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THE
LONDON ART OF COOKERY,
AND
Domestic Housekeepers Complete Assistant,
UNITING
THE PRINCIPLES OF
ELEGANCE, TASTE, AND ECONOMY;
AND ADAPTED
TO THE VSE OF SERVANTS,
AND
FAMILIES. OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.
CONTAINING
Every elegant and plain Preparation in im-
proved Modern Cookery;
Pickling, Potting, Salting, Collaring, and Sous-
ing >
The whole Art of Confectionary, and making
of Jellies, Jams, Creams, and Ices;
The Preparation of Sugar*, Candying, and
Preserving;
Made Wines, Cordial-waters, and Malt-liquor* j
Bills of Fare for each Month;
Wood-cuts, illustrative of Truising, Carv-
ing, &c.
BY
JOHN FARLEY,
, FORMERLY PRINCIPAL COOK AT THE LONDON TAVERN-
Cije toelrt) Ctrition.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR SCATCHERD AND LETTEUMAN, AVE-MARIA LANE;
C. WILKIE AND J. ROBINSON ; J. WALKER S LONGMAN, HURST, REE8, ORME, AND
BROWN ; CADELL AND DAVIES ; LACKINGTON, ALLEN, AND CO. ; J. RICHARDSON ;
DARTON AND HARVEY ; 3. NUNN ; B. CROiBY AND CO. J T. HUOHFS } GALE AND
CURTIS ; AND CRADOCK AND JOY.
1811-
'"fc,{Ui.ghB aud ItuWI.-tiid, Ht
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INTRODUCTION..... 1
HINTS ON DOMESTIC ECONOMY S
CHAPTER I. Marketing 9
II. Trussing 19
III. Boiling 26
IV. Roasting 36
V. Baking 45
VI. Broiling 49
VII. Frying 54
VIII. Stews and Hashes 60
IX. Ragouts 7G
X. Fricandeaus..,.. 81
XI. Fricassees 82
XII. Made-dishes 134
XIII. Frugal-dishes 134
XIV. Sauces , 141
XV. Soups and Broths ., 159
XVI. Roots and Vegetables 175
XVII. Puddings isi
XVIII. Pies 199
XIX. Pancakes and Fritters , ,...,,. .'., 218
PART II.
CHAPTER I. Pickling , 2-25
II. Collaring 239
III. Potting 243
IV. Salting and Sousing 250
V. Garden-stuffs and Fruits., , , 258
vin
CONTENTS.
PART III.
CHAPTER I. Sugars 263
II. Tarts and Pufts * 265
III. Cakes 270
IV. Custards and Cheesecakes... 280
V. Creams and Jams 284
VI. Jellies and Syllabubs 290
VII. Preserving 298
VIII. Drying and Candying 307
IX. Ornaments for the Table 313
X. Instructions for Carving 316
PART IV.
CHAPTER I. Made Wines 324
II. Cordial-waters 339
III. Malt-liquors 345
APPENDIX.
SECTION I. Considerations on Culinary PoisoHs ....;..,. 36*
II. Bread, Cakes, Muffins, &c.... 367
III. Nourishment for the Sick 371
IV. Necessary Articles for Seafaring Persons 376
V. General Observations on the Breeding of
Poultry 379
CATALOGUE OF GARDEN-STUFFS, POULTRY, AND FISH 383
USEFUL TABLES 387
INDEX .,,,,,...,,...,......,,,... 393
PREFACE.
V^OOKERY, like every other Art, has been moving
forward to Perfection by slow Degrees; and yet
daily Improvements are still making, as must be the
Case in every Art depending on Fancy and Taste.
From the many Books of this Kind already pub-
lished, it could hardly be supposed there would be
occasion for another, yet we flatter ourselves, that
the Readers of this Work will find, from a candid
Perusal, and an impartial Comparison, that our
Pretensions to the Favours of the Public are not ill
founded.
The Generality of Books on Cookery are grouped
together, without Method or Order, and therefore
rendered intricate and bewildering; even the Re-
ceipts are written with so much Carelessness and
Inaccuracy, that they are not only perplexing, but
frequently unintelligible. In this Work, however,
PREFACE.
we hope, that Perspicuity and Regularity will be
seen in every step we have taken. We have divided
the whole Book into separate Parts, and those Parts
into Chapters; so that our Readers have only to look
into the Contents, and they will there find at one
view, the whole of that Branch of Cookery they may
want to consult. The Utility of regularly classing
every Thing in a Book of this Kind is too obvious to
need Arguments lo support it.
The greatest Care and Precaution have boon
taken to admit nothing inelegant, or prejudicial to
the Constitution, in any of the Receipts ; and we
have not only given, in the Appendix, a distinct
Section on Culinary Poisons, but have also in dif-
ferent Parts of the Work reminded the Cooks of
the fatal Consequences of not keeping their Coppers
and Saucepans properly clean and tinned,
As Farley's Cookery is intended for the Use of
all Ranks in general, not only for those who have
attained a tolerable Knowledge of Cookery, but
also for others less experienced, .we have occasion-
filly given the most simple with the most sumptuous
dishes, and thereby afforded the means of decorating
the Table of the Peer, or the M&hauic.
The various Branches of Pastry and Confection-
ary, comprising Pies, Puddings, Cakes, Custards,
PREFACE. VII
Jams, Creams, Jellies, Preserves, Conserves, Ices,
and all the other numerous and elegant Articles of
that Class ; as well as the Preparation of Pickles,
the Art of making Wines, Liqueurs, and Cordials,
are treated under distinct Heads, and rendered
plain, easy, and familiar, to every Capacity. We
shall only add, that neither Labour, Care, nor Ex-
pense have been spared to make this Work worthy
of the Patronage of the Public.
iSCWn.
I
BILL OF FARE FOR JANUARY.
FIRST COURSE.
BILL OF FARE FOR FEBRUARY
FIRST COURSE
SI
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SECOND COURSE.
BILL OF FARE FOR MARCH,
FIRST COURSE.
SECOND COURSE.
BILL OF FARE FOR FEBRUARY.
FIRST COURSE
I
SECOND COURSE.
BILL OF FARE FOR MARCH,
FIRST COURSE.
1
BILL OF FARE FOR APRIL.
FIRST COURSE.
SECOND COURSE.
BILL OF FARE FOR MA
FIRST COURSE.
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SECOND COURSE.
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FIRST COURSE.
SECOND COURSE.
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FIRST COURSE.
SECOND COURSE.
BILL OF FARE FOR SEPTEMBER.
FIRST COURSE.
SECOND COURSE.
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FIRST COURSE.
SECOND COURSE.
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SECOND COURSE.
THE
LONDON ART OF COOKERY.
INTRODUCTION.
AN a publication like the present, it would be of
little utility to trace the origin of cookery; nor would
it be easy to say at what period man exchanged
vegetable for animal diet : certain it is, that he no
sooner began to feed on. flesh, fowl, and fish, than
seasonings of some kind became requisite, not only
to render such food more pleasing and palatable,
but also to help digestion and prevent putrefaction.
Of these seasonings, salt was probably the first dis-
covered; though some are inclined to think, that
savory roots and herbs were previously used. Spices,
however, such as ginger, cinnamon, pepper, cloves,
and nutmegs, by degrees came into practice, and
the whole art of cookery gradually improved, till it
reached its present perfection.
Boiling, or stewing, seems to have been the first
mode of, dressing; toasting, or broiling, succeeded
next; and beyond these, no improvements were
made in the art of cookery for several centuries.
The introduction of trade and commerce into Eu-
rope, soon made us acquainted with the products of
other countries; and rich fruits and spices, im-
B
11 INTRODUCTION.
ported from the most remote regions of the globe
were soon sought after with avidity. Cookery, in-
cluding pickling, and the various branches of con-
fectionary, soon became an art, and was as methodi-
cally studied as the more polite sciences. A regular
apprenticeship is now served to it; and the profes-
sors of it are incorporated by charter, as forming
one of the livery companies of London. Since then
Cookery must be considered as an art, we shall pro-
ceed to treat of its different branches in regular
order ; but preface our directions, by some useful
hints on domestic economy.
1 o every mistress of a family, we cannot too strenuously
Recommend the superintendence of her domestic concerns, the
investigation oP all accounts, particularly those of her trades-
men and her servants; and the most strict scrutiny into the
characters of those she may admit as inmates of her house.
Amongst the minor duties inseparable from her situation, are,
the attention to her storeroom, and linen of every description.
In the former, should be a selection of the most unperish^
able stores, of which description are groceries, candles, soap,
starch, &c. ; and of the latter, no more should be delivered to
the housekeeper, than are absolutely requisite for constant
use ; and of these a correct inventory made, as a check upon
the housekeeper, who will thereby be compelled to account
for every deficiency.
The Housekeeper*
SHOULD take her orders for the day, early in the morning \
by which means all the under-servants will have sufficient
time to perform their several duties, without either hurry or
neglect : it is also her indispensable duty, not only to see
that all the female servants perform their work in the most
perfect manner ; but that, in the discharge of it, they do not
waste any thing. As all the linen in constant use is com-
mitted to her charge, she should see that it is neatly mended
if torn ; and should take care that it is not heedlessly torn or
unnecessarily soiled : and before any more is given out, that
the different articles already used, have been pat in their
proper places. As under-servants are ever too ready to con-
sider coarse cloths, such a.s duste.s, &,c. of little value; no
more should be given them, unless they produce the remains
of the old ones, and sufficiently account for their being worn
out. As she will have the care of the stores for immediate
consumption, she should be sparing in the distribution of
B 2
4 MINTS ON DOMESTIC ECONOMY.
them ; particularly groceries, soap, and candles : the former
are too often demanded for the purpose of entertaining
friends; and the latter, frequently for a worse purpose. She
should daily register the notes of the butcher, baker, fish-
monger, and ot ers ; and see that the articles specified in
those notes, are actually of the implied weight and quality.
As the housekeeper has more confidence placed in her than
any other servant, of course her responsibility is greater ; and
she cannot do better than consider herself as the faithful
steward of her master. Her bill of fare should contain a suf-
ficient variety ; and the different articles selected snould, when
dressed, be so placed upon the table, as to accord with each
other, thereby forming a picture, that, by pleasing the eye,
may excite an appetite.
The Cook
WILL be immediately under the inspection of the house-
keeper ; but it is her province to dress the meat according to
the modern costume, and afterwards to dish it up in an ele-
gant manner. The larder must be particularly attended to,
for on its neatness, the keeping of the meat, poultry, &c. will
very much depend. The dressers, shelves, &c. must be well
scoured, and the floor washed with plenty of cold water, and
thoroughly mopped dry : for want of this precaution, musti-
ness is produced. All butcher's meat should be sent in before
sun-rise ; but as it is almost impossible to prevent flies from
blowing it, the whole should be carefully looked over, and
wiped clean and dry. All meat intended to be eaten cold,
shouloVbe rather over-done in summer ; for the gravy makes
it spoil : roasted meat must be sprinkled with salt before taken
from the fire. Cold meat of every kind, should be changed
morning and evening into clean and dry dishes. Stews,
sauces, and soups, should be boiled every second day at least
in summer, to prevent fermentation. Lardings returned
whole to the kitchen, should be covered with the sheets of
bacon that covered them before they were taken out of the
braise; and then put again into the same braise. Tenderones
of lamb and veal, ox rumps, beef or veal olives, roulards of
mutton or veal, rump of beef, and every other thing done in
braises, should be carefully attended to ; as they may be re-
peatedly served at table, with the same elegance as at first.
Remember never to overstock the larder. For the care of
different joints, poultry, c. See Marketing.
Very much will depend upon the care and economy of the
cook : by good management, she may be the means of saving
a large sum in the article of coals, bv carefully reserving the
cinders for the laundry. As much very valuable china is an-
HINTS ON DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 5
nually broken, for want of a little care; she will do well to
change ail the best dishes for common ones, as soon as the
dinner is sent from the dining-room. Respecting her culi-
n.i rv vessel, i hey should be je\er kept with the greatest clean-
liness ; and fresh tinned whenever they may want it. Tin
meat-covers are soon spoiled if not wiped dry after being
u.>eJ, and they may be restored to their Conner polish without
injurv, bv usi;tg the following preparation : take fine whiting,
ba-elv moistened with olive oil ; with this and a piece of soft
leather rub the covers; wipe clean with a soft linen, and
lastly, sprinkle over them some dr} T whiting in fine po\vder,
and polish with leather.
The Housemaid
WILL also be particularly under the inspection of the house-
keeper; but still a great deal will depend upon her own
cleanliness and exertions : the beds not in use should be
every day aired by shaking t^em, and the blankets nicely
folded and placed between the bed and mattress: the curtains
and hangings should be slightly srmken and dusted with a
proper brush, and replaced in their former order. Before
sweeping the rooms, t l >ey should be sprinkled with tea-leaves,
and the carpets swept with a proper whisk-brush. In towns,
carpets are very liable to be soiled by smoke, dust, &c. in
which case, the following application, published by the Society
for the encouragement of Arts, c. will be invariably found
to remove the dirt, c. For every gallon of w.,ter intended
to be used, take eight raw potatoes, grate them into fine
pulp, mix them with the water, and wash the carpet slightly
with a large spunge : this mixture will not only clean, but
restore the colour of carpets to their former beauty.
For removing grease-spots on the boards Apply a few drops
of oil of turpentine, rubbing it in with the finger: this will
dissolve the grease, and make it mix with the soap when
washed.
For preventing steel and iron from rusting. Take mutton
suet, melt and strain it; warm the steel, or iron; nib it with
the melted suet, and sprinkle finely powdered hot lime over
it: or take two pounds of unsalted hogslard, melt it, and whilst
warm, add as much black lead as will thicken it; rub this over
the iron or steel.
For taking: rust out of polished grates, fenders, &V. Apply
olive oil, letting it remain on the spot for forty-eight hours :
powder some hot or unslackecl lime, sprinkle it over the place,
and rub till the rust disappear.
For taking the black or burnt parts out of polished steel bar*.
Boil in two- quarts of water, one pound of soft soap, till re-
6 HINTS ON DOMESTIC ECONOMY.
duced to one quart: this when cold will form a jelly; of
which take three spoonsful, and mix to the thickness of paste
by adding powdered rmery : rub the bars with some of this
mixture put on a piece of clean cloth, and polish with glasi
paper.
For blacking stoves. -Take blacklead one pound, table
beer one pint, soft soap about the size of a wa! iut ; boil till
the soap is dissolved : with this mixture brush over the stove,
and when dry, polish with a common stove brush. Or take
blacklead one pound, water a pint and a half, common gum
one ounce: boil till the gum is dissolved, and apply it as in
the former c.ise.
For blacking stone chimney-pieces. Grind together oil var-
nish and lamp black, add spirits of turpentine, till reduced to
the thickness of paint. Having previously well cleaned the
stone, and dried it, apply a coat of this varnish with a fine
brush, and when quite dry a second coat. This varnish is
usually sold under the name of Brunswick blacking.
For taking iron-moulds cut of marble. Drop a verv small
quantity of weak oil of vitriol on the spots, rub with a linen
rag, and they will disappt-ar: but observe immediately to
wash the part with soap and water. As marble will in time
become yellow, the following preparation will both- remove
it and also fresh polish it: mix unslacked lime with strong
soap-ley, as thick as batter; lay it on with a brush, and in
two months time wash it off with a strong lather of soap and
water: the polish may be heightened by well rubbing with a
plean hard brush.
The Laundiymaid
SHOULD always use the cinders reserved for her use by the
cook, as they will answer equally well with coals; arid when
burnt either in the ironing stove or under the copper, will
give an intense heat. She will find that by soaking the
clothes over night in soft water, that they will wash much
more easily ; especially if the parts most soiled be slightly
rubbed with soap. The best laundresses use a ley made by
pouring water upon wood-ashes, and straining through an
hair-cloth this ley not only saves soap, but gives a beautiful
whiteness to the linen. In washing flannels, be careful never
to pour boiling water upon them, as it will thicken them ;
but take the flannels, and put them in scalding water, which
will keep them thin. Ink-stains, fruit-stains, and iron-mould,
are easily removed by using the essential salt of lemons.
Spirit ot salt may be also used for the same purpose ; but if
the part -is not immediately washed with soap and water, the
texture of the linen may be hurt by it. In getting up fine-
HINTS ON DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 7
things, the clear-starchers use gum-water ; but as gum-arabic
is very dear, its use should be confined to the finest articles.
The Butler
HAS, in most situations, nearly as great responsibility as the
housekeeper; of course, like her, he has the superintendence
of the footmen, and he should be particularly careful that
the table, sideboard, &c. are well cleaned and rubbed ; that
the glasses and plate are brilliant and unsullied ; and that
both the disposition of the table and sideboard are neat and
elegant. For cleaning plate, there is not any thing equal to
rouge, the substance used for that purpose by the silversmiths
and their polishers : it may be had at Fenn's, in Newgate
Street ; and at Knight's, in Forster Lane. In using it, a very
small quantity may either be wetted with water, and slightly
rubbed over the plate with a soft spunge, and afterwards po-
lished with soft leather : or it may be mixed with olive oil,
and use the leather. The cellar should be ever kept with
the greatest neatness ; and it will be highly creditable to the
butler, if a regular cellar-book is kept; ty means of which,
his master will easily perceive the faithful disposal of every
bottle consumed. See Wines and Beer.
The Footman
WILL be under the control of the butler, and it will be
greatly to his credit if every thing be kept in the neatest
and best order. The decanters are apt to become furred, in
which case they may be effectually cleansed and restored to
their brilliancy, by scraping a raw potatoe into a pint of water :
with this, rinse them, aad wash it out with clean water. An
highly polished table and sideboard should be the foatman's
pride : to obtain which, the Speenhausan receipt will very
much contribute: take cold-drawn linsed oil, two quarts;
alkanet-root bruised, two ounces; rose-pink, one ounce : put
them together into a bottle, let them stand for a fortnight,
shaking the bottle three or four times a day. To use this
oil, the table must be first washed with warm vinegar, and
when dry, the oil rubbed on with a linen cloth ; in this state
it should remain at least six hours, when it may be wiped off
.with linen, and then polished with a linen cloth. Observe,
you must never use a woollen cloth. At every other clean-
ing, it will be sufficient to use the oily cloth, and polish with
a dry one. Tables rubbed with oil, acquire in time a polish
unattainable by any other means: the common tables at
Speen Hill ?.re a proof of this. But as this oil requires .a
constant and continued use, it may not perhaps, on the whole,
be as well liked as the following: take four ounces of bees-
wax, and half an ounce of white rosin, melt them in one ounce
.of olive oil, adding rose-pink to make it of' a beautiful colour;
8 MINTS ON DOMESTIC ECONOMY.
to this composition add as much spirit of turpentine as will
make it of the thickness of honey. Rub it on the table with
a piece of linen cloth, and polish \\ith a clean cloth. The
turpentine will fly off, consequently a little more must be
added, as it grows too tliick. Nothing will more effectually
clean coats, &c. after they have been first beaten and brushed,
than by sprinkling them with a little dry sand, and brushing
it o.'Y with the grain of the cloth. Grease spots may be re-
moved by scraping upon them a little French chalk, rubbing
it in well with the finger, and afterwards brushing it off: or
by dropping a few drops of spirit of turpentine upon it, and
rubbing it in well. The best blacking for shoes, r -itdc by
dissolving the improved blacking-cake in water, wh cii i. ^old
by Bailey, in Cockspur Street. And the following is an inva-
luable recipe for cleaning boot -tops : take half an ounce of
oil of vitriol, two ounces of water, and nvx i ; ndi.;>iiy ;n a
strong earthen pot ; (if not mixed gradually w ith the '. ater,
it will heat too much and crack the p^t). With uiis liquid
wash the boot-tops, and wipe them dry. Huve ready the
white of one egg weli beaten in tlie juice of a lemon, and
when well mixed, add half a pint of mi!k. With this mix'ure,
wash over the boot-tops : when dry, wash then. ith n,nk and
water, wipe them quite dry, and brush them with a ciean hard
brush.
The Coachman
GFNERALLY is entrusted by his master to purchase the hay,
oats, beans, and straw : in the choice of all these he cannot be
too particular, as his horses cannot thrive upon bad coin or
hay, nor will straw of a bad quality last nearly as long as good.
In case of the illness of his horses, he should not consult
every ignorant farrier, nor undertake the cure of them him.
self. It will be less expense to take the advice of a veteri-
nary surgeon. The varnish of carriages becomes, after a little
use, rather dull, even by the best care : in this case it may be
much heightened by using a little fine tripoli, moistened wilh
olive oil, and put upon soft leather : with this let the carriage
be rubbed and then wiped off, and polish off with olive oil
and a clean leather. The harness should be oiled in the in-
side, and blacked on the outside : by this means it will always
look well, and never crack: the plate maybe cleaned with;*
fine whiting.
The Groom
MAY always easily clean his stirrups, bits, &c. by rubbing
them over-night with olive oil, and by sprinkling hot lime on
them in the morning : rub this off with a soft leather. The
saddle may be cleaned by the composition nlready directed
for boot-tops.
CHAPTER 1.
MARKETING.
DIRECTIONS FOR THE PROPER CHOICE OF DIFFERENT
KINDS OF PROVISIONS.
IN the choice of ox-beef, observe, that, if the meat is
young, it will have a fine smooth open grain, of a pleasing
carnation reel, and feel tender ; the fat must be rather white
than yellow ; for when it is quite yellow, the meat is seldom
good ; the suet must be perfectly white. The grain of cow-
beef is closer, the fat whiter than that of ox-beef, but the
lean has not so bright a red. The grain of bull-beef is still
closer, the fat hard and skinny, the lean of a deep red, and
has a stronger smell than either cow or ox-beef.
THE JOINTS IN THE OX ARE I
Sirloin - -
Rump - - - - -
Edge-bone -
Buttock -
Mouse ditto - -
Veiny-piece -
Thick-flank -
Thin, ditto
Leg -
Fore-rib: containing five ribs -
"Middle-rib: containing four ribs
Chuck : containing three ribs
Leg-of-mutton-piece,or shoulder 1 3
Brisket -
Clod - - ,-
Neck or sticking-piece -
Shin
Cheek -
- 14
- 15
- 16
- 17
- 18
CARE OF THE DIFFERENT JOINTS.
Sirloin. Tn this the flies are apt to blow under the loose
side of the fat : wipe clean and dry, sprinkle the fat with
salt; take out the pipe running along the chine-bone, and
rub the place and the bone with salt ; take out the kernel at
10
MARKETING.
the thick end, fill the hole with salt ; and take out the pith,
and rub the place with salt.
Rump. Take out the kernel left in the fat, filling the hole
with salt ; and sprinkle salt slightly over the whole.
Ribs. Cutoff the piece of skirt; nub the chine-bone, the
inside of the ribs, and the tops of the ribs with salt. The
above, should be all hung up.
Hound or buttock. Take out the kernel called the Pope's
eye, and the other in thick fat. Without this precaution, no
quantity of salt-will preserve it in summer.
Thick-flank. Take out the kernel in the middle of the fat.
Edge or aitch-bone. Take out the- kernel where the rump
is cut off.
Brisket. Joint the bones, to let in the salt.
Mutton.
IF you squeeze young mutton with your fingers, it will feel
very tender; but if it be old, it will feel hard and continue
wrinkled, and the fat will be fibrous and clammy. The grain
of ram mutton is close, the flesh is of a deep red, and the fat
is spongy and yellow. The flesh of ewe mutton is paler than
that of the wether, and the grain is closer. Most people give
the preference to short-shanked mutton.
THE JOINTS IN THE SHEEP ARE:
Leg
Loin, best end
Ditto, chump ditto
Neck, best ditto
Ditto, scrag ditto
Shoulder -
Breast -
Chine, is two loins.
Saddle, is two necks.
CARE OF THE DIFFERENT JOINTS.
Leg. Take out the kernel from the fat of the upper part ;
fill ttie hole with salt, and sprinkle salt slightly over the whole
in summer.
Shoulder. Rub the inside well with salt.
Chine. Take out the kernel near the tail, rub the place
MARKETING.
11
with salt; take out the kidney-fat quite clean, cut the pipe
running along the back-bone, and rub the inside with salt.
Neck. Wipe quite dry with a cloth; trim the scrag;
sprinkle the chine-bone and the inside of the ribs with salt.
Breast. Cut out the skirt, and sprinkle both sides with
salt. These joints are all to be hung, and these directions are
chiefly applicable to summer.
Lamb.
THE head of a lamb is good, if the eyes are bright and
plump; but if they are sunk and wrinkled, it is stale. If the
vein in the neck of the fore-quarter appear of a fine blue, it
is fresh ; but if it be green or yellow, you may be sure it is
stale. In the hind quarter, if there be a faint disagreeable
smell near the kidney, or if the knuckle is very limber, it is
not good.
Lamb is generally cut in quarters if divided into joints,
observe the same rules as those for mutton.
Veal.
THE Mesh of a co\v-calf is whiter than that of a bull, but
the flesh is not so firm ; the fillet of the former is generally
preferred, on account of the udder; if the head is fresh, the
eyes will be plump; but if stale, they will be sunk and wrink-
led. If the vein in the shoulder is not of a bright red, the meat
is not fresh : and if there are any green or yellow spots in it, it
is very bad. A good neck an:J breast will be white and dry;
but if they are clammy, and look green or yellow at the upper
end, they are stale. The kidney is the soonest apt to taint in
the loin, and if it is stale, it will be soft and slimy. .A leg is
good if it be firm and white ; but bad if it is limber, and the
flesh flabby, with green or yellow spots.
THE JOINTS- IN A CALF ARE C
Loin, best end -
Ditto, chump ditto
Filler -
Hind-knuckle -
Fore-kn"ck!e -
Neck, best end - -
Ditto, scrag ditto
Blade-bone . - -
Breast, best end
Ditto, brisket ditto - -
12
MARKETING.
CARE OF THE DIFFERENT JOINTS.
Leg. Wipe the udder perfectly drv : take out the skewer
which fastens down the udder, a- d rub t.Mj hole with s<ilt ;
and take out the kernel from the tincl; fat.
Loin. Cut out the pipe running along the chine-bone ;
wipe dry with a do'h; examine the kidney of tiie loose side,
wipe dry; and having taken out the kernel in the inside of
the chump, sprinkle the whole over slightlv with salt.
Neck. Cut out the pipe running along the chine-bo n e ;
wipe the chine and the inside of the ribs very dry. and slightly
sprinkle with salt.
Breast. Cut off the skirt on the inside, rub dry, and
sprinkle with salt.
Pork.
MEASLY pork is very dangerous to eat ; but this state of it
is eas-iy discovered, by the tat being full of little kernels. If
it is young the lean will break on beiug pinched, and the skin
will dent, by nipping it with the fingers: the fat, like lard,
will be soft and pulpy. If the rind is thick, rough, and can-
not be nipped with the fingers, it is old. It the flesh is cool
and smooth, it is fresh ; but if it is clammy, it is tainted ; and,
in this case, the knuckle part will always be the worst. Ob-
serve, a thin rind is always best.
THE JOINTS IN A PIG ARE :
Theaparerib - -
Hand - -
Beily or spring -
Fore-loin
Hind-loin
Leg -
Pork intended for roasting, should be always previously
sprinkled with salt, as it eats with much more relish.
Hams.
THOSE are the best which have the shortest shank. If you
put a knife under the bone of a ham, and if it come out clean,
MARKETING.
13
and smell well, it is good ; but if it is danbed and smeared,
and has a disagreeable smell, be sure not to buy it.
Bacon.
IF bacon is good, the fat will feel oilv, and look white, and
the lean will be of a good colour; and SUCK close to the bone ;
but it is, or will be rusty very soon, if ri ere are anv yeilow
streaks in the lean. The rind of y oung bacon is Always thin j
but thick, if old.
Brawn.
THE rind of old brawn is thick and hard ; but young, if
moderate. 7'he rind and fat of barrow and sow brawn are
very tender.
Venison.
THE fat of venison must, in a great measure, determine
your choice of it. If the fat is thick, bright, and dear, the
clefts smooth and close, it is young ; but a very wide tough
cleft, shows it is old. Venison will first change at the
haunches and shoulders : run in a knife, and you will judge
of its newness or staleness, by its sweet or rank smell. If it is
tainted, it will look greenish or inclining to be very black.
THE JOINTS IN A DEER ARE :
Haunch
Neck -
Shoulder
Breast -
Rub the different joints till perfectly dry; wipe over with
a fresh dry cloth ; and sprinkle over the whole, a composition
of three parts of pepper and one of salt. Observe to take
the kernel out of the haunch, as already directed for mutton.
Turkeys.
IF acock turkey is young-, it will have a smooth black leg,
with a short spur; the eyes will be full and bright, and the
feet limber and moist ; but you must carefully observe, that the
spurs are not cut or scraped to deceive you. When a turkey
is stale, the feet are dry and the eyes sunk. The same rule
14 MARKETING.
will determine whether a hen-turkey be fresh or stale, young
or old; with this difference, that if old, her legs will be rough
and red ; if with egg, the vent will be soft and open ; but if
she have no eggs, the vent will be hard.
Cocks and Hens.
THE spurs of a young cock are short ; -but the same pre-
caution will be as necessary here, in that point, as just ob-
served in Ihe choice of turkeys. Their vents will be open, if
stale ; but close and hard, if fresh. Hens are always best
when full of eggs, and just before they begin to lay. The
combs and legs of an old hen are rough ; but smooth when
young. The comb of a good capon is very pale, its breast is
peculiarly fat, and it has a thick belly, and a large rump.
Geese. '
A YELLOW bill and feet, with but few hairs upon them, are
the mark of a young goose, but these are red when old. The
feet will be limber, if fresh, but stiff and dry if old. Green
geese are in season from May or June, till they are three
months old. A stubble goose will be good till five or six
months old, and should be picked dry; but green geese
should be scalded. The same rules will hold good for wild
geese, with respect to their being young or old.
Ducks.
THE legs of a fresh-killed duck are limber ; and if it is fat,
its belly wiil be hard and thick. The feet of a stale duck are
dry and stiff. The feet of a tame duck are inclining to a
duSlcy yellow, and are thick. The feet of a wild duck are
smaller than a tame one, and are of a reddish colour. Ducks
must be picked dry ; but ducklings should be scalded.
Pheasants.
THESE very beautiful birds are of the English cock and.
hen kind, and are of a fine flavour. The cock has spurs,
which the hen has not, and the hen is most valued when with
egg. The spurs of a young cock pheasant are short and
blunt, or round ; but if old, they are long and sharp. If the
vent of the hen be open and green, she is stale ; and when
rubbed hard with the finger, the skin will peel : if with egg,
the vent will be soft.
Woodcocks.
A WOODCOCK is a bird of passage, and is found with us only
in the winter. They are best about a fortnight or three week
MARKETING. 15
after their first appearance, when they have rested after their
Jong passage over the ocean. If fat, they will feel firm and
thick, which is a proof of their good condition. Their vent
will be also thick and hard, and a vein of fat will run by the
side of the breast ; but a lean one will feel thin in the vent.
If newly killed, its feet will be limber, and the head and
throat clean ; but the contrary, if stale.
Partridges.
AUTUMN is the season for partridges, when, if young, the
legs will be yellowish, and the bill of a dark colour. If they
are fresh, the vent will be firm ; but if stale, it will look green-
ish, and the skin will peel when rubbed with the finger. If
old, the bill will be. white, and the legs blue.
Bustards.
THE same rules given for the choice of the turkey, will
hold good with respect to this curious bird.
Pigeons.
THESE birds are full and fat at the vent, and limber-footed,
when new ; but if the toes are harsh, the vent loose, open,
and green, they are stale. If old, their legs will be large and
red. The tame pigeon is preferable to the wild, and should
be large in the body, fat and tender ; but the wild pigeon is
not so fat. Wood pigeons are larger than wild pigeons, but
in other respects like them. The same rules will hold good
in the choice of the plover, fieldfare, thrush, lark, black-
bird, &c.
Hares.
BOTH the age and freshness of a hare are to be considered
in the choice of it. When old, the claws are blunt and rug-
ged, the ears dry and tough, and the cleft wide and large;
but on the contrary, if the claws are smooth and sharp, the
ears tear easily, and the cleft in the lip is not much spread, it
is young. The body will be stiff, and the flesh pale, if newly
killed ; but if the flesh is turning black, and the body limber,
it is stale; though hares are not always considered as the worse
for being kept till they smell a little. The principal distinc-
tion between a hare and a leveret, is, that the leveret should
have a knob, or small bone, near the foot, on its foreleg, which
a hare has not.
Rabbits.
THE claws of an old rabbit are very rough and long, and
grey hairs are intermixed with the wool ; but the wool and
16 MARKETING.
claws are smooth, when young. If stale, it will be limber, and
the flesh will look bluish, with a kinJ of slime upon it; but it
will be stiff, and the flesh white and dry, if fresh.
fish.
THE general rules for discovering whether fish a; ';esh or
stale, are by observing the colour of their gills, whic hould
be of a lively red ; whether they are hard or easy to be open-
ed, the standing out or sinking in of their eyes, the r ^ ns
being st'ff or limber, or by smelling to their gills F sii taken
in running water are always better than those taken from
ponds.
Turbot.
IF a turbot is g "od, it will be thick and plump, and the
belly of a yellowish white; but they are not good, if they
appear thin and bluish. Turbot are in season the greater
part of the summer, and are generally caught in the German
and British Ocean.
Soles.
GOOD soles are thick and firm, and the belly of a fine
cream-colour ; but they are not good, if they are flabby,
or incline to a bluish white. Midsummer is their principal
season.
Lobsters.
IF^ lobster is fresh, the tail will be stiff', and pull up with
a spring; but if stale, the tail will be flabby, and have no
spring in it. This rule, however, concerns- lobsters that are
boiled ; and it is much better to buy them alive, and boil
them yourself, taking cave that they are not spent by too long
keeping. If they have not been long taken, the claws will
have a quick and strong motion upon squeezing the eyes,
and the heaviest are esteemed the best. '\ he cock-lobster is
known by the narrow back part of his tail. The two upper-
most fins within his tail arestiflFand hard ; but those of the
hen are soft, and the tail broader. The male, though gene-
rally smaller than the female, has the higher flavour, the flesh
firmer, and the body of a redder colour, when boiled.
Sturgeon.
THE flesh of a good sturgeon is very white, with a few
blue veins, the grain even, the skin tender, good-coloured,
and soft. All the veins and gristles should be blue ; for when
these are brown or yellow, the skin harsh, tough, and dry, the
MARKETING. If
fish is bad. It has a pleasant smell when good, but a very
disagreeable one when bad. It should also cut firm without
crumbling. The females are as full of roe as our carp, which
is taken out and spread upon a table, beat flat, and sprinkled
with salt ; it is then dried in the air and sun, and afterwards
in ovens: it should be of a reddish brown colour, and
very dry. This is called caviare, and is eaten with oil and
vinegar.
Cod.
A COD should be very thick at the neck, the flesh very white
and firm, and of a bright clear colour, and the gills red.
When they are flabby, they are not good. They are in
season from Christmas to Lady-day.
Skate.
THIS fish should be very' white and thick. When they
are too fresh, they eat tough ; and if stale, they have a very
disagreeable smell : so that some judgment is required to dress
them in proper time.
Herrings.
THE gills of a fresh herring are of a fine red, their eyes
full, and the whole fish stiff and very bright ; but if the gills
are of a faint colour, the fish limber and wrinkled, they are
bad. The goodness of pickled herrings is known by their
being fat, fleshy, and white. Good red herrings are large,
firm, and dry. They should be full of roe or milt, and the
outside of them of a fine yellow.
* Trout.
ALL the kinds of this fine fresh-water fish are excellent :
but the best are those that are red and yellow. The female
are most in esteem, and are known by having a smaller head
and deeper body than the male. They are high in season
the latter end of June ; and their freshness may be known by
the rule we have already laid down for that purpose, con-
cerning other fish.
Tench.
THIS is also a fresh-water fish, and is in season in July,
August, and September. This fish should be dressed alive ;
but if they be dead, examine their gills, which should be red,
and hard to open, the eyes bright, and the body firm and
stiff 7 , if fresh. Some are covered with a slimy matter, which,
if clear and bright, is a good sign.
c
18 MARKETING.
Salmon.
THE flesh of salmon, when new, is of a fine red, and par-
ticularly so at the gills ; the scales should be bright, and the
fish very stiff. The spring is the season for this fish ; but
whether that caught in the Thames, or the Severn, be best, is
a matter of some dispute.
Smelts.
WHEN perfectly fresh they are of a fine silver hue,
very firm, and have an agreeable smell, resembling that of a
cucumber.
Eels.
THE Thames silver eel is generally the most esteemed ;
and the worst are those brought by the Dutch, and sold at
Billingsgate market. They should be dressed alive ; and they
are always in season? except during the hot summer months.
Flounders.
THIS fish is found in the sea as well as rivers, and should
be dressed alive. They are in season from January to March,
and from July to September. When fresh, they are stiff',
their eyes bright and full, and their bodies thick.
Oysters.
THE Colchester, Pyfleet, and Milford oysters, are esteemed
the best: though the native Milton are reckoned very good,
being the fattest and whitest. They are known to be alive
and vigorous when they close fast upon the knife, and let go
as soon as they are wounded in the body.
Prawns and Shrimps.
THEY have an excellent smell when in perfection ; are firm
and stiff, and their tails turn stiffly inwards. Their colour is
very bright, when fresh; but when stale, their tails grow
Umber, the brightness of their colour goes off, and they be-
come pale and clammy.
Butter.
IN buying of butter, you must not trust to the taste the
seller gives you, lest he give you a taste of one lump, and sell
you another. In choosing salt butter, trust rather to your
smell than taste, by putting a knife into it, anil applying it to
your nose. If the butter be in a cask, have it unhooped, and
thrust in your knife, between the staves, into the middle of
it ; for the top of the cask is sometimes better butter than the
middle, owing to artful package.
TRUSSING. 19
Cheese.
OBSERVE the coat of your cheese before you purchase it;
for if it be old, with a rough and ragged coat, or dry at top,
you may expect to find little worms or mites in it. If it is
moist, spongy, or full of holes, it will give reason to suspect
that it is maggoty. Whenever you perceive any perished
places on the outside, be sure to probe to the bottom of
them ; for, though the hole in the coat may be but small, the
perished part within may be considerable.
Eggs.
To judge properly of an egg, put the greater end to your
tongue, and if it feel warm it is new ; but if cold, it is stale ;
and according to the degree of heat or cold there is in the egg,
you will judge of its staleness or newness. AnotrTer method
is, hold it up against the sun or candle, and if the yolk appear
round and the white clear and fair, it is a mark of goodness ;
but if the yolk be broken, and the white cloudy or muddy,
the egg is a bad one. Some people, in order to try the good-
ness of an egg, put it into a pan of Cold water : the fresher it
is, the sooner it will sink to the bottom ; but if it be addled or
rotten, it will swim on the surface of the water. The best
method of preserving eggs is to keep them in meal or bran ;
though some place them in wood-ashes, with their small end
downwards. -When necessity obliges you to keep them for
any length of time, the best way will be to bury them in salt,
which will preserve them in almost any climate ; but the
sooner an egg is used, the better it will be.
CHAPTER II.
DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
HOUGH the London poulterers truss every thing before they
nd it home, yet it is absolutely necessary that every COOK
T.
send
should know how to perform this business properly, as it
frequently happens that families take their cooks with them
into the country, where they are obliged to draw and truss all
kinds of poultry and game themselves. Let them therefore
be careful to attend to this general rule ; take care that 'all the
stubs are perfectly removed ; and when they draw any kind
c 2
20 TRUSSING.
of poultry or game, they must be very particular not to break
the gall, because it will give the bird a bitter and disagree-
able flavour, which neither washing nor wiping will be able to
remove. We shall now proceed to particular rules.
Turkeys.
WHEN you have properly picked your turkey, break the
kg-bone close to the foot, and draw out the strings from the
thigh, for Vhich purpose you must put it on a hook fastened
against the wall. Cut off the neck close to the back ; but be
careful to leave the orop skin sufficiently long to turn over to
the back. Then proceed to take out the crop, and loosen
the liver and gut at the throat end with your middle finger.
Then cut off the vent, and take out the gut. With a crooked
sharp-pointed iron pull out the gizzard, and the liver will soon
follow. Be careful, however, not to break the gall. With a
wet cloth wipe out the inside perfectly clean. With a large
knife cut the breast-bone through on each side close to the
back, and draw the legs close to the crop. Then put a
cloth on the breast, and beat the high bone down with a rolU
ing-pin till it lies flat. If the turkey is to be trussed for boil-
ing cut the legs off; then put your middle finger into the in-
side, raise the skin of the legs, and put them under the apron
of the turkey. Put a skewer in the joint of the wing and the
middle joint of the leg, and run it through the body and the
other leg and wing. The liver and gizzard must be put in the
pinions; but take care first to open the gizzard, and take out
the filth and the gall of the liver. Then turn the small end
of the pinion on the back, and tie a packthread over the ends
of the legs to keep them in their places. If the turkey is to
be roasted, leave the legs on, put a skewer in the joint of the
wing, tuck the legs close up, and put the skewer through the
middle of the leg and body. On the other side put another
skewer in at the small part of the leg. Put it close on the
outside of the sidesman, and put the skewer through, and the
same on the other side. Put the liver and gizzard between the
pinions, and turn the point of the pinion on the back. Then
put, close above the pinions, another skewer through the
body of the turkey.
TRUSSING. 2 1
Turkey polts must be trussed in the following manner :
Take the neck from the head and body, but do not remove
the neck skin. They are drawn in the same manner as a
turkey. Put a skewer through the joint of the pinion, tuck
the legs close, run the skewer through the middle of the leg,
through the body, and so on the other side. Cut off the un-
der part of the bill, twist the skin of the neck round, and put
the head on the point of the skewer, with the bill end for-
wards. Another skewer must be put in the sidesman, and the
legs placed between the sidesman and apron on each side.
Pass the skewer through all, and cut off the toe-nails. It is
very common to lard them on the breast. The liver and
gizzard may or may not be used, as you like.
Geese.
HAVING picked and stubbed your goose clean, cut the feet
off at the joint, and the pinion off at the first joint. Then cut
off the neck close to the back ; but leave the skin of the neck
long enough to turn over the back. Pull out the throat, and
tie a knot at the end. With your middle finger loosen the
liver and other matters at the breast end, and cut it open be-
tween the vent and the rump. Having done this, draw out all
the entrails, excepting the soal. Wipe it out clean with a wet
cloth, and beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin. Put a
skewer into the wing, and draw the legs close up. Put the
skewer through the middle of the leg, and through the body,
and the same on the other side. Put another skewer in the
small of the leg, tuck it close down to the sidesman, run it
through, and do the same on the other side. Cut off the end
of the vent, and make a hole large enough for the passage of
the rump, as it holds the seasoning much better by
means.
22 TRUSSING.
Ducks.
DUCKS and Geese are trussed in the same manner, ex-
cepting that the feet are left on the ducks, and are turned
close to the legs.
Fowls.
THEY must first be picked very clean, and the neck cut off
close to the back. Then take out the crop, and with your
middle finger loosen the liver and other matters. Cut off the
vent, draw it clean, and beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-
pin. If your fowl is to be boiled, cut off the nails of the feet,
and tuck them down close to the leg. Put your finger into the
inside, and raise the skin of the legs ; then cut a hole in the
top of the skin, and put the legs under. Put a skewer in the
first joint of the pinion, bring the middle of the leg close to
it, put the skewer through the middle of the leg, and through
the body. Do the same on the other side. Having opened
the gizzard, take out the filth, and the gall out of the liver.
Put the gizzard and the liver in the pinions, and turn the point
on the back. Remember to tie a string over the tops of the
legs, to keep them in their proper place. If your fowl is to be
roasted, put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, and
bring the middle of the leg close to it. Put the skewer through
the middle of the leg, and through the body, and do the same
on the other side. Put another skewer in the small of the leg,
and through the sidesman. Do the same on the other side.
Put another skewer through the skin of the feet. You must
not forget that the nails are to be cut off.
TRUSSING. 23
Chickens.
THESE must be picked and drawn in the same manner as
fowls. If the chickens are to be boiled, cut off the nails,
give the sinews a nick on each side of the joint, put the feet
in at the vent, and then put in the rump. Draw the skin tight
over the legs, put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, and
bring the middle of the leg close. Put the skewer through
the middle of the legs, and through the body, and do the same
on the other side. Clean the gizzard, and take out the gall
in the liver ; put them into the pinions, and turn the points
on the back. If your chickens are to be roasted, cut off the
feet, put a skewer in the first joint of the pinions, and bring
the middle of the leg close. Run the skewer through the
middle of the leg, and through the body, and do the same on
the other side. Put another skewer into the sidesman, put
the legs between the apron and the sidesman, and run the
skewer through. Having cleaned the liver and gizzard, put
them in the pinions, turn the points on the back and over
the neck, and pull the breast skin.
Wild Fowl.
THE directions we are giving will answer for all kinds of
wild fowl in general. Having picked them clean, cut off the
neck close to the back, and with your middle finger loosen
the liver and guts next the breast. Cut off the pinions at the
first joint, then cut a slit between the vent and the rump, and
draw them clean. Clean them properly with the long feathers
on the wing, cut off the nails, and turn the feet close to the
legs. Put a skewer into the pinions, pull the legs close to
the breast, and run the skewer through the legs, body, and
the other pinion. First cut off the vent, and then put the
rump through it.
Pigeons.
You must first pick them, and cut off the neck close to the
back. Then take out the crop, cut off the vent, and draw out
24 TRUSSING.
the guts and gizzard, but leave in the liver, for a pigeon has no
gall. If your pigeons are to be roasted, cut off the toes, cut
a slit in one of the legs, and put the other through it. Draw
the leg tight lo the pinion, put a skewer through the pinions,
legs, and body, and with the handle of.a knife break the breast
flat. Clean the gizzard, put it in one of the pinions, and turn
the point on the back. If you intend to make a pie of them,
you must cut the feet off at the joint, turn the legs, and stick
them in the sides close to the pinions. If they are to be
stewed or boiled, they must be done in the same manner.
Woodcocks and Sniper.
THESE birds are very tender to pick, especially if they be
not quite fresh. They must therefore be handled as little as
possible, for even the heat of the hand will sometimes pull
off the skin, when the beauty of your bird will be destroyed.
When you have picked them clean, cut the pinions off at the
first joint, and with the handle of a knife beat the breast-bone
flat. Turn the legs close to the thighs, and tie them together
at the joints. Put the thighs close to the pinions, put a skewer
into the pinion, and run it through the thighs, body, and the
other pinion. Skin the head, turn it, take out the eyes and
put the head on the point of the skewer with the bill close to
the breast. Woodcocks, snipes, or plovers, are trussed in the
same nrtgpfiner, but must never be drawn.
'-
Larks, Wheat-ears, Kc.
WHRN you have picked them clean, cut off their heads,
and the pinions at the first joint. Beat the breast-bone flat
with the handle of a knife, turn the feet close to the legs, and
put one into the other. Draw out the gizzard, and run a
skewer through the middle of the bodies of as many as you
mean to dress. They must be tied on the spit.
Pheasants and Partridges.
PICK them very clean, cut a slit at the back of the neck,
take out the crop, and loosen the liver and gut next the breast
TRUSSING. 25
with your fore-finger, then cut off the vent and draw them.
Cut oft the pinion at the first joint, and wipe out the inside
with the pinion you have cut off; for you never need pick
these birds beyond U^e first joint of the pinion. With a roll-
ing-pin beat the breast-bone flat, put a skewer in the pinion,
and bring the middle of the legs close. Then run the skewer
through the legs, body, and the other pinion; bring the head,
and put it on the end of the skewer, the bill fronting the breast.
Put another skewer into the sidesman, and put the legs close
on each side the apron, and then run the skewer through all.
You must leave the beautiful feathers on the head of the cock
pheasant, and put paper to prevent the bad effects of the fire.
You must also save the long feathers in the tajl to stick in the
rump when roasted. In the same manner are trussed all kinds
of moor-game. If they are to be boiled, put the legs in the
manner as in trussing a fowl for boiling.
Hares.
.HAVING cut off the four legs at the first joint, raise the skin
of the back, and draw it over the hind legs. Leave the tail
whole, draw the skin over the hack, and slip out the fore legs.
Cut the skin off the neck and head; but take care to leave the
ears on, and mind to skin them. Take out the liver, lights, &c.
but be sure to take the gut out of the vent. Cut the sinews
that lie under the hind legs, bring them up to the fore legs,
put a skewer through the hind leg, then through the foreleg
under the joint, run it through the body, and do the same on
lie other side. Put another skewer through the thick part of
te hind legs and body, put the head between the shoulders,
ard run a skewer through to keep it in its place. Pur askewer
inachear to make them stand erect, and tie a string round
the middle of the body over the legs to keep them in their
pla<. You may truss a young fawn in the same manner,
only-mind to cut off the ears.
26 BOILING.
Rabbits.
RABBITS are to be cased ih the same manner as hares, only
observe to cut off the ears close to the head. Cut the vent
open, and slit the legs about an inch upon each side the rump.
Make the hind legs Jie flat, and bring the ends to the fore legs.
Put a skewer in the hind leg, then in the fore leg and through
the body. Bring the head round, and put it on the skewer.
If you want to roast two together, truss them at full length,
with six skewers run through them both, so that they may be
properly fastened upon the spit.
CHAPTER III.
_
BOILING.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
-TN FATNESS being a most material requisition in a kitchen, the
cook should be particularly cautious to keep all the utensils
perfectly clean, and the pots and saucepans properly tinned.
In boiling any kind of meat, but particularly veal, much care
and nicety are required. Fill your pot with a sufficient quan-
tity of soft water; dust your veal well with fine flour, put it
into your pot, and set it over a large fire. It is" the custom
with some people to put in milk to make it white ; but this if
of no use, and perhaps better omitted ; for, if you use har
water, it will curdle the milk, give to the veal a brownisl-
yellow cast, and will often hang in lumps about it. Oatmal
will do the same thing ; but by dusting your veal, and puttng
it into the water when cold, it will prevent the foulness of the
water from hanging upon it. Take the scum off clear as.oon
as it begins to rise, and cover up the pot closely. Le- the
meat boil as slowly as possible, put in plenty of water, */hich
will make your veal rise and look plump. A cook Cannot
make a greater mistake, than to let any sort of meat b>il fast,
since it hardens the outside before it is warm within, fld con-
tributes to discolour it. Thus a leg of veal, of twelv--pounds
weight, will take three hours and a half boiling ; and the
slower it boils, the whiter and plumper it will be. Vhen mut-
BOILING. 21
ton or beef is the object of your cookery, be careful to dredge
them well with flour, before you put them into the pot of
cold water, and keep it covered ; but do not forget to take
off the scum as often as it rises. Mutton and beef do not re-
quire so much boiling; nor is it much minded if it be a little
under the mark; but lamb, pork, and veal, should be well
boiled, as they will otherwise be unwholesome. A leg of
pork will take half an hour more boiling than a leg of veal
of the same weight; but, in general, when you boil beef or
mutton, you may allow an hour for every four pounds weight.
To put in the meat when the water is cold, is allowed to be
the best method, as it thereby gets warm to the heart before
the outside gets hard. To boil a leg of lamb, of four pounds
\)'eight, you must allow an hour and a half.
Grass Lamb,
So many pounds as the joint weighs, so many quarters of
an hour it must boil. Serve it up with spinach, carrots, cab-
bage, or brocoli.
Calf's Head. '
WASH it very clean, soak it in water for two hours, then
parboil one half ; beat up the yolk of an egg, and rub it over
the head with a feather ; then strew over it a seasoning of pep-
per, salt, thyme, parsley chopped small, shred lemon-peel,
grated bread, and a little nutmeg ; stick bits of butter over it,
and send it to the oven. Boil the other half white in a cloth ;
put them both .into a dish Boil the brains in a bit of cloth,
with a very little parsley, and a leaf or two of sage. When
they are boiled, chop them small, and warm them in a sauce-
pan, with a bit of butter, and a little pepper and salt. Lay
the tongue, boiled and peeled, in the middle of a small dish,
and the brains round it ; have, in another dish, bacon or
pickled pork ; greens or carrots in another.
To boil Veal like Sturgeon.
TAKE a small delicate fillet of veal, from a cow-calf; take
off the skin, and then lard it all over, top, bottom, and sides
with some bacon and ham. Put into a stevvpan some slices of
bacon and veal ; strew over them some pepper, salt, and sweet
herbs; then put in the fillet with as-much broth as will just
cover them. Cover the stewpan very close, and let them sim-
mer very gently. When the veal is nearly enough, put in a
pint of white wine, an onion shred, a few cloves, and a little
mace ; put on the cover of the stewpau, set it over a stove,
and lay some charcoal upon it. When it has been kept hot
ten minutes, take it off the fire, and remove the charcoal. If
it is intended to be eaten hot, the following sauce must be
2S BOILING.
made while it is stewing. Set on a saucepan, with a glass of
gravy, a glass and a half of vinegar, half a lemon sliced, a
large onion sliced, and a good deal of pepper and salt. Boil
this a few minutes, and strain it. Lay the meat in a dish, and
pour the sauce over it. If it is to be eaten cold, it must not
be taken out of the liquor it is stewed in, but set by to cool
all night, and it will be exceedingly good.
Haunch or Neck of Venison.
HAVING let it lie in salt for a week, boil it in a cloth well
floured ; and allow a quarter of an hour's boiling for every
pound it weighs. For sauce, you may boil some cauliflowers^
pulled into Tittle sprigs, in milk and water, with some fine
white cabbage, and some turnips cut in dice, add some beet-
root cut into narrow pieces, about an inch and a half long, and
half an inch thick. Lay a sprig of cauliflower, and some of
the turnips mashed with some cream and a little butter. Let
your cabbage be boiled, and then beat in a saucepan with a
piece of butter and salt. Lay that next the cauliflower, then
the turnips, then the cabbage, and so on till the dish be full.
Place the beet-root here and there, according to your taste.
Have a little melted butter. This is a very fine dish, and
looks very prettily.
The haunch or neck, thus dressed, eats well the next day
hashed with gravy and sweet sauce.
Hams.
PUT your ham into a copper of cold water, and when it
boils, take care that it boils slowly. A ham of twenty pounds
will take four hours and a half boiling : and so in proportion
for one of a larger or smaller size. No soaking is required
for a green ham ; but an old and large ham will require six-
teen hours soaking in water, after which it should lie on damp
stones, sprinkled with water, two or three days to mellow.
Observe to keep the pot well skimmed while your ham is
boiling. When you take it up, pull oft' the skin as whole as
possible, and save it ; and strew on it raspings. When the ham
is brought from table, put the skin upon it, which will pre-
serve it moist.
Another way of dressing a Ham.
HAVING put the ham in a copper as before, add two pounds
of veal : after boiling a quarter of an hour, add celery, three
heads ; young onions one handful, or one old one ; thyme
and sweet-marjorum, a small quantity; t\yo turnips; winter
savory, one handful ; one or two eschalots ; and boil as be-
fore, till sufficiently tender. The broth will form a valuable
present to poor families.
BOILING. 29
Tongues.
STEEP the tongue in water all night, if it be a dry one ;
but if it be a pickled one, only wash it out of water. Boil it
three hour*.
Pickled Pork.
HAVING washed your pork, and scraped it clean, let it lie
half an hour in cold water, put it in when the water is cold,
and let it boil till the rind be tender.
Leg of Mutton with Cauliflowers and Spinach.
Cur a leg of mutton venison fashion, and boil it in a cloth :
boil three or four cauliflowers in milk and water, pull them into
sprigs, and stew them with butter, pepper, salt, and a little
milk ; stew some spinach in a saucepan; put to the spinach a
quarter of a pint of gravy, a piece of butter, and flower.
When it is enough, put the mutton in the middle* the spinach
round it, and the cauliflower over all. The butter the cauli-
flower was stewed in must be poured over it, and it must be
melted like a smooth cream.
Chickens.
PUT your chickens into scalding water, and as soon as the
feathers will slip off, take them out, otherwise they will make
the skin hard. After you have drawn them, lay them in skim-
med milk for two hours, and then truss them with their heads
on their wings. When you have properly singed, and dusted
them with flour, cover them close in cold water, and set them
over a slow fire. Having taken off the scum, and boiled them
slowly for five or six minutes, take them off the fire, and keep
them close covered for half an hour in the water, which will
stew them sufficiently, and make them plump and white.
Before you dish them, set them on the fire to heat ; then
drain them, and pour over them white sauce. See Sauces.
Fowls.
PLUCK your fowls, draw them at the rump, and cut off the
head, neck, and legs. Take out the breast-bone carefully;
and having skewered them with the ends of their legs in their
bodies, tie them round with a string. Singe and dust them
well with flour, put them into cold water, cover the kettle
close, and set it on the fire; but take it off as soon as the
scum begins to rise. Cover them close again, and let them
boil twenty minutes very slowly. Then take them off, and
'he heat of the water, in half an hour, will stew them suffi-
30 BOILING.
ciently. Then treat them in the same manner as above di-
rected for chickens, though melted butter is as often used as
white sauce.
Turkeys.
A TURKEY should not be fed the day before it is to be
killed ; but give it a spoonful of allegar just before you kill it,
and it will make it white and tender. Let it hang by the legs
four or five days after it is killed ; and when you have plucked
it, draw it at the rump. Cut off the legs, put the end of the
thighs into the body, and skewer them clown, and tic them
with a string. Having cut off the head and neck, grate a
penny Joaf, chop fine a score of oysters at least, shred a little
lemon-peel, and put in a sufficient quantity of salt, pepper,
and nutmeg. Mix these up into a light forcemeat, with a
quarter of a pound of butter, three eggs, a spoonful or two of
cream, and stuff the craw with part of it ; the rest must be
made into balls, and boiled. Having sewed up the turkey,
and dredged it well with flour, put it into a kettle of cold
water ; cover it, and set it over the fire, and take the scum
off as soon as it begins to rise, and cover it again. It must
boil very slowly for half an hour; then take off your kettle,
and let it stand close covered. A middling turkey will take
half an hour to stand in the hot water, and the steam being-
confined will sufficiently stew it. When you dish it up, pour
a little of your oyster-sauce over it, lay your balls round it,
and serve it up, with the rest of your sauce in a boat. Bar-
berries and lemon will be a proper garnish. Set it over the
fire, and make it quite hot before you dish it up.
Geese.
SALT a goose a week, and boil it an hour. Serve it up with
onion sauce, or cabbage boiled or stewed in butter.
Another way.
SINGE a goose, and pour over it a quart of boiling milk.
Let it lie in it all night, then take it out, and dry it well with
a cloth. Cut small a large onion and some sage, put them into
the goose, sew it up at the neck and vent, hang it up by the
legs till next day, then put it into a pot of cold water, cover it
close, and let it boil softly for an hour. Onion sauce.
A smoked Goose.
TAKE a large stubble goose, take off the fat, dry it well
inside and " out with a cloth ; wash it all over with vinegar,
and then rub it over with some common salt, salt-petre, and
BOILING. 31
A quarter of a pound of coarse sugar. Rub the salts well in,
and let it lay a fortnight; then drain it well-, sew it up in a
cloth, and dry it in the middle of a chimney. It should hang
a month. Serve it up with onions, greens, &c.
Ducks.
As soon as you have scalded and drawn your ducks, let
them remain for a few minutes in warm water, then take them
out, put them into an earthen pan, and pour a pint of boiling
milk over them. Let them lie in it two or three hours/ and
when you take them out, dredge them well with flour; put
them into a copper of cold water, and cover them up. Hav-
ing boiled slowly about twenty minutes, take them out, and
smother them with onion sauce.
Pigeons.
SCALD and draw your pigeons, and take out the craAv as
clean as possible. Wash them in several waters ; and having
cut off their pinions, turn their legs under their wings; dredge
them, and put them into soft cold water. Having boiled them
very slowly a quarter of an hour, dish them up, and pour over
them good melted butter ; lay round them a little brocoli, and
^ervethem up with butter and parsley.
Rabbits.
CASE your rabbits ; skewer them with their heads straight
up, the fore legs brought down, and the hind legs straight.
Boil them at least three quarters of an hour, and then smother
them with onion sauce. Pull out the jaw bones, stick them in
their eyes, and serve them up with a sprig of myrtle or bar-
berries in their mouths. See Sauces.
Partridges.
BOIL them quick in a good deal of water, and fifteen mi-
nutes will be sufficient. For sauce take a quarter of a pint
of cream, and a piece of fresh butter as large as a walnut;
stir it one way till it be melted, and pour it into the dish.
Pheasants.
BOIL your pheasants in a good deal of water, and be sure
to keep it boiling. If it be a small one, half an hour will boil
it ; but if it be of the larger sort, you must allow it a quarter
of an hour longer. Let your sauce be celery stewed and
thickened with cream, and a little piece of butter rolled in
flour; and when your pheasant is done, pour your sauce over
it, and garnish with lemon. Observe so to stew your celery,
that the liquor may not be all wasted before you put in your
cream. Season with salt to your palate. See Sauces.
BOILING.
Snipes or Woodcocks.
YOUR snipes or woodcocks must be boiled in a good strong
broth $ or beef gravy, made thus: cut a pound of beef into little
^pieces, and pour on it two qiwts of water, with an onion,
a bundle of sweet herbs, a blade or two of mace, six cloves,
and some whole pepper. Cover it close, let it boil till about
half wasted, then strain it off, and put the gravy into a sauce-
pan, with salt enough to season it. Gut the birds clean, but
take care of the trails. Put them into the gravy, cover them
close, and ten minutes will boil them. In the meantime, cut
the trails and liver small, then take a little of the gravy the
snipes are boiling in, and stew the trails in it, with a blade of
mace. Fry some crumbs of bread crisp in some butter, of a
fine light brown. You must take about as much bread as the
inside of a stale roll, and rub them small into a clean cloth ;
and when they are done, let them stand ready in a plate before
the fire. When your snipes are ready, take about half a pint
of the liquor they were boiled in, and add to the trails two
spoonfuls of red wine, and a piece of butter as big as a wal-
nut, rolled in a little flour. Set them on the fire, shake your
saucepan often, (but do not stir it with a spoon) till the but-
ter is all melted. Then put in the crumbs, give the saucepan
a shake, take up your birds, lay them in the dish, and pour
your sauce over thetn. Lemon is a proper garnish.
Pig's Pettitoes.
LET the feet boil till they are pretty tender ; but take up
the heart, liver, and lights, when they have boiled ten minutes,
and shred them rather small. Take out the feet, and split
them ; thicken your gravy with flour and butter, and put in
yeur mincemeat, a little mace, a slice of lemon, a little salt,
and give it a gentle boil. Lay s'ppets round the dish, and
pour in your mincemeat, and in the centre the pettitoes.
Salmon.
HAVING scalded your salmon, take out the blood, wash the
fish well, and lay it on a fish plate. Put your water in a fish-
pan, with a little salt, and when it boils, put in your fish for
half a minute ; then take it out for a minute or two. Do this
four times, and then boil it till it be enough. When you take
it out of the fish-pan, set it over the water to drain, and cover
it with a cloth dipped in hot water. Frv a few slices of salmon,
or some small fish, and lay them round it. Scraped horse-
radish and parsley will be a proper garnish.
BOILING. 33
Soles.
THEY must be boiled in salt and water, and served up
"with anchovy sauce.
Soles the Dutch way.
TAKE a pair of large soles, skin, gut, and wash them very
clean in spring-water. Set them on in a stewpan with some
water and a little salt, and when it boils put in the soles, and
let them boil a few minutes. Then put on a saucepan with
some parsley cut small in a little water, and let it stand till
the water is all consumed. Then shake in some flour, and
put in a good piece of butter. Shake them well together till
all is well mixed, and then lay the soles, when they are drained,
upon a dish, and pour the sauce over them.
Trout.
BOIL them in vinegar, water, and salt, with a piece of horse-
radish. White sauce, anchovy saute, and plain butter.
Cod's Head.
FIRST take out the gills and the blood clean from the bone,
and wash the head well ; then rub over it a little salt, and a
glass of vinegar. Lay it on your fish-plate, and when your
water boils, throw in a large handful of salt, and a glass of
vinegar. Put in your fish, and boil it gently half an hour; but
if it be a large one, it will take three quarters. Take it up
very carefully, and see that no water or scum hang about the
fish. Garnish with a few smelts, or oysters fried, parsley,
scraped horse-radish, and lemon cut in slices, laid round it.
The roe and liver must be cut into slices, and laid close to it.
Salt Cod.
SOAK the fish six hours in soft water, then lay it on a stone
or brick floor for eight hours : if very salt, repeat the soaking
for six hours, otherwise three will be sufficient, and lay it
again on the floor for two. Brush it well with a moderately
hard brush, and boil gently in soft water. Serve in a napkin.
Thus dressed it will swell considerably, and come off in fine
flakes. Serve with egg sauce, mashed potatoes, and par-
snips.
Cod Sounds.
SOAK them in warm water half an hour, then scrape and
clean ; boil in milk and water till tender. Serre in a napkin,
with egg sauce.
D
34 BOILING.
Turbot.
YOUR turbot must be washed clean. Rub some vinegar
over it, which will add to its firmness, Put it on your fish-
plate, with the white side upwards, and pin a cloth over it
tight under your plate, which will prevent its breaking. Boil
it gently in hard water with plenty of salt and vinegar, and
skim it well, which will prevent the skin being discoloured ;
and when enough, take it up and drain it. Take the cloth
off carefully, and slip the fish on your dish ; garnish with
double parsley, lemon, and horse-radish. The proper sauces,
are lobster, anchovy, and plain butter. See Sauces.
Turbot boiled with Capers.
WASH and dry a small turbot, then take some thyme, pars-
ley, sweet herbs, and an onion sliced. Put them into a stew-
pan, then lay in the turbot, (the stewpan should be just big
enough to hold the fish.) Strew over the fish the same herbs
that are under it, with some chives and sweet basil. Then
pour in an equal quantity of white wine and white wine vine-
gar, till the fish is covered. Strew in a little bay salt, with
some whole pepper ; set the stewpan over a gentle stove, in-
creasing the heat by degrees, till it be enough. Then take it
off the fire, but do not take the turbot out. Set a saucepan on
the fire with a pound of butter, two anchovies split, boned and
washed, two large spoonfuls of capers cut small, some chives
whole, and a little pepper, salt, some nutmeg grated, a little
flour, a spoonful of vinegar, and a little water. Set the sauce-
pan over the stove, and keep shaking it round for some time,
and then set the turbot on to make it hot. Put it in a dish,
and pour some of the sauce over it ; lay some horse-radish
round it, and put what remains of the sauce in a boat.
Pike.
GUT and gill your pike, and having washed it well, make
a good forcemeat of chopped oysters, crumb of bread, a little
lemon-peel shred fine, a lump of butter, the yolks of two eggs,
a few sweet herbs, and season them to your taste with salt,
pepper, and nutmeg. Mix all these well together, and put
them into the belly of the fish, which must be sewed up, and
skewered round. It must be boiled in hard water, with a
little salt, and a tea-cup full of vinegar put into the fish-pan.
Put in the fish as soon as the water boils, and if it be of the
middling size, half an hour's boiling will be sufficient. Serve
it up with oyster sauce in a boat. Use pickled barberries ami
parsley for a garnish.
BOILING. 35
Sturgeon.
LAY as large a piece as you please of your fish all night in
salt water, having first taken care to wash it clean. Take it
out the next morning, and rub it well with vinegar, and let it
lie in it two hours. Put your sturgeon into the fish-kettle
when full of boiling water, and throw in an ounce of bay-salt,
a few sprigs of sweet marjorum, and two large onions. When
you perceive the bones begin to leave the fish, take it up, and
strip off the skin ; then flour it well ; put it before the fire, and
having basted it with fresh butter, let it stand till it be of a
fine brown. When you dish it up, you must make use of the
white sauce. Crisp parsley and red pickles, for garnish. See
Sauces.
MackareL
WHEN you have gutted your mackarel, dry them carefully
in a clean cloth, and gently rub them over with vinegar. Lay
them on your fish-plate, and handle them as little as possible,
as they are liable to break. Put them into your fish-pan when
your water boils, put in a little salt, and let them boil gently
about a quarter of an hour. When you take them up, drain
them well, and serve them with fennel and parsley sauces.
Your fish must be dished up with their tails in the middle,
;>nd scraped horse-radish and barberries will serve as garnish.
Flat Fish.
UNDER this article we include flounders, plaice, and the
various species of flat fish of that tribe. First cut off the fins,
nick the brown side under the head, and take out the guts.
Dry them with a cloth, and boil them in salt and water. Gar-
nish them with parsley, and serve them up either with shrimp,
cockle, or anchovy sauce.
Herrings.
SCALE, gut, and wash them, clean and dry them, and rub
them over with a little salt and vinegar. Skewer their tails in
their mouths, and lay them on your fish-plate. Put them in
when the water boils, and in about ten or twelve minutes take
them up. Let them drain properly, and then turn their heads
into the middle of the dish. Use parsley and butter for sauce,
and garnish with scraped horse-radish.
Perch.
WHEN you have scaled, gutted, and washed your fish, put
it into the water when it boils, with some salt, an onion cut
into slices, and separated into round rings, a handful of parsley
D2
36 ROASTING.
clean picked and washed, and as much milk as will turn the
water. Put the fish into a soup dish as soon as it is enough,
and pour a little of the water, and the parsley and the onions,
over it. It may be served up with butter and parsley in a
boat, and with or without onions, as you choose. The same
methgd may be observed in boiling a trout.
Eels.
HAVING skinned, gutted, and taken the blood out of your
eels, cut off their heads, dry them, and turn them round on
your fish-plate. Boil them in salt ami water, and serve them
up with parsley sauce, and anchovy sauce.
Mullets.
BOIL them in salt and water ; when they are enough, pour
avray part of the water, and put to the rest a gill of red wine,
sonje salt and vinegar, two onions sliced, with a bunch of
sweet herbs, some nutmeg, beaten mace, and the juice of a
lemon. Boil these well together, with two or three anchovies.
Then 'put ifc the fish, and when they have simmered in it
some time, put them into a dish, and strain the sauce ore 1 '
them. Shrimps or oysters may be added.
CHAPTER IV.
ROASTING.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
I: UT a little salt and water into the dripping-pan, and with it
baste the meajs a little. When dry, dredge well with flour,
and baste with fresh butter ; because it will give a better
colour to your meat. The fire should be regulated accord-
ing to the thing to be dressed : if very little or thin, then you
should have a pretty brisk fire, that it may be done quickly
and nicely ; if a large joint, take care, that a large fire is
laid on to cake. The fire must be always clear at the bot-
tom ; and when the meat is half done, move the dripping-parr
and spit a little from the fire, and stir it up, to make it burn
clear and brisk ; for a good fire is a material thing in the bu-
siness of cookery. If you are roasting beef, take care to
paper the top, and baste well while a the fire, not forgetting
to sprinkle some salt on it. When the smoke draws to the
ROASTING. 37
fire, it is a sign that it is nearly enough ; and then take off
the paper, baste well, and dredge with flour, to make it
frothy ; but never salt your meat before you lay it to the fire,
as that will draw out part of the gravy. In roasting mutton or
lamb, the loin, the chine, and the saddle, must have the skin
raised and skewered on, and when nearly done, take off the
skin, and baste and flour, to froth it up. All other sorts .of
mutton and lamb must be roasted with a quick clear fire, with-
out the skin being raised. You must be careful to roast veal
of a fine brown ; and if it be a fillet or loin, be sure to paper
the fat, that you may lose as little of it as possible. At first
keep it at some distance from the fire, but when it is soaked,
put it nearer. When you lay it down, baste well with but-
ter ; and when nearly done, baste again, and dredge with a
little flour. The breast must be roasted with the caul on, till
the meat be enough done, and skewer the sweetbread on the
back side of the breast. When sufficiently roasted, take off
the caul, baste it, and dredge a little flour over it. Pork
should be well done, or it will otherwise be apt to surfeit.
When you roast a loin, cut the skin across with a sharp knife,
in order to make the crackling eat the better. When you
roast a leg of pork, score it in the same manner as the loin,
and stuff the knuckle part with sage and onion, and skewer it
up. Put a little drawn gravy in the dish, and send it up with
apple-sauce in a tureen. The spring, or hand of pork, if very
young, and roasted like a pig, eats very well ; but, otherwise,
it is much better boiled. The sparerib should be basted with
a little butter, a very little dust of flour, and some sage and
onions shred small. Apple sauce is the only sauce made for
this joint. Wildfowls require a clear brisk fire, and should
be roasted till they are of a light brown, but not too much ;
for it is a great fault to roast them till the gravy runs out of
fhem, as they thereby lose their fine flavour. Tame fowls
require more roasting, as they are a long time before they get
thoroughly heated. ' They should be often basted, in order to
keep up a strong froth, and as it makes them of a finer colour,
and rise better. Pigs and geese should be roasted before a
good fire, and turned quickly. Hares and rabbits require time
and care, to see the ends are roasted enough. In order to
prevent their appearing bloody at the neck when they are
cut up, cut the neck skin, when they are half roasted, and let
out the blood. Having thus premised these general rules for
roasting, we shall now proceed to particulars.
A Fore Quarter of House Lamb.
HOUSE lamb requires to be well roasted. A small fore-
quarter will take an hour and a half; a leg, three quarters of
no ASH:-.
an hour. For sauce, mint sauce, with salad, brocoli,
toes, celery raw or stewed : or for a fore quarter of lamb, cut
off the shoulder, pepper and salt the ribs, and squeeze a Se-
ville orange over it.
Tongues or Udders.
THE tongue should be parboiled, before it is put down to
roast; stick eight or ten cloves about it; baste it with but-
ter, and serve it up with some gravy. An udder may be
roasted after the same manner.
Sweetbreads.
FIRST parboil them, and when cold lard them xvith bacou,
and roast them in a Dutch oven, or on a poor man's jack.
For sauce, plain butter, ketchup and butter, or lemon sauce.
Venison.
IN order to roast a haunch of venison properly, as soon ajs
you have spitted it, you must lay over it a large sheet of pa-
per, and then a thin common paste, with another paper over
that. Tie it fast, in order to keep the paste from dropping oft';
and if the haunch be a large one, it will take four hours roast-
ing. As soon as it is done enough, take off both paper and
paste, dredge well with flour, and baste with butter. As soon
as it becomes of a light brown, dish it up ; serving brown
gravy, and currant jelly sauce, in tureens.
Saddle of Mutton.
TAKE a saddle, and remove the skin very neatly near the
rump, without taking it quite off, or breaking it. Take some
lean ham, truffles, morels, green onions, parsley, thyme, sweet
herbs, all chopped small, with some spice, pepper, and salt*
Strew it over the mutton where the skin is taken off; put the
skin over it neatly, and tie over it some white paper, well
buttered, and roast it. When nearly enough, take off the
paper, strew over it some grated bread, and when it is of a fine
brown, take it up. Have ready some good gravy for 'sauce.
Or it may be roasted without any force.
Haunch of Mutton.
To dress a haunch of mutton venison fashion, take a hind
fat quarter of mutton, and cut the leg like a haunch. Lay it
in a pan with the back side of it down, and pour a bottle of
red wine over it, in which let it lie twenty-four hours. Spit
and roast it at a good quick fire, and keep basting all the time
with the same liquor and butter. It will require an hour and
an half roasting ; and when done, send it up with a little
ROASTING. 39
good gravy in one boat, and sweet sauce in another. A good
i'at neck of mutton done in this manner, is esteemed delicate
eating.
Mutton with Oysters.
TAKE a leg of mutton, after it has beeli killed two or three
days, stuff it all over with oysters, and roast it. Garnish with
horse-radish. It may be roasted with cockles in the same
manner.
Pigs.
COOKS who choose to have the killing of the pig they are
to dress, must proceed thus : stick the pig just above the
breast-bone, and run the knife into its heart ; for if the heart
is not touched, it will be a long while dying. As soon as it is
dead, put it a few minutes in cold water, and rub it over with
a little rosin, beaten exceedingly fine, or you may make use
of its own blood for that purpose. Let it lie half a minute in
a pail of scalding water, then take it out, lay it upon a clean
table, and pull off the hair as fast as possible ; but if it do not
come clean off, put it into the hot water again, and when per-
fectly clean, wash it in warm water, and then in two or three
cold waters, in order that in may not taste of the rosin, when
dressed. Take off the four feet at the first joint, slit it down
the belly, and take out all the entrails. Put the heart, liver,
lights, and pettitoes together; wash the pig well in cold water,
and having perfectly dried it, fold it in a wet cloth to keep it
from the air. Make a stuffing with chopped sage, two escha-
lots, two eggs, grated bread, and fresh butter; and season
with pepper and salt : put it into the belly, sew it up, spit it,
and rub it over with a paste-brush dipped in sweet oil. Roast
gently, and when done, cut off the head ; 'then cut the body
and head in halves, lay them on a dish, put the stuffing with
the brains into a stewpan, add to them some good gravy,
make it boil, and serve up the pig with the sauce under it.
See Sauces.
Hind Quarter of a Pig, Lamb fashion.
AT that season of the year, when house lamb bears an ex-
traordinary price, the hind quarter of a large pig will be a
very good substitute for it. Take off the skin and roast it,
and it will eat like lamb. Serve with mint sauce, or a salad.
Ham or Gammon.
TAKE off the skin of the ham or gammon, when you have
half boiled it, and dredge with oatmeal sifted very fine. Baste
with butter, and roast gently two hours. Stir up your fire,
40 ROASTING.
and then brown it quickly ; and when so done dish up, and
pour brown gravy into the dish.
Calfs Head.
WASH the head very clean, take out the bones, and dry
well with a cloth. Make a seasoning of beaten mace, white
pepper aud salt, some bacon cut very small, and some grated
bread. Strew this over it, roll it up, skewer it with a small
skewer, and tie it with tape. Roast and baste it with butter ;
make a rich veal-gravy, thickened with butter, and roll it in
flour. Some like mushrooms and the fat part of oysters : but
it is very good without.
The German Way of dressing a Calf's Head.
TAKE a large calf's head, with great part of the neck cut
with it. Split it in half, scald it very white, and take out the
jaw-bone. Take a large stewpati or saucepan, and lay at
the bottom some slices of bacon, then some thin beef ste..ks,
with some pepper and salt. Then lay in the head, pour in
some beef stock, a large onion stuck with cloves, and a bunch
of sweet herbs. Cover the stewpan very close, and set it over
a stove to stew. Then make a ragout with a quart of good
beef gravy, and half a pint of red wine. Let the wine be
well boiled in the gravy ; add to it some sweetbreads par-
boiled, and cut in slices, some cocksy-combs, oysters, mush-
rooms, truffles, and morels. Let these stew till they be ten-
der. When the head is stewed, take it up, put it into a dish,
take out the brains, the eyes, and the bones. Then slit the
tonue,cut it into small pieces, cut the eyes in pieces also,
and chop the brains ; put these into a baking-dish, and pour
some of the ragout over them. Then take the head, lay it
upon the ragout, pour the rest over it, and on that some melted
butter. Then scrape some fine Parmesan cheese, and *trew
it over the butter, and send it to the oven. It does not want
much baking, but only requires tabe of a fine brown.
Calfs Liver.
WASH and wipe it ; cut a long hole in it, and fill it up
with a stuffing made of grated bread, chopped anchovy, sweet
herbs, fat bacon shred fine, onion, salt, pepper, a bit of but-
ter, and an egg: sew the liver up ; then lard it, or wrap it in
a veal-caul, and roast it. Serve with good gravy, and sweet
sauce. See Sauces.
Stuffing for Turkeys, Hares, Rabbits, Veal, Kc.
CHOP very fine, beef suet, parsley, thyme, eschalots, a very
small quantity of marjorum ; savory, basil, and lemon peel.
ROASTING. 41
with grated nutmeg, two eggs (or milk), pepper, salt, and an
anchovy ; mix all together, with grated bread.
Green Geese.
PUT a large lump of butter into the goose, spit it and lay
it down to the fire. Singe it, dredge it with flour, and baste
it well with butter. Baste it three or four different times with
cold butter, which will make the flesh rise much better than
if it were basted with the contents of the dripping-pan. If the
goose be a large one, it must be kept to the fire three quar-
ters of an hour; and when you think it is enough, dredge it
with flour, baste it till a fine froth rises on it, and the goose
be of a nice brown. See Sauces.
Stubble Geese.
TAKE a few sage leaves and two onions, and chop them as
fine as possible. Mix them with a large piece of butter, two
spoonfuls of salt and one of pepper. Put this into the goose,
spit it, and lay it down to the fire. Singe it, and dust it with
flour, and when it is thoroughly hot, baste it with fresh but-
ter. A large goose will require an hour and a half before a
good fire, and when it is done, dredge it and baste it, pull out
the spit, and pour in a little boiling water. See Sauces.
Chickens.
PLUCK your chickens very carefully, d/aw them, and cut
off their claws only, and truss them. Put them down to a
good fire, singe, dust, and baste them with butter. A quarter
of an hour w r ill roast them ; and when they are enough, froth
them, and lay them on your dish. Serve up with parsley and
butter, or white sauce. See Sauces.
Fowls.
HAVING cleansed and dressed your large fowls, put them
down to a good fire, singe, dust, and baste them well with
butter. They must be near an hour at the fire. Make your
gravy of the necks and gizzards, and when you have strained
it, put in a spoonful of browning. Take up your fowls, pom-
some gravy into a dish, and serve them up with egg sauce.
See Sauces.
Pheasants.
PHEASANTS and partridges may be treated in the same
manner. Dust them with flour, and baste them often with
fresh butter, keeping them at a good distance from the fire.
A good fire will roast them in half an hour. Serve up with
poivrade sauce, and bread sauce. See Sauces.
Fowls, Pheasant fashion.
IF you should have but one pheasant, and want two in a
dish, take a large full-grown fowl, keep the head on, and
truss it just as you do a pheasant. Lard it with bacon, but
do not lard the pheasant, and no bt>dy will know it.
Pigeons.
SCALD, draw, and take the craws clean out of your pigeons.
and wash them in several waters. When you have dried
them, roll a good lump of butter in chopped parsley, and sea-
son it with pepper and salt. Put this into your pigeons, and
spit, dust, and baste them. A good fire will roast them in
twenty minutes, and when they are enough, serve them up
with parsley and butter. See Sauces.
Larks.
'SKEWER a dozen larks, and tie both ends of the skewer to
the spit. Dredge and baste them, and let them roast ten
minutes. Break half a penny loaf into crumbs, and put them,
with a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, into a toss-
ing pan, and having shaken them over a gentle fire till they
are of a light brown, lay them between the birds, and pour a
little melted butter over them.
Larks roasted a la Francois.
WHEN the larks are trussed, put a sage or vine leaf over
their breasts: and having put them on a long skewer, put be-
tween every lark a thin piece of bacon. Tie the skewer to
the spit, and roast the birds before a clear brisk fire. Baste
with butter, and on removing the leaves, strew on them some
grated bread, mixed with a little flour. When neatly roasted,
put the larks round a dish, with grated bread fried in butter, in
the middle.
Quails.
'- :
TRUSS the quails, and make a stuffing for them with beef
suet and sweet herbs chopped very small, seasoned with a
little spice. Put them upon a small spit, and when they grow
warm baste them with water and salt ; then dredge them and
baste them with butter. For sauce, dissolve an anchovy in
good gravy, with two or three eschalots cut very fine, and the
juice of a Seville orange. Lay some fried bread crumbs
round the dish. See Sauces.
ROASTING. 43
Ducks.
KILL and draw your ducks ; then shred an onion, and a
few sage leaves. Season these with salt and pepper, and put
them into your ducks. Singe, dust, and baste them with but-
ter, and a good fire will roast them in twenty minutes; for the
quicker they are done the better they will be. Before you
take them up, dust them with flour, and baste them with but-
ter to give them a good frothing, and a pleasing brown.
Your gravy must be made of the gizzard and pinions, an
onion, a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, a few pepper corns,
and a large blade of mace, a spoonful of ketchup, and the
same of browning. Strain it and pour into your dish.
Turkeys.
HAVING dressed your turkey, according to the preparatory
directions already given for boiling it, truss its head down to
the legs, and make your stuffing as before directed. Spit it,
and lay it down to a good fire, which must be clear and brisk.
Singe, dust it with flour, and baste it several times with cold
butter, which will froth it much better than the hot contents
of the dripping-pan, and make the turkey more plump. When
properly done, renew the frothing in the same manner as be-
fore, and dish up. A middling sized turkey must be down at
the fire an hour and a quarter. See Sauces.
Ruff's and Rees.
THESE birds are said to be peculiar to Lincolnshire, being
very rarely found in any other county. ' The properest food
to give them is white bread and boiled milk, and they will be
fat in about eight or ten days ; but they must be fed separate-
ly, they being so delicate a bird, that they will riot both eat
out of the same pot or trough. When you kill them, strip
the skin off the head and neck, with the feathers on, and then
pluck and draw them. Put them at a good distance from the
fire in roasting, and they will be done enough in about twelve
minutes, if the fire be good. When you take them up, slip
the skin on again with the feathers on. Garnish the dish
with crisp crumbs of bread round it, and send them up with
gravy under them, such as is directed for the pheasant, and
bread sauce in a boat. See Sauces.
Rabbits.
CASE your rabbits, skewer their heads with their mouths
upon their backs, stick their fore legs into their ribs and
ikewer the hind legs double. Use the stuffing before di-
44> ROASTING.
reeled. Put it into their bellies, sew them up, and dredge
and baste them well with butter. Take them up when they
have roasted an hour ; chop the livers, and lay them in lumps
round the edge of your dish. Serve them up with parsley and
butter for sauce. See Sauces.
Rabbits dressed Hare Fashion.
LARD your rabbit with bacon, and roast it in the manner
of a hare. If you lard it, you must make gravy sauce ; but
if it be not larded, white sauce will be most proper. See
Sauces.
Hares.
HAVING skewered your hare with the head upon one
shoulder, the fore legs stuck into the ribs, and the hind legs
double,proced to make your stuffing as before directed. While
roasting, dredge with flower, and baste with milk, and so
alternately, till a quarter of an hour before the hare is done :
then baste it with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter put
into the dripping pan. Serve up with a cullis sauce, and cur-
rant jelly. See Sauces.
Woodcocks and Snipes.
HAVING put your birds on a little spit, take a round of a
threepenny loaf, and toast it brown ; lay it in a dish under the
birds ; and when you lay them down to the fire, baste them
with a little butter, and let the trail drop on the toast. When
they be roasted enough, put the toast in the dish, and lay the
birds on it. Pour about a quarter of a pint of gravy into the
dish, and set it over a lamp or chafing-dish, for three or four
minutes, when the whole will be in a proper condition to be
sent to the table. Observe never to take any thing out of a
woodcock or snipe.
Eels and Lampreys.
EELS and lampreys are roasted with puddings in their bel-
lies in the same manner. Cut off their heads, gut them, and
take off the blood from the bone as clean as possible. Make
a forcemeat of shrimps or oysters, chopped small, half a
penny loaf crumbled, a little lemon-peel shred fine, the yolks
of two eggs, and a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Put this
into the bellies of the fish, sew them up, and turn them round
on the dish. Put flour and butter over them, pour a little
water into the dish, and bake them in a-moderate oven. When
vou take them out, take the gravy from under them, and
skim off the fat, strain it through an hair sieve, and add to it
BAKING. 45
a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle, two of browning, a large
spoonful of walnut ketchup, a glass of white wine, and an-
chovy, and a slice of lemon. Let it boil ten minutes, and
thicken it with butter and flour. Lemon and crisp parsley
may serve as a garnish.
Lobsters.
Pi T T a skewer into the vent of the tail of the lobster, to pre-
vent the water from getting into the body of it, and put it into
a pan of boiling water, with a little salt in it, and if it be a
large one, it will take half an hour boiling. Then lay it before
the fire, and baste it with butter till it has a fine froth. Dish
it up with plain melted butter io a boat. This is a better way
than actually roasting them, and is not attended with hajf the
trouble.
Cod's Head.
HAVING washed the head very clean, and scored it with
a knife, strew a little salt on it, and lay it in a large tin oven
before the fire. Throw away all the water that comes from
it for the first half hour ; then sprinkle on a little nutmeg,
cloves, mace beat fine,, and salt. Flour, and baste it with
butter. When that has lain some time, turn and season it,
and baste the other side the same. Turn it often, then baste
it with butter and crumbs of bread. If it be a large head it
will take four or five hours baking. Have ready some melted
butter wi||um anchovy, some of the liver of the fish boiled
and bruised fine, and mix it well with the butter, and two
yolks of eggs beat fine. Then strain them through a sieve, and
put them into the saucepan, with a few shrimps or pickled
cockles, two spoonfuls of red wine, and the juice of a lemon ;
serve up.
CHAPTER V.
BAKING.
Leg of Beef.
(_/UT the meat off a leg of beef, and break the bones; put
it into an earthen pan, with two onions and a bundle of sweet
herbs, and season it with a spoonful of whole pepper, and a
few cloves and blades of mace. Cover it with water, and
having tied the pot down close with brown paper, put it into
BAKIN(;.
the oven to bake. As soon as it is enough, take it out and
strain it through a sieve, and pick out all the fat and sinews,
putting thenvmto a saucepan, with a little gravy, and a piece
of butter rolled in flour. Set the saucepan on the fire, shake
it often, and when it is thoroughly hot, pour it into the dish..
and send it to table. Ox cheek' may be done in the same
manner; and if you should think it too strong, you may
weaken it by pouring in a suflicient quantity of hot \va?n .
but cold water will spoil it.
Rump of Beef .
TAKE a rump of beef and bone it, beat it well with a roll-
ing pin, cut off the sinew, and lard it with a large piece of
bacon. Season your lards with pepper, salt, and cloves : and
lard across the meat, that it may cut handsomely. Season
every part of the meat with pepper, salt, and cloves; put them
in an earthen pot, with all the broken bones, half a pound of
butter, some bay leaves, some whole pepper, one or two sha-
lots, and some sweet herbs. Cover the top of the pan well ;
then put it in an oven ; and let it stand eight hours. Serve' it
up with some dried sippits, and its own liquor.
Calf's Head.
TAKE a calf's head, and pick and wash it very clean. Get
an earthen dish large enough to hold the head, and rub the
inside of the dish with butter. Lay some long iron skewers
across the top of the dish, and lay the head on them. Skewer
up the meat in the middle, that it may not touch the dish,
and then grate some nutmeg on every part of it, a few sweet
herbs, shred small, some crumbs of bread, and a little lemon-
peel cut fine. Then flour it all over, and having stuck pieces
of butter in the eyes, and on different parts of the head,
flour it again. Let it be well baked, of a fine brown. You may-
throw a little pepper and salt over it, and put into the dish a
piece of beef cut small, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, a
blade of mace, some whole pepper, two cloves, a pint of water,
and boil the brains with some sage. When the head is
enough, lay it on a dish, and put it before the fire to keep
warm ; then stir all together in the dish, and put it in a sauce-
pan ; then strain it off, and put it into the saucepan again.
Put into it a piece of butter rolled in flour, the sage and the
brains chopped fine, a spoonful of ketchup, and two spoon-
fpjs of red wine. Boil them together, take the brains, beat
f*iem well, and mix them with the sauce. Pour all into the
dish, and send it to table. The tongue must be baked in the
head, and not cut out, as the head will then lie in the dish
more handsomely.
BAKING. 1
Pigs.
WHEN necessity obliges you to bake a pig, lay it in a dish,
tlour it well all over, and rub the pig over with butter. But-
ter the dish in which you intend to put it, and put it in the
oven. Take it out as soon as it is enough; and having rub-
bed it over with a butter cloth, put it into the oven again till
it be dry ; then take it out, lay it in a dish, and cut it up.
Take off* the fat from the dish it was baked in, and some
good gravy will remain at the bottom. Add to this a litrie
veal gravy, with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and boil it
up ; put it into the dish, with the brains and sage in the
belly.
Salmon.
CUT a piece of salmon in slices of an inch thick, and make
forcemeat as follows : take some of the flesh of the salmon,
and the same quantity of the meat of an eel, with a few mush-
rooms. Season with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and cloves. Beat
all together till very fine. Boil the crumb of a halfpenny roll
in milk, beat it with four eggs till it be thick, then let it cool,
and mix it. all together with four raw eggs. Take the skin
from the salmon, and lay the slices in a dish. Cover every
slice with forced meat, pour some melted butter over them,
and add a few crumbs of bread. Lay a crust round the dish,
and stick oysters round it. Put it into an oven, and, when it is
of a fine brown, pour over it a little melted butter, with some
red wine boiled in it, and the juice of a lemon.
Carp.
HAVING scaled, washed, and cleaned a brace of carp pro-
perly, get an earthen pan deep enough for them to lie in
properly ; and having buttered the pan a little, lay in the
carp. Season them with a little black and white pepper, mace,
cloves, nutmegs, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, and an
anchovy ; pour in a bottle of white wine, cover them close,
and put them into a hot oven. If they are large, they will
require an hour baking ; but if small, less time will do
them. When they are enough, take them up carefully, and
lay them in a dish. Set it over hot water to keep hot, and
cover close. Pour all the liquor in which they were baked
into a saucepan ; let it boil a minute or two, strain it, and
add half a pound of butter rolled in flour. Keep stirring '*+
all the time it is boiling ; squeeze in the juice of half a lemc.i,
and put in a proper quantity of salt, observing to skim all the
fat off" the liquor. Pour the sauce over the fish, lay the roes
round them, and garnish with lemon.
48 BAKING.
|
Cod's Head.
MAKE the head very clean, and lay it in the pan, which
you must first rub round with butter. Put in a bundle of
sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, three or four blades
of mace, half a large spoonful of black and white pepper,
part of a nutmeg bruised, a quart of water, a little piece of
lemon-peel, and a little piece of horse-radish. Dust the head
with flour, stick a piece of butter on various parts of it, and
sprinkle raspings all over it, put it into the oven, and when
enough, take it out of the dish, and lay it carefully in the
dish in which you intend to serve it up. Set the dish over
boiling water, and cover it up close, to prevent its getting
cold. In the meantime, as expeditiously as you can, pour all
the liquor out of the dish, in which it was baked, into a sauce-
pan, and let it boil three or four minutes; then strain it, and
put in a gill of red wine, two spoonfuls of ketchup, a pint of
shrimps, half a pint of oysters, a spoonful of mushroom
pickle, a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, and stir
all together till it be thick and boils : then strain it, and pour
it into the dish, and have ready some toast, cut three corner
ways, and fried crisp. Stick pieces of the toast about the
head and mouth, and lay the remainder round the head.
Herrings.
HAVING scaled, washed, and dried your herrings properly,,
lay them on a board, and take a little black pepper whole,
allspice in fine powder, a few whole cloves, and plenty of salt ;
mix them together, and rub the fish all over with it. Lay
them in a pot, cover them with half vinegar and half small
beer, tie a strong paper over the pot, and bake them in a
moderate oven. .They may be eaten either hot or cold, and
they will keep good two or three months.
Sprats.
MAY be dressed in the same manner, only they should be
slightly rubbed with saltpetre the preceding night ; in order
to make them red.
BROILING. 49
CHAPTER VI.
BROILING.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
JJEFORE you lay your meat on the gridiron, be careful
that your fire be very clear: the kind or cinder termed coak
makes the best fire for broiling. Let your gridiron be very
clean, and when heated by the fire, rub the bars with clean
mutton suet: this will both prevent the meat from being dis-
coloured, and hinder it from sticking. Turn your meat
quickly while broiling, and have a dish, placed on a chafing-
dish of hot coals, to put your meat in as fast as it is ready,
and carry it hot and covered to table. Observe never to baste
any thing on the gridiron, because that may be the means of
burning it, and making it smoky.
Beef Steaks.
THE best beef steaks are those cut off a rump, and should
not be more than half an inch in thickness. Lay on the
steaks, and turn them often to keep in the gravy; or, having
put them on the gridiron, keep them continually turning;
whilst dressing, lay upon them a piece of fat ; and when
taken from the fire, put upon them a little grated horse-radish,
together with a small portion of butter, mixed with white
pepper and salt. Put into the dish a little hot gravy, in which
let there be shred some eschalot, or young onions,
Mutton Chops.
TAKE a loin of mutton, and cut chops from it about half an
inch thick, and cut off the skin, and part of the fat. Keep
turning them often, and take care that the fat which fulls from
them do not make the fire blaze and smoke your chops. Put
them into a dish as soon as you think they are done, and rub
them with butter. Slice an eschalot very thin into a spoonful
of water, and pour it on them with a spoonful of mushroom
ketchup, and a little salt. Or cut the best part of a neck of
mutton into chops, having previously cut off the fat, and sea-
son them with white pepper and sak : keep frequently turning
them. When sufficiently done, serve them up as hot as pos-
sible.
M> BROILING,
Pork Chops.
THE same rules we have laid down for broiling mutton,
will hold good with respect to pork chops, with this difference
only, that pork requires more broiling than mutton. As soon
as they are enough, put a little good gravy to them, and
strew a little sage, rubbed fine, over them, which will give-
them an agreeable flavour.
Chickens,
HAVING slitted your chickens down the back, season them
with pepper and salt, and lay them on the gridiron, over a
clear fire, and at a great distance. Let the inside continue
next the fire, till it be nearly half done. Then turn them,
taking care that the fleshy sides do not burn, and let them
broil till they are of a fine brown. Have good gravy sauce,
with some mushrooms, and garnish them with lemon, and
the liver broiled, and the gizzards cut, slashed, and broiled
with pepper and salt. See Sauces,
Pigeons.
WHEN you broil pigeons, take care that your fire be clear.
Take some parsley shred fine, a piece of butter as big as a
walnut, with a little pepper and salt, and put it into their
bellies. Tie them at both ends, and put them on the grid-
iron. Or you may split and broil them, having first seasoned
them with pepper and salt. Serve them up with a little parsley
and butter.
Broiled Fish prepared thus :
WIPE the fish dry, flour them well, and have the gridiron
clean ; then rub the bars with a veal caul, and put the fish at
a proper distance. Broil them gently over a clear fire till of
a fine colour, and serve them up directly. Fish in general to
be floured, except herrings, which are only to be scored with
a knife.
Weavers.
GUT, and wash clean; dry in a clean cloth, and flour;
then broil them. Serve with plain butter and anchovy sauce,
See Sauces.
Cod.
CUT the cod into slices about two inches thick, and dry
*nd flour them well. Make a good clear fire, rub the grid-
BftOlLlNG. 51
iron with a piece of chalk, and set it high from the fire.
Turn them often, till they be quite enough, and of a fine
hrovvn. They require a great deal of care to prevent them
from breaking. Lobster or shrimp sauce. See Sauces.
Crimped Cod.
PUT a gallon of pump water into a pot, and set it on the
fire, with a handful of salt. Boil it up several times, and
keep it clean scummed. When well cleared from the scum,
take a middling cod, as fresh as possible, and throw it into a
tub of fresh pump water. Let it lie a few minutes, and then
cut it into slices two inches thick. Throw these into the
boiling brine, and let it boil briskly a few minutes. Then
take out the slices, take great care not to break them, and lay
them on a sieve to drain. When they are well dried, flour
them, and lay them at a distance upon a very good fire to
broil. Lobster or shrimp sauces. See Sauces.
Trout.
CLEAN and wash, and dry them well in a cloth ; tie theni
round with packthread from top to bottom, to keep them entire
and in shape. Then melt some butter, with a good deal of
basket salt. Pour it all over the trout till it is perfectly covered ;
then put it on a clear fire, at a great distance, that it may do
gradually. When done, lay it in a warm dish, and serve with
anchovy sauce.
Cod Sounds.
LAY them a few minutes in hot water, then take them out,
and rub them well with salt, and take off the skin and black
dirt. Put them into water, and boil till tender. Take them
out, flour them well, pepper and salt them, and then put
them on the gridiron. Whilst broiling, season a little good
brown gravy with pepper, salt, a tea spoonful of soy, and a
little mustard : give it a boil with a bit of flour and butter,
and pour it over the sounds.
Lobsters.
WHEN the lobsters are broiled, split their tails and chines,
crack their claws, and pepper and salt them. Take out their
bodies, and what is called the lady. Then put them again
into the shel!s, and then upon the gridiron over a clear fire,
as also the tails and the claws. Baste them with butter, and
send them to table, with melted butter and anchovy sauce.
Mackerel.
HAVING cleaned your mackerel, wipe dry , split them down the
$2 BROILING.
back, and season them with pepper and salt. Flour them,
and broil them of a fine light brown. See Sauces.
If you choose to broil your mackerel whole, wash them
clean, cut off their heads, and pull out their roes at the neck
end. Boil their roes in a little water; then bruise them with
a spoon, beat up the yolk of an egg, a little nutmeg, a little
lemon peel cut fine, some thyme, some parsley, boiled and
chopped fine, a little salt and pepper, and a few crumbs of
bread. Mix these well together, and fill the fish with them.
Flour them well, and broil^ them nicely. Butter, ketchup,
and walnut pickle, will make a proper sauce.
Salmon.
TAKE pieces or slices of salmon, wipe dry, dip in sweet
oil (or for want of oil, in fres'i butter that has been oiled),
and season with pepper and salt; fold them in pieces of
writing paper, broil over a clear fire, and serve them up hot.
Eels.
. HAVING skinnedj gutted, and washed your eels, dry them
with a cloth, and rub them with the yolk of an egg. Strew
grated bread over them and chopped parsley, and sea-
son them with pepper and salt. Baste them well with butter,
and broil them on a gridiron. Serve with parsley and butter,
and anchovy sauce.
Eels pitch-cocked.
HAVING skinned and cleansed your eels as before, sprinkle
them with pepper, salt, and a little dried sage. Turn them
backward and forward, and skewer them. Rub your gridiron
with beef suet, and broil them till they are of a fine brown.
Put them on your dish, serve them up with melted butter,
and lay fried parsley round the dish.
Haddocks and Whitings.
HAVING gutted and washed your fish, dry them with a
cloth, and rub a little vinegar over them, which will contri-
bute to preserve the skin whole. Dredge them well with
flour, and rub your gridiron with beef suet. Let your grid-
iron he very hot when you lay your fish on, otherwise they
will stick to it. Turn them two or three times while they
are broiling, and when enough, serve up with melted butter
and anchovy sauce.
Another method is, when you have cleansed and dried your
fish as before directed, put them in a tin oven, and set them
before a quick fire. Take them from the fire as soon as the
skin begins to rise, and having beaten up an egg, rub it over
BROILING. 53
them with a feather. Sprinkle a few crumbs of bread over
them, dredge them well with flour, and rub your gridiron
when hot with suet or butter ; but it must be very hot before
you lay your fish on it. When you have turned them, rub a
little butter over them, and keep turning them as the fire may
require, till they be enough, which may be known by their
browning. Serve them up with either shrimp sauce, or melted
butter and anchovy sauce.
Mullets.
ARE to be dressed as directed for salmon.
Herrings.
SCALE, gut, and wash clean, dry in a cloth ; score, and
broil them. Plain butter and mustard for sauce.
Potatoes.
HAVING first boiled them, peel them, cut them into two,
and broil them till they are brown on both sides. Then lay
them in the plate or dish, and pour melted butter over them.
Mushrooms.
CLEAN fresh mushrooms with a knife, wash and drain them :
make a case with a sheet of white paper ; rub the inside well
with fresh butter, and fill it with the mushrooms ; season them
with white pepper arid salt ; put the case containing them
upon a baking plate of cast iron (in the country called a back-
stone) over a slow fire ; cover them with the cover of a stew-
pot, upon which place some fire, and when nearly dry, serve
them up, with some rich cullis. See Sauces.
Eggs.
HAVING cut a toast round a quartern loaf, brown it, lay it
on your dish, butter it, and very carefully break six or eight
eggs on the toast. Take a red hot shovel, and hotd it over
them. When done, squeeze & Seville orange over them,
grate a little nutmeg over it, and serve it up for a side-plate.
Or you may poach your eggs, and lay them on a toast; or
toast your bread crisp, and pour a little boiling water over
it. Season it with a little salt, and then lay your poached
eggs on it.
54 FRYING.
CHAPTER VII.
FRYING.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
JJE careful always to keep your frying-pan clean, and see
that it is properly tinned. When you fry any sort of fish,
first dry them in 'a cloth, and then flour them. Put into
your frying-pan plenty of dripping or hog's lard, and let it be
boiling hot before you put in your fish. Butter is not so good
for the purpose, as it is apt to burn and blacken the fish, and
make them soft. When you have fried your fish, lay them
in a dish or hair sieve to drain, before you send them up to
table.
Venison.
BONE your venison, if it be either the neck or breast ; but
if it be the shoulder, the meat must be cut off the bone in
slices. Make some gravy with the bones ; then take the meat
and fry it of a light brown ; take it up and keep it hot before
the fire. Put some flour to the butter in the pan, and keep
stirring it till it be quite thick and brown. Take care it does
r^ot burn. Stir in half a pound of fine sugar beat to powder,
pfit in the gravy that came from the bones, and some red
wine. Make it the thickness of a fine cream ; squeeze in the
juice of a lemon, warm the venison in it, put it in the dish,
and pour the sauce over it.
Ox Feet.
LET them boil till they are tender ; then skin and split
them, and take out the bones, and fry them in butter. When
they have fried a little, put in some mint and parsley shred
small, a little salt, and some beaten butter; beat the yolks of
eggs, some mutton gravy and vinegar, the juice of a lemon
or orange, sind nutmeg. Lay it in the dish, and pour the
sauce over it. Some put a little shred onion in it.
Beef Steaks.
HAVING cut your steaks in the same manner as for broiling,
put them into a stewpan, with a good piece of butter, set
them over a very slow fire, and keep turning them till the
butter becomes of the consistence of white gravy. Pour it
into a bason, and add more butter to them. When they are
Dearly fried, pour all the gravy into a bason, and put more
FRYING. 5
butter in your pan. Fry your steaks over a brisk fire till they
are of a light brown, and then take them out of the pan.
Put them into a pewter dish made hot, slice a eschalot among
them, andput in some of the gravy that was drawn from- them,
and pour it hot upon them.
Another method is, take rump-steaks, pepper and salt
them, and fry them in a little butter very quick, and brown :
then put them into a dish, and pour the fat out of the frying-
pan. Take half a pint of hot gravy, half a pint of hot water,
and pu: into the pan. Add to it a little butter rolled in flour,
a little pepper and salt, and two or three eschalots chopped
fine. Boil them up in your pan for two minutes, and pour it
over the steaks You may garnish with a little scraped horse-
radish. Or fry the steaks in butter a good brown, then put
in half a pint of water, one onion sliced, a spoonful of walnut
ketchup, a little chopped eschalot, and some white pepper and
salt. When enough, thicken the gravy with flour and butter,
and serve up very hot.
Loin or Neck of Lamb.
HAVING cut your lamb into chops, rub both sides of them
with the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle some grated bread ovei
them, mixed with a little parsley, thyme, marjoram, winter
savory, and a little lemon-peel, all chopped very fine. Fry
in butter till of a nice light brown, and garnish with fried
parsley.
Veal Cutlets.
CUT your veal into pieces about the thickness of half a
crown, and as long as you please. Dip them in the yolk of
an egg, and strew over them grated bread, a few sweet
herbs, some lemon-peel, and a little grated nutmeg, and fry
them in fresh butter. While they are frying, make a little
gravy, and when the meat is done, take it out, and lay it in
a dish before the fire ; then shake a little flour into the pan,
and stir it round. Put in a little gravy and pickled mushrooms^
squeeze in a little lemon, and pour it over the veal.
Cold Veal
CUT your veal into pieces of the thickness of half a crown,
and as long as you please. Dip them in the yolk of an egg,
and then in grated bread, with a few sweet herbs, and shred
lemon-peel in it. Grate a little nutmeg over them, and fry
them in fresh butter. The butter must be hot, just enough
to fry them in. In the meantime, make a little gravy of the
bone of the veal, and when the meat is fried, take it omt
with a fork, and lay it in a dish before the fire. Then shake
5(5 FRYING.
a little flour into the pan, and stir it round. Then put in a
little gravy, squeeze in a little lemon, and pour it over the
veal 4
Sweetbreads.
CUT them into long slices, beat up the yolk of an egg, and
rub it over them with a feather. Make a seasoning of pepper,
salt, and grated bread; dip them into it, and fry in butter;
or you mny fry them in the following batter. For sauce,
ketchup and butter, with gravy or lemon sauce. Garnish
with small slices of toasted bacon and crisped parsley. See
Sauces.
Batter for frying different Articles ; such as Celery, OxPeths,
Sweetbreads, Artichoke Bottoms, Tripe, Eggs, Me.
TAKE four ounces of best flour sifted, a little salt and pep-
per, three eggs, and a gill of beer; beat them together with
a wooden sypoon for ten minutes. Let it be of a good thick-
ness to adhere to the different articles.
Tripe.
CUT your tripe into pieces four inches long, and about
three inches wide ; put it into batter, and fry in boiling lard.
Fry till brown ; then take it out, and put it to drain, and serve
it up with plain butter in a boat: or you may add fried
onions, and serve up with butter and mustard.
Sausages.
TAKE six apples, and slice four of them as thick as a crown
piece ; cut the other two in quarters, and fry them with the
sausages till they are brown. Lay the sausages in the middle
of the dish, and the apples round them. Garnish with the
quartered apples. Sausages fried, and stewed cabbage,
make a good dish. Heat cold pease-pudding in a pan, lay it
in the dish, and the sausages round ; heap the pudding in
'the middle, and lay the sausages all round up edgeways, ex-
cept one in the middle at length.
Eggs.
PUT clarified butter in a frying-pan, break fresh eggs, one
at a time ; put a little white pepper and salt, and turn them
half over. They should be fried of a nice brown, but not
11
hard.
Potatoes.
CUT your potatoes into thin slices, as large as a crown piece,
FRYING. 51
and fry them brown. Lay them in a dish or plate, and pour
melted butter over them.
Artichokes.
HAVING blanched them in water, flour them and fry them
in fresh butter. Lay them in your dish, and pour melted
butter over them.
Celery.
CUT celery heads throe inches long, boil them till half
done, wipe dry, and dip in batter: have read^ boiling lard,
take out the heads singly with a fork, fry them of a light co-
lour, drain dry, and serve with fried parsley.
Parsley.
TAKE fresh gathered parsley, pick, wash, and drain it very
dry with a cloth : have ready clean boiling lard, put the parsley
into it, keep stirring with a skimmer, and. when a little crisp,
take it out, put it on a drainer, and strew salt upon it.
Turbots.
THE turbot must be small ; cut it across as if it were ribbed;
when it is quite dry, flour it, and put it in a large frying-pan,
with boiling lard enough to cover it. Fry it till it is brown,
and then drain it. Clean the pan, put into it half a pint of
white wine, and white gravy enough to cover it, anchovy,
salt, nutmeg, and a little ginger. Put in the fish, and let it
stew till half the liquor is wasted. Then take it out, and put
in a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a squeeze of lemon.
Let them simmer till of a proper thickness ; rub a hot dish
with a piece of eschalot, lay the turbot in the dish, and pour
the hot sauce over it.
Soles.
HAVING skinned your soles in the same manner you do
eels, except taking off their heads, which must not be done,
rub them over with an egg, and strew over them grated bread.
Fry them over a brisk fire in hog's lard till they are brown.
Serve them up with melted butter, and anchovy sauce.
Smelts.
DRAW the guts out at the gills, but leave in the milt or
roe ; dry them with a cloth, beat an egg, rub it over them
with a feather, and strew grated bread over them. Fry them
with ho^'s lard, and put in your fish when boiling hot. Shake
them a little, and fry them till they are of a fine brown.
A8 TRYING.
Drain them on a dish, or in a sieve. Fry a handful of parsley
in the manner already directed.
Oysters,
WHEN you intend to fry your oysters, you must always
choose those of the larger kind. Open twenty-four large oys-
ters, blanch them with their own liquor ; and when three parts
done, strain them, and preserve the liquor ; then wash, and
let them drain : in the meanwhile, make a batter with four
table-spoonfuls of Hour, two eggs a little pepper and salt, and
their liquor. Beat it well with a wooden spoon for five mi-
nutes. Put the oysters into the batter, mix them lightly, and
have ready boiling lard. Take the oysters out singly with a
fork, put them into the lard, and fry them of a nice brown co-
lour. Then put them on a drainer, strew over a small quantity
of salt, and serve them up. If intended for a dish, put fried
parsley under them, or stewed spinach.
Carp.
SCALE and gut your carp, then wash them clean, lay them
in a cloth to dry, flour them, and fry them of a fine light
brown. Take some crusts, cut tnree-corner ways, and fry
them and the roes.. When your fish are done, lay them on a
coarse cloth to drain, and prepare anchovy sauce, with the
juice of lemon. Lay your carp on the dish, the roes on each
side, and garnish with lemon and the fried toast.
Tench.
CLEAN your fish, slit them along the backs, and with the
point of your knife raise the flesh from the bone. Cut the
skin across at the head and tail, strip it off, and take out the
bone. Take another tench, and mince the flesh small, with
mushrooms, cives, and parsley. Season them with salt, pep-
per, beaten mace, nutmeg, and a few savory herbs, minced
small. Mix these well together, pound them in a mortar
with crumbs of bread (in quantity about the size of two eggs)
soaked in cream, the yolks of three or four eggs, and a piece
of butter. When these have been well pounded, stuff your
fish with it. Put clarified butter into a pan, set it over the
fire, and when hot, flour your fish, and put them into the
pan one by one. Having fried them till brown, take them
up and lay in a coarse cloth before the fire to keep hot.
Then pour all the fat out of the pan, put in a quarter of a
pound of butter, and shake some flour into the pan. Keep
it stirring with a spoon till the butter is a little brown, and
then pour in half a pint of white wine. Stir them together,
FRYING. 59
and pour in half a pint of boiling water, an onion stuck. with
cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, and two blades of mace.
Cover these close, and let them stew as softly as you can for
a quarter of an hour ; then strain off the liquor, and put it
into the pan again, adding two spoonfuls of ketchup, an
ounce of truffles or morels, boiled tender in half a pint of
water, a few mushrooms, and half a pint of oysters, clean
washed in their own liquor. When you find your sauce
is properly heated, and very good, put your tench into
the pan, and make them quite hot ; then take them out, lay
them into the dish, and pour your sauce over them. Carp
may be dressed in the same manner, as may tench in the man-
ner above described for carp.
Eels.
MAKE your eels very clean, cut them into pieces, and hav-
ing seasoned them with pepper and salt, flour them and fry
them. Let your sauce be plain melted butter and anchovy
sauce ; but be careful to drain them properly before you lay
them in the dish.
Lampreys.
BLEED them, and save the blood ; wash them in hot water
to take off the slime, and cut them in pieces. When nearly
fried enough, pour out the fat, put in a little white wine, and
give the pan a shake round. Season with pepper, sweet
herbs, a few capers, a good piece of butter rolled in flour,
and the blood. Shake the pan often, and cover close. Take
them out as soon as enough, strain the sauce, and give it a
quick boil. Then squeeze in a lemon, and pour it over the
fish.
Mullets.
SCALE and gut them ; melt some butter, and pour it into a
deep dish. Score the mullets across the back, and dip them
into the butter. Then set on in a stewpan some butter, and
let it clarify. Fry the mullets in it, and when they are
enough, lay them on a warm dish. For sauce, anchovy and
butter.
Herrings.
HAVING scaled, washed, and dried your herrings properly,
lay them separately on a board, and place them at the fire two or
three minutes before they are wanted, which will prevent their
sticking to the pan. Dredge your fish with flour ; and when
your butter boils in the pan, put in your fish, a few at a time,
and fry them over a brisk fire. As soon as sufficiently fried,
60 STEWS AND HASHES.
set their tails up one against another in the middle of the dish,
and fry a large handful of parsley crisp ; take it out before
it loses its colour, lay it round them, and serve them up with
parsley sauce in a boa.t. Some fry onions, lay them round
the dish, and make onion sauce ; and others cut off the heads
of the herrings after they are fried, chop them, and put them
into a saucepan, with ale, pepper, 'salt, and an anchovy;
they then thicken it with flour and butter, strain it, and put
it into a sauce-boat.
CE1APTER VIII.
STEWS AND HASHES
*.j Tiivmp of Beef.
IN order to stew rump of beef property, you- must first half
roast it, and then put it into a large saucepan, with two
quarts of water, one pint of small beer, one pint of red wine,
two or three blades of mace, an eschalot, two spoonfuls of
walnut ketchup, one of lemon pickle, two of browning, and
a little cayenne pepper and salt. Let these stew over a gentle
fu-^fror two hours, closely covered ; then take out your beef,
and lay it on a deep dish, skim off the fat, and strain the
gravy. Put into it an ounce of morels, half a pint of musli-
roor^s, and thicken your gravy, and pour it over your beef.
Lay 'forcemeat balls round it. Or wash the beef well, season
high with pepper, cayenne, allspice, three cloves, and a blade
of mace, all in fine powder. Bind up tight, and lay in a pot
that will just hold it. Fry three large onions sliced, put them
to it, with three carrots, two turnips, an eschalot, four cloves,
a blade of mace, a bundle of sweet herbs, and some celery.
Cover the meat with beef broth : simmer as gently as pos-
sible till tender. Clear off the fat, .and add to the gravy half
a pint of port wine, a glass of vinegar, two spoonfuls of
ketchup; simmer for half an hour, and serve in a deep dish.
Brisket of Beef a La Francois,
BONE a brisket of beef, and season with sweet herbs, escha-
lots, beaten spides, pepper, and salt: bind it round with a
packthread, and add beef gravy one quart, port wine one
pint, walnut ketchup four spoonfuls; braise (stew gently) till
tender; wipe the top dry, glaize, and serve it up with the
STEWS AND HASHES. 61
gravy round. Either onion, savoy, haricof, or ashee sauces
may be used. For making glaize, &c. See Sauces.
Brisket of Beef a L'Anglois.
STEW in two gallons of water, for two or three hours over
night, about ten pounds of brisket of beef. When sufficiently
tender, take out the bones. Then boil in some of the liquor a
few carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and white cabbage, till they
become quite tender. Add these and some salt and a liftle
pepper to the beef, and remainder of the broth, and stew all
together till sufficiently done.
Beef Gobbets.
CUT any piece of beef, except the leg, into pieces about
the size or a pullet's egg, and put them into a stewpan. Cover
with water, stew, skim clean, and when they have stewed an
hour, take mace, cloves, and whole pepper, tigd loosely in
a muslin rag, and some celery cut small. Put them into
the pan with some salt, turnips and carrots pared, and cut in
slices, a little parsley, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a large
crust of bread. You may put in an ounce of barley or rice,
if you like it. Cover it close, and let it stew till tender.
Take out the herbs, spices, and bread, and have ready a
French roll cut in four. Dish up all together, and send it to
table.
Beef stewed savourily.
CUT out the inside of a sirloin of beef, and take from it all
the fat; prepare a sufficient quantity of rich forcemeat (see
Sauces J, and put it within the beef, which must be tightly
rolled and bound with a tape. Fry to a light brown, and after
suffering the fat to drain from it, put it into a stewpan with a
quart of good gravy, a little ketchup, anchovy liquor, and
a few oysters, if in season.
Beef Steaks.
HAVING procured rump steaks, cut thick for this purpose,
pepper and salt them, and lay them in a stewpan, with some
butter and a little water ; when brown, add half a pint of
water, a blade or two of mace, two or three cloves, an an-
chovy, a small bundle of sweet herbs, a piece of butter rolled
in flour, a glass of white wine, and an onion. Cover close,
and let them stew softly till tender; then take out the steaks,
and pour off all the fat. Then strain the sauce they were
stewed in, and pour it into the pan, add a glassful of port
wine, and toss it all up together, till the sauce be quite hot
C2 STEWS AND HASHES.
and thick ; and if you choose to enrich it, von may add a
quarter of a pint of oysteis. Lay }'our steaks into the dish,
and pour the sauce over them. Or take three or four beef
steaks cut thick, and season with white pepper, salt, and
eschalot shred tine. Lay them in a stewpan, with some slices of
bacon under and over them, together with a piece of butter.
Stew over a slow fire for a quarter of an hour, after which
put to them a pint of brown gravy, a few pickled mushrooms,
a cucumber, a few morels, and two spoonfuls of port wine.
Stew till the steaks are sufficiently tender; then take out
the bacon, skim off the fat, and thicken the gravy with flour
rolled in butter.
Beef Steaks stewed with Cucumber.
PARE four large cucumbers, and cut them into slices about
an inch long, and put them into a stewpan, with four onions
sliced, and a piece of butter. Fry till brown, and add a pint
of gravy ; dust in a little flour. When the cucumbers are
sufficiently tender, skim off the fat. Take four rump steaks,
having previously beaten and seasoned them with white pep-
per and salt. Fry these quickly in butter; and, when done,
put them into a dish, pouring the cucumbers, onions, and
gravy over them.
Ox Tongue.
STEW it in just water enough to cover it, and let it simmer
two hours. Peel and put it into 'the liquor again, with some
pepper, salt, mace, two cloves, and whole pepper, tied in
u bit of fine cloth ; a few capers, chopped turnips, and car-
rots sliced ; half a pint of beef gravy, a quarter of a pint
of white wine, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Let it stew
very gently until tender; then takeout the spice and sweet
herbs, and thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour.
Hashed Beef or Mutton Savoury.
TAKE some onions and cut into slices, put a piece of butter
into a saucepan, and then put in the onions, with two spoon-
fuls of good gravy ; let them stew for ten minutes, taking
care to keep them of a good yellow colour. Take off all the
fat ; cut the beef or mutton into thin slices, and put it into
the sauce with a spoonful of walnut ketchup, four spoonfuls
of port wine, salt, white pepper, and add a little gravy a
short time before serving up.
Hashed Beef or Mutton Plain.
TAKE the bones of the meat, break small, and stew in a
little water with onions and sweet herbs; strain. Take a
STEWS AND HASHES. 63
lump of butter rolled in flour, fry it till of a nice brown ; add
the gravy and the meat, previously seasoned with pepper,
onion, and shred parsley, to the fried butter in the frying pan,
and when warm serve up.
Lamb's Head.
IN order to stew a lamb's head, wash and pick it very clean.
Lay it in water for an hour, take out the brains, and with a
sharp knife carefully extract the bones and the tongue ; but
be careful to avoid breaking the meat. Then take out the
eyes. Take two pounds of veal and two pounds of beef
suet, a very little thyme, a good piece of lemon peel minced,
part of a nutmeg grated, and two anchovies. Having chop-
ped all these well together, grate two stale rolls, and mix all
with the yolks of four eggs. Save enough of this meat to
make about twenty balls. Take half a pint of fresh mush-
rooms, clean peeled and washed, the yolks of six eggs chop-
ped, half a pint of oysters clean washed, or pickled cockles.
Mix all together; but first stew your oysters, and put to them
two quarts of gravy, with a blade or two of mace. Tie the
head with packthread, cover it close, and let it stew two hours.
While this is doing, beat up the brains with some lemon-peel
cut fine, a little chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg, and
the yolk of an egg. Fry the brains in little cakes, in boiling
dripping, and fry the balls, and keep them both hot. Take
half an ounce of truffles and morels, and strain the gravy the
head was stewed in. Put td it the truffles and morels, and a
few mushrooms, and boil all together ; then put in the rest
of the brains that are not fried, and stew them together for a
minute or two. Pour this over the head, lay the fried brains
and balls round it, and garnish with lemon.
Lamb's Head and Appurtenances. See Made Dishes.
Knuckle of Veal.
BEFORE you begin your stew, take care that the pot or
saucepan is very clean, and lay at the bottom of it four clean
wooden skewers. Wash and clean the knuckle carefully, and
lay it in the pot, with two or three blades of mace, a little
whole pepper, a little piece of thyme, a small onion, a crust
of bread, and two quarts of water. Having covered it down
close, make it boil, and let it only simmer for two hours.
When enough, take it up, lay it in a dish, and strain the
broth on it.
Calf's Head.
TAKE a head without the scalp, chopped in half; wash and
blanch it, peel the tongue cut in slices, and likewise the meat
64 STEWS AND HASHES.
frofri the head : add blanched morels and truffles, egg and
forcemeat balls, stewed mushrooms, artichoke-bottoms, and
well seasoned gravy. Let the meat stew gently till nearly
done, and then add slices of throat sweetbreads. When
serving up, put round the hash the brains and fried rashers of
bacon. If desired, half the head .may be put on the top, and
prepared thus: when the head is bl.incheO, one half is to be
rubbed over with the yolk of a raw egg ; then season with
pepper and salt, strew with fine grated bread, bake till very
tender; and brown with a salamander. The brains to be
mixed with yolk of egg, and rolled in grated bread, and fried
in boiling lard. Or take a calf's head with the skin on ; scald
off the hair, and when well washed, split the head and take
out the brains : boil the head till tender, then from one half
of it take off the flesh, and cut it into small pieces ; dredge
with a little flour, and let it stew for a quarter of an hour in a
rich white gravy made of veal and mutton, a piece of bacon,
and seasoned with white pepper and salt, onion, and a very
little mace. Take off the meat from the other half of the hvjad
in one whole piece, and roll it like a collar, having previously
stuffed it with a rich forcemeat (see Sauces), and bind with a
tape. Stew till tender in good gravy: when done enough,
put it in a dish, with the hash made of the other part of the
head round it, and garnish with forcemeat balls, fried oysters,
and the brains made into cakes with grated bread and yolk of
egg, and fried in butter; add wine, truffles, morels, mush-
rooms, or any other kind of seasoning to the taste.
Hashed Veal.
CUT your veal into thin round slices, of the size of a half-
crown, and put them into a saucepan, with a' little gravy.
Put to it some lemon-peel cut exceedingly fine, and a tea-
spoonful of lemon-pickle. Put it on the fire, and thicken it
with butter and flour. Put in your veal as soon as it boils,
and just before you dish it np put in a spoonful of cream, and
lay sippets round the dish.
Minced Veal.
HAVING cut your veal into slices, and then into square
pieces (but do not chop it), put it into a saucepan, with two
or three spoonfuls of gravy, a little pepper and salt, a slice of
lemon, a good piece of butter rolled in flour, a tea spoonful
of lemon-pickle, and a large spoonful of cream. Keep shak-
ing over the fire till it boil ; but it must not boil above a mi-
nute, as otherwise it will make the veal hard. Serve it up
with sippets round the dish.
STEWS AND HASHES. 65
Minced Beef.
SHRED the beef least roasted very fine, with some of the
fat; put it into a stewpan, with a small quantity of onion or
eschalot, and a large spoonful of vinegar, or instead of
onion two large spoonfuls of eschalot rinegar, a little water or
broth, some of the gravy of the meat, and pepper and salt :
let the whole simmer gently, but do not let it boil, as that
will harden the meat. Serve in a dish, with sippets.
Hashed Beef and broiled Bones.
CUT the fillet from the inside of a sirloin that has been
roasted the preceding day ; or for want of it, the other part,
into small collops ; cut the bones into neat pieces, leave
plenty of meat on, score, pepper, and salt the bones ; put
them into a tart-pan, and pour a little oiled butter over them;
a short time before they are wanted, put them in the oven to
warm through, and then on the gridiron to brown : put the
trimmings of the meat and the rough bones into a stewpan,
and two large onions sliced, a little vinegar, and a pint of
stock (see Saucesj : set it on a stove to stew slowly for an
hour; then strain and skim off the fat ; put an ounce of butter
into the stewpan, and set it on the fire to melt, then add a
table spoonful of flour ; stir over the fire for a minute or two ;
then put in the liquor the beef bones, &c. were stewed in ;
stir till it boil, then add a little ketchup, strain through a
tamis, and put the collops to it ; set it by the side of a stove
to keep hot, for it should not boil, as that would harden the
meat ; season with pepper and salt ; serve up with the broiled
bones round the side.
Hashed Lamb and broiled Blade-bone.
CUT the blade-bone from the shoulder oJF lamb, leaving a
little meat upon it ; score, pepper, and salt it ; put it on a
tart-dish ; pour over it a little oiled butter, and put it into the
oven to warm througk : cut the other part of the meat into
neat collops ; put a little coulis (see Saucesj into a stewpan ;
make it hot, and add a little mushroom ketchup, and half a
spoonful of eschalot vinegar : put in the collops, set them by
the side of a stove to get not, but do not let them boil; take
the blade-bone out of the oven ; put it on a gridiron to brown,
and put the hash on the dish, and the blade-bone on the middle
of the dish.
Lamb's Head minced.
CHOP the head in halves, and blanch it with the liver, heart.,
and lights : clean the brains in warm water, dip them in yolk
F
66. STEWS AND HASHES.
of egg, grated bread, and chopped parsley, seasoned with
white pepper and salt ; and whilst the head is blanching, fry
them in boiling lard, and drain. Chop the heart, &c. and
add a little parsley and lemon-peel, chopped very fine, sea-
soned with white pepper and salt ; stew in some cullis till ten-
der. Wash the head over with yolk of egg, strew over grated
bread, seasoned with white pepper and salt, and bake gently
till very tender. Serve up, having browned the head with
a salamander, put the mince under it, and the brains round
it, with rashers of broiled bacon.
Ox Palates for Made Dishes.
STEW them till tender, which must be done by putting them
into cold water, and letting them stew softly over a gentle
fire, till they are as tender as you wish. Then take off the
two skins, cut them in pieces, and put them into either your
made dish or soup, with cocks-combs and artichoke bottoms
cut small.
Neats Tongues whole.
PUT two tongues in water just sufficient to cover them, and
let them stew two hours. Then peel them, and put them in
again with a pint of strong gravy, half a pint of white wine,
a bundle of sweet herbs, a little pepper and salt, some mace,
cloves, and whole pepper, tied in a muslin rag ; -a spoonful
of capers chopped, turnips and carrots sliced, and a piece of
butter rolled in flour. Let all stew together very softly over a
slow fire for two hours, and then take out the spice and sweet
herbs, and send the dish to table.
Venison hashed.
TAKE the part least done of ready dressed venison, cut it
in slices, and put them into a stewpan ; then pass a bit of
fresh butter and flour, and chopped eschalots, over a slow fire
for ten minutes, and add to them half a pint of port wine,
two spoonsful of browning, a pint and -an half of veal stock,
its own gravy, a little grated lemon-peel, cayenne pepper,
salt, and lemon-juice. Season to the taste ; boil all together
for a quarter of an hour,-- and strain through a tamis on the
venison : let it simmer till perfectly hot. Or cut the venison
into neat thin slices, as near the shape of a cutlet as the meat
will admit; lay the venison in a stewpan round the sides, like
cutlets on a dish ; put the gravy belonging to the venison in
the stewpan, together with a quarter of a pint of stock (see
Sauces) ; sprinkle with pepper and salt, adding a little cayenne :
cut a sheet of paper to the size of the stewpan, and put it
STEWS AND HASHES. C7
over the meat to keep the steam in while it is warming by the
side of the stove ; put the trimmings and lean pieces into
another stewpan, with two large onions sliced, three clores,
a faggot of sweet herbs, a pint of stock, a table spoonful of
browning, and a glass of port wine: let the stewpan simmer
for two hours ; then strain through a tamis, and skirn.off the
fat ; put an ounce of butter into the stewpan, and set it on
the fire to melt; when melted, put as much flour as will dry
up the butter ; stir over the fire for a few minutes, then strain
through a tamis into the stewpan containing the venison, and
Jet it simmer till hot.
Mutton Venison.
SKIN and bone a loin of fine old wether mutton ; after re-
moving the suet, put it into a cold stewpan for one night,
with the bones round it, and pour over it a pint of port wine
and a quart of water : the following day, put it over the fire,
together with the bones, laying the fat side downwards, and
adding one eschalot, one blade of mace, a little parsley,
marjoram, six pepper-corns, and a little lemon-peel: after
stewing an hour, turn the fat side uppermost, and when
enough, take up the meat, hold a salamander over it, skim
off the fat, and strain the gravy.
Turkies or Fowls.
WHEN you stew a turkey or a fowl, put four clean skewers
at the bottom, and lay your turkey or fowl thereon. Put in a
quart of gravy, a bunch of celery cut small and washed very
clean, and two or three blades of mace. Let it stew gently
till there remain only ftnough for iauce, and then add a large
piece of butter rolled in flour, two spoonsful of red wine, the
same quantity of ketchup, and a sufficient quantity of pepper
and salt to season it. Lay your turkey or fowl in the dish,
pour the sauce over it, and send it to table.
Turkey stewed brown.
BONE your turkey, and fill it with forcemeat, made in the
following manner : Take the flesh of a fowl, half a pound of
veal, the flesh of two pigeons, and a pickled or dried tongue
peeled. Chop these all together, and beat them in a mortar,
with the marrow of a beef bone, or a pound of the fat from a
loin of veal. Season it with a little pepper and salt, two or
three blades of mace, as many cloves, and half a nutmeg
dried at a great distance from the fire, and pounded. Mix all
these well together, and fill your turkey with it. Then put
it into a little pot, that will just hold it, having first laid four
68 STEWS AND HASHES.
or five skewers at the bottom of the pot, to prevent the turkey
sticking to it. Put in a quart of good beef and veal gravy, in
which sweet herbs and spice have been boiled, and cover it
close. When it has stewed half an hour, put in a glass of
white wine, a spoonful of ketchup, a large spoonful of pickled
mushrooms, and a few fresh ones, if in season ; a few truffles
and morels, and a small piece of butter rolled in flour. Cover
close, and let it stew half an hour longer. Get little French
rolls ready fried, and get some oysters and strain the liquor
from them. Then put the oysters and liquor into a saucepan,
with a blade of mace, a little white wine, and a piece of but-
ter rolled in flour. Let them stew thick, and then fill the
loaves. Lay the turkey in the dish, and pour the sauce over
it. If there is any fat on the gravy, take it off, and lay the
loaves on each side of the turkey, but if you have no loaves,
garnish with lemon, and make use of oysters dipped in bat-
ter and fried.
Stewed Chickens.
TAKE two fine chickens, and half boil them. Then take
them up in a pewter dish, and cut them up, separating every
joint one from the other, and taking out the breast bones.
If the fowls do not produce liquor sufficient, add a few spoons-
ful of the water in which they were boiled, and put in a blade
of mace, and a liitle salt. Cover it close with another dish,
and set it over a stove or chafing dish of coall?. Let it stew
till the chickens are enough, and then send them hot to the
table.
Fowl stewed in Pice.
TAKE a fowl and half boil it in a moderate quantity of wa-
ter : boil a quarter of a pound of rice, which, together with
the fowl and a pint of veal gravy, must be put into a stew-
pan: add a blade of mace, and season with white pepper and
salt.
Geese Giblets.
CUT the neck in four pieces, and the pinions in two, and
clean well, and slice the gizzard. Let them stew in two
quarts of water or mutton broth, with a bundle of sweet herbs,
a few pepper corns, three or four cloves, an anchovy, an
onion, and a spoonful of ketchup. When the giblets feel
tender, put in a spoonful of cream, thicken it with flour and
butter, lay sippets round it, and serve up in a soup dish.
Giblets stewed plain.
CUT two pay: of giblets into pieces of two inches long;
then blanch them, trim the bones from the ends, and wash
STEWS AND HASHES. 69
the giblets: drain them dry, put them in a stewpan with
half a pint of stock (see Sauces), cover close, and simmer over
the fire till nearly done ; then add good seasoned cullis (see
Sauces), and stew till tender.
Giblets stewed with Pease.
PIIOCEED as above, but instead of cullis, take a pint of
shelled young green pease, and mash them in a stewpan with
a little fresh butter and salt, till three parts done : then add
some cullis, and the giblets, and stew them till tender,
Pheasants,
STEW your pheasant in veal gravy, and let it stew till there
is just enough liquor left for sauce. Then skim it, and put
in artichoke bottoms parboiled, a little beaten mace, and white
pepper and salt enough to season it, with a glass of white
wine. Thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour, if not
already thick enough. Squeeze in a little lemon ; then pour
the sauce over the pheasant, and put some forcemeat balls
into the dish. A good fowl, trussed with the head on, like a
pheasant, will eat equally as well.
Woodcocks and Partridges.
YOUR woodcock must be cut up as for eating, and the
entrails worked very fine with the back of a spoon. Mix with
them a spobnful of red wine, the same quantity of water, and
half a spoonful of eschalot vinegar ; roll a piece of butter in
flour, and put all into your tossing-pan. Shake it over the
fire till it boil, then put in your bird, and when thoroughly
hot, lay it in your dish with sippets round, and strain the sauce
over it. A partridge is dressed in the same manner.
Duck stewed.
You may lard it or not, as you like. Half roast it, and
then put it into a stewpan, with a pint or more of good gravy,
a quarter of a pint of red wine, onion chopped small, a spoon-
ful of eschalot vinegar, a piece of lemon-peel, cayenne and salt
Stew it gently, close cover it till tender. Take out the duck
from the sauce, boil it up quick, strain and pour over the
duck ; add truffles and morels, if agreeable.
Duck stewed with Green Pease.
HALF roast a duck ; put it into a stewpan with a pint of
good gravy, a little mint, and three or four leaves of sage
cut small. Cover up close, and let the duck continue in the
pan fop half an hour. Put a pint of green pease boiled a*.
70 STEWS AND HASHES.
for eating, into the pan, after having thickened the gravy
Serve up, pouring the gravy and pease upon the duck.
Hashed Turkeys, Fowls, and Rabbits.
CUT either of the above very neatly into pieces, and put
it into a stewpan : into another stewpan put a piece of butter
rolled in flour, and some chopped onions or eschalots; cover
close and stew for ten minutes : add veal stock (see Sauces J,
half a pint ; lemon pickle, one spoonful ; walnut ketchup,
two spoonsful ; browning, one spoonful ; boil for ten minutes,
and strain into the stewpan containing the hash: let this sim-
mer till enough ; and serve with grilled fowl round it.
Wild Ducks hashed.
HAVING cut up your duck as for eating, put it in a tossing-
pan, with a spoonful of good gravy, the same of red wine,
an eschalot sliced exceedingly thin, and a tea spoonful of
garlic vinegar. When it has boiled two or three minutes,
lay the duck in the dish, and pour the gravy over it. You
may add a little browning ; but remember that the gravy must
not be thickened.
Hares hashed.
HARES are hashed in the same manner as venison.
Jugged Hare.
CUT your hare into little pieces, and lard them here and
there with little slips of bacon. Season them with a little
pepper a**d salt, and put them into an earthen jug, with a
blade ni- two of mace, an onion stuck with cloves, and a
bundle*of sweet herbs. Cover the jug close, that nothing may
get in j set it in a pot of boiling water, and three hours will
do it. Then turn it out into the dish, take out the onion and
sweet herbs, and send it hot to table. As to the larding, .you
may omit it, if you please. Or, case the hare, cut off the
shoulders and legs, and the back in three pieces. Lard
them well with fat bacon, and put them into a stewpot with
the trimmings. Add to them allspice, mace, whole pepper, a
little of each; a small clove of garlic or a spoonful of garlic
vinegar, three onions, two bay leaves, and a small bundle of
parsley, thyme and savory, tied together; a quart of veal
stock, and three gills of port wine : let it simmer till nearly
done ; strain the gravy, skim off the fat, adding two spoons-
ful of browning, cayenne, salt, and lemon juice, and thicken
with butter rolled in flour : put in the hare, 'and simmer it till
sufficiently done.
STEWS AND HASHES. 71
4
Stewed Peas and Lettuce.
PUT a quart of green peas, two large cabbage-lettuces, cut
small across, and \vashed very clean, into a stewpan, with a
quart of gravy, and stew them till tender. Put in some but-
ter rolled in flour, a spoonful of essence of ham, and season
with pepper and salt. As soon as they are of a proper thick-
ness, dish them up.
Pease stewed for Sauce.
To a quart of shelled young green pease add two ounces
of fresh butter, a very little sifted sugar, and some salt: put
them into a stewpan, cover close, simmer till nearly done,
then add some good seasoned cullis (see Sauces) , and stew
them till tender. They may be served with lamb, veal, or
chickens.
Cucumbers.
TAKE fresh gathered cucumbers, pare them, and cut them
into slices : put them into a stewpan, and add a little salt,
vinegar, and an onion, simmer over a fire till nearly done and
the liquor consumed : or fry them with a bit of fresh butter,
and add a strong cullis (see Sauces), letting the cucumbers
stew till sufficiently done.
Mushrooms (brown).
WITH a knife, clean a pottle of fresh mushrooms, put them
into water, and when stewed, take them out with a small tin
slice : put them into a stewpan with two ounces of fresh-butter,
a little salt, some white pepper, a tea spoonful of essence of
anchovy, and the juice of half a lemon ; cover the stewpan
close, put it over the fire, and let it boil for five minutes :
thicken with a little flour and water ; add a spoonful of brown-
ing, two spoonsful of port wine, and stew gently for five
minutes.
Mushrooms (white).
PROCEED as above, only instead of browning, and port wine,
add a gill of good cream.
Sorrel.
TAKE some sorrel, and after being well washed and chop-
ped, put it into a stewpan with a slice of ham, and a bit of but-
ter : when stewed, squeeze gently, adding some stock (see
Sauces) , a spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a tea spoonful of
vinegar, two tea spoonsful of lemon-pickle, a bit of butter,
71 STEWS AND HASHES.
and a lump of sugar: stew gently, and aftei' taking out the
harn, and chopping the sorrel smooth with a wooden-spoon,
add a little more stock, and season with Afhite pepper and
salt.
Spinage.
MAY be stewed in the same way, and when there is a
scarcity of sorrel, may be made to nearly resemble it in fla-
vour, by squeezing in a sufficiency of lemon-juice to render
it acidulous: or, it may be stewed with a few spoonsful of
water, drained, and squeezed: returned into the stewpan after
being well beaten, adding veal stock, cream, white pepper and
salt : serve with poached eggs.
Artichoke bottoms.
BOIL six artichokes till half done ; then take the leaves and
choke away, trim the bottoms neatly ; put them into a stew-
pan, with half a pint of veal stock (see Sauces), a little salt
and lemon juice, and stew gently till done : serve up with
benshamelle over them. See Sauces. ^
Endive.
TAKE white endive, and put it into a stewpan of cold
water; when it boils take it off, and throw into cold water for
an hour : take it out of the water, and squeeze very dry ; lay
it in a stewpan, covering it with weak stock (see Sauces ) t
and let it boil till the stock is reduced : if intended to be
brown, add coulis ; if white, add benshamelle. See Sauces.
Chardoons.
CUT them about six inches long, string them, and stew
them till tender. Then take them out, flour them, and fry
them in butter till they are brown. Serve, with melted but-
ter. Or you may tie them up in bundles, and boil them like
asparagus. Put a toast under them, and pour a little melted
butter over them.
Muscles.
HAVING washed your muscles very clean from the sand in
two or three waters, put them into a stewpan, and cover them
close. Let them stew till the shells are opened, and then take
them out one by one, and pick them out of the shells. Be
sure to look under the tongue to see if there be a crab, and if
you find one, throw away that muscle. Having picked them
all clean, put them into a saucepan, and to a quart of muscles
put half a pint of the liquor strained through a sieve; add a
STEWS AND HASHES. 73
few blades of mace, a small piece of butter rolled in flour,
and let them stew. Lay some toasted bread round the dish,
and pour in the muscles.
Carp and Tench.
CARP and tench may be stewed in the following manner :
gut and scale your carp and tench, and having dredged them
with flour, fry them in dripping, or good suet, till they are
brown. Put them into a stewpan, with a quart of water, the
like quantity of port wine, a large spoonful of lemon-pickle,
the same of browning, and the like of walnut .ketchup : add
a little mushroom powder, a proper quantity of cayenne pep-
per, a large onion stuck with cloves, a spoonful of garlic
vinegar, and a stick of horse-radish. Cover your pan close,
that none of the steam may escape, and let them stew gently
over a stove fire, till the gravy is reduced to barely the quan-
tity sufficient to cover them in the dish. Then take them out,
and put them on the dish you intend to serve them up in.
Put the gravy on the fire, and having thickened it with a
large piece of butter, and some flour, boil it a little, and strain
it over your fish. Or, having scaled the carp, and cleaned
the tench, dredge them with flour, and fry in dripping.
When fried, put the fish into a stewpan with some good
gravy, a few anchovies, a bunch of thyme and sweet herbs,
a little mace, four spoonsful of ketchup, two spoonsful of
browning, and a small slice of onion : stew till nearly enough ;
take up the fish into another stesypan, strain the gravy, skim
off the fat, and having added half a pint of port wine, pour on
the fish ; stew till enough, thickening with flour and butter.
Carp stewed white.
HAVING scaled, gutted, and washed your carp, put them
into a stewpan, with two quarts of water, half a pint of white
wine, a little pepper, salt, and whole mace, a bunch of sweet
herbs, two onions, and a stick of horse-radish. Cover the
pan close, and let it stand an hour and a half over a stove.
Put a gill of white wine into a saucepan, with an onion, two
anchovies chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of butter rolled
in flour, a little lemon peel, and half a pint of veal gravy.
Having boiled them a few minutes, add the yolks of two eggs,
mixed with a little cream, and when it boils, squeeze in the
uice of half a lemon. Pour this hot upon the fish, and serve
^thern up.
Barbd.
TAKE a large barbel, scale, gut, and wash it in vinegar and
salt, and afterwards in water. Put it into a stewpan, with eel
74 STKWS AND HASHES,
broth enough to cover it. Let it stew gently, then add some
cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, white pepper and salt. Let
them stew gently, till the fish is done ; then take it out,
thicken the sauce with butter and flour, and pour it over the
fish.
Lobsters.
BOIL the lobsters, and pick the meat clean from the shells.
Take a pint of water, a little mace, a little whole pepper, and
the shells of the lobsters. Let them boil till all their goodness
is out ; then strain off the liquor, and put it into a saucepan.
Put in the lobsters with a bit of butter rolled in flour, half
a pint of veal gravy, a spoonful or two of white wine, a
spoonful of essence of anchovy, and a little juice of lemon.
"Let them boil, and then lay them in the dish.
Lampreys and Eels.
HAVING skinned and gutted your lampreys, season them
well with salt, pepper, a little lemon peel shred fine, mace,
cloves, and nutmeg. Cut some thin slices of butter into the
bottom of your saucepan, and put your fish into the pan, with
half a pint of good gravy, a gill of white wine or cyder, the
same of claret, a spoonful of essence of anchovy, a bundle of
marjorum, winter savory, and thyme, and an onion sliced.
Stew them over a slow fire, and keep the lampreys turning
till quite tender ; then take them out, and thicken the sauce
with the yolk of an egg, or a little butter rolled in flour, and
having poured it over the fish, send them up to table.
Eels may be stewed in the same manner.
Flounders, Plaice, and Soles.
THESE three different species of fish may be stewed in one
and the same manner. Half fry them in butter till of a fine
brown ; then take them up, put to your butter a quart of
water, two anchovies, and an onion sliced, and boil them
slowly a quarter of an hour. Put your fish in again, with two
anchovies, and stew gently twenty minutes. Take out the fish,
put in a spoonful of lemon pickfe, and thicken the sauce with
butter and flour; having given it a boil, strain it through a
tamis over the fish, and serve up with oyster, cockle, or shrimp
sauce.
Stewed Cod.
CUT some slices of cod, and season with nutmeg, pepper,
and salt: put them into a stewpan with a gill of water, and
two gills of gravy : cover close, and after stewing a short time,
add half a pint of white wine, some lemon juice, a few
oysters with their liquor, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and
STEWS AND HASHES. 75
two or three blades of mace: the fish will take a quarter of an
hour to stew, when they are to be served up, with the sauce
over them.
Stewed Cod's Head and Shoulders, in the Scotch manner.
BOIL the fish till nearly enough, take it out ; put it in a
stewpan with two bottles of strong ale; two ounces of butter;
one spoonful of essence of anchovy ; one spoonful of lernon
pickle; a pint of beef gravy; two onions; a few oysters ;
white pepper and salt : let it stew till the fish is done ; and
strain the sauce over it.
Holibut may be done in the same manner, adding force-
meat balls, made of a part of the fish chopped, shred thyme,
parsley, and marjorum, a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, rolled
in egg, and fried butter.
To make Water-Souclice, of Perch, Plaice, or Flounders.
WASH clean, and cut the fins close off the fish ; take three
pints of water, a few of the fish, some clean picked and
washed parsley, parsley-roots washed and sliced, and stew
till quite tender : pulp them through a sieve: put the liquor
and pulp into a stewpan, together with the fish you mean to
water-souchee, adding more parsley and parsley-roots as be-
fore, a little white pepper and salt: stew till done, and serve
up with the liquor, parsley, and roots.
Stewed Oysters.
OYSTERS for stewing, should be of the largest kind : put
the oysters in their own liquor on to blanch, and as soon as
they boil, take them up, lay them on a cloth to dry, and
strain the liquor through a tamis : melt a bit of butter in a
stewpan, and when melted, add a little flour and their liquor:
stir till it boil, and add half a glass of white wine, a little
beaten mace, white pepper and salt, and half a pint of coulis
(see Sauces) : boil for a few minutes; put in the oysters, and
simmer for a minute or two : serve with sippets.
Escaloped Oysters.
BLANCH the oysters, beard them, and strain the liquor; put
a bit of butter into a stewpan, and when melted, add as much
flour as will dry up the butter : now add the oyster liquor and
a little good stock (see Sauces}, half a spoonful of essence of
anchovy, a little grated nutmeg, white pepper, and salt: boil
for a few minutes ; put in the oysters to heat through, and
fill the escalop-shells, having previously buttered them : strew
76 RAGOUTS.
grated bread over them, and drop oiled butter on the top : put
them into an oven, or Dutch oven, and if not sufficiently
brown, hold the salamander over them.
Prawns, Shrimps, or Crawfish.
TAKE about two quarts, and pick out their tails. Bruise
the bodies, and put them into half a pint of white wine or
cyder, with a blade of mace, and some coulisY^e Sauces}.
Let them stew a quarter of an hour, then stir together, and
strain : wash out the saucepan, and put tflnt the strained li-
quor and tails. Grate in a little nutmeg, add salt, white pep-
per, and a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour. Shake
all together ; cut a thin toast round a quartern loaf, toast
brown, on both sides, cut into six pieces, lay close together in
the bottom of your dish, and pour your fish and sauce over it.
Send it hot to table.
CHAPTER IX.
RAGOUTS.
Afore Quarter of House Lamb.
V^UT off the knuckle bone, and take off the skin. Lard it all
over with bacon, and fry of a nice light brown. Then put it
into a stewpan, and just cover over with mutton gravy, a bunch
of sweet herbs, some pepper, salt, beaten mace, and a little
whole pepper. Cover close, and stew for half an hour. Pour
out the liquor, and take care to keep the lamb hot. Strain
off the gravy, and have ready half a pint of oysters fried
brown. Pour all the fat from them, add them to the gravy,
with two spoonsful of red wine, a few mushrooms, and a bit
of butter rolled in flour. Simmer all together, with the juice
of half a lemon. Lay the lamb in the dish, and pour the sauce
over it.
Beef.
TAKE a large piece of flank of beef, which is fat at the top,
or any piece that is fat at the top and has no bones in it, even
the rump will answer the purpose. Strip the bone very
nicely, flour the meat well, and fry it brown in a large stew-
pan, with a little butter ; then cover with stock (see Sauces),
adding a pint of port wine, two spoonsful of walnut ketchup,
an ounce of truffles and morels, cut small, and some fried or
RAGOUTS. 11
dried mushrooms also cut small. Cover close, and let it stew
till the sauce be rich and thick. Then have ready some ar-
tichoke bottoms quartered, and a few pickled mushrooms.
Give the whole a simmer, and when your meat is tender, and
your sauce rich, lay the meat into a dish, and pour the sauce
over it. You may add a sweetbread cut in six pieces, a
palate stewed tender, and cut into little pieces, some cocks-
combs, and a few forcemeat balls.
Ox Palates.
CLEAN them well, and boil very tender.
Calf's Feet.
BOIL the feet, bone and cut the meat in slices, brown the
frying-pan, and put them in some good beef gravy, with mo-
rels, truffles, and pickled mushrooms, the yolks of four eggs
boiled hard, some salt, and a little butter rolled in flour.
.
Breast of Veal.
HAVING half roasted a breast of veal, bone it, and put it
into a tossing-pan, with a quart of veal gravy, an ounce of
morels, and the same quantity of truffles. Stew till tender,
and just before you thicken the gravy, put in a few oysters,
some pickled mushrooms, and pickled cucumbers, all cut in
small square pieces, and the yolks of four eggs, boiled hard.
Cut your sweetbread in pieces, and fry of a light brown. Dish
up your veal, and pour the gravy hot upon it.
Neck of Veal.
HAVING cut a neck of veal into steaks, flatten them with a
rolling-pin. Season them with salt, pepper, cloves, and mace ;
lard them with bacon, lemon-peel, and thyme, and dip them
into the yolks of eggs. Make a sheet of strong foolscap paper
up at the four corners, in the form of a dripping-pan. Pin up
the corners, butter the paper, and also the gridiron, and set it
over a charcoal fire. Put in your meat, and let it do lei-
surely, keeping it basting and turning to keep in the gravy.
When enough, have ready half a pint of strong cullis (see
Sauces), season high, arid put in mushrooms and pickles,
forcemeat balls dipped in the yolks of eggs, oysters stewed
and fried, to lay round and at the top of your dish, and then
serve it up. If for a brown ragout, put in red wine ; but if for
a white one, put in white wine, with the yolks of eggs beat
up with two or three spoonsful of cream.
"i S RAGOUTS.
Sweetbreads (brown).
TAKE throat sweetbreads, previously blanched and cut into
slices ; morels blanched and cut in halves ; stewed mush-
rooms ; egg balls (see Sauces) ; artichoke bottoms or Jerusa-
lem artichokes, parboiled and cut in pieces ; green truffles
pared and cut in thick slices, and stewed in stock till nearly
reduced ; and cocks-combs almost boiled ; mix all together,
and add coulis (see Sauces), half a pint; port wine, four
spoonsful; walnut ketchup, two spoonsful; browning, two
spoonsful ; cayenne and salt ; stew gently for a quarter of au
hour, and serve.
Sweetbreads (white).
IN a stewpan, put stewed mushrooms, egg balls, slices ot
blanched throat sweetbreads, cocks-combs nearly boiled, four
spoonsful of white wine, a tea spoonful of garlic vinegar, and
half a pint of consume^ stew ten minutes, strain the sauce
into another stewpan, and reduce over the fire to half the
quantity : beat up the yolks of two eggs, a gill of cream, a
little mace, white pepper, and salt ; and strain through a sieve
to the sweetbreads, c. : simmer for five minutes (but do not
boil ) , and serve.
Leg of Mutton.
TAKE off all the skin and fat, and cut it very thin the right
way of the grain ; then butter your stewpan, and shake some
Hour into it. Slice half a lemon, and half an onion, cut them
very small, and add a little bundle of sweet herbs, and a blade
of mace. Put these and your meat into the pan, stir a
minute or two, and then put in six spoonsful of gravy. Have
ready an anchovy, minced small, and mixed with some but-
ter and flour. Stir it all together for six minutes, and then
dish it up.
Goose.
BREAK the breast bone of the goose, and make it quite flat,
When it is skinned, dip it into boiling water; season with
pepper, salt, and a little mace beaten to powder: lard, and
then flour it all over. Take near a pound of beef suet cut
small, put it into a stewpan according to the size of the goose;
when melted, and boiling hot, put in the goose. When brown
all over, add to it a quart of beef stock (see Sauces), boiling
hot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, a few cloves,
some whole pepper, two or three small onions, and a bay leaf!
RAGOUTS. 19
Cover very close, and stew very softly. An hour will do it,
if a small one ; if a large one, an hour and a half. Make the
following ragout for it : some turnips and carrots cut as for a
harrico of-mutton, and some onions, all boiled enongh, and
half a pint of rich beef stock. Put them all into astewpan,
with some pepper, salt, and a piece of butter rolled in flour.
Let them stew a quarter of an hour. Take the goose out of
the stewpan when done, drain well from the liquor it was
stewed in, serve in a dish, and pour the ragout over it.
Pigs Feet and Ears.
HAVING stewed the feet and ears in good veal stock, split tjae
feet down the middle, and cut the ears in narrow slices : dip
them in yolk of egg and grated bread, and fry brown.
Put a little veal stock in a tossing-pan, with a tea-spoonful of
lemon-pickle, a large one of mushroom ketchup, the same of
browning, and a little salt. Thicken with a lump of butter
rolled in flour, and put in your feet and ears. Let them boil
gently, and when enough, lay your feet in the middle of the
dish, and the ears round them ; then strain your gravy, pour
it over them.
Livers,
TAKE as many livers as you would have for your dish. The
liver of a turkey, and six fowl livers, will make a pretty dish.
Pick the galls from them, and throw them into cold water.
Put the livers in a saucepan with a quarter of a pint of stock,
a spoonful of mushrooms, either pickled or fresh, the same
quantity of ketchup, and a piece of butter the size of a nut-
meg, rolled in flour. Season to your taste with pepper and
salt, and let them stew gently ten minutes. In the meantime
broil the turkey's liver nicely, and lay it in the middle, with
the stewed livers round it. Pour the sauce over all, and
serve.
Mushrooms.
PEEL some large mushrooms, and take out the inside.
Broil them on a gridiron, and when the outside is brown, put
them in a tossing-pan, with stock (see Sauces), sufficient to
cover them : let them stand ten minutes, add a spoonful of
port wine, the same of bVowning, and a very little eschalot
vinegar. Thicken with butter and flour, and boil a little.
Serve it up with sippets round the dish.
Artichoke Bottoms.
LET them lie in warm water for two or three hours chang-
ing the water. Put to them some good gravy, mushroom
80 RAGOUTS.
ketchup, or powder, cayenne and salt. Thicken with a little
flour, and boil all together.
Asparagus.
SCRAPE one hundred of grass very clean, and throw it into
cold water; then cut it as far as it is good and green, about
an inch long, and take two ends of endive, clean picked and
washed, and cut very small ; a young lettuce, clean washed,
and cut small, and a large onion peeled and cut small. Put a
quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, and when melt-
ed, throw in the above ingredients. Toss them about, and
fry them ten minutes; then season with a little pepper and
salt, shake in a little flour, toss them about, and pour in half
a pint of veal stock. Let them stew till the sauce is very
thick and good, and then pour all into your dish. Garnish the
dish with a few of the little tops of the grass.
Cucumbers.
TAKE two cucumbers and two onions : slice and fry them
in a little butter : drain them in a sieve, and put them into a
saucepan ; add six spoonsful of stock, two of white wine, and
a blade of mace. Let them stew five or six minutes ; and take
a piece of butter the size of a walnut, rolled in flour, a little
salt and cayenne pepper. Shake them together, and when
thick, serve up.
Cauliflowers.
WASH a large cauliflower very clean, and pick it into pieces
as for pickling : take brown cullis, and stew till tender : sea-
son with pepper and salt, and put them into the dish with the
sauce over them.
Muscles.
MELT a little butter in a stewpan, take the muscles out of
their shells, fry them a minute with a little chopped parsley ;
shake over them a little flour, put in a little cream, white
pepper, salt, nutmeg, and lemon juice. Boil them up. If they
are to be brown, put good gravy instead of cream.
Another Method.
WHEN the muscles are well cleaned, stew them without
water till they open. Take from them the shells, and save
the liquor. Put into a stewpan a bit of butter, with a few
mushrooms chopped, a little parsley, and a little grated le-
mon peel : stir this a little about, put in some stock, with pep-
per and salt ; thicken with a little flour, boil it up, put in the
FfclCANDEAUS. 81
muscles with a little liquor, and let them be hot. When mus-
cles are stewed, throw among them half a crown, or any piece
of silver; if that be not discoloured, the muscles may be eaten
w tn the greatest safety, without taking any thing out of them,
as is the usual method.
Oysters.
BLANCH two dozen large oysters, and having preserved the
liquor, wash and beard them : put into a stewpan, adding
stewed mushrooms ; a throat sweetbread, blanched and cut
into slices; the liquor strained from the sediment; a quarter
of a pint of strong veal stock (see Sauces} ; two spoonfuls of
ketchup; one spoonful of lemon pickle; cayenne, and salt
to the palate: thicken with butter and flour; add a spoonful
of browning; and simmer gently for ten minutes.
CHAPTER X,
FRICANDEAUS.
.T ROM a fillet of veal, cut a long or round piece ; flatten with
a chopper; make an incision in the underside; stuff with
forcemeat containing oysters (see Sauces) ; fasten up the in-
cision with a small and clean wire skewer ; lard neatly with
fat bacon, and put into a stewpan with a little weak stock ;
stew till brown and tender: into another stewpan put carrots,
onions, turnips, celery, all cut small ; allspice, two cloves, and
a little pepper : over these put some slices of fat bacon ; then
put in the fricandeau, with some good veal stock (see Sauces ) :
let the whole simmer till the veal is exceedingly tender, and
the gravy is nearly reduced. Have ready some stewed sorrel
(see Stewing), and serve the veal upon it: or for want of
sorrel, take stewed spinage (see Stewing) , and make it a little
acid with lemon juice.
Beef.
CUT some slices of beef five or six inches long, and half an
inch thick ; lard them with bacon, dredge with flour, and set
it in a Dutch oven before a brisk fire to brown : ihen put
it in a stewpan with a quart of good stock (see Sauces J, some
truffles, morels, and half a lemon cut in slices; stew half
an hour ; add one spoonful of ketchup, one spoonful of brown-
ing, and a little cayenne pepper : thicken with butter and
flour : serve, and lay over it, forcemeat balls, (see Sauces}, and
hard-boiled yolks of eggs round it.
82 PRICASEES.
Mutton.
FROM the leg, cut long slices with the grain \ flatten with
a chopper ; and having larded it with fat bacon, put it in a
stewpan with a pint of stock (see Sauces) , two spoonfuls of
walnut ketchup ; a spoonful of eschalot vinegar ; a gill of port
wine ; some onions, carrots, turnips, and celery, all cut small;
cover close and stew till very tender, and all the liquor is
nearly reduced: take up the mutton, glaze it (see Sauces J ,
and serve with stewed sorrel or spinage. See Stewing.
N. B. All lardings should be put into the oven a few mi-
nutes before they are glazed.
Fowl.
BONE a large fowl without cutting the skin, and singe it ;
lard it, and lay the bottom of a stewpan with slices of bacon ;
upon the bacon lay the bones of the fowl and any other
trimmings, and upon these, the fowl ; put in a pint of weak
stock (see Sauces}, a few bay leaves, onions, a faggot of sweet
herbs ; cover the fowl with slices of bacon, arjd over that a
sheet of paper cut to the size of the stewpan : set it on a stove,
put fire on the top of the stewpan, and simmer slowly for one
hour and a half: take it up, put into an oven for a few
minutes to raise the larding ; glaze (see Sauces) , and serve
up on stewed endive. See Stewing.
Turtle
MAY be dressed in .the same manner as veal, having a little
white wine added to it.
CHAPTER XL
FRICASEES.
Lamb-Stones.
1 AKE what quantity you please of lamb-stones, dip them in
batter, and fry them of a nice brown in hog's lard. Have
ready a little veal stock (see Sauces), and thicken with butter
and flour. Put in a slice of lemon, a little mushroom ket-
chup, a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle, and a little grated nut-
meg. Beat the yolk of an egg and mix with two spoonfuls of
cream. Put in your gravy and keep shaking it over the fire
till it look white and thick ; then put in the lamb-stones, and
give them a shake. When they are properly heated, serve
up, and lay boiled forcemeat balls round them
FRICASEES. 83
Calf's Feet.
BOIL them, take out the long bones, split, and put them
into a stewpan with some veal stock, and a very little white
wine. Beat the yolks of two or three eggs with a little cream,
and put to them a liitle grated nutmeg, some salt, and a piece
of butter. Stir till of a proper thickness.
Swettbreads (white).
SCALD, and cut them in long slices; thicken some veal
stock with a bit of butter mixed with flour, a little cream,
some grated lemon peel, and nutmeg, white pepper, salt, and
a little mushroom powder and liquor. Stew this a little time,
put in the sweetbreads, and simmer them, shaking the pan.
Squeeze in a little lemon juice.
Sweetbreads (brown).
FIRST scald two or three, and then slice them ; dip them
in the yolk of an egg, mixed with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and
a little flour. Fry them a nice brown ; thicken a little good
stock with some flour; boil it well, and add cayenne, ketchup,
or mushroom powder, and a little juice of lemon. Stew the
sweetbreads in this a few minutes, and garnish with lemon.
Sweetbreads and Palates.
PARBOIL one or two sweetbreads ; stew two or three palates
till very tender ; blanch and cut them in pieces, and slice the
sweetbreads. Dip these in eggs, strew over them very fine
grated bread, seasoned with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a
pounded clove; fry and drain them; thicken some good gravy
with a little flour ; add cayenne, ketchup, and salt, if neces-
sary. Stew them in this about a quarter of an hour ; add a
few pickled mushrooms or lemon-juice ; lamb-stones may be
added, parboiled and fried. Palates do very well alone }
dressed as above, or with the sweetbread roasted, and put in
the middle of the dish.
Ox Palates.
WASH your ox palates in several waters, and lay them in
warm water for half an hour ; then put them in a stewpot, and
cover them with water. Put them in the oven for three or
four hours, take them out, strip off the skins, and cut them into
square pieces. Season with cayenne, salt, mace, and nutmeg .
Mix a spoonful of flour with the yolks of two eggs, dip your
palates into it, and fry till of a light brown. Put them in &
sieve to drain, and have ready half a pint of veal stock, with
a little caper liquor, a spoonful of browning, and a few mush-
rooms. Thicken with butter and flour, pour it hot into your
dish ; then lay on your palates.
02
84- PRICASKES.
Chickens (white}.
CUT them into pieces, and blanch and drain them dry ; put
(hem into a stewpan with a little veal stock (see Sauces ) , a
blade of mace, and an onion : stew gently till three parts done;
add slices of blanched throat sweetbreads ; white button mush-
rooms, stewed ; egg-balls (see Sauces}, and pieces of artichoke
bottoms previously blanched and parboiled; when nearly
stewed, season with white pepper, salt, and lemon juice ;
simmer till done ; take up the chickens ; set the sauce on the
fire till nearly reduced, and add benshamelle (see Sauces}.
Chickens (brown}.
CUT the chickens into pieces ; fry them in a little lard till
of a light brown ; drain them in a cloth very dry ; put them
in a stewpan ; add button rnushrooms stewed, pieces of arti-
choke bottoms previously blanched and parboiled, blanched
truffles, morels, egg balls (see Sauces}, a spoonful of brown-
ing (see Sauces}, and some well seasoned cullis ; stew gently
till done, and serve with fried oysters.
Pulled Chicken.
BOIL a chicken till three parts done, and let it stand till
cold ; take off the skin, cut the white meat into slips, put
them into a stewpan, add a little cream, four spoonsful of
veal stock, a very little grated lemon peel, and pounded
mace, cayenne, salt, one eschalot chopped, a little lemon juice,
and a spoonful of consume (see Sauces} ; thicken it with a
little flour and water, set over the fire for ten minutes to sim-
mer ; in the meantime score the legs and rump, season with
pepper and salt, broil of a good colour, and serve them up
over the pulled chicken.
Pulled Fowl.
PROCEED as with the chicken ; but instead of thickening
with flour and water, add, five minutes before it is to be
served up, a leason (see Sauces} of two eggs.
Pulled Turkey.
PROCEED as with the chicken ; but instead of thickening
with flour and water, add, ten minutes before it is to be served
up, some benshamelle.
Pigeons.
CUT your pigeons as above described for chickens, and fry
them of a light brown. Put them into some good mutton,
stock, and stew them near half an hour; then put in a slice
of lemon, half an ounce of morels, and a spoonful of brown-
ing. Thicken your gravy, and strain it over your pigeons.
Another method to fricasee pigeons is as follows : take eight
FIUCASEES. 85
pigeons, just killed, and cut them in small pieces. Put them
into a stewpan, with a pint of water, and the same quantity
of claret. Season them with pepper and salt, a blade or two
of mace, an onion, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a large piece
of butter rolled in a little flour. Cover close, and Jet them
stew till there is just enough for sauce. Then take out the
onion and sweet herbs, beat up the yolks of three eggs, grate
a little nutmeg, and with a spoon push the meat to one side
of the pan, and the gravy to the other, and stir in the eggs.
Keep them stirring to prevent their curdling, and when the
sauce is fine and thick, shake all together. Put the meat into
the dish, pour the sauce over it, and have ready some slices
of bacon toasted, and oysters fried : scatter the oysters over
it, and Jay the bacon round it.
Rabbits (white).
PROCEED as directed for chickens; but when nearly stewed,
season with salt, white pepper, and a little lemon juice ; add
a leason (see Sauces) of three eggs; simmer for five minutes,
take care not to let it curdle, and serve up hot, with the mace
and onion taken out.
Rabbits (brown).
MAY be dressed after the manner already described for
chickens brown.
Neafs Tongues.
BOIL your tongues till tender, peel and cut them into slices,
and fry them in fresh butter. Then pour out the butter, put
in as much stock as you may want for sauce, a bundle of
sweet herbs, an onion, some pepper and salt, a blade or two
of mace, and a glass of white wine. Having simmered all
together about half an hour, take out the tongues, strain the
gravy, and put both that and the tongues into the stewpan
again. Beat up the yolks cf two eggs, a little nutmeg grated,
and a small piece of butter rolled in flour. Shake all toge-
ther for four or five minutes, and dish it up.
Tripe (white).
CUT the tripe into small slips, and boil in a little consume
(see Sauces) , till the liquor is nearly reduced ; add a leason
(see Sauces) of two yolks of eggs and cream, salt, cayenne,
and chopped parsley simmer over a slow fire for five
minutes, and serve : or instead of the leason, benshamelle and
chopped parsley may be added.
Tripe (brown).
CUT the tripe into triangular shapes; add mushrooms chop-
ped fine, a little scalded parsley chopped, an anchovy rubbed
through a hair sieve, a spoonful of ketchup, browning, and
white wine, a gill of cullis (see Sauces} , season to the palate
with cayenne, white pepper, and salt ; simmer gently till
done, and serve hot.
Artichoke Bottoms.
THESE may be fricaseed, either dried or pickled ; if dried,
lay them three or four hours in warm water, shifting the water
two or three times : have ready a little cream, and a piece of
fresh butter, stirred together one way over the fire till it is
melted: put in the artichokes, and when hot, serve them up.
Mushrooms.
HAVING peeled and scraped the inside of } r our mushrooms,
throw them into salt and water ; but if buttons, rub them with
flannel: take them out and boil them in water, with some salt
in it, and when tender, put in a little shred parsley, and an
onion stuck with cloves. Toss them up, with a good piece of
butter rolled in flour, and add two spoonfuls of thick cream,
and a little grated nutmeg ; the onion must be taken out before
you send your mushrooms to table. Instead of the parsley,
you may, if you choose, put in a glass of wine.
Skirrets.
HAVING washed the roots well, and boiled them till they
are tender, take off the skin of the roots, and cut them into
slices. Have ready a little cream, a piece of butter rolled in
: flour, the yolk of an egg beaten, a little nutmeg grated, two
or three spoonfuls of white wine, a very little salt, and stir all
together. Put your roots into the dish, and pour the sauce
over them.
Eggs.
BOIL your eggs hard, and take out some of the yolks whole.
Then cut the rest in quarters, yolks and whites together.
Set on some stock, with a little shred thyme and parsley in
it, and give it a boil or two. Then put in your eggs with a
little grated nutmeg, and shake it up with a piece of butter,
till of a proper thickness. Fry artichoke bottoms in thin
slices, and garnish with eggs boiled hard, and shred small.
Eggs, with Onions and Mushrooms.
BOIL the eggs hard, take the yolks out whole, cut the whites
in slips, with some onions and mushrooms, and fry the onions
and mushrooms. Throw in the whites, and turn them about
a httle. If there is any fat pour it off. Flour the onions, &c
put to it a little good stock, boil this up, and add pepper and
salt, and the yolks.
FRICASEES. 87
Cod Sounds.
CLEAN them well, and cut them into small pieces. Boil
them tender in milk and water, and put them to drain. Put
them into a clean saucepan, and season them with beaten mace
and grated nutmeg, and a little white pepper and salt. Pour in
a cupful of cream, with a good piece of butter rolled in flour,
and keep shaking it till thick enough.
Soles.
SKIN, gut, and wash your soles very clean, cut off their
heads, and dry your fish in a cloth. Then very carefully cut
the flesh from the bones and fins on both sides, and cut the flesh
longways, and then across, so that each sole may be in eight
pieces. Take the heads and bones, and put them into a sauce-
pan, with a pint of water, a bundle of -sweet herbs, an onion, a
little whole pepper, two or three blades of mace, a little salt, a
small piece of lemon peel, and a crust of bread. Cover close,
and let it boil till half be wasted. Then strain through a fine
sieve, and put it into a stewpan. Put in the soles and with
them half a pint of white wine, a little parsley chopped fine,
a few mushrooms cut small, a little grated nutmeg, and a
piece of butter rolled in flour. Set all together on the fire, but
keep shaking the pan all the while till the fish is enough.
Plaice and Flounders.
RUN your knife all along upon the bone on the back side of
the fish, and raise the flesh on both sides, from the head to
the tail. Then take out the bone clear, and cut your fish in
six collops. Dry it well, sprinkle with salt, dredge them with
flour, and fry them in a pan of hot beef dripping, so that the
fish may be crisp. Take it out of the pan, and keep it warm
before the fire; then clean the pan, and put into it some
minced oysters, and their liquor strained, some white wine, a
little grated nutmeg, and three anchovies. Having "stewed
these up together, put in half a pound of butter, and then
your fish. Toss them well together, dish them on sippets, and
pour the sauce over them.
Skate or Thornback.
HAVING cut the meat clean from the bone, fins, &c. make it
very clean. Then cut it into thin pieces, about an inch broad,
and two inches long, and lay them in your stewpan. To one
pound of the flesh put a quarter of a pint of water, a little
beaten mace, and grated nutmeg ; a small bundle of sweet
herbs, and a little salt. Cover it and let it boil fifteen minutes.
Take out the sweet herbs, put in a quarter of a pint of good
88 MADE DISHES.
cream, a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, rolled in flour,
and a glass of white wine. Keep shaking the pan ail the
time one way, till it is thick and smooth ; then serve.
Fish in general.
Tofricasee fish in general, melt butter according to the
quantity of your fish, and cut your fish in pieces of the length
and breadth of three fingers. Then put them and your but-
ter into a stewpan, and put it on the fire : but take care that
it does not boil too fast, as that may break the fish, and turn
the butter into oil. Turn them often, till enough, having first
put in a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, two or three an-
chovies cut small, a little pepper and salt, some nutmeg, mace,
lemon peel, and two or three cloves ; then put in some claret,
and let them stew altogether. Beat up six yolks of eggs, and
put them in with such pickles as you please, as mushrooms,
capers, and oysters. Shake them well together, that they
may not curdle ; and if you put the spice in whole, take it out
when done. The seasoning ought to be stewed first in a little
water, and the butter melted in that and the wine before you
put your fish in. Jacks eat very well done in this manner.
CHAPTER XII.
MADE DISHES.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
As this is one of the most important chapters in this book,
it may not be improper to give the young cook some general
hints. It is an important point to take care that all the cop-
per-vessels are well tinned, and kept perfectly clean from any
foulness or grittiness. Before you put eggs or cream into
your white sauce, have all your other ingredients well boiled,
and the whole of a proper thickness ; for neither eggs nor
cream will contribute much to thicken it. After you have put
them in, do not stir them with a spoon, nor set your pan on
the fire, for fear it should gather at the bottom, and be lum-
py ; but hold your pan at a proper height from the fire, and
keep shaking it round one way, which will keep the sauce from
curdling; and be particularly cautious that you do not suffer
it tp boU. Remember to take out your collops, meat, or what'
MADE DISHES. 89
ever you are dressing, with a fish slice, and strain your sauce
upon it, which will prevent small bits of meat mixing with
your sauce, and thereby leave it clear and fine. In browning
dishes, be particularly cautious that no fat rioats on the top of
your gravy, which will be the case if you do not properly
skim it. It should be of a fin, 1 bro n, without any one pre-
dominant taste, which must depend on the judicious propor-
tion in the mixture of your various articles of ingredients. . If
you make use of wine, or anchovy, take off its rawness, by
putting it in some time before your dish is ready ; for nothing
injures the reputation of a made dish so much as raw wine, or
fresh anchovy. Be sure to put your fried forcemeat balls to
drain on a sieve, that the fat may run from them ; and never
let them boil in your sauce, as that will soften them and give
them a greasy appearance. To put them in after the meat
is dished up, is indisputably the best method. In almost
every made dish, you may use forcemeat balls, morels, truffles,
artichoke bottoms, and pickled mushrooms; and, in several
made dishes, a roll of forcemeat may supply the place of
balls ; and where it can be used with propriety, it is to be pre-
ferred.
Beef-a-la-mode,
HAVING boned a rump of beef, lard the top with bacon,
and make the following forcemeat : take four ounces of
marrow, the crumb of a penny loaf, a few sweet herbs (hop-
ped small, one clove of garlick, and season with salt, pepper,
and nutmeg ; then beat up the yolks of four eo;gs. mix all
together, and stuff it into the beef where the bone was ex-
tracted, and also in several of the lean parts. Skewer it
round and fasten it properly with a tape. Put it into the pot,
adding a pint of red wine, and tie the pot down with a strong
paper. Put it into the oven for three or four hours, and
when it comes out, if to be eaten hot, skim the fat from
the gravy, and add a spoonful of pickled mushrooms, and half
an ounce of morels. Thicken with flour and butter, serve
up, and pour on your gravy. Garnish it with forcemeat
balls.
Or take a thick flank, and with a sharp knife make holes
deep enough for the following larding: bacon cut into Jong
slices nearly an inch thick, dipped first into vinegar, and after-
wards into black pepper, allspice, a clove, and salt, all finely
powdered; parsley, thyme, marjoram, and chives, shred very
fine : with this larding fill all the holes in the beef ; rub the
remainder of the spices and herbs upon the beef, and bind up
tight with a tape : put the beef into a stewpan with a pint of
y() MADE DISHES.
water, a pint of table beer, four spoonsful of vinegar, four
onions previously roasted, two carrots, one turnip, and two
heads of celery, cut in pieces : stew very gently for six or
eight hours , take up the beef, pull off the tape, skim the
gravy, strain off the herbs, and to the gravy add a glass of
port wine: let it boil five minutes; and serve in a tureen,
pouring it over the beef.
Beef-a-la-royal.
TAKE a brisket of beef, bone it, and with a knife make holes
in it about an inch from each other. Fill one hole with fat
bacon, a second with parsley chopped, and a third with chop-
ped oysters. Let these stuffings be seasoned with pepper,
salt, and nutmeg. U hen the beef is completely stuffed,
pour upon it a pint of wine boiling hot, then dredge it well
with flour, and send it to the oven. Let it remai'i in the oven
better than three hours, and when it comes out, skim off the
fat, strain the gravy over the beef, and serve.
Beef -a-la- daub.
BONE a rump of beef, or take a part of the leg-of-mutton
piece, or a piece of the buttock, and daub either of them with
slips of fat bacon, seasoned with sweet herbs, eschalots, beaten
spices, pepper, and salt: bind it round with tape, and having
put it into a stewpan with a sufficiency of weak stock, braise
till tender (set Sauces); wipe dry, glaze the top, serve up
with the same round it; and either onion, savoy, haricot, or
ashee sauces.
Beef Olives.
TAKE rump-steaks cut rather thin, and having trimmed them
neatly, beat well with a paste-pin ; rub them over with yolk
of egg, and sprinkle them with sweet herbs shred fine, and
seasoned with pepper and salt : roll them up tight, and having
put a little stock at the bottom of a stewpan that will exactly
hold them, lay them in, cover with sheets of fat bacon, and
over them with writing paper: stew them very gently over a
stove till tender, take up the beef, put aside the bacon, strain
and skim the gravy, and to it add a spoonful of ketchup, the
same of port wine, half a pint of sauce tournay (see Sauces},
a spoonful of browning, cayenne pepper, and salt: thicken
with flour ; let it boil, and pour OA'er the beef.
Beef tremblonque.
TIE up closely the fat end of a brisket of beef, and boil it
six hours very gently. Season the water with a little salt,
MADE DISHES. 91
allspice, two onions, two turnips, and a carrot. In the mean-
time, put a piece of butter into a stewpan, and melt it. Then
put in two spoonfuls of flour, and stir till smooth. Put in a
quart of stock, a spoonful of ketchup, the same of browning,
turnips and carrots, and cut them as for harrico of mutton :
stew gently till the roots are tender, and season with pepper
and salt. Skim the fat clean off, put the beef in a dish, and
pour the sauce "over it.
Beef Chops.
TAKE rump-steaks, or the fillet from the under part of a
rump of beef : cut into small thin slices, fry in butter till half
done : add slices of pickled cucumbers, small mushrooms
stewed, oysters blanched, and some well seasoned coulis (see
Sauces) : stew till tender.
Fillet of Beef.
FROM a small rump of beef, take out the bone, and force
the cavity with the following forcemeat : lean veal, ham, and
fat bacon cut in pieces; chopped parsley, thyme, eschalots,
blanched oysters, pepper, salt, lemon juice, a few cleaned
mushrooms, grated bread, and yolks of eggs : turn it round
like a fillet of veal ; and having covered it with paper, half
roast it : put it in a stewpan with some good stock ; simmer
till tender and the gravy is nearly consumed, take up the beef,
wipe dry, and glaze: skim the gravy, and add a spoonful of le-
mon pickle, two of ketchup, and a quarter of a pint of ravigot
sauce (see Sauces) : give the sauce a boil, and serve, pouring
the sauce round the meat.
Bouillie Beef.
PUT the thick end of a brisket of beef into a kettle, and
cover it over with water. Let it boil fast for two hours, then
stew it close by the fireside for six hours more : put in with
the beef some turnips cut in slices, some carrots, and some
celery cut in pieces. About an hour before it is done, take as
much stock as will fill your tureen, and boil in it, for an hour,
turnips and carrots cut out in little round or square pieces,
with some celery, and season it to your taste with salt and
pepper. Serve in the tureen.
Bouillie Beef au Choux.
TAKE six pounds of brisket of beef which has been salted
two days : stew in weak stock till tender : whilst stewing, cut
a large cabbage in slices, wash clean, then blanch and squeeze
it : put into a stewpan with half a pound of fresh butter, an
92 MADE DISHES.
onion stuck with four cloves, half a gill of vinegar, a tea-
spoonful of coriander seeds pounded and sifted, a clove of
garlic, white pepper and salt: set the whole over a slow fire
till the cabbage is nearly done ; then add a pint of veal stock
(see Sauces), and a little flour; stew the cabbage till tender,
without burning it: wipe the beef dry, glaze it ; and serve,
with the cabbage round it.
Sirloin of Beef en Epigram.
HAVING roasted a sirloin of beef, take it off the spit, and
raise the skin carefully off. Then cut out the lean part of the
beef, but observe not to cut near the ends or sides. Hash the
meat in the following manner : cut it into pieces about the
size of a crown-piece, put half a pint of stock into a tossing
pan, an onion chopped fine, two spoonsful of ketchup, some
pepper and salt, six small pickled cucumbers cut in thin slices,
and the gravy that comes from the beef, with a little butter
rolled in flour. Put in the meat, and toss it up for five mi-
nutes ; put it on the sirloin, and then put the skin over, and
send it to table.
The Inside of a Sirloin of Beef forced.
LIFT up the fat of the inside, and with a sharp knife cut
off all the meat close to the bone. Chop it small : take a
pound of suet, and chop that small ; as much grated bread,
a little lemon peel, thyme, pepper and salt, half a nutmeg
grated, and two eschalots chopped fine. Mix all together with
a glass of red wine, and then put the meat into the place you
took it from ; cover it with the skin and fat, skewer it down
with fine skewers, and cover with paper. The paper must
not be taken off till the meat is put on the dish, and your
meat must be spitted before you take out the inside. Take a
quarter of a pint of red wine, two eschalots shred small, and a
spoonful of garlic vinegar ; boil them, and pour into the dish
with the gravy that comes out of the meat.
The Inside of a Rump of Beef forced.
THIS must be done nearly in the same manner as the above ;
only lift up the outside skin, take the middle of the meat, and
proceed as before directed. Put it into the same place, and
with fine skewers put it down close.
A Round of Beef forced.
FIRST rub it with some common salt, a little bay-salt, some
saltpetre, and coarse sugar ; then let it stand a full week or
MADE DISHES. 95
more, according to the size, turning it every day. Wash and
dry it, lard it a little, and make holes, which fill with grated
bread, marrow, or suet, parsley, grated lemon-peel, sweet
herbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, yolk of an egg, made into stuf-
fing. Bake it with a little water, and some small beer, some
whole pepper, and an onion. It may be boiled, and is a hand-
some sideboard dish for a large company.
Baked Beef.
TAKE either the sticking, clod, leg, or tops of the ribs
boned : wash clean, chop together parsley, thyme, eschalots,
marjoram, savory, and basil, of each a moderate quantity, and
season with kitchen pepper (see Sauces) : with these ingre-
dients rub the beef well, lay it in an earthen pan, adding half
a pint of port wine (or stale strong beer) a gill of vinegar,
ten whole onions peeled, two bay leaves, and a few fresh
mushrooms, or mushroom powder, let it remain twenty-four
hours ; then add water to cover it, and bake in a slow oven,
tying paper over the pan : when baked, take up the meat,
strain the gravy, skim off' the fat, and serve in a tureen with
the beef.
Beef steaks rolled.
TAKE what quantity you want of beef steaks, and beat them
with a cleaver to make them tender ; make some forcemeat
with a pound of veal beat fine in a mortar, the flesh of a fowl,
half a pound of cold ham or gammon of bacon, fat and lean ;
the kidney fat of a loin of veal, and a sweetbread, all cut
very fine : some truffles and morels stewed, and then cut
small, two eschalots, some parsley, a little thyme, some lemon-
peel, the yolks of four eggs, a little grated nutmeg, and half a
pint of cream . Mix all these together, and stir them over a slow
fire ten minutes. Put them upon the steaks, and roll them up;
then skewer them tight, put them into the frying-pan, and fry
them of a nice brown. Then take them from the fat, and put
them into a stewpan, with a pint of good stock, a spoonful of
red wine, two of ketchup, a few pickled mushrooms, and let
them stew for a quarter of an hour.
Bosuf a la Vinegrette.
FROM the round of beef cut a slice of three inches thick,
with very little fat. Stew it in water and a glass of white wine,
seasoned with salt, pepper, cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs,
and a bay leaf. Let it simmer till the liquor is almost con-
sumed ; and when cold, serve it up. What liquor remains,
strain off, and mix with a little vinegar.
MADK DISH I .
Ox Cheek.
BONE and clean wash the cheek ; tie it up like a rump of
beef, put it in a stewingpan with some stock (see. Sauces) ;
skim it when it boils, adding two bay leaves, a little garlic,
some onions, mushrooms or mushroom powder, celery, car-
rots, half a cabbage ; turnips, a bundle of sweet herbs, whole
pepper, mace, and allspice: in this let the cheek stew till
nearly done, and having cut the string, put the cheek in a
clean stevvpan; in the meantime strain the gravy, skim clean,
season with lemon juice, cayenne, and salt : add two spoons-
ful of browning, clear the whole with eggs, and when cleared,
strain through a tamis over the cheek in the clean stewpan,
and stew till tender.
Beef Tails.
HAVING cut them into joints, blanch and wash them : put
them in a stewpan with a sufficient quantity of stock, and
braise till tender: drain them, and serve with haricot sauce
over them. See Sauces.
Beef Escarlot.
TAKE a brisket of beef, half a pound of coarse sugar, tw
ounces of bay salt, and a pound of common salt. Mix all to-
gether, rub the beef with it, lay it in an earthen pan, and turn
it every day. It may lie a fortnight in this pickle : then serve
it up with savoys or pease pudding, but -it eats much better
when cold and cut into slices.
Beef Palates.
BLANCH, peel, and broil the palates; trim them into the
shape of cutlets ; braize with a pint of veal stock till nearly-
all is reduced : serve with allemand sauce. See Sauces,
Beef Palates baked (brown).
HAVING blanched, peeled, and boiled the palates, line a tin
mould with a veal caul ; lay a palate upon it, and over it some
light forcemeat containing green truffles pounded : fill the
mould with alternate layers of caul, palates, and forcemeat :
add a sufficient quantity of sto~k, and bake in a moderate
oven : take out the palates, &c. and put aside the cauls ; lay
the palates in the dish with the forcemeat over each : strain the
gravy, skim off the fat, add two spoonsful of port wine, one of
browning, and four pf Spanish sauce (see Sauces) boil all
together, and pour it over the palates.
MADE DISHES.
. Beef Palates baked (white) .
WHEN the palates come out of the oven, strain the gravy
and skim off the fat, adding a leasori (see Sauces) of two yolks
of eggs, and two spoonsful of benshamelle.
Tripe a la Kilkenny.
THIS dish is very much admired in Ireland, and is thus pre-
pared: take a piece of double tripe cut in square pieces, and
two cow-heels also cut in pieces. Peel and wash ten large
onions, cut them in two, and boil in water till tender. Then
put in your tripe and cow-heels, and boil it ten minutes. Pour
off almost all your liquor, shake a little flour into it, and put
in some butter, with a little salt and mustard. Shake all over
the tire till the butter is melted, then put it into your dish, and
send it to table as hot as possible.
Tongue roasted.
LET the tongue, if a dried one, be soaked in water for at
least four days, changing the water daily : if a green tongue
fresh out of pickle, twenty-four hours will be sufficient : in
either of these cases, the tongue must be simmered in water
till tender, and the skin can be easily taken off: if a fresh
tongue is used, blanch it till the skin can be easily taken off:
scrape, trim neatly, and wash clean : make several incisions
with a sharp knife, and fill with a savory forcemeat (see
Sauces) : cover with a veal caul, and tie on a spit: when do.ie,
take off the caul, wipe dry ; glaze, and serve with stewed
spinage under it. See Stewing.
Cold roasted Tongue and Barberries.
PUT into a stewpan half a pint of sauce tournay (see Sauces ),
and two spoonsful of preserved barberries : when these have
boiled up, add slices of cold roasted tongue, letting them re-
main in the sauce till thoroughly warm ; and serve with the
barberries in the middle of the dish.
Hodge Podge.
TAKE half a pound of pickled pork, half a pound of brisket
of beef, each cut into two pieces, and four beef tails cut into
joints* having put them into a pot and covered them with
water, boil : then skim clean, and add two ounces of dried
mushrooms, turnips, carrots, onions, Igeks, celery, all cut
small, and kitchen pepper (see Sauces) : when the liquor is
nearly consumed, add two quarts of veal stock, and stew the
96 MADE DISHES.
meat till tender, when it is to be taken up, and the gravy
strained from the vegetables and skimmed : add browning two
spoonsful, and cayenne, salt, and lemon-juice to the palate :
in the meantime, cut turnips and carrots into shapes, and
celery into lengths about two inches ; sweat them in a stew-
pan till quite tender, and strain their liquor to the gravy ob-
tained from the meat : now put in the meat, simmer till
thoroughly hot, add the vegetables which have been sweated,
and serve.
Porcupine of a Breast of Veal.
TAKE the finest and largest breast of veal you can procure,
bone, and rub it over with the yolks of two eggs. Spread on
a table, and lay over it a little bacon cutas thin as possible, a
handful of parsley shred fine, the yolks of five hard-boiled
eggs chopped small, a little lemon peel cut fine, grated bread
steeped in cream, and season to your taste with salt, pepper,
and nutmeg. Roll the breast close, and skewer it up. Then
cut fat bacon, and the lean of ham that has been a little
boiled (if you use the ham raw, it will turn the veal red), and
pickled cucumbers, about two inches long, to answer the
other lardings. Lard it in rows, first ham, then bacon, and
then cucumbers, till you have larded every part of the veal.
Put it in a deep earthen pot, with a pint of water, and cover
it, and set it in a slow oven for two hours. As soon as it
comes from the oven, skim off the fat, and strain the gravy
through a sieve into astewpan. Put in a glass of white wine,
a little lemon pickle and caper liquor, and a spoonful of
mushroom ketchup. Thicken it with a little butter rolled in
flour, lay your porcupine on the dish, and pour it hot upon
it ; and serve with forcemeat balls round it.
Shoulder of Veal a la Haut-gout.
CUT off the knuckle and flaps of a shoulder of veal ; raise
the skin, leaving it fast at the knuckle, and lard all over with
fat and lean bacon, seasoning with white pepper and salt:
rub the larding with the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle it wkh
grated bread, parsley, pickled mushrooms, a little lemon peel,
and green truffles, all shred very fine : skewer the skin over
these, and put the veal in a stewpan with fresh butter: stew till
of a light brown, frequently turning the meat ; then add a quart
of weak stock (see Sauces) , a spoonful of ketchup, the same of
garlic vinegar, and a glass of white wine : stew till sufficiently
tender; take up the veal, strain and skim the gravy, to which
add forcemeat balls, fresh mushrooms, truffles, and morels :
give these a boil, put in the veal for a few minutes, and
serve, having previously removed the skin.
MADE DISHES.
Veal a la Bourgeoise.
HAV ING cut veal into thick slices, lard them with bacon,
and season their, \\itb kitchen pepper (sec Sauces) and chop-
ped parsley. Cover the bottom of your stewpan with slices
of fat bacon, lay the veal upon them, cover the pan; and set it
over the tire for eight or ten minutes, just to be hot, and no
more. Then, with a brisk fire, brown your veal on both
sides, and shake some flour over it : add a quart of veal
stock, cover close, and stew gently till enough. Then take
out the slices of bacon, and skim ail the fat oft' clean, and
add a leason of eggs and a spoonful of benshamelle to the
gravy. Mix all together, and stir one way till it is smooth
and thick, and serve^with the sai'ice over the meat.
Roasted Loin of Veal a la Benshamelle.
TAKE a cold roasted loin of veal, or a part of one that has
been already served at table; and having poured a little
melted butter over it, paper, and put it into an oven till
warm through : take it out ; and having cut out the underside
or fillet, mince the same, adding Benshamelle (see SaucesJ,
a little garlic vinegar, white pepper, lemon, salt, and a smaJl
lump of sugar : simmer in a small stewpan ; take up the
mince, and put it into the place from whence you cut it;
sprinkle over it a little grated bread, and pour over it some
clarified butter: put the veal, with the mince upwards, into
an oven to brown ; and serve with benshamelle sauce under
it. A cold neck may be done in the same manner.
Neck of Veal larded.
TKIM the veal neatly, taking off the under part of the bone,
and leaving only a part of the long bones: lard with fat ba-
con, cover with a veal caul, and roast gently till nearly done :
take off the caul, roast till sufficiently done, wipe dry, glaize
the upper side, and serve with sorrel sauce under it.
Neck of Veal a VEspagnol.
HAVING trimmed the neck as for larding, set it on with
water to blanch : take it out of the water, and put it into a
stewpan with a white braise (see Sauces) ; let it simmer till
sufficiently done ; take it out of the braise, to which add a
quarter of a pint of Spanish sauce : let the braise with this
addition boil a few minutes ; and serve with the sauce over jt,
and Spanish onions boiled round the veal.
H
98 MADE DISHES.
Neck of Veal braised with Oyster Sauce.
PROCEED in the manner already directed for the same joint
a TEspagnol : but instead of serving it with the braise and
benshamelle, serve a part of the braise mixed with oyster
sauce (see Sauces) poured over the veal.
Breast of Veal a la Flammand.
HAVING covered the bottom of a stewpan with a sheet of
fat bacon, put in the veal, covering it with slips of bacon ;
add a pint of stock (see Sauces), half a pint of white wine,
white pepper and salt: stew till quite tender, take up the
meat, lay aside the bacon, strain and skim the gravy, and add
mushrooms, a spoonful of eschalot vinegar, a small lump of
sugar, and a little lemon-juice; give the same a boil, and
serve with the veal.
Breast of Veal a VEcossois.
HAVING boned the veal, lay over it a light forcemeat (see
Sauces), and over that layers of minced ham, pickled cucum-
bers, fat bacon, and an omlet of eggs : roll tight in a cloth,
tying the ends, and braise in a brown-braise till tender: take
up the meat, wipe dry, and glaize it ; serving with stewed
celery and benshamelle. See Sauces.
Breast of Veal a Vltalienne.
BRAISE in a brown-braise (see Sauces), into which cut a
pound of truffles : let the truffles stew with the veal for half
an hour; take them up and put into a separate stewpan, with
half a pint of good coulis, two spoonsful of garlic vinegar, a
glass of port wine, a little lemon-juice, ketchup, and brown-
ing, of each one spoonful ; season with pepper and salt :
when the meat is sufficiently braised, take it up and put it
into the stewpan with the truffles and sauce ; give the whole
a simmer, and serve with the truffles over, and the sauce
round.
Breast of Veal a TAnglois.
BONE the meat, and having nicely trimmed it, lard with fat
bacon : put into a stewpan with a quart of good veal stock
(see Sauces), a few fresh mushrooms, or mushroom powder,
an onion and carrot minced very small, a glass of white
wine, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, cayenne and
salt : let the meat stew till tender ; take it up, wipe dry, and
glaize : to the gravy in the stewpan add blanched morels,
truffles, slices of sweetbread, egg balls (see Sauces), arti-
. MADE DISHES. 99
choke bottoms, a spoonful of ketchup, the same of brown-
ing, season with cayenne and salt : let these boil for a few
minutes, and serve with the veal in the middle, and the sauce
poured over it.
Veal Olives.
TAKE a fillet of veal, and having cut off large collops, flat-
ten them well with a beater : spread very thinly forcemeat
over each of them, and roll them up, and roast them, or bake
them in an oven. Make a ragoo of oysters and sweetbreads,
cut in square bits a few mushrooms and morels, and lay them
in the dish with the veal. If you have oysters enough, chop
and mix some of them with the forcemeat, as it will add much
to its goodness. Put nice brown gravy into the dish, and
send them up hot, with forcemeat balls round them.
Fillet of Veal with Collops.
TAKE a small fillet of veal and cut what collops you want :
then take the udder, and fill it with forcemeat ; roll it round,
tie it with a packthread across, and roast it. Lay your col-
lops in the dish, and lay your udder in the middle. Garnish
with lemon.
Bombarded Veal.
HAVING nicely (aken out the bone from a fillet of veal,
make a forcemeat in the following manner: Take grated
bread, half a pound of fat bacon minced, an anchovy boned,
two or three sprigs of sweet marjoram, a little lemon-peel,
thyme, and parsley : chop these well together, and season to
your taste with salt, cayenne, and a little nutmeg grated : mix
all together with an egg and a little cream, and with this force-
meat fill up the place from whence the bone was taken. Then
make cuts all round the fillet, at about an inch distant from
each other : fill one with forcemeat ; a second with spinach
that has been well boiled and squeezed ; a third with crumbs
of bread, chopped oysters, and beef marrow ; a fourth with
the forcemeat, and thus fill up the holes round the fillet.
Wrap a caul close round it, and put it in a deep pot, with a
pint of water. Make a coarse paste to lay over it, in order
to prevent the oven giving it a disagreeable taste. As soon as
it is taken out of the oven, skim off' the fat, and put the gravy
into a stewpan, with a spoonful of mushroom ketchup, another
of lemon-pickle, five boiled artichoke bottoms cut in quar-
ters, two spoonfuls of browning, and half an ounce of mo-
rels and truffles -. thicken with butter and flour, give it a gentle
boil, and serve with your sauce over the veal.
H 2
100 MADE DISHES.
Shoulder of Veal a la Piedmontoue.
CUT the skin off a shoulder of veal so that it may hung at
one end, then lard the meat with bacon and ham, and season
with pepper, salt, mace, sweet herbs, parsley and lemon-
peel : cover 'it again with the skin, stew it with stock, and,
when tender enough, take it up. Then take sorrel, some let-
tuce capped small, and stew them in some butter with par-
sley, onions, and mushrooms. The herbs being tender, JMU
to them some of the liquor, some sweetbreads, and some bits
of ham. Let all stew together a little,while ; then lift up the
skin, lay the stewed herbs over and under, cover it again with
the skin, wet it with melted butter, strew it over with crumbs
of bread, and send it to the oven to brown. Serve it up hot,
with some good gravy in the dish. The French, before it
goes to the oven, strew it over with parmesan.
Sweetbreads of Veal a la Dauphine.
LARD the largest sweetbreads you can get, and open them
in such a manner that you can stuff in forcemeat (see
Sauces) : fill your sweetbreads, and fasten them with fine
wooden skewers. Take the stewpan, lay layers of bacon at
the bottom of the pan, and season with pepper, salt, mace,
cloves, sweet herbs, and a large onion sliced. Upon that lay
thin slices of veal, and then lay on your sweetbreads : cover
close, let it stand eight or ten minutes over a slow fire, and
then pour in a quart of boiling weak stock. Cover close, and
stew two hours very softly : take out the sweetbreads, Jay
aside the bacon and veal, keep them hot, strain the gravy,
skirn all the fat off, and boil till it is reduced to about half a
pint : put in the sweetbreads/and give them, two or three mi-
nutes stew in the gravy ; then lay them in the dish, and pour
the gravy over them.
Sweetbreads en Gordiniere.
PARBOIL three sweetbreads ; take a stewpan, and lay layers
of bacon, or ham and veal ; over that lay the sweetbreads, with
the upper side downwards. Put a layer of veal and bacon over
them, a pint of veal stock, and three or four blades of mace :
stew gently three quarters of an hour, then take out the
sweetbreads, strain the gravy through a tamis, and skina
off the fat : to this add a leason of eggs (see Sauces), and two
spoonfuls of sauce a la reine.
Sweetbreads larded.
LARD the sweetbreads with fat bacon : and, haying cover-
^d the bottom of a stewpan with bacon, lay them upon it,
MADE DISHES. 101
adding a sufficient quantity of veal stock (see Sauces) ; cover
with bacon, and paper over that : let them stew till tender;
take them up, laying aside the bacon ; glaize them, and hav-
ing strained the gravy in which the sweetbreads were stewed,
carefully skim olf the fat, and add a quarter of a pint of
benshamelle : put in the sweetbreads, and when hot, serve
with the sauce over them.
Sweetbreads boiled.
HAVING blanched two fine sweetbreads, wash and trim off
the pipe, and boil in milk and water for half an hour : take
them up, drain dry, and serve with a leason of eggs, adding
two spoonfuls of sauce a la reine. See Sauces.
Sweetbreads broiled.
PROCKED with the sweetbreads as above directed, but only
boil for a quarter of an hour: drain dry, cut into large slices,
seasoning with cayenne and salt : broil till of a nice brown,
and serve with haricot sauce. See Sauces.
Sweetbreads fried.
BLANCH three fine sweetbreads ; drain and cut them into
slices ; dip them into the following batter ; four ounces of
flour, three eggs, a gill of table beer, salt and white pepper,
well beaten with a wooden spoon for ten minutes: fry of a
nice brown, and serve with a good cullis under, and fried parsley
round them.
Sweetbreads en Erisori.
ON three sweetbreads lay a little light forcemeat, and hav-
ing brushed them pver with whites of eggs, work a sprig with
strips of pickled cucumber, ham, breast of fowl, omlets,
boiled carrot, and capers: put into a stewpan with a little
stock (see Sauces), and stew gently till sufficiently done, taking
care not to disturb the ornament: glaize the plain part; and
serve with a cullis under them.
A Caffs Appurtenances.
BOIL the lights and part of the liver; roast the heart stuffed
with suet, sweet herbs, and a little parsley, all chopped small,
a few crumbs of bread, some pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a
little lemon-peel ; mix up with the yolk of an egg. When the
lights and liver are boiled, chop them very small, and ^)ut
them into a saucepan with a piece of butter rolled in flour,
some pepper and salt, with a little lemon or vinegar if agree-
ible. Fry the other part of the liver as before mentioned,
102 MADE DISHES.
with some little slices of bacon. Lay the mince at the bot-
tom, the heart in the middle, and the fried liver and bacon
round, with some crisped parsley.
A Midcalf.
STUFF a calf's heart with forcemeat, and send it to the oven
in an earthen dish, with a little water under it. Lay butter
over it, and dredge it with flour. Boil half the liver, and all
the lights for half an hour; then chop them small, and put
, them in a stewpan with a pint of stock, a spoonful of ketchup,
and one of lemon-pickle. Squeeze in a half a lemon, season
with pepper and salt, and thicken with a good piece of butter
rolled in flour. When you serve up, place the mincemeat in
the bottom, and have the other half of the liver ready fried
of a fine brown, and cut in thin slices, and little pieces of
bacon. Set the heart in the middle, and lay the liver and
bacon over the minced meat.
Calf's Heart roasted.
HAVING made a forcemeat of grated bread, a quarter of a
pound of beef suet chopped small, a little parsley, sweet
marjoram and lemon peel, mixed up with a little white pep-
per, salt, nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg, fill the heart with
it, and lay a veal caul over the stuffing, or a sheet of writing
paper to keep it in its place. Lay it in a Dutch oven, and
keep it turning till it is thoroughly roasted. Serve with a good
cullis under it.
Calfs Liver roasted.
CUT a slit in the under part of the liver, and fill it with the
following stuffing: grated bread, marrow, nutmeg, parsley
and thyme shred fine, two mushrooms and one eschalot chop-
ped small, mix with one egg: sew it up, lard the top with
slips of fat bacon, cover with a veal caul, and roast gently :
when enough, lay aside the caul, glaize the top, and serve
with good cullis under it (see Sauces}, and fried parsley
round H.
alfs fflad surprised.
TAKE the hair off a large calf's head, then raise off the
skin with a sharp pointed knife, and as much of the meat from
the bone as you can possibly get, so that it may appear like
a whole head when stuffed; but be careful not to cut holes in
the skin. Then fill with forcemeat (see Sauces ), and put a
a little of it into the ears, then lay it in a deep pot, just wide
enough to take it in, and -put to it two quarts of water, half a
MADE DISHES, 103
pint of white wine, a blade or two of mace, a bundle of
sweet herbs, an anchovy, two spoonsful of walnut and mush-
room ketchup, the same quantity of lemon-pickle, and a
little salt and cayenne. Lay a coarse paste over it to keep in
the steam, and put it for two hours and a half in a very quick
oven. When you take it out ? lay the head in a soup-dish,
skirn off the fat from the gravy, and strain it through a tamis
into a stewpan : thicken with a lump of butter rolled -m^flour,
and when it has boiled a few minutes, put in the yolks of six
eggs well beaten, and mixed with half a pint of cream. Have
ready boiled a few forcemeat balls, half an ounce of truffles
and morels; but do not stew them in the gravy. Pour the
gravy over the head, and serve.
Breast of Veal in Hodge-Podge.
CUT the brisket of a breast of veal into little pieces, and
every bone asunder. Then flour it, and put half a pound of
good butter into a stewpan. When hot, throw in the veal, fry
it all over of a fine light brown, and having ready boiling wa-
ter, fill up the stewpan, and stir it round. Throw in a pint of
green peas, a fine whole lettuce clean washed, two or three
blades of mace, a little whole pepper tied in a muslin rag, a
small bundle of sweet herbs, a small onion-stuck with a few
cloves, and a little salt : cover close, and let it stew an hour,
or till boiled to your palate, if you would have soup made of
it; but if you would only have sauce to eat to the veal, you
must stew till there is just as much as you would have for
sauce, and season with salt to your palate. Take out the
onion, sweet herbs and spice, and pour it all together into
your dish. If you have no peas, pare three or four cucum-
bers, scoop out the pulp, and cut them into little pieces ;
and take four or five heads of celery clean washed, and cut
the white part small. When you have no lettuces, take the
little hearts of savoys, or the little young sprouts that grow
on the old cabbage stalks. If you would make a very fine
dish of it, fill the inside of your lettuce with forcemeat, and
tie the top close with a thread. Stew it till there is just
enough for sauce. Set the lettuce in the middle, and the
veal round, and pour the sauce all round it.
Disguised Leg of Veal and Bacon.
HAVING larded your veal all over with slips of bacon, and
a little lemon-peel, boil it Avith a piece of bacon. When
enough, take it up, cut the bacon into slices, and have ready
some dried sage and pepper rubbed .fine. Rub it over the
101 MADE D.1SHES.
bacon, lay the veal in the dish, and the bacon round it ; strew
it all over with fried parsley, and serve with sorrel sauce.
Loin of Veal en Epigram.
HAVING roasted a fine loin of veal, take it up, and care-
fully take the skin off the back part without breaking it. Cut
out all the lean meat; but leave the ends whole, to hold the
following mincemeat: mince all the meat very fine with the
kidney part, put it into a little veal stock, enough to moisten
it with the gravy that comes from the loin. Put in a little
white pepper and salt, some lemon-peel shred fine, the yolks
of three eggs, and a spoonful of benshamelle (see Sauces).
Thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour. Give it a shake
or two over the fire, and put it into the loin, and then pull the
skin over: brown it with a salamander, and serve.
Pillow of Veal.
HAVING half roasted a neck or breast of veal, cut it into
six pieces, and season it with white pepper, salt, and nutmeg.
Take a pound of rice, put to it a quart of stock, some mace,
and a little salt. Do it over a stove,' or very slow fire, till it
is thick ; but butter the bottom of the pan or dish you do it
in. Beat up the yolks of six eggs, and stir them into it.
Then take a little round deep dish, butter it, and lay some
of the rice at the bottom. Then lay the veal on a round
heap, and cover it all over with" rice. Wash it over with the
yolks of eggs, and bake it an hour and #. half. Then open
the top, and pour in a pint of rich good gravy.
Savoury Dish of- Veal.
HAVING cut large collops out of a leg of veal, spread them
abroad on a dresser, hack them with the back of a knife, and
dip them into the yolks of eggs. Season with salt, mace,
nutmeg, and pepper, beaten fine. Make forcemeat with
some of your veal, beef suet, oysters chopped, sweet herbs
shred fine, and kitchen pepper : strew all these over your
collops, roll and tie them up, put them on skewers, tie them
to a spit, and roast them. To the rest of your forcemeat add
a raw egg or two, and roll them in balls and fry them. Put
them into your dish, with your meat when roasted, and make
the sauce with strong stock, an anchovy, an eschalot, a little
white wine, and some spice. Let it stew, and thicken it with
a piece of butter rolled in flour. Pour the sauce into the
dish, lay the meat in, and serve.
MADE D-ISHE.&. 1O3
70 make Slove Veal.
CUT out the middle bone from a fillet of veal of a cow.
calf, so that the meat may lie flat in the stewpan. Cut off the
udder, ami slice it in long pieces, and roll it in seasoning of
pepper, salt, nutmeg, and sweet herbs, finely shred. Make
holes in the fillet, and stick in these seasoned pieces as thick
as you can, until the whole-is stuffed in. Then lay butter in
the pan, and put in the meat, set it on a gentle fire, turning
and shaking it : skim the fat off, and put in an onion stuck
with cloves, a lemon pared and cut in half, and squeeze in
the juice. Continue to shake it, and let it simmer five hours.
One hour before it is done, put in a pint of strong stock.
When the meat is just done enough, set on a pint of mush-,,
rooins, with a little of the gravy, and let the meat be again
skimmed clean from the fat, and thicken it with flour and
butter, and serve in the dish with the meat.
To dress the Umbles of Deer.
TAKE the kidney of a deer, with the fat of the heart ; sea-
son them with a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg. First fry them,
and then stew them in some good stock till they are tender.
Squeeze in a little lemon ; take the skirts, and stuff them with
a forced meat made with the fat of the venison, some fat of
bacon, grated bread, pepper, mace, sage, and onion chop-
ped very small : mix with the yolk of an egg. When the
skirts are stuffed with this forced meat, tie them to the spit to
roast ; but first lard them with thyme and lemon-peel. When
they are done, lay the skirts in the middle of the dish, and
the fricasee round it.
Haricot of a Neck of Mutton, or Mutton Cutlets.
HAVING cut the best end of a neck of mutton into chops, or
a loin with the fat cut off, flatten and fry them of a light
brown. Put them into a stewpan, with a little weak stock, to
prevent their burning, and simmer till tender: serve with
haricot sauce over them. See Sauces.
Shoulder of Mutton surprised.
PUT a shoulder of mutton, having first half boiled it, into a
stewpan, with two quarts of veal stock, four ounces of rice,
a little beaten mace, and a tea-spoonful of mushroom powder:
stew it an hour, or till the rice is enough, and then take up
your mutton, and keep it hot. Put to the rice half a pint of
106 MADE DISHES,
cream, and a piece of butter rolled in flour, shake it well,
and boil it a lew minutes. Lay your mutton on the dish, and
pour your gravy over it.
A Basque of Mutton.
LAV the caul of a leg of veal in an earthen pan, of the
size of a. small punch-bowl, and take the lean of a leg of
mutton that has been kept a week. Having chopped it ex-
ceedingly small, take half of its weight in beef marrow, half
a pound of grated bread, the rind of half a lemon grated,
half a pint of red wine, two anchovies, and the yolks of four
eggs. Mix it as you \vonld sausage iineat, lay it in the caul
in the inside of the pan, fasten the caul, bake it in a quick
oven, and having taken off the caul, serve with a coulis under
it, and venison sauce in a tureen.
Mutton Rumps and Kidnies.
BOIL six rumps in veal stock ; then lard your kidnies with
bacon, and set them before the fire in a tin oven. As soon
as they are tender, rub them over with the yolk of an egg,
a little grated nutmeg, and some caj'enne : fry till of a light
brown ; glaize the kidnies, and serve with slewed sorrel under
them.
Mutton Rumps a la Braise.
BOIL six mutton rumps for fifteen minutes in water; then
take them out, and cut them into two, and put them into a
stewpan, with half a pint of good stock, a gill of port wine, an
onion stuck with cloves, and a little salt and cayenne. Cover
close, and stew them till they are tender. Take them and
the onion out, and thicken the gravy with a little butter rolled
in flour, a spoonful of browning, and the juice of half a
lemon : boil till it is smooth, but not too thick ; put in your
rumps, give them a toss or two, and serve them up hot.
Mutton Rumps marinated.
CLEAN, trim, and cut the rumps of an equal size, laying
them in a pan, covered with marinate (see Sauces}, for a
night: put the whole into a stewpan, and simmer till nearly
done : take them out of the marinate, let them cool, and
brush them over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkling grated
bread over them: fry gently in boiling lard till of a nice
brown, and sufficiently done ; drain dry, and serve with a
good coulis and two spoonsful of ketchup under them.
MADE DISHES. 107
Betf and Mutton Steaks marinated
IN the same manner as mutton rumps ; except that for
beef an eschalot may be chopped very fine, and mixed with
the grated bread : serve with puree of potatoes. See Sauces.
Pork Steaks marinated
-
IN the same manner as mutton rumps; except that an
onion and a few leaves of sage may be finely shred and mixed
with the grated bread: -serve with sauce piquant under them.
Mutton kebobbed.
HAVING cut a loin of mutton into four pieces, take off the
skin, rub them with the yolk of an egg, and strew over them
a little grated bread, and parsley shred fine. Spit and roast
them, basting them all the time with fresh butter, in order to
make the froth rise : when properly done, serve with sauce
ravigot. See Sauces.
Mutton the Turkish Way.
HAVING cut your meat into thin slices, wash it in vinegar,
and put it into a pot or saucepan that has a close cover to it.
Put in some rice, whole pepper, and three or four whole
onions. Let all these stew together, skimming it frequently.
When enough, take out the onions, and season with salt to
your palate. Lay the mutton in the dish, and pour the rice
and liquor over it.
Leg of Mutton a la Haut-gout.
TAKE a leg of mutton that has hung a fortnight ; stuff every
part of it with cloves of garlic, rub it with pepper and salt,
and then roast it. When properly roasted, send it up, with
some good gravy and sweet sauce in a tureen.
Leg of Mutton roasted with Cockles.
HAVING boned it, fill the cavity with a forcemeat contain-
ing minced cockles : sew it up, roast of a nice brown, and
serve with a quarter of a pint of coulis, two spoonsful of the
cockle liquor, a few stewed mushrooms, and blanched cockles,
all simmered together.
Leg of Mutton roasted with Oysters.
BONE the leg, fill the cavity with a forcemeat, containing
bearded oysters pounded, and two eschalots shred very fine:
108 MADE DISHES
sew it up, roast, and serve with sauce poivrade (see Sauces},
containing a little of 'the oyster liquor, and a few blanched
and bearded oysters.
Leg of Mutton roasted with Lobster or Crab.
BONK the leg, fill the cavity with a forcemeat, containing
the meat of a crab or lobster shred and pounded, a little
grated lemon-peel, and nutmeg: sew it up; roast, and serve,
with lobster or crab sauce under it.
Mutton Chops in Disguise.
RUB them with the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle with pep-
per, salt, nutmeg, and a little parsley. Roll each chop in
half a sheet of white paper, well buttered in the inside, and
rolled close at each end. Boil some hog's-lard or beef drip-
ping in a stewpan, and put the steaks into it. Fry them of a
fine brown, drain them dry, and serve with sauce royal in a
tureen.
Shoulder of Mutton en Epigramme.
TAKE a shoulder of mutton, and when roasted almost
enough, carefully take off the skin about the thickness of a
crown piece, and also the shank bone at the end. Then sea-
son both the skin, blade and shank bone, with pepper and
salt, a little lemon-peel cut small, and a few sweet herbs and
crumbs of bread. Lay this on the gridiron, till of a fine
brown ; and in the meantime, take the rest of the meat, and
cut it like a hash, about the bigness of a shilling. Save the
gravy, and put it to it, with a few spoonsful of strong
i- ! i i \r i-
couhs, a little grated nutmeg, hair an onion cut hne, a small
bundle of herbs, a little pepper and salt, some gerkins cut
very small, a few mushrooms, two or three truffles cut small,
two spoonsful of port wine, and a little flour dredged into it.
Let all these stew together very slowly for five or six minutes,
taking care that it do not boil. Take out the sweet herbs,
Jay the hash in the place from whence it was taken, and the
broiled upon it, so as to make it appear like a whole shoul-
der ; and serve with a good coulis under it.
Leg of Lamb braised.
HAVING boned a leg of lamb, fill it with forcemeat, cover
it with slices of lemon and sheets of fat bacon, and braise in a
white braise over a stove or gentle fire for two hours : take it
up, drain it, pouring benshamelle over it.
MADE DISHES. 109
Leg of Lamb braised, and savoury Jelly.
FORCE and bruise the lamb as in the preceding directions :
take it up, put it in an earthen pan, pouring the braise over
it : let it lie all night in the braise, and when wanted, take it
up, and serve with savoury jelly over it. See Sauces.
Shoulder of Lamb braised, and Sorrel Sauce,
MAY he prepared as directed for leg of lamb, only serving
jt on sorrel sauce.
Shoulder of Lamb glaized,
MAY be prepared also as directed for leg, &c. When taken
out of the braise, it must be drained dry, wiped, glaized,
and served with a good coulis under it.
Shoulder of Lamb en Epigramme,
MAY be prepared in the same manner as already directed
for mutton.
Shoulder of Lamb grilled.
HAVING roasted the shoulder till three parts done, take it up,
and with a sharp knife score it in small diamonds, seasoning
with pepper and salt, or if intended to be highly seasoned,
with cayenne ; broil of a nice brown, and serve with a good
coulis under it, to which add two spoonsful of ketchup, a
little lemon juice and butter, and place over thin slices of
lemon.
Hind Quarter of Lamb marinated.
BONE the leg, and fill with forcemeat, as directed for leg
of lamb braised : sew it up, and lard the loin part : lay it in
the marinate (see Sauces) for six hours, turning it frequently :
take it up, cover with a veal caul, and roast it : glaize the
larding, and serve with the marinate boiled down till nearly
consumed, adding a good coulis.
Neck of Lamb glaized.
HAVING cut off the scrag, and sawed off the chine, care-
fully take away the skin and part of the fat : lard with fat
bacon, cover with a veal caul, and roast gently : take it up,
glaize it, and serve with white onion sauce. See Sauces.
' Lamb Cutlets, with Cucumber Sauce.
Cut the chine off a neck of lamb, cut it into cutlets, and
trim them neatly : into a stewpan put three ounce* of butter,
1 10 MADE DISHES.
pepper, salt, chopped eschalots, thyme, parsley, and lemon
juice : melt the butter, and put in the cutlets till three parts
done : take them up, and when nearly cool, brush them over
with yolk of egg, sprinkle with grated bread, and fry in
boiling lard : drain off the fat, and serve with cucumber sauce
in the middle of the dish. See Sauces.
N. B. Veal -and mutton cutlets may be dressed in the same
manner.
Lamb Cutlets, with Ttndrons.
PROCEED as above with the cutlets ; and serve with ten-
drons braised in the centre, and turnip sauce poured over the
tendrons. See Sauces.
Tendrons are the gristle bones of the breast, cut into slices :
braise these in a brown braise. See Sauces.
Lamb Cutlets, with mashed Potatoes.
PROCEED exactly as already directed for cucumbers, in-
stead of which place mashed potatoes in the middle of the
dish. Sec Potatoes mashed , Chap^ Vegetables.
Lamb Cutlets, with Sauce Robert.
PROCEED as above, and serve with sauce Robert under them.
See Sauces.
Lamb's Head and Appurtenances.
Having sawed the head in halves, take out the brains, wash
them in warm water, wipe them dry, and having dipped them
in yolk of egg, sprinkle them over with grated bread, when
they will be ready for frying : blanch the head, liver, heart,
and lights, and having chopped the three latter small, add a
little parsley and lemon-peel shred very fine, and a pint of
seasoned coulis; in which gently stew them till tender : brush
the head over with yolk of egg, strewing grated bread over
it, and bake in a moderate oven till tender ; and when done,
brown it with a salamander : fry the brains in boiling lard,
drain dry ; fry also thin rashers of bacon ; and serve with the
mince in the middle of the dish, the head over it, and the
brains and rashers of bacon placed alternately round it.
Lamtfs Head and Appurtenances, with Powrade.
SAW the head in two, take out the tongue whole, and clean
and prepare the brains as above directed : boil the head and
tongue till quite tender ; pull out all the bones, and with a
light forcemeat stuff the meat, and mould it into the shape of
a lamb's head : brush this and the tongue with yolk of egg,
MADE DISUSE. 1 1 1
strewing over them grated bread ; put them into an oven, and
when become firm, brush them over again with egg, and
strew grated bread over them : repeat this three -times, still
preserving the head of a proper shape, and make the tongue
look large : cut the liver and heart in slices, and fry them
and the brains : serve with poivrade sauce (see Sauces) in the
dish, the tongue in the middle, the head on each side, and
the fry round it.
Lamb's Rumps and Ears (brown)..
SCALD an equal number of each very clean ; take a pint of
veal stock, in which braise them till half done : take up the
rumps, and having brushed them over with yolk of egg, strew
with grated bread, and broil gently : stew the ears till the li-
quor is nearly reduced, and having now added coulis, stew
till tender, and serve with the rumps round the ears and
sauce.
Lamb's Ramps and Ears (white).
PROCEED as above directed ; and when they are tender, and
the liquor is nearly reduced, add a leason of eggs, and
serve.
Lamb Cutlets a la Maintenon.
HAVING sawed off the chine bone of a. loin of lamb, cut it
into chops, trim off the fat, shape them nicely, and put them
into a stew pan, with a little fresh butter, eschalots, thyme,
and parsley, all shred fine ; pepper, salt, pounded mace, and
a little lemon juice: keep moving in the stewpan till nearly
done; take them up, strain the gravy over them, and when
nearly cold, strew grated bread over them : fold them up se-
parately in white paper oiled ; broil over a slow fire, and
serve with poivrade in a tureen. See Sauces.
Mutton chops may be done in the same manner.
Scotch Collops.
CUT your collops off the thick part of a leg of veal, the
size and thickness of a crown piece, and put a piece of butter
browned in your stewpan : lay in the collops, arid fry them
over a quick fire : shake and turn them, and keep them on
a fine froth. When fried of a light brown, put them into a
stewpan, with half a pint of coulis, to which add half a
lemon, a little essence of anchovy, half an ounce of morels,
a large spoonful of browning, the same of ketchup, two tea-
spoonsful of lemon pickle, and season to your taste with salt
and cayenne: thicken with butter and flour, let it simmer
five or six minutes, and serve with forcemeat balls, and little
112 MADE DISHES.
slices of fried bacon round them, and a few mushrooms over
them.
Oxfwd John.
CUT a stale leg of mutton into as thin collops as you can,
and take out all the sinews. Season with salt, pepper, and
mace, and strew among them a little shred parsley, thyme,
and^two or three eschalots. Put a good lump of butter into a
stewpan, and as soon as it is hot, put in the collops, stirring
them with a wooden spoon till they are three parts done ; then
add half a pint of coulis, a little juice of lemon, and thicken
it with flour and butter. Let them simmer four or five mi-
nutes, and serve tfith the sauce strained over them.
A Pig au Pere. Duillet.
HAVING cut off the head, and divided the pig into quar-
ters, lard them with bacon, and season them well with salt,
pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and mace. Place a layer of fat ba-
con at the bottom of a stewpan, Jay the head in the middle,
and the quarters round it. Then put in a bay leaf, an onion
shred, a lemon, some carrots, parsley, and liver, and cover
again with bacon. Put in a quart of second stock, stew it
for an hour, and then take it up : put the pig into a stewpan,
pour in a pint of white wine, cover close, and let it stew for
an hour very slowly. While the pig is stewing in the wine,
take the first gravy it was stewed in, skim oft the fat, and
strain it : then take a sweetbread cut into five or six slices,
some truffles, morels, and mushrooms, and stew all together
till enough : thicken with the yolks of two eggs, or a piece of
butter rolled in flour ; and when the pig is enough, take it
out, and lay it in your dish. Add the wine it was stewed in to
the ragoo, and pour all over the pig, and serve.
Fillet of Pork with Sauce Robert.
HAVING boned a loin or neck of pork, cut off the rind:
put some second stock into a stewpan, and lay in the pork,
covering it with shred onions and sage, seasoned with white
pepper and salt: over these place the rind, and stew gently
for three hours : take it up, and having dried it, glaize, and
serve on sauce Robert. See Sauces.
Leg of Pork a la Boisseau.
TAKE a leg of pork that has been in salt for four days, put
into boiling water, and boil for ten minutes : take it up, skin,
spit, and roast it : when done, brush it over with yolk of egg,
MADE DISHES. US
strew grated bread all over it, and brown with a salamander,
serving it with sauce poivrade under it. See Sauces.
Ham brained.
HAVING soaked the ham for twenty four hours in warm wa-
ter, set to boil in cold water for twenty minutes : take it up,
and having taken off" the rind and trimmed it, lay it in a stew-
pan with a pint of white wine and a brown braise (see Sauces) ;
cover very closely, and stew very gently till sufficiently done :
take it up, wipe dry, and glaze, serving it on stewed
spinach.
Loin of Pork a la Sicilienne.
CUT the loin of pork as for chops, but do riot entirely divide
them : shred small a sufficient quantity of sage, and with it
stuff all the cuts between the chops : tie it together with a
tape, and having put it into an earthen pan, cover it with
equal parts of vinegar and water, and let it lie covered for
ten days: cover the pan with a strong sheet of white paper,
and bake it : take the pork out of the liquor, and serve with
currant jelly ; or a little of the liquor skimmed, a lump of
sugar, and a glass of port wine.
Petit-toes, or young Pigs' Feet.
. HAVING scalded two or three sets of feet, and the plucks,
take them up, and put them into a stewpan, with half a pint
of water, two eschalots, a little parsley and sage, all shred
fine; season with a blade of mace, a little grated nutmeg,
white pepper, and salt : when they are nearly done, and the
liquor consumed, mince the pluck, and add it to the feet with
a white coulis, two tea-spoonsful of lemon pickle, a table-
spoonful of white wine, and season with cayenne and salt :
stew the whole till tender, and serve with sippets round
them.
Large Pigs' 1 Feet and Ears.
SCALD and clean them ; split the feet, and tie them toge-
ther with string : having put them into a pot covered with
water, let them boil ; skim clean, and add a little thyme,
onions, eschalots, two cloves of garlic, two bay leaves, whole
pepper, two blades of mace, allspice, and salt : stew till ten-
der ; take them up, and put them in an earthen pan for use :
when wanted, take any number, put them into a stewpan
with a bit of fresh butter, a little chopped parsley, thyme,
eschalots, pepper, salt, and lemon juice : shake them about
in the stewpan till they have imbibed all the flavour of the
MADE DISHES.
herbs, and are sufficiently done ; take them up, brush them
with yolk of egg, strew grated bread over them, and broil
over a o-eutle fire : cut the ears in slices, put them into a
stewpaiffor ten minutes with a good seasoned coulis (see
Sauces), and serve with the feet over them.
Goose a la Royale.
HAVING boned the goose, stuff it with the following force-
meat : twelve sage leaves, two onions, two apples, shred all
very fine ; mix with grated bread, four ounces of beef mar-
row, two glasses of port wine, grated nutmeg, pepper, salt,
shred lemon peel, and four yolks of eggs : sew up the goose ;
try in butter of a light brown ; and put it into a stewpan
with two quarts of good stock, letting it stew two hours, and
till the liquor is nearly consumed t take up the goose ; strain
the liquor, and skim off the fat, adding a spoonful of lemon
pickle, the same quantity of browning and port wine, a tea-
spoonful of essence of anchovy, beaten mace, cayenne, and
salt : give it a boil, and serve over the goose.
Ducks a la Mode.
CUT a couple of fine ducks into quarters, and fry them in
butter till they are a little brown : pour out all the fat, dust a
.little flour over them, and put in half a pint of good stock,
a quarter of a pint of red wine, an anchovy, two eschalots, and
a bundle of sweet herbs. Cover close, and let them stew a
quarter of an hour. Take out the herbs, skim off the fat,
and let your sauce be as thick as cream.
Ducks a la Braise.
HAVING singed and dressed your ducks, lard them quite
through with bacon rolled in shred parsley, onions, thyme,
pepper, salt, and beaten mace. Put a few slices of fat bacon
in the bottom of a stewpan, the same of gammon of bacon or
ham, two or three slices of beef or veal, and lay your ducks
in with their breasts downwards. Cover the ducks with slices
the same as you put under them, and cut in a carrot or two,
a turnip, a head of celery, an onion, four or five cloves, a
blade of mace, and a little whole pepper. Cover them close
down, and let them simmer a little over a gentle fire till the
breast is of a light brown : add some good stock, cover them
down again closely, and stew them gently till enough, and
the liquor is nearly consumed, which will require two or
three hours : take some parsley, an onion or eschalot, a few
gerkins or capers, and two anchovies ; chop all very fine, and
MADE DISHES. 1 1 5
put them in a stewpan, with the liquor from the ducks, a little
browning, and the juice of a lemon. Boil it up, and cut the
ends of the bacon even with the breasts of your ducks. Lay
them on your dish, pour the sauce hot upon them, and serve
them up.
Ducks a la Daube.
HAVING larded two ducks, fill them with a good forcemeat,
containing two eschalots minced very fine, and put them into
a stove with a little second stock for ten minutes : add a pint
of good stock, the bones, giblets, six onions, two cloves, a
faggot of herbs, cayenne, salt, lemon juice, two blades of
mace, and half a pint of claret : cover with sheets of bacon,
and 'stew slowly for two hours : take them up, and having
strained and skimmed the liquor, pour it over them.
Ducks larded.
PROCEED as above directed, except that the breasts of the
ducks must be larded : having stewed for two hours, take
them up, wipe dry ; glaze them, and strain the gravy,
pouring it into the dish, and serving the ducks upon it.
Ducks aux Naves.
PROCEED as above directed a la daube, omitting the escha-
lots; and when sufficiently stewed, serve on turnip sauce,
with the gravy in a tureen.
Ducks aux Concombres.
PROCEED as for ducks larded, omitting the eschalots, and
substituting white wine for claret : take them up, wipe dry,
glaze, and serve on cucumber sauce, with the gravy in a
tureen.
Ducks a la Benshamelle.
PROCEED as directed aux concombres, substituting bensha-
nielle for cucumber sauce.
Turkey a la Daube.
PROCEED as for the ducks a la daube, adding some chopped
oysters to the forcemeat, and larding the breast: take up the
turkey, wipe dry, and glaze : strain and skim the gravy, add
a little oyster liquor, and some bearded oysters: let these
simmer, and serve with the turkey over the sauce.
13
116 MADE DISHES.
Fowl a la Daube.
HAVING boned a large fowl, fill it with a good forcemeat
(see Sauces), and braise in a white braise: when tlone, take
it up, wipe dry, and glaze it : strain the braise into a small
stewpan, adding a spoonful of essence of ham, and some
pickled mushrooms; let this sauce simmer, and serve with the
fowl over it.
Fowl a la Menehout.
HAVING taken the bones out of the legs and wings, draw
them in, and split the fowl down the back : skewer it flat, and
put it into a stewpan, with a little butter, eschalots, thyme,
parsley, lemon juice, salt, and pepper : shake it about (or
pass it) till nearly done: take it up, and when cold, brush it
over with yolk of egg, strewing over it grated bread : broil
gently till enough ; and having strained the liquor in which it
was passed, adding a good coulis, two spoonsful of ketchup,
a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle, and a few pickled mushrooms:
let these simmer, and serve with the fowl over it.
Chickens in savoury Jelly.
TAKE two chickens, and roast them. Boil some calf's feet
to a strong jelly ; take out the feet, and skim oft' the fat; beat up
the whites of three eggs, and mix them with half a pint of while
wine vinegar, thejuice of three lemons, a blade or two of mace,
a few pepper-corns, and a little salt. Put them to the jelly ;
and when it has boiled five or six minutes, strain it several
times through a jelly bag till very clear. Then put a little in the
bottom of a mould large enough to hold the chickens, and when
they are cold, and the jelly set, lay them in with their breasts
down : then fill the mould quite full with the rest of the jelly,
which you must take care to keep from setting, so that when
you pour it into the bowl it will not break. Let it stand all night ;
and the next day put the mould into warm water, pretty near
the top. As soon as you find it loose, lay your dish over it,
and turn it out whole.
Chicken Surprise.
ONE large fowl will do for a small dish. Roast it, and
take the lean from the bones ; cut it into thin slices, about an
inch long, and toss it up with six or seven spoonsful of cream,
and a piece of butter, as big as a walnut, rolled in flour.
Boil it up, and set it to cool. Then put six or seven thin
MADE DISHES. 1 17
slices of bacon round it, place them in a pattypan, and put
some forcemeat on each side. Work them up into the form
of a French roll, with a raw egg, leaving a hollow place in
the middle. Put in your fowl, and cover them with some of
the same forcemeat, rubbing them smooth with a raw egg.
Make them of the height and bigness of a French roll, and
throw a little fine grated bread over them. Bake them three
quarters, or an hour, in a gentle oven, or under a baking
cover, till they come to a fine brown, and place them on
your mazarine, that they may not touch one another; but
place them so that they may not fall flat in the baking ; or you
may form them on your table with a broad kitchen knife, and
place them on the thing you intend to bake them on. You
may put the leg of a chicken into one of the loaves you in-
tend for the middle. Let your sauce be gravy, thickened with
butter, and a little jaice of lemon.
Chickens Chiringrate.
HAVING cut off the feet of the chickens, break the breast-
bone flat with a rolling pin; but take care you do not break
the skin. Flour them, fry them of a fine brown in butter;
drain all the fat out of the pan, but leave the chickens in.
Lay a pound of gravy-beef cut very thin over your chickens,
and a piece of veal cut very thin, a little mace, two or three
cloves, some whole pepper, an onion, a little bunch of sweet
herbs, and a piece of carrot. Then pour in a quart of se-
cond stock, cover close, artd let it stew for a quarter of an
hour: take out the chickens, and keep them hot; let the
gravy boil till rich and good ; strain it off, and put it into
your pan again, with two spoonsful of red wine', and a feu-
mushrooms. Put in the chickens to heat; and serve with the
sauce over them.
Large Fowls forced.
HAVING cut the skin of a large fowl down the breast, care-
fully slip it down so as to take out all the meat, and mix .it
with a pound of beef suet, cut small. Then beat them toge-
ther in a marble mortar, and take a pint of large oysters cut
small, two anchovies, an eschalot, a few sweet herbs, a little
pepper, some nutmeg grated, and the yolks of four eggs.
Mix all these together, and lay it on the bones, then draw the
skin over it, and sew it up. Put the fowl into a bladder, and
boil it an hour and a quarter. Stew some oysters in good
gravy, thickened with a piece of butter rolled in flour, take
the fowl out of the bladder, lay it in your dish, and pour the
sauce over it.
118 MADE DISHES.
Fowls marinated.
WITH your finger raise the skin from the breast-bone of a
large fowl or turkey; cut a veal sweetbread small, a few
oysters and mushrooms, an anchovy, a little thyme, some
lemon peel, and season with pepper and nutmeg. Chop
them small, and mix them with the yolk of an egg. Stuff it
in between the skin and the flesh, but be careful not to break
the skin, and then stuff what quantity of oysters you please
into the fowl : or you may lard the breasts of the fowls with
bacon ; roast with a paper over the breasts, and serve with a
good coulis under them.
Pigeons compote.
SKEWER six young pigeons in the same manner as for
boiling, put forcemeat (see Sauces) into the craws, lard them
down the breast, and fry them brown. Put them into
strong stock, and when they have stewed three quarters of an
hour, thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour. When
you serve them up, strain your gravy over them, and lay
forcemeat balls round them.
Pigeons in savoury Jelly.
AFTER having roasted the pigeons with the head and feet
on, put a sprig of myrtle in their bills, and make a jelly for
them in the same manner as before directed for chickens, and
treat them the same in every other respect.
Pigeons a la Daube
MAY be prepared in either of the modes already described
for ducks, &c.
Pigeons au Poire.
HAVING made a forcemeat like the above, and cut off the
feet, stuff them in the shape of a pear; roll them in the yolk
of an egg, and then in crumbs of bread ; stick the leg at top,
and butter a dish to lay them in ; then send them to an oven
to bake, but do not let them touch each other. When enough,
lay them in a dish, and serve with a good coulis under them.
Pigeons Surtout.
HAVING forced your pigeons, lay a slice of bacon on the
breast, and a slice of veal beat with the back of a knife, and
seasoned with mace, pepper, and salt. Tie it on with a small
packthread, or two small fine skewers are better. Spit them
MADE DISHES. 119
on a fine bird spit, roast, and baste them with a piece of but-
ter, then with the yolk of an egg, and then baste them again
with the crumbs of bread, a little nutmeg, and sweet herbs.
When enough, serve them upon a goodcoulis, adding truffles,
morels, and mushrooms.
French Pupton Pigeons
HAVING put savory forcemeat, rolled out like paste, into a
tin "dish ; add a layer of very thin bacon, squab pigeons, sliced
sweetbread, asparagus tops, mushrooms, cocks-combs, a pa-
late boiled tender and cut into pieces, and the yolks of hard
eggs : make another forcemeat, and lay it over like a pie :
bake it, and when enough, turn it into a dish, and pour gravy
round it
Pigeons transmogrified.
SEASON your pigeons with pepper and salt. Take a large
piece of butter, make a puff-paste, and roll each pigeon in a
piece of paste. Tie them in a cloth, so that the paste do not
break, and boil them in a good deal of water. When the}'
have boiled an hour and a half, untie them carefully that they
do not break. Lay them on the dish, and pour a little good
gravy round them.
Pigeons d-la-Soussell.
BONE four pigeons, and make a forcemeat (see Sauces):
stuff them, and put them into a stewpan with a pint of veal
stock. Stew them half an hour very gently, and then take
them out : in the meantime make a veal forcemeat, and wrap
it all round them. Rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and
fry them of a nice brown in good dripping. Take the gravy
they were stewed in, skim off the fat, thicken with a leason
of eggs and cream. Season with pepper and salt, mix all
together, and stir one way till it is smooth. Strain it into
.your dish, and serve the pigeons on it: or instead of the leason
and cream ; glaze the breasts, and' serve on stewed sorrel,
with the gravy in a tureen.
Pigeons en Poqueton.
PUT some forcemeat into a small stewpan, and spread it at
the bottom and sides as a paste, rubbing your stewpan first
with butter. Put in a couple of pigeons, some sweetbreads
and palates neatly cut and ranged in your pan, and some fresh
mushrooms. Close the top with forcemeat, cover it over with
slices of bacon, and bake it in a gentle oven. Before you
close it, pour some gravy in the inside. Your pigeons, &c.
120 MADE DISHES.
should bfe seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little eschalot.
When done, turn it out carefully into your dii>h; and pour
into it a good coulis.
Partridges a la Braise.
TRUSS two braces of partridges with the legs in the
bodies: lard them, and season with beaten mace, pepper, and
salt. Take a stewpan, lay slices of bacon at the bottom, then
slices of beef, and then slices of veal, all cut thin ; a piece
of carrot, an onion cut small, a bundle of sweet herbs, and
some whole pepper. Lay the partridges with their breasts
downwards, lay some thin slices of beef and veal over them,
and some parsley shred fine. Cover them, and let them ste^r
eight or ten minutes over a slow fire. Then give your pan a
shake, and pour in a pint of weak stock. Cover close, and
let it stew half an hour over a little quicker fire. Then take
out the birds, and reduce the gravy till there is about half- a
pint : strain it off, and skim off the fat. In the meantime,
nave a veal sweetbread cut small, truffles and morels, cocks-
combs, and fowl's livers, stewed in a pint of good gravy half
an hour, some artichoke bottoms, and asparagus tops, both
blanched in warm water, and a few mushrooms. Then add
the other gravy to this, and put in your partridges to heat.
If not thick enough, take a piece of butter rolled in flour, and
toss up in it,
Pheasants a la Braise.
HAVING put a layer of beef all over your pan, a layer of
veal, a little piece of bacon, a piece of carrot, an onion stuck
with cloves, a blade or two or mace, a spoonful of pepper,
black and white, and a bundle of sweet herbs, lay in the
pheasant. Then lay a layer of beef, and a layer of veal, to
cover it. Set it on the fire for five or six minutes, and then
pour in two quarts of boiling stock. Cover close, aod let
it stew very softly an hour and a half. Then take up your
pheasant, and keep it hot: let the gravy boil till it is reduced
to about a pint, strain it off, and put it in again. Put in a
veal sweetbread, first being stewed with the pheasant: add
truffles and morels, some livers of fowls, artichoke bottoms,
and asparagus tops, if you have them : let these simrcer in the
gravy about five or six minutes, and add two spoonsful of ket-
chup, two of red wine, and a little piece of butter rolled in
flour, with a spoonful of browning. Shake all together, put
in your pheasant, let them stew altogether, with a few mush-
rooms, about five or six minutes more. Then take up your
pheasant, and pour your ragottt all over, with a few forcemeat
balls.
MADE DISHES. 121
Small Birds in savoury Jelly.
PUT a good piece of butter into the bellies of eight small
birds, with their heads and feet on, and sew up their vents.
Put them in a jug, cover it close with a cloth, and set them
in a kettle of boiling water, till they are enough. Drain them,
and make your jelly as before, and put a little into a mould :
when it is set, lay in three birds with their breasts down, and
cover them with the jelly : when this is set, put in the other
five, with their heads in the middle, and proceed in the same
manner as before directed for chickens.
FJorendine Hares.
LET the hare be a full grown one, and let it hang up four
or; five days before you case it. Leave on the ears, but take
out all the bones, except those of the head, which must be left
entire. Lay the hare on the table, and put into it the fol-
lowing forcemeat: take the crumb of a penny loaf, the liver
shred fine, half a pound of fat bacon scraped, a glass of red
wine, an anchovy, two eggs, a little winter savory, som6 sweet
marjoram, thyme, and a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg.
Having put this into the belly, roll it up to the head, skewer
it with packthread, as you would a collar of veal. Wrap it in
a cloth, and boil it an hour and a half, in a saucepan covered,
with two quarts of weak stock: as soon as the liquor is reduced
to about a quart, put in half a pint of red wine, a spoonful of
lemon pickle, one of ketchup, and the same of browning : stew
till it is reduced to a pint, and thicken it with butter rolled in
flour. Lay round your hare a few morels, and four slices of
forcemeat boiled in a veal caul. When you serve it up, draw
the jaw-bones, and stick them in the eyes for horns. Let the
ears lie back on the roll, and stick a sprig of myrtle in the
mouth. Serve on the sauce.
Florendine Rabbits.
SKIN three young rabbits, but leave on the ears, and wash
and dry them with a cloth. Carefully take out the bones,
but leave the head whole, and proceed in the same manner as
above directed for the hare. Have ready a white sauce made
of veul s:ock, a little anchovy, the juice of half a lemon, or a
tea-spoonful of lemon pickle. Strain it, and take a quarter
of a pound of butter rolled in flour, so as to make the sauce
pretty thick. Keep stirring it while the flour is dissolving.
Add a leason of eggs and cream, nutmeg, and salt, and mix
with the gravy : let it simmer a little over the fire, and pour
it over the rabbits.
122 MADE DISHES.
Rabbits Surprised.
TAKE young rabbits, skewer them, and put the same pud-
ding into them as directed for roasted rabbits. When roasted,
draw out the jaw-bones, and stick them in the eyes to appear
like horns. Then take offthe meat clean from the bones ; but
the bones must be left whole. Chop the meat very fine, with
a little shred parsley, some lemon-peel, an ounce of beef mar-
row, a spoonful of cream, and a little salt: beat up the yolks
of two eggs boiled hard, and a small piece of butter, in a
marble mortar; then mix all together, and put it into a stew-
pan : having stewed it five minutes, lay it on the rabbit where
you took the meat off, and put it close down with your hand,
to make it appear like a whole rabbit : brush it over with yolk
of egg, strew over it grated bread, and with a salamander
brown it all over: pour a good brown coulis, made as thick
as cream, into the dish, and stick a bunch of myrtle into their
mouths.
Rabbits in Casserole.
HAVING divided your rabbits into quarters, you may lard
them or not. Shake some flour over them, and fry them in
lard or butter : put them into an earthen pan, with a quart of
good stock, a glass of white wine, a little pepper and salt, a
bunch of sweet herbs, and a small piece of butter rolled in
flour: cover close, and let them stew half an hour; then serve
them up, and pour the sauce over them.
Turtle.
TAKE a turtle weighing one hundred pounds; the evening
before you dress it, tie a cord to the two hind fins, and
hang it up : tie a cord in like manner to the fore fins to pinion
it; and cut off the head. Lay the turtle with the back shell
downwards upon a block, anil loose the shell all round the
edge by cutring it, and raise the shell clean off the flesh :
take out the gall without breaking it ; cut the fore fins off,
and all the flesh will come away with them : cut off the hind
fins ; takeout the liver whole, and the heart and kidneys : cut
out the entrails from the back bone, and put them into a large
pan : wash the shell so as to free it from the blood, and turn
it down to drain : cut the fins from tiie lean meat ; and cut the
belly shell into twelve pieces : turn up the back shell, and take
all the fat from it. putting it into a stewpan : saw off the upper
part of the back shell about six inches deep : set a large stew-
pan full of water upon the fire, and when it boils, dip the fins,
head, and pieces of shell, separately into it, clearing each as it
MADE DISHES. 125
is scalded, peeling the fins, head, and shell: put the pieces of
shell into a stewpan with eighteen large onions ; and a faggot
of turtle herbs; and having filled it with water, make it boil,
and then set by the side of the fire to simmer till they are
tender: cut the fore fins into four, and the hind ones into two
pieces ; and having put them into a stewpan that will exactly
hold them ; add twelve large onions and a faggot of turtle
herbs; cover with water and set on a stove to boil; when it
boils, set by the side of the fire to simmer till the fins are ten-
der: draw out all the bones and put them by themselves on a
dish ; take up the pieces of shell on another dish, and strain
the liquor both were boiled in, into one pan : cut off the lean
meat, and let what is not reserved for the callipee, be added,
together with three fowls, a faggot of turtle herbs, a dozen
large onions, and two pounds of lean ham : put the ham at
the bottom of a soup-pot, with the fowls cut in pieces, and
the lean meat over them, adding a bottle of madeira, and set
the pot on a stove to draw-down, taking care it does not
burn : let it stew an hour, and fill it up with the liquor strained
from the fins and pieces of shell; and when it boils, set it by
the side of the fire ,to stew for two hours : strain it off, taking
what lean meat may be wanted for the tureens, and keep it
covered with stock that it may be hot : scour and scald the
entrails quite clean, cutting them into pieces about two inches
long ; and set them on in cold water to blanch : having washed
them clean, cover the bottom of a stewpan with fat bacon, put
in the entrails with the liver blanched, adding a few onions,
two lemons peeled and cut into slices, a quart of stock, and
cover with fat bacon, letting them stew gently for three hours :
put two pounds of butter into a stewpan with a pound of lean
ham cut small, some mushrooms, truffles, eschalots, parsley,
marjoram, thyme, basil, a large onion, and a pint of stock ;
set the stewpan over a stove to stew for an hour, add a plate-
ful of flour by degrees, and the remainder of the turtle stock
that the fins and shell were stewed in : to these add four or
five quarts of rich veal stock, and a bottle of madeira : let it
boil for a few minutes, and rub it through a tamis : take one
half of this soup, and put it into a soup-pot with the lean meat
cut in pieces about two inches square, forcemeat balls and
egg balls, to be served in tureens: take the other half of the
soup, and having put it into a soup-pot, add the fins and head
cut in pieces, together with forcemeat balls and egg balls, to
be served in tureens : put the green fat to stew with a little
stock and madeira ; and when done, cut it into small pieces,
and add it to each of the soup-pots : take a little of the soup
out of each pot, and season with cayenne, pounded spices,
and salt; and divide it equally: just before the turtle is
124 MADE DISHES.
served, squeeze into a bason four lemons, and three Seville
oranges, adding a pint of madeira, a table-spoonful of pounded
sugar, and a little salt : divide this equally between the soup-
pots, and servo in tureens.
Callipee.
TAKE a quarter of the under part of the turtle, and scald
it ; taking out the shoulder-bone, and filling the cavity with
a well high seasoned forcemeat made with the lean of the
turtle ; put it into a stewpan, with a pint of madeira, cayenne,
salt, lemon juice, a clove of garlic, mace, cloves, allspice
pounded, faggot of turtle herbs, six large onions, and four
quarts of strong veal stock ; and stew gently till three parts
done : take up the turtle, and put it into another stewpan
with some of the entrails boiled, and egg balls; add a thick-
ening of flour and butter to the liquor, let it boil, and strain it
to the turtle : stew till tender, and serve in a deep dish, having
a border of paste ornamented, and previously baked.
Mock Turtle without Calves Head.
TAKE three cow-heels, and having cut them in pieces, stew
till tender in four quarts of second stock : add five anchovies,
a piece of butter, salt, cayenne, mace, cloves, shred lemon-
peel, three leeks, parsley, and lemon-thyme, all finely shred :
stew gently for two hours : cut two pounds of lean veal into
small pieces, fry in butter of a light brown, and add to the
above, with a pint of madeira, four spoonfuls of ketchup, and
stew another hour: have ready some forcemeat balls and egg
balls, which add a quarter of an hour before serving, and im-
mediately before put into the tureen, add the juice of two
lemons.
Mock Turtle of Calves Head.
TAKE a scalp cleaned by the butcher, scald for twenty mi-
nutes, wash it clean, and cut into pieces two inches square ;
add four quarts of veal stock, and boil till nearly done : take
two pounds of veal cut into pieces about an inch square, and
stew in a quart of strong veal stock, seasoned with a faggot of
turtle herbs, six onions, cayenne, salt, mace, and cloves; stew
fill tender, and strain, adding the meat and strained liquor to
the head, &c. : let the whole stew a quarter of an hour adding
a pint of madeira, forcemeat balls, and egg balls : just before
serving, squeeze in the juice of a large lemon.
Or having scalded a calf's head with the skin on, saw it in
two ; take out the brains, tie up the head in a cloth, and boil
it one hour: cut the meat in small square pieces, and throw
MADE DISHES. 1 25
them into cold water, washing them clean : put the meat into
a stewpan with a sufficient quantity of good veal stock to cover
it; let it boil till tender, and remove it from the fire: into
another stewpan put half a pound of butter, the same of lean
ham cut fine, parsley, thyme, eschalots, mushrooms, marjo-
ram, basil, and four onions, all chopped very fine, and add a
pint of stock : let them all simmer for two hours ; strain, and
thicken with flour, adding stock sufficient to make two tu-
reens, and a bottle of madeira ; let it boil five minutes, add
forcemeat balls, egg balls, and the meat with the stock; sea-
son with cayenne, salt, and pounded spices : let the whole
heat thoroughly without boiling, add the juice of a lemon and
Seville orange, and serve immediately.
Souties of Carp, Tench, Salmon, Eels.
HAVING cleaned the fish, bone and cut them into thin col-
lops ; flat, and put them into a souties-pan prepared in the
following manner: having taken a bit of fresh butter, shake it
over the fire till melted, sprinkling thyme, parsley, eschalot,
and a little basil, all finely shred, and seasoned with white pep-
per, salt, and cayenne : shake the fish gently over a stove till
half done ; and having turned the slices, continue to move the
pan till they are enough : take them up, place them round a
dish, and change the herbs, &c. into a small stewpan, adding
a glass of claret or port, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy,
the same of oyster ketchup and lemon pickle, a lump of sugar,
and half a pint of good coulis : boil for a few minutes, and
having strained the sauce through a tamis, pour it into the
middle of the dish.
Souties of Haddocks, Co4, Me.
HAVING boned the fish, cut them into collops ; butter a
souties-pan, and sprinkle it with pepper and salt ; and having
flatted the collops, put them on the souties-pan: set them on
a stove for five minutes, turn them and put them on a dish :
put the liquor that comes from the fish into a stewpan with
half a pint of benshamelle (see Sauces ) , a tea-spoonful of
essence of anchovies, the same of garlic, vinegar, and lemon
pickle, and half a tea-spoonful of sugar; let "the whole boil,
and serve over the fish.
Entree of Crimped Cod.
TAKE a slice of crimped cod three inches thick, put it into
boiling salt and water, and let it boil ten minutes : when cold,
prick it into flakes, and dip each flake separately into the fol-
lowing batter : two spoonsful of flour, one of sweet oil, and
126 MADE DISHES.
the same of white wine, seasoned with a little salt and white
pepper: fry in boiling lard till of a nice brown; and having
drained them dry, serve with fried parsley round, and oyster
sauce in a tureen.
Entree of Fish in a Mould.
HAVING wiped the mould clean, rub the inside with fresh
butter, and strew over the bottom a layer of grated Parmezan
cheese an inch thick, and upon that another layer of boiled
ribband maccaroni : upon this, place slices offish boned, and
strewed with parsley, thyme, and eschalots, kitchen pepper,
and cayenne, all shred fine: on these lay maccaroni and Par-
mezan cheese, as at first : put the mould into a moderate
oven, bake it an hour, turn it out, and serve with a goodcoulis
round it.
Entree of Eels.
HAVING skinned and ',oned two large eels, cut them in
pieces three inches long ; pass them over a fire in a small
quantity of sweet herbs and eschalots chopped very fine, fresh
butter, pepper, salt, and lemon juice : when three parts done,
put all on a dish, dip each piece into the liquor, roll it in
grated bread, and broil it : serve with anchovy sauce.
Entree of Soles.
HAVING cleaned and filleted the soles, roll them up ; put
them into a stewpan, adding a little fresh butter, lemon juice,
pepper, and salt, and simmer over a slow fire till done : serve
with a strong coulis coloured with pounded lobster spawn,
adding to it a few button onions, mushrooms, sliced pickled
cucumbers, cayenne, and salt.
Entree of Fillets of Soles.
HAVING boned and filleted the soles, roll them up, tying
them with thread : wipe one half of them dry, dip them in
egg, roll in grated bread, and fry of a nice brown : boil the
other half in salt and water, and place them alternately in the
dish, with nicely coloured lobster sauce under them.
Entree of Salmon.
HAVING made white paper cases, put a little sweet oil in
the bottom of each : cut the salmon into pieces, pepper and
salt them, and put them into the cases : set them on a baking
plate over the fire, or put them into the oven : when done,
serve Avith a poached egg on each, and anchovy sauce in a
tureen.
MADE DISHES. 127
Entree of Skate.
BOIL four or five rings of crimped skate in strong salt and
water for ten minutes : drain dry, and serve with the following
sauce over it : a gill of weak veal stock, a gill of melted butter,
a gill of cream, the yolks of four eggs, and a little mustard,
beaten well together, to these add the liver previously boiled
and rubbed through a sieve, a little chopped parsley, white
pepper and salt ; let the whole warm thoroughly, but not
boil.
Entree ofMackarel.
HAVING split them down the back, season with white pepper
and salt, and lay a sprig of fennel in each : broil them gently,
take out the fennel, and serve with the following sauce :
melted butter, green onions and parsley chopped vety small,
white pepper, salt, and lemon juice.
Entree of any kind of Fish in Balls,
HAVING boned the fish, pound it in a mortar, adding to it
parsley, thyme, basil, and eschalots, chopped very fine;
kitchen pepper, a spoonful of white wine, cayenne, salt, grated
bread, half a gill of cream, and the yolks of four eggs ; mix
all well together, and roll into small balls : put them into boil-
ing water, simmer for a quarter of an hour, drain dry, and
serve with a strong coulis over them.
Fillets of Salmon.
HAVING cut six thin slices of Salmon, flat them gently ;
brush them over with yolk of egg, season with white pepper
and salt, roll them up, tying them with thread, and put them
into a stewpan that will just hold them : cover them with
bacon, and add half a pint of stock, and set the stewpan on a
stove for half an hour: take up the salmon, skim the liquor,
add a gill of coulis, a glass of madeira, a tea-spoonful of
essence of anchovy, a small lump of sugar, a few chopped
capers, cayenne, and salt : let the sauce simmer, and serve
with the fish over it.
Fillets of Soles.
HAVING filleted a pair of soles, shred two of the fillets and
as much fat bacon, and put them into a mortar with a little
parsley and eschalots shred : pound these, and add two ounces
of grated bread previously soaked in cream, the yolk of an
egg, two anchovies washed, boned, and shred, white pepper
128 MADE DISHES.
and salt : pound these well together, and having flattened the
fillets, brush them over with yolk of egg, and spread over
them a thin sheet of the above force : roll them up, tying the
rolls with thread ; and having lined a tart,pan Avith sheets of
fat bacon, put in the rolls, cover with sheets of fat bacon, and
add a little stock : put the tart-pan into a slow oven for half
an hour, take up the rolls, and serve with Italian sauce over
them.
'Fillets of Whitings.
HAVING boned and filleted the whitings, put the fillets for
five minutes into boiling water ; take them up, and serve, with
Italian sauce over them.
Fillets of Sturgeon
ARE to be dressed exactly in the way already directed for
soles, except that a very little garlic finely shred may be
added to the farce : serve with sauce royal over them.
Matelot of Carp and Tench.
HAVING scaled and cleaned the fish, put them into a stew-
pan with a pint of port wine, a pint of stock, two dozen small
onions, a quart of mushrooms, a faggot of turtle herbs, and a
few blades of mace: set it on a stove for half an hour: into
another stewpan put an ounce of. butter, parsley, eschalots,
'four anchovies, all shred ; set these on the fire for a minute or
two, taking care that they do not burn, and add a gill of stock :
let this simmer till the fish is done ; take up the fish, mix the
contents of both stewpans together, let them boil, strain
through a tamis, a"nd serve over the fish, with two dozen
blanched oysters.
Salmon it la Royale.
HAVING skinned and cleaned a large eel, take out the bone,
chop the meat quite fine, adding two anchovies, a little lemon
peel shred fine, peppe; , grated nutmeg, parsley, and yolk of
an egg boiled hard anH shred: mix all together, and roll up
in a piece of butter ; a.id with this make a stuffing for a hand-
some piece of the salmon : lay the fish in a stewpan that will
just hold it, adding half a pound of fresh butter, and when it
is melted shake in a little flour, and stir till it is brown : to
this put a pint of fish-stock (see Sauces)^ pint of madeira, an
onion, a faggot of turtle-herbs, and season with kitchen pep-
per ; let the whole stew till nearly done, and add mushroom
powder, truffles, and morels; when quite done, take up the
salmon, and strain the sauce over it.
MADE DISHES. 129
Turbot, Soles, and Flat Fish, a la Francoise.
HAVING cleaned the fish, put them into an earthen dish,
with u quart of water and half a pint of vinegar; let them lie
two hours, take them out, dry them with a cloth, and put them
into a stewpan, with a pint of white wine, a quarter of a pint
of water, a little marjoram, winter savory, and an onion stuck
with four cloves, sprinkle in a little bay-salt, cover close, and
stew till done: take up the fish, and keep it warm: to the
liquor add a piece of butter rolled in flour, boil till sufficiently
thick, and strain over the fish.
Matelot of Tench, Carp, Pike, and Perch.
HAVING scaled and cleaned the fish, put them into a stewpan
with a pint of stock, a pint of port wine, two dozen button
onions, half a pottle of mushrooms, a few blades of mace, and
a faggot of turtle herbs ; set it on to stew for half an hour ;
take out the fish, and to the liquor add, chopped parsley,
eschalots, three anchovies, and half a pint of good coulis ; let
the whole boil well, and having strained it through a tamis,
add two dozen blanched oysters, and a little lemon juice, and
serve over the fish.
Lobster (hot). ,
PICK the meat from the shells of two lobsters, and put them
into a stewpan with some melted butter, a table spoonful of
essence of anchovy, a little white pepper, salt, and powdered
mace : stew all together, and shake the pan till the lobster is
thoroughly hot ; or add a little lemon juice, or lemon pickle*
Lobsler in the shell (hot) .
CUT the fleshy parts of two or three middling sized lobsters
into small squares, and season them : put the contents of the
body into a rnortar, with a quarter of a pound of butter, and
some white pepper and salt; pound it well, and puJp through
a sieve : boil a little good stock, and add the Hesh of the lob-
sters : when cold, put the meat into the body shells, and lay
the forced meat that has been pulped evenly over it; sprinkle
it with grated bread, put it into the oven to heat, and serve
with a good coulis under it.
Lobster (cold).
TAKE the flesh as whole as possible from the tails and claws,
and having split the tail, make the sauce in the following man-
ner : bruise the yolks of two hard boiled eggs, and when
1 30 MADE DISHES.
rubbed fine, add a little mustard, oil, vinegar, essence of an-
chovy, white pepper, salt, and a little elder vinegar.
Crab (hot}.
BEAT the flesh and inside of a crab in a marble-mortar, with
white pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and crumbs of bread ; to
this add half a pint of good veal stock, and two spoonsful of
wine: put the whole into a stewpan with some butter rolled in
flour, and when quite hot, add a little lemon juice.
Crab (cold).
To be dressed in the same manner as lobster.
Cucumbers with Eggs.
PARE, quarter, and cut six large cucumbers into squares,
about the size of a dice. Put them into boiling water, and
give them a boil : take them out of the water, and put them into
a stewpan, with an onion stuck with cloves, a slice of ham, a
quarter of a pound of butter, and a little salt. Set it over the
fire a quarter of an hour, keep it close covered, skim it well,
and shake it often, for it is apt to burn. Then dredge in a
little flour, and put in as much veal stock as will just cover the
cucumbers. Stir it well together, and keep a gentle fire
under it till no scum will rise. Then take out the ham and
onion, and put in the yolks of two eggs beat up with a tea-
cup full of good cream. Stir it well for a minute, then take
it off the fire, and just before you put it into a dish, squeeze in
a little lemon juice. Lay on the top of it five or six poached
eggs-
Potatoes, Puree of.
BOIL the pared potatoes in very good stock ; rub them
through a tamis, and add a little sauce tournay.
SANDWICHES. Shrimps.
Pur a layer of potted shrimps, between two slices of bread
and butter, and with a mould cut them into shapes.
Lampreys.
To be made as directed for shrimps.
Lobsters and Anchovies.
To be made as directed for shrimps.
Beef, Ham, Chicken, Veal, Game, fa.
To be made as directed for shrimps.
MADE DISHES. 131
Cold Meat.
TAKE equal quantities of butter and grated Cheshire cheese,
and a sufficient quantity of mustard, beat the whole in a
mortar, and having spread it upon thin slices of bread, lay
on it thin slices of cold meat, cover with bread, and cut into
shapes with a mould.
Cheshire Sandwich.
TAKE anchovies, Cheshire cheese, and butter, in equal pro-
portions ; made mustard to the palate; pound well in a marble
mortar, and with this composition spread thin slices of bread,
and cover with thin slices of any kind of cold meat, and again
with bread, &c. : cut into shapes.
/, with gravy.
CUT two chickens into pieces, and fry gently in butter,
strewing over them at the same time three table spoonsful of
curry powder: have ready fried six large onions chopped
small ; put these with the chickens and a pint of veal stock
into a stewpan ; cover closely, and stew gently till tender:
just before serving up, add the juice of a lemon. As curry
is generally eaten with rice, the East India mode of dressing
it is subjoined :
Rice.
TAKE half a pound of Patna rice, wash it in salt and water j
strain and put it into two quarts of boiling water ; let it boil
twenty minutes, and strain through a colander ; set the co-
lander before the fire for the rice to dry, and when perfectly
so, shake the colander over the dish, so that every grain of rice
may be separated. Carolina rice will require a pint more
water.
Curry ) without gravy.
HAVING cut a chicken into pieces, take a table spoonful of
curry powder, and a tea-spoonful of powdered turmeric, mix
together in a mortar with a little water, add a clove of garlic
finely shred, and beat them well ; add a little salt and water,
and rub part of this mixture over each piece of the chicken :
put a large piece of butter into a stewpan, and hold it over
the fire till completely melted, and having sliced a large onion,
put together with the chicken into the melted butter, and fry
till thoroughly done : before serving up. add a little lemon-
juice.
K2
132 MADE DISHES.
Curry of Pork, Mutton, Giblets, Lobsters, and Prawns,
A.Uf. made in either of the ways above described.
Burdwan, Indian, to be dressed at table.
CUT up a boiled fowl, and put it into a pan over a lamp,
with three table spoonsful of essence of anchovy, three table
spoonsful of madeira, a little water, a lump of butter rolled in
flour, a large onion shred fine, cayenne and salt : stew till the
onions are tender.
Burdwan, English, to be dressed at table.
TAKE either cold rabbit, fowl, veal, or lamb, and having
cut it into pieces, put it into a pan over a lamp, with as much
good gravy as will cover it : add a piece of butter rolled in
Hour, an onion shred fine, two spoonsful of .essence of an-
chovy, a glass of port wine, cayenne and salt : stew slowly for
a quarter of an hour.
Brado Fogado.
HAVING picked and washed some spinach very clean, put it
into a stewpan without water; when enough, squeeze the
liquor from it. Shred some onions, and fry them in butter :
put to the spinach, a pint of shrimps cleared from the shell,
or the tail of a large lobster shred small, a table spoonful of
curry powder, a little water, and salt: stir well together, adding
the fried onions, and let the whole stew a quarter of an hour,
without burning.
A Solama-gundy.
TAKE a handful of parsley, two pickled herrings, four boiled
eggs, both yolks and whites, and the white part of a roasted
chicken. " Chop them separately, and exceedingly small.
Take the lean of some boiled ham scraped fine, and turn a
china bason upside down in the middle of a dish. Make a
quarter of a pound of butter into the shape of a pine-apple, arid
set it on the bason's bottom. Lay round your bason a ring of
shred parsley, then a ring of yolks of eggs, then whites, then
ham, then chickens, and then herrings, till you have covered
your bason, and disposed of all the ingredients. Lay the
bones of the pickled herrings upon it, with their tails up to
the butter, and let their heads lie *on the edge of the dish.
Lay a few capers, and three or four pickled oysters round the
dish.
MADE DISHES. 133
Maccaroni.
HAVING boiled four ounces of maccaroni till quite tender,
lay it on a sieve to drain, and then put it into a tossing-pari,
with ahout a gill of cream, and a piece of butter rolled in flour.
Boil it five minutes, pour it on a plate, lay Parmesan cheese
all over it, brown with a salamander, and send it up on a water-
plate.
Omelettes.
BEAT six eggs, strain them through a hair sieve, and put
them into a frying-pan, with a quarter of a pound of hot but-
ter. Throw in a little boiled ham scraped fine, a little shred
parsley, and season with pepper, . salt, and nutmeg. Fry it
brown on the under side, and lay it on your dish, but do not
turn it. Hold a hot salamander over it for half a minute, to
take off the raw look of the eggs.
Omelette of Asparagus.
BEAT up six eggs with cream, boil some of the largest and
finest asparagus, and when boiled cut off all the green in small
pieces. Mix them with the eggs, and put in some pepper
and salt. Make a slice of butter hot in a pan, put them in, and
serve them on buttered toast.
Ramequins.
BRUISE in a stewpan a piece of Parmesan or mild Cheshire
cheese, with about a quarter of a pound of butter, half a pint
of cold water, a very little salt, and an anchovy minced very
fine. Let it all boil, and put as much flour as the, sauce re-
quires to thicken it. Let it dry upon a slow fire, until it be-
comes like thick batter. Then put it into another stewpan,
and beat up as many eggs as the butter can bear without be-
coming too liquid, for it should be rather stiff'. Serve in
square papers, pinched up at the four corners, and lay them
on a tin, which you must put into the oven until they become
of a fine yellow brown : then serve.
1 34 FRUGAL DISHES.
CHAPTER XIII.
FRUGAL DISHES.
Bee/ and Cabbage.
V^UT the cabbage in slices as for pickling, and having rubbed
the bottom of an iron pot with butter, put in layer of cabbage,
either white or red, seasoned with white pepper ; on this place
a piece of salted beef, cover it with the remainder of the
cabbage, and over the whole pour a quart of boiling water :
cover the pot close, and let the whole stew gently till enough :
a piece of bacon may be added if approved of.
Leg of Beef (See Plate.)
WITH a sharp knife cut off all the meat, leaving the gristly
part fast to the bone : saw the bone into several pieces, and
put them with three gallons of water, six onions, four carrots,
sweet herbs, two leeks, a little allspice, salt, and black pepper,
into an iron pot to stew over the fire all night : in the morning
ski in off the fat, and having cut the meat into thick slices, fry
it a nice brown with a part of the fat thus skimmed ; the re-
mainder will make good pie crust. In the same pan fry six
large onions ; put these and the slices of meat, together with a
xjuart of table beer, into the pot with the liquor of the bones,
adding more onions, carrots, turnips, &c. : let the whole stew
gently eight hours ; take up the meat, and strain the liquor
over it.
Pepper Pol.
To one gallon of water, take three pounds of neck of mut-
ton and a pound of pickled pork; to these add, in summer,
pease, spinach, lettuce, onions, and sweet herbs; in winter,
carrots, turnips, celery, onions, and sweet herbs : put the
whole into a pot, and when boiling, skim it ; season with
pepper and salt, and stew gently till enough. A pepper-pot
may be made with a variety of things, observing a proper pro-
portion of each.
Vegetable Soup.
TAKE any cold meat, bones, &c. ; add carrots, onions, tur-
nips, celery, pepper, and salt : put these with a proper pro-
portion of water into a pot ; stew gently four or five hours ;
FRUGAL DISHES. 135
strain off the bones, vegetables, &c. ; and adding fresh vege-
tables cut in the form of a dice ; simmer till tender, and
serve.
Cold roasted Beef, different modes of dressing.
HAVING cut the beef into very thin slices, season with pep-
per, salt, and a very little ground allspice ; to these add a hand-
ful of parsley, and an onion, shred small : put these into a
small saucepan : take the bones of the meat, break them small,
put them into a saucepan with an onion, carrot, thyme, and
other sweet herbs, all shred, and draw a little good gravy :
strain this gravy into the saucepan with the meat, adding a
giJI of table beer and a a spoonful of vinegar : let it simmer
very gently a. quarter of an hour, and stir in the yolks of two
eggs previously well beaten : serve immediately.
Or, having made the gravy as in the former receipt, cut the
meat and fat into rather thicker slices, dredge them with
flour, and fry of a nice brown: chop an eschalot and an-
chovy, put them into a small saucepan, and add the fried beef,
and the gravy strained upon it, season with pepper and salt;
let the whole simmer very gently till thoroughly hot: add two
spoonsful of vinegar, ana serve.
Or, having prepared the gravy as before directed, cut the
meat into slices half an inch thick, and four inches square ; on
these spread a forcemeat of grated bread, cold fat, eschalot,
and an anchovy, all shred fine ; season with pepper and salt,
roll them up, tie with tape or string, and put them into a
saucepan, pouring on them the drawn gravy, and stewing very
gently till tender.
Or, having prepared the gravy as above, mince the beef
with an onion, anchovy, pepper, and salt ; add a little gravy,
and put the meat into escalop shells, or saucers, till three
parts full ; fill the remaining part with mashed potatoes, and
put them into an oven, or Dutch oven, to brown.
Or, having prepared the gravy as above, mince the meat,
and add to it grated bread, onion, anchovy, parsley, and
lemon-peel, all shred very fine ; put these into a saucepan
with a bit of butter to warm, stir all well together ; let it cool,
and make into balls with yolk of egg, strewing grated bread
over them : fry of a nice brown, thicken the gravy with a little
flour, strain it on the dish, and serve the balls upon it.
Beef a la Vinaigrette.
CUT slices of undone cold boiled beef about two inches
thick, and stew in a gill of water, a gill of vinegar, and a gill
of table beer : to these 1 add an onion stuck with cloves, a fag-.
136 FRUGAL DISHES.
got of sweet herbs, and having seasoned to the palate, stew
till the liquor is nearly consumed, and turning it once. When
cold, skim off the fat, strain the liquor, adding a little vinegar
to it, and serve with the beef.
Ox Heart,
HAVING cut off the deaf ears, wash them, and put them
Into a saucepan with an onion stuck with four cloves, two
large onions sliced, a carrot sliced, sweet herbs, pepper, and
salt : set these by the side of the fire to stew for gravy : \vash
and wipe the heart clean, stuff it with forcemeat made of
grated bread, suet shred, parsley and thyme chopped, and
season with pepper and salt : skewer up the holes that the
stuffing may not come out, and roast gently for an hour and
an half; or bake it : strain the gravy over it, and serve.
Ox Cheek.
HAVING boned and washed the cheek clean, tie it up like a
rump of beef, and put it into a stewpan with a pint of water
and a pint of table beer ; when it boils, skim it, and add two
carrots cut in pieces, a turnip, two large onions sliced, and
one stuck with two cloves, a faggot of sweet herbs, pepper
and salt : let the cheek stew till nearly done, take it up, strain
the liquor, return it into the same stewpan, adding half a gill
of ketchup, a spoonful of vinegar, white pepper and salt to the
palate; put in the cheek ; and having stewed till tender, serve
with the gravy.
Bubble and Squeak.
TAKE cold boiled cabbage or greens of any kind, and having
chopped them, add a little butter, pepper and salt; fry all
together, and keep warm in a dish before the fire: fry some
slices of underdone beef slightly, and serve upon the fried
cabbage.
Coifs Liver roasted.
HAVING washed and wiped the liver, cut a long hole in it,
and fill with a forcemeat of grated bread, an anchovy chopped,
fat bacon chopped, swe-et herbs and an onion finely shred, a
bit of butter, the yolk of an egg, salt and pepper: sow up the
hole, and having covered the liver with a caul, roast it gently :
serve with gravy made from bones of any kind, with an onion,
sweet herbs, a gill of table beer, and the same of water ; all
well stewed, and strained over the liver.
FRUGAL DISHES. 137
Liver and Lights.
TAKE an equal quantity of liver and lights, and boil them ;
cut them into mince, adding a few spoonsful of the liquor they
were boiled in, a bit of butter rolled in flour, salt, pepper,
a little ketchup, and a spoonful of vinegar : let the whole
simmer a few minutes, and serve on sippets of toasted bread.
Pickled Mackard or Caveach. ,
HAVING cleaned the mackarel, divide them along the back,
and fry them in oiled butter of a nice brown: when cold,
lay them in a large pot, and cover them with boiling vinegar,
prepared in the following manner : take a sufficient quantity
of vinegar, and put into it pepper, allspice, a few cloves, and
a blade of mace, all beaten to powder ; let the whole boil till
the goodness is extracted from the spices, add salt to the pa-
late, and strain over the fried mackarel.
China Chilo.
MINCE a pound of raw mutton with a little of its fat, add two
onions and a lettuce sliced, a pint of green pease,- half a gill
of water, three ounces of clarified butter, season with white
pepper and salt, and simmer gently in a stewpan closely co-
vered, for two hours : serve in the middle of a dish of plain
boiled rice.
N. B. When the rice is boiled, pour it into a colander, let
it remain till all the water is run off, and lightly shake it into
the dish, so that every grain may appear separated from the
rest.
Calf's Liver, Bacon, Eggs, and Herbs.
TAKE two large handfuls of green parsley, one of green
onions, and chop them together very small ; clean and drain
a good quantity of spinage, and having put it into a stewpan,
sprinkle it in layers with the chopped onions and parsley :
add a little butter, white pepper, and salt ; let the whole stew
very gently ; and when done, serve in the middle of the dish,
with fried liver, bacon, and eggs alternately.
Haddocks and Whitings, to dry and dress.
CHOOSE the largest, and having taken out the gills, eyes,
and entrails, remove the blood from the back bone : wipe
dry, and put salt into the eyes and bellies ; lay them on a board
138 FRUGAL DISHES.
for a night, hang them up in the chimney corner, and in three
days they will be fit to dress in the following manner : take
oft the skin, rub them over with yolk of egg. strew grated
bread over them, put them into a Dutch oven, oaste with but-
ter, and serve with egg sauce.
*
Pig's Harslet.
WASH and dry some liver, pig's sweetbreads, and fat and
lean pieces of meat, trimmed from the chine, or hams ; season
with white pepper, salt, sage, and an onion, shred fine; mix
all together, and having sewed them in the pig's caul, roast
by a string before the fire : serve with gravy made from the
bones, onion, sweet herbs, &c.
Herrings to dry and dress.
CLEAN and lay them in salt and a little saltpetre for one
night : run a stick through their eyes, and let its ends rest
upon the sides of a wide cask, into which you have previously
put some sawdust ; on the sawdust drop a red-hot heater,
and let the herrings be thus smoked twenty-four hours ; they
are best dressed in the following manner : pour over them a
sufficient quantity of boiling table beer, in which let them
soak for half an hour : drain them dry, put them on a toast-
ingfork before the fire till they are hot through, and serve with
egg sauce, or butter and mustard.
Hatch Patch.
TAKE a knuckle of veal, and a scrag of mutton, put them
into a saucepan with three pints of water, four large onions
fried, a piece of butter rolled in flour, a quart of pease, two
lettuces, and four whole onions; season with white pepper
and salt, and stew gently till perfectly tender.
Or take bones of any sort, add to them the vegetables as
above, and when they have stewed an hour and a half, take
out the bones, and add some fried mutton, lamb, or beef-
steaks fried : let these stew gently half an hour, and serve.
Jugged Hare.
HAVING skinned and cleaned an old hare, cut it up in pieces,
and season them with kitchen pepper, common pepper, and
salt ; lay these in a jar with some sweet herbsj three onions
with a clove in each, and two spoonsful of ketchup and vine-
gar : tie the jar with a bladder, put a little hay in the bottom
of a saucepan, in which place the jar, and pour in water till
it is as high as the neck : let the saucepan boil for five hours,
FRUGAL DISHES. 139
filling it up as the water wastes : take up the pieces of hare,
place them in a deep dish ; strain the gravy, and thicken it
with flour and butter, and serve over the hare.
Soy, English, for .Roasted Meat, Poultry, and Fish.
TAKE green walnuts as for pickling, cut them in pieces, and
pound in a mortar ; squeeze all the juice through a sieve, and
to every pint of it, put a pound of anchovies : boil till the an-
chovies are dissolved, and strain through a sieve : boil again,
adding eight e^cfaiots shred, three clones of garlic, allspice,
and whok- pepper ; after these have boiled a short time, add a
pint of vinegar, and a bottle of strong stale ale or beer: boil
till the esctiaiots are tender ; strain through a sieve, and when
cold, bottle for use in small bottles.
Pilchard or Herring, and Leek Pie.
CUT the white part of some large leeks, wash them in cold
water, drain them, and having scalded them in milk and
water, put a la-er of them into the dish, and upon them either
salted pilchards or herrings, which have soaked for a day in
water : upon these place another layer of the cut leeks; cover
with a plain crust (see PicsJ, and when baked, raise the side
crust, pour off the liquor, and through the same hole pour
half a pint of scalded cream.
Marrow Bones.
Having sawed off both ends of the bone, tie a piece of clean
rag dipped in boiling water and floured over each, put into
boiling water, and when enough, serve in the middle of a
dish, with dry toast round it.
Ox Cheek.
CLEANSE a cheek the day before using it, and let it soak
all night in salt and water ; wipe clean and put into a stew-
pan with two quarts of water, and a quart of table beer : after
it has boiled up, skim it well, and let it simmer gently for two
hours, skimming it frequently : then add, six onions cut in
slices and fried brown with flour, four large onions with a
clove in each, three turnips cut in quarters, two carrots, two
leeks also cut, pepper and salt : let it slew till perfectly ten-
der ; take out the cheek, keep it hot, strain the gravy, and
xvhen cold, take off the fat ; heat the gravy afresh, and serve
in a tureen or bowl, with the cheek in it.
14O FRUGAL DISHES.
Cow Heels.
BOIL till tender, (save the liquor they were boiled in and
use it in making soup), and serve with melted butter, mus-
tard and vinegar ; or parsley and butter.
Or, having cut the heel into four parts, dip them in yolk of
egg, strew grated bread over then), and fry of a nice brown*
in dripping : fry sliced onions, lay them in the middle of the
dish, and the heel round it.
Herrings baked.
GUT, wash, and drain the herrings without wiping them ;
rub them over with saltpetre, and let them lie all night
on a board. Having put them into an earthen pan, sprinkle
them over with povvdered allspice, black pepper, and salt ;
cover them over with equal parts of vinegar and table beer,
adding t\vo whole onions with two cloves in each, and a few
bay-leaves: cover the pan with paper, and having tied it
down, bake them in a slow oven.
Sprats baked.
SPRATS are done in the same manner as herrings, but they
do not require gutting.
Beef Steaks stewed.
FRY the steaks of a nice brown, with an onion sliced ; pour
on them half a pint of table beer, half a pint of water, a
spoonful of vinegar, a spoonful of ketchup, pepper and salt:
let them stew in the pan very gently for half an hour; take
up the steaks, and having thickened the gravy with a bit of
butter rolled in flour, strain over the steaks.
Irish Stew.
CUT a piece of -the best end of a neck of mutton into thin
chops; pare a sufficient quantity of unboiled potatoes, and cut
them also into thin slices ; shred four large onions, and take a
stewpan, on the bottom of which lay a row of clean skewers,
on these place a layer of steaks seasoned with pepper and
salt, then a layer of sliced pptatoes and shred onions, and so
alternately till the whole is put in ; add a pint of boiling
water, and stew gently for an hour.
Alamode Beef.
TAKE either of the following pieces of beef, thick flank,
shoulder- of-mutton piece, clod, veiny piece ; and take a deep
SAUCES. 141
tin pot that will rather more than hold the beef, cover the
bottom with clean skewers, and put upon them four large
onions fried a nice brown ; put in the beef, sprinkling- it with
powdered allspice, four cloves powdered, black pepper and
salt ; add one turnip, two heads of celery and three carrots,
all cut small ; fill up the pot with one part of table beer and
two parts of water, cover it very close, and let it stew gently
ten hours.
Potatoe Salad.
THE potatoes being boiled and skinned, cut them into thin
slices, and pour over them the sauce usually eaten with com-
mon salads, adding a little essence of anchovy, or anchovy
liquor.
Soup for the Poor.
TAKE one pound of lean beef cut into small pieces, half a
pint of split pease, two ounces of rice or Scotch barley, four
potatoes pared and sliced, two onions cut in quarters, pepper
and salt to the palate: put these into a stone jar with nine pints
of water, and bake for three hours.
Or, take the skimmings of the pot in which meat of any
kind is boiled; to this add a sufficient quantity of the liquor,
together with half a pint of split pease, two onions shred small,
two leeks washed and cut, turnips, carrots, and sweet herbs ;
let the whole boil half an hour, and add four onions shred
small, and fried in dripping or fat of any kind: let them sim-
mer half an hour, and put into each jug or bowl some slices of.
cold potatoes previously fried, pouring the soup over them.
CHAPTER XIV.
SAUCES.
Beef Slock.
XIAVING cut lean beef into pieces, put it into a pot with suf-
ficient water to cover it : let it boil, and when boiling skim it
well, adding a faggot of parsley and thyme, carrots scraped,
leeks, onions, (in winter, turnips), celery, and a little salt; let
the whole stew till tender, and strain through a fine sieve
into broad shallow pans, not containing more than four quarts
each : let the fat remain on the top till vranted, as it excludes
air, and preserves the stock.
142 SAUCES.
Second Beef Stock
Is made by adding half the quantity of water put in at first,
to the beef and vegetables from which the first stock has been
drawn.
Veal Stock.
TAKE a knuckle of veal and some lean ham, free from all
rancidity ; and having cut the meat into pieces, put it into a
pot with three pints of water, carrots, (in winter turnips),
onions, leeks, and celery : stew the whole till tender, taking
care that it do not contract any degree of colour ; add a suf-
ficient quantity of second beef stock, stew for one hour lon-
ger; skim off all the fat, and strain into pans. Game added
to the above will greatly improve its flavour.
Clear Brown Stock.
TAKE three quarts of veal stock, perfectly free from fat,
adding a small quantity of browning to make it of a good
colour: season with cayenne and salt; beat up the yolks of two
eggs, and whisk them with some of the stock : let it boil
gently for a few minutes, and strain through a fine sieve.
Jelly Stock.
PUT four calves feet with four quarts of second stock into a
stewpan ; boil gently for four hours, strain through a tamis,
and when cold scrape off the fat : when used, season with
cayenne, salt, and lemon juice.
Fish Stock.
CLEAN and cut two eels, two tench, and two carp into thin
pieces ; put these into a large stewpot, together \vith any fish
bones that may be left from fillets ; add eight heads of celery,
a faggot of thyme and parsley, four blades of mace, one
dozen umvashed anchovies, one dozen onions, and a pint of
water : set on a slow stove, and draw down for two hours,
when the stewpot will be nearly dry ; but take care not to
burn : aciJ six quarts of second stock; boil gently for three
hours, and strain through a tamis. Plaice, soles, &c. will do
as well as carp and tencn.
Glaize t for Poultry, Larding, Hams, Kc.
TAKE a leg of veal, lean of ham, beef, a couple of indif-
ferent fowls, a small quantity of celery, turnips, carrots, onions,
SAUCES. 143
leeks, all cut in pieces ; a little lemon-peel, mace, and black
pepper : put all these into a large stewpot with three quarts
of second stock, and sweat them down till three parts done :
cover the whole with second stock, and boil till all the good-
ness is extracted : skim and strain into a large pan : when
cold, take off the fat very clean, set it in a stewpan over the
fire, and when warm, clear it with whites and a few yolks of
eggs ; add a little browning, and strain through a tamis :
return it into a clean stewpan, and boil quickly till reduced to
a glaze, taking care it do not burn.
Glaize of Herbs
MAY*be prepared in the same way, from each herb sepa-
rately ; in order to extract the essence of each, and to ren-
der them portable ; but the different glaizes must be pre-
served in bottles closely stopped down.
Consume, or Essence o
Is made by reducing veal stock to a thick consistence,
taking care not to burn it.
Coulis.
TAKE slices of veal and ham, add celery, (in winter, turnips),
carrots, onions, leeks, a faggot of sweet herbs, allspice, mace,
and a little shred lemon-peel : put all these into a stewpan
with a quart of second beef or veal stock, and draw them down
to a light colour, taking care not to let them burn : add a
sufficient quantity of beef stock to cover the whole, and when
boiling skim it, and thicken with butter rolled in flour or pass-
ing : let it boil three quarters of an hour ; season with cay-
enne, salt, and lemon-juice: strain through a tamis, and add
a little browning to make it of a good colour.
Browning for Sauces, Sfc.
PUT into a clean fryingpan a quarter of a pound of good
brown sugar, and half a gill of water ; set over a gentle fire,
stir with a wooden spoon till burnt of a fine brown : when it
boils, skim it well, and add half a pint of water ; strain, and
put by in a covered pot for use.
Passing of Butter.
MELT fresh butter in a stewpan over the fire; and when
melted, shake in a sufficient quantity of flour with a dredger
to make it into a paste, mix well together, and whisk over a
very slow fire for ten minutes,
144 SAUCES.
To melt Butter in the best way.
LET the cook have a plated saucepan for this purpose, into
which put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter with two tea-
spoonsrul of cream : shake the pan over a clear fire one way,
till the butter is completely melted.
Royal Sauce (broken).
TAKE half a pound of lean Westphalia ham free from all
rancidity, a chicken cut in pieces, six eschalots shred fine, a
faggot of parsley, and two or three blades of mace ; put all
into a stewpan with a little stock to draw it down, then add a
sufficient quantity of coulis ; strain through a tamis, and sea-
son with cayenne, salt, and lemon juice.
Royal Sauce (white) .
DRAW the sauce with the same materials as those in the
former receipt ; and instead of adding coulis, use bensha-
melle.
Benshamelle Sauce.
TAKE white veal, lean ham, turnips, celery, onions shred, a
blade of mace, and a little whole pepper ; sweat them down
over a very gentle heat till three parts tender, and add beef
stock : when it boils skim it clean, and thicken it with pass-
ing, adding cream enough to make it quite white, and of the
thickness of light batter: let it simmer gently half an hour, and
strain through a tamis.
Italian Sauce (brown) Sauce Italienne.
MINCE a slice of lean ham very fine, put it together with a
few chopped truffles and eschalots into a stewpan, adding a
little stock, and a glass of madeira : let it simmer a quarter of
an hour, and season with cayenne, salt, lemon juice, a dust cf
sugar, little browning, and a few drops of garlic vinegar ;
strain through a tamis.
Italian Sauce (white) Sauce Italienne.
PROCEED as above directed till the ingredients have sim-
mered a quarter of an hour : add benshamelle to make up the
requisite quantity, and let this simmer a minute : strain
through a tamis, and season with white pepper, salt, lemon
juice, a dust of sugar, and a few drops of garlic vinegar.
SAUCES; 145
German Sauce, or Sauce Allemande.
PUT a little minced ham into a stewpan, and a few trim*
tilings of poultry, dressed or undressed; four eschalots, a
small clove of garlic, a bay-leaf, two tarragon- leaves, and a
few spoonsful oi stock : let. it simmer gently for half an hour ;
strain thiough a tamis, return into a clean stewpan, and add
a sufficient quantity of coulis to make up the requisite quan-
tity, give it a boil, and season with cayenne, salt, a dust of
sugar, and a little lemon juice.
Spanish Sauce Sauce Espagnole.
SLICE four large onions, and put them into a stewpan with
a little vinegar, half a pint of sherry, two slices of ham shred
small, a htnall qlove of garlic, a truffle chopped, two eschalots
shred, a bay-leaf, three blades of mace, and half a pint of
coulis : boil all slowly for a quarter of an hour, rub through a
tamis ; season with cayenne and salt, and squeeze in a little
lemon juice,
Flemish Sauce Sauce Flammande.
BOIL a sprig of thyme, two eschalots, and a bit of lemon-
peel^a few minutes in a gill of stock; strain through a tamis j
return into a clean stewpan, adding a sufficient quantity of
coulis, season with cayenne, salt, a oust of sugar, and lemon
juice ; let it boil a minute.
Dutch Sauce Sauce Hollandoise.
HAVING sliced an onion, put it into a stewpan with a little
scraped horse-radish, two anchovies, a little elder vinegar, and
a gill of second stock : boil for ten minutes, strain through a
tamis ; return into a clean stewpan, and having made a liaison
of eggs, add it gradually to the sauce, let it get hot.
Sauce Tcurnaif*
COVER the bottom of a stewpan with clean skewers, and
lay a layer of Jean ham upon them ; cover them with a fowl
cut up, and a pound of lean veal : add a faggot of thyme and
parsley, a few onions, three blades of mace, arid a pint of veal
stock : let these stew, till the stock is nearly reduced, and fill
up again with veal stock, letting it boil an hour: strain through
a tamis, and when cold, skim off the fat, and return into a
clean stewpan with a passing, adding a few mushrooms ; let
these simmer, put in a pint more veal stock, boil for ten
minutes, and strain through a tamis.
L
146 SAUCES.
2ueen's Sauce Sauce a la Reine.
CUT up a fowl, half a pound of lean ham, six eschalots,
and three blades of mace : put all these into a stewpan, with
half a pint of stock, and let them s mmer a quarter of an
hour : add three pints of stock, boil for half an hour, and
strain through a tamis into a clean stewpan : add a passing
and half a pint of cream, boil a few minutes, and again strain
through a tamis j season with white pepper and salt.
Ravigot Sauce.
PUT into a stewpan a gill of stock, adding a small clove of
garlic, a little burnet, tarragon, eschalot chopped, mushrooms,
truffles and parsley shred fine ; let them simmer a few mi-
nutes, and add as much coulis as is requisite for the quan-
tity; rub through a tamis, season with cayenne, salt, a dust of
sugar, and lemon juice.
Poivrade Sauce.
SHRED twelve eschalots, adding to them a gill and a half
of vinegar, a spoonful of consume, half a spoonful of essence
of anchovy, cayenne and salt: boil, and serve hot if for hot
meat ; if for cold, boil, and let it get cold.
Piquant Sauce for hot Poultry or Meat.
PUT four shred eschalots into a stewpan, and season with
salt, adding half a gill of stock ; let it simmer till the stock is
consumed, taking care not to burn it : add as much coulis as
there is required of sauce, let it boil a few minutes, season
with cayenne, salt, a dust of sugar, a few drops of garlic
vinegar, and a little lemon juice.
Hash Sauce Sauce Hachis.
CUT a few mushrooms, onions, pickled cucumbers, pickled
walnuts having the black skin scraped off, and carrots, into
dice ; boil them in a little stock, till it comes to a glaze ; add
the requisite quantity of coulis, and let it boil up.
Robert Sauce.
TAKE a gill of coulis, a bay-leaf, an onion sliced, a blade of
mace, a little made mustard, and a gill of Rhenish wine : boil
all together a quarter of an hour, strain through a tamis ; re-
turn into a clean stewpan, and reduce it till half is consumed.
SAUCES. 147
Sauce Piquant for cold Meat.
BONE two anchovies, and after pounding them in a marble
mortar, add two table-spoonsful of salad oil, and a tea-spoon-
ful of made mustard ; mix well together, adding two eschalots
and a little parsley shred very fine, season with white pepper,
cayenne, salt, and vinegar to the palate.
Russian Sauce for cold Meat.
TAKE grated horse-radish, four spoonsful; made mustard,
two tea-spoonsful ; salt, one salt spoonful ; sugar, one tea-
spoonful ; vinegar, sufficient to cover the ingredients.
Sauce for a Goose.
TAKE a table-spoonful of made mustard, half a tea-spoonful
of cayenne, a salt-spoonful of salt, and three spoonsful of
port wine; mix well together, heat over a lamp, and pour quite
hot into the goose through a slit in the apron.
Hachis Sauce mellee.
TAKE the breast of a cold roasted or boiled fowl, two eggs
boiled hard, pickled cucumbers, capers, eschalots, parsley
and lean ham, all chopped small; add to them coulis, and two
spoonsful of mushroom ketchup : let them simmer half an
hour.
tipple Sauce, for Pork, Geese , fife.
PARE, quarter and core, baking apples ; and having put
them into a stewpan, add a small stick of cinnamon, a few
cloves, a bit of lemon rind, and a small quantity of water ; cut
a piece of white paper to fit the stewpan, press it down close
on the apples, put on the cover, and simmer gently till the
apples are tender : take out the peel and spices ; add a bit of
fresh butter, sugar to the palate, and beat fine with a wooden
spoon.
Gravy for Poultry, Meat, and Steaks.
CUT slices of lean beef, lean ham, and veal ; pare onions,
turnips, carrots, and celery ; cut them small, adding a faggot
of parsley and thyme, a little mace and whole pepper, and a
few spoonsful of water : having put them into a stewpan,
sweat them over a gentle fire, till the liquor is of a light brown :
add stock, and a little browning, season with salt, and let it
simmer till the meat is thoroughly done ; strain through a
tamis, and when cold, skim off the fat.
L 2
148 SAUCES.
Green Sauce, for Green Geese, Ducklings, Kc.
WASH sorrel, and having bruised it in a marble mortar ;
strain the juice through a tamis : add a little loaf sugar, the
yolk of an egg well beaten with it, and a spoonful of vinegar
to every gill of the juice; let it barely simmer, stirring with a
wooden spoon, and serve.
Or having picked green spinach, wash and bruise it in a
mortar, and strain the liquor through a tamis : to every gill of
the juice, add a little lump sugar, the yolk of an egg, and two
table-spoonsful of the pulp of gooseberries rubbed through a
sieve : let them simmer, &c. as above.
Bread Sauce, for Game, Turkeys, Kc.
SOAK grated bread in half a pint of milk or cream ; add a
small onion; set them over the fire, stirring with a wooden
spoon till all the milk is taketi up: take out the onion, add two
ounces of fresh butter, white pepper and salt to the palate ;
beat all very fine, and serve hot.
Essence of Ham for Sauces.
TAKE four pounds of raw but lean Westphalia ham ; put
it into a stewpan with a little water, six peeled eschalots, and
two bay-leaves : cover the pan closely, and simmer till three
parts done ; add two quarts of water, and boil till tender :
strain through a fine sieve^ and when cold skim off all the fat :
return it into a clean saucepan, and when warm, clear it with
whites of eggs : strain through a tamis; return it into a stew-
pan, and boil till reduced to a pint: when cold, put it into
snuali bottles, and cork them close.
Liaison or Leason, for Fricassees, Kc.
TAKE the yolks of four eggs, half a pint of cream, and a
little salt, mixed well together : simmer, and mix as directed
in the different receipts.
Lemon Sauce for Fowls, Kc.
HAVING pared two lemons, cut them into very small pieces
of the shape of dice ; and take the liver and scalded parsley
chopped fine: put them into a stewpan, adding boiling ben-
shatnelle and a little melted butter : simmer for a minute or
two.
SAUCES. 149
Marinate.
TAKE a little stock, salt, whole pepper, vinegar, onions
sliced, a clove of garlic, a few bay-leaves, and a little thyrne :
boil all together, and strain through a tamis.
Onion Sauce.
HAVING boiled the onions, take of? two coats from the out-
sides ; chop the remainder quite smooth, and add them to
fresh butter melted with a little good cream: season \rith salt
and white pepper, and simmer till quite hot.
Queen Sauce of Chicken.
To half a pint of boiling veal stock, add two ounces of
grated French bread, two ounces of Jordan almonds blanched
and pounded very fine; also the yolks of two hard-boiled
eggs, and the white meat of a fowl cut and pounded ; let these
all simmer, and rub them through a tamis : add a little cream
and season to the palate, making it quite hot when put over
the chickens, &c,
French Olive Sauce.
STONE the olives, and stew in veal stock till tender, and the
^liquor nearly reduced ; season with cayenne, salt, and lemon
juice.
Sweet Sauce for Venison, Mutton, Kc.
TAKE half a gill of coulis, two spoonsful of vinegar, a gill
of port wine, an onion boiled and rubbed through a sieve, a
little pounded cinnamon, and lump sugar to the palate Jet
the whole boil, and serve hot.
Truffle Sauce for Turkeys, Sc.
HAVING cleaned and pared green truffles, put them into a
stewpan with a pint of beef stock, and stew them gently :
when the liquor is almost reduced, add a well seasoned conlis,
and serve hot.
Sauce for Wild Ducks, Kc.
TAKE a gill of stock, the same of port wine, two eschalots
shred, a blade 'of mace, a little grated nutmeg, cayenne, and
salt : let these simmer ten minutes, and strain through a tamis.
150 SAUCES.
Stock Sauce.
TAKE a quart of white wine, the juice of two lemons, and
put them into a stone jar : take five large anchovies, some
whole Jamaica pepper, ginger sliced, mace, cloves, lemon
peel, sliced horse-radish, a faggot of sweet herbs, a few sliced
eschalots, two spoonsful of capers and a little of the liquor ;
and having tied these all loosely in a muslin bag, put into the
jar with the wine, stop it close, and set it in a kettle of hot
water for an hour, and keep in a vrarm place. In a month
this sauce will be fit for use, and a spoonful is a great improve-
ment to any other sauce.
Sauce for Roast Meat.
WASH an anchovy very clean, and put to it a glass of red
wine, a little strong stock, grated nutmeg, an eschalot chop-
ped, and Ihe juice of a Seville orange ; let these stew gently
five minutes, and strain to the gravy that runs from the meat.
Sauce for Pies.
TAKE some'veal stock, one anchovy, a bunch of sweet herbs,
and a little mushroom liquor ; boil for a few minutes, and
thicken with butter rolled in flour ; add half a glass of claret,
and pour through a funnel into the pie.
Lemon Sauce (white).
PARE a lemon, and having cut it into slices, pick out the
seeds, and chop very small ; boil the liver of a fowl, and with
a spoon rub it through a sieve ; mix these in a little veal stock,
and add a liaison (see Sauces} : season with white pepper and
salt.
Mushroom Sauce.
HAVING chopped some pickled mushrooms, add three spoons,
ful of veal stock, salt, and grated nutmeg ; let them simmer a
few minutes, and add. melted butter.
Parsley Sauce.
TAKE some parsley seed, and having bruised it, tie it in a
linen rag, and boil ten minutes in a saucepan with half a pint
of water : take out the seed, and reserve the water. Take as
much of the water as is wanted, and to it add butter and flour ;
melt together, and add a little finely chopped spinach.
SAUCES. 151
Sauce for cold Chicken, Partridge, or Veal.
Two anchovies boned, washed, and chopped ; shred pars-
ley, a small onion or eschalot chopped ; white pepper, oil,
vinegar, mustard, mushroom and walnut ketchup: mix well
together.
Quirts Fish Sauce.
HALF a pint of walnut pickle, half a pint of mushroom
pickle, six anchovies pounded, six others whole, a glass of
white wine, three blades of mace, and half a tea-spoonful of
cayenne : let it stand a fortnight or longer, and strain into
small bottles for use.
Quill's Game or Meat Sauce.
PUT two ounces of butter into a stewpan, with two onions,
two eschalots, and a clove of garlic sliced ; the outward parts
of a caiTot and parsnip, a bay-leaf, thyme, basil, and two
cloves : shake ovef the fire till it begins to colour, and add a
dust of flour, a glass of port, half a pint of strong stock, and
a spoonful of vinegar : boil half an hour ; skim off the fat,
strain through a tamis, and season with cayenne and salt : boil
again, and strain over the meat.
Egg Sauce.
SHRED hard-boiled eggs very fine, and add them to butter
melted in a little good cream.
Sauce for Fish Pies (with cream}.
HAVING chopped an anchovy very small, dissolve it in hajf
a gill of veal stock ; to these add a gill of good cream, and a
little passing ; let them simmer till quite hot, and pour in
through a funnel.
Keeping Fish Sauce.
TAKE a gill of mountain wine, a pint of port, half a pint
of walnut ketchup, a gill of walnut pickle, twelve anchovies
and their liquor, the rind and juice of a fine lemon, six
eschalots shred small, three ounces of grated horse-radish,
two tea-spoonsful of made mustard, three blades of mace,
three cloves, cayenne and salt : let these all boil till half con-
sumed ; strain through a tamis, and when cold, put in small
bottles corked and sealed.
159 SAUCES.
Sauce for Fish Pies (without cream}.
TAKE equal quantities of Lisbon wine, vinegar, oyster liquor,
and mushroom ketchup ; with these, boil a chopped anchovy
till dissolved : strain through a tamis, and pour into the pie.
Essence of Anchovies.
TAKE one pound of anchovies ; put them into a stewpan
with two quarts of water, two bay-leaves, a little whole pep-
per, scraped horse-radish, a sprig of thyme, two blades of
mace, six eschalots shred small, a gill of port wine, a gill of
mushroom ketchup, and half the rind of a lemon : boil for half
an hour, strain through a tamis, and when cold, put the essence
into small bottles, corking them well, and keeping them in a
dry place.
Fennel Sauce.
TAKE green fennel, mint, and parsley, a little of each; wash
them clean, and having boiled them tender, chop all fine j
add them to butter melted with a little cream, and when quite
hot, add two spoonsful of green gooseberries scalded and
pulped through a sieve: serve immediately, as the herbs lose
their colour by standing in the butter,
Lobster Sauce.
TAKE the meat and spawn of a large lobster, and having
cut it into small pieces, pound it in a marble mortar, and rub
through a tamis cloth : melt a pound of fresh butter with
half a pint of good cream, in this put the pulp, and thicken
with a passing: when it simmers, season with essence of an-
chovy, lemon juice, cayenne and salt.
Crab Sauce
MAY be prepared as above directed for lobsters ; the inside
being pounded with the meat.
Oyster Sauce, for Fish.
HAVING blanched the oysters, strain, and preserve their
liquor: wash, drain, and beard them; putting them into a
stewpan with fresh butter, and their liquor (free from any
sediment) : let them warm, when add a passing ; let these
simmer, stirring one way with a wooden spoon, and season
with cayenne, salt, essence of anchovy, a little lemon juice |
apd a spoonful of mushroom ketchup.
SAUCES, 153
Oyster Sauce (white), for Fish.
BLANCH large oysters till half done, strain and preserve the
liquor : beard, wash, and drain the oysters ; and put their
liquor free from sediment into a stevvpan with two ounces of
fresh butter, half a pint of good cream, a bit of lemon peel,
and a blade of mace; set it on the fire, and when nearly
boiling, mix a passing to thicken it: season with cayenne,
salt, and lemon juice, and strain through a hair sieve upon
the oysters previously put into another stewpan : let them
simmer gently five minutes.
Oyster Sauce, for Steaks.
BLAXCH a pint of .oysters, and having preserved their
liquor ; wash, beard, and drain them, putting their liquor (free
from sediment, into a stewpan with a spoonful of soy, and
ketchup : to these add a gill of coulis, a bit of horse-radish,
and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter : when near boiling
thicken with a passing, season with cayenne, salt, and lemon
juice: strain through a sieve to the oysters, and stew gently
five minutes.
Shrimp Sauce.
HAVING picked, washed, and drained the shrimps, put
their shells into a stewpan, with a gill of water and a blade of
mace : let them simmer till all the flavour is extracted from
them ; and strain the liquor through a sieve into another stevv-
pan containing fresh butter, anchovy essence, lemon juice,
cayenne, and salt : shake in a sufficient quantity of flour to
thicken, bring it to boil, and skim it: put in the shrimps,
and let them simmer five minutes.
Anchony Sauce.
HAVING put half a pound of fresh butter into a stewpan,
with three spoonsful of essence of anchovy, of mushroom and
walnut ketchup, each a spoonful ; soy, a tea-spoonful ; juice
of half a lemon, cayenne, and passing, to thicken ; boil toge-
ther, and skim clean.
Celery Sauce (brown).
HAVING cut celery heads three inches long, blanch them,
and drain off the water ; adding a sufficient quantity of stock
to boil them in till tender: when the liquor is nearly reduced,
coulis well seasoned, and simmer till hot.
154 SAUCES.
Celery Sauce (white J.
PROCEED as above till the celery is tender ; and add ben-
sham el le.
Carrot Sauce.
HAVING cut the red part of a large carrot into small dice,
boil in stock till it comes to a glaze ; then add couiis.
Chervil Sauce.
PICK a large handful of chervil leaves, and having put
them into a stewpan with stock ; stew till the stock is almost
reduced : add couiis sufficient for the quantity, a little ma-
deira, lemon juice, and a dust of sugar.
Cucumber Sauce.
HAVING pared the cucumbers, cut them into quarters, cut-
ting out all the seeds, and dividing each quarter into four
pieces : take as many small onions as pieces of cucumbers,
and put them together with the cucumber into vinegar, salt,
and water, for two hours : drain them, and put into astewpan
with as much stock as will cover them, boiling them down to
a glaze; add couiis sufficient to make the quantity of sauce.
Eschalot Sauce.
HAVING shred six eschalots, put them into a stewpan with a
little stock, letting them simmer till tender; add a little couiis,
and season with lemon juice, and a dust of sugar.
Puree of Potatoes.
HAVING pared some mealy potatoes, boil them in stock, and
rub them through a tamis, adding some tournay, and a little
salt.
Tarragon Sauce
Is made in the same manner as chervil sauce.
Turnip Sauce.
HAVING pared four turnips, sweat them with a little water
till they are done; rub them through a tamis, and add a small
quantity of benshamelle.
Sorrel Sauce.
HAVING chopped four large handfuls of picked sorrel, put
it into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, a slice of
SAUCES. 155
ham, and two onions shred: let these gently simmer in the
juice of the sorrel for tefl minutes ; add a gill of stock, and
simmer half an hour longer : rub all through a tamis, add a
little coulis to it, and season with cayenne, salt, and lemon
juice.
Haricot Roots.
HAVING scooped an equal quantity of turnips and carrots,,
peel as many button onions : put on the carrots to boil in
stock, a quarter of an hour before the onions and turnips, and
having boiled them to a glaze, add a sufficient quantity of
coulis, for the sauce required.
Salad Sauce.
TAKE the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, a dessert spoonful
of Parmesan cheese, a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a des-
sert spoonful of tarrogan vinegar, and a spoonful of ketchup :
when well mixed together, add four spoonsful of salad oil,
and having made it unite with the former ingredients, add one
spoonful of elder vinegar.
Or, take the yolks of two raw eggs, add a salt-spoonful of
powdered lump sugar, mix together, and add by degrees four^
spoonsful of salad oil, mixing it very well the whole time : to
these put best vinegar and salt, to the palate.
Brown Braise.
CUT some beef suet, and trimmings of any kind of meat, and
put them into a stewpan with four onions, a faggot of thyme,
parsley, basil, and marjoram ; two blades of mace, a carrot
cut in slices, six heads of celery, a few bay-leave*, a bit of
butter, and a little stock : set it over the fire, and draw down
for half an haur, fill it up with second stock, and add a little
white wine to it.
White Braise.
TAKE part of the udder of veal, and having put it into
cold water, make it boil ; take it out, put it into cold water
for a few minutes, take it out and cut into small pieces, put-
ting them into a stewpan with a bit of butter, onions, a fag-
got of thyme and parsley, a pared lemon cut in thin slices, a
few blades of mace, and a spoonful of water : set over a very
gentle fire, stirring for a few minutes ; then add a little white
stock.
Forcemeat hot, or Farce.
TAKE veal free from sinews and gristle, cut it into small
pieces-, as much fat of ham, or bacon ; half as much marrow,
156 SAUCES.
or beef suet; put these into a stewpan with a little bit of
butter in the bottom, season with parsley, thyme, mushrooms,
truffles, and eschalots all very finely shred, cayenne, white
pepper, and salt ; put it over the fire, add a little grated nut-
meg, and stir with a wooden spoon till the juice of the meat
begins to draw; let it simmer very gently for ten minutes;
put it to cool, and when cold, beat the whole in a marble mor-
tar till very fine.
Cold Forcemeat, for Sails, Kg.
TAKE the same ingredients as above directed, and having
well beaten them in a mortar, add yolk of egg and grated
bread, sufficient to make into balls.
Turtle Herbs, to preserve.
TAKE basil, pot marjoram, orange thyme, lemon thyme,
common thyme, parsley four times the quantity of the other
herbs ; let them dry gradually in a warm dry place, and rub
them through a hair sieve, preserving them in a wide-mouthed
bottle, closely corked.
Mushroom Powder.
DRY the mushrooms whole, set them before the fire to
crisp ; grind, and sift the powder through a fine sieve, pre-
serving it in small bottles, closely corked.
Mushroom Ketchup.
TAKE mushrooms, and having cut off part of the stalk to-
wards the root, wash them clean, drain, and then bruise them
a little in a marble mortar ; and having put them into an
earthen pan, cover them with a moderate quantity of salt,
letting them remain for four days : strain through a tamis
cloth, and pour off the clear liquor into a stewpan ; to every
pint of juice add half a gill of port wine, a little whole alf-
spice, cloves, mace, pepper, and cayenne : boil for twenty
minutes, then skim and strain the ketchup, and when cold,
put it into small bottles, closely corked.
Curry Powder.
TAKE mustard seed, scorched and finely powdered, one
ounce and a half; coriander seed in powder, four ounces ;
turmeric in powder, four ounces and a half; black pepper in
powder, three ounces ; lesser cardamoms in powder, one
ounce ; ginger in powder, half an ounce ; cinnamon in po\v-
SAUCES. 157
der, one ounce ; cloves in powder, half an ounce ; mace in
powder, half an ounce ; mix all the powdered ingredients
well together, and keep in a wide-mouthed bottle, closely
stopped.
Camp Vinegar.
CHOP a large head of garlic fine, and put into a wide-
mouthed bottle, with half an ounce of cayenne, a spoonful of
soy, two spoonsful of walnut ketchup, four anchovies chopped,
a pint of vinegar, and a sufficient quantity of cochineal to give
it a good colour; let it stand six weeks, strain through a'tamis,
and keep in smati bottles, closely corked.
Kitchen Pepper.
TAKE ginger, one ounce; cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce;
black pepper, Jamaica pepper, and nutmeg, half an dunce
of each ; ten cloves, and six ounces of salt, all finely pow-
dered : keep in a wide-mouthed bottle, closely stopped.
Spices
SHOULD each be finely powdered, and kept in separate
bottles, with glass stoppers.
Walnut Ketchup.
HAVING put any quantity of walnuts into jars, cover them
with cold best vinegar, and tie them close for twelve months:
take out the walnuts from the vinegar, and to every gallon of
the liquor put two heads of garlic, half a pound of anchovies,
a quart of red wine, and of mace, cloves, long, black, and
Jamaica pepper, and ginger, an ounce each : boil them all to-
gether till the liquor is reduced to half the quantity, and the
next day bottle it for use.
Or, take green walnuts before the shell is formed, and grind
them in a crab-mill, or pqund them in a marble mortar.
Squeeze out the juice through a coarse 'cloth, and put to every
gallon of juice a pound of anchovies, the same quantity of
bay-salt, four ounces of Jamaica pepper, two of long, and two
of black pepper ; of mace, cloves, and ginger, each a quarter
of an ounce, and a stick of horse-radish. Boil all together till
reduced to half the quantity, and put it into a pot. When cold,
bottle it, and in three months it will be fit for use.
Lemon Pickle.
GRATE off very thin the out-rinds of two dozen of lemons,
and cut the lemons into four quarters, but leave the bottoms
158 .-i.U'CES.
whole. Rub on them equally half a pound of bay-salt, and
spread them on a large earthen dish. Put them into a cool
oven, or let them dry gradually by the fire, till all the juice
is dried into the peels. Then put them into a well-glazed jar,
with half an ounce of mace, a quarter of an ounce of cloves
beat fine, an ounce of nutmegs cut into thin slices, four
ounces of peeled garlic, and half a pint of mustard seed a little
bruised, and tied in a muslin rag. Pour over them two quarts
of boiling white wine vinegar, and close the pitcher up well.
Let it stand by the fire five or six days, shake it up well every
day, then tie it up, and let it stand three months, by which
time it will lose its bitter taste : strain through a hair sieve,
press them well to get out the liquor, and let it stand another
day. Then pour off the fine, and bottle it ; let the other
stand three or four days, and it will fine itself. Then pour off
the fine, and bottle it ; and let it stand again to fine, and thus
proceed till the whole is bottled.
Garlic Vinegar.
TAKE four large heads of garlic, two drams of mace, four
cloves, and a quart of vinegar, boil for half an hour, and stop
close in ajar for a month : strain into small bottles.
Eschalot Vinegar.
TAKE half a pound of eschalots peeled, and proceed as di-
rected for garlic.
Mustard.
TAKE four onions, eight eschalots, two cloves of garlic, two
ounces of grated horse-radish, and a spoonful of salt ; boil in
a pint of water for half an hour : strain } and when rather more
than milk-warm, mix gradually with half a pound of best flour
of mustard.
Tomata Sauce (Love Apple).
TAKE tomatas when ripe, and having baked them till soft,
scoop them out with a tea-spoon, and pulp them through a
sieve: to the pulp add as much Chili vinegar as \\ill bring it
to a proper thickness, with salt to the taste: to each quart, add
garlic half an ounce, and eschalot one ounce, both sliced very
thin ; boil for a quarter of an hour, skimming the mixture
well. Strain, and when quite cold, put into bottles, letting
them stand a few days before they are corked.
Mock Tomata Sauce
Is made by substituting sharp-tasted apples for tomatas, and
after baking them, colouring the pulp with turmeric, so as to
resemble tomatas.
SOUPS. 159
Oyster Ketchup (brown).
HAVING opened the oysters, save the liquor, and'scald them
in it ; let it settle, and strain through a tarnis; add to it
browning sufficient to colour, two cloves, two blades of mace,
a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, a little salt, cayenne,
a clove of garlic sliced, a spoonful of essence of anchovy, and
a glass of port wine : boil all together for ten minutes, strain,
and when cold, put into small bottles well corked.
Oyster Ketchup (white) .
TAKE the scalded liquor as above, add a glass, of sherry,
lemon juice and peel, white pepper, mace, and nutmeg:
boil together as above.
Cockle Ketchup (white and brown).
TREAT in the same way as oysters.
CHAPTER XV.
SOUPS AND BROTHS.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
I AKE great care that your pots? saucepans, and covers, are
very clean, and free from all sand and grease, and that they
are properly tinned ; since, if this be not cautiously attended
to, your soups and broths will not only acquire a bad taste,
but become pernicious to the health and constitutions of
many. When you make any kind of soup, particularly ver-
micelli, portable or brown gravy soups, or any other soups
that have herbs or roots in them, be sure to remember to lay
your meat at the bottom of the pan, with a large piece of
butter. Then cut the roots and herbs small, and having laid
them over your meat, cover your pot or saucepan very close,
and keep under it a slow fire, which will draw all the virtues
out of the vegetables, turn them to a good gravy, and give
the soup a very different flavour from what it would have by
a contrary conduct. When your gravy is almost dried up,
replenish it with water ; and when it begins to boil, take off
the fat, and follow the directions given you for the particular
kind of soup or broth you are making. Soft water will suit
1GO SOUPS.
your purpose best in making old peas soup; but when you
make soup of green peas, you must make use of hard water,
as it will the better preserve the colour of your peas. In the
preparation of white soup, remember never to put in your
cream till you take your soup off the fire, and the last thing
you do, must be the dishing of your soups. Gravy soup will
have a skin over it by standing; and from the same eause peas
soup will often settle, and look thin at the top. Lastly, let
the ingredients of your soups and broths be so properly pro-
portioned, that they may not taste of one thing more than
another, but that the taste be equal, and the whole of a fine
and agreeable relish.
Soup a la Reine.
PUT three quarts of water to a knuckle' of veal and three
or four pounds of beef, with a little salt, and when it boils,
skim it well. Then put in a leek, a little thyme, some par-
sley, a head pr two of celery, a parsnip^ two large carrots,
and six large onions, and boil all together till the goodness is
quite out of the meat : strain through a hair sieve, and let it
stand about an hour: skim it well, and clear it off gently from
the settlings into a clean pan : boil half a pint of cream, pour
it on the crumb of a halfpenny loaf, and let it soak well.
Take half a pound of almonds, blanch arid beat them as fine
as possible, putting in now and then a little cream to prevent
their oiling: then take the yolks of six hard eggs, and the
roll that was soaked in the cream, and beat them all together
quite fine : make your broth hot, and pour it to your almonds,
strain it through a tamis, rubbing it with a spoon till all the
goodness is gone quite through into a stewpan : add more
cream to make it white, and set it over the fire. Keep
stirring it till it boils, skim off the froth as it rises, and soak
the tops of French rolls in melted butter In a stewpan till they
are crisp, but not brown : take them out, and lay them on a
plate before the fire ; and, about a quarter of an hour before
you send it to table, take a little of the hot soup, and put it
to the rolls in the bottom of the tureen. Put your soup on
the fire, keep stirring it till it nearly boils, and then pour it
into your tureen, and serve it up hot. Be careful to take otf
all the fat of the broth before you pour it to the almonds, or
they will curdle and spoil it.
Soup and Bauillie.
To make the bouillie, roll five pounds of brisket cf beef
tight with a tape ; put it into a stewpot, with four pounds of
the leg of mutton piece of beef, and about seven or eight
SOUPS. 161
quarts of water. Boil these up as quick as possible, and skim
it very clean ; add one large onion, six or seven cloves, some
whole pepper, two or three carrots, or a turnip or two, a leek
and two heads of celery. Stew these very gently, closely
covered, for six or seven hours. About an hour before din-
ner, strain the soup through a tamis cloth. Have ready boiled
carrots cut like wheels, turnips cut in balls, spinach, a little
chervil and sorrel, two heads of endive, and one or two of
celery cut into pieces. Put these into a tureen, with a Dutch
loaf or a French roll dried, after the crumb is taken out.
Pour the soup to these boiling hot, and add a little salt and
cayenne. Take the tape from the boullie, and serve it in a
separate dish.
Mutton Broth.
CUT a neck of mutton of about six pounds into two, and
boil the scrag in about a gallon of water. Skim it well, and
put in a little bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, and a good
crust of bread. Having boiled this an hour, put in the other
part of the mutton, a turnip or two, a few chives chopped
fine, and a little parsley chopped small. Put these in about
a quarter of an hour before your broth is enough, and season
with salt. A quarter of a pound of barley or rice may be
added.
Portable Soup.
THIS is a very useful soup for travellers, and must be made
thus: cut into small pieces three large legs of veal, one of
beef, and the lean part of half a ham. Put a quarter of a
pound of butter at the bottom of a large stewpot, and lay in
the meat and bones, with four ounces of anchovie^ and two
ounces of mace ; cut off the green leaves of five or six heads
of celery, wash them quite clean, and cut them small. Put
in these, with three large carrots cut thin, and cover the
stewpot close. Put it over a moderate fire, and when you
find the gravy begin to draw, take it up till you have got it
all out: cover the meat with water, set it on the fire again,
and let it boil four hours slowly : strain through a tamis into
a clean stewpan, and let it boil three parts away : strain the
gravy drawn from the meat into the pan, and let it boil gently
till of the consistence of glue, observing to keep skimming
off the fat clean as it rises. Great care must be taken, when
nearly enough, that it do not burn. Season it to your taste
with cayenne, and pour it into flat earthen dishes a quarter
of an inch thick. Let it stand till the next day, skim off all
the fat, and then cut it out by round tins a little larger than
M
162 SOUPS.
a crown piece. Lay the cakes in dishes, and set them in the
sun to dry, and be careful to keep turning them often. When
the cakes are dry, put them in a tin hox, with writing-paper
between every cake, and keep them in a dry place. This
soup should be made in frosty weather. By pouring a pint of
boiling water on one cake, and a little salt, it will make a good
bason'of broth ; and a little boiling water poured on it will
make gravy for a turkey or fowls. It possesses one valuable
quality, that of losing none of its virtues by keeping.
Gravy Soup.
TAKE a shin of beef, and put it into six quarts of water,
with a pint of peas, and six onions Set it over the fire, and
let it boil gently till all the juice is out of the meat: strain
through a sieve ; when cold, skim off the fat, and return into
a stewpan to reduce to half the quantity. Season to your
taste with pepper and salt, and put in a little celery and beet
leaves, arid boil till tender.
White Soup.
PUT a knuckle of veal into six quarts of water, with a large
fowl, a pound of lean bacon, half a pound of rice, two an-
chovies, a few pepper-corns, a bundle of sweet herbs, two
or three onions, and three or four heads of celery cut in slices.
Stew ail together, till the soup is as strong as you would have
it, and then strain it through a hair sieve into a clean earthen
pot: let it stand all night, skim oil the fat, and pour it into
a stewpan. Put in half a pound of Jordan almonds beat fine,
simmer a little, and run it. through a tamis: add a pint of
cream and the yolk of an egg, and send it up hot.
Soup Maigre.
MELT half a pound of butter in a stewpan, and shake it
well ; when it is done hissing, throw in six middling-sized
onions, and shake the pan well for five minutes: put in four
or five neads of celery cut small, a handful or t\vo of spinach,
a cabbage-lettuce, and a bunch cf parsley, all cut fine ; shake
these well in the pan for a quarter of an hour, stir in some
fioiir. and pour into it two quarts of boiling water, with some
stale crusts of bread, some beaten pepper, and three or four
blades of mace beat fine : stir all together, and let it boil
sentry for half an hour. Then take it off, beat the yolks of
two eggs, and stir them in : add a spoonful of vinegar, and
pour it into the tureen.
Or take a quart of green moratto peas, three quarts of
soft water, four onions sliced; floured and fried in fresh but-
SOUPS. 163
ter, the coarse stalks of celery, a carrot, a turnip, and a
parsnip, and season the whole with pepper and mace to your
taste. Stew all these verv gently together, till the pulp will
force through a sieve. Have ready a handful of beet-leaves
and root, some celerv and spinach, which must be first
blanched and stewed tender in the strained liquor. Have
ready the third part of a pint of spinach juice, which must
be stirred in \\ ith caution when the soup is ready to be served
up, and not be suffered to boil after it is put in, as that will
curdle u: add a crust of bread, some tops of asparagus, and
artichoke bottoms.
Scotch Barley Broth.
CHOP a leg of beef into pieces, and boil it in three gallons
of water, with a piece of carrot and a 'crust of bread, till it
is half boiled away : then strain it off, and put it again into
the po-, with half a pound of barley, four or five heads of
celery cut small and washed clean, a bundle of sweet herbs, a
large onion, a ml a little parsley chopped fine. Let this boil
an hour, and take a large fowl clean picked and washed, and
put it into the pot: boil it till the broth is quite good, theii
season it with salt to your taste. Take out the onion and
sweet herbs, and send it to table with the fowl in the middle:
or you may omit the fowl, as it will be very good without it.
This broth is sometimes made with a sheep's head instead
of a leg of beef, and is very good; but in this case you must
chop the head all to pieces. Six pounds of the thick flank, in
six quarts of water, make good broth. Put in the barley
with the meat, first skim it well, and boil it an hour very
softly. Then put in the above ingredients, with turnips and
carrots clean scraped and pared, and cut in little pieces. Boil
all together softly till the broth is very good : then season with
salt, and send it to table with the beef in the middle, turnips
and carrots round, and pour the broth over all.
Soup au Bourgeois.
TAKE twelve heads of endive, and four or five bunches of
celery; wash them very clean, cut then into small bits, let
them be well drained from the water, pnt them into a. large
pan, and pour upon them a gallon of boiling water: set ort
three quarts of beef stock in a large saucepan ; strain the herbs
from the water very dry: when the gravy boils, put them in.
Cut off the crusts of two French rolls, break them and put
into the rest. When the herbs are tender, the soup is
enough. A boiled fowl may be put into the middle, but it is
SOUPS.
very good without. If a white soup is, liked better, it must
be veal stock, with the addition of a pint of cream.
Soup Lorraine.
TAKE a pound of almonds and blanch them, and beat them
in a mortar, with a very little water to keep them from oiling;
put to them all the white part of a large roasted fowl, and
the yolks of four poached eggs: pound all together as fine as
possible, and take three (marts of strong veal stock, and pour
it into a stewpun, with the other ingredients, and mix them
well together: boil softly over a stove or clear fire, and
mince the white part of another fowl very fine. Season it
with pepper, suit, nutmeg, and a little beaten mace. Put in
a bit of butter of the size of an eg^, and a spoonful or two
of the soup strained, ami set it over the stove to be quite
hot. Cut two French rolls into thin slices, and set them be-
fore the fire to crisp. Then take one of the hollow rolls which
are made for oyster loaves, and fill it with the mince; lay on
the top as close as possible, and keep it hot. Strain the soup
through a tamis into a clean saucepan, and let it stew till of
the thickness of cream. Put the crisped bread in the dish or
tureen, pour the soup over it, and place in the middle of it
the roll with the mincemeat.
Chesnut Soup.
PICK half a hundred of chesnuts, put them in an earthen
pan, and set them in the oven for half an hour, or roast them
gently over a slow fire, but take care they do not burn. Then
peel them, and set them to stew in a quart of good beef stock
till quite tender. In the meantime, take a piece or slice of
ham or bacon, a pound of veal, a pigeon beat to pieces, an
onion, a bundle of sweet herbs, a piece of carrot, and a
little pepper and mace. Lay the bacon at the bottom of a
stewpan, and lay the meat and ingredients on it. Set it over
a slow fire till it begins to stick to the pan, and then put in a
crust of bread, -and pour in two quarts of stock: let it boil
softly till one third is wasted, then strain it off, and put in the
chesnnts. Season with suit, and let it boil till it be well fla-
voured: then stew two pigeons in it, and a F'rench roll fried
erisp. Lay the roll in the middle of the dish, and the pigeons
on each side ; pour in the soup, and send it up hot.
Partridge Soup.
TAKE two old partridges and skin them, cut them into
small pieces, with three slices of ham, some celery, and tw*
SOUPS. 165
or three onions sliced : fry them in butler till they are per-
fectly brown, but take care not to burn them. Then put
them into three quarts or' second stock, with u few pepper-
corns, and boil it slowly till about a pint or little more of it
is consumed. Then strain it, put in it some stewed celery and
fried bread, and serve it up hot.
Vermicelli Soup.
PUT four ounces of butter into a stewpan, cut in a knuckle
of veal and a scrag of mutton into small pieces, about the size
of a walnut. Slice in the meat of a shank of ham, with two
or three carrots, two parsnips, two large onions, with a clove
stuck in at each end, three or four blades of mace, four or
five heads of celery washed clean, a bunch of sweet herbs,
eight or ten morels, and an anchovy : cover the pan close,
and set it over a slow fire, without any water, till the gravy
is drawn out of the meat. Then pour out the gravy into a
bason, and let the meat brown in the same pan, but take care
not to let it burn. Then 'pour in four quarts of second stock,
and let it boil gently till it is wasted to three pints. Then
strain it, skim off' the fat, and put the other gravy to it : set
it on the fire, and add to it two ounces of vermicelli. Then
cut the nicest part of a head of celery, seasoned to your
taste with salt and cayenne, and let it boil four minutes. If
it is not of a good colour, put in a little browning, lay a French
roll in the soup dish, pour the soup in upon it, and lay some,
of the vermicelli at top.
Soup Cressu.
CUT a pound of lean ham into small bits, and put them at
the bottom of a stewpan. Then cut a French roll, and put
over the ham. Take two dozen heads of celery cut small, six
onions, two turnips, one carrot, cut and washed very clean,
six cloves, four blades of mace, and two handfuls of water-
cresses. Put them all into the stewpan, with a pint of stock.
Cover close, and sweat them gently for twenty minutes : fill
it up with veal stock, and stew four hours: rub through a
tamis cloth, and put it into your pan again ; season with salt
and cayenne : give it a simmer up, and send it to table hot,
with some French roll toasted hard in it. Boil a handful of
cresses till tender, in water, and nut in over the bread.
Hare Soup.
CUT a large old hare into small pieces, and put it in a jug,
with three blades of mace, a little salt, two large onions, two
166 SOUPS.
Anchovies, six morels, half a pint of red wine, and three
quarts of water. Bake it three hours in a quick oven, and
then strain it into a stewpan. have ready boiled three
ounces of French barley, or .^ago, in water : then put the
liver of tbe. Hare two minutes in scalding water, and rub it
through a hair sieve with the back of a v/obden spoon. Put
it into the soup with the barley or sago, and a quarter of a
pound of butter. Set over the fire, and keep stirring it, but
do not let it boil. If the liver is disliked, add crisped bread
steeped in red wine.
Gibht Soup.
To four.pounds of gravy beef, put two pounds of scrag of
mutton, and two pounds of scrag of veaL Put to this meat
two gallons of water, and let it stew very softly till it is a
strong broth. Let it stand till cold, and skim off the fat.
Take two pair of giblets, well scalded and cleaned, put them
into the broth, .and let them simmer tilLthey are very tender.
Take out the giblets, and strain the soup through a tarnis :
put apiece of butter rolled in flour into a stewpan, and make
it of a light brown. Have ready chopped small some parsley,
chives, a little basil, and a little sweet marjoram. Put the
soup over a very slow fire; put in the giblets, fried butter,
herbs, a little Madeira wine, some salt, and cayenne: let
them simmer till the herbs are tender, and send the soup to
table with t ,e giblets in it,
Almond Soi/p.
CHOP into small pieces a neck of veal, and the scrag end
of a neck of mutton, and put them into a large stewpan.
Cut in a turnip, with a blade or two of mace, and five quarts
of water: set it over the fire, and let it boil gently till reduced
to two quarts: strain through a hair sieve into a clean stew-
pan, and add six ounces of almonds blanched and beat fine,
half a pint of thick cream, and season to your taste with
cayenne. Have ready three small French rolls made for the
purpose, of the size of a small tea-cup; if too large, they
will suck up too much of the soup, and will not look well:
blanch a few Jordan almonds, cut them lengthways, and stick
them round the edges and the top of the rolls, and put them
in the tureen : serve with the soup poured upon the rolls.
Maccaroni Soup.
TAKE four quarts of stock : take half a pound of small pipe-
maccaroni, and boil in three quarts of water, with a little butter
SOUPS. 167
in it, till tender ; strain the water from it, and cut it in pieces
of about two inches long. Put it into the soup, and boil it
up for ten minutes: add the crust of a French roll baked in
the tureen, and pour the soup to it.
Cow-Heel Soup.
TAKE six pounds of mutton, five pounds of beef, and four
of veal, the coarsest piece will do : cut them crossways, and
put them into a pot, with an old fowl beaten to pieces, and
the knuckle part of a ham; let these stew without any liquor
over a very slow fire, but take care it does not burn to the
pot : when it begins to stick to the bottom, stir it;about, and
then put in some good beef stock that has been well skimmed
from the fat ; then add some turnips, carrots, and celery cut
small, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a bay-leaf, and let it stew
about an hour. While this is doing, take a cow-heel, split it,
and set it on to boil in stock, and when very tender, take it off,
and set on a stewpan with some crusts of bre;id, and some
more stock, and let them soak for eight or ten minutes.
When the soup is stewed enough, Jay the crusts in a tureen t
And then two halves of the cow-heel upon them ; and pour on
the soup.
Ox-Cheek Soup.
BREAK the bones of an ox-cheek, and wash them perfectly
clean ; lay them in warm water, and throw in a little salt,
which will take out the slime: take a large stewpan, and put
two ounces of butter at the bottom of it, and lay the fleshy side
of the cheek-bone in it. Add to it half a pound of a shank
of ham cut in slices, and four heads of celery, with the leaves
pulled off, and the heads washed clean ; cut them into the
soup, with three large onions, two carrots, a parsnip sliced,
a few beets cut small, and three blades of mace. Set it over
a moderate fire for a quarter of an hour, which will draw the vir-
tue from the roots, and give to the gravy an agreeable strength.
When the head has simmered a quarter of an hour, put to it six
quarts of second stock, and let it stew till reduced to two quarts.
If intended to be eaten as soup, strain and take out the meat
and the other ingredients, and put in the white part of a head
of celery cut in small pieces, with a little browning to make it
of a fine colour. Take two ounces of vermicelli, give it a scald
in the soup, anr! put it into the tureen, with the top of a
French roll in the middle of it. If to be eaten like a stew,
take up the face as whole as possible, and have ready boiled
turnip or carrot, cut in square pieces, and a slice of bread
toasted and cut in small slices : add a little cayenne pepper,
168 SOUPS.
and strain the soup through a tamis upon the msat, bread,
turnip, and carrot.
' Green Peas Soup,
TAKE a peck of green peas, shell and boil them in spring
water till soft, and then work them through a hair sieve.
Take the water the peas were boiled in, and put into it three
slices of ham, a knuckle of veal, a few beet-leaves shred
small, a turnip, two carrots, and add a little more water to
the meat: set it over the fire, and let it boil an hour and a
half; then strain the gravy into a bowl, and mix it with the
pulp : then add a little juice of spinach, which must be beat
and squeezed through a tamis cloth, and put in as much as
will make it look of a pretty colour : give it a gentle boil, to
take off the taste of the spinach, and slice in the whitest
part of a head of celery: add a lump of sugar, a slice of
bread, cut it into little square pieces, and a little bacon cut
in the same manner, and all fried of a light brown in fresh
butter. Cut a large cabbage-lettuce in slices, fry it after the
other, and put it into the tureen, with the fried bread and
bacon. Have ready boiled, as for eating, a pint of young
peas, put them into the soup, and pour all into the tureen.
If approved of, a little chopped mint may be added.
Green Peas Soup without Meat.
As the peas are shelled, separate the young from the old ;
boil the old ones soft enough to pulp through a sieve, and
mix together the liquor, the pulp, and the young peas whole.
Add some whole pepper, two or three blades of mace, and
some cloves: when the young peas are nearly done, take
some spinach, a little mint, a little green onion not shred too
small, and a little faggot of thyme and sweet marjoram ;
put these into a saucepan with near a pound of butter, and
as they boil shake in some flour to boil with it, to the quan-
tity of a dredging box full : put a roll of French bread into
the liquor to boil ; mix the liquor and herbs together, and
season with salt to the taste.
White Peas Soup.
PUT four or five pounds of lean beef into six quarts of wa-
ter, with a little salt, and a* soon as it boils take off the scum.
Put in three quarts of old green peas, two heads of celery, a
little thyme, three onions, and two carrots. Boil them till
the' meat is quite tender,, then strain it through a hair sieve,
and rub the pulp of the peas through the sieve. Split the
blanched part of three cos-lettuces into four quarters,
SOUPS 169
and cut them about an inch long, with a little mint cut
small. Then put half a pound of butter in a stevvpan large
enough to hold your soup, and put the lettuce and mint into
the butter, with a leek sliced very thin, and a pint of green
peas ; stew them a quarter of an hour, and shake them fre-
quently : then add a little of the soup, and stew them a quar-
ter of an hour longer : put in the soup, as much thick cream
as will make it white, and keep stirring it till it boils. Fry a
French roll a little crisp in butter, put it at the bottom of thr
tureen, and pour the soup over it.
Common Peas Soup.
PUT four quarts of soft water to one quart of split peas,
with a little bacon, or roast-beef bones ; wash a head of celery,
cut it, and put it in, with a turnip. Boil till reduced to two
quarts, and then work it through a hair sieve with a wooden
spoon. Mix a little flour and water, and boil it well in the
soup. Slice in another head of celery, and season it to your
taste with salt and cayenne. Cut a slice of bread into small
dice, and fry them of a light brown. Put them into your
tureen, and pour the soup over them.
Peas Soup for Winter.
CUT into small pieces about four pounds of lean beef, and
about a pound of lean bacon, or pickled pork. Put them into
two gallons of water, and skim it well when it boils. Then
add six onions, a carrot, two turnips, four heads of celery
cut small, twelve corns of allspice, and a quart of split peas.
Let them boil gently for three hours, strain them through a
sieve, and rub the peas through the sieve : put the soup irato
a clean pot, and add some dried mint rubbed to a fine pow-
der. Cut off the white of four heads of celery, and cut two
turnips into the shape of dice, and boil them in a quart of wa-
ter for a quarter of an hour; strain them off, and put them
into your soup. Take about a dozen small rashers of fried
bacon, put them into your soap, and season it to your taste
with pepper and salt. Boil the whole a quarter of an hour
longer, put fried bread into the soup-dish or tureen, and pou/*
your soup over it. Or this soup may be made in the follow-
ing manner: When you boil a leg of pork, or a good piece
of beef, save the liquor. Take off the fat as soon as the li-
quor is cold, and boil a leg of mutton the next day. Save
that liquor also, and, when cold, in like manned take off the
fat. Set it on the fire, with two quarts of peas, and let them
boil till tender. Then put in the pork or beef liquor, with
no SOUPS.
the ingredients as above, and let it boil till it is as thick as you
wish it, allowing for another boiling: strain it off, and add
the ingredients, as above directed, for the last boiling.
Soupe de Santti.
TAKE four quarts of stock made as follows: take six good
rashers of lean ham, and put them on the bottom of a stew-
pan. Then put over them three pounds of lean beef, and
over the beef three pounds of lean veal, six onions cut in
slices, two carrots and two turnips sliced, two heads of celery,
a bundle of. sweet herbs, six cloves, and tvo blades of mace.
Put a little water at the bottom, and draw it very gently till it
sticks: then add a gallon of water, and let it stew for two
hours; season with salt to your taste, and strain it. Have
ready a carrot cut in *mall slices of two inches long, and
about as thick as a goose quill ; also a turnip, two heads of
leeks, the same of celery, and the same of endive, cut across;
two cabbage-lettuces cut across, and a very little sorrel and
chervil. Put them into a stewpari, and sweat for a quarter of
an hour; and put them into your soup, boil them up gently
for ten minutes, put in a crust of French roll into your tureen,
and pour your soup over it.
Soup de Sanle, tht English way.
To ten or twelve pounds of gravy beef add a knuckle of
veal and the knuckle part of a leg of mutton, a couple of
fowls, or two old cocks will do as well, and a gallon of water.
Let these stew very softly till reduced to one half; but mind
to set them to stew the night before. Add to them some
crusts of bread, a bunch of sweet herbs, some celery, sorrel,
chervil, and purslain, if agreeable; or any of them may be
left out: When it is strong and good strain it, and serve with
either a roast or boiled fowl, or a piece of roast or boiled neck
of veal in the middle.
Onion Soup.
TAKE eight or ten large Spanish onions, and boil them in
milk and water till quite soft, changing the milk and water
three times while the onions are boiling. When they are
quite soft, rub them through a hair sieve. Cut an old cock
in pieces, and, with a blade of mace, boil it for gravy: then
strain it, and having poured it on the pulp of the onions, boil
it gently, with the crumb of an old penny loaf, grated into
half a pint of cream, and season it to your taste with salt and
SOUPS. 171
Cayenne. Stewed spinach, or a few heads of asparagus, may
be added, as they give it a very pleasing flavour.
White Onion Soup.
BOIL thirty large onions in five quarts of water with a
knuckle of veal, a little whole pepper, and a blade or two of
mace. Take the onions up as soon as they are quite soft, rub
them throug'.i a hair sieve ; and work into them half a pound
of butter, with some flour. When the meat is boiled off" the
bones, strain the liquor to the onions, and boil it gently for
half an hour, and then serve with a large cupful of cream,
and a little salt. When the flour and butler-are .added, stif
well to prevent burning.
Hop-Top Soup.
IN the month of April, take a large quantity of hop-tops,
when they are in the greatest perfection. Tie them in
bundles of twenty or thirty in each ; lay them in spring
water for %n hour or two, drain them well from the water,
and put them to some thin peas soup. Boil them well, and
add three spoonsful of the juice of onions, some pepper and
salt. Let them boil some time longer, arid, when done, soak
some crusts of bread in the liquor, lay them in the tureen,
and pour in the soup k
Asparagus Soup.
CUT four or five pounds of beef to pieces ; set it over a
fire, with an onion or two, a few cloves, and some whole
black pepper, a calf's foot or two, a head or two of celery,
and a very little bit of butter. Let it draw at a distance from
the fire ; put in a quart of warm beer, and three quarts of
warm beef stock. Let these stew till enough ; strain it, take
off the fat very clean, put in some asparagus heads cut small
(palates may be added, boiled very tender), and a toasted
Drench roll, the crumb taken out,
Plumb Porridge for Christmas.
PUT in a leg and shin of beef into eight gallons of water,
and boil them till very tender. When the broth is strong,
strain it out. Then wipe the pot, and put in the broth again.
Slice six penny loaves thin, cut off the tops and bottoms, put
some of the liquor to them, and cover them up, and let them
stand for a quarter of an hour ; then boil and strain it, and
put it into your pot. Let it boil a quarter of an hour, then
put in five pounds of currants clean washed and picked. Let
172 SOUPS.
them boil a little, and add five pounds of stoned raisins of the
sun, and two pounds of prunes. Let these boil till they swell,
and put in a quarter of an ounce of mace, a quarter of an
ounce of cloves, and a small nutmeg, all beat fine. Before you
put these into the pot, mix them with a little cold liquor, and
do not put them in but a little while before you take off the
pot. When you take off the pot, put in three pounds of su-
gar, a little salt, a quart of sack, a quart of claret, and the
juice of two or three lemons. Yon may thicken with sago in-
stead of bread. Pour your porridge into earthen 'pans, and
keep it for use.
Milk Soup.
TAKE two quarts of new milk," two sticks of cinnamon, a
couple of bav-leaves, a very little basket-salt, and a very little
sugar. Then blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, while the
former matters are heating, and beat them up to a paste in a
marble mortar. Mix some milk with them by little and little,
and while they are beating, grate some lemon peel with the
almonds, and a little of the juice: strain it through a coarse
sieve, mix all together, and let it boil up, Cut some slices of
French bread, and dry them before the fire. Soak them a little
in the milk, lay them at the bottom of the tureen, and then
pour in the soup.
Milk Soup the Dutch way.
BOIL a quart of milk with cinnamon and moist sugar. Put
sippets into the dish, pour the milk over it, and set it over a
charcoal fire to simmer till the bread is soft. Take the yolks
of two eggs, beat them up, mix it with a little of the milk,
and throw it in : mix all together, and send it up to table.
Rice Soup.
PUT a pound of rice, and a little cinnamon, into two quarts
of water. Cover close, and simmer very softly till the rice is
quite tender. Take out the cinnamon, then sweeten it to the
palate, grate half a nutmeg, and let it stand till it is cold :
beat up the yolks of three eggs, with half a pint of white
wine, mix them very well and stir them into the rice. Set
them on a slow fire, and keep stirring all the time for fear of
curdling. When of a good thickness, and boiling, take it up.
Keep stirring it till it is put into the dish.
Turnip Soup.
PARE a bunch of turnips, save three or four out, and put the
rest into a gallon of water, with half an ounce of whole pep-
SOUPS. 173
per, an onion stuck with cloves, a blade of mace, half a nut-
meg bruised, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a large crust of
bread. Let these boil an hour pretty fast, then strain it through
a sieve, squeezing- the turnips through. Wash and cut a
bunch of celery very small, set it on in the liquor on the fire,
cover it close, and let it stew. In the meantime, cut the tur-
nips you saved into dice, and two or three small carrots clean
scraped, and cut into little pieces. Put half these turnips and
carrots into the pot with the celery, and the other half fry
brown in fresh butter, flouring them first; then two or three
onions peeled, cut into thin slices and fried J>r own : put all
into the soup, with one ounce of vermicelli. Let the soup boil
softly till the celery is quite tender, and the s<Sup good. Sea-
son with salt to the palate.
Egg Soup.
HAVING beaten the yolks of two eggs in a dish, with a piece
of butter as big as a hen's egg, take a tea-kettle of boiling
water in one hand, and a spoon in the other. Pour in about a
quart by degrees, then keep stirring it all the time well till
the eggs are well mixed, and the butter melted : pour it into
a saucepan, and keep stirring it all the time till it begins to sim-
mer: take it off the fire, and pour it between two vessels, out
of one into another, till it is quite smooth, and has a great
froth. Set it on the fire again, keep stirring it till quite hot,
then pour it into the soup-dish, and send it hot to table.
Cray-fish Soup.
TAKE half a hundred of fresh craw-fish, boil them, and pick
out all the meat, which must be carefully saved: take a
fresh lobster and pick out all the meat, which must be like-
wise saved : pound the shells of the lobster and cray-fish fine
in a marble mortar, and boil them in four quarts of water,
with four pounds of mutton, a pint of green split peas nicely /
picked and. washed, a large turnip, carrot, onion, an anchovy,
mace, cloves, a little thyme, pepper, and salt. Stew them on
a slow fire, till the goodness is out of the mutton and the
shells, and strain it through a sieve. Then put in the tails
of the cray-fish and the lobster meat, cut in very small pieces,
with the red coral of the lobster, If it has any. Boil half an
hour, and just before serving it up, put to it a little butter
melted thick and smooth. Stir it round several times, take
care not to make it too strong of the spice, and send it up
hot.
174 SOUPS.
Oyster Soup.
TAKE what quantity may be wanted of fish-stock ; then take
two quarts of oysters bearded, and beat them in a mortar, with
the yolks of ten e-gs boiled hard. Put them to the fish-stock,
and set it over the fire. Season with pepper, salt, and grated
nutmeg, and when it boils, put in the eggs and oysters. Let
it boil till it be of a good thickness, and like a fine cream.
Eel Soup.
TAKE a pound of eels, which will make a pint of good
soup, or any greater weight of eels, in proportion to the quan-
tity of soup intended to be made ; to every poui^d of eels put
a quart of water, a crust of bread, two or three blades of mace,
a little whole pepper, an onion, and a bundle of sweet herbs.
Cover them close, and let them boil till half the liquor is
wasted. Then strain it, and toast some bread ; cut it small,
lay the bread into the dish, and pour in the soup.
Muscle Soup.
WASH an hundred of muscles very clean, put them into a
stewpan, and cover them close. Let theifi stew till they open ;
then pick them out of the shells, strain 'the liquor through a
fine lawn sieve to your muscles, and pick out the beard or
crab, if any. Take a dozen crayfish, beat them fine with a
dozen of almonds blanched, and beat fine: then take a small
parsnip, and a carrot scraped, and cut it into thin slices, and
fry them brown with a little butter : take two pounds of any
fresh fish, and boil them in a gallon of water, with a bundle of
sweet herbs, a large onion stuck with cloves, whole black and
white pepper, a little parsley, and a little piece of horse-ra-
dish. Let them boil till half is wasted, and strain them through
a sieve. Put the soup into a saucepan, twenty of the mus-
cles, a few mushrooms and truffles cut small, and a leek
washed and cut very small. Take two French rolls, take out
the crumb, fry it brown, cut it into little pieces, and put it
into the soup. Boil it altogether for a quarter of an hour,
with the fried carrot and parsnip. In the meantime, take the
crust of the rolls fried crisp ; take half a hundred of the mus-
cles, a quarter of a pound of butter, a spoonful of water, shake
in it a little flour, and set them on the fire, keeping the sauce-
pan shaking all the time till the butter is melted. Season with
pepper and salt, beat the yolks of three e^gs, put them in,
tir them all the time for fear of curdling, and grate in a little
VEGETABLES. H5
intmeg. Wlien it is thick and fine, fill the rolls, pour the
oup into the dish, put in the rolls, and lay the rest of the mus-
;les round the rim of the dish.
Skate or Thornback Soup.
SKIN and boil two pounds of skate or thornback in six
parts of water. When enough, lake it up, pick off the flesh,
ind lay it by. Put in the bones again, and about two pounds
>f any fresh fish, a very little piece of lemon pee!, a bundle
>f sweet herbs, whole pepper, two or three blades of mace,
t little piece of horse-radish, the crust of a pefiny loaf, and a
ittle parsley ; cover close, and let it boil till reduced to about
wo quarts : strain it off, and add an ounce of vermicelli, set it
>n the fire, and Jet it boil gently. In the meantime, take a
Yench roll, cut a little hole in the top, take out the crumb,
md fry the crust brown in butter. Take the flesh of the fish
aid by, cut it into little pieces, and put it into a saucepan,
vith two or three spoonsful of the soup ; shake in a little flour,
mt iri a piece of butter, and a little pepper and salt ; shake
hem together in the saucepan over the fire till it is quite
hick, and then fill the roll with it. Pour the soup into the
ureen, and let the roll swim in the middle.
CHAPTER XVI.
ROOTS AND VEGETABLES.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
HE very careful that your greens are nicely picked and
washed, and when so done, alwaj's lay them in a clean pan,
for fear of sand and dust, which is apt to hang round wooden
i-essels. Boil all your greens in a well-tinned copper saucepan
by themselves, and be sure to let them have plenty of water.
Boil no kind of meat with them, as that will discolour them ;
and use no iron pans, sucb being very improper for the pur-
pose, but let them be either copper or br&ss well tinned ; or
silver. Numbers of cooks spoil their garden stufls by boiling
them too much. All kinds of vegetables should have a little
crispness; for if you boil them too much) you will deprive
them both of their sweetness and beauty.
N. B. A tea-spoonful of American pearl -ash thrown into
the water, will boil greens of a much finer colour than salt ;
and it is besides, perfectly wholesome.
VEGETABLES.
Cabbages.
ALL sorts of cabbages and young sprouts must have plenty
of water allowed them to boil in, and when the stalks become
tender, or fall to the bottom, it is a proof of their being suf-
ficiently boiled. Then take them off before they lose their
colour ; but remember always to throw some salt into the
water before the greens are put in. Send the young sprouts
to table whole as they come out of the pot; but many people
think cabbage is best chopped, and put into a saucepan, with
a. piece of butter, stirring it about for five or six minutes, till
the butter is all melted, then empty it on a dish, and serve it
up.
Turnips.
TURNIPS may be boiled in the pot with the meat, and in-
deed eat best when so done. When they are enough, take
them out, put them into a pan, mash them with butter and a
little salt, and in that state ^end them to table. Another me-
thod of boiling them is as follows : pare the turnips, and cut
them into little square pieces of the size of dice : put them
into a saucepan, and just cover them over with water. As
soon as they are enough, take them off the fire, and throw
them into a sieve to drain. Put them into a saucepan, with a
good piece of butter, stir them over the fire for a few minutes,
and they will then be fit for the table.
Potatoes.
THOUGH greens require plenty of water to be boiled in,
potatoes must have only a quantity sufficient to keep the
saucepan from burning. Keep them close covered, and as soon
as the skins begin to crack, they will be enough. Having
drained out all the water, let them stand covered for a minute
or two.
Scolloped Potatoes.
HAVING boiled the potatoes, beat them fine in a marble
mortar, with some cream, a large piece of butter, and a little
salt : put them into scollop shells, make them smooth on the
top, score them with a knife, and lay thin slices of butter on
the top of them. Then put them into a Dutch oven to brown
before the fire.
Spinach.
HAVING picked the spinach very clean, and washed it in
five or six waters, put it into a saucepan that will just hold
VEGETABLES. 177
it, throw a little salt over it, and cover it close : put in no
water, but take care to shake the pan often. Put the sauce-
pan on a clear and quick fire, and as soon as the greens are
shrunk and fallen to the bottom, and the liquor that comes out
of them boils up, it is a proof the spinach is enough. Throw
them into a clean sieve to drain, and just give them a gentle
squeeze; lay them on a plate, and send them, up with butter
in a boat, but never pour any over them.
Carrots.
SCRAPE the carrots very clean, put them into the pot, and
when they are enough take them out, and rub them in a clean
cloth, then slice them into a plate. If young' spring carrots,
half an hour will boil them sufficiently ; if large, they will re-
quire an hour; and old Sandwich carrots will take two hours
boiling.
French Beans.
STRING the beans, cut them in two, and then across: or,
cut them into four, and then aci'ossyso that each bean will
then be in eight pieces. Put them into salt and water, and
when the pan boils, put them in with a little salt. They will
be soon done, which may be known by their becoming tender:
but take care not to suffer them to lose their fine green colour.
French Beans ragooed*
STRING a quarter of a peck of French beans, but do not
split them. Cut them across in three parts, and lay them in
salt and water: take them out, and dry them in a coarse
cloth ; then fry them brown, pour out all the fat, and put in
a quarter of a pint of hot water. Stir it into the pan by de-
grees, ami let it boil. Then take a quarter of a pound of fresh
butter rolled in a little flour, two spoonsful of ketchup, a
spoonful of mushroom pickle, four spoonsful of white wine,
an onion stuck with six cloves, two or three blades of mace
beaten, half a nutmeg grated, and a little pepper and salt.
Stir it all together for a few minutes, and then throw in the
beans. Shake the pan for a minute or two, take out the onions,
and pour all into your dish.
French Beans ragoocd with a Force.
HAVING made a ragoo of beans as above directed, take two
large carrots, scrape them, and then boil them tender. Then
mash them in a pan, and season them with pepper and salt.
Mix them with a little piece of butter, and two eggs. Mak$
N
118 , , VEGETABLES.
it into any shape, and bake it a quarter of an hour in a quick
oven ; but a tin oven is the best. Lay it in the middle of the
dish, and the ragoo round it.
Cauliflowers.
CUT off all the green part from the cauliflowers, then cut
the flowers into four, and lay them into water for an hour:
then have some milk and water boiling; put in the cauli-
flowers, and be sure to skim the saucepan well. When the
stalks are tender, take up the (lowers carefully, and put them
into a cullender to drain. Then put a spoonful of water into
a clean stewpan, with a little dust of flour, about a quarter of
a pound of butter, and shake it round till it is all finely melted
with a little pepper and salt. Then take half the cauliflower,
and cut it as for pickling. Lay it into the stewpan, turn it,
and shake the pan round. Ten minutes will do it. Lay the
stewed in the middle of the dish, and the boiled round it,
and pour over it the butter.
Or, cauliflowers may be dressed in this manner: cut the
stalks off, leave a little gfcpen on, and boil them in spring water
and salt, for about fifteen minutes. Take them out and drain
them, and send them up whole, with some melted butter in a
boat.
Asparagus.
HAVING scraped all the stalks very carefully till they look
white, cut all the stalks even alike, throw them into water,
and have ready a stewpan boiling. Put in some salt, and tie
the asparagus in little bunches. Let the water keep boiling,
and when they are a little tender take them up. If boiled too
much they will lose both their colour and taste. Cut a round
of a small loaf, about half an inch thick, and toast it brown on
both sides. Then dip it in the liquor the asparagus was boiled
in, and lay it in the dish. Pour a little butter over the toast,
then lay the asparagus on the toast all round the dish, with the
white tops outwards.
Asparagus forced in French Rolls.
CiPr a piece out of the crust of the tops of three French
rolls, and take out all their crumb ; but be careful that the
crusts fit again in their places from whence they were taken.
Fry the rolls brown in fresh butter. Then take a pint of
cream, the yolks of six eggs beat fine, and a little salt and nut-
meg : stir well together over a slow fire till it begins to be
thick. Have ready a hundred of small grass boiled, and save
tops enough to stick the rolls with. Cut the rest of the tops
VEGETABLES. 179
small, put them into the cream, and fill the rolls with them.
Before frying the rolls, make holes thick in the top crusts, to
stick the grass in. Then lay on the pieces of crust, and stick
the grass in, that it may look as if it were growing.
Parsnips.
PARSNIPS must be boiled in plenty of water; and when
they become soft, which may be known by running a fork
into them, take them up, and carefully scrape all the dirt off
them. Then scrape them all fine with a knife, throwing away
all the sticky part, and send them up plain in a dish with melted
butter.
Brocoli.
CAREFULLY strip off all the little branches but the top one,
and then with a knife peel off all the hard outside skin that is
on the stalks and little branches, and then throw them into
water. Have ready a stewpan of water, throw in a little
salt, and when it boils, put in the brocoli. When the stalks
are tender, it will be enough. Put a piece of toasted bread,
soaked in the water the brocoli was boiled in, at the bottom
of the dish, and put the brocoli on the top of it, in the same
way as asparagus, and send it up to table with butter in a boat.
Windsor Beans.
THESE must be boiled in plenty of water, with a good quan-
tity of salt. Boil and chop some parsley, put it into good
melted butter, and serve them up.
Green Peas.
THE peas must not be shelled till just before they are
wanted : put them into boiling water, with a little salt and a
lump of loaf sugar, and when they begin to dent in the mid-
dle, they will be enough. Strain them into a sieve, put a good
lump of butter into the dish, and stir them till the butter is
melted. Boil a sprig of mint by itself, chop it fine, and lay
it round edge of the dish in lumps.
Peas Francoise.
SHELL a quart of peas, cut a large Spanish onion small,
and two cabbage or Silesia lettuces N Put to them half a pint
of water with a little salt and a little pepper, mace, and nut-
meg, all beaten. Cover them close, and let them stew a
quarterljf an hour. Then put in a quarter of a pound of fresh
N2
1 80 VEGETABLES.
butter rolled in a little flour, a spoonful of ketchup, and at
piece of burnt butter of the size of a nutmeg. Cover them
close, and simmer a quarter of an hour, observing frequently
to shake the pan.
Endive ragoocd.
LAY three heads of fine white endive in salt and water for
two or three hours. Then take a hundred of asparagus, and
cut off the green heads ; then chop the rest small, as far as it
is tender, and lay it in salt and water. Take a bunch of
celery, wash it and scrape it clean, and cut it in pieces about
three inches long. Put it into a saucepan with a pint of
water, three or four blades of mace, and some white pepper
tied in a rag. Let it stew till quite tender, then put in the
asparagus, shake the saucepan, and let it simmer till the grass
is enough. Take the endive out of the water, drain it, and
leave one large head whole. Take the other leaf by leaf, put
it into the stewpan, and put to it a pint of white wine. Cover
the pan close, and let it boil till the endive is just enough :
then add a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, cover
the pan close, and keep it shaking. When the endive is
enough, take it up, and lay the whole head in the middle : with
a spoon take out the celery and grass, and lay them round it,
and the other part of the endive over that. Then pour the
liquor out of the saucepan into the stewpan, stir it together,
and season it with salt. Have ready the yolks of two eggs
beat up with a quarter of a pint of cream, and half a nutmeg
grated in. Mix this Avith the sauce, keep it stirring one way
till it is thick, and pour it over the ragoo.
Force-meagre Cabbage.
BOIL a white-heart cabbage, as big as the bottom of a plate,
five minutes in water: drain it, cut the stalk flat to stand in
the dish, and carefully open the leaves, and take out the in-
side, leaving the outside leaves whole. Chop what is taken
out very fine, and take the flesh of two or three flounders or
plaice clean from th* bone. Chop it with the cabbage, the
yolks and whites of four eggs boiled hard, and a handful of
pickled parsley. Beat all together in a mortar, with a quarter
of a pound of melted butter. Then mix it up with the yolk
of an egg, and a few crumbs of bread. Fill the cabbage, and
tie it together; put it into a deep stewpan or saucepan, and
put to it half a pint of water, a quarter of a pound of butter
lolled in a little flour, the yolks of four eggs boiled hard, an
onion stuck with six cloves, some whole pepper and mace tied
in a muslin rag, half an ounce of truffles and morels, a spoon-
PUDDINGS. 181
ful of ketchup, and a few pickled mushrooms. Corer it close,
and let it simmer an hour; if not sufficiently done in that
time, let it simmer longer : when done, take out the onion
and spice, lay it in the dish, untie it, and pour the sauce over
it.
CHAPTER XVII.
PUDDINGS.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
\VHEN you boil a pudding, take particular care that your
cloth is clean, and remember to dip it in boiling water ; flour
it well, and give it a shake, before you put your pudding into
it. If it be a bread pudding tie it loose, but close if a batter
pudding. If you boil it in a bason, butter it, and boil it in.
plenty of water. Turn it often, and do not cover the pan ;
and whe/i enough, take it up in the bason, and let it stand a
few minutes to cool. Then untie the string, clap the cloth
round the bason, lay your dish orer it, and turn the pudding
out ; then take off the bason and cloth very carefully, light
puddings being apt to break. When you make a batter pud-
ding, first mix the flour well with a little milk, then put in
the ingredients by degrees, and it will be smooth and not
lumpy ; but for a plain batter pudding, the best way is to strain
it through a coarse hair sieve, that it may neither have lumps,
nor the treadles of the eggs ; and for all other puddings, strain
the eggs when you beat them. Bread and custard puddings
for baking, require time and a moderate oven to raise them ;
batter and rice puddings a quick oven, and always remember
to butter the pan or dish before you put your pudding into
jt.
Steak Pudding.
HAVING made a good crust, with flour and suet shred fine,
and mixed it up with cold water, season it with a little salt,
and make a pretty stiff crust, in the proportion of two pounds
pf suet to a quarter of a peck of flour. Take either beef or
mutton steaks, well season them with pepper and salt, and
make it up in the same manner as an apple pudding ; tie it
in a cloth, and put it in when the water boils. If a small pud-
ding, it will be boiled in three hours, but a large one will take
Jive hours.
PUDDINGS.
Calf's Foot Pudding.
MINCE very fine a pound of calves' feet, first taking out the
fat and brown. Then take a pound and a half of suet,
pick off all the skin, and shred it small. Take six eggs, all
the yolks, and but half the whites, and beat them well. Then
take the crumb of a halfpenny roll grated, a pound of currants
clean picked aad washed, and rubbed in a cloth, as much
milk as will moisten it with the eggs, a handful of flour, a
little salt, nutmeg, and sugar, to season it to the palate. Boil
it nine hours. ^Then take it up, lay it in the dish, and pour
melted butter over it. White wine and sugar may be put into
the butter, and it will be a very great improvement.
Yorkshire Pudding.
THIS pudding is usually baked under meat, and is thus made :
beat four large spoonsful of fine flour with four eggs, and a
little sak, for fifteen minutes. Then put to them three pints
of milk, and mix them well together. Then butter a drip-
ping-pan, and set it under beef, mutton, or a loin of veal,
when roasting. When it is brown, cut it into square pieces,
and turn it over; and when the under side is browned also,
send it to table on a dish.
Hunting Pudding.
Mix eight eggs beat up fine with a pint of good cream, and
a pound of flour. Beat them well together, and put to them
a pound of beef suet finely chopped, a pound of currants well
cleaned, half a pound of jar raisins stoned and chopped small,
two ounces of candied orange cut small, the same of candied
citron, a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and a large
nutmeg grated. Mix all together with half a gill of brandy,
put it into a cloth, tie it up close, and boil it. four hours.
Marrow Pudding.
GRATE a penny loaf into crumbs, and pour on them a pint
of boiling hot cream. Cut very thin a pound of beef marrow,
beat four eggs well, and then add a glass of brandy, with
sugar and nutmeg to the taste. Mix them all well together,
and then boil or bake it. Three quarters of an hour will do
it. Cut two ounces of citron very thin, and when it is served,
stick them all over it.
Or, having laid a thin paste in the dish, take some cream,
the yolks and whites of eight eggs beat up in rose water, some
PUDDINGS. 183
sugar, and a little nutmeg. Mix them all together. Rasp
some stale French rolls, and cut them in thin slices. Take
a quarter of a pound of currants washed, picked, and dried ;
put a layer of bread in the dish, strew some currants and
marrow sliced over it, then some custard, and so on alternately
until the dish is full. The dish must not be very deep.
After it is boiled, strew sugar over it.
Plum Pudding boiled,
CUT a pound of suet into little pieces, but not too fine, a
pound of currants washed clean, a pound of raisins stoned,
eight yolks of eggs, and four whites, half a' r nutmeg grated,
a tea-spoonful of beaten ginger, a pound of flourf and a pint of
rnilk. Beat the eggs first, then put to them half the milk,
and beat them together, and by degrees stir in the flour, then
the suet, spice, and fruit, as much milk as will mix it well
together very thick. It will take five hours boiling.
Oxford Pudding.
TAKE a quarter of a pound of grated biscuits, the same
quantity of currants clean washed and picked, the same of
suef shred small, half a large spoonful of powdered sugar, a
little salt, and some grated nutmeg. Mix them all well toge-
ther, and take two yolks of eggs, and make them up into
balls of the size of a turkey's egg. Fry them of a fine light
brown, in fresh butter, and let the sauce be melted butter and
sugar, with a little white wine put into it.
Custard Pudding.
FROM a pint of cream take two or three spoonsful, and
mix them with a spoonful of fine flour. Set the rest of the
cream on the fire to boil, and as soon as it is boiled, take it off,
and stir it in the cold cream and flour very well. When cool
beat up five yolks and two whites of eggs, and stir in a little
salt and some nutmeg, two or three spoonsful of sack, and
sweeten to the palate : butter a bason, and pour it into it, tie
a cloth over it, and boil it half an hour. Then take it out,
untie the cloth, turn the pudding into the dish, and pour on
it melted butter.
Sweetmeat Pudding.
COVER the dish with,a thin puff paste, then take candied
orange, lemon peel, and citron, of each an ounce. Slice them
thin, and lay them all over the bottom of the dish. Then
184 PUDDINGS.
beat eight yolks of eggs and two whites, near Haifa pound of
'sugar, and half a pound of melted butter. Beat all veil toge-
ther, pour in all the sweetmeats, and bake it something less
than an hour in a moderately heated oven.
Prune or Damson Pudding.
FROM a quart of milk take a few spoonsful, and beat in it
six yolks of eggs and three whites, four spoonsful of Hour, ;i
little salt, and two spoonsful of beaten ginger. Then, by de-
grees, mix in all the milk, and a pound of prunes. Boil it an
hour tied up in a cloth, and pour melted butter over it. Dam-
sons done this way eat full as well as prunes.
A
Orange Pudding.
HAVING boiled the rind of a Seville orange very soft, beat it
in a marble mortar with the juice, and put to it two Naples
biscuits grated very fine, a quarter of a pound of sugar, half
a pound 01 butter, and the yolks of six eggs. Mix well toge-
ther, lay a good puff paste round the edge of the dish, and
bake it half an hour in a gentle oven.
Or, take the yolks of sixteen eggs, beat them well with
half a pint of melted butter, grate in the rind of two Seville
oranges, beat in half a pound of line sugar, two spoonsful of
orange flower water, two of rose water, a gill of sack, half a
pint of cream, two Naples biscuits, or the crumb of a half-
penny loaf soaked in cream, and mix all well together. Make
a thin puff paste, and lay it all round the rim und over the
dish. Then pour in the pudding and bake it.
Or, beat sixteen yolks fine, mix them with half a pound of
fresh butter melted, half a pound of white sugar, half a pint
of cream, a little rose water, and a little nutmeg. Cut the
peel of a large Seville orange so thin that none of the white
may appear, beat it fine in a mortar till like a paste, and by
degrees mix in the ingredients. Then lay a puff paste all
over the dis.h, pour in the ingredients, and bake it,
Or, gratq off the rind of two large Seville oranges as far as
they are yellow. Then put the oranges in water, and let them
boil till tender: shift the water three or four times, to take
put the bitterness, and when tender, ctit them open, and take
away the seeds and strings. Beat the other part in a monar
with half a pound of sugar, till a paste, and add to it the
yolks of six eggs, three or four spoonsful of thick cream, and
half a Naples biscuit grated. Mix these together, melt a
pound of fresh butter very thick, and stir it well in. When
sold,, put a little puff paste about the bottom and rim of th$
PUDDINGS. 185
dish. Pour in the ingredients, and bake it about three quarters
of an hour. %
Biscuit Pudding.
POUR a pint of boiling milk or cream over three Naples
biscuits grated ; cover it close ; when cold add the yolks of
four eggs, the whites of two, some nutmeg, a little brandy,
half a spoonful of flour, and some sugar. Boil this an hour
in a china bason, and serve it with melted butter, wine, and
sugar.
Lemon Pudding.
CUT the rind very thin of three lemons, and boil them in
three quarts of water till tender. Then pound them very
line in a mortar, and have ready a quarter of a pound of
Naples biscuits, boiled up in a quart of milk or cream. Mix
them and the lemon rind with it, and beat up twelve yolks
>and six whites of eggs very fine. Melt a quarter of a pound
of fresh butter, and put in half a pound of sugar, ami a little
orange Hower water. Mix all well together, put it over the
stove, keep it stirring till it is thick, and then squeeze in the
juice of half a lemon. Put puff paste round the dish, as before
directed, then pour the pudding, cut some candied sweet-
meats and strew over it, and bake it three quarters of an hour.
Or, blanch and beat eight ounces of Jordan almonds with
orange flower water, and add to them half a pound of cold
butter, the yolks of ten eggs, the juice of a large lemon, and
half the rind grated fine. Work them in a marble mortar till
they look white and light, then put the putf paste on the dish",
pour in the pudding, and bake it .half an hour,
Sago Pudding.
BOIL tv. o ounces of sago in a pint of milk till tender. When
cold, add five eggs, two Naples biscuits, a little brandy, and
sugar it to the taste. Boil it in a bason, and serve it with
melted butter, a little wine and sugar.
Almond Pudding.
HAVING boiled the skins of two lemons very tender, and
beat them fine, beat half a pound of almonds in rose water,
and a pound of sugar, till they are very fine. Melt halt' a
pound of butter, and let it stand till quite cold. Beat the
yolks of eight, and the whites of four eggs, and then mix and
beat them all together with a little orange flower water. Bake
it in the oven.
186 PUDDINGS.'
Or, beat line a pound and a half of blanched almonds with
a little rose water, a pound of grated bread, a pound and a
quarter of fine sugar, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, a
large nutmeg beat fine, and half a pound of melted butter,
mixed with the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four beat
fine ; a pint of sack, a pint and a half of cream, and some rose
or orange/ flower water. Boil the cream, tie a little saffron in
a bag, and dip it into the cream to colour it. First beat the
eggs well, and mix them with the butter. Beat it up, add the
spice, then the almonds, then the rose water and wine by
degrees, beating it all the time ; then the sugar, and then the
cream by degrees, keeping it stirring ; and then add a quarter
of a pound of vermicelli. Stir all together, and have ready
some hog's guts nicely cleaned. Fill them only half full, and
whilst filling, here and there put in a bit of citron. Tie both
ends of the gut tight, and boil them about a quarter of an
hour.
Ipswich Almond Pudding.
TAKE a little more than three ounces of the crumb of white
bread sliced, or grated, and steep it in a pint and a half of
cream. Then beat half a pint of blanched almonds very
fine, with a little orange flower water, till like a paste. Beat
up the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four. Mix all
well together, put in a quarter of a pound of white sugar, and
stir in about a quarter of a pound of melted butter. Put it
over the fire, and keep stirring it till it is thick. Lay a sheet
of puff paste at the bottom of the dish, and pour in the ingre-
dients. Half an hour will bake it.
Duke of Buckingham's Pudding,
TAKE a pound of suet chopped fine, a quarter of a pound
of raisins stoned and chopped, two eggs, a little nutmeg and
ginger, two spoonsful of flour, and sugar it to the taste. Tie it
close, boil it four hours at least, and serve it with melted butter,
sack, and sugar.
Duke of Cumberland's Pudding.
TAKE flour, grated apples, currants, chopped suet, and
sugar, of each six ounces; six eggs, a little nutmeg and salt.
Boil it two hours at least, and serve it with melted butter,
wine, and sugar.
Herb Pudding.
TAKE a quart of grots, and steep them in warm water half
an hour. Take a pound of hog's lard, and cut it into little
PUDDINGS. 181
bits. Take of spinach, beets, parsley, and leeks, a handful of
each; three large onions chopped small, and three sage-leaves
cut fine. Put in a little salt, mix all well together, and tie it
close. It will require to be taken up in boiling, to loosen the
string a little.
Spinach Pudding.
PICK and wash clean a quarter of a peck of spinach, put it.
into a saucepan with a little salt, cover it close, and when
boiled just tender, throw it into a sieve to drain. Then chop
it with a knife, beat up six eggs, and mix well with it half a
pint of cream, and a stale roll grated Fine, a little nutmeg, and
a quarter of a pound of melted butter. Stir all well together,
put it into the saucepan in which the spinach was boiled,
and keep stirring it all the time till it begins to thicken. Then
wet and flour the cloth well, tie it up and boil it an hour.
When enough, turn it into the dish, pour melted butter over
it, and the juice of a Seville orange.
Cream Pudding.
BOIL a quart of cream with a blade of mace, and half a
nutmeg grated, and let it stand to cool. Beat up eight eggs
and three whites, and strain them well. Mix a spoonful of
flour with them, a quarter of a pound of almonds blanched,
and beat very fine, with a spoonful of orange flower, or rose
water. Mix with the eggs, then by degrees mix in the cream
and beat all well together. Take a thick cloth, wet and flour
it well, pour in the mixture, tie it close, and boil it half an
hour. Let the water boil fast all the time, and when it is
done, turn it into the dish, pour melted butter over it, with a
little sack, and throw fine sugar all over it.
Vermicelli Pudding.
TAKE four ounces of vermicelli, and boil it in a pint of new
milk till it is soft, with a stick or two of cinnamon. Then put
in half a pint of thick cream, a quarter of a pound of butter,
the like quantity of sugar, and the yolks of four eggs beaten.
Bake it without paste in an earthen ciish.
Rice Pudding.
HAVING boiled four ounces of ground rice in water till it is
soft, beat the yolks of four eggs, and put to them a pint of
cream, four ounces of sugar, and a quarter of a pound of but-
ter. Having mixed them well together, either boil or bake it.
Or, take a quarter of a pound of rice, put it into a sauce-
188 PUDDINGS.
pan, with a quart of new milk, a stick of cinnamon, and stir it
often to prevent it sticking to the saucepan. When it is boiled
thick, put it into a pan, stir in a quarter of a pound of fresh
butter, and sugar it to the palate. Grate in half a nutmeg,
add three or four spoonsful of rose water, and stir all well toge-
ther. When cold, beat up eight eggs with half the whites,
and then beat it all well together. Pour it into a buttered
dish, and bake it.
Or, take a quarter of a pound of rice, and half a pound of
raisins, and tie them in a cloth ; but give the rice a good deal
of roo;n to swell. Boil it two hours, and when enough, turn
it into the dish, and pour melted butter and sugar over it, with
a little nutmeg.
Or, tie a quarter of a pound of rice in a cloth, but give it
room for swelling. Boil it an hour, then take it up, untie it,
and with a spoon stir in a quarter of a pound of butter. Grate
some nutmeg, and sweeten it to the palate. Then tie it up
close, and boil it another hour. Then take it up, turn it into
the dish, and pour over it melted butter.
Or, boil a quarter of a pound of rice in a quart of new milk,
and keep stirring it that it may not burn. When it begins to
be thick, take it off, and let it stand till it is a little cool. Then
stir in well a quarter of a pound of butter, and sugar it to the
palate. Grate in a small nutmeg, then pour the pudding into
a buttered dish, and bake it.
Flour Hasty Pudding.
PUT four bay-leaves into a quart of milk, and set it on the
fire to boil ; then beat up the yolks of two eggs, and stir in a
little salt : take two or three spoonsful of milk, and beat up
with the eggs, and stir in the milk: then with a wooden spoon
in one hand, and the flour in the other, stir it in till it be of
a good thickness, but not too thick. Let it boil, and keep it
stirrng; then pour it into a dish, and stick pieces of butter
here and there. The eggs may be omitted, but they are a
good addition to the pudding. A little piece of butter stirred
in the milk makes it eat short and fine. Before the flour i*
put in, take out the bay-leaves.
Fine Hasty Pudding.
HAVING broken an egg into fine flour, with the hand work
up as much as possible into a stiff paste, and thus mince it as
small as possible. Then put it into a quart of boiling milk,
and add a little salt, a little beaten cinnamon, a little sugar, a
piece of butter as big as a walnut, and stir all one way. When
it is as thick as required, stir in such another piece of butter.
PUDDINGS. 189
then pour it into the dish, and stick pieces of, butter in dif-
ferent places.
Millet Pudding.
WASH and pick clean half a pound of millet seed, put to
it half a pound of sugar, a whole nutmeg grated, and three
quarts of milk, and break in half a pound of fresh butter.
Butter the dish, pour it into it, and send it to the oven.
Apricot Pudding.
TAKE six large apricots, and coddle them till tender, break
them very small, and sweeten them to the taste. When cold,
add to them six yolks and two whites of eggs: mix them
well together with a pint of good cream, lay a puff paste all
over the dish, and pour in the ingredients. Bake it half an
hour, in a moderately heated oven, anJ when enough, throw a
little fine sugar all over it.
Quaking Pudding.,
BEAT well together the yolks of six and the whites of three
eggs, with a pint of cream, and mix them well together.
Grate in a little nutmeg, a little salt, and add a little rose
water. Grate in the crumb of a halfpenny roll, or a spoon-
ful of flour, first mixed with a little of the cream, or a spoon-
ful of the flour of rice. Butter a cloth well, and flour it.
Then put in the mixture, tie it rather loose than tight, and
boil it half an hour briskly ; but remember the water must
boil before the pudding is put in.
Oat Pudding baked.
TAKE two pounds of decorticated oats, and drown them in
new milk: eight ounces of raisins of the sun stoned, the
same quantity of currants well picked and washed, a pound
of sweet suet shred finely, and six new-laid eggs well beaten
up. Season with nutmeg, beaten ginger, and salt, and mix
all well toether.
An Oatmeal Pudding, after the New England manner.
TAKE a pint of whole oatmeal, and steep it in a quart of
boiled milk over night. In the morning take half a pound of
beef suet shred fine, and mix with the oatmeal and boiled
milk, some grated nutmeg, and a little salt, with the yolks
and whites of three eggs, a quarter of ?i pound of currants,
a quarter of a pound or' raisins, and as much sugar as will
sweeten it. -Stir it well together, tie it pretty close, aud boil
it two hours. For tauce use melted batter.
190 PUDDINGS.
Transparent Pudding.
PUT eight eggs well beaten into a pan, with half a pound
of butter, and the same quantity of loaf sugar beat fine, with
a little grated nutmeg. Set it on the fire, and keep stirrino-
it till of the thickness of buttered eggs. Then put' it into
u bason to cool, roll a rich puff paste very thin, lay it round
the edge of the dish and pour in the ingredients. Bake it
half an hour in a moderately heated oven, and it will cut light
and clear.
French Barley Pudding.
TAKE the yolks of six eggs and the whites of three, beat
them up well, and put them into a quart of cream. Sweeten
to the palate, and put in a little orange flower water, and a
pound of melted butter. Then add six handfuls of French bar-
ley, having first boiled it tender in milk. Then butter a dish,
put it into it, and send it to the oven.
Potatoe Pudding.
BOIL a quarter of a pound of potatoes till they are soft,
peel them, and mash them with the back of a spoon, and rub
them through a sieve to have them fine and smooth. Then
take half a pound of fresh butter melted, half a pound of fine
sugar, and beat them well together till they are smooth. Beat
six eggs, whites as well as yolks, and stir them in with a glass
of sack or brandy. Half a pint of currants may be added.
Boil it half an hour, melt some butter, and put into it a glass
of white wine, sweeten it with sugar, and pour it over it.
Or, boil two pounds of white potatoes till they are soft, peel
and beat them in a mortar, and pulp them through a sieve till
quite fine. Then mix in half a pound of fresh butter melted,
beat up the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of three. Stir
them in with half a pound of white sugar finely pounded, half
a pint of sack, and stir them well together. Grate in half a
large nutmeg, and stir in half a pint of cream. Make a puff
paste, lay it all over the dish, and round the edges ; pour in
the pudding, and bake it till it is of a fine light brown.
Carrot Pudding.
SCRAPE a raw carrot very clean, and grate it. Take half a
pound of the grated carrot, and a pound of grated bread ; beat
up eight eggs, leave out half the whites, and mix the eggs
with half a pint of cream. Then stir in the bread and carrot,
half a pound of fresh butter melted, half a pint of sack, three
PUDDINGS. 191
.spoonsful of orange flower water, and a nutmeg grated.
Sweeten it to the palate. Mix all well together, and if not
thin enough, stir in a little new milk or cream. Let it be of
a moderate thickness, lay a puff paste all over the dish, and
pour in the ingredients. It will take an hour's baking. If
intended to be boiled, melted butter, white wine and sugar,
must be added.
Or, pare the crust of two penny loaves, soak them in a quart
of boiling milk, and let them stand till cold. Then grate
in two or three large carrots, and put in eight egg.? well
beaten, and three quarters of a pound of fresh butter melted.
Grate in a little nutmeg, and sweeten to the taste. Cover the
dish with ppff paste, pour in the ingredients, and bake it an
hour.
Suet Pudding boiled.
TAKE four spoonsful of flour, a pound of suet shred small,
four eggs, a spoonful of beaten ginger, a tea-spoonful of salt,
and a quart of milk. Mix the eggs and flour with a pint of
the milk very thick, and with the seasoning mix in the rest
of the milk and suet. Let the batter be pretty thick, and boil
it two hours.
Veal Suet Pudding.
CUT the crumb of a three-penny loaf into slices; boil and
pour two quarts of milk on the bread ; one pound of veal suet
melted down and poured into the milk. Add to these one
pound of currants, ancl sugar to the taste, half a nutmeg, and
six eggs well mixed together. If to be baked, butter the dish
well. This will do for either baking or boiling.
Cabbage Pudding.
TAKE two pounds of beef suet, and as much of the lean part
of a leg of veal. Take a little cabbage and scald it ; then
bruise the suet, veal, and cabbage together in a marble mor-
tar. Season with mace, nutmeg, ginger, a little pepper and
salt, some green gooseberries, grapes, or barberries. Mix them
all well together, with the yolks of four or five eggs well
beaten. Wrap all up together in a green cabbage leaf, and
tie it in a cloth. An hour will boil it.
Lady Sunderland's Pudding.
TAKE a pint of cream, eight eggs, leave out three whites,
five spoonsful of flour, and half a nutmeg. When they are
going to the oven, butter small basons, fill them half full, bake
1 92 PUDDINGS.
them half an hour, and grate some sugar over them. For sauce,
melted butter, wine, and sugar. When they are baked, turn
them out of the basons, and pour some of the sauce over
them.
Pith Pudding.
PUT a'proper quantity of the pith of an ox all night in water,
to soak out the blootl, and in the morning strip it out of
the skin, and beat it with the back of a spoon in orange wator
till it is as fine as pap. Then take three pints of thick cream
and boil in it two or three blades of mace, a nutmeg quartered ^
and a stick of cinnamon : add half a pound of the best Jordan
almonds, blanched in cold water, and beat them with a little
of the cream; and as it dries, put in more cream. When
they are all beaten, strain the' cream from them to the pith.
Then take the yolks of ten eggs, and the whites of but two,
and beat them well, and put them to the ingredients. Take
a spoonful of grated bread, or Naples biscuit, and mix all these
together, with half a pound of fine sugar, the marrow of four
large hones, and a little salt. Fill them in small ox or hog's
guts, or bake it in a dish, with puff paste round the edges and
under it.
Citron Pudding.
TAKE a spoonful of fine flour, two ounces of sugar, a little
nutmeg, and half a pint of cream. Mix them all well toge-
ther, with the yolks of three eggs. Put it in tea-cups, and
stick in it two ounces of citron cut very thin. Bake them in *
pretty quick oven, and turn them out upon a China dish.
Bread Pudding.
SLICE thin all the crumb of a penny loaf into a quart of milk.,
and set it over a chafing dish of coals till the bread has soaked
up all the milk. Then put in apiece of butter, stir it round,
and let it stand till it is cold ; or the milk may be boiled and
poured over the bread, and covered up close, which will
equally answer the same purpose. Then take the yolks of six
eggs, and the whites of three, and beat them up with a little
rose water and nutmeg, and a little salt and sugar. Mix all
well together, and boil it an hour.
Or, cut thin all the crumb of astale penny loaf, and putit into
a quart of cream. Set it over a slow fire till scalding hot, and
then Jet it stand till cold. Beat up the bread and cream well
together, and grate in some nutmeg. Take twelve bitter al-
monds, boil them in t-.vo spoonsful of water, pour the water to
the cream, stir it in with a little salt, and sweeten it to the
PUDDINGS, 19$
taste. Blanch the almonds, and heat them in a mortar,, with
two spoonsful of rose or orange-Mower water till they are a
fine, paste. Then mix them by degrees with the cream., and
when well mixed, take t ! ie yolks of eight eggs, and the whites
of four; beat them well, and mix them with the cream, and
th'-n mix them all together. A bowl or bason will be best to
boil it in ; but if a cloth is used, dip it in the hot water, and
flour it well. Tie it loose, and boil it an hour. Take care that
the water boil when it is put in, and that it keep boiling all
the uri". When enough, turn it into the dish. . Melt some
bimer, and put into it two or three spoonsful of; white wine or
sack ; give it a boil, and pour it over ; the pudding. Then
strew a good deal of fine sugar all over the pudding and dish,
and send it hot to table.
A baked Bread Pudding.
RASP or crumble the crumb of a penny loaf, take the same
qu ntity of flour, the yolks of four eggs, and two whites, a
tea-spoonful of ginger, half a pound of raisins stoned, half a
pound of' currants clean washed and picked, and a litile salt,
Mix first the bread and flour, ginger, salt, and sugar, to the
palace, then the eggs, and as much milk as will make it like a
good batter ; then the fruit. Butter the dish, pour it in, and
bake it.
Or, boil half a pint of milk with a bit of cinnamon ; take four
eggs, and he whites well beaten, the rind of a lemon grated,
half a pound of suet chopped fine, and as much bread as ne-
cessary. Pour the milk on the bread and suet, keep mixing
it till cold, then put in the lemon peel, eggs, a little sugar, and
some nutmeg grated fine. This pudding may be either baked
or boiled.
A Spoonful Pudding.
TAKE a spoonful of flour, a spoonful of cream or milk, an
egg, a little nutmeg, ginger^, and salt. Mix all together, and
boil it in a little bason half an hour. Or add a few currants^
Tansy Pudding.
To four Naples biscuits grated, put as much boiling hot
cream as will wet them. Then beat up the yolks of four
eggs, and have ready a few chopped tansy leaves, with as
much spinach as will make it a pretty green. Be careful not
to put in too much tansy, as that will make it bitter. When"
the cream is cold, mix all together with a little sugar, and set
jt over a slow fire till it is thick. Then take it off, and when
cold put it in a cloth well buttered and floured. Tie it UH
o
194 PUDDINGS.
close, and let it boil three quarters of an hour. Take it up in a
bason, and let it stand one quarter of an hour. Then turn it
out carefully, and put round it white wine sauce.
Or, blanch four ounces of almonds, and beat them very fine
with rose-water. Pour a pint of cream boiling hot on a French
roll sliced very thin. Beat four eggs well, and mix with them
a little sugar and nutmeg- grated, a glass of brandy, a little
juice of tansy, and the juice of spinach, to make it green. Put
all the ingredients into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound
of butter, and give it a gentle boil. It may be either boiled or
baked.
White Puddings in Skins.
. j.
BOIL half a pound of rice in milk till it is soft, having first
washed the rice well in warm water. Put it into a sieve to
drain, and beat half a pound of Jordan almonds very fine with
some rose-water. Wash and dry a pound of currants, cut into
small bits a pound of hog's lard, beat up six eggs well, half a
pound of sugar, a little nutmeg grated, a stick of cinnamon, a
little mace, and a little salt. Mix them well together, fill the
skins, and boil them.
Quince, Apricot, or White Pear-Plumb Pudding.
HAVING scalded the quinces till thev are very tender, pare
them thin, and scrape off the soft. Mix it with sugar till it is
very sweet, and add a little ginger and cinnamon. To a pint
of cream put three or four yolks of eggs, and stir it into the
quinces till they are of a good thickness. Remember to make
it pretty thick. Butter the dish, pour it in, and bake it.
Apricots, or white-pear plumbs may be treated in the same
manner.
Cowslip Pudding.
CUT and pound small the flowers of a peck of cowslips,
with half a pound of Naples biscuits grated, and three pints of
cream. Boil them a little, then take them off the fire, and
beat up sixteen eggs with a little cream and rose-water.
Sweeten to the palate. Mix it all well together, butter a dish,
and pour it in. Bake it, and when enough, throw fine sugar
over it, and serve it up. New milk will do well enough for
these sorts of puddings, if cream cannot be had.
Pearl Barley Pudding.
WASH a pound of pearl barley clean, put to it three quarts
of new milk, half a pound of double refined sugar and a nut-
PUDDINGS. 195
.
meg grated ; then put it into a deep pan, and bake it with
brown bread. Take it out of the oven, beat up six eggs, and
mix all well together. Butter a dish, pour it in, bake it again
an hour, and it will be very good.
French Barley Pudding.
To six eggs well beaten put a quart of cream, half the
whites, sweeten to the palate, a little orange flower or rose-
water, and a pound of melted butter. Then put in six hand-
fuls of French barley, which has been boiled tender in milk.
Butter the dish, and put it in. It will take as long baking as
a venison pasty.
Chesnut Pudding.
BOIL a dozen and a half of chesnuts in a saucepan of water
for a quarter of an hour. Then blanch, peel, and beat them in
a marble mortar, with a little orange-flower or rose-water and
sack, till they come to a fine thin paste. Then beat up twelve,
eggs with half the whites, and mix them well. Grate half a
nutmeg, a little salt, and mix them with three pints of cream,
and half a pound of melted butter. Sweeten it to the palate,
and mix all together. Put it over the fire, and keep stirring
it till it is thick. Lay a puff paste all over the dish, pour in the
mixture, and bake it. When cream cannot be had, take three
pints of milk. Beat up the yolks of four eggs, and stir it into
the milk. Set it over the, fire, stirring all the time till it is
scalding hot, and then mix it instead of cream.
Sweetmeat Pudding.
HAVING put a thin puff paste all over the dish, take candied
orange, lemon peel, and citron, of each an ounce. Slice them
thin, and lay them all over the bottom of the dish, then beat
eight yolks of eggs and two whites, near half a pound of sugar,
and half a pound of melted butter. Beat all well together,
and pour it on the sweetmeats as soon as the oven is ready,
which must not be too hot. An hour or less will bake it<
Bread and Butter Pudding.
CUT a penny loaf into thin slices of bread and butter, as
for tea. Butter the dish, and lay slices all over it. Then
strew a few currants washed and picked clean, then a row of
bread and butter, then a few currants, and so on till the bread
and butter is all in: take a pint of milk, beat up four eggs, a
little salt, and half a nutmeg grated. Mix all together with
sugar to the taste : then pour it over the bread, and bake it
O 3
1 6 PUDDINGS.
half an hour. A puff paste under does best. Two spoonsful
of rose-water may be added, if approved of.
Cheese-curd Pudding.
TURN a gallon of milk with rennet, and drain off all the curd
from the whey. Put the curd into a mortar, and beat it with
half a pound of fresh butter, till tue butter and curd are well
mixed. Then beat the yolks of six eggs and the whites of
three, and strain them to the curd: grate two Naples biscuits,
or half a penny roll. Mix all the.-e together, and sweeten to
the palate. Butter pattypans, and fill t tern with the inure-
dient. Bake them in a moderately heated oven, and when
they are done, turn them out into a dish. Cut citmnand can-
died orange peel into little narrow bits, about an inch long,
and blanched almonds cut in long slips. Stick them here and
there on the tops of the puddings, according to fancy. Pour
melted butter, with a little sack in it, into the dish, and throw
fine sugar all over the puddings and dish.
tipple Pudding.
PARE twelve large pippins, and take out the cores. Put them
into a saucepan, with four or five spoonsful of water, and boil
them till soft and thick : beat them well, stir in a pound of
loaf sugar, the juice of three lemons, and the peel of one cut
thin and beat fine in a mortar, and the yolks of eight eggs
beaten. Mix all well together, and bake it in a slack oven.
When nearly done, throw over it a little fine sugar. It may
be baked with a puff paste at the bottom of the dish, and
round the edges of it.
Apple Dumplins.
HAVING pared the apples, take out the core with an apple-
scraper, and fill the hole with quince or orange marmalade, or
sugar : take a piece of cold paste, and make a hole in it. Lay
in the apple, and put another piece of paste in the same form,
and close it up round the side of the apple, which is much
better thnn gathering it in a lump at one end. Tie it in a
cloth, and boil it three quarters of an hour. Serve them up
>vith melted butter poured over them.
Gooseberry Pudding.
TAKE half a pint of green gooseberries, and scald them in
water till soft. Put them into a sieve to drain, and when cold
work them through a hair sieve with the back of a clean wooden
spoon. Then add half a pound of sugar, the same of but-
PUDDINGS. 197
ter, four ounces of Naples biscuits, and six eggs beaten. Mix
all together an:! beat them a quarter of an hour. Pour it in
an carter,:; dish, without paste, and bake it half an hour.
Suet Dumplins with Currants.
TAKE a pint of milk, four eggs, a pound of suet, a little
salt and nutmeg, two tea-spoonsful of ginger, and what flour
will make it into a light paste. When the water boils, make
the paste into dumplins, rolled with a little flour, the size of
a goose's egg. Throw them into the water, and move them
g nr!\ to prevent their sticking. A little more than half an
hour will boil them.
Raspberry Dumplins.
MAKE a good puff paste, and roll it. Spread over it rasp-
berrv jam, roll it up, and boil it an hour. Cut it into five slices,
pour melted butter into the dish, and grated sugar round it.
Pennyroyal Dumplins.
GRATE the crumb of a penny loaf, take three quarters of
a pound of beef suet, the same of currants, four eggs, a little
brandy, a little thyme and pennyroyal, and a handful of pars-
ley shred. Mix all well, roll them up with flour, and put them
into cloths. Three quarters of an hour will boil them.
Yeast Dumplins.
WITH flour, water, yeast, and salt, make a light dough as
for bread, cover it with a cloth, and set it before the fire, for
half an hour. Then have a saucepan of water on the fire,
and when it boils take the dough, and make it into little
round balls, as big as a large hen's egg. Then flatten them,
with the hand, put them into the boiling water, and a few
minutes will do them. Take care that they do not fall to the
bottom of the pot or saucepan, for they will then be heavy,
and be sure to keep the water boiling all the time. When
enough take them up, and lay them in the dish, with melted
butter in a boat. To save trouble, dough may be had at the
baker's, which will do equally as well.
Norfolk Dumplins.
TAKE half a pint of milk, two eggs, a little salt, and make
them into a good thick batter with flour. Have ready a clean
saucepan of water boiling, and drop the batter into it, and
two or three minutes will boil them; but be particularly care-
ful that the water boils fast when the batter is put in. Theu
198 PUDDINGS.
throw them into a sieve to drain, turn them in a dish, and
stir a lump of fresh butter into them. They will be very good
if eaten hot.
Hard Dumplins.
MAKE some flour and water, with a little salt, into a sort of
paste. Roll them in balls as big as a turkey's egg. lloll them
in a little flour, throw them into boiling water, and half an
hour will boil them. They are best boiled with a good piece
of beef. Add, for change, a few currants. Serve them up
with melted butter in a boat.
Batter Pudding.
TAKE a quart of milk, beat up the yolks of six eggs, and
the whites of three, and mix them with a quarter of a pint of
milk. Take six spoonsful of flour, a tea-spoonful of salt, and
one of beaten ginger. Mix them all together, boil them an
hour and a quarter, and pour melted butter over the pudding.
If approved, put in half a pound of prunes or currants, and
two or three more eggs.
Or, take a quart of milk, mix six spoonsful of flour with
a little of the milk first, a tea-spoonful of salt, two of beaten
ginger, and two of the tincture of saffron. Then mix all
together, and boil it an hour.
Baiter Pudding without Eggs.
Mix six spoonsful of flour with a little milk, a tea spoonful
of salt, two tea-spoonsful of beaten ginger, and two of the
tincture of safFon. Mix it with near a quart of milk, and boil
it an hour. Fruit may be added.
A Grateful Pudding.
To a pound of flour add a pound of white bread grated.
Take eight eggs, but only half the whites. Beat them up, and
mix with them a pint of new milk. Then stir in the bread and
flour, a pound of raisins stoned, a pound of currants, half a
pound of sugar, and a little beaten ginger. Mix all well to-
gether, and either bake or boil it. It will 'take three quarters
of an hour baking. Cream instead of milk, will be a great
improvement.
Ratafa Pudding.
BOIL a quart of cream, with a laurel leaf; take it out, and
break in half a pound of Naples biscuits, half a pound of but-
PIES. 199
ter, some sack, nutmeg, and a little salt. Take it off the fire,
cover it up, and when almost cold, put in two ounces of
blanched almonds beaten fine, and the yolks of five eggs. Mix
all together, and bake it half an hour in a moderately heated
oven. Before it is put into the'oven grate a little sugar over
it.
CHAPTER XVIII.
PIES.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
x\s the heat of your oven must be regulated by what you
intend to bake, the following rules should be carefully at-
tended to. Light paste requires a moderate oven, but not
too slow, as that will deprive it of the light appearance it
should have; and too quick an oven will catch and burn it,
without giving it time to rise. Tarts that are iced require a
slow oven, 'or the icing will be brown before the paste is pro-
perly baked. Raised pies must have a quick oven, and be
well closed up, or your pie will fall in the sides. It should
have no water put in till just before you put it into the oven,
as that will make the crust look sodden, and perhaps be the
cause of the pie running, which will infallibly spoil it.
Different kinds of Pastes for Tarts, Pies, Sfc.
CRISP paste for tarts is made thus: Mix an ounce of loaf
sugar, beat and sifted, with a pound of fine flour, and make
it into a stiff paste with a gill of boiling cream. Work three
ounces of butter into it, roll it very thin, and having made
the tarts, beat the white of an egg a little, and rub Jjt over
them with a feather, and bake them as above directed? "
* Icing for Tarts.
BEAT the white of an egg to strong froth, and put in, by
degrees, four ounces of double-refined sugar, with as much
gum as will lie on sixpence, beat and sifted fine. Beat them
naif an hour, and then lay it thin on the tarts.
PuffPaste.
RUB a pound of butter very fine into a quarter of a peck of
flour. Make it up into a light paste with cold water, just stiff
PIES.
enough to work.it. Then roll it out about the thickness of a
<:rown piece, and put a layer of butter ad over. Sprinkle ou
a htile flour, double it up, and 10'; it out again. Double it
and roll it out sexen or ei.ght times, when it will be fit for all
sorts oi pies and tarts that require a puff paste.
Or, beat the wh te oi an egg to a strong froth, and mix it
with as much water as will make three quarters of a poiii'd of
flour into a to.erably stiff paste. Rofl it out vet> thin, lay
the th.rd part of a half pound of butter in thin piece.-*, and
.dredge it with a little more flour. Roll it up n^l,, then roll it
out again, and continue to do so until half a pound ol hotter
a:.d .flour is used. Cut it in square pieces, and make the tarts.
This will require a quicker oven than for your crisp paste.
Paste for Custards.
POUK half a pound of br iling butter on two pounds of flour,
with as much water as will make it into a good paste. Work
it well, and when it has cooled a little, rai^e t e custards, put
a paper round the inside of them, and when they arc half
baked, fill them.
In making any kind of dripping-paste, boil it four or five
minutes in a good quantity of water, to take the strength oft 7
it.
Ccld Crust with Suet.
SHRED the suet fine, pour part of it into the flour, then
make it into a paste, and roll it out as before, with this dif-
ference, make use of suet instead of butter.
A good Crust for great Pics.
PUT the volks of three eggs to a peck of flour, and in some
boiling \\ater, then put half a pound of suet, and a pound
and a half of butter. Skim off the butter and suet, and as
much of the liquor as will make it alight gooa crust. Work
it up well, and roll it out.
A standing Crust for great Pies.
TAKE a peck rf flour; and six pounds of butter boiled in a
gallon of water. Skim it off into the flour, and as little of the
liquor as possible. Work it up well into a paste, and then
pull it into pieces till it is cold : make it up into the form re-
quired. 1 his paste is proper for the walls of a goose pie.
Lamb or Vtal Pies.
CUT lamb or veal into little pieces, and season if with pep-
per, salt, cloves, mace, and nutn eg, beat fine. Make a good
putt paste crust, lay it into the dish, then lay in the meat, and
strew on it some stoned rai-.hs and currants clean washed, and
some sugar : add some forcemeat balls made sweet, and in the
Plies. 201
.-summer some artichoke bottoms boiled, and in the winter,
scalded grapes. Boil Spanish potatoes cut in pieces, candied
citron, candied orange, lemon peel, and three or four blades
of mace. Put butter on the top, close up the pie, and bake it.
Against its return from the oven, have ready a liaison made
thus: take a pint of white wine, and mix in the yolks of three
eggs. Stir it well together over the fire, one wav, all the
time, till it is thick: take it off, stir in sugar enough to sweeten
it, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon : put it hot into the
pie, close it up again, and serve as hot as possible.
Savoury Veal Pie.
CUT a breast of veal into pieces, season it with pepper and
salt, and lay it ail into the crust. Boil six or eight hard PI _> s,
but take only the yolks ; put them into the pie here and mere,
then fill the dish almost full of second stock, put on the lid,
and bake it well.
- Beef Steak Pie.
BEAT some rump steaks with a rolling-pin, and season them
with pepper and salt to the palate. Make a good crust, lay in
the steaks, and then pour in as much \\ater as will half fill the
dish. Put on the crust, and bake it well.
Ox Cheek P-ie.
HAVING baked the ox-cheek, taking care not to do it too
much, let it lie in the oven all night, and it will be ready for
further use the next day. Make a fine puff paste crust, and let
the side and top-crust be thick. The dish must be deep, in
order to hold a good deal of gravy. Cover the inside of it
with crust, then cut ail the flesh, kernels, and fat off' the
head, with the palate cut in pieces. Cut all the meat into
little pieces, as if it were for a hash, and lay it in the dish.
Take an ounce of truffles and morels, and throw them over
the meat, the yolks of six eggs boiled hard, a gill of pickled
mushrooms, if fresh ones are not to be had ; put in plenty of
forcemeat balls, a few artichoke bottoms, or asparagus tops, if
in season. Season the pie with pepper and salt, and fill it
with the gravy it was baked in. If the head were rightly sea-
soned before it went to the oven, it will want very little more
when it comes out. Then put on the lid and bake it, and
the pie will*be enough as soon as the crust is properly baked.
. CaJfs Foot Pie.
HAVING put the calf's feet into a saucepan, with three
quarts of water, and three or four blades of mace, let them
202 PIES.
boil softly till there is about a pint and a half only : take out
the feet, strain the liquor, and make a good crust. Cover the
dish, then pick off the flesh from the bones, and lay half in the
dish : strew over it half a pound of currants, clean washed and
picked, and half a pound of raisins stoned. Then lay on the
rest of the meat, skim the liquor, sweeten it to the taste, and
put in half a pint of white wine. Then pour all into the dish,
put on the lid, and bake it an hour and a half.
Mutton Pie.
TAKE off the skin and inside fat of a loin of mutton, and
cut it in steaks; season it well with pepper and salt to the
palate. Lay it into the crust, fill it, and pour in as much
water as will almost fill the dish : put on the crust, and bake it
well.
Venison Pasty.
HAVING boned a breast or shoulder of venison, season it
well with pepper, salt, and mace ; lay it in a deep dish, with
the best part of a neck of mutton, cut in slices, and laid over
the venison : pour in a large glass of red wine, put a coarse
paste over it, and bake it two hours in an oven. Then lay the
venisen into a dish, and pour the gravy and a pound of but-
ter over it : make a good puff paste, and lay it near half an
inch thick round the edge of the dish ; roll out the lid, which
must be somewhat thicker than the paste on the edge of the
dish, and lay it on : then roll out another lid pretty thin, and
cut it in flowers, leaves, or whatever form is required, and lay
it on the lid. If the pie should not be immediately wanted, it
will keep in the pot it was baked in, eight or ten days ; but
in that case, keep the crust on, to prevent the air getting into
it.
Savoury Veal Pie.
SEASON a loin of veal, cut into steaks, with salt, pepper,
nutmeg, and beaten mace ; lay the meat in the dish, with
sweetbreads seasoned, and the yolks of six hard eggs, a pint of
oysters, and half a pint of good gravy : lay a good puff paste
round the dish, half an inch thick, and cover it with a lid of
the same thickness. Bake it an hour and a quarter in a quick
oven, and when it is taken out of the oven, cut off the lid ;
and divide it into eight or ten pieces, sticking them round the
inside of the rim. Cover the meat with slices of lemon.
Ham Pie.
CUT cold boiled ham into slices about half an inch thick,
and put a good thick crust over the dish : put in a layer of
PIES. 203
ham, and shake a little white pepper over it ; take a large
young fowl, clean picked, gutted, washed, and singed. Put a
little white pepper and salt in the belly, and rub a very little
salt on the outside. Lay the fowl on the ham, boil some
eggs hard, put in the yolks, and cover all with the ham.
Then shake some white pepper on the ham, and put on the
top crust. Bake it well, and have ready against it comes out
of the oven, some very rich beef gravy, enough to fill the pie :
then lay on the crust again, and send it to table. Some
truffles and morels boiled, or some fresh mushrooms, or dried
ones, put into the pie, are a great improvement.
Calf s- Head Pie.
HAVING cleansed and boiled the head tender, carefully take
off the flesh as whole as possible : take out the eyes, and
slice the tongue ; make a good puff paste crust, cover the
dish, and lay on the meat. Throw the tongue over it, and
lay the eyes, cut in two, at each corner. Season it with a very
little white pepper and salt, pour in half a pint of the liquor
it was boiled in, lay on it a thick top crust, and bake it an
hour in a quick oven. In the meantime, boil the bones of
the head in two quarts of second stock, with two or three blades
of mace, half a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, a large
onion, and a bundle of sweet herbs. Let it boil till it is re-
duced to about a pint ; strain it off, and add two spoonsful of
ketchup, three of red wine, a small piece of butter rolled in
flour, and half an ounce of truffles and morels. Season to
the palate, and boil it. Boil half the brains with some sage,
beat them, and twelve leaves of sage chopped fine : stir all
together, and give it a boil. Take the other part of the brains,
and beat them, with some of the sage chopped fine, a little
lemon peel finely minced, and half a small nutmeg grated.
Beat it up with an egg, and fry it in little cakes of a fine light
brown. Boil six eggs hard, of which take only the yolks; and
when the pie comes out of the oven, take off the lid, lay the
'eggs and cakes over it, and pour in all the sauce Send it hot
to table without the lid.
Goose Pie.
TAKE half a peck of flour, and make the walls of a goose
pie, as directed in the second article of this chapter respecting
the different kinds of pastes. Having raised the crust just big
enough to hold a large goose, take a pickled dried tongue
boiled tender enough to peel, and cut off the root: bone a
goose and a large fowl ; take half a quarter of an ounce of mace
beat fine, a large tea-spoonful of beaten pepper, and three tea-
204 PIES.
spoonsful of salt. Mix all together, and season the fowl and
goose with it. Then lay the fowl in the goose, the* tongue in
the fowl, and the goose in the same manner as if whole. Put
half a pound of butter on the top, and put on the lid. This
pie may be eaten either hot or cold.
Yorkshire Goose. Pie.
SPLIT a large fat goose down the back, and take out all the
bones ; treat a turkey and two ducks the same way, and sea-
son them well with salt and pepper, and also six woodcocks.
Lay tht goose down on a clean dish, with the skin-side clown,
and lay the turkey into the goose in the same manner. Have
reudy a large hare, well cleaned, and cut in pieces, and stewed
in the oven, with a pound of butter, a quarter of an ounce of
mace beat fine, the same of white pepper, ;:nd salt to the taste.
Stew it till the meat leaves the bones, and skim the butter off
the gnw. Pick the meat clean off, and beat it very fine in a
marble mortar witii the butter taken off, arid then lay it in the
turkey. Take twentv-four pounds of the finest flour, six
pounds of bu;ter, and half a pound of fresh rendered suet.
Make the paste pretty thick, andr,aise the pie in an oval form.
Roil out-a lump of paste, and cut it into vine-leaves, or any
other form ; then rub the pie with the yolks of eg^s, and put
the ornaments on the walls : turn the hare, turkev, and goose,
upside down, and lay them in the pie, with the ducks at each
end, and the woodcocks at the sides; make the lid pretty
thick, and put it on. Ornament the lid, but make a hole in
the middle of it, and make the walls of the pie an inch and a
half higher than the lid. Then rub it all over with the yolks
of eggs, and bind it round with three fold paper, and lay the
same over the top. Bake it four hours; and when it comes
out, melt two pounds of butter in the gravy that comes from
the hare, and pour it hot into the pie through a funnel. Close
it well up, and do not cut it in less than eight or ten days.
If the pie is to be sent to any distance, it will be necessary, in
order to prevent the air getting to it, to stop up the hole in the
middle of the lid with cold butter.
Yorkshire Gibkt Pie.
PUT a tea-cup full of grots into the blood of the goose
while it is warm, in order to swell them. Grate the crumb of
a penny loaf, and pour on it a gill of boiling milk. Shred half
a pound of beef suet very fine, chop four or five leaves of sage
and two leeks very small, put three yolks of eggs, and season
it to the taste with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Mix them all
PIES. 205
up together, and have ready the giblets well seasoned with
pepper and salt. Lay them round a deep dish, and put a
pound of fat beef over the pudding in the middle of the dish.
Pour in half a pint of gravy, lay on a good paste, and bake it
in an oven moderately heated.
Common GiLlet Pie.
CLF.AN two pair of giblets well, and put all but the livers
into the saucepan, with two quarts of water, twenty corns of
wlioie pepper, three blades of mace, a bundle of sweet herbs,
and a large onion. Cover them close, and let them stew very
slowly till they are quite tender. Have a good crust ready,
cover the dish, lay at the bottom a fine rump steak seasoned
with pepper and salt, put in the giblets with the livers, and
strain the liquor they were stewed in : season it with salt, and
pour it into the pie. Put on the lid, and bake it an hour and
a half.
Duck Pie.
TAKE two ducks, scald them, and make them very clean;
cut off the feet, the pinions, the neck, and head ; take out the
gizzards, livers, and hearts, and pick all clean, and scald
them. Pick out the fat of the inside, lay a good puff paste
crust all over the dish, season the ducks both inside and out
with pepper and salt$ and lay them in the dish, with the gib-
lets at each end properly seasoned. Put in as much water as
will nearly fill the pie, and lay on the crust.
Pigeon Pie.
LET the pigeons be very nicely picked and cleaned, and
season them with pepper and salt. Put a large piece of fresh
butter, with pepper and salt, into their bellies. Then cover
the dish with a puff paste crust, and lay in the pigeons, and
put between them the necks, gizzards, livers, pinions, and
hearts, with the yolk of a hard egg, and a beef steak in the
middle. Put as much water as will nearly fill the dish, and
lay on the top crust, and bake it well.
Savoury Chicken Pie.
TAKE small chickens and season them with pepper, salt, and
mace. Put a piece of butter into each of them, and lay them
in the dish with the breasts upwards. Lay a thin slice of
bacon over them, which will give them an agreeable flavour.
Then put in a pint of strong gravy, and make a good puff
paste. Put on the lid, and bake it in a moderately heated
oven
206-
Hare Pie,
CUT it into pieces, and season it with nutmeg, pepper, and
salt. Ju- it with half a pound of butter. It must do above
an hour, close covered in a pot of boiling water. Make force-
meat, to whiqh add the liver bruised, and a glass of red wine.
Let it be high seasoned, lay it round the inside of a raised
crust, put in the hare when cool; and add the gravy that
comes from it, with some more rich gravy. Put on the lid,
and bake it two hours.
Rabbit Pie to be eaten hot.
TAKE a couple of young rabbits, and cut them into quar-
ters; take a quarter of a pound of bacon, and bruise it to
pieces in a marble mortar, with the livers, some pepper, salt,
a little mace, and some parsley cut small, some chives, and a
few leaves of sweet basil. When these are all beaten fine,
make the paste, and cover the bottom of the pie with the sea-
soning. Then put in the rabbits, pound some more bacon in
a mortar, and with it some fresh butter; cover the rabbits
with it, and over that la}^ some thin slices of bacon. Put on
the lid, and send it to the oven. It will take t\ro hours bak-
ing. When it is done, take off the lid, take out the bacon,
and skim off the fat. If there is not gravy enough in the pie,
pour in some rich veal gravy boiling hot.
Partridge Pie to be eaten hot.
TAKE three brace of full-grown partridges, and let them be
trussed in the same manner as a fowl for boiling. Put into a
marble mortar shalots, some parsley cut small, the livers of
the partridges, and twice the quantity of bacon : beat these
together, and season them with pepper, salt, and a blade or
two of mace. When these are all pounded to a paste, add
to them some fresh mushrooms. Then raise the crust for the
pie, and cover the bottom of it with the seasoning; then lay
in the partridges, but no stuffing in them ; put the remainder
of the seasoning about the sides and between the partridges ;
then strew over them some pepper and salt, and a little mace,
some fresh mushrooms, and a little bacon, beat fine in a mor-
tar. Lay a layer of it over the partridges, and some thin slices
of bacon. Put on the lid. It will take two hours and a half
baking, When it is done, take off the lid and the slices of
bacon, arid skim off the fat. Put in a pint of rich veal gravy,
and squeeze in the juice of an orange.
t>IES. 207
Partridge Pie to be eaten cold.
TRUSS and beat the breasts of six or eight young partridges
very flat ; singe and broil them upon a stove over a very clear
charcoal fire. When they are cold, lard them ; beat some
bacon in a mortar, and mix it with the livers scalded and
bruised. Put some of this into the partridges. Then make a
seasoning with some sweet herbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, mace,
and some lemon peel shred very fine. Make a raised crust
for the pie, and lay upon it a little of the stuffing of the livers
of the partridges ; over that a little of the seasoning, and then
lay in the partridges ; strew some of the seasoning over them ;
then put among them some bits of butter, and a little bacon
cut very fine, with a few leaves of sweet basil, two or three
bay-leaves, a few fresh truffles. Lay these amongst the par-
tridges, and over them a few thin slices of bacon. Put on the
lid, and send it to the oven. It will take three hours baking ;
after which it must stand to be cold.
A Woodcock Pie to be eaten cold.
THE woodcock and partridge pie are made nearly alike, only
the entrails are made use of. When the woodcocks are picked,
put the entrails by, and truss them as for roasting. Make the
breast-bone flat, and broil them over some clear charcoal.
When they are cold, lard them all over; then pound some
bacon in a marble mortar, mix it with the livers of the wood-
cocks, which also bruise, with two or three leaves of sweet
basil. Cut the entrails very small, and mix them with the
other seasoning. Raise the pie, lay at the bottom some of the
stuffing, and put the rest into the birds, putting between them
some pounded bacon and fresh butter mixed together, with a
very little mace, pepper, and salt. When the pie is almost
filled, take a cutlet, cut quite round a fillet of veal, and over
that some slices of bacon cut very thin. Then put on the lid.
It should stand three or four hours, according to the quan-
tity of birds, and when it comes out of the oven, set it to
cool.
Savoury Patties.
TAKE a quarter of a pound of beef suet, and a pound of
the inside of a cold loin of veal, or the same quantity of cold
fowl that has been either boiled or roasted, and chop them as
small as possible with six or eight sprigs of parsley. Season
them with pepper and salt, and half a nutmeg finely grated.
Put them into a stewpan, with half a. pint of veal stock :
thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, and two
208
spoonsful of cream : shake them over the fire two or three
minutes, and fill the patties. The pattie* must be made in
this manner : Raise them of an oval form, and Lake them as
for custards. Cut some Ioi5g, narrow bits of paste, an-! bake
them on a dusting-box, bi:t not to go round, they being for
handles. Fill the patties when quite hot wi'h the meat, and
set on the handles across the patties, when they will look like
baskets.
Cheshire Pork Pie.
SKIN a loin of pork, and cut it into steaks. Season it with
pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and make a good crust. Put into
the dish a layer of pork, then a layer of pippins pared and
cored, and sugar sufficient to sweeten it. Then place another
layer of pork, and put in half a pint of white wine. Then
lay some butter on the top, and close the pie.
French Pie.
PUT three quarters of a pound of butter to two pounds of
flour, and make it into a paste, and raise the walls of the pie.
Then roll out some paste thin as for a lid, and cut it into vine-
leaves, or the figures of any moulds required. Beat the
yolks of two eggs, and rub the outside of the walls of the pie
with it, and lay the vine-leaves or other figures round the
walls, and rub them over with the eggs. Fill the pie with the
bones of the meat, to keep the steam in, that the crust may
be well soaked ; for it must have no lid on when it goes to
table. Then take a calf's head, wash and clean it well, and
boil it half an hour. When cold, cut it in thin slices, and put
it in a stewpan, with three pints of veal stock, and three sweet-
breads cut thin. Let it stew an hour, with half an ounce of
morels and the same quantity of truffles. Have ready two
calf's feet boiled and boned ; cut them into small pieces,
and put them into the stewpan, with a spoonful of lemon
pickle, one of browning, some cayenne, and a, little salt.
When the meat is tender, thicken the gravy a little with but-
ter and Hour: strain it, and put in a few pickled mushrooms,
but fresh ones are preferable, if they are to be had. Put the
meutJnto the pie out of which the bones were taken, and lay
the nicest part at the top. Have ready a quarter of a hundred
of asparagus heads, and strew them over the top of the pie,
having first poured in all the gravy.
Devonshire Squab Pie.
COVFR the dish with a good crust, and put at the bottom
of it a layer of sliced pippins, and then a layer of mutton
P1RS. 09
steaks cut from the loin, well seasoned with pepper and salt.
Then put another layer of pippins, peel some onions, and
slice them thin, and put a layer of them over the apples.
Then put a layer of mutton, and then pippins and onions.
Pour in a pint of water, close up the pie, and hake it.
Apple Pie.
HAVING put a good puff paste, crust round the edge of the
dish, pare and quarter the apples, and take out the cores :
lay a thick row of apples, and throw in half the sugar intended
to be put into the pie. Mince a little lemon peel fine, spread
it over the sugar and apples, and squeeze a little lemon over
them : scatter a few cloves over it, and lav on the rest of the
apples and sugar. Sweeten to the palate, and squeeze a little
more lemon. Boil the peeling of the apples and cores in
some water, with a blade of mace, till it. has a pleasing taste ;
strain it, and boil the syrup with a little sugar, till there is
but a small quantity left. Pour it into the pie, put on the
upper crust, and bake it. A little quince or marmalade may
be added. In the same manner a pear pie may be made, but
omit the quince. A liaison may be added to the pie when
cold.
Apple Tart.
HAVING scalded eight or ten large codlins, let them stand
till they are cold, and then skin them. Take the pulp, and
beat it as fine as possible with a spoon : mix the yolks of six
eggs, and the whites of four. Beat altogether very fine, put
in grated nutmeg, and sweeten it to the taste. "Melt some
good fresh butter, and beat it till of the consistence of fine
thick cream ; make a puff paste, and cover a tin pattypan
with it ; pour in the ingredients, but do not cover it with the
paste. Having baked it a quarter of an hour, slip it out of the
pattypan on a dish, and strew over it some sugar finely
beaten and sifted.
Codlin Pie.
PUT some small codlins into a clean pan with spring water,
lay vine-leaves on them, and cover them with a cloth wrap-
ped round the cover of the pan to keep in the steam. As
soon as they grow soft, peel them, and put them in the same
water with the vine-leaves. Hang them a great height over
the fire to green, and when of a fine colour, take them out of
the water, and put them into a deep dish, with as much pow-
der and loaf sugar as will sweeten them. Make the lid of
rich puff paste, and bake it. When it comes from the oven,
p
210 PIES.
take off the lid, and cut it in little pieces like sippets, and
stick them round the inside of the pie with the points up-
wards. Then add a liaison.
Potatoc Pie.
TAKE three pounds of potatoes, boil and peel them. Make
a good crust, and Jay it in your dish. Put half a pound of
butter at the bottom of it, and then lay in the potatoes.
Throw over them three tea-spoonsful of salt, and a small nut-
meg grated all over ; boil six eggs hard, chop them fine, and
scatter them over it, as also a tea-spoonful of pepper, and
add half a pint of white wine. Cover the pie, and bake it
half an hour, or till the crust is enough.
Artichoke Pie.
HAVING boiled twelve artichokes, take off the leaves and
chokes, and take the bottoms clear from the stalks. Make a
good puff paste crust, and lay a quarter of a pound of good
fresh butter all over the bottom of the pie. Then lay a row
of artichokes, strew a little pepper, salt, and beaten mace
over them, then another row, and strew the rest of the spice
over them. Put in a quarter of a pound more of butter in
little bits, take half an ounce of truffles and morels, and boil
them in a quarter of a pint of water. Pour the water into
the pie, cut the truffles and morels very small, and throw them
all over the pie : have ready twelve eggs boiled hard, of which
take only the hard yolks, and lay them over the pie. Pour
in a gill of white wine, cover the pie, and bake it. When the
crust is done, the pie will be enough. Four large blades of
mace, and twelve pepper-corns, with a tea-spoonful of salt,
will be sufficient.
Onion Pie.
PEEL some onions, and wash and pare some potatoes, and
cut them into slices ; also pare some apples, and slice them.
Make a good crust, cover the dish, and lay a quarter of a
pound of butter all over. Take a quarter of an ounce of
mace beaten fine, a nutmeg grated, a tea-spoonful of beaten
pepper, and three tea-spoonsful of salt. Mix altogether, and
strew some over the butter. Lay a layer of potatoes, a layer
of onions, a layer of apples, then a layer of eggs, and so on
till the pie is filled, strewing a little of the seasoning between
each layer, and i quarter of a pound of butter in bits, with
six spoonsful of water. Close the pie, and bake it an hour
and a half. A pound of potatoes, a pound of onions, a pound
of apples, and twelve eggs, will be sufficient.
PIES 211
Cherry Pie.
HAVING made a good crust, lay a little of it round the sides
of the dish, and throw sugar at the bottom. Then lay in the
fruit, and some sugar at the top. A few red currants put
along with the cherries make an agreeable addition. Then
put on the lid, and bake it in a slack oven. A plumb pit, or
gooseberry pie may be made in the same manner. If it is de-
sired that the fruit look red, let the pie stand a good while in
the oven after the bread is drawn. A custard eats very well
with a gooseberry pie.
Mince Pie.
TAKE a neat's tongue, and boil it two hours; then skin it,
and chop it as small as possible. Chop very small three
pounds of beef suet, the same quantity of good baking apples,
four pounds of currants clean washed, picked, and well dried
before the fire, a pound of jar raisins stoned and chopped
small, and a pound of powder sugar. Mix them all together
with half an ounce of mace, the same quantity of grated nut-
meg, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same quantity of
cinnamon, and a pint of French brandy. Make a rich puff
paste, and as the pattypans are filled, put in a little candied
citron and orange cut in little pieces. Put close down in a
pot what mincemeat is left, and cover it up ; but never put
any citron or orange to it till wanted for use.
Or, shred three pounds of suet very fine, and chopped as
small as possible. Take two pounds of raisins stoned, and
chopped as fine as possible ; two pounds of currants nicely
picked, washed, rubbed, and dried at the fire ; half a hundred
of fine pippins pared, cored, and chopped small ; half a
pound of fine sugar pounded fine ; a quarter of an ounce of
mace, the same quantity of cloves, and two large nutmegs, all
beat fine. ?Put all together into a great pan, and mix them well
together with half a pint of brandy, and the same quantity of
sack. Put it close down into a stone pan, and it will keep
good for months. If meat is approved of in the pies, take two
rounds of the inside of a sirloin of beef boiled, chopped as
fine as possible, and mixed with the rest; or a neat's tongue
parboiled, and treated as above directed.
Lent Mince Pie.
BOIL six eggs hard, and chop them fine ; take twelve pip-
pins pared and chopped small ; a pound of raisins of the
sun, stoned and chopped fine; a pound of currants, washed,
picked^ and rubbed clean; a large spoonful of sugar beat'
212 PIES.
finp, a quarter of an ounce of mace and cloves beat fine, an
ounce of citron, an ounce of can lied o.ange, both beat fine,
an 1 a little nutmeg beat fine. Mix ail together nva gill. of
brandy and a gill of sack. Make the crust good, and bake
it in a slack oven. Squeeze in the juice of a Seville orange.
I'orkshire Chris/mas Pie.
HAVING made a good standing crust, with the wall and
bottom very thick, take and bone a turkey, a goose, a fowl,
a partridge, and a pigeon. Season them well, and take half
an ounce of mace, the same quantity of nutmegs, a quarter
of an ounce of cloves, and half an ounce of black pepper, all
beat fine together. Then add two large spoonsful of salt :
mix all well together. Open the fowls all down the back, and
bone, first the pigeon, then the partridge, and cover them.
Then proceed in the same manner with the fowl, goose, and
turkey, which must be large. Season them all well, and then
lay them in the crust, so that it may look only like a whole
turkey. Then have a hare ready cased, and wiped with a
clean cloth. Disjoint the hare into pieces, season it, and lav-
it as clo e as possible on one side ; and on the other side put
woodcocks, moor-game, and any sort of wild fowl. Season
them well, and lay them close. Put at least four pounds of
butter into the pie, and then lay on the lid, which must be
very thick, and let it be well baked. It must have a very hot
oven, and will take four hours baking at least. This crust will
take a bushel of flour.
Shropshire Pie.
Cur two rabbits into pieces, with two pounds of fat pork
cut small, and season both with pepper and salt to the taste.
ThLMi m;;ke a good puff paste crust, cover the dish with it,
and lay in the rabbits Mix the pork with them ; but take
t':e livers of the rabbits, parboil them and beat them in a mor-
tar, with the same quantity of fat bacon, a little sweet herbs,
and some ovsters. Season them with pepper, salt, and nut-
meg, mix it up with the yolk of an egg, and make it up into
littl^ balls. Scatter them about the pie, with some articnoke
bottoms cut in dices, and some cock's-combs. Grate a small
nutmeg over the meat, then pour in half a pint of red wine,
ani :iaif a pint of second stock. Close the pie, and bake it an
hour and a half in a quick but not too fierce oven.
Fine Patties.
TAKE any quantity of either turkey, house-lamb, or chicken,
and slice it with an equal quantity of the fat of Jamb, loin of
PIES. 213
veal, or the inside of a sirloin of beef, and a little parsley,
thyme, and lemon peel shred. Put all into a marbie n;ortar,
pound it very line, and season it with salt and \vii;tr pepper.
Make a fine pun 1 ' paste, roll it nut in thin square sheet*, and
put the forcemeat in the middle. Cover tne pie, clo-^o it all
round, and cut the pasj;e even. Befo.e they are put into the
oven, wash them over with the yolk of an e^g, and bake
them twenty minutes in a quick oven. Have ready a little
white gravy, seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little eschalot,
thickened tip with a little cream or hutter. When the patties
come out of the oven, make a hole in the top, and pour in
some gravy; hut take care not to put in too much, lest it
should run out at the sides, which will spoil thu appearance
of them.
Olive Pie.
TAKE the thin coMops of the hest end of a leg of veal, in
quantity proportionate to the .size of the intended pie. Hack
them with the back of a knife, and season them with pepper,
salt, cloves, and mace. Wash over the collops with a bunch
of feathers dipped in eggs, and have in readiness a bunch of
sweet herbs shred small, such as thyme, parsley, and spinach.
Take the yolks of eight hard eggs minced, and a few oysters
parboiled and chopped, and some beef suet shred very fine.
Mix these together, and strew them over the collops. Then
sprinkle a little orange-flower water over them, and roll the
collops up very close. Then put the crust on the dish, lay
the collops in it, put butter on the top, and ciose the pie.
When it comes out of the oven, have ready some hot gravy,
with an anchovy dissolved in it, and pour it into the pie.
Egg Pit.
TAKE a pound of marrow, or beef suet, twelve eggs boiled
hard, and chop them very fine. Season them with a little
beaten cinnamon and nutmeg ; take a pound of currants
clean washed and picked, two or three spoonsful of cream,
and a little sack and rose-water. Mix all together, and fill
the pie with it. When it is baked, stir in half a pound of
fresh butter, and the juice of a lemon.
Sweet Egg Pie.
COVER the dish with a good crust, and then take twelve
eggs boiled hard, cut them into slices, and lay them in the
pie. Throw half a pound of currants, clean washed and
picked, all over the eggs. Then beat up four eggs well,
mixed with half a pint of white wine, grate in a small nut-
PIES.
meg, and make it pretty sweet with sugar. Remember to
lay a quarter of a pound of butter between the eggs, then
pour in the wine and eggs, and cover the pie. Bake it till the
crust js done, which will be in about half an hour.
Orange or Lemon Tarts.
RUB six large lemons well with salt, and put them into wa-
ter, with a handful of salt in it, for two days. Then change
them every day into fresh water, without salt, for a fortnight:
boil them for two or three hours till they are tender ; cut them
into half quarters, and then cut them three-corner ways as
thin as possible. Take six pippins pared, cored, and quar-
tered, and a pint of water. Let them boil till the pippins
break, put the liquor to the orange or lemon, half the pulp of
the pippins well broken, and a pound of sugar. Boil these
together a quarter of an hour, then put it into a bason, and
squeeze into it an orange. If a lemon tart, squeeze a lemon.
Two spoonsful are enough for a tart. Put very fine puff
paste, and very thin, into the pattypans, which must be small
and shallow. Just before the tarts are put into the oven,
with a feather or brush rub them over with melted butter,
and then sift double-refined sugar over them, which will form
a pretty icing.
Tart de Moi.
LAY round the dish a puff paste, and then a layer of bis-
cuit ; then a layer of butter and marrow, another of all sorts
of sweetmeats, and thus proceed till the dish is full : boil a
quart of cream, and thicken it with four eggs, and put in a
spoonful of orange-flower water. Sweeten it with sugar to
the palate, and pour it over the whole. Half an hour will
bake it.
Skirret Pie.
BOIL the skirrets tender, peel and slice them, and fill the
pie with them. To half a pint of cream take the yolk of an
egg, and beat it fine. Put to it a little grated nutmeg, a
little beaten mace, and a little salt. Beat all well together,
with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter melted, and pour
in as much as the dish will hold. Put on the top-crust, and
bake it half an hour. If cream cannot be put, add milk.
Turbot Pie.
WASH and parboil the turbot, and season it with a little
pepper, salt, cloves, mace, nutmeg, and sweet herbs cut fine.
N\ hen the paste is made, lay in the turbot, with some yolks,
PIES. 2 1 5
of eggs boiled hard, a whole onion, which must be taken
out when the pie is baked. Lay a great deal of fresh butter
on the top, and close it up. It is good cold or hot.
Tench Pie.
LAY a layer of butter at the bottom of the dish, then grate
in some nutmeg, with pepper, salt, and mace. Lay in the
tench, cover them with some butter, and pour in some red
wine and a little water. Then put on the lid, and when it
comes from the oven, pour in melted butter, with some gravy
in it.
Trout Pie.
LARD a brace of trout with eels ; raise the crust, and lay a
layer of fresh butter at the bottom. Then make a forced
meat of trout, mushrooms, truffles, morels, chives, and fresh
butter. Season them with salt, pepper, and spice; mix these
up with the yolks of two eggs; stuff the trout with this forced
meat, lay them in the pie, cover them with butter, put on the
lid, and send it to the oven. Have some good fish gravy ready
to pour into the pie when it is baked.
Eel Pie.
HAVING skinned and washed the eels very clean, cut them
in pieces an inch and a half long : season with pepper, salt,
and a little dried sage rubbed small, and raise the pies about
the size of the inside of a plate. Fill them with eels, and
lay a lid over them. Bake them well in a quick oven.
Carp Pie.
SCALE, gut, and wash, a large carp clean. Take an eel,
and boil it till almost tender, pick off all the meat, and mince
it fine, with an equal quantity of crumbs of bread, a few sweet
herbs, a lemon-peel cut fine, and a little pepper, salt, and grated
nutmeg ; an anchovy, half a pint of oysters parboiled and
chopped fine, and the yolks of three hard eggs cut small.
Roll it up with a quarter of a pound of butter, and fill the
belly of the carp. Make a good crust, cover the dish, and
lay in the carp. Save the liquor the eels were boiled in,
put into it the eel bones, and boil them with a little mace,
whole pepper, an onion, some sweet herbs, and an anchovy.
Boil till reduced to about half a pint, strain it, and add to it
about a quarter of a pint of white wine, and a piece of but-
ter about the size of a hen's egg mixed in a very little flour.
Boil it up, and pour it into the pie. Put on the lid, and bake
216 PIES.
it an hour m a quick oven. If there be any forcemeat left
after filling the belly of the carp make balls of it, and put it
into the pie. If there is not liquor enough, boil a few small
eels for that purpose.
Salt Fish Pie.
LAY a side of salt fish in water all night, and next morning
put it over the fire in a pan of water till tender. Drain it, and
lay it on the dresser; take off all the skin, and pick the meat
clean from the bones, and mince it small. Take the crumb
of two French rolls cut in slices, and boil it up with a quart of
new milk. Break the bread very fine with a" spoon, put it
to the minced salt fish, with a pound of melted butter, two
spoonsful of minced parsley, half a nutmeg grated, a little
beaten pepper, and three tea-spoonsful of mustard. Mix all
well together, make a good crust, lay it all over the dish, and
cover it up. Bake it an hour.
Sole Pie.
COVER the dish with a good crust, boil two pounds of eels
till they are tender, and pick all the flesh clean from the bones.
Throw the bones into the liquor the eels were boiled in, with a
little mace and salt, till it is very good, and reduced to a quar-
ter of a pint, and then strain it. In the meantime, cut the
flesh of the eel fine, with a little lemon-peel shred fine, a
little salt, pepper, and nutmeg, a few crumbs of bread, chop-
ped parsley, and an anchovy. Melt a quarter of a pound of
butter and mix with it, and then lay it in a dish. Cut the
flesh off a pair of large soles, or three pair of very small
ones, clean from the bones and fins. Lay it on the force-
meat, and pour in the liquor of the eels. Put on the lid of
the pie and bake it. Boil the bones of the soles with the eel
bones, to make it good ; but if the sole bones are boiled with
one or two little eels, without the forcemeat, the pie will be
very good. A turbot may be dressed in the same manner.
Flounder Pie.
HAVING gutted the flounders, wash them clean, and dry
them in a cloth. Just boil them, cut off the meat clean from
the bones, lay a good crust over the dish, and lay a little fresh
butter at the bottom, and on that the fish. Season with pep-
per and salt to your mind. Boil the bones in the water the
fish was boiled in, with a little bit of horse-radish, a little
parsley, a very little bit of lemon-peel, and a crust of bread.
Boil it till there is jnst enough liquor for the pie, then strain
it, and put it into the pie. Put on the top crust, and bake it.
PIES. 217
Herring Pie.
HAVING scaled, gutted, and v;ashed the herrings clean, cut
off their heads, fins, and tails. Make a good crust, cover the
dish, and season the herrings with beaten rnace, pepper, and
salt. Put a little butter in the bottom of the dish, and then
a row of herrings. Pare some apples, and cut them into thin
slices over the dish. Then peel some onions, and cut them
in the same manner. Lay a little butter on the top, put in a
little water, lay on the lid, and bake it well.
Salmon Pie.
HAVING made a good crust, cleanse a piece of salmon well,
season it with salt, mace, and nutmeg, lay a piece of butter
at the bottom of the dish, and lay the salmon in. Melt but-
ter according to the pie. Take a lobster, boil it, pick out all
the flesh, chop it small, bruise the body, and mix it well with
the butter, which must be very good. Pour it over the sal-
mon, put on the lid, and bake it well.
Lobster Pic.
BOIL two or three lobsters, take the meat out of their tails
whole, and cut them in four pieces longways. Take out all
the spawn, and the meat of the claws ; beat it well in a mor-
tar, and season it with pepper, salt, iwo spoonsful of vine-
gar, and a little anchovy liquor. Melt half a pound of fresh
butter, and stir all together, with the crumbs of a halfpenny
roll rubbed through a fine cullender, and the yolks of two
eggs. Put a fine puff paste over the dish, lay in the tails,
and the rest of the meat over them. Put on the cover, and
bake it in a slow oven.
Muscle Pie.
HAVING laid a good crust all over the dish, wash the muscles
clean in several waters; then pu f them into a deep stewpan,
cover them, and let them stew till they open : pick them out,
and see there are no crabs under the tongue. Put them into
a saucepan, with two or three blades of mace (strain liquor
just enough to cover them), a good piece of butter, and a
few crumbs of bread. Stew them a few minutes, fill the pie,
put on the lid, and bake it half an hour. Always let the fish
be cold before the lid is put on, or it will spoil the crust.
Oyster pie may be made in the same manner.
218 PANCAKES AND FRITTERS.
CHAPTER XIX.
PANCAKES AND FRITTERS.
Cream Pancakes.
JMix the yolks of two eggs with half a pint of cream, two
ounces of sugar, and a little beaten cinnamon, mace, and
nutmeg; rub the pan with lard, and fry them as thin as pos-
sible : grate sugar over them.
Milk Pancakes.
PUT six or eight eggs, leaving out half the whites, into a
quart of milk, and mix them well till the batter is of a fine
thickness : observe to mix the flour first with a little milk,
then add the rest by degrees. Put in two spoonsful of beaten
ginger, a glass of brandy, and a little salt. Stir all together,
and make the frying-pan very clean. Put in a piece of but-
ter of the size of a walnut, and then put in a ladleful of bat-
ter, which will make a pancake, moving the pan round, so
that the batter may be every where even alike in the pan ;
when that side is enough, toss it or turn it cleverly without
breaking it. When done, lay it in a dish before the fire,
and proceed to do the rest in like manner. Strew a little
sugar over them, and take care that they are dry.
Rice Pancakes.
TAKE three spoonsful of flour of rice, and a quart of
cream ; set it on a slow fire, and keep stirring it till as thick
as pap: pour into it half a pound of butter and a nutmeg
grated : pour it into an earthern pan, and when cold, stir in
three or four spoonsful of flour, a little salt, some sugar, and
nine eggs well beaten ; mix all well together, and fry them
nicely. When cream is not to be had, use new milk, and a
spoonful more of the Hour of rice.
Custard Fritters.
Beat the yolks of eight eggs with one spoonful of flour,
half a nutmeg, a little salt, and brandy, add a pint of cream ;
sweeten it, and bake in a small dish. When cold, cut it into
quarters ; dip them in batter made of half a pint of cream, a
quarter of a pint of milk, four eggs, a little flour, and a little
PANCAKES AND FRITTEUS. 219
ginger grated. Fry them a little brown, in good lard or drip-
ping. Grate sugar over them, and serve them up hot
Common Fritters.
GET the largest baking-apples, pare them, and take out the
core with an apple-scraper; cut them in round slices, and dip
them in batter made thus : take half a pint of ale and two
eggs-, and beat in as much flour as will make it rather thicker
than a common pudding, with nutmeg and sugar to the taste.
Let it stand three or four minutes to rise. Having dipped the
apples into this batter, fry them crisp, and serve them up
with sugar grated over them, and wine sauce in a boat.
Fine Fritters.
TAKE some of the finest flour, and dry it well before the
fire : mix it with a quart of new milk, but take care not to
make it too thick. Put to it six or eight eggs, a little
nutmeg, mace, and salt, and a quarter of a pint of sack or
ale, or a glass of brandy. Beat them well together, then
make them pretty thick with pippins, boiled and pulped
through a sieve, and fry them dry.
White Fritters.
WASH at least an ounce of rice in five or six different wa-
ters, and dry it well before the fire. Then beat it very fine
in a mortar, and sift it through a lawn sieve: put it into a
saucepan, just wet it with milk, and when well incorporated
with it, add to it another pint of milk. Set the whole over
a stove, or a very slow fire, and take care to keep it always
moving : add a little ginger, and some candied lemon-peel
grated. Keep it over the fire till it almost come to the thick-
ness of a fine paste, flour a peal, pour it on it, and spread it
out with a rolling-pin. When cold, cut it into little morsels,
taking care that they do not stick one to the other. Roll up the
fritters handsomely, and fry them. Serve them up with sugar
over them, and pour over them a little orange-flower water.
A Quire of Paper.
TAKE three spoonsful of fine flour, a pint of cream, sijf
eggs, three spoonsful of sack, one of orange-flower water, a
little sugar, half a nutmeg grated, and half a pound of melted
butter almost cold. Mix all well together, and butter the pan
for the first pancake. Let them run as thin as possible, and
when they are just coloured, they will be enough. In this
manner all the fine pancakes should be fried.
220 PANCAKES AND FRITTERS.
Almond Froze.
STEEP a pound of Jordan almonds blanched, in a pint of
cream, ten yolks of eggs, and four whites : take out the al-
monds, and pound them fine in a mortar ; mix them again in
the cream and eggs, and put in some sugar and grated white
bread : stir them all together, put some fresh butter into the
pan, and as soon as it is hot, pour in the batter, stirring it in
the pan till of a good thickness. When enough, turn it into
a dish, and throw sugar over it.
Fritters Royal.
PUT a quart of new milk into a saucepan, and when it be-
gins to boil, pour in a pint of sack : take it off, ]et it stand
five or six minutes, skim off the curd, and put it into a bason.
Beat it up well with six eggs, and season it with nutmeg.
Then beat it with a whisk, and flour sufficient to give it the
usual thickness of batter, put in some sugar, and fry them
quick.
Currant Fritters without Eggs.
TAKE half a pint of ale that is not bitter, and stir into it
flour to make it pretty thick, with a few currants. Beat this
up quick : have the lard boiling ; throw in a large spoonful at
a time.
Raspberry Fritters.
GRATE the crumb of a French roll, or two Naples biscuits;
put to either a pint of boiling cream : when this is cold, add
to it the yolks of four eggs well beaten. Beat all well together
with some raspberry juice; drop them into a pan of boiling
lard, in very small quantities. Stick them with blanched al-
monds sliced.
Tansy Fritters.
Pouu a pint of boiling milk on the crumb of a penny loaf
grated. When cold, add a spoonful of brandy, sugar to the
taste, the rind of half a lemon, the yolks of four eggs, and
spinach and tansy juice to colour it. Mix this over the fire,
with a quarter of a pound of butter, till thick. Let it stand
near three hours, and drop it, a spoonful to a fritter, ii to
boiling lard.
Rice Fritters.
BOIL a quarter of a pound of rice in milk till it is pretty
thick ; then mix it with a pint of cream, four eggs, some
PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. 221
sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg ; six ounces of currants washed
and picked, a little salt, and as much flour as will make it a
thick batter. Fry them in little cakes in boil.ng lard. Serve
them with white sugar and butter.
Carrot Fritters,
TAKK two or three boiled carrots, beat them wit'i a spoon,
and pulp them through a sieve. Put to every carrot svo or
three eggs ; a little nutmeg; to three carrots pur a h..miful of
flour ; wet them with cream, milk, or sack, and ad. I to Mem
as much sugar as will sweeten them. Beat them well half an
hour, and fry them in boiling lard. Squeeze over them a
Seville orange, and shake some fine sugar over them.
German Fritters.
TAKE some well-tasted crisp apples, pare, quarter, and
core them ; take the core quite out, and cut them into ror,'id
pieces: put into a stewpan a quarter of a pint of Fre-ch
brandy, a table spoonful of fine sugar pounded, an.; I ^le
cinnamon. Put the apples into this liquor, and set tuem over
a very gentle fire, stirring them often, but not to break t ijem.
Set on a stewpan with some lard. When it boils dnu.i the
apples, dip them in some fine flour, and put them into the
pan; they will be brown and very good. Strew som s;!gar
over a dish, and set it on the fire; lay in the fritters, strew a
little sugar over them, and glaze them over with a red-hot
salamander.
Bilboquet Fritters.
BREAK five eggs into two handsful of fine flour, and put
milk enough to make it work well together; then put in some
salt, and work it again. When it is well maJe, put a tea-
spoonful of powder of cinnamon, the same quantity of lemon-
peel grated, and half an ounce of candied citron cut very
small with a penknife. Put on a stewpan, nib it over with
butter, and put in the paste. Set it over a very gentle fi'e on
a stove, and let it be done very gently, without sticking to the
bottom or sides of the pan. When it is in a manner baked,
take it out and lay it on a dish. Set on a stewpan witii a
large quantity of lard ; when it boils cut the paste t^e size of
a finger, and then cut it across at each end, which wid rise
and be hollow, and have a very good eil'ect. Put them into
the boiling lard, but great care must be taken in frying them,
as they rise so much. When they are done, sift some sugar
on a warm dish, lay on the fritters, and sift some more sugar
over them.
222 PANCAKES AND FRITTERS.
Point du Jour Fritters.
TAKE a glass of mountain, and a large spoonful of brandy.
Mix two handsful of flour with some warm milk, and the
brandy and wine, and work it into a paste. Beat up the white
of four eggs to a froth, and mix them with the batter. Then
add to them half an ounce of candied citron-peel, half an
ounce of fresh lemon-peel grated, some salt and sugar. Let
it be all well beat up together ; then set on a small deep stew-
pan, with a good quantity of hog's lard, and when it is boil-
ing hot, drop in some of the batter through a tin funnel made
on purpose, with a large body and three pipes. Hold the
funnel over the boiling lard, and pour the batter through it
with a ladle. It must be kept moving over the pan till all is
run out, and this, from the three streams, shapes the fritters.
When the batter is all out, turn the fritters, for they are soon
brown. Then put one at a time upon a rolling pin, and they
will be the shape of a rounded leaf, which is the proper shape
of these fritters. Great nicety is required in making them ;
but they are an elegant dish. When the first is made, it
should be a pattern for the rest. If too thick, pour in the less
batter for the next ; and if too thin, a little more.
Chicken Fritters.
PUT on a stewpan with some new milk, and as much flour
of rice as will be necessary to make it of a tolerable thickness.
Beat three or four eggs, the yolks and whites together, and
mix them well with the rice and milk. Add to them a pint
of rich cream, set over a stove, and stir it well. Put in some
powdered sugar, some candied lemon-peel cut small, and
some fresh-grated lemon-peel cut very small. Then take all
the white meat from a roasted chicken, pull it into small
shreds, put it to the rest of the ingredients, and stir it all to-
gether. Then take it off", and it will be a very rich paste.
Roll it out, cut it into small fritters, and fry them iu boiling
lard. Strew the bottom of the dish with sugar finely powdered.
Put in the fritters, and shake some sugar over them.
Hasty Fritters.
PUT some butter into a stewpan, and let it heat. Take
half a pint of good ale, and stir into it by degrees a little flour.
Put in a few currants, or chopped apples, beat them up quick,
and drop a large spoonful at a time all over the pan. Take
care that they do not stick together, turn them with an e<rg-
shce, and when they are a fine brown, lay them on a dish, and
throw some sugar over them.
PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. 223
Fritters.
HAVING beat the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of
four well together, strain them into a pan : take a quart of
cream, and make it scalding hot : add a quarter of a pint
of sack, three quarters of a pint of ale, and make a posset of
it. When cool, put it to the eggs, beating it well together.
Then put in salt, ginger, nutmeg, and flour. Having made
the batter pretty thick, put in pippins sliced or pared, and
fry them quick in a good deal of batter.
Curd Fritters.
TAKE a handful of curds and a handful of flour, and ten
eggs well beaten and strained ; some sugar, cloves, mace, and
nutmeg beaten, and a little saffron. Stir all well together and
fry them quick, and of a fine light brown.
Skirret Fritters.
To a pint of pulp of skirrets add a spoonful of flour, the
yolks of four eggs, sugar and spice. Make them into a thick
batter, and fry them quick.
Syringed Fritters.
To a pint of water add a piece of butter of the size of an
egg, with some lemon-peel, rasped preserved lemon-peel,
and crisped orange-flowers. Put all together in a stewpan
'over the fire, and, when boiling, throw in some fine flour.
Keep it stirring, put more flour in by degrees, till the batter is
thick enough, and then take it off the fire. Take an ounce
of sweet almonds, four bitter ones, and pound them in a
mortar. Stir in two Naples biscuits crumbled, and two eggs
beaten. Stir all together, and put in more eggs till the bat-
ter is thin enough to be syringed. Fill the syringe, the bat-
ter being hot, then syringe the fritters in it, to make it of a
true-lover's-knot, and being well coloured, serve them up for
a side dish. Or, rub a sheet of paper with butter, over which
syringe the fritters, and make them of the required shape :
the butter being hot, turn the paper upside down over it, and
the fritters will easily drop off". When fried, strew them with
sugar, and glaze them.
Vine-leaf Fritters.
HAVING procured some of the smallest vine-leaves, and
having cut otf the great stalks, put them into a dish with
224- PANCAKES AND FRITTERS.
some French brandy, green lemon rasped, and some sugar.
Take a good handful of fine flour, mixed with white wine or
ale: let the batter be hot, and with a spoon drop it in, and
take great care that they do not stick to each other. On each
fritter lay a leaf, then fry them quick, and strew sugar over
them. Glaze them with a salamander.
>
Clary Fritters.
CUT off the stalks of the clary leaves, and dip them one by
one in a batter made with milk and flour. The batter being
hot, fry them quick.
PART IL
CHAPTER I.
PICKLING.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
IT is an essential point with the housekeeper, to take care
never to be without pickles of her own preparing, that she
may not be obliged to purchase them at shops, where they
are often badly prepared, and made to please the eye by the
use of pernicious ingredients. It is too common a practice to
make use of brass utensils, in order to give the pickles a fine
green ; but the same purpose might be effected by heating
the liquor, and keeping it in a proper degree of warmth on the
hearth or the chimney corner. By this method you would
avoid the pernicious consequence of the use of brass utensils,
or of verdigris of any kind, which are in their nature a very
powerful poison. Stone jars are undoubtedly the best for
keeping all sorts of pickles ; for, though they are expensive
on the first purchase, yet they will, in the end, be found
much cheaper than earthen vessels, through which, it has
been found by experience, salt and vinegar will penetrate,
especially when put in hot. When you take any pickle out
of your jars, be sure never to do it wrth your fingers, as that
will spoil your pickle ; but always make use of a spoon for
that purpose. We shall now proceed to give an account of
the different kind of spices made use of in pickling, as well as
of vinegars, &c. &c.
Pepper:
OF every kind, should be kept ground, in bottles withglas?
stoppers the whole pepper in jars, tied over with bladder.
22$ PICKLING.
Ginger, Cloves, Nutmegs, Mace, Cinnamon, and Allspice^
should be treated, as directed for Pepper.
Common Vinegar.
PUT as many pounds of coarse Lisbon sugar as gallons of
water; boil it, and skim it as long as any scum will rise:
then put it into tubs, and when it is as cold as beer to work,
toast a large piece of bread, and rub it over with yeast. Let
it work twenty-four hours ; then have ready a vessel, iron-
hooped, and well painted, fixed in a place where the sun has
full power, and fix it so as not to have any occasion to move
it. When it is drawn off, fill the vessels, and lay a tile on the
bung-hole to keep the dust out. Make it in March, and it
will be fit to use in. June or July. Then draw it off into little
stone bottles, let it stand till wanted for use, and it will never
be foul any more ; but should it not be sour enough, let it
stand a month longer before it is drawn off.
Elder-Flower Vinegar.
PUT two gallons of strong vinegar to a peck of the peeps
of elder flowers, and so in proportion for any greater quan-
tity. Set it in the sun in a stone jar for a fortnight, and then
filter it through a flannel bag. When it is drawn off, put it
into small bottles, in which it will preserve its flavour better
than in large ones. In mixing the flowers and the vinegar
together, be careful not to drop any of the stalks among the
peeps.
Gooseberry Vinegar.
CIIUSH the ripest gooseberries in a tub, and to every peck
of gooseberries put two gallons of water. Mix them well to-
gether, and let them work for three weeks. Stir them up
three or four times a day, then strain the liquor through a hair
sieve, and put to every gallon a pound of brown sugar, a
pound of treacle, a spoonful of fresh barm, and let it work
three or four days in the sanxj tub well washed. Run it into
iron-hooped barrels, let it stand twelve months, and then draw
it into bottles for use. This is far superior to white-wine
vinegar.
Tarragon Vinegar.
STRIP off the leaves of tarragon just as it is going into
bloom, and to every pound of leaves put a gallon of strong
white-wine vinegar in a stone jug, to ferment for a fortnight-
PICKLING. 227
Then fun it through a flannel bag, and to every four gallons
of vinegar put half an ounce of isinglass dissolved in cyder.
Mix it well, put it into large bottles, and let it stand a month
to fine. Then rack it off into pint bottles, and use it as it is
wanted.
Sugar Vinegar.
To six gallons of water put nine pounds of brown suo-ar,
and so in proportion for any greater quantity. Boil it for a
quarter of an hour, and put it lukewarm into a tub. Put to it
a pint of new barm, and let it work four or five days. Stir it
up three or four times a day, then turn it into a clean iron-
hooped barrel, and set it in the sun. If made in February, it
will be fit for use in August. It may be used for most sorts of
pickles, except mushrooms and walnuts. This is nearly the
same as that mentioned under the title of Common Vinegar.
Cucumbers, catted Gerkins.
THE cucumbers must be as free from spots as possible, and
of the smallest size. Put them into strong salt arid water for
nine or ten days, or till they are quite yellow, and stir them
twice a day at least, or they will grow soft. When perfectly
yellow, pour the water from them, and cover them with plenty
of vine leaves. Set the water over the fire, and when it boils
pour it upon them, and set them upon the hearth to keep
warm : when the water is nearly cold, make it boiling hot
again, and pour it upon them. Proceed in this manner till
they are of a fine green, which they will be in four or five
times. Be careful to keep them well covered with vine
leaves, with a cloth and dish over the top to keep in the steam,
Avhich will help to green them the sooner.
When greened, put them in a hair sieve to drain, and make
the following pickle for them : To every two quarts of white
wine vinegar, put a quarter of an ounce of mace, ten OF
twelve cloves, an ounce of ginger cut into slices, the same
of black pepper, and a handful of salt : boil all together for
five minutes, pour it hot upon the pickles, and tie them down
with a bladder for use. A clove of garlic may be added.
Cucumbers in Slices.
SLICE some large cucumbers before they are too ripe, and
put them into an earthen pan. To every dozen of cucum-
bers, slice two large onions, putting a handful of salt between
every row: cover them with a dish, and let them stand
twenty-four hours : put them into a cullender, and let them
Q 2
228 PICKLING.
dry well ; put them into a jar, cover them over with white-
wine vinegar, and let them stand four hours : pour the vine-
gar from them into a saucepan, and boil it with a little salt,
mace, whole pepper, a large race of ginger sliced, and then
pour on them the boiling vinegar. Cover them close, and
when they are cold, tie them down, and if wanted for use in
a few days, reboil the vinegar.
Walnuts pickled black.
YOUR Avalnuts must be taken from the tree before the shell
is hard, which may be known by running a pin into them,
and always gather them when the sun is hot upon them. Put
them into strong salt and water for nine days, and stir them
twice a day, observing to change the salt and water every
three days. Then put them into a hair sieve, and let them
stand in the air till they turn black. Put them into strong
stone jars, and pour boiling vinegar over them. Cover them
up, and let them stand till cold. Then give the vinegar three
more boilings, pour it each time on the walnuts, and let it
stand till cold between every boiling. Then tie them down
with paper and a bladder over them, and let them stand two
months. Having stood that time, take them out of the vine-
gar, and make for them the following pickle : To every two
quarts of vinegar, put a quarter of an ounce of mace, a dram
of cloves ; of olacK pepper, of Jamaica pepper, ginger, and
long pepper, an ounce each, and two ounces of common salt.
Boil ten minutes, pour it hot on the walnuts, and tie them
down, covered with paper, and a bladder. This quantity of
spice, is intended for three hundred walnuts.
Walnuts pickled white.
HAVING procured a sufficient quantity of walnuts of the
largest size, and taken the above precautions that their shells
are not hard, pare them very thin till the white appear, and
throw them into spring-water, with a handful of salt. Let
them stand in that water for six hours, and put a thin board
upon them to keep them under the water. Then set on a
stewpan, with some clean spring-water on a charcoal fire.
Take the nuts put of the water, put them into the stewpan,
and let them simmer four or five minutes, but not boil : have
ready a pan of spring-water, with a handful of white salt in it,
stir it till the salt is melted, take the nuts out of the stewpan
with a wooden ladle or spoon, and put them into the cold
water and salt. Let them stand a quarter of an hour, with the
board lying on them to keep them down as before ; for if
they are not kept under the liquor they will turn black.
PICKLING. 129
Then lay them on a cloth, and cover them with another to
dry ; carefully rub them with a soft cloth, and put them into
the jar, with some blades of mace and nutmeg sliced thin.
*Mix the spice between the nuts, and pour distilled vinegar
over them. When the jar is full of nuts, pour mutton fat
over them, and tie them close down with a bladder and lea-
ther, to keep out the air.
Walnuts pickled of an Olive-colour.
HAVING gathered the walnuts with the same precautions as
above directed, put them into strong vinegar, and tie them
down under a bladder and paper to keep out the air. Let
them stand twelve months, then take them out of the vine-
gar, and make for them a pickle of strong vinegar. To every
quart, put half an ounce of Jamaica pepper, the same of long
pepper, a quarter of an ounce of mace, the same of cloves, a
head of garlic, and a little salt. Boil them all together five
or six minutes, and then pour it upon the walnuts. As it gets
cold, boil it again three times, and pour it on the walnuts.
Tie them down with a bladder and paper over it ; and if your
vinegar be good, they will keep several years, without either
turning colour or growing soft.
Walnuts pickled green.
FOR this purpose, make choice of the large double or
French walnuts, gathered before the shells are hard. Wrap
them singly in vine leaves, put a few vine leaves in the bot-
tom of the jar, and nearly fill it with walnuts. Take care that
they do not touch. one another, and put a good many leaves
over them. Then fill your jar with good vinegar, cover them
close that the air cannot get in, and let them stand for three
weeks. Pour the vinegar from them, put fresh leaves on the
bottom of another jar, take out the walnuts, and wrap them
separately in fresh leaves, as quickly as possible. Put them
into the jar with a good many leaves over them, and fill it
with white-wine vinegar. Let them stand three weeks, pour
off the vinegar, and wrap them as before with fresh leaves at
the bottom and top of the jar. Take fresh white-wine vine-
gar, put salt in it till it will bear an egg, and add to it mace,
cloves, nutmeg and garlic. Boil it about eight minutes, and
then pour it on the walnuts. Tie them close with paper and
a bladder, and set them by for use.
Kidney Beans,
PUT some young and small beans into a strong salt and
water for three days, stirring them two or three times each
23.O PICKLING.
day. Then put them into a pan, with vine leaves both under
and over them, and pour on the.n the same water they came
out of. Cover them close, and set them over a very slow fire
till they are of a very fine green. Put them into a hair sieve
to drain, and make a pickle for them of white-wine vinegar.
Boil it five or six minutes with a little mace, Jamaica pep-
per, long pepper, and a race or two of ginger sliced, pour it
hot upon the beans, and tie them down with a bladder and
paper.
Mangoes.
CUCUMBERS used for this purpose must be of the largest
sort, and taken from the vines before they are too ripe, oryel-
low at the ends. Cut a piece out of the side, and take out
the seeds with an apple -scraper, or a tea-spoon. Then put
them into very strong salt and water for eight or nine days,
or till they are very yellow. Stir them well two or three
times each day, and put them into a pan with a large quan-
tity of vine leaves both over and under them. Beat a little
ailum very fine and put it into the salt and water they came
out of. Pour it on the cucumbers, and set it upon a very
slow fire for four or five hours, till they are pretty green :
take them out, and drain them in a hair sieve, and when cold,
put to them a little horse-radish, then mustard-seed, two or
three heads of garlic, a few pepper-corns, a few green cu-
cumbers sliced in small pieces, then horse-radish, and the
same as before-mentioned, till they are filled. Take the
piece cut out from the side, and sew it on with a large needle
and thread, and do all the rest in the same manner. Have
ready the following pickle : To every gallon of vinegar put a
quarter of an ounce of mace, the same of cloves, two ounces
of sliced ginger, the same of long pepper, Jamaica pepper,
and black pepper ; three ounces of mustard-seed tied up in a
bag, four ounces of garlic, and a stick of horse-radish cut in
slices. Boil them five minutes in the vinegar, then pour it
upon the pickles, tie them down, and keep them for use.
Codlins.
Youn codlins must be gathered when they are about the
size of a large French walnut. Put them into a pan with a
great many vine-leaves at the bottom, and cover them well
with the vine-leaves. Set them over a very slow fire till the
skin will peel, and take them carefully up in a hair sieve ; t
peel them with a pen-knife, and put them into the same pot
again, with the vine-leaves and water as before. Cover them
PICKLING. 231
close, and set them over a slow fire till they are of a fine
green : drain them through a hair sieve, and when C9ld, put
them into distilled vinegar. Pour a little mutton fat on the
top, and with a bladder and paper tie them down close.
Golden Pippins.
HAVING procured fine pippins, free from spots and bruises,
put them into a preserving-pan, with cold spring water, and
set them on a' charcoal fire. Keep them stirring with a
wooden spoon, till they will peel, but do not let them boil.
When enough, peel them, and put them into the water again,
with a quarter of a pint of the best vinegar, and a quarter of
an ounce of alum. Cover them close, and set them on the
charcoal fire again, but do not let them boil. Let them stand,
turning them now and then, till they look green : then take
them out, and lay them on a cloth to cool. When cold, put
to them the following pickle : To every gallon of vinegar put
two ounces of mustard seeds, two or three heads of garlic, a
good deal of ginger sliced, half an ounce of cloves, a dram of
mace and nutmeg. Mix the pickle well together, pour it over
the pippins, and cover them close,
Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots,
MUST be gathered when they are at their full growth, and
just before they turn ripe, and be sure that they are not
bruised. Take as much spring water as will cover them, and
make it salt enough to bear an egg, for which purpose use
an equal quantity of bay and common salt: lay in the peaches,
and put a thin board over them to keep them under the water.
Let them stand three days, then take them out, wipe them
.very carefully with a fine soft cloth, and lay them in the jar.
Then take as much white-wine vinegar as will fill the jar,
and to every gallon put one pint of the best well made mus-
tard, two or three heads of garlic, a good deal of ginger
sliced, and two drams of cloves, mace, and nutmegs. Mix
the pickle well together, and pour it over the peaches. Tie
them up close, and they will be fit to eat in two months. Nec-
tarines and apricots are pickled in the same manner.
Berberries.
HAVING procured berberries that are not over ripe, pick
off the leaves and dead stalks, and put them into jars, with a
large quantity of strong salt and water, and tie them down
with a bladder. When a scum rises, put them into fresh salt
and water, but they need no vinegar, their own sharpness being
fully sufficient to preserve them.
2Sf PICKLINO.
Radish Pods.
PUT the radish pods, which must be gathered when they
are quite young, into salt and water all night : boil the salt
and water they were laid in, pour it upon the pods, and cover
the jar close to keep in the steam. When it is nearly cold,
make it boiling hot, and pour it on again, and keep doing so
till the pods are quite green. Then put them into a sieve to
drain, and make a pickle for them of white-wine vinegar,
with a little mace, ginger, long pepper, and horse-radish.
Pour it boiling hot upon the pods, and when it is almost
cold, make the vinegar twice as hot as before, and pour it
upon them. Tie them down with a bladder, and put them
by for use.
-Beet Roots.
BOIL the roots till tender, take off the skins, cut them in
slices, gimp them in the shape of wheels, or any other form,
and put them into a jar. Take as much vinegar as will cover
them, and boil it with a little mace, a race of ginger sliced,
and a few slices of horse-radish. Pour it hot upon the roots,
and tie them down.
Parsley pickled green.
MAKE a strong salt and water that will bear an egg, and
throw into it a large quantity of curled parsley. Let it stand
a week, then take it out to drain, make a fresh-salt and water
as before, and let it stand another week. Drain it well, put it
into spring water, and change it three days successively.
Then scald it in hard water till it becomes ^reen, take it out
and drain it quite dry, and boil a quart of distilled vinegar a
few minutes, with two or three blades of mace, a nutmeg
sliced, and a shalot or two. When quite cold, pour it on the
parsley, with two or three slices of horse-radish, and keep it
for use.
Elder Buds.
HAVING procured elder buds, gathered when thev are about
the size of hop buds, put them into strong salt and water for
nine days, and stir them two or three times a day. Then put
them into a pau, cover them with vine-leaves/ and pour on
them the water they came out of. Set them over a slow fire
till they are quite green, and then make a pickle for them
of vinegar, a little mace, a few shalots, and some ginger
PICKLING. 233
sliced. Boil them two or three minutes, and pour it upon
the buds. Tie them down, and keep them in a dry place foi 1
use.
Elder Shoots,
PUT the elder shoots, which must be gathered when they
are of the thickness of a pipe shank, into salt and water all
night. Then put them into stone jars in layers, and between
every layer strew a little mustard seed, scraped horse-radish,
a few shalots, a little white beet-root, and a cauliflower pulled
into small pieces. Then pour boiling vinegar upon them, and
scald them three times. Keep in a dry place, with a leather
tied over them.
Nasturtiums.
PUT the nasturtium berries, which must be gathered soon
after the blossoms are gone off, into cold salt and water, and
change the water for three days successively. Make the pickle
of white-wine vinegar, mace, nutmeg sliced, shalots, pepper-
corns, salt and horse-radish. The pickle must be made pretty
strong, as it must not be boiled. When the berries are drained,
put them into ajar, and pour the pickle to them.
Grapes.
LET the grapes be of their full growth, but not ripe. Cut
them into small bunches fit for garnishing, and put them into
a stone jar with vine-leaves between every layer of grapes :
take spring water,- as much us will cover them, put into it a
pound of bay-salt, and as much white salt.as will make it bear
an egg. Dry the bay-salt and pound it before it is added,
as that will make it melt the sooner. Put it into a pot, and
boil and skim it well; but take off only the black scum. When
it has boiled a quarter of an hour, let it stand to cool and
settle ; and when almost cold pour the clear liquor on the
grapes, lay vine-leaves on the top, tie them down close with
a linen cloth, and cover them with a dish. Let them stand
twenty-four hours, then take them out, lay them on a cloth,
cover them over with another, and let them dry between the
cloths. Then take two quarts of vinegar, a quart of spring
water, and a pound of coarse sugar. Let ic boil a little,
skim it very clean as it boils, and let it stand till quite cold.
Dry the jar with a cloth, put fresh vine-leaves at the bottom,
and between every bunch of grapes and on the top. Then
pour the clear of the pickle on the grapes, fill the jar that the
pickle may be above the grapes, and having tied a thin piece
of board in a piece of flannel, lay it on the top of the jar, to
PICKLING.
keep the grapes under the liquor. Tie them down with a
blaoder and a leather, and when wanted for use, take them
out with a wooden spoon.
Cauliflowers.
PULL the whitest and closest cauliflowers into bunches, and
spread them on an earthen dish. Lay salt all over them, and
let them stand for three days to bring out all the water. Then
put them into jars, and pour boiling salt and water upon them.
Let them stand! all night, then drain them into a hair sieve, and
put them into glass jars. Fill up the jars with distilled vine-
gar, and tie them down close.
Red Cabbage.
HAVING sliced the cabbage cross-ways, put it on an earthen
dish, and sprinkle a handful of salt over it. Cover it with ano-
ther dish, and let it stand twenty-four hours. Then put it into
a cullender to drain, and lay it into the jar. Take white-wine
vinegar enough to cover it, a little cloves, mace, and allspice.
Put them in whole, with a little cochineal bruised fine. Then
boil it up, and put it hot on the cabbage. Cover it close with
a cloth till cold, and tie it up close.
Indian Pickle, or Piccalillo.
TAKE large fresh cauliflowers in the month of July, pick
them in small pieces, take also white cabbages cut in half
quarters, whole French beans, heads of celery, heads of as-
paragus scraped, onions whole and sliced, pickling melons
peeled thin and cut in halves, and wash them clean : put them
into a pan with plenty of salt over them for three days ; then
drain, and lay them thin, to dry in the sun, repeatedly turn-
ing them. Then put plenty of whole ginger, slices of horse-
radish, peeled garJic, and whole long pepper into salt and
water for one night ; drain and dry them also ; and then boil
more than sufficient vinegar to cover them, to every two
quarts adding an ounce of turmeric, and a quarter of an ounce
of cayenne : having put the vegetables, &c. into stone jars,
pour the boiling vinegar over them, letting them stand close
covered till next day ; repeat this process the two following
days, and cover them with bladder and leather.
Sour Crout.
TAKE large white cabbages when in season, cut them into
halves, and these into slips ; wash clean, and drain dry : put
into a tub a layer of cabbage, and a layer of salt, with a few
PICKLING. 235
-coriander seeds pounded and sifted very fine, and so alternately
till it is nearly full : lay upon it a board that will nearly fit it,
and upon that a he?.vy weight to press it well : set it in a cool
dry place, and cover with a cloth.
Mode of dressing Sour Crout.
PUT the prepared cabbage into boiling water over a fire
for five minutes, and strain it: have ready, an equal number
of pieces of 'brisket of beef, and pickled pork, each weigh-
ing about a quaiter of a pound, and all nearly boiled enough;
put them into a stewpan, add the cabbage, some fresh butter,
a little vinegar, onions sliced thin, whole pepper, allspice,
and ny'ce ..ii tied in a bit of muslin : let all stew till tender,
take 6!Tt the sp : ce, season with cayenne, and serve with fried
onions, and fried sausages round.
Mushrooms.
TAKE a sufficient quantity of double distilled vinegar to
cover the mushrooms; add whole white pepper, ginger, mace,
esciialois, and a small quantity of garlic peeled; boil ten
minuter, and let it stand till cold closely covered: peel fresh
buttons, wash, clean, strain, and put them into a stewpan : to
each quart of mushrooms, add the juice of a lemon strained,
and a tabL' spoonful of salt: cover the stewpan close, set it
over the fire, and when the liquor is sufficiently drawn from
the mushrooms, put the whole into small glasses, and cover
them with the pickle, and tie with bladder.
Artichokes,
TAKE young artichokes as soon as they are formed, and
boil them for two or three minutes in strong salt and water.
Lay them upon a hair sieve to drain, and when cold, put
them into narrow-topped jars : take as much white-wine vine-
gar as will cover the artichokes. Boil them with a blade or
two of mace, a few slices of ginger, and a nutmeg cut thin.
Pour it on them while it is hot, and tie them down close.
Artichoke. Bottoms.
BOIL the artichokes till the leaves can be pulled off; take
off the chokes, and cut them from the stalk ; but take great
care not to let the knife touch the top. Throw them into salt
and water for an hour, take them out, and lay liiem on a
cloth to drain. As soon as they are dry put them into large
wide-mouthed glasses, tvith a little mace and sliced nutmeg
between, and fill them either with distilled vinegar, or sugar-
P/CKLING.
vinegar and spring-water. Cover them with mutton fat fried,
and tie them down with a leather and a bladder.
Onions.
TAKE a sufficient number of the smallest onions, and put
them into salt and water for nine days, observing to change
the water every day: put them into jars, and pour fresh boil-
ing salt and water over them. Let them stand close covered
until cold, then make some more salt and water, and pour it
boiling hot upon them. When cold, put the onions into a
hair sieve to drain, then put them into wide-mouthed bottles,
and fill them up with distilled vinegar. Put into every bot-
tle a slice or two of ginger, a blade of mace, and a large tea-
spoonful of eating oil, which will keep the onions white. If
the taste of a bay-leaf is approved, put one or two into every
bottle, and as much bay-salt as will lie on a sixpence. Cork
them up well.
Caveach, or pickled Mackerel. &ZG Frugal Dishes.
Indian Bamboo imitated.
ABOUT the beginning or middle of May, take the middle
of the stalks of the young shoots of elder, for the tops of the
shoots are not worth doing. Peel off the out rind, and lay
them all night in a strong brine of salt and beer. Dry them
singly in a cloth, and in the meantime make a pickle of an.
equal quantity of gooseberry vinegar and wine vinegar. To
every quart of pickle put an ounce of long pepper, the same
quantity of sliced ginger, a few corns of Jamaica pepper, and
a little mace. Boil it, and pour it hot upon the shoots. Stop
the jar close, and set it by the fire-side for twenty-four hours,
taking care to stir it frequently.
Asparagus.
CUT off the white ends of the largest asparagus, and wash
the green ends in spring water : put them into another clean
water, and let them lie therein two or three hours. Put into
a broad stewpan, full of spring water, a large handful of salt,
set it on the fire, and when it boils, put in tne asparagus, not
tied up, but loose, and not too many at a time. Just scald
them, and no more ; then take them out with a broad skim-
mer, and lay them on a cloth to cool : make the pickle with a
gallon or more, according to the quantity of asparagus, of
white-wine vinegar and an ounce of bay-salt. Boil it, and
put the asparagus into the jar. To a gallon of pickle put two
nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce of mace, and the same quan-
PICKLING. 237
tity of whole white pepper. Pour the pickle hot over the
asparagus, and cover them with a linen cloth, three or four
times double : and when they have stood a week, boil the
pickle again. Let them stand a week longer, then boil the
pickle again, and pour it on hot as before. When they are
cold, cover them close, in the same manner as other pickles.
Ox Palates. '
WASH the palates well with salt and water, and put them
into a saucepan with some clean salt and water ; when ready
to boil, skim them well, and put to them as much pepper,
cloves, and mace, as will give them a quick taste. When
boiled tender, which will require four or five hours, peel
them, and cut them into small pieces, and let them cool.
Then make the pickle of an equal quantity of white wine and
vinegar. Boil the pickle, ana put in the spices that were
boiled in the palates. When both the pickle and palates are
cold, lay the palates in a jar, and put to them a few bay-
leaves, and a little fresh spice. Pour the pickle over them,
cover them close, and keep them for use. They are very
useful to put into made dishes ; or you may at any time make
a pretty little dish, either with brown sauce or white, or but-
ter ana mustard, and a spoonful of white wine.
Samphire.
LAY green samphire into a clean pan, and throw over it
two or three handfuls of salt ; then cover it with spring water.
Let it lay twenty-four hours, then put into a clean saucepan,
throw in a handiul of salt, and cover it with good vinegar.
Cover the pan close, and set it over a slow fire. Let it stand
till just green and crisp, and take it off at that moment ; for
if it should remain till soft, it will be spoiled. Put it in the
pickling pot, and cover it close. As soon as cold, tie it down
with a bladder and leather, and keep it for use ; or it may be
preserved all the year, in a very strong brine of salt and
water; throw it into vinegar just before it is used.
Red Currants.
TAKE white-wine vinegar, and to every quart of vinegar
put in half a pound of Lisbon sugar. Then pick the worst
of the currants, and put them into this liquor ; but put the
best into glasses : boil the pickle with the worst of the cur-
rants, and ^skim it very clean. Boil it till it looks of a fine
colour, and let stand till cold before it is strained ; strain it
through a cloth, wringing it, to get all the colour from the
238 PICKLING.
currants. Let it stand to cool and settle ; then pour it clean
into the glasses in a little of the pickle ; and when cold, cover
it close with a bladder and leather. To every half pound of
sugar put a quarter of a pound of white salt.
Smelts:
WHEN smelts are in great plenty, take a quarter of a peck
of them, and wash, clean, arid g-jt them : take half an ounce
of pepper, the same quantity of nutmegs, a quarter of an
ounce of mace, half an ounce of salt-petre, and a quarter of
a pound of common salt. Beat all very fine, and then lay
the smelts in rows in a jar. Between every layer of smelts
strew the seasoning with four or five bay -leaves ; then boil
red wine, and pour over them a sufficient quantity to cover
them. Cover them with a plate ; and when cold, stop them
down close. Many people prefer them to anchovies.
Anchovies.
ARTIFICIAL anchovies are made in this manner : To a peck
of sprats, take two pounds of common salt, a quarter of a
pound of bay-salt, four of salt-petre, two ounces of prunella
salt, and a small quantity of cochineal. Pound all in a mor-
tar, put them into a stone pan, a row of sprats, then a layer
of the compound, and so on alternately to the top. Press
them hard down, cover them close, let them stand for six
months, and they will be fit for use. Take particular care
that the sprats are very fresh, and do not wash or wipe them,
but take them just as they come out of the water.
Oysters, Cockles, and Muscles.
TAKE two hundred of the newest and best oysters, and
be careful to save the liquor in a pan as they are opened.
Cut off the black verge, saving the rest, and put them into
their own liquor ; then put all the liquor and oysters into a
kettle, boil them about half an hour on a gentle fire, and do
them very slowly, skimming them as the scum rises; then
take them off the fire, take out the oysters, and strain the
liquor through a fine cloth: put in the oysters again, take out
a pint of the liquor when hot, and add to it a quarter of an
ounce of mace, and the same of cloves : just give it one boil,
put it to the oysters, and stir up the spices well among them ;
then put in about a spoonful of salt, three quarters of a pint
of the best white-wine vinegar, and a quarter of an ounce of
whole pepper. Then let them stand till cold, and put the.
oysters into a barrel. Put in as much liquor as the barrel
COLLARING. 239
hold, letting them settle a while, and they will soon be fit to
eat ; or put them into stone jars, cover them close Avith a
bladder and leather, and be sure they are quite cold before
they are covered up. In the like manner do cockles and
muscles, with this difference only, that there is not any thing
to be picked off cockles, and as they are small, the above in-
gredients will be sufficient for two quarts of muscles, but
take great care to pick out the crabs under the tongues of
the muscles, and the little pus which grows at the root of the
tongue. Cockles and muscles must be washed in several
waters to clean them from the grit. Put them in a stewpan
by themselves, cover them close, and when they open, pick
them out of the shells, and strain the liquor.
Salmon.
CLEAN the fish carefully, boil it gently till done, and then
take it up: strain the liquor, adding bay-leaves, peppercorns,
and salt; give it a boil, and when cold, add vinegar to the
palate, and pour over the fish.
CHAPTER II.
COLLARING.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
LT is a necessary article in collaring, to take care that you
roll it up properly, and bind it close. Be cautious that you
boil it thoroughly enough ; and when quite cold, put it into
the pickle with the same binding it had on when boiled ; but
take it off the next day, and it will leave the skin clear. Make
fresh pickle frequently, which will preserve your meat much
longer.
Beef.
BONE a piece of thick flank of beef, cut the skin off, and
salt it with two ounces of saltpetre, two ounces of sal-pru-
nella, the same quantity of bay-salt, half a pound of coarse
sugar, and two pounds of white salt. Beat the hard salts
fine, and mix all together. Turn it every day, and rub it
well with the brine "for eight days ; then take it out of the
pickle, wash it, and wipe it dry. Take a quarter of an ounce
f40 COLLARING.
of cloves, the same quantity of mace, twelve corns of allspice,
and a nutmeg beat very fine, with a spoonful of beaten pep-
per, a large quantity of chopped parsley, and some sweet
herbs chopped fine. Sprinkle it on the beef, and roll it up
very tight; put a coarse cloth round it, and tie it very tight
with tape. Boil it in a large copper of water ; and if a large
collar, it will take six hours boiling; but a small one will be
done in five. Take it out, and put it in a press till cold ; or
between two boards, and a large weight upon it.
Breast of Veal,
TAKE a breast of veal, bone it, and beat it a little. Rub it
over with the yolk of an egg, and strew over it a little beaten
mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt ; a large handful of parsley
chopped small, with a few sprigs of sweet marjoram, a little
lemon peel finely shred, an anchovy washed, boned, and chop-
ped very small, and mixed with a few crumbs of bread : roll it
up very tight, bind it hard with a fillet, and wrap it in a clean
cloth ; then boil it two hours and a half in salt water ; and
when enough, hang it up by one end, and make a pickle for
it: to a pint of salt and water put half a pint of vinegar; and
when sent to table, cut a slice off one of th ends.
Breast of Mutton.
TAKE off the skin of a breast of mutton, and with a sharp
knife nicely take out all the bones ; but take care not to cut
through the meat. Pick all the fat and meat off the bones,
then grate some nutmeg all over the inside of the mutton, a
very Tittle beaten mace, a little pepper and salt, a few sweet
herbs shred small, a few crumbs of bread, and the bits of fat
picked off the bones. Roll it up tight, stick a skewer in to
hold it together, but do it in such a manner that the collar may
stand upright in the dish. Tie a packthread across it, to hold
it together; spit it ; then roll the caul of a breast of veal all
round it, and roast. When it has been about an hour at the
fire, take off the caul, dredge it with flour, baste it well \\ith
fresh butter, and let it be of a fine brown. It will require on
the whole, an hour and a quarter roasting. For sauce, take
some stock and coulis well seasoned.
Or, bone a large breast of mutton, and take out all the
gristles. Rub it all over with the yolk of an egg, and season
it with pepper, salt, nutmeg, parsley, thyme, sweet marjoram,
all shred small, and shalot if approved. Wash and cut an
anchovy in bits. Strew all this over the meat, roll it up hard,
tie it with a tape, and put it into a ewpan ; brown it, add
COLLARING. 241
some gravy well seasoned, and thicken it with flour and
butter. Add some truffles and morels, or pickled cucumbers,
or girkins sliced.
Calf's Head.
TAKE off the hair of a calf's head, but leave on the skin.
Rip it do\vn the face, and take out "all the bones carefully
from the meat. Steep it in warm milk till it is white, then lay
it flat, rub it with the white of an egg, and strew over it a
spoonful of white pepper, two or three blades of beaten mace,
a nutmeg grated, a spoonful of salt, two score of oysters
chopped small, half a pound of beef marrow, and a large
handful of parsley. Lay them all over the inside of the
head, cut o(F the ears, and lay them on a thin part of the
head : roll it up tight, bind it up with a fillet, and wrap it up
in a clean cloth. Boil it two hours ; and when almost cold,
bind it up with a fresh fillet, and put it in a pickle made, as-
before directed, for a breast of veal.
Pig.
HAVING killed your pig, dress oil the hair, and draw out
the entrails. Then wash it clean, and with a sharp knife rip
it open, and take out all the bones; then rub it all over with
pepper and salt beaten fine, a few sage-leaves, and sweet herbs
chopped small; then roll up your pig tight,- and bind it with
a fillet. Fill your boiler with soft water, a bunch of sweet
herbs, a few pepper-corns, a blade or two of mace, eight or
ten cloves, a handful of salt, and a pint of vinegar. When it
boils put in your pig, and let it boil till it is tender. Then
take it up ; and when it is almost cold, bind it over again, put
it into an earthen pot, and pour the liquor your pig was boiled
in upon it. Remember to keep it covered.
Venison.
TAKE a side of venison, bone it, and take away all the
sinews, and cut it into square collars. It will make two or
three collars. Lard it with fat clear bacon, and cut the lards
as big as the top of the finger, and three or four inches long.
Season the venison with pepper, salt, cloves, and nutmeg.
Roll up the collars, and tie them close with coarse tape; then
put them into deep pots, with seasonings at the bottoms, some
fresh butter, and three or four bay-leaves ; then put in the
rest, with some seasoning and butter on the top, and over
that some beef suet finely shred and beaten ; cover up the
pot with coarse paste, and bake them four or five hours.
R
242 COLLARING.
After that, take them out of the oven, and let them stand a
little. Take out the venison, and let it drain well from the
gravy. Take off all the fat from the gravy, add more butter
to the fat, and set it over a gentle fire to clarify. Then take
it off, and let it stand a little and skim it well. Make the
pots clean, or have pots ready fit for each collar. Put a little
seasoning, and some of the clarified butter at .the bottom :
then put in the venison, and fill up the pots with clarified
butter, and be sure the butter is an inch above the meat.
When thoroughly cold, tie it down with double paper, and
lay a tile on the top. They will keep six or eight months ;
and when a pot is wanted, put it for a minute into boiling
water, and it will come out whole. Let it stand till cold,
stick it round with bay-leaves, and a sprig ^t the top.
Eds.
CUT the eel open, take out the bones, cut off the head and
tail, and lay the eel flat on the dresser. Shred some sage
as fine as possible, and mix it with black pepper beaten, some
nutmeg grated, and some salt. Lay it ali over the eel, and
roll it up hard in little cloths, tying it up tight at each end.
Then set on some water, with pepper and salt, five or six
cloves, three or four blades of mace, and a bay-leaf or two.
Boil these, with the bones, head, and tail j then take out the
bones, head, and tail, and put in the eels. Let them boil till
tender, then take them out of the liquor, and boil the liquor
longer. Take it off; and when cold put it to the eels ; but
do not take off the little cloths till the collars are used.
Salmon.
TAKE a side of salmon, and cut off about a handful of the
tail. Wash well the large piece, and dry it with a cloth.
Wash it over with the yolks of eggs, and make some force-
meat with what was cutoff the tail ; but take off the skin, and
put to it a handful of parboiled oysters, a tail or two of lob-
sters, the yolks of three or four eggs boiled hard, six ancho-
vies, a good handful of sweet herbs chopped small, a little
salt, chives, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and grated bread. Work
all these together in a mortar with yolks of eggs, and lay it
all over the fleshy part, with a little more pepper and salt all
over the salmon. Then roll it up into a collar, and bind it
with broad tape. Boil it in water, salt, and vinegar ; but let
the liquor boil first. Then put in the; collars, with a bunch of
sweet herbs, sliced ginger, and nutmeg. Let them boil
gently nearly two hours; and when enough, take them up.
Put tlu-m into the sousing-pan; and as soon as the pickle i*
POTTING. 21-3
cold, put it to the salmon, and let it stand in it till wanted for
Use ; or it maybe potted after it is boiled, and fill it up with
clarified butter; and this way it will keep good the longer.
Mackerel.
HAVING gutied the mackerel, slit it down the belly, cut off
the head, and take out the bones; but take care not to cut it in
holes. Then lay it flat upon its back, season it with pepper,
salt, mace, and nutmeg, and a handful of parsley, shred fine.
Strew it over them, roll them tight, and tie them well sepa-
rately in cloths. Boil them gently twenty mimites in vinegar,
salt, and water ; then take them out, put them into a pot, and
pour the liquor on them. The next day take the cloth off
the fish, put a little more vinegar to the pickle, and keep them
for use.
CHAPTER III.
POTTING.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
JDEFORE you send your meat to the oven, take care to cover
it well with butter, fasten it down with strong paper, and
bake it well. As soon as it comes from the oven, drain the
gravy |rom the meat, and be careful to pick out all the skins,
as otherwise they will hurt the look of the meat, and the gravy
will soon turn it sour. Remember always to beat your season-
ing well before you put in your meat, and put it in by de-
grees as you beat. When you put your meat into your pots,
press it well, and be sure never to pour your clarified butter
over your meat till it is quite cold.
Marble Veal.
BOIL, skin, and cut a dried tongue as thin as possible, and
beat it very well with near a pound of butter, and a little
beaten mace, till it be like a paste. Have ready some veal
stewed and beat in the same manner. Then put some veal
into some potting-pots, thin some tongue in lumps over the
vea! ; but do not lay on the tongue in any form but in lumps,
and it will then cut like marble. Fill the pot ( closeup with
veal; press it very hard down, and pour clarified butter over
R 2
Ml POTTING.
it. Remember to keep it in a dry place ; and when sent to
table, cut it out in slices.
Geese and Turkeys.
TAKE a fat goose and a fat turkey, cut them down the
rump, and take out all the bones. Lay them flat open, and
season them with white pepper, salt, and nutmeg, allowing
a nutmeg, with the Jike proportion of pepper, and as much
salt as both the spices. When seasoned al^over, let the tur-
key be within the goose, and keep them in seasoning two
nights and a day ; then roll them up as collared beef, very
tight, and as short as possible, and bind it very fast with
strong tape. Bake it in a long pan, with plenty of butter,
till very tender. Let it lie in the hot liquor an hour; then
take it out, and let it stand till next day ; then unbind it, place
it in the pot, and pour melted butter over it. Keep it for
use, and slice it out thin.
Tongues.
RUB a neat's tongue with an ounce of saltpetre, and four
ounces of brown sugar, and let it lie two days ; then boil it
till quite tender, and take off she skin and side bits. Cut the
tongue in very thin slices, and beat it in a marble mortar, with
a pound of clarified butter, and season it to the taste with
pepper, salt, and mace. Beat all as fine as possible, then put
it close down into small potting-pots, and pour over them cla-
rified butter.
Or, take a dried tongue, boil it till tender, and then peel it.
Take a goose and a large fowl, and bone them ; take a quar-
ter ot an ounce of mace, the same quantity of olives, a large
nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of black pepper, and beat all
well together ; add a spoonful of salt, and rub the tongue and
the inside of the fowl well with them. Put the tongue into
the fowl, then season the goose, and fill it with the fowl and
tongue, and the goose will look as if it were whole. Lay it
in a pan that will just hold it, melt fresh butter enough to
cover it, send it to the oven, and bake it an hour and a naif;
then uncover the pet, and take out the meat. Carefully drain
it from the butter, lay it on a coarse cloth till cold, then take
ff the hard fat from the gravy, and lay it before the fire to
melt. Put the meat again into the pot, and pour the butter
over it. If there is not enough, clarify more, and let the but-
ter be an inch above the meat. It will keep a great while,
n;ie, and look beautiful ; but must be cut crossways quite
Observe, in potting it, to save a little of the spice to
throw over it before the last butter is put on, otherwise the
meat will not be sufficiently seasoned
POTTING. 24>
Beef.
TAKE half a pound of brown sugar, and an ounce of salt-
petre, and rub it into twelve pounds of beef. Let it lie
twenty-four hours; then wash it clean, and dry it well with
a cloth. Season it to the taste, with pepper, salt, and mace,
and cut it into five or six pieces. Put it into an earthen pot,
with a pound of butter in lumps upon it, set it in a hot oven,
and let stand there three hours. Then take it out, cut olTthe
hard outsides, and beat it in a mortar. Add to it a little more
pepper, salt, and mace. Then oil a pound of butter in the
gravy and fat that came from the beef, and put it in as re-
quired ; but beat the meat exceedingly fine. Then put it into
the pots, press it close down, pour clarified butter over it, and
keep it in a dry place.
Or, take a buttock of beef, and cut the lean of it into pound
pieces. To eight pounds of beef, take four ounces of salt-
petre, the same quantity of petre-salt, a pint of white salt,
and an ounce of sal-prunella. Beat all the salts very fine,
mix them well together, and rub them into the beef. Then
let it lie four clays, turning it twice a day. After that, put it
into a pan, cover it with pump-water, and a little of its own
brine. Bake it in an oven, with the household bread, till it -
is tender ; drain it from the gravy ; and take out all the skin
and sinews. Pound it into a marble mortar, lay it in a broad
dish, and mix in it a quarter of an ounce of cloves and mace,
three quarters of an ounce of pepper, and a nutmeg, all
beat very fine. Mix all well with the meat, adding a little
clarified fresh butter to moisten ir. Mix all again well toge-
ther, press it down into pots very hard, set it at the mouth of
the oven just to settle, and cover it two inches thick with cla-
rified butter. Cover it with white paper as soon as it isco'id.
Or, take two pounds of lean beef, cut it into slices, and lay
them upon a plate; season with salt and pepper, and a little
cochineal. Turn and season them on the other side, and then
let them lie one upon another all night : put them into a pan ;
add to them half a pint of small beer, a little vinegar, and as
much water as will cover them, and some black and Jamaica,
pepper : cover very close, and bake them. When they are
baked, take the slices out of the pickle, while they are hot,
let them lie till cold, and then beat them in a mortar. Add to
them a pdund of fresh butter, while they are beating, some
salt, pepper, and nutmeg. When they are well beaten, put
them into the pot, and when the bread is drawn, put it into the
oven until it is hot through. When cold, cover it over with
clarified butter, and it win !;ee;> a mnnth or two.
246 POTTING.
To Pot Cold Beef.
CUT it small, add to it some melted butter, two anchovies,
boned and washed, and a little Jamaica pepper beat fine.
Put them into a marble mortar, and beat them well together
till the meat is yellow. Then put it into pots, and cover with
clarified butter.
Small Birds.
HAVING picked and gutted the birds, dry them well with a
cloth, and season them with pepper, salt, and mace. Then
put them into a pot with butter,, tie the pot down with caper,
and bake them in a moderate oven. When they come out,
drain the gravy from them, and put them into potting-pots.
Pour clarih'ed butter over them, and cover them close.
Pigeons.
PICK and draw the pigeons, cut off the pinions, wash them
clean, and put them into a sieve to drain : dry them with a
cloth, and season with pepper and salt. Roll a lump of but-
ter in chopped parsley, and put it into the pigeons. Sew up
the vent, put them into a pot with butter over them, tie them
down, and set them in a moderately heated oven. When
they come out, put them into potting-pots, and pour clarified
butter over then).
Woodcocks.
TAKE six woodcocks, pluck them, and draw out the trail.
Skewer their bills through their thighs, put their legs through
each other, and their feet upon their breasts : season with
three or four blades of mace, and a little pepper and salt.
Put them into a deep pot, with a pound of butter over them ;
bake them in a moderate oven, and when enough, lay them
on a dish to drain the gravy from them. Then put them
into potting-pots; take all the clear butter from the gravy, and
put it upon them. Fill up the pots with clarified butter.
Keep them in a dry place for use.
Moor Game.
HAVING picked and drawn the game, wipe them clean with
a cloth, and season well with pepper, salt, and mace. Put
one leg through the other, and roast them till of a good
brown. When cold, put them into potting-pots, and pour
POTTING. 247
over them clarified butter ; but observe to keep their heads
uncovered with butter. Keep them in a dry place.
Venison.
RUB the venison with vinegar, if stale, and let it lie an hour;
dry it with a cloth, and rub it all over with red wine ; season
with pepper, salt, and beaten mace, and put it on an earthen
dish : pour over it half a pint of red wine, and a pound of
butter, and set in the oven. If a shoulder, put a coarse paste
over it, and bake it all night in a brown bread oven. When,
it comes out, pick it clean from the bones, and beat it in a
marble mortar, with the fat from the gravy. If not suffi-
ciently seasoned, add more seasoning and clarified butter,
and keep beating it till it is a fine paste. Then press it hard
down into the pots, and pour clarified butter over it.
Hares.
LET the hare hang up for four or five days with the skin
on, then case it, and cut it up as for eating. Put it into a pot,
and season it with pepper, salt, and mace. Put a pound of
butter upon it, tie it down, and bake it in a bread oven.
When it comes out, pick it clean from the bones, and pound
it very fine in a mortar, with the fat from the gravy: put it
close down into pots, and pour over it clarified butter.
Herrings.
CUT off the heads of the herrings, and put them into an
earthen pot; lay them close, and between every layer of her-
rings strew some salt, but not too much. Put in cloves,
rnace, whole pepper, and a nutmeg cut in pieces. Fill up
the pot with vinegar, water, and a quarter of a pint of white
wine. Cover it with brown paper, tie it down, and bake it in
an oven with brown bread. As soon as cold, put it into pot-
ting-pots for use.
Chars.
AFTER having cleansed them, cut off the fins, tails, and
heads, and lay them in rows in a long baking-pan, having
first seasoned them with pepper, salt, and mace. When
done, let them stand till cold, put them into potting-pots, and
cover them with clarified butter.
Eels.
SKIN, cleanse, and wash clean a very large eel. Dry it
in a cloth, and cut in pieces about four inches long. Season
243 POTTING.
with a little beaten mace and nutmeg, pepper, salt, and a
little sal-prunella beat fine. Lay in a pan, and pour as much
clarified butter over as will cover it. Bake half an hour in a
quick oven; but the size of the eel will determine the tim
in baking. Take it out with a fork, and Jay it on a coarse
cloth to drain. When quite cold, season again with the same
seasoning, and lay them close in the pot. Then take off the
butter it was baked in clear from the gravy of the fish, arid set
it in a dish before the fire. When melted, pour the butter
over it, and put by for use. The eels may be boned ; but in
that case put in no sal-prunella.
. Lampreys.
SKIN the lampreys, cleanse them with salt, and wipe them
dry ; bear some black pepper, mace, and cloves, mix them
with salt, and season the fish with it: lay them in a pan, and
cover them with clarified butter; bake them an hour, season
well, and treat them in the same manner as above directed
for eels. If your butter is good they will keep a long time.
Smelts.
DKAW out the inskJe ; season with salt, pounded mace, and
pepper, and butter on the top; bake them, and when nearly
cold, take them out, and lay them on a cloth. Put them into
pots, take off the butter from the gravy, clarify it with more y
and pour it on them.
Pike.
SCALE the. pike, cut off its head, split it, and take out iljp
chine bone; strew all over the inside some bay-salt and pep-
per; roll it up round, and lay it in a pot,~~cover it, and bake
it an hour : then take it out, and lay it on a coarse cloth to
drain, and when cold, put it into the pot, and cover with cla-
rified butter.
Lobster.
BOIL a live lobster in salt and water, and stick a skewer in
the vent of it to prevent the water (retting in. As soon as
cold, take out the gut, take out all the flesh, beat it fine in
a mortar, and season with beaten mace, grated nutmeg, pep-
per and salt : mix all together, melt a piece.,0/ gutter the size
of a walnut, und mix it with the lobster fP&lst beating it.
When beaten to a paste, put it into the pottfiio-pot, as close
and as hard as possible. Set some butler in a deep broad pan
before the fire, and when all melted, take off the scum at the
top, if any, and pour the clear butter over the meat as thick
POTTING. 249
as a crown -piece. The whey and churn-milk will settle at the
bottom of the pan ; but take great care that none of that goes
in, and always let the butter be very good.
Shrimps.
WHEN they are boiled, and shelled ; season well with pep-
per, salt, and a little pounded cloves: put them close into a
pot, set them for a few minutes into a slack oven, and pour
over them clarified butter.
Salmon.
SCALE a piece of fresh salmon, and wipe it clean, season
with Jamaica pepper, black pepper, mace, and cloves beat
fine, mixed with salt, and a little sal-prunella; then pour cla-
rified butter over it and bake it well: take it out carefully
and lay it to drain. When cold, season it again, and lay it
close in the pot, covered with clarified butter.
Or, scale and clean the salmon, cut it down the back, dry
it well, and cut it as near the shape of the pot as possible :
take two nutmegs, an ounce of mace and cloves beaten, half
an ounce of white pepper, and an ounce of salt ; take out all
the bones, cut off the jowl below the fins and cut off the tail.
Season the scaly side first, lay that at the bottom of the pot,
then rub the seasoning on the other side, cover it with a dish,
and let it stand ail night. It must be put double, and the
scaly side top and bottom ; put some butter at the bottom and
top, and cover the pot with some stiff coarse paste. If a large
fish it will require three hours baking ; but if a small one, two
hours will do it. When it comes out of the oven, let it stand
h 9 an hour ; then uncover it, and raise it up at one end,
that the gravy may run out, remembering to put u trencher
and a weight on it to press out the gravy. When the butter is
cold, take it out clear from the gravy, add more butter to it,
and put it in a pan before the fire. When melted, pour it
over the salmon, and as soon as it is cold, paper it up.
Carp, Tench, and Trout,
MAY be potted in manner already directed for salmon.
250 SALTING AND SOUSING.
CHAPTER IV.
SALTING AND SOUSING.
THE PREPARATION OF BACON, HAMS, Ifc.
Bacon.
CUT off the hams and head of the pig, and, if a large one,
take out the chine, but leave in the spareribs, as they will keep
in the gravy, and prevent the bacon getting rusty. Salt it with
common salt, and a little saltpetre, and let it lie ten days on
a table, to let ^11 the brine run from it. Then salt it again ten
or twelve days, turning it every day after the second salting :
then scrape it very clean, rub a little salt on it, and hang it up.
Take care to scrape the white froth off it very clean, and rub
on a little dry salt, which will keep the bacon from rusting.
The dry salt will candy and shine on it like diamonds.
Or, take off all the inside fat of a side of pork, and lay it on
a long board or dresser, that the blood may run from it. Rub
it well on both sides with good salt, and let it lie a day. Then
take a pint of bay-salt, a quarter of a pound of salt-petre, and
beat them both fine ; two pounds of coarse sugar, and a
quarter of a peck of common salt. Lay the pork in something
that will hold the pickle, and rub it well with the above in-
gredients. Lay the skinny side downwards, and baste it
every day with pickle for a fortnight. Then hang it in a wood
smoke, and afterwards hang it in a dry place but not in a hot
place. Observe, that all hams and bacon should hang clear
from every thing, and not touch the wall. Take care to wipe
off the old salt before it is put into the pickle, and never keep
bacon or hams in a hot kitchen, or in a room exposed to the
rays of the sun, as all these matters contribute to make it
rusty.
Westphalia Bacon.
HAVING chosen a fine side of pork, make the following
pickle : take a gallon of pump-water, a quarter of a peck of
bay-salt, the same quantity of white salt, a pound of petre-
salt, a quarter of a pound of saltpetre, a pound of coarse
sugar, and an ounce of socho tied up in a rag. Boil all these
SALTING AND SOUSING. 251
well together, and let it stand till cold. Then put in the pork,
let it lie in this pickle for a fortnight, take it out, and dry it
over sawdust smoke. This pickle will answer very well for
tongues ; but in that case, the tongues must first lie six or
eight hours in pump-water, to takeout the sliminess; and
when they have lain a proper time in the pickle, dry them as
pork.
Hams.
CUT out the hams from the pig, and rub them well with
an ounce of saltpetre, half an ounce of sal-prunella pounded,
and a pound of common salt. Observe, that these quantities
of salts must be allowed to each ham. Lay them in salt-pans
for ten days, turn them once in the time, and rub them well
with more common salt. Let them lie ten days longer, and
turn them every clay. Then take them out, scrape them as
clean as possible, and dry them well with a clean cloth. Then
rub them slightly over with a little salt, and hang them up to
dry, but not in too hot a place.
Or, take a fat hind-quarter of pork, and cut off a fine ham :
take two ounces of saltpetre, a pound of coarse sugar, the
same quantity of common salt, and two ounces of sal-prunella,
mix ail together, and rub the pork well with it. Let it lie a
month in this pickle, turning and basting it every day : then
hang it in a wood smoke in a dry place, so that no heat can
come to it ; and if intended to be kept long, hang them a
month or two in a damp place, taking care that they do not
become mouldy, and it will make them cut fine and short.
Never lay these hams in water till they are boiled, and then
boil them in a copper, or in the largest size pot.
Hams the Yorkshire Way.
FIRST beat them well, and then mix half a peck of salt,
three ounces of saltpetre, half an ounce of sal-prunella, and
five pounds of coarse salt. Rub the hams well wit!; this, and
lay the remainder on the top. Let them lie three days,
and then hang them up. Put as much water to the pickle as
will cover the hams, adding salt till it will bear an egg, and
then boil and strain it. Then next morning put in the hams,
and press them down so that they maybe covered. Letthem
lie a fortnight, rub them well with bran, and dry them. The
above ingredients are sufficient for three middling sized
hams.
New England Hams.
FOR two hams, take two ounces of sal-prunella ; beat it
fine, rub it well in, and let them lie twenty-four hours. Then
252 SALTING AND SOUSING.
take half a pound of bay-salt, a quarter of a pound of brown
salt, a quarter of a pound of common salt, and one ounce of
saltpetre, all beat fine, and half a pound of the coarsest sugar.
Rub all these well in, and let them lie two or three days.
Then take common white sult,and make a pretty strong brine
with about two gallons of water, and half a pound of brown
sugar. Boil it well, arid skim it when cold. Then put in the
hams, and turn them every two or three days in the pickle for
three weeks. Then hang them up in a chimney, and smoke
them well a day or two with horse -litter. Afterwards let them
hang about a week on the side of the kitchen chimney, and
then take them down. Keep them dry in a box, with bran
covered over them. They may be eaten in a month, or will
keep very well one year.
Westphalia Ham.
RUB it with half a pound of the coarsest sugar, and let it lie
till night. Then rub it with an ounce of saltpetre finely
beaten, and a pound of common salt. Let it lie three weeks,
turning it every day. Dry it in wood smoke, or where turf
is burnt. When boiled, put it into the pot or copper, with a
pint of oak sawdust.
To cure two Hams after the IV tstmor eland Manner.
RUB the hams over night with ten ounces of saltpetre, and
next morning take three pounds of common salt, three pounds
of the coarsest sugar, and one pound of bay-salt. Boil all
these in three quarts of strong beer; and when it has boiled
a little time, pour it over the hams. Let theni lie in this
pickle one month, rubbing and turning them every day, ob-
serving not to take them out of the pan. The same pickle is
good for tongues and sauces. Before they are smoked, rub a
handful of bran over them to dry them, and let them hang
three weeks or a month.
Mutton Ha jus.
CUT a hind-quarter of mutton like a ham, and rub it well
with an ounce of saltpetre, a pound of coarse sugar, and a
pound of common salt well mixed together. Lay it in a hol-
low tray, with the skin downwards, and baste it every day
for a fortnight. Then roll it in sawdust, and hang it in wood-
smoke for a fortnight. Boil it, and hang it in a dry place.
Cut it out in slices, and broil them as you want them, and they
eat very fine.
SALTING AND SOUSING. 253
Veal Hams.
TAKE a leg of veal, and cut it like a ham. Take a pint of
bay-salt, two ounces of saltpetre, and a pound of common
salt. Mix them all together, with an ounce of beaten juni-
per berries, and rub the ham well with them. Lay it in a
hollow tray, with the skinny side downwards, and baste it every
day with the pickle for a fortnight, and then hang it in wood
smoke for a fortnight longer. It may be either boiled, par-
boiled, or roasted.
Beef Hams.
TAKE the leg of a fat Scotch or Welch ox, and cut it like
a ham. Take an ounce of bay-salt, an ounce of saltpetre, a
pound of common salt, and a pound of coarse sugar, which
will be a sufficient quantity for about fourteen or fifteen
pounds of beef ; and if a greater or less quantity of meat, mix
the ingredients in proportion. Rub the meat with the above
ingredients, turn it every day, and baste it well with the pickle
every day for a month. Take it out, and roll it in bran or
sawdust. Hang it in wood srnoke, where there is but little
tire, and a constant smoke, for a month. Take it down, and
hang it in a dry place, not a hot one, and keep it for use. Cut
a piece off as there is occasion, and either boil it, or cut it into
rashers, and broil it with poached eggs, or boil a piece, and it
eats very good cold,. and v/ill shiver like Dutch beef.
Tongues.
HAVING scraped and dried the tongues clean with a cloth,
salt them with common salt, and half an ounce of saltpetre
to every tongue. Lay them in a deep pot, and turn them
every day for a week or ten days. Salt them again, and let
them lie a week longer. Then take them out, dry them with
a cloth, flour them, and hang them up in a dry, but not in, a
hot place.
Hung Beef.
MAKE a strong brine with bay-salt, saltpetre, and puinp-
water, and put into it a rib of beef for nine days. Then hang
it up in a chimney where wood or sawdust is burnt. When
it is a little dry, wash the outside with blood two or three
times, to make it look black; and when it is dried enough,
boil it for use.
Or, take the navel piece, and hang it up in your cellar as
long as it will keep good, and till it begins to be a little
254 SALTING AND SOUSING.
sappy ; then take it down, and wash it in sugar and water, one
piece after another, as it must be cut into three pieces Then
take a pound of saltpetre, and two pounds of bay-salt dried
and pounded small. Mix with them two or three spoonsful of
brown sugar, and rub the beef well with it in every place.
Then strew a sufficient quantity of common salt all over it,
and let the beef lie close till the salt is dissolved, which will
be in six or seven days. Turn it every other day for a fort-
night, and after that hang it up in a warm, but not a hot
place. It may hang a fortnight in the kitchen, and when it is
wanted, boil it in bay-salt and pump-water till tender. It will
keep when boiled, two or three months, rubbing it with a
greasy cloth, or putting it two or three minutes into boiling
water, to take off the mouldiness.
Dutch Beef.
TAKE a raw buttock of beef, cut off the fat, rub the lean
all over with brown sugar, and let it lie two or three hours
in a pan or tray, turning it two or three times. Then salt
it with saltpetre and common salt, and let it lie a fortnight,
turning it every day. Then roll it very straight in a coarse
cloth, put it in a cheese-press a day and a night, and hang it
to dry in a chimney. When it is boiled, put it in a cloth,
and when cold, it will cut like Dutch beef.
Pickled Pork.
HAVING boned your pork, cut it into pieces of a size suit-
able to lie in the pan into which it is intended to be put.
Rub the pieces well with saltpetre; then take two pints'of
common salt, and two of bay-salt, and rub the pieces well
with them. Put a layer of common salt at the bottom of the
vessel, cover every piece over with common salt, lay them
upon one another as close as possible, rilling the hollow
places on the sides with salt. As the salt melts on the top,
strew on more, lay a coarse cloth over the vessel, a board over
that, and a weight on the board to keep it down. Keep it
close covered ; and thus managed, it will keep the whole
year.
Mock Brawn.
TAKE the head and a piece of the belly part of a young
porker, and rub it well with saltpetre. Let it lie three days,
and then wash it clean. Split the head, and boil it ; take out
the bones, and cut it in pieces. Then take four ox feet
boiled tender, cut them in thin pieces, and lay them in the
SALTING AND SOUSING. 255
belly piece with the head cut small : roll it up tight with
sheet tin, and boil it four or five hours. When it comes out,
set it up on one end, put a trencher on it within the tin, press
it down with a large weight, and let it stand all night. The
next morning, take it out of the tin, and bind it with a fillet.
Put it into cold salt and water, and it will be fit for use. It
will keep a long time, if fresh salt and water are put to it every
tour days.
Sausages.
TAKE six pounds of young pork, free from skin, gristles,
and fat. Cut it very small, and beat it in a mortar till very
fine. Then shred six pounds of beef suet very fine, and free
from all skin. Take a good deal of sage, wash it very clean,
pick off the leaves, and shred it very fine. Spread the meat
on a clean dresser or table, and then shake the sage all over
it, to the quantity of about three large spoonsful. Shred the
thin rind of a middling lemon very fine, and throw it over the
meat, and also as many sweet herbs as, when shred fine, will
fill a large spoon. Grate over it two nutmegs, and put to it
two tea-spoonsful of pepper, and a large spoonful of salt ; then.
throw over it the suet, and mix all well together. Put it down
close in a pot, and, when used roll it up with as much egg as
will make it roll smooth. Make them of the size of a sau-
sage, and fry them in butter or good dripping. Be sure that
the butter in the pan is hot before they are put in, and keep
rolling them about. When they are thoroughly hot, and are
of a fine light brown, take them out and serve them up.
Veal eats well done in this manner, or veal mixed with pork.
Or, clean some guts, and fill them with this meat.
Bologna Sausages.
TAKE a pound of beef suet, a pound of pork, a pound of
bacon, fat and lean together, and the same quantity of beef
and veal. Cut them small and chop them fine. Take a small
handful of sage, pick off the leaves, and chop them fine with
a few sweet herbs. Season pretty high with pepper and salt.
Take a large gut well cleaned, and fifi it. Set on a saucepan
of water, and when it boils, put it in, having first pricked the
gut to prevent its bursting. Boil it gently an hour, and then
lay it on clean straw to dry.
^ 's Puddings with Almonds,
CHOP fine a pound of beef marrow, half a pound of sweet
almonds blanched, and beat them fine, with a little oraoge-
256 SALTING AND SOUSING.
flower or rose water, half a pound of white bread grated fine,
half a pound of currants clean washed and picked, a quarter
of a pound of fine sugar, a quarter of an ounce of mace, nut-
meg, and cinnamon together, of each an equal quantity, and
half a pint of sack. Mix all well together with half a pint of
good cream, and the yolks of four eggs. Fill the guts half
full, tie them up, and boil them a quarter of an hour. Or
leave out the currants for change ; but then a quarter of a
pound more sugar must be added.
Hog's Pudding with Cuwants.
To four pounds of beef suet finely shred, put three pounds
of grated bread, and two pounds of currants clean picked and
washed ; cloves, mace, and cinnamon, of each a quarter of
an ounce finely beaten, a little salt, a pound and a half of
sugar, a pint of sack, a quart of cream, a little rose water,
and twenty eggs well beaten, leaving out half the whites.
Mix all these well together, fill the guts half full, boil them a
little, and prick them as they boil, to keep them from break-
ing the guts. Take them up upon clean c!oths, and then lay
them on the dish.
Black Puddings.
TAKE a peck of grits, boil them half an hour in water,
drain them, and put them into a clean tub or large pan. Then
kill the hog, and save two quarts of the blood, and keep stir-
ring it till the blood is quite cold: mix it with the grits, and
stir them well together. Season it with a large spoonful of
salt, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, mace, and nutmeg
together, an equal quantity of each. Dry it, beat it well and
mix it. Take a little winter savoury, sweet marjoram, and
thyme; chopped very fine. Of these take just a sufficient
quantity to season them, and to give them a flavour, but no
more. The next day take the leaf of the hog, and cut it into
dice ; scrape and wash the guts very clean ; then tie one end,
and begin to fill them. Mix in the fat whilst filling them,
and be sure to put in a good deal of fat. Fill the skins three
parts full, tie the other end, and make the puddings what-
ever length may be required. Prick them with a pin, and
put them into a kettle of boiling water. Boil them very sof th-
an hour, take them out, and lay them on clean straw.
Scotch Black Puddings.
TAKE blood of a goose, chop off the head, and save the
blood : stir it well till cold, and then mix it with grits, spice,
SALTING AND SOUSING. 2 51
salt, and sweet herbs, according to their fancy, and some
beef suet chopped. Take the skin off the the neck, then pull
out the windpipe and fat, fill the skin, tie it at both ends, and
make a pie of the giblets, laying the pudding in the middle.
Turkey soused in Imitation of Sturgeon.
DRESS a fine large turkey very clean, dry and bone it, then
tie it up like a sturgeon, and put it into the pot with a quart
of white wine, a quart of water, the same quantity of good
vinegar, and a very large handful of salt ; but remember that
the wine, water, and vinegar, must boil before the turkey is
put in, and that the pot is well skimmed before it boils.
When enough, take it out, and tie it tighter ; but let the liquor
boil a little longer. If the pickle want more vinegar or salt,
add it when cold, and pour it upon the turkey. It will keep
some months, if covered close from the air, and kept in a cool
dry place. It may be eaten with oil, vinegar, and sugar; and
some admire it more than sturgeon.
Soused Tripe.
BOIL the tripe, and put it into salt and water, which must
be changed every day till the tripe is used. When wanted,
dip it in batter made of flour and eggs, and fry it of a good
brown ; or boil it in fresh salt and water, with an onion sliced,
and a few sprigs of parsley. Send it up to table, with melted
butter in a boat.
Pigs Feet and Ears soused.
HAVING cleansed them properly, boil them till they are
N tender, and then split the feet, and put them and the ears into
salt and water. When used, dry them well with a cloth, dip
them in batter, fry them, and send them up to table, as above
directed for tripe. They will keep some time, and may be
eaten cold ; but take care to make fresh pickle every other
day.
,/
Admiral Sir Charles Knowles's Receipt to salt Meat,
As soon as the ox is killed, let it be skinned and cut up
into pieces fit for use, as quick as possible, and salted whilst
the meat is hot ; for which purpose have a sufficient quantity
of saltpetre and bay-salt pounded together and made hot in an
oven, of each equal parts. With this sprinkle the meat at the
rate of about two ounces to the pound. Then lay the pieces
on shelving boards to drain for twenty-four hours. Turn
them, and repeat the same operation, and let them lie for
268 GARDEN STU1FS AND FUU1TS.
twenty -four hours longer. By this time the salt will be all
melted, and have penetrated the meat, and the pieces be
drained off. Each piece must be then wiped dry with clean
coarse cloths, and a sufficient quantity of common salt made
hot likewise in an oven and mixed, when taken out, with about
one third of brown sugar. The casks being ready, rub each
piece well with this mixture, and pack them well down, allow-
ing about half a pound of the salt and sugar to each pound of
meat, and it will keep good several years, and eat very well.
It is best to proportion the casks or barrels to the quantity
consumed at a time, as the seldomer it is exposed to the air
the better. The same process does for pork, only a larger
quantity of salt, and less sugar; but the preservation of both
depends equally upon the meat being hot when first salted.
CHAPTER V.
TO KEEP GARDEN STUFFS AND FRUITS.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
.As the art of preserving garden stuffs and fruits from being
injured or spoiled by keeping, j s a matter of some conse-
quence to the superintendant of the kitchen, it will be neces-
sary to observe, that every species of the vegetable tribe must
be kept in dry places, as damp places will not only cover
them with mould, but also totally deprive them of their fine
flavour. The same thing will hold good with respect to bot-
tled fruit; but take care r while you endeavour to avoid put-
ting them into damp places, you do not put them where they
may get warm, as that will equally spoil them. When you
boil any dried vegetables, be sure that you allow them plenty
of water.
To keep French Beans all the Year.
O.vnU'R the beans on a very fine day, and take only those
that are young and free from spots. Clean and dry them,
put a layer of salt at the bottom of a large stone jar, and then
a layer of beans ; then salt, and then beans, and so on till the
jar is full. Cover them with salt, tie a coarse cloth over
them, put a board on that, and a weight to keep out the air.
Set them in a dry cellar; and when taken out, cover the rest
GARDEN STAFFS AND FRUITS, 259>
close again. Wash those taken out very clean and let" tlrem
lie in soft water twenty-four hours, shifting the water fre-
quently ; and when boiled, do not put any salt in the water,
The Dutch Method of preserving French Beans.
TAKE a thousand French beans, when in full season, cue
them slanting, and as thin as possible ; then procure a stone
jar sufficient to contain them; in which deposit alternately
a layer of beans, and then of common table salt, observing
that the proportion of salt must be, for every thousand or
beans, about four pounds. When the jar is full, let it stand'
to the following day, and then press them down well till the
water overflows, and the harder they are pressed the better.
Cover them with a cloth within the jar, tight down upon the
beans, over which place a trencher the size of the inside of
the jar, and then a heavy weight on the top. It will be proper
now and then to take off the cloth and wash it clean, when it
must be put on again, as before-mentioned. By these means
the beans may be preserved for a considerable time. When,
dressed, let the quantity chosen be steeped the night before
in cold water. In the morning they must be well washed in
two or three fresh waters, and put into boiling water, letting-
them boil hard till they become tender, for which half an hour
will be sufficient. Take them off the fire, and stew themwittv
a little butter, when they will be fit for the table.
To keep Grapes,
WHEN the grapes are cut from the vine, take care to leave
a. joint of the stalk to them, and hang them up in a dry room,
at a proper distance from each other, that the bunches may
hung separate and clear of each other ;. for the air must pass
freely between them, or there will be danger of their growing
mouldy and rotten. The Frontiniac grape is the best for thk
purpose, which, if managed properly, will keep to the end. of
January at least.
To keep Green Peas till Christmas,
BE sure to choose peas for this purpose that' are young ancfc
fine; shell them, and throw them into boiling water with
some salt in it : let them boil five or six minutes, and then
throw them into a cullender to drain. Then lay a cloth four
or five times double on a table, and spread them on it. Dry
them well, and having bottles ready, fill them, and cover them
with mutton fat fried. When a little cool, fill the necks almost
to the top, cork them, tie a bladder over them, and set them
S2
260 GARDEN STUFFS AND FRUITS.
in a cool place. When used, boil the water, put in a little
salt, some sugar, and a piece of butter: when boiled enough,
throw them into a sieve to drain, and put them into a sauce-
pan, with a good piece of butter ; keep shaking it round all
the time till the butter is melted; then turn them into a dish,
and send them to table.
To keep Gooseberries.
BEAT an ounce of allum very fine, and put it into a large
pan of boiling hard water. Pick the gooseberries, put a few
in the bottom of a hak sieve, and hold them in the boiling
water till they turn white. Then take out the sieve, and
spread the gooseberries between two clean cloths. Put more
gooseberries in the sieve, and then repeat it till all are done.
Pijt the water into a glazed pot till next day ; then put the
gooseberries into wide-mouthed bottles, pick out all the
cracked and broken ones, pour the water clear out of the
Eot, and fill up the bottles with it. Cork them loosely, and
jt them stand for a fortnight. If they rise to the corks, draw
them out, and let them stand for three or four days uncorked;
Then cork them close, and they will keep several months.
Or, pick large green gooseberries on a dry day, and, hav-
ing taken care that the bottles are clean and clry, fill and
cork them. Set them in a kettle of water up to the neck,
let the water boil very slowly till the gooseberries, are cod-
dled ; then take them out, and put in the rest of the bottles
till all are done. Have ready some rosin melted in a pipkin,
dip the neck of the bottles into it, which will keep all the air
from getting in at the cork. Keep them in a cool, dry place,
free from damps, and they will bake as red as a cherry.
To dry Artichoke Bottoms.
JUST before the artichokes come to their full growth, pluck
them from the stalks, which will draw out all the strings from
the bottoms. Then boil them till the leaves can be easily
plucked off, then lay the bottoms on tins, and set them in a
cool oven. Repeat this till they are dry, which may be known
by holding them up against the light ; when, if they are dry
enough, they will be transparent. Hang them up in a dry
place, in paper bags.
To keep Walnuts.
PUT a layer of sea sand at the bottom of a large jar, and then
i la;:er of walnuts ; then sand, then the nuts, and so on till the
jar is lull ; but be sure they do not touch each other in any of
GARDEN STUFFS AND FRUITS. 261
the layers. When wanted for use, lay them in warm milk
and water for an hour, shift the water as it cools, and rub
them dry, and they will peel well and eat sweet. Lemons will
keep thus covered better than any other way.
To bottle Green Currants.
CURRANTS should be gathered when the sun is hot upon
them. Strip them from the stalks, and put them into glass bot-
tles. Cork them close, set them in dry sand, and they will
keep all the winter.
To keep Mushrooms.
TAKE large buttons, wash them in the same manner as for
stewing, and lay them on sieves with the stalks upwards.
Throw over them some salt, to fetch out the water. When
properly drained, put them in a pot, and set them in a cool
oven for an hour. Take them out carefully, and lay them to
cool and drain. Boil the liquor that comes out of them with
a blade or two of mace, and boil it half way. Put the mush-
rooms into a clean jar well dried ; and when the liquor is cold,
pour it into the jar, and cover the mushrooms with it. Then
pour over them rendered suet, tie a bladder over the jar, and
set them in a dry closet, where they will keep very well the
greater part of the winter. When used, take them out of the
liquor, pour over them boiling milk, and let them stand an
hour : stew them in the milk a quarter of an hour, thicken
them with flour, and a large quantity of butter ; but be care-
ful not to oil it. Beat the yolks of two eggs in a little cream,
and put it into the stew ; but do not let it boil after the eggs
are added. Lay untoasted sippets round the inside of the
dish, then serve them up, and they will eat nearly as good as
when fresh gathered. If they do not taste strong enough,
put in a little of the liquor. This is a very useful liquor, as
it will give a strong flavour of fresh mushrooms to all made
dishes.
Or, scrape, peel, and take out the insides of large flaps.
Boil them in their own liquor, with a little salt, lay them in
tins, set them in a cool oven, and repeat it till they are dry.
Then put them in clean jars, tie them down close, and keep
them for use.
Te bottle Cranberries.
CRANBERRIES for this purpose must be gathered when the
weather is quite dry, and put into dry clean bottles. Cork
them up close, and put them in a dry place, where neither
heats nor damps can get to them.
2 62 GARDEN STUFFS AND FRUITS.
To bottle Damsons.
GATHER damsons on a dry day, before they are ripe, or
rather when they have just turned their colour. Put them in
wide-mouthed bottles, cork them up closely, and let them
stand a fortnight ; then look them over, and if any of them
are mouldy or spotted, take them out, and cork the rest close
down. Set the bottles in sand, and they will keep good till
spring.
N. B. The method of preserving different kinds of fruits
in sweets and jellies, will be found in the Third Part, under the
.Chapter of PRESERVING.
French Method of preserving Sorrel.
HAVING washed sorrel clean, let it drain ; then melt a
pound of butter (or less according to the quantity of sorrel
meant to be preserved) in an earthen pot, and put the sorrel
on to boil. - When it is done enough, empty it out quite hot
into stone or earthen jars, the sides of which must be well
rubbed with butter, and let it stand until next morning. Then
melt some mutton or beef fat, to cover the top about an inch
thick, to prevent the air from getting- to the sorrel, as the
least particle of air would turn it mouldy.
French Method of preserving Endive.
THE endive must be first washed whole; then cut oif the
root, and, having tied an handful of the leaves together, put
them into an earthen pot to boil. When they have bubbled two
or three times, take them out and cut them into slices : range
them in pots with salt and water sufficient to cover them ; after
which, tie them down tight with a bladder and a piece of lea-
ther. If wished to be eaten alone, they must be boiled in
plain spring water, to take the salt out.
PART III.
CONFECTIONARY IN GENERAL,
CHAPTER I.
The Preparation of Sugars.
1 O prepare sugars properly is a material point in the bnsi
ness of confectionary ; and as some rules are undoubtedly ne-
cessary to be given in a work of this kind, we shall begin with
the first process, that of clarifying sugar, which must be doue
in this manner :
Break the white of an egg into the preserving-pan, put in
four quarts of water, and beat it up to a froth with a whisk
Then put in twelve pounds of sugar, mix all together, set it
over the fire, and when it boils, put in a little cold water.
Proceed in this manner as many times as may be necessary
till the scum appears thick on the top. Then remove it from
the fire, and let it settle ; take off the scum, and pass it
through a straining bag. If the sugar should not appear very
fine, you must boil it again before you strain it, otherwise, in
boiling to a height, it will rise over the pan. Having thus
finished the first operation, proceed to clarify the sugar to
either of the five following degrees :
First Degree, called Smooth or Candy Sugar.
HAVING clarified the sugar as above directed, put any quan-
tity over the fire, and let it boil till it is smooth. This may
be known by dipping the skimmer into the sugar, and then
touching it between the fore finger and thumb, and imme-
diately opening them, a small thread will be drawn between,
which will immediately break, and remain as a drop on the
thumb. This will be a sign of its being in some degree of
smoothness. Then give it another boiling, and it will draw
into a larger string, when it will have acquired the first de-
gree above mentioned.
264 SUGARS.
Second Degree , called Blown Sugar.
To obtain this degree, boil the sugar longer than in the
former process, and then dip in the skimmer, shaking off
the sugar into the pan. Then with the mouth blow strongly
through the holes, and if certain bladders or bubbles blow
through, it will be a proof of its having acquired the second
degree.
Third Degree, called Feathered Sugar.
THIS degree is to be proved by dipping the skimmer when
the sugar has boiled longer than in the former degree. First
shake it over the pan, then give it a sudden flirt behind, and
if it is enough, the sugar will fly off like feathers.
Fourth Degree, catted Crackled Sugar.
HAVING let the sugar boil longer than in the preceding
degree, dip a stick into the sugar, and immediately put it into
a pot or cold water. Draw off the sugar that hangs to the stick
into the water, and if it becomes hara, and snaps in the water,
it has acouirecl the proper degree ; but, if otherwise, boil it
till it answers that trial. Take particular care that the water
used for this purpose is very cold, otherwise it will lead into
errors.
Fifth Degree, Called Carmel Sugar.
To obtain this degree, the sugar must boil longer than in
either of the former operations : prove it by dipping in a stick,
first into the sugar, and then into cold water ; but observe,
when it comes to the carmel height, it, will, the moment it
touches the cold water, snap like glass, which is the highest
and last degree of boiled sugar. Take care that the fire is
not very fierce when this is boiling, lest, flaming up the sides
of the pan, it should cause the sugar to burn, which will dis-
colour and spoil it.
Little Devices in Sugar.
STEEP gum-tragacanth in rose-water, and with some double
refined sugar make it up into a paste : colour the paste with
powders and jellies according to fancy, and then make them
up into the requisite shape. Moulds may be made in any
shape, and they will be pretty ornaments placed on the tops
of iced cakes. In the middle of them put little pieces of
paper, with some pretty smart sentences written on them, and
they will afford much mirth to the younger part of a com-
pany.
TARTS AND P UFFS. 265
Sugar of Roses in various Figures.
CLIP off the white of rose-buds, and dry them in the sun.
Having finely pounded an ounce of them, take a pound of
loaf sugar. Wet the sugar in rose- water, and boil it to a candy
height. Put in the powder of roses, and the juice of lemon.
Mix all well together, put it on a pie-plate, and cut it into
lozenges, or make it into any other figure, such as men, wo-
men, or birds. Ornaments for the dessert, may be gilded or
coloured.
CHAPTER II.
TARTS AND PUFFS.
Different Sorts of Tarts.
\
N the eighteenth chapter of the first part of this work we have
given sufficient directions for making of puff paste for tarts,
and also the method of making tarts as well as pies ; what we
have therefore here to mention concerns only tarts and puffs
of the smaller kind. If you make use of tin patties to bake
in, butter them, and put a little crust all over them, otherwise
you cannot take them out; but if you bake them in glass or
china, youthen need use only an upper crust, as you will not
then want to take them out when you send them to table.
Lay fine sugar at the bottom, then your cherries, plumbs or
whatever sort you may want to put in them, and put sugar at
the top. Then put on your lid, and bake them in a slack
oven. Mince-pies must be baked in tin-patties, because of
taking them out, and puff paste is best for them. Apples and
pears, intended to be put into tarts, must be pared, cut into
quarters, and cored. Cut the quarters across again, set them
on a saucepan with as much water as will barely cover them,
and let them simmer on a slow fire just till the fruit be tender.
Put a good piece of lemon peel into the water with the fruit,
and then have your patties ready. Lay tine sugar at the
bottom, then your fruit, and a little sugar at top. Pour over
each tart a tea-spoonful of lemon juice, and three tea-spoons-
ful of the liquor they were boiled in. Then put on your lid,
and bake them in a slack oven. Apricot tarts may be made
the same, excepting that you must not put in any lemon juice.
266 TARTS AND PUFFS.
When you make tarts of preserved fruits, lay in your fruit,
and put a very thin crust at top. Let them be baked but a
little while ; and if you would have them very nice, have a
large patty, the size of your intended tart. Make your
sugar- crust, roll it as thin as a halfpenny, then butter your
patty and cover it. Shape your upper crust on a hollow thing
made on purpose, the shape of your patty, and mark it with
a marking-iron for that purpose, in what shape you please,
that it may be hollow and open to show the fruit through, it.
Then bake your crust in a very slack oven, that you may not
discolour it, and have it crisp. When the crust is cold, very
carefully take it t, and fill it with what fruit you please.
Then lay on the lid, and your business will be done.
Currants, Cherries, Gooseberries, and Apricot Tarts,
CURRANTS and raspberries make an excellent tart, and do
not require much baking. Cherries require but little baking.
Gooseberries, to look red, must stand a good while in the
oven. Apricots, if green, require more baking than when
ripe. Preserved fruit, as damsons and bullace, require but
little baking. Fruit that is preserved high, should not be
baked at all ; but the crust should first be baked upon a tin of
the size the tart is to be. Cut it with a marking-iron or not,
and when cold take it off, and lay it on the fruit.
Rhubarb Tarts.
TAKE the stalks of the rhubarb that grows in the garden,
peel it, and cut it into the size of a gooseberry, and make it
as gooseberry tart.
Raspberry Tart with Cream.
HAVING rolled out some thin puff paste, lay it in a patty-
pan ; lay in some raspberries, and strew over them some very
fine sugar. Put on the lid, and bake it, cut it open, and put
in half a pint of cream, the yolks of two or three eggs well
beaten, and a little sugar. Let it stand till cold before it is
sent to the oven.
Almond Tarts.
HAVING blanched some almonds, beat them very fine in a
mortar, with a little white wine and some sugar (a pound of
sugar to a poundof almonds) some grated bread, a little nut-
meg, some cream, and the juice of spinach to colour the al-
monds green. Bake it in a gentle oven ; and when it is done,
thicken it with can<iie<1 orange or citron.
TARTS AND PUFFS. 267
Green Almond Tarts.
TAKE some almonds off the tree before they begin to shell ;
scrape off the down with a knife ; have ready a pan with some
cold spring water, and put them into it as fast as they are done.
Then put them into a skillet, with more spring water, over a
very slow fire, till it just simmers. Change the water twice,
and let them be in the last till they begin to be tender. Then
take them out, and put them on a clean cloth, with another
over them, and press them to make them quite dry. Then
make a syrup with double refined sugar, put.them into it, and
let them simmer a little. Do the same the next day, put them
into a stone jar, and cover them very close, for, if the least
air comes to them, they will turn black. The yellower they
are before they are taken out of the water, the greener they
will be after they are done. Put them into the sugar crust,
put the lid down close, and let them be covered with syrup.
Bake them in a moderate oven.
Orange Tarts.
TAKE a Seville orange, and grate a little of the outside rind
off it ; squeeze the juice of it into a dish, throw the peels into
water, and change it often for four days. Then set a sauce-
pan of water on the fire, and when it boils, put in the oranges ;
but mind to change the water twice to take out the bitterness.
When they are tender, wipe them very well, and beat them in
a mortar till they are fine. Then take their weight in double
refined sugar, boil it into a syrup, and skim it very clean :
put in the pulp, and boil it altogether till it is clear. Let it
stand to be cold, then put it into the tarts, and squeeze in
the juice. Sake them in a quick oven. Good tarts are made
with conserve of oranges.
Chocolate Tarts.
RASP a quarter of a pound of chocolate, a stick of cinna-
mon, add some fresh lemon peel grated, a little salt, and some
sugar : take two spoonsful of fine flour, and the yolks of six
eggs well beaten, and mixed with some milk. Put all these
into a stewpan, and let them be a little over the fire : add a
little lemon peel cut small, and let it stand to be cold. Beat'
up the whites of eggs enough to cover it, and put it in puff
paste. When it is baked, sift some sugar over it, and glaze it
with a salamander.
'
268 TARTS AND PUFFS.
Angelica Tarts.
TAKE sonic golden pippins or nonpareils, pare and core
them ; take the stalks of angelica, peel them, and cut them
into small pieces; 'apples and angelica, of^each an equal quan-
tity. Boil the apples in just water enough to cover them,
with lemon peel and fine sugar. Do them very gently till
they are a thin syrup, and then strain it off. Put it on the
fire, with the angelica in it, and let it hoil ten minutes. Make
a puff paste, lay it at the bottom of the tin, and then a layer
of apples and a layer of angelica till it is full. Bake them,
but first fill them up with syrup.
Spinach Tarts.
SCALD some spinach in some boiling water, and drain it
very dry. Chop it, and stew it in some butter and cream,
with a very little salt, some sugar, some bits of citron, and a
very little orange-flower water. Put it in very fine puff
paste.
Petit Patties.
MAKE a short crust, roU it thick, and make them as big as
the bowl of a spoon, ana about an inch deep. Take a piece
of veal big enough to fill the patty, and as much bacon and
beef suet. Shred them all very fine, season them with pep-
per and salt, and a little sweet herbs. Put them into a little
stewpan, keep turning them about, with a few mushrooms
chopped small, for eight or ten minutes. Then fill the patties,
and cover them with crust. Colour them with the yolk of an
egg, and bake them. Some fill them with oysters, for fish
dishes, or the milts of the fish pounded, and 3tsoned with
pepper and salt.
Curd Puffs.
PUT a little rennet into two quarts of milk, and when it is
broken, put it into a coarse cloth to drain. Then rub the
curd through a hair sieve, and put to it four ounces of butter,
ten ounces of bread, half a nutmeg, a lemon peel grated, and
a spoonful of wine. Sugar it to the taste, rub the cups with
butter, and put them for little more than half an hour into
the oven.
Sugar Puffs.
BEAT the whites of ten eggs till they rise to a high froth '
rhen put them in a marble mortar or wooden bowl, and add
TARTS AND PUFFS. 26*
as much double refined sugar as will make it thick ; the* rub
it round the mortar for half an hour, put in a few carrawfay
seeds, and take a sheet of wafers, and lay it on as broad as a
sixpence, and as high as possible. Put them into a mode-
rately heated oven for a quarter of an hour, and they will look
as white as snow.
\
Wafers.
TAKE a spoonful of orange flower water, two spoonsful of
flour, two of sugar, and the same of cream. Beat them well
together for half an hour; then make the wafer-tongs hot,
and pour a little of the batter in to cover the irons. Bake
them on a stove fire, and as they are baking, roll them round
a stick like a spiggot. When cold, they will be very crisp,
and are very proper to be eaten with jellies, or with tea.
Chocolate Puffs,
HAVING beat and sifted half a pound of double-refined
sugar, scrape into it an, ounce of chocolate very fine, and mix
them together. Beat the white of an egg to a very high froth,
and strew in the sugar and chocolate. Keep beating it till it is
as stiff as a paste. Then sugar the paper, drop them on the
size of a sixpence, and bake them in a very slow oven.
, Almond Puffs.
TAKE two ounces of sweet almonds, blanch them, and beat
thein very fine with orange flower water. Beat the whites of
three eggs to a very high froth, and then strew in a little
sifted sugar. Mix the almonds with the sugar and eggs, and
then add more sugar till it be as thick as a paste. Lay it in
cakes, and bake it in a cool oven on paper,
Lemon Puffs.
TAKE a pound of double refined sugar, beat it and sift it
through a fine sieve. Put it into a bowl, with the juice of
two lemons, and beat them together. Then beat the white
of an egg to a very high froth ; put it into the bowl, beat it
half an hour, and then put in three eggs, with two rinds of
lemons grated. Mix it well up, and throw sugar on the
papers, drop on the puffs in small drops, and bake them in an
even moderately hot.
270 CAKES.
CHAPTER III.
CAKES.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
KE you begin to make any cake, take care that all your
ingredients are ready to your hand. Beat up your eggs
well, and then do not leave them to go about any thing else
till your cake is finished, as the eggs, by standing unrnixed r
will require beating again, which will contribute to make the
cake heavy. If butter is put into the cakes, be sure to beat
it to a fine cream before sugar is added, otherwise it will re-
quire double the beating, and after all will not answer the
purpose so well. Cakes made with rice, seeds, or plurnbs, are
best baked in wooden garths; for when baked either in pots
or tins, the outside of the cakes will be burned, and will be-
sides be so much confined, that the heat cannot penetrate
into the middle of the cake, which will prevent it from rising.
All kinds of cakes must be baked in a good oven, heated ac-
cording to the size of the cake.
A rich Cake.
TAKE seven pounds of currants washed and rubbed, four
pounds of flour dried and sifted, six pounds of the best fresh
butter, and two pounds of Jordan almonds, blanched andbeaj-
en with orange flower water till fine; four pounds of eggs, but
leave out the whites ; three pounds of double-refined sugar
beaten and sifted ; a quarter of an ounce of mace, the same
of cloves and cinnamon, and three large nutmegs, all beaten
fine ; a little ginger, half a pint of sack, half a pint of French
brandy, and sweetmeats, such as orange, lemon, and citron,
to the liking. Before mixing the ingredients, work the but-
ter to a creum. Then add the sugar, and work them well
together. Let the eggs be well beaten and strained through
a sieve : work in the almonds, then put in the eggs, and beat
them together till they look white and thick. Then put in
the sack, brandy, and spices ; shake in the flour by degrees,
and when the oven is ready, put in the currants and sweet-
meats, as it is put into the hoop. Put it into a quick oven,
and four hours will bake it. Remember to keep beating it
with the hand whilst mixing it; and when the currants are
CAKES. 271
well washed and cleaned, let them be kept before the fire, that
they may go warm into the cake. This quantity will bake
best in two hoops, it being too large for one.
Plum Cake.
To a pound and a half of fine flour, well dried, put the same
quantity of butter, three quartern of a pound of currants
washed and well picked; stone and slice half a pound of rai-
sins, eighteen ounces of sugar beat and sifted, and fourteen
eggs, leaving out half the whites; shred the peel of a large
lemon exceeding fine, three ounces of candied orange, the;
same of lemon, a tea spoonful of beaten mace, half a nut-
meg grated, a tea-cupful of brandy, or white wine, and four
spoonsful of orange flower. First work the butter with the
hand to a cream, then beat the sugar well in, whisk the eggs
for half an hour, then mix them with the sugar and butter, and
put in the flour and spices. The whole will take an hour and
a half beating. When the oven is ready, mix in lightly the
brandy, fruit, and sweetmeats, then put it into the hoop, and
bake it two hours and a half.
White Plum Cakes.
TAKE two pounds of flour well dried, half that quantity of
sugar beaten and sifted, a pound of butter, a quarter of an
ounce of nutmegs, the same of mace, sixteen eggs, two
pounds and a half of currants picked and washed, half a pound
of sweet almonds, the same of candied lemon, half a pint of
sack or brandy, and three spoonsful of orange flower water.
Beat the butter to a cream, put in the sugar, beat the whites
of the eggs half an hour, and mix them with the sugar and
butter. Then beat the yolks half an hour, and mix them
with the whites, which will take two hours beating. Put in
the flour a little before the oven is ready, and just before put-
ting it into the hoop, mix together lightly the currants, and
other ingredients. It will take two hours hours baking.
A Pound Cake.
BF.AT a pound of butter in an earthen pan with the hand
one way till like a fine thick cream. Then have ready twelve
eggs; but leave out half the whites; beat them well; then
beat them up with the butter, a pound of flour beat in it, a
pound of sugar, and a few carravvays. Beat all well together
with the hand for an hour, or beat it with a wooden spoon-
Put all into a buttered pan, and bake it in a qnick oven for
one hour.
CAKES.
. Rice Cakes.
BEAT the yolks of fifteen eggs for near half an hour with
a whisk. Put to them ten ounces of loaf sugar sifted fine, and
beat it well in. Then put in half a pound of rice flour, a little
orange water or brandy, and the rinds of two lemons grated.
Then put in seven whites (having first beaten them well neav
an hour \vith a whisk), and beat them all well together for a
quarter of an hour. Then put them in a hoop, and set them
for half an hour in a quick oven.
Cream Cakes.
TAKE the whites of nine eggs, and beat them to a stinFroth.
Stir it gently with a spoon, lest the froth should fall; and to
every white of an egg grate the rinds of one lemon. Shake in
softly a spoonful of double refined-sugar, sifted fine ; lay a wet
sheet of paper on a tin, and with a spoon drop the froth in
little lumps on it, at the same distance from each other. Sift
a good quantity of sugar, over them, set them in an oven after
brown bread, then n.ake' the oven close up, and the froth will
rise. They will be baked enough as soon as they are co-
loured. Then take them but, and put two bottoms together ;
lay them on a sieve, and set them to dry in a cool oven. Or,
before closing the bottoms together to dry, lay raspberry jam,
or any kind of sweetmeats, between them.
Macaroons.
TAKE a pound of sweet almonds blanched ^and beaten, and
put to them a pound of sugar, and a little rose water to keep
them from oiling. Then beat the whites of seven eggs to a
froth, and put them in, and beat- them well together. Drop
them on. wafer-paper, grate sugar .over them, and put them
into the oven.
Lemon Biscuits.
TAKE the yolks of ten eggs, atfd the whites of five, and
beat them well together, with four spoonsful of orange flower
water, till they froth up. Then put in a pound of loaf sugar
sifted, beat it one way for half an hour pr more, put in half a
pound of flour, with the" raspings of two lemons, and the pulp
of a small one. Butter the tin, and bake it in a quick oven ;
but do not stop up the mouth at first, for fear it should scorch.
Dust it with sugar beforejmtting it into the oven,
CAKES. 273
French Biscuits.
TAKE a pair of clean scales ; in one scale put three new-
laid eggs, and in the other the same weight of dried floui.
Have ready the same weight of fine powdered sugar. First
beat up the whites of the eggs well with a whisk, till they are
of a fine fioth; then whip in half an ounce of candied lemon
peel cut very thin and fine, and beat well ; then by degrees
whip in the flour and sugar ; then put in the yolks, and with a
spoon temper thejn well together. Shape the biscuits on fine
white paper vith a spoon, and throw powdered sugar over
them. Bake them in a moderate oven, not too hot, giving
them a fine colour on the top. When- they are baked, with a
fine k/rife cut them oft' from the paper, and lay them up for use
in dry boxes.
Sponge Biscuits.
TAKE twelve eggs, and beat the yolks of them for half an
hour; then put in a pound and a half of sugar beat and sifted,
and whisk it '.ell till it rise in bubbles. Then beat the whites
to a strong froth, and whisk them well with the sugar and
yolks. Beat in fourteen ounces of flour, with the rinds of
two lemons grated. Bake them in tin moulds buttered, and
let them have a hot oven, but do not stop the mouth of it.
They will take half an hour baking; but remember to sift
pounded sugar over them before they are put into the oven.
Drop Biscuits.
TAKE the whites of six eggs, and the yolks of ten. Beat them
up with a spoonful of rose water for half an hour, and then
put in ten ounces of beaten arid sifted loaf sugar. Whisk them
well for half an hour, and then add an ounce of carraway seeds
crushed a little, and six ounces of fine flour. Whisk in the
flour gently, drop them on wafer papers, and bake them in an
oven moderately heated.
Spanish Biscuits.
TAKE the yolks of eight eggs, and beat them half an hour,
and beat in eight spoonsful of sugar. Beat the whites to a
strong froth, and then beat them well, with the yolks and'
sugar near half an hour. Put in four spoonsful of Horn-, and
a little lemon peel cut exceedingly fine. Bake them oa
papers.
'274
Common Biscuits.
TAKE eight eggs, and beat them half an hour. Then put in
a pound of beaten and sifted sugar, with the rind of a lemon
grated. Whisk i an hour, or till it looks light, and then put
in a, pound of flour, with a litvle rose water. Sugar them
over, and bake them in tins or on papers.
Gingerbread Cakes.
TAKE three pounds of flour, a pound of sugar, the same
quantity of butter rolled in very fine, two ounces of ginger
beat fine, and a large nutmeg grated : then take a pound of
treacle, a quarter of a pint of cream, and make them warm
together. Make up the bread stiff, roll it out, and make it
up into thin cakes. Cut th-. j m out with a tea-cup or small
glass, or roll them round like nuts, and bake them in a slack
oven on tin plates.
Green Caps.
HAVING gathered as many codlins as are wanted, just before
they are ripe, green them in the same manner as for preserv-
ing ; then rub them over with a little oiled butter, grate
double-refined sugar over them, and set them in the oven till
thev look bright, aad sparkle like frost: take them out, and
put them into a china dish ; make a very fine custard, and
pour it round them. Stick single flowers in every apple, and
serve them up.
Black Caps.
TAKE out the cores, and cut into halves twelve large apples.
Place them on a tin patty-pan as closely as they can lie, with
the fl t side downward. Squeeze a lemon into two spoonsful
of orange-flower water, and pour it over them. Shred some
lemon peel fine, and throw over them, and grate fine sugar
over all. Set them in a quick oven, and half an hour will do
them. Throw fine sugar all over the dish, when sent to
table.
Bath Cakes.
,
TAKE a pound of butter, and rub it into an equal weight of
flour, with a spoonful of good barm. Warm some cream, and
make it into a light paste. Set it to the fire to rise, and when
making them up, take four ounces of carraway comfits, work
part of -hum in, and strew the rest on the top. Make them
into a. round cake, the size of a French roll. Bake them on
CAKES. 275
.sheet tins, and they will eat well hot for breakfast, or at tea
jn the afternoon.
Portugal Cakes.
TAKE a pound of fine flour, and mix it with a pound of
beaten and sifted loaf sugar: then rub it into a pound of fresh
butter till it is thick like grated white bread. Put to it two
spoonsful of rose water, two of sack, and ten eggs ; whip them
well with a whisk, and mix into it eight ounces of currants.
Mix all well together, butter the tin pans, and fill them about
half full, and bake them. If they are made without currants
the}' will keep half a year. Add a pound of almonds blanch-
ed, and beat them with rose water, as above directed, but
leave out the flour.
Shrewsbury Cakes.
BEAT half a pound of butter to a fine cream, and put in
the same weight of flour, one egg, six ounces of beaten and
sifted loaf sugar, and half an ounce of carraway seeds. Mix
them into a paste, roll them thin, and cut them round with a
small glass or little tins; prick them, lay them on sheets of
tin, and bake them in a slow oven.*
Saffron Cakes.
TAKE a quartern of fine (lour, a pound and a half of but-
ter, three ounces of carraway seeds, six eggs well beaten, a
quarter of an ounce of cloves and mace finely beaten toge-
ther, a little cinnamon pounded, a pound of sugar, a little rose
water and saffron, a pint and a half of yeast, and a quart of
milk. Mix all together lightlv with the hands in this manner:
first boil the milk and butter, then skim off the butter, and
mix it with the flow and a little of the milk. Stir the yeast
into the rest, and strain it: mix it with the flour, put in the
seeds and spice, rose water, tincture of saffron, sugar, and
eggs : beat it all well up lightly with the hands, and bake it in
a hoop or pan well buttered. .It will take an hour and a half
in a quick oven. The seeds may be omitted ; and some think
the cake ia better without them.
Prussian Cakes.
TAKE half a pound of dried flour, a pound of beaten and
sifted sugar, the yolks and whites of seven eggs beaten sepa-
rately, the juice of a lemon, the peels of two finely grated,
and half a pound of almonds beaten fine with rose water. As
soon as the whites are beaten to a froth, put in the yolks, and
T 2
276 CAKES.
every thing else, except the flour, and beat them together for
half an hour. Shake in the flour just before it is set into the
oven ; and be sure to remember to beat the yolks and whites
of the eggs separately, or the cake will be heavy.
Apricot Cakes*
SCALD a pound of nice ripe apricots, and peel them, and
take out the stones as soon as the skin will come off. Then
beat them in a mortar to a pulp ; boil half a pound of double
refined sugar, with a spoonful of water, and skim it exceed-
ingly well. Then put in the pulp of the apricots, let them
simmer a quarter of an hour over a slow fire) and stir it
softly all the time. Then pour it into shallow flat glasses,
turn them out upon glass plates, put them into a stove, and
turn them once a day till they are dry.
Quince Cakes.
TAKE a pint of the syrup of quinces, and a quart or two of
raspberries. Boil and clarify them over a gentle fire, taking
care to skim it as often as may be necessary. Then a pound
and a half of sugar, and as much more brought to a candy
height, which must be poured in hot. Constantly stir the
whole about till almost cold, and then spread it on plates,
and cut it out into cakes.
Orange Cakes.
QUARTER Seville oranges that have very good rinds, and
boil them in two or three waters until they are tender, and
the bitterness gone off. Skim them, and then lay them on a
clean napkin to dry. Take all the skins, and seeds out of the
pulp, with a knife shred the peels fine, put them to the pulp,
weigh them, and put rather more than their weight of fine
sugar into a tossing-pan, with just as much water as will dis-
solve it. Boil it till it becomes a perfect sugar, and then, by
degrees, put in the orange peels and. pulp. Stir them well
before setting them on the fire; boil it very gently till it looks
clear and thick, and then put them into flat-bottomed glasses.
Set them in a stove, and keep them in a constant and mode-
rate heat : and when they are candied on the top, turn them
out upon glasses.
Lemon Cakes.
TAKE the whites of ten eggs, put to them three spoonsful
of rose, or orange flower water, and beat them an hour with a
vhi.sk. Then put in a pound of beaten and sifted sugar, and
CAKES. 217
grate into it the rind of a lemon. When well mixed, put
in the juice of half a lemon, and the yolks often eggs beaten
smooth. Just before putting it into the oven, stir in three
quaaci of a pound of flour, butter the pan, put it into a mo-
dei-ate oven, and an hour will bake it. Orange cakes may be
made in the same manner.
Bride Cakes.
TAKE two pounds of loaf sugar, four pounds of fresh but-
ter, and the same quantity of fine well dried flour ; pound and
sift fine a quarter of an ounce of mace, the same of nutmegs,
and to every pound of flour put eight eggs ; wash four pounds
of currants, and pick them well, and dry them before the
fire; blanch a pound of sweet almonds, and cut them length-
ways very thin ; a pound of citron, a pound of candied orange,
the same of candied lemon, and half a pint of brandy. First
work the butter to a cream with the hand, then beat in the
sugar a quarter of an hour, and beat the whites of the eggs to
a very strong froth. Mix them with the sugar and butter,
beat the yolks half an hour at least, and mix them with the
cake. Then put in the flour, mace, and nutmeg, and keep
beating it well till the oven is ready. Put in the brandy, and
beat the currants and almonds lightly in. Tie three sheets of
paper round the bottom of the hoop, to keep it from running
out, and rub it well with butter. Then put in the cake, and
lay the sweetmeats in three layers, witli some cake between
every layer. As soon as it is risen and coloured, cover it with
paper before the oven is covered up. It must be baked three
hours. If approved, put an icing on it. See Icing.
Little Fine Cakes.
TAKE a pound of butter beaten to a cream, a pound and
a quarter of flour, a pound of sugar beaten fine, a pound of
currants clean washed and picked, and the yolks of six and
the whites of four eggs. Beat them fine, and mix the flour,
sugar, and eggs, by degrees, into the butter. Beat all well
with both hands, and make them into little cakes.
Or, take a pound of flour, and half a pound of sugar, beat
half a pound of butter with the hand, and mix them well to-
gether.
Snow Balls.
PARE and take out the cores of five large baking apples,
and fill the holes with orange or quince marmalade : then
make some good puff paste, roll the apples in it, and
'278 CAKES.
the crust of an equal thickness. Put them in a tin dripping-
pan, b.>ke them in .a moderate oven, and when taken out,
mako icing lor them. Let the icing be about a q arter of an
inch thick, and set them at a good distance from the fire till
they are hnrdened ; but take care not to let them brown.
Put one in the middle of a dish, and the others round it.
Little Plum Cakes.
TAKE half a pound of sugar finely powdered, tvo pounds of
flour well dried, four yolks and two white? of eggs, half a
pound of butter washed with rose water, six spoonsful of
cream warmed, arid a pound and a half ot currants unwashed,
but picked, and rubbed very clean in a cloth. Mix all well
together ; make them up into cakes, bake them m a ; ot oven,
and let them stand half an hour till the\ 7 are coloured on both
sides. Then take down ti:e oven lid, and let tiu-m *tand 10
smoke. Rub the butter well into the flour, then the eggs and
cream, and then the currants.
JRafifia Cakes.
FIRST blanch, and then beat half a pound of sweet almonds
and the same quantity of bitter almonds, in fine orange, rose,
or ratifia water, to keep the almonds from oiling. Take a
pound of fine sugar pounded, and sifted, and mix it with the
almonds. Have ready the white of four eggs well beaten,
and mix them lightly with the almonds and sugar. Put it
into a preserving pan, and set it over a moderate fire. Keep
stirring it one way until it is pretty hot, and when a little
cool, roll it in small rolls, and cut it into thin cakes. Dip
the hands in flour, and shake them on them ; give each of
them a light tap with the finger, and put them on sugar
papers. Just before putting them into a slow oven silt a
little sugar over them.
Nuns Cakes.
TAKE four pounds of the finest flour, and three pounds of
double refined sugar beaten and sifted. Mix them well to-
gether, and let them stand before the fire till the other mate-
rials are prepared. Then beat four pounds of butter with
the hand till it be as soft as cream ; beat the yolks of thirty-
five eggs and the whites of sixteen, strain off the eggs from
the treads, and beat them and the butter together till they are
finely incorporated. Put in four or five spoonsful of orange-
flower or rose water, and beat it again. Then take the flour
and sugar, with six ounces of carraway seeds, and strew them
Ik* by degrees, beating it up for two Hours together. Put in
CAKES. 279
as much tincture of cinnamon as is approved. Then butter
the hoop,- and let it stand three hours in a moderate oven.
In beating butter, always observe to do it with a cool hand,
and always beat it in a deep earthen dish, one way.
Seed Cakes.
TAKE a pound of sugar beaten and sifted, the same quantity
of butter, the same or well dried flour, two ounces of carra-
way seeds, eight eggs, a nutmeg grated, and its weight of
cinnamon. First beat the butter to a cream, then put in the
sugar; beat the whites of the es^gs half an hour, and mix
theni with the sugar and butter, i hen beat the yolks half an
hour, and put the whites to them. A little before it goes to
the oven, beat in the flour, spices, and seeds. The whole will
take two hours beating. Put it into the hoop, and bake it two
hours in a quick oven.
Queen Calces.
BEAT and sift a pound of loaf-sugar, take a pound of well
dried flour, a pound of butter, eight eggs, half a pound of
currants washed and picked, grate a nutmeg, and the same
quantity of mace and cinnamon. Work the butter to a cream,
and put in the sugar. Beat the whites of the eggs near half
an hour, and mix them with the sugar and butter. Then beat
the yolks near half an hour, and put them to the butter. Beat
them exceedingly well together, and when they are ready for
the oven, put in the flour, spice, and currants. Sift a little
sugar over them, and bake them in tins.
Currant Cakes.
DRY well before the fire a pound and a half of fine flour,
take a pound of butter, half a pound of fine loaf sugar well
beaten and sifted, four yolks of eggs, four spoonsful of rose
water, the same of sack, a little mace, and a nutmeg grated.
Beat the eggs well, and put them to the rose water and sack.
Then put to them the sugar and butter. Work them all to-
gether, strew in the currants and flour, having taken care to
have them ready warmed for mixing. Make six or eight
cakes of them ; but mind to bake them of a fine brown, ano^
pretty crisp.
Whigs.
PUT half a pint of warm milk to three quarters of a pound
of fine flour, and mix in it two or three spoonsful of light
280 CUSTARDS AND CHEESECAKES.
'barm. Cover it up, and set it before the fire an hour, in order
to make it rise. Work into the paste four ounces of sugar,
and the same quantity of butter. Make it into whigs with as
little flour as possible, and a few seeds, and bake them in a
quick oven.
Icings for Cakes.
WHISK the whites of four eggs to a solid froth ; and add to
.them as much sifted treble-refined sugar as they will take :
add the juice of a lemon strained, mix all together with a
spoon, and spread over the cake whilst warm.
CHAPTER IV.
CUSTARDS AND CHEESECAKES,
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
1 HE greatest care must be taken in the making of custards,
that your tossing-pan is well tinned ; and always remember to
put a spoonful of water into your pan, to prevent your ingre-
dients sticking to the bottom of it ; and what we have here said
of custards, must be attended to in the making of creams, of
which we shall treat in the next chapter. Cheesecakes must
not be made long before they are put into the oven, particu-
larly almond or lemon cheesecakes, as standing long will make
them grow oily, and give them a disagreeable appearance.
They should always be baked in ovens of a moderate heat ;
for if the oven be too hot, it will burn them, and spoil their
beauty, and too slack an oven will make them look black and
heavy. This is a matter, however, for which no precise rules
can be given, and can be learned only by cautious practice and
the nicest observations.
Baked Custards.
BOIL a pint of cream with some mace and cinnamon, and
when it is cold, take four yolks and two whites of eggs, a
little jree and orange flovrer-water and sack, arid nutmeg and
sugaj.to the palate. Mix them well together, and bake them
in cups.
CUSTARDS AND CHEESECAKES. 281
Almond Custards.
BLANCH and beat a quarter of a pound of almonds very
fine, take a pint of cream, and two spoonsful of rose water.
Then sweeten it to the palate, and beat up the yolks of four
eggs. Stir all together one way over the fire till it is thick,
and then pour it into cups.
Plain Custards.
SET a quart of good cream over a slow fire, with a little
cinnamon, and four ounces of sugar. When it has boiled,
take it off the fire, beat the yolks of eight eggs, and put to
them a spoonful of orange-flower water, to prevent the cream
from cracking. Stir them in by degrees as the cream cools,
put the pan over a very slow fire, stir it carefully one way till
it is almost boiling, and then pour it into cups.
Or, take a quart of new milk, sweeten it to the taste, beat
up well the yolks of eight eggs, End the whites of four. Stir
them into the milk, and bake it in custard cups. Or, put them
in a deep china dish, and pour boiling water round them, till
the water is better than half way up their sides ; but take
care the water does not boil too fast, lest it should get into the
cups, and spoil the custards.
Orange Custards.
HAVING boiled very tender the rind of half a Seville
orange, beat it in a mortar, till it is very fine, put to it a
spoonful of the best brandy, the juice of a Seville orange,
four ounces of loaf sugar, and the yolks of four eggs. Beat
them all well together for ten minutes, and then pour in by
degrees a pint of boiling cream. Keep beating them till cold,
then put them in custard cups, and set them in an earthen dish
of hot water. Let them stand till they are set, then take
them out, and stick preserved orange on the top. They may
be served up either hot or cold.
Lemon Custards.
TAKE half a pound of double-refined sugar, the juice of
two lemons, the out-rind of one pared very thin, the inher-
rind of one boiled tender and rubbed through a sieve, and a
pint of white wine. Let them boil a good while, take out the
peel and a little of the liquor and set it to cool : pour the rest
into the dish intended for it, beat the yolks and two whites of
eggs, and mix them with the cold liquor. Strain them into
the dish, stir them well up together, and set them on a slow
282 CUSTARDS AND CHEESKCAKfiS.
fire in boiling water. When it is enough, grate the rind of a
lemon all over the tcp, or brown it over with a hot salaman-
der. This, like the former, may be eaten either hot or cold.
Beest Custards.
SET a pint of beest (milk taken from the cow within three
days of her calving) over the fire, with a little cinnamon, or
three bay leaves, and let it be boiling hot : take it off, and
have ready mixed a spoonful of flour, and the same of thick
cream. Pour the hot beest upon it by degrees, mix it ex-
ceedingly well together, and sweeten it to the taste. You
may bake it .in either crusts or cups.
Cheesecakes.
PUT a spoonful of rennet into a quart of new milk, and set
it near the fire; let the milk be blood warm, and when it is
broken, drain the curd through a coarse sieve. Now and
then break the curd gently with the fingers, and rub into it
a quarter of a pound of butter, the same quantity of sugar, a
nutmeg, and t-vo Naples biscuits grated , the ^olksoi four
eggs and the white of one, and an ounce ot' almonds well
beaten, with two spoonsful of rose wa^er, and the same of
sack. Clean six ounces of currants weii, and put nem into
the curd. Mix all well together, and send it to the oven.
Citron Cheesecakes.
BEAT the yolks of four eggs, and mix them with a quart of
boiled cream. When it is coid, set it on the fire, and let it
boil till it curds. Blanch some almonds,. beat them with orange-
flower water, put them into the cream, with a few Naples
biscuits, and green citron shred fine. Sweeten it to the pa-
late, and bake it in cups.
l*emon Cheesecakes.
BOIL very tender the peel of two large lemons, and pound
t well in a mortar, with a quarter of a pound of loaf suoar,
the yolks of six eggs, half a pound of fresh butter, and a little
curd beat fine. Pound and mix all together, lay a puff paste
on the patty pans, fill them half full, and bake them. Orange
jesecakes are done the same way; but boil the peel in tvvo
or three waters, to deprive it of its bitter taste.
Almond Cheesecakes.
BLANCH four ounces of Jordan almonds, and put them into
d water ; beat them with rose water, in a marble mortar or
CUSTARDS AND CHEESECAKES. 283
wooden bowl, and put to them four ounces of sugar, and the
yolks of tour eggs beat fine. Work it in the bowl or mortar
till it becomes frothy and white, and then make a rich puff
paste in this manner : Take half a pound of flour, a quarter of
a pound of Itutter, and rub a little of the butter into the flour.
Mix it stiff with a little cold water, then roll the paste straight
out, throw over it a little flour, and lay over it one third of
the butter in thin bits. Throw a little more flour over the
butter, and do so for three times. Then put the paste in tins,
fill them, grate sugar over them, and put them in a gentle oven
to bake.
Curd Cheesecakes.
BEAT half a pint of good curds with four eggs, three spoons-
ful of rich cream, half a nutmeg grated, and a spoonful of
ratifia, rose, or orange water. Put to them a quarter of a
pound of sugar and half a pound of currants well washed and
dried before the fire. Mix them all well together, put a good
crust into patty pans, and bake them.
Bread Cheesecakes.
HAVING sliced a penny loaf as thin as possible, pour on it
a pint of boiling cream, and let it stand two hours: then
take eight eggs, hall a pound of butter, and a nutmeg grated.
Beat them well together, and put in half a pound of currants
well washed and dried before the lire, and a spoonful of white
wine or brandy. Bake them in patty pans or raised crust.
Rice Cheesecakes.
TAKE four ounces of rice, and having boiled till it be ten-,
der, put it in a sieve to drain. Then put in four eggs well
beaten, half a pound of butter, halt a pint of cream, six ounces
of sugar, a nutmeg grated, and a glass of brandy or ratifia
water Beat them all well together, and put them into raised
crusts, and bake them.
Fine Cheesecakes.
WARM a pint of cream, and put to it five quarts of milk
warm from the cow. Then put to it rennet, give it a stir
about, and when it is- turned, put the curd into a linen cloth
or bag. Let it drain well away from the whey, but do not
sqiu eze it too much. Then put it into a mortar, and break
the curd as fine as butter. Put to the curd half a pound of
sweet almonds blanched and beaten exceedingly fine, and half
a pound of macaroons beaten very fine, or Naples biscuits', add
284 CREAMS AND JAMS.
to it the yolks of nine eggs beaten, a nutmeg grated, two
perfumed plums dissolved in rose or orange .flower water,
and half a pound of fine sugar. Mix all well together, then
melt a pound and a quarter of butter, and stir it well in.
Make a puff paste in this manner: Take a pound of fine
Hour, wet it with cold water, roll it out, put into it by degrees
a pound of fresh butter, and shake a little flour on each coat
whilst rolling it. Finish the cake in the manner before di-
rected. The perfumed plums, may be left out, if disliked.
CHAPTER V.
CREAMS AND JAMS.
Steeple Cream.
1 ARE two ounces of ivory shavings, and five ounces of harts-
horn shavings, and put them in a stone bottle ; fill it up to the
neck with water, and add a small quantity of gum-arabic and
gum-tragacanth : tie up the bottle very close, and set it into
a pot of water, with hay at the bottom of it. Let it stand six
hours, take it out, and let it stand an hour before opening it,
lest it fly about : strain it, and it will be a strong jelly. Take
a pound of blanched almonds beaten very fine, and mix it with
a pint of thick cream, let it stand a little, then strain it out,
and mix it with a pound of jelly. Set it over the fire till
scalding hot, and sweeten to the taste with double-refined
sugar : take it off, put in a little amber, and pour it into small
high moulds like a sugar-loaf at top ; when cold, turn them
out, and lay cold whipt cream about them in heaps : take care
that it is not suffered to boil after the cream is put into it.
Pistachio Cream.
TAKE out the kernels of half a pound of pistachio nuts, and
beat them in a mortar with a spoonful of brandy. Put them
into a tossing-pan, with a pint of good cream, and the yolks
of two eggs beaten fine. Stir it gently over a slow fire till
it grows thick, and then put it into a china dish. When
it grows cold, stick it all over with small pieces of the nuts,
and it will be ready for table.
C RE A MS AND JAMS . 285
Hartshorn Cream.
BOIL four ounces of hartshorn shavings in three pints of
water till reduced to half a pint, and run it through a jelly-
bag : put to it a pint of cream, and let it just boil up; put it
into jelly-glasses, let it stand till cold, and then, by dipping
the glasses into scalding water, it will slip out whole : stick them
all over with slices of almonds cut lengthways. It eats well,
like flummery, with white wine and sugar.
Burnt Cream.
TAKE a little lemon peel shred fine, and boil it with a pint
of cream and some sugar ; take the yolks of six eggs and
the whites of four, and beat them separately ; put in the eggs
as soon as the cream is cooled, with a spoonful of orange
flower water, and one of fine flour. Set it over the fire, keep
stirring it till it is thick, and then put it into a dish. When
cold, sift a quarter of a pound of fine sugar all over it, and
salamander it till very brown.
Barley Cream.
BOIL a small quantity of pearl barley in milk and water till
tender, and strain the liquor from it ; put the barley into a
quart of cream, and let it boil a little: take the whites of five
eggs and the yolk of one, beaten with a spoonful of fine flour,
and two spoonsful of orange-flower water ; take the cream off
the fire, mix in the eggs by degrees, and set it over the fire
again to thicken. Then sweeten it to the taste, and pour it
into basons for use.
Ice Creams.
TAKE a pint and a half of good cream, add to it half a.
pound of raspberry or any other jam, (or half a pound of the
pulp of any kind of ripe fruics stoned, beaten in a mortar,
and pulped through a sieve) ; mix well with sifted sugar,
and rub through a fine sieve : put it into a freezing mould,
set it in ice and salt, and stir together till it begins to con-
geal : cover the bottom of the shape mould with white paper,
and having put on the bottom, fill with the cream ; cover
the top with white paper, put on the cover, and set in ice till
well frozen : when turned out for table, dip the mould in cold
water, take off the top paper and cover ; take also off the
bottom cover, and push through the mould with the bottom
paper.
236 CREAMS AND JAMS.
A Tnjle.
COVER the bottom of a trifle dish with Naples biscuits
broken into pieces, mactiroons broken in half, an I ratifi*
cakes ; just wet them all through \\ ith white wine, and make
a good boiled custard, not too thick, and when cold, put it
over it, and then a syllabub over that : garnish with ratifia
cakes, currant jelly, and coloured comfits.
Or, having placed three iarge macaroons in the middle of
a dish, pour as much white wine over them as will perfectly
moisten them ; take a quart of cream, and put in as much
sugar as will sweeten it ; but first rub the sugar over the rind
of a lemon to get out the essence : put the cream into a pot,
mill it to a strong froth, and lay as much froth upon a sieve
as will fill the trifle dish; put the remainder of the cream into
a tossing-pan, with a stick of cinnamon, the yolks of four
eggs well beaten, and as much sugar as will sweeten it. Set
them over a gentle fire, stir it one way till it is thick, and then
take it off the fire: pour it upon the macaroons, and when
it is cold, put on the frothed cream, lay round it different
coloured sweetmeats, and figures.
Tea Cream.
BOIL a quarter of an ounce of fine hyson tea with half a
pint of milk, strain out the leaves, and put to the milk half a
pint of cream, and two spoonsful of rennet : set it over some
hot embers in the dish in which it is intended to be sent to
table, and cover it with a tin plate : when it is thick, it will be
enough. Garnish with sweetmeats.
Ratifia Cream.
BOIL two laurel leaves in a quart of thick milk, with a little
ratifia, and when it has boiled, throw away the leaves. Beat
the yolks of five eggs with a little cold cream, and sugar to the
taste : thicken the cream with the eggs, set it over the fire
again, but do not let it boil; stir it all the while one way, till
it is thick', and then pour it into china dishes, to cool for use.
Spanish Cream.
TAKE a quarter of a pint of rose water, and dissolve it in
three quarters of an ounce of isinglass cut small : run it through
a hair sieve, and add to it the yolks of three eggs, beaten and
mixed with half a pint of cream, two sorrel leaves, and sugar
it to the taste: dip the dish in cold water before putting in the
cream, then cut it out with a jigging iron, and lay it in rings
round different coloured sweetmeats.
CREAMS AND JAMS. 287
Lemon Cream.
TAKE the rinds of two lemons pared very thin, the juice of
three, and a pint of spring water ; beat the whites of six eggs
very fine, and mix them with the water and lemon. Then
sugar it to the taste, and stir till it thickens, but take care it
does not boil : strain it through a cloth, beat the yolks of six
eggs, and put it over the fire to thicken ; then pour it into a
bowl, and put into glasses as soon as it is cold.
Orange Cream.
PARE off the rind of a Seville orange very fine, and squeeze
the juice of four oranges; put them into a tossing pan, with
a pint of water, and eight ounces of sugar ; beat the whites
of five eggs, and mix all, and set them over the fire : stir it
one way till it grows thick and white, then strain it through a
gauze, and stir it till it is cold. Beat the yolks of five eggs
exceedingly fine, and put it into the pan, with some cream ;
stir it over a very slow fire till it is ready to boil, then put it
into a bason to cool, and having stirred it till it is quite cold,
put it into glasses.
Raspberry Cream.
RUB a quart of raspberries, or raspberry jam, through a hair
sieve, to take out the seeds, and mix it well with cream. Put
in sugar to the taste, and then put it into a milk-pot to raise a
froth with a chocolate mill. As the froth rises, take it off with
a spoon, and lay it upon a hair sieve. When there is as
much froth as is wanted, put what cream remains into a deep
china dish, pour the frothed cream upon it as high as it will lie
on, and stick a light flower in the middle of it.
Chocolate Cream.
TAKE a quarter of a pound of the best chocolate, and
having scraped it fine, put to it as much water as will dissolve
it ; then beat it half an hour in a mortar, and put in as much
fine sugar as will sweeten it, and a pint and a half of cream.
Mill it, and as the froth rises, lay it on a sieve. Put the re-
mainder of the cream, into glasses, and lay the frothed cream
upon them.
Whipt Cream.
TAKE the whites of eight eggs, a quart of thick cream, and
half a pint of sack ; mix it together, and sweeten it to the taste
with double-refined sugar : it may be perfumed if approved
288 CREAMS AND JAMS.
of, with a little musk or ambergris tied in a rag, and steeped
a little in the cream. Whip it up with a whisk, and some
lemon peel tied in the middle of the whisk ; take the froth
with a spoon, and lay it in glasses. This makes a pretty ap-
pearance over fine tarts.
Pompadour Cream.
TAKE the whites of five eggs, and beat them to a strong
froth ; put them into a tossing pan, with two spoonsful of
orange-flower water, and two ounces of sugar ; stir it gently
for three or four minutes, then pour it into a dish, and pour
good melted butter over it. This is a pretty corner dish for a
second course at dinner, and must be served up hot.
Snow and Cream.
HAVING made a rich boiled custard, put it into a china or
glass dish ; then take the whites of eight eggs beaten with
rose water and a spoonful of treble-refined sugar, till it is of
a strong froth : put some milk and water into a broad stew-
pan, and as soon as it boils, take the froth off the eggs, lay it
on the milk and water, and let it boil once up. Then take
it off carefully, and lay it on the custard. This is a pretty
supper dish.
Gooseberry Jam.
CUT in two, and pick out the seeds of green walnut goose-
berries, gathered when full grown, but not ripe ; put them
into a pan of water, green them, and put them into a sieve to
drain. Then beat them in a marble mortar, with their weight
of sugar. Take a quart of gooseberries, boil them to a mash
in a quart of water, squeeze them, and to every pint of liquor
put a pound of fine loaf sugar. Then boil and skim it, put
in the green gooseberries, and having boiled them till very
thick, clear, and of a pretty green, put them into glasses.
Apricot Jam.
HAVING procured some of the ripest apricots, pare and cut
them thin ; then infuse them in an earthen pan till tender and
dry: to every pound 1 and a half of apricots, put a pound of
double refined sugar, and three spoonsful of water. Boil
the sugar to a candy height, and put it upon the apricots: stir
them over a slow tire till they look clear and thick; but ob-
serve, that they must only simmer, and not boil. Put them
into glasses.
CREAMS AND JAMS, 389
Strawberry Jam.
BRUISE very fine some scarlet strawberries gathered when
Very ripe, and put to them a little juice of strawberries ;
beat and sift their weight in sugar, strew it among them, and
put them into* the preserving pan : set them over a clear slow
fire, skim and boil them twenty minutes, and then put them
into glasses.
While Raspberry Jam.
.GATHER the raspberries on a fine day, and when full ripe ;
immediately crush them fine, and strew in their own weight
of loaf sugar, and half their weight of the juice of white cur-
rants : boil them half an hour over a clear slow fire, skim
them well, and put them into pots or glasses. Tie them down
with brandy-papers, and keep them dry.
Red Raspberry Jam.
OBSERVE the same precautions in gathering these as above
recommended. Pick them very carefully from the stalks,
crush them in a bowl with a silver or wooden spoon, then strew
in their own weight of loaf sugar, and half their weight of
red currant juice baked and strained as for jelly: set them
over a clear slow fire, boil them half an hour, skim them well,
and stir them all the time : then put them into pots or glasses
as above directed.
Black Currant Jam.
BLACK currants must be gathered dry and full ripe, and
picked clear from the stalks; then bruise them well in a bowl,
and to every two pounds of currants put a pound and a half
of loaf sugar finely beaten ; put them into a preserving pan,
boil them half an hour, skim and stir them all the time, and
then put them into pots.
290 JELLIES AND SYLLABUBS.
CHAPTER VI.
JELLIES AND SYLLABUBS.
Blanc Mange.
1 His jelly is made three different ways, the first of which
is called green, and is thus prepared from isinglass : having
dissolved the isinglass, put to it two ounces of sweet and the
same quantity of bitter almonds, with a sufficient quantity of
the juice of spinach to make it green, and a spoonful of French
brandy : put it over a stove fire till almost ready to boil,
then strain it through a gauze sieve, and when it grows
thick, put it into a melon mould, and the next day turn it out.
Or, take a quart of water, put into it an ounce of isinglass,
and let it boil till reduced to a pint ; then put in the whites of
four eggs, with two spoonsful of rice water to keep the eggs
from poaching, and sugar it to the taste. Run it through a
jelly bag, then put to it two ounces of sweet and one ounce
of bitter almonds. Give them a scald in the jelly, and put
them through a hair sieve. Then put it into a mould, and the
next day turn it out, stick it all over with almonds blanched
and cut lengthways. ^
Or, skim off the fat, and strain a quart of strong calf's feet
jelly ; then beat the whites of four eggs, and put them to the
jelly. Set it over the fire, and stir till it boils. Then pour it
into a jelly bag, and run it through several times till it is
clear. Beat an ounce of sweet and the same quantity of bit-
ter almonds to a paste, with a spoonful of rose water squeezed
through a cloth ; then mix it with a jelly, and add to it three
spoonsful of very good cream. Set it again over the fire, and
stir it till it is almost boiling. Then pour it into a bowl, stir
it very often till it is almost cold, and then fill the moulds,
having first wetted them.
Orange Jelly.
INTO two quarts of spring water put a pound of hartshorn
shavings, and let it boil till it is reduced to a quart. Then
pour it clear off, and let it stand till it is cold. Take the rind
of three oranges, pared very thin, and the juice of six, and
let them stand all night in half a pint of spring- water. Then
JELLIES AND SYLLABUBS. 2i?i
strain them through a fine hair sieve, melt the jelly, and pour
the orange liquor to it. Sweeten it to the taste with double-
refined sugar, and put to it a blade or two of mace, four or
five cloves, half a small nutmeg, and the rind of a lemon.
Beat the whites of five or six eggs to a froth, mix it well with
the jelly, and set it over a clear fire. Boil it three or four
minutes, then run it through a jelly bag several times till it is
clear ; but take great care not to shake it when pouring it into
the bag.
Fruit in Jelly.
TAKE a bason, put into it half a pint of clear stiff calf's
feet jelly, and when it be set and stiff, lay in three fine ripe
peaches, and a bunch of grapes with the stalk upwards. Put
over them a few vine leaves, and then fill up your bowl with
jelly. Let it stand till the next day, and then set your bason
to the brim in hot water. As soon as you perceive it gives
way from the bason, lay your dish over it, and turn your jelly
carefully upon it. Yoii may use flowers for your garnish.
. Calf's Feet Jelly.
TAKE two calf's feet, and boil them in a gallon of water
till it comes to a quart ; when cold, skim off all the fat, and
take the jelly up clean ; leave what settling may remain at
the bottom, and put the jelly into a saucepan, with a pint of
mountain wine, half a pound of loaf sugar, and the juice of
four lemons : beat up six or eight whites of eggs with a whisk,
then put them into the saucepan, stir all well together till it
boils, and let it boil a few minutes. Pour it into a large flannel
bag, and repeat it till it runs clear. Have ready a large china
bason, and put into it lemon peel cut as thin as possible; let
the jelly run into the buson, and the lem^n peel will give it an
amber colour and a fine flavour : then fill the glasses.
A Turkey, Fowls, or Game, in Jelly.
BOIL a fine turkey, and let it stand till cold ; have ready a
jelly made thus : Skin a fowl, and take off all the fut ; but -do
not cut it in pieces, nor break all the bones ; take four pounds
of a leg of veal without either fat or skin, and put it into a
well-tinned saucepan. Put to it full three quarts of water,
and set it on a very clear fire till it begins to simmer ; but be
sure to' skim it well, and take great care that it does not boil.
Put to it two large blades of mace, half a nutmeg, and twenty
corns of white pepper, with a little bit of lemon peel. Let it
simmer six or seven hours, and when the jellv is stiff enough,
u 2
JELLIES AND SYLLABUBS.
which may be known by taking a little out to cool, be sure t<7
skim off all the fat, if any, but do not stir the meat in the
saucepan. A quarter of an. hour before it is done, throw in a
large tea spoonful of salt, and squeeze in the juice of half a
fine Seville orange, or lemon. When enough, strain it off
through a clean sieve ; but do not pour it off clean from the
bottom, for fear of settlings ; lay the turkey in the dish, and
then pour the jelly over it. Let it stand till quite cold, and
then send it to table. All sorts of birds and fowls may be
done in this manner, and are very pretty dishes for a supper
or cold collation.
Gilded Fish in Jelly.
FILL two large fish moulds with clear blanc mange, made
as before directed ; when cold, turn them out, and gild them,
with leaf gold, or strew them over with gold and silver bran
mixed. Then lay them on a soup dish, and fill it with thin
clear calf's feet jelly, which must be so thin as to admit the
fish to swim in it. Lisbon, ot any kind of pale made wine,
will answer the purpose.
Black Currant Jelly.
GATHER the currants on a dry day, when they are ripe,
strip them off the stalks, and put them into a large stewpot.
Put a quart of water to every ten quarts of currants, tie a
paper over them, and set them in a cool oven for two hours.
Then squeeze them through a very fine cloth, and to every
quart of juice add a pound and a half of loaf sugar broken into
small pieces. Stir it gently till the sugar is melted, and when
it boils, skim it well. Let it boil pretty quick for half an
hour over a clear fire, then pour it into pots, and put brandy-
papers over them.
Red Currant Jelly.
GATHER the currants, and strip them off the stalks, as be-
tore directed. Put them into a large stewpot, tie paper over
them, and let them stand an hour in a cool oven. Then
strain them through a cloth, and to every quart of juice add
a pound and a half of loaf sugar, broken into small lumps.
Stir it gently over a clear fire till the sugar is melted, skim
it well, and let it boil pretty quick for twenty minutes. Then
pour it hot into pots ; for if suffered to cool, it will break the
jelly, and will not set so well as when it is hot. Put brandy-
papers over them, and keep them in a dry place. In the same
manner, a pretty jelly may be made of half white and half
red currants.
JELLIES AND SYLLABUBS. 293
Ribband Jelly.
TAKE four calf's feet, take out the great bones, and put
the feet into a pot with ten quarts of water, three ounces of
hartshorn shavings, the same quantity of isinglass, a nutmeg-
quartered, and four blades of mace : boil it till it comes to two
quarts, then strain it through a flannel bag, and let it stand
twenty-four *iours. Scrape off all the fat from the top very
clean, slice the jelly, and put to it the whites of six eggs
beaten to a froth. Boil it a little, and strain it through a
flannel bag. Then run the jelly into little high glasses, and
run every colour as thick as the finger; but observe, that one
colour must be thoroughly cold before another is put on ; and
that which is put on must be but blood -warm, otherwise they
will mix together. Colour red with cochineal, green with
spinach, yellow with saffron, blue with syrup of violets, white
with thick cream, and sometimes the jelly by itself.
Hen and Chickens in Jelly.
HAVING made some flummery with plenty of sweet almonds
in it, colour part of it brown with chocolate, and put it into a
mould of the shape of a hen. Then colour some more flum-
mery with t'-'e yo.k of a hard egg beat as fine as possible,
and leave some of the flummery white. Then fill the moulds
of seven chickens, three with white flummery, three with
yellow, and one of tiie colour of the hen. When cold, turn
them into a deep dish, and put round them lemon peel
boiled tender, and cut like straw. Then put a little clear calf's
feet jelly under them, to keep them to their places. Let it
stand till it is stiff, and then fill up the dish with more jelly.
Hartshorn Jelly.
TAKE half a pound of hartshorn shavings, and boil in three
quarts of water over a gentle fire till it becomes a jelly : if
a little is taken out to cool, and it hangs on the spoon, it is
enough. Strain it while hot, and put it in a well-tinned sauce-
pan : put to it a pint of Rhenish wine, and a quarter of a
pound of loaf sugar; beat the whites of four eggs or more to
a froth, stir it all together, that the whites may mix well with
the jelly, and pour it in as if for cooling it. Let it boil two or
three minutes, then put in the juice of three or four lemons,
and let it boil a minute or two longer. When finely curdled,
and of a pure white colour, pour the jelly into a swan-skin
jelly-bag over a bowl or a bason. Strain it in this mannejr
594- JELLIES AND SYLLABUBS.
several times till it is as clear as rock water, and then fill the
glasses with a spoon. Have ready the thin ,rind of some
lemons, and having half filled the glasses, throw the peel
into the bason. When the jelly is all run out of the bag into
the bason, fill the rest of the glasses with a clean spoon, and
the lemon peel will give the jelly a fine amber colour. No
rule is to be given for putting in the ingredients, as taste and
fancy only can determine it ; but most people like to have
them sweet, and indeed they are insipid if they are not so.
Flummery.
TAKE an ounce of bitter, and the same quantity of sweet
almonds, put them into a bason, and pour over them some
boiling water to make the skins come off; strip off the skins,
and throw the kernels into cold water; take them out, and
beat them in a marble mortar, with a little rose water to keep
them from oiling, and when beaten, put them into a pint of
calf 's feet stock. Set it over the fire, and sweeten it to the
taste with loaf sugar. As soon as it boils, strain it through a
piece of muslin or gauze, and when it is a little cold, put it
into a pint of thick cream, and keep stirring it often till it
grows thick and cold. Wet the moulds in cold water, and
pour in the flummery. Let them stand about six hours be-
fore turning them out ; and if the flummery is stiff, wet^the
moulds, and it will turn out without putting them into warm
water, which will be a great advantage to the look of the
figures, as warm water gives a dulness to the flummery.
French Flummery.
BEAT half an ounce of isinglass fine, put to it a quart of
cream, and mix them well together; let it boil softly over a
slow fire for a quarter of an hour, and stir it all the time : take
it off, sweeten it to the taste, and put in a spoonful of rose
water, and another of orange-flower water. Strain it, and
pour it into a glass or bason, and when cold, turn it out.
Green Melon in Flummery.
PUT plenty of bitter almonds into a little stiff flummery,
and add to it as much juice of spinach as will make it of a
fine pale green. When it becomes as thick as good cream,
wet the melon mould, and put it in. " Then put a pint of clear
calf's feet jelly into a large bason, and let them stand till the
next day. Then turn out the melon, and lay it down in the
middle of the bason of jelly. Then fill up the bason with
jelly that is beginning to set, and let it stand all night. The
next day, turn it out the same way as fruit in jelly.
JELLIES AND SYLLABUBS. 295
Solomon's Temple in Flummery.
DIVIDE a quart of stiff-flummery into three parts, and make
part a pretty pink colour with a little cochineal bruised
fine, and steep it in French brandy. Scrape an ounce of
chocolate very fine, dissolve it in a little strong coffee, and
mix it with another part of the flummery, to make it a light
stone colour. The last part must be white. Then wet the
temple mould, and fit it in a pot to stand even. Fill the top
of the temple with red flummery for the steps', and the four
points with white. Then fill it up with chocolate flummery,
and let it stand till the next day. Then loosen it round with
a pin, and shake it loose very gently ; but do not dip the
mould in warm water, as that will take off the gloss, and
spoil the colour. When it is turned out stick a small sprig
of flowers, down from the top of every point, which will not
only strengthen it, but also give it a pretty appearance. Lay
round it rock candy sweetmeats.
Eggs and Bacon in Flummery.
MAKE part of a pint of stiff flummery of a pretty pink
colour with cochineal. Then dip a potting pan in cold water,
and pour in red flummery to the thickness of a crown-piece,
then the same of white flummery, and another of red, and
twice the thickness of white flummery at the top. Remember
that one layer must be stiff and cold before another is added.
Then take five tea-cups, and put a large spoonful of white
flummery into each of them, and let them stand all night.
Then turn the flummery out of the potting pots, on the back
of a plate, with cold water. Cut the flummery into thin slices,
and Jay it on a china dish. Then turn the flummery out of
the cups on the dish, and take a bit out of the top of every
one, and lay in half a preserved apricot, which will confine
the syrup from discolouring the flummery, and make it look
like the yolk of a poached egg.
A Hedge-Hog.
BEAT well in a mortar two pounds of blanched almonds,
with a little canary and orange-flower water to keep them
from oiling ; having made them into a stiff paste, beat in
the yolks of twelve eggs and seven whites. Put to it a pint
of cream, sweeten it with sugar, and set it on a slow fire.
Keep it constantly stirring till it is thick enough to make it
into the form of a hedge-Yiog. Then stick it full of blanched
almonds, slit and stuck up like the bristles of a hedge-hog, and
296 JELLIES AND SYLLABUBS.
then put it into a dish. Take a pint of cream, and the yolks
of four eggs beat up, and sweeten them with sugar to the
palate. Stir them together over a slow fire till it is quite hot,
and then pour it into the dish round the hedge-hog, and let it
stand till it is cold.
Savoury Jelly.
PUT into a stewpan some slices of lean veal and ham, with
a carrot and turnip, or two or three onions. Cover it, and let
it sweat on a slow fire, till it is of a deep brown: put to it a
quart of very clear broth, some whole pepper, mace, a very
little isinglass, and salt to the palate. Let it boil ten minutes,
then strain it through a tamis, skim off all the fat, and put to it
the whites of three eggs. Then run it several times through a
jelly-bag till it is perfectly clear.
Solid Syllabubs.
PUT in a pint of white wine to a quart of rich cream, the
juice of four lemons, and sugar it to the taste. Whip it
up well, take off the froth as it rises, and put it upon a hair
sieve. Let it stand till the next day in a cool place, then fill
glasses better than half full with the thin, put on the froth, and
heap it as high as possible. It will keep for several days, and
the bottom look clear.
Syllabub under the Cow.
PUT into a punch bowl a pint of cider, and a bottle of
strong beer. Grate in a small nutmeg, and sweeten it to the
taste. Then milk from the cow as much milk as will make a
strong froth. Then let it stand an hour, sirew over it a few
currants well washed, picked, and plumped before the fire,
and it will be fit for service.
Whipt Syllabubs.
RUB a lump of loaf sugar on the outside of a lemon, put it
into a pint of thin cream, and sweeten it to the taste. Then
put in the juice of a lemon, and a glass of Madeira wine or
French brandy. Mill it to a froth with a chocolate mill, and
take it off as it rises, and lay it into a hair sieve. Then fill one
half of the glasses a little more than half full with white wine,
and the other half of the glasses a little more than half full
with red wine: lay on the froth as high as possible ; but take
care that it is well drained on a sieve, otherwise it will mix
with the wine, and the syllabub will be thereby spoiled.
JELLIES AND SYLLABUBS. 297
Lemon Syllabubs.
RUB a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar upon the out-rind
of two lemons, to get all the essence out of them, and then
put the sugar into a pint of cream, and the same quantity of
white wine; squeeze in the juice of both lemons, and let it
stand for two hours : then mill it with a chocolate mill to raise
the froth, and take it off -with a spoon as it rises, or it will make
it heavy. Lay it upon a hair sieve to drain, then fill the
glasses with the remainder, and lay on the froth as high as
possible. Let them stand all night, and they will be clear at
the bottom.
Everlasting Syllabubs.
TAKE half a pint of Rhenish wine, half a pint of sack, with
the juice of two large Seville oranges, and put them into two
pints and a half of thick cream. Grate in just the yellow
rind of three lemons, and put in a pound of double-refined
sugar well beaten and sifted ; mix all together, with a spoon-
ful of orange-flower water, and with a whisk beat it well to-
gether for half an hour. With a spoon take off the froth,
and lay it on a sieve to drain, and then fill the glasses. These
will keep better than a week, and should always be made the
day before they are wanted. The best way to whip a sylla-
bub, is, have a fine large chocolate mill, which must be kept
on purpose, and a large deep bowl to mill them in, as this way
they will be done the quicker, and the froth be the stronger.
For the thin that is left at the bottom, have ready some calf's
feet jelly boiled, and clarified, in which must be nothing but
the calf's feet boiled to a hard jelly. When it is cold, take
off the fat, clear it with the whites of eggs, run it through a
flannel bag, and mix -it with the clear that was left of the
syllabub. Sweeten it to the palate, and give it a boil ; then
pour it into basons, or glasses. When cold, turn it out, and
it will be a fine flummery.
298 PRESERVING.
CHAPTER VII.
PRESERVING.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
IN making syrfcps for preserves, take care to pound your
sugar, and let it dissolve in the syrup before you set it on the
fire, as it will make the scum rise well, and your syrup will
be of a better colour. It is a great fault to boil any kind of
syrups or jellies too high, as it makes them dark and cloudy.
Never keep green sweetmeats longer in, the first, syrup than
directed, as it will spoil their colour ; |md the same precaution
will be necessary in the preserving oranges and lemons. When
you preserve cherries, damsons, of any other sort of stoije-
fruits, put over them mutton suet rendered, to keep oat the
air ; for if any air gets to them, it will give them a sour taste,
and spoil the whole. Wet sweetmeats must be kept in a dry
and cool place ; for a damp place will mould them, and a hot
place will deprive them of their virtue. It is a good method
to dip writing-paper into brandy, and lay it close to the
sweetmeats. They should be tied well down with white
paper, and two folds of cap-paper, to keep out the air, as
nothing can be a greater fault than leaving the pots open, or
tying them down carelessly.
Gooseberries preserved whole.
TAKE the largest gooseberries, and .pick off" the black eye,
but not the stalk ; set them over the fire in a pot of water to
scald, but take care they do not boil, for that will break and
spoil them: when tender, take them up and put them into
cold water. Then rake a pound and a half of double-refined
sugar to a pound qf gooseberries, and clarify the sugar with
water, a pint to a pound. of sugar. When the syrup is cold,
put the gooseberries singly into the preserving pan, put the
syrup to them, and set them on a gentle Ji re. Let them boil,
but not so fast as to break them ; and when they have boiled,
and the sugar has entered them, take them off, cover them with
white paper, and set them by till the next day. Then take
them out of the syrup, and boil the syrup till it begins to be
ropy. Skim it, and put it to them again. Then set them on a
gentle fire, and let them simmer gently till the syrup will
PRESERVING. 299
rope. Then take them off", set them by till they are cold, and
cover them with brandy-paper, Then boil some gooseberries
in water, and when the liquor is strong enough, strain it out.
Let it stand to settle, and to every pint take a pound of double-
refined sugar, and make a jelly of it. When the gooseberries
ar cold, put them in glasses, cover them with the jelly, and
close them down properly.
Green Gooseberries, in Imitation of Hops.
TAKE the largest green walnut gooseberries, and cut them
at the stalk-end in four quarters. Leave them whole at the
blossom, end, take out all the seeds and put five or six one in
another. Take a needleful of strong thread, with a large
knot at the end ; run the needle through the bunch of goose-
berries, tie a knot to fasten them together, and they will
resemble hops. Put cold spring-water into the pan, with a
large handful of vine-leaves at the bottom j then three or
four layers of gooseberries, with plenty of vine-leaves be-
tween every layer, and ov*er the top of the pan. Cover it
so that no steam can get out, and set them on a slow fire.
Then take them off as soon as they are scalding hot, and let
them stand till cold. Then set them on again till they are of
a good green; take them off, and let them stand till quite cold.
Put them into a sieve to drain, and make a thin syrup thus :
To every pint of water put in a pound of common loaf
sugar ; boil, and skim it well. When about half cold, put in
the gooseberries, and let them stand till the next day. Then
give them one boil a day for three days* Then make a syrup
thus : To every pint of water put in a pound of fine sugar, a
slice of ginger, and a lemon peel cut lengthways exceedingly
fine. Boil rfhd skim it well, give the gooseberries a boil in it,
and when cold, put them into glasses or pots, lay brandy-
paper over them, and tie them up close.
Red Gooseberries.
TAKE a pound of loaf sugar, put it into a preserving pan,
with as much water as will dissolve it, and boil and skim it
well ; then put in a quart of rough red gooseberries, and let
them boil a little. Set them by till the next day, then boil
them till they Jook;clear, arid the syrup thick. Then put them
into pots or glasses, and cover^hem with brandy-paper.
Red Raspberries. .
GATHER them on a dry day when just turning red, with
the stalks on, about an inch long. Lay them singly on a disb,
300 PRESERVING,
beat and sift their weight of double-refined sugar, and strew
it over them. To every quart of raspberries take a quart of
red currant jelly-juice, and put to it its weight of double-
refined sugar. Boil and skim it well, then put in the rasp,
berries, and give them a scald. Take them off, and let them
stand for two hours. Set them on again, and make them a
little hotter ; proceed in this manner two or three times till
they look clear ; but do not let them boil, as that will make
the stalks come off. When tolerably cool, put them into jelly
glasses, with the stalks downwards.
White Raspberries
MAY be preserved in the same manner, only using white
currant juice instead of red.
Red Currants.
STONE them, and tie six or seven bunches together with a
thread to a piece of split deal, .about four inches long.
\\cigh the currants, and put the weight of double-refined
sugar into the preserving pan, with a little water. Boil it till
the sugar flies; then put the currants in, just give them a boil
up, and cover them till the next day. Then take them out,
and either dry them or put them into glasses, with the syrup
boiled up with a little of the juice of red currants. Put
brandy-paper over them, then other paper over that, and tie
them down close.
White Currants preserved in Bunches.
STONE and tie them in bunches, as above directed, put
them into the preserving pan, with their v. eight of double-
rehned sugar beaten and finel> sifted, Let them stand all
night. 1 hen take some pippins, pare, core, and boil them,
and press them down with the back of a spoon, but do not
stir them. When the water is strong of the apple, add to it
the juice of a lemon, and strain it through a jelly-bag till it
runs quite clear. To every pint of liquor put a pound of
double-refined sugar, and boil it up to a strong jelly. Then
put it t,o the currants, and boil them till they look clear.
Cover them in the preserving-pan with paper till they are
almost cold, and then put a bunch of currants into glasses,
and fill them up with jelly. When cold, wet paper in brandy,
and lay over them; then put over them another paper, and tie
them' up close.
PRESERVING. 30 1
Currants preserved for Tarts.
To every pound and a quarter of picked currants take a
pound of sugar. Put the sugar into a preserving-pan, with
as much juice of currants as will dissolve it. As soon as it
boils, skim it, and put in the currants, and boil them till they
are clear. Put them into a jar, lay brandy-paper over them,
and tie them down close.
Green Codlins.
GREEN codlins will keep all the year, if preserved in this
manner : gather them when about the size of a walnut, with
the stalks and a leaf or two on them. Put a handful of vine-
leaves into a pan of spring water ; then put a layer of cod-
lins, then of vine-leaves, #nd so on till the pan is full. Cover
it close that no steam can get out, and set it on a slow fire.
As soon as they are soft, take off the skins with a penknife,
and then put them in the same water with the vine-leaves,
which must be quite cold, or it will be apt to crack them.
Put in a little alum, and set them over a very slow fire till
they are green, which will be in three or four hours. Then
take them out, and lay them on a sieve to drain. Make a
good syrup, and give them a gentle boil once a day for three
days. Then put them into small jars, with brandy-paper over
them, and tie them up tight.
Golden Pippins.
HAVING boiled the rind of an orange very tender, let it lie
in water two or three days. Take a quart of golden pippins,
pare, core, quarter, and boil them to a strong jelly, and run
it through a jelly-bag. Then take twelve pippins, pare them,
and scrape out the cores. Put two pounds of loaf sugar into
a stewpan with near a pint of water. When it boils, skim it,
and put in the pippins, with the orange rind in thin slices.
Let them boil fast till the sugar is very thick and will almost
candy. Then put in a pint of the pippin jelly, and boil them
fast till the jelly is clear. Then squeeze in the juice of a le-
mon, give it a boil, and put them into pots or glasses with the
orange peel.
Grapes.
PUT into ajar some close bunches of grapes, but they must
not be too ripe ; it matters not whether they are black or
white grapes. Put to them a quarter of a pound of sugar-
302 PRESERVING.
candy, and fill the jar with common brandy. Tie them up
close with a bladder, and set them in a dry place. Morello
cherries may be preserved in the same manner.
Walnuts (white).
PARE them till the white appear, and nothing else ; as fast
as they are clone, throw them into salt and water, and let them
lie there till the sugar is ready. Take three pounds of good
loaf sugar, put it into the preserving-pan, set it over a charcoal
fire, and put as much water as will just wet the sugar : let it
boil, then have ready ten or a dozen whites of eggs strained
and beat up to a froth. Cover the sugar with the froth as it
boils, and skim it; then boil it, and skim it till it is quite clear,
and throw in the walnuts. Just give them a boil till they are
tender, then take them out, and lay them in a dish to cool.
When cold, put them into the preserving-pot, and when the
sugar is as warm as milk pour it over them ; and when they are
quite cold, tie them up.
Walnuts (black ).
TAKE those of the smaller kind ; put them in salt and
water, and change the water every day for nine days; thei>
put them on a sieve, and let them stand in the air till they
begin to turn black. Put them into a jug, pour boiling water
over them, and let them stand till the next day. Then put
them into a sieve to drain, stick a clove in each end of the
walnut, put them into a pan of boiling water, and let them
boil five minutes. Take them up, make a thin syrup, and
scald them in it three or four times a day, till the walnuts are
black and bright. Then make a thick syrup with a few cloves
and a little ginger cut in slices ; skim it well, put in the wat-
nuts, boil them five or six minutes, and then put them inco
jars. Lay brandy-paper over them, and tie them down close
with a bladder. They will eat better the second year of their
keeping than in the first, as the bitterness goes off with time.
Walnuts (green).
WIPE them very dry, and lay them in salt and water twenty-
four hours ; take them out, and wipe them very clean ; have
ready a skillet of boiling water, throw them in, let them boil a
minute, and then take them out. Lay them on a coarse cloth,
and boil the sugar as directed for the white walnuts; then
just give the walnuts a scald in the sugar, take them up, and'
lay them to cool. Put them into the preserving-pot, and pro-
ceed as directed for white walnuts.
PRESERVING. 303
Cucumbers*
TAKE the greenest cucumbers, and the most free from
seeds ; some small to preserve whole, anil other large to cut
into pieces. Put them into strong salt and water in a strait-
mouthed jar with a cabbage-leaf to keep them down. Set
them in a warm place till they are yellow, then wash them
out, and set them over the fire in fresh water, with a little
salt, and a fresh cabbage-leaf over them : cover the pan very
close, but take care they do not boil. If they are not of a
fine green, change the water, as that will help them. Then
cover them as before, and make them hot ; when they be-
come of a good green, take them off the fire, and let them
stand till cold. Then cut the large ones in quarters, take out
the seeds and soft part, put them into cold water, and let them
stand two days ; but change the water twice every day to take
out the salt. Take a pound of single-refined sugar, and half
a pint of water, set it over the fire, and when it is skimmed
clean, put in the rind of a lemon, and an ounce of ginger,
with the outside scraped off. When the syrup is pretty thick,
take it off j and when cold, wipe the cucumbers dry, and
put them in. Boil the syrup once in two or three days for
three weeks, and strengthen the syrup, if required ; for the
greatest danger of spoiling them is at first. When the syrup
is put to the cucumbers, be sure that it is quite cold.
Green Gage Plums.
PUT into a pan the finest plums just before they are ripe :
put vine-leaves at the bottom of the pan, then a layer of plums,
and thus plums and vine-leaves alternately till the pan is al-
most full: then fill it with water, set them over a slow fire,
and when hot, and their skins begin to break, take them off,
and take the skins off carefully. Put them on a sieve as they
are done, then lay them in the same water, with a layer of
leaves between, and cover them very close, so that no steam
can get out. Hang them at a great distance from the fire till
they are green, which will be five or six hours at least. Then
take them carefully up, lay them on a hair sieve to drain,
make a good syrup, and give them a gentle boil in it twice
a day for two days. Take them out, and put them into a fine
clear syrup ; put brandy-paper over them, and tie them down
close.
Damsons.
CUT the damsons into pieces, and put them in a skillet over
the fire, with as much water as will cover then. When they
304 PRESERVING.
are boiled, and the liquor pretty strong, strain it out, and add
to every pound of the damsons, wiped clean, a pound of single-
refined sugar. Put one third of the sugar in the liquor, set
it over the fire, and when it simmers, put in the damsons. Let
them have one good boil, and take them off for half an hour
covered up close. Then set them on again, and let them sim-
mer over the fire after turning them. Then take them out,
put them in a bason, strew all the sugar that was left on them,
and pour the hot liquor over them. Cover them up, let them
stand till the next day, and then boil, them up again till they
are enough. Then take them up, and put them in pots ;
boil the liquor till it jellies, and pour it on them when almost
cold. Put paper over them, and tie them up close.
Mordlo Cherries.
HAVING gathered cherries when they are full ripe, take off
the stalks, and prick them with ^a pin. To everv pound of
cherries put a pound and a half of loaf sugar.' Beat part of
the sugar, strew it over them, and let them stand all night.
Dissolve the rest of the sugar in. half a pint of the iuice of
currants, set it over a slow fire, and put in the cherries with
the sugar, and give them a gentle scald. Then take them
carefully out, boil the syrup till it is thick, and pour it upon
the cherries.
Lemons.
FIRST pare the lemons very thin, then make a round hole
on the top of the size of a shilling, and take out all the pulps
and skins; rub them with salt, and put them into spring
water, which will prevent them from turning black : let them
lie in it five or six days, and then boil them in fresh salt and
water fifteen minutes. Have ready made a thin syrup of a
quart of water, and a pound of loaf sugar. Boil them in it for
' five minutes once a day, for four or five days, and then put
them in a large jar. Let them stand for six or eight weeks,
and it will make them look clear and plump. Then take them
out of that syrup, or they will mould ; make a syrup of fine
sugar, put as much water to it as will dissolve it, boil and skim
it, then put in the lemons, and boil them gently till they are
clear. Put them into a jar with brandy-paper over them, and
. and tie them down close.
Oranges.
CUT a hole out of a Seville orange at the stalk-end as large
as a sixpence, and scoop out the pulp quite clean ; tie them
PRESERVING. 305
separately in muslin, and lay them two days in spring water.
Change the water twice every day, and then boil them in the
muslin on a slow fire till quite tender. As the water wastes,
put more hot water into the pan, and keep them covered.
Weigh the oranges before they are scooped, and to every
pound put two pounds of double-refined sugar, and a pint of
water : boil the sugar and water, with the juice of the oranges,
to a syrup; skim it well, let it stand till cold, then put in the
oranges, and let them boil half an hour. If not quite clear,
boil them once a day for two or.three days. Then pare and
core some green pippins, and boil them till the water is
strong of the apple ; but do not stir them, and only put them
down with the back of a spoon. Strain the water through a
jelly-bag till it is quite clear, and then, to every pint of water,
put a pound of double-refined sugar, and the juice of a lemon
strained fine. Boil it up to a strong jelly, drain the oranges
out of the syrup, and put them into glass jars, or pots of the
size of an orange, with the, -holes upwards. ^Po'ur the jelly
over them, cover them with paper dipped in brandy, and t;e
them close down with a bladder. Lemons may be done in
this manner, if preferred to the method before directed.
Strawberries.
ON a dry day, gather the finest scarlet strawberries, with
their stalks on, before they are too ripe ; lay them separately
on a china dish, beat and sift twice their weight of double-
refined sugar, and strew it over them. Then take a few ripe
scarlet strawberries, crush them, and put them into a jar, with
their weight of double-refined sugar beat small. Cover them
close, and let them stand in a kettle of boiling water till they
are soft, and the syrup come out of them. Then strain them
through a muslin rag into a tossing-pan, boil and skim it well,
and when cold, put in the whole strawberries, and set them
over the fire till they are milk warm. Then take them off,
and let them stand till quite cold. Then set them on again,
and make them a little hotter, and do so several times till
they look clear ; but do not let them boil, as that will bring
off their stalks. When the strawberries are cold, put them
into jelly -glasses, with the stalks downwards, and fill up the'
glasses with the syrup. Put over them paper dipped in bran-
dy, and tie them down close.
Pine-apples.
TAKE pine-apples before they are ripe, and lay them five
days in strong salt and water. . Then put into the bottom oi'u
large saucepan a handful of vine-leaves, and put in the pine-
x
PRESERVING.
apples. Fill the pan with vine-leaves, and then pour on the
salt and water they were laid in. Cover it up very close, and
set them over a slow fire. Let them stand till of a fine light
green. Have ready a thin syrup, made of a quart of water
and a pound of double-refined sugar. When it is almost cold,
put it into a deep jar, and put in the pine-apples with their
tops on. Let them stand a week, and take care that they are
well covered with the syrup. It is a great fault to put any kind
of fruit that is to be preserved whole into thick syrup at first,
as that makes it shrink, draws out the juice, and spoils it.
When they have stood a week, boil the syrup again, and pour
it carefully into the jar, for fear of breaking the tops of the
pine-apples. Let it stand eight or ten weeks, and during that
time give the syrup two or three boilings to keep it from
moulding. Let the syrup stand till it is near cold before it is
put on ; and when the pine-apples look quite full and green,
take them out of the syrup, and make a thick syrup of three
pounds of double-refined sugar, with as much water as will
dissolve it : boil and skim it well, put a few slices of white
ginger into it, and when it is nearly cold, pour it upon the
pine-apples. Tie them down close with a bladder, and they
will keep many years without shrinking.
Barberries for Tarts.
HAVING picked the female branches clean from the stalks,
take their weight in loaf sugar, and put them in a jar. Set
them in a kettle of boiling water till the sugar is melted and
the barberries quite soft. Then next dayput them into a pre-
serving-pan, and boil them fifteen minutes. Then put them
into jars, and tie them up close.
Barberries preserved in Bunches.
HAVING procured the finest female barberries, pick out all
the largest bunches, and then pick the rest from the stalks ;
put them in as much water as will make a syrup for the
bunches; boil them till they are soft, then strain them through a
sieve, and to every pint of the juice put a pound and a half
of loaf sugar. Boil and skim it well, and to every pint of
syrup put half a pound of barberries in bunches. Boil them
till they look very fine and clear, then put them carefully
into pots or glasses, and tie them down close with brandy-
paper.
Quinces.
QUINCES may be preserved either whole, or in quarters, in
this manner : Having pared them very thin and round (or cut
DRYJNG AND CANDYING. 307
U|
into quarters), put them into a saucepan, fill it with hard
water, and lay the parings over the quinces to keep them
down. Cover the saucepan close, that no steam may get* out,
and set them over a slow fire till they are soft, and of a fine
pink colour. Then let them stand till they are cold. Make
a good syrup of double-refined sugar, and boil and skim it
well. Then put in the quinces, let them" boil ten minutes, take
them off, and let them stand two or three hours. Boil them
till the syrup looks thick, and the quinces clear. Put them
into deep jars, and with brandy-paper and leather over them,
tie them up close.
Peaches.
LET the peaches be the largest, but not too ripe : rub off
the lint with a cloth, and then run them down the seam with
a pin, skin deep, and cover them with French brandy : tie a
bladder over them, and let them stand a week. Take them
out, and make a strong syrup for them. Boil and skiui it
well, then put in the peaches, and boil them till they look
clear: take them out, and put them into pots or glasses ; mix
the syrup with the brandy, and when it is cold, pour it on the
peaches. Tie them close down with a bladder, as they will
turn black should the air get to them.
Apricots.
HAVING pared the apricots, thrust out the stones with a
skewer, and to every pound of apricots put a pound- of loaf
sugar; strew part of it over them, and let it stand till the next
day ; then give them a gentle boil three or four different
times, and let them cool between each time : take them out
of the syrup one by one, the last time they are boiled. Skim
the syrup well, then pour it over the apricots, and tie them
down close with brandy-paper and a bladder.
CHAPTER VIII.
DRYING AND CANDYING.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
iivERY kind of fruit, before you attempt to candy it, musfc
be first preserved, and dried in a stqve or before the fire, that
none of the syrup may remain in it. Then, having boiled
x y
308 DRYING AND CANDYING.
your sugar to the candy height, dip in your fruit, and lay
them in dishes in your stove to dry. Then put them in boxes
for use, and take care to keep them in places neither damp
nor hot.
Candied Cassia.
TAKE as much of the powder of brown cassia as will lie
upon two shillings, with as much musk and ambergris as is
thought proper: the cassia and perfume must be powdered
together. Then take a quarter of a pound of sugar, and boil
it to a candy height, put in the powder and mix it well toge-
ther. Pour it into saucers, which must be buttered very thin,
and when it is cold it will slip out.
Orange Marmalade.
CUT in twothe clearest Seville oranges; take out all the pulp
and juice into a bason, and pick all the skins and seeds out
of it ; boil the rinds in hard water till they are tender, and
change the water two or three times while they are boiling.
Then pound them in a marble mortar, and add to them the juice
and pulp; put them into the preserving-pan with double their
weight of loaf sugar, and set them over a slow fire. Boil it
rather more than half an hour, put into pots, cover with
brandy-paper, and tie close down.
Apricot Marmalade.
ALL those apricots that are not good enough for preserves,
or are too ripe for keeping, will answer this purpose ; boil
them in syrup till they will mash, and then beat them in a
marble mortar to a paste : take half their weight of loaf
sugar, and put just water enough to it to dissolve it ; boil and
skim it till it looks clear, and the syrup thick like a fine jelly.
Then put it into sweetmeat glasses, and tie it up close.
Transparent Marmalade.
CUT very pale Seville oranges into quarters, take out the
pulp, put it into a bason, and pick out the skins and seeds.
Put the peels into a little salt and water, and let them stand
all night. Then boil them in a good quantity of spring water
till they are tender, cut them in very thin slices, and put them
to the pulp. To every pound of marmalade put a pound and
a half of double-refined sugar finely beaten, and boil them
together gently for twenty minutes ; but if it is not clear and
transparent in that time, boil it five or six minutes longer,
keep fctirringik gently all the time, and take care not to break
DRYING AND CANDYING. 309
the slices. When cold, put it into jelly or sweetmeat glasses,
and tie them down tight with brandy-paper, and a bladder
over them.
Quince Marmalade.
QUINCES for this purpose must be full ripe; pare them and
cut them into quarters ; then take out the core, and put them
into a saucepan. Cover them with the parings, fill the sauce-
pan nearly full of spring water, cover it close, and let
them stew over a slow fire till they are soft, and of a pink
colour. Then pick out all the quinces from the parings, and
beat them to a pulp in a marble mortar. Take their weight
of fine loaf sugar, put as much water to it as will dissolve it,
and boil and skim it well. Then put in the quinces, and boil
them gently three quarters of an hour. Stir all the time, or
it will stick to the pan and burn. When cold, put it into fiat
pots, and tie it down close.
Damson Cheese.
HAVING picked the damsons free from stalks, put them into
ajar, tie white paper over them, and bake in an oven till
quite soft : rub through a cullender whilst hot, and to the
pulp and juice add sugar to the palate: boil over a gentle
fire till nearly quite stiff, stir all the time that it m t ^ not burn,
and turn into moulds, or cups : tie brandy-paper over them,
and keep in a dry but not hot place.
Plum Cheese,
Is made like damson cheese.
Bullace Cheese,
Is made like damson cheese.
Apple Cheese.
PARE, quarter, and core the apples ; put them into a jar,
tie them over with white paper, and bake in an oven till quite
soft : pulp them through a sieve ; put the pulp into a stewpan
with sifted lump sugar to the palate, and a little thin rind of
lemon, boil till quite stiff, and put into moulds.
Raspberry Paste.
TAKE a quart of raspberries, mash them, strain one half, and
put the juice to the other half; boil them a quarter of an
hour, put to them a pint of red currant juice^nd let them
310 DRYING AND CANDYING.
boil all together till the raspberries are enough. Then put
a pound and a half of double-refined sugar into a clean pan,
with as much water as will dissolve it, aud boil it to a sugar
again. Then put in the raspberries and juice, give them a
scald, and pour them into glasses or plates. Then put them
into a stove to dry, and turn them when necessary.
Currant Paste.
CURRANT paste may be either red or white, according to
the colour of the currants used. Strip the currants, put a
little juice to them to keep them from burning, boil them
well, and rub them through a hair sieve. Then boil it a
quarter of an hour, and to a pint of juice put a pound and a
half of double-refined sugar pounded and sifted. Shake in
the sugar, and when it is melted, pour it on plates. Dry it in
the same manner as the above paste, and turn it into any form
most approved.
Gooseberry Paste.
WHEN red gooseberries are full grown and turned, but not
ripe, cut them in halves, pick out all the seeds; then have
ready a pint of currant juice, and boil the gooseberries in it
till they are tender. Put a pound and a half of double-re-
fined suga^into the pan, with as much water as will dissolve
it, and boil it to a sugar again : then put all together, and
make it scalding hot, but do not let it boil. Pour it into
palates or glasses, and dry it as above directed.
Burnt Almonds.
PUT two pounds of almonds, the same quantity of loaf
sugar, and a pint of water, into a stewpan. Set them over a
clear coal fire, and let them boil till the almonds crack. Then
take them off, and stir them about till they are quite dry.
Put them in a wire sieve, and sift all the sugar from them.
Put all in the pan again with a little water, and give it a boil :
then put four spoonsful of scraped cochineal to the sugar to
colour it; put the almonds into the pan, and keep stirring
them over the fire till they are quite dry. Then put them
nto a glass, and they will keep a year.
Orange Chips.
PARE some of the best Seville oranges a-slant, about a
quarter of an inch broad, and if kept whole they will have a
prettier effect: put them into salt and spring water for a day
or two ; then boil them in a large quantity of spring water
DRYING AND CANDYING. 311
till they are tender, and drain them on a sieve. Have ready
a thin syrup, made of a quart of water, and a pound of fine
sugar. Boil them, a few at a time, to keep them from break-
ing, till they look clear. Then put them into a syrup made
of fine loaf sugar, with as much water as will dissolve it, and
boil them to a candy height. When taken up, lay them on at
sieve, and grate double-refined sugar over them. Then put
them in a stove, or before the fire to dry.
Green Gage Plums dried.
HAVING made a thin syrup of half a pound of single-
refined sugar, and skimmed it well, slit a pound of plums
down the seam, and put them in the syrup. Keep them scald-
ing hot till they are tender, and take care they are well
covered with syrup, or they Avill lose their colour. Let them
stand all night, and then make a rich syrup. To a pound of
double-refined sugar put two spoonsful of water, skim it well,
and boil it almost to a candy. When cold, drain the plums
out of the first syrup, and put them into the thick syrup ; but
be sure to let the syrup cover them. Set them on the fire to
scald till they look clear, and then put them in a china bowl.
When they have stood a week, take them out, and Jay them on
china dishes. Then put them in a stove, and turn them once
a day till they are dry.
Cherries dried.
STONE any quantity of morello cherries, and to every pound
of cherries put a pound and a quarter of fine sugar: beat it
and sift it over the cherries, and let them stand all night :
take them out of the sugar, and to every pound of sugar put
two spoonsful of water ; boil and skim it well, and then put in
the cherries. Let the sugar boil over them, the next morning
strain them, and to every pound of the syrup put half a pound
more sugar. Let it Doil a little thicker, then put in the
cherries, and let them boil gently. The next day strain them,
put them into a stove to dry, and mind every day to turn
them.
Damsons dried.
DAMSONS for this purpose must be gathered when they are
full ripe. Spread them on a coarse cloth, and set them in a
very cool oven. Let them stand a day or two ; and if they
are not then properly dried, put them in for a day or two
longer. Take them out, lay them in a dry place, and even in
.the winter they will eat like fresh plums.
312 DRYING AND CANDYING.
Apricots dried.
PARE and stone a pound of apricots, and put them into a
tossing-pan ; pound and sift half a pound of double-refined
sugar, strew a little amongst them, and lay the rest over them.
Let them stand twenty-four hours, turn them three or four
times in the syrup, and then boil them pretty quick till they
look clear. When cold, take them out and lay them on
glasses. Then put them into a stove, and turn them the first
day every half hour, the second day every hour, and so on till
they are dry.
Peaches dried.
GET the largest Newington peaches, and pare and stone
them : put them into a saucepan of boiling water, let them
boil till tender, and then lay them on a sieve to drain. Weigh
them, and with their weight in sugar cover them in the pan
they were boiled in. Let them lie two or three hours, then
boil them till they are clear, and the syrup pretty thick.
Cover them close, and let them stand all night ; scald them
well, and then take them off to cool. Then set them on again
till the peaches are thoroughly hot, and do this for three days.
Then lay them, on plates, and turn them every day till they
are dry.
Ginger candied.
TAKE an ounce of race ginger grated fine, a pound of loaf
sugar beat fine, and put into a tossing-pan with as much water
as will dissolve it : stir them well together over a very slow
fire till the sugar begins to boil. Then stir in another pound
of sug.ir beat fine, and keep stirring till it grows thick. Then
take it off the fire, and drop it in cakes upon earthen dishes.
Set them in a warm place to dry, and they will be hard and
brittle, and look white.
Lemon and Orange Peels candied.
TAKE either lemons or oranges, cut them long ways, take
out the pulp, and put all the rinds into a pretty strong- salt and
hard water for six days: then boil them in a large quantity of
spring water till they are tender ; take them out, and lay them
on a hair sieve to drain : then make a thin syrup of fine loaf
sugar, a pound to a quart of water ; put in the peels, and boil
them over a slow fire till the syrup and candy may be perceived
about the pan and peels. Then take them out, and grate fine
sugar all over them. Lay them on a hair sieve to drain, and.
ORNAMENTS. 313
set them in a stove, or before the fire, to dry. Remember
when either lemons or oranges are boiled, not to cover the
saucepan.
Angelica candied.
CUT the angelica in lengths when young, cover it close,
and boil it till it is tender; then peel it, put it in again, and
let it simmer, and boil it till it is green : take it up, and dry
it with a cloth, and to every pound of stalks put a pound of
sugar. Put the stalks into an earthen pan, beat the sugar,
and strew it over them, and let them stand two days. Then
boil it till it is clear and green, and put it in a cullender to
drain. Beat another pound of sugar to powder, and strew
it on the angelica. Lay it on plates to dry, and set them in
the oven after the pies are drawn.
CHAPTER IX.
ELEGANT ORNAMENTS FOR A GRAND
ENTER TAINMENT.
Floating Island.
1 AKE a soup-dish, of a size proportionate to what is intended
to be made ; but a deep glass, set on a china dish, will an-
swer the purpose better. Take a quart of the thickest cream,
and make it pretty sweet with fine sugar. Pour in a gill of
sack, grate in the yellow rind of a lemon, and mill the cream
till it is of a thick froth. Then carefully pour the thin from
the froth into a dish. Cut a French roll, or as many as are
wanted, as thin as possible, and put a layer of it as light as
possible on the cream, then a layer of currant jelly, then a
very thin layer of roll, then hartshorn jelly, then French roll,
and over that whip the froth saved of the cream, well milled
up, and lay it on the top as high as possible. The rim of the
dish may be ornamented with figures, fruit, or sweetmeats.
Chinese Temple or Obelisk.
TAKE an ounce of fine sugar, half an ounce of butter, and
four ounces of fine flour ; boil the sugar and butter in a little
water, and when cold, beat an egg, and put it to the water,
3 1 4 ORNAMENTS.
r, and butter : mix it with the flour, and make into a very
stiff paste. Then roll it as thin as possible, have a set of tins
the form of a temple, and put the paste upon them. Cut it in
the form intended upon the separate parts of the tins, keeping
them separate till baked ; but take care to have the paste
exactly the size of the tins. When all the parts are cut, bake
them in a slow oven, and Avhen cold, take them out of the
tins, and join the parts with strong isinglass and water with a
camel's hair brush. Set them one upon the other, as the
forms of the tin moulds will direct. If cut neatly, and the
paste is rolled very thin, it will be a beautiful corner for a large
table. Take care to make the pillars stronger than the top,
that they may not be crushed by their weight.
Desert Island.
FORM a lump of paste into a rock three inches broad, at
the top. Then colour it, and set it in the middle of a deep
china dish. Set a cast figure on it with a crown on its head,
and a knot of rock candy at its feet. Then make a roll of
paste an inch thick, and stick it on the inner edge of the dish,
two parts round. Cut eight pieces of eringo roots, about
three inches long, and fix them upright to the roll of paste
on the edge. Make gravel walks of shot comfits round the
dish, and set small figures in them. Roll out some paste, and
cut it open like Chitiese rails. Bake it, and fix it on either
side of the gravel walks with gum, and form an entrance where
the Chinese raHs are, with two pieces of eringo rook for
pillars.
Moonshine.
HAVE a piece of tin in the shape of a half-moon, as deep
as a half pint bason, and one in the shape of a large star, and
two or three lesser ones : boil two calf's feet in a gallon of
water till it comes to a quart, then strain it off, and when
cold, skim off the fat. Take half the jelly, and sweeten it with
sugar to the palate. Beat up the whites of four eggs, stir all
together over a slow fire till it boils, and then run it through
a flannel bag till clear. Put it in a clean saucepan, and take
an ounce or sweet almonds blanched, and beat very fine in a
marble mortar, with two spoonsful of rose-water, and two of
orange-flower water. Then strain it through a coarse cloth,
mix it with the jelly, stir in four spoonsful of thick cream, and
stir it all together till it boils. Then have ready the dish in-
tended for it, lay the tin in the shape of a half moon in the
middle, and the stars round it. Lay little weights on the tins
to keep them in their places ; then pour in the above blanc
ORNAMENTS. 3 1 5
mange into the dish : and when 'it is quite cold, take out the
tins. Fill up the vacancies with clear calf's feet jelly. Or,
colour the blanc mange with cochineal and chocolate, to make
it look like the sky, and the moon and stars will then shine the
brighter. Put round it rock-candy sweetmeats for a garnish.
A Dish of Snow.
- PUT twelve large apples into cold water, set them over a
slow fire, and when they are soft pour them upon a hair sieve,
Take off the skins, and put the pulp into a bason. Then
beat the whites of twelve eggs to a very strong froth, beat
and sift half a pound of double-refined sugar, and strew it
into the eggs. Then beat the pulp of the apples to a strong
froth, and beat them all together till they are like a stiff snow,
lay it upon a china dish, and heap it up as high as possible.
Set round it green knots of paste in imitation of Chinese rails,
and stick a sprig of myrtle in the middle of the dish.
Artificial Fruit.
AT a proper time of the year take care to save the stalks of
the fruit with the stones to them. Then get some tins neatly
made in the shape of the fruit intended to be made, leaving a
hole at the top to put in the stone and stalk. They must be
so contrived as to open in the middle, to take out the fruit,
and there must also be made a frame of wood to fix them in.
Great care must be taken to make the tins very smooth in
the inside, otherwise their roughness will mark the fruit; and
that they are made exactly the shape of the fruit they are in-
tended to represent. A defect in either of these points will
not only give deformity to the artificial fruit, but likewise rob
the artist of that honour he might otherwise acquire. Being
thus prepared with tins, take two cow-heels and a calf's foot ;
boil them in a gallon of soft water till they are all boiled to
rags, and when reduced to a full quart of jelly, strain it
through a sieve. Then put it into a saucepan, sweeten it, put
in lemon peel perfumed, and colour it like the fruit intended to
imitate. Stir all together, give it a boil, and fill the tins. Then
put in the stones and the stalks just as the fruit grows ; and
when the jelly is quite cold, open the tins, and put on the
bloom, which may be done by carefully dusting on powder-
blue. An ingenious person may make great improvement on
these artificial fruits ; but it requires great nicety and long
practice to perfect them in it.
The hedge-hog, the hen and chickens in jelly, the Solo-
mon's temple, and the eggs and bacon, &c. in flummery, al-
ready given, may, with propriety, be classed among the ele-
gant ornaments for a grand entertainment.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CARVING.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CARVING.
Meat.
1 HE cook must take care that the butcher divides the joints
of the bones of all carcase-joints of mutton, lamb, veal, and
pork, which may then be easily and handsomely separated ;
but the art of carving neatly depends less upon strength than
skill. The fleshy joints should be helped in thin slices, and
neatly and smoothly cut.
Poultry.
IN carving turkey, goose, duck, or wild fowl, there will be
more prime pieces, if slices are taken from the breast, instead
of making wings.
Fish.
IN helping fish, make use of a fish-knife, which is less liable
to break the flakes, and contributes to the* beauty of its ap-
pearance.
Beef Sirloin.
CUT ofY the out-
side slice quite
down to the bone,
in the direction-c d,
and cut slices of a
moderate thickness
smoothly, and pa-
rallel with the first
slice : or, cut thro'
the middle, quite
down to the bone,
in the direction of a b ; in either case, helping to a little fat.
By some the inside is preferred, which must be cut across the
inside of the bones.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CARVING,
317
Beef- Edgebone.
WITH a properbeef-
knife, cut off the out-
side slice beginning at
a and ending at b. The
soft fat which lies on
the back of the bone
below d, very much
resembles marrow; the
firm fat must be cut in
thin horizontal slices,
at the edge of the meat c. The upper part is most full of
gravy, enriched with fat, and most tender; but the under
side is sometimes preferred, because more lean and dry.
Beef Brisket.
THE brisket is gene-
rally cut in neat slices,
in the direction of a to
b, quite down to the
bone ; but some like it
cut in the direction of
c to d. The fat of the
upper side is most firm,
and somewhat gristly; ,
but that on the under side is softer and more delicate.
Mutton Leg.
CUT down quite
to the bone, in the
line of a b, which
goes through the
kernel called the
pope's eye; help
in deep thin slices
forward to e. The
back of the leg al-
so furnishes some
very fine slices;
and must be cut in the direction of b to g. The fat lies in
the direction of e e, and must be cut from e to f. Tro take
out the cramp bone, pass the knife from d to c.
318
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CARVING.
Mutton Sh oulder.
THE first cut is made in
the hollow part, in the direc-
tion a to b, quite down to the
bone : when the hollow part
is allhelped away, some very
delicate slices may be taken
out of each side of the blade-
bone, in the direction d to
c. The best fat lies on
the outer ridge, and is cut in thin slices in the direction g to
f. There are two
parts in the under
side very full of gra-
vy, and by many pre-
ferred to the upper
side. One is, by a
deep cut in the line
g h, accompanied
with fat ; and the other
all lean, in a line from,
/to/t.
Mutton Haun ch ,
Is carved like venison.
Venison Haunch.
CUT it across down to the
bone, in the line a, b, c; and
putting in the knife at b, cut
in the line 6, d. The fat lies
between d and a, and should
be properly proportioned.
Veal Fillet.
MANY persons are fond of
the outside slice of this joint,
which should be cut thin and
even from a to c ; at the same
time help to a little of the fat
and situfnng, which lies under
b : to i nake the fillet look hand-
some, a.11 the succeeding slices should be cut parallel with the
first.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CARVING.
319
Vtal Breast.
DIVIDE the brisket from the ribs, and help a little of the
sweetbread to either.
Calf's Head. \
CUT slices from a to
6, letting the knife go
close to the bone ; the
throat sweetbread lies
in the fleshy part, at
the neck end c, and
slices should be helped
from c to d with the
other part. As the eye
is reckoned a dainty, it should be neatly cut out with the point
of the knife, and divided in two. On taking off the jaw-
bone some fine lean will be found, and under the head is the
palate, which is also highly liked.
Pork Leg,
Is carved exactly as the leg of mutton.
Pork Sparerib.
CUT slices out of the thick part .at the bottom of the
bones, and when the fleshy parts are all done, separate and
help the bones.
Ham.
HAM may be cut three
ways : having cut off the
hock at e, take thin cir-
cular slices all round the
bone to c, and afterwards
carve it in the same man-
ner as venison : or, cut
down to the bone in the
line a, b, and take thin slices each way : or, with the point of
the knife cut a small round hole at c, and continue to cut it
in thin circular slices.
SEPARATE the shoul-
der and leg in the
line a, b, c t and di-
vide the ribs, which
are reckoned the finest
part; although many
320
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CARVING.
prefer the neck end, and even the legs : the ear and jaw are
counted delicacies, and should also be offered, with plenty of
sauce, and a spoonful of the force or stuffing.
Lamb Fore-quarter.
SEPARATE the shoulder from
the breast and ribs, in the line
a, A, c y d, without cutting too
much meat from the bones ;
, squeeze a little Seville orange
or lemon, and sprinkle a little
white pepper and salt : separate the gristly part of the ribs in
the line e, c, and help from the part chosen.
Hare, or Rabbit.
PUT the point of the
knife under the shoul-
der at a, and cut all the
way down to the rump
in the line a, b ; do the
same on the other side :
cut the back into four,
which, with the legs,
are the parts most
esteemed. Cat off the
shoulder in the line c, d, a; and cut the head in two : help to
the part approved, with a little stuffing and gravy to each.
Goose.
CUT off the apron in
the line a, b, c, pour in
the sauce (see Sauces},
and cut the breast in
long slices in the line
d, e; this will make the
wings smaller, but more prime pieces may be thus taken : di-
vide the wing b} 7 passing the knife through the joint at d, and
the leg in the same manner at e: cut off the merry-thought
at d,/, and having divided the pinions, cut off the neck bones,
and separate the breast from the back : cut off the side-bits,
or sidesmen, from the b;ck, and divide that into two parts.
It requires much practice to carve a goose neatly, Help each
person to a little of the seasoning and gravy-
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CARVING.
321
Ducks, Teal, and Wild Fowl,
ARE, in general, very nearly carved in the same manner as
goose.
Turkey.
TAKE slices from the breast in the
line from a to b, and proceed exactly
in the same manner as above directed
for goose, observing, that the parts
nearest the wings are most delicate,
and help a little of the liver, if ap-
proved of, to each person. The giz-
zard is generally devilled ; to do which,
score it all over with the point of the knife, and having
mixed up a spoonful of mustard, a little cayenne and salt,
rub the composition over the whole, and send it out to be
broiled.
Fowl
TAKE off the wing in the direction from
to b; slip the knife between the body and
leg, and turn it back with the fork: pro-
ceed afterwards as already directed for
carving goose.
Pheasant.
SLICE down the breast in the line a, b ,
take off the leg in the direction of the line
b, d, and cut oft the wing in the line c d; se-
parate the leg and wing on the other side,
and cut off the slices of the breast ; cut off
the merry-thought in the \inef, g, and
proceed as above directed for goose. The prime parts are the
breast, wings, and merry-thought, although the leg is of a
higher flavour.
Partridge
Is carved in the same manner as a fowl ;
the wings must be taken off in the lines
a, b, and the merry-thought in the line
c, b : the most esteemed parts are, the
wings, breast, and merry-thought.
322
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CARVING.
Pigeons
MAY be either cut in halves from top to
bottom, or across : the most approved way
is to cut from the neck to tf, rather than
from c to b, by a.
Cod's Head.
WITH the fish-knife or
trowel, take off a piece
quite down to the bone, in
the direction a, b; c, d;
putting in the trowel at <z,
t 1 ; and with each slice of
fish give a piece of the
sound, which lies underneath the back-bone and lines it. The
parts about the back-bone on the shoulders are the best; and
about the head are many delicate parts, and a great deal of
the jelly kind.
Salmon.
WITH the point of a
sharp carving-knife, take
slices in the direction of
the lines a, b, and c, d;
and with a fish-trowel
serve slices of each part ;
the back being more dry
and firm than the belly,
which is both fat and rich.
Turbot.
ENTER the fish-knife or trowel in the middle over the back-
bone, and take off a piece of the fish, as much as will lie on
the trowel, on one side close to the bones. The thickest part
of the fish is always the most esteemed.
Soles.
THESE may be either boiled or fried. Cut them right through
the middle, bone and all, and give a piece of the fish, in pro-
portion to the size of it, to each person.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CARVING. 323
Mackerel.
SLIT this fish all along the back with a knife, and take off
one whole side, not too near the head, because the meat about
the gills is generally black and ill-flavoured.
Eels.
CUT these into pieces quite through the bone. The thickest
part is the most esteemed.
Besides these, there are many other little articles brought
to table ; but as they are mostly simple in their nature, a little
observation and practice will make complete proficients in the
art of carving,
PART IV.
MADE WINES, CORDIAL WATERS, AND
MALT LIQUORS.
CHAPTER I.
MADE WINES.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
(TREAT care and precaution are necessary in the making
wine, as it is frequently spoiled by mismanagement. If you
let your wine stand too long before you get it cold, and do
not take great care to put your barin upon it in time, it will
make it fret in the cask, and you will find it very difficult, if
at all possible, to bring it to any degree of fineness. On the
other hand, if you let your wine work too long in the tub,
it will take off all the sweetness and flavour of the fruit or
flowers your wine is made from. Be careful to have your
vessels dry, and rinsed with brandy; and as soon as the wine is
done fermenting, to close them up properly.
Blackberry Wine.
HAVING procured berries that are full ripe, put them into a
large vessel of wood or stone, with a cock in it, and pour upon
them as much boiling water as will cover them. As soon as
the heat will permit the hand to be put into the vessel, bruise
them well till all the berries are broken. Then let them stand
covered till the berries begin to rise towards the top, which
they usually do in three, or four days. Draw off the clear into
another vessel, and add to every ten quarts of this liquor one
pound of sugar. Stir it well in, and let it stand to work a
week or ten days, in another vessel like the first. Then draw
it off at the cock through a jelly-bag into a large vessel. Take
four ounces of isinglass, and lay it to steep twelve hours in a
pint of white wine. The next morning boil it up on a slow fire
till it is all dissolved. Then take a gallon of blackberry juice,
put in the dissolved isinglass, give them a boil together, and
MADE WINES. . 325
pour all into the vessel. Let it stand a few days to purge and
settle, then draw it off, and keep it in a cool place.
Gooseberry Wine.
GOOSEBERRIES for this purpose must be gathered in dry
weather, and when they are only half ripe. Pick and bruise a
peck of them in a tub ; then take a horse-hair cloth, and press
them as much as possible without breaking the seeds. Hav-
ing pressed out all the juice, to every gallon of gooseberries
put three pounds of fine dry powdered sugar. Stir all toge-
ther till the sugar is dissolved, and then put it into a vessel
or cask, which must be quite filled. If it be ten or twelve
gallons, let it stand a fortnight; but if a twenty gallon cask,
it must stand three weeks. Set it in a cool place, then draw it
off from the lees, and pour in the clear liquor again. If a
ten gallon cask, let it stand three months; if a twenty gallon
cask, four months, and then bottle it off.
Pearl Gooseberry Wine.
TAKE the best pearl gooseberries, bruise them, and let them
stand all night ; the next morning press or squeeze them out,
and let the liquor stand to settle seven or eight hours: then
pour off the clear from the settling, and measure it as it is
put into the vessel, adding to every three pints of liquor a
pound of double-refined sugar. Break the sugar in small
lumps, and put it into the vessel, with a piece of isinglass.
Stir it up, and at three months end bottle it, putting a lump
of double-refined sugar into every bottle.
Damson Wine.
GATHER the damsons on a dry day, weigh them, and then
bruise them ; put them into a steen that has a cock in it,
and to every eight pounds of fruit put a gallon of water.
Boil the water, skim it, and put it scalding hot to the fruit.
Let it stand two days, then draw it off, and put it into a ves-
sel, and to every gallon of liquor put two pounds and a half
of fine sugar : fill up the vessel, and stop it close, and the
longer it stands the better. Keep it twelve months in the ves-
sel, and then bottle it, putting a lump of sugar into every
bottle. The small damson is the best for this purpose.
Orange Wine.
TAKE six gallons of spring water, and boil it three quarters
of an hour, with twelve pounds of the best powder sugar,
and the whites of eight or ten eggs well beaten. When it is
326 MADE WINES.
cold, put into it six spoonfuls of yeast. Take the juice of
twelve lemons, which being pared, must stand with two pounds
of white sugnr in a proper vessel, and in the morning skim off
the top, and put it into the water. Then add the juice and rinds
of fifty oranges, but not the white parts of the rinds, and
then let them work all together for forty-eight hours. Then
add two quarts of the Rhenish or white wine, and put it into
the vessel.
Or, take thirty pounds of new Malaga raisins, picked clean ;
chop them small, and take twenty l.ir^e Seville oranges, ten
of which pare as thin as for preserving. Boil about eight
gallons of soft water till one third. of it is wasted, and let it
cool a little. Then put five gallons of it hot upon the raisins
and orange-peel, stir it well together, cover it up, and when
it is cold, let it stand five days, stirring it once or twice
a day. Then pass it through a hair sieve, and Avith a spoon
press it as dry as possible. Put it in a rundlet fit for it, and
put to it the rinds of the other ten oranges, cut as thin as the
first. Then make a syrup of the juice of twenty oranges,
with a pound of white sugar. It must be made the day be-
fore it is tunned up. Stir it well together, and stop it close ;
let it stand two months to clear, and then bottle it up. It will
be better at the end of the third year than at the first.
Lemon Wine.
PARE off the rinds of six large lemons, cut them, and
squeeze out the juice, steep the rinds in the juice, and put
to it -a quart of brandy : let it stand three days in an earthen
pot close stopped ; then squeeze six more, and mix it with
two quarts of spring water, and as much sugar as will sweeten
the whole. Boil the water, lemons, and sugar together, and
let it stand till it be cool. Then add a quart of white wine,
and the other lemons and brandy, then mix them together,
and run it through a flannel bag into some vessel. Let it
stand three months, and then bottle it off. Cork the bottles
well, keep it cool, and it will be fit to drink in a month or
six weeks.
Or, pare five dozen of lemons very thin, put the peels into
five quarts of French brandy, and let them stand fourteen
days. Then make the juice into a syrup with three pounds of
single-refined sugar, and when the peels are ready, boil fif-
teen gallons of water, with forty pounds of single-refined su-
gar, tor half an hour. Then put it into a tab, and when cool,
add to it one spoonful of barm, and let it work two days.
Then tun it, and put in the brandy, peels, and syrup. Stir
them all together, and close up the cask. Let it stand three
MADE WINES. 321
months, then botile it, and it will be as pale and as fine as any
citron water.
Currant Wine.
LET the currants be full I'ipe, and gathered on a dry day;
strip them, put them into a large, pan, and bruise them with a
wooden pestle ; let them stand in a tub or pan twenty-four
hours to ferment, then run it through a hair-sieve, and do not
let the hand touch the liquor. To every gallon of this liquor
put two pounds and a half of white sugar, stir it well toge-
ther, and put it into the vessel. To e.very six gallons put in
a quart of brandy, and let it stand six weeks. If it is then
fine, bottle it ; but if not, draw it off as clear as possible into
another vessel or large bottles, and in a fortnight put it into
smaller bottles.
Raisin Wine.
PUT two hundredweight of raisins, stalks and all, into a
large hogshead, and fill it with water. Let them steep a fort-
night, stirring them every clay; then pour off the liquor, and
press the raisins. Put both liquors together into a nice clean
vessel that will just hold it, for it must be full. Let it stand
till it has done hissing, or making the least noise; then stop
it close, and let it stand six months. Peg it, and if not quite
clear, rack it off in another vessel. Stop it again close, and
let it stand three months longer. Then bottle it, and when
used, rack it off into a decanter.
Grape Wine.
To a gallon of grapes put a gallon of water. Bruise the
grapes, let them stand a week without stirring, and then draw
it off fine. Put to a gallon of the wine three pounds of sugar,
and then put it into a vessel, but do not stop it till it has
done hissing.
Cherry Wine.
When cherries are full ripe, pull them off the stalks, and
press them through a hair-sieve. To every gallon of liquor
put two pounds of lump sugar finely beaten, then stir it to-
gether, and put it into a vessel, which must be filled. When
ft has done working, and ceases to make any noise, stop it
close for three months, and bottle it off.
Raspberry Wine.
WITH the back of a spoon bruise the finest raspberries,
strain them through a flannel bag into a stone jar. To
328 MADE WINES.
each quart of juice put a pound of double-refined sugar, then
stir it well together, and cover it close. Let it stand three
days, and pour it off clear. To a quart of juice put two
quarts of white wine, and bottle it off. It will be fit for
drinking in about a week.
Apricot Wine.
TAKE three pounds of sugar, and three quarts of water ; let
them boil together, and skim it well. Then put in six
pounds of apricots pared and stoned, and let them boil till
they are tender. Take them up, and when the liquor is cold
bottle it up. Or, after the apricots are taken out, let the
liquor have a boil with a sprig of flowered clary in it. The
apricots will make marmalade, and be very good for present
use.
Plum Wine.
TAKE twenty pounds of Malaga raisins, pick, rub, and
shred them, and put them into a tub; then take four gallons
of water, boil it an hour, and let it stand till milk-warm. Put
in the raisins, and let it stand nine or ten days, stirring it
once or twice each day. Strain out the liquor, and mix it
with two quarts of damson juice. Put it into a vessel, and
when it has done working, stop it up close. Let it stand
four or five months, and then bottle it.
Mulberry Wine.
GATHER mulberries when they are just changed from their
redness to a shining black, and be sure to gather them on a
dry day, when the sun has taken off the dew. Spread them
thinly on a fine cloth on a floor or table for twenty-four hours.
Boil up a gallon of water to each gallon of juice gotten out
of them ; then skim the water well, and add a little cinnamon
slightly bruised. Put to each gallon six ounces of white su-
gar-candy finely beaten ; then skim and strain the water, when
it has been taken off and has settled, and put it to the juice
of some more mulberries. To every gallon of the liquor add
a pint of white wine or Rhenish vrine. Let it stand in a cask
to purge or settle for five or six days, and then draw off the
wine and keep it cool.
Walnut Wine.
PUT two pounds of brown sugar and a pound of honey to
every gallon, of water; boil them half an hour, and take off
the scum. Put into the tub a handful of walnut leaves to
MADE WINES. 329
every gallon, and pour the liquor upon them. Let it stand
all night, then take out the leaves, and put in half a pint of
yeast. Let it work fourteen days, and beat it four or five
times a day, which will take off the sweetness. Then stop
up the cask, and let it stand six months.
Quince Wine.
TAKE twenty large quinces, gathered when they are dry
and full ripe. Wipe them clean with a coarse cloth, and
grate them with a large grater or rasp as near the cores as pos-
sible ; but do not touch the cores. Boil a gallon of spring
water, throw in the quinces, and let them boil softly about a
quarter of an hour. Then strain them well into an earthen
pan on two pounds of double-refined sugar. Pare the peel
off two large lemons, throw them in, and squeeze the juice
through a sieve. Stir it about till it is very cool, and then
toast a thin bit of bread very brown, rub a little yeast on it,
and let the whole stand close covered twenty-four hours. Take
out the toast and lemon, put the wine in a cask, keep it three
months and bottle it. If a twenty gallon cask, let it stand
six months before bottling it ; and remember, when straining
the quinces, to wring them hard in a coarse cloth.
Clary Wine.
TAKE twenty-four pounds of Malaga raisins, pick them
and chop them very small ; put them into a tub, and to each
pound put a quart of water : let them steep ten or eleven
days, stirring it twice every day, and mind to keep it covered.
Then strain it off, and put it into a vessel, with about half a
peck of the tops of clary, when it is in blossom. Stop it
close for six weeks, and then bottle it off. In two or three
months it will be fit to drink. As it is apt to have a great se-
diment at bottom, it will be best to draw it off by plugs, or
rap it pretty high.
Birch Wine.
THE beginning of March is the season for procuring the li-
quor from the birch trees, while the sap is rising, and before
the leaves shoot out ; for when the sap is come forward, and
the leaves appear, the juice, by being long digested in the
bark, grows thick and coloured, which before was thin and
clear. The method of procuring the juice is, by boring holes
in the body of the tree, and putting in fossets, which are
usually made of the branches of elder, the pith being taken
out. Yon may, without hurting the tree, if it be large, tap
it in several places, four or five at a time, and by that mean*
330 MADE WINES.
save, from a good many trees, several gallons every day. If
you do not get enough in one day, the bottles in which it
drops must be corked clo.->e, and rosined or waxed ; however,
make use of it as soon as you can, Take the sap, and boil it
as long as any scum will rise, skimming it all tiie time. To
every gallon of liquor put four pounds of good sugar, and
the thin peel of a lemon. Then boil it half an hour, and keep
skimming it well. Pour it into a clean tub, and when it is
almost cold, set it to work with yeast spread upon a toast.
Let it stand five or six days, stirring it often. Then take a
cask just large enough to hold all the liquor, fire a large
match dipped in brimstone, and throw it into the cask. Stop
it close till the match is extinguished, then tun the wine, lay
the bung on lightly till it has done working, then stop it close,
and after three months bottle it.
Or, to a hogshead of birch water take four hundred of Ma-
laga raisins ; pick them clean from the stalks, and cut them
small. Then boil the birch liquor for one hour at least, skim
it well, and let it stand till no warmer than milk. Then put in
the raisins, and let it stand close covered, stirring it well four
or five times every day. Boil all the stalks in a gallon or
two of birch liquor, which, when added to the other when
almost cold, will give it an agreeable roughness. Let it stand
ten days, then put it in a cool cellar, and when it has done
hissing in the vessel, stop it up close. It must stand at least
nine months before it is bottled.
Cowslip Wine.
TAKE twelve pounds of sugar, the juice of six lemons, the
whites of four eggs well beaten, and six gallons of water.
Put all together in a kettle, and let it boil half an hour, taking
care to skim it well. Take a peck -of cowslips, and put them
into a tub, with the thin peeling of six lemons. Then pour
on thfe'boiling liquor, and stir them about, and when it is al-
most cold, put in a thin toast, baked hard, and rubbed with
yeast. Let it stand two or three days to work. Six ounces
of syrup of citron or lemon, with a quart of Rhenish wine,
added before tunning, will be a great improvement. The
third day strain it off, and squeeze the cowslips through a
coarse cloth. Then strain it through a flannel bag, and tun
it up. Leave the bung loose for two or three days till it has
done working, and then bung it down tight. Let it stand three
months and bottle it.
Turnip Wine.
TAKE turnips, pare and slice them, put them into a cyder
press, and press out all the juice; to every gallon of juice
MADE WINES. 331
put three pounds of lump sugar, put both into a vessel just
big enough to hold them, and add to every gallon of juice
half a pint of brandy. Lay some thing over the bung for a
week, and when it has done working, bung it down close.
When it has stood three months, draw it off into another
vessel, and when fine, put it into bottles.
Elder Wine.
GATHER elder berries when ripe, put them into a stone jar,
or set them in the oven, or in a kettle of boiling water, till the
jar is hot enough. Then take them out, and strain' them
through a hair cloth, wringing the berries, and put the juice
into a clean kettle. To every quart of juice put a pound of
fine Lisbon sugar, then let it boil, and skim it well. When it
is clear and fine, pour it into a jar, and when cold, cover it
close, and keep it till you make raisin wine. When you tun
the raisin wine, to every gallon put half a pint of the elder
syrup. This is more properly called elder raisin wine.
Or, take the flowers of elder, and take care not to let any
stalks in ; to every quart of flowers put one gallon of water,
and three pounds of loaf sugar. Boil the water and sugar a
quarter of an^hour, tlien pour it on the flowers, and let it work
three days. Then strain the wine through a hair sieve, and
put it into a cask. To every ten gallons of wine add an ounce
of isinglass dissolved in cyder, and six whole eggs. Close it
up, let it stand six months, and then bottle it.
Rose Wine.
TAKE a well-glazed earthen vessel, and put into it three
gallons of rose water drawn with a cold still. Put into that a
sufficient quantity of rose leaves, cover it close, and set it for
an liour in a kettle or copper of hot water, to take out the
whole strength and tincture of the roses ; and when it. hs cold,
press the rose leaves hard into the liquor; and steep fresh
ones in it, repeating it till the liquor has got the full strength
of the roses. To every gallon of liquor put three pounds of
loaf sugar, and stir it well, that it may melt and disperse in
every part. Then put it into a cask or other convenient ves-
sel, to ferment, and put into it a piece of bread toasted hard
and covered with yeast. Let it stand about thirty clays, when
it will be ripe, and have a fine flavour, having the whole
strength and scent of the roses in it; and may be greatly im-
proved, by adding to it wine and spices. By this method of
infusion, wine of carnations, clove gilliflower, violets, prim-
roses, or any other flower, having a curious scent, may be
made.
332 MADE WINES.
Barley Wine.
BOIL half a pound of French barley in three waters, and
save three pints of the last water. Mix it with a quart of
white wine, half a pint of borage water, as much clary water,
a little red rose water, the juice of five or six lemons, three
quarters of a pound of fine sugar, and the thin yellow rind of
a lemon. Mix all these well together, run it through a strainer,
and bottle it up. It is pleasant in hot weather, and is very good
in fevers.
English Fig Wine.
TAKE the large blue figs, when pretty ripe, and steep them
in white wine, having made some slits in them, that they may
swell and gather in the substance of the wine : then slice some
other figs, and let them simmer over a fire in water till re-
duced to a kind of pulp. Strain out the water, pressing the
pulp hard, and pour it as hot as possible on the figs that are
imbrued in the wine. Let the quantities be nearly equal, but
the water somewhat more than the wine and figs. Let them
stand twenty-four hours, mash them well together, and draw
off what will run without squeezing. Then press the rest, and
if not sweet enough, add a sufficient quantity of sugar, to
make it so. Let it ferment, and add a little honey and sugar-
candy to it ; then fine it with whites of eggs and a little isin-
glass, and draw it off for use.
O '
Ginger Wine.
BOIL seven pounds of Lisbon sugar in four gallons of spring
water for a quarter of an hour, and skim it well. When the
liquor is cold, squeeze in the juice of two lemons, and then
boil the peels, with two ounces of ginger, in three pints of
water for an hour. When cold, put it all together into a bar-
rel, with two spoonsful of yeast, a quarter of an ounce of isin-
glass beat very thin, and two pounds of jar raisins. Then
close it up, let it stand seven weeks, and bottle it. The spring
is the best season for making it.
Sycamore Wine.
BOIL two gallons of the sap half an hour, and then add to
it four pounds of fine powdered sugar. Beat the whites of
three eggs to a froth, and mix them with the liquor; but take
care that it is not too hot, as that will poach the eggs. Skim
it well, and boil it half an hour. Then strain it through a
hair sieve, and let it stand till next day. Pour it clean from the
MADE WINES. 333
sediment, put half a pint of yeast to every twelve gallons, and
cover it close up with blankets. Then put it into the barrel,
and leave the bung hole open till it has done working. Close
it up well, and after it has stood three months, bottle it. The
fifth part of the sugar must be loaf : and raisins will be a great
improvement to the wine.
Sack Mead (Vine.
To every gallon of water put four pounds of honey, and
boil it three quarters of an hour, taking care properly to skim
it. To each gallon add half an ounce of hops, then boil it
half an hour, and let it stand till the next day. Put it into a
cask, and to thirteen gallons of the above liquor add a quart of
brandy or sack. Let it be lightly closed till the fermentation
is done, and stop it up very close. If a large cask, do not
bottle it till it has stood a year.
Walnut Mead.
To every gallon of water put three pounds and a half of
honey, and boil them together three quarters of an hour. To
every gallon of liquor put about two dozen of walnut leaves,
pour the liquor boiling hot upon them, and let them stand all
night : take out the leaves, put in a spoonful of yeast, and let
it work two or three days. Then make it up, and after it has
stood three months, bottle it.
Cowslip Mead.
To fifteen gallons of water put thirty pounds of honey, and
boil it till one gallon is wasted. Skim it, take it off" the fire,
and have ready sixteen lemons cut in halves. Take a gallon
of the liquor, and put it to the lemons. Put the rest of the
liquor into a tub, with seven pecks of cowslips, and let them
stand all night. Put in the liquor with the lemons, eight
spoonsful of new yeast, and a handful of sweetbriar ; stir them
all well together, and let it work three or four days. Then
strain it, put it into a cask, and after k it has stood six months,
bottle it.
Mead Wine.
To one hundred and twenty gallons of pure water, the softer
the better, put fifteen gallons of clarified honey. When the
honey is well mixed with the water, fill a copper, which holds
only sixty gallons, and boil it till it is reduced about a fourth
part. Draw it off, and boil the remainder of the liquor in the
same manner. When this last is about a fourth part wasted,
$34- MADE WINES.
fill up the copper with some of that which was first boiled,
and continue boiling it and filling it up, till the copper con-
tains the whole of the liquor, by which time it will of course
be half evaporated. In boiling, never take off the scum, but,
on the contrary, have it well mixed with the liquor whilst
boiling, by means of a jet. When this is done, draw it off
into under backs, by a cock at the bottom of the copper, in
which let it remain till only as warm as new milk. At this
time tun it up, and suffer it to ferment in the vessel, where
it will form a thick head. As soon as it is done working, stop
it down very close, in order to keep the air from it as much
as possible. Keep this in a cool cellar, so as not to be at all
affected by the change of weather.
Or, take eighty pounds of purified honey to one hundred
and twenty gallons of soft water, and manage in the making,
in all respects, like the first above mentioned, it proves very
pleasant, good, light drinking, and is by many preferred to
the other, which is much richer, and has a fuller flavour,
but at the same time it is more inebriating. Many like mead
when it has an aromatic flavour , and for this purpose they mix
elder, rosemary, and marjoram flowers with it ; and also use
cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and cardamums, in various propor-
tions, according to their taste. Others put in a mixture of
thyme, eglantine, marjoram, and rosemary, with various
spices ; but green herbs are apt to make mead drink flat ; and
too many cloves, besides being very predominant in the taste,
make it of too high a colour. Never bottle mead before it is
half a year old ; and take care to have it well corked, and
keep it in the same vault wherein it stood whilst in the cask.
Balm Wine.
TAKE forty pounds of sugar and nine gallons of water, boil
it gently for two hours, skim it well, and put it into a tub to
cool ; take two pounds and a half of the tops of balm, bruise
them, and put them into a barrel with a little new yeast ; and
when the liquor is cold, pour it on the balm. Stir it well to-
gether, and let it stand twenty-four hours, stirring it often.
Then close it up, and let it stand six weeks. Rack it off, and
put a lump of sugar into every bottle. Cork it well, and it
will be better the second year than the first.
Mountain Wine.
PICK out the large stalk of Malaga raisins, chop them very
small, and put five pounds of them to every gallon of cold
spring water. Let them steep a fortnight or more, then
MADE WINES. 33
squeeze out the liquor, and put it into a small vessel that will
just hold it; but first fume it with brimstone. Do not stop it
up till the hissing is over.
Cyprus Wine.
To nine gallons of water, put nine quarts of the jiffce of
the white elder berries, which have been pressed gently from
the berries with the hand, and passed through a sieve with-
out bruising the kernels of the berries. Add to every gallon
of liquor three pounds of Lisbon sugar, and to the whole
quantity put an ounce and a. half of ginger sliced, and three
quarters of an ounce of cloves. Then boil all near an hour,
taking off the scum as it rises, and pour the whole to cool in an
open tub, and work it with ale yeast spread upon a toast of
white bread for three days ; then turn it into a vessel that will
just hold it, adding about a pound and a half of raisins of the
sun split, to lie in the liquor till drawn off, which should not be
till the wine is fine.
Frontiniac Wine.
TAKE twelve pounds of white sugar, six pounds of raisins
of the sun cut small, and six gallons of water, and let them
boil an hour. Then take half a peck of the flowers of elder,
when they are falling, and will shake off. Put them in the li-
quor when it is almost cold, and the next day put in six
spoonsful of the syrup of lemons, and four spoonsful of ale
yeast. Two days afterwards put it into a vessel that will just
hold it, and when it has stood two months, bottle it off.
English Champaign,,
To three gallons of water put nine pounds of Lisbon Sugar,
and boil the water and sugar half an hour, observing to skim
it well. Then take a gallon of white currants picked, but not
bruised, and pour the liquor boiling hot over them. When
nearly cold, put into it some barm, keep working it for two
days, and then strain it through a rlannel or sieve. Put it
into a barrel that will just hold it, with half an ounce of isin-
glass well bruised. When it has done working, stop it close
for a month, then bottle ic, and in every bottle put a very small
lump of double-refined sugar.
Saragossa Wine, or English Sack.
PUT a sprit; of rue into every quart of water, and to every
gallon put a handful of fennel roots. Boil these half an hour,
then strain it, and to every gallon of liquor put three pounds
336 MADE WINES.
of hopey. Boil it two hours, and skim it well. When cold,
pour it off, and turn it into a cask or vessel that will just hold
it. Keep it a year in the vessel, and then bottle it.
Palermo Wine.
To every quart of water put a pound of Malaga raisins, rub
and cut them small, and put them into the water; let them
stand ten days, stirring them once or twice every day. Boil
the water an hour before putting it to the raisins, and let it
stand to cool. At (en days' end strain out the liquor, and put
a little yeast to it. At the end of three days put it into the
vessel, with a sprig of dried wormwood. Let it be stopped
close, and at the end of three months, bottle it.
Vino Pontificate.
STEEP the zest rinds of six oranges and six lemons twenty-
four hours in a gallon of good brandy, close stopped ; boil a
pound and a half of loaf sugar in two gallons of water a quar-
ter of an hour, and clarify it with the whites of ten eggs.
When cold, add the juice of twenty-four oranges and five
lemons to the gallon of brandy. Then mix all together, and
strain off the rinds. Put the liquor into a cask well stopped,
and after six weeks draw it into bottles, when it will be fit for
use ; but will grow the better for keeping.
Raspberry Brandy.
TAKE a pint of water and two quarts of brandy, and put
them into a pitcher large enough to hold them and four pints
of raspberries. Put in half a pound of loaf sugar, and let it re-
main for a week close covered. Then take a piece of flannel,
with a piece of Holland over it, and let it run through by
degrees. It may be racked into other bottles a week after,
and then it will be perfectly fine.
Black Cherry Brandy.
STONE eight pounds of black cherries, and put on them a
gallon of the best brandy ; bruise the stones in a mortar, and
put them into the brandy ; cover them up close, and let them
stand a month or six weeks. Then pour it clear from the se-
diments, and bottle it. Morello cherries, managed in this
manner, make a fine rich cordial.
Lemon Brandy.
PUT five quarts of'water to one gallon of brandy, take two
dozen of lemons, two pounds of the best s\igar, and three
MADE WINES. 331
pints of milk ; pare the lemons very thin, and lay the peel to
steep in the brandy twelve hours. Squeeze the lemons upon
the sugar, then put the water to it, and mix ail the ingredients
together. Boil the milk, and pour it in boiling hot. Let it
stand twenty-four hours, and strain it.
Orange Brandy.
PUT the chips of eighteen Seville oranges in three quarts
of brandy, and let them steep a fortnight in a stone bottle
close stopped : boil two quarts of spring water with a pound
and a half of the finest sugar, near an hour very gently. Cla-
rify the water and sugar with the white of an egg, then strain
it through a jelly-bag, and boil it near half way. When it is
cold, strain the brandy into the syrup.
White Currant Shrub.
HAVING stripped the fruit, prepare in ajar as for jelly : piu
one gallon of rum, and two pounds of lump sugar to two quarts
of the strained juice, and strain through a jelly-bag till clear:
bottle for use.
Norfolk Punch.
HAVING pared six lemons and three Seville oranges very
thin; squeeze the juice into an earthen pan, and add to it a
quart of white wine, a pound and a quarter of sugar, two
quarts of brandy, and one quart of milk : mix well together,
and cover close for twenty-four hours ; then strain through a
jelly-bag till clear, and bottle.
Milk Punch.
TAKE two pounds of sugar, an.l rub it upon six oranges
and six. lemons, in order to extract the essence; put the sugar
into four quarts of water : pare the oranges and lemons very
thin, putting the parings to steep in a bottle of rum or brandy
for twenty-four hours : squeeze the fruit on the sugar and
water, and add a quart of new milk boiling hot; mix well to-
gether, and add the parings and spirit : strain the whole
through a jelly-bag till clear, and bottle for use.
Noyau English.
BLANCH and bruise a quarter of a pound of peach ajid
apricot kernels; or, for want of these, a quarter of a pound of
bitter almonds,; put them into a pint of cold water, and let
dtiem stand tw"b hours; then add three pints of the juice ef
Z
338 MADE 'WINES.
white currants, three pounds of fine loaf sugar, the peels of
three lemons grated, and a gallon of brandy: stir well toge-
ther, letting all stand three days, then strain through a jelly-
bag, and bottle. Take the residue left in the bag, and pour
on it a quart of brandy, and let stand for three days ; strain
through a jelly-bag, and keep for flavouring custards, cakes 3 &c.
Liqueur au Citron.
HAVING pared eight large lemons, cut them and squeeze
out the juice ; steep the rinds in the juice, and add to it a quart
of brandy, and let it stand in a stone jar closely covered for
three days : squeeze eight more lemons, and mix with them
five pints of spring water, and five pounds of sugar; boil
these all together, skim clean, and let them stand till cool,
and add a quart of white wine, and the other lemon juice and
brandy, mix well together, run through a jelly -bag into a
cask, and after standing three months, bottle off, and keep in
a cool place.
Malt Spirits
MAY be freed from their nauseous flavour, and rendered fit
for making liqueurs and other compounds, by the following
mode : to every quart of English brandy add three ounces
and a half of fresh-burnt charcoal reduced to powder, shake
well together, and keep in a bottle closely stopped for two
days: decant by means of a syphon, or strain through blot-
ting paper.
Or, in Distillation, tie to the nose of the worm a flannel
bag, containing two ounces of powdered charcoal for every
quart of spirit intended to be distilled, and let the spirit run
through the bag.
MAY be freed from its disagreeable flavour, and rendered
fit to use instead of sugar, in many cases, by the following
mode: take twenty-four pounds of treacle, twenty-four pounds
of water, and six pounds of charcoal coarsely powdered ; mix
together in a kettle, and boil the whole over a slow wood fire :
after boiling half an hour, pour it into a flat vessel, in order
that the charcoal may subside to the bottom ; draw off the
liquid by a syphon, or pour it off without disturbing the
charcoal : put it into a clean kettle, set over a slow fire, and
evaporate till of the former consistence. Twenty -four pounds
of treacle will thus produce an equal weight of pure syrup,
fit for most domestic purposes where sugar is intended to be
used.
CORDIAL WATERS 339
CHAPTER II,
CORDIAL WATERS.
PRELIMINARY HINTS AND OBSERVATIONS.
WHEN your still is a limbec, fill the top with cold water
when you set it on, make a little paste of flour and water,
and close the bottom of the still well with it. Take great care
that your fire be not so hot as to make it boil over, as that
will weaken the strength of the water. You must frequently
change your water on the top of your still, and never let it be
scalding hot, for your still will drop gradually off. If you
use a hot Still, when you put on the top, dip a cloth in white
lead and oil, and lay it well over the edges of your still, and a
coarse wet cloth over tHe top. It will require little fire under
it ; but you must be sure to keep it very clear. When your
cloth is dry, dip it in cold water, and lay it on again ; and if
your still be very hot, wet another cloth, and lay it round
the top. If you use a worm-still, keep the wnter in your
tub full to the top, and change it often, to prevent its growing
hot. All simple waters must stand two or three days before
you work it, in order to take off the fiery taste which the still
gives it.
Parfetto Amore.
, INFUSE in a gallon of best brandy the rind, pared thin, of six
large fresh lemons cut in small pieces; five cloves, five co-
riander seeds, a handful of currants, a little cinnamon, and a
little salt ; let them remain in steep twelve hours ; put toge-
ther into the still, and draw off two quarts. Take two pounds
of lump sugar, boiled and clarified in two quarts of water
with three eggs ; take also a little alum and cream of tartar,
mix together with a little boiling water, and rub well down in
a marble mortar; strain through a sieve, and add to the cla-
rified syrup: mix the distilled spirit with the whole, and filter
through blotting paper.
Pcrsico.
INFUSE in a gallon of the best brandy, six ounces of bitter
almonds beaten in a mortar, two cloves, half an ounce of cin-
namon, and a little salt ; let them steep twenty-four hours '-
z 2
34O CORDIAL WATERS.
put into a still, and draw off two quarts ; boil two pounds of
lump sugar in two quarts of water, skimming it, and when
cool, add it to the spirit.
Cornelia.
INFUSE in a gallon of best brandy four ounces of best cin-
namon, thirteen coriander seeds, thirty cloves, and a little
salt, for eighteen hours: put into a still, and draw off till the
faints rise. Take two pounds of lump sugar, boiled and cla-
rified in five pints of water, with three whites of eggs well
beaten : mix with the spirit, and filter through blotting
paper.
Geroufle
Is made with cloves instead of cinnamon, adding one ounce
of best cinnamon to it,
Anniseed
Is made like cloves, adding cinnamon to the palate.
Coffee and Chocolate
ARE made by taking one pound of either, infusing in a
gallon of best brandy, with four cloves, and half an ounce of
cinnamon : draw off two quarts, and sweeten to the palate.
Cordial Water.
TAKE wormwood, horebound, feverfew, and lavender cot-
ton, of each three handsful ; rue, peppermint, and Seville
orange peel, of each a handful. Steep them in red wine, or
the bottoms of strong beer, all night. Then distil them
pretty quick in a hot still, and it will be a fine cordial to take
as bitters.
Angelica Water.
TAKE eight handfuls of the leaves of angelica, wash and
cut them, and lay them on a table to dry. When dry put
them into an earthen pot, and put to them four quarts of
strong wine lees. Let it infuse twenty-four hours, but stir it
twice in the time. Then put it into a warm still or an alembic,
and draw it off. Cover the bottles with a paper, and prick
holes in it, and let it stand two or three days. Then mix all
together, sweeten it, and when it is settled, bottle it up, and
stop it close.
CORDIAL WATERS. 341
Peppermint Water.
PEPPERMINT must be gathered when it is full grown, and be.-
fore it seeds. Cut it in short lengths, fill the still with it, and
cover it with water. Then make a good fire under it, and
when it is near boiling, and the still begins to drop, if the fire
is too hot, draw a little from under it, to keep it from boiling
over, or the water Avill be muddy. The slower the still drops,
the clearer and stronger will be the water; but do not spend
it too far. The next day bottle it, and let it stand three or
four days, to take off the fiery taste of the still. Then cork it
well, and it will keep a long time.
Milk Water.
TAKE the herbs agrimony, endive, fumitory, balm, elder
flowers, white nettles, water cresses, bank cresses, and sage,
of each three handsful; eyebright, brooklime, and celandine,
of each two handsful; the roses of yellow dock, red madder,
fennel, horse-radish, and liquorice, of each three ounces ;
stoned raisins one pound; nutmeg sliced, winter bark, tur-
meric, and galangal,of each two drachms ; carroway and fennel
seeds, of each three ounces, and one gallon of milk. Distil
all with a gentle fire in one day.
Rose Water.
GATHER red roses when they are dry and full blown ; pick
off the leaves, and to every peck put a quart of water. Then
put them into a cold still, and make a slow fire under it ; for
the slower it is distilled, the better it will be. Then bottle it,
and in two or three days' time cork it.
Cordial Poppy Water.
TAKE a peck of poppies, and two gallons of very good
brandy. Put them together in a wide-mouthed glass, let them
stand forty-eight hours, and then strain them out. Stone a
pound of raisins of the sun, and take an ounce of coriander
seeds, an ounce of sweet fennel seeds, and an ounce of li-
quorice sliced. Bruise them all together, and put them into
the brandy, with a pound of good powder sugar. Let them
stand four or eight weeks, shaking them every day ; then
strain it off, and bottle it up close.
Penny-Royal Water.
GATHER penny-royal when it is full grown, and before it is
in blossom. Then fill the cold still with it, and put it half
342 CORDIAL WATERS,
full of water. Make a moderate fire under it, and distil it oft'
cold. Then put it into bottles, and, after two or three days,
cork it up close.
Treacle Water.
TAKE four pounds of the juice of green walnuts; rue, car-
duus, marigolds, and balm, of each three pounds; roots of but-
ter-bur, half a pound; roots of burdock, one pound ; angelica
and masterwort, of each half a pound ; leaves of scordium, six
handsful; Venice treacle, and rnithridate, of each half a
pound ; old Canary wine, two pounds ; white-wine vinegar,
six pounds, and the same quantity of the juice of lemons.
Distil all these in an alembic. -
Lady Monmouth's Treacle Water.
TAKE three ounces of hartshorn, shaved, and boiled in
borage water, or succory, wood -sorrel, or respice water, or
three pints of any of these waters boiled to a jelly, and put
the jelly and hartshorn both into the still. Aad a pint more
of these waters when put into the still. Take the root of ele-
campane, gentian, cypress, tuninsil, of each an ounce; bless-
ed thistle, called catduus, and angelica, of each an ounce;
sorrel-roots, two ounces ; balm, sweet marjoram, and burnet,
of each half a handful; lily-convally flowers, borage, bugloss,
rosemary, and marigold flowers, of each two ounces ; citron
rinds, carduus seeds, citron seeds, alkermes berries, and cochi-
neal, each of these an ounce. Prepare all these simples thus :
Gather the flowers as they come in season, and put them in
glasses with a large mouth. Put with them as much good
sack as will cover them, and tie up the glasses close with
bladders wet in the sack, with a cork and leather upon that,
adding more flowers and sack. Put cochineal into a pint
bottle, with half a pint of sack, and tie it up close with a
bladder under the cork, and another on the top, wet with
sack. Then cover it up close with leather, and bury it, stand-
ing upright in a bed of hot horse dung, nine or ten days.
Then look at it, and if it is dissolved, take it out of the dung,
but do not open it till it is distilled. Slice all the roots, beat
the seeds and berries, and put them into another glass. Put
no more sack among them than necessary ; and when in-
tended to distil, take a pound of the best Venice treacle, and
dissolve it in six pints of the best white wine, and three of red
rose water. Put all the ingredients together, stir them, and
Hstil them irj a glass still.
CORDIAL WATERS. 343
Lavender Water.
PUT a quart of water to every pound of lavender neps, put
them into a cold still, and make a slow fire under it. Distil it
off very slowly, and put it into a pot till all the water is
distilled. Then clean the still well out, and put the lavender
water into it, and distil it off as slowly as before. Put it into
bottles, and cork it well.
Walnut Water.
BRUISE well in a large mortar a peck of fine green wal-
nuts, put them into a pan, with a handful of balm bruised,
and two quarts of good Frencb brandy. Cover them close,
and let them lie three davs. Then distil them in a cold still ;
and from this quantity draw three quarts.
Aqua Mirabilis.
TAKE cubebs, cardamums, galingal, cloves, mace, nut-
megs, and cinnamon, of each two drachms, and bruise them
small. Then take a pint of the juice of celandine, half a pint
of the juice of spearmint, and the same quantity of the juice
of balm; flowers of melilot, cowslip, rosemary, borage, bug-
loss, and marigold, of each three drachms ; seeds of fennel,
coriander, and carraway, of each two drachms ; two quarts of
the best sack, and a quart of white wine; brandy, the strong 1 -
st angelica water, and rose water, of each a pint. Bruise
the spices and seeds, and steep them, with the herbs and
flowers, in the juices, waters, sack, white wine, and brandy,
all night. In the morning, distil it in a common still pasted
up, and from this quantity draw off a gallon at least. Sweeten
it to the taste with sugarcandy, then bottle it up, and keep it
in a cool place.
Blgck Cherry Water.
BRUISE six pounds of black cherries, and put to them the
tops of rosemary, sweet marjoram, spearmint, angelica, balm,
and marigold flowers, of each a handful; dried violets, an
ounce ; anise seeds, and sweet fennel seeds, of each half an
ounce bruised. Cut the herbs small, mix all together, and
distil them off in a cold still.
Surfeit Water.
TAKE scurvygrass, brooklime, water cresses, Roman worm-
wood, rue, mint, balm, sage, and clives, of each one handful;
green merery, two handsful ; poppies, if freib, half a peck ;
844
CORDIAL WATERS.
but if dry, only half that quantity ; cochineal and saffron,
six pennyworth of each ; anise seeds, carraway seeds, corian-
der seeds, and cardamum seeds, of each an ounce ; two
ounces of scraped liquorice, a pound of split figs, the same
quantity of r.tisins- of the sun stoned, an ounce of juniper
berries bruised, an ounce of beaten nutmeg, an ounce of mace
bruised, and the same of sweet fennel seeds also bruised ; a
few flowers of rosemary, marigold, and sage. Put all these
into a large stone jar, and put to them three gallons of
French brandy. Cover it close, and let it stand near the fire
for three weeks. Stir it three times a week, and be sure to
keep it closely stopped, and then strain it off. Bottie the li-
quor, and pour on the ingredients a bottle more of French
brandy. Let it stand a week, stirring it once a day, then
distil it in a cold still. This is best made in summer, but it
may be made at any time of the year in London, because the
ingredients are always to be had either green or dry.
Hysterical Water.
TAKE betony roots, lovage, and seeds of wild parsnip, of
each two ounces ; four ounces of roots of single peony,
three ounces of misletoe of the oak, a quarter of an ounce of
myrrh, and half an ounce of castor. Beat all these together,
and add to them a quarter of a pound of dry millepedes. Pour
on these three quarts of mugwort water, and two quarts of
brandy. Let them stand in a close vessel eight days, and then
distil them in a cold still pasted up. Draw off nine pints of
water, and sweeten it to the taste. Mix all together, and
bottle it up.
Orange or Lemon Water.
PUT three gallons of brandy and two quarts of sack to the
outer rinds of a hundred oranges or lemons, and let them
steep in it one night. Tne next day distil them in a cold
still. A gallon with the proportion of peels will be enough
for one still, and from that draw off better than three quarts.
Draw it off till it begins to taste sour. Sweeten it to the
taste with double-refined sugar, and mix the first, second, and
third runnings together. If lemon water, it should be per-
fumed with two grains of ambergris, and one of musk. Grind
them fine, tie them in a rag, and let it hang five or six days
iii each bottle ; or put into them three or four drops of tinc-
ture of ambergris. Be sure to cotk it well.
MALT LIQUORS. 345
Imperial Water.
TAKE a large jar, and put into it two ounces of cream of
tartar, with the juice and peels of two lemons. Pour on them
seven quarts of boiling water, and when it is cold, clear it
through a gauze sieve, sweeten it to the taste, and bottle it.
The next day it will be fit for use.
Spirits of Wine.
PUT the bottoms of strong beer, and any kind of wines,
into a cold still about three parts full. Then make a slow h're
under it, and take care to keep it moderate, otherwise it will
boil over, the body being so strong that it will rise to the top
of the still ; and the slower it is distilled, the stronger thu
spirit will be. Put it into an earthen pot whilst distilling,
and then clean the still well out. Put the spirit into it, and
distil it slowly as before, till it is strong enough to burn in a
lamp. Bottle it, and then cork it well.
Fever Water.
TAKE six ounces of Virginia sn.ike root, four ounces of
carduus seeds and marigold Howers, and twenty green wal-
nuts; carduus water, and poppy water, two quarts of each,
and two ounces of hartshorn. Slice the walnuts, and steep
all in the waters a fortnight. Then add to it an ounce of
London treacle, and distil the whole in an alembic pasted up.
CHAPTER III.
MALT LIQUORS.
1 HE first thing to be considered, is, undoubtedly, the being
provided with implements proper for the purpose, and of these
the copper appears to be the first object.
The position of the copper, and the manner of setting it,
must be duly considered, as much depends thereon. The
manner proper to be adopted is, to divide the fire by a stop ;
and, if the door and draught be in a direct line, the stop
should be erected from the middle of each outline of the
jgrating,and parallel with the centre sides of the copper. By
346 MALT LIQUORS.
this method, the middle of the fire will be directly under the
bottom of the copper. The stop is composed of a thin wall,
in the centre of the right and left sides of the copper, which
is to ascend half the height of the copper. On the top
must be left a cavity from four to six inches, for a draught for
the half part of the fire which is next the door of the cop-
per ; and then the building must close all round to the finish-
ing at the top.
By this mode of erecting the copper, the heat will commu-
nicate from the outward part of the fire round the outward
half of the copper, through the cavity, as does the furthest
part of the flue, which also contracts a conjunction of the
whole, and causes the flame gently and equally round the
bottom cf the copper.
Many are the advantages derived from this manner of pro-
ceeding, and the fuel saved thereby is no small object of con-
sideration. It has considerably the pre-eminence of wheel-
draughts ; for with them, if there be not particular attendance
given to the hops, by stirring them down, they are apt to
stick to the sides and scorch ; and this will undoubtedly very
much hurt the flavour of the liquor. The copper will also,
by this method, last many years more than it would by the
wheel draught; for that draws with so much violence, that
should the liquor be beneath the communication of the fire,
the copper will thereby be liable to be damaged : whereas,
by the other contrivances, you may boil half a copper full
without fear of injury. This must be allowed to be a great
advantage, as in all brewing it is impossible to draw it clean
off the mash.
In order to give greater expedition to the operation, you
may sometimes wish to extend this advantage to a few pails
full, which is done without prejudice to the other; for when
the whole of the other is clean drawn off, the copper will
accomplish the intended purpose next morning, which will
prevent interfering with your natural rest; for by running
the whole night, it will be ready to boil in the morning, and
be fit to add to the working of the other small beer, in time
to render the whole complete for tunning. By this method,
also, you are not under the necessity of having the copper
burned, which is a very troublesome and disagreeable busi-
ness, to unfix and refix large cocks, which is likewise attended
with great expense.
Another inconvenience too frequently found in coppers is,
their being made too exact to their intended quantity ; in
consequence of which, room is not left sufficient to boil the
liquor in with any degree of rapidity or safety, which must
naturally be supposed to be essential points. To remedy this
MALT LIQUORS. 347
inconvenience, let your carpenter prepare good seasoned
pieces of elm, or other proper wood, and shape it out like the
felly of a stage waggon-wheel, but only half its thickness, and
then join them round to compose the dimensions of the circle
of the copper. The rim of the copper, which generally
turns over as a bearing at the top, may be beat up, and that
part nailed to the bottom part of the wood-work, brushing
between the wood-work and the copper a cement composed
of bullock's blood and whiting, mixed only to the thickness
of common whitewash. This cement will prevent any leak,
and last as long as the copper.
Though the wood-work may be done with great safety all
round, yet it will be necessary to take this precaution, never
to let the wood-work join nearer than eight inches on each
side of the copper flue, or the communication of the heat.
If there be any apprehension of its penetrating through in
that direction, you must then nail either brass, copper, plate-
iron, or sheet-lead, whichever can be most conveniently got-
ten. Ir your neighbourhood cannot furnish you with these
matters, there wilt probably be always a sufficient supply in
your house of decayed pots, pans, or kettles, which may be
beat out to suit your purpose : any smith, tinker, or carpenter,
&c. can execute such a piece of work, observing the same
cement, which will be as good and as firm as solder in other
matters.
This work is of great support and ease to the copper ; and
by this mode you can also increase its dimensions from three
to twelve or more inches in the wood-work, which will add
considerably to your guage, especially in large coppers.
This method, however, is recommended only where stop-
draughts are made, use of, in which case the wood may be ap-
plied round with great safety; for the fires of those never burn
so furiously that the least damage can ensue. For the raisino-
of other coppers, built on different constructions, brick, stone,
or tarris mortar may be used.
The next to be considered are the coolers, and these are
things of no small consequence ; for, if they are not properly
taken care of, the liquor, Jby a seemingly secret and unac-
countable cause, will attract a disagreeable twang. This often
proceeds from \vet having been infused in the wood, as it is
sometimes apt to lodge in the crevices of old coolers, and even
infect them to such a degree, that it will not depart, though
many washings and scaldings are applied. One cause inci-
dental to this evil is permitting women to wash in a brew-
house, which ought by no means to be permitted, where any
other convenience is to be had j for nothing can be more hurt-
ful than the slops of soap-suds.
SIS MALT LIQUORS.
Be careful, in preparing the coolers, never to let the water
stand too long in them, as it will soak in, and soon turn pu-
trid, when the stench will enter the wood, and render them
almost incurable. To prevent such consequences, as well as
to answer good purposes, it has by some been recommended,
where all fixed brewhouses are intended, that all the coolers
should be leaded. In the first place such are exceedingly
cleanly; and, secondly, it expedites the cooling of part of
the liquor worts, which is very necessary to forward it for
working, as well as afterwards for cooling the whole ; lor
evaporation causes considerably more waste than proper
boiling. Chymists tell us, that the more the steam, the more
the strength of any fluid is exhausted ; as is further proved
by the still, where the steam being confined, the chief strength
is kept in ; but, being exposed to the air, it soon evaporates.
It will also be indispensably necessary, in the preparation of
your utensils, that the coolers be well scoured with cold water
two or three times ; cold water being more proper than hot to
effect a perfect cleansing, especially if they are in a bad con-
dition from the undiscovered filth that may be in the crevices.
The application of hot water will drive the infection further ;
or if your drink be let into the coolers, and if any remain in
the crevices, as before mentioned, the heat will collect the
foulness, and render the whole unwholesome.
Some pretended judges of this matter absurdly argue, that
ropiness in beer proceeds from the want of a sufficient quan-
tity of hops to dispel the glutinous richness arising from the
superiority of malt, which is a manifest mistake, except when
it is too much boiled, and receives bad management after-
wards. Others say, that it is by applying the water too sharp,
that is, too hot to mash with ; but, if the water did not produce
that fault, it has another equally as dangerous ; and that is,
when you mash with water so exceedingly hot, it is liable to
set the malt; which is clogging it up to such a degree, that it
is almost impossible to get it to run off; and when by art
you have accomplished the difficulty, it never answers your
wishes in point of goodness.
To show, by an experiment, the disagreements of heats and
colds, which must be applicable in the case of brewing, pro-
ceed thus : Take a pail of cold water, and throw it on a quan-
tity of grains, and it will almost immediately become ropy.
There are, however, some brewers so curious as to put cold
water on the mash, and vainly imagine that it gets out the
whole of the strength ; but this is a ridiculous notion, which
cannot get a favourable reception, notwithstanding they say it
makes excellent toplash, or rather rot-gut small beer.
It is very singular, that some families should have such an
MALT LIQUORS. 34*
aversion to the thoughts of brewing, which probably arises
from the terrible apprehensions they conceive of the expense
and incumbrance attending the fitting up of a brewhouse,
which is an ill-founded conception, and ought to have no
weight in a rational ruind. It is not from being sufficiently
competent to know better, that people set their faces against
brewing ; but it is from pride, that bane of all good, that sets
them above so inconsiderable a thought, as they deem it, and
a total negligence of their own and their country's welfare.
A whole set of coolers, properly made, may be removed from
house to house with great facility and little expense, and
with less injury than other furniture, provided they are made
according to the following directions:
Let strong frames be constructed for each cooler, in such a
manner, that they may be unwedged and taken asunder when
occasion requires. The outside frame should turn up pretty
high, that is, sufficiently thick and strong, to cut a proper
inlet to receive wedges for the purposes hereafter mentioned.
Form your coolers, which are to consist of only common
planed deal boards, and lay them even to fit on this frame,
which, from a projection and inlet, you can set the side to the
bottom, and it will be necessary that the inlet should be a Jit-
tie lower than where the bottom rests. By these means, the
wedges will have full power to tighten the sides to as great an
extremity as a hooped barrel ; and these wedges should be in
three regular directions on the sides, and at two places at each
end, which will form perfect firmness. If the coolers are
made in regular sizes under each other, you may set strong
casters in mortices under the legs, by which means you can
drive them under each other, so as the whole to go under the
uppermost, which is a good method of setting them out of
harm's way. By this method of construction, the chief of
your brewing utensils, the copper excepted, may be unwedged,
and with little trouble packed into a waggon, in the space of
two hours, and set up in another brewhouse in the like pro-
portionable time. If you should afterwards choose to dispose
of the materials, that may be done without loss, as the boards
will not be damaged by either pins, nails, or screws. When
a small quantity, such as a hogshead only, is required, they
may be made like drawers, pulling out in grooves, and resting
on tressels, which may be very conveniently put out of dan-
ger in the jnanner before directed.
Be particularly careful that the mash-tub be kept perfectly
clean : nor must the grains be left in the tub any longer than
the day after browing, lest it should sour the tub ; for if there
be a sour smell in the brewhouse before your beer is tunned, it
will be apt to infect your liquor and worts.
3 50 MALT LIQUOKS. ,
To render your tub the more perfect and lasting you should
have a circular piece of brass or copper, to inlay and line the
hole where the penstaff enters, to let the wort run off into
the under back. The penstaff should be also stoutly ferrelled
with the same metal, and both well and taperly finished, so
that you can place it properly. By this method you may
have it run from the fineness of a thread to the fulness of an
inch tube, &c. first dressing your muck-basket with straw,
fern, or little bushy furze without stems, six or eight inches in
from the bottom of your basket} and set quite perpendicularly
over the whole, with the penstaff through the centre of the
basket, and the middle of the furze or fern, and fastened into
the hole of the tub. To steady it properly, you must have
a piece of iron let into a staple fastened to the tub, at the
nearest part opposite to the basket, and to reach nearly to it ;
and from that place another added on a jointed swivel, or
any other contrivance, so as to be at liberty to let round the
basket like a dog-collar, and to enter into the staple formed
in the same to pin it fast, and by adding a half-circular turn
in the collar, in which you have room to drive in a wedge,
which will keep it safe down to the bottom, when there can
be no danger of its being disturbed by stirring the mash,
which will otherwise sometimes be the case. When you let
go, you will raise the penstaff to your own degree of running,
and then fasten the staff by the help of two wedges tightened
between the staff and the basket.
The copper-work, in process of time, like every thing
else, will become defective ; and when this is the case, the
following very simple remedy will make the parts as perfect
as ever: work the penstaff in the brass socket with emery
and water, or oil, which will make it perhaps more perfect
than when new, and many instances have been seen of this
method being used with cocks just purchased.
It would be no inconsiderable addition to the conveniency
of the under back, to have a piece of copper to line the whole
in the bottom, which may be stopped with a cloth put singly
round a large cork ; and when it is fastened down for the
wort to run, it will be necessary to put a large weight on the
cork, which will prevent its flying up by the heat. When the
liquor is pumped clean out of the back, the cloth round the
cork will enable you to take out the cork with ease ; and there
should be a drain below the under back to carry off the water,
which will enable you to wash it perfectly clean with very
little trouble. This drain should be made with a clear descent,
so that no damp may remain under the back. With the con-
venience of water running into your copper, you may be ena-
bled to work that water in a double quantity, your under
MALT LIQUORS. 351
back being filled by the means of letting it in at your lei-
sure, out of your copper, through a shoot to the mash-tub,
and so to the under back. Thus you will have a reserve
against the time you wish to fill your copper, which may be
completed in a few minutes, by pumping while the upper
cock is running. Thus much for the principal utensils in
brewing ; but be careful to keep every thing perfectly clean.
As we have now properly explained the precautions neces-
sary to be taken in the preparation of vessels, we shall enter
into a concise detail of what is to be observed in the course
of brewing.
Having your utensils scalded, your malt ground, your cop-
per boiling, and your penstaff well set, you must then pro-
ceed to mash, by letting a sufficient quantity of boiling water
into your tub, in which it must stand until the greater part of
the steam is gone off, or until you can see your own shadow
in it. It will then be necessary that one person should pour
the malt gently in, while another is carefully stirring it ; for
it is as necessary that as much care should be observed when
the mash is thin as when it is thick. This being effectually
and well done, and having a sufficient reserve of malt to cover
the mash, to prevent evaporation, you may cover your tub
with sacks, &c. and leave your malt three hours to steep.
Previous to your letting the mash run, you should not fail
to be prepared with a pail to catch the first flush, as that is
generally thickish ; and another pail being applied while you
return the first on the mash, and so on for two or three times,
or at least until it run fine. B} r this time your copper should
be boiling, and a convenient tub placed close to your mash-
tub ; let into it through your spout half the quantity of boil-
ing water you mean to use for drawing off your best wort.
After this, you must instantly turn your cock to fill up again,
which will boil in due time with cinders or coal-ashes. Dur-
ing such time, you must stop the mash with this hot water
out of the convenient tub, in moderate quantities, every eight
or ten minutes, until the whole is consumed ; then letting off
the remaining quantity, which will be boiling hot, to the finish-
ing purpose for strong beer.
You must then fill your copper quite full, so as to boil
quickly for the second mash, whether you intend it for ale
or small beer. Being thus far prepared, let off the remain-
ing quantity of water into the tub, as you did for the strong
beer, stopped up as before ; but if you would have small
beer besides, you must judge it accordingly, by boiling a
proper quantity off in due time, and letting it into the tub
as before. It is better to avoid the latter article, that you
may entirely draw out the strength for the ale.
352 MALT LIQUORS.
Twenty-four bushels of malt will make two hogsheads of
as good strong beer as any it) England, and also two hogs-
heads of very pretty ale, but the malt should consist of equal
portions of brown, amber, and pale. This strong beer should
be kept two or three years, and the ale never less than one,
before tapped. If your mash be oniv for one hogshead, it
should be two hours in running off; if for two hogsheads, two
hours and a half ; and for any greater quantity, three hours:
for there is no good in letting it be too long, as the whole
strength is extracted by the frequent stoppings.
You must be particular in the time of steeping your mashes.
Strong beer must be allowed three hours ; ale one hour ;
and, if you draw small beer after, half an hour. By this
mode of proceeding, your boilings will regularly take place
of each other, which will expedite the business, by prevent-
ing loss of time. Be particularly careful, in the course of
each mashing, that it be thoroughly stirred from the bottom,
and especially round the muck basket ; for, being well
shaken, it prevents a stagnation of the whole body of the
mash; and were this last process omitted, it would certainly
fox your beer, and give it an exceeding bad taste.
In preparing for boiling, be particularly careful to put the
hops in with the first wort, or it will char in a few minutes.
As soon as the copper is full enough, a good fire should be
made under it; but be careful, in filling it, to leave room
enough for boiling. Quick boiling is one of the most ne-
cessary things to be observed ; though in this particular there
are variety of opinions. However, there is perhaps but one
good method, and that is quick boiling. Great caution should
be observed when it begins to swell in waves in tiie copper;
if you have no assistant, be particularly attentive to its mo-
tions; and being provided with an iron rod of a proper
length, crooked at one end, and jagged at the other, then
with the crook you are enabled to open the furnace, or copper
door, and vith the other end push in the damper, without
stirring from your station ; but on the approach of the first
swell, you will have sufficient time to proportionate your
fire, as care should be taken that it be not too predominant.
When the boil is properly got under, you may t'.ien add a
fire that will boil briskly, and there may be a variation of a
few minutes.
With respect to the time it should boil, experienced brewers
proceed in this manner: They take a clean copper bowl
dish, to dip out some of the liquor, and when they discover a
working, and the hops sinking, they conclude it to be suffi-
ciently boiled. This is sometimes completed in thirty-five or
forty minutes j but this rule is often extended five or ten mi-
MALT LIQUORS. 353
iiutes, according to the different qualities of malt. Long and
slow boiling is very pernicious, as well as wasting the liquor ;
for the slower it boils, the lower it drops, and singes to your
copper ; whereas quick boiling has a contrary effect. Essence
of malt is extracted by length of boiling,-by which you can
make it to the thickness of honey or treacle, so that a small
quantity will weigh pounds. In some parts of Yorkshire,
they value their liquor for its great strength, by its affecting
the brain for two or three days after intoxication. 'This is the
effect of long boiling ; for in that county they boil liquor for
three hours ; and what is still worse, when it sinks in the cop-
per, from the waste in boiling, they every now and then add
a little fresh wort, which, without doubt must tend to several
stagnations, productive of several impurities.
lour liquor being properly boiled, be sure to traverse a
small quantity quite over all the coolers, so as to get a proper
quantity cold immediately to set to work; but if the airiness
of your brewhouse is not sufficient to expedite a quantity
soon, you must traverse a second quantity over the coolers,
and then let it into shallow tubs. Put these into any passage
where there is a thorough draught of air, but where no ram
or other wet can get communication to it. Then let off the
quantity of two baring tubsful from the first over the second
and third coolers, which may be soon got cold, to be ready
for a speedy working, and then the remaining part that is in
your copper may be quite let out into the first cooler. In
the meantime, mend the fire, and also attend to the hops, tor
make a clear passage through the strainer. Having pro-
ceeded thus far, as soon as the liquor is done running, return
to your business of pumping, but be sure to remember,
that, when you have got four or five pailsful, you then return
all the hops into the copper for the ale.
By this time, the small quantity of liquor traversed over
your coolers being sufficiently cooled, you must now proceed
to set your liquor to work. Take four quarts of barm, and
divide half of it into small vessels, such as clean bowls, ba-
sons, or mugs, adding thereto an equal quantity of wort,
which should be almost cold. As soon as it ferments tc the
top of the vessel, put it into two pails, and when that works
to the top, put one into a baring tub, and the other into ano^
ther. When you have half a baring tubful together, you
may put the like quantity to each of them, and then cover
them over, until it comes to a fine cauliflower head. This
may be perfectly completed in three hours, and then put
those two quantities into the working guile. You may now
add as much wort as you have got ready, for you cannot work
it too cold in open weather.
A A
3 54 MALT LIQUORS.
If you brew in cold frosty weather, keep the brewhouse
warm, but never add hot wort to keep the liquor to a blood
heat, that being a bad maxim ; for hot wort put to cold, as
well as cold to hot, is so intemperate in its nature, that it
stagnates the proper operation of the barm.
You must be careful that your barm be not from foxed
beer, that is, beer heated by ill management in its working ;
for in that case it is likely to carry with it the contagion. If
your barm be flat, and you cannot procure that which is new,
the method of recovering its working is, by putting to it a
pint of warm sweet wort of your first letting off, the heat to
be of half the degree of milk warm. Then give your mug
that contains it a shake, and it will soon gather strength and
be fit for use. Haifa pound of good hops is sufficient for a
bushel of malt for strong beer, to keep for four years, twelve
bushels to the hogshead.
We come now to the last and most simple operation in the
business of brewing, which is the tunning. The general me-
thods of doing this are, either by having it carried down on
men's shoulders, or conveying it into the cellar by the means
of leathern pipes, commonly used for that purpose.
Your casks being perfectly clean, sweet, and dry, and set
on the stand ready to receive the liquor, first skim off the top
barm, then proceed to fill your casks quite full, and imme-
diately bung and peg them close. Bore a hole with a tap-
borer near the summit of the stave, at the same distance from
the top as the lower tap-hole is from the bottom, for working
through that upper hole, which is a clean and more effectual
method than working it over the cask; for, by the above
method, being so closely confined, it soon sets itself into a
convulsive motion of working, and forces itself fine, provided
you attend to the filling of your casks five or six times a day :
for by too long an omission it begins to settle, and afterwards
being disturbed, it raises a sharp fermentation, which pro-
duces an incessant working of a spurious froth, that may
continue for some weeks, and after all give your beer a crank-
ish taste, which proper attention might have prevented.
Having thus gone through the principal matters in the
practical part of brewing, we shall now proceed to instruct
the housekeeper in the management of malt liquors, the pro-
per time for brewing, and shall make some observations on
the different qualities of water, malt and hops.
The month of March is generally considered as one of the
principal seasons for brewing malt liquor for long keeping ;
and the reason is, because the air at that time of the year is
temperate, and contributes to the good working and fermen-
tation of the liquor, which principally promotes its pre-
MALT LIQUORS. 355
servation, and good keeping. Very cold as well as very hot
weather, prevents the free fermentation or Avorking of li-
quors ; so that, if you brew in very cold weather, unless you
use some means to warm the cellar while new drink is work-
ing, it will never clear itself in the manner you would wish;
and the same misfortune will arise, if in very hot weather, the
cellar be not put into a temperate state. The consequence of
all which will be, that such drink will be muddy and sour,
perhaps beyond all recovery. Such misfortunes often hap-
pen, even in the proper season for brewing, and that owing
to the badness of a cellar, for when they are dug in springy
grounds, or are subject to damps in winter, the liquor will
chill, and grow flat and dead. Where cellars are of this na-
ture, it will be advisable to make your brewings in March,
rather than in October ; for you may keep such cellars tem-
perate in summer, but cannot warm them in winter. Thus
your beer brewed in March will have due time to settle and
adjust itself before the cold can materially injure it.
It is advisable to build your cellars for Keeping liquors after
such a manner, that no external air can get into them ; for
the variation of the air abroad, were there free admission of it
into the cellars, would cause as many altercations in the li-
quor, and would thereby keep them in so unsettled a state, as
to render them unfit for drinking. Some people, curious in
these matters, have double doors to their cellars with a view
that none of the external air may find a way into them, and
are amply repaid for their care and expense by the goodness
of their liquor. The intent of the double door is, to keep
one shut while the other is open, that the external air may
be excluded. Such cellars, if they lie dry as they ought to do,
are said to be cold in summer, and warm in winter; though,
in reality, they are constantly the same in point of tempera-
ture. They seem, indeed, cold in hot weather, but that is
only because we go into them from a hotter air abroad; and
the same mode of reasoning will hold good, with respect to
their appearing warmer in winter. Hence it is evident, that
they are only cold or warm comparatively, as the air we come
out of is colder or warmer. This should be the peculiar pro-
perty of a cellar, if we expect to have good liquor out of it.
As for the brewing part itself, we have already considered
that matter; what we shall therefore further principally touch
upon, besides speaking of cellaring, will relate to water, malt,
hops, and the proper keeping of liquors.
To speak in general, the best water is river-water, such as
is soft, and has partaken of the air and sun ; for this easily
insinuates itself into the malt, and extracts its virtues. On
the contrary, hard waters astringe and bind the pores of th
A A2
356 MALT LIQUORS.
malt, so that its virtue is n6t freely communicated to the
liquor. It is a rule with some, that all water that will mix
with soap is fit for brewing, and they will by no means allow
of any other; and it has been more than once experienced,
that where the same quantity of malt has been used to a barrel
of river-water, as to a barrel of spring-water, the river-water
brewing has excelled the other in strength about five degrees
in twelve months. It must be observed likewise, that the
malt was not only the same in quantity for one barrel as for
the other, but was the same quality, having been all mea-
sured from the same heap. The hops were also the same,
both in quality and quantity, and the time and boiling equal
to each. They were worked in the same manner, and tunned
and kept in the same cellar. Here it was evident, that the
only difference was in the water, and yet one barrel was worth
two of the other.
One thing has long puzzled the ablest brewers, and that is,
when several gentlemen in the same town have employed the
same brewer, have had the same malt, the same hops, and
the same water, and brewed it in the same month, and broach-
ed their drink at the same time, yet one has had beer extremely
fine, strong, and well tasted, while the others have had hardly
any worth drinking. There may be three reasons for this
difference : One might be the difference of weather, which
might happen at the several brewings in this month, and
make an alteration in the working of the liquors. Secondly,
that the yeast or barm might be of different sorts, or in dif-
ferent states, wherewith these liquors were worked ; and
thirdly, the cellars were not equally good. The goodness
of such drink as is brewed for keeping, in a great measure de-
pends on the goodness of the cellar in which it is kept.
The Dorchester beer, which is so much admired, is for
the most part brewed of chalky water, which is almost every
where in that county ; and as the soil is generally chalk, the
cellars, being dug in that dry soil, contribute to the good
keeping of their drink, it being of a close texture, arid of a
drying quality, so as to dissipate damps; for damp cellars, we
find by experience, are injurious to the keeping of liquors, as
well as destructive to the casks. A constant temperate air
digests and softens malt liquors, so that they taste quite smooth
on the palate; but in cellars which are unequal, by letting
in heats and colds, the liquor is subject to grow stale and
sharp. For this reason it is that liquor brewed for long voy-
ages at sea. should be perfectly ripe and fine before it be ex-
ported ; for when it has had sufficient time to digest in the
cask., and is racked from the bottom, or lee, it will bear car-
riage without injury.
MALT LIQUORS. S5f
It has been observed , that in proportion to the quantity of
liquor which is enclosed in one cask, so will it be to a longer or
shorter time in ripening. A vessel, containing two hogsheads
of beer, will require twice as much time to perfect itself as
one of a hogshead ; and it is found by experience, that no
vessel should be used for strong beer, which is intended to be
kept, less than a hogshead, as one of that quantity, if it be fit
to draw it in a year, has body enough to support it two, three
or four years, if it have strength oif malt and hops in it, as
the Dorchester beer has.
One great piece of economy is the good management of
small beer; for if that be not good, the drinkers of it will be
feeble in summer-time, incapable of strong work, and will be
very subject to distempers. Besides, when the beer is not
good, a great deal will be thrown away. The use of drink,
as well as meat, is to nourish the body; and the more labour
there is upon any one, the more substantial should be the
diet. In harvest-time, the ill effects of bad beer among the
workmen are visible ; and in great families, where that article
has not been attended to, the apothecaries bills have amounted
to twice as much as the malt would have come to, that would
have kept the servants in strength and good health. Besides,
good wholesome drink is seldom thrown away by servants,
and thus the sparing of a little malt ends in the loss of the
master. Where there is good cellaring, therefore, it is ad-
visable to brew a stock of small beer in March or October,
or in both rnonths, to keep in hogsheads, if possible. The
beer brewed in March should not be tapped till October, nor
that brewed in October, till the March following ; having this
regard to the quantity, that a family, of the same number of
working persons, will drink a third more in summer than in
winter.
If water happen to be of a hard nature, it may be softened
by exposing it to the air and sun, and putting into it some
pieces of soft chalk to infuse ; or, when the water is set on to
boil, in order to be poured on the malt, put into it a quantity
of bran, which will help a little to soften it.
One thing more is to be mentioned, respecting the preser-
vation of strong beer, and that is, when once the vessel is
broached, regard ought to be had to the time in which it will
be expended; for, if there happen to be a quick draught for
it, then it will last good to the very bottom ; but, if there
be likely to be but a slow draught, then do not draw off quit?,
half before you bottle it, otherwise your beer will grow
flat, dead, or sour. This is observed very much among the
curious.
We shall now mention two or three particulars relative
358 MALT LIQUORS.
to malt, whjch may help those who are unacquainted with
brewing. In the first place, the general distinction between
one malt and another is, only that the one is high and the other
low dried. That which we call high dried will, when brewed,
produce a liquor of a deep brown colour ; and the other
which is the low dried, will produce a liquor of a pale colour.
The first js dried in such a manner as may be said rather to
be scorched than dried, and is far less wholesome than the
pale malt. It has also been experienced that brown malt, al-
though it be well brewed, will sooner turn sharp than the pale
malt, if that be fairly brewed.
A gentleman of good experience in the brewery says, that
the brown malt makes the best drink when it is brewed with a
coarse river water, such as that of the Thames about London :
and that likewise being brewed with such water, it makes
very good ale ; but that it will not keep above six months
without turning stale, and a little sharp, even though he allows
fourteen bushels to the hogshead. He adds, that he has
tried the high-dried malt to brew beer with for keeping, and
hopped it accordingly and yet he could never bren- it so as to
drink soft and mellow, like that brewed with pale malt. There
is an acid quality in the high-dried malt, which occasions that
distemper commonly called the heart-burn in those that drink
of the ale or beer made of it.
What we have here said of malt is meant that made of
barley ; for wheat-malt, pea-malt, or those mixed with barley-
malt, though they produce a high-coloured liquor, will keep
many years, and drink soft and smooth, yet they have the
mum flavour.
Some people, who brew with high-dried barley-malt, put a
bag, containing about three pints of wheat, into every hogs-
head of liquor, and that has fined it, and made it drink mel-
low. Others have put about three pints of wheat-malt into a
hogshead, which has produced the same effect. But all malt-
liquors, however well they may be brewed, may be spoiled
by bad cellaring, and be now and then subject to ferment in
the cask, and consequently turn thick and sour. The best
way to help this, and bring the liquor to itself, is to open the
bung of the cask for two or three days, and, if that does not
stop the fermentation, then put in two or three pounds of
oyster-shells, washed, burned, and then beaten to fine powder.
Stir it a little, and it will presently settle .the liquor, make it
fine, and take off the sharp taste. As soon as that is done,
draw it off into another vessel, and put a small bag of wheat
or wheat-malt into it, as before directed, or in proportion to
the size of the vessel. Sometimes such fermentations will
Happen in liquor by change of weather, if it be in a bad
MALT LIQUORS. 359
cellar, and will, in a few months, fall fine of itself, and grow
mellow.
High-dried malt should not be used in brewing, till it has
been ground ten days, or a fortnight, as it then yields much
stronger drink than" the same quantity of malt just ground;
but if you design to keep malt ground some time before you
use it, you must take care to keep it very dry, and the air at
that time must also be dry. As for pale malt, which has not
partaken so much of the fire it must not remain ground above
a week before you use it. The best mode of using malt, is to
take equal portions of brown, amber, and pale.
As for hops, the newest are much the best, though they
will remain very good two years: but after that they begin to
decay and loose their flavour, unless great quantities are kept
together, in which case they will keep much longer good than
in small quantities. These, for their better preservation,
should be kept in a very dry place ; though the dealers in.
them rather choose such places as are moderately between moist
and dry, that they may not lose any of their weight. Notice
must here be taken of a method which has been used to stale
and decayed hops, to make them recover their bitterness ;
and this is, to unbag them, and sprinkle them with aloes and
water, which, when it has proved a bad hop year, has spoiled
great quantities of malt liquor about London : for even where
the water, the malt, the brewer, and the cellars, are each
good, a bad hop will spoil all. Hence it is evident, that every
one of these particulars should be well chosen before the
brewing is set about, or else you must expect but a bad ac-
count of your labour. So likewise the yeast or barm which
you work your liquor with, must be well considered, or a good
brewing may be spoiled by that alone.
Remember always to be provided with every material be-
fore you begin your brewing, as the wort will not wait for
any thing.
It is a practice in some places remote from town, to dip
whisks into yeast, then beat it well, and so hang up the whisks
with the yeast in them to dry : and if there be no brewing till
two months afterwards, the beating and stirring one of these
neu- whisks in new wort will raise a working or a fermentation
in it. It is a rule, that all liquor should be worked well in the
tun, or keel, before it be put into the vessel, otherwise it
will not easily grow fine. Some follow the rule of beating-
down the yeast pretty often while it is in the tun, and keep it
there working for two or three d;iys, observing to put it into
the vessel just when the yeast begins to fall. This liquor is
commonly very fine, whereas that which is put into the vessel
quickly after it is brewed, will not be fine in many months.
360 MALT LIQUORS.
With respect to the season for brewing liquor to keep, it is
to be observed, that if the cellars be subject to the heat of the
sun, or warm summer air, it will be best to brew in October,
that the liquor may have time to digest before the warm season
comes on ; and if cellars be inclinable to damps, and to re-
ceive water, the best time will be to brew in March. Some
experienced brewers always choose to brew with the pale malt
in March, and the brown in October ; for they suppose, that
the pale malt being made with a less degree of fire than the
other, wants the summer sun to ripen it ; and so, on the con-
trary, the brown having had a larger share of the fire to dry
it, is more capable of defending itself against the cold of the
winter season. But these are merely matters of opinion.
However careful you may have been in attending to all the
preceding particulars, yet, if the casks be not in good order,
still the brewing may be spoiled. New casks are apt to give
liquor a bad taste, if they be not well scalded and seasoned
several days successively before they are used. As to old
casks, if they stand any time out of use, they are apt to grow
musty.
There now remains little more to be said concerning the
management of malt liquor, but that of bottling it. The
bottles must first be well cleaned and dried ; for wet bottles
will make the liquor turn mouldy, or mothery, as they call it ;
and by wet bottles a great deal of good beer has been spoiled.
Though the bottles be clean and diy, yet if the corks be not
new and sound, the liquor will be still liable to be damaged ;
for, if the air can get into the bottles, the liquor will grow
flat, and will never rise. Many who flattered themselves that
they knew how to be saving, by using old corks on this occa-
sion, have spoiled as much liquor as stood them in four or
five pounds, only for want of laying out three or four shillings.
If bottles are corked as they should be, it will be difficult to
pull out the cork without a screw: and to be sure to draw the
cork without breaking, the screw ought to go through the cork,
and then the air must necessarily find a passage where the
screw has passed, and therefore the cork must be good for
nothing. If a cork has once been in a bottle, though it has
not been drawn with a screw, yet that cork will turn musty
as soon as it be exposed to the air, and will communicate its
ill flavour to the bottle in which it is next put, and spoil the
liquor that way In the choice of corks, take those that are
soft and clear from specks.
You may also observe, in the bottling of liquor, that the
top and middle of the hogshead are -the strongest, and will
ooner rise in the bottles than the bottom. When once you
MALT LIQUORS. 361
begin to bottle a vessel of any liquor, be sure not to leave it
till all is completed, otherwise it will have different tastes.
If you find that a vessel of liquor begins to grow flat whilst
it is in common draught, bottle it, and into every bottle put
a piece of loaf sugar about the size of a walnut, which will
make it rise and come to itself; and to forward its ripening,
you may set some bottles in hay in a warm place ; but straw
will not assist its ripening.
Where there are not good cellars, holes have been sunk in
the ground, and large oil jars put into them, and the earth
filled close about the sides. One of these jars may hold about
a dozen quart bottles ; and will keep the liquor very well ;
but the tops of the jars must be kept closely covered up. In
winter-time, when the weather is frosty, shut up all the lights
or windows of your cellars, and cover them close with horse-
dung, or horse-litter ; but it is much better to have no lights
or windows at all to any cellar, for the reasons before given.
Should you have an opportunity of brewing a good stock of
small beer in March and October, some of it may be bottled
at six months' end, putting into every bottle a lump of loaf
sugar. This will be a very refreshing drink in the summer.
Or, if you happen to brew in summer, and are desirous of
brisk small beer, as soon as it is done working, bottle it as
above directed.
APPENDIX.
SECTION I.
CONSIDERATIONS ON CULINARY POISONS.
1 HOUGH we have already, in different parts of this work,
occasionally reminded the housekeeper and cook of the fatal
consequences attending coppers and saucepans not being pro-
perly tinned, yet we shall here enter on a particular inquiry
into the nature and property of culinary poisons, for the infor-
mation and satisfaction of those who may wish to have a more
perfect knowledge of such important matters.
By the use of copper vessels for dressing our food, we are
daily exposed to the danger of poison ; and even the very air
of a kitchen, abounding with oleaginous and saline particles,
disposes those vessels to solution before they are used. Cop-
per, when handled, yields an offensive smell ; and, if touched
with the tongue, has a sharp pungent taste, and even excites
a nausea. Verdigrise is nothing but a solution of this metal
by vegetable acids, and it is well known, that a very small
quantity of this solution will produce cholics, vomitings, into-
lerable thirst, universal convulsions, and other dangerous
symptoms. If these effects, and the prodigious divisibility of
this metal, be considered, there can be no doubt of its being
a violent and subtle poison. Water, by standing some time
in a copper vessel, becomes impregnated with verdigrise, as
may be demonstrated by throwing into it a small quantity of
any volatile alkali, which will immediately tinge it with a
paler or deeper blue, in proportion to the rust contained in
the water. Vinegar, apple-sauce, greens, oil, grease, butter,
and almost every other kind of food, will extract the verdi-
grise in a great degree. Some people imagine, that the ill
effects of copper are prevented by its being tinned, which
indeed is the only prevemative in that case ; but the tin,
which adheres to the copper, is so extremely thin, that it is
soon penetrated by the verdigrise, which insinuates itself
through the pores of that metal, and appears green upon the
surface.
-APPENDIX. 363
Verdigrise, is one of the most violent poisons in nature ;
and yet, rather than quit an old custom, the greater part of
mankind are content to swallow some of this poison every
day. Our food receives its quantity of poison in the kitchen,
by the use of copper pans and dishes ; the brewer mingles
poison in your beer, by boiling it in copper; salt is distributed
to the people from copper scales covered with verdigrise ;
our pickles are rendered green by infusion of copper ; the
pastry-cook bakes our tarts in copper patty-pans ; but con-
fections and syrups have greater powers of destruction, as
they are set over a fire in copper vessels which have not been
tinned, and the verdigrise is plentifully extracted by the aci-
dity of the composition. After all, though we do not swallow
death in a_ single dose, yet it is certain that a quantity of poi-
son, however small, which is repeated with every meal, must
produce more fatal effects than is generally believed.
Bell-metal kettles are frequently used in boiling cucumbers
for pickling, in order to make them green ; but this is a prac-
tice as absurd as it is dangerous. If the cucumbers acquire
any additional greenness by the use of these kettles, they can
only derive it from the copper, of which they are made ;
and this very reason ought to be sufficient to overturn so
dangerous a practice.
According to some writers, bell-metal is a composition of
tin and copper, or pewter and copper, in the proportion of
twenty pounds of pewter, or twenty -three pounds of tin, to
one hundred weight of copper. According to others, this
metal is made in the proportion of one thousand pounds of
copper to two or three hundred pounds of tin, and one hun-
dred and fifty pounds of brass. Spoons, and other kitchen
utensils are fre quently made of a mixed metal, called alche-
my, or, as it is vulgarly pronounced, ochimy. The rust of
this metal, as well as that of the former, is highly pernicious.
The author of a tract entitled, Serious Reflections attend-
ing the Use of Copper Vessels, published in London in 1755,
asserts, that the great frequency of palsies, apoplexies, mad-
ness, and all the frightful train of nervous disorders which
suddenly attack us, without our being able to account for the
cause, or which gradually weaken our vital faculties, are the
pernicious effects of this poisonous matter, taken into the
body insensibly with our victuals, and thereby intermixed with
our blood and juices.
However this may be, certain it is, that there have been in-
numerable instances of the pernicious consequences of eating
food dressed in copper vessels, not sufficiently cleaned from
this rust. On this account the senate of Sweden, about the
year H53, prohibited copper ressels, and ordered that noves-
364- APPENDIX.
sels, except such as were made of iron, should be used in their
fleets and armies. But if copper vessels must be still conti-
nued, every cook and good housewife should be particularly
careful in keeping them clean and well tinned, and should
suffer nothing to remain in them longer than is absolutely
necessary for the purposes of cookery.
Lead is a metal easily corroded, especially by the warm
steams of acids, such as vinegar, cider, lemon-juice, Rhenish
wine, &c. and this solution, or salt of lead, is a slow and in-
sidious, though certain poison. The glazing of all our com-
mon brown pottery ware is either lead or lead ore ; if black, it
is a lead ore, with a small proportion of manganese, which is a
species of iron ore ; if yellow, the glazing is lead ore, and ap-
pears yellowish by having some pipe or white clay under it.
The colour of the common pottery ware is red, as the vessels
are made of the same clay as common bricks. These vessels
are so porous, that they are penetrated by all salts acid or al-
kaline, and are unfit for retaining any saline substances. They
are improper, though too often used, for preserving sour fruits
or pickles. The glazing of such vessels is corroded by the
vinegar : for, upon evaporating the liquor, a quantity of the
salt of lead will be found at the bottom. A sure way of judg-
ing whether the vinegar or other acid, have dissolved part of
the glazing, is by their becoming vapid, or losing their sharp-
ness, and acquiring a sweetish taste by standing in them for
some time, in which case the contents must be thrown away
as pernicious.
The substance of the pottery ware, commonly called Delft,
the best being made at Delft in Holland, is a whitish clay
when baked, and soft, as not having endured a great heat in
baking, The glazing is a composition of calcined lead, cal-
cined tin, sand, some coarse alkaline salt, and sandiver; which
fceing run into a white glass, the white colour being owing to
the tin, is afterwards ground in a mill, then mixed with water,
and the vessels, after oeing baked in the furnace, are dipped
into it, and put again into the furnace ; by which means, with
a small degree of heat, the white glass runs upon the vessels.
This glazing is exceedingly soft, and easily cracks. What
effects acids will have upon it, the writer of these consi-
derations cannot say ; but they seem to be improper for in-
spissating the juice of lemons, oranges, or any other acid
fruits.
The most proper vessels for these purposes are porcelain or
China ware, the substances of them being of so close a tex-
ture, that no saline or other liquor can penetrate them. The
glazing, which is likewise made of the substance of the china,
is so firm and close, that no salt or saline substance can have the
APPENDIX. 365
least effect upon it. It must, however, be observed, that this
remark is applicable only to the porcelain made in China ;
for some species of the European manufactory are certainly
glazed with a fine glass of lead, &c.
The stone ware, commonly called Staffordshire ware, is the
next to china. The substance of these vessels is a composi-
tion of black flint, and a strong clay, that bakes white. Their
outsides are glazed, by throwing into the furnace, when well
heated, common or sea salt decrepitated, the steam or acid
of which flying up among the vessels, vitrifies the outsides of
them, and gives them the glazing. This stone ware does not
appear to be injured or affected by any kind of salts, either
acid or alkaline, or by any liquors, hot or cold. These are
therefore extremely proper for all common uses ; but they
require a careful management, as they are more apt to crack
with any sudden heat, than china.
Having thus considered the nature of copper and earthen
utensils for the use of the kitchen, we shall proceed to make
tome few remarks on the poisonous qualities of mushrooms,
hemlock, and laurel.
Mushrooms have been long used in sauces, in ketchup, and
other forms of cookery ; they were highly esteemed by the
Romans, as they are at present by the French, Italians, and
other nations. Pliny exclaims against the luxury of his
countrymen in this article, wonders what extraordinary plea-
sure there can be in eating such dangerous food. The an-
cient writers on the Materia Medica seem to agree, that mush-
rooms are in general unwholesome ; and the moderns, Le-
mery, Allen, Geoffroy, Boerhaave, Linnseus, and others, con-
cur in the same opinion. There are numerous instances on
record of their fatal effects, and almost all authors agree, that
they are fraught with poison.
The common esculent kinds, if eaten too freely, frequently
bring on heart-burns, sicknesses, vomitings, diarrhoeas, dy-
senteries, and other dangerous symptoms. It is therefore to
be wished, that they were banished from the table; but, if the
palate must be indulged in these treacherous gratifications,
or, as Seneca calls them, this voluptuous poison, it is neces-
sary that those, who are employed in collecting them, should
be extremely cautious, lest they should collect such as are ab-
solutely pernicious ; which, considering to whose care this is
generally committed, may, and undoubtedly frequently has
happened. The eatable mushrooms at first appear of a roun-
dish form, like a button ; the upper part and the stalk are very
thin ; the under part is of a livid flesh colour; but the fleshy
part, when broken, is very white. When these are suffered
366 APPENDIX.
to remain undisturbed, they will grow to a large size, and ex
pand themselves almost to a flatness, and the red part under-
neath will change to a dark colour.
Small Hemlock, though it seems not to be of so virulent a
nature as the larger hemlock, yet Boerhaave places it among
the vegetable poisons, in his Institutes ; and in his History of
Plants, he produces an instance of its pernicious effects. It
is therefore necessary to guard against it, in collecting herbs
for sallads and other purposes. Attend therefore to the fol-
lowing description :
The first leaves are divided into numerous small parts,
which are of a pale green, oval, pointed, and deeply indent-
ed. The stalk is slender, upright, round, striated, and about
a yard high. The flowers are white, growing at the tops of
the branches in little umbels. It is an annual plant, common
in orchards and kitchen gardens, and flowers in June and
July. This plant has been often mistaken for parsley, and
from thence it has received the name of fool's parsley.
The water distilled from the leaves of the common laurel,
has been frequently mixed with brandy, and other spirituous
liquors, in order to give them the flavour of ratafia; and the
leaves are often used in cookery, to communicate the same
kind of taste to creams, custards, puddings, and some sorts of
sweetmeats. But in the year 1728, an account of two women
dying suddenly in Dublin, after drinking some of the com-
mon distilled laurel water, gave rise to several experiments,
made upon dogs, with the distilled water, and with the infu-
sion of the leaves of the common laurel, communicated by
Dr. Madden, Physician at Dublin, to the Royal Society in
London ; and afterwards repeated, in the year 1T3 1, and con-
firmed by Dr. Mortimer, by which it appeared, that both the
water and the infusion brought on convulsions, palsy, and
death.
The laurel of the ancients, or the bay, is, on the contrary,
of a salutary nature, and of use in several disorders ; but the
common laurel is a plant of a very destructive kind, and, taken
in a large quantity, is a most formidable poison. However,
if it be administered with proper caution, and in small pro-
portion, the leaves of the plant are generally thought to be
innocent ; and therefore, for kitchen purposes, as the flavour-
ing of custards, and such like, the use, in guarded and com-
mon moderation, may be continued in perfect safety. The
bitter parts of the plants, in which all the noxious properties
are supposed to reside, are determined to be the same in qua-
lity, and not sensibly different in degree, from the bitter al-
mond, or from the kernels of any of the stoned fruits Lin-
APPENDIX. 367
Maeus says, that in Holland, an infusion of this kind of laurel is
used in the practice of the healing art. Miller also says, that
laurel leaves are perfectly innocent. A nice attention, how-
ver, is certainly necessary in the use of them.
SECTION II.
CONSIDERATIONS ON THE ADULTERATION
OF BREAD AND FLOUR.
IN the adulteration of flour, mealmen and bakers have been
known to use bean-meal, chalk, whiting, slacked lime, alum,
and even ashes of bones. The first, bean-flour, is perfectly
innocent, and affords a nourishment equal to that of wheat ;
but there is a roughness in bean-flour, and its colour is dusky.
To remove these defects, chalk is added to whiten it ; alum to
give the whole compound that consistence which is necessary
to make it knead well with the dough ; and jalap to take off
the astringency. Some people may suppose, that these horrid
iniquities are only imaginary, or at least exaggerated, and that
such mixtures must be discoverable even by the most ordi-
nary taste ; but, as some adulterations of this nature, have
certainly been practised, the following experiments may serve
to gratify curiosity, or discover frauds, where any such have
been committed.
To detect the adulteration of flour with whiting or chalk,
mix it with some juice of lemon or good vinegar. If the flour
be pure, they will remain together at rest; but if there be a
mixture of whiting or chalk, a fermentation, like the working
of yeast, will ensue. The adulterated meal is whiter and
heavier than the good; the quantity that an ordinary tea-dish
will contain, has been found to weigh more than the same
quantity of genuine flour, by four drachms and nineteen
grains Troy.
The regular method of detecting these frauds in bread is
thus: cut the crumb of a loaf into very thin slices; break
them, but not into very small pieces, and put them into a glass
cucurbit, with a large quantity of water. Set this, without
shaking, in a sand furnace, and let it stand, with a moderate
warmth, twenty-four hours. The crumb of the bread will, in
this time, soften in all its parts, and the ingredients will sepa-
rate from it. The alum will dissolve in the water, and may be
368 APPENDIX.
extracted from it in the usual way. The jalap, if any has been
used, will swim upon the top in a coarse film ; and the other
ingredients, being heavy, will sink to the bottom. This is the
best and most regular method of finding the deceit ; but as
cucurbites and sand furnaces are not at hand in private fami-
lies, the following is a more familiar method : Slice the crumb
of a loaf as before directed, and put it with a great deal of
water into a large earthen pipkin. Set this over a gentle fire,
and keep it a long time moderately hot. Then pour off the
pap, and the bone ashes, or other ingredients, will be found
at the bottom.
Having spoken thus much of the adulteration of wbeat and
bread, and as the business of baking often falls under the in-
spection of the housekeeper, particularly in country resi-
dences, we shall here give instructions for that purpose,
To make White Bread in the London Manner.
PUT a bushel of the finest well-dressed flour in at one end
of the kneading trough ; then take a gallon of water, which
bakers call liquor, and some yeast : stir it into the liquor till
it looks of a good brown colour, and begins to curdle. Strain
and mix it with the flour till it is about the thickness of a
seed cake, then cover it with the lid of the trough, and let it
stand three hours. As soon as it begins to fall, take a gallon
more of liquor, weigh three quarters of a pound of salt, and
with the hand mix it well with water. Strain it, and with this
liquor make the dough of a moderate thickness, fit to make
up into loaves. Then cover it again with the lid, and let it
stand three hours more. In the mean time put the wood into
the oven, which will require two hours heating. Then clear
the oven, and begin to make the bread; put it in, close up
the oven, and three hours will bake it. When once the bread
is put in, the oven must not be opened till the bread is baked;
and take care in summer that the water is milk warm, and in
winter as hot as the finger will bear. All flour does not re-
quire the same quantity of water ; but that experience will
teach in two or three times making.
To make Leaven Bread.
BREAD made without barm, must be by the assistance of
leaven. Take a lump of dough, about two pounds of the
last making, which has been raised by barm. Keep it in a
wooden vessel, cover it well with flour, and this will be the
leaven. The night before baking, put the leaven to a peck
of flour, and work them well together with warm water. Let
it lie in a dry wooden vessel, well covered with a linen cloth
APPENDIX. 369
and blanket, and keep it in a warm place. This dough, kept
warm, will rise again next morning, and will be sufficient to
mix with two or three bushels of flour, being mixed up with
warm water and a little salt. When it is well " orked up, and
thoroughly mixed with the flour, let it be well covered with
the linen and blanket, until it begins to rise. Then knead it
well, and work it up into bricks or loaves, making the loaves
broa.i, and not so thick and high as is frequently done, by
which means the bread will be better baked. Always keep
two or more pounds of the dough of the last baking, well co-
vered with flour, to make leaven to serve from one baking day
to another; and t! e more leaven put to the flour, the lighter
the bread will be. The fresher the leaven, the less sour will
be the bread.
To make French Bread.
PUT a pint of milk into three quarts of water; in winter,
let it be scalding hot, but only little more than milk-warm in
summer. Having put in salt sufficient to the taste, take a
pint and a half of good ale yeast ; but take care that it is not
bitter. Lay it in a gallon of water the night before ; pour it
off the water, stir the yeast into the milk and water, and then
with the hand break in a little more than a quarter of a pound
of butter. Work it well till it is dissolved, then beat up two
eggs in a bason, and stir them in. Take about a peck and a
half of flour, and mix it with the liquor. In winter, the
dough must be made pretty stiff, but more slack in summer ;
to use a little more or less flour, according to the stiffness of
the dough ; but mind to mix it well, and the less it is worked,
the better. Stir the liquor into the flour as for pie crust; and
after the dough is made, cover it with a cloth, and let it lie to
rise while the oven is heating. When they have lain in a
quick oven about a quarter of an hour, turn them on the other
side, and let them lie about a quarter longer. Then take
them out, and chip all the French bread with a knife, which
will be better than rasping it, making it look spongy, and of
a fine yellow; whereas the rasping takes off that fine colour,
and makes it look too smooth.
To make Oat-Cakes and Muffins.
TAKE a pint and a half of good ale yeast from pale malt,
because that is whitest. Let the yeast lie in water all night,
the next day pour off the water clear, make two gallons of
water just milk-warm, but not so hot as to scald the yeast,
and two ounces of salt. Mix the water, yeast, and salt well
together for a quarter of an hour. Then strain it, and with a
bushel of Hertfordshire white flour mix up the dough as light
B E
370 APPENDIX.
as possible, and let it lie in the trough an hour to rise. Then
roll it with the hand, and pull it into little pieces about as big
as a large walnut. Roll them with the hand in the shape of a
ball, lay them on a table, and as fast as they are done, lay a
piece of flannel over them, and be sure to keep the dough co-
vered with flannel. When all the dough is rolled out, begin
to bake the first made, and by that time they will be spread
out in a right form. Lay them on the iron, and as soon as
one side is sufficiently coloured, turn them on the other ; but
take great care that they do not burn, or be too much disco-
loured. If the iron is too hot, as will sometimes be the case,
put a brick-bat or two in the middle of the fire to slacken
the heat. Here it is undoubtedly necessary to mention in
what manner the thing baked on must be made. Build a
place as if going to set a copper; but instead of a copper,
place a piece of iron all over the top, in form just the same
as the bottom of an iron pot, and make the fire underneath
with coal, as in a copper. Observe, that muffins are made
the same way, with this difference only, that, when pulled
to pieces, roll them in a good deal of flour, and with a roll-
ing pin roll them thin. Then cover them with a piece of
flannel, and they will rise to a proper thickness ; but, if too
big or too little, roll the dough accordingly. Muffins must not
be the least discoloured.
To "preserve Yeast.
TAKE a quantity of it, stir and work it well with a whisk
until it becomes liquid and thin. Then get a large wooden
platter, cooler, or tub, clean and dry, and with a soft brusli
lay a thin layer of yeast on the tub, and turn the mouth down-
wards, that no dust may fall upon it, but so that the air may
get under to dry it. When that coat is very dry, then lay on
another, and so on till two or three inches thick, always taking
care that the yeast is very dry in the tub before laying any
more on, and this will keep good for several months. To use
this yeast, cut a piece off, and lay it into warm water ; stir it
together, and it will be fit for use. If for brewing, take a large
handful of birch tied together, dip it into the yeast, and hang
it up to dry. In this manner do any number; but take care
no dust comes to it. When the beer is fit to set to work, throw
in one of these, and it will make it work as well as yeast.
To make Yeast.
Mix two quarts of soft water with wheat flour, to the con-
sistence of thick gruel, or soft hasty pudding ; boiled gently
for half an hour, and when almost cold, stir it into half a pound
of sugar, and four spoonsful of good yeast. Put it into a large
APPENDIX. 311
jug, or earthen vessel with a narrow top, and place it before
the fire, so that it may by a moderate heat ferment. The fer-
mentation will throw up a thin liquor, which pour off and throw-
away ; the remainder may be used instead of common yeast,
and four spoonsful will make a fresh quantity as before : keep
it in a bottle in a cool place.
SECTION III.
PROPER NOURISHMENT FOR THE SICK.
Mutton Broth.
\ AKE the fat off a pound of loin of mutton, and put the learr
into a quart of water; skim it well as it boils, and put in a
piece of the upper crust of bread, with a large blade of mace.
Having covered it up close, let it boil slowly for half an hour,
and then pour the broth clear off without stirring it : skim off
the fat, season it with a little salt, and the meat will be in a pro-
per state to be eaten. Some boil turnips with the meat : but
this should not be done, as they ought to be boiled by them-
selves.
Beef or mutton broth for very weak people, who cannot
digest much nourishment: Take a pound of beef or mutton,
or both together, and put to each pound a quart of water.
Skin the meat and take off the fat, cut it into little pieces, and
let it boil till it comes to a quarter of a pint. Then season it
with a very little salt, skim off all the fat, and give the sick per-
son a spoonful of it at a time. If the sick person be very weak,
even half a spoonful will be enough at once; while to others
who are stronger, a tea-cupful may be given at a time ; in-
deed the whole is, properly to observe what quantity the
stomach of the sick person will bear.
Beef Broth.
TAKE off the fat and skin of a pound of lean beef, and cut
it into pieces. Then put it into a gallon of water, with the
under crust of a penny loaf, and a very little salt. Let it boil
till it is reduced to two quarts, then strain it off, and it will
be very nourishing.
Beef Tea. >
TAKE a piece of lean beef, cut it cross and cross, and then
pour on it scalding water. Cover it up close, and let it stand
till it is cold. Then pour it off as wanted, season it mode-
fately, and give it to the sick person, having first warmed it.
Or, cut a pound of lean beef very fine, pour a pint of boil-
BB 2
372 APPENDIX.
ing water over it, and put it on the fire to raise the scum.
Skim it clean, strain it off, and let it settle. Pour it clean
from the settling, and then it will be fit for use.
Essence of eef, or Mutton.
TAKE two pounds of either, cut into very small pieces ; put
aside all fat and skin, and lay the meat in a jug without any
water; put the jug into a deep saucepan, and pour round it a
sufficient quantity of water to come up to the neck: let the
jug boil in the water two hours; take it out, pour the es-
sence into a basin ; when cold, skim off the fat, and warm the
remainder of the essence by plunging the basin into hot
water : a single tea-spoonful at a time sufficient.
^ Veal Broth.
TAKE two pounds of scrag of veal, and put to it two quarts
of water, a large piece of upper crust of bread, two blades of
mace, and a little parsley tied with a thread. Cover it close,
let it boil two hours very slowly, observing to skim it occa-
sionally, when both meat arid broth will be ready.
To mince Veal or Chicken.
MINCE some veal or. a chicken very fine; but first take off
the skin ; just boil as much water as will moisten it, and no
more, with a very little salt, and some nutmeg grated. Then
throw a little flour over it, and when the water boils, put in
the meat. Keep shaking it about for a minute over the fire;
then have ready two or three thin sippets, toasted nice and
brown, laid in the plate, and pour the mince-meat over it.
Pork Broth.
TAKE off the skin and fat from two pounds of young pork,
boil it in a gallon of water, with a turnip and a very little salt,
till it is reduced to two quarts: strain it off, and let it stand till
cold. Take off the fat, leave the settling at the bottom of the
pan, and drink half a pint warmed in the morning fasting, an
hour before breakfast, and at noon, provided the stomach will
bear it.
To pull a Chicken.
TAKE any quantity of cold chicken, take off the skin, and
pull the meat into little bits as thick as a quill ; then take the
bones, boil them with a little salt till they are good, and strain.
Then take a spoonful of the liquor, a spoonful of milk, a little
bit of butter as big as a large nutmeg, rolled in flour, a little
chopped parsley, as much as will lie upon a sixpence, and a
little salt, if wanted. This will be enough for half a small
chicken. Put all together into the saucepan, then keep shak-
ing it till it is thick, and pour it into a hot plate.
APPENDIX. 313
Chicken Broth.
, FLAY an old cock or a large fowl, pick off all the fat, and
break the bones to pieces with a rolling pin; put it into two
quarts of water, with a large crust of bread and a blade of
mace : let it boil softly till it is good, which will probably re-
quire five or six hours. Pour it off, then put to it a quart
more of boiling water, and cover it close; let it boil softly till
good, then strain it off, and season it with a very little salt.
Or, having boiled a chicken save the liquor, and when the meat
is eaten, break the bones, and put them to the liquor in which
the chicken was boiled, with a blade of mace, and a crust of
bread. Let it boil till it is good, and then strain it off.
Or, let the saucepan be very clean and nice, and when the
water boils, put in the chicken, which must be very nicely
picke-i and cleaned, and laid in cold water a quarter of an,
hour before boiling it. Then take it out of the boiling water
and lay it in a dish. Save all the liquor that runs from it in the
dish, cut up the chicken all in joints in the same dish, bruise
the liver very fine, add a little boiled parsley finely chopped,
a very little salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix all well
together with two spoonsful or the liquor of the fowl, and
pour it into the dish with the rest of the liquor. If there
be not liquor enough, take two or three spoonsful of the
liquor it was boiled in, and clap another dish over it. Then
set it over a chafing-dish of hot coals for five or six minutes,
and carry it to table hot with the cover on. If it is for a weak
person, take off the skin of the chicken before setting it on the
chafing-dish ; and if roasted, make nothing but bread sauce,
which is the lightest sauce for a sick person. In this manner
dress a rabbit, excepting that only a piece of the liver must
be bruised.
Chicken Water.
FLAY a large fowl or a cock, bruise the bones with a ham-
mer, and put it into a gallon of water with a crust of bread.
Let it boil half away, and then strain it off for use.
Bread Soup.
SET a quart of water on the fire in a clean saucepan, and
as much dry crust of bread cut to pieces as the top of a penny
loaf, the drier the better, with a bit of butter as big as a wal-
nut. Let it boil, then beat it with a spoon, and keep boiling
it, till the bread and water are well mixed. Then season it
with a very little salt, and it will be very agreeable to a weak
stomach.
Buttered Water.
BEAT up the yolk of an egg in a pint of water, put in a
piece of butter as big as a small walnut, with two or three
374 APPENDIX.
knobs of sugar, and keep stirring it all the time it is on the
fire. When it begins to boil, bruise it between the saucepan
and a mug, till it is smooth, and has a great froth, when it
will be fit to drink. It is ordered in a cold, and where eggs
will agree with the stomach. This is called egg-soup by the
Germans, who are very fond of it for supper.
Seed Water.
BRUISE half a spoonful of carraway seeds, and a spoonful
of coriander seeds. Boil them in a pint of water, then strain
them, and beat into them the yolk of an egg. Mix it up
with some white wine, and sweeten it to the taste with double-
refined sugar.
Barley Water.
BOIL a quarter of a pound of pearl barley in two quarts of
water, skim it very clean, and when it has boiled half away,
strain it. Make it moderately sweet, and put in two spoonsful
of white wine. It must be made a little warm before drink,
ing it.
To boil Pigeons.
HAVING cleaned, washed, drawn, and skinned the pigeons,
boil them in milk and water for ten minutes, and pour over
them the following sauce : Parboil the livers, and bruise them
fine, with an equal weight of parsley boiled and chopped tine.
Melt some butter, first mix a little of it with the liver and pars-
ley, them mix all together, and pour it over the pigeons.
To boil Partridges.
PUT the partridge into boiling water, and let it boil ten
minutes ; then take it up into a plate, and cut it into two,
laying the inside next the plate. Take the crumb of a half-
penny roll, or thereabout, and with a blade of mace, boil
it two or three minutes. Pour away most of the water, then
beat it up with a small piece of good butter and a little salt,
and pour it over the partridge. Put a cover over it, and set
it over a chafing-dish of coals four or five minutes, and send
it up hot, covered close. In this manner dress any sort of wild
fowl, only boiling it more or less according to its size. Before
pouring bread sauce over ducks, take off the skins ; and if
roasted, lay bread sauce under them, which is much lighter
for weak stomachs than gravy.
To boil Plaice or Flounders.
THROW some salt into water, and when it boils, put in the
fish ; as soon as they are enough, take them out, and let them
remain a little time on the slice to drain : take two spoonsful
APPENDIX. 375
of the liquor, with a little salt, and a little grated nutmeg ;
then beat up the yolk of an egg well with the liquor, and stir
in the egg. Beat it well together. With a knife carefully
slice away all the little bones round the fish, and pour the
sauce over it. Then set it for a minute over a chafing-dish of
coals, and send it up hot.
Brown Caudle.
PUT four spoonsful of oatmeal, a blade or two of mace, and
a piece of lemon peel, into two quarts of water ; boil it about
a quarter of an hour, but take care that it does not boil over :
then strain it, and add a quart of good ale that is not bitter.
Sweeten it to the palate, arid add half a pint of white wine,
or a glass of brandy. When you do not put in white wine or
brandy, the caudle must be half of it ale.
White Caudle.
MAKE gruel as above, and strain it through a sieve, but put
no ale to it ; when used, sweeten it to the palate, grate in a
little nutmeg, and put in what white wine you think proper.
If it be not for a sick person, squeeze in the juice of a lemon.
Water Gruel.
PUT a large spoonful of oatmeal into a pint of water, stir it
well together, and let it boil three or four times, stirring it
often. Then strain it through a sieve, salt it to the palate,
and put in a large piece of fresh butter. Brew it with a spoon
till the butter is all melted, and it will be then fine and smooth.
Panada.
PUT a blade of mace, a large piece of the crumb of bread,
and a quart of water, into a clean saucepan. Let it boil two
minutes, then take out the bread, and bruise it very fine in a
bason. Mix as much water as it will require, pour away the
rest, and sweeten it to the palate. Put in a piece of butter as
big as a walnut, but do not put in any wine, as that will spoil
it. Grate in a little nutmeg.
Isinglass Jelly.
PUT an ounce of isinglass, and half an ounce of cloves, into
a quart of water. Boil it to a pint, strain it upon a pound of
loaf sugar, and when cold, sweeten your tea with it. You
may add a little wine. Jellies made from calf's feet, and
other things, have been already given.
Salop.
TAKE a large tea-spoonful of the powder of salop, and
put it into a pint of boiling water. Stir it till it is a fine jelly,
and then put in wine and sugar to the palate.
376 APPENDIX-
Artificial Asses Milk.
TAKE two large spoonsful of hartshorn shavings, two ounces
of pearl barley, an ounce of eringo root, the same quantity
of China root, the same of preserved ginger, and eighteen
snails bruised with the shells ; boil them in three quarts of
water tiil it comes to three pints : then boil a pint of new milk,
mix it with the rest, and put in two ounces of balsam of Tolu.
Take half a pint in the morning, and half a pint at night.
Or, take a quart of milk, set it in a pan over night, and the
next morning take off all the cream ; then boil it, and set it in
the pan again till night: then boil it, set it in the pan again,
and the next morning skim it. Make it blood warm, and
drink it as asses milk.
Or, take a quart of milk, and a quart of water, with the top-
crust of a penny loaf, and a blade of mace. Boil it a quarter
of an hour ver/'softly, then pour it off, and drink it warm.
SECTION IV.
NECESSARY ARTICLES* FOR SEAFARING
PERSONS.
As pickled mushrooms are very handy for captains of ships
to take with them to sea, we shall here give directions for
that particular purpose. Wash the mushrooms clean, with a
piece of flannel dipped in salt and water, put them into a
saucepan, and throw a little salt ovr them. Let them boil
up tlnee times in their own liquor, then throw them into a
sieve to drain, and spread them on a clean cloth. Let them
lie till they are cold, then put them into wide-mouthed bot-
tles, with a good deal of whole mace, a little nutmeg sliced,
and a few cloves. Boil the vinegar, with a good deal of whole
pepper, some races of ginger, and two or three bay leaves ;
let it boil a few minutes, then strain it, and when it is cold,
put it, on, and fill the bottles with mutton fat fried. Cork
them, tie a bladder, then a leather over them, and keep them
down close, in as cool a place as possible.
Or, take large mushrooms, peel them, and scrape out the
inside. Then put them into a saucepan, throw a little salt
over them, and let them boil in their own liquor. Then throw
APPENDIX, Sf?
them into a sieve to drain, lay them on tin plates, and set
theni in a cool oven. Repeat it often till they are perfectly
dry, then put them into a clean stone jar, tie them down tight,
and keep them in a dry place. They will keep a great while,
and eat and look as well as truffles.
Ketchup to keep twenty years.
TAKE a gallon of strong stale beer, a pound of anchovies
washed from the pickle, the same quantity of shalots peeled,
half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, a quarter of
an ounce of whole pepper, three or four large races of gin-
ger, and two quarts of large mushroom flaps rubbed to pieces.
Cover all this close, and let it simmer till it is half wasted.
Then strain it through a flannel bag, let it stand till quite cold,
and then bottle it. This may be carried to any part of the
world ; and a spoonful of it to a pound of fresh butter melted,
will make a fine fish sauce, or will supply the place of gravy
sauce. The stronger and staler the beer, the better will be the
ketchup.
Fish Sauce.
THE following fish sauce, though it will not keep more
than a year, may be very useful in short voyages : Chop
twenty-four anchovies, having first boned them ; put to them
ten shalots cut small, and a handful of scraped horse-radish,
a quarter of an ounce of mace, a quart of white wine, a pint
of water, and the same quantity of red wine ; a lemon cut
into slices, half a pint of anchovy liquor, twelve cloves, and
the same number of pepper corns. Boil them together till
it comes to a quart, then strain it off, cover it close, and keep
it in a cold dry place. Two spoonsful of it will be sufficient
for a pound of butter. It is a pretty sauce for boiled fowls
and many other things, or in the room of gravy, lower i no- it
with hot water, and thickening it with a piece of butter rolled
in flour.
Dripping.
DRIPPIN T G will be very useful at sea, to frv fish or meat, and
for this purpose it must be thus potted : Take six pounds of
good beef drijpping, boil it in some soft water, strain it into
a pan, and let it stand till it is cold. Then take off the hard
fat, and scrape off the gravy which sticks to the inside. Do
this eight times, and when it is cold and hard, take it off
clean from the water, and put it into a large saucepan, with
six bay-leaves, twelve cloves, half a pound of salt, and a quar-
ter of a pound of whole pepper. Let the fat be all melted
378 APPENDIX.
and just hot enough to strain through a sieve into the pot.
Then let it stand till it is quite cold, and cover it up. The
best way to keep any sort of dripping, is to turn the pot up-
side down, and then no rats can get at it. It will keep on
shipboard, and make as fine puff paste crust as any butter
whatever, for pies or puddings.
Directions for steeping dried Fish.
EVERY kind of fish, except stock-fish, are salted, or either
dried in the sun, as the most common way, or in preparing
kilns, and sometimes by the smoke of wood fires in chimney-
corners, and, in either case, require being softened and fresh-
ened in proportion to their bulk, their nature, or dryness. The
very dry sort, as bacalao, cod fish, or whiting, and such like,
should oe steeped in luke-warm milk and water, and the steep-
ing kept as nearly as possible to an equal degree of heat. The
larger fish should be steeped twelve hours ; the small, such as
whitings, &c. about two hours. The cod are therefore laid to
steep in the evening ; the whitings, &c. in the morning before
they are to be dressed. After the time of steeping they are to
be taken out, and hung up by the tails until they are dressed.
The reason of hanging them up is, that they soften equally as
in the steeping, without extracting too much of the relish,
which would make them insipid. When thus prepared, the
small fish, as whitings, tusk, and such like, must be floured and
lard on the gridiron, and when a little hardened on one side,
must be turned and basted with oil upon a feather; and when
basted on both sides, and heated through, take them up,
always observing, that as sweet oil supples and supplies the
fish with a kind of artificial juices, so the fire draws out these
juices and hardens them. Therefore be careful not to let
them broil too long; but no time can be prescribed, because
of the difference of fires, and various sizes of the fish. A
clear charcoal fire is much the best, and the fish kept at a
good distance, to broil gradually. The best way to know
when they are enough is, they will swell a little in the basting,
and you must not let them fall again.
The sauces are the same as usual to salt fish ; and the usual
garnish, oysters fried in batter ; but for a supper, for those
that like sweet oil, the best sauce is oil, vinegar, and mustard,
beat up to a consistence, and served up in a boat.
Should your fish be boiled, as those of a large sort usually
are, it should be in milk and water, but not properly to say
boiled, as it should only just simmer over an equal fire; in
which way, half an hour will do the largest fish, and five mi-
nutes the smallest. Some people broil both sorts after sim-
mering, and some pick them to pieces and then toss them up
APPENDIX. 373
in a pan .with fried onions and apples. They are either way
very good, and the choice depends on the weak or strong
stomach of the eaters.
Dried Salmon.
DRIED salmon must be managed in a different manner; for
though a large fish, they do not require more steeping than a
whiting ; and should be moderately peppered when laid on the
gridiron.
Dried Herrings.
DRIED herrings should he steeped the like time as the
whiting, in small beer instead of milk and water ; and to
which, as to all kinds of broiled salt fish, sweet oil will always
be found the best basting, and no ways effect even the deli-
cacy of those who do not Jove it.
SECTION V.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON
THE BREEDING OF POULTRY.
W HILE families remain in the country, it will sometimes be
expected of the housekeeper, that she should know some-
thing of the management of poultry. We shall therefore ap-
propriate a section to that purpose, in which we shall lay down
some general rules for that business. These hints may like-
wise be equally useful to those small families, who retire from
the noise and bustle of large towns and populous cities, to
spend the evening of their lives amidst the tranquillity of rural
scenes.
Fowls.
IN the first place, particular care must be taken that the
hen-roost be kept clean. Do not choose too large a breed
as they generally eat coarse ; and six hens to a cock will be
a good proportion. When fowls are near laying, o-ive them
whole rice, or nettle seed mixed with bran and bread, worked
into a paste. In order to make your fowls familiar, feed them
at particular hours, and always in one place.
380 APPENDIX.
Great care must be taken to keep your storehouse free from
vermin, and contrive your perches so as not to be over one
another, nor over the nests, in which always take care to
keep clean straw. Wherever poultry are kept, all sorts of
vermin will naturally come ; for which reason it would be
proper to sow wormwood and rue about the places in which
you keep them, and you may also l^pil wormwood, and sprin-
kle the floor with it, which will nobf ; only contribute to keep
away vermin, but also add much to tne health of your poultry.
As to rats, mice, and weasels, the best method is to set traps
for them.
If you feed your hens now and then with barley bruised,
and with the toasts taken out of ale, they will lay often, and
all the winter. To prevent your hens eating their own eggs,
which they sometimes will, lay a piece of chalk cut like an
egg, at which they will often be pecking, and thus finding
themselves disappointed, they will not afterwards attempt it.
When your hens are inclinable to sit, which you will know by
their clucking, do not disappoint them, nor put more than ten
under each. March is reckoned a good month to set hens in ;
but if the}' be properly fed, they will lay many eggs, and set
at any time.
Ducks.
DUCKS usually begin to lay in February ; and if your gar.
dener be diligent in picking up snails, grubs, -caterpillars,
worms, and other insects, and lay them in one place, it will
make your ducks familiar, and is the best food, for change, you
can give them. Parsley, sowed about the ponds or river
they use, gives their flesh an agreeable taste j and be always
sure to have one certain place for them constantly to retire to
at night. Partition off their nests, and make them as near the
water as possible. Always feed them there, as it makes them
love home, ducks being of a rambling nature. Their eggs
should be taken away till they are inclined to sit, and it is
best for every duck, as well as every fowl, to sit upon her own
eggs.
Geese.
THE keeping of geese is attended with little trouble ; but
they spoil a deal .of grass, no creature choosing to eat after
them. When the goslings are hatched, let them be kept
within doors, and lettuce leaves and peas boiled in milk are
very good for them. When they are about to lay, drive them
to their nests, and shut them up, and set every goose with its
own eggs, always feeding them at one place, and at stated
times. They will feed upon all sorts of grain and grass ; and
APPENDIX. 381
you may gather acorns, parboil them in ale, and it will fatten
them surprisingly.
Turkeys.
TURKEYS require more trouble to bring them up than com-
mon poultry. The hen will lay till she is five years old. Be
sure always to feed them^near the place where you intend
they should lay, and feed'-them four or five times each day,
they being great devourers. While they are sitting they must
have plenty of victuals before them, and also be kept warm.
To fatten them, you must give them sodden barley and sod-
den oats, for the first fortnight, and then cram them as you
do capons.
Pigeons,
IF you keep pigeons, which are generally hurtful to your
neighbours, take care to feed them well, or you will lose
them all. They are great devourers, and yield but little profit.
Their nests should be made private and separate, or they will
always disturb one another. Be sure to keep their house clean,
and lay among their food some hempseed, of which they are
great lovers.
Rabbits.
TAME rabbits are very fertile, bringing forth every month ;
and as soon as they have kindled, put them to the buck, or
they will destroy their young. The best food for them is the
sweetest hay, oats, and bran, marsh mallows, sowthistle, pars-
ley, cabbage-leaves, clover-grass, &c. always fresh. If you
do not keep them clean, they will poison both themselves and
those that look after them.
Capons.
THE best way to cram a capon or a turkey is, to take bar-
ley meal properly sifted, and mix it with new milk. Make it
into a good stiff dough paste ; then make it into long crams or
rolls, big in the middle, and small at both ends. Then wetting
them in lukewarm milk, give the capon a full gorge three times
a day, morning, noon, and night, and in two or three weeks it
will be as fat as necessary. In Norfolk, they use ground buck
wheat instead of barley meal.
Fowls are very liable to a disorder called the pip, which is a
white thin scale growing on the tip of the tongue ; and will
prevent poultry from feeding. This is easily discerned, and
generally proceeds from drinking puddle water, or want of
water, or eating filthy meat. This, however, may be cured,
382 APPENDIX.
by pulling off the souJe with your nail, and then rubbing the
tongue with salt.
The flux in poultry conies from their eating too much meat,
and the cure is to give them peas and bran scalded. If your
poultry be much troubled with lice (which is common, pro-
ceeding from corrupt food, and other causes) , take pepper
beaten small, mix it with warm water, wash your poultry with
it, and it will kill all kinds of vermin.
Rats and Mice Bait for.
Mix flour of malt with tresh-butter, and add a few drops of
oil of aniseed ; make into balls, and with them bait the
traps. This bait has never been known to fail.
*
Rats To drive away.
LAY birdlime in their haunts, for though nasty in other re-
spects, yet being very curious of their fur, if it be but daubed
with birdlime, it will be so troublesome to them, that they
will even scratch oft the skin to get it off, and will never stay
in a place where they have suffered in such a manner.
Rats and Mice To destroy.
IN or near the place frequented by these vermin, place on
a slate or tile one or two table spoonsful of dry oatmeal: lay
it thin, and press it flat, more easily to ascertain what is taken
away. As the rats, if not interrupted, will come regularly
there to feed, continue to supply them with fresh oatmeal for
two or three days; and then well mixing, in about six table-
spoonsful of dry oatmeal, three drops only of oil of ani-
seed, ft-ed them with this for two or three days more : after-
wards, for one day, give them only half the quantity of this
scented oatmeal which they have before actually eaten ; and
next day place the following mixture : to four ounces of dry
oatmeal, scented with six drops of oil of aniseed, add half
an ounce of carbonated barytes, previously pounded very fine
in a mortar, and sifted through a 4ittle fine muslin or cam-
bric. Mix this intimately with the scented oatmeal; and
laying it on the tile or slate, allow the rats to eat it, without
the smallest interruption for twenty-four hours ; and all those
that have eaten any of it will inevitably be killed. The car-
bonated barytes may be purchased of Brown and Ma\v, Ta-
vistock Street ; Accum, Compton Street ; and Allen and
Howard, Plough Court, Lombard Street, London.
APPENDIX.
A CATALOGUE OF
GARDEN STUFFS, POULTRY, AND FISH,
IN SEASON IN THE DIFFERENT MONTHS OF THE YEAR.
J ANUARY. Pears, apples, nuts, almonds, medlars, services,
and grapes.
February. Pears, apples, and grapes.
March. Pears, apples, and forced strawberries.
April. Apples, pears, forced cherries, and apricots for
tarts.
May. Pears, apples, strawberries, melons, green apricots,
cherries, gooseberries, and currants for tarts.
June. Currants, gooseberries, strawberries, cherries,
peaches, pears, apples, apricots, melons, grapes, nectarines,
and pine-apples.
July. Peaches, cherries, apples, pears, gooseberries, apri-
cots, plums, nectarines, melons, raspberries, strawberries, and
pine-apples.
August. Apples, cherries, plums, nectarines, peaches, mul-
berries, filberts, figs, grapes, pears, currants, gooseberries,
strawberries, melons, and pine-apples.
September. Walnuts, grapes, pears, apples, plums, peaches,
lazaroles, quinces, medlars, hazel-nuts, filberts, morello cher-
ries, currants, melons, and pine-apples.
October. Services, medlars, figs, peaches, grapes, walnuts,
black and white bullace, pears, quinces, filberts, hazel-nuts,
and apples.
November. Pears, apples, bullace, walnuts, hazel-nuts,
chesnuts, medlars, services, and grapes.
December. Pears, apples, medlars, walnuts, chesnuts, ser-
yices, hazel-nuts, and grapes.
Roots and Vegetables.
January. -Spinach, purple and white brocoli sprouts, cole-
vrorts, savoys, cabbages, celery, endive, chervil, sorrel, pars-
ley, beets, cardoons, tarragon, turnips, radish, rape, mustard,
cresses, lettuces, hyssop, pot-marjoram, savory, thyme, cu-
cumbers from the hot-houses, mint, skirrets, scorzonora, po-
tatoes, turnips, carrots, parsnips, sage, asparagus, Jerusalem
artichokes, and mushrooms.
February, Coleworts, savoys, cabbages, cresses, lettuces.
384 APPENDIX.
chard-beets, celery, sorrel, endive, chervil, paisley, cardoons,
purple and white brocoli, sprouts, marjoram, savory, thyme,
tansey, burnet, mint, tarragon, turnips, radishes, rape and
mustard. Also may be had, forced radishes, cucumbers,
kidney-beans, and asparagus.
March. Spinach, savoys, cabbages, borecole, coleworts,
shalots, garlick, onions, Jerusalem artichokes, parsnips, turnips,
carrots, mustard, cresses, chives, lettuces, mushrooms, tansey,
endive, celery, fennel, parsley, beets, cardoons, brocoli, kid-
ney-beans, cucumbers, hyssop, pot-marjoram, winter savory,
thyme, burnet, mint, tarragon, turnips, rape, and radishes.
April. Brocoli, sprouts, coleworts, chervil, parsley, fennel,
spinach, radishes, tarragon, burnet, sorrel, endive, celery,
young onions, lettuces, thyme, and all sorts of salads and pot-
herbs.
May. Spinach, artichokes, cauliflowers, early cabbages,
radishes, turnips, carrots, early potatoes, parsley, sorrel, thyme,
mustard, cresses, lettuces, fennel, purslane, mint, balm, cu-
cumbers, tarragon, asparagus, kidney-beans, beans, peas, and
all sorts of small salads and savoury herbs.
June. Peas, beans, onions, radishes, parsnips, potatoes,
turnips, cauliflowers, purslane, parsley, spinach, lettuces, cu-
cumbers, artichokes, kidney-beans, asparagus, rape, cresses,
thyme, and all sorts of small salads, and pot-herbs.
July. Cauliflowers, mushrooms, salsify, scorzonera, ro-
combole, garlick, onions, radishes, potatoes, turnips, carrots,
cresses, lettuce, purslane, sorrel, chervii, finochia, endive,
celery, artichokes, sprouts, cabbages, kidney-beans, beans,
peas, mint, balm, thyme, and all sorts of small salads and
pot herbs.
August. Radishes, potatoes, turnips, carrots, peas, salsify,
scorzonera, shalots, garlick, onions, endive, celery, beets,
sprouts, cauliflowers, cabbages, artichokes, mushrooms, beans,
kidney-beans, lettuce, finochia, parsley, marjoram, savory,
thyme, and all sorts of small salads and sweet herbs.
Septembtr. Beans, peas, salsify, scorzonera, garlick, leeks,
onions, shalots, potatoes, turnips,, carrots, parsley, celery,
endive, cardoons, cauliflowers, sprouts, cabbages, artichokes,
mushrooms, kidney-beans, finochia, chervil, sorrel, beets,
lettuces, and all sorts of small salads and soup-herbs.
October. Salsify, skirrets, potatoes, turnips, parsnips, car,
rots, artichokes, cauliflowers, sprouts, cabbages, finochia, cher-
vel, cardoons, endive, celery, rocombole, garlick, shalots,
leeks, scorzonera, chard-beets, thyme, savory, lettuce, and all
sorts of young salads and pot-herbs.
November. Rocombole, shalots, leeks, onions, scorzonera,
salsify, skirrets, potatoes, parsnips, turnips, carrots, parsley,
APPENDIX. 385
cardoons, chard-beets, spinach, coleworts, sprouts, savoys,
cauliflowers, cabbages, Jerusalem artichokes, cresses, endive,
chervil, lettuces, a:id all sorts of srrfall salads and pot-herbs.
December. Turnips, parsnips, carrots, purple and white
brocoli, savoys, cabbages, shalots, onions, leeks, salsify, scor-
zonera, skirrets, potatoes, parsley, spinach, beets, endive,
celery, rocombole, garlic, forced asparagus, cardoons, cres-
ses, lettuces, thyme, and all sorts of small salads and pot-
herbs.
Poultry and Game.
JANUARY. Pullets, fowls, chickens, tame pigeons, capons,
turkeys, snipes, woodcocks, rabbits, hares, partridges, and
pheasants.
February. Fowls, pullets, capons, turkeys, chickens, pi-
geons, tame rabbits, hares, snipes, woodcocks, partridges, and
pheasants.
March. Tame rabbits, pigeons, ducklings, chickens, fowls,
capons, pullets, and turkeys.
April. Chickens, fowls, pullets, pigeons, ducklings, leve-
rets, and rabbits.
May. Chickens, fowls, pullets, turkey poults, ducklings,
green geese, leverets, and rabbits.
June. Green geese, chickens, pullets, fowls, plovers, tur-
key poults, ducklings, wheat-ears, leverets, and rabbits.
July. Green geese, pigeons, chickens, fowls, pullets, duck-
lings, ducks, turkey-poults, leverets, rabbits, plovers, wheat-
ears.
August. Turkey-poults, green geese, chickens, fowls, pul-
lets, pigeons, rabbits, leverets, ducklings, plovers, wheat-ears,
and wild-ducks.
September. Ducks, chickens, fowls, pullets, turkeys, geese,
larks, pigeons, teal, rabbits, hares, and partridges.
October. Chickens, fowls, pullets, pigeons, turkeys, geese,
snipes, woodcocks, widgeoqs, teals, wild-ducks, rabbits,hares,
larks, dotterels, partridges, and pheasants.
November. Pigeons, pullets, chickens, fowls, turkeys, geese,
larks, snipes, woodcocks, teals, widgeons, wild-ducks, rabbits,
hares, dotterels, partridges, and pheasants.
December. Fowls, capons, pigeons, pullets, turkeys, geese,
larks, snipes, woodcocks, rabbits, hares, chickens, dotterels,
widgeons, teals, wild-ducks, partridges, and pheasants.
Fish.
JANUARY. Cod, crawfish, eels, lampreys, perch, tench,
carp, sturgeon, skate, thornback, turbot, plaice, flounders,
soles, oysters, prawns, crabs, lobsters, smelts, and whitings.
c c
386 APPENDIX.
February. Thornback, turbot, flounders, plaice, sturgeon!^
soles, cod, prawns, oysters, crabs, lobsters, smelts, whitings,
skate, cra\\fish, lampreys, eels, carp, tencb, and perch.
March. Tench, carp, mullets, eels, whitings, soles, skate,
thornback, turbot, lobsters, flounders, plaice, prawns, craw-
fish, and crabs.
April. Crawfish, trout, tench, chub, carp, mullets, skate,
soles, turbot, salmon, prawns, lobsters, crabs, and smelts.
May. Chub, trout, eels, tench, carp, smelts, turbots,
soles, salmon, prawns, crabs, crawfish, and lobsters.
June. Eels, pike, tench, carp, trout, mackarel, mullets,
turbot, soles, salmon, smelts., lobsters, crawfish, and prawns.
July. Mackarel, mullets, haddocks, cod, flounders, plaice,
soles, carp, salmon, skate, thornback, pike, tench, lobsters,
eels, crawfish, and prawns.
August. Thornbacks, skate, plaice, flounders, haddocks,
cod, carp, pike, mackarel, mullets, oysters-, prawns, crawfish,
eels, and lobsters.
September. Thornbacks, plaice, flounders, haddocks, cod,
carp, salmon, smelts, soles, skate, herrings, oysters, lobsters,
pike, and tench.
October. Brills, smelts, bearbet, holoberts, dorees, perch,
tencb^carp, pike, herrings, gudgeons^ oysters, muscles, cockles,
lobsters, and salmon-trout.
Nffo&nber. Salmon, bearbet, holoberts, dorees, gurnets,
tench, pike, carp, smelts, salmon, herrings, trout, muscles,
cockles, gudgeons, lobsters, and oysters.
December. Bearbet, holoberts, dorees, sturgeon, gurnets,
turbct, carp, soles, codlings, cod, smelts, oysters, muscles,
cockles, eels, and gudgeons.
N. B. Beef, mutton, and veal, are in season, all the year ;
house-lamb, in January, February, March, November, and
December; grass-lamb, in April, May, June, July, August,
September, and October; pork, in January, February,
March, September, October, November, and December ;
buck-venison, in June, July, August, and September ; and
doe-venison, in October, November, and December.
[ 387 ]
MARKETING TABLES, FROM THREEPENCE-FARTHING TO
FOURPENCE-HALFPENNY PER POUND, Sfc.
No.
3,Pence $
3 Pence 4
3 Pence J
4 Pen.e
4 Pence $
l
4 Pence 4
/is. &Y.
. s. d.
. s. d.
. s. d.
. s. d.
. s. d.
. s. d.
2
006^
007
7A
008
o 6 84
009
3
9|
10|
11$
I
1 04.
o i 14
4
1 _]
1 2
1 3
1 4
1 5
1 6
5
1 4$
0.1 54
1 6|
1 8
1 9$
o i 104
6
1 7^
1 9
o i 104
2
0-2 14
023
7
1 lui
2 04
022$
024
2 5J
2 74
8
022
024
026
028
2 10
030
9
2 5$
2 74
2 9f
030
032$
3 4f
10
o 2 34
211
3 U
034
3 64
039
11
2 11|
3 24
035$
038
3 10|
4 14
12
3 3
036
039
040
043
046
13
o 3 ;$
3 94
4 0|
044
047$
4 104
14
3 94
4 1
4 44
048
4 114
053
13
4 0|
4 44
048$
050
5 3$
5 74
16
04.4
048
050
054
058
060
17
4 7$
V 114
5 3|
058
"060$
6 44
18
4 10
053
5 74
060
6 44
069
19
5 1}
5 64
5 11$
064
6 8|
7 1
20
055
5 10
063
068
7 1
076
21
058$
6 1J
6 64
0-70
075$
7 104
22
5 1U
065
6 10|
074
7 94
.083
. 23
6 2j
6 84
072$
078
8 1|
8 74
24
066
070
076
080
086
090
25
6 9$
7 34
7 9J
084
8 10$
9 44
26
7
077
8 14
088
9 24
099
27
7 34.
7 lO^
085$
090
9 6|
o 10 14
[28
077
082
089
094
9 11
10 6
29
'7 10$
8 54
o y QJ
098
10 3$
o 10 104
30
8 14
089
9 44
10
o 10 74
11 3
31
8 4J
9 Of
098$
10 4
10 11|
on 74
32
088
0-94
10
10 8
11 4
12
33
8 11$
9 74
10 3|
ll
11 8$
12 44
34
9 24-
9 11
10 7f
11 4
12 0|
12 9
35
9 ,5|
o 10 24
10 11$
11 8
12 4|
13 14
36
099
10 6
11 3
12 6
12 9
13 G
37
10 0$
o 10 34
Oil ti|
12 4
13 1$
13 104
38
10 3|
11 1
o n 104
12 8
13 54
14 3
39
10 6|
o n . 44
12 2$
13
13 9|
14 7j
40
10 10
0118
12 6
13 4
14 2
15
41
11 1$
11 11^
12 9|
13 8
J4 6$
15 44
42
Oil 4$
12 3
13 14
14
14 104
15 9
43
11 7|
12 64
13 5$
14 4
15 2|
16 14
44
11 11
12 10
13 9
14 8
15 7
16 6
45
012 2$
13 14
14 0|
15
1-5 11$
16 104
46
12 54
13 5
14 44
15 4
016 34 '
17 3
47
12 84
13 S|
14 8$
15 8
16 7J
17 74
43
13
14
15
16
17
18
49
13 34-
14 34
15 3|
t) 16 4
17 4$
18 4|
50
13 6|
14 7
15 74
16 8
17 8
18 9
51
13 94
14 10|
15 11$
17
18 0|
19 14
52
14 1
15 2
16 3
17 4
018-5
19 6
53
14 4$
15 54
16 6|
17 8
18 9$
19 10|
54
14 7|
15 9
16 104
18
19 14
1 3
55
14 1()|
16 04
17 2$
18 4
19 5$
i o 74
[5G
15 2
16 4
17 6
18 8
19 10
1 1
[84
1 2 9
] 4 6
1 6 3
1 8
1 9 9
1 11 6
[100
1 7 1
192
1 11 3
1 13 4
1 15 5
1 17 6
[112
1 10 4
1 12 8
1 15
1 17 4
1 19 8
220
[ 388 ]
> 4
MARKETING TABLES, FROM FOURPENCE-THREE-FARTHINGS
TO SIXPENCE PER POUND, Sfc.
No.
4 Pence J
5 Pence.
5 Pence $
5 Pence $
5 Pence |
6 Pence.
bs. Ifc.
. s. d.
. s. d.
. s. d.
.8. d.
.. d.
. a. d.
2
9$
10
o o 104
11
11$
1
3
1 2|
013
1 3}
1 4$
1 5$
1 6
4
1 7
1 8
1 9
1 10
1 11
020
5
1 11|
2 1
2 2$
023$
2 4|
026
6
2 4$
026
2 7$
029
2 10$
030
7
029$
2 11
3 0|
3 2$
034$
036
8
032
034
036
038
3 10
040
9
3 6|
039
3 11$
041$
4 3J
046
10
311$
042
044*
047
049$
050
11
4 4|
047
4 9|
050$
053$
056
12
049
050
053
056
059
060
13
5 If
055
5 8$
5 11$
6 2}
066
14
5 6|
5 10
061$
065
068$
070
15
5 11$
063
6 6
6 10$
072$
076
16
064
068
7 "0
074
078
080
17
6 8|
7 1
7 5$
079$
8 1J
086
18
7 11
076
7 10$
083
087$
090
19
7 6$
7 11
8 5}
088$
091$
096
20
0711
084
089
092
097
10
21
8 3|
089
9 2$
9 7$
10 Of
10 6
22
8 8$
092
097$
10 1
10 6$
11
23
9 1$
097
10 Of
10 6$
Oil 0$
11 6
24
096
10
10 6
11
11 6
1>2
25
9 10J
10 5
10 11$
Oil 5$
11 llf
12 6
26
10 3$
10 10
11 4$
11 11
12 5$
13
27
10 8$
0113
Oil 9|
12 4$
12 11$
13 6
[28
11 1
11 8
12 3
12 10
13 5
14
29
Oil 5J
12 1
12 8$
13 3*
13 lOf
14 6
30
11 10$
12 6
13 1$
13 9
14 4$
15
31
12 3$
12 11
13 6|
14 2$
14 10$
15 6
32
12 8
13 4
14
14 8
15 4
16
33
13 0|
13 9
14 5$
15 1$
15 9|
16 6
34
13 5$
14 2
14 10$
15 7
16 3$
17
35
13 10$
14 7
15 3|
Ifi OJ
16 i>$
17 6
36
14 3
15
15 9
16 6
17 3
18
37
14 7J
15 5
16 1$
16 11$
17 8|
18 6
38
15 0$
15 I'O
16 7$
17 5
18 2$
19
39
15 5$
16 3
17 0|
17 10$
18 8$
19 6
40
15 10
16 8
17 6
18 4
19 t
1
41
1C 2|
17 1
17 11$
18 9$
J9 7|
1 6
42
16 7
17 6
18 4$
19 3
1 1$
1 1 0'
43
17 o|
-0 17 11
18 8|
19 8$
1 7$
1 1 6
44
17 5
18 4
19 3
1 2
1 1 1
1 2
45
17 9|
18 9
19 8$
1 7$
1 1 6|
1 2 6
46
18 2i
19 2
1 1$
1 1 1
1 2 0$
1 3
47
18 7$
19 7
1 6|
1 1 6$
1 2 6$
1 3 6
48
19
1
1 1
1 2
1 3
140
49
19 4}
1 5
1 1 5$
1 2 5$
1 3 5}
1 4 6
50
19 9*
10
1 1 10$
1 2 11
1 3 11$
1 5
51
i o 2$
1 3
1 2 3|
1 3 4$
1 4 5$
1 5 6
52
107
1 8
1 2 9
1 3 10
1 4 11
1 6
53
1 ll|
2 1
1 32$
1 4 3$
1 5 4|
1 6 6
54
1 1 4j
2 6
1 8.7*
1 4 9
1 5 10$
170
55
1 I 9$
2 11
1 4 0}
1 5 2}
1 6 4$
176
[56
1 2 2
3 4
1 4 6
1 5 8
1 .6 10
1 8
. [84
1 13 3
15
I 16 9
1 18 6
203
220
[100
J 112
1 19 7
244
2 1 8
264
239
286
2 5 10
2 U 4
2 7 11
2 13 8
2 10
2 16
[ 389 ]
MARKETING TABLES, FROM SIXPENCE-HALFPENNY TO
NINEPENCE PER POUND, Sfc.
No
6 Pence
7 Pence
7 Pence
8 Pence
8 Pence \
9 Pence.
lt>s. $
. s. d
u. s. c
. s. d.
. s. d
. s. d
. s. d.
Oil
012
013
014
01 5
016
1 7f
019
1 10;
020
2 1.
023
i
022
024
026
028
2 10
030
,
2 8 ?
2 11
3 li
034
036;
039
i
033
036
039
040
043
04,6
7
039*
041
4 4-1
048
4 Hi
053
1
044
048
050
054
058
060
c
4 10
053
5 7f
060
6 4J
069
10
055
5 10
063
068
071
076
11
5 11^
065
6 lOf
074
7 9. J
083
12
066
070
076
080
086
090
13
070^
077
8 If
088
9 2f
099
11
077
082
089
094
9 11
10 6
15
8 If
089
9 4f
10
10 7\
11 3
16
088
094
10
10 8
11 4
12
17
9 2f
9 11
10 7f
11 4
12 OJj
12 9
18
099
10 6
11 3
12
12 9
13 6
19
10 3f
11 1
Oil 10f
12 8
13 54
14 3
20
10 10
11 8
12 6
13 4
14 2
15
21
11 4f
12 3
13 If
14
14 lOf
15 9
22
11 11
12 10
13 9
14 8
15 7
16 6
23
12 5f
13 5
14 4f
15 4
16 3f
17 3
24
13
14
15
16
17
18
25
13 6$
14 7
15 7f
16 8
17 8f
18 9
26
14 1
15 2
16 3
17 4
18 5
19 6
27
It 7f
15 9
16 lOf
18
19 If
103
[28
15 2
16 4
a 17 6
18 8
19 10
110-
29
15 8f
16 11
18 If
19 4
1 6f
119
30
16 3
17 6
18 9
100
113
1 2 6
31
16 9$
18 1
19 4f
108
1 1 Hf
133
32
17 4
18 8
1
114
128
140
33
17 lOf
19 3
1 7f
120
1 3 4f
149
34
18 5
19 10
113
128
1 4 1
156
35
18 llf
105
1 1 10-f
134
1 4 9f
1 6 3
36
19 6
110
126
140
156
170
37
1 Of
117
1 3 If
148
1 6 2f
1 7 9
38
107
1 2 2
139
154
1 6 11
1 ,8 6
39
1 1 If
129
1 4 4f
160
1 7 7f
193
40
118
134
150
168
184
1 10
41
1 2 2f
1 3 11
1 5 7f
174
9 Of
1 10 9
42
1 f 9
146
163
180
1 9 9
1 11 6
43
S 3%
151
1 6 10|
188
1 10 5f
1 12 3
44
3 10
5 8
176
194
1 11 2
13
45
4 4f
6 3
1 8 If
1 10
11 10}
13 9
46
4 11
6 10
189
1 10 8
1 12 7
14 6
47
5 5f
7 5
1 9 4f
1 11 4
13 3f
15 3
48
6
8
10
12
14
16
49
6 6f
8 7
10 7f
12 8
14 8f
16 9
50
7 1
9 2
1 11 3
13 4
15 5
17 6
51
7 7f
9 9
11 lOf
14
16 If
18 3
52
8 2
10 4
12 5
14 8
16 10
19
53
8 8f
10 11
13 If
15 4
17 6f
19 9
54
9 3
11 6
13 9
16
18 3
6
55
9 9f
12 1
14 4f
16 8
18 llf
1 3
[56
10 4
12 8
15
17 4
19 8
2
[84
5 6
9
2 12 6
16
19 6
3
[100
14 2
18 4
326
368
10 10
15
U 112
8
5 4
j 10
14 8
19 4
4
J
TABLE OF EXPENSES, INCOME, OR WAGES,
By the Day, Week, Month, and Year.
From One Penny to Ten Pounds per Day, how much per Week,
Month, and Year.
Per Day.
Per Week.
Per Month.
Per Year.
. *. d.
. s. d.
. s. d
of. S. d.
1
7
024
1 10 5
002
1 2
\ 8
"3 10
003
1
070
411 3
004
2 '4
094
6 1 8
005
2 11
11 8
7 12 1
006
036
14
926
007
4 1
16 4
10 12 11
008
048
18 8
12 3 4
v
009
053
1 1
13 13 9
O 10
5 10
1 3 4
15 4 4
II
065
1 -5 8
16 14 7
1
070
180
18 5
020
14
2 16
36 10
030
1 1
440
54 15
040
I 8
5 12
73 0-
050
1 15
700
91 5
060
220
880
109 10
070
290
9 16
127 15
080
2 16
11 4
146
090
< is<
330
12 12
164 5
10
3 10
14
182 10
11
3 17
15 8
200 15
12
440
16 16
219
13
4110
18 4
237 5
14
4 18
10 12
255 10
15
5 5
21
273 15
16
5 12
22 8
292
17
5 19
23 16
310 5
18
660
25 4
328 10
19
6 13
26 12
346 14
100
7 '0
28
365
200
14
56
730
3 00
21
84
1095
400
28
112
1460
500
35
14C
1825
600
42
168
2190
700
49
196
2555
800
56
224
2920
900
63
252
3285
10
70
280
3650
[ 391 ]
TABLE OF EXPENSES, INCOME, OR WAGES,
By the Year, Lunar Month, Week, and Day,
From One Pourid to 40,000 Pounds per Year, how much per Month,
Week, or Day.
Per Year.
1
Per Month.
Per Week.
Per Day.
.
. J. d
. s. d.
. s. d.
I
018
4|
'0 OJ
2
034
9i
If
3
050
1 If
2$
4
068
1 6|
2f
5
084
1 11
3
6
10
2 3|
004
7
0118
028
4f
8
13 4
3 1
5J
9
15
3 5|
006
10
20
16 8
1 13 4
0310
078
6|
1 1
30
2 10
11 6
1 7|
40
368
15 4
2 2|
50
434
19 2
2 8f
60
500
3
3 3|
70
5 16 8
6 10
3 10
. 80
6 13 4
10 8
044-|
90
7 10
14 6
0411
100
868
18 4
5 5i
200
> is<
16 13 4
3 16 8 '
10 11|
' 300
25
5 15
16 -S|
400
33 6 8
7 13 4
1 1 11
500
41 13 4
9 11 8
1 7 4|.
600
50
11 10
1 12 10*
700
58 6 8
13 8.4
1 18 4i
800
66 13 4
15 6 8
2 3 10
900
75
17 5
2 9 3J
1000
83 6 8
19 3 4
2 14 9J
2000
165 13 4
38 6 8
597
3000
250
57 10
8 4 4|
4000
333 6 8
76 13 4
10 19 2
5000
416 13 4
95 16 8
13 13 11|
6000
500
115
16 8 9
7000
583 6 8
134 3 4
19 3 6|
8000
666 13 "4
153 6 8
21 18 4|
9000
750
172 10
24 13 1|
10000
833 6 8
191 13 4
27 17 11J
20000
1666 13 4
383 6 8
54 15 10|
30000
2500
574 19
82 3 10
40000 ^
3333 6 8
767 13 4
109 11 9
INDEX.
A LA MODE beef, 140.
Allemande sauce, 145.
Almonds, burnt, 310.
fraze, 220.
pudding, 185.
Ipswich, ditto, 186.
soup, 166.
tarts, 266, 269.
green, ditto, 267.
Allspice, 226.
Anchovies, artificial, 238.
essence of, 152.
sandwich, 130.
sauce, 153.
Angelica, candied, 313.
tart, 268.
water, 340.
Aniseed water, 340.
Appendix, 362.
Apple cheese, 309.
dumplins, 196.
fritters, 223.
pie, 209.
pudding, 196.
sauce, 147.
tart, 209.
Apricot cakes, 276.
dried, 3.12.
jam, 288.
marmalade, 308.
pickled/ 231.
preserved, 307.
pudding, 189, 194.
tart, 266,
wine, 328.
Aqua mirabilis, 343.
Artichoke bottoms, batter for
frying, 56.
dried, 261.
fricassee, 86.
fried, 57.
pickled, 235.
Artichoke pie, 210.
ragood, 79.
stewed, 72.
Asparagus, forced in French rolls,
178.
omlette, 133.
pickled; 236.
ragood, 80.
soup, 171, 178.
Asses' milk, artificial, 375.
Bacon, choice of, 13.
cured in the Westmoreland
way, 250.
ditto, Westphalia, 250.
and calfs-liver, eggs, and
herbs, 137.
Baking, 45 to 68.
Balm wine, 334.
Barbel stewed, 73.
Barley broth, Scotch, 163.
cream, 285.
pudding, 190.
water, for the sick, 374.
wine, 332.
Bars, to remove the black or
burnt parts of, 5.
Bath cakes, 274.
Batter, for frying artichoke bot-
toms, celery, eggs, ox-peths,
sweetbreads, and tripe, 56.
394
INDEX.
Batter pudding, 198.
ditto, without eggs, 19.8.
Beans to dress, 179.
Beds, care of, 5.
Beef a 1'angloise, 61.
a la daub, 90.
a la francoise, 60.
a la mode, 89.
a la royale, 90.
a la vinaigrette, 93, 135.
baked, 93.
bouillie aux choux, 91.
broth for the sick, 37 1 .
choice of, 9.
chops, 91.
cold roasted, five different
ways, 135.
collared, 239.
Dutch, 254. V;.'
escarlate, 94.
essence of, for the sick, 37 3.
fillet of, 91.
fricandeau, 81.
gobbets, 61.
hams, 253.
hashed and bones broiled,
65,
ditto, plainly, 63.
savorily, 62.
hung, 253,
joints of, and care of joints, 9.
leg of, baked, 45.
ditto, stewed, 1 34.
minced, 65.
olives, 90.
palates, for made dishes,
ragouts, &c. 94.
ditto, brown, 94.
white, 95.
potted, 245, 246.
tagood, 76.
rump, baked, 46.
forced, 92.
stewed, 60.
round, forced, 93.
sirloin, ditto, 93.
ditto, en epigram, 92.
, soup, for the sick, 27 3 .
steaks broiled, 49.
fried, 54.
Beef steak pie, 201.
stewed, 61, 140.
with cucumbers, 61,
savorily, 61.
stock, 141, 142.
tails, 94.
tea, for the sick, 37 1 .
tremblanque, 91.
Benshamelle sauce, 144.
Beet-root, pickled, 232.
Berberries, ditto, 231.
preserved, 306.
ditto, in bunches, 306.
Bilboquet fritters, 221.
Birch wine, 329.
Birds in savory jelly, 121.
potted, 246.
Biscuit pudding, 185.
Biscuits, common, 274.
drop, 273.
French, 273.
Spanish, 273.
sponge, 273.
Bits, to clean, 8.
Black caps, ^74.
Blackberry wine, 324.
Black puddings, 256.
ditto, Scotch, 256.
Blacking, for shoes, 8.
Blanc mange, 290.
Boiling, 27 to 36.
Boot-tops, to clean, 8.
Bourgeois soup, 163.
Bradofogado, 132.
Braise, brown, 155.
white, 155.
Brandy, cherry, 336.
lemon, 336.
orange, 337.
raspberry, 336.
Brawn, choice of, 13.
mock, 254.
Bread and flour, 367 to 371.
French, 369.
leaven, 368.
London, 368.
pudding, 192.
ditto, baked, 193.
sauce, 148.
Brocoli to dress, 179.
INDEX.
395
Broiling, 49 to 54.
Browning for made dishes and
sauces, &c. 143.
Bubble and squeak, 136.
Bullace cheese, 309-
Bardwan, English, 132.
Indian, 132.
Burnt cream, 285.
Bustards, choice of, 15.
Butler, duty of, 7.
Butter, choice of, 18.
melted in the best man-
ner, 144.
passing of, 143.
Buttered water, 373.
Cabbage to dress, 176.
force meagre, 18.
pudding, 191.
red, pickled, 234.
Calf's appurtenances,to dress, 101.
feet, fricasseed, 83.
jelly, 291.
pie, 20 1-.
pudding, 182.
ragood, 77.
head, baked, 46.
boiled, 29.
collared, 241.
hashed, 63.
pie, 203.
roasted, 4-0.
ditto, German way,
40.
surprised, 102.
heart, roasted, 102.
liver, bacon, eggs, and
herbs, 137.
ditto, roasted, 40, 102, 1^6.
Cakes, 270 to 280.
Camp vinegar, 1 56.
Candying and drying, 307, 313.
Carp baked, 47.
fried, 58.
matelot of, 128, 129.
pie, 215.
potted, 249.
souties of, 125.
steAved, 73.
ditto, white, 73.
Carpets, to clean, 5.
Carriages, care of, 8.
Carrots, to dress, 177.
fritters, 221.
pudding, 190.
sauce, 154.
Carving, 316, 323.
Cassia, candied, 308.
Caudle, brown, 375.
white, 375.
Cauliflowers, to dress, 178.
pickled, 234.
ragood, 80.
Caveach, 137.
Celery, batter for frying, 50.
fried, 57.
sauce, brown, 153.
ditto, white, 153.
Cellar, care of, 7.
Champaign, English, 335,
Chardoons, stewed, 72.
Chars, potted, 247.
Cheese, choice of, 19.
apple, 309.
bullace, 309.
damson, 309.
plum, 309.
Cheesecakes, almond, 282.
bread, 283.
citron, 282.
curd, 283. ,
fine, 283.
lemon, 282.
Cheesecurd, pudding, 196.
Cherries, dried, 311.
pie, 211.
preserved, 304.
tart, 266.
" water, 343.
wine, 327.
Chervil sauce, 154.
Cheshire pork-pie, 208.
sandwich, 130.
Chesnut pudding, 195.
soup, 164.
Chickens, boiled, 29.
broiled, 50.
broth for the sicK, 273?
chirin grate, 117.
fricandeau, 82.
fricasseed, brown, 84.
ditto,\white, 84.
396
INDEX.
Chickens, fritters, 222.
minced for the sick,272.
pie, savory, 205.
pulled, 84.
ditto, for the sick, 272.
roasted, 41.
sandwich, 130.
in savory jelly* 1 16.
sauce for cold, 151.
stewed, 68.
surprised, 116.
to truss, 23.
water for the sick, 273.
Chimney-pieces, to black, 6.
Chinese obelisk, in sugar, 313.
temple, ditto, 313.
Chocolate cream, 287.
tarts, 267, 269.
water, 340.
Christmas pie, 212.
Citron cheesecake, 282.
pudding, 192.
Cinnamon, to kee'p, 226.
Clary fritters, 224.
wine, 329.
Clothes, to clean, 8.
Cloves, to keep, 226.
Coachman, duty of, 8.
Cockle ketchup, brown, 159.
ditto, white, 159.
pickled, 238.
Cocks, choice of, 14.
Cod, boiled, 33.
broiled, 51.
crimped and broiled, 51.
entree of, 125.
headf baked, 48.
ditto, roasted, 45.
salted, 33.
sounds, boile'd, 38.
broiled, 51.
fricassee, 87.
souties of, 125.
stewed, 74.
ditto, the Scotch manner, 75.
Codlins, pickled, 230.
pie, 209.
preserved for tarts, 301.
Coffee water, 340.
Collaring, 239 to 243.
Colouring, for sauces, soups, &c.
143.
Consumee, or essence ofveal,143.
Cook, duty of, 4.
Cordial waters, 339 to 345.
Cornelia, 340.
Coulis, 143.
Cow-heel, to dress, 140.
soup, 167.
Crab, to be eaten cold, ISO,
ditto, hot, 130.
sauce, 152.
Cranberries, bottled, 261.
Crawfish soup, 172.
stewed, 76.
Cream cakes, 272.
pancakes, 218.
pudding, 187.
Creams and jams, 284.
Cressu soup, 165.
Crust for pies, with suet, 200.
very large pies, 200.
standing, for ditto, 200.
Cucumbers, with eggs, 130.
(girkins) pickled, 227 .
ditto, in slices, 227.
preserved, 303.
ragood, 80.
sauce, 154.
stewed, 71.
Culinary poisons, remarks on,
361 to 366.
Cumberland pudding, 186.
Curd fritters, 223.
puffs, 268.
Currants, bottled, 261.
cakes, 279.
fritters, 220.
(black) jam, 289.
(ditto), jelly, 292.
(red) jelly, 292.
pickled, 237.
preserved, red, 300.
in bunches, white, 300.
for tarts, 301.
tarts, 266.
shrub, 337.
wine, 327.
Custards, almond, 281.
baked, 280.
beast, 282.
lemon, 281.
orange, 281.
plain, 281.
INDEX.
397
Custard pudding, 183.
Cyprus wine, 335.
Damsons, bottled, 262.
cheese, 309.
dried, 311.
preserved, 303.
pudding, 184.
wine, 325.
Desert island, in sugar, 314.
Devonshire squab pie, 208.
Domestic economy, hints on, 3.
Dripping, for the use of persons
at sea, 377.
Drying and candy ing, 307 to313.
Ducks, a la benshamelle, 115.
a la braise, 114.
a la daub, 115.
a la mode, 114.
aux concombres, 115.
"aux navels, 115.
boiled, 31.
choice of, 14.
larded, 115.
pie, 205.
roasted, 43.
to truss, 22.
stewed, 69. -
ditto, with peas, 69.
Dueks (wild) hashed, 70.
Dutch sauce, 145.
Economy, domestic, hints on, 3.
Eels, boiled, 36.
broiled, 53.
choice of, 18.
collared, 242.
fried, 59.
pie, 215.
potted, 247.
roasted, 44. .
soup, 174.
souties of, 125.
stewed, 74.
Eggs, bacon, calf's liver, and
herbs, 137.
batter for frying, 56.
choice of, 19.
fricassee, 86.
ditto, with onioni and mush-
rooms, 86.
Eggs, fried, 56. ^
pie, 213.
sweet, ditto, 213,
sauce, 151.
soup, 173.
Elder buds, pickled, 232.
flower vinegar, 226.'
shoots, pickled, 233.
wine, 331.
Endive, to keep, 262.
ragood, 180.
stewed, 7 2.
English burdwan, 132.
olio, or hodge podge, 95.
Entree of crimped cod, 125.
eels, 126.
fillets of soles, 126.
ditto, of salmon, 126.
fish in balls, 126.
ditto, in a mould, 126.
mackarel, 126.
skate, 126.
Eschalot sauce, 154.
vinegar, 158.
Espagnol sauce, 145.
Essence of anchovies, 152.
ham, 148.
veal, or consume e, 1 43.
Fenders, to take the rust out of, 5.
Fennel sauce, 152.
Fever water, 345.
Fig wine, 332.
Fillet of beef, 91.
mackarel, 126.
pork, with sauce Robert,
112.
salmon, 127.
skate, 126.
soles, 126.
sturgeon, 128.
whitings, 128.
Fish boiled,mode of preparing,50.
choice of, 16.
fricassee of, generally, 88.
in jelly, 292.
in a mould, entree of, 126.
pies, sauce for, with cream,
151.
ditto, without cream, 1 52.
salt, pie of, 216.
398
INDEX.
Fish sauce, keeping, 151. See
Sauces.
ditto, tor persons at sea, 377.
steeping, 378.
Flammande sauce, 145.
Flannels, to wash, 6.
Flat-fish, to boil, 30.
a la francoise, 129.
Florendine hare, 121.
rabbit, 121.
Flounders,boiledforthesick,374.
choice of, 18.
fricassee, 87.
pie, 216.
stewed, 74-.'
water souchee, 75.
Flour hasty pudding, 1 88.
Flummery, 294.
bacon and eggs in, 295.
French, 294.
green melon, 294.
Solomon's temple in,295.
Footman, duty of, 6.
Forcemeat, cold, for balls, 156.
hot, or force, 155.
Fowls, a la daub, 116.
a la menehout, 116.
boiled, 29.
choice of, 14.
forced, 117.
fricandeau, 82.
hashed, 70.
in jelly, 291.
marinated, 118.
pulled, 84.
roasted, 41.
ditto, pheasaritfashion,42
stewed, 67.
ditto, in rice, 68.
to truss/ 22.
French barjey, pudding, 194.
beans, to dress, 177.
to keep, 258,259.
ragood, 177.
with a force, 177.
French pie, 208.
Fricandeaus, 81, 82.
Fricassees, 82, 83.
Fritters and pancakes, 21 8 to 224
Frontiniac wine, 335.
Frugal dishes, 134 to 141.
ruit, artificial, 315.
in jelly, 291.
and vegetables, catalogue
of, 383 to 385.
Drying, 54 to 60.
ame, in jelly, 291.
sandwich of, 1 30.
ammon, roasted, 39.
arden stuff j fruits, &c. catalogue
of, 383 to 385.
ditto, ditto, to keep, 258.
Garlic vinegar, 158.
Geese, a la royale, 1 \ 4.
boiled, 30.
choice of, 14.
giblets stewed, 68.
ditto, stewed with peas,69.
ditto, stewed plain, 68.
pie, 203.
ditto, Yorkshire, 204.
potted, 246.
ragood, 78.
(green) roasted, 41.
(stubble) ditto, 41.
sauce for, 147.
German fritters, 221.
sauce, 145.
Giblet curry, 132.
pie, 203 to 205.
ditto, Yorkshire, 204.
soup, 166.
Ginger, to keep, 226.
candied, 3 12.
wine, 332.
Gingerbread cakes, 274.
Glaize of herbs, 143.
for poultry, larding, &c. 142.
Glasses, to clean, 7.
Golden-pippins, pickled, 231.
preserved, 301.
Goose, sauce for, 147.
pie, 203.
ditto, Yorkshire, 204.
Gooseberries, to keep, 260.
jam, 288.
preserved like hops,'299.
ditto, red, 299.
ditto, whole, 298.
pudding, 1 ( J6.
tart, 266.
INDEX.
399
Gooseberries, vinegar, 226.
wine, 325.
pearl, wine, 325.
Grapes, to keep, 259.
pickled, 231.
preserved, 301.
wine, 327..
Grateful pudding, 196.
Grates, to take the rust out of, 5.
Gravy, for poultry, meat, and
steaks, 147.
soup, 161.
Grease on boards, to remove, 5.
on cloth, to remove, 8.
Green-caps, 274.
Green-gage plums, dried, 31 1.
preserved, 303.
Green-peas, to keep, 259.
Green-sauce, for green-geese and
ducklings, 148.
Gruel-water, 375.
Hachis mellee sauce, 147.
Haddocks, to broil, 52.
to dry and dress, 137.
souties of, 125.
Hams, beef, 252.
to boil, 28.
choice of, 13.
essence of, 148.
mutton, 252.
New England, 251.
pie, 202.
roasted, 39.
sandwich, 130.
veal, 2 j3.
Westmoreland, 252.
Westphalia, 252.
Yorkshire, 251.
Hard dumplins, 198.
Hares, choice of, 15.
Florendine, 121.
hashed, 70.
jugged, 70, 138.
pie, 206'.
potted, 247
roasted, 44.
soup, 165.
stuffing for, 40.
to truss, 25.
Harness, care of, 8.
Harricot of roots, 155.
Harslet, pigs, 138.
Hartshorn cream, 285.
jelly, 293.
Hashes and stews, 60 to 16.
sauce, 146.
Hasty fritters, 222.
pudding, flour, 188.
fine, 188.
Hen and chickens, in jelly, 293.
Herb pudding, 186.
eggs, bacon, and cauli-
flower, 137.
Herrings, baked, 48, 140.
boiled, 35.
broiled, 53.
choice of, 17.
dried and dressed, 138.
fried, 59.
and leek pie, 139.
pie, 217.
potted, 247.
Hodge podge, or English olio,
95, 138.
Hogs' puddings, with almonds,
255.
with currants, 256.
Hop -top soup, 171.
Housekeeper, duty of, 3.
Housemaid", duty of, 5.
Hunting pudding, 182.
Ice creams, 285.
Icing for cakes> 280.
tarts, 199.
Imperial water, 345.
Indian burdwan, 132.
pickle, 234.
Introduction, 1.
Irish stew, 140.
Iron, to prevent from rusting, 5.
Isinglass jelly, for the sick, 375.
Italian sauce, brown, 144.
white, 144.
Jellies, 290 to 297.
isinglass, 375.
savory, 296.
Jugged hare, 138.
Kidney bean?, to dress,-177.
400
INDEX.
Kidney beans, pickled, 229.
Ketchup, cockle, brown 159.
white, 159.
mushroom j 156.
oyster, brown, 159.
u-hite,l59.
walnut, 157,
Kitchen pepper, 156.
Lamb, to boil, 27.
care of joints of, 1 1 .
choice of, 11.
cutletsof,alamaintenon,lll
ditto, with cucumber sauce
109.
with mashed potatoes
110.
withsauce Robert, 110
with tendrons, 110.
fore-quarter, ragood,76.
ditto, roasted, 37.
head and appurtenances,! 10
ditto, with poivrade, 110.
hashed, and broiled
bones, 65.
minced, 65.
stewed, 63.
h ind-quar ter, marinated, 1 09 .
leg, braised, 108.
ditto, and jelly, 109.
loin, fried, 551
neck, ditto, 55.
ditto, glaized, 109.
pie, 200.
rumps and ears, brown, 111.
white, 111.
shoulder, braised, and sorrel
sauce, 109.
in epigram, 109
glaized, 109.
grilled, 109.
Lamb-stones, fricassee, 82.
Lampreys, fried, 59.
potted, 248.
roasted, 44.
sandwich, 130.
stewed, 74.
Larks roasted, 42.
ditto, a la fran9oise, 42.
trussed, 24.
Laundry maid, duty of, 6.
Lavender water, 543.
Lernon biscuits, 272.
cakes, 276.
cream, 289,
peel, candied, 312.
pickle, 157.
preserved, 304.
pudding, 165.
sauce, 148.
ditto, white, 148.
tarts, 2 14, 269.
water, 344.
wine, 326.
Lettuce and peas, stewed, 70.
Liaison for fri case es, 148.
Linen, to wash, 6.
Liqueur au citron, 338.
Liver'and lights, to dress, 137.
Livers, ragood, 79.
Lobsters, broiled, 5 1 .
choice of, 16.
curry, 132.
dressed to be eaten hot, 129.
in the shell, 129.
cold, 129.
pie, 217.
potted, 248.
roasted, 45.
sandwich, 130.
sauce, 152.
stewed, 74.
Lorraine soup, 164.
Love apple-sauce, 158.
ditto, mock, 158.
Maccaroni, to dress, 133.
soup, 166.
Maccaroons, 272.
Mace, to keep, 226.
Mackarel, boiled, 35.
broiled, 51.
collared, 243.
entree of, 126.
pickled, 137.
Malt liquors, 345 to 361.
spirits, to free from nauseous-
flavour, 338.
Mangoes, 230.
Marble, to take iron-moulds oui
of, 6.
Marbled veal, 243.
INDEX.
40 i
Marinate, 149.
Marketing, 9 to 19.
Marmalade apricot, 308.
orange, 308.
quince, 309.
transparent, 308.
Marrow-bones, to dress,. 139.
pudding, 182.
Matelot of carp, 128 to 129.
of perch, pike, and tench, 129.
Mead, cowslip, and walnut
wine, 333.
ditto, sack, 3 3. '3.
Meat, steaks, and poultry, gravy
for, 147.
to salt, 257.
sandwich, 131.
Mice, bait for, 3 82.
to destroy, 382.
Midcalf, 102.
Milk pancakes, 218.
soup, 172.
ditto, the Dutch way, 17 2.
water, 341.
Millet pudding, 189.
Mince pies, 202-
for Lent, 211.
Mistress of a family, hints to, 3.
Mock-brawn, 254.
turtle, 124.
ditto, without calf's head,
124.
Molasses, to free from its bad
flavour, 338.
Moonshine, 314.
Moor-game, potted, 246.
Mountain wine, 334.
Muffins, 269.
Mulberry wine, 328.
Mullets, boiled, 36.
broiled, 53.
fried, 59.
Muscles, pickled, 238.
pie, 217.
ragood, 80, 81.
soup, 174.
stewed, 72.
Mushrooms, broiled, 53.
fricassee, 86.
to keep, 261.
ketchup, 156.
Mushrooms, pickled, 235.
powder, 156.
* ragood, 79.
sauce, 150.
stewed, brown, 71.
ditto, white, 71.
Mustaid, to make, 158.
Mutt' n, basque of, 106.
breast, collared, 240.
broth, for the sick, 37 ^.
care of joints of, 10, 11.
choice of, 10.
chops, broiled, 49.
ditto, in disguise, 108.
curry of, 1 32.
essence of, for the sick, 372-
fricandeau, 82.
hams, 252.
haunch of, roasted, 38.
ditto,roasted with oysters,39.
hashed, plainly, 63.
ditto, savorily, 62.
kebobbed, 107.
leg, a la haul gout, 107. .
boiled with cauliflower
and spinage, 29.
ragood, 78.
roasted, with crab, 108.
with cockles, 108.
with lobster, 107.
with oysters, 107.
neck, harricot, 105.
pie, 202.
rumps and kidneys, 106.
a la braise, 106.
marinated, 107.
saddle, roasted, 38.
shoulder en epigram, 108.
ditto, surprised, 105.
s-teaks, marinated, 107.
Turkish way, 107.
Nasturti mis, pickled, 231.
Neats' toi gues, fricassee, 85.
stewed, 66. -
Nectarines, pickled, 231.
Norfolk dumplings, 197.
Noyau, Englith, 337.
Nuns' cakes, 21 3.
Nutmegs, to kee;i, 226.
DD
402 INDEX.
Oat cakes, 369.
pudding', 189.
Olio, or English hodge podge, 95
Olive pie, 213.
sauce, 149.
Omlettes, 133.
of asparagus, 133.
Onions, pickled, 236.
pie, 210.
sauce, 149.
soup, 170.
white, ditto, 171'.
Orarge cakes^v^.
chips, 31O.
cream, 287.
jelly, 250.
marmalade, 308.
peel, candied, 312.
preserved, S04.
pudding, 183.
tarts, 214, 267.
water, 344.
wine, 325.
Ornaments for the table, 3 13, 316.
Ox- cheek, 94.
a la mode, 139.
pie, 201.
soup, 167.
stewed, 136.
feet, fried, 54.
heart, roasted, 1 36.
Ox-palates, fricassee, 83.
ditto, pickled, 237.
stewed for made dishes
66.
piths, batter for frying, 56.
tongues, stewed, 62.
Oxford John, 112.
pudding, 183.
Oysters, choice of, 1 8.
escalope<l,75,
fried, 58.
ketchup, broxn, 159.
ditto, tzhite, 159.
ragood, 81.
sauce, for fish, 152.
ditto, ivtiite, for fish, 153
for steaks, 153.
soup, 174.
stewed, 75.
Pa!errr.o ^rint, 336.
anada, 375.
'ancakes and fritters, 218, 2'J4.
3 arfetto amore, 339.
'arsley, fried, 57.
pickled, 232.
s'auce, 150.
'arsnips, to dress, 179.
artridges, a la braise, 120.
boiled, 31.
ditto, for the sick, 374^
choice of, 15.
cold, sauce for, 151.
pie, to be eaten hot, 205,
ditto, ditto, cold, 209.
soup, 164.
stewed, 69.
'assing of butter, 143.
Bastes for pies, tarts, &c. 199 to
200.
currant and gooseberry, 3 10.
raspberry, 310.
Patties petits,268.
ditto, fine, 212.
savoury, 207.
Peaches, dried, 312.
pickled, 231.
preserved, 307.
Pearl barley, 194.
Peas,boiled, ditto Franeoise,179.
to keep, 259.
stewed for sauce, 7 1 .
soup, 169.
for winter, 169.
green and white, 16S.
stewed with lettuce, 71.
Pennyroyal pudding, 197.
water, 34-1.
Pepper, to keep, 226.
Peppermint water, 341.
Pepperpot, 134.
Perch, to boil, 35.
matelot of, 129.
water souchee, 75.
Persico, 339.
Pheasants, a la braise, 120.
to boil, 31.
choice of, 14.
roasted, 41.
stewed, 69.
to trus% 25v
'Pickled mackarei, 137,
INDEX.
403
tickled salmon, 239.
Pickling, 226 to 239. .
Pies, 199 to 217.
fish, saute for, with cream,
151.
ditto, without cream, 152.
meat, sauce for, 1 50.
Pig, au pere duillet, i 12,
baked, 47.
collared, 241.
roasted, 39.
feet and ears, 113.
ragood, 79.
soused, 257.
harslet, 138.
hind-quarter, roasted lamb-
fashion, 39.
pettitoes, 32, 113.
Pigeons, a la* daub, 1 1 8.
a la soussel, 1 19.
boiled, 31.
ditto, for the sick, 374.
broiled, 5O.
compote, 118.
fricassee, 84.
pie, 205.
poire, 118.
poqueton, 119.
potted, 240.
pupton, 119.
roasted, 42.
in savoury jelly, 118.
surtout, 1 1 8.
transmogrified, 119.
to truss, 23.
Pike, boiled, 34.
matelotof, 129.
potted, 248.
Pilchard and leek pie, 139.
Pine apples, preserved, 305.
Pippins, pickled, 231.
Piquant sauce, for cold meat,! 47 .
ditto, for hot meat, 146.
Pistachio cream, 284.
Plaice, boiled for the sick, 374.
fricassee, 87.
stewed, 76.
water souchee, 75.
Point du jour fritters, 222.
Poisons/culinary, 361 to 366,
Poivrade sauce, 146.
Pompadour cream, 288.
.Pontificato wine, 336.
Poppy water, 341.
Pork, care and choice of joints,! 2
broth, for the sick, 372.
chops, broiled, 50.
curry, 132.
fillet, with sauce robert, 1 12.
leg, a la boisseau, 112.
loin, a la Sicilienne, 113.
steaks, marinated, 107.
Portable soup, 161.
Portugal cakes, 275.
Potatoes, to boil, 176.
broiled, 53.
fried, 56.
pie, 210.
pudding, 190.
puree of, for sauce, 1^4.
sal lad, 141.
scalloped, 176.
Potting, 243 to 249.
Poultry, gravy for, 147.
Pound cake, 271.
Poultry, care of, 379 to 382.
Prawns, choice of, 18.
stewed, 76.
preserving, 298 to 3Q7,
Prune pudding, 184.
Prussian cakes, 275.
Puddings, 181 to 199.
Puffs and tarts, 265 to 269,
Puff-paste, 200.
Pulled chickens and fowl, 84.
turkey, 84.
Punch milk, and Norfolk, 337.
Puree of potatoes, 1 30.
Quails, to roast, 42.
Quaking pudding, 189-
Queen cakes, 279.
sauce, 146.
for chickens, 14"9.
Quince cakes, 276.
marmalade, 309.
preserved, 306.
pudding, 194.
Wine, 329.
Quin's fish sauce, 151.
meat sauce, 151,
Quire of paper, 32-9-
404
INDEX.
Rabbits, boiled, "3 1.
casserol, 122.
choice of, 15.
florendine, 121.
fricassee, brown, 85.
ditto, white, 85.
hashed, 70.
pie, to be eaten hot, 206.
roasted, 43.
ditto, hare fashion, 44.
stuffing for, 40.
surprised, 122.
to truss, 25.
Radish pods, pickled, 232.
Ragouts, 7 6 to 81.
Raisin wine, 327.
Ramequins, 133.
Raspberry, cream, 287.
dumplings, 197.
fritters, 220.
jam, red and white,2S9
paste, 309.
preserved, 299.
ditto, white, 300.
tarts, 266.
wine, 327.
Ratifia cakes, 278.
cream, 286.
pudding, 198.
Rats, bait for, 382.
to destroy, 382.
to drive away, 382.
Ravi got sauce, 146.
Reine a la sauce, 146.
Rhubarb tarts, 266.
Ribband jelly, 293. .
Rice, cakes, 272.
East India, mode of dress-
ing, 131.
fritters, 220.
pancakes, 218.
puddings, five different wavs
of dressing, 187.
soup, 172.
Roasted meat, sauce for, 150.
Roasting, 36 to 45.
Robert sauce, 146.
Roots, liarricot of, 155.
Rpots and vegetables, 175 to 181.
Hose water, 341.
wine, 331.
Royal sauce, brown, 1 44.
ditto, white, 144.
Ruffs and Rees, to roast, 43.
Russian sauce, for cold meat, 147.
Sack, English, 335.
mead wine, 333.
Saddles, to clean, 8.
Saffron cakes, 275.
Sago pudding, 1 85.
Salad, sauce for, 155.
Salmon, a la royale, 125.
baked, 47.
boiled, 32.
broiled, 52.
choice of, 18.
collared, 242.
entree of, 126.
fillets of, 1 27.
pickled, 239.
pie, 217.
potted, 249.
souties of, 125.
Salop, 375.
Salt-fish, pie, 216.
Salting and sousing, 250 to 258.
Samphire, pickled, 237-
Sandwich, anchovy, 130.
beef, 130.
Cheshire, 13 J.
cold meat, 131.
game, 130.
ham, 1 30.
lampreys, 130.
lobsters, 130.
shrimps, 130.
veal, 130.
Soutee soup, 170.
Saragossa wine, 335.
Saucepans, care of, 5.
Sauces, 141 to 159, viz.
Anchovy sauce, 153.
essence, 152.
Applesauce, 147.
Beef stock. 141.
ditto, second, 14-2. .
Benshamelle sauce, 144.
Ijntise, brown and white, 155.
Bread sauce, 148.
Browning, for gravy, made
dishes, soups, &c. 143.
INDEX.
405'
Butter melted, 144.
Camp vinegar, 157.
Carrot sauce, 154.
Celery sauce, brown, 153.
ditto, white, 154.
Chervil sauce, 154.
Chicken, cold, sauce, 151.
Cockle ketchup, brown, 159.
ditto, white, 159.
Consume,or essence of veal, 1 43
Coulis, 143.
Crab sauce, 1 52.
Cucumber sauce,. 154.
Curry powder, 15(3.
Ducks, wild, sauce for, 149.
Dutch sauce, 145.
Egg sauce, 151.
Eschalot sauce, 154.
vinegar, 158.
Fennel sauce, 152.
Fish sauce, keeping, 151.
ditto, Q,uin's, 151 .
stock, 142.
Flemish sauce, 145.
Forcemeat, cold, for balls, 156.
hot, or force, 155.
Game sauce, 151.
Garlic vinegar, 158.
German sauce, 145.
Glaize of herbs, 143.
of poultry, 142.
Goose sauce, 147.
Gravy for poultry, 147.
Green sauce, 148.
Hachis sauce, mellee, 147.
Ham, essence of, 148.
Harricot roots, 155.
Italian sauce, brown, 144.
ditto, ivhite, 144.
Jelly, clear savoury, 142,
Kitchen pepper, 157.
Lemon pickle, 157.
sauce, for fowls, 150.
ditto, white, 148.
Liaison, for fricassees, 148.
Lobster sauce, 152.
Marinate, 149.
Meat, roasted, gravy for, 147.
sauce for, 150.
Quin'sfor, 151.
Mushroom ketchup, 156.
powder, 156.
Mushroom sauce, 150.
Mustard, patent made, 158.
Olive sauce, 149.
Onion sauce, 149.,
Oyster ketchup, orown, 159.
ditto, white, 159.
sauce, for fish, 152.
ditto, white, 153.
for steaks, 153.
Partridges, cold, sauce for, 151.
Parsley sauce, 150.
Passing of butter, 143.
Piquant sauce, 146 to 147.
Pies, fish, sauce for, (with
cream), 151.
ditto, (without cream), 152.
meat, sauce for, 150.
Poivrade sauce, 146.
Poultry, gravy for, 147.
Puree of potatoes, 154.
Queen's sauce, of chicken,149.
Q,uin's sauce, for fish, 151.
ditto, for game, meat,
and poultry, 151.
Ravigot sauce, 146.
Royal sauce, brown, 144.
ditto, white, 144.
Russian sauce,for cold meat, 147
Salad sauce, 155.
Shrimp sauce, 153.
Sorrel sauce, 154. ,
Soy, English, 139.
Spanish sauce, 145.
Spices, 151.
Steaks, gravy for, 147.
Stock sauce, 150.
Sweet sauce, for venison, 149.
Tarragon sauce, 154.
Tomata sauce, 158.
ditto, mock, 158.
Tournay sauce, 145.
Truffle sauce, for turkeys, 149.
Turnip sauce, 154.
Turtle herbs, to preserve, 156.
Veal, cold, sauce for, 151.
stock, 142.
Walnut ketchup, 157.
Sausages, to make, 255.
Bologna, 255.
fried, 56.
Savoury jelly, 296 f
patties, 207.
INDEX.
Scotch barley broth, 163.
collops, 111.
Sea, necessary articles for per-
sons at, 37 6 to 37 9.
Seed cakes, 27 9.
ditto, water, for the sick, 374.
Shalot vinegar, 158.
Shoes, blacking for, 8.
Shrewsbury cakes, 275.
Shrimps, potted, 249.
sandwich, 130.
sauce, 153.
stewed, 7 6.
Shropshire pie, 212.
Shrub, currant, 337.
Sick persons, nourishment for,
37 1 to 376.
Silver, to clean and polish, 7.
Skate, choice of, 17.
entree of, 127.
fricassee, 87.
,soup, 175.
Skirrets, fricassee, 86.
fritters, 224.
Small birds in jelly, 121.
Smelts, choice of, 18.
fried, 57.
pickled, 238.
potted, 248.
Snipes, broiled, 33.
roasted, 44.
to truss, 24.
Snow, 315.
balls, 277.
Snow and cream, 288.
Solamagunday, 132.
Soles, a. la Franoise, 129.
boiled, 33.
ditto, Dutch way, 33;
choice of, 16.
entree of, 126.
, fillets, 126.
fricassee, 87.
fried, 57.
pie, 216.
stewed, 74.
Sorrel, to keep, 262.
Sorrel sauce, 154.
stewed, 7 1 .
Sour crout, to dress, 235.
to make, 234.
Soups and broth?, 159 to 175
Souties of carp, cod, eels, had-
docks, salmon, and tench, 125.
Soy, English, 139.
Spanish cream, 286.
sauce, 145.
Spices, 157.
Spinach, to keep, 268.
pudding, 187.
soup, 176.
stewed, 72.
Spirits of wine, 345.
Spoonful pudding, 193.
Sprats baked, 48, 140.
Steaks, gravy for, 147. See beef,
mutton, pork, and veal.
pudding, 181.
Steel, to prevent from rusting, 5.
bars, to remove the black
spots of, 5.
Steeple cream, 284.
Stews and hashes, 66 to 16*
Irish, 140.
Stock,- beef, 141.
ditto, second, 142.
fish, 142.
jelly, 142.
sauce, 150.
veal, 142.
ditto, clear brown, 142,
Stoves, to black, 6.
Strawberry jam, 289.
preserved, 305.
Stuffing for hares, rabbits, tur'
keys, and veal, 40.
Sturgeon to boil, 35.
choice of, 16.
Suet dumplings,withcrrantsl 97,
pudding, ditto veal, 191.
Sugar, preparations of, 263 to 265.
puffs, 268.
vinegar, 226.
Sunderland's, lady, pudding, 191.
Surfeit water, 243.
Sweet sauce, 149.
Sweetbreads, a la Dauphine, 100.
batter for frying, 56.
boiled, and broiled, 101 .
en erisori, and fried, 101.
fricassee, brown, 83.
clitto, white, 83.
and palate.s,fricassee, 83,
en gordiniere, 100.
INDEX.
407
Sweetbreads, larded, 100.
ragood, brown, 78.
ditto, white, IS.
roasted, 38.
Sweetmeat puddings, 183, 195.
Sycamore wine, 332.
Syllabubs, everlasting, 297.
lemon, 297.
solid, 2/6.
under the cow, 290.
vvhipt, 296.
Syringed fritters, 223.
Tables, to clean, 6.
Tansy fritters, 220.
pudding, 192.
Tarragon sauce, 154.
vinegar, 226.
Tarts and putfs, 265 to 269.
Tarte de moi, 214.
Tea cream, 286.
Tench, choice of, 17.
fried, 59.
matelot of, 128,129.
pie, 215.
potted, 249.
souties of, 125.
stewed, 73.
Tendroris, 1 10.
Thoruback, fricassee, 87.
soup, 175.
Tin covers, to clean, 6.
Tomala sauce, and mock do. 159.
Tongue boiled, 29.
potted, 243.
roasted, 38,95.
salted, 253.
stewed, 66.
Tournay sauce, 145.
Transparent marmalade, 308.
pudding, 190.
Treacle, to free from its dis-
agreeable flavour, 338.
water, Lady Monmouth's,342.
Trifle, 286.
Tripe, batter for frying, 5<J.
a la Kilkenny, 95.
fricassee, brown, 85.
ditto, white, 85.
fried, 57.
so used, 257.
Trout to boil, 33.
to broil, 51.
choice of, 17.
pie, 215.
potted, 24Q.
Truffle sauce for turkeys, 149.
Trussing, 19 to 26.
Turbot, a la Franoise, 129.
boiled, 34.
" choice of, 16.
fried, 57.
pie, 214.
Turkey, a la daub, 1 1 5.
boiled, 30.
choice of, 13.
hashed, 70.
in jelly, 291.
potted, 243.
pulled, 84.
roasted, 43.
sauce for, 149.
soased, 257.
ste\ved,ditto &nnr?z,67.
stuffing for, 40.
to truss, 20.
Turnip sauce, 154.
soup, 172.
wine, 330.
Turtle, 122.
fricandeau, 82.
herbs to preserve, 156.
mock ditto, without calf's
head, 124.
Udder roasted, 38.
Umbles of deer, to dress, 105.
Veal, a la bourgeois, 97.
boiled like sturgeon, 27.
breast, a 1'Angloise, 98.
a 1'ecossoise, 98.
a la flammande, 98.
in hodge-podge, 103.
a FItalienne, 98.
en porcupine, 96.
ragood,77.
broth for the sick, 372.
care and choice of joints, 1 1.
cold, fried, 55.
ditto, sauce for, 151.
collared, 240.
408
INDEX.
Veal, cutlets, fried, 55.
essence of, or consumee, 1 43.
fillet, with collops, 99-
ditto, bombarded, 99.
fricandeau, 81.
hams, 253.
hashed, 64.
knuckle, stewed, 63.
leg, and bacon disguised, 103.
loin, en epigram, 104.
ditto, roasted a la bensha-
melle, 97.
minced", 64.
" ditto, for the sick. 372.
neck, a 1'Espagnol, 97.
braised with oyster
sauce, 98.
larded, 97. ragood, 77.
olives, 99.
pie, 200.
ditto, savoury, 201, 202.
pillow, 104.
potted, 243.
sandwich, 130.
shoulder, a la haut gout, 96.
ditto, a la Piedmontoise, 103.
stock, 142.
stove, 105.
stuffing, 40.
Venison, care of joints, 13.
choice of, 13.
collared, 241.
fried, 54.
haunch, boiled, 28.
ditto, roasted, 38.
hashed, 66.
neck, boiled, 23.
pasty, 202.
potted, 247.
Vermicelli pudding, 187.-
soup, 165.
Vine-leaf fritters, 223.
Vinegar, to make, 226.
camp, 157.
garlic, and eschalot; 158.
gooseberry, 226.
elder, 226.
sugar, 226.
Vinegar tarragon, 226.
Yafers, 269.
Valnuts, to keep, 260.
ketchup, 157.
mead, 333.
pickled, black, 228.
greew/229.
olive colour, 229.
white, 228.
preserved, black, green,
and white, 302.
water, 343.
. wine, 328. -
Watergruel for the sick, 375.
Water souchee, 75.
Waters, cordial, 339 to 345.
Weavers, to broil, 50.
Wheat-ears, to truss, 24.
Whigs, 279.
Whipt cream, 287.
White fritters, 219.
pear plums, 194.
puddings 124.
soup, 1 62.
Whitings broiled, 52.
to dry and dress, 137.
fillets of, 128.
Wild ducks, to hash, 70.
sauce, 149.
to truss, 23.
Wines, home made, 324 to 338.
spirits of, 345.
Woodcocks, to boil, 32.
choice of, 14.
pie, 207.
potted, 246.
roasted, 44.
stewed, 69.
to truss, 24.
Yeast, to make, 370.
to preserve, 370.
dumplings, 197.
Yorkshire Christmas pie, 212.
giblet pie, 204.
goose ditto, 204. >
pudding, 182.
owland, Printers, Oofwell Street, London
'.
