had been anything but encourag-
ing. Some of the inhabitants were living in log cabins,
others in dugouts, and still others in wagons, while some
who did not have the latter had built brush sheds; almost
everybody was living on short rations, crickets and grass-
hoppers having destroyed most of the crops. The whole
face of the country was brown and dry, except small streaks

lib LIFE OF A PIONEER.

along the water courses. There was no provender for our
stock, and we could only turn them out. upon the range,
and trust them and ourselves to a kind Providence. Tim-
ber for fuel was in the mountains, and higher up in these
there was timber for fencing and building purposes. In
order to get either, we had to make roads at great expense,
building bridges and cutting dugways, sometimes going in
armed companies to protect ourselves from the threatening
Indian tribes. A long brush bowery was built in the town;
we met there for religious services, and for all other purposes
that made it necessary for the people to be called together.
October 6, 1848, a general conference of the Church
was held, and the people as a rule felt blessed, although
there were a few who were very much discouraged as the
rations grew short and the cold weather pinched more
closely.

Some time in October, news reached us that a small
detachment of the Mormon Battalion coming from Califor-
nia was starving to death on the western deserts. Their
old comrades in arms soon gathered supplies and fitted up
a team, and six or seven of us went out to give assistance.
We met the suffering company at the point of the West
Mountains, about two days earlier than we had expected.
The men were suffering, but not quite so badly as we had
been led to believe from the word we had got. It was
snowing when we met them, and continued to do so the
greater part of the night and of the next day, so that we
suffered much from cold before we reached shelter, for
everything was soaked through. The company brought
considerable gold, which was exhibited to many of the
; people.

Some of our comrades were not so fortunate as to find
their families in the Great Salt Lake Valley, so they pushed
on to where these had been left, in Iowa or Nebraska.
Those men bore the news of the great gold discovery in

$

CJO&&-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. II9

California, and, as evidence of the truth of their story ,showed
the precious metal they had secured. Thus the Mormon
Battalion not only was at the discovery of gold in Califor-
nia and took part therein, but bore the news thereof east-
ward, until it spread to the world, causing great excitement.

The last detachment of the battalion for the season
having arrived in the valley, a feast was prepared, and a
re-union of the soldiers and their friends was called. It
was made as grand an affair as could be under the circum-
stances, Presidents Brigham Young and Heber C. Kim-
ball leading out with liberal hands. We were welcomed
in royal style; interesting speeches were made by the First
Presidency of the Church, and also by the officers and sol-
diers of the battalion.

From that time things moved quietly, people making
roads and getting out timber for various purposes, herding
stock, fencing, and so on. At length the Indians began to
run off and kill the stock. A meeting was called and one
hundred men selected to enroll themselves as minute men,
the writer being one of the company. We were required
each to keep a horse on hand, and to be ready at a minute's
warning to march to any point of attack. We had to fit
out ourselves, as there was no quartermaster's department
on which officers could issue requisitions and have them
honored. We had to provide our own provisions, and
everything necessary for a campaign, at our own expense.
Most of the young men having horses of their own, and
many of them having become expert horsemen, a full quota
was furnished for the company. We had turned over to
the Church authorities, for the public defense, our two
brass Russian cannon. The minute men met for drill at
regularly appointed times.

The winter of 1848-9 was quite cold. Many people
had their feet badly frozen. For one, the writer suffered
so severely from this cause that he lost every nail from the <

120 LIFE OF A PIONEER

toes of both feet. In February and March there began to
be some uneasiness over the prospects,and as the days grew
warmer the gold fever attacked many so that they prepared
to go to California. Some said they would go only to have
a place for the rest of us; for they thought Brigham Young
too smart a man to try to establish a civilized colony in
such a "God-forsaken country," as they called the valley.
They further said that California was the natural country
for the Saints; some had brought choice fruit pips and
seed, but said they would not waste them by planting
in a country like the Great Salt Lake Valley; others
stated that they would not build a house in the val-
ley, but would remain in their wagons, for certainly our
leaders knew better than to attempt to make a stand in
such a dry, worthless locality, and would be going on to
California, Oregon or Vancouver's Island; still others said
they would wait awhile before planting choice fruits, as it
would not be long before they would return to Jackson
County, Missouri.

This discouraging talk was not alone bv persons who
had no experience in farming and manufacturing, but by
men who had made a success at their various avocations
where they had been permitted to work in peace, before
coming west. Good farmers said: "Why the wheat
we grew here last year was so short that we had to
pull it; the heads were not more than two inches long.
Frost falls here every month in the year — enough to cut
down all tender vegetation. More, James Bridger and
_Gudger, who have been in this country ten years or more,
say that corn cannot be raised anywhere in these mountains.
In fact, Bridger has told President Young that he will give
a thousand dollars for the first bushel of corn raised in the
open air here, for he says it cannot be done."

It was at this time of gloom that President Young
stood before the whole people, and said, in substance, that

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 121

some people had misgivings, and some were murmuring,
and had not faith to go to work and make their families
comfortable; they had got the gold fever and were going
to California. Said he: "Some have asked me about going.
I have told them that God has appointed this place for the
gathering of His Saints, and you will do better right here
than you will by going to the gold mines. Some have
thought they would go there and get fitted out and come
back, but I told them to stop here and get fitted out. Those
who stop here and are faithful to God and His people will
make more money and get richer than you that run after
the god of this world; and I promise you in the name of
the Lord that many of you that go, thinking you will get
rich and come back, will wish you had never gone away
from here, and will long to come back but will not be able
to do so. Some of you will come back, but your friends who
remain here will have to help you; and the rest of you who
are spared to return will not make as much money as your
brethren do who stay here and help build up the Church
and kingdom of God; they will prosper and be able to buy_,_ .
you twice over. Here is the place God has appointed for
His people. We have been kicked out of the frying-pan
into the fire, out of the fire into the middle of the floor, and
here we are and here we will stay, f God has shown me
that this is the spot to locate His people, and here is where
they will prosper; He will temper the elements for the
good of His Saints; He will rebuke the frost and the ster-
ility of the soil, and the land shall become fruitful. Breth-
ren, go to, now, and plant out your fruit seeds." Stretch-
ing his arms to the east and to the west, with his
hands spread out, he said: "For in these elements are not
only all the cereals common to this latitude, but the apple,
peach and plum; yea, and the more delicate fruits, the
strawberry and raspberry; and we will raise the grape here
and manufacture wine; and as the Saints gather here and

8

122 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

get strong enough to possess the land, God will temper
the climate, and we shall build a city and a temple to the
Most High God in this place. We will extend our settle-
ments to the east and west, to the north and to the south, and
we will build towns and cities by the hundreds,and thousands
of the Saints will gather in from the nations of the earth.
This will become the great highway of the nations. Kings
and emperors and the noble and wise of the earth will visit
us here, while the wicked and ungodly will envy us our
comfortable homes and possessions. Take courage, breth-
ren. I can stand in my door and Can see where there is
untold millions of the rich treasures of the earth — gold and
silver. But the time has not come for the Saints to dig
gold. It is our duty first to develop the agricultural re-
sources of this country, for there is no country on the earth
that is more productive than this. We have the finest cli-
mate, the best water, and the purest air that can be found
on the earth; there is no healthier climate anywhere. As
for gold and silver, and the rich minerals of the earth, there
is no other country that equals this; but let them alone; let
others seek them, and we will cultivate the soil; for if the
mines are opened first, we are a thousand miles from any
base of supplies, and the people would rush in here in such
great numbers that they would breed a famine; and gold
would not do us or them any good if there were no provis-
ions in the land. People would starve to death with bar-
rels of gold; they would be willing to give a barrel of gold
for a barrel of flour rather than starve to death. Then,
brethren, plow your land and sow wheat, plant your pota-
toes; let the mines alone until the time comes for you to hunt
gold, though I do not think this people ever will become a
mining people. It is our duty to preach the Gospel, gather
Israel, pay our tithing, and build temples. The worst fear
that I have about this people is that they will get rich in
this country, forget God and His people, wax fat, and kick

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 23

themselves out of the Church and go to hell. This people
will stand mobbing, robbing, poverty, and all manner of
persecution, and be true. But my greater fear for them is
that they cannot stand wealth; and yet they have to be tried
with riches, for they will become the richest people on this
earth."

My dear reader, the writer stood on the Sixth Ward
Square, Salt Lake City, in the year 1849, fifty-one years
ago, and heard the foregoing spoken by President Brig-
ham Young. Now it is 1900, and I bear my testimony to
the literal fulfillment of most of those sayings, and that por-
tion which has not yet come to pass I most assuredly be-
lieve will do so. I entreat the reader of this to pause and
reflect. Was there divine irspiration in this matter, or
not?

About the same time, Parley P. Pratt, one of the
Twelve Apostles, told the people to save the hides of their
cattle, tan them, and make boots and shoes for their fam-
ilies. He said that in the mountains there was spruce,
pine bark, and shumac, with tanning properties; advised
that they be gathered, and the beef hides tanned; and pre-
dicted that the time would come when leather would be
tanned here, and boots and shot^s would be manufactured
and exported. It was also stated that we would raise sheep
here, and would manufacture woollen fabrics and export
them.

As the writer walked away from meeting that day, in
company with some old and tried men, who had been
mobbed and robbed, and driven from their homes, and whom
he looked upon almost as pillars of the Church, one of them
said he had passed through such and such trials in the past,
but that that day, 1849, was the darkest he ever had seen
in the Church. The thought of trying to settle this bar-
ren land, he said, was one of the greatest trials he had met.
There were some three of the party particularly whom the

124 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

writer thought were staunch men; one of these asked an-
other what he thought of the preaching that day, and got

the reply that it would do "to preach to d d fools, but not

to men of sense" — that it was insulting to a man's better
senses, it was absurd to think that it was possible to manu-
facture anything for export from a country like this, where
we were more likely to starve to death than to do anything
else. Now, after half a century has passed away, the writer
refers to the manufacturing and mercantile establishments in
these mountain valleys to establish which were the divinely
inspired utterances of that day.

On one occasion in 1849, President Heber C. Kimball,
when preaching to the people, exhorted them to be faith-
ful as Saints, to cultivate the earth, and let others dig the
gold. He said it was not for the Saints to dig it, but the
time would come when they would learn to use it, and not
abuse it, or the power that it gives; they would possess it
by millions, and the time would come when people would
be willing to give a bushel of gold for a bushel of wheat,
when judgments and calamities would be poured out on
the nations of the earth. He declared that people would
come here by thousands, yea, tens of thousands would yet
flee to Zion for safety; they would come with their burdens
on their backs, having nothing to eat, and the people here
would have to feed them; others would bring their gold
and silver, and envy the people here their peace and com-
fort, for God would temper the climate so that the Saints
would be able to raise everything they needed. Elder
Kimball further said: "Brethren, build good, large gran-
aries, fill them with wheat, and keep it against the time when
it will be needed. Some people think we have passed the
day of trial, but let me tell you that you need not fear that,
for if you are faithful you shall have all the trials you can
bear, and if you are not faithful you will have more, and
will apostatize and go to hell. Some people have come

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 125

from the eastern states and the old country and said:
"Brother Kimball, O that we could have been with you in
Kirtland, in Jackson county, and in Nauvoo, and shared
the trials of the Saints with you!" Brethren, hold on a little
while, and you shall have all the trials you will be able to
stand; for God has said that He will have a tried people,
so you may prepare yourselves; for before the roof is on
the temple that we will build here, the devils will begin to
howl, and before the capstone is laid you will begin to have
your trials.- Your leaders will be hunted as wild beasts;
we shall not be with you, and men will be left to themselves
for awhile. Then is the time that you should be filled with
light, that you may be able to stand through the days of
trial. Now, you can leave your bench-tools on the work-
bench, and your plows and farming tools in the field; and
can lie down and go to sleep without locking or bolting
your doors; but the time will come when, if you do this,
your tools will be stolen from you. These mountains will
be filled with robbers, highwaymen, and all kinds of thieves
and murderers, for the spirit of the old Gadianton robbers
lurks here in the mountains, and will take possession of
men, and you will have to watch as well as pray, to keep
thieves away. Therefore, brethren, begin now to take
better care of your tools; attach locks and bolts to your
doors, and do not wait until the horse is stolen before you
lock the door." Elder Kimball referred to the fact that
the young men were becoming restless and did not know
what to do; they ran hither and thither to the mines, and
became rude and uncultivated. Said he: "Let me tell you,
boys, what to do. Marry the girls and build homes for
yourselves. Do not leave the young ladies to take up with
strangers who will marry them and then desert them. If
you do not marry them, I counsel the middle-aged and
old men to marry the girls and treat them well, and let
them have the opportunity to obey the first command of

126 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

God to man, to multiply and replenish the earth. Brethren,
take to yourselves more wives; for if you do not, the time
will come when you will not be permitted to do so. Seek
wisdom by faith and prayer; study and read all good books;
study the arts and sciences; build good schoolhouses, and
educate your children, that they may be able to perform
the great work that will come upon them."

Some of the most practical and best informed men in
the community were called to deliver free lectures on farm-
ing, stockraising. etc., for many of the people had come
from manufacturing centers and had no experience in agri-
cultural life, consequently these people needed instruction,
and it was given in every industrial pursuit that was prac-
ticable at the time, and that by experienced men. Thus
the people were incited in their labors to subdue this wild
and then desert land — for it was barren and waste in the
extreme.

President Brigham Young also instructed the people
to treat the Indians kindly, and divide food with them,
"for," said he, "it is cheaper to feed than to fight them.
Teach them that we are their friends. Indeed, treat every
man civilly and kindly; treat every man as a gentleman
until you prove him to be a rascal — then let him alone."

The foregoing is the tenor of the teaching and preach-
ing to the people in 1848 and 1849, m wnat is now the
State of Utah.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 27

CHAPTER XVII.

SCARCITY OF FOOD IN THE GREAT SALT LAKE VALLEY— WILD VEGETA-
BLES FOR GREENS— FAIR PROSPECTS FOR CROPS— CLOUDS OF
CRICKETS LAY BARE THE FIELDS— PEOPLE STRUGGLE AGAINST
THE PEST ALMOST TO DESPAIR— VAST FLOCKS OF SEA GULLS, AS
THE CLOUDS OF HEAVEN, COME TO THE RESCUE— DESTRUCTION
OF THE CRICKETS— PEOPLE PRAISE THE LORD— THE WRITER IN-
VITED TO A MEETING, ORDAINED A SEVENTY, AND CALLED WITH
OTHERS TO GO ON A MISSION TO THE SOCIETY ISLANDS— WORDS
OF PRESIDENTS BRIGHAM YOUNG AND HEBER C. KIMBALL— PREP-
ARATIONS TO TRAVEL TO CALIFORNIA WITH AN EMIGRANT
COMPANY— DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE BY CAPTAIN JEFFERSON
HUNT— START ON MY MISSION— PROPHECY BY PRESIDENT WILLARD
RICHARDS— BATTLE WITH INDIANS AT PROVO AVERTED BY APOS-
TLE C. C. RICH— PROSPECTS OF UTAH VALLEY TO SUPPORT POPU-
LATION—OVERTAKE THE EMIGRANT COMPANY— DISCUSSIONS AT
BEAVER RIVER— COMPANY STARTS FOR WALKER'S PASS— TURNED
BACK BY SCARCITY OF WATER— EXPERIENCE ON THE DESERT-
DISSENSIONS IN THE COMPANY— FUTILE ATTEMPT TO SEND SOME
OF THE MEMBERS BACK— APOSTLE C. C. RICH FORESEES FURTHER
TROUBLE, AND ENDEAVORS TO SAVE THE MORMON PART OF THE
TRAIN BY ADVISING THEM TO RETURN TO THE OLD SPANISH
TRAIL— METHODIST AND CAMPBELLITE MINISTERS INCITE THE
COMPANY AGAINST THIER MORMON GUIDE, CAPTAIN HUNT— MAIN
COMPANY DISREGARDS CAPTAIN HUNT'S WARNING OF DANGER,
AND LEAVES THE OLD SPANISH TRAIL TO SEARCH FOR THE
ROUTE THROUGH WALKER'S PASS-MORMONS GO WITH CAPTAIN
HUNT ON THE SOUTHERN ROUTE.

WHEN seed time came that year, provisions were
very scarce. People dug segos and thistle roots,
and gathered cow cabbage, as we called a plant that was
found in the canyons. We ate these as greens, cooked the
hides of beef cattle — in fact, gathered everything eatable,
and worked hard and put in our crops. These started out
with fair prospects for harvest until the grain was from one
to six inches high. Then there came down from the moun-

128 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

tains myriads of black crickets, their bodies nearly as large
as a man's thumb. They entered upon wheat and corn
fields, and swept or ate every green thing before them.
Field after field was cleared of vegetation. Whole families
with their chickens moved out to their farms and made
war upon the crickets. Men, women and children fought
from morning till night, and still the enemy advanced from
field to field. Men almost despaired, women wept, and to
all human appearance our cause was lost. The crickets
ate the crops so close into the ground that they could not
start again. The people held fast meetings and prayed for
protection. I am not positive that there were any special
meetings for that purpose, but it was customary to fast and
pray the first Thursday in each month.

Almost everybody was in despair, and the enemy did
not seem to be diminished in numbers. With their war
cry, or ce-ce, the crickets advanced, and, seeming to call
up their reserve forces, with a bold front kept up their
march. Then there came from the west and northwest
what seemed to me might be justly called the clouds of
heaven, or perhaps more properly the clouds of salvation.
These were white sea gulls, which flew so close together and
were so numerous as to form a cloud wherever they went.
They covered almost the whole farming district north and
southeast of the city — the main farming district in Salt Lake
Valley at that time; they visited Davis County and other
places as well; and when they lit down the fields looked as
though covered with snow. The gulls came at sunrise
and returned to the west at sundown, after having gorged
and disgorged themselves the entire day, being tame as
chickens. They kept up the work of deliverance day
after day, as the crickets continued to come down from the
mountains. I believe that was the first time this kind of
birds had been seen by any of the settlers. When they
had completed their work of mercy they went away,

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 120.

leaving a grateful people who returned thanks to the Giver
of every good gift. The Saints in the valley then were
united and their meetings were well attended.

One Sunday, Brother Jedediah M. Grant came down
from the stand, took the writer by the arm, and asked him
to take a walk. The request was granted readily, and 1
was led to Brother Lorenzo Young's house on City Creek,
where we found the First Presidency, some members of
the Twelve Apostles, and some of the first council of the
^Seventies. There the writer was ordained to the Priest-
hood of a Seventy, and his name was enrolled in the third
•quorum. Shortly after that he was invited with others to
attend a council meeting of the First Presidency and
Twelve Apostles, in President Kimball's schoolhouse.
When we got in and were seated, President Young said,
"Brethren, if any of you have anything to say, say on."
There being no response, the president rose to his feet and
said, "I move that Elders Addison Pratt, Hyrum Black-
well and James S. Brown take a mission to the Society
Islands, in the South Pacific Ocean." President H. C.
Kimball said, "I second the motion." The question was
put and unanimously sustained, and the president turned to
me and asked, "Brother James, will you go?" The answer
was, "I am an illiterate youth, cannot read or write, and I
do not know what good I can do; but if it is the will of the
Lord that I should go, and you say so, I will do the best
that I can." The president then took a seat near me, plac-
ing his right hand on my left knee, and said, "It is the
will of the Lord that you go, and I say go; I am not afraid
to risk you. And I promise you in the name of the Lord
God of Israel that if you go you will be blessed, and do good,
and be an honor to yourself and to the Church and kingdom
of God. Although men will seek your life, you shall be
spared and return to the bosom of the Church in safety."

This council was on Sunday evening, some time in

I30 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

September, 1849. and we were to start no later than the
10th of October; indeed, we were instructed to get ready
as soon as possible, so that we could join a company of
emigrants which was organizing to go through to California
by the southern route, as it was too late to go by the north-
ern route.

As Elder Addison Pratt and I had agreed to go sow-
ing wheat together on Monday morning, I thought I could
speak to him without any notice being taken of it. I said
to him, in a low tone of voice, that I guessed we would rot
sow much wheat next day. President H. C. Kimball
jumped from his seat as quick as a flash, and pointing his
finger directly at me, said, "What is that, Brother Jim mie?"
When I told him what I had said, he continued, "Jimmie, it
is not for you to sow wheat or to reap it, but your calling
is to sow the good seed of the Gospel, and gather Israel
from this time henceforth. Mind that, now; let others sow
the wheat." From that time I felt a weight of responsibil-
ity that I had never thought of before.

We then went to preparing for our journey. Apostle.
C. C. Rich had been called to go through to California, so
he and Brother Pratt and I fitted up a team, I having a
good wagon and one yoke of oxen; they each furnished a
yoke of oxen. In a few days we were ready for the start.
We had a rodometer attached to our wagon, to measure
the distance.

In the meantime, the emigrants called a meeting before
taking their departure. They had employed Captain
Jefferson Hunt of company A, Mormon Battalion fame, to
be their guide, as he had come through that route with
pack animals. He was invited to tell them what they
might expect. He described the route to them with the
roughest side out, lest they might say that he had misled
them by making things more favorable than they really
were. In concluding his remarks he said: "From Salt

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF [AMES S. BROWN. 131

Springs, we cross to a sandy desert, distance seventy-five
miles to Bitter Springs, the water so bitter the devil would
not drink it; and from thence away hellwards, to California or
some other place. Now, gentlemen, if you will stick together
and follow me, I will lead you through to California all right;
but you will have to make your own road, for there is none
save the old Spanish trail from Santa Fe to California, by
the Cajon Pass through the Sierra Nevada Mountains."

The emigrant company consisted of about five hun-
dred souls, and one hundred wagons and teams, the latter
in poor condition. Feeling in high spirits, the company
moved out between the ist and 8th of October. C. C. Rich,
Francis Pomeroy and I remained to follow up on horse-
back, in three or four days. Pratt and Blackwell, taking
our team, started with the main body. They got to the
Cottonwoods, when one of my oxen became so lame that
they could not proceed any farther. Blackwell returned to
inform me of the situation, and I went down and traded
with John Brown, late Bishop of Pleasant Grove, for another
ox, mine having been pricked in shoeing. Then they
overtook the main company, and all proceeded together.

On the 8th we followed. I started out alone, to meet
with the others at Cottonwood. As I passed the home of
Dr. Willard Richards, counselor to President Brigham
Young, Dr. Richards came out and met me; he took me by
the right knee with his right hand, as I sat on my horse,
and said, "Starting out on your mission, I suppose?" I
replied, "Yes, sir." "Well, Brother James, I am glad, and
sorry; glad to have you go and preach the Gospel, and
sorry to part with good young men that we need in open-
ing up a new country." At that he gave my knee an
extra grip. Stretching his left hand out to the southwest,
his chin quivering and his eyes filling with tears, he said,
"Brother James, when you are upon yonder distant islands,
called to preside over a branch of the Church of Jesus

132 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Christ of Latter-day Saints, men will seek your life, and to
all human appearance, there will be no possible escape:
then look unto God, and His angels shall draw near unto
you, and you shall be delivered, to return home to this
people. Do not stop to write to Brother Pratt, your
president, to Brother Brigham, or to me, for you will
require the immediate protection of God. Then put your
trust in Him, and He will deliver you; for I promise you
in the name of Israel's God that you shall be delivered
from your enemy and return to this people. Goodbye, and
God bless you." Need I tell the reader that my mind was
greatly impressed by those prophetic words, their inspired
character being established so vividly in my later exper-
ience? Prophetic I knew them to be, and impressive they
were indeed; and the impression has been deep and
lasting.

I then went on to Brother Jacob M. Truman's, on Big
Cottonwood Creek, and stayed with him that night. Next
morning I passed on to Brother William Bills', where I met
with Brothers C. C. Rich and F. Pomeroy, and we pro-
ceeded on to Provo by the Indian trail, having been joined
by Alexander Williams, with whom we stayed.

At Provo we learned that the citizens and Indians had
had some trouble, and there was considerable excitement,
as there were but few settlers at that place and the Indians
were quite numerous. The latter were singing war songs
and working up a spirit of war preliminary to making an
attack that night or next morning, as was supposed. The
people were preparing to receive them as best they could.
Guards were posted around the camp, and men put on
picket duty, so that any enemy might be discovered readily.

The Indians made no move until after daylight; but

just before sunrise they started from their camps in force,

to attack us. We advanced to meet them, so as to prevent

heir assailing us in the small fort, where the women and

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 33

children were. The savages marched up as if to give us
open battle. We formed across the road, and each man
took his post ready for action. I always have believed that
if it had not been for the presence of Apostle C. C. Rich,
and his cool, conciliatory action, there would have been
bloodshed, for there were some very hot-headed white men,
who would have preferred war to peace. Through Brother
Rich's influence, the cause of the trouble was looked into, a
conciliation effected, and war averted, so that after break-
fast we of the missionary party proceeded on to what was
called Hobble Creek — now the city of Springville, with a
population of over two thousand souls. I remember that
we thought the place would be capable of sustaining eight
or ten families, or a dairy, believing there was not enough
water for more.

From Hobble Creek we passed on from one small
stream to another, expressing our opinion as to the capacity
of the water supply; and in no instance did we suppose
that there was water sufficient for more than fifteen fam-
ilies, judging from what we could see then. Again, the
barrenness of the country was such that it did not seem
that more than seventy-five or a hundred head of cattle
could find feed within reach of water. Now thousands of
head of horned stock and horses are sustained at the same
places.

We kept on our way until we overtook the wagon
train on Sevier River. We came up with the emigrants
just as they were ready to move on, but did not find them
so full of glee as they were on the start from the city. Still,
we rolled on very peaceably until we came to Beaver River,
where the country began to look more forbidding. Then
the ardor of the emigrants began to weaken.

At this place the company was joined by a man named
Smith with a pack train of about seventeen men; also James
Flake, with thirty Latter-day Saints; besides, there were

134

LIFE OF A PIONEER.

William Farrer, John Dixon. H. W. Bigler, George Q
Cannon, and others, whose names I do not now recall.
Smith felt confident that he could find Walker's Pass, in
the Sierra Nevada Mountains. This supposed pass had
been spoken of often, but men had been disappointed as
often in finding it, or rather in not finding it. Smith's story
excited our whole camp so that there was a general desire
to try the new route, and go down through the canyon and
out on to the sandy desert. The whole company except
a very few favored the idea of leaving the route they had
hired a guide for, and they urged Captain Hunt to strike
out and look for water. He said, "Gentlemen, I agreed to
pilot you through to California on the Old Spanish Route
by the Cajon Pass. I am ready to do so, and am not
under any obligations to lead you in any other way; and if
you insist on my doing so you must be responsible, for I
will not be responsible for anything. On this condition, if
you insist on changing your route, I will do the best I can
to find water, but I do not have any reason to hope for suc-
cess when I leave the trail."

The company hurrahed for the Walker Pass, and
Captain Hunt struck out a day ahead while the company
shod and doctored their lame and sick stock for one day.
Then we moved out ten miles on to the plain southwest of
where Minersville, Utah, now stands, and camped.

Sometime in the night Captain Hunt came into camp,
so near choked from the lack of water that his tongue was
swollen till it protruded from his mouth; his eyes were so
sunken in his head that he could scarcely be recognized.
His horse, too, for the need of water, was blind, and stag-
gered as he was urged on. Their stay had been thirty-six
hours, on the sands, without water. About 2 o'clock
next morning our stock stampeded from the guards and
ran back to water. Two-thirds of the men went in pursuit,

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 35

and animals and men did not return to camp till 2 o'clock in
the afternoon.

By this time confusion and discontent abounded in
camp. A committee was appointed to inquire into the
condition of every team, and to ascertain the food supply,
with the avowed intention of sending all back who failed
to have what were considered the requisites for the journey.
I think that one-third of the company, our wagon included,
were found wanting when weighed in that committee's
balances. But when we were ordered to return, those who
gave the command found that they were without authority
and no one would heed them. So the discontent was
patched up for a time, and we proceeded on to Little Salt
Lake Valley, where we struck the old Spanish trail again.
Then the company began to split up, some going on after
night, and others stopping.

Brother C. C. Rich told me that it had been shown to
him that there was going to be trouble, and he felt led to
believe that if we would go with the pack train he could
at least lead the brethren there back on to the trail and
save them. This was in the night, as we slept together in
the wagon. He awoke and asked me if I were awake.
Finding that I was, he told me what would befall the com-
pany. To save the brethren and all who would heed him,
he purchased some ponies and went with the packers.

As we passed along the Spanish trail — said to be three
hundred and fifty years old — on the great desert, we could
follow the route by the bones of dead animals in many
places. It is said that many fierce battles have been fought
between Mexicans and Indians along this trail. So far as
we were concerned, although it was known that the Indians
were very hostile, they gave us no trouble.

When we reached what is called the Rim of the Basin,
where the waters divide, part running into the Colorado
River and on to the Pacific Ocean, and part into the Salt

136 LIFE OF A PIONEER

Lake Valley, the company called meetings, and several
made speeches, saying there must be a nearer and better
route than that on which the Mormon guide was leading
them. One Methodist and one Campbellite preacher in the
company said that they had started to California, and not
hellwards, as the Mormon guide had stated at the outset,
quoting what Captain Hunt had said just before starting.
Others claimed that they had been on the mountains, and
upon looking west had seen something green, which they
asserted was an indication of water. Some of them cele-
brated the proposed separation from us by boring holes in
trees then filling these with powder and firing them, ex-
ploded the trees in symbol of the break-up of the company.
Next morning all but seven wagons turned off to the
right, toward the supposed Walker's Pass. We preferred
to follow the guide. The company was thoroughly warned
by Captain Hunt of the danger of dying from lack of
water. In our party there were eleven men, two women
and three children. The main company expressed pity for
us and tried to persuade us to go with them, but we felt
confident that our course was the safest, notwithstanding
their superior numbers. They seemed to rejoice at their
conclusion, while we regretted it for their sakes. Thus we
separated, the emigrant company heading for Walker's
Pass, and our small party continuing on the old Spanish
trail, or southern route to California.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 37

CHAPTER XVIII.

CAUGHT IN A SNOWSTORM— VIA THE SANTA CLARA AND RIO VIRGEN TO
THE MUDDY— NEWS OF SAD DISASTER TO THE EMIGRANT COM-
PANY—MAKING CHARCOAL AND NAILS— AN APOSTLE AS A BLACK-
SMITH—SEARCHING FOR WATER ON THE DESERT— CROSSING AN
ALKALI STREAM— DISCOVER GOLD NEAR SALT SPRINGS— HURRY-
ING ON OVER THE DESERT — CATTLE POISONED AT BITTER
SPRINGS-KILLING ANIMALS TO RELIEVE THEIR SUFFERINGS-
FIRST WAGON OVER CAJON PASS, GOING WEST— SEVERE JOURNEY
TO THE SUMMIT OF THE PASS— ALL GET OVER SAFELY— SENSE OF
GREAT RELIEF-GRASS AND WATER IN ABUNDANCE— OVERTAKEN
BY SURVIVORS OF THE EMIGRANT COMPANY— THEIR STORY OF
TERRIBLE SUFFERING— DIVIDE PROVISIONS WITH THEM— CELE-
BRATING CHRISTMAS, 1849— CONTINUING THE JOURNEY NORTH-
SPANISH WARNING IN A CEMETERY TO INDIANS— CRUELTY OF
THE SPANIARDS TO THE INDIANS— THE WRITER PLACED IN
CHARGE OF THE COMPANY— DIRECTED TO GO TO THE GOLD
MINES.

WHEN the company had separated the weather was
very threatening, and it soon began to snow very
fast. We pulled on until late in the afternoon, and camped
on the mountain. Next day we came to some Indian farms
where the savages had raised corn, wheat and squash. We
passed on to the Santa Clara, followed it down for three or
four days, and found a written notice to those who came
that way : " Look out, for we have killed two Indians
here." With this warning, we felt that we must keep a
vigilant guard all the time. From the Santa Clara we had
a very long drive across the mountain and down a long, dry,
rocky slope until we came to the Rio Virgen. We went
along that stream three or four days; where we left it we
found a cow with an Indian arrow sticking in her. We
next passed over a high plateau to a stream well named the
Muddy. There we laid by and doctored and shod our
lame cattle.

13b LIFE OF A PIONEER.

While we were on the Muddy, Brother C. C. Rich
and party came down the stream to us, bringing sad and
heartrending news from the great emigrant company, which
had broken into factions and become perfectly demoralized
and confused. Some had taken packs on their backs and
started on foot, their cattle dying, their wagons abandoned.
All were despondent, and unwilling to listen to anybody. I
think, from the best information we ever got of them, I
would be safe in saying that four-fifths of them met a most
horrible fate, being starved or choked to death in or near
what was afterwards called Death Valley. In after years
the miners of Pahranagat found the irons of the wagons
very handy for use in their pursuits.

On the Muddy we burned charcoal and made nails to
shoe our cattle, having to throw the animals down and hold
them while Apostle C. C. Rich shod them. Brother Rich
did his work well, for the shoes never came loose till they
wore off.

From the Muddy I accompanied Captain Hunt and
Henry Rollins twelve miles and found some small pools of
water about two miles to the right of the trail; I went back
to turn the packers to it, while Captain Hunt and Henry
Rollins went ahead in search of more pools of water and
found some. George Q. Cannon and I stayed there as
guides for the wagon train, and turned them off to the
water. When the train arrived, about 11 o'clock p. m., we
had to dip water with cups and water the stock from buck-
ets. Then we pressed on till daylight, made a halt long
enough to take breakfast, and pushed on, for there was no
feed for our stock.

About 2 p. m. we came to the Los Vegas, where we
rested a day, then continued our journey over mountains
and across dry deserts from day to day until we reached a
stream of water about three rods wide. It was so strong
with alkali that We dared not allow our cattle to drink of it,

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 39

but put the lash to them so that they could not get a sup"
as we crossed it twice. Thence we traveled across a very
sandy desert for twelve miles to the Salt Springs, where the
train went around a point of the mountain. A. Pratt and
I, with three or four others, followed on a small trail that
passed over a notch of the mountain. While going through
a narrow pass, Brother A. Pratt said it looked as if there
might be gold there. At that we went to looking in the
crevices of the rock, and in a few minutes one of the party
found a small scale, and then another. Among the rest, I
saw the precious metal projecting from a streak of quartz
in the granite rock. From there we went over about one
and a half miles to the Salt Springs, and met with the
teams. Several of the party journeyed back to look
further for the gold. I took along a cold chisel and ham-
mer, and chipped out some at the place I had found, but as
our teams were weakening very fast and there was neither
food nor water at that place to sustain our stock, we had
to push on across the sandy desert of seventy-five miles,
day and night, until we came to the Bitter Springs.

These were the springs that Captain Hunt had told
the emigrant company about before they left Salt Lake
City, that from thence it was '(away hellward to California
or some other place." It certainly began to look that way
now, when our cattle began to weaken and die all along
the trail. The springs would have been as properly named
if they had been called Poison Springs, instead of Bitter,
for it seemed that from that place our cattle began to
weaken every moment, and many had to be turned loose
from the yoke and then shot to get them out of their
misery.

We had to shoot one of Brother Pratt's oxen to end
its suffering. This act fell to my lot. Oh, how inhuman
and cruel it seemed to me, to drive the patient and faithful
dumb animal into a barren desert, where there is neither

I4O LIFE OF A PIONEER.

food nor drink, to goad him on until he falls from sheer
exhaustion, so that he bears any punishment, to make him
rise, that his master sees fit to inflict, without giving a sin-
gle moan, then to walk around and calmly look him in the
face and fire the deadly missile into his brain, then leave his
carcass to the loathsome wolves and birds of prey!

In looking back over a period of fifty years since
then, the writer cannot call to memory a single act in
his life that seemed so cruel and ungrateful as that; and
still there was no earthly means to save the poor creature
from a more horrible death, which would have come if he
had been left in that driving snowstorm, when his whole
frame shook with cold, there to lie and starve— one of the
most miserable deaths that the human mind can conceive
of. Of the two evils we chose the least by ending the
suffering in a moment, when it would have taken hours if
it had not been for this act of mercy, as we call it after
taking in the whole situation.

From Bitter Springs our team took the lead to the end
of the journey, or to Williams' Ranch, being the first team
that ever crossed over the Cajon Pass going west, as I re-
member. Ascending to the first pass from the Bitter
Springs our situation was most gloomy. In mud and
snow, with darkness come on, every rod of the road
became more steep and difficult. The summit wras two
miles ahead and the nearest team half a mile back. We
moved by hitches and starts, and could only make three or
four rods at a time. Two of us pushed at the wagon while
the other drove. Our guide was a few feet ahead, mark-
ing out the road, and saying, "Crowd up, boys, if possible.
Let us wallow on over the summit, for it is our only salva-
tion to cross and try to open the road if possible for the
weaker teams."

Finally, with a shout of triumph, we reached the sum-
mit in two feet of snow, at 11 o'clock at night. Our guide

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. I4I

told us to go on down and build fires at the first place where
we could find anything for our stock, and he would go
back and cheer the rest on as best he could.

The descent being quite steep, we soon made the dis-
tance of three or four miles to where there was but about
six inches of snow, and where we found some feed. Our
matches were all damp, and we were wet as could be. We
split up our spare yoke and struck fire with flint and steel,
crawled into the wragon, and started a fire in the frying-pan.
Then, as there was plenty of fuel, we made a roaring fire
outside, took a bite to eat, and turned in for a few moments'
rest, being satisfied that the others of the party had halted
before they reached the summit, and as the guide was with
them we thought they would take a rest and come on at
daybreak.

This conjecture proved right, for about 4 o'clock a. m.
Captain Hunt hallooed to us and called for a cup of coffee.
He seemed to be chilled to the bone, so we soon stirred
the fire and got him something to eat. He told us all the
teams would make the riffle, but for us to have a good fire,
for some of the men would be chilled nearly to death.
Then he directed us to go ahead until we found feed for
the stock, and he would remain until the company came
up. We advanced about ten miles, and halted for our cat-
tle to feed and rest. In the meantime we discovered the
company coming down the slope of the mountain. Our
feelings, as well as theirs, were much relieved at the sight,
as we beheld each other, and when they had rested their
teams they came on to our camping place for another stop,
while we moved ahead to the Mohave River. When we
reached that stream, I presume that we felt as pleased as a
man liberated from a life sentence in a dungeon, for we
had reason to feel assured that we would succeed in our
journey, as we had only one more hard scramble of thirty
miles, and had pleasant weather and plenty of feed and

I42 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

water for our stock, with time to rest in. Some shouted :
"Daylight once more; thank God for our deliverance!"

It was while we lay here that some of the company
which had parted with us at the Rim of the Basin came
up to us with packs on their backs, half-starved. The
story of the condition of their comrades was horrifying
beyond description. Men, women and children suffered
death alike b}^ thirst and starvation. This painful episode
affords one more instance of where the majority had been
wrong and the minority right. The new arrivals said that
when we parted from them they were sorry for us. But
now we were more sorry for them than they had been
for us.

We divided our food the second or third time to re-
lieve these starving people, then pursued our course up
stream for nine or ten days. There we rested our cattle,
did some hunting, and replenished our food supply with
wild meat, principally venison, quail and rhe gray squirrel.
We found plenty of wild grapes, and also discovered that
the raccoon lived in that part of the world.

It was about the 17th of December when we crossed
the Cajon Pass, in the Sierra Nevada Mountains; from
thence we moved via the Cocomonga Ranch to Williams'
Ranch, arriving there on December 24th. At Williams'
we found C. C. Rich and party; we joined in with them
and had a good Christmas dinner. There we traded for
new supplies, to last us up to the gold mines on the Mari-
posa and the Stanislaus rivers, in northern California, or
the upper country. The writer acted as pilot, interpreter
and quartermaster for the company of something like fifty
men.

It was about the 27th of January when we left the
ranch, from which we traveled to Los Angeles, thence
twenty miles to the north, where C. C. Rich and ten or fif-
teen men left us, and H. Egan took charge of the company

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. I43

as captain. We followed up the Santa Barbara road at
the rate of fifteen miles per day. The roads were very
rough and hilly. The whole country was still in a very
wild state. We were frequently warned to be on our guard
for bandits, which were said to be roaming in the locality.
We passed in peace, however, nothing out of the general
routine happening until we arrived at the San Antonio
Mission. The alcalde invited me into the chapel. To me,
at that time, it seemed to be very grand, so attractive was
the decoration. The alcalde then opened the gates of the
cemetery, in which I saw a pillar of burnt adobes with four
Indian skulls on it, for the rest of the Indians to see what
they might expect if they committed any outrages on the
citizens.

From all that I have learned about Spain's treatment
of the red men, it has been very cruel, yet the Spaniards
claimed their methods were necessary in order to Christian-
ize the aborigines. At that time the Indians in California
were more cruelly treated than the slaves in the south;
many of them had scars on their backs ten or twelve inches
long, caused by the lash of the Spaniards.

We continued our journey up towards San Francisco
until the nth of February, when we arrived at a town
called the Mission San Juan. There we received a letter
from Apostle C. C. Rich; it was dated February 8, 1850.
The mission was old and dilapidated, and at that date was
occupied by a very rough class of men. The surrounding
country was very beautiful and fertile.

About 7 o'clock that same evening Captain Howard
Egan assembled the company together, and called on the
writer to take charge. Then he went forward to overhaul
the company that had preceded us. Next morning we
continued on our journey, crossing a deep stream of water,
and going to near Fisher's Ranch, where we received a
few lines from Captain Egan, ordering us to stop the ox

i44

LIFE OF A PIONEER.

teams and forward the mule teams to San Jose to get pro-
visions. We obeyed, and purchased a beef animal and
dried the meat.

When Captain Egan returned to camp he told me that
Apostle C. C. Rich thought I had better continue with the
company on to the mines, until I saw or heard from him
again. Accordingly I did so.

Retracing our steps about four miles, we turned to the
left on a trail that led us to Gilroy's Ranch, thence to
Rancho Pacheco. There we met a Frenchman who di-
rected us across the mountains. Meantime our company
appointed six of us to precede the wagons and mark out
the road, as we were again entering into a wilderness with
no roads except Indian and wild animals' trails.

CHAPTER XIX.

JOURNEYING TOWARD THE GOLD DIGGINGS— THREATENED BY WILD
HORSES— DIFFICULTIES OF TRAVELING-CONVOCATION OF THE
FEATHERED CREATION— REJOIN OUR FRIENDS— FERRYING ACROSS
A RIVER— STRIKE A GOLD PROSPECT— ON A PROSPECTING TOUR—
AN AGREEMENT THAT FAILED— INSTRUCTED TO GO TO SAN FRAN-
CISCO TO PROCEED ON A MISSION— TRIP TO STOCKTON— GAMBLERS,
SHARPERS AND MINERS AT THAT PLACE— A TEMPTATION OVER-
COME—ARRIVE IN SAN FRANCISCO— WELCOMED BY SAINTS— RE-
CEIVE KIND TREATMENT— ON BOARD A VESSEL BOUND FOR
TAHITI.

ON the second day of our journey toward the mines
we were confronted by a band of wild mustang
horses. Two of our men who happened to be half a mile
ahead of the other four of us were cut off from us by the
wild animals, so that the confusion of the situation was
such that we did not rejoin them for three days. The
band was about three hours in passing us, and the trail was

AUTOBlUoRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 45

one mile in width. We thought it a low estimate to say
that there were seven or eight thousand horses. There
seemed to be hundreds of the finest animals dashing up
and down, flanking the main herd, and driving, and shaping
the course followed. To save ourselves and our horses
from being taken in by them, we tied our horses' heads
close together, and then stood between them and the wild
band with our rifles in hand ready to shoot the leaders or
any stallion that might attempt to gather in our horses, as
we had heard that they did not hesitate to attempt to do
when out on the open plains as we were. We supposed
from all that we could learn that they had been to the San
Joaquin River for water, and were returning over the plains
to the foothills for pasture. The noise made by them as
they galloped past us was like distant, heavy thunder, only
it was a long, continuous roar or rumbling sound; we stood
in almost breathless silence, and mingled fear and delight,
and viewed the magnificent picture. At last the animals
passed, and we heaved a sigh of relief.

We proceeded on for about four hours, when we had
to call another halt and take similar precautions, and for
the same reason, except that there were only about five
hundred horses. When they passed we steered our course
for the lower end of the Tulare Lake, where, so we had
heard, a ferry had been located a few days before. As
there was no road to travel, we thought we would go high
enough and then follow the San Joaquin River down until
we came to the crossing.

Night overtaking us, we camped by a slough where
bear tracks, large and small, were in great abundance. For
fear of Indians we dared not make much fire, so we passed
a very lonely night, being filled with anxiety about our lost
comrades, not knowing wrhat had become of them; for, as
near as my memory serves me, this was our second night
•camp since they were separated from us. To add to our

I46 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

troubles and gloom, the night was intensely dark, and a
drizzling rain was falling.

Suddenly our horses all broke from us. We followed
them by the sound of their feet as they ran, and after
a long chase through swamps and sloughs we succeeded
in capturing them. Then the next trouble came. We
had lost one man and all our pack, and were without
supper. Being out of hailing distance, it was by mere
chance that we found our man and camp late in the night.
Our horses had become so frightened that it was necessary
to sit up till morning, to keep them quiet; so that only two
of us could get a dreamy snooze at a time.

Next morning dawned and our friends were still miss-
ing. We journeyed on, passing down the sloughs to the
river. At times it seemed that the whole feathered tribe
had met over our heads and all around in one grand carni-
val, to consult over the advent of the white man into that
swampy country. We had never before beheld such a
grand aggregation of waterfowl, and the writer has never
seen its equal since. For a time, we could not understand
each other's talk, because of the clatter. Our next sur-
prise was about five hundred elk which passed in front of
us, but the deep sloughs between prevented our replenish-
ing our scanty store of rations.

Soon we were pleased at falling in with our lost
friends. They had found a lone wagon trail towards the
river. We dispatched two of our party to meet the main
company, and the rest of us followed the wagon trail to the
river, where we found a man named Woods who had got
there three days ahead of us, with a rowboat and a small
supply of provisions and groceries. Salt pork and hard
sea biscuit were selling at seventy-five cents per pound,
and everything else proportionately high. The boat had
just been launched.

The next day, when the wagons came in, we took

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF |AMES S. BROWN. I47

them apart and crossed in a boat, all except my wagon; it
being heavy and having the rodometer attached to it, we
got a cable rope and thought to tow the wagon over with
the load, but when it had reached the middle of the river,
which was about fifteen rods wide, the rope parted and the
wagon turned over and over. Then Irwin Stoddard jumped
in and made the rope fast to the hind axle, and as he could
not manage the pole of the wagon, I jumped in to help him.
Between us, we liberated the pole, so that after great exer-
tion and hazard of life we finally succeeded in saving the
vehicle, but we were thoroughly chilled through. We did
not cross our animals till next morning, when we drove
them in and they swam over, and we were soon on our
way to and up the Merced River. Six of us proceeded
ahead of the teams, traveling on horseback, to see what
we could learn that would be of benefit to the company.
On the third day, I think it was, we came to a small
mining camp called Burns' Diggings, on the south side of
the Merced River. There we struck a very good pros-
pect, and stopped until the main company came up. As it
was evident that we could take from twelve to fifteen dol-
lars per day to the man, we advised the company to begin
work there, as the country was so muddy and soft that we
could not make much headway in traveling higher into the
foot hills. They agreed to accept our advice; then came
a quite laughable performance. Those who had been the
very worst drones in camp were now the first with the pick
and washpan. They pitched into the creek as if they
expected to scoop up the gold by shovelfuls, leaving their
teams hitched to their wagons; while those who had been
on hand early and late, taking a more methodical view of
things, first formed the camp, got their dinner, and then
went quietly to prospecting up and down the creek. By
this time our drones decided there was no gold there, and
that they would go where there was some. What a lesson

I48 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Ave learned there of human nature! The next day, how-
ever, things settled down a little more like business, after
it was ascertained that some had been making from fifteen
to twenty-five and fifty, and some even as high as one
hundred dollars per day, to the man. Next day, Captain
Egan and five others of our number were elected to go
further up into the mountains and prospect for the company,
while the others dug gold. The latter were to keep an
account of all they earned, and when we returned they
were to give us an equal share with those who stayed and
worked.

On these conditions six of us set out on horseback and
with pack mules. When we got well into the mountains
it began to rain and snow so that we were not able to do
much but cut browse for our horses. The snow became
so deep that we had to go ahead of our horses and break
the road so as to get out. We wTere soaked to the skin,
and our bedclothes were all wet. Our provisions were
almost gone; so we set out for our camp, after spending
ten days in a most miserable condition. We traveled in
snow two and a half feet deep from 2 p. m. until 6 a.
m. before we succeeded in reaching camp, when we found
that Apostle Rich had been there, and the men had sent
every dollar's worth of gold they had dug in our absence
to Stockton for supplies of provisions, clothing, tools, etc.,
so there was none left to pay us our proportion.

As Apostle C. C. Rich had brought word that Brother
A. Pratt desired me to meet him in San Francisco by a
certain date, I packed up my effects, sold my oxen to
Captain Jefferson Hunt for two hundred dollars, and bade
adieu to the rest of the camp, who owed me one hundred
dollars, and they yet owe it.

I traveled in company with C. C. Rich and Howard
Egan. On the 20th of March, when we got out of the
hills, we took the main road to Stockton, crossing the

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1/j.Q

Merced, Tuolumne, and Stanislaus rivers, all tributaries to
the San Joaquin River. We arrived in Stockton on March
28th. The place was at that time a point of debarkation
where freight was landed for the many mining camps.-
There were a few trading establishments and warehouses,
and three or four large gambling houses in and around
which were gathered freighters, packers, and one of the
most motley gangs it has ever been my lot to see. Bands
of music were in the gambling halls. At one of these I
noted twelve tables, four men at each, armed with bowie
knives and revolvers; and to me it looked as if there were
more gold and silver exposed on those twelve tables than
six mules could draw. On the street and around the door,
calling on the passers-by to come in and have a free drink
and listen to the- music, were men whom I soon learned
were called cappers, or ropers-in, to the gambling hall; they
would steam men up with drink, get them to gambling, and
rob them. Sometimes men would come in from the mines
with their buckskin wallets containing three to four hun-
dred dollars' worth of gold. They would stand around with
perfect strangers and drink free whisky until they became
dazed, then would set down their wallets of gold on a card,
and the next moment their money would be taken up by
the gambler, who would continue dealing his cards as un-
concernedly as he would knock the ashes from his cigar.
The poor, silly miner would turn away with a sickly look,
having not even enough left to get him a change of cloth-
ing. He would go into the street with his old miner's
clothes on, without a dime to pay for his supper or to get
a night's lodging. Sometimes thousands of dollars would
change hands in a few moments. This was in the spring
of 1850, when the strong, with revolver and bowie knife,
were law, when gamblers and blacklegs ran many of the
towns in California.

By this time I imagine that the reader asks what, as a

150 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

missionary, I was doing there. I might answer by quoting
the saying of Christ, that it was not the righteous but the
sinners that He had come to call to repentance. But I will
not offer this excuse, for it was not applicable; and as
open confession is good for the soul, I will make one,
hoping that it may be not only good for my soul, but
be a warning to all who read it. I was twenty-one years
old at the time, and was alone on the street. I did not
know where to go or what to do. My companions had left
on business, and as I started along the street I met with an
old time friend who appeared very much pleased to see me.
His pleasure was reciprocated. He asked me to go in and
have something to drink; I thanked him and said that 1 was
not in the habit of indulging. He said, "Oh, come in, and-
have a little wine for old friendship's sake. There is no
harm in a little wine; come, go in and hear the music, any-
way." With that I turned in with him to the largest
gambling den in the town. The place was packed with
men of almost every nationality. This was the house I
have described.

In the time of great excitement, it must be confessed,
the writer was tempted to lay down a purse of one hundred
dollars, as he had that amount with him. But the next
instant the thought came to him, Would you try to beat a
watchmaker or a gunsmith at his trade? The idea was so
absurd that he then thought how foolish it was to try to
beat these professional gamblers at their own game. Then
the disgrace that attached to the act became so repulsive to
his nature, that he felt ashamed that he ever had been
tempted; and to this day, in a life of seventy-two years, he has
never gambled. He has always felt thankful that that
simple thought came to him at that time and place.

As soon as I could arrange a little business that
detained me at Stockton, I boarded a steamboat called the
Cajytain Sutter, bound for San Francisco, paying twenty-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 151

five dollars for a seventy-five mile ride on the crowded
deck. I paid two dollars for a dinner that consisted of
tough beef, poor bread, and a cup of tea. Such were
"times" in California in 1850.

We landed at the great wharf in San Francisco about
8 o'clock that evening, April 5th. I went up town,
where the streets were crowded, then returned and slept
on the deck of the boat. Next morning, 1 took my trunk
to the Boston House, and leaving it there, sought friends.
I was not long in finding Brother Morris, who directed me
to Brother Cade's, who, together with his good lady,
received me very kindly. He inquired if I had any place
to stop at, and when I told him no, he said, (,Stop and have
dinner with us, then bring your trunk here and stay until you
can do better, if you can do with such fare as we have. We
are old and cannot do very well, but you are welcome to
stay with us as long as my old lady can cook for us."

With thanks, the writer accepted the kind offer, and
from there visited the Saints in San Francisco. I met
Amasa M. Lyman and Charles C. Rich, two of the Twelve
Apostles, also found Addison Pratt, my fellow missionary.
Brother and Sister Cade were not willing that I should
stop over night at any other place, or pay for my wash-
ing. The good old lady said she had money enough to
last her while she lived and pay for the washing of my
clothes. Sister Ivins, who lived near by, sent for my clothes
and had them well laundered. While I stayed there, Sister
Cade presented me with five dollars and a nice silk hand-
kerchief, and the old gentleman gave me a good inkstand.
Sister Patch, who lived near by, gave me five dollars and a
silk vest, and many of the Saints showed us favors.

On April 19th we carried our trunks on board the brig
Frederick, Captain Dunham commanding. The fare was
one hundred dollars each, in the cabin. We returned on
shore and stayed over night, and having received our

152 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

instructions and blessings from Apostles A. M. Lyman and
C. C. Rich, we boarded the vessel at 6 o'clock a. m.,
April 20, and sailed away to the southwest, for the island
of Tahiti, South Pacific Ocean.

CHAPTER XX.

SAILING FOR THE SOUTH PACIFIC— SEVERE ATTACK OF SEASICKNESS-
BECALMED IX THE TROPICS— INTENSE HEAT— MARQUESAS ISLANDS
—CANNIBALS -REACH TAHITI— LAND AT PAPEETE— MEET WITH
FRIENDS— HEARTY WELCOME— PREACHING TO THE NATIVES-
ANIMOSITY OF PROTESTANTS AND CATHOLICS TOWARD THE
MORMONS— JEALOUSY OF FRENCH GOVERNMENT OFFICIALS ON
THE ISLAND-WATCHED BY DETECTIVES— SIX NATIVES BAPTIZED
—LEARNING THE LANGUAGE— RUMORS OF AX INTENTION' TO
EXPEL THE MORMONS— ELDERS B. F. GROUARD AND T. WHITA-
KER ARRESTED— APPEAL FOR AID— THEIR RELEASE AND RETURX
TO THEIR MISSIOXARY LABORS— MEET WITH BROTHER PRATT
AGAIX— INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR— THAT OFFICIAL RE-
FUSES ELDERS PRATT AXD BROWX PERMISSION' TO VISIT ANOTHER
ISLAND-SCARCITY OF FOOD AT HUAUA— EATIXG SEASXAILS AXD
BUGS— STRAXGE DISHES OF FOOD— ALMOST PERISH FROM THIRST
—VISIT TO TIARAR A— ACQUIRING THE LANGUAGE.

LEAVING San Francisco on April 20, 1850, the wind
being fair, we made about eight knots per hour, and
soon lost sight of the land over which the Stars and Stripes
waves. The writer became very seasick, and remained so
for the voyage. He was seven days without an action of
his bowels, and he could not retain any kind of food on his
stomach until we got down in the tropics, when two flying fish
flew aboard ship at night, and the steward cooked them for
the sick man. That was the first thing he had a relish for.
The captain said that if he had ever heard of anybody
dying- of seasickness he would have had no hopes of get-
ting the writer ashore.

The monotony of the voyage was broken only by vast

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. I =$3

fields of seaweed, so dense that it greatly impeded our
progress. Seabirds and fish were very plentiful, and many
times attracted the attention of the voyagers, who caught
several kinds of fish, including dolphin, shark and porpoise.
The fishing afforded some amusing sport, the writer gain-
ing courage enough at one time to crawl out on the jibboom
and catch one fish.

The most trying event of the whole voyage was a
calm in the torrid zone, where we lay for eight days; it
was said that in that time we gained only eight miles.
During that calm all the pitch broiled out of the seams of
the deck, making it leak so that it had to be recalked
and repitched. It became so hot that a man could not
endure his bare feet on it, and if it had not been for
the seamen throwing water on deck it seemed that we
could not have lived through the terrible ordeal. Finally a
gentle breeze came to our relief, and we were wafted in
sight of the Marquesas Islands. We passed so close to
these that the captain expressed a fear that we were in dan-
ger of being attacked by the natives of Nukahuia, the
principal island. He said they were cannibals, and that
small vessels had been captured by the natives coming off
in such numbers, in canoes, as to overpower the crews.
Hence he thought it dangerous to be so close with such
light winds as we had. The wind soon freshened to a gale,
and thus our fears were allayed as we bore down close
along to the northward of the Tuamotu group, sighting
some of them, to Tahiti, on which we landed on May 24,
1850.

Tahiti is the principal island of the Society group; it
is said to be eighty miles in length, varying from two
miles at the isthmus to forty miles in the widest place. The
highest mountain summit is said to be five thousand feet
or more. The capital, Papeete, is in latitude 17 degrees

10

154 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

32 minutes south, longitude 144 degrees 34 minutes west.
The islands were invaded by the French in 1843. In
1847 the war was concluded, but not until much blood
had been spilled and the country laid waste. Then a
French protectorate was established there, and consequently,
at the time we arrived, we found ourselves under the French
flag, and had to apply to Governor Bonard for permission
to go on shore. This was granted, but very reluctantly,
and we paid the secretary three francs for each of us.

Once on shore, we found Brother Pratt's old friends,
Hamatua and Pohe, who treated us very kindly and on
May 25th got our baggage from the vessel, then took us
in their boat around the northeast of the island to their
home in a little village called Huaua, where we were met
by their families and six or seven Church members. It
seemed to be impossible for them to rejoice any more than
they did, and under the circumstances we could not be
treated with greater kindness. They provided us with the
best the land produced, making us cordially welcome.

Brother Pratt preached to them, while I was deaf and
dumb, so far as the spoken language was concerned; but
the actions of the natives spoke louder than words. When
it came to meal time, they spread before us roast pig, and
fish, taro, fais, bananas, cocoanuts, sweet-potatoes, popoie,
oranges, pine and vee apples, doavas, bread fruit, etc. We
had appetites equal to the occasion, and felt no remorse for
not having done justice to the table, or to the chest which
was a substitute for a table.

We soon learned that the Protestant ministers and
Catholic priest were very much prejudiced against us, and
were doing all they could to prevent the people receiving
us into their houses, advising them not to hold any conver-
sation with us, or attend our meetings. We also learned
that the government officials were jealous of Mormon in-
fluence, and that a watch was kept over us, in other words,

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 55

the natives said that detectives were on our track, and that
a ship of war had been sent to Tubuoi for Elders B. F.
Grouard and T. Whitaker, who were on that island as
Mormon missionaries, and who had been accused of speak-
ing against the government. It may be imagined, there-
fore, that in all respects our stay was not so pleasant as
otherwise it might have been.

As it was, however, we made the best of the situation.
Brother Pratt preached and talked much of the time to a
few who gathered around, and he soon baptized six per-
sons. I studied the language by committing a few words
to memory, then forming them into sentences, and having
them corrected by the natives. Then, when I heard one
tell another what to do, I watched what was done. I col-
lected many sentences, and walked the beach till I com-
mitted them to memory. At first it seemed a very difficult
task to catch the sounds, but in a short time I could begin
to understand, and then to talk. For a change I would rest
myself from studying the language by practicing reading
and writing, having provided myself with copybooks and
other necessary material before leaving San Francisco.

The home we had been made so welcome to was situ-
ated a few rods from the beach, and between two little
streams of water that came tumbling down from the steep
precipices in the background into a small valley, which was
heavily timbered. There were some six or seven small
huts or dwellings and tweniy-five or thirty people all told.
No business was carried on further than gathering the fruit
that grew, uncultivated, in abundance for the needs of the
population; and with little effort they caught fish as they
cared to consume it. As most of the people of the village
were quiet and peaceable, it will be understood why we
called the place our lonely retreat, or lonely Huaua. We
visited other villages occasionally, and tried to interest the
inhabitants and preach to them, but in vain. They would

156 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

give us food, and sometimes offered to keep us over night,
but as a rule they were very cold and indifferent towards us.

Under the circumstances the best we could do was to
study the language and prepare ourselves for future useful-
ness as the way might open. Meanwhile, many rumors
were in circulation about the French driving the Mormons
out of the country; and the Protestant ministers and Cath-
olic priest seemed to spare no pains to spread all the slan-
derous stories they ever had heard about the Mormons. So
many rumors were in circulation that we did not know
what to believe, so we remained in suspense till July 17,
when, to our surprise, Brother Grouard came in through a
heavy rain and told us that he and Brother Whitaker had
been brought from Tubuoi, where they had been building
a small schooner for the use of the mission. He said they
had been arrested on the charge of speaking against the
French government. They had landed that morning from
a ship of war, and he had got permission to come and see
us, but had to. return that evening so as to be at the trial
next morning. He had left a horse five miles back, because
the road was so rough that he could cover the distance on
foot quicker than on horseback, and had no time to lose.
He greatly desired that Brother Pratt and I should be at
his trial. Said he, "I am innocent, but I do not know what
thev will prove, and we want you to stand by us." So it
was agreed that Brother Hamatua and I should go on foot
early next morning, and Brothers Pratt and Pohe would
come as soon as the wind quieted down, as it was then too
high to venture out in the boat.

Brother Hamatua and I set out early in the morning,
in a heavy rain, which continued to pour down till we
reached Papeete, at 11 o'clock, when we met Brother
Grouard coming from his trial, he having been discharged.
He said Brother Whitaker would also be acquitted,
although the prejudice against them was very strong.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 57

Brothers Grouard and Whitaker thought the govern-
ment would board and lodge them at least till it got ready
to return them home again, but in this they were mistaken,
so they and I did the best we could for ourselves. We
soon learned that the steamship Sarien would leave for
Tubuoi in three or four days, and the brethren would be
taken back on that. Brother Grouard sought the permis-
sion of the governor for Brother Pratt and me to go on the
Sarien with him. This was refused on the ground that
two Mormon missionaries were enough on that island.
The governor uid not wish any more to go until he knew
more about them.

The wind kept so high that Brother Pratt did not
reach Papeete until Brothers Grouard and Whitaker had
been acquitted and had gone. I had started home, and
was overhauled by Brother Grouard, who said something
had broken on the ship and they had to stop to repair it;
that he could not remain to see Brother Pratt, but would
stay with me as long as he could. He had only a few
moments to stop, so I proceeded about six miles, when I
learned that Brother Pratt was on the way by boat. Upon
obtaining this information I went back to the house
where we had stayed two or three nights, finding the
place barren and uninviting. Everything was very lonely
with no friends there. I feared that I would be alone that
night, but at last Brother Pratt came. The boat had
stopped, with our bedding and provisions, three or four miles
up the coast. Although the night was very dark, and the
road lay through the woods and across creeks, Brother
Pratt thought we had better try to make the boat for the
night, as we had to give up going to Tubuoi.

This course was followed, and we found our -friends
and bedding all right. Not being satisfied, however, with
the situation, we went back to Papeete next morning, to
see the governor ourselves. When we met him, Brother

158 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Pratt asked the reason why we could not be free to go
where we chose. He replied that there had been some
trouble with Mr. Grouard, and as it was his business to
look after government affairs, he wished to inquire into the
matter further before permitting more American mission-
aries to go there. Said he: "While I do not wish to
interfere with religion, it is my duty to keep peace, and if
you will call again in a month or six weeks, I will let you
know more about it."

At this we went to the boat, and with our friends
returned to lonely Huaua. Indeed, if it had not been for
our friends Hamatua and Pohe and their families, our stay
at the place for some time after this would have been very
uncomfortable. Food had become very scarce, so that we
had to eat seasnails, and bugs that played on the surface of
salt water pools. These bugs were about the size of the
end of a man's thumb; in form and action they very much
resembled the little black bugs found along the edges of
our fresh water streams, and called by some people mellow
bugs. I submit that a dish of these, without pepper or
salt, was a strange sight to present to a white man — their
legs sticking out in all directions; yet, when a man has
gone long enough without food, they become quite tempt-
ing, and he is not very particular about the legs, either.

We also had other strange dishes set before us. When
other food failed, the natives would go to the mouths of
small fresh water streams, and dig in the sands, just where
the high tide flowed, and at a depth of twelve to eighteen
inches they would find a something that resembled young
snakes more than anything else I can compare them to.
They were from six to ten inches in length, had a snake's
mouth, and a spinal column, or we should have called them
worms; they were without fins, or we might have called
them eels. The natives had a name for them, but I have
forgotten it. When they were boiled in salt water — put a

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 55

quart or two into a pot of cold seawater, then hang them
over the fire and see them squirm a few moments — they
were ready for the missionary's meal, taken without pepper
or salt. When cooked, a person seizes one by the head
and extracts it from the dish, or the banana leaf, as the case
may be. He retains the head between his thumb and
forefinger, then takes hold of the body with his teeth,
draws it through these, and thus strips off the flesh in his
mouth. He then lays down the head and backbone, and
repeats the operation until he has completed his repast.

Just a moment, my friendly reader; we have another
dish for you on the Society Islands, that you may enjoy
better. It is a peculiar kind of fish, very rare indeed, for
they seldom appear more than once or twice in a year:
then they are present by myriads. They come up out of
the sea into the fresh water streams so thickly that they
can be dipped up with a frying-pan or bucket. Sometimes
the natives dip them up with an open bucket, or with a
sack having a hoop in the mouth, thus taking them by
bushels. These fish are of a dark color, and from half an
inch to an inch and a quarter long. When boiled they look
like boiled rice, and a man can eat about as many of them as
he can grains of that vegetable. When they are eaten
with the cream of the cocoanut they are quite palatable.
This dish is not very common, as I remember seeing it in
only three or four places.

Besides the dish named, we had a small shellfish called
maava. It lives in a shell so much like a snail's that we
called it a seasnail. It was cooked in the shell, and was
quite acceptable for a change in hard times. We also had
a large shellfish called pahua; again, we had a jelly-fish
which, when taken and laid in a dish, very much resem-
bled the white of an egg', it had neither scales nor bones,
and was eaten raw, without pepper or salt.

Still another course of food which we had was wild

l6o LIFE OF A PIONEER.

boar from the mountains. I can only say that the flesh is
hard and tough. Brother Pratt shot a boar with his shot-
gun. This pleased the natives very much. I also gave
chase to one which led me so far away from water that I
felt I should die of thirst and heat. On my descent return-
ing, I came to a lone cocoanut tree that had plenty of nuts
on. I tried in vain to climb the tree; then I clubbed the
nuts that were only forty feet or so up, but finding that it
was impossible to obtain drink in that way, I sat down in
the shade in despair, and felt for a moment that I could not
live to reach water. At last my nerves became somewhat
steadied, and I took aim at the stem of a nut, it being not
so thick as my little finger. The bullet cut one stem en-
tirely away and passed through another close to the nut.
Thus two cocoanuts dropped, and hopes of life sprung up
anew, only to perish, for I found it impossible to open the
nuts. After a brief rest, I started down the mountain
again, and succeeded in reaching a cocoanut grove where
an old man was throwing down nuts. I told him of my
suffering and he hastened down, opened a nut, and gave
me a drink that was most refreshing. May he receive a
prophet's reward, for he gave me drink when it seemed
that life was fast ebbing away. The welcome draught re-
freshed me so that I gained the village early, being wiser
for the experience of following wild boars in the mountains
away from water. Although the temptation came to me
several times afterward, I never chased a wild boar again;
but at one time I killed one which appeared to be about
two years old, without a chase. This, and hunting ducks
and fishing a little, greatly relieved the monotony of our
involuntary stay.

For a change from our living at Huaua, I went to visit
Pohe, nephew of my old friend Hamatua, who lived at
Tiara, three miles up the coast, making my home with him.
I visited among the people there, and by hearing none but

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. l6l

the Tahitian language spoken, I progressed very fast
therein; indeed my progress astonished the natives at
Tiara, who said, "The Lord helps the Mormon mission-
aries learn our language, for in three months they speak it
better than other foreigners do in five years."

CHAPTER XXI.

•OFFER OF TRANSPORTATION TO THE ISLAND OF TUBUOI— APPLY TO THE
GOVERNOR FOR PERMISSION TO GO— TROOPS ON PARADE— SUITE
OF QUEEN POMERE— CALL ON THE GOVERNOR— CONVERSATION IN
THREE LANGUAGES— DIRECTED TO COME AGAIN NEXT DAY— PUT
OFF BY THE GOVERNOR— LATTER REFUSES THE PERMISSION
ASKED— HIS PREJUDICE AGAINST THE MORMONS— DEMANDS A
STATEMENT OF THEIR DOCTRINES— NOT REQUIRED OF OTHER
DENOMINATIONS— WRITER'S INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR-
RETURN TO HUAUA— OTHER ELDERS REQUESTED TO ASSEMBLE
THERE -BITTERNESS OF PROTESTANT MINISTERS— NATIVES COM-
MENT ON MORMONS LEARNING THEIR LANGUAGE QUICKLY.

DURING my stay at Tiara, news came to Brother
Pratt that a schooner from Lurutu was at Papeete,
and that the captain had proffered to take us to Tubuoi
free of charge. On receiving this message I returned at
once to Huaua. Brother Pratt requested me to visit Gov-
ernor Bonard, and see if we could get permission to make
the trip, it being near the time when we were to call on
him again. It was necessary for us to give him eight days'
notice of our coming, and as the vessel was to sail in ten
days, there was no time to lose.

On August 9th I set out, two native boys accompanying
me. When we reached Hapape, we saw there about four
hundred soldiers. Then wre met Governor Bonard and
staff, and after them saw Queen Pomere and suite, all in
their military dress. It was difficult to tell which made the

162 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

finest appearance. On our arrival in Papeete we were told
that the troops had gone out on dress parade and review,
preparatory to sailing to the island of Huhine, to settle
some trouble between the natives of that island and some
shipwrecked foreigners. It was late when we reached
Papeete, and we went to the house of a native named Didi,
staying over night; he was very kind to us. I also met
with the owner of the Lurutu vessel, who told me he would
take us to Tubuoi free of charge, if we wished to go. He
seemed very friendly toward us.

The next day, August ioth, I went to see the gov-
ernor. I met a sentinel at the gate, who ordered me to
halt. Then he called for the officer of the day, who told
me to wait till he gave notice to the governor. The officer
went in, and soon returned and beckoned me forward. I
advanced past a second sentinel, when the officer ushered
me into the presence of his excellency, who rose from his
seat and met me. When we had shaken hands, he very
politely bade me to be seated, and then said pleasantly:
"Do you speak English?" This question being answered
in the affirmative, he said, "Me speak lete." Then we
entered upon a conversation. As I understood a little
French, and both of us could speak a limited amount of
Tahitian, we made a jargon of one-third English, one-third
French, and one-third Tahitian. Then we laughed heartily
at each other because of our novel attempts in the three
languages. The governor invited me to call next morning,
when his French captain, who could speak English, would
be there. Then, with French politeness, he bowed me out
and off.

Next morning I went, and met the governor going to
church. He said he had forgotten it was Sunday, so I
would have to wait an hour or two, and come again.
This I did, being stopped by the sentinel as before, going
through all the ceremonies of the previous visit, and being

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF [AMES S. BROWN. 163

ushered into the same room. I met the English-speaking
captain, to whom I made my business known. Said he,
"The governor declines to grant your request." I was not
disappointed, for I was well satisfied from what I had
learned the day before that that would be the result, but as
the talk had not been very conclusive, I had called for a
clearer understanding, hoping the governor might yield
when he understood us better. In this I was mistaken,
however, as it seemed the governor was thoroughly filled
with prejudice against even the name of Mormon Elder.
I asked Governor Bonard his reasons for detaining us
where we were. He said that in the first place he had no
proof that we were good men, and he wished to know what
we would preach, and what our doctrines and faith were.
I told him that we preached the Gospel which Jesus Christ
and His Apostles preached, and could produce our creden-
tials, if he desired to see them. He said no, he did not
wish that of us; neither did he wish to interfere with relig-
ious matters, but it was for peace in the country that he
washed us to stop there; for if we and everybody who
desired it were allowed to set forth new doctrines among
the people, and get them divided among themselves, they
would be fighting, and it was his place to keep the peace.
Said he, "Before you go from this island, I wish to know
more about your doctrine." I told him that was what we
wished him and every good man to know, and to embrace
it if he would. Then he said that he desired the Mormon
Elders to get together, and make a declaration of what
they would preach and how far they would obey the laws.
I replied that that was just what we wished to do, but if he
refused us the privilege of going to Tubuoi we did not
know when we could get together. Said he, "You had
better write to your friends at Tubuoi, and have them come
here. Your faces are strange to me, and you are from a
foreign country. We have no proof that you are good men.

164 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

The doctrine you preach is new to me and if you will
gather all your white brethren, and make a declaration of
the doctrine you preach, and how far vou will obey the
laws of the land, signing your names to it, then, if I accept
of it as being good doctrine, you will have liberty to go
anywhere you wish, and have our protection." My answer
was that we had no objection to acquainting him with our
doctrine. I asked him if he made the same requirement of
other denominations that he did of us, and received the
information that he did not. Upon this, I inquired why he
made it of us, and he stated that there had been some diffi-
culty already with B. F. Grouard. "Well," said I, "did you
not acquit Grouard?" "Yes," he said, "but we would like
to look further into the matter, and if possible prevent
further trouble." They had lost two good seamen going
after Grouard, and one fell overboard on the return trip,
but they succeeded in rescuing him.

When I found that I could not prevail on the governor
to allow us our liberty, I left and visited the captain of the
Lurutu. With him 1 boarded his novel vessel. It was of
very frail construction; all the stays and braces were made
by hand from the bark of a tree called by the natives burson,
and resembling somewhat the basswood of the Eastern and
Middle States. The captain said he sailed by the sun by
day, and at night by the moon and stars, but in cloudy
weather by instinct, or guess. I asked if they did not get
lost sometimes; he said no, they were well acquainted with
the sea. They had been three years in building the schooner.
It would carry about forty tons. The crew conveyed the
products of their island three hundred and sixty miles to
Tahiti principally, but occasionally to other islands. To
me the vessel appeared a frail craft, and wholly without
comforts, for white men at least.

Having satisfied my curiosity about the strange craft,
I returned to Huaua on August 11, and reported results to

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 165

President Pratt, who wrote immediately to the different
Elders to come and sign with us the document the gover-
nor had suggested. The mails were so irregular and
uncertain that we had not the remotest idea when our
release would come, for if ever our letters were received
by the Elders, it might be three or even six months before
they could get a passage to Tahiti. Thus the reader can
see that we were doomed to tarry almost as prisoners in
the little valley of Huaua, which was only about eighty
rods wide by one hundred and fifty in length, being
bounded on the south by high, steep mountains, that were
almost impossible to cross, at least by a white man not
accustomed to climbing them; and on the northeast the
open sea rolled and surged upon the rocks and the sandy
beach, to within fifteen rods of where we slept, our heads
being not more than ten feet above high water mark. This
was not all; for the Protestant ministers were very bitter
against us, and so prejudiced that it was useless for us to
try to enlighten them in regard to ourselves or oar faith.
They seemed to spare no pains in spreading their venom
among the people, and in every way possible intimidated
the natives so that our friends were but few, though our
enemies had no power over them. With the aid of a book,
however, we could improve in the language, and did so to
the extent that when we had been there five months the
natives who were not of us said, "Surely the Lord is with
the Mormons, for in five months they speak our language
better than other foreigners do in five years. No one can
learn our language like the Mormon Elders unless the Lord
helps them." Thus encouraged, we bore our imprison-
ment the best we could.

l66 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

CHAPTER XXII.

VISIT TO PAPEETE— DUCK -HUNTING TRIP— A PECULIAR WOMAN— ALONG
A PERILOUS PATH— AX OPINION OF ENGLISH MINISTERS— ARRIVAL
OF ELDER S. A. DUNN— LEARN OF MORE MISSIONARIES ARRIVING
AT TUBUOI— NEWS FROM MY FATHER AND OTHERS— LETTERS
FROM THE FIRST PRESIDENCY AND SOME OF THE APOSTLES-
WRITTEN STATEMENT SENT TO THE GOVERNOR OF TAHITI-
VISIT THE GOVERNOR— OUR STATEMENT REJECTED— LIST OF
QUESTIONS AND STATEMENT PRESENTED BY THE GOVERNOR-
REPLY" OF ELDER A. PRATT— OBJECTIONS BY" THE GOVERNOR-
PERMISSION GIVEN US TO TRAVEL AND PREACH ON THE ISLANDS

ON September 5th, 1850, I met with the opportunity of
going to Papeete in a boat that was passing. My
friends took me out in a canoe to the larger vessel. I was
very seasick. The wind was so high that in two hours we
were in Taunoa, where we stayed over night. On the 6th
we got to Papeete, where I received a letter from B. F.
Grouard. I answered it the same day. We found friends
who treated us very kindly; then returned to our lonely
retreat, traveling through a heavy rainstorm all the way.
We continued our studies without anything to vary
the monotony until October 2nd, when President Pratt
and Hamatua, and three children from the latter's fam-
ily, took their blankets and went into the mountains for
a change, while I made a visit to my friend Pohe to get my
books, which had been left with him. When I returned I
continued my studies alone until Brother Pratt and party came
back; then, on September 15th, I went to Papeno, duck-
hunting. As Sister Hamatua had some relatives there, she
and her stepdaughter accompanied me, thinking that my
stay would be made more pleasant. Sister Hamatua was
between fifty and sixty years of age, was well versed in

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 167

the scriptures, and as true to her religion as anyone I have
ever met. She had never had any children of her own,
and yet she had taken three young babes, from their birth,
and nursed them at her own breast, and gave them suck
and reared them. I think one mother had died at her
child's birth, and with another child the young mother had
cast it away to die, as it was illegitimate, and she denied its
being her child. The third had been promised to Sister
Hamatua before its birth, and at that time she claimed it
and took it home the same hour. I saw the children, and
the natives bore witness to the truth of the narrative here
given. The youngest child was princess of Tubuoi, her
name was Aura, and at the time I write of she was a bright
girl of eight years.

We went on our journey to Papeno, passing down
along the cliffs of rock and precipitous and deep, dark
caverns that were almost impassable. The shrieking and
howling of the wind as it was forced up through the crev-
ices in the rocks by the surging waves from the open sea,
combined with the dangers of the route, had such an effect
on my nerves that I have never desired a repetition of the
hazardous trip, though I traveled many times on the
Brom (state road), parallel with the perilous path. I had
no desire to pass over or even to think of the jeopardy we
were in on that terrible trail. Suffice it to say, that we
reached our journey's end in safety, and stayed with the
governor of the village, who treated us very kindly. We
returned next day, the 16th of September. On our way
we saw a ship heading for Papeete. This gave us hope
that we would get some news from the outer world.

September 22nd, Pipitila and I started for Papeete,
thinking we would meet with the Elders, or at least get
some word from them. All that we could learn was that
they were expected in Tubuoi instead of in Tahiti. We
stayed in Taunaa, where we met with friends who treated

l68 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

us well. One old man said that he had become tired of
the English ministers, for they preached one thing and did
the opposite. Said he, "I have been a fool that has no
eyes all my life. I have belonged to the Protestant church
ever since it has been here, and still I am like a fool, for I
am black or dark in my heart. I have tried ever since the
missionaries came to get light. They came and went back
and died, and still I am a fool, and darkness fills my soul, for
I never learned before that Christ was baptized. You have
given me the first light that I have ever had on the Gospel."
We returned to our home on September 25th and found
all well. On October 3rd friends from Tiara came to visit
us, and for a time broke the monotony of our island-prison
life.

Nothing out of the usual happened till November 6th,
when I was ready to start on a trip of inquiry. A little
girl came in and said there was an old white man out at the
creek, and that he was asking for Brother Pratt. In a few
minutes Brother S. A. Dunn came in. and to our great sur-
prise and joy he brought word that Brother Pratt's family
and a company of Elders had arrived at Tubuoi, all well.
He had letters for us, too. I received one from my father
— the first word that I had had since 1847. I also had a
letter from my old friend and comrade, Jonathan C. Holmes,
stating that my Uncle Alexander Stephens had been
wounded in a battle with the Ute Indians in Utah County,
but that he was getting around again very well.

Brother Pratt received letters from the First Presidency
of the Church, also from Apostles Amasa M. Lyman and
Charles C. Rich, all bringing good news and words of
encouragement to us. Elder Dunn told us that he had
called on Governor Bonard, who seemed very pleasant and
who told him that as soon as we would get together and
make a statement of what we would preach, and signed
the same, we would have liberty to go where we chose,

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 69

and should have the protection of the French govern-
ment.

November 8th we wrote as follows to the governor:

"Whereas, we, the undersigned, have been requested
by his excellency, Governor Bonard, of Tahiti, to make a
statement of the intentions of our mission to the Society
Islands, in compliance therewith we proceed to give the
following:

"ist. To preach the everlasting Gospel, which brings
life and salvation to the children of men. 'For I am not
ashamed of the Gospel of Christ, for it is the power of God
unto salvation to every one that believeth, to the Jew first,
and also to the Greek.' — (Romans i : 16.)

"2nd. To teach the people by precept and by example
the habits of virtue and industry, which are so desirable to
the happiness and prosperity of civilized life.

"3rd. To observe and keep the laws of every land
wherein we dwell, so far as it is required of preachers of
the Gospel in Christian countries; and to teach and admon-
ish the people to observe and keep the laws of the land.

"Huaua, Tahiti, November 8, 1850.

"[Signed] Addison Pratt,

"Simeon A. Dunn,
"James S. Brown."

We started on November 10th to see the governor
and present to him the foregoing. Traveling on foot, we
went to Papeno, where we were very kindly received by
the governor, at whose house we stopped over night.
Many of his friends called to see and greet us. On the
nth we proceeded to Papeete, arriving therein time to
pass the guard and be ushered into the governor's office,
where we were received very coldly. The governor was
engaged talking with two officers. We stood until ob-
served, from a side room, by a French officer, who invited
us (speaking in English) to come in and be seated; he then

11

I70 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

called an interpreter. When the latter came he looked
over the article that we had presented, and rejected it.
Then he produced one which the governor had had drawn
up, and which he read as follows:

"On my arrival at Tahiti, two or three persons styled
Mormon missionaries were residing either at Tubuoi or at
the Pamutus. As they were already there, I thought it
proper to allow them to remain, considering the small num-
ber of persons forming the mission, upon conditions, how-
ever, that they attended strictly to the laws which govern
the lands of the protectorate, not interfering in any way
with politics or civil matters, but solely religious, with
which I have no intention whatever to interfere.

"Now that a large number of persons attached to the
Mormon mission request permission to reside at the Society
Islands, tending to create a sort of church government em-
bracing all the lands of the protectorate of France, to create,
it might be said, a new existence in the population of the
islands, it is now my duty to interfere.

"I requested to be informed as to what are the means
of the Mormons for their living.

"ist. From whence the society of Mormon mission-
aries derive the power of forming themselves into a body?

"2nd. What are the forms of government and the
discipline which govern this society?

"3rd. What guarantee of morality and good conduct
do they require from members appointed as missionaries
for the foreigners?

"4th. What guarantee do they require before con-
ferring grades and offices on natives?

"5th. What duty do they require either from foreign-
ers or from native members, not including religious dogmas,
with which I shall not interfere?

"6th. What number of religious services do they hold
weekly or monthly?

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 171

"7th. Finally, what morals do the Mormons preach?

"These questions put, and satisfactorily answered.
This is what it is my duty to make known to the Mormon
missionaries: As men, they, as all foreigners, are permitted
to reside in the islands of the protectorate, and have a right
to French protection by conforming themselves to the laws
of the country; as missionaries, with an open pulpit which
might consequently give them great influence over the
population, and create, as it were, a new power, it is my
duty to impose conditions that they guarantee, consequently:

"1st. The Mormon missionaries shall bind themselves to
preach their religion without interfering in any way or
under any pretext with politics or civil matters.

"2nd. They shall withhold from speaking from the
pulpit against the religion established in the islands of the
protectorate, or the laws and the acts emanating from the
authorities.

"3rd. They shall not exact from the inhabitants of
the islands of the protectorate any tax, either in money,
labor, provisions or material.

"4th. They shall not inflict penalties upon any one,
either in money, labor, provisions, or material, for failing
to comply with the rules of the religion they preach.

"5th. They cannot acquire land in the name of the
society, without the approbation of the protectorate govern-
ment.

"6th. No person can be allowed to unite himself with
them, as a Mormon missionary, in the Society Islands,
before having signed that he adheres to the present declara-
tion, and whenever proof might be made of guilt of an
infringement of these articles, it would occasion his exclu-
sion from the islands of the protectorate.

"The persons calling themselves Mormon missionaries,
and who sent a delegate to me whom I could not recognize

172 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

officially, are hereby informed that before I can authorize
them as a society they must reply categorically to the ques-
tions which I have put to them; that until then their resi-
dence is illegal, and I refuse, as it is my duty to do, all
authorization to the Mormon missionaries to take up their
residence. Moreover, it is my duty to inform them that
when they are constituted a society no meetings, except on
days regularly known as days of prayer and preaching,
can be held without the permission of the authorities, on
pain of being prosecuted according to law."

When this long and proscriptive roll had been read
and strongly emphasized, we were handed a copy, and the
interpreter said we could make such answers as we saw
fit. At this we went to a quiet place, and on November
1 2th President Pratt wrote out the following reply:

"As it has been requested by his excellency, the
governor of Tahiti, to give answer to certain questions that
he has propounded to us, we herein comply:

"1st. First, as it is declared in the New Testament of
our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ, that they that preach the
Gospel shall live off the Gospel, we are sent forth by the
authority of the Church to which we belong with expecta-
tion that those to whom we preach will contribute to our
necessities, so far as life and health are concerned, of their
own free will. Second, we have no authority from those
who sent us to the islands to form ourselves into a body
compact, either civil or religious, nor have we any intention
of so doing. Third, the reason of our going to Tubuoi is
this: I, Addison Pratt, arrived at Tubuoi in the year 1844,
in the capacity of a missionary of the Gospel of Jesus
Christ. I remained there in that capacity about nineteen
months, and when I was about to leave there I was invited,
by the authorities of the island then in power, to return to
them with my family, and reside with them as their
preacher. They wished also to be instructed in the arts

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 73

and sciences of civilized life. After I left Tubuoi, I went
to Anaa, to assist Mr. Grouard in his missionary labors,
having been sent for by request of the people living there. I
remained at Anaa about nine months, and while there a
general conference was held, by the people we had bap-
tized, on the 6th of October, 1846. At that meeting a
request was made by the people of whom Aniipa was
head, to send by me to our Church, in North America, for
more missionaries to assist Mr. Grouard and myself, as the
Gospel had spread in several islands of that group. The
company that has arrived at Tubuoi are the missionaries
who have been sent for, as I returned to North America
in the year 1847 and laid the minutes of the conference
held at Anaa, and the request of the people of Tubuoi,
before the Church. A part of that company now at
Tubuoi are preachers of the Gospel, and a part of them are
mechanics and husbandmen; they have brought with them
tools and seeds for carrying out the object for which they
were sent.

''2nd. The forms of government by which the society
is governed are those set forth by Jesus Christ and His
Apostles, as laid down in the New Testament, to which we
have referred.

"3rd. We request them to be strictly virtuous in every
sense of the word, observing and keeping the laws of the
land wherein they dwell, and teaching the people so to do.

"4th. We request of them all that is contained in the
articles.

"5th. We request of them what is contained in the
third article and nothing more.

•'6th. We have no stated times for religious services
except upon the Sabbath; we hold semi-annual conferences.
Besides these, we are subject to the will of the people.

"7th. We preach to and admonish the people to keep

174 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

all the commandments of God, and strictly obey the laws
of the land wherein they dwell."

Our answer was signed by Addison Pratt, Simeon A.
Dunn and James S. Brown, and was presented to his excel-
lency, who objected to the first statement, about our means
of support. He said he wished men to get a living in a
more honorable way than that. The second paragraph he
did not like. He seemed to dislike scripture references.
We told him we had been reared to work, that we still ex-
pected to labor for our living, and that a part of our people
had come to work and a part to preach the Gospel.

After he had interrogated us to his satisfaction, and
placed about us all the restrictions that seemed possible,
the governor told us that if we would go with Mr. Dugard,
one of his officers, he would give us permits to reside
among the islands of the protectorate, after we had signed
the articles he presented to us.

As we left the governor's presence, Mr. Dugard told
us that, as it was getting rather late', we had better call at
his office the next morning at 8 o'clock, and he would at-
tend to our case. We complied with his suggestion but
did not find him at home. The lady of the house told us to
call at 2 o'clock and he would be there. In a short time
we met the interpreter who advised us to call at n o'clock,
which we did, finding the official ready to wait on us, as we
supposed; but instead, he directed us to go to a certain
notary public, who would give us our permits. We did as
intructed and obtained the documents, paying three francs
each. Thus we were permitted to go as ministers of the
Gospel among the islands of the French protectorate.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 175

CHAPTER XXIII.

RETURN TO HIJAUA— HEAVY RAINSTORMS— REFUSAL OF AN OFFER TO
BE CARRIED OVER A STREAM— PERILOUS SWIMMING FEAT— EPI-
SODE WITH A WILD BOAR— START ON A TRIP AROUND THE ISLAND
—OBTAIN A LOAF OF BREAD— PEOPLE NOT DESIROUS OF LISTEN-
ING TO THE MORMON ELDERS-CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES— REPU-
TATION OF PROTESTANT CLERGY ON TAHITI— WITH THE CHIEF
MAGISTRATE OF UAIRAI— ACROSS A SMALL BAY IN A CANOE-
FRENCH GARRISON AT THE ISTHMUS— WITH MY FRIEND POHE—
REVIEW OF A HARD JOURNEY— AGAIN AT HUAUA.

AS there were no vessels bound for where we wished
to go at this time, on November 13th we started on
our return from Papeete to Huaua, but it rained so hard
that we had to seek shelter after traveling six miles. We
came to a creek about two rods across, and began to take
off our shoes preparatory to wading it. Just then a
sprightly little woman came along and told us she would
carry us across on her back. She said, "There are little
sharp shells and rocks that will cut your feet, and they will
not hurt mine, for I am used to them. My feet are tough,
but you are not used to going barefoot like us, and your
feet are tender. I will gladly carry you over free rather
than see you cut your feet." She plead with such earnest-
ness and so innocently that it became almost a temptation,
especially as she would have considered it a great honor
to carry the servants of God, as she was pleased to call us.
Said she, "You need not be afraid that I will fall down with
you; I can carry you with ease." When her very kind
offer was declined, she seemed very much disappointed.
We tried to console her by telling her how greatly we
appreciated her kindness, then proceeded on our way. but

176 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

owing to the heavy rain soon called at a native's house,
where we were pleasantly entertained. He spread the best
food he had. This was put on the bed. He also asked us
to take seats on the bed, offering as an excuse, "The fleas
are so bad we have to get up there to be out of the way, or
they will get in the food."

We accepted the situation with thanks, and felt that
we were right royally treated. The people from around
flocked in until the house was so thoroughly packed with
humanity that the fleas had a fine opportunity to gorge-
themselves. The people did not seem to be much annoyed
by them, but talked and sang till 11 o'clock, when we
turned in for the remainder of the night, concluding that
the fleas had been so feasted that they were willing to let
us slumber in peace, which we did.

November 14th we resumed our journey, only to be
driven in by the rain, but not until we were thoroughly
drenched. Having met with our old and well tried friend,
Hamatua, when the storm subsided we continued our jour-
ney to Papeno. A call was made on the governor of that
district, who told us that the river was so swollen that it
was not safe for white men to attempt to cross. He said
the natives could go over safely, but we could not do so,
and told the party they were welcome to stay with him all
night. The writer thought that if a native could cross the
river he could, so he prepared for the attempt. The stream
was about fifteen rods wide. The governor, himself a very
large and powerful man, said, "If you go I will go with and
assist you, for you cannot cross there alone. Two natives
have been swept down to the sea and drowned. If I go
with you we can cross safely, but I am afraid to have you
go alone." At that both of us got ready to cross. He
took hold of my right arm close to the shoulder. We
waded in till the swift current took our feet from under us,
then we swam with all our power, and finally gained the

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 77

opposite shore by swimming three times the width of the
river. The governor could have turned and swam back
again without any trouble, but I had quite enough to satisfy
my conceit, and ever since have been willing to acknowl-
edge that a native can beat me in the water.

Brothers Pratt and Dunn were well satisfied to wait
for the water to fall before they tried to cross, and by late
in the evening the stream was down so that they came over
with comparative ease. We stayed with some very good
friends, and on the 15th of November reached.home. All
were well. Things went on as usual until the 28th, when
the natives came running and said a wild hog had come
down from the mountains and was at the next door neigh-
bor's, with his tame hogs. The people wished us to come
with bubus (guns) and shoot him. On a previous occasion,
before I could understand the natives, a wild hog had come
down and was with the hogs of our host. There was
great excitement among the natives, so Brother Pratt
hastened and got his shotgun, and went out and killed the
hog. He told me to hold on with my gun, and would not
Jet me know what the excitement was until it was over.
Now, the natives shouted that Prita's (Pratt's) gun was the
strong one, that he was the brave hunter and knew how to
shoot, but that my weapon was too small a bore — -it could
not kill if I hit the hog. But on this occasion I outdis-
tanced the old gentleman with my small-bore rifle. I shot
the hog just behind the shoulder; it ran a few jumps and fell
in the thick brake. As the animal was out of sight, and
the natives could not see any evidence of its having been
hit, they blamed me for not letting Brother Pratt get there
first, saying he would have killed the hog and we would
have had something to eat. Brother Pratt good naturedly
joined in with them; they looked disappointed, and tried to
laugh me to shame, but in the height of their ridiculing me
a lad who had followed the track a rod or two into the

178 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

brake shrieked out in terror: "Here is the hog, dead! I
was near stepping on him before I saw him!" The laugh
was turned.

The hog was soon dressed, and the natives had to ex-
amine my gun. They concluded that both Brother Pratt
and I were good gunners, and had good weapons. The
hog was a boar, a year and a half old or more, and if it had
been fat would have dressed two hundred pounds. All
were well pleased for it was a time of scarcity of food.

On December 2nd Brother Dunn and I started to go
around Tahiti on foot, passing by Papeete. Hametua
Vaheni, John Layton's wife, and the two small girls of the
house, went with us to Papeete. We stayed at Faripo the
first night, with Noiini, who was very kind to us. Next
morning we proceeded on our way to Hapape, where we
stopped at the house of Teahi, a relative of Hametua
Vaheni. There we took breakfast, and continued our
journey to Taunoa. where we remained over night with
Tamari. There we left our baggage while we went on to
Papeete to see what news we could get. We spent most
of the day to no purpose, returning to where we had
stayed the night before.

Next morning, the 4th, we started without breakfast.
On the way we purchased a loaf of bread — a rare treat to
us, as we had not even seen bread for several days. We
ate it as we walked along, stopping at a small brook to get
a drink. At Wamau, a man invited us into his house. As
it had begun to rain we accepted his kind offer with thank-
fulness. Upon entering the house we were requested to take
a seat upon the bed. Some very fine oranges were set be-
fore us, and soon the house was filled with young people
mostly, who seemed very desirous of learning who we were,
where we were from, and what our business was. We
told them, and they appeared to be very much disappointed.
We soon found that tney had no use for us, so we went on

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF |AMES S. BROWN. 1 79

our way and soon came to a cemetery in which was a large
monument of masonry with an iron cross on it. At one
grave there was a candle burning. We were told by some
of the people that in the time of the war a great battle
had been fought there between the natives and the French,
and that the monument had been built in honor of a great
French general who had fallen.

From there we passed on through a large cocoanut
grove, and in a short time came to a small village called
Tapuna. We turned into a house and not finding anyone
at home, sat down for a rest. In a little while we were
discovered by some of the villagers, who invited us in, and
as is usual among that people, inquired of us, saying, "Who
are you, where do you come from, where are you going,
and what is your business here in our land?" When we
informed them that we were ministers of the Gospel, they
were very much pleased, but when we told them that our
Church was called the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-
day Saints, commonly known as the Mormon Church, they
almost invariably showed signs of disappointment, and
seemed to have less interest in us. Still there were some
in almost every village who were kind enough to keep us
over night, give us the very best they had, and often go
with us a little way on our journey the next day. They
never failed to have a hymn sung, and often a chapter from
the Bible read, and would call on us to offer prayer. Then
the eldest of the young men who had called in — sometimes
there were ten or fifteen — would shake hands with us, fol-
lowed by all the rest, apparently according to age. The
young women then would do likewise, observing the same
rule, after which the older people would follow, the women
coming first in this case, such being their custom.

Before we left Tapuna, one man desired us to visit his
mother, who was sick with consumption. We complied
with this wish, but found that she had no faith in the Gos-

l8o LIFE OF A PIONEER.

pel. From there we passed on to an English missionary's
home, the headquarters of one Mr. Chisholm. He was hot
in, so we passed on to the next house, where, accord-
ing to what the people said, a very dissipated missionary
had lived, and the other had come to take his place. We
were told that the newcomer was no better than the old
one, for both were drunken and lustful and behaved very
badly with the women. Such was the general reputation,
among the natives, of the Protestant clergy at that date.
We went on till we were called into a house where
the people said they wished to know what we had to say
of religion. As soon as they learned that we differed from
their views they displayed no further concern in us,
and we departed. After wading many streams, and get-
ting very tired and hungry, we reached a village called
Uairai, where we were invited in to have a meal. We had
been indoors but a few minutes when the. people of the
village came running in as if to a dog fight or a monkey
show; for it was rarely they saw two white men traveling
as we were, they being accustomed to seeing the mission-
ary in a hammock carried by four stout men.

When we had been there a short time two men came
in with a message from the governor or chief magistrate
of the village, desiring us to call at his residence. As soon
as we had partaken of refreshments we complied with the
request, the whole assemblage of people following us.
We found his honor holding some kind of meeting with
the more aged people, the exact nature of which we did
not learn. He invited us in, gave us seats, and shook
hands with us very warmly. He then stood before us and
said, "Who are you, where do you come from, what is your
business here, and where are you going?" We answered
that we were ministers of the true Gospel of Jesus Christ,
and were traveling to preach to all people that were willing
or wished to hear the Gospel of salvation. "Well," he

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. l8l

said, "that is what we want here, but I must see the French
governor and our ministers before I can give permission
for any one to preach."

When the meeting was over he came to us again and
said he would be pleased to have us stop over night with
him. We accepted his kind invitation to visit his house,
and all the congregation followed, for a time seeming very
desirous of learning from us the true Gospel. We con-
versed with them quite awhile and there was not one to
oppose us, but all seemed' very well pleased with what we
had to say.

Supper over, we returned to the house of Miapui,
where we had left our valises, and where we spent the
night, being well treated by our host and by all who called
on us.

Next morning our host accompanied us on our way
until we met his brother, whom he instructed to see us
across a small bay that extended up to the base of the
mountain, which was so steep that we could not go around
its head. We were taken across in a canoe, paying a dol-
lar and a half. The man said the use of the canoe cost him
that amount, but he would take nothing for his services.
He then conducted us through a thick forest of timber and
underbrush to the Brom (state) road.

We next proceed to the isthmus, to a French fort gar-
risoned by one company of soldiers. The isthmus is about
one and a half miles across. From there we turned to the
northwest, towards Huaua. as it was too rough, steep and
dangerous to proceed closely along the coast. We traveled
homeward till i o'clock p. m., when we came to a little
hamlet called Otufai. There we met a man named Aili,
who invited us to dinner. We accepted his courtesy and
while there the school-teacher called and asked us to go
home with him. We also availed ourselves of this kind
invitation, finding the teacher, whose name was Tuamau,

l82 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

very friendly. We spent the night with him, being treated
well, but he did not evince much interest in what we had
to say on religious matters.

The following morning it was raining very hard, and
for a time it seemed that we were weatherbound ; but
breakfast over, it cleared off, and we proceeded on our way
to Hitia, where we stopped at the house of Fenuas and got
dinner. Then we went on to Tiara and visited with our
friend Pohe (in English, dead), or, as he was sometimes
called, Mahena Toru (third day). He made us feel very
much at home. This we were in a condition to fully appre-
ciate, for we had traveled on foot in the hot sands and sun
about one hundred and fifty miles, until we felt that we
were almost parboiled. . We had waded many streams of
water, which, though very disagreeable, helped to make our
journey more tolerable, through being cooling. The sharp
rocks and shells in the water courses made us pay penance
instead of pennies for crossing them. Sometimes the
streams were so swollen and ran so swiftly as to be very
dangerous, because the crossings were so near the sea that
if a man were to lose his footing he was liable to be carried
into the billows, from whence it would be almost if not
quite impossible to escape.

On the 9th of December we passed down three miles
to Huaua, where we found all our friends well, and some
prospects of getting an opening to preach.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 183

CHAPTER XXIV.

SCARCITY OF FOOD— TRAVELING IX HEAVY RAINS— CALL ON A PROT-
ESTANT MINISTER — ARRIVAL OF ANOTHER MISSIONARY AND
LETTERS FROM HOME— VISITORS FROM METIA— HOLD A SAC-
RAMENT MEETING— GO TO PAPARA— ABUSED BY THE PROTES-
TANT MINISTER — PREACH TO THE PEOPLE — YOUNG WOMAN
MIRACULOUSLY HEALED AT BAPTISM — GREAT EXCITEMENT -
RAGE OF THE PROTESTANT MINISTERS— PERSECUTION INSTI-
TUTED—ARRESTED FOR PREACHING— RELEASED ON PROMISING
TO RETURN TO HUAUA— PLENTY OF FRIENDS— UNINTENTIONAL
ESCAPE FROM GEN D' ARMES— ARRIVAL AT PAPEETE— CHARGE
ON WHICH OFFICERS SEEK TO ARREST ME— ABUSED BY REV.
MR. HOWE— A QUIET ANSWER CALLS OUT CHEERS FROM THE
CROWD— TIDE TURNS IN MY FAVOR— EXCITEMENT CALMS DOWN,
AND EFFORTS TO ARREST ME CEASE,

ON the 16th of December I set out from Huaua on a
short journey to a small hamlet called Tapuna.
Everywhere I went the people were complaining of the
great scarcity of food; still they managed to furnish me
with plenty, treating me very hospitably. About the 20th
I returned to Huaua and preached to the people. On the
29th and 30th I attended to my correspondence.

January 1, 185 1, I started for Tarepu, rinding the roads
quite muddy. It rained heavily, so that all the streams were
so swollen as to make my journey very hard and tiresome.
The majority of the people were rather surly and indiffer-
ent, so much so as not to invite me in out of the storm, so
I had to pass along to where I found more hospitality. The
trip altogether was a hard and ungrateful one. I had to
swim some of the watercourses, and barely escaped being
carried into the sea. I got everything I had with me, even
to my watch, thoroughly soaked. Then I sought a place
sheltered from the view of the passers-by, and there dried

184 LIFE OF A PIONEER,

my clothes. As I was alone almost all the time on this tripr
I felt it to be long and tedious, without any profitable re-
sults, as far as I could see. Yet I remembered that my
experience was that of a fisherman; and as my calling was
to fish for men I did not complain, but continued my jour-
ney to Hitia. There I called on one Mr. Baff, a Protes-
tant minister. I left a copy of the Voice of Warning for
him to read. When he returned it he sent a note thanking
me for the privilege of perusing it, but he did not express
an opinion of the work. I never had the pleasure of meet-
ing the gentleman again.

Having been informed that Elders Pratt and Dunn had
an opportunity of going to Tubuoi, I hastened back to
Huaua, to find that they had not. yet engaged their pass-
age. After resting two or three days, Brother Pratt sent
me down to Papeete to secure passage for them on Captain
Johnson's schooner, which was expected to sail in a few
days. I met Mr. Johnson, with whom I made a contract,
and returned next day. Then, on January 13th, all hands
went down to Papeete. We found that Brother John Lay-
ton had come from California, and brought letters for us
from the Elders who had been sent to the Sandwich Islands.

Mail matters considered and answers written, the pro-
gram was changed so that Elder Dunn did not go to Tubuoir
and as Brother Pratt had to wait a few days before he could
start, part of the native family that had accompanied us re-
mained to see him off, while the others returned with Brother
Dunn and I to lonely Huaua. In the meantime we learned
that Priest John Hawkins was expected down from Anaa
in a few days, when Brother Dunn was to return with him
to Anaa.

When we were at Huaua without Brother Pratt, the
place seemed doubly lonesome. On January 30th, I went
to Papeete and learned that Brother Hawkins had arrived
with some native brethren from Metia, and that all had

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 185

started in their canoes for Huaua, to which place I repaired
the next day. All were well. The native brethren went
back to Papeete, and Brother Hawkins and wife stayed at
Huaua a day or two; then he also went down, returning to
us in eight or ten days, accompanied by Elder Joseph Bus-
by, from Tubuoi. The latter said that he had started for
home, if it was agreeable to the brethren. He told us that
it would be two months before the brethren would come
with their new schooner, which they were building.

March 2nd, all hands went to Taunua, to a sacrament
meeting. We met in a house close down by the beach,
where we saw the vessel that Brother Busby sailed on for
home. There were sixty-seven brethren and sisters at the
meeting, and we had a very good-spirited time. We re-
turned to Huaua; and it was on March 12th, when, in com-
pany with our old, faithful friend and brother, Hamatua, and
family, I set sail in a whaleboat for Papara. We had a fine
breeze till we came to a hamlet called Otura, where we
stayed one night and were well cared for by our host, a
brother in the Church. On the 13th we continued our voy-
age by sea, having to row most of the time, for there was
no wind. We reached our destination, Papara, on the 14th,
and stopped at the house of Purua, a brother of Hamatua,
who had died, and his widow had sent for Hamatua to come
and move her and her family to his home. We found our
friends here very kind, and well pleased to meet us.

While at Papara, many people came in to see us. These
manifested a desire to know who I was, and my business
there, but showed great reluctance in shaking hands with
me. I learned that the cause of this diffidence was that they
were afraid of the Protestant ministers. For a while they
kept very shy of me. I called on their minister, Mr. Chis-
holm, and presented him with a Voice of Warning, which
I asked him to read; but when I held it out to him he said no,
he would not read it or anything the Mormons had; "but,"
12

1 86 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

said he. "I want to exhort you, and show you that you are
deluded." I asked what he knew about our Church to
cause him to be so excited. He said he had had a letter
from Simeon A. Dunn, one of our Elders, and that public
opinion was enough to satisfy him that we were false teach-
ers and deceivers of the people. At that he called one Mr.
Davis from a side room. The latter was totally blind, and
had spent most of his life on the islands. Both of them re-
viled at me, and rehearsed many of the old slanders about
Joseph Smith and the Mormons. I left them in disgust, re-
turning to my friends, where' I found many people congre-
gated. These were quite sociable.

Soon a messenger came from the minister and asked
what kind of baptism we believed in. When I said that we
believed in immersion, that seemed to please the people
very much, as I turned to the third chapter of Matthew and
showed them that Christ was baptized in that manner. From
that time the house was thronged with people anxiously in-
quiring for the doctrines we taught.

On March 16th I was sent for by a sick man, who
wanted to be anointed. When I told him about the order
of the Church, and that he should repent and be baptized
for the remission of his sins, and thus become entitled to the
blessings of the Gospel, he said that it was of no use to him
for he was a great sinner and could not repent in one day.
Then he said, "I shall have to remain sick." He had his
own way to look at things, and as we were unable to con-
vince him otherwise, we returned to our stopping place.

Shortly after this I was called to see a young woman
who had been under medical treatment by the Protestant
ministers for four months. Her name was Maui. She
had been reduced to a mere skeleton, and was unable to
stand alone. When I came, she said she had heard of the
doctrine that I had preached to the people, and knew it was
true, "for," said she, "it is all in the Bible." She was the

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 87

foremost scholar of the district, and was highly respected
by the ministers as well as by the whole people. When it
became known that I had been called to see her, it aroused
an excitement, and many people came together, insomuch
that the house could not hold them all. As I talked with her
on the first principles of the Gospel, she would say, "Yes,
that is so, for it is in the Bible;" and she said, "I am willing
to be baptized now, for I know that what you tell me is the
truth." I asked the consent of her parents and of her young
husband, who readily acceded to her desire. Then I told
them that if they would take her to a suitable place by the
creek, I would meet them there and attend to the baptiz-
ing. Accordingly, they carried her to the creek, some ten
or twelve rods away, where I met them, prepared for the
work. There were probably one hundred people assembled.
After singing and prayer, I went into the water and the
friends of the young woman helped her to me, I having to
aid in holding her on her feet while I said the baptismal
ceremony. When she came up out of the water she thanked
God, saying, "I am healed of the Lord," and walked out of
the water and home without assistance, although her friends
offered aid. This excited the people so much that some of
the young woman's particular friends prepared to come into
the water of baptism, but the older ones prevailed on them
to wait a while, saying maybe they would all go together.

When I had changed my clothing and had gone to
where the new convert was, I found her sitting on the bed
and praising God, bearing her testimony that she was healed
of the Lord, and that we had the true Gospel. The baptism
of this young woman was the first that I had administered,
she being my first convert. The house where we had as-
sembled was crowded to overflowing, and when I had con-
firmed her I returned to my stopping place, the people fol-
lowing me. There must have been at least three hundred
of them. Several brought bedding and camped under the

1 88 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

trees around the house, while others were preparing a feast
for the occasion, in which they roasted eleven big hogs, and
gathered fish, fruit and vegetables for the roast.

This was too much for the Protestant ministers, for,
as I was sitting at a table expounding the scriptures to the
people, in came a lusty Frenchman in citizen's clothes. He
took a seat among the people for a short time, then slipped
away and donned his police uniform, with belt, sword and
pistol; then, with a comrade similarly attired, he reappeared
at the door and asked me if I had a permit from the gover-
nor. I told him I had one at home, but not with me. At
that he, in a rather rough tone of voice, bade me follow
them. Without hesitation I did so, and about a hundred of
the people came after us to the mission station, where I was
ushered into the presence of Messrs. Chisholm, Howe and
Davis. All of them were what were called English or Prot-
estant missionaries. Mr. Howe acted as chief spokesman
or prosecutor, while Mr. Chisholm filled the 'role of justice,
Mr. Davis appearing to be his assistant. Thus arrayed,
they told me that I had been arrested and brought before
them because 1 had raised a very unusual excitement among
the people, and I could not produce a permit from the gov-
ernment as a resident on the island. They said I was cap-
able of making much disturbance among the people, and
the decision they had come to was that if I would not agree
to leave the place by 8 a. m. next day I would be locked
up in a dungeon until I. did agree to leave.

Of course I consented to depart at the appointed time,
thinking I could get my permit and return in a few days
Then they told me I was at liberty, but they did not release
me until they had scored me unmercifully with their tongues
for belonging to such a set of impostors as "Old Joe Smith
and the Mormons" were. Said Mr. Chisholm, "You are
a fine young man, capable of doing much good if you had
not been deceived by that impostor, Old Joe Smith." They

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 1 89

told me to cease my preaching and deceiving the people,
and that I had better go home. At that I pocketed their
insults and left them. Many of the people followed me to
my stopping place, some of them shouting triumphantly for
the young Mormon missionary, and calling shame on the
English ministers.

A house full of people had assembled, and we sat up
till a late hour that night talking on the principles of the
Gospel. Early next morning our boat was filled with the
family and provisions, and we sailed at 8 o'clock. I put on
a fisherman's suit and took the helm, facing outward from
the shore. I did not have any particular object in view at
the time in doing this, yet it seemed to serve a purpose, for
we had sailed but a few miles when we saw two mounted
gen d' armes come out of the woods to the sandy beach,
where they stopped and watched our boat till they seemed
satisfied there was no missionary on board, and passed on.
Then it occurred to us that if I had not been in the unin-
tentional disguise they would have stopped our boat and
arrested me, for they were well armed, and could have
reached us easily with their firearms. As we afterwards
learned, they passed on to where we had come from and
made a thorough search for me, going through houses,
turning up the beds, and scouring the coffee groves and
every place the supposed Mormon missionary could have
hidden. Then they and the Protestant missionaries called
a meeting of the people and thoroughly warned them against
the Mormons, and especially against young Iatobo (James),
as they called me. At this mass meeting Mr. Baff, one of
the oldest of the English missionaries, appeared with the
others I have mentioned.

There was another incident that seemed to be very
providential, though disagreeable at the time. The wind
died away to a perfect calm, and when we came to an
opening in the outlying coral reef, we thought that by go-

I9O LIFE OF A PIONEER.

ing out through the opening we might catch a breeze, and
could hoist the sail and make better headway; so we
steered for the open sea. There we found that we had to
row all day before we could get back within the reef. Thus
we were carried so far from the land that passers-by could
not discern who we were, and we were kept from the gen
d' armes till sundown. Then we landed away from the
thoroughfare, in heavy timber. In that way we escaped
our enemies, for next morning we were off and out in the
open sea soon after sunrise. We rowed all day and till
11 o'clock p. m., then landed in an obcsure place, and were
up and off again by sunrise, putting out to sea and keeping
there till we reached the western passage to the harbor of
Papeete. There we went ashore near a large American
tile establishment's wholesale and retail department. Just
in front of this lay a large American warship. The water
was very deep, so that the vessel was moored to the shore,
the gangway resting upon the street, where a great many
people had gathered.

As soon as we landed I stepped into the retail depart-
ment referred to, on some little errand. In a couple of min-
utes or so I was confronted by the Rev. Mr. Howe, who
has been mentioned before. He was a fine-looking Eng-
lish gentleman of thirty-five or forty years of age. He
came up and shook hands with me, saying, "Mr. Brown,
are you aware that the gen d' armes are in search of you?
You must have been in hiding somewhere. They have
searched Papara for you, and now are searching this town,
and there is great excitement over your actions. You had
better be cautious what you are about." I could not under-
stand at first what he meant, so I asked him what I had
done to create such a great excitement as to have the
police hunting for me. I said I had not been in hiding at
all, had not thought of such a thing. He replied, "Why,
sir, you have gone and plunged a young lady head and ears

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. IQI

into the cold water, and we have had her under medical
treatment for four months, and expected her to die. Now
you have endangered her life by plunging her into cold
water. She is one of the most talented and smartest women
of this island. We have taken great pains to educate her,
and she is widely known and respected by everyone who
knows her."

"Well," said I, "what harm have I done? She was
healed of her sickness, as she and her mother testified to
me before I left, and every person who was present can bear
witness of the same."

"Ah, well," said he, "you have such a fierce counte-
nance and expressive voice as to excite a person under the
most excruciating pain until they would not realize they
had any suffering at all. She may relapse and die, then
you will have grave responsibilities to meet for your un-
warranted act." He continued talking, turning to intimida-
tion and abusive language until he said it was a great pity
that one of my natural endowments lacked in educational
attainments, for if I had been taught in Greek or Latin I
would have understood that baptism was baptiso in Latin,
and meant merely the application of water, and not to
plunge people head and ears in the shameful and ridiculous
manner that he said I had done.

By this time we were talking so very loud as to attract
the attention of all around. Finally Mr. Howe said, "Do
you teach the people that baptism is essential to the salva-
tion of man or the soul?" I told him I did. "Then," said
he, "you teach a lie, and I will follow you up and tell the
people that you are a liar and teach false doctrine." As
my calling as a missionary would not admit of a violent re-
taliation, I merely said to him that in my country that
would be very ungentlemanly language for one minister to
use towards another, but I supposed it was some of the

I92 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Greek and Latin that he had been learned in. Then I
turned away from him.

My action brought a tremendous cheer from the
Americans on board the warship, and from all who under-
stood the conversation. The people assembled hurrahed
for the Mormon boy. At that my antagonist turned very
red in the face. Some of the natives ran up to him, point-
ing their fingers at him, and shouting, "Look how red his
nose is! The Mormon boy has whipped him!" They
rushed around me to shake hands, and seemed as if they
would carry me on their shoulders. It should be understood
that we talked partly in English and partly in Tahitian, so
that all could understand in a general way what we said,
for we had grown very earnest if not heated in our discus-
sion.

Soon after this I went up through the town and there
learned from several people that there had been much ex-
citement over my having baptized the sick young lady, and
that the police had searched the place over for me. I
realized then that if it had not been for the calm weather
we had had at sea we would have got into town just ai the
height of the excitement, and I would have been locked
in prison. So, thanks for the calm, although when we were
in it we wished for wind that we might make better head-
way; but that delay gave time for reflection, and for the
news of the young lady's convalescence to reach Papeete,
so that I could pass on my way without further insult.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. I93

CHAPTER XXV.

SEVERAL BAPTISMS— VISIT PAPARA AGAIN— COLDNESS OF THE PEOPLE-
BITTER EFFORTS OF THE PROTESTANT MINISTERS— NATIVES VISIT
ME IN SECRET— ANTI-MORMON MASS MEETING— FOOLISH AND
VICIOUS SCHEME TO ENSNARE THE WRITER— IT IS EASILY DE-
FEATED—RETURN TO PAPEETE— MORE BAPTISMS— DEPARTURE OF
ELDER DUNN— I AM LEFT ALONE— BRETHREN COME FROM TUBUOI
—ELDERS APPOINTED TO LABOR IN DIFFERENT ISLANDS-THE
WRITER ASSIGNED TO THE TUAMOTU GROUP— LEAVE ON THE
ELDERS' SCHOONER, THE RAVAI OR FISHER— MEET WITH CON-
TRARY WINDS— DRIVEN TO VARIOUS ISLANDS— ENCOUNTER A VIO-
LENT STORM — IN GREAT PERIL — VESSEL BEYOND CONTROL-
STORM CALMS DOWN— REACH TUBUOI— FIRST PREACHING OF THE
GOSPEL THERE, IN 1844.

WE reached our home at Huaua on the 20th of
March, and found all well. On the 23rd I baptized
Tereino and Maioa, and on the 24th Brother Dunn baptized
two other persons besides Brother Hamatua and two of his
children. Then I sailed for Papara, after providing myself
with the permit that I lacked on our previous visit. We
stopped at Taunua the first night, the 25th, having had to
row all the way.

On the 26th we reached Papara, where the people
acted very coolly towards us. There was one friend, how-
ever, who dared invite us in and provide us with food and
lodging. On inquiry, we learned that the young lady who
had been ill and was healed at her baptism was sound and
well, and had been so from the time she was baptized. We
also learned that Messrs. Howe, Chisholm, Baff and Davis
had called the people together after the baptism, inquired of
them where I was, had the town searched for me, and had
sought diligently to learn if I had spoken against them or
against the French government; but they failed to learn any-

194 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

thing of this kind on which to base an accusation against me,
and had to content themselves by telling the people all the
foul slanders they had heard against the Mormons andjoseph
Smith, and by warning the people against us, saying that
if they took us in or bade us Godspeed they would not be
permitted to partake of the sacrament in their church, and
if they went to hear us preach they would be excommuni-
cated. They sent a delegation to the young lady whom I
had baptized, to see if she had been healed, and through
being intimidated she said no. Her relatives had quarreled
over the matter, some being in favor of her saying that she
was not, while others said that she was healed. The re-
port that the delegation made to their masters, however,
was that she said she had not been healed; when I went to
see her, she ran out to meet me, and told me that she had
not been sick one day since she had been baptized.

By such means as those I have named, the ministers
sought to turn the people against us, and strongly forbade
them to show us any favors whatever; and when the
natives could come secretly and talk with us they would
explain, "Now, if we come openly and investigate your
doctrine and are not satisfied with it, then we will be turned
out of society. For that reason we dare not receive you
or come and talk openly with you. Our hearts are good
towards you, but we are watched by the police, so that we
dare not be friendly with you where we can be seen."

As soon as the ministers learned that we had returned,
they called another meeting, at which they seemed to take
delight in abusing and vilifying the Mormons in general
and me in particular. When the meeting was over, they
called two pretty young women, and privately told them to
dress themselves as nicely as they could and perfume them-
selves and make themselves as attractive as possible, then
to take their Bibles and hymn books and get into conversa-
tion with the Mormon missionary, Iatobo (James). They

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF [AMES S. BROWN. I95

were to be very sociable and friendly to me. They had
been told also that they would learn that the Mormons were
licentious deceivers, and that my actions would show that I
was a licentious rascal and would lead them astray. Or-
ders were also given them that when they had proved this
they were to return and report to the ministers. I came
into possession of this information regarding the scheme
through the spirit of discernment, and by the confession
of the parties themselves.

The young ladies came as instructed, and the moment
they entered the door and I inhaled the perfumes I had the
discernment of their mission and the instructions they were
under from their ministers. Nevertheless they were wel-
comed in and took seats just in front of and close to the
writer, on a mat. In the blandest and most pleasant man-
ner they began to make scripture inquiries, accepting every
answer as final, and assenting to all I had to say. They be-
came more and more sociable and bold, until at length one
of them raised on her knees, and placing her open Bible
upon the writer's knee, at the same time looked him squarely
in the face with her most pleasant smile. He at once moved
his chair back, and said to them, "You have not come here
with the object that you profess to come with, but your
mission is a deceptive one, and you have been sent here by
your ministers to try to deceive me, thinking to lead me
into lewd and wicked practices that I am a stranger to.
Now, if you wish anything of that kind you must return to
your masters who sent you, and tell them that if they wish
you to be accommodated in that way, they will have to do it
themselves, for Mormon Elders are not guilty of such prac-
tices, though they have proofs that the ministers are. And
I exhort you to be ashamed and to repent of your sins, and
be baptized for their remission, and you will know that what
I have told you is true."

At this rebuke, they both confessed openly that every

I96 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

word I had said was true, and that they had been sent for
no other purpose than the one I have stated. As they had
come straight from the minister's house, they wondered how
the writer could tell them so directly what their ministers
had ordered them to do, and how he came to read their
mission so accurately. They said, ilJVb te varua tera" (that
is of the Spirit); for no one else could have told him so cor-
rectly. At that they took their leave, and I heard no more
of them or their mission.

The ministers called another meeting on March 29th.
I attended that, and after service asked permission to speak
a few moments. This being granted by Mr. Davis, I merely
gave notice that I was a minister of the Church of Jesus
Christ of Latter-day Saints, there on a mission to teach the
true Gospel, and if any wished to hear me I was at their
service, if they would permit. There was no response, so
a hymn was sung, and the people dispersed. At night a
few came to hear me, but seemed to be under such restraint
that there was no pleasure in talking to them.

We spent several days at the place without any suc-
cess, owing to the great prejudice of the people, and the
unwarranted hatred of their ministers. Then we left for
Papeete, starting on April 2nd, and arriving at our desti-
nation at daylight on the 3rd. Having had to row all the
way, we were very tired, so stopped to get some needed
rest. In the evening we baptized one person, Maua. On
the 6th we attended meeting with about twenty of the Tua-
motu Saints, then the boat and the others of the party went
home while I tarried till the next day, going home by land
to Hapape, where I found a boat bound direct for Huaua,
so I took passage on it, and was wafted there speedily.

It was on April 19th that I started for Otumaro. On
the 2 1 st we got to that place, where I stayed while the
others of the party made a visit to Papara. On their re-
turn I joined them and proceeded to Papeete, wThere I left

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 197

the boat again and walked the remainder of the journey.
The next day the rest of the party came up by sea; and
on the 29th we baptized three more persons.

While at Otumaro, some Matia brethren came from
Hitia after a missionary or two. Matia is a small island
about ninety miles north of Tahiti. Brother Dunn, being
very tired of Huaua, concluded that he would go with them,
they taking his trunk and bedding on their shoulders and
marching off, apparently in triumph. They insisted that
I should go with them as well, but having been left in charge
of the mission on Tahiti, I did not feel at liberty to leave,
as Brother Pratt had told me to remain there until the new
schooner should arrive. Therefore I turned alone to my
missionary labors. On the 29th I baptized Tuane; and at
Huaua on May 4th I baptized Tafatua and Tafai, who had
been baptized by Brother Pratt; they confessed that they
had been led astray, but desired to return to the true fold.
The same day I administered the sacrament to twenty-one
souls.

Just at dark on May 12th, 185 1, we heard a gun fired
at sea. We hastened to the beach, and, sure enough, it
was our long-looked-for brethren on their new schooner,
which was named the Ravai (Fisher.) Brother John Haw-
kins having joined us, he and Hamatua went off in a canoe
to get the news. They found all well. Next day we joined
them in the harbor of Papeete, and remained with them on
board the schooner and wrote letters.

On the 15th Brothers Pratt John Lay ton, Hawkins and
the wives of the last two, as well as some of the native
brethren, sailed in awhaleboat for Huaua, while we stopped
at Hapape and took a nap, and at 2 o'clock a. m. started
back, reaching our destination at daylight on the 16th.
We rested on the 17th, and on the 18th, in council, Elders
Thomas Whitaker, Julian Moses and two native brethren
were appointed to labor as missionaries on Tahiti; Elders

I98 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

John Hawkins, Alviras Hanks, Simeon A. Dunn and James
S. Brown were appointed to labor among the inhabitants of
the Tuamotu group of islands.

On May 19th, Brothers Pratt, Layton and Hawkins
set out for Papeete, and at 3. p. m. Brothers T. Whitaker
and Pohe, with their families, started for Pueu in a boat
belonging to some of their relatives. On the 21st, the
schooner — the new one built at Tubuoi, and commanded by
Benjamin F. Grouard — called with the brethren who went
down the day before on board. She was bound for Anaa,
two hundred and ten miles east, or nearly so. When they
got opposite Huaua, Captain Grouard came ashore and
said they desired me to accompany them, as they intended
to call by Tubuoi before returning to Tahiti.

In fifteen or twenty minutes I was ready, and we soon
boarded the little vessel. She was thirty-five or forty tons
burden, had poor accommodations on board, and was insuf-
ficiently supplied with provisions. We started, but the
wind being contrary, we soon had to change our course, so
that on the 24th we sighted Riroa, and on the 25th we
touched at Uratua and got some cocoanuts. In consequence
of the strong current there, we could not make much head-
way, but in trying to beat around it we sighted Anutua.
On the next tack we came to Aunua, where we went
ashore and found a small branch of the Church. The
Saints were very kind to us, showing every favor they
could, and pressing us to allow one of our number to remain
with them. But it was not considered proper to grant the
request, so we held two meetings and preached to them,
giving them all the cheer and comfort that we could, and
then left. They seemed to appreciate our visit and coun-
sel as only Latter-day Saints can.

Again we sailed for Anaa, but the strong wind and
waves prevailed against us, so that we were driven so far
from our course that we sighted Faraua on May 31st, and

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. I99

on June ist we encountered a very heavy storm, commenc-
ing at 5:30 and continuing till up. m., when it seemed to
abate a little. At 7 p. m. all sails had been taken in save
the foresail, which was close-reefed, and as the vessel was
beyond our control, our best seamen being willing to admit
that they could do nothing for us, the helm was lashed
down, and all hands went below. The hatch was securely
fastened down, leaving only two of our best and bravest
men lashed on deck with slack rope. Everyone seemed to
realize our peril, and that we must rely alone on the
Almighty to save us from destruction. There was land all
around, and the wind and currents were so strong that it
was impossible, with the means at our command, to direct
the course of our little Fisher. I must leave the friendly
reader to draw his own conclusions as to the condition we
were in, for I have not the ability to describe it. Suffice it
to say that through the mercies of the Lord we were
spared to find ourselves perfectly landlocked by three
islands, namely, Anutua, Apatai and Aunua. Again getting
control of the vessel, we put into the harbor at Apatai,
that being considered the safest place. There we found
some Church members, and were treated very kindly. We
remained there until the 6th, holding meetings and preach-
ing to the people.

Apatai is one of the islands of poison fish, and we felt
the effects of these slightly before we left. We had a fair
wind for Anaa on the 6th, when we started, but it soon died
away and we were left to drift with a very strong current.
On the 7th we found ourselves drifted down by the side of
Anutua. Having some natives of that island on board
they were sent ashore. Jonathan Crosby went with them,
and returned with the boat. From thence we had a pleas-
ant voyage to Anutua. There we went ashore and
preached to the people. Brothers Grouard's and Hawkins'
wives also landed.

200 LIFE OF A PIONEER

We left them on the 9th, and sailed for Tubuoi. Hav-
ing a fair and strong wind, we were wafted to Matia, where
we left some passengers belonging to that island. We
also took in a small supply of provisions, as our store was
very scanty. Then we continued towards Tubuoi, having
a favorable wind till we got within eighty miles of our des-
tination. Then a strong headwind forced us to change our
course, so that we put into a small island called Loivivi.
This was on the 17th. The island does not exceed four
miles in length and two in width; there were three hundred
and eighty-three people living on it. They had the wildest
and fiercest look of any that we had met on our cruise, yet
they behaved very well to us. On the 18th we sailed again
for Tubuoi, and on the 20th we cast anchor at that island,
which lies between the twenty-third and twenty-fourth par-
allels, south latitude. It is only twelve or fifteen miles in
length, and from a distance resembles the tops of mountains
in a plain. Its inhabitants numbered four hundred, all told.

It was on this island that the Gospel was first preached
in this dispensation, in the islands of the Pacific Ocean.
This preaching was by Elder Addison Pratt, July 12, 1844.
He was accompanied by Elders Noah Rogers and B. F.
Grouard, they having been sent by the Prophet Joseph
Smith, from Nauvoo, Hancock County, Illinois, U. S. A.,
in the year 1843. Knowlton Hanks was one of the mis-
sionaries who left Nauvoo, but he died on the voyage from
Boston to Tubuoi, after the vessel had rounded Cape Horn-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 201

CHAPTER XXVI.

HEARTY WELCOME IN TUBUOI— START FOR TUAMOTTT— REACH PAPEETE,
TAHITI-YISIT TO HUAUA— LEAVE TAHITI— WRITER GETS RELIEF
FROM SEASICKNESS— BROILED FISH AND COCOANUTS— IN A SCHOOL
OF WHALES— THROWN INTO A CORAL REEF— TOTAL WRECK IMMI-
NENT—THREE PERSONS GET ASHORE— BOAT GOES OUT TO SEA-
WRECK OF ELDER DUNN'S PARTY— THREE DAYS IN THE SEA,
CLINGING TO A CAPSIZED K OAT— CLOTHING TORN OFF BY SHARKS
—SKIN TAKEN OFF BY THE SEA AND SUN— REACH THE ISLAND OF
ANAA-RECOGNIZED BY A MAN WHO HAD SEEN ME IN A DREAM-
PREACHING AND BAPTIZING— MANY OF THE NATIVES CHURCH
MEMBERS— MAKE A RUDE MAP OF THE CALIFORNIA GOLD FIELDS
—TELL OF HAVING BEEN IN THE MORMON BATTALION— CATHOLIC
PRIESTS ELICIT THIS INFORMATION AS PART OF A SCHEME TO
HAVE ME EXPELLED FROM THE ISLAND.

WHEN we landed on Tubuoi on May 20th, we found
the people feeling well. They were greatly pleased
to see us, and we rejoiced to meet with and preach to them.
We traveled from village to village preaching, and visited
the people from house to house, being received everywhere
in the most friendly manner.

On July 1st and 2nd we attended to correspondence,
and on the 3rd everything was in readiness and we sailed
with a cargo of cattle for Tahiti. Elder A. Hanks and the
writer were bound for the Tuamotu group of islands. On
the 6th, after a pleasant voyage, with the exception of sea-
sickness, we landed at Papeete, Tahiti, all well.

Our captain said that he would only remain in harbor
a day or two, then would sail for Anaa. As I desired to
visit the brethren at Huaua, fifteen miles up the coast, I
started at 4 p. m., afoot and alone, and reached my destina-
tion the same evening. I was surprised when the whole
family, men, women and children, leaped from their beds

13

202 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

and embraced me, and wept for joy. Some refreshments
were provided, and we then turned in for the remainder of
the night.

I stayed there until the 8th, and met with Elders
Julian Moses and T. Whitaker, who accompanied me to
Papeete, where we arrived at i o'clock p. m., and found
the vessel being prepared to sail. Brother Hanks was
detained in getting his permit until it was too late to get
out of the passage till the 9th, then the wind came straight
into the passage, so that we had to drop anchor till late in
the afternoon. We managed to get clear that night, but
the wind being contrary we did not lose sight of land till
the 10th; then we had a perfect calm for two days. Late
in the evening of the 12th we got a light breeze. This
day was the first time in my life that I could say that I was
well at sea. Never before that evening had I gone below
and enjoyed a meal of victuals; but from that time on I
could take my rations with the rest except in a storm.

On July 13th we sighted and passed Metia, and sighted
Tikahau; the 14th Matea was in view, and we passed along
close to the weather end of Riroa; the 18th we were near
Uratua. There two boats were let down, one to pull up
through the lagoon of the island, twenty miles long, to
where Brother Hawkins lived, and the other to fish. About
11 p. m. we neared the village when the natives came and
conducted us to the place. They spread some broiled fish
and cocoanuts before us; and of course we were thankful
to get that, for there was no other food on the island. This
was all that some of the inhabitants ever had to eat on their
own island, save an occasional pig or a chicken. After the
refreshments we turned in for the night.

Next morning we were feasted as best the people
could do. We preached to them, then sailed away; for
our schooner was waiting for us. We next headed for
Riroa, as we could not get a wind for Anaa, which we had

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 203

been trying to reach from the time we left Tahiti. On the
21st we passed through a school of whales to the harbor.
Again we encountered a strong current coming out of the
passage, and a headwind. Then," in trying to beat up into
the harbor, our vessel failed to stay, and we were driven
into the coral rock, which stood up in the water like tree-
tops. Crash we went, and the vessel began to quiver and
jar. All hands and the cook had an awful scare, and for a
few moments it looked as though our vessel would be a
total wreck, and we be all spilled into the raging billows,
among crags and rocks. But thanks to the Lord, this was
averted. Three of us succeeded in gaining the shore in
safety, and the vessel put to sea for the night, coming in
on the 22nd to anchor.

On shore we were feasted on broiled fish, cocoanuts
and roast pig. The people seemed overjoyed at our visit.
We called a meeting and preached to them, encouraging
them in their religious duties.

It was while we were on this island that we heard from
Brothers Dunn and Crosby, who were well. We also heard
from Manahuni and party, who left Tahiti at the same time
that we departed on our first cruise. They sailed for Anaa,
in a small, open boat called the Anaura, the same that
Brother Grouard made many trips in from island to island,
and in which he had many narrow escapes. But Manahuni
and his party of six brethren and sisters had a much severer
experience than any former party. Their boat capsized in
a heavy storm, the same that we had been caught in on our
former cruise. They lost everything save their lives, and
these were preserved only by clinging to the keel of the
boat for three days and three nights. Finally the boat
righted itself, and they drifted to the island of Tikahau,
but not till the last rag of clothing had been torn from their
bodies by sharks, and much of the skin—all of the cuticle-
had sloughed off through their being in the salt water and

204 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

hot sun so long. But their lives were spared to them, and
they were nourished by the kind people of Tikahau, until
they were able to reach the island of their destination, Anaa.

A "fair wind for Anaa came on July 26th, so we left
for that place. At dawn on the 28th we sighted the island,
and at 10 o'clock a. m. we landed at Tuuhora. As we
neared the shore I was seated in the stern of the boat,
when a man came bounding through the water and passed
all our party till he came to me. Then he reached out his
hand, which had in it five pearls wrapped in a little rag,
and said, "Here ! I have seen you before. You have come to
be our president, for you have been shown to me in a
dream. Welcome, welcome to our land!" Just then he
turned his back for the writer to get on, and in this way
took me to the shore, where the people soon prepared a
feast of welcome, as is their custom when their friends
come to see them. No feast, no welcome.

The feasting over, with Brothers Hanks and Hawkins
I visited the branches, the three of us traveling together,
preaching and baptizing the people, who came forward in
large numbers to receive the ordinance. August 5, 185 1,
Brother Hanks left for Taroa, and Brother Hawkins for
Arutua. I had been appointed to preside on Anaa, and
commenced my labors in that duty. On the 6th I was in-
structed, by Elder B. F. Grouard, to travel and preach, to
reorganize the branches wherever it was necessary, and to
organize and teach schools as I might find it prudent ; in fact,
to do all things pertaining to my calling as a missionary.
Thus I started out alone.

One of the first things I found after I began my labors
was that there were four Catholic priests on the island,
building four stone churches; that they had about thirty
natives employed on them, and that no others would attend
their religious services; it was claimed that there were
about nine hundred persons belonging to the Mormon

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 2C>5

Church, most of them being members in good standing.
There were no natives there belonging to the Catholic
church.

On one occasion soon after my arrival, I was being
questioned, in a conversation, about California and the gold
fields, and also about my birthplace and the city of my
residence. I took a sheet of paper and sketched a rough
outline of the gold fields. One of the natives who appar-
ently had been greatly interested in the narrative, asked
for the sketch. It being given to him, he went off and
soon returned with a large sheet of drawing paper, on
which he requested me to draw a map, on a larger scale,
showing my birthplace, where Salt Lake City was from
there, and the location of the gold fields. Then the ques-
tion was asked, how I came to be in California at so early
a date. I told them I went there in the Mormon Battalion,
in the service of the United States, during the war with
Mexico. Little did I think I was mapping out the outlines
of a foundation for a wicked and false charge to be pre-
ferred against me by the Catholic priest. Neither did I
have the remotest idea that my rude sketch would be used
in crediting me with being a civil engineer of no mean abil-
ity, nor that my having been in the army of the United
States would entitle me to the dignity of a highly educated
military graduate from some United States army school;
nor was I aware that my walk and carriage were that of
an officer in the military establishment of my government.
Yet the sequel will show that all this was the case.

206 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

CHAPTER XXVII.

INVITED TO ORGANIZE SCHOOLS— CATHOLIC PRIESTS DISPLEASED AT
MORMOX SUCCESS — GOOD ATTENDANCE AT THE SCHOOLS —
THREATS BY THE PRIESTS— DISCOMFITURE OF THE LATTER-
FEAST AND ADDRESS OF WELCOME BY THE NATIVES TO THE
WRITER— PREACHING AND BAPTISMS— CATHOLIC PRIESTS SEIZE
A SCHOOLHOUSE BELONGING TO THE SAINTS— DISTURB A SAINTS'
MEETING— MORE BAPTISMS— FURTHER ANNOYANCE BY CATHOLICS
—PEOPLE DECIDE AGAINST THEM— TOWN OFFICIALS APPEALED
TO— THEY UPHOLD THE DECISION IN FAVOR OF THE MORMONS-
PRIESTS WRITE TO GOVERNOR BONARD, MAKING FALSE CHARGES
AGAINST ME— A PECULIAR DREAM.

ON August 7th I was solicited by the chief men of
Putuhara to assist them in organizing a school.
Indeed, the whole people were anxious to have me aid them
in this, therefore I took hold as requested. They had no
school at that time, and were looking for a white Elder to
start one, as they themselves had but a vague idea of the
proper order or rules to govern such an organization. The
writer did not have the remotest idea that he would meet
with the antagonism of the Catholic priests in this matter,
as there was a unanimous desire for him among the people,
who had rejected the offer of the priest stationed at that
place. However, I soon heard that the priest was displeased
because the people had rejected him and supported us by
sending their children to our school, and by feasting me
and showing me marked preference in many ways. Our
house was crowded to its full capacity every evening, while
the priest sat alone in his studio.

On August 1 2th we had thirty-six students; by the
14th the school had increased to sixty-five. The priest
came to the door, looked in, then turned short on his heel,

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 207

and went away without speaking, yet showing his dis-
pleasure in his manner. Soon he got a house to run oppo-
sition in school work, but he failed to get pupils. Then he
became very cross and snarly at every one he came in con-
tact with; at least, so said the people.

In company with some of my friends, I went to
Otapipi on August 15th. We met a man with a letter from
the head Catholic priest, for me. It was in the Tahitian
language, and began as follows: "Iarran Iatobo, i te Atua"
(James, how do you do in the Lord?) and continued, trans-
lated into English: "This is what I have to say to you: Do
not trouble our schools, and we will not trouble yours. If
you do so again, I will send for the governor's aide de
camp, and we will have you tried before him. You must
not trouble us any more." It closed with "Tidar Paran
Iaraan ae, Tavara" (That is all the talk. Good bye to you.)
As we had not knowingly interfered with their schools we
did not make any reply, but continued our journey to
Otapipi, and held a prayer meeting at that place at 3
o'clock p. m. While there I saw a priest and his two
attendants coming across the lake. They landed, and came
straight to the house where we had put up. The priest
walked in without hesitation, and politely offered to shake
hands. We met him as politely, and took his hand. Then
he asked if we had received a letter from the priest below.
We informed him that we had. "Well," said he, "we don't
want you to interfere with our schools, and we will not with
yours." At the same time he threatened me with the
governor's authority, if we did not "walk straight." After
some discourse, I asked him what kind of a God he wor-
shiped. He said a spirit without body or parts; but he
failed to find any Scripture to support his belief, and the
people who had gathered around laughed at him, making
him feel very much out of temper. On August 16th he
called a few children together and spoke briefly to them in

208 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Latin or some language that I did not understand. Then
he departed for another village.

Soon after this, the people prepared a feast in honor
of our visit. The food consisted of roasted fish and fowl.
Many little presents were also brought, such as could be
made from the fiber of the cocoanut husk, mats, shells, etc.
When all was laid before us, the spokesman said, in sub-
stance, in the Tahitian language: "James, as a token of our
great love and respect for you, the servant of God, we, the
people of Otapipi, Anaa, have collected of all the varieties
of food that our land affords, and a few articles of use.
Here is a pig, there is a fish, and fowl, and here are cocoa-
nuts. This is meat and drink for us, and all that is pro-
duced in our land. We wish you to accept it from all of us
as your true friends, and we wish you to eat and be full.
Be our president and teacher in the Gospel, and a teacher
of our children; for we are glad to have you come to our
land as a father and guide. Our hearts are full of gladness
that God has sent you to our land, that we may be taught
to love the true and living God, for we have always been
in the dark, and did not know there was a true and living
God to love and worship. Now we have no more to say.
Amen."

The foregoing is a fair representation of the addresses
made to us on occasions such as that was. That night the
house could not hold all who came to search the Scriptures
and sing sacred hymns. Three persons offered themselves
for baptism, and were put off till Sunday, the 17th, when I
preached on faith, repentance, and baptism for the remis-
■sion of sins. At the afternoon services, I exhorted the
people to be faithful, told them the conditions on which
they could be admitted into the Church, and said that all
who felt to accept those conditions might be accommodated
that evening, as I had three candidates to wait on at the
close of the services.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 209

When the meeting was over, the whole congregation
-gathered down by the seaside. We sang a hymn and
prayed, and I went down into the water and remained there
until I had baptized thirty-five souls. When these were
confirmed, the people remained together to a late hour
before they would disperse. On August 18th, agreeable
to the request of the people and with the approval of the
rulers of the village, I opened a school, classified the stu-
dents, and chose teachers for each class, then laid down
rules to govern them. The feasting was continued from
day to day to August 24th. On Sunday, the 25th, I
preached from the second chapter of the Acts of the Apos-
tles. At the close of the meeting three persons presented
themselves for baptism, and we attended to the ordinance.
One of those baptized was Mahia, who, forty years later,
presided over the entire mission, being, at the latter time,
totally blind. Besides the three mentioned, sixteen others
were baptized, and all of them confirmed.

On the 26th, the school was continued in good order.
That day the news came that the Catholic priest had taken
charge of our meeting house at Temarari, although the
house was built and owned by the Latter-day Saints. The
priest claimed the right to control it in the interest of his
church; and the Saints requested me to come and help them
regain possession of the house. With two of the natives, I
started on the 27th, quite a company, male and female,
following us. When we arrived a feast was prepared; tne
people gave us a perfect ovation. We held meeting that
evening, the 28th, and I preached from the twelfth chapter
of Luke.

At the close of the meeting the bell was rung for
school. In came the priest to take charge, but as he had
no right to the hour, and the people did not want him to
teach, but desired me to take charge, I told them that
^when they settled the dispute about the house, if it was

2IO LIFE OF A PIONEER.

desired by the whole people and their officers that I should
proceed, I would do so. They arranged to settle the matter
in a day or two.

On the 30th I received a letter from Elder T. W.
Whitaker, of Tahiti, and I wrote to the white Elders. The
same evening I had a call from two of the Catholic priests,
whose names were Tavara and Harara. Evidently they
were very much disturbed in their feelings, as the people
were still feasting with and showing every respect possible
to me, while they passed the priests by with a cold nod.

Sunday morning, August 31st, I preached on the attri-
butes of God. At the close of our meeting the priests rang
the bell and came marching in with their lamps and images,
demanding possession of the house. We told them we had
business matters to attend to, and were not ready to give
up the place. Nevertheless, they piled their things on the
table in front of me as I sat writing. They had as much
as two or three men could carry. They crowded their
things right into my way, so I asked what they meant by
such conduct, and who had invited them there before we got
through with our business. They replied that it was their
time for meeting, and demanded the house, claiming it was
a public building, and that they had a right to hold their
meetings in it, I said that it had been built and was owned
by the Mormon people, and that we did not propose to be
disturbed by the intruders until we had finished our busi-
ness. At that they flew into a rage and threatened us with
the law, as they had done before, but finally they cooled
down, carried their things out, and waited until we were
through and had left. Then they held their services. I do
not think they had over six persons in their congregation.
They dispersed quietly, and at 10 o'clock a. m. we held
meeting again. I preached on faith and baptism. One
hundred and thirty people attended our meeting. In the
evening I baptized and confirmed twenty-five persons.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 211

On Monday, September ist, I took up, school by
request of the people and their peace officers. On the 4th
we had thirty students. On the 5th, two native Elders
went with me to Tuuhora. We received a call from a
priest; also held a prayer meeting, but few people attended
it. On Sunday we held three meetings, administered the
sacrament, baptized nineteen souls, and confirmed them. On
Monday, the 8th, we organized a school with fifty students,
and with the peace officers selected a teacher for each
class. The Catholic priest called on me and forbade me
changing his hours of school. As I had not attempted
to interfere with him or his schools, I came to the conclu-
sion that he was seeking an occasion against me under the
law, as they had threatened me with before. I knew they
were jealous, for where I stopped the people would throng
around me and the priests were left alone.

When the older people had gone through some morn-
ing exercises that day, desiring on my part to prevent
further trouble with the priest, I sent him word that as
soon as we got through with the younger classes he could
occupy the building, but not before, as he had threatened
to do. Just as the messenger returned, the priest rang the
bell most spitefully, and then came rushing into the school
room, his eyes flashing angrily. Our school was greatly
disturbed. I advanced, and asked him civilly if he wished
to attend our school. He said yes, evidently misunder-
standing me. I pointed him to a seat, saying we were
much pleased to have our school increase, and would he
please give me his name. I must confess that I felt a little
mischievous, and to retaliate slightly for their constant
meddling in our affairs. He saw the point, flew into a rage,
and sent for the landholders of the place to have me put
out of the house. The landholders came, and told him
they did not wish to have me disturbed, as they had sent
for me to come and take up a school; that the people pre-

212 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

f erred me to him; that he was the one who had made the
disturbance, not me, and that he must give way and cease
his interference.

Not satisfied with that decision, the priest sent for the
governor and chief men of the town, who came, and with
them a large crowd of citizens. When the governor had
heard both sides, he confirmed the decision of the land-
holders, and called for a vote of the people to say which
of us should teach school. The vote was unanimous
against the priest. Then the governor told him that as the
people did not want him he must leave the house at once,
and not disturb me or my school any more, for none of the
people had any use for him, as he had witnessed; they had
all voted against him, and all wanted Iatobo.

At this, the priest took up his books and slates, and
after accusing me of everything that was mean and low,
and calling the Mormon people the vilest names, he with-
drew. Later, he wrote a letter to Governor Bonard, of
Tahiti, and circulated it for signatures. We learned after-
wards that he got thirty signers. I believe that eleven
were French traders, and the other nineteen were natives
whom the traders had in their employment. We also
learned, at the cost of inquiry, that the priest's letter con-
tained the charges upon which I was subsequently arrested.
But at that time we continued our school in peace.

On September 12th I was feasted in royal style by
non-members of the Church. They called on one of the
native Elders to deliver the address, which he did in a most
eloquent manner. I responded in the usual way, and ac-
cepted their kind offering. The cook disposed of the spread
to the great satisfaction of the wrhole assembly, on such
occasions all present being directly interested in the distri-
bution of the eatable?.

About this time the writer had a remarkable dream.
He dreamed that God appeared, and told him to go to a

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 21^

field of his earthly father's, and replant where the birds and
squirrels had destroyed the grain. Then his father ap-
peared and showed him where to begin the labor. When
he had been furnished with seed and a hoe, he went to
work, and the replanting was soon done. Then he was
shown a field of wheat that, in the spring of the year, was
about eight inches high. The ground was quite wet, and
the grain was growing nicely. While he was gazing on
the bright prospects, a herd of cattle came in, breaking
down the fence. They seemed to trample everything they
came to. Then he heard a voice say, "Drive them out;'r
and as he attempted to do so, a fiery red bull made a charge
toward him so that it seemed impossible for him to escape
being gored to death; but as the animal lowered its head
to make the deadly thrust, the writer seized it by both
horns and bore its head to the earth. The animal was
coming with such force that it turned a somersault, both
horns being sunk to the head in the earth, and the bull's
neck being broken. Then a black and white bull, very
peculiarly marked, came up in the same fierce manner,
only to meet with a similar fate. At that the herd cleared
the field, but not until much damage had been done.

When he awoke, the writer felt that there was more
trouble ahead for him, but he did not know from what
source it would come. Of the priests who had given so
much annoyance, one had fiery red hair, and another was
white and dark spotted, or freckle-faced.

214 L.IFE OF A PIONEER.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

GO TO TEMARAIA— MIRACULOUS HEALINGS-CHILD ASSAILED BY AN EVIL
SPIRIT— STRANGE OCCURRENCE-GIFT OF SEA BISCUITS— PERFORM
A SURGICAL OPERATION— HAMMERING OUT TEETH— THE WRITER
AS A SURGEON AND DENTIST— ROUGHS DISTURB A MEETING—
THEY ARE STRICKEN WITH DEATH— FATAL SICKNESS AMONG THE
PEOPLE-LOWER CLASSES OF THE NATIVES AT A FEAST— THEIR
REVERENCE FOR RELIGIOUS SERVICES AND PREACHERS— TWO
PARTIES OF NATIVES IN BATTLE ARRAY— FIGHTING AVERTED BY
THE WRITER ADDRESSING THE CONTENDING FACTIONS IN FAVOR
OF PEACE— WARS AMONG THE NATIVES-SOME OF THEIR PRAC-
TICES-GATHERING AND KEEPING HUMAN HEADS-CAUSES OF
CANNIBALISM— CONVERSATION WITH ONE WHO HAD BEEN A CAN-
NIBAL—FLAVOR OF NATIVE AND WHITE MEN'S FLESH COMPARED
—THE TASTIEST PART OF THE HUMAN BODY.

ON September 19th, Nihiru, a native brother, came
with his canoe and gave the writer a free passage to
a village on the east end of the island, called Tematahoa.
We arrived in the evening and found a great deal of sick-
ness among the people. Just at dark on the 20th, a brother
named Pasai came from Temaraia with a sick man to have
him anointed and administered to. I attended to that and
he was healed.

On the 21st, Sunday, I preached on the signs, gifts of
healing, etc. There were about two hundred and fifty
persons in the congregation. In the evening I baptized and
confirmed eighteen persons. Monday morning I opened
school with twenty-eight pupils; next day there were forty-
one.

On the following day, September 24th, a man and his
wife came to me with a child three and a half months old.
They said that a short time before their child had been
taken sick in the night, and they had talked to each other

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 215

of having it anointed. At this, the child spoke, and stated
in plain words, like an adult, that it would not be anointed.
It said many words as plainly as any person could do.
From that time it grew worse to the day it was brought to
me to be administered to. The parents said they did not
belong to the Church, but desired to be baptized, for they
believed the Gospel as the Mormon Elders taught it. Their
names were Tauahi and Taui. We baptized them and one
other person, then administered to the child, which lay limp
as if dead. We could not tell whether it wa§ dead or alive.
However, when we took our hands off its head, it opened
its eyes and looked as if nothing was the matter. Then it
nursed as any healthy child might. There were many peo-
ple gathered there, and all were astonished at what had
taken place. Finally the babe went to sleep as if nothing
had been wrong with it, and the whole company rejoiced
at the great change that had come. They said that truly
it was the Almighty who had healed the child through His
servant.

I turned and gave my attention to some writing that
was necessary, and the crowd became unusually quiet. In
a few minutes a strong rushing or movement among the
people attracted my attention, and as I turned to face the
people there appeared to be an ashy paleness over the faces
of the whole assembly. All seemed terrified and speechless.
At that moment an aged couple, a man and his wife, en-
tered the door and went straightway to where the sleeping
infant lay. They bowed down over it and kissed it, and
then went through some ancient heathen ceremony that I
could not understand. Then they walked direct to their
canoes and sailed across the lake to wrhere they had come
from. From that moment the relatives of the child began
to mourn and say that it would die; and sure enough, in-
side of an hour it was a corpse. The parents were asked
why they had lost faith and given up the child. They said

2 1 6 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

the old people who had kissed the babe had power with-
evil spirits, and had afflicted it in the first place; that their
power had been broken by the Priesthood, and they could
not reunite it with the babe until they could come and touch
it; and when they had done that, the parents and all con-
cerned lost faith, and could not resist the influence that
came with the old pair of witches, as we think they would
be called by some civilized people. I must confess it was a
strange thing to me. I had never before witnessed any-
thing so strange.

It was on the 27th of September that the child died.
On the same day a Scotchman came and brought me a few
sea biscuits. I was very thankful to him for the favor, for
bread was such a rarity in that part of the country as to
give a man some satisfaction in seeing it, even though he
might not have the pleasure of eating it. Thanks to the
benevolent Scotchman. I regret that I have forgotten his
name. The next day I preached on the resurrection of the
dead, and baptized and confirmed eighteen persons into the
Church.

Before leaving my reminiscences of this place, I will
narrate two incidents of some note to me. In one, we were
called to see a man who had been confined to his room the
greater part of a year with a swelling in his hip and thigh.
On examination it was found that his whole hip and thigh
were filled with a thick and very noxious pus. No one
in the village dared to lance it, but when I told him his
condition he insisted that I should cut it whether it killed or
cured. I hesitated to comply with his wish until all his im-
mediate relatives had been consulted, and had given their
assent. Otherwise, the superstition of the people was so
great that if in the operation the patient succumbed the
operator would have the gravest responsibility to meet.
But when all concerned had given sanction, and each had
assumed his or her responsibility, I performed the operation

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 217

most successfully, the wound discharging at least six pints
of the most offensive matter, and the patient being greatly
relieved from his terrible suffering. The operation was
performed with a penknife, for in that country at that time
the only surgical instrument ever used for cutting was a
shark's tooth or a scale from a broken bottle.

In this case the operation seemed to the people very
little less than a miracle. The news thereof spread all
over the island, insomuch that the operator acquired much
practice in similar cases, such as swollen jaws, boils, car-
buncles, etc., and though he performed many operations,
he never received one cent as pay. If the people had
toothache, he was called on and performed the operation of
extraction, in some instances using a rusty nail, or any kind
of an old iron, in place of a hammer or mallet, to punch the
tooth out. His best dentist tool was his rifle bullet mold,
using both ends for forceps. He never failed to give satis-
faction, for there were neither dentists nor surgeons in that
part of the world.

The other incident, and a very singular one, which
occurred at that place was this: On one occasion seven
very rough characters came into our sacrament meeting.
Some of them were said to be from an adjacent island.
They came, took seats at the back of the hall, and behaved
very rudely, making loud remarks and threats about the
young ladies of the choir. When they partook of the
sacrament they said that when the meeting was out they
would administer ihe sacrament in a very different manner
to that in which the Mormons did it. Sure enough, at the
close of the meeting they pushed along through the con-
gregation till they came to the youngladies, and made wicked
propositions to them, which were very quickly spurned.
Then they passed on, still making their boasts of what they
would do at nightfall. But they failed in carrying out their
threats, for in a very short time three of them were stricken

14

2l8 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

down with violent cramps, so terrible that all three were
corpses before the next morning. The other four had
strong symptoms of the same complaint, and inside of a
week they were dead also. The people said it was the
power of evil spirits that had been sent to destroy them,
that they might not be permitted to carry out their wicked
purposes. The whole people were so excited that they
shot off guns, blew horns, built large fires, prayed and
shouted in wild confusion, to drive away the evil spirits;
and many people were smitten with sickness and some
died.

On the 29th of September we sailed for Putuhara.
The wind blew a gale, and we had a fearful passage, but
succeeded in reaching our destination in safety, and in time
for evening meeting, when we preached to a large congre-
gation. October 1st, I baptized and confirmed three per-
sons. On the same day the roughest people of the island
assembled to feast and dance. It seemed that to quarrel
and fight was the principal number on their program, and
they appeared to indulge in everything that was wicked.
They killed pigs, chickens and dogs, roasted all alike, and
ate them with great relish. They also ran through the
streets with torchlights and firebrands, and the confusion
was so great and turbulent that it looked more like an
actual battle of savages than a dance. All ages participated,
from the child of tender years up to the old grayheaded
man and woman, all of them two-thirds naked, and some
of the children entirely nude.

I had seen Indians in their warpaint and dances, but
this excelled in confused savage deeds anything I ever be-
held before. It seemed that they never knew what order
meant. Yet, strange to say, at the first tap of the church
bell they reminded me of a turkey gobbler which, when in
full strut, seeing a dog run at him, drops his feathers so sud-
denly that he does not look like the same bird. So it was

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 2IQ

with that savage-looking lot. At the first tap of the bell
they became as silent as if dead, then retreated to their
hiding places, and not another yell was heard from any of
them, so great was their reverence for religious services.
At one time, though, it did seem that they could not be
silenced short of bloodshed,' for there were two opposing
parties mixed up together.

When the confusion was straightened out and peace
apparently restored, the parties separated, only to come
together again later, with more roast pigs, chickens and
dogs. Then they ate of their feast until full, when some
unwise person of one party made an insulting remark about
the other part}'. Quickly the participants in the feast
formed for battle, armed with clubs and stones. At that
moment one man from each party ran for the ormatua
(missionary). I went out and stepped up on to a large
chest, at the same time calling aloud for peace. Strange as
it may seem, although their clubs and stones were raised to
strike fatal blows, and the women and children were shriek-
ing and crying, the moment the natives recognized me
among them they dropped their ugly weapons and listened,
and the spokesman of each party came forward to plead
his particular case. I caught the spirit of the situation and
addressed them briefly on the subject of peace, order and
good will to all, and exhorted them to leave their griev-
ances to two or more of their cooler and wiser men to set-
tle. This they agreed to do; then they joined forces and
made an attack on the writer, not for blood, but of love and
respect. Men and women seized on to him, embracing him
and shaking his hands until he was nearly smothered and
almost borne to the ground.

I would not have it understood that this great rever-
ence and respect was shown to me for any superiority that
I would claim; but it was a man's calling as a minister of
the Gospel which they held sacred before the Lord. So

2 20 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

long as he did not betray their confidence, the minister's
influence was almost unbounded, and with all their faults
the natives had many most estimable qualities.

From this great excitement, and the accounts that he
had heard from time to time, the writer was led to inquire in-
to the manner of warfare, the traditions and the superstitions,
as also into the causes for and cannibalism of the islanders.
Their wars usually had an origin in very trivial causes, such
as family quarrels, thefts, politics and disputes over land or
over fishing waters. At one time the islands had a dense
population, and the strong would go on the warpath for con-
quest, one village or island being pitted against another.
Their ariis (kings), as they call them — I think it would be
more proper to designate them as chiefs, as the Indians do
— attain power through brave and heroic acts, and the
great havoc they make among their adversaries. Their
weapons consisted chiefly of spears made from fish bone and
hard wood, stones and slings, clubs, and a rudely fashioned
glove made by winding bark and shark's teeth together in
such a way as to have the teeth stand out thickly on the
inside of the hand. With this latter weapon they would
grapple with and tear out each other's entrails. They had
rude drums and some kind of whistles for musical instru-
ments.

In war, the two parties approach each other, danc-
ing, boasting and threatening, until within a few feet of each
other, when they leap at and onto one another in a hand-
to-hand conflict, fighting as wild beasts, to a finish. Their
mothers, sisters, daughters and aunts prepare themselves
with strong baskets made from the cocoanut leaf, and swing
these on their backs; then (each with a sharp rock or a
seashell in her hand) they enter the battlefield in rear of
their nearest male relative. When the latter has dispatched
his man or disabled him so that the women can finish him,
he engages another adversary, while the woman beheads

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 221

his victim, puts the head into her basket, swings it on her
back, and continues to follow her male relative to victory
or death.

When a war is over, and the victorious party returns
home, each family has a place for the captured heads,
where they are put in rows, being set some six or eight
inches below the surface of the ground, and easy of access.
This was done so that when any question arose as to the
bravest family, or the member of a family to take the first
place as dictator or chief, the mori, or place of skulls may
be visited and a tally made, when the one with the highest
number of skulls or heads is given the coveted position. In
these contests they also count the heads taken by their an-
cestors, as far back as they can find them, no matter how
many generations they cover. Thus the familv with the
most skulls gets the place sought, which is generally that
of chief or king.

When a battle is ended, the victors pass over the
ground, often bleeding from their wounds, and starved and
well nigh exhausted from being without food. The island-
ers have a tradition that whatever gives them pain they
should eat. So if they are wounded by a sharp stone
which by any means has fastened itself into a man's flesh,
or by a sliver, they extract and eat it, saying, "You are my
enemy, you never shall hurt me more." Thus they seem
to satisfy the vicious spirit of revenge. This strange pro-
ceeding may have had something to do with the origin of
cannibalism. Still, I am rather inclined to think it had its
beginning in starvation, and to that was added the spirit of
revenge. Thus the appetite was cultivated until, with very
slight pretext, human life became sacrificed to a depraved
and vicious appetite. These practices and others seemed
to be justified in their savage minds, insomuch that they
did not scruple in gathering up the slain and feeding upon
them.

222 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

His curiosity having been awakened in searching into
heathen life, the writer made inquiries at the most authentic
sources of information for further light on this custom. In
one case he found an old lady who was the last of the fifth
generation back. Her intellect seemed bright, although
she could not open her eyes except with her fingers. When
questioned in regard to cannibalism, she lifted her eyelids
and said, "I have followed my fathers, brothers, husband
and sons in battle, and we ate our victims as we would eat
pork or fish." When asked if she had eaten white man's
flesh, she replied, "Yes; we captured some white men on
a small schooner and ate them." The next inquiry was
whether there was any difference in the taste of the white
man's and of the native's flesh. "Yes," said she; "the
white man's flesh is hard, tough and salty, while the flesh
of the native is sweet and tender." Then came the ques-
tion as to what part of the human body was preferable to
eat. She said the heel and the hand of a fourteen year-
old girl were the sweetest morsels of flesh she ever ate.
Being asked if she did not have feelings of remorse when
they had committed actions like these, her answer was:
"Not a bit, it was in our days of heathendom; but now,
since the Gospel has come to us, we have no desire for
anything of that kind, though formerly we took pleasure in
our practices, for our minds were very dark."

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 223

CHAPTER XXIX.

HOLD CONFERENCE IN PUTUHARA— INSTRUCTIONS TO THE SAINTS-
GO TO OTAPIPI -OPPOSITION AT TEMARAIA— OFFICIALS BRIBED
BY CATHOLIC PRIESTS — ARRIVAL OF A FRENCH WARSHIP —
THE WRITER IS ARRESTED WHILE EXPOUNDING THE SCRIP-
TURES TO THE NATIVES — CAUSE OF ARREST IS FALSE AC-
CUSATION BY CATHOLIC PRIESTS — I PLEAD NOT GUILTY —
ORDERED TAKEN TO TAHITI — PAINFUL PRISON EXPERIENCE
—CANNIBALS IN CUSTODY —START FOR THE SHIP— SYMPATHY
OF THE NATIVES — HURRIED INTO THE SHIP'S BOAT — IN A
SCHOOL OF WHALES— A FRIGHTENED BOAT LOAD— ON BOARD
THE WARSHIP— UNCOMFORTABLE QUARTERS — QUESTIONABLE
FRENCH COURTESY— AMONG COCKROACHES, FILTH, AND INCON-
VENIENCES—SOFT SIDE OF A PLANK FOR A BED.

LEAVING the revolting subject of cannibalism. I will
return to our missionary labors. Peace and quiet hav-
ing been restored, the people assembled in Putuhara on
October 5th for conference, Elder James S. Brown presid-
ing. After reports of the various branches had been made,
as presiding Elder I reported the condition of the Church
generally on the island, made a few opening remarks, and
called on the different Elders to speak. One after another
these referred to themselves and the people generally hav-
ing a desire for me to write home to the Church authorities,
to get a missionary to each village. All spoke of their love
for the Gospel, and their wish to have it preached on all the
adjacent islands. There was such enthusiasm among the
people that it seemed unwise to hold a lengthy conference.
The zeal of the people there was such that it well nigh
drove them into a frenzy; so after the business of the con-
ference had been done, I addressed them on the object of
a house of worship, that it was a place in which to worship
the true and living God, and not a dancehouse or a place

224 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

to have lawsuits, quarreling, righting, and worshiping of
idols in, as they had been doing. A motion was made and
carried that our building be kept exclusively for a house of
worship. Thus everything else was forbidden by the land-
holders. At the close of the conference eight persons were
baptized and confirmed.

The schools of the different villages met on October
6th, to read and spell in friendly contest. October 7th, the
school in Putuhara had increased to one hundred pupils.
That day the rougher element of the place assembled again
in their wild dancing; they sold their jewelry for fat dogs
and pigs. On the nth, the non-Mormon women of the
place prepared a great feast for us, and turned it over with
pride, saying, "Here is a token of our love for you, and we
desire you to accept it and remain in our town and teach us
of the Lord."

We preached on Sunday, the 12th, and on that day
also baptized and confirmed five persons. Next day, school
was opened with one hundred pupils. A great deal of sick-
ness was reported in the town. On the 14th, school, was
continued in good order, and we departed in a small canoe
for Otapipi, where we found the people pleased to see us.
The school there was intact. Next day I wrote to Elder
Alviras Hanks that I had heard of his having been cast away
on another island.

Sunday, October 19th, I preached, and baptized two
persons. On the 24th I went to Temaraia, where I met with
more opposition from the Catholic priest, with regard to
school matters, and learned that he had bribed Governor
Telidha, also Parai, the mouthpiece of the town, as he was
called. Having them for his backing, the priest was very
bold and defiant, and no doubt thought that by keeping up
an excitement the Catholics would gain some support for the
foul and false charges which he had made against me. By
the means I have named, the priest got a decision against

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 2 25

us, and for the first time we were compelled to yield, but
much against the people's desires. Still, all settled down
from high excitement to peace and quiet, till October 28th,
when the French frigate Durance made its appearance
northwest of the island.

The warship had on board the governor's aide de camp,
who landed at Tuuhora with his guards. On the 29th he
crossed the lagoon to Temaraia, where we were. At 8 p.m.,
while I was engaged in expounding the scriptures to a few
of the natives, in came a French gen d' arme and a native
officer. They presented me with a warrant, which, being
in the French language, I could not read. The officers
stood for a minute or so, when I gave them to understand
that I was unable to decipher the document. Thereupon
the native officer said that it meant that I was to appear be-
fore the governor's aide de camp, down at the stockade, at
9 o'clock, and if I did not come willingly, they had orders
to drag me there like a dog. They being armed with swords
and pistols, I thought it wisest to go willingly, especially as
there was no chance to do otherwise. The officers were
, quite haughty, yet somewhat nervous, for they had
been told that I was prepared to make a strong resistance.
Of course, I accompanied them readily and without a word,
and was soon ushered into the august presence of the gov-
ernor's aide. I found him seated in a small room, in which
were four or five other officers and a few soldiers armed
with muskets and cutlasses. When I entered, the interpre-
ter arose, read a long list of charges, and asked for my
plea. I answered not guilty to each accusation.

It will be remembered by the reader that when I first
landed on the island 1 sketched, at the request of some of
the natives, a rough outline of the United States, pointing
out my birthplace, also Salt Lake City, and where gold
had been discovered in California. From that time the

226 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Catholic priests had conspired to entrap me. to break my
influence, and to close my schools.

The charges against me began, as near as I now re-
member them, and with memory refreshed from brief notes
taken at the time, by an assertion that I had subverted the laws
of the French protectorate; had interfered with govern-
ment schools; had hoisted the American flag; had enrolled
some three thousand men for the American government, to
be controlled by the Mormon Church; had armed the men;
was a civil engineer of no mean ability; had ordered the
people to demolish some of the towns, and rebuild with bet-
ter fortifications; that my walk and general movements in-
dicated military ability, and undoubtedly I had been brought
up at a military school in the United States; that I had
mapped out plans of defense; had great power with the
native people, and was capable of doing much mischief in
the country. These, and many other charges of a frivol-
ous nature, were in the list, all of them without the slightest
foundation in fact, except that I had much influence with
the people.

I stated that I proposed to prove myself innocent of
every one of the accusations made. To this the officer
made answer that they had the most positive proof to estab-
lish the charges, which were very serious. He gave me
two hours to settle my business, and see friends, when I
would have to return to the stockade and stay where the
governor's aide thought proper. The next day I was to be
taken on board the man-of-war, and go as a prisoner to
Tahiti, for trial.

Upon receiving this information, I claimed the right to
be tried where I was accused of having committed the of-
fense, and where I had the witnesses in my behalf. "No;"
said the officer, "your crime is too great to be tried before
any less authority than the governor." I asked to have wit-
nesses summoned, and the officer inquired if I had any way

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF |AMES S. BROWN. 227

of taking them to Tahiti. He knew, of course, that I was
helpless in that regard, and being so answered, told his men
to take me in charge. Accordingly, they marched me to
where the arrest had been made.

I gathered up some of my effects, bade goodbye to my
friends, and returned to the stockade. There I was ordered
to a seat under an open shed till daylight, being guarded by
two lustful police, who took unwarranted liberty with some
lewd females, behaving most shamefully in the prisoner's
presence. My friends brought bedding for me and at-
tempted to spread it, but were rudely driven away by the
guards, who took turns at pacing in front of me, while
the other interested himself with the females spoken of,
who were void of shame.

That night I was mortified and disgusted as I never
had been before with peace officers. At last the long night
wore past, and dawn appeared. Then close to my right,
in a stockade, I saw about fifteen native cannibals, who could
barely hide their nakedness. They had been captured by
French soldiers on some island in the north, and were ac-
cused of killing, upon different occasions, the white crews
of three small schooners. They were also charged with
eating their victims, as well as robbing and scuttling the
schooners.

I took my last glance at those fierce-looking monsters
just at sunrise on October 30th, when I was called before
the aide de camp to sign my name four times in English,
and four times in the Tahitian language. Then I was
ordered into a filthy old boat that was used to collect oil.
The boat's crew were rough and dirty, and scoffed and
jeered at me and otherwise made the sail across the lagoon
to Tuuhora as disagreeable as they could.

When we landed at Tuuhora it was among about one
hundred and fifty French marines. They, too, must jeer,
and satisfy their curiosity by gathering around and imperti-

228 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

nently staring me in the face, jabbering together and laugh-
ing, while the natives met me with sympathy expressed in
their countenances. Two soldiers kept close to me, how-
ever, and did not allow much opportunity for conversation
with anyone. I was served with a bowl of fish broth and
a small piece of bread, and when this was eaten I was
ordered to the landing, to one of the boats from the war-
ship. By this time there were probably five hundred native
people gathered. 1'hese followed to the boat, declaring
that where their missionary went they would go, too, and
saying, "It is the Catholic priests who have done tnis, with
their lies."

The news of the arrest had been heralded during the
night to every village, and boats and canoes were coming
in, laden with sympathizing friends, not only Church mem-
bers, but full as many that did not belong to the Church.
They said, "E mea hama teie" (a shameful thing, this).
The excitement became so general that the guard was in-
creased to about twenty armed men, and the prisoner was
urged to hurry into the boat. As the water was from shoe-
top to knee-deep between the shore and the boat, I at-
tempted to take off my shoes and turn my pants up, but I
was forbidden to stop, and was crowded into the vessel.
When I reached it, it was full of sympathizing men, women
and children, weeping and accusing the Catholic priests.
Fully five hundred people lined the shore, some with rolls
of bedding, while others were laden down with baskets of
cocoanuts.

When the guards arrived with their prisoner, the boat
was ordered cleared, and as the native people were rather
slow to obey the command, the soldiers pricked them with
their cutlasses and bayonets. I was urged into the boat,
which was soon manned, and the boatmen soon pulled from
the shore, while many scores of people wept aloud, shriek-
ing out my native name, "Iatobo, Iatobo; no te Catholic

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 22Q

te i a ne peapea" (James, James, of the Catholics this
trouble). They waved handkerchiefs as long as we could
see them.

As the boat was going out to the ship, it ran into what
seemed to us to be hundreds or even thousands of whales.
For a while the sea seemed to be black with them. At the
same time the boatmen took in their oars and became pale
and still as death, lest the monsters should take fright and
knock us into eternity and the boat into splinters. The
oarsmen were better aware of the danger than I was, and
were ashy pale. Indeed, it may have been the same with
me for aught I know, for I did not see my own face as I
saw theirs. But 1 had been where cattle stampeded, where
the wild buffalo was rampant, or wild mustangs were charg-
ing by thousands on the plains by night and by day; had been
surrounded by packs of fierce and hungry wolves; had been
in the brush when grizzly bear were thick around, or when
rattlesnake and deadly viper hissed in my ears; and I had
been chased by savage Indians; still I do not remember a
time when I felt that every hair on my head was trying to
get on end more than I did for a few moments as these
great sea monsters glided past so near that we could almost
put our hands on their long, black backs, while they shot
by swiftly, spouting the briny spray almost in our faces.
The thought of the loss of the boat did not concern me so
much as it did to think how easy it was for a whale, at one
stroke of its monster tail, to make of us convenient shark's
food. While in this truly great peril, minutes seemed hours
to us, and when it passed we breathed freely again, and
soon gained the great warship that was lying off shore,
for there was no harbor or anchorage at that island.

I was next required to try a new experiment, to me,
that of climbing a rope ladder up the side of a ship as the
latter rolled and pitched in the waves. After a struggle I
succeeded in reaching the deck in safety, there to be sur-

23O LIFE OF A PIONEER.

rounded by the marines as though I had been a wild beast.
When their curiosity had been satisfied, I was ordered
down on to what was called Swaltses' battery, the gun
deck. There I found that as I walked my head came in
uncomfortable contact with the beams of the upper deck,
and at each one I had to duck my head. This greatly
amused the marines, and they got a mopstick, a broomstick,
or any kind of a stick. Some would press the sticks on
the sides of their noses, while others held theirs back
of them, poking their sticks up so as to hit the beams
above. Then they would form into a squad and
march by and duck heads with me, while some were
giving commands which I supposed meant, "Left, duck,
left duck" — at any rate, that was the action. Then they
would shout and laugh.

Soon meal time came, and I was conducted into the
hold of the ship, and there assigned to a small, filthy room.
There was an old chair in it, and a bunk without bedding.
The room swarmed with cockroaches, which seemed to be
thicker than flies. I was served with a bowl of fish broth,
and one small loaf of bread and a bottle of wine,f or the day's
rations. Then an officer called me to follow him to the
upper deck and to the bow of the ship, where he made me
understand, by unmistakable motions, that I was to use the
chains for a water closet. In disgust I remembered that I
was among Frenchmen, the most stylish, the proudest, and
the most fashionable people in the world. I was an Ameri-
can, "honored" with two uniformed and armed French at-
tendants, who never left me alone only when I was in my
room, following me everywhere, allowing none to obstruct
my path, and even being careful to keep me from falling out
through the portholes, as, when I leaned over a big gun to
look out upon the deep, they would take me by the arm,
lead me away, and show me the big hole in the deck, and
my room.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 231

By this time the writer began to understand French
courtesy, under some conditions, and to realize his own
situation. He asked himself what the outcome would be,
he reviewed every action performed on the island of Anaa,
and could not see wherein he had trenched upon anybody's
rights or done anything against the law. He failed to
discover one intentional or other wrong; so he felt to trust
in the Lord, and made himself as contented as possible,
though he found the boards in the berth as hard as Ameri-
can boards, notwithstanding that they were French
lumber.

CHAPTER XXX.

VOYAGE TO PAPEETE— IN A TAHITIAN DUNGEON— CRUEL TREATMENT-
WRITE TO FRIENDS— KINDNESS OP '1 HE AMERICAN HOTEL KEEPER
—BROUGHT BEFORE THE GOVERNOR— FALSE CHARGES READ,
AND PLEA OF NOT GUILTY ENTERED— PERJURED TESTIMONY
AGAINST ME— FORBIDDEN TO LOOK AT, OR EVEN CROSS-EXAMINE
WITNESSES— SECRECY OF THE ALLEGED TRIAL— DEMAND MY
RIGHTS AS AN AMERICAN CITIZEN— CONFUSION OF THE GOV-
ERNOR—RETURNED TO MY CELL— AMERICAN CONSUL TAKES UP
MY CASE— GIVES BONDS THAT I WILL LEAVE THE PROTECTORATE
-ELDERS AND FRIENDS CALL ON ME— MY VISITORS ALLOWED TO
SAY BUT LITTLE, AND SOMETIMES EXCLUDED— DECISION OF THE
GOVERNOR THAT I MUST LEAVE THE SOCIETY ISLANDS— FAIR
TRIAL REFUSED ME— LE ITER FROM THE AMERICAN CONSUL-
TAKEN TO THE CONSUL'S OFFICE— ADVISED TO LEAVE— ELDERS
DECIDE THAT I SHOULD GO OUTSIDE OF THE FRENCH PROTEC-
TORATE—SET SAIL FROM PAPEETE.

ON November 3rd. 185 1, we set sail for Tahiti, and on
the 6th made the port of Papeete, having had a
rough voyage. When the ship anchored, a police boat
came alongside, and the prisoner was ordered to try his
skill at climbing down the rope ladder. He promptly

232 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

obeved orders, and soon found himself locked up in a
cobblestone dungeon, six by eight feet, quite damp, and so '
dark that not a ray of light penetrated it anywhere. For
his bed he had a board dressed out like a washboard. He
had a good mattress and pillows and blankets of his own,
but they were locked up in an adjoining room and he was
denied the use of them. What the object was he never
learned, unless it was done to punish him. He remained
in that condition fourteen hours out of the twenty-four, and
was fed on bread and water that was very filthy. The
water was kept in a small keg in a corner of his cell, and
was thick with a green, moss-like substance. In an oppo-
site corner was a different kind of French water closet to
that he had on shipboard — a keg which was never emptied
during the prisoner's stay there. Unlike the water keg, it
was replenished often. As to the result of such conditions
in that hot climate, I leave it to the reader to conjecture;
for I had enough of it without dwelling further on the
subject.

On November 7th I wrote letters to Elders Thomas
Whitaker and Julian Moses, the brethren who had been
assigned to labor on Tahiti. On the 8th, one Mr. Lampher,
proprietor of the American hotel in Papeete, sent me a
prime dinner. It was received with thanks, and was duly
appreciated.

On the 10th I was called out by the turnkey; immedi-
ately an armed soldier took position on either side of me,
while a sergeant stepped directly in front, then moved three
steps in advance, and gave the command to forward march.
In this order we passed two lines of sentinels and went to
the governor's mansion, where we met another officer, who
commanded a halt, and I was directed to be seated for
thirty minutes. Then I was called into the governor's
office, where I was confronted by his excellency and seven
officers. They were in full uniform and had sidearms.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 233

Each had in his hands what appeared to be notes. I was
at once ordered to be seated, and the very profligate son of
a Protestant professor acted as interpreter, read the long
list of charges spoken of, and asked for my plea thereto.
I answered not guilty.

Then the trial began. They placed on the witness
stand a native named Tania, who had been admitted re-
cently to the Catholic church. He had been posted in
what he should say, but seemingly had some pangs of con-
science, for when he stood up he turned his eyes toward
me, then to the court, and back to me, and answered the
questions in a hesitating way, his confusion being so great
that the governer, through the interpreter, ordered me not
to look at the witness, as he said my countenance was so
fierce and vivid as to baffle the most substantial witness. I
was not permitted to ask a question, not even to cross-ex-
amine the witness.

The next testimony came from a man who had been
brought to Papeete a prisoner, but who had been dis-
charged without the formality of a hearing, evidently that
they might have him for a witness against me. Both he
and the preceding witness were put on the stand without
being sworn. Not a single spectator was permitted to be
present, so I concluded that if it was a court at all that was
trying me it was a military court martial.

When I saw how onesidedly things were going, I arose
and asked the court what right it had to try me with closed
doors, not even allowing me the opportunity to defend
myself. I told them I was an American citizen, and claimed
my rights as such under existing treaties and international
laws. I quoted law that I had never read or heard men-
tioned, for it was given to me of the Lord in the hour that
I had need. I can never forget the expression on the faces
of those officers. Not one of them would look me in the
eye. As I spoke, every face was turned downward. At

15

234 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

the conclusion of my remarks I was marched back to the
filthy cell, without another word being said.

About this time Mr. W. H. Kelly, the American con-
sul, called on the governor, and on making inquiries about
me and my alleged crime and arrest, was told that I was a
very dangerous man, a man learned in treaties and inter-
national laws. "Why," said the" governor to Mr. Kelly,
"he can quote more of them than my officers, and he has
great power and influence with the native people. He is
undoubtedly a military man of no mean ability. For these
reasons he cannot be permitted to take up his residence as
a minister under the French protectorate." I learned the
foregoing from Mr. W. H. Kelly, who told me that he had
to sign bonds to the amount of fifty thousand francs, and
that sum would be forfeited if I did not leave the protecto-
rate by the first vessel sailing from port, or if I was known
to preach another discourse under the French government.

That evening Elder T. Whitaker called at my cell with
two pies for me. We were allowed to speak but few
words to each other. When the prison door had been
locked again, I wrote to Elder B. F. Grouard, who, as I
learned from Brother Whitaker, had arrived in port. No-
vember nth, my old friend Pahe called with a basket of
fruit, which was admitted, but the giver was permitted to
say scarcely a word.

I had a call on the 12th from Elders S. A. Dunn and
Julian Moses. Their short visit gave me much satisfaction,
as they brought news from home. On the 13th Elder
Grouard and some other friends called with some food, but
they were not admitted, the food being passed in to me by
a murderer.

On November 14th I was called before the governor's
aide de camp, who said, "I suppose you have heard the
decision of the governor and his council?" I told him no.
He then said, "They have decided that you must leave the

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 235

protectorate by the first vessel sailing from port, or you will
be detained until you are willing to comply with that decis-
ion." I asked if they intended to send me away without
a fair trial. He said yes; that the governor had it in his
power to send out anyone that raised a disturbance in the
country. I asked him to show that I had raised a disturb-
ance. He said, "It does not need proof, for the Mormon
missionaries have caused the government a great deal of
trouble, and the decision is that you must go by the first
vessel leaving port, or remain in prison till you agree to do
so." With this, I was satisfied that there was no redress
for the wrong that was being done me.

I was then marched back to the cell, where I received
a letter from W. H. Kelly, the American consul. It read
as follows:

"Consulate of the United States, Tahiti,

November 14, 1851.
"Mr. James Brown :

"Dear Sir: — Having been informed, through the gov-
ernor of the protectorate, that you are a state prisoner in
Papeete, charged with the crime of rebellion and attempt-
ing to subvert the laws of the protectorate established on
the island of Anaa, I am bound to furnish the honorable
secretary of state of the United States with all charges and
punishments to which the citizens of the United States may
render themselves amenable, under the laws of the coun-
tries in which they may reside.

"You will therefore oblige me by furnishing me with
an unbiased and clear statement of the facts connected with
your arrest and imprisonment. I do not wish to know what
has been told to you, or of what you have heard from
others, but simply the truth of the whole transaction.

"This letter will be forwarded to his excellency, Gov-

236 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

ernor Bonard, who will, through the proper channel, have
it forwarded to you.

"I remain, sir, your obedient servant,
"W. H. Kelly,

"United States Consul."

Elder B. F. Grouard kindly came down and wrote my
reply to Mr. Kelly. This was on November 15th. The
same day I was called out into the yard, when a sergeant
and two soldiers took me in charge and marched me along
a back alley to the rear of the consul's office. Then the
sergeant stepped forward and notified Mr. Kelly that they
had brought their prisoner to him, and without further
ceremony the officers disappeared by the same alley by
which they came.

Mr. Kelly welcomed me to his office, and congratu-
lated me on regaining my liberty. Then he told me of his
visit to Governor Bonard, the conversation they had had,
and about his signing the bonds for my release. He said,
"Mr. Brown, the French authorities are afraid of you-
They say that you are a highly educated man, and that
you are capable of doing much mischief in the country.
Now you have your liberty in and about my office, but you
must not go off alone in any by-place, for the French are
a very excitable people, and they will watch every move
that you make, and would shoot you if they could find you
alone in the brush or where they could do it without being
detected. Now, I have got horses, and will accompany
you to any place you may wish to go, to visit your friends
or to settle up what business you may have to do. But
you must not be caught alone, for the French fear that you
could raise an army and cause much trouble. As your
friends are in town, you and they had better have a consul-
tation here in my office, and see what you can do."

Accordingly, the Elders came into the consul's officer

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 237

and together with him said the best thing they thought
could be done was that I should go on board the little
schooner Ravai, and that they get it ready for sea as
quickly as possible, so as to leave port before any other
vessel did, for if I did not go the fifty thousand francs would
be forfeited. The schooner was the vessel owned by the
Saints of Tubuoi, and commanded by Captain B. F.
Grouard; 'it was bound for a cruise among the Tuamotu
group of islands before going to the island of Raivavai,
four hundred miles southeast of Tahiti, and outside of the
protectorate. It was thought that we could make the
cruise intended, and then go on to Raivavai without any
danger of forfeiting the pledge. Conformably with this
conclusion, the vessel was got ready, and on the 17th we
sailed from Papeete.

2^8 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

CHAPTER XXXI.

LEAVING TAHITI UNDER THE ORDER OF BANISHMENT— SUPPLY OF PRO-
VISIONS EXHAUSTED— CAUGHT IN A CALM— SUFFERING FROM
LACK OF FOOD— REACH TUBUOI— GO ASHORE UPON INVITATION
OF THE QUEEN— SAIL FOR RAIVAVAI— MEET ELDER PRATT THERE
—LEFT ALONE ON THE ISLAND— SAVAGE CHARACTER OF THE
NATIVES— THE GOVERNOR A FRIEND— VISIT FROM HOUSE TO
HOUSE— PEOPLE GENERALLY UNWILLING TO RECEIVE THE GOS-
PEL-COUNCIL DECIDES THAT I MUST LEAVE THE ISLAND OR BE
KILLED— A TIME OF EXCITEMENT— STORM PASSES FOR AWHILE—
BAPTIZE TWENTY PERSONS-NOTED CHIEF AND THE HEIRESS TO
THE THRONE JOIN THE CHURCH— MORE BITTERNESS AND EX-
CITEMENT—TWO PARTIES OF NATIVES MEET TO ENGAGE IN BAT-
TLE—MANAGE TO RECONCILE THEM AND PREVENT BLOODSHED-
FURTHER THREATS AGAINST THE MORMONS— SOME CHURCH
MEMBERS FEEL TO RETALIATE, BUT ARE RESTRAINED— PASSEN-
GERS ARRIVE WITH FALSE AND SCANDALOUS STORIES ABOUT
THE MORMONS— PERSECUTION INCREASES— THE FEW SAINTS ON
THE ISLAND BECOME SORROWFUL AND DISCOURAGED— PROTEST-
ANT MINISTERS ADVISE EXPULSION OF THE SAINTS— RENEWAL
OF THE FAITH AND ZEAL OF THE CHURCH MEMBERS.

AS we were leaving the Tahitian harbor we encountered
a strong headwind, and beat our way against wind
and waves until our little schooner became somewhat dis-
abled. Provisions began to be scarce, and everything
seemed to be against us. Finally we changed our course,
heading for Tubuoi. When we got within about eighty
miles of that island, our food supply became exhausted;
we had not one mouthful on board, and were in a dead
calm for some time. Then a gentle breeze sprang up and
wafted us to port, where we arrived on November 29th.
Before this relief, however, we suffered considerably from
lack of food.

I supposed that I had to remain on board the schooner

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 239

until it was ready to sail for Raivavai; but when Pitamai
Vehene, the queen, heard that I had been banished she
came off in her own canoe and invited me to go ashore
with her, saying, "This is my island, and the French have
no right here. I will be responsible for all the trouble that
may arise." As the brethren and general authorities of the
island thought it was safe to do so, I accepted the invitation,
going ashore in the queen's canoe, and remained on the
island till December 8th. Then I boarded the little
schooner again, and we started for Raivavai, where we
landed on the 9th, and found President Pratt in good
health.

On December 10th, Elder Pratt sailed away in the
schooner, leaving me to take his place in presiding over the
interests of the Church on the island. Brother Pratt's
friends became my friends, and gave me food and shelter.
There were eight Church members on the island; all the
rest of the inhabitants, three hundred and eighty-three in
number, opposed us, many of them being the most savage
and rudest I had met — in fact, they were scarce removed
from cannibalism. Some of them did not hesitate to tell of
their experiences in eating human flesh, and that they had
sacrificed infant children to their idols. They showed the
coals before their heathen gods, where they had roasted
their babes. Some of them felt proud to relate these
things, saying it was in their heathenish days, before the
Gospel had come to their land, but now they thought it
very bad, and they had no disposition to repeat their evil
deeds.

I was shown to the house of Governor Fate, who re-
ceived me very kindly. He and his wife had received the
Gospel on Anaa, and although he was the legal heir to the
throne, as they called it, through his joining the Church he
had lost much of his influence. But he was a very good
man, rendering me all the assistance in his power, while I

24O LIFE OF A PIONEER.

visited from house to house, trying to make the acquaint-
ance of the people. I went to every home on the island,
endeavoring to inform the people on the Gospel, but they
were unwilling to give heed, and treated me with marked
indifference, often passing by and looking as surly as mad
bulls.

The island was not to exceed fourteen miles in circum-
ference, its high and very rugged peaks penetrating the
clouds, which nearly always were hanging over and about.
The mountains were so steep as to defy all but the wild
goats, of which there were some hundreds among the cragged
rocks. It was said that the beginning of the existence of
these animals on the island was that a sea captain had
turned three or four pairs of them loose some years before,
and they had increased to hundreds.

Having satisfied my curiosity by traveling over and
around the island, visiting the ancient places of worship
and seeing the heathen gods and places of skulls and sac-
rifice, I again called at every house, trying to become
more friendly and sociable with the people; but the same
stolid feelings still prevailed. I attended their meetings,
told them my business in the land, and asked the privilege
of preaching to them. Part were favorable, and part were
not. I baptized a few, and that caused much excitement.
A council was called to adopt some way by which the
islanders could get rid of Mormonism and the American
plant, as they called me. Some proposed to fasten the
"plant" on a log, and tow it out to sea, where the sharks
would eat it, while others suggested burning or making a
roast of me.

At last the matter was carried so far that it was de-
cided that I must leave the island or be killed. I learned
that they had just about decided on the latter course, so I
hastened to go before the council to try and allay their feel-
ings, if possible, and appease their wrath, but I found it

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 24I

utterly impossible to reason with them. My presence,
instead of having a conciliatory effect, created the wildest
confusion. I was confronted by a native called Tabate,
who was a very stout, heavy set man, and who exclaimed,
"I will slay you!" At that moment my friend, Governor
Fate, stepped between us, and some of the more peaceably
disposed took hold of Tabate, while my friends insisted
that I leave the house to save bloodshed, saying that
Tabate was a very desperate man, but if I left the room
they thought the council could restrain him. Accordingly
I withdrew with my friends. The council had a hot time
of it for awhile, but finally the more consistent party pre-
vailed, so that the matter passed over for the time being.
Still, a bad feeling rankled in their bosoms, and I could hear
threats that the more rabid party was going to have a fat
missionary for a roast.

Although this bitterness continued with many of the
people, I baptized some twenty souls, and blessed several
infants. I also administered to the sick, and, as I can now
remember, all were healed but one child, which died of hip
disease, it being a mere skeleton when I was called.

Other councils were held to see what could be done
to get rid of the "plant Mormonism, from America," be-
fore it spread over the island and became master. But the
friends and relatives of those who belonged to the Church
would oppose any harsh measures, saying, "Wait until our
missionaries of the English church come and we hear what
they say."

Now, Elder Pratt had baptized one man who was
seventy-five or eighty years of age. He was one of the
first born, and his feet had never been wet in salt water.
His name was Tauteni (thousand), because he had slain so
many people in war, and he could count skulls in his mori
or place of skulls, with the best of them. He was well
acquainted with the taste of human flesh; had been a great

242 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

high priest of the natives in their heathenish days, and was
supposed to have great influence with the spirits of men.
He had a grand-daughter who was said to be the heir to
the throne. This girl was brought forward by the old man
for baptism. He had reared her, and her parents being-
willing, I baptized her. This created great excitement and:
another council was held, where feelings ran so high that
it was very hard to conciliate our opponents. But the
old man told them that it was his and her father's fault, and
not the missionary'?, that she was baptized. The girl, whose
name was Teraa, also declared that it was by her wish and
not mine that she became a member of the Church. This
cooled them down a little, but occasionally local difficulties
would arise, and the natives would take sides and arm
themselves for war. One time I heard the shrieks of the
women, and the warwhoops of and commands given among
the men.

Although, one day when I was stopping at a village
called Tatake, I had heard that there was going to be a
battle fought, such rumors were so frequent that I did not
pay much attention thereto till I heard the warwhoops and
shouts. Then I jumped up, ran out, and beheld thirty to
forty men coming from the upper village, Anatomu. They
were armed with muskets, and were in their war costumes,
dancing and going through the manoeuvers peculiar to the
natives just before going into an action. At the same time
another party was approaching from the inland village of
Atibona. These, too, were ready, and with their drums, whis-
tles and shrieks made quite a showing. Still there were
some among them inclined to conciliation rather than war.

With my friends, I went out and plead with the two
parties to be reconciled, and finally we prevailed so that
both bodies of men retired without fighting, and a few of
each party met and shook hands, some of both parties
seeming friendly to us for a time.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 243

For a short time after this we had comparative quiet,
yet threats came about the Mormons, and there was talk of
taxing us for the support of the Protestant church. Our
brethren claimed rights in the school and meeting houses,
but were refused these; then they threatened to burst open
the houses, and came to me to get my sanction to do so;
but I could not consent to being a party to such a move-
ment, knowing that would give the enemy the pretext they
wanted, in order to carry out their threats. My party was
not pleased with my position, and threatened to break in
the houses anyway, and assert their rights to occupancy.
I told them that if they did I would disown them; that they
could not be my brethren if they indulged in anything of
the kind, as it was for us to be on the side of peace and
defense, and not to be aggressors. Finally they said they
would obey my counsel. Then things passed along more
smoothly for a time.

Soon a schooner came from the island of Ruruta, with
about one hundred passengers on board. They brought the
alleged news that all the American Elders had left Tubuoi,
and were going home. These passengers also seemed to
have been well posted in all the old slanders about the
Church, and with many new ones about the Elders. These
slanders were industriously circulated by the new comers,
who said that the people of Tubuoi were glad that the
Mormons had left their land. From these stories, and
the persecutions the Saints had endured on the island, the
few Church members grew sorrowful and discouraged.
When I went from Anatomu to Tatake, 1 found two of the
native brethren and two sisters very sad, and as soon as we
met they gave vent to their pent-up feelings, wept bitterly,
and said that I had to leave the island, and they intended to
follow me, no matter where I went. I told them not to
fear, and tried to pacify them as best I could.

At our next appointment for a meeting there were but

244 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

five out of thirty attended. This seemed strange, for there
always had been a full attendance; but now everyone was
sad and gloomy. The spirit of mobocracy seemed to thrive
on the filthy slanders that had come by the Ruruta schooner.
Meetings were called and threats made. Clouds of dark-
ness lowered and filled the atmosphere; the spirit of death
seemed to hover around, for the boisterousness of the peo-
ple had given way to a sullen, murderous disposition, more
to be dreaded than when there was abundance of noise and
threats.

At this time two young Protestant ministers came and
made three or four inflammatory speeches, telling the people
that they had admitted a wolf into the fold, and if they did
not get rid of him- the ministers would not call again.
"Drive him off, and pluck up that American plant, or it
will overshadow your land, and control you," said they.
Thus the wild and heathenish passion was fanned into a lively
flame of renewed persecution. Yet, strange to say, when
the spirit of death seemed to rest most heavily upon us,
the brethren and sisters returned to me with renewed zeal,
and all but two men stood firm thereafter.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 245

CHAPTER XXXII.

PEOPLE GATHER AT A FEAST, AND TO DECIDE WHAT TO DO WITH THE
MORMONS— THREATS TO HAVE ROAST MISSIONARY— SAINTS HOLD
PRAYER AND TESTIMONY MEETING— KEPT AWAKE ALL NIGHT-
COUNCIL OF NATIVES DECIDES TO ROAST AND EAT ME— EIRE IS
BUILT— MEN SENT TO DRAG ME TO THE COUNCIL— PROMISES OF
PRESIDENTS BRIGHAM YOUNG AND WILLARD RICHARDS COME TO
MY MIND— ALL FEAR IS BANISHED— SAINTS AND THEIR ENEMIES
ORDERED TO SEPARATE— ALL BUT TWO MORMONS STAND BY ME
—SUBLIME COURAGE OF A NATIVE AND HIS WIFE— THE CHARGE
AGAINST ME— I APPEAL TO THE BIBLE, BUT OUR ENEMIES RE-
FUSE TO BE GUIDED BY THE LAAV OF GOD-NOTIFIED OF THE
DECISION THAT I AM TO BE BURNED— SPIRIT OF THE LORD
RESTS UPON ME IN GREAT POWER, INSPIRING ME TO DEFY OUR
ENEMIES— SPIRIT OF CONFUSION ENTERS OUR FOES -THEY QUAR-
REL AND FIGHT WITH EACH OTHER— DIFFICULTY IN RESTRAIN-
ING CHURCH MEMBERS— DELIVERANCE WHICH THE LORD
WROUGHT OUT FOR ME— I AM ALLOWED TO PROCEED UNMO-
LESTED—MEET A MEMBER OF THE COUNCIL WHICH CONDEMNED
ME TO DEATH— HIS TESTIMONY THAT A PILLAR OF LIGHT DE-
SCENDED FROM HEAVEN AND RESTED ON ME, FILLING THEM
AVITH FEAR— NO MORE ANTI-MORMON COUNCILS— NATIVES SHOW
NO DISPOSITION TO RECEIVE THE GOSPEL.

ABOUT the 5th of May, 1852, the whole people were
called to assemble at the village of Tatake and pre-
pare a feast, and at the same time to decide definitely
what to do with the Mormon minister and his pipis (dis-
ciples). Everything was excitement. The young braves
came armed with muskets, shouting and yelling, saying
they were going to have a fat roast for tomorrow, while
the old councillors, twenty-five or thirty in number, came
with slow, quiet steps and grave countenances, and filed into
the schoolhouse just at dark. Then the people gathered,
loaded down with roast pig, and fruit, fish and poultry.
They kindled fires and began shouting, singing and
dancing.

246 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Soon the young braves were dancing around the house
that they were in; for by this time every member of the
Church had come to one place. The mob seemed to be
fully enthused with the spirit of murder, as they shouted,
"Tomorrow we will have a fat young missionary for a
roast!" Just then they fired a salute, seemingly under the
foundation or sill of the house — a frame building. Then
they commenced to tear down the post and pole fence that
enclosed the premises. This fence, together with other
wood, was piled up in a heap, as people in timbered
countries stack timber to burn it off their land. Then the
natives covered the wood with coral rock, as if they were
going to burn a lime kiln. They kept up a continual howl
all the night long, firing their guns, singing their war songs,
and burning their camp-fires.

While this was going on, we held prayer and testi-
mony meeting, never sleeping a moment the whole night.
Many times we could hear the crowd outside boasting
what a fine, fat missionary roast they were going to have
enanahe (tomorrow.)

Daylight came, and the village was all alive with people,
as in America on the Fourth of July, at a barbecue. Soon
the feasting began. The council had been all night in decid-
ing what they would do with the Mormons and their min-
ister. The provisions at the feast were apportioned to each
village according to its numbers, and subdivided among the
families, so that a full allowance was made for the Mor-
mon pupu (party). They sent to me the portion of ten men,
saying: "Here, this is for you, Iatobo (James), eat it and get
fat for the roast," laughing contemptuously as they did so.
By this time the whole people were in high glee, eating,
drinking, talking, laughing and jeering, as if all hands were
bent on pleasure only. When the feasting was over, all be-
came silent, and it seemed as though everybody had gone
to sleep.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 247

By i o'clock p. m. all were astir again. Two great
ruffians came into my apartment, armed with long clubs.
They said they had been sent t j order me before the coun-
cil, and if I refused to come they were to drag me there.
Everybody seemed to be on the qui vive. As quick as
thought, the promises of President Brigham Young flashed
through my mind; also the promise of Dr. Willard Rich-
ards, in which he told me, in the name of the Lord God of
Israel, that though men should seek my life, yet I should
return in safety to the bosom of the Saints, having done good
and honor to myself and the Church and Kingdom of God.
He also gave me instructions what to do; this was when start-
ing on my mission. The next thought that came to my
mind was: Have I forfeited those promises? The an-
swer that came quickly from the Spirit wras no; and this
drove away all fear. Not a doubt was left in my mind.

Without hesitation I arose and walked out to the
beach, where the people had assembled, the Saints follow-
ing me. We passed by the log heap to the assemblage, at
the head of which stood twelve or fifteen stout, athletic,
young braves, with hair cut close. They were stripped
naked to their breechclouts, and were oiled. They stood
with folded arms, and certainly seemed formidable, although
they were without weapons, for they had a fierce and sav-
age look about them that must be seen to be realized in its
effect.

As we came near, the man Tabate stepped out from
the crowd and said, "All the Britons stand to the right hand
with the sheep, and all the Mormons stand to the left hand
where the goats are." Everyone responded to the order
except two men from the Mormon party, who drew off to
themselves and were neutral. At that, one faithful Mor-
mon man named Rivae and his wife with an eight months
old babe in her arms, stepped forward, well knowing what
the sentence was to be. This brave brother said, "If you

248 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

burn this man," pointing t® the writer, "you burn me first."
His heroic wife stepped forward, holding her babe at arm's
length, and shouted, "I am a Mormon, and this baby is a
Mormon, for 'nits make lice,' and you will have to burn all
of us, or Mormonism will grow again." I had told the
people the story of the massacre at Haun's Mill, Missouri,
in which some of the mob shot the children who had crept
for safety under the bellows in the blacksmith shop, the
murderers saying, as they butchered the innocents, 'Nits
will make lice" — Mormons in that instance.

Rivae and his wife was ordered to stand back, while
as a prisoner I was called to take a position in the space
between the two parties. As I obeyed the command, I
was confronted by Tabate, the spokesman or judge, who
had been the chief promoter of all the trouble from the begin-
ning. Said he: "Iatobo, you have caused the people of
our land to sin by having them to travel more than a Sab-
bath day's journey on the Sabbath. You have also taught
the people that God is a material God, and that is not law-
ful to teach in our land." To this I answered, "Show me
where the teaching is wrong from the Bible." At the
same time I opened the Bible. A strong and determined
voice told me to shut the book, and put it up, for that was
the law of God, and the decision of the landholders and
authorities was that I should be burned to death, and thus
they would rid the land of Mormonism.

Pointing to the left and rear of the prisoner, to the log
heap, which was then at the zenith of its burning, wTith
haughty demeanor and in an exulting voice, Tabate said,
"Look there at that fire. It is made to consume the flesh
off of your bones." In that moment the Spirit of the Lord
rested mightily upon me, and I felt as though I could run
through a troop and leap over a wall. "In the name of
Israel's God," I said, "I defy ten of your best men, yea, the
host of you, for I serve that God who delivered Daniel from

250 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

the den of lions, and the three Hebrew children from the
fiery furnace!"

Dear reader, it is impossible for me to describe the
power, the cool resignation, the unshaken confidence, and
the might that overshadowed my soul and body, that thrilled
through every fibre of my existence. For there was ab-
solutely not one particle of fear or tremor in my whole be-
ing. But I did feel thankful for that great and marvelous
deliverance, because in the very moment that I defied the
host the spirit of division rested upon the judge who had
passed the sentence, his counselors, and the executioners, in-
somuch that the counselors faced the executioners, and they
grappled with each other in a sharp tussle. From that en-
sued a fight, until the whole people were mixed up in it.

Even two of our old tottering Mormons, Tautene and
Hauty, came in with their clubs, and were so enraged that
they actually champed their teeth together till the froth
filled the corners of their mouths, as I have seen it with
mad dogs. Both of them had been great warriors in their
time, and could boast of having eaten human flesh, but at
this time they were so old and feeble that I took each of
them by the arms and forced them from the fight into the
house, where I had ordered all the Mormons to go. I told
them to stay in the house or I would excommunicate them
from the Church. As they seemed to be almost ungovern-
able, I gave Fute, a priest and a stout man, a club, and told
him to keep them in the house if he had to knock them
down to do it, while I went back to the battleground, picked
up my Bible and hat, and returned to find my party recon-
ciled to their fate, and feeling more like rejoicing than fight-
ing. In an effort to free himself from her clinging embrace
Hauty had struck his wife with a club. This was before
I had got hold of him. She was trying to keep him out of
the melee. The woman was very lame for weeks after re-
ceiving the blow.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 25 1

During all this time our enemies quarreled and fought
with clubs and stones, pulled hair and screamed. They
did not cease fighting till sundown. Then, with many sore
heads, and more sore limbs, they dispersed, and I doubt
very much if the majority of them knew what they had
been fighting for. After they left, a feeling of quiet and
safety pervaded the village, especially in and about our
residence, such as we had not before known on the island,
and for weeks everything was strangely peaceful. People
who once seemed surly and defiant, now had a tame and
subdued expression in their countenances, and appeared to
prefer passing by unnoticed rather than otherwise.

Some two months later, I was traveling alone in the
timber, and at a short turn in the road I chanced to meet
one of the old counselors who decided that I should be
burned. We were close together before we saw each
other. At sight of me he turned and ran as hard as he
could, and I, without any particular object in view, gave
chase and ran him down. I seized him by the neck, and asked
why he ran from me and why he was afraid of me. Said
he: "Your God is a God of power, and 1 was afraid to
meet His servant." I inquired how he knew that my God
was a God of power, and why they had not burned me
when they had decided to do so. He answered: "At the
moment that you defied us there was a brilliant light, or
pillar of fire, bore down .close over your head. It was as
bright as the sun. We remembered reading in the Bible
about Elijah calling fire down from heaven so that it con-
sumed the captains and their fifties, and we thought tnat
you had prayed to your God of power, and that He had
sent that fire to burn us and our people if we harmed you.
The young men did not see the light. They were going
to burn you, and we tried to stop them. So we got into a
fight. Now we all know that you are a true servant of
God, and we do not like to meet you, out of fear."

)

252 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

From what I was able to learn, that feeling was shared
by the whole community, and I was treated with great
respect ever afterwards. I felt freer and safer when alone
than ever before. Indeed, there never was another coun-
cil meeting called to devise a way to get rid of the Mor-
mons from that island, while I remained there. But for all
that, the islanders did not want to learn the Gospel. Yet
ever afterward, when they feasted I was always remembered
with a very liberal portion of the very best they had. I
do not remember baptizing another soul there after that
event. There I remained, and part of the time I fished,
also hunted the wild chickens that abounded in the moun-
tains— fowls of the common Dominique variety, which had
grown wild in the fastnesses of the hills, and could fly equal
to the sagehen or prairie chicken.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

LONG TIME WITHOUT NEWS FROM HOME— LETTER FROM ELDER B.
F. GROUARD— RELEASED FROM MY MISSIONARY LABORS IN THE
ISLANDS— LITTLE OPPORTUNITY TO LEAVE RAIVAVAI— NATIVES
BUILD A SCHOONER— FAST AND PRAY TO LEARN WHETHER I
SHOULD SAIL ON THE VESSEL-THE ANSWER— SAIL FOR RAPIA—
DRIVEN BACK TO RAIVAVAI— MAKE A NEW START— ARRIVE AT
RAPIA — RIDICULOUS IDEA OF THE PEOPLE CONCERNING A
MORMON ELDER-I AM FORBIDDEN TO GO ASHORE, ON PAIN OF
DEATH— FEELING IS MODIFIED SOMEWHAT, AND I GO ASHORE—
BATTLE BETWEEN THE NATIVES— AN OLD MAN GIVES ME FOOD
—ATTEND A MEETING, GET PERMISSION TO SPEAK A FEW WORDS
AND AM ORDERED FROM THE ISLAND— INCREASE OF SENTIMENT
OF TOLERATION— INVITED TO SUPPER AT THE GOVERNOR'S—
STRANGE CUSTOM OF WOMEN WAITING ON MEN— RATHER THAN
FOLLOW IT, I SUBMIT TO BEING CALLED A HEATHEN.

WHEN I had spent seven months alone on the island
of Raivavai, without any news from the outer world
or perhaps it would be more proper to say inner world —

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 253

for this island and Rapia are as near out of the world as any
portion of it can be — I began to wonder when I could hear
some tidings of the brethren on the other islands. I had not
had an opportunity to leave Raivavai in all the time that I
had been there; nor did I have the slightest idea when it
would be possible for me to return to the land of my na-
tivity, for the natives told me that within their memory there
had been seven years at a time when they had not so much
as seen a sail, and it was not infrequent for from one to three
years to pass without a vessel calling. Therefore it will
not be thought strange when I say that the time became
very monotonous.

Here is an extract from a letter received just before I
did leave the island; it was from Elder B. F. Grouard,
counselor to President Pratt in the presidency of the mis-
sion, and bears date of Papeete, Tahiti, April 18, 1852:

"Dear Brother J ames : — I embrace the present oppor-
tunity of writing you a line, perhaps for the last time before
leaving for California, though I hope we may be able to
arrange matters so that you will be permitted to come here
and make one of our party across. The governor is now
absent, down at Raiatea, consequently nothing can be done
about your case until he returns. * * * *

"Wednesday, 21st. — Mr. Kelly has sent for you on his
own responsibility. You must be careful and not go on
shore on the protectorate islands, but be sure and come, or
rather, he has authorized me to send for you.

"I have the honor to be, your brother in Christ, and
fellow laborer in the Gospel, B. F. Grouard."

From this it will be seen that I was released from fur-
ther labors in that mission. I also was without any means
in sight to get away from the land that had been so fruitful
of troubles to me. It is true that the natives had a schooner
of twenty or twenty-five tons burden in course of construe-

254 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

tion, but they were so uncertain and tardy in their move-
ments that there was really no dependence to be placed in
anything of the kind that they undertook. Indeed, it was
doubtful whether they would complete the vessel at all,
though six or eight weeks was ample time in which to fin-
ish it. Besides, they were liable to get into a quarrel that
would cause delay for many months. Again, so frail was
the boat that it did not seem that it ever could be safe to go
to sea. Nearly every stave and brace was made from the
bark of the buru tree, and twisted by hand. The anchor was
a chunk, of wood with old scraps of iron spiked on to it, and
for a chain the same kind of material was used as for the
stays and braces. The galley was only a square box of
two and a half feet, filled with soil and tied down to the deck
with a bark rope; and as to the helm, it had to be held by
hand, taking two or three men to manage it, especially in
rough weather. The compass was no better than a tin plate;
in fact, it could not be of any service whatever — and the
sails were almost rotten. But at last the boat was launched,
and leaked so badly that it did not seem possible to make
it of service; but the natives persevered and baled it out,
and it was soaked up until they considered it safe.

This boat being built, it seemed to offer a possible
means for me to see white men's land again. There was
no one for me to advise with, the very men who had planned
my destruction being the owners and masters of the craft.
The voyage they anticipated taking was said by them to be
seven hundred miles, to the island of Rapia, and from thence
a like distance to Tahiti, in all fourteen hundred miles. The
food and fresh water supply was also very uncertain. The
water had to be carried in large gourds and cocoanuts. Nor
was this all that had to be considered. In those parts there
are dense fogs and rainstorms, for days together, so that
navigation is very hazardous where there is only the sun,
moon, and stars to depend upon, and these obscured.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 255

The reader will perceive the gravity of the situation
that confronted the writer when he came to decide what to
do. As the time drew near for the boat's departure, I re-
tired to a lonely place in the woods, and there fasted and
prayed for three days, fasting all the time and going to my
retreat to pray as often in the three days as I thought
proper. This was done in order to ascertain from the
divine Source whether or not I should take the risk of going
on that vessel at that time. The answer came plain and
distinct to my understanding, though not in words to the
natural senses, yet to my entire satisfaction that all would
be well if I went. From that moment I hungered and
thirsted, but had not done so before in ail the time that I
had fasted.

Accordingly, on September 22, 1852, I engaged pas-
sage on the Raivavai schooner, bound for Rapia. On the
23rd I went aboard, and we sailed out, but some of the
rigging gave way, and we were bound to return for repairs.
On the 24th we tried again, passing out of the harbor with a
light breeze, at 5 o'clock a. m. There were sixty-two souls on
board, all seasick. On the 26th and 27th there was a dead
calm. At daylight on the 28th we found ourselves on the op-
posite side of the island and very near it, surrounded by hun-
dreds of great whales. Our navigators were so confused that
they did not know their own island until they went ashore.
Again the rigging gave way, and we had to put into port
to repair it and to replenish our food supply.

On October 4th we sailed once more, and with a strong
and fair wind on the 9th we reached the island of Rapia,
which has a high and abrupt coast with a good harbor, but
a very narrow passage thereto, in which we were hailed by
a fisherman who inquired about the white man on board.
When the crew told him it was a Mormon Elder, he hast-
ened to the shore, ran to the village and told the people that
a Mormon Elder was on the schooner. The people had

256 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

never seen a Mormon, but had heard the most ridiculous
stories about us. They became excited, and frightened as
well, for they had heard that Mormons had cloven feet and
shells on their backs, and were some kind of mongrel be-
tween man and beast. They also had been told that the
Mormons were so lustful that it was very difficult for the
females to escape from them. This being the only infor-
mation the people had about the Latter-day Saints, it was
no wonder that the men armed themselves with muskets
and fish spears, and came to the landing or lay in ambush,
the females keeping at a respectful distance, while the more
brave and fearless ventured to come on board, inspect the
"animal," and forbid him to set his foot on shore on pain
of death. Strange as this statement of affairs may appear,
it is nevertheless true.

At length a number of the people came on board and
spied around as if to discover the peculiar features of a
Mormon Elder, and they, with my friends, thought that
possibly it was safe for me to go ashore; accordingly I went
in the first canoe. As we neared the landing, six or seven
men, some with muskets and some with fishing spears, rose
up out of the brush and tall grass, and peeked and pried,
as they afterwards said, to discern the cloven foot. As they
could not discover the deformities which they had expected
to find, they said, "Why, he looks like any other white man
or minister; we do not want to kill him." There were
others who, however, acted very surly, and would not speak
nor shake hands, but told my friends that I must leave their
island or I would be killed. Finally we were permitted to
go up to the village, where the people all ran together to
see the stranger. None dared invite him into their houses,
so he took his seat out on a log, while they feasted. His
friends joined with the feasting parties, thinking it would be
better for him-if they were sociable with the people and
acquainted them with the supposed monster's customs and

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 2 $7

habits, as also with what he had been teaching the peo-
ple.

Two weeks before we landed, the inhabitants of this vil-
lage had had a battle with the people of another village across
the island, and some of both parties had been killed, while
others were yet suffering from their wounds. This, I sup-
pose, had something to do with the spirit of murder and
bloodshed that hung so thickly around the place. When
the people finished feasting, one old man brought me some
food on a banana leaf, and then slipped away as if he did
not wish anybody to see him. To me it seemed a case of
root hog, or die, or at least it was to eat or starve, so the
kind offer was thankfully received. I found the admoni-
tion of Paul, wherein he said, eat what is set before you,
and ask no questions, for conscience, sake appropriate in
this case.

The bell was soon rung for meeting, and the people
quickly came together. I met with them, and at the con-
clusion of their services asked the privilege of acquainting
them with my business in their country; for myself and
native friends were the first Mormons who had ever been
there, and to save the necessity of anyone else coming I felt
it my bounden duty to offer them the Gospel, as it has to be
preached in every land and to every people. I succeeded
in saying a few words, and received for my pains an order
from the presiding priest to go out of the house and leave
the island.

Although many of the people seemed to sanction the
course of the priest, there were a few who did not seem to
favor it; but to save trouble I left the house. The people
then began to discuss the order and to question its justice,
as we had been mild and made no display of obstinacy. At
last they concluded that the Mormon was not quite so bad
as he had been represented, and that he might come into
the governor's and have supper at a table which the Prot-

258 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

estant ministers had furnished for their own accommodation,,
and where they had left some dishes and a chair; so I was
comfortably seated at the table and the food brought on.
Quite a handsome young girl of about sixteen stood by the
table, and as soon as a blessing was asked, she, with her
fingers, tore the roasted chicken to pieces, stripped the flesh
from off the bones, and held this to my mouth, saying,.
"There!"

I drew back a little, as that was so strange a custom
that I did not appreciate it. The girl was quite dark com-
plexioned, and some one observed, "She is so dark that he
thinks she is dirty. Let her get some soap and wash be-
fore him, and then see if he will eat." As the people seemed
so strange in their actions, I thought there was some trick
to be played, so I waited until she had washed her hands-
and, in obedience to orders, stepped up, saying that her hands-
were clean, "Look, that is my color, and not dirt." Still I
felt dubious about taking the bait. Then she was told to
step back, and another young lady was called for. This
one was quite fair, with rather light brown or auburn hair.
They said "Now he will eat, for he will think she is white,"
but I still refused the courtesy. Then some one who was
standing by said, "Let him feed himself, like a heathen."
At this the master of ceremonies said, "Why do you not
eat?" I tried to explain to them that it seemed to me to be
wrong to require so much of the females — that they should
prepare the food and then stand or sit by and put it into a
man's mouth. "Well," said he, "she was the first to sin,,
and she ought to wait on the man."

At this an old man who lay flat on his stomach with the
Bible before him, opened the book to where Paul said that
when he was in Rome he did as the Romans did. The old
man had his hair bushed, and, apparently, the very brand of
heathenism in his face. I would have thought as much of
looking on a brush heap or in a muskrat house for intelli-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF |AMES S. BROWN. 259

gence as to have anticipated anything smart from him. He
said, "My friend, do you believe in the Bible?" I said,
"Yes, and it is good to do as it says." "Then," said he,
"you are a liar; for Paul said that when he was in Rome
he did as the Romans did, and now you are in Rapia you
will not' do as the Rapians do; for it is our way for the
women to put the food into our mouths. That is the way
we do in this land."

Sure enough, I learned that this was true; for when
the meal is ready it is brought into the room in baskets, and
the male portion of the household get down on their hands
and knees, while the females pick the bones from the fish,
pork or poultry, as the case may be, and with their fingers
put the flesh into their masters' mouths. To conclude with,
the woman dips her hand into a dish of water, and wipes
his mouth. Then he moves away, and the wife and daugh-
ter take the scraps, or what may be left. It is considered
as great a shame on that island for a man to put food into
his mouth as it is in China for a Mongolian to have his queue
cut off. But to me it seemed so ridiculous that my stay
there was too short to make it seem even human. I did
not adopt the custom, preferring to be called a heathen by
those who did practice it.

260 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

DETERMINE TO PREACH TO THE PEOPLE— REFUSED A HOUSE— HOLD AN
OPEN-AIR MEETING— STRANGE CONGREGATION— SIX OTHER MEET-
INGS—VISIT A NATIVE KING— HE COMMANDS ME TO LEAVE— I DO
SO IN ORDER TO AVOID BEING PUT TO DEATH— WATERMELONS
AND OTHER VEGETABLES— NATIVE TRADITION OF THE PEOPLING
OF THE ISLANDS— VISIT OF A PROTESTANT MINISTER— SAIL FOR
TAHITI— IN A HEAVY STORM— PRAYERS BY FRIGHTENED NATIVES
—I AM ASKED TO PRAY WITH THEM, BUT DECLINE TO FOLLOW
THEIR METHODS— REACH THE HARBOR OF PAPEETE— AMERICAN
CONSUL OBTAINS PERMISSION FOR ME TO LAND— GO TO WORK
WITH A CARPENTER— WARNED NOT TO BE ALONE LEST I SHOULD
BE KILLED— WATCHED BY GEN D' ARMES— TROUBLE AT ANAA,
AND ARREST OF NATIVE MORMONS — THESE ARE BROUGHT TO
PAPEETE— HOW THEY GOT LETTERS TO ME, AND THEIR REPLIES
—MY FORMER PERSECUTORS OF RAIVAVAI COME TO ME FOR
ADVICE, AND I RETURN GOOD FOR EVIL.

AS I felt the great need of reform among the people
of Rapia, I tried again to get the privilege of preach-
ing to them in their house, but found them unyielding on
that point. There were three native brethren and their
wives who had come with me. I was impressed that we
ought to make yet another trial to leave our testimony with
the islanders, so we went out by the side of their meeting
house, which wras a frame building set up on blocks some
eighteen inches or two feet from the ground, the dirt floor
being thatched with dry grass. We stood within ten feet
of the house and commenced to sing. Before we were
ready to read our text, it seemed that everybody in the vil-
lage had come around, but not in the ordinary way. They
crowded into the meeting house and some filled the win-
dows, while others lay down and poked their heads out
under the sills of the house; still others got dovvn on their
hands and knees some five or six rods off and crawled

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 26l

along through the shrubbery, taking hold of the brush as
they drew near, lying flat down and drawing themselves
along, taking sticks and poking the weeds aside so they
could get a better view. With this most singular congre-
gation before us, and the most perfect order (for it seemed
as if there was not a whisper,) we read a chapter in the
Bible — the third of Matthew, I believe — then preached on
faith, repentance, and baptism for the remission of sins. At
the dismissal of our services the whole assembly withdrew,
and after that I had lots of, food, such as it was.

We held seven meetings on that little fragment of terra
firma, and visited the king in the west village. We found
the royal personage at home, sitting Indian fashion on his
couch, half naked. He appeared to be a man of unusually
strong character, very surly, and did not want to talk.
When I attempted to tell him the object of my mission to
his country, his neck swelled out, and he began blowing
through his nostrils like a mad bull. He said, "You leave
my country." By this time my native friends discovered
that danger was gathering around us, and told me that we
must not delay one moment, but must get away as quickly
as possible, for that village had suffered defeat at the hands
of the people of the other village, and we could not be
friendly with the king and his followers if we were to the
others.

We got away, and afterwards it developed that my
friends had foreseen a peril that I had not fully understood,
for when the king said we had better get away from his
country, that was his ultimatum, and if we had remained
longer every one of us would have been slain, as the peo-
ple were preparing for the slaughter.

On our retreat I observed a castor oil bean tree loaded
with beans. Its trunk was as large as a man's body. I
began to inspect it when my friends called out, "Hurry up,
or we will every one be killed," so we hastened to more

262 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

friendly and hospitable parts, where we came across a large
gourd, or calabash vine, and a watermelon patch. Never
having seen anything of the kind on any other island where
I had been, my inquisitive propensities were set to work
ascertaining how those things came there. Were they a
spontaneous growth? If not, where, did they come from,
since this little island is so remote from all others, and the
natives tell me that white men seldom visit them? I inquired
of the people where they got the seed of the vegetables
named. . "Why," said they, "our forefathers brought them
here."

"Where did they come from?"
The reply was, "From the rising of the sun."
On hearing this, I asked from what country, and was
answered, "We do not know. It was a big land, so big
they did not know its boundary. It was a land of food,
and of great forests of big trees, and great fresh waters
that were filled with fish."

I next inquired, "How came they to leave such a good
land?" The response was in these words: "We do not
know, only they said they got lost in the fog, and were
several days without seeing the sun. Then the strong
winds came and blew them over here, and their vessel was
wrecked on this island. They never could get back to the
lands of their forefathers, so they stayed here. They in-
creased so fast that all could not live on this land, so they
made canoes and tried to get back, but the winds were
against them, that they were carried away to the west, and
for a long time those left here supposed the others were
lost in the sea; but after a time it was learned that there
were other lands where the sun goes down. Then our
people made canoes and went to them, and we think that
is the way these islands became peopled, for they are the
same kind of people as ourselves."

"Have you any other knowledge of your forefathers?"

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 263

"No, we do not know anything but that which the
fathers have said. They used to say that if they could get
back to their fatherland they could find metal to make fish
spears and hooks with. When the first white men's ship
came in sight we tried to go to it, thinking we could get
some fishing tackle therefrom. We thought that vessel
must have come from our fathers' land. But the wind was
so strong we could not get to the ship, and it was a long
time before another one came. Finally we reached one,
and got such things as our fathers had told us about."

Read the Book of Mormon, page 427, 63d chapter,
5th to 9th verses. Was the ship that Hagoth built the
same that was wrecked on the island of Rapia. South
Pacific Ocean, about 250 south latitude, and, as near as I can
find out from French charts, time reckoned from Paris,
France, in longitude 140 west?

The reader may form his own conclusions, as I return
to my narrative of our stay on the island. When we had
returned from our visit to the surly king, one man by the
name of Mesearee opened his house for us to hold meet-
ing in, but very few attended with us.

October 17th, the bark Jo/in Williams called with one
Mr. Piatt, a Protestant minister, on board. This clergyman
was a man of fine address. He came ashore and preached,
then sprinkled all the infant children of the village. Though
very pleasant, he refused to talk with me in the Tahitian
language, saying that if we did so on the Scriptures it
would cause a split among the people. I insisted that he
show the natives the scripture for his mode of baptism, but
he declined to do that, and boarded his vessel and sailed
away.

October 27, 1852, we sailed for Tahiti. On the 29th
we encountered a very heavy storm, so severe that we lost
all of our sails, and had to lash two of our strong men on
deck with slack rope so that they might fasten down the

264 LIFE OF A PIONEER-

hatch and companion ways. The rest of us had to go be-
low, for the sea was lashed into a foamy mass as white as
snow. It did not seem possible for us to survive the terri-
ble ordeal. As in almost all similar cases, the wicked will
pray — that is in times of great danger, if at no other time
— so the natives who went below, some fifty-nine in num-
ber, divided themselves into three praying parties. One of
these occupied the bow, one stationed itself amidships, and
one was in the stern of the vessel. Then a man in one
party would pray at the top of his voice, and so on with
each party in turn. Thus they prayed, passing the word
back and forth, as long as the sea raged in its fury.

In all of our travels together, those in charge of the
vessel had never honored me with a request to attend pray-
ers, or once called me to ask a blessing, but now, in our
great peril, one of the old priests found his way in the
dense darkness to my berth, and said: "Iatobo, you pray
to your God of power, to spare us, that we may not die in
this great sea." I told him no, for I had done my praying
on land, before I had boarded the schooner, and now I had
all that I could do to hold myself in the berth, that I might
not be thrown out and killed. He returned with a grunt,
and commanded the rest to pray. These conditions con-
tinued for six or seven hours, when the wind abated, and
the little schooner pitched and rolled as if she would go to
the bottom.

November 1, 1852, we sighted a reef called Herehe-
retue. On the 9th we came in view of Metia, and on the
10th we went into the harbor of Papeete, Tahiti. It was
on the nth when, through the intervention of Mr. Kelly,
American consul, I got permission to land. The same gen-
tleman gave me an introduction to one Charles Hill, a car-
penter, who was rather a backslider from the Mormon
Church. Still, he was very friendly, and said that if I
would assist him in carpenter work he would board and

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 265

lodge me until I could get a passage home. Mr. Kelly
counseled me not to be alone anywhere, as a watch would
be kept over me every minute I was on the island. He
said he would not be responsible if I preached or traveled
out of the town, as I was liable to be shot the moment that
I was found alone. Said he, "The French are more bitter
towards you than ever. They seem to think you would
turn everything upside down if you were allowed to run
at large. I have never seen them so excited over anything
as they are about you. They are actually afraid of you,
for fear that if you were permitted to go among the people
again they would revolt at once, and there would be another
war." He also said that he would arrange matters so that
I could go with Mr. Hill to and from his work, and if we
kept close together, he thought it all safe, as Mr. Hill was
well known; but that I had better stop in his office till he
could see the governor, and I could go out to Mr. Hill's in
the evening with him, as he lived in the suburbs of the
town. Mr. Kelly also told me there had been more trouble
at Anaa, and a number of our people from there were in
prison on Tahiti; and further, that I was held responsible
for all the trouble on that island.

It'having been arranged for me to stop with Mr. Hill,
he called for me in the evening, and next morning I went
to work with him at his business. In the meantime the
news of my arrival on Tahiti spread very fast, and the sons
of the prisoners from Anaa, who had followed their par-
ents in disguise, and could visit the prisoners one at a time,
put pencil and paper into their hands on the sly, so that
they could write to me. Five or six of the young men
dressed themselves as the regular "toughs" of the town,
and met Mr. Hill and me, one of them bearing a note in his
hand. When they got near us they began to dance and
sing in a very rude manner, acting as if they would not
give any of the road to us. Then they pushed the one

17

266 life of a pioneer. • . . . ,(; r-c

with the note against me, and as he passed it into my hand
the rest circled clear around so as to obscure me from two
gen d' armes who followed us day and night. Then the
young men would shout and laugh as if they had done it
to annoy me in particular. Thus I received letters from
the natives. The young men would meet us again, and I
would pass to them the answers, while they would appear
to the looker-on to be running against me purposely, to in-
sult and annoy me. Sometimes I would try to show my
displeasure by scolding at them. In this way a regular
correspondence was carried on between the unfortunate
prisoners and myself, during my stay. In that manner I
learned that there were twenty-three of them in prison,
there being ten Elders, five Priests, four Teachers and four
Deacons. On the 12th there were eight more prisoners
brought from the island of Anaa, six brethren and two
sisters. All of the thirty-one were put to work on the
steep side of a mountain, to make a road up to a fort. The
hillside was so steep that some of them fell and were hurt
quite seriously. Sometimes the prisoners were beaten by
the guards that attended them. Their provisions were very
poor, and they had not even enough of that.

I will again mention my former persecutors Of the
island of Raivavai, with whom I traveled to Tahiti, for they
came to me in great trouble, and said their schooner had
been so badly damaged in the storm we had been in that
the French had condemned it, and would not allow them to
go to sea again. They were four hundred miles from
home, without money, provisions or friends. They very
humbly asked my advice, which I gave freely, telling them
to state their case to the French authorities, and these
would be bound to rind a way to have them returned home
and give them support until they did so. This pleased
them very much; they seemed to appreciate the counsel .of
one whom they had sat in judgment and helped to pass

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 267

sentence upon, ordering him to be burned. Doubtless
some of them had aided in gathering the fuel to make the
fire for the burning. I condoled with them as much as the
conditions would admit of; and when I came to part with
them they seemed to feel, and in fact said, that I had been
a true friend to them. They wept as though they were
my near relatives. Thus returning good for evil brought
blessings.

CHAPTER XXXV.

WATCHED CLOSELY BY GEN D' ARMES — EXPERIENCE WHEN AT
PRAYER— TAKE DINNER WITH REV. MR. HOWE— DINING WITH
A CATHOLIC BISHOP-IMPATIENCE OF THE GOVERNOR— LEAVE
TAHITI ON 'J HE ABYSSINIA— CURIOSITY OF PASSENGERS AND
SAILORS— DIFFICULTY IN GETTING OUT OF THE HARBOR— HEAR
OF MORE TROUBLE AT ANAA— CAPTAIN'S COMMENT ON MOR-
MON BOOKS— A WATERSPOUT— CROSSING THE EQUATOR— EN-
COUNTER A TERRIBLE STORM— A TIDAL WAVE— SHIP SPRINGS A
LEAK— PANIC ON BOARD -ALL HANDS TO THE PUMPS-STOPPING
A LEAK— FAIR WEATHER AGAIN.

s

""* O far as my own conduct was concerned, now that I
was again on the island of Tahiti, 1 continued with
Mr. Hill. Two gen d' armes followed us or hung around
where we wrere at work all day, and at night tramped about
the house where we lived. At daylight the night guards
disappeared in the brush. One morning I stepped three or
four rods into the brush, for my morning devotions, and as
I was engaged with my eyes closed I heard a rustling in the
leaves. Supposing it was the hogs that ran around there,
I paid no attention until I was through, when I saw two
officers standing within fifteen feet of and in front of me,
gazing straight into my face. They were heavily armed,
but did not interfere with me, so I returned to the house,

268 ." LIFE OF. A PIONEER.

while they mounted the fence and sat there till we went to
work, when they followed us up as usual.

During this time I met with Mr. Howe, the presiding
official of the Protestant mission on the islands. He ap-
peared to feel very sympathetic toward me, and invited me
to take dinner with him and his good old lady. I accepted
the invitation, and he made me a present of a Tahitian Bible,
also of a Tahitian and English dictionary. He is the same
Mr. Howe spoken of before, when he was so radically op-
posed to me, but now he seemed charitable and kind. After
I left his house, and was passing along in sight of the Cath-
olic bishop's office, the bishop sent a servant after me, in-
viting me in to dine and wine. Accordingly, I called, rinding
him a very polite gentleman. He met me at the door of
his library, took me by the hand and courteously led me to
a seat, then set out some wine, saying he was very sorry
that he had but one glass of wine in the room, though he
set out two glasses, but poured all the wine into one, which
he presented to me. At that moment the saying of the
Lord Jesus came to my mind, to be harmless as doves but
wise as serpents. I adopted as much French politeness as
I was capable of, divided the wine into the two glasses, pre-
sented him the one with the most wine in, telling him that
I could not think of drinking alone — that he must join me
or I should decline his very kind offer. I thought that if
he could stand to drink the largest half of the wine, I could
afford to try the least half, and as I preferred him to drink
his first, I delayed until he had swallowed it, when I drank
to his health. We had a sociable chat, and he insisted on
my stopping to supper, when he would have plenty of wine.
I told him I could not, as my attendants, the gen d' armesr
were waiting patiently for me. He next presented me two
books, telling me that they would show how the priesthood
had descended from Peter down to the present pope. The

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 269

books being in the French language, were of no use to me,
so I bade him good-bye.

I learned from Mr. Kelly that the governor was impa-
tient at my stay on the island, so I disposed of everythnig that
I could spare, raised sixty dollars thereby, and prepared to
sail on the English ship Abyssinia, from Sydney, Australia,
and commanded by Captain George Gordon.

November 24, 1852, I boarded the Abyssinia, paying
sixty dollars steerage passage to San Francisco, California.
When I got on the deck, the seamen and some of the
passengers crowded around me, and stared at me as if
I had been a wild beast. When I saluted them with, -'Gentle-
men, how are you?" they looked at each other as much as
to say, "Shall we return the compliment?" At last one of
the sailors took off his hat, made a bow, and said, "Please
sir, can you speak English?" I answered, "Yes, sir, a lit-
tle." The next question was, "And are you a Mormon
Elder?" My reply was, "Yes," and was followed with,
"Well, pardon me, but I thought a Mormon Elder had a
cloven foot and a shell on his back, and I expected that
you would be brought aboard in a case, as I have been told
that the Mormons were a kind of half beast, fierce, and
wild."

Some of the others said that they had had the same

ideas. A third party exclaimed, "What d d lies they

have told us! We have been anxious to see this Elder ever
since we heard there was one coming on board, and we
thought to see you brought in a big cage. We cannot see
any difference in you and common men." So much for wild
and slanderous stories afloat in those days and in that part
of the world.

Shortly the vessel was got under way, but just as we
entered the passage the wind slackened so that we came
very near being crushed against the reef. Five boats from
a French warship came to our aid, as we had cast anchor

270 LIFE OF A PIONEER*. U k

to save ourselves, and the Frenchmen towed us back to a
safe location, where we lay until the 26th.

We tried it again on the 27th, and as we passed out of
the harbor we went close to the French warship, which was
weighing anchor. On the deck stood the Catholic bishop,
who held up his cross and made signs. He said there was
trouble in Anaa again, and he was going there.

After we sailed, the captain of the Abyssinia asked me
to lend him some books on Mormonism. I let him take the
Book of Mormon and the Doctrine and Covenants. He
returned them on the 29th, saying, "I believe the books and
your prayers have made me sick." He did not trouble me
any more about Mormonism, yet treated me with proper
respect, as a rule.

There were several male and female passengers on
board, a portion of the latter being of the lewd class, judg-
ing from their actions; and the former were not much bet-
ter. I loaned all the books that I had to passengers and
seamen. Nearly all on board treated me in a courteous
manner.

On November 30th a waterspout passed close to our
ship, causing much excitement. Its roar was frightful, as it
carried a very great column of water up into the air, and
spread it out into the clouds like a whirlwind on land, but on
so much larger scale as to be a dread to seamen.

December 1st we sighted what the captain called Flint's
Island. It was large and high, and appeared to be in-
habited. On the 10th we crossed the equator, where the
seamen had some sport at the expense of several of the
passengers who had not crossed it before. They made
preparations for Neptune, and told many stories of his
pranks with those who dared cross his path without paying
penance, or treating the ship's crew.

On the 20th we encountered a terrific storm, which
carried away most of our sail, and left us badly damaged.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 27 1

On Christmas day we had something like a tidal wave in a
calm sea. The wave was so great that it swept away the
main topgallant sail and the jib boom. Two seamen were
carried below for dead. The ship sprung a leak in the bow,
and the peril became so great that all the seamen and the
male passengers were called to lend a hand. It being in
the night, the consternation was so intense that passengers
were on the deck in their night clothes, screaming. Some
shouted to pray, and others did pray with all the fervor at
their command, especially when the carpenter, reporting that
the vessel was parting in her beams, called for men to turn
the windlass, and for kettles of hot tar, blankets, calking,
chisels, and anything to make repairs. As the wind began
to freshen, the boat headed before it, without any regard to
course. The next order was, "Down with the hatches!"

"Aye, aye, sir."

"Then sound her."

"Aye, sir."

"How is she?"

"Gaining water, sir."

It was hurry to the pumps, and the carpenter was asked,
"How is she?"

"All right, sir."

"Heave away at the windlass! Keep the pumps
going!"

The carpenter had been pinning timber across the
breach, and with windlass power preventing if possible the
seam from spreading any more until he could make it safe.
Blankets were dipped in hot tar and driven into the parting.
With these efforts and by keeping the pumps going steadily
for eight hours, the boat was partly freed from the rolling
sea, and at length was patched up and put on her course.
The captain then said that his greatest fear had been that,
as his cargo was coal, the friction of the fuel and the water
coming in below would cause the cargo to take fire. When

272 ■ LIFE OF A PIONEER.

we got righted and on our course, we had light winds, and
cold and wet weather until the voyage was ended.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

ARRIVE AT SAX FRANCISCO— A WRECKED SHIP— THE ABYSSINIA CON-
DEMNED—GATHERING WRECKAGE— DRUNKEN SAILORS— MY TRUNK
HELD FOR HOSPITAL FEES— GO ASHORE, WHERE ALL IS CHANGED
AND STRANGE— MY DILAPIDATED APPEARANCE -SEEK GUIDANCE
OF THE LORD— WANDER ALMOST IN DESPAIR— MEET AN OLD
FRIEND— FIND A HOME— MY TRUNK RELEASED— MEET ELDERS
GOING ON MISSIONS— WELL TREATED BY SAINTS AND STRANG-
ERS-PROVIDENCES OF THE LORD-OUTWARD-BOUND ELDERS
ENTRUST MONEY TO ME FOR THEIR FAMILIES— ENGAGE TO
CARRY MAIL TO LOS ANGELES-ON A STEAMER FOR SAN PEDRO-
TAKEN SEVERELY ILL.

ON January 8th, 1853, we passed into the bay of San
Francisco, where we came close to a big New York
clipper ship, fast on a rock in the passage. While we were
looking at the vessel, the tide came in and lifted it up; then
it dropped back and was smashed as if it were only a match-
box. Luckily, the ship had been there long enough to be
surrounded by boats sufficient to save the passengers, and
perhaps their baggage.

We soon dropped anchor from our dismantled bark,
which, as I afterwards learned, was condemned as being
unseaworthy, and never was allowed to go to sea again.
The seamen on our vessel went to picking up the wreckage
from the clipper ship. They chanced to catch a barrel of
whisky, when the captain ordered it to be carried below.
That made the sailors desperate. They seized an ax,
crushed the barrel head in, and each seaman dipped with
his cup. Within fifteen minutes they were wild with

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 273

drunkenness. They armed themselves with axes, hand-
spikes, belaying pins, marlinspikes, and any and everything
they could lay hold of. Then the officers, and some of
the passengers who had incurred their displeasure, were
made to hunt hiding places below in doublequick time.
That condition did not last long, however, before a com-
promise was effected, the captain took his position again,
and the men went to landing passengers and baggage. I
got my trunk ready to depart, when the captain demanded
five dollars of me, for hospital fees, he said. As I had not
so much as one dollar, I had to leave my trunk and go
ashore, very sick and cold.

When I reached the streets I found things so changed
from when I was there before that I felt lost in the throng
of people. It seemed to me that everyone was seeking his
own gain, regardless of his fellow-men. It was push, ram,
jam, on all sides. I had worn my clothes pretty well out,
my hat had been so crushed that my hair was showing in
the crown, and my shoe soles were worn very nearly off.

In this condition I asked the Lord, in silent prayer, to
show me what I should do. The Spirit said, "Go up the
street." I was then on California Street. I obeyed the
whisperings, until I got near the top of the street. With-
out any consolation the thought came, What shall I do?
The still, small Voice said, "Go up the street," and I obeyed
again.

At last, almost despairing of everything, wholly sick
and tired, suffering from lack of some refreshment, and
feeling that there was no relief for me, I saw a man start
across the street above me, and from the same side. When
he neared the center of the street, he stopped and seemed
to be looking at me. As I advanced, he turned around,
and walked back two or three steps. By this time I started
across toward him, and he came to meet me. It was
Redick N. Allred, of the Mormon Battalion.

2 74 ' LIFE OF A PIONEER.

We did not recognize each other until we went to
shake hands. He said, "How are you?" I answered,
"Tired, sick, and hungry." "Well," said he, "come back
across the street with me, to a lunch stand, and we will
have something to eat." Soon the inner man was com-
forted, when Brother Allred told me there were thirty-six
Elders in San Francisco, bound to foreign lands on missions.
He led me to some of my old friends, and I found John
Layton, whom I had been acquainted with on the Society
Islands. He told me that if I would I could come and stop
with him, and chop the wood and do the marketing; for his
wife, being an islander, could not talk English well. I ac-
cepted the kind offer, and thus was provided with a home.

I also met with Major Jefferson Hunt. We saw a
Captain King, took supper with him, and told him that the
captain of the vessel I had come on had retained my trunk
because I had not five dollars to pay the hospital fees.
Brother Badlam gave me the money to get my trunk, and
Captain King gave me a note to a custom officer. I ob-
tained my trunk after I had paid the captain of the Abys-
sinia the money, and 1 followed him up to the custom
house, to the officer there, to whom I showed Captain
King's note. The officer gave the sea captain a look, then
said something to him, and without a word more he re-
turned me the money.

I next visited the Elders, and attended meetings with
them. They had arrived several days before me, and had
sold their teams in the southern part of California. They
had also taken up some collections among the Saints.
Brother John M. Horner having been very liberal to them,
a number of them rendered me assistance.

One day, as I was passing Widow Tvins', she called to
me, and ran out to meet me, saying, "Here is ten dollars
that a lady gave me to hand to you. and here is thirty
dollars more that she wishes you to convey to that body of

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF (AMES S. BROWN. 275

Elders that is in town, to help them on their missions." I
asked the name of the lady, and the reply was, "I am not
at liberty to disclose her name." She said the lady was
not a Mormon, but had attended our meetings, and had
stated that she was unworthy to be personally known to us;
so I never learned who she was.

At one time, when I was walking along the street
alone, I was met by a stranger, who offered to shake hands
with me. As we grasped hands, he pushed a five-dollar
gold piece into mine. I said, "What does this mean?"

He replied, "None of your d d business. Take it, and

bless yourself with it. I have money due me, and if I am
successful in collecting it, I will see you again." At that
he dashed away in the busy throng, and I never saw him
more, that I am aware of.

On a still further occasion, I was met by an entire
stranger, who put a dollar in my hand and said, "Come, let
us have some good cider and cake." I begged to be ex-
cused, but he would not listen to it; I had to go with him
anyhow. We stepped to a lunch stand, where he said,
"Let this man have what he calls for; I want to catch that
man," and away he went. The proprietor asked what I
would have, and I told him I would await the return of my
friend. He said, "Never mind him, he is all right; he may
not be back again till tomorrow morning." Then he in-
sisted on my order, so I took some crackers and cider; but
I never saw my friend again. Thus it seemed to me that
great and wondrous were the mysterious providences of
the Lord, for I had landed in San Francisco on the 8th of
January, 1853, and by the 26th I had seventy-five dollars
handed to me, much of it by entire strangers whom I had
never seen before, nor have I seen them since. It seems
mysterious to me how my way opened up and my necessi-
ties were met.

The Elders outward bound treated me verv kindly.

-2j6 LIFE OF A PIONEER. ,

They fitted themselves out for their several destinations,
paid their passage, and then had some fifteen hundred dol-
lars to send to their families, with their photographs and
some small parcels, all of which they entrusted to me, with
three small trunks, to take to San Bernardino. Of the money
seven hundred and fifty dollars in gold was put into a belt
and girded around my body; the balance was in drafts or
checks.

In the meantime, some of the Elders had met with Mr.
Holliday, overland mail contractor. As he had not perfected
his arrangements for regular mail service, he made some
inquiries of the Elders about sending mail sacks by chance
carrier to Los Angeles. They referred him to me, as they
thought there would be something in it for me. He called,
and I agreed to take charge of three sacks if he would
deliver them on the steamer Sea Bird, on the morning of
the 29th. On that date he sent the sacks just as we were
putting off. He told me the pay would be all right when
the sacks were delivered.

I had paid thirty-five dollars for my passage to San
Pedro, and we steamed out. On the morning of the 30th
we landed at Monterey, and lay there till 4 p. m. During
that time I had a severe chill, followed by a very high
fever, which held on till next morning, when a heavier chill
came on, like the ague, followed by fever. I had made
my bed down on some nail kegs that were on deck; for
the boat was so crowded with passengers of all classes that
there was no possible chance for comfort. It semed that
everyone was seeking his own convenience, regardless of
his neighbor.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 277

CHAPTER XXXVII.

BECOME DESPERATELY ILL— NURSED BACK TO CONSCIOUSNESS— KIND-
NESS OF AN AGED SPANISH COUPLE— BELT WITH MONEY EN-
TRUSTED TO ME DISAPPEARS— INTENSE ANXIETY— DISCOVER THE
MONEY— GREAT SUFFERING— LAND AT SAN PEDRO— LEFT ON THE
BEACH— DRAG MYSELF TO THE SHELTER OF AN OLD WALL-
KINDNESS OF A SPANIARD AND HIS WIFE— A TERRIBLE NIGHT-
SEEK A PASSAGE TO LOS ANGELES WITH FREIGHTERS— REFUSALS
—MEET A KIND TEAMSTER-REACH LOS ANGELES— DUMPED ON
THE STREET— FIND SHELTER, BUT A CHILLY WELCOME— START
NEXT MORNING, SICK AND HUNGRY, TO FIND A NEW PLACE— SO-
ILL I HAYE TO LIE DOWN IN THE STREET— TWO FRIENDS FROM
SAN BERNARDINO— AM TOLD THAT I HAVE THE SMALLPOX— MY
FRIENDS GIVE ME MONEY AND START IN SEARCH OF A HOUSE
WHERE I CAN BE CARED FOR-F AILING TO SECURE A ROOM, THEY
ENGAGE THE CITY MARSHAL TO GET A PLACE, AND THEY LEAVE
FOR SAN BERNARDINO -I WAND ER FOR SHELTER, BUT DOORS ARE
CLOSED, AND PEOPLE AVOID ME— LODGE IN A DOCTOR'S OFFICE
WHILE THE DOCTOR IS OUT— SCARE THE PEOPLE BY SHOUTING
"SMALLPOX!"— THE DOCTOR RETURNS BUT LEAVES ME IN POS-
SESSION.

ON the voyage down from San Francisco I grew so
desperately sick that I lost my reasoning powers,,
becoming so delirious that afterwards I could only remem-
ber removing my coat and vest and turning into bed, on the
nail kegs,- with my trunks and the mail sacks about me.
The next thing that I recall was in the after part of the
day, February ist, 1853, when I began to regain conscious-
ness. There was an old Spanish gentleman and his good
old "mahara" (wife) rubbing my hands and feet, while a
big crowd, of the passengers stood around. My first
thought was: What does this mean — who am I — where
did I come from — where am I going — how did I come
here, and why are these strangers so interested in me as to
be rubbing my hands? The next thing, the old gentleman

278 TAPE OF A PIONEER. ' '

brought me some refreshments, with a cup of coffee; and
when I finally returned to consciousness I inquired what
had been the matter. I was told that I had been a
very sick man, but was much better, and would soon be
well. When the crowd were satisfied that the worst was
past thev dispersed, but the old gentleman and lady sat
near, as if to anticipate any favor I might need. Doubtless
the good old couple have been gathered home to their
fathers long ere this writing. If so, peace to their ashes;
may they in no wise lose their reward, for they adminis-
tered to the suffering stranger, although they were foreign-
ers, while my own countrymen passed rudely by.

With consciousness returned, I remembered the money
that I had in charge. I felt about my body, and to my sur-
prise and mortification the belt was gone. The next thought
I had was that I had been robbed by some one on board,
and I wondered what could be done to regain the property,
or, if it could not be recovered, how could I make amends
to the poor women and children whom their husbands and
fathers had sent it to? How could I prove my innocence
to them? By this time the mental sufferings had overcome
the physical pain, and in despair I drew the blankets close
about me. In so doing 1 felt the belt of money lying at
my back, under cover. The buckle had been ripped or cut
off, most likely the latter, for, as I learned afterwards, in
some way it was noised around that I had money..

The reaction of the mental faculties was too much for
my weak state, and I almost swooned away; but when I
fully recovered from the shock to my nerves, I rolled the
belt snugly up, and raised on my knees with my blankets
so drawn about my shoulders as to cover the front part of
the trunk. Then I placed the belt inside, at the same time
taking some article out, so as to divert the observers' atten-
tion from my real purpose; I then laid down, suffering with

AUTOBIOGRAPHY. OF JAMES S. BROWN. 279

a terrible fever, and put in one night more of great wretch-
edness.

About 3 or 4 p. m. next da)7, February 2nd, we landed
at San Pedro. There was a great rush for the shore, and
for the four or five vehicles that were in waiting. The most
of the passengers seemed to be without baggage, save a
roll of blankets or a satchel, and as the the writer had so
much and was sick, he was the last person to land. Every
vehicle was gone, and all the passengers were out of sight
before he got his baggage ashore. When this did come,
it was thrown on the beach just above high water mark.

At that early date there was not a hotel, boarding-
house, or restaurant anywhere in sight from the landing.
One wall of an old adobe warehouse stood near by, and the
only thing for the writer to do was to seek what shelter
that wall afforded. Thither he dragged his effects, then
dropped down on his bedding exhausted. He lay there
until he had excited the curiosity of a Spaniard and his
wife who were some distance away. They came down
and asked what was the matter, and as I did not know, I
could not tell them. They saw that my face was swollen
and they seemed afraid to come close, but inquired what I
wished, and if they could do anything for me. I asked
for milk and bread, which they supplied, and left me to my
fate for the night.

The experiences of that terrible night baffle the writ-
er's powers of description. Suffice it to say, he passed it
alone, with the heavy mist of the briny deep resting upon
him, while the fever and thirst seemed to be consuming his
body.

At last the morning light came through a dense fog;
but by 8 or 9 o'clock that had partly passed away.
Some freight teams came down from Los Angeles, and the
sufferer felt somewhat encouraged to think there was a
prospect of his reaching civilization at the place where he

280 LIFE OF A PIONEER-

had helped to rear the first liberty pole which was to bear
aloft the Stars and Stripes on the Pacific coast. He ac-
costed the freighters, feeling assured that he would not be
denied a passage, as he was prepared to pay for this accom-
modation. The first man said no; he had all that he could
haul. The second teamster said no, he was not doing a
passenger business. The third said, "I don't know. It is
too d — d bad to leave you here sick. I guess I can take
vou. Throw on your things if you can, and hurry about
it." When the writer made an effort to do as invited, the
freighter lent him a hand, and when the baggage was
aboard the teamster said, "Come, get on here. It's a poor
place for a sick man, away up on a goods box, among the
bows, but it's your only chance with me. Up there!" and
away we went on our journey twenty-one miles to Los
Angeles, where we arrived about 8 p. m.

Near the center of the city, on the sidewalk at a street
corner, my effects were dumped. I wandered around to
find shelter, and at last reached Jesse D. Hunter's place.
Hunter had been captain of Company B in the Mormon
Battalion, and I thought I could do no better than stop with
him, though 1 did not meet anything very inviting. I was
coldly granted the privilege of dragging my blankets into
the kitchen, and of bunking down on the dirt floor, after a
light supper of bread and milk, the first food I had had
since the night before. But I was too ill to do better, and
Mr. Hunter was so cool and indifferent that I was glad to
leave his place next morning without any further accommo-
dations.

I started out alone, and turned so sick and dizzy that
I had to lie down in the street on my blankets. While
there I was approached by Daniel Clark and James Bailey
from San Bernardino. They asked if my name was Brown,
and if I was a returning missionary. I told them yes.
They said they had heard of me, and that I had the small-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 28l

pox, so they had been searching the town for me, and hap-
pening to see me lie down in the street, they became satis-
fied they had found the object of their search. Each of
them threw me ten dollars in gold, and went in search of a
room or place where I could be cared for. Failing in find-
ing that, they called on the mayor, who started the marshal
out to hunt a place. When Clark and Bailey had done all
they could — and they were as kind as they could be — they
had the mail sacks delivered, but did not find the pay that
was to be all right on delivery. Then they went home to
San Bernardino, while I did the best I could to find shelter,
but my face was so terribly swrollen that every door was shut
against me; and when the news spread that there was a
man around the streets with the smallpox, I could have the
sidewalk to myself wherever I went.

At last I found Dr. Jones' office open, but dark and
with no one in it. I dragged my bedding through the office
to the bedroom, where I spread my blankets and turned in,
leaving the door open and lights burning. When anyone
came to the door I would shout "Smallpox!" and it was
amusing to hear the people run.

About 11 p. m. the doctor came, and I shouted "Small-
pox!" Said he: "Who is here?" I answered, "The man
whom you said had the smallpox." He responded, "All
right, but I would not have had it happen for five hundred
dollars. Be quiet, you have done just right. But how did
you get in?"

"Why, the door was open," I replied, and he said: "I
never did such a thing before in my life. It must have
been done on purpose for you, for it was not fit for you to
be out." The doctor then held his breath, stepped in over
me, took up his bed, and walked away.

18

202 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

CITY MARSHAL AND DOCTOR COME TO REMOVE ME— TAKEN TO A
DESERTED HOUSE. WHICH HAD BEEN USED AS A SHEEPFOLD
—BEDDED IN SHEEP MANURE-AN INDIAN NURSE WHO BECOMES
FRIGHTENED— SPANISH NURSE SENT TO ME— IN A BOAT WITH
PATIENT JOB— MY FEVER INCREASES— ATTACKED BY ROBBERS
—RELIEVED BY CITY MARSHAL WITH POSSE-MARSHAL TAKES
THE MONEY I HAVE IN MY CARE, FOR SAFE KEEPING— SPANISH
NURSE SCARED OFF-QUEER SAILOR NURSE— HE DRINKS WHISKY,
SINGS AND DANCES— HIS THOUGHTFUL CARE OF ME— VISITED BY
MY COUSIN— KINDNESS OF SAN BERNARDINO SAINTS— RECOVER-
ING FROM MY ILLNESS— MY CLOTHING BURNED— HEAVY EX-
PENSE BILL AGAINST ME— TELL THE CITY MARSHAL OF MY
ARRIVAL IN CALIFORNIA AS A UNITED STATES SOLDIER IN THE
MEXICAN WAR— KINDNESS OF THE MARSHAL— LOS ANGELES
ASSUMES THE BILL FOR MEDICAL ATTENTION GIVEN ME— START
FOR SAN BERNARDINO— EXHAUSTED ON THE JOURNEY— ALMOST
DIE OF THIRST— RELIEVED BY A PARTY OF SPANISH LADIES
—KINDNESS OF SPANISH FAMILIES— ARRIVE AT SAN BERNARDINO
AXD MEET FRIENDS AND RELATIVES.

EARLY next morning, the marshal and doctor were
there with suitable refreshments, and when the pa-
tient had made a feint at eating they told him they had
secured a room if he could put up with it. Sheep had been
kept in it, and it was smoked very black, but they assured
him that the conditions were favorable to recovery from the
disease. Then they took him by his arms and assisted him
into an old cart that they had standing at the door; they had
an Indian to lead the horse.

The patient could not see a particle only as he held his
eyes open with his fingers. He told them of his trunk, which
had been left all this time where the freighter had dumped
it when the writer came into town. The trunk was brought,
and the Indian led out, the marshal and doctor bringing up
the rear.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 283

When we passed the suburbs, we turned to the right,
to an old deserted adobe house of two rooms. The front
yard had been used as a sheepfold. The doors had been
broken down, and the sheep had had free access to the
rooms, until the sheep manure was some five or six inches
deep on the dirt floor. The rooms were very poorly lighted
at best; and to add to the darkness, the sheepherders had
camped in them till the whole of the inside of the rooms
was smoked as black as a stove. The doctor said it was

the best they could do, .adding: "It is too d d bad to

put you in such a place, but if you will put up with it, it
will be the very best thing for you in the end. The sheepy
smell, and the darkness, with some ointment that I will give
you, will prevent your being marked; whereas, if you were
kept in a light, clean room, you have got the disease so bad
that you would be marked all over. Then again you have
been so badly exposed that you must put up with the treat-
ment in order to recover properly, lest something else fol-
lows."

I told him that my condition was such that I was com-
pelled to submit to any treatment they saw fit to give.
Then they got some tools, removed the dry, hard packed
manure, and placed my mattress down on the dirt floor, so
that when the covering was spread ready for me it was just
level with the manure on the front, the foot, head and back
being against the walls.

Having turned in, I opened my eyes with my fingers,
and found myself in twilight, with an Indian man for a nurse.
The marshal and doctor left, saying that I should be cared
for. Then the nurse went off, and soon returned with a
custard in a coffee basin; this he said was worth fifty cents.
He brought it, and an iron spoon to eat the custard, but
when I opened my eyes in such an unnatural way, they ap-
peared so badly bloodshot that the nurse took fright and
ran away, leaving me to my fate until 5 or 6 o'clock p. m.

284 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Then an old Spaniard, who was very badly pox-marked, came
and said he had been engaged as a nurse, as the Indian was
so frightened at the disease that he would not return. The
Spaniard seemed to comprehend the conditions. He got a
Spanish roll of bread and a pint of milk for fifty cents, then
straightened up the bed and left for the night. Next
morning he was on hand to attend to my wants.

This was on February 6, 1853. The smallpox began
to appear in pustules, or rather boils; for it so resembled
the latter that I began to think of patient old Job. I was
sore from the crown of my head to the soles of my feet,
and yet it was only blisters that day, comparatively speak-
ing.

The Spanish nurse seemed to understand his business,
for as I would roll and toss, the old gentleman would tuck
the bedclothes about me, saying, "Must not let the air to
you. Must keep warm, and have warm drink, and have
the bowels moderately easy." Then he would apply the
ointment, and be as cheerful as possible, doing all that he
could to divert my mind from my sufferings.

Night came on and the blisters enlarged; I became
very sick at the stomach, and the kind old nurse stayed by
me till daylight on the 7th. The fever still raged fiercely.
Night again came, and the nurse got alarmed at seeing some
six or seven rough men, armed, approaching the house. He
hastily gathered his arms full of cobblestones, ran in and
piled them on the edge of the bed, and cried out, "Can you
fight? The robbers are coming. Murder! murder!" At
that I raised in bed, opened my eyes in the new way, and
took up a cobble rock, the nurse standing by the bed shout-
ing "Murder!"

The next moment three ruffians appeared at the parti-
tion door, in the house, while another presented himself at
the window, near the head of the bed. So far as I could
see, they were armed with revolvers and bowie knives.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 285

There must have been two or three men at the outside
door.

The shock came so suddenly that I had no time to get
thoroughly scared until I heard men running around the
northwest corner of the house. The latter noise was by
the marshal and a posse which he had summoned hastily,
for a party had been in the saloon and had heard the ruffians
say, "Let's go and rob that man who has got the smallpox,
for he has got money." It must be that some of the party
had been the ones who had ripped the belt off of me while
on shipboard, where they had been disturbed before they
had time to slip it away. Thus they had learned about the
money, and when they got to drinking and gambling, they
probably had decided on robbing the smallpox man to make
a raise, but had talked too loud for the success of their plan.
The marshal acted so promptly that they were foiled in
their plot, for when they heard him and his posse coming,
and the nurse shouting "Murder!" they fled to the southeast
and passed over into a dark, deep, brushy ravine, out of sight,
just as the marshal and party gained the south side of the
building. The officer said he saw them, but had not time
to shoot before they disappeared in the brush and dark-
ness.

The marshal came into the house and informed me of
the plot and how he came to hear of it. He said, "Now, if
you have any money or valuable papers, you had better
send for some trusty friend to come and take care of them.
I will send for anyone that you will name." I told him I
did not know of a better friend than the one who had come
to my relief, and if he, the marshal, would take care of the
valuables, I would be much obliged. He said he would take
charge of them and have them deposited for safekeeping
till I wanted them. I then handed out my memorandum
book, with the names of the men who sent the money, the
amounts, and the names of those to whom it was sent.

286 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Then, my eyes being propped open, I poured the money
on to a handkerchief they had spread over my lap. As the
money was mostly in gold ten and twenty dollar pieces, in
fifty dollar packages, it was easily and quickly counted, and
found to tally with the memoranda. Then the drafts and
checks were counted, and all put together in the belt — some
fifteen hundred dollars — and handed over to the marshal,
with Dr. Jones as witness.

When the gold was being counted out, some of the
would-be robbers appeared at the window, and doubtless
saw that the marshal was taking charge of the valuables,
by which action their plot fell through, and I was not
troubled any more. But the experience was enough for
the Spanish nurse, for the robbers undoubtedly were Span-
iards or "greasers," and if they could take revenge on him
they would do it. Some of the marshal's posse stayed till
they felt satisfied the danger was all over, then they, with
the nurse, left, and next day sent to me an old badly pox-
marked sailor for an attendant. He came in with a bottle
of whisky that he said was a hundred years old.

The first thing the new nurse said was, "Hello, old
chum! What are you doing there? Come, and have a drink
with me." The next breath he said, "No, no, for I know it
would not do for you. I will drink for you. So here goes." He
then took a liberal draught, and wanted to know what he could
do for my comfort. On being told there was nothing I
wanted just then, he said, "Let me sing you a song," and
he sang a very comical ditty. Then he said, "I'll dance a
jig for you," and at it he went. In the performance he
kicked the dry manure pretty nearly all over me and my
bed, for he was "three sheets in the wind and the fourth
fluttering" (three-fourths drunk, or more.)

When he saw what he had done, he dropped on his
knees and begged pardon, making the most humble apology.
Said he, "Never mind, old chum, just lay over to starboardr

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 287

and I will make it all right." He brushed and brushed
away, then said, "Now to larboard, and I will fix you all
right." So he pounded away, talking all the time in his
sailor phrases. Finally he partially sobered up. and it would
have been hard to find a more thoughtful and attentive nurse.
From that time on he stayed with me, told many interesting
sea stories, and sang love songs.

On February ioth my cousin, John M. Brown, who was
passing through that part of the country, came to the door
and called. "Is that you, James?" At the same time he
threw a ten dollar gold piece on the bed; but not having
had the smallpox, he dare not come in. We had not met
before in eight years. At that date I was suffering in-
tensely, if not the worst that I had done, for I was down so
weak that I could not help myself at all.

On the nth, W. G. Sherwood, of San Bernardino,
came in, saying that the Saints had raised some money for
me, and had sent him to take care of me until I was able to
come out to them. Brothers D. Clark and J. Bailey had
told President Seeley of my condition. I felt indeed very
thankful for the favors shown me.

On the 14th the smallpox had nearly died away, and
by the 19th I was considered oui of all danger, with pru-
dence. On the 20th, the doctor and marshal came and
ordered all of my bedding and a good suit of clothes that I had
on when taken down, boots, hat, and all, piled in the yard,
and there burned. They said my expenses had been five
dollars per day for the house, because of the disease and
being close to where the landlord and his family lived.
The nurses also had to be paid the same amount per day.
I told them I had been out on a long mission at my own ex-
pense, and now had so little money that it would cost me
every dollar that I had to meet the loss of my clothes and
bedding, so it was impossible for me to settle such a bill,
one hundred and forty dollars. I had paid for every article

20b LIFE OF A PIONEER.

I had used except a little medicine the doctor had fur-
nished.

The marshal and doctor said they understood that I
had come into the country as a soldier in the time of the
Mexican war. I told them that I had helped to build the
fort that overlooked the town, and that I went to San
Bernardino canyon and helped get down the first liberty pole
that ever bore the Stars and Stripes on this western coast.
At this they asked a number of questions, as if to satisfy
themselves whether or not I had told them the truth, and
when they became convinced the marshal said: "Mr. Brown,
do not make any trouble, for we will see that you do not
have to pay that bill; you are worthy of all the care that
you have had, and more too. Los Angeles will pay that,
and you are free to go on your way. We are pleased to
have made your acquaintance, and that you have recovered
so well; for your case has been a very remarkable one, to
have had the disease so badly and after being exposed as
you were, to have recovered so soon, with scarce a mark
left on you. It has been a most wonderful case, and we
congratulate you on your safe recovery, and wish you suc-
cess on your journey to Salt Lake." Of course I could not
feel otherwise than very grateful to those two gentlemen
for their kind attention and largeness of soul. Then we
bade each other good-bye and I am not conscious that we
have ever met since that day.

Brother Sherwood and I stored my trunk, put our other
effects on his poor old stallion, went down town and got my
money and some provisions and a bottle of old whisky, and
were amused to see so many people run from the smallpox,
while others stood afar off and gazed. Finally, on Febru-
ary 2 ist, we set out for San Bernardino, eighty miles, on
foot, one leading and the other punching the old horse,
which was so weak that he stumbled wherever the road
was a little rough. We only got ten miles that day.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 289

On the 22nd we proceeded on our journey another ten
miles, when it was impossible for me to go any further. I
was thoroughly exhausted, and had to lie down or drop.
We were ten miles from water, and so thirsty that it seemed
that I must die on that arid plain. Brother Sherwood, how-
ever, proved equal to the emergency. He got me on to a
pair of blankets, led the old horse up so as to cast a shadow
over me, then hastened to soak a piece of bread in some
old whisky. He gave me the bread, saying it would slake
my thirst, and stimulate me. Strange as it seemed to me, it
did so, and in a short time I was able to rise alone, and
sit up.

We had not been there a great while when we saw a
party of Spanish ladies coming in on another road, that ap-
peared to unite with the one we were on; so by an effort
we gained the junction just as they did. They stopped
their cart, and asked if we would have some wine. We
said we preferred water, and they gave us both. Seeing
that I was very ill, they invited me to ride with them, mak-
ing room so that I had a place between the two on the front
seat and rested my head and shoulders on the laps of the
two on the rear seat, while they bathed my head with water,
and urged me to take a little more wine. It did seem that
if it had not been for this most unexpected kindness I should
have died of thirst and exhaustion before we could have
reached any other source of support.

Brother Sherwood followed in the rear to where the
ladies lived, but before he came up I was helped on to a
bed in a cool room, and had some refreshments, with a cup
of chocolate. Oh, how thankful I was to those blessed
Spanish "senoritas!" When their husbands came in, they
shook hands and seemed to be pleased that their wives had
dealt so kindly with the strange American. Brother Sher-
wood soon arrived, and they unpacked his horse and took
care of it, while the women supplied him with water to bathe

29O LIFE OF A PIONEER.

his hands and face, and with refreshments. Then he and 1
retired early.

Next morning, February 23, we were served with choc-
olate and tortias (pancakes) before we were out of bed. Our
hosts had only a humble home, but so kind were they in
their attentions to us that it aroused suspicions of a large
bill to pay, but when we asked them the amount they
shrugged their shoulders Spanish fashion, and with a pleas-
ant smile said, in Spanish, "Nothing; friendship; no more."
As we bade them good-bye they said they would be pleased
for me to allow them to have the little smallpox scab that
was on my nose, if we thought it would not leave a mark,,
so they and Brother Sherwood removed it, and thought it
would not leave any pit; therefore I allowed him to re-
move it and leave it with them. Still it did leave its mark
till this day.

We proceeded on to a ranch where we met with a fourth
cousin of mine, John Garner, who kindly offered me a seat
in his wagon. He was loaded and could not start till late,
but we could reach his place before midnight, and Brother
Sherwood could push on; for when we started Sherwood
would not be able to keep up. I accepted his proposition,
and we reached his home at 11 o'clock p. m.

On the 24th I went to what they called at that time, I
believe, Fort San Bernardino. There I found many warm-
hearted friends, and a number of relatives, among them
John M. and Alexander Brown, my cousins. I made my
home with the latter, who, with his wife, was very kind to
me. I also visited many old acquaintances. My trunk I
sent for by Sidney Tanner, and he brought it from Los
Angeles free of charge.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF |AMES S. BROWN. 29]

CHAPTER XXXIX.

REPORT MY MISSION— PREPARE TO CONTINUE THE JOURNEY TO UTAH-
HAVE TO REMAIN AT SAN BERNARDINO FOR A TIME— SICKNESS
AMONG THE PEOPLE— INSTANCES OF HEALING BY ADMINISTRA-
TION—ENGAGE TO TRAVEL WITH A PACK-TRAIN TO SALT LAKE
CITY— GET A "BUCKING" MULE— START ON THE JOURNEY-IN A
HOSTILE INDIAN COUNTRY— SIGNS OF DANGER— PREPARE FOR
TROUBLE— SUDDEN APPEARANCE OF AN INDIAN— OUR PARTY
WANT TO SHOOT— I PROTEST, AND MAKE FRIENDS WITH THE
INDIAN— OTHER RED MEN APPEAR— DIFFICULTY OF RESTRAINING
OUR PARTY— I CONVERSE WITH THE INDIANS, WHO TELL OF A
CAMP OF MORMONS AND MEXICANS A SHORT DISTANCE AHEAD-
HOW I UNDERSTOOD THE INDIANS— DISCOVER THE CAMP SPOKEN
OF— REST A DAY— MOVE TOWARD THE SANTA CLARA— DANGER
AHEAD— A FIRE ACROSS OUR PATH— WE DASH THROUGH IT-
HOSTILE INDIANS— AN EXCITING CHASE— MEET APOSTLES A. M.
LYMAN AND C. C. RICH— ARRIVE AT CEDAR CITY— STOP AT PARO-
WAN— JOURNEY NORTH, PREACHING EN ROUTE— REACH SALT
LAKE CITY— SETTLE WITH THE PEOPLE FOR WHOM I HAVE
MONEY— REPORT TO PRESIDENT YOUNG— PREACH IN THE TABER-
NACLE—RELEASED FROM MY MISSION— COST OF MY MISSION TO
THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.

ON February 27th, I was called on by President Seeley
of the branch of the Church at San Bernardino, to
give a report of my mission, and I did so before the con-
gregation. On March 9th, I prepared to come home with
John and Alexander Brown, to Salt Lake City, but for
some reason they gave up the idea of traveling at that time,
and I had to await another opportunity. Then we looked
about the country, thinking that we would make some im-
provements, if we did not meet with a better chance to
come to Utan.

About this time there was a great amount; of sickness
in the place, and Elder Thomas Whitaker, from the islands,
and I had numerous calls to administer to the sick. Many

292 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

seemed to be possessed of evil spirits; certainly, if they had
lived in Mary Magdalene's day it would have been said of
them that they had seven devils in them; for the actions
were the same as in those days, and the evil spirits would
not come out except through fasting and prayer. Conse-
quently, President Seeley ordered a fast and a prayer
meeting for the Saints. It was very well attended, and
good results followed. Many people were healed of the
diseases afflicting them. One incident I will mention: There
lived in the town a man named John Brown; he had a
Spanish wife and one or two children. One evening,
Major Jefferson Hunt's wife called on me to come as
quickly as possible, for Mr. Brown's child looked as if it were
dying. 1 went in, and found the mother and child in bed
together. The little one acted as if it were choking to
death, and was fighting for breath; it gnashed its teeth and
frothed at the mouth. I anointed it with consecrated oil,
and as there was no other Elder handy I administered to
the child, when every symptom of its trouble left it imme-
diately, but seized on the mother. She raved, frothed and
foamed at the mouth, gnashed her teeth, cramped, and
seemed so ill that she could not live five minutes. Sister
Hunt anointed her with oil, and I administered to her. She
was healed that moment. An Indian woman was sitting
there sewing, and the same power that had afflicted the
child and its mother took hold of the Indian woman. By
this time another sister had stepped in, and she and Sister
Hunt raised the Indian woman up, for she had fallen over.
They called on me to lay hands on her, but I did not feel
to do so at once. I told them to wet her face and rub her
hands. They did so. and she grew worse every minute,
until I administered to her, by laying my hands upon her
and praying, rebuking the evil spirits, commanding them
in the name of the Lord to come out of her and to depart
from her and from that house, and from the houses and

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 293

homes of the Saints, and to get hence to their own home,
and trouble us no more. That moment the evil spirits left,
and did not return again. The three persons who were
afflicted were perfectly well next morning, and I never
heard of their being afflicted afterwards.

There had been a number of cases where persons had
been similarly affected, and some of them were not healed
until they had been baptized seven times in succession,
when tney were permanently cured. Indeed, there were
very many remarkable cases of healing in San Bernardino
about that time. —

On April 15th, my cousin, John M. Brown, learned
that a man named Lamper was going to start with the H &vw*
mail to Salt Lake City, and had only four men with him. / 1 5

As that was too small a number to be safe, it was ascer-
tained that if he could have three or four more he would
like it very much. He told John M. Brown that if he
would raise two or three other men, he would wait at the
mouth of the Cajon Pass for them.

As my cousin had never had any experience with pack
animals, he told me that if I would go with him and help
with the stock and packs, for that service he would furnish
everything needed en route, he knowing that I had had
experience in that line, and in the handling of wild horses
and mules.

I accepted the offer, so we made ready, and were off
on the 19th of April. We overtook the party in waiting
at the place agreed upon. The animal provided for my
saddle mule was wild, large and strong, and given to jump-
ing stiff-legged, or bucking, as it is called. It was a hard
animal to handle, and was successful in dumping its rider
three times in the fore part of the journey, to the amuse-
ment of his five comrades. We had nineteen head of ani-
mals, and traveled at the rate of fifty miles per day, for the

294 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

first half of the journey, because our route led us through a
hostile Indian country.

We stood regular turns of guard, and all went well
till the last day before we came to the Muddy. That day
we saw danger signs, of Indians. I will say now, my
friendly reader, if ever you travel in an Indian country, and
come to fresh Indian tracks, yet do not see an Indian, then
you may be sure that some red man wants a few horses
and some plunder, if, indeed, he does not want a scalp or
two to hang to his bridle-bit or surcingle. That was our
danger sign, plenty of fresh Indian tracks, where they had
rolled large boulders into the narrow passes in the road, or
gorges where the road passed through. This satisfied us
that we were in danger of an unpleasant surprise, so we
examined every firelock, made sure there was powder in
every tube, good waterproof caps on, ammunition handy,
packs securely bound, saddles well girt, and every man
prepared to act promptly in case of an attack.

At this time we were crossing from the Las Vegas to
the Muddy. I think the distance without water was sixty-
five miles, so there was no alternative for us but to press
forward to the Muddy River, were we arrived in safety
about 4 a. m., watered our stock, and got a hasty meal,
giving our animals a very short time for rest and to feed.

At daylight we began to saddle up for another start.
Just as we were ready to mount, a large, stout Indian
raised up out of the willows within bow-shot, and hal-
looed. He had his bows and arrows in hand. At that my
cousin John leveled his gun on the red man, when I seized
it and forbade anyone to shoot, as others of the party had
made ready for the worst. At that moment the Indian
held out his hand and came toward us, as if to shake hands.
Every man of the party but myself was ready and anxious
to open fire on the Indian, but I stood between him and
them until they had mounted. I told them if there was one

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 2Q5

-shot fired every one of us would be killed. The Indian
said to me that he wished to be friendly. Then I mounted
and the party started, and at the same time twenty-five or
thirty Indians, all well armed, raised up out of the brush
■within easy pistol range. My party again drew their guns,
when I told them to hold on, for the Indians were friendly,
and their object was merely to beg some food; but some of
my party were hard to control.

As my companions trotted up, I fell back with the
Indians, who talked, and I began to understand them,
although I had not been among them one day. It was
given me to understand them, and I told my companions
that I did so. I told them further, that I would stand be-
tween them and the Indians, if they would not shoot. One
said, "How do you know that they are friendly if you have
never been among them before? They are following us
up. Send them away, if you know so much about their
friendship."

The Indians told me that when the sun got to such a
position, pointing to where it would be at about 9 o'clock
a. m., we would come to a large camp of Mormons and
non-Mormons, with their families; that they had horses,
mules and horned stock, and wagons, also some sheep and
goats. There was a lot of Mexicans camped with them,
and these had pack-mules. This, and more, was told me
in the Indian dialect, and was as plain to my understanding
as if it had been spoken in my native tongue; yet my party
were slow to believe, and some of them cursed the Indians,
saying that if the black rascals were friendly, why did they
not go back, instead of following us up. Being fearful that
our party could not be restrained much longer, I halted and
talked with the Indians, telling them I was afraid my
friends would shoot them unless they fell back, and ceased
to follow up so closely. The Indians replied that I would

296 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

soon learn that what they had said was true, as they did
not talk two ways.

Just then we saw a Mexican come dashing down the
hillside towards us. When he came to us and shook hands,
then confirmed what the Indians had told me, my cousin
John said, "I believe Jim does understand the Indians, for
he understands the Spanish language, and the Spaniards
have told him just what the Indians have said. I believe
he is half Indian, or he would not be so friendly with and
understand them so well."

Soon we came to a raise, from which we could see the
camps, just as they had been described to us minutely in
the morning, by the Indians, who followed us up to the
camps, and with pride pointed out to us everything they
had spoken of, saying, "We do not lie." I believe that our
party had become satisfied that the Indians had made the
signs seen on the road the day before, and then had laid in
ambush to intimidate us, that they might get something to
eat, for they were very closely run for food; again, it may
have been that they meant more serious things and were
deterred therefrom by learning of the approach of the com-
pany we found in camp.

At any rate we felt safer to lay by with the camp
one day, and rest ourselves and stock; then we proceed-
ed over a big dry bench to the Rio Virgen, then
up that river and across another high plateau to Beaver
Dam. From there we crossed another high rolling country
of some forty miles or more, to Santa Clara. When we
got half way across we saw a signal smoke, apparently on
the Santa Clara where the road comes to that stream, or
perhaps a little above. Feeling conscious of our weakness,
we watched the smoke with no little concern, and as I had
had considerably more acquaintance with the red men than
any others of the party, I told them that from the way the
fire was managed there was mischief ahead, and we must

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 297

prepare for the worst. Our animals were thirsty and well
jaded, yet there was no choice for us but to brave the
danger ahead. Then the examination of firelocks and the
cinching of saddles was in order. That matter, however,
was delayed so long as we felt safe.

When the preparation was made, and the smoke had
grown denser, we advanced and saw that the streak of
fire was in the narrows of the canyon. It extended from
cliff to cliff, and evidently was made in a scheme of plunder
or massacre, most likely both. Under the circumstances,
we were compelled to run the gauntlet, so it was hastily
decided for me to lead the way, I agreeing to do this if the
party would obey my orders, and not fire until I did, or
gave the command to them. If I gave the warwhoop they
were to do the same. The first order was to draw weapons
for action, then charge with all possible speed. Away we
went, and as we neared the flames we chose the most open
spot, or that which seemed freest of fire. Although there
was a continuous stream of flames clear across the canyon,
some places were freer than others. We chose the place
where the least fire was, the flames there being not more
than two or two and a half feet high. If the timber in the
canyon had been larger, it might have afforded the Indians
a better opportunity, but instead of secreting themselves in
the bottom of the ravine, they had chosen the cliffs on
either side.

Just before we reached the fire, we urged our animals
up to the best speed, and, raising as big a warwhoop as we
were capable of, and brandishing our firearms in the most
threatening manner, we dashed through. At the same
time, the Indians showed themselves in the cliffs with
drawn bows, trying to take aim through the timber. They
answered our whoop or yell, and gave chase, but they
being on foot, and our animals having become thoroughly
frightened at the sudden change that had taken place and

2g8 life of a pioneer.

with the evergoading spurs of their riders, rushed on ahead.
Though very thirsty, our animals never attempted to drink,
although we crossed the stream a number of times. For
fully five miles we never slackened our speed, the Indians
keeping in sight of us for fully that distance, when
they gave up the chase. Then our stock and ourselves
quenched our thirst, and we continued on at as good a
speed as was consistent with our conditions. Finally we
met Apostles Amasa M. Lyman and C. C. Rich, with two
or three wagons and twelve or fourteen men, mostly
mounted. As it was camp time, we made a joint camp,
and had no more trouble. If an arrow had been shot at us,
we did not know it, though there may have been a hundred
or more. We did not think it advisable to try to ascertain,
as we felt that our scalps were more precious than this in-
formation, or than money or horseflesh. It was distance
between us and the scalping-knife of the red men that we
were hunting for just then. •

We stood double guard that night, and all passed off
peacefully. Next morning, each party proceeded on its way
in peace, we to Cedar Fort, or city, where we arrived May
5th. and met with many friends. We attended meeting
with the people, I was called on to give an account of my
mission, and did so.

On May 6th, we proceeded to Parowan, and as it
was considered safe from there on, my counsin John M.
Brown and I stopped there with friends we had not seen
for years. The rest of the party, having the mail in charge,
went ahead, and we tarried one week, being royally treated.
I preached two or three times. We resumed the journey
on the 15th. In passing along, I preached in most of the
towns where we stayed over night.

When wre came to Lehi, I commenced to settle with
the people whom I had money for, then went on to Little

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 299

Cottonwood and settled with more, then to Big Cotton-
wood, where I found still others for whom I had money.

On May 22nd we arrived in Salt Lake City, and
stopped with our uncle, Alexander Stephens. On the 23rd,
I called at President Brigham Young's office and reported
m37self and mission. He received me very kindly, and
welcomed me home again. I also met Brothers H. C.
Kimball and Jedediah M. Grant, a number of the Twelve
Apostles, and other prominent men. All were very courte-
ous, and expressed pleasure at my safe return.

On the 24th and 25th, I called and settled with all I
had money, checks, or drafts for, and I found them all well,
and much pleased to get the needed relief, financially. On
the 26th, as I desired to go to Ogden City, 1 called at Presi-
dent Young's office to bid him good-bye. He kindly invited
me to come to the stand in the Tabernacle on June 7th, to
preach. I did so, though it delayed me in my intended
visit to my friends and relatives in Ogden City. When I
filled that call, I was honorably released from further labors
in the missionary field at that time. My mission had occu-
pied three years and eight months, and cost me every dol-
lar that I had when I started out. I was then worth fifteen
hundred dollars in good property, which I spent; but I
never regretted it. The experience that I had gained I
counted worth much more than the money expended.

iOO LIFE OF A PIONEER.

CHAPTER XL.

TRAVEL OX FOOT TO OGDEN— WELL RECEIVED RY RELATIVES AND
FRIENDS— REPLY TO INQUIRIES BY THE PEOPLE REGARDING THE
SOCIETY ISLANDS AND THE INHABITANTS THEREOF— CALLED TO
GO TO FORT HALL— ORDER COUNTERMANDED— CALLED ON A MIS-
SION TO THE INDIANS— DESIGN OF THE MISSION— ORGANIZATION
OF THE COMPANY, AND START FROM SALT LAKE CITY— HARD WORK
OF THE JOURNEY— ATTACKED BY WOLVES— FATAL DUEL AT FORT
BRIDGER— PLANS OF DESPERADOES— WE GO TO SMITH'S FORK-
BUILD A BLOCKHOUSE— ARRIVAL OF MORE MEN AND SUPPLIES-
THREATENING ATTITUDE OF THE INDIANS— WRITER MADE SER-
GEANT OF THE GUARD AND QUARTERMASTER— INSTRUCTIONS
FROM ELDER ORSON HYDE— LIFE IN OUR NEW CAMP— COLD
WEATHER AND WILD BEASTS— LEARNING THE INDIAN LANGUAGE
—GIVE SHELTER TO INDIANS— DESPERADO CHIEF KILLED BY ONE
OF HIS MEN— ANIMALS PERISH FROM COLD AND STARVATION— TER-
RIFIC STORMS AND SNOWDRIFTS— SAVING OUR STOCK— SHOSHONE
INDIANS ASK FOR AND RECEIVE ASSISTANCE— HUNT FOR ANTE-
LOPE FAILS— A BACHELOR'S DANCE— RAISING A LIBERTY POLE-
PARTITIONING OUT LANDS— PLOWING AND PLANTING— ARRIVAL OF
AND INSTRUCTIONS BY ELDER ORSON HYDE— SELECTIONS FOR
A SPECIAL MISSION TO THE INDIANS— ORGANIZATION OF GREEN
RIVER COUNTY.

ON June 9, 1853, I started to Ogden City, afoot and
alone. On the 10th, I paid out the last quarter of a
dollar that I had to the ferryman, to set me across the
Weber River, at East Weber. From there I crossed the
hills to my Uncle John Stephens', and found him and his
family well and pleased to see me. I reciprocated the-
pleasure, had dinner and a short visit, then went on to
Ogden City, where I again met with Cousin John M.
Brown and his father's family, and our two aunts, Polly
and Nancy Brown; as also more relatives and former
friends, all of whom treated me with much kindness, and
as if the lost had been f ound.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 3OI

The first Sabbath after my arrival in Ogden, I was
called on to give a report of my mission, and to preach.
By doing this, there was a great spirit of inquiry excited
about the Society Islands and their inhabitants. I found
that scarce one in a thousand of the people had the re-
motest idea of affairs on the islands I had been to. The
questions asked and the answers given were about like
this:

Q. Where are the islands?

A. In the South Pacific Ocean.

Q. What are they like?

A. The spur of a mountain in a vast plain.

Q. What are the chief products?

A. Cocoanuts, oranges, lemons, limes, citrus fruits,
arrowroot, sweet potatoes or yams (a species of potato that
takes about eighteen months to mature), coffee, cotton, chili
pepper, corn, rice, tobacco, sugarcane; a root called taro
grows in the swamps and somewhat resembles the Indian
turnip that grows in the Middle States, and on the islands
is cultivated for food, being one of the most staple prod-
ucts; breadfruit grows in great abundance; there is a
fruit called viappJe and another called doava, neither of
which is of much importance. There are also pineapples,
bananas, and a fruit called feii which grows on a plant like
the banana, and is one of the best and most generally used
fruits there.

Q. Is the soil rich?

A. Yes; but this is limited to small strips along the
coasts and the water courses.

Q. What kind of a climate is it?

A. Very hot. Papeete, the capital of Tahiti, is. in
seventeen degrees thirty-two minutes south latitude, and
one hundred and forty-four degrees thirty-four minutes
west longitude, computed from Greenwich, and if it were
not for the frequent rains, southerly breezes, and the con-

302 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

stant trade winds, it would be almost impossible for human
beings to live there.

Q. What kinds of timber grow there?

A. Various kinds of scrubby timber not known in
our country, chief of which is hutu or tamana, an excellent
timber for shipbuilding, and for fine furniture; there is also
sandal wood, the heart being of great value, as it is used
for perfume, and decorating musical instruments, work-
boxes, etc.

Q. Having given a brief description of the islands
composing the Society group, the Tubuoi and Tubuoimono
archipelago, and of their principal products, the next ques-
tion was: What kind of people inhabit them?

A. They are very large in stature, are brave, and
formerly were very warlike. Their complexion is like that of
the American Indian, and their habits are much the
same. They are hospitable to a fault. In their heathenish
days, they were idol-worshipers and very devout. Origin-
ally, their government was patriarchal, but as they increased
it became tribal, then confederate. A district of country
called monteina would combine for war purposes, and finally
would become a monarchy. Thus they had their kings
and queens, and began to have royalty. As to other mat-
ters, there are no native animals, but of fowls there are
such as sea birds, and the common wild duck; also of rep-
tiles, a small, harmless, greenish lizard. The greatest in-
sect pests are the nimble flea and the common mosquito, in
numberless quantities. Many years ago the people had
the smallpox, and as it was a strange disease to them, and
they were without the knowledge of how to treat it, they
died by hundreds, if not by thousands. As soon as they
learned that it was contagious, the people fled to the
mountains, and there hid away until their swine and chick-
ens went wild, in which state these increased, producing
the wild boar and wild chickens, which are frequently

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 303

A TYPICAL TAHITIAN WITH HIS BURDEN OF BREAD FRUIT AND FEII.

304 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

hunted by the people, and which, but for the rugged fast-
nesses of the mountains, soon would become extinct.

I will leave that subject now and return to my own
experiences after getting home. I turned my hand to farm
labor, and anything I could get to do until the 6th of Sep-
tember. Then Major Moore, having received orders from
Governor Young to raise a company of men and send
them north to Fort Hall, to protect or assist a company
there on some business, called me to take charge of that
company. When we were within three hours of start-
ing, the order to go was countermanded, and I continued
to work for two dollars per day until the 8th of October,
when, at a general conference, I was called, with several
others, to take a mission to the Indian tribes east of the
Salt Lake valley.

Elder Orson Hyde was chosen to lead the company to
somewhere in the region of the Green River, select a place,
and there build an outpost from which to operate as peace-
makers among the Indians, to preach civilization to them,
to try and teach them how to cultivate the soil, to instruct
them in the arts and sciences if possible, and by that means
prevent trouble for our frontier settlements and emigrant
companies. We were to identify our interests with theirs,
even to marrying among them, if we would be permitted
to take the young daughters of the chief and leading men,
and have them dressed like civilized people,, and educated.
It was thought that by forming that kind of an alliance we
could have more power to do them good, and keep peace
among the adjacent tribes as also with our own people.

It was known that there were wicked and cruel white
men among the Indians, working up the spirit of robbery
and murder among the savage tribes, and against the Mor-
mon people. Our missionary call was to take our lives in
our hands,, as true patriots, and head off, and operate as far
as possible against the wicked plots of white men who

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 30$

were trying to carry their plans to success through the In-
dians, and possibly set the savages on the war path, that
the government might send troops out, and thus make a
better market for the schemers' herds of cattle and horses.

From the October conference I returned to Ogden
City, settled what little business I had, and prepared for
the mission, going to Salt Lake City on the 18th, ready for
the work assigned me. There I reported myself, but the
majority of the men who had been called at the same time
that I was were not ready until the ist of November, when
we met in the Council House, and there effected an organ-
ization.

It was in the evening, about 8 o'clock, when we met. /xjC^P
There were thirty-nine men who reported themselves ready /y^^o,
to start next morning. November 2nd. Elders Orson Hyde,
Parley P. Pratt and Ezra T. Benson, of the Twelve Apos-
tles, were present, and organized the company by appoint- v .y*^.
ing Elders John Nebeker president and captain, John Har-
vey first counselor and lieutenant and James S. Brown
second counselor and lieutenant. The captain and lieuten-
ants were so that we might act in a military capacity if
necessity required it, and the president and counselors were
for ecclesiastical affairs. The officers were blessed and set
apart by the three Apostles named. The Apostles told the
members of the company that they would be blessed
equally with the officers if they would be prayerful, do
their duty, and hearken to and be united with their officers.
We were also told that some of us might have to take
Indian wives.

On November 2nd twenty wagons, with one hundred
and ten head of cattle, horses and mules, were ready for a
start. To each man there was three hundred pounds of
flour, seventy-five pounds of seed wheat, and forty pounds
of seed potatoes. Each man fitted himself up with such
other provisions and seed as he chose or could do. We

306 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

started out at i o'clock p. m., and that night camped in
Emigration Canyon.

We crossed the Little Mountain on November 3rd»
Having to double teams, we made slow headway, and only
got to within four miles of the Big Mountain. On the 5th,
we crossed that, and camped at its eastern base. The road
was very bad, so that we made but few miles on the 6th,.
and camped in the foothills, where our stock was attacked
about 3 o'clock a. m. by a pack of big gray wolves, which
were so savage that every man had to be called out to fight
them. The night was very dark, and we fired guns, built
fires in a circle around the stock, and stayed with them till
daylight. Yet, with all that, some of the milch cows had
part of their udders torn off, while others were badly
gashed as by a sharp knife. By hard work we succeeded
in preventing the wolves killing any of our animals, and
then got an early start on the morning of the 7th.

As we were heavily loaded, and the roads very roughr
we did not reach Fort Bridger until November 15th. At
that place there were twelve or fifteen rough mountain
men. They seemed to be very surly and suspicious of usr
and the spirit of murder and death appeared to be lurking in
their minds. Many of our party could feel that terrible
influence and made remarks about it. It was not long till
we wrere informed by some of the party at the fort that
two men there had fought a duel the night before with
butcher knives, and both were killed. The others of the
party had dug a hole and had thrown both men into it as
they had fallen and died — clasped in each other's arms.
Thus the gloom and cloud of death that we had felt so
plainly was partially explained. We passed one and a half
miles above the fort, and camped on Black's Fork. That
night it snowed about six inches.

We learned from the men at Fort Bridger that fifteen
or twenty mountain men had moved over on to Henry's

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF |AMES S. BROWN. 307

Fork, and that the Ute Indians were coming over there to
winter. That was the place we were heading for. and
some of the roughest men of the mountains were claiming
that as their country. Our information now being that
there was a well-organized band of from seventy-five to a
hundred desperadoes in the vicinity of Green River, at the
very point that we had hoped to occupy with our little com-
pany, the situation was serious; and with snow on the
ground, to decide what to do was an important matter.
We broke camp and passed over the divide to Smith's
Fork. There the Spirit seemed to forbid us going any
farther, and we held a short consultation, which resulted in
the appointment of a committee of five, of which the writer
was one.

This committee followed up the creek to a point where
the water comes down through the foothills, and there, be-
tween the forks of the stream, selected a spot for winter
quarters, and to build a blockhouse. Then they returned
and made their report, which was accepted by the captain
and his men. The camp was moved to the chosen ground
on November 27th. We at once pitted our potatoes, the
committee named being retained to draft and superintend
the erection of the blockhouse. The writer made the
plans of the blockhouse, which was built with four wings,
or rooms, of equal size; these, uniting at the corners,
formed a center room, which was built two stories high.
All the rooms were provided with port holes, the center
being used for storage, and the upper for a guardhouse,
from which the country around could be overlooked. The
plan being accepted, every man went to work with a will,
and in two weeks the house was ready for occupancy.
This was not an hour too soon, for the weather was very
cold and threatening.

On the 26th, Captain Isaac Bullock came in with fifty-
three men and twenty-five wagons. When they joined us

308 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

our company was ninety-two strong, all well armed; and
wrhen our blockhouse was completed we felt safer than
ever. The work of building was continued until all were
comfortably housed in log cabins, and a heavy log corral
was constructed for our stock in case of an emergency.

We had not been settled down long, when some of the
mountaineers paid us a visit and applauded our energy and
enterprise. Notwithstanding that, we could easily discern
a feeling of envy on their part. In consequence, we did
not feel any too safe, especially when the snow became
deep between our friends and ourselves, for we frequently
heard that the Ute Indians, then a very warlike and hostile
tribe, were threatening' to come upon us from the east, by
an open country. Under the circumstances, we could see
the wisdom of our military organization; and as we had to
have a regular guard, we found that we must have a ser-
geant thereof; accordingly, the author was elected to fill that
position, and as we had several beef cattle and other provis-
ions in common, a commissary or quartermaster was nec-
essary, and the sergeant was called to fill that position
also. We further perfected our organization by electing a
captain for every ten men. We were also instructed to
keep our firearms in perfect order, and to have our powder
dry, that we might be prepared for any emergency. Thus
provided for, we continued to get out fencing limber, and
exploring parties were sent out, which acted as scouts, and
we learned the resources of the country, and sought out
every advantage.

It was on December 8 when Apostle Orson Hyde
came into camp. He preached to us that evening, and
gave many words of encouragement. On the 9th he ex-
amined our work and defenses. He was highly pleased
with the country, and applauded our choice of location;
in fact, he seemed generally well pleased with what we had
done. He preached again, and gave us much cheer and

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 3O9

sound instructions. We prepared our mail in answer to the
one he had brought us, and on the ioth he set out on his
return trip, every one feeling blessed by his visit.

In our religious and social arrangements, we held regu-
lar meetings, had lectures on different subjects, organized
a debating society, and had readings. On December 26,
F. M. Perkins and a party returned from Salt Lake City,
bringing much interesting news, and also supplies of food.
On the 28th, the weather was so cold that we had to aban-
don outdoor work.

Wolves became troublesome to our stock, so we put
strychnine and set traps for the wild beasts, which killed
several head of cattle and one of the strongest horses in
our band. The wolves were very numerous, and when
they band, as they do sometimes, and did then, it is almost
impossible for any kind of stock to escape without some
loss. Yet, with rifle, trap and poison, we kept about even
with our ravenous enemies.

January 1, 1854, tne weather was fine. On the 5th
cold and storms came, and we also heard more threatening
news from the Ute Indians; but this did not alarm us much,
though it prompted us to increased diligence in looking
after our stock. There was some dissatisfaction about
guard duty, as some thought there was too much of it to
suit them, and felt that others should stand two hours to
their one; but that was soon settled and we continued our
studies in the Shoshone Indian dialect, having Elisha B.
Ward, an old mountaineer and trapper, and his Indian wife,
Sally, to assist us. Then there was an Indian family of
four who got starved out and came to us for help. We
took them in, fed them, and gave them a room to them-
selves. Then Sally's brother, Indian John, and his wife,
Madam, came, so that we took them in and fed them. This
condition afforded us increased facilities for studying the
Shoshone dialect, which we carefully availed ourselves of.

3IO LIFE OF A PIONEER.

About this time, Louis Tromley, a Frenchman, stabbed
Samuel Callwell. The affair took place near Fort Bridger.
Callwell was said to be at the head of the gang of desper-
adoes who plied their vocation from Bridger to Green
River, and back on the emigrant route to Laramie; he was
a large, trim built man, about six feet six inches tall, and
very daring. But after a bowie knife was plunged into his
vitals he did not survive long, dying in about twenty-four
hours from the time he received the fatal wound. Tromley
was one of Callwell's band, and made his escape. It was
thought by some that if his victim had lived he would have
made trouble for us, but this quarrel gave the gang some-
thing else to do.

We continued our labors and studies; yet with all the
opportunities at hand, there were only about six of us out
of the ninety-two that made even fair progress in learning
the Indian tongue. On February 7> we received more
mail. About the 22nd we lost many of our cattle from
starvation and cold. Deep snows fell, and drifted so that
our houses were completely buried, and from the south
side we could walk right up on top of our cabins, while on the
north the snow drifted to the tops of the doors, and packed
so hard in one night that it had to be cut out with the
spade, the large chunks being laid back on the floor until
we could get out far enough to clear the houses. This
condition continued for many days. On March 8, the wind
blew fearfully, and the snow drifted so deep that we had to
break snow roads, and then drive our poor cattle and
horses from point to point where the snow had been blown
off, leaving the grass bare. In this way many of our ani-
mals were saved.

On the 1 2th of March, a party of fifteen or twenty
Shoshone Indians came and pitched camp close to the
blockhouse. They were very hungry, and we divided
bread with them, that being the only kind of food we had

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 311

left; and in turn their presence afforded us better opportu-
nity to study their language and customs, a knowledge of
the latter being essential to the successful interpreter. On
March 18, more hungry Indians came. They appeared
almost starved, and they begged until they became a nuis-
ance; yet we divided with them, and ran ourselves short
before our store could be replenished. On the 27th we
turned out on a general hunt for antelope; at this time we
were living on bread and water. Our hunt failed, as it was
probable the starving Indians had killed or run off all the
game from that part of the country. On the 29th the
weather was still blustery, with heavy snow. We cleared
the blockhouse, and had a jolly dance, to drive dull care
away. There being no ladies to join with us, we christened
it the bachelor's dance.

April 1st came, and we cleared the snow and ice from
our houses. On the 5th we received another mail from
Salt Lake City, and on the 6th we hoisted the first liberty
pole that was raised in Green River County to spread the
Stars and Stripes of the United States of America to the
mountain breeze. On the 17th there was continuous snow
and rain, making very disagreeable weather. Committees
were appointed to select and stake off the farm land, the
writer being on one of the committees. We also placed out
picket guards and chose men to herd our stock, and corral
them at night. On the 18th we started the plows, marking
to each mess their portion, as the committee had been di-
rected to do. From the 23rd to the 26th we had cold,
snowy weather.

On the 28th President Nebeker and C. Merkley started
for Salt Lake City, and on May 1st D. R. Perkins and
some others left for their homes. The rest of the company
continued to plow and plant. On the 7th it snowed, and on
the 8th Apostle Orson Hyde came with twenty-five new
men, bringing us a fresh supply of provisions. This supply

312 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

was very much appreciated, for we were, and had been for
some weeks, living on bread alone. The new company
also brought our mail. I had eleven letters, all containing
good news from home.

Elder Hyde preached to us on the evening of the 9th,
and we had good cheer; everyone seemed to be encour-
aged. We also held a council meeting to select Elders to
go to the Indian camps, and learn as near as possible the
feeling of the red men, and their movements, and to carry
out the object of our mission. In that meeting, Elder Hyde
called on the council for four or five Elders to volunteer to
go east and hunt up the Indian camps. There were seven
volumeered, namely, E. B. Ward, Isaac Bullock, John
Harvey, J. Arnold, W. 8. Muir, James S. Brown and one
other whose name I have lost. Elder Hyde said that E.
B. Ward, Isaac Bullock, and James S. Brown were three
accepted from that list, while James Davis was taken for
the fourth. The persons named were then sustained by
the vote of the council, without a dissenting voice. Elder
Hyde gave us some instructions, and said the party would
start in one week from that day, or as much sooner as they
chose.

The council meeting then adjourned, and Judge W. L
Appleby organized the county of Green River by appoint-
ing the officers therefor, Mr. Appleby having been duly
commissioned as judge, and authorized to act in the capac-
ity in which he did.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 313

CHAPTER XLI.

SET APART BY ELDER HYDE FOR OUR SPECIAL MISSION— BLESSING
CONFERRED ON THE WRITER — DISCONTENT IN CAMP— UNITY
AGAIN PREVAILS— START ON OUR JOURNEY— WARNED AT GREEN
RIVER TO GO NO FARTHER— NOT DETERRED FROM PERFORMING
OUR MISSION — PROCEED ON OUR JOURNEY — FUTILE CHASE
AFTER BUFFALO — SCARCITY OF WATER — A WELCOME SNOW
STORM— REACH THE CAMP OF WASHAKIE, THE SHOSHONE CHIEF
—RECEIVED WITH CAUTION— TELL THE CHIEF THE OBJECT OF
OUR VISIT— GIVE HIM BREAD AND SUGAR— BOILED BUFFALO FOR
AN EPICURE— INDIAN POWWOW CALLED— PROCEEDINGS AT THE
COUNCIL -OBJECTION TO ONE OF OUR PROPOSITIONS, WHICH WE
WERE NOT ANNOYED AT — RECITAL OF HOW GOVERNMENT
AGENTS SOUGHT TO SUPPLANT WASHAKIE AS CHIEF— WASHAKIE
A GREAT ORATOR.

ANOTHER meeting was held on the ioth of May, and
Elder Hyde preached again. Then he called on those
who had been selected for the mission, told us to be wise as
serpents and harmless as doves, to be cautious and do all
the good that we could to the red men, and said that God
would bless us. He also said, "I do not know which to
appoint for the leader, Brother Brown or Brother Bullock.
They are both good men, but as Brother Bullock is the
eldest, he may have more experience." He then blessed
us, and promised me in my blessing that angels should go
before me, the visions of the Lord should be open to my
view, and no weapon that was raised against me should
prosper, but that I should go forth in the power and demon-
stration of the Lord God, and be mighty in gathering Israel.
Then he further instructed the party, and turned again to
me, pronouncing more blessings in line with those he had
given. Elder Hyde then started on his return trip home, and
20

314 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

we prepared ourselves as speedily as consistent for our ex-
pedition into a country mostly unknown to us.

April nth and 12th were blustery, and there was snow.
A reaction of spirit took place among the brethren of the
camp, or probably it would be more proper to say that
another spirit came upon the camp — a spirit of great dis-
content. For a time it seemed as if it would break up
the mission, but finally it was overcome, and all went well
again.

On the 13th of April we set out on our journey, and
went to Green River the first day, through rain and sleet
part of the time. At Green River we found about thirty of
the roughest kind of mountain men, engaged in drinking,
gambling and carousing. Some Frenchmen, Mexicans or
"Greasers," Indians, half-breeds, and some Americans of a
low class, associated there, and insisted on us dining with
them, and were very hospitable. They warned us not to
venture any farther in the direction that we were going, say-
ing that if we did so we would not return alive — that there
would not be a "grease spot" left of us. This statement
corresponded with what we had heard before, yet it did not
deter us. There were in the crowd, Joshua Terry, also four
Spaniards from the west, bound for Taos, New Mexico.
They joined us, ana we crossed the river, which was so
deep that it was all that we possibly could do to ford it.
The venture was harder than we expected it to be, but we
succeeded, and struck out for the head of Bitter Creek, via
Pilot Butte, making all the distance consistent with the con-
dition of our animals. When we reached Bitter Creek, we
followed up to the head, then bore to the southeast, cross-
ing a high, dry country, for two days without water, then
came in sight of a small herd of buffalo.

The Mexicans, with Ward and Davis, gave chase to
the herd, while Bullock and I kept on our course with the
pack animals, guided across the plains by mountain peaks

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 315

and openings in the range of mountains. The hunters did
not rejoin us until the latter part of the next day. The}7
succeeded in killing one poor buffalo bull, and were so
thirsty that they opened the tripe and drank the liquid it
contained, to save their lives, for they were so far gone as
not to be able to bring any portion of the carcass to camp.
That day we came across a shallow pool of water, where
we rested a short time.

We had been told that by crossing the country in the
direction we were going we would be sure to strike the
Indian trail leading in toward the headwaters of the Platte
River; consequently we continued on till we came to the
main divide between the waters of the east and the west.
There Joshua Terry and the Spaniards parted with us, and
we kept along on the divide, or summit of the Rock}7
Mountains, between the Platte and the Rio Grande, while
they passed over. That night we camped on the divide,
and had a snowstorm on us, in which we were fortunate, as
lay that means we obtained water for ourselves and animals.
The next day we struck the trail of a few Indians, and by
following it up five or six miles reached another trail which
it ran into. This we continued to follow until 3 p. m., when
we came to the camp of Washakie, the Shoshone Indian
•chief.

The first Indian we met would not speak when we accost-
ed him. He shook his head, and pointed to the chief's lodge.
That spirit of "mum" seemed to pervade the entire camp, and
when we rode up in front of the chief's lodge, that Indian
•dignitary came out, bowed, and shook hands with each one
of us, but without uttering a word. By gestures he invited
us to dismount, come in, sit down, and tell the truth regard-
ing our errand to his camp, but no lies. Then he had some
■clean, nice robes spread for us: At the same time his
women folks came out, taking our horses by the bits. We
.dismounted, and took seats as invited. The chief and our-

316 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

selves were all "mum" until the horses had been unsaddled,
and everything belonging to us had been put under the bot-
tom of the lodge, just to the rear of where we sat.

These proceedings being over, the chief said: "Who
are you, from where do you come, and what is your errand
to my country?" Then, by gestures, he said, "Tell me the
truth; do not tell me any lies, nor talk any crooked talk."
Here he paused, and, by motions, invited us to reply.

We told him we were Mormons, from the Salt Lake
country, sent by the big Mormon captain, to make the ac-
quaintance of him and his people, that we might talk and
be friendly with them, as we wished them to be friendly
with us and with all good people, as also with all the
Indian tribes, for we all had one Peap (father), and it was
not pleasing to Him to see His children nabitink (fight).
We said the Great Father had told our chief many things
about all the Indian tribes, and one part of our business
was to learn better the Indian dialects, manners and cus-
toms, so that we could tell the Indians what the Great Spirit
had told our big captain about them. Another part was to
warn them that it would not be many snows before the
game of their country would be killed off or disappear, and
we wished to tell them, and to show them how to till the
earth, and raise stock, and build houses, like the white man
did, so that when the game was all gone their wives and
children would not starve to death. We said that some of
us might want to come out into his country and marry some
of their good daughters and rear families by them. We
would educate them, so they could read some good books
that we had, and from them they could learn more about
the Great Father, or Spirit.

Washakie sat and listened very attentively until we
were through, when he said, "Wait a while. My little
children are very hungry for some of the white man's food,
and they want some sugar."

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 317

At that we gave him all the bread and sugar we had.
He passed it to his wife, who in turn distributed it to the
hungry little ones. Then, without another word, the chief
walked out, but soon returned. His wife then set a camp
kettle partly filled with buffalo beef that had been partially
dried.

If I should tell the stranger to Indian customs how it
was seasoned, I doubt not he would say, "I could not eat
of such food. I know I. should starve to death first." But
stop, my friend, do not be too positive about that. These
Indians have a custom among them that when they kill a
buffalo they skin it, leaving the carcass on the hide; then
they slice the flesh in long strips, remove the bones, turn
the contents of the tripe over the meat, thoroughly knead
or mix it all through the beef, and, with a slight shake, hang
the meat on a horse rope or lay it on some sticks for a few
hours; then they put it into a camp kettle and boil it, when
it is ready for their guests. Such was part of the life on
the great western plains in 1854.

Supper over, the council of the camp began to file in;
the pipe was lit, and a rude figure of some of the planets
ets drawn in the ashes of the fire that occupied the center
of the lodge. Then the old man sitting on the left of the
chief held the pipe, we having been seated on the right of
the chief. The latter commenced, and told the story of
our visit, from the time we came into the lodge up to that
moment. It was told without interruption, and then the
pipe was started on its way, following the course of the sun.
Every man except the one holding the pipe put his hand over
his mouth, and sat perfectly silent and still. The one with
the pipe took from one to three long draws, allowing the
smoke from the last one to escape gradually through his
nostrils, at the same time passing the pipe with his right
hand to the next person; then, if he had anything to say, he
did it in as few words as possible, and put his hand over

318 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

his mouth, thus signifying that he had no more to say. Oc-
casionally some old man, when he took the pipe, made some
signs above and in front of him, struck himself on the breast
and offered a few words of prayer. Thus the pipe was
whiffed by all the Indians of the council, and was then
passed into the hands of the white men, who, in turn, took
a whiff as a vow of peace and friendship. Then the pipe
went to the chief, who glanced around the circle, and, as
every man's hand was over his mouth, the chief summed
up the subject in a few words, but always to the point.
There being no appeal from this decision, it is usual at the
conclusion of councils for some one present to walk through
the camp and cry aloud that portion intended for the public,
or if it is an order for the whole camp, they get it in the
same way. This crier was called the high ranger of the
camp.

In our case, the only objection that was raised to our
proposition was when we suggested that some of us might
want to take some of the young Indian women for wives.
One old and wise counselor said, "No, for we have not got
daughters enough for our own men, and we cannot afford
to give our daughters to the white man, but we are willing
to give him an Indian girl for a white girl. I cannot see
why a white man wants an Indian girl. They are dirty,
ugly, stubborn and cross, and it is a strange idea for white
men to want such wives. But I can see why an Indian
wants a white woman." Then the old man drew a graphic
picture of the contrast he was making, and we gave up that
point without pursuing our suit farther. Chief Washakier
however, said the white men might look around, and if any
one of us found a girl that would go with him, it would be
all right, but the Indians must have the same privilege
among the white men. With this the council ended.

At that time Washakie told us that only a few snows
before then he was chief of all the Shoshones, and the

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 319

Indians acknowledged him as such, but he was called to
Fort Laramie, to have a talk with the agents of the big
father at Washington, and to receive blankets and many
other things. There the agents called a quiet, unobtrusive
man, who never had been a chief, nor was in the line of
chiefs, and designated him as head of the Shoshones, tell-
ing the Indians they must have him. as chief, and respect
him as such, and that they, the agents, would recognize him
in that position, and through him they would do all gov-
ernment business. Then the agents passed out a great
quantity of blankets and other Indian goods, through their
appointed chief. In this act, the Indians saw that the agents
had chosen a favorite of their own, so the red men called
him "Tavendu-wets" (the white man's child), but never
recognized him as chief.

That act of the government agents was the opening
wedge to divide the Shoshone tribe into discontented factions,
and thereby weaken it. Possibly that was the purpose in
view, for before that the tribe was very powerful, with a
chief at their head unexcelled for bravery, skill and far-
sightedness. Chief Washakie was a bold, noble, hospitable,
and honorable man. As an orator, I think he surpassed
any man I ever met.

320 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

CHAPTER XLIL

LEAVE WASHAKIE'S CAMP FOR THE OTHER PORTION OP THE SHOSHONE
TRIBE— INDIAN GLIDE LEAVES US-FOLLOWING A TRAIL— SIGHT
THE OTHER CAMP— WAR SONGS AND DANCES— INDIANS PREPARING
FOR WAR— CHIEF GIVES UP HIS LODGE TO US, WARNING US OF
MEN IN HIS CAMP HE CANNOT CONTROL— LNDIAN BRAVES IN
WAR PAINT— SURROUNDED BY FIFTEEN HUNDRED OR TWO THOU-
SAND INDIANS— LEARN THAT L. B. RYAN, A WHITE DESPERADO
CHIEF, IS IN CAMP, AND HAS SWORN VENGEANCE ON MORMONS-
ESCAPE SEEMS IMPOSSIBLE, BUT WE TRUST IN GOD— RETIRE FOR
THE NIGHT— RYAN AND SEVEN WARRIORS AT OUR LODGE— RYAN
ENTERS AND DEMANDS TO KNOW WHERE WE ARE FROM, AND
OUR BUSINESS— HE IS TOLD, THREATENS US, AND SUMMONS HIS
INDIAN BRAVES INSIDE OUR LODGE— THOUGH THE ENEMY ARE
TWO TO ONE, WE ARE READY FOR THEM— PREPARE FOR A
FIGHT TO THE DEATH— RYAN AND HIS MEN LEAVE THE LODGE-
WAR DANCE OUTSIDE— WE CONCLUDE TO SELL OUR LIVES AS
DEARLY AS POSSIBLE— WAR PARTY APPROACH THE LODGE AND
SLIT IT IN A NUMBER OF PLACES, THEN SUDDENLY DEPART—
OUR LIVES BEING SPARED, WE REMAIN IN' CAMP TILL NEXT DAY
—THE CHIEF BEFRIENDS US, WARNING US NOT TO RETURN THE
WAY WE CAME— DISPUTE AS TO THE ROUTE OF TRAVEL, AND
HOW IT IS SETTLED— SATISFIED THAT RYAN INTENDED TO AM-
BUSH US— RAINSTORM OBLITERATES OUR TRACKS— CAMP IN THE
RAIN— ON THE ALERT FOR AN ENEMY— SHOOT A BUFFALO— WARD
AND DAVIS GIVE CHASE, WHILE BULLOCK AND I CONTINUE ON
OUR ROUTE— CAMP AT A WASH -BULLOCK TAKEN VERY ILL— A
TERRIBLE NIGHT— WARD AND DAVIS NOT RETURNING BY MORN-
ING, WE MOVE ON— FEAR THAT BULLOCK WILL DIE— DISCOVER
OUR COMRADES IN THE CANYON -BEING HUNGRY, WE OVEREAT
—ANOTHER NIGHT OF SICKNESS— EMERGE FROM THE CANYON-
PRESS FORWARD TO GREEN RIVER— WELCOMED BY FRIENDS-
THREE OF OUR PARTY GO ON TO FORT SUPPLY, AND I REMAIN TO
MEET CHIEF WASHAKIE.

THE morning after the council, Chief Washakie asked
us where we were going to from his camp. We said
we wished to go to White Man's Child's camp of Sho-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 321

shones. Said he, "Maybe that is good, maybe not. I
don't know. I hear there are bad men over there. I
don't know." As there was no trail leading to that camp,
we asked him to send a guide with us. He replied, "Maybe
one go." Our horses having been brought up, we saddled
them, and after a good friendly shake of the hand of the
chief and of some of his council, we started to the south-
east, with a young brave on the lead. When we had
traveled about twenty miles, our guide disappeared over a
ridge, but as we had come to a trail it did not matter to us
so long as we could see pony tracks to follow. Still a feel-
ing of mistrust lurked within us, as it had done all day. We
discussed the matter, but could see no other way open than
to press forward.

Soon we ascended a hill, from the top of which we
could hear a drum, then many voices in a war song. As
we rounded a little point of the hill we saw numerous
lodges, and what appeared to be thousands of Indians. A
large proportion of the latter were dancing and singing
songs. About this time we felt a heavy feeling, and were
certain that the spirit of murder was in the Indian camp.
Everybody we met until we came to the chief 's lodge
looked as if they were going to war, judging by the expres-
sion of their eyes.

The chief came slowly out, coolly shook hands with
us, ordered our stock taken care of, and a dish of boiled
meat set before us. Then his family left the lodge, taking
their effects, leaving only three robes for us. The sun was
just setting, and the chief said we could occupy his lodge
that night, as he was going away, being afraid to stop there,
as there were men in camp that he could not control. Then
he walked off and out of sight.

At this time three braves came by in their war paint,
stepping along very lightly, and stripped and armed as if
ready for a fight. They took a sharp glance at us, then

32 2 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

passed on up the creek, to where the singing and dancing"
were going on. Then war whoops rent the air, and we
were alone around the campfire.

There we were, surrounded by three hundred Indian
lodges, and between fifteen hundred and two thousand
Indians, principally Shoshones, though there were Chey-
ennes and Arapahoes mixed with them, for trading purposes,
we supposed. It was dark, our horses had been taken away,,
we knew not where, and we were between four and five
hundred miles from any source of protection, so far# as-
we knew. The chief had confessed his inability to con-
trol some men in his camp, and had acknowledged that
he was afraid to stop in his own lodge, he and his family
seeking safer quarters. We were also without food, and
the shadow of death seemed to hover over and close around
us, while the war song and dance were heard plainly. We
had also learned that L. B. Ryan, successor to Samuel
Callwell as chief of the organized band of desperadoes, was-
at that time beating up and organizing a war party to
carry on his nefarious work of robbery, and that he had
sworn vengeance on the first Mormons that he met. We
believed that he was the uncontrollable power that the chief
had referred to.

Under these circumstances, it was a grave question as
to what we could do for the best. Escape by flight was
impossible, and as for attempting to fight three hundred to
one, that was folly. Then what should we do? Put our
trust in God, and go to bed, and if we were killed we
wouldn't have to fall. This was our conclusion, so we at-
tended prayers, and retired about 8 o'clock.

Soon the drum and some kind of whistle were heard
drawing closer to us. In a few minutes our outdoor fire
was surrounded by L. B. Ryan and seven young warriors,
all well armed with Colt's revolvers. The Indians had bows-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF [AMES S. BROWN. 323

and arrows in hand, ready for action. Thei paleface com-
panion undoubtedly was the leader.

After a brief pause, Ryan came into the lodge and
squatted down just opposite to where Bullock and I lay.
He picked up a stick of wood, and with a cutlass chipped
off pieces and stirred up the coals, starting a bright light.
Then he said, "Gentlemen, where do you hail from, and
what is your business jiere?"

Mr. Bullock being spokesman, informed him that we
were from Utah, and our business in part was to get ac-
quainted with the Indians, to ascertain the openings for
trade, and to look out the resources of the country.

Ryan continued, "Gentlemen, if you have got any
papers for me, bring them out. I have been robbed by the
Mormons of my bottom dollar, and by the eternal gods I
am going to have revenge."

He then smote the billet of wood a heavy blow, at
which signal the seven braves filed into the lodge, and
squatted in order, with bows tightly corded, and arrows in
hand. Ward, Davis, and I, were fully prepared to meet
the attack as best we could. Bullock having the talking to
do, was not so well prepared, until I rubbed his ribs with
my bowie knife handle, when he got ready as quickly as
possible. There were eight against four, all inside of one
Indian lodge, watching for the signal from Ryan, and we
would have acted promptly on his signal, or that of one of
his braves, and without doubt would have got our share of
the game, in exchanging lead for arrows. It is possible that
Ryan took the same view, for he suddenly rose up and
walked out, the warriors following him. They closed the
lodge door behind them, thus giving us the opportunity to
consult, while they held their council and danced around the
fire and sang.

We hastily concluded that if they entered again it would
be to massacre our party, and that if they began to come in

324 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

we would fire on them the moment they opened the deer-
skin door. I, being in the most convenient position, was to
give the first shot, presuming that Ryan would be in the lead,
and we would be sure to dispose of him in that way. Mean-
while, all the rest would fire into the war party, whose
shadows could be seen through the lodge, as they were be-
tween it and a big outdoor fire. The next move on our
part was for Davis, who lay most convenient to the back part
of the lodge, to make with his knife as large an opening as
possible in the lodge, that we might escape through it into
the creek that passed near b}T, the banks of which were
only six or eight feet high. Our decision was that the mo-
ment we left the lodge every man was to try and if possi-
ble make his escape, no matter what the conditions might
be, so that if either one of us could get away, and tell where
he last saw the rest, it might be some satisfaction to our
friends and relatives. Then each man took the most easy
position to act his part, made ready his firelock, and held it
with finger on the trigger.

Just then the party outside came around in their dance
circle, straight for the lodge door, Ryan in the lead. They
sang and danced right up to the door, but did not lift it.
Next they circled around the lodge, and with their scalping
knives, or some other sharp instruments, slit the lodge in a
number of places. Then, as they came around to the front,
they gave a war whoop, and passed up the creek in the direc-
tion whence they came. Thus we still lived, and were
spared the awful necessity of shedding man's blood, even in
self-defense, thanks be to God for His protection and mer-
cies. Still the clouds hung so low, and so thickly around,
that we could not feel safe in an attempt to leave camp.

Next morning the chief sent us some boiled buffalo
beef, and called and talked a few moments. He impressed
us with the fact that the danger was not yet over, and that
we were safer in his lodge and camp than we would be out

326 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

of it, so we contented ourselves as best we could by loiter-
ing around, while the drum and the whistling reeds of
the war party, and the wild shouts, continued all day. At
last night came, and we turned in, as we had done the
evening before, with all our clothes, arms and boots on.

Nothing occurred that night to mar our peace, but the
ever threatening din of the drum and the savage yell of the
red man. Again the morning light broke over us, and our
scalps were still in place, but the very elements seemed to
say, "Stay in camp." The Spirit whispered to every one
of us the same thing. We were a unit, and therefore
lingered in the place, closely watching every move.

Finally the chief came, and our horses were brought.
This was at about 1 o'clock p. m. Then, as plainly as ever
we saw the clouds in the firmament break and scatter, we
felt the clouds of death begin to part. We waited no longer;
our horses were saddled, packs were put in place, and the
chief gave us a slight indication, letting us understand that
it was a good time to move. At that moment Ryan and his
allies came up, apparently changed in their behavior. Ryan
inquired of us by what route we intended to return. Mr.
Bullock said we expected to go to Washakie's camp, and
thence back by the same route we had come on. Imme-
diately the chief stepped away into the brush, we mounted,
and saying good-bye, started down the creek.

A few moments later, as we rounded a bend, the chief
popped out of the brush just in front of and so as to meet us.
Without seeming to notice us in the least, he said, "Do not go
the way you said you would, for there are men in my camp
that 1 cannot control." Brother Bullock did not catch the
idea, but the other three of us did. We understood his
action as well as his words. Soon we came to where we
had got to decide which course we would take. Brother
Bullock was determined to keep his word, and go by the
route that he had told Ryan he would do, but the three

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 327

others were a unit in insisting on taking another way. We
told him we understood perfectly the chief, that if we went
by that route we would be ambushed, and every soul of us
would be killed. Still Brother Bullock insisted on keeping
his word with the Indians; and more, he had promised
Washakie that he would return by his camp. Then Ward
and Davis came straight out and said they knew that meant
death, and they would not follow on that trail; so they
started off another way.

At this juncture I said: "Brother Bullock, I never
deserted my file-leader in my life, and I will not do it now.
I will follow you to the death, for I am certain that path
leads there, and if you persist in going that way I will
follow, and will claim my blood at your hands, for the
others, the three of us, see alike." Then Ward and Davis
turned and said that on the same conditions as those I had
named they would go with Brother Bullock; but the latter
said the price was too great, and he would go with us, but
he very much regretted breaking his word with the red
man.

Every minute was precious at that time. We were
well satisfied that Ryan would not shrink to do from am-
bush what he had hesitated to do in the chief's lodge, and
that if he could strike our trail he would do it to the death;
so we made the best speed consistent with the conditions
surrounding us.

As we were passing up the long slope of the mountain,
and while yet almost in sight of the camp, a small, dense,
black cloud arose in the south. It passed in our rear and
over the Indian camp, and torrents of rain seemed to fall
there, while we were caught only in the storm's edge.
Thus our tracks were completely obliterated. Soon we
came into a trail leading along our way, and followed it to
quite a bold running creek. As the rain had ceased where
we were, to further elude our enemies we followed up in

328 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

the bed of the creek until we came to a rocky ridge which
led us up among the cliffs, where it would be difficult for
any one to follow us and make much headway. While
there among the rocks, Ward and Davis saw an old moun-
tain sheep, which they pursued and captured, but he fell in
a place so difficult of access, and night coming on, that it
was impossible to get but a small portion of him. Bullock
and I kept on our course, and were overtaken by our com-
panions just at dark.

We pushed on as quickly as possible, for the rain was
coming on in torrents. At last the night became so densely
dark that we could only keep together by the noise of our
camp equipage, and by talking. It was impossible to see
where we were going, so we camped in a sag. It rained
so hard that it was with much work that we started a fire,
and then it was quite as difficult to keep it going till we
could frizzle a morsel of the old ram; so each bolted his
rations half raw, and having hobbled our animals securely,
we rolled ourselves in half-wet blankets and laid down on
the ground, which already had been soaked to the consist-
ency of mud, and we wallowed there until next morning.
Then two of us brought up and saddled horses, while the
other two frizzled a little more of the ram, which was
bolted, as before, for it was too tough to chew in a way
anything like satisfactory. We then wrung our blankets,
for they were full of water, as in the place where we had
laid down the water was half shoetop deep.

By sunrise we were mounted, feeling satisfied that our
track of the day before had been covered up, and thirty
miles of our flight was behind us. The country was high
and barren, but we avoided conspicuous points, and traveled
the most secluded way, ever on the alert to catch the first
sight of an enemy, or of any kind of game, for our portion
of flesh of the ram of the Rockies had disappeared.

In the after part of the day the sun shone. This was

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 329

while we were crossing the head of an open fiat, in a dry
country, with a dry gully coursing down through it. This
gully was fringed with an abundant growth of sagebrush,
and as we looked down the flat we saw some animals com-
ing out from a bend in the gully. We ascertained to our
delight that there were seven buffaloes. Our decision was
to spare no efforts in an endeavor to secure one of the ani-
mals, for this was a rare chance, as the Indians had
hunted every bit of game that it was possible for them to
do in that part of the country.

To accomplish our most desirable object at this partic-
ular time, Ward, Davis and I secured our horses, leaving
Bullock to guard them and the pack mules. The three of
us made our way down the gulch, and as the wind came to
us from the buffaloes, there was no danger of them scenting
us. Thus we secured an excellent position,and waiting a few
minutes for them to feed to within about sixty yards of us,
we decided on the one that had the sleekest coat, thinking
he would be the best beef; for all were very poor old bulls,
and we did not wish to injure more than we needed to keep
us from starvation. We all took deliberate aim, and three
rifles rang out as one. The only result visible to us was
that the game wheeled, and ran directly ou the back track,
leaving us without even a hope of buffalo meat until we fol-
lowed on their trail seventy or eighty rods. There we found
where one animal had cast his cud, and later we saw some
blood splattered about. All felt sure we had hit the buf-
falo, for each knew how his rifle shot, and said he never
drew a nicer bead on an animal in his life. Then Ward
and Davis got their horses and gave chase, as the game
had run almost parallel with our route toward the notch in
the mountains for which we were aiming.

Bullock and I kept on the course our party had marked
out to travel, but before we reached the mountain pass we
were heading for, night and rain came on, and we had to

21

33° LIFE OF A PIONEER.

camp in an open greasewood plain. Coming to a very deep
wash that had good feed in it, we concluded to hobble
our animals in the wash. It was difficult to get our stock
in, as the banks were very steep, but at last we succeeded
in getting them down, and felt that they were tolerably safe
for the night, with some watching. We gathered a little
greasewood, for there was no other fuel, and tried to get a
fire started in the rain and darkness.

During this time, Bullock began to have cramps, in the
stomach and bowels, and then in his limbs, and soon he was
taken with a heavy chill. It seemed that he would die, in
spite of all that I could do for him. I rubbed him, prayed
for him, and put him in a pack of wet blankets, for we had
no other, and were without any earthly comfort for such
an emergency. At last I caught some rain in the frying-
pan, then got hold of our cracker sack, in which was about
two tablespoonfuls of crumbs and dust that had rubbed off
the crackers. I heated the water, put the crumbs in, and
brought the mixture to a boil, stirring it so that it appeared
something like gruel, and gave it to the sick man, who
became easier. Then I went out, feeling my way, to see
what had become of our stock, and got so far off in the
darkness that I had great difficulty in finding my way back
to my sick companion, but after much anxiety and bother
I found him suffering intensely. I set to work rubbing
him and encouraging him the best I could. I spent the
entire night in attending to him and watching the stock.

Morning came, and still the hunters were unheard of.
At one time I almost despaired of the sick man's life, and
thought, if he died, what could I do with him, so far away
from help. I could not take him home, neither could I put
him out of reach of wild beasts, for I had no spade,
pickaxe or shovel; nor was there timber in sight to cremate
him. I had not a mouthful of food, and what had become
of our partners, Ward and Davis, I could not tell. Then

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 33 1

came the reaction of the spirit, and the thought that I must
do the best that I could. It would not do to despair. I
must pray for the patient, pack up, and get out of that
place.

The patient seemed to rally with the dawn of day, and
by sunrise we were on our way, and entered the canyon
we had been heading for. We saw no signs of our friends
until we reached their camp in the canyon, for it had rained
so heavily as to obliterate the horse tracks. As they had
gone on, we were not quite sure that it was their camp and
tracks, and the canyon afforded excellent opportunity for
ambush. But we were there and must go through. The
sick man held up with wonderful fortitude, though suffering
greatly. About 2 p. m. we sighted our comrades, the
buffalo hunters. They mistook us for enemies and fled,
until they found a convenient place to hide themselves and
horses, and where they watched until they saw the gleam-
ing of the sunlight upon our rifle barrels. Then they rec-
ognized us, and as we came up we had a warm greeting.

Being together once more we hid our animals among
the cedars, and selected our Camp with care, as it was night.
Our hunters had been successful, after a chase of ten miles,
in getting the buffalo; they had a hard and hazardous fight
with the wounded animal, and it took them till after dark
before they could get what buffalo meat they could carry
on their horses. They also had a very severe night of it;
but the lost were found, and with plenty of buffalo meat in
camp we were thankful.

We broiled and ate, boiled and ate and ate raw liver,
and marrow out of the bones; for be known that men
in the condition we were, with severe hunger, do not al-
ways realize how much they have eaten until they eat
too much. So it was with us. When we were through
with the meal, we prepared to "jerk" the remainder of the
beef, but before that was done my three companions were

332 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

attacked with vomiting and purging; then followed chills
and cramps, and for about four or five hours it seemed they
might all die. I could not say which would go first, and
the previous night's experience was reiterated. I confess
that I had been guilty of as much folly and unreason as
they, but being more robust than the others, I could endure
more than they; but I had the very same kind of an attack
as they did, before the journey was over.

When morning came, a sicker and a harder looking
lot of men seldom is seen in the mountains. Yet we must
travel, so passed through that canyon out onto an open
plain, leaving the creek to the south of us. In the after-
noon we came to a smooth clay grade, on which were
fresh horse and moccasin tracks, and four large capital let-
ters, in English; I think they were N, W, H and E. We
concluded they had been marked out with a sharp stick,
but not in a manner intelligible to us, so we were suspicious
and cautiously pushed on to a place of shelter and rest.

It was on the ist day of June that we reached the Middle
Ferry on Green River, Green River County, Utah. There
we met with W. I. Appleby, probate judge, Hosea Stout,
prosecuting attorney, William Hickman, sheriff, Captain
Hawley, the ferryman, and his family and some others.
They did not have to be told what we most needed, but sup-
plied with liberal hand our necessities, for all were aware
that the object of our mission had been to protect just such
as they, and the innocent immigrants, and their property,
from not only the raids of the red men, but also from the
more wicked and baser white brigands.

We rested at Green River until the 4th of June, when
my fellow missionaries left for Fort Supply. I remained
as interpreter, and to fill our appointment with Chief
Washakie, who was to be at the ferry by July 15.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 333

CHAPTER XLIII.

ENGAGED AS INTERPRETER— CLASS OF PEOPLE AT GREEN RIVER-AP-
POINTED DEPUTY SHERIFF— DROVER THREATENS TO KILL BOAT-
MEN—ARREST ORDERED— RIDE INTO THE OUTLAWS' CAMP-
BLUFFING THE CAPTAIN— A PERILOUS SITUATION— PARLEY WITH
DROVERS— COMPROMISE EFFECTED— DEALING WITH LAAY-BREAK-
ERS— "BILL" HICKMAN AS SHERIFF— SWIMMING CATTLE OVER
GREEN RIVER— A DROVER'S FAILURE— WRITER EMPLOYED TO
GET CATTLE OVER— HOW IT IS DONE-SECRET OF SUCCESS-
ARRIVAL OF WASHAKIE— THE FERRYMAN OFFENDS HIM— THE
ANGRY INDIAN SWEARS VENGEANCE ON THE WHITE MAN— HIS
PARTING THREAT— IN PERIL OF AN INDIAN MASSACRE.

AS I had become a fairly good interpreter, the ferry
company proposed to pay my board at Green River
while I stayed, as there was no one else there who could
converse with the Indians. The country was new and wild,
and while there were some very good people, the road was
lined with California immigrants and drovers, many of them
of a very rough class, to say the best of them. They would
camp a day or two on the river, and drink, gamble and
fight; then the traders and rough mountain men, half-caste
Indians, French and Spaniards, were numerous; there were
also blacksmith and repair shops, whisky saloons, gambling
tables, and sometimes there would be a perfect jam of
wagons and cattle, and two or three hundred men. There
were quarrels and fights, and often men would be shot or
stabbed. As the court had been organized only about two
months, it was almost impossible for the sheriff or any
other officer to serve a writ or order of court, unless he
had a posse to back him. Sometimes the ferryman at the
Upper Ferry would be run off his post, and a company of
mountain men would run the ferry and take the money,

334 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

and it would require every man that was on the side of
law and order to back the officer. In this situation I,
though a missionary, was summoned to take charge of a
posse of men to assist the sheriff in making arrests.

One time there came a man with four thousand head
of cattle. He crossed the river, passed down about four
miles and camped under a steep sand bluff. He had missed
a calf, and sent a man back for it. A small party of Indians,
passing along that way, had picked up the animal and car-
ried it off, supposing that the drovers had abandoned it.
The man who had been sent for the calf, not finding it, rode
up to the ferry and demanded the animal of the boatmen.
These told him they did not have his calf, whereupon he
swore at them, called them liars and thieves, and threatened
to kill them, at the same time leveling his double-barreled
shotgun at them.

Judge Appleby happened to be standing within a few
feet of the boatmen, and heard the whole conversation.
He ordered the sheriff to take the man, dead or alive. The
sheriff summoned me to his aid, and we started at once for
the culprit. When we got to within four rods of him he
called out, "Do you want anything of me, gentlemen?"
The sheriff said, "Yes; I am the sheriff, and you are my
prisoner." The man being on horseback, defied the sheriff
and fled. We fired two shots in the air, thinking he would
surrender, but he did not, and the sheriff pressed into ser-
vice the horses of two immigrants near by, and he and I
pursued the fugitive, following him about four miles, where
we suddenly came upon his camp of twenty-four men.
armed with double-barrelled shotguns.

The man having had considerably the start of us, had
time to get the camp rallied and ready for action, telling
them that two men had shot at and were then in hot pur-
suit of him. We were not aware of his camp being there
until we reached the brow of the bluff; then our only

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 335

chance was to ride boldly down into the camp, which we
did, the sheriff shouting, "Hold on, gentlemen! lam the
sheriff of this county." The captain of the camp, being
a cool-headed and fearless man, said to his men, "Hold on,
boys, wait for the word."

The moment we got into camp we dismounted, and I
presume that at least a dozen guns were leveled at us, their
holders being greatly excited, and swearing death to us if
we dared to lay a finger on the fugitive, or on any other
person in the camp. The captain, however, said, "Hold
on, boys! Let's hear what these men have to say." Then
the sheriff said the man (pointing to the culprit) had com-
mitted an offense against the law, in threatening the lives
of the boatmen, and leveling his gun as if to carry out the
threat, and the sheriff had been ordered by the judge to
arrest him, but he had defied the officer and fled. "But,"
said the captain, "you shot at him." To this the sheriff re-
plied, "We called on him to halt, and as he refused to obey,
a couple of shots were fired over his head to make him
stop, but he did not do so, and we followed him to your
camp. I now demand him of you as his captain."

At this the captain declared that the sheriff had shot
at his man and had scared him almost to death. He pointed
to the man, who was shaking as if he had a treble shock
of the ague, and continued that before the sheriff should
take him every drop of blood in the camp should be shed.
The men brawled out, "Hear! Hear!" when the sheriff
said, "All right, Captain. You may get away with us two,
but we have between seventy-five and one hundred men
just over the hills here, and in less than twenty-four hours
we will have you and every man in your camp, and your
stock will have to foot the bill."

Thereupon the captain made response that he would
come and answer for his man, but the sheriff could not take
him. Thus the matter was compromised subject to the

336 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

court's approval. The captain promised to be at the
judge's within two hours, and was there. So the whole
matter was settled without bloodshed.

This incident is only an illustration of what had to be
met every few days, in which men would refuse to yield to
the law until they had to do so or die, and many were the
times that we had to force them down with the revolver,
when, if we had not had "the drop" on them they would
not have yielded. We met men face to face, with deadly
weapons, and if it had not been for the cunning and the
cool head of "Bill" Hickman, as he was commonly called,
blood would have been shed more than once when it was
avoided. I speak of "Bill" Hickman as I found him in
the short time I was with him. In his official capacity he
was cunning, and was always ready to support the law
while I was with him on Green River.

One day about 10 o'clock a. m., a herd of four hun-
dred head of cattle came up, and the owners ferried their
wagons across the river. Then they tried to swim their
cattle over but could not do so. I stood by and watched
their futile efforts until I observed the reason the cattle
would not go across. Then I attempted to tell the captain
that he could not swim his stock with the sun shining in
their faces. The captain being one of those self-sufficient
men often met with, rather snubbed me, saying, "I have
handled cattle before today." I turned away, remarking
that he never would get his cattle across in that manner,
and saying that I could put every head over at the first
attempt.

Some one repeated to the "boss" what I had said, and
asked him why he did not get that mountaineer to help, as
he understood the business better than anyone else on the
river. "Well," he said, "we will make another try, and if
we do not succeed, we will see what he can do." The trial
was another failure. Then he came to me and said, "Cap.,

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 337

what will you charge me to swim those cattle, and insure
me against loss?" I answered, "You have wearied your
cattle and fooled them so much that it will be more trouble
now than at first, but if you will drive your stock out on
that 'bottom' and call your men away from them, I will
swim them and insure every hoof, for twenty-five cents a
head." Said he, "I will do it, for it will cost fifty cents a
head to cross them in the boat. So you will take charge
of them on the 'bottom?' "

"Yes," said I, "so you do not let them scatter too much."
The river was booming, but I knew of a place where the
bank was three or four feet higher than the water, and
where the stream ran swiftly, setting across to where the
cattle would reach a gradual slope. I then went to a camp
of Indians near by, and hired four of them to assist me.
They stripped and mounted their ponies with their robes
about them. One went between the cattle and the river,
so as to lead, and the others circled around the stock and
got them all headed toward the place designated for them
to take to the water. Then they caused the cattle to in-
crease their speed until they were on the gallop, when the
Indians gave a few yells and shook their robes, the man in
the lead leaped his horse into the river, and every hoof took
to the water, and were across safe and sound within thirty
minutes from the time they started. The captain paid with-
out objecting, and would have me go over and take supper
with him and his family. He said, "Aside from having my
cattle across safe and sound, I have the worth of my money
in valuable experience." Next day he was back over the
river, and would tell of the incident and say to the drovers

he met with, "There is ihat mountaineer. I am if he

can't beat any man swimming cattle that I ever saw." And
others would tell the drovers the same story.

Now, my friendly reader, I will tell you the secret of
swimming horses and cattle across a river. It is: Find a

338 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

place (which you always can do) somewhere in the bends
of the watercourse, where you can swim your stock from
the sun, and where they take to the water the deeper the
better, even if you have to make them jump from the
banks. The swifter the current the better; then they are
not so likely 10 injure one another in jumping. Again, see
that the outcoming place is on a grade, and the water is
shallow. Then have some good swimmer, on horseback,
take the lead; push your stock to a lively gait, and success
is assured. I had charge of swimming ten thousand head
of cattle across Green River, in the months of June and
July, 1854, and never lost a hoof, yet forced hundreds of
them over banks eight to ten feet high, into the water. Ir>
such case, the water must be deep, or we might have sus-
tained damage. I have found, as a rule, that nearly all men
who have much money or property think that they know
it all, and are hard to convince. But some of the drovers
learned by object lessons, and almost all of them thought
they could swim their own cattle; and so they could have
done, if they had known the correct plan, or had made the
effort after sundown or before sunrise.

About the time set for his arrival, Washakie, the great
Shoshone chieftain, came in with seven of his braves, and
quietly walked around. First, he inspected the boat and
its fixtures, or tackle; then he went to the brewery,
the bakery, store, court room, whisky saloon, blacksmith
shops, card tables, saw much money changing hands, and
observed that money would purchase about anything the
white man had.

When the chief had had a friendly visit all around, he
went to the office of Captain Hawley, the ferryman. There
he saw the captain taking and handling considerable money,
among the precious metal being two or three fifty-dollar
gold slugs. He asked for one of these, but the captain
laughed at him, and offered him a silver dollar.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF |AMES S. BROWN. 339

This action offended Washakie, who walked away,
and by some means got hold of some intoxicants. Then
he began to think what was going on in the land of his
forefathers, and came to me and said: "This is my country,
and my people's country. My fathers lived here, and drank
water from this river, while our ponies grazed on these
bottoms. Our mothers gathered the dry wood from this
land. The buffalo and elk came here to drink water and
eat grass; but now they have been killed or driven back
out of our land. The grass is all eaten off by the white
man's horses and cattle, and the dry wood has been burned;
and sometimes, when our young men have been hunting,
and got tired and hungry, they have come to the white
man's camp, and have been ordered to get out, and they

are slapped, or kicked, and called 'd d Injuns.' Then

our young men get heap mad, and say that when they have
the advantage of the white man, as they have often, they
will take revenge upon him. Sometimes they have been
so abused that they have threatened to kill all the white
men they meet in our land. But I have ahvays been a
friend to the white man, and have told my people never to
moisten our land with his blood; and to this day the white
man can not show in all our country where the Shoshone
has killed one of his people, though we can point to many
abuses we have patiently suffered from him. Now I can
see that he only loves himself; he loves his own flesh, and
he does not think of usj he loves heap money; he has a
big bag full of it; he got it on my land, and would not give
me a little piece. I am mad, and you heap my good friend,
and I will tell you what I am going to do. Every white
man, woman or child, that I find on this side of that water,"
pointing to the river, "at sunrise tomorrow I will wipe them
out" (rubbing his hands together). He went on : "You
heap my friend; you stay here all right; you tell them to
leave my land. If they are on the other side of my water,

340 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

all right, me no kill them, they go home to their own
country, no come back to my land. Tomorrow morning
when the sun come up, you see me. My warriors come,
heap damn mad, and wipe them all out, no one leave."

"Good-by, you tell him, chief, he mad!" was Wash-
akie's parting exclamation, as he mounted his horse and
rode away to his camp on the Big Sandy, some fifteen
miles back from the Green River.

CHAPTER XLIV.

CONSTERNATION AT WASHAKIE'S DECLARATION— PEOPLE HURRY
ACROSS THE RIVER— THE WRITER IS ASKED TO ATTEMPT A RE-
CONCILIATION—NIGHT TOO DARK TO TRAVEL— CHIEF WASHAKIE
AND BRAVES APPEAR AT SUNRISE— THE CHIEF NOTES THAT THE
PEOPLE ARE TERROR-STRICKEN, AND DECIDES THAT HE WILL
BE THEIR FRIEND— TROUBLOUS EXPLOITS OF MOUNTAIN MEN-
SHERIFF'S PLAN OF ARREST— HOW THE SCHEME WORKED— DES-
PERADOES FREED BY THE COURT— CHASING AN OFFENDER— SUR-
ROUNDED BY HIS ASSOCIATES— COOLNESS AND PLUCK OF THE
SHERIFF WIN— READY TO RETURN HOME— A TRYING EXPERIENCE.

AS might have been expected, I lost no time in appris-
ing the people of the Indian threat, and the white
population promptly complied with the order to move; so
that by daylight there was little of value on that side of the
river. There was great consternation among the people,
and Captain Hawley was quite willing to send a fifty-dollar
slug to the chief; but it was late in the evening, and no one
to go but myself. There was no telling how much liquor
there might be in the Indian camp, so it was not a pleasant
job for either friend or foe to approach the savages on such
a dark night as that was. Although I had Washakie's
promise of friendship, I knew that when the Indians were
drunk they were not good company, and I did not care to
expose myself to unnecessary danger.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 34I

Individually I had nothing at stake, but there were
others who had their families and thousands of dollars'
worth of property at the mercy of the enraged red men. In
this crisis, when I wras asked if I would take the risk, and
what amount I would give my service for, I said I would
undertake to go that night and attempt a reconciliation,and
charge fifty dollars, if they would provide me with a good
horse. That they agreed to do. The night was so dark,
however, that it was impossible to get hold of a horse, so
we had to move all of value that could be taken across the
river. We also made every preparation for defense that
was possible during the night.

Next morning, true to his promise, Chief Washakie,
with fifteen well armed men, came up, just at sunrise. I
went out to meet him, and found him perfectly sober and
friendly, as also his men. The chief rode up and glanced
at the desolate appearance of everything, and saw that the
women and children were greatly frightened. His com-
panions sat on their horses and looked across the river.
Finally the noble chief said, referring to those who had left
their homes, "Tell them to come back. We will not hurt
them. We will be good friends."

Thus ended the big scare, and the people returned.
But there was another stir to come; for in a few days the fer-
ryman from the Upper Ferry, ten miles above the Middle
Ferry, told Judge Appleby that a party of rough mountain-
eers had driven him off, threatening his life if he did not
leave immediately. They had taken charge of the ferry,
and were running it and pocketing the money. There
were twenty-eight of them, determined "cut-throats," a part
of the desperado band I have referred to before. The judge
ordered the sheriff to summon every available man, and go
at once and ascertain who the leaders were, then arrest
them and bring them before the court. There were only
fourteen men obtainable for the posse, and this number in-

342 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

eluded the ferryman. The sheriff delegated me to take
charge of the posse and go up on the east side of the river,
ahead of him and the ferryman, who would come up on the
west side some time after, so as not to create any unneces-
sary suspicion. He instructed us to be sociable with the
outlaws, treat and be treated, and join in any game that
might be engaged in. Said he, "We will get them drunk
and divided among themselves, and then I think we can
manage them."

The plan was laid, and every man being well armed,
we set out on our hazardous mission. We had with us one
man who could drink an enormous amount of whisky and
yet not get drunk, for he would turn around and put his
finger down his throat and vomit up the liquor before it
would affect him much. He said, "Boys, I can make a
dozen of them drunk, and keep straight myself." He was
asked how he would go about it, and replied, "Well, I will
offer to drink more whisky than any man on the river, and
we will drink by measure; then I will slip out and throw it
up. To hide the trick you must push me out of doors
roughly, as if mad. At other times jam me up in a corner,
so I can throw up. Thus I will have half of them so drunk
that anyone of you can handle half a dozen of them at once."
His statement of his ability to drink and empty his stomach
of it being corroborated, he was assigned that part of the
strategy. Then another man, who had been a soldier in
the Mexican war, said, "Well, if you will get them drunk,
I will win the money from their own party to buy the
whisky, for I know just how to do it." He was given
that part, for whisky was fifty cents a drink.

When we had perfected arrangements as far as possible,
we rode up, dismounting as if we had just happened to call
and knew nothing of the trouble. Each man took his part, and
played it well. To our surprise, we found their leader, L.
B. Ryan, apparently in a drunken stupor; he was the same

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 343

person I had met in the Shoshone Indian camp, five or six
weeks before. As he and the sheriff had been on good
terms,they drank together and appeared to be quite friendly;
but the ferryman and one of the band of outlaws got into a
tight, and revolvers and bowie knives were drawn. Twenty-
five or thirty of the mountain men, with deadly weapons
flourishing, rushed into the saloon in front of which the
fight began. One man slashed the other with a knife, and
one of them fired two shots, but some bystander knocked
the weapon up, so it did no harm. The prompt action of
the sheriff and his supports, together with the aid of a num-
ber of immigrants, stopped the row. If it had not been for
that, a dozen men might have been slain in as many min-
utes. Some of the men were of the most desperate char-
acter, and swore and made terrible threats of what they
would do.

At last the combatants drank together, while a number
of others got so intoxicated they could scarcely stand alone.
Then the sheriff called Ryan to one side and quietly ar-
rested him, placing him under ten thousand dollars bonds
for his appearance in court on a certain date. The ferry-
man and some of the more moderate of the outlaws com-
promised their difficulties, and business settled down to a
normal condition. We went back to the Middle Ferry,
and the sheriff made his returns on the official papers.

At the time appointed for Ryan to appear in court, he
was there, with seven young, well-armed warriors and a
number of his band, who sauntered around the court room.
Ryan was so desperate and so well supported by his clique
that the court was glad to let him down and out as easily
as possible; for it was evident that the court must do that
or die. So Ryan and his gang returned to their haunts
more triumphant than otherwise.

So we had to deal with desperate men every day or
two, and it was seldom indeed that we could effect an ar-

344 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

rest without a determined show of arms. Yet, we were
not compelled to use them. The offenders must see that
we had them, and had the nerve to use them, before they
would yield. In one instance I was ordered by the sheriff
to take a man who had broken from the officer. The man
was running, and I followed, revolver in hand. As the
fugitive ran, he drew his weapon and wheeled around. I
was so near as to place my revolver uncomfortably close to
his face before he could raise his weapon. He saw at once
that I had the "drop" on him, as we used to say, and de-
livered his revolver to me. The next moment the sheriff
and posse had their backs together and weapons raised,
while twenty-four armed men appeared on the scene and
demanded the man. But when they looked into the muz-
zles of fourteen Colt's revolvers with bright, shining,
waterproof caps exposed, and the sheriff called out in a
firm and decisive voice, "I am the sheriff of Green River
County, and have a writ for this man." they paused, though
some of them swore the officers could not take the man
from camp, and advanced in a threatening manner. Then
the sheriff commanded, "Halt! The first man that ad-
vances another step, or raises his weapon, is a dead man.
Stand! I, as sheriff, give you fair warning." At that some
of the more cautious said, "Hold on, boys! We must not
oppose an officer," and all concluded they must give up the
man and submit to the law for that time. The offense of
the accused was shooting the ferryman's dog, while the
latter was eating something under the table, and while the
ferryman's wife and daughter were standing at the table
washing dishes; and when the ferryman remonstrated at
such conduct, threatening to shoot him. Ultimately the
matter was compromised, the culprit and his friends paying
the costs.

On the 7th of July, I began preparations to return to
Fort Supply, as my real missionary labors seemed to

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 34 <}

have come to an end in that part, and I was glad of it.
From May 13 to July 8, 1854, ^a^ been one of the most
hazardous, soul-trying, disagreeable experiences of my
life, for the short period it occupied. I have written a very
brief synopsis of it in the foregoing account; for it might
seem impossible to the person of ordinary experience for
so many thrilling incidents as I had witnessed to happen
in so short a time.

CHAPTER XLV.

GO TO FORT SUPPLY— START BACK TO GREEN RrVER AND MEET O. P.
ROCKWELL AT FORT BRIDGER— HE BRINGS ME A TRADER'S
LICENSE, ALSO GOODS TO TRADE TO THE INDIANS— BEING LATE
IN THE SEASON, WE STORE THE GOODS, AND GO TO SALT LAKE
CITY— RECEIVE THE APPROVAL OF GOVERNOR YOUNG— MOVE
TO OGDEN— ACCOMPANY* GOVERNOR YOUNG AS INTERPRETER—
MY HORSE STOLEN— CALLED ON A MISSION TO THE SHOSHONES-
ON GOING TO SALT LAKE CITY, I AM RELEASED— ORDERED TO
TAKE PART IN DISARMING INDIANS AT OGDEN— A DIFFICULT JOB
—CHASE TO MOUND FORT— HAND-TO-HAND STRUGGLE WITH A
POWERFUL SAVAGE— INDIANS DISARMED, BUT SULLEN— CHIEF'S
BROTHER OFFERS ALL HIS POSSESSIONS FOR HIS GUN— PRECAU-
TIONS TAKEN TO FEED THE INDIANS THAT WINTER— TEACH THE
INDIAN LANGUAGE IN SCHOOL— PROSPER IN BU8INE8S.

ON July 9, I started for Fort Supply, arriving there
on the nth, where I found all well. On the 14th I
began a journey back to Green River, but met Porter
Rockwell at Fort Bridger. He had a license from Gov-
ernor Brigham Young for me to trade with the Indians;
also some two or three thousand dollars' worth of Indian
goods for me to market. At that time there was no oppor-
tunity to trade, as the Indians had disposed of their robes,
22

34<5 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

pelts and furs for the season, so we sent the goods to Fort
Supply and had them stored there.

I accompanied Rockwell to Salt Lake City, arriving
there on July 19. We reported conditions to the governor,
who received us very kindly, and approved of what we had
done. On August 15 I went to Ogden City and on the
28th accompanied Governor Young, as interpreter, to Chief
Catalos' camp of Shoshones, four miles north of Ogden.
This large camp of Indians had some grievances to settle,
and particularly desired to ask favors and get a better un-
derstanding with the white men through their big chief.
The Indians claimed that they were friendly to the whites,
and wanted the latter to be friendly to them; they also
wished to have trade brought to them. The governor gave
them a liberal present of assorted Indian goods, talked
friendship, and told them he would leave other goods with
me to trade. He also advised them to be good people, and
to live at peace with all men, for we had the same great
Father. Governor Young told them it would be good for
them to settle down like the white man, and learn of him
how to cultivate the land as he did, so that when the game
was all gone they could live and have something to eat and
to feed their families on. The Indians said this was "heap
good talk," and their hearts felt good; so we parted with
them in the best of feelings, notwithstanding that some of
their bad Indians had stolen my only horse from where I
had picketed him on the bottoms. I did not learn the facts
in the case in time to get redres?, and all the consolation I
could obtain was that the thief did not know it was my
animal — "heap no good Indian steal your horse."

I returned to Ogden City, and there continued to trade
with the Indians as they came, until October 10, on which
date I received a letter from Elder Orson Hyde, stating
that Governor Young wished me to go on a mission among
the Shoshoaes that winter. I answered the call, but when

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 347

i got to Salt Lake City, on the way, it had been learned
that the Indians had gone out so far into the buffalo country
that it was not advisable for me to follow them; so I re-
turned to Ogden and continued to visit and trade with the
Indians, and got up my winter's wood.

On November 20 Wm. Hickman, L. B. Ryan and D.
Huntington came up from Salt Lake City with an order to
Major Moore and the citizens of Weber County to disarm
Chief Little Soldier and his band of Indians, and distribute
them among the families in Weber County where the peo-
ple were best able to feed and clothe them for the winter,
and set them to work; for they had become very trouble-
some to the citizens of that county, by killing cattle, burn-
ing fences, and intimidating isolated families. On the 30th
the major called on me to go with his party to the Indian
camp at West Weber. I did so, and with considerable
talking we got the Indians to accompany us to Ogden City.
Still, they felt very warlike and stubborn, being unwilling
to give up their arms.

In the midst of the parley, the three men from Salt
Lake City returned to that place, and the Indians were
allowed to go with their arms across the Ogden River and
camp among the willows near Mound Fort. On December
1st we went after them, finding them so hostile that we had
to make a show of arms before they would submit to our
proposition of distributing them among the whites, but
when we brought a squad of armed men they very reluc-
tantly and sullenly complied, so we marched them back to
Ogden City, to a location on Main Street, near where the
old tithing office stood. Almost every man that had side
arms was called to mingle among the Indians, so that each
man could command a warrior by disarming him by force
if he refused to surrender his arms at the command of the
major, which command I was required to repeat in the In-
dian dialect. At the word, each man was to take hold of

34§ LIFE OF A PIONEER.

an Indian's gun, and I was to tell the aborigines to surren-
der; but there was not a man who obeyed the order, for
what reason I do not know. I then went through the
crowd of Indians and took every weapon with my own
hands. The white men took them from me, and they were
stored in the tithing office, a guard being placed over
them.

Just then a young Indian was observed on horseback,
going northward as fast as his horse could carry him.
Some one said, "There goes that Indian boy to warn a
camp over by Bingham Fort!" Major Moore had one of
the fastest animals in the county; he ordered me to "take
her and beat the boy into camp, or run her to death. Don't
spare horseflesh. Call out the citizens and disarm every
Indian you find."

I obeyed the order, and found a small party of Indians
camped in the center of what was called Bingham Fort.
Just as the Indian boy reached the camp, I entered the east
gate of the square, and rode to the west gate, shouting to
the people, "To arms! To arms! Turn out, every man, and
help to disarm the Indians!" Men turned out quickly and
surrounded the camp. I succeeded in reaching the west
gate just in time to wheel and grab a big Ute's gun as he
was trying to pass me. He held to it firmly, and both
struggled with a death-like grip. We looked each other
squarely in the eyes, with a determined expression. At
last his eyes dropped, and his gun was in my possession.
He was full of wrath and a desire for vengeance. I found
him to be one of the strongest men I had ever grappled
with anywhere.

I next turned to the camp and disarmed all the Indians
in it, placed their weapons under guard an/1 sent them to
Ogden, then vainly tried to talk the red men into reconcili-
ation. I next returned to Ogden, and there found the
whites and Indians on the streets, the latter as discontented

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 349

as ever. The major and I tried to Opacify them, but they
were very .stubborn and sullen. At last the chief's brother
said, "Here are my wife, my children, my horses and
everything that 1 have. Take it all and keep it, only give
me back my gun and let me go free. • 1 will cast all the
rest away. There is my child," pointing to a little three-
year-old, "take it." The little innocent held up its hands
and cried for the father to take it, but he frowned and
looked at it as with a feeling of disgust, saying, "Go away.
You are not mine, for I have thrown you away, and will
not have you any more."

This spirit was but a reflex of that which animated the
whole band; "for," said they, "we are only squaws now.
We cannot hunt or defend our families. We are not any-
body now." But finally, though very sullenly, they went
home with the whites and pitched their tents in the back
yards. To us it did seem hard to have them feel so bad,
but they had no means of support for the winter, the cit-
izens could not afford to have their stock killed off and
their fences burned, and it was the better policy to feed the
Indians and have them under control. They could husk
corn, chop wood, help do chores, and be more comfortable
than if left to roam; but for all that, they were deprived of
that broad liberty to which they and their fathers before
them had been accustomed, therefore they felt it most
keenly. As I was the only white man who could talk
much with them, I was kept pretty busy laboring with
them.

In the evening of December 3rd the Indians had a letter
from Governor Young. I read and interpreted it to them.
Then for the first time they seemed reconciled to their sit-
uation. Their chief was filled with the spirit of approval
of the course that had been taken with tnem, and he
preached it long and strong. After that, the Indians and

350 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

the citizens got along very well together, and I continued
teaching and preaching to the former.

December 5th I took up school and taught the Indian
language, or rather the Shoshone dialect. I had about
thirty male adults attending. Brother George W. Hill, who
afterwards became the noted Shoshone interpreter in Weber
County, was one of them.

I was very much prospered that winter, purchased a
city lot and quarter of another on Main Street, fenced
the lot, closed my trading with the Indians, and settled with
D. H. Wells for the goods I had had.

CHAPTER XLVI.

ANOTHER MISSION TO THE INDIANS— START FOR THE SHOSHONE
CAMP — DIFFICULTIES OF TRAVEL — NEAR THE CROWS AND
BLACKFEET— A DREAM GIVES WARNING OF DANGER— DISCOVER
A LARGE BODY OF INDIANS— NO OPPORTUNITY OF ESCAPE-
RIDE INTO THE CAMP OF A HUNTING AND WAR PARTY -MEET
CHIEF WASHAKIE— A DAY'S MARCH— SITUATION CRITICAL— HOLD
A COUNCIL-PRESENT THE BOOK OF MORMON— ALL BUT WASH-
AKIE SPEAK AGAINST US AND THE BOOK — AWAITING THE
CHIEF'S DECISION.

AT a general conference held in Salt Lake City, April
6, 1855, I was again called to go east among the
Indians, to labor with and for them. I was appointed by
President Brigham Young to take the presidency of the
mission among the Shoshones. At this call I hastened to
provide as comfortably as possible for my family, and to fit
myself for the mission assigned me.

I set out on May 8, 1855, in company with four other
Elders, going east via Salt Lake City. I drove one of the
two teams, to pay for the hauling of my baggage, as I had

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 35 1

no team of my own. On the ioth we reached Salt Lake
City, and left the same day. On the nth we overtook
another wagon and two of our fellow-missionaries. We
arrived at Fort Supply on the 17th, having had a pleasant
trip. We found seven Elders planting the crop. On the
18th we joined them in the work of plowing and seeding,
and repairing the stockade and fences. On the 29th, eight
of us fitted up a four-horse team and wagon and six saddle
horses and started for the Shoshone camps, which we had
heard were on the headwaters of either the Green or the
Snake River. On June 1st we came to a tributary of the
Green River, called the Fontenelle. There we rested one
day, then moved camp up to the mouth of the canyon.

On the 3rd of June, E. B. Ward, Joshua Terry and I
crossed over the divide between the Green and Snake
Rivers, leaving Elder George W. Boyd in charge of camp.
The three of us went along the western slope, passing one
lodge of friendly Indians. On the 5th we came to Siveadus'
camp of twenty lodges. He and his people were very cool
towards us, so we proceeded to a stream called Piney, and
up that to the top of the divide, from where we could see
to the head waters of the Wind River. Having been told
that Washakie and his camp were somewhere on the head-
waters of Horse Creek, we made for that point, traveling
over snowdrifts that we supposed were fifty feet deep. The
descent was very steep, and in some places rather danger-
ous. That night our coffee basins, that were left standing
half or two-thirds full of water, had become frozen solid;
and the weather seemed seasonable for Christmas.

We suffered much with cold until 10 o'clock a. m., on
the 7th °f June. We turned northeast, and came onto
Horse Creek, camping just below its mouth, under a high,
steep bluff, in a fine grove of cottonwoods. Everything
seemed deathly still. We were in the borders of the Crow
and Blackfeet Indians' country, with jaded horses, so that if

352 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

we were discovered it would be impossible to escape. We
began to feel a little concern for our scalps, for we were
aware that both the Crows and the Blackfeet were hostile.
We gathered our wood, taking care that no branch or any-
thing connected with our fire would make much blaze or
smoke, lest by it we should be discovered. Everything
being placed in the best possible position for flight or fight,
as might seem best if emergency should arise, we rested
there that night; and something told us we should not go
farther north, but that south should be our course in the
morning.

Early the following morning, about 3 o'clock, I dreamed
that I saw a large band of Indians come down and pitch
camp on the creek above us. I was so forcibly impressed
that I awoke the other two men, and told them I felt con-
fident that the dream was true, and that we would prove it
at daylight. They agreed with me, so I told them to make
as dark a fire as was possible, and to get breakfast, wrhile I
would go on the high bluff that overlooked camp and the
country adjacent, where I would watch everything that
moved, and if there were friends or foes in the country we
would see them or their lights before they should see ours.
We all arose at once, the others preparing the meal and
saddling the horses ready for a hasty move, while I went
up on the bluff and there kept a sharp lookout until the
dawn. At the first streaks of daylight I saw a blue smoke
creeping up through the willows, perhaps a mile and a half
above me, then another and another, until it was plain there
was a camp of Indians just where I had dreamed they were.
Soon the tops of lodges appeared, then a band of ponies was
driven up. By this time it was fairly daylight.

I reported to the others what I had seen, and we took
breakfast. By the time the sun cast his earliest rays over
the landscape, we were in the saddle. Then came the ques-
tion, what shall we do? To flee was folly, for it was not

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 353

likely that we would escape the ever vigilant eye of the red
man, in an open country like that was. We decided to ride
out boldly on the open bench, and go straight to their camp.
No sooner had we done so than we were discovered, and
some twenty or more warriors started to encircle us, but
we rode direct for the camp without showing any concern.

Soon we were completely surrounded by a score of
armed warriors in full costume of war paint; as these closed
in their circle, they saluted us with a war-whoop. Some
had "green" scalps hanging from their bridle bits, while
others had them suspended from their surcingles. As the
warriors drew nearer to us it became evident that they were
of the Shoshone tribe, but we could not recognize any one
of them, and they did not appear to recognize us. When
we spoke to them and offered to shake hands, they shook
their heads and pointed us to the camp, while they proudly
escorted us there, some going before us and clearing the
way up to the lodge of Washakie, their chief, who, with
some of his leading men, stood waiting to receive us. As
we rode up, Washakie and his associates stepped forward,
and in a very friendly manner shook hands. By gestures
they said, "We are moving camp, and you will go and camp
with us tonight. Then we will hear what you have to say.
We fell in with a war party of Crows and Blackfeet yester-
day, and defeated them, and now we are fleeing to a safe
place for our women and children, lest they get reinforce-
ments and come upon us and our families;" then with a
motion, the chief said, "Forward," and soon the whole band
was on the move.

We estimated that the Indians numbered about three
thousand all told, and there was a pony for every soul; they
were well supplied with rifles, Colt's revolvers,1 bows, ar-
rows, shields and some cutlasses, and large, heavy knives.
They were excellently mounted, and their discipline could
not well be improved for the country they were passing

354 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

over and the force they were most likely to fall in with.
Their flanking party was so arranged as to act as a front
guard, and at the same time drive all the game into a circle
and thence into a second circle, so that everything, down to
the smallest chipmunk and squirrel, was bagged. This was
over a strip of country about eight miles by thirty; and the
pack of sagehens and squirrels that was brought into camp
was astonishing. The old and middle-aged men formed the
rear guard, while the whole female portion of the camp
drove the pack animals. The chief and his most confiden-
tial advisers rode just in front of these, and .we were called
to be a part of the escort.

When all was on the move, the camp made quite a
formidable appearance. It looked to us as if the shrubbery
on our way had changed suddenly into a moving army,
what with people and ponies all moving up hill and down,
over the rolling country, to the south, between the high
Snake and Wind River ranges of the great Rocky Moun-
tains. We thought of ancient Israel, of the Ten Tribes com-
ing from the north country, and of the promises that had
been made to the Indians by the prophets of their fore-
fathers.

To us this was a great day of thought and meditation, for
at times it seemed to us that we could see the opening glories
of a better day, and could almost declare, "Now is the dawn
of the day of Israel," for we had a letter from that modern
Moses, President Brigham Young, to read and interpret to
the red men, and also the Book of Mormon to introduce to
them that very evening, for the first time; and the question
uppermost in our minds was as to whether they would re-
ceive it or not, for there were many hard looking counte-
nances in the throng, and we could see plainly from their
frowns that they were not at all friendly to us.

When we had traveled till about 3 o'clock p. m., camp
was made in a lovely valley. The chief's lodge was first

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 355

pitched, clean robes spread, and we were invited to take
seats thereon. Our horses, packs and all, were taken charge
of by the women of the camp, just where we dismounted,
and we had no more to do writh our animals until we had
use for them next day.

A little fire having been built in the center of the lodge,
the councilors began to file into their places, each very
quietly shaking hands writh us, some of them very coldly.
When all was quiet, the chief said, by gesture, "Now tell
us what you have to say. Tell it straight, and no crooked
talk, for we do not want any lies, but the truth." It seemed
to us that they were ready for square work, so, with as few
words as possible, we told Washakie we had a letter from
the big Mormon captain to him and his people. Then he
said, "Tell us what it says," and between the three of us
we could tell him every word.

I am sorry that I have not at hand the full text of the
letter, but it was a very friendly document, and, so far as I
can now remember, told them that President Young had
sent us to Washakie and his people as their friends, that
we were truthful and good men, who would tell them many
good things about how to live in peace with all people;
that President Young and the Mormon people were true
friends to the Indian race, and wished them to be our
friends, that we might live in peace writh each other, for it
would not be many years before all the game would be
killed off or driven out of the country, and the white men
would want to come and settle in the land; that if the In-
dians would settle down and build houses like the white man,
and cultivate the land as the white man did, when the game
was gone they and their families would have something to
eat. President Young proposed to furnish seed and tools,
and some good men to show and help the Indians to put in
their crops. The letter further said that after a while,
when we understood each other better, we would tell them

356 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

about their forefathers, and about God; that we had a book
that told a great many things regarding the Great Spirit's
dealings with their forefathers, and what He would do for
them and their children. Then we presented the Book of
Mormon to Washakie, while his lefthand man filled the
pipe and drew a rude figure of the sun, in the ashes of the
smouldering fire; he also muttered a few unintelligible
words, smote his chest with his hand, took a whiff or two
from the pipe, passed it to the next man on his left, and
reached for the book; he opened it and said it was no good
for them — that it was only good for the white man.

In that same order the pipe and book passed around
the circle twenty-one times, and each time the Indian made
a new figure in the ashes, each representing a different
planet. During the whole time only one man spoke at
once. One said, "This book is of no use to us. If the
Mormon captain has nothing better to send than this, we
had better send it. his letter, and these men, back to him,
and tell him that they are no good to us, that we want
powder, lead and caps, sugar, coffee, flour, paints, knives,
and blankets, for those we can use. Send these men away
to their own land."

Another of the council, when it came to his turn, said,
"We have no use for this book. If the paper were all cut
out and thrown away, we could sew up the ends and put
a strap on it, and it would do for the white man's money
bag; but we have no use for it, for we have no money to
put in it." He could not understand what good it was to
the Shoshone, and said, "Let the white man take it and
go home, and come back writh something that we can eat,
or use to hunt with."

These were the sentiments expressed by the members
of the council. But Washakie had not yet spoken, and we
anxiously awaited his decision.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 357

CHAPTER XLVII.

WASHAKIE'S BOLD ATTITUDE— TELLS HIS COUNCILORS THEY ARE FOOLS
—SAYS THE WHITE MEN, WHO ARE WISE, HAVE BOOKS— TELLS
THE TRADITION OF HOW THE INDIANS FELL INTO DARKNESS-
GREAT SPIRIT ANGRY AT THE RED MAN— ADVOCATES THAT THE
INDIANS LIVE LIRE WrHITE PEOPLE— HIS POWERFUL SPEECH
GAINS THE DAY FOR US-SHOSHONE TRADITION— WE START HOME
—A HUNGRY TRIP— RETURN TO THE INDIANS, FINDING THEM
SULLEN— FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION AT FORT SUPPLY-
RETURN HOME.

THE book passed around the entire circle without a
solitary friend, and came back to our hands. The
chief reached for it, and when he got hold of the volume
he looked at and opened it, turned leaf after leaf as readily
as though he had been accustomed to books, then straight-
ened to his full height as he sat there, and looked around
the circle. "Are you all done talking?" he asked. Seeing
every man with his hand on his mouth, he spoke: "You
are all fools; you are blind, and cannot see; you have no
ears, for you do not hear; you are fools, for you do not un-
derstand. These men are our friends. The great Mormon
captain has talked with our Father above the clouds, and He
told the Mormon captain to send these good men here to
tell us the truth, and not a lie. They have not got forked
tongues. They talk straight, with one tongue, and tell us
that after a few more snows the buffalo will be gone, and
if we do not learn some other way to get something to eat,
we will starve to death. Now, we know that is the truth,
for this country was once covered with buffalo, elk, deer
and antelope, and we had plenty to eat, and also robes for
bedding, and to make lodges. But now, since the white
man has made a road across our land, and has killed off

358 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

our game, we are hungry, and there is nothing for us to
eat. Our women and children cry for food, and we have
no meat to give them. The time was when our Father
who lives above the clouds loved our fathers who lived
long ago, and His face was bright, and He talked with our
fathers. His face shone upon them, and their skins were
white like the white man's. Then they were wise, and
wrote books, and the Great Father talked good to them;
but after a while our people would not hear Him, and they
quarreled and stole and fought, until the Great Father got
mad, because His children would not hear Him talk. Then
He turned His face away from them, and His back to them,
and that caused a shade to come over them, and that is
whv our skin is black and our minds dark." Stripping up
his shirt sleeve, he continued: "That darkness came be-
cause the Great Father's back was towards us, and now
we cannot see as the white man sees. We can make a bow
and arrows, but the white man's mind is strong and light."
Picking up a Colt's revolver, he went on : "The white man
can make this, and a little thing that he carries in his
pocket, so that he can tell where the sun is on a dark day,
and when it is night he can tell when it will come daylight.
This is because the face of the Father is towards him, and
His back is towards us. But after a while the Great Father
will quit being mad, and will turn His face towards us.
Then our skin will be light." Here the chief showed his
bare arm again, and said: "Then our mind will be strong
like the white man's, and we can make and use things like
he does."

The chief next drew a strong contrast between the Indi-
an's way of living and the white man's, telling his people that
the mode of the white man was far preferable to that of the
Indian. He also told them that the Great Father had di-
rected "the big Mormon captain to send these men to us,
to talk good talk, and they have talked good, and made

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 359

our hearts feel very glad, and we feel that it is good for
them to come and shake hands. They are our friends, and
we will be their friends. Their horses may drink our
water, and eat our grass, and they may sleep in peace
in our land. We will build houses by their houses, and
they will teach us to till the soil as they do. Then, when
the snow comes and the game is fat, we can leave our
families by the Mormons, and go and hunt, and not be
afraid of our families being disturbed by other Indians, or
by anybody else, for the Mormons are a good people. Let
these three good men go, and find a good place for us to
live, close by where they live; and after a while we will
come, and they will show us how to build houses, for they
are our good and true friends, and we wish they would go
home, and bring some blankets, powder and lead, knives,
paints, beads, flour, sugar and coffee, to trade for our furs,
pelts and robes."

Washakie spoke thus with great power and wisdom,
while his wise old councilors sat with their heads bowed,
and their hands over their mouths, only grunting assent to
the strong points of his powerful speech, of which this ac-
count is only a brief synopsis.

No vote was taken, but seemingly every man gave his
assent to the chief's decision, by a grunt of approval. Then
each man quietly withdrew, and a kettle of boiled antelope
meat was set before us. The chief had a separate dish
put before him. Then we retired for the night.

The camp was almost destitute of food, notwithstand-
ing the squirrels and sagehens that had been taken the day
before. The whole camp was hungry, and the last morsel
of our provisions was gone, so next morning, June 9th, we
left camp, having a very scant breakfast of meat; but we
had introduced the Book of Mormon, and had had the
pleasure of having it received favorably by Washakie, the
great Shoshone chief, and his council, as the history of their

360 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

forefathers. The chief said the wolves had written that
book when they were men, but had since been turned into
wolves; that being an ancient tradition among the Sho-
shones.

We rode hard all day the day that we left the Shoshone
camp, and at sundown camped by a mountain leek spring,
without a bite to eat. Nor had we had anything to eat at
dinner time; so we made our supper of mountain leeks.
Next morning, the 10th, we had leeks for breakfast, and
at sunrise we were in the saddle, and on our way back to
where we had left the other brethren. I was on the lead,
with a double-barreled shotgun before me. We had not
gone very far before a blue mountain pheasant flew up from
under my horse's head, and lit in the trail a few yards in
front. I shot it so quickly that I never thought of my horse
being frightened. Another man jumped from his sad-
dle, and had the bird skinned before the blood had stopped
flowing, while the other built a fire. The pheasant was
broiled and eaten before the animal heat could have gone
out of it, if it had been left wrhere it was shot. Then we
traveled all that our horses could bear until 3 o'clock p. m.,
when we came to a flock of sagehens. As I was still on
the lead, I shot three of them before the rest fled. We
broiled one of them, and soon devoured it, as we had the
other bird, then continued our journey till evening.

As we traveled along by a small stream of water, I saw
a fish about eighteen inches long, and almost as quick as
thought shot at and stunned it, so that it turned up at the top
o' the water long enough for an Indian boy who was travel-
ing with us to shoot an arrow through it. With the arrow
sticking through it, the fish shot up to where the creek
widened out, and I, thinking the water only knee-deep,
plunged in up to my hips. I caught the fish, we broiled it
for supper, and ate it as we had done the birds and leeks —
without salt or pepper.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 361

On the nth we had a bird for breakfast, and traveled
till afternoon, counting that we had journeyed about one
hundred and twenty-five miles, and reached our camp,
where we found all well. The boys soon spread a white
man's meal before us, and each of us did our part without
a grumble. Then we made a short drive, and on the 12th
pushed forward on our way to Fort Supply, reaching that
place on the 14th. We found all well, and in good spirits.

June 1 5th we loaded two wagons with a large assortment
of Indian goods, as we had agreed to meet the Indians with
the merchandise, in twenty days, on the Labarg, a tribu-
tary of Green River. On the 20th we reached that stream
and as there were no Indians there I sent Joshua Terry, E.
Barney Ward, and my cousin James M. Brown, to inform
the red men that we were on time as agreed. It seemed
that after we left them they had quarreled and divided into
three parties, and came very near fighting among them-
selves. They were therefore very different in spirit to
when we left them. At last they began to come and lodge
in three distinct camps around our wagons.

On the 28th, all the Indians were very sullen and did
not seem to be the same people they were a few days
before. Knowing something of their nature, we turned
out about seventy-five dollars' worth of provisions and
other goods as a present. Still that did not seem to satisfy
them; they wanted all we had. Finally I told them that
we had done as we had agreed to do, and if they wished to
trade we were ready. They continued to manifest a very
mean spirit, and we were not able to sell more than five
hundred dollars' worth of goods out of a stock of three
thousand dollars.

On June 30th we left three of our party with the In-
dians, while the rest of us returned to Fort Supply with our
stock of goods. The Indians felt very bad because we had
not given them all we had. It was July 4th when we ar-

23

362 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

rived at the fort, and found the brethren there celebrating the
glorious Independence Day. I was quite ill, but the breth-
ren insisted on my taking the lead of the ceremonies. That
being my birthday, I accepted the offer, and we had a very
enjoyable time.

From July 5th to the 18th we continued our farm la-
bors. Then E. B. Ward and three or four other men, includ-
ing myself, set out on a little exploring trip among the hills.
We crossed over to Henry's Fork, then returned to Smith's
Fork, where we selected a place for the Indians to settle
when they saw fit. Having thus completed our obligations
to them, we returned to the fort, and continued our labors
until August 1st, when we had a recruit of twelve men sent
to us, under command of John Phelps. About August 3rd
or 4th I rebaptized all the Elders, and baptized three of the
first Shoshone women that ever came into the Church.
Their names were Mary, Sally Ward, and Corger. I also
baptized a young Indian man named Corsetsy. From the
5th to the 7th, the Indians came and went, attended our
meetings regularly, and felt very friendly and somewhat in-
quisitive. We gave them a few presents. They said they
were well pleased to have us locate in their country, and
were satisfied with the places we had selected for them to
settle and live upon as we did. On the 7th of August,
Joshua Terry and I started for Salt Lake City, each with an
ox team and two wagons loaded with furs, pelts and robes.
We arrived in the city on the nth, and reported our suc-
cess to Governor Young, who was pleased with our efforts.
We also settled for the goods we had had of him.

On the 13th I started for Ogden City, and reached
there the next day, meeting my wife and firstborn child, a
daughter, who was born August 10th.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 363

CHAPTER XLVIII.

AFFAIRS AT HOME— START FOR FORT SUPPLY— ILLNESS OF MYSELF
AND FAMILY— GIFT OF HEALING— TROUBLE WITH INDIANS AT
FORT SUPPLY— TURBULENT RED MEN— 1 HELP ONE OFF MY BED—
THEY PERSIST IN TAKING OR DESTROYING OUR PROPERTY— WE
STOP THEM— ONE ATTEMPTS TO KILL ME— INDIANS RETIRE FROM
THE FORT— ALMOST A CONFLICT— I CHECK THE WHITE MEN FROM
SHOOTING— INDIANS WITHDRAW-WE SEND TO GOVERNOR YOUNG
FOR ASSISTANCE— OUR STOCK AND GUARDS DRIVEN IN -INDIAN
AGENT APPEARS WITH ANNUITIES — THE SAVAGES SUBMIT—
WE GUARD DAY AND NIGHT— INDIANS MORE PEACEFUL— RE-
INFORCEMENTS ARRIVE FROM THE GOVERNOR— MATTERS QUIET
DOWN.

AUGUST 14, 1855, I went to Salt Lake City, and on
September 3rd returned home. On the 5th my fam-
ily were taken sick with cholera morbus.

Notwithstanding this sickness, I started on my return
to Fort Supply, for it was the faith of myself and family
that if I went to my mission they would be healed. Just as
I mounted my horse to start out, my uncle, Captain James
Brown, came along and said, "Jimmie, are you going off
and leaving your family sick?"

I told him, "Yes, sir."

Said he, "You are cold-hearted, and I would not do it."

When I told him that they with me believed that if I
would go to my missionary labors they would be healed
sooner than if I should neglect my duties in that line, he,
with uplifted hands, said, "Jim, you're right. Go ahead,
and God bless you. Your family shall be healed, and not
suffer. I will go in and pray for them." He did so, and I
afterwards learned that they were healed the same hour
that I proceeded on my journey. I did not see them again

364 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

till December 20th, when they told me that they had not
been sick one day after I left.

Although when I started out I was very ill myself with
the same trouble, and had to call at a friend's and get a dose
of painkiller, and take a rest for an hour or two before I
could proceed on my way to Salt Lake City, yet on the 13th
I started for Fort Supply, and overtook the two wagons
which had preceded me the day before. I travelled with
them until the 17th, then left them and went on horseback
forty-five miles to the fort. I was very sick for five days,
so that I had to keep my bed part of the time. I found all
well and the wheat harvest ready for the laborers, a heavy
frost having injured the crops considerably. On Friday,
September 28th, I sent four men to invite Washakie to the
fort, and on the 29th we learned that Chief Tibunduets
(white man's child) had just returned with his band from
Salt Lake City. October 1st I sent Isaac Bullock and
Amenzo Baker to visit him. They found him and all of his
band feeling very bad and revengeful.

October 10th Tibunduets and his band threw down our
fencing and came charging up through our field, riding
over wheat shocks, and singing war songs. At the same
time the warriors from a camp above came into the fort
with their weapons in their hands. Our men tried to be
friendly and talked peace to them, but it was not what they
wanted. They said they were "heap mad," for when they
were in Salt Lake City the big Mormon captain had written
with blood on their children, and a number of these had
died while they were among the Mormons. These Indians
refused the seats offered them, but jumped on the beds and
behaved very saucily, saying they wanted pay for the
death of their children who had died on the Mormon lands.
Of course, we could not afford to give presents of that
kind, and their demands were rejected.

Three of the hostile Indians went to my room, and

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 365

one engaging me in conversation, the other two jumped on
my bed and stretched themselves full length on it. My
cousin James M. Brown called my attention to their rude
actions, and I turned around and told them to get off my
bed, but they answered with a contemptuous laugh. I told
them a second time, and they sneered again. I stepped to
the side of the bed and told them the third time, and as
they refused, I jerked one of them off the bed so quickly
that it surprised him, and the other one thought he pre-
ferred to get off without that kind of help, and did so
quickly.

Tibunduets made heavy demands on us, which we could
not comply with. We told him that we were not prepared
to do his bidding, and he replied, "You're a wolf and a liar,
and you will steal." Then the Indians turned their horses
into our fields among our shocks of wheat and oats, while
their women went to digging and sacking our potatoes, the
Indians throwing down our fences in many places and or-
dering our men out of the fields. They told us to leave
their lands, and continued their insults until I sent some
men out to order their women out of the potato patch. The
squaws only laughed at our men, who returned and reported
the results. Then I went out myself, and as I passed a
brush fence, I caught up a piece of brush and started
towards the potato diggers, who screamed and ran away
before I got near enough to use the stick.

I returned to the house and soon was followed by two
young braves, who rode up in front of the door and called
for the captain. I answered in person, when the braves
said, "You heap fight squaw, you no fight Injun." They
continued their insulting words and threats of violence, un-
til at last I ordered them out of the fort, upon which one
of them drew his bow and pointed his arrow at me, within
three feet of my breast. At that one of my men pushed
the horse's head between me and the arrow. At the same

366 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

time Amenzo Baker handed me a Colt's revolver, and
another man covered the Indian with a revolver.

At that movement the Indians started for the big gater
and as there was quite a number of warriors inside the fort
I called my men out with their guns, for the Indians seemed
determined on bloodshed. They rushed outside, and the
white men followed them to where a young chief sat on his
horse, just outside of the gate. There must have been a
signal given to the camp above, for the warriors came run-
ning with their rifles in hand, until seventy-five to one
hundred warriors were on the ground, while there were
only about forty white men. Everybody wanted to say
something, and in the confusion that followed some ten or
twelve men leveled their guns to shoot, being in such close
quarters that they struck each other as they brought their
weapons into position.

At that moment I sprang under the guns and held
some of them up, and forbade the men to shoot. This act
seemed to please the young chief, and he commanded his
men to desist. I ordered my men back and into their
bastions, and to bar the gate. This done, I took a position
in the watchtower, where I talked with their chief through
a porthole, and told him that we were in a position to do
them harm, but did not wish to do so, yet they must withdraw
in peace and not molest our property, for we should defend
it and ourselves to the best of our ability. I said that if
they would withdraw peacefully we would not interfere
writh them, but to that they would not agree. After con-
siderable parleying, however, they did withdraw to their
camp among the cottonwood timber and willows on the
creek, and built large fires, around which they danced and
sang war songs the greater part of the night, while we
made every possible preparation for defense.

As captain of the fort, I wrote a despatch to the gov-
ernor and superintendent of Indian affairs, stating the facts.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 367

Then we covered with blankets a slab bridge that had to
be crossed near the gates, to deaden the sound of the
horse's feet as he went out, and a clever young man by the
name of Benjamin Roberts speeded away with the note to
Salt Lake City.

On the nth all was quiet. A few Indian lodges re-
mained near our fort, and the women and children were
around them as usual, so Isaac Bullock and I went down to
learn what the situation was. We found some of them friendly,
while others were very sulky. The main part of the In-
dian camp had gone down the creek, and we thought it
safe to turn our stock out under a mounted guard, with
one man in the watchtower to keep a lookout. About 2
p. m. the man at the watchtower sounded an alarm, saying
he saw a great dust in the north; and a few minutes later
he shouted that a large body of horsemen was in sight,
coming rapidly from the north, while our horse guards
were coming with our band of horses, hastening with all
speed to the fort. Immediately every man was called to
take a position for prompt action. I occupied a commanding
place, giving instructions to the men not to shoot without
my order, and then not unless they felt sure of making
every shot tell. They were told to see that every tube
was filled with powder, "for here they come," said I; "keep
cool boys, for it is a close race with our men and horses.'*

It was a question of which would reach the fort first,
they or the Indians. The race was so close that the guards
with our band just succeeded in getting in with the animals
in time to close the gates against the Indian ponies, whose
riders called out, "Open the gates!" They were answered
with a positive "No! not until you give up your arms."
They had three mountain men in their party of over one
hundred warriors, who shouted that they would be respon-
sible if we would let them in, for the Indian agent, George

368 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Armstrong, was a short distance in the rear, with two
wagons loaded with goods for the Indians.

As I had not been advised of the agent's approach
from an}- other source, I still refused them admittance.
Soon the agent's wagons were in sight, and some of his
party came up and told the Indians they would have to
give up their arms before they could enter the fort, for the
captain was determined not to allow them in with their
arms. At last they submitted, and the gate was opened
just wide enough for one man to pass through. I stepped
outside, the Indians handed their arms to me, I passed them
to the other men, and they placed them on a part of
a wagon sheet. Then the weapons were bound up
strongly and taken away and put in my room, and a guard
placed over them. The Indians were then told that they
could enter the fort and pass directly into the blockhouse,
but would not be permitted to wander around in the fort.

About this time the agent's wagons rolled up and were
hastily unloaded. Then a friendly smoke took place, and
a short council, in which the Indians agreed that they
would withdraw in peace and go to their hunting grounds,
and would not molest us any more. They said we might
remain on their lands let our stock eat grass and drink
water in peace; that we might cultivate the lands and use
what timber we wanted, and that they would be our friends,
and we their friends. The goods the agent had for the
Indians were then turned over to them.

On the 13th the red men brought in a report that the
Sioux Indians had killed one of Jack Robinson's beeves.
This they did to screen themselves, for it was they and not
the Sioux who had killed the animal. The agent gave
them a beef ox, and they moved down the creek. On the
14th the agent and party returned home, and we kept up a
guard day and night to prevent being surprised by the
renegades of the Indian camps; for we had evidence of their

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 369

treachery. We had given them back their arms, and when
they obtained all we had for them they said the white man
was "heap good, Shoshone no kay nabatint Mormon." (Sho-
shones do not want to tight Mormons.) They packed and
left, feeling quite pleased.

General R. T. Burton with a party of twenty-five men
were met at Fort Bridger on the 16th, by myself and a
small party. On the 17th I went with them to Fort Supply,
while they concluded to send out a scout to ascertain
whether the Indians really had crossed the Green River or
not, thinking that if they did we could be satisfied that all
was right. When our scouts returned and reported that
all had crossed the river and gone farther on, General Bur-
ton and command returned home, while myself and men
did up our fall work at Fort Supply.

CHAPTER XLIX.

START HOME FROM FORT SUPPLY— CAMP ALONE AT NEEDLE ROCK-
AWAKENED BY MY HORSE— SURROUNDED BY WOLVES— FLASH
POWDER ALL NIGHT TO KEEP OFF THE WILD BEASTS— REACH
HOME— SUPPLIES SHORT— HARDSHIPS OF A GRASSHOPPER YEAR-
GETTING MY CATTLE OUT OF A CANYON— PERILS OF BEING
CAUGHT IN THE SNOW— GREAT SUFFERING— BREAKING A SNOW
ROAD— BUSINESS AFFAIRS.

THE writer left Fort Supply December 14, 1855, and
started for his home in Ogden City on horseback and
alone, having placed Isaac Bullock in charge of affairs at
the fort. The first night out I camped at a place called
Needle Rock, just east of Yellow Creek. There I selected
a spot where the feed was good, picketed out my horse,

370 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

set my saddle over the picket pin, and spread my blankets-
so as to lay my head on the saddle, lest the coyotes should
cut my riata and turn loose the horse.

As I was alone and yet in an Indian country, I did not
make a fire, but ate a cold lunch, rolled up in my blankets,
and soon dropped to sleep, to be awakened by my horse
snorting and kicking. The animaJ brushed his nose on my
head before I was sufficiently awake to understand what
he meant by his actions; but no sooner was I aroused than
I found that he was surrounded by a pack of large, grey
wolves which were growling and snapping at his heels and
at each other. The night was so dark that I could plainly
see the fierce eyes of my ravenous enemies shining in the
darkness all around me.

I had a good Colt's revolver, but having heard that if
wolves smelled blood when they were gathered in such
a pack they would attack man or beast, I reserved my fire.
I remembered having heard that these wild beasts were
afraid of the flash and smell of burning powder, so I spread
some gunpowder on the leathers of my saddle, and with
flint and steel struck fire, and in that way flashed powder
by intervals all night. The wolves would run off, but re-
turn in a short time, as if determined to have flesh. My
horse was too weak to attempt to flee, and as for myself I had
become so chilled and benumbed that it was with some diffi-
culty that I could keep up the flashes till daylight, at which
time the pack of wolves went away, leaving horse and
rider to resume their sufficiently hazardous journey without
such unwelcome company.

I crossed over to the head of Echo Canyon, where I
found a yoke of oxen that some emigrants had left to die.
As the animals had got rested up, I thought I could drive
them in and save their lives, but had to abandon them in
Round Valley, Weber Canyon. Then, on a poor, jaded

372 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

horse, I pursued my way, arriving at home about 9. p. m.
on December 20th.

I found all well, but winter supplies of food so short
that I sold the only respectable suit of clothes I had
for breadstuff. I had about worn out all the rest of my
clothing when 1 was in the Indian country, so that I had
but one old flannel shirt left, and that I had made out of
two old ones. I had one pair of buckskin pants, a rough
beaver cap and a pair of moccasins.

It will be remembered by the early residents of Utah
that the year 1855 was a grasshopper year, as well as a
season of great drought, and therefore one of the hardest
years that many of the people had ever experienced, both
for man and beast. Hundreds of horses and cattle starved
to death, and many of the people barely escaped the same
sad fate. I could do no better than to let my horses go
out on the range to die of starvation and cold, and turn my
hand to anything I could get to do to earn an honest dollar.

Soon after arriving home I was called to devote a por-
tion of my time in traveling from settlement to settlement,
and preaching to the people; also in visiting the Indian
camps along the Weber River and preaching and talking to
them, for it was a terrible winter for the Indians. Before
entering upon these duties, however, I returned to where
I had left my caitle to rest for a few days, and where the
feed was tolerably good. When I started out it commenced
to storm and by the time I reached the cattle the snow was
eighteen inches deep.

Before I could get out of the canyon with the animals
the snow was two and a half feet deep. My horse gave
out, and I had to travel on foot, breaking the trail and lead-
ing the horse a few rods, then going back and driving up
the cattle. I continued these efforts until myself and stock
were exhausted. When I tried to start a fire, my matches
were all wet. I had left my rifle and shotpouch at home,

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 373

and in the pouch were my faithful flint and steel, which had
never failed me. But for the snow, the night was total
darkness. At last I reached a clump of cottonwood trees,
and for a time I thought I would die of exhaustion and
thirst. I knew that if I ceased to exert myself I would chill
to death. Finally it occurred to my mind to tear off a piece
of my shirt, roll it up, hold it in one hand, and with my re-
volver shoot through it and start a fire. I found a large
sagebrush, and from it gathered the dry bark. This I
wrapped around the roll of shirt, then fired a shot through
it, and in that way succeeded in starting a flame. As there
was plenty of wood handy, I built and kept up a large fire
during the night. The river banks were so steep that it
was impossible in the darkness to get water to drink. I
was driven almost frantic by thirst, but finally thought to
take off my heavy leggings, place them in a position so
that they would form a kind of basin, and cover them with
snow, so the fire would melt it to water in the leather bowl.
In that way I obtained water and quenched my terrible
thirst. My blankets and everything I had on had been
soaked thoroughly with the melting snow, but I succeeded
in drying all during the night.

The dawn of day was welcome indeed, but my troubles
were not yet over, for I found my animals standing in snow
to their necks, and they would not move out of their tracks
only as I broke an opening around and urged them on.
The snow was so wet and heavy that it was an awful task
to break a road and get those animals through for the first
five miles. After that the snow was not so deep, and with
a very great effort and hazard of life I succeeded in reach-
ing Ogden, as thankful as I ever was in my life to get home
— to "home, sweet home."

Being once more with my family and friends, I got up
my winter wood and visited the people as a teacher. In
the spring I finished a two-roomed house that I had under

374 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

way on Main Street. I then moved into it, preparatory to
going to Fort Supply again, but was honorably released by
President Young from further missionary labors in that
part. I rented land, put in corn and potatoes, and spent
the fore part of the summer at farm labor. Having ac-
quired a fourth interest in three ferries on Green River, 1
arranged with my three partners, Isaac Bullock, Louis
Robinson and W. Hickman, so that I did not have to go
there, as my health was not very good; hence I remained
at Ogden.

CHAPTER L.

CALLED ON A MISSION TO DEEP CREEK INDIANS— SHORT TIME FOR THE
JOURNEY— PREPARE FOR THE TRIP— JOURNEY IX THE DESERT—
HORSES STOLEN— TRAVEL ON FOOT— SAVED FROM PERISHING
WITH THIRST— MEET THE INDIANS— COULD UNDERSTAND AND
SPEAK TO THEM— INDIAN AGENT'S OFFER— I ACT AS INTER-
PRETER—PREACH TO THE INDIANS— ON THE RETURN TRIP-
VISIT GOVERNOR YOUNG WITH A DELEGATION OF BANNOCK IN-
DIANS.

ON August 22, 1856, I received a letter from President
Young, calling me to take a mission of thirty days,
west across the desert, to Deep Creek, to the Indians in
that region. As I did not understand fully the object of
the mission, I thought there was some mistake in the letter,
since the distance that had to be traveled out and back
would be about five hundred miles and I was to preach to
a tribe of Indians I had never seen, much less being able to
speak their dialect, and do it all with only thirty days'
rations. To me it was, to say the least, a singular call; so
I went to Salt Lake City August 23rd, to find out that the
letter meant just what it said, no less; only that Geo. W.
Armstrong, an Indian agent from Provo, was going out to

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 375

distribute some goods among the Indians, and it would be
a good time to send a few missionaries to preach to the red
men.

From Salt Lake City I returned to Ogden and purchased
a splendid mare of widow Ruth Stuart, on credit, promising
to pay when I could. On the 27th I joined Mr. Armstrong
and twenty-five other men in Salt Lake City, fitting up for
the journey, some as guards to the agent and some as mis-
sionaries. Among those I remember were Seth M. Blair,
Oliver Huntington, Ormus Bates, John Whitney, J. Cooley,
Harrison Sagers, Harrison Sevier, and Peter Conover;
there were others whose names I do not now recall.

The company left the city on August 29th, and trav-
eled through Tooele, Rush Valley, and over Johnson's
Pass into Skull Valley. With five others of the party,
however, I went around by what is now called Dugway,
and met the rest of the company at the springs in Skull
Valley.

On September 2nd, we reached Granite Rock, some-
times called Granite Mountain, as it stands out in the midst
of the desert. There the company camped at some alkali
springs, where, with cup and bucket, it took all night to
dip water for the stock. Next morning we found that the
Indians had stolen all the team horses, eight head, so the
agent called on the men to volunteer their saddle horses to
take his wagons across the desert. Among the rest, I let
my horse go, and eight of us set out on foot to cross the
desert, while some went after the stolen stock. Other
horsemen pushed across to water, and the teams brought
up the rear.

The route was brushy and rocky, in some places there
was heavy sand, in other parts stiff alkali mud, and much
of the time without a sign of a road. The writer was
taken very sick with a severe bowel complaint and was
compelled to turn to one side, so I fell behind my fellow

376 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

footmen. The teams lagged in the sand and mud till long
after dark. I became so weak and faint that I could not
travel any longer, and I laid down on the damp ground, so
tired and thirsty that it seemed impossible for me to live
until morning without relief. When I had laid down for
some time, I heard my bunkmate, Doc. Woodward, shout
that he had found water and filled his canteen, and was
coming back hunting the missed and needy one. When
he got near enough for me to answer him, I did so, and
with a drink I was somewhat revived. I was helped on
my friend's horse, and we proceeded on for about five miles
to camp and water. One of the party gave me a brandy
toddy, spread my blankets, and I turned in, a very grateful
sufferer. I was given a cup of coffee, after which I felt
very much relieved, and by morning was ready to resume
the journey, the wagons having come up about n p. m.
Next morning, September 4th, we moved up five or six
miles, to what was called Fish Springs. There we found
a number of Indians, and the party pitched camp for a few
days.

When the animals had been cared for and fires built,
the Indians gathered around in considerable numbers. As
they were talking among themselves, the writer understood
and commenced to speak with them in their own dialect, at
which they were surprised and said one to another, "Who
is this man, that talks our talk? He has never been in our
country before." I was no less astonished myself; and I
call the reader's attention now to the peculiar feature of a
man being called to fit himself out with provisions to last
him thirty days, travel out in the desert two hundred and
fifty or three hundred miles, and preach to a tribe of In-
dians in whose country he had never been and whom he
had never seen before. Yet when the agent's interpreters
failed to get the Indians to understand, the agent asked if I
could talk with them. I told him I had never seen these

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 377

Indians before that hour, "but," said I, "I understand them,
and you see they understand me." "\es," said the agent,
but I do not see how it is that you can talk with them. I
have two men employed as interpreters, but they cannot
make the Indians understand. Now if you can make them
comprehend what I wish to tell them, I will pay you three
dollars per day from the time that you left home until you
return there."

"I do not know whether I can do your talking or not,"
was my response to this proposition. "I came here to
preach to this people, and I have power given me to do it
in their own tongue. But I do not know whether I will be
permitted to speak for you or not; if I am, I will talk for
you." "All right," said Mr. Armstrong, "have them form
a circle in front of my wagons, and tell them who I am, and
what the great father at Washington has sent me here for;
that I have brought them clothing and blankets as a present
from the great father at Washington, and that he expects
them to be good people and live in peace with each other,
and also with other people, and if they will do so the great
father will send good men to bring more goods to them."

When I told them what the agent wanted, they at once
formed a circle as desired, to the satisfaction of all present.
Then the agent distributed the goods, to the great pleasure
of the Indians. He talked very kindly to them and gave
them much good advice. I interpreted what he said, and
then continued to preach to them, telling them about the
Book of Mormon and their forefathers, and many other
things of interest to them. I seemed to have perfect liberty
of speech as I desired it, in their dialect, and they listened
attentively to all I had to say.

The next day Seth M. Blair, Peter Conover, Ormus
Bates and myself and four or five other men that belonged
to the missionary part of the camp, employed an Indian
guide to travel south around the head of Deep Creek, to see

378 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

what natural advantages there were for settlements, but we
failed to find anything inviting until we came to Deep
Creek, where the country seemed quite suitable for stock
raising. About the nth of September the party returned
to the agent's camp, where we again met with many of the
Indians, who wished us to stop and live with them as their
friends, adding, "If you will not stop with us, then tell the
big Mormon captain to send some good Mormon men that
will tell the truth and show us how to make clothes like the
white man."

It was the next day, I think, that the party started
back to Salt Lake City, the agent having secured his team
liorses. We traveled north of Granite Rock, and around
the point of the mountain to the lake, thence along the
shore to Grantsville. We tarried one day with Mr. Cooley,
and partook of the hospitality of himself and family.

After our visit to the Deep Creek Indians, some of
them claimed to have received dreams and visions, in
which heavenly messengers appeared and told them to
go into Tooele and call on the Bishops, who would tell
them what to do, and for them to obey the Bishops. Ac-
cordingly, scores of them went to Grantsville and related
their story, when they were told to believe in Christ and
repent and be baptized. Many of them obeyed this advice,
and then a missionary was sent out and located among
them.

With our one day's rest at Grantsville, the party con-
tinued on to Salt Lake City, where Mr. Armstrong paid
me ninety dollars in cash for my services as interpreter. I
returned home and paid the ninety dollars on the mare I
had purchased on credit for the mission. My labors as a
missionary, however, were still called for, and I visited all
the settlements in Weber County, also the Indian camps,
and acted as a presiding teacher in Ogden City, often being
called to arbitrate differences between the white people

•

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 379

and Indians. About that time Snag, the Bannock Indian
chief, and twelve of his prominent men called on me to ac-
company them to Salt Lake City to see President Brigham
Young on some business. They said they wished a friendly
talk, and to tell some of their grievances and ask some
favors of him. The latter constituted the greater part of
their business. I accompanied them to President Young's
residence, where he received them kindly, furnishing them
with necessary supplies of food and fuel. Next day, after
they had had a very friendly talk with the President, he
gave orders to the Bishops in the northern settlements to
supply the Indians' wants as far as practicable, as it was
cheaper to feed than to fight them. Then after all the
complaints of the Bannocks had been satisfactorily adjusted,
we left, they fqr their homes in the north near Fort Hall,
the writer for Ogden, where I continued my labors.

CHAPTER LI.

UTAH MILITIA ORGANIZED— ELECTED CAPTAIN OF A COMPANY— HEAR
OF JOHNSTON'S ARMY-SCOUTING PARTY SENT OUT— I AM CHOSEN
AS GUIDE— TRAVEL TO THE BEAR LAKE COUNTRY-COLD NIGHTS
AND LITTLE FOOD— COMPLAINT IN THE PARTY— PROVE THAT I AM
RIGHT— REACH LOST CREEK— SOME OF THE MEN OBJECT TO
DOUBLE GUARD— A DISCOVERY* THAT REMOVES ALL OBJECTIONS-
STRIKE THE TRAIL OF HORSEMEN— PREPARE FOR AC HON— TAKE
A CAMP BY SURPRISE— THE MEN ARE FRIENDS-ARRIVE AT OGDEN
—CALLED TO GO ON AN IMPORTANT ERRAND -TUSSLE WITH AN
INDIAN— FAIL IN GETTING DESIRED INFORMATION, AND RETURN
TO OGDEN.

IN the spring of 1857 I rented some land and put in a
crop. Soon after this an order came from Governor
Young to the Weber County officials to organize the militia
of the county, which was done. I was elected captain of
the first company of infantry in the Weber militia district.
The company consisted of captain, commissioned and non-
commissioned officers, and one hundred men of the rank

380 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

and file. Chauncey W. West, then the Bishop of Weber
County, was commissioned general of the district. He
appointed days for drill, and four companies came together
in Ogden City for that service.

At that time we had not learned of threatened danger
from any source except occasional Indian raids; but no
sooner had we got properly organized and ready for self-
defense than news came from the east to Governor Young
that an invading army was coming, with hostile threats
against the citizens of Utah.

As the governor had not been officially notified of the
approach of United States troops, his official oath bound
him to repel any invading forces. He accordingly sent out
scouts to ascertain the movements of the troops referred to,
and soon learned that there was a well equipped army of
nearly ten thousand men on their way west, with the
avowed purpose, it was said, of destroying the Mormon
Church and people.

Some time in August General West called out twelve
or fifteen men as a scouting party, to go over in the Bear
Lake country, along the emigrant road, and from there to
the head of Lost Creek and down the Weber River. He
had heard of a party going up Lost Creek, and over to
the Bear Lake country. General West appointed Major
Monroe to take charge of the party, of which the writer
was called to be one, as I had been acquainted with moun-
tain travel and understood the Indian language. General
West told the major to make no move of importance with-
out consulting me as to the journey.

The party proceeded to the divide between North
Ogden and Ogden Valley, where we halted and the major
privately told me that he was not accustomed to journeys
of that kind, and wished me to lead the party through, for
I had more experience than he had. I declined the respon-
sibility, but the major said: "I will be responsible if you

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 381

will lead," so I headed out to Blacksmith Fork and thence
to Bear Lake, and around the east side thereof to the river.
We crossed to the California road near the present site of
Montpelier, thence back east to the road where Cokeville
settlement is now located. As we failed to learn anything
of importance, we returned back over the river and struck
out for the head of Lost Creek, where it was supposed
that we would fall in with the scouts from the approaching
army.

The nights began to be cold, and the food supply was
getting low. The horses were somewhat jaded, the route
very rough, and the most of the party were young and in-
experienced. They began to complain and said that no-
body had ever traveled in so rough a country as that, and
it was all foolishness to be wearing ourselves out in that
way. They said the writer did not know himself where
he was going, and I had no business to be on the lead, as
that was Major Monroe's place. The major, however,
promptly told the party that I was in the proper place.
Finally I called a halt and told the party that I knew that
we were going just right and had been on a trail all day,
but they did not know it. They asked, "Where is your
trail?" and I again told them that we were on it. They
laughed at me when I said, "1 can prove it to you, and
even tell you the color of the horses that have passed this
way." But they thought me a fool to talk thus, so I told
one of the young men to jump down and remove the leaves
from a root of a tree that stood near by a steep bank, as it
was plain to the practiced eye that an old trail passed there,
and when the leaves were removed he would find that the
bark had been bruised at the roots of the tree by the hoofs
of passing horses. He found the trail and the bark off the
tree roots, as I had said. I told the men to look on the
tree about the height of a pony's side, and they would find
hair that would tell them the color of the ponies that

382 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

had passed there. They found bay and white horses' hair.
Next I said to them, "Look on the point of that snag which
projects over the trail." They did so, and found a dupli-
cate of the hair they had found on the tree. Then they
said that I could prove anything I pleased, and they would
not dispute with me any more.

The party passed on down Lost Creek, to a point
where the country was more open. When camping time
came wre turned into a little creek bottom and put out the
stock. I remarked to the major that I felt as though we
should put on a double guard that night. This was more
than some of the boys thought they could stand. Several
said that I would run the party to death, bat that they
would not submit to any extra guard. Others said there
was no use for any guard, for nobody but Brown would
ever lead a party there; but just then some one hallooed,
and we found, on looking, that no one was missing from
camp. One said it was a coyote, another that it was an owl.
Again the cry was heard distinctly, and no doubt remained
of its being a human voice. Then the order was given to
get up the stock, ready for whatever might come. The
horses were soon picketed near camp, and every man
thought it was proper to put on a double guard that night,
some of the boys remarking that Brown was not such a
fool as they had thought.

Things settled down for the night, and next morning
the party started out. We had gone less than a mile when
we saw fresh horse tracks made by shod horses, and the
droppings looked so new that I directed a young man to
ascertain if they were warm. The novel way in which the
young man performed that task created some merriment
for the moment. Then the party continued on a short dis-
tance, when we saw a smoke just over the creek bank
ahead. Every man was ready to obey orders, and all dis-
mounted at command and tightened up their saddle girths.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 383

Then came the order to see that every tube was filled with
dry powder, and each man was assigned his position for
action.

The party was instructed not to halt without orders,
and not to let a horse put his head down to drink. If per-
chance we saw a blanket, a handkerchief, or any camp
equipage, we were to pass it unnoticed; if brush or any
obstructions were observed, we might be certain that all
such signs meant ambuscade. We then advanced cautiously
and found evidence of a party about our own number, ly-
ing encamped at the fire. We pressed forward on the trail,
and found several bushes lapped across it, so that we felt
certain we would soon fall in with those ahead, whom we
felt sure could be none other than a scouting party from
Johnston's army. We prepared for the worst, and as we
were moving on double-quick time we saw a man running
towards a grove of cottonwood trees, from a point of the
mountain. Next we saw the horses of a party of scouts,
the top of whose tent was soon discovered.

Quickly capturing the horses, we charged on the tent
and surrounded it, taking the men by surprise. As they
began to file out of their tent, our party leveled their rifles
and called on them to surrender. Just at that moment one
of the surprised party recognized one of our men, so that
we only required them to acknowledge that they were
"dropped on," a phrase used in those times to express the
condition. We were not long in ascertaining that the party
was a scout from Davis County, in pursuit of the same re-
ported detachment we had been sent to intercept. But
neither of us had seen or heard anything of the party that
was supposed to be in the region of country we had
been over. Without much delay, our party hastened home
to Ogden City, and joined our regiment, finding much ex-
citement and hearing many rumors.

It seemed that there was no rest for me, for in a day

384 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

or two General West called on me to visit the camp of James
and Ben Simons, who lived about twenty miles up the
Weber River. The men named were Cherokee Indians
who, it was said, were in possession of some important in-
formation which the general wanted to get. He told me to
learn what I could from the Simonses, as they were friendly.

When I got to the mouth of the canyon I chanced to
meet Ben Simons coming from Salt Lake City. It was
evident the Indian had been drinking, and as soon as I met
him he drew his Colt's revolver and said, "Hold on there!''
threatening to kill me if I was Uncle Sam's man. I suc-
ceeded in riding close alongside of him, grabbed his pistol
and held the muzzle away from me. I tried to persuade
him not to shoot, for we must be good friends. He yelled
again that if I were a Mormon I must fight his old uncle
or he would kill me. He was a powerful man, and I had
all that I could do to keep the pistol turned from me.

For ten miles I had to tussle with that Indian, and at
times thought I would have to shoot him in self-defense;
but after the most disagreeable and hazardous ten miles'
ride of my whole life, we came to Gordon Beckstead's
ranch. Simons regarded Beckstead as his friend. The
latter persuaded the warrior to dismount and have a drink
of whisky with him, and let me go my way, for I was a
good friend to both of them.

I went to James Simons' camp but failed to get the in-
formation desired. Simons was very friendly, and said that
if he heard anything of interest he would be pleased to let
us know it at once. I then returned to my regiment, which
was ordered into camp the next day. We bivouacked on
the east bench in Ogden City.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 385

CHAPTER LIL

OFF ON ANOTHER SCOUT— AGAIN ON BEAR RIVER— DREAM OF SEEING
TROOPS— DREAM FULFILLED— SEND WORD BACK OF DISCOVERY-
FIVE HUNDRED CAVALRYMEN— HEAVY STORM— MY ONLY REMAIN-
ING COMPANION TAKEN ILL— HE IS HEALED AND I AM STRICKEN
DOWN— CAMP IN THE SNOW— MY COMPANION, EXPECTING ME TO
DIE, PREPARES TO TAKE MY BODY HOME— HE RETURNS, PRAYS FOR
ME, AND I AM HEALED -STRICKEN DOWN AGAIN-I DIRECT HIM
TO LEAVE ME AND RETURN HOME— HE OBEYS RELUCTANTLY— I
EXPECT TO DIE— PECULIAR EXPERIENCES— FOUR YOUNG MEN,
SENT BY MY COMRADE, COME TO MY RELIEF— JOURNEY ON-
LIGHTING FIRE IN A STORM— THE YOUNG MEN PRAY FOR ME, AND
I AM RELIEVED— TRAVELING HOME WARD— KIND TREATMENT—
RKACH OGDEN— ACT AS SEXTON— GUARD OVER SPIES— UTAH MILI-
TIA RECALLED— MISSIONARY LABORS IN WEBER COUNTY.

r f^HE first night in camp at Ogden, General West and
1 his adjutant, D. Gamble, called at my tent, and told
me I was wanted to take charge of a scouting party to go
over in the Bear Lake country, and start by sunrise next
morning. They directed me to choose the men I would
like to have accompany me, and they should be released to
go home and prepare. I made a list of five young, active
men, who met me next morning at sunrise, having received
their orders. We proceeded to the emigrant road across
the Bear River, about fifteen miles above the lake. There
we met with some emigrants, but could not learn anything
from them, so we crossed back to the foot hills, and there
camped in a secluded place, where we could overlook the
emigrant road. Next morning at 4 o'clock I awoke from a
dream, in which I had seen two hundred and fifty cavalry-
men come and pitch camp just across the river from where
we were; then I saw two hundred and fifty more come and
reinforce the first detachment; I also saw their baggage

386 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

and artillery wagons. I was impressed so forcibly with the-
dream that I called my comrades and told them to prepare
for a move, while I went up one of the high points and
watched developments. At daybreak I saw the camp of
the first two hundred and fifty men, saw them form in line
for roll call, and a mounted guard drive their horses across
the river towards our camp.

The main object of our scout was to learn if the army
or any portion of it was coming down Bear River and into
Salt Lake Valley from the north, and if we saw any troops
on that route to communicate the information to head-
quarters at the earliest moment possible, so that our forces
could meet them at the best places on the route, and repulse
them. That that end might be served I sent two of my
men with a dispatch to General West, and as soon as the
messengers had gone out of call 1 again went on the hill..
Everything was ready to move as developments might in-
dicate, and just as the first party was saddling its horses I
saw the second two hundred and fifty come up and join the
first party. Then the five hundred cavalrymen proceeded
down the river, just as I had seen them in my dream. This
necessitated a second dispatch and two more of my men,
leaving me only one, with whom I followed up the troops
till they camped. It rained and snowed alternately all that
day and night. My comrade, James Davis, and I went
after dark within the lines of the troops, but did not learn
of their intentions. Davis was taken with something like a
congestive chill, and we were forced to retreat into the hills,
where we camped for the night. Davis was so bad that I
worked in the storm all night with him and prayed for him;.
at last he was healed and we set out on our way home at
daylight.

About 8 a. m. the writer came down sick, just the
same as my friend had been, only I also suffered with pleu-
risy in the right side. I could ride no further, so we camped

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 387

in the snow, where it was about eight inches deep. Snow
was still falling as it can only in the mountain country. Our
clothes were wet as could be, and our blankets were in the
same condition. The only food we had was the crumbs
and dust from some crackers.

Davis succeeded in making a fire, but by that time I had
cramped so that I could not speak. Davis, supposing I was
dying, started out to a quakingasp grove to get some poles
to make an Indian litter or drag, on which he thought to
take my body home. As he went he felt he ought to have
faith and pray for his comrade, as he had been prayed for
the night before; so he fell on his knees and prayed, as he
afterwards said, as he never had done before. Then some-
thing said to him, "Go back and put your hands on him
and pray again, and he will be healed;" and it was even so.

We then traveled some fifteen miles, when the sun
shone. We partly dried our blankets by a fire and the sun,
and continued our journey for some ten miles, when I had
a second attack of illness, which was so severe that I
thought I had better die alone in the mountains than to allow
the enemy to gain the advantage in the country. Conse-
quently, I told Davis to make my horse fast by the trail
and spread my blankets, that I might lie down. This done,
I directed him not to spare horseflesh, but take the news
to our friends as soon as it was possible. Davis did not
want to leave me in that plight, but was urged to go. He
staited reluctantly, and in tears.

For a time it seemed that I had rendered my last ser-
vices to family and friends, as I lay down by an Indian
trail, sixty miles from any white man's habitation. While I
was pondering the situation, a magpie came flying down
over me, and said "quack," then alighted on a willow near
by, in plain sight. Next came a raven, which gave its
"croak," as it settled down near me, and it seemed as
though it had found prey. Being aware of the habits of

388 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

these carrion birds, I wrapped my head in blankets, to pre-
vent the birds from picking out my eyes, if the worst came
to me; yet I knew that my body could not be protected
from the wild beasts that roamed in the mountains, such as
the bear, wolf, wolverine, panther or mountain lion, wild
cat and lynx, some of which, if not all these various kinds,
would be tugging at my carcass inside of twenty-four
hours.

Then the birds circled over me, as if to say, "We
want an eye," or some fragment of my body. I felt that
my time was nigh, and unless the providence of God inter-
posed, I would go the way of all the earth before the rising
of the sun. I was chilled to the very bone, and cramped
so that it was impossible for me to build a fire. It did not
seem possible for me to survive until my companion could
ride sixty miles and send relief.

While I pondered the situation, four young men who
had been sent with fresh horses and food supplies came up,
they having met Davis, who sent them on with all speed.
I think the eldest of them was not over seventeen years
old. They soon built a fire and prepared much needed re-
freshments, and I was greatly benefited by that special
providence of God, as it certainly seemed to me to be.
While I partook of the food, the young men saddled my
horse, rolled up my blankets, and we rode eight or ten
miles that night, and camped while the rain came down in
torrents. The boys soon provided me with shelter by
sticking willows in the ground and winding the tops to-
gether and spreading blankets over, so that it afforded a
little! protection for me, and I was soon wrapped in wet
blankets.

• The next thing was to start a fire. Every match had
got wet, and the boys thought it impossible to make a fire,
so they asked me what they should do. I told them to get
some cotton out of a quilt if they could find a dry spot in

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 389

it, then put a small priming of powder in a rifle and ram
down the cotton on the powder; in the next place, go to the
heaviest topped sagebrush they could find, and carefully
reach under and strip the dry bark off the main stalk of
sagebrush, and in that way get a tinder, then come to my
shelter and hold the bark loosely over the muzzle of the
gun and fire it off. They got a light, but they had too
much powder and it blew the fire out. They tried repeat-
edly without satisfactory results, and the case was becoming
desperate, as darkness was coming on. Two of them got
under cover with me, and I finally succeeded in measuring
the powder to them. Then they started a flame, and as
wood was plenty they made a rousing fire.

In the meantime I took to cramping and suffered so
severely that one of the boys remarked, "Brother Brown
will die. O what shall we do?" Another said, "Let us
pray." Then one led in prayer, and he prayed mightily.
As soon as he was through, one said, "Let us go in and
lay hands on him," and in a moment they all gathered
around me, placed their hands on my head, and prayed
from their hearts. The cramping ceased and never re-
turned as severe as it was before; yet I suffered greatly
from the pain in my side. The writer regrets very much
that he cannot recall the names of those young lads. I
believe they were all sent from Willard City, Box Elder
County. God bless them, whoever they are. Their action
showed them to be young heroes, with great faith in God;
and but for them I would have died that fearful night.

Next morning, the party was up, and off we went
down Blacksmith's Fork Canyon and across to Wellsville,
where I was taken in by Bishop Peter Maughan and his
good wife, who did all they could to relieve my sufferings.
The Bishop also saw that the boys were well taken care
of.

The following morning Samuel Obray drove up with

390 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

a light, covered wagon, and a good team, and I was helped
into the wagon. Sister Maughan had provided a large
canteen full of composition tea. She came to the wagon,
and without thinking of anything else, she placed it partly
under the side where I had the pleurisy pain. Then the
team started for Brigham City, and before we had gone
rive miles the pain had disappeared from my side, thanks
to the Bishop and Sister Maughan for their special kind-
ness, and S. Obray. The latter delivered me into the hands
of Colonel Smith in Brigham City, where I was cared for
until next day, and then the colonel forwarded me to my
home in Ogden City, where I recovered after suffering
from a severe cold and cough for a few days.

During my absence the regiment had gone to Echo
Canyon, and there was scarcely an able-bodied man to be
found in the city. The women and children were cutting
and hauling wood, and doing all the outdoor work as best
they could. A great deal of sickness was brought on by
exposure and hardships. At a Sabbath meeting a general
vote of thanks was given the writer for his efforts for the
general good of the people and his self-sacrifice.

About this time there was a very worthy young man
named Yough, who died, and I was called on to take the
part of sexton and bury the deceased, as well as some small
children that had died. Meanwhile, there were four prison-
ers brought in from the north; they were supposed to be
spies. I was called on to be one of the guards to take
them to Salt Lake City, where they were turned over to
the military authorities. Then I returned home, to learn
that the troops my scouts and I had seen on Bear River
were General R. T. Burton's battalion of Utah cavalry,
which had been sent out to intercept a detachment of John-
ston's army which had been discovered in that direction,
but had returned to the main body, which went into winter

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 39 1

-quarters at Fort Bridger. Then the Utah militia was with-
drawn from Echo Canyon.

I was next called to take up my missionary labors in
Weber County. From 1856 to 1859 I baptized and re-
baptized four hundred persons, and visited with the cate-
chism from house to house. In that work I spent the winter
of 1857-8.

CHAPTER LIU.

MORMONS ABANDON THEIR HOMES AND MOVE SOUTH— PREPARE FOR
THE WORST— GO TO PAYSON— AFFAIRS BEING SETTLED, RE l URN
TO OGDEN- CALLED TO GO EAST AS A MISSIONARY— JOURNEY
ACROSS THE PLAINS-MEET MY PARENTS IX IOWA— PREACHING
AND TRAVELING— MY FATHER'S TESTIMONY— MISSION ARY LABORS
—CALLED TO MISSOURI— SENT TO BRING A HERD OF CATTLE-
RETURN TO MY PARENTS' HOME— BID FAREWELL TO THEM—
PURCHASING CATTLE.

SOME time in May, 1858, as I remember, an order
came from President Brigham Young for everybody
living north of Utah County to move south and leave their
homes prepared for burning; for it had been decided that
if Johnston's army came in, as it had threatened to do, with
hostile intentions, the people would lay waste the country
and fight to the bitter end. I do not remember that there
was a dissenting voice from this determination.

Everybody moved out to the south, myself and family
going to Payson, one hundred miles from Ogden. There
we made a camp, and I cut wild hay and hauled it for a
livelihood, that being the only employment I could find.

In the latter part of July, when peace had been re-es-
tablished, I returned home and made hasty preparations
for my family for the winter, as I had been called by Presi-

392 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

dent Brigham Young to accompany General Horace S.
Eldredge to Florence, Nebraska, with a company consist-
ing of twenty men who were going on business and partly
as missionaries. I belonged to the latter class. I went into
the western part of Iowa, being assigned to that field of
labor, while the others went to their several destinations.

The company was to have moved out on the ist of
September, so I. A. Canfield and I, fitted with a four-mule
team and light wagon, were in Salt Lake City ready to
start at the appointed time; but the rest of the party would
not or could not be ready for ten or twelve days, so we re-
turned home and stayed until the nth. We then went to Salt
Lake City and waited until the 14th, and, as the party was
still tardy, we moved out to the top of the Little Mountain,
and there camped. From that place we proceeded to the
Weber River, where we were overtaken by John Neff and
Dusten Arna, who were to join the party when it came up.
As their teams were not in the best of plight for the jour-
ney, we traveled together to Ham's Fork, where we
stopped on the 19th, and waited for those yet in the rear to
come up. About 8 o'clock that evening H. S. Eldredge,
Jos. W. Young and Horton Haight reached our camp.

On the 20th, the company having got together, pro-
ceeded on the way to the Sweetwrater. On the 26th we
reached the Platte River, where I was taken very sick with
hemorrhoids of the bowels. With that exception, all moved
smoothly. On the 28th we passed Fort Laramie, and my
health began to improve, though I had been brought almost
to death's door, and the company was detained one after-
noon in consequence. After that I improved, and the com-
pany made rapid headway. October 3rd two deserters
from Fort Laramie passed the party. They had stolen two
horses and a mule from the government, and, as I remember
it, made good their escape.

Nothing happened out of the ordinary until October

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 393

19th, when the party arrived at Florence, Nebraska, on the
Missouri River. From that point each went to his field of
labor or to his business, as planned beforehand. Canfield
and I crossed the river to L. O. Littlefield's, in Crescent
City, and stayed over night with him and his family, and
on the 20th proceeded on our way to Calhoun, Harrison
County, Iowa, where my father lived with his family. We
were soon overtaken by Clayton Webb and B. H. Dennis,
my brothers-in-law. I accepted a seat in their buggy and
they took me to my father's home.

I had not seen father for eleven years. I was an en-
tire stranger to every one of the family, who kept a hotel.
I went in and ate with strangers, and did not make myself
known until after all the evening work was done. Then,
after I was satisfied that they had not the remotest idea of
my identity, I told them who I was. It was some time be-
fore they could realize that what I said was true. To them it-
seemed that the dead had come to life, and the long lost
had been found, for they had all given up hope of ever see-
ing me again. It was not difficult for me to recognize my
father and mother, but my elder brother and sister were
dead, and the younger ones had all grown out of memory.

When I had visited with them a few days, I preached
several times in the public schoolhouse, and then traveled
and preached. On one occasion I had a walk and talk with
my father alone. We talked of my absence, and he said,
"James, I had given up all hopes of ever seeing your face
again, but thanks be to God I have that privilege. You
always have stood up for the faith and have been a man
through thick and thin for your religion." Then he said,
"Oh that I had the faith that I once had, and felt as I have
felt! I would be a happy man if I had the spirit that you
have, and that I once had." He burst into a flood of tears,
and exclaimed, "Oh, my God, I am in the dark and 1 do
not know that I shall ever feel as I once felt. Then I could

25

394 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

divide the last loaf, yes, the last morsel of food that I had
with a Mormon. Talk about heaven! The true spirit of
Mormonism is heaven. I thank God that you have kept
the faith, though you have had a hard time of it." Then
he added, "James, stick to it and never give it up; for if
there is any salvation for me or any of my family it will be
through you, for you are the Joseph of my family, and I
have known it since before you were born." He then
seemed as humble as a little child, and continued: "James,
be faithful in the work, but as for me or any of my family
going to Utah, I don't think we will ever go."

I told him he could do no better than to go with his
■entire family and renew their covenants, for the good Spirit
was for all who would seek it in the proper way. At last
father said that he did not know what they should do yet,
the weather being wet and cold.

We returned into the house and I stayed with the
family the first month, preaching in the public schoolhouse
every Sabbath. Then my brother Willis and I traveled
around from place to place, and preached everywhere we
found an opportunity, first to Raglan Township, and then
to the northeast, forty miles into Shelby County. We
preached several times in Garden Grove schoolhouse, and
went from there to a small town called Monteno, thence to
Pottawatomie County. We preached to a full hall in Coun-
cil Bluffs City, then went out on Mosquito Creek, in what
was called the Garner settlement. Thus we continued to
travel and preach from place to place and bear our testi-
monies, as health and opportunity permitted.

In January, 1859, ^ preached my cousin Ira Johnson's
funeral sermon; he had been accidentally shot and killed
while out with a surveying party in that region of country.
The same day I baptized six persons and confirmed them;
this was at my father's house, and from that time my father
seemed quite changed in his feelings. He said it was all

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 395

that he could do to keep out of the water, and stated that
he had never felt better in his life than he did on that occa-
sion. Said he, "James, I want you to preach all the time."

On April 7th I received a letter from General Horace
•S. Eldredge, asking me to come down to Platte County,
Missouri, and receive one hundred and seventy-seven head
of work oxen that he had contracted for with Mr. Lampton
and Mr. Thompson, cattle merchants. Having also received
the written contract for the cattle, I started on the 8th, and
on the 9th I took passage on the steamboat Satan, which
,lay at the Council Bluffs landing. I paid ten dollars for
passage to Parkville, Platte County, Missouri. The boat
•called at all important towns and landings. Nothing out of
the ordinary happened except that we were driven under a
high sandbank in a short bend of the river, by a powerful
wind storm, and in trying to extricate the boat, the side-
wheel next the shore threw the water with such force
against the bank as to cause it to cave in onto the boat, so
that the guards and wheelhouse were carried away.

I landed at Parkville on April 13th, stopped overnight,
and on the 14th proceeded eight miles to Mr. Thompson's.
On the 15th I went with him to his partner in the contract,
Mr. Lampton. The men General Eldredge promised in
his letter on the 15th to send to help drive and care for the
•cattle, did not arrive until the 27th, when Eldredge came
with five men. He furnished money to pay the expenses,
and gave instructions, then returned to St. Louis. On the
28th, 29th and 30th, myself and party received and branded
one hundred and seventy-seven head of work oxen and two
valuable mules.

We started for the north on May 1st, traveling through
Rochester, Marysvale, Lindon and Sydney, keeping from
the river and on the high, rolling prairies, through what
was called the Platte purchase in Missouri. We arrived in
Council Bluffs on May 15th, and went from there to Flor-

396 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

ence, Nebraska, where I delivered up the drove of cattle
and span of mules, on the 16th, to Bishop Frederick Kes-
ler, who was General Eldredge's agent. We lost but one
head from among the cattle, although we had an exceed-
ingly stormy and muddy time of it most of the way, having
to swim several streams that had been swollen by the heavy
rains, so that the journey was taken with great hardships,
and danger as well.

I went to my father's home on the 17th, in Calhoun
County, Iowa, settled with my father, who was very kind
to me and my brother Willis, helping us to two yoke of oxen
to cross the plains with. We bade farewell to the parental
home and to the family on the 27th. Father accompanied
us to Council Bluffs and paid our expenses until the 30th.
when we parted with him. We crossed the river at Omaha,
and moved up to Florence, where we went into a camp or
rendezvous and waited for others to come to make a com-
pany strong enough to cross the plains.

The company had its camp some three miles north-
west of Florence, where General Eldredge, the Church
agent, and Elder George Q. Cannon, agent for the Euro-
pean emigration, both called on me to go out into Nebraska
and also to cross into Iowa and purchase work cattle for
them. Each furnished me with five hundred dollars in gold
then, and as it was the time that hundreds of gold hunters
were returning from Pike's Peak, I had great success in
my purchases, spending a thousand dollars some days in
the purchase of cattle, buying whole teams as they stood
on the road, sometimes wagons, equipage and provisions.
I would hire a trusty man to drive them up to Florence,
and then I would replenish. my pockets and go on again.
For ten days I traveled early and late, and did thousands
of dollars' worth of business for the Church and emigration.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 29*1

CHAPTER LIV.

GIVEN CHARGE OF A COMPANY TO CROSS THE PLAINS TO UTAH-
COMPOSITION OF THE CAMP — START WEST — PERFORM BAP-
TISMS— MEET A WAR PARTY OF SIOUX INDIANS— PLACE WHERE
A. W. HAPBITT WAS KILLED — MEET MORE INDIANS — HOW
TROUBLE WAS AVOIDED— CAMP LIFE AND DUTIES— ENTER SALT
LAKE VALLEY— COMPANY GREETED BY THE CHURCH AUTHOR-
ITIES-REPORT TO PRESIDENT YOUNG AND AM RELEASED—
TRADE AT CAMP FLOYD — EXPERIENCE WITH A THIEF — GO
TO WORK ON THE OGDEN CANYON ROAD — HARDSHIPS EN-
DURED.

ON Sunday, June 12th, Elders Eldredge and Cannon
visited the camp and held meeting, then organized
the company, naming James S. Brown for president and
captain, the selection being unanimously sustained. George
L. Farrell was made sergeant of the guard, William Wright
chaplain, and John Gordon secretary. A captain was ap-
pointed over each ten wagons, namely: first, Wm. Steel;
second, W. -Williams; third, Christopher Funk; fourth,
Newbury; fifth, Kent; sixth, Giddens. These names were
suggested by Messrs. Eldredge and Cannon, and were
unanimously sustained by the company of three hundred
and fifty-three souls. The outfit consisted of fifty-nine
wagons and one hundred and four yoke of oxen, eleven
horses, thirty-five cows, and forty-one head of young cat-
tle that were driven loose. We had provisions for seventy-
five days.

On June 13th, 1859, l^e company set out for Salt Lake
City, Utah. There were nine different nationalities of
people represented, namely: English, Irish, Scotch, Welsh,
Danish, Swedish, Norwegians and Icelanders; we also
had some Americans from the Eastern, Middle and South-

398 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

era States, all mixed together. Many of them had never
driven an ox one mile in their lives, and the result was-
almost like herding a train on the plains. If it had
not been for G. L. Farrell, James Hickson, Samuel
Garnet and Willis Brown, all excellent ox teamsters, besides
some five or six others that were quite handy, we would
doubtless have had most destructive stampedes. As it was,,
the company did not have any serious mishaps. In a few
days the train became regulated and we had more system
and order in travel. For the first five or six days of the
journey the stock seemed in danger of being destroyed by
flies and mosquitoes, and the people suffered much from
the same cause. On the 18th we passed Captain Rowley
with the handcart company.

On June 19th the camp stopped on the Loup Fork, a
tributary of the Platte River. There was a small town there
called Columbus. On the 20th the company moved up the
river and camped on a small stream, Looking Glass Creek,
That afternoon I baptized and rebaptized eighty souls, and
other Elders confirmed them, while some men of the com-
pany bridged the stream. On the 21st we proceeded to
Genoa Ferry, where we were joined by Captain Walding's
company of thirty-seven souls and ten more wagons, thus
increasing my company to three hundred and ninety persons
and sixty-nine wagons, with cattle and other property in
proportion. At that place we chartered the ferry boat from
J. Johnston and did the work ourselves. We paid seventy-
five cents a wagon, and it took fifteen hours' hard labor to
cross. The stock all swam safely over, and the company
camped on the west bank. The handcart company came
up that night about 10 o'clock. On the 23rd our company
proceeded up the river.

We met with a company of Sioux Indians on the 24th.
These formed a line of battle across the road ahead of the
company, and sent two men to meet as. I was traveling

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 399

in advance of the company, and although I had never been
among the Sioux Indians in my life for an hour, nor had I
ever been where I had an opportunity to study their lan-
guage, I had not the slightest difficulty in talking to them,
or they to me. Consequently I learned at once that these
Indians were on the war path, and were hunting the Omahas
and Poncas. They were hungry and said they must have
food from the company; so they were told to form a line
parallel with the road, and to keep one-fourth of a mile back,
so as not to stampede the train or frighten the women and
children. They were allowed to send two men on foot to
spread blankets where the company could put such food as
we had to share.

Meanwhile I gave orders to the sergeant of the guard,
G. L. Farrell, and the several captains to draw up in close
order, have every teamster in his place, and all the women
and children in the wagons, and for each man to have his
gun where he could lay his hand on it without a moment's
delay. Each family was to place some food on the blankets
by the roadside. Not one team was to stop without orders.
The wagons were to be corralled as quickly as possible, if
they must be, at the first signal from the captain to do so;
for the Indians appeared very warlike in their paint and
feathers.

When the red men learned that it was a company of
Mormons they had met, they readily complied with the
captain's terms, and a number rode up and shook hands
with him. As the company passed their lines of not more than
one hundred and fifty warriors, there came fourteen buffalo
in sight, quite close, and attention was turned to them so
much that the Indians took what the company had placed
on their blankets and we passed on without further inter-
ruption.

It was about this date that the teamsters had become
acquainted with their teams and the latter acquainted with

400 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

their drivers, so that things began to work more orderly
than before. The camp was called together every evening
for prayers, and for instructions for the next day.

About the 26th the company started across from the
Loup Fork to Wood River. That night the stock took
fright and gave some trouble before they were recovered;
but the next morning the company resumed its journey,
leaving Wood Birdno to pursue two valuable young fillies,
one his own and the other belonging to Captain Brown.
Mr. Birdno did not overtake the company till the fifth day.

One evening the company camped on a tributary of the
Platte River, where AlmonW. Babbitt was killed by the Sioux
Indians some eighteen months or two years before. The
company crossed the stream and camped just opposite
where that terrible tragedy occurred, and just as the cattle
were being unyoked the Sioux Indinas flocked into camp,
all well-armed warriors. I saw that it was quite possible
that they meant mischief, as there were no Indian families
in sight; so I called to the company to continue their camp
duties as if nothing unusual had happened, but for every
man to see to his firearms quietly and be ready to use them
if an emergency should arise. Then I turned to the chief,
and it being again given to me to talk and understand the
Indians, I asked what their visit meant, if it was peace that
they go with me to the middle of the corral of wagons and
smoke the pipe of peace and have a friendly talk, as myself
and people were Mormons and friends to the Indians, and
that I wished them to be good friends to me and my people.

The chief readily responded, and called his peace coun-
cil of smokers to the center of the corral, where they seated
themselves in a circle. I took a seat to the right hand of the
chief and then the smoking and talking commenced. The
chief assured me that their visit was a friendly one, and to
trade with the emigrants. I inquired of him why, if their visit
meant peace, they all came so well armed. He answered

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 4OI

that his people had just pitched camp a short distance back
in the hills, and not knowing who we were had come down
before laying down their arms.

By this time it seemed that there were about three
Indians to one white person in the camp. I told the chief
that it was getting too late to trade, my people were all busy
in camp duties, and I was going to send our stock to where
there was good feed for them. It was my custom, I said,
to send armed men to watch over them, and the guards
always had orders to shoot any wild beast that might dis-
turb them, and if anybody were to come among the stock
in the night, we thought them to be thieves and our enemies.
If they attempted to drive off our stock, the guards had
orders to shoot, and our camp guards also were ordered to
shoot any thief that might come prowling around camp at
night. I said that, as we did not desire to do the Indians
any harm, we wished the chief and his men to go to their
camp, as it was now too late to trade. But in the morning,
when the sun shone on our wagon covers, not when it
shone on the mountain tops in the west, but when it shone
on our tents and wagon covers, they could leave their arms
behind and come down with their robes, pelts and furs, and
we would trade with them as friends; but he was not to
allow any of his men to visit our camp or stock at night.

The chief said that was heap good talk, and ordered
his people to return to their own camp. They promptly
obeyed, to the great relief of the company, which had been
very nervous, as scarcely one of them except myself had
ever witnessed such a sight before.

Next morning, between daylight and sunrise, tne In-
dians appeared on the brow of the hill northeast of camp.
There seemed to be hundreds of them formed in a long line
and making a very formidable array. Just as the sunlight
shone on the tents and wagon covers they made a descent
on us that sent a thrill through every heart in camp, until

4-02

LIFE OF A PIONEER.

it was seen that they had left their weapons of war behind,
and had brought only articles of trade. They came into the
center of the corral, the people gathered with what they had
to trade, and for a while a great bargaining was carried on.
For once I had more than I could do in assisting them to
understand each other, and see that there was no disturb-
ance or wrong done in the great zeal of both parties.

The trading was over without any trouble, there was
a hearty shaking of hands, and the company resumed its-
journey up the river, passing and being repassed by numer-
ous companies moving west to Pike's Peak and to Utah,.
California, or Oregon. There were gold seekers, freight-
ers, and a host of families of emigrants; and as the com-
pany advanced to the west we met many people going to
the east. They were traveling all ways, with ox, horse
and mule teams, as well as by pack trains of horses and
mules; while some were floating down the Platte River in
small row boats.

I have omitted many dates, but feel that I must say that
some time in July we came up with Captain Horton Haight,.
who started two weeks ahead of us, with a Church train of
seventy-five wagons of freight. Both trains passed Fort
Laramie that' same day. Mine camped seven miles above
the fort on the river, where we laid over the next day, and
had our wagons unloaded and thoroughly cleaned from the
dust and dirt; then they were reloaded so as to balance
their loading anew. All sick cattle were doctored, while
the female portion of camp washed and did considerable
baking. The next day we proceeded on to the Black Hills,
in good spirits, the people generally well and encouraged.
The road then began to be rough and gravelly, so that the
cattle began to get sore-footed, and that changed the tone
of feelings of some of the people.

We went on in peace over hills and dales to the Sweet-
water, thence up that stream to what was called the last

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 403:

crossing, where we stopped one day, and again overhauled
our load, doctored sick cattle, baked, etc. From there we
crossed the summit of the great Rocky Mountains to Pacific
Springs, so called because their waters flow down the
Pacific slope. From that point we traveled over very sandy
plains and saleratus deserts, to the Little Sandy, then to
what was called the Big Sandy, and thence to Green River,
the last hundred miles being the most soul-trying of the
whole journey, owing to being sandy and poisonous to the
stock. We traveled day and night, all that the cattle could
endure, and in fact more than many of the people did en-
dure without much complaint and fault-finding.

After a day's rest on the Green River, however, and
being told that there was no more such country to cross, the
train entered on the last one hundred and fifty miles of the
journey, crossing over to Ham's Fork, then to Fort Bridger
on Black's Fork, and on to the two Muddys and to Quak-
ing Asp Ridge, the highest point crossed by the emigrant
road. From there we went down into Echo Canyon, then
to Weber River, crossed it and over the foothills to East
Canyon Creek and to the foot of the Big Mountain, where
we met Apostles John Taylor and F. D. Richards. A halt
was called to listen to the hearty welcome and words of
cheer from the Apostles. Then the company passed over
the Big Mountain to the foot of the Little Mountain, where
we camped. Many of the people were sick from eating
chokecherries and wild berries found along the roadside.

Next day we proceeded to the top of Little Mountain.
When I saw the last wagon on the summit, I left the ser-
geant, G. L. Farrell, in charge, and went ahead to report the
approach of my company and their condition, as there were
one hundred or more without food for their supper. I
called first on General H. S.Eldredge, and took dinner with
him. He received me very kindly, and accompanied me to
President Brigham Young's office. The President wel-

4O4 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

corned us as cordially as a father could. After he had in-
quired and was told the condition of the company, he sent
word to Bishop Edward Hunter to have the tithing yard
cleared for the cattle, to have cooked food for all who needed
it, and to have the company camp in Union Square.

When steps had been taken to carry out these orders,
I called at my father-in-law's in the Fourteenth Ward, where
1 learned that my family were well. Then I went back, met
the company on the bench east of the city, and conducted it
down to the square, where we found Bishop Hunter and a
number of other Bishops and people of the several wards,
with an abundance of cooked food for supper and breakfast
for the whole company. Several of the Twelve Apostles
were on the ground to bid the company a hearty welcome,
and delivered short addresses of good cheer. This was
August 29, 1859.

Next morning, the 30th, Orson Hyde, Orson Pratt,
Wilford Woodruff, Ezra T. Benson, Charles C. Rich and
Erastus Snow of the Twelve Apostles, Bishop Hunter and
other prominent officers of the Church, came to the camp,
called the people together, and again bade the Saints wel-
come to our mountain home. They advised the people
where to go, and what to do to support themselves for the
winter.

It was while yet on the Union Square that Apostle
Charles C. Rich told me that he and others had been called
to take a mission to England, leaving home in the spring,
and that they would like me to go with them; he thought I
had better shape my affairs so that I would be ready for the
call.

During the day the people found shelter and friends,
and I reported to the Deseret News office and to President
Young, who told me I was honorably released from any
further responsibility for the company.

On our journey across the plains we had two deaths in

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 405

the company, and five births, and had lost twenty-five head
of cattle — a very small percentage compared with losses in
general.

After the interview with President Young, I followed
up my brother Willis, who had gone ahead with our team.
We stopped that night at Charles C. Rich's, twelve miles
north of Salt Lake City, and on September ist reached my
home in Ogden City, where we found all well and pleased
to meet us again.

At Ogden many friends and relatives called to see us.
In a day or two after our arrival, we went to cutting bul-
rushes along the slough on the bottom lands, with a scythe,
that being the only chance for us to winter our stock. In
a short time we purchased a wagon load of butter and eggs,
and took it to Camp Floyd, forty miles southwest of Salt
Lake City. We made a good profit on that load, then
made a second trip and had stolen from us one of our mules
worth one hundred and fifty dollars.

As we could not get a trace of the mule, Willis re-
turned to the city to get another animal, so we could move
our wagon. About 12 o'clock one night, while he was
gone and I was sleeping alone in the wagon, the moon
shining bright and clear, a thief cut the hind end of the
wagon cover open, and drew out one of the quilts. As he
was taking the second 1 awoke and caught him in the act.
I asked what he was doing there, and was told it was none
of my business, but to get out of his wagon, or he would
send an officer after me. At the same time he put his hand
on an old fashioned United States holster pistol that he had
in his belt, then staggered off, feigning drunkenness. I saw
that he went into a corner where he could not pass out, so
I hastened and called the landlord, Mr. Kinney, a man
about sixty years old, and told him what had happened.
Said he, "If he went in there he cannot get through that
way." He peeped into a dark corner, where the buildings

.406 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

were so close that a man could not squeeze through. "Here
he is; come out, you thief," said he, and the midnight ma-
rauder made a break to pass. The old gentleman struck
at him as he went by, and the next instant I had him by the
throat. By that time the thief had got his pistol disen-
gaged from his belt, but before he could turn it towards me
I caught it from his grasp, threw him heavily on the
ground, and held him there till Mr. Kinney brought an
officer.

Meanwhile we were surrounded by half a dozen gam-
blers, one of whom said to the thief, "What are you doing
down there, Rainbow?" A second ordered him to get up.
They all seemed to know him, but all were strangers to
me. I had passed the pistol to the old landlady, who
brought it out, offered it to the officers, and told them she
saw the thief try to shoot me when I snatched it and passed
it to her. At that the thief swore the weapon was not his,
but mine, and that I had drawn it to shoot him. Then the
officers told me to keep the pistol, and they let the thief go
to a saloon in a gambling house, where he treated the
crowd, and told them that he had an engagement for a
woman to meet him there that night, but he found a man
instead, and that was all there was of it. At that the
officers liberated him, and I concluded that I had got into a
den of thieves, so disposed of my load and left for home as
soon as I could. All the profit that we had made in the
first trip was lost in the second, for we never recovered the
mule.

The weather being cold, we threw up that business
and took a contract amounting to two hundred and fifty
dollars on the Ogden Canyon road, and in the bitter cold
weather of winter worked till the job was completed. That
work finished, we took another contract to get out timber
ior the first county jail in Webar County, andcDi tinued to
work in the canyon until April 1st. The winter had been

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 407

so long and severe that we sold part of our wearing apparel
and bed clothes for hay 10 keep life in our animals.

CHAPTER LV.

CALLED ON A MISSION TO GEE AT BRITAIN— PREPARE TO DEPART—
START WITHOUT PURSE OR SCRIP-JOURNEY TO SALT LAKE CITY
—SET APART FOR THE MISSION— BEGIN THE JOURNEY EASTWARD
—ORGANIZATION OF THE COMPANY— MY POST AS CHAPLAIN-
OVERTAKEN BY APOSTLES A. M. LYMAN AND C. C. RICH— TRAVEL-
ING THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS— SNOWSTORMS AND WIND— FOR-
AGE IS SCARCE— MEETINGS WITH THE INDIANS— CAPTAIN REY-
NOLDS' EXPLORING PARTY— ARMY DESERTERS IX OUR CAMP-
MAIL FROM HOME— EMIGRANTS WESTWARD BOUND— DISSATISFAC-
TION IN CAMP— FEELING ABOUT APOSTLES LYMAN AND RICH— I
RESIGN AS CAPTAIN, BUT AM ELECTED AGAIN, AND FINALLY RE-
SUME COMMAND— MAIL ROBBERY— MORE DISAGREEABLE STORMS
—MEET A HANDCART COMPANY, AND APOSTLE GEORGE Q. CAN-
NON—REACH THE MISSOURI RIVER— VISIT MY FATHER AND HIS
FAMILY-GO TO ST. JOSEPH, MISSOURI— MY FIRST VIEW OF A
'RAILWAY TRAIN— AT MY OLD HOME IN BROWN COUNTY, ILLINOIS
—JOURNEY EASTWARD BY RAIL— ARRIVE IN NEW YORK FOR THE
FIRST TIME— FIND FRIENDS.

s

"^ OME time in February of this year (i860), I received
a letter from President Brigham Young, informing
me that I had been selected to accompany Apostles Amasa
M. Lyman and Charles C. Rich on a mission to Great
Britain, starting in April. The letter authorized me to call
on Bishop Chauncey W. West, to have my city and five-
acre lots fenced and cultivated by labor tithing, for the
benefit of my family; also for the Bishop to furnish my
family, from time to time, with such necessary articles as
they needed and could not otherwise obtain. I called on
the Bishop as authorized, and showed him the letter, but
the work he was called on for never was done, and my
family suffered in .consequence.

408 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

I settled my business and prepared for the mission, and
in April attended conference in Salt Lake City, where my
name was presented and sustained with those of many
others called to perform missions. On the 19th of April, I
blessed my family and bade farewell to them till I should
be released from the duty which now rested upon me of
preaching the Gospel among the inhabitants of the British
Isles. I had a ham and a few articles of food, a light
change of clothing, and my rifle. These I put in the wagon
of H. Hanson, who was starting to Salt Lake City, on his
way to till a mission in Denmark. Then, with my shot-
pouch and a new pair of boots across my shoulder, I
began my journey from Ogden, intending to hunt up a
yoke of cattle I had on the range, and drive them to Salt
Lake City. Not a dollar of money did I have — I was
entirely without purse or scrip. I found my cattle, drove
them to Salt Lake City, turned them over to my father-in-
law, Nathan Tanner, to pay a debt I was owing and to ob-
tain some flour for food on my journey, and I was ready on
April 20th, the date appointed, to leave on my mission.
But some of the others were not ready, and the departure
was postponed to April 25th.

On the last named date, we gathered at the Church
historian's office in Salt Lake City, to be set apart and re-
ceive instructions for our missions. President Brigham
Young there gave us counsel never to be forgotten, and
our hearts rejoiced therein. Each of us received a certifi-
cate of our missionary appointment, signed by the First
Presidency, Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, and
Daniel H. Wells. We were then instructed to meet next
day, the 26th, at the mouth of Parley's Canyon, and to pro-
ceed therefrom under command of Joseph W. Young, our
baggage being hauled by teams owned by the Church that
were going to Florence, Nebraska.

President Young had designated me to take charge of

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 4O9

one of the teams, with permission to leave it when Apostles
Lyman and Rich overtook us, which they expected to do
in three or four days. ' Thus I had in my care four yoke of
oxen and a large government wagon; and, in company
with several others, went to President Young's mill south
of the city. We took on from a thousand to twelve hun-
dred pounds of flour to each wagon, and proceeded to the
place of rendezvous, where there were gathered thirty
wagons, with about forty missionaries and the Beebe and
Buzzard families, who were going back to their farms in
Iowa.

On April 17th, Presidents Young and Wells came out
and organized the company, appointing Joseph W. Young
as captain, and John Woolley as sergeant of the guard.
Myself and two others were selected as chaplains. The
company was instructed as to necessary duties in crossing
the plains, and we started. Our route was up Parley's
Canyon, then down Silver Creek to the Weber River,
thence up to the mouth of Chalk Creek. At the Spriggs
coal pit a number of us visited the mine, the tunnels of
which went straight into the mountain side. Then we pro-
ceeded across to Bear River, and followed along the Big
Muddy. The Beebe and Buzzard families and E. D.
Woolley and company continued on by way of Fort
Bridger, while the rest of us made a road across the bend
of the Muddy.

Apostles A. M. Lyman and C. C. Rich overtook us
on May 4th, and we all camped together that night.
Walter M. (Jibson and I were transferred to Samuel
White's wagon, and on the 5th we bade farewell to Joseph
W. Young's company, taking an early leave of them, and
proceeded to Ham's Fork, on which we camped for the
night. There I was made captain of the company, with
John Tobin as sergeant of the guard, and W. H. Dame as

26

4IO LIFE OF A PIONEER.

chaplain. Guards were placed out to take care of the stock.
That night there was quite a snowstorm.

Next morning, the weather was cold and disagreeable.
We made our way to Green River, where we met some
people who had apostatized from the Church, and were
going back to St. Louis; we also met some Shoshone In-
dians who were friendly. We camped on the Big Sandy
that night, and had quite a hunt for our animals, which
strayed off because there was so little grass. But we re-
covered all of them.

On May ioth we came to Pacific Springs, where we
met Buzzard, Beebe, Woolley and company, and received
them into our company without any change in organization.
That day we crossed over the South Pass and the Sweet-
water River, and camped on Willow Creek. Next day we
went through a number of snowdrifts, passed over the
Rocky Ridge and to the Sweetwater, following along the
river. That night we met a party of Shoshone Indians re-
turning from a fight with the Crow Indians. The follow-
ing morning, the 12th, we missed part of our animals, and
were detained till n o'clock securing them again. We then
moved forward on our journey, and on the 13th, at the
second crossing of the Sweetwater, encountered a severe
snowstorm.

From then till the 18th the wind was very high, and
the weather disagreeable. Grass was ver}' scarce. On
the 14th we met a band of Arapahoe Indians on a buffalo
hunt, and on the 15th met Captain Reynolds with a party
of explorers. We afterwards heard that the entire party
were killed by Blackfeet Indians, on the headwaters of the
Missouri River. On the 18th, as we were traveling down
the Platte River, Sergeant Min, with a small party of
soldiers from Fort Laramie, searched the wagons in our
company for three deserters from Camp Floyd. There
were two of them in our camp. They had come to us in

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 4II

Parley's Canyon, saying they had been discharged. One
of them, George Kelly, showed his discharge papers, but
he had re-enlisted, and deserted after receiving his bounty.
The other was a servant who had stolen a gold watch. His
name was Alexander Demster. Both were taken to Fort
Laramie.

On May 20th we arrived within seven miles of Fort
Laramie, where we rested our animals and attended to nec-
essary work for proceeding farther. We also built a raft
and went across to the fort for our mail, getting a few
letters. There was none for me. We wrote to our families,
and on the 22nd again moved forward. This time we had
two other discharged soldiers with us; one of them had a
wife and child. I had changed from Samuel White's
wagon to D. Savage's, and drove his six-mule team most
of the way. From the 23rd on we met many people bound
for California, Oregon, or the Pike's Peak gold mines.

We passed Chimney Rock on May 25th, and rested
that evening at a fair camping ground. There had been
some dissatisfaction on the part of owners of teams because
the grass had been short and the animals were not doing
well. Fault was found with the camping places, and as
Apostles Lyman and Rich, often had been consulted and
had suggested the location for camp, these prominent mem-
bers of our company felt that if there were any blame in
making the choice it belonged to them. So the Apostles
asked forgiveness for what they had done, and promised
they would have no more to do with directing the journey-
ings of the company. When I found that I was deprived of
the counsel of such men, I resigned my office as captain.
John Tobin also resigned as sergeant of the guard. That
night was passed with the camp in a disorganized state, and
next morning there was no one to lead out with orders to
proceed. The team owners and others found themselves
well puzzled, and began to realize the mistake that had been

412 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

made. By advice of Apostle C. C. Rich, I called the com-
pany together, but none knew what to do. Finally, Elder
Rich suggested that they elect as captain someone they
would not find so much fault with. The vote was for me,
and at the request of Elder Rich I again assumed command,
and we moved on. John Brown was selected as sergeant of
the guard.

At Ash Hollow we learned that the St. Joseph and
Great Salt Lake mail coach had been robbed on Grease-
wood Creek, by Shoshone Indians, and that the mail car-
riers had been killed. We were detained at Ash Hollow
several hours on the 27th, by the severe illness of A. Beebe's
wife. For several days thereafter there were high winds,
and showers, making the roads very disagreeable, so that it
took us till May 31st to reach Buffalo Creek, where we
saw some buffalo. The next night we camped ten miles
above Fort Kearney. On June 2nd we called at Dr. Henry's
ranch for dinner, and seven miles further on reached the
place where Joseph E. Johnson and his brother had located,
and were publishing a paper called the Mountain Echo. At
this point Nephi Johnson and Daniel Babbitt left us, as they
had reached the end of their journey. We continued on
four miles further, and camped.

Proceeding on our journey, we reached and crossed the
Elkhorn River on June 6th, and that night met and camped
with a company of Latter-day Saints crossing the plains
with handcarts. The company was in good spirits, and glad
to see us, and we spent the evening in singing the songs of
Zion. Just as we had gone to bed, Apostle George Q. Can-
non, who had charge of the Church emigration that year,
came up, in company with Horton Haight and others, and
we were glad to arise and shake hands with him. He was a
particular friend and brother with whom several of us had
traveled many miles and spent many pleasant hours. After
a long talk Elder Cannon turned in with me for sleep.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 413

On the morning of June 7tn> the members of the hand-
cart company were called together, and Apostles Lyman
and Rich gave them some good instructions. Then we
bade them good-bye, and proceeded to Florence, where we
met many warm-hearted Saints from Europe. On the 8th,
I procured a span of mules from Horton Haight, and a car
riage from George Q. Cannon, and accompanied by J. C.
Rich, crossed the Missouri River to Calhoun, Harrison
County, Iowa, where we met with my father and his family.
They were well, and greatly pleased to see me. We visited
with my relatives till the nth, when J. C. Rich and I parted
at Crescent City, while I returned to Florence, where my
father visited me on the 12th, and invited Apostles Lyman
and Rich and myself to take dinner at the finest hotel in
the town, which we did. My father promised me there that
if he lived and was able to sell his property, he would ac-
company me to Utah when I returned from my mission.

On June 15th, I went to Omaha in company with J. C.
Rich, F. M. Lyman, and R. McBride, where we were
joined next day by A. M. Lyman, C. C. Rich, G. Q. Can-
non, and John Tobin. We took passage on the steamboat
Omaha for St. Joseph, Missouri, where we landed on the
morning of the 18th. That day while strolling through the
city with Francis M. Lyman, I first saw a locomotive and
railway train in motion. It was to us a grand sight, and we
viewed it with admiration and satisfaction. At 6 a. m., on
the 19th, we boarded the train, C. C. Rich, J. C. Rich and
John Tobin going to St Louis, and the rest of us to Quincy,
Illinois, where I left the party and went to Versailles, Brown
County. There I received a hearty welcome from rela-
tives and friends.

I remained in that locality five days, until the 24th,
visiting uncles, brother-in-law, cousins, and other relatives,
and also the farm on which I was reared. At Versailles,
on the evening of the 21st, I lectured, by request, on my

414 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

travels and experiences. The schoolroom being too small
to accommodate the people, the Methodist church was pro-
cured, and was well filled, many of the audience being my
old schoolmates. They were glad to meet me, as I was to
meet them.

I stayed that night with Joseph F. Vandeventer, and
next day, in company with him and his brother Thomas,
visited my father's old farm, then owned by William Knox.
There were many changes about the place. The cemetery
was fenced into a pasture, and I was unable to find my
brother's grave. The fruit trees in the orchard were well
grown, and I was given some good apples and the best cider
I ever tasted, made from fruit from trees I had set out with
my own hands.

That day's walk brought to my recollection my youth-
ful days, my hunts through the woods and my adventures,
my toilsome labors in grubbing underbrush and clearing
the land, threshing wheat in the hot, autumn sun, feeding
stock in the cold winter, my cold fingers, benumbed body,
and frozen toes — once shedding my toenails through frost,
and peeling the skin off my feet — in short, I was reminded
of much toil on the part of my parents, brothers and sisters
and myself, and of many days of sickness with fever and
ague. We returned to Versailles, and next evening, the
23rd, after more visiting, I consented to preach, and was
given good attention by a large congregation. On the 24th,
I went down to the river landing at the mouth of Crooked
Creek, with my uncle and Joseph F. Vandeventer, but
learning that the boats were uncertain, I resolved to go to
Meridotia and there take train for New York, in order to
meet Elder C. C. Rich. To do this, it was necessary for
me to borrow twenty dollars, which I did of Mr. Vande-
venter. At 9 o'clock that evening I was on my way, on
the Quincy and Toledo line, passing through the great
Wabash valley. After several changes of cars, and cross-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 415

ing North River on a ferry boat, I landed in New York
City on June 26th, without knowing a soul that lived there.
I walked up to Broadway, and took a Sixth Avenue
omnibus to Twenty-third Street, where I found the resi-
dence of Brother Jonas Croxall, and introduced myself to
his wife, as he was not at home. I had eaten but two
meals since I got into the cars at Meridotia, and they cost
me seventy-five cents. I had ridden over one thousand
miles on the cars from Illinois, and had ninety-five cents
when I reached the end of the journey. My supper that
night was provided at Brother Croxall's. About 11 o'clock
in the evening Brothers Croxall and A. M. Lyman came in,
they having been on a visit together at Brother Schettler's.

CHAPTER LVI.

VISIT VARIOUS PLACES OF INTEREST IN NEW YORK AND VICINITY-
ARRIVAL OF THE GREAT EASTERN— PREACH AT WILLIAMSBURG—
NEW YORK'S CELEBRATION OF THE FOURTH— MY THIRTY- SECOND
BIRTHDAY— SECURE PASSPORTS AND OCEAN PASSAGE— CROWDED
IN THE STEERAGE— FOGGY AND WET WEATHER— VIEW OF THE
IRISH COAST— FLEET OF BRITISH WARSHIPS— LAND IN LIVERPOOL
-ASSIGNED TO BIRMINGHAM CONFERENCE— IN BIRMINGHAM-
LISTEN TO AN ANTI-MORMON LECTURE— VISITING FROM HOUSE TO
HOUSE AS A MORMON MISSIONARY— PLACES OF INTEREST— TRANS-
FERRED TO NOTTINGHAM CONFERENCE— PREACHING AND VISIT-
ING—MISSION TRAVELS— GO TO LONDON-SEE NOTABLE PLACES—
NEWS OF MY DAUGHTER'S DEATH— BIRTH OF ANOTHER
DAUGHTER— RETURN TO NOTTINGHAM.

THE 27th of June was spent with Apostle A. M. Lyman
and J. Croxall, walking about the city of New York.
That day F. M. Lyman and Reuben McBride arrived, and next
day Apostle Lyman and his son Francis M. left for Boston.
With Reuben McBride, I visited the various departments

416 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

of the place where J. Croxall and his son worked. We
then crossed East River with Thomas Miller, and strolled
through Williamsburg. We were introduced to a Brother
Stone and family, with whom we stayed all night. On the
29th we were made acquainted with many Latter-day Saints
in Williamsburg, then crossed over to Brooklyn, where we
went through the navy yard and other places; at the first
named place we went on board the old ship of war North
Carolina. That day we heard the salutes fired for the
Great Eastern, as she steamed up the wharf in New York
The ocean monster was hailed with joy and enthusiasm.
She had been sighted at sea the evening before.

In New York City, on the 30th, we visited Barnum's
museum, Castle Garden, the postoffice, and had a view of
the Great Eastern. I received a letter from my family re-
porting all well. The 1st of July was Sunday, and we met
with the Latter-day Saints in Williamsburg. The speakers
at the meetings that day were Apostle C. C. Rich, Elder
Walter Gibson and myself. I crossed over to New York
that night, and the remainder of our stay in the city was
the guest of Bernard A. Schettler, who treated me very
kindly. During the next few days we visited many factories,
ships and places of interest, and wrote letters home. On
the 4th, which was my thirty-second birthday anniversary,
there was a grand celebration. The militia of New York
City paraded, passing the George Washington monument
in review. There was a grand fireworks display in the
evening; and in the afternoon we witnessed the aeronaut,
Mr. Wise, ascend out of sight with a balloon. On the 9th
we sent to Washington for our passports. W. H. Dame
and I were appointed on the 12th to take the money of our
party, secure berths on the steamship Edinburgh, of the
Blackball line between New York and Liverpool, and to
purchase articles necessary for the journey across the
Atlantic Ocean. We attended to this duty on the 13th.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 417

July 14th, our party, thirteen in number, went on board,
and at 12 o'clock noon, the vessel left the landing. We
paid twenty-five dollars each for steerage passage. There
were nearly three hundred passengers, and the berths were
all taken up, so our lot was rather hard. Being very much
crowded for room as well, it was plain that our part of the
voyage was not to be very pleasant; but we were on board
and had to make the best of it.

By the 18th we were off the banks of Newfoundland,
in a dense, damp fog, that obscured the sun and made it
impossible to see more than a few rods from the ship. The
steam siren kept up a constant whistling, to warn other
vessels of our location and approach. The fog lasted till
the 23rd, when it lighted up, but the weather was cloudy,
with some rain. On the 24th a vessel bore in sight.

Next day we had headwinds, and the sun shone for a
short time. We came in sight of the southwest coast of
Ireland, and at the cry of "Land!" every countenance
brightened. All were on deck to catch a glimpse of the
welcome scene. As this proceeding was going on, we
heard the cry, "Sail ho!" and in a short time there came
into full view a fleet of her majesty Queen Victoria's war-
ships, eleven in number. They were steaming along the
coast to the south and in advance of us. Suddenly they
changed their course and came to meet us. When they
drew near, their signal flags -were hoisted on the masts,
making a beautiful and imposing appearance.

That night at 11 o'clock we ran into Queenstown. the
harbor of Cork, Ireland. There some passengers for Ire-
land, and mail were taken off, and we headed for the coast of
England, coming in sight of Wales the next day.

Early on the morning of the 27th we were on the
muddy, dark waters of the Mersey, and soon landed in
Liverpool, where the dank, smoky, mildewed walls looked
to us as if they had stood for a thousand years. To our

418 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

eyes the city had a very dismal and forbidding appear-
ance.

After the usual custom house inspection, we sent our
baggage to the Latter-day Saints' office at 42 Islington,,
and walked there ourselves, a distance of a mile and a half.
At the office we met Elder N. V. Jones and others, who-
received us very kindly. The following day we were
appointed to our various missionary fields, J. C. Rich and I
being assigned to Birmingham pastorate. That afternoon'
Elder Rich and I paid a visit to Birkenhead, across the
river Mersey, and met with some of the Saints.

Sunday, July 29th, we all attended meeting with
the Liverpool Saints, in their assembly room on Great
George's Street. Next day, Elder Rich and I took train
for Birmingham, passing through a tunnel a mile and a half
long on the route. Arriving at New Street station, Bir-
mingham, we hailed a cab and were taken to No. 163 Bur-
ton Place, Spring Hill. There we had expected to find
Elder Charles W. Penrose, but he was not at home. His-
sister-in-law met us, and seemed surprised at our call. I
told her who we were, and we received a rather mistrustful
invitation to come in; but after questioning us some she
became satisfied of our identity, and provided us with some-*
thing to eat.

Later, F. G. Blake, who was traveling Elder in that
place, came in, and we took a walk with him, meeting
Elder Penrose. We all went to West Bromwich that even-
ing, and heard one Mr. Bird, an old apostate from Utah,,
lecture against the Mormons. He was doing this for
money, and the large hall was full of people. He made
many false accusations against the Latter-day Saints, which
were loudly applauded by his ignorant hearers. After the
lecture we returned to Birmingham, and stayed all night at.
Elder Penrose's.

To us, Birmingham seemed as dark, smokey and mil-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 4IQ

dewed as did Liverpool; but it was well located. The
place was one of the busiest manufacturing centers of the
world. The railway lines passing through do not obstruct
or occupy the streets; on one of the roads, which is built
On a series of arches, the cars run level with the chimneys
on three-story houses; and other roads pass beneath the
city, running under large houses. The New Street station
was one of the best and most commodious I have ever
seen; indeed it is now one of the largest in the world, oc-
cupying eleven acres, with a fine iron and glass roof eleven
hundred feet long.

After visiting from house to house with the Saints on
August 1st, we preached that evening in the Oxford Street
Hall. Next day our visiting continued, and we found a
dull spirit among the people. Trade was very bad, and the
working people were extremely poor. Many of them were
unable to give us a good meal of victuals unless they suf-
fered themselves in consequence; yet they seemed very
kind to us, but sluggish in spirit. That night we preached
in Hockley Chapel, Farm Street.

On the 3rd we visited the different markets in the city;
on the 4th met Elders A. M. Lyman, C. C. Rich and N.
V. Jones; and on the 5th were with the Saints in conference
in the Odd Fellows' Hall, where large congregations assem-
bled. The presidents of the branches in the Birmingham
conference made favorable reports, and the Gospel was
preached by Apostles Lyman and Rich and others of the
Elders. That night J. C. Rich and I stayed at Brother
Acock's. It did not seem possible to get the people into
the notion of going to bed before midnight; that seeming
to be the custom in the English cities.

The Gillott steel and gold pen factory was the object
of an interesting visit by J. C. Rich, F. G. Blake and my-
self on August 6th. We passed through the factory, and
saw the work from rolling the large bars of steel down to

420 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

finishing the pen ready for use; there were four hundred
persons employed in the factory. That evening the Elders
met in council, and J. C. Rich and I were appointed to
labor in the Nottingham pastorate. Next day, in company
with several others, I visited the grave of Elder James H.
Flanagan, who died while on a mission; his body was
interred in the old Birmingham cemetery. In the evening
we had a pleasant sociable at the home of Brother Smith,
and next day J. C. Rich and I took the train for Notting-
ham, where we were met at the station by Elder Edward
Reid, president of the conference, and were conducted to
No. 24 Promenade, Robinhood Street, where the wife of
Elder David John had dinner waiting for us. We next
went to Radcliffe Chapel, where we met with a goodly
number of Saints, and preached to them. Elder David
John presided over the Nottingham pastorate. The day
after reaching the town I took a severe cold, and had to
lay by the next day.

We found Nottingham a very different place to Liver-
pool and Birmingham. The town and adjacent country
were not so smoky and unhealthful. The town had about
one hundred and eighty thousand inhabitants, and was the
center of the silk and cotton lace and hosiery industries.

On Sunday, x\ugust 12th, Elders A. M. Lyman and
N. V. Jones (who had come from Liverpool) and I preached
to the Saints; on the 13th J. C. Rich and I went to visit
G. Wright, at the request of his niece who lived in Utah;
his home was at Fisherton, on the river Trent, and after an
unwelcome greeting there we returned to Nottingham.
Next day we went to Mansfield with Elder James Payne,
passing through the place where Robin Hood roamed.
That evening we preached to the Saints, then spent the
next two days preaching in different villages. At Pixton,
on the 16th, we visited a coal pit.

Leicester, the county seat of Leicestershire, and center

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 42 1

of the boot and shoe trade, was our destination on August
19th. We preached there that night, and on Monday vis-
ited the museum. The rest of the week we spent in visit-
ing and preaching in several villages, then returned to
Nottingham. At Loughborough, on the 22nd, our meeting
was disturbed by several rude young men, who laughed
and asked questions in an offensive manner. A stone was
hurled through the window at me, while I was preaching.
It passed just in front of me, but no one was hit. The
meeting was dismissed in confusion.

On the 26th, we went to Derby for a couple of days.
My health continued to be very poor during this period of
my travels. Burton-on-Trent, a place noted for the brew-
ing of malt liquors, was visited on the 28th, and that night
I preached at Branston, then stayed at the house of a chim-
ney-sweep named Doman. He had been in the Church
nineteen years. Nest day we preached in the pottery dis-
trict, then returned to Derby, where, on the 31st, we went
through Fox & Company's shot factory, going to the top
of the tower, two hundred and twenty steps. That even-
ing we went to a theatre.

During the first part of September, I traveled and
preached, visiting Nottingham, Derby, Belper and several
adjacent villages. I attended the Derby races on the 6th;
there were about twenty thousand people in attendance.
On the 1 2th, I left Nottingham for London in company
with Brothers J. C. Rich and Blackburn, and Sister Cook
and daughter, going via the Midland railway. From St.
Pancras station we went to Brother John Cook's, at No. 30
Florence Street, Cross Street, Islington, London, where I
made my home during my stay in the metropolis. There
we met with Elders John Brown, F. M. Lyman, and John
Gleason.

I remained in London and vicinity until October 3rd.
During our stay at the national capital we visited many in-

42 2 I.IKE OF A PIONEER.

teresting places, among them being the tunnel under the
Thames, which is reached by a flight of one hundred steps,
is four hundred yards from end to end, and while we were
passing through there were some fifteen to twenty ships
lying above it, and steamboats passing over it up and down
the river. We visited the British hospitals for invalided
soldiers and sailors, and went from there to Greenwich,
whence is measured longitude east and west, and where we
also saw the standard weights and measures of Great
Britain.

The British Museum; the King's Library; Westmin-
ster Abbey, where Great Britain's rulers are anointed and
crowned by the archbishops of the Church of England;
the Parliament buildings, wherein are the House of Lords
and House of Commons, with the throne and the woolsack;
Buckingham Palace, the city residence of Queen Victoria;
St. Paul's Cathedral, which was undergoing repairs;
National Gallery; Cattle Market; Zoological Gardens, with
the giraffe, the hippopotamus, the rhinoceros and all man-
ner of beasts and birds; South Kensington Museum; Hyde
Park; White Tower of London, where are the block and
ax used in beheading Queen Anne Boleyn and Mary,
Queen of Scots, also the royal regalia, and much other
material of historic value; London Bridge, with its va^t
traffic; Crystal Palace with its tower four hundred and
twelve steps to the top, from which can be seen six counties
of England ; Anatomical Museum ; Madame Tussaud's
Bazar; the Dockyards, and the rich residence portion of
London, all were visited by us, and were very interesting
and entertaining.

On September 13th we attended a tea party of the
Saints near King's Cross station. Several times I preached
to congregations, both on the Surrey side of the Thames,
and on the north side. On the 14th, Elders A. M. Lyman
and N. V. Jones came from Scotland to London. I received

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 423

a letter from home on the 25th, Tuesday, bringing the sad
intelligence of the death of Deseret Ann, my second
daughter, also of the birth to her mother, my wife Rebecca,
of a daughter. I wrote an answer to that letter the same
day. During the time I was in London I had a severe
cold and my health was far from good. I returned to Not-
tingham on October 3rd, via the Great Northern railway,
and resumed my missionary labors in that conference.

CHAPTER LV1I.

AGAIN AT MISSIONARY LABORS— BAPTISMS— BECOME QUITE ILL— AP-
POINTED PRESIDENT OF THE NOTTINGHAM DISTRICT, EMBRACING
THREE CONFERENCES— VISITED BY APOSTLES A. M. LYMAN, C C.
RICH AND OTHERS— SETTLING DIFFERENCES AMONG CHURCH
MEMBERS— ATTEND A PHRENOLOGICAL LECTURE— GET A CHART
—GO TO LIVERPOOL— IN CONFERENCE AT NOTTINGHAM— MY PAS-
TORATE ENLARGED— WITNESS A MILITARY REVIEW— MORE BAP-
TISMS—VISIT SHEFFIELD— FIXING MY NAME-POVERTY IN NOT-
TINGHAM—INVITED TO TAKE A TRIP TO PARIS— GO TO LONDON-
HAVE TO GIVE UP THE VISIT TO FRANCE— IN POOR HEALTH-
RETURN TO NOTTINGHAM— SEE PROFESSOR BLONDIN.

THE month of October was occupied in traveling and
preaching in the district where I was assigned to
labor as a missionary. In fulfilling this calling I visited, be-
sides the town of Nottingham, which was headquarters,
Derby, Leicester, Burton- on-Trent,Radcliffe, Arnold, Huck-
nall, Mansfield, Pixton, Ukiston, Woodhouse, Wirksworth,
Mount St. Bernard, Tutbury and other places, preaching in
some of them several times. On October 23, I visited the
Mount Saint Bernard monastery, and a reformatory for in-
corrigible boys. The first named was a Catholic institu-
tion.

November was occupied similarly to October, and in

424 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

addition to most of the places visited in the last named
month, I was at Belper, Carlton, Coalville and other small
towns. On the nth I baptized three young women, Annie
Simpson, Harriet Cadman and Eliza Bates. The weather
turning cold and stormy, my health was not very good.
Apostle C. C. Rich came on the 24th and on the 28th we
went to Sutton, where I had to stop for several days, I was
so ill.

The month of December had some very cold and
stormy weather, but my health was somewhat improved.
I continued in my missionary district, going to several new
places. I was invited by Sisters Underwood and Burrows
to take dinner on Christmas. Mr. Burrows was a police-
man, and was not a member of the Church. I stayed with
him at his home on Christmas night. The next evening
we had a meeting in Radcliffe, at which an unpleasant
spirit was displayed by some. I advised the Saints to
fast and pray to get the Spirit of the Lord. Brother
John was offended with this advice, and remonstrated, and
when the meeting was dismissed there was a feeling of dis-
satisfaction among the people. On the 30th of December
I was appointed to the presidency of the Nottingham pas-
torate, embracing the Nottingham, Derby and Leicester
conferences of the Church. I was quite ill at this time,
with the mumps. My appointmemt came from Apostles
A. M. Lyman, C. C. Rich and George Q. Cannon, the
presidency of the European mission of the Church of Jesus
Christ of Latter-day Saints.

The opening of the year 1861 found me quite ill, and
for the first few days of January I was confined to my bed
most of the time. On the 6th we held conference in Not-
tingham, and on the evening before, Elders A. M. Lyman,
C. C. Rich, G. Gates, J. Gleason, C. Welsh, A. Orme and
H. Druce came to meet with us. We had a good time at
the conference. Elders A. M. Lyman and C. C. Rich

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 425

stayed with us till the nth, and I visited part of the time
with them, going to various villages in the neighborhood,
where they preached. During the remainder of the month
I traveled and preached and attended to the conference
books and business generally. Brother David John came
to me on the 28th, being very sorry for the unpleasant re-
marks he had made, and we settled matters satisfactorily
to both, parting with the best of feelings. The next day
he and his family moved to South Wales. My health con-
tinued to be quite poor. On the 30th I took a shock from
an electric battery, hoping it would do me some good.

My health was not much improved during the month
of February; but I continued my missionary visits and
other duties, writing to my father and family, and endeav-
oring to carry the Gospel message wherever I could. On
the 13th, at the urgent request of Sister Mary Wilson, I
visited her parents and sick sister at Newark, being kindly
received and invited to call again. From the 19th to the
23rd, Elder C. C. Rich paid a visit to the conference and
preached to the people.

On March 2nd I attended a meeting called at Pinxton
to settle a difficulty among some of the members of the
Church. It had continued about three years, but after a
long meeting we succeeded in arranging matters, and three
of the parties concerned agreed to repent and be baptized.
My visits to the various branches continued. On the 6th I
baptized Wm. Burton, Miss Cadman and Miss Betts. On
the 1 2th I was associated in the confirmation of twelve per-
sons who had been baptized by Elder J. C. Rich the even-
ing before. On the 25th of this month I attended one of
the Fowler and Wells lectures on phrenology, and was so
interested that on the 28th I obtained a phrenological chart
of myself.

I attended a tea party on April 1st, about two hun-
dred persons being present. The evening was spent pleas-

27

426 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

antly, in singing, reciting and speech-making and partaking
of lunch. The next day I baptized seven persons at Notting-
ham. In the course of my missionary duties, I called a
meeting of the Mansfield branch on April 9, to settle a dif-
ficulty of long standing. I released from performing any
Church official duties all who held the Priesthood, because
of continual jarring and contention among them. On the
18th I went with some emigrating Saints to Liverpool, to
assist them, settling their business and getting their tickets.

At Liverpool, on the 19th, I accompanied Apostle C.
C. Rich on a search among the docks for a ship that could
be chartered, but we were not successful in finding one. The
next day the Saints went on board the ship Underwriter,
which had been chartered previously for this company, and
I assisted those who had come with me to get settled on
the vessel. The next day, Sunday, the presidency of the
mission went on the ship, where the company was organ-
ized with Elder Milo Andrus as president, Elders H. Dun-
can and C. W. Penrose as counselors, and John Cook as
steward. The migrating Saints were also given appropri-
ate instructions by Apostles Lyman, Rich and Cannon.
Next day the vessel sailed, and on the following day, Tues-
day, I returned to my missionary duties at Nottingham and
vicinity. On the 29th, the day after holding a conference
at Nottingham, I baptized six persons.

In the early part of May — -the 5th — conference was
held in Leicester, Apostle C. C. Rich being in attendance.
He remained till the 9th, preaching to the people in differ-
ent places. On the 17th I received a letter from Apostle
George Q. Cannon, informing me that my district had been
enlarged, the Lincolnshire conference being detached from
Elder Joseph F. Smith's district and added to mine, so there
were four conferences in my pastorate. On the 20th I
baptized one man and two women who had been cut off
the Church, but desired to return. Next day I was a spec-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 427

tator, with about forty thousand other people, at a review
of the Nottingham Rifles, before the Duke of Newcastle,
at Nottingham Forest. On the 25th Apostle G. Q. Cannon
came from Liverpool, held meetings, and attended to busi-
ness in conference.

On June 2nd I attended to three more baptisms, and
on the 6th was at the Sheffield conference, which was in
•charge of Elder Joseph F. Smith. During my stay there I
visited a large manufactory of steel and iron ware, and
■called on the Norfolk giant, but he was too ill "to be seen.
On the 13th I returned to Nottingham, traveling as far as
Grantham with Apostles Lyman and Rich, who went on to
London. The remainder of the month was occupied in my
general duties. It was in this month that I wrote to the
Millennial Star, explaining how my name was James
Brown, and then because of others of the same name I
became known as James Brown 2nd, then James Brown
3rd, and had concluded to take my mother's maiden name,
Stephens, so that thereafter I would have an initial to dis-
tinguish me, and be known as James S. Brown.

At Nottingham, on June 6, many poor people marched
through the streets, asking and singing for food, or money
to buy it. The next day after meeting, I was presented by
Sister Elizabeth Wilson with a small anchor, cross and
heart she had made out of a stone she had picked up on
the beach at Folkestone, England. On the 8th I received
a letter from Apostle C. C. Rich, inviting Elder J. C. Rich
and myself to meet him and Apostle A. M. Lvman in Lon-
don on the 14th, to take a trip to Paris, France. Accord-
ingly, I arranged the conference business, and we wefe in
London on the date named, attending conference.

Our contemplated visit to France had to be given up,
however, as the Apostles were called to Scotland to attend to
some matters there. We visited many places of interest in
London, such as the Anatomical Museum, the Polytechnic

428 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Institute, Crystal Palace, Bank of England, the Fire Monu-
ment, the Docks, Tower of London, St. Paul's Cathedral,
Smithfield Market, the Mint, Windsor Castle, and Eton
College. On the 1.7th, at Crystal Palace, we heard the
chorus of three thousand five hundred children. At Eton
College we found the students inclined to be impudent,
throwing pebbles at passers-by and staring rudely at them.
During the latter part of my stay in London I was
quite ill, and had to remain indoors part of the time, once
being in all day. I returned to Nottingham on the 24th,
where the only thing of particular interest outside of my
missionary duties that I observed during that month was
on the 30th, when I went out to the park and saw Pro-
fessor Blondin perform on the tight rope.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 429

CHAPTER LVIII.

PROLONGED ILLNESS— ATTEND TO MY DUTIES WITH DIFFICULTY-LET-
TER TELLING OF THE BATTLE OF BULL'S RUN— WITNESS AN EXE-
CUTION BY HANGING— YISIT FROM GEORGE Q. CANNON, JOSEPH
F. SMITH AND OTHERS— DEATH OF THE PRINCE CONSORT— GO TO
BIRMINGHAM— CONFERENCE OF THE PRIESTHOOD IN THE BRIT-
ISH MISSION— LARGE MEETING IN ODD FELLOWS' HALL. BIRMING-
HAM—AGAIN AT NOTTINGHAM— YISIT LIYEHPOOL-CONSULT A
PHYSICIAN, BUT GET LITTLE RELIEF— SEE THE LIYERPOOL
GRAND NATIONAL RACES-DEPRAVITY AMONG POORER CLASSES
IN LIVERPOOL— AGAIN AT NOTTINGHAM— RELEASED TO RETURN
HOME-BID THE PEOPLE FAREWELL— DISPLAY OF THEIR AFFEC-
TION FOR ME— REPORT OF MY' LABORS PUBLISHED IN THE MIL-
LENNIAL STAR— ON BOARD SHIP— PLACED IN CHARGE OF THE
COMPANY— SAIL FOR AMERICA— DRIVEN BY HEADWINDS ALONG
THE COASTS OF THE ISLE OF MAN, WALES, JRELAND AND SCOT-
LAND—SEVERE SEASICKNESS — GET TO SEA— SLOW VOYAGE-
DEATHS AND BURIALS AT SEA— LAND AT NEW YORK— GUEST
OF HON. W. H. HOOPER— JOURNEY TO FLORENCE, NEBRASKA-
CAPTAIN AND GUIDE OF INDEPENDENT COMPANY— REACH SALT
LAKE CITY— REPORT TO PRESIDENT YOUNG— AGAIN AT HOME.

DURING the remainder of the year 1861 I was in
very poor health, often having to stay in my room
all day, and when I was able to get about, many times it
was with great difficulty, as I was quite lame in my hips
and shoulder. I tried various applications and simple rem-
edies, but to little purpose. I moved around as best I could,
however, and by determined efforts I was able to attend to
my duties, visiting the Saints, and preaching the Gospel
wherever opportunity offered, whether at indoor or outdoor
meetings. Sometimes, when I was able to get to the meet-
ings of the Saints, I was too ill to stand up and preach, but
toward the latter part of the year my health improved a
little.

The civil war in America was on. having begun after I

43° LIFE OF A PIONEER.

left; and on August 5th I received a letter telling of the
battle of Bull's Run. near Manassas Junction, which was-
fought July 21, 1861, and in which the Union forces were
defeated. On the 16th of August I went to the Derbyshire
jail yard in Derby, and there saw a young man named
George Smith executed by hanging. He had murdered
his father. From thirty-five to forty thousand people wit-
nessed the execution.

On the 1st of September Apostle George Q. Cannon
was in Nottingham, attending conference, and we had large
meetings and an excellent time. On October 1st Elder
Joseph F. Smith and other missionaries came from Sheffield
on a visit, and remained several days, spending the time
among the Saints. At Nottingham we had a. tea party in
the Arboretum, at which about two hundred persons were
present. I was visiting the Saints at Pinxton on December
14th, the day that Prince Albert, husband of Queen Vic-
toria, died at Windsor Castle.

I started for Birmingham on the 31st of December to
attend a conference of those in the British Mission who held
the Holy Priesthood. This conference began on Wednesday,
January 1, 1862, and was largely attended. We had a most
enjoyable time in making reports of our experiences and in
receiving instruction and testifying of the blessings of the
Gospel. The meetings began at 10 a. m. and lasted till 2
p. m., then at 4 p. m. and lasted till 7 p- m. They continued
through Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, the
presidency of the European Mission, Apostles A. M.
Lyman, Charles C. Rich and George Q. Cannon, being in
attendance and directing the meetings. On Sunday, the
5th, we met with the Saints in Odd Fellows' Hall, the con-
gregation numbering about fifteen hundred persons; an ex-
cellent feeling prevailed. Next day the Priesthood meet-
ings were concluded, and on Tuesday I left Birmingham
for Derby, in my own missionary district. On the 27th of

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 43 1

January I was in Nottingham, and baptized and confirmed
Elizabeth Hardy.

My health again became quite bad, but I performed
my duties, preaching, baptizing, visiting and conversing
with the people on the subject of the Gospel, and attending
to the business in my pastorate, until March 5th, when I
took the train for Liverpool. There I consulted Apostles
A. M. Lyman and G. Q. Cannon, and on the 7th Elder
Cannon introduced me to Dr. Smith, who pronounced my
ailment neuralgia, and prescribed turkish baths and the
magnetic-electric machine. I remained in Liverpool till the
22nd, occasionally visiting, in company with some of the
Elders, places of interest such as the new park and the
botanical gardens. On March nth we saw the Liverpool
races at Aintree, a suburb. There were two plate races
and the grand national steeple chase. At one hurdle a
horse fell on his rider and the latter was picked up for dead,
but he recovered; three other riders were unhorsed. About
twenty thousand people were in attendance at these races.
It was while in Liverpool, on March 18th, as I was walking
through the northwest part of the town in compan)7 with
Elder George J. Taylor, that I saw hundreds of people in
the most degraded state in which I ever beheld human
beings.

My health having improved a little, I returned to Not-
tingham on the 22nd, Apostle G. Q. Cannon's wife and
child accompanying me. Mrs. Cannon had been very ill, and
had been advised to go to Nottingham in the hope of the
change benefiting her health. On reaching Nottingham,
I there resumed my missionary labors. My health again
began to fail, and early in April I received notice of my re-
lease to return home. On the 'Jth of April Sister Cannon
went to Liverpool in company with her husband. I settled
business of the conference and went to different branches
and bade the Saints good-bye. They exhibited their affec-

432 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

tion for me by many words and acts of kindness. On April
13th I preached my farewell sermon in Nottingham, and it
was with mingled feelings of sorrow and joy that I bade
the Saints farewell — sorrow to leave them, and joy to see
the display of love toward me by both members of the
Church and numbers of people who were not members.
On Monday, April 14th, I went to Liverpool. The next
day I wrote the following, which was published in the Mil-
lennial Star :

"Liverpool, April 15, 1862.
" President Cannon:

"Dear Brother: — I take pleasure in writing to you
a brief report of my labors in the ministry of the Notting-
ham District. On the 7th of August, i860, I was appointed
by the presidency here, namely: A. M. Lyman and C. C.
Rich, to labor as a traveling Elder in the aforementioned
district, where I continued my labors in company with
Elder Joseph C. Rich and under the pastoral charge of
Elder David John, until January 1st, 1861. I then received
an appointment to the presidency of the Nottingham Dis-
trict, composed of the Nottingham, Derby, Leicester and
Lincolnshire conferences, where I continued my labors un-
til the 14th instant, when I arrived in Liverpool, having re-
ceived your letter of release, with the privilege of returning
to our mountain home in Utah.

"I can truly say that I have taken much pleasure in my
field of labor, for I have seen my feeble exertions in con-
nection with the Priesthood laboring with me crowned with
success. I have witnessed an increase of the good Spirit
among the Saints. We have not only witnessed these
symptoms of increase, but have added by baptism some
two hundred and fifty souls, besides many rebaptisms; and
many misunderstandings of the Saints have been corrected,
so that, with a few exceptions, the Saints are in fellowship
with one another.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 433

"In that district, I think, there have been some four
excommunicated and five disfellowshiped during the last
twenty-one months; and with the present year's emigration,
we have two hundred emigrated from that district. Suffice
it to say, that the district is in a healthy condition. The
Saints are feeling very well, and are full of the spirit to
emigrate. Many strangers are becoming very much inter-
ested in our meetings, insomuch that some of them attend
regularly; and on Sunday evening, the 13th, after I
preached my farewell sermon in Nottingham, some four
or five strangers, whom I have no recollection of ever see-
ing before, — shook hands with me, saying, 'God bless
you,' and at the same time they did not forget to bless me
themselves, thus exemplifying their faith by their works.
I find the people in the midland counties to be a kind-
hearted people; and when once you get the crust of tradi-
tion in which they are encased cracked, so as to feed them
with the bread of eternal life, they generally receive it
with great joy and gladness.

"Although I have not enjoyed very good health any of
the time I have been in this country, I feel sometimes to re-
gret leaving the mission, when I reflect upon the memory
of so many warm throbbing hearts for Zion, whose circum-
stances are rather forbidding at present; yet I feel that if
they would arouse with more energy and life, and be more
faithful in reading the Stars and Journals, attend their meet-
ings, and be more faithful in their duties, and not pore over
their poverty so much, the time is not far distant when they
will be able to accomplish that most desirable object of
going to Zion.

"And now I beg to bid good-bye to the Saints of the
Nottingham District, and say, may the God of Israel bless
and preserve them, together with all the Saints and the
honest in heart in all the world. And as I expect to leave
this country on the 21st instant, I bid adieu to her majesty's

434 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

dominions and to all her subjects. I have lifted up my voice
and cried aloud, and spared not, till I feel that my skirts are
clear, so far as this mission to the British nation is con-
cerned.

"And now with kind regards to yourself, Presidents Ly-
man and Rich, my brethren and co-laborers in the ministry
and the many faithful Saints under their watchcare, I bid
all an affectionate farewell, praying God to bless and pros-
per every effort made to advance the interests of His king-
dom.

"I subscribe myself your brother in the Gospel of Christ,.

"James S. Brown."

I was variously engaged the next two days in prepar-
ing for the voyage, and in assisting others. On Saturday,,
the 19th, I went on board the ship John J. Boyd, on which
we were to sail. That day a young man who resided at
Nottingham and who had been courting Miss Mary Oakey,
from the same district, came to Liverpool, and the young
lady went out with him. They were never seen again by
us. We supposed they had eloped.

On Monday, the 21st, I again went on board. Apostles
A. M. Lyman, C. C. Rich and George Q. Cannon came on
the vessel and organized the company of emigrating Saints,,
with the following presidency: James S. Brown, president;.
John Lindsay and J. C. Rich, counselors. The Apostles
gave us much good instructions and bade us good-bye,,
after which we made a further temporary organization so
as to call watches for the night; then, after prayer, we re-
tired, it being about midnight. Next day the company was
organized into nine wards, with a presiding teacher over j
each. There were on board six hundred and ninety-six
emigrating Saints, and the crew, which made the total up-
to seven hundred and thirty-five souls.

At half-past seven o'clock on the 23rd we weighed

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 435

anchor, and the vessel was towed about twenty miles out to
sea, and left, in a strong headwind. We beat about the
Irish Channel all day, and about 4 p. m., drew so close to
the Isle of Man that we could see the towns and distinguish
the houses. Then we tacked about and sailed away along
the coast of Wales. Nearly everybody on board was sea-
sick, and one child, about five months old, in a family named
Hardy, died. It was buried at sea on the 24th. Myself
and counselors went among the people, waiting on them
and cheering them.

Next day the heavy headwind continued, and the sea-
sickness seemed very severe. I was affected myself, but
still was able to help others. We went along between the
Isle of Man and the coast of Ireland, and by the 26th, when
the wind became lighter, we could see the coast of Ireland
on our left and the Scottish hills on the right. We could
also see the Irish houses, farms and roads quite plainly. It
was noon on the 27th before we passed out of sight of land,
the last we saw being a small island off the northwest coast
of Ireland.

From that time on we experienced all kinds of weather,
from a dead calm to a heavy gale. On the 1st of May the
wind was so strong it carried away the jib-boom and fore-
top-gallant mast. On the 5th a little boy named Benjamin
V. Williams died from a fall down the hatchway on May
1st. Taking all things together, however, we got along
fairly well. Once we had to complain to the captain of
rough treatment by the third mate and some of the sailors,
and it was checked. On May 21st we sighted Sandy Hook,
and on June 1st we cast anchor in the bay of New York.
On the voyage we had had cases of measles and whooping-
cough, and there were seven deaths in our company while
we were at sea.

On landing in New York I received an invitation from
Hon. Wm. H. Hooper for the Utah Elders to stay at the

43^ LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Astor House at his expense. Eleven of us availed our-
selves of the courtesy extended. On June 2nd the
emigrants were landed and we proceeded west via Niagara
Falls and the lakes to Detroit, then by way of Chicago,
Quincy and Hannibal to St. Joseph, Missouri. From, that
point we went to Florence, Nebraska, by steamboat, and
there I turned over my charge to Joseph W. Young, who
was conducting affairs at that place.

I was next assigned to an independent company which
had its own outfit, and was selected as captain and guide.
The company consisted of two hundred and fifty souls, with
fifty wagons and teams. We left Florence in the latter part
of June, and arrived in Salt Lake City on September 23,
1862. I made my report to President Brigham Young, and
was honorably released. I stayed in the city till after the
October conference of the Church, then hastened home to
my family in Ogden City, finding them all well.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 437

CHAPTER LIX.

REMOVE FROM OGDEN TO SALT LAKE CITY AT THE REQUEST OF PRESI-
DENT YOUNG— NECESSITY FOR PREACHING AMONG THE SAINTS—
IN THE EMPLOY OF PRESIDENT YOUNG— ON ANOTHER MISSION,
THIS TIME IN UTAH— PREACHING AND LECTURING— BUILD A
HOUSE— GO TO THE CANYON TO GET FINISHING LUMBER— SHOT
IN MISTAKE FOR A BEAR— MY WOUND VERY SERIOUS— TAKEN TO
WANSHIP TO RECEIVE CARE— MY FAMILY NOTIFIED AND SURGI-
CAL ASSISTANCE OBTAINED— MOVED TO MY HOME— IN BED NINE
MONTHS— TWO SURGICAL OPERATIONS - GROW STRONGER— EM-
PLOYED AT THE WARM SPRINGS— DR. ROBINSON— ABSCESSES IN MY
WOUNDED LIMB- OUT OF EMPLOYMENT— GO TO THE CALIFORNIA
LINE TO EXAMINE A GOLD PROSPECT— PERILOUS JOURNEY— IN-
DIANS ON THE WARPATH— REMARKABLE EXPERIENCE WITH A
BAND OF SAVAGES— GIFT OF SPEAKING THEIR LANGUAGE— UN-
ABLE TO WORK THE' GOLD CLAIM BECAUSE OF LACK OF WATER
—RETURN TO SALT LAKE CITY— GO TO THE GOLD DISCOVERIES
ON THE SWEETWATER— DISCOVER A PLACER CLAIM— AN ATTEMPT
TO ROB ME OF IT -RUSH FOR A MINE— HOLD THE CLAIM— AS-
SAILED BY HOSTILE INDIANS— A RACE FOR LIFE— THREE MEN
KILLED— WE ABANDON CAMP— SUFFER WITH MY LAME LIMB—
LOSE THE MINING CLAIM— HAULING COAL AND PRODUCE— ALMOST
DIE-CONFINED TO BED FOR MONTHS— AMPUTATION OF MY' LIMB
TO SAVE MY LIFE— RECOVERY— ATTEND TO MY NURSERY— ADVENT
OF THE RAILWAY'— TRAVELING AND PREACHING— A SLIGHT SUN-
STROKE.

s

"* HORTLY atter my return from my mission to Europe,
President Brigham Young was in Ogden, and told me
he wished me to locate my family in Salt Lake City, pre-
paratory to my going on another mission, if not a foreign,
a home mission; "for," said he, "I don't know of any
people on earth that need more preaching to than do the
Latter-day Saints at home. We send our Elders out to
preach and to gather the people from workshops and fac-
tories, then set those people down here in a new country

43§ LIFE OF A PIONEER.

and leave them to do the best they can, without necessary
experience; and the result is that many of them get dis-
couraged and apostatize ; whereas, if the Elders would
keep the harness on, and preach to and encourage them,
they would stay and make good Latter-day Saints."

I moved to Salt Lake City according to President
Young's advice, and was about eleven months in his em-
ploy. Then, by his appointment, I traveled through the
Territory, preaching, and lecturing on my travels and ex-
periences. The people in Utah were liberal, giving me
much assistance, principally in the way of farm products.

In 1863 I purchased a lot from President Young, be-
gan the erection of a two-story adobe house, and moved
into it in 1864. It was not completed, and in August I
went into the mountains to get finishing lumber. On the
night of the 20th of that month I was shot by a camp
mate, in mistake for a bear. The young man who shot me
was Alexander Gilbert. The bullet entered two-thirds of
the way above my knee, on the inside of the left thigh, and
shattered the bone into many fragments. The weapon
was a United States yauger, and carried a half-ounce ball,
which was broken to bits, and, with parts of my clothing,
including two pieces of a brass suspender buckle, lodged in
my limb.

The accident occurred in Alexander Canyon, about
three miles above Wanship, Summit County, between 11
and 12 o'clock at night. There were four of us in camp at
the time. The man who did the shooting ran and told
George G. Snyder, who was soon at my side with a team
and light spring wagon, and with some stimulants. He
and my camp mates tenderly lifted me on the bed, and con-
veyed me to the home of my father-in-law, Nathan Tanner,
in Wanship, where I was kindly cared for by him and his
family, and my own family notified of the accident that had
befallen me. My wound being of a most serious character,

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 439

the best surgical attention procurable at the time was ob-
tained.

The surgeon advised amputation, but I objected as long
.as there was any hope of saving the limb. I laid there till
November, then was moved to my home in Salt Lake
'City. For nine months I laid on my back, unable to move
from that position. During that time two surgical opera-
tions were performed, taking out parts of shattered bone
and the bullet. I was reduced to a skeleton, and became
•so weak I could not feed myself or even lift a sheet of
paper between my thumb and finger. After the second
surgical operation, however, I began to improve, and in a
few weeks could get around with a crutch and a cane.

As I grew stronger, I was able to work some in my
nursery; and when, in the autumn of that year, 1865, the
municipality opened the Warm Springs to the public I was
given charge thereof, and remained in that position till the
autumn of 1866. I was thereat the time Dr. J. King Robin-
son, who had had a dispute with the city over the Warm
Springs property, was killed, October 22, 1866. When I
was brought from Wanship in November, 1864, after being
shot, Dr. Robinson, as associate surgeon in my case, was
the first one to do any cutting on my limb.

During the time after I was able to move around, sub-
sequent to the months I had to lie in bed, my wounded
limb gave me much trouble- Abscesses would form, caus-
ing me severe pain, then would burst, and when the pus
was drained the flesh would heal again. But I was able
to perform only light physical labor, so when, late in the
autumn of 1866, business fell off at the Warm Springs, I
was notified that, as I was unable to do all the work re-
quired and the bath house did not have sufficient patronage
to pay two men's wages, my services were no longer re-
quired. While business was good I had purchased a hack,
one of the first in the city, to convey passengers to and

440 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

from the Warm Springs, the route being to the business
part of town, but as traffic fell off 1 had to dispose of the
vehicle. Thus when I was thrown out of employment I
was left without means of obtaining a livelihood for myself
and family.

I had some specimens of the gold I had discovered
near the southeastern boundary of California in 1849,
when I was going on my first mission to the Society Islands.
I showed the specimens to President Brigham Young, and
in the spring of 1867, with a company which he had
authorized me to select, started for the California border,
our destination being a point in the desert known as Salt
Springs. The company included Wood Birdno, Lemuel
Steele, Dr. Hickman, Robert Egbert and seven others be-
sides myself.

On reaching Los Vegas, we learned from white men,
of whom there were about fifty there, that the Indians
were on the warpath. Two of the savages had been killed
by the white men, and their tribe was seeking revenge. The
red men had challenged the white men to come out of their
fort and fight; but the challenge was not accepted. We
were warned that to continue the journey meant certain
death, so I told my companions they were at liberty to re-
turn, but I proposed to go on. All of the company elected
to do the same.

We proceeded very carefully, and in going along a
narrow canyon we observed fresh Indian tracks. These
were noticeable for about five miles, but in that distance we
saw no Indians, though we momentarily expected them,
and kept a sharp lookout. At last we discovered one
Indian who claimed to be friendly, but he left us soon — an
action which we accepted as an indication of trouble. In
the afternoon we selected a camping place on an almost
bare knoll, where it seemed impossible for a man to
find shelter enough to hide himself. As I was very tired,

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 44 1

my companions spread some quilts for me to lie down on.
Scarce had they done so when a large Indian rose up from
a little gully where he had been hidden. He was within
shooting distance, and was well armed. As soon as we saw
him, my companions seized their weapons, whereupon I
shouted "Hold on!"

The Indian made a motion as if to express a wish to
shake hands, and I threw my hand up and down again, in
an involuntary movement, the meaning of which I did not
know in Indian sign language. The stranger received it
as a friendly invitation, and came forward and shook
hands. Again, as on former occasions, I had the gift of
the tongue or language which the Indians in this vicinity
— near Williams' Ranch — spoke, though I had never heard
it before. I talked to him, and learned that there were other
Indians secreted close by. He called to them, and about fif-
teen rose up and came to camp. I was informed that white
men had killed some of their number, and that one wounded
Indian was lying a short distance away. This one I asked
to be brought in and laid near my bed, which was done. Dr.
Hickman examined his wounds, a shot through the cheek
and one in the hip, which he said were not fatal.

I also directed a piece of wagon cover spread out, and
told the Indians I wanted their weapons laid on that, which
was done. Then some of our company rolled the wagon
cover up and tied it, so the guns could not be got at readily
if there were trouble. Then, when our guards had been
set for the night, we laid down and slept in peace and
safety. We made a bargain with the Indians to take care
of our animals at a place where there was good grass, and
they did so.

The next day we moved on and met no further trouble
or danger. We reached our destination in due course, and
examined the gold prospect, which was quite rich. But
there was no water within twenty-five miles, and it was not

28

442 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

practicable to work the mines with the methods within our
reach in those days. We had to give up and return home,
our route of travel being by way of the Colorado River as
far as Call's Fort, then by the settlements on the Muddy into
Utah. I reported the trip and its results to President
Young.

At that time there had arisen some excitement over
gold discoveries on the Sweetwater, near South Pass.
Fourteen years previous to that date I had related to Presi-
dent Young how the Indians had told me of gold in that
locality. President Young showed me specimens that had
been brought him from the new discovery, and told me to
get a few men and see what I could do, as he believed it
was a good opportunity for me. I did so, and in July,
1867, in company with Foster Curtis, Brower Pettit, Ben-
jamin Brown and B. Y. Hampton, started for the Sweet-
water.

Reaching our destination, we prospected for the
precious metal. One day I went out alone, and at the base
of a slope near the Teresa mine I discovered free gold. I
dug a hole and worked at it, securing dirt that carried fifty
to sixty cents per pan. It was a placer claim, and I decided
that we would occupy it. While I was getting out some
of the gold, S. Sharp Walker came along and saw it, and
on going to camp told the men. I did not know this till
after, but early next morning, before daylight, I overheard
a man in the tent next to our wagon tell of a plan to seize
the claim. A lot of men were there, Mormons and non-
Mormons. I awoke my companions, and it was agreed
that they should go and stake the claim, while I should get
it recorded. This we did, and had the work accomplished
before day was fairly on. I reached the claim, to which
the others had preceded me, before those who intended to
jump it arrived at the place, and when the latter came up I
was prepared to defend it. One man said he had staked

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. / 443

the claim before us, but as his statement was not true, we
stood him off and retained possession.

Our party went to work, while I started to find my
horses, which had strayed away. As I rode up on a knoll.
I discovered a war party of seventy-five or eighty Indians,
supposed to be Sioux. I had intended to dismount and
fasten my saddle, but finding I was discovered and that
about twenty-five of the Indians were closing in on me
with horses much faster than I had, I started for camp
with the loose saddle, skurrying over rocks and sagebrush.
On the way back I found my horses and started them, and
they ran directly into camp. In the ride my foot came out
of the stirrup, and my lame limb dangled, beyond any
power of mine to use it. Two Indians ran close up on me
and one drew his bow with a fixed arrow. I straightened
up, expecting to receive the missile in my back. Just then
some of the men who were in our camp, and who had
heard my shouts, came out and fired, and my pursuer turned
to save himself, while I escaped injury.

At the camp all was excitement. One man, Corinth
Lawrence, had been shot and scalped, his body being found
some time after I came in. Isador Morris had had a nar-
row escape. That day there were two others killed on
their way to camp. They were Anthony Showell, an east-
ern man, and Orson Taylor, from Springville, Utah.
Showell was found and buried, but Taylor's body never
was discovered, that I can recall. In the camp there were
George Naylor, Gilbert Webb, Jesse West, John Pitts,
Robert Watson, Jr., George Boyd and many others from
Salt Lake City, as well as men who had come from various
parts of the country. The man who had tried to jump the
claim I had found assumed charge and got the camp
together, intending to make a stand in the brush. I knew
the danger of such a proceeding with seventy-five or eighty
hostile Indian warriors near, so, with my companions, with-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 445

drew to a better position; soon all the camp followed, and
we prepared for defense. The intended claim-jumper,
whose name I am unable to recall, was a partner of Corinth
Lawrence, and requested me to take charge of the funeral
of the dead manv which I did, and he was buried as care-
fully as we could do it. That day I suffered greatly with
my lame limb, and an abscess burst and discharged freely.

Next morning we broke camp and returned home, for
it was not safe to remain there, in a hostile Indian country.
Later in the season, Brower Pettit and Foster Curtis re-
turned to our claim, but it had been seized, and was held
by parties from California. There was a great rush in of
people, and the town of South Pass, or Atlantic City, was
built. The next spring I went out with more men, but' our
claim could not be regained, so we had to'give it up. The
parties who seized it took many thousands of dollars out of
it. The second year, however, the mining boom collapsed.

During the summer and autumn of this year, 1868,
grading for the Union Pacific Railway was going on. I
hauled coal from Coalville to Salt Lake City, and also
hauled tithing produce from Ogden and Logan, taking
produce for pay, so that my family was well supplied with
provisions. On my last trip from Ogden I was caught in a
snowstorm on the sandridge, took a congestive chill, and
almost died on the way. When I reached home I was un-
able to get off my wagon. 1 was cared for by my family,
but suffered greatly, and in addition to the suppuration in
my thigh, the wound bled so as to endanger my life.
Finally, on May 27, 1869, my left limb was amputated
about four inches from the hip joint. The surgeons were
Dr. W. F. Anderson, Dr. H. J. Richards and Dr. J. M.
Bernhisel. Apostles Wilford Woodruff and George Q.
Cannon were present also. The operation which 1 had
objected to for nearly five years became necessary to save
mv life.

446 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

In a few weeks from the time of the amputation I was
able to get out a little, and pruned a few trees. From that
time on I worked, though it was under many difficulties,
till I had pruned my nursery of ten thousand trees, and
had given them necessary care. I was able to be present
at the ceremonies at the entrance of the railway into Salt
Lake City, January 10, 1870. During the succeeding two
years I attended to my nursery, also traveled and lectured
on my experiences and preached as a home missionary,
from Paris, Idaho, on the north, to St. George, Utah, on
the south. In the summer of 187 1, while working in my
orchard, I was overcome by heat, having a slight sunstroke,
some of the effects of which have never left me. Still my
health was better than before my limb was amputated, and
with crutches I got along fairly well.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 447

CHAPTER XL.

CALLED ON A MISSION TO THE UNITED STATES— JOURNEY EASTWARD
—VISIT RELATIVES EN ROUTE— REACH NEW YORK -MEASURED
FOR AN ARTIFICIAL LIMB— HOW IT WAS PAID FOR— VISIT AND
PREACH — MEET POOR ENCOURAGEMENT — GO TO BOSTON —
WORLD'S PEACE JUBILEE— BUNKER HILL— AGAIN AT NEW YORK
—RELEASED TO RETURN HOME— BACK IN UTAH— TRAVELING AND
PREACHING— SENT FOR BY PRESIDENT YOUNG— CALLED ON A
MISSION TO ARIZONA— DIRECTED TO FURNISH NAMES OF OTHERS
—SEND THE LIST— PRESIDENT YOUNG ADDS OTHER NAMES— SET
APART FOR OUR MISSION— DIFFICULT TO COLLECT MONEY DUE
ME— LEAVE MY FAMILY POORLY PROVIDED FOR BUT TRUSTING
IN THE LORD— PLACED IN CHARGE OF THE MISSION— LETTER OF
INSTRUCTIONS— START SOUTH— PEOPLE CONTRIBUTE LIBERALLY
—TRAVELING IN STORM — ARRIVE AT KANAB — IN ARIZONA— A
HARD JOURNEY- MARRIAGE OF MY DAUGHTER— REACH LEE'S
FERRY ON THE COLORADO— CROSSING THE RIVER— REACH MOAN-
COPPY WASH— DECIDE TO WINTER THERE— EXPLORE THE VICIN-
ITY—MEET FRIENDLY INDIANS— BUILDING A HOUSE— EXPLORIXG
THE LITTLE COLORADO— A DIFFICULT TRIP— DESCRIPTION OF
THE ROUTE— FIND A PLACE FOR ANOTHER SETTLEMENT— SAN
FRANCISCO MOUNT AINS— FINE FOREST GROWTH— CAUGHT IN DEEP
SNOW— THROUGH WITH A PERILOUS JOURNEY— DECIDE TO RE-
TURX TO SALT LAKE CITY AND REPORT— HEAVY SNOW— TRIP
HOMEWARD— CORDIALLY GREETED BY PRESIDENT YOUNG— WITH
MY FAMILY.

ON the 8th of April, 1872, at the general conference of
the Church in Salt Lake City, I was called on a mis-
sion to the eastern part of the United States, and hastened
to settle my business preparatory to my departure. At 5
p. m. on May 1st I left Salt Lake City, going by train to
Ogden, and then east. There were about twenty-five other
Elders in the company. My companion in the Pullman car
was Moroni Brown, of Ogden. On reaching Missouri
Valley Junction, Iowa, I stopped over with my brother-
in-law, B. H. Dennis. On May 4th, I went to Calhoun and

448 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

preached in the schoolhouse; returned to Missouri Valley-
Junction on the 6th, preaching in the courthouse. My father
paid the expense of securing the last-named building.

I continued my journey on the 7^, going by way of
Chicago, Philadelphia, Newark and Jersey City, to New
York. There we met with Elder Wm. C. Staines, and on
the 12th went with him to Brooklyn. On the 13th I was
measured at Mr. Hudson's, 696 Broadway, New York, for
an artificial limb. The way I came to do this was through
Leonard Wines, of Salt Lake City. Mr. Wines and I had
been good friends in our younger days. In later years he
had made some money on the mail line west, and meeting
me one day on the train the idea struck him that I ought to
have an artificial leg. The result was that he and some
friends whom he called on raised the necessary amount to
pay for it, which sum he presented to me, telling of his
purpose. Naturally I had a high appreciation of his kind-
ness. It was on May 27th that I received the artificial
limb.

We obtained lodgings with Brother Isaac Elkington
and family, and visited and preached where we could. We
met very little encouragement from the people. On June
13th wre left for Boston on a steamer of the Neptune Line,
going first to Providence, from which place we went by
rail to Boston, and thence to Portsmouth, N. H. At the
latter place I yisited my father-in-law, Thomas Lester.

On the 17th of June we were at the World's Peace
Jubilee, in Boston, and also visited Bunker Hill and mingled
with the vast assemblage there. I paid a visit to the home
of Thomas Lester, Jr., about fifteen miles out from Boston,
on the 18th, and then returned to New York, where, on
the 19th, we met President George A. Smith of the First
Presidency of the Church. He told us we were at liberty
to return home, as the antagonism was so great that there
was no chance to preach the Gospel to the people at that

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 449

time. That evening we filled an appointment at Paterson,
N. J., staying at the home of W. Dover till the 23rd, when
we returned to New York.

Having been released from our mission, owing to the
indifference of the people, we started home the first of July.
For some three years after my return I traveled and preached
as I had done formerly, in southern Idaho, western Wyom-
ing and northern Utah.

On Wednesday evening, September 29, 1875, on re-
turning from a preaching tour in the northern part of Utah
County, I was informed by my family that President Young
had sent for me to do some interpreting in the Navajo lan-
guage. I had met the Navajo Indians going away from his
office, and as I knew my presence was not necessary then,
and as I was quite ill with a nervous headache, I did not go
up till next day.

Going to see President Young, I met him in front of
his office, in his carriage. He said he had wanted me to
talk with the Navajos, but I was too late, for they were
gone, "but," said he, "I knew you had the spirit of it." He
then drove off, and his private secretary, Elder George
Reynolds, invited me into the office, saying the President
wanted to see me particularly on missionary business. At
this I went inside and waited. Soon the President came in
and after speaking to some others who -were waiting for
him, came to me and said, "Oh, Brother James, that 1 could
see you as I have seen you, strong and active! I should
like to send you on a mission to those Indians, for you are
just the man to go there with a few other good men. The
Spirit of the Lord is upon them, and they need a few men
among them who will teach them the truth."

To this statement I replied that I was unable to endure
hardships and exposure as I had done, for my health was
very poor and I was not able to wait on myself in camp
life. I stated, however, that what the Spirit of the Lord

45° LIFE OF A PIONEER.

directed through him I was willing to try to do to the best
of my ability; and added, "You know where to find me; I
am just where I always have been, on hand."

President Young then said, "Bless your soul, the Spirit
does and has dictated to me all the time to send you to take
charge of a mission in that country. You are just the man
for it, and if I had sent you before, we would have had a
mission and settlements there now. I think that if we fit
you up with a good spring wagon or carriage, and some
good brethren to wait on you, that you can go. Just get a
list of names of good men, and hand them to me— a list of
men that will stand by you, but none of your babies. I want
good men to go with you on this mission, so hand me a list
of names."

When the conversation ended, I returned home, and
after much thought and prayer for the guidance of the Lord,
wrote the following names, my own at the head of the list:
Daniel B. Roson, John C. Thompson, Seth B. Tanner,
Morton P. Mortenson, Bengt Jenson, Hans Funk, Ernest
Tietjens and John Davies. The latter got excused, and
President Young added the following: Andrew L. Gib-
bons, Luther C. Burnham, Thales H. Haskell, Ira Hatch,
Warren M.Johnson and William H. Gibbons. These were
called on a mission October 9, 1875, at tne general confer-
ence. On Monday, October nth, we were set apart for
our mission.

I found some difficulty in collecting debts due me, over
a thousand dollars altogether, so that I could not get enough
to fit me out comfortably nor to provide for my family.
Still I was determined to go. When it came to parting
from my family, it was hard to leave them, with only ten
days' supply of fuel and less than fifty pounds of flour in the
house, and not knowing where the next would come from.
It seemed as if they could not endure the separation when
they saw me fitted out so poorly. But I blessed them in

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 45 I

the name of the Lord, and told them that if they would live
their religion they would not suffer so much want when I
was away as if I had stayed home. Then we separated
sorrowfully, and on October 30th I went by train to Provo^
Some of the company had preceded me a day or two. 1
had in the meantime received much personal instruction
from President Young, and was given the following letter:

"Salt Lake City, U. T., October 28, 1875.
"Elder James S. Brown, Salt Lake City :

"Dear Brother: — You are hereby appointed to take
charge of the mission about to go south and southeast of
the Colorado River.

"It will become your duty to found settlements in suit-
able locations, where the brethren can congregate in culti-
vating the earth to bring forth substance for the families of
the brethren who may feel disposed to join you.

"You will work in harmony with other brethren who
are now in the south building up new locations, and will in
all things seek the welfare of those associated with you, and
the building up of the kingdom of God.

"In the formation of settlements, and in all circum-
stances that may arise on your mission, you will seek the
wisdom of the Spirit of the Lord, and be guided by its
whisperings in all things from day to day.

"The brethren with whom you are associated are coun-
seled to act under your directions, that the spirit of union
and concert of action may characterize all your movements.
And we call upon all men unto whom you shall come to aid
and assist you according to their ability in promoting so
good and glorious a cause as settling this rugged new,
country.

"We would counsel you, if you will do it, to sustain
each other as brethren, and work together in the holy order
that God has revealed.

452 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

"We pray God our Heavenly Father to bless and pros-
per you and to make you instrumental in accomplishing
much good to those with whom you are called upon to as-
sociate, and to labor for on this mission, in the name of
Jesus Christ. Amen.

"Your brethren in the Gospel,

"Brigham Young,
"Daniel H. Wells,
"First Presidency of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-
day Saints."

From Provo I got a ride with a team to Spanish Fork,
where, on Sunday, October 31st, I preached to the people,
having great liberty of the Spirit. Then Bishop Snell asked
the people for a contribution and they responded liberally,
raising twenty-two sacks of flour, twenty-six bushels of pota-
toes, and thirteen dollars in money. That night I went on to
Salem and preached, and also received a small donation
from the people. I next went to Payson, where I preached
on Monday evening, and where the people subscribed lib-
erally, so that I had thirty-three dollars in currency, fifty
sacks of flour, and twenty-six bushels of potatoes. Thus
my words to my destitute family were fulfilled, and they
were provided for as well as myself.

At Payson I met some of my missionary companions,
and we moved on southward. Others joined us on the
journey, and on November 9th we reached Salina, where
we pitched our tent and I camped out for the first time on
our trip. At Richfield we received contributions of pro-
visions, and again at Panguitch. Much of our journey be-
tween these two places was in storm — rain and snow — and
was far from comfortable. 'On the 18th we crossed the
rim of the Great Basin. We reached Kanab on the 20th,
where we were joined by the four brethren who had been
called from the southern settlements.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 453

I left Kanab on November 22nd, going to Navajo
Wells. Before leaving Kanab I had telegraphed to Presi-
dent Young, written to my family, and arranged with Bishop
L. ]ohn Nuttall to have our mail sent after us as soon as
possible. At Navajo Wells I joined our party, and next
day we went on to the Buckskin Mountains, making dry
camp that night. On the 24th we reached House Rock
Spring, where we were overtaken with letters from home.

1 had one from my eldest daughter, Lydia Jane, stating that
she was to be married to Homer Manley Brown on Novem-
ber 22nd. It had been arranged before I left home that
the wedding was to take place this month.

We traveled steadily on, the country being dry and for-
bidding. Our beef cattle having run off, Ira Hatch and
Luther C. Burnham went to find them. Burnham brought
them into camp at Badger Creek, on the 26th, but it was

2 o'clock on the morning of the 27th when Ira Hatch got
in from his fruitless search. That day we went on to Lee's
Ferry, on the Colorado River. We had sent two men ahead
to arrange for us to be ferried over the river, but they re-
ported that it was not possible to cross that night. I thought
differently, and as it was Saturday, I determined to get over.
Some of the party objected and some were willing, and this
division delayed our crossing with the wagons till about 10
p. m.; but we were safely over the stream. Next day our
animals were ferried over. At the ferry, Mrs. Lee was out
of provisions, and we helped her to some, and also gave her
ten dollars, of which I contributed two dollars. Next morn-
ing she sent me a Navajo blanket and a cotton handker-
chief.

We left Lee's Crossing on November 29th, and con-
tinued over a dry, rough, difficult road till December 3rd,
when we reached Moancoppy, the pleasantest spot we had
seen since before arriving at Kanab. I was impressed to
make this place winter quarters, and designated a site for

454 L.1FE OF A PIONEER.

a fort. We were all pleased to have a rest from traveling,
as our feed had given out and our stock was sick with the
epizootic. Near this place there were some old Indian
farms and a few stone huts laid up without mortar, but all
had been deserted. There were also some springs near by.

The morning after we had camped there, a small hunt-
ing party of Navajos came in, and after we had given them
their breakfast they smoked their corn-husk cigarettes and
departed. A. S. Gibbons, Ira Hatch and I examined the
country around Moancoppy, and found a few ponds 6f water
and a good place for a reservoir to catch the spring rains;
we also discovered a fertile spot of a few acres, and two
small springs. December 5th was Sunday. We held a
meeting, and all our company, thirteen in number, expressed
themselves as feeling well and zealous in our missions.

On Monday we explored the vicinity, but found nothing
inviting outside the neighborhood of our camp, where we
all were satisfied a missionary station should be built, as it
was the best we could do. We went to work getting tim-
ber and doing other necessary work, my part being to guard
against hostile Indians. T. H. Haskell and Ira Hatch, our
interpreters, went to the Oriba Indian village, some fifty
miles away. On their return they reported all was peace-
ful; they were accompanied by Chief Tuba and his wife
Telassinimki, who were highly pleased to see their old Mor-
mon friends.

On the 8th we laid out 'a house twenty by forty feet
and twelve feet high, to be built of stone. Our beef cattle
having become very wild, we had to kill them and cure the
meai.

J. C. Thompson, 'Ira Hatch, S. B. Tanner, L. C. Burn-
ham and I started on December 9th on an exploring trip up
the Little Colorado River and around the San Francisco
Mountains. When we had gone twelve miles, breaking the
road through the canyon, we were glad to find some pools

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 455

of water, and to rest for the night. Next day we came to
the Little Colorado River from forty to fifty miles above its
mouth. The river bottom was about half a mile wide, and
the water very low. We continued up the river to the Black
Falls, where the stream passes over a ledge of volcanic rock
twelve or fourteen feet high. Four miles farther up it ran
through a very narrow gorge, and we had to pass over the
hills through deep sand, which our team found it very diffi-
cult to cross.

Fifteen miles farther on we came to Grand Falls, where
the river runs over shelving rocks for eighty to a hundred
feet. Higher up the stream the bottoms widened out, in
some places to four miles, the timber was better and the
stream was larger. We killed two antelope and dried the
meat. Our forward journey continued to the old Beel trail,
then on to Sunset Crossing and the old Prescott road. Seven
miles above was a mail station, and there, at 9 o'clock on
the night of Friday, December 17th, the mail carriers met,
and we learned some general news from them. Next day
we traveled fifteen miles farther, to where some Mexican
herders were camped with about four thousand sheep. The
water in the river had improved in quantity and quality, and
the surroundings were such that we felt we could recom-
mend it as a place for settlement. We were also impressed
to return to Moancoppy, and started on that journey on the
19th. We changed our course and took more to the hill
country, heading for the San Francisco Mountains.

The return trip was very hard. We saw plenty of
timber — the finest forest growth I ever beheld. On De-
cember 24th, when crossing the divide between the San
Francisco Mountains and Mount Hendrick, we encountered
a terrific snowstorm, and had ,to camp for the night. Next
day we continued on our way, making slow progress in the
deep snow. We passed below the snow line on a very
rough country, where sometimes, with brake set, it took the

456 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

four of us all we could do to keep the wagon right side up.
We were thankful to reach the river on the 28th and Moan-
coppy on the 29th.

At a brief consultation that day, it was decided that I
should return to Salt Lake City and report to President
Young the result of our explorations. Next day the band-
aging of my artificial leg gave way and T. H. Haskell re-
paired it. On New Year's Day, 1876, J. C. Thompson, W.
H. Gibbons and I set out for Kanab, where we arrived on
January 6th.

I requested Bishop Nuttall to forward me to Order-
ville, which he did. From there Bishop H. O. Spencer
took his team and conveyed me to Panguitch. We met a
heavy snowstorm on the road, the snow on the rim of the
Basin being up to the wagonbox. From Panguitch I wras
forwarded to Monroe, where I telegraphed President Young
that I would be in the city by January 15th. I was ad-
vanced by team from there to the railroad, where a pass
sent by President Young was ready for me, and I arrived
in Salt Lake City and reported to him at 6 p. m. on the
14th. At the railway station I was met by my children and
the neighbors and two vehicles. If I had been President
Young's own son he could not have received me more
cordially than he did when I reached his office. After our
conversation I returned home, where my folks thought I
should have gone first; but they were overjoyed to see me,
as I was to see them, all in good health and well provided
for. We were highly gratified to realize that the Lord had
heard and answered our prayers.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 457

CHAPTER LXI.

ATTEND MEETINGS WITH THE FIRST PRESIDENCY AND APOSTLES— MORE
MISSIONARIES CALLED TO ARIZONA— MANY INQUIRIES REGARDING
THE MISSION— OUTLINE THE ROUTE— PREPARATIONS FOR TRAVEL
—START SOUTH— AIDED BY CONTRIBUTIONS— REACH MOENCOPPY
—MEET LOT SMITH AND COMPANY— BAPTISMS— START FOR THE
LITTLE COLORADO RIVER— GUIDE MISSIONARY COMPANIES TO
THE PLACE WE HAD SELECTED FOR SETTLEMENT— LOT SMITH
REFUSES TO ACKNOWLEDGE MY APPOINTMENT FROM PRESIDENT
YOUNG AS PRESIDENT OF THE MISSION— HE ASSUMES LEADER-
SHIP AT THE NEW SETTLEMENT— I RETURN WITH MY PARTY TO
MOENCOPPY— OTHER COMPANIES OF MISSIONARY SETTLERS SUS-
TAIN MY PRESIDENCY— MY HEALTH IS POOR— SETTLERS DISCOUR-
AGED—CHEER THEM UP— WORK OF FRONTIER LIFE— SUCCOR A
COMPANY WHOSE WATER SUPPLY IS EXHAUSTED— TAKING UP
LAND— MAKE A LONG EXPLORING TRIP— INTRODUCE BOOK OF
MORMON TO NAVAJOS— RETURN TO MOENCOPPY— INDIANS DIS-
SATISFIED—GO TO SALT LAKE CITY WITH A DELEGATION OF NA-
VAJO CHIEFS— THEIR SUPPOSED GRIEVANCES SETTLED-TELL
PRESIDENT YOUNG I HAVE COME HOME TO STAY— HE SENDS ME
OUT AGAIN— DIRECTED TO PROCURE VOLUNTEERS— LETTER OF
INSTRUCTIONS— LECTURE, AND TAKE UP CONTRIBUTIONS— RE-
TURN HOME— MY FAMILY ILL— PROVIDE SUPPLIES FOR THEM—
CONDITIONS IMPROVE.

MY stay at home lasted till January 30, 1876. I at-
tended several meetings with the First Presidency,
the Twelve Apostles, and other leading brethren in the
Church. They were consulting as to the best means of
colonizing that part of Arizona we had been exploring, and
two hundred missionaries were called to go there and settle
the country. Scores of visitors also came to my house to
inquire regarding my travels and the place where I had
been. I went over to Apostle John Taylor's house on in-
vitation, and there George Goddard reported our conversa-
tion, as I was requested to outline the route to Arizona,

29 1

45^ LIFE OF A PIONEER.

which outline was afterwards published in the Deseret
News. During my stay I also made a brief visit to Ogden.

As the time drew near for me to start south again,
President Young loaned me a team and light wagon to
travel with. He also advised me to find a boy about six-
teen years old to go with and wait on me. I was thinking
of how I should follow this counsel, when John Reid-
head, who was one of those called to the Arizona mission,
came in and proffered his son — an offer I was pleased to
accept. On Friday, January 28, Brother Reidhead and son
started south with my team and baggage.

Early on the morning of Sunday, January 30, I took
leave of my family, and went by train to Spanish Fork,
making an appointment at Springville as I passed. I was
met at the station at Spanish Fork, and conveyed to the
meetinghouse, where I addressed the congregation. That
evening I returned to Springville and filled the appointment
there. Next morning I was met by Brother Reidhead and
son, and proceeded to Payson. I had had raised for me,
by subscription, a span of small mules, so I sent back Presi-
dent Young's team and harness, and went on my journey,
preaching almost every evening in one or other town on
the way. We were treated very kindly. Our route lay
through Fillmore, Beaver, Parowan, Cedar City, Toquer-
ville, and on to Kanab, which we reached February 23,
finding Bishop Nuttall quite ill. We made our home at
Bishop Levi Stewart's.

On March 2nd we set out from Kanab, and reached
Moencoppy on the 8th, where we found all well. The
building constructed by the settlers was so far completed
as to protect us comfortably from storm and cold; and a
dam had been constructed, with a water ditch three miles
long, giving us quite a reservoir. Plowing also had been
begun, though the weather was very disagreeable.

On the nth, J. C. Thompson and A. S. Gibbons went

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 459

to meet Lot Smith and a company coming from Utah. On
Sunday, the 12th, we held meeting, and a young man
named Franklin D. Gillespie, who had fallen in with us,
desired to be baptized into the Church, as did Ly and his
wife, two of the Oriba Indians. The ordinance was attended
to, and I also ordained the chief, Tuba, a Priest.

During the next three days I arranged affairs of the
company, some of the men being directed to locate springs,
to act as guides to the companies coming, attend to our
mail, etc., and on the 15th, with S. B. Tanner, Ira Hatch,
and J. B. Reidhead, set out with six mules and a light
wagon to search a road for vehicles between Moencoppy
and the Oriba village. Hans Funk and E. Tietjens, with
a four-horse team, went to the top of the hill to haul water
for our animals, and from there our party proceede'd along
the Indian trail three or four miles, then struck out over
the trackless, sandy plain, to avoid rugged buttes and deep
gulches that rendered the trail impracticable for wagons.
We went on about fourteen miles, and camped in the sand;
I was quite ill.

Next day we traveled about twenty-five miles in a
southeasterly direction, over sandhills and up a long wash,
to a divide, where we made dry camp. We met four hunt-
ing parties, and two of the hunters camped with us. The
following morning we went on seven miles, to the pools of
water where the Oribas were camped with their flocks of
sheep and goats. Each flockmaster stood guard over his
animals, for his turn to get at the pools. We passed on
three miles to the Oriba village, located on the crest of a
steep bluff. The houses were built close together, and
there were about five hundred inhabitants. Those Indians
obtained all their water from a well about a mile distant,
and the carrying of the precious liquid was going on day
and night, while the Indians were praying continually for
more water.

460 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Leaving the Oriba village, we proceeded onward over
a rough and sandy country, reaching the Mohave Springs,
where the Hopees water their stock, on the 18th. That
night we experienced a fearful windstorm. On the 20th
we came to the Little Colorado River, and on the 23rd
arrived at the place selected on my first trip for a settle-
ment. Between this time and my previous visit five houses
had been built there, so our purpose was interfered with a
little. Next day we chose a place for the pioneer camp,
and S. B. Tanner and I started back to meet the company
from Utah which was to occupy the locality as a settlement,
and which had been following us closely. We met the
newcomers that day, and returned to the site that had been
chosen.

It was at this place that the first disagreement in the
expedition occurred. Captains Smith, Lake and Allen had
charge of three sections of the company. I invited them
and others to a meeting to consult over what should be
done, and there presented to them my letter of instructions
from President Young and my appointment as president of
the mission. Captain Lot Smith opposed my presidency,
and Captains Lake and Allen failed to give me support.
Things were not pleasant, and the meeting was dismissed.
Next day matters in camp were in a rather confused con-
dition.

The succeeding day was Sunday, March 26th. Lot
Smith called a meeting, and invited me to speak. I re-
counted what we had done in searching out and selecting
this place for settlement, and welcomed the company to it;
I also gave information and instruction concerning the
country. When I finished, Lot Smith assumed charge of
the meeting, and paid no further attention to me. Next
day I invited him, and also Major Ladd, to take a walk
with me. They came, and I asked Brother Smith what he
intended doing. He replied that he was going ahead inde-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 461

pendent of me. I told him he had insulted me and trampled
upon my God-given right, through President Young, who
had appointed me to preside over the Arizona mission, and
if he would persist in doing wrong he must bear the re-
sponsibility. He was very defiant, so we separated. I
called Brother G. Lake, who had informed me that Lot
Smith seemed to think he was in charge of the companies
but he (Lake) knew it was my place and would sustain
me. I told him he had betrayed my confidence, for when it
came to the test he had failed to keep his word. I advised
him to think the matter over, and as I had decided to return
at once to Moencoppy, our party bade good-bye to the new-
comers, and we started. This was on March 27th.

On the 3o:h we reached the lower crossing of the
river, and camped, the stream being too much swollen to
cross. S. B. Tanner shot a deer, and by about five hours
later he and the others brought in two more deer — a valu-
able addition to our stock of provisions. By Saturday,
April 1st, the river had fallen, and other companies having
come up, we crossed and held a meeting. Next day another
meeting was convened, and I called David E. Fullmer to
return with us, which he did. In a meeting held at the old
Arizona camp on April 4th, at which there was a large
number of those who had recently come from Utah, my
letter of instructions from President Young was read, and
the brethren unanimously sustained me as president of the
mission. Our party continued the journey, and after much
toil reached Moencoppy settlement on April 7th. I was
quite ill at this time.

We continued the work necessary to establishing a
settlement, but there were so many difficulties that some
of our company, which had been increased by additions
from Utah, began to feel discouraged. I admonished and
cheered them, causing them to feel better. We also
arranged for some of the company, in charge of S. B.

462 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Tanner, to go up the Little Colorado River and secure
twenty-three land claims for us. This party started on
Monday, April 17th. On the 22nd a Brother Phillips came
from Moencoppy and said a small company had reached
there without water, and that their teams were so exhausted
that they could not travel longer than about noon. We
comprehended their suffering condition, gathered all the
barrels and kegs we had, and filled them with water —
about one hundred gallons — and Brothers Roson and
Thompson went to their relief. I then made out some
notices to put up, giving instructions so that other compan-
ies should not be caught in the same predicament as this
one had been.

From time to time our numbers were augmented by
additions from Utah, many having come in and located at
the places we had selected. Among those who joined us at
Moencoppy was my son-in-law, H. O. Fullmer, and my
daughter, Rachel E. On the 17th of May the members of
our settlement proceeded up the river to where S. B. Tan-
ner and party had taken up land for us. There was some
dissatisfaction in the company, but after prayerfully con-
sidering the situation all was made right. Then, on May
19th, Brothers Tanner, Haskell and I started on an explor-
ing trip. We were gone till July 3rd, and traveled several
hundred miles, going north and east through the country of
the Navajos, the Moquis and the Zunis. We saw the vil-
lages of each, and also many ancient ruins. We passed
over some good country, but much of it was very rough,
and our trip was an arduous one.

While on this journey we were traveling along the Rio
Perco, a tributary of the Rio Grande del Norte, when, on June
17th, as we were following a trail through a forest, an In-
dian stepped out from the edge of the undergrowth, held
up his hand, and said: "Stop! Who are you, where do you

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 463

come from, where are you going, and what is your busi-
ness in the Navajo country?"

"We are Mormons from Utah," was our response, in
Spanish, the language in which our interrogator had
spoken.

"Stop your wagon under this tree," continued he, in-
dicating a place, "and talk to us; for we hear the Mormons
have the history of our forefathers. The Americans and
Spaniards say you claim this, but we know they often speak
falsely, and we wish to learn from your own lips whether
you have such a record, and how you came by it. We
want you to stop here till our people come together, and
you can tell us the truth."

By this time another Indian had presented himself.
We turned aside as ordered, and the first Navajo said to
the newcomer: "Show these men where water is."

Seth B. Tanner and Thales H. Haskell unhitched our
team, and led them to drink, the Indian going as guide. I
was asked to get out of the wagon, and as I was doing so
a large number of Indians appeared, coming from all direc-
tions. Almost before I realized it, there were two hundred
and fifty to three hundred Navajos there, men, women and
children. My chair was taken out of the wagon, a blanket
was spread for me, and I sat down, the Indians sitting close
around. Two chiefs, whom I learned were Juan San Juall
and Jualito, sat as near to me as they could, and one of
them said, "If you have the book of our forefathers, tell us
about God and them, and how you came by the book."

I produced a copy of the Book of Mormon, told
them it was a record of God's dealings with their fore-
fathers, and explained to them how it was revealed to the
Prophet Joseph Smith by an angel. As I proceeded to
tell what was in the Book of Mormon, tears came to the
eyes of many in the audience, and some of them ?poke out,
"We know that what you say is true, for the traditions of

464 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

our good old men who never told a lie agree with your
story. Our forefathers did talk with God, and they wrote;
and when they became wicked and went to war they hid
up their records, and we know not where they are."

At this point the chiefs and about ten other leading
men rose up and embraced me, saying, "Continue to tell us
of God and our forefathers, for it does our hearts good to
hear of them."

I talked on for a time, and when I was through,
Messrs. Tanner and Haskell, who had listened to what had
been going on, bore witness that what I had said was true.
We remained with the Indians for dinner, and they wanted
us to stay longer, but we felt that it was better to proceed on
our journey. This meeting, one of the most sudden and
singular in my experience, occurred in New Mexico, about
thirty miles north of the old mail route from Albuquerque
westward. When it was over we continued our journey
south and west, turned west to Fort Wingate, then on to
Fort Defiance, and through the Moquis villages to our
settlement.

On the day of our return to Moencoppy, July 3rd,
Brothers Roson and Thompson came to meet us with
barrels of water — a relief that we appreciated greatly. We
were highly pleased to learn that all was well in the settle-
ment.

Soon after this I released two of the missionaries till
October 1st, to visit their families in Utah, and five others
till Notember 1st, for the same purpose. During July and
the early part of August we were engaged in tending and
gathering crops, and the work incident to establishing a
settlement, which was by no means easy. We also visited
and endeavored to keep on good terms with the Indians,
and for ourselves did so; but there were some of the Nava-
jos who seemed bent on making trouble, and who com-
plained that the settlers on the Little Colorado had taken

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 465

some of their animals. Finally, on August 6th, we received
word from the Indian council that a delegation of chiefs
would meet with us in three days, to accompany some of
us on a visit to the "Mormon Chief," to settle the alleged
grievances. Ira Hatch and I set out that same evening to
meet the delegation. I took very ill, and it was only
through the best care and with great effort that I could
travel, but we were determined not to disapppint the In-
dians. I received marked attention from Ira Hatch, also
from J. D. Lee and wife at the Moenabbey, and in a few
hours was able to move around again as usual. We met
the Indians, and made the journey north, reaching Salt
Lake City on the evening of August 22nd, the Indians
being lodged at D. B. Huntington's for the night.

Next day President Young met the delegation in his
schoolhouse, and talked over the supposed wrongs of the
Mormon settlers to the Navajos — for they were only sup-
posed, as it turned out. I acted as interpreter, using the
Spanish language. Efforts had been made to find some
other interpreter who could talk the Navajo dialect, but in
vain. Everything was made satisfactory to the red men,
who remained in Salt Lake City four days. At this time
a delegation of Shoshones from Bear River came with
George Hill as interpreter, and these met the Navajos and
the two tribes "buried the hatchet." Then the Navajos
received a few presents and returned to their homes.

I had a conversation with President Young, in which
I told him I had come from Arizona not to return unless he
ordered me to do so. A few days later he met me and said
he had been thinking over my mission. He intended to
press onward in settling Arizona and New Mexico, and as
I knew what that country was, he thought I had better
travel through Utah and lecture on the prospects of the
work in the southern mission, and also call for volunteers
to accompany me in returning to Arizona. He told rme

466 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

further that I was to take up collections among the Saints for
the support of myself and family, and for an outfit for my-
self. In pursuance of these instructions he gave me a letter
to the Bishops and other authorities. This document men-
tioned my missionary labors in Arizona, said I was directed
to lecture among the Saints on the mission work and take
up contributions, and counseled the authorities to render
me assistance in harmony with the call made of me. It
closed as follows:

"Brother Brown is also authorized to receive the names-
of those who are willing or desirous of helping to build up
the Kingdom of God in that region. We learn that the
brethren are discovering new and desirable valleys in the
neighborhood of their present settlements, and elsewhere,,
and it is our intention to keep pushing out and onward as-
fast as prudence and the whisperings of the Spirit of the
Lord shall dictate.

"We desire the active co-operation of our brethren in
this important work, and shall be pleased to receive a
goodly list of volunteers through Brother Brown, consist-
ing of men who love the Gospel, have faith in the promises
of the Father, and have the integrity, determination and
zeal of true Latter-day Saints. We have no fear that too
many will respond to this invitation, as the rich valleys-
south and east of the Colorado offer homes for hundreds-
of those who desire to extend the curtains of Zion in that
direction.

"We are informed that some of the brethren entertain
the idea that it is better to be called by the authorities to
such missions than to volunteer. To such we will quote
the saying of the Lord to the Prophet Joseph Smith, as-
contained in the Doctrine and Covenants: 'He that waiteth
to be commanded in all things is a slothful servant.'

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 467

"Ever praying for the welfare of Israel, I remain your
brother in the Gospel,

"Brigham Young."

This letter was dated September 16, 1876.

Soon afterward I went as directed, traveling and lec-
turing in northern Utah, with a visit to Almy, Wyoming;
then worked my way southward in the various counties, to
Richfield. I lectured sixty-five times, and secured about
eighty volunteers, mostly from Sevier County. Ira Hatch
came up with me and at Richfield we separated, he taking
my team and going to Kanab, and I returning home to pro-
vide for my family and then rejoin him at the town last
named. I found several of my family quite ill, and there
had been one death — my Aunt Polly, who died on Christ-
mas day, a few days before my arrival home.

The opening of the year 1877 found me with my fam-
ily, who soon began to amend in health. I was also able
to supply them fairly well with what they needed for sus-
tenance during my absence, as the Bishops and Saints
whom I had visited had been very kind and liberal, in re-
sponse to the invitation of President Young to promote
the interests of the southern mission by rendering assist-
ance to me so I could proceed to that field of labor.

468 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

CHAPTER LXIL

AGAIN IX ARIZONA— SETTLING DIFFICULTIES AMONG THE PEOPLE— OUR
RESERVOIR BURSTS— NEWS OF NOTABLE EVENTS— PREPARE TO
REPEL AN INDIAN RAID— INDIANS QUARREL, AND THE TROUBLE
PASSES OVER— FUNERAL AT MOENCOPPY— EXPLORING TRIP TO THE
SOUTHEAST— A WHITE INDIAN CHILD— MEET THE HEAD CHIEF
OF THE NAVAJOS— HIS ADDRESS, AND PROPOSITION TO ACCOM-
PANY ME TO SALT LAKE CITY— AGREE ON A DATE FOR THE
JOURNEY"— CONTINUE MY TRIP OVER INTO NEW MEXICO, THEN
RETURN TO MOENCOPPY— ACCUSATION AGAINST ME DISPROVED—
INDIANS GATHER TO GO TO SALT LAKE CITY— MAKE THE TRIP—
AT PRESIDENT YOUNG'S DEATHBED— VISIT OF THE INDIANS -
HONORABLE RELEASE FROM MY MISSION— RESUME HOME MIS-
SIONARY" LABORS— IN PRISON FOR CONSCIENCE SAKE.

MY stay at home was brief, and the 26th of January,
1877, found me again at Kanab, ready to proceed
southward. Three days later the start was made, and on
the morning of February 5th we reached Moencoppy. The
people there were in poor spirits, and considerably dissatis-
fied. During my absence they had sowed about fourteen
acres of fall grain and had built eight log rooms. On my
arrival, A. S. Gibbons made complaint against S. B. Tan-
ner, for they had had a disagreement. Tanner was found
to be in error, and made the matter right.

This trouble settled, the work of plowing and planting
and setting out trees, was proceeded with. Friendly Nav-
ajo and Oriba Indians visited us, and as the United Order
was being preached to the Church at that time, I gave my
views on the subject in an address at the Thursday even-
ing meeting, March 8th. Again on Sunday, the nth, I
preached to the Saints, telling them plainly the wrong that
was in their neglect of duty and disaffection. My remarks

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 469

had quite a salutary effect, and matters moved more
smoothly.

Shortly after midnight on the morning of March 23rd,
the message was brought that our reservoir had given
way. We hurried out, but had to wait till daylight before
we could do effective work in repairing the dam. In the
meantime the Indians were greatly excited because the
water was injuring their crops, and we had to pacify the
red men as best we could, and make good the damage.
Two days after this my daughter, Mrs. Fullmer, became a
mother, and I rendered her necessary care and attention.

On March 31st we received mail with the news of the
result of the presidential election, when Hayes and Tilden
were the candidates, also of Amasa M. Lyman's death, and
of John D. Lee being sentenced to be shot. On April 4th
we received tidings of Lee's execution.

Our time was well occupied now with the work around
the settlement; I also engaged in studying the Navajo lan-
guage, preparatory to an extended visit among those In-
dians. All went well till May 8th, when I learned that the
Piute Indians intended to steal our animals. Chief Patnish
was dead, and his people were angry. For the first time
in the history of the mission, we called out a guard, gath-
ered our animals and property, and provided against a raid
on the part of the savages. We were assisted by some
friendly Navajos. At our inspection we ascertained that we
could fire eighty-five shots without stopping to reload. On
the 17th, two Piute Indians came in and informed us that
a council had been held to discuss the raid on us, but the
vote was six to five against molesting us, and the council
broke up in a fight. The five Indians who were in favor
of attacking us started to seek the assistance of the Ute
Indians, while the others came to our side. A week later
we had a talk with some of the Piutes, and the threatened
trouble was averted.

470 LIKE OF A PIONEER.

A funeral occurred in the settlement on May 27th —
that of Minty, the little daughter of W. J. Johnston. I
preached the funeral sermon. For some time previous to
and after this occasion my health was quite poor. On June
1st we had another Indian scare, and made ready for attack,
but the alarm was without sufficient cause.

Before this time several of our company had endeav-
ored to learn the Navajo language, but met with little suc-
cess; so I determined to study the Indian language and
customs myself, that I might be able to talk freely with the
red men. Accordingly, on June 4th, I went up the Moen-
coppy Wash to Chief Hustelso's camp, about twenty-five
miles. It was arranged that I should be left there alone,
except that Ira Hatch's eight-year old girl was to stay with
and wait on me. The Indian camp was located two or
three miles from where George A. Smith, Jr. was killed
some years before, probably by the same Indians.

H. O. Fullmer and Ira Hatch went with me, and eight
Navajos assisted in letting my wagon down into the Wash,
where I was left. The bed of the stream was perhaps
three thousand feet below the plain above on the north
side, while the cliffs on the south towered up almost per-
pendicularly about five thousand feet. The Indian camp
was in the deep recess, the descent into which was both
difficult and dangerous. A wagon could not be drawn
down or up by team, but for a thousand feet or so had to
be lowered from one cliff to another with ropes. In one
place the Indians had cut eighteen steps, to enable them to
get their animals up and down; and then occasionally a
horse would go over and be killed.

In this place the first night gave me a decidedly lone-
some feeling. Chief Hustelso was friendly, but not so his
people, except a few old men. The young men were very
surly, and would not talk. Some of them were shooting
arrows, and I tried to be friendly and proposed to

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 47 1

■shoot with them, but three of the young braves drew their
bows on me, as if intending to kill me. I made no head-
way that night, and 1 realized the gloominess that had pre-
vented my companions remaining there and learning to
speak the Navajo tongue. The next day or two I was
threatened and illtreated, the burrs taken off my wagon,
and I was subjected to other annoyances. The little girl
with me did fairly well, for, being a half-breed Indian her-
self, she affiliated with the Indian children without diffi-
culty.

Then the Indians became less offensive in their con-
duct day by day, and I learned rapidly to converse with
them, and began to experience kindness at their hands.
Several strange Indians came from a considerable distance
to see me, and on June 12th, about three hundred and fifty
Navajos gathered around to hear me tell them of the Book
of Mormon, its discovery and contents. Book in hand I
related to them the story of the volume being the history of
their forefathers. Some laughed at me and others asked
most searching questions, which I was able to answer sat-
isfactorily in their own dialect.

Then came the inquiry, '-If it is our book, how did you
get it? Did you steal it?" I was getting pretty well puz-
zled, owing to my imperfect acquaintance with the Navajo
language. I told them that the book was obtained in the
east, about so many days' journey off. But I could not ex-
plain to them that it was in a stone box in the Hill Cumo-
rah, and that the writings were on gold plates, for I did not
know what terms to use to convey my meaning. One In-
dian told me the book could not have lasted so long as I
said, because paper would decay, he knew that. In order
to learn what hill was, I made a small hill of sand, and by
comparison with the mountains and much explanation I
learned the word for hill.

I had noticed, almost up to the plateau above, some

472 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

slate rock; and after great difficulty I managed to climb
and get several pieces of slate down, being aided by the
little girl. Then I improvised a stone box, set it in the
sand hill, placed the book therein, and thus ascertained how
to say stone box, in Navajo, and explained that the record
was deposited therein. 1 was almost beaten 10 tell of gold
plates, for I did not know the words to use. At last I be-
thought me of a brass suspender buckle, and pointed out
that what I was referring to was like that, but was not that;
and a little piece was worth several silver dollars. Then
one Indian recognized what I wanted to say, and gave me
the word for gold, on the coins of which he had seen small
letters. I was thus able to explain that the record was on
plates of gold; but the way I learned to do it was one of
the marvelous experiences of my life, and illustrates the
difficulties I had to meet in learning the Navajo language.

When I reached the point of telling how the Book of
Mormon plates were preserved and obtained, my audience
was quite in touch with me, and they rejoiced and wept
while I told them further of its contents. From that time
no friendship was too great for me, and before my depart-
ure I spent a day, by invitation, viewing Indian sports.
By June 20, I was through at Hustelso's camp and ready
for a journey of exploration which had been planned.

On June 21st our exploring party, consisting of six
persons, including my son-in-law and his wife and child,
started- on a trip, the general direction of travel being a
little south of east. Our journey led us through some good
country, and some that was very rough. We went a short
distance into New Mexico, and obtained considerable knowl-
edge of the country and its inhabitants, there being many
Indian villages, houses and farms on the route we traveled.
As we were crossing over a broad mesa, on June 27, after
passing the Fort Defiance road, we met with a strange
person among the people. This was a fullblood Indian

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 473

girl seven or eight years of age, with white hair, blue eyes,
and skin as fair as the fairest white person.

Next day we reached the camp of Pal Chil Clane, a
Navajo chief at whose place a council had been appointed.
From there a messenger was dispatched to Totoso-ne-
Huste, the head chief of the Navajo nation. On the even-
ing of the following day that chief arrived in the camp.

A consultation was held on June 29th with the chieftain,
at which we informed him of our desire to settle the country,
to teach the Indians the Gospel, and to aid in improving
their general condition; we also told of the Book of Mor-
mon, a record of the Indians' forefathers, which had been
made known. The chief responded that it was a depart-
ure from his usual rule to come and see the white men.
Before this, they always had come to him, or he had sent
good men to meet the government agents and others. This
also had been his custom with the Mormons up to that oc-
casion. Among other things he said:

"When I heard that you had come, I quit work and
came to'see you. My heart is glad at the meeting with
you, and that I see your wagon there, and the brush shade
that your men have built. Stop here four days, and many
of our best men will come and talk to you, for a great many
of our people want to go and see the Mormons. We shall
have a big talk and know what to do. We are glad that
you come among us as friends, that you are making a road
through our country, and that you have built houses at
Moencoppy. We want to live with you in peace and let
your animals eat grass in peace. But water is scarce in this
country, there is barely enough for our numerous flocks and
increasing people, and our good old men do not want your
people to build any more houses by the springs; nor do we
want you to bring flocks to eat the grass about the springs.
We want to live by you as friends. I sent some good men
with you last year, and they say you talked one talk all the

30

474 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

time.* The great Mormon father he talked straight all the
time. I think that a good road to travel in. I have had
two daughters prisoners among the Apaches for many years
but have never left my home to search for them, for I love
my home and my people, and I do not love to travel. I have
sent good and true men to search for my children, and have
appealed to the American captains in different places, yet
my daughters have not been brought back. I am an old man
now, and it is hard for me to travel long roads, but I wish
to see the Mormons and my father their captain. 1 am in-
clined to go with you. I want twenty-five or thirty men to
go with me, and one or two women, to see your women and
learn how they do. I am much pleased to see you and your
daughter and her baby. I want to see more of your people.
The Americans and your people differ in religion. The
Mormons say their captain talks with God (Pagocheda),
and Americans say God does not talk to men. We do not
know what to believe. When God talks to us, then we
shall know. Until then we want to live as friends."

After our talk we separated, he promising to return in
three days. He came, and I accompanied him to a Navajo
religious feast, where I was introduced to thirteen chiefs
and over two hundred other Navajo Indians. This was on
July 2nd. It was decided that some of them would go to
see the Mormons, and be at Moencoppy in thirt}7-eight days.
Then we bade the Indians good-by, and proceeded on our
journey, going over into New Mexico, and back to Moen-
coppy, where we arrived on July 15th. There were quite
a number of Navajos, Piutes and Hopees there, and I had
to talk with them and three Mexicans till quite late.

A week later, on July 22nd, I declined to administer
the sacrament, owing to the feeling of dissatisfaction among
the people. A. S. Gibbons and M. P. Mortensen circulated
reports against me, that I had used provisions contributed
to the mission, and I had a full investigation made; this

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 475

•showed that the accusation was entirely wrong. Other
•meetings were held subsequently, and the ill feeling that had
arisen was dispensed with. The mission affairs then pro-
ceeded smoothly again.

It was on the morning of August 8th that the Navajo
Indian delegation began to assemble for the journey north,
Totoso-ne-Huste among the number, and by the ioth all
were ready for the start. The journey was a hard one much
of the way, but when we got among the settlements in Utah
we were well treated, and the Indians highly pleased. We
reached Salt Lake City August 28, i377-

The next day I visited President Young. He was very
•ill, and I merely called to see him. The great pioneer and
prophet who had done so much for the opening up and
settlement of the Great West was on his deathbed. The
magnificent work of his life was over. In half an hour
after I left his room, the noble spirit passed from his body,
and he slept in death, awaiting the resurrection morn.

On the evening of August 29, the Deseret News pub-
lished the following regarding the Navajo delegation and
myself :

"Indian Delegation. — Last evening Elder James S.
Brown arrived from the south with a delegation of Navajo
Indians, one of whom is a woman, the first female Navajo,
•we believe, that has ever visited this part of the country.
Garanu Namunche, or Totoso-ne-Huste, the former being
his Spanish and the latter his Indian name, is at the head
of the party. He is, in fact, the head chief of the Navajo
nation. He is accompanied by two other leading men,
Honeco, brother of the former, and Esclepelehen, son of
the same. In June last Elder Brown and a party of breth-
ren visited the northeastern part of Arizona and the north-
western portion of New Mexico, and found a strong spirit
of inquiry among the Navajos relative to the Mormon people,
their methods of farming, manufacturing, and in relation to

476 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

their institutions generally. These inquiries were incited
by the report of the Navajo delegation which visited this
city a year ago, and these composing the one now here
have come to see, hear and examine for themselves, that
they may be witnesses of the same things. Brother Brown
and party held a council with the Indians at the camp of
Pal Chil Clane, about two hundred men of the tribe being
present on the occasion, including Totoso-ne-Huste, the
leading chief already mentioned. It was then that the lat-
ter proposed to pay the present visit. Manlete, or Pahada
Pahadane, is the wrar chief of the nation, but in the estima-
tion of the tribe is second in rank to Toto^o-ne-Huste, al-
though the whites, or "Americans," recognize the war
chief as the head. The delegation are stopping at the
house of Brother Brown, and have been visiting the lead-
ing places of interest in the city today. Elder Brown pur-
poses taking them north to Bear River on Monday."

On August 30th, the Indians and I met Daniel H. Wells,
who had been counselor to President Young in the First
Presidency. At that interview President Wells told me I
had performed a great and good work, and to ask me to
return to Arizona was too much to require of me. I was
therefore honorably released from that mission. Sub-
sequently I received a formal release from President
John Taylor, who succeeded to the presidency of the
Church.

After the funeral of President Young, which was held
on September 2nd, I accompanied the Indians as far south
as Gunnison, Sanpete County, on their way home. There
I bade them goodbye, and returned northward, to resume
my missionary labors, traveling and lecturing among the
settlements in Utah, southern Idaho, and western Wy-
oming. I also purchased a tract of. eighty acres of land on
the Redwood Road, in the western part of Salt Lake City,
and worked on that in the spring and summer, traveling

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 477

and preaching in the autumn and winter as President Young
had directed me to do.

Thus my time was occupied till the spring of 1892
with the exception of the months of March, April and May,
1888. With a firm conviction that plurality of wives wras
a law of God, I had entered into that relationship honorably
with a sincere purpose to follow the right. My family
were united with me in accepting this union as of the high-
est, holiest, most sacred character in the sight of the Most
High. I could not feel to cast aside my wives whom I had
married under these conditions, and therefore, on March
12, 1888, I was sentenced to prison on a charge of unlaw-
ful cohabitation, the legal term applied to living with more
than one wife, the law being specially directed at one of the
religious practices of the Latter-day Saints. The judgment
pronounced against me was three months' imprisonment in
the penitentiary and to pay a fine of one hundred dollars and
costs, which amounted in my case to twenty-seven dollars
and fifty cents. I paid the fine and served the term, less
the time allowed for good behavior, and was released May
28, 1888, having been in prison two months and sixteen
days.

As was the case with other Mormons in my position,
our offense was not looked upon even by non-Mormons ac-
quainted with the circumstances as containing the element
of crime; but our incarceration was in fact an imprisonment
for conscience sake, that being the position in which the
law found us. A term in the penitentiary under those con-
ditions and at that time, while a severe hardship, especially
upon one in my state of health, was by no means a moral
disgrace, since those who had to endure it were of the bet-
ter class of men, whose uprightness, honor, integrity and
sincerity were beyond question in the community where
their lives were an open book.

478 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

CHAPTER LXIII.

VISITED BY PRESIDENT JOSEPH F. SMITH— CALLED ON ANOTHER MIS-
SION TO THE SOCIETY ISLANDS -PREPARE TO RESPOND— A BLESS-
ING BY APOSTLE LORENZO SNOW— APPOINTED TO PRESIDE OYER
THE SOCIETY ISLANDS MISSION— ATTEMPTS TO DISCOURAGE ME-
FROM UNDERTAKING THE JOURNEY— SURPRISE PARTY BY MY
CHILDREN— FAREWELL RECEPTION IN THE WARD HALL— START
ON MY MISSION, ACCOMPANIED BY MY SON AND OTHERS WHO
HAD BEEN CALLED— VOYAGE TO TAHITI— MADMAN ON BOARD
THE VESSEL— AT MARQUESAS ISLANDS— STRANGE CHARACTERS-
TATTOOED WHITE MAN — HIS PECULIAR CAREER —CATCHING
SHARKS— ARRIVE AT PAPEETE— MY RECEPTION THERE— MEET
NATIVE JOSEPHITE PREACHERS, WHO SEEM CONFUSED— ELDERS
FROM UTAH GREET US— TN POOR HEALTH.

ON March 30, 1892, President Joseph F. Smith called
at my residence in Salt Lake City* and handed me a
letter written by an Elder who was on the island of Tahiti.
At the same time President Smith asked me how I would
like to take another mission to the Society Islands, in the
South Pacific Ocean. I told him I did not wish any man
to call me on a mission — that my health was not good, and
such a journey as he suggested was a big undertaking for
one in my condition. He replied that he would leave the
letter for me to read, and would call the next day to learn
what I thought of it. He came according to appointment,
and informed me that the First Presidency wanted me to
undertake the mission. I replied that when properly called
I was not afraid to go, as I had faith that God would not
require of any man more than he would have the ability to
do if he were faithful. The day following this conversa-
tion I visited the First Presidency and learned that they
were a unit in requesting me to go to the Society Islands.
From this time I began to settle my affairs to meet the

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 479

call. On April 8th, I was set apart for the mission, Elder
Francis M. Lyman being mouth in the blessing. On the
15th, I went to Ogden on business, and while on the train
met Apostle Lorenzo Snow, who told me he felt the spirit
of prophecy. He said that the mission I was going on
should be one of the greatest I had ever performed; that I
would prosper therein and be blessed with more power and
influence than ever before; that the Lord would be with
me to sustain and comfort me, and that my family should
be provided for. As he spoke I felt a. thrill of testimony
through my whole' being. When he concluded he took
from his pocket two five-dollar gold pieces, remarking that
he had been a missionary himself, and insisted that I
should take the money, keep it till I got in a close place,
and then use it, which I did.

On April 22nd I received at President Woodruff's
office a letter of appointment to preside over the Society
Islands Mission, which included the Society and Tuamotu
groups, comprising from eighty to one hundred islands and
an area of about fifteen hundred square miles. About this
time I had many visitors, a considerable number of whom
expressed surprise at my being appointed to such a mission
at my time of life and in my condition; for 1 was sixty-four
years of age and walked on crutches and one foot, as I had
to abandon my artificial limb in Arizona, owing to the in-
tense pain it caused me. One man said that he would not
go in my situation for ten thousand dollars. But ihese dis-
couraging remarks did not raise a doubt in my mind of the
propriety of the call.

On the 24th of April I was engaged in writing,
when my children and grandchildren to the number of
sixty-five burst in upon me in a surprise party. We had a
happy time and I gave them a father's blessing. Then we
repaired to the Seventeenth Ward meeting house, where
members of the ward had assembled, and I preached a fare-

480 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

well sermon and took an affectionate leave of the peo-
ple.

I sold some of my real estate to pay the expenses of my
journey, and for my family; also received contributions in
money from a number of friends; and on April 26th I
started on my mission, accompanied by my son Elando. We
stayed over night at Ogden, then continued on to San
Francisco, arriving there April 28th. On April 30th we
boarded the barkentine City of Papeete, which sailed the
next day.

The sea voyage occupied the entire month of May,
Tahiti coming into view on the evening of the 31st. Our
fare, cabin, was seventy-five dollars each. The first few
days out we had headwinds, and there was a goodly share
of seasickness. On the 10th a native of Tahiti, named
Manhele, commonly known as John Bull, became violently
insane, and had to be restrained. On the 12th he freed
himself and crawled out on the jib boom, from which he
was about to plunge into the sea, when he was secured. It
took five men to handle him. At five o'clock on the morning
of the 15th it was discovered that the madman had made a
fire by rubbing two sticks together. Fortunately he was
detected in time to prevent the ship being set aflame. A
few days after this occurrence his condition improved and
continued so to the end of the voyage.

It was at the Marquesas Islands on May 26th, when
we sailed into port, that I went ashore with the rest of the
passengers, and met a native of Rapia, a very uninviting
person in appearance. The people warned us to beware
of him as he was a savage and had killed five men. He
told me he had seen me forty years before on his native
island, and related circumstances of the event that con-
vinced me his statement was true.

The next man I spoke to ashore was John H. Rumrell of
Boston, Massachusetts, who was taken prisoner by natives

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AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 48 1

on the Marquesas Islands in 1847, and in the following
year was tattooed from the tip of his nose to just above his
eyebrows, and back to his ear on the left side of his face;
on the right side the tattooing went from the lower part of
the nose back to the ear; while above the eyebrow, and
reaching to the ear, was another strip. The ink was
pricked in with human bone. He said that it was because
of this tattooing that he would not return to his people.
In his experience he had been without clothing for
years. He had two sons and one daughter, and lived like
the natives in every respect. He related how that on one
occasion the natives had killed a white man and cooked
and ate him, and at the same time they had killed a colored
man, who was eaten raw, before the flesh was cold. Mr.
Rumrell said he seldom heard from his relatives in Boston.
He seemed almost oblivious to everything except what was
immediately before him; he took as little interest in civili-
zation as did the natives, and I have not found a lower class
of people in the South Pacific than on the five of eleven
Marquesas islands which were inhabited at the time of this
visit.

The captain of our vessel informed me that the inhabi-
tants of the group numbered about four thousand eight
hundred souls, and that there were ten deaths among the
natives to one birth, the chief cause of this mortality being
the opium habit. The French governor was trying to pro-
hibit the use of the drug, but so far had not betn success-
ful.

On the voyage down to the Marquesas we saw many
flying fish, whales and other varieties of the finny tribe.
On May 12th the sailors caught two sharks, and after cut-
ting them up threw them overboard. We left the port of
Taihai, in the Marquesas, on May 28th, and on the 31st
sighted Tahiti, entering the harbor of Papeete on June 1st,
after considerable trouble.

482 LIFE OF A* PIONEER.

I remained on board till the afternoon. Mr. Dorence
Atwater, formerly United States consul there, came on the
vessel, and recognizing me told me he had an empty room
that I was welcome to occupy with my friends until I could
do better. I felt that this courtesy had been offered as an
answer to my prayers to the Lord. I accepted the invita-
tion and we went to the house he had been speaking of,
from where we returned to the wharf, and he bade me good
evening.

While resting myself a moment near a group of natives
I spoke to them, when one came forward and asked why I
was there. I replied that I had come to preach the Gos-
pel. At this he called four of his companions and intro-
duced them as Mormon missionaries of the Reorganized
Church of Latter-day Saints, or followers of young Joseph
Smith, the Prophet's son. I told them I did not belong to
their organization, but to the true Church of Saints, the
same as when I was on the islands before. They seemed
surprised and confused, and after a pause inquired if I knew
the Josephite missionaries that came from America. I an-
swered that all the true Mormon missionaries came from
Salt Lake City and vicinity. Then I asked if they knew
where I could get a bed, and after consultation one of them
said I could go with him. My baggage, however, was not
through the custom house, and the captain suggested that
I had better stay on board, so I went back to the vessel.

That evening Elders Joseph W. Damron and Wm. A.
Seegmiller, missionaries from Utah, came on board and
asked if there were any Latter-day Saints there. I intro-
duced myself, then my son Elando, and Elder Thomas
Jones. Elder Damron insisted that we go on shore with
him for the night, which we did, and my son and I were
comfortably located at the home of Tiniarau, where we re-
mained some time. The other Elders went to a house
about three miles distant, but next day moved to Mr. At-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 483

water's place. For some days I was very tired and in poor
health, and remained at the house talking to people who
called.

CHAPTER LXIV.

FIRST SABBATH IN TAHITI-MEET SEVERAL PERSONS WHOM I KNEW
OVER FORTY YEARS BEFORE-HOW THEY REMEMBERED ME-
SEEK PERMISSION TO HOLD PUBLIC MEETINGS-WIDOW OF MY
OLD FRIEND, JOHN LAYTON, CALLS ON ME-OTHER FRIENDS-
PREACH TO THE JOSEPH1TES- GOVERNOR REFUSES TO PERMIT
US TO HOLD PUBLIC MEETINGS-GET ADVICE OF THE UNITED
STATES CONSUL-A LAWYER'S COUNSEL-JOSEPHITES TELL OF B.
F GROUARD-I EXPLAIN HOW HE HAD TURNED INTO THE WRONG
P1TH-THE CHURCH NEVER DISORGANIZED-MISSIONARY LABORS
-GREETING A FRENCH ADMIRAL-EARLY MISSIONARIES TO TA-
HITI-THEIR SEVERE EXPERIENCES-SIXTY-FOURTH ANNIVER-
SARY OF MY BIRTH-LEARN OF MORMONS WHO WERE HANGED
FOR HAVING KILLED A POLICEMAN IN THE TROUBLE WHEN I
WAS ARRESTED ON MY FIRST MISSION TO THE ISLANDS-MEET A
NATIVE OF PITCAIRN'S ISLAND-HIS STORY-VISIT TAUTILA-
SEVERE VOYAGE-A BAPTISM-SAIL FOR TUBUOI- AMONG STRANG-
ERS-CELEBRATION OF A FRENCH FETE DAY-DINE WITH THE
GOVERNOR-PEOPLE BECOME LESS UNFRIENDLY TO US-BREAK-
ING OF THE CLOUDS-BAPTIZE TWENTY-FOUR PERSONS-EN-
COURAGING RESULTS OF MISSIONARY EFFORTS.

O

UR first Sabbath in Tahiti (June 5, 1892,) we attend-
v , ed the Josephite meeting. The service was very
brief, and the people seemed worried. Next day several
of the Josephites called on me, and after a lengthy conver-
sation told me they knew I spoke the truth to them. I was
also visited by a number of friends who were young when
I was on the islands before, but who remembered me. One
who came from Anaa said he was present when I first
landed on that island, and he knew of my labors and my
having been arrested by the French. He remembered me

484 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

by my voice, and said the people who heard me then would
know me in the same way, if they did not by seeing me.
Many natives came and said they were glad to see
and hear me, though they had been born since I left the
country.

A Mr. Henry, a son of a former minister of the Church
of England, called, and I loaned him a Voice of Warning.
He invited me to spend the evening with himself and wife,
but I had an appointment. I went next evening, however,
and passed a very enjoyable time, as I did on several oc-
casions afterwards. During that week I was visited by very
many people. Mr. Atwater gave us the privilege of hold-
ing public meetings in his house, but we understood it was
necessary to get the permission of the director and secre-
tary of the interior for the province, so Mr. Atwater and I
called. That official said we were to submit the applica-
tion to the governor, and he would notify Mr. Atwater of
the reply. On Saturday evening I talked on the market
grounds to a large number of people, several of whom rec-
ognized me as having been on the island forty years be-
fore. That evening, at the wharf, I also met with an aged
man from Anaa, who had known me on my former mission,
and who said that if I would go there the people would fol-
low my teachings.

On Sunday, the 12th, who should come to see me but
Mrs. Layton, a native, the widow of my old friend John
Layton. I had seen her in San Francisco. My own
sister could not have been more pleased to see me, and I
was very glad to meet her. She gave me the best history
of my former friends on the islands that I was able to ob-
tain. Next morning I took a short stroll, then returned to
the house. The other Elders distributed tracts among the
English-speaking residents of Papeete, and I received an-
other call from Mrs. Layton, who brought her little grand-
daughters and also a man — the son of an old friend of mine

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 485

— who said that on my former visit to the island I had
named him Iatobo, after my own Tahitian name.

It was while taking breakfast, on the 14th, with a Mr.
Mervin, some of whose children had been blessed in the
Church, that an old lady who came up, recognized me, and
shook hands so persistently that it seemed as if she did
not intend to let go, and did not do so for some minutes.
She had seen the French officers take me away from Anaa.
The old lady had known me on sight, though forty years
had passed. The same day I met an aged man who also
recognized me from having known me before. That same
evening I was given the privilege of addressing the
Josephite meeting and told them how and by whom the
Gospel had been brought to them, and which was the true
Church. I tendered my services to preach in their meeting
house, but my offer was not accepted.

On the 16th I started with Elder Seegmiller to visit
the old prison where I had been incarcerated by the French,
but the distance being too great I had to give up the jour-
ney. Next day we received from the governor a reply to
our application for permission to hold public meetings.
Our request was denied, the reason assigned being that we
believed in polygamy. We had no disposition to let the
matter rest there, so we called on the United States consul
for advice. He told us to make application in writing for
permission to preach, and if refused to submit it to him. This
we did on the 20th, and next day received an unfavorable
answer. The governor asked what we taught, and we told
him. We stated that we did not teach polygamy. The
reason he then gave for refusing us the permission desired
was that there were enough religions there and he did not
want another established. Mr. Atwater suggested that we
consult with Mr. Bonett, formerly director and secretary of
the interior, and an able lawyer. We did so, and he in-
formed us that it was not necessary to get permissiom to

486 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

preach, but that we must notify the mayor or justice of the
peace of the time and place of our meetings.

To return a few days: On Sunday, the 19th of June, we
attended a J osephite meeting, where all were friendly but
the presiding officer; yet after meeting he told us to come
and eat, sent a half-caste to wait on us, and otherwise was
quite attentive. After dinner we talked to the audience,
who appeared well pleased. They said B. F. Grouard had
set native songs to American tunes, and that he had also
sent letters endorsing the Josephite church; he had been
one of the first to preach the true Gospel to their fathers,
as I had been, and they were confused at my coming, for
they could not refute what I had said. I was under the
necessity of telling them how that Grouard had turned into
the wrong path — an action which they admitted was quite
possible. After our talk this day we felt that we had done
our full duty towards those Josephites in explaining to
them the true condition of affairs.

On the afternoon of the 20th my old friend Mahana
Toro called, but did not seem so friendly as in former times.
He was about seventy years of age, and very much broken
in health. He also had joined the Josephites under the
misapprehension that they were of the same Church as I
was. I told him the difference, that the Josephite organi-
zation was distinct, and was not the Church of Jesus Christ
of Latter-day Saints, which never had been disorganized.
He then seemed to feel more kindly towards me, and
visited me on subsequent occasions, bringing gifts of or-
anges.

My health was very poor, and at times I was quite
ill. I was able most of the time, however, to get around,
and to preach to the people, either those who called on me,
or those I had the privilege of visiting. My missionary
companions were also energetic in their labors. Occasion-
ally we had the opportunity to extend our acquaintance into

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 487

prominent circles of society. For instance, on June 27th,
we attended a select party in honor of the French admiral.
There was a grand illumination. I also visited captains of
vessels engaged in traffic between the islands, and had
pleasant chats with them on the principles of the Gospel. I
did not fail to talk to the natives whenever occasion offered,
and this was frequent. On July 2nd, in the market square,
a large crowd gathered around me as I preached, and most
of them acknowledged the truth of the principles I taught.
Then, lest the police stop me for raising an excitement, I
changed to asking questions, as in conversation, so no of-
fense could be taken by the officers.

I learned an interesting bit of missionary history on
July 3rd. This day, I met Mr. J. S. Henry, who said his
father was one of the first Christian missionaries on the
islands, having come to Tahiti in 1797. Thev had a very
hard time of it. For years their clothing was made of the
bark of the bread-fruit tree, and they had gone barefooted
for a long time, their shoes and doming having worn out.
They had been five years without receiving any supply
from their society. My informant was born on the island.
I loaned him a copy of the Deseret News, which contained
sermons by President Wilford Woodruff and by Elder C.
W. Penrose, who was editor of the paper at that time.

Monday, July 4, 1892, was the sixty-fourth anniver-
sary of my birth, and I was spending it in far off Tahiti.
I had but few callers that day, and consequently but few
congratulations. I continued my efforts to make myself
more proficient in the Tahitian language, and from day to
day proceeded with the duties that rested on me. July 12th
an aged man Tematu called on me, saying that he was
from the island of Anaa, and had been my servant on the
occasion of my former visit. He told me of the four mem-
bers of the Church that were hanged by the French; for in
the trouble then they had killed a policeman and had

488 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

wounded severely a Catholic priest. The names of the
executed men were Tefaitina, Reifara, Maru, Mafeuta and
Temutu.

Among the very aged people I met was one who
called on me on July 18, Timou, aged one hundred and
three years. I also met. at a blacksmith shop, on July 21st,
a native of Pitcairn's island, William Christenson. He was
a descendant of one of the mutineers of the British ship
Bounty. He told the story as follows : The Bounty sailed
from England in the year 1689, the company intending to
collect plants from the South Sea Islands . They called at
Tahiti, and made their collection, then got some natives
and their wives and some other women on board, and put
out to sea. Fletcher Christenson, first mate, and some of
the crew mutinied, getting control of the vessel. They put
the captain, whose name was Blythe, and those who
wished to go with him, into the best boat, supplied them
with such articles as they desired which were at hand, and
set them adrift. This party subsequently reached England,
while the first mate and crew ran the ship into a small bay
at Pitcairn's Island, where they wrecked the vessel, taking
the supplies on shore. All went well for a time, till the native
men became jealous of the white men and killed most of them.
Afterwards, at the instance of the remaining white men,
the women killed the native men who had escaped in the
former trouble, so there were left but two oT the white men
and the women. These, and after them, their descendants,
lived on the island, which was but a few miles in circum-
ference. The population increased to about four hundred
souls, when the British government moved them to Norfolk
Island. Some of them returned to Pitcairn's, and at that
time (1892) there were one hundred and thirty-six souls on
the island, every one belonging to the Seventh Day Ad-
ventists, and all speaking the English language. Mr.
Christenson said that the only names of the mutinous crew he

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 489

remembered besides those of the captain and his own pro-
genitor, were John Adams, McKay, John Mills,

Isaac Brown and Yindle. Christenson's story does

not harmonize precisely with the generally accepted history
of the affair, but I have given it as he related it.

For a considerable time we had endeavored to get
passage for some of the Elders to the island of Tuamotu.
but were unsuccessful, so we divided Papeete into mission-
ary districts, Elder Damron and my son Elando taking the
east side, and Elders Seegmiller and Jones the western dis-
trict. During the latter part of July and the greater portion
of August, I was quite ill, and was troubled greatly with
neuralgia. On August 14th, we applied to the Josephites
for permission to speak in their house, but it was refused,
resulting in quite a discussion among the members of the
Josephite congregation, some of whom were quite friendly
to us. On the 23rd my son Elando and I left Papeete, by
invitation, for Tautila, going in a boat in which there were
four other men and a woman, the latter being a sister of
the owner of the craft. When we got off Haapape the
wind became so high that the men were obliged to row for
the shore, and we found refuge in the home of Terumana,
a native, who fed us on native food and gave each of us a
good bed.

We had to remain there till 11 p. m. on the 25th, when
we started to sea again, the night being pitch dark. The
woman made me as comfortable as was possible in the small
boat, and all went well for a time with the exception of sea-
sickness. Then it came on to rain very hard, and we were
all wet. Early in the morning we ran into shore, and the
men in charge of the boat asked us to pray, which I did.
We then proceeded on our way with a cocoanut each for
breakfast, and at half-past eight p. m., on the 26th, reached
the mouth of a river on Tautila.

Our host was Mr. Hiotina, and his wife's name was

31

490 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Teumere. She was an invalid, her frame almost a skeleton,
but she was a very bright woman intellectually. Her mem-
orizing of Scripture passages was truly a marvel. The next
day after our arrival was Saturday, and many people came
out of curiosity to see us. On Sunday, the 28th, about sixty
people assembled, and our host requested us to hold relig-
ious services, which we did. While I was preaching on
faith, repentance, and baptism, taking my text from the
third chapter of Matthew, an old lady went over to my son,
who was near the door, and requested baptism. This was
the first application of the kind made to us on the island.
The lady had been a member of the Church, but had be-
come negligent. At 5 p. m. that day she was baptized
by Elder Elando Brown, and I confirmed her a member of
the Church, there being many people present, among them
a Protestant minister.

We stayed on Tautila until September 9th, visiting
among the people and preaching and talking to them, as
opportunity afforded, though we could not get a house to
preach in. On the 9th we returned to Papeete, the voyage
being very rough and trying. I could hardly stand on my
crutches when we landed, at 10 p. m.

On the nth we arranged for four of us to go to Tu-
buoi, but the governor informed the captain that he could
take but two white passengers, so on August 15th Elder
Seegmiller and I left on a vessel bound for the island named.
The voyage lasted till the 20th and was decidedly uncom-
fortable. We did not have sufficient food, there was no
bedding, and the water on board was filthy. Worn and ex-
hausted, we were glad to get ashore at Tapuai, where we
were coldly greeted. We secured a comfortable lodging
room, so far as appearances were concerned, and plenty of
fleas for bed-fellows. Our room-mate was a young man
named Alexander Drolett, interpreter for the French cap-
tain of a government schooner that was lying in the harbor.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN.

49]

There we met Tapuni, a native Josephite preacher who had
been on the island about five months. He tried to be
sociable, but was ill at ease, apparently being discounted
by our arrival. We found the people generally very dis-
tant, as if they did not wish us there. Mr. Drolett how-
ever, was kind and sociable, and we had the privilege of
explaining to him the nature of our calling on the islands.
September 22, 1892, was the one hundredth anniver-
sary of the first French republic, and a feast and holiday had
been proclaimed. Flags were hoisted, and the people
gathered to the feast. We were among those invited, and
were seated at the table with the captain of the French
schooner and his interpreter, and the governor and his wife,
also Tapuni. About ninety persons were at the feast. Din-
ger was served in French and native styles blended. This
was followed by singing, and by dancing and contortions
of the old heathen fashion, until I was worn out.

The following day the French schooner left, and Elder
Seegmiller and I sent a letter to our brethren at Papeete.
As we were in the house a policeman called and gazed at
us for a time, then left without speaking. Next came
the native governor, Tahuhuetoma, who entered without
noticing me, but I slapped him on the shoulder and asked
him if he had eyes, whereat he spoke, but had little to .say.
Then came a native, Tehaheatihi, from the village of Mahu
on the south side of the island. He was very friendly, and
said he had joined the Josephites but had discovered his
mistake. I was quite ill, so could not accept his invitation
to accompany him to Mahu, except on the condition that he
furnish a conveyance, which he promised to try to do. Our
landlord, however, told us not to trouble, but to remain till
Sunday, when we would all go to Mahu, and could speak
to the people there. He said Tapuni was not pleased, but
that made little difference.

Next day was Saturday, the 24th— the occasion of

492 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

greater kindness to us from the natives than previously; for
two children aged ten and twelve years brought us some
food, as did also the governor's wife. On Sunday further
friendship was displayed, and the people came to ask us
questions; but we were unable to go to Mahu, and were re-
fused the privilege of speaking at the religious services in
the place where we were. On Monday, however, we went
to Mahu, where we met twelve to fifteen men, with whom
we had a pleasant visit, talking to them quite freely.

During that week we met a number of people who ex-
hibited a kindly feeling towards us in conversation. Some
applied for baptism, but I advised them to wait. By the
end of the week the clouds over the mission began to break.
When Sunday came there was a religious feast, but we
were not allowed to take part, so, with about five natives,
held services of singing, prayer and conversation. Again
in the afternoon we had a meeting at which about thirty
persons were present, and I explained how the authority
had continued in the Church from the Prophet Joseph to
the present organization. At that meeting Elder Seegmil-
ler spoke publicly in the native tongue for the first time.
There were several applications for baptism, and on the
following Tuesday, October 4th, Elder Seegmiller baptized
twenty-four persons, whom I confirmed members of the
Church. Thus the missionary work on the island was
opened up again, with a fair start for prosperity.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 493

CHAPTER LXV.

MIRACULOUS HEALING -MEET AND CONFOUND THE JOSEPHITES-
FURTHER MISSIONARY SUCCESS -MEET A NATIVE WHO WAS
PRESENT WHEN I WAS SENTENCED TO BE BURNED-ELDER
JOHN LAYTON'S GRAVE - ARRANGE TO RETURN TO TAHITI-
DISAPPOINTED-PREACH A FUNERAL SERMON-FORBIDDEN TO
HOLD PUBLIC MEETINGS-BLIND WOMAN ONE HUNDRED AND
TWENTY YEARS OLD-HER TESTIMONY-ADMINISTER TO HER
FOR HER EYESIGHT, AND SHE IS ENABLED TO SEE A LITTLE-
SHE PRAISES THE LORD-PREACHING AND BAPTIZING-SAIL FOR
PAPEETE-AN ODD CARGO-HARD VOYAGE-HELD BY A CALM-
LAND ON TAHITI-SAIL FOR AVAROA-ON A WELL-ORDERED
SCHOONER-CALL AT VARIOUS ISLANDS-LANCE A CARBUNCLE-
CHRISTMAS DAY AT SEA-WATERMELONS-A BEAUTIFUL RESI-
DENCE AND CORDIAL WELCOME-PERFORM THREE MARRIAGE
CEREMONIES-CONFERENCE OF SAINTS IN THE TUAMOTU ISLANDS
-MEET A NATIVE CHILEAN-VISIT VARIOUS PLACES-PUBLIC
WELCOME-FISHING-ON THE ISLAND OF ANAA-VISIT WHERE I
WAS IMPRISONED -GRAVES OF THOSE CONCERNED IN THE
TROUBLE THEN-WARRANT SERVED ON ME-SUMMONED TO THE
GOVERNMENT HOUSE - WARNED AGAINST CREATING A DIS-
TURBANCE.

IT was on October 6, 1892, that the first case of miracu-
lous healing after our arrival occurred. We were be-
coming recipients of greater kindness from the natives, and
that day Roai, the oldest man on the island, was brought to
us, shaking violently with a chill. He appeared to be dy-
ing. Some cocoanut oil was brought— no other was obtain-
able and we blessed it and anointed and blessed him, when

the chill immediately left him. He rested well, and next
morning was in his usual good health.

On the 7th there was quite an argument among the
people as to whether the Josephites or the Mormons should
have the meeting house. The decision was in our favor,
and we were also offered a house in the village of Taahuaia.

494 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

The Josephite preacher, Tapuni, wanted to hold joint meet-
ings with us, as we both followed the same form of baptism;
but we refused, as we could not make any alliance with him.
We represented the true Church of Jesus Christ, while his
organization was by persons who had been excommunicated,
and had not divine authority.

When Sunday came we held three meetings, blessed
fourteen children, and took dinner with the policeman.
Next day, the ioth, we ordained Ote an Elder, and added
nine persons to the Church by baptism. On the nth we
met a man — the fourth on the island — who was on the island
of Raivavai when the natives had built a fire to burn me,
and when I was delivered by the power of God. They
claimed to have been present when I was sentenced, but
denied taking any part in the proceedings.

Friday, October 14th, we bade the Saints of Mahu
farewell (having, the day previous, ordained two Elders,
two Priests, one Teacher and one Deacon) and went to
Taahuaia, where the people were quite indifferent to us.
From time to time, however, we were able to converse with
some of them, and baptized several. On the 23rd, the gov-
ernor gave us permission to hold meetings, and we began
doing so. I visited the grave of Elder John Layton on the
24th, and on the 25th arranged to leave on a schooner for
Tahiti. My health had been quite poor for some time. I
did not go on the boat, however, for it was so heavily laden
that there was no room, so it sailed on the 27th without me.
Monday, October 31st, I preached the funeral sermon of a
little girl.

On the 5th of November, the Josephite preacher and
his wife called on me. In the evening a special meeting of
the people was held, the purpose of which was kept secret
from us. That night I dreamed I was on trial and the judge
said he knew I was not guilty, but because of the demand
of the people he would have to give judgment against me

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 495

and assess a fine of twenty dollars, which the court would
pay. I awoke and told Elder Seegmiller the natives had
made a decision against us, as we learned the next day,
when the governor withdrew from us the privilege of hold-
ing meetings.

We went to Mataura on November 7th, to see a man
possessed of a devil. The evil spirit was dumb, and for three
years the man had not spoken to anyone, but sat or laid
around. We also visited the school where there were about
thirty students, and the teacher called one pupil to the black-
board, where the exercise in writing required of her was
well done. Then we called on Tetuatehiapa, the oldest
woman on the island. She was one hundred and twenty
years of age, and had been blind for eight years. The
people said she had insisted that she would live till the ser-
vants of God came from Salt Lake City. When told who
we were she rejoiced greatly, and exclaimed, "I always said
you would come again ! The Lord has brought you, and
has prolonged my life till you came. I rejoice exceedingly
at the mercies of the Lord!" On November 8th, we bap-
tized her with seven others, and on the 10th administered
to her for her blindness by laying hands on her head and
blessing her. When we had attended to the ordinance she
stated that she could see a little, which was more than she
had done for eight years. "God be praised for His mercies,"
she said.

Sunday, November 13th, I preached twice to large
congregations at Mahu, where we arrived on the nth. We
also had a number of applicants for baptism, and on the
14th eight members were added to the Church by the
ordinance, and we blessed two children. A Catholic priest
called on us, and I had a pointed discussion with him on
authority in the Church, and the true Gospel. We parted
good friends, he promising to come again next day, but he
did not do so; although he passed by the house, but never

496 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

loooked towards us. On the 16th we added five more souls
to the Church by baptism.

Our missionary labors continued in different villages,
and on November 23 Elder Seegmiller baptized the school
teacher at Mataura, also two of the governor's daugh-
ters. On the 2 1st the captain of a schooner that had
called at the island told us we could go to Tahiti on his ves-
sel, starting on the 24th. Elder Seegmiller aided me in
preparing for the voyage, and I bade farewell to the people,
who were very much attached to us. I shook hands with
the governor, when his eyes filled with tears, he kissed me,
and was so full of emotion that it was difficult for him to
speak. In due time the vessel sailed, Elder Seegmiller go-
ing on it to Mataura, three miles down the coast, where he
went ashore, as we had agreed, and I was alone so far as a
missionary companion was concerned.

At Mataura the French police justice and his wife, a
Marquesas woman, came aboard, and at 6 p. m. we weighed
anchor. The schooner was very much crowded, the cargo
including four women, two children, fourteen men, three
horses, twenty hogs, one goat, one dog, about one hundred
chickens, eight or ten turkeys, eleven thousand cocoanuts,
and a lot of other things. The most comfortable place I
could find was on the companion-way, where I sat, as I was
not able to use my crutches on the vessel. The first night
out I found I could not sleep in my berth, as it was too
cramped and the tobacco smoke and foul air were too much
for me, so I camped on the companion-way with my blanket,
and was very seasick. The next night I fared about the
same, and it was pretty hard on me; but the third night,
Saturday, I went below before the others did, and obtained
a fairly good night's rest.

Sunday, November 27, we sighted Tahiti, but a heavy
rain and calm held us back over Monday, Tuesday and
Wednesday. On the last-named day the crew caught a

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 497

shark, and we had some of it boiled for supper. Thursday,
December ist,we landed at Papeete in a heavy rainstorm, and
quite exhausted. I was met by my son Elando, and once on
shore I was refreshed with palatable food and good news
from my family. We spent our time the next fourteen days
in missionary labors in Papeete, to the best advantage, and
on the sixth, baptized eight persons into the Church. My
health was decidedly poor at this time.

We had arranged with Mr. Henry Marvin for passage on
the schooner Avaroa to the Tuamotu islands, sailing on Dec-
ember 15th. We left on the date named and though we had
some headwinds and calms, we had a good voyage; for the
captain (a Hawaiian) and crew were agreeable, the vessel
was kept clean and in perfect order, and the table was well
supplied with a good variety of food. We sighted several
islands, and on the 20th stopped at Niau, which has a popu-
lation of one hundred, all members of the Josephite Church.
Their presiding officer and a number of his people came on
board and gave us six chickens and six baskets of cocoa-
nuts as a token of friendship. I talked to them on the
Gospel message I had to deliver as a missionary.

We went ashore on the island of Apatai on the 23rd,
as Mr. Marvin had some business there. The people were
rather indifferent to us as missionaries. I visited the gov-
ernor, who said he had been my servant on the island of
Anaa when I was there forty years before. He was
very much afflicted with a carbuncle on the back of
his head and neck, and could move about only by crawling
on his hands and knees. I lanced his carbuncle, and he
recovered.

Christmas Day, 1892, was spent on the schooner
Avaroa, and we sought the coolest place we could find and
ate watermelons, thinking of our mountain home and the
loved ones in Utah. Next day we sailed into port at Taroa,
and were met by Elder Joseph W. Damron and some native

498 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Saints. I was welcomed to the home of Mr. Mapuhi, a
seven-roomed frame house, built on pillars of coral stone
and beautifully furnished in American fashion. The place
seemed perfectly lovely, and a surprise for us in the way of
a spring mattress to sleep on was doubly welcome. The
following day was the 27th, and I had the privilege of
preaching to a good audience.

The 28th of December was Wednesday, and the morn-
ing was marked by the receipt of an invitation to a triple
wedding and feast to be held that afternoon at the govern-
ment building. I attended and by request performed the
marriage ceremony for the three couples. I also availed
myself of the opportunity to address the assemblage briefly
on the subjects of marriage and baptism for the dead. This
day I had the unusual experience of standing in the door of
the house where we were lodging and viewing a large
school of whales pass by.

New Year's day, 1893, was the time for a conference
of the Saints to be held on the island of Faiti, so preparations-
were made on December 29th for us to leave Taroa. On
this date I met a native Chilean, who said he came from
San Antonio, about thirty miles south of Valparaiso. When
I heard this, it called to my mind a statement of Dr. J. M.
Bernhisel, that he had learned from the Prophet Joseph
Smith that that was near the place where Lehi and his
colony, told of in the Book of Mormon, landed in America,
on their journey from Jerusalem. In the afternoon we
started, on Mapuhi's schooner, for Faiti, six boatloads of
the Saints going along. Our vessel had twenty persons
aboard. The wind was fair, and on Saturday, December
31st, we reached Faiti, landing about 9:30 a. m. Our re-
ception was rather cool, as we were ushered into a large
room, almost bare save a long table and a few chairs, and
were left alone much of the time. However, we had good
beds at night. In the morning, Sunday, January 1st, we

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 499'

held meeting, and I called for those who had known me on
my former mission to stand up. Seventeen persons arose
to their feet, and stated that they remembered and recog-
nized me. Our meetings at conference were well attended.
The presiding officer of the Church in the Tuamotu islands
was a blind man, and he asked me a number of questions
to satisfy himself that I was the same one who had been
there forty years before with Elders Pratt and Grouard. I
baptized him at that time. When he was fully convinced he
remarked that if I had not come he would not have received
the young missionaries, referring to Elders Damron, Jonesr
and my son Elando.

It was January 4th before the people gave us the pub-
lic reception that was customary. Af the ceremony an aged
man related how they had prayed that I might come back.
to them again, to teach them the true Gospel. That day
the French gen d' armes made some charges of irregularity
against the owner of our boat, saying the captain had not
the proper papers. It was generally understood, however,,
that the trouble originated with the Catholic priest. Matters
were finally settled. Next morning I went fishing with our
landlord and caught six nice rock cod, where the sea was
ten fathoms deep. The water was so clear that through a
glass we could see the bottom, with the myriad beauties and
great variety of fish at that place. The anchor of the canoe
got fast in a coral reef, and our host dived down and re-
leased it.

We continued to hold meetings all the week to give
the people a correct understanding of our mission; then, on
January 9th, my son Elando and I sailed for the island of
Anaa, arriving there at noon that day, and being warmly
welcomed by the people of Tuuhora, where we landed.

On the nth, I walked over the ground where I had
been held a prisoner by the French government, and visited
the cemetery where was the grave of the policeman who

500 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

had been killed in an affray subsequent to my departure.
On the afternoon of the 13th, I visited the graves of those
who were hanged by the French government for their part
in the tragedy. Upon my return from the cemetery, a war-
rant was served on me by a policeman. It was in both
French and English, the English translation reading as fol-
lows:

"Monsieur Jacob, Ministre Mormon:

"The gen d' arme chief of port at Anaa invites Mr.
Jacob (James), Mormon minister at Tuuhora, to come to
the government house at Tuuhora (Fare Hau), to listen to
a communication which he desires him to hear.

"Cy. Cours,
"The Gen d' arme Chief of Post.
"Tuuhora, 13th January, 1893."

Of course I responded to this invitation from the chief
of police, so with my son Elando reported as requested, to
listen to an order made by the governor of the Tuamotu
group of islands. The chief of police warned us particularly
that if we caused the slightest disturbance among the people
over the meeting house, or otherwise, it might result seri-
ously to me. This was repeated six times, in an emphatic
tone of voice. The officer refused utterly to hear anything
from us, saying, "I follow out my instructions. You must
not step your foot inside of the meeting house at Temeraia,
nor the house here."

Finding it was useless for us to say anything, we bade
the chief of police and the interpreter (Mr. Burns, an Eng-
lishman) good-bye, and left them to their stench of strong
drink.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 5GI

CHAPTER LXVI.

PREACHING AND VISITING-PEARL FISHING- PEACE OF MY ARREST IN 1851

Occident to a young man-incident with the governor

OF ANAA-SEE A LEPER-CAPTURE OF AN EEL-CONFERENCE ON
ANAA-TIME OF DEDICATION OF SALT LAKE TEMPLE-SPECIALLY
INTERESTING MEETINGS-NEW ELDERS FROM UTAH-START BACK
TO TAHITI-4NOTHER FUNERAL SERMON-MEET THE FRENCH
GOVERNOR OF THE TUAMOTU ISLANDS-HIS CORDIAL GREET-
ING-ARRIVE AT PAPEETE-APPOINTMENTS FOR THE NEW MIS-
^o7aRIES-FAIL TO GET A PASSAGE TO TUBUOI-MY HEALTH
VERY POOR-LEARN OF THE DEDICATION OF THE SALT LAKE
TEMPLE-ELDERS UNANIMOUS IN THE DECISION THAT 1 SHOULD
RETURN HOME BECAUSE OF MY ILLNESS-I DEMUR-CONCLUDE
JoGO-TROUBLEON ANAA-MY SIXTY-FIFTH BIRTHDAY-NOTABLE
KINDNESS OF A NATIVE CHILD-SAIL FROM PAPEETE-DIP FI-
CUlS IN LANDING FROM SMALL BOATS-IN THE SOCIETY
ISLANDS-REACH SAN FRANCISCO-ARRIVE IN SALT LAKE CITY
-REPORT THE SUCCESSFUL OPENING OF THE SOCIETY ISLANDS

MISSION.

AFTER the severe warning from the governor, we re-
turned to our missionary labors, preaching to the
people as we could find opportunity. The Sunday follow-
ing this occurrence (January i5th) we had three well-at-
tended meetings in a private meeting house, and on Monday
we went in a boat to Putuahara, a town of two thousand
people on my first visit but now dwindled down to a place
with less than sixty inhabitants. All the ablebodied men
were away, engaged in pearl-fishing. This is the place
where the people killed the French policeman and severe-
ly beat the Catholic priest, as already stated.

We conversed with and preached to the inhabitants
until the 25th, when we went to Otopipi, but returned that
same dav, as our friends there were absent romhome.
Our missionary work in Putuahara continued till February

302 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

4th, when we again went to Otopipi. Next day being
Sunday I had the privilege of preaching to a large congre-
gation. There were thirty-one native members of the
Church present. Many of the people in attendance were
Catholics, and my remarks raised quite a discussion among
them, some of them being for and others against me.
Early on Monday, according to previous arrangement, we
sailed around to Temeraia, receiving a hearty welcome
there.

At this place we met the granddaughter of John Haw-
kins, once an Elder in this mission and now a Josephite. I
also visited the spot where I had been arrested in the year
1851. The house had been cleared away since then, and
an old wrecked boat occupied the site. We held meetings
and had a large attendance, though the weather was in-
tensely hot and oppressive, and my health quite poor.

On February 17th a young man named Temia fell
thirty-five feet from a tree and broke his arm in three places,
the bones coming through his skin in one place. With
such hot weather, and no surgical or medical attendance
available, it looked as though his chances for recovery
seemed slight. We visited him again on the 28th, and his
case looked even more serious. We administered to him,
and he ultimately recovered. Towards the latter part of
the month the people began to feel more friendly to us,
and received us more cordially than at first.

While we were in meeting on March 1st, the gover-
nor passed, and as he was averse to recognizing us then as
previously, I called to him and asked the reason. His re-
ply was that it was not wise to do so. I continued to talk
with him, and he became more sociable, confessing that it
was the darkness of his heart that had caused him to act
so improperly. I advised him to repent of his sins and ask
the Lord to give him light, and he felt better. Two days
-after this I beheld the unusual sight of a leper, as one

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 503

passed the house — a painful picture to behold. The third
day a man and his wife were baptized into the Church. A
visit to Tuuhora was made on March 6th, and on the re-
turn voyage, while diving for pearls, an eel was discovered
under a rock in deep water. It took quite a right to cap-
ture it, but it was a fine one — about four feet long. We
went to Putuahara on March 13, and during the remainder
of the month continued our missionary labors, meeting with
no unusual experiences.

On March 31st, Elders Damron and Jones came from
Fakariva, and native members of the Church began to ar-
rive in preparation for our conference, which was set for
April 6th, 1893. At 7 o'clock that morning we assembled
in conference, being the same actual time when the Saints
were meeting for the dedication of the Temple in Salt Lake
City, Utah — 10 a. m. at the latter place. I explained to
the Saints in conference the nature and importance of the
event just named. Elder Damron also spoke on temple
building, and after the close of our meeting we went to the
seashore, where we held a short service, and my son Elando
baptized five persons into the Church. We also ordained
three native Elders and appointed two of them to preside
over branches of the Church. The conference continued
till Sunday evening, and all in attendance had a most enjoy-
able time.

We had received word on Saturday that eight Elders
had arrived at Papeete from Utah, and at the close of con-
ference we decided that we had better return to Tahiti as
soon as possible. Next morning we bade farewell to the
weeping Saints, and set sail for Tuuhora. From there we
took passage for Taroa. On April 12th, we stopped at
Apatai, where I went ashore and met a number of people
whom I had baptized on my former mission. They did
not display much of a hospitable feeling, as none invited
me to their houses.

504 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

Taroa was reached on April 16th, and the hearty wel-
come there was highly appreciated after a voyage which
had been very unpleasant to me, as I had been quite ill.
We were met by Messrs. Marvin and Mapuhi, and escorted
to the latter's fine residence. It being Sunday, we at-
tended meetings. My son Elando was also called on, on
on April 21st, to preach the funeral sermon over a young
man who had died of consumption.

On the morning of April 27th, the schooner Avaroa
came into port, having on board the French governor of
the Tuamotu group, also the native governor of Taroa. We
had a friendly chat with them, the Frenchman saying he
had been in Salt Lake City. He invited me to visit him
when I went to Fakariva again. Next day the people as-
sembled to pay their respects to the governor, and we also
had another pleasant chat with him.

We started from Taroa on Monday, May 1st, on the
Avaroa, but as the vessel was going out to sea she struck
on a rock which disabled tne rudder, and it took till even-
ing to repair it. Then we sailed for Fakariva, reaching
there the following afternoon. The French governor went
ashore, and later we did the same. Next morning we took
breakfast with him, being invited to come again whenever
we were on the island. That afternoon we sailed for Tahiti,
reaching Papeete harbor on Saturday, May 6th, and meet-
ing there Elders Edward Sudbury, Frank Goff, Frank Cut-
ler, Eugene M. Cannon, Carl J. Larsen, Thomas L. Wood-
bury, Fred C. Rossiter and Jesse M. Fox, all from Utah.

At a meeting of the missionaries held on May 13th,
Elders Carl J. Larsen and Thomas L. Woodbury were ap-
pointed to go to the Tuamotu islands, Elders Frank Goff and
Jesse M. Fox to Tubuoi, with my son Elando and myself
and the others remaining on Tahiti for a short time.'
Through Mr. Marvin we engaged passage on a French
man-of-war going to Tubuoi, the captain giving his per-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OK JAMES S. BROWN. 505

mission. But after we had packed our trunks and pur-
chased our provisions for the journey, the captain suggested
that we had better get a permit from the governor. We
tried to do so, but that official responded with an abrupt
"No." So we had to await another opportunity.

For some time previous to this date my health had
been poorer than usual, and it grew worse, so that it was
with difficulty I attended to missionary labors and to con-
ducting the mission affairs. I continued at work, however,
the best I could, and my fellow-missionaries were devoted
to their duties. Some of them were in the best of health,
but others were not so fortunate; indeed, one of them, Ed-
ward Sudbury, was under the necessity of returning home
shortly after the date of which I write. On May 25th we
received mail telling us of the dedication of the Temple in
Salt Lake City, and the notable events connected there-
with.

I had tried to get a hall in which to hold meetings for
the European residents of Papeete, my last efforts in that
line being on June 13th, but I was unsuccessful, so we had
to do without, and endeavor to reach them and the natives
in other ways. On June 25th we held a council meeting of
all the Elders on Tahiti, eight in number, at which methods
for the best conduct of the mission were considered.
Among other events of the meeting was the unanimous ex-
pression by my fellow-missionaries of the opinion that my
state of health Was such that I should go home. A mo-
tion that I do so was put and carried, all but myself voting
in favor of my going by the next mail steamer, which
sailed July 8th. I thought that if conditions improved before
that time, I would be at liberty to remain longer in the
mission field. Elder Sudbury was also in such health that
he was booked to start home at the same time, and my
son Elando was selected to accompany us, and give me the
attention I needed.

32

506 L&FE OF A PIONEER.

My health showing no signs of improvement, passage
was secured on the brig Galilee, bound for San Francisco.
On June 27th we had seen two persons from Anaa, who
informed us there was trouble there, the missionaries not
obtaining their rights to preach. I gave such advice as I
felt would be safe to follow, and Elder J. W. Damron, who
succeeded me in the presidency of the mission, was left to
deal with affairs.

On July 4th, my sixty-fifth birthday, John Hawkins, one
of my fellow-laborers of forty-two years before, who had
apostatized and joined the Josephites, called, with others.
He was particularly bitter towards the Church. That day
little Tapura, between six and seven years old, brought
me, of her own volition, a large and beautiful bouquet of
flowers — an act of kindness scarcely to be expected in one
so young. She is the daughter of Mr. Topaz, who was
very kind to us.

The day previous to our going on board, the neigh-
bors brought in bananas and cocoanuts for our use on the
voyage, and we were treated well. We bade farewell to
friends and associates, all being sorry at the parting, and
on July 8th I sailed for the last time from the harbor of
Papeete, island of Tahiti. The words of Apostle Lorenzo
Snow, spoken to me before commencing my journey, had
been fulfilled. Though this mission had not been so long
as some of the others I had filled, it had been one of the
greatest and best I had performed, so far as relates to the
work I had been the means of accomplishing in reopening
and establishing the Society Islands mission.

Our vessel this voyage was very different to those we
often had to use in our travels from place to place, even in
the same island. We also bade adieu to the native method
of landing from boats, which always brought discomfort
and often serious peril. For illustration, it was no uncom-
mon thing, when approaching harbor, to have to pass

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 507

through breakers across a coral reef where there was barely
room for the boat to glide between the rocks. Some-
times the vessel would be run close to the opening, the
occupants would spring out on to the rocks on each side of
the passage, and seizing the boat, would hold it there till the
large or ''three-twin-sisters" wave came along; and then,
by its aid, would drag or push the boat through in safety.
In such times as these my lame condition was hindersome
to the extent of being more than annoying; it was exasper-
ating. But I always got through, though it was hard work,
and my companions gave the needed assistance with per-
fect willingness.

The voyage to San Francisco was without particular
event more than is usual on such occasions, as was also
the journey from San Francisco to Salt Lake City by
rail. We reached home about the middle of August, and
were welcomed cordially. I reported to the First Presi-
dency the condition of affairs in the mission, the progress
we had made, with the difficulties that were to be met with.
Elando and I had been absent for sixteen months, and had
worked with diligence to perform our part.

Our efforts had been blessed of the Lord, for many
people who had been astray from the path of life were led to
■direct their footsteps in the straight and narrow path. The
Society Islands mission had been reopened successfully,
and yet continues to prosper, the membership in the Church
there being quite numerous.

5o8 • LIFE OF A PIONEER.

CHAPTER LXV1I.

INVITED TO THE MIDWINTER FAIR, SAN FRANCISCO, AND ACCEPT—
JOURNEY TO CALIFORNIA -KIND TREATMENT RECEIVED — AN
HONORED GUEST— WRITE A PAMPHLET ON THE DISCOVERY
OF GOLD AT SUTTER'S MILL RACE— FIRST ACCURATE ACCOUNT
PUBLISHED— AGAIN AT HOME— PREPARING MY AUTOBIOGRAPHY
FOR PUBLICATION— A GREAT TASK— PROGRESS OF THE WORK
—MY HISTORY OF THE FIRST MISSION TO THE PACIFIC ISLANDS
—UTAH'S SEMI-CENTENNIAL JUI'.ILEE— NOT A UTAH PIONEER
OF 1847— PIONEER JUST THE SAME— MORMON BATTALION RECOG-
NIZED IN THE UTAH CELEI5RATION— INVITED I O JOIN IN THE PAR-
ADE—COMPARATIVE NARROWNESS OF COMMITTEE'S COURTESY-
LETTERS FROM CALIFORNIA, REGARDING THE PIONEER CELE-
BRATION THERE IN 1898— INVITED WITH THREE OTHERS OF THE
MORMON BATTALION, TO BE SPECIAL GUESTS AS THE SURVIVORS
OF THE PARTY THAT DISCOVERED GOLD IN CALIFORNIA IN 1848—
APPRECIATION OF THE COURTESY EXTENDED BY CALIFORNIANS.

AS my health was far from satisfactory, I was able to do
but little after my return from the Society Islands in
August, 1893. I gave my farm some attention, and trav-
eled occasionally among the people. In February, 1894, ^
received an invitation from James H. Love, manager for
the concession of the '49 mining camp at the Midwinter
Fair, in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, to be present
.there. The invitation came to me through Israel Evans, of
Lehi, Utah, who had been with me in California in 1848.
I accepted, and in company with Israel Evans and my son
James T. Brown, went to California in the month named.
This visit to California extended about thirty days. We
were treated with the greatest kindness. Our place of
lodging at the miner's cabin on the fair grounds was com-
fortably fitted, and besides viewing the most excellent ex-
hibits of this notable Midwinter Exposition, we also visited

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 509

most of the places of interest in the locality. We were
honored guests in every parade, and nothing more could be
desired in the way of courtesies to make our stay pleasant.

While in California on this occasion I wrote my pam-
phlet, "Authentic History of the First Discovery of Gold in
Sutter's Mill Race, California." This was the first accurate
history of that event I had seen in print, all the other ac-
counts having been gathered from hearsay and broken nar-
ratives, while I had the advantage of being an actual partici-
pant in the historic occurrence.

In March, 1894, I returned home, and continued my
ordinary labors, my health being considerably improved. At
this time I began preparing my journal for publication, hav-
ing to -rewrite it to place it in presentable form, as much of
it had been noted down under very adverse circumstances;
it was also necessary to condense it greatly, many items of \
real interest being abbreviated to a considerable extent.

I believe now that if I had realized at the outset what
a great task it was, I should not have attempted it, notwith-
standing the fact that I was fully aware that my life's ex-
perience had been filled with unusually interesting episodes.
But I had not been accustomed to giving up a work once
undertaken with a good aim; so I have continued to the pres-
ent, and as I prepare this chapter, the earlier part of the
work is in the hands of the printer. The only literary ex-
perience I have had previous to this work is writing a his-
tory of the first mission to the Pacific Islands and the sub-
sequent progress of events in the Society Islands mission up
to 1893, the manuscript of which history was filed with and
is now a part of the records of the Church historian's of-
fice.

In July, 1897, Utah's Semi-Centennial Jubilee was cele-
brated, the occasion being the fiftieth anniversary of the
entrance of the Mormon Pioneers into the valley of the
Great Salt Lake, July 24, 1847. The chief ceremonies

510 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

were in Salt Lake City, July 20th to 25th, and I had the
honor and pleasure of being present. I had not the privi-
lege of being classed as one of the pioneers, for these were
limited in the celebration to those who reached Utah in 1847,
and I did not arrive there from the west till 1848. With
the Mormon Battalion members, however, I was a Mormon
pioneer, in the memorable journey across the country to the
Pacific; I was also a pioneer in California, and later in Utah
and surrounding places. The committee on the semi-cen-
tennial celebration, however, noted the fact that the mem-
bers of the Mormon Battalion were entitled to recognition
in connection with the Utah pioneer band, for the w^ork of
both was intimately associated. In pursuance of this, there
was sent to me under date of July 19th, a letter containing
this announcement:

" Survivors of the Mormon Battalion, the Nauvoo
Legion, Captain Ballo's Band, and the Martial Band, are
requested to meet at Pioneer Square on Tuesday next, July
20th, at 9 o'clock a. m., sharp, for the purpose of marching
in advance of the original band of Pioneers to witness the
unveiling ceremonies upon that occasion. Those who are
able to walk are earnestly requested to do so, but those who
are too feeble to walk will join them at the Monument.

"Hoping to see you with us at the appointed time, I am,
"Yours respectfully,

"H. F. McGarvie,
"Assistant Director-General. "

I responded to this limited notice, in common with other
members of the Mormon Battalion at hand. But the sum-
mary treatment was in such strong contrast to the consider-
ation and courtesy extended at the Midwinter Fair, and sub-
sequently at the California Golden Jubilee, that its effect
was to enhance greatly, in the minds of those who partici-

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 511

pated in the California and the Utah celebrations, the admir-
ation for the California managers in their broad and thorough
comprehension of the amenities of such historic public
events. But I must add here that the Mormon Battalion
members, whose journey west was over another route than
that followed by the companies which came direct to the
Salt Lake Valley, were fitly honored in the hearts of Utah's
people as of the pioneer band in the great west.
December i, 1897, I received the following;

"12 16 Hyde Street, San Francisco,

"November 29, 1897.
"Mr. James S. Brown:

"Dear Sir: The celebration committee of the Society
of California Pioneers, expect, though as yet no formal
action has been taken, to invite yourself, Mr. J. Johnston, Mr.
Azariah Smith, and Mr. Henry W.B igler, who were with
Marshall at Coloma on the 24th of January, 1848, to come
to San Francisco as honored guests of the Society, and at
its expense, to participate in the semi-centennial celebration
of that eventful day, on the 24th of January next.

"If we should send such an invitation to you, will you

come and be with us? Letters from Mr. Bigler and Mr.

Smith lead me to hope that they will accept the invitation.

"So soon as formal action is taken, you will be informed

either by myself or by the secretary of our committee.

"Yours truly,

"John S. Hittell.
"A member of the Celebration Committee."

My response was that if my health would permit, and
all things were satisfactory, I should be pleased to accept
such an invitation. I received another letter from Mr. Hit-
tell, under date of December 15th, in which he said:

512 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

"3fr. James S. Brawn :

"Dear Sir: This evening the celebration committee
of the Pioneer Society adopted a resolution to invite you
to attend the Golden Jubilee of California, as an honored
guest of the Society, which will provide you with first class
transportation from and to your home, and take charge of
your hotel bill from the 22nd of January till tire 31st of Jan-
uar}^, 1898, in this city.

"Mr. B. H. and Mr. H. B. Luther, brothers, say that
they were at Coloma on the 24th of January, 1848, as boys,
with their father and mother. Do you know them and re-
member when they reached Coloma? They say their
mother, who was with them there, is still living."

Under date of December 25th, Mr. Hittell also wrote
me:

"Captain James S. Brown:

"Dear Sir: Please let me know the amount of the
railroad fare from Salt Lake to Ogden, so that we may for-
ward the sum to you by letter; we expect to send you a
ticket from Ogden to this city, including a lower berth in a
sleeping car.

"We hope that you, Bigler, Smith and Johnston will
all come in the same car. I have addressed a similar letter
to each of the other three.

"Thanks for your letter of December 20th. I was
satisfied that Gregson and the Luthers were not at the
sawmill on the 24th of January, 1848.

"I suppose the best train would be the one leaving
Salt Lake City at 9:10 p. m., on January 20th, arriving at
San Francisco January 22nd, at 9:45 a. m. Does that suit
you?"

The next communication on the subject was as follows:

autobiography of james s. brown. 513

"Executive Department, the Society of California

Pioneers, No. 5, Pioneer Place, San Francisco,

California,

"January 7, 1898.

"James S. Bi'own, Esq., Salt Lake City :

"Dear Sir: The Society of California Pioneers in-
vites you to attend the Golden Jubilee Celebration of our
State, and to accept the hospitality of the Society in San
Francisco, from the 22nd till the 31st of January, 1898. En-
closed find a pass from the S. P. R. R. Co., for your pas-
sage from Ogden to San Francisco and return. We send
you today by Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Express, fifteen dollars
in coin to pay for your sleeping berth and meals on the way.
We have engaged a lower berth for you on the Pullman
-car which leaves Ogden on the night of Thursday, the 20th
instant.

"The reception committee will meet you on the Oakland
boat on the morning of Saturday, the 22nd, and will wear
the badge of the Society. Should you miss seeing them
you will go to the Russ House, where we have engaged
rooms and board for you.

"Should you not be able to come, please return the en-
closed railroad pass, and notify the ticket agent at Ogden
that you will not use the sleeping berth.

"Yours truly,

"J. I. Spear, Secretary.

"P. S. — We have arranged to have your railroad pass
extended for thirty days if you wish it. S."

Like my Mormon Battalion companions who were with
me on the memorable 24th of January, 1848, I could not
but feel highly gratified at the courtesy extended, and look
forward with pleasure to the commemoration, under so
favorable circumstances and with such marvelous progress
as California had made in civilization, of the fiftieth anni-

514 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

versary of a notable event, which at the time of its occur-
rence, came to us in the midst of hardships, fatigue and
almost exile from home and relatives, yet was a world-
wonder in the results which followed the announcement to
the world of California's great gold discovery.

CHAPTER LXVIII.

TRIP TO CALIFORNIA— MET BY THE COMMITTEE ON RECEPTION OF'
THE SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS— RECEIVED WITH GREAT
CORDIALITY— HONORED GUESTS AT CALIFORNIA'S GOLDEN JUBI-
LEE—THE CELEBRATION— COURTESIES EXTENDED TO MORMON
BATTALION MEMBERS PRESENT AT THE DISCOVERY' OF GOLD—
RETURN HOME-RESOLUTIONS BY SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIO-
NEERS — REPORT OF RECEPTION COMMITTEE OF CALIFORNIA
GOLDEN JUBILEE— SKETCH OF MARSHALL'S SURVIVING COMPAN-
IONS—COMPLETE MY AUTOBIOGRAPHY— MY SON HOMER ACCI-
DENTALLY KILLED— THE OLD FOLKS— PUBLICATION OF LIFE OF A
PIONEER— CONCLUSION.

TN response to the invitation from the Society of Cali-
fornia Pioneers, I left Salt Lake City on January 20,
1898, in company with Henry W. Bigler, Azariah Smith
and Wm. J. Johnston, who. like myself, were guests of the
Society. We reached Oakland, California, January 22, and
were met by Mr. John H.Jewett, president of the society,,
and a committee consisting of Messrs. John S. Hittell, Al-
marin B. Paul. General Wm. H. Pratt, and Misses Anna P.
Green and Mary M. Green. The ladies pinned badges of
the Society of California Pioneers on the lapels of our coats.
We were received with the greatest cordiality, and were
taken to the Russ House, San Francisco, where we were
comfortably lodged, being shown special -consideration by
the proprietor and his amiable wife, and from that time on
we were given the best of attention. Nothing that could be

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 515

done was too good for us, and language fails to express
our high appreciation of the courtesy and kindness be-
stowed.

Whenever we attended any of the functions of Cali-
fornia's Golden Jubilee Celebration, or desired to visit a
place, carriages were at our service. January 24th was the
fiftieth anniversary of the discovery of gold at Sutter's mill
race, and there was a magnificent pageant in celebration of
the event. We occupied the post of distinction in the pro-
cession, our carriage bearing the legend, "Companions of
Marshall." We were the only survivors of that notable oc-
casion, fifty years before. The place of honor was also
accorded to us at the celebration ceremonies in the evening
at Wood's Pavilion, and on the 27th we were at a recep-
tion in Pioneer Hall, and greeted the multitudes, old and
young, anxious to see and shake hands with us; and at the
Mining Fair our treatment was characterized by the same
cordial and distinguished welcome. The celebration cere-
monies lasted the entire week. When at our hotel we were
besieged by reporters, and hundreds of people called to see
us, and get our autographs. Our photographs also were
taken for the Society of Pioneers.

Outside of the celebration proper, there was the same
magnanimous kindness. I could not name all the citizens
who extended to us marked courtesies, but feel that I must
specially mention Captain John T. McKenzie of the steamer
San Rafael, who was very attentive, also Hon. Irving Scott,
manager of the great Union Iron Works, at which place we
had a particularly interesting visit and entertainment.

Two of my companions started home on January 31st,
and the third on February 2nd. I stayed a few days longer,
visiting my brother at Petaluma. I also went to many other
places of interest, then returned home, all expenses of my
journey being provided. A few days later I received the
following:

516 life of a pioneer.

"Executive Department, the Society of California
Pioneers, No. 5, Pioneer Place, San Francisco,
California,

"February 9, 1898.
"James S. Brown, Esq,, Salt Lake City, Utah:

"Dear Sir: I have the honor of advising you that at
the monthly meeting of the members of the Society held at
Pioneer Hall on Monday, February 7, 1898, the following
resolutions were unanimously adopted:

" Whereas, The Golden Jubilee just passed marks the
second grand event as connected with the first discovery of
gold in California, and as all pioneers feel gratified at the
universal desire of the people to pay tribute to the pioneer
days, now be it

"Resolved, That the Society of California Pioneers ten-
ders its thanks to the press generally; to the state and city
officials; to the military as a body; to the various mining
associations; to the Native Daughters and Native Sons of
the Golden West, and to the man}r other organizations that
participated in making the grand pageant of January 24th
a splendid success. And be it further

"Resolved, That the thanks of this society are also ten-
dered to Henry W. Bigler, James S. Brown, Wm. J. John-
ston and Azariah Smith, the companions of Marshall, in
lending their presence for the Jubilee; and especially do we
appreciate the efforts and labors of the executive committee
of the Golden Jubilee, and we also return thanks to the
Southern Pacific Company for complimentary passes to the
four companions of Marshall to and from San Francisco and
Ogden, also for its liberal contribution to ihe Golden Jubilee
held under auspices of the society; and also to Irving
M. Scott on part of the Union Iron Works, for the invita-
tion to the companions of Marshall and members of this
Society to visit the works, and the placing at our disposal
their tug for the trip, and further for the many courtesies

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 517

extended to all by the several officers connected with the

works while there.

"J. H. Jewett, President.

On February 20th this note came:

"1 316 Hyde Street, San Francisco,

"February 18, 1898.
"Jkfr. James S. Brown:

"Dear Sir: Your letter of the 16th inst, with the news
that you had arrived safely at home, has given me pleasure.
I felt some responsibility for my part in bringing four old
men so far away from home, but now that I know all have
arrived in good health at Salt Lake, I congratulate myself
that events have turned out so favorably. I have had no
letter from Mr. Bigler or Mr. Smith, but they will write
to me.

"I spoke promptly to Mr. Spear, the secretary, about
sending fifteen dollars to pay for the expenses of your re-
turn trip, and I understood him to promise that the money
would be transmitted to you by check.

"The Pioneer Society will long preserve a pleasant
recollection of the participation of the four companions of
Marshall in our Jubilee celebration, and personally I shall
always be glad to hear of their welfare.

"Yours truly,

"John S. Hittell."

Here is the closing communication in relation to my
latest visit to California and the occasion which caused it:

"San Francisco, March 9, 1898.
uMr. James S. Brown, Salt Lake City:

"Dear Sir: Enclosed please find a copy of the re-
port of the reception committee of the Golden Jubilee:

' ' To John H. Jewett, President oj the California Pioneers :
"The reception committee appointed by the Society

518 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

to receive its guests attending the celebration of the Golden
Jubilee on the 24th of January last, begs leave to report that
its task has been completed.

"On the morning of January 22nd all the members of
the committee received and welcomed the four companions
of Marshall on the overland train at Oakland, and escorted
them to the Russ House, where, under the direction of
President John H. Jewett, they were provided with comfort-
able accommodations.

"These four men, the only survivors of those who
were with Marshall at Coloma when he discovered gold
there on Monday, the 24th of January, 1848, are:

"1. Henry W. Bigler, born in Harrison County, West
Virginia, August 28th, 1S15, who in his diary made the
only written record of the gold discovery on the day of its
occurrence. He is now a resident of St. George, Utah.

"2. Azariah Smith, born at Boylston, New York, on
the 1st of August, 1828, who, on the first Sunday after the
discovery, wrote in his diary that gold had been found in
the preceding week.

"3. James S. Brown, born in Davison County, North
Carolina, on the 4th of July, 1828, who recollects that on
the evening of January 24th, 1848, H. W. Bigler said he
would write in his diary that something like gold had been
discovered, as it might be important some day. He re-
sides in Salt Lake City.

"4. Wm. J.Johnston, born near New Baltimore, Ohio,
on the 21st of August, 1824, and now resides in Ramah,
New Mexico.

"These four men are all clear in mind, and for their
years, strong and active in body.

"In the procession on the 24th they occupied a carriage
marked 'Companions of Marshall.' On the evening of that
day. they were entertained in our hall with special honor,
and two days later they held a reception in the same place.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF JAMES S. BROWN. 519

"Various members of our .Society, and especially Captain
McKenzie, showed them much attention. They were guests
of honor at the Mining Fair on the opening evening. Hon.
Irving M. Scott, manager of the Union Iron Works, gave
them a special entertainment at his shipyard; and other
citizens contributed to make their stay in our city pleasant.
The whole Jubilee week was a round of festivity for them.
"Messrs. Bigler and Smith were escorted to their re-
turning train at Oakland on the 31st of January, Mr.
Johnston two days later, and Mr. Brown in the next suc-
ceeding week. They all reached their homes safely, and
all have written to members of the committee acknowledg-
ing the attention and honor shown to them by the Society
of California Pioneers.

"As they are the only persons now living who saw
gold in the days of its discovery, their attendance at our
semi-centennial celebration connected our Jubilee in a high-
ly interesting manner with the great event which it commem-
orated. We may add that personal acquaintance with
these venerable men has been a source of pleasure to all
members of this committee, as well as to many other Pio-
neers.

"Respectfully submitted,

"John S. Hittell, Chairman.

"Almarin B. Paul,

"W. H. Pratt."

Upon my return home, I again gave attention to this
autobiography, which proved no light task, as my health
has been far from good.

On the 14th of December, 1899, a keen sorrow came
to myself and family. My son Homer, in his twenty-sixth
year, died on that date, as a result of injuries received at a
cave-in at the Silver King mine, Park City, Utah, three
weeks before. When war broke out between Spain and
the United States in 1898, he enlisted in response to Presi-

520 LIFE OF A PIONEER.

dent McKinley's call for volunteers, and became a member
of Troop C, Utah Volunteer Cavalry. After his return
from California, where the cavalry was sent, he was mar-
ried, the event occurring two months before the accident
which cost him his life. On December 19, he was buried
in Salt Lake City, the funeral services being held at the
Seventeenth Ward assembly rooms.

In the summer of 1898, I was added to the list of
Utah's Old Folks, attending the excursion to Lagoon,
Davis County, in July, 1898, to Geneva, Utah County, in
July, 1899, anc* aSam at Lagoon on July 6, 1900. The
Old Folks include all people over seventy years of age, in-
dependent of creed, race or color; these are accorded re-
ceptions, excursions, and similar happy courtesies, as marks
of honor and respect to the aged. The central committee
having this highly appreciated undertaking in charge has
for its chairman the Presiding Bishop of the Church of
Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.

By the close of 1899, I had completed the preparation
of my life's history for publication in a neat volume, and
soon thereafter arranged for the printing, which at this
date, July, 1900, is accomplished. Now that I have reached
the seventy-second annual milestone of my life, I realize
that the period for especially notable or thrilling events in
my mortal career is past; and in the publication of my auto-
biography, I sincerely trust that this humble final extended
labor on my part will achieve the principle aim of its per-
formance, that of doing good to those who live after me, in
the witness its record bears of the mercy, power, and good-
ness of God, and the latter-day progress of His great and
loving design for the blessing and salvation of His children.
With this attainment, the influence of the record, Life of a
Pioneer, will be in accord with the sincere desire and
earnest effort of my soul throughout life.

'»

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Brigham Young University