p- . CENT^
AS
MACHINERY'S
SHOP RECEIPTS AND
FORMULAS
412 Shop Receipts and Formulas
Selected from MACHINERY
Classified and Revised
Second Edition
CONTENTS
Blue-Printing and Drafting-Room Formulas - - - 3
Cements for Metals, Emery, Leather, Glass, Marble, etc. - 7
Etching Fluids --------- ly
Hardening and Tempering, Case-Hardening, etc. - - l8
Polishing Brass, Nickel and Steel - - - - - 25
Producing Colors and Coatings on Metals - - - 26
Rust Removers and Preventatives - - - - " 3^
Solders and Soldering Acids ------ 37
Lubricants for Bearings, Cutting Tools, etc. - - - 41
Varnishes, Paints and Whitewashes - - - - 47
Eye Washes, Salves, Cleaning Compounds, etc. - - - 50
Miscellaneous Useful Receipts ----- 52
Index -------_-- qg
Copyright, 1911, The Industrial Press, Publishers of Machinery
49-55 Lafayette Street, New York City
THE GETTY CENTER
LIBRARV
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
BLUE-PRINT WRITING FLUIDS
Marking- fluid for Blue-prints
The following receipt for marking fluid
for blueprints nas given me satisfaction.
The fluid Is composed of potassium ox-
alate, 1 ounce ; gum arable, 1 dram (60
grains) ; water, 6 ounces ; cobalt-blue to
colo:-. William H. David.
Staten Island, N. Y.
White Writing^ Fluid for Blue-prints
A fluid which I find is as good as any I
liave ever used for writing white on blue-
prints is made of equal parts of sal-soda
and water. Another fluid, not as good, is
made by mixing equal parts of borax and
water. Both these fluids must be used
with a fine-pointed pen ; a pen with a blunt
point will not work well.
Allegheny, Pa. C. W. Morrison.
White and Red Solutions for Writing on
Blue-prints
I find the following means convenient for
making a solution for marking white lines
on blue-prints. I add to a small bottle
of water enough washing soda to make a
clear white line, then I add enough gum
arable to it to prevent spreading and mak-
ing ragged lines. To make red lines I dip
the pen in red ink and then add a little of
the solution by means of the quill.
Cleveland, O. Ed. H. Remde.
Solution for Writing- on Blue-prints
A solution for marking on blue-prints,
■which I have tried with comparatively
good success. Is a very thick lime water.
Have a good deal more lime than will dis-
solve, and shake up the bottle just before
using, and it will not spread. Possibly
this solution could be colored w}th red
ink. but as I prefer the white I have never
tried it. G. V.
Bed Writing- Fluid for Blue-prints
For red writing on blue-prints, I take
a piece of common washing soda the size of
an ordinary bean and dissolve It in four
tablespoonfuls of ordinary red writing ink
to make a red fluid. The only way I know
of to keep It from spreading too much is to
use a fine pen to apply it with, and write
fast so as not to allow to much of the
fluid to get on the paper, for it will con-
tinue eating until it is dry. H. E. W.
Colored Inks for Blue-prints
In order to make red and white solutions
for writing on blue-prints, dissolve a crystal
of oxalate of potash about the size of a pea
in an Ink bottle full of water. This will
give white lines on blue-prints ; other potash
solutions are yellowish. If this shows a
tendency to run, owing to too great
strength, add more water and thicken
slightly with mucilage. Mix this with red
or any other colored Ink about half and
half and writing may be done on the blue-
prints in colors corresponding to the inks
used. W. H. Sargent.
St. Johnsbury, Vt.
To Slake Chang-es and Corrections on
Blue-prints
Sometimes I find it necessary to make
changes and corrections on blue-prints ; to
do this I use a solution of sodium carbonate
and water, with a little red ink mixed in.
This gives a very pleasing pink color to
the changes which at the same time Is very
noticeable. The amount of sodium carbon-
ate used depends upon the surface of the
bluo-print paper as some coarse-grained pa-
pers will look better if less soda is used and
vice versa. However, the amount of pow-
dered soda held on a five-cent piece dis-
solved In a bottle of water (Higgins ink
bottle) gives very good results.
Sharon, Pa. R. F. Kiefer.
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Retouchingf Blue-prints
An excellent solution for retouching or
marking in details on blue-prints can be
prepared according to the following re-
ceipt. The solution consists of 75 grains
of potassium oxalate dissolved in 1 ounce
of water. If the solution is too thin and
watery, it may be thickened by adding
some kind cf a gum preparation. It can
be applied with a pen, as ordinary ink.
The blue background Is removed very rap-
idly by the solution, but it is Important
that the print be immediately washed, aa
the solution has a tendency to soak into
the pores of the paper and blur the lines.
Olney, 111. T. E. O'Donnei.l.
SOLUTIONS FOR PREPARING BLUE-PRINTING PAPER
Blue-printing- Pormiila
I have used the following receipt for blue-
prints with much satisfaction. The same
formula may be applied for postal cards on
which it is desired to print landscapes or
similar views. Jfake a solution as follows :
Water, 3 ounces ; ammonia citrate of iron,
300 grains ; oxalate of potash, 75 grains.
Dry in the dark, print and then develop in
the following : Water, 3 ounces ; nitrate of
silver, 15 grains ; citrate of soda, 150
grains. Add ammonia to dissolve the pre-
cipitate, and acetic acid until slightly acid.
Wash slightly and dry. I have found this
to make a better blue-print in every detail
than any other of the various known re-
ceipts. Robert B. Otis.
Orange, Conn.
Chemicals for Blue-prints
To make blue-print paper use citrate of
Iron and ammonia, 1% ounce dissolved in
S ounces of water, and red prussiate of
potash, 114 ounce, dissolved also In 8
ounces of water. Keep in separate bottles
until wanted for use. When wanted for
use, measure equal quantities from each of
the above bottles. Shake so as to mix it
well. It is then ready for putting on the
paper. When the two are poured together,
tftn mixture must be kept away from white
light and should be applied la a room il-
luminated with a ruby light only. The
paper must be dried in this room and kept
in the dark until used. One ounce of
mixed chemical will cover about 4 square
feet of paper. David Melville.
Detroit, Mich.
Practical Formula for Sensitizing Blue-
print Paper
To prepare the blue-print solutions, dis-
solve 3% ounces of ammonia citrate of
iron, in 18 ounces of water, and put in a
bottle. Then dissolve 2% ounces of red
prussiate of potash in 18 ounces of water,
and put in another bottle. When ready
to prepare the paper, have the sheets piled
one on top of the other, coating but one at
a time. Darken the room, and light a ruby
lamp. Now, mix thoroughly equal parts
of both solutions and apply the mixture
with a sponge in long parallel sweeps, keep-
ing the application as even as possible.
Hang the paper in the dark room to dry
and keep it dark until used. Any of the
mixture left, from sensitizing the paper,
should be thrown away, as it deteriorates
rapidly.
Often, in making blue-prints by sunlight.
the exposure is too long, and when the
frame is opened the white lines of the
print are faint or obscure. Usually these
prints are relegated to the waste basket
but if, after being washed as usual, they
are sponged with a weak solution of chlo-
ride of iron, their reclamation is almost cer-
tain. When the lines reappear the print
should be thoroughly rinsed in clear water.
Often a drawing, from which prints
have already been made, requires changing.
The blue-prints then on hand are worthless,
requiring more time to correct than it
would take to make a new print. An eco-
nomical way of using the worthless prints
is to cancel the drawing already thereon,
sensitize the reverse side, and use the paper
again. Julian Day Page.
Youngstown, Ohio.
METHODS OF TREATING BLUE- AND BROWN-PRINTS
To Make Vandyke Prints more
Transparent
To a pint of best grade gasoline, add as
much parafine as the gasoline will readily
dissolve and spread this solution evenly
over the print with a soft brush, wipe dry
with a piece of white cotton rag and print
In the usual manner. Vandyke prints
treated In this way will require only about
two-thirds the usuaJ time to print.
Meadville, Pa. E. W. Bowen.
BLUE-PRINTING
JVIixtiire for Clearing' Blue-prints
It very often occurs, when making blue-
prints, tliat a print becomes burned by
over-exposure and the lines do not show up
well. These may be brought out more
clearly by pouring bi-chromate of potash,
dissolved in water, over the print while it
is in the sink. The print must be washed
again with water before it is hung up to
dry. Herbert C. Sxow.
Cleveland, O.
Waterproofing- Blue-prints
To prevent the annoyance occasioned by
having blue-prints discolored by rain, drip-
pings of mines or other similar exposures,
a very simple method of waterproofing
them may be effected as follows. The
waterproofing medium is refined parafiQne.
To apply. Immerse in the melted paraflSne,
until saturated, a number of pieces of an
absorbent cloth at least a foot square.
When withdrawn and allowed to drain for
a few moments they are ready for use.
Lay one of the saturated sheets on a
smooth surface, place the dry print on top
of It, and then lay a second sheet of the
saturated cloth over it. Iron the top cloth
with a moderately hot fiat-iron. The paper
Immediately absorbs the paraflBne until
saturated, becomes translucent and highly
waterproofed, owing to the smooth glossy
surface, which is the result of the ironing.
The lines of the print will be intensified,
and the paper left perfectly smooth and
easy to handle. T. E. O'Donnell.
To Tone Blue-prints
After washing the blue-print in the usual
manner, immerse it for half a minute or
less in a solution made by dissolving a
teaspoonful of potassium bichromate crystals
In one-half gallon clear water. Then rinse
the print in clear water and hang It up to
dry. A galvanized iron or japanned tray
may be used for the solution. Prints may
be much overprinted and yet give beautiful
clear whites and extremely deep blues,
easily seen by the workman and a delight
to the directors, the latter especially be-
cause the solution is quite inexpensive, and
can be used over and over again until an
objectionable precipitate forms. I have
used this toning with Keuffel & Esser's
paper and also with a number of local
brands of blue-printing paper, all of which
gave such fine results that we specify "all
blue-prints must be toned."
Denver, Col. F. J. Schaufelberger.
Spots on Blue-prints
We were bothered for some time wich
peculiar blue spots on our tracings, which
were next to impossible to remove, and
which caused spotted blue-prints. The
office receiving these prints finally requested
us to remove the ink blots from our trac-
ings. The trouble was finally located, in
connection with the blue-printing. The one
doing this work had a habit of making one
print, washing it at once to prove the
color, and then printing the entire lot.
Now after washing the first print, he did
not thoroughly dry his hands, and on plac-
ing the next print, the paper was moist-
ened and the exposure "fixed" some of the
blue clear through the tracing cloth.
Howard D. Yoder.
Solution for Cleaningr Blue-prints
Dissolve enough bichromate of potash in
water to color the water a deep orange — or
about one tablespoonful to eight gallons of
water. Wash the blue-prints in clear water
before and after using the solution.
Chambersburg, Pa. E. Ray Croft.
How to Save Under-printed or Over-
printed Contact Copies
Blue-prints are never so over-printed that
they cannot be reduced to a suitable tone by
a slightly alkaline bath of borax, bicarbon-
ate of soda, washing soda, or ammonia.
Blackline, or "ink" process paper, is usually
lost if slightly over-printed ; if under-print-
ed it develops too gray all over its surface
to be of use for tracing or for reproduction
photographically. In the winter-time, when
prints from thick paper drawings are apt
to be under-exposed, I treated a number of
such apparently useless prints with a lo-
tion for throat troubles — the first "tonic"
available — with excellent results, the invisi-
ble lines developing out a strong black on
a gray ground. The mixture was tannin-
and-glycerine solution to about 20 parts of
water. When using this solution It is safer
to under-print rather than to over-print,
with the resulting weak or broken lines.
Sepia prints, when much over-printed,
can be saved by washing in a very weak
solution of hyposulphite of soda which
bleaches away the image before It can be-
come fixed by the usual preliminary wash
in plain water. The hyposulphite solution
is so energetic that it will bleach down the
darkest of sepia prints if not previously
put in water. Purple tones are obtained,
after washing, by treating with any gold-
toning bath. Charles R. King.
Staple Hill Park. Bristol, England.
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Bleach Blue prints
It is occasionally necessary to bleach
blue-prints when it is desired to make
drawings for photographic reproduction.
Blue-prints are sometimes so faded that it
is impossible to trace them, in which case
I ink the lines of the blue-print and then
bleach out the blue, leaving the black lines
on the white ground. The process of
bleaching is extremely simple and is one
that I developed about eight years ago. I
had found it impossible to make tracings
from blue-prints which were very much
faded, or which had been over- or under-
printed. After experimenting for a month
or so, trying different preparations, I final-
ly hit on the following combination :
1 gallon lukewarm water and % pound
bicarbonate of soda. Of course this pro-
portion is not exact, and has to be used
with caution ; when in doubt prepare a
little solution and make a test of a small
piece before hand as it will be found that
some prints will not bleach as others do.
Do not allow the inked-in prints to re-
main in the solution any longer than Is
absolutely necessary, for no matter how
waterproof the ink may be it is impossible
to keep It from running a little. Freshly
made blue-prints, that is, those not more
than a few months old, work best. As
soon as the print is bleached take it out
of the solution by the corners, being care-
ful not to touch the ink work. Too much
soda Is harmful as it deposits white dust
on the lines. This, however, can be re-
moved by re-immersion in clean water.
New York. Fred Dibelids.
When cool, add sulphuric acid in small
quantities until blue litmus paper turns
slightly red, then add a few drops of am-
monia until the alkaline reaction appears,
and red litmus paper turns blue. Then
add to the solution 154 grains of red crude
gum catechu. Allow this to dissolve, with
occasional stirring. The solution will keep
indefinitely. After the print has been
washed in the usual way, immerse it in
the above bath for a period of a minute
or so longer than necessary to obtain the
desired tone. An olive brown or a dark
brown is the result. John B. Sperry.
Aurora, 111.
BrowH'prints
The following solution will change the
color of blue-print paper to a dark brown :
Borax, 2% ounces; hot water, .38 ounces.
To Save Burned or Over-exposed Blue-
prints
Blue-prints that have become burned or
over-exposed, may be saved by the use of
the following formula : Make a saturated
solution of bichromate of potash, and keep
a supply on hand in the blue-print room.
If a print becomes over-exposed, wash it in
the usual manner in a tank or tray of
water, after which place it in another tray
which should contain a mixture of two
parts water to one part of the saturated
solution of bichromate of potash. Allow
the print to remain in the tray containing
the solution until it shows a deep blue color
and the white lines are clearly defined
(which requires but a few seconds), after
which the print should be thoroughly
washed and rinsed in clear water. The pro-
portion of the bichromate of potash may
be increased or diminished as the occa-
sion requires. This solution also acts
equally as well when applied to white-
prints made from vandyke negatives. Prints,
as well as expense and time, may be saved
by the use of the above solution.
Meadville, Pa. J. C. Hassett.
MISCELLANEOUS DRAFTING-ROOM RECEIPTS
To Preserve Reference Tables
Reference tables are very convenient to
use but soon get dirty and torn. To pre-
v^ent this pour some lacquer In a shallow
tray and dip the paper Into it and hang
It up to drain and dry. This not only
makes the paper dirt-proof but toughens it
as well. Milton Borgess.
Cleveland, O.
To Clean Tracings
Tracings that have become badly soiled
from handling or other causes, may be
easily cleaned by thoroughly sponging the
cloth with benzine or gasoline. Kerosene
will serve the purpose, but It is not so
good. It does not injure the cloth in the
least, but on the other hand has the efifect
of re-establishing the color of a much used
tracing, and will remove pencil marks per-
fectly. When some compound has been
used on the tracing to remove the ink lines,
leaving a sticky and gummy surface, ben-
zine will quickly clean and dry the affected
portion, so that it can be worked over
again. T. E. O'Donnell.
Olney, 111.
CEMENTS FOR METALS
Chalk Preparation for Tracing's
Mix thoroughly one pound of pulverized
chalk with one-quarter pound of borax.
Rub some of this mixture into a chamois
skin, and rub the tracing carefully with
this. This preparation is superior to pure
chalk. Rex McKeb.
Joliet, 111.
To Write with Color on a Drawing that
is to he Varnished
When it is required to color or to write
with color on a drawing or blue-print which
has to be varnished later, mix a little
Isinglass with the color ; this will prevent
the color running when the size is applied.
Manchester, Eng. H. T. Millar.
To Remove Grease Stains from Papers,
Drawings, etc.
Place sheets of blotting paper over and
under the stained page, to protect the oth-
ers. Lay powdered magnesia on the stain
and under it ; then press over the blotting
paper with a hot iron. When the powder
is shaken off, the stain is gone.
New Britain, Conn. F. L. Engkl.
To Write on Celluloid
To write on triangles or other instru-
ments made of celluloid use anhydrous
acetic acid. The writing will appear dull
on the glossy surface. If colored writing
Is desired, add some coloring matter to the
acid. J. M. Menequs.
Los Angeles, Cal.
Ideal IVIethod of Freparingr Tracing
Cloth
It is a well-known fact that neither the
glossy nor the dull side of tracing cloth
takes Ink readily without being prepared in
some manner. The usual way Is to sprinkle
powdered soapstone or chalk on the tracing
cloth and rub it over the surface with a
piece of cloth. This helps somewhat, but
not enough to be perfectly satisfactory.
After trying various methods, I have found
a way which gives excellent results, and
that is, to sprinkle the powdered soapstone
on the cloth as usual, but rub it in with a
blotter instead of a piece of cloth, using a
circular motion and considerable pressure ;
of course It is necessary to brush away the
superfluous powder. The use of a blotter has
an abraiding effect and it is just harsh
enough to give the cloth a surface which will
take the ink readily and still leave the pens
unharmed. I find it to be an advantage to
repeat this process each morning in case
the tracing is not finished the day it Is
started ; the rubbing of the blotter over the
lines already inked in does absolutely no
harm and if anything makes the lines more
dense. A trial of this method will convince
the draftsman that the cloth will take the
ink better than by any other method.
Chicago, 111. Robert A. Lachmann.
To Prevent Drawing Titles from Smear-
ing' or Ruhhing Off
A great many of our railroads and large
manufacturing concerns throughout the
country are using small printing presses,
for the purpose of putting titles on their
drawings. It is titles put on in this man-
ner with tracing cloth printing ink to
which I refer. After the title has been
printed on the drawing, lacquer it over
with a very thjn coat of French varnish
(such as is used by artists). This can be
best applied with a chisel-shaped camel's
hair brush, equal in width to the height of
the letters in the title. A good substitute
where French varnish cannot be obtained
is made by cutting 14 ounce of the best
grade of white shellac in y^ pint of alco-
hol. As both of these varnishes dry very
quickly, the tracings may be used soon after
the titles are put on. E. W. Bowen.
Meadville, Pa
CEMENTS FOR METALS
To Join Together Two Pieces of Iron
that cannot be Heated
I have used a compound consisting of
sulphur, 6 parts ; white lead, 6 parts ; and
borax, 1 part. These substances are dis-
solved In concentrated sulphuric acid, and
the surfaces to be united covered with the
mastic, and pressed very hard together. In
about six days the two pieces are so well
joined that even hammering will not part
them. J. M. Menegus.
Los Angeles, Cal. *
Cement for Metals
A very good cement that 1 have used for
cementing metal parts consists of the fol-
lowing Ingredients: 214 parts zinc oxide; 1
part zinc chloride ; 5 parts pulverized lime-
stone, slag, etc. Mix to a thick paste, using
water. If the cement is wanted to set
slowly, add 1 part of zinc sulphate Instead
of 1 part of zinc chloride. The adhesive
power of this cement can be increased by
adding 2 per cent of ferrous sulphate to
the whole. Herbeut S. Gladfelteb.
Desloge, Mo.
8
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Bust Joint
Mix 10 parts of iron filings, 3 parts
chloride of lime with enough water to make
a paste. Apply this mixture to the joint,
bolt firmly together and in twelve hours it
will be set so that the iron will break sooner
than the cement. David Melville.
Detroit, Mich.
Cement to Resist VTbite Heat
A cement that will resist white heat may
be made of pulverized fire clay, 4 parts ;
plumbago, 1 part ; iron filings or borings
free from oxide, 2 parts ; peroxide of man-
ganese, 1 part ; borax, 14 part, and sea
salt, % part. Mix these to a thick paste
and use immediately. Heat up gradually
when first using. W. R. Bowers.
Birmingham, Eng.
Iron Cement
The following iron cement, if properly
prepared and applied, will unite broken iron
parts very strongly, and may be found use-
ful oftentimes for repairing broken machine
parts of comparative unimportance. Mix
equal parts of sulphur and white lead with
about one-sixth part of borax and incor-
porate the three together thoroughly. When
ready to use the mixture wet it with
strong sulphuric acid and spread a thin
layer of the cement on the joint to be
united. Clamp together for five days when
the joint should be dry and sound.
St. Joseph, Mich. J. W. Wilford.
Zinc Dust Cement
A putty prepared with zinc dust does not
have the drawbacks of those prepared with
white lead or red lead. The oil used is
that known as wood oil ; this oil is ex-
tracted from a tree which grows in China
and Cochin-China, known as the oil tree or
Eloecocca Vernica. This putty possesses
the peculiar property of hardening under
the action of a very moderate heat, such
as that which exists in steam boilers. With
linseed oil, the hardening takes place at a
higher temperature, but it is not as thor-
ough, and a partial oxidation takes place,
and it is accompanied by the production of
carbonic-dioxid. With wood oil, the hard-
ening is entire and rapid, and a rearrange-
ment of molecules takes place without any
chemical change ; the physical constitution
alone appears to be modified. The harden-
ing of zinc dust cement is quite different
from that prepared with white or red lead,
as the action of oxygen is not required.
Heating to 150 degrees centigrade is suffi-
cient to complete the action, and at 110
degrees it Is completed In six hours. This
cement will keep for an indefinite period
after hardening. Alfred Lanq.
Pittsburg, Pa.
To Unite Metals of any Kind
The following mastic may be used to
unite metals of any kind. It becomes very
hard. First, mix together well 4 parts of
iron filings with 4 parts of chloride of am-
monia. Then dissolve 100 parts of arable
gum and 20 parts of sugar in 100 parts of
water, and add 1% part of nitric acid.
Boil this, and put the first mixture into it.
When the mastic has to be used, mix one
part of it with ten parts of new Iron filings
and some water, and heat It until a paste
is formed, which Is applied well heated to
the pieces to be united.
Los Angeles, Cal. J. M. Menegds.
Cement for Iiocomotive Front-ends
A cement that was commonly used on
the Fallbrook R. R. locomotive front-ends
some years ago to stop all cracks and
leaks, was composed of litharge mixed with
sufficient boiled linseed oil to make a stiff
paste. Into this paste was thoroughly
mixed about one-third bulk of old rope cut
into short lengths — about one inch — and
separated into its constituent fibers. This
cement hardens like iron and the rope
fibers hold it together while drying and
also prevent squeezing out when the front-
end casting is bolted to the smokebox. This
cement will be found useful in many other
places where it will be subjected to heat.
M. E. Canek.
CEMENTS AND FILLING FOR CAST IRON
Filling- for Cast Iron
One-quarter tumbler full of japan dryer,
1% ounce finely ground dry white lead.
Mix and add 1 quart of finishing japan.
Stir in dry rotten stone until mixture Is a
thick paste. E. H. McClintock.
West Somervllle, Mass.
Iron Cement
For plugging holes in castings a good ce-
ment is made from 80 parts of sifted cast-
iron turnings, 2 parts of powdered sal-
ammoniac, and 1 part sulphur, made into
thick paste with water fresh for use.
Detroit, Mich. David Melville.
CEMENTS FOR CAST IRON
9
rilling- for Blowholes in Cast Iron
One part red lead, and 1% part litharge.
Mix with glycerine to consistency de-
sired. E. H. McClintock.
West Somerville, Mass.
Cement for Iron
Six parts of white lead, 6 of sulphur and
1 of borax, thoroughly mixed and wetted
with strong sulphuric acid makes a very
strong cement. David Melville.
Detroit, Mich.
Cement for Cast Iron
Mix 1 pound cast-iron filings, 1 ounce
sulphur, and 2 ounces sal-ammoniac. Mix
thoroughly and keep dry. When using, mix
one part of this composition with twenty
parts clear filings and some very fine sand.
Make into s stiff paste with water.
E. H. McClintock.
West Somerville, Mass.
Mixture for Making- a Porous Casting
Air- and Water-tig-ht
To make a porous casting air- and
water-tight prepare a saturated solution of
copper sulphate, mix with it an equal quan-
tity of commercial nitric acid. Dip the
casting into the solution, or pour it over
the casting on all sides and let stand for
a few hours. L. S. Burbank
Worcester, Mass.
Alloy for Filling Holes in Cast Iron
Melt together 9 parts of lead, 2 parts of
antimony, and 1 part of bismuth, and pour
this mixture Into the hole, first somewhat
warming the hole. This alloy possesses the
quality of expanding when cooling, hence
becomes solid In the holes when cold.
Dubuque, Iowa. E. J. Bucket.
To Close Cracks in Castings
The following mixture has been success-
fully used in filling cracks in gas engine
water jackets, and is similar in nature to
the ordinary rust joint mixtures. Prepare
a dry mixture of 17 parts of cast-iron
filings, 2 parts of sal-ammoniac, and 1 part
of flour of sulphur ; add twenty times the
weight of new iron filings, put in a mortar
and add water so as to obtain a paste.
This paste is applied to the crack, and in
a short time becomes as hard as the metal
itself. M. E. Canek.
Cement for Cast Iron
To make a cement for cast iron take 16
ounces cast-iron borings ; 2 ounces, sal-am-
moniac ; and 1 ounce, sulphur. Mix well
and keep dry. When ready to use take one
part of this powder to 20 parts of cast-iron
borings and mix thoroughly Into a stiff
paste, adding a little water. A. A.
Cement for Holes and Cracks in
Castings
A cement for holes and cracks in castings
Is made of 6 parts red lead, ground in oil ;
3 parts white lead, ground in oil ; 2 parts
black oxide of manganese ; 1 part silicate
of soda ; % part litharge. Mis and use as
a putty. To preserve from hardening, put
in a vessel and cover with water.
Syracuse, N. Y. C. E. Mink.
Water and Oilproof Cement
Some time ago I built a gasoline engine
and boat, but when I put the rig on the
river I found the engine would run for a
short while and then stop. I found that
the cause was some sand holes In the cylin-
der which admitted water Into the bore
of the cylinder. To stop the holes I used
litharge and glycerine mixed into a stiff
paste. The cement soon got as hard as
iron and I had no further trouble from
leakage. I have found that this cement is
better than anything else I have ever tried.
Dayton, Ky. Albert Elmigek.
Amalgam for Stopping Leaks, Blowholes,
etc.
A small hole or crack that Is diflScult to
get at or that cannot well be soldered may
be closed with an amalgam composed of
zinc, 66 parts ; tin, 44 parts ; and suf-
ficient mercury to make a stiff dough. The
zinc and tin are to be melted together and
afterwards granulated. The latter may be
done by slowly pouring the melted mixture
through a strong stream of water from
a hose nozzle ; or the filings may be used.
The filings or granules are kneaded until
an amalgam of the consistency of stiff
dough Is formed with the mercury. Excess
of mercury should be squeezed out. The
plastic mass Is then forced into the open-
ing and allowed to harden for an hour or
two. It can then be filed and scraped like
the metal Itself. Only as much amalgam
should be mixed as is required for Imme-
diate use. O. M. Becker.
Chicago, 111.
10
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Mixture for Pliig^gfing- Holes in Cast Iron
A good mixture for plugging blowholes
in cast iron is made of sulphur, cast-iron
borings sifted very fine, and graphite.
Melt the sulphur in an iron ladle and stir
in as much of the sifted borings as the
sulphur will allow, not making it too thick
to pour readily. Add a small quantity of
the graphite, say a tablespoonful to a
quart of the mixture. Pour into the holes
while hot, and after it is cool smooth off
with a file. When holes are filled with
this mixture on surfaces to be machined a
finishing cut can be taken over it which
will obliterate the holes. R. B. Casey.
Schenectady, N. Y.
Tiller for Defective Castings
I recommend the following formula for
filling defects and blowholes in castings. I
have been using this receipt for years and
it is the result of many experiments: l^^
part litharge; 2% parts dextrine; 4 parts
Iron borings or turnings ca,refully sifted.
Mix the parts well, add water until the
mass is of about the consistency of mortar.
With a putty knife or other instrument
fill the defective parts and press into every
crevice. Let it "set" for 48 hours, when
it can be chipped, planed, bored or turned
like the casting itself. Color with lamp-
black to suit the shade of casting.
To facilitate the measuring of parts, use
a box of three divisions, made to the fol-
lowing dimensions : The divisions for bor-
ings should be 4 inches long, 2 inches wide,
1 inch deep ; for dextrine, 4 inches long,
1 % inch wide, 1 inch deep ; for litharge,
4 inches long, % inch wide, 1 inch deep.
York, Pa. W. W. Birnstock.
CEMENTS FOR PIPE JOINTS
steam Pipe Cement
Mix equal parts, by weight, of oxide of
manganese, pipe clay and white lead,
ground with linseed oil varnish.
E. H. McClintock.
West Somerville, Mass.
Substitute for Red Lead Applied to
Joints
As a substitute for, or in the absence of
red lead, use varnish on air or steam pipe
joints. It will dry very hard and last for
a long time. Donald A. Hampson.
Middletown, N. Y.
Cement for Steam Pipe Joint
A good cement for use in making steam
pipe joints is made in the following man-
ner. Grind and wash in clean cold water
15 parts of chalk and 50 parts of graphite.
Mix the two together thoroughly and allow
to dry. When dry regrind to a fine pow-
der, to which add 20 parts of ground
litharge and mix to a stiff paste with 15
parts of boiled linseed oil. The prepara-
tion may be set aside for future use, as it
will remain plastic for a long time if placed
in a cool place. It is applied to the joint
packing as any ordinary cement and will
be found to last a very long time.
Olney, 111. T. E. O'Donnell.
Impermeable Cement for Pipes
To make an impermeable cement for
steam, air and gas pipes mix thoroughly
powdered graphite, 6 parts ; slaked lime,
3 parts ; sulphur, S parts, and boiled oil,
7 parts. The mixture must be thoroughly
incorporated by protracted kneading until
it is perfectly smooth and free from lumps.
Dayton, Ohio. O. E. Voris.
To Make a Water-tight Joint
Take ordinary white lead, and mix
enough powdered red lead with it to make
a paste the consistency of putty. Spread
this mixture on the joint, and when it
hardens, the joint will be perfectly water-
tight. We used this mixture on flanges on
a standpipe, after we had tried all kinds
of rubber gaskets without success. The
mixture hardened and made a tight joint,
never leaking afterward. J. D. Page.
Youngstown, Ohio.
Steam-tight Joints
Take white lead ground in oil, add to it
as much black oxide of manganese as pos-
sible and a small portion of litharge.
Knead with the hand, dusting the board
with red lead. The mass is made into a
small roll and screwed or pressed into
position, the joint being first slightly oiled
with linseed oil. R. E. Verse.
Cement for Steam and Water Pipes
A good cement for joints on steam or
water pipes is made as follows : 10 pounds
fine yellow ochre ; 4 pounds ground lith-
arge; 4 pounds paris white (whiting), and
% pound of hemp cut up fine. Mix to-
gether thoroughly with linseed oil, to about
the consistency of putty. R. M.
CEMENTS FOR CLOTH, EMERY, ETC.
11
Permanent Iron Cement for Steam Pipes
To make a permanent cement used for
stopping leaks in steam pipes where calk-
ing or plugging is impossible, mix black
oxide of manganese and raw linseed oil,
using enough oil with the manganese to
bring it to a thick paste ; apply to the
pipe or joint at leak. It is best to re-
move pressure from the pipe and keep It
sufficiently warm to absorb the oil from
the manganese. In twenty-four hours the
cement will be as hard as the iron pipe.
Oswego, N. Y. James H. Taylor.
any other cement. It dries thoroughly in
from 10 to 12 hours. T. E. O'Do.vxei.l
Urbana, 111.
Cement for Hig'li-pressure Water Pipe
Joints
A highly recommended packing and ce-
ment, combined, for making tight joints in
high pressure water pipes, is made as fol-
lows : Mix with boiled linseed oil, to the
consistency of putty, these ingredients :
ground litharge, 10 pounds ; plaster of
paris, 4 pounds ; yellow ochre, % pound ;
red lead, 2 pounds ; cut hemp fiber, %
ounce. The hemp fiber should be cut in
lengths of about % inch, and thoroughly
mixed into the putty material. Its office is
to give consistency to the cement. The
cement is applied to the joint similarly to
Cements for Iron Joints
The following are cements used to make
the joints of machinery air and water
tight :
1. Mix ground white lead with one-
fourth its weight of red lead.
2. Mix equal parts of red lead and white
lead, in powdered form, with enough boiled
linseed oil to make the whole a soft, putty-
like mass.
o. To 50 pounds of borings, preferably
cast iron, which have been pounded and
sifted, add one pound of sal-ammoniac.
Mix with water when ready to use.
4. Boiled linseed oil and red lead mixed
to the consistency required. A small quan-
tity of litharge improves the cement for
many purposes.
5. Cast-iron borings 4 pounds, dried
potter's clay 1 pound, powdered potsherds
(broken crockery) 1 pound. Make into a
paste with salt and water.
I have used all of these cements and find
them satisfactory. No. 3 is used largely
for filling cracks in boilers, etc., and No. 5
is excellent for outdoor iron work, water
tanks, etc. F. L. Engei,.
New Britain, Conn.'
CEMENTS FOR ATTACHING CLOTH,
EMERY, ETC., TO IRON
To Fasten Paper Iiabels to Iron or Steel
Rub the surface over with an onion cut
in half. Then apply the label with glue
or paste. L. E. Mcnct.
Syracuse, N. Y.
Attaching' Cloth to Iron
Heat the iron so it will be just too hot
to touch with the bare hand, put on a coat
of red shellac ; have the cloth already cut,
applying it quickly, and press firmly in
place. James A. Peatt.
Howard, R. I.
Silicate of Soda Cement for Grinder
Bisks
We use silicate of soda (liquid glass) for
fastening emery disks to a disk grinder, and
think it is the best cement we ever tried.
It requires no haste in applying, and the
hotter the disk gets, the tighter it sticks.
Syracuse, N. Y. H. G. Herrick.
Substitute for Cement or Grinder Disks
A good substitute in place of glue or vari-
ous kinds of cement for fastening emery
cloth to the disk of grinders of the Gard-
ner type Is to heat or warm the disk and
apply a thin coating of beeswax ; then put
the emery cloth in place and allow to set
or cool under pressure. G. Hdber.
Kansas City, Mo.
To Cement Emery Cloth to Polishing
Bisk
Apply quickly to the disk with a broad
flat brush a coat of moderately thick shel-
lac varnish. Lay on the emery cloth and
place under a press at once. The shellac
varnish must be clean and without lumps
as these may not be pressed down to an
even surface and so cause scratches In the
work. Oscar E. Perrigo.
Neponset, Mass.
12
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Glue Asbestos or Other Fabric to
Iron
One of the most reliable cements or glues
to use for attaching asbestos or any other
fabric to iron is silicate of soda. It is suc-
cessfully used for attaching emery paper
disks to disk grinders. It is particularly
useful for attaching asbestos to furnace
pipes, because it stands heat well, and for
this reason silicate of soda is an all-around
cement of much value. M. E. Canek.
To Cover Iron Pulleys with Rubber
Thoroughly clean the surface of the pul-
ley ; if the pulley has just been turned in
the lathe, so much the better. Give it a
thorough wash in muriatic acid and let
stand over night. In the morning give the
iron and rubber a good coat of heavy yellow
shellac varnish and apply the rubber and
clamp. Let stand until thoroughly set.
Lakewood, Ohio. E. B. Gafkey.
Cement for Attaching- Soft Rubber to
Iron or Other Metals
A cement which is effective for cement-
ing rubber to iron and which is specially
valuable for fastening rubber bands to band-
saw wheels Is made as follows : Powdered
shellac, 1 part ; strong water of ammonia,
10 parts. Put the shellac in the ammonia
water and set it away in a tightly closed
Jar for three or four weeks. In that time
the mixture will become a perfectly liquid
transparent mass and is then ready for use.
When applied to rubber the ammonia
softens it, but it quickly evaporates, leaving
the rubber in the same condition as before.
The shellac clings to the iron and thus
forms a firm bond between the iron and the
rubber. M. E. Canek.
Altay, N. Y.
Cement for Sticking- Emery Paper on
Small Grinder Disks
Melt together 5 parts paraffine, 4 parts
beeswax and 1 part rosin. When cold, cut
into blocks, and apply evenly on the re-
volving disk until it has a thin coat over
its entire surface. The emery paper
should then be pressed on the disk while it
is still revolving, thereby slightly heating
both the disk and the paper, and causing
the cement to spread In a thin layer all
around the disk. The belt should then be
shifted onto the loose pulley, so that the
paper may be pressed closely to the disk.
The corners may then be trimmed off with
an old file. It requires a little practice to
perform the .iob successfully, but the
method is much superior to removing the
disk and gluing the emery paper on In a
press. The worn-out paper can be more
easily removed, it being only necessary to
wait until the disk is cool, when, by taking
hold of one portion of the paper, it may be
ripped right off. , H. J. Bachmann.
New York.
CEMENTS FOR LEATHER, AND LEATHER AND METALS
A Belt Cement
To make a reliable belt cement use 1 pound
of Peter Cooper's white glue and 1 ounce
of powdered white lead ; mix like ordinary
glue (thick). When used it should be
thinned to the required consistency with
grain alcohol and applied hot. This ce-
ment is particularly valuable where long,
hard usage is required, such as for dynamo
belts. J. H. V.
Belt Cement
Put 15 pounds of best glue in a kettle
and pour over it 5 gallons of cold water.
Let it stand a few hours or over night in
a cold room, after which dissolve by gentle
heat. Stir in one pint of Venice turpentine
and add one gallon of Martin's belt cement.
Cook for four or five hours by gentle heat,
being careful not to boil the mixture. A
water or steam jacketed kettle should be
used to avoid burning. If too thick, mix
with water. Albert F. Babbitt.
Attleboro, Mass.
Cement for Iieather Belts
To prepare a good cement for leather
belts, soften equal parts of good hide-glue
and American isinglass, in warm water for
about 10 hours. Mix the two ingredients
together thoroughly and then pour on a
quantity of pure tannin and boil until the
mass is sticky. Just enough tannin should
be added so that the mass will have a good
consistency when boiling hot. To apply the
cement, roughen the surfaces to be cemented
and apply the cement while It is very hot.
Press the parts together firmly and hold
in that position until dry.
Olney, 111. T. E. O'Don.vell.
Cement for Iieather Belts
To make a cement for leather belts use
gutta percha, 16 parts ; pure white India
rubber, 4 parts ; dissolve, and then add
pitch, 2 parts ; shellac, 1 part ; and boiled
linseed oil, 2 parts. W. R. Bowers.
Birmingham, Eng.
CEMENTS FOR LEATHER
13
Cement for Iieatber
One ounce shellac, 2 ounces pitch, 2
ounces linseed oil, 4 ounces caoutcbouc, 1
pound gutta percha. Melt togetner and
apply Lot. B. H. McClintock.
West Somerville, Mass.
Cement for Belts
Mix 5 ounces bisulphite of carbon with
% ounce spirits of turpentine, and enough
gutta percha to make a paste. Thin the
ends of the belt so that when they are
joined the thickness at the joint is the
same as the thickness of the belt. If the
belt ends are greasy, apply some blotting
paper and a hot iron to free them from
grease. Then apply some of the paste,
and press the parts together, using screw
clamps and two pieces of board of the
same width as the belt. The cement will
dry in a short time, when the clamps can
be removed. I have cemented belts in this
way at night, and in the morning they
were as nicely joined as could be wished.
Los Angeles, Cal. J. M. Menegus.
Cement for Slicking Leather Tillet on
Brass Patterns
Melt together 8 parts pure beeswax and
2 parts rosin ; cut into strips when cold
and apply with a slicking tool of the
proper radius. A piece of wire set into a
steel ball, and heated over a Bunsen burner
is the best for this purpose. The pattern
should be slightly warmed to enable the
cement to flow between the leather and
brass. When cold any superfluous cement
may be removed with a piece of waste
soaked in spirits of turpentine.
New York. H. J. Bachmann.
Cement for Leather Belts
In an ordinary glue-pot soak overnight
a pound of good fish glue in a pint of cold
water. Heat this up, stirring until com-
pletely dissolved. Then add one ounce of
dry white lead. When the mixture has
been again thoroughly stirred and is nearly
cool, add one ounce of grain alcohol, and
stir it well in. Heat up the cement again
when it is wanted for use. In the use of
this cement care should be taken to have
the laps freshly and smoothly cut, and as
clean as possible. The cement should be
evenly spread with a brush over both sur-
faces and the surfaces placed in contact
as quickly as possible, and on each side
of the lapped belt should be placed a pre-
viously warmed board and the whole
clamped together for an hour or two ac-
cording to the width of the belt, its thick-
ness and the amount of strain it will have
to stand. This cement can be made In
larger quantities by observing the same
proportions, and when cool it may be cut
up into small pieces and kept in good condi-
tion In a fruit jar tightly closed. When
it Is wanted it will not be necessary to
heat up more than is wanted for the job
in hand. Oscar E. Perrigo.
Neponset, Mass.
Glne for Leather Belts
Take common glue and isinglass, equal
parts; place them in a glue pot, cover with
water, let soak 10 hours, bring to a boiling
heat, add pure tannin to make to consist-
ency of the white of an egg. Apply warm,
have surfaces clean and dry ; clamp joint
firmly and let dry. L. B. MuNcy.
Syracuse, N. Y.
Cement for Fixing* Leather or Paper
to Pulleys
Soak six pounds of carriage glue over
night; then heat until thoroughly dis-
solved and add six pounds of white lead
ground in oil. Reduce the mixture with
oil until it is of a free working consist-
ency. Now add one ounce of nitric acid
and stir until thoroughly mixed. The pul-
ley surface should be made thoroughly
clean and should be warmed to about 125
degrees F. Then apply the cement and
clamp on the leather and let stand twelve
hours before using. If the job is done
right, the leather will have to be turned
off in a lathe in order to remove it.
Lakewood, Ohio. E. B. Gafkey.
Cheap Cement for General Use
To make a cheap cement for general use,
mix gum acacia (pulverized), 1 ounce;
French isinglass, 2 ounces ; vinegar, 4
ounces ; essence of sassafras. 5 drops. After
mixing allow it to stand for 12 hours, then
heat until thoroughly dissolved when it is
ready for use. For covering pulleys with
leather, paper, etc., add % ounce glycerine
to one quart of cement, heat and use while
hot. Oily belts can be successfully spliced
with this cement by rubbing the scarfed
ends with powdered sal-soda and applying
a coat of cement, which is allowed to dry ;
then apply a second coating and put to-
gether. J. H. V.
14
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Cement for Iieather and Iron
To face a cast-iron pulley with leather
apply acetic acid to the face of the pulley
with a brush which will roughen it by
rusting, and then when dry apply a cement
made of one pound of fish glue, and %
pound of common glue, melted in a mix-
ture of alcohol and water. The leather
should then be placed on the pulley and
■dried under pressure. K. M.
Cement for Holding' Iieather on Iron
Pulleys for Band Saws
First soak twelve ounces of good glue in
cold water. Put four ounces of boiled oil
and four ounces of turpentine into the glue
pot, and in this dissolve three ounces of
resin. When the resin is dissolved, add the
glue. The resin and glue should be well
stirred while dissolving.
Before applying the leather cover to a
pulley have it warm and dry, and scrape
off all matter that may have accumulated
on Its face. Then, with a swab, apply
muriatic acid (full strength) to all parts
of the face of the pulley. When dry, wipe
gently with waste. Cut leather lengthwise
of hide, and a little wider than the face of
the pulley. Have the cement melted in the
glue pot, apply it across the face of the
pulley, with a brush, for about six or eight
inches, lay on the end of leather and rub
it down hard with the corner of a piece of
wood. Fold back the leather and continue
to apply cement until the pulley is covered.
Two thicknesses of leather are used. Make
the first thickness a butt joint, and the last
a scarf or lap joint of about three or four
Inches long. Make the laps on the driven
pulleys the way they run, and on the driv-
ers the opposite way. Pulleys should be
cleaned by holding a piece of coarse sand
paper against them. R. F. Williams.
Montreal, Canada.
Cement for Fastening Iieather to Iron
To make a good quality of glue for
fastening leather to iron, as required when
covering iron pulleys with leather, etc., the
following will be found to be a good re-
ceipt: To one part of glue dissolved in
strong cider vinegar add 1 ounce of Venice
turpentine. Allow this to boil very slowly
over a moderate fire for 10 to 12 hours. It
should be applied to the surface of the
iron, upon which the leather Is to be ce-
mented, with a brush, while it is still quite
warm. Before applying, the iron surface
and the leather should be scraped perfectly
clean. Then put on the leather, press it
firmly into place and allow to dry for a
few hours.
Urbana, 111. T. E. O'Donnell.
CEMENTS FOR ATTACHING GLASS AND MARBLE
TO METALS
■Cement for Fastening' Glass Work to
Brass Tubes
A cement for fastening glass work to
brass tubes is made of rosin, 5 ounces ;
beeswax, 1 ounce ; and red ochre or Vene-
tian red, in powder, 1 ounce.
Birmingham, Eng. W. R. Bowers.
Cement for 'Uniting' Glass and Brass
It is often necessary, in electrical fac-
tories and repair shops, to cement small
brass parts to glass. A good cement for
this purpose is made from the following :
1 part caustic soda, 3 parts resin, 3 parts
plaster of paris, 5 parts water. Boil all
the constituents together until thoroughly
mixed, and then allow to cool before using.
The cement hardens in half an hour. If it
is desired that it should not harden so
quickly, substitute zinc white, white lead,
• or slaked lime, for the plaster.
Urbana, 111. T. E. O'Doxnell.
Cement for Attaching Metal to Glass
To make a cement for attaching metal
to glass mix 2 ounces thick glue, 1 ounce
linseed oil, % ounce turpentine. Boil to-
gether for a short time when it will be fit
for use. Apply hot with a brush and
clamp the parts together for aoout two
days to allow the cement to dry.
R. M. K.
Cement for Fastening Metals to Glass
Melt together in a water bath 15 parts
of copal varnish, 5 parts of drying oil, and
3 parts of turpentine. When the ingredi-
ents are well mixed add 10 parts slaked
lime. An elastic cement for fastening brass
to glass may be made by mixing 5 ounces
of resin, 1 ounce beeswax, and 1 ounce of
red ochre or Venetian red in powdered
form. Melt the rosin and beeswax together
by gentle heat, and gradually stir in the
Venetian red. W. R. Bowers.
Birmingham, England.
MISCELLANEOUS CEMENTS
15
Cement for Switchboard Repairs
A good cement for making repairs on
switctiboards, when iron or other metal
has to be fastened to marble, or where
binding posts have been pulled out, may be
made to consist of 30 parts plaster of paris,
10 parts iron filings, and V2 part of sal-
ammoniac. These are mixed with acetic
acid (vinegar) to form a thin paste. This
cement must always be used immediately
after being ml.xed, as it solidifies If allowed
to stand for any length of time. It will be
found to be an excellent means for filling
up old binding-post holes, when Instru-
ments have boen moved. T. E. O'Donnell.
Urbana, 111.
CEMENTS FOR GLUING EMERY, METALS, ETC., TO WOOD
Cement for Fastening* Tools in Their
Handles
Mix . one part beeswax, one part fine
brick dust and four parts black rosin.
E. H. McClintock.
West S'omervllle, Mass.
Cement for Gluing* Emery to Wood or
Metal
The following is a good receipt for gluing
emery to wood or metal and I have used It
with success where other cements have
failed. Melt together equal parts of shel-
lac, white rosin and carbolic acid (In crys-
tals) adding the carbolic acid after the
shellac and rosin have been melted. This
makes a cement having great holding
power. W. T.
To Fasten Rubher to Wood
Make a cement by macerating virgin gum
rubber, or as pure rubber as can be had,
cut in small pieces, In just enough naptha
or gasoline to cover it. Let it stand In a
very tightly corked or scaled jar for four-
teen days, or a sufficient time to become
dissolved, shaking the mixture daily.
Another cement Is made by dissolving
pulverized gum shellac, 1 ounce, In 9^^
ounces of strong ammonia. This of course
must be kept tightly corked. It will not
be as elastic as the first preparation.
Neponset, Mass. Oscar E. Perrigo.
Cement for Joining" Metals to Wood
Dissolve in boiling water 2^4 pounds
glue, 2 ounces gum ammoniac and drop by
drop 2 ounces of sulphuric acid.
Birmingham, Eng. W. R. Bowers.
Cement for Fastening Emery to Wood
Melt and mix equal parts of shellac,
white rosin and carbolic acid In crystals.
Add the acid after the other two Ingredi-
ents are melted. W. R. Bowers.
Birmingham, England.
CEMENTS FOR MISCELLANEOUS PURPOSES
Shellac Cement
Shellac Is the basis of most adhesive
cements. A good one is made by thicken-
ing shellac varnish (shellac dissolved in
alcohol) with dry white lead, mixing the
two with a putty knife on a piece of glass.
St. Johnsbury, Vt. W. H. Sargent.
A Cement for Mending Rubber Goods
Dissolve raw gum rubber or caoutchouc
In bisulphide of carbon for a number of
days In a tightly stopped bottle until It
has the consistency of a thick paste. Make
the surfaces to be cemented clean and dry
before applying, and press joint tightly to-
gether. L. E. MUNCY.
Syracuse, N. Y.
Cement Not Affected by Alcohol
Gold size Is valuable as a cement for set-
ting together parts of vessels containing al-
cohol as It Is not affected by alcohol as are
some other good cements. It has been used
for setting the glass covers of circular levels,
the glass afterward being burred over in the
brass shell so that It Is securely held me-
chanically. Ordinary painters' size Is used,
which may be prepared as follows : Boll raw
oil In a pan until It smokes, then set it on
fire and let bum for a few moments. Cover
the pan to extinguish the blaze and pour
while warm into a receptacle containing red
lead and litharge In the proportion of one
ounce of each to a quart of oil. Keep at a
temperature of 70 degrees for ten days and
agitate once a day. M. E. Canek.
16
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Acid-proof Cement
Mix a concentrated solution of soda with
pulverized glass to form a paste.
Biimingham, Eng. W. R. Bowers.
Glycerine-lithargfe Cement
A handy cement to have in the shop for
stopping leaks, etc., and which can be used
for cementing glass, brass, etc., is made by
mixing equal parts of litharge, commercial
glycerine and Portland cement. This ce-
ment will harden under water and will
withstand hydrocarbon vapors.
Dayton, Ohio. O. E. Voris.
Portland-tar Cement
A valuable cement used In marine practice
and other places where elasticity is desir-
able, is made by mixing Portland cement in
gas tar until the consistency is that of stiflf
putty. It must be applied immediately as
it quickly hardens. It is not affected by
water and never becomes brittle, a fact that
makes it very valuable around the tall-
shafts of steamers or wherever there is
much vibration. A. L. Graffam.
Hampton, Va.
Waterproof Cements
To make a good waterproof cement in a
thin paste form, dissolve 1 ounce powdered
resin in 10 oimces strong ammonia and
add 5 parts gelatine and 1 part solution
of acid chromate of lime. For waterproof
cement in paste form, add to hot starch
paste one-half its weight of turpentine and
a small piece of alum. T. E. O'Donnell.
Urbana, 111.
Cement for Arc Lamp Carbons
The short ends of old arc lamp carbons
may be cemented together to form rods
which burn quite well, and are no more
brittle than ordinary carbons. The cement
required is made by mixing potassium sili-
cate and carbon dust to a consistency of a
thick paste. The ends of the short carbon
pieces are faced off square, and, after ap-
plication of the paste, are pressed together
by hand. 0. G.
Waterproof Cements for Glass
Probably the simplest and best aquarium
cement (the formula for which is recom-
mended by the United States Fish Com-
mission) is made as follows: Stir together
by weight 8 parts pulverized putty (dry
whiting), 1 part red lead and 1 part
litharge. Mix as wanted for use with pure
raw linseed oil to a consistency of stiff
putty. Allow it to dry a week before using.
Another waterproof cement is made by
dry mixing 10 parts each by measure of fine
dry white sand plaster of paris and litharge
and 1 part powdered resin. Mix as re-
quired to a stiff putty with boiled linseed
oil. The linseed oil must be free from any
trace of adulteration with fish oil. It is
sometimes necessary to boll pure raw lin-
seed oil a few moments to drive off the
water. A. L. Graffam.
Indiana, Pa.
GLUES AND THEIR PREPARATION
To Waterproof Glued Joints
To render glued joints waterproof, rub
common chalk on the surface of the wood
where the glue is to be applied, and then
coat with ordinary glue in the usual man-
ner. The chalk will protect the glue from
moisture so that the joint will hold as well
after being soaked in water as before. I
tested this method some time ago and found
that it works very well. W. S. Leoxard.
Lansing, Mich.
Use of Glue
A mistake not uncommonly made by
infrequent users of glue is to break up dry
glue in hot water. This is bad practice as
the adhesiveness is greatly impaired. Al-
ways soak dry glue in cold water and then
cook, but do not cook too long, as this is
injurious also. Glue that has soured
should not be used, and every precaution
should be taken to keep it sweet if the best
results would be obtained. M. E. Canek.
Glues V/liicli Resist Moisture
A glue cement that resists moisture Is
made by mixing with the least possible
quantity of water Impart glue, 1 part rosin
and 14 part red ochre.
Another glue which resists moisture is
made of one pint glue melted in two quarts
skimmed milk. Add powdered chalk to
make it stronger.
A marine glue is made of one part of
india rubber, 12 parts naphtha. Heat
gently, mix and add 20 parts of powdered
shellac. Pour out on a slab to cool. When
used it has to be heated to about 250 de-
grees F. A. L. MONEAD.
New Haven, Conn.
ETCHING FLUIDS
17
To Make Iiiqnid Glue
Take one quart soft water and 2 pounds
of pale glue ; dissolve in a covered vessel
by the heat of a water bath, cool, and add
gradually 7 ounces of nitric acid (specific
gravity 1.335). This glue is very strong
and will not gelatinize. C. S.
To Prevent Glue Cracking'
A useful fact to know in regard to glue
when using it on furniture or other work
that will be exposed to a very dry atmo-
sphere, is that a small addition of chloride
of lime will tend to prevent the glue dry-
ing out and cracking. The chloride of lime
Is strongly hygroscopic and constantly at-
tracts enough moisture from the atmosphere
to keep it moist. Use about one-fourtb
ounce of chloride to one quart of glue.
M. E. Canek.
ETCHING FLUIDS
Etching Fluid
I have found the following receipt for a
fluid for etching steel to be very satisfac-
tory, both for frosting effect and deep etch-
ing. Mix 1 ounce sulphate of copper, y^
ounce alum, % teaspoonful of salt (reduced
to powder), with 1 gill of vinegar and 20
drops of nitric acid. This fluid can be used
either for etching deeply or for frosting, ac-
cording to the time it is allowed to act.
The parts of the work which are not to be
etched should be protected with beeswax or
some similar substance. S. C.
IiicLuid for EtcMng- on Steel
The following solution will be found ex-
cellent and reliable either for very deep
etching upon steel, or for the purpose of
producing beautiful frosted effects upon the
surface. Mix together 1 ounce sulphuric
acid, % ounce alum, % teaspoonful salt, 14
pint acetic acid or vinegar, and 20 drops
concentrated nitric acid. The etching effect
produced by this solution depends upon the
length of time it is allowed to act upon
the metal. It is applied In the same way
as ordinary etching acid.
Urbana, 111. T. E. O'Donnell.
EtcMng Acid
The various receipts for etching acid to
be used on steel in most cases call
for two-thirds muriatic acid. I find that
the object of the muriatic acid is simply to
remove the grease and foreign substance
from the steel, and that if only enough
muriatic acid is used to accomplish this
purpose, the etching acid will work better
and quicker. I have used etching acid with
muriatic and nitric acids in almost all pro-
portions and have found none so good as
two-thirds nitric to one-third of muriatic
acid. In some cases I have had good suc-
cess even with a less proportion of the
latter ingredient. Geo. W. Smith.
Marquette, Mich.
Etching riuid for Steel
The following receipt for etching fluid
for steel, was highly recommended to me,
and I have tried it in comparison with an-
other fluid on hardened steel. I found It
win make very neat and sharply defined
lines, and does the work very quickly :
Nitric acid, 60 parts : water, 120 parts ;
alcohol, 200 parts, and copper^nitrate, 8
parts. Keep in a bottle having glass stop-
per. To use the fluid, cover the surface to
be marked with a thin even coat of wax
and mark the lines with a machinist's
scrlber. Wrap a bit of clean waste around
the end of the scrlber or a stick, and dip-
ping same in the fluid, apply it to the
marked surface. In a few minutes the wax
may be scraped off, when fine lines will
appear where the scriber marked the wax.
The drippings from a lighted wax candle
can be used for the coating, and this may
be evenly spread with a knife heated In
the candle flame. W. S. Leonard.
Lansing, Mich.
AcMs for Etching
Soft Steel. — Nitric acid, 1 part ; water,
4 parts.
Hard Steel. — Nitric acid, 2 parts ; acetic
acid, 1 part.
Deep Etching. — Hydrochloric acid, 10
parts ; chlorate of potash, 2 parts ; water,
88 parts.
Etching Bronze. — Nitric acid, 100 parts;
muriatic acid, 5 parts.
Brass. — Nitric acid, 16 parts, water,
160 parts. Dissolve six parts potassium
chlorate In 100 parts of water, then mix
the two solutions and apply.
Where the name. Initials, or monogram
is etched on a tool, for instance a square
blade, black asphaltum varnish makes the
best "resist." Have a rubber stamp made
with the design you wish to etch and
stamp the tools with the same, using the
varnish as you would ink on the stamp,
the stamp having a fancy border around
the outside edge. This method leaves the
letters or design in relief and makes an
unique appearance. E. W. Norton.
18
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Etching' Solution
The etching solution made by the follow-
ing formula has an advantage over other
etching solutions in that it will not rust the
most highly polished steel, and It Is not
In any way injurious to the hands or cloth-
ing— as a matter of fact the hands can be
dipped into it with no ill effects. Mix 6
ounces distilled water ; 4 ounces sulphate
of copper, 4 ounces chloride of sodium
(common salt); 1 dram sulphate of zinc;
% dram sulphate of alum. The solution is
applied in the following manner : The piece
to be marked is covered with melted bees-
wax, and the inscription to be etched is
marked through the wax with a fine pointed
tool, leaving the wax undisturbed save
where the marking is to appear. The mark-
ings are then filled with the fluid and al-
lowed to stand for three hours. The result
will be a very sharp and distinct lettering.
rhiladelphia, Pa. L. Meyers.
To Write on Steel
Stamping tools with steel stamps will
spring them and throw them out of true.
Machinists should write their names on
their steel tools using a fluid made of
nitric acid 1 part, water 2 parts. Heat the
tool gently until some wax that ha:'s been
put on it melts and spreads thinly over the
surface. When cold blacken the wax at a
candle ; then write on the wax with a steel
point deep enough to touch the metal, and
cover the writing with the fluid. In about
three minutes wash and remove the wax.
This fluid, however, will spread more or
less and the writing will not be very flne.
A better fluid can be made thus : Alcohol
2 parts, nitric acid 1 part, distilled water
15 parts, and nitrate of silver % dram
per quart of fluid. Nitric acid, however,
produces vapors that are disagreeable and
harmful. Chromic acid made by dissolving
one part of bichromate of potash in 5 parts
of sulphuric acid, for this reason is more
desirable as an etching fluid, although much
slower in its action. J. M. Menegcs.
Los Angeles, Cal.
lead pencil (which is very much preferable
to a scriber) write or mark as wanted
through the wax so as to be sure to strike
the steel surface. Then daub on with a
.stick some etching acid made as follows :
.S parts nitric acid ; 1 part muriatic acid.
If a lead pencil has been used the acid will
begin to bubble Immediately. Two or three
minutes of the bubbling or foaming will be
sufBclent for marking, then soak up the
acid with a small piece of blotting paper
and remove the beeswax with a piece of
waste wet with benzine, and if the piece be
small enough dip it into a saturated solu-
tion of sal soda, or if the piece be large
swab over it with a piece of waste. This
neutralizes the remaining acid and prevents
rusting, which oil will not do.
If it is desired to coat the piece with
beeswax without heating it, dissolve pure
beeswax in benzine until of the consistency
of thick cream and pour on to the steel and
spread it evenly by rocking or blowing, and
lay it aside to harden ; then use the lead
pencil, etc., as before. This method will
take longer. Keep work away from the Are
or an open flame. A. S. Gun.
Etching' on Hardened Steel
First heat an iron or an old pillar file
with a smooth side, and with it spread a
thin, even coat of beeswax over the bright-
ened surface to be etched. With a sharp
Etching' on Copper
For acid resisting ground use a mixture
of 2 ounces white wax to which when
melted is added 1 ounce gum mastic in
powdered form, a little at a time, until the
wax and gum are well mixed. Then, in
the same way, add 1 ounce powdered bitu-
men. When this is thoroughly mixed add
to it % of its volume of essential oil of
lavender. This should be well mixed and
allowed to cool. The paste can be applied
with a hand roller, and if it Is too thick,
can be made to flow easier by adding a
little more oil. When the paste is ap-
plied to the copper plate, expose it to a
gentle heat in order to expel the oil of
lavender. For a biting or etching acid use
a mixture of 5 parts of hydrochloric acid,
1 part of chlorate of potash and 44 parts
of water. The water is heated and the
potash added. The acid is added first when
the potash is fully dissolved. This mix-
ture is used by immersing the whole ob-
ject to be etched, the object, of course,
first being covered on all sides by the acid
resisting ground. Oliver E. Voris.
Dayton, O.
HARDENING AND TEMPERING CARBON STEEL
To Harden Drills for Cutting Glass
To harden drills for cutting glass, dis-
solve zinc in muriatic acid to saturation.
then reduce the solution by adding an equal
volume of water. Dip and use without
tempering. E. W Norton.
HARDENING AND TEMPERING
19
To Harden Fine Dies
To successfully harden dies for fine work,
such as are used by jewelers and others, be
careful to have the surface free from all
grease or oil, pack face downward In a
mixture of equal parts of finely powdered
hardwood charcoal and charred bone. Dip
In salt water and draw temper to 450 de-
grees F. Hardener.
To Prevent Scale in Hardening' Fine Dies
It is possible to prevent the formation
of any scale In the impression of fine
Jewelers' dies and the like, and retain the
finished brilliancy of surface, by applying
a mixture of powdered ivory black and
Bperm oil, mixed to the consistency of
paste. It is only necessary to apply a
thin coat. Hardener.
To Remove Burnt Oil fvova. Hardened
Steel
To remove excess oil from parts that
have been hardened in oil, place the arti-
cles in a small tank of gasoline, which,
when exposed to the air, will dry off imme-
diately, allowing the part to be polished
and tempered without the confusing and
unsightly marks of burnt oil.
New York. H. J. Bachmann.
Mixture for Hardening Spiral Springs
The following oil bath mixture gives ex-
cellent results for hardening spiral springs:
Two gallons best whale oil, 2 pounds Rus-
sian tallow, and % pound rosin. Boll the
tallow and the rosin together until dis-
solved ; add the whale oil and stir up well,
and then It is ready for use.
Birmingham, Eng. W. R. Bowers.
process is undesirable, It may be removed
by the following simple method. After the
part Is hardened, dip It into a glass filled
with muriatic acid and allow It to remain
for five seconds ; then plunge It Into a pall
of water. In this way the polish of the
steel will return and then temper will not
be affected. This method Is much quicker
than obtaining a polish by the use of emery
cloth. John C. Monrad.
Buffalo, N. Y.
Steel Hardening and Tempering*
Compound
I would submit the following formula as
an excellent compound for hardening and
tempering steel : To 10 gallons of soft
water, add 5 teacups of salt, 6 ounces salt-
peter, 12 teaspoonfuls of powdered alum,
and 1 teaspoonful corrosive subflmate. We
have tempered flat cutters. Acme and U. S.
standard taps, counterbores, reamers, etc.,
to our entire satisfaction, without drawing
the temper in any of them.
Columbus, O. H. S. Hindman.
To Prevent I^ead from Sticking to the
Work
To prevent lead from sticking to work
that has many small corners or grooves,
when heated in a lead bath preparatory to
hardening, mix lamp black with water or
alcohol to the consistency of paint and
apply with a brush. Be sure that the mix-
ture Is thoroughly dried out before the
piece is dipped Into the lead bath.
E. W. Norton.
To Prevent the Sticking of Hot Iiead
To prevent molten lead from sticking to
the pot or the tools heated in it, cover the
surface with a mixture of powdered char-
coal, 1 quart; salt, i^ pint; yellow pruss-
late of potash, 1 gill ; and cyanide of
potassium a lump the size of a walnut.
Hardener.
Removing the Color Due to the Hard-
ening" Process
If a punch, reamer or other tool is to be
hardened, and the color resulting from that
Tempering Compound for Steel
The following receipt for a tempering
compound I have found very useful when It
was impossible to procure a good grade of
steel. This compound will be found spe-
cially good for cold chisels, center punches,
flat lathe drills, etc., and in fact almost
any tool not having Irregular forms or thin
cutting edges. To 6 quarts of good clear
rain water add 1 ounce of corrosive sub-
limate and 2 pints common salt. Stir until
thoroughly dissolved. This compound seems
to both harden and toughen steel ; the tools
are dipped and drawn in the usual manner.
Louisville, Ky. Herrmann G. Kroeger.
20
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Temper Small Coil Spring's
To temper small coil springs in a furnace
burning wood the springs are exposed to
the heat of the flame and are quenched in
a composition of the following preparation :
To a barrel of fish-oil, 10 quarts of rosin
and 12 quarts of tallow are added. If the
springs tempered in this mixture break,
more tallow is added, but if the break in-
dicates brittleness of the steel rather than
excessive hardness, a ball of yellow bees-
wax about 6 Inches in diameter is added.
The springs are drawn to a reddish purple
by being placed on a frame having hori-
zontally radiating arms like a star which
Is mounted on the end of a vertical rod.
The springs are laid on the star and are
lowered Into a pot of melted lead, being
held there for such time as is required to
draw to the desired color. A. L. Monrad.
New Haven, Conn.
To Prevent the Accumulation of Foreign
Substances on Top of a Hardeningf
Bath
Dust or small globules of oil, which
sometimer give trouble by collecting at the
top of hardening solutions, can be disposed
of by placing a piece of ordinary newspaper
on top of the solution ; the dirt and oil ad-
here to the paper and are thus readily
removed, thereby avoiding the labor of
skimming the bath. Emil Tschudi.
Cincinnati, Ohio.
To Prevent Hot Lead Sticking- to Work
About three years ago we had a new
quick-break switch to manufacture in large
quantities. One piece of the switch was
required to be hard at one end and soft
at the other. We tried several methods of
annealing so as to leave one end hard, but
found that the temper was drawn through-
out, and all were rejected. We finally de-
cided that a hot lead bath was the only
way that would anneal one end and leave
the other end hard, but we then encountered
the diflSculty of the hot lead sticking to
the work. A number of receipts were tried
for preventing it without success, but
finally I discovered a process that is quick
and very cheap. Mix common whiting or
cold water paint with wood alcohol and
paint the part that Is to be annealed. The
hot lead will not stick, no matter how long
the piece is held in the pot. Of course. In
the work mentioned, the pieces were low-
ered quickly Into the hot lead and removed
as soon as possible, In order to prevent
drawing the temper of the hard end, and
then the whole was plunged Into a pail of
cold water. Water will do as well as alco-
hol to mix the paint, but alcohol Is the most
convenient inasmuch as it can be used
without waiting for the paint to dry. If
water is used, the paint must be thoroughly
dry, as otherwise the moisture will cause
the lead to fly. E. J. Lawless.
Pittsfleld, Mass.
To Heat the Tips of Small Tools
Sometimes it is necessary to heat, for
the purpose of hardening or annealing, the
tips of small tools, such as countersinks,
etc. To do this without heating other por-
tions of the tool is at times difficult to
accomplish. If the tool is inserted into a
raw potato, exposing only the part to be
heated, the operation is easily performed.
South Portland, Me. J. V. N. Cheney.
Hardening' Bath
To make an excellent hardening solution,
mix pure rain water and salt strong enough
to float a raw potato, and to twenty gallons
of the brine add three pints of oil of vitriol.
Tool steel may be hardened at a surpris-
ingly low heat in this solution, a very great
advantage, of course, when hardening dif-
ficult shapes. The solution, however, has
one slight disadvantage in that it causes
the steel to rust quickly unless the steel la
thoroughly scrubbed in strong hot soda
water immediately after hardening. Tools
hardened in this solution should come out
of the bath a beautiful silver gray color,
and If there are any black' spots they are
likely to be soft. I. W. Axtano.
Hardening Compound
In hardening small tools, some of the
more delicate and essential parts of the
tool to be tempered are very apt to be
overheated and burned unless extraordinary
care is exercised. The following is descrip-
tive of a compound that can be used to
prevent over-heating of such small delicate
instruments during the process of temper-
ing. Dissolve 2 ounces of pure castile soap
In enough warm water to make a thin
paste, and add to it the contents of a
five-cent package of lamp black, mixing It
well into a stiff paste. This must be kept
securely sealed in a can. To use the com-
pound, slightly warm the small tool or
object that Is to be hardened, and smear
the paste all over it. When dry, heat and
quench in the usual way. As the paste Is
removed by the bath, the work will be
clean enough to observe the color In tem-
pering. T. E. O'DOXNELL.
Urbana, III.
HEAT TREATMENT OF HIGH-SPEED STEEL
21
Hardening- Formula for Cutting Tools
To make a hardening solution for metal
cutting tools mix saltpeter, 2 ounces ; sal-
amoniac, 2 ounces; alum, 2 ounces; salt,
IVi pound; and soft water, 3 gallons.
Keep the solution in a stone jar, for it will
eat a wooden tub and rust an iron pot. Do
not draw the temper but only warm the
tools enough to relieve the hardening
strains. It is also well to rinse the tools
well in water, for if this is not done, the
solution will rust them. Toolmaker.
Preparation for Producing- Extreme
Hardness in Steel
The steel to be hardened should be im-
mersed in a mixture of 4 parts of water,
2 parts of salt, and 1 part of flour. To
get the steel thoroughly coated it should
be slightly heated before dipping in the
composition. After dipping, it is heated to
a cherry red and plunged in soft water.
This will make the steel harder than if
simply heated and dipped in water. S. C.
To Harden Steel Without Scaling-
Articles made of tool steel and polished
may be hardened without raising a scale,
thereby destroying the polish, by the fol-
lowing method : Prepare equal parts in
bulk of common salt and fine cornmeal,
well mixed. Dip the article to be hardened
first into water, then into the mixture and
place it carefully into the fire. When hot
enough to melt the mixture, take from the
fire and dip or roll in the salt and meal,
replace in the fire and bring to the required
heat for hardening. Watch the piece closely
and if any part of it shows signs of getting
"dry" sprinkle some of the mixture on it.
The mixture, when exposed to heat, forms
a flux over the surface of the steel which
excludes the air and prevents oxidation,
and when cooled in water or oil comes off
easily, leaving the surface as smooth as
before heating. Borax would possibly give
the same result, but is sometimes difiicult
to remove when cold. E. C. Noble.
Rock Falls, 111.
A Tempering- Solution
A tempering solution used for high beats
may be composed of two parts Chill salt-
peter and one part nitrate of soda. This
tempering solution is used only at high
temperatures, as it becomes solid at about
500 degrees F. It Is used in place of tem-
pering oils, as they often thicken after
short use, and will flash or ignite at about
GOO degrees F., and often at a lower tem-
perature. It should be used in connection
with a tempering furnace, the heat being
gaged by a thermometer. The thermometer
should be removed when the day's work is
over. At night, two iron plugs, with a
fairly liberal taper per foot, and long
enough to reach from the inside bottom of
the tank containing the bath, to about four
inches above the top of the solution, should
be placed vertically with the small end of
the taper down, and some little distance
apart. These should be permitted to stay
in the solution when it solidifies. On the
following morning, these iron plugs should
be unscrewed and removed. The holes left
in the solidified solution by these plugs
afford an escape for gases that form in
reheating the bath. E. S. Wheelek.
Alloys for Drawing Colors on Steel
Alloys of various compo.sition are success-
fully used for drawing colors on steel. To
draw to a straw color use 2 parts of lead
and 1 part of tin, and melt in an iron
ladle. Hold the steel piece to be drawn in
the alloy as it melts and it will turn to
straw color. This mixture melts at a tem-
perature of about 437 degrees F. For
darker yellow, use 9 parts of lead to 4
parts of tin, which melts at 458 degrees F.
For purple, use 3 parts of lead to 1 part
of tin, the melting temperature being 482
degrees P. For violet, use 9 parts of lead
to 2 parts of tin, which melts at 594 de-
grees F. Lead without any alloy will draw
steel to a dark blue.
Cleveland, Ohio. Max Dehne.
HEAT TREATMENT OF HIGH-SPEED STEEL
To Anneal High-speed and Air-harden-
ing Steels
To anneal "Novo" or "Blue Chip" high-
speed steel or any of the air-hardening
steels, pack the steel in a piece of gas pipe
with powdered charcoal, and seal the ends
with clay or caps screwed on. Heat to a
cherry red, giving time for the contents of
the pipe to reach this temperature, and
then set in a dry, sheltered place to cool.
The steel will be found annealed so that
it can be readily drilled, turned, planed or
worked as required.
A. A. Stevenson.
22
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Bath for Hardening' Higrh-speed Steel
An excellent bath for hardening high-
speed steel consists of a mixture of table
salt and paraffine oil, in the proportion of
one pound of table salt to each gallon of
pure oil. The steel is heated to a lemon
color, and plunged into the bath, being kept
in motion until it has thoroughly cooled.
The steel should come out of this bath gray
in color, and nearly free from black spots.
The bath referred to can be used for almost
all brands of high-speed steel, with good
results. It has been used to great advan-
tage for the Midvale steel, and also on a
large number of tools made of Novo, Sime-
teora, Rex, Jessop high-speed, and Blue
Chip steel. On all these, good results have
been obtained, but it may be added that
this bath seems to give the best results
with the Midvale steel. H. S. Steel.
Paste for Hardening' Hig'h-speed Steel
The hardening paste made according to
the following receipt has been used on high-
speed steel with success, enabling it to be
hardened by heating in an ordinary gas
oven, and thus making unnecessary the very
high heat usually called for in hardening
such steels. Mix 2 pounds rye meal ; 1
pound common salt ; 14 pound pulverized
borax ; % pound pulverized charcoal ; 1-3
pint (or % pound) liquid cyanide of potas-
sium ; % gill or 2 ounces of water glass
(silicate of soda) ; and 3 pints of water.
The liquid cyanide is made by dissolving
3 ounces of pulverized potassium cyanide in
one pint of boiling water. Mix thoroughly
to form a paste.
When using this paste I have found It
best to apply it in the following manner :
Provide a small cast-iron vessel or a cruci-
ble of the shape of a drip-pan, and spread
a thin layer of the paste on the bottom ;
put the work in the pan and cover that
with paste also. Place work and pan in
the gas oven and heat until it reaches a
nice full red. Dip in sperm, flsh or kero-
sene oil. Jos. M. Stabel.
Rochester, N. Y.
CASE-HARDENING
Case-hardening Process for Cold Rolled
Steel
To successfully case-harden common cold
rolled steel so that it will answer for the
cutters of inserted reamers, etc., pack the
cutters in granulated raw bone in a cast
Iron box with at least one-half inch layer
of bone between the cutters and the sides
of the box. Put on an iron cover and lute
with fire-clay ; heat in a gas furnace to al-
most a white heat for from two to five
hours according to the size of the box.
Then draw the box, open and dump quickly
into a bath composed of the following : 1
quart of vitriol (sulphuric acid), 4 pecks
common salt, 2 pounds saltpeter, 8 pounds
alum, 1 pound prussiate potash, 1 pound
cyanide potash and 40 gallons soft water.
S. Pittsburg, Pa. P. Wackeemanx.
Formula for Case-hardening Preparation
Yellow prussiate of potash, by weight, 7
'parts ; bichromate of potash, 1 part ; com-
mon salt, 8 parts ; pulverize the crystals
and mix thoroughly. Heat the piece to be
hardened to a dark red and dip into the
preparation or sprinkle it on the piece.
Return to the Are and let it soak, then
repeat several times according to the depth
of hardened surface wanted. Finally
plunge into water or oil. This may be
used on tool steel, soft steel or iron.
Meriden, Conn. James P. Hayes.
Mottled Case-hardened Articles
There are several ways of obtaining the
beautiful mottled effect on case-hardened
articles, but one of the simplest and most
effective methods is in use in the factory of
the Thos. B. Jeffery Co., Kenosha, Wis.
Here the usual cooling tank and screen for
catching the work are in use, but in addi-
tion, an air pipe is run into the bottom of
the tank in such a way that when the air
is turned on the water is filled with air
bubbles and is violently agitated. The re-
sult of these air bubbles striking the cyanide-
coated articles during the cooling process,
is some of the prettiest mottled work Im-
aginable. E. v.
To Mottle Case-hardened Pieces
A simple and effective way to get a mot-
tled effect In case-hardening with cyanide of
potassium is as follows : Set an open pail
or jar under a running hydrant, get the
pieces good and hot (bright red) in a ladle
of molten cyanide, then take out singly
with tweezers and simply throw them Into
the water. The air bubbles rising through
the water give the desired mottled effect.
A still better process, if an air blast is at
hand, is to connect a rubber hose in some
manner to the bottom of the pail, so that a
stream of air enters the water. This plan
serves well where no special appliance is
available for this class of work.
Chicago, 111. Harey Ash.
ANNEALING
23
Good Case hardeuingf Mixtures
One part sal-ammoniac and 3 parts
prussiate of potash ; or, 1 part prussiate
of potash, 2 parts bone dust and 2 parts
sal-ammoniac. E. H. arcCuNTOCE.
West Somervllle, Mass.
To Case-harden a Piece Ziocally
To case-harden part of a piece to a line
or in a spot cover the part or surface to
be hardened with a moderately heavy coat
of black japan enamel. I prefer this as it
bakes on more closely than anything else.
Clean the work thoroughly, then put on a
heavy coat of copper and the work is now
ready to be carbonized, and is packed in a
pot in bone or leather in the usual manner.
Heat long enough to give the required depth
of "case." Then take out of the fire and
cool down in the pot. When cold reheat
and dip in oil or water. The copper blocks
the absorption of carbon while the japan
bums off and allows the carbon in the
bone or leather to be absorbed by the iron.
E. W. Norton.
To Case-harden for Colors
Mix 10 parts charred bon*^, 0 parts wood
charcoal, 4 parts charred leather and 1
part of powdered cyanide potassium. Clean
the work thoroughly, and do not handle
with greasy hands. Pack the work with
the mixture in a common gas pipe plugged
at one end, and seal at the other with
asbestos cement. Heat In a furnace to a
dark cherry red and keep at that heat for
about 4 or 5 hours. Dump in a tank with
compressed air bubbling up through the
bottom. If the colors are too gaudy leave
out the cyanide. J. F. Sallows.
Grand Rapids, Mich.
Partial Case-hardenings
The entire surface of the work, or that
part which is to be hardened, should be
coated with a moderately heavy coat of
japan enamel, and then a medium heavy
coat of copper should be applied to the re-
maining portion of the work. In applying
the copper, care should be taken not to
disturb the japan. After the copper is
applied, the piece is ready to be carbonized.
It should be packed, and heated to a bright
red, and held at this heat long enough for
the requirements of the work. Then the
box or case, containing the pieces to be
case-hardened, are taken out of the fire and
the work is permitted to cool in the box.
When cool, the work is taken out and re-
heated in the open fire, and dipped in oil
or water. The copper prevents the absorp-
tion of the carbon, while the japan enamel
bums off and allows the carbon to take
effect. E. S. Wheeleb.
ANNEALING STEEL AND OTHER METALS
Annealing' Steel
Cover the steel with fire clay, and heat
to a red heat. Then allow the steel to
cool over night in a furnace or forge. This
method will prove satisfactory when other
means fail. Samuel H. Owens.
Rockford, 111.
To Anneal Steel or Iron
Smear the iron or steel with tallow, and
heat slowly in a charcoal fire until it is a
dark red. Allow it to cool itself. This
method is all right for very hard tool
steel. R. B. Casey.
Schenectady, N. Y.
Annealing Steel
Heat slowly or rather evenly to a dull
red heat. Put it in a dark place or comer,
box or barrel, until all signs of red have
just disappeared, then quench in water,
taking care to hold it still. When anneal-
ing flat stock, heat evenly and thoroughly,
place between two planed pine boards on
an ash heap and cover with ashes. By
this method the charcoal is produced, so to
say, automatically. Wm. B. Beooks.
New Kensington, Pa.
To Anneal Finished Copper
To make a mixture for protecting finished
copper pieces which require annealing mix
to a thick consistency white cold water
paint and alcohol and apply to the copper
with a brush. Allow the mixture to dry
and then heat to a low red by dipping into
pure melted lead at the required tempera-
ture. Cool in air or water, preferably the
latter. L. C. Caer.
Lynn, Mass.
Annealing Steel Having Hard and Soft
Spots
To anneal steel having hard and soft
spots, remove the scale, and heat slowly and
evenly to a little above a dark red. Im-
merse In fresh water until almost cool.
Heat immediately to a dark rod and anneal
in the usual way. C. P. Emerson.
24
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Anneal Zinc
In working zinc tlie greatest loss is on
account of the zinc cracking and being too
brittle to liandle to advantage. It is sur-
prising to find laow very tew mechanics
understand the annealing or malleablizing
of same. The following will be found un-
failing : Heat in oil to about 500 degrees
F. and plunge In hot soda water, which
works the double operation of drawing the
zinc to the proper degree and at the same
time cleanses the surface from the oil.
Hardener.
METHODS FOR HEAT TREATMENT OP CAST IRON
Chilling Cast Iron
Mix together i/4 pint of oil of vitriol, 2
ounces of saltpeter, and 3 gallons of clean
water. Heat the casting, and plunge it in
this solution, keeping it there until cold.
Dayton, O. George E. Hetzlek.
To Soften Hard Cast Iron for Drilling
Heat to a cherry red, allowing it to lie
level in the Are. Then with a pair of cold
tongs put on a piece of sulphur a little less
than the size hole to be drilled. This will
soften the iron entirely through, providing
it is not too thick. O. E. VoRis.
Dayton, O.
Case-hardening Cast Iron
To successfully case-harden cast iron, the
pieces to be hardened should be heated to a
red heat, then rolled in a composition of
equal parts of prusslate of potash, sal-
ammoniac and saltpeter. All pulverized
and thoroughly mixed. Every part of the
casting must be covered by the composition
before plunging (red-hot) into a bath of 2
ounces prusslate of potash and 4 ounces
sal-ammoniac to each gallon of cold
water. A.
To Case-harden Cast Iron
To case-harden cast iron use a pot of
suitable size for the piece, packing it in
with 2/3 raw bone and 1/3 charcoal ground
to about the same size as the bone. Seal
the pot cover with fire-clay and place In a
furnace and run it about 5 hours. Then
take out the work and dip in oil or water.
E. W. Norton.
To Case-harden Cast Iron
I have successfully case-hardened cast
Iron, using the following receipt : Pulverize
and mix together equal weights of salt-
peter, prusslate of potash and sal-am-
moniac. Make a dipping solution by add-
ing to each quart of cold water 1 ounce
prusslate of potash and y^ ounce sal-am-
moniac Heat the cast iron pieces till red-
hot, roll them in the powder, and then
plunge them into the liquid.
Los Angeles. Cal. J. M. Menegus.
To Toughen and Surface Harden Cast
Iron
To toughen and surface harden small
cast iron machine parts, which are sub-
jected to wear, such as small gears, cams,
etc., heat to a dull red and quench in a
saturated solution of cyanide of potash and
water which should be kept as near boiling
point as possible. This can be accom-
plished best by putting the solution in an
iron pot near the fire in which the parts
are being heated. J. H. V.
To Harden Cast Iron
To harden cast iron take 1/2 pint vitriol
(sulphuric acid), 1 peck common salt, V3
pound saltpeter, 2 pounds alum, 14 pound
prussiate potasli, and V^ pound cyanide
potash, dissolve iu 10 gallons of water.
Heat iron to a clicrry red, dip, repeating
until hard enough. W. T. Sears.
Harrisburg, Pa.
Hardening Cast Iron
The following process can be used for
hardening cast iron whether rough or after
machining. The casting is first heated to
a cherry-red heat ; it is then dipped in a
bath which consists of a practically anhy-
drous acid of high heat-conducting power,
preferably sulphuric acid of a specific grav-
ity of from 1.8 to 1.0, to which is added
a suitable quantity of one or more of the
heavy metals or their compounds — such, for
example, as arsenic or the like. The pre-
ferable ingredients of the bath are sulphuric
acid of a specific gravity of approximately
1.84 and red arsenic in the proportions of
% pound of red arsenic crystals to 1 gal-
lon of sulphuric acid. The castings may be
cither suddenly dipped in the aforemen-
tioned mixture, and then taken out and
cooled in water, or they may be left in
the bath until cool. In preparing the bath,
when sulphuric acid and red arsenic are
used, better results are obtained when the
crystals are added to the sulphuric acid
and the bath is allowed to stand for about
a week before using. O. G.
POLISHING BRASS, NICKEL AND STEEL
25
To Anneal Iron Casting's
Iron castings that are too hard to ma-
chine or whiich have hard spots destructive
to tools may be nicely annealed by packing
closely in covered cast iron boxes with black
manganese, and heating to a temperature
of 1,500 or 1,600 degrees F., until thoroughly
heated through. A large bos packed in this
manner with a closely-fltted cover luted
with fii"e-clay must be heated for several
hours to raise the interior to the annealing
temperature. To be sure of getting the in-
terior heated properly, a number of witness
wires should be placed in the box, project-
ing through the cover where they can be
conveniently grasped with tongs and pulled
out one at a time to show how far the heat
has progressed. When the Interior has
reached a bright rod heat the box should be
hauled out and covered with ashes so that
It will cool slowly. It is claimed that hard
spots in gray iron castings can be softened
with black manganese by applying the man-
ganese and heating to a dull red, using a
blow-torch or any other convenient means
of heating. M. E. Canek.
POLISHING BRASS, NICKEL AND STEEL
Compound for Cleaning' Brass
To make a brass cleaning compound use
oxalic acid, 1 ounce ; rotten stone, 6
ounces ; enough whale oil and spirits of
turpentine of equal parts to mir and make
a paste. G. E. Hetzler.
Dayton, Ohio.
To Remove Bluing- from Tempered Steel
Plunge the blue hot article into a bath
of sulphuric acid 1 part, water 16 parts ;
then into a bath of lime and water (to
neutralize the acid) and rub it off quickly
with a dry cloth and Vienna lime. The
result will be a most beautiful polish.
Angelica, N. Y. F. H. Jackson.
Polish for Brass
An excellent liquid polish for articles of
brass may be made as follows : Add to-
gether and mix thoroughly, 100 parts of
powdered pumice stone, 2 parts oil of tur-
pentine, 12 parts soft soap and 12 parts of
fat, oil or lard. When thoroughly mixed,
add the mixture to a solution of 3 parts
oxalic acid dissolved in 40 parts of hot
water. Stir well until a uniform paste is
formed. Apply to surface of any article
of brass, by means of a cloth, rubbing it
in well. Remove remnant and polish with
a clean, dry cloth. T. E. O'Donnell.
Urbana, 111.
Compound for Folishing' Brass
To 2 quarts of rainwater add 3 ounces
of powdered rotten stone, 2 oimces of
pumice stone and 4 ounces oxalic acid.
Mix thoroughly together and let it stand a
day or two before using. Shake it before
using and after application polish the brass
with a dry woolen cloth or chamois skin.
Donald A. Hampson.
Middletown, N. Y.
Unchanging- Gloss on Cast Iron
The articles ar well scrubbed with a
diluted acid, dried and smoothed with a
file, wire brush or the like. Then they are
rubbed repeatedly with ordinary crude
petroleum and let dry each time ; finally
they are well rubbed with a hair brush,
which gives them a dark glossy appearance
which will stand heat and serve as pro-
tection against rusting. Articles once
treated in this manner need later on be
only rubbed with petroleum and brushed up
again. D.
Metal Polish
A good metal polish for gold, silver,
brass, nickel, etc., can be made by taking
powdered crocus and mixing enough kero-
sene oil with it to make a paste. This
paste must be rubbed very thoroughly over
the article to be polished. Then take a
flannel cloth and rub lightly and rapidly
until a brilliant polish is obtained.
Cleveland, O. Herbert C. Snow.
A Nickel Buff
For buflBng nickel work, there is nothing
that will give a luster equal to Vienna lime
composition. It can be made by the user,
but it is more satisfactory to buy it of the
manufacturer, as when homemade it air-
slacks very rapidly ; it is put up by the
makers in air-tight cans of about one
pound each, and this shape will keep until
used up. It is also a good buffing composi-
tion on brass or other metals whei-e there
is not much cutting down to do, as it will
cut down and color in one operation. If
there is much cutting down, go over the
work first with tripoli, then color with
rouge or lime. All these compositions are
put up in different grades for fast cutting,
and also for dry or greasy work.
Bridgeport, Conn. J. L. Lucas.
26
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Cleaning the Polished Farts of
Machinery
Stains of every description, such as may
result from dried oil, etc., may be easily
and effectively removed by the application
of alcohol. Calvin B. Ross.
Sringfield, O.
Metal Polish
Get two or three oyster or clam shells
and bum them on clear coal fire for fifteen
or twenty minutes ; then powder them in a
mortar. This malies a superior metal
polish. It Is the best thing I have ever
used for polishing silver and gold articles,
and if finely pulverized can be used on the
most delicate article without injury.
Joliet, til. Rex McKee.
Polish for Brass — Polish for Steel
A good polish for brass is made by put-
ting 2 ounces of sulphate of nickel and 2
ounces of nitric acid in an open vessel and
allowing them to mix thoroughly. Then
add water.
To make a polish for steel dissolve 2
ounces each of oxalic acid, pumice stone,
ammonia, and whiting in a quart of water.
New York. Herman Jonson.
Iiiquid Metal Polish
A good liquid metal polish for cold
smooth surfaces, either iron or brass, may
be made from the following ingredients :
To 3 parts of benzine add 2 oumces of
oxalic acid and 1% pound of silicate acid
powder. This polish may be made in large
quantities and set aside for further use
provided it is kept in tightly closed bot-
tles, and shaken well before using. Apply
the solution with a piece of cloth. When
dry, polish with a soft, clean cloth.
Urbana, 111. T. E. O'Donnell.
To Polish Nickel Plate
Apply rouge with a little fresh lard or
lard oil with a piece of buckskin. Rub the
bright parts, using as little of the rouge
and oil as possible. Wipe off with a clean
cloth slightly oiled. Wipe every day and
polish as often as necessary. This is also
an excellent preventative of rust.
Donald A. Hampson.
Middletown, N. Y.
Paste Metal Polish
A paste metal polish that is good for any
smooth surface, whether hot or cold, can
be obtained from the following ingredients,
which will make about 20 pounds of the
polish : 2 ounces of spermaceti, 4 ounces
of cake tallow, 10 star candles, 2% pints
of raw linseed oil, 2i^ pints of kerosene,
and 5 pounds of tripoli powder. Procure a
crock that will hold 3 or 4 gallons. Put
in the tallow, spermaceti and candles, and
melt over a slow fire. Then add the lin-
seed oil and Kerosene, and stir well. While
this mixture is still warm, remove from the
fire, and add the tripoli powder very
slowly while constantly stirring the mix-
ture. When all the powder has been added,
allow to cool. To use, apply with a soft
cloth, and after drying, remove the rem-
nant and rub the surface with a piece of
soft flannel. T. E. O'Donnell.
Urbana, 111.
PRODUCING BLUE OR BROWN COLORS ON STEEL
To Produce Brown Pinish on Steel
To produce the rich brown finish that is
commonly used on large guns use sulphate
of copper, 1 ounce ; sweet spirits nitre, 1
ounce ; distilled water, 1 pint.
Four coats are applied, allow several
hours to elapse between the successive
coats, brushing after each If necessary.
After the last coat rub down hard and
allow to dry 24 hours. This gives a red-
dish-brown color without gloss. By adding
arsenic to the mixture before last coat a
deeper hue is obtained. The polish is ob-
tained by means of a mixture of boiled oil,
beeswax, and turpentine, comparatively
thick. Rub in well with cotton cloth and
finally with the palm of the hand.
R. P. Perry.
To Blue Steel Without Heatings
To blue steel without heating it. connect
a small steam pipe to a wooden box so that
steam may flow continuously into It. Put a
bath of the following ingredients in the
box: Iron chloride (muriatic tincture of
steel), 1 ounce; alcohol (spirits of wine),
1 ounce; corrosive sublimate (mercury bi-
chloride), % ounce; aquafortis (strong
nitric acid), 14 ounce; blue stone (copper
sulphate), % ounce; and water, 1 quart.
The vapor arising from this mixture forms
a deposit on the articles. After having been
exposed to the vapors for a number of
hours, they are rubbed off with cloth, and
the operation repeated If a darker hue is
required. W. .1. Kaop.
BLACK COLORS ON IRON AND STEEL
27
Bluing- Iron or Steel
Mix one part clean sand with one part
powdered charcoal, heat the whole evenly
in a pan or convenient receptacle until the
piece, which has first received its finishing
polish and been covered by the mixture,
comes to the desired color. When cool,
wipe dry with cloth. Neralcm.
Stir until all the lumps are dissolved, and
then add the blue solution. Before apply-
ing, the surface to be blued should be
cleaned and brightened with emery cloth.
The enamel Ik best applied with a soft
brush. The solution may be put Into a
bottle and set aside for future use, provided
the bottle is securely corked.
Olney, 111. T. E. O'Do.nxell.
Steel-lilue Enamel
A steel-blue enamel suitable for applying
to steel and also other metals to give them
a steel-blue polished surface, may be made
in the following way : Dissolve 1 part of
borax in 4 parts of water. Macerate 5
parts bleached shellac in 5 parts of alcohol.
In a small quantity of alcohol dissolve
some methylene blue of sufficient amount to
give the color desired. Heat the first or
watery solution to boiling, and while con-
stantly stirring add the alcoholic solution.
To Blue Gun Barrels
To blue gun barrels and other pieces
dissolve 2 parts of crystallized chloride of
iron ; 2 parts solid chloride of antimony ; 1
part gallic acid in 4 or 5 parts of water ;
apply with a small sponge, and let dry in
the air. Repeat this two or three times,
then wash with water, and dry. Rub with
boiled linseed oil to deepen the shade. Re-
peat this until satisfied with the result.
New Britain, Conn. F. L. Engel.
PRODUCING BLACK COLOR ON IRON AND STEEL
To Give Iron a Black Color
To give iron a dead black color, clean
all grease and dirt from the metal, and
apply the following solution either with a
brush or by dipping. Mix together thor-
oughly 1 part bismuth chloride, 2 parts
mercuric bichloride, 1 part copper chloride,
6 parts hydrochloric acid, 5 parts alcohol
and 52 parts water. As soon as these
parts are thoroughly mixed, the compound
is ready for use. After applying the com-
pound, the iron is placed in boiling water
and allowed to remain for one-half hour, the
water being kept at the same temperature.
Repeat this operation until the color is
deep enough, then fix the color by placing
the iron for a short time in a bath of
boiling oil. After removing, heat in an
oven until the surplus oil is all driven off.
Urbana, 111. T. E. O'Do.nnell.
Black Oxide Coat for Steel
A fine black coat is produced on steel if
treated in the followuig manner : An
oxidized sk^n is first produced in some suit-
able manner on the surface of the steel ;
this is converted into black oxide by means
of hot water and continued until the coat
of oxide is thick enough. Then the articles
are dipped in lukewarm water to remove
any acid or salty particles, and then some
olive oil is poured over the whole. D.
Black Finish for Steel
The pieces to be blackened should first
be polished with No. 120 emery cloth. After
polishing, the surfaces should be cleaned
carefully, and then the work placed over
the fire and drawn evenly to a second blue.
Then, the work is dipped in lard or sperm
oil, from which it is immediately removed,
and all loose oil shaken off. This prevents
the forming of blisters. An old piece of
rubber, for instance a piece of old garden
hose, is then placed on the fire, and as it
bums, the work is held over the flame and
smoke that comes from the rubber, until it
is covered with a thick coat of black soot.
The work is then removed from the fire,
and permitted to cool off slowly. When
cool, it is rubbed with an oiled cloth. All
this must be done in one heat.
Tarrytown, N. Y. E. W. Norton.
To Blacken Articles which are not
Soldered
Heat the article to a low heat and dip
into a solution of nitrate of copper, made
by dissolving copper in nitric acid. Then
heat the piece dipped over a spirit lamp or
Bunsen burner until from greenish color it
finally turns black. H. A. Sherwood.
Bridgeport, Conn.
28
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Make Black Marks on Graduated
Surfaces
The scale is varnished over with a little
thin shellac varnish, so as to sink into all
the cuts. When this is dry, a black var-
nish of lampblack and shellac is spread on,
so as to fill all the cuts. This is allowed
to thoroughly dry. When hard, the work
is driven in the lathe, and the superfluous
varnish polished off with fine flour emery
cloth until only that in the cuts is left.
This gives a very distinct marking and fine
finish to scale. F. II. Jackson.
Angelica, N. Y.
LACQUERS AND ENAMELS FOR STEEL
£uainel for Iron or Steel
Make an enamel by mixing 2 ounces of
Iiacquering- Effect on Polished Steel
Mutton suet burnt on a polished surface
produces a brilliant black which is very
lasting. H. T. Millar.
Manchester, Eng.
Bronzing- Fluid for Steel
To obtain a light bronzing fluid use
nitric acid, 6 parts ; nitric ether, 5 parts ;
alcohol, 5 parts ; muriate of iron, 5 parts.
Mix thoroughly and then add 10 parts sul-
phate of copper dissolved in 50 parts of
water. O. G.
Bnamel Glaze for Coating- Iron Fans
To prepare an enamel glaze for coating
iron pans use flint glass, 1.30 parts ; car-
bonate of soda, 20.5 parts; boracic acid, 12
parts. Dry at a temperature of 212 de-
grees and then heat to redness and anneal,
that is, cool down very slowly.
Birmingham, Eng. W. R. Bowers.
burnt umber with 1 quart boiled linseed
oil, heating, and then adding 1 ounce
asphaltum. Keep hot until thoroughly
mixed, and thin with a small quantity of
turpentine. Have the surface of the parts
to be enameled thoroughly cleaned, and
apply the enamel with a camel's hair brush,
and allow it to set. Then place in an
oven and bake for 6 hours, at a tempera-
ture of 250 degrees P. When cool, rub
down with steel wool, and then apply the
finishing coat of the desired color, and
allow to bake for 6 or 8 hours. Rub down,
when cool, with a soft cloth, then varnish
and bake again at 200 degrees F. The
heating and cooling should be done gradu-
ally each time so as not to crack the
enamel. Black enamel usually requires a
higher degree of temperature than any
other kind, or about 300 degrees F.
Urbana, III. T. E. O'Donnell.
PRODUCING COATINGS OF COPPER OR BRASS ON IRON
To Brass Small Articles
To brass small articles of iron or steel
drop them into a quart of water and %
ounce each of sulphate of copper and pro-
tochloride of tin. Stir the articles in this
solution until desired color is obtained.
R. M.
Brassing- Iron
Iron ornaments are covered with copper
or brass by properly preparing the surface
so as to remove all organic matter which
would prevent adhesion, and then plunging
them into melted brass, or copper. A thin
coating is thus spread over the iron, and It
admits of being polished or burnished. The
better the article is finished and cleaned be-
fore dipping, the better will be the final
result. R. B. Casey.
Schenectady, N. Y.
Coating Iron or Steel
Iron or steel may be given a permanent
coating of yellow brass by using a flux of
boracic acid and then dipping into a pot
of melted spelter, afterwards wiping off the
article while still hot. The electro-plating
process, however, is the best for this pur-
pose. A coating of copper should then first
be deposited on the steel, the same as if it
were to be nickel-plated, and then followed
with an electro-plating of yellow brass.
Cleveland, Ohio. L. Miller.
Copper Solution that will Color on Oily
Steel
To make a copper solution that will color
on oily steel, take i/4 ounce sulphate copper
(blue vitriol), 4 ounces water, 1 table-
spoonful oil of vitriol (commercial sulphu-
ric acid) and dissolve the sulphate of cop-
per in the water, then slowly add the oil
of vitriol a few drops at a time, shaking
well at each addition. Keep the mixture
away from the face when adding the oil of
vitriol ; if the oil of vitriol is all poured
in the bottle at once the stuff will boil and
shatter the bottle, as I learned by experi-
ence. F. W. B.
FINISHING AND COATING PROCESSES
29
To Prepare Iron or Brass for Laying'
Out Work
To coat the finished surface of iron and
steel with a copper film to facilitate laying
out work, make a solution of sulphate of
copper and apply to the work with a piece
of clean waste ; the copper film shows up
the lines very plainly. This solution can
also be used on brass by simply sprinkling
iron filings on the brass surface, and then
applying the copper sulphate solution. The
surface to be coated should in all cases be
free from oil, grease, etc.
Dayton, O. Oliver E. Voris.
To Coat Iron with Copper
Polish the iron by rubbing it well with
cream of tartar, and afterward with char-
coal powder, and place the metal in hydro-
chloric acid diluted with three times its
volume of water, in which a few drops of
a solution of sulphate of copper is poured.
After a few minutes withdraw the iron and
rub with a piece of cloth, then replace it
in the solution, to which add another por-
tion of sulphate of copper. By following
this plan the layer of cooper may be
increased at pleasure. Finally, immerse the
iron in a solution of soda, wipe clean and
polish with chalk. The coating thus ob-
tained will be as firm and durable as that
deposited by the electrotype process.
Pittsburg, Pa. U. Peters.
Copper Coating Solution
A copper coating solution for use when
laying out work on Iron or steel which I
have found more satisfactory than the or-
dinary blue vitriol is a mixture of saturated
solution of zinc chloride with a very little
copper sulphate added, say a half-dozen
drops of copper sulphate to a spoonful of
zinc chloride solution. When a piece of
steel is rubbed with waste moistened in this
solution it produces a bright copper surface
that does not easily rub off.
Cleveland, Ohio. Milton Burgess.
Copper Plating Cast Iron
In the process of covering cast iron with
a coating of copper the pieces of cast iron
are first placed in a bath made of 50 parts
of hydrochloric acid, specific gravity 1.1,
and one part '^f nitric acid ; they are next
immersed in a second bath comprised of
10 parts nitric acid and 10 parts chloride
of copper dissolved in 80 parts of hydro-
chloric acid, specific gravity 1.1. The
pieces are then rubbed with a woolen cloth
and immersed again until the desired thick-
ness of copper is deposited. To give a
bronze appearance the copper surface Is
rubbed with a mixture of 4 parts sal-am-
moniac and one part each of oxalic acid
and acetic acid dissolved In 30 parts of
water. A. L. Monrad.
New Haven, Conn.
MISCELLANEOUS FINISHING AND COATING
PROCESSES FOR IRON AND STEEL
Tinning' Cast Iron
To tin cast-iron articles, dissolve chlor-
ide of tin in water until the solution Is
fully saturated ; this saturated solution Is
to be thinned down when needed for use,
by ten times its volume of water. The
articles which are to be tinned are to be
wrapped around lightly with zinc sheet or
wire and left in the solution ten to fifteen
minutes. On removing the articles they
are to be dried in sawdust, after washing
well with clean water and brushing them
with a wire bru-sh, and then polished with
prepared chalk. Robert Grimshaw.
Hannover, Germany.
Coloring- Steel
Having occasion to darken, polished spots
on case-hardened parts in order to make the
entire pieces appear uniform, I immersed
them for about 20 seconds in a solution
made as follows : Eight cubic centimeters
of nitric acid and 40 cubic centimeters of
water, same being measured by a druggist.
The pieces I refer to were case-hardened in
the usual manner (packed in bone dust).
After immersing as above stated, rinse off
in clear running water and you will not
be able to distinguish the difference be-
tween the part which was formerly bright
and the dark portion. Harry Asii.
Chicago, 111.
Wasli for Whitening- Metal Work for
Laying- Out
Mix whiting and white lead with boiled
linseed oil to a thick paste : add some
japan dryer, and thin with benzine or
gasoline. This makes a fine preparation
for whitening sheet Iron and other work
previous to laying out, as any lines drawn
on the surface show up very distinctly. It
also makes a very good stenciling or mark-
ing paint. A. D. Knauel.
Moline, 111.
30
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Wliiting- Surfaces for Layingr Out Work
For laying out work on structural iron or
castings a better way than chalking the
surface is to mix whiting with benzine or
gasoline to the consistency of paint, and
then paint it with a brush ; in a few mln
utes the benzine or gasoline will evaporate,
leaving a white surface ready to scribe lines
on. Albert D. Knauel.
Moline, 111.
To Imitate Case-hardening'
Occasionally it becomes necessary to
darken polished or ground parts to imitate
case-hardening ; in order to accomplish this
result use this mixture : 1 part nitric acid
and 20 parts water. Immerse the article
to be treated about 20 seconds, then rinse
with clear water. A splendid result can be
accomplished by following the above in-
structions. Harry Ash.
Chicago, 111.
Cold Tinning Process for Use on rin-
ished Work in Iron, Brass or Steel
To tin by cold process finished work in
iron, brass, or steel such as pins, tacks,
wire goods, etc., put twenty pounds of
stock well cleaned in sawdust, in a deep
pan (14x20x 3 inches is a good size) hav-
ing a false bottom of zinc. Heat to the
boiling point a mixture of ^4 ounce of sul-
phuric acid and 2 ounces of tin crystals
(stannous chloride) and pour over the
work. Let it stand ten minutes and then
Btir well, using a rake, and then let it re-
main ten minutes longer. Repeat the pro-
cess and if two coats are not enough, give
it a third coat. The zinc bottom must be
washed twice a day, as rusty or oily work
will not tin satisfactorily.
To polish the work, put in a wooden
tumbling barrel and pour in a water pall
full of strong soap and water. Let it tum-
ble fifteen or twenty minutes, according to
the nature of the work, and then tumble
for a few minutes in hot sawdust to
dry it. J. L. Ldcas.
Bridgeport, Conn.
To Produce a Mat Surface on Steel
To make a non-reflecting or mat surface
on small steel articles such as screws, small
steel stampings, etc., which at the same
time shall be perfectly rust-proof, proceed
as follows : Mix 2 ounces of powdered tar-
tar with 20 ounces of water. Put the arti-
cles to be treated into this mixture in an
earthen pot, and boll until they become
yellow. Then place the articles in a tray
with a solution of sulphate of copper (blue
vitriol) ; take out when copperized and put
in a tray with sulphur-ammoniac. When
black, take out and rinse off with water.
After the rinsing has been done carefully,
mix a quantity of clean, very dry, beech-
wood sawdust with sufficient sweet oil, to
render it slightly oily. Then thoroughly
mix and rub in some powdered graphite, but
only enough graphite should be added to
give the whole a blackish appearance.
Throw into the sawdust the steel parts to
be blackened, but not more at a time than
about one-third of the quantity of the mix-
ture. Put the whole in a small coflCee roast-
er such as is used in private houses, and
after shaking well, roast the contents over
a gentle flame, in constant motion, until the
sawdust is burned to charcoal. The parts
are then ready to be taken out and cooled.
The roaster should be tightly closed during
the roasting operation.
It is not necessary to lacquer the parts
as the color put on in this manner will not
wear off by ordinary handling. The parts
will have a nice mat surface suitable for
articles used in photographic manufacture
and art goods. The formula used was a
secret for many years and was successfully
used by the inventor. Max J. Ochbs.
Cleveland, Ohio.
TREATING BRASS CASTINGS
Malleable Brass
Brass which possesses malleability in a
high degree can be obtained by alloying 57
parts of copper with 43 of zinc.
Pittsburg, Pa. U. Peters.
To Pickle Brass Castings
An excellent mixture to use for cleaning
and brightening brass castings is as fol-
lows : Two parts, by measure, of nitric
acid, and three parts of sulphuric acid. To
each quart of the acid mixture made up,
add one pint of common salt and stir until
dissolved. The solution may be held In any
suitable receptacle, say, of glazed earthen-
ware. It is only necessary to provide a
vessel large enough for the immersion of
the largest piece to be dipped. The pieces
are simply dipped and removed at once, and
then rinsed in clear water. This solution
is intended only for cleaning and brighten-
ing the castuigs, and not for imparting any
color. T. E. O'DONNELL.
Urbana, 111.
COATED SURFACES ON BRASS, BRONZE. ETC.
31
Flux for Brass
One ounce common soap, Vi ounce quick-
lime, V4, ounce saltpeter. Mix Into a ball
and place in a crucible when lifted out of
the furnace. This is sufiBcient for about 50
pounds of metal. W. R. Bowers.
Birmingham, Eng.
To Clean Brass Castinifs
Brass work that has become dirty or
corroded in service may be cleaned in the
following wash : 1/3 part nitric acid, 2/3
part sulphuric acid, and y^ pound common
salt to each 10 gallons of solution. Dip
the castings in the solution for half a
minute and then rinse in boiling water and
dry in pine sawdust. E. W. Bowen.
Denver, Col.
Busting- for Molds for Brass Work
To produce light castings of brass and
gun-metal with a clean face and fine skin,
first dust the mold with pea meal and on
top of same add a slight dust of plumbago ;
for heavy castings dust only with plum-
bago. W. II. Bowers.
Birmingham, Eng.
Cleaning- Solution for Brass
To make a cleaning solution for brass
work mix li^ ounce nitric acid. 1 dram
saltpeter, 2 ounces rain water. Let the
mixture stand a few hours and then the
articles to be cleaned may be dipped in
quickly and then rinsed off and dried.
R. M. K.
PRODUCING COATED SURFACES ON BRASS, BRONZE,
COPPER, ZINC AND TIN
Blacking- Brass
For blacking brass I find nothing superior
to chloride of antimony. The articles
should be thoroughly cleaned and polished,
then immersed in the solution for a short
time, and dried over a spirit lamp ; then
brush with a black lead brush.
Angelica, N. Y. F. H. Jackson.
Por Bluing Small Brass Articles by
Immersion
To blue small brass articles by immersion,
use chloride of antimony, 1 ounce ; water,
20 ounces ; hydrochloric acid, 3 ounces.
Place the solution in an earthen jar and
suspend the piece in this bath until blue,
then wash and dry in sawdust. The pieces
should be warmed first.
To blue steel without heat, apply nitric
acid ; wipe off the acid clean, oil and
burnish. L. E. Mdncy.
Syracuse, N. Y.
To Blacken Brasswork for Instruments
To give a dull black surface to brass-
work, paint it with a mixture made of a
thimbleful of lampblack, to which is added
4 or 5 spots of gold size. Mix well with
a knife on a flat slate until the whole is
about as thick as putty. Only put sufficient
gold size to make the lampblack stick to-
gether, as too much will make a bright in-
stead of a dull black. Add about twice the
volume of turpentine to the mixture, stir
well with a camel's hair brush, and apply
to the brasswork. Jos. M. Stabel.
Rochester, N. Y.
To Copper Brass for Laying Out -Work
To apply a copper coloring upon brass for
laying out work, put a few drops of the
ordinary coppering solution upon the brass
and then dip a piece of iron or steel into
the solution and touch the brass.
Providence, R. I. Oscar J. Beale.
Frosting- Brass Work
Boil the brass In caustic potash, rinse in
clean water, and dip in nitric acid till all
oxide is removed ; then wash quickly, dry
in warm boxwood sawdust, and lacquer
while warm. This will give brass an orna-
mental finish. F. H. Jackson.
Angelica, N. Y.
Tinning Wash for Brass Work
To prepare a tinning wash for brass
work, use 6 pounds of white argil (potter's
clay), 4 gallons of soft water, and 5 pounds
tin shavings. Boil the brass work in this
solution for 15 or 20 minutes.
Birmingham, Eng. W. R. Bowers.
Black Bronze for Brass
Dip the article, cleaned bright, in aqua-
fortis (nitric acid) ; rinse the acid off
with clean water, and place it in the fol-
lowing mixture until it turns black : Hy-
drochloric acid, 12 pounds; sulphate of
iron, 1 pound, and pure white arsenic, 1
pound. It is then taken out, rinsed in clean
water, dried in sawdust, polished with black
lead and lacquered with green lacquer.
Rochester, N. Y. Jos. M. Sxabel.
32
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Silver White Bronze
To prepare silver white bronzing powder,
melt together one ounce each of bismuth
and tin, adding one ounce of mercury.
When cool, pulverize into a fine powder.
Hoboken, N. J. R. P. Perry.
Mat Sip for Brass
To make a mat dip for brass, mix 1 part
sulphuric acid in 1 to 2 parts of nitric
acid and 1 part sulphate of zinc. Let the
mixture stand 24 hours, and use hot. More
or less nitric acid gives a fine or coarse
effect, as may be preferred.
Bridgeport, Conn. J. L. Lucas.
To Produce a Gray Color on Brass
First clean off with alcohol, polish the
surface to an even finish, making sure that
grease or finger marks are removed. Then
immerse in a solution of one ounce of ar-
senic chloride to one pint of water until
the desired color is obtained. Wash in
clean, warm water, dry in boxwood saw-
dust, warm, lacquer with a thin pale solu-
tion of bleached shellac in methyl alcohol,
using a broad camel's hair brush.
Donald A. IIampson.
Middletown, N. Y.
Solution for Bluing* Brass
A suitable solution for bluing brass is
prepared by dissolving 1 ounce of antimony
chloride in 20 ounces of water and adding
3 ounces of pure hydrochloric acid. Any
amount of solution may be made up, pro-
vided the different ingredients are in the
above proportion. To -apply, place the
warmed brass article into the solution until
it has turned blue. Then remove it and
wash with clean water, after which dry in
sawdust. T. E. O'DONNELL.
Urbana, 111.
To Coat Brass or Copper with Tin
To tin brass or copper melt 5 pounds of
tin and pour same into a tank containing
one ounce of cream of tartar in about 8
gallons of water. This must be done a
drop at a time to subdivide the tin so as
to give a larger surface for the cream of
tartar to act upon, and have the bottom of
tank covered with tin. Then put a fire
under the tank and place parts to be
tinned in the tank and let them boll for
about one hour, or until they are coated
sufficiently. H. C.
To Copper Brass for Iiaying* Out Work
To apply a copper coating on brass for
laying out purposes, apply the ordinary
copper solution in the same manner as used
on iron or steel. Then, while the brass Is
still wet with this solution, cover the en-
tire surface with a thin layer of fine cast
Iron dust from the drill press. Brush off
the cast iron dust, and the surface will
have a nice copper coating. C. S.
Brlg'ht Dip for Brass, Copper and
Bronze
A bright dip for brass, copper and bronze
may be produced as follows : Make a solu-
tion of 100 parts by weight of nitric acid,
50 parts sulphuric acid, 1 part soot, and 1
part salt. The salt and soot make the dip
work smoothly. The article should be
dipped in this solution, well washed, and
dried in sawdust to prevent streaking.
Bridgeport, Conn. S. 11. Sweet.
To Coat Zinc Sheet Black for Templet
Work
A receipt which I have found very suc-
cessful for coating zinc or tin sheets black
for templet work, is the following, taken
from Brown & Sharpe's book on gearing,
page 85 :
"Dissolve 1 ounce of sulphate of copper
(blue vitriol) in about 4 ounces of water,
and add about one-half teaspoonful of nitric
acid. Apply a thin coating with a piece
of waste." Alex. C. Labak.
Chattanooga, Tenn.
Silver Solxition for Electro-plating-
Put together, into a glass, 1 ounce silver,
made thin, and cut into strips, 2 ounces
best nitric acid, and V^ ounce clean rain-
water. If the solution does not begin to
act at once, add a little more water, and
continue to add a very little at a, time
until it does. In the event that it starts off
well, but stops, before the silver is dis-
solved, it generally may be started up
again by adding a little more water. When
the solution is entirely effected, add one
quart of warm rain water and a large
tablespoonful of table salt. Shake well and
let settle ; then proceed to pour off and
wash through other waters. When no
longer acid to the taste, put in li^ ounce
cyanuret potassa and a quart pure rain
water. After standing about twenty-four
hours it will be ready for use.
St. Louis, Mo. Samuel Sxrobel.
COATED SURFACES ON BRASS, BRONZE, ETC.
33
To Blacken Zinc for I^aying- Out
The following receipt is often used for
coating iron or steel, but it is not generally
known among many of the craft that it
may be used to prepare zinc for sketching,
giving the zinc a dark coating. Dissolve 1
ounce sulphate of copper in 4 ounces water,
add % teaspoonful of nitric acid and apply
a thin coating to the zinc with a piece of
waste. If used for iron or steel the work
shojid then be rubbed dry. Care should be
taken in handling and using the mixture, as
it rusts iron and steel badly if left on.
U. M.
Becoloring' Bronze
Bronze may be renovated and recolored
by mixing one part muriatic acid and two
parts water, and applying the diluted acid
to the bronze articles with a cloth. Before
applying the acid the articles should be
cleaned thoroughly from all grease. After
having applied the acid let the article dry,
and then polish with sweet oil.
E. W. Norton.
Acid Dip for Bronze Castings
A very suitable and effective acid dip
for bronze castings may be made up in the
following manner. The constituents re-
quired are : One gallon pale aqua fortis,
1 gallon oil vitriol, 4 quarts of water, and
8 ounces of rock salt. In mixing the acids
add the vitriol to the aqua fortis, after
which the water should be introduced, by
pouring it very slowly into the acid solu-
tion. Water should never be poured into
the acids separately. When the water and
acids have become thoroughly mixed, the
salt may then be added. The solution be-
comes quite warm after mixing, which is
a good time to add the salt, as the heated
solution dissolves the salt readily. • After
mixing, the solution should stand from 10
to 12 hours before using. It is best to
make a large quantity of the solution if
much dipping is to be done. To secure the
best results it is necessary that the solu-
tion be kept at as low a temperature as
possible, hence it is advisable to place the
receptacle in a tank of cold water, or what
is better, place it in running water.
Urbana, III. T. E. O'Donnell.
To Blacken Tin for laying Out
Very often in the shop and also in the
drawing room we want to lay out some
piece of work for trial on something which
will show fine accurate marks, but cannot
obtain a piece of sheet zinc. I have used
something which is just as good and more
likely to be at hand, and that is a sheet of
bright tin plate rubbed over with a piece
of waste dipped in a sulphate of copper
solution. This is made of water and blue
stone with oil of vitriol added to the pro-
portion 1 of vitriol to 50 water. Rub the
tin thoroughly, keeping the waste wet with
plenty of fresh solution and soon you will
see spots of brass, then of copper, then a
dark gray, nearly black, which wipe dry,
and you will have an ideal surface to lay
out on.
The above is a kink which I have found
very useful. F. W. Bach.
Ilion, N. Y.
To Blacken Brass for Templet "Work
and Other Purposes
The brass must be thoroughly cleaned,
and then is heated slowly over a charcoal
Are. care being taken not to allow the brass
to touch the charcoal, or indeed not to al-
low any sparks from the charcoal to come
in contact with the brass, as it will cause
red spots. As soon as the brass is slightly
red, dip it into nitric acid and reheat, just
short of red. Rub strongly with a stiff
bristle brush and clean with a greasy cloth.
This gives a fairly permanent dead black
finish. p. H. Oto.
Antique Brass Finish Shop Receipt
It is comparatively easy to get a nice
antique finish on copper or copper-plated ar-
ticles, but the treatment of brass is more
difficult. Most of the processes used do
not give a nice, clear black, but instead, a
dull or grayish black coating. At one time,
when visiting the shop of the Puritan Mfg»
Co., Decatur, 111., I noted the beautiful jet
black of the brass articles made up with
the antique finish, and upon expressing my
curiosity as to how it was obtained, was
offered the formula. The articles are first
dipped into a strong, hot solution of potash,
and then well rinsed in water ; they are then
immersed in a mixture of one part sulphuric
and two parts nitric acid, and instantly
liased in clear, cold water. Next they are
placed in a bath consisting of two ounces
acetate of lead and one ounce hyposulphite
of soda to each gallon of water in the tank.
This solution must be almost boiling when
used. The brass is moved around in this
until the desired black is obtained, then
rinsed and dried. When dry and cool spot
on a rag wheel. If brass doesn't turn black
enough in above solution add just a little
more lead. Ethan Viall.
Decatur, III.
34
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Iiacquer for Brass
I have found that the following process
makes a very good lacquer for the brass
parts of fire instruments, and that It re-
quires but little labor to prepare. Make
four alcoholic solutions in separate bottles
of each of the following gums : Unbleached
shellac, dragon's blood, annatto, and gam-
boge, in the proportions of about one ounce
of the gum to a pint of alcohol. Keep
these solutions about a week in a warm
place, on a hot water or steam radiator, for
instance, shaking the bottles frequently.
It will be found that the alcohol will not
dissolve all of the gum, but that within
half an hour after shaking, a precipitate
will settle on the bottom of the bottle,
leaving a perfectly transparent but highly
colored liquid above, which deepens in color
from day to day. Decant this off, and
alter through cloth, placing the liquids in
tightly corked bottles. A word of caution
should be given in the case of shellac.
Most readers of Machinery are familiar
with the yellow opaque shellac varnish of
the pattern-maker. This is useless. But if
the above proportions are used, and the so-
lution kept warm, say 130 to 180 degrees
F., a light flcjculent precipitate will settle
out, leaving a transparent wine-colored
liquid above. It is this liquid which must
he used. The four solutions should now be
mixed. Equal parts of each give a rich
golden yellow. After mixing, the solutions
should be boiled down to about one-third of
the volume, great care being used not to
ignite the alcohol. Heat a piece of cast
iron over a Bunsen burner, and as soon as
this is hot, turn out the burner and place
the solution on the iron and allow it to
'boil. When it ceases to boil, repeat the
Process. When cold this solution may be
applied with a brush to the brass in the
usual way, the brass having been polished
with jewelers' fine emery paper, and slightly
warmed. Though slightly harder to apply
than the commercial lacquers, it possesses
none of the disagreeable odor of the banana
oil which they contain. 11. C. Lokd.
Columbus, Ohio.
Producing' Black Nickel Coating's on
Metal Surfaces
The following solution for depositing a
black nickel coating on metal surfaces Is
given by the Brass World. The solution
consists of the following constituents :
water, 1 gallon ; double nickel salts, 8
ounces ; ammonium sulphocyanate 2
ounces; zinc sulphate, 1 ounce. If tlic
zinc sulphate is not in the form of white
crystals, but is white and dry, then only
Yj ounce should be used. The double nickel
salts are dissolved in the water, and then
the ammonium sulphocyanate is added.
After this has been done, the zinc sulphate
is introduced. The solution is used at its
ordinary temperature, but in winter should
not be allowed to get colder than 60 de-
grees F., and works best at about 80 de-
grees F. Ordinary nickel anodes are em-
ployed, with a surface several times that
of the work to be plated. The work is
cleaned carefully, preparatory to the plat-
ing. The black nickel deposit may be put
directly on steel, brass, copper, German
silver, or bronze, but it is preferable to
first flash the work in a hot copper solu-
tion, then in a white nickel solution, and
finally deposit the black nickel. For cheap
work, the copper and white nickel deposits
may be dispensed with, but the black nickel
is less apt to peel off if put on the white
nickel. The black nickel is deposited with
a weak current. Best results are obtained
with a current from 1/3 to % of a volt.
The deposition should be allowed to
stand for an hour or more if a heavy de-
posit is desired. When the article comes
from the black nickel solution, it will be
found that it is of a gray or brown shade.
While this disappears to a considerable ex-
tent when lacquered, the color is not a
dead black. By using a dip consisting of
1 gallon of water, 12 ounces of iron per-
chloride, and 1 ounce of muriatic acid, a
dead black color is produced. All nickel
deposits should be lacquered after dipping.
The following causes of difficulties should
be guarded against : If the black nickel
deposit has spear-shaped markings on It
and is partly white, too high a voltage has
been used. If the deposit flakes off after
standing for some time, too strong a cur-
rent has been used, or the work has not
been clean. If the deposit is too heavy, it
is also apt to flake ofiC. If the deposit is
still brown or gray after it comes from the
dip, the dip is old, or the article has not
remained in the dip long enough. If,
although the voltage is right (less than
one volt), the deposit is streaked, the bath
has become acid ; add carbonate of nickel
(plastic) to neutralize the acid. Use plenty
of anode surface and old nickel anodes if
possible. If the edges of the deposit are
removed in the dip, the dip is too hot, or
the black nickel was not deposited a suffi-
ciently long time. If the surface is iri-
descent after lacquering, the lacquer is too
thin.
COATED SURFACES ON BRASS. BRONZE. ETC.
35
A Gun-metal Finish
To make an imitation gun-metal finish
■by electrical process take % pound of the
double nickel salts to a gallon, and dis-
solve in boiling water. After the solution
has cooled, add ammonia until it is slightly
alkalized, then add sulphuret cyanide of
potassium, about % ounce to a gallon.
If a darker finish is required add more
sulphuret. This will work excellently on
all metals and they will come from the
solution with a very high luster. If the
work has been buffed and dipped before
plating, it will require no further finishing,
and should then be lacquered. It should
be run with a very mild current from three
■ to four minutes. J. L. Lucas.
Bridgeport, Conn.
To Bronze Yellow Brass
To produce a bronze finish on rough yel-
low brass castings, mix equal parts of nitric
acid, sulphuric acid and water ; the nitric
acid and water should be mixed first and
the sulphuric acid added slowly. Dip the
yellow brass castings into boiling water a
moment, then in the acid solution, then
quickly back into the boiling water, and
rinse thoroughly in clean water. Dry in
pine sawdust. The castings must be per-
fectly free from soldering solutions, etc., or
stains are liable to appear. This method
gives a finish similar to gas fixtures, etc.,
and may be rendered very permanent by
•coating with a transparent lacquer.
I. W. Antano.
To Plate Porous Work
In the plating of brass or cast iron, or
other porous metals, there is more or less
trouble with what is called "spotting out"
which is caused by the cyanide getting into
the pores, and it has been hard to find a
satisfactory remedy for this trouble. The
following can be used with good results :
First, give the work a good stiff coat of
nickel, then put it through a brass solu-
tion without buflSng. After the required
deposit has been obtained, rinse it in cold
water, and then hang in boiling water, as
long as possible without tarnishing. Then
hang it in a good hot oven until thoroughly
dried out, after which buff and hang for a
few moments in gasoline, and put it in the
oven again. You will find this will cure
a great deal of the trouble experienced on
that class of work. This is a valuable
process and one never before printed.
Bridgeport, Conn. J. L. Lucas.
Silver Paste for Brass
This paste is used for slivering the scales
on thermometers and the dials for clocks,
aneroid barometers, steam gages, etc.
Put in an ordinary tea cup or other suit-
able vessel, 1 ounce of silver — coin silver
will do, but pure silver is better and
cheaper. Pill the cup half full of nitric
acid, and place it in a vessel containing
water, which must be heated. As the acid
heats, it throws off fumes in shape of a
brown smoke, very poisonous. When the
smoke ceases to appear, add a teaspoonful
of common table salt, and when the fumes
caused by this cease, take the cup from the
heat immediately and fill slowly to the top
with cold water. Allow the white powder
that will now be found in the cup to settle
to the bottom and then slowly decant the
liquid. When almost empty, fill again with
cold water, and decant again, repeating this
process at least half a dozen times. Mix
the powder (commercial chloride of silver
will do instead) with 10 pounds table salt,
and V2 pound cream of tartar. Mix thor-
oughly dry, then add enough cold water to
make a paste. Add the water slowly so as
not to get in too much. Keep in a covered
vessel and from the light.
The graduation marks, figures, and let-
ters, stamped or cut into the work may be
tilled with ordinary roofing tar, which is
applied by heating the work enough to melt
the tar. Most of the surplus tar may be
scraped off with the edge of a card, or any
cardboard handy. This filling stands bet-
ter than sealing wax, and will not dissolve
and blur when lacquered if the lacquer is
put on properly. Another filling is japan,
which is applied with a brush cold, and
cleaned with a card as before. It is then
baked, and when the work is finished, the
filling will be found to be glossy and per-
manent and will not be dissolved by any
lacquer or heat.
The piece to be silvered should be thor-
oughly cleaned with emery cloth or paper
just before applying the paste, which is to
be put on by hand and rubbed well in the
surface of the work. After this is done,
the work should have a dirty, silvery yellow
tinge, which will be brightened by rubbing
with a dry mixture of % pound cream of
tartar and 10 pounds salt well mixed. The
work should be thoroughly washed to clear
it of the surplus salt and then dried in saw-
dust and lacquered. I have used this meth-
od for silvering over 30,000 steam gage and
clock dials, and many other dials and
scales ; hence I know it Is all right.
Brooklyn, N. Y. J. S. Gordon.
36
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Blacken Brass
Should it be desired to change the color
of an article made of brass to a dark
bronze or black, the following compound
will be found to give good results, espe-
clnlly if the metal has a polished surface.
First make up a solution of 120 grains of
nitrate of silver and 5 ounces of water ;
then dissolve 120 grains of copper nitrate
in 5 ounces of water. Mix the two solu-
tions together in equal parts, making a
quantity sufficient to immerse the articles.
Clean the brass articles to be blackened
thoroughly in hot soda water, and then dip
in the above compound. Remove and heat
in an oven until the proper shade of color
appears. T. E. O'Donnell.
Urbana, 111.
For Coloring' Brass Blue Black
To color brass blue black make a solu-
tion of ammonia and copper carbonate in
the approximate proportion of 10 parts of
ammonia and one part of copper carbonate
by weight. Shake the mixture well until
the copper carbonate is dissolved, adding
the copper carbonate to the ammonia little
by little until the ammonia will not dis-
solve any more ; then add a volume of clear
water equal to about one-fourth of the
mixture. The brass to be colored should
be polished bright, either with fine dry
emery cloth, taking care not to touch the
polished surface with the fingers, or made
clean and bright by dipping in a strong
solution of caustic soda. Before dipping
agitate the compound thoroughly and then
immerse the pieces of brass, keeping them
in motion two or three minutes, rinse off
in cleaa water, and dry in sawdust or clean
cotton waste. When not in use the solu-
tion should be kept in a tightly-corked bot-
tle. I have used it on instrument work
very successfully. H. M. Webek.
Cambridge, Mass.
RUST REMOVERS AND PREVENTATIVES
To Prevent Bzposed Iron Busting^
To prevent iron, which is exposed to
moisture, from rusting, paint over with a
coat of Portland liquid cement. This is
very satisfactory for posts which are set in
the ground. James A. Pratt.
Howard, R. I.
To Prevent Screws from Getting
Busty
To prevent screws from getting rusty
and sticking tight, instead of using ordi-
nary oil only, add some graphite. After
years you will be able to unscrew them
with ease, and find them as bright as new,
even if they were exposed to very damp
air. J. M. Menegus.
Los Angeles, Cal.
Bust-preventing Mixture
Melt 4 ounces of rosin in 1 quart of
linseed oil and mix with 2 gallons of kero-
sene oil. The mixture is readily applied
with a cloth or brush, and can be easily
removed. M. E. Canek.
To Clean Busty Pieces of Steel
Put the pieces in a solution of chlorate
of tin, not too strong, or it will attack the
metal, and let them stay there about 24
hours or less. Take the pieces from the
bath, wash them in water, then in am-
monia, and then dry them quickly. They
will have an appearance almost of silver,
but will take the natural color by rubbing
them. J. M. Menegus.
Los Angeles, Cal.
To Keep Machinery from Busting
A formula for an anti-rust compound is
made as follows : Dissolve 1 ounce of cam-
phor in 1 pound of melted lard ; take off
the scum, and mix in as much fine black
lead as will give it color. Clean the
machinery, and smear it with the mixture,
and after 24 hours rub clean with soft
linen cloth. The machinery will keep clean,
under ordinary circumstances, for a long
time. James A. Pratt.
Howard, R. L
To Bemove Bust from Small Steel Farts
Rust may be removed from small steel
parts such as screws, nuts, pins, etc., when
they are not badly pitted, by dipping them
into a dilute solution of sulphuric acid.
To prepare the acid bath, pour the acid
little by little into a bowl partly filled
with water. After each addition of acid,
try one of the rusted parts, and continue
trying until the proper strength is obtained
to eat the rust off clean. Better results
will be obtained in this manner than by
working to a set formula. Let the parts
remain in the acid bath until cleaned of
rust, then remove and wash in soda water,
and then in benzine. Finally dry the parts
and brighten in sawdust. S. W. Greem.
SOLDERS AND SOLDERING ACIDS
37
Preservative Oil
To make a preservative oil use high test
grain alcohol and best grade of sperm oil,
equal parts. Keep in a tightly-corked
bottle, and shake well before using as the
alcohol and oil separate after standing.
Any moisture on a tool or gun at the time
of application is quickly absorbed by the
alcohol which in a short time evaporates,
leaving a good coat of sperm oil to protect
the surfaco from rust. E. W. Norton.
Removing- Rust from Steel
A good method for removing rust from
steel is to first rub the object with sweet
oil, and then after a day or two, rub it
with finely powdered unslaked lime until
the rust disappears. Then give it again a
coating of oil with a woolen cloth, and put
it in a dry place. E. W. Norton.
Rust Preventative
To make a mixture that will prevent
hardware and machinists' tools from rust-
ing, take one-half pint of Demar white var-
nish, and mix it well with one gallon of
turpentine, use as a wash. When the pol-
ished surfaces are thoroughly covered with
a thin coat of the varnish it will show
scarcely any, but will preserve the polish
for years, if it is not scraped off with some-
thing very hard. H. E. Wood.
Pearl River, N. Y.
Rust Preventative for Tools
The following I have used for a number
of years, and found it O. K. in every re-
spect. Take a pound of vaseline and melt
with It 2 ounces of blue ointment — what
druggists call one-third — and add, to give it
a pleasant odor, a few drops of oil of win-
tergreen, cinnamon, or sassafras. When
thoroughly mixed pour into a tin can — an
old baking powder can will do. Keep a rag
saturated with the preventative to wipe
tools that are liable to rust.
Angelica, N. Y. F. H. .Tackson.
To Remove Rust from Polished Steel
It quite frequently happens that parts of
machinery having polished surfaces become
rusty. This rust is diflScult to remove
without scratching the highly polished sur-
face. A very effective mixture for remov-
ing rust from such surfaces without injury
may be made as follows : Ten parts of
tin putty, 8 parts of prepared buckshorn,
and 230 parts of spirits of wine. These
ingredients are mixed to a soft paste, and
rubbed in on the surface until the rust dis-
appears. When no trace of rust seems to
remain, the surface is polished with a dry,
soft cloth. T. E. O'DONNELL.
Urbana, 111.
To Clean Rusted Steel — To Preserve
Steel from Rust
Rusted steel can be cleaned by brushing
with a paste compound of % ounce of
cyanide potassium, i/^ ounce castile soap, 1
ounce whiting, and water sufficient to form
a paste. The steel should be washed with
a solution of V2 ounce cyanide potassium
in 2 ounces water.
To preserve steel from rust dissolve 1
part caoutchoue and 16 parts turpentine
with a gentle heat, then add 8 parts boiled
oil, and mix by bringing them to the heat
of boiling water. Apply to the steel with
a brush, the same as varnish. It can be
removed again with a cloth soaked in tur-
pentine. A. L. MONRAD.
New Haven, Conn.
SOLDERS AND SOLDERING ACIDS
Cheap Plowing^ Solder
A cheap soft solder which is good for
purposes where not much pressure is car-
ried, is made by adding to each pound of
lead, while melting, one teaspoonful of
common salt. C. L. Scoville.
Ashtabula. Ohio.
Soldering- Kink
When soldering, and no acid is handy, a
common tallow candle will answer the pur-
pose. John B. Sperry.
Aurora, 111.
Alum.inuni Solder
The following is a receipt for aluminum
solder which we are using with success in
the Elwell-Parker Electric Co.'s shop, Cleve-
land, Ohio. It is the result of experiments
made by several of our foremen : Pig tin,
12 ounces ; sheet zinc, 3 ounces ; mercury,
1 ounce. Melt the zinc first and then add
the tin. When the tin is melted remove
from the fire and add the mercury while
still in the molten state. Be careful to
stir the mixture thoroughly before pouring
into the mold. Use stearic acid for a flux.
Cleveland, Ohio. L. Miller.
38
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Soldering" Galvanized Iron
For soldering galvanized iron without
scraping use raw muriatic acid.
Philadelphia, Pa. Wm. Davis.
Soldering- Solution for Steel that will
not Bust the Work
A soldering solution for steel that will
not rust or blacken the work is made of
6 ounces alcohol, 2 ounces glycerine and 1
ounce oxide of zinc. A. L. Monrad.
New Haven, Conn.
Non-rusting- Soldering Solution
A good anti-rust solution for soldering
metals where acids must not be used, is
made by dissolving rosin in acetone, mak-
ing a solution about as thick as molasses ;
it is applied in the usual manner.
Birmingham, Bng. W. R. Bowers.
Non-rusting Soldering Fluid
To prepare a soldering acid that will not
rust iron, add to a saturated solution of
zinc and hydrochloric acid 14 part am-
monia, and dilute the whole with an equal
quantity of water. This has been very
successfully used on knitting machines in
soldering needles to their holders where
an acid with the above characteristics is
essential. J. H. V.
Non-rusting Soldering Fluid
To make a non-rusting soldering fluid,
dissolve small pieces of zinc in hydrochloric
acid till effervescence ceases. After stand-
ing a day, take out the undissolved zinc,
and filter the solution. Then mix with one-
third Its volume of C. P. ammonia 26 de-
grees, Beaume, and dilute with water to
suit the work to be soldered. This flux
does first-class service and does not rust
the work. F. E. Whittlesey.
Corry, Pa.
Soldering Aluminum and Copper
It is often stated that aluminum cannot
be readily and successfully soldered to
other metals. I have, on numerous occa-
sions, successfully and easily soldered alum-
inum to both copper and brass by the fol-
lowing method : First tin the aluminum
and the copper, or brass, using stearine as
a flux ; wipe off clean, then use zinc chloride
as flux ; wipe solder composed of : tin 67
per cent., lead 33 per cent. T.Iles.
Manchester, England.
Soldering Alloys
I have used the following soldering al-
loys and can recommend them :
For copper with copper : Copper, 55 ;.
zinc, 40 ; tin, 5.
For copper with iron: Copper, 80;
zinc, 16 ; tin, 4.
For brass : Copper, 45 ; zinc, 50 ; tin, 5.
For lead : Lead, 67 ; tin, 33.
Los Angeles, Cal. J. M. Menegus.
Soldering- Paste for Copper "Wires
Soldering paste has come into extensive
use in electrical work as a flux for solder-
ing, and the following receipt will be found
useful In soldering copper wires when the
use of an acid would be objectionable. This
paste will not spatter or corrode, and the
proportions are as follows : Saturate solu-
tion chloride of zinc, 1 dram; vaseline, l^^
ounce. William Davis.
Philadelphia, Pa.
Solder for Small Farts
To make a solder for small metal articles
cut tinfoil into the shape wanted and wet
on both sides with sal-ammoniac. Have
the surface of the piece clean, place on It
the wet tinfoil and then press the parts to-
gether firmly and heat until the tinfoil Is-
melted. E. W. Norton.
Aluminum Solder
To make a solder for soldering alum-
inum, melt together 1 pound block tin, 4
ounces spelter, 2 ounces pure lead and
3 pounds phosphor tin. When using, clean
the work with benzine and apply with a
heated copper bit In the usual manner.
Lynn, Mass. L. C. Carr.
Electricians' Method of Soldering
A method of soldering that I noticed elec-
tricians using in soldering wire is as fol-
lows : The solder is melted In a pot and
then poured over the joints to be soldered,
by means of a small dip ladle. Then acid,
paste or stick flux is applied, and the solder
again applied. This makes a good joint.
The solder which drops from the joint is
caught by a second ladle, or In the solder
pot. In some cases, when possible, the piece
is dipped in the pot, the flux applied and
the work again dipped. It is important in
both cases to give the piece a sharp tap
after the second application, to knock o£E
any surplus solder. Herman Jonson.
New York City.
SOLDERS AND SOLDERING ACIDS
39
Solder for Gold
To make a solder for gold melt together
In a charcoal fire 24 grains gold, 9 grains
pure silver, 6 grains copper, 3 grains good
brass ; this makes a solder for gold ranging
from 12 to 16 carats fine. For finer gold
increase the proportions of gold in the com-
position. To make it darker in color lessen
the proportion of silver and increase that
of copper. .Joseph M. Stabel.
Rochester, N. Y.
Solder Preparation for Aluminum
The most successful solder preparation
for soldering aluminum yet secured is made
up in the following manner : Melt together
64 parts, by weight, of tin, 30 parts of
zinc, 1 part of lead, and a small amount of
rosin. All parts, of course, must be mixed
together very thoroughly while in molten
condition. When thoroughly mixed the
alloy should be run out in bars of desired
sizes. Clean the surfaces thoroughly and
apply the solder. No chemical is required,
the rosin used being sufficient to cause ad-
hesion, although it is advisable to heat the
parts to be soldered gently to assist in
making a good adhesion.
OIney, 111. T. E. O'Donnell.
Soldering Witliout Heat
Take 1 ounce of ammoniac and 1 ounce
of common salt, an equal quantity of cal-
cined tartar, and 3 ounces of antimony.
Pound this well together and sift. Put
this in a piece of linen, and enclose it well
around with fullers' earth about an inch
thick. let it dry, then put it in one crucible,
covered by another crucible over a slow
fire to get hot by slow degrees. Keep up
the fire until the content of the crucible
gets red-hot and melts. Then let it cool
gradually, and when cold pound the mix-
ture. When you wish to solder anything
put the two pieces you want to Join to-
gether on a table close to one another.
Make a crust of fullers' earth, so that,
passing under the joint and holding to each
piece it shall be open at the top. Then
throw some of the powder between and over
the joint. Dissolve some borax in some
hot wine, and with a feather dip in the
solution and rub the powder at the place
of the joint. It will immediately boil up.
As soon as the boiling stops the consolida-
tion is made. The calcined tartar is made
by placing crude tartar in a covered cruci-
ble and raising it to a low red heat. Allow
It to cool gradually. Joseph M. Stabel.
Rochester, N. Y.
Cold Solder
For flux use 1 part metallic sodium to
50 or 60 parts of mercury. These combine
if well shaken in a bottle. For solder use
a weak solution of copper sulphate, about 1
ounce sulphate to 1 quart of water ; pre-
cipitate the copper by rods of zinc, wash
the precipitate two or three times with hot
water, drain off the water and add 6 or 7
ounces of mercury for every 3 ounces of
precipitate. A trifle of sulphuric acid will
assist in the combining of the matter. The
combination will form a paste which sets
very hard in a few hours. A. L. Monrad.
New Haven, Conn.
Soldering- Acid and Solders
I have seen a number of different for-
mulas for soldering acids and have had
occasion to try several of them with more
or less satisfaction. Among all the differ-
ent ones which I have tried, I know of
but one, however, that actually can be said
to fill all requirements.
The acid is composed of : Solution chloride
zinc, 1 ounce ; glycerine, 1 ounce, alcohol,
7 ounces.
As far as the solder itself i.s concerned,
one can, of course, make compositions of
tin and lead in almost any proportions to
fill the requirements in general. The melt-
ing point of these different compositions will
vary greatly, however, according to the
proportions of above metals in same, and,
of course, this is an important factor in
many instances, especially when wanting to
solder metals which have a low melting
temperature, in which case the solder ought
to be a composition which itself will melt
at a very low temperature. If bismuth is
added to the composition the melting tem-
perature will almost invariably be lowered.
I have on hand a fairly complete table of
compositions for solder, giving their respec-
tive melting temperatures and the raetala
for which they are best adapted :
Melting
temp.
Tin. Lead. Bismuth. Deg. Fahr.
15.5 32.0 52.5 205
20.0 26.0 54.0 214
20.6 26.8 52.6 217
21.4 27.8 50.8 225
24.8 22.1 53.1 237
20.0 20.0 60.0 250
15.0 25.0 60.0 257
63.2 36.S 361
60.0 40.0 372
70.0 30.0 381
50.0 50.0 415
34.0 66.0 446
30.0 70.0 495
A
40
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Improved Soldering' Acid
A very satisfactory soldering acid may
be made by tlie use of the ordinary solder-
ing acid for the base and introducing a
certain proportion of chloride of tin and
sal-ammoniac. This gives an acid which is
far superior to the old form. To make
one gallon of this soldering fluid, take
three quarts of common muriatic acid and
dissolve as much zinc as possible in it.
This, as is well known, is the common
form of acid used in soldering. Next dis-
solve 6 ounces of sal-ammoniac in a pint
of warm water. In another pint dissolve
4 ounces of chloride of tin. The three
solutions should then be mixed together.
After mixing, the solution may appear
cloudy, and can be cleared up by a few
drops of muriatic acid, care being taken
not to add too much. The acid is used in
the same manner as any ordinary solder-
ing fluid. It will be found that it will not
spatter when the hot iron is applied, and
also that a cheaper grade of solder may
be used with it, if necessary.
Urbana. III. T. B. O'Donnell.
To Solder Aluminum
The great disadvantage of aluminiiin to
the sheet metal worker is the difficulty en-
countered in soldering. This is caused by
the formation of an oxide on the surface
of the heated metal, the oxide preventing
the solder from alloying with the aluminum.
This difficulty can be surmounted by em-
ploying the following method :
Make a solder of 80 per cent tin and
20 per cent zinc, and use stearic acid
as a flux. Tin the surface with the above,
moving the copper bit backward and for-
ward over the metal and flowing the solder.
The film of oxide can then be cleaned off,
and the coated surface can be easily sol-
dered with the above-named sokhn- oi'
ordinary tinsmiths' solder. A. Eyles.
Manchester, Eng.
Crold Solders
Gold solder .suitable for IS-karat work :
Gold, fine, 1 ounce ; silver, fine, 144 grains :
copper wire, 96 grains. (Troy weight.)
Suitable for 16-karat work: Pine gold.
1 ounce ; fine silver, 144 grains ; copper
wire, IGS grains.
Suitable for 15-karat work: Fine gold.
1 ounce ; fine silver, 240 grains ; copper
wire, 240 grains.
Suitable for 14-karat work : Fine gold,
1 ounce, fine silver, 300 grains ; copper
wire, 300 grains.
Hardest silver solder : Fine silver, 1
ounce; shot copper, 120 grains.
Best hard silver solder : Fine silver, 1
ounce ; shot copper, 105 grains ; spelter, 15
grains.
Medium silver solder : Pine silver, 360
grains ; shot copper, 96 grains ; spelter, 24
grains.
Easy silver solder : Fine silver, 336
grains ; shot copper, 108 grains ; spelter, 36
grains. ^^ ^ ^nxj k'wj t^
Syracuse, N. Y.
H. D. SCHATTLE.
Soldering Paste
By the requirements of the electrical
trade, in certain cases no acid soldering
flux can be used. A flux that can be used
on any kind of work is known as a solder-
ing paste. For soldering copper wires and
other electrical conductors the paste is un-
equaled, and is particularly adapted for
work in which spattering and corrosion are
objectionable. The mixture for soldering
paste consists of certain proportions of
grease and chloride of zinc. The grease
commonly used is petrolatum or vaseline,
which will give the paste the proper con-
sistency. The proportions used are pe-
trolatum or vaseline, 1 pound, and 1 fluid
ounce saturated solution chloride of zinc.
Urbana, 111. T. E. O'Donnell.
Non-corrosive Soldering- riuid
An economical non-corrosive soldering
fluid is the following : Put any quantity
of chloride of zinc in a bottle, fill it up
with alcohol, and allow it to stand at least
48 hours, then carefully pour off the alco-
hol, mix it with an equal quantity of glycer
ine and shake. The zinc remaining in the
bottle can be used until there is nothing
left of it, since the alcohol which is poured
off after 48 hours contains all the chloride
of zinc which is necessary for good solder-
ing.
New York. Herman Jonson.
Silver Solder for Brazing
Much difficulty arises in the use of braz-
ing solder. The best alloy to use in braz-
ing is the common silver solder. It has
the advantages of a low melting point and
toughness, which are not found to such a
ALLOYS AND LUBRICANTS
41
high degree in common brazing brasses
composed of copper and zinc. The melting
point of silver being lower than that of
copper, and as it does not oxidize when
heated, it is admirably adapted for use In
brazing solder. The proper mixture for the
solder consists of two parts fine sliver
filings and one part fine brass, which lat-
ter consists of 2 parts copper and 1 part
zinc. T. E. O'DONXELL.
Urbana, III.
MISCELLANEOUS ALLOYS
Alloy for Caliper and Gag-e Rod
Casting's
A mixture of 30 parts zinc to 70 parts
aluminum gives a light and durable alloy
for gage rods and caliper legs. The gage
rods must be steel tipped for the alloy is
soft and wears away too rapidly for gage
points. James A. Pratt.
Howard, R. I.
Alloy for Pattern Ijetters and Fig-ures
.\ good alloy for casting pattern letters
and figures and similar small parts in
brass, iron or plaster molds is made of
lead, 80 parts, and antimony, 20 parts. A
better alloy would be lead, 70 parts: anti-
mony and bismuth, each 1.5 parts. To in-
sure perfect work the molds should be
quite hot by placing them over a Bunsen
burner. The writer has had thousands of
pattern letters and figures made In this
manner. Oscar E. Perrigo.
Neponset, Mass.
Anti-friction Metal
An anti-friction metal of most excellent
quality and one that I have used with suc-
cess for a bearing on an Internal grinding
shaft, which was 5-16 inch diameter, 7
inches long, and 5 Inches In the bearing,
and run at a speed of 36,000 R. P. M. is
made as follows : 17 parts zinc, 1 part
copper, 114 part antimony; prepared in the
following way : Melt the copper in a small
crucible, then add the antimony and lastly
the zinc, care being taken not to burn the
zinc. Burning can be prevented by allowing
the copper and antimony to cool slightly
before adding the zinc. This metal is pre-
ferably cast Into the shape desired and Is
not used as a lining metal because it re-
quires too great a heat to pour. It ma-
chines nicely and takes a fine polish on
hearing surfaces. It has the appearance of
aluminum when finished. Use a lubricating
oil made from any good grade of machine
oil to which 3 parts of kerosene have been
added. Herrmann G. Kroeger.
Louisville, Ky.
LUBRICANTS FOR BEARINGS, ETC.
Iiubricant for Xiathe Centers
An excellent lubricant for lathe centers
is made by using 1 part graphite and 4
parts tallow thoroughly mixed.
Rock Falls, III. E. C. Noble.
Preparing- Pine Oil for Delicate
Machinery
Put small zinc and lead shavings In equal
quantities Into best olive oil, and place the
oil in a cool place until It becomes color-
less. This oil is the best obtainable for
fine mechanisms. O. G.
Self-lubricating' Bearing's
In hard gun-metal bushes, bore a good
fit to shaft and split, drill four holes per
inch diam-
The holes are to be
flat at the bottom and to be spaced zigzag,
so that one row of holes is between the
holes In the opposite side, thus : . • . • .
Fill the holes with a compound prepared as
follows : Melt 1 pound solid parafflne and
add 2 ounces of litharge, dissolved isinglass
and sulphur ; add further 2 pounds of fine
plumbago and mix thoroughly,
Toronto, Can. J. H. Holdswoeth.
IiUbricant for Hig-h-speed Bearing's
To prevent heating and sticking of bear-
ings on heavy machine tools due to running
continuously at high speeds, fill an oil can
with a good spring bottom (the "Gem" oiler
preferred) about one-eighth full of Dixon's
flake graphite, and the remainder with
kerosene oil. As soon as the bearing shows
the slightest Indication of heating or stick-
ing, this mixture should be forcibly squirted
through the oil hole until it flows out be-
tween the shaft and bearing, when a small
quantity of thin machine oil may be ap-
plied. H. J. Bachmann.
New York.
42
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Iiubricatingr Oil for Heavy Duty and
Fast Bunning Journals
An excellent lubricating oil for heavy
duty and fast running Journals may be
made by mixing equal parts of sperm oil,
cylinder oil and "black strap" or common
machine oil. A. D. Knadel.
Moline, 111.
Cooling Compound for Necks of Rolls
and Shafts
Dissolve 2V4 pounds of lead acetate in
14 pounds hot tallow and add 2^4 pounds
black antimony. Stir the ingredients con-
stantly until cold. W. R. Bowers.
Birmingham, England.
Oil for Use on Micrometer Screws
To prepare oil for micrometers, fine
mechanisms, etc., take neatsfoot oil and put
into it some lead shavings in order to neu-
tralize the acid contained in the oil ; let
this stand for a considerable time, the
longer the better. Oil thus prepared never
corrodes or thickens. Joseph M. Stabel.
Rochester, N. Y.
I^ubricant for Iiatlie Centers
I have tried many different kinds of
lubricants for lathe centers and as yet I
have found nothing equal to white lead
mixed with sperm oil, with enough graph-
ite added to give it a dark lead color. It
can be mixed and kept in small tin boxes ;
add oil when necessary to keep it from
getting too thick. S. C. S.
A Grease for Gear Wheels
A good grease for gear wheels where Iron
meshes into iron can be made of 1 part of
graphite, and 4 parts of tallow mixed with
some oil. For steel gears meshing into
wood 1 part of graphite, 2 parts of bees-
wax and 1^ to 1 part of tallow will form
a very good and lasting grease for same.
Cleveland, O. Max J. Oches.
Iiuhricant for the V's of Iiarge Planers
When very heavy work is to be done on
a planer it may happen that the oil or
other lubricant used on the ways of the
planer does not possess suflicient "body"
to resist the pressure, and the wearing
surface will be cut or badly "roughed up."
The writer had a case wherein the planer
table weighed eleven tons and the load to
be put upon It thirteen tons, making
twenty-four tons In all. The bearing sur-
faces of the V's appeared very narrow to
sucessfully support such a weight. To
avoid cutting, the surfaces were lubricated
with a mixture of one gallon of "Vacuum"
cylinder oil and one pound of Dixon's flake
graphite. The planing job was easily and
successfully done with no Injury to the
wearing surfaces. Oscar E. Perriqo.
Neponset, Mass.
White Iiead and Tallow of Even Con-
sistency at All Temperatures
In order to keep white lead and tallow
soft in winter and summer alike, so that
it can be applied with a brush to finished
parts of machinery before shipping them,
and for use in fitting keys, etc.. prepare a
mixture composed of five pounds of white
lead and fifteen pounds of tallow. Heat
this in a suitable receptacle, and stir until
the Ingredients are thoroughly mixed.
Then remove the mixture to a cool place,
and add two quarts of linseed oil, con-
tinuing to stir the composition ilntil It
becomes cold, as otherwise the white lead
will settle at the bottom. This mixture
will always remain of the same consistency
at all temperatures. R. S. F.
LUBRICANTS FOR MACHINING OR ^WORKING METALS
Tapping Holes in Cast Iron
Kerosene oil used as a lubricant for tap-
ping holes In cast iron Is the best lubri-
cant known to the writer. Wm. Davis.
Philadelphia. Pa.
To Turn Very Hard Iron and Steel
Use a drip can for the tool with the
following solution : petroleum, 2 gallons ;
turpentine, 1 gallon, and 2 ounces of cam-
Pbor. J. H. Holds WORTH.
Toronto, Canada.
To Turn Aluminum
To produce a smooth surface when turn-
ing aluminum use kerosene oil for a lubri-
cant. If turning in a turret lathe pro-
vided with an oil pump, mix the kerosene
oil with lard oil, 1 part of lard oil to 3
parts of kerosene, as kerosene itself is too
thin to be fed through the ordinary oil
pump without being mixed with a more
heavy flowing fluid. Kerosene oil Is also
the best lubricant for use In boring, thread-
ing and reaming aluminum.
East Hartford, Conn. John C. Monrad.
LUBRICANTS
43
To Drill Hard Steel
To drill hardened steel make an old-fash-
ioned flat drill and temper as hard as It
will stand. Use camphor and turpentine
in place of oil. I have drilled steel in this
manner which I could not drill in any
other way. G. E. Hetzleu.
Dayton, O.
A lubricant for Cutting: Threads
After trying various kinds of lubricants
In cutting threads on tool steel, machine
steel, etc., I found that common lard (not
lard oil) mixed with about one-third tur-
pentine gave the best results. The mixture
may be applied with a small brush.
Paterson, N. J. Stephen Courter.
Drilling: Compound
A good drilling compound is made by add-
ing 1 pound common soda to 4 quarts
water, and 1 pint machine oil. Let stand
for about one hour and it will be ready for
use. This will not rust the machines and
is clean to work with.
Winnetka, 111. Frank Pavlik, Jr.
lubricant for Cutting: Aluminum
A good lubricant for cutting alumi-
num in the lathe is kerosene oil. It will
permit a better finish, and will materially
reduce the liability of tearing the surface
by the cutting tool. Skegor.
lubricant for Aluminum Cutting
The following mixture makes the best
lubricant for turning, or any other machin-
ing operation on aluminum, that I have
ever tried : Mix 1 part good lard oil with
4 parts of kerosene oil.
A. A. Stevenson.
Iiubricant for Fitting Aluminum
Threads
When screwing an aluminum article on-
to an iron or steel part, much trouble Is
often experienced by the breaking and tear-
ing of the threads of the softer metal.
This can be prevented by lubricating the
screw well with a mixture of oil and
graphite. Sregor.
lubricating: ISizture for Cutting Tools
The proportion of ingredients of a lubri-
cating mixture for cutting tools is G gal-
lons of water, 3% pounds of soft soap,
and 1/2 gallon of clean refuse oil. Heat the
water and mix with the soap, preferably
in a mechanical mixer ; afterward add
the oil. A cast Iron circular tank to hold
12 gallons, fitted with a tap at the bottom
and having three revolving arms fitted to
a vertical shaft driven by bevels and a fast,
loose pulley, answers all that is required
for a mixer. This should be kept running
all through the working day.
Manchester, Eng. H. T. Millar.
lubricant for Turning Copper
A solution of sal-soda mixed with lard
oil Is a lubricant I have seen used on
copper in turret lathe work with good
results. S. H. Sweet.
Bridgeport, Conn.
Solution for Drilling Hard Steel
A mixture which will permit hard steel
or Iron to be drilled with ordinary drills
is made by using 1 part spirits of camphor
and 4 parts turpentine. Mix well and ap-
ply cold, letting It remain a few minutes
before applying the drill. Run the drill
slowly with fine feed. C. E. Mink.
Syracuse, N. Y.
lubricant for Turning Copper
Gasoline is an excellent lubricant. In our
shop we have used it as a lubricant for
cutting copper with very good results.
Rockford, 111. George C. Nash.
lubricant for Pipe Screw Threads
The best "dope," so-called in shop par-
lance, that I have ever seen used for mak-
ing pipe connections, is composed of 1 pint
of "black strap" machine oil, % pint
graphite, Vi pint of white lead, and a tea-
spoonful of flour emery. These proportions
are not exact, but they are substantially
what are used. The object of the flour
emery Is to polish the threads as they are
being screwed together. The graphite,
white lead and oil make a fine lubricating
mixture, which has enough consistency to
stop Incipient leaks. I have seen many
large pipe radiators made up using this
mixture, and they never leaked a drop when
the steam was turned on. M. E. Canek.
Altay, N. Y.
44
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Iiutoricants for Use in Cutting' Bolts
and Tapping" Nuts
Mineral oils should never be used in
thread cutting and tapping, as they do not
generally flow freely enough. An excellent
solution for this purpose can be prepared
by dissolving 1% pound of sal-soda in 3
gallons of warm water, then adding 1 gal-
lon of pure lard oil. This is known as a
soda solution. Pure lard oil is the best
for fine, true work. T. E. O'Doxxell.
Urbana, 111;
Turning' Copper
Those who have had to turn copper in
the lathe have generally wished they had
let someone else do the work, and that they
could stand by and jeer when it was being
performed, or else criticise it after it was
done. Soap and water do not help ; tur-
pentine is a delusion and a snare ; but
milk does the trick "with neatness and dis-
patch." Robert Grimshaw.
Hanover, Germany.
Iiuliricatingr Mixture for Cutting Thread
in Tool Steel
To make a good lubricating mixture for
cutting thread in hard tool steel, use equal
parts of turpentine and benzine or kero-
sene. For cutting in soft tool steel mix
equal parts of kerosene and lard oil. These
mixtures always flow even and keep just
about enough moisture at the cutting point.
Kearney, N. J. Everett Kxeex.
Iiubricants for Redrawing Shells
Zinc shells should be clean and free from
all grit and should be immersed in boiling
hot soap water. They must be redrawn
while hot to get the best results. On some
shells hot oil is sometimes used in prefer-
ence to soap water.
For redrawing aluminum shells use a
cheap grade of vaseline. It may not be
amiss to add that the draw part of the re-
drawing die should not be made too long, so
as to prevent "too much friction," which
causes the shells to split and shrivel up.
For redrawing copper shells use good
thick soap water as a lubricant. The soap
used should be of a kind that will produce
plenty of "slip" ; if none such is to be had,
mix a quantity of lard oil with the soap
water on hand and boil the two together.
Sprinkling graphite over the shells just be-
fore redrawing sometimes helps out on a
mean job. C. F. Emerson.
Lubricating Soap for Wire Drawing,
Screw Cutting" and Working* Metals
Put 20 pounds of pure caustic potash
into an iron or earthen vessel with 2 gal-
lons of water. The potash will dissolve
very quickly by heating the water. Heat
914 gallons of oil to about 140 degrees F.,
which is most easily done by bringing a
small portion of the oil to the boiling point
and adding this to the remainder. Pour the
caustic potash lye into the oil in a small
stream, stirring steadily with a wooden pad-
dle until the oil and lye appear well com-
bined and smooth, which will take only a
few minutes. Put the mixture in a warm
place, covering the vessel well with blankets
or woolen rugs to keep the hea,t caused
by the mixture combining and turning into
soap. This wrapping is very important, the
object being to keep the temperature uni-
from until saponification is completed. The
mixing may be done in a wooden vessel,
half an oil barrel answering very well.
After three or four days the soap is formed
and may be used, though it is better, in
order to insure perfect saponification of all
the oil, to stir it up well again and leave
standing, still well covered, for a few days
longer. In this way the finest possible soap
for lubricating purposes is made. It is a
real potash soap made pure for use, not
made cheap for sale by the addition of
water and Impurities, and, moreover, cannot
be excelled for cleaning or washing pur-
poses, especially for washing flannels, and
will never cause sore hands.
Use a first-class pale seal oil for soft
soap for wire drawing, though a good, re-
fined cotton-seed oil may be used for general
purposes. It is absolutely necessary that
the caustic potash be unadulterated, for the
principle of this cold process of making
soap depends on the use of strong, pure
lye of caustic potash.
The best way of making the suds with
this soap is as follows: Put G pounds of
the soap into a vessel with 2 gallons of
hot steam water, heat to thoroughly dis-
solve the soap, stirring well, then add G
more gallons of water and lastly 3 gallons
of oil, which should be thoroughly stirred
into the soap and water, so that on stand-
ing over-night the oil will not separate.
This will be found to give very good re-
sults.
The cost of this soap depends on the
quality of the oil and whether wholesale or
retail prices are paid. Even at the latter
it will not exceed 7 cents per pound. With
cotton-seed oil and wholesale prices It can
be made for about 5 cents a pound.
Milwaukee, Wis. A. F. Bierbach.
BELT AND ROPE DRESSINGS
45
Iiubricaut for Brawiugf Dies
The following mixture has given very
good results as a lubricant on drawing dies
when drawing sheet metal : Boil together
until thoroughly mixed, 1 pound of white
lead, 1 quart of fish oil, 1 pint of water,
and o ounces of black lead. Apply to the
sheet metal with a brush before it enters
the dies. Jos. M. Stabel.
Rochester, N. Y.
Lubricant for Drilling- Copper
The best thing in my opinion to use for
drilling copper, especially with small drills,
is a piece of tallow. I have noticed a
great number of receipts given, but I find
that this simple means answers the purpose
equally well or better than anything else.
Marquette, Mich. Geo. W. S.mith.
Lubricant for Small Oilstones
As a lubricant for honing out dies or other
work with an oilstone, kerosene oil gives
the best results as it not only enables the
stone to take hold, but keeps it clean and
prevents it from filling up.
C. P. Emerson.
BELT AND ROPE DRESSINGS
Belt Dressing-
I have found the following mixture to
answer the purpose of a good belt dressing
as well as an excellent anti-slip medium
for hard-worked leather driving belts :
Russian tallow, 1 ounce ; best lard oil, 2
ounces ; Venice turpentine, 16 ounces. This
dressing is good to use on the belts of belt-
driven motor cycles. W. R. Bowers.
Birmingham, Eng.
Transmission Kope Dressing
A good transmission rope dressing Is
made by melting together 450 pounds of
tallow. 3.3 pounds rosin, 150 pounds bees-
wax. 20 pounds pine tar, 14 pounds lamp-
black, and 15 pounds tobacco tin-foil.
Pour the mixture in molds to make stock
2% inches in diameter, and 11 inches long,
weighing about 3 pounds each. Use one
for about 400 feet of one-inch rope.
New York. Herman Jonson.
"Wire Rope Grease
A mixture of % oil and i^ colophony
(rosin), will be found to be a very good
lubricant for wire ropes such as used on
power transmitting and conveying machin-
ery, if applied warm. Boiled linseed oil
also answers the same purpose when high
speed is required. Max J. Oches.
Cleveland. O.
Belt Dressing
A great many people think they know
how to make a good belt dressing. This
accounts for the many poor ones in the
market. Here is one that will do about
all the good that any of them will and
none of the harm to the structure of the
belt. Melt a pound of beeswax in a gallon
of neatsfoot oil by a gentle heat. The
most convenient way to secure a good mix-
ture is to melt the beeswax first, then add
the oil slowly, stirring it constantly until
it is thoroughly mixed.
Neponset, Mass. Oscar E. Perrigo.
FIRE AND 'WATERPROOFING RECEIPTS
Fireprooflng- Solution for Toolmakers'
Aprons, Btc.
Toolmakers' aprons, factory shades and
other inflammable materials may be ren-
dered absolutely fireproof by being treated
with the following solution : To 1/2 pound
tungstate of soda add 2 quarts of water,
or enough to entirely dissolve it, and bottle
up tightly. This stock solution is to be
added to sufficient water required to soak
the article in the proportion of one-fifth
the above solution to the required water.
After being soaked, hang the article up to
dry. Fireproofing factory shades at win-
dows near gas jets or the cloth aprons
worn when working over a fire in harden-
ing and tempering tools, etc., will often
save bad fires or serious accidents.
E. W. NORTO.N.
To "Waterproof Leather
To waterproof leather and leave it soft
and pliable, apply a mixture of 4 parts
castor oil and 1 part raw India rubber, by
weight. Heat the oil to 250 degrees F.,
then add the rubber, cut into small pieces.
Gradually stir until the rubber is com-
pletely dissolved and thru pour into a suit-
able vessel and lot cool. If used on dark
leather add sufficient printer's ink to give
the dark color. E. W. Norton.
46
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Waterproof Cloth Tool Bagrs or
Cases
To waterproof tool bags or cases made
of duck or other cloth, either of the follow-
ing formulas may be used :
Use % pound of alum and 2 ounces of
saltpeter dissolved in 1 quart of water.
Immerse the article to be waterproofed in
this mixture for 40 minutes, and boil hard ;
then rinse in cold hard water, hang up and
let dry thoroughly before using.
Melt % pound of parafflne wax and mix
In 1 quart of gasoline. Immerse the article
In this and wring out and spread out to
dry. In a short time it Is ready to use.
E. W. Norton.
To Pireproof Wood, in Forge Shops
To protect the woodwork around or near
a forge apply three coats of 3 parts alum
and 1 part copperas, dissolved in water.
Apply hot, and only allow sufficient time
between applications for the preparation to
saturate the wood. Follow this with a
fourth coat composed of solution of cop-
peras made to the consistency of paint by
mixing with fireclay. This treatment will
not only render the wood fireproof but will
preserve it for many times its ordinary life.
Another fireproofing mixture for the
same purpose is composed of 3 parts ground
wood ashes and 1 part boiled linseed oil.
This is applied with a brush.
Still another fireproofing treatment con-
sists of three applications of a hot solution
of phosphate of ammonia. The last two
treatments require renewing at least once a
year. E. W. Norton.
CLAYS AND CLAY SUBSTITUTES
Mixture for Fire Cement
To make a fire cement use 100 parts fire
clay, wet ; 3 parts black oxide manganese ;
3 parts white sand ; and V^ part powdered
asbestos. Thoroughly mix, adding sufficient
water to make a smooth mortar.
Syracuse, N. Y. C. E. Mink.
Emergency Bepairs of Boiler Furnace
When it is necessary to repair the boiler
furnace and fire brick cannot be obtained,
take common earth, mix with water in
which has been dissolved a small amount
of common salt. Use this mixture the
same as fire clay. It will be found to last
almost as long. R. E. Verse.
Fire Clay Mixture
A fire clay mixture that will stand a high
temperature without cracking or checking
is mixed as follows : 45 per cent crushed
fire brick, 50 per cent fire clay, and 5 per
cent clean, sharp sand. This is to be mois-
tened and mixed to a heavy paste, tamped
into the shape required and burned dry.
Denver, Col. E. W. Bowen.
Mortar for Stopping* Holes in Boiler
Settings, Etc.
I have successfully used the following
simple mortar for stopping leaks in chim-
neys, etc. : Mix hardwood ashes, 3 quarts ;
chimney soot, 1 quart ; common salt, 1
quart ; and sufficient water to make a stiff
mortar. Apply at once as it hardens
quickly. It is good for stopping cracks in
boiler settings and other brickwork struc-
tures where not exposed to very high tem-
peratures. Although of an improvised and
primitive nature it answers the purpose
very well, and has the merit of being made
of materials available almost everywhere.
It Is a very old receipt ; in various propor-
tions it was used by our forefathers years
ago. F. Emerson.
Newark, N. J.
Claying- Mixture for Forges
Running as we do about twenty-four
fires in our smith shop, we have experienced
some little difficulty in securing a satisfac-
tory claying mixture with which to clay
the forges. This difficulty arises, in part,
from the fact that the forges are used by
inexperienced individuals. After repeated
trials with various mixtures recommended,
we experimented until we finally hit upon
the eminently satisfactory one given in the
following : 20 parts fire clay ; 20 parts
cast iron turnings ; 1 part common salt ;
V2 part sal-ammoniac ; all by measure.
The materials should be thoroughly
mixed dry and then wet down to the con-
sistency of common mortar, constantly stir-
ring the mass as the wetting proceeds. A
rough mold shaped to fit the tuyere open-
ing, a trowel and a few minutes' time
are all that are needed to complete the
successful claying of the forge. This mix-
ture dries hard and when glazed by the
fire will outlast anything ever tried.
St. Louis, Mo. Stanley H. Moore.
VARNISHES
47
VARNISHES
Varnish for Steel
A good varnish for steel may be made by
dissolving 10 parts of clear grains of mas-
tic, 5 parts of camphor, 15 parts of san-
darac, and 5 parts of elemi in a sufficient
quantity of grain alcohol. Apply the
varnish without heat. Jos. M. Stabel.
Rochester, N. Y.
Varnish for Iron Work
To make a varnish for outdoor wood and
Ironwork, dissolve in about 2 pounds of
tar oil Y2 pound of asphaltum and a like
quantity of pounded rosin ; mix hot to an
Iron kettle, care being taken to prevent
any contact with the flame. When cold
the varnish is ready for use.
Rochester, N. Y. Joseph M. Stabel.
Black Varnish for Metals
A good varnish for finishing metals can
be made by mixing 1,000 parts of benzine,
300 parts of pulverized asphalt, and 6
parts of pure india rubber, to which Is
added enough lampblack to give the de-
sired consistency to the mixture.
Bridgeport, Conn. H. A. Sherwood.
Varnish for Drawing's
Dissolve by gentle heat 8 ounces of san-
darac in 32 ounces of alcohol. Another
receipt is : Dissolve 2 pounds of mastic and
2 pounds of a lammar in 1 gallon turpen-
ttoe without heat. The drawings must
first be sized with a strong solution of is-
inglass and hot water. W. R. Bowers.
Birmingham, Eng.
Varnish for Cast Iron Patterns
For small cast iron patterns the follow-
ing is a very satisfactory method of var-
nishing. Apply boiled linseed oil to the
iron, the pattern being heated to a tem-
perature that will just char or blacken the
oil ; the oil appears to enter the pores of
the Iron, and after such an application the
metal resists rust and corrosive agents very
satisfactorily. James A. Pkatt.
Howard, R. I.
To Clarify Shellac Varnish
Even with the best of care the pattern-
maker will find his shellac, leaving dirty
streaks on the pattern from various im-
purities held in suspension In the varnish.
These may be entirely precipitated by the
gradual addition of some crystals of oxalic
acid, stirring the varnish to aid their solu-
tion, and then setttog it aside over night
to permit the impurities to settle. No more
acid should be used than is really neces-
sary. Oscar E. Perrigo.
Neponset, Mass.
Black Varnish for Iron
A good black varnish for cast iron and
forgings can be made of 14 pound lamp-
black ; % pound rosin ; 1 pound asphaltum ;
1 quart turpentine spirits ; and a small
quantity linseed oil. The lampblack Is first
rubbed up with the linseed oil, no more oil
being used than necessary for this purpose.
The other ingredients are then mixed with
It thoroughly. O. G.
Varnishing' Blue-prints or Drawingfs
The appearance of varnished blue-prints
and drawings may be greatly improved and
the amount of bleached shellac varnish
considerably decreased by the followtog
process : Soak overnight a quantity of Is-
inglass In just enough cold water to cover
it. Use a perfectly clean glue kettle, in
which it is to be heated up, adding what-
ever amount of water may be needed to
make a moderately thin sizing. Apply this
warm, not hot, to the drawing or blue-
print. When dry apply one good coat of
bleached shellac varnish. The effect will
be nearly as good as the best varnished
maps. Oscar E. Pereigo.
Neponset, Mass.
Composition of Spirit Varnish
The table below gives the composition in
ounces of eight different kinds of varnish :
Sandarac 2 8 — 4 2 — 1 1
Best shellac 1 — 5 2 510 5 4
Mastic % 1 — 2 1 1
Benzoin l 1 1
Powdered glass.. 1 4 5
Venice turpentine 12122 1
Elemi ^ ly^
Alcohol 6 32 32 32 24 32 32 32
Varnish can be "paled" by adding 2
drams of oxalic acid per pint of varnish ;
it can be colored red with dragon's blood,
brown with logwood or madder, and yel-
low with aloes or gamboge, each dissolved
in spirits and strained. W. R. Bower.s.
Birmingham, England.
48
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Improve the Color of Shellac
Varnish
Occasionally the shellac varnish used
by the pattern-maker for varnishing very
nice patterns will seem to lose its clear,
amber tint. It is frequently the case that
the jar is cleaned out and a fresh lot dis-
solved. This does not always cure the
trouble. Any desired depth of tint may be
readily obtained by the addition of a small
quantity of gamboge previously dissolved in
a small quantity of alcohol. It should be
kept on hand for ihis purpose.
Neponset, Mass. Oscar E. Perrigo.
PAINTS AND ^WHITE^WASHES
■Waterproof Paint for Plaster
To make waterproof paint for plaster
get some mica plates, bleach them by fire,
boil in hydrochloric acid, wash and dry
and reduce to a fine powder ; then mix with
sufficient quantity of collodion to make it
run from the brush. Apply with ordinary
paint brush. P. L. Engel.
New Britain, Conn.
Paint for Pitting and Scraping^
To make a paint for fitting and scraping
get five or ten cents' worth of scarlet ver-
milion (powder) at any store where paint
is sold. Melt a tablespoonful of lard and
mix into the dry paint until like thick
cream, and when cold it is just right. The
vermilion is very fine and has no grit in
it so that the least touch of the mixture
shows.
This is better than the tube paint gen-
erally used, as being mixed with animal
oil, it will stand exposure to the air for a
year or more without drying ; but the tube
paint is mixed with vegetable oil and will
soon harden on exposure to the air. Any
colored paint powder can be used, which is
preferred. To test for grit take some be-
tween the thumb and forefinger. F. W. B.
Zinc Faint for Oil Wells
Persons having occasion to paint oil wells
of bearings, or any surface coming in con-
tact with either hot or cold oil, will find a
zinc paint consisting of 25 pounds oxide of
zinc, 3 gallons gloss oil, and 1 quart lin-
seed oil, cut with turpentine, and bleached
with ultramarine blue, to be one of the
best coverings ever made. The surface to
be covered should be absolutely free of all
greasy or oily substances ; if proper care
is taken, the paint will not crack and will
retain its pure white appearance indefi-
nitely. The paint can be blown into water
jackets of bearings, filling the sand holes,
and as it dries rapidly, will be found ex-
cellent for the purpose. Electro.
Marking^ Faint
In shops making a business of repairing
machinery, it is generally necessary to mark
the parts of machines in some way so that
they may be properly reassembled. This is
especially true in railway shops, where the
marking is necessary more for the purpose
of distinguishing the parts of diflferent en-
gines. The best way to mark such parts,
of course, is to stamp them with steel dies ;
but this is not always practicable, and, in
the absence of such means of marking, it is
customary to use a marking paint made of
white lead mixed with turpentine to a thin
consistency. Such paint dries quickly and
when dry is not easily removed. It has the
advantage of showing up fairly well on
greasy surfaces, but it is better that the
surfaces to be marked should be well cleaned
with kerosene oil before marking.
Newark, N. .T, P. Emersox.
Brilliant Whitewash
Half a bushel unslaked lime ; slake with
warm water, cover it during the process
to keep the steam ; strain the liquid
through a fine sieve or strainer ; add a
peck of salt, the same to be previously
well dissolved In warm water ; add three
pounds of ground rice boiled to a thin
paste and stir in boiling hot ; add one-half
pound of glue which has been previously
dissolved over a slow fire and add five gal-
lons of hot water to the mixture, stir well
and let it stand for a few days, covering
up to keep out dirt. It should be put on
hot. One pint of the mixture, properly
applied, will cover a square yard. Small
brushes are best. There is nothing can
compare with it for outside or inside work
and it retains its brilliancy for many years.
Coloring matter may be put in and made of
any shade — Spanish brown, yellow ochre,
or common clay, etc.
Yours truly,
U. S. Grant.
To my dear friend, I. Bulson,
San Pranclsco.
P. S. : I whitewashed the White House
all over with it U. S. G.
PLASTER OF PARIS
49
Waterproof Marking- Faint for Stone
To prepsire a marking paint for use on
stone where exposed to the water and
dampness, use pitch, 11 pounds, lamp-
blacli, 1 pound, and heat carefully, adding
sufficient turpentine to give the mixture the
desired consistency. M. E. Canek.
Non-flakingf Whitewash
To prepare whitewash for fences, build-
ings, shop interiors, etc., that will not
flake and fall off, mix 1 part fine Portland
cement with about 8 gallons whitewash.
The cement binds the whitewash to the
wood and makes a permanent covering
which is unaffected by weather conditions.
The small quantity of cement used and the
constant stirring necessary to keep the
whitewash in good condition for applying,
prevents the cement hardening in lumps at
the bottom of the pail, as might be ex-
pected. M. E. Canek.
PLASTER OP PARIS
Mixing" Plaster of Paris
Almost every one has to mix up gypsum
or plaster of parls once in a while, but few
know how to do it so as to make a smooth
cream, or thin dough, without lumps. The
trick is not to pour the water on the plas-
ter, but to turn the latter gradually into
the water, spreading it about in shaking
it in, and to avoid stirring until all the
plaster has been added. The proper quan-
tity of gypsum is usually enough to peep
out over tlie surface of the water over the
greater part of the area ; that is, about
equal volumes of each ingredient. The ad-
dition of glue-water to the mixture retards
setting. RoBEUT Grimshaw.
Hanover, Germany.
Plaster of Paris for Pattern Makingf
For experimental purposes and where but
a few castings of medium and light weight
are required, plaster of paris has many
good advantages as a material for pattei-n
making. It is light, it can be given a
smooth surface, it is easily given any re-
quired shape and it can be added to in-
definitely. While it is brittle, this is more
than offset by the saving in first cost and
the quickness with which the pattern may
be prepared. Plaster of paris sets in from
three to six minutes, but if for any reason
it is desired to keep the mass plastic for a
longer period, one drop of glue to a five-
gallon mixture will keep it soft for a couple
of hours. Plaster of paris mixed with
cold water has an expansion of about 1-lG
inch to the foot when hardening. Should
this be undesirable, mix with warm water
or lime water and there is no expansion.
Donald A. Hampson.
Middletown, N. Y.
To Delay the Setting- of Plaster of
Paris
Citric acid will delay the setting of plas-
ter of paris for several hours. One ounce of
acid, at a cost of about five cents, will be
sufficient to delay the setting of one hun-
dred pounds of plaster of paris for two or
three hours. Dissolve the acid in the water
before mixing the plaster.
Indianapolis, Ind. Otto L. Lewis.
POLISHING AND FINISHING ^WOOD
Mixture for Ebonizing Wood Han-
dles, Etc.
To prepare a mixture for ebonizing wood
handles, etc., use logwood, 2 pounds ; tannic
acid, 1 pound, and sulphate of iron, 1
pound. Apply hot and polish when the
pieces have become dry and cold.
Birmingham, Eng. W. R. Boweks.
Polishing' Wood
A very nice polish on wood is obtained
by using the following mixture : % pint
of alcohol, 14 ounce of shellac, and %
ounce of rosin. Dissolve the shellac and
rosin in the alcohol ; then add i^ pint of
linseed oil, and shake the whole mixture.
Apply with a sponge, brush or flannel. Rub
the wood thoroughly after the application.
E. W. Norton.
To Finish Wooden Handles, Gun
Stocks, Etc.
The wooden parts of tools, the forearms
and stocks of guns, etc., are often made
to have a fine appearance by French pol-
ishing, but this flnish adds little or nothing
to their durability. A much better flnish is
to soak the wood in linseed oil for a week
and then rub it with an oil-soaked cloth
a few minutes every day for a week or two
longer. This solidifies and preserves the
work. A. L. MONRAD.
50
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
TO RECUT OLD FILES
To Becut Old Files
Dissolve four ounces of saleratus in one
quart of water and boil the files in it for
half an hour, wash and dry them. Have
ready in a glass or stoneware vessel 1
quart of rain water to which 4 ounces of
best sulphuric acid have been slowly added,
keeping these proportions for any amount
used. Immerse the files in this prepara-
tion, then wash them clean. Dry quickly
and cover with a little sweet oil. Coarse
files should remain in the diluted sulphuric
acid for about twelve hours, though from
six to eight hours are enough for fine ones.
Files may be recut three times by this
process, and the liquors may be used at
different times if desired. R. B. Casey.
Schenectady, N. Y.
To Becut Old Files
Brush the old files with a wire brush, put
them in a tub, cover them with water and
add 6 ounces of caustic soda per each 100
files. In about two hours brush them
again. They will then be free of grease
and metal. Then put them in a box, lined
with sheet lead, on a wire stand made for
the purpose, and in such a way that they
will not touch one another. Cover them
with a solution made of nitric acid and
water, one pint of acid to each gallon of
water. In 23 minutes remove them, wash
them In water, brush them with a hair
brush and put them back in the liquid to
which one more pint of nitric acid to each
gallon of water has been added. In about
50 minutes remove them again, brush them
after washing them with water and put
them back in the liquid to which has been
added Vi pint of sulphuric acid per each
gallon of water. In 15 minutes remove
them ; wash them first in water, then in
concentrated lime water till all trace of
the acid has disappeared. When dry they
will have the appearance and cutting qual-
ity of new flics. I used this method for
recutting old flies long ago and found it
O. K., and so can recommend it.
Los .Vngeles, Cal. J. M. Meneqius.
EYE WASHES, SALVES, CLEANING COMPOUNDS,
DISINFECTANTS, ETC.
Use of Turpentine for Woiuids
The machinist often cuts or bruises his
hands and by having a small bottle of tur-
pentine handy he can at once bathe the in-
jured part, which will relieve the soreness
and perhaps protect it from blood poisoning.
Angelica, N. Y. F. II. .Jackson.
Mixtures for Cleaning: Grimy Hands
A good mixture for cleaning grimy hands
Is made by poundirg a cake of "Sapolio"
or "Bon Ami" up quite fine, and stirring it
Into a cupful of pure leaf lard, heated very
hot. Stir until well mixed and when it is
partly cool pour into a tin or tins of con-
venient size to get the flngers into.
Worcester, Mass. M. E. Howe.
To Prevent Hands Chapping- in Winter
A machinist's hands are apt to get sore
;ind stiff from exposure. Take a four-ounce
bottle and put in same o ounces glycerine, 1
ounce alcohol, and from 20 to 30 drops of
carbolic acid. After washing the hands.
and while they are a little damp, apply a
few drops and thoroughly rub it in. It is
also good to use at night.
Angelica. N. Y F. H. Jackson.
Artificial Sldn for Burns, Btc.
Dissolve equal parts of gun cotton and
Venice turpentine in 20 parts sulphuric
ether, dissolving the cotton first and then
the turpentine. Keep in a tighly corked
bottle. The use of the turpentine is to
prevent pressure or pinching of the tiesh
caused by the evaporation of the ether
when applied. Water does not affect this
covering, hence its value for burns on the
face or hands. E. W. Norto.n.
For Chapped Hands — Eye Wash
I worked in a drug store for several
years and tried many combinations for
chapped hands and finally selected the fol-
lowing : Bay rum, 3 ounces ; glycerine, 1
ounce: carbolic acid. !{> dram (30 drops).
Wash the hands well and apply while hands
are soft, preferably just before going to
bed. Rub in thoroughly. This rarely fails
to cure the worst "chaps" in two nights.
Also a most excellent eye wash is as
follows : Boric acid, 40 grains ; camphor
water and distilled water, each 2 ounces.
Bathe the eyes freely several times a day.
This is handy to have when the eyes are
infl.imed from having steel or emery, etc.,
in them. George C. Nash.
Rockford. III.
EYE WASHES, SALVES, ETC.
51
To Treat Inflamed Eyes — Care of the
Eyes
The treatment of an inflamed eye Is
a matter of some moment in a machine
shop, and too much care cannot be talcen to
treat such cases scientifically. You have only
two eyes — unless you are a foreman, and
then you are supposed to be a full-fledged
pineapple, as far as eyes are concerned.
A splendid remedy for an inflamed eye
Is a weak solution of powdered borax water
— either warm or cold — applied by rubbing
It in the eye with a cloth, or dropping It
In. It is very soothing and will drive
the soreness and inflammation out and
leave the eye in a better condition than it
was before it was irritated. The proper
proportion is a spoonful of powdered borax
in a glass of water. A mechanic should
always bear in mind that the loss of an
eye may drive him to selling shoe-strings.
A pair of plain eyeglasses will protect the
eyes from chips or emery, and borax water
Is good for tired eyes too — the kind of
eyes you have when working too much over-
time.
Another eye kink is to get a round look-
ing glass about 3 inches in diameter, and
on the back of it near the center attach
a cloth band or strap. I made one with a
ball-and-socket Joint. Now this strap is
made to fit easily around the head, the
glass resting against the forehead. The
function of this glass is to reflect the
light from a distant window on to the
work. It is a very satisfactory rig to wear
when filing to a line or working to a line
on a machine. The finer the glass the
better is the focus of light reflected. By
using a ball-and-socket joint the glass can
be instantly adjusted to throw the light on
the point you wish to see. Every diemaker
ought to have one. Carroll Ashley.
Rochester, N. Y.
able, particularly to a man "off on a Job,"
to keep this simple remedy in mind may be
well worth while. Donald A. IIampson.
Middletown, N. Y.
Preventing- Serious Results from In-
juries from Rusted Objects
Everyone knows how a small wound
caused by rusty pieces of metal oftentimes
develops blood poison, or lockjaw. The fol-
lowing old-fashioned but infallible "first aid
to the injured" may therefore be of value
to remember. An ordinary lump of brown
sugar is heated on the surface sufficiently
hot to produce smoke, and the wound is
held in this smoke for several minutes. No
serious results will follow after this treat-
ment, and all soreness will be taken out of
the wound even though the application takes
place some time after the accident. The smoke
given off by burning woolen rags is equally
effective, and. as they are more often avail-
Disinfectant
It is frequently necessary to disinfect our
offices and shops ; a very effective and inex-
pensive means is as follows: To CVa
ounces of crystals of potassium perman-
ganate, add one pint of formaldehyde (40
per cent) for every 1,000 cubic feet of room
space. The disinfectant should be mixed in
a metal receptacle having at least ten times
the volume of the ingredients used. This
Is required to prevent the mixture from
boiling ov3r. The receptacle holding the
crystals should be placed near the center
of the room which is to be disinfected,
after ascertaining that all doors, windows,
etc., are securely calked to prevent the gas
from escaping. The formaldehyde solution
should be ready to be poured upon the
crystals, which must be done quickly. The
room must then be left closed for at least
thirty-six hours to obtain the best results.
Denver, Col. E. W. Bowen.
Compound for Cleaning the Hands
To loosen the oil and grease, the hands
should first be scrubbed with a stiff brush
dipped in kerosene, and then they should be
wiped dry with waste. Take a five-cent box
of soap powder (I prefer Soapine, because
it lathers freely), add to it an equal quan-
tity of white sand. Mix thoroughly and
rub over the wet hands in the form of a
paste. This compound will rinse off in
any kind of hard or soft, hot or cold water.
Hands washed in this manner twice a day
will be free from grime and clean all over.
New York. H. J. Bachmaxn.
Plaster or Salve for Use in Place of
Stitches
To make a plaster or salve which can be
used in case of accident in place of stitches
where a person has sustained a deep cut,
melt together white rosin, 7 ounces, bees-
wax, 1^ ounce ; mutton tallow, % ounce.
Pour into cold water and work with the
hands until it is thoroughly incorporated,
and roll out Into suitable sticks for use.
When required warm and spread upon a
firm piece of cloth, cutting the wax into
narrow strips In case of deep wounds. It
will be found to hold the edges of the flesh
firmly together. E. W. Norton.
52
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Useful Salve
While a great many shops now have
facilities for attending to shop accidents,
the necessity is often felt by the mechanic
working in a small shop, or outside, for a
useful salve to be applied to wounds in
case of accident. The writer has made the
following salve himself, has used it, and
knows that it is far in advance of most
articles for sale in drug stores at ten times
the price. The ingredients are as follows :
Two parts of swallow oil, five parts of
petrol wax. two parts eucalyptus, and two
parts of beeswax. Arden.
Iiicinid Court Plaster
At your druggist's procure an ounce bot-
tle and have him fill it three-fourths full of
flexible collodion, and fill up with ether.
Apply to cuts, bruises, etc., and it protects
them and will not wash off. If the ether
evaporates, leaving it too thick for use,
have more ether put in to liquefy It. It l3
a good thing to have in the house : also
the tool chest. P. H. Jacksox.
Angelica, N. Y.
MISCELLANEOUS USEFUL RECEIPTS
Marking- Folished Steel
, A very handy way of marking polished
steel for sizes, instructions, etc., is to keep
a small oil can filled with turpentine with
which to saturate a small piece of waste
as needed ; rub over the surface to be
marked and then do the marking with an
indelible copying pencil, which will show up
very plain. Of course the can of turpen-
tine also comes in handy to use for drill-
ing hard steel, springs, etc.
St. Paul, Minn. Arthur Muxch.
Iron or Steel?
To find out whether a piece is steel or
iron touch it with nitric acid, using a
stick of wood, and then wash it with water.
If Iron, a light or azure stain will appear.
If steel, the stain will be black.
Los Angeles, Cal. .1. M. Menegus.
Acid Test for Iron and Steel
A simple acid test for iron and steel is
made as follows : The sample to be tested
should be filed smooth or polished. Then
place it in dilute nitric or sulphuric acid
for from 15 to 20 hours ; then wash and
dry the sample. The best steel then has
a frosty appearance, ordinary steel has a
honeycombed appearance ; and Iron presents
a fibrous structure in the direction In which
it has been worked. A. A.
To Prevent Babbitt Metal or lead from
Exploding*
Before pouring the babbitt metal, throw
In a piece of rosin, the size of a walnut and
allow It to melt. If the bearings to be
lined with babbitt are warmed before pour-
ing, the metal will run better, thus insuring
a better job. R. B. Casey.
Schenectady. N. Y
Mixtures for Making- Plug Cocks and
Glass Stoppers Tight
To make an anti-leak and lubricating
mixture for plug cocks use 2 parts of tried
suet and 1 part of beeswax melted together ;
stir thoroughly, strain and cool.
A mixture for making glass stoppers tight
Is made by melting together equal parts of
glycerine and paraffin. L. S. Bcrbank.
Worcester, Mass.
To Keep Steel Tools in Their Handles
To keep steel tools In their handles, fill
the handle with powdered rosin and a little
rotten stone. Heat the tang of the tool
hot, and then push it down hard Into the
handle ; when It is cold it will be firmly
set. M. E. Howe.
Worcester, Mass.
Strop Paste for Xtazors and Keen Edge
Tools
An excellent strop paste for edging
razors or other keen-edge tools is a mixture
of levigated oxide of tin, 1 ounce, powdered
oxalic acid, i/4 ounce ; powdered gum, 20
grains. Mix to a paste with water, spread
evenly over, and work well into the strop
with some smooth surface. The rough side
of the strop gives best results.
Denver, Col. E. W. Bowen.
To Dissolve Glass
A hole may be cut or etched through
glass readily by using hydrofluoric acid.
The acid should be applied in the same way
as etching acid, using wax to surround the
portion of the glass which is to be pene-
trated. Hydrofluoric acid is sold In was
bottles, as it cannot be kept In glass. It
may be handled with a Tiard rubber dropper
similar in construction to the ordinary glass
medicine droppers. S. W. Green*.
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS
53
Acid Pickling- for Forg-ing-s
To remove scale from drop forglngs
which have to be machined, dip in a piclile
composed of hot water 24 parts, sulphuric
acid 1 part. Hardener.
To Write Black on Glass or Brig^ht
Metal
To write black on glass or bright metal,
use 1 to 2 parts of silicate of soda with
10 parts of India ink. Write with a steel
pen. F. H. Jackson.
Angelica, N. Y.
To Cut Off Glass Tubes
Saturate a cotton string in kerosene,
wrap it around the glass tube where you
wish to have it cut, set fire to the string,
and when all parts are ablaze, plunge the
glass in a pail of water. Give the top of
the glass a light blow with a stick, and
there will be an even break all around.
Detroit, Mich. Charles Sherman.
To Remove Steel Chips from Jig-s and
the I^ike
It is often very desirable to remove chips
of steel from jigs and the like each time
a new piece is inserted. An easy way to
do this is to put a pound of caustic soda in
a gallon of water and dip the jig in every
time it is desired to remove the chips.
Winnetka, III. F. Pavlik, Jr.
To Remove Hard Grease, Paint, Etc.,
from Machinery
To remove grease, paint, etc., from ma-
■chinery add half a pound of caustic soda
to two gallons of water and boll the parts
to be cleaned in the fluid. It is possible
to use it several times before its strength
is exhausted. F. Pavlik, Jr.
Winnetka, III.
The Use of Brass Wire in Brazing
In place of spelter use wire or rod brass
and boracic acid as a flux. Anneal the end
of wire or rod by heating, while the joint
is getting hot, and after dipping the rod
Into boracic acid, apply to the joint, the rod
melting at the end will flow into the Joint.
After the joint is cooled, submerge in hot
soda water ; this will take off every parti-
cle of acid, leaving only the brass to be
filed off. F. H. Jackson.
Angelica, N. Y.
To Weld Spring Steel
An experienced blacksmith has used for
years the following in welding steel
springs. Just before the steel comes to a
welding heat he placed a small piece of
Russian sheet Iron — such as stove bodies
are made of — on the joint ; this melts and
runs into the joint so that the weld is
pel feet. X. Y. Z.
Steel Welding Compound
A good compound for welding cast steel
is made as follows: 41% parts, boracic
acid ; 35 parts, common salt ; 20 parts, fer-
rocyanide of potassium; 7% parts, rosin;
4 parts, carbonate of sodium. Heat the
pieces to be welded to a light red heat and
apply above compound, then heat to a
strong yellow heat and the welding may be
accomplished in the usual manner.
The usual precaution applies, of course,
in the use of the above, the same as with
any of the cyanides, and that Is to avoid
breathing the poisonous fumes. A. A.
Bicycle Tire Anti-leak
Many machinists ride their bicycles to
and from work and are consequently in-
terested iu anything that will make tires
more nearly puncture-proof. I have not
tried the following anti-leak compound, but
infer from a note in the English Mechanic
that it works successfully on both single
and inner-tube tires. Mix \i pint of silicate
of soda (water glass), ^4 pint of commer-
cial glycerine and a large tablespoonful of
rubberine ; inject about a teacupful into
the tire. If too thick, a little water can be
mixed with it to thin it. If rubberine is
not available use powdered rosin.
M. E. Canek.
Process for Pulverizing Borax
To a two-gallon pail of boiling water add
as much borax as will dissolve — and a sur-
prising amount will dissolve — 12 to 15
pounds in two gallons of water. When as
much borax is added to the boiling water
as will dissolve, set the pail In cold water,
running water preferred. Stir contents
vigorously, which will in a few minutes
form into a thick mass ; spread this out
thin on some smooth surface, as tin, where
it will soon dry to flakes which, when
handled, will crumble to dust. This process
is employed here at the Rock Island ar-
senal. Albert D. Knacel.
Moline, HI.
54
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Restore Burnt Steel
To restore burnt cast steel heat the piece
to a red heat and sprinkle over it a mix-
ture of 8 parts, red chromate of potassium ;
4 parts, saltpeter ; % part, aloes ; % part,
gum arable, and V4 part, rosin. A. A.
Anti-freezing Solution
A solution for water jackets on gas en-
gines that will not freeze at any tempera-
ture ftbove 20 degrees below zero may be
made by combining 100 parts of water by
weight with 75 parts of carbonate potash
and 50 parts of glycerine. This solution is
non-corrosive and will remain perfectly
liquid at all temperatures above its con-
gealing point.
Be-inking" Time-clock Bibbons
For re-inking time-clock ribbons we use
the following receipt for black : 1 ounce
aniline black ; 15 ounces pure grain alcohol ;
15 ounces concentrated glycerine. Dissolve
the aniline black in the alcohol and then
add the glycerine. For blue use prussian
blue, and for red use red lead instead of
the aniline black. This ink is also good
for rubber stamp pads.
Moline, 111. Albert D. Knauel.
To Cut Cork
In cutting cork, the knife should be kept
greased. Where, however, the desired piece
is symmetrical about one axis, and of cir-
cular cross-section, it may best be roughed
with a greasy knife and then ground to
profile with a coarse emery wheel. Cork
pen-holders are made in this way. Where
many pieces are to be cut out of sheet
cork, it is advisable to use a band knife,
against which there is kept pressed a block
of grease. Robert Grimshaw.
Hanover, Germany.
To Punch Hard Rubber
To punch hard rubber successfully heat
the punch and die, or the material. The
blanks usually curl or wrinkle into almost
every conceivable shape in the operation of
cutting. To straighten and bring them
back to their original outline, allow the
punchings to drop into a pan of hot water.
The action of the hot water causes the
curled parts to return to their former flat
shape, the same as before passing through
the die. L. C. Carr.
Lynn, Mass.
Insulating Covering for Steam Pipes
and Boilers
To one barrel of lime use six barrels of
sawdust. Slake the lime in an ordinary
mortar bed, and when slaked mix in the
sawdust, using enough mortar to make it of
the consistency of mortar. Apply when the
steam is on. The covering is adapted for
steam pipes and boilers, more especially in
sawmills and other places where a box can
be built around the pipe so as to hold the
mixture in place. It is approved by insur-
ance companies. Theodore Disch.
Milwaukee, Wis.
To Test Galvanized Wire
The Western Union Telegraph Co. sub-
jects Its wires to the following test in
order to ascertain that they are well gal-
vanized. The wire is plunged into a satu-
rated solution of sulphate of copper (blue
vitriol), and permitted to remain in this
for one minute, after which it is wiped
clean. This process is repeated four times.
If the wire appears black after the fourth
immersion, it shows that the zinc has not
all been removed, and that the galvanizing
has been well done ; but if it has a copper
color, the iron is exposed, showing that the
zinc coating is too thin. O. G.
To Test White Iiead
This simple test to determine the purity
of white lead may be found useful where
much painting is being done. It is as fol-
lows : Select a piece of charcoal of firm
structure, and hollow out a cavity in one
side about % inch in diameter and of the
same depth. Put a sample of white load
in the hollow about the size of a pea, and
subject it for a few moments to a blow-pipe
flame. If the sample is pure, it will quickly
reduce to metallic lead. Adulterated white
lead will generally contain a residue that
cannot be reduced. M. E. Caxek.
Packing for Gas Engine Cylinders and
Pipe Carrying Gasoline Vapor
To prepare packing for joints in pipes,
etc., carrying gasoline vapor, mix a quan-
tity of graphite and kerosene to a thick
paste and apply the paste to both sides of
sheet asbestos. When dry the packing may
be cut to the shape desired. The graphite
helps the asbestos make intimate contact
with the iron and thus maintain a tight
joint continuously at high temperature for
an indefinite time. H. J. Bachmanx.
New York.
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS
55
Facbingf fox Gasoline Pumps
For packing pumps on gasoline engines
use asbestos wick-packing rubbed full of
regular laundry soap ; it will work without
undue friction and will pack tightly. Com-
mon rubber-packing is not as good, as the
gasoline cuts it out. A. A.
To Remove CS-rease or Dirt from
Mercury
To cleanse mercury first put a ten per
cent solution of nitric acid in an iron ladle,
and then the mercury to be cleaned ; place
same over a blacksmith's forge until the
nitric acid boils. The dirt will then rise
to the top, and leave the mercury perfectly
clean in the bottom. Care must be used
not to let the mercury boil, as the fumes
are very poisonous. H. C.
Investig-ating- Adulterations in Belts
and Iieather
Some manufacturers make their belts
and leather heavier in the following way :
The leather is kept in a current of steam
at low temperature until its pores are well
open. Then it is put in a solution of
glucose. The leather absorbs the liquid,
and in drying the water evaporates and
the pores close, retaining the glucose. To
find out whether belts or leather have un-
dergone this operation, put a piece of the
suspected leather in some distilled water,
and when it is well soaked, half fill a glass
tube with some of the water, add a few
drops of sulphate of copper, and fill the
tube with a solution of caustic potash. Stir
the liquid well and let it boil on an alcohol
lamp. If the leather is natural, no change
will take place in the liquid, but if it con-
tains glucose, a characteristic precipitate
of copper will form, due to the action of
the glucose on the solution of sulphate of
copper and potash. .T. M. Menegu.s.
Los Angeles, Cal.
To Babbitt Crossheads
Some classes of engines have a single
bar guide, with a crosshead of the en-
closed type, three sides of which are bab-
bitt lined. The crosshead is put in place
on piston rod and guide and the babbitt
poured in. I find it an advantage to coat
the guide heavily with white lead before
pouring the babbitt. This allows the
crosshead to be removed with little trouble
and requires but little scraping to get a
good running fit. J. V. N. Cheney.
South Portland, Me.
Washing- Oily Waste
The following is an excellent method of
washing oily waste. The chief objection
to most of the common methods employed
is that the waste, after being dried. Is
found to be matted and of a hard, gritty
texture. The common method of washing
the waste, using sal-soda in solution, is a
good one, as far as the cleaning qualities
are concerned, but it leaves the waste hard
and matted, so that it is difficult to handle.
A simple remedy for this is to rinse the
waste (after being cleaned in the sal-soda
solution), in very hot water, to which has
been added a quantity of liquid ammonia.
This will render the waste soft and light
when dry. T. E. O'Do.vnell.
Urbana, 111.
Molding Mixture for Rubber Stamps
and Patterns
The following mixture is one which can
be used for making molds for rubber stamps,
special shapes of rubber, or for compli-
cated, odd, or queer-shaped patterns of
small size, as the working must be done
inside of ten minutes ; the surface takes
a finish as smooth as glass if well rubbed.
If an impression is to be made, the surface
of the type or article to be impressed
should be rubbed with a solution of kero-
sene, and graphite. Plaster of paris, 5
pounds ; French chalk, 2 pounds ; china
clay, 2 pounds ; dextrine, 14 pound. Mix
with dextrine water, which is made by dis-
solving 1 pound of dextrine in one gallon
of water. Frank G. Sterling.
Lowell, Mass.
To Mend Broken Oilstones
A valuable oilstone can usually be saved
when broken, even if there should be sev-
eral pieces. The pieces must first be thor-
oughly cleaned and all oil driven from the
fractured surfaces by heating on a hot iron
plate. After the surfaces to be joined are
properly prepared, they are well dusted
with powdered shellac and again heated
until the shellac is melted and flows well
into the joints. The heating should be
done on a smooth metal plate and the stone
kept from the flame ; otherwise it is likely
to crack in other places. Neither must it
be overheated, for the same reason. When
the shellac has melted, the parts are pressed
together and clamped until they have
cooled. A joint so made often lasts as long
as the stone, and if carefully made leaves
no mar in the cutting surface.
Chicago, 111. O. M. Beckek.
56
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
To Scale Cast Iron
To remove the scale from cast iron use a
solution of 1 part vitriol anfl 2 parts water ;
after mixing, apply to the scale with a cloth
rolled in the form of a brush, using enough
to wet the surface well. After 8 or 10
hours wash off with water, when the hard
scaly surface will be completely removed.
Schenectady, N. Y. R. B. Casey.
To Braze Steel and Iron Without Heat
To braze steel or iron without heat take
1/4 ounce fluoric acid, 2 ounces of brass
filings, and 1 ounce of steel filings. Put
them all into the fluoric. Touch each
part of the work with the mixture, and
put them together. Take care that the
fluoric acid Is put into an earthen vessel.
Rochester, N. Y. Joseph M. Stabel.
To Clean Jewelry, Silverware and
metals
The following receipt is one that not all
jewelers know. It is also a good prepara-
tion to clean the hands with ; it will not
crack the hands if vaseline is rubbed in
well immediately after rinsing them off in
water.
Make a saturated solution of cyanide of
potassium by taking a quantity of water,
and dissolving the cyanide in it, until no
more cyanide will dissolve. Dip the article
in this solution until the dirt Is eaten off
(this takes but a short time), then rinse
off in hot water, and dry in boxwood saw-
dust. The article will then look better than
when new. Parke B. Shee.
St. Paul, Minn.
Receipt for Making' Wax Tapers for
Cores
Take equal parts of beeswax and pow-
dered rosin. Melt the wax, sprinkle in the
powdered rosin, and stir until well mixed.
If beeswax cannot be had, use parafline.
This composition does not soften the core
as does the ordinary parafflne tapers, be-
cause the rosin goes into the core when
it is baked and hardens it. If parafline is
used it is better to make the tapers by dip-
ping cotton wicking into the melted com-
position, as the parafline makes it rather
brittle. When beeswax is used, the wicking
is not necessary, and the tapers can be
formed in the same manner as that em-
ployed by pattern-makers in forming bees-
wax fillets. John B. Sperry.
Aurora. 111.
Die Sinkers' Impression Wax
In the following I give two receipts for
die-sinkers' impression wax. In the first
the exact proportions of some of the In-
gredients are not given, but the maker can
use his own judgment, gradually adding
more of one than the other until the right
consistency is obtained. 1. Beeswax, 6
parts ; white wax, 1 part : a small quantity
of cornstarch ; sufficient Racine castor oil
to make it of the desired consistency. Add
stearine if too soft. 2. Another receipt is
two parts of beeswax, and one part bay-
berry wax. I have found powdered chalk
useful to remove the stickiness of this wax.
Niagara Falls, N. Y. C. W. Shelly.
Making- Wax Impressions
It often happens that it is required in
the manufacture of goods to make a wax
impression of a sample or model. To do
this successfully proceed as follows : Oil
the surface of which the impression is to
be made very slightly with a few drops of
oil applied to a little waste. Then take
common beeswax, melt it slowly, but do not
boil it. Mix it with one or two tablespoon-
fuls of lampblack to half a tumbler of
beeswax and stir the mixture. In order to
make the wax impression show up clearly,
take a fine hair brush and brush a little
powdered graphite or rouge over the object
on which the impression is to be made.
Wallingford, Conn. C. W. Shelly.
For Washing- Shop Windows
Soap and water are poor materials with
which to wash greasy and dirty shop win-
dows. The labor cost is excessive ; the
soapy water gets into the joints of the
window sashes and hastens decay ; and
there is liable to be a good deal of soapy
water slopped over benches, tools and ma-
chines. The quick way, the economical
way, and the good way, is to use the fol-
lowing preparation, which has been used
by the writer with good success and satis-
faction for the past ten years. Dilute
alcohol with three times its bulk of water.
Stir into this whiting enough to thicken
it somewhat. Apply this to the glass with
a cotton cloth or waste. Leave it fifteen
or twenty minutes to dry. Then rub off
with a cotton cloth or a handful of waste.
If sashes are to be painted, there will be
no need of a long wait for the wood to
dry, as the alcohol will very much hasten
the evaporation of the water and leave the
woodwork in fine condition for the painter.
Peabody, Mass. Oscar E. Peuuigo.
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS
57
Satin Finish on Aluminum
The article sLould first be dipped in a
caustic soda or caustic potash solution —
potash preferred— then thoroughly washed
in clear water i^nd dipped in a bath of
concentrated nitric acid, after which it
should be thoroughly washed and dried in
hot sawdust. The caustic solution should
be prepared in a tank provided with a
steam ceil and should test with Baumes'
hydrometer at anywhere between 20 and
30. The length of time an article should
remain in the caustic solution is a matter
of judgment. The solution should attack
the aluminum rapidly, and upon removing
the article from the solution, the solution
should boil furiously on the metal. After
washing, the articles should show a very
black color, which turns to a silvery white
finish upon dipping in the nitric acid. The
best temperature for the caustic solution
is at 200 degrees F., just below the boiling
point. By the use of a steam coil the
solution can be kept at an even tempera-
ture, and the strength of the solution can
be maintained by adding small quantities
of caustic from time to time. The tem-
perature and strength of the solution are
very imporrrjit.
The principal point to bear In mind in
washing and drying is to dry without
streaks, which is accomplished if the saw-
dust contains no pitch or rosin.
This finish can be improved by scratch-
brushing the article before dipping or by
first dipping in the two solutions and then
scratch-brushing and afterward dipping
again. The scratch-brushing destroys the
grain of the metal and reduces the possi-
bility of the article drying with streaks.
Bridgeport, Conn. S. H. Sweet.
To Prepare Fine Abrasive Quickly
To quickly prepare fine abrasive use
FFF emery or "15-minute" carborundum
with benzine or naphtha for a liquid, mix-
ing them in a square bottle. Use about
two ounces of the abrasive to one quart of
liquid ; shake well and then lay the bottle
flat on its side for the number of minutes
needed to settle ; then pull the cork and
let the liquid flow out until level with the
cork hole bottom. The liquid just drawn
off can be used at once with a brush, but
by allowing it to stand for a time, the top
portion can be poured off, leaving the
abrasive with a little benzine which will
evaporate quickly, and leave the clear
powder.
In explanation of the term "15-minute"
carborundum, would say that this is a
term applied to fine abrasive obtained by
the process just explained (manufacturers,
of course, using water-tanks instead of bot-
tles), the time the liquid is allowed to
stand, In minutes, being used to distinguish
it. Thus, if it stands 15 minutes it will
be known as 15-minute abrasive, etc.
SCOTTI.
Cleaning' Fluid for Fine Fabrics
This cleaning fluid may not be of much
use in the shop, but if some machinist
should get the machine shop grime on his
"Sunday-go-to-meeting" trousers, he will
find it useful for cleaning out the spots; it
works like magic : Sulphuric ether, three
drams ; alcohol, six drams ; chloroform, three
drams ; gasoline, one quart. The mixture can
be used safely for cleaning the most deli-
cate fabrics, but being highly inflammable,
it must be used with caution around fires
and open lights. M. E. Canek.
To Prepare Tripoli or Emery Cake
Tripoli, emery cake and crocus are all
made in practically the same manner, the
change being made in the composition when
it is desired to have the composition more
greasy. Melt tallow and paraflSne wax or
beeswax together. Beeswax is by far the
best, but the cost of the same has led to
the use of paraffine, which in many cases
will work equally as well. After the tallow
and wax are thoroughly melted, add trlpoli
or emery, whichever is to be made, a little
at a time and stir In well until it Is as
thick as is possible to make it ; then pour
out into a large tin, or better still, into
the molds made for the purpose, and allow
to cool. J- L- Lucas.
Bridgeport, Conn.
To IVIiz Iiampblack and Shellac
Mixing lampblack and shellac is not so
simple a matter as it appears, as many an
amateur and novice has found out. The
tendency is to form lumps, when the two
are mixed by throwing or even sifting the
former into the latter. The lumps of course
can be reduced and an intimate mixture
obtained by considerable patience with a
paddle or pestle. The whole diflSculty is
easily avoided if the lampblack is first wet
with alcohol and throughly worked down
into a soft paste with a paddle or spatula.
The black paste is then added to the shellac
and mixed uniformly by stirrmg. The re-
sult is a smooth flowing and working
shellac. Other pigments can be treated in
the same way. O. M. B.
58
SHOP RECEIPTS AND FORMULAS
Cast Iron Brazing
The ingredients for this cast iron brazing
may be had at any first-class drug store
and should cost no more than about 50
cents. They consist of 1 pound of boric
acid, 4 ounces pulverized chlorate potash,
and 3 ounces carbonate of iron. These in-
gredients should be thoroughly mixed, and
kept perfectly dry (a glass jar or bottle
answering the purpose), and when wanted
for use, a small amount should be taken
and mixed with grain spelter. In trying
this brazing for the first time, take a piece
of cast iron of say one square inch cross-
section, hold the broken parts together by
clamps, and fit the break closely in order
to form a strong joint. Use a gas forge if
possible, but an ordinary blacksmith's forge
will do if no gas forge is available. When
a blacksmith's forge is used, use charcoal,
and be sure to get a high heat. When the
pieces of the casting are in place, heat the
joint to a good bright red before applying
the flux. Then apply it liberally with an
iron rod, flattened on the end, and work
along the fracture, gradually raising the
heat to almost a white heat. Then shut
off the heat and allow the casting to cool
slowly. If this work is done carefully, the
joint will be as strong or stronger than the
original casting.
Another formula is : 1 pound of boric
acid, 3 ounces of caustic soda, and 3 ounces
of carbonate of iron. This is mixed with
spelter in the same way as in the first
formula, and must also be kept dry. The
main points to keep in mind when brazing
cast iron are to have the metal clean and
free from grease ; not to apply the flux until
a bright red is reached and then to be sure
to raise the heat high enough to make the
mixture flow nicely. Ethan Viall.
Decatur, III.
ANTIDOTES FOR POISONS
Antidote for Nitrate of Silver
In case of poisoning by nitrate of silver
take large doses of salt dissolved in water,
after which take one teaspoonful of mus-
tard flour in warm water.
Antidotes for Compounds of Arsenic
In cases of poisoning by compounds of
arsenic take a teaspoonful of mustard flour
in warm water, then plenty of oil or milk
or linseed tea.
Antidote for Ether
When vapors of ether are inhaled, the
effect is similar to that of chloroform.
Cases of this kind should be treated by cold
effusions and artificial respiration.
Antidotes for Ammonia Acid, etc.
In a case of poisoning by ammonia, soda
potash, alkaline, silicate and sulphates, take
strong vinegar with water, large doses of
oil or large doses of milk. Vapor of am-
monia may cause inflammation of the lungs.
Antidote for Oxalic Acid
In case of poisoning by oxalic acid, and
its salts, take very thick paste of lime and
water by large spoonfuls at a time. After
several doses take large drafts of lime
water, and finally about four ounces of
castor oil.
Antidote for Prussic Acid and its Salts
In case of poisoning by prussic acid and
its salts, cyanide, sulpho-cyanides and
nitro-benzine, apply continuous and heavy
douches of ice cold water on head and
spinal column, mustard plasters on the
stomach and soles of the feet, and prevent
sleep.
licad Poisoning
Lead poisoning is indicated bv constric-
tion in the throat and stomach, crampy
pains, and blue lines around the gums. As
an antidote take sulphate of soda or mag-
nesia or a teaspoonful of mustard flour in
warm water, and strong solutions of Epsom
salts in cold water.
Antidotes for Acids
In a case of poisoning by carbonic, sul-
phuric, nitric, muriatic, nitro-muriatic or
phosphoric acids, take the white of an egg
well beaten up with water or a teaspoonful
of mustard flour in a cup of hot water.
In the case of sulphuric, nitric, muriatic
or nitro-muriatic acids, a dose of very
thick lime water acts as an antidote.
INDEX
Abrasive, To Prepare Fine 57
Acid-proof Cement 16
Acids for Etching 17
Alcohol-proof Cement 15
Alloy for Filling Holes in Cast Iron 9
Alloys for Drawing Colors on Steel 21
Alloys, Miscellaneous 41
Aluminum, Lubricant for Turning 42
Aluminum, Satin Finish on 57
Aluminum Solder 37
Aluminum to Other Metals, Soldering... 38
Annealing Cast Iron for Drilling 24
Annealing High-speed Steel 21
Annealing Iron Castings 25
Annealing Steel and Other Metals 23
Antidotes for Poisons 58
Anti-friction Metal 41
Arc Lamp Carbons, Cement for 16
Asbestos or Other Fabrics to Iron, To
Glue 12
Babbitt Metal or Lead from Exploding,
To Prevent 52
Babbitting Cross-heads 55
Bearings, Lubricants for 41
Belt and Rope Dressings 45
Belt Cements 12
Belts and Leather, Investigating Adul-
terations in 55
Bicycle Tire Anti-leak 53
Black Color on Steel, Producing 27
Blacking Brass 31
Blue and Brown Colors on Steel, Pro-
ducing 26
Blue-print Paper, Solutions for Prepar-
ing 4
Blue-print Writing Fluids 3
Blue-prints, Methods of Treating 4
Blue-prints, Retouching 4
Blue-prints, Varnish for 47
Blue-prints, Waterproofing 5
Bluing Brass 31
Boiler Furnace, Emergency Repairs of . . 46
Boilers and Steam Pipes, Insulating
Covering for 54
Borax, Pulverizing 53
Brass Castings 30
Brass, Nickel and Steel, Polishing , 25
Brass or Copper on Iron, Producing
Coatings of 28
Brass, Producing Coatings on 31
Brazing, Cast Iron 58
Brazing Steel and Iron Without Heat. . 56
Brazing, Use of Brass Wire in 53
Bronze, Bright Dip for 32
Bronze Castings, Acid Dip for 33
Bronze Finish for Yellow Brass 35
Bronze, Recoloring 33
Bronzing Fluid for Steel 28
Bronzing Powder, Silver White 32
Brown and Blue Colors on Steel, Pro-
ducing 26
Brown-prints, Methods of Treating.... 4
Burns, Artificial Skin for 50
Case-harden for Colors 23
Case-hardening 22
Case-hardening Cast Iron 24
Case-hardening, Local 23
Case-hardening, To Imitate 30
Cast Iron Brazing 58
Cast Iron, Filling for 8
Cast Iron, Lubricant for Tapping Holes
in 42
Cast Iron, Methods for Chilling, Soften-
ing, Case-hardening, etc 24
Cast Iron Patterns, Varnish for 47
Cast Iron, Producing Unchanging Gloss
on 25
Cast Iron, Tinning 29
Cast Iron, To Scale 56
Celluloid, To Write on 7
Cement for Switchboard Repair 15
Cement, Water- and Oil-proof 9
Cements for Attaching Cloth, Emery,
etc., to Iron 11
Cements for Attaching Glass and Mar-
ble to Metals 14
Cements for Belts 12
Cements for Cast Iron 8
Cements for Gluing Emery, Metals, etc.,
to Wood 15
Cements for Leather, and Leather and
Metals 12
Cements for Metals 7
Cements for Miscellaneous Purposes. . . 15
Cements for Pipe Joints 10
Chalk Preparation for Tracings 7
Chilling Cast Iron 24
Clays and Clay Substitutes 46
Cleaning Compounds 50
Cleaning Fluid for Fine Fabrics 57
Cloth to Iron, Cement for Attaching. . 11
Coated Surfaces on Brass, Bronze, Cop-
per, Zinc and Tin, Producing 31
Coating Processes for Iron and Steel,
Miscellaneous 29
Coatings of Copper or Brass on Iron ... 28
Color on Steel, Producing Black 27
Colors on Steel, Producing Blue and
Brown 26
Copper Brass for Laying-out Work.... 32
Copper, Bright Dip for 32
Copper Coating on Brass for Laying
Out Work 31
Copper, Etching on 17
60
INDEX
Copper, Lubricant for Turning 43
Copper or Brass on Iron, Producing
Coatings of 28
Copper Plating Cast Iron 29
Copper to Aluminum, Soldering 38
Copper, To Anneal Finished 23
Copper Wires, Soldering Paste for.... 38
Copper witli Tin, To Coat Brass or.... 32
Cores, Making Wax Tapers for 56
Cork, To Cut 54
Court Plaster, Liquid 52
Cross-heads, To Babbitt 55
Die Sinkers' Impression Wax 56
Dies, Lubricant for Drawing 45
Dies, To Harden Fine 19
Disinfectants 50
Drafting-room Receipts, Miscellaneous.. G
Drawing Titles from Rubbing Off, To
Prevent 7
Drawings, To Remove Grease Stains
from 7
Drawings, Varnish for 47
Drilling Compound 43
Drills for Cutting Glass, To Harden 18
Ebonizing Wood Handles, etc 49
Electro-plating, Silver Solution for 32
Emery Cake or Tripoli, To Prepare 57
Emery to Iron, Cement for Attaching. . . 11
Enamels and Lacquers for Steel 28
Etching Fluids 17
Eye Washes 50
Files, To Recut Old 50
Filling for Cast Iron 8
Fire and Waterproofing Receipts 45
Fire Clay 46
Flux for Brass Castings 31
Forges, Clay Mixture for 46
Forgings, Pickling for 53
Frosting Brass Work 31
Galvanized Wire, To Tost 54
Gas Engine Cylinders, Packing for 54
Gasoline Pumps, Packing for 55
Glass and Marble to Metals, Cements for
Attaching , 14
Glass, To Dissolve 52
Glass, To Write on 53
Glass Tubes, To Cut off 53
Glue for Leather Belts 13
Gluod Joints, To waterproof 16
Glues and Their Preparation 16
Glycerine-litharge Cement 16
Gold Solder 39
Gold Solders 40
Grease for Gear Wheels 42
Grinder Disks, Cement for 11
Gun Barrels, To Blue 27
Gun-metal Finish 35
Gun Stocks To Finish Wooden 49
Hands, To Prevent Chapping of 50
Hardening and Tempering Carbon Steel 18
Hardening Bath 20
Hardening Cast Iron 24
Hardening High-speed Steel 22
Inks for Blue-prints, Colored 3
Jewelry, Silverware, etc., To Clean.... 56
Lacquer for Brass 34
Lacquers and Enamels for Steel 28
Lampblack and Shellac, To Mix 57
Lathe Center Lubricants 41
Lead or Babbitt Metal from Exploding,
To Prevent 52
Lead Sticking to Work. To Prevent Hot 20
Lead, To Prevent the Sticking of Hot. 19
Lead, To Test White 54
Leather and Belts, Investigating Adul-
terations in 55
Leather, and Leather and Metals, Ce-
ments for 12
Leather, To waterproof 45
Lubricants for Bearings, Lathe Cen-
ters, etc 41
Lubricants for Machining or Working
Metals 42
Marble and Glass to Metals, Cements
for Attaching 14
Marking Polished Steel 52
Mercury, To Remove Grease or Dirt
from 55
Metal, To Write on Bright 53
Miscellaneous Useful Receipts 52
Molding Mixture for Rubber Stamps
and I'atterns 55
Molds for Brass Work, Dusting for.... 31
Mottled Case-hardened Articles 22
Nickel Coatings on Metal Surfaces, Pro-
ducing Black 34
Nickel, Steel and Brass, Polishing 25
Oil for Delicate Machinery 41'
Oil for Micrometer Screws 42
Oil, Preservative 37
Oilstones, To Mend Broken 55
Packing for Gas Engine Cylinders and
Pipes Carrying Gasoline Vapor 54
Packing for Gasoline Pumps 55
Paint from Machinery, To remove 53
Paints and Whitewashes 48
Paper Labels to Iron and Steel, To
fasten H
Pattern-making, Plaster of Paris for. . . 49
Pickling Brass Castings 30
Pickling for Forgings 53
Pipe Joints, Cements' for 10
Plaster of Paris 49
Poisons, Antidotes for 58
Polishing and Finishing Wood 49
Polishing Brass, Nickel and Steel 25
Portland-tar Cement 16
Pulleys with Rubber, To cover 12
Razors, Strop Paste for 52
Rope and Belt Dressings 45
Rubber Goods, Cement for 15
INDEX
61
Rubber Stamps and Tatterns, Molding
Mixture for 55
Rubber, To cover Iron Pulleys with.... 12
Rubber to Iron or other Metals, Cement
for Attaching 12
Rubber, To punch Hard 54
Rubber to Wood, To fasten 15
Rust Joint 8
Rust Removers and Preventatives 36
Salves 50
Screws from Getting Rusty, To Prevent 3C
Shellac and Lampblack, To Mix 57
Shellac Cement 15
Shellac Varnish, To clarify 47
Shellac Varnish, To imnrove the Color
of 48
Silver Paste for Brass 35
Silver Solder for Brazing 40
Silver Solution for Electro-plating.... 32
Silverware, etc., To Clean 56
Solders and Soldering Acids 37
Springs, Mixture for Hardening Spiral . 19
Springs, To Temper Small Coil 20
Steam Pipe Cement 10
Steam Pipes and Boilers, Insulating
Covering for 54
Steel, Acid Test for Iron or 52
Steel and Iron without Heat, To braze 56
Steel and other Metals, Annealing 23
Steel, Brass and Nickel, Polishing 25
Steel, Bronzing Fluid for 28
Steel, Etching Fluid for 17
Steel, Hardening and Tempering Carbon 18
Steel, Heat Treatment of High-speed... 21
Steel, Lacquers ana Enamels for 28
Steel, Lubricants for Working Hard.... 42
Steel, Marking Polished 52
Steel, Miscellaneous Finishing and Coat-
ing Processes for Iron and 29
Steel, Producing Black Color on 27
Steel, Producing Blue and Brown Colors
on 26
Steel, To remove Rust from 36
Steel, To restore Burnt 54
Steel, Varnish for 47
Steel Welding Compound 53
Steel, Welding Spring 53
Switchboard Repairs. Cement for 15
Tempering Carbon Steel, , Hardening and 18
Thread Cutting, Lubricant for 43
Time-clock Ribbons, Re-inking 54
Tin for Laying out. To blacken 33
Tin, To coat Brass or Copper with.... 32
Tinning Cast Iron 29
Tinning Process for Use on Iron, Brass
or Steel 30
Tinning Wash for Brass Work 31
Tracing Cloth for Inking, Method of
Preparing 7
Tracings, Chalk Preparation for 7
Tracings, To clean 6
Tripoli or Emery Cake, To prepare.... 57
Turpentine for Wounds, Use of 50
Vandyke Prints more Transparent, To
make 4
Varnishes 47
Washing Shop Windows 56
Waste, Washing Oily 55
Water Pipe Joints, Cement for High-
pressure 11
Water Pipes, Cement for 10
Waterproof Cement 9
Waterproof Cements 16
Waterproof Marking Paint for Stone... 49
Waterproof Paint for Plaster 48
Waterproofing Blue-prints 5
Waterproofing Glued Joints 16
Waterproofing Receipts 45
Wax, Die Sinkers' Impression 56
Wax Impressions, Making 56
Wax Tapers for Cores, Making 56
Welding Compound, Steel 53
Welding Spring Steel 53
White Lead, To Test 54
Whitewashes and Paints 48
Windows, Washing Shop 56
Wire, To test Galvanized 54
Wood, Cements for Gluing Emery, Met-
als, etc.. To 15
Wood, Polishing and Finishing 49
Wood, To fireproof 46
Writing Fluids for Blue-prints 3
Zinc Black for Templet Work, To Coat. 32
Zinc Dust Cement 8
Zinc Paint for Oil Wells of Bearings. ; . '48
Zinc, To anneal 24
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