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Life of Sir Roderick I. Murchison, Bart.,; K.
C. B., F. R. S.; Sometime ...
Archibald Geikie
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LIFE
OF
SIR RODERICK I. MURCHISON.
VOL.1.
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LIFE
OF
SIR RODERICK I. MURCHISON
BABT. ; K.aB., F.B.8. ; BOMBTDCE DIBEOTOR-OKNEBAL OF THB OEOLOOIOAL
SUBYET OF THB UMITED KINODOlf.
BASED ON HIS JOURNALS AND LETTERS
WITJI NOTICES OF HIS SCIENTIFIC CONTEMPORARIES
AND A SKETCH OF THE RISE AND GROWTH OF
PALAEOZOIC GEOLOGY IN BRITAIN
BY ARCHIBALD GEIKIE, LL.D., F.RS.
mKBCTOB OF ELM. QEOLOQICAL SUBVBT OV SOOTLAND, AHD MimCHiaON PBOFE880R OF GKOLOOT
AND mVERALOOT IIT THK UIOVBBSITT OV BDINBUitaH.
IN TWO VOLUMES— VOL. L
Illnstrateir tiitfi ^ortTaits anir QIEooticnU
^LONDON
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET
18 75.
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PREFACE.
Compared with foregoing periods of history, the
nineteenth century has been marked by the extent
and rapidity of its social transitions. These must
imdoubtedly be ascribed m great measure to the
strides made by the physical sciences. Without
claiming for Geology any prominent share in them,
we may yet contend that this branch of science has
done much to open out those wider views of natiure
and of man's place here, which have so powerfully
influenced the tone and tendency of human thought
and speculation at the present time. So that the
history of a man who was a conspicuous actor in the
drama of the establishment of Geology, as a science,
may possess more than a merely individual interest.
The life of Sir Roderick Murchison was cast in
this time of notable transition. Living on terms
of intimacy with not a few of the leading men of his
day, he himself bore a part in the leavening of the
community with an appreciation of the nature and
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vi PREFACE.
value of science. For many years he was in the
habit of keeping a record of the events which he
witnessed, or in which he took part. In the belief
that the story of his life might have some interest
and nseftJness for those who should succeed him,
he used now and then during his later years to de-
vote his spare hours to the task of reading over his
early journals, and superintending their transcrip-
tion in whole or in abstract under his own eye.
In the course of time a goodly series of closely-
written voliunes grew imder the hand of the amanu-
ensis, but their author at length perceived that their
details could hardly possess sufficient interest for
general readers. In the spring of 1871 he pro-
posed to me that I should imdertake the task of
reducing his memoranda into a connected narrative.
Having accepted the office of biographer, I found
that, in addition to the journals, there existed a vast
mass of miscellaneous letters and papers going back
even into last century. It appeared that Sir
Roderick for many years of his life never destroyed
any piece of writing addressed to him, — ^notes of
invitation to dinner, and acceptances of invitations
given by himself, being abundant among the papers.
To these materials, through the kindness of his
friends and correspondents, to all of whom sincere
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PREFACK vii
thanks are due, I was subsequently enabled to add
a large series of his own lettera
From the first it appeared likely that no narrative
devoted merely to the personal events of Sir
Roderick Murchison's life would be satisfactory.
And as the work of arranging the volumino\is mate-
rials proceeded, the desirability of adopting a wider
treatment became increasingly evident. His life,
closely bound up with the early progress of geology
in this country, was one of work and movement.
Duly to follow its stages, the surroundings among
which it was passed must be constantly kept in
view, — ^notably his comrades, their work, and its
relation to his own. Accordingly I deemed it best,
while keeping his story prominently before the
reader, to give an outline of so much at least of
these surroundings as would probably show with
adequate distinctness what Murchison was, and
what he did. With this view I have sketched some
of the more salient featiures in the rise and growth
of the geology of the older formations in Britain,
including, at the same time, notices of Murchison's
predecessors and contemporaries in the same branch
of science. Obviously, however, even such a general
outline as was alone admissible into a work like
the present could not be continued into the later
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viii PREFACE.
years when Murchison ceased to be the same pro-
minent worker he had previously been, and when
his labours were taken up and extended by others.
To this historical aspect of the book, I believed
that some additional interest might be given
by a selection of portraits of some of the more
conspicuous men to whom the establishment and
spread of geology in Britain is due, more especially
with reference to the study of the older rocks.
Some difficulty was necessarily encountered in
making the selection, arising in some cases from
the want of available materials for the engraver,
in others from the limited number of portraits
admissible compared with that of the geologists
deserving such recognition. Greenough, Fitton, and
Lonsdale, for example, among the earlier luminaries,
might have been most appropriately included in
the list here given. To the friends who have
supplied the paintings, drawings, and photographs
from which this little gallery of scientific worthies
has been engraved, my best acknowledgments are
gladly given.
Of Murchison's early contemporaries who outlived
him, and from whom assistance was received in
the preparation of his biography, two of the
most ill\istrio\is have since been removed by deatL
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PREFACE. ix
Sir Charles Lyell fiimished a series of letters on
geological topics written to him by Murchison.
Professor Phillips, besides supplying a large and
most interesting collection of letters, which proved
of great service in the preparation of the biography,
kindly sent some memoranda of his own, which will
be found incorporated in the book. To Mr. Poulett
Scrope I am indebted for some interesting and useful
notes respecting some of the older geologists of this
country.
My friend and colleague, Professor A. C. Ramsay,
has laid me imder much obligation by the notes
and suggestions sent by him as he read over the
proof-sheets, and which are incorporated into the
text or embodied here and there in footnotes. To
Mr. John Murray, Mr. K. R. Murchison, Mr. Tren-
ham Reeks, and Professor T. Rupert Jones, F.R.S.,
my thanks are likewise owing for a similar revision.
For the loan of letters written by Sir Roderick
Murchison, acknowledgment is further due to Mr.
Aveline, His Excellency Sir Henry Barkly, M.
Barrande, Dr. Corbet, Lady Denison, Sir Charles
Dilke, Sir Philip De Grey Malpas Egerton, Bart. ;
Professor George Forbes, who supplied letters
written to his father, Principal Forbes; Professor
Johnstrup of Copenhagen, who sent a series of letters
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X PREFACE.
addressed to the late Professor Forchliammer ; Cap-
tain Grant, Professor Harkness, Professor Hughes,
who fiimished the letters written to Sedgwick;
Professor Hull, Major-General Sir Henry James,
Mr. Martin, Mr. Hugh Miller, who procured a
series of letters written to his father ; Mr. K. R
Murchison, Mr. Murray, Mr. Lyon Playfair, C.B.,
M.P. ; Professor Eamsay, Rev. Mr. Symonds, Mr.
Todhunter, from whom came the letters addressed
to Dr. Whewell.
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CONTENTS OF VOL. I.
CHAPTER L
ANCESTRY-flCHOOL-DAYS, 1
CHAFTEB n.
FIBST YEARS OF A SOLDIER'S LIFE, . .16
CHAPTER in.
SIX MONTHS OF THE PENINSULAR WAR, .... 28
CHAPTER IV.
MILITARY LIFE AT HOME, 65
CHAPTER V.
ITALY AND ART, .78
CHAPTER VI.
FIVE YEARS OF FOX-HUNTING, 88
CHAPTER VII.
RISE OF GEOLOGY IN BRITAIN, 96
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xii CONTENTS OF VOL. I.
CHAPTER Vra.
PAOI
FIBST TEARS OF SCIENTIFIC LIFE AT HOME, .117
CHAPTER IX.
FIRST GEOLOGICAL RATOS INTO THE CONTINENT, . . 146
CHAPTER X.
THE INVASION OF GRAUWACKE, 172
CHAPTER XL
THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY, AND SOCLAX LIFE IN LONDON, IM
CHAPTER Xn.
THE SILURLAIJ SYSTEM, 216
CHAPTER XIIL
THE DEVONIAN SYSTEM .244
CHAPTER XrV.
A GEOLOGICAL TOUR IN NORTHERN RUSSIA, ... 289
CHAPTER XV.
CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN RUSSIA, AND THE URAL MOUN-
TAINS, 815
CHAPTER XVI.
THE CHAIR OF THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY, . . 858
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOL. L
PORTRAIT OP SIR RODERICK MURCHISON, from a Por-
trait by Pickeragai,
FronHipiece,
TARRADALE, ROSS-SHIRE, Sir Roderick Marchi8on*8 Birth-
place, . io/acepoffi 10
JAMES HUTTON, M.D., from a Portrait by Sir Henry Rae-
bTtm, in the possession of Sir George Warrender, Bart,
PROFESSOR ROBERT JABfESON, from a Miniature in the
possession of Dr. Claud Muirhead, Edinburgh,
REV. WILLIAM D. CONTBEARE, from a Photograph in the
possession of the Family,
WILLIAM HTDE WOLLASTON, BID., fh>m a Drawing by
Sir Thomas Lawrence,
REV. PROFESSOR ADAM SEDGWICK, from a Photograph,
WILLIAM SMITH, LL;D., firom the engraving of the Portrait
byFoureau,
JOHN MACCULLOCH, M.D., from a Portrait by R. B.
Faulkner,
PROFESSOR JOHN PLAYFAIR, firom a Picture by Sir Hemy
Raebum,
REV. PROFESSOR WILLIAM BUCKLAND, from a Sketch
by Thomas Sopwith, Esq.,
108
116
129
138
190
202
225
809
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^» CHAPTER L
ANCESTRT — SCHOOL-DAYS.
A MONG the Western Highlands of Scotland there is no
"^^ wilder tract than that which stretches between the
Kyles of Skye and the line of the Great Glen. From the
margin of the western sea the ground rises steeply into rugged
mountains^ which slope away eastward through many miles
of rough moorland into the very heart of the country. The
bold Atlantic front of these mountains is trenched by deep
and narrow valleys, of which the upper parts rise above the
sea-level into dark and rocky glens, the lower portions sink-
ing under the water and forming the characteristic sea-lochs
or fjords of that region. In the shelter of these hollows,
alike in the glens, and as an irregular selvage along the
margins of the lochs, lie strips of arable land with farm-
houses and the cots of the peasantry; but all above and
around are the wild rough hiUs, shrouded for great part of
the year in mist, and catching the first dash of the fierce
western rains, which seam their sides with foaming torrents.
Even now, with all the appliances of modem travel, these
tracts of Lochalsh and Kintail are little known, except in so
^Q VOL. I. A
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2 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N.
far as they can be seen from the sea, or firom the few good
roads which have been made through them. But some five or
six generations back they were to all intents as remote from
the civilisation even of the Scottish Lowlands as if they had
lain in the heart of Eussia. No roads led across them then.
They could be traversed only by bridle-tracks, too little
trodden to be always easily traced among the bogs and
crags over which they lay. Notwithstanding the noble
inlets which bring the tides of the Atlantic far into these
wUds, there was then but little navigation, even of the
simplest kind. Save the boats used in ferrying the lochs
and in fishing, almost the only vessels ever seen were the
smacks and cutters which from time to time smuggled ashore
brandy and claret for the lairds.
Over this wild region the chiefs of the clan Mackenzie
had for a long while held sway — a fierce and warlike race,
exemplifjring on their territory the curiously mingled merits
and defects of the old Highland patriarchal system. In
their midst, however, lay one or two smaller septs, some-
times in league with the dominant clan, sometimes in open
arms on the side of their surrounding enemies. One of these
septs went by the name of Mhurachaidh or Macmhurachaidh,
that is, Murdoch or Murdochson, or, as it is now corrupted,
Murchison. The first of the family must have been a
Murdoch. Who he was, however, where he came from, and
what he did to distinguish himself &om the other abounding
Murdochs of that part of Scotland, are questions to which
no satisfactory answer seems now possible. Perhaps he was
one of the Mackenzies, or more probably of the Mathiesons,
or clan Malghamna, who possessed these tracts before the
Mackenzies, and among whom Murdoch was a frequent
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ANCESTRY. 3
name.^ He may have been noted above his fellows for some
characteristic^ so that his posterity came to be called after
him.
In the early part of the sixteenth century we find the
Mnrchisons in possession of land in KintaiL In the year
1641, Evin M^Kynnane Murchison was proprietor of Bun-
chrew when he obtained a remission from James v. for
having taken an active part, together with some of his neigh-
bours, in burning the castle of Eilandonan, the stronghold
of the Mackenzies, at the mouth of Loch Duich. It has
been conjectured by a Mendly genealogist, that for such
deeds the sept received the soubriquet of " Chalmaon,'* or
" brave ;" and that this title led to their being confounded
with certain M'Colmans of Aigyleshire.' There must at least
have been a wonderful versatility about the race, for not
many years after the raid on the Mackenzies, when the
Beformation had already made way through the countiy^
the churches of Kintail, Lochcarron, and Lochalsh were in
peaceable possession of different members of the family.'
In the following century (1634) the Murchisons appear on
the Boss-shire rent-roll as holding land in Lochalsh, of which
they had obtained charters from the Crown. By this time,
1 This saggestion has been made to me by Mr. W. F. Skene, who
adds that " the small septs are often the remnants of the older popula-
tion.**
' In the North-West Highlands the Mnrchisons are called in Gaelic
H'Colman, and have been traced by some genealogists to an origin in
Aigyleshire, where a sept of that name oconrs. The family traditions,
however, insist on a more northern origin, as stated in the text.
' In 1574, James yl presented John Murchesonn " to the haill com*
monn kirk, baith parsonage and vicarage, of KintaiL** In 1582 the same
King presented Donald Mnroheson to the same church, then vacant by
the demission of John Mnrcheson, and Master Murdo Morcheson to the
parsonage of Lochalsh and Lochcarron. — Register of Great Seal For these
references I am indebted to the courtesy of Mr. Skene.
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4 SIB RODERICK MURCHISON.
too, ihey seem to have settled their differences with the
Mackenzies of Seaforth, for they then held rank as hereditary
castellans of that same Eilandonan stronghold which about
a hundred years earlier they had assisted to demolish.
It is not, however, until the troublous times of 1715 that
any member of the Murchison sept comes notably forward
in Highland history. Up till that period the people of these
wilds remained under the same clan-system which had
prevailed from the earliest times. The word of their chiefi9
was their law, and they had but a feeble notion of any
higher rule or greater authority outside the dominions of the
clan. While this ancient obedience and attachment con-
tinued on the part of the vassals, the chiefs themselves were
more or less influenced by somewhat similar feelings towards
the old line of the Stuarts. A new race of sovereigns had
been installed by Southern and Saxon hands. It was re-
garded by these mountaineers with distrust and fear. They
had no great cause to look back with satisfaction to their
treatment imder the sway of the fallen house. But thei*e
appeared more risk than ever of molestation from the new
and alien rulers ; and so, partly from loyalty to the Stuarts,
and partly from distrust of the Hanoverian dynasty, there
existed at this time among the Highlanders a wide-spread
disaffection and longing for a restoration.
At last these feelings found vent in open insurrec-
tion, and the outbreak of 1715 began. Among the chiefs
who appeared in arms came the Earl of Seaforth, head
of the Mackenzie clan. With him marched a gallant
company of Murchisons, including two of note, John and
Donald, imcle and nephew, the former bearing a commission
in the Prince's army, and bringing with him all the men he
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ANCESTRY. S
could muster in Lochalsh, the latter holding rank as colonel^
his commission having been sent over by the Pretender
himself in a quaint large ivory " snuflf-mull," inscribed with
the words " James Eex. Fobwabd and Spabb Not." ^
Among those who fell in the disastrous battle of Sheriff-
muir was the great-grandfather of the subject of this bio-
graphy. Colonel Donald^ however, made good his escape,
and soon afterwards appeared in his native district, where,
amid narrow inlets and bays, rough glens and lonely moors,
he could bid defiance to the conquerors.
Donald Murchison was certainly one of the most remark-
able Highlanders of his day.^ Bred a lawyer at Edinburgh,
he united to the usual warlike virtues of the clansman a
shrewdness and knowledge of the world, which gave him
(considerable influence as the agent and friend of the Earl
of Seaforth. After the battle of Sheriffmuir, when the
Earl went into exile in France, Donald appears to have
gone back to the mountains of EJntaiL Doubtless, in
1719, he took his share in the rude fortifying of Eilandonan
Castle, of which, as we have seen, his family had been here-
ditary castellans, and saw with dismay its walls battered
to pieces by the guns of three English war -vessels. Nor
was he likely to be absent &om his chief when the luckless
expedition of Spanish auxiliaries and Highlanders, marching
eastward for the invasion of the countiy, encamped in Glen-
^ This box WM in the poaaession of Sir Boderiok up to the time of his
death, and ii now one of the family heirlooms in the keeping of his
nephew and heir, Mr. K. B. Mnrchison. It forms a oonspicnoos feature
in the picture of ** Donald Mnrchison gathering Seaforth's rents in Kin-
tail," painted for him by Sir Edwin Landseer, and bequeathed by him to
the National Gallery at Edinburgh.
' For an account of him see Chambers's Dcmestk AnmU qf Scotland,
Tol. iii
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6 SIR ROBERT MURCHISON.
shieL Seaforth escaped wounded, and Donald was not
among the prisoners.
The Seaforth estates were forfeited, but they lay in so
remote and inaccessible a region that the Commissioners of
the Forfeited Estates only in 1721 were able to procure a
factor bold enough to march westward to take possession of
them. Donald Murchison, however, had been intrusted
with their keeping by him whom he and all the n&tive popu-
lation still regarded as the rightful laird. Hearing of the
approach of the new fjtctor with a body of the King's troops,
he attacked them as they toiled through one of the savage
glens of the district, and not only stopped their further pro-
gress, but compelled the factor to give a bond of £500 that
he would never again attempt to carry out his duties in that
quarter. That he might have additional sanction for his
own proceedings, Donald even extorted authority fix)m the
unfortunate official to act as deputy-factor for the Com-
missioners of Forfeited Estates, so that he could draw his
rents for the Earl either as the agent of the one Government
or of the other, as might be needful in each case.
Again, in the following year, a still larger party of sol-
diers made another attempt to gain possession of the rebel-
lious country. But once more Donald proved himself not
unworthy of the coloners commission and the ivory snuff-
mull. By a clever piece of strategy he discomfited this
new invasion, and forced it to retire to its starting-place at
Inverness.
For ten years Donald Murchison administered the Sea-
forth estates. Even after his successful resistance to the
royal troops, such was his boldness that he would go per-
sonally to Edinburgh to see after the proper transmission
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ANCESTRY. 7
of the rents to the banished and attainted EarL General
Wade, in reporting to George I. in 1725, writes that "the
rents [of the Seaforth lands] continue to be collected by one
Donald Murchison, a servant of the late Earl's, who remits
or carries the same to his master into France. . . . The last
year this Murchison marched in a public manner to Edin-
burgh to remit £800 to France, and remained fourteen days
there unmolested. I cannot omit observing to your Majesty
that this national tenderness the subjects of North Britain
have one for the other is a great encouragement for rebels
and attainted persons to return home from their banish-
ment." ^
Though the '' Coarnal," as Donald was called then, and
as he still lives in old Boss-shire story, preserved the estates
for the Seaforth family, risking often Us life in the service
of his master, the Earl, on regaining his position in his
native country, treated his faithful ally with injustice and
neglect Taking advantage of the lawlessness of the time,
he seized the charters and lands of the Murchisons. Donald,
finding reparation hopeless, and despairing of success in any
appeal to a Government which had no strong reason to be
very active on behalf of a man who had given it so much
trouble, retired to the east side of the island, and died of a
broken heart, childless and in poverty.* He was buried by
the Conon, but the memory of Us deeds still lingers among
the hills which he guarded so long and so well Nearly a
1 Wade*8 Beport, in Appendix to Bart's LeUera^ 2d edit (1822), ii.
p. 280.
' For these particulars I am indebted to Dr. Corbet of Beaoly, whose
grandfather was a grandson of Colonel Donald's brother, and who has
made the family genealogy a matter of investigation. See also Chambers,
op, cU,, and Anderson's SeoUish NaUon, voL iii p. 731.
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8 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON.
century and a half after he had passed away, a monument
was raised to him by his kinsman, Sir Roderick Murchison ;
and now, as the tourist sails through the narrow Kyles of
Skye, and marks on one hand the mouldering barracks of
the Hanoverian soldiery, on the other the crumbling walls
of the castle of Eilandonan, a granite obelisk on one of the
headlands of Lochalsh recalls to him the deeds of one of
the most disinterested men of that wild time.
Donald's brother, Murdoch, raised an action at law for
recovery of the charters ; but the renewed outbreak of 1745
came on. He took part in it, and died from the effects of
wounds received at Culloden. Thus the action disappeared,
and so did the ancestral property of the Murchisons.^
John Murchison, farmer at Auchtertyre, in Lochalsh, Sir
Eoderick's great-grandfather, has been already referred to as
one of those who fell at Sheriflfmuir. Traditions still linger
in the north as to his feats of strength; one large stone,
in particular, weighing about half a ton, being pointed out
as having been carried by him for some distance to form
part of a wall which he needed to build on his farm.
Of Alexander, grandfather of Sir Roderick, little has been
handed down. He continued to rent the farm of Auchtertyre,
^ Sir Roderick was never able aocarately to trace his relationship to
Colonel Donald. He seems to have regarded the hero as his great-grand-
nnde, but the connexion was yet more distant. His grandfather was a
third coiisin of the Colonel, so that his own kinship was of that shadowy
kind in which Highland genealogists delight Sir Roderick belonged thus
to an offiBhoot from the main stem of the Morchisons in whose hands the
little paternal property had been. His grandfather's great-grandfather
had owned it. — It^ormatum from Dr, CorbeU
Both Boswell and Br. Johnson, in their narratives of their tonr in the
Hebrides, refer with gratitude to the attention shown to them by a Mr.
Murchison, factor for the laird of Macleod, in Glenelg, who sent them a
bottle of rum, and an apology for not being able to entertain them in his
house.
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ANCESTRY. 9
and had to straggle with but slender means ; yet, like his
predecessors who had not fallen in fight, he reached a good
old age, living on even till he was ninety-nine, and saw the
fortunes of the family retrieved by his eldest son, Kenneth,
whom he actually outlived.
It was in the year 1751 that this Kenneth came into
the world at Auchtertyre. He studied Medicine at the
Colleges of Glasgow and Edinburgh, took the diploma of
the Boyal College of Suigeons in London, and while still
a young man went out as suigeon to India, where he
remained for seventeen years. A lucrative appointment
at Lucknow enabled him to amass a competent fortune,
with which, coming home again about the year 1786,
he not long afterwards purchased from his maternal uncle,
Mackenzie of Lentron, the small estate of Tarradale, in the
eastern part of the county of Boss. He appears to have
been a man of much force of character, a thorough Celt,
generous, yet with enough of worldly wisdom to keep him
from losing his possessions as his forefathers had done. He
wrote his journals in Gaelic, but used the Gieek characters,
which he held to express the sound of his native tongue better
than Soman letters could do. Having gratified the ambi-
tion, so common in Scotland, to become a laird, he kept up old
Highland ways, and as long as he lived at Tarradale had as
one of his retainers a piper, who also played the harp. Fond
of antiquities, he devoted himself to those of Tarradale and
its neighbourhood, and made a collection of urns and other
objects found in tumuli and elsewhere on the estate. He
was one of the original members of the Highland Society of
London, and a warm friend of the scheme of the British
Fisheries for the employment of the people of the Western
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10 SIE RODERICK MURCHISON. [itms.
Highlands and Islands. In those days doctors were scarce in
the Highlands, hence Dr. Murchison's house formed a centre
of attraction to the sick and maimed for many miles round.
As he took no fees, his populcurity became more wide-spread
than was wholly pleasant, so that in the end he set on foot
an agitation which resulted in the erection of the present
Northern Infirmary at Inverness.
In the year 1791 he married the daughter of Mackenzie
of Fairbum, lineal representative of the Eory More or Big
Eoderick Mackenzie to whom these estates had been granted
by James v. She — as well as her brother, of whom more
will be told in later pages — was born in the old tower of
Fairbum, the characteristic Highland fortalice of the sept,
guarding the entrance of one of the glens which open upon
the lowlands of the Black Isle.
The first-fruits of this marriage appeared at Tarradale, on
the 19th of February 1792, when the subject of this memoir
saw the light. He received the name of Boderick, after his
maternal grandfather, Boderick Mackenzie of Fairbum, a
jolly old laird, who lived for more than ninety years, al-
though, as he used to say of himself, in regard to whisky,
claret, or other potations, he was " a perfect sandbank."^ A
second name was giveli to the boy — that of Impey, after Sir
Elijah Impey, an intimate friend of his father's.'
For three years the family continued to reside at Tarra-
1 This expression has been handed down by Sir Boderick Mnrchison.
With reference to it Dr. Corbet informs me that he is himself in posses-
sion of old Fairburn's silver quaioh or drinking-cnp, and that it does not
hold more than an ordinary wine-glass. Bat of coarse the size of the cap
telk OS nothing as to how often it was replenished.
* Tn one of Sir Boderick's journals the foUowing notice occars bearing
upon this period of his life : — ** Old John Gladstone's wife was the dearest
friend my poor mother had. She was a Miss Annie Bobertson, daughter
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T'< fucf puffe 10.
TARRADALE, B0SS-8HIB£, TUB BIKTUPLACE OP SIR RODERICK MURCHISUN.
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1788-5.] ANCESTRY. 11
dala This period, however, was too brief to fix any eariy
Highland impressions on the memory of the future geologist,
although he used afterwards to say that he ought to have his
Celtic proclivities fully developed, for he had been nursed
by the " sonsie " miller's wife of Tarradale, who hushed him
to sleep with (Jaelic lullabies, and no doubt, after the fashion
of the country, gave him now and then, when he whimpered,
a taste of the famous whisky distilled on the adjoining
lands of Ferrintosh.
These three years of infancy formed the only prolonged
residence which Sir Boderick Murchison ever made in the
Highlands, His later visits were only for a few weeks at a
time^ in summer or autumn. That early stay at Tarradale
might have been indefinitely prolonged, so as to change the
whole tenor of his life, had his father's health continued good.
A delicacy, however, brought on probably by his Indian
experiences, induced Mr. Murchison to quit his northern
home for a milder residence in the south of England.
Among the earliest recollections which his son Boderick
retained was one dating from the time of this southward
migration. These were the days of highwaymen, and the
party had journeyed armed. The father, always anxious
that his son and heir should be a manly little fellow, pre-
sented one day a pistol at his head, bidding him stand fira
His wife, fortunately, was sitting by and snatched away
of the Provost of Dingwall, Boss-shire. When my father married he pro-
posed that the bride's great friend and bridesmaid should stay with them.
Finding that she was in very delicate health, he attended to all her ail-
ments for a year or more, and when I was brooght into the world, the first
yonng lady's lap on which I was dandled was that of the mother of the
present Chancellor of the Exchequer. She has often told me this herself,
and has expressed how much she owed to my father for his kind medical
attention."
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12 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [vm^
the child, when the pistol, which was not supposed to be
loaded, went off, and a volley of slugs passed through the
window.
In a jotting found among his papers, and bearing date
August 14th, 1854, the son thus recalls the memoiy of his
parents : — " My father was a good violin-player, and had a
fine Cremona, on which he brought out his native and
Jacobite airs with much feeling; whilst my mother, dear
soul, though never a skilful musician, played her reels on
the harpsichord with so much point and zest that even now
I can bring her full to my mind's eye whilst I was dancing
my first Highland fling to the tunes of 'Caber Fey* or
' Tulloch Gorum/"
The change from Tarradale to the south of England did
not avert the malady from which the invalid was suffering.
He died in the year 1796. Of his closing days the follow-
ing notes have been penned by his son : — " A recollection of
him, doubtless often since brought to my memoiy by my dear
mother, is that while my father was in the last stage of the
disorder (liver-complaint and dropsy) of which he died, my
little brother and self were sent from Bath to the then
sequestered village of Bathampton, where he took leave of
us. The opening of the red damask curtains of the lofty
old-fashioned bed, the last kiss of my dying parent, and the
form of the old-fashioned edifice to which the invalid had
been removed, have been stereotyped in my mind.**
On the death of her husband, Mrs. Murchison moved
with her two boys to Edinburgh, where she took the house
No. 26 George Street^ As soon as age allowed they were
^ The younger son, Kennetli, became Governor of Singapore, and after-
wards of Penang.
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iwi] SOHOOL'DAYS. 13
placed under the instructions of Bishop Sandford. Most of
the Jacobites being either Catholics or Episcopalians, she
found herself among Mends in the small gathering which
the disestablished Charch could muster at that time in the
metropolis of the north. Two years before his death her
elder son revisited the little chapel near Charlotte Square to
which his mother used to bring him. The lapse of more
than seventy years had not wiped away the recollection of
these early days, and he could yet recall how, one Sunday,
their fat little cook Peggie, having incautiously ventured
westward to her mistress's chapel, returned abruptly to the
house, inveighing with indignation at the profanity of an
organ, " for she cou'dna bide to hae the house o' God turned
intil a playhouse."
The widow, still young and attractive, was not long in
finding a second husband in Colonel Eobert Macgregor
Murray, one of the younger brothers of the Chief of the
Macgregors. He, as well as his brothers, had been on inti-
mate terms with Mr. Murchison in India, so much so that
the Chief and his brother. Colonel Alexander, with Sir
Elijah Impey, were left as guardians to the two boys.
The marriage of his mother broke up the home-life of
yoimg Eoderick. Her husband was called to Ireland to
aid in suppressing rebellion there, and as she determined
to accompany him, it became necessary to place the boy,
now in his seventh year, at schooL Accordingly, in the
year 1799, he was sent to the grammeur-school of Durham.
More than half a century afterwards he spoke of the
pang of the parting &om his mother, and from Sally, the
Dorsetshire lass, to whose tuition he used to attribute the
English accent which he retained through life. Before
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14 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [iTW-
leaving Edinbuigh he could already read the newspapers
with emphasis, and recite various pieces of verse.
But now a new and sttange life opened out to him. At
Durham he was domiciled, with some twenty other boys, in
the house of one Wharton — a kindly man, who taught them
French, and who, though himself a strict Catholic, never
attempted to taint any of his pupils with a bias towards
Popery.
Six years passed away at Durham. They could hardly
be called years of study. The boy, indeed, toiled in
some fashion into the sixth book of the Iliad, crossed the
" pons" in Euclid, and picked up a little French, besides
the ordinary rudiments of an English education. But the
somewhat morose and severe manners of the head-master
were not of a kind to make learning pleasant. Kor in
the discipline of the school, stem enough in its way, and
often aided ^m a bundle of hazel rods, was there check
sufficient to control the waywardness of the wilder boys.
Among these Roderick, or " Dick," as they called him, was
always a ringleader. Breaking bounds was the least of his
ofiTences. Many an expedition did he lead against the town
boys, and when not engaged in actual offensive warfare, he
would be found drilling his school-fellows in military
exercises.
Pranks, too, of the dare-devil kind were a favourite
pastime. At one time he would be seen sitting on a pro-
jecting ornament or comer-spout of the highest tower of the
Cathedral, to the horror of his comrades, who lay down in
abject fright upon the "leads." He filled up more than
the usual list of boyish escapades with gunpowder and
on treacherous ice. The broken ground on which the
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1806.] SCHOOL-BAYS. 15
romantic old city of Durham stands lent itself eminently
to such feats. There was one exploit which deserves a pass-
ing mention, since it was, perhaps, his earliest attempt to
explore what lies imder ground. Just beyond the archway
leading to the Prebends' Bridge lay the open mouth of a
drain which had its other end on the banks of the Wear,
some hundred yards below. It had been a boast among the
boys to get down to the bottom of the vertical mouth. But
"Dick" one day undertook to force his way down the whole
length of the conduit to its farther opening at the side of
the river. Having dropt into his hole he soon found, as he
advanced on hands and knees, that to turn was impossible.
So, scaring many a rat by the way, he crept down, and at
last, with scratched skin and torn raiment, and probably
with what Trinculo styled " an ancient and fish-like smell,*'
he emerged to the light of day, amid the hurrahs of his
expectant school-fellows.
His stepfather and his mother, during part of his stay at
Durham, rented Newton House, near Bedale, in the North
Biding, whither, in vacation-time, he repaired to exhaust him-
self in the delights, of a pony and terriers. There, too, it waa
that the military life distinctly shaped itself in his mind. His
maternal uncle. General Mackenzie of Fairbum, seeing his
active habits, told him that in due time he would make a
good soldier. "From that day," he remarks, "I read and
thought of nothing but military heroes."
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CHAPTEE II.
FIRST TEABS OF A SOLDIER'S LIFE.
The six years' schooling at Durham, such as it was,
fonned all the connected general education which Murchison
received, though he tried to supplement it after a fiashion a
couple of years later at Edinburgh. It was thought to be
amply sufficient as a groundwork for the profession of a
soldier; the more specisJ training needed for the military
life could be obtained elsewhere. Accordingly, in the year
1805, being now thirteen years of age, he was taken
to the Military College of Great Marlow. Late in life he
could recaU how his stepfather sang amusing songs to cheer
him on the way ; how, on arriving in London, they " were
quartered at the Spring Gardens coffeehouse;" and how
surprised he was to see, " in the box next to us, gloating
over his beefsteak and onions, the corpulent John, Duke of
Norfolk."
At Marlow his aptitude for study was not more
marked than it had been at Durham. His six books of
Homer and the Latin which had been flogged into him
were no help in aiding him to solve even simple questions
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iwa] FIRST TEARS OF A SOLDIERS LIFE. 17
in geometry and arittunetia He was rejected, or/ in the
language of Ids comrades, " spun,** and sent back to *^ mng/'
or study. " I could not do," he says, " the commonest
things in geometry, and was a bad arithmetician — a foible
which has remained with ma**
When at length he had passed as a Cadet, he contmued to
introduce a fair amount of firolic among his not very arduous
duties. C. 26 — for that was his number in the third com-
pany — ^became as conspicuous a ringleader among the boister*
ons youths at Marlow as he had already been among the
boys at Durham. He succeeded, however, at the same time,
in acquiring some military habits, and a slender knowledge
of tactics and drawing. He now, for the first time, had to
leam subjects really interesting to him, and, as he had
been formerly in the habit of drilling his school-fellows for
mere amusement, it was now a congenial and not very diffi-
cult task to become a good drill-serjeant From this time,
too, dates the development of that singular faculty he had
of grasping the main features of a district. His exercises in
military drawing at Marlow first drew out this faculty, and
led to the future rapidity and correctness of his '' eye for
a country," to which, in his scientific career, he owed so
mucL
As a reminiscence of these Marlow days he writes : —
** As each cadet cleaned his own shoes and belts, and black-
balled his own cartridge-box, we really knew what a soldier
ought to do. French polish was then unknown, and the
blacking which we bought of old * Drummer Cole' required
much elbow-grease to bring out the shine ; so that I shall
never forget, when the Duke of Kent (the father of our
gracious Queen) reviewed, us, how I admired his highly-
V0L.L B
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18 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [im
polished, well-made Hessian boots, and his tight-fitting white
leather pantaloons.''
Those who remember the veteran geologist in his later
days, and recall the military bearing which marked him up
to the last, will readily appreciate how strong an impress
these Marlow days left upon him. While a cadet he was
also somewhat of a dandy. He preserved memoranda of the
names of the titled people he met when he paid a visit ;
how he delighted in the " smart curricle" of one distinguished
acquaintance; how he rode ^the well-conditioned hunters
or chargers" of another ; how he dined at a fine old mansion
one day, and played at whist with the young aristocracy of
the place the next He had good opportunity for indulging
these tastes during a visit which he paid in 1806 to his
uncle. General Mackenzie, who was at that time command-
ing a militia force at HulL And yet other qualities of his
nature were also developing themselves. His uncle, who
kept a diary, made the following entry on 29th January
1806 : — ^** This day my dear nephew Roderick left me. He
is a charming boy, manly, sensible, generous, warm-hearted —
in short, possessing every possible good attribute. I think
he has also talents to make a figure in any profession. That
which he has chosen is a soldier. He goes back to Marlow
College on the dd of next month."
The following year, at the age of fifteen, he was gazetted
Ensign in the 36th regiment, but did no regimental duty for
some time after his appointment He writes of this epoch
in his life : — " For the first six months after I became an
officer I was supposed to be computing my studies! In
reality I was amusing myself with all sorts of dissipation at
Bath, where I passed my holidays driving ' tandems' and
wearing clanking spurs.
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1808.] FIRST TEARS OF A SOLDIERS LIFE. 19
** On leaving Marlow I was removed to Edinbuigh, where
my mother and relatives lived, and was placed in the house
of Mr, Alexander Manners, the respected Librarian of the
Faculty of Advocates, where I was associated with five or
six other youths all older than myself. Having a recruiting
party in the city under my orders, and with plenty of money
to spend and balls to dance at, it may be well conceived that
I did not gather together much knowledge. Still I picked
up a few crumbs, which were destined to produce some fruit
in after times. Unquestionably, this winter in Edinburgh
materially influenced my future character. For example, I
took lessons in French, Italian, German, and mathematics.
I also attended a debating club, and wrote (such as they
were) two essays on political subjects, of which of course I
was profoundly ignorant While the young powdered mili-
tary fop (pig-tails and powder were then in the ascendant)
afiected to despise all dominies and philosophers, I could
not be one of the table presided over by the bland and
courteous old Manners without picking up many useful
hints for future guidance.'*
Though he may have made some progress with his books
at Edinburgh, he does not appear to have been quite as sure
of his success in that way as he was of his mastery over the
kicking horse in Leatham's riding-schooL At the same time
he took lessons in thrusting and parrying with the foil
from an old French valet-de-chambre in the service of
the Comte d'Artois, afterwards Charles x., who was then
living in exile at Holyroodhouse. As the result of these
various accomplishments he came to have such a good opinion
of himself that when, at last, in the winter of 1807-8, he
joined his regiment at the barracks of Cork, great was his
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20 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. \im.
chagrin to find the officers very different from the high-
bred dandies he had expected them to be. They seem
to have been for the most part quiet, well-disciplined old
soldiers, who knew their work and did it, and who, more-
over, had seen a good deal of active service on the Continent,
in India, and in South America. He was no longer the
important personage he had lately been with the ''lecnuting
party under his orders." But in a little while he discovered,
that what his comrades lacked in outward show they more
than countervailed in the best qualities of soldiers. He found
that the regiment had been a favourite with Sir Arthur
Wellesley in India. His messmates could tell many a story
of the cool daring of their old Colonel, Eobert Bume ; how
he led his men at the storming of Seringapatam ; and how,
when at Buenos Ayres, the Spaniards had brought up eight
guns that completely enfiladed the road by which the British
force was retiring, he halted his brave fellows and said
quietly to them, — " Now, my lads, I 've come to lead you
once more to an assault. Ton see these guns I If we don't
take and spike them our raiment will be swept away;"
and then how he plucked a flower, and coolly placing it in
his button-hole, drew his sword, and in a qu8ui;er of an hour
had, vrith his grenadiers, spiked every gun and driven the
enemy back into the town.
Such tales vividly impressed the imagination of the
young Ensign. His ideal of a military hero had hitherto
been his handsome young uncle, Qeneral Mackenzie, in the
full blaze of martial uniform, and it was his ambition to
become the General's aide-de-camp. But he now came into
contact vrith a real tried hero, whom he thenceforth set up
as his model
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180&] FIRST TEARS OF A SOLDIER 8. LIFE. 21
Colonel Bume was an excellent specimen of a typ^ of
ofiScer now probably extinct. Cool and daring on the field
of battle^ he was a severe disciplinarian. His piercing dark-
brown eye proved quick to detect a careless pig-tail^ or a
failure of pipe-clay either in gloves or breeches.' He had
drilled his men to the most perfect precision after the
method then in vogue^ insomuch that his had become what
was called a " crack regiment" at the camp on the Curragh.
Sut with all this attention to the laborious system of trains
ing which prevailed in his time, he knew how to unbend
after his da/s work was past. At the mess-table he would
sit habitually firom five till ten o'clock, setting an example to
all his officers in the potation of port. He could not tolerate
a drunken man, and he despised a young fledgling Ensign to
whom illimitable draughts of his own favourite beverage
proved in any way disastrous. He himself never showed
any indication of being in the least degree affected, save that
*^ his nose was gradually assuming that purple colour and
bottle-shape which rendered him so conspicuous in the sub-
sequent Peninsular war." Such was the brave and jovial
leader whom the young Ensign of the 36th set before him-
self for imitation.
The regiment moved to Fermoy in the spring of 1808 ;
but shortly thereafter a small army of about eight thousand
men assembled at Cork for foreign servica Its destination
remained secret, though it was shrewdly suspected to be de-
signed for South America to retrieve there the honour of
the British arms. The charge of it was given to Sir Arthur
Wellesley, with Ceneral Mackenzie as his second in com-
mand. The latter resolved to take with him his nephew
Soderick as an extra aide-de-camp. Such a post had been
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22 SIR RODERICK MUROHISON'. {im.
the dream of the young Ensign's life ever since he had en-
tered on his military career, and it seems to have impressed
him more each time he saw his uncle in all the pomp of
command.
But the projects both of uncle and nephew were rudely
broken. The unexpected successes of the rising of the
people of Spain against their French invaders at once
drew the attention of the British Government to that
country. The expedition was ordered to proceed not to
South America, but to Spain. With this change of destina-
tion came also an alteration in the conmiand. Greneral
Mackenzie was not to accompany the force, and the ex-
pectant aide-de-camp had to bear his mortification as he
best could.
But it was still his destiny to join the expedition, not on
the Staff, but carrying the colours of the 36th, for in passing
through Fermoy to take the command. Sir Arthur Welles-
ley left orders for that regiment to proceed to Cork within
twenty-four hours. A hurried gathering of goods and
chattels, a march of twenty miles, an inspection in the
streets of Cork by Sir Arthur himself, and then a string
of boats filled with the red-coats slipping down to the
Cove and to the transports — ^thus suddenly the young
soldier of but sixteen summers found himself face to face
with the stem realities of war.
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CHAPTER III.
SIX MONTHS OF THE PKNINSULAE WAR.
Bkitish expeditions had come to hold but a poor reputa-
tion when the present century began. The despatch of a
new one created little enthusiasm, or even interest. Long
years of war had made the minds of men familiar with
campaigns and battles and sieges. And these warlike
operations were now spread over so wide a field that it
would have been hard to tell to what quarter a fresh expe-
dition would, vrith most probability, be sent. With this
low military prestige there existed also a wide-spread
feeling of indifference, sometimes bordering on contempt^ for
the profession of a soldier. The rank and file of the army
contained a large infusion of the lowest orders of the
community. Enlistment was in the hands of agents who
received a profit according to the numbers they could
induce to join the service. A man who had proved himself
unfit for any honest calling was yet good enough for a
soldier. And thus it became common to regard the " listing "
of a son or brother as a kind of family disgrace.
Of the private himself but slender care was taken by the
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24 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [laoe.
authorities. He enlisted for life, and could look forward
to being permitted to leave the service on a small pension
only when ill-health or age at last made him useless. As
a rule, he could neither read nor write. There was then no
daily newspaper press recounting to every town and village
in the three kingdoms the doings of his regiment, men-
tioning even his own name should he distinguish him-
self ; no associations for the help of the sick and wounded ;
no lady-nurses venturing from dainty homes into the rough
scenes of war ; no frequent post bringing him letters and
papers firom the fatherland to show him that he was the
object of kindly solicitude to his native country. When
he was carried away into service abroad, it was not in
a roomy steam-transport, but in a sloop or brig drawn
perhaps from the coasting trade. And yet in spite of all
these wants, of many of which he was happily unconscious,
in spite, too, of pipe-clay and blackball, of plastering his
queue, and burnishing his musket, he could be trained into
an excellent soldier, and he went through his hardships
with that endurance and boldness which more than restored
the teputation of the British army.
On the 12th July 1808 the small expeditionary force set
sail from Cork, and met with no mishap until it came to
anchor off the coast of Qallicia. Owing to some uncertainty
as to the state of affairs in the Peninsula^ the disembarka-
tion was delayed for a few days, and the transports moved
southward to the Portuguese coast The young ensign of the
86th raiment, cooped up in a small brig, had been in the
surgeon's hands, and continued still an invalid. But at
the order for landing his kit was soon packed. Like the
other oflScers he took ashore three days' provisions, beside
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im] LANDS IN PORTUGAL. 25
his greatcoat and knapsack, while he had to cany on his
shoidders the colours of the regiment. Of this time he
writes: —
"Early on the 1st of Angost, the d6th, forming part of
the first brigade, disembarked with the 60th Eifles and
other r^[iments under General Fane, Fortunately it was
a fine calm hot day, with little or no surf on the sterile and
uninhabited shore, vrith its wide beach and hillocks of blown
sand. The inhabitants of Figuiera^ on the opposite bank
of the river, stood under their variously-coloured umbrellas,
and my boat being to the extreme left, I could scan the
motley group, in which monks and women predominated.
Just as I was gazing around, and as our boat touched the
sand, the Commodore's barge rapidly passed with our bright-
eyed little General Perhaps I am the only person now
(1864) living, who saw the future Wellington place for the
first time his foot on Lusitania, followed by his aide-de-
camp, Fitzroy Somerset, afterwards Lord Baglan. He
certainly was not twenty paces from me, and the cheerful
confident expression of his countenance at that moment
has ever remained impressed on my mind. The disem-
barkation being imopposed, you would think I had nothing
to record. But the young ensign, with his glazed cocked
hat, square to Uiefrcmi, his long white gloves, his tight belts,
and well-fiUed knapsack and haversack, found it no easy
matter to obey the orders of the fidgety General Fane, who,
whilst out feet slipped back on the loose sand, was en-
deavouring to make us move as if on the Brighton race-
course!"
Of this toilsome march, and of the subsequent operations
of the army, the young soldier wrote a minute and earnest
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26 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80K [im.
account two days after the battle of Yimieira, in a letter to
his uncle. General Mackenzie, which, with all its tediousness
of detail, shows no ordinary powers of observation, and grasp
of the general plan of the military pitx^eedings : —
** Vdiieiba, 23d August 1808.
" My dbak Uncle, — Having been prevented so very long
a time from writing to you, on account of not knowing to
what part of the Mediterranean you are ordered, I am re-
solved at last to send this letter to Sicily, and let it run the
hazard of a ship sailing &om Lisbon to that island If you
had been in England during the whole of the time in which
we were acting against the French in this country, what
pleasure it would have given me to have sent you from the
scenes of action the last accounts of them ; but in such
ignorance was I of the country you were in, that in the only
letter which I have had from my mother since I left Ire-
land, she informed me only of your having proceeded in the
' Pomona' frigate to the Mediterranean ; that it was probable
you would touch at some of the Spanish ports, whither it
was then supposed Sir Arthur Wellesley's expedition would
proceed ; and that in case of meeting with me, you intended
taking me on with you as your aide-de-camp. I shall en-
deavour in this letter to give a detailed account of our pro-
ceedings, as I am certain you will be pleased with it, incorrect
as it may be in some respects, and far as it must be from
being a general one, on account of my humble situation in
the army.
" Sir Arthur Wellesley, after having proceeded to Corunna
in order to hear of the movements of the Spaniards, wrote to
Admiral Sir Charles Cotton off the Tagus, and requested him
to co-operate. The landing of the troops in Mondego Bay
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1W8.] LANDS IN PORTUGAL. 27
was then determined upon, and, on the let of August, the
d6th and 40th infantiy, and some rifles, disembarked on the
south side of the river Mondego, under General Fane, exactly
opposite the town of Figuiera. The troops passed the bar
of the river chiefly in small schooners which trade along the
coast, and also in Portuguese boats.
" The brigade being formed was then marched in open
columns along the coast, chiefly through veiy heavy sands,
about two leagues, and encamped near the village of Lavaos,
where Sir Arthur established head-quarters for the night
As by his orders two shirts and two pair of stockings and a
great-coat were to compose the whole of the baggage of
officers and soldiers, and that not such a thing as a donkey
or any other animal was procurable, our whole kit, including
three days' provisions, was on our backs, which, with a brace
of pistols and the 36th regimental colours, loaded me abso-
lutely to the utmost of my strengtL Even our old Colonel
was compelled to tramp through the sands this day, which
he did with the greatest alacrity. In four days the whole
of the troops and stores were landed without any loss. As
we were now to wait at Lavaos for the arrival of General
Spencer's force from Cadiz, we had it in our power to com-
municate with the shipping, and I was thus enabled to land
my boat-cloak and a few other necessary articles, which
have since been of infinite use to me on outlying picquets
(under waUs and without tents) and guards, and to buy a
donkey to carry them, which little animal is with me at
present. In the course of three days General Spencer^s force
arrived and inunediately disembarked. The army being then
arranged and divided into six brigades, we were placed under
General Ferguson with the 40th and 71st r^ments. The
Digitized by VjOOQIC
28 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [18O8.
appointment of this excellent officer (who, I think, is your
particular friend) gave ns, the 36th, great satisfaction.
" Sir Arthur Wellesley*8 orders, previous to our landing,
were most explicitly and clearly written, particularly in
explaining to the troops the nature of the service they were
about to enter upon, and. directing the greatest attention to
.be paid to the religion and customs of the Portuguese. We
were likewise given to imderstand by these orders, that
through the whole of the war we should be en Uvcuac,
and no tents allowed for officers or men. On the 10th the
whole army directed its march to Leyria. It was intended
at first to have marched only three leagues, but upon in-
formation being received that a force had proceeded by the
sea-coast, in order to have surprised some of our outposts,
our march was continued until three o'clock next morning.
We then halted and took up our stations on a cold, bleak
imoor, about two leagues from Leyria, having marched up-
wards of twenty English miles. Next morning we marched
to Leyria (where the 'inhabitants had been maltreated by
Loison), and halted on the south side of the city, whence I
went in to inspect it There we were joined by the Portu-
guese army, which did not exceed in strength 3000 men.
Prom what I could observe, there were about four squadrons
of cavalry, good-looking, well-mounted dragoons, being the
garde de police of Lisbon, who had made their escape from
thence on hearing of our disembarkation. The Portuguese
infantry was in a most wretched state of discipline. On the
13th the army marched two and a half leagues, and halted
at Lucero, about a mile and a half on the south side of the
beautiful ancient abbey of Batalha, where the Portuguese
gained that celebrated victory over the Spaniards which
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1808.] IN THE BATTLE OF RORigA. 29
secured the independence of their coimtiy. At this place,
for the first time, we got hold of a few straggling Frenchmen.
Next day, the 14th, we proceeded to Alcoba^a, and halted
near it The abbey is most magnificent, and delighted me
more than any public building I have seen. The library
and kitchen of the convent are well worthy of admiration.
Part of the French army had just quitted this place.
" We had proceeded next morning about half-way between
this town and Las Caldas ; when, approaching the small town
of Albaferam, the French appeared in sight Their army was
drawn up in close column, and was ready for action. They
however continued their retreat, and we advanced and
halted near Las Caldas.
^ Sir Arthur had received intelligence that the French
General Laborde was strongly entrenched in the mountainous
pass at the extremity of the valley in which the old Moorish
fort of Obidos stands, and that General Loison was at no
great distance from our right The greatest part of the army
was advanced from the valley to force the pass, while
General ^Feiguson's brigade (with General Bowes's in its
rear) was sent off to the mountains on the left, with the in-r
tention of cutting off Laborde's retreat. We were proceed-
ing in this direction when the French appeared upon our
flank, in consequence of which we formed line, and changing
direction advanced, as the fog cleared, towards the enemy.
We marched over about two leagues of hilly ground, and
when within about one mile and a half of the pass we un-
expectedly perceived the whole of the enemy in direct
march to it, and immediately afterwards our riflemen opened
their fire from the top of a hill upon one of the enemy's
columns, who returned a volley and retreated a short distance.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
30 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isoe.
" It fell to the lot of the Eifles, 5th, '9th, and 29th regi-
ments, to force the pass, and to the last regiment especially,
who, from the nature of the ground, could in some places only
ascend up the hill in single files. It was on this account
that the 29th lost so many officers and men, including the
gallant Colonel Lake, who was some paces in front of his
regiment when he fell. Just as we arrived at the foot of the
mountains our artillery was brought into play, which no
doubt annoyed the enemy's retreating columns, and three
companies of our regiment were detached in order to support
om: light infantry, with the other light infantry of the
brigade. The enemy had moved off, however, &om the shots
of the rifles, and the distant fire of a few pieces of our
artillery. The 40th regiment was then detached from our
brigade to cover the baggage, and as soon as the firing ceased
we pursued our march through the pass. Swiss and French-
men were lying dead on all sides. As soon as we got through.
General Ferguson's brigade, with the others which had not
been much engaged, formed on a very extensive heath, and
were advanced in front in order to charge the enemy if he
would stand ; but Monsieur would only permit a few stray
shots to be sent into his solid columns — he had received
beating enough to satisfy him for one day.^
" On the 19 th the army moved on to Yimieira, and passed
over the very plateau on which we of the 36th were, two
days afterwards^ to have an opportunity of signalizing
ourselves.
" The village of Vimieira is situated in a narrow valley,
amid rising hills. In our front, on to the south-east, is a
wood upon a low eminence ; and in the rear, on towards the
1 This was the engagement of Roli^a or Rori9a.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
iwa] THE BATTLE OF VIMIEIRA. 31
coast, are very high hills. On the summit of these hills,
which lie exactly between Vimieira and the sea, the greatest
part of the British army was posted On a lower hill on
the right, and a little in front of the town, was the light
Brigade, with the 20th regiment. This was an excellent
post of observation. On the hill on the left was the 40th
regiment, which was the left of our brigade, the 71st High-
landers on their right, and the d6th being in the hollow
exactly in the rear of the village. Close to our front was
a small river. The position was rather more than two
leagues &om the sea. , , . We discovered some squad-
rons and picquets of French dragoons. Several oflScers
approached us, and one coming particularly near (I suppose
he was sketching). Captain Hellish (Ceneral Ferguson's
A.D.C.) offered the long odds to any one that, if permitted,
he would dismount him.
"On the following morning, the 21st, about nine o'clock,
the drums of the 40th regiment beat to arms. This was
occasioned by their outlying picquet being attacked by some
small party of the enemy which was greatly advanced. In
ten minutes we were formed. Our brigade, led by General
Ferguson, immediately crossed the little river and ascended
to the hill on which we were about to fight We had hardly
commenced our uphill move before the advanced posts of
our centre, in the hollow near Yimieira^ on our right, com-
menced a very heavy fire. We proceeded up the hill and
formed line under its brow, A brigade of artillery was
brought up with the greatest promptitude, and two guns,
under Lieutenant Locke, being placed on the rising ground
on our right, and the others on the left, three companies of
the 3 6 th were detached to the edge of the hiU on our right,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
32 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [laoa.
in order to protect the guns, which were soon annoying the
advancing French close columns in the finest style with
shrapnell shells, whilst our rifles and light infantry were
firing in extended files as videttes.
" After some very hot and dose work the centre of our
army, at the village of Yimieiia, repulsed the enemy. Thei'e
General Anstruther's brigade, with the 50th r^iment^ re-
ceived the enemy in firont of the village. Colonel Taylor,
who had charged with four troops, the only cavalry we had,
viz., of the 20th Light Dragoons, was killed in a wood, whilst
our heavy artillery, which was. placed upon the hillock in
front of the village, cut up the enemy most dreadfully. The
50th charged them with the bayonet ; the 43d met them in
a narrow lane when in open column, and gallantly repulsed
them; the 5 2d and 97th were likewise wannly engaged
and thus the enemy was quite routed in their central or
main attack.^
** To return to our own part of the battle, i.e. to our left
wing : the fire of the enemy soon became very hot^ and even
though the 36th were lying on their breasts under the brow,
our men were getting pretty much hit, whilst the regiment
in our rear, the 82d, which at that time could not fire a
shot, suffered more than we did. General Spencer, who
commanded the division, when moving about to regulate the
general movements, was hit by a ball in. the hand, and I
saw him wrap his handkerchief round it and heard him say,
' It is only a scratch T Soon after, the light infantry in our
front closed files and fell in ; our guns were pulled back,
^ The original of the present letter appears to have been lost In the
copy of it from -which the text has been printed, the remainder after
the above paragraph is in Mnrchison's own handwriting of a mnch later
date.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
1808.] THE BATTLE OF VIMIEIRA. 33
and then came the straggle. General Ferguson waving his
hat, up we rose, old Bume (our Colonel) crying out, as he
shook his yellow cane, that ' he would knock down any man
who fired a shot'
** This made some merriment among the men, as tumbling
over was the fashion without the application of their Colonel's
cane. ' Charge !' was the word, and at once we went over
the brow with a steady line of glittering steel, and with a
hearty hurrah, against six raiments in close column, with
six pieces of artillery, just in front of the 36tL But not an
instant did the enemy stand against this most unexpected
sally within pistol-shot Off they went, and all their guns
were instantly taken, horses and all, and then left in our
rear, whilst we went on chasing the runaways for a mile and
a halt as hard as we could go, over the moor of Lourinhao.
They rallied, it is true, once or twice, particularly behind
some thick prickly-pear hedges and a hut or two on the
flat table-land ; but although their brave General Solignac
was always cantering to their front and animating them
against us, they at last fled precipitately, until they reached
a small hamlet, where, however, they did make a tolerable
stand
** Here it was that Sir Arthur Wellesley overtook us
after a smart gallop. He had witnessed from a distance
our steady and successful chaige, and our capture of the
guns, and he now saw how we were thrusting the French
out of this hamlet. Through the sound of the musketry,
and in the midst of much confusion, I heard a shrill voice
calling out, * Where are the colours of the 36th?' and I
turned round (my brother ensign, poor Peter Bone, having
just been knocked down), and looking up in Sir Arthur^s
VOL.1. c
Digitized by VjOOQIC
34 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isoa
bright and confident face^said, ' Here they are, sir !' Then
he shouted, * Very well done, my boys ! Halt, halt — quite
enough I'
" The French were now at their last run, in spite of
every effort of Solignac to rally them. Several of our
bloody-minded old soldiers said in levelling, * they would
bring down the on the white horse ;' and sure enough
the gallant fellow feU, just as the 71st Highlanders, who
were on our left, being moved round en potenee, charged
down the hill, with their wounded piper playing on his
bum, and completed the rout of the enemy, taking General
Solignac of course prisoner.*
** Had we possessed a squadron or two of dragoons on
the left wing, all the remedning force of Solignac's division,
which had been driven two miles to the north, or away from
the main body of Junot (which had retreated to the south),
would have been captured, for they were then a rabbla
But Sir Arthur knew his weakness in cavalry. He had
defeated a very superior force in crack style ; on our wing
we had indeed taken the General, and all the guns brought
against us; he also knew that the enemy had three full
regiments of cavalry in the field, whilst we had none.
Moreover, he was no longer conmiander, for old Sir Harry
Burrard, already on the ground, was his senior, and had
ordered a halt
** Think, my dear uncle, with what pleasure I got a sheet
of long paper from the adjutant, and wrote my first account
of this glorious victory to my mother on a drum in the field,
1 Thia appears to be a mistake. Solignac was wounded, but the French
General taken prisoner was not he, but firennier. See Wellington's De-
spcUchea, voL iv. p. 96 ; Napier's Penmndar War, toL L p. 215.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1808.] THE BATTLE OF VIMIEIRA. 85
in order that it might go home with the despatches.^ We
shall soon go on to Lisbon^ and then I expect we shall finish
off Monsieur Junot — I remain ever, my dear unde, your
most affectionate nephew."
To this letter may be added one or two reminiscences
which he used to tell of these first Peninsular days. It was
no marvel if a stripling of sixteen, even though he had been
a ringleader in all rough sports and adventures at school
and military college, should have looked pale for a moment
on going into actual battle. His face caught the eye of the
bluff old veteran. Captain Hubbard, who gave him a good
draught of Hollands gin out of his canteen, and patted him
on the back, saying he would never feel so afterwards.
" And he was quite right," added the narrator ; •* the first
start over, and you are ever afterwards one of a united mass
of brave men."
No trace of personal emotion was of course allowed to
escape in the business-like letter to his uncle from the
embryo aide-de-camp. And yet, brave and bold as he was,
he could not help a shudder at the first sight of the dead
and mangled bodies of the Swiss and French lying right
and left as his corps marched through the Pass of Boriqa.
But a more hideous recollection dwelt in his memory
through life. " When halting at a bivouac before we reached
Vimieira^" he wrote, " a Portuguese volunteer on horseback
coolly unfolded before myself and others a large piece of
brown paper, in which he had carefully folded up like a
sandwich several pairs of FreTuhmen^s ears, his occupation
having been to follow us, and to cut off all these appendages
1 ThiB letter, sealed with a bit of brown bread, baa not been preaenred.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
8C SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [18O6.
from men who were thoroughly well ' kilt * — doubtless to
produce them in coffee-house in Lisbon as proofs of the
number of the enemy he had slain ! "
The conduct of the 36th regiment, and its gallant colonel,
received high praise in the despatches of Sir Arthur Wei-
lesley, to which, in after life, Murchison referred with pride,
as evidence that though his friends had almost all known
him only as ^ civilian and a man of peace, he had yet had
shared with his comrades in actual and successful fighting.^
The subsequent events of this short campaign, with all
their memorable results in the Peninsula and at home, left
but little impress on the young ensign* He saw his favourite
general superseded by Sir Harry Burrard, and then by Sir
Hew Dalrymple. He was quite sure that the British forces
could have compelled Junot to surrender, or at least that
the French force never could have fought its way back
to Spain. like so many of his fellow-countrymen, he looked
on the so-caUed Convention of Cintra ''as stupid, if not dis-
gnu^efuL" In spite of what he has described to his uncle as
his ''humble situation in the army," he seems to have had
no hesitation in deciding that the brilliant successes in which*
he had taken part had been "shamefully lost" by subsequent
diplomacy. And he no doubt found consolation in repeating
^ In the official despatch from the field of yimieira, Sir Afthnr writes
thus :— *' In mentioning Colonel Borne and the 36th r^ment upon this
occasion, I caonot avoid adding that the regnlar and orderly condnot of
this corps throughout the service, and their gallantry and discipline in
action, have been conspicuous." — ^Wellington's Despatches, by Gurwood,
voL iv. p. 96. Again, in a letter written next day to Lord Castlereagh,
he says, *< You will see that I have mentioned Colonel Bume of the 36th
r^ment in a very particular manner ; and I assure you that there is no-
thing that will give me so much satisfaction as to learn that something
has been done for this old and meritorious soldier. The 36th regiment are
an eicample to this army.^^Op. cU, p. 100.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
i8oa] LISBON IN THE PENINSULAR WAR 37
to his comrades one or other of the contemporary squibs
which expressed the popular estimation of the respective
merits of the three commanders.
With the political side of the militaiy events he troubled
himself but littla Of more interest at the moment were
the sights of Lisbon, in which his raiment was now quartered,
and the looks and ways of the inhabitants. The music of
the French bands before Junof s forces were embarked and
sent away from the Tagus^ the black>eyed beauties of the
coffee-houses, and the filth of the luxurious city— these
were the features of the sojourn in Lisbon which most
impressed themselves on his memory. Night after night
his room was perfumed by the burning of lavender in it^
and he was thereafter left to wage war against domestic
battalions hardly less numerous than those which he had
encountered at Vimieira. Or if he ventured oat of doors
after nightfall, no little dexterity was needed to work his
way safely among the discharges of filth, which, in accordance
with the sanitary arrangements then in rogue, descended
from the windows, too often followed, instead of being
preceded, by the cry required by the police, of *' Agua va I "
The month of September wore away. At home fierce
outcry had arisen over the Convention by which the French
were removed from Portugal The three ccmimanders and
the leading generals were summoned back to England to un-
dergo examination before a Court of Inquiry, while vehement
denunciations were poured forth by the newspapers against
the conduct of affairs after the battle of Vimieira. Mean-
while events had transpired in Spain which wholly
altered the aspect of the war, and gave occasion to the
English Government to interfere more actively than ever
Digitized by VjOOQIC
38 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [isoe.
in the contest between Napoleon and the people of the
Peninsula. After the French armies had traversed Spain
and crashed the numerous but unconnected and ill-directed
attempts of the patriots to resist the march of the invaders,
the tide of war turned. A division of Kapoleon's armies,
eighteen thousand in number, which had penetrated into the
most southerly province, was surrounded by the insurgents
and forced to lay down its arms. The enthusiasm of the
people blazed forth afresh from one end of the country to
the other. In England the joy was great and loudly ex-
pressed, that at last some check seemed likely to be placed
on the career of conquest of the man whom the country
hated and feared. Money, men, stores of every kind, were
freely promised to the patriots, and as freely, though with
sad want of judgment, supplied.
The British army, whatever might be thought or said
as to the mode in which the feat had been accom-
plished, had certainly compelled the French to evacuate
Portugal, and the Ministry of the day deemed it advis-
able that their victorious expedition, now lying at Lisbon
and watching the embarkation and removal of the French
regiments, should put itself in motion, march across the
country, enter Spain, and give effectual aid to the efforts of
the Spanish patriots. Orders to this effect reached Lisbon
early in October. Sir John Moore was put at the head of
the expeditionary force. He was told that not a French
soldier remained in the southern half of Spain, that CastaiLos
in the south, and Blake in the north, had collected large
armies, with supplies, and how enthusiastically the people
were everywhere rising against the invadera He was
directed to enter Gallicia or Leon, and there to receive an
Digitized by VjOOQIC
im] WITH SIR JOHN MOORE IN SPAIN. 39
additional force to be despatched tinder Sir David Baird
from England. In Spain his further movements were to be
regulated in concert with the Spanish generals.
Through the long melancholy marchings and coimter-
marchings which began at Lisbon at the end of September,
and ended at Corunna in the middle of January, Murchison
took his place with the 36th. His regiment formed part of
the force sent round by Talavera under Sir John Hope. The
troops began to move as the rainy season was setting in. To
the rain succeeded the snows and frosts of an inclement
winter. From the Spaniards assistance neither in men nor
in means of transport, nor information of the movements
and strength of the common enemy, could be procured. To
the last there came firom them in abundance promises of
powerful reinforcements, entreaties to the British commander
to advance, glowing pictures of the vast enthusiasm and re-
sources of Spain, and stories of the weakness and hesitation
of the French. In the midst of so much uncertainty it was
natural enough that the progress of the British force should
be but slow, and that this tardiness and apparent hesitation,
combined with the hardships of the weather, should have
caused some murmuring in the ranks. Among the mur-
murers was our Ensign of the 36th. His physical frame,
though strong, was sorely tried during these long marches,
with indifiPerent food, in the dead of winter. He could not
then judge what were the real operations of the army. He
was necessarily ignorant, as other subalterns were, of the
almost incredible difficulties of the noble-hearted Moore.
He could see only the toilsome and seemingly staggering
marches and halts and retreats. It appeared as if at head-
quarters there were no settled plan; as if the army were
Digitized by VjOOQIC
40 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK [isos,
moved to and fro merely at random. So deeply \7as this
impression of inadequate generalship fixed on his mind, that
even late in life he continued to express himself as he might
have done in the march from Lugo, or on the heights of
Coninna.^
Of the actual events of the campaign he has preserved
notes, chiefly of the various stages reached by his division
in its march from Lisbon through Portugal and Spain, with
a few personal reminiscences. In a little pocket note-book,
which went with him through the campaign, there are traces
^ The foUowing note oontainB Ids deliberate judgment as to the general-
ship of Sir John Moore. It was written about the year 1854 : —
'* The chief mistakes of Moore can Dever, I thiuk, be set aside, although,
doubtless, he had a most diflSoult task to play, and was 'grossly deceived
by the Spanish goyemment. These mistakes ^ere, 1^ sending round all
his artillery and cavalry, when we entered Spain, by a long march, thus
paralysing his exertions for a fortnight or three weeks ; 2d, making the
hazardous and indecisive advance from Salamanca to Sahagun, which led
him eventually to abandon the only true strategical plan of returning, as
he himself intended a week before, on the strong ground of Portugal.
Again, the detaching the light Division to Vigo was an error which pre-
vented his occupying a strong position before Oorunna ; and, lastly, his
forced night marches in order to escape from our enemy, who was re-
pelled by us at all points, even after our horrible losses and disasters, and
with two-thirds only of our army.
'*It must be recoUected that I only had the knowledge of a young
subaltern o£Scer, and in resenting the stem general order of our chief, in
which he reflected on the want of discipline, I simply express what aU the
poor sufferers felt who knew that the army so condemned was in an ad-
mirable state a month before. <To whom therefore,' said we, 'is this
forlorn state due, but to the chief who commands us to do impossibi-
lities — t.e., to march without shoes and provisions, and in dark winter
nights?'
'* For these reasons, notwithstanding aU the praise of his admirers, in-
cluding William Napier, who had been driUed under him, I have never
been able to regard Moore as a first-rate general. As a general of division,
as a disciplinarian, and as a noble type of unblemished character and un-
flinching courage, he was without a rival. Peace be to his ashes ! and let
glory be ever associated with the name of the hero who in Egypt contri-
buted so much to the success of Abercromby, and who, like his gallant
Scottish countryman, met his death in the arms of victory."
Digitized by VjOOQIC
i8(k] with sir JOHN MOORE IN SPAIN. 41
of some attempts to acquire a few words of Spanish. Such
phrases as were likely to be of service in the march are
carefully noted. He records how, having now been pro-
moted to be Lieutenant, he made his first essay in horse-
dealing, — ^an unfortunate adventure, by which he secured an
animal whose legs, when seen by daylight, turned out to
have been all duly pitched below the knee, and whose most
sprightly movement consisted in rolling himself on the
ground, his feet in the air, and his rider sprawling in the
sand beside him, amid the laughter of the regiment.
From Abrantes to Castello de Vide he notes the broken
features of the ground, which rises into heights crowned here
and there with quaint old hill-forts, and sinks into fold after
fold of cork-forest, with plenteous harbourage for the hairless
black pig, " the best food in Portugal" Now and then during
the halts he and a companion would sally out for the inspec-
tion of castle, forest, village, or town, as might happen. At
the venerable fortress of Marvao, for example, scattering troops
of black swine, he climbed up to the fortifications of what
seemed to be a forgotten tenantless hold, when a challenge
suddenly came from a ragged sentinel in dingy bro¥m, and
with a sorely rusted musket, dangerous only to the hands
that might venture to fire it. The strangers were reported
to the " Governor," and they found, as the whole garrison, a
score of men yet more patched than the sentinel, with hardly
a lock to any one of their guns.
The 36 th regiment was the first of the division which
crossed the frontier into Spain. He chronicles in the be-
haviour of the natives a strong contrast to that of the Por-
tuguese. Though received with shouts of "Long live the
English !-— Long live King George 1" he found the people
Digitized by VjOOQIC
42 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [isos.
cold and distrustful; and he speaks of the disheartening
effect upon himself and comrades of the indifference and
reserve with which the houses on which they were billeted
were opened to them.
There was much in this march into the heart of Spain to
arrest the notice of an observant eye-^the forms of the
great table-land, with its sierras and river-gorges — the
antique towns and mouldering ruins going back even into
Roman times — the ways and manners of the people. Of
these various features no jottings occur in the journal, save
only such scanty ones as to show that they were not passed
wholly without notice. At the Escurial the force halted for
six days. Many of the officers contrived during this interval
to see Madrid. Murchison, being somewhat unwell, spent the
time among the jolly brethren of the great gridiron convent.
What seems to have made the most lasting impression on
him were the large flasks of wine hung before the window
of every cell to ripen for private use. But he retained a
vivid recollection, too, of the splendours of the art collec-
tion, then still untouched by French spoliation, and of the
solemn resting-place of the Kings of Spain.
It was while waiting at the Escurial for tidings of
the Spanish forces, with wliich the British were to co-
operate, that General Hope learned how utterly these forces
had been routed and dispersed by the French, who, under
Napoleon in person, were now rapidly approaching the
capital. At once the route was changed, and by a skilful
move the British division under Hope was united to the
main body of the army led by Sir John Moore. In the
course of this rapid march there occurred at the old Moorish
city of Avila an incident, of which Murchison gives the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1809.] THE RETREAT TO LUGO. 43
following account: — " Our poor fellows being well tired
were either asleep or dozing against the walls of the houses,
when they were roused by a tramping of horses* feet and
loud clashing of metal, sounding just like a cavalry-charge,
which caused a few to run for their arms, piled in the middle
of the dark street, whilst many more made a sauve qui pent
into the adjacent aUeys. The charge having cleared the
street, knocking down many a piled musket, our amuse-
ment was great to find that one old vicious mule, breaking
away firom the muleteers, had carried with him a troop of
his associates, who came full gallop clattering down the
street, tossing our camp-kettles and all their burdens by the
way. This was the enemy's cavalry that awoke us !**
Hard winter weather and a continued retreat began to
tell upon the discipline and the numbers of the British
troops. On the 6th of Januaiy, on reaching Lugo, Sir John
Moore issued a general order, beginning, — " Generals and
commanding officers of corps must be as sensible as the
Commander-in-Chief of the complete disorganization of the
army." Lieutenant Murchison, however, could see no signs
of any such disintegration in the 36th regiment at that time,
and it was only after the terrible night-marches which suc-
ceeded the halt at Lugo that his division merited in his eyes
the severe censure of the Commander- in-Chie£ These toil-
some nights, with the constant pressure of the French, and
of even more resistless foes, bitter frost and snow, told, too,
npon his own strength. On one occasion, after a fruitless
midnight march against the enemy, who was supposed to be
advancing to the attack, Murchison, commanding that night
an outlying picquet, threw himself into a comer of a farmer's
yard, and soon fell asleep. Day had scarcely broken when
Digitized by VjOOQIC
44 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK [isw.
the cry of " Picquet, turn out !" roused him firom his rest,
but not in time to escape the notice of the vigilant Colonel
Packe, who, however, allowed him to escape with a severe
reprimand. But after the halt at Lugo, when having vainly
offered battle to the French, the British army retreated by a
forced march to Corunna^ the young lieutenant fairly broke
down. The mule, which had hitherto carried himself or his
kit, was lost ; his old soldier servant had gone back to seek
among the snow for his wife and child Of this sad time he
has preserved the following recollections : —
•* Never shall I forget the night which followed the
abandoning of our position in front of Lugo. We marched
through that city at dusk, and then blew up the bridge
which was to check for awhile our foe. In darkness, with
no food, and after sleepless nights, with worn-out shoes, and
thoroughly disgusted with always running off and not fight-
ing, this army now fell into utter disorder. Starved as they
were, the men soon became reckless, and all the regiments
got mixed together ; in short, the soldiers were desperate, in
spite of the exertions of the few mounted officers. For my
own part, I walked on, usually in my sleep, with the grumbling
and tumultuous mass, until awakened by the loss of my boots
in one of the numerous deep cuts across the road, which
were like quagmires, so that with my bare feet I had some
twenty miles still to march. Many of the soldiers got away
from the road to right and left. Marching all that dreadful
night my young frame at last gave way, the more so as I
was barefoot, cold, and starved, and already the great body
of troops had got far ahead of me. In short, I was now one
of a huge arrear of stragglers when day broke, and the little
hamlet was in sight
Digitized by VjOOQIC
iswi] NEARLY TAKEN PRISONER 45
** Seated on a bank on the side of the road, and munching
a raw turnip which I had gathered firom the a(]yacent field,
and ju8t as I was feeling that I never could r^ain my r^-
ment, and must be taken prisoner, a black-eyed drummer of
the 96th came by from the village, whither the young fellow
had been to cater. Seeing that I was exhausted, and almost
as young as himself, and not yet a hardened old soldier, he
slipped round his canteen, which he had contrived to fill
with red wine, and gave me a hearty drink. He thus saved
me from being taken prisoner by the French, who were
rapidly advancing, and who, if they had had a regiment of
cavalry in pursuit, might at that moment have taken pri-
soners, or driven into the mountains, a good third of the
BritiBh forces.
" With the draught of wine I trudged on again, and
came in, at eleven o'clock of the 10th, into the town of
Betanzos, and rejoined my regiment, which had marched in
with about fifty men only, with the colours, though ere night
it was made up to its strength of 600 and odd men. This
fact alone shows better than a world of other evidence what
forced night-marches with a starving and retreating army
must infallibly produce. At Lugo the 36th regiment was
fit to fight anything--in two days it was a rabble.
" Happily for me I tumbled into a shoemaker's house.
His handsome young wife washed my feet with warm water,
and furnished me with stockings, while her husband came
to my further aid with shoes. But my swollen feet had no
time to recover. On the following day the whole army,
such as it was, passed over the river, blowing up the bridge,
and taking up its last position.
" There, remnant as it was, the army formed a respectable
Digitized by VjOOQIC
46 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [\m.
line— Corunna within two miles of us, and our fleet ready to
back us. Provisions and shoes were served out to us, and
vdth such luxuries the bivouac, even in the month of January,
was well borne. In truth the army got into comparative
good spirits, and when on the 15th the French crossed the
last bridge we had blown up, and were defiling at a respect-
able distance along our front, we were quite refreshed, and
ready to repel them. The picquets indeed of our (Hope's)
division had a sharp encounter on that evening, and when
looking through the Colonel's glass, I saw Colonel Mackenzie
of the 5th regiment fall dead from his grey horse, whilst
leading an attack on two of the enemy's guns.
** On the 1 6th, just after our frugal repast^ and whilst
leaning over one of the walls where we lay, my old Colonel
after looking some time with his glass, suddenly exclaimed
to me, * Now, my boy, they 're coming on ;' and when I took
a peep to the hills beyond on the right and south-west, I
perceived the glitter of columns coming out of a wood. And
scarcely had the Colonel given the word to fall in, when a
tremendous fire opened from a battery of seventeen to twenty
pieces, under cover of which the enemy was rolling down in
dense columns from the wooded hills upon our poor fellows,
who were in a hollow with their arms piled, like our 0¥m,
until they were assaulted.
" For our cavalry was extinct, as the horses and men, as
well as most of our artillery, were embarked on the 13th and
14th ; yet never since Englishmen fought was there a more
gallant fight than was made by the 4th, 42d, and 50th regi-
ments (Lord W. Bentinck's brigade), who rushed on with
the bayonet, and, supported by the Guards, held their own
against a terrific superiority, until General Paget was ordered
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1809.] THE BATTLE OF CORUNNA. 47
to move his brigade towards the enemy's flank, and com-
pelled them to withdraw — not, however, before poor Moore,
galloping out from the town, fell, while encouraging the
troops; and Baird, who marched his division out of the
town, had lost his arm. My own brigade had much less to
do, our front line and picquets being alone engaged.
''As night fell, and after the firing had ceased, the
enemy having returned to his own ground, we received the
order to march into Corunna and embark. Our fires were
left burning to deceive the enemy, and make him believe
that he must fight us again next morning if he hoped to
beat us.
" Silently and regularly we moved on on this our last
short night-march in the dark tranquil night of the 16th, and
passing through the gates ifeached the quay. The names of
our respective transports had previously been explained to
us, my own being the brig ' Beward,' which I found to be
from Sunderland. I was on deck as light dawned, and
then at once saw the danger of the position of this miserable
little transport, as well as of a dozen or more of the same
craft They had been foolishly allowed to anchor im-
mediately under the tongue of high land which forms the
eastern side of the harbour, and on which there were no land
defences. Knowing that this ground was only a continua-
tion of the hilly track on which my division had marched a
few hours before, and being certain that the French would
with the peep of day pass over our old bivouac to this pro-
montory, I at once urged our skipper to get up his anchor
betimes. But the grog had, I suppose, been strong that
night He exclaimed, ' Why, I tell you what, the brave High-
landers are there ; they have not come away like you folks.'
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48 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK. [1609.
Scarcely had he spoken when a battery of field-pieces opened
their fire and sent some balls through our rigging. Turning
pale as death under the fire of these mere field-pieces, and
seeing that his crew were ready to run below, he applied the
axe to the cable, and in a few minutes we were drifting away
as we best could. The wind being from the east, we were
fast approaching the rocks on which the Castle of Antonio
stands, and on which at least five transports similarly
circumstanced to my own were wrecked, the men being
saved with difficulty, after losing their arms^ colours, and
baggaga
" I have often reflected on the extraordinary want of all
due arrangement on the part of our Admiral, in command
of a splendid fleet, who allowed those miserable transports
to anchor in such a position without placing a frigate or two
near them to silence the puny battery and prevent the dis-
may which seized the skippers.
" Not ' missing stays,' the * Beward ' floated away, and was
soon going fast before a strong nor'-easter, with the rest of
the fleet helter-skelter for the CbanneL The retreat from
Lugo could not be more confused than this flight of ships.
On the night after our start I was awakened by a strange
noise, and running on deck found the ship wearing ofi^
under a furious storm from amidst white foam and breakers.
We had just avoided going ashore upon the Dodman — a
headland of Cornwall — which that very night sent three or
four of our careless transports to the bottom with their crews,
and filled with poor soldiers who had escaped firom the
dangers and privations of the campaign. Such were our
transports of the old war. We had been saved from this
disaster solely by the watchfulness of an old grenadier."
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1809.] GAREISON LIFE AT HOME. 49
So ended Morcliison's first and last campaign. After the
lapse of more than half a century spent in peaceful and utterly
difierent pursuits, and when men had ceased to think of him
as having tried in any degree the rough ways of war, he
loved to recall those old Peninsular days. Many a time did
the recollection of them furnish him with a telling point in
an after-dinner speech, and give to some of his hearers a
surprise when they learnt that the speaker whom they had
known or heard of, perhaps from boyhood, only as a man of
science, had fought with Wellesley and Moore before the
year of Waterloo.
From the end of January 1809 to nearly the end of
October in the same year, Murchison remained with his
regiment on home service, continuing to vcuy the routine
of garrison life by visits to different parts of the country,
among others to Tarradale, the paternal estate in Soss-shire.
London, too, lay so temptingly near to Horsham Barracks,
that he was often to be found with some of his messmates at
the Old Slaughter's Coffee-house, St Martin's Lane, then a
favourite military haunt On one of these occasions, escorted
by his commanding ofBcer, Colonel Bume, he was parading
Bond Street in the stream of fashionable loungers when Sir
Arthur Wellesley came up. The hero of Yimieira had for
the nonce turned his sword into the pen of the Chief
Secretary for Ireland, and his military uniform into a civilian's
garb so unique that it remained ever after in the young
lieutenant's memory : — " Coat double-breasted, with brass
buttons, buff waistcoat, kerseymere shorts, and brown top-
boots, leaving a good deal of daylight behind." Becognising
the Colonel, he stopped. His words not less than his dress
made one of the reminiscences which Murchison liked most
VOL.L D
Digitized by VjOOQIC
90 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isoQ.
to recall '' Ah, my dear Borne/' said he, '' glad to see you
once more. One of youryounkers— eh ? Well, things won't
do as they are, I shall soon be at it again, and then I can't
do without the 36th/' But though this prophecy came true
enough, and though doubtless the subaltern went away re-
joicing in the prospect of again having a chance of distin-
guishing himself he was not destined to take any part with
his regiment in the brilliant adventures which ended with
Waterloo.
Curiously enough, the very advancement which he had all
along contemplated as the height of military bliss became
in the end the ruin of his professional prospects. He now
attained his ambition, for in the autumn of 1809 he became
aide-de-camp to his uncle* But the change, though it led
him abroad, brought him no opportunity of advancing him-
self in his career.
Oeneral Mackenzie was then in Sicily, and his nephew
had orders to join him there. On the 25th of October,
Qeorge m.'s jubilee, he set saiL As the ^ Salcette' frigate,
in which he had obtained a berth, slipped round the North
Foreland and down the Channel, the shores of Kent
from headland to headland, and from tower to tower,
blazed with cannon, while a great fleet fronting the coast-line
answered with one long flame of fire from ship to ship, as if
to show not merely loyalty to the old King, but a front of
defiance to be seen and understood by Napoleon on the
other side of the strait
life abroad wore now a pleasanter aspect than it had done
for him in the Peninsula^ '' At Messina^" he says, ^' I was
soon set up as my imcle's aide-de-camp in a house of my
own, with two horses, and little to do except make love and
Digitized by VjOOQIC
moql] garrison life IN SICILY. 51
ride in the cool of the evening with my general" As one
of his duties he had to copy an of&cial correspondence be-
tween his nnde and the agents of the Neapolitan Govern-
ment, and thereby had an early opportnnity of learning some*
thing of the duplicity and broken fiedth with which the
British in Sicily had to deal Another correspondence also
copied out by him was one with Admiral CoUingwood, then
in command of the Mediterranean squadron, whose de-
spatches were pointed out to him by his uncle as
models for imitation,
A lull had come in the warlike operations in Italy. The
hostile forces, looking at each other across the narrow Strait
of Messina^ contented themselves with a wearisome and
profitless gun-boat bombardment Murat came down into
Calabria^ and threats were given out that he would invade
Sicily and call on the people to rise against the hated
Bourbon ; but as no such move was made, the bombardment
went on.
This uninteresting duel was once enlivened by an inci-
dent worthy of an older time. A flag of truce came sailing
across fix)m the French lines, and keen grew the interest on
the Sicilian side to learn what new turn affairs had taken.
Still greater, however, was the astonishment of everybody
when the French of&cer, disembarking with a package under
his arm, made known his mission thus : — '' Le Boi mon
mattre ayant appris que son bon ami le Q^n^ral Mackenzie
se trouve en fiEtce, desire renouveler leur amiti^, et lui envoye
quelques livres de bon tabac de Paris !"
It turned out that some years before, Mackenzie had
obtained leave of absence to go fix)m Minorca to visit Bome.
While he was in the imperial city, the French army under
Digitized by VjOOQIC
52 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isoft.
Murat suddenly appeared. The young British brigadier re-
solved not to flee, like most of his fellow-countrymen, but
to trust to the effects of a bold bearing upon the generous
and susceptible mind of Murat On the evening of the
French entiy into Bome, a Princess, with whom Mackenzie
was acquainted, gave a grand ball, at which he was an-
nounced in foU uniform as " The English (TeneraL** Taking
no notice of the French officers, who looked at each other
in astonishment, he saluted the hostess, and had entered into
conversation with her, when at last Murat, recovering fix>m
his surprise, tapped him on the shoulder, and begged for
some explanation. Mackenzie easily satisfied him that he
was what he pretended to be, — a yoang British officer, ** fond
of pictures, pretty women, and amusement; and that as he
was simply amusing himself and learning Italian, he thought
he had better trust to the generosity of a brave General-in-
Chief than be captured by troops and treated as a spy."
Murat not only granted him leave to stay in Bome, but
gave him a passport to travel where he pleased, and formed
a friendship which was now renewed even in the midst of
actual war.
As a further reminiscence of this friendship, his nephew
writes, — *' When the General [Mackenzie] visited Paris at
the peace of Amiens, he found in Murat a most useful and
kind Mend, who presented him to the First Consul, with
whom he dined. It was my uncle's habit to eat slowly,
and in short to dine like a gentleman, in conversing with
his neighbours. Massena, who was next him, said,T-
' D^p^hez-vous, mon G^n^ral — le diner sera bientdt fini et
vous n'aurez rien k manger.' Such was Bonaparte's rapid
and voracious mode of feeding (no wonder he died of a
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1809.] GARRISON LIFE IN SICILY. 58
cancer in his stomach l), that before my worthy unde had
eaten the second dish, Napoleon was trotting by him, fol-
lowed by all his clattering suite, to have coffee in the next
room of the Toileriea"
Although actual warfore was going on within sight of
Messina^ our young aide-de-camp began again to complain
of monotony. He took pains to acquire some knowledge of
Italian, and, what may surprise those who knew him only
late in life, had lessons in singing. Of professional work
there would seem to have been but little for him to do ;
hence the arrival of a stranger, who needed to be taken
round the outskirts of Messina^ was no doubt a welcome
excitement His journals contain jottings of such short
excursions, parties, and other gossip. The only incident
beyond the usual routine relates to an English lady, one of
the beauties of the place, who, however, had the misfortune
to be extremely stout : — " One day at the table of the Com-
mander-in-Chief, the captain of a Turkish frigate being
seated opposite to F — , was so lost in admiration of her
that D — and myself, who were sitting on either side of
him, asked him how much he would pay for her, and he
instantly replied, with sparkling eyes, 'Fifty brass cannon,'
— in other words, his frigate's worth."
General Mackenzie's health now required his return to
England, and our aide-de-camp was soon related once
more to home life. The journey homeward proved more
circuitous and prolonged, as well as somewhat more event-
ful, than the voyage out had been. They had berths on
board a " miserable little packet, with some six pop-guns,"
and their route lay by Malta and Cagliari to Gibraltar. Off
the coast of Sicily they ran a narrow chance of being sunk
Digitized by VjOOQIC
64 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [i8Q9.
by an Algerine squadron, the Algerines being then at war
with the Sicilians. At Cagliari they beheld his Sardinian
Majesty drawn down one of the steep streets of the place in a
rickety coach by four black long-tailed horses. Ten days
passed pleasantly away at Gibraltar, enlivened by an excursion
into the hills of Bonda> in the wake of the retreating French,
with the risk of being taken prisoners by them, or of being
shot as Frenchmen by the guerillaa At Cadiz he made
fresh acquaintances, witnessed a little further warfEtre in the
attack and defence of Fort Matagorda^ and enjoyed for a fort-
night the evening stroll on the Alameda. The packet direct
from Constantinople to England took him finally home.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTEE IV.
HILITABT LIFE AT HOHB.
The military career of lieutenant Murchison had now
come wholly to depend for its shaping upon that of lieub-
General Mackenzie. As the latter on his return home wias
appointed to command in the north of Ireland, his prospects
of fatore advancement suffered hopeless ruin, and with them
went those of his young aide-de-camp. Both aspirants for
distinction were doomed to inaction at home just as Wel-
lington was beginning his brilliant successes in the Penin-
sula, and they remained here through those eventful years —
1811 to 1814 — during which the British army established
its prestige on the continent of Europe.
With this forced inaction Murchison used to connect an
incident illustrative of one phase of the society of England
at the tima General Mackenzie had been a £Bivoimte with the
Prince Begent, and continued to be so until one fatal night
after his return firom Sicily. The story is thus told by his
nephew : — "My uncle was in the pit of the Opera when Sir
A Murray, the gentleman-usher of the Princess of Wales,
came down to him fix>m her box and conveyed the flattering
Digitized by VjOOQIC
56 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80K [mi.
message that her Boyal Highness wished to see him. Hesi-
tating for a moment^ for he well knew how the Prince hated
her, he unfortunately assented, in the belief that no one
could refuse a royal command. Of course, the Princess
having got one of the Prince's clique, and a handsome
feUow, in hand, made the most of her conquest, not only by
parading him in front of the box, but also by taking him
home to sup with her. The late Lord Hertford, who was
the constant gossip of the Prince, went at the usual hour
next morning, and whilst H!. R H. was shaving said, —
'Well, Sir, strange things come to pass. Mac was
with the Princess in her box last night, and went home
with her to supper.' The razor fell from the royal hand,
and at once he took a dislike to my uncle, who never saw
him afterwards. But to soften his fall the Grand Cross of
the Hanoverian Order was sent to him, the Prince saying,
' Mac is a handsome fellow, and will look well in it' "
On his return from Messina, Murchison had again to
betake himself to dull barrack-duty at Horsham with the
second battalion of the 36th regiment, to which he belonged.
He had not yet discovered any form of mental occupation
which might serve to make even that monotonous sort of
life not unprofitable. On his own confisssion, he gave him-
sdf up to walking feats, lessons in pugilism, horses, and the
other pursuits with which a young military dandy contrives
to fill up his time. In the midst of this aimless life he
gladly obeyed a summons from his imcle to join him as
aide-de-camp in the north of Ireland, where the General
had been appointed to the command of a division.
Everything at first promised well in this new sphere of
action. But when he had furly settled down in his quarters
Digitized by VjOOQIC
181L] GABRISOir LIFE IN IRELAND. 67
ia the town of Armagh, the aide-de-camp found them even
more intolerably dull than Horsham, with a vastly greater
distance from anything like the pleasures of society. His
companion at this time, the Comte de Clermont, a young
French 4migrS, holding the rank of captain in our service,
had been appointed by General Mackenzie to be aide-
de-camp with Murchison. With every disposition to be
amused, the two young men found it no easy task to keep
themselves in good humour in Armagh. Having no kind
of military duty to perform, they spent their mornings in
hare-hunting with slow beagles. During the day they were
often to be found at a neighbouring rectory, drawn partly
by the whimsicality of the jolly parson, and partly by the
charms of his young ladies, among whom each of them con-
trived to fall deeply in love. From the rector^s humour and
Miss B — ^"s attractions the change to the dull lonely evenings
at Armagh was no doubt intolerable. Now and then a tea-
party came off in their honour. When that form of excite-
ment failed they had the chance of a game at tric-trac with
ttie (General, who however would dismiss them at nine
o'clock to their lodging over a bootmakei^s shop.^
In his journal of this period there occur allusions to the
Cathedral Library, but he appears to have made little use of
it^ his chief mental exertions having been given to the dis-
cipline of his stable and the doctoring of his horses. Such
reading as he accomplished seems to have consisted of
* An Muasiiig glimpsa into this Armagh life is fumished by the
remark of a French oook wh<»n the General had taken oyer to Ireland
with him, and whose diagnst with the want of resonroes for his art, and
the intolerably pongent peat-smoke, found rent at last in the following
words, dnly chronided by the oephew : — " Cest arec infiniment de regret,
M.leQ^n^ral,qiie jeTOosquitte: mais en ▼(rit^ si je rests ioi je perdrai
et ma reputation et ma Yue."
Digitized by VjOOQIC
58 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [vsa.
Shakespeare and any sensational form of literature wliich
came to hand.
At this time of his life Mnrchison was simply one of
those numerous yoimg men who, finding in the routine of
their military duty occupation for but a small portion of the
day, and having little inclination for pursuits requiring any
degree of thought, yet happy in the possession of excellent
health, strong bodies, and good spirits, need to get an outlet
somehow for their superfluous energy. Nor does he seem
to have been more fieistidious than others in his choice as to
the direction in which that outlet was to be sought — ^feats
of pedestrianism, hunting, or horsemanship offered a ready
relief firom the tedium of military idleness.
Now and again he obtained leave to go to England, and
on these occasions, when not following the hounds in the
northern counties, he was usually to be seen dressed in the
height of fashion and airing himself on the promenades of
London. For he had now managed to pick up expensive
tastes, and indulged in an extravagance which brought him
a series of earnest expostulations both firom his guardian and
his uncle. .On his own confession he spent treble and
quadruple his allowance, and looked forward to his majority
as an event which would enable him to gratify even more
freely his fondness for display. He even talked of selling
the patrimony in Boss-shire so soon as it came into his pos-
session-^a purpose which his guardian contemplated with
horror as a frustration of the design of Dr. Murchison, who
had purchased the property as an investment for the &mily,
and who held that a small freehold estate gives a man a
better position in the country than treble its value in the
bank. Murchison of Tarradale would have a voice in his
county, Murchison of the funds could have none.
Digitized byVjOOQlC
iMi] COMING OF AQE. 59
In the midst of this purposeless extravagance it is plea-
sant to find a glimpse of better tilings. On the 27th of
January 1812, Captain Murchison became a Member of the
Bojal Institution, where he attended the lectures of Sir
Humphry Davy. No notice of this part of his London
doings, however, occurs in his journals.
At last the long-wished-for 19th February 1813 arrived,
and the young laird came of aga His guardian had urged
him to go north, see the property with his mature eyes,
and judge for himself whether he would act wisely in parting
with it. He now resolved to follow this advice. In those
days it was common to make the journey into Scotland on
horseback, or to post in one's carriage. Young Tarradale
combined the two kinds of locomotion, for he converted
his tall hunter " Buckran " into a buggy horse, and with his
groom " started ofT steadily in his high green dog-cart'"
After a short stay in Edinburgh he took the old Highland
road, and had reached Blair-Athol by the last day in March.
Nelt morning a loud thumping at his bedroom door, and
the voice of his Yorkshire groom — *' Sir, I canna get in to
Buckran ; the snaw 's blocked oop t^ way to steable," brought
before him in a way not to be forgotten one of the risks of
Highland travelling in the old daya Half a century after-
wards he was again driving with the writer of these lines
along the same road, and recalled the picture of his escape
how after incredible labours, and with a strong gillie or two at
each wheel, he managed to reach the little wayside inn of
Dalnacardoch ; how the stage-coach, trying to follow them
late in the day, was capsized over the bank of the Garry,
and the driver, guard, and passengers, after trudging for some
miles through the snow, arrived with nightfall at his inn ;
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60 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [isia.
how next day, leaving Buckran and the groom snowed up at
Dalnacardoch, and taking only a small supply of raiment
with him, he and the other passengers toiled from break£ast-
time to sunset through that most formidable of the Highland
passes — the defile of Drumouchter ; how one of the
pedestrians, a sturdy sheep-farmer, would sometimes come
to the help of two young schod-girls who were of the party,
lifting one in each arm through the heaviest drifts as if they
had been a couple of sheep ; how, after reaching and resting
at Dalwhinnie, they made their way finally to Inverness on
a snow-carriage; and how Buckran and the dog-cart did
not turn up for nearly a fortnight after.
Inverness now became for a short while his headquarters.
There, as he writes, he had " long proses " with the Provost
of the town, who was factor for the Tarradale estate. He
went over the property, and ** tasted" its soil with worthy
Provost Brown of Elgin, who pronounced it to be " good and
sharp.** like other Highland estates of the day, the land
was miserably femned. We can picture the young laird,
mounted on Buckran, and riding among the wretched hovels
of his crofters. little about the place itself, save that it
was his own birthplace and his fetther^s choice, offered any
opposition to the design he had half-formed of selling the
estate. In his journal the following passage occurs : ** When
the whole of the poor little tenants came round me and said
they would willingly pay any rent which their interpreter
into English, Bory M'Lennan, said 'so just a man as
the Provost would award/ I could not find it in my heart
to turn them adrift, though I knew them to be wretchedly
bad farmers, who hitherto had only paid their rents through
illicit distillation of whisky.** Whether it was prompted by
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IMS.] TARRADALE RENTS. 61
mere good-nature or by yoathfol impatience, this hasty
letting of the estate in the old way to poor crofters proved
in the end to be as bad a piece of policy as the young laird's
unde, General Mackenzie, declared it to be when he heard
what had been dona In a few years the rents got more and
more into arrears, until the estate was gladly sold oft
Near to Tarradale lay the lands of Ferrintosh, the property
of Forbes of Oulloden, to whom and his heirs, in considera-
tion of services rendered and losses sustained at the time of
the Bevolution, had been granted the perpetual right of
making and selling whisky at Ferrintosh, duty free. The
temptation offered by such a traffic was too great to be resisted
by the tenantry of the other estates in the neighbourhood,
who readily found a sale in Fenintosh for the whisky they
had privately distilled in their cabins or in lonely hollows of
the moors. As a consequence of such extensive evasions of
the Customs, it became at last necessary to abolish the
privil^es granted to Ferrintosh, the sum of £21,500 being
voted by Parliament in 1784 by way of compensation. But
no Act of Parliament could readily change habits which
entered so largely into the life of the peasantry of that iox
Boss-shire region. And so tiie young laird of Tarradale had
to wink at the distillation, and pocket his rents, or at least
such proportion of them as he could secure.
Two Parliamentary elections occurred while he was at
Inverness, one of them for his own county of Boss-shire,
in which he took part on the side of the Tory candidate. He
notes that at one of the election dinners he had the old chief
of Glengany opposite to him. " I saw," he writes, " that he
several times fixed me with his fierce grey eyes and bushy
eyebrows, and when the dinner was a little advanced, he put
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62 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [vsa.
his hand across the table, and leaning over said loudly to
me, 'Ye 're welcome, sir, to the land of your fathers ; may
you never desert nor forget it,' giving me a Highland grip
I can never forget"
We may believe that a relative of Donald Murchison
would not fail to receive a hearty welcome. Most of his
time, indeed, during this visit to his native district, seems
to have been passed in the enjoyment of the hospitalities
of his fijenda and acquaintances — ^fishing, shooting, and
hunting, and abundant festivity.
While amid such desultory employments and amusements
time had been creeping onward with Murchison in Ireland,
in London or elsewhere in England, and now in Scotland,
events of world-wide importance had been shaping them-
selves in the Peninsula. Step by step Wellington had
driven the French armies out of that part of Europe;
Napoleon's prestige had fallen, and at last came his abdi-
cation and retreat to Elba. Our young military aspirant
says of himself that he was '' for ever bewailing his £Eite at
not being at his real work in the Peninsula." The cam-
paign, however, had ended without his ever having had a
call into active service, and now on the peace of 1814 he
saw the final blow to all his hopes of military fame. As
his uncle threw up his Staff appointment, he himself
became a captain of the 36th on half-pay, his battalion
having been promptly reduced. London became again his
headquarters.
Of this part of his life the following notice occurs in his
journal : — "* In 18U I was in London, living gaily at Long^s .
hotel with a set of young dandies, dining now and then with
Alexander Woodford of the Guards, at St James's Palace,
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1814.] LONDON IN 1814. 63
when the announcement of the airival of the foreign
Soyereigns (Russia and Prussia) set all the metropolis in a
fennent I galloped out with maiiy others to Shooter^s Hill
to see the Emperor Alexander in his little droschke, with
his bearded Russ on the box, and certes, though there was
no state reception, he was heartily cheered, escorted by a
joyous cavalcade of well-mounted English gentlemen.
''It being announced that the Begent would visit the
Opera accompanied by his imperial and royal guests, every
cranny was bespoke, and I got a good central post in the
pit ; for in those days there were no stalls (and no shopboys
and tradesmen ever went to the pit then). The reception of
their Majesties was of course most enthusiastia They were
reaUy welcomed as our liberators firom Gallic tyranny.
''Suddenly there arose a sort of semi-applause, followed
by murmurs, with some disturbance. It was the Princess of
Wales, who had just entered a box directly facing that of
the Begent, and, as if she came to defy him and tiy her own
strength, she came forward in her hat and feathers to show
herselC A few cries were got up for her, amidst loud mur-
muring at this unseemly attempt to disturb unanimity on
such an occasion.
"Then it was that the Begent, on whose countenance I
had my eye fixed, rose, and taking the Emperor and King
on his right and left hands, advanced gracefully to the fix>nt
of the royal box, tiie three personages bowing three times to
the audience. The appeal was electric : the roar of applause
lasted for minutes, and the Princess was so discomfited that
she no more showed in the front of her box during the
evening, and retired soon to her pdU sowper and her
clique."
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64 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [i8i4.
In the crowd of English travelleis who eagerly availed
themselves of the reopening of the Continent, Murchison
found his way to Paris in the beginning of November 1814.
He remained there for some weeks, which he employed with
the most laudable assiduity in trying to make himself as
French as he could. He dined and spent much of his time
in a pension where no English was spoken, took lessons in
dancing firom one of the leading teachers, frequented the
theatres, passed many an hour over the pictures in the
Louvre (for he was now beginning to aspire to be a connois-
seur in art), was presented at Court, and in company with
his old Mend and fellow-aide-de-camp De Clermont, who
had returned to Paris with the Sestoration, saw everybody
and everything which had any interest for " a young man
about town.** There occur among his memoranda notices of
the actors and the acting at some of the theatres. ^ I could
not," he says, " qidte get over the solemnity and monotony
of the French rhythm at the Th^tre Fran^ais, where I went,
book in hand, to hear Talma in Comeille's ' Cinna^' supported,
as he was, by Madlle. de Hancour and by Georges. It was
gratifying, however, to see how he first broke the sing-song
by his imitation of Kemble and the English style by ejacu-
lations and stops in the middle of some of the long lines of
Bacine.
" The best actor of high comedy I ever saw was Fleury.
Having been taught before the Bevolution, he was every inch
a gentleman, and his countrymen of good taste said despond-
ingly of him, ' C'est le dernier des Fran^ais qui sait porter
Wp^e.' "When I saw how vulgarly most of the other actors
of the revolutionary breed dressed and acted, carrying their
swords like butchers' knives, I felt the truth of the aphorism."
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1814-15.] IN FRANCE IN 1814-15. 65
His mother was then living at Tours, and Murchison paid
her a visit there. His chief companion there seems to have
been Francis Hare (elder brother of Augustus and Julius),
whose versatility and dash captivated him, and with whom he
made excursions. Among other places, they visited together
Poitiers, where Hare introduced him to Walter Savage Landor,
then resident at that place. " Landor lived at the summit of
a large central tower, which overlooked the whole city, and
there we found the impetuous but warm-hearted philosopher
ensconced in a library filled with all the most curious old
French works, Babelais being his special favourite. He and
Hare held a disputation on Louis the Eleventh and. his
doings, as we looked down upon the remnants of the palace
of that craftiest of all the French kings."
In such pursuits the last weeks of 1814 and the first two
months of the following year passed away, until at the b^in-
ning of March he found himself again in Paris on his home-
ward journey. The morning after his arrival, his Swiss
servant roused him with the momentous tidings, '^ Napoleon
has landed in France !" The following narrative of this part of
his experience is given by himself : — " To jump up, hurry
on my clothes, rush out to the Caf^, already full of anxious
and inquiring faces, was my first movement ; then to read
the morning papers, most of them trying to make light of
the affair, and saying it would be all soon put down. Next
came reports that he had capitulated ; then that he was ad-
vancing to Grenobla Bight and left the English now were
eyed inimically in the streets, low and vulgar officers elbowed
you, and things became mightily unpleasant in the course
of that day. On the following day, when more news had
arrived, hopes were up, — ^the garrison at Grenoble had re-
VOL. I. E
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66 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isu-ie.
sisted, and Napoleon's cause was lost ; then a camp was to
be fonned at Melun^ and the Due de Beni was to command
it ; the Mar&hal Ney having sworn fidelity to Louis xvm.
This last, which was true, seemed the best chance, for Ney
was beloved by the soldiers. Then followed a review of all
the royal guards and regiments in Paris, 10,000 or 12,000
men, in the Carrousel in front of the balcony of the Tuileries,
in which the fat old Louis waddled out in his velvet boots to
be saluted by the loyal troops.
"I attended on that occasion, and never saw such a
farce. The soldiers of the line surrounding the National
Guards were all cracking jokes with each other ; and though
they still wore the white cockade, they were evidently all
dying to mount the tricolor.**
He went to see his Mend at Court, the young Comte de
Clermont, and found him fully aware of the fact that the
army would not stand by the King, and that resistance was
therefore hopeless. Evidently Paris was no longer a desir-
able domicile for an English officer. De Clermont advised
him to leave at once. The English visitors were already in
rapid flight thronging the usual road to Calais, and hiring
every available conveyance that would take them to the
coast. Captain Murchison rightly conjectured that by mak-
ing a detour by way of B^thune and St Omer, he would
have some chance of securing post-horses, and reaching
Calais. Not without some risk, however, could English
travellers make their way along the roads of France at that
time. Coming out of B^thune he met the head of an in-
fantry regiment which, from the narrowness of the roadway,
had to pass the carriage in single file. '' ' Que sont ces
Messieurs,' they cried out; 'Ce sont des d'Anglais.
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18U-15.] BECOMES CAPTAIN OF DRAGOONS. 67
Allons, renversez les it la baionette/ Drunken as they
were, and all in the greatest excitement, they had raised the
wheels, and were actually about to trundle us over into the
ditch of the fortress, and were unharnessing the horses, just
as the adjutant rode up and applied a thick cane to their
shoulders, and rescued us. We afterwards met with others
of these soldiers in detached parties, and in complete dis-
order, but we kept dose shut up in our machine. At Arras
the captain of the guard sulkily let us pass the gates after
looking at our passports, saying, ' £t bien, je n'ai jpas encore
leqn des ordres.' '*
The war-clouds having once more spread over Europe,
there seemed now again some hope of obtaining active mili-
tary service, and gaining coveted promotion. So the half-
pay captain of infantiy determined at once to enter one of
the cavalry r^ments which were to take part in the im-
pending Belgian campaign. In doing so, however, he acted
without the advice and indeed against the wishes of his
nnde. General Mackenzie, who, vexed at this want of con-^
fidence, wrote to his mother that he considered the entering
into the cavaliy as a '^ measure full of the most stupid foUy."
Notwithstanding this protest, the exchange was made, Mur-
chison joined the Enniskillen Dragoons, and seems now to
have looked forward with tolerable confidence to a chance
of distinguishing himsel£ But even though he had the
promise of employment from the Colonel, who was his per-
sonal friend, he was once more fated to disappointment, and
the predictions of his unde proved too true. Six troops only
were ordered out, and every one of the service captains in-
sisting on going ; he had no alternative but to equip himself
with uniform and horses, and repair to the depot at Ipswich«
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68 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON, [1815.
Events crowded rapidly upon each other during the
hundred days, — ligny, Quatre Bras, and, lastly, Waterloo.
Then fell Murchison's hopes of an active military career.
The war was at an end Europe had now been so worn out
with fighting that no new campaign was likely to' take
shape for many a long year to come ; and, in the meanwhile,
he had no brighter prospect than the mnui of half-pay.
He was now, however, nearing the event which, in the
end, proved the turning-point of his career. His mother,
like other English residents in France, had deemed it pru-
dent to quit that country after Napoleon's return, and had
settled for a little at Ryde, in the Isle of Wight. Thither
her son went to visit her, and there, through the introduc-
tion of Miss Maria Porter, he made the acquaintance of
Greneral and Mrs. Hugonin of Nursted House, Hampshire,
and their daughter Charlotte. This young lady was, to use
his own words, " attractive, piquante, clever, highly edu-
cated, and about three years my senior." He first met her
early in the summer of 1815, and, on the 29th of the
following August, in the romantic little church of Buriton,
in Hampshire, they were married.
Want of success in the military life had disposed Cap-
tain Murchison to look on that career with less enthusiastic
feelings than those of earlier years. He had even gone so
far as to think of retiring from the army ; and now this
half-formed intention received a stimulus from two sources.
His wife, herself the daughter of a soldier, had experienced
some of the discomforts of a soldier's life, and discerning in
her husband qualities of a higher kind than would be likely
to be called out by the routine of barrack-duty, seconded
his own inclinations. But perhaps the more immediate
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181&] RETIRES FROM THE ARMY. 69
cause of his final detennination was an order to join his
regiment at Bomford barracks. To take his bride there,
that she might share the dulness with which his experience
at Horsham and Armagh had made him only too familiar, was
a most distasteful prospect ; so at last he made up his mind
and sent in his resignation. His commanding officer re-
monstrated with him, but in vain. He stuck to his purpose.
After eight years' service he finally retired from the army
and gave up all those visions of military glory which filled
his whole soul in the old Marlow day&
It is evident that> up to this period of his life, Murchison
had not in any way given promise of future distinction. He
would have been noted as merely one of the gentlemanly,
intelligent, but by no means brilliant young officers, so
plentiful in the British army. To one who judged him
merely by externals, he would undoubtedly have seemed
little else than a military fop, and he used in later years to
confess that such an estimate would have been tolerably
trua The circumstances which were to call out his special
qualities of excellence had not yet arisen. Full of health
and bodily activity, he had from the beginning looked on
the military profession rather as an outlet for that part of
his nature than as a career requiring any special mental
training. In those days, indeed, professional study was not
much in fashion in the army. After quitting Marlow he
does not appear to have given himself in any degree to
acquiring further knowledge of the principles of the art of
war. In his journals there can be found no trace of pro-
fessional study, nor indeed of solid reading of any kind.
His leisure, which must often have hung heavily on his
hands, was spent, as we have seen, in active field-sports, in
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70 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK [wis.
feats of bodily exercise, or in gratifying that love of display
which led him into culpable extravagance ; so that when he
quitted the army, there was little to look back upon with
unmingled satisfaction in that introductoiy part of his career.
He had entered the service with high hopes of distinction,
but by a series of unfortunate circumstances, and through no
fault of his own, he had been grievously disappointeA The
war had now come to an end, and with it went his visions
of rising to distinction in a campaign. He had not qualified
himself for distinction in any other way, and we can well
imagine how he should have turned aside at last almost
with repugnance from a career which at the beginning
seemed to promise all that he most desired.
Hitherto he had lived at his own free wilL From this
time he came under the influence of a thoughtful, cultivated,
and affectionate woman. Quietly and imperceptibly that
influence grew, leading him with true womanly tact into a
sphere of exertion where his uncommon powers might find
full scope. To his wife he owed his fame, as he never failed
gratefully to record, but years had to pass before her guidance
had accomplished what she had set before her as her aim.
The wedding over, Murchison took his bride north to
show her the Scottish Highlands, and to visit his friends
and relatives there. Of course he did not fail to lead her
over the paternal acres of Tarradale, and show her some of
the scenes where his ancestors had distinguished themselves.
Among other houses they visited that of an old lady, a
grand-aunt of his, who had intended leaving her estate to
him or his brother Kenneth, but unfortunately for him, as
she confided to his young wife, " he had too much of the
Baillies about him," his grandmother having been a Baillie ;
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1815.] PROPOSES TO ENTER THE CHURCH. 71
and 80 the estate, which would have been a welcome addi-
tion to the badly paid rents of Tarradale, passed into other
hands. Late in October, and in a storm of snow, they
migrated southwards again.
Having given up one fixed employment the retired cap-
tain of dragoons began to look about for another. It will
hardly be believed by those who only knew him in his later
years that he now seriously thought of becoming a clergj'-
man. In this proposal, as in his choice of a military pro-
fession, it seems to have been mainly his love of bodily
activity and open-air exercise which swayed him. He says
of himself, — " I saw that my wife had been brought up to
look after the poor, was a good botanist, enjoyed a garden
and liked tranquillity ; and as parsons then enjoyed a little
hunting, shooting,and fishing without being railed at,I thought
that I might slide into that sort of comfortable domestic
life." Among the letters which he preserved there occurs
one from a friend whom he had asked to make inquiries for
him, and who went into the question in the most earnest
and business-like manner. This correspondent urges the
necessity of getting a Greek Lexicon, and suggests the
name of a clergyman who might be of service in helping the
aspirant for holy orders to read the Greek Testament So
earnest is he about the Lexicon and other heavy tomes, that
he insists upon Murchison's having them conveyed separately
if he could find no room for them in the carriage with
which he proposed to make a journey to Switzerland.^
* The gravity with which the question was viewed may be gathered
from one or two sentences taken from this letter : — " In consequence of
the peace we may expect ao irruption of officers into the Church, which
may produce an additional strictDess of regulation. I am not aware in
what time a degree may be taken at Cambridge ; any Cambridge man
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72 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [wis.
Fortunately for himself and his possible parishioners this
notion soon died away. Butwhile still undecided about enter-
ing the Church he resolved in the meantime to see a little of
the world with his wife. The winter was accordingly passed
at Nursted House, in diligent preparation for a long and
leisurely tour on the Continent He had already attained
considerable proficiency in French. As the tour was to be
extended into Italy, he now set diligently to work to acquire
further knowledge of Italian, and to read a quantity of litera-
ture treating of the scenery and history of Italy. Probably
this was the most industrious winter he had yet spent ; for
he had now a definite incentive to work, besides the example
and co-operation of his wife. A day now and then with the
Hambledon fox-hounds, or old Tom Barham's beagles at
Petersfield, or with his gun and his father-in-law at home,
kept him fiom suffering from such an unwonted application
to books.
would tell yon. The examiDation is almost nothing. Not so at Oxford,
where the whole system would present to you considerable difficulty."
*' Surely as you are so well known in Ireland you might find a favourable
bishop in that country, and the journey would be the work of a fortnight.
At any rate, pray do not giye up your exoeUent plans, dSgoiUt.*^ *' I will in
your absence, without mentioning your name, make every inquiry I can.
The stability and weU-being of our Church depends so much upon the
respectability and fitness of its ministers that we can only quarrel with
those forms and preliminaries to ordination when they come in competi.
tion with our own favourite wishes '' 1
In a note-book of 1815 there occurs a most formidable list of books which
it seems Murchison had jotted down with the intention of using them in his
proposed clerical education. They are in Greek, Latin, French, Italian,
and English, and with his characteristic methodical habits he has classi-
fied them under various heads, as " Religion," ** Eloquence," " History,"
<' Belles-Lettres," etc etc.
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CHAPTER V.
ITALY AND ART.
With the proposal of a country parson's lot still undecided,
and indeed with no settled plans for the future, Mr. and Mrs.
Murchison had determined in the meantime to spend a year
or two abroad. This resolution had been, in some measure,
forced upon them by the state of their finances. The Tarra-
dale rents, never very well paid, even at the best, had almost
ceased to yield any income, and times were so bad that the
tenantry petitioned for alleviation. His revenue from other
sources was not great, certainly not enough to enable the
young laird and his wife to live comfortably in England,
It was suflBcient, however, to permit them to enjoy comfort,
and even el^ance, in Italy. So that, until some decision
had been come to r^arding the fate of the Highland pro-
perty, a sojourn on the Continent was deemed absolutely
necessary.
This enforced exile, however, proved in the end emi-
nently advantageous in other than a pecuniary sense, Mrs.
Murchison had shrewdly discerned her husband's true nature
and the way in which it should be developed. She saw that
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74 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isic.
with his tastes and habits he would be far less likely to
break ofiP from a useless kind of life at home than if placed
amidst a totally new set of pursuits and acquaintances
abroad And thus the continental sojourn was planned
and the notes of travel were prepsired that the foreign
sceneiy and associations should act as powerfully as possible
on his mind. It was a sagacious experiment, and it suc-
ceeded. In this chapter we have to trace how it was carried
out. Its fruits will appear in later pages.
On Good Friday 1816 the young pair sailed from Dover,
and taking with them their own carriage, posted by easy
stages from Calais to Paris. About a year had elapsed
since the hurried flight from that capital noticed in the
preceding chapter, and now the masons were found to be
busy on scaflfolds removing the letter N from the public
buildings. On that previous visit Murchison had made
himself tolerably familiar with the contents of the Louvre^
then enriched with the spoils of Europe; and his first
object now was to see how the galleries looked after having
been made to yield back their treasures to the rightful
owners. He was " astonished to observe how rapidly the
vacant places had been filled up, and not unfrequently by
good old Italian pictures, which had also been stolen, but
which not having been exposed in the Great Gallery were
not known to exist in France."
During a most systematic tour of the sights of Paris he
attended a meeting of the Academy (which many years later
was to enrol him among its foreign members), and saw Cuvier
for the first time, who declaimed upon the influence of the
sciences on the common occupations of man, and upon the
leading share which France had taken in promoting this
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1816.] GENEVA SUNDAYS. 76
influence — a share which would have been yet greater
had it not been thwarted by the perfde poliMque of
England.
From Paris they journeyed in the same leisurely way
by Dijon to Geneva. Though Murchison had as yet shown
no special interest in science^ he now began to make the
acquaintance of scientific men in the places he visited, and
paid some attention to their museums At (}eneva> for
example^ he met among others Pictet the naturalist, and De
CandoUe the botanist He found too that " the same rigid
solemnity was observed there on the streets on Sunday as
in Edinburgh — all demure and starch." "I induced," he .
writes, '' good Madame Peschier to go a drive (and we had
been at morning service), but when descending the steep
street from the house a grave-looking churchwarden, who
was going to afternoon service in his black silk stockings
and a gold chain, came up to us, and holding out his watch,
pulled up our horse, and exclaimed, ' Madame Peschier, je
suis ^tonn^ ! vous auriez dii connaltre que pendant les
heures de T^glise on ne va pas en voiture.' "
The summer was spent at Vevay, where he took a little
villa. His wife's ancestors had come into England frx>m
that part of the Pays de Vaud about a hundred years before.
She found some distant relations there who made the sojourn
at Vevay a memorably pleasant one. Many excursions
were made to surrounding parts of Switzerland, the ladies
usuaUy driving or riding, while Murchison himself delighted
in keeping pace with them on foot Leaving his wife in
charge of her Svdss cousins, he undertook some feats of
pedestrianism of which he used to boast in his old age. On
one occasion he walked 452 miles in fourteen days, on
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76 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [isie-ir.
the last day of whicli excursion he accomplished 57 miles.
In another excursion to Mont Blanc he walked 120 miles in
three days. Such rapid marching is suggestive rather of
exultation in bodily activity than of intelligent appreciation
of scenery. Yet his singtdar power of rapidly seizing the main
features of a landscape enabled him to carry away some vivid
impressions of what he saw, and even to note some of the
details. In his itinerary journal, he speaks of the Grindel-
wald glacier as a '' river of ice," and among his notes there
occurs a detailed narrative of the processes in use at one of
the Swiss salt-mines.
An interesting episode of their life at Vevay may be
noticed here. A terrific thunderstorm broke one night (13th
June) over the lake in front of them, and, roused from sleep,
they sat watching from the window a scene never to be
forgotten. Some months afterwards they read at Bome the
now well-known lines in the then newly published Third
Canto of ChUde Harold : —
" And this is in the night ! — Most glorious is the night,
Thoa wert not sent for sltunber ! let me be
A sharer in thy fierce and far delight, —
A i>ortion of the tempest and of thee !
How the lit lake shines, a phosphoric sea.
And the big rain comes dancing to the earth !
And now again *tis black, — and now, the glee
Of the loud hills shakes with its mountain-mirth
As if it did rejoice o'er a young earthquake's birth.*'
The passage recalled their experience at Vevay, and brought
to their recollection that they had met Byron walking from
Vevay to Clarens on the day before the thunderstorm which
he has immortalized.
The winter of 1816-17 was passed at Genoa, studying
Italian, and kindling a passion for art and art-galleries, which
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i8ir.] ROME AND THE GALLERIES. 11
a few months later was to burst into a most portentous blaze
at Bome. Murchison found opportunity too of practising his
favourite exercise — ^walking, in which, as his notes record,
he outstripped two yoimg officers since known as intrepid
travellers — Irby and Mangles. In one of his excursions
marine shells were noted upon some of the hill-tops, and he
infers that these high grounds were once under the sea.
By the 21st of March, ere Holy Week began, the two
travellers had reached Rome. Owing to the cessation of the
war and the reopening of the Continent, the city happened
to be at this time crowded with strangers.
Established, however, in a private lodging in the Via
Condotti, Murchison avoided gaiety, and became now a con-
firmed dilettante. Day by day, accompanied and incited by
his wife, he visited gallery after gallery, and church after
church, making elaborate notes on the pictures and other
works of art He seems to have left little in Bome unseen,
and his jottings, written at a time when the profuse modem
literature of " Guide-books " and " Hand-books " had not yet
made its appearance, show a creditable degree of zeal and
intelligence. The general style and tenor of those art-notes
and criticisms may be judged of from the following specimen
of his journal : —
'^ Rome, Jwne 13^, 1817. — Palazzo Colonna. — Four
superb landscapes of Salvator Bosa (doubtful) ; marine views,
with armed men and fishermen in the foregroimd. The
light and distances have the light of Claude, the foreground
less of the savageness of Salvator than usual Two fine
heads of Carlo Dolci, one St Catherine, the other a saint
chained. Some good heads of Guercino, and a fine small
piece or two bj Conca. Many good landscapes of .Poussin
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78 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [mi.
in tempera, and one beautiful bluish landscape of Lucatelli,
marine, with great depth : this is in his best style. The
Bella Cenci needs no description. Guido is more expressive
here than in his fine exuberant Madonna above stairs.
There are two little Claudes, and a Titian, etc. There are a
good many pictures of the inferior and later Boman artists ;
some of these are pleasing. Graetano Lapis (1776), a scholar
of Conca ; same light colouring, but no confidence in him-
self! His best picture here appeared to me a Lazarus with
Christ (doubtful). The frescos of Stefano Pozzi in first room
are bright and pretty (Turk smoking). The column of Bellona
(twisted) of T08S0 antico, with Pallas on the top, very beautiful.
A Dead Christ by Franc<> Trevisani (d. 1746. Sc. Eom),
not Angelo Trevisani (Venet Sc. same epoch). In this
Christ the foreshortening is remarkable, the colouring
Guidesco. He was a universal imitator."
Of the acquaintances whom Murchison made at Eome
the most notable waa the sculptor Canova, with whom he
had frequent intercourse at the house of Cavaliere Tambroni,
then a sort of chief of art From his journal and a pencil
note written late in life the following reminiscences of the
sculptor are given : —
''When asked what he thought the most wonderful
structure in Britain (for he had recently visited England),
he at once replied, ' Waterloo Bridge.' Of the antiquities in
the British Museum he gave unquestionable precedence to
the nissus of the Parthenon, preferring it on account of the
inimitable schiena to the Theseus.
"He narrated to me how he overcame Buonaparte's
obstinacy, who at first insisted that the great sculptor
should represent him in marble in the garb of the con-
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1817.] REMINISCENCES OF CANOVA. 79
quering French General with cocked hat, straight cut coat,
and top-boots — ^hunting-boots *k TAnglais/ Canova stood
firm in refusing, and when he said to the future Napoleon,
* Then your Excellency must find other artists, and I can
recommend both a tailor and a bootmaker in the Corso,' the
Corsican at once saw a man of taste and genius must have
his own way, and Napoleon came out in classical toga, etc.
" Canova was a very active man, and when debarred of
his exercise by too much work in the studio, he was in the
habit of jumping backwards and forwards over his modest
bed, and, proud of his agility, he did it before ma
"This eminent sculptor passes an hour or two every
evening at Madame Tskmbroni's ; at nine o'clock he invari-
ably retires. Had a long conversation with him the other
night He observed to me, that when in London nothing
offended his eye more than the smoky brick houses with
dear painted windows, and was surprised they were not all
white-washed. He spoke of the absolute necessity of our
having a museum superior to that of Somerset House. The
education of English women delighted him, and he the more
regretted the state of his own compatriotes. He asked why
all the English began their Italian with Dante and Boccaccio.
Metastasio seems to be his favourite author. The style of
the one in literature is similar to that of the other in sculp-
ture — both chaste, classical, graceful, and full of pathos. He
said of Metastasio's critics, ' Quei che lo criticano, lo leggono ;
e poi piangono.'
" In Canova's studio no one appears more conspicuously
than the distorted Giaccomino. Ask him where he has been,
and he answers, * We have been modelling above stairs, il
cavaliere ed io.' Giaccomino was a poor, good-humoured
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80 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK [1817.
coontiyman, whom Canova employed as a sort of lower ser-
vant in the workshop. He sometimes hands the morsels of
clay to his master whilst he is forming the cast, and from
hence Giaccomino concludes that at least half the merit is
his own. He freely canvasses every new attitude, and
Canova says, ' E mio maestro Giaccomino/ and always asks
for his opinion upon any new work. In these little traits
the playful bonhomie of the great sculptor is pleasingly
exhibited.
" To judge of Canova's simplicity, examine his house.
You will find. every article neat and appropriate ; no luxury,
but the utmost cleanliness and regularity^4oubly delightful
in so filthy a cotmtry. Two of his bedrooms are ornamented
with his own paintings. During the French invasion he
occupied himself for eighteen months with the brush and
palette. The compositions are in general just what you
might look for from the graceful mind of the artist — a
sleeping Venus intruded upon by a peeping Satyr, Venus
with Cupids, etc. The colouring is Titianesco, and very
wonderfuL These pictures have already the mellowed tone
of the colouring of the old masters ; and a head of an old
carter (a portrait from life) is painted expressly to deceive
as an antique.
'* Madame T. related to me, that when Canova first
imagined his group of the Graces, he happened to be in the
coxmtry visiting the Cavaliere T. Here there were no fine
models, but females must be found. Accordingly, two laige
and fat female domestics of Madame T. were paraded, who,
with herself formed the graceful trio. Their attitudes must
have been most diverting to Canova whilst he drilled and
practised them. Canova is now nearly sixty years of age, yet
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mr,] ROME AND NAPLES. 81
constitution and physical powers are such that he can jump
over his bedstead d pie pari, and can extend a prodigious
weight with his arm."
Three months specially given up to fine art soon passed
away in Some. The journal in which the record of that
time was so elaborately chronicled is, however, more a dry
inventory of what the writer saw than of what he thought
and felt^ Now and then he varied his researches by an
excursion into the country, but an unfortunate event cut
short these occupations. His wife caught a malaria fever,
and became so ill that he despaired of her life. Ballying at
last, she was able to be moved firom Some at the end of
Jime to seek a change of air and the sea-breeze at Naples.
FuU of details though the journal is regarding the
stay at Naples, Uttle occurs of any general interest, or
which throws any firesh light upon Murchison's own char-
acter and development. He visited, of course, all the
usual places of resort in that neighbourhood. The nearer
excursions were made with his wife, but in company with a
military friend he accomplished a series of boating expedi-
tions to Psestum, Capri, Ischia, and Procida, seeing a good
deal both of scenery and of Italian life outside of the ordi-
nary beaten track of tourists. He was lucky enough to
come in for an eruption of Vesuvius, and ascended the
^ Ko mention ocenrt in the journal of his havin at this time made the
acquaintance of Mrs. SomeirUle and her husband. In her charming
Perdonal BecoUecthns (p. 122), she thus alludes to the incident : — <* Our
great geologist, Sir Roderick Murchison, with his wife, were among the
T^gH«^ residents at Rome. At that time he hardly knew one stone from
another. He had been an officer in the Dragoons, an excellent horseman,
and a keen fox-hunter. Lady Murchison,— an amiable and accomplished
woman, with solid acquirements, which few ladies at that time possessed.
... It was then that a friendship began between them and us, which
will only end with life."
VOL. L F
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82 SIB RODERICK MURCHISON. [1817.
mountain when a current of lava was streaming down its
side. To get the better view he made the ascent by night,
and there being no moon, had an impressive view of the
huge lurid crater, with its rocket-like showers of red-hot
stones, and scrambled over the hardened but still hot surface
of lava to see where the molten mass came out in a glowing
stream from the side of the cone. His notes of this visit
are simply those of an intelligent and interested spectator;
they betray not the slightest geological predilection.
In Naples, as in Kome, his fetvourite occupation was to
visit the art-galleries and altar-pieces in the churches, and
to write out detailed descriptions of the pictures and statues
in his joumaL Even the sight of the miracle of the
liquefying of the blood of St. Januarius could hardly inter-
rupt the art-fever ; for though the saint gratified the curio-
sity of the two travellers and the prayers of the orthodox by
thawing the blood in three minutes instead of keeping them
waiting for hours, the enthusiastic but irreverent dilettante
writes in his diary, ** We slipped away from the altar to
admire, not the works of the saint, but the sublime repre-
sentations of them by Domenichino."
Early in October 1817 Murchison returned with his
wife to Bome, and wintered there. Art again became his
absorbing pursuit. Every gallery was once more visited,
fresh notes were duly entered in his journals. His criticisms,
after a few months of experience, are spiced with the dog-
matism and the pet phrases of a confirmed connoisseur of
many years' standing.
Having taken his fill of art and the galleries, Murchison
next set to work with equal industry upon the antiquities
of Home. A good part of the winter of 1817-18 was spent
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1817-18.] ANTIQUARIAN RAMBLES IN ROME. 83
in sediQously tracing the lines of the several walls, and the
position and remains of temples and public buildings. He
entered with his characteristic zeal into the disputed locali-
ties of the Forum, and not content with reading such of the
lucubrations on this subject as he could reach, he wrote in
his journal voluminous comments of his own upon previous
writers, and gave the observations he himseK had made,
with the conclusions to which they had led him. He re-
vived his long disused and never very familiar Horace,
Virgil, and Juvenal, with whose allusions to Bome and
Boman sites he interspersed his notes. The following
extracts may suffice as a specimen of the style of these
antiquarian memoranda : —
" Orotto of JEgeria, —
< In yallem Mg^tiab desoendimm atqne spelanoM
Diasimiles yeria.'
In Juvenal's day great had been the alteration of the
little consecrated grot of old Kuma, which was of tu£Gu
Now this is the only tufa cavern in this valley. In the
time of Cicero the simple old cavern was decorated with
marbles and statues, and became ' dissimiles veris ;' now
the present work as extant, and the reticulated brick, are
all of the latter end of the Bepublic The recumbent statue
of the man proves nothing, as the figure evidently repre-
sents a river (viz. the Almo, which rises here), from the urn
under his arm. The goddess might have been placed in the
same niche above him. Everjrthing marks this distinctly to
have been the sacred spot
" Templvm RedictUi. — Positively a temple and no tomb,
Mr. Eustace.^ The cella and component parts remain.
1 He refers to Eustace*! Cfku9ieal T<mr^~tk work which he studied
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84 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [1817-18.
Hannibal might first have appeared here, and then making
a detour might have encamped on the other side of the
town. It has been rebuilt in the age of Severus. Four
styles of architecture are to be observed in it
** Baths of CaracallcL — ^Double purpose, bathing and
amusement. The baths were below ground, and had no
communication with the halls above, no staircase having
ever been discovered. The great portico to the west, with
the various little chambers, was a quarter for troops, from
which a spiral staircase conducted to a terrace above for
parade and exercise ; but no communication took place by
doors between these chambers. The grand central mass of
building was entirely enveloped and shut in from sight by
a still more vast pile. These covers or cases for buildings
were common to the Bomans, for in this exterior an uni-
form height was preserved, which hid all the inequalities
of height and construction of the internal pile. This will
account for the arphes of different elevations. . . .
** Cecilia Metdla. — Sepublican work : crowned with an
entablature, and formerly with an attic and a dome.
" Forum Romanum. —
' Vespertinamqne pererro
Saepe Fonun.' Hob. Sat, i. tL
Old Horace could not have enjoyed his evening walk there
more than I do, and one great delight consists in the ima-
gining that I behold some relics of those very buildings
which he admired. Away then, ye cold sceptics who drive
everything to such an extreme that at last ye begin to
doubt whether ancient Bome did really exist here, or
before le«Ting En^^d, and wliioh he seems to liAve carried about with
him in Italy, and to have found as unsatisfactory a guide as Byron did.
(See Notezzzii. to Canto iv. of Chiide Harold,)
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1818.] RAMBLES IN THE ROMAN CAMPAONA. 85
whether the Tiber may not have changed its course ! They
will tell you (even Nardin and others) that most part of the
columns have been re-erected in subsequent ages on or near
the spot where they had fallen or been pulled down. But,
oh ye learned sceptics ! what Pope, Antipope, or Goth, may
I humbly crave, would ever have had the genius of archi-
tecture and the love of classical remains impressed so deeply
on his mind that he should wish to raise up broken entab-
latures of colossal size, and mutilated columns, in order that
he might be called a man of taste ? If, therefore, none of
these re-erections took place in the dark ages, which I
think any reasonable man will allow, we can have little
difSculty in proving that such attempts have not been made
since the revival of letters in the fifteenth century. Private
and public history are both silent on this point, whilst on a
number of trivial little subjects, such as that Lorenzo di
Medici robbed the Dacian captives on the Arch of Con-
stantine of their heads, and other similar facts, we have
abundant details."
While this antiquarian fever lasted, he made an excur-
sion on foot to Prseneste, walked along ancient highways
now deserted, but still level and unbroken, looked into the
memorable crater-hollow of the lake of Begillus, with a half-
antiquarian, half-military, but in nowise geological eye,
remai'king that the allies had much the better position, since
the Bomans had to charge up hill ; scrambled up to the
Cyclopean walls of Prseneste, and from the summit of the
town let his eye wander over that marvellous landscape, so
rich in association, from the far southern Apennines away
across the Alban and Yolscian hills, into the limitless
Campagna.
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86 SIR RODERICK MURCUI80K [isi8.
About the middle of March (1818) Mr, and Mrs. Mur*
chison quitted Borne for a leisurely journey homewards.
At Florence they lingered for three weeks, chiefly among
the galleries and museums. Again his note-books teem with
descriptions and criticisms of the pictures, his later studies
at Bome having given him greater confidence than ever in
his judgments on art Michael Angelo receives a special
measure of his critical wrath. More interesting is it to
mark that among his notes of Florence some space is
given to an account of the Museum of Natural History,
particularly that portion in which the successive stages in
the growth of animals were illustrated. From Florence the
journey led by short stages, and with many a halt, to
Bologna, Modena, Parma, and Turin, thence by Mont Cenis
into Switzerland, and then by way of Lyons to Paris, and
so home.
Bather more than two years had thus glided away on
the Continent ; two memorable years in Murchison's life.
They taught him, in a way which would have been little
likely to occur to him at home, the superiority of such pur-
suits as called for the exercise of thought and taste over the
more frivolous employments of barrack-life. It is true that
his wife was always at his side to share in his pleasures and
incite him to further perseverance in the new line of occu-
pation. • But her influence was little needed after the first
decided tendency had been given to his inclinations. He
soon became a far more enthusiastic lover of art than she,
and must no doubt have often tried her bodily strength to
the utmost in his hunt through churches and galleries for
Guides and Baphaels, Caraccis and Domenichinos, in all
the stages and styles of each painter. For the time, he was
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1818.] INFLUENCE FROM ART. 87
absorbed in art and Boman antiquities. It was the first
taste he had yet had of the pleasures of continuous intel-
lectual employment, and he threw himself into it with all
the eagerness and enthusiasm of his nature.
He had a natural weakness for display, which in his
military days, as we have seen, took shape in fashionable
clothes, horses, and the other extravagances by which a
young man in the army pontrives to get rid of his money.
In Italy no such temptation came in his way. For the time
he was left to the influence of his wife and his own better
nature, with the result of receiving a deeper and better im-
press on his character from these two years abroad than from
his eight years in uniform. Unconsciously he was sowing
seeds which would in after years bear fruit of a very different
kind. Through art he first realized the advantage of a dis-
tinctly intellectual life over one of mere desultory gaiety.
It was not art which was to furnish his future stimulus,
and, as we shall find, it did not even suffice to keep him
from relapsing into some of his old ways when the tempta-
tion came back again. But his art-studies in Italy formed
the starting-point of a new life for him, and led the way
to all the work and honours that were to come.
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CHAPTER VI.
FIVE YEARS OF FOX-HUNTING.
When MurcIiiBon and his wife found themselves in Eng-
land again, two questions pressed upon them for immediate
solution : Where were they to take up house ? and, What were
they to do ? In spite of Mrs. Murchison's fortune, money
was not so plentiful with them as they wished. The Tarra-
dale tenants, owing to more stringent prohibition of illicit
distillation, found many excuses for evading the payment of
their rents, so that although the young couple could live
comfortably enough in Italy, there seemed some difficulty in
the way of their setting up house at home in the style
to which they had all along been used. The rent of the
property was at this time a little more than £600, but pro-
bably not more than about the half of that sum could be
collected. The long-threatened sale was therefore now
finally resolved upon, and in August 1818, for £27,000,
Baillie of Bochfour became the purchaser. Immediately
after his return from abroad Murchison went north alone
to make the concluding arrangements, and from that time
ceased to be any longer a Highland laird.
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1818.] BECOMES A FOX-HUNTER 89
Having thus got rid of the troublesome tenants in the
north, he had next to find a home somewhere for his wife
and himsel£ Mrs. Murchison's grandfather, a veteran of the
Flanders wars, had passed the last twenty years of his long
life in an old mansion at Barnard Castle, in the county of
Durham. This house, now tenantless, was chosen, and there
Murchison set up his first m^Tiage in England.
The change from the pursuits and sights of Bome and
Naples to the dulness of a little country town in the north
of England could not but prove a sore trial to the lately de-
veloped tastes of the retired Captain. The old General, whose
house they now occupied, had been a favourite in the district,
and for his sake at first, and afterwards for their own, the
new-comers had a hospitable reception from the county- folk
of the neighbourhood. But receiving calls and paying them
was hardly occupation enough for any reasonably active
creature. Art- studies were no longer possible; his wife's
gathering of plants and minerals had not yet sufficed to show
him what a scientific pursuit really was ; there seemed but
one path of escape from insufferable ennui^ and Murchison
chose it He took heart and soul to field-sports, and became
one of the greatest fox-hunters in the north of England.
For five years this desultory life lasted. It seemed as if
the influence of the foreign tour had vanished, and left no
siga At some of the houses of the neighbourhood — Eokeby,
for instance — guests distinguished for culture and literary or
scientific eminence used from time to time to be gathered,
and in these gatherings Murchison and his wife gladly took
part. They only just missed Sir Walter Scott They formed
an intimacy with Sir Humphry Davy, and made the ac-
quaintance of other notabilities. These were pleasant inter-
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90 SIR RODERICK MVRCHISON. [isis-o.
ludes, and helped to vary a little the dulness of Barnard
Castle and the monotony of bunting. But field-sports con-
tinued to be the main business of life, since they furnished
the readiest outlet for that exuberant bodily activity which
had all along formed one of Murchison's special character-
istics.
As a diversion from these more ordinary and engrossing
pursuits, he on one occasion of a contested election for the
county of Durham took an active part on the Tory side,
scouring the country far and wide on horseback for voters,
bringing them up to the poll ; but in the end beating an in-
glorious retreat with the impopular candidate, amid showers
of cabbages, rotten eggs, and other electioneering missiles.
A further variety was found in an occasional excursion to
Scotland, or in visits to sporting Mends in the north of
England.
It was not without concern that Mrs. Murchison marked
this relapse into that purposeless kind of life from which her
husband seemed for a time in a fair way of being weaned.
She had some knowledge of botany, and had induced him in
the course of their walks and excursions to assist her in form-
ing a herbarium. But she could not make him a botanist
While residing in the north of England she took to the study
of mineralogy, and made some progress in collecting and
distinguishing some of the more common minerals found in
that part of the country. Her husband looked on and helped
her where he could ; but neither was mineralogy the kind of
pursuit to enlist his sympathies, and call out his special
powers. "The noble science of fox-hunting," he says of
himseK, ''was then my dominant passion, and as I had
acquired a little reputation in the north as a hard rider, I
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1818-23.] THE FOX-HUNTING FEVER 91
resolved to play the great game^ increase my stud, and settle
for a year or two at Melton Mowbray, in Leicestershire."
Instead of calming down, therefore, the hunting fever
broke out with renewed virulence. The migration south-
wards duly took place, to the great mortification of his wife,
who had reason to dread the effects of the change both upon
his character and his purse. He rented a good house at
Melton Mowbray, kept eight hunters, a horse for his wife,
and a hack, and subscribed £50 a year to a pack of hounds.
* These and other expenses were," he says, " more than enough
for my means. Thus I was led to speculate by investing in
foreign funds, and obtain an income of £2000 per annum,
which, with occasional drafts upon my 'floating capital,'
kept us going."
He paid a visit to the north of Scotland in 1822, and
his arrival in Edinburgh happened to coincide with that of
G^rge IV., whose entrance he witnessed firom the Calton
Hill, noting especially the beaming face and white hair of
Walter Scott as he marched jauntily along in front of the
royal carriage.
Back at Melton, he recommenced the earnest business of
the winter by resuming his place at the hunt, and indulging
in further gaieties.^ The following reminiscences of this
time were written late in life : — " On Sundays, after six days*
hard work, we were necessarily very sleepy, and on one
occasion when the sermon was preached for the Missionary
Society, and the parson went on to describe the life of the
savages to be Christianized — hunting all the week, and lying
^ By way of oompromiBe, apparently, and in compliance with liis wife's
more literary tastee, he kept his elaborate daily hunting journal this
winter (1822-3) in French.
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92 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [wa
exhausted and sleepy in their houses, — all the ladies' eyes
were turned upon their drowsy mates."
'' On one occasion I gave a dinner, and invited Scotch-
men only, viz., Elcho, Graham (now Duke of Montrose),
Grant, Melville, etc.; and as I could find no blacksmith to
singe the head, I performed myself in my own stable-yard,
to the great amusement of the groom and helpers."
"I was the only person who r^ularly smoked at the
covert- side, or when they went away, and the fox was lost
On one of the latter occasions, and when Graham was cast-
ing and re- casting his hounds, and was unable to hit off the
scent, he hollowed out sulkily, ' 'Tis no use trying to do any-
thing when that pipe spoils the scent !* So strong
was the feeling then against smoking as a bad and ungentle-
manlike habit, that when Femley painted a picture which
we, the subscribers to the pack, presented to Graham, I was
at first represented on my brown horse Commodore, turning
my head round, with a cigar in my mouth. The cigar was
afterwards, however, painted out The picture is at Norton
Conyers, in Yorkshire."
Save gossip of this kind, with full notes of his almost
daily hunts, and references to the companions with whom he
rode, smoked, and dined, the visits which he and his wife
occasionally paid, and the people whom they met on such
occasions, no record of these five hunting years has been
preserved.^ There seems, indeed, to have been little else to
chronicle. During the times of hard frost, when the usual
^ One of his journals gives a detailed narrative of every hunt from 3d
November 1S2I to April II, 1822, during which period he was 110 times
with the hounds. In his usual methodical style he has constructed a table
with columns, in which is entered the work done by each of the twelve
hunters which he used.
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1883.] THE FOX-HUNTING FEVER 93
out-of-door occupations were interrupted, he would take once
more to books. On one of these occasions he seems to have
revived for a while his antiquarian tendencies by reading and
making extracts from Blunt's Vestiges of Ancient Manners
and Customs in Italy and Sicily. But the books were ex-
changed for the saddle when the weather suited again.
The letters written during these fox-hunting years to his
brother Kenneth, then in the East Indies, abound with grave
moral sentences on the duty of submission to our lot, and
the necessity for economy and care when our means are
small ! Tet they teem with tender affection, and show their
writer to have had an earnest love for his brother, with the
fullest interest in all that concerned him. The solicitude
with which he appears to have watched over a little niece
confided to his care and that of his wife, and the almost
fiitherly delight with which he recounts all her ways and
her progress, betoken great tenderness of heart, with much
considerate feeling in the way of showing his kindness.
His wife had from the first truly perceived that at bot-
tom there lay in Murchison something more than the char-
acter of a mere Nimrod. It was needful that his overflowing
animal spirits and bodily activity should find adequate outlet,
but she fully believed that when these parts of his nature
had in some measure spent themselves, the higher part of
his character would come to the surface. K he really had
any more intellectual tendencies than were required for fox-
hunting, he must needs in the end get tired of such unremit-
ting application to that pursuit, and then those tendencies
would be sure to claim a hearing from him. And so it
came to pass.
Forty years after the time at which we are now arrived,
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94 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [i823.
Murchison was sojouming for health's sake at the baths of
Marienbad, in Bohemia, and penned there the following
recollections of the events which brought his fox-hunting
life to a close : —
" As time rolled on I got llasi and tired of all fox-
hunting life. In the summer following the hunting season
of 1822-3, when revisiting my old friend Morritt of Eokeby,
I fell in with Sir Humphry Davy, and experienced much
gratification in his lively illustrations of great physical truths.
As we shot partridges together in the morning, I perceived
that a man might pursue philosophy without abandoning
field-sports ; and Davy, seeing that I had already made ob-
servations on the Alps and Apennines, independently of my
antiquarian rambles, encouraged me to come to London and
set to Bit science by attending lectures on chemistry, etc. As
my wife naturally backed up this advice, and Sir Humphry
said he would soon get me into the Boyal Society, I was
fairly and easily booked.
" Before I took the step of making myseK a Cockney I
sold my horses. The two best were put up at auction in
the ensuing autumn, after dinner, at the Old Club at Melton,
and were brought into the room after a jolly dinner, Maxse
acting as auctioneer. In fact I threw them away, and Maker
who bought the ' Commodore,' named him ' Potash,' as a
quiz on me for taking so much of that alkali after our
potations."
The decision to sell his hunters and renounce the ex-
pensive life at Melton was probably dictated more by a
prudent regard to ways and means than by any special
charms yet visible in the prospect of a life of scientific exer-
tion. At all events we find, that when the Melton establish-
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iffli] SELLS HIS HUNTERS. 95
ment was broken up he did not immediately set up another,
but went to reside for a time with his father-in-law. The
winter of 1823-4 was passed chiefly at Nursted House, and
seems to have slipt away without much indication that he
had resolved to change his main pursuita Were not the
Hambledon hounds at hand, with old Parson Bichards at
their head, and Wyndham's drove pack careering in close
column up the steep faces of the downs ? Did not Up Park
offer attractions in its pheasant covers such as few other pre-
serves in England could show? Keed we wonder, then,
that the necessity for a new horse became only too apparent !
It was but alow-priced hack-hunter this time, yet a service-
able animal, which carried its rider to probably as many
meets as took place that winter within access of Nursted.
And not that winter only, but the summer following, went
past without apparently any further action in the way of
carrying out the projected scientific programma We find
the retired sportsman sojourning for a long time in the south
of Scotland during that summer, visiting Mends, shooting,
and in short living as much after the old fashion as if he had
never seen Davy at Eokeby, and no visions of chemistry
lectures had ever floated before him.
But the momentous epoch of his life was now fast ap-
proaching. This summer of 1824 saw the last of his rambles
wherein the rocks aroimd him made no direct and urgent
appeal to him. Henceforth he was to have an occupation
even more absorbing than any which had yet held him in
thraU, and into this new employment he was to carry all
the energy which had hitherto marked his doings in other
pursuits.
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CHAPTEE Vll.
KISE OF GEOLOGY IN BBITAIN.
At last Murchlson had found a calling wherein his love
of out-of-door life, and his inclination towards an intellec-
tual employment of some sort, could find fitting scopa From
this time forward it was to be his good fortune to have one
engrossing occupation, which, while furnishing abimdant
exercise and amusement, should ere long enable him to
make his name a kind of household word among geologists
in every part of the world.
How it came about that a man with no previous scientific
training should have been able to gain such a reputation,
and gain it so rapidly, deserves our consideration. We
might conjecture either that the science could have been no
very recondite matter, or that the man must have been pos-
sessed of very extraordinary powers. Neither supposition
would be quite just Such was the state of geological science
at the time, that a great work could be done by a man with
a quick eye, a good judgment, a clear notion of what had
already been accomplished, and a stout pair of 1^.
It is of importance that the reader should see how this
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HUTTONIAN AND WERNERIAN WARFARE. 97
came to be the case, in order that he may adequately realize
what Murchison's life-work actually was. I would ask him,
therefore, to accompany me in a necessarily brief survey of
the condition of geology in this coimtry during the first
quarter of this century, with a glance at some of the
more salient characteristics of the leading geologists among
whom the retired captain and fox-hunter was now to take
his place. We shall in this way be enabled to follow more
definitely the kind of work which lay open to his hand, and
to note what incentives and obstacles surroimded him on his
entry upon this new career.
Looking back to the beginning of this century, we see
the geologists of Britain divided into two hostile camps, who
waged against each other a keen and even an embittered
warfare. On the one hand were the followers of Hutton
of Edinburgh, called from him Huttonians, sometimes also
Yulcanists or Plutonists; on the other, the disciples of
Werner of Freiberg, in Saxony, who went by the name of
Wemerians, or Neptunists. The strife lasted almost up to
Murchison's time, though it had in its last years waxed
faint and fitfuL But many of the combatants who had been
in the thick of the fight were still alive when he assumed
the title of geologist, and the current of geological thought
at that time had been largely influenced by the contest
The Huttonians, who adhered to the principles laid down
by their great founder, maintained, as their fundamental
doctrine, that the past history of our planet is to be ex-
plained by what we can learn of the economy of nature at
the present tima Unlike the cosmogonists, they did not
trouble themselves with what was the first condition of the
earth, nor tiy to trace every subsequent phase of its history.
VOL.L G
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98 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N.
They held that the geological record does not go back to the
beginniiig, and that therefore any attempt to trace that be-
ginning &om geological evidence was vain. Most strongly,
too, did they protest against the introduction of causes which
could not be shown to be a part of the present economy.
They never wearied of insisting, that to the every-day work-
ings of Air, Earth, and Sea must be our appeal for an expla-
nation of the older revolutions of the globe. The fall of rain^
the flow of rivers, the dash of waves, the slowly-crumbling
decay of mountain, valley, and shore, were one by one sum-
moned as witnesses to bear testimony to the manner in
which the most stupendous geological changes are slowly
and silently brought about The waste of the land, which
they traced everywhere, was found to give birth to soil —
renovation of the surface thus springing Phoenix-like out of
its decay. In the descent of water from the clouds to the
mountains, and from the mountains to the sea^ they recog-
nised the power by which vaUeys are carved out of the
land, and by which also the materials worn from the land
are carried out to the sea^ there to be gathered into solid
stone — ^the framework of new continents. In the rocks of
the hills and valleys they recognised abimdantly the traces
of old sea-bottoms. They stoutly msdntained that these old
sea-bottoms had been raised up into dry land from time to
time by the powerM action of the same internal heat to
which volcanoes owe their birth, and they pointed to the
way in which granite and other crystalline rocks occur as
convincing evidence of the extent to which the solid earth
had been altered and upheaved by the action of these sub-
terranean fires.
That a theory in many respects so bold and original, and
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Vi)L I. To face page 98.
.JAMB8 IIUTTON. M.D.
From an Original Portrait by Sir lUni-y Ratburn, in the possession of
Sir (itonje Warrendtr, Hart.
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Digitized by VjOOQIC
HUTTONIAN AND WEKNERIAN WARFARE. 99
embracing so wide a view of the whole field of inoiganic
nature, should be imperfect ; that the full meaning of parts of
it should not even have been suspected by its founder ; that
some of its details should have been built upon erroneous ob-
servations or deductions, may be readily believed. The most
obvious imperfection about the theory was, that it took no
account of the fossil remains of plants and animals. Hence it
ignored the long succession of life upon the earth, which those
remains have since made known, as weU as the evidence
thereby obtainable as to the nature and order of physical
changes, such as alternations of land and sea, revolutions of
climate, and such-like. But though the discovery of these
profoundly significant truths opened up a world of research
of which neither Hutton nor his firiends had ever dreamed,
it did not overturn what he had done. He had laid down
principles which, in so far as they went, were true, and
which the experience of successive generations has amply
illustrated and confirmed. He had traced a bold outline
which has been gradually filled in, but his master lines are
traceable stilL The whole of modem geology bears witness
to the influence of the Huttonian school
It was while views of this broad and suggestive nature
were making way in this country, that others of a very differ-
ent stamp came over fix)m Germany. Werner at that time
was teaching mineralogy at Freibeig, but he aspired to con-
nect his science with a wide subject^ and from the study of
minerals to rise to the origin of the globe itsel£ He had
not travelled. He had seen only a small comer of Europe,
and having satisfied himself of the order and history of the
rocks in that limited district^ he proceeded to account for
the formation of the various rocks of the rest of the globe
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100 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON.
on the model of his own little kingdom. Instead of starting
from what can be seen and known as to nature's operations
at the present time, Werner, like other cosmogonists, con-
ceived .himself bound to begin at the beginning. He sup-
posed that the earth had been originally covered with the
ocean, in which the materials of the minerals were dissolved.
Out of this ocean he conceived that the various rocks were
precipitated in the same order in which he found those of
Saxony to lie ; hence, on the retirement of the ocean, certain
universal formations spread over all the globe, and assumed
at the surface various irr^ular shapes as they consolidated.
Werner was a good mineralogist, and, as he classed rocks
by their miieral characters, there was a certain neatness
and precision about his system, and a facility of applying it
in other countries, such as no previous cosmological theory
could boast. Moreover, as men were mineralogists before
geology came into existence, and as the general mineralogical
bias still prevailed, the doctrines of Werner, so largely based
on mineralogical considerations, had a great advantage in
the readiness with which they might be expected to be
adopted But, besides this, although his views about uni-
versal formations and the aqueous origin of all rocks — even
of basalt — were quite erroneous, he had grasped part of a
great truth in his chronological grouping of strata. He
had likewise noticed, as indeed had been already to some
extent recognised by observers both in France and Germany,
that the remains of plants and animals imbedded in the
stokta became fewer in number, and more imlike living
forms, the older the rocks in which they occur. Even,
therefore, had he not been so full of zeal and eloquence as
to inspire his pupils with enthusiasm, his views would pro-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
PROFESSOR JAMESON. 101
bably have made a way for themselves in Europe. But his
ardour kindled a like spirit in those who came to listen to
him. They returned to their own homes eager to apply,
even in the most distant comers of the globe, the system
which had been made so dear to them at Freiberg. They
had at heart not only the cause of truth, but the fame of an
eloquent teacher and Mend, so that their course, at least in
this country, became a kind of propagandism.
It is hardly possible now to realize how fierce and per-
sonal was the Huttonian and Wemerian war. Hutton him-
self had lived and died in Edinburgh. The crags and ravines
of that romantic town had inspired him with some of his
views, and, after he had gone, these features remained as
memorials of his teaching, to friends who loved and followers
who revered him. Edinburgh was naturally therefore the
home of the Huttonian theory. It so happened, however, that
in the year 1804 the Professorship of Natural History was
given to Bobert Jameson, — a student fix)m Freiberg, full of
the true Wemerian ardour. He was not long in office before
he began to gather round him a band of disciples ; and thus
Edinburgh became a chief focus of the geological war.^
Amid the turmoil of the contest one figure still stands
out prominently, calm and gentle, full of the courtesy of the
days of chivalry, fighting not for self nor for fame, but
generously setting lance in rest for the cause of tmth, and
on behalf of a revered teacher and friend — ^formidable in
the lists withal, well skilled in defence, and with keen eye
and ready hand to mark the weak points in his adversary's
^ Among recently published reminisoences of this time, reference may
be made to Sir Henry Ho]land*8 interesting allusions to the fierceness of
the contest in Edinburgh. — See his RecoUtcticn$ qf Pati L\f€, p. 81.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
102 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON.
armour. Such was the illustaious Playfair — a man to whom
geologists owe a debt of gratitude which has perhaps never
yet been adequately paid. Hutton had passed away, his
work imfinished, and the style of his writings so obscure as
to set a bander to the general diffusion which their genius
merited. Playfjedr, who was his warm personal friend, de-
termined to prevent the risk of such doctrines as those of
Hutton sinking into neglect, and to that end composed,
and, in the spring of 1S02, published his lUustrcUums of the
Huttonian Theory.
This great work may be taken as the text-book of the
Huttonian school It contains not only the views taught
by Hutton himself, but the expansion and application of
them by Playfair. Gifted with an eloquence which, for
dignity, precision, and elegance, reminds us of some of the
best old French models, and which has certainly never since
been equalled in the geological literature of this country,
Playfair not only gained for the doctrines of his master a
publicity and measure of acceptance which they might not
otherwise have attained, but he raised geology out of the
region of mere wild speculation, and placed it in an honour-
able position among the inductive sciencea The real rise of
geology in this country into the dignity of a science, is
traceable mainly to the influence of the Illtigtrations of the
Huttonian Theory}
But in the earlier years of the century this was not re-
^ Thii WM acknowledged siz-and-twentj years after the lUugtraHons
had appeared, and when their author had gone oyer to the majority. A
warm and graceful tribute to his influence, with a frank recognition of
the obligations of geologists to his labours in their service, was then given
by Dr. Fitton in his Presidential Address to the Qedogical Society of
London.— /Voc OeoL 8oc L 56 (15th February 1828).
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FOUNDATION OF GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY. 103
oognised. The very principles of geology were still matter
of discossion. These would doubtless have been sooner
settled but for the baneful influence of Wemerianism, and
the check given by that system to the development of the
views of Button and Playfair. Still it must in fairness be
acknowledged, that Wemerianism introduced a more precise
mineralogy and petrography than had ever been known be-
fore, and that though this was at the best but a poor sub-
stitute for the earlier growth of sound geology, it was an
advantage, the loss of which, when it died out with that
system, has in one not unimportant branch crippled British
geology ever since.
In the midst of this ferment of conflicting theories, a few
men interested in inquiries as to the nature and origin of
minerals and rocks, drew together in London in the year
1S07, and formed themselves into the Geological Society.
A further reference to this important event will be made in
the next Chapter, when we come to the time when Murchison
joined the Society. In the meantime we may note that the
aim of the founders was to gather facts as to the composition
and structure of the earth without reference to questions of
theory. With this view they met at short intervals to read
papers on the rocks or minerals of particular species, or of
special districts, and every few years gathered the more im-
portant of these papers into a large quarto volume of Trans-
actions. During the early days of its existence the Society
devoted itself with praiseworthy diligence to questions of
mineralogy, or of the geological structure of different loca-
lities. The members hardly ever meddled with the remains
of the plants and animals imbedded in the rocks. That these
remains had a deep meaning, that they were to famish the
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104 SIR RODMICK MURCHiaON.
key which would make it easy to group the rocks of Eng-
land in their order of formation, and that they contained the
records of a marvellous march of life upon the earth, had not
yet dawned upon the minds of any of these early pioneers.
While the acknowledged leaders of the infant science of
geology were on the one hand wrangling as to the principles
to be adopted, and, on the other hand, busjdng themselves
with the collection and discussion of details of no great
moment, a man had been quietly and unobserved at work
for long years among the rocks of England, and had learned
their secret as none else had done. Bom in Oxfordshire,
William Smith had been used in childhood to collect and
wonder over the fossils so abundant round his birthplace.
In later years, trained to the profession of civil engineer
and land-surveyor, he had recognised his early playthings in
far distant parts of the country. Step by step he was led to
perceive, in a far more precise and accurate way than had
been thought of by Werner or any previous observer, that
each group of strata had its own characteristic fossils. By
this test he could recognise a series of rocks aU the way from
the coasts of Dorset to those of Yorkshire. He surprised
some of his friends who had made collections of fossils
by telling them from what special set of rocks each series
of shells had been obtained. He constructed, and as far
back as 1799 began to publish, geological maps of various
parts of England, on which the different groups of rocks
which he had made up were delineated with singular accu-
racy. At agricultural meetings, and to any inquirer who
wished to see them, he exhibited these maps, showing more
particularly their value in questions of farming and water-
supply. He had tried to find patrons, with whose help he
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DISCOVERIES OF WILLIAM SMITH. 105
might publish a general work, and even issued prospectuses
of his proposal, but failed to succeed, until at last, in the
year 1815, he gave to the world his " Map of the Strata of
England and Wales.** But long before the appearance of this
map, and of the other works which he issued in succession,
his ideas had spread widely through the country. Hence
when these marvellous productions were published, they met
with immediate acceptance. They completely revolutionized
the geology of the day, and called forth &om his contem-
poraries the most unqualified praise, and the weU-merited
title of the Father of English Geology. It was now possible
to arrange the rocks of the country in definite chronological
order, to compare those of one district with those of another,
to trace the connexion of the varying character of the strata
underneath with the change of soils and the rise of springs.
But, above all, William Smith's discoveries led the way to
all that has since been done in tracing back the history of
Life into the dim past. He was not himself a naturalist,
but he laid that sure foundation on which our knowledge is
built of the grand succession of living beings upon the
surface of our planet
From the prodigious impetus given by these revelations
Geology made a new start in England, and branched out
especially in two directions, which have continued up to the
present time to be the paths chiefly followed by geologists in
this country. In the first place, what is called Stratigraphical
geology, that is, the accurate grouping of the rocks according
to their order of formation, took its rise ftom the work of
William Smith. Before his day no means existed of making
any such subdivision beyond the vague general distinctions
implied in such terms as Primary, Transition, and Secondary.
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106 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N,
In the second place, fix)m the attention now given to fossils
as a key to the discrimination of rocks, the science of Palaeon-
tology, or the study of ancient forms of life, first took root
in England. It is true that the researches of Gnvier among
the extinct mammals of the Paris basin, and his clear and
eloquent writings, as well as the labours of Brongniart, had
drawn the eyes of the world to the interest attaching to
fossil remains. These discoveries undoubtedly laid the foun-
dations of Palaeontology. They were not made, however,
until after Smith's views, unpublished indeed, but freely
communicated, had begun to spread in this country, and
imtil consequently the minds of geologists were in some
d^ree prepared for them by learning that a new meaning
and value had begun to be discernible in the remains of the
plants and animals imbedded in the rocks.
At the same time that this new development of geological
inquiry took place, certain other changes came about in
England. Foremost among these was the decay of Minera-
logy and Petrography, or Mineralogical geology. Men found
such a great untrodden field opening out before them, that
they forsook the old and weU-beaten paths of mineralogy.
N^Iecting the study of minerals, they left off also that of
the mineralogical composition of rocks. For somewhere
about half a century these branches of geology remained
scarcely cidtivated at all in this coimtry, and only within
the last few years have some of our geologists wakened up
to the fact, that in this department of their science they
have been far outstripped by their brethren of the hammer
in Germany and in France.
So strongly did the tide now set in towards stratigraphical
and palseontological pursuits, that another not less important
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SIR JAMES HALL AND HIS WORK. 107
branch of geological research, which had been begun with
much promise, fell into neglect — the application of physical
experiment to the elucidation of geological problems. The
merit of having started this line of investigation belongs to
the Huttonian school Among Button's Mends and ad-
mirers was Sir James Hall of Dunglass — a man of singular
shrewdness, with a strong bent towards putting things to
the test of experiment, and an inventive faculty of no com-
mon order. He had urged Hutton to apply this test to
some of his views which had been most keenly controverted.
That philosopher, however, had a deep conviction that as
we could never hope to imitate the scale of nature's opera-
tions, so we might run a great risk of having false impres-
sions given to our minds by such experiments. He seems
to have had a kind of contempt for those who "judge of the
great operations of the mineral kingdom from having kindled
a fire and looked into the bottom of a little crucible." ^
Hall, though, fix)m deference to his master, he generously
refrained from putting his ideas into practice during the
lifetime of the latter, felt sure that some parts of the Hut-
tonian Theory could be proved or disproved by simple ex-
periments.' After Hutton's death a series of trials, memor-
able as the birth of Experimental Geology, proved the truth
of his surmise, adding, at the same time, to the stability
of Hutton's views and the fame of the Scottish School of
(Jeology. During the first quarter of this century he pub-
lished at intervals a series of admirable papers in the Trans-
actions of the Eoyal Society of Edinburgh on such questions
as the igneous origin of basalt-rocks, the formation of marble
' Thwry of the Earth, voL L p. 251.
* Tvansa^ums qfthe Royal Society, Edinburgh, vol vi p. 76.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
108 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON.
and crystalline limestone, the contortion of the earth's crust,
etc. But the vitality of the geological school in that capital
was gone. No one followed up the path opened by Hall,
and men were too busy elsewhere in making out the order
of the rocks and the succession of the fossils to have time
or inclination for theoretical questions
Another change of import in the history of the time
succeeding the publications of William Smith, was the
gradual decline and extinction of Wemerianism. Even at
its stronghold in Edinburgh it had been waning. Two
months after the founding of the Geological Society of
London, Jameson had started the Wemerian Society in
Edinburgh — a Society which continued for many years, in
spite of its name, to do much excellent work in various
departments of natural history. Its founder had come to
be regarded as the avowed leader of the Wemerians of this
country. He had one great advantage over his opponents.
Accurate mineralogical knowledge enabled him to discri-
minate rocks with a precision to which they could make no
pretension, and although this was an accomplishment of
little real moment in the theoretical questions chiefly in
dispute, he did not fail to make the most of it, nor they to
betray their consciousness of their inferiority in that respect
In the end, however, Jcuneson and his band of co-believers
in Werner came to be gradually isolated on the rocks of
Edinburgh with an ever-rising flood of the dominant geology
around them. There they stood, battling as well as they
might with the inevitable, until at last Jameson frankly
acknowledged, at one of the evening discussions of the Boyal
Society, that Wemerianism was doomed and deserved to die.^
1 This inoidenty of Jameson's confession, was told to tlie writer by Sir
Digitized by VjOOQIC
-I ■ m^m^ ^^m
Vol. I. To fuce jmge la^.
PROFESSOR ROBERT JAMESON.
Frviii a Miniaturt in Hit jwssaaion of Dr. Claiul Muirhtml, Edinburgh.
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Digitized by VjOOQIC
VOLCANIC OEOLOOY. 109
It bad been one of tbe cbaracteristics of Werner's system
to ignore, or at least to n^lect, volcanoes and volcanic action.
Tbere were no volcanoes in tbat little kingdom wbicb be
bad taken as tbe model of tbe globe. Tbe neglect was par-
donable perbaps in bis case, but wben bis votaries in travel-
ling over tbe world met face to face witb only too manifest
proofs of tbe vitality of tbe internal beat of tbe eartb, tbey
bad recourse to every possible explanation — tbe combustion
of subterranean beds of coal, or indeed any supposition tbat
would depreciate tbe importance of volcanoes as parts of tbe
general economy of tbe world Tbey almost seemed to
r^ard volcanoes witb dislike as anomalous interferences witb
tbe normal constitution of tbings. Tbey denied tbe igneous
origin of sucb rocks as basalt^ even thougb tbeir opponents
proved tbat rocks of precisely similar cbaracter bad often
been seen flowing in a melted state down tbe sides of volcanoes.
Excellent service bad been done in exposing tbe absurdity of
these notions by Desmarest, Montlosier, Faujas St Fond,
and otber geologists on tbe Continent, and in tbis country
by MaccuUocb, Bou^, and otbers, but by none more signally
tban by Mr. Poulett Scrope in bis admirable memoirs on tbe
volcanic districts of Naples and Central France, and bis
work on Volcanoes.^ Tbougb tbe Britisb Islands abound in
Robert ChriBtisoD, and by Professor Balfonr, who were present at the
Royal Society of Edinbmgh when it took place. It has not been possible
to recover the date of the meeting.
^ Mr. Scrope, to whose cordial friendship it is a pleasore to record my
obligations, has famished me with the foUowing reminisoenoe of this early
geological controversy : — " I well recollect, on a discnasion arising at the
Geological Society meeting, after the reading of a paper of mine on the
Anvergne volcanoes, Greenongh's argoing that the cinder-cones might be
volcanic, bnt that the plateaux of basalt that adjoined them were cer-
tainly precipitations from the archaic ocean of Werner. In my reply
I got the laugh in my favour by putting to him whether, if he found
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no SIR RODERICK MURCHISON.
old volcanic rocks of many ages, even the stimulus of the
success of these observers was not enough to divert a few
able observers from the general drift of English geology
into the channels already indicated. Another generation
had to arise before the volcanic history of Britain began to
attract serious notice.
But of the changes which followed the rise and rapid
development of stratigraphical geology and palaeontology in
England^ perhaps the most r^rettable was the neglect of
what is now termed Physiographical Geology — that is, the
study of the origin of the present external features of the
land. Button and Playfair were full of this subject They
refused to admit of hypothetical revolutions, but steadfastly
insisted on explaining the changes of the past by the same
kinds of action which may still be seen at work. Never-
theless, though they directed attention so forcibly to the
every-day changes of the earth's surface, their teaching did
not displace the more sensational hypotheses of catastrophe
and convulsion. It was reserved for a foreign scientific
Society to recall the thoughts of men to the revolutions
which the land had undergone within the time of human
chronicles, and for the illustrious Yon Hoff to gather the
historical evidence of these revolutions^ — a task which has
since been so worthily followed up and extended by LyelL
some morning on entering his libraiy (bo well known to geologists
through his hospitalities) a stream of ink flooding the carpet, with a
broken bottle at one end of it, he would be satisfied with the explana-
tion of his housemaid that sho had broken the bottle, but was wholly
innocent of spilling the ink, which must have been done in some other
way and at some other time. Greenough lived and, I belieye, died a
consistent Wemerian, and many a contest I had with him in 1823-6 on
the identical character of basalt and lava.**
1 Qeschichte der durch Ueberlieferung naohgewiesenen natttrlichen
VeriinderuDgen der Erdoberflttche— ein Versnch yon K. E. A. von Hoff.
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ORIGIN OF VALLEYS AND HILLS HI
While dwelling on ordinary and familiar agents of change,
the Scottish philosophers found in these the explanation of
the origin of much of the scenery of the land. They delighted
to trace the origin of valleys, the sculpturing of mountains,
and the gradual evolution of the various features of a land-
scape. They attributed these irr^ularities of surface to the
action of rain and streams upou masses of land upheaved above
the sea ; — an idea which was deemed too bold even by many
of their boldest followers, such as Hall, and which fell into
comparative oblivion. It was noticed in text-books and
treatises only to be dismissed as extravagant In its place the
notion prevailed that to subterranean action we must mainly
attribute the present inequalities of the land — a notion which
has been prevalent untU within the last few years, when tlie
rising generation of geologists has b^un to recognise the true
meaning and place of the Huttonian doctrine. We shall find
that Sir Boderick Murchison up to the dose of his life battled
for the supremacy of the underground forces in the modelling
of the surfetce of the land. And yet he had read the lucid
observations and arguments of Mr. Poulett Scrope, written
so far back as 1822, to prove how valleys in central France
had been cut out by running water ; — ^nay, as we shall see,
one of his earliest geological tours abroad was to this very
region, where he became convinced of the truth of A^r.
Scrope's views, though the conversion proved to be only a
transient one.
In fine, the first quarter of the present century was a time
of marvellous vigour in the history of geology. It was during
This work was begun as a prise-essay wriUen in respoDse to an inviiati<m
from the Royal Society of Soienoes at Qi^ttingen. The first Tolome was
puUishedin 1S22,
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112 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON.
that time that the science took shape and dignity. Amid
the conflict of opposing schools progress had been steady
and rapid. Every year broaxlened the base on which the
infant science was being built up. The rocks of England
and Wales were curranged in their order of age, the outlines
traced by Smith having been more and more filled in. Ex-
cellent service had been done by the admirable handbook of
Conybeare and Phillips, while Bou^, Jameson, MaccuUoch,
and others, had made known the rocks of large tracts of
Scotland. But a vast deal remained to be accomplished.
The field was still in a sense newly discovered, it stretched
over a wide area, and lay open to any one who with active
feet, good eyes, and shrewd head chose to enter it. And
the enthusiasm of those who were already at work within
its borders sufl&ced not only to inspirit their own labours,
but to attract and stimulate other fellow-workers from the
outer world.
From the foregoing rapid survey of the progress of geology
during the first quarter of this century we can see the pro-
bable line of inquiry which any young Englishman would
then be likely to take who entered upon the pursuit of the
science without being gradually led up to it by previous and
special studies. In the first place, he would almost certainly
be a Huttonian, though doubtless holding some of Hutton's
views with a difference. He would hardly be likely to show
much sympathy with the fading dogmas of the Wemerians.
In the second place, he would 'probably depart widely
from one aspect of the original Huttonian school in avoiding
theoretical questions, and sticking, possibly with even too
great pertinacity, to the observation and accumulation of
facts.
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OPENING OF ma GEOLOGICAL CAREER. 113
In the third place, he would most likely have no taste
for experimental research as elucidating geological questions,
and might set little store by the contributions made by
physicists to the solution of problems in his science.
In the fourth place, he would almost certainly be igno-
rant of mineralogy, and whenever his work lay among
crjrstalline rocks it would be sure to bear witness to this
ignorance.
In the fifth place, devoting himself to what lies beneath
the surface as the true end and aim of geology, he would be
apt to neglect the study of the external features of the
land. And this neglect might lead him in the end to form
most erroneous views as to the origin of these features.
Lastly, his main geological idea would probably be to
make out the order of succession among the rocks of his own
country, to collect their fossils, unravel their complicated
structure, and gather materials for comparing them with the
rocks of other countries. In a word, he would in all likeli-
hood drift with the prevailing current of geological inquiry
at the time, and become a stratigraphical geologist
There was no reason in Murchison's case why these
influences of the day should not mould the whole character
of his scientific life. We shall trace in the records of later
years how thoroughly they did so. As he started, so he
continued up to the end, manifesting throughout his career
the permanent sway of the circumstances under which he
broke ground as a geologist
At first the novelty and fascination of the pursuit engaged
his attention. Many a time on his walking and hunting
expeditions he had noticed marine shells far inland. He
now found out that such shells formed, as it were, the
VOL.L H
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lU SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N.
alphabet of a new language, and that by their means he
might decipher for himself the histoiy of the rocks with
whose external forms he was so familiar. He threw himself
into the study with all his usual ardour, and ere long
became as enthusiastic with his hammer over down and
shore as he had been with his pencil and note-book among
the galleries of Italy, or with his hunting-whip or his gun
across the moors of Durham.
Of the men on whom the progress of geology mainly
depended at the time when Murchison joined them to
become their life-long associate and Mend, something should
be said here. Some of the band of enthusiasts by whom the
Greological Society of London was originated still lived, and
took an active share in the Society's work. Among them
were Greenough, the true fotmder and first president of the
Society — amiable, yet shy, and somewhat hesitating in
manner, full of all kinds of miscellaneous knowledge, obsti-
nately sceptical of new opinions, a kind of staunch geolo-
gical Tory, and playing the part of objector-general at the
evening discussions ; and Babington, a kindly, bland, and
courteous veteran, who, well versed in the mineralogy of his
time, had gathered at his house the few like-minded Mends
from whom the Geological Society sprang, who introduced the
practice of discussing the papers read at the meetings, and
who even when nearly fourscore years of age found a con-
genial occupation in the Society's museiun. Other names
which had long been associated with the progress of the
Society still had an honoured place on its list. Such were
those of Wollaston — admirable mineralogist^ sternly upright
in his search for truth, quiet, reserved, serious, looking like a
Greek sage, and deservedly regarded as a general arbiter in
the scientific world of London, yet, to those who were privi-
I
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k
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Vol. 1. 'Jofncfpngr 11. 1
RKV. WILUAM D. CONYBEARE. F R R.
hiom a Pho(o,j,oi>h iu flic itosgcsition of his Fomihf.
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FOUNDERS OF ENGLISH OEOLOGT. 115
leged with his more intimate friendship, fond of a joke and
of a quiet comer in a pheasant cover, where his gun seldom
failed to tell ; Warburton— cautious and uncommunicative ;
Fitton — ^friendly and painstaking, an active leader in the
affairs of the Society, but somewhat hasty in temper, and
prone to what some of his colleagues thought /'red-tape"
formality, yet an admirable observer in the field, a most
gifted debater, and one whose clear and el^ant pen did good
service to the infant science in popular journals, and whose
house formed a pleasant centre for the geologists of town ;
Conybeare — clear-headed, critical, full of quaint humour and
wit ; Buckland — cheery, humorous, bustling, fall of eloquence,
with which he too blended much true wit^ seldom without his
famous blue bag, whence, even at fashionable evening parties,
he would bring out and describe with infinite droUery, amid
the surprise and laughter of his audience, the last " find" from
a bone-cave; Leonard Hornet — ^mild, unpretending, and defer-
ential, yet shrewd and systematic, a valuable member of the
council of management of the Society ; Sedgwick — ^with his
well-remembered hard-featured yet noble face, and eyes like
an eagle's, manly alike in body and mind, full of enthusiasm,
ready and graphic in talk, generous and sympathetic, often
depressed by a constitutional tendency to hypochondria,' yet,
when in fall vigour of health, shrinking firom no toil, either
at home or abroad, in furtherance of his chosen branch of
science, and laying up year by year a store of facts and of
brilliant deductions firom them, which have given him one
of the most honoured places in the literature of geology.
Later in advent than these magnates, or less prominent at
the time with which we are now dealing, and therefore more
of the standing of Murchison himself, came Lyell (now a house-
hold name all over the world), even then noted among his
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116 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON.
fellows for those qualities the farther development of which
has been of such value to the spread of sound geology, and
specially for his earnest pursuit of infoimation on every sub-
ject which could throw any light upon the problems of the
science ; Henry De la Beche, then a handsome and fieishion-
able young man, just beginning to show that quick and
shrewd observation of nature, and rare power of philosophical
induction which eventually gave him so honourable a rank
in British geology ; Dr. Edward Turner — young, open, tm-
assuming, but eager in quest of knowledge, and one of the
first chemists to recognise the necessity of linking chennstiy
closely with mathematics; G. Poulett Scrope — ^full of
geological zeal, which led him through the chief vol-
canic districts of Europe, and stimulated him to produce
an early series of writings which the avocations of a subse-
quent political life have left all too few ; W. J. Broderip—
active and methodical, full of varied natural-history know-
ledge, brimming with joke, yet taking a keen interest in the
affidrs of the Society, and keeping them in order, not with the
severe rigour of Dr. Fitton, but with an easy good-humoured
precision which pleased everybody and did the Society and
its members most excellent service.
Many other names of not less note should receive more
than passing mention here among Murchison's early scientific
contemporaries. Such were Whewell, Herschel, C. Stokes,
Babbage, Webster, Lonsdale, Sir Philip Egerton, the Earl of
Enniskillen (then Viscount Cole), and others, most of whom
have passed away. Some of these men became intimate
personal friends of the subject of this biography, and their
names will therefore appear frequently in the subsequent
chapters.
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CHAPTER VIIL
FIBST TEABS OF SCDSNTIFIC UFB AT HOME.
Wb letum to Muicliison's career. He had now fairly
resolved to cast in his lot with the men of science. Bringing
his wife with him from Nursted, he came up to London, and
rented the house No. 1 Montague Place, Montague Square.
There, settling down to a much more serious employment
than any he had yet undertaken, he entered upon his new
life full of ardour and hope.
" If in the last years of my fox-hunting," he says, " I
began to sniff up a little scientific knowledge, and showed a
willingness to turn my former rambles among the Alps and
Apennines to some profit, it was only in the winter of 1824
that I buckled resolutely to the study of chemistry and the
cognate subjects by attending Brande's early morning lectures
at the Boyal Institution. This I did by the advice of Sir H.
Davy as a necessary preliminary. From this moment, all
horses except a pair for my wife's carriage being dismissed,
I got quite into another and to me an entirely new phase
of society. My notebooks chiefly refer, however, to the
geological lectures, and before the spring came I became
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118 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [laa*.
acquainted, through books and lectures, with the chief phe-
nomena of British geology. Though chemistry never had
strong attractions for me, I kept regular notes of the lectures
on its various branches, and, at the end of my course, knew
as much about that science as was necessary for a field-
geologist."^
In later years he used to recall with no little pleasure an
incident in that course of lectures. One day Dr. Brande did
not lecture, and his place was taken by his assistant — a
pale thin lad, who began with some timidity, but gathering
courage as he went on, soon proved himself to be an ad-
mirable lecturer, and received from his delighted audience a
hearty round of applause. It was Michael Faraday.'
From the Boyal Institution lectures the transition was
easy to the papers and debates to be heard in those little
rooms in Bedford Street, Covent Garden, where the Geological
Society then held its meetings. We have in the preceding
chapter noticed the place which the creation of this Society
fills in the history of geological science in this country.
Some further details of a more personal kind may here be
given, partly because the men who started the Society were
in great measure still living and active members of it when
Murchison joined them, partly because Murchison's own
scientific career was clofi^ly bound up with the subsequent
history of the Society, and partly because the work done by
^ These notes, which stiU exist, show a vast deal of dOigenoe, and a
▼ery fair amount of knowledge. They seem to have been oarefnlly
written out from day to day, and with equal fulness, whether the subject
of the lectures was the composition of beef or the properties of oxygen.
s In telling this story to the writer only a few months before his death,
Murchison said it was Faraday's first lecture. A comparison of dates,
however, shows that his memory had been at fault, for Faraday had
already gained a reputation as experimenter and original investigator
before this time.
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iw.] THE GEOLOGICAL 80CIETT. 119
the Society, and its influence upon the progress of the
science, have been so great that they claim grateful recog-
nition, and deserve adequate record in any work which pro-
fesses to sketch, even in outline, the growth of a portion of
British geology.
At the beginning of this century original research in
natural science was promoted in London by two Societies,
the Boyal and the linnean. Next in order of time came
the Geological Society, which took its origin, as already
mentioned, in 1807, and under the following circum-
stances :* —
** Count de Boumon had written an elaborate monograph
on carbonate of lime, and, in order to raise funds for its pub-
lication. Dr. Babington invited to his house a number of
gentlemen distinguished for their zeal in mineralogical
knowledge, when a subscription-list was opened, and the
necessary sum was collected. Other meetings of the same
gentlemen took place for friendly intercourse, and it was
then proposed to form a Geological Society. On Novem-
ber 13, 1807, a meeting was held at the Freemasons' Tavern,
Great Queen Street, at which resolutions were passed formally
constituting the Society. Only eleven gentlemen were pre-
sent, and their names deserve to be recorded. They were
Arthur Aikin, William Allen, r.RS., William Babington,
MJD., r.RS., Count Boumon, r.RS., H. Davy, SecRS.;
J. Franck, M.D., G. Bellas Greenough, M.P., F.RS., R
^ This namtive is taken from an aooonnt of the Society written by one
of its FeUows, Mr. W. S. Mitchell, jost ifferioos to its recent change of
qoarters to BnrUngton House, and published in The Hour of November
5th, 1873. It is the only narrative which has been published of the early
struggles of the Society. Compiled from the minut»-books of the Society,
it presents a reliable account of events which must always have an interest
for Knglish geologists.
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120 SIB RODERICK MURCHISON.
Knight, J. Laird, M.D., J. Paxkinson, Bichaid Phillips. Two
other supporters of the scheme, W. H. Pepys and William
Phillips, were unavoidably prevented firom attending the
meeting, but their names were added to the list The thir^
teen names were read out, and these gentlemen constituted
themselves the first members of the Geological Society, with
the resolution, — * That there be forthwith instituted a Geo-
logical Society for the purpose of making geologists acquainted
with each other, of stimulating their zeal, of inducing them
to adopt one nomenclature, of facilitating the communication
of new facts, and of ascertaining what is known in their
science, and what remains to be discovered.'
'' The customs of the new association were such that it
would now be called a Club rather than a Society. The
members were to meet on the first Friday of every month at
five o'clock, at the Freemasons' Tavern, for a fifteen shilling
dinner. Business was to commence at seven o'clock, and
the chairman was to leave the chair at nine."
After drawing up rules and other initial formalities, in-
cluding the election of a Patron (Eight Honourable Charles
F. GreviUe, F.RS.) and a President (G. B. Greenough, M.P.,
F.RS.), the members, in accordance with one of their laws,
set themselves to work in '' contributing to the advancement
of geological science, more particularly as connected with
the mineral history of the earth." Their numbers increased,
and among their early adherents they could count even the
President of the Boyal Society, who requested admission into
their ranks. Specimens of minerals were presented to them
with such liberality that within a year the idea took definite
shape of securing some permanent place for the collections
and meetings of the Society. Accordingly, in 1809, rooms
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HISTORY OF THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY. 121
were obtained at No. 4 Garden Court, Temple, and there the
infant Society was enabled first to erect its household gods.
But this step, so indicative of independence and activity,
soon led to serious troublea
'' The Society reckoned among its members many who
were Fellows of the Soyal Society, and so long as it aimed
at nothing more than dining once a month and discussing
geological subjects, there was nothing to which the Fellows
of the Eoyal Society could raise any objection. But as soon
as^ a s ep a rate hatntation was proposed, with a separate collec-
tion of specimens, it was at once objected that the dignity of
the Boyal Society would be impaired. At the meeting on
March 3 (1809), Sir Joseph Banks sent in his resignation,
and soon after a proposal was made by the Patron, the Eight
Hon. Charles Greville, to make the Geological Society an
assistant association to the Boyal Society. The drift of the
plan was, that the Geological Society should consist of two
classes of members — (1.) those who were Fellows of the
Boyal Society, and (2.) those who were not That all papers
should be sent to the Boyal Society for them to select what
they liked for publication, and that the Geological Society
should be at liberty to publish the rejected papers if they
wished. A special meeting to consider this proposal was
held at the Freemasons' Tavern on March 10, when this
resolution was passed : — ' That any proposition tending to
render this Society dependent upon or subservient to any
other Society does not correspond with the conception this
meeting entertains of the original principles upon which the
Geological Society was founded.' The proposal was decided
to be inadmissible, and it was pointed out that it was never
intended to impose any obligations on members of the Geo-
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122 SIB RODERICK MURCHISON.
logical Society inconsistent with their allegiance to the Boyal
Society. Mr. GreviUe sent in his resignation as Patron, but
the firmness shown by a few of the promoters of the Society
secured for it freedom and independence of action."
This vigorous action no doubt helped to strengthen the
Society both in numbers and in influence. Even so early as
1810 the first habitation at the Temple was found too small,
and the chattels of the Society were in that year transferred
to No. 3 Lincoln's Inn Fields. Further evidence of vigour
was shown by the fact that the papers read at the meetings
began in 1811 to be published in quarto volumes of the
massive orthodox size, and with wealth of margin and illus-
trations. After six years of great activity, the need for
further space again became urgent Another migration
took place, the rooms selected being at No. 20 Bedford Street,
Covent Garden. For twelve years, that is from 1816 to
1828, the Society continued to hold its meetings in that
building. It was while there that ** in 1825 a Charter of
Incorporation was applied for and obtained from George iv.,
the date of affixing the royal seal being April 23, ' in the
sixth year of our reign.' The five members named in the
charter were, — ^W. Buckland, Arthur Aikin, John Bostock,
G. Bellas Greenough, and Henry Warburton. Dr. Buckland
was by the charter appointed first President"
The Geological Society of London " was, in its early days,"
to quote the words of one of its former most distinguished
members, " composed of robust, joyous, and independent
spirits, who toiled well in the field, and did battle and cuffed
opinions with much spirit and great good will ; for they had
one great object before them — ^the promotion of true know-
ledge — and not one of them was deeply committed to any
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18M.6.] JOINS THE GEOLOGISTS. 123
system of opinions." The same writer boasts of " the joyous
meetings, and of the generous, unselfish, and truth-loving
spirit that glowed throughout the whole body." *
It was into this pleasant gathering of enthusiasts that
Murchison found his way in the winter of 1824-25. " I
entered the Society," he says, " Professor Buckland of Oxford
being President, and on the 7th of January took my seat,
and had my hand shaken by that remarkable man, who was
then giving such an impulse to our new science, and was of
course my idoL One of the honorary secretaries, then a
young lawyer, was Charles Lyell, who then read his first
paper, on the marl-lake at Kinnordy, in Forfarshire, the
property of his father.
" Among my scientific friends I was of course most proud
to reckon Dr. Wollaston, who then and in subsequent years
invariably took pains to make me understand the true
method of searching after new facts, and often corrected my
slips and mistakes.
** I also owed great obligation to Mr. Thomas Webster.
His acquaintance with minerals and ores, as well as with fossil
animal remains, and his well-compoeed descriptions, were
strikingly illustrated by his great powers as an artist. Bom
in the Shetland Isles, and there receiving a good education,
Webster had never seen in that r^on a tree higher than a
bush, so that in coming southwards, as he told me, he never
could forget the astonishment and admiration he felt, when
on reaching the valley of Berriedale, on the borders of Suther-
land, he for the first time saw true forest-trees. Before these he
kneeled down, as true a worshipper as Linnaeus when he first
beheld in England the yellow blossom of our common furze.
^ Sedgwick, BriL Pal, FouiU, Introdaction, pp. xo. xcii.
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124 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [laai-a
" Sedgwick, Whewell, Peacock, Babbage, Herschel, and
all the eminent Cantabs of the time, came flocking in con-
tinually to our scientific assemblies. From his buoyant and
cheerful nature, as well as from his flow of soul and elo-
quence, Sedgwick at once won my heart, and a year only
was destined to elapse before we became coadjutors in a
survey of the Highlands, and afterwards of various parts of
the Ck>ntinent"
To show farther the contrast between his eknployments
in London and his amusements during previous winters in
the country, it may be well to note that he not merely made
a good many acquaintances among scientific people, but be-
came a personal friend of not a few men who then or after-
wards stood in the foremost ranks of literatura He met
Thomas Moore, Hallam, Copley (Lord Lyndhurst), Lord
Dudley, and others, who used to frequent the soir^ of Miss
Lydia White, whose well-known ambition it was to gather
round her the intellect and taste of London society.^
With lectures on science, scientific papers and discus-
sions, evening soir^, and the opportunity of hearing and
talking to men who had already made themselves famous,
he found enough fully to fill up his time, and to make Lon-
don life a very different thing to him bom what it had been
in the old days when he used to escape to town from the
monotony of a country barrack. With his characteristic
ardour, he had. not completed his first winter^s studies before
he longed to be off into the field to observe for himsell
" My first real field work," he says, " b^an under Pro-
^ Sir Walter Soott, who knew thi« lady well, deaoribee her aa " what
Oxoniana call a lioneea of the first order, with atockinga nineteen timea
nine dyed bine, very lively, very good-humonred, and extremely abanrd.*'
'^Life, ToL ii p. 137.
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iffl4-».] FIRST FIELD DAYS WITH BUCKLAND. 125
feasor Buckland, who having taken a fancy to me as one of
his apt scholars, invited me to visit him at Corpus Christi
College, Oxford, and attend one or two of his lectures. This
was my true launch. Travelling down with him in the Ox-
ford coach, I learned a world of things before we reached the
Isis, and, amongst others, his lecture on Crustacea, given
whilst he pulled to pieces on his knees a cold crab bought at
a fishmongei^s shop at Maidenhead, where he usually lunched
as the coach stopped.
^ On repairing fix>m the Star Inn to Buckland's domicile,
I never can forget the scene which awaited me. Having, by
direction of the janitor, climbed up a narrow staircase, I
entered a long corridor-like room (now all destroyed), which
wfts filled with rocks, shells, and bones in dire confusion,
and, in a sort of sanctum at the end, was my friend in his
black gown looking like a necromancer, sitting on the one
only rickety chair not covered with some fossils, and clean-
ing out a fossil bone from the matrix."
The few days at Oxford were memorably pleasant Buck-
land's wit and enthusiasm glowed through all his scientific
sayings and doings, and he had a rare power of description
by which he could make even a dry enough subject fascinat-
ingly interesting. Murchison heard one or two brilliant
lectures from him, but what was of stiU more importance, he
accompanied the merry Professor and his students, mounted
on Oxford hacks, to Shotover Hill, and for the first time in
his life had a landscape geologically dissected before him.
From that eminence his eye was taught to recognise the
broader features of the succession of the oolitic rocks of Eng-
land up to the far range of the Chalk Hills ; and this not in
a dull, text-book fashion, for Buckland, in luminous language,
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126 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [law-a
brought the several elements of the landscape into connexion
with each other and with a few fundamental principles which
have determined the sculpturing of the earth's surface. His
audience came to see merely a rich vale in the midst of
fertile England, but before they quitted the ground the land-
scape had been made to yield up to them clear notions of the
origin of springs and the principles of drainage.
This was the very kind of instruction needed to fan the
growing flame of Murchison's zeal for science. He returned
to town burning with desire to put his knowledge to some
use by tiying to imitate, no matter how feebly, the admirable
way in which the Oxford Professor had appUed the lessons
of the lecture-room to the elucidation of the history of hills
and valleys. While shooting and rambling, as he had so
often done, at the house of his father-in-law, he had already
noted many geological £eu^ts in the district around Petersfield
without paying much heed to them, or seeking in any way
for their explanation; but firom what he had learnt fix>m
Mr. Webster and Dr. Fitton as to the Isle of Wight, he could
see that in that island he should most likely find materials
for understanding the geology of Petersfield. Accordingly he
determined that this should be his first essay in independent
field-work. Of this time he writes : " I was totus in Hits,
and making every preparation for a thorough survey of all
the South coast — a project which was gladly backed up by
my wife, who now saw that I was fairly bitten with my
new hobby. Conybeare and Phillips' Geology of England and
Wales had then become my scientific bible, and I saw that a
fine field was opening for any zealous and active searcher
after truth in completing many gaps which they had left to
be filled up.'*
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1825.] HIS FIRST INDEPENDENT FIELD-WORK, 127
The summer of 1825 broiight Murchison and his wife
back once more to Nursted House, but the Hambledon fox-
hounds had now lost their charms for him. With the same
zeal he had thrown himself into another kind of hunting, in
which, instead of old Parson Bichards and his friends, he
had for companion his own wife. Many a deep lane and
rocky dingle did they explore together for fossils. Dr. Fitton
came down to visit them and joined in the pursuit, tracing
out by degrees the weU-marked succession of cretaceous
strata shown in that district
Seeing in this way the problems which he had to work
out in the Petersfield district, Murchison started with his
wife in the middle of August on a tour of nine weeks along
the South coast, from the Isle of Wight into Devon and
ComwaU. Taking a light carriage and a pair of horses, he
made the journey in short stages, lingering for days at some
of the more interesting or important geological localities.
Driving, boating, walking, or scrambling, the enthusiastic
pair signalized their first geological tour by a formidable
amount of bodily toiL Mrs. Murchison specially devoted
herself to the collection of fossils, and to sketching the more
striking geological features of the coast-line, while her hus-
band would push on to make some long and laborious detour.
In this way, while she remained quietly working at Lyme
Eegis, he struck westward for a fortnight into Devon and
Cornwall, to make his first acquaintance with the rocks to
which in after years Sedgwick and he were to give the name
by which they are now recognised all over the world.
It was in the course of this tour that he met with a man
whom he has the merit of having brought into notice, and
who certainly amply requited him by the services rendered
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128 SIB RODERICK MURCHISON. [vm.
in later years. William Lonsdale had served in the Penin-
sular war, and retired on half-pay to Bath. With the most
simple and abstemious habits his slender income sufficed not
only for his wants, but for the purchase of any book or fossil
he coveted, and so he spent his time in studying the organic
remains, and specially the fossil corals, to be found in his
neighbourhood. Murchison met him accidentally in some
quarries, — '^ a tall, grave man, with a huge hammer on his
shoulder,'' — and found him so fiQl of information that he
stayed some days at Bath under Lonsdale's guidance.
With the enlargement of view which so instructive a
ramble had given him, Murchison prepared and read to the
Geological Society, on 16th December 1825, his first scientific
paper, — ** A Geological Sketch of the North-western extre-
mity of Sussex, and the adjoining parts of Hants and Surrey."'
This little essay bore manifest evidence of being the result
of careful observation of the order of succession of the rocks
in the field, followed by as ample examination of their
fossils as he could secure from those best qualified to give an
opinion upon them. Li these respects it was typical of all
his later work.
Having shown by this first publication his capacity as
an observer and describer, and being further recommended
by the leisure which his position of independence enabled
him to command, he was soon after elected one of the two
honorary secretaries of the Geological Society. " Lyell being
then a law-student, with chambers in the Temple, could only
devote a portion of his time to our science, and was glad to
make way as secretary to one who, like myself, had nothing
else to do than think and dream of geology, and work hard
to get on in my new vocation."
^ See Oeol, Traina^ 2d aer^ toL iL p. 97.
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Digitized by VjOOQIC
Vol,. I. Tu ftn'e jtaye 1 ^J.
VILLIAM HYDE WOLL.\BT()N. M.D.
From a Dmu'iiuj by Sir Thf/majf iMwrence.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1826.] ENTERS TEE ROYAL SOCIETY. 129
In the spring of 1826 he was elected into the Boyal
Society — an honour more easily won then than now, and
for which, as the President, his old friend Sir Humphry
Davy told him, he was indebted not to the amount or value
of his scientific work, but to the fact that he was an inde-
pendent gentleman having a taste for science, with plenty of
time and enough of money to gratify it. His acquaintance
with the scientific men of London daily increased, Davy and
Wollaston being specially attentive in their encouragement.
Of his intercourse with the latter he writes : " Wollaston's
little dinners of four or five persons were most agreeable,
and you were sure to come away with much fresh know-
ledga A good dish of fish, a capital joint and some game,
fallowed by his invariable large pudding, filled in with
apples, apricots, or green-gages, all served on plain white
porcelain by two tidy, handsome women, was the bill of
fare.
" This was perhaps about the happiest period of my life.
I had shaken off the vanities of the fashionable world to
a good extent — was less anxious to know titled folks and
leading sportsmen — ^wm free of all the cares and expenses of
a stable frill of horses — and had taken to a career in which
excitement in the field carried with it occupation, amuse-
ment, and possibly reputation."
But if distinction was to be won in this new kind of
activity, it could only be by hard toil in the field. He had
never had any of the special training which would have fitted
him for working out geological problems indoors, such as the
discrimination of fossils, or the characters and alterations of
minerals and rocks ; hence, although stress of weather, not to
speak ^f the pleasures of society, brought him to London and
VOL. L I
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130 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [im
kept him there during the winter and spring, he soon saw
that to insure progress in his adopted pursuit he must spend
as much as possible of every summer and autumn in original
field-exploration. He had begun well in this way by the tour
along the South coast. Now that another summer had come
round he prepared to resume his hammer in the field. As
before, a definite task was given to him. Buckland and
others advised him to go north and settle the geological age
of the Brora coal-field, in Sutherlandshira Some geologists
maintained that the rocks of that district were merely a part
of the ordinary coal, or carboniferous system ; others held
them to be greatly younger, to be indeed of the same general
age with the lower oolitic strata of Yorkshire. A good
observer might readily settle this question. Murchison
resolved to try.
Again he prepared himself by reading and study of fossils
to understand the evidence he was to collect and interpret ;
and in order to do full justice to the Scottish tract, he went
first to the Yorkshire coast and made himself master of the
succession and leading characters of the rocks so admirably
displayed along that picturesque line of cliffs. The summer
had hardly begun before he and his wife broke up their
camp in London and were on the move northward.
At York he made the acquaintance of two men with
whom he was destined in after life to have much dose inter-
course and co-operation, — ^the Eev. William Vernon (after-
wards Vernon Harcourt) and Mr. John Phillips. The latter
friend has kindly contributed the following reminiscences
of this interview : — " In a bright afl;emoon of early summer,
while engaged in museum arrangements, a man of cheerftil
and distinguished aspect was presented to me by the Pre-
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1826.] WILLIAM SMITH AND JOHN PHILLIPS. 131
sideut of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society, Mr, W.
Vernon (Harcourt), as Mr. Murchison, a &iend of Buck-
land, desirous of consulting our collections. The museum
was tolerably well supplied with oolitic fossils, and espe-
cially those of the coralline oolite and calcareous grit of
Yorkshire. Some of these were amusing enough. A
diligent collector at Malton, who supplied the museum
with specimens, sometimes brought what were called
* beetles,' made by painting and varnishing parts of shells
and crustaceans. After examining the 'fossils' with care,
Murchison would see these 'curiosities.' As it happened,
they were laid contemptuously at the base of vertical cases,
and were rather diflScult to get out — 'Never mind,' said
the old soldier, ' we will lie down and reconnoitre on the
floor.' I knew then that geology had gained a resolute
disciple, possibly a master-workman,"
Murchison's own record of the meeting is as follows : —
" Phillips, then a youth, was engaged in arranging a small
museimi at York. He recommended me strongly to his
uncle, William Smith, who was then living at Scarborough,
and had little intercourse with the Geological Society, for
he thought that Greenough and others, in taking from him
the main materials of his original Geological Map of Eng-
land, had done him an injustice. The unpretending country
land-surveyor, who had really the highest merit of them all,
had been somewhat snubbed by such men as Dr. Macculloch
and others, who, having a superior acquaintance with the
chemical composition of rocks and minerals, did not appre-
ciate the broad views of Smith.
*' From the moment I had my first walk with William
Smith (then ^bout sixty years old), I felt that he was just
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132 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isaj.
the man after mj own heart ; and he, on his part, seeing
that I had, as he said, ' an eye for a country,' took to me
and gave me most valuable lessons. Thus he made me
thoroughly acquainted with all the strata north and south
of Scarborough. He afterwards accompanied me in a boat
all along the coast, stopping and sleeping at Bobin Hood's
Bay. Not only did I then learn the exact position of the
beds of poor coal which crop out in that tract of the eastern
moorlands, but collecting with him the characteristic fossils
from the calcareous grit down to the lias, I saw how clearly
strata must alone be identified by their fossils, inasmuch as
here, instead of oolitic limestones like those of the south
we had sandstones, grits, and shales, which, though closely
resembling the beds of the old coal, were precise equivalents
of the oolitic series of the soutL Smith walked stoutly
with me all under the cliflfs, from Eobin Hood's Bay to
Whitby, making me well note the characteristic fossUs of
each formation."
Though the main object of this summer tour was to
work out the geological problem which had been assigned
to him in Sutherlandshire, he sketched a most circuitous
route, partly for the sake of showing Mrs. Murchison some-
thing more of the Highlands than she had yet seen, and
partly with the view of putting to use his new acquirements
in geology ; so that after reaching Edinburgh, and having its
geology expounded to him by Jameson, instead of striking
north at once, he turned westwards to the island of Arran,
and spent many weeks among the Western islands, from the
Firth of Clyde to the north of Skye. The hills of his native
coimtry had now acquired an interest for him which they
never possessed, even in the days when they drew him off
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1626.] TOUR IN THE HIGHLANDS. 133
in eager pursuit of grouse and black-cock. At every halt
his first anxiety was to know what the rocks of the place
might be, and how far he could identify their geological
position. In Arran he filled his note-book with observa-
tions and queries about granite, red sandstone, limestone,
and other puzzling matters, on which his previous expe-
rience in field-work in the south of England and in York-
shire could throw no light, and for the elucidation of which
he wisely resolved to secure at some future time the guidance
and co-operation of an older geologist than himself. It was
in the fulfilment of this resolution that Sedgwick and he
first became fellow-workers in the field.
Sailing packets, small boats, and post-horses combined
to make a tour among the Inner Hebrides and West High-
lands in those days a leisurely affair. A geologist had many
opportunities of using his hammer by the way, and Murchison
seems always to have had his in his hand or in his pocket,
and to have jotted down in detail what he saw. The itinerary
of his journey shows that he scoured the hills and glens of
Mull, peeped into every nook and cranny of Stafia, mounted
to the top of Ben Nevis and recognised its curious crest of
porphyry, went up to the Parallel Eoads of Glen Boy, as-
cended the Great Glen, and then turning west through
Glengarry to Glenshiel, found himself in Skye. In that
wildest and weirdest of the Western Islands he and his wife
did excellent work in collecting fossils, and thereby obtain-
ing materials for making more detailed comparison between
the secondary rocks of the West of Scotland and those of
England than had been attempted by Dr. MaccuUoch. The
actual fossil-hunting was mainly done by Mrs. MurclusoD,
after whom one of the shells {AmmoniUs Murchiaonict) was
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134 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. \\m.
named by Sowerby, while her husband climbed the cliffs
and trudged over the moors and crags to make out the order
of succession among the secondary strata.
But the tour was not merely geological Many a halt
and detour were made to get a good view of some fine
scenery, or to make yet another sketch. Friends and High-
land cousins, too, were plentifully scattered along the route,
so that the travellers had ample experience of the hearty
hospitality of those regions. An occasional shot at grouse or
deer varied the monotony of the hammering ; but even when
stalking, Murchison could not keep his eyes from the rocks.
Amid the jottings of his sport he had facts to chronicle about
the gneiss or porphyry or sandstone through which the sport
had led him. This characteristic, traceable even at this early
period of his life, remained prominent up to the last autumn
of his life in which he was able to wield a gun or a hammer.
The summer had in great part passed before he reached
that part of the eastern coast of Sutherlandshire where the
scene of his special task lay; but that task proved to be
eminently easy. From Dunrobin, where he was hospitably
entertained, he could follow northwards and southwards a
regular succession of strata, and recognised in them the
equivalents of parts of the oolitic series of Yorkshire. The
Brora coal, therefore, instead of forming paxt of the true
carboniferous system, was simply a local peculiarity in the
oolitic series. As in Skye, he made a collection of fossils
which offered a means of satisfactory comparison with the
oolitic rocks of England.
The rapidity with which this piece of work could be
done left time for a prolongation of the tour northwards
through Caithness, even up into the Orkney Islands, but at
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i82ft.7.] THE THAMES TUNNEL. 135
lengih the tourists Iiad to prepare for a southward migration
again. Beaching Inverness, they turned eastward to Aber-
deen, and thence, with Bout's Essai in hand, down the eastern
coast, by Peterhead, Bullers of Buchan, Arbroath, and St.
Andrews. While in Fife they received tidings of the serious
illness of the old General at Ninrsted. Abruptly closing this
protracted ramble, they took their places in the mail-coach,
and travelled without intermission into Hants. The imme-
diate result of this summer^s work was seen in the prepara-
tion of a paper for the Geological Society.^
As before, the winter was passed in London, and this
became henceforth Murchison's practice. The summer and
autumn usually found him in the country for fresh observa-
tions, with visits to old Mends and a renewal of field-sports ;
but when winter b^an to set in, imless when abroad, he
made his way back to town to renew the socialities of life,
in which he delighted, and to elaborate his geological work
for publication.
Among the incidents of London life in the winter of
1826-27, he has preserved some notes of a hazardous de-
scent into the Thames Tunnel, then in course of construc-
tion. The river had burst in upon the works, and the two
Brunels were organizing means for expelling the intruder.
Considerable discussion went on in scientific circles as to
the mode of procedure, or whether it was worth proceeding
at alL Dr. Buckland organized a party to go down and
^ '< On the Coal-field of Bror% in Sntherlandebire, and some other
stratified deposits in the north of Scotland" {TroM, OtoL 8oc,, 2d series,
ToL n. p. 293), an excellent memoir, in which the principles of William
Smith were, for the first time, applied in detail to the oolitic rocks of
Scotland, and which gave the first connected acooont of these rocks, with
lists of characteristic fossils
Digitized by VjOOQIC
136 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [isje-r.
inspect, including Charles Bonaparte (afterwards Prince of
Canino) and Murchison.
** The first operation we underwent (one which I never
repeated) was to go down in a diving-bell upon the cavity
by which the Thames had broken in. Buckland and Feather-
stonehaugh, having been the first to volunteer, came up with
such red faces and such staring eyes, that I confess I felt
no great inclination to follow their example, particularly as
Charles Bonaparte was most anxious to avoid the dilemma,
excusing himself by saying that his family was very short-
necked and subject to apoplexy, etc. ; but it would not do
to show the white feather ; I got in, and induced him to
follow me. The efiTect was, as I expected, most oppressive,
and then on the bottom what did we see but dirty gravel
and mud, from which I brought up a fragment of one of
Hunt's blacking-bottles. We soon pulled the string, and
were delighted to breathe the fresh air.
** The first folly was, however, quite overpowered by the
next. We went down the shaft on the south bank, and got,
with young Brunei, into a punt, which he was to steer into
the tunnel till we reached the repairing-shield. About eleven
feet of water were still in the tunnel, leaving just space
enough above our heads for Brunei to stand up and daw
the ceiling and sides to impel us. As we were proceeding
he called out, ' Now, gentlemen, if by accident there should
be a rush of water, I shall turn the punt over and prevent
you being jammed against the roof, and we shall then all be
carried out and up the shaft !' On this C. Bonaparte re-
marked, ' But I cannot swim V and, just as he had said the
words, Brunei, swinging carelessly from right to left, fell
overboard, and out went of course the candles, with which
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1827.] PROPOSES A JOINT TOUR TO SEDGWICK. 137
he was lighting up the place. Taking this for the sauve
qui pent, fet C. B., then the very image of Napoleon at St.
Helena, was about to roll out after him, when I held him
fast, and, bj the glimmering light from the entrance, we
found young Brunei, who swam like a fish, coming up on
the other side of the punt, and soon got him on board. We
of course called out for an immediate retreat, for really there
could not be a more foolhardy and ridiculous risk of our
lives, inasmuch as it was just the moment of trial as" to
whether the Thames would make a further inroad or not"
As the spring months wore away, short visits to the
country could be resumed, as, for example, down to Oxford,
to join in one of the galloping excursions of the merry Pro-
fessor of Geology, or to Lewes to make the acquaintance of
Dr. Mantell, then in fuU medical practice, but who had
found time to distinguish himself as a zealous palaeontologist
and collector. In the course of these short and desultory
excursions, Murchison supplemented his former work in the
Fetersfield district, and made himself master of the full suc-
cession of the cretaceous formations.
But a much more lengthy and ambitious tour had
already been planned. In the previous year, during the
rambles in Arran and elsewhere in the north, he had met
with many puzzling facts. Particularly had he been dis-
comfited by the problems presented by the red sandstones of
the west coast And as we have already noted, he had
determined to return to the attack, bringing with him a
geologist of ampler knowledge and specially experienced in
the complicated structure of the older rocks. Of all his
geological friends none had won his respect and admiration
so entirely as Sedgwick. Admirable as an observer, clear
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138 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isssr.
and brilliant as an expositor, the Woodwardian Professor
was one of the kindliest, wittiest, merriest of companions.
While Mnrchison's pursuit of science was now and con-
tinued through life to be a serious earnest task, Sedgwick's
enthusiasm and earnestness, on the other hand, were quite
as great, his knowledge far greater, but he threw over
his scientific work the charm of his own bright genial
nature. Brimful of humour and bristling with apposite
anecdote, his scientific talk was greatly more entertaining
than the ordinary conversation of most good talkers, for he
could so place a dry scientific fact as to photograph it on the
memory while at the same time he linked it with something
droll or fanciful or tender, so that it seemed ever after to
wear a kind of human significance. No keener eye than his
ever ranged over the rocks of England, and yet while noting
each feature of their structure or scenery he delighted to carry
through his geological work an endless thread of fun and
wit No wonder therefore that Murchison, who, though not
himself gifted with humour, had a keen relish for it as it
came from others, should have made choice of such a com-
panion.
But Sedgwick had already distinguished himself in the
difficult labour of unravelling the structure of some of the
older rocks of tlus country. And it was in the older rocks
that the problems lay which had baffled Murchison during
his first geological raid into Scotland. In every way the
society of the Cambridge Professor would be an advantage
to him ; it would give him at once a skilful instructor^ a
generous fellow-labourer, and a buoyant companion. His
proposal that Sedgwick should return with him to Scotland
was accepted, and the two friends, destined to achieve many
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Vol. I. To /xrr jHKlts l-iS.
ADAM aKDOWIl.'K. F K.H.
From a Photogniph.
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1827.] FIRST TOUR WITH SEDGWICK. 139
an aiduous and hard-won success in after years in tlie field
together, started on their first conjoint geological tour early
in July 1827.
The main object of this journey was to ascertain if
possible the true relations of the red sandstones of Scot-
land — a subject in regard to which Murchison himself had
observed many diflBcult or apparently contradictory facts in
the previous year, and which the maps and writings of Mac-
culloch had not fuUy explained. The route chosen agreed on
the whole with that previously followed by Murchison and
his wife — Arran, Mull, Skye, thence through the north of
Sutherlandshire to the east coast of Caithness, and then
southwards by Elgin, Aberdeen, Forfarshire, Edinburgh,
Dumfriesshire, Carlisle, and Newcastle, to York.
Throughout by much the greater part of the country to
be traversed in the Highland tracts comparatively little had
been done by geologists beyond the maps and memoirs of
Macculloch, and hence there was little in the way of pub-
lished description to be read before starting. From a loose
slip of paper found among Murchison's repositories, it
appears that in the absence of geological memoranda he
had taken to the acquisition of words and phrases in Gaelic^
and had written down such as he judged would be most
useful. The reader may think this list rather an ominous
one when he is told that it begins with the question in
Gaelic, "Where is the public-house?" and ends off with
'* ooshke day — ^hot water."
From this long and well-worked journey Murchison
profited greatly. Under Sedgwick's guidance he saw clearly
enough now the meaning of things which had puzzled him
not a little before. For example, even at that early time.
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140 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [v^.
Sedgwick had distinguished that peculiar structure in rocks
to which the name of ** cleavage" is now given, and taught
his companion to recognise it^ Fractures and foldings, with
other broad features of geological structure in a r^on of
old dislocated and altered rocks, were likewise unravelled.
But with Sedgwick in the party the tour could not pos-
sibly be all work and no play. They threw themselves
heartily into the ways of the Highlanders, and made friends
all along the route, — ate haggises and drank whisky at one
house, danced in rough coats and hobnailed boots in an-
other, brightened with talk and tale the drawing-room of a
third. Much of the journey was performed on foot over
wild moor and mountain, or in a crazy boat through the
winding i^ords. Some of the expeditions too were imder-
taken in such storms of wind and rain as are seldom seen
anywhere in Britain out of that north-western r^on. Hence
they returned to the south country, not without adventures to
boast of, — ^how, for example, they were nearly lost in boating
from Oreinord to Ullapool, and saved, so Sedgwick said, by
his vigorous help in bailing the leaky boat with his hat, —
or how, Sedgwick wearing a plaid which he had bought from
a shepherd, they were taken by a bustling landlady for a
couple of drovers, and got but scant courtesy, — or how, to
prevent a like mistake at Forfar, Murchison insisted on
^ Among the slate-qiuuTies of BaUmchulish they met with examples of
deavage which Sedgwick pointed ont on the spot to K. yon Oeynhanaen
and H. von Dechen, then rambling through Scotland and gathering ma-
terials for the papers on varioos parts of Highland geology, which they
afterwards published in Karsten's Archiv. He failed to convince them
that there was any essential difference between the original stratification
of the rocks and the lines of cleavage, even though the argument lasted
long, in one of the deluges of rain so characteristio of that weeping
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i8sar.] FIRST TOUR WITH SEDGWICK. 141
going first into the inn, and, to his companion's delight, was
shown into the tap-room ! from which, however, the retired
captain of dragoons discharged such a characteristically mili-
tary volley of denunciation as speedily brought both landlord
and landlady with profuse apologies and a loud command of
" wax-lights for the gentlemen," Among these incidents of
travel one curious coincidence made an impression upon
Murchison's Highland susceptibilities. His mother, as we
have seen, was a Mackenzie of Fairbum, bom in the ances-
Bed Sandstone Mountains on the West Coast of Sutherland.
tral Tower. There had been a tradition in the district to
the effect that the lands should pass out of the hands of the
Mackenzies, and that " the sow should litter in the ladjr's,
chamber." The old tower had now become a ruin, and the
two travellers turned aside to see it. " The Professor and
I," says Murchison, " were groping our way up the broken
stone stair-case, when we were almost knocked over by a
rush of two or three pigs that had been nestling up-stairs
in the very room in which my mother was bom,"
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142 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK [im
After seeing most of the red sandstone tteucAa of Scot-
land the two travellers re-entered England by Carlisle,
crossed to Newcastle, and revisited some of the sporting
scenes of earlier years. One of the friends they saw was
Murchison's former fox-htmting chief, Lord Darlington,
who, he writes, "laughed at my new hobby which had
converted me into 'an earth-stopper!'" — a simile worthy
of a veteran Nimrod who hunted every day of the week
except Sunday,
With the winter came back the usual routine of London
life. The Secretaryship of the Geological Society demanded
a good deal of time and labour, and the President, Dr. Fitton,
kept a sharp eye on his subordinates, so much so, indeed, that
an actual rupture took place between him and Murchison,
which was only healed after much correspondence, and by
the intervention of friends, who endeavoured to convince the
President that he was too exacting, and the Secretary that
he was too insubordinate. Murchison kept all the letters he
received on the subject, and inscribed on the outside of the
packet, — " 1827. Some months' waste of time— Mttoniana,
or disputes with my warm-hearted but peppery friend Dr.
Fitton."
But besides looking after the lucubrations of other writers
aspiring to geological feme, he had plenty of work this winter
in extending for the Society his notes of the Scottish tour
with Sedgwick. The latter was full of work at Cambridge ;
suffering, too, from weak eyes, and given to " water-drinking
and dephlogisticating," — apt, therefore, to delay what he could
push aside for a time, and needing, as he said himself, an
occasional nudge on the elbow. His pen was re(][uired for
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1827.] SEDGWICK AS FELLOW-LABOURER. 143
the conjoint memoir as much as his hammer had been for
the work in the field ; but who could expect much continuous
literary labour firom a man who could speak of himself thus ?
— '* Behold me now !" he says, in a letter to Murchison (28th
October), '^ in a new character, strutting about and looking
dignified, with a cap, gown, cassock, and a huge pair of
bands — the terror of all academical evil-doers — ^in short, a
perfect moral scavenger. My time has been much taken up
with the petty details of my ofl&ce, and in showing the lions
to divers papas and mammas, who, at this time of the year,
come up to the University with the rising hopes of their
families. This week I have to make a Latin speech to the
Senate, not one word of which is yet written, I mean to
write a new syllabus of my lectures, which commence in
about a week ; in short, my hands are as full as they well
can be. I will, however, do the beet I can for our Joini-^tock
vmkT
The two Mends had resolved to make their work in the
Highlands the subject of two Memoirs for the Geological
Society — one on Arran, and one on the Conglomerates of the
northern and eastern counties. The former of these was at
last read to the Society in January 1828, but the second was
kept back by Sedgwick's delay. In a later letter he refers
to a hint from Dr. Fitton to make haste, lest Murchison
should forestall him, and generously speaks of their joint
share in the field-work thus : — ** You worked harder in
many respects than I did myself, and till we reached the
east coast, and indeed there also, you were my geological
guide*** Weeks slip away, and still no help comes from the
Woodwardian Professor, who writes to his friend, — ^' I fear
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144 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK [vm.
you will think me a sorry coadjutor, for all the work is left
to yourselt This is not as it ought to be, but I am at pre-
sent almost a lame soldier." Still time passes, and brings
April round without the completion of Sedgwick's contribu-
tion. On the 7th of that month he says, — ^"Tou call upon
me * for my own reputation and your peace of mind to make
ready.' I promise, if God spare my health and preserve me
of sane mind, to have all in good state before the reading ;
but to expect that our documents should exactly tally, so
that we have only to stitch them together, is to expect im-
possibilities. One is making a key, and the other a lock,
which never can fit till the wards are well rasped and filed.
To rasp and file will be part of my ofl&ce, as well as to fit on
a head and tail" At last, on the 16th May, the conjoint
paper* was fairly launched before the Greological Society.
Murchison had left London for the C!ontinent before that
date. His fellow-labourer, however, sent him an account of
the reception of their first conjoint work. " Our paper,"
Sedgwick writes, " increased to such a size that it was ob-
1 Among the exceUent detaila in the paper on Amn {OeoL Trans,, 2d
series, vol ii.), the authors erred in. identifying the Tarious rocks with
sapposed English equivalents. The structure of the island is too oom^
plex to be worked out offhand in a week or two, and some of its problems
are even yet not understood.
The paper on the Old Red Sandstone of the North of Scotland likewise
showed great observing skill ; but the same risk of error, from compara-
tively hurried examination of a few traverses, was shown in it. The
authors massed all the red sandstones of the west and east coast — an
error which they committed, though knowing what MaccuUoch had
written on the subject, and which Murchison many years later discarded.
One special merit of the paper was the important announcement (con-
firming that made in the Brora paper), of the abundant fossil fishes found
in many parts of Caithness, and the plates and descriptions given of some
of the forms, which in later years were to become so well known through
the writings of Hugh Miller.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1MB.] FIRST JOINT PAPER WITH SEDGWICK. 146
viously too laige to be taken in at one meeting. . . . All
went off well, and ended with the dish of Caithness fish,
which were beautifully cooked by Pentland, and much
iHpteruc
Coooo$t«ut,
Fiahes of the Old Bed Sandstone of Scotland.
relished by the meeting. Greenough, Buckland, Conybeare,
and all the first performers were upon the boards."
These are confessedly details of no great moment in
themselves. They seem, however, to find a fitting place
here, inasmuch as they serve to show the hearty spirit of
friendship and co-operation with which these two men
worked together in the early years of their intercourse.
VOL. I.
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CHAPTER IX.
FIKST GEOLOGICAL RAIDS INTO THE CONTINENT.
The three years which had now passed away since his
geological hammer was first buckled on had been to Mnr •
chison a time of hard work. Even in mere physical exer-
tion his labour had been great^ and would be inadequately
represented by the statement that he had trudged on foot for
^many hundreds of miles over rough shores and still more
ragged mountains. His enthusiasm had been so thoroughly
awakened that there was now no risk of desertion from the
scientific ranks. He had learnt a vast deal in that short
interval, and learnt it too where alone it can be truly
mastered — ^in the field. Of the many avenues of research
which the infEmt science of Geology was opening, he had
already chosen that along which he was to rise to eminence.
Whether in the south of England, among late secondary
and tertiaiy rocks, or in the north and west of Scotland,
among some of the oldest palaeozoic masses, his leading aim
had been to unravel the true order of arrangement of the
rocks, and show their relation to each other and to those of
other and better known regions. * In this pursuit he felt
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1828.] SUCCESS m GEOLOGY. M7
tliat he could distingaish himself, and he had done so. With
leisure at command and a wide field for exertion, q>urred
too by a real love for the work as well as bjr a strong desire
to be prominent, his first three years of geological labour at
home had been a marked success. From a mere b^inner
he had speedily become one of the prcnninent men at the
Creological Society, and one of the most ardent and pro-
mising of the rising geologists of his day.
So thoroughly had geology dispossessed, at least for the
time, all other occupations, that his note-books for these years
contain memoranda of hardly anytMng else. Elaborately
does he detail eveiy section which he saw ; minutely does
he describe every step and stage of each of his journeys.
The main scientific results have long been given to the
world, and there remains, besides the mere dry itinerary,
but the scantiest residuum of personal matters to show in
what other ways his thoughts and time were engaged.
Among his papers occur notes of invitation — a dinner with
Davy, a soiree at Eitton's, — or memoranda of meetings and
consultations with Mends of the Koyal or Geological
Society, and jottings enough to show that his scientific
pursuits had in no way slackened his general activity and
energy, or lessened his pleasure in the convivialities of
society.
But having successfully essayed his strength among the
rocks of his own country, it was not to be supposed that he
would long refrain from making a dash at those of the Con-
tinent^ where it was thought that a good deal might be
done in applying the principles of classification which had
been so successfully used among the Secondary rocks of
England. Accordingly in the winter of 1827-8 he began to
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148 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK [i8s».
turn his thoughts towards a foray of that kind. The restdt
was that, once abroad, he found so much of novelty and
interest there as to bring him back again and again. Hence
for the next three years the scene of his labours extended
from the Straits of Dover through central and southern
France to the shores of the Adriatic on the one hand, and
through Bhineland, Bavaria, and Austria into Hungary on
the other.
The first of these continental excursions was planned to
include the centre and south of France, the north of Italy,
and parts of Switzerland. As usual, copious notes were
made from the various authors who had treated of the
geology of these tracts. "I induced my wife," he writes,
• " to accompany me as well as my associate, Charles LyelL
We were off in April, and on the 26th of that month were
at work in the field with Constant Prevost, following his
subdivisions of the Pans basin. The theoretical views of
Prevost made a deep impression on Lyell, who, as far as I
can judge, imbibed some of his best ideas of the operation
[aie] of land and fresh water alternations with marine de-
posits from the persevering and ingenious Frenchman."
At Paris they met also Cuvier, Brongniart, Deshayes,
£lie de Beaumont, Desmarest, Dufr^noy, and other scientific
men of mark, and made further notes for the summer^s work.
By the beginning of June they found themselves among the
wonderful extinct volcanic cones of Auvergna This singu-
larly interesting r^on had been admirably described shortly
before, both with pen and pencil, by Mr. Poulett Scrope,
whose memoir they carried with them. They were fortunate,
moreover, in having an introduction to Count Montlosier,
one of the noblesse of Auveigne, who, while taking part in the
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i8».] AMONG THE PUTS OF AUVERGNE. 149
political straggles of his country, had devoted himself also
to the study of the volcanic rocks of that district, which he
had described with great spirit and accuracy. Amid the
troubles of the time he had lost all his property, " except a
portion of mountain which was too ungratefal a soiL to find
another purchaser/' Eetiring to this retreat in his old age he
had built himself a cottage in an extinct crater. " The tra-
veller in approaching the door of the philosopher of Eandane
had to wade through scoriae and ashes ; " but beyond these
obstacles he found a hospitable roof and a host whose " lofty
and vigorous presence accorded well with his frank and
chivalrous demeanour."^ A hearty welcome awaited otir
three tourists. Their coming had been anticipated by the
old Count, from whom on reaching Clermont they found
awaiting them a note of invitation and welcome (still
extant) couched in that tone of mingled dignity, courtesy,
and cordiality which seems now one of the lost arta '' He
was charmed to see us," records Murchison, " and to go over
all his old volcanic subjects, and instract us on every feature
around his residence, except on the post day when his
papers and letters came. Then he flew to them, excusing
himself with the old French politesse, ' Pardonnez, Mes-
sieurs et Madame ; mais c'est ma vie.' " *
The three gentlemen, on foot or on horseback, and Mrs.
Murchison on a stout pony of the Count's, explored together
the cones of cinders and chdres of lava. Even to one who
is familiar with volcanoes the first sight of these marvel-^
1 Whewell, Proc, Otol 8oc, iii 70.
> The Coant Montloder ** died in 1837, at the age of eighty-three, on
hit way to Paris to take his seat in the Chamber of Peers, of which he
was a member." See a brief sketch of him by Dr. Whewell, in the
address referred to in the preceding note.
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150 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [im.
loualj fresh cones and craters and lava-rivers fills the mind
with astonishment. He wanders perhaps up a narrow and
picturesque valley feathered with birch and broom down the
sides, and gaily green with meadow and orchard along the
bottom. Suddenly he comes upon the rough black lava,
usurping the channel of the stream, and still bare and
bristling, as if it had only yesterday stiffened into rest. And
then climbing further by the edge of the lava-torrent, he
comes at last in sight of the marvel of the region — ^the chain
of Puys — cones of volcanic materials still so perfect that he is
tempted to watch if steam or smoke cannot still be seen rising
firom their tops. But when, crossing the lava stream, he
mounts the steep sides of one of these old volcanoes, he finds it
cold and silent There beneath him lies the crater — a deep
hole sunk into the summit of the hill, no longer breathing
out volcanic heat and fumes, but carpeted even to the
bottom with turf, and fragrant with many a wild-flower.
And from these depths, whence in old times came the snort-
ing and bellowing of the volcano, there rises now on the
breeze only the tinkle of the cattle-bells or the hum of the
bee.
These are the youngest of the volcanoes of Central France,
but all round them lie fragments of older and yet older
eruptions, pointing to a long protracted volcanic period — so
long, indeed, that the rivers of the district had been able to
cut out in the older lavas deep and wide valleys, down which
some of the later lavas flowed. Beyond measure instructive,
therefore, is such a country to the geologist, inasmuch as it
places before him admirable illustrations of the action both
of subterranean and external forces.
Amid such scenes as these, our travellers spent some six
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1888.] IN SOUTHERN FRANCE AND ITALY, 151
weeks, riding, climbing, driving, and filling note-book and
sketch-book with memoranda of rocks and scenery. These
rambles bore fruit during the succeeding winter in papers
which were read before the Geological Society.^
Turning eastward, the travellers journeyed leisurely down
the valley of the Bhone, looking at rocks and antiquities by
the way, until they reached Montpe^er, and thence passed
on by Nismes to Aix, in Provence.* After quitting Toulon,
an incident occurred to mar the good spirits and hinder the
work of the party. Murchison caught a malaria fever, and
became rapidly delirious. He soon recovered, however, and,
except a temporary loss of strength, suffered no evil effects,
escaping more fortunately than his wife had done, for the
symptoms of the fever she was seized with at Rome used to
return upon her at intervals all through life. To recruit him
a halt of nearly three weeks was made at Nice, where the
invalid soon regained his former activity, scouring the dis-
trict all round the town under the guidance of Bisso the
conchologist, who led him over the fossiliferous deposits.
While recruiting his health at Nice, Murchison sent an
account of the tour to the Woodwardian Professor, from
which a few sentences may be quoted. In Central France
'^we left various things undone, consoling ourselves that
such a case was to be worked out by Sedgwick next year.
And here let me, by way of parenthesis, invoke the philo-
sophical spirit of inquiry which prevails at Cambridge, and
urge you, who are really almost our only mathematical
^ *' On the Exoavation of Valleys, as illustrated by the Voloanic Bocks
of Oeotral Prance." By Charles Lyell and Boderick I. Murchison.—
Proc GeoL Soc, i. 89. See also p. 140.
> See Proc OeoL 8oc, I 150, where their conjoint paper on this tract
is given.
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152 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [isjs.
champion^ not to let another year elapse without endeav-
onring to add to the stock of your British geology some of
the continental materials. Pray do it before you many and
settle for life ; pray even do it before you bring forth that
long-expected second volume on the Geology of England
and Wales ;^ your comparisons will then have a strength
and freshness which Will quite electrify us." "We met
with splendid cases of basalt and trap, rivalling in an-
tiquity of aspect our northern acquaintances/' "splendid -
proofis of the extraordinary amount of excavation in the
valleys," two thousand feet or more of fresh-water strata,
with apparently " everything which characterizes even the
older secondaries" — ^"red sandstones," "grits, shales," "an
excellent comstone, and beneath this lymneceeLniplanorbes;'*
little " coal-fields — true chips of the old coal-block." " In
dust and insufferable heat, which have never quitted us
since, we descended the Rhone." " The only cool place we
could find was Buckland's hyaena cave at Lunel. Our
journey across to Aix en Provence was most interesting,
and that place offered so much that we halted a week, our
work being now reduced to four or five hours in the morn-
ing, from four to nine, and a little in the evening. We
hope to show you twenty or thirty species of insects !! from
the gypsum quarries there. In this city of idleness we
have been pent up during ten days, not daring to travel
into Italy with these heats : it has not rained one drop here
for eight months."
After making a number of excursions together in the
Vicentin, Mr. Lyell having finally resolved to abandon law
and devote himself wholly to geology, turned off southwards
^ Coaybeare and FhiUips* Outlines beiag considered ikejint Tolaine.
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/iV THE TYROL. 153
to pxirsue his inquiries among the tertioiy locks, while the
other two travellers struck eastwards to Venice, and thence
into the Alps. At Bassano, Murchison collected materials
for a paper on the tertiary and secondary rocks of the
Tyrolese Alps, which was read to the Geological Society in
the following spring. Ascending by Botzen, he examined
the now well-known earth-pillars — tall pyramids of stony
day, each with a stone or big boulder on its summit, and
conjectured their materials to have been accumulated by
** powerful torrents coincident with the elevation of the
chain." At that time the former extension of the glaciers
of the Alps had not yet been realized by geologists. Hence
not at Botzen only, but up the valley of the Inn, and in
other parts of the mountains traversed in this tour, Murchison,
following the prevalent notions of the time, looked upon all
the masses of "" drift," with travelled blocks, as the results of
powerful deluges or cUbdcles, which swept down the valleys
or over the hiUs.
Having recently supplied the (reological Society with
what Sedgwick called " a dish of fossil fish" firom the old
red sandstone of Caithness, he took the opportunity of turn-
ing aside to collect another meal of the same materials &om
the bituminous schists of Seefeld — a little mountain village
of the Tyrol, where some of the rocks were so impr^nated
with animal matter, from the abundance of fish remains
imbedded in them, that for generations the villagers had
been in the habit of roasting fragments of the stone, out of
which they obtained oil for their lamps and cart-wheels.
This little episode was turned to account in the following
winter, and bore fruit in a paper upon these dark schists
and their fish, read to the Geological Society.
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154 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80X. [isas.
A leisurely journey, with many halts by the way to
allow of the use of hammer and sketch-book, brought the
travellers through the picturesque tract between the valley
of the Inn and the Lake of Constance, and thence once more
into Switzerland. But this time it was not fine scenery, nor
even a field for feats of pedestrianism, which formed the
chief attractions of the coimtry. At every resting-place an
attempt was made to ascertain the nature and sequence of
the rocks, and as much time and labour were now given to
hunt up an old quarry as in former days would have been
gladly given to find out a half-hidden specimen of an old
master. Beaching Stein, Murchison set at once about ex-
ploring the quarries of Oeningen, famous for having formerly
yielded the skeleton which Scheuchzer gravely described as
'' Homo diluvii testis ;** but which more recent science has
shown to be not human, but salamandrina " To my joy I
learnt," he writes, " that in the last two years the quarries
had been re-opened, and that a very remarkable new quad-
ruped had been recently exhumed. This splendid fossil had
fallen into the hands of a doctor and a silversmith of the
little town, and was in the house of the former, where I in-
spected it, and counted twenty- three vertebrae. On the whole
it was like a dog, fox, or wol£ I resolved at once to acquire
it, provided, on my return to Paris, M. Cuvier should pro-
nounce upon its value, the sum asked being £30. It was
however, essential that I should have a drawing, and there-
fore my wife stole out with her pattens across the muddy
street early next morning, before the doctor was up, and
induced the servant girl to let her in to sketch the beast
The moment Cuvier saw the drawing he said it was in all
probability a fox. Of course an old fox-hunter like me
Digitized by VjOOQIC
182B.] FINDS A FOSSIL FOX. 155
could not resist the bonne l(mche of finding the first fossil
fox, and, writing back from Pans, I acquired the animal,
which I gave to the British Museum,^ and which Owen has
since turned into the * dog of the marsh,' — more newly
related to the civet-cat than any other living animal" '
Journeying by Basle, Strasbourg, the Vosges mountains,
and thence through France, with many a stop and detour to
visit geological sections or the contents of museums, the
travellers did not reach England until the end of October.
They had thus been six months abroad. During that time
Murchison seems to have done his best not to let a single
day pass without adding to his stock of geological know-
ledge. With an enthusiasm which must have made him
a somewhat troublesome companion, he spared no bodily
fatigue in pursuit of his inquiries, throwing himself as
heartily into questions regarding the order of succession
among the rocks of each town or valley he visited, as if the
place had been his home. The work of these six months
was reduced to form in two memoirs, which he himself pre-
pared in the succeeding winter for the Geological Society,
and in three conjoint papers written in concert with Mr.
LyelL But the results are to be measured not so much
by these published records of them as by their influence in
, finally clenching his geological bent, and fixing him in that
stratigraphical groove in which he had made his first essay
in the south of England, and in which, with but short and
not altogether successful deviations, he was to pursue his
geological career to the end.
^ The oonnterpart ilate he gave to the (Geological Society.
^ Professor Owen named this nniqiie specimen OcUeeynua OenmgenaiSf
and regarded it as belonging to " an extinct genus intermediate between
cania and viverra,^ — See Quart Joum. GtoL 8oe.y iiL (1847), p. 60 ; and
Palaontology, 2d edit., p. 412.
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156 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80K [isas-o.
The winter of 1828-9 was spent as usual in London.
The preparation of the five memoirs just referred to, as weU
as the business of the Secretaryship of the Gleological
Society, kept Murchison's hands full enough of work.^ " M.
Valenciennes," he notes, "was in London this winter and
helped me to describe the fossil fish of Seefeld, and I was
gathering knowledge from Stokes, Broderip, Wollaston,
Buckland, Greenough, Lindley, Curtis the entomologist,
Konig, Webster, and MantelL" He found time, however,
to do a little field-work now and then, for in visiting friends
in the country he came no longer simply as a sportsman.
Some of the notes of invitation of these years occur among
his papers, and show that his new zeal for stones furnished
muiy a point for a quiet joke at his expense, where the
writers, while referring half deprecatingly to the use which
they could wish to see him make of his gun, are at pains to
assure him that he need not want opportunities of wielding
his hammer.
With spring and the prospect of fresh work in the field
plans were vigorously sketched for a new campaign* Again
an attack on the structure of the Alps was decided upon,
but this time it was not to be single-handed. Professor
Sedgwick had agreed to share in the toil and glory of the
warfare, having determined to quit for a time his books at
Cambridge and his vacation rambles at home, and trust him-
self with his hypochondria to the rough fare of imfrequented
routes abroad. It was again Murchison's task to collect all
the information obtainable from papers or friends as to the
geology of the tracts to be visited.
i Among his oote-bookB there is one with detailed notes of a series of
leotores on the straotore of birds, which he attended daring the spring of
1829.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
18891] OOTTINQEK AND BLUMENBACH. 157
In June the two travelleis set out together, and travel-
ling rapidlj by Bonn, the volcanic tract of the Laacher See,
Coblenz, and Cassel, halted at (^ottingen to geologize.
There they chanced by a onrlous coincidence to stumble
upon their two Prussian Mends, von Oejmhausen and von
Dechen, with whom they had held the fierce argumentation
in a deluge of rain at Glencoe. *' I was just about to sally
out," Murchison writes to his wife, ''when little Oeynhausen
popped his nose into the room where S. and self were dress-
ing. In an instant we were in each other^s arms, and I
can assure you that he kissed me on each cheek at least a
score of times. And the Professor did not come off with a
short allowance. Think of our good luck I He with his
nouvdle marine, mother-in-law, and Dechen with his aposa
are hera The vivacious little Prussian discovered me by
the name wpon my hanvmer, as it hung out of the old stone-
bag in the cairiage-yard." Again, he records that at Got-
tingen " Our hero (Sedgwick specially rejoiced in him) was
old Professor Blumenbach, then eighty-six years of age, on
whom we called. He told us loads of amusing anecdotes.
Among his numerous skulls he showed me one of a High-
lander sent to him by Sir George Mackenzie, and he denied
that my countrymen had higher cheek-bones than other
people. We afterwards attended his lecture of the day on
inseotSy and were astonished at his versatile powers, his
extraordinary action, his fine deep voice, and impressive
countenance. Whether he rolled out hard words with all
the rapidity of a youth, or thumped his desk with all the
vivacity of a youth, or suddenly paused abruptly to explain
with a broad slow ' aber, aber,' before he finished by some
reservations, I looked at him as the most original of God's
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158 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK [i8».
works I had ever seen. As I had presented him in the morn-
ing with some of my fossil insects from Aix, he launched out
in illustration of these flies and bugs which had lived ^ vor
Menschen,' and then carried his pupils off to the British
Museum and our gigantic Scarabseus in granite. Drinking
tea with him in the evening, Blumenbach equally astonished
us by his extensive reading and wonderful memory, whether
he adverted to metaphysics and Bishop Berkeley, to Scottish
history and scenery and Walter Scott, or the vitrified forts
and Sir Greorge Mackenzie."^
Turning northward the two travellers made their way
through the Harz Mountains and thence by way of Halle to
Berlin. At that early time the older palsaozoic rocks were
all classed together under the uncouth title of " grauwacke,''
and among Murchison's notes reference is made to the ''in-
terminable grauwacke," which deprived so much of the
journey of geological interest Strange that before many
years passed away it was among such rocks that he earned
his chief title to scientific fame, and that they offered attrac-
tion enough to lead him hundreds of miles from home, and
to keep him busy over mountain and valley for months
together ! This very region of the Harz, as we shall find,
furnished, only ten years later, abundant interest and plenty
of hard work for the two fellow-labourers among these same
grauwacke masses. In the meanwhile, however, these rocks
seem to have had somewhat of a depressing effect upon
Murchison's spirits, so that the wit and sparkle of the Pro-
fessor were never more welcome.
The halt at Halle brought them in contact with a real
^ A brief biographical aketcb of tbia remarkable man wiU be foand in
▼oL iii of the Proeeedinga qf the Otologkal Society, p. 533.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
im] WITH SEDGWICK— EASTERN ALPS 1 59
living specimen of a staunch Wemerian in the person of
Professor Germar, who expounded the geology of the country
after the system of his master, no doubt to the infinite
delectation of the Cambridge Professor, who must have
looked upon the old theorist as an interesting relic of a
species of geologist that was gradually becoming extinct
But they succeeded in picking up a few scraps of informa-
tion regarding some of the regions included in their pro-
gramme of travel, and their visit to Berlin was similarly
successful
Southward the journey lay by Dresden through Bohemia
to Vienna and the confines of Hungary, and thence by the
caves of Adelsberg to Trieste, "a hot hole, although it has some
luxuries in it — good ice and water-melons that would make
any man ill except Sedgwick," From that point, which was
the limit of their journey, the travellers bent their steps
homeward again through the Caxinthian Alp&f, the Tyrol, and
the Salzkammergut, striking westward into Switzerland by
the Lake of Constance, and descending the Bhine to Stras-
bourg, whence they found their way across France, so as to
reach England once more in the end of October.
Some of the pleasantest days of this tour were those in
which the travellers enjoyed the society of that remarkable
man, the Archduke John, among his mountain retreats in
Carinthia. " Our chief object in coming to Gastein," Mur-
chison writes, " was to wait upon the most scientific Prince
in Europe, the Archduke John, and he received us with cor-
diality and frankness. We dined at the rural taile-d'hSte,
at which the landlord presided, carved, and could boast
with pride that his ancestors had kept the inn for 350 years.
At this board, besides the Archduke, we had imperial minis-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
160 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [iw.
ters and generals, Prussian nobles, as well as professors and
geologists. After dinner we set out to ascend, in a ehar d,
lane, with the Archduke and his chamberlain, to the upper
cascades at Naasfeld. We passed the village of Bockstein,
where the gold ore is washed, and thence viewed the snowy
range of the Ankogel, to the summit of which the Arch-
duke had ascended, viz., 10,000 feet high, and seven hours'
good walk above the highest ch&let. We reached the upper
fall at sunset, and were then in the region of summer-
ch&lets, and surrounded by snowy peaks and glaciers, the
boundary between Carinthia and the Salzburg region.
''The Archduke was a capital cicerone, and talked
familiarly with every one we met. One of these was a
rough Carinthian packman, whose broad lingo amused us,
and reminded me of Goldsmith's line —
* Or onward where the rude CarinthiAn boor ;'
though I do not think that Oliver, for the sake of rhyme,
had any right to add —
' Against the honaeless stranger shuts his door.'
Nor would the Archduke allow that they were a bad set of
feUows, though very inferior to his Styrians and Tyrolese.
All the miners were 'hail-fellow ' with the Prince — *a with
perfectly good manners, but with no mauvaise Jumte.
"On our homeward trip on foot we had 2k petit sou/per of
fresh trout, which the Archduke had ordered for us in the
village of Bockstein, and in approaching the cabaret several
peasant girls ran out with their little nosegays, and to kiss
his hand ; whilst he of course put the flowers into his broad-
brimmed Styrian hat. As we walked down the valley in a
fine starlight night we had much enlivening chat, and we
soon perceived how honest a liberal the Prince was. He
Digitized by VjOOQIC
m.] THE ARCHDUKE JOHN IN CARINTHIA. 161
laughed at all the old stiffness and prejudice of the Austrian
court, to the dress of which his Styrian jacket, black leather
shorts, and long green worsted stockings presented a marked
contrast. He is a first-rate chamois-hunter, and kills about
forty bucks annually. ... He talked with delight of
everything in his dear Stjrria, — ^the clean inns, honest inn-
keepers, and pretty waiting-maids. He specially abused all
men-waiters, who had found their way to Gratz, and whom
he stigmatized as * des hommes de deux maitres ' — i.e, as
waiters and ' agens de la haute police.'
"Next morning we were at the door of the Archduke by
appointment at 7. It was opened by a blufif Styrian jager,
who beckoned us into the curate's small sitting-room, then
the only residence of his Imperial Highness, whom we found
on his knees, his hob-nailed boots taken ofT, and busily at
work laying out on the floor the Austrian trigonometrical
map of the surrounding Alps for our inspection. Showing
us all the passes, he gave us many good instructions.''
The scientific fruits of this expedition have long been
before the world. They were given to the Geological Society
in four successive papers during the succeeding winter and
spring. Such rapid work among the broken and contorted
rocks of a complicated geological region could not but con-
tain many errors. Yet it must remain as a striking example
of keen and quick observation, and of often happy, though
not always accurate, generalization. In addition to their re-
searches on the structure of the Austrian Alps, the travellers
were struck by two classes of facts which could not but
arrest the notice of men whose geological types had hitherto
been mainly English. In the first place, they found thick
beds of good black coal, masses of millstone, oolite, and
VOL. I. L
Digitized by VjOOQIC
162 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80K. [i889.
other hard rocks, to be not older than some of the soft
tertiary sands and clays at home. Well might Murchison
write — " Away went all our old notions of mineral terms
applied to geological formations as any indications of their
age." In the next place, they were again and again arrested,
and as it were appalled, by the formidable ravines and chasms
which bear witness to the enormous yearly waste of the Alps.
At one part of the course of the Fella they noticed that a
single night of heavy rain had buried the roadway under a
vast pile of rubbish swept down from the mountain-sides.
"As there are countless such torrents rushing down into the
Tagliamento and its tributaries, which is one of the six chief
rivers that flow into the Adriatic between Trieste and Venice,
we can well imagine how that sea must be encroached
upon, and at what a rate the sides and gorges of the Alps are
wearing away."
In another respect the tour had not been without its
fruits. It brought the two EngUsh geologists into direct
personal relation with the geologists of Germany, from whom
they received much kind attention and assistance. A ground-
work was thus laid for much pleasant and friendly inter-
course in later years. In passing through France too they
formed or renewed acquaintance with several brethren of the
hammer in that country, notably with M. £lie de Beau-
mont, whom they met at Boulogne, and from whom, then in
the early enthusiasm of his pentagonal theory, they received
details regarding the order in which he supposed the moun-
tains of the globe had been elevated— details, however,
which their own work among the Alps would hardly
support
The winter months of 1829-30 were spent in London,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1829-30.] THE EASTERN ALPS REVISITED. 163
where the duties of the Secretaryship of the Geological
Society, the preparation of his memoirs on the recent Con-
tinental tour, and the ordinary but increasing social
exigencies of his position, kept Murchison's hands fuller
than ever of work, though he still found now and then an
opportunity of escaping to the country to visit a friend and
have a few days' shooting. Indeed, it would seem from a
letter addressed to him in March that the old fox-hunting
Adam was not yet wholly cast out of him.
Nevertheless when summer had brought back sunshine
and flowers to the Alpine valleys, ho determined to revisit
them.
On the appearance of the abstracts of their papers on the
Austrian and Bavarian Alps in the Proceedings of the
Geological Society, the views which Sedgwick and Murchi-
son had put forth were combated in British and foreign
journals, notably by Dr. Ami Bou& Before the publication
of their completed memoirs, the two fellow-labourers saw
clearly that to meet the objections which had been urged, it
would be necessary for one or both of them to revisit a few
of their sections, and to examine some of the new localities
which had been cited as adverse to their views. Murchison
gladly undertook this congenial task. Accordingly, early in
June he started with his wife, primarily for the purpose of
clearing up these difficulties, but also to see a little more of
German scenery and society as well as German geology and
geologists.
The tour lasted until the beginning of October, and em-
braced, besides the old ground, some parts of Europe which
he had not yet seen since he had taken to scientific pursuits.
Crossing to Ostend, and proceeding by Antwerp to Brussels
Digitized by VjOOQIC
164 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK [vao.
and Namur, where he ''was enraptured with Omalius
d'Halloy ;" li^ge, where young Dumont, just heginning his
career, lent the traveller his services ; Cologne and Bonn —
Murchison sped up the Rhine without any halt for geological
exploration. At that time he still ** despised the old slaty
rocks/* though before another year was over he was to begin
the forging of that chain which kept him to them for the
rest of his life. '' I was then keen on one scent only, viz.,
greensands, chalk, and tertiary,** and it was to study these
rocks yet more fully that he had again set out for the eastern
Alpa
Instead, however, of striking at once into the mountains,
the travellers made a detour through Bavaria, passing by
Aschaffenburg, Bamberg, Bayreuth, and Batisbon, to Vienna.
Every museum on the way was examined, and notes were
made of its contents in so far as they might throw light upon
the secondary rocks of the Alps and surrounding regions.
Every local geologist too seems to have been ferreted out
and pressed into service. At Bamberg, by good chance, a
name of more than local celebrity caught Murchison's eye
in the visitors* book at the inn. "I instantly rushed to
the museum,** he writes, " where I introduced myself to the
great geologist to whom Humboldt and all Germany bowed
— ^Leopold von Buch. We had at once a most interesting
colloquy on dolomitization and many of the recent discoveries.
The little vivacious man was then quite en tSte with his
monograph of Ammonites. Though turned of sixty, he had
only of late begun to study oiganic remains, and at once he
was endeavouring to generalize and group these animals by
their suturea I perceived at once how with all his great
qualities, he was irascible if any contemporaiy criticised him,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1890.] TALK WITH METTERNICH. 165
and he was then in a particular rage about Buckland's
having omitted to state that the bear-cavems of Muggendorf
and Gailenreuth were in pure dolomite ! He had just under-
gone a severe penance, owing to his obstinacy in never
taking a guide. He was lost in a forest on a stormy night,
and passed the hours of darkness under a tree, with no protec-
tion but an umbreUa which he then always carried. As he
got old, however, he threw even that aside, and braved wet
and cold in a plain black suit, and without any change of
garmenta"^
At Vienna, besides museums, picture-galleries, and geolo-
gists, Murchison saw a good deal of " distinguished society,"
for which to the end he had a special fondness. He renewed
his acquaintance with the Archduke John, dined with Lord
Cowley, ambassador at the Austrian Court, and had an oppor-
tunity of holding converse with Mettemich. He has pre-
served a record of part of the conversation at the ambas-
sadoi^s table. The talk had drifted into geology, and a lady
present — the same who had been the heroine in the incident
at dinner in Messina (flrvU; p. 53)— asked across the table a
question about science and the Mosaic record. " I naturally
had some difficulty in getting out of the dilemma, when
Mettemich, taking up the cudgels, gave them to my surprise
a capital lecture, and quite to the purpose. On going into
the drawing-room after dinner, and on sitting down on the
sofa to converse with the great diplomatist who had over-
thrown Napoleon, I soon learnt how and where he obtained
^ It was Dot until further experience of Ck>ntinental geology and
geologirts that Murchison conceived that great respect for Leopold von
Buch which he used often to express in his later years, adding at the
same time a cordial recognition of what he conceived to be his own obli-
gations to the influence of the German geologist.
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166 SIR RODERICK MURCUISON. [isso.
his geological knowledge. ' You will not believe me (said
he) when I tell you that I love science more than politics.
In my early youth I took honours in scientific studies, and
intended to give up my life to such pursuits, and become a
Docteur-is-Arts et Sciences. But the French Revolution
startled all the old Austrian families, and my father insisted
on it that as I had a name to sustain, I must, for the good of
my country and the honour of my family, betake myself to
public life. So I was sent as an attach^ to the embassy at
Paris. There, in the intervals of business, and when not
occupied in the study of the doings and character of
Napoleon, I was always an attendant at Cuvier's lectures.
The words of that great master have never been forgotten,
and hence my repetition of them, when I supported you at
table, and showed to my diplomatic friends the great
iisefulTiess of your science, for that is the only mode of ap-
proaching them'
" In his conversation he showed that he had read and
thought much on this subject, and particularly on the
application of geology to the development of the mineral
wealth of Austria. He endeavoured to make me believe
that he was all in favour of a scientific meeting in Vienna
next year, following those of Hamburg, etc., which had
already taken place. He expressed his ardent hope that
the people would become more scientific, and hoped that I
would publish some work upon their country, and stir them
up a little.
"When I told the Archduke John afterwards of this
conversation of Mettemich's, he said it was all fudge, and
merely intended to blind me !"
Breaking away at last from these attractions in the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1830.] WORK m THE EASTERN ALPS, 167
capital, Murchison betook himself to the serious work which
had been the main object of the journey. He had written
to Sedgwick that in order to prove their points he would,
if possible, ** riddle these Alps in all directions" — a resolu-
tion which he now proceeded to put in practica Accom-
panied by Professor Paul Partsch, an active geologist of
Vienna, he made several minor excursions in the neigh-
bourhood, and then, striking through the Leitha Gebirge
as far as Gratz, turned back westwards into the Alps.^
The wonderful little tertiary basins enclosed among the
older rocks of Carinthia, and sometimes furnishing thick
masses of lignite, first detained him. But the real hard
work lay among the mountains of the Salzkammergut and
Styria, the object being to clear up the relations of the
supposed tertiary strata of Gosau and the structure of the
secondary rocks of that part of Austria. In the state of
the science at the time, it was no wonder that Murchison,
though making out some new points in the structure of the
mountains, still missed the meaning of the curious and
puzzling assemblage of fossils at Gosau. Several weeks
of very hard work were spent in those regions, with the
result of confirming some medn parts of the conjoint survey
of the previous year, and of showing the need to modify
others. From Ischl, in the midst of the rambling, he wrote
to Sedgwick : — " 0, what would I give that our sketch of
the Alps was not out! I could make it so much more
perfect in details and sections. . . . All these points neces-
sarily involve important alterations in our sections, which I
^ Some ezcelleat observations were made during this time on the age
of the older rocks of Carinthia. They have been recently referred to by
M. de Koninok in his '* Becherches sor les Animauz fossiles," 2de Partie,
187% p. 2 {Sur les Fosdles Cofrhw^ftres de Bkiberg).
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168 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80K [vm.
hope have not been began. After a great deal of hard work
I have relieved my mind from a world of anxiety, and am
now resting and thankful, and taking a vapour salt bath or
two, enjoying right worshipful high Vienna society, who
are all stewing themselves in salt hera I am at same
time working out the details of the upper beds (upper grits
and marlstones of the Alpen-kalk), which by a charming
accident I have got within half a mile here."
About three weeks later the same correspondent received
a further detailed narrative of geological exploits in a letter
dated from Sonthofen, and beginning thus : — " Here I am>
sticking to my scent like a true fox-hound. Since I wrote
to you from IscU I have done some marvellous good work.
I made out a fine range of the Gk)sau beds near that placa
... At Hallein I found Y. lill all anxiety to see me. . . .
The moment I twigged certain secondary black fossils like
lias (in his den near the river), and ascertained that the
section was not above a six hours' excursion, the post-wagen
was ordered, and off we travelled. ... I soon made a most
clear and instructive section, with lias shells and sufficient
fossils to make out the case. . . . How I did pant and fag
on the north side of Untersberg, for which I had glorious
hot weather. I made four parallel transverse sections. I
think I have the whole thing now most clear: it is cer-
tainly a capital key."
"I set out with a heavy heart to cross 120 miles of
Bavarian pebbles, and exactly 100 back to Augsburg, in
order that I, Rod. I. M., should heal my pricking conscience
and that of my dear ' heilige freund' Adam Sedgwick in re
'Sonthofen.' ... I flatter myself I get to understand the
valley, but with devilish ado and many perplexities — ^nay^
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1830.] NUREMBERG. 169
more than I ever encountered in my geological career. My
throw off occasioned a hearty malediction upon Herren
Sedgwick and Murchison, who as they drove up to Sont-
hofen last year passed through a certain archway leading
into that valley, with a rock close to them which they never
hammered. This I found to be true genuine old greensand.
. . . But when I came to go along the south flanks of the
Grinten, and ascend to the iron mines, all my precognosced
-Mends seemed to be sent topsy-turvy. What inversions
and contortions ! . . . I left no gorge nor any mountain
peak unexamined where I thought examination necessary."
Quitting at last these puzzling rocks on the flanks of
the Alps, he turned homeward by Munich, Nuremberg,
Gotha, and Gottingen. At Nuremberg he notes in his
journal " a change of scene : fossils and rocks were forgotten
for a day or two." Curiously enough, however, in the next
sentence he writes — *' A picture of Luther reminded me of
Buckland in his jolliest moments, while the pensive and
reflective Melanchthon is well represented in England by
Heniy Warburton." In Gotha he " passed an evening with
the most remarkable man of the place. Von Hoff, whose
works on physical geography and geology proyed afterwards
of such good service to LyelL"
On the 1st October Mr. and Mrs. Murchison set sail
from Botterdam for London. And thus ended one of the
pleasantest of the continental rambles which they had yet
undertaken. They had accomplished the definite object
which had given point and aim to the journey, and had
besides seen much new country and made many new
acquaintancea The tour was, moreover, the last of this
early foreign series. The next nine years were to be em-
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170 SIR RODERICK MURGHISON. [i830-3i.
ployed at home in laying the foundations of that Silurian
system by which the name of Murchison will be chiefly
remembered in the history of geology.
Before we turn to that point of the narrative, the work
of the winter of 1830-31 remains to be very briefly noticed.
During the preceding three years Murchison had filled many
note-books with innumerable memoranda of sections, fossil
collections, excerpts from published descriptions and verbal
information, all bearing upon the geology of the secondary
rocks of Germany. The long and elaborate memoir of
Sedgwick and himself on the eastern Alps, still in the press,
would, when published, contain all the main4)oints of their
work ; but many details i-emained which it seemed desirable
to publish, especially in so far as they might bear upon
English geology. To carry out this idea, and verify some
parts of the larger memoir, he went to Paris to compare a
collection of fossils from (Jermany, and partly, as he con-
fessed, " to frequent the society of scientific friends." With
Alexander von Humboldt, who happened to be there at the
time, he made acquaintance, and got from him much infor-
mation regarding some of the geological aspects of the great
geographer's travels.
How the foreign materials were produced at the Geo-
logical Society may be partly gathered from the subjoined
letter to his friend Sir Philip Egerton (28th January 1831) : —
" I am quite vexed that I should fire oflT all my Alpine
crackers without your hearing the report of one. I finish
on Wednesday next, when the whole of the meeting-room
will be hung with sectional tapestry of the manufacture of
Lonsdale^ and Co., magnified from my smaller designs. If,
1 The worthy Curator of the Society's collections.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
183L] PAPERS AT QEOLOOICAL SOCIETY, 171
therefore, you have any intention of being in town for the
meeting of Parliament, being Friday, perhaps you can
accelerate your movements (particularly as it freezes hard),
and be with us ; otherwise you will miss a golden oppor-
timity of learning how much deposit took place between the
periods of our English chalk and London clay, and through-
out such extensive regions that I verily believe our case
in Western Europe will prove to be the exception and not
the rule. Besides this, I will warm you with basaltic erup-
tions which, though they only show the tips of their noses,
have heaved up mountains of gneiss and granite against the
greensand series, setting it, and the tertiary strata above it,
all on end.
'' I was out of town for a fortnight, shooting at Charles
Lefevre's, and at Up Park about the Christmas time, since
when I have been working like a slave, previous to quitting
office — ^not with disgrace, however, as my friends are going
to vote me into the President's chair, in which case I shall
request you to be one of my councillors — a post well befit-
ting so grave a senator. Our anniversary, when all the
jollification and election take place, is the 18th February —
so you may bow to the Queen in the morning, and to me at
night."
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CHAPTER X.
THE INYASION OF GRAUWACKE.
Fob five years the Secretary of the (Jeological Society
had worked energetically for the Society's behoof, catering
for papers, arranging the reading and publication of them,
and preparing, either alone or in conjunction with the
Woodwardian Professor of Cambridge or Mr. Lyell, some
able memoirs on structural geology. He had earned a claim
to the Society's gratitude, which was acknowledged this
winter (February 1831) by his election to the dignity of
President The chair had been previously filled by Sedg-
wick, who, on quitting it, concluded his address with these
words : — " Mine has been indeed but an interrupted ser-
vice ; but I resign it to one of whose powers you have had
long experience, who can give them to you undivided, and
whose hands are in no respect less ready than my own."
The ofl&ce is held for two years. How it was filled by
MurcMson will be told in the next chapter. We have now
arrived at the great turning-point of his scientific life, and*
must look at it with some care, that its bearings may be
clearly seen not only on his own career, but on the history
of geology.
Up to this time, his work in the field had lain almost
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1831.] THE TRANSITION ROCKS. 173
wholly among Secondary rocks, whether in this country or
abroad, insomuch that, as we have seen, the rocks of older date
seemed to him to wear a dry, forbidding aspect, no matter
where they might present themselves. But before the close
of the first session of his Presidency at the Geological Society
he had determined to look these old rocks steadily in the
face, and see what after all might be their meaning and
history. Every year brought fresh and often apparently con-
tradictory facts to light about them. They evidently deserved
to be studied, and would probably reward any adventurous
spirit who chose resolutely to grapple with their problems.
Murchison, at the instigation of Buckland and other friends,
made up his mind to try.
The labours which have now to be traced as they went
on year by year, have a far wider interest than merely their
relation to the life and work of the man by whom they
were conducted. They unquestionably established a notable
epoch in the progress of geology. They added a new chap-
ter to geological history. They have been of infinite service
in helping the interpretation of what are called the palseo-
zoic rocks in every quarter of the world. To gain an ade-
quate notion of what they were and how they came to
acquire the importance now justly ascribed to them, we may
cast our eyes first of all, and very rapidly, over the know-
ledge, or rather the ignorance, which existed in this part of
geology before the date of Murchison's researchea
Over the centre and south of England the great series
of rocks now embraced under the term " Secondary" have
undergone comparatively little disturbance from those sub-
terranean movements which have in other regions heaved up
these same rocks into some of the loftiest mountain-chains
Digitized by VjOOQIC
174 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [issi.
upon the surface of the globe. They lie one upon the other
with almost the regularity of the shelves in a library.
Their story, therefore, when once the key to decipher it had
been given, was not diflScult to read. The genius of William
Smith had supplied that key, and thus the investigation of
the Secondary rocks had made such enormous strides during
the previous fifteen or twenty years, that it seemed as if
little more could be done in that branch of geology, save to
elaborate details. Starting from the types of the undis-
turbed formations of England, men endeavoured by their
means to reduce into order the complicated structure of such
regions as the Alps. Among those who successfully essayed
such a task, Murchison had taken an honourable place
But down below these Secondary rocks, and underneath
the Carboniferous and Old Red Sandstone deposits, the suc-
cession of which had been made out by William Smith, there
lay others, so hardened, squeezed, and broken as seemingly
to defy all attempts to classify them by the same minute and
detailed method. Such rocks stretched over most of Wales, of
Devon and Cornwall, of the Lake Country, and of the uplands
of the south of Scotland. They covered wide spaces on the
Continent, as for instance in Scemdinavia, Ehineland, and
Bohemia It was known that they must be enormously thick.
From year to year an increasing number of the remains of
corals, crinoids, shells, and other organisms was reported
from them. Evidently, therefore, they did not all date from
a time anterior to the introduction of life upon the eartL
Many were the names given to this vast and hetero-
geneous series of rocka That proposed by Werner had met
with the widest acceptance, viz.. Transition — ^a name which
implied the theory that these rocks had been formed at a
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(
1831.] HISTORY OF TRANSITION ROCKS 173
period of the world's history transitional between a; time
when rocks were laid down all over the globe by chemical
precipitation from a hot ocean, and a time when conditions
more like those at present in force permitted of the exist-
ence of living creatures upon the earth.
Another appellation which had been very generally applied
to these old rocks was "grauwacke" — an uncouth word origin-
ally used by the Harz miners for a special kind of rock in
ChARACTKBISTIC FOflAILS FROM THB QrAUWACKK (LlAHDEILO FlAOB).
1-10. TrQobites. 1. Asaphiu tyraniras. S. Ogygia BucblL & O. PortlockiL 4. Stygina
If urchisoniK. 6. Agnoetus IfaccoyU. 0. Trinuclena flmbriatoB. 7. T. LloydiL & T. con-
centricoa. 9. Calymene brevicapitata. 10. C. dupUcata. 10*. Beyrlchla complicata. 11. Orap-
tolithos BeckiL 12. O. tenuis. 13. DidymograpBUs If urchisonii. 14. DiplograpBos tere-
tiosciiliis. 16. Orthia alata. 16. O. striatala. 17. Siphonotreta micula. 1& Lingula
attenuata. 19. L. granolata. 20. L. RamaayL 2L Theca reveraa. 22. If onticulipoia fayidoaa.
the Transition series, and gradually adopted as a convenient
name for a great part of the most ancient stratified masses.
But though often used as if it signified a particular division
of geological time, grauwacke was really the name of a par-
ticular rock, and hence wherever that rock occurred, the
name might be legitimately given to it, without reference to
respective age, or under the mistaken impression that all
grauwacke was of the same general geological date.
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176 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK [\m.
Under such vaguely applied names, rocks of vastly dififer-
ent ages and characters were incongruously grouped together.
Hence they presented so many contradictions and difficulties
that geologists on the whole avoided them as much as possible.
Murchison only reflected the common dislike of them when
he hurried through the Bhine provinces to get away from
what he called the *' interminable grauwacke/' Writers of
text-books were sorely puzzled how to marshal the few
discordant facts which were already known on the subject
Fanciful theory and mere trim mineralogical distinctions
often supplied the place of geological knowledge.^
^ No better illuatration oonld be obtained of the state of this part of
geological scienoe at the time than the fact that the Principles qf Geo-
logy of Lyell, while devoting about 300 pages to the Tertiary deposits,
dismissed all fossiliferoos rooks older than those above the coal-measures
in twelve lines. — (Principles, vol. iii, published in the spring of 1833, and
dedicated to Murchisoo.) The account there given of these rocks does
not pretend to be more than a reference, but it may be quoted here as a
curious commentary on the state of ignorance whidi prevailed at the time
regarding the Pa]»ozotc rocks : —
'* 6. CarborU/erous Cfroup, comprising the coal measures, the mountain lime-
stone, the old red sandstone, the transition limestone, the coarse slates and slaty
sandstones caUed graywacke by some writers, and other assodaied rocks,
''The mountain and transition limestones of the English geologists
contain many of the same species of shells in common, and we shall there-
fore refer them for the present to the same great period ; and consequently
the coal, which alternates in some districts with mountain limestone, and
the old red sandstone, which intervenes between the mountain and tran*
sition limestones, wiU be considered as belonging to the same period.
The coal-bearing strata are characterized by several hundred species of
plants, which serve very distinctly to mark the vegetation of part of this
era. Some of the rocks, termed graywacke in Germany, are connected by
their fossils with the mountain limestone."
The third edition of a popular English geological text-book — Bake-
well's Introduction to Geology — appeared in the year 1828, and contained
the following table of the rocks now referred to : —
** Tbaksition Clasb (Conformable).
'* 1. Slate, including flinty slate and other varieties.
2. Grey waoke and greywacke slate, passing into old red sandstone.
3. Transition limestone. Mountain limestone."
In the third edition of the excellent Geological Manual of the late Sir
Digitized by VjOOQIC
183L] HISTORY OF TRANSITION ROCKS. 177
When we consider the extremely perplexing character
of the geology of many of the districts where these old
rocks occur, we cannot wonder that they should have
continued to be a stumbling-block in the progress of the
science. The key furnished by William Smith for the
secondary rocks might not have been found for many years
later, if these strata had lain less regularly in England
than they do. To men who came fresh from such undis-
turbed deposits to the contorted, fractured, and hardened
older rocks, it must have seemed well-nigh a hopeless task
to reduce the apparent chaos to order. Professor Sedgwick,
Henry 0e 1* Beche, all the foMiHferoas rocks ander the old red sandstone
are thrown into the *' Grauwacke Gronp,*' which is described as ** a large
stratified mass of arenaceous and slaty rocks, intermingled with patches
of limestone, which are often continnona for considerable distances. The
arenaceous and slate-beds, considered generally, bear evident marks of
mechanical origin, but that of the included limestones may be more ques-
tionable." The foasiliferous character of the group is insisted on, and 126
genera and 547 species of fossils are enumerated from the grauwacke rocks
of this and foreign countries. When, however, we look into these fossil
lists, we find that a large number of species belong to rocks which are
now placed on the horijson of the old red sandstone or Devonian system,
and that others have been inserted which should have been placed on the
still higher horizon of the carboniferous limestone. The confusion of the
lists is only a faithful reflex of the utter confusion in which the strati-
graphy of the rocks themselves still lay.
Even as late as the year 1832, after Sedgwick had published his views
as to the structure of the transition rocks of the Cumberland district, and
after Murchison had made knosm the distinct order of succession in the
upper portions of these rocks around the Welsh border, the able and weU-
informed Oonybeare could report to the British Association but a meagre
statement of the scanty knowledge then obtained on tins part of British
gedogy, and is found gravely discussing the '' need of a term less barbar-
ous than grauwacke-slate, which would conveniently denominate the
characteristic rock of this era. Might not dasmoschist (from the Greek
icXa<r/ia) be conveniently adopted ? It would afford a term well contrasted
to mica-schist, the chiuracteristio rock of the primitive group.''— {BrU.
A$$oe, ReportSf voL i p. 382.
On the Continent the ignorance was quite as dense as here, although,
appearing under the guise of hard names and neatly arranged tables, it
VOL. L M
Digitized by VjOOQIC
178 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [issi.
indeed, nine years before the time at which we are arrived,
viz., as far back as 1822, had began to grapple with the
rocks of his Cumbrian mountains, and, in spite of their
broken and contorted character, was slowly imravelling
their structure. But no amount of labour or skill in that
region could possibly connect the history of the Transition
rocks with that of the younger strata by which they are
covered; for a great gap occurs there in the geological
record, which is thus rendered as imperfect as a historical
narrative would be if several important chapters were torn
out of it and destroyed* A similar hiatus had been so fre-
quently observed elsewhere that the notion had become
general that the so-called " Transition '* rocks belonged to
a totally different and distinct order of things, and that they
had been fractured and upheaved before any of the Second-
ary formations were laid down upon them.
Any attempts which had been made to subdivide the
Transition series, and to connect those of one country with
those of another, had been based hitherto wholly on the
might have paased for exact knowledge. Thus the JSUmena de 06olog%e
of J. d'Omalios d'Halloy, offered the subjoined table to its readers as
showing the most advanced views in the year 1S31 : —
/ Terrain honfller,
I Calcarenx [monntain limestone^ 30
Snp^rienr, < species of fossils given].
( Qnartxo-schisteux [9 species].
( Calcareox [7 species].
Inf^enr, < Qoartzo-schisteox [old red sand-
\ stone, 1 species].
Schisteux.
Quartzeux.
Terrain ardoisier, ^ [This series includes the granwacke. Fossils
rare and indistinct, belong chiefly to
trilobites, spirifers, and encrinites.]
t
Terrain anthraxif^,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1831.} HISTORY OF TRANSITION ROCKS 179
mineralogical characters of the strata. But these characters,
as is now well known, aflford no suflScient test of geological
age and position, the grauwackes and shales of one age
being often in that respect undistinguishable from those of
another. Besides, even when used in reference to one
continuous series of rocks, though often most convenient
and useful, they are liable to constant and rapid changes.
They could not, therefore, be safely relied upon for a sound
and generally applicable classification, such as had been
established by means of fossil evidence among the overljdng
formations.
And yet the transition rocks were far &om being desti-
tute of fossils.^ These were to be had sometimes in great
abundance. They seemed to be in the main of peculiar
species, not found in the overlying strata. Hence it was
evident that before any use could be made of the fossils
in the way of grouping the rocks into divisions, the very
order of succession among these rocks had first to be settled.
But no one who had hith^to addressed himself to this task
had been able to establish as a basis for palseontological
work any broad and serviceable divisions among the old
grauwacke, or to connect it satisfactorily with the formations
^ Their fosailiferoafl character had been noted by Werner. In England
fossilB had been found by William Smith and Mr. Phillips in the upper-
most Transition rocks of Westmoreland. These specimens were shown to
Sedgwick in 1822, and slightly described by him in his paper on Craven
in 1827. The fossiliferous character of some parts of the Transition
series of Shropshire and Wales was likewise well known, though no one
seems to have set about determining what the fossils were, and how far
they agreed with or differed from those of the overlying formations.
'* Practically, " to quote from some notes obligingly furnished by Pro-
fessor Phillips, " before the summer of 1831 the whole field of the ancient
rocks and fossils of Wales was unexplored ; but then arose two men —
pa/r nobUe, of all men fitted for the purpose — Sedgwick and Murchison —
and simultaneously set to work to cultivate what had been left a desert."
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180 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOX. [wi.
which succeeded it in time. So broken indeed and altered
was it that if any one had proposed to apply to this puzzling
old transition or grauwacke series the same tests by which
the secondary and tertiary deposits had been brought into
such clear and intelligible order^ he would have raised a
smile among his geological Mends. Murchison knew of
course no more about these ancient formations than his
neighbours, but he now resolved with his characteristic
energy and enthusiasm to see what he could make of them.
At the end of the session of the Geological Society he
started from Bryanston Square with his ''wife and maid,
two good grey nags and a little carriage, saddles being
strapped behind for occasional equestrian use." Some
preliminary skirmishing took place among the secondary
and tertiary rocks by the way, for he could not resist the
sight of a quarry or pit, being resolved to miss nothing on
the road. The route lay by Oxford, where his old friend
and preceptor Buckland received him, and led him over
some of the ground where he had formerly received his
earliest lessons in field geology. But it was not merely to
renew old acquaintance that a halt was made at Oxford.
" I took notes from Dr. Buckland " he writes, " of all that
he knew of the slaty rocks, or grauwacke as it was then
called, which succeeded to the Old Bed Sandstone, and the
relations of which I was determined to begin to unravel ;
and I recollect that he then told me that he thought I
would find a good illustration of the succession or passage
on the banks of the Wye east of Builth."
This laudable custom of collecting all available infor-
mation, published or unpublished, regarding any piece of
geology, before himself attacking it, has already been fire-
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1831.] BEGINS WORK IN THIS GRAUWACKE. 181
quently apparent in the preceding narrative. It came
forward prominently enough at the commencement of this
new and momentous enterprise. He had already made
notes in London, while Dr. Buckland furnished him with
new and valuable suggestions. Quitting Oxford, he jour-
neyed westward to visit the Rev. W. D. Conybeare, a name
honourable in the history of geology as that of one of the
joint authors of the Geology of England and WdU$.
From this kind and experienced friend he notes that he
obtamed " some good advice.'* Other local observers, who,
though not aspiring to be called geologists, had been in the
habit of looking at the rocks and fossils of their neigh-
bourhood, gave him invaluable assistance. Among these
helpers may be mentioned Dr. Dugard of Shrewsbury, Mr.
Anstice of Madely, Dr. Lloyd of Ludlow, Mr. Davies of
Llandovery, and above all the Eev. T. T. Lewis of Aymestry.
From the first these friends enlisted readily in his service,
and some of them continued their unremitting toil and kind-
ness for years. To Mr. Lewis especially he was indebted
for much of his knowledge of the rocks and fossils of the
upper Silurian series, for that gentleman had made out the
arrangement of the rocks in his district, and recognised their
characteristic fossils before Murchison had begun to study
the subject
On first taking the field this year Murchison had spent
some time in a desultory series of visits to country friends
and rambles after Secondary strata. His companion during
a portion of the time was Mr. Phillips, who has given the
following notes of the journey : — " In the cool spring-time of
1831 we met by appointment at Staneford, and explored
together the district of CoUyweston and Eetton. It was
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182 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [issi.
a pleasant walk along the high grounds overlooking the
WiUand ; cigars contending with endless discussions on the
rocks around us^ and on their relationships to Alpine lime-
stones which had begun to be recognised. We made care-
ful measures of the slaty and sandy beds full of shells which
here overlie the ironstone and the lias, and intended to give
a joint memoir as to their position and numerous fossil con-
tents. CoUyweston has been again and again visited by me,
but not I think by Murchison, who in that year had his
attention drawn to a larger field of work, and b^an to dream
of Siluria."
The dream was soon to become a reality. For, crossing at
last to Swansea, Murchison struck northwards into the hills
beyond the coal-field, and there began to invade the Tran-
sition rocks of South Wales. These hills consist of the^
Oarboniferous Limestone rising out from under the Goal
measures and resting upon thick masses of Old Bed Sand-
stone, so that when one crosses the high ground and
descends into the lower regions towards the north, one comes
upon lower and lower strata cropping up fix)m beneath the
Old Bed Sandstone, and spreading for many a league over
the imdulating country to right and left and in front. It
was near the town of Llandeilo that Murchison first broke
into these older rocks with the purpose of making them dis-
close their true place and order in the geological series.
" Travelling from Brecon to Builth by the Herefordshire
road, the goi^e in which the Wye flows first developed
what I had not till then seen. Low terrace-shaped ridges
of grey rock dipping slightly to the south-east appeared on
the opposite bank of the Wye, and seemed to rise out quite
conformably from beneath the Old Bed of Herefordshire.
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1831.] BREAKS GROUND IN SOUTH WALES. 183
Boating across the river at Cavansham Ferry, I rushed up
to these ridges, and to my inexpressible joy found them
replete with transition fossils, afterwards identified with
those at Ludlow. Here then was a key, and if I could
only follow this out on the strike of the beds to the north-
east the case would be good."
To and fro through the Welsh and border counties he
worked his way as the rocks led him northwards over hill
and valley into the plains of Cheshire. The expedition was
Vale of the Towy, ftrom near LUndeila (Sketched by Mn. Murchisou )
far more successful than he had dreamed it could be, for, by
a happy accident, he had stumbled upon some of the few
natural sections where the order of the upper parts of the
transition rocks in Britain can be readily perceived, and
where their strata can be traced passing up into the over-
lying formations. No one could better appreciate the value
of this " find" than the fortunate geologist himself. " For
a first survey," he writes, " I had got the upper grauwacke,
so called, into my hands, for I had seen it in several situa-
tions far from each other all along the South Welsh fix)ntier.
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184 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [i83i.
and in Shropshire and Herefordshire, rising out gradually
and conformably from beneath the lowest member of the old
red sandstone. Moreover, I had ascertained that its different
beds were characterized by peculiar fossils. I had, therefore,
quite enough on hand to enable me to appear at the first
meeting of the British Association, which I had promised to
join at York in October, with a good broad announcement
of a new step in British geology."
His notes, however, show that he did not rush at once
from the grauwacke to the York assembly, but journeyed
so leisurely as to pay many visits to old north-country
friends, and to fill up long pages of jottings by the way on
the geology of the region between the hills of Wales and
the sea-coast of Durham. At last, the same " pair of greys"
which had carried the two travellers from London all through
the Welsh border, and the midland and northern counties,
deposited Mr. and Mrs. Murchison at the hospitable gates of
Bishopthorpe, where they remained as guests of the Arch-
bishop during the first meeting of the British Association.
Of that memorable meeting, so important an event in the
history of science in this country, Murchison has preserved
the following recollections : —
" FIKST MEETING OF THE BRITISH ASSOCUTION AT YORK,
27/A September to 3d Odober 1831.
" This fii-st gathering of men of science to give a more
systematic direction to their researches, to gather funds for
carrying out analyses and inquiries, to gain strength and
influence by union, and to make their voice tell in all those
public affairs in which science ought to tell, came about in
this wise : — Assemblies of * Naturfoi-scher* had been for two
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FIRST MEETING OF BRITISH ASSOCIATION. 183
years or more in existence in Grermany, having begun in
Hamburg. Thereon Sir D. Brewster wrote an article in
the Edinburgh Phdloscphieal Journal suggesting that such a
meeting should be tried in Britain. On this the Eev. Wil-
liam Vernon (afterwards Vernon Harcourt), the third son of
the Archbishop of York, and a Prebendary of York, not only
made the real beginning by proposing that we should meet
at York, but by engaging his father to act as a Patron, and
by inducing Earl Fitzwilliam to be the President, he gave at
once a locm standi and respectability to the project But
he did much more ; for he elaborated a constitution of that
which he considered might become a Parliament of Science,
such as Bacon had imagined, and was thus our lawgiver.
" The project thus ela'oorated having been transmitted
to me in London in the spring of 1831, when I was President
of the Geological Society, I at once eagerly supported it
Nay, more, I wrote and lithographed an appeal to all my
scientific friends, particularly the geologists, urging them to
join this new Association. But notwithstanding my energy,
the scheme was for the most ^Bxtpoohrpoohed, and, among my
own associates, I only induced Mr. Greenoilgh, Dr. Daubeny,
Sir Philip Egerton, and Mr. Yates, to follow suit John Phillips
of York, the nephew of William Smith, and the Curator of
the York Museum, had very much to do in the origin of
this concern, for he co-operated warmly with William Vernon,
and, when we got together at York, was the secretary and
factotum. He had previously corresponded with me in Lon-
don, and stimulated me with a ready-made prospectus. I may
say that it was the cheerful and engaging manners of young
Phillips that went far in cementing us ; and even then he
gave signs of the eminence to which he afterwards arose
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186 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N, [lasi.
in the numerous years in which he was the most efficient
assistant-general-secretary of the body, until when, as the
distinguished Eeader of Geology in the University of Oxford,
he presided over the British Association at Birmingham.
" When, however, we were congregated bom all parts, the
feebleness of the body scientific was too apparent From
London we had no strong men of other branches of science,
and I was but a young President of the geologists ; from
Cambridge no one, but apologies from Whewell, Sedgwick,^
and others ; from Oxford we had Daubeny only, with apo-
logies from Buckland and others. On the other hand, we
had the Provost of Trinity College, Dublin, Dr. Uoyd, Dr.
Dalton, from Manchester, and Sir David Brewster from
Edinburgh. Thus there was just a nucleus which, if well
managed, might roll on to be a large balL And admirably
was it conducted by William Vernon, for, after opening the
meeting in an earnest, solemn manner, the good Lord Fitz-
William handed over the whole control to Harcourt and
left us.
" On my own part I had plenty of matter wherewith to
keep my geological section alive, as, besides those I have
mentioned, we had a tower of strength in old William Smith,
the Father of English Geology, and then resident at Scar-
borough; James Forbes, Tom Allan the mineralogist, and
^ " Sedgwick indeed sent his apology through me, in a letter from Llan*
fyllin. It was his d&mi among the North Welsh rocks. ' Cracking the
rocks of Carnarvonshire for three weeks, and getting fond of the sport,*
he writes, ' I should be a traitor to quit my post now that I am keeping
watch among the mountains. It would be very delightful to mingle
among the philosophers and commence deipnosophist, but it would be
very bad philosophy in the long-run. You may teU Mr. W. Vernon
that keeping away is a great act of self-denial on my part, and that I am
in fact doing their work by staying away.' "
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FIRST MEETim OF BRITISH ASSOCIATION. 187
Johnston the chemist from Edinburgh, to say nothing of
Harry Witham of Lartington (now an author on fossil flora),
and others, including William Hutton of Newcastle-on-Tyne,
then strong upon his ' whin-silL' After all, however, we
were but a meagre squad to represent British science, and I
never felt humbler in my life than when Harcourt, in his
opening address, referred to me as representing London !
" Indeed, William Conybeare, afterwards Dean of Uan-
dafT, had quizzed us unmercifully, as well as W. Broderip
and Stokes, and other men of science. The first of these had
said, that if a central part of England were chosen for the
meeting, and the science of London and the south were to be
weighed against the science of the North, the meeting ought
to be held in the Zoological Gardens of the Event's Park !
It required, therefore, no little pluck to fight up against all
this opposition, and all I can claim credit for is, that I was a
hearty supporter of the scheme — ccrA^e que caAte}
"This first gathering was in short much like what takes
place at small Continental meetings — we had no regular
sections, but worked on harmoniously with our small force
in cumvio. The excellent Archbishop was of great social
use, and gave a dignity to the proceedings, whilst Lord Mor-
peth, then the young member for Yorkshire, incited us by
speeches as to our future. It was then and there resolved
that we were ever to be Provincials, Old Dalton insisted on
^ As an illustration of the kind of tannts amid which the Britiah Abso*
ciation was bom, the foUowing sentence may be quoted from a letter
written by J. G. Lookhart, editor of the Quarterly Beview, to Morchison
just before the meeting : — '' I presume you are going to the colt-show at
York. Don't make a fool of yourself among these twaddlers, who must, in
such strength of re-union (considering what happens in all their minor
associations), be enough to disturb the temper, if not brains, of the
(To^ttroroft, of which number is of course the P. G. S. I4."
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188 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [i83i.
thiB — saying that we should lose all the object of diffusing
knowledge if we ever met in the Metropolis.
" With all our efforts, however, we might never have suc-
ceeded had not my dear friend Dr. Daubeny boldly sug-
gested (and he had no authority whatever) that we should
hold our second meeting in the University of Oxford ! I It
was that second meeting which consolidated us, and enabled
us to take up a proper position. Then it was that, seeing
the thirig vxis going to succeed, the men of science of the metro-
polis and those of the imiversities joined us."
A letter written by Murchison from York, towards the
close of the meeting, to Dr. Whewell, gives a glimpse of the
enthusiasm with which some of the fellow-labourers worked
for the Association : —
" Before I entered into the * British Association ' which
the meeting at York has given rise to, I was very desirous
of weighing the men who were eventually to carry us through.
I was really very mainly induced to join it in consequence
of your letter to William Vernon, and I was quite decided
in so doing when I saw the calibre of the men he had
assembled, and the promises of support from those who
could not attend. . . . Brewster really astonished every one
with the brilliancy of his new lights, old Dalton, * atomic
Dalton,* reading his own memoirs, and repl3dng with
straightforward i)ertinacity to every objection in the highly
instructive conversations which followed each paper. . . .
I had no memoir ready myself, and did not intend to rob the
Geological Society of anything intended for them, but I
found that a poor and hard-working druggist of Preston,^
^ Mr. W. Oilbertaon (see BrU, As9oe, Rep., 1831-2, p. 82). The shells
referred to are in the museum of the Qeological Society.
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FIRST MEETING OF BRITISH ASSOCIATION 180
Lancashire, who had made some years a^ a very important
observation on the existence of shells of existing species in
the gravels and marls of Lancashii'e at 300 feet above the
sea, and at distances of fifteen and twenty miles from the
sea, was present I took the opportunity of turning lecturer,
and having visited those parts this summer, I brought out
my little druggist with all the ^clat he merited. This is
another practical exemplification of the good arising from such
a reunion. The Archbishop had all the party on one of the
days, and it would have gratified the liberality of Cambridge
to have seen old Quaker Dalton on his Grace's right hand.
Pray act cordially with us, and if Adam [Sedgwick], my great
master, and yourself will only go along with us, the third
meeting will unquestionably be at Cambridge. Eely on it,
the thing mvst progress, all the good men and true here
present are resolved to make it do sa"
Fresh from the field, Murchison had not had time to pre-
pare any important paper to inaugurate the birth of the new
Association. But besides bringing forward the finder of the
Lancashire shells, he took the opportunity of showing the
general nature and tendency of his recent work, by hanging
up the maps which he had used that summer in his tour, and
on which he had coloured ** the Transition Bocks, the Old
Bed Sandstone, and Carboniferous Limestone," etc., an ex-
hibition of interest to geologists, since it was the first which
gave promise that the uncertainty of the true relations of
the Transition rocks to the later formations was now at
length to be dispelled.
At the close of the meeting the "pair of greys," which
had done such good service already, were again in requisition
^ BriMi AisociaUon Beporta, voL i. p. 9L
Digitized by VjOOQIC
190 SIR RODERICK MURGHI80N. [issl
to transport the traveUers to the east coast. There, at
Scarborough and its neighbourhood, Murchison once more
availed himself of the ever ready co-operation of the illustrious
'* Father of English Geology," and renewed his acquaintance
with the rocks of that interesting coast line. In a letter
written at that time to Mr. Phillips, he reports the first
germ of a proposal which in its completed form did honour
to the men who made it, and to the Government which
carried it into execution. It was one of the earliest of a long
series of kind-hearted acts to meritorious but often poor men
of science — acts which, if they had not Murchison for their
originator, never failed to find in him an active and influential
supporter. We can picture him among these Yorkshire clifls,
with the kindly old man, who, though he had done more for
geology than any man then living, was spending the re-
mainder of his days in humble quiet at ScarborougL And
those who knew Murchison will recognise how well fitted
this sight was to touch him into active and considerate
benevolence,
" I have had a nice field-day with your uncle at Hack-
ness. What is your opinion, your real opinion, as to what
J or my Mends could really do for him (i.e, for his benefit ) ?
It would never do to bring him to town without something
sure and good was offered. If we could persuade the
Government to give him a little salary to be geological
colourer of the Ordnance Maps published — do you think I
ought to suggest this ? I ask this as a preliminaiy : it
would certainly be of national importance to have these well
done, and lodged in the Tower and GeoIogi(Sal Society."
This proposal, as we shall see, was not a mere matter
of form or of transient good- will. But before any further
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Voi„ I. To /ace page 100.
WILLIAM SMITH. LL.I>.
Frovi o VnitraU htj Fourmv.
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Digitized by VjOOQIC
1831.] SEDGWICK'S FIRST WORK IN WALES. 191
action could be taken, the writer of it had to find his way
bstck to London, This he did in the usual circuitous way
which a geologist chooses, travelling through Lincolnshire
and Norfolk in search of geological sections. While at
Norwich he received fix)in his friend Whewell a pressing
invitation to visit Cambridge on the homeward journey, and
as part of the attraction, was told that " You will find
Sedgwick fall to the teeth with Welsh porphyry and grau-
wacke, and shall hear the legend of his fight with some of
the old spirits of the mountains, who made a great resistance
to the process of being geologized — an operation for which
there is no name I believe in any of the dialects of the Gaelic ;
but you know best" It was a curious coincidence that the
two brother geologists should each independently have
broken ground in Wales in the same year.^ Sedgwick
unfortunately had begun the attack in a region of great
complication, Murchison, on the other hand, had been lucky
enough to begin in one of comparatively easy comprehension.
This accidental difference indirectly led the way to that sad
estrangement which remains to be told in future chapters.
This had been in many ways a busy and important year
^ The following ertract from a letter of Sedgwick's to Mnrcbison, 20ih
October 1831, gives ns an interesting glimpse into the state of the work
when the eager Woodwardian Professor began it in North Wales: —
'* The weather became so bad that I was driven out of Carnarvonshire
before I had qnite finished my work ; bnt» Gk>d willing, I hope to be in
North Wales next year before the expiration of the first week in May,
and with five months before me, I shaU perhaps be able to see my way
through the greater part of the Principality. If I live to finish the sur-
vey, I shall have terminated my seventh or eighth summer devoted exclu-
sively to the details of the old crusty rocks of the primary system. What
a horrible fraction of a geological life sacrificed to the most toilsome and
irksome investigations belonging to our science ! When I finished Cumber-
land I hoped some one else would have done North Wales, but I have
been disappointed. N^importe, I am now in for it, and must go on/'
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192 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK. [i8si.
in Murchison's career. He writes of it thus : — " In sum-
ming up what I saw and what I realized in the summer of
1831^ or in about four months of travellings I may say that
it was the most fruitful year of my life, for in it I laid the
foundation of my Silurian System. I was then thirty-nine
years old, and few could excel me in bodily and mental
activity. 'Omnia vincit labor' was my motto then, and I
have always stuck to it since."
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CHAPTER XL
THE OHAIB OF THE GEOLOGICAL SOOIETT, AND SOCIAL
LIFE m LONDON.
When once moie back at his post in London, it was one
of MuTQliison's fiist cares to prosecute farther the scheme
for doing honour to William SmitL How his plan pros-
pered is best told in his own words, as written at the time to
Mr. Phillips: — ^"Tou know all my heart's desire for our
good old father in geology. I propounded the same (as
expressed to you) to the Council of the Geological Society
at our first meeting in November, and I only waited for the
gathering of the men of of&ce to sound Lord Morpeth on the
feasibility of my plan, and» if approved of by him, then to
throw in a strong memorial to the Grovemmeni Judge of
my delight then, when I found that Lord Morpeth had
anticipated my wishes, and had already written to Lord
Lansdowne, arguing Smith's merits, and asking for a small
pension. This application I was asked to second, which I
have done by letter a few days ago to Lord Lans-
downe ; but in doing this I have deviated so &r from the
original request, as to point out to Lord L. that Mr.
Smith was stUl capable of doing the State good service. I
VOL. I. N
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194 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [issl
went into an expose of the whole thing, and proposed the
creation of a new appointment, with some such title as
'Geological Cdourer of the Ordnance Maps' — ^thereby
meeting all the objections and criticisms of the Humists
which might be directed against sinecure places or pensions,
but which could not hold good with respect to an office so
connected with the development of the mineral wealth of
the country as that which I have suggested. We shall see
what the Lords will do, and in the meantime we had better
say nothing of it to Smith."
They had not a long time to wait, for the Government
granted the venerable geologist a pension of £100 a year
without stipulating that he should colour any Ordnance
maps.^
His position as President of the Geological Society
required Murchison's presence in London during winter,
even if his enthusiasm for the science and devotion to the
Society had not been amply enough to insure his attendance.
He might well be proud of the choice which the Society had
made. Thirty years later a Mend of his referred to him at
one of the anniversaries of the Society as a man " bom to fill
chairs." During that busy interval he certainly merited
the description. But in 1831 he sat for the first time as a
leader among his scientific brethren, in the chair which had
been held by such men as Greenough, Macculloch, Buckland,
and Sedgwick. ^
It was always a great object with Murchison, as Presi-
dent, to get what he called " a good meeting," that is, one
with interesting papers attracting a full audience, and calling
^ For purtionlan of this mcident» lee Prof enor Fhillipa* interestiiig
Life of WilliMn Smith, p. 117.
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183L] PRESIDENT OF GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY. 195
out a brisk discussion. In his letters to friends in the
conntiy at this time the doings at the Society usually figuie
largely. For instance, writing to Dr. Whewell on the 17th
November he says : — " We had a capital meeting last night
1st, A memoir on the gigantic Plesio of Scarborough.
2d, Old Montlosier on Yesuvlus, wMch drew out a long
and lucid explanation from Necker de Saussure; Lyell,
Buckland, Fitton, Greenough, De la Beche, and others
being orators. Buckland filled up all the parts wanting in
the Plesio, and perfected a monster for those who in a
snowy November night were disposed to nightmare.''
Certainly in those days the meetings of the Geological
Society must have been among the most enjoyable gather-
ings in London. There was a freshness about the young
science, and men still fought about broad principles, intelli-
gible and interesting to most listeners. The inevitable days
of subdivision and detail had not yet come. ''Why not
contrive to be here on Wednesday?" writes the President
to one of his Council "Dine with us^ at the Crown
and Anchor, and attend our meeting, where we shall
have the rare union of old Adam of Cam, Buckland,
Conybeare, eta" Bare union indeed! The only paper
read at the meeting was by Sedgwick — one of those lumin-
ous efforts which by a few broad lines served to convey,
even to non-scientific hearers, a vivid notion of the geology
of a wide region, or of a great geological formatioa Em-
balmed in the Society's printed publications, the paper, as
we read it now, bears about as much resemblance to what
it must have been to those who heard it, as the dried leaves
in a herbarium do to the plant which tossed its blossoms in
^ i.e. The Geological Club, to be immediately referred to.
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196 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80K [wsi,
the mountain wind. The woids are there, but the fire and
humour with which they rang through that dingy room in
Somerset House have passed away.
In several of the learned Societies, and among them the
Geological, there had sprung up what were called " clubs ; **
these were gatherings of the more prominent members to
dine and talk, and thereafter to adjourn to the evening
meeting of the Society. Besides promoting good-fellowship
among the members, they gave opportunities for much
pleasant scientific gossip, and, what was one of their most
important functions, they kept up a strong nucleus for the
Society's ordinary meetings, to which, after a comfortable
dinner, the dub adjourned in a body. Murchison, at this
time, and to the end of his life, took a leading share in the
business, gustatory and other, of the Geological Club, which
was founded in 1824. In one of his letters he urges a Mend
to allow himself to be proposed for this club, " which we
endeavour to keep select, where you will always meet some
of the choicest spirits, and where you really always pick up
much geology in a quiet way.**
To preside at such meetings must have been one of the
pleasantest duties a scientific man of that day could per-
form. But over and above his ordinary work for the Society,
the position of President brought with it an accession of
other multifarious duties and engagements. Professor
Phillips recalls how '' men of science who visited London in
1831 were sure to be courteously met by the President of
the Geological Society, then residing in Bryanston Place,
profuse in hospitality and full of hearty zeal and kindly
sympathy for his brethren of the hammer, of whatever
country, which never left him."
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1803-31.] BATTLE IN THE ROYAL SOCIETY. 197
But besides these pleasant ways of using his influence,
there sometimes arose others where he was called on to
take part in less amicable intercourse. Thus^ one of the
most notable incidents in the scientific doings in London in
this year was a keen battle over the Chair of the Soyal
Society — a battle into which Murchison seems to have
thrown himself with all the ardour of his military youtL
He gives the following account of it : — " On the retirement
of Mr. Davies Gilbert from the chair, a certain clique in the
Society got up the notion that the Duke of Sussex would be
the best person we could fix upon. As soon as the plot got
wind, the indignation of all the real men of science knew no
bounds, and they resolved to start Herschel as an opponent
to the Eoyal Duka We subscribed our names to a public
protest ; about eighty or ninety names were appended, in-
cluding those of nearly all the notable and working men in
science. It was resolved to beat us^ and the greatest influ-
ence was used politicajly, royally, and socially to bring up
voters for the so-called royal cause. I became an active
canvasser for HerscheL
''At that time the Boyal Society was very differently
composed from what it now is. Any wealthy or well-known
person, any MJ?. or bank director, or East Indian nabob
who wished to have F.RS. added to his name, was sure to
obtain admittance, by canvassing and by being elected at
any ordinary meeting. The consequence was that over all
that class of our body the Soyal and Government influence
of the day was overpowering, and even Lord Holland, though
the gout was on him, was carried up into our meeting
room, where he had never been before, to vote for his royal
friend!
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198 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isao-si.
** I stood at the top of the stairs at Somerset House,
doing my best to catch a vote as any friend ascended. We
were beaten by 119 to 111. Many persons who had seen
our public declaration had felt so sure we should be victors
that they did not come up from the coimtry. But so it
was.
'' The election over, the good Duke found himself in a
dilemma. He wisely saw that he could not govern the
Society if he could not make up a better Council than he
came in with in 1830. He therefore resolved to choose his
advisers from among those who had most stoutly opposed
him, and who in feu^t mainly represented the science of the
body. Overtures were made to myself, and I deemed it to
be my duty to accept office under a Prince who could act
so liberally and kindly towards his opponents.**
The ground on which this latter step was justified may
best be gathered from the following letter : —
"^<wem6erl4, 1831.
" My deab Whewbll, — Oh for a quiet life ! I thought
like a simpleton that reform and cholera were enough to glut
one with horrors, and my poor and only consolation was
that I might absorb myself in science, and so fossilize my
mind and frame as to allow all those shafts to pass by
innocuoua Our campaign geological opened weU with an
excellent memoir by Dr. Christie. . . . The point of irrita-
tion is nothing iu our own good Society, but consists in the
formation of a new Council for the Eoyal, on which they
have placed my name as well as your own. I will begin
with the end, which is, that after much conflicting reasoning
with myself I have agreed to be on the Council, and I need
not add, that my determination was mainly influenced by
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1831.] EARLY DAYS OF ATHENjEUM CLUB. 199
finding we were to have a strong battery, in which I could
never disgrace myself in performing the part of a simple
bombardier. . . . You know as well as all my friends with
what zeal I opposed His Highness's election, but I am not
of that school who would cherish a rancorous and perpetual
hostility. ... I have got over all my other scruples, and
intend to go along with things as they are, and not to fight
against the stream and old time by joining B. and his cold
and comfortless crew. In taking this step I feel that I
shall be liable to the kind innuendos of some of my ultra
Mends, but my most intimate friend LyeU, who is the only
man in my confidence on the point, completely approves of
my conduct"
" In this way,** to return to the narrative, " the second
Council of the Duke of Sussex's administration was formed.
With his bonhomie, his ready access at all times when in
health, and his earnest desire to do what was best in the
interests of science, we who had been his opponents became
his best friends in the sequel There was also this advantage
in having him for our chief, that all scientific rivalry was at
an end.
" As an active member of the Athenseum Club (of which
I was one of the original 300), I had a finger in most things
which were stirring among men of letters, art, and science.
It was for these men that the club was set up, Davy, Croker,
and Beginald Heber being its real founders and earliest
trustees I must say that it was then a truly sociable and
agreeable society. Little home dinners of twelve or fourteen
were firequent, Heber or Davy often presiding, particularly
the former.'*
The Presidency of the Geological Society was employed
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200 SIR RODERICK MURGHISON. [i831-32l
by Murchison in a yeiy characteristic way, wherein he con-
tinued to distinguish himself up to the end of his life. He
made it the ground for gathering at his house, in a more
public and of&cial form than one could do in a private
capacity, assemblies in which scientific men miogled freely
with representatives from that non-scientific society of rank
and fashion to which he had always been so strongly
attached. To these gatherings Mrs. Murchison lent her
cordial help, giving them a charm which added much to
their popularity. We shall see in the records of later years
how marked this social habit became, and what an import-
ant bearing it had upon the position of science in the society
of his day.
One of the tasks of the President during his two years'
tenure of office, is to prepare an address for the Anniversary
of the Society in February. It had been customary to
devote that address to a general survey of the progress of
geology at home and abroad during the previous year — a
labour which in the infancy of the science was not very
arduous, and had proved to be in the highest degree useful
Murchison had now to undertake this task, perilous though
it might be for one who only eight short years before was
known merely for a keen sportsman, as ignorant of science
and as indifferent to its attractions as any other of the north-
country squires. Nevertheless he accepted the duty and
discharged it well His address, indeed, lacks the vigour,
originality, and eloquence of bis predecessor Sedgwick.^ He
contents himself with a sober outline of the work which had
been done by the Society, and other labourers in this country
^ Tet it had the advwitage of reyision by Sedgwick, one or two
effeotive touches beixig due to his pen.
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18a] L7ELL AND MACCULLOCH. 201
and abroad But he shows in eveiy page the enthusiasm
with which he now pursued geology, and gives us pleasant
glimpses of the zeal and good-fellowship which marked the
first generation of the members of the Geological Society.
His concluding sentence runs thus : — " Permit me to offer
you my heart-felt wishes for the continuance of your tri-
imiphant career, and to assure you that I consider myself
truly ennobled in having been placed, for a time, at the head
of a brotherhood united for purposes so great, and knit
together by such lofty and enduring sympathiea'' ^
As illustrative of the progress of Geology in Britain at
the time, it may be mentioned that in this address the Pre-
sident had an opportunity of noticing Sedgwick's labours
(already referred to) among the rocks of Cumberland and
Westmoreland, Trimmer^s discovery of marine shells on Mod
Tryfane in Wales, the appearance of Lindley and Button's
FoBsU Flora, of the second volume of Lyell's Princvples
of Geology, and of Macculloch's System of Geology, the
establishment of the British Association, and the great
increase in number and vigour of local scientific Societies.
To the thoughtful student of the history of science there is
something eminently suggestive in this conjunction of the
works of LyeU and MaccullocL The pages of the former
writer glowed with all the fervour of the newer school of
geology, which sprang out of the teachings of Button and
William SmitL The rocks were no longer treated as mere
mineral masses, but as documents from which the detailed
history of the earth and its inhabitants was to be compiled.
The remains of plants and animals now took the place of
importance which mineral species had formerly held, in so
^ Proe, OeoL 8oc, yoL i p. 886.
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202 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80K [i8»
mucli that they gradually monopolized to themselves the
term " fossil," which, in earlier days, had been given indiscri-
minately to every mineral substance taken out of the earth.
Appeals were made on every hand to living nature as a
guide to the changes of past ;time. Zoology and botany
became as essential to the geologists of this younger creed
as mineralogy and chemistry had been to their predecessors.
And thus in a few years, from being a mere subordinate
branch of mineralogical inquiry, accused, and not altogether
unjustly, of indulging more in crude speculation than in
sober observation and induction, geology had sprung into a
foremost place among the great divisions of natural science.
This rapid change could receive no fitter acknowledgment
than in the words of Herschel, who said that in the mag-
nitude and sublimity of the objects of which it treats,
geology ranks next to astronomy, and that at length it was
brought effectually within the list of the inductive sciences.
In the midst of this glow of fresh thought and of vigorous
and ever broadening research, Macculloch's System made
its appearance like the sullen protest of the last high-priest
of a supplanted religion. Few had earned a better claim
than this author to the respect of English geologists for hard,
shrewd, original work, carried on among some of the least
accessible tracts of the British islands, and described at times
with a vigour of pen which not many of his brethren of the
hammer could equal He might well have been content to
rest his reputation upon that early work. Owing perhaps
in large measure to bad health, acting upon a temperament
naturally sensitive, he seemed to regard Scotland and the
older rocks generally as a kind of geological preserve of his
own, over which, though he had for many years retired from
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Voi^ I, To fare page 202.
JOHN MACtl'LLCKH. M.D.
from the J^nfjmving oj the I'oi trait hy H. li. Faulkner.
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Digitized by VjOOQIC
1832.] MACCULLOCH^S SYSTEM OF OEOLOOY. 203
field-work, he could not brook that any one should wield a
hammer without some licence firom himself! Murchison and
Sedgwick had laid themselves open to his wrath by their
xmauthorized raid into his territory. He made no sign at
the time ; but a few years afterwards, viz., in 1831, he threw
this System at the heads of his rivals, and in the face of the
geological world. The book may be looked upon as almost
the last expiring effort of the old mineralogical school of
geology in Britain. In perasing it, the reader might suppose
himself to be in the midst of the literature of the end of the
previous centuiy. FossiL remains are ignored, together with
all the new lines of inquiry which they had opened, and the
rocks ai^e described according to their mineral characters,
precisely as if William Smith had never lived. And yet
the author assures the world that he had kq>t his manu-
script beside him for ten years, ''in the hope that some
better man would stand forward to represent geological
science as it is : but he grieves to say that, during that long
period, geology has scarcely received a valuable addition, and
not a single fandamental one.'' As President of the Geo-
logical Society, it was Murchison's duty to repel this state-
ment, and to point with just pride to the Transactions of the
Society as a monument of what had been done during those
ten eventful years.^
^ He does not ipeciany refer to Maoonllooli'i trefttanent of his own
work sod that of Sedgwick. Bat no one can read the SysUm without
encountering passages which evidently refer, in by no means a compli-
mentary tone, to the two feUow-labonrers among the Scottish Bed Sand-
stones. MaocnUoch's ill health and acrimony seemed to increase with his
years. In his last work« — a pamphlet to accompany his Geological Map
of ScoUand (1836),— published unfortunately after his sad and sudden
death, his sllusions became eyen more personal. (See, for example, the last
sentence on p. 94, where he refers to ** the very ignorant and hypothetical
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204 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [vssl
One of the time-honoured customs of the Geological
Society was then, and still is, to hold a dinner on the evening
of the anniversary ; so that, after the President has given an
exhaustive, and sometimes rather exhausting, address in the
afternoon, he takes the chair and makes after-dinner speeches
in the evening, surrounded with a goodly gathering of geolo-
gists and friends, who are of course all agreed ad to the great
importance of the Society, and the unabating interest of the
science which it cultivates. In performing this function
Murchison seems to have been so well satisfied with the
success of his first public geological dinner that he took
some trouble to get it reported in the London papers, and
even wrote to a friend in Inverness to secure a notice of it
in one of the northern journals !
" The summer of 1832," to quote from his journal, " was
begun with the Oxford meeting of the British Association,
and of this I need say nothing more than that, imder the
presidency of Buckland, the body was then licked into
shape, and divided into six sections. As the mass of the
great guns of the metropolis had now joined us, and also
Sedgwick, Whewell, and the best men of Cambridge, our
success was assured. Altogether it was (thanks to its pro-
poser, Daubeny) a most auspicious meeting, — the more so
as it terminated with an invitation, for the next year, from
Cambridge, with my dear colleague Adam Sedgwick as
persons. ") He speaks of his own laboais as completing the geological in-
vestigation of Scotland, there being nothing further to be done save what
could, after a few weeks of experience, "be effected by a snryeyor's
dradge, or a Scottish qnarrTman " (p. 17). So far as Sedgwick and Mnr-
chison were concerned, there was no cause for this hostility ; for, though
they had differed from him on some points, they had never ignored the
great services rendered to geology by Maccolloch.
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1831] BEGINS TO MAP THE WELSH ROCKS. 205
** The lemainder of the summer was entirely devoted to
researches amidst my new loves, the ' Transition Bocks/ not
only by revisiting the old ground to complete my sections,
but by greatly extending my survey. I had now determined
to set to and map out the region. But, alas ! the Odnance
maps of a large portion of the coimtry I had determined to
examine were only in the course of construction, or not
begun. But I got hold of every scrap I could firom the
Map Office, then directed by Colby, or firom my fiiend
Major Bobe at the Tower, and so I set to work in the terra
incognita to which I afterwards (1835) applied the name of
Siluria."
If it be true, as Bacon asserted, that "^ writing maketh an
exact man," it is no less true that mapping makes an exact
geologist Without this kind of training, it is not easy to
grasp accurately the details of geological structure, and
hence the literature of the science is sadly overloaded with
papers and books which, had their authors enjoyed this pre-
liminary discipline, would either not have been written, or
would at least have been more worthy of perusal Murchi-
son wisely resolved not to trust merely to eye and memory,
but to record what he saw as accurately as he could upon
maps. And there can be no doubt that by so doing he gave
his work a precision and harmony which it could never have
otherwise possessed, and that, even though still falling
into some errors, he was enabled to get a firmer hold
of the structure of the country which he had resolved to
master than he could have obtained in any other way.
For, to make his maps complete, he was driven to look
into all manner of out-of-the-way nooks and comers, with
which, but for that necessity, he might have been little
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206 SIR RODERICK MUBCHI80K [mL
likely to make acquaintance. It often happens that in such
half-hidden places — the course of a mountain torrent, the
bottom of a tree-shaded ravine, the gully cut by the frosts
and rains of centuries from the face of a lonely hillside —
lies the key to the geological structure of the neighbourhood.
In pursuit of his quest, therefore, the geologist is driven to
double back to and fro over tracts never trodden perhaps by
the ordinary tourist, but is many a time amply recompensed
by the unexpected insight which this circuitous journeying
gives him into the less obtrusive beauties of the landscape.
Though Murchison had already learnt something of the
devious nature of a field-geologisf s path through a country,
he had never before tried anything on so detailed and ex-
tensive a scale. At one time he might have been seen
measuring sections in Shropshire; soon thereafter, led on
by the rocks, he had got away west into Pembroke.
Thence, following up his game, he tracked it through the
wilds of Montgomery and Badnor, or south to the hills
overlooking the great Welsh coal-field, and back again into
the English borders. For weeks and months together this
work went on. Much of the ground proved difficult to
unravel, and cost its explorer many a restless night, for he
had now got his head so full of grauwacke, transition rocks,
and Old Bed Sandstone, that he seems to have been able to
think or dream of nothing else. From his notes, however,
we may conjecture that though his days were given to hard
work out of doors, the evenings were often pleasantly spent
under the hospitable roof of the country gentlemen of the
region, some of them old friends, who still enjoyed a quiet
joke over the enthusiasm with which he now himted " grau-
wacke " instead of foxes.
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1832.] JUBILANT OVER HIS EARLY SUCCESSES. 207
November, with the opening of the session of the Qeolo-
gical Society, brought him back to London and the usnal
routine of town life in winter. To Sir Philip Egerton he
writes immediately after his return, full of excitement over
the summer campaign: — "I have done a fine stroke of
work. I have coloured up all the Ordnance Maps I could
procure, describing a zone of about twenty or thirty miles in
breadth, £com the Wrekin and right bankjDf the Severn to
k^i
FowiLB ntoM THE Orauwacks (Cabadoc Rocks).
1. Calymene BlmnenbachiL 2. Homalonotos bisnlcatiiB. 8. Fhacope tnmcato-'CaadAtni.
4. Tentaonlites AngUcns. 6. Lingala cmmena (Llandoveiy). & Orthis testndinazia. 7. O.
vespertllio. & Strophomena tenuistriata. 0. 8. grandis. 10. Bellerophon bOobataa. IL R
nodoras. IS. Ortlionotanaaata. 18. Nebulipora lena. lit Diplognpsua pxlstia. 16. Orapto-
lithiu pilodon.
the mouth of the Towey, and I hope to show you four or
five distinct natural fossiliferous formations of great thick-
ness in our neglected 'grauwacke,' in which I have got
abundance of fossils — many quite new; indeed, I have
fished some out of the genuine Old Eed Sandstone which
overlies all my system. I had a most delightful tour, de-
spite certain premonitory choleritic attacks, which disabled
me occasionally. My wife met me in Somersetshire,
through which county and Wiltshire and Hants we re-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
208 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [isaa.
turned, making visits to old friends till we reached onr
connty near Petersfield, where in the month of October I
laid low about sixty brace of cock-pheasants. We reached
town on the 6th of this month to open the geological
campaign.
'' Mantell has discovered great part of a nov. spec, of large
Saurian in the Weald, which he supposes to be his dear
Iguanodon, of which you know he never as yet found more
tiian the head and teeth. His paper thereon is to be read
next meeting (December 5th), after which I am going down
to a battue at Up Park."
From the mass of letters which he allowed to accumulate
&om month to month, some idea can be gathered of the
multifarious and distracting calls which were daily made
upon his time and attention during the years of his Pre-
sidency. The undisturbed early hours before breakfiEtst are
given up to the elaboration of his notes. The morning post
brings perhaps, among other epistles, a wail firom some
coimtry geologist, because he has heard no tidings of an
elaborate memoir which he had sent up to the President,
in the confident belief that it would at once exercise the
collective wisdom of the Society. In the forenoon he
has to attend a meeting of committee for securing Abbots-
ford to Sir Walter^s family ; or of another committee
which is busy organizing a subscription for a suitable
memorial to Cuvier. Then he goes by appointment to
meet Chantrey, who had made a design for the WoUaston
medaL In the afternoon he may have purposed to get
some of his Welsh notes into order; but a foreign geologist,
with letters of introduction from some of his friendly Con-
tinental brethren of the hammer, appears at his door, whom.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1833.] LONDON WORK AND COUNTRY PASTIME. 209
after giving up an hour or two to him, he finally takes to
Somerset House and consigns to the courtesy of the re-
spected Curatory Xonsdale. In the evening, unless, as often
happened, he had engaged himself to dine out, or to hold a
geological reception at home, he could attend to his corre-
spondence, or, if that had been already accomplished, he
might snatch a few hours to prepare an account of his
labours in the field for the Society, his wife at his side pre-
paring his drawings and otherwise aiding in the work.
And yet, despite these numerous avocations, time and
opportunity were both found for a flight now and then firom
the bustle of London to the field-sports and friendly inter-
course of a country house. Witness the following account of
himself, written on 22d January 1833 : — ^' I met my wife on
my return from Cheltenham, and we paid a visit of a week
to Lord Milton, in Northamptonshire, and I must say that I
never enjoyed a winter week more. He gave me a mount
on a capital thoroughbred, son of Cervantes, but the day was
unlucky. It was a woodland fox found in the Bedford pur-
lieus, which took us right into the heart of old ^'s preserves,
where the Earl and his Christmas friends were dropping the
long-tails. You must excuse me if I say that the ex-Minister
in his threadbare tartan, patch over his eyes, hat twisted up
behind, on a cock-tailed pony, with large gambadoes, dis-
tressed as he was by our irruption, looked a perfect pattern
for H. B. to realize the ' ould constitution' of Dan O'ConnelL
But the distress of the day was the death of a poor whipper-
in. I am now writing seven or eight hours per diem, nay,
even ten and twelve, to make up for lost time, and to enable
me to take the last week of the best shooting in England at
Up Park. So you see I am living a very sporting life for a
V0L.L
Digitized by VjOOQIC
210 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isas.
P.G.S. I am delighted you are coming to the anniversaiy.
Greenongh is to be my successor.**
The continuous writing to which he refers was required
for the preparation of the presidential address at the forth-
coming anniversary in February. In looking back over the
pages of that forgotten document, we meet with notices of
several landmarks in geology, showing in what an eventful
period of the history of his favourite science the life of the
writer had been cast Among the names of those whose
recent deaths he had to chronicle, and whose deeds it was
his duty to record, were Sir James HaU and Cuvier — the
one standing at the head of physical geology, and linking
that generation with the early glories of the Huttonian
school ; the other acknowledged to be the great master of
that newer school of palaeontology which had so greatly
altered the aspect and the aims of geological inquiry. Among
the topics of then recent discussion, he alludes to the erratic
boulders (* foundlings,** as the Swiss have called them),
which, strewn over the plains of Europe, were beginning to
attract attention as evidence of some flood from the North —
the first beginning of the deciphering of that wonderful
chronicle which has laid before us at last the story of the
Ice Age in Europe. Among the annoimcements of new
work he gives a sketch of his own labours among the old
rocks of the West, and alludes to those of Sedgwick. But
his most important item on this head was the reference to
the foundation of the Geological Survey, that great national
undertaking, over which, some two-and-twenty years later,
he was himself destined to preside, and in charge of which
he spent almost the last sixteen yeara of his life. Very
modest was its earliest equipment Mr. Henry de la Beche
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1888-38.] LOCKHART AND BULWER 211
had been appointed, in connexion with the Ordnance Survey,
^ to afi&x geological colours to the maps of Devonshire, and
portions of Somerset, Dorset, and ComwalL" To the tact
of that sagacious man the Survey owed its existence, and to
his eneigy and skiU it is indebted for its preseht importance,
and the great work which it has so far accomplished.
Writing late in life, and looking back upon this early
part of his scientific career in London, Murchison penned
the following reminiscences : — '' During all these years, viz.,
1826-38, 1 inhabited No. 3 Bryanston Place, and, though I
had but a small establishment, I saw veiy agreeable society,
for, independent of my scientific friends, I was visited by
men in public life, as well as by the lovers of science, letters,
and the art& With Hallam I was in constant intercourse,
and also with Lockhart, and with both of these very difiTerent
men I kept up an intimacy to their death. When Lockhart
came to London eveiy one was afraid of the author of Petals
Letters to his Kinsfolk, the more so as the Whigs were rabid
against him ; but with intunacy his reserve wore off, and I
declare that, amongst my friends, I never knew one who
was more lively, amusing, and confiding in dual converse,
nor one whose loss I more sincerely mourned. If he was a
good hater he was assuredly a warm friend.
^ Shortly after Bulwer came to London I asked him to
dine, but did not tell him whom he was to meet He had
just issued his PaiU Clifford, and, meeting for the first time
at my table, Lockhart, who had cut it up unmercifully, the
young author took huff (for he was then a proud young
dandy), and thought I had done so to annoy him. It re-
quired all Chantrey's good-humour to keep the party to-
gether.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
212 SIR RODERICK MURjCHISON. [iw^»
^ ^ Sydney Smith, Lord Dudley, Conyetsatiofi Shaaip, L(»fd
Morpeth, the Parkes (now Wensleydales), L(»d lAnsdowne,
even the sensible and aged Duehess Countess of 6utlier-
land, did not disdain our small parties. Lady Davy rarely
came, for she was too exclusiye.
*" Among the foremost of our intimates was the all-aGeom«»
pushed, sensible, modest, and retiring Mrs. ScmiervlUe, who
witii her jolly good husband the Doctor, then the Physieiaa
of Chelsea Hospital, was constantly with ua We also often
Tisited them at Chelsea, and met there Mackintoeb, and other
leading characters, — ^Mackintosh in particular being a great
admirer of the lady philosopher. It was our pleasure to
bring this remarkable woman and WoUaston together, imd
to gather firom them crumbs of the profound knowledge
which they unostentatiously let falL^ When we called on
Mrs. S. in the morning, and found her finishing off one of
her fine landscapes, or instructing her daughters in music,
we necessarily admired her feminine qualities, whilst we
knew she was up to every line of La Place's 'M^canique
Celeste.'
^With these notables let me associate my geological
friends Charles Stokes and William Broderip. The former,
a stockbroker, was one of the most remarkable men I ever
knew, albeit he has left little behind him. Never out
of England, and constantly occupied in the city, he gave
up his evenings, nights, and momiugs to otiier avocations,
was versed in all languages and a proficient in most branches
of Natural History. My little sketch of him in my anid-
versary address to the Geological Society gives but an im-
^ Mrs. SbmerviUe, in her ohanniiig memoirs, giyes some pftrtioolAn of
her interoonrse with WoUaatoiL See p. 128.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ia»-38.] REMINISCENCES GF LOKDOHr LIFE. 2W
.^xfeet idea of his yer^tile powers. He 'was tBe bosom
-friend of Chantrey^ who also was his constant companion
witii ns or «t the scnlptoi^s own honse^ Then there i^as
dear old Migor Gierke^ the editor of the United Service
Journal^ my old Marlow chum, and last, not leasts 13i<eodor6
Hdoky who first met Sydney Smith at my honse,^ and has
often» when very far gone, extemporized his songs to us over
the piano. But these things were my passing ainusiemeixt,
and I was pondering all the time upon tnming eyer3rtbi]^
into a geological use.
^ Opposite men of all parties were intermingled with my
scientific cronies, Sedgwick, Buckland, Greenough,Iltton, and
others. These parties were really intellectual ; but now that
I. live in a big house in Belgrave Square my grand dinners
are dull hocrors^-and it is only when I cbjel manage to have
a small one that I enjoy seeing company.
''I meddled little in public matters or politics, though
iny feeling was Conservative, and I was one of those who
was^ I confess, alarmed at the great sweep abotit to be
effected by the Seform BilL So I attended the debates
both in Lords and Commons, and was present at the whcde
of the last day's debate in the latter, and wMch did not dose
tilLfiveAJf.
^^To xescdnemy recollections of my earliest scientific
friends in London :. L must specially dwdl on the great
botax^tBdbert Brown, who was chiefly to be met with at the
Sunday break&sts of Charles Stokes in Gray's Ian, and whj&
^ It i« 0aid j(Tiinbe'8 lAoea of the Hum&urida, vol iL pw 276) that Sydi^y
3mith and Theodore JQook met at table only twice : first at the house of
Lady Stepney, where " they were both delighthil and mutually d^ghted ; "
and seeondly, soon after, on the occasion mentioned in the text, where they
met in a somewhat larger party, bat where poor Hook's failing became
only too risible. ^
Digitized by VjOOQIC
214 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [iw-38.
provoked my impatient temper because he never would
pronounce upon the genus — scarcely even upon the class —
of a fossil plant. Profound in his acquaintance with living
plants, he knew too well the fine limits and subtle distinc-
tions to be observed ; these being generally obliterated, and
the fructification being rarely visible, he paused and looked
again and again, and came to no conclusion. lindley, on
the other hand, being of a less cautious temperament, often
dashed off an opinion, and therefore gratified geologists.
Bobert Brown, though a quiet sedate man, was fall of diy
humour, and told many a good story to his intimate friends,
among whom I was delighted to be reckoned tiU the day of
his death. I was one of the mourners at his burial at
Kensal Oreen, when this illustrious man had but a few old
friends to pay the last honours. How different was it but
the day before yesterday, when the popular novelist was
interred in the same place ! Doubtless, so good a master of
English, so smart a satirist, so warm-hearted a friend, and
so attractive a writer as Thackeray, merited all the eulogy
which has been poured out on his character by all the press.
But if a man of science dies, however eminent he be, a
passing commendation is all he obtains, and it is doubtful
whether the compilers of such works as the Anmud Register
will ever think it right to allude to the death of the first
botanist of our era. Nor can a different verdict be expected
from the masses or the fashionable world. Every one knows
ComhUl and Ptmdi, Pendennis or Vanity Fair, or some one
of Thackeray's good novels, and so that author obtained a
good share of the public applause which the nation accorded
to Walter Scott, whilst the Princeps Batanicorum of Europe
dies unknown by English scribes.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1888-38.] LOUia PHILIPPE. 216
''Among mj intimates and correspondents of the first
years of my geological career I must not omit to mention
Gkorge William Featherstonhangh. He has played a bustling
and useful part through life, has published on a vast variety
of subjects, and was a most lively, agreeable companion. He
was the first to introduce our modem ideas of geology into
the United States, which he did with great energy in the
year 1831. Afterwards he induced General Jackson, then
the President^ to appoint him 'State (geologist,' in which
capacity he made two extensive tours, illustrating them with
long sections. ... In the French revolution of 1848, when
Louis Philippe fled from Paris and was hid in a cottage with
Queen Am^lie on the south bank of the Seine opposite to
Havre, it was Featherstonhaugh, then British consul at Havre,
who managed to get the family of ' Mr. Smith ' over by night,
and popped them into a British steam-packet. Even in this
act the consul was the geologist, for he passed off the ex-King
as his unde William Smith, the father of English geology ! *'
Digitized by VjOOQIC
CHAPTEE XIL
THE SILUKIAN SYSTEM.
During the tennre of his Presidency of the Geological
Society Mxirchison had greatly raised his scientific position
in the country, both in regard to power of original geological
work, and to that practical turn of mind and suavity of
manner which fit a man to play a prominent and useful
part among his fellow-mea He hardly as yet realized the
real importance of the field-work which he had been carry-
ing on among the Transition rocks. Very slowly as the
years passed away did he come to see how fall of signi-
ficance were the sections which he had brought to light
along the Welsh border&
A few weeks after resigning the Chair of the Society he
gave the first detailed account of what he had been doing
during the two previous years among the " transition rocks"
and " grauwacke " on the border-land of England and Wales.
The brief abstract of the paper to the Geological Society in
which these details are communicated contains the fixst
Digitized by VjOOQIC
m-^CLASSIFICAriONOF TRANSITION ROCKS. TLT
imperfect and partly erroneous sketch of a classification,
which has since become so familiar to geologists.^
Beleased from work in town^ Murchison sped back to his
rocks on the Welsh frontier, and passed the summer of 183S
in constant travel and work among the^ '' rummaging the
country," as he said, in search of fossils and evidences of the
order of sequence among the formationa Again his wife*
became a partner in the tramp, and while he made more
distant forays, employed her pencil on some of the sketches
which afterwards appeared to such good purpose in the
" Silurian System.** On one occasion the monotony of " the
perpetual cracking of stones " was pleasantly interrupted by
the appearance at the inn of that ''famous talker, Richard
Sharp," who, in taking leave of the enthusiastic geologist,
remarked to him, "Well, my good fellow, I feel assured that
you will end in becoming Lord Grauwacka"
While increasing his knowledge of the rocks, Murchison
managed also to augment his acquaintance with the in-
habitants of the country. Not always, however, to the
advantage of his scientific pursuits, for, as he used to say
later in life, "Good living in an aristocratical mansion is
hostile to geological research. I must honestly declare that
1 The Babdivisions may be quoted here :— >
** L Upper Ludlow Bock — ^Equivalent, Granwacke Sandstone of
Tortworth, etc.
IL Wenhck Limestone — EqaivalentB, Dudley limectone. Transition
limestone, etc
m. Loufer LvtdUno Boek — ^Equivalent, ' Die earth.*
IV. SheOy i^otuitftone^— Equivalent, ?
y. Black TrilobUe Flagstone^ «<e.— Equivalent, ?
VI. Bed Conglomerate, Sandstone, and Slaty Schist."
Proc OeoL Soe,, vol i. p. 475.
In this table the Aymestoy and Wenlock Limestones are confounded,
and hence the Lower Ludlow Bock is placed under instead of above tlie
Wenlock Limestone.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
218 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [issa.
in general I have done twice as much work when quarteied
.in an inn/* It was in such a mansion, however, that a
project took its rise during this autumn, which came in the
end to make one of the landmarks of his life, and at the
same time an epoch in the literature of geology. His friend
Mr. Frankland Lewis had suggested that he should not
be content with the limited circle of readers which perused
View of the Bxeidden Hills near Welsh Pool, from Fowls Castle.
(Sketched by Mi& Morchison.)
the ponderous Transactions of the Geological Society, but
should appeal to a wider public, and elaborate into a separate
volume his researches among the old rocks of the English
and Welsh border-land. This idea found a warm supporter
in Lord Clive, at Powis Castle, where Murchison agreed
to undertake the task. Before the middle of November
Lord Clive announced to him a list of eighty subscribers to
the proposed work.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1838.] CUTTING UP OF 'OLD ORAUWACKE! 219
^ I have truly done much work this summer/' he writes
to Mr. Phillips, '' having been seventeen weeks hammering,
with only one day of intermission. But you gallop when
you suppose I am ready for the press. Absorbed in your
own great undertaking,^ you have not had time to think of
the magnitude of mine. Imprimis, My inquiries range over
seven counties, and they dive into the arcana of formations
of which no precursor has written one line I Hence each
succeeding year in which I propagate the principles of our
craft, and enlist raw recruits in provinces where the sound
of the word geology was never heard before, I find on
revisiting my fields of battle that my aides-de-camp have
collected facts, and facts alter preconceived notions.''
And so the work went on horn the Vale of Severn to
Sb David's. The proposed big book could not possibly make
its appearance until after far more complete and detailed
examination* Meanwhile each summer's labours were duly
communicated in abstract to the Greological Society. From
his friends there, such as Greenough, Lonsdale, and Phillips,
came letters of encouragement which brought the enthusi-
astic geologist back to London with renewed eneigy for
work. The campaign of the autumn of 1833 ended by
the despatch of five boxes full of specimens &om the old
''grauwacke " of the west to the apartments of the Geologi-
cal Society. Lonsdale, ever catering for the wants of the
Society, looked forward with his quiet glee to ever so many
evenings of amusement and instruction to be had out of these
boxes and the notes by which they were to be illustrated.
We can picture him in his little den at Somerset House
surrounded with books, papers, and specimens, rubbing his
^ The Geology qf TorhMre, now a claasio work in British geology.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
220 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [im
hands as he wrote to Murchison — '* Poor old Grauwacke will
be cut up piecemeal" Poor old Grauwacke indeed ! With
the Woodwardian Professor hewing at him in Cumberland
and North Wales, and the President of the Geological
Society hacking at him all along the Welsh border, his
doom was evidoitly sealed.
"Perhaps no one better than Lotisdale comprehended
the true meaning of the work which Murchison undertook*
Gertainly no one gave more effectual assistance in the often
delicate task of clearing up in the calmness of the closet the
difficulties which frequently misled the eager enthusiast in
the field. Murchison was never slow in acknowledging his
great obligation to his patient and right-judging friend."^
Mr. Lonsdale's anticipations were fully realized during
that session of 1833-4. From the note-books of the previous
summ^ Murchison furnished four separate papers on differ-
ent parts of the geology of the districts among which he had
been at work. One of these contained the first published
table of the Transition rocks of England and Wales, in which
they were parcelled out into distinct fDrmations, each char-
acterized by a peculiar assemblage of organic remains. The
arrangement showed a considerable elaboration and im-
provement upon that of the previous year.*
^ From M8. reminiscenoefl kindly oootribnted by Professor PhiUipo.
, ' The subdiviBions now adopted were as foUows : —
Old Red Sandstone.
i Upper Ludlow rock.*
ft / I. Ludlow rocks, . . I * '- ja-j__
1 \
p |t j IL WenlockandDudley rocks, j
5'g'iin. Horderly and MayhiU
u^\ rocks,
^ rIV. BuUth and LbndeUo flags.
P V V. Longmynd andGwastaden
rocks.
Aymestry and Sedgeley limestone.
Lower Lndlow rock.
Wenl<>ck and Dudley limestone.
Wenlock and Dudley shale.
Flags. ^
Sandstone grits and limestones.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ifflil REPORTS TO OEOLOOICAL SOCIETY. 221
A characteristic account of those papers and their recep^
tion was given by their author in a letter to Sir Philip
i;gerton (3d February 1834) : — ^'* Though I say it who should
not, I must fairly tell you that the season [at the Geological
Society] has not yet produced much, except the communica-
tions I have made. I judge as much £rom our Mend Lons-
dale's estimate as &om my own, perhaps perverted, vision.
... By accident I had a very good dress circle on my second
night, for besides Buckland, Warburton, Lyell, De la Beche,
The Candoc Range. (Sketched by Mi& Stackhoose Acton.)
and performers who could understand it, the President of
H.M. Council, the M. of Lansdowne, dined with me at the
club, having quitted a Colonial Council to do so, and he sat
it all through the evening.''
Important as were these conmiunications to the Society,
they could only be abstracts of the work of the long summer
campaigns. The fuU details were now to be elaborated for
the opus magnum on which the energies of the next four years
were to be concentrated. By the month of August all the
preliminaries as to publication had been arranged with Mr.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
222 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [issi
Murray, and the forthcoming work was advertised as in
preparation. But much still required to be done in the field
in tracing out the geological changes in the long strip of
eountiy through which the Transition rocks extended. Hence
as soon as he could get away from town Murchison buckled
on his hammer again, and betook himself to a re-examina-
tion of his old ground in Shropshire and adjoining counties.
Up till this time Sedgwick and he had been labouring
independently among the old grauwacke rocks, as if each
had got hold of a very distinct problem which could be, and
indeed needed to be, separately solved. The domains which
they had seized were conterminous, and tacitly a sort of
'bateable land had been allowed to stretch between them.
It was in the summer of this year (1834) that they met to
arrange, if possible, an amicable adjustment of boundaries.
Sedgwick crossed over into his friend's territories to make
with him a conjoint tour, which was thus described at the
time in two letters from Murchison to Dr. Whewell, dated
18th July: —
'''The first of men ' took leave of me and my little car-
riage at Ludlow, on the 10th July, bending liis steps (nearly
as firm as I ever knew them) toward Denbighshire. We
not only put up our horses together, but have actually made
our formations embrace each other in a manner so true, and
therefore so affectionate, that the evidence thereof would
even melt the heart, if it did not convince the severe judg-
ment, of some Cantab, mathematicos of my acquaintance."
"Having dovetailed our respective upper and lower
rocks in a manner most satisfSftctoiy to both of us, I hastened
back to join my wife. ... I shall run down to Edinburgh
just in time for the meeting, and the feast being over, the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1834.] SEDGWICK AND MURCHISON IN WALES. 223
Professor and self intend to look at some other border cases
of transition, — the 'whole to conclude with a lecture from
him to myself on his strong ground of Cumberland. I was
not a little proud of having such a pupil ; and although I
think and hope he endeavoured to pick every hole he could
in my arrangement, he has confirmed all my views, some of
which, from the difiQculties which environed me, I was very
nervous about until I had such a hacker. But I will say no
more of Number One than to assure you that we had a most
delightful and profitable tour in every way, and that our
section across the Berwyns, in which the Professor became
my instructor, was of infinite use to ma Such are the fold-
ings and repetitions that my 'black flags' of Llandeilo are
reproduced even on the eastern side of these mountains, and
it is only as you get into them that you take final leave of
my upper groups, and get fairly sunk in the old slaty systems
of the Professor.
" I will leave him to tell you of all our marches and
countermarches in Hereford, Brecon, Caermarthen, Mont-
gomeiy, and Salop. . . . Whether he fell in love with some
of the Salopian lasses or not is in his own breast ; but I can
assure you that a whole houseful of them are deeply smitten
with him. When we parted at Ludlow it was found that he
had left that beautiful brown coat of his in the veiy house
where all these sirens were, so I left him posting back to
recover the old garment, and perhaps to leave his heart" ^
^ From this letter it wiU be seen tliat Marcliison at least was fally con-
vinced of the doyetailing of his groups of rock with the older slaty masses
on which Sedgwick had been at work more to the north and west. As
we shaU find, he published this conviction without note or protest from
his friend, who indeed pnblidy accepted and declared the same belief (see
jposteo, p. 230). Many years afterwards, however, when bitterness had
arisen between these two comrades, and when perhaps the recoUection of
Digitized by VjOOQIC
224 STR RODERICK MURCHISON. [vol
The British Association held its meeting this yeat ii
Edinburgh. Thither the two feUow-hbtnirers made thdr
way, the one to resign the Presidency which he had held sd
sudcessfully at Cambridge, the other to^ow his Giauwacke
and Old Bed Sandstone maps, and to tcdce a share in the
task of still further consolidating and strengthening the
infant Association.
In a letter written to Sir Philip Egerton on his way south
again to the Welsh and Shropshire rocks, Murchison tiius
refers to the doings at Edinburgh, and afterwards : — ** The
meeting was most successful in every way. ... I may say,
what aotoally took place at the time with which we are dealing had be-
come in some measure indistinct, Sedgwick penned and published an
aooouat of this first conjoint tour in Wales, differing considerably from
that giren in the letter quoted in the text. He says, — ** There were early
difficulties, both physical and palnontological, in distinguishing the Lower
Silurian from the Upper Cambrian groups, and in fixing their true geo-
graphical limits, and it was partly in the hopes of settling such points of
doubt that in 1834 I went, during six weeks, under my friend's personal
guidance, to examine the order of succession as established by himself in
the typical Silurian country. Beginning therefore at liandeilo, and end-
ing the first part of our joint work at Welsh Pool, we examined many of
his best sections. OccasionaUy, while he was working out minute details,
1 spent some days in collecting fossils. ... I believed his sections, so far
as I saw them, to be true to nature ; and I never suspected (nor had he
then suspected) any discordancy or break of continuity amongst his typical
rocks from the Upper Ludlow down to the Liandeilo groups. I adopted
all his groups, I may say, with implicit faith, never dreaming of a chance
(during a rapid visit) of correcting those elaborate sections on which he had
bestowed so much successful labour. . . . We never examined or discussed
together the SUurian base-line in the country south of Welsh Pool ; and what-
ever be the merit or demerit of the base-line afterwards published in the map
of the ' Silurian system,' belongs exclusively to my friend. [See jMMfeo, p. 307.]
As to this base-line, I neither gave nor had I an opportunity of giving any
opinion, either good or bad. . • . North of Welsh Pool we reached a country
(east of the Berwyns) with which I was previously acquainted. . . . My
friend now made use of and interpreted some of my field sections of 1832.
... I guided my friend (as he in his Silurian country had guided me) over
the Berwyn chain to the Bala limestone, along the high road from Rhaiadr
to Bala. We made no mistake in the section. . . . My friend then de-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Vol. r
To fif't \xtfjc iio.
PROFESSOR JOHN I'l^YPAia
t'mm a I'tdnfing by 6ii Henry It'uhut n.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1834.] WITH SEDGWICK AT SICCAR POINT. 225
without vanity, that we geologicals were all the fashion, and
engrossed by far the greater share of attention. Agassiz has
pronounced that not one of the fossils of the Burdiehouse
limestone are reptiles, but all belong to fishes. You will be
amused to read old Buckie's lecture, given two nights before
Agassiz made his decision against the reptiles, for in it the
reptiles made a grand figure. My fishes in the Old Bed are
baptized Gephalaspis, from their horse-shoe heads. ... I
was a day at Lord Melville's, after which Se(^gwick and self
moved on together to Sir John Hall's at Dunglass to look
at St. Abb's Head and the Siccar Point, both famous by the
writings of Hutton, Playfair, and HalL Whilst at Dimglass
olared tbat the Bala limestone was no part of his Silurian system." The
Professor points oat the error in classifying the Bala rocks as underlying
ail the Silurian groups, their true place being the equivalent of that of the
Caradoc rocks in the lower Silurian series. He asserts that for this error,
hardly avoidable at the time it was made, Murchison was alone responsible.
It is difficult to see on what evidence this charge rests. One fact at least
is certain, that if Murduson started the error, Sedgwick adopted it and
believed it for years, although, according to his own showing, the means
existed in his own territory of putting the matter to rights at once. ** A
single traverse from Glyn Ceiriog to the northern end of the Berwyn
dudn would have settled this question on evidence not short of a physical
demonstration. But we did not make this traverse." — British Pcdceozoie
FossHe, Introduction, pp. xliii-xlv (1855). But evidence maybe found
in Sedgwick's own letters to show that he thought and wrote under
at least the impression that his own Welsh rocks were older than those of
Murchison. Urns even so far back as February 1833 he wrote to his
friend in reference to a proposed dovetailing of their work : — *' The upper
system of deposits, with its subdivisions, is as plain as daylight, and
entirely under your set" It would be easy to multiply quotations from
contemporary geological literature to show that this was the general im-
pression among geologists as to the views of the two pioneers in Wales.
As an illustrative example, reference may be made to the first edition of
Lyell*s ElementM qf Oeology, published in 1838, before the appearance of
Murchison's Silurian System. See p. 464, where Sedgwick is given as
the authority for calling Cambrian a vast thickness of stratified rocks,
*' below the Silurian strata in the region of the Cumberland lakes, in K.
Wales, Cornwall, and other parts of Britain." This subject will come up
again in later chapters of this biography.
VOL. I. P
Digitized by VjOOQIC
226 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [i834
I fell in with my old friend Lord Elcho, who has set up a
View of the ClUh neur St Abb'i HeuL (Sketched by Sir A. Aliaon.)
advocate, who made sketches of the locks in my note-
book"^
Murchison's journals of this period of his life read very
much like the field notes of an active geologist Personal
detail is wholly wanting, and the gist of the scientific work
has long been given to the world. From the letters which
he has preserved, we can seAwhat a voluminous correspon-
\
^ One of these aketohet by the fatJU« historian and baronet was after-
wards introdnced into SUuria (4th edit.^ p. 149), and is reproduced here.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1834.] PROPOSES THE TERM ' SILURIAN: 227
dence he must have kept up witli Mends who lived among
his grauwacke locks, and from whom he derived continual
assistance in the shape of notes on the geology, and of fossils.
He acknowledged, in his published writiiigs, the value of this
co-operation, and gave the names of his principal coadjutors.
Even the very children of some of his friends were enlisted
in his service, and delighted to get away into the quarries to
hunt f)^r fossils for him ; and at a time when these fossils
had ne'^er been systematically collected and described, it
may easily be imagined that this juvenile help proved in
many cases eminently serviceabla
It was now plain, after all these campaigns, that though
many details might be added afterwards, the grand order of
succession of the grauwacke had only been made more clear
by every new examination. It had been subdivided into
four well-marked formations, each as defined by mineral
characters ai^d fossils as any members of the secondary
series. To continue to apply the terms "grauwacke" or
" transition" to these distinct fossiliferous formations, as
well as to all; the old crumpled unfossiliferous rocks, would
evidently lead] to endless confusion. They required a special
name. The i^ry of their nomenclature is thus told by
Murchison hjmsdf : — " At this time I proposed the term
' Silurian,' aiid it came about in this way. My Mend, the
eminent French geologist, ^e de Beaumont, seeing what a
clear classification I had made out by order of superposi-
tion and characteristic fossils in each descending formation,
earnestly urged me to adopt a name for the whole of the
natural groups. Seeing that the region in which the best
types of it occurred was reaUy the country of the Silures
of the old British King Caractacus, I adopted that name
Digitized by VjOOQIC
228 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isss.
[Silurian]. I had seen that all geological names founded on
mineral or fossiliferous characters had failed to satisfy, and
that ftmciful Greek names were still worse. Hence it seemed
to me that a well-sounding geographical term, taken ftx>m
the very region wherein the classification had been elabo-
rated, and where every one might go and see the truthfulness
of it, was the best"^
The first publication of this new name took place in
July 1835 in the pages of the London and Edinlnt/rgh Philo-
sophical Magaxine, In a brief article the author gives his
reasons for the proposed term, with some improvements of
his previous tabidar statement, and a woodcut section to
show the way in which the rocks are related to each other
in their several subdivisiona As the parent of all subse-
quent Silurian sections, the diagram possesses a peculiar in-
terest : a facsimile of it is inserted on the opposite page.'
Before leaving town for the usual simimer work in
Siluria he headed a deputation to Government to represent
the urgent need of a good map of the northern half of the
island — a subject which had occupied the attention of the
British Association at Edinburgh. Writing in later years
of this incident, he remarks, " Spring Eice, the Chancellor
^ Murohi8on*B extreme anxiety regarding the names to be chosen for
his formations, is well shown in a letter of ten large pages which he
addressed to Dr. Whewell on 20th November 1834, " as the great Geolo-
gical Namendator," entreating his assistance in improving his tabular list
of the grauwacke rocks.
This section shows in a kind of rough general way the order in which
the successive divisions follow each other. It is inaccurate, however,
inasmuch as it represents a continuously conformable series from the coal*
measures down to the base of the Llandeilo rocks, and places the latter
rocks in a violent unoonformability upon those of older date. It was the
general belief, as already remarked, that the " Silurian*' formations
described by Murchison belonged to a younger series of deposits than
the rocks of North Wales investigated by Sedgwick.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1836.]
THE FIRST SILURIAN SECTION.
229
5
•3
i
11
"-a
5 rf
I"
-[
«|
i
Digitized by VjOOQIC
230 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isss.
of the Exchequer, received us blandly, and with his Irish
blarney joked me oflf by saying that I had hunted very well
in Leicestershire with the Melton map, and made several
good shifts. He avowed, however, that until Ireland got
her map we should or could not get ours. And so it has
proved."
In its cycle of changes the British Association held its
meeting this year (1835) in Dublin. We have here no fur-
ther concern with this assembly than that it was attended
by Murchison and Sedgwick, and that they conjointly gave
there an account of what they had each been doing to
"poor old Grauwacke." The chief feature of interest about
this communication is the light it casts upon the views
which the two friends entertained of the connexion of their
respective areas of work. And this becomes a matter of
some importance in relation to the subsequent unhappy
estrangement. Sedgwick now gave the name of Cambrian
to the rocks among which he had hammered so much in
Cumberland and Wales. There cannot be the slightest
doubt that at this time, together with Murchison and geolo-
gists generally, he r^arded his Cambrian masses as older
than the Silurian rocks. His colleague stated that in
South Wales he had traced many passages from the bottom
of the Silurian system down into the slaty rocks now called
Upper Cambrian* He himself made no opposition to this
view ; on the contrary, after showing that the lowest Silurian
group was connected with his highest series in the chain of
the Berwyns, he proceeded " to explain the mode of con-
necting Mr. Murchison's researches with his own." It
turned out in the end that this notion was erroneous, and
that the upper half of Sedgwick's Cambrian rocks was simply
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1836.] A T THE GIANTS CA USEWA Y. 231
a prolongation of the lower half of Murchison's Silurian,
But it was an error in which at this time both of the geo-
logists must be regarded as participating.
The following memoranda from journal and letters give
us some notion of the doings of the autumn of this yesur : —
" A frolic in the north of Ireland with Sir P. Egerton,
Lord Cole, Sedgwick, my wife, and others, when I made
some good geological notes. In clambering along the steep
slope [near Giant's Causeway], Sedgwick lost his head, and we
much feared that he would fall into the sea. GrifiBth alone
crossed the Devil's Bridge, Sedgwick, Cole, Colonel Mont-
gomery, and self, having turned back and gone up the hill
and round. My wife boated all the way and made sketches,
and joined us at the comfortable inn of Bush Mills, where
we had a very jolly party." Thereafter ** I returned to my
old hunting grounds of the Silurian region."
*' A pleasant visit at Hagly, but I took care to stick to
the tail of the Diidley field, which I finished off (ordering a
new gun of Westly Eichards in a parenthesis). In Tort-
worth I laboured hard for four or five days, and having com-
pleted my map, I then took my departure for Pembrokeshire,
sending Madam on to the neighbourhood of Bath to visit
some old friends till I became a free man. I spent a day
with Conybeare on my road. I then set to work in Pem-
broke most vigorously, and after three weeks of incessant
labour, every day's work proving to me how much I had to
do, I left off, perfectly satisfied with having completed a
very handsome tail-piece for my Silurians, who are now
regularly launched in three bays in Pembrokeshire. What
an absurd name does this Grauwacke now appear to be ! —
I joined my wife two days ago, and shall be in my den to-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
232 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isse.
morrow, there to shut myself up till the big book is ready —
an awful thought I "
This self-imposed seclusion would have been serious had
it been carried out, for the big book did not make its ap-
pearance for three years afterwards. The volume grew far
beyond the dimensions originally proposed. In its prepara-
tion, too, questions were continually occurring which made
a re-examination of the ground either desirable or necessary.
Hence$ although the winters were spent in tolerably close
application to the desk, the summer months commonly saw
the pen willingly exchanged for the hammer.
As season after season stole past without bringing his
work to light, some even of his geological friends began to
get impatient. His excuse was thus given to his friend
Phillips in the spring of 1836 : —
''There are at least three reasons why I cannot bring
out the ' Silurian System' with that promptitude with which
you have issued your monograph of the 'Carboniferous
limestone,' — 1st, I have not the same facility of composi-
tion. 2dly, I depend on others, and not as you do on your-
self, for the description and figuring of the organisms. Sdly,
The work is so multifarious, being, besides the history of the
rocks beneath the Carboniferous system, an attempt to work
out all the general relations of the lias, New Eed Sand-
stone, and Coal-measures of those central counties. . . .
The work is entirely written save the descriptions of the
organisms — a very large salvo this ! I cannot shove
Sowerby on, and when he is shoved on I am not so sure of
him as I could wish. My corals I have no doubt will be
beautifully distinguished by Lonsdale ; my fishes by Agassiz ;
plants I have none ; my graptolites by Dr. Beck of Copen-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
18M.] VISITS DEVONSHIRE. 233
hageiL What would I not give, my dear friend, for your
powers in the description of the mollusca V
"The correspondence [with the Council of the British
Association on the subject of the delay in completing the
Ordnance survey] is ordered to be printed for the use of the
House of Commons, who now begin to feel (railroads cutting
into their senses) that physical geography is of some im-
portance even to senators.''
In such busy but uneventful routine the three years
1836-1839 passed away, the chief feature in each of them
being the autumn meeting of the British Association, at
which, whether called horn the desk or the hill-side, Mur-
chison did not fail to make his appearance.
"In the year 1836," he writes, "I had a good deal of
anxiety on account of my dear mother, whose health had
been failing, and to whom I had gone at Cheltenham in the
spring. This was a cholera year, and my wife having gone
down to see her mother at Nursted House, I went in June
into Devonshire with Sedgwick to try to understand the
complicated geology of that county."
This tour in the south-west of England proved to be
the beginning of a series of explorations carried on for
three years conjointly by the two geologists, which re-
sulted in the establishment of the Devonian system in geo-
logy. For the sake of clearness it will be best to trace
out that story by itself in the next chapter. In the mean-
time we may merely note in passing when and where the
explorations were carried on, until we reach the culmination
of the Silurian work in the publication of " the big book."
It will then be easy and may be useful to turn back
for details, and follow out the history of the Devonian
Digitized by VjOOQIC
234 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [i836.
qnestion, which thus to some extent overlapped the
Silurian.
An excellent start was made during this first excursion
into Devonshire, and, as we shall afterwards find, materials
were gathered for a bold announcement to the meeting of
the Association at BristoL ''At that meeting,"" to resume
our quotations, " the fun of one of the evenings was a lecture
of Buckland's. In that part of his discourse which treated of
Ichnolites, or fossil foot-prints, the Doctor exhibited himself
as a cock or a hen on the edge of a muddy pond, making
impressions by lifting one leg after the other. Many of the
grave people thought our science was altered to buflfoonery
by an Oxford Don.
" After the meeting my mother became rapidly worse,
and died at the age of sixty-five, my sister Jeanette and
myself being present in her last sufferings. I buried her in
the same grave with my father, at the little church of Bath-
hampton, near Bath. In the same churchyard my mother^s
brother, my old general. Sir Alexander Mackenzie, has since
been interred. No man ever had a more affectionate mother
than myself, her only defect being over-indulgence of her
children."
At the end of the Bristol meeting the Woodwardian
Professor went down into Devon and Cornwall to do some
further hard work among the rocks there. He w^at that
time intent on getting a clue to the history of^e j^ts by
which rocks are so abundanUy traversed. " But Jtfurchison,
having manuscripts and propfnsheets on ^nd, did not
acQaiap&iiy him, though once again the imwearying explorer
of Siluria found cause to go over part of his old sections to
verify them, driving from town to town in a butcher's oart
Digitized by VjOOQIC
\
\
1835.] WITH PHILLIPS IN ^IL URIA. 235
which he had hired for the purposa BBp friend Phillips met
him by appointment at Brecon, to exatoine with him the
curious little tract of- Com y Vaen, and the Professor has
made the following memoranda of the journey : — ** Welsh
ponies were in requisition, and we reached the hill, hopmg
to escape the jealous company of the Welsh farmer, who
looked upon the men of the hammer as some kind of miners
secretly prowling for gold or coaL Murchison had paid
many visits, and had tried to explain to the inquisitive
agriculturist why the barren grey rocks prominent above
the 'Old Bed Sea' had so much interest in his ey^s. On
this occasion I also had to encounter ' the old man o^ ^^^
mountain,' because my clinometer was in great us\ in
respect of dip, cleavage and joints. 'Axes of elevati<
' direction of fault,' * extent of throw,' ' envelope of old rei
and other strange phrases, made our friend very angiy, so
that, unlike Welshmen in general, he offered us no kind of
welcome or refreshment, but appeared to rejoice in our going
away as a relief from some positive eviL"
Back in London again among his books and papers, Mur-
chison writes on November 21st to Sir Philip Egerton : —
'' I am going through my heavy work, and am just send-
ing to press all that I mean to say of the 'New Bed
System.' . • .
"My bone-bed in the Ludlow rocks is turning up
trumps — jaws with teeth complete, carnivorous shark-like
little fellows, with loads of co proli fce s, indinating that my
Silurians digested even harder stuff than your Liassic
friends, viz., Pentacrinites, eta ! This is beautiful, at
some 8000 or 10,000 feet below the fish beds at which
Buckland begins his transition stories about the oldest
\
Digitized by VjOOQIC
236 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80K [issc
fishes. But it will do for his third or fourth edition.^ He
has been in town last week, and was one day closeted with
Babbage eight or nine hours, to get his siphtinde into order.
It appears that Sedgwick and others, on reading the Nau-
tilus Theory, at once saw there was a screw loose in the
mechanics, and that if the animal got down to depths un-
known he never could get up again. I know not how it is
FOSBIU FROM THB GrAUWACKB OB TRANSITIOH B0CK8 (UPPXR LuOTDOTKRYX
L Pentamenu lens. 8. P. oblongos. 8. P. lintoflw 4. Atryp* bemispberica. 5. A.
reticnlaria. 0. Pentamenis undataa. 7. Stropbomena eompressa. a Holopella canoeJlata.
9. Belleropbon trilobatos. 10. BncriimTUB panetataa. 11. Petraia aubduplicata
to end, but I hope our friend will be able to sing Eesurgam.
On the whole the book pleases most peopla
" We are going on swimmingly, with bumper meetings.
I am working from six A.M. till dark."
Sedgwick had promised to share in the preparation of a
memoir on the Devonshire geology, but postponed from week
to week the completion of his task. Chafing at this delay
Murchison employed a part of the winter in putting together
in conjunction with Hugh K Strickland — then just beginning
a career cut short sadly and too soon — a memoir on the New
Bed Sandstone, in which the English deposits of that age
^ Beference is here made to Buokland's well-known Bridgewater
TreaHse.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1837.] SEDGWICK'S CRITICISM. 237
were correlated with the Eeuper and Bunter formations of
Germany. The paper was referred by the Council of the
Society to Sedgwick, and here is his opinion of it as given
to Murchison himseK : —
"I have reported favourably on your paper on the
Keuper, and said that it ought to be printed. But was ever
such a blotched, patched, botched, scratched, blurred, bothered
thing sent to an arbitrator ! with a prospectus, too, of certain
plates affixed like a tin case to its tail, I suppose to make it
go. It made me mutter bad words through my teeth many
times over before I got to the end of it Perhaps I did not
swear outright ; but you have no right to tempt me."
This description of the author's style of caligraphy is not
more graphic than true. His manuscript as it went to the
;»inters was usually so scored, and crossed, and rewritten, as
to be sometimes with difficulty legible even by himself.
When the proof came back it soon grew under his pen
nearly as bad as the original manuscript, and many a time
had to be set up afresh. His publisher said of him that he
" wrote in type."
It was in the elaboration of chapter after chapter of
such exasperating manuscript that a good part of the siunmer
of 1837 passed away. The afiTairs of the British Association
entailed indeed a large amount of correspondence and other
duties upon a General Secretary. The meeting this year
at Liverpool drew Murchison as usual out of his den at
Bryanstone Place, and gave him a week of hard work and
incessant festivity. For by degrees the rigidly scientific
aspect of the Association had come to be more veiled by
the abundant hospitality and good cheer with which the
members were welcomed. Each town to which they came
Digitized by VjOOQIC
238 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N'. [i837.
strove to vie with the previously visited places in this non*
scientific part of the proceedings. Philosophers, it was found,
did not despise a good dinner, and were quite ready to
take part in an evening 'peirty, or a more formal and crowded
soir^
Liverpool received them on this occasion with the most
lavish expenditure. As Greneral Secretary, Murchison had
more than enough to do, but he found time to send the
following notes to his wife : —
''The preparations here are excellent Turtle daily at
the ordinary, so what is to become of the poor savans when
they go back to country quarters? We dine with the
Mayor to-morrow, whose lady has a grand soir^ in the
evening, and thus begin our frolica"
''You are a reasonable woman, and know what a week
I have had ! nothing have I done but dream, work, and
think for the Association. All has gone off admirably, in
spite of wind and weather. The conversazione and lifter
parties for the evening have been much preferred to the
dull afiairs of former meetings, and the splendid t&te given
in the Botanical Gardens to 2600 persons, all of whom were
fed, and for which forttmately the day of Friday was fine,
contributed no little to the complete success of the thing.
Last night we had our finale, and all our thanks."
The rest of 1837, and nearly the whole of the next year
were given up to the completion of the " Magnum Opus,"
and the seeing of it through the press, with the drawing
and engraving of the map and numerous illustrations with
which it was enriched. Not^ however, without an occa-
sional malediction over the toil and trouble of the whole
enterprisa " I get on slowly and sulkily as respects my own
Digitized by VjOOQIC
M3&] PUBLICATION OF ' SILURIAN system: 239
powers of digestion'* (he writes, for example, to Phillips).
'' Never will I nndertake another big book of such multi-
fietrious parts ! But I must now swim through the^ whole,
or sink under the weight of my own details. I would give
any competent man £100 to launch my ship, but I cannot
trust to others.'*
The long delay had not been without its advantages in
the greater scope and accuracy which it permitted, especially
as r^arded the second half of the work, or that which
treated of organic remains. It had enabled the author
during a series of years to gather the fruits of all the
criticism, the hints, and the information which the discus-
sions of his communications to the Geological Society
evoked. It allowed a steady growth of his geological ex-
perience before he should commit himself to the responsi-
bilities of an independent publication, appealing to a wide
circle of readers. Nor had it in any way retarded his
reputation ; for, as we have seen, the more salient features
of his continuous labours in this field, since that lucky
journey in 1831 to the banks of the Wye, had been given
year after year to the Geological Society, and through
the publications of the Society, as well as of the British
Association, had become generally known to geologists
all over the world. But the Ml account of these, and
notably of the wonderful series of fossils which he had
brought out of the old Transition rocks, had been impatiently
expected for several years. At last, towards the end of
1838, it made its appearance, — a ponderous quarto volume
of 800 pages, with an atlas of plates of fossils and sections,
and a large coloured geological map.
The publication of The Siliman System, for so the work
Digitized by VjOOQIC
240 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80K [inaa
^as entitled, forms one of the land-marks in the history
of geology. It gave, for the first time, a detailed view of
the succession of the geological formations of more ancient
date than the Old Eed Sandstone, with full lists, descrip-
tions, and figures of the animals which had peopled the
waters in which these early deposits were laid down. It
opened up a new chapter, or rather a whole series of chap-
ters, in that marvellous history of life which geology unfolds.
Corals, xto., prom thx Grjluwackb Limibtonb (WkklockX
L Favosites cristatui. 8. F. QotlAndioiu. 8. A variety of this ooraL 8*. 8**. Magnlflel
portioDB of two varieties. 4. Favoaites asper. 6. Alveolites LabeohiL e. Ceriopora oculata.
7. Favosites fibrosus ; a a variety encrufitiog shells.
Before the researches began, which found their fitting termi-
nation in this splendid work, men had very generally looked
upon the " Transition " rocks as a region of almost hopeless
confusion. Murchison had succeeded in making out the
order of their upper and most fossiliferous portions, and now in
his pages and plates the subdivisions of these ancient forma-
tions stood as definitely grouped and arranged as the orderly
undisturbed Secondary deposits of central England. He
had traced out also the sites of some of the submarine vol-
canoes of those early ages, and the great thickness to which
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1838.] PUBLICATION OF ' SILURIAN system: 241
the volcanic detritus had accumulated over the sea-bottom.^
To give completeness to his account of the Silurian region,
he had likewise undertaken detailed examinations of the
overlying rocks, including the coal-fields and the various
formations up into the Oolitic series. The results of all this
work were now included in his volume. Eich, therefore,
in original research, and amply illustrated, the book well
deserved the encomium of the President of the Geological
Society (Dr. Whewell), who spoke of it, in his address, ** as
an admirable example of the sober and useful splendour
which may grace a geological monograph."* No more
remarkable proof of the value of steady industry had for
many a year been given than was furnished by the gradual
elaboration of this work. " If the young student of geology,"
so said a writer at the time, *' wishes to find an example of
the effect of diligence and perseverance, as insuring ultimate
success, he cannot do better than to follow the history of the
'Silurian System.'"* It was appropriately dedicated to
Sedgwick*
^ This had been already done in Ciunberlaad by Sedgwick among
rocka then mippoaed to be older than any part of Murohiaon's groapa,
but which are now known to lie on the same Lower Silurian horizona aa
those of Wales. See Proc Oeol Soe., I p. 400.
' Proceedings of Cfedogkal Society, yoL iiL p. 81.
' JBdifL Rev. dxyii 16.
* But for the assistance of friends and fellow-labonrers, the SUiurian
System would have been a very different work from what it is. Sedg-
wick revised some portions of it, especially the Introduction, which he
induced the author in great part to re-write. Agassiz, Sowerby, and
partdonlarly Lonsdale, named and described the greater part of the fossils,
while other friends, whose names are cited in the book, lent a helping
hand. But besides these coadjutors in the preparation of the yolume,
the author had been zealously assisted, as we have seen, by active and
disinterested friends in the field, who had worked for him year after
year, and who carried on a voluminous correspondence with him. The
names of some of his coadjutors have been already given. He haa himself
V0L.L Q
Digitized by VjOOQIC
242 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isas.
During all these busy years, when the author of the
Silurian System was elaborating his work, and giving from
time to time narratives of his progress in the publications
of the Geological Society, the fame of his labours had spread
into every quarter of the globe where geology was culti-
vated. His term "Silurian" had been adopted and applied
to the rocks of different countries where similar groups of
fossils were found Thus £lie de Beaumont and Dufr^oy
in France, Bou^ and De Vemeuil in Turkey, Forchhammer
in Scandinavia, Featherstonehaugh and Sogers in America,
referred to tliem in the pages of his work. Bnt the confession of his
geaienl obligations conye3r8 inadequate ideas of the untiring zeal and
quite incalculable service of some of these friends. The Hey. T. T. Lewis,
of Aymestry, deserves especially to be had in remembrance, for, without
his generous and effectiye aid, both in the field and in long and admirable
expository letters, so full a harvest of results could not have been reaped
by Murchison, but must have been shared by other and later labourers.
(See Edin. Eeview, loc. dt)
In the MS. memoranda already referred to as kindly supplied by Pro«
fessor Phillips, he says, " Murchison found in Mr. Lewis a man equal to
himself in field-work, and already master of all the local geology. I had
seen Mr. Lewis's collection in 1S36, and oftep heard his praise from the
Silurian Chief ; but by some f orgetf ulness the record in the great work,
to the foundations of which the Vicar of Aymestry had contributed per-
haps more than any other man, was less full and emphatic than might
have been ezpected.**
On the pubUcation of the SUtman System, its author showed an anxiety
to have the work favourably reviewed, hardly worthy of his position.
He wrote, for example, an ui*gent appeal to Sedgwick to pen a criticism
for the columns of the Times, and afterwards another entreaty for an
exhaustive article in one of the quarterlies on the whole subject of the
older f ossiliferons rocks, the grounds of the request being variously based
on the need of trying to regain some of the large amount of money which
had been expended upon the publication, on the desirability of showing
how necessary a knowledge of geological structure is for the development
of our mineral resources, on the good to geology which might be done by
making the ordinary reading public familiar with some of the more recent
researches, etc Sedgwick in a very candid and friendly way assured
him that the book needed no artificial aid, and should be aUowed to make
way on its own merits. Fitton wrote the review in the Edinbwg?^, and
drew attention to the important oo-operation of Mr. Lewis.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1838.] SPREAD OF SILURIAN DOMAIN 243
had accepted his classification^ and recognised Siluriaii
fossils in widely distant regions. Hence the book, welcome
and long-rexpected as it undoubtedly was, lost perhaps a
little of the novelty which it might otherwise have possessed*
We have now traced Murchison's career up to the com-
pletion of the great work of his life. His subsequent geo-
logical labours chiefly sprang out of these seven years' toil
among the '^ Transition" rocks. He went abroad to extend
the area of his Silurian formations, and he succeeded in
achieving its further increase at home. His domain of
*' Siluria" became, in his eyes, a kind of personal property,
over which he watched with solicitude. Or, it might rather
perhaps be compared to a vast business which he had
established, of every original detail of which he was com-
plete master, and which he laboured to extend into other
countries, while he kept up through life a close correspond-
ence with those by whom the foreign extensions were so
abundantly and successfully carried out. How all this was
done remains to be told in the succeeding chapters.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
CHAPTEE XIII.
THE DEVONIAN STSTEIC.
We have now to trace how it came about that another
chapter was added to early geological history. With the
view of following intelligibly how far this addition was due
to Murchison's labours, we may profitably take here a brief
retrospect of the previous progress of discoveiy and opinion
regarding the rocks from which the new chapter was com-
piled.
It was one of the merits of the Wemerian geognosts to
point out some of the more salient subdivisions in which, by
means maruly of mineral characters, the rocks of the earth's
crust may be chronologically grouped. They recognised
that their "Transition" series was often covered by red
sandstones and conglomerates, and that a younger group of
similar sandstones was found to rest upon magnesian lime-
stone or coaL^ It was in England that this distinction came
to be most clearly perceived, because the extensive coal-
fields of this country were found to separate the two series
of sandstones. Hence the terms Old Bed Sandstone and
New Bed Sandstone acquired an important economic signi-
^ It would appear, however, that the Old Bed Sandstone of Werner
himBelf agrees with a part at least of what is now oaUed Permiao.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1800-87.] THE OLD RED SANDSTONE. 245
ficance apart £rom their geological meaning, inasmuch as
the one lay below the coal, while the other lay above it
The Old Bed Sandstone during the first quarter of this
century had been recognised over a large part of Britain.
It was known to occur in broken bands £rom the Bristol
Channel up northwards through the border counties of
England and Wales. It had been recognised coming out
from under the Carboniferous Limestone in the Lake
country. It had been followed for great distances through
the Lowlands of Scotland, and along the flanks of the
Highlands.
But though the existence of these red sandstones and
conglomerates had been extensively proved, little had
been gathered regarding their thickness, their subdivisions,
their fossil contents, and the general geological history of
which they are the records. In Scotland much good
observation had been made by Jameson, Bou^, Macculloch,
Imrie, and other& In England a threefold subdivision of
the series was proposed by Buckland and Conybeare.^ But
these rocks were still regarded as only a subordinate, and by
no means important, group, being by some geologists placed
in the Transition series, and by others with the Carboniferous
deposits.
A great advance was made by the conjoined labours of
Sedgwick- and Murchison among the Old Red Sandstones and
Conglomerates of the north of Scotland. They showed the
great thickness and importance of the series, its range even up
to the most northern parts of our islands, and the great abun-
^ Trans, CfeoL 8oe., toL i (2d leries), p. 210. See abo Weaver, op. eOL
p. 338.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
246 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [w-ai
dance and lemarkable cliaracter of its fossil fishes.^ It was
therefore with much previous acquaintance with this geologi-
cal group, that Murchison, in 1831, had begun to trace out
its development in South Wales and the adjacent parts of
England. The vast depth and the variety of strata which it
exhibited in that region, taken in connexion with its extent
in Scotland, had so impressed him with the importance of
the Old Bed Sandstone, that when he published the
BUwricm System, he proposed, for the first time, to raise it
to the dignity of a distinct geological System.* He pointed
out its well-marked lithological characters and its peculiar
fossil treasures as grounds for clear separatioa By his
successful search, aided by that of Dr. Lloyd of Ludlow, and
other observers, the fact was made known that the Old
Bed Sandstone of England, previously supposed to be
singularly barren of organic remains, did really contain a
number of peculiar fishes, and among them some of the
very same species which had been found in the Old Bed
Sandstone of Scotland. By this evidence he was entitled
more confidently than ever to group these rocks of the
United Kingdom in one great series, and when he found
that in South Wales they attained a thickness of nine or
ten thousand feet, he very justly insisted on their claim to
an independent place in the geological record.
These views, however, met with little acceptance on the
Continent It was objected that with some trifling ex-,
ceptions, as for instance in Belgium and perhaps in Bussia,
the so-called Old Bed Sandstone of the English geologists
did not exist on the mainland of Europe, and therefore that
it had no claim whatever to rank as a system, but could be
1 See 011^ p. 144. * ^Ourton /S^^eam, p. 169.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1838.] SEDGWICK AND MURCH180N IN DEVON. 247
regarded at the best as a remarkable but only local and
abnormal development of the upper Transition or lower
Carboniferous strata. There certainly seemed a good deal of
force in these objections, and still more in the assertions
which were confidently made, that the lowest rocks of the
Carboniferous series were found on the Continent passing
down into the Grauwacke, and that there was likewise a
blending of their respective fossils. If these assertions were
well founded, they proved the absence of any intermediate
system on the Continent, and rendered the claims of any
local British series to rank as a system more than
doubtfoL
Such, in brief, was the state of this branch of geology at
the time of the publication of the Silv/rian System. While
the researches out of which that work sprang were still in
progress, and the book itself advancing through the press,
its author, as already mentioned, was led to begin another
series of observations, which led eventually to an important
change in English, and indeed of European geology, and to the
willing recognition of that " Old Bed System " for which
contention had in vsSn been held before.
It was in the year 1836 that the observations now to be
followed b^an to be made. They were the conjoint task
of the two long- tried Mends Sedgwick and Murchison. Up
to that time these geologists had been at work contem-
poraneously but independently among the older rocks,
and though Dr. Whewell, from the chair of the Geological
Society, spoke of their labours as " on all accounts to
be considered as a joint undertaking," still in actual fact the
two pioneers had started from wholly different points,
and had, as we have seen, toiled to cut out each his
Digitized by VjOOQIC
248 SIR RODERICK MURCH180N. [isse.
own pathway through that vague and unknown region
of "Transition" rocks, which certainly seemed wide enough
to give them ample room for exploration without much
risk of trenching upon each other's ground. Sedgwick
had grappled with the physical structure of the rockSy
and, amidst enormous difficulties, had achieved success.
Murchison, on the other hand, had found a series of strata
where the physical structure was comparatively simple, and
which yielded such abundant store of fossils as to be capable
of subdivision by their means. But now, in the south-
west of England, the two Mends were to combine their
methods, and to work out a difficult region by help both
of physical structure and of organic remains.
There was no such ambitious plan before them, however,
when they began their work. They had one definite point
to settle, viz., the age of the Culm-measures of Devonshire.
But in putting that matter beyond dispute, they were gra-
dually led into further and wider explorations, not in Devon
and Cornwall merely, but over a considerable area of the
Continent. It was by means of these labours that the
''Devonian System ** of rocks was established. How the
work first took shape is best told in Murchison's own
words : —
" The origin of this joint survey [of Devonshire] came
about in this way. In the preceding winter,^ Mr. (after-
wsoxb Sir Henry) De la Beche had sent up specimens of
small fossil plants from the culm rocks of North Devon,
which he described as belonging to the Grauwacke forma-
tion, ^t the evening meeting of the Geological Society I
opposed this view, on the ground that my Silurian rocks,
1 December 1834. See OtoU 8oc Proc, vol. ii p. 106.
* Digitized by VjOOQIC
1836.] ORIGIN OF DEVONIAN CAMPAIGN 249
both upper and lower, contamed no land plants whatever.^
Moreover, I thought I recognised a complete similarity be-
tween these common specimens of North Devon and those
which I had explored in the opposite coast of Pembroke,
and which I knew were superposed to the Millstone Grit
and Mountain limestone. I therefore urged Sedgwick to
^ It is perhaps hardly worth while reyerting, eren in a foot-note, to a
personal matter which threatened to bring abont a rapture of friendly
relations between geologists all of whom have made their mark in the
sdentifio history of their time, and who are now gone to their rest. And
yet the expressions in the text seem to require further explanation, more
especially as some of the survivors of that time may still be uuder the
belief that De la Beche was hardly used in this afCur. It was asserted
by some of his friends that Murchison and Sedgwick had obtained posses-
sion of an early unpublished copy of his Ordnance Geological Survey map
of Devonshire ; that they had, unknown to him, gone down into his terri-
tory and examined his sections with the map in their hands ; that they
had thereafter hurried up to the Bristol meeting to make an attack upon
him and expose his mistakes ; and that afterwards, although their full
conjoint paper had not been read to the Geological Sodety, they procured
a statement and recognition of their views in the anniversary address of
the President. The real facts were these : — ^When De la Beche announced
the discovery of plants of Carboniferous species in the *' Greywacke " of
Devonshire, Murchison (as stated above) opposed this alleged discovery,
because it ran directly counter to all the evidence he had obtained in his
own Silurian domains as to the disappearance of Carboniferous forms of
life from the older rocks, and, as he wrote to De la Beche, '* I could not
bring out my long-projected work with such a geological contradiction in
my face." De la Beche invited him to examine the ground for himself,
and gave him directions what to see, and where to see it. The map was
purchased in 1835 in the ordinary way from a bookseller's shop, where it
was sold also to other members of the Society. But it was not used on the
ground until the summer of 1836. Possibly, in the meantime, De la
Beche had begun to suspect the accuracy of these early impressions of
the map. When Sedgwick and Murchison came to the ground, they found
the facts to be as stated above. The supposed ** Greywacke ** turned out to
be merely a somewhat abnormal condition of the Coal-measures, and, in-
stead of occupying an anticlinal area, so as to dip under the other rocks»
aotuaUy lay in a great trough above them. So far De la Beche was un-
doubtedly wrong, and his opponeuts were undoubtedly right, as was after-
wards shown by the alteration of the Survey map in accordance with the
newer views. The charges of unfairness appear to have been whispered
about by De la Beche's friends in London, while he himself was busy in
Digitized by VjOOQIC
250 8IR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [isai
join me in a campaign to settle the question.^ He agreed to
do so. So oflf we went ; and first we looked through the
rocks of North Somerset, Hfracombe, Morte Bay, Baggy
Point, and Barnstaple. As we went on, a good, steady,
southerly dip continued until we reached the edge of the
fjBunous Culm tract, into and under which the older strata
pitched at a rapid inclinatioa I there saw that the game
was won, and, drawing a section, in which I reversed De la
Beche's hypothetical diagrams, I called out to Sedgwick
fix)m the rock on which I was sitting, — * Here it is 1 Look
at my section of the North Devon coaUfidd — ^the youngest
instead of the oldest rocks of the county — our job is done V
Still he was a little incredulous until we advanced south-
wards (for I had sketched this bom the north side of the
the field in the wmth-westeni ooonties. They were indignantly denied at
the time by Mnrchison, in a letter to De la Beche himself (6th Jaonaiy
1837), and in one to Sedgwick (2d February 1837). That De la Beche
was vexed to find some of the work of the Survey to be wrong was
natural enough, and that Murduson may have shown, as appears from
his narrative above, a little elation in pointing out his friend's error,
was also to be expected. Indeed, it would seem that he allowed himself to
write to Sedgwick in such a way about the alleged discovery of a Grau-
wacke flora in Devonshire as to caU down remonstrance from his com-
rade. Even as far back as January 1835, that is ooly a month after De
la Beche's announcement, we fiod him acknowledging Sedgwick's oom-
plaint thus : — '* Ton were quite ri^t in reproving me if you thought that
I used any acrimony in speaking of De la Beche's discovery, but I had
long before obviated the possibility of such being the case on one side or
the other by a friendly interchange of opinions with De la Beche him-
self." But a perusal of the correspondence and of the published papers
and abstracts has convinced the writer of these lines that no unfairness
can be justly attributed either to Murohison or Sedgwick in the matter.
It may be added, that though right as to the relative position they
assigned to the Culm-measures, these authors were much deceived in their
identification of the underlying rocks with the Silurian and Cambrian
systems, as wiU be shown in the sequel.
^ In a letter of 8th February 1836, Sedgwick proposes to Murchison
and plans the tour in Devon and ComwalL It may have been previously
suggested by Mnrohison.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1836.] CULM ROCKS OF DEVON. 251
baj), and then when he saw the actual order he entirely
assented, saying what a crow we should have over De la
Beche. The tnith I can only surmise to be, that De la
Beche, who was certainly a very able geologist, had never
really looked carefully at the consecutive sections in nature,
but seeing the Culm strata in a state of great contortion in
a low tract, he had presumed that they passed under the
higher country in the north. I also believe that he was so
much occupied in writing that remarkably skilful and in-*
genious work (the best he ever wrote), Theoretical Resewrches
in Geology, that in doing so, and carrying out his first map
of Devon and Cornwall, he really worked very little in the
field."
''At the Bristol meeting of the British Association, the
chief business of Sedgwick and self was to establish the
point regarding the great change we proposed in the struc-
ture of Devonshire ; and though Greenough, Buckland, and
the old hands made some resistance, and did not like to see
the ancient ' Shillats ' and ' (Gossans/ beUeved to be the most
ancient rocks in Britain, so modernized, it was evident that
truth would prevail."
After the meeting, while Murchison, as we have already
noted, returned to his literary toil in London, his Mend and
coadjutor went again into the Devonshire country, and spent
many weeks in hard work there, so that a broad base was
thereby laid for the conjoint paper which it had been
arranged to read before the Geological Society.
But the conclusions arrived at by Sedgwick and Mur-
chison, though they have now been for many years part of
the common fund of geological knowledge,^ were far from
^ The main point established by them was that the Culm-measures lay
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252 SIB RODERICK MURCHISON. [mml
meeting with general acceptance at first Some idea of the
opposition, or at least of Murchison's estimate of it, may be
formed &om the following sentences in a letter to Phillips, of
4th January 1836 : — " The paper by old Weaver was read
last night, and the fight is over. He has sided completdy
with S. and self. Austen, a remarkably clever young geolo-
gist, is also with us ; Major Harding &om the first with us.
The case therefor^ stands thus : For the old constitution —
Oreenough, De la Beche, and Parson Williams. On our side
are the two geologists of Great Britain who have given the
longest attention to the old fossiliferous strata, and their
opinions are supported by every man who has gone into the
tract to judge for himselfl
''All the support expected from France has gone against
the ancients ; for Buckland (himself as unwilling a witness
as Weaver) comes back from France persuaded that ]^e de
Beaumont's ''Grauwacke coal-fields'* are nothing but ordinary
Carboniferous deposits reposing on Silurian rocks.
** We are effecting a great reform at the Geological, to
save Lonsdale's life, and enable him to do his quantum of
duty. We split the duties — Lonsdale, assistant secretary
and editor ; a curator to be found. R L M. chairman of a
committee to find said curator."
The " fight" alluded to in this letter, however, was merely
, a preliminary skirmish on the reading of a memoir by
another member of the Society, and though valuable as
giving some notion of the relative strength of the parties,
by no means ended the warfare. Murchison counted much
at the top of the Deron rocks, and belonged to the Carbonif erons system.
On what particular horizon in that system they should be placed does
not appear to be satisfactorily settled yet.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
18S7.] SEDGWICK AS AUTHOR AND INVALID. 253
on the support of the Woodwardian Professor, who, if he
could onlj be got into such measure of health and spirits as
to come up to town for the purpose, would easily and
triumphanilj rout the enemy. Thus on the 30th January
the following appeal left London : —
**My dear Sedgwick, — ^I worked all day yesterday to
make the sections, and to have them correspond with our
long Bristolian coupe. I was in great hopes to have your
despatches before now ; but I wait patiently like a lamb
for the sacrifice; — and sacrificed I most assuredly shall
be without your aid. However, I will drink the best part
of a bottle of sheny to screw me up to face Buckland,
Greenough, Yates, and the Ordnance forces which are to
be brought against us. In anticipation of the memoir, I
must take this chance of a vaU from you before the fighf
Upwards of six years had elapsed since these two fellow-
labourers with the hammer had been leagued together with
the pen. The brief notice of their discovery made to the
British Association was meant to be merely a prelude to the
much fidler memoir designed for the learned audience at
Somerset House. Former experience, however, showed that
the Woodwardian Professor could not be got to move faster
than his wonted pace. After many delays and promises, a
date was fixed for the reading of this memoir. Murchison
duly appeared, but found neither Sedgwick nor the paper.
The letters which came up week after week from Cambridge
had brought the most touching lamentations over the exact-
ing claims of lectures, examinations, audits, and other Uni-
versity business, and hardly one of them ever failed to carry
a bulletin of the progress of the influenza^ gout, dyspepsia^
nervousness, or other of the bodily ailments under which the
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254 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [i837.
writer happened to be groaning at the time, and which he
anathematized with whimsical fervour. Murchison's chagrin
was expressed next day as follows : —
** 3 Bbtanston Plage, 2d February 1837.
" My deab Sedgwick, — The part of Hamlet being omitted,
the play was not performed, and all the scenic arrangements
which I had laboured at were thrown away, though the
room looked splendid. The moming^s arrivals certainly
surprised ma Ten o'clock brought me your double letter ;
eleven o'clock by the same mail the maps, and a little note
to Lyell, but in vain I looked through the parcel for the
document to be read. I read and re-read your letter, and
stiU I could not understand it One thing I clearly per-
ceived, and with great regret, that you were seriously out of
sorts, and had been suffering ; so after waiting till two, I
journeyed down to the Society, still thinking that a third
package with the paper might be sent to Somerset House, —
not so, however. These things going on ; the whole room
decorated for the fight ; Buckland arrived, Fitton present^
and a large meeting expected, — ^what was to be done?
Fitton and Lonsdale . . . counselled me to give up the
thing, which I resolved to do, to the very great annoyance of
the President [Buckland], and of all the others who came
to hear. ....
'' I am mortified that the memoir did not come ; of
course I blame myself somewhat for having thrown in
doubts on some points, because I see that ill as you have
been, and without the power on my part of talking the case
over, we mutually misapprehended each other. But enough
of what is past The thing now to consider is when to have
the paper out I should certainly not wish to have it
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1837.] BIRTH OF FIRST DEVONIAN MEMOIR. 256
done till you are present, because we must have a fair stand-
up fight and knock the and Greenough down,
** We had a good discussion on Buckland's Keuper, on
which Greenough and myself agreed about the absurd term
poikUitic, backed by old Paddy [Fitton], so the spots were
damned. We had a supper at Cole's, — ^Buckland, Homer,
Stokes, the Viscount, Sir Phil, and my Mend Bosthom of
Wolfsberg, a great friend of the Archduke John's, present
'' Did you really imagine that I was to dramatize the
whole thing without a sermon before me ? or have you been
written to by Greenough or some of the dark school ? or
was the paper unfit to be sent? or was it omitted by acci-
dent and mistake ? The President stated the last as the
cause, and I said not a word about it, for with Lonsdale's
help in construing your letter, we were unable to understand
it I think that the delay occasioned by my doubts and
your influenza and state of the stomach are the true causes ;
but if you had sent it in ever so imfinished a state, the heads
would have been read, and an abstract made, which would
have served all purposes."
Summer had made some progress before the paper was
at last actually read to the Society. It was the first of
a series of memoirs upon the rocks of Devon and Cornwall,
and their equivalents elsewhere.
The settlement of the geological age of the Culm-measures
of Devonshire, though by no means an unimportant question
in British geology, was of small moment compared with the
further researches to which it led. In working out the
position of these rocks, the two fellow-labourers found it
necessary to get a base-line for their Carboniferous forma-
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256 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [i837.
tdons. In other tracts of this countiy they would have met
with ordinary Old Bed Sandstone. But in Devonshire and
Cornwall they encountered a series of rocks which had
undergone so much alteration that their true position was
difficult to defina They were usually classed by the old
and uncouth term Grauwacke. In some respects they
resembled the old slaty masses of Wales, and at first the two
geologists who had come to them &esh from these Welsh
deposits made them out to be actually in the same geolo-
gical position as the middle and upper parts of Professor
Sedgwick's Cambrian series of North Wales.^ A good deal
of limestone, with an abundance of fossil remains, distin-
guished these Devonshire strata. But owing to the way in
which the rocks had been squeezed and broken, their order
of succession was not easily ascertained.
Various observers, especially Mr. Hennah, Mr. (Godwin)
Austen, Mr. Williams, and Major Harding, had made
collections of the fossils, which certainly differed con-
siderably from those of the Silurian rocks, and quite justified
Murchison in deciding not to claim these strata as part of his
Silurian domain. Mr. Lonsdale, toward the end of 1 837, after
an examination of various collections of South Devon fossils,
came to the conclusion that the rocks from which they were
obtained must be intermediate between the Silurian and the
Carboniferous series, that is, on the same general parallel as the
Old Bed Sandstone of other districts.* He was led to this
inference purely on palseontological grounds, because some
of the fossils belonged to Silurian species, while others had
^ Proe. OeoL 8oc., ii. 560 (June 1837).
* Proc Oeol, 8oc,, iiL 281, and Trans,, 2d series, vol v. p. 721. In ibis
memoir, the author gives references to previous authors on the rocks of
Devon and ComwaU.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Msr.] EARLY WORK OF HUGH MILLER 257
a distinctly Carboniferous character. This idea, however,
was not immediately adopted by Sedgwick and Murchison,
for they could not get the Welsh and northern type out of
their minds.
While the Woodwardian Professor and the author of the
" Silurian System " were still groping their way among the
puzzling rocks which underlie the Carboniferous deposits of
the south-west of England, another labourer, hitherto un-
known, had been for many years collecting and pondering
FOflSILB OP THX MiDDUB DXTOXIAIT LlMUTOirB.
L Caloeola aimdaHTui. S. Megolodon cncallatoa. 8. MorohiBonla bUinetU.
4 Stringooephalus Burtinl. 6. Atryp* desqaainata.
over the strange fishes which lie entombed in the Old Bed
Sandstone of the far north of Scotland, The name of Hugh
Miller is now familiar wherever English literature has made
its way. At the time of which we are treating, it had been
heard of out of his own Cromarty district as that of a musing,
meditative stone-mason, who employed his leisure hours in
writing rather indiflferent poetry and most graphic and
vigorous prose. In what other pursuits the intervals of his
manual labour were spent, and notably how he began to in-
VOL. T. B
Digitized by VjOOQIC
258 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80K [im
terest himself and others in stones and their story, he has
told in his own charming memoirs. The following letter,
one of the earliest which he addressed to his future Mend
Murchison, is characteristic : —
** Gbobeartt, IH June 1838.
" Honoured Snt, — ^My Mend Dr. Malcolmson of Madras
has written me from Paris, that he has had an interview
with M. Agassiz, and that that gentleman has expressed a
wish to see one of the fossils of a small collection which I have
been forming for the last few years. The Doctor also men-
tions to me in another letter that he had had the pleasure of
meeting with you in London about the middle of last spring,
and that you were at that time engaged in researches which
some of my specimens might perhaps serve to illustrate.
From a further remark, I infer that you too are desirous of
examining some of them. I herewith send a few of the
more portable to Agassiz, requesting him (should he be no
former of collections himself, which Dr. Malcolmson tells
me he is not) to send them to you, who deserve so well of
the geologists of the north, when he has looked over them.
Lest, however, some accident should detain them on the Con-
tinent, I deem it proper that you should have an opportunity
of examining them in the passing, and I have therefore
requested Mr. James Malcolmson, the Doctor^s brother, to
forward them to your address, with which I myself am
unacquainted. , , • [Here follow some descriptions of
the fossila]
*' There is one question in connexion with these fossils
to which I would fain receive an answer, and which I have
put to Agassiz, but which you, sir, could favour me by
answering much sooner than I can expect to hear from him.
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i8sa] HUGH MILLER. 259
Is the formation in which they occur a fresh-water one, or
otherwise ? I have some intention at present of drawing up
a popular account of the geology of this part of the country
for a widely-circulated periodical to which I occasionally
contribute, and the fact in question, if an ascertainable one,
is essential to my purpose. Your letter, were you to fiBtvour
me with a very few lines on the subject, would find me in
Cromarty. It would afford me pleasure to forward for your
inspection such of my specimens as might prove of use to
you in your present researches. I am desirous to make my
little collection as complete as possible, and in no place,
perhaps, could it be of so much interest as in the middle of
the district whose oryctology it illustratea Some of my
specimens, however, are in duplicate, and I need not say
how welcome you will be to one out of each of the pairs,
and to the use of all the others. Please favour me by seal-
ing my letter to Agassiz ere you make up the box. I do
not know that I have addressed that gentleman as I ought,
but he must just excuse the ignorance of a foreigner and a
provincial in the way the far-famed author of Salmonia did
the Frenchman who addressed him as Sirumphrydavy. — I
am, honoured Sir, your most obedient humble servant,
•' Hugh Millbb."
From Murchison's reply to this letter a few sentences
may be quoted : —
" Although my work was intended to be exclusively de-
voted to Silurian (or Transition) rocks of England and Wales,
I have made a few allusions to other tracts, and, among
these, to the Old Bed Sandstone of Scotland, in doing which
I have, in the descriptions of the organic remains, briefly
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260 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [isss.
alluded to your labours. Now that I know the fidelity and
closeness of your research, I shall endeavour to introduce
another allusion in the Appendix, which is all that remainB
unprinted.
*' I am delighted with your clear and terse style of de-
scription, and beg to assure you, that if you could send us,
in the course of the summer, any general and detailed ac-
count of both the Sutors, and all their contents, I shall have
the utmost pleasure in communicating it to the Geological
Society, to be read at the November meeting.
" You write and observe too well to waste your strength
in newspaper publications, and a good digest of what you
have done ought to be preserved m a permanent work of
reference. I can give you no positive answer as to whether
the Old Red Sandstone of Scotland was formed in a lake or
in the sea.* I have, however, strong reasons for believing
that it is a marine deposit, for in England we find marine
shells in it to a considerable height above the uppermost
beds of underlying Silurian rocks. ... I much long to
revisit the shores of Caithness and Cromarty with my in-
creased knowledge, and with the conviction that I should
learn so much from you, but I fear it is hopeless."
Besides abundant work and correspondence in regard to
Devonian geology, Murchison took a leading part in one of
the most prominent of the sdentific doings of London in
this year (1838). Sir John Herschel, after an absence of
four years and a half at the Cape, had returned to England
with a rich harvest of astronomical observations. It was
^ This question, maiiily from the labours of Mr. Godwin-Aosteo, Pro-
fessor T. Rupert Jones, and Professor Baznsay, can now be more definitely
answered, in a sense opposite to the view whioh Morohison faTOoied in
this letter.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1838.] HIS CREED IN 1838. 261
determined by his scientific and other Mends to give him a
public dinner, and to present him on that occasion with aa
inscribed vase. Murchison acted as honorary secretary, and
to judge firom the mass of correspondence which remains
among his papers, his post must have left him for many
weeks with hardly an hour of leisure. One of Herschel's
notes to him concludes '' with repeated thanks to you for
all the very great trouble which this afiTair has caused you.''
The gathering proved eminently successful — a result in no
small measure due to the good management of the secretary,
and especially to his facility for grasping even the most
insignificant details, and planning the execution of them.
Before we resume the Devonian story, reference must be
made to the death of Mrs. Hugonin in the beginning of the
year 1 838, and to a i:emarkable letter which that event evoked
from her son-in-law. This letter is addressed to his '' dear
friend" Sedgwick. It was never sent, however, but remained
in its writer's repositories until his death. During the in-
terval he appears to have read the letter at least twice — in
1857, and again in 1869 — as is shown by his own hand-*
writing on the back. It would seem, therefore, to have been;
regarded as a record worth preserving, of the state of the
writei's mind at the time regarding a momentous subject,
on which, even up to the end of life, he was not given to
speak. The letter is marked outside in handwriting of a
late date, "My Creed in 1838."
** KuBSTEO Hotrax, Petkbsitblis
I9th January 1838.
" My deae Sedgwick, — I have not for the last many
months found an hour so vacant, that if I abstracted it from
the book, or any other avocation, I did not reproach myself
Digitized by VjOOQIC
262 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [im
80 heavily bas the incubus pressed upon me. Here, how-
ever, ... I am free to occupy an hour, and I give it to you
as the man of my heart 1st, Talking of this last-mentioned
member of our frame in a physical sense, I must crave some
of that sympathy from you which I have often felt for you
when you have described to me your own sensations in its
r^on. The scene here has altogether been trying and
harassing for my wife and self — several times up and down
from town, and, on the last occasion of my visit, I returned
only to Eccleston Street to hurry ofiT Mrs. M. at a moment's
notice, as I feared she would be too late to dose her mother's
eyes. This, however, was happily not the case. The old
lady made a wonderful rally, her mind became quite com-
posed, and she took the sacrament with her daughter in friU
confidence of a change to a better world. These are agree-
able reflections. To-morrow I attend her body to the grave.
The will gives to my dear wife a most ample income for her
life. • • .
'' I do not mean to relax one jot in my search after
natural knowledge ; nay, being now a free agent for the first
time these twenty years, I shall, I hope, be enabled to em-
ploy all my leisure hours more effectively in pursuing my
favourite study.
^ But this is not enough. I have one deep-seated source
of personal unhappiness in my thoughts of the future. To
go we know not where, may be viewed calmly and resignedly
by many philosophers, trusting as they do to the wise dis-
pensations of Providence, yet vmdble to believe in the great
Atonement for the sins of man. Alas ! I am (for I need
scarcely confess it again to you, for you know me) one of
those half-instructed wandering beings who sufficiently know
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1838.] HIS CREED IN 1838. 263
and feel what they ottgJU to believe, yet cannot overcome the
force of habit and a long-continued apathetic indifference to
the vital point Doubtless I perceive much to admire, nay,
nothing to cavil at, in the precepts of Christ, though I can*
not bring my mind to acquiesce in His divinity. Still less
can I confide in and give my common sense to adopt all the
historical details of the Old Testament You will refer me
to Paley, while , professing to be a Christian, will refer
me to Fellowea I do not require a stimulus to induce me
to adopt natural religion, for I have it strongly implanted
in me ; and if geology has done me no other good, it has, at
all events, strongly fortified me in this sense.
" But here I halt. Most unwillingly it is true, for few
people have a higher respect for sincere believers than myself,
and no one would more stoutly fight for the Church, as a
great and essential moral engine, than myself. When, how-
ever, I see men of powerful minds and great integrity, who
are strict believers in Christ, I am roused to a perception of
the chance there is that the defect is in my own capacity
and heart I hope the former only. Your example has
made more impression upon me than all that was ever said
or written ; for nothing has more alienated me firom Chris-
tian belief than the constant exposure (which history and
our own experience afibm) of hypocrisy, cant, and all the
worst passions veiled under the garb of religion. You might
well say to me, ' Look at home ;' for if there ever existed a
thoroughly pious, yet unobtrusive Christian, that person is
my excellent wife. Seeing the tranquillity with which she
views her passage from this world, and knowing how the
best Christian principles are ever her guides, albeit without
a tincture of fanaticism or exclusive sanctity, I cannot but
Digitized by VjOOQIC
264 SIM RODERICK MURCHISOK [i83»-9.
hope that the day will come, when, striviiig to follow out
the dying wishes of my ovm beloved mother, I may become
a true believer. Alas I I am a sJuni way yet upon the road.
— Ever yours, my dear friend, EoD. L MuKCfflSON.
*' Having written, I looked at my confessions and was
about to destroy them, but this would have been giving way
to my own pride : so you must bear with me."
During the winter of 1838-39 Sedgwick and Murchison
were busy trying to get at the meaning of the Devonian
rocks. Lonsdale's suggestion as to the position of these
strata was now engaging their attention^ and they sought
anxiously for light from farther fossil evidence. Mtay a
box of specimen from Devonshire was turned out and
scrutinized with Sowerby and Lonsdale. It was not, how>-
ever, until the spring of 1839 that they quite discarded tiieir
previously published views of the age of the older rocks of
the south-west of England and adopted those of Lonsdale.
Even in March, Sedgwick could still write to his ftiend,^-
" The Devon fossils are a great puzzle ; but I am as firm as
ever — no Old Red in Devon.^'^
The twa geologists once more became fellow- woikers
with the pen. And the consequence was, of course, a return
to the former kind of correspondence— vehement objurga-
tions by the Professor on his real or imaginary ailment%
with whimsical accounts of hia condition, shrewd criticisms
on his friend's writing, and earnest advice as to courtesy and
moderation towards opponents. The opposition to the re-
> Mr. De la Beohe'a €kologioal Report on Cornwall and Devon appeared
in 1839, fuU of exceUent obsenratipDB, but not admitting the Culm rocks
to be tme Coal-measures, and retaining lus old term Grauwacke for the
older rooks of that region, which were soon to be named Devonian.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1839] TEE DEVONIAN BATTLE. 265
form which they wished to effect in the nomenclature of the
older rocks of Devon and Cornwall had not wholly subsided,
for there came now and then a protest or denial firom the
other side, though the main point for which they had origi-
nally contended — ^the true overlying position of the Culm-
measures — was now so tacitly admitted as to be claimed as
part of the common stock of knowledge, without reference to
their relation to it as discoverers. The Ordnance Geological
Survey Beport upon the district had just appeared, and irri*
tated them by the way in which it seemed to them to over-
look tiie important work which they had done in that part
of the country. They had written imd published rather a
sharp retort upon De la Beche,^ and the atmosphere at the
Geological Society was in that state when a storm such as
had never been experienced at Somerset House might at
any moment have burst forth. A paper on the Devon
Geology by the Bev. D. Williams, one of the opponents, was
announced for reading on the 10th of ApriL A fierce
battle was looked for, and the combatants and would-be on->>
lookers came fiom fSeur and near to be present. Sedgwick
could not attend. The good fight was therefore left to be
fought by his military ally, who, next day, still full of the
excitement, sent him the following despatch on this subject : —
" llth April 1839.
•'My dbae Sedgwick, — ^The fight is over. It lasted till
near midnight, and, all things considered, we have come off
^ Referenoe is made to tbe paper ** On tbe Claasification of the Older
Stratified Books of Devon and GomwaU," whioh had appeared a few days
before in tbe April number of the PhUoaophiecU Magazine. The latter
part of this paper is a rather angry and personal defence of the originality
of their work in these two ooonties, drawn forth by the statements in
De la Beche's Geological Report on the same district
Digitized by VjOOQIC
266 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [vol
remarkably wdL Parson Williams, who was present, had
prepared an Ordnance map of Devon and Cornwall coloured
on his own mineralogical plan. • • . Immediately after the
memoir was read, De la Beche, who came up per mail for
the nonce, rose, and holding in his hand our memoir, com-
menced an exculpation of himself from the charge we bring
against him in our condusioa .... He spoke calmly, and
without going into the memoir of the evening. I imme-
diately replied by first assuring the Chair that I had no
hesitation in expressing my regret that a word or two had
been made use of in the huny of composition which both of
us were sorry for. .... Disavowing the least personality, I
immediately got D. with me, and having thus cleared the
course, I opened the discussion on Williams' paper, and
went 'the whole hog,' as well as I could, touching the
Devonian case. De la Beche then replied, but did not
attempt to shake one of our positions, did not place a veto
on one of my assertions, and least of all, on that which laid
claim to the originality of the Culm-trough. He bothered
about a point or two near Chudleigh, as difficulties, and end-
ing by saying it was immaterial to him what the things
were called.
'' Lyell then spoke, and very adroitly put the case as one
most agreeable to him, now that he perceived that Mr.
D. not only acknowledged that the view which we took
at Bristol was original, but also that he (D.) was by no
means indisposed to adopt our new views, which get rid of
all the anomalies and difficulties (about plants and fossils).
" Fitton rose in great solemnity, and with deep pathos
impressed on the meeting the propriety of restraining the
too pungent expression of controversial writing among geo-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1838.] THE DEVONIAN BATTLE. 267
logical friends, alluded to xclj having called him ' my geo-
logical father/ and only wished that I had submitted the
paper in question to his parental revision before it was pub-
lished. He acknowledged, however, that the explanation
had quite rectified the case, and then he went on to expa-
tiate on the value of our doings, giving us superlative praise,
and bringing out Lonsdale in the foreground.
^'Greenough made his oration as I expected, was very
ingeniously sophistical, tried to throw all into chaos, saw
nothing new in our views, adhered to his old belief — Grey-
wacke for ever! — and sustained old Williams by casting
fossil evidence overboard.
** Featherstonehaugh spoke well on the great subdivisions
of the old rocks of North America, and said they were dis-
tinctly the same as ours.
*'••». These and many other things being said and
done, Buckland summed up at half-past eleven, and though
he evidently wished to shield De la Beche, he ended by
approving highly of 'Devonian* — ^he now saw light — ^that
light he referred to W. Lonsdale, and henceforth, said he,
there will be two great names in English geology — ^W.
Smith and W. Lonsdale; he adhered entirely to the fossil
evidences, did not give us the credit we deserved for our
coal-trough (which is the hey to the whole thing), nor did he
do justice to my Siluriana, without which, as you have justly
said, no one could have started this new hare.
" The room was a bumper. Warburton, who sat it out,
assured me • . • that he looked upon the case as settled, as
it was quite evident that Buckland had completely given in,
De la Beche was ready to do so, and Greenough alone held
out, standing like a knight-errant upon his ' antiquas vias.'
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268 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [i839.
** I had forgot to tell you that Lord Korthampton also
spoke to a point of conciliation ; in fact, there was too much
of this, for I sat next to De la Beche, never lost my tenq^er
for an instant^ asked him to dine with me, and all ended
' k Taimable/ and would have done so without any of the
surpassing efforts of these ' good Samaritans.'
'' Buckland was particularly happy in assisting to de-
molish ' Greywacke ' by pulling old Greenough up, who with
himself had declared a mass of rock in the Alps to be good
* grauwackel which proved to be full of Tertiary shells ;
that he had seen veiy good 'grauwacke' in oolites, in red
sandstone, in coal — in short, in everytiiing, and therefore he
did think with Conybeare that it was ' Jupiter quodcunque
vides/ and agreed with us in the fitness of using it hereaftes
entirely as an adjective or expletive. Q. K D.
" It was right well that I was not absent in. Paris, or
things in your absence also might have gone pro tempore
against us. — Ever yours, EoD. L Mubohison."
A fortnight later the two Enights of Cambria and Siluria
were ready with their own coiyoint paper on their change of
view regarding the geological position of the rocks in Devon
and Cornwall — a change which had afforded one of the
most effective shafts to their opponents in the contest
In this memoir the term Devonian was proposed as a
substitute for Old Bed Sandstone, to include the rocks
lying between the Silurian and Carboniferous systema*
The authors, accepting Lonsdale's suggestion, boldly applied
it not merely to the limestone of South Devon, to which he
^ The first publication of this proposed new geological sabdivision
appears to have been that in the PhU Mag. for April 1839, p. 259.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1839.] QEOLOQICAL NOMENCLATURE. 269
oiigmally restricted it, but to all the old slaty rocks of both
Devon and Cornwall^ and even expressed an anticipation
that it might be found capable of application on the Con-
tinent. To quote their own words, adopted by Dr. Buck-
land, this was " undoubtedly the greatest change which had
ever been attempted at one time in the classification of
British rocks." ^
It was, without question, a most important change in
geological nomenclature, and before long it met with recog-
nition and adoption all over the world, insomuch that the
term ''Devonian'' came to be as familiar a term as Silurian or
Cambrian had become. And yet we must admit that, tiiough
exceedingly ingenious, it was based rather on what seemed
.probable than what had been proved to be the case. Had the
authors simply declared that their Devonian rocks occupied
a place somewhere between the base of the Coal-measures,
or upper part of the Mountain-limestone and the Silurian
system, their position would have been unassailable. Their
identification, however, of the Devonian slates, limestones,
and sandstones, as the true equivalents of the Old Bed
Sandstone of other r^ons, left out of sight the fact that
a great. thickness of Lower Carboniferous rocks was on this
view unrepresented in the south-western counties, and hence
that a portion at least of their Devonian series might really
be Carboniferous. Many years afterwards, as will be told
in a later chapter, this now obvious objection was started
a^d argued with great vigour and cogency by the late Mr.
Jukes.
So greatly have the rocks in Devon and Cornwall been
disturbed since their formation, that even now, though they
1 Train, QeoL 8oc, 2d Ser., v. 691, and Proc, iu. 226.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
270 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [i8».
have been examined over and over again by geologists with-
out number, considerable dispute is still held over their
true structure. In their memoir to the Greological Society,
Sedgwick and Murchison indicated that what they had made
out among these cleaved and fractured rocks might not
improbably explain some parts of Continental geology,
and there was likewise the probability of new light being
obtained from the foreign rocks to clear up the obscu-
rities still remaining at home. They had even stated their
intention of personally seeking information on these points.
Murchison began to think of putting this proposal into
practice, and talked at one time of Scandinavia, at another
of Belgium, or of the south of Ireland, and again of the
Eifel and Westphalia, as the proper ground to begin upon.
He urged his colleague to make the tour a conjoint one, and
pressed upon him the needfulness of trying to brec^ loose
from the ties which seemed to bind him too closely to Cam-*
bridge or the Chapter of Norwich. Thus, early in the spring
he wrote, "I was glad to see your handwriting, albeit you
wrote in a state of exhaustion. Allow me, as your true
friend, to urge you to make more than an ordinary effort
without delay to shake off the Norvichian trammels to
such an extent as will enable you to do that sometJUng more
in field-geology without which your labours are incom-
plete and your general views cannot be established. You
say you are junior in the Chapter, but surely you can con-
trive to get off for one year a month earlier than usual • , • •
Pray, therefore, make your arrangements so that you will
take your fling ' cotite que cotite.' "
Three weeks later his feelings were expressed to the same
correspondent as foUows : — "" I am so sick of the town, and
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i8».] PROPOSES A TOUR WITH SEDGWICK. 271
so oppressed with the feeling that I ought to be a^ work,
that somewheie I will go in the middle of May. I may,
however, defer my Scandinavian tour if I can meet with no
playfellow; for in those cold and dreary wilds a solitary
tour is out of the question. Belgium, the Ardennes, the
Eifel, Taunus, and Harz may be a substitute, and most of
this I can work away in until you join me, for I gather from
your letter that some portion of this country is your aim, I
must be at Birmingham, but I shall make it a stepping-
stone to Ireland, where I shall remain till the rains drive me
out. Thus we may unite at points of essential interest."
On the 7th April, having meanwhile changed his plans
again and again, he wrote once more to Sedgwick about the
foreign tour, thus: — "Tour letter reached me at Christ
Church before we left the Bucklands yesterday, where we
passed three pleasant days. . • . • I stuck like W8ix to B.
to get knowledge from him about Normandy and Brittany^
and ended by carrying off his maps and two or three sheets
of memoranda. • • . . You call me a weathercock, and so I
am, but, I hope, for the only object about which I occupy
myself in the world. My plan is now definitively arranged.
On the 1st May or a few days after, start for Antwerp
and liege — floor that tract in a week with Dumont and
D'Omalius and Buckland's section ; traverse by Spa and make
a round to Treves, perhaps taking a peep at the west
side of tiie Eifel and back to Paris — ten days there before
any of tiie savans have left it^ fill myself with knowledge
and buy all maps, etc. ; down straight to Caen, and there
meet Adam Sedgwick in first week of June at latest, and
commence work forthwith by the coasts of Normandy
amid tiie Silurians. In two months we shall have ffutted
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272 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK [i8».
everytliiiig, and bagged as many ' chonans ' in La Vendue as
we please. It would be quite useless for you to go to Paris
and lose time. I will get the lesson for us^ and we shall do
the trick quickly ; back to Birmingham for the 26th^ and
in the first week of September over to Ireland, where G.
Hamilton and GriffiUis will throw us in three weeks into
every good cover, and we shall be home again for October
shooting."
In spite, however, of the minute detail of this *^ defini-
tively arranged" plan, it was in the course of a week or two
completely changed. The final arrangement settled that the
two old friends and fellow-labourers should once more wield
their hammers together on the banks of the Bhine. The chief
point to be ascertained was whether or not there existed on
the Continent a series of rocks having a peculiar assemblage
of fossils, and passing up:w^u:d3 into the base of the Carboni-
ferous and downwards into the top of the Silurian rock&
If such a' series could be found it would amply justify the
Devonian nomenclatura . .
Murchison started first Taking Paris on his way, he
there attended a meeting of the French Geological Society,
of which he had now become a member, and had a fight
with some of his scientific friends over the claims of the
so-called Devonian rocks to the dignity of being styled a
" system." He stuck to his point, however, here as well
as elsewhere, and, notwithstanding objections and protests,
both at home and abroad, succeeded in establishing it in the
general geological literature of his time.
The halt at Paris was brief. Before the end of May the
work had been begun in the heart of Ehineland. From
Trfeves, Murchison wrote to his wife : — " ' In fine respirol as
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W39.] CAMPAIGN IN RHINELAND. 273
I said to myseK whilst I walked up yesterday under the
fine beech-trees from the little frontier station, and found
myself in Prussian land, fairly free of the * Grande Nation*
and all its lies, Smeutes, and bombast Thank God I am now
in a country I like (people and landscape, with geology
of all sorts in the fore and background). I blessed the first
glimpse of the vine-tending nymphs, with their Swiss-like
broad-topped white caps, and the men with their round
3louch-hats, honest German faces, and great jack-boots.
Thenceforward all was changed for the better — capital
macadamized roads everywhere, postilions with horns;
the Prussian arms and eagle marl^ing discipline, order, and
comfort everywhere.
" I leave to-morrow morning in a little carriage which I
hire (I shall buy one at Frankfort, where they are excellent)
passing to Bingen on the Rhine, by Oberstein and Ereuznach
to Erankfort. I am here in Cambrian and Longmynd rocks,
with overlying red sandstone and muschelkalk. Portez vous
hien. I wish you were with me, and that we had to pass
three or four months quietly in this delightful countiy, to
which I hope indeed we may return, for I shall have plenty
to do another year."
From Frankfort on 2d June he informs Mrs. Murchison,
" I have bought a Vienna carriage, and a very nice one, which
I hope will please the Professor. Finding by his letter of this
day that he does not leave London till the 12th, I had almost
resolved running away to the Fichtelgebirge to see Count
Milnster and his collections, and to make a section of that
chain, where I believe there is much Devonian ; but second
thoughts have convinced me that it is better to do one thing
well than two things badly. So I stick to the right bank
VOI1.L s
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274 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [i8».
of the EHne, the contents of which I hope to sweep out so
as to fill two portmanteaux (now empty among my carriage
boxes), and send them off to Lonsdale's care before the
Professor meets me at Bonn."
Meschede on the Ruhr, Jvme 1839. — ^''Having finished
my ' Abendessen/ consisting of a fresh trout, some asparagus,
and eggs, I am now smoking my pipe in a very neat clean
room overshadowed with trees in this little town of the
Lower Ehine, which doubtless you never heard of before.
This morning I came hither by Alpe and BolsteuL I have
now gone clean across the region, and have looked into the
zoological and mineralogical contents of each zone of rocks,
as well as their geological relations. What I have to say
will surprise you. I do not believe there is a Silurian bed
among them, and I am more than disposed to think that the
whole is Devonian, except, perhaps, the westward flanks.
There are no Eifel fossils hera The limestones are undis-
tinguishable from those of Plymouth and North Devon, and
the orgcmic remains are all of the same classes which occur
in those rocks — OomatUes, large Spirifers, etc. To a person
bothering and losing himself in details, the geometry of the
country is puzzling, as the same zones are repeated several
times, both on the north-west and south-east side of the
axia To-morrow I march upon Amsberg, and thence into
the Dlisseldorf coal-field. If my conjectures are right, I shall
find there Devonian passing conformably under it, and I
shall then retraverse to Cologne and Bonn, and prove the
case again by other sections. So that, when Sedgwick joins
me, I flatter myself that part of the campaign (and which I
always thought would be the key to the whole thing) will
be in my pocket, and I shaU have swept the right bank of
Digitized by VjOOQIC
18».] 18 JOINED BY SEDGWICK. 275
the Bhine. So much for nnfortunate Grauwacke and all its
Kiesehchiefer and DacJischiefer, in the midst of which I am
writing. . . . Ton need not boast too much of my geologi*
cal hits, as some of them may faiL''
The caution in the last sentence of this extract was not
unneeded. For the writer had evidently determined to do
as clever a piece of geological strategy as he could before
his equal in command should join, and he was naturally
desirous to make his sections bear out the inteipietation
which they first suggested to him. But he had already gone
wrong in some of his notes, and further errors and correc-
tions were in store for him.
After about a fortnight of such marching and counter-
marching in search of a good base-line of operations for
further conjoint movements, he was joined by the Pro-
fessor. We resume the extracts from the letters to Mrs.
Murchison.
Boim, 16th Jwns. — '* If I have my own way I shall not
go near France again this season, at least not till the autumn,
and after Birmingham.^ The mine I have opened here is
weU worth all our time and attention, particularly when
coupled with the Harz and the other ' transition * tracts of
K-W. Germany.
" As I was sitting under the linden-tree with Oeyen-
hausen and his lady, not forgetting old Noggerath, up walked
the Professor, and after drinking several jorums of ' Mai-
trank,' he is now gone to bed. He is delighted with what I
have done. I have abeady convinced him that our whole
summer's work will and must be in Germany. We have a
grand field before us, and I have already provided a certain
^ The British Association Meeting of 1839 at Birmingham.
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276 SIR RODERICK MURCH180N. [isaoi
key. In this case I shall retum by Belgium in the middle
of August, and after settling Birmingham and our household
affairs, may make a run of three or four weeks to settle the
French afiTair, which is in a nutsheE**
OoUingen, 2Uh June. — ^" Since I wrote to you at Bonn
only a week ago, we have done stout work, and travelled
over much ground. I took Sedgwick back to my key, and
satisfied him of all the main points, which are, indeed, as
dear as noonday, and we have since been puzzling out some
minor difficulties, with which we shall have to contend when
we revisit the region of the Bhina ... A most capital
toibU-cPhdte seems to have put the Professor into working
order. I hope, therefore, that in a few days we shall hear
no more of his dyspeptic symptoms, which far exceed in
variety any which I ever troubled you witL He is, how-
ever, in very good spirits, and we get on famously. I have
become very rubicund and joUy, as I always do on work,
with hands as brown as a gipsy'a"
Bailenstddt, Ist July. — " We have, thank our stars! nearly
cleared the Harz ; and, though the weather has been of the
most oscillating nature, with severe &owns, we have had
some charming smiles, which enabled us to do our work and
peep into three of the most lovely valleys— the Lauterthal
near the western end of the chain, the Okkerthal near Gk)slar,
and the Bodethal, about ten miles west of this place. . • .
Sedgwick is as well as I ever knew him, — eats, drinks, and
digests Uke a Hercules, and is in great force. Indeed, we
are both quite well, though the weather is most untoward,
and fresh storms are gathering around. The geology of the
Harz is very interesting, but complicated. . . . We sleep
in a fresh Principality daily. All the kings and dukes of
Digitized by VjOOQIC
i8».] HOUSH IN BELQRA VE SQUARE. 277
Glermany seem to have slices of the Harz, and theiriedpective
strips of land ran towards the Brocken, like the s{)okes to
the box of a wheel"
FranJc/ort, Ibth Jvly. — " We have now done the Fichtel-
gebirge ; and as we travelled here almost without stopping
I have been my own bagman. Count Miinster was all
attention, and his museums delighted ua The Upper Fran-
conian geology was not quite so good as might have been;
but we did all that could have been done. The rocks are
two-thirds Devonian, and some Carboniferous — no Silurian.''
While these labours were in progress in Germany, other
transactions, involving a good deal of Murchison's future
comfort, were going on in Xondon. Mrs. Murchison, with
the fall sanction of her husband, was negotiating for the
sale of their house, now in Eccleston Street, and for the
purchase of the well-known Belgrave Square mansion, in
which he spent the last thirty-two years of his life, and which
in his occupancy of it formed one of the hospitable scientific
centres of London. This purchase is alluded to in the next
letter of the series.
Ems, Coblem, 27th t/trfy.-r-" The furnishing of our grande
maison may be done so leisurely as not to fatigae you, and
I trust we shall be there for the rest of our lives. At all
events, you wOl have a good airy palace to live in, even should
I prefer this tramping life, which I am destined to lead for
the few years of bodily activity which remain for me, should
I survive to middle age.
" Our la^ traverse to and fro through the Nassau countiy
has answered in some respects. We were both highly de-
lighted with the work on both banks of the Bhine, between
Bingen and Coblenz^ which we performed in boats^ carriage^
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278 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK [isro.
and on foot, disdaining all tlie smoking steamero. Here we
are for the day, in this most picturesque watering-place — ^by
far the prettiest of all the Bhenish baths, and doubly inter-
esting to me, because here the first true Silurian rocks which
I have seen in any part of (Germany on the further bank of
the Ehine are in great force — fine scarps and lots of fossils.''
DetUz, 31«^ July. — " We have made our last round in the
Westphalian region and the right bank of the Rhine, and we
are now on our way into the Eifel, in which, after certain
zigzags, we shall reach Treves. I have little worthy to
communicate except on geological subjects, and on these
little new. In fact, I am quite tired of this bank of the Bhine,
and am most anxious to break ground on the opposita The
only thing which annoys me in my work is, that although
we have got excellent descending sections from the coal-
measures to the bottom of the Devonian or Old Bed system,
into which all the greywacke of the right bank of the Bhine
falls, still not a trace can I obtain of Ludlow, though the
Wenlock appears on points, and thus we want the connexion
which exists in England. It is this which we are to find
in the Eifel and the Ardennea ... I am swollen out like a
German, with hands as brown as tanned leather.''
As one of the General Secretaries of the British Asso-
ciation, Murchison required to be present at the meeting,
which this year had been fixed for Birmingham. Yeiy
unwillingly he quitted the field-work on the Continent and
hurried to London. Before joining his colleague in the
Secretariate, Professor Phillips, he found time to send him
a brief report of his doings with Sedgwick.
London, ISih AugusL — " I arrived last night from li^ge,
in thirty hours, having left Sedgwick on the Meuse, in full
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1839.] WITH 8ED0WICK IN RHINELAND. 279
cry with D'OmaKus and Dumont. I am happy to tell you
that the Devonian system now rests on a basis quite
unmoveable, and that the coal-field of Devon will after this
promulgation of our new data, never more be contested.
Even the sturdy Williams will be swept away 1 It was the
observance of the leading facts of the case during my first
month's work, which led me to form a decided opinion that
Sedgwick and myself ought to give up one whole summer to
the establishment of our views, by devoting ourselves entirely
to the Bhenish Provinces and Germany ; and no sooner did
he see the outlines of the case than we resolved to abandon
Brittany, at all events till the autumn, and to stick more to
the classic regions of our science, in which as yet the alphabet
of the oldest strata remained to be pointed out. To the
Bhenish Provinces we have added the Harz and the Fichtel-
gebirge, and I return, after having travelled the better part
of 3000 miles, and satisfied with the results.**
Next day, full of his new work, he could not refrain &om
introducing it thus in a note to his friend Whewell : — " To
tell you of all the wonderful exploits of the Cambrian and
Silurian knights, and how many a dreary rock of grauwacke
they tapped before one of their followers could be found,
must remain for another day. Grand, however, is the
Devonian field on the Bhine, the Harz, and the Fichtelge-
birge. So you see we have been moving.**
The geological doings at the Birmingham meeting of the
British Association proved somewhat tama No great
paper made its appearance. Perhaps the most important
communication in Section C was Murchison's own account
of what Sedgwick and he had done on the Bhine and in
Westphalia. But that account was necessarily incomplete,
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280 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [i8».
and even inaccurate, seeing that the work had not been
brought to a close, and the later rambles of the autumn led
the two explorers in some respects to modify their earlier
conclusions. The attention of geologists had now been
seriously awakened to this settlement of the true age and
meaning of the " Devonian System." Several other labourers
were in the field, and there could now be no doubt that
the problems would not be thrown aside until their solu-
tion had been found.
A shade of sadness hung over the gathering of the
geologists at BirminghauL The day before they met, Wil-
liam Smith died. He had lived to see his work bearing
abundant fruit in every comer of the globe, and now, full of
years and honours, he left the harvest to be gathered by
younger generations.
At the close of the Associationmeeting Murchison hastened
to the Continent again. Before rejoining Sedgwick, however,
he went to Boulogne to attend the " B^union extraordinaire'*
of the Gleological Society of France, which was held this year
in that town. He had instructions from Mrs. Murchison,
that while discussing ''Devonians" and dinners with his
French acquaintance, he should take this opportunity of
obtaining some additional fmmiture for the ''airy palace*
in Belgrave Square. Here is a part of his report to her : —
Boulogne su/r Her, I2th Sept — '* Having been out daily
from half-past five till dark, I have had no time for ' furni-
ture' thoughts. It so happens that owing to my having
more knowledge of the older rocks than other geologists here,
I have been obliged to become a sort of cicerone and orator,
and yesterday evening, in the great library, the Mayor of
Boulogne and many French present, I delivered myself of an
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1839.] RENEWAL OF RHENISH FIELD-WORK. 281
Lour of Silurianism, and explained the relation of the old
rocks of this country. The effect of my discourse was to
destroy the coal-boring mania in rocks of Silurian age.
They have a poor little coal-field here which lies low in the
Carboniferous Limestone group, and this being immediately
recumbent on my Silurian schists and shales, they have
(their little upper concerns being about done up) been
poking at great expense, and with the money of unfortunate
shareholders, into my Stygian abysses. The * actions* or
shares fell 50 per cent by my speech, and, notwithstanding
that I told unpleasant truths, I was warmly applauded.*
I should have been off to-day, but I was so pressed on all
sides to remain that the departure was postponed till to-
morrow, when I proceed [with De Vemeuil] by Calais."
Bonn, 19tt Sept — "We arrived here yesterday afternoon
(t.«. M. De Vemeuil and myself). I was delighted to find at
Spa my little old vehicle, which Sedgwick had left there.
As for the chaise seat, he had carried away the key, but on
breaking it open we found his lest coat, some maps and
books, and a long well-used and highly-scented tobacco-
pipe, all in harmonious keeping.
" We found S. waiting for us, having just returned from
an expedition up the Bhine. He is in very good health and
spirits, and this afternoon we shall take the field — a valiant
triumvirate, — our force being strengthened by De Vemeuil's
good knowledge of organics of the older rocks ; but whither
we shall march, ' Dio lo sa.' I find Sedgwick much bothered
and disconcerted about many essential geological points,
^ From the official report of the Societsr's meetings, however, it would
appear that his views as to the impossibility of finding ooal in the
older rooks were not unreservedly accepted by his sdentifio brethren.
See BvUe^ de Ja 8oc. OSoL, torn. x. p. 417.
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282 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [isso.
and mncli disposed to go into a 'chaotic' state, but I
hope we shall put up our horses and come to some clear
general conclusions in spite of the apparent hotch-potch
of this volcanized country.
" The Walloons are an odd, mongrel people ; the country
hideous — ^high bleak pioors, with all the features of the
worst parts of the Highlands, and no redeeming grouse.
We slept at a great £eirm-house converted into a sort of
caravalisaiy inn. We had storms and wet in passing
through the EifeL"
LiUzerath in the Eifel, Sih Octr. — '' I have been a lazy
correspondent, but a most active workman. The days are
short, and though up daily at five (by candle-light) we are
soon benighted. Yet, with all, since I wrote we have done
a great deal From Coblenz we journeyed by the river to
Limbuig on the Lahn, and thence passed over the Wester-
wald, a high basaltic region, to Dillenberg, where we had a
fSsmious excursion on foot, headed by a little broad-shouldered
clever Prussian bergmeister, who, booted and spurred, led the
way (pipe in mouth and hammer in hand), followed by S.,
De Yemeuil, and myself and an English miner. We got
many additional fossil& .... At limburg De Yemeuil
took leave of us to run through the Eifel quickly to Paris.
He is an excellent companion, and of a charming temper,
never making a difficulty, and a thoroughly gentlemanlike
Frenchman; how different from a sulky Bull! Take
this for an example : — His travelling equipage, consisting of
a little leather bag (the size of a shooting bag) was left be-
hind at one of our stations. This was forgotten before we
reached our next post, where, caressing a great German
pointer, the animal flew at him and bit his lip through. A
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1839.] DE 7EBNEUIL. 283
little eau de vie cured the wound, and on we travelled, lie
as merry as ever, and ready again to play with the next dog
at the next inn. Arrived at Dillenberg, where the inn is
kept by an old rrenchman with three or four daughters, De
Yemeuil was soon at the old piano, delighting the girls with
new versions of aU the last Parisian airs (he plays very weU),
and in ten minutes the gayest Mademoiselle was in full zest
at a duet with him — one of Strauss's last waltzes. Without
a shirt, without a razor, without shoes, nothing daunted, he
was up at daybreak, and ready before us for the field,
equipped in one of the old innkeeper's pairs of trousers and
a pair of thick shoes. Beaching home, his thin boots and
pantaloons were ready. A village barber shaved him, and
being invited to dine out with the young English muier
and his sisters, De Yemeuil completely beat Sedgwick and
myself in his toilet, notwithstanding our trunks and bags.
I was quite sorry to lose him, and I believe he equally
regretted to quit us. He has been of great use, from his
intimate knowledge of species, and I think we have been of
use to him in geology."
The work was now prolonged into the Eifel, where
further mingled interest and difSculty met the travellers.
The autumn had been making rapid strides towards winter,
as dark mornings and early nights reminded them. There
were problems in that strange region of ancient slates and
modem volcanoes which they could then find no means of
solving. Nevertheless they considered that they had
achieved enough for one season. And so quitting the
grauwacke rocks of the Eifel and the marvellous volcanic
cones which overlie them, they dropt down the Moselle by
small boat, hammering here and there by the way, and send-
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284 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [i8».
ing their carriage by the road. The next letter reports as
follows : —
" I now write from the middle of the ' Herzog von Nassau*
steamer, floating down the Rhine, and within an hour of
Diisseldorf. We had a most charming voyage in our little
cock-boat down the Moselle, and reached Coblenz last evening
with heads full of grauwacke and lordly castles and dark
gorges. To-morrow will see us at work in Westphalia for
the last time — our third visit to some spots. We may
occupy three, but perhaps only two, days in this work, and
then we may sail for England from Sotterdam on the 15th
or 16th, and reach London on the ITth.**
Soon after their return to England Murchison sent a long
accoimt of their autumn campaign to their common friend
Phillips. From that letter it is evident enough that the
writer did not feel over-confident in some parts of their
recent Continental work, and indeed, «that in certain main
parts his colleague and he were not yet in agreement But
they had still a great series of specimens to be critically
examined and compared with those from Devon and Comr
walL Much of the winter and early spring was given to
this task, with the effective and indeed indispensable assist-
ance of such friends as Lonsdale, Sowerby, and Phillips.
'As the boxes were one by one examined, alternate light and
darkness passed over the minds of the examiners. At one
moment the field-work which seemed to have been so
decisively settled by the two geologists began to look doubt-
ful, then it grew -more than doubtful, then it seemed all
right again, and finally it had in part to be discarded as the
true reading of the fossils came bit by bit intelligibly out of
the examination. Sedgwick remained at Cambridge, but he
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i839i] DEVOmAN DOUBTS AND DIFFICULTIES. 2«5
had fix)m time to time copious bulletins of progress from
Belgrave Squara The following extracts may serve as a
specimen : —
"JDecr. 8, 1839. — ^My deae Sedgwick, — I have been
intending to write to you for some days to keep you au
cov/rant of the examination of our 'kists* and their
contents, and of the views which have been gradually
opened out in my mind, and which have now brought
me back to the status ante lellum, or, in other words, to the
same condition of mind, or nearly so, in which I was when
you joined me on the Ehina"
[Here foUow eleven pages of detail r^arding the
bearings of the fossil evidence on different parts of their
work in Germany.]
'' Thank God ! I now see daylight again. All our
follies proceeded &om our attending to these cursed min-
eralogists and ' gentlemen who deal in 'sym^trie de
position,' whose doctrines will now, I bless my stars, go
by the board.
'' Do not think me crazy, for if this letter is too short to
lead you into your former true path, I hope the 'pifecee
justificatives* [i.e. the fossils] which cover my whole rooms
will do sa
" What we ought to do is to write a memoir on the right
bank of the Rhine, viz., Westphalia and Nassau, with illus-
trations of similar tracts in the Harz and Ober Frankwald
(Fichtelgebirge), and I pledge my Ufe that if plain facts be
laid before plain geologists, there will be no escape &om my
present induction.
*' Adieu — once more redivivus, although you had well-
nigh killed me.**
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286 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [i840.
The result of these laborious deliberations was at last
a complete accord on all the main features of the question,
and the consequent elaboration of another great paper for
the Geological Society.* We get a characteristic picture
of Murchison in the following account of these prepara-
tions : —
Feb, 25, 1840. — "My deab Phillips, — I thank you for
Austen's list, as (if to be depended on) it adds one or two good
clenching fossils to a list already too strong to admit of any
doubt as to the identity of the uppermost Grauwacke
system of the Continent and the 'Devonian* as defined by
Sedgwick and mysell' I have arrived at this conclusion for
many months, and only waited the coming to town of my
colleague to open the campaign. Now that he has been
here, and that we are all agreed, the course is clear, and we
shall soon give a grand memoir to show that the uppermost
Grauwacke of both banks of the Bhine, as well as the
three members of Dumont's Terravn arUhrcudfire (supposed
by him to be Silurian), as weU as the major part of the Harz
and of the Fichtelgebirge, are true Devonian, passing up into
Carboniferous strata, and reposing on Silurian. ... I am
now highly delighted in having insisted on the ' Old £ed ' as
a system, and on my prophecy of what it would turn out in
fossils. I too, however, have made my little mistakes, and I
will thank you to allow me to amend some words in my
^ On tlie Classification and Distribution of the Older Rocks of North
Germany, etc, read Idth and 27th May 1840, and published in voL vi of
the second series of the Society's Transactions.
^ This was one of the points on which perfect unanimity was not reached
until after the two fellow-travellers returned to this country, Sedgwick
having a suspicion that the rocks of Bhineland and Westphalia, which
Murchison was inclined to rank as Devonian, were really Upper Silurian.
The grounds of this suspicion, and the difficulty of forming a satisfactoiy
conclusion, are well stated in the paper last quoted (op, dL^ p^ 226).
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1840.] VISIT TO PARIS. 287
communication at Biimingliam.^ Again, in returning by
Boulogne I gave a field lecture, and, supposing that De
Vemeuil, Dumont, and others were right in Silurianizing
these tracts, I chimed in with the error without looking for
fossils.
'' I am going to Paris in ten days to read a memoir on
the Boulonnais, all the fossils of which have been sent to
me, and they clearly Devonianize it. . . . We propose our
triple subdivision of Devonian, Silurian, and Cambrian for
Europe. Buckland has given currency to our views in his
speech, and Greenough has closely imitated our I'eform of
Devon and Cornwall So at last all is settled as to the great
boundaries,*
The brief visit to Paris, alluded to in this letter, proved
to be a pleasant and by no means unprofitable one. Dinners
at the embassy, soir^s, evenings at the opera, and other
amusements, helped to dilute the draught of science which
Murchison had been quafl&ng so vigorously for so many
months. His letters convey a droll jumble of mingled
science and festivity. Writing to Mrs. Murchison (April 4),
he describes a soiree at Lady Granville's. "There I saw
every one," he says, "not excluding Thiers, to whom I was
presented, and had some chat. He seemed to be delighted
to hear of Guizof s good reception in England, and called
him * un homme Eminent' Thiers is the drollest little body
you ever saw, more like Dick Phillips the chemist, with his
spectacles, than any one I can recollect at this moment. I
heard him to-day in the Chambre des Deputes — a short,
clear, and pithy speech, and I can understand how and why
he rules.
^ See ante, p. 279.
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288 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80K [vm.
^ To-day I had De Vemeuil with me from nine to one,
when we adjourned to M. de Meyendoif's, who starts to-
night for Petersburg, and with whom we arranged a Russian
campaign for June, July, and August. It is agreed (if I do
not change my mind) that I sail for Petersburg the 25th May,
De Vemeuil coming to meet me some days before. The
advantages are too great to be lost, both as respects the
Eussian/ocfe^wTn. and Administrator, and De VerneuiL"
Among the hospitalities, he was especially pleased with
a soir^ or banquet at which he was entertained by a
number of the leading geologists of Paris, a dinner fix)m '* old
Brongniart, in the most hospitable form, with lots of fossils
in ' sucreries,' '* and a simiptuous entertainment in his honour
from M. £lie de Beaumont In return for these kindnesses
he gave a dinner at the ''Rocher de Cancale," to a company
which included Arago, the two Brongniarts, £lie de Beau-
mont, Noggerath of Bonn, D'Orbigny, Valenciennes, Russeger
from Egypt, D'Archiac, Bou^ (then fresh from Turkey), and
De VemeuiL
The paper on the Boulonnais was well received at one
of the best meetings of the season of the Geological Society
of France. Alexander Brongniart was in the chair, and
an interesting discussion followed the paper, some of the
speakers impugning the right of the Old Red Sandstone to
be regarded as a terrain^ and Murchison standing up stoutly
in its defence.
After these few weeks in Paris, passed in this pleasant
way, he returned to London, having now but little time to
prepare for that Russian campaign, the plan of which he
had sketched out. What this plan was, and how it was put
in execution, will be told in the succeeding Chapter.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
CHAPTER XIV.
A GEOLOGICAL TOUR IN KOBTHEBN RUSSI/L
Amid the ceaseless revolutions which, during the long
lapse of geological time, the surface of our planet has under-
gone, few tracts have escaped the efiects of those moyements
by which the rocky crust has been crumpled and broken.
The older the rocks the longer have they been exposed to
these movements, and the greater therefore are the fractures
and folds which have been made in their mass. Hence the
task of the geologist, though it may be often easy enough
among the unaltered deposits of recent times, frequently
becomes more and more difficult the higher the antiquity
of the rocks which he seeks to interpret. The older the
record, the more imperfect and illegible may we expect its
pages to ba
It was among some of the older chronicles of the geolo-
gical record that Sedgwick and Murchison had now been at
work for many years. With rare sagacity they had suc-
ceeded in eliciting the evidence of the order of succession
among some of the oldest and most shattered rocks of
Europe. They had developed that order in Britain, and as
VOL. L T
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290 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [im
for as they weie able had traced its continuance among simi-
lar rocks on the Continent Many a time, however, had they
been thwarted and baffled by the obstacles presented by the
dislocations and contortions of the rocks, insomuch that,
although they felt sure that the general story as they had
interpreted it would be sustained by further investigation,
they could not as confidently defend all their details.
In the course of their work, accounts had reached them
of marvellous regions in the north-east of Europe, to which
the underground movements, so disastrous to the rocks of
the central and western tracts of the Continent, had never
reached — a sort of geological elysium, where no volcanoes
had ever broken out, where no "convulsions of nature**
seemed ever to have disturbed the crust of the earth, from
very early geological times ; where the most ancient rocks,
elsewhere heaved up into hard crystalline mountains, lay
still in their original half consolidated state, as if the seas
in which they were laid down had only recently been
drained ofiT. Moreover, they had heard that in these undis-
turbed rocks fossils were found — shells, corals, fishes, very
like, if not the same as, those which they had disinterred
from Silurian, Devonian, or Carboniferous formations at
home. Murchison heard still more about these wonders
during the visit to Paris referred to in the previous Chapter.
Evidently some good work was to be done in that Russian
territory. He might be able among such undisturbed rocks
to demonstrate by a new mass of evidence the order of
sequence already determined in Britain, and to show that
instead of being a mere local arrangement, that order was
really the normal one for Europe, if not for the whole globe.
With De Vemeuil as his companion, the journey would
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1840.] MURCHISON AND VON BUCH. 291
probably at least be an enjoyable one, and that naturalist's
great knowledge of fossils would be of inestimable service.
The plan was accordingly sketched out, and forthwith put
into execution.
The two fellow-travellers started in May from London,
and with no important halt journeyed straight to Berlin. It
was through the German geologists, and notably from Hum-
boldt and Yon Buch,^ that Murchison had learned what he
^ MorchiBon's obligations to Von Bach are weU shown in the subjoined
oharaoteristic letter, which farther iUostrates the estimation in which the
Silarian work of the English geologist was held by the highest geological
authority of Germany : —
** Beruk, 23 Fivrier 1840.
** n est certain, Monsieur, qu'il est facile d'etre savant, et m6me trte
savant, quand on tient une def en main, oomme votre superbe ouvrage.
...» Nous serons done Velches, et les noms de Llandeilo flags et de Cara-
doc nous deviendront tout^i-fait familiers, quoiqu'ils se ressentent an
peu de leor origine montagnarde. Je taohe k les appliquer aux diverses
couches de TAllemagne, avant mdme que vos savantes et laborieuses
reoherches de I'ann^ pass^ nous auront d§voil^ les secrets des mon-
tagnes germaniques ; et certes, il faudrait 6tre sans int^rdt si on ne croy-
ait voir quelque lumi^re, votre ouvrage k la main. Mais, comme une
hultre d*un banc d*Angleterre n'est pas une hultre du Holstein ou dltalie^
quoique de la mdme esp^ce, de m6me j'ai un peu d'appr^hension que
rAUemagne qnoique se pla9ant dans le m6me ordre que vous avez si
savamment 4tabli, pourrait facilement ajouter quelque nom barbare
k votre s^rie des couches, et au contraire voir s*<&vanouir ou Wenlock
Shale, ou Llandeilo, ou quelqu'autre oonche trte bien caract^ris^
Chaque pays porte un caract^re k soi, et de vouloir faire entrer des
couches qui sent caraot^ris^es par des productions qu'on ne retrouve pas
dans un autre systdme de montagnes, de vouloir les faire entrer dans une
case de la s^rie 4tablie me parait vouloir T^tendre dans un lit de Pro-
cruste ....
<* Vos belles figures m*occupent sans oesse, et le voL 2 de votre bible
gtologique ne sort presque pas de mes mains. Avec quelle satisfaction
ne doit on pas voir que vous avez vous m6me ^lair^ la partie difficile
des trilobites I Pl&t au Giel, que d*autres gMogues vouUussent suivre un
si bel exemple, et ne pas abandonner la determination des esp^ces aux
natnralistes de cabinet, qui ne peuvent pas ^tudier les difif(Srentes modifi-
cations des dtres organiques, qu'on observe en place, et qui 4rigent en
esp^ce chaque individu qu'on les pr^sente. ....
** J'avais cru, avant la publication de votre ouvrage, que ces couches du
Nord pourraient bien entrer dans le systtoe Gambrien, — ^je vois depuis
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SIR RODERICK MURGHISON.
[iMO.
knew of Sussian geology. Hence he made for the Frofisian
capital, with the view of gathering together as full notes as
possible of all that was then known on the subject Among
voire envoi que le caractoe Silurien 7 est encore d^cidemment prononc^
par lea Orthit et par les ooranx, depuia le Ludlow joaqu'an Caradoo ; maia
Dieu me garde d'y vouloir reconnaltre un Caradoo limestone^ un Oaradoc
aandatone, un Caradoo shale. Le oort^ de oes Princes doit changer
d'aprte lee locality ei le Toisinage des Diorites, des Hyperites, dea
Oranits donne un aspect bien difliirent auz couches subordonn^es, que
n*ont les couches d'argile et de sable de St. Petersbourg. . . .
^ Le superbe Holoptychius Nobilissimus et les planches qui suivent nous
donnent tout-k-coup Fexplication de tant d*^cailles, qu'on a mtee touIu
adapter k des Mammiftees, et elles nous prouvent qu*en Livonie le Sys-
ttoie D^Tonien est trte d^yelopp^ anx environs de Dorpat et de U Ten
l*£st, jusqu'au centre des coUines de Waldai prte de Novgorod. Ces
couches du Nord s'arrangent k peu prte ainsi.
FormaHion jumuUpu MoyMiM.
Kelloway rock, Oxford day, A PopOani Cr«tt le point UpLua hcirML •» Bnrope on
■or la Windan, A Test de LIImu. lai 66^*. on connaisse oette formation ; elle eet r6-
pandne snr Unite la partie mMdionale des
payi Baltiquea, m6me auz environs de Ber-
lin. Ammonites Jaaon, poUox, polygyntua,
Fecten flbroeos la caract^risent : Gryphea
dHataU. Lee coaches sap^rieoies man-
qnent tot^onrs.
"L—SytUmi CarboMfirt,
Une grande partie des oollines Waldai
depois Novgorod Josqn'A Wolotschosk et le
long dn Wolkov. Le flano de I'Oora] en
Asie antonr de Bogoslavsk 6^*.
Prodnotns comoides, ponctatos, antiqna-
tos, Mya sulcata, Melania ragifera, Spirifer
trapezoidalis, etc— point d'OrthiSw
n.—8y8timt Mxmitn.
Oris de Dorpat i 4cailles d'Holoptychins
et Calcaire avec Terebratola Livonica, d6-
crite et figorfi par moi ; d'lmmenses masses
de Favosites on Choetetes capillaria
Le lac Peipns enest entoar6. Les grands
champignons de Choetetes se retronvent
Jusqn'A Mosooo, pesants des qointaux
entiers.
llLSygtimeaavrimk
Coaches des oollines de St Petershooig,
Selo, Paolowsk, Poloowa, Bsthonie, fklalses
deRevaL
Deax Trilobitee en abondanoe. Jeneles
tronve pas en Angleterre. Des Orthis en
fonle, Je les ai d^crits, sortout Orthis
Panderi, Orthis Pronites on oenomala,
adscandens ; Orthis elegantola, qai est bien
votre canalis ; Orthis radiata, eta . . .
« Continuez, je vous prie, de nous ^olairer et de nous instmire, et comp-
tez sur la recon n aissa n ce de tons ceuz qui prennent quelqu'int^r^ an
globe qu'ils habitent, et snrtout sur oelle de votie ttha d^vou4 serviteur,
"LEOPOLD DK BUOH.''
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1840.] EHRENBERQ. 293
the Mends who lent their assistance were Humboldt, Ehren-
berg, Gustav Rose, Von Dechen, and others. In writing to
Mrs. Morchison, he thus describes some of the interviews
in Berlin: —
'' The morning with Ehrenberg was arranged by Hum-
boldt, who accompanied us, and I never in my life enjoyed
two or three hours more intensely. To have the wonders
of the infusorial creation clearly explained by the dis-
coverer himself, and the whole illuminated by the flashes,
episodes, and general views of ' Der Humboldt,' was enough
to stir up every sympathy of a naturalist We little know,
at least we do not know enough, in England of Ehrenberg^s
immense knowledge. He is not merely a microscopic but a
great philosophic observer. Humboldt places him in a rank
above Cuvier, on account of the superior soundness and
accuracy of his discoveries. . . . Tell Sedgwick that I am
super-saturated with proofs of the correctness of our views,
and that I shall be certain to bring home much grist to our
common nulL"
The following letter gives some further details, and starts
a project which, though proposed so long ago, has never been
put in practice — an international congress of men of all
sciences, superseding for a year the ^usual meetings of such
national gatherings as our own British Association : —
** Berlin, 28<A May 1840.
" My deab Whewkll, — ^Accept a few lines from your
wandering friend. We were too late to catch the Lubeck
steamer, so we consoled ourselves with Berlin, where we have
been for the last three days resting in intellectual and phy-
sical enjoyment with Humboldt, Von Buch, Von Dechen,
G. Bose, Ehrenberg, etc. I have seen and learnt much, and
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294 SIR RODERICK MURGHISON. [i840.
have been so fSted, as * the Silurian monarch/ that it might
well turn the head of any one but an old soldier, who knows
very well how to receive ^kfefw-de-joie.
*' The immediate object of my writing to you is that I
have been your trumpeter, in my best fashion, I hope, with
an 'Sequence vraiment britannique,' in announcing your
forthcoming great work, particularly at a great dSjeAner
given to us this morning by Humboldt I ventured to
mention of what great use your book would be to him before
he launched his ' Cosmos,' and I hope you will send him one
of your first copies, through his relative Baron Biilow. He
expressed great regret at never having made your acquaint-
ance, which feeling I augmented by telling him you were
the English Humboldt.
*' I have long had a project in my mind, which I now
intend to broach, and have indeed done so here. Seeing that
our various national associations prevent the men of all purts
of Europe from meeting each other, I propose that two
years hence, that is, for 1842, each nation should abstain for
a year to have its local meeting, and that we should all con-
gregate in a central town of Europe. Frankfort, the seat of
the Germanic Diet, easily accessible from England, France,
and Italy, appears to me the best spot, and that we should
honour the dose of Humboldt's life by placing him in our
chair. No one is so generally beloved, and no one was evet
his enemy, and he would give us a fine broad philosophic
discourse. If I can [induce] you and one or two strong men
to get up the steam, I am sure it would be a really good
thing, and productive of much real advancement and enjoy-
ment. Write to me. Pension Anglaise, St. Petersburg, and
say what you think of it. I am certain that the British
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iMO.] THE START IN RUSSIA, 296
Association would rejoice to have a year of reldehe after
Manchester, or wherever we may go to next year, and by
having so much time to prepare we could make out an
excellent bill of fare."
With introductions to the authorities at Si Petersburg,
the travellers found their way smoothed for them. To con-
tinue our quotations : — " The chief of the douaniers asked for
' Murchison/ and we had the advantage of having our things
passed and sealed up with the Imperial arms, so that I might
have smuggled a mammoth." Similar good fortune, by the
Mendly aid of the Bussian authorities, awaited them during
the whole of their tour in the dominions of the Czar.
After some preliminary sight-seeing, their plan of work
was arranged, and all preparations completed. Baron A. von
Meyendorf was about to start on a tour through the country
to inquire into the state of manufoctures and trade in the
internal governments. With the view of addiug to the
value of his report, he induced Murchison and De Vemeuil
to accompany him, together with Count A von Keyserling
and Professor Blasius. The Baron's objects, however, were
so different from those of his fellow-travellers, and his rate
of progress through the country so utterly incompatible with
adequate geological observation, that after a few weeks' trial
they had to part company with him. While he rushed for-
ward to complete his statistics, Murchison and De Vemueili
accompanied by KoksharofiT, a young Bussian officer, who has
since done excellent service to Bussian geology and mineralogy^
followed at a more leisurely but still by no means a slow pace.
For about two months they continued on the move. Passing
northwards by the great lakes, they reached Archangel, and
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SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK [imo.
made some explorations along the shores of the White Sea.
Ascending the Dwina, they penetrated into the heart of the
government of Vologda, and sweeping westwards by Nijnii
Novgorod, and the valley of the Volga, reached Moscow,
whence they returned by the Valdai Hills to St Petersburg.
The mode of travelling differed very greatly from any
with which Murchison's previous geological rambles had
made him acquainted. Mounted on a light cal^he, some-
times with five or six horses harnessed to it, he rushed
through the country, over sand, boulders, and bogs, at the
rate of often as much as ten or twelve miles an hour. '' With
four ardent little steeds in hand^ all abreast at the wheels and
two before, conducted by a breechless boy who is threatened
with death if his horse backs or falls, your bearded Jehu
rattles down a slope at a headlong pace, and whirling you
over a broken wooden bridge with the noise of thunder, he
charges the opposite bank in singing ** 60 along, my little
beauties — ^fly on, from mount to mount, from vale to vale, —
'tis you that pull the silver gentleman — (their delicate mode
of suggesting a good tip) ; 'tis you, my dears, shall have fine
pastures," the whole accompanied by grand gyrations of a
solid thong, which ever and anon falls like lead upon the
ribs of the wheelers, followed by screeches which would
stagger a band of Cherokees." ^
It is true that for many a long league such rapid loco-
motion by no means interfered with geological observation,
the ground being so thickly covered with clay or sand that
none of the underlying rocks appeared at the surface;
These monotonous tracts deserved the description which
^ Quarterly Review^ voL Ixyii (1841X p. 360, — an artide by Marchiacm
on the Boatian provinces, with exoerpta from hia own reminiscenoea of
this first journey in that Empire.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1840.] ''ROUOHIXG IT" IN RUSSIA. 297
Sydney Smith had once given to him of Holland, — "the
place of eternal punishment for geologists, all mud, and not
a stone to be found."
Over wide districts of territory there were no inns. The
travellers quartered themselves for the night on some priest
or peasant, sleeping generally on their own " shake-downs ^
upon the floor. Nevertheless, they seem to have escaped
the "creeping and biting horrors" by which such a berth
is usually accompanied. The food being necessarily often
indifferent, at every available place they laid in a new stock
of provisions, among which roast-beef would appear to have
usually had a place. At one wretched village, for instance,
it is noted that " we dined on our portable soup, with an egg
or two, followed by the inside of our roast beef, the exterior
being by this time (therm. 80") in a greenish, mouldy state."
In the towns, however, thanks to the semi-official character
of their journey, better fare and more comfortable quarters
were secured to them. Thus at Archangel, the governor,
together with the English and French consuls, afforded
them much help. "Everything," says Murchison, "was
light and easy, except two great dinners of twenty-five per-
sons each, which we ate in company of Russians, Germans,
Norwegians, French, and English, — all these languages
going a good pace throughout the meals."
One of the pleasantest parts of the journey seems to have
been the luxury of tea-drinking, especially after days of
long, hot, and dusty traveL To sit in a " traktir " and sip
tea " of infinitely finer aroma than the Celestial Emperor will
ever permit to approach the depots of Canton," or in some
forlorn village to set his portable urn agoing, and " at once
command a cup of delicious tea," afforded our traveller a
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298 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [ism
pleasure of which the very remembraiice continued to have
a pleasant aroma about it. We can well imagine, theiefore,
with what appreciative interest, on getting at length to the
great traktir at Moscow, he must '' have counted seventy
neat waiting-men ready to hand you a cup or a chibouk,
and 200 teapots arranged in one of the great vestibules of
those spacious saloons I "^
The journals and letters written during the tour give a
detailed enumeration of the stages, with copious notices of
the geology. The writer seems to have been too busy with
the rocks to have had much leisure to observe, or at least to
describe, what had not a distinct geological bearing. Now
and then, indeed, he does make a note of some social
custom or other non-scientific fietct. Thus, at one of the
villages through which he travelled there had been an
epidemic among the horses, and the ceremony of blessing the
animals ^was going on as he passed "A parish priest in
his robes was chanting in the centre of a group of horses,
whose heads were held around him by various men and
women. We stopped the carriage for an instant to see the
ceremony. After a short prayer (his books lying before him
upon a table) the priest dipped a sort of brush into a bowl
of water which he had consecrated, and turning to each
horse dashed some water in its face, and afterwards on its
flanks. The running back and movement of the horses, the
solemn faces of the peasants, and of their wives and
daughters, who stood aloft on the high steps and balconies of
the cottages, produced a very pleasing subject for the artist^
and I regretted for the hundredth time that I had not a
1 Quart. Review, loa cit p. 365.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1840.] RUSSIAN TEA VEL.
travelliiig friend who could sketch the scenes of life in this
original country.**
For the Russian peasantry he conceived a high admira*
tion, which subsequent travelling in the country only con-
firmed. Their patience^ good-nature, courtesy, readiness of
resource, and cheerfulness, called forth his frequent praises ;
nor less was he satisfied with the intelligence and civility of
the ofBcials with whom he came in contact. He entered
the empire willing to be pleased, and he left it with an
almost enthusiastic appreciation which lasted to the end of
his life.
Long leagues of jolting over rough roads and bjrways
tried at once the patience of the travellers and the timber
of their carriage. Here is an account of their triumphant
entry again into the capital : — " Our near fore- wheel, which
had been for some time very rickety, fell to pieces as we
approached Ijora, so this gave the blacksmith a three
hours' job, whilst we were in a horrid hostelry* Travelling
on at night, we broke down again within a hundred yards
of the post at the gate of Petersburg, and were obliged to
sleep here. The wheel renovated, we started, and it again
became dismembered five hundred yards from the starting-
place. I write this among the Vulcans, doubting if we reach
the capital to-day. « . . At length we reached Mrs. Wilson's,
on our tottering wheels, on Tuesday the 25th August at
Murchison was fond of rapid geological work. With his
faculty of quickly seizing the salient features of the geologi-
cal structure of a country, he liked well to move swiftly
from point to point, eye and note-book busy all the while
noting and recording each point as he went along. During
Digitized by VjOOQIC
300 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [vm.
this first Russian tour there was ample scope for the grati-
fication of this taste. The general structure of the r^ons
visited was simple enough, so that a few traverses and the
examination of sections at comparatively few points, gave
the order and arrangement of the rocks over vast areas of
territory. The difficulties of the task are thus summarized
by him : —
'* Three causes impede geological researches in Northern
Bussia : 1^, The flatness and unbroken surface of the coun-
try ; My The thick cover of drift and alluvium ; and, Mly^
More than anything, the suspicion of the peasants, who never
would give information, inasmuch as they believe that you
are in search of something by which they may be taxed or
oppressed by some order of the Government, or its employisj'
And yet, notwithstanding these scruples, a vast deal of
cross- questioning of the natives went on all through the
journey, sometimes not without good efiect; for, in their
necessarily rapid traverse of the country, the travellers,
having no guide-book literature to help them, trusted to the
natives for information as to sections worthy of visit on
their route. At listing they met the man who had made
the now well-known deep sinkings in the frozen soil of
Yakutsk, in Siberia. Murchison notes, that after a long in-
terrogatory, he learnt that, with the exception of about 60
feet of alluvium, the shaft to the depth of 350 feet was sunk
in hard grey limestone, with partings of shale and coaL
By taking advantage of all available information, and
making good use of their eyes along the line of journey,
the travellers succeeded, in spite of the flatness, and the
interminable sand, day, and boulders, in establishing the
order of the paleozoic formations over a great part of
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1840.] GEOLOGICAL SUCCESSES IN RUSSIA. 301
Northern Bussia. From a lower mass of ancient crystal-
line rocks they had made out a most complete and interest-
ing ascending series of Silurian, Old Bed Sandstone, and
Carboniferous deposits, not hardened, broken, and crumpled
like the corresponding rocks in Britain, but flat, and only
partially consolidated. So young indeed did these truly
ancient deposits appear, that it was difiBcult to realize that
soft blue clays and loose friable limestones were the geolo-
gical equivalents of hard fractured slates and marbles in
Western Europe. Only by recognising in them the charac-
Pterichthys, a Fossil Fish of the Old Red Sandstone of Scotland and Russia.
teristic fossils of the typical districts could their true geolo-
gical horizon be ascertained.
By much the most important observation which they
made was the discovery of the Old Bed Sandstone fishes in
the same beds with true Devonian shells — a discovery the
full import of which will be perceived if we remember the
long and arduous struggle which Sedgwick and Murchison
had had to show that the Devonshire killas answered iu
point of geological time to the Old Bed Sandstone and Con-
glomerate of other districts. " If I had seen nothing more
than this," Murchison writes, " it would have been a great
triumph for myself and Sedgwick. When we contended that
the limestones and sandstones of Devonshire were of the
same age as the Old Bed Sandstone of Scotland, we were met
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302 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [vm.
with this objection, * Show us a fish of the Old Eed in Devon,
or a Devonshire shell in the Old Bed of Scotland.' Here,
then, in Bussia I have solved the problem, for these shells
and these fishes (species for species) are here unquestion-
ably united in the very same flagstones."
A rapid journey homeward brought our traveller back in
time for the meeting of the British Association, which was
held in September in Glasgow. The results of the tour in
relation to the Devonian question had been so unexpectedly
remarkable that he was no doubt anxious to get back to the
Association Meeting, where he would have the opportunity
of announcing his important discovery. While on board the
steamer dropping down the Baltic, he wrote full of glee to
Sedgwick, giving an outline of the journey, and of some of
the more important geological detaila " Our success," he re-
marked, "has been so great that I am of course in very good
humour, which I take the earliest opportunity of conmiuni-
cating to you, hoping that the ' trinitarian ' proofs which the
examination of this vast region has afforded me of the truth
of Devonianism will set you up for the winter, drive away
all acid and gout, and make you ' Adamus redivivus/
" Well or ill, I am sure, however, you will rejoice in the
splendid and unanswerable confirmation of our viewa . • .
Think of my audacity 1 Here I am without a speech to open
the grand congress [at Glasgow], but what I have been
scribbling in the steamer. If this finds you in good health,
send me a bit of a sky-rocket of a finale, with allusions to
Arran, and their coal-fields and their mineral wealth, and
their Watt, and their forty-horse-powers, and you will much
^ He refers to the union in the same strata of the mineral characters
and fossils of the Old Bed Sandstone with the fossils of the Devonian
rocks.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
iMo.] BRITISH ASSOCIATION AT GLASGOW. 303
oblige your friend, who, however he may see all these things
floating before him, has not the same power as you of put-
ting them into attractive form.
*' I am now more on the move than ever, and having
got the eacoethes, I am planning the Ural on one hand, and
the Alleghanies on the other, for nothing short of Conti-
nental masses will now suit my palate.'^
Of the memorably successful meeting of the British
Association in Glasgow in 1840 some notes may be gleaned
from his letters written under the enthusiasm of the time.
Thus, to Dr. Whewell he says — " We never had such good
work as in our geological section ; and I am told by Sabine
that Section A was admirably conducted by Forbes. The
opportune arrival of Enke, Agassiz, and Airey gave a great
brilliancy to our last days. From the Duke of Hamilton,
whose palace has been open daily with dinners of fifty per-
sons, down to my hearty Mend Thomas Edington, there is
but one feeling of satisfactioa It is, I give you my word, the
only meeting which I have attended where nothing has been
done which I could wish altered, save the statistical display ;
all the rest has been done kindly, cordially, and well, which
I very much attribute to the excellent Lord Provost and the
Locals, who have brought together all classes.
"^ Colquhoun's after-dinner speech — a complete smasher
for the Times ; the good, manly, unaffected bearing of our
chief [Marquis of Breadalbane] ; the very good sense shown
by Lord Greenock ; the unbounded joy of my Bussian Mends,
who kissed me on both cheeks, — all these circumstances, not
omitting the glorious day at Arran, when I lectured to a good
band of workmen, with every peak of Gk>atfell illumined, and
marched up at the dose of the day to Brodick Castle with
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304 . SIR RODERICK MURCHJSOX. [mmo.
the heir of the House of Douglas, preceded by the piper —
all these things, I say, have well repaid me for my journey
from Nijnii Novgorod, and have more than confirmed the
anticipations I entertained of the success of the Glasgow
meeting/' To that success Murchison himself contributed
much. Still holding the office of Greneral Secretary, he had
to superintend a vast mass of details which, though separ-
ately insignificant enough, combined to determine the
success or failure of such a meeting. The kindly, genial
President, was not a man of science. Instead of attempting
to prepare a scientific address, he very properly left to the
Greneral Secretaries the task of drawing up a brief sketch of
the progress of science. ''It is my fate," wrote Murchison,
to Whewell, just before the meeting, " to have, in conjunction
with Sabine, to prepare a note of the Eling's speech, to be
read at Glasgow." ^
To this meeting a general interest attaches in the history
of British Geology, inasmuch as it brought into notice and
into personal acquaintance with the geologists of the day .
two men who have since made their mark in the literature
of British Geology — ^Hugh Miller and Andrew Crombie.
Bamsay.
The name of the stone-mason of Cromarty had for some
years been known to geologists who took interest in the
older rocks as that of a diligent and successful collector of
the fossils of the Old Bed Sandstone of the north of Scotland.^
He had recently come to Edinburgh as editor of a news-
paper. In the columns of that journal he had begun to
publish sketches of the structure of the strange fishes which,
^ The project of an intemational congress of science is publicly proposed
in this address. See Bep, Brit. Aswe., voL for 1840, p. zlvii.
> See ante, p. 257.
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M40.] HUGH MILLER AND A. C. RAMSAY. 805
he had disinterred, and graphic pictures of the scenery and
geology of the Cromarty coast-line. These contributions
had abready attracted the notice of some of the leading
geologists of the day. Hence a kindly and appreciative
welcome greeted MiUer^s personal entrance into the ranks.
The cordiality of his reception was shown by none more than
by Murchison, who, indeed, had been largely instrumental in
bringing him forward, and to whom he next year gracefully
acknowledged his gratitude by dedicating to the author of
the ''Silurian System" the volume into which the news-
paper articles grew — ^the charming and classic "Old Bed
Sandstone."
Mr. Bamsay was then a young man, who, betaking him-
self to Arran, had scoured its glens, hill-sides, and shores, and
made a large geological map and model of the island. These
he exhibited at the British Association meeting, accompany-
ing them with an explanatory paper. His work showed him
to possess in so eminent a degree the qualities out of which
a good field-geologist is made, that Murchison was greatly
impressed with his capacity, and proposed to take him abroad
with him in the following year. Though that determinatioii
was not carried out, it led directly, as we shall see, to Mr.
Bamsay's joining the G^logical Survey, and thus opened
up for him the path by which he has risen to distinction.
Sedgwick did not appear at this meeting ; indeed, he had
become so remiss in his attendance at the gatherings of the
Association as to suggest that he meant to retire from it
altogether. His presence was missed during some of the
discussions in the Geological Section, for an observant eye
might now have perceived the first speck forming of that
dark cloud which, slowly gathering year after year, finally
VOL. L V
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806 SIB RODERICK MURCHISOK \vm.
blighted all his close friendship with Murchison, and led
him to retire from the society which he had brightened for
so many years. Immediately after the meeting Murchison
sent him a letter containing some account of what had
been done. That letter has a special interest in connexion
with future events. It serves too to show the active part
its writer took in the management of the Association, as
well as his characteristic regard for high social position : —
'< WisHAW House, BepL 26, 1840.
"My dear S., — Our Glasgow meeting has been alto-
gether the most suocessfal that could have been desired . . .
" I was compelled to take a strong measure, but one of
which I know you will heartily approve, in putting Whe-
well in nomination as our next President, for the Plymouth
meeting. I say a strong measure, because on my broaching
it to him he wrote me a letter of four sides (just before he
left us, and in the middle of the meeting) to show that he
was in every respect disqualified. Such, however, was not
the opinion of a single person here whom I consulted, and
I therefore went on, and he was elected by acclamation,
nem. diss. It appeared that the Manchester folks rather
wished to have us in 1842 than in 1841, so we were sud-
denly thrown upon Devon. To carry out the principles of
alternation alluded to in my opening address (which I send
you), it was essential to have a man of science at our head.
So the staff of science for that meeting are, Whewell, Pres. ;
Snow Harris, Hamilton Smith, and Were Fox, Secretaries;
and four men of local weight and family to balance them
as V.-P.S — Sir C. Lemon, Sir T. Acland, Lord Morley, and
Lord Eliot
*' Agassiz's arrival was very opportune, for he confirmed
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1840.] BRITISH ASSOCIATION AT GLASGOW. 30.7
the identification of the Bussian and Scottish fishe& I
also resolved to pull out Hugh Miller of Cromarty, and
other Scotsmen of the north, and on the last day I gave an
eapoai of all that you and myself did in the beginning of
this foray, and held up our sections and our Dipteri. Agassiz
followed, and ended by naming the curious new winged
creature PtericfUhys MUleri.
'^ Agassiz gave us a great field-day on Glaciers, and I
think we shall end in having a compromise between him-
self and us of the floating icebergs ! I spoke against the
general application of his theory.
"Mr. Bowman's memoir contained some good details.^
.... I explained that the outline between Cambrian and
Silurian in that region [North Wales], as inserted by your-
self in my map, was done without Ordnance maps, and
merely to serve as an approximation; that both you and
myself were aware of the age of the beds in the Vale of
Llangollen, and that some day or other you would roll out
what had been for many years in your head and wallet
De la Beche and Phillips pressed me about the natural line
of separation between S. and C, on which I replied as
in my book, that in many parts a fixed line of demarcation
was impossible, but that I was convinced that to whatever
extent the same species of fossils as in the Lower Silurian
strata descended into your upper group, you could show
^ The paper referred to here was one ia which its aathor gave the
result of some traverses which he had made across the supposed boundary-
line between the Cambrian and Silurian tracts of North Wales. He
oould find no fossils in the so-called Cambrian rocks differing from those
of the Lower Silurian series, and stated that " if there be any boundary
between the Upper Cambrian and Lower Silurian systems, it must be
defined by other evidence than that of fossils." — BrU, Assoc. ReporU^
1840, Sections, p. 102.
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808 3IR RODEHICK MURCHISON. [im
the existence — indeed, that you had already done so both
in Wales and Cumberland — of vast masses of much higher
antiquity which must have a distinguishing nsmie."
After all the scientific and social work of the Association
Meeting at Glasgow had been successfully c<Mnpleted there
began another series of hospitalities. Kot a few of the landed
proprietors, specially those who had taken part in the gather-
ing, invited the more prominent members of the Association
to visit them. In this way Murchison and his wife found
themselves once more in the heart of the Highlands, enjoying
the scenery and good cheer of that region. From Lord Brea-
dalbane the General Secretary had some deer-staUdng at the
old homely shieling of the Black Mount ; but part of the
journey was planned to include a visit to the north of Scot-
land, with Agassiz, to look after the Old Bed Sandstone and
its fishes. By the 29th of October he had reached Alnwick
Castle on his homeward journey, whence he writes to Sir
Philip Egerton : — " I believe if I consulted my own happiness
I should do nothing but visit till Christmas, but this must
not be. Work must be revised, and I have an overwhelming
mass to reduce to order, which if not done before ^the big
wen' begins to fill will never be done. So I have resolved
even to give my old friends of the North Biding the go-by,
and to stick to the east coast, finishing with Cambridge, and
reaching Somerset House in time for our second meeting in
November. If you have not been firost-bitten by Buckland
you have at all events had plenty of friction, scratching, and
polishing, before now, and next year you may give us a paper
on the glaciers of Wyvis and the ' moraines' on which you
sport I I intend to make fight"
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Digitized by VjOOQIC
To f'lct pagr 309.
REV PROFESSOR BUCKT.AND. D.D.. F.R.8.
E inippri] n< a " GIticiaUsi" fifim a akd'-h hy Thns. .it^pirith, E:i'j.
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1840.] OLACIATION OF BRITAIN. 309
The '' frost-biting " referred to the remarkable series
of observations bj Agassiz among the glaciers of the
Alps, and the extension of them to Scotlcmd by Buck-
land, Lyell, and Agassiz himsel£ Many years earlier Sir
James Hall had directed attention to the way in which the
rocks on the surface of the country had been smoothed,
polished, and striated, by some great natural agent He made
a careful examination of these ** dressed rocks," attributing
them to the effects of some powerful d^b&cles or earthquake-
waves, sweeping over the land and hurrying along sand,
gravel, and huge loose blocks and boulders. A study of
the phenomena of the Swiss valleys, however, had taught
Charpentier, and afterwards Agassiz, that the smoothing and
scratching of the rocks could have been the work of but one
agent — glacier-ice.* Profiting by Swiss experience. Buck-
land had akeady begun to identify some of Hall's " dressed
rocks'" and other superficial phenomena, as strictly parallel
with those among the Alpine valleys and plains. And now,
in the autumn of tins year, the great Swiss naturalist, who
had come to Scotland chiefly to study Old Bed Sandstone
fishes, found eveiywhere, to Ins amazement, the counterparts
of the ice- worn rocks and glacier d^ris which he had been
so intently looking at among his own great mountains. He
not merely corroborated Dr. Buckland's identifications, but
went so far as to proclaim that Scotland, the north of Eng-
land, and indeed a great part of the northern hemisphere,
bad once been actually buried under vast sheets of ice.
So bold and startling a doctrine involved an intimate
1 It is common to attribute the first observation of this geological
agency of glaciers to Agassiz. It was recorded by Cbarpentier, however,
apparently as a known fact, five years before Agassi2*s observations
appeared. — AnnaU$ des Mme$, 1835, riii
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810 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [im.
acquaintance with the everyday life and motions of a glacier,
which at that time British geologists did not possess. Con-
sequently the views of Agassiz met with little favour. The
opposition which Murchison promised them was joined in
vigorously by other scientific leaders. Hence fully twenty
years had to pass, and a new generation of labourers had to
appear upon the scene, before the essential truth of Agassiz's
teeu^hing was generally recognised.^
But pleasant and useful though this Scotch tour proved
to the busy General Secretary, it formed only a kind of
interlude in the serious task of interpreting the geological
structure of the older rocks of Bussia. As he said himself,
he had returned from the shores of the White Sea to take his
place in the Association at Glasgow. Hence, when once
more back amongst his note-books and maps in London, he
returned heart and soul to Bussian geology. While the
incidents of travel remained still fresh in his recollection
he wrote the article (already referred to) for the March
number of the Quarterly Review^ on ** Tours in the Bussian
Provincea" While reviewing the works of recent travellers
in that part of Europe he reveals, in a characteristic way,
his own identity. For there must have been few readers of
the gossipy article who did not perceive that its author had
been with Moore in Spain and Portugal, that he had sub-
sequently dabbled in art at Bome, that he retained a senti-
mental affection for the old Highland Jacobites and the doings
of those who were ''out iu the '15," that he was addicted
to geological pursuits, that he had spent the preceding sum-
mer doing geological work in the north of Bussia, and that,
^ See a memoir on the Glacial Drift of Scotland, Tran9. OeoL Soc
OUugow, ToL L Fart 2.
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1840-41.] PLAN OF TOUR TO THE URALS. 311
in short, he could be no other than Boderick Impey Murchi-
son, though under a somewhat different guise from that in
which he was ordinarily known.
The more serious work of this winter appears to have
consisted partly in the preparation of the memoir on the
continental Devonian rocks with Sedgwick (and, of course,
with the repetition of delay at Cambridge and urgent
entreaty from London), but mainly in drawing up an
account of the Bussian journey for the Geological Society.
This latter task helped to indicate more clearly the points
of defective knowledge which were to be cleared up by the
next tour.
That tour had been partly planned before he and his
companion, De Yemeuil, had left Bussia. It was heartily
entered into by the Bussian authorities, from whom, indeed,
Murchison received a flattering request to continue his
labours, with the promise of ample assistance. He deter-
mined to avail himself of these offers, and strike across the
Bussian Empire, into the heart of the Ural Mountains. So
long and arduous a survey was evidently one which could
not be accomplished in a short summer holiday. It would
require longer time and more endurance than that of the
previous year.
Two Societies claimed and certainly received Murchison's
firmest allegiance— the Geological Society, and the British
Association. His proposed absence from this country, how-
ever, altered considerably his relations to both, and he
accordingly made up his mind to resign the post of General
Secretary to the British Association. In intimating this
design to the President, Dr. Whewell, he could justify his
absence this year by the importance of the work he had
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312 SIB RODERICK MURCHISON. [iwi.
undertaken abroad, as well as by the fact that he had not
hitherto failed to take his share of work at every meeting
of the Association since its foundation, and he concluded his
letter with the assurance, that when the 29th of July came
round, he would not foi^ the gathering to be held then at
Plymouth under Whewell's leadership, but would ** drink to
their healths if any liquor can be had in the Ural Moun^
tains."
Things had turned out otherwise at the Geological
Society, for there, at their anniversary in February, and with
the knowledge that he would be absent from England duru
iug the greater part of the year, his associates once more
placed Murchison in the President's chair, and sent him on
his self-imposed tiavel with all the prestige which such a
post of honour carries with it.
As already mentioned, he had formed a wish to help the
young geologist who had shown so much geological skill by
his model and description of Arran, and that wish had to
some extent taken practical shape in a plan to cany Mr.
Bamsay abroad with him. The latter, accordingly, came to
London about the middle of March ; but at the last moment
the proposed plan of conjoint travel was changed This
change, at first so bitterly disappointing to his young friend
and future colleague, but in the end so fraught with benefit
to both, was thus announced by Murchison at the time : — ^
'' Having decided upon going to Bussia^ and not to America
(and I shall be off in ten days), I have unwillingly given up
the idea of taking you with 'me; but, in doing so, I have
secured for you a much more lucrative place than any which
I could have ofiered you about myself. Mr. De la Beche
has kindly promised to place you on his Ust of assistants of
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i»ii.] OEOLOQICAL CLUB DINNERS. 318
tlie Ordnanee Qeologioal Surrey. As the work in question
is one for which you are particularly fitted, I hope you will
approve of my endeavours to serve you*"
Mr. Bamsay has kindly famished the following reminis-
c^ices of these early days of his intercourse with his future
chief: — ''I think I must have dined five or six times with
Mr. M. during my thirteen days' stay in London ; once at the
Qeologioal Club, at the Crown and Anchor by Temple Bar,
where I first met some of the great geologists whom I had
not previously seen in Glasgow at the B. A. meeting. Mr.
M. introduced me specially to old John Taylor, a famous
man in the mining world, and much respected and beloved
by all the geologists, and indeed by every one. He was
treasurer to the Club. I sat between him and Major Clerke
— an old warrior, with a cork 1^, a man of perfectly polished
manner, witty, and with a vast fund of anecdotes, some
of which were of the complexion called blue. At that Club
meeting, I recollect Sedgwick and Buckland, Phillips,
Greenough, Fitton, Lyell, Sopwith, and Owen, and there
were others that I forget Forbes was then a young man
just on the eve of starting to join Graves in the .£gean.
The dinner made a great impression on me. Mr. M., as
President of the Society, was in the chair, but I do not
recollect anything that took place except the mirth created
at our end of the table by Major Clerke and old John
TayWs deep voice and pleasant laugL" A few days after
that dinner the President was on his way to Bussia, while
his friend joined the Geological Survey at Tenby, there
to b^in a long and distinguished connexion with that
branch of the public service, of which he is now the honoured
and esteemed chief.
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dU SIB RODERICK MURCHI80K [iwi.
Two days before starting Murchison sent a parting note
to Sedgwick, in which he wrote : — '^ To cleanse an Augean
stable filled with Bhenish, Grerman, and Bnssian fossils, and
to leave the home of the British Association clean swept
and all in order, has been no light work for the last fort-
night. To make the map for our memoir gave me no small
trouble, but now all is done, and the whole concern is
ready to go to press, if the Council does not turn crotchety
and puzzle-headed. If they do, we must publish elsewhere
without loss of time, for the data are good. ... I am off
the day after to-morrow. .... God bless you. Go to
Plymouth and fight my battles. It is now your turn."
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CHAPTER XV.
CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN RUSSIA AND THE URAL MOUNTAINS.
It was with a more ambitious programme, and with the
advantage of the previous yearns experience of the country,
that Murchison once more, in the spring of 1841, bent his
steps to the Neva. De Yemeuil again accompanied him,
and shared in the honours and the toils of a still more
eventful and successful campaign than any which they had
yet undertaken together. The two friends had grown dear
to each other. But apart from the ties of mutual esteem,
they presented a singularly happy conjunction of qua-
lities for their special scientific work. Murchison's quick
eye in detecting the leading elements of geological structure
would have been of comparatively minor value without
De Vemeuil's wide knowledge of the early forms of life,
on the determination of which the comparison of the rocks
yet unvisited with others already well known was mainly
to be based. In their Russian colleague von Keyserling
they found an admirable travelling companion, and one to
whose judgment and powers of observation the success of their
coigoint work in the empire of the Czar was largely indebted.
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316 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK [\m.
The route chosen, as before, lay by Paris and Berlin.
During a short halt at Paris Murchison had an opportunity
of gathering the opinions of the geologists there as to the
work which Sedgwick and he had been doing in Devonshire
and Bhineland. He lost no time in letting his friend
know the result " Every one here/' he writes, " is most
anxious for the appearance of our memoir, as well as
Dumont and the Belgians. .... Whatever dubiety may
shroud the minds of some of our countrymen, the thing
is already quite done as to the Continent All the palae-
ontologists are with us, and I am happy to teU you I saw
yesterday in £lie de Beaumont's closet the copperplates
of the table of colours of the great map of France, in
which Devonian, Silurian, and Cambrian are all r^;ularly
engraved.
" As you are going to Plymouth this year, I b^ you
will look about you both inside and outside of the Seo^
tion C It may be the object of and
to mystify our divisiona But stand to yowr ^ns. The
types are clear and distinct, and beds of passage are not
to frighten us. ... It would gratify me much if you could
devote an hour to me immediately after the Plymouth meet-
ing, and tell me how all went off ... . The geolc^cal
sight here is the Artesian fountain at Grenelle, which I
visited yesterday. It is a noble rush of smoking water —
quite a comfortable tepid batL Portez-vous bien, my dear
friend. Think of me when I am in Siberia, as I shall think
of you holding forth on the Breakwater ; and wishing you a
happy meeting, and an absence of all gout, believe me," etc
There would seem to have been only one incident of note
in the early part of the journey : Murchison and De Vemeuil
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1841.] ST. PETERSBURG. 817
were all but arrested, in entering the Prussian territories, on
the chaige of issuing fiEilse notes, which they had unwittingly
obtained at Paris. They were helped out of the difficulty by
Humboldt Such portions of their short stay at Berlin as
could be spared from the hospitalities abundantly offered to
them by their German scientific brethren, were devoted to
the acquisition of additional information as to what was
known of Bussian geology. They arrived at St Petersburg
on the 30th of April
The Bussian capital was at that time full of bustle and
excitement, on the occasion of the marriage of the eldest
son and heir of the Emperor Nicholas. A magnificent series
of fStes bad been organized to celebrate the event. Our
geologists had determined to see these sights before b^in-
tiing their work. Besides, Murchison looked forward to
obtaining considerable official assistance for his survey. He
judged it a good stroke of policy to make the acquaintance of
as many of the leading ministers and heads of departments
as possibla At the British Embassy he met many old
acquaintances, and made not a few new ones, obtaining like-
wise the much-coveted invitation to the Imperial Palace.
How these days of festival were spent is best toid in his
^tters to his wife : —
^ The last few days have given us pleasant dinners, at
Lord Glanricarde's, at the French Ambassador's, at General
TchefiFkine's, where we settled our line of march, at the Minis-
ter of Finance's, Count Cancrine, and, yesterday, at Prince
Butera's. The last was the most sumptuous of all these
feeds, many Circassian lacqueys, and mushrooms in every
dish. From Oeneral Kisselefif, the Minister of the Imperial
Domains, I had a history of the successive deniidations of the
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318 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [wfl.
wood of each region of Bossia, and how each denudation had
proceeded from south to north. Herodotus describes the
r^ons bordering on Turkey, now grassy steppes, as dense
forests. This being for centuries the great line of march
of Tartars and Easterns towards Europe, was cleared first ;
secondly, a middle region, half wood, half arable, as at Mos-
cow, etc. ; thirdly, the present forest region, all in the north.*
** The event which charmed me was the great Court ball
of Wednesday, on the occasion of the marriage, to which we
were invited by his Majesty's order. The entrances to the
wonderful Winter Palace are so numerous that you are not
surprised when you perceive how a thousand star-and-gartered
eminences aud weU-dressed women have all within an hour
found their way into the ' Salle Blancha' The whole of this
exquisite Palace being re-built and re-gilt, it is now in fall
beauty, and the blaze of light, the elegance of the candelabras,
and the masses of gold, quite rivet attention. We have no
notion of lighting, and I now understand the criticism of the
foreigners who attended our Coronation.
"We waited for our presentation, which took place in about
half an hour, when the Emperor came up to Lord Clanricarde,
and asked for me, saying to me, ' You have travelled a great
deal in our country, and intend to do so again.' On my
thanking his Majesty for the kindness of my reception, he
cut me short by saying, * C'est k vous que nous devons noe
remerciments profonds de venir parmi nous pour nous ^daircir
et de nous dtre si utile. Je vous prie d'accepter mon per-
sonnel,' etc. He then asked if that was not my companion
near me, and De Yemeuil had his talk ; but my excellent
Mend being short-sighted, had mistaken the Emperor, so that
when his Mcgesty left us, De V. turned to me coolly and
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184L] THE EMPEROR NICHOLAS I. 31?
said, ' Eh bien ! c'est un homme tr^ agitable que oe Grand
Due.' ' Mais c'est TEmpereur, mon cher ! '
" It was however iu the advanced part of the evening that
I really became intimate with the Czar. I had glided through
all the apartments, and was seated in converse with Count
Strogonoif, when the Emperor appeared, and we were all on
foot. He selected me, and leaning against a pilaster began
a r^ular conversation, asking me my opinion on various parts
of the country. After I had told him where I had been, he
said, ' Great traveller as I am, you have already seen large
tracts of my country which I have never visited.' He then
got me to open out upon my own hobby, and put me quite at
home ; I ventured on my first endeavour at explanation, by
stating how dearly I was interested in the structure of a
country the whole northern region of which was made up of
strata which I had spent so many years in classifying and
arranging in other parts of Europe ; how their vast scale in
Kussia had surprised me, and how they offered evidences which
were wanting in the western countries. We then talked of
coal, and I ventured on a geological lecture in order to ex-
plain where coal would not be found, the uses of our science,
eta I ushered it in by saying that I was certain that his
Majesty liked to know the truth, and my honest opinion, and
he instantly said, 'Surtout, parlez franchement' Having
given him the Silurian reasons against any coal deposits
worthy of the name in any of the very ancient rocks on which
his metropolis was situated, and a general view of the A B C,
to all of which he listened most attentively, I then comforted
him about the great coal-field of the Donetz, in Southern
Kussia, to which I was destined to go. 'Coal,' I said, 'was to be
looked fpr in the south, and not in the north, which seined
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820 aiR RODERICK MURGHiaON. [im.
a providential arrangement, as the forests were stiU plentiful
in the latter, but annihilated in the former tracts. ' Ah 1 ' said
he, 'but how we have wasted our forests 1 What disorder and
irregularity has existed I It is high time to put a stop to
such practices, or Gtod knows what would have been the state
of the Empire, even under the reign of my son 1 ' I then
offered a few words in favour of tiie Grown peasants of the
north, against whom the wood-cutting remark was directed,
and spoke of their intelligence, honesty, and the absence of
all great crimes, and how it had astonished us to travel through
so wide a space, sleeping with our docnrs open, and in lofts or
where we could, without being robbed, and in tracts where
no soldiers or police existed. ^ Oh ! ' added he, ^ we are not
however so savage as to allow such things.'
** After asking what was to be the length of our next toui^
and what we hoped to find out and see, he desired me to
express every wish to his officers, and all my wants should
be supplied.
'' He inquired about my former career, in what arms I had
served, where and when, whether I was married, whether my
wife ever came with ma On my saying that the day was
when you were always at my side, and sketched and worked
for me, he added, ' Cost ainsi avec ma femme, mais h^las sa
sant^ ne le permet plus, eUe a eu quinze couches.* Thus he
chatted away, and talked of his children, and the happiness
of his social circla
** On my saying that I had served in infiEmtry, cavalry, and
staff in Portugal, Spain, and Sicily, his Majesty evident^
took to me, for he said that his doctrine always had been that
the army was the best school for every profession, and he
was right glad to see that it made a good geologist I then
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1841.] THE EMPEROR NICHOLAS I. 321
expressed how strong a desire I had to see the Kussian army,
adding that I had been out at six in the morning in the
Champ de Mars/ and had already seen his Majesty working
some regiments of cavalry. ' What 1 ' said he, ' talk of that
morning drill ; we were all dirty and not fit to be seen :
to-morrow you shall see us better/ And then calling (General
BenhendorfiT, * Donnez un bon cheval k M. Murchison pour
la Grande Parade/ He then added, ' Mais c'est ik Moscou
que Yous deviez nous voir panni nos enfants — c'est ainsi
que rimp^ratrice et moi nous appelons nos Kusses.'
'' He talked with favour of his good English Mends, and
how well they had always served him. 'Alasl' said he,
' we have just lost two in the space of a few days, and on
Friday we bury Admiral ^ an excellent officer and a
very brave man, whom I greatly regret/
^ Two days had passed, and amidst n^ thousand occupa-
tions I had forgotten the Emperor's words. On Friday
morning; when in my diessing-gown, d la Russe, at break-
fast, the son of old Mrs. Wilson, our landlady, rushed in ex-
claiming; 'La, mother, only think of itl At eight o'clock
the Emperor came in a single drosky to the English Church,
and had to wait I know not how long before the parson came,
and then he went through all the ceremony/ The old Ad-
miral, being a Protestant, was buried in a vault under the
English Church. I then bemoaned my want of tact in not
having had my uniform on and ready at the church to meet
the great man who thus honoured the memory of my coun-
tryman."
The letters and diaries written by our traveller at this
season of rejoicing contain records of little else than the
names of the great folks at whose houses he dined, or whom
V0L.L X
Digitized by VjOOQIC
322 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOHT. \\m.
he met at the Imperial entertainmenta During the day he
seems to have found time for an occasional interview with
some of the scientific men of St. Petersburg, and for desul-
tory preparation for his journey. But evidently courtiers
and court life had for the time quite dispossessed geologists
and geology in the attentions of the author of the " Silurian
System." At the beginning of the week following that in
which he had made the acquaintance of the Czar and Impe-
rial family, he attended a ball given by the newly married
Czarewitch. From his reminiscences of that evening a few
sentences may be quoted.
^ The Emperor talked to me again, asking me what I had
been doing this morning. 'Four hours,' said he, 'at the
School of Mines, and two hours with Professor Eichwald !
Why, you will quite tire yourself before you set out on your
long journey. You must have good stout legs,' he continued,
passing his hand at the same time to the side of my thigh,
which he pinched. He then discoursed of discipline, system,
etc., and alluding to the review of the morrow, he observed,
' You will see three of my sons in the corps of the cadets.*
'The Grand Duke Constantine will, I suppose, command
them?' said L 'Commandl' replied he. 'No, indeed! he
will not even be in the front rank of privates; he is yet
too young. The little fellow has plenty of talent, but
requires to be kept in order. We must have a good bridle
on him for some time to come.' His Majesty agaiii spoke to
me with gratitude concerning my labours, and said he had
no doubt my success in my present profession was mainly
due to my old military education, which he thought was the
best school for all men.
" The balls, parties, and reviews attendant on the Imperial
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1841.] START FROM ST. PETERSBURG. 323
marriage being over, it was time to take to real work, and to
b^n the geological researches on the grand scale which had
been devised through the departmental activity of General
Tcheffkine, then serving under the Minister of Finance,
Cancrine, and being chief of the School of Mines."
Count von Keyserling was named by the Imperial Govern-
ment as one of the geologists of the expedition, with the in-
valuable Lieutenant Koksharof, who was again appointed to
accompany the travellers, and smooth their way for them.
The plan of operations embraced a series of traverses of the
vast central and southern provinces of the empire, together
with as fall an examination as could be made of the chain
of the Ural Mountains. The party was to divide for short
periods, and meet again at given points, to compare and con-
tinue its observations, with the expectation of being able, per-
haps, to concentrate the work of even two summers into one.
''All our inspections of collections, schools of mines,
academies, eta, being over, and our notebooks filled with
memoranda of things to be seen in Bussia in Europe and the
Ural Mountains, there was still one grand public f^te to be
witnessed. The Emperor, as Cancrine had reminded me,
had asked me to see him among his true Bussians at Mos-
cow. But this was not to take place for a fortnight^ and in
that time the geological division under my orders might
effect much. So we galloped away to Moscow."
Their object was to examine the various outcrops of
limestone and thin seams of coal south of Moscow — a task
which was successfully accomplished without any note-
worthy incident Up and away to their labours, sometimes
by three o'clock in the morning, the travellers contrived to
get over a goodly number of leagues of country, and, rattling
Digitized by VjOOQIC
324 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [mL
over the ground in their tilega, to raise many a tiiick cloud
of dust from the "Tchomaia Zemlia" or black>ear& of the
Bussian plains, so that they returned to Moscow in a sadly-
berimed condition, but in time for the £§tes.
" The great event of the Emperor presenting the heir-
apparent to his people was about to c(Hne o£ At 10 A.M.
we drove to the Kremlin. We were ushered through crowds
of Bussian officers in the palace, and eventually found our
way to the top of the building. I was an the balcony, dose
to the room whence the Empercw issued. He observed me,
and nodded to me. At 11 he issued «n foot and descended
the steps in full Cossack dress to the Grande Place, which
he had to cross to reach the great «hurch, and at least
20,060 persons now filled it A veiy nanow way had been
formed up to this moment, but wh^i the great beE tolled
and Nicholas issued forth to the threshold, all line was
broken, and the crowd presented itself in one dense mass
before him like a wall He stepped down towarda them,
and some touching his clothes, others his hasids, he waved
his hand gently up and down, and the dense mass opened
out before him. like a wedge he worked his way through
the ctdoring multitude, who were clinging TOund his legs
and touching his clothes. . . ' .
" Profiting by Demidoflfs kindness, by half-past twelve
we finally stormed the Kremlin, and forced on auto the
central tower, where we placed the niece of Napoleon [the
Princess Mathilde] between De Yemeuil and myseli^ like a
Princess of the Kremlin, M. Demidoff acting as her Bussian
marito, and we as her French and English aides-de-^camp.
We were destined to wait for the great sight^tn hour or two,
during which excellent sandwiches and good Madeira and
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
1841.] FESTIVITIES AT MOSCOW. 326
sheny, and the Fiench conversation, full of naive and
sparkling sallies from the daughter of Jerome, made us pass
the time most agreeably. At length the cortege arrived — ^the
good Marie in her caltehe and four greys, the Emperor on
her right hand, her brothers on the left, and the Grand Duke
H^ritier passing close along the line of troops. When they
entered the Holy Gate of the Kreinlin, the sight of course
closed for us.
"^ As we descended the staircase, thinking all sights were
over, the attendants stopped us at a doorway, and, in an
instant, the Emperor, with the Grand Duchess on his arm,
passed within a few paces of us. He at once recognised us
with a gracioi2& nod. Of this I should not have felt so cer-
tain if Count Benbendorff had not told me two hours after-
wards that his Majesty had informed him of our position.
Nicholas's eye is ererywhere, and long may it be so !
" Count Benh^idOTffgave us an account of the Imperial
reception. At Bibinsk — a thriving commercial town on the
Volga, with 30,000 inhabitants — ^it appears that the people
who had never seen the Emperor kept up such a roar under
the Imperial residence, that at last, when midnight came, they
were requested to allow the Emperor to sleep. The hint
was no sooner given than obeyed. But what followed?
Not a man slunk sulkily away ; the loyal mass lay down and
slept at their posts till the return of day was ushered in by
a general dhanticleer from those sturdy monarch- loving Mus-
covite& Well then may Nicholas exclaim, 'These good
people are not yet so advanced as to have learnt not to love
their sovereign ' — ^words which he used to me in speaking of
the Bussians of the interior.
*" Benhendorfif also informed me that the horse-artillery
Digitized by VjOOQIC
326 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [i«4l
wliichwe saw this morning had marched 110 versts the
day before, Le, seventy miles ! This beats the famous march
of the old Fourth Dragoons, my father-in-law, General
Hugonin's regiment, which marched from Canterbury to
London in a day, and acted that evening in the Borough in
quelling one of the Lord (Jeorge Gordon riots in 1784."
But it was now time to doff uniforms and court-dresses,
and take to the more homely garb of travelling geologists.
Murchison and his Mends had planned their journey in such
a way that it should comprise many minor lateral excur-
sions, and they now proceeded to put the plan into execu-
tion. Starting from Moscow, they crossed Uie empire by
Vladimir, Easan, and Perm into the Ural Mountains, and
the edge of the vast steppes of Siberia. From these remote
bounds they turned southwards to explore the southern
Urals as far as Orsk, whence, bending their course once more
in a westerly direction, they passed through Orenburg, re-
crossing the Volga at Sarepta, traversing the country of the
Don Cossacks to the Sea of Azov, and then turning north-
ward to make another traverse of the empire back by
Moscow to St Petersburg.
Five busy months passed away in these journeys. Mur-
chison kept as usual a fall diary. Being mainly geological,
his memoranda were subsequently elaborated into the great
work on '' Bussia and the Ural Mountains.'' But among
them occur records of incidents of travel and other notes,
which give us glimpses of the scenery and people among
whom he lived, and of the way in which this extensive and
rapid survey of the Russian domains was achieved.
As on the previous journey, the main highways of the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1841.] THE START FROM MOSCOW. 327
country were followed. Provided with a formidable Imperial
document^ countersigned and double-sealed to enforce atten-
tion from all persons in authority along their route, the
travellers had usually little difiSculty in procuring horses at
the stations. In most cases, indeed, the chief dignitary of
each place waited on them personally, and in not a few in-
stances treated them with the frankest hospitality. The
kindness which Murchison experienced in this way even in
the wildest tracts of the empire, filled him with that deep
affection for Bussia and the Russians which used to show
itself continually all through his life. But neither Imperial
ukase nor kindly proffered assistance could wholly over-
come the natural difficulties of the country. The geologists
had made up their mind to a good deal of rough fare and
sorry lodging, nor in these respects were their prognostica-
tions unrealized.
During the earlier part of the journey through Vladimir,
Nijnii Novgorod, and Kazan, there was little either in the
geology or the scenery to delay the expedition. Murchison,
indeed, seems to have got so disgusted with the interminable
red sandstones and marls as to break out into some doggerel
lines in French, that being the language which was now his
only mode of communication with his travelling companions
and the natives of the country. These rocks were not yet
understood by him. He became proud enough of them before
long; for they furnished to him the type of a new geological
subdivision, to which, fix)m the province where they were so
well developed, he gave the name of " Permiaa"
In spite of these tedious red rocks, Kazan afforded some
interest The fat jolly Vice-Govemor had instructions to look
well after the travellers, and it would appear that he did his
Digitized by VjOOQIC
328 SIR RODERICK MURCUISON. [iMi.
bdst In their honour he donned his full uniform^ white
laced hat, and numerous orders, and arrived at their inn with
the determination that they should see eveiything in Kazan
forthwith. In vain they explained that one of the Professors
had already kindly offered to escort them through the collec-
tions of the University. What ! had he not received the
Imperial command to look after them himself? and besides,
had he not been a sailor in the dajrs of the old war, when
the British and Bussian fleets were allied, and did he not
still remember a few broken words of English — ** I beg you,
sare," * ver much wind,** etc ! He would show them the
collections, and everything and everybody too. De Vemeuil
and von Keyserling had made a detour. Murchison, therefore,
under the supervision of the Vice-Govemor,. took further
notes for the Ural Survey from the specimens and informa-
tion obtainable from the Professors, and attended sundiy
feasts into which the exuberant hospitality of Kazan broke
out When the party reunited, and all was ready for the
march again, the Yice-Govemor must needs give one £Bu:e-
well banquet. ** We sat down," Murchison writes, " forty-
five in a small room, and the yice-€k)vemor was quite
charming with his old sailor-loves of 'SaUy Cox' and
' Mary Dickenson ' when in England.''
Over many leagues of red rocks the party journeyed
through the government of Penn towards the long low
ridges of the Urals. They passed on the way a gang of
manacled prisoners bound for Siberia, to whom, amid his
notes of "Eoth-todt-liegende," " Nagelflue," and other geolo-
gical matters, Murchison devotes a few words in his journal
About a hundred and fifty men and women, under a strong
military escort, the men in some cases manacled in couples,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
184L] SIBERIAN EXILES. 329
were marching to their exile. * Thank €tod I" he writes,
''in Ei^land we have the sea for our high-road to banish-
ment; for such scenes are very harassing."
While the exiles were tramping along the highway, the
geologists, having gained a rising ground, were luxuriating
in the first distinct viei^ of the real crest, if it may be so
called, of the chain of the Ural Mountains — a long, slightly
imdulated line, rising behiad a succession of woocled ridges,
and forming a singularly unimpressive landscape, Qonsidered
as a part of one of the leading mountain-chains of Europe. It
was not easy to say when the mountain land was really
entered, so gradual had been the ascent " Though the Ural
had been a chain in my imagination, we were really going
over it at a gallop, the highest hill, indeed, not exceeding (in
elevation above its base) our Surrey Lower Green-sandstone."
With no rocks on either side of the duU road, and with dark
rainy weather, the passage of one of the depressions in the
low watershed of Europe and Asia became dreary and
monotonous, till the travellers found themselves in the
heart of the gold-mining region and in a comf oirtable inn at
Ekaterinburg.
Over vast tracts of Suoaia the rocks lie in horizontal
sheets, so little disturbed that^ failing river goiges and other
natural sections, it becomes no easy task to determine their
proper order. like a series of sheets of cloth laid on a
table, the uppermost conceals those which lie beneath it
Eastwards, however, they have been ridged up into the long
swell of the Urals, and our travellers, having already
acquired a good deal of miscellaneous information from the
labours of Humboldt, 6. Bose, Ehrenberg, Helmersen, Hoff-
man^ and others, r^arding that little-known tracts were now
Digitized by VjOOQIC
330 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [isa.
bent upon discovering how far the elevation of the Ural
chain had exposed the edges of the strata, so as to allow their
order and thickness and fossil contents to be determined in
an easier and more satisfactory way than could be done over
leagues of the flat lowlands. They lost no time in beginning
their work, and before many weeks had passed, by dividing
their forces into two parties, and moving upon separate but
parallel lines of research, with occasional reunioi^ by con-
verging traverses at the chief nuning establishments, they
succeeded in ascertaining the general geological structure of
the Ural Mountains, in such a way as to permit the main
masses of the rocks in that chain to be effectually compared
with the geological succession already established elsewhere
in Europe.
One great impediment in their way was the want of any
even tolerable map on which to record their work — a want,
the paralysing effect of which only the geologist who has
been similarly placed can adequately appreciate. '' Were I
Emperor of Russia,'" he writes, ''I would make verily at least
one thousand of my lazy officers work for their laced coats,
and produce me a good map, or they should study physical
geography in Eastern Siberia. Excepting (General Tcheffkine
and a few, very few, I never met with any man who knew
how to handle a map. It is really an affair of an hour to
get a governor to make his way upon a map along a well-
beaten road. I never shall forget my surprise last year at
Nijnii Novgorod, when the Government House was ran-
sacked for a map, upon which my line of march to the south
of Moscow was to be traced. At length what came forth
from this centre of Russian wealth and coiomerce, in the
very feir of Nijnii, and in the Government House? — A
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1841.] RUSSIAN lONORAKCE OF MAPS. 331
district map of Schoubert's which I have so anathematized ?
— No, but one of the little three-rouble maps which the
common traveller buys, with simply the names of the chief
places and small towns ! The same occurred at Kostroma,
where the Governor had no other.
" If such be the case in the heart of Bussia, how are we to
expect that the best-informed natives here in the Urals
should have any idea of their broken and diversified region ?
Bussia must produce geographers before she can expect to
have geologists. The cost of a single regiment of cavalry
would effect this great national work ; and would that the
Emperor could be led to see its desirableness and efficacy for
all good measures of internal improvement ! I never yet
heard a Bussian speak of anyplace as being east^ west, north,
or south of such a point, but merely as so many versts fix>m
this or that town. Ask him in what direction and he is
dumb. First he will say it is to the right or to the left,
according as he may have travelled; and it is only by a
serious cross-examination, which would puzzle a barrister of
the northern circuit, that you can guess at something like
the fact But alas I after fancying myself informed, how
wide have I found nature from their markl Here, for
example, you will find people disputing as to whether a
leading place, such as Stataoust, is to the east or west
side of the Ural; and as for the roads, they trust to
their clever peasants, stout horses, and ever-resisting taran-
The absence of reliable maps, though it proved a con-
tinual hindrance in the process of geologizing, was never
allowed to retard the bodily activity of the party. Of that
party and its local auxiliaries, as they started on one of
Digitized by VjOOQIC
332 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isa
their exploratory tours, the jonmal gives the following
account : —
''A route from the Zavod [mining-station] of Ghresto-
vodsvisgensk across the Ural chain to the valley of the Is^
on the eastern watershed, was now to he undertaken, as
arranged in our programme But this wlis no slight
affair, inasmuch as no party had tratdled by this old and
abandoned corduroy road through the forests and sloughs
for many years, yet, by sending peasants across, arrange^
ments were made.
" At 3 A.M., 2d July, I roused the whole parly, and at \
past four we were in march from the Zavod, being a party
of twenty cavaliers of most grotesque and varied outUna
The President of the Geological Society need not describe
himsel£ The Vice-President of the Greological Society of
France sported his long blue Spanish cloak, and a broad-
brimmed, round-topped, Moscow grey hat, which, on the
back of a Wouvermanns' grey horse, formed an essential
item in the motley group. Herr Graube^ the Mast^ of
the Mint^ who led u% had his long boots above his knees,
and large furred coloshes, with his little German cap. Yon
Keyserling, in his green cap and jacket, bestrode a gallant
brown, and his servant, Juan the Venerable, turned out on
a Russian saddle in a long black cloak, on a white Cossack-
like beast The Ispravnick of the district, who honoured
us, was a sort of sub-military looking figure, with spectacles
and life-guard boots, superadded to a black shooting-
jacket. The German doctor of the Zavod, a most obliging
man, was mounted on a capital iron-grey, witJi high action.
Lastly came our two Eussian officers, Karspinski and
Koksharoffi both of whom were knocked up by our rapid
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1841.] OEOLOOIZINO IN THE URALS. 333
ride of y^terday. The former, dreading the result, to-day
had siarapped a large pillow on his nissia-leather red and
yeUow demi-peak saddla Our bearded fellows were per-
haps the best for the painter, with their caffcans, double-
ooned hats, and long boots ; one armed with an axe behind ;
another with De Yemeuil's gun in hand ; a third with
long Turkish pipes ; and ethers astride of animals carrying
sacks, bags, and beds.
''Our start was somewhat cheerless as to weather, for
the day looked- lowering ; and in a few minutes we were in
the interminable boggy forests which fringe the flanks of
the XJraL It was soon e^dent that all haste was in vain.
The sloughs exceeded eil that my imagination had conjured
up. The road was a sort ef bridle-read, not to be described
to English understanding, for it <xm8isted in most parts,
and for ten or twenty versts, of planks and round trees,
most of them rotten and breaking, placed over the quag-
mires here and there, the track along which seemed hope-
less, but for the dexterity of a Bussian horse. If the plank
broke and his leg went in up to the hock, he pulled it leisurely
out, whilst with the other he was fighting his way up the
rounded slippery sin^e plank which remained. If his
tread on one end brought the other up in his face, he would
gently and evenly move on till the equilibrium was estab-
lished, and he gained another safe footing. Add to this,
massive trees, including the noble Pintts cenibra and others,
lying across the road, immense roots branching in all
directions, sedge and long grass up to the horse's belly,
and you may have some idea of a bridle-road in the
UraL"
Not much geology could be done under such unfavourable
Digitized by VjOOQIC
334 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isfl.
conditions, nor could any clear notion be formed of the
general aspect of the Ural chain, though the peculiarities
of the wooded r^ons became only too famiUar. Now and
then the travellers succeeded in getting above the line of
wood, so as to catch a glimpse of the summits of the
Ural and the countiy beyond. Thus at the Eatchkanar
they " at last found a true mountain in the Ural " — rough
View firom the Summit ot the Katchkaiur, North UnO, looking northwaidi.
(From Aiufia in Bwnp^ yoL L p. 893.)
splintered crags, shooting high over the damp sombre forests,
and nourishing in their crevices and amid their slopes a
bright and luxuriant vegetation which recalled that of some
Swiss valley. From this peak they could look on one side
over the far rolling sea of dark pine, with here and there a
snow-streaked summit rising island-like out of it ; on the
other side lay the vast plains of Siberia, with the level
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1841.] OEOLOOIZINO IN THE URAL RIVERS. 335
featureless surface, and to the eye at least with the bound-
less horizon of a great secL^
At other places on the crest of the chain rocky scarps
were encountered. From Stataoust the party reached some
conspicuous rocks rising along the water parting between
Europe and Asia. ''Clambering up to the summit, and
with one leg on either Continent, we sang ' Qod save the
Emperor.' In this sequestered spot, however, neither of&cers
nor workmen knew the present national air, which I had
heard at St Petersburg and Moscow, but began to chant
our old ' God save the King,* which they had sung since
the time of Peter the Great I then hummed this new
air, and this music of Levoff was thus first given out in
the western borders of Siberia."
But the most exciting and instructive work which they
carried out in these remote regions was the exploration of
some of the river-courses. Owing to the need of abundant
water-power for mining purposes, the streams had been
manipulated in many different ways, some being turned
into a succession of dams and waterfalls, others deprived of
their water to fill lateral reservoirs. It was in these natural
sections that the true structure of the Ural might be most
confidently searched for, and special care was given to them,
though but for the active co-operation of the mining
authorities, these defiles would have proved far more for-
midable obstacles than the morasses and corduroy bridle-
tracks. How the work was done may be judged from the
following extract : —
'' Descending the river Issetz in canoes, between rocky
banks of micaceous schists and granite, we came to the
1 See Plate, p. 392 of Buaiia and the Ural MawUamM.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
336 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [iB4l
mill of Paulken, where the miller ofifered us tea, observing
that his first love was God and the Emperor, the next
strangers; iot he had travelled in Bussia, and knew the
value of hospitality. The descent of this river is quite
unique/ for the water-traveller must quit his canoe at every
one of the hundred mill-races. There are upwards (^ two
hundred of these mill-dams between Ekaterinbuig and
Eamensk. At every one of these, one's goods, chattels, and
self must go out and in, and his canoe be shoved over the
rough roots, sticks, and blocks (often held together by
laige blocks of stones), and dropped some eight or
fifteen feet as the case may be. No ordinary traveller
can execute this journey without great loss of time and
patience. For us the authorities were so active that at
eeu^h stoppage a multitude was waiting to get us through.
The sub-officer put every ^ starosta ' in play, and our descent
was a regular press. * Stupai, pikarea, poshol 1 ' and on we
went (at what cost it matters tot in this land), carrying
with us the inmates of one village till we reached the nextw
No one who has not descended this Siberian river would
believe how much comfort and industry appear on its banka
No mill, numerous as they were, was without six or more
little carts before it A dense population lives all along
the Issetz. Oood white large churches rise up here and
there, and everywhere the cottages are nice and clean.*
More adventurous was the descent of one of the streams on
the other or western slope of the UraL Von Eeyserling and
De Yemeuil had been making independent observations, and
the party re-united at a mining station on the Serebrianska,
a small stream flowing into the Tchussovaya, which descends
into the great Permian lowlands. " The descent of the Sere*
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1841.J PERILS OF URAL NAVIGATION. 337
brianska," he says, ** was one of the most memorable days
of my life. The distance to be accomplished by this winding
stream was seventy versts, or nearly fifty English miles.
When I went to rest, the bed of the river was almost quite
dry, with not water enough to drown a rat, and yet we were
to effect the miracle of floating down in a six-oared boat
When I awoke a furious stream was rushing down, and the
Dike of AubUtoI, Soath Und.— (^rom BttUx i% Ewrop^, yoL L p. 860.)
natives were beginning to get canoes. The good comman-
dant^ having the Imperial order that I was to descend by
water, had let off an upper lake, and thus made a river in
a fine dry sunny day !
''The waters having been let off for us, and the river bed
filled, we effected our embarkation amid three cheers. The
river was muddy, and had rocks hidden, with very sharp
VOL. I. Y
Digitized by VjOOQIC
338 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [isfl,
curves of the stream. With a hundred groundings and
stoppages, we got tired of our big boat of honour, and took
to the canoes. These answered well for a while, but trust-
ing to shoot through some stakes and nets (mjrself on my
back at the head of the canoe), we (ie. De Yemeuil and
myself) were capsized in a strong current. I saved my
note-book (see the stains), but my cloak, bag, pipe, etc., went
floating down. A curious scene followed, after we had
scrambled out to the shore. The other canoe shot by and
picked up our floating apparatu& Fortunately this letting
off the waters had brought down some natives to catch fish,
and they had a fire, by which we dried ourselves, whilst
their laige wolf-dogs lay aroimd us. When we re-em-
barked, we shot several ducks (Merjanier), and here and
there found limestones and shales striking to the N.K.W.
Some of the limestones were charged with Devonian fossils.
''After this, evening began to falL Saddles, anticlinals,
and synclinals arose in magnificent masses on the rocky
banks, but our boat-bottom was soon knocked to pieces by
grounding at least a himdred times, and whisking round as in
a waltz at each shock. It now filled so rapidly that we had
just time to escape. We had then a fine evening scene.
We landed on shingle, and got into the forest, not having
seen a house or hut for fifty miles. The dense wildness of
the scene, the jungle and intricacy of a Bussian forest,
can never be forgotten. We had to cross fallen trees and
branches, and to force through underwood up to our necks.
"After our various night evolutions, sometimes by land
and sometimes by vrater, we finally reached our ' derevna '
(Ust Serebrianska) at two A.M., W43t up to the middle, by
walking through moist jungle and meadow. Our men were
Digitized by VjOOQIC
184L] NAVIGATION IN THE URALS. SS9
veiy amphibia, and required no food. They had been half
the day in that stream, pulling, hauling, shoving, and shout-
ing, and never eating or drinking. We had to awake the
chief peasant's family, and were soon in a fine hot room,
with children sleeping all about
** I awoke with the bright sun, after three hours' rest, and
Goige of the TchnasoTaya, we«t flank of Und. Contorted DeTonlan and Carboniferona
Bocks.— (From Bu$tia in Ewnp*^ toL L p. 886.)
pulling my shoes out of the oven, and my dried clothes
firom the various long poles, proceeded after a warm tea to
embark on the Tschussovaya, into which the Serebrianska
flows. The Tschussovaya being a much larger river, we had
Digitized by VjOOQIC
340 SIB RODERICK MURCEISON. [mil
no difficulty in boating down it, and we had a most instruc-
tive and exciting day, as we passed in the deep gorges of
Devonian and Carboniferous limestone, here thrown up in
vertical beds to form peaks, then coiled over even like ropes
in a storm, or broken in every direction. Making many
sections, with many memoranda, the 17th June was
finished."
" On the following day we worked away down the river
in the same great leaky boat as before, the boatmen singing
their carols, and abusing the Ispravnicks and proprietors
who force them to drink bad *vodki' or whisky by their
monopoly. Other songs were gentle, plaintive love-ditties,
so unlike what our coarse country fellows would sing.
With no stimulants, getting but black bread, and working
in wet clothes, for they were continually in the river shoving
the boat on, they sang in rhymes, one of which as trans-
lated by Koksharoflf was : —
* My love slie lives on the banks of a rapid fltream.
And when the goes to the garden to pnll a rose, she thinks of me.*
Another of these ditties began — 'Mary, come back from
the bower.' A third was a comic song, quizzing a soldier
who got into a house when tipsy. A fouith was a jollifica-
tion of peasants in a drinking-shop, to beat the maker of
bad brandy, with a famous loud refrain in which all the
boatmen joined heartily."
When, after toils of this kind, the travellers found them-
selves again in one or other of the busy mining stations, they
met with much courteous, and even exuberant, hospitality.
Thus before leaving Ekaterinburg a dinner was given in their
honour, to which the chief officials of the place were asked.
Delicacies of all kinds, as well as costly wines, appeared at
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1841.] HOSPITALITY IN THE URALS. 341
the table. "The dinner," says Murchison, ''finished by a
bumper of champagne to my wife, and throwing all the
glasses out of the building, that they might never again be
used. I made a speech in reply, and begged to have a top
and a bottom of the broken glasses, that I might reunite them
with a silver plate in England, and inscribe on it my grate-
ful thanka"
Posts were neither frequent nor regular, or at least the
geologists were too constantly on the move to be able to count
upon many fixed addresses to which letters could be sent for
them. Murchison, however, though busy, body and soul, in
Bussian geology, naturally found his thoughts many a time
far away among his Mends at home. On 28th July, by four
Plain of IdmeBtoiie in the Sontli UnL— <From Btwtia in Bwopi^ toL L p. 43a)
in the morning, he was up, had boiled his own kettle and
breakfasted, and was writing up his journal notes : — " This
day the British Association is assembling at Plymouth, and
I drank success to it How few of the members there will
have lighter hearts than their general secretary in Siberia !
.... In this poor dreary spot (for the Steppes are like the
flat border counties of England and Scotland) I made two
children at all events right happy by giving them new large
copper piecea"
It was in the southern parts of the Ural that the
travellers had most experience of those grassy plains, to
which the term Steppes is applied — " wide, monotonous.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
342 SIB RODERICK MURCHI80N. \}M.
featureless plateaux, the withered grassy sur&ce undulating
to the south and west, while to the east all is boundless
even. Not a glimpse of what may be called the Ural
mountains. The countiy becomes more decidedly southern ;
or, in other words, bare, barren, and bad. Dried dung, piled
up, is now used in place of wood, and Eirghis and Calmuck
faces appear under the military uniform in very poor villages.
The road now quits the low eminences on which the station
is placed, defended by men of all arms, including Cossacks,
and passes along the wide sea of the Steppe. Low bushes
of a sort of Myrica are mixed with a little culture of oats and
com. The very road was grassy, and we galloped by the
first armed mounted archer Bashkirs I had seen, with a
stout double bow, and twenty heavy arrows. They are used
in protecting the conveyance of goods."
Notices of some of the most striking features of the tribes
through which the journey led occur in the joumaL " Our
Bashkir drivers had a name for every hill, however smalL
The principal man, or coachman, was a fine long, aqiuline-
nosed, wild- looking, good-humoured fellow, with a cap of
loose shaggy fur. He had the three wheelers in hand, pre-
ceded by two postilions with a pair each, and all these were^
headed by a long lad riding a leader in advance. Our
equipage and ponies measured fifty feet in length. The
Bashkirs, being accustomed only to horseback, are not good
whips like the Bushki, and their horses are too weak to
charge a hill ; but they go down one furiously, — ^no slight
danger for the riders, and for us also, who, in case of a fall,
would have been well smashed."
These Bashkir of the Ural had no sympathy with the
geologists in their search after the mammoth and other bones
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1841.] LIFE AMONG THE BASHKIR. 343
found in the gold-drifts and ancient alluvia of those regions.
^ These they considered as relics of their great forefathers,
saying, ' Take our gold if you will, but leave ub, for God's
Bake, the bones of our ancestors !' "
One hot day the parly arrived at a little station in the
South UraL '' Dined at this lonely spot All still as death
at noon. Grasses all burnt up. People asleep, but soon
awakened. The Cossack women of the Uralsk are fine broad
creatures in red dresses. The confidence of these primitive
people is very great, for they allowed us to grope for tea-
spoons and bread in the cupboards in which their bank-notes
and roubles were lying loose 1**
Living in Bashkir tents, the geologists learned to relish a
sort of diet which anywhere else might have been deemed
hardly tolerable. One staple article of food in summer
among these simple people is ^^ Koumiss,'' — a preparation of
mare's milk, — ** the staff of life, the bread, meat, and wine of
the Bashkir." Of this liquor Murchison would appear to
have become fond, and to have thriven on it He tells how
at one of the Bashkir stations, where the party had spent
the night, '' after a very good breakfast, all sorts of saluta-
tions followed, such as the drinking of Koumiss to the
prosperity of our host Then we heard his story of losing
sixty sheep, killed by three wolves last winter ; next we found
that he paid so many roubles for his present wife, and that
her dress cost him more than herself. I expressed a wish
to him to have a Bashkir vest belt pouch, and cap, and he
offered me his own. It was with difficulty that I got him
to take the value to replace them."^
^ **ThiB dress I afterwards wore at a fancy ball at Stafford House,
when I sainted the old Duke of Wellington in true Bashkir style. Kot
Digitized by VjOOQIC
344 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [i84i.
At last, with note-books laden with descriptions and
sections of the various traverses which they had made of
the Ural chain, the travellers began to move once more into
the great western plain. They had succeeded in reaching
the central masses of that chain, and in recognising, by fossil
evidence, that from a nucleus of granite and ciystalline
rocks, Silurian, Devonian, and Carboniferous strata are suc-
cessively thrown oflE This evidence had been industriously
gathered from river-channels, road -sides, mining operations,
and every available source of information. For days to-
gether they had been off soon after daybreetk for renewed
hammering, and many a time night descended upon them
while they were still plying their task. Now and then,
indeed, when pinched for time, they even essayed to use
their hammers in the dark, after the manner of M. Boub^,
whose example Murchison used jocularly to quote, up to the
end of his life.^
It was now time to turn westwards, towards the coal-
fields of the south of Eussia, the exploration of which had
been fixed as one of the chief objects of the expedition.
But Orenburg lay in their way, with its governor, the brave,
though unfortunate, hero of the Khivan expedition. General
Perovski He was then at his country quarters, in a
picturesque wooded valley at the far edge of the Steppe, a
long way to the north-east of the town. To see a little
more geology, with a taste of Eussian sport, and the
one of my intimate friends reoognised me. The sword, etc., I iiad from
Stataonst, and medals d la Bwse, hung roand me."
^ This geologist, said Sir Roderick, used to maintain that a good deal
of geological work could be done as weU by night as by day. Bocks had
three well-marked sounds under the hammer — P^, Poff% i^d Pujfl The
first of these indicated the hard crystalline rocks, the second the sand-
stones, and the third the clays I
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1841.] GENERAL PER0V8KL 345
acquaintance of a noted Bnssian soldier, were attractions
Mnrchison could not resist So he undertook the inter-
minably tedious drive across the Steppe, and spent a few
days with more thorough pleasure than he had enjoyed since
leaving home. With all the comforts of civilized life, this
place was yet quite in the wildsy — BashMr attendants, with
their picturesque costumes, a hlazing bonfire lighted in the
encampment, and the moonlight glancing on the lances of
the Bashkir guard Perovski made a great impression on
the retired officer of the 36th. One evening he gave him
the following anecdote: — *'When the utter failure of the
Khivan expedition become known, all Bussia turned upon
me, and with any other master than my good Emperor I was
a ruined man. But the Emperor declared he would not
condemn me until the opinion of the Duke of Wellington
was obtained, who, being a Marshal in the Kussian army,
should have the whole case laid before him. This was done
through Baron Brunnow, and then came the Duke's dictum :
' I am of opinion that General Perovski acted as a skilful
general, and that if he had not retreated when he did,
instead of losing a fourth part of his army, he might have
lost the whole. Success was impossible under such intense
cold."* On this judgment being given, the Emperor not only
absolved Perovski, but gave him the government of Oren-
burg. The Gteneral added, — "You see that I owe every-
thing to your illustrious Duke, and I b^ of you, when you
return to England, to take some opportunity of letting him
know what a grateful person I am." "This," Murchison
adds, ** I took care to do."
The visit to the General led actually to yet another
traverse of the Ural, for he showed the travellers a map of
Digitized by VjOOQIC
346 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80K [mi.
the southern part of the chain, so greatly superior to any-
thing which they had yet been fortunate enough to meet with,
that it prompted a strong desire to take one final look at the
Ural geology, and with his help among the Bashkir popula-
tion, they succeeded in once more crossing the chain in its
central part, and collated their work in the southern and
northern portions.
At last, however, they had unwillingly to turn their
The Oanuaja Hills, South Und, approaching from the Steppea.
(From Ru$8ia in Europe, voL L p. 460.)
backs finally upon those picturesque ridges and fertile
valleys of the Southern Ural, and to speed westwards
through the dreary monotonous country of the Steppes. In
geology there was nothing either very interesting or com-
plicated to detain them. They therefore hurried on through
the Eirghis Steppes to Sarepta, crossing once more the great
Volga, and tracing as they went some of the limits of the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1841.] IN THE STEPPES. 347
ancient sea of which the present Caspian^is but a shrank
remnant Through the plains of the Don, among Cossacks
and Kalmucks, their course was yet more rapid. On 8th
September the journal records, — " De VemeuU sleeping in
the hut, and myself in the carriage. What is a Cossack
post station ? Everything about it is very different &om a
flaming great wooden Bussian station. First, you see a dot
upon the Steppe, which magnifies as you approach it to a
thing about the size of the smallest Irish hut^ and not very
unlike one in externals, being concocted of mud and reeds,
with very little wood. But the interior is very different
from an Irish cabin. I now write in a room ten feet square,
and on the table lieth the regular sealed post-book. This
official chamber is six and a half feet high, and has a large
stove in the comer, a door four feet high, and two windows
eighteen inches by nine. The walls are all well white-
washed, the tables well scoured, and tiie floor well beaten
and clean swept."
Skirting the sea of Azov, they turned northwards into the
coal-field of the Donetz. There they made a series of most
important observations, bearing both on general questions of
geology and on the industrial resources of the Bussian
Empire. They found the coal-seams to lie, like many of
those in the north of England and in Scotland, among the
marine strata of the Carboniferous Limestone, there being,
so far as they could see, no true "Coal-measures," in the
geologists sense of that term, in Bussia. They learnt, more-
over, that though the coal was quite workable, and had
indeed been mined for years, it lay among strata which,
unlike those of the vast tracts in the centre of the Empire,
had been subject to such underground disturbances as to
Digitized by VjOOQIC
348 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [isii.
present many laige dislocations and many foldings. They
traced it westwards until they found it die out again on
ancient crystalline rocks, while northward and eastwards
they learnt that it passed under sheets of Cretaceous and
Tertiary deposits.
In the course of this prolonged tour, while the main
attention of the geologists had been given to the structure
of the solid rocks, their ingenuity had been on many occa-
sions called forth by the anomalous features presented by
the surface deposits of the country. These difficulties started
up in renewed force on the way north to Moscow. They
are thus stated in the journal : — ** The surface of Bussia
affords some puzzling problems. In passing from south to
north you first meet with the tract of the northern drift, the
materials of which become more and more numerous at
every ten versta Still the old rule (applied by me last
year) answers perfectly, viz., the diluvia are three- fourths
derived from the subjacent rocks, so as largely and loosely
to indicate the zone of country you are traversing, provided
you have the key to the subsoils of Bussia. Thus, whilst
the loose stuff was all yellow in the coimtry composed of
yellow Devonians, so to-day, viz., from lichvin to Kaluga^
you are immersed either in ferruginous, or reddish, or white
sands. The latter prevail in great quantity in the horrible
tracts north and south of Peremyschl — a most wretched
town, — and their presence is well explained by the destruc-
tion of the yellow and white sands of the Carboniferous
Limestone ; for, with the exception of the section opposite to
Peremyschl, and one or two rare localities, the valley of the
Oka is here denuded to a width of several versts, which
space is flooded in spring-time. This is one of the numerous
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1841.] BLACK EARTH OF RUSSIA. 349
cases which realize in modem times (viz., in spring-floods)
the geologist's idea (mine at least) of the condition of the
earth's surface during the intermediate period, viz., shortly
after emersion from the sea, when the mammoth had left his
bones sticking in the mud.
" The drifting and excavation are explicable as in other
places. The vast spaces denuded and broken up in the most
horizontal districts explain perfectly the vast masses of local
detritus in the northern governments, and their transport for
150 versts southwards.
** But how explain the Tchomaia-zem which overlaps the
diluvium of the north, and is also spread over vast r^ons of
the centre and south of Russia, sometimes in river valleys,
sometimes on slopes, sometimes on high plateaux, and is
always of precisely the same composition, without a trace of
true pebbles, or, in short, of any extra ingredient ? What
colours the black loam ? If it be of vegetable origin, whole
forests of mighty extent must have been destroyed to pro-
duce it. But how destroyed? In all other superficial deposits,
whether in bog, in mud, or in the youngest tertiaries, we find
traces of the trees, branches, grasses, etc., but not a vestige
have we in the Tchomoi-zem. All ib a black, uniform, finely
levigated paste, sometimes highly tenacious, and very much
so when not worked into with the plough, for after labour it
works into a fine black mould In this virgin state it is
seldom to be seen, for 90 to 100 parts of all that is good in
soil, fix)m the Ural to the swamps of Poland, is already in
culture. The specimens I selected, however, had evidently
never been touched by plough or man ; they were taken
from the precipitous sides of the Oka, just after a subsidence
of the difib which exposed the section, the lowest deposit of
Digitized by VjOOQIC
350 SIR RODERICK HVRCHISON. [wa
which is the iron sand which covers such large tracts in
Yladimir, and many governments, and overlaps the truncated
and denuded edges of the Devonian limestone in these parts.
Perhaps it is Tertiary, but only perhaps, for we have similar
ironstones under the chalk at Kursk, and similar limestones
over the Lower Jura shales at Saratoff.
" If the drift was, as I believe it to be, a great submarine
operation, then are we to suppose that the Tchomaia>zem is
the result of a great change of a pre-exi3ting terrestrial sur-
face ? To believe in this seems to me very difficult, and for
this reason, that no imaginable destructive sub-aSrial agency
could produce a general wide-spread and uniform condition.
By what conceivable sub-aerial agency can this very thick
black cerate have been spread out as with a unghty trowel,
and fashioned to the surface over millions of square miles ?
If forests were destroyed to farmsh it, how were they so
triturated and reduced to this black cement, that no chemist
could invent apparatus to produce such results, even in a
crucible ?
** I end, therefore, in believing that this black earth is
the last covering of mud and slime which was left by the
retirement of the liassic sea^ and was to a great extent
derived from the wearing away of the shales of the Jurassic
strata [8ic\.
** If such are some of the difficulties of the Tchomaia-zem,
what are we to say of the great subjacent masses of clay
and sand of South Bussia ? In this we have not a pebble
of transport, nothing but a sort of day or loam, which
might well pass for ' loess.' If so, and if ' loess ' was pro-
duced as Lyell thinks, then all South and Central Bussia
was one vast pond, in which all was tranquil during two
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1841.] RETURN TO ST. PETERSBURG., 351
epochs — \8t, that of the so-called drift, with mammoths ;
2(2, that of the black earth."
By the beginning of October the various members of the
party, who had separated for the purpose of making different
traverses of the country, were once more brought together in
Moscow. There several days were spent by Murchison ''in
condensing thoughts, comparing notes, examining Yon Key-
serling and Koksharoff, constdting with De Yemeuil and all
the party, and preparing two general sections, a Tableau
G^ndrale, the map, and the report of fourteen pages to Count
Gaucrine on the results of the 'Exp^tion Gr^ologique.' Also
a letter was concocted to old Professor Fischer, for publication
in the Bulletin de Moscou and the German periodicals, giving
a slight sketch of our doings, and in which I first suggested
the term Permian." Petersburg was reached again on the
8th of October.
Of his last few days in Bussia the journal records the
following memoranda : — *' Having travelled 20,000 versts in
the distant provinces without losing a pin, we were twice
robbed between Novgorod and Moscow of our beds and
things behind the carriage. One trunk only was left in the
hinder parts, and this was viced on; but besides this
securily, I resolved to guard it from the station where we
detected our losses, and so letting down the head jo( the
caliche, I laid De Vemeuil's double-barrelled gun over the
rear, and determined to bag the first thief who approached ;
and in this form we reached Madam Wilson's house.
Besides several interviews with the old minister, Coimt
Cancrine (who was much gratified with my report, of which
he had prepared a digest for the Emperor), and a dinner at
his house, and the same at Tcheffkine's, we were occupied
Digitized by VjOOQIC
352 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [isfl.
in looking after more than twenty cases of fossils, which had
amved from our distant parts, and were deposited in the
magazine of the School of Mines.
''All onr reports and work being delivered in, official
letters were received annoimcing the Second Class St
Anne in diamonds for myself, and a plain cross for De
Yemenil, as a mark of the Emperof s approbation of our
labours.
''We were to sail in tiie Nikolai steamer on Saturday the
24th, and Friday was fixed by the Emperor for seeing us —
a great compliment, as it was His Majesty's working day
with his ministers. On these occasions Nicholas uses no
ceremony. After thanking us for taking so much pains
about the Ural Mountains, and after asking if I thought the
gold alluvia were likely to last much longer, he desired me
to open out and explain the rolls of drawing and paper
under my arm. This I did ucwndum artem. He was serious
when he was receiving his lesson about the productive and
non-productive tracts of eoal, and the rationale thereof, and
laughing when he saw the Produdus Cancrini and the
Oomatites Tcheffkini inscribed upon the roll, he asked,
' Quel esphce de produit est celui-lk de mon ami le Comte V
'And so you have seen (General Perovski? He is my
good and dear friend. I hope you were pleased with him?'
I had then to sing the praises, which I naturally did
eon amare, of the frank and gallant soldier who had been so
truly kind, and also so veiy useful to us.
" When our geological talk was over, and he had asked
us about our health, our travels, and many special points,
I broached my desire to revisit Bussia in 1843, with my
work in my hand, and on that occasion to explore the Altai
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1841.] THE EMPEROR NICHOLAS I. 353
* Come when you will,' was his reply, ' I shall always rejoice
to see you, and to afford you a hearty welcome ; and be
assured that I am most particularly grateful for all your
exertions to impart knowledge amongst us whilst you are
studyii^ the natural history of our country/ And then
with as hearty an ' au revoir/ and as warm a shaking of
hands as ever took place between the oldest familiar friends,
we took our leave.
''Such is Nicholaa Let those who criticise him look
into his noble and frank coimtenance, and then let them
try to tell me he is a tyrant No ; utter ignorance of the
nature of the man has led to this most unjust notion.
Nicholas is above all deceit, and squares his conduct on
more noble principles than that of any potentate of modem
timea He disdains subterfuge, and is transparent as to
all his emotions. Hence if ill-served (knowing perfectly
what duty is) he does not suppress his feelings. He is
sometimes quick in his anger, but like all such generous
souls, his confidence in his friends is unboimded. Firm and
unchanging in his resolves as an Emperor of Bussia must
be, if he desires to reign, his untiring aim is to ameliorate
every institution which he can toucL But alas ! so bound
up is everything in Bussia by forms, customs, and preju*
dices, that he who supposes the autocrat powerful for all
good, and capable of making every conceivable reform,
would find himself most egregiously mistaken. The nobles
and their privileges meet him here, the different bureau-
cracies there. Here the Minister of the State Demesnes
places a veto upon some great projected change ; there the
Minister of the Finances tells him such a thing cannot be,
or, in other words, cannot be paid for.**
VOL. I. z
Digitized by VjOOQIC
354 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [i84l
The official courtesy and real kindness shown to Muiohi-
son in the metropolis made the leave-taking more than a
matter of mere form. From one and all of his firiends he
received the heartiest congratulations and good wishes, with
the expression of a hope for his speedy return. He notes,
for instance, that Coimt Cancrine, the virtual Prime Minister
of the Empire, "* embraced us, kissing me three times ; and
thus encouraged with eveiy promise if I would return, we
took our leave,"
In spite of fogs and other delays, including a feverish
attack, the result of the last week of excitement and
conviviality in St. Petersburg, our traveller reached the
mouth of the Humber on the 1st November. The last
record in the Bussian journal, written while the vessel was
within a few miles of the Yorkshire coast, is as follows : —
'' Seven months and seven days have now elapsed since
I left my home on a fine day in the end of March, and I
hail Old England with a shining sun again after having
travelled through space equal to the diameter of the earth.
The Kirghis, the Kalmuck, and the Bashkir excitements
are now to give way to plain English comforts, of which
I have neither tasted nor thought since I bade adieu to
them"
Thus ended Murchison's Bussian campaign. The ample
record which is given in the great work by his colleagues
and himself has made the general scientific results long
familiar to geologists. The geological structure of the
Bussian provinces was now for the first time broadly
sketched out and mapped so as to bring the rocks of one
half of the European continent into family relationship with
those of the other hal£ Kor were the benefits conferred
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184L] RESULTS OF RUSSIAN CAMPAIGN, 356
only on the country in which the long and arduous journey
had been made. New light was thrown on questions of
general geological import^ such as the structure of moun-
tains, the physical geography of the times of the Old Bed
Sandstone, the classification of the Devonian and Old Bed
Sandstone rocks of Western Europe, the history of the earlier
part of the Carboniferous period, the true order and relations
of the red rocks lying between the Coal-measures and the
base of the Jurassic series, the former extension of that
ancient sea of which the modem Caspian and Sea of Aral
are but the diminishing fragments, the southern extension
of the ice-borne boulders carried during the Ice Age from
Finland and the north far into the low plains of Europe,
the occurrence of gold and its distribution in the old alluvia
of rivers. The campaign indeed proved to be most fruitful
in its issues. It raised Murchison to the same place with
r^ard to the geology of Bussia that Pallas fiUs in its
botany.^ It opened out a new field for research, and paved
the way for the good work which has since been done in
Bussia by other and later observers.
On Murchison himself its influence was profoimd. It
gave breadth to his method of dealing with palaeozoic rocks ;
it increased his aptitude in applying the evidence of fossils
to determine questions of geological chronology, and it
strengthened his confidence in his Silurian and Devonian
work, and in the principles on which that work had been
based. Bringing him too into constant and intimate
association with foreigners and foreign ways of life and
thought, the Bussian campaign increased in a high d^pree
^ Helmenen, Bulletin de VAcad, Imp. de 8L PeterdHmrg, torn. xvii.
1871, p. 295 et ieq.
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356 SIR RODERICK MURCHlSON. [m\.
his sympathj and respect for men and things abroad,
removed from him much, if not all, of that insularity of
feeling of which his countrymen are so often accused, and
made him more than ever the considerate friend and cour-
teous host of all scientific brethren whose lot brought them
to this country, no matter from what quarter of the globe
they might come.
Whether the influences of this bold and skilfully con-
ducted journey were altogether beneficial may be matter
for doubt In the course of a few months the geological
structure of a vast empire embracing the greater part of
Europe had been sketched out — a feat to which there had
probably been no parallel in the annals of geological
exploration. The success of the campaign and the applause
which that success brought from all quarters, were so great
that a more than usually well-balanced nature might well
have felt the strain too severe to keep its equipoise. From
this time forward characteristics which may be traced in
the foregoing narrative became more strongly developed in
Murchison's character. In his letters and in his published
writings his own labours fill a larger and larger space. His
friends could trace an increasing impatience of opposition or
contradiction in scientific matters, a growing tendency to
discover in the work of other fellow-labourers a want of due
recognition on their part of what had been done by him,
a habit, which became more and more confirmed, of speaking
of the researches of his contemporaries, specially of yoimger
men, in a soit of patronizing or condescending way. He
had hitherto been, as it were, one of the captains of a regi-
ment ; he now felt himself entitled to assume the authority
of a general of division. To many men who did not know
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1841.] INFLUENCE OF SUCCESS. 357
him, or who knew him only slightly, this tendency assumed
an air of arrogance, and was resented as an unwarranted
assumption of superiority. But they who knew Murchison
well, and had occasion to see him in many different lights,
will doubtless admit that these failings were in large measure
those of mtumer, and at the most lay openly on the sur-
face of his character. You saw some of them at once,
almost before you saw anything else. Hence it was natural
enough that casual intercourse with him should give
the impression of a man altogether wrapt up in his own
work and fame. Yet imdemeath those outer and rather
forbidding peculiarities lay a generous and sympathetic
nature which inspired many an act of unsolicited and
unexpected kindness, and which was known to refuse to
be alienated even after the deepest ingratituda The suc-
cess of the Bussian researches probably quickened into
undue prominence some of the less pleasing features in
Murchison's character, but they in no way lessened the
measure of kindly interest and sympathy which, in spite of
the way he often chose to show them, were those of a true
friend.
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CHAPTER XVL
THE CHAIE OF THB GEOLOGICAL SOCIETT.
With the prestige which the Bussian geological tour had
given him all over Europe, Murchison returned to resume
'his town life in London. There lay a vast amoimt of work
before him to be done this winter (1841-2). First of all
the notes of the explorations in Bussia had to be carefally
worked out in anticipation of the visit which it had been
arranged should be paid to him by his fellow-travellers,
with the view of settling their plans for the preparation of
their conjoint volumes on the geology of the Muscovite
dominions. The experience which the writing of the
Silurian St/stem had furnished warned him that his new
literaiy venture would be no easy task ; we shall find,
indeed, that just as in the case of the growth of that work,
so in the elaboration of Russia and the Ural MowrUains, the
progress of his pen, slow enough of itself, needed to be con-
tinually sustained by fresh arguments with the hammer.
Only now, the intervals of field-work, instead of taking the
geologist to old haimts, social and scientific, in Wales and
the Border counties, led him to wide digressions into Scan-
dinavia, France, Germany, Poland, Bussia — in short, into
many far separated tracts of the Continent, whence firesh
evidence could be gathered bearing on what had come to
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1811-2.] TOWN LIFE. 359
be his great geological quest — the trae order and classifica-
tion of the older fossiliferous rocks of Europe.
But besides this main piece of work, he had now to
take his place and perform persomJly the duties of Presi-
dent of the Greological Society, an office to which, as we
have seen, he had been for the second time elected, just
before he started on his second journey to Bussia. Since
he had previously filled the chair he had vastly increased
his reputation. Moreover, the fortune inherited by Mrs.
Murchison had very considerably augmented his income;
hence, while eager to sustain his position with dignity
and hospitality, he found himself much more able to do
so on a large scale than in the old and more modest days
at Bryanston Place.
Add to these various avocations the numerous and
exacting calls upon the time and thought of a man who
occupies a prominent place in London society — calls which,
though now increasing enormously on Murchison's hands,
he yet strove to meet as far as he could — and we see what
the change must have been from the wilds of the Urals to
the turmoil of London.
The narrative now to be followed will lead us through
the doings of the busy years which culminated in the pub-
lication of the work on Bussia. It was during that time
that the classification developed in the Silurian System
received its broad basis in Europe. Li that time, too, the
seeds b^an to germinate of the estrangement which utterly
destroyed the ancient brotherly friendship between Sedgwick
and Murchison. There is thus a special interest attaching
to this period in relation both to Murchison's life and to the
progress of palseozoic geology.
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360 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [v^
The following letter takes us at once into the midst of
the work and play of the winter : —
" 16 Bblqrayb Squabb, January 25<^, 1842.
"Dbab Egbbton, — My ancient sympathies are not so
entirely destroyed that I do not feel for your loss of twenty-
five couple of good hoimds I and the only compensation is,
that we have a chance of seeing more of yourself. Humboldt
declines the proposed festival, thanking me for the offer of
this ' noble mark of English kindness,' but as the King stays
only eight or nine days, and has nine thousand things to do,
the thing was impracticable.^ Last week I was at Beaudesert
trying to shoot in snow, but not prevented during two days
from geologizing the fine high wilds of Cannock Chase among
the old Marquis's blackcocks, grouse, and big boulder-stones.
Then I went to Lord Dartmouth's, where I met a large party
and read an inaugural address to the Midland Greological
Society, and made five speeches after dinner (Lord Ward in
the chair) to all the ironmasters, the most effective hit being
when, in the absence of other fighting men, I stood up for
the army and navy, and talked of a withered laurel or two
which I picked up under the ' Old Duke.' That name was
a talisman among good loyal folks like the Dudleyites.
** I shall see Humboldt, I hope, chez mm one of these days,
but the devil is that I am losing the best shooting of the
year. I shall read all my discourse' this year at the morning
meeting, so that we may have a reed jollification at the
Crown and Anchor, after which I fear I shall scarcely be
able to face the Earl's symposium."
^ The King of ProMia was then on a visit to England, with Humboldt
as one of his soite.
* The President's addroM at the anniversary of the Geological Society
in February.
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SYDNEY SMITH'S ORANQERY, 361
Befoie the end of the year the inauguial address men-
tioned in this letter had been printed and circulated among
his friends. From cue of these, the facetious Sydney Smith,
he received the subjoined acknowledgment : —
" Deab Murchison, — Many thanks for your yellow book,
which is just come down to me. You have gained great
fame, and I am very glad of it ; had it been in theology, I
should have been your rival, and probably have been jealous
of you, but as it is in geology, my benevolence and real good-
will towards you have Mr play.
" I shall read you out loud to-day. Heaven send I may
imderstand you : not that I suspect your perspicuity, but
that my knowledge of your science is too slender for that
advantage — a knowledge which just enables me to distin-
guish between the Caseous and the Cretaceous formations,
or, as the vulgar have it, to know chalk from cheesa
" There are no people here, and no events, so I have no
news to tell you, except that in this mild climate my orange-
trees are now out of doors, and in full bearing. Immediately
before my windows, there are twelve large oranges on one
tree. The trees themselves are not correctly the linnean
orange-tree, but what are popularly called the bay tree, in
large green boxes of the most correct shape, and the oranges
well secured with the best pack-thread. They are uni-
versally admired, and, upon the whole, considered finer
than the Ludovican orange-trees of Versailles. Best regards
to Mrs. M. — Yours, my dear Murchison, very truly,
** Sydney Smtth.
« Taumtok, DtunU>«T 26, 1841."
Two other letters of the same correspondent, called forth
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362 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [vml
by similar presents of copies of Murchison's memoirs and
addresses, may be given here : —
" Dear Mubchison, — Many thanks for your kind recol-
lection of me in sending me your pamphlet, which I shall
read with all attention and care My observation has neces-
sarily been so much fixed on missions of another description,
that I am hardly reconciled to zealots going out with voltaic
batteries and crucibles for the conversion of mankind, and
baptizing their fellow-creatures with the mineral acids ; but
I will endeavour to admire and believe in you.^
" My real alarm for you is, that by some late decisions
of the magistrates, you come under the legal definition of
Strollers, and nothing could give me more pain than to see
any of the Sections upon the Mill calculating the resistance
of the air, and showing the additional quantity of flour
which might be ground in vacuo — each man in the mean-
time imagining himself a Gktlileo. We have had Mrs. Grote
here : Grotius would not come. The basis of her character
is rural, and she was intended for a country clergyman's
wife ; but for whatever she was intended, she is an extra-
ordinary clever woman, and we all liked her very muck
" Mra Sydney has eight distinct illnesses, and I have
nine. We take something every hour, and pass the mixture
from one to the other, as Mrs. M. and you do the bottla
''About forty years ago I stopped an in&nt in Lord
Breadalbane's ground, and patted his face ; the nurse said,
* Hold up your head. Lord Glenorchy.' This was the Presi-
dent of your Society ; he seems to be acting an honourable
and enlightened part in life ; pray present my respects to
^ Beferenoe is here mAde to the proceedings of the British AssooiAtioii.
Lord Breadalbftne wm President in 1840.
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A OEOLOOICAL PARADISE. 363
him and his beautiful Counte8& — ^Yours, my dear Murchison,
very truly, Sydney Smith."
"Deab Murchison, — ^Many thanks for your address,
which I shall diligently read. May there not be some one
among the infinite worlds where men and women are all
made of stone — ^perhaps of Parian marble ? How infinitely
superior to flesh and blood ! and what a paradise for you, to
pass eternity with a Grey wacke Woman I ! ! — Ever yours,
" Sydney Smith."
The anniversary address given to the (Jeological Society
in February 1842 was a laboured production, occupying
forty of the closely printed pages of the Society's Pro-
ceedings, and must have somewhat exhausted both reader
and audience from its mere length. During the interval
of ten years which had passed away since Murchison
read a similar discourse, his favourite science had in
some departments made rapid strides; but in none had
its progress been so remarkable as in the classification of
the older fossiliferous rocks, a result which sprang in great
measure out of his own labours. Naturally therefore he
dwells upon his share in the triumphal progress of geo-
logy. Giving his brethren of the hammer a sketch of
the steps by which the classification had been worked
out, he alludes to his adoption of the term '^ Silurian," re-
marking that he had some pride in restoring that name to
currency in remembrance of the boast of the Soman general
Ostorius, who, on conquering Caractacus, declared that he
had blotted out the very name of the British SUures from
the face of the earth. He justifies the use of a geographical
terminology, and very pointedly calls attention to the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
364 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [vm.
absence of any zoological boundary between the Cambrian
and Silurian systems, a fact which had already been ad-
mitted by Sedgwick^ He gathers together with manifest
satisfaction the evidence of the extension of the Silurian
system in Europe, Africa^ AmericlEt, Australia, and the South
Seas. The Geological Survey had been making progress in
South Wales, and had begun to grapple with the problem
as to the separation between Cambria and Siluria. While
alluding to its progress under the leadership of De la Beche,
Murchison refers again to the work of the Survey in Devon-
shire, and to his own labours there and on the Continent in
conjimction with Sedgwick. The rocks of Devonshire lesid
him to say a few kindly words of Hugh Miller^s Old Red
Sandstone, which had recently appeared, and to speak of
the wonderful series of bone-cased uncouth fishes famished
by the Old Sed Sandstone of Scotland and Bussi& Among
his allusions to fossils there occurs a reference to the re-
markable announcement by Ehrenbeig o£ the occurrence of
still living species in the Cretaceous rocks, a fact which
showed "the danger of as yet attempting to establish a
^ Proc. OeoL 8oc^ liL 641. The principle on which Mnrohiaon had
proceeded in his Silari«n claBsifioaiion wm that which had guided Wil-
liam Smith among the Secondary rocks — "Strata identified hy their
organic remains." If, therefore, he found a series of strata containing
nothing but Silurian fossils, he was logicaUy bound to dass it as Silurian.
This was the inevitable step in store for him, and that he saw it coming
seems to be indicated in this address. He says that <*the term * Cam-
brian' must cease to be used in zoological classification, it being in that
sense synonymous with ' Lower Silurian,' " and adds that the line of divi-
sion placed on his map between the two series has no longer any paleon-
tological significance. He hints that the Cambrian series is but a local
subdivision of the same great palaeozoic group. Sedgwick's suscep*
tibilities do not seem to have been roused at this time, but the subse-
quent perusal of this address and that for the next year led him to protest
against the proposal to wipe out the Cambrian system from geological
nomenclature. See Sedgwick's Letters to Wordsworth, Letter Y. p. 86,
and potUa, i). 380, noU,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1842,] THE GEOLOGICAL ANNIVERSARY, 365
nomenclature founded solely on the fauna and flora of
former conditions of the planet** After eulogies of foreign
geologists, and notably of L. von Buch, to whom he con-
veyed the Society's Wollaston medal, he winds up his oration
with a long disquisition on the glacial theories which had
been discussed at Glasgow, and regarding which he had
then announced his intention " to show fight" He refuses
to allow Agassiz to cover the northern parts of our hemi-
sphere with sheets of ice, but admits that the evidence com-
pels him to concede that the land was submerged beneath
an ocean over which ice-rafts and icebergs sailed southwards.
Here is Murchison's own report of his discourse and
the meeting, as sent at the time to Sedgwick : —
26ft Februa/ry 1842. — ^"The anniversary went off glori-
ously, though I say so. The morning discourse was well
received, and in truth I put a deal of powder and shot into it,
foreign and domestic, and took so much pains as to stop my
original work on Russia. ... [I write] as well as a man can
whose first soiree begins to-night with probably 200 or 300
people coming ! The morning room was full, and I read for
two hours without losing a man. I entered at length into
the Silurian and ' Palaeozoic' question. ... I defended the
temporary division set up between your lower slaty rocks and
my superior groups on the ground of positive observation of
infrapoeition, and if in the end (as I now firmly believe) no
suite of organic remains will be found, even in the lowest
depths, which differs on the whole from the Silurian types,
why then we prove the curious law that in the earliest
inhabited seas of our planet the same forms were long con-
tinued.
" I took care to show that any other plan than that
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366 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [iwa.
which we adopted would have led to fatal errors, such as
'Syst&me Hercynien' and other hypotheses^ and that now
all most come rights to whatever extent (and the extent can
probably never be defined) the base of the Lower Silurian
zoological type may be extended. . . .
" Our dinner went off ' con amore* and every one says
it was the best (Adam Sedgwick only wanted) which we
ever had I did my best to make it of a public character,
and had my two Enighte of the Garter, one on either side
the President, and the representative of my Emperor
Nicholas. Brunnow spoke admirably, and I never heard
Lord Lansdowne speak so well as for the toast of 'The
Universities of this Land.' . . . Having no science to go
to and snore over at night, the coena et nax went ofiT just as
I could have wished it, and I so handicapped my running
horses that they each made play where I wanted it I
send you a scrap from the Morning Post, possibly written
by . . . Knowing that he was going to furnish some-
thing, I popped my speech [about the Emperor and Baron
Brunnow] into his hands, being well aware that words are
weighed at St. Petersburg. Tell Whewell of our fillies."
Among the survivors of that small band of enthusiaste
who founded the Qeological Society, one of the most promi-
nent still took, even in his old age, a keen interest in the
Society's affairs. No face was more familiar at the meet-
ings than that of G. B. Greenough, no voice more often
heard in the discussions. Every new theory, or proposed
reform of an old one, every suggested change in the estab-
lished nomenclature of geology, was sure to receive keen
scrutiny, and probably more or less of active or at least
passive opposition, from the veteran President of the Society.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1842.] 0. B. OREENOUOH. 367
He used even to astonish the propounder of some novelty
by demonstrating, or at least endeavouring to demonstrate,
that what was thought to be new was really only another
version of what had been known long before, had perhaps
been even taught by Werner himself We have seen that
this happened to be his mood of opposition when the
Devonian question came up for discussion before the Society.
And yet with this adherence to his early habits of thought,
and with a doggedness of opposition which, though always
courteous and good-natured, must often have been provoking
enough, Greenough retained the deep respect and esteem of
every member of the Society. This was manifested now
by a movement to perpetuate his features in a bust, to be
placed and preserved in the apartments at Somerset House.^
Murchison took a leading share in the organization of this
scheme, which when propounded to Greenough drew from him
the following acknowledgment^ addressed to Murchison : —
March 30, 1842. — ^"For the exertions I have made in
behalf of the Geological Society I have been most liberally
remunerated by the confidence reposed in me at all times
by the body at large, and by the invaluable friendships
which I have formed with many of the members. I accept,
however, with much pleasure, the distinction now presented
to me, viewing it, as I do, not merely as an acknowledgment
that I have faithfully discharged my duty, but also as a
stimulant to exertion in others, and above all as a guaran-
tee that those principles which, in the infancy of our estob-
lishment, were resolutely insisted upon as essential to
the well-being of every scientific institution, will continue
to be cherished in the Geological Society, not only in the
1 It was introsted to Weatnuusott
Digitized by VjOOQIC
3 68 SIR RODERICK MURCHiaON. [i84f.
lifetime of its founders, but long after their decease. —
Tours sincerely, G. B. Geeenough."
WMIst the geologists of Britain were in this graceful
way crowning with honour the latter days of one of their
earliest fellow-workers, another member of the brother-
hood of hammerers was about to begin a career which has
gained for him a high place in the annals of geological dis-
coveiy, and with both of these events Murchison was
intimately associated. The Provincial Legislature of Canada
had voted a sum of £1500 for a geological survey of the
province. With the view of securing a competent person
to undertake the duties of such a survey, the (Jovemor-
General applied to the Home Government, mentioning in
particular the name of Mr. W. R Logan, and requesting
Lord Stanley to ascertain whether, in the opinion of the
Geological Society of London, or other competent authori-
ties, he was considered to be qualified. This official request
was communicated to Murchison, as President of the Society.
Mr. Logan had already distinguished himself by some
admirable surveys of the South Welsh coal-fields, and by
observations on the formation of coaL He had worked
enthusiastically as a volunteer in De la Beche's staff of the
Geological Survey, and his large sections, drawn to a true
scale of six inches to a mile, led to all the subsequent admir-
able sections by De la Beche and his colleagues. Murchison,
who knew these labours well, and had made use of them in
his Silurian map, recommended the proposed appointment in
the warmest terms, adding that it would ^ render essential
service to Canada^ and materially favour the advancement
of geological inquiry." Shortly afterwards Mr. Logan re-
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1842.] VON KEYSERLING IN ENGLAND. 369
ceived the appointment, and returned to Canada, his native
country, to lay the foundations, and for about thirty years,
in spite of many discouragements, to work out the develop-
ment of one of the most important and successful geologi-
cal surveys that have ever been carried on in any country.
Summer had brought back leaf and blossom ere bags
and hammers were furbished up anew for field-work. A
plan which had been discussed the previous year in Russia
was now to be put into execution, viz., that Murchison should
with his comrades make a careful examination of some of
the best sections of the older rocks of Britain, for the sake
of renewed and more definite comparison with those of the
Continent, and especially of Sussia. Count Yon Keyserling
duly arrived, and after the usual and indispensable hospi-
taUties in London, Murchison and he started on their Eng-
lish tour. Spinning with the Isle of Wight, they first
worked their way over the Secondary formations westward
as far as Cheltenham and the Malvema Then they turned
northwards into the old Silurian region, lingering at the
rocks and country-houses which had been Murchison's
fetvourite haunts ten years before, and passing across the
undefined and increasingly indefinable line between Cam-
bria and Siluria, away over Sedgwick's domains even to the
far promontories of North Wales. Turning still north-
wards, the two geologists halted in Durham to compare the
rocks and fossils of that county with those of the Bussian
province whence the term ^ Permian' had been taken. The
northern coal-fields, so like in some respects to those of
Bussia, offered many points of interest for comparison. So
intent, however, were the travellers in gathering materials
for the illustration of their Eussian work, that they pro-
VOL. I. 2 a
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370 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [msL
longed their journey into Scotland, tracing the red sand-
stones which emerge from under the coal-bearing tracts, and
in which they saw much to remind them of the great areas
of Old Eed Sandstone in Russia. Crossing to Carlisle on
their southward journey, they worked their way through the
Lake district, thence down the great Carboniferous Limestone
tracts of Yorkshire and Derbyshire into the Staffordshire
coal-field until they once more found themsdves on the
slopes of the Malvems.
Such was the round of country examined. One or two
parts of the journey deserve notice from the sequel to which
they led. In the course of their traverse from the Silurian
into the Cambrian region, the travellers were as unable
as anybody had ever yet been to draw any satisfactory line
between the two tracts. Mineralogically there was really no
true boundary line, and zoologically it had been agreed even
by Sedgwick himself that no distinct assemblage of fossils
had been ascertained to belong to the Cambrian series.
The Geological Survey under De la Beche had now been
extended into Wales. When Murchison and Von Keyserling
were on their tour, the Survey forces were at work among
the Silurian and Cambrian strata, and had already, after
much careful mapping, made out some important points
regarding the relation of these strata. Some of these are
referred to in the following extracts from a letter by De la
Beche to Murchison. Llandovery, Zlst July 1842. — ^''Touch-
ing the Silurian system, heaven knows where it is to end
northwards in this land ! it goes in great roUs, and no mis-
take, a long way beyond the Caermarthen (Ordnance map)
sheet No want of fossils ; in fact, organics and sections
all going to prove the same thing. The cleavage no doubt
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1842.] THE OEOLOGICAL SURVEY IN CAMBRIA. 371
is abominable, but by very careful hunting of all the natural
sections, and giving lots of time to it, the affair has at last
come out clear enougL ... It would be a long story to go
further into the old story hereabouts; that your Silurian
system must have a jolly extension at our hands over the
rocks of this land seems certain."
The extension referred to was mainly due to the labours
of Mr. Eamsay, who, since he left for Tenby, had been hard
at work among the Welsh rocks. On the 7th August of this
same year he reported progress to Murchison as follows: "I
have gradually gone over the whole of the d-devarU Cam-
brians between St. David's and Llandovery, and I can
clearly show, particularly since I came here [Pumsant],
that all your rocks, under a somewhat different form, spread
over the surface of the land at least as far as Cardigan. . . .
I should much like to show you some of the evidences of
this Cambrian revolution."
These were important labours in the progress of British
geology ; but their special interest in the present narrative
lies in their relation to Murchison and his views. It will
be seen that they confirmed his belief in the extension of
the Silurian forms of life among the older rocks, and they
no doubt contributed not a little to foster that spirit of con-
fident assertion which marked his next oration to the Geo-
logical Society. He counted as personal friends the men
by whom these researches had been conducted, but until
this summer, when he took Count Von Keyserling with him,
he had not become acquainted with the way in which their
actual work in the Geological Survey was carried on.
Phillips was then busy "running a section " across the Mai-
vems. So Murchison and his Eussian companion went
Digitized by VjOOQIC
372 SIR RODERICK MURCHI80N. [i84a
round to sea They found their friend, on a bright Sep-
tember morning, on the siunmit of the Beacon, busy with
his theodolite, and learnt something of the laborious detail
of geological surveying, so diffei'ent from the hop-step-and-
jump kind of work with which their Sussian experiences
had familiarized them.
An important change took place this autumn in the
Geological Society. Lonsdale, feeling the growing weakness
of his hesdth, and the increasing urgency of the calls of the
Society upon his powers, had resigned his Curatorship, with
the purpose of seeking rest in retirement. As Murchison
had been the means of bringing him to London, and had
enjoyed his close friendship, as well as the quite invaluable
aid which Lonsdale cheerfully rendered in palseontological
and other matters, he now took an active part in promoting
the subscription for a testimonial to the worthy Curatoi',
expressive of the universal regret at his retirement. A silver
cup, together with a sum of £600, were presented by Mur-
chison and Fitton, in name of the subscribers, to Lonsdale,
who, unable at the time to find a vent for his feelings, sent
a characteristically modest and grateful note to Murchison.
** Should life be granted me," he said, " I purpose to pursue
the study of fossil polyparies, and it will be a source of per-
sonal gratification if my friends will transmit to me any speci-
mens they may think me capable of examining, and for the
means of conducting this inquiry I shall be indebted to them."
For fourteen years Lonsdale had been in the midst of
all the activity of the Geological Society. During that time
not a publication had been issued by the Society which did
not owe much to his careful supervision. But the official
work which he performed so well, and which undoubtedly
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1842.] RETIREMENT OF LONDSDALE. 373
had DO small inflaence on the general progress of geology in
England, represented only a part, c^nd perhaps not even the
chief part^ of the obligations under which he placed the
members of the Society. There were few of the geologists
engaged, like Murchison, in active research and in inde-
pendent publication, who had not recourse to Lonsdale as an
ever ready and sagacious helper. In a body of men who,
busy with the same pursuits^ are always necessarily to some
extent rivals, there must needs arise ever and anon occasions
when unwarranted assertions on one side are met by more
or less angry recrimination on the other, and when the truth
of the question in dispute becomes clouded by the per-
sonalities of the disputants. Such cases, despite the glow-
ing eulogiums in presidential addresses, were not unknown
in the Geological Society. Lonsdale's perfect impartiality
and candour, and his tact and shrewd sense, enabled him
to moderate these ebullitions, and to preserve the harmony
of the brotherhood.
Though he now retired from Somerset House, he could
not so easily wean himself from the Society and the pur-
suits of its members, with whom he had been so long and
so intimately associated. He went down to Dartmouth to
enjoy pure air and give himself up to the unremitting study
of his favourite branch of inquiry, the structure of fossil
corals. But we find him carrying on still, as of old, a
voluminous correspondence with the President on affairs of
finance, the preparation of the Society's Transactions, the
choice of office-bearers, and other matters of business, be-
sides the more strictly scientific subjects on which they
were both engaged.
Lonsdale's resignation brought into the service of the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
374 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOF. [i842.
Society, and prominently into geological pursuits, another
naturalist of greater knowledge and wider fama When the
Curator's determination to leave came to be known, various
names were talked about in reference to the supplying
of his vacant post, among them that of Hugh Miller.
But, after some delay, the final decision among nine can-
didates was made in favour of Edward Forbes, who had
recently been chosen Professor of Botany in King^s Col-
lege, and whose brilliant researches in the iEgean gave
promise of a distinguished career as a naturalist and palae-
ontologist
The appointment of Forbes to be Curator of the Geo-
logical Society must be regarded as an event of considerable
importance in the history of geological progress in Britain.
While still an enthusiastic student of natural history under
Jameson at Edinburgh, he had struck out into that little-
trodden path of research in zoological and botanical distri-
bution wherein he continued to be throughout Ids too short
life the great pioneer. Already, by excursions in this
country, in Scandinavia, and hi Switzerland, he had been
led to recognise the connexion between geological changes
and the present grouping of plants and animals. For-
tunately provided with further and more advantageous
opportunities of concentrated research, by being attached to
Captain Graves's surveying ship in the iSgean Sea, he had
thrown quite a fiesh light on the way in which the pro-
secution of zoological research might be made subservient
to the elucidation of some of the most interesting questions
in geology, such as the history of existing species of animals
and the geographical changes of which they have been the
witnesses. By these bold and originsd investigations he
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1842.] EDWARD FORBES. 575
had in a special maimer attracted the notice of geologists.^
And now that his duties at Somerset House brought him
into direct relationship with the leaders of geological inquiry
in Britain, his subsequent scientific work took thencefor-
ward a more decidedly geological aspect.
It is not, however, in his relations to the general pro-
gress of the science, but in his connexion with the more
limited field of palaeozoic geology, that the advent and work
of Edward Forbes require notice here. His position as
Curator at Somerset House undoubtedly led directly to his
subsequent appointment as naturalist to the Geological
Survey,' to the admirable arrangement of the pal^eontological
collections placed under his charge in the Jermyn Street
Museum, and to the good service which he rendered in
working out the natural history of Silurian and Tertiaiy
rocks. It brought him also into intimate personal relations
with Murchison, De la Beche, Bamsay, and the others
on whom the progress of palaeozoic geology in this country
mainly depended.
The winter of 1842-3 was with Murchison a very busy
ona It was to be his last season of of&ce as President of
the geologists, and besides the proper official duties, which
he conscientiously discharged, he entered. with renewed zest
into the social festivities for which the Belgrave Square
mansion had now become well known. There were few
men of note in literature, politics, science, or art to whom
^ In 1841 he had raoeiyed from the Gedlogioal Society the balance of
the Wollaston fond, amounting to £30, to assist him in carrying on his
researches.
> The actoal proposal of Forbes to De la Beche for employment in the
Survey was made by Mr. A. C. Ramsay, who had known the young
naturalist weU since 1840.
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376 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON. [i842.
the soirees of the President of the Greological Society were
not^ or might not have been, familiar.
At the anniversary in February, when he would resign
office, he had determined to give an address to the Society
containing a detailed report of progress, and in particular a
more pointed statement of his position with regard to the
impending changes in Cambrian and Silurian nomenclature.
How he meant to proceed is shown in the subjoined letter
of 16th October:—
" My dear Sedgwick, — On the 1st of next month I go
to press with the work on Bussia^ which with amplifications
and emendations is composed of the memoir referred to you
last year, and two which I have read since on other parts of
Muscovy and on the Ural Mountains. The country is described
in ascending order, and I therefore must cast my Silurian
chapter at once into type, with a preamble on ' Palseozoic
rocks,' which shall render my views intelligible to the
Russians, for whom the work is hereafter to be translated.
In doing this I necessarily give a little sketch of our own
operations in the British Isles and in the Bhenish Pro-
vinces, and then go on to show how Bussia completes the
proofs desired, and confirms our views. Now in eflTecting
this to my satisfaction, I wish to have your own authority
to speak out concerning the Cambrian rocks zoologically
considered. Tou know as well as myself that on those
parts of the Continent which we have seen together, there
is but one type of fossil remains beneath an unquestionable
Devonian zone, and that we have called Silurian. The
same is still more clearly exhibited in Bussia in the lime-
stones, sandstone, and shale, which lie beneath true Old Bed
Sandstone, filled both with fishes of Scotland and shells
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1842.] CAMBRIAN AND SILURIAN. 377
of DevoiL The Silurian rocks of Eussia^ Gothland, and
Sweden rest at once on the crystalline slates of the north.
The same Buccession has been recently established (zoologi-
cally) in Brittany by Vemeuil and d'Archiac this summer,
though there they have inferior slaty rocks without fossils
unconformable to Caradoc sandstona Whilst these in-
quiries have been deciding the zoological succession on the
Continent, and extending it even into Asia, our own region
at home has been silent. I was rejoiced therefore when I
knew you had been again into North Wales, and that you
had taken young Salter with you, because you could then
make up your mind to put your oracle out, without having
it trumpeted forth by others.
" In the meantime, besides what Mr. Maclauchlan stated
in respect to Pembrokeshire, De la Beche and his workmen
assure me, that the whole of that tract is nothing more than
Caradoc sandstone and liandeilo flag, or Lower Silurian,
folded over and over in troughs, and exceedingly altered
by intrusive rocks and changed by crystallization and cleav*
age. They contend also that the very same identical fossils,
in (he verg same strata as those which I have described and
figured as Lower Silurian at Noeth Grlig, north of Uan*
dovery (and only a few miles from the Old Eed escarpment),
are repeated over and over, up to the sea-coast at Cardigan,
and to the north of it. To this I cannot say nay, because
in my work I have described descending passages into
what I certainly conceived, without perhaps sufiicient exami-
nation, to be a great inferior slaty mass, and in which I
never observed the fossils in question. If their position is
true it would be in vain to contend for Cambrian rocks in
South Wales, and certainly not as identified by organic
Digitized by VjOOQIC
378 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON.
remains, though I am certain there are inferior slaty grau-
wackes at St. David's, like those of the Longmynd in Salop,
which cure much older than my fossil Silurian — and of this
you know I have decisive proofs in Salop, where the Cara-
doc sandstone rests on the edges of the Longmynd.^
''But the question is, K there are no rocks containing
fossils differing from those published as Lower Silurian in
South Wales, are there such in North Wales, where lime-
stones appear in the oldest slaty masses, and the whole
is expanded and broken up by the anticlinals you have so
well described ? As to Bala, you know that its examination
will do nothing in establishing a distinction, and fortu-
nately I have said so very distinctly in my Silurian System,
and have asked the question, To what extent will the
OrthicUe and Leptcerice in question be found to descend into
the Cambrian rocks, and if they really constitute the Proto-
zoic type? (p. 308, SU. Syat)
" I mention this now because I understand from Lonsdale
that Mr. Sharpe is going to read a paper at the second
meeting of the Geological Society, in which he is to show
that the Bala limestone is nothing more than a calcareous
course in the middle of the Caradoc sandstona I do not
see how he is to do this stratigraphically, but as I never
made the transverse section but once, and in your company,
I do not pretend to be armed with sufficient proofs that the
limestone is inferior to the slaty flagstones on the eastern
side of the mountain in which Asaphtis Buchii and Silurian
^ This happened to be a blander on MorchiBon's part ; he was right as
regarded the unconformability, but wrong in the position which he had
assigned in the Siktrian System to the overlying strata. These are what
we now term Upper Llandovery (that is, at the base of the Upper Silorian
series), and not Caradoc
Digitized by VjOOQIC
CAMBRIAN AND SILURIAN. 379
Orthidm occur ; and on this point, by way of parenthesis, I
should like to be furnished with your view, in order that
I may keep the ' Sharp' fellow in his place, should he trans-
gress bounds.
'^ But to come to the question : If Bala is zoologically
Lower Silurian (and that you have yourself now stated in
your Letters to Wordsworth), if Coniston Water Head and
Ambleside (at the latter place Keyserling and myself con-
vinced ourselves of the same) is the same thing, and if no
older rock is known to contcdn fossils in Cumberland, it
follows, that the only fossil type which remains to be
appealed to is that of the Snowdon slates. Li our recent
visit, Keyserling and myself collected a good many fossils
both on the north and on the west flanks of that mountain,
and my friend, who is a very good conchologist, came to the
conclusion on the spot, that the prevalent and abundant
forms are two or three species of Orihis {fiahdlulum and
altemcUa) well known in Lower Silurian and Caradoc, with
a rare new form of Leptcena; and Sowerby, who has since
seen our lot, writes to me to the same effect, and teUs me
that Salter's determinations with you came to the same
results.
" Now, I have no intention whatever of writing upon this
point, except in my exordium on Palseozoics touching Bussia,
where I have to treat of them over an area as large as all
our Europe together. On that occasion, and also in taking
leave of the geologists on the 17th February, I must deliver
my opinion. Your Wordsworth letter is before me, and is
B meet subject for my comment, but I wish to have some-
thing from you touching North Wales. If this is not done,
De la Beche and Co., advancing from South Wales, will
Digitized by VjOOQIC
380 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON.
have the credit with the public of correcting you. But if
you now say that the slaty region to the north-west of the
Silurian rocks was left undefined as to fossils, on account
of your never having examined the forms you so long ago
collected (and take any line you please, either to contend or
not for great thickness of the lowest fossiliferous strata),
then I shaU be at ease, and know how to use your authority
as well as my own.^
^ Marchison's anxiety to cany Sedgwick with him, if possible, in his
change of the Silurian base-line, is well shown in this letter and in the
following postscript to it : — ** In the part which specially refers to what I
have been writing to yon about, I should, in case you wiU authorise me,
propose to write something such as follows : — After asking ' if no efforts
had heetk recently made to determine the point if there were or not a
group of older fossils than the Lower Silurian, and some paragraphs
relating thereto,' I go on to say, ' Judging from their infraposition, great
thickness, and distinct lithological characters, it was presumed (when the
Cambrian system was so named) that these greatly developed inferior
slaty rocks would be found to contain a class of organic remains peculiar
to themsdves, the more so as the few forms then discovered in them
seemed to differ from the Lower Silurian types. Subsequent researches
have, however, decided otherwiBe. In the alaty region of the north-
west of England, of which by hard labours he so long ago rendered
himself the master, Professor Sedgwick has now satisfied himself that
the lowest organic remains which can be traced are no others than those
published as Lower Silurian, whilst in revisiting the mountains of Cam-
bria and Snowdon, whose framework he was the first to explain, he has
come to similar conclusions respecting the ^oldest fossiliferous tracts of
North Wales.'
** 'In the meantime, through the labours of the Ordnance Survey,' eta
Then Mr. Sharpe ei hoe gemu anme,
** This is the form in which I should wish to place the case, both
because it is in my mind quite true, and also because, as I have said in
my letter, I wish you to speak in your own place."
Sedgwick made no objection at the time to this statement of his views.
On the contrary, when he received the proof-sheets of the address he
made comments on other parts, but, so far as can be judged from the
letters stiU extant, offered no criticism whatever on the proposed narra-
tive given in the preceding extract He returned the proofs with the
remarks, *< The papers are eiceUent, and use my hints as you think
right. ... I have looked over the slips and made marks. ... I did look over
the peroration. It is very good." It was, to say the least, unfortunate
Digitized by VjOOQIC
CAMBRIAN AND SILURIAN. 381
** The triple zoological division of the Paleeozoic rocks
(excludve of the Magnesian Limestone) is now so very gene-
rally proved to the very eastern extremities of Europe, that
it is well that we who have been the agents in first enun-
ciating it should not be frightened and driven out of our
fairly won views because the CambiiaD tail-piece was not
finished kff. For my own part, I am as convinced as it is
possible to be, that we have now thoroughly ascertained not
that, if he had really any itrong objections to the statements in the
address, he did not frankly express them at the time when the proof-
sheets were sent to hinu Had he done so we can hardly believe that he
could afterwards have fonnd occasion to say of any sentence in that
document : '* I smiled when I read this strange passsge ; bat I did not
think it worth while formally to contradict it ; in omission and commis-
sion it is a virtual mis-statement of the facts/' — {Letters to Wordnoorth,
later edition, p. 87.) Surely by first sending his friend a sketch of what
he meant to say, and then the proof-sheets of what he had said, Murchison
showed no common care to secure his concurrence. It is hard to understand
why Sedgwick should have entered into verbal and other criticisms in the
most friendly and even jocular style, and yet have left untouched a
passage which raised a " smile," and which he felt to be " a virtual mis-
statement of the facts."
But what was the " strange passage " which called forth these sharp
words? As quoted and italicised by Sedgwick himself, it ran as follows :
** We were both aware that the Bala limestone fossils agreed with the
Lower Silurian ; but depending upon Pro/eMor Sedgtoiel^s conviction that
there were other and inferior masses, also f ossilif erous, we both ehmg to
the hope that such strata, when thoroughly explored, would offer a suf-
ficiency of new forms to characteriise an inferior system."
On this passage he remarks as follows: — "When the author states
' that we both clung to the hope that the Cambrian groups would offer a
sufficiency of new forms to characterize an inferior system,' I can only
reply, that the hope to which he clung was not derived from anything I had
ever said or written ; and that I had not, in 1842 and 1843, the shadow
of a hope that any new system of animal life, any group of new forms
* marking an inferior system,' would be iound among the Lower Cam-
brian groups. I had constantly expressed, and repeatedly published, a
directly contrary optnion/* (The italics are in the original)
Now it will hardly be believed that Murchison's statement is not only
borne out by passages in Sedgwick's letters, but seems actually based
upon them. In support of this assertion two extracts may be given.
Writing to his friend after his autumnal ramble in Wales in 1842, Sedg-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
382 SIR RODERICK MURCHISOK
only the Palaeozoic, but, as I ventured long ago to call it,
the Protozoic type, and that that is no other than the strik-
ing orthidian Lower Silurian group, which, first rising up on
the flanks of old Caradoc, is extended to any thickness you
please to contend for. In this last respect, however, you
must have the fear of De la Beche and his trigonometrical
forces before your eyes, who, whilst they give 12,000 or
15,000 feet thickness to the South Welsh coal-field, are cut-
ting down our older rocks at a terrible rate. ...
" Before I left town I presented £600 to Lonsdale, in a
silver vase with a suitable inscription. Fitton accompanied
me, and the poor fellow was quite overcome. The deed how-
ever had an excellent effect, for his eyes brightened up in
the following days^ and he wrote me a most affectionate
note, saying ' that he was now enabled, even in his retire-
ment, to carry on his studies, and that he would go on with
that of the Polypifers.**
Among the miscellaneous correspondence of this period
which the President of the Geological Society carried on,
was one regarding a proposed purchase of the island of
Staffa. It was represented urgently to Murchison that as
wiok says: — '*To my knowledge of the seciUms I added nothing hut
autumn, but I hoped to make out distinct foasU groups, indicating a
descending series, and marking the successive descending calcareous
junks. But, as I told you, I failed." The italics in this and the next
quotation are underlined in the originaL Again, just before the annirer-
sary in February 1843, in reply to Murchison's request for information
(in the letter quoted above in the text), Sedgwick remarks, " In regard to
K. Wales you know my general views. I stated last year (see the abstracts)
that on unpacking my Welsh fossils I could not discover any trace of a
lower zoological system than that indicated in your Lower Silurian types.
I did however es^f)ect to find certain definite groups indicating a succes-
sion in the ascending steps of a vast section (certainly many thousand feet
thick), and my hope was last September to prove this point, but I failed
utterly, as I told you before, and at present I really know no such definite
groups."
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ADDRESS TO THE GEOLOGISTS 383
the island was likely to come into the market, no more
fitting purchaser could be found than the Greological Society
of London, and that in the hands of that learned body it
would remain as a perpetual monument consecrated to the
progress of science. It is needless to say that this project
never took shape. There is little sympathy in Britain with
any such fanciful notions regarding the acquirement of
places of great natural interest by the State or learned
societies for the good of the country and in the cause of
scientific progress. Fortunately that fairy isle is too small
and too barren to warrant the cost of protecting walls and
notices to trespassers, and its wonders are of too solid and
enduring a nature to be liable to effacement by the ruthless
curiosity of the British tourist. And so it stands amid the
lone sea, open to aU comers, lifting its little carpet of bright
green above the waves which have tunnelled its pillared
cliffs, and which are ceaselessly destroying and renewing
the beauty of the sculpture they have revealed.
From the foregoing letter to Sedgwick it is clear that
the preparation of the address to the Geological Society, and
in particular the forcible enunciation in it of his views
r^arding the classification of the older rocks, engaged much
of Murchison's attention during the winter. When at last
the anniversary came he produced a most voluminous
oration, extending over eighty-seven closely printed octavo
pages, and discussing not only the question lying at the
time nearest his own heart, but the general march of geo-
logy all over the world. Again he presents to foreign
geologists — ^^e de Beaumont and Dufr^noy — the Wollaston
medal with due laudation. After a kindly and appreciative
eulogy of Lonsdale and welcome of Forbes, he plunges at
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
384 BIR RODERICK MURGHISON.
once into the palsdozoic rocks, and is soon in the midst of
Silurian and Cambrian nomenclature, laying down with re-
newed emphasis the view that his -own Silurian deposits
contained the records of the earliest type or fades of
organized existence. In the early summer of the previous
year Sedgwick had written his now well-known letters to
Wordsworth on the Oeology of the Lake District, in which he
summarized in popular but accurate form the results of his
long labours among these mountains. Another observer, Mr.
Daniel Sharpe, already referred to, had been at work upon
the Cumbrian tracts, and transferring his knowledge of them
to the investigation of North Wales, had - announced his
belief that Sedgwick's Bala rocks were really, both by fossils
and physical continuity, the very same as some of Mur-
chison's Lower Silurian series.^ Sedgwick himself had spent
^ In the begimung of his paper Mr. Sharpe ttated that the view of the
infrapoeition of the eo-caUed Cambrian rocka of Sedgwick to the Lower
Silurian of Mnrchiaon was adopted by the latter geologist on the autho-
rity of the former. In long subsequent years, Sedgwick bitterly com-
plained that this was a mis-statement, which Murchison never corrected,
but, on the contrary, proceeded to profit by, though he had abundant
opportunity of rectifying it in this address. And the inference drawn is,
that Murchison was guilty of disingenuous conduct unworthy of a gen-
tleman, still more of a friend {Iniroduction to BrUUh PcUceozoie Fosnis^ p.
budii) But, so far from regarding it as a mis-statement, Murchison him-
self repeats it in this very address. He says that he steadily relied on
Sedgwick's original opinion, that great masses of the slaty rocks of North
Wales lay below the Silurian rocks. His respect for Sedgwick's opinion
was profound, and that opinion he believed to have been aU along in
favour of the infrapoeition of aU the so-caUed Cambrian rocks. This
belief, as we have already seen (on^, p. 225, note), was conmionly held by
geologists, and, if a mistake, Sedgwick never did anything to set it right
until he found some of his Cambrian formations claimed as Silurian, when
he maintained that he had never made any error in his work, except in being
misled by his friend. The charge of unfair conduct on Murchison's part
was utterly unfounded. Nothing could have been more candid than the
way in which he acted in this matter. Equally groundless was the accusa-
tion that he had *' stolen a march " upon Sedgwick, unless we are to be
told that under such conduct we must include making our victim privy
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ADDRESS TO THE GEOLOGISTS 385
port of the summer of 1842 in re-examining some por-
tions of the North Welsh area, with the view of clear-
ing up the difficulties in the way of reconciling his own
work with that of his friend. But he could not establish
any distinction by means of fossils between the rocks which
he had called Cambrian and those which Murchison had
termed Lower Silurian. He intimated this to the President/
who now, with evident satisfaction, announces it as further
proof that the Silurian type of organic remains had been
firmly established as the oldest in the geological record.
Murchison further dwells on the important aid given to
his interpretation by the labours of the Geological Survey,
which, as we have seen, had now been extended into the
Silurian tracts of South Wales. While eulogizing the work
of the Ordnance Geological Surveyors in Wales, he turns to
that of their fellow-labourers, and notably Captain (after-
wards General) Portlock, in Ireland, adding words of praise
to lus notice of the geological map of Ireland by Mr. (now
Sir Richard) Grifl&th — that wonderful achievement, which
gives its courageous and undaunted author so honourable
a rank among the great geological map-makers of this
century.
We need not foUow the address through its review of
contemporary foreign geology, with its elaborate analysis of
what had then been recently accomplished in Russia, the
Caucasus, Asia Minor, Turkey, the Alps, Hindustan, AfiF-
ghanistan, China, Egypt, and North America, or through its
beforehand to the theft, and sabmittiiig for his approval the plan by
which he ifl to be cozened. Yet SedgwidL asserted that the first intima-
tion he had of Mnrchison^s claim over the Upper Cambrian rocks
as Lower Silurian was obtained accidentally, some years after the seizure
had been made ! ^ See p. 382, note,
VOL. L 2 B
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386 SIB RODERICK MURCHISON.
details regarding the progress of dynamical and palseonto-
logical geology. Its main interest for ns lies in its relation
to the controversy, now imminent, regarding the paUeozoic
nomenclature and to Murchison's position in that con-
troversy. Writing of it many years afterwards he thus
expressed himself : " That address embodied all my matured
views on the classification of the older rocks, and par-
ticularly as to the unity of the Silurian system and the im-
possibility of manufacturing a fossiliferous Cambrian system
separate from the well-recognised Lower Silurian types.
Von Buch, Humboldt, and all the foreign geologists, as well
as my colleagues in the work in Bussia, saw the necessity
of this. I therefore openly proclaimed my conviction that
the masses of hard and slaty rocks of Wales to the west of
my Silurian map and sections, and which were supposed to
be Cambrian, before their order and contents were elaborated
by the surveyors and Sir H. de la Beche, were simply
folds and repetitions of the already classified Silurian rocks
of Shropshire, Hereford, Eadnor, etc. It is &om this date
that I considered my classification to be established on the
broad European scale."
Eesigning the chcdr to one of the founders of the Geo-
logical Society, Henry Warburton, Murchison concluded his
second and last tenure of the oflRce. " I bid you farewell,"
he said to his fellow-members, " as friends in whose society,
whilst acquiring knowledge, I have passed the happiest days
of my life. ... I have deeply felt the honour of presiding
over men who in the course of a quarter of a century have
demonstrated that there is no such thing as * odium geologi-
cvm,' and whose members, rivals as they must be, have only
sought to excel each other in their ardent search after truth.''
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ODIUM OEOLOOICUM. 387
Did the enthusiasm of the moment lead the writer to forget
the veiy marked ' odium ' which had been evoked during the
early Devonian warfare ? Had the angiy words of Mac-
culloch vanished from his memory ? It was well, indeed,
that they should, but not without leaving behind them just
trace enough to keep him, even in the glow of excitement,
from painting in too rosy a hue the intercourse of men whom
even the brotherhood of science could not save from the
ordinary frailties of humanity. To his eulogistic language
the geological doings of after years famished a comment of
bitter irony, since his own name, to his deep grief indeed,
and most unwillingly on his part, came to stand out pro-
minently in the most noted instance of the odivm geologic
cum which the histoiy of British science has yet offered.
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PRIKTfSD BT T. AXO A. OOKSTAfiUB, PRINTRRS TO HSR MAJnTY,
AT THE SDOIBUROH USITEB81TT PRttS.
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