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GIFT  OF 
HORACE  W.  CARPENTIER 


CHARLES   F.  TYEA^HITT   DEAKE 


i.oNnox  :   pnrsTED   nv 

SroTTISWOciriK     and    CO.,    NKW-STUKKT    SQITAKB 
AND     PAItLIAMF.NT     SlUKKT 


THE 


LITERARY    REMAINS 


OF     TlIK     LATK 


CHARLES  F.  TYRWHIH  DRAKE,  F.RG.S. 


ICDITElJ     n/r/l     A     MEMOin 


WALTER   BESANT,   M.A. 


SKCHETAUY      OK      Till'.      I'AI.ESTINK      R  X  I' I.O  I!  A  T  [ON      FUND 


JQlitb  w  porlnut 


LONDON 
RICHA.RD  BENTLEY  &  SON,  NEW  BURLINGTON  STREET 

^ublisljcrs  in  Orbinarj)  to  f)cr  Pajestg  tlic  ^iwnr 
1877 

All    rights    rrserved 


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PREFACE. 


The  production  of  Charles  Tyrwhitt  Drake's  literary 
remains  has  been  delayed  from  various  causes.  The 
book  was  to  have  been  edited  with  a  memoir  by  two 
of  his  friends,  who  knew  him  best  and  would  have 
paid  to  his  memory  the  largest  measiu-e  of  justice  and 
respect.  They  were  Captain  and  Mrs.  Burton.  Most 
unfortunately  it  has  been  found  impossible  by  them 
to  carry  out  the  task.  I  am  sorry,  for  the  sake  of  the 
memoir,  that  it  was  not  written  by  Captain  Burton. 
He  sent  me,  however,  a  contribution  which  will  be 
found  in  its  place.  It  is  hoped  that  the  pages  which 
are  here  reprinted,  fragmentary  as  they  are,  will  be 
accepted  as  no  unworthy  monument  of  the  few  years 
of  work  granted  to  their  author. 

W.  B. 

9  Pall  Mall  East: 
March  21,  1877. 


4  5299'^' 


CONTENTS. 


I'AUK 

Memoir 1 

Modern  Jerusalem 51 

Notes  for  a  History  of  Jerusalem 115 

Notes  for  Travellers  in  Palestine    .....  149 

Morocco  and  the  Moors 17l> 

Notes  on  the  Birds  op  Tangier  and  Eastern  Morocco  .  213 

Report  on  the  Natural  History  oe  the  Tin          .  237 

Extracts  from  Journai 270 

Al'l'ENPlOES          .........  307 


MEMOIR. 


Charles  F.  Tyrwhitt  Drake,  the  youngest  son  of 
Colonel  William  Tyrwhitt  Drake,  Eoyal  Horse  Guards 
Blue,  was  born  at  Amersham  on  January  2,  1846. 
He  was  educated  at  Eugby  and  Welhngton  College, 
and  was  as  a  schoolboy  remarkable  for  the  same 
characteristics  which  distinguished  his  short  manhood 
— a  resolute  thoroughness  in  everything  which  he 
undertook,  the  conscientious  discharge  of  duties,  and 
a  special  aptitude  for  natural  history.  From  an  early 
age  he  had  to  struggle  against  the  disease — asthma — 
which  oppressed  all  his  after  life,  and  interfered,  dur- 
ing his  school-days,  with  the  activity  for  which  his  tall 
and  powerful  frame  especially  fitted  him.  He  became 
a  prefect  at  Wellington  at  tlie  earliest  age  possible, 
and  his  influence  is  still  remembered  at  the  school, 
and  by  his  old  masters,  as  having  been  entirely 
exercised  in  the  direction  of  good  tone  and  liigh 
principle.  And  this  influence  especially  was  always 
quietly  exercised.  Drake  was  never  self-consciously 
virtuous,  either  as  boy  or  man.     While  at  Wellington 

B 


r*3  v:{  ;•  .-.     :  ;;.      :  MEMOIR. 

lie  made  himself  a  draughtsman,  a  botanist,  and  an 
ornithologist.  *  He  knew,'  writes  Dr.  Benson,  *  the 
flight  and  note  of  every  species.  lie  was  the  chief 
naturalist  of  the  school,  and  found  out  the  great  variety 
of  birds  which  inhabit  the  fir  woods  and  the  heaths, 
the  Finchampstead  Eidges  and  the  rich  Blackwater 
Valley.'  He  was  a  good  cricketer,  and  played,  unless 
when  prevented  by  asthma,  in  the  school  eleven. 
As  regards  the  regular  work  of  the  school,  he  be- 
came a  sound  scholar,  a  fair  mathematician,  and,  had 
his  health  allowed,  would  probably  have  done  ex- 
tremely well  at  Cambridge.  It  is  interesting  to  find 
that  one  of  the  favourite  studies  at  school  was  the 
topography  of  Palestine  particularly,  as  given  in  a 
relief  map  of  the  Holy  Land,  one  of  a  set  presented  to 
the  boys  by  the  Prince  Consort.  He  was  one  of  the 
few  witli  whom  all  recreations  and  amusements  had 
sense  in  them — an  aim  and  object  beyond  the  present ; 
and  his  favourite  amusements  now  seem  strangely  to 
have  all  been  in  harmony  with  his  last  and  most 
honourable  work  for  the  Palestine  Fund. 

His  school  life  appears  to  have  been  thoroughly 
healthy,  and  in  the  highest  sense  a  sound  preparation 
for  a  day's  work  which  must  not  be  estimated  by  the 
length  of  the  working  time.  Some  who  are  appointed 
to  work  at  the  first  hour,  and  called  away  as  early 
as  the  second,  do  yet  as  fair  a  task  by  measure  as  those 


MEMOIR.  3 

who  bear  the  whole  heat  and  burden  of  tlie  day.  The 
few  words  in  which  Dr.  Benson  speaks  of  his  former 
pupil  show  us  clearly  a  lad  whose  thoughts  were 
bent  on  lofty  aims,  a  lad  of  healthy  instincts  and  noble 
impulses,  one  of  those  who,  as  if  by  instinct  and  the 
natural  prompting  of  a  generous  heart,  range  them- 
selves from  the  beginning  on  the  side  of  manliness  and 
honour.  And  we  feel  that  it  is  just  how  such  a  boy 
would  act  when  we  hear  that  the  first  thing  Drake 
did  after  his  first  tour  to  Morocco  was  to  carry  back  to 
the  school  which  he  loved  a  collection  of  coins,  dresses, 
and  other  things  for  the  boys'  museum. 

Thus  armed  for  the  business  of  life,  possessed  of 
great  muscular  power,  tall  and  athletic,  but  heavily 
weighed  with  an  incurable  chest  weakness,  Charles 
Tyrwhitt  Drake  left  Wellington  and  entered  at  Trinity, 
Cambridge.  At  the  University,  as  at  school,  he  was 
a  man  of  many  friends,  who  yet  did  not  make  friends 
lightly.  He  became  one  of  the  leading  rifle  shots, 
the  range  being  his  most  frequent  afternoon  resort. 
His  favourite  reading  was  still  in  natural  history ; 
and  when  it  became  evident  that  his  health  would  not 
allow  a  continuous  undergraduate  course,  he  fell  back 
more  and  more  upon  the  study  of  ornithology. 

It  was  in  1866  that  he  first  found  himself  obliged 
to  leave  England  during  the  cold  months,  and  spent 
the  winter  of  that  year,  and   of    1807,  in  Morocco. 

b2 


4  MEMOIR. 

One  result  of  tliis  journey,  his  primitice^  was  a  paper 
contributed  to  tlie  Ibis  on  the  birds  of  the  country, 
which  is  reproduced  in  this  volume.  A  summer  visit 
in  18G7  produced  the  'Further  Notes,'  which  will  also 
be  found  here.  Professor  Newton,  of  Cambridge,  who 
was  then  the  editor,  writes  of  these  papers — 

*  Up  to  the  present  time  these  two  papers  furnish 
nearly  all  the  information  that  has  been  printed  on 
the  ornithology  of  that  country,  and  the  niunerous 
references  made  to  them  by  various  writers,  both  at 
home  and  abroad,  prove  that  they  are  regarded  by 
ornithologists  generally  as  of  considerable  importance, 
while  hardly  in  any  case  have  the  statements  therein 
contained  been  questioned.  On  his  first  visit  to  Mo- 
rocco his  observations  were  limited  to  the  districts  of 
Tangier  and  Tetuan,  but  no  fewer  than  142  species  fell 
under  his  notice — a  fact  alone  telling  the  zeal  with 
which  he  worked.  On  his  second  visit  he  had  much 
greater  opportunities,  having  travelled  along  the  coast 
from  Tetuan  to  Mazagan,  thence  inland  to  the  city  of 
Morocco,  and  back  again  to  Mogador.  Besides  addi- 
tional notes  on  some  of  the  species  he  had  before  ob- 
served, he  was  thus  able  to  add  twenty-seven  species 
to  his  former  list,  making  in  all  1G9  species  of  birds 
found  by  him  in  this  part  of  North-Western  Africa, 
some  of  them  being  of  considerable  interest  or  rarity. 
The'  collections  he  formed  were  not  indeed  large,  but 


i 


i ,' 


MEMOIR.  6 

he  showed  much  sagacity  in  the  choice  of  tlie  speci- 
mens he  preserved.  Prefixed  to  each  of  his  hsts  is  a 
brief  but  graphic  sketch  of  the  physical  features  of 
the  districts  through  which  he  had  passed,  indicat- 
ing his  possession  of  the  observant  eye  of  the  born 
traveller.' 

The  *  Notes  on  Morocco  and  the  Moors '  are  printed 
here  for  the  first  time.  Tliey  are  unfinished,  but  are 
published  exactly  as  they  were  left,  and  not  only 
possess  the  interest  which  attaches  to  travels  in  a 
little-known  country,  but  also  that  of  showing  the 
rough  form  in  wliicli  he  threw  the  jottings  of  his  note- 
books. 

In  this  his  first  journey  he  showed  the  quality 
of  imperturbable  temper,  which  made  him  tlie  most 
pleasant  of  travelling  companions.  It  is  curious,  com- 
paring the  statements  with  later  testimony,  to  note 
how  his  companion  (the  Rev.  G.  D.  Armitage)  in 
Morocco  dwells  upon  this  trait  in  his  character  : — 

'His  temper,  which  nothing  seemed  to  ruffle,  was 
marvellous,  making  as  it  did  all  the  discomforts  and 
trials  of  tent-life  almost  pleasant.  He  was  ever  the 
first  to  lend  a  helping  hand  in  pitching  a  tent  or,  after 
a  long  and  hard  day,  in  lighting  a  fire,  when  all  others 
were  ready  to  shirk  work  and  sleep  from  sheer  fatigue. 
After  one  of  these  long  day's  marches,  we  found  our- 
selves at  night   (owing  to  the  camel-driver's  mistake) 


6  MEMOIR. 

without  tent,  baggage,  or  eatables.  He  said,  "  I 
have  my  flask  with  me."  I  thought  he  had  poured 
out  only  part  of  the  liquor,  so  drank  all  that  was 
offered,  which  turned  out  to  be  the  whole  of  our 
suppl}'.  His  only  remark  (although  he  knew  we 
could  not  get  anything  either  to  eat  or  drink  until 
morning)  was,  "  Never  mind,  old  fellow  ;  it  Avill  do  you 
good."  We  knew  each  other  thirteen  years,  and  I  can- 
not remember  a  single  harsh  or  unkind  word  passiug 
between  us.  To  know  him  was  to  love  him,  and 
all  wlio  were  acquainted  with  him  will  testify  to  the 
tliorough  unselfishness  of  his  character.' 

His  unselfishness  and  good  temper  are  indeed  the 
chief  burden  in  the  lamentation  of  all  those  Avho  were 
afterwards  his  travelling  companions — Professor  E.  H. 
Palmer,  Captain  Biu-ton,  and  Lieutenant  Conder. 

The  Morocco  travelling  stood  liim  in  good  stead  as 
a  preparation  for  the  more  serious  business  of  his  life. 
It  inured  him  to  camp-life,  taught  him  the  manners  and 
language  of  the  East,  showed  him  how,  by  proof  es- 
pecially of  superior  dexterity  in  things  valued  by 
Easterns,  to  gain  the  admiration  and  trust  of  the  i)eople, 
and  gave  him  the  habit  of  close  and  careful  observa- 
tion, wliich  fitted  liim  peculiarly  for  his  after  work  of 
exploration  in  Palestine. 

In  the  winter  of  1868  lie  went  to  Egypt.  By  this 
lime   it   was   clear   that    University  distinction  was  a 


MEMOIR.  7 

thing  to  be  thought  of  no  more,  and  that  all  future 
winters  would  have  to  be  spent  in  the  sunny  south. 
The  letters  he  wrote  during  his  joiurney  were  full  of 
brightness  and  hope,  showing  that  it  was  a  time  of 
great  enjoyment.  Here,  for  instance,  is  an  extract 
from  a  letter  which  naturally  assumed  the  form  of  a 
Journal,  and  permits  itself  to  be  quoted.  The  style 
curiously  contrasts  with  that  of  the  carefully  weighed 
reports  which  he  afterwards  drew  up  for  the  Palestine 
Exploration  Fund. 

'  On  the  Nile,  Dec.  22, 1868. 
'  On  the  fourteenth  I  went  to  the  Pyramids  of 
Cheops.  We  left  the  hotel  about  8  a.m.,  and  down 
through  Old  Cairo  to  the  banks  of  the  Nile,  which  we 
crossed,  and  found  our  donkeys  waiting  for  us  on  the 
other  side ;  we  then  rode  about  six  miles,  till  we  came 
to  the  edge  of  the  desert  where  the  Pyramids  are.  At 
first  it  is  utterly  impossible  to  realise  their  enormous 
size  (460  ft.  high),  but  after  a  time,  by  comparison  with 
the  men  at  the  foot  and  those  on  the  top,  one  begins 
to  reahse  what  it  really  is.  Of  course  we  went  up  to 
the  top,  but  nothing  would  ever  induce  me  to  do  it 
again  — it  is  a  most  awfid  path ;  the  ascent  is  made  as 
easy  as  possible,  for  two  Ai'abs  hold  your  hands,  and 
another  pushes  when  necessary,  but  as  the  blocks  vary 
in  height  from  three  to  four  feet,  it  is  no  easy  work  to 
get  to  the  top,  but  once  there  the  view  is  fine ;  one  sees 


8  MEMOIR. 

the  fertile  land  about  the  Nile  for  many  miles  each 
way,  and  tlie  tints  on  the  desert  hills  are  most  lovely. 
As  it  is  the  custom  for  tourists  to  buy  rehcs  at  the 
Pjramids,  we  were  pestered  by  Arabs  trying  to  palm 
oflf  Binuingham  goods  for  antiques,  some  most  pal- 
pable shams  ;  for  instance,  copper  coins  silvered  over, 
but  here  and  there  showing  the  metal  through.  The 
whole  affair  is  thoroughly  cockney,  w^hich  destroys 
one's  pleasure  a  good  deal ;  Brown,  Jones,  &  Co.  have 
scrawled  and  cut  their  names  in  every  imaginable 
place,  and  the  Arabs  have  already  learnt  such  slang  as 
"  Not  for  Joseph,"  &c.  The  interior  is  altogether  a 
great  sell.  One  has  to  crawl  and  creep  over  slippery 
slabs  of  stone,  polished  by  the  Arabs'  bare  feet,  up  hill 
and  down,  till  a  moderate-sized  oblong  chamber  is 
reached ;  the  heat  and  bad  air  is  suffocating,  and  there 
ia  nothing  to  see  to  repay  one.' 

'  The  Sphinx  is  also  rather  a  delusion ;  all  pictures 
tliat  one  sees  represent  it  perched  on  a  hill,  while  in 
reality  it  is  in  a  hollow  among  the  sand-heaps.  The 
body  is  a  shapeless  mass ;  the  head  is  certainly  curious, 
but  it  has  lost  its  nose,  which  gives  it  the  most  dis- 
agreeable expression,  to  say  the  least  of  it.  The  tombs 
discovered  by  Colonel  Vyse  are  very  interesting,  com- 
posed of  huge  monoliths  of  granite  and  alabaster  in 
some  of  the  small  chambers.' 

'  Cairo  is  by  far  thi'  mo.st  ])icturesquc  town  I  ever 


I 


MEMOIR.  9 

saw.  It  is  dirty  and  dilapidated  as  a  rule,  but  that 
rather  adds  to  the  effect.  The  number  of  mosques  is 
wonderful.  I  counted  more  than  140  minarets  from 
the  roof  of  the  hotel.  There  are,  I  believe,  about  350. 
They  are  totally  different  from  Moorish  ones,  being 
circular  and  decorated.  The  bazaars  are  pecuUarly 
gay,  as  her6  the  turbans  are  worn  very  large  and  of 
gaudy  coloiurs,  and  the  dresses  are  nearly  all  coloured, 
blue  (indigo-dyed)  predominating.  This  is  very  different 
from  the  West,  where  white  is  almost  universal.  There 
are  a  great  many  Copts  here  ;  I  went  to  see  several  of 
their  churches,  which  are  curious,  full  of  paintings  like 
in  the  Greek  Church.  One  has  a  vault  where  Mary  is 
said  to  have  hidden  herself  (why,  I  could  not  make 
out)  during  the  stay  in  Eg3rpt.  I  went  to  service  in 
one  of  their  churches.  The  ceremonial  is  partly  Greek 
and  partly  Moslem.  Candles  and  incense  are  used,  the 
service  is  read  first  in  Coptic  (which  nobody  under- 
stood), then  in  Arabic ;  the  congregation  sit  on  the 
ground  and  take  their  shoes,  not  turbans,  off,  just  as 
the  Moslems  do.' 

It  was  in  the  spring  of  1869  that  he  went  to  Sinai. 
This  journey  proved  a  turning-point  in  his  hfe.  He 
met  there  the  Officers  of  the  Sinai  Survey,  consistir|g  of 
Majors  Wilson  and  Pahner,  E.E.,  Eev.  F.  W.  Holland, 
and  Professor  E.  H.  Palmer.     The  survey  was  just 


10  MEMOIR. 

completed  and  the  party  were  on  the  point  of  leaving 
the  peninsula  when  he  arrived.  He  took  their  guide, 
Salem,  and  remained  alone  for  some  weeks  visiting 
all  the  points  of  interest.  And  when  he  returned  to 
England  in  the  summer  it  was  with  his  mind  fiUl  of 
those  Eastern  scenes  which,  with  their  associations, 
retained  possession  of  his  mind  until  the  end. 

It  was  in  the  autumn  of  18G9  that  he  fairly  entered 
on  the  work  of  exploration  in  Holy  Lands.  The  Com- 
mittee of  the  Palestine  Exploration  Fund,  having  very 
fortunately  ascertained  that  it  would  fall  in  with  Pro- 
fessor E.  H.  Palmer's  plans  to  spend  another  winter  in 
the  East,  proposed  that  he  should  visit  for  them  the 
little  known  and  deeply  interesting  district  called  the 
Desert  of  the  Tih,  or  Wanderings.  The  University  of 
Cambridge  at  the  same  time  made  Charles  Tyrwhitt 
Drake  a  grant  which  might  enable  him  to  prosecute 
Natural  History  reseai'ch  in  the  same  region.  It  was, 
as  proved  afterwards,  a  country  singularly  barren  of 
animal  life,  but  the  small  collection  which  he  succeeded 
in  making  contained  several  rare  and  valuable  speci- 
mens. 

In  other  respects  the  journey  was  most  important. 

The  two  travellers  started,  so  to  speak,  at  the  Con- 
vent of  St.  Catherine,  Sinai,  where  they  examined  the 
more  important  of  the  manuscript  treasures  of  the 
})lace.     Leaving  the  convent,  they  began  by  finishing 


.  MEMOIR.  11 

up  the  survey  of  a  small  portion  of  the  peninsula  loft 
incomplete  by  Major  Wilson.  This  done,  they  pro- 
ceeded to  perform  the  main  object  of  their  journey 

the  exploration  of  the  Desert  et  Tih.  They  crossed 
the  country  from  south  to  north — Cala'at  Nukhl  to 
Hebron — thence  in  a  south-westerly  direction  to  Petra, 
and  from  Petra  by  a  little-trodden  road  through  Moab 
to  Jerusalem.  Their  baggage  was  of  the  hghtest  kind 
possible  ;  they  were  on  foot  the  whole  of  tlie  way  ; 
their  food  was  of  the  simplest ;  they  often  had  to  per- 
form their  own  cooking,  washing  up,  &c.  themselves, 
and  they  were  in  constant  danger  from  suspicious 
Arabs.  The  actual  scientific  results  of  the  expedition 
have  been  given  to  tlie  world  in  the  Quarterly  State- 
ments of  the  Palestine  Exploration  Fund,  and  in  the 
'  Desert  of  the  Exodus,'  by  Professor  E.  H.  Palmer. 
What  concerns  us  here  is  the  fact  that  hardships  and 
fatigues  were  borne  with  the  same  '  equal  mind  '  with 
which  Drake  met  good  or  evil  fortune,  that  he  was 
always  cool  and  collected  in  danger,  that  he  was  a 
perfect  travelling  companion,  and  that  he  cheerfully  in 
this,  as  in  every  other  case,  accepted  the  second  })lace. 
The  one  great  disappointment  in  this  expedition, 
a  disappointment  far  greater  than  that  caused  by  the 
scarcity  of  animal  life,  was  their  failure  to  find  any 
more  inscribed  stones  of  a  character  such  as  tlie  famous 
Moabite   Stone.      Their   chief  object   in   visiting  the 


18  MEMOIR.  ij 

country  was  to  ascertain  the  probability  of  there  being 
any  other  monument  in  the  country  of  a  like  nature, 
and,  if  so,  of  quietly  taking  steps  which  should  not 
result,  as  the  mistakes  of  IMr.  Klein  unfortunately  did, 
in  the  destruction  of  a  priceless  and  unique  inscription. 
The  opinion  arrived  at  by  both,  that  there  were  no 
other  inscribed  stones  of  such  antiquity  in  Moab, 
remains  yet  unassailed. 

After  a  stay  at  Jerusalem,  the  first  to  both  the 
travellers,  they  went  to  the  north  and  visited  Da- 
mascus, Baalbec,  and  the  Lebanon,  in  company  with 
Captain  R.  F.  Burton,  then  H.B.M.  Consul  at  Damascus. 
This  was  the  beginning  of  a  friendship  with  that  great 
traveller,  which  resulted  in  important  work  later  on. 
The  travelling  of  the  year  was  finished  by  a  visit  to 
Greece  and  Constantinople. 

In  the  winter  of  1870  there  came  to  England  a 
rumoiu"  of  the  discovery  at  Hamdh,  in  Northern  Syria, 
of  certain  stones  inscribed  in  a  character  unlike  any 
found  elsewhere.  They  appear  to  liave  been  casually 
mentioned  by  Burckhardt  early  in  this  century,  and 
afterwards  to  have  been  entirely  neglected  until  they 
were  seen  by  the  Eev.  S.  Jessup  of  the  American 
Syrian  Mission,  and  Mr.  J.  Augustus  Jolmson,  U.S. 
Consul-General  at  Beyrout.  They  took  copies  and 
showed  them  to  Professor  Palmer,  who  was  so  much 
impressed  with  the  possible  value  of  the  inscriptions. 


MEMOIli.  ,;{ 

that  he  persuaded  the  Committee  of  the  Fund  to  pro- 
vide Drake  with  the  money  necessary  for  a  visit  to  the 
place.  Thither,  accordingly,  he  went  in  June  1871. 
His  mission  was  perfectly  successful.  With  tlie  tact 
and  great  perseverance  which  distinguislied   liiin    he 

overcame  the  resistance  of  the  natives  and  tlicir  i^- 

o 

norant  superstitions  so  far  as  to  be  allowed  to  take 
squeezes  and  photographs.  A  report  of  great  interest, 
though  short,  was  sent  to  London  on  the  antiquities  of 
Hums  and  Hamah. 

Before  his  visit  there  he  had  ridden  into  the  Hauran 
with  Captain  Burton.  The  results  of  this  journey  were 
afterwards  published  in  the  volume  called  '  Unexplored 
Syria.' 

To  the  east  and  north-east  of  Hamah  is  a  region 
certainly  not  visited  during  the  present  century  by  any 
European  traveller.  It  is  called  El  Alah.  On  the 
maps  it  is  represented  by  a  perfect  blank.  Yet  it  i.s  a 
district  fertile,  riant^  and  picturesque ;  full  of  ruined 
towns — the  Arabs  say  there  are  365  of  tlicm — and 
abounding  in  Greek  inscriptions.  Drake  visited  this 
country  alone  in  the  autumn  of  1871  after  liis  Hamah 
journey.  He  rode  through  the  whole  district,  stopping 
from  point  to  point  to  examine  and  sketch  the  ruined 
castles  and  fortresses.  This  place,  the  home  of  an 
ancient  civilisation,  and  once  densely  populated,  had 
a  singular  interest  for  liim,  and  it  was,  I  believe,  his 


14  MEMOIR. 

intention,  as  soon  as  the  survey  of  Palestine  -was 
finished,  to  return  and  examine  minutely  the  ruins 
through  whicli  he  had  passed  as  a  simple  pioneer  of 
exploration.  * 

The  whole  results  of  this  year  were  published  in 
two  volumes,  called  '  Unexplored  Syria '  (Tinsley 
Brothers),  the  combined  work  of  Captain  Burton,  Mrs. 
Burton,  and  Drake.  Here  the  Hamath  inscriptions  were 
reproduced  in  full,  and  drawings  from  Drake's  original 
sketches  made  in  the  Alah  appeared  in  the  work. 

There  appears  no  better  place  than  the  present  for 
a  communication,  forwarded  me  by  Captain  Burton, 
which  speaks  for  itself: — 

'On  a  red-hot  morning  in  July  1870  I  rode  from 
Damascus  to  Bludan,  and  said  to  my  wife  "  I  have 
f\illen  in  with  two  such  nice  fellows,  and  they  arc 
coming  here — Drake  and  Palmer,  who  have  been 
doing  Sinai  and  the  Tih."  ' 

'  They  made  their  appearance  in  our  garden  on 
the  J 9th,  sunburnt,  "hard  as  nails,"  briefly  in  the  finest 
travelling  condition.  They  were  a  first-rate  working 
]):iir,  Drake  taking  the  surveying  and  mapping,  and  to 
Palmer  fell  the  linguistic  labours  of  the  expedition, 
whilst  a  thorough  good  fellowship  existed  between 
llii'in.  As  we  were  short  of  bedrooms  they  pitched 
their  t(Mits  below  Mr.  Consul-General  Wood's  house, 
our   <iiiiunor    quarters,   and    passed   a   few   quiet  days 


MEMOIR.  15 

with  us.  Both  were  somewhat  fatigued  with  tluir 
unusually  hard  work,  but  still  tliey  were  anxious  to 
visit,  in  our  company,  the  summits  of  tlie  Lil)aniis. 
We  made  hurried  preparations  for  twenly-tlirce  days 
of  gipsying  ;  and,  with  our  two  friends,  my  wife  and 
I  started  after  as  short  a  delay  as  possible,  at  the  head 
of  a  small  caravan  of  horses,  servants,  tents,  and  light 
baggage.' 

'We  spent  a  week  amongst  the  ruins  of  Ba'albak, 
trying  to  save  some  of  the  grandest  features  from  de- 
struction. We  then  rode  up  the  fertile  and  malarious 
Coelesyrian  plain  as  far  as  El  Ku'a,  a  village  about 
thirty  miles  distant  from  Iloms,  wliicli  could  l)e  dis- 
tinctly seen  in  the  clear  pellucid  air,  nnd  thus  we 
galloped  across  the  valley  towards  Ayn  Urglui.sh, 
camping  in  a  Maronite  stronghold  at  Ayn  Ata.  All 
greatly  enjoyed  the  scramble  up  the  Cedar  Col,  wliere 
we  found  banks  and  wreaths  of  snow  in  July,  and  the 
slide  down  to  the  old  Trees.  There  we  encamped  for 
some  days,  and  hence  we  visited  the  summits  of  tlu; 
Libanus  with  the  view  of  determining  the  ilisputcd 
altitudes.  Professor  Palmer  has  smce  published  a 
short  sketch  of  our  trip  in  the  -'Journal  of  the  Pales- 
tine Exploration  Fund."  A  cheerful  and  [)leasant  time 
it  was  to  all,  fitly  to  be  described  by  the  adjective 
"jolly,"  at  which  Philister  and  Philistine  turn  up  the 
nose  "  polite." ' 


16  MEMOIR. 

'  From  the  Cedars  we  were  obliged  to  part,  and  I 
cannot  say  which  of  the  four  felt  parting  the  most. 
There  is  eternal  fitness  in  the  saying  of  Haiiz  the 
Shirazi : — 

That  eve  so  pay,  so  bright,  so  plad ;  this  morn  so  dim  and  sad  and  grey — 
Ah !  that  Life's  Registrar  should  write  that  day  a  day,  thy  day  a  day  ! 

'  Drake  then  returned  to  England  for  a  while,  and 
we  kept  up  an  unintermitted  correspondence,  which 
ended  in  his  returning  to  us  in  Syria  during  the  fol- 
lowing year  (1871).  lie  arrived  rather  suddenly  on 
the  cold  damp  evening  of  March  25,  suffering  some- 
what from  his  old  enemy,  asthma ;  and  it  was  unani- 
mously determined  by  three  friends  in  council  that, 
instead  of  turning  into  the  comfortless  sohtude  of  a 
bachelor  establishment,  he  should  take  up  his  quarters 
permanently  with  us.  His  kindly  and  domestic  dispo- 
sition made  this  prospect  agreeable  to  him,  and  we 
were  glad  to  find  it  so,  as  he  was  evidently  far  from 
strong,  and  when  he  became  one  of  us  we  should  be 
better  able  to  look  after  him.  His  attacks,  frequent  at 
first,  soon  lost  their  violence,  and  his  health  under  the 
climate  and  the  life  that  suited  him  became  manifestly 
a  gainer. 

*  He  was  my  inseparable  companion  during  the  rest 
of  our  stay  in  Palestine,  and  never  did  I  travel  wdth 
any  man  whose  disposition  was  so  well  adapted  to 
make  a  first-rate  explorer.    We  all  three  visited  almost 


MEMOIR  17 

every  known  part  of  Syria,  either  for  the  first  time  or 
over  again,  taking  observations,  making  sketches  and 
skeleton  maps,  and  writing  diaries  and  accounts  of  our 
journeys.  We  divided  the  work,  eacli  taking  wliat 
was  best  suited.  My  wife  luid  charge  of  the  canij) 
generally,  and  especially  the  horses  and  the  sick  or 
wounded,  and  visited  the  harems  to  note  things  hidden 
from  mankind.  Drake  copied  inscriptions,  mapped 
the  country,  measured  the  remains  of  antiquity,  col- 
lected geological  specimens,  fauna  and  flora,  and  made 
admirable  sketches  in  pencil  and  water-colours — wc 
keep  many  of  these  as  some  of  our  most  precious  relics. 
The  time  was  passed  most  enjoyably.  Our  companion 
was  one  of  the  few  who  can  make  a  pleasant  tiiird  in 
a  menage — a  plain,  honest,  straightforward  disposition 
that  was  a  true  friend  to  both  in  an  honest  way,  inid 
that  is  high  praise. 

'A  day  or  two  after  he  arrived  from  England  I  lode 
back  from  Hums  and  Ilaniuh  with  a  native  copy  <»f  the 
"  Hamath  stones."  My  journey  had  been  for  upwards 
of  a  fortnight  over  the  Northern  desert  and  ihe  Ansiri 
Mountains,  where  the  snow  and  frost  liad  bitten  my 
fingers  and  toes.  After  a  short  rest  we  resolved  on 
spending  the  holy  week  at  Jerusalem.  My  wife  went 
under  his  charge  via  Beyrout  by  sea  to  Jaflii  and  Jeru- 
salem, where,  after  riding  down  across  country,  I  met 
them  with  our  own  horses.     "  Inner  Life  of  Syria  "  hm 

C 


18  MEMOIR. 

given  a  good  Catholic's  account  of  the  visit  to  Jerusa- 
lem and  the  holy  places ;  more  is  to  come.  Drake's 
familiarity  with  the  Holy  City  made  liim  an  invaluable 
companion ;  but  he  suffered  from  the  abominable 
climate,  and  I  well  remember  his  telling  me  that  it 
had  never  agreed  with  him.  Had  I  been  present  at 
tlie  very  beginning  of  his  last  illness,  I  should  have 
put  him  into  a  litter,  and  have  carried  him  nolens 
volens  to  the  coast.  Wlien  he  had  recovered  we  pur- 
sued our  way,  including  Ayn  Karin,  and  Hebron, 
Bethlehem,  Mar  Saba,  the  Dead  Sea,  the  so-called  tomb 
of  Moses,  the  Jordan  ford,  Jericho,  and  Ayn-el-Sultan, 
where  he,  poor  fellow,  afterwards  encamped  in  1874, 
and  caught  the  fever  that  terminated  his  short  but  use- 
ful and  promising  career.  We  then  turned  northwards 
or  homewards  via  Bethel  and  Niiblus,  the  consular 
boundary  between  Damascus  and  Jerusalem,  halting  to 
visit  Mount  Ebal  and  Gerizim,  and  Shechcm  and  the 
Samaritans.  From  Scythopohs  and  Endor  we  finally 
made  Nazareth,  where  we  were  both  stoned  by  the  so- 
called  and  miscalled  Greeks  ;  on  this  occasion  Drake 
disphiyed  the  cool  bravery  and  determination  of  liis 
character,  and  lie  was  a  great  hel})  to  me  in  saving 
my  wife  and  servants  from  the  fury  of  an  excited 
mob,  urged  on  by  their  priests  and  bishop. 

'  After  staying  at  Nazaretli  to  see  the  rioters  pu- 
nished, we  thence  proceeded  to  Cana  (?)  in  Galilee,  and 


MEMOIR.  10 

at  the  Lake  of  Tiberias  we  camped,  and  visited  by 
boat  the  seven  famous  sites  as  far  as  is  possible  to  ascer- 
tain them  ;  we  also  circmimavigated  the  little  sea,  and 
took  observations  of  temperature  which  yield  curious 
results.  Next  came  Safed,  famed  for  its  mcdiaival 
Jewish  school  of  ferocious  theology,  the  plain  of  lli'ik-h 
and  waters  of  Merom,  with  the  liirket-el-Ram  (Lake 
Phiala),  where  we  took  soundings  on  our  cjimj)- 
table,  buoyed  up  with  water,  or  rather  air-skins. 
Finally,  after  visiting  our  Druse  neighbours,  we  gal- 
loped across  our  own  desert  plain  home. 

'  Our  next  joint  excursion  was  to  the  Haunin,  whitlior 
three  hundred  Bedawin  were  sent  to  waylay  us.  We 
explored  the  Tuliil-el-Safa,  a  somewhat  risky  feat, 
which  the  Europeans  of  Damascus  had  often  wisiied 
to  do,  but  were  deterred  by  the  overwhelming  chances 
of  being  stripped  by  the  robber  tribes  ;  the  latter  were 
part  of  the  state  machinery  under  those  who  have 
turned  a  garden  of  roses  into  a  desert  and  den  of 
thieves. 

'  Drake  then  made  a  httle  trip  on  his  own  accour.t, 
or  rather  on  that  of  tlie  Palestine  Exploration  Fund, 
to  get  better  squeezes  of,  and  collect  more  information 
concernim?,  the  now  world-flimous  "  Ilamath  stones." 
The  Eev.  William  Wright  first  suggested,  mmpw  rum 
risu,  that  they  were  Ilittite— a  theory  now  confirmed 

c2 


20  MEMOIR. 

by  Birch,  Sayce,  and  the  late  George  Smith.  I  had 
been  obhged  to  satisfy  myself  with  a  native  copy, 
having  unfortunately  been  without  squeeze-paper. 

'  We  then  all  went  once  more  into  summer  quarters 
at  Bludan,  wliere  we  again  spent  a  pleasant  and  quiet 
time,  until  August  IG  ;  on  which  day  I  was  politely 
invited  to  return  home  with  the  utmost  possible  des- 
patch. Drake,  ever  staimch  and  true,  saw  me  to  my 
saddle,  and  undertook  to  help  my  wife  to  settle  the 
mass  of  business  and  hard  work  which  the  sudden 
giving  up  of  an  establishment  could  not  but  entail. 
As  the  reason  given  by  Eashid  Pasha  was  my  being  so 
unpopular  with  the  Moslems  that  they  wanted  my  life, 
I  made  my  wife  remain  at  Damascus  to  prove  its  un- 
truth ;  this  measure  certainly  could  not  have  been 
taken  had  not  both  of  us  been  siu^e  of  our  native 
friends.  She  slept  with  open  door  and  windows  in  the 
Salahiyyeh  ;  this  is  the  quarter  which  once  had  so  law- 
less a  reputation  that  at  night  none  would  venture  into 
it,  and  even  by  day  the  timid  avoided  it. 

'  Drake's  kind  heart  was  greatly  grieved  by  the  loss 
of  our  happy  home,  and  he  advised  me  to  await  at 
Damascus  the  residt  of  my  explanatory  report  to  head- 
quarters. But  I  knew  better  ;  the  greater  the  right  in 
such  cases  the  greater  the  wrong,  lie  accompanied  me 
to  the  diligence,  and  then  returned  to  Bliiddn ;  there  he 
served  all  my  interests  like  a  true  man,  and  assisted  my 


MEMOIR.  21 

wife  in  all  her  troubles,  until  lie  placed  her  on  board 
the  steamer  for  England  at  Beyriit. 

'  Our  house  furniture,  horses,  and  pets  were  all  left 
with  Drake  in  the  forlorn  hope  that  personal  explana- 
tions might  secure  a  modicum  of  justice  ;  but  tliat  day 
was  never  to  dawn.  Unfortunate  Damascus  presently 
became  the  scene  of  murders  and  disorders  of  all 
kinds,  and  she  has  gradually  declined  till  all  the  little 
English  colony  has  broken  up.  My  excellent  successor, 
Mr.  Kirby  Green,  had  anything  but  a  ha])py  S(^journ 
there,  and  he  was  not  sorry  to  exchange  it  even  for 
Scutari  in  Albania,  another  fme  specimen  of  a  consular 
den. 

'  Time  passed,  and  as  I  was  transferred  to  Trieste, 
Drake  halted  a  month  with  us  en  route  to  England, 
and  we  visited  Pola,  Aquileja,  the  caves  of  Adelsbcrg, 
the  Karst  (Carso),  and  San  Cauzian,  the  famous  hams 
or  breeding-stables  at  Lippiza ;  and  the  environs  of 
Trieste.  The  climate,  which  residents  find  so  cniel, 
agreed  with  him  perfectly,  and  the  holiday  had  a  most 
favourable  effect  upon  his  spirits.  I  should  note  that 
we  always  kept  up  a  lively  correspondence ;  we  have 
bundles  of  his  letters,  which,  however,  are  of  too  pri- 
vate and  personal  a  nature  for  publication. 

'  We  went  to  Venice  and  saw  him  off  to  England  ; 
he  promised  us  to  retiu-n  in  seven  weeks,  but  fate  willed 
that  we  should  not  meet  again.     The  cholera  broke  out 


22  MEMOIR. 

at  Trieste  (1873) ;  lie  dreaded  a  long  quarantine  in 
July,  and  he  was  tempted  by  his  friend  Sir  John  Druni- 
mond  ILiy  of  Tangier  Avitli  the  prospect  of  another 
journey  into  inner  Morocco,  an  almost  virgin  country 
in  which  liis  first  trip  had  caused  hhn  to  take  a  great 
and  pennanent  interest.  The  project  was  frustrated 
by  the  emperor's  death,  and  he  went  back  to  his  work 
in  Syria. 

'During  the  spring  of  1874  he  caught  as  before 
mentioned  the  Jericho  fever  whilst  he  was  camped  in  the 
rainy  swamps  that  bound  the  lower  Jordan.  When  a 
Httle  better  he  was  removed  to  Jerusalem  where  he  re- 
lapsed, and  where  his  horror  of  the  chmate  was  justi- 
fied, as  if  it  had  been  a  presentiment,  by  the  fatal 
result  of  his  illness. 

'  The  letter  announcing  his  death  reached  me  only 
two  days  after  hearing  he  was  not  very  well ;  to  this 
we  had  attached  but  little  importance,  knowing  that  he 
liad  l)een  weakened  by  overwork,  and  suspecting  that 
he  wanted  rest.  The  sad  news,  I  need  hardly  say,  was 
a  severe  blow. 

'  Drake's  ap{)earance  and  character  are  thus  noticed 
ill  "  Inner  Life  in  Syria,"  and  I  will  copy  it  as  our 
united  testimony  to  the  value  of  a  friend  whose  loss 
can  never  be  replaced.'  Pray  use  these  lines  in  any 
way  you  please.' 

'  lucluded  iu  tbu  luUor  was  au  extract  from  Mrs.  Burton's  work ;  see 
p.  40. 


MEMO  in.  28 

To  resume  our  own  narrative.  After  tlie  Mali 
work  came  the  survey  of  Palestine.  There  had  been 
some  difference  of  opinion  on  the  first  foundation  of 
the  Palestine  Fund  whether  it  would  be  wiser  to  besrin 
their  labours  Avith  excavations  at  Jerusalem  or  with 
the  great  survey  of  the  whole  country.  The  former 
plan  was  decided  upon,  and  it  was  not  until  a  year 
after  Captain  Warren's  return  that  the  committee  saw 
their  way,  in  the  autumn  of  1871,  to  undertake  what 
will  undoubtedly  prove  the  very  greatest  work  ever 
accomplished  in  the  task  of  illustrating  the  Bible 
and  making  its  narrative  intelligible.  With  this  work 
Drake's  name  will  be  inseparably  connected. 

The  assurance  of  being  engaged  upon  an  enterprise 
of  lasting  importance,  the  memory  of  which  will  never 
perish  while  the  Bible  continues  to  be  read,  was  in  itself 
a  subject  of  the  greatest  satisfaction  to  him.  Ue  had 
ever  before  him  the  conviction  that  he  would  not  live 
long,  and  his  incessant  activity  may  be  partly  explained 
by  an  anxiety  to  accomplish  something  during  tlic  few 
years  which  he  felt  were  granted  to  him.  This  an.xicty 
was  removed  by  the  knowledge  that  good  work  had 
fallen  into  his  hands — work  which  from  its  very  nature 
he  should  be  proud  of  doing  well. 

It  was  with  the  greatest  hope  of  being  acceptxid 
that  he  volunteered  his  services  to  the  Fund ;  and,  cha- 
racteristically, he  modestly  made  known  his  wishes  in 


24  MEMOIR. 

the  first  instance  to  one  of  tlie  committee,  Mr.  W.  S.  W. 
Vaiix,  wlio  brouglit  tlie  subject  forward  at  a  meeting 
of  the  committee  held  towards  the  end  of  1871. 

Tlie  position  was  as  follows: — Captain  Stewart,  R.E., 
the  officer  in  charge  of  the  Survey  party,  was  about 
to  proceed  with  two  non-commissioned  officers  in  Janu- 
ary 1872.     He  was  totally  inexperienced  in  Syrian  life, 
manners,  and  language.     Drake  volunteered  his  services 
in  the  capacity  of  naturalist,  draughtsman,  and  linguist. 
He  placed  his  experience  in  the  hands  of  the  committee, 
almost   giving   it   to  the  cause.     The  committee  had 
hardly  accepted  the  ofTer,  which  they  did  with  grati- 
tude, when  they  had  reason  to  congratulate  themselves 
on  their  happy  chance.     For  Captain  Stewart  hardly 
had  time  to  lay  down  a  base  line  and  commence  the 
triangulation,  when  he  was  struck  down  with  an  illness 
which  caused  his  immediate  return  to  England.     His 
services,  it  was  clear,  though  we  hoped  for  a  time  that 
he  would  return,  were  lost  to  the  society.     Then  it  was 
that  Drake  came  to  the  rescue.     He  hastened  to  Jafia, 
took  the  command,  carried  on  the  Survey,  wrote  valu- 
able reports  home,  accumulated  material  for  tlie  future 
memoirs,  and  all  the  time  had  to  look  most  carefully 
after  the  safety  and  welfare  of  the  two  uon-conmiis- 
sioned  officers,  strangers  to  the  climate  and  the  people, 
who  were  thrown  on  his  hands.     Sergeants  Black  and 
Armstrong,  attached  to  the  Survey  Expedition,  were. 


MEMOIR  25 

however,  thoroughly  stead}^  and  rehable  mon,  porfeotly 
certain  to  give  no  trouble  on  their  own  account.  In 
the  summer  Lieutenant  Conder  arrived  and  took  over 
the  command. 

The  rest  of  the  story  almost  entirely  belongs  to  the 
history  of  the  Survey.  From  January  1872  until  June 
1874,  a  space  of  two  years  and  a  half,  Di-ake  worked 
with  short  intervals  in  the  field.  Once  he  went  down 
to  Egypt ;  once  he  returned  to  England  ;  each  journey 
a  short  one,  and  on  each  occasion  undertaken  by  order 
of  his  medical  adviser,  Dr.  Chaplin,  of  Jerusalem.  The 
reports  which  he  sent  home  from  month  to  montli  were 
published  by  the  Palestine  Fund,  except  the  one  which 
appears  in  this  volume  called  '  Modern  Jerusalem.' 
This  was  published  as  a  separate  pamphlet,  and  had  a 
large  sale.  It  is  reproduced  here  in  order  to  give  it 
such  better  chance  of  life  as  a  bound  book  offers  over 
a  pamphlet.  It  is  without  doubt  the  fullest  and  most 
trustw^orthy  account  of  the  modern  city  which  has  yet 
appeared. 

As  for  the  '  Letters  from  C.  F.  Tyrwhitt  Drake,'  I 
am  perhaps,  by  reason  of  the  office  I  hold,  better  quah- 
fied  than  any  one  else  to  speak  of  the  great  pleasure 
which  they  gave  to  the  readers  of  the  periodical  in 
which  they  appeared,  and  the  eagerness  with  wliich 
they  were  looked  for.  Their  charm  was  not  so  much 
in  the  startliuir  nature  of  discoveries  made,  because 


26  MEMOIR. 

Drake  was  too  sensible,  and  knew  Western  Palestine 
too  well,  to  expect  what  are  called  brilliant  discoveries. 
It  lay  in  the  quiet  style,  the  earnestness,  the  occasional 
strokes  of  humour,  and  the  unpretending  thoroughness 
with  whicli  he  went  about  his  work.  Always,  whether 
he  wrote,  spoke,  or  worked,  it  was  as  the  quiet,  typical 
English  gentleman.  And  he  was  ever  ready  to  ac- 
knowledge at  once  any  error  of  judgment. 

Let  me  instance  one  point.     Drake,  in  common  with 
everybody  else,  was  at  first  taken  in  by  certain  forgeries 
known  as  the  '  Moabite  Pottery,'  consisting  of  an  in- 
numerable quantity  of  figures,  vases,  and  other  things, 
the  supply  of  which  proved  miraculously  equal  to  any 
demand  that  could  be  made  upon  the  fortunate  vendor. 
A  large  portion  of  the  collection  was  bought  by  the 
Germans  for  the  museum  of  Berlin.     The  authenticity 
of  these  finds  was  from  the  first  doubted  by  savants  in 
France  and  England  ;  and  before  M.  Clermont  Gan- 
neau  went  out  to  Palestine  in  1873  for  the  Fund,  he 
informed  me,  on  looking  at  the  inscribed  pottery,  that 
he  was  certain  they  were  forgeries  because  he  knew  the 
hand  in  which  the  so-called  Phoenician  inscriptions  were 
written.     He  went  to  Jerusalem  and  immediately  began 
to  trace  out  the  forger.     But  Drake  was  quietly  busy 
with  the  same  object,  and  just  before  Ganneau  trimu- 
phantly  exposed  the  whole  scheme,  I  received  a  private 
note  from  Drake  informing  me  that  he  had  now  found 


MEMOIR.  27 

out  the  chief  agent  in  tlie  aflair,  wliose  name  lie  .sent 
me,  and  enjoining  strict  secresy  until  he  gave  further 
particulars.  In  point  of  fact,  Drake  simuUaneously 
with  Ganneau,  and  quite  independently,  discovered  the 
whole  conspiracy.  And  in  s})ite  of  a  grand  altcinpt 
made  by  certain  persons  to  discredit  tlie  original  testi- 
mony of  the  Arabs,  the  pottery  has  now  been  univer- 
sally condemned.  Observe,  however,  that  Draki;  was 
immediately  ready,  on  learning  the  truth,  to  abandon 
his  former  position  without  reserve. 

After  the  arrival  of  Lieutenant  Conder,  Drake,  re- 
signing the  command  of  the  expedition,  continued  to 
write  the  Letters  of  which  I  have  spoken.  Tliey  were 
written  independently  of  the  reports  of  Lieutenant 
Conder,  so  that  the  committee  often  had  the  advantage 
of  information  on  the  same  subject  from  a  double  point 
of  view.  But,  from  the  nature  of  his  special  work  as 
well  as  from  strongly-marked  intellectual  difTerences, 
Drake's  observations,  while  they  certainly  never  rau 
counter  to,  were  at  the  same  time  never  parallel  witli 
those  of  his  colleague.^  Lieutenant  Conder,  for  instance, 

1  Lieutenant  Conder,  however,  reminds  me  that  Drake's  researchoa 
in  the  field  of  identification  were  by  no  means  without  profit.  .Vinong  the 
places  recovered  by  him,  within  the  bounds  of  reasonable  probability  aro— 

1.  Aduvunim  (Joshua  xv.  7  and  xviii.  17),  now  the  modem  Talat  od 
Dumm. 

2.  Bilemn  (1  Chron.  vi.  70),  now  Belumeh. 

3.  Hdkath  Ilazzurim  (2  Sam.  ii.  IG),  now  the  Wady  el  Aakar. 

4.  Elon  (Joshua  xix.  43),  now  Beit  Anan. 

5.  Mozah  (Joshua  xviii.  26),  now  Beit  Mizzeh. 


28  MEMOIR. 

has  always  been  impressed  above  all  things  with  the 
geographical  and  topographical  aspect  of  the  work.  This 
is  shown  by  the  vast  number  of  Bibhcal  sites  (equal  in 
nuniljcr  to  all  those  discovered  by  previous  travellers 
put  togetlier)  which  he  has  rescued  from  oblivion  or 
uncertainty.    Drake,  on  the  other  hand,  saw  in  the  tra- 
ditions of  the  people,  in  the  present  condition  of  the 
countiy,  in  its  natural  history,  and  in  the  manners  and 
customs  of  the  natives,  a  field  for  Biblical  illustration 
peculiarly  open  to   himself.     In  his   special  aptitude 
for  this  sort  of  work  he  had  but  one  rival,  a  friendly 
rival,  in  M.  Clermont  Ganneau.'     The  latter  was  cer- 
tainly his  superior  in  mastery  over  the  native  dialects, 
but   both    possessed   in   an   eminent  degree  the  rare 
faculty  of  being  able  to  elicit  from  a  peasantry  marked 
by  childishness,  suspicion,  and  timidity,  the  legends  and 
traditions,  the  folk  lore  and  the  fables  among  which, 
covered  over  with  the  accumulations  of  ages,  lie  hidden 
the  events  of  the  Bible.     The  following  extract  from 
one  of  Drake's  letters  will  show  some  of  the  difficulties 
met  with  in  gathering  information  from  the  natives : — 
'  In  the  desert  a  wady  will  generally  have  but  one 
name  from  its  head  to  its  termination  or  junction  with 
a  more  important  one.     In  these  well-populated  districts 

G.   Zarthfin  (Josliua  iii.  IG  and  1  Ivings  vii.  4G),  now  Tell  es  Sarem. 

'  I  am  ppi-akinp  especially  with  reference  to  the  officer.s  employed  in 
the  work  of  tlio  Fund,  No  one,  for  instance,  has  done  so  much  to  show 
the  miml  of  the  Syrians  as  Captain  Burton  in  his  '  Collection  of  Syrian 
l^roverbs.' 


MEMOIR.  39 

a  wady  changes  its  name  half-a-dozen  tunes  in  as  many 
miles,  taking  a  new  one  in  the  territory  of  each  villn^c 
that  it  passes  through.  The  fear  of  the  fellahin  that 
we  have  secret  designs  of  reconquering  tlie  countrj^  is 
a  fruitful  source  of  difFiculty.  This  got  over,  remains 
the  crass  stupidity  which  cannot  give  a  direct  answer 
to  a  simple  question,  the  exact  object  of  wliich  it  does 
not  understand  ;  for  why  should  a  Frank  wish  to  know 
the  name  of  an  insignificant  wady  or  hill  in  their  land? 
The  following  dialogue  will  show  that  denseness  is  not 
peculiar  to  the  traditional  Chawbacon,  I  ride  up  to  a 
man  ploughing  in  a  wady,  and  say,  "  What  do  you  call 
this  wady  ?  " 

'"Wliich  wady?     Where?" 

'  "  Why,  the  one  we  are  in  ;  here." 

'  "  What  do  you  want  to  know  for  ?  " 

'  "  To  write  it  on  the  map,"  &c. 

' "  Oh,  this  is  called  El  Wad  "  (the  valley). 

'  "  Nothing  else  ?  " 

' "  No." 

'  "  Well,  the  men  liere  must  be  illiterate  donkeys !  " 
(Turning  to  the  man)  "  Why,  when  you  go  honje  and 
say  that  you  have  been  ploughing  in  the  •  Wad,'  jic-r- 
haps  they'll  think  that  you've  been  on  tlie  other  side  of 
that  hill  yonder.' 

'(In  a  tone  of  pique)  "Oh  no  !  I  .should  siy  Fvc 
been  in  Wady  Serar." 


30  MEMOIR. 

'  "  Then  you  call  this  Wady  Scrar  ?  " 

'  "  Yes,  that's  what  we  call  it." 

'A  little  sarcasm  is  a  weapon  that  seldom,  if  ever, 
fails  to  penetrate  the  Syrian  perceptions,  for  the  native, 
with  all  his  ignorance  and  stupidity,  is  essentially  vain, 
and  by  this  means  many  a  point  may  be  gained  or  bit 
of  information  acquired  which  no  amount  of  bullying, 
no  length  of  entreaties,  would  serve  to  accomplish.' 

The  following  extract  illustrates  with  what  apparent 
carelessness,  as  if  the  thing  were  not  really  a  triumph 
of  linguistic  power  and  personal  tact,  he  would  embody 
in  a  paragraph  fiicts  and  legends  which  had  taken  days 
and  weeks  to  collect.  It  shows  also  the  curious 
melange  of  fact  and  fiction  in  which  the  native  tradi- 
tions survive  : — 

'  The  tomb  of  Weli  Iskander,  which  stands  near 
here,  has  proved  a  most  valuable  trigonometrical  station. 
This  personage  is,  on  the  authority  of  the  Kadi,  one  of 
the  kings  of  the  Children  of  Israel,  but  I  cannot  find 
any  foundation  for  this  legend  in  history,  imlcss  it  be 
some  memory  of  Alexander,  son  of  Herod,  who  was 
strangled  at  Sebaste,  but  buried  at  Alexandrium  (Jos. 
J^.  J.  1  xxvii.  6).  Others  say  that  it  is  a  makam  in 
honour  of  Alexander  the  Great,  of  whom  Moslem 
legends,  with  tiieir  usual  disregard  for  chi-oiioloiiy,  tell 
marvellous  tales.  He  was  a  negro,  the  son  of  El 
I)h;il)'a;ik,  King  of  lliniyar,  and  a  Greek  i)rincess,  and 


MEMOIR  31 

is  called  Iskander  z\d  Karnayn^  "  Alexander  with  tlu* 
two  horns,"  wliich  grew  like  a  ram's  from  liis  temples. 
To  conceal  them  he  invented  the  turban  ;  he  also  in- 
vented the  fashion  of  shaking  hands.  He  had  an  inter- 
view with  Abraham  in  Wady  Seb'a  (Beersheba)  D.r. 
300 ;  his  conquests  extended  over  the  world,  and 
amongst  other  notables  he  slew  Yajuj  and  Majuj  (Gog 
and  Magog),  who  were  each  240  feet  higli ;  and  to 
avoid  the  plague  which  would  ensue  from  tlie  putrefiic- 
tion  of  such  a  mass  of  liesh,  lie  caused  an  army  <>1" 
birds  of  prey  to  tear  off  their  llesh  and  carry  it  to  the 
sea.  These  giants  were  omnivorous;  they  ate  trees, 
crops,  men,  horses,  and  cattle,  and  were  able  to  diink 
the  lake  of  Tiberias  dry  in  a  single  day.  Some  of  their 
race  who  were  also  cannibals,  rode  ants  as  large  ns 
camels  instead  of  horses.  Alexander  was  a  fit  hero  to 
cope  with  such  monsters,  as  his  nose  was  three  spans 
long  and,  of  course,  the  rest  of  his  body  in  proportion. 
Oct,  the  Kintj  of  Bashan,  to  reach  whose  knee  Moses, 
who  was  twenty  cubits  high,  took  an  axe  twenty  cubits 
long,  and  leapt  up  twenty  cubits  from  the  earth,  nmst 
doubtless  have  been  a  connection  of  these  giants.' 

The  picture  which  he  drew  of  the  fellaheen  is  a 
dark  one,  but  not  darker  than  the  reality  in  the  ojjinion 
of  those  wlio  know  them. 

'From  earhest  infancy  they  arc  brought  uj)  in  utter 
ignorance ;  they  are  never  children  ;  the  merry  laughter 


32  MEMOIR. 

and  sports  of  European  cliildhood  are  here  quite  un- 
known. At  tliree  years  old  they  are  httle  men  and 
women  with  wonderful  aplomb.  Tiny  dots  scarcely 
able  to  toddle  may  be  seen  gathering  khobhayzeli  (wild 
mallows)  for  the  evening  meal,  and,  when  they  have 
filled  the  skirts  of  their  one  wee  garment,  will  trot 
home  as  sedately  as  though  the  cares  of  life  were 
already  pressing  heavily  on  their  shoulders.  I  have 
seldom  in  this  countiy  heard  a  genuine  laugh  from 
man,  woman,  or  child  ;  the  great  struggle  for  existence 
seems  to  have  crushed  all  but  fictitious  mirth. 

'  The  fellaheen  boys — very  rarely  the  girls — take 
cliarge  of  the  flocks  and  herds  till  they  are  old  enough 
to  consider  themselves  men ;  thus  exposed  to  all 
weathers  they  are  as  hardy  as  their  charge,  but  if  at- 
tacked by  sickness  one  is  as  little  cared  for  as  the 
other,  and  chronic  coughs,  fevers,  rheumatism,  and 
ophthalmia,  are  the  consequent  results. 

'  The  physical  and  mental  degradation  of  the 
women,  \\\\o  are  mere  animals,  proletaires,  beasts  of 
burden,  cannot  but  have  a  most  injurious  efTect  upon 
the  cliildren.  The  foul  language  in  common  use  by 
men,  women,  and  children,  but  especially  the  latter,  is 
sUirtling. 

'  A  fatlier's  pride  in  his  children  is  little  better  than 
that  o{'  tlie  beasts  for  their  ofTsin^ing  ;  lie  lias  no  care 
for  their  improvement  in  any  way,  and  consequently 


MEMOIlt.  jia 

they  grow  up  utter  savages,  never  corrected  for  faulis 

nor  praised   for  doing  well — often  the  reverse and 

ignorant  to  the  last  degree.  Besides  this,  the  children 
are  spoilt,  and  have  their  own  way  completely ;  if 
thwarted  they  abuse  their  jmrents  and  elders,  who 
merely  return  the  abuse  with  interest.  More  tiian 
once  I  have  had  a  sick  child  brought  for  me  to  doctor, 
but  on  the  brat's  objecting  to  have  eye-lotion  adminis- 
tered, or  even  to  be  closely  looked  at,  the  fond  parent 
would  remark,  "  Don't  um  like  medicine,  then  uin 
shan't  have  it  then,"  and  sent  the  little  wretch  away, 
looking  upon  me  with  horror  and  indignation  for  sug- 
gesting a  shght  correction. 

'Privacy  is  absolutely  unknown.  Anybody's  busi- 
ness is  everybody's  business.  If  any  transaction,  pri- 
vate quarrel,  or  discussion,  be  going  on,  every  one 
present  puts  in  his  or  her  word.  Hence,  in  villages 
where  there  are  two  factions,  brawls  ending  in  blood- 
shed have  not  unfrequently  arisen  out  of  petty  disputes 
between  women  and  children.  For  private  talk  it  is 
common  to  see  two  or  three  men  seated  under  a  tree 
in  an  orchard  or  olive  grove,  where  there  is  no  po.-5si- 
bility  of  being  overheard. 

'  The  fellaheen  are  all  in  all  the  worst  ty|)e  of 
humanity  that  I  have  come  across  in  the  East.  Tlu' 
'Ammarin  and  Lyathineh  of  Petra  are  perhaps  greater 
ruffians,  being  beyond  the  reach  of  lrooi)s,  but  {\w\ 

D 


M  MEMOIR. 

are  known  to  be  lawless  plunderers,  and  the  traveller 
expects  the  worst  from  them.  The  fellah  is  totally 
destitute  of  all  moral  sense ;  he  changes  his  pledged 
word  as  easily  as  he  sHps  off  his  abha ;  robbery,  even 
when  accompanied  by  violence  and  murder,  is  quite  in 
his  line,  provided  he  can  do  it  with  little  fear  of  detec- 
tion. To  one  who  has  power  he  is  fawning  and  cring- 
ing to  a  disgusting  extent,  but  to  one  whom  he  does 
not  fear,  or  who  does  not  understand  Arabic,  his  inso- 
lence and  ribald  abuse  are  unbounded.  As  an  instance, 
I  may  quote  the  fact  that  when  we  were  taking  obser- 
vations from  Bayt  'ur  el  Foka,  the  men  were  servile 
and  deferential  before  me,  but  a  few  days  later  one 
of  the  non-commissioned  officers  and  a  native  servant 
rode  past  the  place,  and  were  abused  in  most  scurrilous 
language  by  the  children,  who  were  egged  on  to  it  by 
their  elders. 

'  I  am  well  aware  that  this  slight  though  far  from 
hasty  sketch  will  seem  overcoloured  to  man}'^  whose 
acquaintance  with  the  country  is  but  that  of  a  holiday 
tourist ;  but  a  more  intimate  contact  with  the  people 
and  knowledge  of  their  language  would  soon  modiiy 
any  favourable  ideas  based  upon  tlicir  picturesque 
vagabondism,  and  the  transient  skin-deep  civility  pro- 
duced l)y  a  backshish.  Tlie  fellaheen  themselves  have 
often  said  to  nn',  witli  tliat  implied  exception  in  their 
own  t'lvour  so  (characteristic  of  the  semi-savage,  "All 


MEMOIR.  85 

the  fellaheen  are  Hars,  poor  men  always  aiv ;  \vc  know- 
that  the  Franks  always  speak  the  truth,  l}ut  f)ur  peoj)lo 
never  do."  The  Syrian  proverb,  "  Ljnng  is  tlie  salt  of 
a  man,"  is  characteristic' 

These  are  the  strongest  words  ever  written  by  Diiike. 
That  they  come  from  an  observer  of  singularly  calm 
mind,  and  from  one  with  whom  sobriety  of  exi)rcssi<)ii 
was  a  virtue,  makes  their  weight  all  tlie  stronger,  lie 
returns  to  the  subject  in  describing  the  modern  cave- 
dwellers,  the  sole  survivors  of  the  ancient  Iloi-ites  of 
Syria. 

'  Modern  Troglodytes  inhabit  the  old  eaves  in  com- 
mon with  their  cows,  sheep,  and  goats.     The  entianci- 
s  usually  a  smooth-dressed  passage  cut  in  the  rot-k, 
about  3^  ft.  to  4  ft.  wide,  open  above,  and  descending 
either  by  an  inclined  plane,  or  shallow  ste|)s,  to  the 
doorway  of  the  cave,  which  is  4  ft.  by  2j,  ft.     The 
walls  of  the  cave  itself  are  seldom  smoothed  ;  in  ^•hape 
it  is  circular  or  oval,  and  rarely  6  ft.  in  height.     The 
centre  is  occupied  by  the  cattle,  while  the  portion  re- 
served by  the  human  part  of  the  community  is  marked 
off  by  a  line  of  stones,  and  sometimes  assumes  the  form 
of  a  mastabah,  or  slightly  raised  narrow  dais.     The 
manure  is  canied  out  every  morning  and  dejjosited  in 
a  heap  just  so  near  as  not  entirely  to  block  up  the 
gangway.     The  state  of  the  cave  after  a  heavy  down- 
pour of  rain,  which  contributes  some  six   inches  of 

D  -2 


86  MEMOIR. 

water  to  the  general  Augean  uncleanness,  tlie  slimy 
clamp  of  the  walls,  the  mosquitoes,  the  vermin,  the 
reek  of  men  and  beasts,  makes  an  ordinary  English 
pigsty  a  palace  by  comparison.  And  yet  the  indolent, 
able-bodied  rascals,  dignified  by  the  title  of  reasonable 
beings,  who  own  this  byre  are  too  lazy  to  build  them- 
selves huts,  but  prefer  using  the  caves  bequeathed 
them  by  the  Hebrews  and  heathen  of  old,  and  lounge 
over  the  hills  with  their  herds,  or,  rolled  in  their  ahbas^ 
snooze  in  some  sheltered  nook  without  a  thought  or  an 
aspiration  beyond  cramming  their  stomachs  with  crude 
wild  herbs,  or  gathering  a  few  piastres  by  hook  or  by 
crook,  but,  most  important,  with  the  least  possible 
exertion  to  themselves.  These  men  are  often  too  in- 
dolent to  turn  an  honest  shilling  by  acting  as  guide  for 
two  or  three  hours,  but  will  make  their  miserable 
women  and  children  tramp  ten,  fifteen,  or  more  miles 
in  the  day,  to  and  from  market  to  sell  a  bundle  of  dry 
stalks,  called  by  courtesy  firewood,  a  skin  of  milk,  or  a 
few  eggs,  worth  in  all  sixpence  or  eightpence.  The 
cave-dwellers,  I  must,  however,  allow,  are  sunk  but 
little  lower  than  their  house-sheltered  brethren.  Their 
wants  are  few,  and  their  means  of  supplying  them 
equally  scanty.' 

lie  had  a  keen  appreciation  of  scenery,  and  a 
power  of  describing  what  he  saw,  which  he  exercised, 
in    the    opinion    of  many  readers,  too   seldom.     But 


MEMOIR.  87 

Palestine  is  not  a  country  of  fine  scenery,     lie  says 
himself : — 

'  Beautiful  scenery  can  hardly  witli  trutli  be  saitl  to 
exist  in  this  country,  but  some  of  the  prettiest  views  in 
Palestine  proper  are  to  be  seen  by  looking  westwards 
from  the  edge  of  the  central  range.  At  one's  feet  arc 
rugged  valleys  more  or  less  clad  witli  brushwood,  and 
olive  groves  strongly  contrasting  with  the  white  lines 
of  upheaved  limestone  which  gleam  lilce  the  .skele- 
ton ribs  of  a  dead  cultivation.  Beyond,  softened  by 
distance,  lies  the  great  maritime  plain,  here  a  vivid 
green,  denotmg  a  tract  of  young  wheat,  there  a  fallow 
of  rich  red  soil  bordered  by  a  sombre  mass  of  olive 
trees,  rendered  still  blacker  by  the  shadow  of  a  })assing 
cloud,  while  a  gleam  of  sunshine  shows  off  the  white 
houses  of  Lydd  and  Eamleh  and  the  fine  tower  of  the 
"  White  Mosque  "  against  the  setting  of  gloomy  trees. 
Par  beyond  these  a  thread  of  golden  sand  divides  the 
emerald  of  the  plain  from  the  turquoise  of  the  sea.  A 
rounded  mass  of  white,  in  shape  like  an  exaggerated 
molehill,  ghstens  at  the  north  end  of  the  sand  tlunes. 
This  we  recognise  as  Jaffa ;  beyond  lies  the  sea,  flecked 
here  and  there  with  a  tiny  white  speck,  the  sail  of  s^onie 
coasting  trader.  Nearer  beneath  us,  in  the  Shephelah, 
and  lower  slopes  of  the  niain  range,  nestle  countless 
villages,  few  of  wliose  names  have  yet  blackened  any 
map,  for  the  land  of  tlie  two  tribes  of  Beni  Uarith  (tlie 


38  MEMOIR. 

northern  and  the  southern)  is  as  yet  a  terra  incognita, 
where  tlie  map-maker  lias  not  even  ventured  upon  the 
normal  wady  resembhng  rather  the  veins  in  a  laurel 
leaf  than  an  intricate  system  of  valleys  draining  an 
abrupt  mountain  slope.' 

We  must,  however,  leave  these  official  letters.  They 
were  all  published  as  they  were  received,  without  alte- 
ration, in  the  pages  of  the  Quarterly  Statement  of  the 
Palestine  Exploration  Fund.  And  it  may  not  be  without 
importance  to  record  that  the  general  interest  aroused 
by  these  letters,  the  reports  of  M.  Clermont  Ganneau, 
and  those  of  Lieutenant  Conder  is  proved  by  the  fact 
that  while  the  number  of  the  Society's  Journal  printed 
at  the  commencement  of  the  Survey  was  only  2,000,  tlie 
number  required  in  1874  to  1876  had  risen  to  5,000. 
So  mucli  for  writing  which  was  studiously  quiet,  for 
work  which  might  be  thought  uninteresting  to  most, 
and  for  discoveries  which  were  never  once  sensational. 
No  Moabite  Stone,  no  Deluge  Tablet,  has  rewarded  our 
officers  in  Western  Palestine.  Nor  is  it  likely  that  one 
will.  Ikit  the  Great  Map  and  Memoirs  will  remain, 
and  in  the  latter  will  be  incorporated  and  preserved  the 
best  work  of  Tyrwhitt  Drake. 

The  piivate  letters  sent  home  by  him  during  this 
period  are  full  of  life  and  hope.  If  he  has  doubts 
about  the  future,  they  are  doubts  of  his  own  health, 
and  arc  characteiislically  suppressed.     Many  of  those 


MEMOIIi.  30 

written  to  his  friends  Captain  and  Mrs.  Burton  luive 
been  placed  in  my  hands.  I  should  like  to  publish 
some  of  them,  but  they  are  too  full  of  detiiils  quite  i)er- 
sonal.  He  keeps  Mrs.  Burton  informed  of  the  welfare 
of  her  favourite  horses,  of  the  death  of  a  dog  which  had 
belonged  to  her ;  reminds  her  of  scenes  which  he  had 
visited  last  with  her  and  Captain  Burton  ;  is  anxious  t() 
learn  how  her  book  ('Inner  Life  of  ISyria')  is  getting 
on ;  talks  of  a  short  journey  he  proposes  to  make  in 
Morocco,  by  a  route  well  known  to  Europeans  ;  speaks 
of  his  own  liability  to  illness  as  a  thing  of  light  import- 
ance ;  and  so  on — the  kind  of  letter  which  is  but  the 
continuance  of  confidential  talk  among  friends  who 
know  and  trust  each  other.  To  read  such  letters  is  to 
feel  hke  listening  at  a  keyhole. 

Among  the  papers  which  follow  will  be  found  two 
fragments  which  I  have  called  '  Notes  for  Travellers  in 
Palestine  '  and  '  Notes  on  the  History  of  Jerusalem.' 
They  form  the  only  portion  written  of  a  projected 
magnum  opus  in  which  he  proposed  to  treat  of  Tales- 
tine  and  the  Holy  Lands  generally,  not  as  the  writer  of 
a  guide  book,  nor  as  an  officer  of  a  scientific  expedi- 
tion, nor  as  a  naturalist.  His  idea  was  to  produce 
a  book  which  should  form  a  pleasant  and  instructive 
travelling  companion,  a  trustworthy  book  of  reference, 
or  a  book  which  might  be  read  for  its  own  sake.  Such 
a  book  could  only  be  written  by  a  man  who  has  hved 


40  MEMOIR. 

long  in  the  country,  and  who  knows  it  as  none  but  one 
of  the  officers  of  the  Survey  Expedition  could  possibly 
know  it.     But  it  remains  to  be  written. 

Tliere  is  little  more  to  be  said.  It  cannot  be 
doubted  that  throughout  the  Expedition  he  suflered 
much  in  health.  A  man  less  enthusiastic  would  have 
quitted  Palestine,  and  so  perhaps  escaped  the  sad  fate 
which  awaited  him  there.  An  attack  of  dysentery 
which  seized  him  at  the  very  beginning  of  his  Eastern 
work,  and  prevented  him  from  joining  the  Sinai  Survey, 
might  have  been  taken  as  an  omen. 

The  journey  with  Professor  Palmer  was  long  and 
fatiguing,  but  he  seemed  to  have  felt  no  ill  effects  from 
it.  Then  came  the  harassing  and  difficult  position  after 
Captain  Stewart's  departure,  when  the  whole  responsi- 
bility of  the  new  Survey  fell  upon  him,  and  a  failure  at 
the  beginning  might  have  injured  the  progress  of  tlie 
work  permanently.  A  short  run  down  to  Egypt  was 
ordered  by  Dr.  Chaplin,  and  set  him  up  again.  In 
1873  he  came  to  England  for  a  brief  visit  in  the  sum- 
mer and  returned  in  September.  I  leave  his  friend 
and  companion  Lieutenant  Conder  to  tell  the  rest  of 
the  sad  story  in  his  own  words  : — 

'On  his  return  in  October  we  all  thouglit  him 
looking  stronger  and  better.  Then  came  tlie  most 
serious  check  our  v/ork  ever  sustained,  of  which  little  is 
known  to  others  than  members  of  tlie  party.     In  No- 


MEMOIR.  41 

vember  tlie  terrible  Jericho  fever  broke  out  in  our 
camp  at  'Ain  el  Sultan.  In  two  or  tliree  days  no  fewer 
than  ten  members  of  the  party,  including  Drake,  were 
struck  down,  and  the  anxiety  of  those  who  escaped  was, 
as  may  be  imagined,  very  great.  A  full  day's  journey 
(and  it  was  by  special  Providence  that  we  were  not 
more)  from  a  doctor,  or  from  any  source  of  supply,  in 
a  malarious  climate,  a  desert,  and  surrounded  by  wild 
and  hostile  tribes,  with  most  of  the  servants  incapable, 
and  the  rest  only  kept  from  deserting  us  by  the  cer- 
tainty of  being  shot  down,  the  anxiety  of  the  position 
w^as  as  trying  as  can  well  be  imagined.  The  un- 
exampled kindness  of  Dr.  Chaplin  and  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Neil,  under  the  circumstances,  is  an  honour  to  Eng- 
land. Though  suffering  himself,  and  quite  unfit  to 
be  out  of  bed,  the  doctor  mounted  his  horse,  and, 
accompanied  by  Mr.  Neil,  set  out  to  come  down  to 
us  at  Jeri(3ho,  and  met  us  bringing  up  Mr.  Drake  in 
the  litter.  The  hotel-keeper,  Mr.  Hornstein,  at  tlie 
risk  of  losing  every  one  of  his  guests,  took  him  in,  and 
spared  no  pains  to  make  him  comfortable. 

'  The  English  hospital  was  a  refuge  for  our  poor 
servants.  The  care  and  skill  of  Dr.  Chaplin  saved 
Drake's  life,  and  probably  that  of  others.  His  recovery 
was  rapid,  and  his  state  of  health  seemed  more  satis- 
factory than  it  had  been  for  a  long  time,  but  he  was,  I 
think,  quite  unaware  of  the  extreme  danger  lie  had 


42  MEMOIE. 

gone  through.  I  found  six  months  later  that  lie  had 
never  known  how  Dr.  Chaplin,  suffering  himself  most 
cruelly,  had  watched  with  me  through  a  whole  night 
of  delirium,  hardly  expecting  that  he  would  live  till 
morning.  We  both  felt  at  the  time  that  he  oufrht  on 
his  recovery  to  leave  the  country,  and  I  sliall  always 
regret  that  I  did  not  represent  this  more  strongly  to 
the  Committee ;  but  this  recovery  was  so  rapid,  and 
apparently  so  satisfactory,  that  it  justified  us  in  hoping 
he  might  be  able  to  continue  the  work. 

*  I  have  enlarged  on  these  circumstances,  thinking 
it  might  be  some  consolation  to  his  friends  to  know 
that  all  care  was  taken  of  him  in  his  first  illness,  whence 
they  may  judge  that  he  was  equally  well  cared  for  and 
attended  during  his  last. 

'The  survey  of  the  Jordan  valley  was  resumed. 
The  exposure  and  hardship  were  greater  than  anything 
we  had  before  endured.  For  ten  days  we  drank 
brackish  water,  and  for  nearly  all  the  time  we  were 
subject  to  alternations  of  extreme  heat  and  cold,  snow, 
rain,  and  unusual  atmospheric  pressure.  The  whole 
party  was  much  exhausted,  although  consisting  of 
men  beyond  tlie  average  in  strength  and  power  of 
endurance.  It  was  true  that  Drake  was  for  more 
cautious  and  saving  of  his  strength  than  formerly,  but 
he  was  unal)lc  to  escape  the  effects  of  rain  and  malaria. 

'  On   leaving  the  countiy  I   had   felt  some  appre- 


MEMOIR  43 

hensions  of  the  return  of  the  fever  m  summer,  and  Imd 
written  to  his  friends  at  Damascus,  where  I  expected 
him  to  be,  warning  them  not  to  allow  him  to  jouriiry 
alone  in  June — a  time  when  he  usually  suffered  from 
low  fever.  When  the  news  arrived  that  he  liad  been 
seized,  I  could  not  but  feel  thankful  that  he  was  still 
in  Jerusalem,  knowing  that  the  medical  care  he  would 
get  there  was  far  superior  to  any  in  other  parts  of 
Palestine.  In  the  face  of  such  complications,  ln)w- 
ever,  as  followed  rapidly,  no  medical  skill  could  be 
of  use. 

'  Of  Drake's  personal  character  it  will  hardly 
become  a  younger  man  to  speak.  I  always  felt  the 
comfort  of  his  experience  and  his  just  and  honourable 
dealing.  His  fitness  for  the  work  was  in  some  respects 
peculiar,  and  he  may  be  best  judged  by  the  fact,  that 
whilst  travelling  in  company  of  men  of  veiy  various 
disposition  and  ability,  he  never  complicated  the  dif- 
ficulties of  work  by  personal  quarrels,  and  was  well 
spoken  of  by  all.  His  excellent  colloquial  knowledge 
of  Arabic,  no  less  than  his  fine  figure  and  skill  in  all 
exercises,  made  him  unusually  respected  by  the  Arabs 
and  native  authorities.  His  justice,  integrity,  and  firm- 
ness were  qualities  invaluable  in  the  East,  and  his 
thorough  good-nature  enabled  us  for  two  long  years 
of  trying  work,  in  a  delicate  relative  position,  to  live 


44  MEMOIR. 

together,  almost  unseparated,  without  so  much  as  a 
single  unkind  word  passing  between  us.' 

He  died  June  23,  1874. 

The  last  words  in  Lieutenant  Conder's  letter  are, 
as  I  said  before,  the  burden  in  the  regrets  of  all  who 
knew  him.  Drake  was  a  man  from  whose  lips  no 
single  unkind  word  ever  passed.  No  wonder  that  he 
was  a  man  of  many  friends. 

Dr.  Benson  reads  in  this  story  of  a  broken  and  un- 
finished life  the  great  lesson  that  he  treated  his  natural 
disadvantages  as  if  they  were  actual  calls  to  diversified 
pursuits,  actual  qualifications  for  more  work  which  lay 
ahead  of  him  though  he  knew  not  where.  That  is,  no 
doubt,  most  true.  But  the  life  of  such  a  man  contains 
many  lessons.  The  one  we  select  for  our  own  reading 
depends  upon  ourselves ;  perhaps  even  upon  our  moods. 
Others,  who  knew  Tyrwhitt  Drake,  might  like  better 
to  think  of  him  as  a  man  who  from  his  boyhood 
upwards  was  content,  first,  to  wait  patiently  till  he 
had  got  a  firm  sense  of  his  duty,  and  then  to  walk 
steadily  along  tlie  patli,  taking  in  patience,  and  as  all 
in  the  day's  work,  whatever  happened  on  the  way. 

W.  B. 


MEMOIB.  jr, 


NOTE   TO   MEMOIR. 

The  following  touching  tribute  is  tliat  from  Mi\s. 
Burton,  referred  to  in  page  24  : — 

'  We  sat  in  the  English  burial-gTound  on  Mount 
Sion  this  afternoon,  talking,  and  picking  a  (lower  liere 
and  there.  How  httle  any  of  us  thought  that  six  months 
hence  we  should  have  left  S}Tia,  and  that  three  yt-ars 
later  our  dear  friend  and  travelling  companion,  Tyrwhitt 
Drake,  would  lie  on  this  very  spot.  A  young  man, 
and  full  of  promise  for  a  brilliant  Eastern  and  scien- 
tific career,  his  personal  appearance  was  tall,  powerful, 
fair,  but  manly,  distinguished  for  athletic  and  llcUl 
sports,  for  riding,  walking,  swimming,  and  shooting. 
His  intellectual  qualities,  with  a  mind  so  stocked  with 
all  kinds  of  information,  made  me  wonder  how  at 
twenty-four  years  of  age  he  could  know  so  much. 
His  mastery  of  languages — Arabic  and  others— his 
wonderful  eye  for  groimd,  and  knowledge  of  topo- 
graphy, made  him  a  most  agreeable,  and  eventually 
an  indispensable,  companion  in  our  excursions.  He 
was  an  excellent  draughtsman,  and  he  sketched  admi- 
rably, as  these  pages  show.  In  character  and  dis- 
position he  was  a  thorough  Englishman,  the  very  soul 
of  honour  ;  reserved  and  silent  in  manner,  as  warm  of 


46  MEMOIR. 

heart,  he  observed  much  and  thought  more,  and  had 
an  innate  knowledge  of  the  world.  He  got  on  well 
with  everyone  ;  he  won  all  hearts,  and  was  equally- 
respected  by  Europeans  and  natives.  He  made  very 
few  intimates,  but  he  was  a  friend  to  the  back-bone. 
He  had  that  dogged  determination  which  is  quite 
English ;  once  a  resolve  was  made  he  never  turned 
back,  and  that  tells  with  Syrians.  He  lived  with  us 
and  travelled  with  us  ;  Captain  Burton  and  I  loved 
him  like  a  younger  brother  :  he  repaid  us  in  kind.  We 
thought  his  health  required  care  for  a  year  or  two, 
and  as  long  as  he  was  with  us  we  looked  after  liim  ; 
he  often  told  us  that  he  was  growing  out  of  all  deli- 
cacy. He  felt  our  going  as  a  boy  would  feel  tlie 
breaking  up  of  a  happy  home,  whether  it  was  in  Da- 
mascus or  under  canvas.  He  visited  us  in  Trieste, 
en  route  for  England,  in  the  summer  of  1873.  We 
thouglit  liis  health  much  gone  off,  nnd  we  begged  of 
him  to  come  and  stay  with  us  whenever  he  wanted 
change  and  his  family  could  spare  liim.  In  March 
1874  he  sent  us  a  sketch  of  his  camp  in  the  Jordan 
valley,  where  we  had  formerly  encamped  together. 
Some  weeks  of  rain  and  mud  brought  on  the  dreadful 
Jericho  fever,  from  wliich  we  all  hoped  and  believed 
he  had  recovered,  and  we  wrote  and  renewed  our 
invitation.  He  replied  tluit  Lieutenant  Condcr  was 
<r()iii(f  to  Enf!;land,  and  tluit  lie  could  not  leave  the  post 


MEMOIR.  47 

he  was  in  charge  of — the  post  date  was  Jenisnlem,  M:iy 
8,  1874.     On  May  14,  1874,  my  husband  was  struck 
down  by  a  sudden  pain,  which  a  few  liours  determined 
to  be  of  a  serious  character.     lie  was  seventy-eiglit 
days  and  nights  in  bed,  and  had  two  painful  operations 
performed  ;  the  last,  under  chloroform,  was  on  June 
23.     That  very  morning  our  poor  friend  breathed  liis 
last  in  Jerusalem,  in  spite  of  every  care  on  the  part  of 
Dr.  Chaplin,  the  excellent  physician,  who  had  devoted 
himself  to  his  case.    A  few  days  later,  when  the  letters 
arrived,  seeing  "  Palestine  Exploration  Fund  "  on  the 
seal,   I   thought   that   perhaps   our   kind    friend,  Mr. 
Walter  Besant,  had  announced  the  discovery  of  some 
new  stone   or   inscription   that  would   annise  my  hus- 
band.     I   handed    him    the   letter,    not    tliinking    of 
"  Charlie,"  as  we  called  him,  and  supposing  him  to  be 
recovered  and  well.     By  that  time  we  had  ]ioj)ed  he 
had  gone  to  Bludan,  our  old  summer  quarter,  for  a 
holiday.     My  husband   dropped   the   letter,   and    fell 
back  quite  pale — his  wound  had  burst  out  afresli.     T 
picked  up  the  letter  and  saw  the  sad  truth.     Cai)tain 
Burton  was  much  retarded  by  this  blow.     With  all  my 
care  to  give  him  only  pleasant  news,  I  had  Jianded  him 
the  worst  letter  I   could  possibly  have  done.     It  ap- 
peared that  fever  had  re-attacked  our  poor  friend,  as 
it  does  sometimes,  when  he  was  jiacking  up  en  route  to 
the  Anti-Libanus,  where,  could  he  have  reached  it,  lie 


48  MEMOIR. 

'would  have  got  well,  for  it  always  agreed  with  him. 
But  God  in  his  mercy  knew  what  was  best  for  him, 
and  during  the  seven  hours  that  he  knew  that  deatli 
was  at  hand  he  continually  said,  "  Tell  my  mother 
that  I  die  in  the  love  of  Jesus."  He  was  ill  forty  days, 
and  during  that  time,  when  the  delirium  of  fever  was 
upon  him,  he  constantly  cried  out  in  Arabic  to  Ilabib, 
the  youth  whom  my  husband  made  over  to  him  when 
he  left,  "  Habib,  pitch  our  tents  on  Mount  Sion.  Here 
is  such  a  beautiful  place,"  It  was  the  spot  where  he 
was  afterwards  buried.  A  mother  has  lost  the  flower 
of  her  flock,  and  is  bowed  down  with  sorrow;  we,  and 
many  others,  have  lost  a  friend  whom  we  can  never 
replace  ;  the  Palestine  Exploration  has  lost  its  corner- 
stone, and  England  has  lost  one  of  those  youths  of 
promise,  every  one  of  whom  contributes  to  build  lier 
fair  fame  and  to  guard  her  honour.     K.I.P.' 

And  I  cannot  refi'ain  from  adding  the  accompany- 
ing note  given  to  me  by  my  friend  Mr.  H.  W.  Harper, 
the  artist  : — 

'My  knowledge  of  Drake  commenced  in  1872, 
when  from  Egypt  I  went  to  Jerusalem,  and  found  that 
Mr.  Neil,  the  English  clergyman,  was  an  old  friend  of 
mine,  and  he  introduced  me  to  Drake.  He  had  great 
love  for  art,  and  we  became  very  intimate,  and  were  so 
all  the  time  I  was  in  Jerusalem,  always  dining  together, 
and  often  spending  days  together.     After  dinner,  until 


MEMOIR.  4Q 

quite  late,  Ave  used  to  sit  either  in  his  or  my  bedroom 
and  discuss  the  Holy  Land.  His  was  a  nature  such 
as  one  rarely  meets  with.  Thougli  reticent,  he  hat! 
the  power  of  attracting  you  to  him.  One  incident 
is  recalled  to  my  mind.      One  day,  when  at  tiible- 

d'hote  dinner  in  the  hotel,  we  sitting  together as  we 

always  did — and  as  usual  talking  earnestly  of  our 
work,  I  of  my  drawings,  he  of  his  plans,  an  old 
French  gentleman  sat  opposite,  and  was  evidently  lis- 
tening to  us.  After  some  time  he  said,  "  I  know  Eng- 
lish, and  am  so  much  interested  in  your  conversation, 
as  I  love  the  Holy  Land."  When  we  rose  to  depart, 
he  came  up  to  Drake  and  asked  to  shake  hands  with 
him,  and  said,  "  You  are  an  honour  to  your  country." 
The  tears  flowed  from  his  eyes  as  he  continued : — 
"  When'  I  think  of  the  young  men  of  my  country,  and 
what  their  conversations  are,  my  heart  is  broken  ;  but 
you  noble  English  gentlemen  seem  each  so  earnest,  so 
full  of  high  aims  and  hard  manly  work,  thnt  T  thanked 
God  to  see  it.  God  bless  you  both  !  "  he  said  in  a  most 
impressive  way.  I  well  remember  the  modest  manner 
of  Drake.  He  was  much  touched  by  it,  and  spoke  to  me 
about  it,  and  said  such  things  cheered  him.  He  seemed 
to  have  a  foreboding  that  his  would  not  be  a  long  Hfe, 
and  he  therefore  was  always  at  work;  and  he  said, 
too,  he  knew  the  country  would  kill  liim  if  he  stayed 
there  much  longer,  and  so  he  wanted  to  get  lii^  work 

E 


60  MEMOIR. 

done.  We  used  to  go  to  Shapira  together  and  draw 
the  so-called  Moabitic  pottery,  and  to  the  excavations 
of  the  Knights  of  St.  John.  Again,  he  would  tell  me 
of  the  wonders  of  the  Haram,  and  we  planned  to  go 
there  together,  I  to  paint  and  he  to  explore.  I  parted 
from  him  about  3.30  in  the  evening — I  mean  the 
morning — I  left.  Some  things  I  know  of  him  too 
sacred  to  speak  of  He  left  an  impression  on  me 
which  will  never  be  effaced — a  grand,  noble  English 
gentleman.' 


Note. — In  the  following  pages  the  Arabic  words  have  been  left 
according  to  Drake's  own  method  of  spelling,  which  was  not  that 
adopted  by  the  Committee  of  the  Palestine  Fund.  The  differences 
are  not  great,  however. 


MODERN  JERUSALEM. 


MODERN  JERUSALEM  :  ITS  POPULATION,  RELIGIOUS  SECTS,  AND  SOCIAL 
COMMUNITIES  :  ITS  SCHOOLS,  CHARITABLE  INSTITUTIONS,  AND  TRADE. 
THE  CHURCH  OF  THE  HOLY  SEPULCHRE  :  ITS  TRADITIONS,  CERE- 
MONIES, AND   WORSHIPPERS.      THE    SPECTACLE   OP  THE    HOLY   EIRE. 

The  population  of  Jerusalem,  as  of  all  cilit's  in  the 
East,  where  a  census  is  unknown,  must  always  be 
more  or  less  a  matter  of  conjecture.  Even  the  li>t 
of  men  liable  to  military  service  is  not  a  trustworlliy 
source  of  information,  as  the  number  stated  is  always 
too  small,  some  men  finding  it  wortli  their  while  t<> 
give  the  returning  officer  a  douceur  to  omit  their 
names  from  his  books.  Dr.  Eobinson,  in  his  '  Biblic^il 
Eesearches '  (vol.  ii.  }).  85,  ed.  1841),  makes  the  total 
population  11,500 ;  but  in  a  note  he  states  that  the 
resident  American  missionaries,  from  whom  his  in- 
formation was  derived,  were  afterwards  inclined  to 
make  it  mount  to  nearly  17,000.  At  present  the 
population  seems  to  be  divided  thus : — Christians 
5,300,  Moslems  5,000,  Jews— Sephardim  4,G00.  Ash- 

E  2 


52  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

kenazira  0,000  =  20,900.  According  to  tlie  authority 
of  the  Franciscan  Pere  Lievin,  the  number  of  inha- 
bitants is  thus  distributed  : — Jews  8,000,  Moslems 
7,505,  Latins  1,500  ;  Greeks— Orthodox  2,800,  Ca- 
tholic 30  ;  Armenians — Orthodox  510,  Catholic  10  ; 
Copts  130,  Protestants  300,  Abyssinians  75,  Syrians 
12—5,373;  20,938. 

In  this  list  the  number  of  Moslems  seems  rated 
too  high,  but  probably  that  of  the  Christians  is  very 
correct,  while  the  Jews  are  placed  at  much  too  low  a 
figure.  The  number  of  Christians  is  much  increased 
at  Easter  by  the  influx  of  pilgrims,  who  sometimes 
amount  to  5,000.  The  Moslems  are  at  the  same  time 
reinforced  by  their  pilgrims  to  the  so-called  tomb  of 
Moses,  near  the  north-west  corner  of  the  Dead  Sea. 
This  pilgrimage  seems  to  have  been  instituted  Avith 
the  political  object  of  counterbalancing  the  annual 
flood  of  Christian  pilgrims  by  an  equally  large  one  of 
Mohammedans.  The  number  of  Eussian  devotees  has 
very  largely  increased  within  the  last  few  years,  and 
tliere  is  usually  a  floating  population  of  from  100  to 
200  in  the  Hospice. 

The  confusion  of  tongues  at  Jerusalem  is  suffi- 
ciently striking,  but  the  distinctions  of  race  and  creed 
are  even  more  remarkable.  The  hostility  shown  by 
the  Christian  sects  towards  one  another  is  much  more 
bitter  tlian  that  felt  aiiainst  the  Moslems.     At   Jeru- 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  M 

salem  these  latter  are  very  toleraut  of  Chnstians,  having 
learnt  their  commercial  value,  and  seeing  the  material 
benefits  that  accrue  from  them.  The  fanaticism  of  the 
Moslem  against  the  Nazareue  in  other  towns  ami  vil- 
lages, where  the  population  is  mixed,  is  strong  in 
proportion  to  the  power  of  the  Christians,  and  is  often 
fostered  by  the  interference  of  clerical  or  consular 
authority.  Jealousy  then  stirs  up  the  Mohammedans, 
representatives  of  the  national  religion,  who  have  no 
one  to  protect  them  against  the  acts  of  their  own  Go- 
vernment, or  in  any  way  to  encourage  them,  and 
hatred  against  tlieu^  more  fortunate  fellow-subjects  is 
engendered,  which  sooner  or  later  ends  in  bloodsiied 
and  violence.  The  Jews  are  treated  even  more  tole- 
rantly than  the  Christians,  as  they  always  humble 
themselves  before  the  followers  of  the  rro[)het,  and 
never  act  with  ihe  arrogance  and  overbearing  pride  so 
characteristic  of  the  Syrian  Christian  when  he  feels 
himself  stit^ng  and  secure. 

The  number  of  Jews  is  increasing  at  Jerusalem  at 
the  rate  of  at  least  from  1,200  to  1,500  per  aninini. 
The  Jewish  quarter  is  consequently  too  small  for  them, 
and  they  are  not  only  spread  all  over  the  town,  but 
are  building  large  numbers  of  houses  outside  the  walls. 
Where  four  years  ago  there  were  not  more  than  twenty 
houses  there  are  now  over  130  finished,  and  others 
bmldiug.     The  Moslem  quarter,  Bab   Ilatta,  and  the 


54  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

part  near  tlie  Bab  el  'Amiid,  are  now  inliabited  by 
many  Jews,  though  only  four  or  five  years  ago  not 
one  was  to  be  found  there.  Some  of  these  Jews  even 
share  houses  with  Mohammedans.  If  the  rate  of  immi- 
gration continues  to  be  as  large  as  it  has  been  during 
the  last  two  years,  Jerusalem  will  soon  be  almost 
wholly  in  the  hands  of  the  Jews,  both  commercially 
and  territorially,  for  even  now  they  have  the  greater 
part  of  the  trade,  and  are  buying  up  land  wherever 
they  can  find  it  for  sale. 

The  different  races  and  creeds  at  Jerusalem  may  , 
be  subdivided  as  follows  : — (1)  *Abyssinians  ; — (2)  Ar- 
menians :  (a)  *Orthodox,  (h)  Cathohc; — (3)  *Copts  ; — 
(4)  Greeks  :  (a)  Orthodox,  {b)  Catholic ; — (5)  Jews  : 
{a)  Ashkenazim,  {h)  Sephardim,  (c)  Karaite  ; — (6) 
Latin  or  Eoman  Catholics  ; — (7)  Maronites  ; — (8)  Mos- 
lems :  (i.)  Sunni — {a)  Shafii,  (h)  Ilenefi,  (r)  Ilambeh, 
{d)  Maleki :  (ii.)  5AmV— Metawili,  &c.  ;— (9)  Trotcs- 
tants :  {a)  Church  of  England,  (h)  Lutheran  ; — (10) 
Syrians  :  (a)  *Jacobite,  {h)  Catholic.^ 

1.  The  Abyssinians  have  a  small  monastery,  if  the 
fever-stricken  dens  in  which  they  live  over  the  Chapel 
of  Helena,  east  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  can  be  so  called. 

*  Tbooe  marked  witli  an  asterisk  (*)  are  Monophvpites,  or,  as  they 
are  sometimes  called,  Eutychians  or  Anti-Ohalcedonians,  from  tlie  fact  of 
their  luildin^'  to  the  heresy  of  luityches,  who  opposed  the  doctrine  pro- 
mulgated at  the  Council  of  Clialcedon  (a.d.  451),  that  the  nature  of  Jesus 
Christ  was  both  human  and  divine. 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  66 

They  formerly  possessed  a  considerable  extent  of  build- 
ing here,  but  the  Copts,  by  a  few  backshises  to  local 
authorities,  have  been  able  to  dispossess  them  of  nearly 
all.  Their  land  was  sold  to  tlie  Aruienians  fjr  a  per- 
petual dole  of  soup.  Here  a  few  monks  and  nuns  live, 
always  ready  to  give  such  shelter  as  they  are  able  to 
their  fellow-countrymen  who  come  as  pilgrims.  Many 
of  the  Abyssinians  are  employed  as  domestic  servants, 
and  if  their  love  of  dress  and  fmery,  which  equals  that 
of  the  true  Negro,  do  not  ruin  them,  often  turn  out 
handy  and  trustworthy. 

2.  The  Armenians  are  called  by  themselves  Ortlio- 
dox,  and  by  those  who  disagree  with  them  Schismatic, 
as  is  the  case  with  the  Orthodox  or  Chalcedonian 
Greeks.  They  have  married  clergy  as  well  as  monks. 
A  bishop  or  an  archbishop  must  liave  been  married,  or 
he  is  not  eligible  for  the  office.  This  sect  lias  the 
largest  monastery  and  hospice  in  Jerusalem.  The  latter 
is  capable  of  receiving  more  than  L^OOO  pilgrims;  a 
printing  press  is  attached  to  the  establishment,  and 
turns  out  books  in  French  and  Armenian  iu  veiy  fair 
style.  One  of  the  monks  takes  photographs,  an  accom- 
plishment in  which  the  patriarch  himself  is  not  un- 
skilled. There  is  a  seminary,  too,  where  a  liberal 
education  is  given  to  young  men  entermg  the  church. 
The  community  of  native  Armenians  numbers  about 
150  souls.     Among   these   are  skilful  workmen  who 


66  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

follow  the  trades  of  masons,  painters,  carpenters,  &c. 
This  monastery  formerly  belonged  to  the  Georgians, 
who  founded  it  in  the  eleventh  century,  but  in  the 
fifteenth  century  they  became  too  poor  to  maintain  it, 
and  sold  it  to  the  Armenians,  retaining  the  power  of 
buying  it  back  again  when  they  had  the  means.  This 
has  given  the  Greek  Chiu"ch,  which  is  rich  and  ambi- 
tious, what  they  consider  to  be  a  claim  on  the  building. 
The  Armenians,  however,  being  almost  their  equals  in 
wealth,  and  their  superiors  in  intellect  and  education, 
will  not  easily  be  deprived  of  their  property. 

The  Cluirch  of  St.  James  contains  his  chair,  and  the 
sepulchre  of  his  head.  The  building  is  large  and  gor- 
geously decorated;  most  of  the  pictiu:es  are  more 
curious  than  beautiful,  but  some  of  the  inlaid  work  on 
the  doors  and  panels  is  very  handsome.  The  robes 
and  vestments  worn  by  the  clergy  on  high  festivals  are 
most  magnificent;  many  of  them  are  curiously  em- 
broidered, others  are  stiff  with  gold  brocade,  Avhile 
most  of  the  iieadgear  is  thickly  crusted  Avith  pearls, 
and  in  some  cases  with  precious  stones. 

The  Latins  are  permitted  to  say  mass  in  this  church 
on  two  or  three  occasions  yearly.  The  Melchite, 
United,  or  Catholic  Armenians,  who  acknowledge  the 
supremacy  of  tlic  Pope,  are  few  in  number  at  Jeru- 
salem, and  liave  only  a  small  convent  near  the  Austrian 
Hospice  peculiar  to  themselves. 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  67 

3.  The  Copts  are  under  a  bishop,  and  have  two 
monasteries  :  one  before  mentioned,  as  being  in  great 
part  filched  from  the  Abyssinians,  at  tlie  east  end  of 
the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepidchre,  and  the  otlicr  to  tlie 
north-west  of  the  Pool  of  Ilezekiah,  rebuilt  about 
thirty-five  years  ago.  They  possess  a  small  oratory  or 
chapel,  just  large  enough  to  hold  an  altar,  tacked  on 
to  the  west  end  of  tlie  Holy  Sepulchre  itself.  These 
convents,  with  a  certain  number  of  mendicant  fomihes 
attached  to  and  dependent  on  them,  are  maintained  by 
alms  from  Egypt,  where  their  co-religionists  are  usually 
wealthy,  having  the  monopoly  of  Government  clerk- 
ships, tax-collectorships,  and  finance  agencies,  jis  well 
as  the  trade  of  jewellers,  silversmiths,  and  goldsmiths. 

4.  The  Greeks  styled  Orthodox  are  the  most 
powerful  body  in  Jerusalem,  both  on  account  of  their 
wealth  and  their  numbers.  The  monks  are  chiefly 
Greeks,  Eoumanians,  Servians,  Bulgarians,  and  Walla- 
chians.  The  Greek-speaking  population  are  chiefly 
keepers  of  drinking-bars,  eating-houses,  and  a  few 
stores.  The  native  part  of  the  sect,  wliidi  is  by  far 
tlie  most  numerous,  is  only  called  Greek  from  its  ad- 
herence to  the  doctrines  of  the  Greek  Churcli.  Its 
priests  in  the  country  villages  are  simply  fellahin,  and 
the  services  are  conducted  in  Arabic.  The  monks  and 
upper  clergy  are  generally  Greeks,  and  seldom  are 
able  to   speak   intelligible   Arabic.      The   clergy   are 


68  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

allowed  to  marry  before  their  consecration  as  priests, 
but  in  case  of  their  wife's  death  they  cannot  marry 
again.  These  men  cannot  either  aspire  to  the  rank  of 
archimandrite,  bishop,  or  patriarch.  Tlie  sacrament 
of  Holy  Communion-  is  administered  in  the  two  forms 
of  bread  and  wine.  The  convents  belonging  to  this 
sect  in  Jerusalem  are :  (1)  that  of  Constantine  near 
the  Holy  Sepulchre  ;  (2)  of  Demetrius ;  (3)  Georgios ; 
(4)  Nicolas ;  (5)  Johannes;  (6)  Michael;  (7)  Georgios 
(in  the  Jewish  quarter),  which  are  inhabited  by  monks. 
Those  for  nuns  are  of  Theodorus,  two  dedicated  to 
He-Panagia  of  Basil,  of  Kathcrine  and  of  Euthyonius. 
Outside  of  Jerusalem  are  the  (1)  Dayr  el  Musallabeh 
(Convent  of  the  Cross),  which  formerly  belonged  to 
the  Georgians;  (2)  Mar  Elias  ;  (3)  Bethlehem;  (4) 
Mar  Saba ;  (5)  Dayr  el  Khadhr  (of  St.  George),  near 
the  Pools  of  Solomon.  The  schools  are :  (1)  that  at 
the  Convent  of  tlie  Cross,  wliere  there  are  fifty  boys 
and  six  teachers ;  (2)  in  Jerusalem — sixty  boys  and 
three  teachers ;  (3)  school  for  girls,  thirty  pupils  and 
one  mistress.  There  is  also  a  hospital,  where  medi- 
cines are  given  away  gratis. 

In  tlie  Russian  Hospice  there  is  an  arcliimandrite, 
wlio  receives  3,500  roubles  per  annum  from  the  Rus- 
sian Government;  two  priests,  receiving  each  1,500 
roubles;  and  one  deacon,  with  a  saLuy  of  1,300  rou- 
bles.    This   establishment   is   appointed  by  the  Holy 


MODERN  JERUSALEM. 


W.) 


Synod  of  Eussia,  -with  the  consent  of  the  Greek  Tu- 
triarch  of  Jerusalem. 

The  higher  clergy  consists  of  the  Patriarcli,  of  tlie 
Bishops  of  (1)  Lydd,  (2)  Nazareth,  (3)  Akka,  (4)  Kerak, 
(5)  Ghazzeh  (Gaza),  (6)  Nablus,  (7)  El  Salt,  (8)  Sebds- 
tieh,  (9)  Tabor,  and  (10)  Bethlehem.  These  digni- 
taries, together  with  two  archimandrites,  the  first  secre- 
tary of  the  convent,  the  superior  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre, 
and  the  first  dragoman  of  the  convent,  form  the  council. 
By  this  body  the  Patriarchate  and  Bishoprics  are  filled 
up  when  vacant.  The  nominal  consent  of  the  diocese 
is  also  asked  in  the  case  of  bishops.  The  bishops  1,  5, 
6,  7,  and  8  live  at  Jerusalem.  The  see  of  Akka  has 
lately  been  added  to  that  of  Nazareth. 

The  late  Patriarch  Cyrillos  was  deposed  in  tlie  end 
of  1872  by  the  Greek  clergy  for  his  supposed  Russian 
proclivities  in  refusing  to  sign  the  decree  against  tlic 
recalcitrant  Bulgarians.  This  act  of  the  clergy  in- 
furiated the  native  members  of  the  sect,  wlio  would 
have  proceeded  to  extreme  violence  had  not  tlic 
Turkish  Government  interfered  and  restored  order, 
by  momentarily  excluding  the  fellahi  from  the  city 
and  establishing  strong  patrols. 

5.  The  Jews.  Ashkenazim:  so  called  from  Ash- 
kenaz,  son  of  Gomer  (Gen.  x.  3),  who  seems  to  have 
settled  towards  Armenia  and  Eussia  (Jer.  li.  27).  This 
division,  which  comprises  the  German,  Pohsh,  and  part 


I 


60  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

of  the  Eussian  Jews,  speak  generally  a  kind  of  bastard 
German  mixed  up  with  Hebrew  and  other  foreign 
words.  Their  dress  is  a  long  robe  like  a  dressing- 
gown,  and  on  their  heads  they  wear  low-crowned 
felt  and  beaver  hats ;  a  lank  love-lock  hanging  down 
either  cheek,  and  the  eccentrically  clipped  fur  cap 
which  they  wear  on  feast  days,  do  not  render  their 
personal  appearance  prepossessing ;  in  fact  they  more 
resemble  rag  dolls  or  scarecrows  tlian  living  human 
beings. 

Many  of  these  Jews  are  petty  traders  and  crafts- 
men. They  are  mainly  supported  by  the  hallukah  or 
alms  which  is  collected  in  Eiu-ope  by  appointed  emis- 
saries. Many  Jews,  who  have  neither  time  nor  in- 
clination to  come  to  Jerusalem  themselves,  will  pay 
considerable  sums  for  prayers  to  be  offered  in  their 
behalf  by  their  co-religionists  living  in  the  Holy  City. 
This  distribution  of  alms,  which  is  shared  by  all  alike, 
brings  many  idle  and  worthless  persons  to  partake  of 
it ;  early  and  improvident  marriages  are  fostered,  every 
child  being  a  source  of  income  through  his  share  in 
the  hallukah.  Much  misery  and  vice  are  engendered 
by  this  indiscriminate  bounty,  which  is  considerably 
sifted  by  passing  through  the  hands  of  the  rabbis,  who 
are  responsible  to  no  one  for  the  money  they  receive. 
These  rabbis  live  at  their  ease,  for  the  system  of  ter- 
rorism, both  spiritual   and   physical,  which  they  exert 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  61 

over  their  congregations  renders  theni  unassailable. 
The  almshouses  built  under  the  trusteeship  of  Sir  Moses 
Montefiore  are  lived  in  by  the  friends  of  rabbis  and 
those  who  pay  court  to  tlieni,  not  by  the  destitute  for 
whom  they  were  intended.  On  tlie  occasion  of  a  vi>it 
paid  by  that  venerable  philanthropist  to  Jerusalem,  a 
collection  of  the  poorest  and  most  miserable  of  the 
community  was  installed  in  them,  and  upon  his  de- 
parture as  summarily  ejected.  Knowing  that  their 
rabbis  can  excommunicate  and — what  is  even  more  to 
the  purpose — starve  them,  not  a  few  dare  object  to  all 
this  system  of  hypocrisy,  peculation,  vice,  and  misery.* 
Many  of  these  Jews  have  a  British  protection 
granted  them,  as,  if  they  are  Kussian  subjects,  and 
neglect  to  revisit  that  country  biennially  to  renew  their 
passports,  their  government  discards  them.  The  result 
of  an  English  passport  cannot  be  regarded  as  satis- 
factory in  most  cases.  Belying  on  being  foreign  pro- 
teges, they  often  lend  themselves  to  usury  and  other 
transactions  of  a  doubtful  or  even  openly  dishonour- 
able character.  A  determination  to  protect  the  whole 
community  from  rehgious  persecution,  allowing  the 
Sultan  to  treat  their  commercial  affairs  on  the  same 
footincT  as  those  of  the  rest  of  his  subjects,  would  be 
much  more  just  and  sensible. 

*  I  must  here  remark  that  I  have  received  all  the  atovo  account  from 
the  mouths  of  Jews. 


62  MODEliX  JERT'SALEM. 

The  Ashkenazim  in  tliis  city  are  divided  into 
religious  sects  and  social  communities.  The  sects  are 
the  Parushim,  Varshi,  Chasidim,  and  Chabad.  The 
Parushim,  or  Pharisees,  have  their  liturgy  according 
to  the  Talmud,  but  do  not  believe  in  the  sense  attached 
to  the  various  rites  by  cabalistic  teachers  ;  neither  do 
they  believe  in  the  so-called  gute  yeden.  They  consider 
the  diligent  study  of  the  Talmud  an  essential  for  every 
religious  Jew.  They  strictly  observe  the  appointed 
times  for  prayer,  but  do  not  consider  it  necessary  to 
dip  the  body  in  water  before  praying.  They  do  not 
make  use  of  the  second  pair  of  phylacteries  prescribed 
by  Eabano  Tarn.  They  do  not  hold  it  unlawful  to 
slaughter  animals  for  food  with  a  knife  which  is  not 
very  sharp,  provided  the  same  has  no  notch  ui  its  edge. 
They  regard  a  Passover  cake  as  lawful,  even  though  it 
be  made  of  any  kind  of  Avheat  or  flour.  Most  of 
their  laws  are  decided  by  the  commentary  of  the  late 
Gaiin  of  Wilna. 

The  Chasidim  are  very  fanatic  and  for  the  most 
part  unlearned.  Their  liturgy  is  according  to  Mai- 
monides  (Rabbi  Musa  Ben  Maimon),  and  they  interpret 
it  in  the  cabalistic  sense.  They  pray  whenever  they 
feel  moved  to  do  so,  no  matter  whether  the  prescribed 
time  for  prayer  has  passed  or  not.  They  believe  in 
certain  Sadikim^  or  righteous  men,  called  gute  yeden 
(good  Jews),  and  regard  them  with  superstitious  venera- 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  63 

tion,  almost  indeed  worshipping  tlicm,  attributiiifr  to 
them  supernatural  powers,  and  attaching  to  their  most 
trivial  and  insignificant  actions  some  spiritual  and 
symbolic  meaning.  Whilst  professing  to  keep  strictly 
to  the  Talmud,  they  are  in  reality  guided  entirely  by 
the  teaching  of  the  particular  guter  yed  whom  tliey 
follow.  The  Chasidim  are  particular  in  the  observance 
of  Jewish  customs,  especially  such  as  relate  to  the 
Sabbath.  They  shake  themselves  violently  during 
prayers  and  cry  aloud.  At  other  times  they  are  mucli 
addicted  to  dancing,  singing,  and  deep  drinking. 

They  dip  themselves  in  water  before  prayers,  and 
make  use  of  the  second  pair  of  phylacteries.  They 
deem  it  unlawful  to  slaughter  animals  with  a  knife 
which  is  not  very  sharp,  or  to  use  any  but  a  particular 
kind  of  wheat  for  the  Passover  cakes.  ^luch  import- 
ance is  attached  by  this  sect  to  works  of  charity. 

The  Chabad  have  the  liturgy  as  arranged  by  their 
old  Eabbi  Zalmiu,  wlio  lived  at  Libbawitz  in  Russia. 
They  resemble  the  Chasidim,  but  are  usually  more 
learned  and  pious,  and  have  their  own  g'tite  yedeii. 
They  are  given  to  hospitality  and  chanty,  and  attach 
much  importance  to  visiting  the  sick.  They  dip  them- 
selves before  prayers,  read  and  study  much,  and  meet 
together  on  Sabbath  evenings  to  hear  tlie  law  ex- 
pounded by  their  principal  rabbi.  They  keep  the  19th 
day  of  the  month  Chisleu  as  a  feast,  that  being  tlic 


64  MODJJJiX  JEliUSALEM. 

anniversary  of  the  liberation  from  prison  of  Eabbi 
Salmon,  founder  of  the  sect. 

The  Aslikenazim  are  divided  into  communities  ac- 
cording to  the  town  or  district  in  Europe  from  which 
they  came,  and  each  community  is  presided  over  by  a 
rabbi,  or  by  a  layman  of  good  standing  and  respect- 
ability. The  communities  of  Parushim  are  the  Wilna, 
Grainer,  Grodna,  Minsk  Nassin,  Warsaw,  ZouHk,  and 
German.  Those  of  the  Chasidim  are  the  Volhyna,  the 
Hungaro- Austrian,  and  the  Galitzian.  The  Chabad  are 
a  community  by  themselves. 

In  all  matters  which  come  before  the  Turkish 
tribunals  the  Ashkenazim  are  obliged  to  place  them- 
selves in  the  hands  of  the  Sephardite  Khakham-Bashi, 
who  is  the  only  representative  of  the  Jews  recognised 
by  the  government.  The  rabbis  hear  and  decide  all 
cases  which  relate  only  to  the  internal  affairs  of  the 
community. 

The  Chabad  take  their  name  from  the  initial  letters 
of  the  words  nvi  N^^  ^^,t:^^^,  which  express  their 
great  learning  and  intelhgence,  but  the  Parushim,  who 
hate  them  bitterly,  say  that  their  title  is  derived  from 
nyi  "hi  "l^t2^,  or  ass  without  understanding.  The 
Chasidim  means  tlie  'pious  folk,'  and  they  wear  the 
love-locks  much  longer  than  the  Parushim,  but  are 
outdone  in  the  extravagance  of  these  unseemly  ap- 
pendages l)y  thu  Varshi. 


MODEItX  JERVSALEM.  iir, 

The  Sephardim,  when  they  have  not  a  synagojjiic 
of  their  own  at  hand,  will  pray  with  the  Cha.sidini, 
Varshi,  or  Chabad,  but  never  with  the  Panishim.  Up 
to  the  time  of  Ibrahim  Pasha  the  Ashkenaz  Jews 
numbered  so  few  in  Jerusalem  that  they  often  hud  to 
invite  some  Sephardim  to  join  them,  in  order  to  make 
up  the  requisite  number  of  ten.  Their  oidy  synag()<,'ii(' 
is  now  the  lumber-room  attached  to  the  Sepliardi  syna- 
gogue called  Kiuiseh  Stambuliyeh. 

The  Jews  of  Jerusalem,  who  call  themselves  natives, 
and  say  that  their  ancestors  have  lived  there  since  the 
Captivity,  call  themselves  Morishcos;  the  word,  how- 
ever, would  seem  to  intimate  that  they  are  Maghrabr 
or  Moorish  Jews.  The  story  is  told  how  Constantinoj)le 
Jews  have  been  frightened  by  one  of  these  saying  to 
him,  'Mind  what  you  say  to  me,  I'm  a  Morishco.' 
The  murderers  of  the  prophet  Zachariah  are  called 
traditionally  Morishcos,  while  the  name  as  applietl  to 
Jerusalem  Jews  is  not  generally  known. 

The  number  of  the  Jews  is  obtained  from  the  mo.>*t 
reliable  sources,  namely,  from  those  on  whom  di-volvcs 
the  payment  of  the  alms. 

The  Sephardim  are  the  descendants  of  Jews  expelled 
from  Spain,  the  language  of  which  country  (hey  still 
retain  throughout  the  Levant  and  on  tlie  west  coast  of 
Africa;  in  the  interior  of  Morocco  and  a  few  other 
places  Arabic  has  become  their  language.     Their  dress 

F 


G6  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

is  Oriental,  and  tliey  still  wear  the  black  turban  or- 
dained by  the  sumptuary  laws  of  Hakem  (about  a.d. 
1000).  In  physical  appearance  they  are  far  superior 
to  the  Ashkenaz,  who  are  now  outnumbering  and 
gradually  ousting  them.  Officially  they  retain  their 
position :  the  Khakliam-bashi,  or  chief  rabbi,  is  the 
only  Jewish  official  recognised  by  the  Turks :  he  is 
also  represented  in  the  Mejlis,  or  Town  Council.  Many 
of  this  sect  are  shopkeepers,  trading  chiefly  in  European 
hardware,  cloths,  cottons,  &c. 

The  Maghrabi,  or  Western  Jews,  chiefly  from  North 
Africa,  though  really  belonging  to  the  Sephardim,  are 
in  Jerusalem  looked  upon  as  a  separate  sect,  and  have 
their  own  chief  rabbi. 

The  Karaite  are  Puritans,  rejecting  all  oral  and 
traditional  law,  and  holding  only  to  the  Scriptures 
themselves.  This  sect  is  found  in  large  numbers  in 
Eussia,  also  near  Baghdad  and  in  Arabia.  They  have 
but  one  synagogue,  in  a  small  cellar-like  chamber 
which  dates  back,  they  say,  for  several  centuries.  One 
old  MS.  of  the  Pentateuch  is  the  only  object  of  interest 
in  the  place  Till  lately  this  sect  only  comprised  seven 
families,  or  thirty-nine  individuals,  but  in  the  beginning 
of  1872  it  was  reinforced  by  some  forty  persons  from 
near  Baghdad,  who  have  since  returned  to  their  homes. 

6.  The  Latins.     The  Latins  have  for  several  cen- 
turies   been  under  tlie   immediate   protection   of  the 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  07 

French  Consulate  in  Jerusalem  ;  the  Consul  upjjcars 
officially  at  the  principal  religious  ceremonies,  such  as 
those  of  Easter,  Christmas,  &c.  The  Patriarchate  only 
dates  from  the  year  1847,  having  been  for  some  time 
in  abeyance. 

Monsignor  Valerga,  the  first  Patriarch,  du'd  in  the 
beginning  of  December,  1871,  and  is  succeeded  by 
Monsignor  Bracco,  who  resides  at  the  Convent  of  St. 
Sauvem-.  This  dignitary  is  the  spiritual  chief  of  all 
Palestine,  but  the  actual  direction  of  the  vari(Mis 
convents  is  in  the  hands  of  the  Pere  Kene,  Seraphin 
Milani  di  Carrara,  Guardian  of  the  Holy  Laud,  &c. 
The  higher  clergy  are  mostly  Jesuits,  while  the  monks 
are  Franciscans — generally  Spanish  or  Italian  by  birth. 
The  cures  in  villages  where  missions  have  been  esta- 
bhshed  are  Jesuits,  and  if  not  Frenchmen  are  usually 
conversant  with  that  language.  The  churches  in 
Jerusalem  belonging  to  the  Latins  are — the  parish 
church  of  St.  Sauveur,  the  Church  of  the  Flagellation, 
the  Grotto  of  the  Agony,  and  part  of  the  Church  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre.  The  Latin  institutions  within 
Jerusalem  are :  I.  The  Franciscan  Convent  of  St. 
Sauveur,  which  contains  about  100  monks.  Some  of 
these  are  always  on  duty  in  tiie  convent  attached  to 
the  Holy  Sepulchre.  A  theological  college  is  attached 
to  the  convent  for  members  of  the  community,  who 
are  also  instructed  in  various  trades.     II.  The  Patri- 

F  2 


68  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

archate,  which  is  the  residence  of  the  Patriarch,  one 
bishop,  and  six  priests.  III.  The  Convent  of  the 
Sisters  of  St.  Joseph,  which  contains  16  nuns.  IV. 
The  Convent  of  tlie  Sisters  of  Zion  (Dames  de  Sion) 
contains  21,  part  of  whom  live  at  'Ain  Karem.  V.  The 
hospice  called  La  Casa  Nova.  VI.  The  Austrian 
Hospice,  which  forms  the  residence  of  two  Austrian 
priests  and  a  consular  chaplain.  VII.  The  School  for 
boys;  and  VIII.  for  girls,  both  supported  by  the 
Franciscans.  In  the  former  there  are  two  teachers  and 
about  1 50  pupils.  This  school  is  free  for  all  nation- 
ahties.  The  latter  is  superintended  by  four  Sisters  of 
Zion,  who  act  as  teachers,  receiving  each  a  salary  of 
20/.  per  annum.     The  number  of  pupils  is  about  180. 

IX.  The  Girls'  School  belonging  to  the  Sisters  of  Zion, 
which    contains    100   boarders  and  six  day  scholars. 

X.  The  Patriarch's  Seminary  contains  some  25  students, 
who  live  at  Bayt  Jala  in  the  summer,  and  at  Jerusalem 
in  the  winter.  XI.  The  Hospital  supported  by  the 
Patriarch  and  attended  to  by  the  nuns.  A  lay  doctor 
is  here  employed.  XII.  A  small  private  hospital  for 
monks  in  the  Franciscan  convent.  XIII.  A  public 
dispensary  in  the  same  convent.  To  this  two  doctors 
are  attached,  one  layman  and  one  monk.  In  the  same 
establishment  is  a  jn'inting  press,  from  which  books 
arc;  turned  out  in  a  very  creditable  style. 

At    lictlilehem    tliere  is  a  convent  of  twenty-two 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  60 

Franciscan  monks,  and  a  liospicc  for  tlic  use  of  tra- 
vellers. A  small  convent  of  Sisters  of  St.  Josepli 
exists  here,  supported  by  tlie  Patriarch.  Tlie  schools 
are :  1.  For  boys,  in  the  Franciscan  convent,  and  con- 
taining some  150  pupils.  2.  For  girls  (about  140),  at 
the  expense  of  the  Patriarch.  3.  The  orphana«'c  of 
Don  Beloni,  in  which  about  twenty  inmates  are  taught 
various  industries.  There  is  also  a  dispensary  belong- 
ing to  the  Franciscans,  one  of  whom  is  a  doctor. 

At  Bayt  Jala  there  is  a  convent  connected  witli  the 
Seminary,  and  a  school  for  both  boys  and  girls.  All 
of  these  are  supported  by  the  Patriarch. 

At  'Ain  Karem  there  is  a  convent  of  twenty-four 
Franciscans.  To  this  is  attached  a  school,  now  con- 
taining seven  students,  for  those  who  intend  to  enter 
the  priesthood.  Also  one  for  boys  and  one  for  girls, 
in  each  of  wliich  there  are  about  twenty  pupils.  The 
Sisters  of  Zion  have  a  branch  school  here  also,  whither 
the  elder  girls  are  sent  to  finish  tlieir  education. 
Throughout  Palestine  there  are  schools  attached  to 
all  the  Latin  rehgious  houses. 

Missions  have  been  established  in  several  Christian 
villages,  such  as  Bayt  Salu'ir,  Eam  Allah,  Bir  Zayt, 
Teyyibeh,  and  Jifnah.  A  certain  portion  of  the  popu- 
lation— sometimes  amounting  to  one-third — readily 
professes  the  Latin  faith  in  such  cases,  being  unable, 
through  ignorance,  to  distinguish  any  real  diflereucu  in 


70  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

the  doctrines  from  those  of  the  Greek  Church  which 
they  leave,  and  being  impelled  by  worldly  motives  to 
place  themselves  under  the  protection  of  a  European 
power. 

7.  The  Maronites  belong  to  Mount  Libanus.  A 
few,  however,  may  generally  be  seen  in  Jerusalem  at 
Easter.  They  profess  obedience  to  the  Church  of 
Eorae,  which,  better  to  retain  a  hold  on  them,  has 
formally  allowed  the  marriage  of  the  clergy.  The  monks 
of  course  are  celibates.  Their  Patriarch  lives  in  the 
Libanus  at  Kanobin,  a  few  hours  distant  from  the  Cedars. 

8.  The  Moslems.  Most  of  the  officials  and  mihtary 
are  Turks,  Kurds,  and  other  foreigners ;  the  mass  of 
the  population  is  composed  of  natives  of  the  place. 
A  sprinkling  of  slaves,  free  negroes — who  act  as  guar- 
dians of  the  Haram,  and  are  also  employed  as  watch- 
men, porters,  &c.,  duties  which  they  fulfil  most  faith- 
fully— Persians,  Bokhariots,  Egyptians,  Indians,  and 
Maghrabis  or  Western  Africans,  may  always  be  found, 
especially  after  the  return  of  the  caravan  from  Mecca. 

The  chief  sects  of  Islam  are  the  Sumii,  or  ortho- 
dox, who  recognise  as  just  the  succession  of  Abu  Bekr, 
'Omar,  and  'Othman,  while  the  Shiai  look  upon  them 
as  interlo])ers,  who  for  many  years  withheld  from  'Ali 
the  Khalifate  to  which,  they  maintain,  he  had  been 
appointed  by  the  Prophet's  own  choice.  The  principal 
ISunni  divisions,  without  reckoning  the  Derwishes,  who 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  71 

number  twelve  regular,  and  several  later  and  Kisser 
orders,  are  :  (1)  Malaki,  (2)  Sliafi'i,  (3)  Ilaiieli,  (4) 
Hanbeli.  The  Sliiai  are  represented  in  Palestine  by 
the  MetawiH,  and  in  North  Syria  by  the  Nusayri ;  in 
Persia  there  are  but  few  Sunnis. 

9.  The  Protestants  are:  (1)  Church  of  England, 
(2)  Lutheran,  (3)  Native  congregation,  (4)  a  school 
lately  established  by  English  Quakers.  The  English 
church  was  built  by  the  '  London  Society  for  promot- 
ing Christianity  amongst  the  Jews.'  The  first  mission 
was  estabhshed  in  1824,  at  Jerusalem.  Li  1841  the 
Bishopric  of  the  Anglican  Church  was  set  on  foot  by 
mutual  agreement  of  the  English  and  Prussian  Govern- 
ments, to  whom  the  nomination  was  alternately  to  fall. 
The  right  of  veto  is  reserved  to  the  Archbishop  of 
Canterbury  with  respect  to  Prussian  nominees.  In  tlie 
same  year  a  converted  Jew,  Michael  Solomon  Alexan- 
der, was  consecrated  bishop.  He  died  four  years  later, 
and  was  succeeded  by  the  present  Bishop,  the  Eight 
Eeverend  Dr.  Gobat,  who  had  previously  been  for 
many  years  missionary  in  Abyssinia. 

There  is  an  orphanage  and  school  supported  by  the 
fund  collected  by  the  bishop,  and  under  his  direction. 
The  work  of  the  '  Church  ]\Iissionary  Society '  is  under 
the  direction  of  the  Eev.  F.  Klein.  A  bookshop  and 
small  seminary  are  in  connection  with  this  Society. 
The  institutions  supported  by  the  '  London  Society  for 


72  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

promoting  Christianity  amongst  the  Jews '  are  :  I.  Tlie 
House  of  Industry,  where  converts  are  taught  a  trade  to 
enable  them  to  earn  an  honest  Hving.  11.  The  Inquirers' 
Home,  where  a  lodging  is  provided  for  those  who  choose 
to  take  advantage  of  the  teaching  of  the  Mission.  HI.  A 
boys'  school  is  directed  by  the  Eev.  W.  Bailey.  IV.  The 
Jewesses'  Institution  consists  of  a  girls'  school  and  a 
workroom,  where  employment  in  sewing  is  given  to 
poor  women,  while  at  the  same  time  religious  instruc- 
tion is  communicated  to  them.  V.  A  bookshop  for  the 
sale  of  Bibles  and  other  books.  VI.  A  hospital  for 
poor  sick  Jews,  containing  twenty-five  beds,  under  the 
direction  of  T.  Chaplin,  Esq.,  M.D. 

The  German  Protestant  Institutions  are  :  I.  The 
chapel  lately  fitted  up  as  a  temporary  place  of  worship 
in  the  old  Hospital  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John,  recently 
presented  by  the  Sultan  to  the  Emperor  of  Germany. 
The  German  pastor  performs  a  Lutheran  service  once 
a  fortnight  in  the  English  church.  II.  The  Hospital 
of  the  German  Deaconesses,  into  which  patients  of 
any  nation  or  creed  are  admitted.  III.  A  free  board- 
ing school  for  native  girls  belonging  to  the  same  com- 
munity. IV.  The  Oqihanage  of  the  Crishchona 
brethren.     V.  The  Asylum  for  Lepers. 

The  Lutheran  priest  (now  Herr  Weser)  is  appointed 
by  the  Prussian  Government,  and  is  independent  of 
the  Bishop. 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  78 

Tlie  native  congregatiou  has  for  pastor  the  Kev.  F. 
Klein. 

10.  The  Syrians.  The  Bishop  and  two  or  tlnve 
monks  hve  in  the  '  House  or  Convent  of  St.  Mark,'  m-ar 
the  Armenian  convent.  Tliey  speak  Syriac,  which  i.s 
still  spoken  in  Syria  at  the  villages  of  M'aalulah, 
Bak-ha,  Jubb  el  'Adelin  (vulgo  Jubb'adin),  and  to  a 
certain  extent  at  'Ain  Tinyeh.  Farther  north  it  is 
spoken  at  'Aintab. 

The  S}Tian  Church  has  died  out  at  tlie  three  former 
places,  but  flourishes  at  Sadad.  There  is  a  convent, 
too,  at  Damascus,  where  there  are  also  a  few  Melchite, 
United,  or  Cathohc  Syrians,  papng  allegiance  to  the 
See  of  Eome,  but  except  by  visitors  this  sect  is  not 
represented  at  Jerusalem. 

Many  costumes  are  to  be  seen  in  the  streets  of 
Jerusalem  on  ordinary  occasions :  the  Bedawi  is  tlicrc 
with  his  striped  abba,  or  coarse  woollen  cloak,  which 
gives  him  a  square  look  about  the  shoulders,  which 
does  not  really  belong  to  his  spare  small  figure.  Under 
his  abba  he  wears  a  long  cotton  shirt  girt  in  at  the 
waist  by  a  leathern  belt,  in  which  are  generally  stuck 
a  pistol  or  two,  a  tobacco  pouch,  and  a  common  clasp 
knife  (without  a  spring)  hung  by  a  lanyard.  The 
fellah,  or  ordinary  peasant,  dresses  much  like  the 
Bedawi,  but  is  of  stouter,  broader  build;  his  beard 
and  moustache  are  heavier,  and  his  headdress,  instead 


74  MODERN  JEliUSALEM. 

of  the  kefiyeh,  or  liandkercliief  folded  into  a  triangle, 
and  hanging  over  the  back  and  shoulders  and  secured 
by  an  aggal  or  woollen  cord  bound  round  the  brows, 
consists  of  a  yellow  and  red  kefiyeh  worn  turban- 
wise  and  padded  inside  to  increase  its  bulk.  The 
townspeople  wear  the  coloured  kiimbaz  (gown)  of 
cotton  or  silk,  according  to  their  means,  and  au  outer 
juhheh  of  cloth,  sometimes  lined  with  fur,  and  either 
the  simple  tarhush  (red  cap)  or  with  the  white  tur- 
ban wound  round  it.  The  Christians  and  Sephardin 
Jews  wear  dark  turbans,  or  more  commonly  black 
handkerchiefs  rolled  round  the  tarbush. 

The  Bedawin  women  may  be  easily  known  by 
their  long  dark-blue  cotton  robe  and  black  kerchief 
tied  over  their  head.  The  fellahin  women  wear  a 
white  or  blue  chemise  coming  down  nearly  to  the 
ankle ;  on  their  heads  they  wear  a  kind  of  cloth  cap 
or  bonnet,  over  which  is  thrown  a  cotton  scarf.  Wlien 
they  can  afford  it  the  married  women  wear  a  kind  of 
sash  with  frinjred  ends  hanging  down  the  back  from 
the  head  and  reaching  to  below  the  waist. 

The  Christian  women  of  Bethlehem  and  the  neigh- 
bourhood wear  a  much  gayer  dress.  A  blue  skirt  with 
red  and  yellow  stripe  is  surmounted  by  a  tight  body 
cut  square  in  front  and  having  loose  sleeves  ;  the  basis 
of  all  i.s  blue  stuff,  but  it  is  ornamented  with  odd- 
shaped  pieces  of  yellow,  red,  and  green  cloth.    A  stiffly 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  76 

padded  saucepan- shaped  cap  is  worn  on  tlie  head,  and 
a  long  white  scarf  is  thrown  over  this  and  hangs  nearly 
to  the  ground.  Coins  either  of  gold  ov  .silver  arc  worn 
on  the  cap  and  as  necklaces.  The  tout  ensemble  of  this 
costume  is  very  picturesque. 

The  women  of  all  ranks  resident  in  the  town  wear 
a  white  cotton  izar  (wrapper)  which,  with  a  thin 
coloured  cotton  kerchief  over  the  face,  serves  to  con- 
ceal the  whole  dress  and  figure.  The  Jewish  women 
wear  the  same  izai%  but  leave  the  face  exposed.  Some 
of  the  Ashkenaz  women  still  retain  a  European  dress 
and  shawl. 

At  the  time  of  tlie  Easter  pilgrimage  may  be  seen 
Eussians  with  long  heavy  boots,  gi'eatcoats  down  to 
the  ankle,  and  fur  caps  ;  the  women  all  in  black,  and 
with  handkerchiefs  tied  tightly  over  their  heads.  Ar- 
menians of  both  sexes,  with  baggy  trousers  and  a 
mountain  of  shawl  round  the  waist,  the  men  with 
sheepskin  jackets  and  turbans,  the  women  with  shawN. 
The  high  rosy  cheeks  of  these  people  tell  of  a  bracing 
air  in  their  mountain  homes.  Greek  and  European 
Turks  strut  about  in  long  coats  lined  with  wolf-skin 
turned  over  in  a  broad  flap  on  the  shoulders.  ^Mixing 
with  these  may  be  seen  Latin  monks  ;  negi'ocs  from 
the  Siidan;  Greek  priests  with  brimless  chimney-pot 
hats ;  acolytes  with  flowing  and  frizzed-out  hah* ;  der- 
wishes  with  tall  sugarloaf  felt  caps ;  Kurdish  soldiers : 


76  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

a  half-naked  shaykh  or  holy  man  with  long  unkempt 
hair,  a  spear  in  one  hand  and  a  tin  pannikin  for  broken 
victuals  in  the  other ;  an  American  in  suit  of  severe 
black  from  head  to  foot ;  an  Indian  fakhir  ;  a  British 
tourist  with  patent  ventilating  hat,  tweed  suit,  and 
guide  book  ;  and  last,  but  not  least,  the  ubiquitous 
Jew.  Such  is  the  motley  crowd,  without  mentioning 
fellahin  Turks,  horses,  mules,  donkeys,  camels,  and 
dogs,  through  which  the  visitor  to  Jerusalem  has  to 
force  his  way. 

The  trade  of  Jerusalem,  considering  the  poverty 
and  barbarism  of  the  surrounding  tribes,  is  not  incon- 
siderable. The  following  table  is  drawn  from  the 
report  of  Mr.  Consul  Moore  for  1871 : — 


Imports  from  England : — 

Cotton     ...... 

£ 

.  10,000 

Woollens,  hardware,  colonials     . 

.     6,500 

Imports  from  Austria  and  Germany : — 

Woollens,  silks,  hardware,  glass,  timber 

.  26,000 

Imports  from  Franco  : — 

ColoniaLs,  woollens,  silks,  hardware,  wines  and  spirits 

.  18,000 

Imports  from  Russia : — 

Flour       ...... 

.     3,500 

Total 
,  ,.„>n    ^„    „;..„    K„    4.: 1^  £ T71 

.  72,000 
J.      1     i 

as  well  as  rice  by  coasting  vessels  from  Eg5^pt ;  but 
this  does  not  include  wine,  spirits,  and  preserved  fish 
from  Cyprus  and  (lie  Greek  islands  ;  nor  the  carpets, 
shawls,  and  simihu-  goods  brought  by  pilgrims,  both 
Christian  and  Moslem. 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  77 

The  exports  are  chiefly  ohve  oil,  grain,  and  .slmsini 
(sesame),  which  is  taken  to  Marseilles  and  transmuted 
into  olive  oil!  The  cotton,  which  is  short  in  tlu- 
staple  and  of  poor  quality,  goes  to  the  same  market. 
Soap,  too,  is  made  and  exported,  but  the  chief  trade  is 
in  rosaries,  crucifixes,  cameos,  &c.,  worked  in  mother- 
of-pearl,  olive-wood,  and  various  seeds,  wliich  arc  sold 
in  immense  quantities  to  the  pilgrims.  Tlu'  men  of 
Bethlehem  have  almost  a  monopoly  of  this  trade,  :ui<l 
have  grown  rich  upon  it ;  also,  if  report  be  true,  by 
coining  beshliks  (five-piastre  pieces).  It  is  commonly 
asserted  that  some  years  ago  the  Turkish  GovL-rimu'iit 
issued  one  million  of  these  pieces  which  are  c-()|)j)er, 
silvered,  and  when  new  of  the  intrinsic  value  of  1  .|, 
piastres.  Some  years  later  they  called  them  in  ;  a 
million  and  a  half  poured  into  the  Treasury,  whieh 
then  refused  to  receive  any  more.  Notwithstanding 
all  this,  they  are  at  the  present  day  one  of  the  com- 
monest coins  in  the  countr5\ 

The  modern  city  is  surrounded  by  a  wall,  all  ol" 
whose  gates  are  closed  at  sunset  with  the  exception  of 
the  Jafia  gate,  which  is  now  left  always  open.  The 
gates  till  last  year  were  also  closed  on  Fridnys  from 
noon  till  about  1.30  p.m.  This  is  owing  to  an  old 
tradition  which  prophesies  the  taking  of  the  city  by 
Christians,  while  the  Moslems  are  at  midd.iy  jirayers 
on    Friday.      The   same   custom    holds    in    Moorish 


78  MODERX  JERUSALEM. 

cities,  and  the  same  reason  is  assigned  for  its  obser- 
vance. 

Tlie  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. — This  site,  about 
which  controversy  has  run  so  high,  will  in  all  pro- 
bability never  be  settled  to  the  satisfaction  of  all.  The 
main  point  on  which  the  evidence  turns  is  wliether 
the  present  church  is  without  or  within  the  old  second 
wall.  The  upholders  of  the  latter  theory  base  most  of 
their  arguments  on  tlie  presumed  run  of  the  second 
wall,  and  if  this  could  be  proved,  then  the  supporters 
of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  could  no  longer  hold  their 
position.  As  it  is,  we  must  wait  till  further  discoveries 
are  made,  or  content  ourselves  with  theorising. 

The  chain  of  evidence  on  the  other  side  is  this  : — 
A  tomb  (the  one  called  that  of  Joseph  of  Arimathrea) 
which  from  its  construction  seems  incontestably  Jewish, 
is  found  only  a  few  feet  distant  from  the  so-called  Holy 
Sepulchre  itself.  The  pigeon-hole  loculi  are  purely 
Semitic,  are  very  rarely — one  only  instance  has  been 
found  at  Rome,  which,  however,  proved  to  be  Jewish — 
found  out  of  Palestine  proper,  Phoenicia,  and  its  colo- 
nies. The  manner  of  dressing  the  stone  is  the  same 
jis  that  seen  in  other  Jewish  tombs  near  Jerusalem.  It 
is  impossible,  after  careful  examination,  to  believe  that 
these  excavations  are  anything  but  genuine  Jewish 
tombs.  Secondly,  tradition,  from  a  very  early  period, 
points  to  this  as  the  site  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  over 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  7i» 

which  Hatlrian  built  a  temple  of  Venus.  This  is  told 
us  by  Eusebius,  Socrates,  Sozomen,  and  Jerome,  nlio 
also  inform  us  that  this  very  temple  was  the  means  by 
which  the  old  traditional  site  was  preserved  from  ob- 
livion. With  regard  to  another  point,  I  IV'el  tliat  I 
cannot  do  better  than  quote  from  M.  Eenaii  ('Vic  de 
Jesus,'  p.  416),  where  he  says,  '  It  would  be  curious  if 
those  who  in  the  time  of  Constantine  sought  to  fix  tlie 
topography  of  the  gospels  had  not  been  stopped  (in 
choosing  a  tomb  within  the  walls)  by  tlie  objection 
arising  from  St,  John  xix.  20,  and  Hebrews  xiii.  12. 
How,  when  free  in  their  choice,  should  they  have  ex- 
posed themselves  unconcernedly  to  such  a  serious  dif- 
ficulty? .  .  .  One  is  at  times  obliged  to  believe  that 
their  work  was  undertaken  in  a  somewhat  serious 
spirit.  ...  If  they  had  only  followed  a  mere  fancy 
they  would  have  placed  Golgotha  in  a  better  situation, 
on  the  top  of  one  of  the  mounds  near  Jerusalem,  to 
follow  up  the  Christian  idea  which  from  \(  ry  rarly 
times  sought  to  localise  the  deatli  of  Christ  on  a 
mountain.' 

Though  Titus  destroyed  the  walls  of  Jerusalem,  it 
is  hard  to  believe  that  all  traces  of  tlicm  liad  so  utterly 
disappeared  in  the  time  of  Constantine,  tliat  even  the 
line  they  followed  was  unknown.  If  it  were  still 
known,  those  on  whom  the  choice  of  a  site  devolved, 
even  if  unguided  by  tradition,  would  hardly  have  com- 


80  MODERN  JEHUS ALEM. 

mitted  siirli  a  palpable  blunder  as  to  place  the  tomb 
within  what  was  known  to  be  the  ancient  limits  of  the 
city.  Knowing  the  extreme  abhorrence  of  the  Jews  to 
anything  within  their  city  and  near  their  houses  which, 
like  a  tomb,  would  render  them  ceremonially  unclean, 
it  seems  probable  that  if  these  tombs  (now  called  after 
Joseph  of  Arimathasa)  were  made  previous  to  the 
building  of  the  second  wall,  they  would,  if  possible, 
liave  been  left  without  the  enceinte.  If,  on  the  con- 
trary, they  date  later  than  the  wall,  it  seems  most 
probable  that  they  were  made  without  the  city.  These 
facts,  though  perhaps  not  quite  conclusive,  show  us — 

1.  That  an  ancient  Jewish  tomb  exists  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  what  is  now  called  the  Holy  Sepulchre. 

2.  That  this  tomb  was  possibly,  if  not  probably,  with- 
out the  second  wall.  3.  That  a  very  early  tradition 
points  to  this  place  as  the  tomb  of  Christ.  (See  further 
De  Vogiic,  '  Le  Temple  de  Jerusalem,'  p.  115,  seq.) 

The  first  church  built  over  the  Holy  Sepulchre  was 
tliat  by  Constantine,  which  was  begiui  under  the  direc- 
tion of  Macarius,  Bishop  of  Jerusalem,  a.d.  326,  and 
finished  two  years  later.  Of  this  building  Eusebius 
(who  was  contemporary)  has  left  a  full  account  in  his 
life  of  Constantine,  Bk.  iii.,  ch.  xxxiv.  In  a.d.  G14, 
Jerusalem  was  pillaged  by  Chosroes  II.,  king  of  Persia, 
and  the  church  was  pulled  down.  The  Christians, 
Imwever,  began    to    rebuild    tlieir    sanctuaries  imme- 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  81 

diately  after  the  departure  of  the  Persian  hordes.  This 
they  were  enabled  to  do  probably  by  the  secret  assist- 
ance and  influence  of  the  wife  of  Chosroes,  a  Chiistiau, 
and  sister  to  Maurice,  Emperor  of  Constantinople. 

The  rebuilding  of  Constantine's  Basilica  was  under- 
taken by  a  monk  named  Modestus,  at  tliat  tinu;  cliirf 
of  the  convent  of  St.  Theodosius,  and  afterwards  Bishoj) 
of  Jerusalem.  He  was  unable  to  complete  a  work  on 
the  scale  of  that  constructed  by  Constantiue,  and  \va.s 
obliged  to  content  himself  with  erecting  a  church  or 
chapel  over  each  sacred  spot.  In  this  he  was  assisted 
by  John  Eleemon,  Patriarch  of  Alexandria,  and  com- 
pleted his  work  in  fifteen  years. 

After  the  Mohammedan  conquest  the  Christians 
received  permission  from  Omar  to  retain  their  churches 
and  freedom  of  worship.  The  liberal  feeling  of  the 
great  Khalif  Harun  el  Eashid  (end  of  eighth  century), 
and  his  friendship  for  Charlemagne,  procured  tnm- 
quiUity  for  the  Christians  during  his  reign.  The  pro- 
tection afforded  to  all  religious  establishments  of  the 
Latin  Church  in  Palestine  by  the  French  Government 
dates  from  this  period.  After  the  deatli  of  Ilnruu  el 
Eashid,  the  Christians  suffered  from  persecution,  li 
Ave  were  to  believe  the  old  chroniclers,  their  churches 
were  pillaged  and  ruined ;  but  these  woeful  tides 
must  be  accepted  in  a  qualified  sense,  as  we  find  the 
Patriarch  Thomas  requiring  only  fifteen  trunks  of  cedar 

G 


82  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

and  pine  from  Cyprus,  during  the  reign  of  El  Maimun, 
to  restore  the  dome  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. 

In  the  tenth  century  this  church  was  twice  set  on 
fire  by  the  Mohammedans.  The  Patriarch  John 
perished  in  the  second  conflagration.  By  orders  of 
Hakem  bi-amr  Illah,  the  mad  Khahf  of  Egypt  (a.d. 
996),  the  Church  of  the  Sepulchre  was  again  destroyed. 
The  influence  of  his  mother  Miriam,  who  was  sister  of 
the  Patriarchs  of  Alexandria  and  Jerusalem,  seems  to 
have  been  beneficially  exercised,  for  we  find  the 
Christians  reconstructing  their  churches  in  the  same 
year.  Large  numbers  of  pilgrims  then  flocked  to  the 
Holy  Land,  bringing  money  for  rebuilding  on  the 
sacred  site.  These  funds,  however,  proved  insufficient, 
and  only  a  partial  restoration  was  completed.  Some 
years  later  the  Emperors  Argyorius,  Michael  of  Paph- 
lagonia,  and  Constantine  Monomachus,  entered  into 
treaties  with  the  Moslem  power,  and  the  Churcli  of 
the  Sepulchre  was  rebuilt  by  Greek  architects  in  the 
year  1048.  One  hundred  and  fifty  years  later,  Jerusa- 
lem WU.S  taken  by  tlie  Crusaders,  and  one  of  the  first 
cares  of  Godfrey  was  to  appoint  twenty  canons  to  the 
Holy  Sepulchre,  making  them,  at  the  same  time,  con- 
Hiderablc  grants  for  their  maintenance.  A  few  years 
later,  and  all  the  holy  places  were  placed  beneath  one 
buildiuLS  as  in  tlu'  time  of  Constantine.  The  canons 
above    ineiitiomd   were    in    1244    superseded  by  the 


MODERS  JEliJ'SALEM.  %n 

relicijious  body  of  Fratres  Minores,  or  Francisrnns,  who 
have  ever  since  performed  the  rites  of  the  church  on 
this  spot.  In  1808  a  fire  broke  out  in  the  churcli, 
and  burnt  the  dome  over  tlie  Sepulclu'e  wliich  liad 
been  made  by  the  Franciscans  in  1555,  and  destroyod 
the  covering  of  the  Sepulchre  itself.  The  Greek  Cluirch 
then,  by  enormous  expenditure  of  money,  ()l)taiiie<l 
possession  of  great  part  of  the  cliurcli,  and  repaired  it. 
The  dome  again  having  fallen  almost  to  ruin,  was 
restored  1866-68  by  MM.  Ch.  Mauss,  M.  K|)piiig(»r, 
and  A.  Salzmaun,  under  tlie  direction  of  tlie  French, 
Russian,  and  Turkish  Governments. 

Before  enumerating  the  various  holy  places  shown 
with  the  church,  it  will  be  as  well  to  point  (»nt  iIm* 
Via  Dolorosa,  which  leads  to,  and  culminates  in,  the 
Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  the  last  five  Stations  of 
the  fourteen  being  within  the  building. 

Station  1 .  The  condemnation  of  Christ. — This  Mai  i<  »:i 
is  in  the  courtyard  of  the  Turkish  bnrracks,  whicji  lie 
at  the  north-west  corner  of  the  Ilaram  area,  on  the 
])lace  where  the  head  of  the  Scala  Sanctii  formerly 
rested  This  Scala  Sancta  is  now  shown  at  Komc, 
whither  it  is  said  to  have  been  transported  by  St. 
Helena. 

Station  2.  Chrid  laden  with  the  Cros.s.—  Y\\\ii  is 
said  to  have  taken  place  at  the  foot  of  the  Scala  Sancta, 
whc^e  former  position  is  now  marked  by  a  blocked  up 

G  2 


84  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

Saracenic  arch  in  the  wall  of  the  barracks,  opposite  to, 
and  a  few  yards  east  of,  the  gate  of  the  Church  of  the 
Flagellation. 

Station  3.  The  first  fall  of  Christ. — About  300  yards 
west  of  the  last,  at  the  comer  of  the  street  running  to 
the  Damascus  Gate.  The  spot  may  be  known  by  a 
broken  column  which  lies  on  the  left-hand  side. 

Station  4.  Meeting  of  Christ  with  the  Blessed 
Virgin. — This  Station  is  opposite  a  street  (Derh  el 
Serai)  running  east,  and  distant  fifty  yards  south  of 
No.  3. 

Station  5.  Christ  helped  by  Simon  the  Cyrenian. — 
Thirty  yards  from  the  last,  and  marked  by  an  indented 
stone  let  into  the  wall  of  a  house  at  the  end  of  a  street 
running  westward. 

Station  6.  House  of  Sta.  Veronica.,  where  Christ  left 
a  miraculous  imprint  of  his  face  on  a  handkerchief 
given  him  by  St.  Veronica.  This  Station  is  120  yards 
from  the  last,  and  is  marked  by  a  fragment  of  a  column 
let  into  the  pavement  on  the  left-hand  side. 

Station  7.  The  second  fall  of  Christ. — Eight  yards 
from  No.  6,  and  at  the  end  of  the  street.  The  house 
to  the  right  at  this  point,  lately  the  French  consulate, 
is  by  popular  legend  said  to  be  the  house  of  the  cobbler 
Alexander,  better  known  as  the  Wandering  Jew. 

Station  8.  Christ  addresses  the  women  of  Jerusa- 
lem.— Forty  yards  up  the  opposite  street,  a  hole  in  a 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  86 

stone  of  the  wall  of  the  Greek  convent  of  St.  Ciira- 
lambos  on  the  left  hand  marks  this  Station, 

The  ancient  road  is  here  snpposed  to  l)e  hlockL-d 
up,  and,  to  reach  the  9th  Station  the  pilgrim  must 
return,  and,  taking  the  first  turning  to  the  right,  pro- 
ceed for  140  yards  till  he  reaches  a  sloping  road  on 
the  right  leading  into  a  cul-de-sac^  at  the  end  of  wliich 
are  the  Coptic  and  Abyssinian  convents,  and  ])assing 
as  he  leaves  the  main  street  two  cokmms  which  are 
with  much  show  of  reason  supposed  to  be  part  of  the 
Basilica  of  Constautine.  Near  the  door  of  the  Coptic 
convent  is  a  column  let  into  the  wall  on  the  riglit 
hand.     This  marks — 

Station  9.  The  third  fall  of  Christ  beneath  the 
Cross. — We  then  come  to  the  Cliurch  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre,  to  visit — 

Station  10.  The  place  where  Christ  was  stripped  if 
his  robes. — This  Station  is  marked  by  a  circular  pattern 
of  coloured  marbles  let  into  the  pavement  in  the  south 
part  of  the  chapel  of  Calvary,  and  is  four  and  a  half 
yards  from  the  top  step  of  the  staircase  leading  up  into 
the  chapel. 

Station  11.  The  place  where  Christ  was  nailed  to 
the  Cross. — The  position  of  this  point  is  marked  by  a 
square  mosaic  in  the  floor,  two  and  a  half  yards  to  the 
east  of  the  former,  and  in  front  of  the  altar  of  the 
Crucifixion. 


86  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

Station  12.  The  Crucifixion. — This  point  belongs  to 
the  Greek  Orthodox,  and  is  marked  by  an  opening  in 
the  rock  in  wliich  the  Cross  was  planted. 

Station  1 3.  Where  Christ  was  taken  down  from  the 
Cross. — This  place  is  between  the  altars  of  the  setting 
uj)  of  the  Cross  and  of  the  Crucifying,  and  is  marked 
by  a  small  altar  dedicated  to  Stabat  Mater. 

Station  14.  The  Burial  of  Christ. — This  place, 
which  has  for  ages  been  an  object  of  veneration  and 
cause  of  the  utmost  fanaticism,  worshipped  by  some, 
and  sneered  at  by  others,  is  situated  beneath  the  centre 
of  the  great  dome. 

Having  thus  described  the  Via  Dolorosa,  before 
examining  the  various  sites  within  the  chiurch,  let  us 
take  our  stand  in  the  courtyard  in  front  of  the  south 
entrance,  the  only  one  now  open.  This  courtyard  is 
generally  filled  with  Bethlehem  peasantry,  chietly  old 
men,  women,  and  girls,  who  gain  a  livelihood  by  sell- 
ing the  multifarious  wares  of  mother-of-pearl,  the 
many-colourt'd  cliaplets,  the  crosses  and  crucifixes  of 
which  every  })ilgrim  deems  it  necessary,  or  at  least 
prudent,  to  lay  in  a  stock  sufficient  to  start  a  pedlar  of 
moderate  anihition.  On  certain  days  at  Easter-tide 
these  charms  are  ceremoniously  blessed  and  sprinkled. 
They  are  tlicii  warranted  genuine,  and  widely  sold 
throughout  semi-civilised  Europe. 

Tlie  courtyard  is,  in  part   at   all  events,  su])ported 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  87 

by  a  vault  with  a  semicircular  arched  roof.  The  fact 
of  its  being  used  for  a  cesspool  by  the  neighbcHiriii}^ 
Greek  convent  rendered  its  exploration,  when  attempted 
by  Major  Wilson,  E.E.,  impossible.  On  the  south  side 
are  the  Greek  convent  of  Gethsemane  and  a  chapel 
dedicated  to  the  Blessed  Virgin  {(J-^To^t]  rrig  Travayiu^) 
On  the  pavement  at  the  edge  of  the  court  are  bases  of 
three  columns,  which  seem  to  ha\e  formed  part  of  a 
portico  attached  to  the  church  built  in  the  eleventh 
century. 

On  the  west  are  three  Greek  chapels  attached  to 
the  great  convent,  and  called  respectively  after  St. 
James — in  the  Crusading  writers,  St.  Jacques  des  Jaco- 
bins ;  the  Forty  Martyrs  (of  Cappadocia) — (formerly 
La  Chapelle  de  la  Tres  Sainte  Trinite,  which,  in  the 
middle  ages,  was  specially  devoted  to  the  ceremonies 
of  marriage  and  baptism),  and  St.  John  and  St.  Mar}^ 
Magdalene ;  this  latter  occupies  the  ground  lloor  of  the 
tower. 

Opposite  these,  to  the  east,  are  tiie  Church  of  St. 
John  (Armenian),  in  whicli  is  shown  a  fragment  of  the 
Pillar  of  Flairellation,  the  Church  of  St.  Michael  (be- 
longing  to  the  Copts  and  connected  with  their  convent 
by  a  private  door),  and  the  Greek  convent  of  Abra- 
ham, with  a  church  dedicated  to  the  Twelve  Apostles. 
A  chapel,  too,  may  be  seen  upstairs,  on  the  traditional 
site  of  the  intended  sacrifice  of  Isaac  by  Abraham. 


88  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

The  soutli  side  of  tlie  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre 
itself  next  occupies  our  attention.  A  projecting  porch 
on  tlie  right  hand  of  the  grand  entrance  is  dedicated 
as  a  chapel  to  St.  Mary  of  Egypt.  Tradition  tells  us 
that  this  person  was  a  most  noted  sinner.  One  day, 
however,  being  desirous,  for  some  unexplained  reason, 
of  entering  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  an  un- 
seen hand  prevented  her.  Thereupon  she  became  con- 
vinced of  sin,  repented,  and  was  allowed  to  enter. 
After  living  a  life  of  solitary  penance  on  the  banks  of 
the  Jordan  for  upwards  of  thirty  years,  she  died  in  the 
beginning  of  the  fifth  century,  in  high  odour  of  sanc- 
tity. Above  this  is  the  Chapel  of  our  Lady  of  Sorrows 
(Notre  Dame  des  Douleurs),  which  opens  by  a  window 
into  the  Chapel  of  Calvary.  This  is  the  site  which 
tradition  points  out  as  occupied  by  the  Blessed  Virgin 
and  St.  John  whilst  Christ  was  being  nailed  to  the 
Cross.  The  former  of  these  chapels  belongs  to  the 
Greeks,  and  the  latter  to  the  Latins.  Between  this 
porch  and  the  chiu'ch  door  may  be  seen  the  flagstone 
engraved  with  the  name  of  Philip  d'Aubigny,  of  whom, 
however,  no  other  mention  seems  ever  to  be  made. 
Tiic  south  door  was  formerly  double,  but  only  the 
western  half  is  now  open,  tlie  other  having  been  walled 
up,  it  is  said,  in  tlie  time  of  Salah-ed-din.  The  archi- 
traves (jf  these  doorways  are  curiously  carved,  and 
represent   Christ's    triumphal    entry   into   Jerusalem. 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  80 

Below  the  windows  a  heavy  cornice  runs  along,  and 
beneath  this  towards  the  east  may  be  seen  some  rudely 
sculptured  lions.  The  tower  formerly  consisted  of  five 
stories,  but  as  the  upper  part  began  to  fall  into  decay, 
it  was  gradually  reduced  in  height  to  prevent  the 
danger  of  falling  masonry,  and  now  consists  of  only 
three  stories.  In  the  drawing  of  Le  Brun  (1678)  its 
original  state  is  shown. 

Entering  the  chiurch,  we  see  on  the  left  tlic  alcove 
in  which  sit  the  Turks,  to  whom  belongs  the  key  of 
the  door  (which,  however,  they  cannot  use  without 
permission  from  one  of  the  Patriarchs),  and  whose  duty 
it  is  to  see  that  no  factious  disturbances  or  free  fights 
are  indulged  in  by  the  rival  sects  of  Christians — strange 
parody  of  the  old  heathen's  speech,  '  See  how  these 
Christians  love  one  another  ! '  So  long  as  the  church 
is  open  some  three  or  four  of  them  sit  here  on  cushions, 
with  their  friends,  smoking  narghiles  or  chibouh,  and 
drinking  coffee. 

Facing  the  entrance  we  see  a  slab  of  red-veined 
Santa  Croce  marble  surrounded  by  a  low  rail,  and  sur- 
mounted by  lamps  always  burning.  This  slab  was 
placed  there  in  1808  by  the  Greeks,  in  place  of  a  slab 
of  black  marble  which  had  been  laid  there  soon  after 
the  purchase  of  the  spot  by  the  Franciscans  from  the 
Georgians  in  1555  for  the  sum  of  50,000  crowns.  The 
slab,  called  now  the  Stone  of  Unction,  marks  the  place 


90  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

which  tradition  declares  to  be  that  on  which  Joseph 
of  Ariraatlia^a  and  Nicodemus  embalmed  the  body  of 
Christ.  Helena  is  related  to  have  laid  a  fine  mosaic 
over  the  spot,  which  in  the  later  reconstructions  of 
Modestus  (about  620)  and  the  Greek  architects  (1408) 
was  not  contained  within  the  body  of  the  church,  but 
was  marked  by  a  small  detached  oratory  (cf.  William 
of  Tyre,  viii.  3).  Part  of  the  above-mentioned  mosaic 
still  existed  in  the  seventeenth  century. 

Thirteen  yards  west  of  the  Stone  of  Unction  may  be 
remarked  an  h'on  cage,  erected  over  the  spot  where 
the  holy  women  are  said  to  have  stood  whilst  the  body 
was  being  prepared  for  sepulture. 

We  next  come  to  the  Holy  Sepulchre  itself,  which 
lies  immediately  under  the  great  dome.  No  trace  of 
rock  in  situ  is  now  visible.  Every  part  is  cased  in 
yellowish  marble,  and  hung  with  tawdry-looking  lamps 
and  ornaments.  On  either  side  is  a  circular  opening, 
through  which  the  holy  fire  is  passed  by  the  Greek 
Patriarch  on  Easter  Eve.  At  the  entrance  are  six 
enormous  candlesticks,  holding  pillars  of  wax,  and  six 
rather  smaller.  These  are  equally  divided  amongst  the 
Armenians,  Franciscans,  and  Greeks.  Above  the  door 
are  forty-three  lamps,  of  which  the  Armenians,  Francis- 
cans, and  Greeks  possess  thirteen  each,  and  the  Copts 
four.  Against  the  west  end  of  the  tomb  is  an  altar 
covered  by  a  kind  of  canopy,  and  shut  off  by  iron  rail- 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  'Jl 

iugs.  Formerly  the  mediaaval  altur  of  the  Iloly  Sepul- 
chre stood  here  ;  it  is  now  a  chapel  belonging  to  the 
Copts.  The  interior  of  the  tomb  consists  of  two  com- 
partments. The  outer,  or  ante-chamber,  contains  a 
fragment  of  the  stone  rolled  away  by  tlie  angel  from 
the  mouth  of  the  sepulchre.  In  the  time  of  the  Cru- 
saders one  piece  of  this  rehc,  which  St.  Cyril  and  St. 
Antonine  relate  that  they  saw,  but  broken  into  two 
pieces,  formed  the  altar  on  Calvary,  while  another 
piece  was  let  into  the  pavement  in  front  of  tlie  Sepul- 
chre. 

In  this  place  fifteen  lamps  are  kept  burning,  five 
belonging  to  the  Franciscans,  the  same  number  to  the 
Greeks,  four  to  the  Armenians,  and  one  to  tlie  Copts. 

Hence,  a  low  doorway  leads  into  the  inner  chamber 
or  tomb  itself.  The  w^alls  are,  as  elsewhere,  covered 
with  marble  slabs,  and  whether  these  cover  living  rock 
or  not  is  still  a  matter  of  mere  conjecture.  The  ti)mb 
is  in  the  form  of  a  raised  bench  covered  with  wliite 
marble  slabs,  the  u])per  one  of  which  has  a  crack  rudely 
sawn  across  its  middle  to  the  depth  of  an  inch,  but  .so 
clumsily  done  that  the  sides  are  also  cut.  This  is  be- 
lieved by  the  more  credulous  of  tlie  ])ilgrims  to  be  an 
effect  of  the  earthquake  (Matt,  xxvii.  51).  The  nortli 
side  of  this  chamber  is  equally  divided  amongst  the 
Armenians,  Greeks,  and  Latins,  beginning  from  the 
left ;  and  the  pictures  and  other  decorations  are  sup- 


92  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

plied  by  these  sects.  In  the  west  wall  there  is  a  small 
secret  cupboard  concealed  by  a  hinged  picture.  Steps 
behind  the  outer  door  lead  up  to  the  roof,  and  are 
used  by  those  priests  to  whose  charge  the  lamps  are 
consigned. 

It  is  a  curious  and  not  unafiecting  sight  to  stand 
at  this  venerated  spot  for  a  short  time,  when  pilgrims  are 
numerous,  and  watch  the  intense  awe  and  devotion  with 
which  it  is  approached,  especially  by  uncouth  Eussian 
peasants ;  men  and  women,  who,  after  saving  steadily 
for  many  years,  have  been  able  to  scrape  together  the 
five  or  six  pounds  requisite  for  this  pilgrimage,  which 
has  been  their  life-long  ambition,  at  last  find  them- 
selves on  the  sacred  spot.  It  can  hardly  be  a  source  of 
wonder  that  these  untutored  minds,  laden  with  super- 
stition and  accustomed  to  the  material  adoration  of 
saints,  just  as  much  as  the  heathen  of  old  were  to  the 
worship  of  demigods  and  heroes,  should  look  upon  this 
marble  tomb  as  in  itself  worthy  of  the  most  reverential 
homage.  The  abject  awe  and  veneration  with  which 
these  rough-bearded,  long-haired  Northerns  approach 
it,  and  the  hysterical  emotion  of  their  homely  women, 
are  much  more  striking  than  the  most  passionate  display 
of  feeling  from  impulsive  Easterns  or  from  the  quickly 
moved  Latin  races. 

With  reference  to  the  original  form  of  the  ground 
in  this  place  tlicre  seems  no  doubt  but  tliat  the  rock 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  <).{ 

has  been  cut  away  from  the  side  towards  Calvarv,  m 
order  to  isolate  the  monument.  This  work  of  demoli- 
tion seems  to  have  been  begun  by  Helena,  who  is 
stated  to  have  destroyed  the  vestibule  of  the  tomb  for 
the  sake  of  ornamenting  the  shrine.  The  tomb  is  said 
to  have  been  originally  a  square  monolith  surmounted 
by  a  quadrangular  pyramid,  similar  in  fact  to  tlie  mo- 
nument in  tlie  Valley  of  the  Kedron,  known  as  that  of 
Zachariah.  A  hole  was  pierced  in  the  roof  to  allow 
the  smoke  caused  by  numerous  lamps  and  candles  to 
escape.  The  Crusaders  built  a  porch  before  the  tomb, 
open  on  three  sides,  and  it  was  in  the  pavement  of  this 
porch  that  one  piece  of  the  original  door  of  the  Se- 
pulchre was  laid. 

In  1555  the  covering  of  the  shrine  had  fallen  into 
disrepau',  and  was  renewed  by  the  Gustos  Terriu 
Sanctas,  Father  Boniface  of  Eagusa.  A  letter  from  this 
personage  has  been  preserved  by  Quaresmius,  which, 
though  disfigured  by  superstition,  still  contains  some 
curious  remarks.  The  following  extracts  must  be 
taken  for  what  they  are  worth  : — 

'  Finding  it  necessary  to  })ull  down  the  whole  of 
the  construction  in  order  to  give  greater  strength  to 
that  w^.  ich  was  intended  to  replace  it,  the  covering  was 
taken  off,  and  the  Sepulchre  of  our  Lord  appeared  in 
its  orisjinal  state,  hewn  in  the  rock.  Here  were  (lis- 
covered  two  frescoes  of  angels,  one  bearing  a  scroll 


f»4  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

with  these  words  :  "  He  is  risen,  and  is  no  longer  here," 
while  tlie  other,  pointing  with  its  finger  to  the  Se- 
pulchre, bore  this  inscription,  "  See  the  place  where 
they  laid  Him  ! "  These  two  paintings  crumbled  away 
on  exposure  to  the  au\  Being  obliged  to  raise  one  of 
the  alabaster  slabs  placed  over  the  tomb  by  Sta.  He- 
lena, in  oi'der  to  be  able  to  celebrate  mass  there,  we 
saw  disclosed  the  wondrous  place  in  which  our  Lord 
rested  for  three  days.  Heaven  seemed  open  to  us. 
Here  we  could  still  distinguish  the  blood  of  our  Lord 
mixed  with  the  ointment  which  had  served  to  embalm 
Him.  Li  the  centre  of  this  holy  spot  we  found  a  box 
wrapped  in  a  valuable  cloth  which,  immediately  on 
being  exposed  to  the  air,  fell  to  pieces,  and  nothing  re- 
mained in  our  hands  but  some  gold  thread,  which  had 
been  woven  into  it.  As  for  the  box  contained  in  the 
wmding  sheet,  it  had  formerly  borne  an  inscription, 
but  this  was  so  injured  by  time  tliat  it  was  impossible 
to  make  out  a  single  sentence.  ...  At  the  head  of 
a  parchment  one  could  with  ease  read  in  Latin  capital 
letters,  HELENA  MAG.  .  .  .' 

At  this  restoration  the  Crusaders'  Porch  was 
changed  into  the  Chapel  of  the  Angel.  The  present 
construction  dates  from  1808.  , 

We  next  come  to  the  chajiel  of  the  Syrians  and  the 
toml)  of  .T()S(.'j)h  of  Arimathaia,  and,  as  some  say,  of  Ni- 
codemu-*,  wliicli  belongs  to  the  Abyssinians.     Tradition 


MODERN  JERUSALE.yf.  'X, 

informs  us  that  Josepli  went  with  Lazarus,  Martha,  and 

Mary  Magdalene  to  Marseilles,  and  thence  to  Kiiglaud, 

where  he  founded  Glastonbury.     This  tomb  is  peculiar 

from  the  fact  that  it  is  cut  out  t)f  the  hardest  layer  of 

stone,  called  in  Arabic  mezzeh.     The  tombs  outside 

the  town  are  cut  in  the  malaki,  which  •  is  of  moderate 

hardness,  while  the  kakuli  is  too  crumbly  for  any  large 

work  to  be  done  in  it.    The  ante-chamber,  or  vestibule, 

of  this  tomb,  has  been  cut  otfby  the  wall  of  the  Eotunda. 

There  seem  to  have  been  three  loculi  at  the  cud.  and 

three  or  perhaps  more,  probably  four,  at  each   side. 

In  the  floor  is  a  sunken  loculus,  4  feet  4  inches  long, 

intended  perhaps  for  the  reception  of  treasure.     One 

fact  to  be  noticed  is  that  pointed  out  by  M.  le  Comte 

de  Vogile  ('Le  Temple  de  Jerusalem,'  p.  115),  namely, 

that  the  tool  marks  on  the  rock  are  identical  with  those 

in  the  tombs  recognised  as  Jewish  in  the  innnediate 

neighbourhood  of  Jerusalem.     For  further  particulars 

on  this  subject  the  above-quoted  book  may  be  well 

consulted.     The  unsupported  statement  of  Dr.  Torter, 

who,  in  arguing  that  if  the  tombs  are  ancient   tlie  fact 

is  not  in  any  way  favourable  to  this  being  the  site  of 

the  Holy  Sepulchre,  says,  'We  know   from  Scripture 

that  it  was  no  uncommon  tiling  for  men  to  have  their 

tombs  witliin  the  walls  of  cities,  and  even  in  their  <.wn 

houses;    and,  besides,  we  have  no  clue  to  the  date  of  • 

these  excavations;    they   may  be   of  any  date,  from 


96  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

Melchizedek  to  King  Baldwin,'  need  hardly  be  noticed, 
were  it  not  an  example  of  that  prejudice,  founded  on 
ignorance,  too  often  to  be  found  in  discussing  Jerusalem 
difficulties.  In  one  passage  (1  Kings  ii.  34)  we  are 
simply  told  that  Joab  was  buried  '  in  his  house  in  the 
wilderness,'  wliich  can  hardly  be  construed  as  a  proof 
that  burial  in  houses  was  a  common  practice  of  the 
Jews.  This  one  passage  and  those  relating  to  the 
burial  of  David  and  the  twelve  Kings  of  Judah  in  the 
royal  sepulclires  in  Zion,  are  the  only  notices  of  burial 
in  towns.  At  the  present  day  all  the  tombs  are  found 
at  a  httle  distance  from  the  ancient  sites  of  tlie  Jewish 
cities. 

The  intense  horror  of  the  Jews  at  the  idea  of  touch- 
ing or  even  approaching  dead  bodies,  whereby  they 
were  rendered  ceremonially  unclean,  made  them  use 
rock-hewn  tombs,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  their 
towns  it  is  true,  but  so  placed  that  walking  over  the 
tomb,  which  was  sufficient  to  render  a  person  unclean, 
was  difficult  or  impossible.  According  to  Jewish  tra- 
dition tlie  prophetess  Huldah  was  the  only  person 
besides  tlic  kings  who  was  buried  in  Jerusalem. 

As  I  have  before  mentioned,  the  fact  of  these  tombs 
existing  so  near  the  Holy  Sepulchre  proves  that  there 
is  IK)  iniprobabihty  in  the  supposition  that  au  old  tomb 
exists  on  the  spot  tliat  is  now  shown  as  that  of  Christ. 
Unless,  too,  these  tombs  are  later  tlian   tlie   time  of 


^WDElix  JEiivsALr.yr.  or 

Manasseh,  there  is  a  great  probability  that  tliey  were 
before  the  second  wall.  It  is  true  that,  if  the  so-calKHl 
Pool  of  Hezekiah  was  within  the  wall  (as  it  doubtless 
was)  and  the  present  Damascus  Gate  (Bab  el  'Amud) 
was  the  Fish  Gate,  tlicre  is  difficulty  in  reconciling  the 
angle  which  must  have  occurred  near  the  present 
Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  witli  Josephus's  descrip- 
tion of  the  w\all  as  KUKT^ovfxsvoi;  (circling).  The  truth  is, 
that  till  the  Gennath  Gate  or  part  of  the  second  wall 
be  satisfactorily  discovered,  our  knowledge  of  that  part 
of  the  city  is  purely  theoretical,  and,  such  being  the 
case,  we  can  hope  for  no  definite  and  satisfactory  con- 
clusions. 

In  a  courtyard  to  the  north-west  of  the  Rotunda 
is  a  large  vaulted  cistern,  called  the  Well  of  Ih-lcna, 
which  must  not  be  confused  with  the  one  Cidled  the 
Cistern  of  Helena,  near  the  Coptic  and  Abyssinian 
convents. 

To  the  north-east  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  is  the  Latin 
Chapel  of  St.  Mary  Magdalene.  A  rosette  in  the  pave- 
ment marks  the  spot  where  Christ  appeared  to  her,  and 
was  mistaken  for  the  gardener.  A  little  fartlier  north 
four  steps  lead  up  into  the  Church  of  the  Franciscan.", 
called  Chapelle  de  I'Apparition.  Here  is  marked  in 
the  pavement  the  place  where  the  Blessed  Virgin  re- 
mained during  the  wdiole  time  of  Christ's  ent<jmbment, 
holding  herself  aloof  from  the  tomb  on  account  of  the 

H 


iiH  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

Eomaii  guard.  Ilere,  too,  Christ  is  said  to  have  ap- 
peared to  His  Motlier  after  the  Eesurrection,  whence 
tlie  name  of  tlie  Chapel.  Legendary  history  asserts 
that  ]iere  St.  Macarius  and  Helena  restored  a  dead 
man  to  life  by  touching  him  with  the  true  Cross.  This 
chapel  was  visited  in  1102  by  Soewulf,  and  forms  part 
of  the  church  completed  in  1048.  The  Franciscans 
obtained  a  footing  in  it  in  1257,  and  their  title  was 
finally  confirmed  by  the  Moslems  in  1342.  There  are 
three  altars  here ;  that  nearest  the  door  contains  a 
fragment  of  the  Pillar  of  Flao;ellatiou.  This  relic  is 
kept  behind  a  grating,  which  is  only  opened  on  the 
morning  of  Wednesday  in  Holy  Week  :  at  other  times 
the  pilgrim  has  to  content  himself  with  vicariously 
kissing  the  column  by  touching  it  with  a  stick,  which 
he  then  applies  to  his  lips.  The  column  is  said  to  have 
been  removed  from  the  place  where  Christ  was  beaten 
to  the  Coenaculum,  where  it  was  placed  in  a  portico. 
Here  it  was  seen  by  Sta.  Paula  and  St.  Jerome  (Letter 
Ixxxvi.)  and  by  Arculphus  in  the  seventh  century.  It 
was  given  in  the  thirteenth  century  by  the  canons  of 
St.  Augustine  to  the  Fathers  of  the  Terra  Sancta,  but 
in  155.5  it  was  broken  up  by  the  Moslems.  Three 
fragments  were  sent  to  Europe  at  this  time,  viz.,  to 
Pope  Paul  IV.,  to  Philip  II.  of  Spain,  and  to  Venice, 
where  it  may  still  be  seen  in  St.  Mark's.  This  column 
is  of  p()r})hyry.     A  cohmiii  is  sliown  in  the  Church  of 


M()i)i:i{X  JKnrsALi'M.  no 

Sta.  Praxeda,  at  Eomc,  as  that  of  tlic  Flnr^ellntion.  It 
is  perfect,  and  of  coloured  marble,  streaked  with  grey 
and  white,  and  stands  upon  a  base.  This  was  taken 
from  Momit  Zion  to  Eome  in  1223,  by  Cardinal 
Colonna,  and  seems  to  have  no  legend  attached  to  it  to 
prove  its  authenticity,  even  in  the  eyes  of  the  Romish 
Church. 

On  leaving  the  Chapel  of  the  Apparition  the  Latin 
Sacristy  is  on  the  left  hand.  Here  may  be  seen  some 
interesting  relics,  namely,  the  spurs  and  sword  of 
Godefroy  de  Bouillon.  They  were  presented  to  tlie 
Franciscans  by  the  Bishop  of  Nazareth,  towards  tlie 
end  of  the  thirteenth  century.  The  sword  is  straight, 
double-edged,  and  heavy,  with  a  plain  cross  hilt.  Tlie 
spurs  are  of  copper,  and  seem  originally  to  have  been 
irilt :  the  rowels  are  of  enormous  size.  These  remains 
of  the  chivalry  of  Jerusalem  arc  still  used  in  the  in- 
vestiture of  Knights  of  St.  Jolm  of  Jerusalem  by 
the  Latin  Patriarch. 

Passing  eastwards  along  the  aisle  outside  the  Greek 
Church,  we  come  to  a  dark  chamber  called  the  Prison 
of  our  Lord,  where  He  was  temporarily  confined  before 
His  death.  A  large  stone  with  two  holes  through  it  is 
called  the  'Bonds  of  Christ,'  and  we  are  told  tliat  His 
feet  were  passed  through  the  holes  and  bound  with  a 
cord  beneath.  The  three  altars  erected  here  arc-  said 
by  some  to  be  for  the  three  prisoners,  by  others  to 

n  2 


100  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

iiuuk  the  spot  where  Christ  was  pkiced,  uud  where  the 
gate  of  tlie  garden  stood,  the  others  being  commemo- 
rative of  His  being  bound  to  the  pillar.  This  chapel 
belongs  to  the  Greeks,  who  always  keep  a  lamp  bm-n- 
ing  at  the  '  Bonds.' 

Keeping  on  towards  the  south-east,  we  come  to  the 
Chapel  of  Longinus.  This,  according  to  tradition  and 
the  Gospel  of  Mcodemus,  was  the  name  of  tlie  soldier 
who  pierced  Christ's  side  with  a  spear.  When  he  saw 
the  phenomena  accompanying  the  Saviour's  death,  he 
cried  out,  '  Truly  this  man  was  the  Son  of  God  '  (Matt, 
xxviii.  54  ;  Mark  xv.  39).  Some  of  the  blood  and 
water,  happening  to  trickle  down  the  shaft  of  the  spear, 
fell  on  to  his  hand,  and  with  this  he  chanced  to  touch 
one  of  his  eyes,  which  by  an  accident  had  been  de- 
stroyed. The  eyesight  was  immediately  restored,  and 
Longinus  became  a  Christian,  only  to  fall  a  victim  to 
the  ruthless  fanaticism  of  the  Jewish  rulers,  who  soon 
afterwards  murdered  him. 

Formerly  the  superscription  written  by  Pilate, '  This 
is  the  King  of  the  Jews,'  used  to  be  shown  in  this 
chapel ;  now,  however,  it  is  at  Eome,  in  the  Church 
of  Santa  Croce  di  Gerusalemme.  There  still  remains 
a  fi'agment  of  rock  said  to  have  been  cut  off  from  Cal- 
vary to  make  room  for  the  marble  casing. 

Three  paces  beyond  the  Chapel  of  Longinus  is  the 
closed  doorway  formerly  used  by  the  canons  to  enter 


MODHHX  JEliUSALLM.  101 

the  church.  It  was  closed  by  order  of  Siiluh-cd-diii, 
after  the  expulsion  of  the  Crusaders.  The  eastern  side 
of  this  entrance  was  visited  by  Major  Wilson,  IMv, 
from  a  chamber  half  filled  with  rubbisli  beneath  tlie 
Coptic  convent. 

We  next  come  to  tlie  Armenian  Cha[)el  of  ilie 
'Division  of  Vestments,'  where  tlie  soldiers  are  said  to 
have  cast  lots  for  Christ's  garments.  Tlie  coat  without 
seam  is  still  preserved  near  Argenteuil,  near  Paris,  and 
also  at  Treves,  in  Germany.  In  tlie  latter  jilace  it  is 
kept  bricked  up  in  the  high  altar,  and  only  exposed 
once  in  every  seven  years. 

Descending  the  twenty-nine  steps  to  our  left,  we 
reach  the  Chapel  of  Helena,  which  belongs  to  the 
Abyssinians,  who  have,  however,  virtually  handed  it 
over  to  the  Armenians  for  a  dole  of  bread  and  soup. 
This  half-underground  chapel  is  very  picturesque,  es- 
pecially if  seen  towards  evening,  when  but  a  faint  light 
gleams  through  the  small  windows  of  the  dome,  when 
a  mist  of  incense  rises,  and  the  candles  of  a  crowd  of 
pilgrims  hstening  to  mass  burn  with  a  weird  grey 
light.  The  heavy  Byzantine  cajutals  tlien  stand  out 
massively  against  the  deep  gloom  of  the  corners, 
whither  no  ray  of  candlelight  can  penetrate.  Tlien 
the  deep  voice  of  the  officiating  priest  sounds  muffled 
and  distant,  losing  itself  in  the  many  echoes  of  the 
damp  vaults. 


lUi>  ■     ''"" MVlJEliN  JERUSALEM. 

This  chajDel  was  built  by  Modestus  (eiglitli  cen- 
tury), and  restored  by  the  Crusaders.  In  the  north- 
eastern apse  is  an  altar  dedicated  to  St.  Dimas,  the 
Penitent  Thief;  the  other  altar  is  dedicated  to  St. 
Helena.  In  the  place  where  the  southern  apse  ought 
to  be  is  the  chair  of  Sta.  Helena,  in  which  she  sat  and 
watched  the  workmen  digging  for  the  True  Cross  in  the 
vault  below,  wliich  is  overlooked  by  a  rude  window 
cut  in  the  rock.  Descending  twelve  steps,  we  come 
into  this  vault,  the  Chapel  of  the  Invention  of  the  True 
Cross,  which  is  the  property  of  the  Franciscans.  The 
altar  to  the  north  is  called  that  of  the  Franks,  and  the 
other  that  of  the  True  Cross,  and  is  said  to  mark  the 
exact  spot  where  it  Avas  found.  Tradition  tells  us  that 
after  the  burial  of  Christ  all  the  instruments  of  His 
death  or  torture  were  necessarily  buried  as  unclean  in 
Jewish  estimation.  They  were  consequently  thrown 
into  this  place — an  unused  cistern  near  the  place  of 
Crucifixion — and  in  process  of  time  were  covered  up 
with  debris.  Helena,  inspired  by  piety,  excavated  in 
this  place,  and  found  not  only  the  instruments  of  cru- 
cifixion, but  also  the  crosses  of  the  two  thieves.  It 
was  tlien  a  puzzle  to  decide  which  was  the  True  Cross. 
St.  Macai'ius  hit  upon  the  happy  design  of  touching  a 
sick  lady  with  each  in  succession  ;  at  tlie  toucli  of  the 
third  she  was  instantaneouslj^  cured,  and  thus  the  Eeal 
Cross  was  made  known.     The  same  day  occurred  the 


MODERX  JKIilSALKM.  lo.j 

miracle  before  mentioned  of  tlie  dciul  man  lx-in<'  w- 
stored  to  life.  These  miracles  are  recorded  by  St. 
Cyril,  Bishop  of  Jerusalem,  in  a  letter  to  Constantius, 
son  of  Constantine  the  Great,  and  l^y  Eusebius  of 
Ciiesarea. 

Eeturning  to  the  upper  part  of  the  church,  we 
continue  to  the  left,  and  reach  the  Cli:ij)el  of  the 
Mocking,  which  belongs  to  the  Greeks.  Here  is 
shown  behind  an  u'on  crratinf^  a  fragment  of  a  column 
of  grey  syenite,  on  which  Christ  is  said  to  have  sat 
when  the  crown  of  thorns  was  put  on  Hi-;  head  in 
mockery  by  the  Roman  soldiers.  A  crown  of  thorns 
is  shown  here,  made  of  the  'Awsaj  (Lycium  europanim), 
which  is  very  common  in  the  outskirts  of  Jerusalem. 
By  the  ignorant  this  is  often  looked  uj)on  as  the 
original. 

Farther  on  we  come  to  the  steps  leading  up  to 
Calvary,  which  has  been  partly  described  in  the  Sta- 
tions of  the  Via  Dolorosa.  It  may  be  here  added  that 
the  Latin  part  of  the  chapel  (Station  XL)  is  supported 
on  arches.  The  explanation  of  this  is  that  Helena  cut 
away  the  ground  beneath  the  chapel  and  removed  it 
to  Eome ;  therefore  the  Station  occupies  the  actual 
position  that  it  did  when  the  rock  was  in  the  same 
state  as  it  was  at  the  time  of  the  Crucifixion.  The 
place  of  the  Elevation  of  the  Cross  belongs  to  the 
Greeks.     The  position  of  the  Cross  is  marked  by  a 


104  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

circular  hole  beneath  the  altar.  To  the  riglit  is  a 
hollow  in  the  rock — which  has  every  appearance  of 
being  in  situ  here — said  to  have  been  split  open  by  the 
earthquake  which  occurred  at  the  death  of  Christ.  It 
is  said,  too,  to  communicate  with  the  crack  shown 
below  in  the  Chapel  of  Adam.  Pellets  of  paper  and 
wax  dropped  into  the  upper  cavity  proved  to  me  that 
this  is  not  the  case. 

The  altar  at  the  place  of  Crucifixion  is  surmounted 
by  paintings  and  enamels  in  the  Eussian  style,  heavy 
with  gold  and  silver  plates,  and  ornamented  with 
jewels.  The  lamps  which  hang  from  the  ceiling  are 
costly,  and,  if  examined  closely,  of  beautiful  work ;  all 
the  fittings  are  most  rich,  but  the  general  effect  is 
tawdry  and  tinselly;  everything  is  overloaded  with 
ornament,  and  things  in  themselves  handsome  appear 
poor  in  the  middle  of  such  incongruous  profusion. 

To  the  north  of  the  Stone  of  Unction  are  two  steps, 
which  mark  the  place  formerly  occupied  by  the  funeral 
monuments  of  Baldwin  II.  (d.  1131),  of  Fulke  (d.  1142), 
of  Baldwin  III.  (d.  1162),  of  Amaury  of  Anjou  (d. 
1174  or  1175),  of  Baldwin  V.  the  leper  (d.  1186),  and 
of  Baldwin  VI.  (d.  1186).  These  monuments  were 
destroyed  by  the  Greeks  at  the  same  time  (1808)  that 
they  demolished  those  of  Godefroy  de  Bouillon  (d. 
1110)  and  Baldwin  I.  (d.  1113),  which  formerly  stood 
on   the  right   and  left  hand   sides  respectively  of  the 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  10.-, 

ante-chamber  of  tlie  Chapel  of  Adam.  Nothing  wyw 
marks  the  place  of  their  sepulture  but  a  plain  stone 
bench.  The  following  Avere  the  two  inscriptions  on 
these  tombs  : — 

Eex  Baldewinus  Judas  alter  Machabeua 

Spes  patriae  vigor  Ecclesi;o  virtus  utriusquo 
Quern  formidabant  cui  dona  tributa  ferebaut 
Cedar  et  Egyptus :  Dan :  ac  homicida  Damascus. 
Proh  dolor !  in  medico  clauditur  hoc  tumulo. 

Mirificum  sidus,  dux  hie  recubat  Qodefridus, 
Egipti  terror,  Arabum  fuga,  Persidia  error 
Rex  licet  electus,  rex  nolit  intitulari 
Nee  diademari :  sed  sub  Christo  famidari. 
Ejus  erat  cur  a  Syon  sua  reddere  jura 
Oatholiceque  sequi  sacra  dogmata  juris  et  equi 
Totium  scisma  teri  circa  se,  j usque  foveri 
Sic  et  cum  supens  potuit  diadem  mercri 
Milicie  speculum,  populi  vigor,  anchora  cleri.' 

The  occasion  of  their  destruction  by  tlie  Greeks 
was  the  acquisition  of  a  firman  empowering  tlicni  to 
rebuild  whatever  had  been  damaged  by  the  lire  in 
the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  Profiting  by  tlu' 
occasion,  they  lengthened  the  Chapel  of  Calvury, 
blocked  up  the  south-western  staircase,  and  obhte- 
rated  the  tombs  above  mentioned. 

In  the  Chapel  of  Adam,  where  a  curious  and  early 
tradition  mentioned  by  Basil,  Origen,  and  others,  places 
the  burial-place  of  the  first  man,  is  shown  the  hollow 
in  which  his  skull  rested,  and  a  painting  illustrates  the 

1  Quoted  by  De  Vogii^,  from  '  Uue  relation   manuscrite  du   !-'»• 

Siecle.' 


KX;  MODEltX  JERUSALEM. 

legend  tliat,  at  the  time  of  the  Crucifixion,  blood 
trickled  down  and  restored  him  to  life.  In  this  same 
cave  Melchizedek  is  also  related  to  have  been  buried. 

An  unorthodox  legend  states  that  the  altar  in  this 
chapel  stands  upon  the  place  occupied  by  the  cock 
who  crowded  the  third  time  to  Peter. 

We  must  now  turn  to  the  Greek  Church,  which 
occupies  the  nave  of  the  building.  The  decorations 
are,  at  certain  festivals,  extremely  handsome.  Amongst 
others  are  a  large  series  of  Scriptural  and  ecclesiastical 
subjects  in  silver  repousse  work.  They  are  of  Eussiau 
design  and  workmanship,  and  are  well  executed  :  their 
value  is  said  to  be  enormous.  They  are  in  frames 
imder  glass,  and  form  a  double  row  above  the  stalls, 
extending  all  the  length  of  the  body  of  the  church. 

Near  the  west  entrance  may  be  seen,  in  the  middle 
of  the  floor,  a  hemisphere  of  marble,  supported  by  a 
cup-topped  pillar  of  the  same  material.  This  was 
settled  by  the  disciples  of  Photius  (about  the  eighth 
century)  to  be  the  centre  of  the  earth.  Soewulf  further 
proves  this  to  his  own  satisfaction,  for  he  says  'Our 
Lord  Himself  signified  with  His  own  right  hand  that 
this  spot  is  the  middle  of  the  world,  according  to  the 
words  of  the  Psalmist,  "  For  God  is  my  King  of  old, 
making  salvation  in  ihe  midst  of  the  earth."  ' 

At  the  east  end  the  screen  usual  to  Greek  churches 
has  been  erected,  a  lieavy  structure  of  wood  cutting 


MODERN  JEIiUiiALEM.  1U7 

off  the  apse  and  part  of  tlie  presbytery  from  the  nave. 
The  patriarch's  throne  is  in  the  centre  of  the  apse,  im- 
mediately behind  the  high  altar.  The  ordinary  seat  of 
the  patriarch  is  at  the  south-east  pier  of  the  lantern  ; 
opposite  this  are  chairs  for  any  other  })atriarchs  who 
may  chance  to  be  present. 

This  church  was  originally  built  as  clioir  to  the 
Latin  Church,  and  the  style  was  similar  to  tliat  wliich 
still  is  visible  on  the  southern  facade.  Of  the  original 
architecture  nothing  but  the  piers  and  arches  of  tlie 
lantern  remain,  the  rest  of  the  building  having  been 
restored  according  to  modern  Greek  taste  in  1808. 
The  wooden  structiu-es  which  separate  it  from  the  side 
aisles  date  also  from  this  period. 

Holy  Fire. — A  short  account  of  this  ceremony, 
which,  owing  to  various  circumstances,  is  diminishing 
every  year  in  importance,  may  not  prove  uninteresting. 
Were  it  not  for  the  increasing  number  of  Russian  pil- 
grims who  yearly  tlirong  to  Jerusalem,  this  hideous 
impostiu-e  would  long  ago  have  died  a  natural  death. 

The  Latin  Church,  after  suffering  from  the  usurpa- 
tion of  the  Greeks  in  the  year  1808,  was  the  first  to 
pronounce  this  pyrotechnical  display  an  imposture,  and 
to  denounce  it  ex  cathedra.  The  good  sense  of  the 
Armenians  soon  led  them  to  do  the  same,  and  none  of 
that  community  except  some  of  the  more  ignorant  and 
fanatic  put  any  faith  in  it  at  present.     Many  Eoman 


108  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

Catholics  attend,  but  show  more  })iignacity  than  reli- 
gious enthusiasm.  The  origin  of  tliis  ceremony  is 
obscure.  It  has  probably  been  elaborated  by  degrees 
to  suit  the  requirements  of  pilgrims.  In  the  beginning 
of  the  fourth  century  Eusebius  heard  a  legend  that 
water  in  the  lamps  was  miraculously  turned  to  oil  on 
tiie  Easter  Eve  at  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  Five  centuries 
later  this  legend  was  improved  upon,  and  an  angel  was 
said  to  come  and  light  the  lamps  on  that  occasion.  In 
the  Crusading  period  not  only  the  lamps  of  the  church, 
but  even  those  of  King  Baldwin's  dinner  table,  were 
miraculously  lighted. 

At  the  present  day  the  fire  is  said  to  descend  upon 
the  slab  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  in  the  form  of  fiery 
dew  of  a  bluish  colour.  This  has  the  pecuharity  of 
not  burning  anything  that  touches  it,  so  the  Greek 
patriarch  is  enabled  with  impunity  to  gather  it  together 
iji  his  hands,  and  place  it  in  a  vessel.^  From  this  the 
candles  are  lighted,  and  passed  through  the  holes  in 
the  wall  of  the  sepulchre  before  mentioned.  Formerly, 
ill  the  days  of  tinder-boxes,  great  delay  used  occasion- 
ally to  occur  in  the  appearance  of  the  fire ;  but  things 
are  managed  better  now-a-days,  and  the  delay  of  a  few 
minutes  in  working  the  miracle  is  all  that  the  impatient 
l)ilgrim  need  look  forward  to. 

In  the  year  1S7I,  Easter  Day,  according  to  both 

'  This  account  1  received  from  Mgr.  Oyrillos,  the  laic  patriarch. 


MODERN  JERUSALEM.  K© 

Old  and  Xew  Style,  fell  on  April  9tli  (N.S.).  Conse- 
quently, the  services  of  all  the  sects,  Latin,  Greek, 
Armenian,  Coptic,  and  Syrian,  coincided,  and  the  tra- 
veller was  enabled  duiing  Holy  Week  to  see  the 
various  ceremonials  which  usually  took  place  at  dif- 
ferent times,  according  as  the  c] lurches  adopt  the  Old 
or  New  Calendar. 

The  following  notes  on  the  ceremony  of  the  Holy 
Fire  are  taken  from  my  journal  at  that  time  : — 

'April  8,  Saturday. — At  11.45  a.m.  we  went  to  tlie 
Church  of  the  Holy  Sepidchre,  and  took  our  {)laces  in 
the  upper  gallery  (immediately  beneath  tlie  dome),  to 
wliicli  access  is  obtained  from  tlie  Greek  convent  i»f 
Constantine.  Hence  we  had  an  excellent  bird's-eye 
view  of  the  whole  proceeding,  and,  though  the  crowd 
of  men  on  the  floor  of  the  building  looked  ridiculously 
small,  were  able  to  distinguish  evciything  most  ex- 
actly. The  north  and  we.<t  part  of  the  second  gallery 
belong  to  the  Latins,  but  to  this  no  ladies  are  admitted. 
The  south  part  belongs  to  tlie  Armenians,  who  are 
more  gallant  than  their  neighbours ;  but  the  view  from 
this  gallery  is  not  so  good  as  from  the  upper  one,  great 
part  of  the  crowd  being  hidden  by  the  sepulclire  itself. 
Below  this  g.dlery  are  arclies  between  the  pilasters, 
and  lower  still,  circidar  windows,  in  front  of  wiiicli 
wooden  platforms  had  been  erected.  Thc.-^e— patron- 
ised  chiefly  by  native   women — and   every  otlier  pomt 


110  MODEBN  JERUSALEM. 

of  vantage,  were  densely  crowded.  Tlie  number  of 
persons  in  the  bod)^  of  the  Eotunda  was  not  great  at 
this  time,  and  many  were  seated  on  the  ground.  At 
12.15  a  bell  rang,  and  the  crowd  rose  to  their  feet, 
and  began  to  sway  to  and  fro,  struggling  feebly  to 
obtain  good  places.  The  Latins  were  to  the  north,  the 
Greeks  and  Armenians  to  the  south.  A  few  small  but 
well-organised  rushes  were  occasionally  made  from  the 
north-west  aisle  to  the  hole  whence  the  fire  is  given 
out.  The  southern  side  w^as  kept  very  quiet  and  or- 
derly by  the  exertions  of  some  half-dozen  strapping 
fellows  who  acted  as  amateur  poHcemen,  and  kept 
open  a  path  for  one  of  their  number  to  pass  along 
when  he  had  received  the  first  fire.  For  this  a  large 
sum  is  paid,  as  it  is  supposed  to  have  miraculous 
powers.  This  year  it  was  bought  by  a  Eussian.  As 
much  as  100/.  is  sometimes  said  to  be  paid  for  it. 
Now  appears  on  the  scene  'Ah  Bey,  chief  of  police,  an 
old  man  accustomed  to  his  work,  and  followed  by  a 
troop  of  Turkish  soldiers.  The  crowd  melts  away  in 
the  most  ludicrous  fashion  before  the  well-known  kur- 
Ixij  (hippopotamus-hide  wlii}))  of  the  l^ey.  The  sol- 
diers form  a  horseshoe  from  north-east  to  south-west 
of  tlie  sepulchre. 

'  At  1.15  llie  crowd  had  become  dense,  and  on  the 
nortli  side  was  vigorously  engaged  in  singing  such  dog- 
grels  as  the  following: — 


MODERy  JKinsALllM.  \\\ 

1.  El  Messiah  at'aaim  2.  Sebt  el  ndr  wa  'ayduA. 
Bi  dimihii  ishtarana  AVa  Imdlin  kiibr  syyidnn. 

Nahna  el  vom  ferana  3.  Ya  yelnid,  yu  yt-Inid. 
Wal  yehud  liezana.  'Aydkimi  'ayd  el  kuriid. 

Which  may  bo  paraphrased  : — 

1.  Messiah  was  pierced  with  a  spear. 
With  his  blood  he  bought  us  dear ; 
A  gladsome  day  we  make  it  here, 
But  the  Jews  have  wailing  cheer. 

2.  The  Sabbath  brings  us  feast  and  light, 
And  this  is  the  tomb  of  the  Lord  of  miglit. 

3.  Oh  Jews,  oh  Jews, 

Youi"  feast  is  the  monkey's  feast. 

By  singing,  stamping  tlieir  feet,  and  clapping  tlicir 
"hands,  they  soon  worked  themselves  uj)  into  a  state  of 
some  little  excitement.  A  free  fight  began  in  tlic 
north-east  corner,  but  was  put  a  stop  to  by  the  vigo- 
rous application  of  the  kiwlxtj,  not,  however,  before  a 
man's  hand  and  shoulder  had  been  severely  bitten,  and 
two  or  three  individuals  had  had  their  clothes  nearly 
torn  off  their  backs.  After  this  the  men  began  to 
climb  on  one  anotlier's  shoulders  near  the  fire-hole, 
shouting  and  gesticulating  wildly  till  they  were  pulled 
down  and  extincruished.  At  2  p.m.  the  soldiers  had 
completed  a  double  Hue  round  the  sepulchre,  and 
stood  with  fixed  bayonets.  The  procession  then  began 
to  file  out  of  the  Greek  Church.  First  came  seven  flags, 
for  the  possession  of  one  of  wliitli  a  long  and  well- 
sustained  fight  took  place.  The  causa  belli  was  at  last 
triumphantly  captured    by  the    soldiers.     Then   came 


112  MODERN  JERUSALEM. 

twenty  Greek  bishops,  one  of  Avhom  was  bareheaded, 
being  intended  to  receive  the  Holy  Fire  at  the  southern 
hole.  After  these  came  eighteen  pnests  dressed  in 
black,  and  seven  deacons.  Xext  were  earned  two 
silver  articles  shaped  like  a  gigantic  clove  two  feet 
long,  and  perforated  at  top ;  these  contained  forty  can- 
dles each,  and  were  intended  for  the  protection  of  the 
first  fire,  which  otherwise,  in  the  struggle  of  every  pil- 
grim to  obtain  a  light,  woidd  infallibly  be  put  out. 
Tlien  came  the  Patriarch  Cyrillos,  dressed  in  a  vest- 
ment of  white  and  gold,  and  wearing  a  black  cap  and 
veil.  His  pastoral  staff  was  of  wood  and  ivory.  Be- 
hind liini  was  borne  a  red  banner,  and  then  came  the 
seetliing  mob.  A  Syrian  priest,  in  the  absence  of  the 
bibhop,  now  takes  his  stand  at  the  door  of  the  sepul- 
chre to  give  the  fire  to  his  flock.  Meanwhile  the 
seijulchre  is  shut  and  sealed :  a  priest,  liowever,  was 
inside,  and,  forgetting  that  tlie  upper  gallery  over- 
looked him,  came  on  to  the  roof  to  trim  some  lamps. 
After  the  procession  has  passed  three  times  round  the 
tomb — left  liand  inside — the  Patriarch  is  unrobed  by 
tlie  deacons,  and  enters  the  tomb  clad  in  a  long  white 
silk  sliirt.  The  door  is  locked  behind  liim.  A  minute 
or  two  afterwards  the  bells  begin  to  ring,  and  the  fire 
immediately  appears  at  the  iwo  holes.  Tlie  men  who 
li:ivc  l)('<'n  hieky  enougli  to  get  it,  try  to  rush  off  to 
the   dill'crent   galleries    pursued    by   others,  like   dogs 


yroDj-nx  jeiu'smem.  ua 

fighting  for  a  bone.  The  lights  soon  spread  over  the 
church,  and  a  dense  smoke  arises  from  tlie  ihousands 
of  candles.  The  crowd  continues  to  swav  and  strufrtTle 
till  every  candle  has  beenht.  After  a  few  minutes  all 
the  lights  are  blown  out,  the  candles  being  kept  as  a 
sacred  relic,  and  the  crowd  begins  to  disperse.  Many 
of  the  pilgrims  pass  the  flame  over  their  bodies,  faces, 
and  hands,  as  it  is  said  never  to  burn  them.  The 
Greek  Patriarch  then  made  his  appearance  from  the 
"sepulchre,  and  had  to  be  pushed  and  pidled  through 
the  crowd  by  two  deacons.' 

Such  is  the  scene  which,  by  a  Uttle  extra  fanati- 
cism, a  panic,  or  any  exciting  cause,  might  at  any  mo- 
ment be  turned  into  a  scene  of  carnage  and  horror  like 
that  of  1834,  so  vividly  described  in  Curzon's  '  Monas- 
teries of  the  Levant.'  The  bayonets  of  the  Turkish 
soldiers  would  then  be  indiscriminately  used,  and  what 
is  intended  as  a  protection  would  really  become  an 
engine  of  destruction.  As  I  have  before  said,  were  it 
not  for  the  growing  influence  of  Eussia  in  Palestine, 
this  mummery  would  have  become  a  thing  of  the  past. 
Let  us  hope  that,  as  their  power  increases,  they  will 
take  measures  for  preventing  accidents,  for  it  ran 
hardly  be  hoped  that  the  exigencies  of  the  pilgrims 
will  allow  of  the  Holy  Fire  being  abolished. 


NOTES  FOE  A  HISTOEY  OF  JEEUSALEil. 


-The  city  of  Jerusalem  must  have  at  tliis  time  pre- 
sented a  sad  spectacle  to  those  who  had  known  it 
before  the  capture  by  Titus.  The  temple  was  l)urii!, 
the  walls  thrown  down,  the  houses  ruined  and  sackctl ; 
nothing  remained  but  the  three  towers,  and  such 
patched-up  dwellings  as  the  few  Jews  who  still  clung 
to  the  spot  had  arranged  for  their  own  shelter.  The 
tradition,  however,  that  the  Eomans  laid  tlie  city 
under  a  ban,  with  t]ie  intention  of  preventing  it  from 
ever  being  rebuilt,  seems  to  have  arisen  in  quite 
modern  times,  and  is  not  worthy  of  consideration. 
Whether  the  Christians  returned  from  Telia,  on  tlie 
east  of  the  Jordan,  soon  after  the  destruction  of  tlie 
city  or  not,  is  doubtful.  Eusebius  relates  that  at  this  . 
time  they  chose  Simeon  for  their  bishop,  and  tradition 
adds  that  the  seat  of  the  bishopric  was  at  Jerusalem. 

From  A.D.  75  to  130  Jerusalem  is  never  mentioned 
in  history.  During  this  period  the  chief  resorts  of  the 
Jews  in  Palestine  were  in  Galilee  and  on  the  maritime 
plains.     It  is  probably  at  this  time  that  Tiberias  anil 


IIG  XOTl-S  FOR    A    IlISTORV   OF  JERUSALEM. 

Safjit  (now  called  Safed)  began  to  be  the  seats  of 
rabbinical  learning,  as  we  know  Jabneh  or  Janinia 
(the  modern  Yebnah)  was  a  city  not  far  to  the  south 
of  Jaffa.  The  rabbinical  power  had  long  been  grow- 
inir,  but  now  decentralisation  added  much  to  its  strenrjth. 
By  moral  and  physical  punishment,  by  cursing  and 
scourging,  they  gained  a  hold  over  their  congregations 
even  greater  than  that  of  an  Irish  parish  priest  at  the 
present  day.^  Tliis  power  is  still  kept  up  by  the  rabbis 
in  all  places  where  the  ignorance  and  superstition  of 
tlieir  flock  allow  of  it.  At  Jerusalem  the  hallukah  or 
alms  is  a  potent  weapon,  but  at  Safed  the  old  tyran- 
nical power  may  be  seen  to  best  advantage.  In  the 
year  of  grace  1870,  a  woman  wa^  scourged  there  by 
order  of  some  rabbis.  Her  crim.-^  was  adultery ;  the 
man  by  whom  she  had  been  led  astray  was  one  of 
those  who  condemned  her.  A  fortnight  after  the  in- 
fliction of  the  punishment  she  died. 

A  combined  revolt  of  the  Jews  in  Babylon,  Judaia, 
Eg}^t,  and  Cyrene,  was  put  down  by  the  Emperor 
Trajan,  who  died  a.d.  117.  He  was  succeeded  by 
Hadrian,  who  spent  the  greater  part  of  his  reign  in 

'  I  believe  that  this  statement  has  before  been  published,  and  strong-ly 
or  at  lt'n.-it  eneiyctically  contradicted.  I  need  only  .«ay  that  I  heard  tlie 
Htory  for  the  first  time  from  the  lips  of  a  Jew  at  Tiberias,  and  at  Safat  it 
was  repeated  to  me  also  by  a  Jew.  European  Jews  are  far  too  apt  to 
judge  their  Kastem  co-relipionists  by  an  educated  and  civilised  standard. 
In  reality  tliere  is  as  much  ditlV-rence  between  a  middle-class  Jew  in 
llnphmd,  Trance,  or  .Vnierica,  as  there  is  between  the  Kiiglish  middle 
class  and  a  camp  of  '  roughs '  on  an  old  Californian  gold-field. 


NOTES  FOR  A   JIIISTORY   OF  JKRlSALEM.  117 

travelling  over  his  vast  dominions.  He  seems  to  liuve 
visited  Palestine  about  a.d.  130,  and  then  gave  orders 
for  the  refortification  of  Jerusalem,  which  was  begun 
before  the  rebellion  of  Barcliochebas,  but  not  fmislu'd 
till  that  revolt  had  been  stamped  out.  This  determi- 
nation of  Hadrian  to  convert  Jerusalem  into  a  lioman 
city  may  have  hastened  the  insurrection  ;  at  all  events, 
when  the  Emperor  quitted  the  East  in  a.d.  132,  a 
leader  suddenly  arose  named  Barchochebas — the  Son 
of  a  Star.  This  man,  of  whose  previous  history  nothing 
is  known,  was  energetically  supported  by  Eablii  Akiba, 
who  declared  him  to  be  the  Mes.si;ili.  Tliis  Akiba 
had  more  influence  than  any  of  the  other  rabbis,  and 
by  his  help  Barchochebas  found  himself  at  the  head  of 
two  hundred  thousand  zealots.  He  tried  to  persuade 
the  Christians  to  follow  his  standard,  and  on  tlit'ii-  re- 
fusing to  do  so  treated  them  with  great  cruelty,  thus 
widening  the  breach  that  already  existed  between  the 
two  religions. 

For  his  participation  in  this  revolt  Akiba  was  tor- 
tured to  death  by  Turnus  Eufus,  the  lioman  governor 
of  Jerusalem.  Barchochebas  then  seized  that  city,  as 
well  as  fifty  fortified  places,  and  nine  hundred  and 
eighty-five  large  villages.  At  first  the  Komans  disre- 
garded this  rising,  and  left  Turnus  Eufus  witli  a  few 
troops  to  carry  on  a  desultory  warfare  in  tlie  neigh- 
bourhood of  Jerusalem.     Soon,  however,  Hadrian,  saw 


118         NOTES  FOR  A   HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM. 

the  serious  turn  things  were  taking,  and  Imrrying  his 
general  Julius  Severus  from  Britain,  he  sent  him  with 
a  large  force  to  Palestine.  Then  one  by  one  the 
Jewish  strongholds  fell  into  his  hands.  The  siege  of 
Jerusalem  is  nowhere  described,  and  only  mentioned 
by  one  writer,  Appian.  The  rabbis,  too,  are  silent  on 
tlie  subject.  This  may  perhaps  be  accounted  for  by 
the  fact  tliat  the  walls  were  not  yet  rebuilt,  and  conse- 
quently that  no  great  resistance  took  place  here  as  in 
former  wars.  This  idea  is  further  confirmed  by  the 
last  struggle  being  at  Bether.  When  this  last  Jewish 
stronghold  was  taken  by  the  Eomans,  their  horses  are 
said  to  have  waded  up  to  their  girths  in  torrents  of 
blood,  which,  according  to  other  accounts,  were  strong 
enough  to  roll  stones  of  foitr  pounds  weight  along  the 
streets.  Many  thousand  captives  were  sold  by  tlie  oak 
of  Abriiliam  near  Hebron,  where  an  annual  fair  was 
wont  to  be  held.  The  remainder  were  shipped  off  to 
Egypt,  and  many  of  tliem  died  by  shipwreck  and 
famine.  All  Jews  were  now  strictly  prohibited  from 
visiting  Jerusalem  under  pain  of  death,  and  a  garrison 
was  stationed  there  to  enforce  the  edict. 

Judaism  now  seemed  scotched  if  not  killed,  but 
the  great  vitality  and  fertility  shown  by  the  Hebrews 
wlien  in  hard  bondage  at  Memphis  or  Babylon,  soon 
made  tliem  again  a  numerous  people. 

Having  got  rid  of  tlic  Jews,  Hadiian  began  to  re- 


NOTES  FOR   A    llLSrORY   OF  JERUSALEM.  lilt 

build  and  beautify  Jerusalem,  a  work  which  had  been 
hindered  by  the  insurrection  of  Barchochebas.  In 
A.D.  13G  on  the  occasion  of  his  viccnnalia  fenterintT 
upon  the  t\yentieth  year  of  his  reign)  he  gave  th(i 
city  the  name  of  Colonia  iElia  Capitohna,  his  piai- 
nomen  being  jEhus  Capitolinus,  in  honour  of  Jupiter 
with  that  title,  whose  fane  he  had  erected  in  the  (jld 
temple  area.  A  shrine  of  Venus  too  was  placed  on  the 
site  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  and  according  to  Eusebius 
existed  in  the  time  of  Constantine.  This  seems  to 
have  been  done  as  an  indignity  to  the  Christians,  who 
were  often  looked  upon  by  the  Komans  as  a  Jewish 
sect.  The  Jerusalem  Christians  now  either  came  from 
Pella,  or,  if  a  number  had  already  done  so,  received 
reinforcements  thence:  in  order  to  give  an  outward 
sign  of  separation  from  the  Jews,  from  whom  and  on 
whose  accoimt  they  had  suffered  so  much,  they  now 
elected  a  Gentile  convert,  one  Marcus,  as  Bishop  of 
Jerusalem. 

Episcopal  Succession  in  tui;  See  of  jERisAr,K.M. 
(Le  Quien's  '  Oriena  Chriatianus,'  torn,  iii.) 


A.D. 

Circa    30. 

S.  James  the  J  ust. 

A.I). 

Philip. 

60. 

S.  Simeon. 

Circa  IL'5. 

Seneca. 

107. 

Justus,  or  Juda.s  I. 

Justus  II 

111. 

Zacchjeus. 

Levi. 

Tobias. 

Ephraim. 

Benjamin. 
John  I. 

Joseph  I. 
Judas  II. 

Matthias. 

Here  ends  the  line  of  the  circumcision. 


120 


XOTJ:s  FOJi  A   HlSrORY  OF  JERUSALEM. 


A.I). 

Circa  135.  Marcus. 
156.  Ca-s.^^ian. 

rul)liu8. 

Maximus  I. 

Julian  I. 

Caiiis  I. 

SymmBchus. 

Cains  II. 

Julian  II. 

Oapito. 
185.  Maximus  II. 

Antonius. 

Valens. 

Dolicliianus. 

Narcissus. 


Germanion. 

Gordius. 
212.  Alexander. 
250.  Mazabanes. 
265.  Ilymenteus. 
298.  Zambdas. 
302.  Ilei-mon. 
313.  Macarius  I. 
335.  Maximus  III. 
351.  S.  Cyril. 

Eiitychius. 

Ivenceus. 

Hilarms. 
387.  John  II. 


The  names  in  italic  are  those  of  '  heretical  in- 
truders.' ^ 

The  name  of  Jerusalem  now  began  to  be  forgotten, 
and  ^lia  occupied  its  place.  A  story  is  told  of  a 
Christian  who  was  being  questioned  by  Firmilianus, 
governor  of  Caisarea;  when  he  said  that  Jerusalem 
(meaning  the  heavenly)  was  his  city,  his  judges  were 
non-plussed,  and  asked  him  wliere  this  town  was  to  be 
found.  In  the  time  of  Constantine  the  old  name  was 
to  some  extent  revived,  but  that  of  ^lia  is  used  as  late 
as  A.D.  53G,  in  the  report  of  a  synod  held  in  the  city 
itself.  This  name  is  mentioned  too  by  Adamnanus  in 
the  end  of  tiic  seventh,  and  Mejr-ed-Din  at  the  close  of 
the  fifteenth  century. 

Till  tlie  time  of  Constantine  the  Jews  seem  to  have 
been  rigorously  excluded  from  Jerusalem.     They  were 

'  From  Williams"  '  Uoly  City,'  vol.  i.  p.  487. 


NOTES  FOR  A   HISTORY   OF  JFRfSAI.RM.         ]-Jl 

then  permitted  to  come  near  the  city,  and  at  last  tlic 
favour  was  granted  them  of  being  allowed  to  weep  and 
wail  over  their  long-ruined  but  still  cherished  sanctuary 
once  every  year. 

Now  that  Christianity  began  to  take  real  root  in 
the  western  world,  pilgrimages — the  necessary  conse- 
quence of  a  religion's  origin  being  localised — began  to 
be  in  vogue.  The  first  recorded  instance  is  that  of 
Alexander,  then  Bishop  of  Cappadocia,  who  afterwards 
succeeded  Narcissus  at  Jerusalem ;  then  came  a  lady, 
mentioned  by  Cyprian  (Ep.  75).  Both  of  these  were 
in  the  beginning  of  the  third  century.  Eusebius,  vnit- 
ing  about  one  hundred  years  later,  mentions  the  num- 
ber of  pious  folk  who  came  to  see  with  their  own  eyes 
the  fulfilment  of  prophecy,  and  to  pray  at  the  birth- 
place of  their  Saviour  in  the  cave  at'  Bethlehem, 
and  at  the  spot  on  the  Mount  of  Olives  whence  lie 
ascended  to  heaven.  Still  the  Christian  Church  only 
existed  by  sufferance  at  Jerusalem,  and  was  at  times 
exposed  to  insult  and  persecution.  This  sufficiently 
accounts  for  the  fact  that  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  or 
the  supposed  site  of  it,  marked  by  the  shrine  of 
Venus,  was  never  purified  and  made  an  object  of  pil- 
grimage. 

Immediately  after  the  conversion  of  Constantine, 
however,  when  the  Christians  became  more  powerful 
than  the  Pagans,  this  was  done.     Thus  we  see  that  the 


122         XOTES  FOR  A  IIlSTOIi}'  OF  JERUSALEM. 

traditional  site  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  dates  from  the 
time  of  Hadrian,  a.d,  130.  This  will  be  further  men- 
tioned in  its  proper  place. 

The  number  of  pilgrims  now  greatly  increased, 
especially  when  the  fashion  was  set  by  Helena,  mother 
of  the  Emperor.  This  lady  seems  to  have  stayed  some 
months  in  the  country,  and  during  this  time  built 
churches  at  Bethlehem  and  the  Mount  of  Olives,  and 
began  that  over  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  Her  great  trdu- 
vaille,  however,  was  the  True  Cross.  About  this  there 
is  considerable  difficulty.  Eusebius  only  mentions  Con- 
stantino as  tlie  builder  of  the  Church  of  the  Sepulchre. 
As,  however,  the  funds  came  from  the  Emperor,  and 
the  building  was  not  finished  till  some  six  years  after 
Helena's  death,  this  panegyi'ist  doubtless  thought  it 
safe  to  ascribe  the  whole  glory  to  his  patron.  The 
Bordeaux  pilgrim,  too,  who  ascribes  all  the  work  to 
Constantine,  probably  heard  his  name  as  the  chief 
mover  in  tlie  business,  and  the  source  whence  the 
necessary  funds  were  drawn.  In  the  next  century, 
however,  the  finding  of  the  cross  is  unanimously  as- 
cribed to  Helena.  That  a  cross  was  'found  or  in- 
vented' seems  clear.  Cyril,  Bishop  of  Jerusalem,  only 
twenty  years  after  tlie  event,  speaks  of  it ;  and  Jerome, 
some  fifty  years  later,  says  that  Sta.  Paula  prostrated 
herself  before  it  in  adoration.  Tlie  so-called  (not  too 
happily)    '  Invciilion    of   the    Cross '   is   said    to  have 


NOTES  FOR  A    lIISTOJiV   OF  JKliiSALEM.  1J;{ 

been  brought  about  by  a  dream  or  supernatural  inti- 
mation to  Helena  where  to  dig  for  it.  The  Empress 
dug  and  found  not  one  but  three  ;  the  legend,  too, 
written  by  Pilate,  was  there,  but  separated  from  the 
cross  to  which  it  had  been  attached.  A  test  was  soon 
found  to  prove  which  was  the  True  Cross.  A  lady  of 
Jerusalem  lay  dying ;  one  cross  was  brought  to  her 
bedside,  presumably  from  its  effect  that  of  the  impeni- 
tent thief;  she  screamed  in  pious  horror  and  fainted 
away.  The  second  produced  no  bad  effect,  but  the 
third  was  incontestably  proved  the  True  Cross  by  the 
fact  that  she  was  immediately  restored  to  health  by 
the  near  approach  of  it. 

Later  on,  many  more  churches  were  ascribed  to 
the  liberality  of  Helena,  and  her  good  deeds  were 
magnified,  till  now  we  find  that  nearly  eveiy  ancient 
church  is  said  by  monastic  tradition  to  have  been 
founded  by  her.  The  description  of  the  cliurch  of 
the  Sepulchre  as  given  by  Euscbius  will  be  found  in 
another  place. 

About  A.D.  350  monastic  institutions  were  trans- 
planted by  Hilaiion  from  Egypt  into  Palestine  and 
Syria,  where  they  soon  took  root  and  flourished.  The 
orders  seem  to  have  always  been  austere  and  ascetic,  as 
is  still  the  case  with  the  Greek  monasteries  of  St.  Catlia- 
rine  at  Sinai  and  Mar  Saba  near  the  Dead  Sea.  The 
practice  of  acquiring  broad  lands  and  the  indulgence 


124         NOTES  FOR  A   HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM. 

in  the  good  tilings  of  this  Hfe,  seems  not  to  have  been 
introduced  till  several  centuries  later. 

Li  A.D.  3G2  the  Jews,  who  had  continued  in  force 
throughout  Galilee,  obtained  leave  fi'om  Julian  the 
Ajiostate  to  rebuild  their  temple  at  Jerusalem,  and 
began  to  do  so.  Then,  according  to  Ammianus  Mar- 
cellinus,  globes  of  fire  burst  out  from  the  foundations 
and  rendered  the  prosecution  of  the  work  impossible. 
Some  have  attributed  those  demonstrations  to  a  divine 
manifestation,  others  to  fire-damp,  and  others,  again,  to 
the  machinations  of  the  Christians.  Whatever  was  the 
cause,  there  seems  no  reason  to  doubt  the  fact  that 
the  work  was  stopped  in  the  way  described. 

In  A.D.  384  Jerome  went  to  Bethlehem,  where  he 
remained  till  his  death  in  420.  His  writings  show 
how  the  number  of  monks  had  increased  since  their 
introduction ;  he  tells  us,  too,  of  the  monastery  and  three 
nunneries  built  by  Paula  at  Bethlehem.  From  this 
point  we  may  date  the  great  growth  of  monkish  tradi- 
tion which  has  localised  every  event  recorded  in  the 
Bible,  even  to  the  house  of  the  parabolic  Lazarus  and 
Dives.  Chrysostom  tells  us  that  many  even  went 
into  Arabia  to  visit  the  dunghill  of  patient  Job  and  to 
kiss  the  ground  where  he  had  trod.  Many  holy  men 
now  sainted  in  the  calendar  are  recorded  to  have  made 
as  many  as  three  pilgrimages  to  Palestine  about  this 
period.     Like  Iloly  Cities  of  all  ages,  Jerusalem  now 


NOTES  FOIi  A   HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM.         li?', 

began  to  be  a  place  of  corruption  and  licentiousness  ; 
the  act  of  pilgrimage  was  looked  upon  as  the  means  of 
salvation,  as  it  still  is  at  the  present  day  by  the  more 
ignorant  of  the  Eussian  and  other  Eastern  Christians. 
This  superstition  is  much  animadverted  on  by  Jerome, 
Gregory  of  Nyssa,  and  other  contemporary  fathers  of 
the  Church. 

The  history  of  Jerusalem  now  becomes  simply 
ecclesiastical.  The  importance  of  the  Holy  City  as 
the  goal  of  pilgrimage  made  its  bishops  impatient  of 
the  control  exercised  by  the  Metropolitan  of  Cajsarea 
and  desirous  of  its  takiiJi:^  hio;her  rank  as  the  oriLnnal 
seat  of  the  primitive  Church.  The  bishops  Cyril  and 
John  contended  ineffectually  for  independence.  Pray- 
tus,  the  next  in  succession,  remained  inactive,  but 
Juvenal  who  followed  him  obtained  an  order  from  tlie 
Council  of  Chalcedon,  a.d.  451-453,  that  Jerusalem 
should  not  only  rank  above  Caisarea,  but  ;>hould  also 
be  uncontrolled  by  Antioch  being  raised  into  an  in- 
dependent Patriarchate  having  jurisdiction  over  tlie 
Three  Palestines. 

The  rehgious  discussions  whicli  raised  such  bitter 
enmities  amongst  the  different  sections  of  the  Eastern 
Church  had  energetic  and  even  violent  partisans  in 
Palestine.  In  the  great  struggle  of  the  Arian  con- 
troversy Cyril  was  more  than  once  deposed  from  his 
bishopric   at   Jerusalem.     Not  many  years  after  this 


12(i  XOTFs   FOU   A    HISTOliV   OF  JERUSALEM. 

Pelagius  himself  appeared  on  the  scene  at  two  stormy 
councils  held  in  Jerusalem  and  Lydda,  of  that  turbu- 
lent type  which  seems  to  have  distinguished  the  Church 
militant  in  the  early  middle  ages.  Juvenal,  wdio  ob- 
tained his  Patriarchate  at  Jerusalem  by  decree  of  the 
Council  of  Chalcedon,  was  soon  afterwards  deposed  by 
Theodosius,  a  fanatical  monk  who  raised  the  Mono- 
physite  party  in  opposition  to  the  doctrine  promulgated 
by  that  council,  declaring  the  separate  existence  of  a 
human  and  divine  nature  in  Christ.  By  the  help  of 
Eudocia,  widow  of  Theodosius  II.,  this  monk  was 
elected  to  the  Patriarchate ;  he  deposed  the  orthodox 
clergy,  even  murdering  some  of  them,  and  filled  their 
places  with  the  riflf-rafT  of  his  followers.  The  triumph 
of  Theodosius  did  not  last  long,  for  the  Emperor  Mar- 
cian  took  the  side  of  the  deposed  Patriarch  and  rein- 
stated him,  not,  however,  without  a  severe  struggle, 
for  both  parties  fought  as  only  religious  fanatics  can 
fight. 

At  the  end  of  the  fifth  century  tlio  ]\Iono})hysito 
party  was  much  strengthened  by  the  fact  that  the 
Emperor  Anastasius  himself  held  their  views.  Flavia- 
nus,  the  Patriarch  of  Antioch,  was  deposed,  and  Severus 
of  the  heretical  party  succeeded  him.  In  512  a.d. 
tliis  usurper  sent  to  Elias,  then  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem, 
but  he,  assisted  by  St.  Saba — whose  name  is  still  at- 
taclied  to  the  monastery  \n  tlie  valley  of  the  Kedron 


NOTES  FOL'   A    HlsTOltY   OF  .TFJUsALFM.  U: 

near  the  Dead  Sea — anathematised  Sevcnis  imd  all 
his  heretical  followers.  At  Mast  the  arm  of  the  llcsh 
prevailed,  and  Olympiiis,  the  mihtary  commander  in 
Palestine,  banished  Ellas  by  order  of  tlie  Emperor  to 
Ailah,  where  he  died,  a.d.  518.  His  successor,  Jolm 
in.,  though  appointed  by  the  heretical  party,  took  no 
action  against  the  orthodox  ;  his  neutrality  seems  to 
have  prevented  the  party  dissensions  from  breaking  out 
into  actual  violence.  The  accession  of  Justin  I.  in 
A.D.  518,  and  Justuiian  in  527,  both  severely  orthodox, 
was  looked  upon  as  a  great  triumph  by  St.  Saba  and 
his  party.  This  venerable  saint  died  in  a.d.  532,  aged 
ninety-four.  The  next  thirteen  years  were  occupied  by 
the  disputes  of  his  followers,  those  at  tlie  monastery 
named  after  him  remaining  orthodox,  wJiile  those  at 
the  laura  of  Tekoa  adopted  tlie  lieretical  dogmas  of 
Origen.  These  doctrines  were  anatliematised  by  a 
general  council  of  the  Three  Palestines  held  at  Jerusa- 
lem in  536.  After  nine  years'  more  fighting  and  con- 
troversy the  Oiigeuists  were  finally  put  down  by  tlie 
military. 

The  church-building  mania  of  Justinian  has  left 
its  mark  at  Jerusalem  in  the  church  he  built  in  honour 
of  the  Virgin,  part  of  which  is  now  incorporated  in 
the  mosque  El  Aksa.  He  also  built  a  hospice  for 
pilgrims  and  several  monasteries  in  and  near  Jerusalem. 
About  the  end  of  the  sixth  century  another  ho.spice 


128         NOTES  FOn  A   HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM. 

was  erected  by  Gregory  the  Great.  Meantime  build- 
ings for  the  accommodation  of  pilgrims  were  erected 
throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  civihsed  Europe. 
The  number  of  these  pious  folk  seems  to  have  been 
steadily  on  the  increase,  especially  as  the  trade  in  relics 
was  now  becoming  most  profitable.  Old  rags,  bones, 
and  hair,  authenticated  by  the  suflSciently  astute  East- 
ern clergy  as  having  been  part  of  some  saint  or  mar- 
tyr, fetched  fobulous  prices.  Some  speculators  even 
went  so  far  as  to  make  and  sell  genuine  relics  of  their 
Saviour ;  while  the  miraculous  power  of  the  True  Cross 
in  reproducing  itself,  so  that  however  much  was  cut  off 
it  the  bulk  never  diminished,  enabled  the  clergy  to  sell 
sufficient  of  its  wood  to  have  built  a  large  galley. 
This  trade  still  continues,  though  the  scarcity  of  relics 
has  diverted  it  into  the  channel  of  ornamental  rosaries, 
crosses,  &c.,  which  form  the  staple  industry  of  the 
Bethlehem  peasants. 

For  the  last  three  centuries  the  foreign  influence 
brought  to  bear  on  Jerusalem  and  its  society  had  been 
Western  and  civilised,  but  now  she  fell  under  the  blight- 
ing shadow  of  barbaric  hordes  from  Persia  and  Arabia. 
In  the  year  614  a.d.  Chosroes  II.,  Shah  of  Persia, 
aided  by  the  Jews  of  Galilee,  took  the  city  and  massa- 
cred most  of  tlic  Christians,  especially  those  devoted 
to  a  religious  life.  The  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre 
was  l)i:i'iit  and  tlie  True  Cross  cari'ied  off;  the  Patriarch 


NOTES  FOR   A    HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM.  l'.>-.> 

Zacharias  and  many  of  the  people  were  taken  as  slaves. 
Modestus  was  soon  afterwards  appointed  as  locum 
tenens  during  the  Patriarch's  captivity,  and  though 
Jerusalem  was  still  under  Persian  rule  he  was  not 
hindered  in  rebuilding  the  churches,  for  which  pur- 
pose money  was  supplied  by  John  Eleemon,  Patriarch 
of  Alexandria.  In  a.d.  628  Siroes  murdered  his 
father  Chosroes  and  subsequently  made  peace  with  the 
Emperor  Heraclius.  The  Patriarch,  the  captives,  and 
the  True  Cross  were  all  returned,  and  after  the  Emperor 
had  made  his  triumphal  entry  at  Constantinople  he 
returned  to  Jerusalem,  and,  marching  barefooted  at  the 
head  of  his  soldiers,  carried  the  cross  on  liis  back  and 
deposited  it  in  the  church.  Five  years  later,  however, 
when  retreating  before  the  victorious  Moslems,  he 
carried  the  precious  relic  with  him  to  Constantinople. 

In  G37  A.D.  the  city  of  Jerusalem  was  given  up  by 
the  Christians  to  the  Moslem  army  under  the  Klialif 
'Omar,  on  condition  that  their  lives,  property,  and 
religion  should  be  respected.  This  was  faithfully  per- 
formed, and  Christian  pilgrims  were  allowed  to  come 
and  go  unhindered.  The  traffic  of  these  pilgrims  now 
became  extended,  for  we  learn  from  Arculphus  (a.d. 
697}  that  a  great  annual  fair  was  held  in  Jenisalem  on 
September  15,  to  which  both  Moslems  and  Christians 
came  from  all  parts  of  the  world  to  better  at  the  same 
time  their  temporal  and  spiritual  fortunes. 

K 


130         NOT£S  FOR  A  HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM. 

In  the  middle  of  the  eighth  century  the  power  of 
the  Abasside  Khahfs  was  taken  from  them  by  the 
Ommiades,  who  estabhshed  the  seat  of  their  govern- 
ment at  Baghdad.  Under  this  new  dynasty  the 
Christians  seem  to  have  suffered  certain  hardships,  but 
the  pilgrims  were  allowed  to  come  and  go  without  let 
or  hindrance.  The  friendship  of  Charlemagne  with 
Hariin-el-Eashid  (a.d.  786-809)  and  the  interest  he 
took  in  his  co-religionists  bettered  their  situation  in 
Jerusalem  ;  the  alms  he  sent  them  were  continued  by 
his  son  and  grandson.  On  the  death  of  Hariin-el- 
Eashid  internal  dissensions  arose  between  the  Moslems, 
and  the  Christians  suffered  at  the  hands  of  both  par- 
ties. The  convent  of  Mar  Saba  was  for  the  third  time 
plundered  and  the  inmates  massacred  (a.d.  810). 

The  most  remarkable  fact  chronicled  during  the 
rest  of  the  century  is  the  Greek  Holy  Fire,  which  is  first 
mentioned  vaguely  by  Eusebius  (fourth  century),  and 
definitely  by  Bernhard  the  monk  (about  870  a.d.). 

Under  El  Mannii,  the  son  of  Hariin-el-Rashid,  the 
Christians  were  well  treated  and  advanced  to  posts  of 
honour,  but  after  his  death  they  suffered  much.  To- 
wards the  end  of  the  tenth  century  the  merchants  of 
Amalfi  obtained  permission  from  the  Fatemite  Khahf 
of  I^ypt  to  erect  a  building  in  Jerusalem.  This  at 
first  consisted  of  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  de  Latina 
and   the  attached   monastery ;    then    a   nunnery  was 


NOTES  FOR  A    inSTORY  OF  JERUSALEM.         l.il 

added,  and  a  hospice  dedicated  to  St.  John  Elecmon, 
whence  afterwards  sprang  the  well-known  order  of 
Knights  Hospitallers,  or  Knights  of  St.  John  of 
Jerusalem, 

In  the  year  996,  Hdkem  bi  'Amr  Ikah,  a  mad  and 
blasphemous  despot — founder  of  the  Druze  sect — came 
to  the  throne  in  Cairo.     His  mother  was  a  Christian, 
and  sister  to  Orestes,  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem.     Accord- 
ing to  William  of  Tyre,  it  was  to  refute  the  assertion 
of  some  of  his  enemies  that  he  favoiu-ed  the  Clu-istians 
too  much  that  this  tyrant  began  a  cruel  and  deliberate 
system  of  persecution  against  them.    His  uncle  was  put 
to  death,  the  church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  razed  to 
the  ground,  and  frightful  tortures  inthcted  on  men  and 
women  in  Jerusalem  and  Cairo.     The  Jews  were  ac- 
credited in  Europe  with  being  the  instigators  of  these 
enormities,  and  suffered  accordingly.  Towards  the  end 
of  his  hfe  Hakem  gave  permission  to  tlie  Christians  to 
rebuild   their  churches,  and  allowed   those  who  haJ 
apostatised  to  return  to  their  old  religion.     It  was  not, 
however,  till  (a.d.  1048)  twenty  years  after  his  death 
that  the  rebuilding  of  the  church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre 
was  finished ;  and  then  only  a  modest  chapel  stood  in 
the  place  of  the  former  fine  Basilica. 

Pilgrimages  now  became  so  fashionable,  and  sucli 
numbers  of  lords  and  ladies,  nobles  and  wealthy 
burghers,  sleek  churchmen,  as  well  as  men  of  lower 

K  2 


132         KOTUS  FOR  A  HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM. 

rank,  began  to  flock  to  Jerusalem,  tliat  the  Moslems 
determined  to  turn  this  enthusiasm  to  account  and 
allowed  none  to  enter  the  city  till  the  tax  of  a  piece 
of  gold  had  been  paid.  In  1035  Eobert  of  Normandy 
made  his  pilgrimage,  and  won  the  hearts  of  both 
Christians  and  Moslems  by  his  piety  and  generosity. 
The  Hungarians  being  at  this  time  converted  to  Chris- 
tianity, many  Germans  took  advantage  of  this  new  route 
being  opened  to  the  East.  In  the  year  1054  Bishop 
Lietbert,  of  Cambray,  attempted  to  reach  Jerusalem 
with  a  large  concourse  of  pilgrims,  but  failed  to  do  so. 
Ten  years  later  several  German  bishops,  with  7000 
pilgrims,  managed  to  reach  the  Holy  City,  but  only 
2000  of  their  followers  lived  to  reach  their  homes. 

About  the  years  1065-70  a.d.,  the  Tm'koman  To- 
grul  Beg  dethroned  the  Abasside  Khalif  of  Baglidad, 
and  seized  his  kingdom  ;  this  usurper  was  soon  suc- 
ceeded by  his  son  Melek  Shah.  In  1077  his  general, 
Atsiz,  pillaged  Jerusalem  on  his  return  from  an  unsuc- 
cessful attack  upon  Egypt.  Syria  was  then  given  by 
Melek  Shah  to  his  brother  Tatash,  who  appointed 
Ortok  as  Emir  of  Jerusalem  in  1084  ;  this  position  he 
held  for  seven  years,  and  then  the  government  of  the 
city  passed  into  the  hands  of  his  two  sons.  Under  the 
rule  of  these  barbarous  Turkomans,  the  Christians  suf- 
fered much  ill-treatment,  and  were  exposed  to  many 
indignities.    Their  churches  were  desecrated,  their  ser- 


A'OmS  FOR  A  HISTORY  OF  JERV.'sALEM.         |.n.{ 

vices  interrupted,  the  priests  were  reviled  and  mal- 
treated, and  the  Patriarch  was  several  times  imprisoned 
for  the  sake  of  obtaining  a  ransom.     The  tax  upon  the 
pilgrims  was  very  rigidly  enforced,  and  many  wlio  had 
not  the  requisite  sum  died  of  exposiu-e  and  starvation  at 
the  gates  of  the  city.    Private  charity,  and  that  afforded 
by  the  various  hospices,  could  do  but  little  to  help  tlie 
vast  numbers  who,  despite  all  difficulties,  kept  throng- 
ing to  the  Holy  City.     Then,  in  a.d.  1093-4,  Peter 
the  Hermit  came  as  a  pilgrim  ;   tliis  man  was  of  good 
family,  and  originally  a  soldier,  till  a  reUgious  mania 
seized  him  and  he  became  a  hermit ;   the  monotony  of 
this  life  soon  became  too  much   for  his  restless,  ener- 
getic spuit,  and  he  started  for  Jerusalem.     Here  his 
spirit  was  stirred  by  the  way  in  which  his  brethren 
were  treated  by  the  infidel  Turks ;  then  came  delusions 
which   wrought    him   into   frenzy,   mysterious   voices 
urged  him  on,  wondrous  dreams  encouraged  him,  and 
obtaining  letters  from  the  aged  Patriarch  Simeon,  ac- 
crediting him  as  his  delegate,  Peter  left  Jerusalem, 
burning  to  preach  the  necessity  of  wresting  the  Sacred 
City  from  infidel  hands.     Thus  began  the  first  crusade. 
On  arriving  at  Kome,  Pope  Urban  H.  eagerly  sup- 
ported him,  and  then  the  monk  began  his  mission  in 
Italy  and  France.   The  fieiy  and  impassioned  eloquence 
of  the  zealot  soon  stirred  up  a  wild  and  headlong  enthu- 
siasm throughout   all  Christendom.     Peter  tlic  Hcrniil 


134         NOTHS  FOR  A   HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM. 

himself  assumed  the  leadership  of  the  first  band  ;  this 
was  numerous,  but  totally  without  discipline,  transport, 
or  commissariat,  and  very  shortly  after  crossing  the  Bos- 
phorus  was  utterly  destroyed  by  the  Turks.  From 
tliis  time  tlie  marvellous  influence  of  the  monk  disap- 
peared, and,  excluded  from  the  councils  of  the  army 
which  followed  his  rabble-rout,  he  soon  retired  to 
France,  where  he  died,  some  fifteen  or  twenty  years 
later,  the  head  of  a  rehgious  house.  The  army  which 
followed  was  better  organised  and  armed,  and  in  1097 
succeeded  in  reaching  Antioch,  which  was  captured  by 
treachery  after  a  nine  months'  siege.  The  defeat  of  a 
large  Turkish  army  then  opened  the  way  to  Jerusalem, 
but  internal  dissensions  delayed  their  march  for  four 
months, 

Jerusalem,  meanwhile,  had  been  taken  from  the 
Turkomans  by  Afdal,  vizier  of  the  Khalif  El-Mustali 
of  Cairo,  and  was  governed  by  the  Emir  Iftikar-el- 
Dawleh,  from  whom  it  was  taken  by  storm  by  the 
Crusaders  on  July  15,  1099.  Most  of  the  Moslems 
who  took  refuge  m  the  Temple  Area  were  killed ;  the 
number  is  given  by  Christian  writers  at  more  than 
10,000,  while  native  historians  put  it  at  70,000.  Great 
excesses  were  committed,  and  the  whole  town  was  pil- 
laged. As  soon  as  order  was  restored  and  the  city 
cleansed  from  slaughter,  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  was 
elected  lung  of  Jerusalem,  and  by  this  title  he  is  always 


NOTES  FOR  A   HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM.         136 

known,  though  he  himself  refused  regal  mnk,  and 
chose  the  title  of  Baron  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  His 
first  care  was  to  organise  various  rehgious  bodies  to 
attend  to  the  different  churches  ;  amongst  others,  a 
regidar  chapter  of  canons  was  appointed  for  the  Kub- 
bet-el-Sakhrah  (Dome  of  the  Kock  or  Mosque  of  Omar, 
as  it  is  sometimes  called),  called  by  the  historians  of 
the  period  Templum  domini.  The  mosque  El  Aksa 
was  called  Templum  Solomonis,  sometimes,  too,  the 
Porch  or  Palace  of  Solomon.  In  tlie  reign  of  Bald- 
win n.  this  building  was  assigned  to  a  body  of  knightd, 
who  in  consequence  received  the  name  of  Knights 
Templars  (1118  a.d.),  and  soon  grew  to  immense  wealtli 
and  power. 

Having  arranged  religious  matters,  Godfrey  began 
a  code  of  laws,  which,  when  finished  in  the  fourteenth 
century,  were  called  '  Les  Assises  de  Jerusalem.'  This 
was  a  code  of  purely  feudal  laws,  adapted  wlien  neces- 
sary to  the  country  to  which  it  was  transplanted. 

The  first  victory  obtained  by  the  King  was  over  the 
renegade  Armenian  Afdal — previously  mentioned  as 
having  taken  Jerusalem  on  behalf  of  his  master,  tlie 
Egyptian  Khalif— and  the  Egyptian  troops  in  the  mari- 
time plain  between  Eamleh  and  Gaza.  The  defeat  of 
the  infidels  was  complete,  and  most  of  the  pilgrims 
began  to  think  of  returning  to  Europe.  After  a  thanks- 
giving service  at  Jerusalem  they  did  so,  with  the  ex- 


13G         XOTE:s  for  A   HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM. 

ception  of  300  knights  and  2,000  soldiers,  who  elected 
to  stand  by  their  King.  In  the  end  of  the  year  1099, 
Dagobert,  Archbishop  of  Pisa,  with  20,000  pilgrims, 
arrived  at  Jerusalem,  after  passing  through  many 
dangers.  Dagobert  was  then  chosen  Patriarch  in  place 
of  Arnold,  who  had  never  been  legally  elected. 

The  untimely  death  of  Godfrey,  on  July  18,  1100, 
was  a  great  loss  to  Jerusalem,  for  his  wise  government 
would  doubtless  have  estabhshed  the  kingdom  on  a 
secure  basis.  At  this  time  the  great  armies  under 
Hugh  de  Vermandois,  Stephen  de  Blois,  William  of 
Nevers,  the  Bishop  of  Milan,  and  the  Germans  Conrad 
and  Wolf,  accompanied  by  many  ladies  of  high  rank, 
were  utterly  destroyed  by  the  Turks  near  Ancyra  and 
on  the  river  Halys.  Thus  ended  the  first  and  greatest 
crusading  movement. 

Godfrey  was  succeeded  by  Baldwin,  Lord  of 
Edessa,  a  well-educated  resolute  man,  who  soon  made 
his  name  a  terror  to  all  the  surrounding  infidels.  Un- 
like his  predecessor,  he  opposed  priestcraft  whenever 
it  suited  his  purpose  to  do  so,  and  quarrelled  wnth 
Dagobert  the  Patriarch,  who  at  last  left  the  city  in  a 
rage,  and  never  returned.  His  place  was  first  filled 
by  Ebremer,  and  then  by  Arnold,  who  died  after  a 
couple  of  years  in  ofiice.  Almost  yearly  forays  were 
made  by  the  Egyptians  into  the  maritime  plain,  but 
with  one  or  two  exceptions  they  were  easily  repulsed. 


NOTES  FOR  A   HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM.         137 

A  league  with  the  Genoese  enabled  Baldwin  to  con- 
quer Cgesarea,  Acre,  and  Tripoli.  Beyrout  and  Sidon 
next  fell ;  the  latter  by  help  of  a  Norwegian  contin- 
gent. In  1112  the  Saracens  gained  some  slight  suc- 
cesses near  Tiberias  and  Edessa.  In  the  followinir 
year  Baldwin  made  an  expedition  to  Moab,  Petra,  and 
as  far  as  the  borders  of  Egypt,  near  Suez.  Ilere  he 
was  taken  ill  and  died  near  El  Arish.  His  body  was 
embalmed  by  his  cook,  and  taken  to  Jerusalem  for 
burial.  He  had  no  children,  though  tlmce  married, 
1.  to  an  Englishwoman,  who  died  before  reaching 
Palestine;  2.  to  an  Armenian  princess,  whom  he 
divorced  for  misconduct;  3.  to  Adelaide,  widow  (jf 
Eoger  of  Sicily.  This  lady  he  sent  back  after  three 
years,  owing  to  rehgious  scruples  which  then  occurred 
to  his  mind  with  reference  to  his  divorced  wife  being 
still  alive.  Before  his  death  he  chose  Eustace,  his 
brother,  to  succeed  him.  Eustace,  however,  was  in 
France,  and  Baldwin  of  Edessa,  the  late  king's  cousin, 
was  unanimously  elected  to  succeed  him.  In  1124  ho 
was  taken  prisoner  and  confined  in  a  fortress  of  Ar- 
menia. He  was  afterwards  ransomed,  and  having 
made  a  futile  attack  on  Aleppo  returned  to  Jerusalem, 
where  he  died  in  1131,  and  was  succeeded  by  Fulke, 
Count  of  Anjou,  who  had  married  his  daughter  Milh- 
cent.  Fulke  was  much  troubled  by  quarrels  ])otli  in 
his   family  and   kiugdoni.     After   several    encounter 


138         NOTES  FOR  A    HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM. 

with  Zaughi,  the  Turkish  invader,  in  which  no  great 
advantage  was  gained  on  either  side,  he  was  killed 
near  Acre  by  a  foil  from  his  horse.  His  son,  Bald- 
win in.,  succeeded  him  at  the  age  of  thirteen,  with  his 
mother  Millicent  as  queen  regent. 

In  1147  the  second  crusade,  consisting  of  Germans 
and  French,  raised  by  the  exertions  and  preaching  of 
St.  Bernhard,  crossed   the  Bosphorus.     Of  this  vast 
band  only  a  few  thousands  ever  reached  Syria.     After 
an   attempt    to    capture   Damascus,   which    but    for 
treachery  would  have  succeeded,  the  leaders  of  the 
crusade  retired  in  disgust  to  Europe.     Baldwin  now 
had  to  maintain  a  severe  struo-o-le  mth   his  mother 
Millicent  and  her  cousin  Manasseh,  who  usurped  all 
Vjut  the  name  of  royalty.     In  1153  he  captured  Asca- 
lon,  which  had  long  been  a  thorn  in  the  side  of  the 
Latin  kingdom.     After  a  defeat  at  Safat  by  Niir-ed- 
din,  the  King  received  timely  help  from  Stephen,  Coimt 
of  Percbe,  who  arrived  with  a  few  thousand  pilgrims, 
and  succeeded  in  breaking  the  Saracen  power  for  a 
while.     In  1159  the  King  married  Theodora,  niece  of 
the  Byzantine  Emperor.     In  the  following  year  his 
mother  died,  and  he  himself  was  carried  off  by  fever 
two  years  later. 

The  next  king  was  Amaury,  brother  to  Baldwin  : 
soon  after  his  accession  he  made  a  successful  raid  on 
rdusium,  on  the  Egyptian  frontier.     He  then  made 


NOTES  FOR  A  HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM.         130 

an  alliance  against  Niir-ed-din  witli  Shawer,  vizier  of 
the  Egyptian  Khalif,  who  agreed  to  pay  the  Christians 
an  immense  sum  for  their  services.  After  an  entja^e- 
ment  with  Nur-ed-din's  general,  Shirkoh,  in  which  the 
Christians  gained  the  advantage,  Amaury  besieged 
Salah-ed-din  (the  afterwards  famous  Saladin  of  ordinary 
history)  in  Alexandria,  and  obtained  the  release  of  all 
Christian  prisoners,  and  the  promise  of  Shirkoh  to  quit 
Egypt.  He  then  returned  to  Ascalon,  whence  he  im- 
mediately went  to  Tyre  to  marry  Mary,  niece  of  the 
Emperor  of  Constantinople,  who  secretly  persuaded  liim 
to  attack  Egypt.  Eegardless  of  his  pledged  word  he 
did  so.  When  Shawer  heard  of  his  having  taken  Pelu- 
sium,  he  sent  to  offer  him  an  enormous  bribe  to  retire, 
and  at  the  same  time  sent  messengers  to  Niir-ed-din. 
Playing  with  the  King's  cupidity,  he  kept  him  in  uiac- 
tivity  till  Shirkoh  arrived  in  Egyi)t.  Amaury  then 
saw  the  trick  that  had  been  played  him,  and  retired  in 
ra^e  and  disgust  to  Jerusalem.  Shirkoh  soon  took 
Shawer's  place  and  life,  and  then  dying  was  succeeded 
by  Salah-ed-din. 

In  1169  Amaury,  helped  by  a  Greek  contingent 
from  Constantinople,  besieged  Damietta ;  after  two 
months  he  raised  the  siege,  thus  plainly  showing  his 
weakness.  Salah-ed-din  soon  began  a  series  of  smaller 
attacks.  To  procure  aid  Amaury  went  to  Constanti- 
nople, where  the  Emperor  received  him  with  great  dis- 


140         NOTES  FOR  A   lUSTORY  OF  JERUSALEM. 

tinction  and  made  him  presents,  but  failed  to  supply 
him  with  soldiers.  The  Ai'chbishop  of  Tyre,  who  had 
gone  to  Europe  on  a  similar  mission,  also  returned 
empty-handed.  At  this  time  the  King  received  an 
embassy  from  the  chief  of  the  Israaelite  sect  of  As- 
sassins, who  was  commonly  known  as  The  Old  Man 
\_shaykli]  of  the  Mountain,  offering  to  become  Christian 
with  all  his  people  if  certain  imposts  were  remitted  by 
the  Knights  Templars.  This  alliance  seems  not  at  all 
to  have  suited  the  views  of  this  ambitious  order,  who 
doubtless  aimed  at  the  sovereignty  of  Palestine  them- 
selves, not  foreseeing  that  the  Moslem  power  would 
sweep  them  all  into  the  sea,  and  they  treacherously 
murdered  the  messenger  while  he  was  travelling  under 
the  King's  protection.  In  consequence  of  this  all  nego- 
tiations were  broken  off  never  to  be  renewed. 

In  1173  or  1174  Niir-ed-din  died,  and  Amaury  laid 
siege  to  his  castle  of  Banias,  but  left  the  place  on  re- 
ceipt of  a  sum  of  money  from  Nur-ed-din's  widow  and 
retiu-ncd  to  Jerusalem,  where  he  died  aged  thirty- 
eight. 

Amaury  was  succeeded  by  liis  sun  Baldwiii,  known 
as  tlie  Leper.  He  was  crowned  at  the  age  of  thirteen, 
Milo  de  riancy  being  appointed  regent,  biit  was  soon 
murdered,  and  Raymond  took  his  place.  Salah-ed-din, 
mean  while,  liad  taken  Damascus,  assumed  the  title  of 
Sultan,  and  become  virtual  ruler  of  the  East.     After 


NOTES  FOR  A  HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM.         147 

suffering  a  defeat  at  the  hands  of  Baldwin  lie  concluded 
a  peace  with  him  which  was  kept  till  the  conduct  of 
Eeynaud  de  Chatillon,  Seigneur  of  Kerak,  who  continued 
to  plunder  at  will,  compelled  Saladiu  to  make  reprisals 
by  taking  prisoners  a  number  of  pilgrims  who  were 
shipwrecked  on  the  Egyptian  coast. 

Guy  de  Lusignan,  now  that  the  King's  disease  had 
blinded  him,  was  appointed  regent ;  he  had  married 
Sybille,  sister  of  the  King  and  widow  of  William  Long- 
sword.  Soon  afterwards  the  Barons  persuaded  the 
King  to  deprive  Guy  of  the  regency  and  to  associate 
his  nephew  Baldwin  V.,  an  infant  son  of  William 
Longsword,  with  him  on  the  throne. 

In  1186  the  King  was  freed  from  his  troubles  by 
death;  his  infant  nephew  died  on  the  following  day, 
poisoned,  it  is  said,  by  his  stepfather  Guy  de  Lusignan, 
who  next  ascended  the  throne,  with  his  mother  Sybille 
who  at  the  same  time  was  crowned  queen.  She  was 
supported  by  the  Patriarch  Heraclius  and  by  the 
Knights  Templars;  the  Barons,  however,  held  aloof. 
Eaymond  of  Tripoli  then  held  Tiberias,  and  was  espe- 
cially feared  and  hated  by  the  King,  by  whose  orders 
the  Grand  Master  of  the  Templars  marched  against  that 
place.  Raymond,  however,  had  called  in  the  Saracens, 
who  under  Saladin  defeated  the  Templars.  Then  a  re- 
concihation  took  place  between  the  King  and  him,  and 
by  his  advice  the  former  collected  his  forces  at  Safluryeli 


142         ^'OTI:S  FOR   A    HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM. 

near  Nazareth.  Here  ill  counsels  prevailed,  and  the 
doomed  army  marched  in  midsummer  on  Tiberias  over 
a  scorched  waterless  tract.  Parched  with  a  day  and 
night  of  thirst  they  fought  the  Saracens  at  Kiirn 
Hattiu,  and  were  utterly  defeated.  Eaymond  escaped 
to  Tjrre,  but  the  King  and  all  the  Christian  leaders  were 
taken  prisoners  by  Saladin.  This  battle  preluded  the 
total  fall  of  the  Christian  power  in  Palestine.  All  the 
towns  except  Tyre  and  Tripoli  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
Moslems,  and  then  came  the  siege  of  Jerusalem.  Ee- 
fusing  Saladin's  easy  terms,  the  Christians  under  Bahan 
of  Ibelin  determined  to  fight,  and  for  a  few  days  held 
the  Saracens  at  bay.  When,  however,  part  of  the  city 
walls  were  undermined  and  fell,  a  panic  seized  them, 
and  they  sent  an  offer  of  capitulation  to  Saladin.  After 
much  delay  the  Sultan  agreed  to  accept  ransom  for  the 
rich  at  fifteen  gold  byzants  a  head ;  and  for  7,000  poor 
men  (two  women  or  ten  children  being  considered 
equivalent  to  a  man)  30,000  byzants.  Besides  these 
there  still  remained  many  thousands  who  could  not 
pay.  Then  Sayf-ed-din,  the  Sultan's  brother,  set  free  a 
thousand  that  Saladin  made  over  to  him ;  the  same 
luck  attended  twelve  hundred  given  to  the  Patriarch 
and  Balian.  Then  Saladin  himself  gave  leave  to  all 
those  who  were  absolutely  without  money  to  leave  the 
city  ;  but  still  11,000  remained.  Many  of  these  were 
afterwards  set  free  by  the  'paynim  knight,'  whose  con- 


NOTES  FOR  A  HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM.         U:\ 

duct  usually  contrasted  only  too  favourably  with  tliat  of 
his  Christian  antagonists.  The  feeble  and  vicious  King 
Guy  soon  afterwards  died  in  Cyprus,  the  principality  of 
which  he  had  obtained  from  Eichard  of  England  in 
exchange  for  the  title  of  King  of  Jerusalem. 

This  fall  of  Jerusalem  in  1187  was  the  immediate 
cause  of  the  third  Crusade.  For  the  first  time  tlie 
movement  was  enthusiastically  received  in  England, 
and  Eichard  set  sail  with  a  large  force.  The  French 
king  Philip  Augustus  also  went  by  sea,  while  Frederick 
Barbarossa  of  Germany  followed  the  old  route  throiigli 
Asia  Mnor.  He  died  on  the  road,  and  of  100,000 
men  who  started  with  him  only  6,000  ever  reached 
Palestine.  QuaiTels  in  the  crusading  army  resulted  in 
the  return  of  Philip  to  France,  immediately  after  the 
captiu-e  of  Acre  from  the  Moslems.  On  Guy's  taking 
the  crown  of  Cyprus,  Conrad  of  Tyre  was  elected  King  of 
Jerusalem,  but  was  almost  immediately  afterwards  mur- 
dered, perhaps  by  order  of  Eichard,  as  there  is  some 
reason  to  believe.  Henry  of  Champagne  married  his 
widow  Isabelle,  daughter  of  King  Amaury,  and  suc- 
ceeded to  the  title.  A  peace  was  soon  afterwards  made 
between  Saladin  and  Eichard ;  the  latter  returned  to 
England,  thus  virtually  putting  an  end  to  the  Crusade. 

Saladin  died  at  Damascus  February  21,  1193,  at  the 
age  of  fifty-six,  and  at  that  time  the  whole  Cliristian 
power  was  limited  to  small  possessions  on  the  seacoast. 


144         NOTES  FOR  A    HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM. 

Henry  of  Champagne,  the  nominal  King,  had  no  inte- 
rest in  the  country  and  only  wished  for  a  quiet  life. 
He  soon  had  to  cry  '  Save  us  from  our  friends ! '  for  a 
party  of  German  Crusaders  came  over  and,  regardless 
of  truce  and  treaty,  attacked  the  Saracens,  and  war  was 
again  kindled.  Henry  was  killed  accidentally  at  Jaffa. 
His  widow  Isabelle  married  Amaury,  brother  of  Guy 
de  Lusignan,  who  thus  became  nominal  King  of  Jeru- 
salem. All  real  power  had  long  since  passed  away 
from  the  title.  Appeals  were  made  to  Europe  for  help, 
but  all  in  vain  ;  a  Crusade  indeed  started,  but  contented 
itself  with  capturing  Constantinople.  Famine  and 
earthquakes  kept  the  Moslems  from  attacking  Jerusa- 
lem. John  de  Brienne  then  married  the  daughter  or 
Isabelle  by  her  second  husband,  Conrad  de  Montfer- 
rand,  Lord  of  Tyre. 

In  the  year  1212,  certain  fanatic  monks,  declaring 
that  the  former  Crusades  had  failed  on  account  of  the 
vices  of  those  who  took  part  in  them,  went  through 
Europe  and  inveigled  some  50,000  children  of  both 
sexes  by  promise  of  manifold  miracles  to  undertake  a 
Crusade.  One  party  of  Germans  went  towards  Italy, 
where  they  found  out  their  mistake,  and  the  few  that 
survived  retui'ned  to  their  homes;  the  other  party 
sailed  from  Marseilles  in  the  ships  of  two  philanthropic 
merchants,  who  gave  them  a  free  passage  to  Alexan- 
dria— and  there  sold  them. 


NOTES  FOR  A    HISTOnY  OF  JEIiVSALEM.         ]4o 

In  1217  a  Crusade  landed  at  Acre  under  Andrew 
King  of  Hungary,  but  having  marched  to  the  Jordan 
and  been  defeated  at  Tabor,  they  retired  to  Egypt  where 
they  finally  had  to  surrender  in  great  misery.     Twelve 
years  later  the  Emperor  Frederick  XL,  who  had  been 
twice  excommunicated   by  the   Pope,  came   to   Acre 
where    he    married    Yolande,   daughter   of    John   de 
Brienne,  and   was   elected   King   of    Jerusalem.     He 
then  made  a  treaty  for  ten  years  with  El  ]\Ielek-el- 
Kamil  to  ^e  effect  that  the  Christians  were  to  have 
Jerusalem  with  the  exception  of  the  Mosque  of  Omar. 
This,  however,  did  not  suit  the  views  of  the  Church,  who 
would  have  nothing  to  do  with  the  treaty  because  the 
maker  of  it,  by  whose  means  the  Holy  Sepulchre  was 
restored   to   the   Christians,  was  under  tlio   ban   and 
curse  of  the   Pope.     In    1237  another  Crusade  was 
attempted,  but  proved  a  fiasco.     Two  years  later,  at 
the  expiration  of  the  truce,  the  Saracens  retook  Jeru- 
salem.    In  1243  it  was  unreservedly  given  over  to  the 
Christians,  who  immediately  rebuilt  tlie  walls.     In  the 
following    year   the  Kharezmian   hordes   overran  the 
country  by  permission  of  the  Sultan  of  Egypt ;  they 
then  defeated  the  alhed  forces  of  Christians  and  Mos- 
lems on  the  maritime  plain,  but  were  in  turn  extermi- 
nated by  their  quondam  friend  the  Cairene  Sultan.    In 
1250  St.  Louis  arrived   at  Acre  after   his  attack  on 
Egypt,  and  four  years  later,  after  rebuilding  the  fortifica- 

L 


146         NOTES  FOR  A  HISTORY   OF  JERUSALEM. 

tions  of  Jaffa  and  Caesarea,  returned  home.  Then  all 
hope  was  lost  of  ever  maintaining  the  Christian  power 
in  Palestine.  Complete  indifference  on  the  subject  was 
shown  throughout  Europe,  which  was  but  Httle  dis- 
turbed when  the  news  of  the  fall  of  Acre,  the  last 
town  held  by  the  Christians,  arrived. 

The  history  of  the  town  from  the  fourteenth  to  the 
nineteenth  centuries  can  only  be  gathered  from  inci- 
dental notices  of  travellers,  such  as  Sir  John  Mande- 
ville,  and  Bertrandon  de  la  Eoquiere,  who  followed 
him  a  century  later.  By  him  we  are  told  that  the 
Christians  were  much  despised  and  insulted  by  the 
Moslems.  Li  a.ii.  948  or  a.d.  1542,  the  walls  of 
Jerusalem  as  they  now  stand  were  built  by  the  Sultan 
Sulayman ;  this  may  be  learnt  by  reading  the  inscrip- 
tion over  the  Bab-el-Khahl  (usually  called  by  Euro- 
peans Jaffa  Gate).  Belon,  who  visited  the  place  in 
1547,  expressly  mentions  the  fact  that  they  had  lately 
been  rebuilt. 

The  notices  of  later  travellers  are  chiefly  confined 
to  religious  and  archaeological  questions,  and  we  can 
Iciirn  nothing  of  the  status  of  Christian,  Moslem,  or 
Jew. 

In  A.D.  1832  Jerusalem  yielded  to  Mohammed  'Ali 
Pacha  of  Egypt  without  a  struggle.  In  1834  the 
felluhin,  taking  advantage  of  general  disturbances 
throughout  the  country,  seized  the  city,  making  their 


NOTHS  FOR   A   HISTORY  OF  JERUSALEM.         147 

entrance  by  a  drain  near  the  Bab-el-Magharibeli . 
Thinking  discretion,  however,  better  than  valour,  they 
promptly  gave  up  the  city  on  the  approach  of  Ibrahim 
Pacha,  whose  name  is  still  held  in  awe  from  Sinai  to 
Aleppo. 

Since  the  Crimean  War,  Christians  under  the  eyes 
of  European  consuls  at  Jerusalem  have  had  no  reason 
to  complain.  From  the  same  period  dates  the  per- 
mission of  European  representatives  to  hoist  their  flags 
in  the  Holy  City. 


L  2 


NOTES  FOR  TEAVELLEES  IN  PALl^TIXE. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  proposed  work  was  to  bo  one  of  collaboration. 
Drake's  own  share  was  to  be  especially  the  Holj'  City. — En. 

With  the  great  facilities  for  travel  wliich  no\v-a-days 
exist,  many  tourists  are  enabled  to  pay  a  short  visit  to 
Palestine.  A  limited  time  frequently  restricts  their 
trip  to  Jerusalem  and  the  immediate  neighbourhood. 
To  provide  for  a  want  long  felt  by  travellers  who  were 
unwilling  to  encumber  themselves  with  a  two-volumed 
Guide  Book,  only  a  small  part  of  which  would  ever  be 
of  service  to  them,  the  present  authors  determined 
upon  writing  this  little  volume.  Their  aim  will  be 
to  give  a  general  account  of  the  City,  both  ancient  and 
modern,  in  as  concise  a  manner  as  possible.  Tlie 
latest  discoveries  of  the  Palestine  Exploration  Fund 
show  that,  though  mucli  has  been  done  by  .tliat 
Society,  much  more  still  remains  to  be  done.  These 
discoveries  liave  as  much  as  possible  been  arranged 
and  the  inferences  to  be  drawn  from  them  pointed  out. 
Though  agreeing  on  most  points  neither  of  the 
authors  in  any  way  accepts  responsibility  for  the  opi- 
nions and  theories  of  (lie  otlier.     Till  tlicory  lins  been 


150         NOTES  FOR    TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE. 

set  aside  by  facts-r-which  can  only  be  reached  by 
further  explorations — it  is  well  nigh  impossible  that 
any  two  persons  can  agree  fully  on  all  points.  The 
more  carefully  the  subject  has  been  studied  the  plainer 
does  this  appear.  Still  when  a  fact  has  been  dis- 
covered, statements  of  old  writers,  before  apparently 
vague  or  even  contradictory,  become  intelhgible. 

The  traveller  starting  for  Palestine  from  Alexandria 
will  be  able  to  make  his  choice  of  French,  Austrian,  or 
Eussian  steamers.  The  departures  of  all  these  are  fort- 
nightly, but  as  changes  are  not  unfrequently  made, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  make  inquiries  at  Alexandria, 
where  all  information  on  the  subject  is  easily  obtained. 

The  landing  at  Jaffa  is  during  the  winter  months 
often  difficult  and  sometimes  impossible.  There  is  no 
harbour,  and  the  steamers  are  obliged  to  lie  out  in  the 
open  roadstead.  The  small  shore-boats  are  sheltered 
beneath  the  walls  of  the  town  by  a  ridge  of  rocks  run- 
ning parallel  to  the  coast,  and  about  100  yards  distant. 
This  httle  harbour  is  entered  by  two  narrow  gaps  ;  one 
to  the  north  is  some  thirty  yards,  and  that  to  the  west 
little  more  than  as  many  feet  in  width.  Thus  it  will 
be  seen  that  a  heavy  swell  renders  it  impossible  for 
boats  to  put  out. 

Supposing  the  traveller  to  have  been  safely  landed, 
an  operation  during  which  he  will  have  undergone 
treatment  much  similar   to   that  experienced  by  his 


NOTES  FOR   TRAVELLERS  IX  r.iI.ESTIXE.         151 

portmanteau,  he  finds  himself  on  the  quay  surrounded 
by  a  gibbering  howhng  crowd.  If  ignorant  of  the 
language,  he  will  do  well  to  select  some  English- 
speaking  youth  to  have  his  luggage  carried  up  to  the 
hotel.  These  lads,  who  have  picked  up  a  smattering  of 
English  and  perhaps  French,  will  try  to  make  the  un- 
wary believe  that  they  are  first-rate  dragomans,  able 
and  willing  to  go  everjrvvhere  and  do  everything. 
There  is  no  need,  however,  for  the  tourist  who  is 
only  going  to  Jerusalem  to  engage  any  of  these.  Let 
him  hire  a  horse  for  himself  and  mule  for  his  baggage 
(the  price  for  each  animal  up  to  Jerusalem  varying, 
according  to  the  season,  from  seven  to  fifteen  or  even 
twenty  francs)  from  one  of  the  numerous  inakdri  (mu- 
leteers), who  are  always  to  be  Ibund  near  the  hotel. 
This  hotel  is  kept  by  M.  Hardegg,  a  member  of  the 
flourishing  German  colony  which  succeeded  the  Ame- 
rican on  its  failure.  The  house  is  clean  and  comfort- 
able, and  charges  not  exorbitant. 

The  distance  from  Jaffa  (a  European  corruption  of 
the  Arabic  Yafa)  to  Jerusalem  is  nearly  thirty-eight 
miles ;  this  usually  takes  ten  hours  to  get  over ;  with  a 
good  horse  it  may  be  easily  done  in  seven  hours.  A 
break  in  the  journey  is  frequently  made  at  Eamleh 
where  the  traveller  will  find  good  accommodation  at 
the  Eussian  hospice.  There  is  a  Latin  convent  too, 
but,  unhke  their  brethre-n  in  other  parts  of  Palestine, 


152        XOTES  FOR   TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE. 

the  monks  here  are  not  famed  for  urbanity.  At  these 
hospices  all  remuneration  is  left  to  the  traveller's  dis- 
cretion. For  a  niglit's  lodging  and  dinner  it  is  usual 
to  give  not  less  than  five  francs  per  head,  and  a  small 
tip  to  the  servant. 

The  distances  on  the  I'oad  are  as  follows  : — 

Jaffa  to  Ramleh       .         .         .         ,         •     Hf  miles, 
liamleh  to  Jerusalem       .         .         .         .     26      „ 

The  present  town  of  Jaffa  is  of  modern  construc- 
tion. The  site  is  ancient,  and  the  name  Japha  occurs 
in  many  passages  of  the  Old  Testament,  from  the  time 
of  the  first  Jewish  incursion  up  to  the  date  of  Ezra.  In 
the  New  Testament  it  is  mentioned  in  connection  with 
Peter's  vision  and  the  raising  of  Tabitha  (Acts  ix. 
and  X.).  The  house  of  Simon  the  Tanner  is  still 
shown,  and  will  be  interesting  to  those  whose  emotion- 
power  is  always  equal  to  the  occasion.  To  the  ordi- 
nary antiquarian  the  ruins  seem  to  be  at  most  three  or 
four  centuries  old.  Inland  of  the  town  is  a  wide 
stretch  of  gardens  in  which  oranges,  lemons,  apricots, 
peaches,  sycamores,  and  mulberries  are  cultivated. 
Grapes,  tomatoes,  egg-plants,  water  melons,  cucumbers, 
vegetable  marrows,  as  wtII  as  varieties  of  beans  and 
other  vegetables,  are  also  grown.  The  oranges  are 
well  known,  and  are  remarkable  for  their  size  and 
the  extraordinary  thickness  of  their  skin ;  the  flavour 
is  good. 


NOTJES  FOE   TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE.         153 

On  leaving  the  gardens  of  Jaffa,  a  long  low  build- 
ing with  a  tall  flaf]rstaff  standing  beside  it  is  seen  on  the 
right  hand.     This  is   the   Jewish  Agricultural  School 
(Mikveh  Israel)   founded   by   the   '  Alliance   Israelite 
Universelle,'  and   under   the  direction  of  M.  Charles 
Netter.    The  object  of  the  institution  is  to  teach  Jewish 
boys  a  useful  and  profitable  trade,  and  also  when  means 
allow  to  open  a  school  for  boys  and  girls.    This  scheme 
has  experienced  great  opposition  from  the  Jews  resi- 
dent in  Palestine,  and  especially  from  their  Eabbis. 
All  the  Ashkenay  (Pohsh  and  Eussian)  Jews  in  Jeru- 
salem, Tiberias,  Safat,  and  Hebron  Hve  more  or  less  in 
idleness,  supported  by  the  alms  {hallukah)  collected  in 
Europe  from  their  co-rehgionists.     The  distribution  of 
this  money  falls  to  the  Eabbis,  who  thus  exercise  an 
almost  unlimited  influence  over  their   congregations, 
who — being   without   trade    or   means   of   gaining   a 
Hvelihood — would  inevitably  starve  were  this  extra- 
neous help  withdrawn.     These  Eabbis  are  not  only 
bigoted  and  fanatical,  but  they  fear  that  if  the  Jews  of 
Europe  get  to  know  and  appreciate  the  real  state  of 
the  case  much  of  the  money  now  given  in  indiscrimi- 
nate— and  harmful — charity,  will  be  apphed  to  some 
useful  and  practical  purpose  hke  the  above-mentioned 
school.     Those  European  Jews  who  have  the  true  in- 
terests of  their   co-religionists   at  heart  would    never 
thus  blindly  give  alms  could  they  but  see  the  vice  and 


154        NOTES  FOR   TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE. 

misery  entailed  by  this  system  on  their  brethren  in 
Palestine,  especially  at  Jerusalem. 

A  little  beyond  this  farm  and  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  road  is  the  village  of  Yaziir,  half  surrounded  by 
gardens  of  orange,  pomegranate,  and  fig  trees,  fenced 
in  with  prickly  pears.     A  few  palm  trees  make  this 
village  with  '  the  grass  growing  upon  the  housetops ' 
somewhat  picturesque  from  a  distance.     A  closer  ac- 
quaintance reveals   ^othing  but  uncleanness  and  un- 
sightliness.     The  people  are  well  off,  as  they  own  a 
lai'ge  tract  of  the  fertile  plain  ;  but  they  are  a  bad  lot, 
a  mere  scratch  population  from  all  parts  of  the  plain, 
and  some  even  fi'om  the  mountains.     They  are  a  com- 
paratively industrious  folk;  they   may  even  be  seen 
weeding  their  corn,  but  then  tlie  weeds  are  required 
for  their  cattle  and  mules.     Of  the  former  they  have 
large  herds,  but  very  few  sheep,  and  no  goats.     In  the 
middle  of  the  village  is  visible  the  remains  of  a  fort, 
seemingly  of  Crusading  or  Early  Saracenic  construc- 
tion.    By  the  roadside  is  a  white  building  surmounted 
by  little  domes.     This  is  a  Makam  in  honour  of  the 
Imam  'Ali. 

To  the  north  of  this  road  a  hne  of  villages  is 
seen  about  two  miles  distant,  beginning  with  Selameh 
to  tlie  west ;  then  Ibu  Ibrak,  the  ancient  Bene  Berak 
(Josh.  xix.  45),  Sakia,  Kefr  'Ana  (the  Ono  of  Neh.  vii. 


NOTES  FOR   TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE.        155 

37,  xi.  34,  35 ;  Ezra  ii.  33),  and  El  Yeliudiyeli  (Jehud^ 
Josh.  xix.  45)  on  the  east. 

Two  miles  from  Yazur  is  the  village  of  Bayt  Dejan 
on  the  left,  possibly  the  Beth  Dagon,  '  House  or 
Temple  of  Dagon,'  mentioned  in  Josh.  xv.  41.  A 
little  further,  on  the  same  side  of  the  road,  is  Safeiyeh, 
the  Sariphcea^  whose  Bishop  Stephen  is  mentioned  in 
the  list  of  the  Council  of  Jerusalem  held  a.d.  536,  and 
which  was  destroyed  by  a  Saracenic  incursion  a.d.  797. 

Passmg  over  slightly  undulating  ground  Sarafend 
appears  on  the  right.  In  front  the  White  Tower  of 
Eamleh  forms  a  conspicuous  landmark,  lying  nearly 
half  a  mile  S.W,  of  the  town.  This  has  frequently 
been  called  the  tower  of  the  Forty  Martyrs,  but  with- 
out reason,  though  a  tradition  as  old  as  the  sixteentli 
century  states  it  to  be  the  tower  of  a  Cliristian  Churcli. 
The  style,  however,  is  distinctly  Saracenic,  and  an 
inscription  over  the  door  gives  the  date  a.ii.  710  (a.d. 
1310).  Erom  the  platform  at  top  (86  feet  high)  a  fnio 
view  is  obtained  over  the  plain  which  fades  away  into 
space  towards  the  south  ;  is  bounded  on  the  east  by 
the  central  ridge  of  mountains,  and  on  the  north  by 
the  dim  blue  line  of  Carmel.  From  this  point  Nebi 
Samwil — to  the  N.W.  of  Jerusalem — is  visible  ;  also 
the  Convent  at  Eam  Allah  and  other  liill  villages, 
especially  towards  sunset.  At  this  time  the  view  is 
best,  for  the  tender  evening  tints  soften  the  hills  and 


156        NOTES  FOR   TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE. 

allow  of  a  certain  misty  effect  which  is  totally  wantiu<r 
during  the  day  Avhcn  everything  appears  hard  and 
glaring. 

A  modern  tradition  makes  Eamleh  the  Bamatkaimy 
or  Ramah,  where  the  prophet  Samuel  was  born,  and 
also  the  Arimathaea  of  the  New  Testament.  Conform- 
ably with  this  tradition  the  House  of  Nicodemus,  who, 
from  his  connection  \dth  Joseph  of  Arimathsea,  seems 
to  have  been  considered  his  townsman,  is  shown  in  a 
side  chapel  of  the  Latin  Convent  Church.  There  is  no 
connection  even  in  the  names,  as  the  Hebrew  Ramah 
means  a  hill^  and  the  Arabic  Eamleh  sandy.  The  first 
mention  of  the  town  occurs  in  '  Bernard  the  Monk  '  (De 
Locis  Sanctis)  a.d.  870  :  then  Abu  '1  Feda,  the  well- 
known  Arabic  geographer  (about  a.d.  1320),  informs  us 
that  the  town  was  built  by  Sulayman  the  son  of  Abd-el- 
Melek,  the  seventh  Ommizad  Khalif  at  Cairo.  Mejr-ed- 
Din  (a.d.  1495)  says  that  Nasr  Mohammad  ibn  Ka- 
lawun,  wlio  reigned  in  Eg)rpt  a.d.  1310,  built  a  minaret 
famous  for  its  height  and  beauty.  As  before  men- 
tioned, this  date  appears  over  the  door.  The  mosque 
is  now  ruined,  and  nothing  remains  but  part  of  the 
outer  works  and  the  subterraneous  cisterns  which  used 
to  su|)ply  it  witli  water,  which  is  as  much  a  necessity 
for  the  Moslem  ceremonials  as  it  was  for  the  old 
.Jewish.  Tlicre  is  no  occasion  to  believe  that  any  part 
of  the  building  was  other  tlian  a  mosque.     Nearly,  if 


NOrUS  FOR   TRAVELLERS  IX  PALESTINE.         157 

not  quite,  all  the  early  examples  of  such  edifices  con- 
sist of  a  large  square  surrounded  by  a  single  row  of 
arches  on  three  sides,  while  on  the  south — to  which 
the  face  is  turned  when  praying — there  are  three  or 
four  rows. 

During  the  Crusades  the  town  of  Eamleh  was 
always  an  important  post.  At  this  time  it  was  nearly 
eight  times  its  present  size.  Traces  of  the  old  buildings, 
and  a  subterranean  cistern  {El  'Anaziyeh)  with  an 
almost  effaced  Cufic  inscription,  as  well  as  many  rock- 
hewn  wells,  may  be  seen  extending  to  a  considerable 
distance  on  the  W.  and  N.W.  of  the  modern  town. 
When  in  1099  it  was  first  occupied  by  the  Crusaders 
there  were  twelve  gates,  and  it  remained  in  Christian 
hands  till  eighty-eight  years  later,  when  it  fell  into  the 
power  of  Salah-ed-din  (commonly  known  as  Saladin), 
after  the  disastrous  battle  of  Ilattin.  Soon  afterwards, 
however,  it  was  occupied  by  Eichard  Coeur  de  Lion, 
not  however  till  the  castle  had  been  destroyed  by  the 
Mohammedans.  In  the  truce  of  1192,  half  the  city 
and  the  greater  part  of  the  maritime  plain  was  given 
up  to  the  Christians,  and  a  few  years  later  they  ob- 
tained the  whole  city.  In  1266  it  fell  finally  into 
Moslem  hands,  on  its  capture  by  the  Sultan  Bibars. 

In  tlie  Latin  Convent — part  of  which  is  a  IIos- 
pitium,  built  in  the  thirteenth  centuiy  by  Philip  the 
Good,  Duke  of  Burgundy — niuy  be  seen  the  names  of 


15«        NOTES  FOIi    rnAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE. 

certain  valiant  Crusaders,  cut  with  their  daggers,  over 
one  of  the  two  low  doorways.  The  habit  of  scratching 
or  ^\Titing  his  name  is  not  confined  to  the  modern 
tourist — though  the  diabolical  invention  of  a  stenciUing- 
plate  and  blacking-pot  is  so  limited.  Names  of  old 
Greek  travellers  may  be  seen  in  the  tombs  at  Thebes  ; 
Crusaders'  names  in  the  Convent  of  St.  Katharine  at 
Sinai,  and  on  the  door  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  at  Jeru- 
salem :  Hebrew  names  are  found  at  the  Golden  and 
Double  gateways  of  the  Haram-el-Sherif.  Antiquity, 
however,  can  never  sanction  such  an  abominable  prac- 
tice by  which  the  most  venerable  and  beautiful  ruins 
are  disfigured  with  the  names  of  snobs. 

From  Ramleh  the  traveller  has  the  choice  of  two 
roads.  The  most  direct  is  that  leading  up  Wady  'Ali, 
and  is  practicable  for  carriages,  except  after  heavy 
rains.  Formerly  a  diligence  used  to  run  on  it,  but  the 
heavy  Government  tax  broke  its  back.  The  other 
route,  however,  by  Lydda,  Beth  Horon,  and  Gibeon,  is 
by  far  the  most  interesting.  A  brief  description  of 
each  will  enable  the  traveller  to  make  his  own  choice. 
The  first  may  easily  be  done  in  seven  hours,  and  the 
se(!ond  requires  nine  and  a  half  to  ten  hours.  A  third 
road  unites  with  the  latter  at  Eljib  (Gibeon),  but  as  it 
lies  in  the  bed  of  Wady  Selman  nothing  of  interest  is 
vi.sible  from  it. 

The  carriage  road  leads  past  Kubab,a  small  village 


NOTES  FOR   TRAVELLEBS  IX  PALESTINE.        150 

on  the  left  (from  here  Tell-el-Sezari,  the  ancient  Gezer, 
lies  to  the  right,  easily  known  by  the  domed  Moslem 
tomb  on  the  top),  and  in  nine  and  a  half  miles  reaches 
Latrun,  said  to  be  so  called  from  the  monkish  legend 
which  places  the  Castellum  boni  latronis,  or  Penitent 
Thief  s  Castle,  here.  It  has  also,  but  erroneously,  been 
identified  with  Modin,  the  burial-place  of  the  Macca- 
bees. The  true  site  of  their  tombs  is  doubtless  at 
Midyeh,  a  village  a  few  miles  N.W.  of  Lower  Beth 
Horon.  About  a  mile  north  of  Latrun  lies  the  village 
of  'Am was — an  old  Emmaus,  called  during  the  Eoman 
occupation  Nicopohs,  but  not  to  be  confounded  with 
the  Emmaus  of  the  New  Testament.  The  traces  of  the 
ancient  town  cover  a  large  extent,  though  the  modern 
village  is  insignificant.  The  ruins  of  an  early  Christian 
church  are  interesting.  The  triple  apse  is  still  tole- 
rably preserved,  though  it  is  somewhat  difficult  to  trace 
the  body  of  the  building.  The  stones  of  the  east  end 
are  large  and  well  fitted  together ;  tlie  arch  of  the 
south  apse  is  still  nearly  perfect,  that  in  the  centre 
rises  some  seven  to  nine  feet  above  the  soil,  but  the 
north  apse  is  nearly  destroyed.  From  the  style  it 
appears  to  be  a  church  of  the  third  or  fourth  centuries. 
Under  the  name  of  Ammaus,  the  town  is  several  times 
mentioned  by  Josephus,  who  tells  us  that  it  was  for- 
tified by  Bacchides  when  he  was  fighting  Jonathan 
Maccabaeus.     Later  on  it  was  burnt  by  Varus ;  near 


inO        XOTES  FOIi    TnAT'ELLEns  TX  PA  LEST  I XE. 

it  too  the  Syrians  pitclied  their  camp  before  their  great 
defeat  by  Judas  Maccabaeus  (1  Mace.  iii.  40).  Jerome 
says  that  the  name  Nicopohs  was  given  to  it  by  JuHus 
Africanus,  who  rebuilt  it  under  the  Emperor  M.  Aure- 
lius  Antoninus.  A  miraculous  fountain,  which  cured 
all  rnaladies  of  men  and  of  beasts,  is  said  to  have  been 
blocked  up  by  Julian  (the  Apostate).  St.  Willibald 
(eiglith  century)  seems  to  have  been  the  first  to  con- 
found this  Eramaus  with  the  village  mentioned  in  St. 
Luke  xxiv.  13,  as  distant  seven  and  a  half  miles  from 
Jerusalem.  Beyond  Amwas  lie  Yalo  the  old  Ajalon, 
and  Bayt  Nuba,  a  strong  fort  in  the  time  of  the  Cru- 
saders, who  called  it  Castellum  Arnaldi.  It  is  possibly 
the  same  as  the  Nebo  mentioned  in  Ezra  ii.  29,  and 
Neh.  vii.  33.  The  village  contains  nothing  of  interest, 
but  a  fine  well,  140-145  feet  deep  to  the  surface  of  the 
water  and  seventeen  feet  in  diameter,  exists  in  the 
wady. 

From  Latrun  to  Bab-el-Wady — the  Gate  of  the 
Valley — the  road  runs  with  low  hills  on  either  side  for 
2  J  miles.  About  a  mile  below  this  point  is  a  small  native 
<'ofree-shop  beside  a  spring  on  the  right-hand  side ;  to 
ihc  north-east  of  this  and  half  a  mile  distant  is  a  small 
villiige  called  Dayr  Ayyub — the  Convent  or  House  of 
Joab.  At  the  entrance  of  the  wady  is  another  similar 
cnnee-liouse,  where  bread  and  coffee,  hard-boiled  eggs, 
and  perhaps  a  chicken  and  a  glass  of  drak — native 


NOTES  FOR    THAVELLEliS  IX  PALESTINE.         1(31 

spirit — may  be  procured.  Tliere  is  also  an  octroi  for 
the  examination  of  native  merchandise,  vegetables  and 
other  produce  going  up  to  the  Jerusalem  market.  The 
soldiers  stationed  here  usually  take  a  small  percentage 
of  all  edibles  for  their  own  peculiar  benefit.  The  lug- 
gage of  European  travellers  is  not  touched. 

On  reaching  the  head  of  the  wady,  the  village  of 
Saris  is  seen  a  few  hundred  yards  distant  to  the  left. 
The  road  then  runs  along  the  ridge  and  crosses  over  to 
the  south  side  of  another  wady.  Passing  over  the 
watershed  of  this  there  is  a  steep  descent,  and  in  five 
miles  from  Bab-el- Wady  the  village  of  Karyet-el-Anab 
( Village  of  Grapes)  is  reached.  This  is  the  old  Kir- 
jath-jearim  (Village  of  Woods).  The  modern  village 
is  a  good  specimen  of  South  Palestine  architecture  ; 
the  houses  are  solidly  built  of  hewn  stone  with  vaulted 
ceilings.  This  system  of  domed  roofs  is  necessitated 
by  the  absence  of  wood  for  rafters.  A  somewhat 
similar  system  of  construction  is  found  in  the  ruins  of 
the  Desert  et-Tih,  in  Moab,  in  the  basaltic  ruins  of  the 
Ilauran,  which  like  those  on  the  borders  of  the  Desert 
in  North  Syria  must,  from  the  internal  evidence  of  in- 
scriptions and  style,  be  attributed  to  a  Christian  race 
who  flourished  from  the  second  to  the  sixth  centuries. 
These  were  in  all  probability  the  Beni  Ghassan,  a 
powerful  tribe  of  Arabs  who  embraced  Christianity  and 
settled  on  the  frontiers  of  the  Desert,  abandoning  their 


162        NOTES  FOR    TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE. 

nomad   life  ;  or,  what  is  more  probable — if,  as  some 
imagine,  they  came  from  the  cities  of  Arabia — improv- 
ing  upon   their   former   civilisation   by   contact   with 
European  art  at  Damascus  and  the  Eoman  colonies. 
Tiie   principal  family  in  this  village — which  is  some- 
times   called    after    them — is    that    of    Abu    Ghosh. 
Formerly  they  w^ere  feudal   lords  of  a  large  district, 
extending  even  into  the  maritime  plain.     So  late  as 
1845  these  freebooters  kept  not  only  the  whole  country 
side,  but  the  Turkish  soldiery  and  governors  in  awe. 
Toll  was  exacted  when  required  by  them ;  those  who 
resisted  their  demands  were  instantly  shot,  and  at  last 
the  family  grew  to  such  a  height  of  insolence  that  they 
shot  two  Turkish  officers  of  high  rank  and  put  their 
guards  to  flight.     This  was  the  last  straw,  and  in  1 846 
the   Government   of  the   Porte   made   an   effort   and 
seized  the  principid  shaykhs.     Some  were  banished  to 
Widdin  and   Bosnia,  others   were   fined.     Since   that 
their  power  has  dwindled  away,  and  though  they  are 
still  well  off,  nothing  remains  of  their  ancient  despotism 
but  tales  of  fire  and  murder,  plunder  and  revolt. 

In  the  valley  below  the  village  stands  a  Gothic 
church  formerly  attached  to  a  monasteiy  of  Minorite 
friars.  It  is  first  mentioned  by  Boniface,  who  was 
guardian  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  about  a.d.  1555,  and 
a  later  monkish  legend  which  makes  this  place  Ana- 
thofh,  tlic  birthplace  of  Jeremiah  the  Prophet,  dedicates 


NOTES  FOR   TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE.         l«;j 

the  church  to  him.  The  building  is  still  iu  good 
repair,  but  used  as  a  cattle  stable.  It  is  now  believed 
(1872)  that  this  interesting  relic  has  been  bought  by 
the  Eussian  Church,  which  intends  restoring  it,  but 
owing  to  changes  in  the  local  authorities  the  sale  has 
never  been  made  public. 

Still  descending,  the  road  passes  the  village  of  Bayt 
Nakiiba  on  the  left,  then  a  small  coffee-house  on  the 
right.  A  wady  is  soon  afterwards  crossed  by  a  bridge, 
and  the  Crusading  ruin  called  Khirbet  Ikbala  is  seen  a 
few  score  yards  to  the  right.  A  short  sharp  ascent 
leads  to  a  bit  of  level  road  at  the  end  of  which  is  a 
slope  of  a  few  yards  at  such  a  steep  pitch  that  it  would 
seem  impossible  for  any  carriage  ever  to  have  been 
driven  over  it  in  safety.  To  the  right  of  this  is  the 
httle  hamlet  of  Kastal  (some  old  Latin  Castelliuii) 
perched  on  the  summit  of  a  conical  hill  and  topped 
by  its  watch-tower.  A  village  similar  in  position  and 
appearance  lies  across  the  large  wady  to  the  south- 
west ;  this  is  Soba,  by  some  considered  to  be  Eamah, 
the  home  of  Samuel.  If,  however,  we  accept  the 
tomb  of  Eachel  in  its  present  position,  this  can  hardly 
be  so  (see  1  Sam.  x.). 

From  Kastal  a  long  zigzag  leads  down  to  Kalonia 
(perhaps  some  Eoman  Colonia).  It  appears  in  the 
verse  of  the  Septuagint,  which  is  said  to  be  interpo- 

M  2 


164        NOTES  FOR   TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE. 

lated   (Josh.  xv.  60),  as  Koulon ;   in   the  same  place 
'Ain   Karem  preserves  its  name  unchanged.     By  the 
roadside,  below  the  village  of  Kalonia  (which  is  four 
miles   from  Karyet-el-'Anab)   are  some  massive  ruins 
without  history;    they  appear  to  be  of  Eoman  work- 
manship.    Halfway  up  the  hill  to  the  right  we  see  'Ain 
Karem,  called  by  the  Latins  St.  Jean  du  Desert.     Here 
the  religious  order  of  Les  Dames  de  Sion  have  a  large 
school  for  girls  situated  in  the  middle  of  a  charming 
flower-garden.     In  a  monastery  of  Spanish  monks  is 
shown  part  of  the  house  of  Zacharias,  the  birthplace 
of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  and  the  impression  made  in 
the  rock  by  his  body  when  his  mother  hid  him  at  the 
time  of  the  murder  of  the  innocents.     There  is  also  a 
Greek  monastery  in  the  village.     A  long  ascent,  end- 
ing in  four  or  five  sharp  zigzags,  brings  us  to  the  level 
of  Jerusalem,  but  the  city  itself,  distant  from  Kalonia 
4^  miles,  is  not  visible  for  another  two  miles.     The 
first  objects  which    catch  the    traveller's  eye  are  the 
unsightly  white  domes  of  the  Russian  church,  and  the 
long  barrack-like  buildings  of  the  hospice.     On  each 
side  of  the  road,  and  now  extending  a  mile  and  a  quar- 
ter from  the  walls,  are  numbers  of  villas  and  cottages, 
chiefly  inhabited  by  Europeans  and  Jews.     All  these 
houses,  with  the  exception  of  five  or  six,  and  the  house 
of  the  Prussian  Sisters,  have  sprung   up  since  1869. 
It  is  nut  till  lie  is  quite  close  to  the   town  that  the 


NOTES  FOR   TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE.         165 

traveller  sees  the  low  grey  walls  topped  in  one  point 
by  the  clump  of  stone-pines  in  the  Armenian  convent 
garden.  The  view  is  most  disappointing,  and  scarcely 
any  amount  of  enthusiasm  could  really  make  the  pil- 
grim go  into  ecstasies.  Were  he  to  approach  from  the 
southern  side  of  the  Mount  of  Olives  the  case  might 
be  different,  as  thence  a  most  remarkable  view  suddenly 
comes  before  him. 

The  second  road  from  Eamleh  to  Jerusalem  (about 
thirty  miles)  passes  through  Lidd  (the  ancient  Lydda 
and  Diospolis),  by  both  of  which  names  it  was  known  in 
the  early  centuries  of  the  Christian  era.  The  two  towns 
are  separated  by  two  and  a  half  miles  of  gardens,  con- 
taining vegetables,  sycamores,  pomegranates,  and  a  few 
oranges,  all  hedged  in  with  prickly  pears.  The  road 
is  sandy  and  pleasant ;  in  the  early  morning  foxes, 
jackals,  and  occasionally  wolves,  may  be  seen  return- 
ing to  the  shelter  of  these  gardens  after  their  nightly 
prowl  in  the  plain. 

There  is  nothing  worthy  of  note  in  Lidd  except 
the  Church  of  St.  George.  The  ruins  of  the  old 
building  said  to  have  been  built  by  Eichard  Coeur  de 
Lion  have  lately  (1870)  incorporated  into  a  new 
Greek  church.  Part  of  an  arch  is  still  to  be  seen 
between  the  church  and  the  mosque,  and  this  is  all 
that  remains  outside. 

Lidd  is  famous  as  the  birthplace  of  St.  George,  who 


16R        NOTES  FOR    TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE. 

became  patron  saint  of  many  of  the  Crnsaders,  English 
and  others,  at  the  first  taking  of  Eamleh. 

Crossing  the  plain  in  a  south-easterly  direction  for 
3 J  miles,  Jimzu,  the  ancient  Gimzo  (2  Chron.  xxviii.  18), 
is  readied.  On  the  edge  of  the  same  low  range  of  hills, 
and  three  miles  to  the  north,  a  village  may  be  seen  on 
a  conspicuous  round  tell,  or  mound.  This  is  Hadithah, 
the  old  Hadid  mentioned  (Neh.  vii.  37,  ix.  34,  35 ; 
Ezra  ii.  33)  in  conjunction  with  Lod  (Lidd),  Ono  (Kefr 
'Ana,  before  mentioned),  and  Neballat  (Bayt  Nabala,  a 
village  l.\  mile  to  the  north).  These  low  hills,  begin- 
ning at  the  edge  of  the  plain  and  extending  up  to  the 
true  base  of  the  main  mountain  range,  constitute  the 
Shephelah,  which  in  the  Authorised  Version  is  some- 
times translated  *  valley,'  and  sometimes  '  plain.'  The 
Rabbis  made  no  such  mistake  in  the  Talmud,  but 
rightly  divided  the  country  into  Hor  (mountain),  Shep- 
helah  (hill),  and  'Einek  (plain). 

The  road  then  passes  through  Berfilia  and  Bir 
M'am  to  Bayt  Sira :  hence  two  roads  may  be  taken,  the 
one  up  Wady  Selman,  and  showing  nothing  of  interest ; 
the  other,  by  the  two  Beth  Horons.  The  two  roads  join 
at  the  top  of  the  mountains,  near  El  Jib.  About  two 
miles  N.N.W.  of  Berfilia  Hes  El  Midyeh,  lately  proposed 
for  identification  with  Modin,  the  burial-place  of  the  Mac- 
cabees. The  tombs  which  have  been  found  seem  to  me  to 
leave  no  reasonable  doubt  that  here  were  the  pyramids 


NOTES  FOR    TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE.        107 

of  polished  stone  erected  by  Simon  (cf.  1  Mace,  chaps, 
ii.,  xiii.,  anfl  xvi.),  whicli  were  visible  even  from  the 
sea.  Eusebius  states  that  Modin  was  not  far  from 
Diospolis,  and  Jerome  says  that  it  was  only  a  little 
village.  Passing  along  the  hill-tops,  Bayt  'Ur-el-Tahta — 
Nether  Beth  Horon — is  reached  in  less  than  three  miles. 
Here  tlie  old  Eoman  road  becomes  easily  traceable : 
a  sharp  dip  and  then  a  rise  bring  the  traveller  to  long 
steps  and  slopes  formerly  cased  with  stones  and 
metalled,  but  now  bare  slippery  sheets  of  rock.  The 
village  of  Bayt  'Ur-el-Foka — Upper  Beth  Horon — com- 
mands a  wide  view  which  is  best  seen  from  the  Medafeh 
or  Guest  House — a  tower  in  the  middle  of  the  village. 
On  a  clear  day  the  whole  of  the  maritime  plain,  twenty 
miles  on  either  side  of  Jaffa,  is  spread  out  like  a  map ; 
the  distinction  between  the  Shephelah  and  the  moun- 
tains is  easily  seen.  In  tlie  mountains  themselves 
many  a  village  with  its  central  public  tower  is  seen 
perched  on  a  conical  hill.  In  former  days  this  was  a 
very  lawless  district,  and  the  Bayt  Simhan  (local  for 
Simkn — Simeon)  and  Abu  Ghosh  kept  blood  always 
flowing.  Even  in  these  days  of  comparative  civilisa- 
tion the  blood  feud  is  not  forgotten,  and  at  times  vil- 
lages will  join  in  pitched  battle,  till  the  Government 
interferes  and  sends  some  of  the  combatants  to  the 
conscription  and  others  to  Cyprus — the  Turkish  Botany 
Bay — while  the  remainder  are  lieavily  fined. 


168        XOTHS  FOR    TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE. 

To  tlic  north  is  seen  a  conspicuous  mazar  or 
mosque,  dedicated  to  Abu  Zaytiin  (the  Father  of  the 
Olive),  and  built  liere  in  consequence  of  an  olive  tree 
said  to  have  sprung  up  miraculously  in  a  single  night. 
From  the  mosque  to  the  valley  bed  below  is  a  little 
more  than  1,000  feet.  It  may  be  well  here  to  remark 
that  the  Arabic  word  Wely,  so  constantly  used  in 
books  of  travel  to  mean  a  tomb,  really  means  a  fa- 
vourite (with  God),  and  hence  a  saint.  We  might  as 
well  say  that '  All  Saints '  means  a  cemetery. 

Beyond  this  tomb,  on  the  same  ridge,  lies  the  vil- 
lage of  Baytunia  ;  the  Eoman  road  follows  the  next 
ridge  southwards.  To  the  right  of  this  may  be  seen 
the  villages  of  Bayt  'Anan  (probably  Elon  beth  Hanan, 
1  Kings  iv.  9),  Bayt  Dukku,  Kubaybeh — the  monkish 
Emmaus — with  its  white  French  convents,  Biddu  and 
Bayt  Izza,  The  valleys  here  are  very  steep,  and 
generally  more  or  less  clothed  with  scrub  of  ever- 
green oak  (f  pseudo  cocci/era),  large-leaved  arbutus  (A. 
andrachne)^  Cytisus,  Kharrub  or  locust  tree,  as  well 
as  fig  and  olive  trees. 

Beth  Horon  is  first  mentioned  in  Josh.  xvi.  5  as 
the  S.W.  limit  of  Ephraim  ;  both  the  villages  are  said 
(1  Chron.  vii,  24)  to  have  been  built  by  Sherah,  the 
daughter  of  Beriah,  an  Ephraimite.  Here  Joshua  de- 
stroyed the  Amorite  league,  driving  them  down  from 
nibcon  (Kl  Jib)  past  Beth  Horon  into  the  plain,  where 


NOTES  FOR    TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE.         It59 

he  followed  up  his  successes  by  a  truly  Semitic  cam- 
paign of  slaughter  and  devastation,  '  utterly  destroying 
all  the  souls  that  were  in  the  cities.'  Solomon  after- 
wards rebuilt  and  fortified  them  (1  Kings  ix.  17  ;  2 
Chron.  viii.  5),  and  they  seem  always  to  have  been 
posts  of  importance,  mainly  of  course  from  the  fact 
that  one  of  the  great  high  roads  from  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem 
passed  through  them.  In  the  wars  of  the  Maccabees, 
Mcanor,  the  general  of  Demetrius,  King  of  Antioch, 
pitched  his  camp  here  before  his  final  defeat  by  Judas. 
The  battle  probably  took  place  at  Khirbet  Adasy,  an 
insignificant  ruin  near  El  Jib,  for  Josephus  tells  us  that 
Judas's  camp  was  at  Adasa,  30  furlongs  from  Beth 
Horon — this  ruin  is,  however,  G.>  miles  distant;  but 
A  (30)  and  iV  (50)  might  easUy  become  interchanged 
in  the  MS.  Soon  after  this  Bacchides,  the  Syrian 
general,  rebuilt  the  walls  of  the  town ;  and  Cestius, 
the  proconsul  of  Syria  in  the  time  of  Nero,  took  refuge 
in  it  after  his  defeat  by  the  Jews  at  Lydda. 

There  are  no  traces  of  antiquity  except  the  old 
stones  of  which  the  modern  hovels  are  built,  some 
cave  tombs,  and  a  small  rock-hewn  tank  to  the  north. 

Leaving  Bayt  'Ur,  the  route  still  keeps  along  the 
Eoman  road  on  the  ridge — throughout  Palestine  it  is  to 
be  observed  that  Eoman  roads,  whenever  practicable, 
were  carried  along  the  crests  of  hills  or  spurs.  Two 
advantages  were  gained  by  this  method :   first,  greater 


170        NOTES  FOR    TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE. 

gecurity  from  attack  than  would  be  possible  in  a  nar- 
row valley;  and  secondly,  much  easier  gradients.  The 
road,  too,  would  be  more  easily  kept  in  repair  than 
would  be  the  case  were  it  exposed  to  the  violence  of 
the  torrents  which  occasionally  sweep  down  the  wadies. 
At  4',  miles  a  watershed  is  reached,  the  eastern  side  of 
which  appears  to  drain  down  to  the  Jordan  valley. 
Such,  however,  is  not  the  case ;  the  slope  descends 
merely  to  Wady  Bayt  Hannina,  thence  to  Kalonia  on 
the  carriage  road,  and  finally  down  to  the  plain  by 
Wady  Serar.  From  this  point  El  Jib  (Gibeon)  and 
Nebi  Samwil  (by  some  thought  to  be  Eamah  of  Samuel, 
and  by  others  taken  as  Mizpeh)  are  visible  on  the 
right,  the  former  1  mile  and  the  latter  2^  miles 
distant. 

The  modern  town  of  El  Jib  stands  on  the  north- 
western of  the  twin  mamelons,  which,  connected  by  a 
ridge,  fonncd  the  site  of  the  ancient  Gibeon.  Most  of 
the  hewn  stones  of  which  the  houses  are  built  were 
brought  from  a  ruin  called  El  'Anayziyeh,  some  two 
miles  to  the  west.  In  the  centre  of  the  village  is  a 
long  vaulted  chamber  with  semicircular  ai'ches  and  one 
circular  window.  The  ai)pearance  of  the  work  is  late 
lioman,  and  it  would  seem  to  have  formed  the  base- 
ment of  a  tower  or  fort.  The  southern  hill  is  planted 
with  olive  trees,  and  the  steeply  terraced  sides  are 
grown  with  figs  and  vines.     The  soil  to  a  considerable 


NOTES  FOR   TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE.        171 

depth  is  full  of  fragments  of  pottery ;  many  sepulchral 
caves  are  hewn  in  the  rock.  On  the  east  is  a  fine 
spring  in  a  cavern ;  the  water  is  clear,  cool,  and  never- 
failing.  A  few  yards  lower  down  is  a  choked-up  reser- 
voir of  small  dimensions,  originally  intended  for  irri- 
gating the  gardens  below.  About  the  centre  of  the 
connecting  ridge  on  the  west  is  also  a  small  spring 
issuing  from  a  hewn  cave,  and  running  into  a  small 
rock-hewn  tank,  whence  it  could  be  drawn  off  as  re- 
quired. On  the  edge  of  the  plain  below  are  pear  and 
almond  trees,  mixed  with  figs,  ohves,  and  vines.  Gi- 
beon  is  frequently  mentioned  in  the  Old  Testament, 
but  never  in  the  New.  Hence  it  was  that  the  wily 
Gibeonites  started  on  their  journey  to  Jericho  with  all 
the  old  rags,  broken  water-skins,  and  mouldy  crusts 
that  they  were  able  to  pick  up  off  the  dust  heaps.  This 
device  deceived  Joshua  most  completely,  and  he  made 
a  covenant  with  them.  Thus,  afterwards,  instead  of 
putting  them  to  the  edge  of  the  sword,  of  slaying  men 
and  women,  infants  and  sucklings,  and  burning  their 
city  with  fire,  he  was  obliged  to  protect  them  against 
their  enemies,  and  fight  their  battles  for  them.  Then, 
however,  he  made  them  '  hewers  of  wood  and  drawers 
of  water,'  and  their  town  became  a  Levitical  city. 
Here  Abner,  Saul's  general,  was  defeated  in  battle, 
when  he  tried  to  set  Ishbosheth,  the  son  of  the 
late  King,  upon  the  throne,  in  opposition  to  David  : 


172        XOTES  FOR    TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE. 

and  liere  Amasa  was  treacherously  murdered  (cf. 
2  Sam.  ii.  and  xx.).  In  the  time  of  Solomon,  Gibeon 
is  mentioned  as  '  tlie  great  high  place'  (1  Kings  iii.  4), 
and  here  the  King  offered  sacrifices,  and  received 
the  promise  of  wisdom,  riches,  and  honour  from 
Jehovah. 

From  El  Jib  there  are  three  roads  to  Jerusalem. 
The  smoothest  and  shortest  leads  down  to  Wady  Bayt 
Hannina,  and,  joining  that  from  Nebi  Samwil,  passes 
the  Tombs  of  the  Judges,  and  enters  Jerusalem  by  the 
Jaffa  or  the  Damascus  gate,  as  is  most  convenient. 
The  road  by  Nebi  Samwil  is  somewhat  rough,  but 
repays  the  trouble.  The  third  route  follows  the  Roman 
road,  and  passes  by  Tell-el-Fiil  (mound  of  beans),  and 
enters  the  city  by  the  Bab-el-'Amud  (or  Damascus 
gate).  Leaving  the  traveller  to  choose  his  route,  a 
description  of  Nebi  Samwil  and  Tell-el-Fiil  will  suffice. 

Nebi  Samwil  is  the  reputed  grave — amongst  Mos- 
lems and  the  more  ignorant  of  Jews — of  Samuel,  and 
even  so  esteemed  by  the  more  ignorant  Christians  and 
Jews.  The  same  objection  applies  to  this  being  con- 
sidered liiimah  of  Samuel  as  that  already  stated  with 
reference  to  Soba.  When  Saul  left  Samuel  who  had 
just  anointed  him  king,  lie  returned  to  Gibeah  of 
Benjamin  (Jeba  E.N.E.  of  El  Jib)  '  by  Rachel's  sepul- 
chre in  the  border  of  Benjamin.'  If  we  accept  the 
^'(-ncniliy  n-cognised  tomb  now  sliown  near  Bethlehem, 


NOTES  FOR    TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE.        173 

it  would  be  absurd  to  suppose  that  ;Saul  made  a 
journey  of  ten  hours  when  he  could  have  reached  his 
home  in  two.  This  tomb,  however,  cannot  with  pro- 
priety be  said  to  be  '  in  the  border  of  Benjamin '  (1 
Sam.  X.  2) ;  hence  we  may  have  to  look  for  the  place  of 
Kachel's  burial  to  the  north  of  Jerusalem :  in  Gen, 
XXXV.  16-20,  she  is  said  to  be  buried  on  the  road  to, 
and  not  far  from,  Ephrah,  which  is  Bethlehem,  but  this 
need  not  imply  any  very  close  proximity  to  that  village 
which  would  contradict  the  other  statement  that  the 
tomb  was  in  the  border  of  Benjamin.  Again,  if  Nebi 
Samwil  had  been  the  habitation  of  Samuel,  it  would 
be  most  improbable  that  Saul  coming  from  a  town 
only  four  or  five  miles  distant,  shoidd  be  ignorant  of 
his  existence.  It  seems  most  probable  that  the  tomb 
of  Eachel  must  be  looked  for  elsewhere,  and  that  Soba 
is  the  Eamathaim-Zophim  of  Samuel.  Whether  this 
be  so  or  not,  it  seems  clear  that  Nebi  Samwil  cannot 
be  this  Eamah. 

As  regards  the  identity  with  Mizpeh  —  which 
means  a  high  place  or  look-out — there  is  greater  proba- 
bihty  of  its  being  correct ;  but  if,  as  has  been  suggested, 
this  be  '  the  hill  of  God,'  garrisoned  by  the  Philistines 
(cf.  Stanley's  '  Sinai  and  Palestine,' p.  216),  it  is  very 
unlikely  that  the  Jews  would  have  been  able  to  hold 
the  meeting  to  which  they  were  called  by  Samuel 
(1  Sam.  X.  17).     It    seems  most  probable  that  either 


174        NOTES  FOR    TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE. 

this  place  or  ])referably  Tell-el-Ful  was  Mizpeh.  By 
Adamnanus  (seventh  century)  it  was  called  the  city  of 
Samuel  or  Raniah,  and  before  that  Procopius  seems  to 
allude  to  this  as  the  place  where  Justinian  built  a  wall 
and  dug  a  well  for  the  Monastery  of  St.  Samuel.  The 
Crusaders  seemed  to  have  called  it  indifferently  Shiloh, 
Ramah,  or  St.  Samuel.  A  Latin  convent  formerly 
stood  here ;  it  was  plundered  and  destroyed  by  Saladin 
(a.d.  1187).  The  principal  mosque  is  the  transept  of 
the  Gothic  church  belonging  to  this  building.  The 
tomb  is  a  mere  cenotaph  —  a  wooden  framework 
covered  with  a  ragged  cotton  pall.  The  view  from  the 
top  is  extensive,  extending  from  the  distant  hills  of 
Hebron  in  the  south  to  those  of  Nablus  in  the  north. 
Jerusalem  with  its  surrounding  hills  and  valleys  is 
clearly  seen.  To  the  north  and  north-east  are  Bay  tin 
(Bethel)  and  Bireh  (Beeroth) ;  further  east  are  Tyj-ibeh 
(Opltrah),  Jeba  (Gibeah  of  Saul),  El  Ram  (some  old 
Ramah),  as  well  as  other  modern  villages  whose  names 
may  be  gathered  from  the  map. 

Tell-el-Fiil  is  probably  Mizpeh.  It  is  described  as 
KaTivoiVTL  'lepovcraXr^fx,  (1  Mace.  iii.  46),  which  impHes 
that  it  was  near  to  and  visible  from  the  city.  Dr. 
Robinson  states  that  Tell-el-Fiil  is  not  visible  from 
Jerusalem,  but  it  is  from  all  the  north-west  parts  of 
the  wall ;  from  the  Tower  of  David  (so-called),  from 
the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  and  from  the  dome 


NOTES  FOR    TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE.         175 

of  the  Mosque  of  Omar.  To  the  north-west  of  the 
mound  and  close  to  the  road  are  ruins  of  houses  and 
several  wells.  The  mound  itself  is  a  mass  of  roughly 
squared  stones  piled  together  in  concentric  squares,  if 
the  expression  be  allowable,  without  cement ;  they  ex- 
tend to  a  depth  of  nearly  twenty  feet.  Among  them 
are  found  dust,  fragments  of  bone,  broken  teeth  of  a 
horse,  potsherds  and  bits  of  glass,  and  here  and  there 
a  little  charcoal.  This  curious  block  of  stones  seems 
to  point  to  some  beacon  station,  for  it  is  difficult  to 
imagine  any  other  purpose  for  which  it  could  have 
been  thus  designed.  A  short  distance  to  the  south  of 
this  mound  are  some  small  ruins  identified  by  Dr. 
Porter  as  Nob,  the  city  of  the  priests,  which  was  de- 
stroyed by  Doeg,  the  Edomite,  at  the  command  of  Saul, 
when  he  was  incensed  with  the  high-priest  for  having 
given  some  bread  to  his  hated  foe  David,  though  for 
my  part  I  cannot  agree  with  his  view.  From  Tell-el- 
Fiil  the  distance  to  the  Damascus  Gate  of  Jerusalem  is 
three  miles.  Scopus  lies  somewhat  to  tlie  left  of  the 
road,  probably  near  the  place  where  the  name  El 
Mesharif,  or  '  The  Look-out  Posts,'  is  still  retained  by 
the  natives ;  this  is  the  exact  translation  of  the  Greek 
Scopus,  and  may  perhaps  be  an  adaptation  of  the 
Hebrew  IVIizpeh,  the  name  being  slightly  extended  to 
allow  of  its  describing  the  situation  of  Titus's  camp. 
The  name  of  the  village  El  Shiifat,  which  lies  in  the 


176        XOTHS  FOR    TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE. 

immediate  vicinity  of  Tell-el-Fiil,  has  somewhat  of  the 
same  meaning  as  Scopus. 

Hotels. — There  are  three ;  nz.  the  Mediterranean, 
kept  by  M.  Hornstein.  Tliis  hotel  was  formerly  near 
the  Damascus  Gate,  but  iu  1871  was  moved  to  a 
new  house  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  Jaffa  Gate 
and  the  English  Church,  and  is  the  best  both  as 
regards  accommodation  and  situation.  Next  comes  the 
Damascus  Hotel,  not  far  from  the  Damascus  Gate,  to 
wliich,  however,  the  American  Hotel  is  nearer.  The 
accommodation  in  these  two  is  much  the  same,  and  the 
prices  of  all  are  nearly  the  same.  In  all  of  them 
arrangements  may  be  made  by  persons  intending  to 
make  a  long  stay. 

Lodgings  may  be  had  in  the  house  of  Max  Ungar, 
a  German  tailor,  whose  shop  is  beneath  the  Medi- 
terranean Hotel. 

Quarters  may  be  found  at  the  Hospice  of  Ten-a 
Santa,  at  the  Prussian  Hospice  of  the  Knights  of  St. 
John,  and  occasionally  at  the  Eussian  buildings  outside 
the  town.  For  those  who  camp  out  the  best  place  is 
between  the  Russian  buildings  and  the  Damascus 
Gate.  Owing  to  the  rapidity  with  wliich  all  the  land 
round  Jerusalem  is  being  enclosed,  an  open  camping 
ground  is  somcwliMt  (lifficult  to  find.  The  silver  key, 
however,  is  :i.s  poU'iit  here  as  elsewhere. 

Money,    Letters. — Circular    notes     and    letters    of 


Jerusalem. 

Damascus. 

Nablus. 

English  sovereign     . 
i  •  French  napoleon  {20  frs.) 

.     120 

126i 

133  N 

.       95 

100^ 

105^ 

{ Turkish  lira     . 

.     109 

115 

121 

si    Turkish  mejidy 
ffi  1       „       beshlik 

.      21J 

23 

24 

•        H 

H 

6|) 

NOTES  FOR    TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE.         177 

credit  can  be  cashed  at  Messrs.  Bergheim's  or  Messrs. 
Spittler's.  The  vahie  of  the  piastre  is  always  more  or 
less  nominal,  as  the  following  table  will  show : — 


Hence  it  will  be  seen  that  the  relative  value  of  the 
coins  is  also  variable.     French,  ItaUan,  Eussian,  Aiis 
trian,  and  Enghsh  silver  are  all  to  a  certain  extent 
current  in  Jerusalem.     A  coin  that  is  not  well  known 
will  not,  however,  pass  for  its  full  value. 

Letters  anive  fortnightly  from  Alexandria  by  Aus- 
trian, French,  and  Eussian  steamers,  and  at  the  same 
intervals  from  Constantinople,  &:c.  English  letters  are 
frequently  sent  to  the  Hotels  or  Consulate  ;  if  not  found 
there  they  must  be  apphed  for  at  the  post-offices. 

The  English  Consulate. — Noel  Temple  Moore,  Esq., 
H.B.M.'s  Consul  for  Palestine.  Chancellier — M.  Jirius 
Salame.  The  Consulate  is  situated  on  the  hill  at  the 
back  of  the  American  Hotel  and  the  Austrian  Hospice. 
The  kindness  and  courtesy  of  H.M.'s  representative  are 
well  known  to  all  travellers  who  have  visited  Jeru- 
salem. From  him,  or,  in  case  of  his  absence,  fi'om  his 
energetic  and  obhging  subordinate,  all  information  can 
be  obtained  as  to  the  practicability  of  any  special  or 
out-of-the-way  route. 


178        NOTES  FOR    TRAVELLERS  IN  PALESTINE. 

The  English  Church. — Church  of  England  service  is 
held  in  Enghsh  every  Sunday  at  10  a.m.  and  6.30  p.m. 
On  Sunday  afternoons  and  on  week-days  there  are 
services  in  German,  Judaso-Spanish,  and  Hebrew  ;  the 
times  of  tliese  services  may  be  learnt  on  apphcation. 

The  Lord  Bishop :  Dr.  Gobat.  Vicar :  Eev.  J. 
Neil,  M.A. 

A  German  Protestant  service  is  held  by  Pastor 
Weser  in  the  chapel  lately  fitted  up  at  the  Morostan — 
the  old  hospital  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John,  given  in 
1869  to  the  King  of  Prussia  by  the  Sultan — and  also 
on  every  alternate  Sunday  afternoon  in  the  English 
Church. 


MOROCCO  AND  THE  MOORS. 


I.  THE   COUNTRY. 

Before  giving  any  det idled  description,  it  may  be  as 
well  to  give  a  sUght  general  sketch  of  the  empire  of 
Morocco,  its  towns,  and  the  different  tribes  that  are 
found  in  various  parts  of  it.  Considering  the  acces- 
sibility of  this  country  it  is  curious  to  see  how  very 
little  is  known  about  it  in  England.  Tangier,  which, 
from  being  the  residence  of  the  representatives  of  the 
different  European  Governments,  is  the  town  of  the 
most  importance  in  the  east  part  of  the  empire,  is  easily 
reached,  being  only  three  or  foiu*  horn's  by  sea  from 
Gibraltar.  The  chmate  of  the  country  is  charming, 
especially  in  winter  and  spring,  and  the  attractions 
offered  to  a  sportsman  or  naturaUst  are  not  few. 

Tangier,  and  occasionally  Tetuan,  seem  the  only 
places  ever  visited  by  travellers,  and  these  but  by  few, 
and  then  only  for  a  day  or  two  ;  from  a  thus  hm^ried 
peep  at  Moorish  life  a  very  erroneous  idea  is  frequently 
formed  both  of  the  people  and  of  the  country.  To 
judge  an  Oriental  or  Mohammedan  correctly  one  must 

N  2 


180  MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS. 

not  measure  him  by  an  European  or  a  Christian 
standard,  but  one  must  try  to  lay  aside  all  prejudices 
and  look  at  liim  from  his  own  point  of  \iew  ;  doing 
thus  one  may  hope  to  form  a  more  correct  estimate  of 
his  character,  but  this  requires  careful  study  and  some 
length  of  acquaintance  with  the  subjects  of  it. 

The  empire  of  Morocco  extends  eastwards  as  far 
as  the  French  frontier  of  Algeria  ;  the  mountainous 
district  stretching  thence  westwards  as  far  as  Tetuan, 
and  lying  between  the  Atlas  Mountains  and  the  Medi- 
terranean, is  called  the  Eif.  It  is  inhabited  by  nu- 
merous tribes,  continually  fighting  amongst  themselves, 
though  owing  an  allegiance — but  scarcely  more  than 
nominal — to  the  vSultan.  They  are  a  brave,  hardy,  and 
lawless  people,  much  as  one  might  fancy  the  Highland 
caterans  to  have  been  a  couple  of  centuries  ago.  They 
are  very  jealous  of  any  stranger  entering  their  tenito- 
ries ;  could  this  be  done  it  would  doubtless  well  repay 
both  the  sportsman  and  naturahst  as  well  as  the  lover 
of  the  picturesque.  These  Rifians  are  a  distinct  race 
from  the  Moors  or  Arabs;  they  are  usually  fair — 
though  of  course  they  become  sunburnt  from  exposure 
— very  fVcciuciitly  liavino-  ])liie  eyes  and  light  hair, 
which  is  an  extremely  rare  thing  to  see  amongst  the 
neighbouring  Moors. 

Their  dialect,  too,  differs  somewhat  from  that  ot 
these  latter.      It  is  most  probable  tliat  they  are  de- 


MOROCCO  AND    THE  MOORS.  181 

scendants  of  those  Vandals  who  under  Genseric  came 
over  from  Europe  to  help  Boniface,  the  Eoman 
governor,  when  he  revolted  a.d,  427,  and  who  were 
almost  destroyed  by  Behsarius  a.d.  533 ;  a  small  por- 
tion only  escaping  by  taking  refuge  in  the  fastnesses  of 
Mount  Atlas. 

The  endurance  shown  by  these  men  is  surprising. 
On  one  occasion  I  rode  some  forty  miles  over  a  very 
bad  mountain  track,  which  was  frequently  nearly  knee- 
deep  in  mud,  while  the  rain  was  falUng  in  torrents, 
accompanied  by  two  of  these  men  on  foot ;  we  took 
about  ten  hours  in  doing  the  distance,  and  though  they 
had  nothing  to  eat  but  a  bit  of  bread  and  a  few  oranges, 
yet  at  the  end  of  the  journey  they  seemed  as  fresh  as  if 
they  had  been  a  few  miles.  When  out  boar-hunting 
the  beaters  will  work  barelegged,  often  under  a  broiling 
sun,  through  the  thickest  brushwood,  seemingly  in- 
different to  the  thorns  and  scrub  which  try  European 
legs  most  severely,  even  when  well  protected  by 
gaiters. 

As  bachelors  these  men  [ire  most  frequently  un- 
mitigated scoundrels ;  more  often  than  not  they  drink, 
rob,  cut  throats,  &c.,  with  great  gusto,  but  on  then* 
marriage  they  change,  not  gradually,  but  their  misdeeds 
become  on  a  sudden  a  thing  of  the  past,  and  they  live 
as  respectable  members  of  society,  and  may  be  de- 
pended upon  as  trusty  men — though  of  coiu'se  in  this, 


182  MOROCCO   AM)    TITE  MOORS. 

as  everytliiiig  else,  there  are  exceptions.  Blood  feuds 
are  strictly  observed  by  them  ;  for  here,  as  in  all 
countries  where  justice  is  connipt  and  legal  punish- 
ments slow  and  uncertain,  retribution  for  a  crime  is 
sure  to  take  the  form  of  personal  vengeance.  Several 
instances  of  these  feuds,  which  are  hereditary,  came 
under  my  notice,  and  the  following  one  will  show  the 
})ertinacity  with  wliich  they  are  adhered  to.  A  young 
man  whose  father  was  murdered  while  he  was  quite  a 
cliild,  [)atiently  wjiited  till  he  was  about  twenty  years 
old,  and  then  took  Ids  gun  and  lay  in  wait  at  the 
cemetery  outside  the  gate  of  Tetuan  and  shot  liis  father's 
luurderer  as  he  was  returning  from  market ;  the  yoimg 
man,  as  usually  hap})ens  in  these  cases,  escaped  into 
the  mountains. 

Considering  the  large  area  of  the  country,  the 
niniihcr  of  the  towns  is  very  small,  as  will  be  sliortly 
shown.  The  population  varies  niiicli  in  llie  different 
districts;  ^vll('r('  water  is  most  abundant,  and  coiise- 
qncntly  sutliciency  of  pasturage  and  facilities  for  culti- 
vation arc  afforded,  there  the  greatest  number  of 
villages  is  to  be  found.  In  the  Eastern  districts,  as 
those  of  Tangier,  Anjorn,  Wadras,  &c.,  and  in  the  Eif, 
the  villages  are  composi^l  of  huts  1)uilt  of  rough  stones 
plastered  with  mud  and  tlmtrhod  and  surrounded  by 
hedges  of  prickly  pears  and  aloes.  Farther  westwards, 
where   the   rountry  is  rolling  prairie  and    their  herds 


MOROCCO  AND    THE  MOOliS.  183 

require  moving  at  certain  seasons  in  order  to  find 
sufficient  pastiu'age,  the  Arabs  live  entirely  in  tents 
made  either  of  goat's  hair,  which  is  the  best  but  most 
expensive,  or  of  matting  woven  from  palmetto-root 
fibre ;  this  can  hardly  be  distinguished  from  the  cocoa- 
nut  matting  so  much  used  in  England.  The  tents  are 
all  dyed  black,  and  are  usually  pitched  in  a  circle,  so 
forming  an  enclosure,  in  which  the  cattle  are  herded  at 
night,  in  safety  from  robbers  and  wild  beasts. 

These  tents  have  no  regular  way  of  entrance,  but 
bulrush  mats  or  curtains  of  the  same  materials  as  those 
of  the  tents  themselves  are  placed  to  keep  out  the 
wind  or  rain,  and  these  being  easily  moved  the  door- 
way can  always  be  put  on  the  leeward  side.  The 
Arabs  seem  at  a  vast  distance  from  any  civilisation  or 
refinement ;  this,  I  fancy,  arises  chiefly  from  two  causes  : 
firstly,  their  complete  isolation,  as  their  intercourse  even 
with  other  tribes  is  very  limited,  and  I  believe  it  to  be 
an  almost  general  rule  for  them  to  marry  one  of  their 
own  tribe  ;  and  secondly,  their  extreme  bigotry  and  fa- 
naticism, for  they  are  very  jealous  of  any  innovation 
either  in  their  religion  or  in  their  way  of  living.  They 
go  upon  the  principles  of '  What  has  been  is,  and  there- 
fore shall  be,'  and  '  What  was  good  enough  for  our 
fathers  is  good  enough  for  us.'  When  they  cultivate 
land  they  make  no  attempt  to  improve  the  soil  by  ma- 
nuring it ;  in  fact,  during  my  stay  in  the  country,  I 


]84  MOROCCO  AND    THE  MOORS. 

never  saw  manure  used  by  a  Moor,  except  once  at 
Rabat,  and  then  I  heard  he  was  using  it  under  direc- 
tions of  a  Christian.     I  of  course  do  not  refer  to  irri- 
gation, as   this  is  well  applied,  and   in   general  use, 
wherever  it  is  possible.     The  usual  way  of  fanning  is 
to  scratch  up  the  soil  to  the  depth  of  a  few  inches  with 
just  such  a  plough  as  is  described  by  Virgil ;  the  only 
piece  of  iron  about  this  machine  is  the  share :  this  is 
always  carefully  carried  home  by  the  labourer  after 
his  day's  work,  generally  slung  round  his  neck  with  a 
bit  of  cord  :  the  plough,  too,  is  so  light  that  the  owner 
may  constantly  be  seen  carrying  the  whole,  even  yoke 
and  all,  home  on  his  shoulders.     The  oxen  are  small, 
often  much  resembling  the  Alderney  kine ;  the  plough- 
man holds  the  single  handle  of  his  plough  in  one  hand, 
wliik'  lie  guides  his  animals  with  a  long  goad,  held  in 
the  other,  not  forgetting  to  use  his  voice,  often  with  no 
very  complimentary   epithets.     The  Arabs   seldom,  if 
ever,  attempt  to  destroy  the  palmetto,  thistles,  and  nu- 
merous bulbs  that  cumber  the  soil,  for  they  say,  '  If  it 
please  God  we  shall  have  a  good  crop  ;  if  He  wills  it 
otherwise,  where  is  the  good  in  our  clearing  the  soil  ? ' 
The  same  utter  disregard  for  the  future  and  its  wants, 
induced  by  the  all-prevaiUng  fatahsm,  shows  itself  with 
re^Mrd  to  everything  else  ;  they  run  in  a  groove  from 
which  nothing  can  turn  them. 

Li  every  dooar,  or  Aral)  villages  there  is  a  tent  or 


MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS.  186 

small  hilt  where  the  children  are  taught  daily ;  the 
Koran  is  the  only  text-book  used,  from  it  they  learn  to 
read  and  also  have  to  learn  the  chief  parts  of  it  by 
heart.  This  is  usually  the  extent  of  an  Arab's  educa- 
tion, but  the  Moors — or  inhabitants  of  the  towns — from 
coming  more  into  contact  with  strangers,  and  thus 
gaining  somewhat  more  enlarged  and  liberal  ideas,  are 
frequently  men  of  superior  education,  considering  the 
very  limited  means  they  have  of  becoming  so. 

Towards  the  interior  of  the  country  conical  straw 
huts  are  much  used  ;  these,  I  believe,  were  mtroduced 
from  the  Soudan  by  the  Bohari,  a  tribe  of  blacks,  who 
for  many  generations  have  formed  the  elite  of  the  Sul- 
tan's body-guard. 

I  shall  now  give  some  account  of  the  towns,  which 
are  few  and  far  between.  I  omit  Mehlla — in  the  llif 
— and  Ceuta,  as  being  Spanish  possessions.  The  first 
town,  then,  to  the  eastward  is  Tetuan,  built  on  a  rising 
ground  about  eight  miles  distant  from  the  Mediterra- 
nean, and  close  to  a  fine  river,  which  at  present  can 
only  be  navigated  by  small  vessels,  on  account  of 
the  bar  at  its  mouth.  The  town  is  surrounded  by 
gardens  and  fruit  orchards;  figs  are  very  abundant, 
and  quantities  are  dried  of  an  excellent  quality ;  the 
almond  and  apricot  trees  grow  much  larger  than  or- 
chard trees  in  England.  Many  of  these  gardens,  how- 
ever, are  still  uncultivuted,  the  trees  and  garden-houses 


ISO  MOnOCfO   JXD    THE   MOORS. 

having  been  destroyed  by  the  Spanish  troops  in  1860 : 
bullets  and  shells  are  still  to  be  found  there — in  fact 
I  have  often  come  across  them  myself  when  out  shoot- 
ing, but  the  natives  are  very  cautious  about  touching 
the  latter,  as  a  short  time  ago  one  exploded  as  it  was 
being  dug  up. 

On  crossing  the  river  to  the  south  of  the  town,  one 
finds  oneself  in  wide  orange  groves,  watered  by  cool 
streams  rushing  down  from  the  lower  Atlas,  whose 
rugged  peaks  tower  one  above  another  into  the  far 
distance  ;  the  higher  summits  frequently  are  covered 
witli  snow,  even  as  late  as  April.  I  hardly  know 
when  these  orange  gardens  are  most  lovely;  perhaps 
when  the  trees  are  white  with  blossoms,  when  the 
air  is  loaded  with  perfume,  and  the  song  of  birds 
and  l)usy  liumming  of  the  bees  create  that  curious 
sound  of  life  from  which  it  is  so  difficult  to  separate 
any  ))articul:ir  note.  Then  it  is  just  what  Milton  must 
have  had  in  his  mind's  eye  when  he  wrote 

Tlie  bee  with  honeyed  thii^h 
That  at  her  flowery  work  doth  sing, 
And  the  waters  murmuring 
With  such  concert  as  they  keep, 
]"'ntice  the  dewy-feather  sleep. 

'I'iicy  arc  beautiful,  too,  when  the  masses  of  golden 
fruit  make  such  a  brilliant  contrast  with  the  rich  dark 
f«>liag(;  which  liere  grows  freely  and  naturally;  no 
branches  arc  io|>ped  and  ])runed  as  one  sees  in  Europe, 


MOROCCO  AXI)    THE  MOORS.  187 

but  thanks  to  the  kindhness  of  soil  and  chmate,  the 
crops  are  none  the  less  abundant,  as  may  be  well  be- 
lieved, when  oranges  sell  in  the  market  at  3<i.  or  4id. 
per  hundred. 

To  the  town  itself,  as  is  usually  the  case  in  this 
countr}^  the  saying  that  '  distance  lends  enchantment 
to  the  view  '  is  fully  applicable.  The  dazzling  white- 
ness of  the  buildings  contrasts  well  with  the  rugged 
grey  mountains  towering  above ;  wliile  the  extreme 
irregularity  of  the  houses,  with  the  many  small 
mosque-towers  scattered  among  them,  adds  much  to 
the  general  picturesque  appearance.  On  entering 
Avithin  tlie  walls,  however,  great  part  of  the  town  is 
found  to  be  in  ruins — never  having  been  rebuilt 
since  the  Spanish  war ;  the  streets  are  narrow,  and, 
especially  in  the  Jewish  quarter,  filthy  in  the  ex- 
treme. Notwithstanding  this,  I  was  glad  to  make 
several  sketches.  On  these  occasions  I  was  always 
surrounded  by  a  Avondering  crowd,  staring  at  me 
open-mouthed,  but  showing  the  utmost  politeness, 
for  the  general  voice  was  lifted  against  anyone  who 
stood  in  my  way  or  tried  to  put  his  fingers  in  my 
paint-box.  The  whispered  remarks  of  the  bystanders 
were  often  highly  amusing,  and  there  was  none  of 
that  jostling  and  crowding  in  which  the  lower,  and 
even  the  higher,  classes  of  Europe  delight.  An  artist 
might  spend  much  time  here  with  advantage,  sketch- 


168  MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS. 

iiig  the  wild  ])iit  picturesque  Eifians,  or  stiidyiiig 
tlie  grand  mountain  scenery,  on  which,  in  this  clear 
air,  the  effects  of  light  at  different  times  of  the  day 
are  indescribably  lovely ;  or  in  exploring  the  crooked 
streets  of  the  town,  full  of  many  a  subject  for  the 
])encil — liere  a  queer  nook,  with  houses  overhanging 
a  fountain  from  which  the  women  are  drawing  water 
in  the  classic-shaped  earthen  jar  ;  there  a  dark  vista 
of  arches  with  gloomy  holes  at  the  sides,  where 
one  can  just  detect  the  dim  figure  of  the  shopkeeper 
sitting  like  a  gigantic  spider  waiting  for  the  flies  to 
come  to  his  web,  for  far  beneath  his  dignity  is  it  to 
call  your  attention  to  his  ware. 

From  these  dark  passages  one  suddenly  turns  into 
a  street  with  rows  of  bright-coloured  English  cottons, 
native  leather  bags  and  pouches,  and  embroidered 
gocxls  hung  out  on  both  sides;  Avhile  above,  a  trellis- 
work  of  cane,  with  vines  creeping  over,  keeps  off  the 
intense  heat  of  the  sun.  Here  one  is  nearly  deafened 
by  tlie  clatter  of  tongues — Moors,  Jews,  Spaniards, 
Arabs,  and  last,  but  not  least,  the  women  wrapped 
up  in  tlicir  haiks  and  wearing  straw  hats  about  a 
yard  in  (hameter,  all  shouting  and  gesticulating  till 
(iiie  thinks  it  must  end  in  blows;  but  no  bargain  can 
be  made  without  a  most  unnecessary  amount  of  noise 
and  l)argaining,  for  a  s]u)pkeei)er  always  asks  a  great 
(leal  more  than   lir  inlond.s  to  take,  |)arti('ularly  when 


MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS.  189 

the  would-be  purchaser  is  a  Christian,  for,  says  he, 
'  If  I  don't  get  it  there  is  nothing  lost,  and  if  I  do 
so  much  is  gained.' 

Here,  as  in  most  of  the  towns,  the  Jews  have  a 
separate  quarter,  the  gate  of  which  is  shut  about 
eight  o'clock  in  the  evening.  The  Tetuan  Jews,  as 
well  as  those  of  Tangier,  speak  Spanish  as  their  lan- 
guage ;  the  service  of  the  synagogues  is  conducted 
in  Spanish,  and  their  rehgious  books  are  also  written 
in  the  same  language,  but  with  Hebrew  letters. 

The  chief  manufactures  of  the  town  consist  in 
guns  and  leather  goods,  of  which  the  chief  are  shppers, 
which  are  exported  to  Alexandria,  where  they  find 
ready  purchasers  in  the  pilgrims  returning  from 
Mecca,  as  by  far  the  largest  number  of  the  Hadji  who 
come  from  the  west  are  inhabitants  of  Morocco.  Each 
trade  in  a  Moorish  town  is  usually  confined  to  certain 
streets ;  for  instance,  one  finds  wliole  streets  of  slipper- 
makers,  or  else  of  leather-dyers,  or  else  gunsmiths,  &c. 
The  guns  made  here  are  very  curious,  having  most 
intricate  flint-locks,  while  the  stocks  are  often  beauti- 
fully inlaid  with  silver  and  footed  with  ivory.  The 
'  first-class  '  barrels  are  embossed  with  gold  and  silver 
in  very  delicate  patterns.  The  barrels  are  made  of 
English  iron,  and  are  twisted  ;  they  are  very  light  for 
their  length,  which  is  often  excessive.  I  have  one 
now  in  my  possession  G  ft.  '1  in   long,  exclusive  of  the 


IJM)  MOROCCO   A XI)    THE   MOORS. 

Stock,  whicli  is  some  15  in.  longer.  I  was  told  by 
the  gunsmith  of  whom  I  bought  it  that  sometimes 
lie  had  to  make  them  two  spans  longer. 

A  great  many  coloured  tiles  are  made  here.     They 
are  very  small,  and   are  worked  into  most  intricate 
and    effective  patterns   in  walls   and   flooring  of  the 
liouses  and  mosques.     There  is  a  similar  manufacture 
at  Fas,  whence  it  is  very  probable  that  the  tiles  were 
brought  which  still  remain   in  the  Alhambra.      The 
[)otters  who  make   these   tiles   and   the   elegant   an- 
tique-shaped water-jars  found  in  common  use  every- 
where are  true  troglodytes.    •  The  caves  they  live  in 
are  found  in  a  kind  of  tufii  rock,  to  the   soutli  and 
west  of  the  town,  which  stands  on   a  plateau  of  this 
rock,  and  vary  much  in  size,   the  larger  being  used 
for  workshops  and  stores,  which   are  shared  by  nu- 
merous owls  and  now  and  then  a  few  rabbits ;  while 
by  partly  building   up  the  entrances  of  the  smaller 
ones,   they  turn    them    into  capital   dwellings.      The 
wheel  tliat  is  in  use  is  most  primitive  ;    but   one  of 
the    j)(>tters   told    me   he  could   turn  cut   a   hundred 
hu-ge  jars,  standing  some  2  ft.  high,  per  diem.     The 
vahie,  however,  of  these  would  not  be  more  than  Id. 
or  %l.  cMfh,  so  tliat  it  is  a  most  laborious  trade,  as 
till'  j)ott('r  has  to  do  everything  himself;    he  has  to 
collect  and  mix  the  clay,  gather  fuel,  make  and  burn 
liis  wares,  and  often  even  sell  them  himself.     There 


MOROCCO  AND    THE  MOORS.  101 

is  a  good  deal  of  traffic  by  means  of  feluccas  between 
Gibraltar  and  Martine,  the  port  of  Tetuan,  and  also 
by  beasts  of  burden — the  only  mode  of  conveyance, 
as  the  use  of  wheels  is  totally  unknown  in  the 
country — with  Tangier,  which  is  about  forty  miles 
distant,  the  road,  or  rather  track,  often  httle  better 
than  the  bed  of  a  torrent,  lying  for  the  most  part 
through  the  mountains.  About  half  way  there  is  a 
Fondak  (or  caravanserai),  a  large  square  walled 
enclosure.  Inside  there  are  arcades  round  three 
sides,  and  small  rooms  on  the  fourth.  It  was  built 
a  few  years  ago  by  the  Government  for  the  protection 
of  travellers.  It  may  be  useful,  but  is  most  care- 
fully to  be  avoided  by  all  but  those  who,  like  the 
natives,  are  proof  to  the  attacks  of  certain  ravenous 
insects  who,  as  is  always  the  case  in  similar  places, 
were  undoubtedly  numerous  enough  to  eject  any  hu- 
man being  from  the  building  were  they  but  minded 
to  combine  and  do  so. 

The  town  of  Tangier  is  prettily  situated  on  a 
steep  slope  at  the  western  point  of  a  large  crescent- 
shaped  bay.  The  view  from  above  the  town  is  most 
lovely ;  on  a  bright  day  the  coast  of  Spain  from 
Cape  Trafalgar  to  Gibraltar  is  most  distinct,  while 
the  peculiar  clearness  of  the  air  gives  the  utmost 
brilliancy  of  colouring  to  the  whole  view,  which  on 
the  African  side  comprises  the  rugged  purple-tinted 


192  MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS. 

peaks  of  Apes  llill  and  tlie  chain  of  the  Lower 
Atlas  gradually  softening  and  melting  away  into  the 
far  distance. 

The  town  is  of  considerable  interest,  and  is  of 
great  antiquity,  being  the  ancient  Tingis,  the  chief 
town  of  the  rich  Roman  province  of  Tingitania. 
Near  it  are  considerable  remains  of  Roman  work ; 
coins,  too,  are  not  unfrequently  found,  but  it  is  to  be 
feared  that  many  of  silver  or  gold,  as  well  as  orna- 
ments of  those  metals,  have  found  their  way  to  the 
melting-pot  of  some  Jew,  who  probably  would  buy 
them  Irom  an  ignorant  Arab  for  a  mere  trifle. 

In  tlie  seventeenth  century  it  belonged  to  the 
English,  being  part  of  the  dowry  of  the  wife  of 
Charles  II.,  and  was  held  by  them  till  1684,  when 
they  gave  it  up,  destroying  at  the  same  time  many 
of  the  fortifications  and  the  mole,  which  latter  there 
is  now  some  talk  of  rebuilding.  If  this  were  done 
the  htu'bour  would  be  greatly  improved,  as  at  pre- 
sent all  merchandise  has  to  be  transferred  from  the 
steamers  to  small  boats,  and  then  carried  ashore  by 
men.  Passengers  have  to  undergo  the  same  plea- 
sant process,  which  is  made  worse  by  the  heavy  surf 
which  frequently  breaks  in  the  bay. 

There  is  here,  as  well  as  in  the  other  towns,  the 
custt)ni  nj"  closing  tlie  gates  of  the  city  from  noon 
till   -J    I'.M.    .Ml    Friday.     This  is   said    to  be  done   on 


MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS.  193 

account  of  an  old  tradition,  which  tells  that  the 
Christians  will  try  to  surprise  the  towns  on  that  day- 
while  the  true  believers  are  at  mosque. 

Travelling  westwards  along  the  coast,  one  comes 
to  the  town  of  Arzila,  about  forty  miles  from  Tan- 
gier, which  is  now  little  better  than  a  walled  village  ; 
the  streets  are  very  narrow,  and  simply  filthy,  as 
numbers  of  cattle  are  brought  inside  the  walls  for 
safety  at  night. 

About  five-and-twenty  miles  further  comes  La- 
raiche,  built  on  a  steep  cliff  at  the  mouth  of  a  large 
river,  which,  however,  can  only  at  times  be  entered 
even  by  small  craft,  as  the  bar  is  very  dangerous. 
When  the  sea  appeared  quite  calm  1  have  seen  the 
waves  curlino;  over  on  the  bar  twelve  or  fourteen 
feet  in  height.  What  it  must  be  in  bad  weather 
can  easily  be  imagined.  The  small  town  of  Mehi^ 
deyeh  lies  between  Laraiche  and  Salee.  This  latter 
is  really  the  same  town  as  Eabat,  being  on  the  north 
side  of  the  river,  while  Rabat  is  on  the  southern 
side.  Very  handsome  carpets,  much  resembling  the 
Turkish,  are  manufactured  here,  haiks  (a  soft  long 
kind  of  shawls  worn  both  by  men  and  women),  and 
a  few  guns  and  swords  arc  also  made,  but  the  trade 
is  small  compared  to  wliat  it  might  be  were  the 
river  navigable  ;  but  the  bar,  if  possible,  is  worse 
than  that  of  Laraiche. 

0 


194  MOROCCO  AXn    THE  MOOIiS. 

Casablanca  {Arahice  Dar-el-baida)  is  the  next  town, 
then  Azimor  or  Mulei-bon-Shaib  Azimor — so  called 
from  a  prince  of  that  name  who  is  buried  there — is 
a  small  Moorish  town  near  Mazagan  (J'deedah),  which, 
witli  Safi  and  Mogador  (Suerah),  are  towns  of  some 
imi)ortance ;  European  vice-consuls  and  merchants 
residing  at  each. 

In  the  interior  of  Morocco  proper,  the  only  towns 
seem  to  be  Fas,  Morocco,  Meknas,  and  Wazan.  The 
two  former  are  the  capitals  of  the  country,  and  the 
Sultan  usually  divides  his  time  between  them,  occasion- 
ally coming  down  to  spend  the  summer  at  Eabat. 
Most  of  the  towns  on  the  coast,  though  now  of  no  im- 
portance whatever,  have  extensive  Portuguese  ruins, 
which  show  that  during  their  occupation  by  that  people 
their  positions  were  much  higher.  At  Arzila  most 
parts  of  the  walls  and  gateways  are  Portuguese,  and 
the  greater  jiortion  of  a  church  is  still  standing.  At 
Azimor  too  there  are  many  ruins  :  one  of  a  church  is 
used  as  a  i)owdcr  magazine,  and  amongst  others  there 
are  marble  sills  to  the  gateways  of  the  town ;  these 
stones  are  deeply  worn  with  the  marks  of  wheels, 
in  some  cjuses  to  a  depth  of  five  inches,  showing  their 
age,  and  that  they  are  remains  of  some  former  civiHsa- 
tinn,  [)erliaps  even  before  that  of  tlie  Portuguese,  for 
at  j)resont,  as  I  have  said  before,  the  Moors  are  totally 
ignorant  of  the  us(^  of  wheeled  carriages  of  any  kind. 


MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS.  195 

The  finest  Portuguese  remains,  however,  are  at 
Mazagan,  where  the  town  is  moated  on  one  side  and 
partly  on  the  second,  having  the  sea  on  the  remaining 
two  sides  ;  the  walls  are  about  forty  to  fifty  feet  in 
height,  and  in  some  places  more  than  forty  feet  thick, 
and  very  solidly  built.  There  is  a  high  watch-tower 
and  ruins  of  a  buildincj  said  to  have  been  that  of  the 
Inquisition,  also  of  a  church,  but  the  most  interesting 
of  all  is  an  underground  reservoir,  about  130  by  100 
feet,  having  a  groined  stone  roof  supported  by  four 
rows  of  pillars,  the  masonry  of  Avhich  is  as  perfect  as 
on  the  day  when  it  was  built.  A  circular  opening  in 
the  centre  of  the  roof  admits  light.  The  water  always 
stands  at  a  depth  of  from  fi.ve  to  seven  feet,  and  the 
whole  height  is  about  fourteen  or  fifteen  feet.  There 
is  a  subterraneous  passage  and  flight  of  stairs,  by  which 
the  water  is  reached.  This  curious  cistern  is  situated 
under  the  garden  of  Mr.  Kedmond,  a  resident  English 
merchant,  who  kindly  allowed  me  to  see  it. 

Besides  the  Eifians,  the  Arabs — dwellers  in  the 
country — and  the  Moors  who  live  in  the  towns,  we 
find  the  Berbers  and  the  Shellouhs,  kindred  races  living 
in  the  Atlas  Mountains,  the  former  towards  the  east,  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Fas,  and  t]ie  latter  towards  the 
Atlantic ;  they  are  a  brave  and  almost  independent 
race,  probably  descendants  of  tlie  aboriginal  Maurita- 
nians.     There  are  also  two  unsubjected  tribes  nearer 

0  2 


196  MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS. 

tlie  coast,  viz.,  tlie  Zinioiirs,  wlio  live  in  the  forest 
of  Maimora,  which  hes  between  Mehideyeh  and  Salee 
and  stretches  a  considerable  distance  inland ;  and  the 
Zyars,  wlio  live  to  the  S.  and  S.W.  of  Eabat ;  when 
not  engaged  in  tlie  cultivation  of  their  crops  they 
make  continual  forays  even  up  to  the  gates  of  Eabat 
and  pillage  the  caravans  passing  from  that  place  to 
Dar-el-Baida.  Along  this  route — as  well  as  in  other 
parts  of  the  country — the  government  has  built  nu- 
merous kashas,  or  fortified  buildings,  from  50  to  300 
yards  square,  the  walls  being  usually  about  25  feet 
high,  and  loopholed. 

Many  of  these  kashas  are  the  residences  of  kaids 
or  governors  of  provinces,  who  according  to  their 
wealth  maintain  so  many  soldiers.  Of  these  kaids 
and  their  followers  I  shall  afterwards  have  more  to 
say.  Ill  addition  to  the  parts  I  have  mentioned,  the 
empire  comprises,  on  the  south  of  the  Atlas,  the  districts 
of  Tafilett,  Draa,  and  Soos,  of  which  the  latter  borders 
on  the  Atlantic. 

II.  THE   PEOPLE. 

Tlic  Moors  are  essentially  a  polite  people:  wild  and 
lawless  iLs  tliey  are,  this  may  seem  improbable,  but  it 
is  none  tlie  less  a  fact  which  takes  its  rise  from  every 
man's  being  really  on  an  equality.  A  slave  will  speak 
to    liis    master,  sometimes    cutting  a   joke  with,  and 


I 


MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS.  107 

even  at  him,  with  the  same  freedom  and  absence  of 
all  servile  constraint  as  he  would  when  speaking  to 
a  fellow  slave.  For  all  this  they  are  never  wanting 
in  respect.  The  only  case  that  I  know  at  all  paral- 
lel to  this  is  in  a  Spanish  servant,  to  whom  a  master 
may  speak  as  to  an  equal,  but  who  for  all  that  will 
never  forget  his  place,  not  holding  to  the  proverb, 
'  Famiharity  breeds  contempt.'  As  an  instance  of  the 
equal  footing  all  Moors  are  on,  the  following  is  suf- 
ficient. When  I  came  to  an  Arab  dooar  the  sheikh 
would  come  and  sit  in  my  tent  for  some  little  time,  and 
would  then  go  and  finish  up  his  evening  in  my  servant's 
tent,  drinking  coffee — or  by  preference  green  tea. 

Cofiee  is  usually  considered  to  be  the  drink  of 
the  Arabs,  but  over  the  whole  of  Morocco  green  tea 
is  considered  a  much  greater  luxury ;  it  is  too  expen- 
sive for  the  very  poor  to  drink,  and  one  seldom  sees  it 
nnich  in  the  coffee-liouses  wliere  this  class  of  men 
resort,  and  where  they  sit  for  hours  smoking  kief — 
the  Indian  hem}) — sometimes  gambling  with  dice  or 
draughts,  and  drinking  colTee  nearly  as  thick  as  arrow- 
root and  very  sweet.  I  cannot  help  thinking  that  this 
way  of  drinking  the  dregs  of  the  coflee  has  some  efiect 
of  neutralising  the  very  injurious  properties  of  the  kief. 
The  habitual  kief  smoker  is  always  one  who  has  begun 
young,  and  the  enervating  and  degrading  efiects  of  this 
drug  are  always  visible  in  the  ])allid  countenance — 


108  MOROCCO  AND    THE  MOORS. 

much  like  that  of  an  opium  eater,  but  less  yellow — and 
the  unnatural,  china-like  appearance  of  the  white  of 
the  eye.  If  an  adult  takes  to  smoking  this  herb  regu- 
larly it  is  said  that  it  is  almost  certain  to  cause  his 
death  within  seven  or  eight  months,  and  though  a 
strong  constitution  may  defy  its  effects  for  some  time, 
yet  it  is  none  the  less  sure  of  causmg  death  in  the  end. 
A  H^  smoker  who  hasbegim  young  will  live  for  seve- 
ral years,  but  will  rarely  attain  even  to  middle  age. 
The  use  of  this  drug  is  almost  entirely  confined  to 
the  lower  orders.  Opium  eaters  are  found  among  the 
Moors,  but  not  very  frequently ;  speaking  from  my  own 
experience  I  only  came  across  two  or  three  cases. 

On  paying  a  visit  to  a  rich  Moor  or  well-to-do 
sheikh,  the  first  thing  he  offers  to  his  visitors — at  all 
times  of  the  day — is  green  tea,  which  is  compounded 
ill  the  following  way.  The  tea  is  first  washed  with 
a  small  quantity  of  water  in  the  teapot,  as  the  Moors 
consider  the  colouring  matter  used  for  green  tea  to  be 
injurious ;  this  is  poured  off  and  the  teapot  is  nearly 
filled  with  huge  lumps  of  white  sugar,  the  more  used 
the  greater  honour  to  the  guest ;  it  is  then  filled  up 
with  water,  and  poured  into  small  tumblers,  usually  of 
coloured  and  gilt  French  glass.  The  next  process  ge- 
nerally is  to  put  in  a  small  bunch  t)f  herbs,  lemon 
thyme,  mint,  and  such  like,  which  make  the  second 
brew   a    kind   (jf  very   sweet   tisane.      The   rules   of 


MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS.  199 

politeness  require  one  to  drink  at  least  tliree  or  four 
glasses,  wliicli  at  first  I  found  rather  trying,  but  I  soon 
acquired  quite  a  liking  for  it,  especially  when  coming 
in  tired  and  thirsty  from  a  long  and  hot  ride. 

By  the  rules  of  Arab  hospitality  a  rich  kaid,  or 
sheikh,  is  bound  to  entertain  a  traveller  for  three  days ; 
no  money  is  ever  taken  for  cooked  meat — in  fact  it 
would  be  considered  very  impolite  to  offer  it.  The 
following  instance  of  a  reception  by  a  rich  kaid  will 
suffice  to  show  the  usual  style.  On  my  arriving  at  the 
kasba  I  was  shown  a  courtyard  where  I  could  pitch 
my  tent,  as  I  preferred  tliat  to  a  room  which  was 
offered  me  as  less  likely  to  be  inhabited.  Soon  after 
my  tent  was  })itched  a  soldier  came  with  a  packet  of 
candles,  a  loaf  of  sugar,  and  a  })acket  of  green  tea,  and 
said  tliat  the  kaid  would  soon  send  me  dinner.  The 
soldier  of  course  received  a  douceur,  and  soon  returned 
with  some  corn  for  my  horses.  Dinner  made  its  ap- 
pearance about  eight  o'clock — tlie  usual  time — and 
consisted  of  stew,  konskousson,  and  a  native  curry. 
Next  morning  an  equally  liberal  breakfast  was  sup- 
plied. Of  course  the  treatment  varies  according  to 
the  wealth  of  the  host.  A  very  poor  sheikh  will  be 
able  to  give  nothing,  but  has  always  butter,  eggs,  and 
fowls  to  sell,  usually  cheap  enough  ;  fowls  being  worth 
about  Qd.  and  eggs  2  to  6  for  Id. 

The  standing  dish  of  the  country  is  koiiskousson. 


200  MOROCCO   AXI)   THE  MOORS. 

which  is  made  of  flour  rubbed  with  a  damped  hand 
either  on  a  stone  or  through  a  sieve  made  of  perforated 
parchment  till  it  assumes  the  appearance  of  millet. 

These  grains  when  dried  may  be  kept  for  a  great 
length  of  time  ;  to  cook  it,  it  must  be  steamed,  which  is 
done  by  putting  it  in  a  basin  well  pierced  at  the  bottom 
and  which  covers  the  mouth  of  a  large  earthen  water 
jar,  which  is  then  put  on  the  fire.  Sometimes  meat  or 
chickens  are  cooked  with  it,  as  well  as  some  vegetables 
and  dried  grapes,  but  the  way  I  like  it  best  is  the  Arab 
fashion  of  putting  a  lump  of  fresh  butter  in  the  middle, 
and  then  pouring  a  quantity  of  milk  into  it.  When 
prepared  thus  it  tastes  very  much  Hke  extremely  good 
Scotch  porridge. 

Among  the  richer  classes  some  of  the  cookery  is 
excellent;  stews  with  wild  artichoke  in  them  and 
flavoured  with  cumin  seed  and  red  peppers,  are  some 
of  the  best ;  they  make  very  good  sweetmeats  too, 
using  a  great  deal  of  honey  in  them,  and  flavouring 
with  roses,  almonds,  musk,  &c.  In  the  honey-produc- 
ing districts  the  Arabs  are  very  fond  of  eating  it 
melted  up  with  fresh  butter ;  in  this  case  it  is  sent  in 
hot,  in  a  plate  or  bowl,  into  which  each  person  dips 
his  piece  of  bread. 

In  the  towns  the  bread  is  good  and  marvellously 
light;  it  is  .sold  in  loaves  very  hke  a  large  bun:  Some 
bread  is  made  from  Indian  corn ;  it  is  sweet,  heavy  and 


MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS.  201 

clammy,  and  though  much  cheaper  than  the  other  is 
but  httle  used.  The  Arab  bread  is  very  different  from 
that  sold  in  the  towns,  being  made  in  large,  round,  flat 
girdle-cakes,  very  heavy,  coarse,  and  generally  contain- 
ing a  large  proportion  of  grit  from  the  mill-stones. 
More  indigestible  stuff  I  never  saw,  and  without  that 
best  of  all  sauces,  '  Hunger,'  it  would  not  be  possible  to 
eat  much  of  it.  The  natives,  however,  when  they  have 
a  chance,  get  through  a  wonderful  quantity  of  it,  and 
as  for  their  capacity  of  stowing  away  kouskousson  it  is 
simply  marvellous.  I  have  often  seen  my  three  men 
finish  up  with  seeming  ease  a  dish  of  it,  the  twentieth 
part  of  which  had  completely  satisfied  my  own  appe- 
tite. An  Arab  can  go  for  a  length  of  time  without 
food,  for  as  a  rule  he  only  eats  at  sunrise  and  sunset, 
sometimes  having  a  piece  of  bread  or  a  little  fruit  in 
the  middle  of  the  day.  This  enables  them  to  observe 
Eamadan  with  more  ease  than  if  they  were  accustomed 
to  eat  a  regular  meal  in  the  daytime.  Spirits  and 
wine  are  unknown  amongst  them,  though  in  the  towns 
some  of  the  lax  Moors  obtain  them  from  the  Christians 
and  Jews.  These  latter  make  wines  and  also  spirits 
which  they  distil  from  the  berries  of  the  arbutus  as  well 
as  from  figs  and  raisins.  Drunkenness  is  very  rare 
indeed  amongst  the  Mohammedans,  though  the  Jews, 
especially  at  some  of  their  festivals,  are  by  no  means 
averse  to  a  drop  of  good  Hquor. 


202  MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS. 

Supei-stition  in  various  forms  has  a  very  strong 
hold  upon  tlie  minds  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  country, 
both  natives  and  Jews;  the  behef  in  the  evil  eye 
seems  to  be  quite  as  prevalent  even  as  in  Italy.  I 
hetu'd  of  one  instance  which  happened  on  a  fete  day, 
during  the  powder-play  and  feats  of  horsemanship 
with  which  such  occasions  are  celebrated,  which  shows 
how  common  and  how  deeply  rooted  the  belief  is. 
A  man  who  was  accredited  with  the  possession  of 
this  mali<ni  influence  said  to  another  who  was  stand- 
ing  near  him,  'How  well  So-and-so  is  riding,  and 
how  well  he  manages  his  horse ! '  The  man  was 
almost  immediately  thrown  and  severely  hurt  by 
his  fall,  and  the  accident  was  universally  attri- 
buted to  the  evil  eye.  The  remedy  used  was  curious, 
namely,  sour  milk.  The  man,  however,  did  not  re- 
cover. 

The  children  are  often  made  to  wear  a  blue 
bead  round  their  necks  as  a  charm  against  this  evil 
power,  while  the  Jews  paint  an  open  hand  on  their 
doors  and  walls — especially  at  the  time  of  any  feast, 
as  a  marriage  or  birthday  festival — and  hang  up  small 
brazen  liands  in  their  houses  or  with  other  anmlets 
round  their  children's  necks. 

Mesmerism  also  seems  known  to  some  of  the 
Arabs.  I  liave  heard  that  in  the  interior  the  women 
use  it  as  a  means  of  quieting  their  babies  and  rehev- 


MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS.  203 

ing  headache.^  Last  year,  while  camping  on  the 
road  to  Tetuan,  one  of  the  muleteers — as  I  was  after- 
wards told — was  seized  with  violent  cramp  all  over 
his  body.  A  mountaineer  who  happened  to  be  there 
made  passes  over  him  as  a  mesmerist  would  do,  and 
the  man  went  to  sleep,  and  when  he  awoke  was  per- 
fectly free  from  pain.  Whether  this  was  true  mes- 
merism, or  whether  the  patient  believed  in  it  as  a 
charm  and  was  so  influenced,  I  cannot  venture  to 
say.  Charms  are  in  constant  use ;  the  commonest 
form  in  cases  of  illness  is  a  piece  of  paper  on  which 
is  drawn  a  figm'e  consisting  of  cross  lines  forming  a 
certain  number  of  squares,  and  in  the  middle  of  each 
one  of  these  some  letter  or  character  is  inscribed. 
This  is  either  worn  by  the  patient,  or  in  other  cases 
thrown  away,  and  in  that  case  the  belief  is  that  the 
illness  will  pass  to  whoever  takes  the  paper  up  and 
opens  it.  I  found  a  charm  of  this  kind  tied  up  with 
string  and  pegged  into  a  crack  of  the  wall  in  the 
Fondak  where  I  was  staying  at  Morocco.  I  was  just 
going  to  take  it  down  and  look  at  it,  when  a  man 
standing  by  advised  me  not  to  do  so.  A  well-edu- 
cated Moor,  however,  who  came  up,  and  who  was 
evidently  above  such  superstitions,  tore  it  to  pieces. 

^  Headache  cannot  be  frequent,  as  in  the  country  the  Arabs  go  with 
their  heads  fully  exposed  to  the  sun  ;  the  onlj'  precaution  taken  being  to 
tie  a  cord  of  camel's  hair,  or  sometimes  only  of  grass,  tightly  round  the 
temples. 


204  MOROCCO  AXD   THE  MOORS. 

I  was  never  able  to  fiud  any  trace  of  a  belief  ia 
what  we  call  ghosts,  that  is,  of  spirits  in  huwan  form, 
though  tlie  belief  in  jins,  or  spirits  in  the  shape  of 
animals,  who  are  usually  evil,  and  generally  haunt 
waste  places  and  deserted  houses,  is  universal.  In 
Tetuan  a  part  of  the  Basha's  palace  is  not  lived  in, 
as  it  is  said  to  be  haunted  by  two  jins  in  the  form 
of  gigantic  camels,  which  of  a  night  take  their  stand 
in  the  Patio  and  reach  to  the  gallery  which  runs 
round  the  court  and  is  only  about  twenty  feet 
from  the  ground.  In  the  marshes  near  the  same 
town  the  booming  of  the  bittern  is  considered  to  be 
the  voice  of  a  jin  portending  a  bad  season.  At  Tan- 
gier, again,  there  is  a  house  a  short  distance  outside 
the  walls,  pleasantly  situated  in  an  orange  garden, 
which  is  untenable  from  being  haunted  by  a  j/«, 
which  here  takes  the  shape  of  a  great  black  bull 
with  flaming  eyes,  which  forcibly  ejects  all  intruders 
after  dusk.  So  at  least  the  story  goes  ;  but  at  all 
events  no  one  will  hire  the  house.  I  heard  several 
similar  stories,  but  in  every  case  the  demon  took 
the  form  of  some  animal,  never  that  of  a  human 
])eing. 

The  Moors  imagine  that  these  jiua  are  to  be  found 
everywhere.  They  are  of  a  knavish  disposition,  for 
one  day  on  returning  to  my  tents  I  found  my  head- 
man   suflL-ring  from   an    aguisli  attack,  and    thinking 


MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOOES.  205 

himself  very  ill.  I  asked  him  what  was  the  matter, 
and  after  some  trouble  I  made  out  he  was  so  ill  be- 
cause he  had  trod  on  a  devil !  However,  I  found 
quinine  a  very  effectual  means  of  laying  it. 

Other  superstitions  remain  in  the  country  which 
seem  relics  of  some  ancient  barbaric  faith  ;  for  in- 
stance, in  some  parts  of  the  country  the  women  go 
in  procession  round  the  newly-sown  corn  lands,  waving 
flags,  with  wild  chants  and  gestures,  running  and 
screaming  like  very  lunatics,  in  order,  as  they  believe, 
to  avert  all  evil  from  the  upspringing  crops.  Often, 
too,  in  the  gardens  I  noticed  ram's  horns  hung  on 
the  fruit  trees,  more  especially  on  the  pomegranates. 
Upon  enquiry  I  found  that  they  were  used  as  a  charm 
to  insure  a  good  yield  of  fruit. 

On  the  fig  trees  it  is  usual  to  hang  strings  of 
the  fruit  threaded  on  a  palmetto  leaf.  Without  this 
they  consider  that  the  crop  will  come  to  no  good. 

I  noticed  another  ludicrous  custom  when  out  shoot- 
ing. My  soldier,  whom  as  a  capital  sportsman  I 
always  took  with  me,  used  of  course  to  cut  the  throat 
of  everything  I  shot,  as  all  Moslems  do ;  but  in  addi- 
tion to  this  he  observed  a  curious  custom,  the  mean- 
ing of  which  I  was  never  able  to  find  out,  namely, 
whenever  I  shot  a  hare  or  rabbit  he  would  first  cut 
its  throat,  then  pull  off  its  tail,  wave  it  three  times 
round   his    head,  spit  upon   it,   and    throw  it   away. 


20G  MOROCCO  AXD   THE  MOORS. 

Why  these  animals  alone  should  be  so  treated  I  can- 
not imagine,  for  I  never  heard  of  any  ceremony  of 
the  kind  being  performed  on  any  other  creature. 

Mid:?ummer  night's  eve  is  observed  with  certain 
ceremonies,  more  particularly  in  lighting  huge  bon- 
fires wherever  fuel  is  obtainable.  The  rival  towns 
of  Eabat  and  Salee  try  who  can  pile  up  the  largest 
fire,  collecting  their  wood  and  materials  for  weeks 
beforehand.  The  effect  must  be  very  pretty  when 
these  fires  are  lighted,  as  the  two  towns  are  only 
separated  by  a  river,  which  on  the  Eabat  side  is  over- 
hung by  piles  of  irregular  white  buildings,  while  on 
the  Salee  side  stretches  of  white  sand  reach  up  to 
the  town,  which  lies  much  lower  than  its  rival. 

When  there  has  been  a  continued  drought,  and 
rain  is  much  needed  for  the  crops,  the  Arabs  are 
accustomed  to  make  solemn  processions  praying  for 
rain,  and  to  sacrifice  a  sheep  at  the  tomb  of  some 
favourite  santon.  When  this  has  no  effect,  if  any 
Jews  happen  to  be  at  liand  they  are  sent  out  to  })ray 
for  rain,  for,  say  the  Mohammedans,  the  prayers  of 
a  Jew  are  so  distasteful  to  Allah  that,  sooner  than 
hear  them  pray,  he  will  send  what  they  ask  for. 

A  shcej)  or  goat  is  frequently  sacrificed  by  a 
j)er.sun  when  asking  some  great  favour  of  a  superior. 
I  was  staying  in  the  house  of  one  of  the  vice-consuls, 
when  some  men  wlio  had  been    intercedini?   for   an 


MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS.  207 

imprisoned  relative  came  at  night  and  sacrificed  a 
sheep  at  the  street  door.  The  consul's  servants  heard 
a  knocking,  but  were  too  lazy  or  frightened  to  go 
to  the  door  ;  so  in  the  morning  nothing  was  found 
but  a  pool  of  blood,  as  some  sharp  neighbour  had 
been  beforehand  and  carried  off  the  sheep. 

The  system  of  giving  presents  to  those  in  autho- 
rity is  universal  amongst  the  Moors.  In  this  way 
the  kaids  often  get  very  rich ;  but  certainly  when 
things  are  not  given  them  they  tliink  nothing  of  taking 
them,  so  that  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  their 
riches  increase. 

The  system  of  government  is  a  system  of  squeez- 
ing from  highest  to  lowest.  The  Arabs  are  squeezed 
by  the  sheikhs,  the  sheikhs  by  the  kaids,  these  by  the 
greater  kaids,  who  are  governors  of  districts,  and 
these  again  by  the  Sultan.  Whenever  a  man  gets 
a  httle  money  together  he  dares  not  show  it — he  buries 
it.  In  this  way  great  quantities  of  coin  must  be  lost, 
for  a  man  will  say  when  he  is  ill  and  expecting  to 
die,  '  I  may  perchance  recover,  and  if  I  do  I  shall 
never  have  any  good  from  my  money  if  I  tell  my 
son  where  it  is  hidden.'  And  so  a  man  will  frequently 
die  who  is  supposed  to  be  worth  a  great  deal,  yet 
none  of  his  money  can  be  found. 

The  wealth  of  some  of  the  kaids  is  enormous.     I 
heard  of  one  who  was  said  to  be  worth  some  three 


208  MOROCCO  AXD   THE  MOORS. 

million  dollars.  Tliis  is  probably  somewhat  exag- 
gerated, but  his  son  has  a  very  large  kasba,  and 
maintains  five  or  six  hundred  soldiers.  In  Haha, 
near  Mogador,  the  late  kaid  was  said  to  be  worth 
nearly  as  much.  The  richest  man  in  Morocco  is  said 
to  be  the  Shereef  of  Wazdn,  who  is  the  greatest 
santon  in  the  country,  being  most  directly  descended 
from  the  Prophet.  When  a  new  Sultan  is  installed 
at  Fas,  the  chief  religious  duties  connected  with  the 
induction  devolve  upon  him.  Wlierever  he  goes 
people  flock  together  from  all  parts  to  bring  him 
presents,  chiefly  in  money.  I  heard  of  one  woman 
who  gave  him  ten  thousand  dollai's  for  his  blessing. 
Though  naturally  an  intelligent  man,  under  the  de- 
pressive influences  of  the  government  he  is  now  simply 
a  sensual  voluptuar}%  much  addicted  to  champagne. 

The  government  is  totally  averse  to  any  change. 
I  will  give  one  instance  that  will  show  wliat  bigoted 
folly  the  Sultan  is  capable  of  There  is  a  wide  river 
at  Rabat,  over  which  everytliing  has  to  be  ferried 
%  in  small  boats.  A  European  engineer  made  some 
calculations,  and  offered  to  build  a  bridge,  levy  a 
small  toll,  and  at  the  end  of  ten  years  make  the 
bridge  a  present  to  the  Sultan.  '  No,'  said  this  en 
lightened  monarch  ;  '  it  would  throw  some  two  hun- 
dred ferrymen  out  of  employ!'  And  so  he  would 
have  nothing  to  do  with  the  project. 


MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS.  209 

Again,  I  was  assured  on  good  authority  that 
the  Sultan  has  sufficient  corn  in  his  meiamors,  or 
underground  granaries,  to  feed  the  whole  popula- 
tion for  three  years.  During  the  late  time  of  dis- 
tress, or  almost  famine,  none  was  brought  out ; 
when  it  was  found  to  be  getting  mouldy  and  use- 
less, a  little  was  occasionally  sold.  The  good  corn 
went  to  feed  the  kaids  and  the  soldiers,  for  if  the 
people  starved  a  little,  why  they  would  be  less  for- 
midable in  case  of  a  revolution.  The  main  object 
of  all  those  in  authority  seems  to  be  to  collect  as 
much  property  as  they  can  by  hook  or  by  crook. 
To  show  the  extent  of  open  peculation  that  goes  on 
at  Morocco,  I  will  give  a  slight  sketch  of  the  Askar, 
or  regular  troops,  and  their  management.  These  men 
— officers  as  well  as  privates — receive  the  magnificent 
pay  of  2  okeah  (od.  English  money)  per  diem  ;  for 
this  they  have  to  feed  themselves.  The  commander- 
in-chief  receives  10  okeah  (l.§.  3<:/.)  per  diem.  The 
natural  consequence  of  this  is  that  they  rob  right 
and  left,  from  highest  to  lowest.  The  privates  are 
generally  scoundrels  of  all  kinds,  the  scum  of  the 
country,  who  on  enlisting  receive  a  pardon  for  all 
their  crimes,  and  thus  escape  the  law,  such  as  it  is. 
The  officers  who  are  in  rank  about  equal  to  a 
colonel  make  up  their  pay  thus :  each  one  will  say 
that   he  has    500  men  under   liim,  wliile   in   reality 

P 


210  MOROCCO  AND    THE  MOORS. 

he  has  about  150  or  200.  As  he  draws  pay  for  the 
number  lie  states,  he  pockets  about  twelve  to  fifteen 
dollars  a  day.  The  commander-in-chief  does  hkewise, 
though  natiu-ally  on  a  larger  scale,  as  befits  his  rank. 
The  other  officers,  too,  do  not  neglect  their  own 
interests.  A  short  time  before  I  was  in  Morocco 
the  surgeon  of  the  troops  did  not  stand  at  all  well 
with  the  government,  so  he  went  privately  to  the 
Sultan  and  told  liini  that  he  could  not  be  aware  how 
he  was  wasting  money  by  keeping  men  as  soldiers 
who  were  luifit  for  work,  some  being  blind  of  an 
eye,  some  lame,  some  consumptive.  On  hearing  this 
the  Sultan  gave  him  carte  blanche  to  weed  the  troops. 
Off  went  tlie  doctor,  well  pleased  with  his  success. 
From  some  of  the  men  he  got  five  dollars,  from 
others  more  or  less,  according  to  their  means,  in  re- 
turn for  which  he  gave  them  their  discharge,  and 
in  a  lew  days  found  himself  some  20,000  dollars  in 
pocket.  The  officers,  however,  finding  their  men 
sent  off  by  wholesale,  reported  the  matter  to  the 
Sultiui,  who  then  sent  after  the  discharged  men  and 
had  them  all  brought  back.  So  the  doctor  gained 
what  he  wanted  and  the  government  lost  nothing. 
What  could  be  more  satisfactory  to  both  parties.? 

These  Askar  were  about  four  thousand  in  num- 
ber at  Morocco,  though  there  arc  a  few  others  at 
Fiu*  and  Mekna.s.     ]5eside.s  these  the  Sultan  has  a  very 


MOROCCO  AND   THE  MOORS.  211 

fine  body  of  blacks — the  Boliari — tlie  only  troops,  in 
fact,  who  could  be  depended  upon  by  him.  They  are 
brought  up  from  boyhood  in  his  service,  well  clothed, 
fed,  and  treated.  They  could  not  find  a  better  master, 
so  that  they  would  always  remain  faithful.  The  As- 
kar,  on  the  other  hand,  would  immediately  join  any 
one  who  offered  the  highest  pay.  These  latter  have 
no  idea  of  discipline.  Their  dress  is  the  common 
fez  cap,  red  flannel  shell  jackets,  generally  too  short, 
and  blue  trousers  reaching  only  to  the  knee  and  very 
full.  I  saw  some  coming  in  from  parade ;  a  few 
drops  of  rain  began  to  fall,  and  there  was  a  general 
scurry  to  the  barracks,  headed  by  the  officers ;  and 
once  I  saw  one  within  fifty  yards  of  the  Emperor 
smoking  a  kief  pipe  behind  his  comrades'  back.  This 
was  during  the  feast  (at  Easter)  of  El  Aid-el-Khibeer, 
when  they  were  supposed  to  be  keeping,  the  ground. 
On  this  occasion  they  had  out  their  park  of  artillery, 
consisting  of  ten  small  field-pieces,  probably  6-pounders, 
drawn  by  six  or  eight  men.  This  feast — answering 
much  to  the  Jewish  passover — took  place  outside  the 
city,  and  on  the  Emperor's  return  a  feu  de  joie  was 
fired,  in  which  an  officer  was  killed  by  a  ramrod 
discharged  from  one  of  the  flint-lock  guns  of  the 
Askar.  However,  as  the  arms  are  never  examined, 
it  was  not  known  who  shot  him,  and  so  no  one  was 
blamed. 

P  -2 


NOTES  ON  THE  BffiDS  OF  TANGIER 
AND  EASTERN  MOROCCO. 


This  and  the  following  paper  are  reprinted  from  the  *  Ibis '  (New  Series) 
by  permission  of  the  Editor. 

The  following  few  notes  on  the  birds  which  I  observed 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Tangier  diu-ing  my  stay  there 
from  January  to  the  beginning  of  April  last,  may  not 
be  without  interest,  as  that  part  of  Africa  has  not 
received  much  attention  from  ornithologists.  The 
country  immediately  around  Tangier  is  not  so  good 
for  a  collector  as  that  near  Tetuan,  which  lies  at  the 
foot  of  a  northern  spin:  of  the  Atlas,  rising  there  ab- 
ruptly from  the  plain  to  an  elevation  seemingly  of 
six  or  seven  thousand  feet,  though,  unfortunately,  I 
had  not  any  instruments  with  me  to  ascertain  its  real 
height.  These  mountains  are  in  many  parts  well 
wooded,  and  the  Andalusian  Quail,  Woodpeckers,  and 
Owls  are  abundant ;  while  on  the  rocky  cliffs  Eagles, 
Vidtures,  and  Hawks  breed  in  numbers.  Nearer  the 
town,  orange-groves  extend  almost  without  interrup- 
tion for  two  or  three  miles,  watered  by  a  stream 
abounding  in  trout ;  and  here  the  Dusky  Ixus  hterally 


214  NOTES  OX  THE  BIliDS   OF 

swarms,  while  tlie  gardens  are  the  chief  haunts  of 
the  various  Warblers,  which  delight  in  the  shelter 
afforded  by  the  cane-hedges.  Wild  fowl  are  plentiful 
in  the  marshes  at  Martine,  the  port  of  Tetuan,  about 
eight  miles  distant,  as  well  as  Crakes,  Egrets,  and 
other  marsh-fowl. 

Of  the  Eagles  and  Vultures,  few  remain  in  Morocco 
during  the  winter,  but  most  come  in  flights  from  the 
south-east  and  south  between  the  15th  and  20th  of 
March,  almost  invariably  during  an  easterly  wind. 
Alpine  Swifts  make  their  appearance  at  the  same 
time,  but  the  Bee-eaters  and  Eollers  do  not  generally 
come  till  the  middle  of  April.  Most  of  the  Hawks 
and  Buzzards  remain  during  the  winter,  and  are  very 
l)lentifully  scattered  over  the  whole  country ;  yet, 
notwithstanding  these  as  well  as  other  two-legged 
and  four-footed  foes,  there  is  an  abundance  of  game, 
consi.-t:ng  of  Barbary  Partridges,  Snipes,  and  Wild  fowl, 
besides  a  few  Hares,  of  which  there  are  two  species, 
80  di>tinct  that  even  the  natives  have  different  names 
for  thcni.  liabbits  also  are  found  on  the  hillsides. 
Quails  and  Little  Bustards  make  their  appearance  in 
the  cornfields  at  Tangier  in  April  and  May. 

Tlie  Rif  country,  which  lies  along  the  coast  east 
of  Tetuan,  would  probably  be  full  of  interest  to  the 
naturalist,  as,  from  what  can  be  gathered  from  the 
Moors,  it  is  in  many  parts  still  virgin  forest ;  but  as 


TANGIER  AND  EASTERN  MOROCCO.  215 

yet  no  European  lias  ever  been  able  to  explore  it.  The 
people,  who  seem  to  be  a  distinct  race  from  the 
Moors — having  much  fairer  complexions,  and  speak- 
ing a  dialect  which  varies  from  the  Mogrebbin  or 
Moorish  Arabic — are  very  warhke,  continually  fight- 
ing among  themselves,  and  murdering  any  wretched 
Moors  or  Jews  who  happen  to  fall  into  their  clutches. 
They  are  extremely  jealous  of  strangers  setting  foot 
in  their  territory ;  and  in  fact  it  seems  impossible 
for  any  one  to  do  so ;  for  though  they  are  called 
subjects  of  the  Sultan  of  Morocco,  his  power  over 
them  is  scarcely  more  than  nominal.  In  these  forests 
a  large  wild  beast  is  said  to  live,  the  description  of 
which  answers  in  many  respects  to  that  of  a  Bear; 
but  its  existence  is  rather  mythical,  as  no  reward  has 
hitherto  been  able  to  tempt  the  hunters  to  produce 
its  skin.  The  Barbary  Ape,  however,  is  very  plentiful 
on  the  precipices  and  wooded  hillsides. 

Along  the  coast  to  the  west  of  Tangier  are  several 
alluvial  plains,  which,  in  a  few  places,  are  formed 
into  lakes  by  the  mouths  of  the  rivers  passing  through 
them  becoming  silted  up  by  the  sand  drifted  from  the 
sea-shore.  These  are  the  chief  resorts  of  the  water- 
fowl ;  amongst  them  the  commonest  is  the  Buff- 
backed  Heron,  which,  during  the  early  part  of  the 
winter,  is  found  scattered  about  the  plains,  feeding 
among  the  cattle,  or   picking  insects  off  their  backs. 


216  NOTES  OX  THE  BIRDS  OF 

At  this  time  it  is  extremely  tame,  but  as  the  spring 
advances,  collecting  in  Hocks  previous  to  migrating 
to  its  breeding-grounds  (which  I  beheve  lie  in  the 
marshes  of  the  interior  south-west  of  Tangier),  it  be- 
comes one  of  the  most  difficidt  birds  to  approach. 

There  are  many  wild  beasts  to  be  found  in  this 
district.  The  Wild  Boar  is  still  plentiful  on  the  hills, 
where  he  makes  his  lair  in  almost  impenetrable 
thickets  of  gum-cistus  and  heather,  which  latter 
grows  frequently  seven  or  eight  feet  high ;  a  Lynx 
(in  Moorish  '  Oud-al ' — Felis  caracal^  I  believe)  and 
the  Jackal  are  also  to  be  found  there,  though  the 
former  but  rarely.  In  the  more  open  country  are 
found  the  Ichneumon,  Fox,  Genet,  and  Barbary  Mouse, 
whilst  the  Otter  is  common  near  the  rivers  and  on 
the  rocky  coast.  Towards  the  interior  occur  the 
Leopard,  Hyaena,  and  Lion,  as  well  as  several  species 
of  antelope.  Land-  and  Water-Tortoises  are  also  very 
common. 

As  a  rule  the  Moors  are  not  of  much  use  for  col- 
lecting. They  are  keen  sportsmen  and  indefatigable 
hunters,  but  they  look  upon  the  shooting  of  small 
birds  as  beneath  their  dignity,  and  cannot  under- 
stand why  so  much  trouble  should  be  taken  for  a,  to 
them,  useless  object.  Yet  when  they  see  one  anxious 
to  obtain  any  particular  specimen,  they  will  do  all 
they  can  to  help,  and  widi  a  little  trouble  thev  would 


TANGIER  AND  EASTERN  MOROCCO.  217 

make  invaluable  assistants.  They  are  so  quick-sighted 
that  they  will  constantly  detect  Partridges  or  Hares 
crouching  in  a  thick  palmetto-bush,  where  it  is  often 
very  difficult  to  see  them  even  when  one  knows  that 
they  are  there.  For  information  about  many  of  the 
birds  I  am  indebted  to  IVir.  Green,  Her  Majesty's 
Consul  at  Tetuan.  I  am  also  largely  indebted  to 
Sir  J.  H.  Drummond-Hay,  Her  Majesty's  Minister  in 
Morocco,  for  very  many  acts  of  hospitality  and  kind- 
ness, among  others  for  having  procured  for  me  with 
great  trouble  the  specimen  of  the  large  Bustard  men- 
tioned below, 

VuLTUR  FULVUS  (Liiin.)  Common  at  Tetuan.  I  saw  seve- 
ral towards  the  end  of  March,  and  I  believe  that  some  remain 
there  all  the  winter. 

Neophron  percxopterus  (Linn.)  '  Sew.'  Common.  Breeds 
near  Tetuan.  Passes  over  Tangier  in  a  northerly  direction, 
when  there  is  a  strong  easterly  wind,  about  March  15  to  20. 
I  saw  one  that  was  shot  on  March  4,  about  twenty  miles  west 
of  Tangier. 

Aquila  chrysaetus  (Linn.)  Breeds  at  Tetuan,  though  in 
no  great  numbers. 

Aquila  bonellii  (Temm.)  Breeds  at  Tetuan  sometimes, 
and  also  at  Cape  Spartel. 

Aqcila  pennata  (Gmel.)  Has  been  seen  a  few  times  at 
Tetuan  and  Tangier. 

Pandion  hali^etus  (Linn.)  Tolerably  common  along  the 
coast,  and  breeds  there. 

Falco  peregrinus  '  (Linn.)  Common ;  breeds  in  the 
mountains. 

'  [Qii.  F.  harbmns?—Y.A\\ox  of  the  '  Ibis.'] 


218  NOTES  ON  THE  BIRDS  OF 

Falco  lanarius  (Schl.)  I  saw  a  tame  Falcon  taken  at 
Tetuan,  which  I  believe  to  be  of  this  species. 

Falco  sudbuteo  (Linn.)  I  saw  this  bird  twice  near  Cape 
Negro. 

TiNNUNCULUS  ALAUDARius  (Gr.  E.  Grray.)  '  Sweef.'  Very 
common. 

TiNNUNCULUS  CENCiiRis  (Naum.)  Passes  over  during  the 
March  migration,  but  remains  all  the  year  at  Laraiche.  I 
obtained  several  specimens  thence  in  February ;  and  it  also 
breeds  there. 

MiLVUS  ICTINUS  (Sav.)  '  Sewana.'  Not  uncommon  in 
winter  at  Tetuan. 

MiLVDS  MIGRANS  (Bodd.)     Breeds. 

Elanus  C.ERULEUS  (Dcsf.)  I  shot  one  at  Tangier,  and  a 
second  at  Tetuan.  I  saw  a  few  others.  It  breeds  on  the 
mountains  west  of  Tetuan. 

AcciPiTER  Nisus  (Linn.)  I  shot  one,  February  20,  at 
Tangier,  where  it  is  only  seen  on  passage.  It  usually  does 
not  come  till  j\Larch. 

CiRCDS  ^RUGINOSUS  (Linn.)     Very  common. 

Circus  cyaneus  (Linn.)        )  ., 

^,  /-,,       X  ^Seen  on  several  occasions. 

Circus  cineraceds  (Mont.)  j 

Asio  DUACHYOTUS  (Linn.)     )  ^ 

A  /  A    o    Ml  N  h Common. 

A.SI0  capensis  (A.  Smith.)  ) 

Athene  persica  (Vieill.)     Plentiful  everywhere. 

Syrnium  aluco  (Linn.)     I  found  numbers  in  caves  at 

Tetuan. 

PiCUS  NDMIDICUS  (Malli.) 


r'™^,*,^^  ^  /HT  „    >  r  On  Tetuan  mountains. 

Gecinds  vaillanti  (Malh.)J 

Jynx  torquilla  (Linn.)  I  shot  one  in  a  vineyard  at 
Tangier,  ISIardi  30.  It  is  ratber  more  ochreous  beneath 
than  British  examples,  and  the  grey  is  lighter  than  in 
tluin. 

CoRACiAs   fSARRULA   (Linn.)     Seen  frequently  about  the 


TANGIER  AND  EASTERN  MOROCCO.  210 

middle  and  end  of  April.  Breeds  further  down  the  west 
coast. 

Merops  apiaster  (Linn.)  Very  abundant.  Arrives  in 
the  beginning  of  April. 

Alcedo  ispida  (Linn.)     Common,  and  breeds. 

Upupa  epops  (Linn.)  Arrives  about  February  20,  and 
is  then  to  be  found  all  over  the  country.  About  April  it 
seems  to  go  further  west  to  breed. 

CucuLus  CANOEUS  (Linn.)     Arrives  in  the  spring. 

OxYLOPHUS  GLANDARius  (Linn.)  I  saw  one  at  Tangier 
January  10,  and  on  the  15th  shot  one.  I  shot  another  at 
Tetuan  March  15. 

Caphimdlgus  europ^us  (Linn.)     |  Known    to    breed    to- 

CAPRiMULaus  RUFicoLLis  (Temm.)j      wards  Ceuta. 

Ctpselus  melba  (Linn.)     Only  seen  on  passage. 

Cypselus  apus  (Linn.)     Plentiful  in  summer. 

HiRUNDO  RUSTiCA  (Liuu.)     All  the  year  round. 

Chelidon  URBiCA  (Linn.)|  I    believe,    do    not    stay    the 

CoTYLE  RiPARiA  (Linn.)   j      winter. 

CoTYLE  RUPESTRis  (Scop.)  I  saw  this  at  Tetuan  towards 
the  end  of  March,  but  only  in  very  small  numbers. 

Oriolus  galbula  (Linn.)  Very  rare  indeed,  and  only  in 
summer. 

Lanius  meridionalis  (Temm.)  Common  everywhere.  On 
the  mountains  west  of  Tetuan  I  once  saw  another  species, 
which  seemed  to  })e  L.  exeubitor. 

Lanius  collurio  (Linn.)     At  Martine  in  summer. 

Lanius  auricdlatds  (P.  L.  S.  Midler.)  I  saw  a  Woodchat 
April  2. 

Telephonus  cucullatus  (Temm.)  Not  rare,  but  very  shy. 
To  be  found  chiefly  in  the  cane-hedges. 

MusciCAPA  ATRiCAPiLLA  (Linn.)  Seen  during  the  spring 
migration. 

Ixus  BARBATUS  (Desf.)     Very  common. 


220  NOTES  ON  THE  BIRDS  OF 

T[jiiDUS  viscivoRCS  (Linn.)  | 

TuRDUs  Musicus  (Linn.)      rVery  common. 

TuRDUS  MERULA  (Linn.)      ) 

TuRDUS  TORQCATUS  (Linu.)  One  was  killed  a  few  years 
ago  at  Tangier. 

Petrocincla  cyana  (Linn.)     Common  on  rocky  ground. 

Often  frequents  cemeteries. 

Saxicola  (Enanthe  (Linn.)     ^  .^ 

o  /-rr.  .„  N  jNone  of  these  are  rare  dur- 

Saxicola  albicollis  ( Vieill.)  v     . 

Sakicola  stapazina  (Linn.)    j         ^  ^        ^  ' 

Pratincola  rubetra  (Linn.)  Two  have  been  shot  at 
Tetuan. 

Ctanecula  leucocyanea  (Brehm.)  Very  shy,  and  conse- 
quently little  seen,  but  not  rare.  This  is  the  form  with  the 
white  breast-spot. 

Sylvia  orphea  (Temm.)     At  Tetuan,  rare. 

Sylvia  conspicillata  (Marm.)  Shot  in  the  salt  marshes 
at  Martine  in  Marcli. 

Sylvia  melanocepiiala  (Gmel.)     Very  common. 

Melizophilus  undatus  (Bodd.)  The  Dartford  Warbler 
is  common  on  the  plains  covered  with  palmetto. 

Phyllopneuste  rufa  (Lath.)     At  Tetuan,  rare. 

Salicaria  aquatica  (Lath.)  Shot  in  ]March,  being  tlien 
in  winter  plumage. 

Locustella  NiEviA  (Bodd.)     Shot  in  March. 

Pseidoluscinia  luscinioides  (Savi.) 

I'DTAMonrs  CETTii  (Marm.) 

Troglodytes  parvulus  (Koch.)  I  saw  also  a  second  species 
of  Wren,  which  Mr.  Green  had  shot.  I  hope  next  winter  to 
procure  it  myself. 

MoTACiLLA  ALBA  (Linn.) 

IU'i)YTE8  FLAVA  (Linn.) 

PAurs  iiLTRAMARiNus  (Bp.)    I  saw  but  few,  and  only  sue- 


Rare. 


TANGIER  AND  EASTERN  MOROCCO.  221 

ceeded  in  getting  two  specimens,  both  of  which  I  unfortu- 
nately lost. 

LiNOTA  RUFESCENS  (VieiU.)  In  one  of  my  rides  I  got 
within  a  few  yards  of  a  bird  that  I  had  no  doubt  at  the  time 
was  a  redpoll. 

LiNOTA  CANNABiNA  (Linn.) 

CHBft'SOMiTRis  spiNUS  (Linn.) 

Carduelis  elegans  (Steph.) 

Serinus  bortulorum  (Koch.)  Killed  at  Tangier  by  M. 
Favier ;  rare. 

Chlorospiza  aurantiiventris  (Cab.) 

CoccoTHRAUSTEs  VULGARIS  (Steph.)  I  saw  one  that  had 
been  shot  at  Tetuan  by  Mr.  Green. 

Fringilla  spodiogenia  (Bp.) 

Emberiza  miliaria  (Linn.) 

Emberiza  hortulana  (Linn.)     In  summer. 

Plectrophanes  nivalis  (Linn.)  One  was  picked  up  dead 
at  Cape  Spartel. 

Melanocorypha  calandra  (Linn.)     On  the  open  plains. 

GrALERITA  CRISTATA  (Linn.)] 

,  /T  •      \    f  Common. 

Alauda  arvensis  (Lmn.)   j 

Calandrella  brachtdacttla  (Leisl.)     On  tlie  open  plains. 

Sturnus  vulgaris  (Linn.)     Uncommon. 

Sturnus    unicolor   (Marm.)     More  common  at  Tetuan 

tlian  at  Tangier. 

CoRVus  corax  (Linn.) 


Very  common. 
CoRvus  CORONE  (Linn.) J 

CoRvus  3I0NEDULA  (Linn.)  ]  Seen  in  large  flocks  together, 

Fregilus  graculus  (Linn.) j     but  only  at  Tetuan. 

Pica  mauritanica  (Malh.)     Eabat. 

Columba    palumbus    (Linn.)       I   saw   a  few  flights  in 

^Nlarch. 

Columba  livia  (Linn.)     Common  on  the  coast. 


222  NOTES  OX   THE  BIRDS   OF 

Caccabis  petrosa  (Gmel.)  'El  Hajel.'  Very  common 
everywhere. 

CoTDRNix   COMMUNIS   (Bonn.)       '  Soumena.'      Arrives  at 

Tetuan  in  March,  but  at  Tangier  not  till  April.     Breeds. 

Pterocles  arenarius  (Pall.)  )  ,  t^,  ^r     j  • -,     -n  v  i. 

.        'ElKoudn.     Eabat. 
Pteuoclks  alchata  (Lmn.) 

Tlr.mx  sylvatica  (Desf.)  Seems  to  be  tolerabiy  com- 
mon. 

,  PoRZANA  maruetta  (Loach.)  I  shot  two.  at  Martine, 
March  23.  They  are  more  freckled  with  white  than  EurO'- 
pean  specimens. 

PoRZANA  PYGMyEA  (Naum.)     Eare. 

PoRPEYRio  HYACINTHINUS  (Temm.)  Found  occasionally 
in  the  marshes,  and,  I  believe,  breeds  there. 

GALLiNULAcnLORorus(Linn.)f^^^  '^^^  ^^  °^^^^  °^  ^^^ 

\    lakes  west  of  Tangier ;  but 

FULICA  ATRA  (Linn.)  t  j-j         i.  My 

^  \   I  did  not  see  any  myseli. 

ScoLorAX  RUSTICOLA  (Linn.)  '  Sou-mirh.'  Common  in 
winter. 

Gallinago  scoLOPACiNns(Bp.)    '  Boom-e  n-ar.'  Common. 

PiiALARorus  FDLicARius  (Linn.)  An  exhausted  bird  was 
brouglit  to  me  by  a  boy  in  January. 

TuiNOA  ALPiNA  (Linn.)  Common  on  the  shore  at  Tangier 
in  .January,  Init  hardly  any  remained  by  the  middle  of  Fe- 
bruary. 

yKoiALlTIS  CANTIANUS  (Lath.) 

/KoiALiTis  HiATicuLA  (Linn.) 

SyuATAROLA  HELVETICA  (Linn.) 

(.'hahadrius  pldvialis  (Linn.)  ) 

VANELLrs  CR.sTAT.s  (Meyer.)   |<^^^^"^^- 

(Jlareola  I'nATiNc  OLA  (Linn.)  Occasionally  seen  at  Mar- 
tine. 

Cirnsonirs  (jai^mcis  (Gmel.)     Kare.     Arrives  in  May  or 

.IlMH'. 


TANGIER  AND  EASTERN  MOROCCO.  2'23 

HiMANTOPUS  CANDIDUS  (Bonn.)     I  saw  several. 

CEdicnemus  crepitans  (Temm.)     Common. 

Otis  TETBiix  (Linn.)     '  Boozerat.'     Common  in  summer. 

Otis  arabs  *  (Linn.)  A  specimen  brought  from  Dar-el- 
baida,  on  the  west  coast,  not  very  far  from  Mogador. 

GrRus  cinerea  (Bechst.)     '  Grarnook.'     Seen  occasionally. 

GrRUS  VIRGO  (Linn.)     I  shot  one  at  Martine,  March  23. 

Ardba  cinerea  (Linn.)  '  Hameedo-el-wad '  or  '  El  Rha- 
beah.'     Found  on  all  the  rivers. 

Ardea  bubulcus  (Sav.)     Very  common. 

Ardea  garzetta  (Linn.)  A  few  usually  at  Martine  in 
winter. 

Nycticorax  griseus  (Linn.)  One  shot  by  Mr.  Green  at 
Tetuan. 

BoTAURUS  stellaris  (Linn.)  Not  rare.  At  Martine,  when 
it  is  heard  booming,  the  people  imagine  it  to  be  the  voice  of 
a  '  Jin '  portending  a  bad  season. 

Falcinellus  igneus  (Grm.)  Numbers  come  to  Tetuan  in 
summer. 

Platalea  leucoradia  (Linn.)     Very  rare. 

CicoNiA  ALBA  (Bechst.)  '  Bclarej.'  Held  sacred,  as  in 
Holland,  and  consequently  very  abundant.  I  liave  counted 
more  than  sixty  together  in  one  place. 

Pikenicopterus  ROSEUS  (Pall.)     'Nehaf.'     Very  rare. 

Tadorna  casarca  (Gmel.)  Shot  by  M.  Favier  off  Cape 
Spartel. 

Anas  bosciias  (Linn.)     'El  Bourk.'    \    Plentiful  on  tlie 

Anas  pbnelopb  (Linn.)  j-  pools  in  the  open 

Anas  crecca  (Linn.)  }    country. 

'  [The  specimen  obtained  bv  our  contributor  was  submitted  for  de- 
termination to  Mr.  Georpe  Gray,  who  has  most  kindly  compared  it  with 
examples  in  the  British  Museum,  and  infoiined  us  that  he  could  not  refer 
it  to  any  other  species,  though  some  slight  differences  were  observable. 
Can  it  be  this  species  which  has  hitlierto  been  taken  for  O.  tarda  in 
M(n-occo  ?— Editor  uf  '  Ibis.'] 


224  NOTES  OX  THE  BIRDS  OF  MOROCCO. 

Phalacrocorax  carbo  (Linn.)  I  saw  one  near  Cape 
Spartel. 

SrLA  ba.-sana  (Linn.)     Common. 

roDiCEPs  MINOR  (Gmc'l.)  At  the  lakes  during  the  whole 
year. 

Stercorarius  parasiticus  (Linn.)         >j    On  the  coast  in 

Larus  fuscus  (Linn.) 

KissA  TRIDACTYLA  (Linn.) 

CiiROicocEPHALUS  RiDiBUNDUS  (Linn.)  I    remain    for    the 

Sterna  cantiaca  (Gmel.)  '    summer. 

Stkhna  minuta  (Linn.)  I  saw  one  specimen  obtained  hy 
M.  Kavier. 


winter;  but  I  do 
not  know  if  they 


FURTHER  NOTES  ON  THE  BIRDS  OF  MOROCCO. 

Since  the  publication  of  my  former  notes  on  tlie 
birds  of  Morocco/  ornitbology  at  Tangier  lias  sus- 
tained a  great  loss  in  the  person  of  M.  Favicr,  who 
died  suddenly  in  December  18G7.  He  was  an  in- 
telligent and  vciy  lia id- working  naturalist;  and  though 
his  studies  were  limited  to  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
town  wliere  he  lived,  yet  during  his  long  residence 
tlu-rc  lie  had  collected  a  quantity  of  very  interesting 
notes,  which  were  sold  after  his  death,  unfortunately 
in  my  absence  from  Tangier ;  and  on  my  return 
thitlier  I  was  unable  to  procure  them.  This  I  much 
rcgreltctl,  as  from  the  opportunities  he  liad   enjoyed 

'  'ibi-V  1SG7,  pp.  121-430. 


NOTES  OX  THE  JilEES   OF  MOROCCO.  225 

he  had  been  able  to  remark  many  birds  witli  whicli 
I  liad  no  chance  of  meeting  hi  the  winter  and  spring.^ 

On  my  first  visit  to  Morocco  my  observations 
were  limited  to  the  districts  of  Tangier  and  Tetiuin  ; 
but  I  have  since  had  much  greater  opportunities  of 
examining  the  fauna,  having  travelled  through  a  large 
extent  of  the  country — tliat  is  to  say,  on  the  coast 
from  Tetuan  to  Mazagan,  and  in  the  interior  from 
the  town  last  mentioned  to  the  city  of  Morocco  and 
thence  to  Mogador. 

Tlie  country  along  the  coast  presents  a  great  same- 
ness in  appearance  ;  the  cliffs  are  usually  low,  and 
very  frequently  consist  only  of  a  bank  of  sand-dunes. 
Inland  the  ground  rises,  in  some  parts,  in  a  series 
of  plains  backed  by  ranges  of  low  hills  till  the  snow- 
capped peaks  of  the  Atlas  are  reached,  as  is  the 
case  to  tlie  south-east  of  Dar-el-baida  and  Mazagan. 
In  other  parts  more  northward  it  is  a  pasture-country, 
a  '  rolling  prairie,'  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  with 
frequent  lakes  and  marshes  in  the  hollows.  The  first 
lake  of  any  importance  tliat  I  came  to  is  that  of  Mulei- 
bou-Selham,  so  called  from  a  santon  of  tliat  name 
wlio  is  buried  there  ;  and  a  channel  has  been  cut 
throuo;li  the  sand-hills  which  divide  it  from  the   sea. 

'  [Some  particulars  of  M.  Favier  and  of  the  work  for  the  publication 
of  wbick  he  had  been  long  collecting  materials,  will  be  found  in  the 
'  Ootheca  Wolloyana'  (pp.  1-3)  as  furnished  to  Mr.  .Jolin  ^^'oile}-  in 
1845.— Ed.1 

Q 


226  NOTES   OX    I'llE  BIliDS  OF  MOROCCO. 

This  was  done  Ijv  tlie  Arabs  on  account  of  some  heavy 
and  destructive  floods  which  occurred  a  year  or  two 
ago  ;  and  in  consequence  the  lake  is  very  shallow, 
with  larj^c  tracts  of  mud-flats  and  swamp  surround- 
ing it.  Tliose  are  the  resort  of  countless  Snipe,  dot- 
terel et  hoc  genus  onme,  while  the  shallow  waters 
form  feeding-grounds  for  large  flocks  of  waders  and 
Fhimingocs,  which  last  at  rest  appear  almost  pure 
white,  but  at  the  sound  of  a  gun  rise  in  clouds,  show- 
ing tlie  black  and  delicate  rose-colour  of  their  wings ; 
and  this  with  the  sunlight  gleaming  upon  it  has  a 
wonderfully  pretty  effect. 

Near  this  place  I  came  upon  a  colony  of  Asia 
capensis,  which  had  taken  up  their  abode  in  a  patch 
of  mallows,  about  half  an  acre  in  extent,  by  the  side 
of  a  stream.  There  were  some  twenty  or  thirty  of 
tlicm  sitting  solemnly  blinking  at  me  till  I  was  within 
a  few  yards  of  them,  when  they  lazily  flapped  away. 
Til  is  is  the  only  time  I  ever  saw  them  in  tlie  open 
country;  in  the  wooded  hills  to  the  east  they  are 
common.^ 

A  short  distance  furtl^er  west,  about  halfway  be- 
tween Laraiche  and  IJabat  is  the  Lake  of  Ras-dowra 
or  Behara,  which,  wilh  tlie  marshes,  or  rather  series 

'  [Other  otwen-ors,  we  believe,  liavo  iKiticod  tliat  this  species  gene- 
mlly  nffectj*  the  oi»en  countrv.  Tlie  late  M.  Favier  informed  Mr.  Gurney 
I  lint  tu'ftf  Tanj^ier  it  bred  with  A.  hrachi/otHS,  and  that  the  iiybrids  had  a 
narrow  jelbiw  rinp  round  the  iris.— ICditor  of  the  '  Ibis.'l 


xoTUs  OX  Tin:  ninns  of  morocco.         227 

of  small  lakes  and  pools,  at  its  south-western  ex- 
tremity, cannot  be  less  than  thirty  or  five-and-thirty 
miles  long,  while  in  parts  it  is  five  or  six  wide  ;  it 
is,  however,  so  intersected  with  promontories  and 
studded  with  islands  that  it  is  difficult  to  realise  its 
extent. 

The  Arabs  on  the  shores  of  this  lake,  which  is 
only  separated  from  tlie  sea  by  a  low  range  of  hills, 
are  mostly  fishermen ;  they  use  canoes  made  of  bundles 
of  bulrushes  tied  together  to  form  the  bottom ;  gun- 
wales are  made  in  the  same  way  ;  one  end  is  then  cut 
square,  and  the  other  is  gradually  fined  off  into  a  point 
which  rises  some  two  feet  above  the  water.  These 
canoes  are  punted  along  with  a  pole  shod  with  horn, 
as  the  water  is  generally  not  more  than  from  four  to 
six  feet  in  depth,  but  so  choked  with  weeds  tliat  a 
paddle  would  be  useless ;  a  net  would  be  equally  so  ; 
the  fishing-implements,  then,  in  use  are  cane  spears 
tipped  with  iron.  When  a  fish  is  seen,  or  an  eel 
begins  to  bubble,  the  boatman  throws  in  a  bundle 
of  six  or  seven  of  these  spears,  one  of  which  is  almost 
certain  to  strike  the  fish  ;  and  if  this  seems  a  large 
one,  other  spears  are  driven  in  close  to  the  first  till 
the  prey  is  secured. 

The  numbers  of  wild  fowl  on  this  lake  are  wonder- 
ful ;  the  water  seems  ahve  and  quite  black  with  them, 
while  the  noise  they  make  in  rising  sounds  like  a  heavy 

Q  2 


228  NOTES  0.\   TIIK  BIRDS  OF  MOROCCO. 

surf  breaking  on  u  pebbly  beach.  Few  of  these  birds, 
liowever,  aoconling  to  tlie  account  of  the  Arabs,  remain 
to  breed  :  Widgeon,  common  Wild  Ducks,  and  Coots  of 
both  species  are  the  most  abundant ;  but  the  Ruddy 
Shell-Drake  is  not  uncommon,  as  well  as  the  Glossy 
Ibis,  Herons,  and  Bitterns. 

The  districts  where  the  Lesser  Kestrel  is  found  in 
this  country  are  most  curiously  limited ;  the  only 
reason  I  am  able  to  give  for  this  is  that  they  seem  to 
prefer  a  comparatively  level  country  ;  in  fact  I  never 
found  them  in  the  mountainous  parts  except  at  Tangier, 
and  then  only  during  the  March  migration  ;  but  at 
Laraiche,  which  is  about  sixty  miles  along  the  coast  to 
the  west  of  Tangier,  they  are  not  only  found  in  summer, 
but  they  stay  the  whole  year  round  and  breed  there. 
Wlien  I  travelled  down  the  coast  I  found  them  at 
every  town  and  kaaba  that  I  passed,  sometimes  on  the 
coast,  sometimes  thirty  or  forty  miles  inland  ;  this  con- 
tiiuied  till  I  came  to  Mazagan,  where  there  were  num- 
bers; and  I  saw  them  continually  till  I  came  to  the 
village  of  Sidi  llahal,  which  lies  about  sixty  miles  south 
by  east  of  Mazagan,  on  the  road  to  Morocco.  I  never 
afterwards  miw  them,  whether  at  Morocco,  Mogador, 
or  Safi.  ]iy  this  it  will  be  seen  that  they  are  limited 
to  a  district  extending  about  two  hundred  miles  along 
the  coast  and  some  forty  to  sixty  inland.  They  live  in 
the  holes  and  crevices  with  which  every  Moorish  Avail 


yOTES   ox   THE  BIRB!S   OF  MOROCCO.  229 

is  SO  abimdantly  supplied,  in  perfect  harmony  with  tlie 
Sardinian  Starling,  which  has  similar  tastes.  In  the 
early  dawn  and  just  before  sunset,  they  may  be  seen 
sitting  on  the  walls  in  rows,  often  forty  or  fifty  together. 
In  the  day-time  they  fly  together  in  small  flocks  of 
from  five  to  twenty,  feeding  chiefly  on  insects  which 
they  catch  on  the  wing,  so  that  many  of  their  habits 
more  resemble  those  of  some  of  the  Swallow-  than  of 
the  Hawk-tribe. 

At  Eabat  I  saw  two  birds  alive  in  the  possession  of 
Mr.  C.  Smith,  the  English  Vice-Consul,  which  were 
evidently  some  kind  of  Francolin  ;  but  as  I  was  unable 
to  procm'e  a  specimen  I  cannot  venture  to  name  them  : 
the  plumage  was  of  a  dark  slaty-grey,  with  whitish 
pencillings  on  the  back  and  wings ;  the  breast  was  of 
the  same  grey,  but  with  a  circular  s})ot  of  white  on 
each  feather.  The  general  colour  of  the  plumage 
much  resembled  that  of  a  Guinea-fowl,  but  was 
perhaps  a  slight  shade  browner.  These  birds  had 
been  brought  in  quite  young  from  the  Zyar  country 
in  the  preceding  spring ;  but  unluckily  these  Zyars 
are  one  of  the  unsubjected  tribes,  numbering  some 
forty  thousand  strong,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to  pene- 
trate their  country,  which  is  to  a  great  extent  forest, 
as  is  the  territory  of  their  equally  lawless  neighbours, 
the  Zimours,  wlio  live  in  the  forest  of  Maimora,  to  the 
south-east  of  Eabat.     A  species  of  wild  ox,  of  a  dun 


230  NOTES  OX  THE  lilEUS  OF  MOROCCO. 

or  reddish  colour,  is  said  to  have  existed  here  till 
recently,  but  is  now  said  to  be  quite  extinct.  I  was 
also  told  that  a  large  Wood-Pigeon  with  a  black  ring 
round  its  neck  is  found  here  ;  but  I  never  met  with  it 
myself. 

^\1len  I  was  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Dar-el-baida 
(Casablanca),  hearing  that  Otis  arabs,  or,  as  it  is  called 
by  the  natives,  the  '  Hobar,'  was  to  be  found  on  the 
plains  inland,  I  went  up  the  country  and  spent  several 
days  hunting  it,  but  was  not  fortunate  enough  to  ob- 
tain any.  I  followed  the  usual  plan  pursued  by  the 
Arabs,  several  of  wliom  came  out  to  help  me ;  their 
way  is  to  ride  in  line  over  the  plain  till  a  Bustard  is 
flushed  and  to  mark  it  down,  smTound  it,  and  try  to 
drive  it  to  where  the  guns  are  posted  ;  but  though  this 
might  answer  well  enough  with  several  guns,  yet  I  found 
it  useless  while  I  was  alone. 

The  Arabs  are  always  glad  to  shoot  these  birds,  as 
they  say  there  is  nearly  as  much  flesh  on  them  as  on 
lialf  a  sheep ;  they  told  me,  too,  of  a  plan  of  stalking 
which  was  sometimes  used  with  success.  It  is  done 
tlius: — A  schirdrry,  or  double  pannier,  being  put  on 
a  canu'l,  two  men  deposit  themselves  therein,  one 
on  each  side,  and  guide  the  camel  up  to  the  Bustard, 
which  IS  so  accustomed  to  these  animals  that  it  does  not 
move,  and  so  falls  an  easy  prey  to  the  long  guns  of 
the  Arabs.     These  people  certainly  show  good  taste  in 


yOTHS   ox   THE  BIRD.'S   OF  MOROCCO.  2;U 

their  liking  for  Bustard,  but  as  a  geueral  rule  they  are 
not  at  all  particular  as  to  what  they  eat ;  for  I  know 
from  my  own  experience  that  they  delight  in  the  flesh 
of  ichneumons,  foxes,  and  jackals  ;  and,  though  I  have 
never  seen  them  do  so  myself,  I  have  been  assured  on 
good  authority  that  they  take  as  kindly  to  Vultures,  the 
flesh  of  which,  say  they,  '  comforts  the  stomach.'  I 
heard  on  one  occasion  of  seven  or  eight  Egyptian  Vul- 
tures beinii;  shot  in  a  villacre,  the  inhabitants  of  which 
made  a  sumptuous  feast  off  them  ;  but  all  this  by 
the  way.  I  find  that  the  Great  Bustard  {Otis  tarda) 
is  also  found  in  Morocco,  as  one  was  shot  a  few  years 
ago  near  Tangier  ;  this  I  have  on  the  authority  of  Mr. 
W.  K.  Green,  British  Vice-Consul  at  Tetuan,  who  him- 
self shot  and  skinned  the  bird. 

I  again  met  with  the  '  Hobar '  in  the  plains  of 
Ducala,  about  a  day's  journey  fi-om  the  town  of 
Morocco.  Numerous  herds  of  gazelles  are  not  unfre- 
quently  seen  in  the  same  place.  It  is  a  barren,  deso- 
late tract,  where  nothing  seems  to  grow  but  a  few 
thorny  shrubs  and  a  kind  of  mimosa,  forming  inacces- 
sible fortresses,  in  which  numerous  Eavens  and  some 
few  Hawks  build  in  security.  On  the  hills  the  white 
broom  grows,  as  it  does  everywhere  in  this  latitude — 
near  Mogador  it  is  almost  the  only  shrub  to  be  seen 
for  miles.  A  few  sheep  and  goats  manage  to  pick  up 
a  living  where,  to  all  appearance,  there  is  not  sufficient 


282  NOTES  ON   THE  BIRDS  OF  MOROCCO. 

herbage  to  support  lite  in  a  rabbit ;  there  are,  however, 
many  watercourses,  which,  when  I  passed  (at  Easter), 
were  dry  ;  but,  no  doubt,  after  rain,  these  would 
produce  a  plentiful  pasturage  so  long  as  the  water 
lasted. 

Within  the  walls  of  the  town  of  Morocco  there  are 
numerous  gardens,  or  rather  groves,  of  white  mulberry-, 
olive-,  citron-,  and  other  trees,  which  in  spring  seem 
quite  ahve  with  the  gaily  coloured  Bee-eaters  and 
EoUers ;  Turtle  Doves  are  equally  abundant  in  the  palm- 
groves  and  fruit-orchards  outside  the  gates.  I  saw 
liere  for  the  first  and  only  time  in  the  country  the 
Barbary  dove  {Turtur  risorius)  ;  the  master  of  the 
fondak  (or  caravanserai)  where  I  was  staying,  had  two 
in  a  cage,  which  he  told  me  had  been  taken  from  a 
nest  in  the  palm-forest  in  the  previous  spring.  I  never, 
however,  .saw  any  wild. 

The  only  other  bu'd  I  ever  saw  within  the  walls, 
except  the  common  Sparrow,  was  the  beautiful  Carpo- 
(Idcus  iiitluvjinem,  which  is  so  tame  that  I  have  often 
liad  It  ily  into  my  room  at  \\\Qfinidaky  and  fearlessly 
pick  up  any  stray  crumbs  from  within  a  lew  inches  of 
the  mattress  on  which  I  was  lying.  I  never  saw  these 
birds  anywhere  else  in  the  country,  with  the  exception 
of  a  few  at  Mogador. 

After  a  .stay  of  some  little  time  in  Morocco  I  set  out 
for  Moga(l(;r  about  the  middle  of  April— at  a  most  un- 


NOTES   ON  THE  BIRDS  OF  MOROCCO.  233 

fortunate  time,  as  it  afterwards  turned  out,  for  I  came 
in  for  very  bad  weather  all  the  way  down  to  the  coast, 
rain  and  hail,  with  occasionally  bitter  winds,  driving 
down  from  the  Atlas  ;  so  that  I  was  unable  to  do 
much  in  the  way  of  collecting  specimens,  which  was 
the  more  to  be  regretted  as  the  great  plain  of  Morocco 
was  to  a  naturalist  one  of  the  most  interesting  parts  of 
the  country  I  passed  through.  It  has  a  very  fertile  soil, 
and,  being  well  irrigated  by  canals  cut  from  the  Ten- 
sift,  almost  anything  may  be  grown  there  ;  for  instance, 
tobacco,  sugar-cane,  and  corn  of  all  sorts  flourish 
abimdantly.  Some  of  the  Arabs,  too,  grow  a  kind  of 
indigo,  with  which  the  women  dye  their  clothes.  The 
soil  near  Morocco  is  a  rich,  heavy  red  loam,  which, 
after  rain,  becomes  excessively  slippery,  as  I  found  to 
my  cost ;  for  the  day  I  left  that  town  a  sudden  storm 
came  on  at  midday,  the  camels  began  slipping  about  as 
if  they  had  been  on  ice,  and  one  after  another  fell,  which 
is  often  dangerous,  as  they  are  very  apt  to  spht  them- 
selves in  falling,  and  so  become  so  disabled  as  to  be 
useless.  Finding  it  impossible  to  go  either  backwards 
or  forwards,  I  had  to  resign  myself  to  fate  till  the  rain 
stopped  and  the  wind  had  sufficiently  dried  the  surface 
to  enable  the  animals  to  go  on,  Furtlier  from  Morocco 
the  ground  becomes  very  stony,  and  affords  good  foot- 
hold for  the  camels. 

There   are  many  birds  to  be  found  here,  amongst 


234  NOTES  OX   THE  BIRDS   OF  MCltOCCO. 

whicli  I  chielly  noticed  the  Moorish  Magpie  {Pica 
mauritanica)  as  abundant.  The  Great  Spotted  Cuckoo 
{0.vylophus  glaridarius),  too,  is  very  common,  as  are 
also  the  '  Koudri '  {Pterocles  arenarius)^  the  Crateropus 
fulvus  (which  last  I  invariably  found  on  the  borders 
of  cultivated  land,  usually  five  or  six  together),  the 
Woodchat-Shrike  {Lanius  auriculatus),  and,  commoner 
than  all,  the  Turtle  Dove  (Turtur  vulgaris),  which  here, 
as  well  as  in  the  '  Argan '  forest,  near  Mogador,  literally 
swarms. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  birds  which  I  had  not 
observed  on  my  former  visit  to  the  country  : — 

AsTUR  PALUMBARius  (Linn.)  I  saw  a  specimen  shot  in 
the  mountains  near  Tetuan  in  December ;  and  in  May  I  saw 
a  pair  near  Cape  Spartel. 

,Mi;i.iKUAX  I'OLYZONUS  (Kiipp.)  An  example  of  this  bird 
was  shot  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Mogador,  which  the  Arabs 
said  was  the  first  they  had  seen  of  the  kind.  I  believe  this 
is  by  far  the  most  northern  locality  whence  this  species  has 
ever  before  been  obtained.  The  specimen  is  now  in  the 
Museum  of  the  University  of  Cambridge. . 

CRATERorus  FULVUS  (Desf.)  Between  Morocco  and  Moga- 
dor, as  above  mentioned. 

KiTiciLLA  TiTHYs  (Scop.)  I  saw  a  few  at  Tetuan  late  in 
Novem})er. 

CARPoDArrs  OITHAGINEUS  (Temm.)  At  Morocco  and 
M<)g;\(l(>r,  as  iH'forc  mentioned. 

(Jai.khita  MAcitoitiiYNCHA  (Tristram.)  Found  on  the  up- 
land plains  towards  the  city  of  Morocco.  A  specimen  I 
t)rr)ught   home  has  been  compared  by  Dr.  Tristram  with  the 


NOTES  ON  THE  BIIWS  OF  MOROCCO.  236 

type  of  the  species  first  described  by  him  in  the  '  Ibis '  for 
1859  (p.  57);  and  he  says  it  is  darker  and  more  rufous  than 
any  he  obtained  in  Algeria.  It  is  now  in  the  Cambridge 
Museum. 

Otocorys  bilopiia  (Temm.)  Found  near  Rabat  and  Dar- 
el-baida. 

TuRTUR  RisoRius  (Linn.)  At  Morocco,  as  above  men- 
tioned. 

TuRTUR  VULGARIS  (Eyton.)  Very  common,  as  I  have 
before  said,  on  the  west  coast ;  on  my  return  to  Tangier  in 
May  I  found  it  there  as  a  summer  visitant. 

Francolinus ?     At  Rabat,  as  described  above. 

FuLiCA  CRISTATA  (Gmcl.)  Plentiful  at  the  lake  of  Ras- 
dowra. 

Gallinago  major  (Gmel.)  In  one  instance  at  Dar-el- 
baida,  in  another  at  Tangier.     In  March. 

Trixga  minuta  (Leisl.)  Found  at  a  small  lake  near 
Laraiche. 

Tringoides  hypoleucus  (Linn.)  Generally  at  the  lakes 
and  marshes. 

ToTANUS  GLAREOLA  (Temm.)     Near  Laraiche. 

Totanus  glottis  (Linn.)     At  Rabat. 

LiMOSA  LAPPONiCA  (Linn.)  Not  uncommon  at  Mulei- 
bou-Selham  and  Ras-dowra. 

NuMENius  ARQUATA    (Linn.)]  Generally  found  at  the  lakes 

NuMENius  PH^opus  (Linn.)j      and  marshes. 

JEgialites  curonicus  (Beseke.)  Marshes  on  the  west 
coast.     Rare. 

Otis  tarda  (Linn.)  As  before  mentioned,  one  was  shot 
near  Tangier,  possibly  a  stray  bird  from  Spain,  as  I  never 
heard  of  it  elsewhere  in  the  country. 

Ardea  purpurea  (Linn.)  I  saw  a  specimen  killed  near 
Tangier. 

Ardetta  min'uta  (Linn.)     Rare. 


23G  NOTES  ON  THE  lillWS   OF  MOROCCO. 

Spatula  clypeata  (Linn.)|  Not  rare.     Usually  in  small 
FuLiGULA  CRISTATA  (Linn.)]      pools  in  the  open  country. 
Hydrochelidon  fissipes  (Linn.)     Tangier,  in  May. 
PoDiCEPs  CRISTATUS  (Linn.)      In  one  instance  at  Agla, 
between  Laraiche  and  Kas-dowra, 


237 


EEPORT  ON  THE  MTUEAL  HISTORY 
OF  THE  TIH/ 

I  HAVE  now  the  lionoiir  to  lay  before  you  a  report  of 
my  work  during  last  winter  in  the  '  Badiet  et  Tih,'  or 
Wilderness  of  the  Wandering.  As  this  desert  had 
been  only  partially,  and  even  then  superficially  ex- 
amined, I  shall  give,  firstly,  a  short  account  of  the 
route  we  took  and  of  the  general  physical  features  of 
the  country  ;  and  secondly,  the  various  traditions  of 
beasts  and  birds  which  are  current  among  the  Arabs. 
Many  of  these  pre  curious,  from  their  similarity  to 
Western  tales  ;  and  others,  though  seemingly  foolish  in 
themselves,  are  not  without  interest,  as  illustratinsf  the 
beliefs  and  folk-lore  of  the  Bedawin.  These  stories  are 
not  so  numerous  as  I  found  them  to  be  in  former 
iourneys  amongst  Arabs  inhabiting  more  fertile  tracts, 
for  the  Desert  of  the  Tih  is  in  truth  'a  great  and 
terrible  wilderness.'  The  last  winter,  too,  was  one  of 
unusual  drought  even  in  those  parched  regions,  and  the 
scattered  tribes  of  Arabs  who  live  there  experienced 

'  Addressed  to  the  Vice-Chancellor  of  the  University,     It  appeared 
in  '  Nature,'  May  1871. 


2W  REPORT   OX  THE 

great  difficulty  in  finding  pasture  for  the  herds  of 
camels  and  goats  which  exist  in  considerable  numbers 
in  some  districts. 

The  supply  of  water  is  very  scanty  and  variable,  as 
springs  nre  extremely  rare,  and  most  of  the  water  is 
obtained  from  '  Themail,'  or  pits  dug  in  the  gravelly 
beds  of  wadies,  and  similar  situations  into  which  the 
water  filtrates.  The  water  thus  obtained  is  very  bad, 
being  impregnated  either  Avitli  mineral  salts  or  lime,  to 
say  nothing  of  the  quantity  of  earthy  and  animal  matter 
held  in  suspension  by  its  being  constantly  stirred  up 
for  the  daily  use  of  the  Arabs  and  their  flocks,  who 
naturally  collect  in  the  neighbourhood  of  any  place 
where  water  is  to  be  had.  This  want  of  water  was  the 
greatest  drawback  to  the  satisfactory  exploration  of  the 
country;  want  of  food  may  be  contended  with,  ob- 
structive Bedawin  may  be  quieted,  and  trackless  moun- 
tains crossed,  but  the  absence  of  water  renders  a  country 
inipracticxible,  especially  to  those  who  travel  as  lightly 
laden  as  we  did,  dispensing  with  the  usual  suite  of 
dragoman  and  servants.  Picturesque  and  desirable  as 
a  large  retinue  and  guard  of  wild  Arabs  may  appear  to 
some  persons,  li:i(l  we  indulged  in  these  impedimenta,  I 
feel  convinced  that  we  should  never  have  got  through 
the  country  by  any  but  the  ordinary  route.  In  these 
districta  fertility  is  slowly  but  steadily  being  driven 
northwards,    for    various    traces    of    cultivation    and 


XATI'liAL   IIISTOllY   OF   THE   Till.  230 

dwellings  show  that  the  rainfall  must  formerly  have 
been  plentiful  and  regular,  for  surely  as  tillage  and  the 
consequent  vegetation  decreases,  so  will  the  rain-supply 
diminish  till  the  land  has  become  an  irreclaimable 
waste. 

The  manner  in  which  gardens  may  be  made  and 
will  afterwards  sustain   themselves,  is  well  shown  in 
those  which  still  flourish  at  Sinai,  notwithstanding  the 
neglect  of  the  present  degraded  inmates  of  the  convent. 
Even  in  those  parts  of  the  Tih  near  El  Aujeh  and 
Wady  el  Abyadh  v/hich,  from  internal  evidence,  must 
at  one  time,  and  that  within  our  era,  have  supported 
a  large  settled  population,  so  desolate  is  the  general 
aspect,  that,  to  a  casual  observer,  the  country  would 
seem  to  be  and  always  to  have  been  an  utter  waste. 
That  they  were  so  always  is,  however,  at  once  nega- 
tived  hy  the   existence  of  several  ruined  cities  sur- 
rounded  by  the    remains   of   extensive   gardens   and 
vineyards ;    of  these,  the  walls   alone   remain  to  tell 
their  tale.     The  vineyards  are  clearly  to  be  traced  on 
the  low  hills  and  rising  grounds  by  the  regular  heaps 
and  '  swathes  '  of  black  flints,  with  which  the  chief  part 
of  the  district  is  covered,  and  which  still  retain  the 
name  of  '  Teleilat  el  'Ancb  '  or  grape-mounds.     These 
facts  are  of  great   importance  as  showing   that   the 
objections  to  fixing  certain   localities — mentioned   in 
Scripture  ns  abounding  in  pasturage — in  what  is  now 


240  REPonr  ox  riiE 

completely  desert,  may  be  set  aside  as  worthless.  I 
consider,  too,  tliat  tlie  southern  limit  of  the  Promised 
Land,  at  the  time  of  the  Israelitish  invasion,  must  be 
placed  as  far  south  as  Wady  el  Abyadh.  This  would 
remove  many  dilficulties  hitherto  met  with  in  the  satis- 
factory identification  of  Kadesh.  Though  I  have  not 
space  to  enter  fully  into  the  question  here,  I  may  say 
that  there  is  strong  evidence  in  favour  of  fixing  that 
much-disputed  locality  at  Ain  Gadis  (first  discovered 
by  ]\Ir.  Rowlands,  though  he  seems  to  confuse  it  with 
Ain  el  Gudeirat).  Many  fiicts  support  this  supposi- 
tion— for  instance,  the  suitability  as  a  strategic  position 
for  a  camp  of  long  duration.  There  is  abundance  of 
water  there  even  at  the  present  day,  and  springs  are 
found  at  Ain  Muweileh  to  the  north  and  Biyar  Maayin 
to  the  south.  The  probability  is  great  that  a  large 
host  like  the  Israehtes,  encumbered  with  their  famihes 
and  herds,  would  take  the  easy  route  by  the  open 
country  to  the  west  of  the  Azazimeh  mountains  in 
preference  to  the  barren  and  rugged  passes  south-west 
of  the  Dead  Sea. 

The  desert  of  the  Tih  consists  of  a  succession  of 
liracstonc  plateaux  intersected  by  several  wadies,  of 
wliich  the  most  important  are  W.  el  Arish,  which  is 
jf>incxl  near  Nakhl  by  W.  Rowag,  W.  Garaiyeh,  with 
it8  tributaries  Mnyin,  Jerur,  Muweileh,  W.  el  Ain, 
wlii.-h  runs  into  W.  ,■]  Abvadli,  W.  Reliaibeli  and  W. 


NATURAL   HISTORY   OF  THE    TIH.  241 

Seba,  which  drain  into  the  Mediterranean.  W.  Ghamr 
and  W.  Jerafeh — the  names  of  which  have  been  inter- 
changed by  former  travellers — fall  into  the  northern 
slope  of  the  Anibeh,  and  so  run  into  the  Dead  Sea,  as 
also  do  Wadies  Murreh,  Maderah,  and  Figreh,  which 
debouch  into  the  Ghor  es  Safi. 

The  southernmost  limit  is  Jebel  el  Eahah  and  Jebel 
el  Tih  on  the  S.W.,  and  Jebel  el  'Ejmeh  on  the  S.  and 
S.E.,  which  together  form  a  cliiT  running  from  Suez  to 
Akabah,  and  projecting  into  the  peninsula  of  Sinai 
much  in  the  same  way  as  that  peninsula  projects  into 
the  Red  Sea.  The  height  of  tliis  chff  at  its  most  ele- 
vated point — on  Jebel  el  'Ejmeh — is  about  4,200  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  from  its  summit  the  ground  de- 
scends north-westwards. 

To  the  N.E.  of  the  Tih  rises  a  third  steppe  or  pro- 
montory, its  northern  portion  corresponding  to  the 
'  Negeb '  or  south-country  of  Scripture,  its  southern 
part  bearing  the  name  of  Jebel  Magnih,  sometimes  also 
called  '  the  mountains  of  the  Azazimeh,'  from  the  tribe 
of  Arabs  which  inhabits  it.  To  the  S.E.  of  this 
mountainous  region  we  came  upon  the  only  bed  of 
sandstone  which  occurs  thi'oughout  the  whole  country. 
It  belongs  to  the  same  formation  (New  Eed  sandstone) 
as  that  of  Petra  and  the  lower  strata  of  the  Dead  Sea 
basin. 

Having  carefully  considered  the  best  means  of 
R 


242  REPORT  ON  THE 

thoroughly  examliiiiig  the  Tih  plateau,  Mr.  Palmer  and 
myself  determined  to  proceed  along  the  base  of  Jebel 
el  Tih,  and  leaving  to  the  west  the  Nagbs  Emreiklieh 
and  er  Rtikineh — the  passes  on  the  ordinary  routes  for 
travellers  proceeding  northwards  from  Mount  Sinai — 
to  cross  Jebel  el  'Ejmeh  wherever  it  might  prove  prac- 
ticable, and  thus  proceed  through  a  hitherto  uutra- 
versed  district  to  Nakhl,  where  we  had  established  a 
depot  of  provisions,  and  where  we  should  have  to 
make  arrangements  with  a  different  tribe  of  Arabs  for 
carrying  our  baggage  northwards. 

This  plan  was  carried  out,  and  we  entered  the  Tih 
by  the  Nagb  el  Mirdd  on  January  12,  1870.  From 
the  summit  of  the  cliff — for  Jebel  el  'Ejmeh  has  no 
pretensions  to  be  called  a  mountain — a  magnificent 
view  is  obtained  of  the  Sinaitic  peninsula.  The  range 
itself  is  composed  of  mountain  limestone,  so  worn  and 
broken  by  the  action  of  frost  and  weather  that  the  hills 
are  covered  with  fine  detritus,  which,  after  rain,  would 
produce  some  herbage,  but  when  we  were  there  only  a 
few  dried-up,  stunted  bushes  were  to  be  seen,  which 
here  as  elsewhere  in  the  desert  supply  good  and 
abundant  fuel. 

From  Jebel  el  'Ejmeh  the  steep,  bleak,  waterworn 
hills  gradually  slope  down  and  fall  away  into  the  great 
plains,  or  ratlier,  low  plateaux,  which  stretch  across  to 
the    Mediterranean.     The    sameness   of    outhne    and 


NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  THE   TIH  243 

dreariness  of  this  country  is  something  terrible:  the 
few  shrubs  that  exist  are  grey  or  brown,  and  seemingly 
withered  and  dead ;  no  animal  life  enlivens  the  scene — 
at  times  perhaps  a  stray  vulture  or  raven  may  be  seen 
saihng  far  away  in  the  blue  sky,  a  frightened  lizard 
will  start  from  beneath  one's  feet,  or  a  small  flight  of 
locusts  be  disturbed  from  their  scanty  meal  on  some 
'  retem '  bush.  Water  on  the  road  there  was  absolutely 
none ;  a  supply  for  four  days  had  to  be  carried  from 
El  Biyar,  a  well  strongly  impregnated  with  Epsom 
salts,  and  lying  a  few  miles  to  the  south  of  Nagb  el 
Mirad. 

Under  these  conditions  we  can  scarcely  expect  to 
meet  with  many  signs  of  life.  Judging  from  the 
numerous  cairns  and  other  primeval  remains,  this 
district  must  at  one  time  have  been  populous.  Wearily 
did  I  tramp  day  after  day,  gun  in  hand,  but  I  was 
seldom  rewarded  with  anything  more  than  a  stray 
beetle  or  lizard,  and  now  and  then  some  small  desert 
bird,  and  on  very  rare  occasions  a  hare  or  snake. 

As  from  former  experience  we  had  found  that  it 
was  impossible  to  work  a  country  thoroughly  when 
mounted,  we  only  employed  enough  camels  to  carry 
our  baggage.  The  camel-drivers  acted  as  guides,  and, 
to  a  certain  extent,  as  attendants,  for  we  took  no  ser- 
vants whatever.  This  added  to  our  already  heavy 
work,  yet  it  enabled  us  to  get  on  much  more  satis- 

R  2 


244  REPORT  OX  THE 

fiictorily  with  the  various  Arab  tribes  than  we  could 
otherwise  have  done. 

From  tlie  Nagb  el  Mirad  our  course  lay  down 
Wady  Rowsig,  which  takes  its  rise  in  the  highest  part 
of  Jcbel  el  'Ejmeh,  about  eighteen  miles  east  of  the 
"head  of  Wady  el  Arish,  with  which  it  holds  a  nearly 
parallel  course  till  it  joins  it  at  a  short  distance  to  the 
north-east  of  Nakhl.  The  district  between  Wady  el 
AHsh  and  Wady  Eowag  is  drained  by  W.  Ghabiyeh, 
which  falls  into  the  latter  about  twenty-five  miles  from 
the  Nagb  el  Mirad ;  after  this  junction  the  country 
becomes  open  and  comparatively  level.  Here  the 
ground  is  almost  as  hard  as  a  macadamised  road,  and 
is  covered  with  a  layer  of  small  black  polished  flints, 
which  glisten  in  the  sun  as  though  they  were  wet. 
This  polish  must  be  attributed  to  the  dust  and  grit 
kept  in  motion  by  the  almost  incessant  winds,  which 
are  frequently  very  violent.  Many  of  the  monuments 
in  Egypt  bear  witness  to  the  destructive  action  of  the 
grit.  In  this  desert  sand  is  almost  unknown.  There 
arc  only  two  or  three  sandy  tracts,  and  these  may  be 
traversed  in  a  few  hours  at  most.  The  largest  sandy 
distriri.  w(>  had  to  cross  was  the  Rumeilet  Hamed,  to 
the  north  of  Khalasah  (tlie  ancient  Elusa),  where  the 
prevailing  n()itli-\v(\st  winds  liave  formed  extensive 
dunes.  Tiiis  sand,  however,  seems  to  have  been 
entirely  brought  from  the  coast. 


NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  THE  TIH.  245 

On  arriving  at  Naklil  we  found  a  small  fort  with 
wells  and  cisterns.  In  this  dreary  spot,  encompassed 
by  glaring  white  hills,  a  few  miserable  soldiers  are 
maintained  by  the  Egyptian  Government  for  the  pro- 
tection of  the  Hajj  caravan,  the  place  being  halfway 
between  Snez  and  Akabah.  Here  we  were  obliged  to 
dismiss  the  Towarah  Arabs,  and  taking  up  our  pro- 
visions which  we  had  sent  on  from  Suez,  we  entered 
into  an  agreement  with  the  Teyahah,  who,  after  con- 
siderable discussion  and  futile  attempts  to  extort  a  large 
'  ghafr '  or  black  mail,  engaged  to  take  us  anywhere 
we  wished  through  their  country. 

Of  the  various  tribes  which  inhabit  the  Desert  of 
the  Tih,  the  most  numerous  and  powerful  are  tlie 
Teyahah,  of  whom  there  are  two  divisions,  the  Sagairat 
and  the  Benaiyat,  and  truly  they  were,  as  their  name 
implies,  '  birds  of  prey.'  They  possess  large  herds  of 
camels  whose  numbers  are  frequently  increased  by  the 
product  of  the  raids  which  they  make  on  their  here- 
ditary foes  the  'Anazeh,  whose  territory  lies  around 
Palmyra  and  to  the  east  of  the  Hauran,  and  is  about 
twenty  days'  joiu'ney  from  the  Tih.  These  forays  are 
sometimes  carried  out  on  a  large  scale ;  on  the  last 
occasion  the  Teyahah  numbered  1,000  guns.  At  times 
the  plunder  amounts  to  many  hundred  camels,  but  at 
others  the  owners  come  down  in  force,  and  the  aggres- 
sors are  compelled  to  retire.     Bloodshed  in  these  free- 


246  REPORT  ON  THE 

booting  expeditions  and  even  actual  warfare  is  avoided 
as  much  as  possible,  for  it  results  in  a  blood  feud  which 
is  always  much  dreaded  by  a  Bedawi,  smce  it  binds  the 
relatives  of  anyone  who  has  perished  either  by  miu-der 
or  manslaughter — the  Arabs  do  not  distinguish  between 
them — to  avenge  his  death.  The  blood  feud  or  ven- 
detta thus  exercises  a  most  salutary  influence,  for  with- 
out it  the  value  of  human  life  would  be  totally  dis- 
regarded in  these  wild  regions  which  lie  beyond  the 
pale  of  the  law. 

The  Terabin,  the  tribe  next  in  importance,  occupy 
the  country  east  of  the  Teyahah,  their  territory  ex- 
tending from  Jebel  Bisher  and  Bir  Abu  Suweirah  on 
the  Sinai  road  some  forty  miles  south-east  of  Suez,  as 
far  as  Gaza  to  the  north. 

The  Haiwatt  live  in  the  mountains  to  the  west  and 
north-west  of  Akabah,  and  are  not  numerous. 

The  Azazimeh  occupy  the  mountainous  region 
wliich  I  have  before  mentioned  as  beai'ing  their  name  : 
this  tiibe  is  not  large,  and  they  are  exceedingly  poor  ; 
their  only  food  consists  of  the  milk  and  cheese  ob- 
tained from  their  cjimels  and  goats  and  such  roots  as 
they  can  dig  up.  On  very  rai'e  occasions  they  may 
have  tlie  luck  to  slioot  some  wild  animal,  which, 
whether  it  be  ibex  or  hya3na,  is  equally  acceptable  to 
their  not  over-squeamish  stomachs.  They  are  obliged 
to  li\c  ni  very  small  ;iud  scattered  communities,  from 


NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  THE   TtH.  247 

the  fact  that,  with  the  exception  of  one  or  two 
brackish  and  unpalatable  springs,  their  only  water 
supply  is  derived  from  the  rains  collected  in  hollows  of 
rocks  in  the  ravines  and  wady  beds,  and  even  these 
few  and  far  between.  This  water  was  usually  putrid 
and  full  of  most  uninviting  animalcula ;  however,  as 
no  other  was  to  be  had,  we  were  obliged  to  drink  it. 

From  Nakhl  we  went  in  a  north-westerly  direction 
to  Wady  Garaiyeh,  thence  to  Jebel  'Araif,  which  we 
ascended ;  thougli  it  is  Httle  more  than  2,000  ft.  high, 
the  view  is  very  extensive.  We  then  proceeded  to 
cross  Wady  Mayin,  W.  Lussan,  and  W.  Jeriir,  and 
afterwards  reached  Ain  Muweileh  (the  supposed  site  of 
Hagar's  well).  Here  are  very  numerous  primeval 
stone  remains,  the  most  remarkable  being  piles  of 
stones  placed  in  rows  at  the  edges  of  the  cliffs  which 
face  the  East.  Cannot  they  be  the  remains  of  the 
old  Baal  worship  followed  by  the  Amorites,  whose 
name  is  still  preserved  in  the  country  to  the  north  of 
W.  Muweileh,  at  Dheigat  el  'Amerin  (the  ravine  of 
the  Amorites),  Eas  'Amir,  and  Sheikh  el  'Amiri  ? 
At  various  places  on  our  route,  especially  at  'Uggabeh 
— between  Nakhl  and  W.  Garayieh — on  S.  el  'Ejmell, 
S.  'Araif  in  Wady  Lussan,  we  found  very  large  num- 
bers of  cairns,  stone  circles  with  graves,  and  open 
spaces,  which,  to  judge  from  the  burnt  earth  within 
them,  seemed    to   have   been    designed  for  sacrificial 


248  liEPOIiT  OX  THE 

purposes ;  also  enclosures,  girt  by  rude  stone  walls ; 
and,  in  W.  el  Biyar,  circular  dwellings,  some  of  which 
are  still  standing,  quite  perfect.  In  W.  Eowag  nearly 
every  hill  is  topi)ed  by  a  cairn  ;  there  are  three  on 
the  summit  of  Jebel  'Araif,  and  we  noticed  that  they 
frequently  occurred  as  far  north  as  Bir  Seba  and  El 
Milh  (Molada). 

At  Muweileh  and  near  a  neighbouring  spring,  Ain 
Guseimeh,  are  several  caves.  At  the  former  place 
there  is  one  cut  in  the  face  of  the  cliff,  and  entered 
by  a  staircase,  ascending  from  a  smaller  cave  below ; 
this  has  been  at  one  time  the  dwelling  of  a  Christian 
hermit,  as  we  noticed  crosses  rudely  painted  in  red 
and  traces  of  frescoes.  At  this  place,  too,  we  found, 
with  the  exception  of  one  place  in  W.  Lussdn,  the 
first  signs  of  regular  cultivation  in  former  times. 
Stones  are  laid  in  hues  across  the  wady-beds  to  check 
and,  at  the  same  time,  distribute  the  drainage,  and  to 
prevent  the  soil  being  washed  down  by  a  sudden  seil 
or  flood. 

Our  next  point  was  El  Birein,  so  called  from  the 
tico  wells  in  the  wady  ;  here  are  traces  of  considerable 
ruins,  a  fiskiyeh,  or  reservoir,  or  aqueduct,  the  latter 
ruined,  and  tlie  former  nearly  so.  In  the  wady  are 
some  old  butineh  or  terebinth  trees,  remarkable  as 
being  the  first  trees,  witli  the  exception  of  two  'seyals' 
or   acacias,   that    wv    had    seen   since   leaving   Sinai. 


NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  TUE   TIH.  -     240 

About  six  miles  N.W.  of  El  Birein  lie  the  ruins  of 
El  'Aujeh,  confounded  by  Dr.  Eobinson  with  'Abdeh, 
which  I  shall  presently  mention,  situated  on  a  low  spur 
running  into  W.  Hanein.  This  valley,  however,  on 
account  of  a  superstition  attaching  to  its  real  name, 
has  always  been  called  by  the  Arabs,  when  speaking 
to  travellers,  W.  Hafir.  Some  five  or  six  square  miles 
of  the  wady  are  covered  with  ruined  walls  of  gardens 
and  fields ;  the  sides  of  the  watercourse  are  built  up 
with  large  stones,  and  dams  still  exist  across  it,  though 
all  the  valley  is  now  barren  and  neglected.  Ten  miles 
to  the  east  of  El  Aujeh  we  discovered  the  ruins  of 
a  fortress  called  '  El  Meshrifeh,'  perched  on  a  project- 
ing spur,  and  defended  on  two  sides  by  steep  cliffs, 
which  overlook  a  broad  plain  formed  by  the  sweep  of 
Wady  El  Abyadh  as  it  debouches  from  Jebel  Magrah ; 
the  south  face  of  the  cliff  is  fortified  by  escarpments 
and  towers  of  massive  masonry,  and  on  the  summit 
are  ruins  of  several  houses,  and  of  a  small  church  ;  on 
the  third  side  a  thick  wall  runs  across  the  level  crest 
of  the  spur.  Beneath  the  towers  and  in  connection 
wdth  them  are  numerous  rock-hewn  chambers ;  also 
traces  of  a  more  ancient  and,  indeed,  primeval  wall, 
and  pieces  of  masonry  of  a  date  far  anterior  to  the 
rest  of  the  buildings. 

On  the  plain  above  mentioned  and  three  miles  and 
a  half  to  the  S.E.  of  El  Meshrifeh  we  found  the  ruins 


250  REPORT   OX  THE 

of  a  cousiderablc  town  called  S'baita.  This  name 
seems  to  have  been  heard  of  by  former  travellers, 
who  confounded  the  site  with  Echaibeh  ;  but  I  believe 
we  were  the  first  Europeans  to  visit  the  ruins.  Here, 
as  in  many  other  cases,  we  experienced  considerable 
difficulty,  owing  to  the  apprehensions  of  oiu"  Bedawin, 
who  did  their  best  to  dissuade  us  from  going  there. 
I  succeeded,  however,  in  taking  sketches  and  photo- 
graphs of  the  chief  points  of  interest.  The  town  con- 
tains three  churches,  which,  like  those  at  El  Aujeh,  El 
Meshrifeh,  and  S'adi,  must,  I  think,  be  referred  to  the 
fifth  century.  There  are  also  two  reservoirs,  and  a 
tower  with  a  rudely  ornamented  gateway.  With  the 
exception  of  a  fragment  or  two  at  El  Aujeh,  this  was 
the  only  instance  of  sculpture  we  saw,  and  not  a  single 
inscription  was  anywhere  to  be  found. 

The  structure  of  the  buildings  at  S'baita  is  worth 
noticing  :  the  upper  stories  of  the  houses  are  sup- 
ported on  wide,  low-spanned  arches  two  feet  wide  with 
intervals  of  tliree  feet  between  them,  and  upon  these 
is  placed  the  flooring  of  the  upper  rooms,  which  con- 
sists of  narrow  slabs  of  stone.  Numerous  ruined 
towers  and  walled  gardens  and  enclosures,  extending 
to  a  disUmce  of  several  miles  from  the  town,  attest 
it.s  f(jrmer  importance.  The  vineyards,  too,  marked 
by  the  '  Teleilat  el  'A neb,'  which  I  mentioned  before, 
extend  over  large  tracts  in  this  neighbourhood. 


NATURAL  UISTORY  OF  THE   TIH.  251 

From  S'baita  we  went  to  Rehaibeh,  examining  en 
route  the  ruins  of  S'adi,  which  do  not  seem  to  have 
been  visited  or  even  heard  of  by  former  travellers. 
At  Eehaibeh  the  ruins  are  of  much  greater  extent 
than  at  S'adi,  but  so  confused  that  it  is  impossible  to 
trace  the  plan  of  any  single  building.  There  are 
numerous  wells,  cisterns,  and  other  remains  of  culti- 
vation in  the  neighbourhood.  From  Eehaibeh  we 
went  to  Khalasah  and  Bir  Seba :  the  ruins  at  the 
former  place  have  nearly  disappeared,  as  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Gaza  find  it  cheaper  to  send  camels  for  the 
already  squared  stones  than  to  quarry  them  near  their 
town.  Owing  to  the  drought  we  found  Bir  Seba 
barren  and  deserted,  though  our  Arabs  assiured  us  that 
in  good  seasons  the  grass  is  knee-deep,  and  furnishes 
ample  pasturage  for  countless  flocks  and  herds.  Our 
unlooked-for  appearance  in  out-of-the-way  districts 
was  usually  considered  by  the  natives  to  be  in  some 
manner  connected  with  the  exceptional  drought,  and 
on  several  occasions  we  were  either  implored  to  bring 
rain  or  cursed  for  the  want  of  it,  since  the  Arabs 
firmly  believe  that  every  Nasrdni  holds  the  weather 
under  his  control. 

From  Bir  Seba  we  went  to  Jerusalem,  and,  after 
a  short  stay  there,  returned  to  Hebron,  where  we 
engaged  three  of  the  Jehalin  Arabs,  with  their  camels, 
to  convey  oiu'  baggage  to  Petra.     Taking  a  new  route. 


252  REPORT   OX  THE 

we  passed  Tell  Anid  and  El  Milli,  and  struck  into 
the  unexplored  mountains  of  the  'Azazimeh,  where 
we  discovered  the  ruins  of  the  El  'Abdeh  (Eboda), 
which  are  of  considerable  extent,  and  similarly  placed 
to  those  of  El  Meshrifeh,  most  of  the  dwellings  here, 
as  there,  being  half  excavated  and  half  built.  Of 
the  buildings  now  standing,  the  greater  part  are  of 
Christkm  times.  The  natives  are  perfect  savages,  and 
detained  us  for  two  hours  from  visiting  the  ruins  by 
collecting  in  a  gang  to  the  number  of  thirteen  on  the 
top  of  a  })ass,  singing  their  war-song,  throwing  down 
stones,  and  occasionally  firing  off  one  of  their  old 
matchlocks  in  bravado,  and  swearing  by  God  and  the 
Prophet  tliat  no  one  should  come  up.  As  the  pass 
was  very  narrow,  almost  precipitous,  we  judged  it  best 
to  propitiate  them,  a  task  accomplished,  after  much 
discussion,  at  the  cost  of  eight  shilhngs.  They  then 
escorted  us  to  the  ruins,  where  we  took  such  measure- 
ments and  photographs  as  we  required.  From  'Abdeh 
we  went  through  the  'Azazimeh  mountain,  a  region 
8o  awfully  desolate  as  to  defy  description,  struck  the 
'Arabali  at  tlie  junction  of  W.  Jerafeh  with  W. 
Ghamz,  and  crossed  thence  to  Petra.  Here  the  Liya- 
thineh  fully  maintained  their  character  for  brutality 
nnd  insolence.  Infidels  in  all  but  the  name  of 
Moslims,  they  are  descended  from  the  tribe  of  Khai- 
beri  Jews,  who  bear  sudi  a  bad  character  in  Arabia. 


NATURAL   HISTORY  OF  THE   TIH  253 

To  add  to  our  discomfort,  we  were  snowed  up  for 
two  days  in  a  tent  only  just  large  enough  for  us  both 
to  lie  down  in.  During  a  stay  of  six  days,  however, 
Petra  was  thoroughly  examined  by  us  and  accurately 
mapped.  We  then  bent  our  steps  northwards,  and 
at  El  Barid,  about  seven  miles  from  Petra,  discovered 
a  colony  of  dwellings  and  temples  cut  in  the  rock, 
and  some  rudely  chipped  Nabatheean  inscriptions. 
The  walls  and  ceilings  of  the  rock-chambers  were 
decorated  with  frescoes,  some  coarse,  others  well 
executed.  We  next  travelled  down  the  'Arabah  to 
the  Dead  Sea,  and,  having  examined  the  Lisan,  went 
up  into  Moab.  Here  we  stopped  about  three  weeks 
and  wandered  over  the  country  in  search  of  inscrip- 
tions, as  Mr.  Palmer  had  specially  come  to  ascertain  if 
another  Moabite  stone  was  in  existence.  At  last, 
however,  we  both  came  to  the  conclusion  that  ahom 
ground  there  are  none.  From  Moab  we  crossed  the 
Jordan,  near  Jericho,  and  returned  to  Jerusalem. 

The  following  are  the  various  observations  I  have 
made  and  tales  I  have  collected  about  some  of  the 
birds  and  mammals  found  in  the  desert  of  Tih  and 
adjoining  regions.  For  convenience  of  reference  I 
have  arranged  them  alphabetically.  In  the  cases  of 
well-known  animals,  or  of  such  as  have  been  before 
scientifically  described,  I  confine  myself  chiefly  to  the 
Arab  stories  or  legends  attaching  fo  them. 


254  REPORT   ON  THE 

Bears  (Ursus  syriacus),  Arabic  Dabb,  are  still 
found  on  Moimt  Herraon  and  the  Anti-Lebanon,  and 
must  formerly  have  existed  in  Palestine,  but  the 
destruction  of  the  woods  has  now  driven  them  north- 
wards. They  do  much  damage  to  the  vineyards  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Hermon,  but  seldom  interfere  with 
the  herds  of  goats.  The  Arabs  share  in  the  widely 
spread  beUef  that  bears  sustain  themselves  during  their 
hybernation  by  sucking  their  paws.  They  also  say 
that  when  the  female  drops  her  cub  it  is  quite  shape- 
less, and  that  she  carries  it  about  in  her  mouth  for 
fear  lest  it  should  be  devoured  by  the  ants,  and  then 
licks  it  into  proper  shape.  Bear's  grease  is  said  to  be 
useful  in  cases  of  leprosy. 

Boar,  wild,  Ar.  Ilalhouf,  or  usually  in  Palestine, 
Khanzir,  which  simply  means  pig.  These  animals  are 
ver}'  abundant  wherever  there  is  cover  near  water,  as 
on  the  banks  of  the  Jordan  and  in  the  Ghor  es  Safi 
at  tlic  S.  of  the  Dead  Sea.  I  was  much  surprised  to 
find  traces  of  recent  rooting  by  them  in  the  W. 
lliklianiali,  whicli  lies  between  El  Milh  and  'Abdeh. 
This  place  is  far  from  any  water  except  what  may 
have  collected  in  hollow  rocks,  and  can  boast  of  no 
cover.  The  Azazimeh  eat  the  wild  boar,  but  the 
Ghawarineh,  who  will  eat  a  hyaana,  though  it  is  known 
to  ircciuent  the  graveyards,  will  not  touch  them. 

Ill  this,  as  in  tho  case  of  the  other  animals.  I  can 


NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  THE   TIH.  255 

insert  but  a  few  amongst  the  many  medicinal  uses  to 
which  they  are  put  by  the  Arabs,  as  these  are  in 
general  unsuited  to  the  taste  of  European  readers. 

Bustard  (Otis  huhara\  Ar.  Huhara.  I  noticed  a 
few  of  these  birds  in  the  Tih  ;  the  Arabs  say  that  the 
lesser  bustard  {Otis  tetra.x),  which  is  also  occasionally 
found  there,  is  the  young  of  the  larger,  but  does  not 
attain  its  full  growth  for  two  years.  They  also  say 
that  these  birds,  when  attacked  by  a  falcon,  will  cover 
it  with  their  fseces,  and  so  drive  it  off. 

Camel,  Ar.  masc.  jemel,  fem.  ndgah.  A  stalhon 
camel  is  called  fahl.  Collectively,  ihil  vulgo  Ml  or 
hair,  pi.  aardn.  Bejjin  is  usually  applied  to  a  drome- 
dary, but  is  properly  used  of  a  man,  horse,  or  camel 
having  an  Arab  sire  and  foreign  dam,  which,  in  the 
case  of  the  animals,  is  considered  the  best  possible 
cross.  Hence,  a  dromedary  (or  well-bred  camel  used 
for  riding)  is  so  called. 

Camels  are  most  peevish  animals,  docile  only  from 
stupidity ;  ill-tempered,  they  never  forget  an  injury. 
I  have  but  once  seen  a  camel  show  the  shghtest  sign 
of  affection  for  its  owner,  although  they  are  always 
well  treated.  All  their  feelings  of  hke  and  dislike, 
pleasure  and  annoyance,  are  expressed  by  a  hideous 
sound  between  a  bellow  and  a  roar,  to  which  they 
give  utterance  whether  they  are  being  loaded  or  un- 
loaded, whether  they  are  being  fed  or  urged  over  a 


25G  REPORT   ON   THE 

difficult  pass ;  in  fact,  tliey  disapprove  of  whatever  is 
done.  Without  them,  however,  it  would  be  impos- 
sible to  cross  the  deserts,  for  uo  other  animal  could 
endure  the  fatigue  and  want  of  water  ;  I  have  myself 
seen  a  camel  refuse  water  after  having  been  without 
any  for  tlu'ee  days.  For  their  food  they  always 
choose  the  most  unmviting  thorny  shrubs  ;  the  seya 
(acacia),  which  has  thorns  two  or  three  inches  long, 
is  an  especial  favourite  with  them.  Many  of  the 
Arabs  subsist  almost  entirely  upon  the  milk  and 
cheese  afforded  by  their  herds  of  camels. 

The  pelican  is  called  jemel  el  ma^  or  water  camel ; 
and  the  chameleon,  jemel  el  yehiid^  the  Jew's  camel. 

Cat,  or  Kutt.  also  Sinnaur  and  Ilirr.  According 
to  some  lexicographers,  the  first  name  is  not  a  pure 
Arabic  word.  Cats  are  held  in  great  estimation  in 
the  East,  and  large  prices  are  sometimes  paid  by  native 
ladies  for  fine  Persian  specimens.  In  Cairo  a  sum  of 
money  was  left  in  trust  to  feed  i)oor  cats,  who  daily 
receive  their  rations  at  the  Mahkemah  (law  courts). 

Tliough  the  Arabs  in  Sinai  and  the  Tih  spoke  of  a 
wild  cat,  gatt  berri,  I  found  that  this  was  always  the 
lynx  {Felis  caracal),  which  is  called  in  some  parts  of 
Arabia  'i?iah  el  ardh,  or  earth-kid ;  in  Sinai,  it  is  also 
8i)okcn  of  as  dnazeh  (from  linz,  a  she~goat).  In 
Morocco,  it  is  only  known  as  oivddl 

I  may  liiTe  remark  that  tin-  woid  Fahd^  translated 


NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  THE   tIh.  257 

by  Lane  and  others  as  '  lynx ' — an  animal  tliat  is 
never  used  for  hunting — really  means  the  cheeta^  or 
hunting  leopard  of  Persia  and  India. 

The  Arabs  in  the  Tih  and  in  Morocco,  as  well  as 
the  Fellahin  in  Egypt,  eat  the  lynx,  and  esteem  it  a 
delicacy,  but,  as  some  of  them  eat  hyasnas,  jackals, 
foxes,  vultures,  and  ravens,  they  can  hardly  be  quoted 
as  Epicurean  authorities. 

Many  animals  have  in  Arabic  a  large  number  of 
names,  more  than  5 GO,  for  instance,  being  applied  to 
the  lion.  The  following  story  current  among  them 
will  illustrate  this  fact  with  reference  to  the  cat.  A 
Bedawi  was  out  hunting  one  day,  and  caught  a  cat, 
but  did  not  know  what  animal  it  could  be.  As  he 
was  carrying  it  along  -with  liim,  he  met  a  man,  who 
said,  '  Wliat  are  you  going  to  do  with  that  Sinnaur  P  ' 
Then  another  asked  him,  'What  is  that  Kutt  for?' 
A  third  called  it  hin\  and  others  styled  it  successively 
dhayiin,  hhaida,  and  khaital.  So  the  Bedawi  thought 
to  himself,  this  must  be  a  very  valuable  animal,  and 
took  it  to  the  market,  where  he  offered  it  for  sale  at 
100  dirhems.  At  this  the  people  laughed  and  said, 
'  Knowest  thou  not,  0  Bedawi,  that  it  would  be  dear 
at  half  a  dirhem  ? '  He  was  enraged  at  having  his 
dream  of  wealth  thus  rudely  dispelled,  and  flung  it 
away,  exclaiming,  '  May  thy  house  be  ruined,  thou 
beast  of  many  names,  but  httle  worth  ! ' 

S 


258  liEPORT   OX   THE 

The  Arabs  say  that  the  occasion  of  the  cat's  first 
appearance  was  as  follows.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
ark  were  much  troubled  with  mice:  Noah,  in  his 
perplexity,  stroked  the  lion's  nose,  and  made  him 
sneeze,  whereupon  a  cat  appeared  and  cleared  oflf  the 
mice. 

In  the  East,  as  in  Europe,  a  black  cat  is  regarded 
a,s  'uncanny,'  and  various  parts  of  it  are  used  for 
magical  and  medicinal  purposes ;  its  claws,  for  instance, 
are  said  to  be  a  charm  against  the  nightmare. 

Coney  (JTyrax  syriacus)^  Ar.  Waber  (lit.  fur,  from 
the  thickness  of  their  coats)  ghanem  beni  Israel — sheep 
of  the  sons  of  Israel.  Some  Arabs  say  that  this 
animal  may  be  eaten,  but  others,  as  in  Sinai,  declare 
that  it  is  unlawful,  and  call  it  Abu  Salman,  or  else  the 
brother  of  man,  and  say  that  it  was  originally  a  man 
who  was  mctiimorphosed  for  his  sins,  and  they  believe 
that  any  one  who  eats  him  will  never  see  his  house 
again.  It  is  a  common  joke  among  the  Hajjis  and 
people  <^f  Mecca  to  say  '  A  good  digestion  to  you  who 
have  eaten  Abu  Salman.' 

Dog,  Ar.  Kelb  (in  Morocco  ^*(?w,  which  properly 
pignifies  puppy,  whelp),  is  the  ordinary  dog.  A  large 
kind  of  rough  groyhouud  is  called  Selu/ci,  from  the 
town  Seluk,  in  Yeinen.'  This  dog  much  resembles 
the  Scotch  dccrhound  (cf.   Gaelic  name,  slogie).     In 

'  TIip  usiml  derivation.  Ikiwovit,  is  '  Scleucia.' 


NATURAL   HISTORY  OF  THE   Till.  259 

Syria  and  east  of  the  Jordan  tliere  is  a  variety  wliicli 
is  smooth,  but  has  its  ears,  tail,  and  legs  feathered  like 
a  setter ;  the  females  are  said  to  be  keener  for  hunting 
than  the  males,  and  black  dogs  are  said  to  be  the 
most  patient.  The  dogs  in  Eastern  towns  live  in  com- 
munities, and  have  distinct  bounds,  usually  ending  at 
a  street  corner,  and  woe  betide  any  dog  who  wanders 
beyond  his  own  proper  limits.  I  have  often,  when 
living  at  Cairo,  amused  myself  by  watching  these 
animals.  No  sooner  does  a  strange  dog  appear  than 
all  the  rightful  owners  of  the  soil  rush  at  him ;  the 
intruder  takes  to  his  heels,  but  the  moment  he  has 
reached  his  own  frontier,  he  turns  round  and  snarls 
defiantly  at  his  pursuers,  and  if  they  do  not  quickly 
retire  his  friends  come  to  his  assistance  and  drive  them 
back  in  turn. 

Dogs  are  said  to  have  an  intense  liatred  of  hycenas, 
so  much  so  that  if  a  dog  is  smeared  with  the  fat  of  a 
hyo3na,  he  will  go  mad  ;  and — which  seems  inconse- 
quent— if  a  person  carries  a  hyiena's  tongue  the  dogs 
will  not  bark  at  him.  Tliis  certainly  would  be  most 
useful  on  entering  an  Arab  encampment,  for  there  a 
stranger  is  immediately  surrounded  by  a  pack  of 
snarling  brutes,  who  seem  to  sleep  all  day  with  one 
eye  open,  and  at  niglit  to  be  continually  awake  and 
barking,  either  to  frigliten  away  some  prowling  jackal 


200  REPORT   OX   THE 

or  lynx,  or  to  repress  some  errant  sheep  or  goat  who 
may  wish  to  wander  outside  the  circle  of  tents. 

The  Arabs  believe  that  a  dog  can  tell  a  dead 
person  from  one  feigning  death,  and  say  that  the 
Greeks  {Room)  never  bury  a  person  till  they  have 
exposed  him  to  the  dogs.  It  is,  however,  of  only  one 
breed  that  this  is  asserted,  namely,  the  kind  called  el 
Kalti,  and  which  is  of  small  size,  with  very  short 
lejjs.  It  is  also  called  the  Chinese  do£^.  Of  the 
origin  of  this  story  I  am  quite  ignorant.  The  fol- 
lowing is  almost  identical  with  a  well-known  Northern 
legend : — 

A  king  had  a  favourite  dog,  whom  he  left  at  home 
one  day  while  he  went  out  hunting.  Having  ordered 
his  cook  to  prepare  a  dish  of  lehen  (sour  milk)  for  him 
on  his  return,  the  cook  obeyed  the  order,  but  care- 
lessly left  the  milk  uncovered,  and  a  snake  came  and 
drank  of  it  and  rendered  it  poisonous.  On  the  king's 
return  the  dog  tried  to  prevent  him  from  touching  it ; 
at  this  moment  the  cook  came  in  with  some  bread, 
whirl  1  the  king  took  and  began  to  dip  into  the  lebe?i, 
wlien  the  dog  immediately  bit  his  hand.  Upon  this 
the  king  was  very  angry,  and  stretched  out  his  hand 
again  to  the  bowl ;  the  dog,  however,  was  before  him, 
and  ])ogan  to  lap  the  sop,  whereupon  it  straightway 
fell  down  (lead.  Tiie  king  llien  became  aware  of  the 
sagacity  and  faithfulness  of  tlie  beast,  whose  loss  he 


NA.TURAL   HISrOUY  OF  THE   Till.  2GI 

mourned  ever  after,  and  erected  a  splendid  tomb  to 
his  memory. 

Donkey,  Ar.  Himdr.  The  donkey,  much  used  by 
the  Ai'abs  (for  it  will  thrive  in  the  desert  where  a 
horse  could  not  exist),  chiefly  for  carrying  waterskins, 
as  the  Bedawin  often  encamp  several  miles  from  water, 
and  the  women  bring  up  a  supply  every  two  or  three 
days.^  At  Damascus  there  are  three  breeds  of  donkeys 
— (1)  The  white,  which  is  most  valuable,  being  some- 
times worth  30/.  or  40/.,  and  in  Egypt  I  have  heard 
of  60/.  being  given  for  a  fine  animal  of  this  kind ; 
(2)  the  ordinary  donkey,  which  is  used  for  riding, 
&c. ;  (3)  a  large  donkey,  standing  from  13  to  14  hands, 
which  is  used  for  carrying  burdens  in  the  town ;  in 
the  country,  however,  it  is  useless,  as,  unlike  the  other 
breeds,  it  is  far  from  sure-footed. 

The  wild  donkey,  Ar.  Air ^f era,  or  himdr  icahshi, 
is  found  to  the  east  of  Damascus ;  it  is  said  to  be  very 
long-hved. 

Dugong  [Halicore  Hemprichii),  Ar.  otum  (called 
by  Dr.  Eobinson  tiin).  This  curious  mammal  is  found 
in  the  Eed  Sea,  and  harpooned  by  the  fishermen  as  it 
basks  on  the  surface  of  the  water.  The  skin  is  used 
by  the  Sinai  Bedawin  to  make  sandals  of,  for  which 
piu-pose  it  is  admirably  adapted.     In  some  parts  of 

^  A  tribe  in  the  desert,  towards  the  Euphrates,  is  said  to  use  donkeys 
oidy,  and  to  possess  neither  horses  nor  camels. 


262  RErORT   ON   THE 

Arabia,  it  is  said  tliat  khifaf^  or  boots  to  protect  the 
camels'  feet  from  the  rocks,  are  made  of  it.  Some 
commentators  Uike  the  Heb.  tachash,  which  is  trans- 
luted  "  badger-skins,'  to  mean  the  otum,  and  there  is 
an  Arabic  word,  Tukkas,  apphed  to  the  dolphin  species 
generally. 

Fox,  Ar,  Tadleh^  Ahou'l  Ilusein.  In  the  East,  as 
in  Em'ope,  this  animal  is  looked  upon  as  the  t3rpe  of 
cunning,  and  numberless  stories  are  current  concerning 
it.     The  following  are  examples : — 

When  a  fox  is  overmuch  troubled  with  fleas,  he 
plucks  out  a  mouthful  of  his  hair,  and  then  he  takes 
to  the  water,  holding  the  tuft  in  his  mouth ;  all  the 
fleas  creep  u})  on  to  this  to  escape  drowning,  and  the 
fox  then  drops  it  into  the  stream  and  retires,  freed 
from  his  enemies. 

The  celebrated  Arabic  author  and  theologian,  Esh 
Shafiey,  relates  that  when  in  Yemen,  he  and  his  fellow 
travellers  prepared  two  fowls  for  dinner  one  day,  but 
the  hour  of  prayer  coming  on,  they  left  them  on  the 
table  and  went  to  perform  their  devotions ;  meanwhile 
a  fox  came  and  stole  one.  After  their  prayers  were 
flnished,  they  saw  the  fox  prowling  about  with  their 
chicken  in  his  mouth,  so  they  pursued  him  and  he 
dropi)ed  it;  on  coming  up  nearer  to  it,  however,  they 
found  it  only  to  be  a  piece  of  palm  fibre,  which  the 
fox  Iiad  dioi)pL'tl  to  attract  theii'  attention,  and  had,  in 


NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  THE   T/H  263 

the  meantime,  crept  round  and  carried  off  tlie  second 
chicken  and  left  tliem  dinnerless. 

Tlie  fox  is  said  to  feign  death,  and  to  inliate  his 
body,  and  when  any  animal,  prompted  by  curiosity, 
comes  to  look  at  him,  he  springs  up  and  seizes  it. 

The  fable  of  the  fox  and  stork  is  changed  to  the 
fox  and  raven  ;  the  former  invites  the  latter  to  dinner, 
and  gives  him  soup  in  a  shallow  wooden  bowl ;  the 
raven  returns  the  compliment,  and  pours  out  some 
wheat  over  a  silleh  bush.  The  silleh  is  one  of  the 
most  thorny  of  the  desert  plants. 

Another  story  told  of  the  fox  is,  that  one  day  he 
met  five  slaves,  who  were  travelling  with  a  large 
supply  of  food  and  other  goods ;  he  joined  them,  and 
after  a  time  they  reached  a  well,  but  had  no  rope 
wherewith  to  draw  up  the  water.  The  fox  suggested 
that  they  should  throw  down  the  meal,  and  that  one 
of  their  number  should  go  down  and  knead  it,  which 
was  accordingly  done.  After  a  while  the  fox  said  to 
the  four  who  remained  above,  '  Your  comrade  must 
have  found  a  treasure ;  why  don't  you  go  down  and 
share  it  ?  '  Tliis  hint  was  enough,  and  they  all  hiu-ried 
down,  while  the  fox  decamped  v/ith  theu'  goods  and 
chattels. 

A  fox's  gall  is  said  to  be  a  specific  for  epilepsy, 
and  his  fat  for  the  gout. 

Gazelle    (Gazella   dorcas),    Ar.    male   'ard,    fern. 


264  RErORT   OX  THE 

cjhazaleh,  also  (chielly  in  poetry)  DItabyeh  (cf.  Tabitha, 
Acts  ix.  36).  This  gazelle  is  found  in  the  more  open 
parts  of  the  country  between  Sinai  and  the  Lebanon ; 
their  haunts  vary  much  with  the  different  seasons. 
Though  we  never  found  any  in  the  centre  of  the  Tih, 
the  Arabs  said  that,  after  a  good  rainy  season,  large 
numbers  come  there. 

The  Arabs  speak  of  three  kinds,  viz. : — 1.  El  Rim 
(Antilope  addax).  2.  El  Edam  {A.  leucoryx).  3.  El 
'Afar^  which  I  cannot  satisfactorily  identify. 

The  tongue  of  an  antelope  must  be  an  invaluable 
charm,  for  if  it  be  dried  and  powdered,  and  then  given 
to  a  woman  who  henpecks  her  husband,  it  will  insure 
her  futiu:e  good  behaviour ! 

Goat,  Ar.  maaz,  f.  ma'azeh  or  anz.  A  he-goat 
(cither  wild  or  tame)  is  also  called  tais.  In  mountain- 
ous districts,  large  herds  of  goats  are  kept  by  the  Arabs, 
chiefly  for  their  milk  and  hair,  which  is  used  for  making 
tents  and  sacking.  The  Arabs  more  usually  eat  a  kid 
than  a  lamb  on  the  occasion  of  a  feast,  and  always  a 
male.  Full-grown  animals  are  seldom  killed.  There 
arc  several  varieties  of  goats  from  the  upright-eared 
kind  to  the  Syrian  goat  with  pendent  ears,  12  to  14  inches 
long.  That  usually  seen  in  the  desert  has  ears  slightly 
drooping  and  rather  curling  up  at  the  top. 

Uorse:  the  generic  term  in  Arabic,  Kheil\  a  horse, 
hisdn  (in  Morocco  V<t'(/) ;  a  miWQ.fara  ;  a  colt,  mohrah. 


NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  THE   TIH  2G5 

'Atik  is  a  thorough- bred  Arab.  Tradition  says  that 
the  Devil  will  never  enter  a  tent  in  which  an  \it'ik  is 
kept. 

Hejjin :  a  crossed  horse.  (The  term  is  explained 
under  the  head  '  Camel.') 

Berdhun  is  a  pack-horse  with  foreign  sire  and  dam. 

Kadisli  is  a  badly  bred  berdhun. 

The  Bedawin  reckon  seven  principal  breeds  of 
horses,  which  are  as  follows  : — 

1.  Masahal^  which  ought  to  be  thin-crested,  with 
short  white  stockings,  red-eyed,  short-coated,  full  in  the 
barrel,  and  long-winded. 

2.  Iiaikali. 

3.  Sharthar. 

4.  Hareifish^  a  breed  well  known  in  Syria. 

5.  Tubal. 

6.  Fij. 

7.  Kumeit.  These  horses  are  usually  bay,  with 
black  points,  and  ought,  say  the  Arabs,  to  have  a  very 
fine  muzzle  ;  head  thin,  and  well  set  on ;  upright, 
small  ears  ;  conspicuous  wliite  star  on  the  forehead ; 
round  quailers,  and  to  be  well  ribbed  up ;  with  a  short 
or  rat  tail.  They  add,  a  well-bred  horse  is  known  by 
having  the  tail  thick  at  the  root,  and  carried  well  out. 

The  favourite  colours  are  chestnut,  grey,  dun,  black, 
and  dark  bay.  The  Prophet  is  related  to  have  pro- 
nounced the   following  dicta  : — '  The  best  horses  are 


266  REPORT  ON  THE 

black  with  white  foreheads,  and  a  white  upper  lip ; 
next  to  these  a  black  horse  with  a  star,  and  three  white 
stockings  ;  next  a  bay  with  these  marks.'  '  Prosperity 
is  with  sorrel  horses.'  The  same  authority  judged 
shikdl,  i.e.,  having  the  right-fore  and  left-hind  feet 
white,  to  be  the  sign  of  a  bad  horse. 

The  first  man  who  tamed  and  rode  a  horse  is  said 
to  have  been  Ishmael.  The  first  horse  appeared  when 
Adam  sneezed  on  first  awaking  into  life  (cf.  the  story 
of  the  cat). 

Hyaena  {H.  striata),  Ar.  Dhaba\  also  (in  Sinai) 
Arkudha.  This  animal  is  found  throughout  the  desert 
and  Palestine.  It  is  a  cowardly  beast,  feeding  chiefly 
on  carrion,  and  is  consequently  little  feared  by  the 
natives ;  as  I  have  before  mentioned,  the  Ghawarineh 
eat  it.  It  is  said  to  change  its  sex  yearly ;  the  same 
fable  is  told  of  hares. 

Jackal,  Ar.  Ibn  'Aici.,  or  in  Syria  Wadwi,  in 
Morocco  Deeb  and  Taaleb  Yusvf.  These  animals  are 
not  found  in  the  desert,  but  are  common  in  the  culti- 
vated i)arts  of  Egypt  and  Palestine,  where  their  weird 
cry  is  very  frequently  heard,  beginning  just  after  sunset. 
They  are  timid  beasts,  and  do  little  damage,  except  in 
the  vineyards,  where  they  commit  great  ravages,  being 
exceedingly  fond  of  grapes. 

Ibex  [Capra  bedan),  Ar.  Bedan  (from  hedn,  a  body: 
probably  so  called  as  being  the  largest  game  in  Sinai), 


NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  THE  TIH.  267 

the  correct  Arabic  is  waal ;  this  is  the  name  given  to 
them  north  of  Damascus.  Some  travellers  have  called 
them  Taytal,  but  the  word  is  not  Arabic,  and  is  only- 
used  by  the  Sinaitic  Bedawiu  when  speaking  to 
Europeans,  '  poor  simpletons,'  as  they  politely  put  it, 
'  who  don't  understand  Arabic'  The  derivation  of 
this  word  I  am  quite  unable  to  determine.  Among 
themselves  the  Bedawin  speak  of  the  buck  as  Bedan, 
and  the  doe  as  Anz  (she-goat),  and  the  kids  as  Dhalit. 
A  male  in  his  first  year  is  called  Fenaigili ;  after 
this  he  is  distinguished  by  the  length  of  his  horns  ;  tliiis 
in  the  second  year  he  is  called  Abu  Shibrain^  the 
father  of  two  spans  ;  in  his  third,  Thelathi ;  in  his 
fourth,  Rubai ;  in  his  fifth,  Khammasi ;  and  they  add 
that  the  horns  never  exceed  five  spans  in  length, 
which  I  believe  to  be  true,  for  on  measuring  the  largest 
l)air  that  I  have  ever  seen,  I  found  them  to  be  just  five 
spans  (about  41  inches)  long.  The  term  garimi  (red)  is 
applied  in  a  general  way,  much  as  we  speak  of  red 
deer.  These  animals  are  found  in  Sinai  and  on  both 
sides  of  the  Dead  Sea.  I  have  reason  to  believe  that 
those  near  Palmyra  are  a  different  variety. 

Jerboa,  Ar.  Yerbuah,  also  Dirs  or  Dars,  and  some- 
times Za  rumaih  (the  lord  of  the  little  lance).  There 
are  several  kinds  of  jerboas  and  desert  rats;  some  of 
them  are  only  found  amongst  the  rock,  others  only 
burrow  in  the  sand  and  gravel.     Opinion  is  divided 


268  RErOliT  OX  THE 

amongst  the  Arabs  as  to  wliether  the  jerboa  is  lawful 
for  food  or  lu^t ;  some  eat  it,  but  others  reject  it  as 
being  '  a  creeping  thing.'  The  Arabs  say  that  they 
never  drink,  and  believe  that  they  live  in  communities, 
and  appoint  a  sheikh,  whom,  however,  they  unhesi 
tatingly  kill  should  his  rule  not  suit  them.  There  is 
an  Arabic  proverb  about  a  deceitful  man  :  '  He  acts 
like  a  jerboa.'  This  is  said  with  reference  to  the 
ground  outside  a  jerboa's  hole,  which,  though  seemingly 
solid,  is  really  imdermined,  and  gives  way  when 
trodden  upon. 

Leopard  {Felis  leopardus),  Ar.  Nimr,  occasionally 
called  in  Sinai  Gibldn^  (corruption  of  the  Turkish 
Kaplan),  the  cubs  are  called  Weshek.  In  tlie  more 
secluded  and  inaccessible  mountains  of  Sinai  these 
animals  are  far  from  rare,  and  in  a  former  visit  to  that 
country  I  was  told  that  eleven  camels  had  been  killed 
by  them  during  the  preceding  year  in  the  district  lying 
between  Senned  and  W.  Nasb.  Like  the  hyrax  the 
leopard  is  said  to  have  been  formerly  a  man  changed 
into  liis  present  shape  for  performing  his  ablutions 
before  prayer  in  milk,  thus  despising  and  diverting 
from  their  proper  uses  the  good  gifts  of  God. 

Leftpards  are  tolerably  abundant  on  the  shores  of 
tlie  Dead  Sea ;  tlicir  tracks  were  here  mistaken  by  M.  de 

'  (Jiblan  i-  tli..  imiu..  of  the  chief  of  tLe  Nimr  (leopard)  family  of  the 
Ad  wan  Aralx*  in  Moub. 


NATURAL   HISTORY   OF   THE   TIH.  209 

Saulcy  for  those  of  the  lion,  which  animal  is,  however, 
quite  extinct  in  Palestine  and  the  Tih. 

The  Bedawin  assert  that  young  leopards  are  born 
with  a  snake  round  their  necks,  and  that  when  a 
leopard  is  ill  he  cures  himself  by  eating  mice.  Their 
fat  is  used  medicinally,  and  their  hair  is  burnt  as  a 
charm  to  drive  away  scorpions  and  centipedes. 

Lizard.  The  larger  lizards,  especially  the  Uro- 
mastiv  spinipes,  are  called  in  Arabic  Dhabb,  and  the 
smaller  Hardhun.  The  Bedawin  say  tliat  the  former 
lays  seventy  eggs  and  even  more,  resembhng  pigeons' 
eggs,  and  that  the  young  are  at  first  quite  blind.  They 
are  believed  to  be  very  long  hved — indeed  I  have 
heard  700  years  assigned  as  the  term  of  their  existence. 
By  some  tribes  they  are  eaten,  but  are  generally 
thought  unclean.  The  Syrians  curse  tliem  freely,  for 
they  say  that  they  mock  the  devotions  of  the  true 
believers.  Certainly  the  way  in  which  they  jerk  their 
bodies  up  and  down  is  not  unlike  a  caricature  of  the 
Muslim  prostrations. 

The  dried  bodies  of  some  of  the  Skinks  or  Sand- 
lizards  (Ar.  Sakanh'ir)  are  much  sought  after  as  a 
restorative  throughout  the  East.  The  particular  kind 
in  vogue  is  found  in  Nejed,  and  large  quantities  are 
brought  by  the  Hajj  caravans. 

Owl,  Ar.  Boomeh.  This  bird  is  in  some  places 
regarded  with  veneration  on   account  of  a  tradition 


270  REPORT   OX   Till: 

wliich  says  that  the  souls  of  men  appear  on  their  tombs 
ill  tlie  form  of  owls.  I  am  told  that  they  are  some- 
times used  by  fowlers  as  decoys. 

Pigeon,  Ar.  Ilamam  ;  wild  pigeon,  Yemam.  In 
Egypt  there  are  enormous  numbers  of  pigeons  who 
live  in  towers  specially  built  for  them.  They  arc 
chiefly  kept  for  their  dung,  which  is  very  valuable  as 
manure,  and  largely  exported. 

Most  mosques  are  tenanted  by  pigeons,  and  not 
unfrequently  a  sum  of  money  is  left  by  some  pious 
Moslem  to  buy  corn  for  them.  At  Jerusalem  they  are 
especially  numerous,  whence  the  Arabic  proverb, 
'  Safer  than  the  pigeons  of  the  Haram.'  The 
mourning  of  doves  is  as  frequently  alluded  to  in  Eastern 
as  it  is  in  Western  poetry. 

Quail,  usually  called  in  Arabia  Summana  or  Selwa. 
I  only  met  with  one  specimen  in  the  Tih,  and  that  was 
cjdled  by  the  natives  Firreh.  There  is  a  tradition  that 
tlie  first  instance  of  meat  becoming  con-upt  and 
stinking  was  when  the  children  of  Israel  stored  up  tlie 
flesh  of  the  miraculous  quails  contrary  to  the  commands 
of  the  Almighty. 

Raven.  There  are  three  species  of  this  bird  scattered 
over  tlie  desert,  viz.,  Corvus  corner ,  C.  umhrinuf<,  and 
C.  affinis ;  all  of  these  are  called  by  the  Arabs  Ghorab. 
Tlioy  are  generally  found  near  a  herd  of  camels,  and 
may    oOm   be   seen    perched    on    the   backs  of  these 


NATURAL   niSTORY  OF  THE   Till.  271 

animals  searching  for  ticks.  Their  chief  food  consists 
of  reptiles  and  insects,  but  any  dead  or  dying  animal 
will  attract  them.  On  one  occasion  I  saw  two  ravens 
attack  a  horse  which  had  fallen  from  exliaustion. 

An  Arabian  proverb  says,  '  Take  a  raven  for  your 
guide,  and  he  will  lead  you  to  a  dead  dog.' 

An  Arab  tradition,  evidently  taken — as  many  others 
are — from  the  Old  Testament,  ascribes  the  first  idea 
of  burial  to  the  raven.  '  While  Adam  was  absent  on 
a  pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  Cain  and  Abel  each  erected  an 
altar  for  sacrifices.  Cain,  a  husbandman,  offered  the 
refuse  of  his  garden,  but  Abel  chose  the  finest  young 
ram  of  his  fiock  and  laid  it  upon  the  altar.  His  sacri- 
fice was  accepted,  and  the  ram  taken  up  to  heaven, 
there  to  remain  till  it  was  required  as  a  substitute  for 
Ishmael  when  his  fatlier  Abraham  should  offer  him 
up  on  Mount  Moriah.  Cain,  seeing  his  offering  refused, 
coficeived  so  sudden  a  jealousy  against  his  brother  that 
he  slew  him,  but  being  perplexed  after  the  deed,  and 
knowing  not  how  to  dispose  of  the  body,  he  carried 
it  about  with  him  for  many  years.  At  last  he  saw 
two  ravens  engaged  in  deadly  conflict,  and  one  having 
killed  the  other  scraped  a  hole  in  the  ground  and 
buried  it,  a  hint  which  Cain  took,  and  thus  instituted 
the  first  burial  rites  as  he  had  caused  the  first  death. 
Adam  returning  mourned  for  his  son  and  cursed  tlie 
ground  whicli  liad  drunk  up  liis  blood,  wherefore,  say 


272  liErORT   (jy  THE 

the  Muslims,  tlie  earth  will  never  more  absorb  the 
blood  of  one  who  is  slain,  but  it  remains  above  ground, 
a  lasting  testimony  to  the  murderer's  guilt.' 

Sand-grouse  {Pterocles  seiarius). — This  species  is 
most  common  in  the  desert,  but  three  other  kinds  are 
also  found,  viz.  P.  exicftiis  and  P.  senegalensis  (found 
by  Tristram  near  the  Dead  Sea)  and  P.  arenarius.  All 
these  are  called  Rata,  or,  in  Bedawi  dialect,  Gata  (in 
Morocco  Koudn).  The  first  and  last  mentioned  species 
are  called  by  some  Bedawin  Koudriyeh  and  Sunifeh 
respectively. 

These  birds  require  to  drink  morning  and  evening, 
and  thus  often  prove  of  great  service  to  the  traveller 
by  indicating  the  proximity  of  water.  While  staying 
at  Damascus  I  was  assured  that  these  birds  exist  in 
such  numbers  in  the  territory  of  the  'Auazeh  Bedawin 
tliat  during  the  nesting  season  two  men  will  go  out 
witli  a  camel's-hair  bag  between  them  and  fill  it  with 
eggs  in  a  very  short  space  of  time.  The  women 
then  squeeze  out  the  eggs  and  cook  them,  leaving  the 
shells  inside  the  bag.  The  Kata  is  said  always  to  lay 
three  eggs,  neither  more  nor  less.  Its  bones  when 
proiK-rly  i)repared  are  said  to  be  a  cure  for  baldness, 
and  the  liead  may  be  used  as  a  charm  to  extort 
secrets  from  a  sleeping  person.  From  its  being  so 
sure  an  indicator  of  the  presence  of  water,  the  Arabs 
liavc    till-    i.rovcrb   '  More    truthful    than    the    Gata.' 


NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  THE   TIH  273 

Sheep.  The  proper  Arabic  name  is  Dhdn ;  Gha- 
nem  is  the  general  term  for  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats. 

In  the  Tih  there  are  few  sheep,  but  in  Moab  and 
Palestine  they  are  numerous ;  these  are  generally  the 
fat-tailed  variety  [Ovis  laticaudata).  A  fine-woolled 
breed  is  found  in  some  districts.  I  have  always  noticed 
that  in  the  East  sheep's  milk  is  much  better  than  that 
of  either  cows  or  goats. 

Snake,  Ar.  Haiyek^  Taaban  'Offi,  (cf.  o'c^<s),  Dudek 
{lit.  worm)^  Rakshali  (speckled  one).  Owing  to  its 
being  winter  when  I  passed  through  the  Tih,  there 
were  very  few  snakes  to  be  found.  The  attitude  taken 
by  a  horned  snake  {Cerastes  Hasselquistii)  which  I 
captured  was  remarkable.  Immediately  it  saw  me  it 
began  to  hiss,  and,  tying  itself  as  it  were  into  a  knot, 
created  a  curious  grating  sound  by  the  friction  of  its 
scales.  This  snake  is  considered  the  most  deadly  of 
all  by  the  Arabs,  who  hold  it  in  great  dread.  They 
also  affirm  that  if  a  snake  has  swallowed  a  bone  which 
it  cannot  digest  it  will  coil  itself  tightly  round  a  tree 
or  stone  till  the  bone  inside  it  is  completely  broken  up. 

Tortoise  {Testudo  grceca),  Ar.  Salahfdt  (in  Morocco 
afkah).  The  water- tortoise  {Emys  caspica)  is  called 
Lejah.  The  former  is  occasionally  found  in  the  Till, 
though  common  in  Palestine.  The  latter  abounds  iu 
the  pools  and  streams  of  that  country.  Another  species 
of  land-tortoise  {Testudo  marginata)  is  mentioned  by 

T 


274  REPORT  0:N   THE 

Tristram  as  being  found  on  Mount  Carmel.  The 
water-tortoise  is  known  to  be  carnivorous,  and  the 
Arabs  declare  tliat  the  land  species  also  eat  snakes, 
but  this  I  believe  to  be  quite  false.  Tortoises  have  a 
very  strong  odour,  and  I  have  frequently  seen  pointers 
in  Morocco  stand  to  them  as  they  would  to  game. 

Vulture,  Egyptian  {Neophron  percnopterus)^  Ar. 
Ixalliamah  (Ileb.  racham)  or  Onak  (in  Morocco  Sew). 
This  is  the  only  vulture  at  all  frequently  seen  in  the 
desert.  The  Griffon  {Gyps  fulvus)  and  Lammergeier 
{Gypaetus  barbatus)  seldom  wander  beyond  the  limits 
of  cultivation.  The  Egyptian  vulture  is  commonly 
found  near  Arab  encampments,  where  it  shares  the 
office  of  scavenger  witli  the  dogs.  Many  tribes,  liow- 
ever,  both  in  North  Africa  and  the  East,  consider  its 
flesh  a  delicacy. 

Wolf  {Canis  lupus) ^  Ar.  Deeb.  These  animals  are 
found  in  the  mountains  of  Sinai  and  Palestine,  but 
rarely  in  the  Tih.  They  do  not  pack  like  European 
wolves,  ])ut  hunt  by  twos  and  threes. 

The  lit'dawin  say  that  *  they  sleep  with  one  eye 
open,'  and  have  a  similar  proverb  to  our  own,  'A 
wolf  in  the  stomach.'  Hunger  is  sometimes  called 
Da'  ed  deeb,  wolfs  malady.  Various  parts  of  the 
animal  are  used  for  charms,  e.g.  a  wolf's  head  in  a 
pigeon  cote,  or  a  tail  in  a  cattle  stall,  will  keep  off 
otlier  wild  bi-asts. 


I 


NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  THE   TIH  275 

In  additiou  to  stories  about  real  animals,  the  Be- 
dawin  have  many  fables  of  imaginary  creatures,  such 
as  the  Ginn,  the  Efreet,  and  the  Ghoul.  These  hardly 
come  within  my  province,  and  are  well  described  by 
Lane  ('Arabian  Nights,'  vol.  i.).  I  may  however 
mention  the  Nis-nds,  which  is  said  to  resemble  a  man 
bisected  longitudinally,  and  to  possess  but  one  arm, 
one  leg,  and  half  a  head.  The  story  goes  that  it  is 
found  in  Yemen,  and  that  the  people  there  hunt  and 
eat  it,  notwithstanding  that  it  can  speak  Arabic  !  The 
Hud-hud  (so  called  from  its  cry)  is  a  mysterious 
creature,  not  uncommon  in  Sinai.  The  Bedawin 
declare  that  it  is  never  seen.  Though  I  often  heard 
its  plaintive  cry  close  to  my  tent,  and  rushed  out  gun 
in  hand,  yet  I  never  could  obtain  so  much  as  a  glimpse 
of  it.  At  one  moment  the  sound  came  from  just  over 
my  head  ;  the  next  instant  it  was  far  away  up  the  hill 
side,  and  would  either  pass  into  the  distance,  or  as 
suddenly  return  to  me.  From  this  I  am  convinced 
that  the  cry  is  made  by  some  bird,  probably  of  the 
owl  tribe.  The  Arabs,  of  course,  will  accept  no  sucli 
materialistic  solution  of  the  mystery. 

The  botany  of  the  Tih,  especially  in  a  season  of 
drought  such  as  we  experienced,  is  very  limited.  The 
climate  is  so  dry  that  mosses  and  even  lichens  are  not 
found,    except   near  Nakhl,   where   I  gathered   some 

T  2 


276  REPORT  ON  THE 

much  resembling  the  true  reindeer  moss.     This  only 
grows  on  the  northern  side  of  the  hillocks. 

The  passage  in  Job  xxx.  4,  '  Who  cut  up  mallows 
by  the  bushes,'  seems  wrongly  referred  to  the  Sea 
Purslane  {Atnplea;  Ilalimus).  In  North  Africa  and 
the  country  east  of  Bir-Erba  there  is  a  small  mallow 
which  is  eaten.  Tliis  invariably  grows  either  where 
an  Arab  encampment  has  stood  or  on  the  site  of  an 
ancient  town.  It  has  a  small  pinkish  flower,  and 
seldom  exceeds  seven  or  eight  inches  in  height. 

In  the  caves  near  Ain  Muweileh  a  considerable 
quantity  of  salt  crystallises  on  the  siurface  of  the  lime- 
stone. Though  disagreeable  to  the  taste,  it  is  eaten  by 
the  Arab. 

At  Petra  the  natives  chip  the  interior  of  the  caves. 
The  fragments  of  sandstone  are  crushed  and  boiled, 
and  a  saltpetre  sufficiently  pure  for  the  purpose  of 
making  gunpowder  is  thus  obtained.  The  sulphur  is 
found  on  the  Lisan  and  coasts  of  the  Dead  Sea. 

The  above  report  necessarily  contains  but  a  sketch 
of  our  work.  It  will,  however,  I  trust,  give  some  idea 
of  the  fouiitry  we  had  to  examine,  and  of  the  diffi- 
culties which  we  encountered.  In  conclusion,  I  must 
here  tender  my  best  thanks  to  the  University  of  Cam- 
bridge for  having  aided  me  in  the  investigation  of  this 
hitherto  so  little  known  l)ut  important  district.  It  is 
the   intciitiuii  *>{■  Mr.  Palmer  and  myself   to   publish 


NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  THE   TIH  277 

together   as   soon   as   possible  a  full   and   systematic 
account  of  oiu*  explorations. 

Note  hy  Mr.  C.  R.  Crotch  on  the  Coleoptera  brought 
from  the  Tih. 

'  In  the  small  collection  now  before  me  are  con- 
tained ninety  species  of  Coleoptera,  representing  more 
or  less  all  the  larger  families  of  the  order,  except  the 
water-beetles,  an  omission  easily  to  be  accounted  for. 
The  group  most  largely  represented  is,  as  throughout 
Syria,  the  Heteromena.  These  curious  apterous, 
sluggish  forms  seem  to  thrive  under  the  most  arid 
conditions.  The  whole  cast  of  the  fauna  is  essentially 
Mediterranean  ;  that  one  is  on  its  southern  side  is 
shown  by  genera  like  Adesmia,  Graphipterus,  Pachy- 
deura,  &c.  The  relations  of  this  collection  with  an 
Egyptian  one  are  very  marked,  many  specimens  being 
identical.  None  of  tlicm,  however,  extend  to  the 
Algerian  deserts,  though  congeneric  species  occur  there 
in  their  place.  Nearly  all  are  confmed  to  the  S. 
corner  of  Palestine  and  E.  of  Egjrpt,  except  the 
dung-beetles  (Histerida,  Aphodiadte,  and  Coprida), 
and  these  are  more  or  less  identical  with  those  of  S. 
Europe.  The  paucity  of  vegetation  is  very  strongly 
indicated  by  the  fixct  that  the  two  great  groups  of 
Rhynchophera  and  Phytophaga  number  only  seven 
species  between  them.' 


EXTBACTS  FEOM  JOURNAL  IN  EGYPT. 

Jan.  11.  I  heard  tliat  there  were  some  grottoes  iu 
the  hills  beyond  Souadi,  so  early  in  the  morning  I 
crossed  the  river  to  explore  them.  I  found  remains  of 
several,  but  as  they  were  all  in  the  Nummulite  lime-^ 
stone,  the  barbarous  natives  had  destroyed  them  all  in 
order  to  burn  the  stone  for  lime,  finding  it  easier  to 
quarry  them  than  to  break  into  the  face  of  the  cliff. 
One  alone  was  not  destroyed,  though  three  sitting 
figures  which  it  once  contained  were  broken  away 
and  the  hieroglyphs  were  much  defaced.  I  found  near 
Zoweh  the  remains  of  some  unfinished  '  tazzas '  of 
Egyptian  alabaster,  which  had  evidently  broken  when 
being  roughly  shaped  and  had  consequently  been  re- 
jected. Zoweh  is  a  city  of  the  dead ;  all  the  dead  from 
Minieh  and  thereabouts  are  ferried  across  the  river 
and  buried  there  (hence  the  fable  of  Styx  and  the  souls 
being  ferried  across).  The  city  is  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  long,  and  about  half  a  mile  in  width  ;  each  tomb- 
house  is  a  domed  building — hke  the  saint-houses  in 


280  EXriiACTS  FROM  JOUIiXAL. 

Morocco — and  iinderueath  are  vaults  in  which  the 
bodies  are  deposited. 

J 2.  To-day  the  women  from  Minieh  cross  over  in 
great  numoers  to  Zoweh  to  Hve  for  two  days  in  the 
tombs,  as  Ramadan  finishes  then,  and  it  is  the  feast  of 
Beiram. 

13.  Passed  up  the  river  with  a  fair  wind  without 
stopping  at  the  grottoes  of  Beni  Hassan,  as  we  intend 
going  up  to  Thebes  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  coming 
down  slowly  and  visiting  all  places  of  interest  after- 
wards. 

The  hills  on  the  eastern  side  come  very  near  to  the 
river  from  some  fifteen  miles  below  Minieh,  and  run 
along  it  till  the  Mount  of  Abou'l  Feda  (near  Manfaloot), 
when  it  runs  S.E.  at  some  distance  off. 

On  the  15th  we  passed  Abou'l  Feda;  it  is  usually 
difiicult,  and  so  we  found  it.  The  wind  comes  down 
from  the  cliffs,  which  I  should  think  were  400  or  500 
feet  high,  in  sudden  gusts.  At  one  time  we  were 
blown  on  to  a  bank,  and  took  some  time  in  getting  off. 
We  had  been  drawing,  and  all  the  books,  glasses,  &c., 
were  on  the  table,  when  a  sudden  gust  came,  the  boat 
heeled  over,  and  there  was  a  grand  smash  and  a  most 
chunning  mess  of  drawings,  paints,  water,  &c.,  scud- 
ding about  the  floor.  However,  we  soon  passed  the 
liills  and  went  along  with  a  capital  breeze,  but  on  the 
IGth  the  wind  fell  when  we  were  a   short  distance 


EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL.  281 

from  Sioiit ;  so  I  went  on  shore  to  shoot  pigeons,  and 
in  about  one  and  a  half  hour  I  bagged  forty-five,  only 
missing  one  shot. 

These  pigeons  are  the  common  blue  rock,  and  are 
growTi  extensively  here ;  the  natives  cannot  shoot  them 
and  never  kill  them,  as  their  guano  is  extensively  ex- 
ported to  Europe,  and  sells  for  a  high  price.  They  are 
to  be  counted  not  by  hundreds  but  by  thousands  ;  some 
of  the  pigeon-houses  are  300  or  400  feet  long,  and  8 
or  10  feet  broad,  built  up  of  earthen  jars,  with  long 
sticks  stuck  in  for  perches.  I  should  think  that  some 
villages  must  own  some  20,000  or  30,000  pigeons; 
these  one  can  slioot  anywhere  except  close  to  their 
cots,  as  that  makes  them  desert  and  go  to  another 
place.  Most  of  the  birds  I  shot  fell  in  the  river,  but 
the  small  Arab  boys  were  only  too  delighted  to  throw 
oflf  their  one  garment  and  act  as  retrievers. 

I  am  making  several  sketches,  and  am  trying  a  few 
figures  ;  there  is  a  great  sameness  in  the  sceneiy,  but 
it  is  made  very  lovely  by  the  clearness  of  the  air,  and 
more  especially  in  the  evening  when  the  tints  are 
gorgeous ;  the  desert  hills  turn  quite  lake-coloured, 
really  quite  as  bright  as  Mr.  Cautley  makes  them,  even 
to  my  telescopic  eyes. 

I  find  my  Moorish  very  little  use  here,  as  it  is  quite 
another  language,  even  the  commonest  words  of  every- 
day life  are  totally  different ;  however,  I  am  getting  to 


282  EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL. 

make  myself  a  little  understood,  and  find  the  natives 
very  fair  specimens.  I  remarked  that  a  large  number 
of  them  have  lost  their  forefinger ;  on  enquiry,  I 
found  that  some  years  ago,  when  conscription  was 
in  force,  this  was  their  way  of  evading  service,  or 
rather  trying  to,  for  when  this  was  found  out  the 
authorities  took  tlie  self-mutilated  men  and  made 
them  slioot  from  their  left  shoulder. 

17.  Arrived  at  Siout,  where  we  only  stopped  an 
hour  or  two.  It  is  a  good-sized  town,  with  good 
bazaai's,  and  famed  for  water-jars  and  pipes  made 
of  a  very  pretty  red  clay,  some  of  which  I  invested  in. 

18,  19,  20.  Variable  winds  with  some  rain. 

21.  Came  to  Girzeh,  another  large  town,  where 
we  did  not  stop. 

Between  Siout  and  Girzeh  the  hills  come  down 
in  quite  a  chff  to  the  water's  edge,  and  just  at  dinner 
time  it  began  to  blow  in  gusts  and  squalls,  just  as 
at  Abou'l  Feda ;  we  were  blown  on  to  the  usual 
sand-bank,  and  for  about  half  an  hour  we  had  a 
great  excitement,  the  men  shouting  and  howling  at 
one  another,  the  reis  abusing  them  all  round  in  choice 
Arabic,  some  trying  to  push  off  with  poles,  others 
up  lo  their  waists  in  water  ;  all  this  by  moonhght 
made  a  most  picturesque  scene. 

One  of  the  boatmen  made  a  sacrifice  of  a  kind 
quite  new  to  me  the  other  day  :  I  was  out  shooting  in 


EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL.  283 

the  small  boat,  when  he  asked  permission  to  stop  and 
see  his  mother.  After  taking  leave  of  her,  he  pulled 
out  a  paper  (written  in  Arabic)  which  I  take  to  have 
been  a  prayer ;  having  enclosed  some  frankincense  in 
this,  he  burnt  it.  Charms  and  amulets  are  very 
common  as  in  the  West,  but  this  I  never  saw  before. 

22.  The  eastern  cliffs  are  very  pretty  about  here  : 
I  should  judge  them  to  be  about  350  or  400  feet  high ; 
the  upper  half  is  precipitous  and  waterworn  with  curious 
pillars  and  pinnacles,  the  lower  part  being  generally  a 
steep  slope  of  debris.  The  colouring  is  lovely,  especially 
in  the  early  morning  when  the  wadys,  or  valleys,  are  in 
deep  violet  shade,  and  at  sunset  the  hills,  naturally 
reddish,  turn  into  the  most  intense  lake  and  purple 
for  tlie  few  minutes  before  the  sun  sinks.  About 
here  the  d6m,  or  Theban  palm,  begins  to  be  plentifid ; 
it  is  just  like  a  palmetto  grown  into  a  good-sized 
tree,  not  nearly  so  pretty  and  graceful  as  the  corn- 
palm.  The  '  Sout^'  or  Acacia  nilotica — one  of  the 
gum-arabic  producers — is  plentiful,  and  much  used  in 
making  charcoal. 

23,  24.  Came  up  with  a  fair  wind  and  passed 
Gheneh,  which  is  only  famous  for  its  porous  water- 
jars,  which  are  much  used  to  keep  the  water  cool, 
and  also  to  filter  it,  for  the  Nile  water  is  naturally 
rather  muddy,  but  when  filtered  it  becomes  as  clear 
as  possible,  and  is  excellent  water. 


284  EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL. 

25.  OfT  Karnak  in  the  morning,  and  walked  up 
to  tlie  ruins.  As  one  approaches  from  the  river 
nothing  is  seen  but  the  massive  gateways  which  face 
one,  being  a  wall  built  of  enormous  stones,  but  inside 
of  these  is  a  large  courtyard  about  100  yards  square, 
with  a  colonnade  round  it,  then  another  gateway 
(about  70  feet  high),  and  a  row  of  enormous  columns 
leading  to  the  great  hall,  which  is  supported  by 
numerous  less  gigantic  columns,  placed  very  near  to 
one  another,  and  covered  with  hieroglyphs.  Beyond 
this  are  the  two  obelisks  and  remains  of  two  other 
fallen  ones ;  near  these  are  rows  of  pillars  in  human 
forms  about  15  feet  high,  and  small  chambers  with 
remains  of  paintings  in  them.  Further  still  is  another 
temple  at  right  angles  to  the  other,  composed  of  four 
rows  of  massive  pillars  supporting  a  roof  made  of 
vast  blocks  of  stone.  Tliis  temple  is  about  80  yards 
long.  Beyond  are  ruins  of  smaller  chambers,  and  at 
a  distance  two  gateways.  On  the  outside  wall  of  the 
tcm])]e  are  sculptures  of  different  scenes  in  the  lives 
«»f  the  kings.  Some  are  wonderfully  well  executed, 
and  tlie  drawings  very  spirited. 

Luxor  (the  ancient  Thebes)  now  has  httle  of 
interest  except  a  gateway  and  a  double  row  of  enor- 
mou.s  columns,  which,  with  a  few  remains  of  walls 
built  about  with  the  Aral)  mud-hovels,  are  all  that 
remain. 


EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL.  285 

26.  Went  across  the  river  and  rode  about  a  mile 
to  the  temple  at  Koorna,  a  small  but  massive  and  well- 
preserved  building.  Then  about  three  miles  through 
the  hills  to  the  tombs  of  the  kings,  which  are  most 
curious  and  interesting.  They  are  cut  in  the  solid 
rock,  and  vary  in  length  from  200  to  400  feet.  One 
enters  by  a  passage  about  10  feet  high  and  12  wide, 
slightly  sloping  downwards.  At  the  side  are  gene- 
rally small  chambers  covered  with  paintings,  then  one 
or  more  large  rooms  supported  on  columns  ;  in  some 
the  massive  granite  sarcophagus  is  still  remaining. 
The  paintings  are  very  interesting,  as  they  throw  such 
a  light  on  the  habits  and  usages  of  the  old  Egyptians. 
I  remarked  a  plough  identical  with  that  now  in  use, 
most  elegant  chairs  with  coloured  cushions,  besides 
drawings  of  agricultural  scenes,  &c.  The  figures 
are  many  of  them  wonderfully  drawn,  with  a  free  bold 
outline ;  the  faces  are  capital — all,  of  course,  being 
profiles. 

I  went  by  moonlight  to  see  the  colossal  figures, 
which  are  about  60  feet  high.  The  efTect  was  most 
curious  ;  they  looked  like  huge  ghosts  sitting  in  the 
middle  of  the  plain.  Afterwards  I  sat  in  some  ruins 
to  shoot  wolves  or  jackals.  One  came  which  I  knocked 
over,  but  after  lying  for  about  five  minutes  he  went 
off  and  escaped  to  the  mountains. 


28G  EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL. 

Cairo,  Feb.  19, 1869. 

I  have  agiiin  changed,  or  rather  modified,  my  plans. 
I  am  now  intending  to  stop  here  some  three  weeks  or 
so,  and  tlicn  go  on  to  Sinai.  This  is  the  only  town 
tiiat  I  have  ever  been  to  where  I  have  cared  to  make 
any  stay,  but  there  is  so  much  to  see  and  so  much  to 
sketch  that  I  have  determined  to  stay.  I  have  got  a 
room  in  one  of  the  smaller  hotels,  which  seems  very 
clean,  has  an  excellent  light  for  painting,  as  one  half 
of  tlie  room  is  a  large  bay  Avindow,  and  is  very  rea- 
sonable, as  I  only  pay  5  fr.  per  diem  for  the  room, 
and  the  same  for  food  if  I  choose  to  have  that  here. 
I  will  now  begin  an  account  of  oiu'  journey  down  the 
river  from  Thebes. 

Jdii.  30.  Went  to  the  temple  of  Dendera  (anc. 
Tcntyris),  which  is  very  perfect,  and  is  a  most  striking 
buikling,  tliough  the  sculptiu-es  are  much  deficient  in 
the  grace  and  ease  which  characterise  those  of  earlier 
date,  the  temple  of  Dendera  probably  not  being  older 
than  our  era.  Tlie  temple  is  by  far  the  most  perfect 
of  any  1  saw,  and  I  believe  of  any  in  Egypt.  Tlie 
entrance  is  by  the  usual  gateway,  about  100  yards 
from  the  building,  which  has  lately  been  excavated  by 
Mariotti  IJey.  First  you  go  down  by  steps  into  the 
portico,  which  is  about  120  by  70  feet,  with  columns 
and  roof  ahno^f  perfect:  then  into  aiiotlier  liall,  and 


EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL.  287 

then  into  the  adituni  or  sanctuary,  which  stands  in 
the  centre  of  the  building,  with  small  chambers  all 
round,  from  some  of  which  are  subterranean  passages 
extending  a  great  distance,  seemingly  leading  to  no- 
where, but  having  the  walls  covered  with  hieroglyphs. 

Feb.  2.  Walked  over  to  Arabat-et-Matfoon  (anc. 
Abydus),  which  turned  out  to  be  a  considerable  way 
off,  so  that  I  had  a  trudge  of  some  25  miles.  The 
small  temple  there  has  some  curiously  preserved 
paintings  on  white  stone ;  the  colours  are  as  fresh  as 
if  they  had  only  been  done  three  instead  of  three 
thousand  years  or  more.  Tlie  larger  temple  is  almost 
as  perfect  as  that  at  Dendera,  and  I  much  prefer  it  to 
that,  as  the  pillars  are  better  proportioned  and  more 
graceful,  while  the  sculptures  are  done  at  an  earlier 
and  better  period  of  Egyptian  art.  Some  are  very 
amusing  and  curious ;  one  in  particular,  which  often 
recurred,  was  a  person  offering  a  plate  containing  a 
trussed  duck,  bread,  and  fruit. 

On  coming  down  to  Girzeh  from  Arabali  we  found 
that  the  dinbereh  had  not  been  able  to  get  there,  as 
it  had  been  blowing  a  gale  of  wind  all  day ;  so  we  had 
to  charter  a  country  boat  and  sail  about  10  miles  up 
the  river,  so  that  we  did  not  get  back  till  about  ten 
o'clock. 

Lower  down  the  river  I  visited  several  quarries 
and  grottoes,  which  were  curious  as  showing  the  way 


288  EXTRACTS  FliOM  JOURXAL. 

the  stone  used  to  be  cut,  but  wanting  in  sculptures 
or  paintings,  with  the  exception  of  those  at  Beni 
Hassan,  which  are  most  interesting.  On  the  8th  several 
steamers  passed,  but  as  no  flag  was  flying  we  did 
not  know  till  afterwards  that  the  Prince  of  Wales  was 
on  board. 

10.  Arrived  at  Cairo.     Here  I  met  with  a   man 

named ,  who  is  taking  a  holiday  and  going  to 

Jerusalem,  tlience  to  Bagdad,  and  perhaps  India.  I 
found  him  a  well-informed  and  agreeable  man,  who 
had  travelled  a  good  deal  in  Europe,  and  for  the  last 
week  we  have  spent  all  our  days  in  wandering  about 
the  bazaars.  It  is  the  Arabian  nights  over  again  ; 
one  can  understand  why  they  so  often  spoke  of  the 
one-eyed  man  when  one  seldom  sees  a  man  here 
witli  two  perfect  ones ;  in  fact,  the  rule  is  one  eye, 
and  the  exception  two.  Tell  Mr.  Cautley  that  I  have 
had  an  old  khan  near  the  Klian  Khalalech  photo- 
graphed, and  will  send  him  a  copy.  It  is  the  finest 
specimen  of  the  mushrebeeh  (lattice  windows)  that  I 
have  seen  in  Cairo,  and,  what  is  more,  will  be  i)ulled 
down  in  another  fortnight,  so  that  I  consider  myself 
extremely  fortunate  in  having  secured  a  photo  of  it. 


EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL.  289 

AugvM  16.  In  sight  of  Cyprus  early,  and  arrived  at 
Larnaca  at  8.30  a.m.,  and  went  on  shore  with  Mr. 
Lang,  an  English  merchant,  who  has  lately  made  some 
very  interesting  finds  of  Cypriote  antiquities  and  coins. 
He  gave  us  an  introduction  to  General  Cesnola,  the 
American  Consul,  who  has  been  carrying  on  large 
excavations.  His  collections  of  glass  and  pottery  are 
very  good,  and  the  gold  ornaments  are  interesting, 
consisting  of  rings,  bracelets,  earrings,  &c.,  and  several 
good  stones,  rubies,  onyxes,  &c.,  but  the  chief  interest 
of  the  collection  lies  in  the  statues,  of  which  he 
has  found,  broken  and  otherwise,  nearly  1,000  in  a 
single  temple.  These  are  of  many  epochs,  and  are 
exceedingly  interesting  as  showing  C}^iriote  art.  In 
many  of  the  older  ones,  the  first  glance  gives  the 
impression  that  they  have  a  strong  hkeness  to  the 
Assyrian,  but  on  closer  examination  this  proves  not 
to  be  so.  In  some  of  the  most  typical  the  mouth  is 
decidedly  Egj^^tian,  projecting  and  full-lipped,  but  the 
nose  is  large  and  rather  inclining  to  bottle :  the  eye- 
brows very  strongly  marked  :  eyes  large  and  horizontal. 
Cheek-bones  high,  with  deep  hollows  beneath.  In 
others  the  mouth  is  thin-lipped,  and  slightly  turned  up 
at  the  corners.  The  head-dresses  are  curious,  from  the 
old  round  turban  (like  that  worn  now  by  Copts  in 
Egypt)  to  the  Greco-Koman  garland.     In  one  instance 

U 


200  EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL. 

a  woman  wears  a  Phrygian  bonnet.  The  priestesses 
wear  the  fillet,  which  is  just  like  the  handkerchief  the 
Syrian  women  wear  at  the  present  day. 

Several  Egyptian  things  have  been  found  amongst 
the  Cypriote,  amongst  others  a  glass  scarabeeus.  Many 
of  the  glass  jars,  &c,,  are  beautifully  oxidized.  Mr. 
Lang  has  also  several  inscriptions  in  Cjrpriote  and 
Phcenician,  and  one  bilingual  on  a  block  of  marble 
which  originally  must  have  been  the  base  of  a  statue. 
Some  of  the  pottery  is  curious  and  very  ingenious, 
for  instance  a  jar  thus,  to  prevent  the  water 
from  spilling ;  and  a  filter,  the  solid  part  A 
being  made  of  porous  material.  There  are 
many  lamps  and  grotesque  figures,  and  a 
few  terra-cottas,  some  of  which  are  large. 
General  Cesnola  has  one  very  large  bronze  jar  and  a 
few  figures  in  tlie  same  metal  and  knives  and  spear- 
heads. 

At  3  P.M.  we  left. 

17.  At  sea. 

18.  Arrived  at  Rhodes  at  G  a.m.  Went  on  shore 
and  saw  the  houses  of  the  Knights.  Very  many  of 
the  coats  of  arms  are  still  to  be  seen  in  quite  good 
preservation,  l)ui]t  into  the  walls  of  the  houses,  as 
the  Turks  liave  a  superstitious  fear  of  destroying 
them.  Would  that  they  had  the  same  ideas  else- 
wliore  ! 


I 


EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL.  291 

Left  at  8  a.m.,  and  were  soon  among  the  desolate- 
looking  islands  of  tlie  Archipelago. 

19.  Arrived  at  Smyrna  at  1  p.m.  Went  through 
the  bazaar,  dined,  and  went  on  board  the  A.  LI.  s.s. 
'  Messina '  for  Syra. 

20.  Started  at  8  p.m. 

21.  Sjra  at  9  a.m.  Went  through  the  town, 
which  is  totally  uninteresting  inside,  but  very  pretty 
from  the  sea. 

Left  at  11  P.M. 

22.  Eeached  the  Pirasus  at  11  p.m.,  and  drove 
up  to  Athens.  Visited  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Olym- 
pius. 

23.  Up  early  in  the  morning,  and  walked  up 
Mount  Lycabetros,  about  one  mile  from  the  hotel. 
It  is  a  small  peak  rising  some  500  to  600  feet,  with  a 
small  chapel  on  the  top  :  it  commands  a  fine  view  of 
Athens.  To  the  south  the  city,  or  rather  little  town, 
for  it  is  no  larger  than  a  second-rate  French  country 
town,  lies  beneath  one.  The  palace,  an  ugly  square 
building  with  large  gardens,  lies  at  the  north-east  end. 
On  the  south-west  is  the  Acropolis,  a  fine  mass  of  ruins 
on  an  oval  island  of  rock.  To  the  north-east  of  this 
are  the  remaining  pillars  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter 
Olympius,  which  once  occupied  an  immense  area,  and 
close  beside  it  the  Arch  of  Hadrian.  Beyond  the  town 
we  see  the  three  ports  of  Phalairus,  Munychia,  and  the 

u  2 


292 


EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL. 


Piraeus,  the  islands  of  -^gina  and  Salamis,  and  the 
mountains  of  the  Peloponnesus.  Behind  us  (to  the 
north-east)  lay  Mount  Pentelicus,  the  marble  quarry, 
from  which  flows  the  Cephisus  which  suppHes  Athens 
with  w\itcr.  To  the  east  is  Mount  Hymetus,  an  ugly 
mass  of  limestone^  without  any  outHne.  The  Ilyssus 
takes  its  rise  in  this,  but  is  almost  dry  in  summer. 

We  then  returned  to  the  hotel,  and  took  a  carriage 
and  drove  to  the  Stadium,  wliich  is  in  this  shape. 


^  '-^msoivRr 


rassnpc  cut  through  the  rock, 
lending  out. 

By  this  unsuccessful  competitors 
passed  out. 


The  Government  has  recently  been  excavating  here, 
and  intends  to  revive  the  old  games  this  year. 

We  then  crossed  the  dry  bed  of  the  Ilyssus,  and 
pa.ssing  by  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Olympius  and  under " 
Hadrian's  Arch,  we  came  to  the  choragic  monument  of 
I.ysicrates,  which  stands  at  the  foot  of  the  Acropolis. 
There  was  formerly  a  graveyard  round  it,  and  Byron's 
house  too  stood  liere.  We  then  went  to  the  Theatre  of 
Dionysus,  which  is  very  interesting.     The  bas-rehefs  on 


EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL.  293 

the  proscenium  are  in  very  good  preservation,  but 
during  the  Turkish  occupation  a  barbarous  Pasha 
knocked  off  the  heads  of  the  figures  and  burnt  them  for 
Hme ! 

The  front  row  of  seats  are  marble  armchairs,  and 
have  cut  upon  them  the  name  or  office  of  the  priests  to 
whom  they  belong.  There  are  also  the  peculiar  seats 
of  the  Strategus  and  other  officials.  Many  inscriptions, 
altars,  statues,  &c.,  lie  about  which  were  found  in  the 
excavations.  Passing  by  the  Theatre  of  Herodius 
Atticus  and  turning  to  the  left,  we  came  to  the  hill  of 
the  Museion,  in  which  is  the  so-called  Prison  of 
Socrates  :  this  consists  of  caves  cut  in  the  face  of  a  low 
cliff  thus. 

•        ]  I  1  r  I  J  dj A.  Chamber  with  roof  thus  ^^-^ 

fl  fsjjl^  [-*•;  (.)ai)crtureatl  \  top. 

I         '^  ;  D  I  c.  Kouphly  cut.  '  ' 

/'■       J  e'----'  u.  Chamlicr  \vith  depression,  « e,  sliplitly 

/   B    J  I *  let  into  the  floor,  and  drain  leading 

X—^*^  to  the  door. 

A  few  hundred  yards  further  on  the  point  of  the  hill  is 
the  monument  of  Philopappus,  of  which  one  side — a 
segment  of  a  circle — with  two  mutilated  statues  and 
a  part  of  a  bas-reHef,  still  stands.  From  here  one 
gets  a  fine  view  of  the  Elysian  fields.  Acropolis  and 
Areopagus,  which  is  a  low,  flat-topped  mass  of  rock  to 
the  west  of  the  Acropolis,  with  a  flight  of  steps  leadmg 
up>^  it  at  the  south-east  corner  cut  in  the  rock. 

To   the   north   of  the   Museion  is  the   Tomb   of 


294  EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL. 

Cymon,  an  immense  sunken  loculus.  Near  it  are 
quarries,  and  further  to  the  west  the  Pnyx  or  Bema  of 
Demosthenes,  a  platform  with  steps  on  three  sides  and 
projecting  from  a  wall  of  rock  which  has  been  quarried 
smooth.  Below  this  a  platform  has  been  made  by 
banking  up  the  hillside  \vith  a  wall  of  enormous 
stones. 

We  then  went  to  the  Ceramicus,  the  cemetery  of  the 
old  Athenians.  Excavations  are  now  being  carried  on, 
and  many  very  fine  sculptured  tombs  have  been  found 
as  well  as  quantities  of  coarse  pottery.  The  usual 
sculpture  is  the  dying  person  seated  in  a  chair  and 
clasping  the  hand  of  the  nearest  relative  left  behind. 
A  small  building  in  the  centre  contains  all  the  pottery 
and  statues  that  have  been  found  during  the  ex- 
cavations. Next  to  the  Theseum,  which  is  nearly 
perfect,  only  a  few  places  have  required  restoration. 
There  is  a  very  interesting  museum  inside  containing 
inscriptions  and  figures.  Of  the  former  one  is  bilingual, 
viz.,  Phoenician  and  Greek.  Among  the  figures  may  be 
noticed  one  of  Aristeidon,  who  brought  the  news  of  the 
victory  of  Marathon,  and  then  fell  dead  from  exhaustion. 
On  liis  breast  is  a  medal  awarded  by  the  Athenians, 
a  Greco-Egyptian  priest,  and  some  female  figures. 
Tlie  number  of  the  inscriptions  at  Athens  is  one  of  the 
most  striking  things,  for  every  place  is  full  of  them,  many 
of  thorn  being  of  great  length.     We  then  drove  back  to 


EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL.  295 

the  hotel,  passing  en  route  the  Stoa  of  Hadrian's  School. 
Tn  the  afternoon  we  visited  the  Temple  of -^ilolus,  wliich 
is  rude  and  heavy,  and  the  Cathedral,  a  modern 
building  in  semi-Byzantine  style,  beside  which  is  a 
little  building  some  40  ft.  by  20,  of  very  early  date, 
with  rude  sculptures  outside,  which  is  the  old  Cathedral ; 
and  then  went  up  to  the  Acropolis,  passing  on  our  way 
the  Arch  of  the  Agora,  beside  which  stands  a  long, 
upright  stela,  on  which  are  cut  the  old  octroi  duties  on 
goods  from  various  places.  On  reaching  the  Acropohs 
we  passed  through  the  gateway  built  by  the  Turks, 
and  found  ourselves  just  above  the  Theatre  of  Herod ius 
Atticus,  which  is  built  against  the  hillside. 

Entering  the  Acropolis  itself  we  see  a  quantity  of 
statues  and  inscriptions,  and  then  ascend  the  steps  of 
the  Propyleum,  and,  turning  to  the  right,  visit  the  little 
Temple  of  Nike  Apteros,  in  which  are  some  beautiful 
statues  said  to  be  by  Phidias.  On  the  opposite  side  is 
the  Pinacotheca,  in  which  the  tablets  of  the  law  used  to 
stand. 

Crossing  the  open  space  in  which  the  great  statue 
of  Athene  used  to  stand  (and  in  modern  times  a 
church  on  the  south  side),  we  came  to  the  Parthenon, 
which  is  perfect  in  taste  and  proportions.  Inside  are 
traces  of  frescoes,  as  it  was  once  used  by  the  Christians 
as  a  church.  Then  to  the  Erectheura,  with  which,  and 
the   caryatides,   we   were   equally   pleased.      Here  is 


29Q  EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL. 

shown  a  hollow  containing  a  little  water,  said  to  be 
the  spring  caused  by  Poseidon  striking  the  rock  with 
his  trident  when  contending  with  Minerva  for  the 
patronage  of  the  city — the  mystical  form  of  the 
struggle  between  arts  and  commerce.  All  the  buildings 
are  full  of  statues  and  inscriptions  which  have  been 
excavated  at  various  times. 

24.  Early  in  the  morning  we  drove  off  to  Eleusina : 
passing  the  pretty  little  Byzantine  Convent  of  Daphne, 
dedicated  to  the  Virgin ;  it  was  burnt  by  the  Turks, 
but  has  still  some  of  the  mosaics  left  with  which  it  was 
decorated. 

Passing  down  the  valley  we  soon  came  in  sight  of 
the  Bay  of  Salamis,  which  is  very  pretty.  On  our  left 
was  Mount  J^gilius,  at  the  far  end  of  which  was  placed 
Xerxes'  throne,  and  to  our  right  a  temple  (ruins)  of 
Venus  with  numerous  niches  cut  in  the  rock  beside  it 
for  dedicatory  tablets,  &c. 

At  the  foot  of  the  valley  we  came  upon  the  sea- 
shore, and  drove  round  the  bay  to  Eleusis,  a  small 
village,  ill  the  middle  of  which  are  the  remains  of 
the  famous  Temple  of  Ceres,  but  the  stones  are  too 
scattered  and  broken  to  enable  one  readily  to  make  out 
tlic  plan.  There  are  two  temples  ;  of  the  larger  only 
the  steps  of  the  Propyleum  and  some  broken  columns 
remain  ;  the  smaller  is — partially  at  all  events — Koman 


EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL.  297 

work.  The  pavement  is  still  good.  Many  vaults  exist  of 
brickwork,  and  there  seems  to  have  been  a  cave  in  the 
adjacent  rock.  Both  temples  are  built  of  beautiful  white 
marble.  A  few  statues  and  inscriptions  have  been 
found,  which  are  now  in  the  house  of  the  custodian. 

Eeturning  to  Athens  we  packed  up  and  drove  down 
to  the  Pirceus,  and  went  on  board  the  M.  I.  s.s. 
'  Niemen,'  and  left  at  7  p.m. 

25.  Calm  and  fine.  Entered  the  Dardanelles  a 
little  before  sunset,  and  bought  some  pottery,  the 
specialite  of  the  place,  there. 

26.  Arrived  at  Constantinople  at  5.30  a.m.  The 
\iew,  though  foggy,  was  very  pretty,  with  the  irregular 
mass  of  houses  and  mosques  coming  down  to  the 
water's  edge.  Landing  we  went  up  to  Misseri's  Hotel, 
and  after  breakfast  rode  down  to  see  the  Sultan  go  to 
Mosque.  The  Albanians  and  Circassians,  of  the  body- 
guard, were  gorgeous  in  red  and  gold.  Pashas  covered 
with  decorations  kept  riding  about,  and  at  last  the 
Sultan's  son  appeared  on  horseback,  and  soon  after- 
wards the  Sultan  himself.  We  then  crossed  the  Golden 
Horn  by  the  Galata  bridge  of  boats,  and  visited  the 
bazaars,  which  are  only  semi- oriental.  The  Pera  and 
Galata  side  is  quite  French.  The  whole  situation  of 
the  town  is  most  magnificent,  and  the  harbourage 
might  shelter  the  navies  of  all  Europe. 


298  EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL. 

27.  Wrote,  and  in  the  afternoon  took  a  stroll 
through  Pera  and  Galata. 

28.  Spent  the  morning  in  Stamboul,  and  in  the 
afternoon  took  a  steamer  to  Kadikiis  (the  ancient 
Calchedonia),  and  then  walked  past  the  English  burial- 
ground  at,  and  through  the  town  of,  Scutari,  where 
we  again  took  a  steamer  and  returned  to  Galata  (15 
rain.). 

29.  Spent  the  day  in  the  bazaars,  buying  attar 
of  roses,  &c. 

30.  Buying  fiu-s,  &c.,  in  the  morning,  and  then 
visited  the  vaults  under  the  old  Hippodrome ;  next  the 
collection  of  arms  and  costumes  belonging  to  the 
Janissaries,  which  are  very  curious.  Life-size  figures 
are  dressed  in  the  actual  costumes  worn  by  them.  The 
turbans  are  absurdly  large.  Many  of  the  dresses  have 
much  of  the  barbaric  splendour  of  the  Tartars,  and  are 
in  some  cases  covered  with  silver  plates  ;  one  figure  has 
two  men  supporting  his  coat.  The  arms  are  wonderful, 
guns  weighing  some  30  to  50  lbs.  to  work  on  stand  and 
swivel,  cliaiii  armour,  axes,  &c.  We  then  went  to  the 
tomb  of  Sultan  Mahmi,  in  which  are  some  magnificently 
embroidered  Kiswehs  (palls). 

31.  Went  with  Mr.  Peirce  (an  American)  to  see  the 
Mosque  of  Sta.  Sophia,  which  is  a  magnificent  speci- 
men of  a  Byzantine  basihca.  At  first  the  guardians 
refused  to  allow  us  to  go  in,  as  we  had  no  firman  and 


EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL.  299 

would  not  give  any  backshish  before  entering ;  so  we 
gave  them  all  the  abuse  we  were  masters  of  in  Arabic, 
and  at  last  they  ate  humble  pie,  and  told  us  we  might 
go  in  without  paying  anything.  So  we  went  in  and 
walked  about  as  we  liked.  The  whole  of  the  roof  has 
once  been  covered  with  gold  mosaics,  but  where  that 
has  been  destroyed  it  has  been  restored  with  yellow 
plaster.  In  the  central  dome  stars  liave  been  sub- 
stituted for  the  heads  of  four  cherubims,  which  are  in 
the  corners. 

In  the  gallery  at  the  sides,  the  balustrade  is  formed 
of  marble  slabs,  from  which  all  the  crosses  have  been 
ejQTaced.  On  these  slabs  are  some  Greek  inscriptions. 
The  whole  effect  of  the  building  is  very  fine,  but  is 
rather  spoilt  by  the  steps  in  front  of  the  Mehral,  and  all 
the  mats  being  put  askew  to  show  the  true  direction  of 
the  Kibleh. 

Giving  one  franc  (the  usual  price  for  a  party  being 
21.  or  3/.  at  least)  and  a  parting  piece  of  abuse  to  the 
guardians,  we  went  to  the  Mosque  of  the  Sultan 
Ahmed,  which  is  fine  firom  its  great  size.  The  walls 
inside  are  partially  covered  with  tiles.  The  outside  is 
similar  to  that  of  the  Basilica  of  Sta.  Sophia,  and 
evidently  gave  rise  to  the  architecture,  which  has  been 
perfected  in  the  tombs  of  the  Kalif  at  Cairo,  though 
their  external  beauty  is  quite  as  much  attended  to  as 
internal  and  even  more  so,  while  at  Constantinople,  in 


:iOO  EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL. 

all  the  old  mosques,  external  appearance  seems  to  have 
been  unheeded. 

Close  behind  this  mosque  is  the  hippodrome,  in 
which  are  two  obehsks,  one  of  small  stones,  formerly 
covered  with  slabs,  and  the  other  a  monolith  of  granite 
with  Egyptian  hieroglyphs ;  it  stands  on  four  cubes  of 
copper,  and  tlie  pedestal  is  covered  with  Eoman  bas- 
reliefs,  beneath  which  is  a  Latin  inscription  stating  that 
it  was  put  up  by  the  Emperor  Theodosius.  Between 
the  two  is  a  broken  column  of  twisted  bronze. 

Passing  by  the  '  burnt  tower '  (close  to  the  tomb  of 
the  Sultan  Mahmiid),  which  is  built  of  six  huge  blocks, 
each  surmounted  by  a  wreath,  and  standing  on  a 
pedestal  of  masonry,  we  came  to  the  '  fire  tower,'  where 
a  watch  is  always  kept  to  look  out  for  fires. 

It  stands  in  the  court  of  the  Seraskier  Serai,  and 
must  be  about  250  feet  high.  It  commands  a  view 
over  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  and  the  Golden  Horn,  and 
the  entrance  to  the  Bosphorus,  while  the  whole  of  the 
town  Ues  like  a  model  at  one's  feet.  It  is  certainly  one 
of  the  finest  views  of  a  town  that  I  have  ever  seen ; 
those  of  Granada  and  Cairo  are  the  only  two  that  can 
at  all  come  near  it,  and  they  are  so  different  that  it  is 
impossible  to  iiuikc  a  comparison  between  them.  At 
4  I'.M.  we  just  caught  the  s.s.  'America,'  and  started  for 
Varna. 

Tlic  liosphorus  is  more  like  a  river  than  a  channel. 


EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL.  301 

All  the  banks  are  lined  with  houses  and  covered  with 
trees.  Especially  at  the  Castles  of  Europe  and  Asia  the 
view  is  lovely.  At  sunset  we  entered  the  Black  Sea, 
dined,  and  soon  afterwards  turned  in. 

September  1.  Arrived  at  Varna  at  7.30.  It  is  a 
small  town  backed  by  low  limestone  hills.  The  valley 
beside  it  is  filled  up  by  a  lake  of  some  size.  On  landing 
we  got  into  the  train  which  was  waiting  at  the  shore, 
and  went  up  to  the  station.  At  11.45  we  started, 
passing  through  a  fertile  rolling  country,  chiefly  covered 
with  brushwood  and  pasture,  on  whicli  were  large 
herds  of  cattle  and  horses,  some  buffiiloes,  and  flocks  of 
sheep  and  goats.  We  reached  Eustchuck  at  6.45,  and 
went  on  board  the  steamer,  which  was  lying  alongside 
the  station,  and  started  immediately.  The  steamer  was 
a  very  good  boat,  extremely  well  appointed,  and  with  a 
good  table. 

2.  Obhged  to  anchor  fi'om  midnight  to  8  a.m.  on 
account  of  the  fog.  The  river  banks  are  cliiefly  low  : 
clifis  in  places  :  low  islands  covered  with  willows  and 
picturesque  villages  of  mud  with  reed  or  tile  roofs. 
High-sterned  vessels  carrying  acres  of  canvas. 

3.  Rain  in  the  morning :  passed  Tour  Severin,  a 
picturesque  town  on  the  right  bank,  after  which  the 
banks  begin  to  rise  and  the  scenery  becomes  much 
prettier.  We  then  came  to  Oisova,  and  had  luggage 
examined  by  the  Austrian  customs.      In  the  afternoon 


302  EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL. 

we  passed  through  the  Iron  Gates,  where  the  cHffs  are 
precipitous  and  some  500  feet  high,  and  covered  with 
trees  and  bushes  wlierever  they  can  find  a  place. 
Alonsr  the  left  bank  were  traces  of  an  old  road 
(probably  Roman)  cut  in  the  face  of  the  rock ;  in  places 
sockets  were  cut  for  beams  to  make  the  roadway. 
After  emerging  from  this  pass  we  came  to  a  very 
picturesque  ruined  castle  on  the  left  bank,  and  traces 
of  another  opposite.  About  4.30  we  reached  Baziasch, 
where  we  took  the  railroad. 

4.  At  7.30  A.M.  we  reached  Pesth,  went  to  the 
Kiinigin  von  England,  and  then  called  on  Professor 
Vambery,  who  received  us  very  cordially.  We  then 
went  with  him  and  Colonel  Manyanski,  a  member  of 
the  Hungarian  Diet,  to  an  island  in  the  river,  which  is 
prettily  laid  out  as  a  park.  There  is  a  hot  spring  here. 
The  band  was  playing,  and  all  the  world  was  there. 

We  then  returned  to  Pesth,  and  Vambery  intro- 
duced us  to  the  club  of  the  Magnates,  where  there  is 
a  good  selection  of  English  and  foreign  papers. 

5.  9  A.M.  went  with  Vambery  to  see  the  Hungarian 
National  Academy,  which  is  a  very  fine  building  and  in 
very  good  taste.  The  '  Interior  '  Academicians,  18  in 
number,  of  whom  Vambery  is  one,  are  given  free 
passes  on  all  railroads  and  Government  conveyances 
tlirough  Austria  and  Hungary.  Crossing  the  Danube 
l)y  the  sus])unsion  bridrrc,  and  going  up  the  cliff  to  the 


EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL.  303 

Palace  by  a  railroad  on  the  bucket  principle,  we  sat  in 
the  royal  garden  overlooking  the  river  and  Pesth. 
Dined  at  noon  with  V.  and  his  wife :  then  went  by 
omnibus  tramway  (which  goes  all  about  the  town  and 
environs)  to  a  pretty  kind  of  Bois  de  Boulogne. 
At  9.25  started  for  Vienna. 

6.  At  6.30  A.M.  arrived  there  :    went  to  the  Hotel 

Wandh.      After    breakfast    visited    the    Belvidere 

National  Picture  Gallery:  then  to  Church  of  St. 
Augusiin,  poor  and  ugly :  monument  by  Canova,  very 
like  the  one  at  Venice.  Pope  Clement  the  Fourth, 
or  rather  his  skeleton,  is  here  in  a  glass  case,  and  tlie 
poor  old  man  wears  his  ribs  outside  a  brocaded  dress. 

Then  to  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Stephen,  a  beautiful 
specimen  of  ornamental  Gothic.  Strolled  about  the 
town  in  the  afternoon,  dined  at  Meybus'  restaurant, 
then  went  to  the  Volksgarten  to  hear  Strauss'  band 
and  see  the  world. 

7.  Left  at  noon.  Pretty  scenery  along  the  hne. 
Prague  at  10.30  p.m.  Went  to  the  Blauen  Stern  Hotel, 
which  we  found  comfortable. 

8.  Spent  the  day  in  walking  and  driving  about  the 
town,  which  is  very  quaint  and  picturesque.  The  old 
bridge  across  the  Moldau  is  very  picturesque,  covered 
with  idols.  The  view  from  the  royal  castle  is  charming. 
In  the  afternoon  to  Sophien  Insel  to  hear  the  baud 
play. 


;j04  EXTRACTS  FROM  JOURNAL. 

9.  Left  Prague  at  8.7  a.m.  Very  pretty  scenery 
along  the  banks  of  the  Elbe.  Eeached  Dresden  at  2.30 
P.M.,  Hotel  Belle  Vue.  In  the  evening  to  the  Cafe  Bel- 
vedere.   Good  music  patronised  by  the  elite  of  Dresden. 

10.  Picture  gallery  in  the  morning.  The  best 
collection  I  have  ever  seen,  especially  in  Dutch 
paintings.  Some  effects  of  light  and  shade  by 
Schalkens  are  marvellously  beautiful.  Eaphael's  San 
Sisto  Madonna  is  exquisite ;  no  copy  can  ever  reproduce 
its  beauties,  and  as  no  photographs  are  allowed  to  be 
taken  in  the  gallery,  the  original  must  be  seen  to 
appreciate  the  picture  truly. 

Strolled  about  the  town,  and  went  to  a  circus. 

11.  Paid  another  visit  to  the  gallery,  and  would 
have  hked  many  more  days  there.  At  5.45  p.m.  we 
started  for  Cologne,  but,  on  arriving  at  Leipsic,  found 
that  on  account  of  the  war  the  through  train  had  been 
taken  off;  so  we  had  to  stop  there  for  the  night. 
Walked  about  the  town,  then  went  to  a  Biergarten, 
where  there  was  good  music  and  all  the  fashion  of  the 
town. 

12.  Started  at  8  a.m.,  reached  Magdeburg  at  11, 
where  we  stopped  an  hour  and  visited  the  Cathedral, 
which  is  a  fine  building.  At  1  we  dined  at  Bruns- 
wick, and  reached  Cologne  at  9  p.m.  Went  to  Hotel 
Disch. 

13.  Visited  the  Cathedral,  relics  of  the"  Magi,  then 


EXTP.ACTS   FliOM  JOT'JiXAL.  305 

the  Church  of  St.  Ursula,  with  the  stacks  of  bones  and 
skulls.  Drove  round  the  town.  A  large  detachment 
of  French  prisoners  (officers)  came  in :  most  of  them 
went  to  ready-made  clothes  shops,  and  put  them  on 
instead  of  their  uniforms  :  during  this  operation  crowds 
collected  and  looked  in  at  the  shop  windows  with  great 
interest. 

J  4  and  15.  Stayed  at  Cologne,  as  I  was  not  very 
well. 

16.  To  Ostend  via  Bruges  and  Brussels.  Left  at 
10  P.M.,  and  reached  Dover  at  1  a.m.  on  17,  but, 
owing  to  our  luggage  not  being  registered,  missed  the 
first  train.  Went  to  sleep  in  the  waiting  room  and  missed 
the  second,  but  at  last  reached  London  at  10.  Went 
down  by  the  4.15,  and  got  home  at  7.30. 


APPENDICES. 


II 


APPENDIX  I. 

The  following  biographical  sketch  of  Charles  F.  Tyrwhitt 
Drake  appeared  in  '  Der  Globus,'  Band  xxviii.  No.  11,  1875. 
It  is  printed  here,  not  because  it  contains  any  fact  in  addition 
to  those  already  given,  but  because  it  shows  the  generous 
appreciation  of  his  worth  by  a  German  working  in  the  same 
field. 

It  is  just  a  twelvemonth  since  one  of  the  most  energetic 
of  English  travellers,  who  was  also  a  distinguished  zoologist — 
Charles  Frederick  Tyrwhitt  Drake — died  in  the  fulfilment 
of  his  self-appointed  task  ;  but  hitherto,  as  far  as  I  know, 
none  of  the  German  geographical  periodicals  have  published 
a  biographical  notice  of  him,  interesting  as  this  would  be, 
as  showing  how  an  active  and  persevering  nature  can  turn 
even  unfavourable  circumstances  to  account,  and  accomplish 
great  results  with  small  means. 

I  so  often  met  with  Drake,  and,  in  common  with  all  who 
had  intercourse  with  him,  learned  to  value  his  distinguished 
qualities  so  highly,  that  I  feel  called  upon  to  remedy  this 
omission  as  well  as  I  can. 

Charles  F.  T.  Drake,  born  Jan.  2,  1846,  at  Amersham, 
was  the  youngest  son  of  Colonel  W.  Tyrwhitt  Drake.  He 
was  a  traveller  and  explorer  from  his  youth.  Although  his 
frame  was  well  nigh  of  gigantic  proportions,  it  was  so  sus- 
ceptible to  the  inclemency  of  European  climate  that  he  felt, 
as  early  as  1866,  the  necessity  of  wintering  in  more  genial 
regions,  and  it  was  only  dming  the  milder  seasons  of  the 


310  AlTEyDlX  I. 

year  that  he  revisited  home.  Wisliing  to  make  the  best  use 
of  his  time,  he  occupied  liimself  during  his  wanderings  in 
making  zoological  and  geographical  researches,  during  which 
he  acquired  rich  treasures  of  experience.  The  scene  of  his 
first  investigations  was  the  NW.  of  Africa.  At  a  later 
period  he  joined  as  a  volunteer  the  Sinai  Ordnance  Survey, 
but  was  prevented  by  a  severe  attack  of  dysentery  from 
taking  an  active  part  in  their  labours.  Shortly  afterwards  he 
undertook,  witli  Professor  Palmer,  that  remarkable  exploration 
of  the  Desert  of  El  Till  (the  scene  of  the  wandering  of  the 
Israelites),  to  which  we  owe  the  excellent  map  of  this  important 
and  interesting  region,  published  by  the  Palestine  Exploration 
Fund.  These  daring  travellers  encountered  difficulties  of  no 
ordinary  kind  in  the  desert.  They  performed  the  whole 
joiuney  on  foot,  and  were  obliged  to  reduce  their  baggage  to 
the  smallest  possible  dimensions,  for  the  expense  of  riding 
and  baggage  animals  in  that  arid  waterless  region  would 
have  greatly  increased  the  cost  of  the  expedition,  even  had 
it  been  possible  to  have  accomplished  it  witliout  giving 
up  such  luxuries.  Drake  told  me  that  he  and  Professor 
Palmer,  at  the  end  of  a  hard  day's  work,  were  obliged  to 
wait  upon  themselves,  as  it  was  important  to  the  success  of 
their  difficult  task  that  they  should  not  be  encumbered  by 
Huperfluous  people.  The  cooking  was  shared  between  the 
two  gentlemen,  and  wlien  it  was  Mr.  Drake's  turn  to  prepare 
tlicir  simple  meal,  the  washing-up  and  such  menial  offices 
fell  to  Professor  Palmer's  share. 

In  such  wise  did  Mr.  Drake  learn  how  to  make  the 
simph'Ht  means  suffice  him  in  any  position  in  which  he 
might  fnid  liimself  placed.  He  also  acquired  a  great  facility 
in  the  use  of  the  Arabic  language,  and  much  skill  in  dealing 
with  tlio  half-wild  natives— accomplishments  which  after- 
wards stood  liim  in  good  stead  during  his  active  co-operation 
with  the  Palestine  Exploration  Expedition. 


APPEXniX  I.  311 

At  tlie  time  when  Drake  turned  his  steps  towards  Pales- 
tine Major  Wilson  had  completed  his  survey  of  Jerusalem  on 
the  scale  of  1*5,000,  and  had  taken  the  levels  from  Jafifa  to 
the  Dead  Sea ;  Captain  Anderson,  his  colleague,  had  finished 
his  preliminary  work  of  N.  Palestine,  and  Captain  Stewart 
had  taken  the  direction  of  the  projected  survey  of  the  whole 
of  the  Holy  Land,  which  was  already  begun.  Drake's  first 
tasks  in  Palestine  were  the  exploration  of  the  so-called  Hamah 
(in  the  winter  of  1870)  in  search  of  inscriptions,  and  a  journey 
with  the  distinguished  African  traveller,  Captain  K.  Burton, 
to  the  volcanic  district  east  of  Damascus,  and  also  to  the 
'  Alah,'  or  Highlands  of  Syria.  After  this  he  joined  the  Pales- 
line  siu'veying  party  as  a  volimteer,  and  shortly  afterwards 
Captain  Stewart,  the  leader  of  the  expedition,  fell  so  seriously 
ill  that  he  was  obliged  to  start  at  once  for  England,  for  fear  of 
endangering  his  health  irretrievably  by  a  longer  stay  in  that 
climate.  Drake  undertook  the  command  of  the  expedition 
in  his  stead,  accepting  all  the  responsibility  of  so  difficult  a 
post,  in  which  he,  a  civilian,  was  placed  in  authority  over  a 
number  of  experienced  non-commissioned  officers  of  the 
Corps  of  Engineers.  By  so  doing  he  saved  tlie  expedition 
from  collapsing,  or,  at  all  events,  from  failure,  which  other- 
wise would  almost  inevitably  have  resulted.  In  the  midst 
of  the  greatest  difficidties  he  carried  on  this  work  for  six 
months,  at  a  time  when  as  yet  neither  Europeans  nor  natives 
were  accustomed  to  active  exertions  under  such  abnormal 
conditions,  and  in  such  a  hilly  and  unfavourable  region.  He 
acted  with  such  caution,  intelligence,  tact,  and  skill,  that 
he  was  al)le  to  hand  over  everything  in  the  best  possible 
order  to  Captain  Stewart's  successor,  Lieutenant  Conder, 
Iv.E.  During  the  time  that  he  was  thus  actively  employed 
as  the  leader  and  interpreter  of  the  whole  expedition  he 
laid  the  firmest  foundations  for  the  subsequent  separate 
measurements,  since  he  at  once  began  to  measure  out  a  base 


S\2  APrESDIX  I. 

in  connection  with  Wilson's  survey  of  Jerusalem,  whence  the 
triangulations  had  been  continued  northwards  to  the  plain 
of  Esdraclon,  where  a  second  base  was  to  be  measured.  Five 
hundred  square  miles  had  been  already  completely  surveyed, 
and  the  members  of  the  expedition  were  engaged  in  working 
out  their  observations  in  Nablus  (the  ancient  Sichem),  when 
Lieutenant  Conder  arrived.  It  is  to  his  courtesy  that  I  am 
indebted  for  the  greater  portion  of  the  details  of  this  part 
of  Drake's  active  career. 

Drake  had  entered  so  warmly  into  the  work  of  the 
expedition  that  he  would  not  now  abandon  it,  although  his 
health  obliged  him  several  times  to  go  for  change  of  air  to 
Damascus  or  home.  His  chief  work,  when  not  personally 
engaged  in  the  siu'vey,  was  determining  the  names  of  all 
the  places  laid  down  on  the  map  :  ruins,  mountains,  valleys, 
streams,  &c. — a  point  of  peculiar  importance  in  a  land  like 
Palestine.  To  avoid  error,  an  alphabetical  list  was  drawn 
up  for  each  section  of  the  map  of  tlie  names  of  the  localities, 
in  accordance  with  the  testimony  of  at  least  three  natives  of 
tlie  neighboiurhood,  who  accompanied  the  expedition  for  this 
purpose.  These  names  were  then  recorded  on  the  spot  in 
English  writing,  according  to  a  plan  agreed  upon,  and  in  the 
evening  of  the  same  day  they  were  read  out  in  presence  of 
the  natives,  compared  and  corrected,  imtil  the  natives  were 
quite  satisfied  with  tlie  pronunciation.  Then  they  were 
written  in  Arabic  characters  and  submitted  to  the  same  test. 
The  number  of  names  thus  ascertained  is  very  large,  at 
least  seven  or  eight  times  as  many  as  those  hitherto  given 
in  niai)s  or  Ixioks ;  on  the  map  of  Jerusalem  alone  there 
arc  above  1,(]00;  on  an  average  there  are  fifty  to  each 
German  sciuarc  mile,  which  in  such  a  thinly  populated 
country  is  a  large  proportion.  The  Bible  student  will  hence- 
forth possess  in  this  trusty  nomenclature  an  invaluable  help 
in  identifying  the  position  of  places  of  which  the  trace  had 


APPEXniX  I.  313 

been  almost  lost  in  the  lapse  of  centuries,  and  of  which  the 
names  have  been  preserved  in  the  Arabic  with  wonderful 
fidelity  almost  in  every  instance. 

Drake  accompanied  the  expedition  on  its  most  difficult 
undertakings,  the  most  prominent  of  which  was  the  survey 
of  the  valley  of  the  Jordan  in  the  spring  of  1874.  He  had 
already  had  several  attacks  of  illness,  and  was  especially 
subject  to  frequent  returns  of  asthma,  but  had  always  re- 
covered, until,  after  working  for  several  weeks  in  the  lower 
valley  of  the  Jordan,  he,  as  well  as  the  greater  number  of 
tjiose  engaged  in  the  expedition,  was  struck  down  with 
dangerous  fever  towards  the  close  of  the  rainy  season. 

It  was  only  owing  to  the  self-sacrificing  activity  of 
Dr.  Chaplin,  English  Physician  to  the  Mission  at  Jerusalem, 
that  the  invalids  were  saved  this  time.  Drake  had  had  the 
most  severe  attack,  yet  he  would  not  be  deterred  from  again 
joining  the  expedition  when  they  went  to  the  upper  portion 
of  tlie  valley  of  the  Jordan.  After  the  completion  of  this 
part  of  the  survey  he  returned,  still  ailing,  to  Jerusalem  ; 
but,  notwithstanding  this,  he  felt  equal  to  the  task  of  re- 
placing Lieutenant  Conder,  who  was  obliged  to  return  to 
England  on  business.  But  before  long  fever  again  attacked 
him,  and  this  time  in  the  form  of  typhoid.  The  poor  fellow 
lay  for  weeks  unconscious,  under  Dr.  Chaplin's  devoted  care, 
at  the  Mediterranean  Hotel  in  Jerusalem,  the  landlord  of 
which,  Mr.  Hornstein,  behaved  in  the  kindest  manner,  with- 
out considering  the  injury  wliich  might  result  to  his 
establishment  in  consequence. 

Wlien  I  left  Jerusalem — in  the  middle  of  June  1874 — 
I  was  not  able  to  take  leave  of  the  sick  friend  with  whom 
I  had  enjoyed  such  pleasant  and  profitable  intercom'se,  not 
only  in  that  town,  but  in  the  quarters  of  the  expedition  at 
Haifa  and  Nazareth,  as  also  in  the  encampments  near  Mar 
Saba,   and   in   the    neighbourhood   of   the   Jordan.     I  was 


314  AVrEXDIX  I. 

destined  never  to  see  him  again,  for,  when  at  the  end  of  the 
month  I  returned  to  Beyrout  from  a  journey  to  Damascus, 
I  heard  the  sad  news  of  his  death. 

Drake  was  aware  that  his  life  was  likely  to  be  a  com- 
paratively short  one,  and  therefore  he  endeavoured  to  make 
the  best  use  of  his  time,  that  he  might  not  have  lived  in 
vain.  Unhappily  this  noble  ambition  induced  him  not 
to  take  sufficient  care  of  his  health,  which  was  far  from 
strong,  and  his  zeal  not  improbably  helped  to  shorten  liis 
life.  It  is  a  poor  consolation  to  his  numerous-  friends  and 
admirers  to  know  that  he  accomplished  his  object,  and  that 
his  name  is  indeed  immortalised  in  the  history  of  tlie 
explorers  of  oiu-  globe,  especially  of  tlie  Holy  Land.  His 
was  a  thoroughly  noble  character,  of  a  purity  such  as  one 
seldom  sees,  and  full  of  faithfid  devotion  to  his  friends.  To 
these  qualities  lie  joined  such  remarkable  tact  and  such 
a  delicacy  of  feeling,  that  his  comrade.  Lieutenant  Conder, 
said  of  him,  tliat  during  the  whole  time  he  was  associated 
with  him  and  the  other  members  of  the  expedition — 
men  of  the  most  varied  dispositions  and  acquirements, 
thrown  together  in  the  intimate  way  which  must  be  the  case 
under  such  circumstances — never  did  he  give  occasion  for 
the  slightest  discord,  but  was  always  on  the  best  terms  with 
every  one.  He  gained  an  ascendency  over  the  Arabs,  with 
wlioin  lie  was  in  constant  intercourse  dm-ing  the  surveying 
expedition,  not  only  by  his  fine,  manly  figure  and  his 
accurate  knowledge  of  their  language,  but  still  more  by  his 
strict  sense  of  justice,  his  blameless  character,  and  a  firm- 
ness which  never  swerved  from  his  word  or  from  what  he 
thought  to  be  right.  Wherever  he  sojourned  with  them  he 
waa  warmly  remembered,  and  wherever  my  track  crossed  his 
in  the  land  of  ]\Ioab,  or  at  Kaukab  el  Hawa  (the  Belvoir  of 
the  Crusaders)  the  Budawin  and  Fellah  in  all  spoke  of  him 
with  love  and  admiral  iou  ;  thus  proving  to   mc  how  much 


APPENDIX  I.  015 

good  a  good  man  can  do  amongst  even  these  wild  races  by  bis 
presence  alone,  and  how  much  this  helps  to  clear  the  way 
for  others  who  may  afterwards  have  to  do  with  the  same 
people. 

Drake's  intention  was,  after  the  termination  of  the  sur- 
vey of  Palestine,  to  publish  the  result  of  his  rich  experiences 
about  this  land.  Eut,  alas !  death  snatched  him  away, 
leaving  an  irreparable  gap  in  the  ranks  of  the  brave  ex- 
plorers of  Palestine.  He  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing 
before  his  death,  that  the  work  in  which  he  took  so  deep 
an  interest  was  in  a  fair  way  of  being  much  more  speedily 
completed  than  was  at  first  anticipated,  owing  to  an  increase 
of  the  staff,  which  enabled  the  expedition  to  be  divided  into 
two  parties,  which  worked  simultaneously.  At  first  only 
60  square  miles  could  be  surveyed  per  month ;  this  was 
increased  to  100,  then  to  150,  and  at  length  to  2S0.  Above 
three-quarters  of  the  work  is  now  finished,  and  it  is  hoped 
that  in  the  summer  of  1876  the  whole  will  be  completed, 
and  the  publication  of  the  maps  at  once  begin. 

BIOGRAPHICAL  SUMMARY. 

Charles  Tyrwhitt  Drake,  born  at  Amersham  January  2, 
1846. 

During  the  winter  of  1866-67. — Journey  and  ornitholo- 
gical collections  in  Morocco,  Tangier,  Tetuan,  Mazagan, 
Mogador.  The  ornithological  notices  are  published  in  '  The 
Ibis,'  1867,  p.  421,  and  in  1869,  p.  147,  Notes  on  the 
Birds  of  Morocco. 

1868-69. — Journeys  in  Egypt  and  up  the  Nile,  and  on 
the  Peninsula  of  Mount  Sinai. 

1869. — Journey  with  Professor  Palmer  through  the 
Desert  of  El  Tih  and  in  Upper  Edom  and  Moab.  Return 
through  Palestine,  Syria,  Greece,  and  Turkey.      Vide  '  The 


316  APPENDIX  I. 

Desert  of  Till  and  the  Country  of  Moab '  (Palestine  Explora- 
tion Fund,  Jan.  1871,  new  series.  No.  1),  with  a  map, 
ilhistrations,  and  sketches  by  Drake. 

1870. — Journey  to  Hamah,  and  with  Captain  Burton  to 
almost  unknown  regions  of  Syria ;  this  last  published  in 
*  Unexplored  Syria,'  by  Burton  and  Drake. 

1871  to  1874.— Survey  of  Western  Palestine,  in  con- 
nection with  the  Palestine  Exploration  Fund.  Vide  numerous 
articles  by  Drake  in  the  Quarterly  Statement  of  the  Society, 
and  the  parapldet  '  JNIodern  Jerusalem,'  by  Charles  Tyrwhitt 
Drake.     Loudon:    1875. 

1874,  June  23. — Drake's  death  at  Jerusalem. 


yi; 


APPE^^)Ix  IT. 

Cringleford  Hall,  Norwich,  Dec.  8, 1876. 
•I  AM  very  glad  to  know  that  the  literary  remains  of  the  late 
Mr.  C.  F.  Tyrwhitt  Drake  are  being  collected  and  arranged 
for  publication.  The  Palestine  Exploration  Fund  has  been 
most  fortunate  in  the  men  wlio  have  devoted  themselves 
to  the  carrying  out  of  its  deeply  interesting  but  diflficult 
purpose. 

My  first  acquaintance  with  the  late  Mr.  C.  F.  T.  Drake 
was  made  in  1871,  when  he  and  Mr.  Palmer  visited  Jeru- 
salem after  accomplishing  their  successful  journey  on  foot 
through  the  desert.  The  last  evening  of  their  stay  in  tlie 
Holy  City  they  spent  with  us  at  our  encampment  outside  the 
city  walls,  when  they  greatly  amused  and  interested  us  by  a 
relation  of  some  of  their  experiences  and  adventures  in 
Bedawin  life.  Wlienever  afterwards  Mr.  Drake  came  to 
Jerusalem  he  called  and  told  me  about  his  work,  as  he 
knew  I  was  mucli  interested  in  all  that  was  being  done  by 
the  Palestine  Exploration  Fund.  Our  conversations  on 
these  occasions  naturally  led  us  to  the  Bible,  and  Mr.  Drake 
always  gave  a  ready  assent  to  any  remark  upon  tlie  accuracy 
of  Scripture  testimony.  It  was,  liowever,  during  the  last 
few  weeks  of  his  life  that  I  saw  most  of  him,  when  I  was 
a  constant  visitor  to  his  sick  room.  Upon  these  occasions 
I  always  received  a  welcome,  for,  if  too  ill  to  speak,  he 
would  put  out  his  hand  or  give  a  kind  look  to  express  his 


318  APPEXDIX  IT. 

thanks  for  my  visit,  and  whenever  he  felt  himself  worse 
tlian  usual  he  sent  for  me.  During  the  last  week  of  his 
illness — after  INIiss  Dickson  had  become  his  kind  and  atten- 
tive nurse — I  had  tlie  opportunity  I  had  so  long  desired  of 
freely  speaking  to  him  upon  spiritual  matters.  Gradually  his 
natural  reserve  on  the  subject  of  religion  was  removed,  and 
on  liis  last  Sunday  in  particular  I  was  greatly  cheered  by  his 
altered  manner  in  this  respect,  and  still  more  so  when, 
early  the  following  morning,  he  sent  for  me  and  appeared 
so  glad  to  have  me  read  and  pray  with  him.  During 
that  day,  and  also  on  several  previous  ones,  he  himself 
chose  portions  of  Scripture  (cliiefly  from  the  Grospels — St. 
John  in  particular),  and  asked  Miss  D.  to  read  them  to  him. 
On  the  Monday  evening,  as  we  were  not  sure  that  he  realised 
how  near  he  was  to  eternity,  we  asked  Dr.  Chaplin  if  he 
would  intimate  to  him  the  opinion  he  had  expressed  to  us 
that  his  patient  would  not  live  tlirough  that  night.  This 
Dr.  C.  most  kindly  did  about  nine  o'clock.  For  a  moment 
the  sufferer  appeared  startled  at  the  solemn  thought,  but 
as  soon  as  he  realised  that  he  was  in  a  dying  state  all 
reserve  vanished,  and  he  immediately  said,  '  Oh,  ]Mr.  Bailey, 
come  and  pray;'  and  most  earnestly  did  he  join  in  that 
j)rayer.  Ho  then  asked  me  to  read  and  tell  him  all  tliat 
Christ  had  said  about  pardoning  sin  and  accepting  sinners. 
After  this  he  remarked,  *  I  have  for  a  long  time  entertained 
many  doubts,  but  now  these  doubts  are  removed,  and  I  fully 
believe  in  Christ  as  my  Saviour,  and  that  He  will  pardon 
and  receive  me.'  I  quoted  one  or  two  Grospel  promises  which 
assure  us  of  God's  readiness  to  receive  penitent  sinners,  and 
of  the  power  of  Christ's  blood  to  cleanse  from  all  sin ;  and 
then  he  exclaimed,  '  I  do  fulb/  believe  He  has  pardoned  mo, 
and  that  He  will  receive  me  into  heaven.'  From  that 
moment  he  seemed  not  to  have  a  doubt  concerning  the  great 
matter  of  his  soul's  salvation.     It  was  a  most  remarkable 


Arri:xDix  ii.  mo 

iind  beautiful  iustanco  of  simple  faith  taking-  liokl  of  Christ, 
and  feeling  the  promises  of  God  to  be  a  blessed  reality  ;  I 
never  saw  a  more  cheering  instance.  His  mind  appeared  to 
remain  clear  to  the  end,  and  the  very  last  word  I  remember 
him  saying  was  *  Christ  Jesus.'  About  midniglit  it  was  my 
privilege  to  administer  the  Holy  Communion  to  him,  which 
he  much  enjoyed.  His  messages  of  love  to  his  family  were 
very  touching,  especially  to  his  mother,  for  whom  he  evi- 
dently cherished  tlie  deepest  affection. 

About  six  o'clock  on  Tuesday  morning  he  quietly 
breathed  his  last,  still  holding  my  hand,  as  he  had  done 
during  the  greater  part  of  that  memorable  night.  When 
I  committed  his  body  to  the  ground  about  sunset  of  that 
day,  the  beautiful  words  of  our  Burial  Service,  '  We  commit 
his  body  to  the  grave  in  sure  and  certain  hope  of  the 
resurrection  to  eternal  life,  through  Jesus  Christ  our 
Lord,'  seemed  most  appropriate  and  animating,  as  well  as 
comforting  to  us  who  knew  him. 

W.  J3ailey. 


To  til  is  may  be  added  the  following  extracts  from  the 
letter  written  very  shortly  after  his  death  : — 

Jerusalem,  July  17,  1874. 
'  It  was  most  cheering  to  us  all  to  see  how  at  once,  with- 
out reserve,  he  threw  himself  into  the  Lord's  hands,  and 
earncsily  sought  the  pardon  of  his  sins  and  the  salvation  of 
his  soul.  Such  childlike  earnest  faith  in  Christ  for  salvation 
I  scarcely  ever  before  witnessed.  .  .  .  Frequently  we 
heard  him  in  earnest  prayer,  and  at  other  times  repeating 
texts  of  Scriptiure,  especially  1  Tim.  i.  15.  .  .  .  More 
than  once  after  this  he  told  us  that  he  felt  that  God  had 


:V20  APPEXDIX  II. 

tlirou<j;h  Christ  Jesus  pardoned  liis  sins,  and  accepted  him  in 
and  throu<;h  tlie  Beloved  One,  so  that  long  before  his  end 
not  .a  doubt  of  liis  acceptance  appeared  to  remain,  and  at 
two  or  three  different  times  he  expressed  the  desire  to  depart 
and  be  with  Christ.' 


^' 


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