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MAINE 

A  GUIDE   'DOWN   EAST' 


AMERICAN          GUIDE          SERIE 

MAINE 

A   GUIDE   'DOWN   EAST' 


Written  by  Workers  of  the  Federal  Writers'  Project  of  the 
Works    Progress   Administration   for   the    State    of   Maine 

SPONSORED  BY  THE  MAINE  DEVELOPMENT  COMMISSION 


Illustrated 


HOUGHTON       MIFFLIN       COMPANY        -       BOSTON 
Vfe  SUtertffte  $re««  Cambrftge 


COPYRIGHT,  IQ37,  BY  EVERETT  F.  GREATON 
EXECUTIVE  SECRETARY,  MAINE  DEVELOPMENT  COMMISSION 

ALL  RIGHTS  RESERVED  INCLUDING  THE  RIGHT  TO  REPRODUCE 
THIS  BOOK  OR  PARTS  THEREOF  IN  ANY  FORM 


CAMBRIDGE  .  MASSACHUSETTS 
PRINTED  IN  THE  U.S.A. 


PREFACE 


AS  THE  perspective  broadens  on  the  picture  of  the  American  scene,  past 
and  present,  being  portrayed  by  the  Federal  Writers'  Project  of  the 
Works  Progress  Administration  in  the  American  Guide  Series,  the  State 
by  State  development  of  this  vast  panorama  now  brings  into  focus  the 
Nation's  northeast  corner.  How  strong  a  light  Maine's  contribution  can 
stand  depends  to  a  great  extent  upon  one's  point  of  view. 

Whatever  the  point  of  view,  it  should  be  remembered  that  the  presenta- 
tion of  the  many  diverse  elements  embodied  in  a  State  the  size  of  Maine 
in  a  single  volume  is  necessarily  of  a  general  nature,  under  the  rather 
rigid  requirements  of  a  guidebook;  therefore  certain  phases  may  not 
seem  to  be  treated  in  this  book  as  thoroughly  as  they  merit.  An  attempt 
has  been  made,  however,  to  capture  the  spirit  of  Maine  life  and  to  high- 
light the  Maine  scene  for  the  visitor,  without  being  either  romantic  or 
encyclopedic. 

The  Maine  staff  of  the  Writers'  Project,  like  those  of  other  States,  has 
had  its  own  particular  trials  and  tribulations  in  preparing  a  Guide.  In 
presenting  facts  about  Maine,  the  staff's  supreme  effort  at  accuracy  often 
bogged  down  before  several  accepted  authorities  who  were  at  variance 
on  a  given  point.  Items  accepted  as  fact  were  occasionally  found  to  be 
legendary.  A  single  word  at  any  moment  might  creep  up  and  baffle  the 
most  intrepid  research  worker.  Verification  and  re-verification  through 
the  turbulent  days  of  production  had  members  of  the  personnel  in  various 
emotional  states,  from  rank  pessimism  to  apoplectic  rage,  with  the  State 
Director  prepared  momentarily  to  emulate  Rumpelstiltskm  of  the  folk 
tale. 

Now,  as  the  tumult  and  the  shouting  die,  the  things  that  stand  out  are 
the  united  elements  that  brought  the  book  to  completion.  Among  these 
were  steadfast  sincerity  of  purpose  and  seriousness  of  effort  on  the  part 
of  staff  members,  which  elements  stood  by  and  overcame  many  seemingly 
insurmountable  difficulties.  Perhaps  most  important  of  all  was  the  in- 
terest and  sympathy,  within  and  without  the  State,  of  persons  who  gave 
invaluable  aid  to  the  Project  in  many  ways.  Our  gratitude  and  apprecia- 
tion of  their  kindness  are  only  exceeded  by  the  regret  that  space  forbids 
personal  acknowledgment  in  every  instance  here. 


viii  Preface 


Of  the  many  persons,  including  officials  of  various  public  and  private 
institutions,  who  have  given  valuable  assistance,  a  word  of  especial  ap- 
preciation is  due  to  Albert  A.  Abrahamson,  associate  professor  of  Econom- 
ics at  Bowdoin  College,  whose  sympathetic  support  while  he  was 
Maine  Works  Progress  Administrator  was  a  source  of  continual  en- 
couragement. Henry  E.  Dunnack  and  Mrs.  Marion  C.  Fuller  of  the 
State  Library,  the  librarian  of  the  Portland  Library,  and  the  director 
of  the  Maine  Historical  Society  at  Portland  were  especially  helpful  in 
matters  of  reference  and  in  giving  the  Writers'  Project  access  to  their 
collections.  Josiah  T.  Tubby  aided  materially  in  connection  with  the 
architectural  detail.  The  Gannett  Publishing  Company  and  the  Maine 
Development  Commission  supplied  many  of  the  photographs  used  as 
illustrative  material.  The  wholehearted  co-operation  of  Everett  F. 
Greaton,  executive  secretary  of  the  Development  Commission,  has  been 
a  major  factor  in  the  entire  production  of  the  Guide. 

Thanks  are  also  due  the  following  for  expert  advice  and  assistance  in 
their  special  fields:  H.  L.  Baldwin,  of  the  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad; 
Alexander  M.  Bower,  Director  of  the  L.  D.  M.  Sweat  Museum,  Portland; 
Philip  J.  Brockway,  Placement  Director  at  the  University  of  Maine; 
Freeman  F.  Burr,  State  Geologist;  Judge  Benjamin  F.  Cleaves,  Secretary 
of  Associated  Industry;  Harry  B.  Coe,  of  the  Maine  Publicity  Bureau; 
Cressey  and  Allen  Music  Company,  Portland;  William  S.  Crowell, 
Maine  W.P.A.  Director  of  the  Division  of  Operations,  Portland;  Mrs. 
Fanny  Hardy  Eckstorm,  Brewer;  Judge  Edward  K.  Gould,  State  Histo- 
rian; Professor  Orren  C.  Honnell,  of  Bowdoin  College;  Captain  Alfred 
E.  Mulliken,  of  the  State  Planning  Board;  Dorothy  Hay,  of  the  Maine 
W.P.A.  Art  Project;  Arthur  H.  Norton,  Curator  of  the  Portland  Society 
of  Natural  History;  Colonel  Henry  W.  Owen,  Bath;  the  late  Professor 
Edward  H.  Perkins,  of  Colby  College;  John  Calvin  Stevens,  Portland; 
George  J.  Stobie,  State  Fish  and  Game  Commissioner;  Professor  William 
J.  Wilkinson,  of  Colby  College. 

This  volume  was  prepared  under  the  supervision  of  Joseph  Gaer, 
Editor-in-Chief  of  the  New  England  Guides  and  Chief  Field  Supervisor 
of  the  Federal  Writers'  Project. 

DORRIS  A.  WESTALL,  State  Director 


CONTENTS 


PREFACE  vii 
By  State  Director,  Federal  Writers'  Project 

ON  USING  THE  GUIDE  xix 

GENERAL  INFORMATION  xxi 

CALENDAR  OF  EVENTS  xxv 


i.  MAINE:  THE  GENERAL  BACKGROUND 

THE  NATION'S  NORTHEAST  CORNER  3 

State  Name  Soil 

Geography  and  Water  Resources 

Topography  Mineral  Resources 

Climate  Flora 

Geology  Fauna 

EARLIEST  INHABITANTS:  THE  RED  PAINT  PEOPLE  20 

THE  ABNAKI  INDIANS  24 

HISTORY  28 

The  State  Government  48 

PINE,  PAPER,  AND  POWER  50 

THE  MAINE  FARM  63 

FROM  WATERWAYS  TO  AIRWAYS  68 

RACIAL  ELEMENTS  74 

FOLKLORE  AND  FOLKWAYS  76 

EDUCATION  AND  RELIGION  80 

ARCHITECTURE  86 

THE  ARTS  94 

HANDICRAFTS  108 


Contents 


II.    SEAPORTS  AND  RIVER  TOWNS 

(City  and  Town  Descriptions  and  City  Tours) 

Augusta  117 

Bangor  129 

Brunswick  139 

Houlton  149 

Lewiston- Auburn  155 

Portland  163 

Waterville  190 


III.    HIGH  ROADS  AND  LOW  ROADS  (TOURS) 

(Mile-by-Mile  Description  of  the  State's  Highways) 

TOUR    i       From    New    Hampshire    Line    (Portsmouth)    to 

Canadian  Line  (Clair,  N.B.).  US  1  201 

Sec.  a.  Portsmouth  to  Brunswick  204 

Sec.  b.  Brunswick  to  Belfast  215 

Sec.  c.  Belfast  to  Ellsworth  226 

Sec.  d.  Ellsworth  to  Calais  230 

Sec.  e.  Calais  to  Fort  Kent  240 

lA   From  Junction  with  US  1  (Kittery)  to  Cape  Ned- 
dick.  Unnumbered  road  and  State  1A  249 

iB    From  Junction  with  US  1  (Wells)  to  Biddeford. 
State  9  253 

iC  From  Saco  to  Dunstan.  State  9  255 

iD  From  Brunswick  to  Bailey  Island.  State  24  257 

lE  From  Bath  to  Fort  Popham.  State  209  259 

iF  From  Woolwich  to  Five  Islands.  State  127  261 

iG  From  Junction  with  US  1  (Wiscasset)  to  Southport. 
Local  road  and  State  27  264 

iH  From  Damariscotta  to  Pemaquid  Point.  State  129 
and  State  130  267 


Contents  xi 


ij    From  Junction  with  US  1  (Thomaston)  to  Port 
Clyde.  State  131  271 

iK  From  Stockton  Springs  to  Ellsworth.  State  3  273 

iL    From  Junction  with  US  1  (West  Gouldsboro)  to 
Junction  with  US  1  (Gouldsboro).   State  186  275 

iM  From  Whiting  to  Lubec  (Treat's  and  Campobello 
Islands).   State  189  276 

iN  From  Perry  to  Eastport.  State  190  278 

2  Mount  Desert  Island :  From  Ellsworth  to  Tremont. 
State  3,  State  198,  and  State  102  281 

3  From  Ellsworth  to  Orland.  State  15  and  State  175  286 

4  From  Houlton   to  New  Hampshire  Line   (Shel- 
burne).  US  2  292 

4A   From  Junction  with  US  2  (Rumford  Center)  to 

South  Arm.   State  5  303 

5  From  Brewer  to  Junction  with  US   1    (Calais). 
State  9,  The  Air  Line  304 

6  From  Fort  Kent  to  Mattawamkeag.  State  11          308 

7  From  Medway  to  Greenville.     State  157  and  un- 
numbered road  311 

8  From  West  Enfield  to  Bingham.    State  11,  State 
155,  and  State  16  315 

8 A   From  Milo  to  Katahdin  Iron  Works.  State  221  and 

unnumbered  road  319 

9  From  Waterville  to  Canadian  Line  (St.  Zacharie, 
P.Q.).  State  11,  State  7,  and  State  15  320 

10  From  Brunswick  to  Canadian  Line  (Quebec,  P.Q.). 

US  201  325 

11  From  New  Hampshire  Line  (Dover)  to  Canadian 
Boundary  (Quebec,  P.Q.).  State  4  336 

1 1 A   From  Rangeley  to  Haines  Landing.   State  16  348 

12  From  Wiscasset  to  Stratton.  State  27  349 

13  From  Hampden   to  Naples.    US  202   (State  9, 
State  3)  and  State  11  353 

14  From  Portland  to  New  Hampshire  Line  (Errol). 
State  26  360 

15  From  Saco  to  Bethel.  State  5  366 

16  From  Belfast  to  South  China.  State  3  371 


xii  Contents 


17  From  Augusta  to  Rockland.  State  17  372 

1 8  From  Portland  to  New  Hampshire  Line  (Center 
Conway).  US  302,  The  Roosevelt  Trail  375 

1 9  From  Portland  to  New  Hampshire  Line  (Freedom) . 
State  25  382 

ISLAND  TOURS 

1  Portland  to  the  Islands  of  Casco  Bay  386 

A.  To  Orr's  Island  387 

B.  To  Gurnet  392 

C.  To  Birch  Island  392 

2  Boothbay  Harbor  to  Squirrel  Island  395 

3  Boothbay  Harbor  to  Monhegan  Island  396 

4  Rockland  to  Vinalhaven  Island  398 

5  Rockland  to  Swan  Island  399 

6  Belfast  to  Islesboro  Island  401 


IV.    SPORTS  AND  RECREATION 

INTRODUCTION  405 

FISHING  IN  INLAND  WATERS  407 

Denny s  River  Fishing  Trip  410 

Moosehead  Lake  Fishing  Trip  411 

SALT-WATER  FISHING  412 

Tuna  Fishing  off  Ogunquit  413 

HUNTING  414 

Animals  414 

Birds  416 

Game  Areas  417 

CANOEING  418 

Allagash  River  Canoe  Trip  419 

East  Branch  Canoe  Trip  422 

Dead  River  and  Moosehead  Waters  Canoe  Trip  424 

Rangeley  Lakes  Canoe  Trip  426 

Other  Selected  Canoe  Trips  426 


Contents  xiii 


HIKING  AND  MOUNTAIN  CLIMBING  427 

Hunt  Trail  429 

Saddleback  Mountain  Trail  430 

Squaw  Mountain  Trail  430 

Mount  Blue  Trail  430 

Other  Selected  Mountain  Trails  431 

RIDING  432 

Saddle  Trip  out  of  Bangor  433 

Saddle  Trip  out  of  Augusta  435 

Other  Selected  Saddle  Trails  436 

YACHTING  437 

WINTER  SPORTS  438 

CHRONOLOGY  443 

SELECTED  READING  LIST  454 

INDEX  459 


ILLUSTRATIONS    AND   MAPS 


GLIMPSES  OF  HISTORY 
'Red  Paint'  (Indian)  vault  at  the 
Forks 

Avanzato 
Fort  McClary,  Kittery  Point 

Avanzato  &°  Hubbard 
Fort  Halifax,  Winslow 

Avanzato  &•  Hubbard 
Old  Oxford  County  Jail,  Paris  Hill 

Avanzato  &*  Hubbard 
Fort  Knox,  Prospect 

Avanzato  &  Hubbard 
Casco  Castle,  Freeport 

Avanzato 


INDUSTRY,  COASTAL  AND  INLAND 


between  20  and  21 

Fort  Edgecomb,  North  Edgecomb 

Avanzato 
Fort  Popham,  Popham  Beach 

Avanzato 

First  pile  bridge  in  North  America, 
Sewall  bridge  at  York 

Maine  Development  Commission 
Old  covered  bridge,  Stillwater 

Avanzato  &•  Hubbard 
Old  powder  house  at  Wiscasset 

Avanzato  6r  Hubbard 


between  50  and  51 


The  Falls,  Veazie 

Avanzato  fir  Hubbard 
Hayfield  near  Palermo 

H.  G.  Hawes 
Air  view  of  the  State  Pier,  Portland 

Portland  Maine  Pub.  Co. 
Shipbuilding,  Thomaston 

Avanzato 
On  the  Portland  waterfront 

Avanzato 
Fish  weirs,  Bucksport 

Avanzato 
Old  hull,  Boothbay  Harbor 

Avanzato 

Grounded  schooners  in  Boothbay 
Harbor 

Avanzato 

OF  ARCHITECTURAL  INTEREST 

From  the  Old  Stone  Jail,  Paris  Hill 

Avanzato  &*  Hubbard 
The  hearth  in  the  Means  House, 
Portland 

Avanzato  &•  Pratt 

Doorway,  Major  Reuben  Colburn 
House,  Pittston 

W.  Lincoln  Highton 
A  farm  cottage  near  Bar  Harbor 

W.  Lincoln  Highton 
Carved  door  case,  Means  House, 
Portland 
Avanzato  6*  Pratt 


Maine    Seaboard    Paper    Company, 
Bucksport 

Avanzato 
Logging 

Maine  Development  Commission 
Large-scale  potato  digging,  Aroostook 
County 

Maine  Development  Commission 
Blueberry  pickers,  Jonesboro 

Avanzato 
Packing  lobster  bait,  Sebasco 

Avanzato  6*  Hubbard 
Lobster  pots 

Maine  Development  Commission 


between  96  and  97 

St.  John's  Church,  Brunswick 

Avanzato 
Nickels-Sortwell  House,  Wiscasset 

W.  Lincoln  Highton 
Ruggles  House,  Columbia  Falls 

Avanzato 
Doorway  of  the  Ruggles  House 

Avanzato 

Stairway  of  the  Black  Mansion,  Ells- 
worth 

Avanzato 
'Wedding  Cake'  House,  Kennebunk 

Avanzato  6*  Pratt 


XVI 


Illustrations  and  Maps 


IN  TOWN  AND  CITY 

Wiscasset  Courthouse 

W.  Lincoln  Highton 
Swans  at  Dealing's  Oaks,  Portland 

Avanzato 

Canal,  Androscoggin  Mills,  Lewis- 
ton 

Avanzato  &•  Hubbard 
Jed  Prouty  Tavern,  Bucksport 

Avanzato  &•  Hubbard 
Androscoggin  River  at  Rumford 

Avanzato 

East    Machias,    1855,    Photograph 
of  painting 

Win/red  C.  Tracy 


between  190  and  191 

Heart  of  Bangor 

Portland  Maine  Pub.  Co. 
Portland  business  area 

Avanzato 
Old  cemetery  at  Waldoboro 

Avanzato 

Blaine  House  (Governor's  Mansion) 
Augusta 

Avanzato 
The  Capitol  at  Augusta 

Avanzato 


CULTURAL  LANDMARKS 
Wadsworth-Longfellow  House, 
Portland 

Portland  Maine  Pub.  Co. 
Longfellow's  birthplace,  Portland 

Avanzato  &•  Hubbard 
L.  D.  M.  Sweat  Museum,  Portland 

Avanzato  &•  Hubbard 
Fryeburg  Academy 

Maxcy 

Administration    Building,    Univer- 
sity of  Maine,  Orono 

Maxcy 

Coburn  Hall,  Colby  College,  Water- 
ville 

Avanzato  &•  Hubbard 
Rear  wing  of  Bowdoin  College  Li- 
brary, Brunswick 
W.  Lincoln  Highton 


between  252  and  253 
Madame  Nordica's  Homestead,  Farm- 
ington 

Avanzato 
Emma  Eames  House,  Bath 

Avanzato  &•  Hubbard 

Quillcote,    home    of    Kate    Douglas 
Wiggin,  Hollis 

Avanzato  &°  Hubbard 
Redington  Museum,  Waterville 

Avanzato  6*  Hubbard 
Home  of  Jacob  Abbott,  Farmington 

Avanzato  &*  Hubbard 

Sarah  Orne  Jewett  Memorial,   Ber- 
wick 
Avanzato 


OLD  HOUSES  AND  OLD  CHURCHES 


between  330  and  331 


Second  Parish  Unitarian   Church, 
Saco 

Avanzato  &•  Pratt 

Congregational     Church,     Kenne- 
bunkport 
Avanzato 

Lady  Pepperell  Mansion  at  Kittery 
Point 

Portland  Maine  Pub.  Co. 
Church  at  Phippsburg 

Avanzato 

Mclntire  Garrison  House,  York 
Avanzato  6*  Hubbard 


Swinging  sign  of  Burnham  Tavern, 
Machias 

Avanzato 
Burnham  Tavern,  Machias 

Avanzato 
Andrew  Homestead,  South  Windham 

Avanzato  6*  Hubbard 

First  Parish  Unitarian  Church,  Kenne- 
bunk 

W.  Lincoln  Highton 
A  white  church  near  Surry 

W.  Lincoln  Highton 
Montpelier,  Thomaston 

W.  Lincoln  Highton 


Illustrations  and  Maps 


xvn 


LANDSCAPE  AND  SEASCAPE 

Screw  Auger  Falls,  Graf  ton 

Maine  Development  Commission 
Tranquillity 

Maine  Development  Commission 
Off  for  a  canoe  trip,  Megunticook 
Lake 

Maine  Development  Commission 
As  shadows  deepen 

Maine  Development  Commission 
Mount  Desert  Island  as  seen  from 
Sullivan 

Avanzato 
Parlin  Pond,  Somerset  County 

Avanzato 


between  392  and  393 

West  Quoddy  Head  Light  at  sunset 

Maxcy 
Thunder  Hole,  Mount  Desert  Island 

W.  Lincoln  Highton 

Bar  Harbor  and  Frenchman's  Bay, 
from  Cadillac  Mountain 

W.  Lincoln  Highton 
Riding  the  tide,  Boothbay  Harbor 

W .  Lincoln  Highton 
Portland  Head  Light 

New  England  Council 
Snow  scene 

Maine  Development  Commission 


VACATIONLAND 

Dreaming  of  a  duck  hunt 

Maine  Development  Commission 
On  the  bank  of  Sourdnahunk 

Maxcy 
Trotting  race  on  the  ice  at  Camden 

Maine  Development  Commission 
Winter  scene,  near  Fryeburg 

Maine  Development  Commission 
Morning    paddle    on    Moosehead, 
Mount  Kineo  in  the  background 

Maine  Development  Commission 
Sails  in  the  sun 

Maine  Development  Commission 


between  422  and  423 
Almost  in  the  net,  Pleasant  River, 
Gray 

Maxcy 
Ice  fishing,  Sebago  Lake 

Avanzato 
Autumn  trail 

Maine  Development  Commission 
Hunting  party  at  camp,  Kokadjo 

Maxcy 
Camp  site  near  Mount  Katahdin 

Maine  Development  Commission 
Popham  Beach 

Avanzato 


MAPS 
Augusta 
Bangor 
Brunswick 
Houlton 

Lewiston  and  Auburn 
Portland 
WaterviUe 

Portland  to  Rockland  Section  of  Maine  Coast 
Key  to  Maine  Tours 


124-125 

I34-I3S 

143 

iS3 

160-161 

174-175 
iQ3 
200 

202-203 


ON    USING    THE    GUIDE 


General  Information  on  the  State  contains  practical  information  for  the 
State  as  a  whole;  the  introduction  to  each  city  and  tour  description  also 
contains  specific  information  of  a  practical  nature. 

The  Essay  Section  of  the  Guide  is  designed  to  give  a  reasonably  com- 
prehensive survey  of  the  State's  natural  setting,  history,  and  social, 
economic,  and  cultural  development.  Limitations  of  space  forbid  elab- 
orately detailed  treatments  of  these  subjects,  but  a  classified  bibliography 
is  included  in  the  book.  A  great  many  persons,  places,  events,  and  so 
forth,  mentioned  in  the  essays  are  treated  at  some  length  in  the  city  and 
tour  descriptions;  these  are  found  by  reference  to  the  index.  'Maine: 
A  Guide  Down  East'  is  not  only  a  practical  travel  book;  it  will  also  serve 
as  a  valuable  reference  work. 

The  nineteen  Tour  Descriptions  are  written,  with  a  few  exceptions,  to 
follow  the  principal  highways  from  south  to  north  or  from  east  to  west. 
This  orientation  will  not,  of  course,  always  coincide  with  the  direction  in 
which  the  tourist  travels  through  the  State.  Since  most  visitors  plan 
their  trips  as  loop  tours,  it  is  clearly  impossible  to  accommodate  a  stand- 
ard pattern  to  individual  desires,  and,  for  the  sake  of  uniformity,  some 
more  or  less  arbitrary  procedure  must  be  adopted.  The  descriptions  are, 
however,  written  and  printed  in  such  a  style  that  they  may  be  followed 
in  the  reverse  direction.  In  many  cases  the  highway  descriptions  are 
useful  to  travelers  on  railroads.  For  such  travelers  the  Transportation 
map  on  the  back  of  the  general  State  map  will  be  convenient. 

As  a  matter  of  convenience,  lengthy  Descriptions  of  Cities  and  Towns 
are  removed  from  the  tour  sections  of  the  book  and  separately  grouped 
in  alphabetical  order.  Maps  indicate  in  numerical  order  the  points  of 
interest  to  be  visited. 

Each  tour  description  contains  cross-references  to  other  tours  crossing 
or  branching  from  the  route  described;  cross-references  to  all  descriptions 
of  cities  and  towns  given  special  treatment;  and  cross-references  to  re- 
creational activities  and  island  trips. 

Readers  can  find  the  descriptions  of  important  routes  by  examining 
Index  to  Tours  or  the  tour  key  map.  As  far  as  possible,  each  tour  de- 
scription follows  a  single  main  route;  descriptions  of  minor  routes  branch- 


xx  On  Using  the  Guide 


ing  from,  or  crossing,  the  main  routes  are  in  smaller  type.  The  long  route 
descriptions  are  divided  into  sections  at  important  junctions. 

Cumulative  mileage  is  used  on  main  and  side  tours,  the  mileage  being 
counted  from  the  beginning  of  each  section  or,  on  side  tours,  from  the 
junction  with  the  main  route.  The  mileage  notations  are  at  best  relative, 
since  totals  depend  to  some  extent  on  the  manner  in  which  cars  are 
driven  —  whether  they  cut  around  other  cars,  round  curves  on  the  inside 
or  outside  of  the  road,  and  so  forth.  Then,  too,  the  totals  will  in  the  future 
vary  from  those  in  this  book  because  of  road-building  in  which  curves 
will  be  eliminated  and  routes  will  be  carried  around  cities  and  villages 
formerly  on  the  routes. 

Inter-State  routes  are  described  from  and  to  the  State  Lines;  in  the 
Index  to  Tours  and  in  the  tour  headings  the  names  of  the  nearest  out-of- 
State  cities  of  importance  on  the  routes  are  listed  in  parentheses  to  enable 
travelers  readily  to  identify  the  routes. 

Descriptions  of  points  of  interest  in  the  larger  towns  and  cities  are 
numbered  and  arranged  in  the  order  in  which  they  can  conveniently  be 
visited. 

Points  of  interest  in  cities,  towns,  and  villages  have  been  indexed 
separately  rather  than  under  the  names  of  such  communities,  because 
many  persons  know  the  name  of  a  point  of  interest,  but  are  doubtful  as 
to  the  name  of  the  community  in  which  it  is  situated. 

The  Sports  and  Recreation  Section  of  the  Guide  gives  brief  topical 
descriptions  of  the  major  recreational  activities  to  be  found  in  Maine. 
Two  or  more  detailed  trips  are  given  under  each  topic,  supplemented 
by  a  selected  list.  Condensed  as  it  is,  this  section  is  a  handy  reference  for 
those  interested  in  the  types  of  sports  this  State  has  to  offer.  A  special 
Recreation  map  locates  the  activities  treated  in  this  section. 

The  Island  Tours  give  the  most  convenient  points  of  departure  for  a 
sail  with  stops  among  a  number  of  the  coastal  islands. 


GENERAL    INFORMATION 


Railroads.  Interstate:  Boston  &  Maine  (B.  &  M.),  Maine  Central,  Bangor 
&  Aroostook  (B.&A.),  Canadian  Pacific,  Canadian  National  Rys.  (Grand 
Trunk).  Intrastate:  Belfast  &  Moosehead  Lake,  Bridgton  &  Harrison. 

Highways.  128  State  highways.  Four  Federal  highways  as  follows:  US  1, 
Fort  Kent  to  Florida;  US  2,  Woodstock,  N.B.,  via  Houlton;  US  201, 
Quebec,  Canada;  US  202,  Wilmington,  Del.;  US  302,  Montpelier,  Vt.,  via 
Conway,  N.H.  (See  folding  map.)  State  police  patrol  the  highways. 

Bus  Lines.  Intrastate:  218  lines  connecting  all  principal  cities  and  towns. 
Interstate:  Boston  &  Maine  Transportation  Co.  (Portland  and  Boston), 
Liberty  Motor  Tours,  Inc.  (Portland  and  Boston),  Eastern  Greyhound 
Lines,  Inc.,  of  New  England  (Portland  and  Boston,  Portland  and  St. 
John,  and  St.  Stephen,  N.B.,  via  Lewiston  and  Bangor),  Maine  &  New 
Hampshire  Stages  (Portland  and  Berlin,  N.H.,  via  Lewiston  and  Rum- 
ford),  Checker  Cab  Co.  (Portland  and  Manchester,  N.H.,  via  Ports- 
mouth, N.H.,  and  Lawrence  and  Haverhill,  Mass.),  Vermont  Transit 
(Portland  and  Montreal,  via  Fryeburg),  Coast  to  Coast  Stages  (Grey- 
hound Lines,  national  coverage). 

Air  Lines.  Interstate  and  intrastate:  Boston  &  Maine  Airways,  Inc. 
(airports  at  Bangor,  Waterville,  Augusta,  Portland,  and  Boston);  sum- 
mer service  between  Bangor  and  Bar  Harbor.  Portland  Municipal  Air- 
port for  Portland  Flying  Service,  charter  service  to  all  points  in  Maine 
and  scheduled  summer  service  between  Rangeley  Lakes  and  Portland. 
Northeast  Airways,  charter  service  and  flying  school. 

Waterways.  No  regular  interstate  passenger  service.  Intrastate  steamer 
and  motorboat  service;  inquire  at  coastal  points.  Boat  service  also 
available  on  the  larger  lakes  in  the  State. 

Traffic  Regulations.  All  passenger  vehicles  owned  by  non-residents  and 
properly  registered  in  their  home  States  may  be  operated  on  a  reciprocal 
basis  for  an  unlimited  period  on  the  highways  of  the  State. 

Speed:  On  State  highways  motorists  are  required  to  drive  at  a  careful 
and  prudent  speed,  not  to  exceed  25  miles  per  hour  in  residential  or 
built-up  sections  or  15  miles  per  hour  when  approaching  within 
50  feet  and  when  crossing  an  intersection  of  ways,  when  the  driver's 
view  is  obstructed,  and  when  passing  a  school  during  school  recess 
or  at  opening  and  closing  hours.  Speed  limit  varies  in  different  cities 
and  towns. 

Lights:  Every  vehicle,  whether  stationary  or  in  motion,  must  have 
a  light  attached  to  be  visible  from  front  and  rear,  and  every  vehicle 


xxii  General  Information 


having  objects  which  project  more  than  5  feet  from  the  rear  must 
have  a  light  on  the  rear  of  such  objects. 

Accidents:  Every  person  operating  a  motor  vehicle  in  any  manner 
involved  in  an  accident  in  which  a  person  is  killed  or  injured,  or  in 
which  it  appears  that  $50  or  more  property  damage  has  been  done, 
must  report  to  local  police  and  the  Secretary  of  State. 

Accommodations.  The  State  is  adequately  provided  with  year-round 
hotels  in  larger  communities  and  summer  hotels  at  resorts;  numerous 
tourist  homes  and  overnight  cabins  and  a  few  trailer  camps  along  the 
main  highways;  sporting  camps  at  lakes.  Infrequent  gas  stations  and 
accommodations  in  delimited  areas  only. 

Climate.  Variable,  with  temperatures  ranging  from  the  nineties  in  summer 
to  below  zero  in  winter.  Cool  evenings  may  be  expected  in  summer, 
particularly  along  the  coast.  Clothing  should  be  provided  according  to 
season. 

Recreational  Areas.  All  forms  of  outdoor  sport  are  found  in  Maine's 
widely  diversified  recreational  areas  (see  Sports  and  Recreation),  with 
accommodations  as  a  whole  good  throughout  the  State. 

Amateur  sports  enthusiasts  should  inquire  as  to  conditions  and  facilities 
as  well  as  local  laws,  if  any,  for  their  particular  sport  in  a  specific  locality. 

For  sea  bathing,  cove  and  inlet  waters  are  comfortable,  exposed  points 
cold.  Life  guards  posted  and  warning  signs  set  where  there  is  dangerous 
undertow.  Fresh  waters  inland  always  warmer. 

Occasional  interstate  and  intrastate  'snow  trains'  operate  during  the 
winter  to  sports  resorts,  destinations  depending  upon  snow  and  ice  condi- 
tions in  various  sections. 

Hunting  and  Fishing.  Opportunities  abound  in  most  sections  of  the 
State.  License  required  for  hunting  and  for  fishing  inland  waters.  Fish- 
ing: non-resident,  3  days  $1.65,  30  days  $3.15,  season  $5.15;  resident, 
season  $1.15.  Hunting:  non-resident,  season,  small  game  $5.15,  big 
game  $15.15;  resident,  season  $1.15,  combination  hunting  and  fishing 
$2.15.  No  license  required  for  salt-water  fishing;  boats  and  equipment 
available  at  most  coastal  resorts.  (For  detailed  information  consult 
Maine  State  Fish  and  Game  Commission  or  local  game  warden.) 

Fires:  The  forest  fire  hazard  in  Maine  cannot  be  too  strongly  emphasized, 
since  nearly  three-fourths  of  the  State's  entire  area,  or  15,000,000  acres, 
is  woodland.  The  State  law  on  this  subject  is  as  follows:  'Non-residents 
shall  not  kindle  fires  upon  any  unorganized  township,  while  engaged  in 
camping,  fishing,  or  hunting  from  May  first  to  December  first,  without 
being  in  charge  of  a  registered  guide,  except  at  public  camp  sites  main- 
tained by  the  forestry  department.  No  person  shall  kindle  a  fire  on  private 
property  within  a  township  without  the  consent  of  the  owner.  No  person 
shall  within  a  municipality  or  township  set  a  bonfire  or  any  kind  of  a  fire 
which  is  not  enclosed  with  a  metal  or  a  non-inflammable  material  without 
a  written  consent  of  the  fire  department.' 


General  Information  xxiii 


Wild  Animals,  Poisonous  Plants.  The  only  dangerous  animals  found  in 
Maine  are  bears,  bobcats,  moose,  and  occasionally  lynxes  and  wolves, 
which  appear  only  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State  in  thickly  wooded 
areas;  they  seldom  attack  unless  they  are  wounded  or  cornered.  Poison- 
ivy  grows  near  stone  walls,  in  pasture  and  woodland,  and  occasionally 
along  the  seashore. 

Information  Bureaus.  The  Maine  Publicity  Bureau,  Danforth  and  St. 
John  Sts.,  Portland,  and  branch  offices  at  York  Corner,  Bangor  House  in 
Bangor,  Fryeburg,  and  Damariscotta;  the  Maine  Development  Commis- 
sion, State  House,  Augusta,  which  is  establishing  (1937)  other  informa- 
tion service  units  in  various  recreational  centers  in  the  State.  Railroad 
stations  and  hotels  are  equipped  to  give  information  on  travel,  resorts, 
accommodations,  recreational  opportunities,  and  road  conditions. 


CALENDAR    OF    EVENTS 


ANNUAL 

Jan. 

nfd* 

Fryeburg 

Winter  Sports  Carnival. 

Jan. 

nfd 

Portland 

Portland    Automobile    Exhibit     (6 

days). 

Feb. 

ist  wk 

Fort  Fairfield 

Winter  Carnival  (3  days). 

Feb. 

nfd 

Rumford 

Rumford  Winter  Carnival. 

Feb. 

nfd 

Camden 

Camden  Winter  Carnival. 

Feb. 

nfd 

Bangor 

Bangor-Caribou  Ski  Race. 

March 

ist  wk 

Presque  Isle 

Winter    Carnival    and    Sportsmen's 

Show  (5  days). 

April 

iQ 

Brunswick 

Maine  Open  Handicap  Golf  Tourna- 

ment. 

May 

nfd 

East  Eddington        Bird-Dog  Field  Trials. 

May 

nfd 

variable: 

State  Intercollegiate  Track  Meet. 

Brunswick, 

Lewiston, 

Waterville,  or 

Orono 

June 

ist  Sun. 

f  French  ville 

1st.  Agatha 
|  Van  Buren 

Corpus  Christi  Procession. 

1  Fort  Kent  . 

June 

ist  part 

Augusta 

Boy  Scout  Camporee. 

June 

nfd 

Old  Orchard 

Grand  Circuit  Horse  Races  (several 

days). 

July 

30-31 

South  Berwick         Dramatization     of     Gladys    Hasty 

Carroll's  'As  the  Earth  Turns.' 

July 

last  half 

variable 

Maine  Resident  Amateur  Golf  Cham- 

pionship. 

July 

nfd 

Boothbay  Harbor    Yacht  Regatta. 

July 
July 

nfd 
nfd  odd 

variable 
Portland 

State  Championship  Trap  Shoot. 
Portland-Halifax  Yacht  Race. 

years 

July 

nfd 

Chebeague  Island    Casco  Bay  Regatta. 

July 

nfd 

Kennebunkport       Yacht  Regatta. 

Aug. 

ist  part 

variable 

Maine  Summer  Visitors*  Day. 

Aug. 

latter  part 

Buxton 

Dramatization    of    Kate     Douglas 

Wiggin's  'Old  Peabody  Pew.' 

Aug. 

latter  part 

Portland 

Portland-Monhegan    Island    Yacht 

Race. 

Aug. 

latter  part 

variable 

Maine  Open  Amateur  Golf  Cham- 

pionship. 

*no  fixed  date. 

XXVI 


Calendar  of  Events 


Aug.    latter  part 

Etna 

Spiritualist  Camp  Meeting. 

Aug.    nfd 

variable 

State  of  Maine  Tennis   Champion- 

ship. 

Aug.    nfd 

Bar  Harbor 

Maritime  Tennis  Tournament. 

Aug.    nfd 

Bar  Harbor 

Floral  Exhibit. 

Aug.    nfd 

Wiscasset 

Open  House  Day. 

Aug.    nfd 

Old  Orchard 

Horse  Racing  (several  days). 

Aug.    nfd 

variable 

State  Championship  Skeet  Shoot. 

Aug.    nfd 

variable 

Three-Quarter  Century  Club. 

Sept.     i 

Lewiston 

Maine  State  Fair  (6  days). 

Sept.    nfd 

Damariscotta 

Bird-Dog  Field  Trials. 

Oct.     nfd 

Portland 

Maine  State  Dog  Show. 

Nov.    nfd 

variable 

Maine  Pomological  Seed  Exhibit  and 

Flower  Show. 

Nov.    nfd 

Portland 

Maine  Poultry  Show. 

Spring 

Yarmouth 

Summer 

r  j 

Bridgton 

Fall 

nfd 

Waterville 

Coon  Hound  Field  Trials. 

months    , 

Winthrop 

I  Bowdoinham 

i.    MAINE:    THE 

GENERAL      BACKGROUND 


THE      NATION     S      NORTHEAST 
CORNER 


STATE  NAME 

THE  name  of  Maine,  it  is  supposed  by  some  historians,  was  bestowed  as 
a  tribute  to  England's  Queen  Henrietta  Marie,  feudal  ruler  of  the  French 
province  of  Meyne  or  Maine;  some  think  the  name  was  brought  directly 
from  France  by  early  French  colonists;  others  hold  that  it  was  a  term  used 
to  distinguish  the  mainland  from  the  coastal  islands  on  which  early  fisher- 
men dried  their  catch.  The  'mainland'  theory  seems  especially  apt  in 
view  of  the  facts  that  the  serrated  coastline  of  the  State  measures  some 
2500  miles,  and  that  there  are  more  than  400  offshore  islands,  ranging  hi 
area  from  noo  to  16,000  acres,  with  a  host  of  lesser  ones.  Islanders  to 
this  day  speak  of  l  the  main.'  Variously  spelled  Main,  Mayn,  and  Mayne, 
the  name  was  in  use  as  early  as  1622.  Under  the  jurisdiction  of  Massa- 
chusetts, the  region  was  known  as  'The  Province  of  Maine';  and  when  it 
was  admitted  to  the  Union  in  1820,  'The  State  of  Maine'  became  its  of- 
ficial title.  The  inclusion  of  the  word  '  State '  was  probably  inspired  by  the 
resounding  title  of  the  mother  State,  'The  Commonwealth  of  Massa- 
chusetts.' 


GEOGRAPHY  AND  TOPOGRAPHY 

Maine,  the  extreme  northeastern  State  in  the  Union,  is  the  only  one  ad- 
joined by  but  a  single  sister  State.  Its  comparatively  isolated  position 
may  be  accountable  for  an  aloofness  sometimes  said  to  be  characteristic 
of  its  people.  The  southern  boundary  of  the  State  is  the  Atlantic  Ocean; 
the  eastern  boundary  follows  the  St.  Croix  River  to  its  source,  thence  due 
north  to  the  St.  John  River;  the  northern  boundary  extends  roughly 
from  the  St.  John  Grand  Falls  along  the  river  to  Crown  Monument;  the 
western  boundary  extends  from  Crown  Monument  to  the  sea  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Piscataqua  River  near  Kittery  Point.  The  State  is  thus 


Maine :  The  General  Background 


bordered  only  by  the  ocean,  by  Canada,  and  by  New  Hampshire.  Early 
charters  denned  none  but  the  northern  and  southern  boundaries,  so  that 
Maine  once  theoretically  extended,  like  other  eastern  colonies,  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  Many  bitter  quarrels  arose  before  the  boundaries  were 
established  by  the  Webster- Ashburton  Treaty  in  1842,  when  all  disputed 
territory  on  the  Maine  border  was  granted  to  England  in  return  for  con- 
cessions in  other  matters. 

Maine  is  much  the  largest  of  the  New  England  States,  its  total  area 
greatly  exceeding  that  of  New  Hampshire,  Vermont,  Rhode  Island,  and 
Connecticut  combined.  Approximately  one- tenth  of  its  area  of  33,040 
square  miles  consists  of  water.  Large  sections  of  the  State  are  still  un- 
populated and  have  been  only  partially  explored. 

The  terrain  might  be  best  described  as  a  broad  plateau  running  from 
the  western  boundary  to  the  northeast  across  the  Rangeley  and  Moose- 
head  Lake  districts,  gradually  sloping  eastward  toward  the  Penobscot 
River  Basin  and,  northward  to  the  St.  John.  Toward  the  southeast,  the 
plateau  gradually  inclines  to  sea  level.  Occasional  mountains  rise  from 
the  plateau  to  relatively  high  elevations,  particularly  in  the  central  and 
western  parts  of  the  State.  Spread  over  the  land  surface  is  a  remarkable 
system  of  eskers  or  kames,  known  variously  as  l horse-backs'  or  'hog- 
backs.' These  are  long  ridges  of  gravel  deposited  by  the  receding  glacier 
of  the  Ice  Age,  extending  from  one  mile  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in 
length.  From  these  deposits  come  most  of  the  State's  road  material,  and 
in  many  cases  the  roads  follow  their  course. 

Contrary  to  popular  impression  in  other  sections  of  the  country,  Maine 
is  a  mountainous  State.  Cadillac  Mountain,  with  an  almost  sheer  rise  of 
1532  feet,  has  the  highest  elevation  of  any  point  on  the  Atlantic  coast 
north  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  in  Brazil.  Mount  Katahdin,  5267  feet,  is  Maine's 
highest  peak;  from  its  base  on  the  shores  of  the  Penobscot,  about  800  feet 
above  sea  level,  it  appears  to  be  as  high  as  some  of  the  Rockies,  which  rise 
from  a  plateau  5000  to  7000  feet  above  sea  level.  According  to  Maine 
State  Planning  Board  figures,  Hamlin  Peak  on  Katahdin,  4751  feet,  is  the 
second  highest  mountain;  'Old  Spec'  in  Graf  ton  Township,  4250  feet,  and 
Sugarloaf  in  Crockertown,  4237  feet,  are  the  third  and  fourth  highest 
respectively;  and  there  are  five  other  mountains  in  the  State  more  than 
4000  feet  and  97  more  than  3000  feet  in  height.  Most  of  these  are  more  or 
less  conical  in  form,  their  sloping  sides  being  heavily  wooded  and  always 
green.  Outstanding  mountains  are  Bigelow,  Saddleback,  Abraham, 
Russell,  Haystack,  and  Whitecap  (in  Franklin  County).  Often,  as  in  the 
case  of  Mount  Kineo,  the  best  known  are  not  the  highest  mountains. 


The  Nation's  Northeast  Corner 


Maine  has  well  over  2200  lakes  and  ponds.  Moosehead  Lake,  about 
forty  miles  long  and  from  two  to  ten  miles  wide,  is  one  of  the  country's 
largest  bodies  of  fresh  water  lying  wholly  within  the  boundaries  of  a  single 
State.  More  than  5100  rivers  and  streams  appear  on  the  State  map;  of 
these,  four  are  navigable  for  considerable  distances  into  the  interior. 
Augusta,  on  the  Kennebec,  and  Bangor,  on  the  Penobscot,  are  accessible 
to  seagoing  vessels.  Only  six  of  Maine's  sixteen  counties  are  not  open  to 
water  traffic.  The  longest  rivers  are  the  St.  John,  211  miles  from  its 
source  in  St.  John  Pond  to  the  point  where  it  leaves  the  Maine  boundary; 
the  St.  Croix,  75  miles;  the  Penobscot,  350  miles;  the  Kennebec,  150  miles; 
the  Androscoggin,  175  miles;  and  the  Saco,  104  miles.  The  streams  of 
Maine,  marked  by  narrow  and  rapid  currents,  and  fed  by  springs  and  the 
melting  snows  of  the  forest  regions,  are  perhaps  the  most  important 
natural  resource  of  the  State. 


CLIMATE 

Maine's  climate  is  invigorating  and  healthful.  The  mean  annual 
temperature  is  44°  or  45°  F.  in  the  southern  part  and  39°  in  the  extreme 
northern  part  of  the  State.  The  summer  heat  is  less  than  that  of  Massa- 
chusetts, New  York,  Wisconsin,  Iowa,  and  the  Dakotas  by  about  32  per 
cent;  and  the  Maine  winter,  proverbial  for  harshness,  is  actually  not  so 
severe  as  that  experienced  in  many  places  of  corresponding  latitude. 
The  lowest  temperatures  on  record  range  from  about  —  16°  on  the  coast 
to  —  36°  at  Greenville  in  the  Moosehead  region.  The  longest  periods  of 
extreme  cold  occur  near  Van  Buren,  where  freezing  temperature  is  re- 
corded on  an  average  of  208  days  a  year;  whereas  at  Portland,  the  average 
is  only  132  days  a  year.  Freezing  temperatures  at  night  are  common 
throughout  the  State  in  October  and  November,  continuing  to  mid-April 
or  early  May.  The  average  temperature  from  June  to  October  is  60°  or 
higher  hi  most  parts  of  the  State.  July,  the  warmest  month,  has  an 
average  temperature  ranging  from  60°  at  Eastport  to  69°  in  the  interior. 
Daily  maximum  temperatures  run  as  high  as  80°  in  central  sections.  The 
highest  recorded  temperature,  105°,  occurred  at  Bridgton  in  July,  1911. 
On  the  coast,  and  during  the  summer  in  particular,  the  temperature  is 
modified  considerably  by  the  sea  winds.  An  Arctic  current  surging  in 
from  the  east,  sometimes  bearing  icebergs,  prevents  the  climate  of  this 
region  from  being  ameliorated  by  the  Gulf  Stream. 


6  Maine:  The  General  Background 

Days  of  sunshine  in  Maine  average  close  to  sixty  per  cent  for  the  year, 
and  monthly  averages  vary  little  during  the  change  of  seasons,  though 
frequently  the  winter  has  more  sunny  days  than  the  summer.  Fog  is 
common  on  the  coast  during  the  summer,  especially  in  July  and  August, 
but  dense  night  fogs  usually  burn  off  during  the  day. 

Maine's  growing  season  ranges  from  about  150  to  170  days  along  the 
coast,  while  thirty  miles  inland  it  is  about  thirty  days  shorter.  The  short- 
est season  is  found  near  Farming  ton,  where  the  average  is  only  103  days. 

Precipitation  is  well  distributed  over  the  State  throughout  the  year, 
with  a  range  of  from  forty  to  forty-six  inches  annually.  The  average 
annual  snowfall  varies  from  about  seventy  inches  on  the  coast  to  about 
one  hundred  inches  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State.  Near  the  coast  the 
snow  is  often  completely  melted  in  midwinter.  Destructive  storms  are 
rare  in  Maine  —  in  nearly  sixty  years  the  State  has  had  only  six  severe 
blizzards  and  one  hurricane.  There  are  commonly  from  six  to  twelve 
heavy  rainfalls  each  year,  usually  accompanied  by  northeast  winds.  The 
State  is  relatively  free  from  serious  floods  and  droughts;  the  1936  flood 
was  exceptionally  serious. 


GEOLOGY 

The  bed-rock  of  Maine,  with  little  exception,  was  formed  during  the 
Pre-Cambrian  and  Paleozoic  Eras.  The  Pre-Cambrian  rocks  occur 
principally  in  the  western  and  southern  parts  of  the  State,  and  consist  for 
the  most  part  of  sandstones,  shales,  and  limestones  greatly  altered  by 
weathering  and  erosion.  No  fossils  have  been  found  in  them.  Where  they 
were  compacted  to  a  crystalline  rock  by  the  intrusion  of  molten  granite, 
valuable  mineral  deposits  resulted,  particularly  pegmatite,  coarse- 
grained masses  of  feldspar  and  quartz  crystallized  under  special  condi- 
tions. Where  these  deposits  are  quarried  for  feldspar,  many  gems  and 
rare  minerals  are  found.  The  pegmatite  area  extends  northwest  across  the 
State  from  Popham,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec  River,  to  the  wilder- 
ness of  northern  Oxford  County.  Famous  mineral  localities  in  this  belt 
are  Topsham,  Mount  Apatite,  Mount  Mica,  Paris,  Buckfield,  and  Newry. 

In  Maine,  the  Paleozoic  rocks  differ  from  the  Pre-Cambrian  in  being 
less  altered  by  metamorphism  and  in  the  fact  that  they  contain  fossils. 
Covering  the  central  and  northern  parts  of  the  State,  they  represent  most 
>f  the  periods  into  which  the  Paleozoic  era  is  divided.  The  first  of  these 


The  Nation's  Northeast  Corner 


periods,  the  Cambrian,  is  represented  by  beds  of  quartzite  and  slate. 
Cambrian  fossils  have  been  found  only  on  the  east  branch  of  the  Penob- 
scot  River.  Ordovician  beds  have  not  been  clearly  distinguished  from 
earlier  Cambrian  and  the  later  Silurian.  Most  sedimentary  rocks  in  cen- 
tral and  northern  Maine  are  Silurian,  principally  shales,  slates,  and  impure 
limestones.  Silurian  fossils  have  been  found  in  central  Maine,  along  the 
coast  at  Eastport,  and  in  Aroostook.  Good  exposures  of  these  rocks  are 
common  along  the  State  highways  of  central  and  northern  Maine. 

Rock  of  the  Devonian  period  is  represented  by  a  belt  of  sandstone,  the 
Moose  River  formation,  extending  from  west  of  Moosehead  Lake  to 
northern  Aroostook.  This  is  probably  the  most  fossiliferous  formation  in 
the  State,  including  those  glacial  boulders  containing  '  clam  shells '  which 
attract  attention  in  central  and  southern  Maine.  In  the  Devonian  period 
an  earth  movement  took  place  that  resulted  in  the  intrusion  of  great 
bodies  of  granite  called  '  batholiths ' ;  and  most  of  Maine's  granite  seems  to 
have  come  into  position  at  this  tune.  Volcanoes  left  beds  of  lava  and  ash, 
erupting  first  hi  the  Silurian  period.  Deposits  are  found  along  the  coast 
from  Penobscot  Bay  to  Eastport.  Of  these,  Mount  Kineo  is  the  most 
famous;  others  are  East  Kennebago,  Big  and  Little  Spencers,  the  Coburn 
Hills  in  northeastern  Aroostook,  Haystack,  and  the  Quoggy  Joe  Moun- 
tains near  Presque  Isle. 

The  youngest  Paleozoic  rocks  in  Maine  are  the  quartzite  slates  border- 
ing the  coast  from  Kittery  to  Casco  Bay.  The  Paleozoic  Era  ended  in  the 
Appalachian  Revolution,  when  mountains  once  more  rose  across  New 
England. 

The  Mesozoic  Era  is  almost  without  record  in  Maine.  From  studies 
made  elsewhere,  it  is  believed  that  this  part  of  New  England  was  then  an 
upland  undergoing  erosion.  The  Cenozoic  Era  was  also  a  time  of  erosion. 
Weaker  rocks  were  worn  away,  and  the  more  resistant  were  left  standing 
as  mountains  on  a  plain  that  extended  over  the  State.  Later  uplifts  of  the 
land  followed;  hills  and  valleys  were  carved  from  the  plain.  The  even 
skyline  formed  by  the  merging  of  the  hilltops  represents  today  the  level  of 
the  old  plain.  Katahdin,  the  Blue  Mountains  in  the  western  part  of  the 
State,  and  the  Mount  Desert  Mountains  on  the  coast  are  examples  of  the 
more  resistant  rock. 

During  the  Ice  Age  that  ended  the  Cenozoic  Era,  Maine  was  covered  by 
a  continental  glacier  similar  to  those  of  Greenland  and  Antarctica  today. 
Moving  southward,  the  glacier  smoothed  off  the  irregularities  of  the  hills. 
It  left  large  deposits  of  gravel,  sand,  and  clay;  and  these,  damming  the 
pre-glacial  valleys,  brought  about  the  formation  of  lakes  and  waterfalls. 


Maine:  The  General  Background 


Rivers  were  thrown  from  their  former  courses  to  flow  over  bed-rock  ridges 
and  through  narrow  gorges,  creating  today's  resources  of  water-power. 
During  the  thousands  of  years  of  the  Ice  Age,  the  weight  of  the  glacier 
depressed  New  England  below  its  former  level.  As  water  from  the  melting 
ice  poured  into  the  ocean,  the  latter's  level  rose,  and  it  flooded  the  coastal 
lowland  up  into  the  larger  valleys.  The  receding  flood  left  a  layer  of  sand 
over  the  clays  along  the  coast,  creating  sand  plains.  In  some  places, 
notably  Freeport  and  Leeds,  this  sand,  freed  of  vegetation  and  blown  by 
the  wind,  has  formed  so-called  deserts. 

Finally  the  land  rose  to  about  the  present  level  and  the  sea  retreated. 
The  coastline  has  not  receded  to  its  pre-glacial  position;  the  lower  valleys 
are  still  flooded,  and  the  highlands  form  the  projecting  headlands  and 
islands  of  the  present  Maine  coast. 


SOIL 


It  is  believed  that  at  the  time  of  the  first  settlements,  nearly  the  entire 
land  area  of  Maine  was  occupied  by  forests.  More  than  three-fourths  of 
this  area  is  still  tree-covered;  and  of  the  cleared  land,  about  one- third  is 
devoted  to  agricultural  use.  The  number  of  acres  under  cultivation  has 
decreased  considerably  in  the  last  fifty  years,  due  chiefly  to  the  competi- 
tion arising  from  intensive  specialization  on  various  crops  in  other  parts 
of  the  country.  The  soil  types  are  exceedingly  varied,  the  most  produc- 
tive being  the  famous  potato-growing  district  in  Aroostook  County,  one 
of  the  richest  in  the  country. 

Soil  erosion  presents  a  more  serious  problem  than  is  commonly  realized, 
though  the  continuous  vegetative  cover  and  the  rolling  topography 
generally  prevailing  in  most  parts  of  the  State  keep  the  spread  of  barren 
lands  to  a  minimum.  The  most  significant  damage  from  this  cause  may 
be  seen  along  the  sloping  banks  of  the  St.  John  River  and  its  tributaries, 
where  brush  and  grass  were  thoroughly  removed  in  the  cultivation  of  the 
land  and  nothing  was  left  to  prevent  the  top-soil  from  being  washed  from 
the  hillsides  during  heavy  rains.  Much  has  been  done  in  recent  years,  in 
the  way  of  proper  scientific  planting  and  reforestation  in  many  parts  of 
Maine,  toward  controlling  this  problem.  The  same  may  also  be  said  in 
regard  to  the  control  and  eradication  of  insect  pests  and  plant  diseases. 

Despite  adverse  soil  conditions,  the  comparatively  short  growing 


The  Nation's  Northeast  Corner 


period,  and  competition  from  more  productive  areas,  Maine  has  been  in 
the  past  and  continues  to  be  primarily  an  agricultural  State.  Its  temperate 
climate  during  the  growing  season,  with  a  minimum  of  natural  hazards, 
and  its  well-distributed  and  unfailing  rainfall,  offset  some  of  the  disad- 
vantages noted  above. 


WATER  RESOURCES 

Maine's  coast  is  indented  by  many  safe  harbors  and  pierced  by  many 
navigable  rivers  upon  which  the  tidewater  sometimes  reaches  as  far  as 
sixty  miles  inland.  The  water-power  of  the  rivers  is  the  State's  greatest 
natural  resource.  The  rainfall  is  sufficient  to  insure  the  maintenance  of  a 
constant  flow  of  water,  and  the  sources  of  the  rivers  are  high  enough  above 
sea  level  so  that  there  are  many  natural  falls  or  favorable  opportunities  for 
the  development  of  power  plants.  At  the  present  time,  less  than  half  the 
potential  power  of  the  State  has  been  developed.  Conservative  estimates 
put  the  possible  water-power  production  at  i,  200,000  horse-power. 

Approximately  ninety-five  per  cent  of  the  hydro-electric  power  pro- 
duced in  Maine  is  controlled  by  three  companies,  which  by  means  of  inter- 
connecting lines  form  a  super-power  system  nearly  blanketing  the  State. 
Numerous  storage  dams  and  steam  generators  enable  these  companies  to 
supply  a  nearly  constant  output  of  power,  regardless  of  natural  hazards. 
The  greater  part  of  the  industrial  water-power  is  used  by  the  paper  manu- 
facturing companies,  while  several  power  developments  formerly  used  by 
lumber  and  pulp  mills  are  now  idle.  A  comprehensive  program  of  water- 
shed forestation  and  damming  for  flood  control  is  being  carried  on  both  by 
the  State  and  by  private  companies.  There  have  been  created  on  several 
of  the  rivers  in  the  State,  mainly  by  raising  and  controlling  the  flow  from 
several  of  the  larger  lakes,  fifty  reservoirs  with  a  capacity  of  more  than 
two  hundred  billion  cubic  feet.  State  and  Federal  commissions  have  made 
studies  of  the  most  important  rivers  and  lakes  in  regard  to  potential 
power,  drainage,  and  storage. 

A  new  and  unusual  development  of  Maine's  water-power  is  the  pro- 
jected dam  at  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  where  the  presence  of  unique  coastal 
pools  and  a  twenty-foot  average  tidal  fall  make  this  one  of  the  very  few 
sites  in  the  world  that  are  feasible  for  the  development  of  tidal  power. 


io  Maine:  The  General  Background 


MINERAL  RESOURCES 

In  Maine  are  found  ores  of  most  metals,  as  well  as  useful  non-metallic 
minerals  such  as  quartz,  feldspar,  mica,  graphite,  asbestos,  and  gem  stones 
such  as  tourmalines,  beryl,  amethyst,  garnet,  and  topaz.  At  least  one 
mineral,  beryllonite,  has  been  found  nowhere  outside  Maine,  and  this 
State  has  yielded  the  finest  emerald  beryl  ever  found  in  the  United  States. 
In  mineral  production,  Maine  stands  about  midway  among  the  States,  the 
average  annual  yield  being  valued  at  about  $6,000,000.  One-third  of  the 
State  is  still  unexplored  in  respect  to  mineral  resources,  and  only  limited 
areas  have  received  adequate  investigation. 

Granite  has  always  been  one  of  the  State's  important  products.  In 
1934  there  were  as  many  as  ninety  scattered  quarries  —  not  all,  however, 
being  worked  regularly.  Their  products  range  from  rubble,  concrete 
aggregate,  and  paving  stones,  to  great  blocks  from  which  may  be  cut 
monolithic  columns.  Maine  granites  show  great  variation  in  color,  grain, 
and  texture,  and  have  been  used  in  the  construction  of  many  buildings 
and  monuments  throughout  the  country. 

Limestone  deposits  are  found  in  many  parts  of  the  State,  and  are  used 
particularly  in  the  manufacture  of  cement;  outstanding  for  this  product 
is  the  Penobscot  Bay  region.  In  Monson  and  Brown ville,  slate  quarrying 
has  been  carried  on  for  many  years.  Feldspar  is  mined  in  Oxford,  An- 
droscoggin,  Cumberland,  Sagadahoc,  and  Lincoln  Counties.  The  raw 
'  spar '  is  ground  in  mills  at  Topsham  and  West  Paris,  and  shipped  away  for 
use  in  the  manufacture  of  porcelains,  scouring  powders,  and  soap.  Great 
reserves  of  it  exist,  many  deposits  being  still  unexplored.  The  rock  known 
as  pegmatite,  or  'giant  granite,'  from  which  commercial  feldspar  is  ob- 
tained, also  yields  mica,  quartz,  beryl,  most  gems,  and  many  rare  and 
interesting  minerals.  The  clays  that  form  enormous  deposits  around 
Passamaquoddy  and  Penobscot  Bays  and  elsewhere  are  particularly  rich 
and  promising  sources  of  bauxite,  the  only  ore  of  aluminum  now  in  com- 
mercial use.  The  existence  of  cheap  power,  which  the  completed  tide- 
harnessing  project  at  Quoddy  would  supply,  should  make  the  develop- 
ment of  this  important  resource  economically  possible. 

Of  other  metals,  platinum  and  iridium  are  reported,  although  the 
possibility  of  obtaining  them  for  commercial  use  is  not  yet  clear.  Gold  is 
present  hi  small  quantities  in  a  number  of  places;  in  at  least  fifty  localities, 
placer  or  stream  gold  is  plentiful  enough  to  offer  fair  returns  to  the  pro- 


The  Nation's  Northeast  Corner  II 

spector  who  is  willing  to  pan  persistently.  Gold  quartz  of  promising  con- 
tent has  been  found  in  sufficient  quantity  to  warrant  at  least  small-scale 
mining.  Silver  is  found  in  most  of  the  lead  and  zinc  localities,  and  in  the 
copper  ores  at  Bluehill.  Some  pure  silver  has  been  mined  at  Sullivan  and 
elsewhere.  That  there  are  considerable  bodies  of  lead  and  zinc  of  definite 
value  has  been  known  since  they  were  first  mined  in  1860.  The  most 
successful  copper  mine  is  at  Bluehill,  last  worked  in  1917-18,  where  more 
than  two  million  pounds  of  copper  have  been  obtained.  Other  valuable 
copper  deposits  are  known  to  exist  in  northern  Franklin  County.  Iron  ore 
has  been  worked  on  a  small  scale  for  local  use  for  a  great  many  years, 
notably  at  Clinton.  At  the  Katahdin  Iron  Works,  extensive  operations 
were  carried  on  for  a  long  time;  but  since  the  opening  of  the  great  deposits 
in  Michigan  and  Minnesota,  small-scale  iron  operations  have  been  im- 
practicable. It  is  now  thought  that  Maine  bodies  of  iron  ore  may  be 
developed  successfully  in  conjunction  with  some  other  metal,  such  as 
molybdenum,  for  the  production  of  alloys  in  demand  by  the  steel  industry. 
Deposits  of  bog  iron  ore  are  numerous,  and  there  are  other  types  of 
promising  quality,  particularly  in  Aroostook  County.  A  large  company 
at  the  present  time  (1937)  is  engaged  near  Cooper  in  the  production  of 
molybdenum. 

Cassiterite,  the  usual  ore  of  tin,  has  been  found  at  a  number  of  the 
feldspar  localities,  and  a  definite  attempt  to  mine  it  has  been  made  at 
Winslow.  This  is  the  only  source  of  tin  known  to  exist  in  the  United 
States.  Antimony  ore,  pyrite,  marcasite,  and  pyrrhotite  (the  three 
latter  being  valuable  sources  for  sulphite)  are  widely  distributed  through- 
out the  State,  as  are  ores  of  manganese. 

Deposits  of  diatomaceous  earth  occur  at  Bluehill,  Beddington,  Phillips, 
Houlton,  and  generally  throughout  the  lake  country.  This  material,  con- 
sisting of  the  shells  of  microscopic  plants,  is  nearly  pure  silica.  It  is  a 
plastic  white  powder  deposited  in  bogs  and  ponds,  and  much  in  demand 
for  filtering,  scouring,  and  wall  insulation.  The  Phillips  deposit  is  now 
under  operation. 

The  probability  that  coal  or  oil  will  ever  be  found  in  Maine  in  com- 
mercial quantities  is  slight,  but  the  State  contains  a  large  and  practically 
untapped  fuel  reserve  in  its  deposits  of  peat.  Bogs  containing  peat  suit- 
able for  fuel  purposes,  from  a  few  acres  to  several  square  miles  in  size,  are 
found  all  over  the  State.  The  bogs  also  provide  a  moss  that  has  consider- 
able commercial  importance  to  florists  and  nurserymen. 

Asbestos  of  commercial  grade  is  known  to  exist  in  large  quantities  in 
Maine,  particularly  in  the  Spencer  Lake  region,  near  Eustis  on  the  Arnold 
Trail,  and  in  northern  Penobscot  County. 


12  Maine:  The  General  Background 


FLORA 

Maine's  flora  falls  into  two  classifications:  Canadian  in  the  cooler 
sections,  and  Transition  in  the  warmer.  Isolated  areas  of  one  type  of 
flora  are  sometimes  found  well  within  the  confines  of  the  other. 

Alpine  flora  occurs  on  the  upper  reaches  of  Mount  Katahdin  and  other 
high  peaks.  A  blue-leaf  birch  is  known  to  occur  in  these  regions;  and 
mountain  white  birch  and  mountain  alder  are  found  on  Katahdin. 
Among  the  more  hardy  plants  in  Alpine  areas  are  Lapland  diapensia, 
Alpine  bearberry,  Greenland  starwort,  lance-leaved  painted-cup,  Alpine 
trailing  azalea,  Alpine  holy-grass,  narrow-leaved  Labrador  tea,  blue 
spear-grass,  Lapland  rose-bay,  and  fir  club-moss. 

The  Transition  flora  grows  below  Cape  Elizabeth  on  the  coast,  in  all  of 
York  County,  and  in  the  southern  sections  of  counties  west  of  the 
Penobscot  River,  a  great  wooded  area  of  pine  and  oak.  The  Canadian 
flora  is  found  along  the  coast  north  of  Scarboro,  and  inland  above  an 
imaginary  line  running  from  Umbagog  Lake  in  the  Rangeley  section  to 
Mars  Hill  in  lower  Aroostook  County. 

The  white  pine,  sometimes  called  the  'masting  pine'  because  in 
Colonial  times  the  larger  trees  were  reserved  for  masts  for  the  Royal 
Navy,  is  displayed  on  the  State  seal  and  gives  Maine  its  name  of  'the 
Pine  Tree  State.'  These  pines  are  known  to  reach  a  height  of  two  hundred 
and  forty  feet,  and  a  diameter  of  six  feet  at  the  butt.  Once  abundant  in 
groves  throughout  the  State,  they  now  exist  for  the  most  part  only  in 
second  growth. 

Hemlock,  its  bark  valuable  for  tanning,  is  plentiful.  Balsam  fir,  some- 
times grown  commercially  for  the  Christmas-tree  trade,  runs  wild  all  over 
the  State;  the  wood,  imparting  no  flavor,  is  commonly  used  in  making 
butter-tubs.  Red  oak  occurs  in  all  parts  of  Maine  except  the  extreme 
north.  The  burr  oak  is  common  in  the  central  part  of  Maine.  White  or 
paper  birch  is  prevalent  throughout  all  but  southern  Maine,  often  appear- 
ing in  nearly  pure  stands  of  considerable  area.  The  yellow  birch  is  the 
largest  native  birch,  though  often  not  so  tall  as  the  white. 

There  is  an  abundance  of  sugar  or  rock  maple.  Mountain  maple  is  seen 
all  over  Maine;  and  box  elder  (also  a  maple),  planted  as  an  ornamental 
tree  in  southern  sections,  grows  wild  in  Aroostook  County.  Tupelo,  or 
black  gum,  is  not  found  north  of  Waterville. 

Pitch  pine  is  the  principal  tree  appearing  on  large  tracts  of  the  Bruns- 


The  Nation's  Northeast  Corner  13 

wick  district.  On  the  shore  of  Bauneg  Beg  Lake  in  North  Berwick  there 
is  a  large  stand  of  pitch  pine,  many  of  the  old  trees  of  great  size.  Coast 
white  cedar  is  found  only  in  York  County,  as  is  butternut,  an  introduced 
tree  and  the  only  species  of  walnut  growing  in  Maine.  Shagbark  is  found 
occasionally  in  southern  sections  and  as  far  east  as  Woolwich,  and  the 
nuts  are  sold  in  market. 

Maine's  oldest  and  most  valuable  trees  are  the  white  oaks,  some  of 
them  well  over  five  hundred  years  old.  The  bark  is  used  for  tanning. 
Black  or  yellow  oak  is  confined  to  the  southerly  coastal  regions,  and  the 
swamp  white  oak  and  the  chestnut  oak  are  found  locally  in  southern 
Maine.  Chestnuts  are  not  common,  most  of  them  having  been  destroyed 
by  the  chestnut-bark  disease.  The  slippery  elm,  so  named  because  of  its 
mucilaginous  inner  bark,  and  the  sassafras  are  little  known.  The  syca- 
more or  buttonwood  is  found  along  streams  in  southern  Maine.  Poison 
sumach  is  found  as  a  shrub  in  the  Transition  area. 

Trees  common  throughout  the  State  are  tamarack,  locally  called  by  its 
Indian  name  of  hackmatack;  red  spruce,  most  abundant  of  Maine's 
conifers,  growing  as  high  as  eighty  feet,  and  valued  as  the  principal  wood 
used  for  paper  pulp  (it  also  supplies  spruce  gum,  which  is  gathered  from 
September  to  June) ;  white  spruce,  called  '  skunk  spruce '  by  lumbermen 
because  of  the  odor  of  its  foliage;  white  cedar  or  arborvitae,  growing  in 
dense  stands  on  swampy  ground;  and  black  willow,  the  largest  and  most 
conspicuous  American  willow. 

The  rapid-growing  aspen  poplar,  used  for  book-paper  pulp,  is  abundant, 
being  often  found  in  nearly  pure  stands.  The  large-tooth  aspen  and  the 
balsam  poplar  are  common  throughout  the  State.  Ironwood,  or  horn- 
beam, is  widely  distributed,  though  not  abundant.  Common  beech  is 
plentiful. 

The  white  or  American  elm,  one  of  Maine's  largest  and  most  graceful 
trees,  is  common  throughout  this  State,  as  it  is  through  all  of  New  England. 
It  is  generally  planted  near  houses,  many  persons  believing  that  it  diverts 
lightning.  Fully  as  beautiful  is  the  mountain  ash.  Wild  cherry,  found  in 
every  section,  is  of  little  value  except  as  cover  for  burned-over  areas. 
But  the  wild  black  cherry,  widely  distributed  though  not  abundant, 
provides  one  of  the  State's  most  valuable  furniture  woods.  The  red  plum 
is  occasionally  grafted  and  often  used  as  an  ornamental  tree.  Striped 
maple  or  moosewood  is  a  lovely  tree  found  all  over  Maine.  The  silver 
maple  grows  near  the  coast,  its  sap  being  used  to  make  an  inferior  maple 
syrup.  Red  maple  is  the  most  abundant,  growing  in  swamp  lands.  The 
basswood,  a  species  of  linden,  is  attractive  for  its  flowers,  which  are 


14  Maine:  The  General  Background 

popular  with  honey  bees.  The  black  ash  and  white  ash,  the  latter  a 
valuable  timber  tree,  are  prominent  all  over  the  State. 

A  rare  shrub  called  the  prostrate  savin  or  trailing  yew  is  found  on 
Monhegan  Island,  and  other  islands  east  of  Casco  Bay;  on  Mount  Desert 
Island  it  is  called  the  Bar  Harbor  juniper. 

Among  the  common  shrubs  of  Maine  are  the  speckled  alder,  in  swamp 
and  pasture  lands;  witch  hazel,  bordering  most  forest  areas;  several 
nearly  indistinguishable  varieties  of  shad-bush,  whose  white  sweet- 
scented  flowers  are  the  first  harbingers  of  spring  and  whose  wood  is  used 
in  making  fishing  rods;  the  hawthorn  or  thorn  apple;  the  chokecherry, 
found  along  farm  fence-rows;  and  the  staghorn  sumach. 

Trees  introduced  into  Maine  with  marked  success  include  the  Norway 
spruce,  the  Colorado  or  blue  spruce,  and  three  poplars  —  the  white 
poplar,  the  cottonwood  or  Carolina  poplar,  and  the  Lombardy  poplar. 
The  European  beech,  the  copper  beech,  and  the  English  elm  have  been 
introduced  largely  as  ornamental  trees,  as  has  the  European  mountain 
ash  or  rowan  tree,  superior  to  the  native  mountain  ash  in  brilliancy  of 
coloring,  its  bright  red  berries  remaining  well  into  the  winter.  The  black 
locust  and  the  honey  locust  were  brought  into  the  southern  part  of  Maine, 
and  the  latter  is  now  common  in  the  vicinity  of  Paris  and  elsewhere.  The 
horse-chestnut  was  introduced  from  Asia  by  way  of  southern  Europe. 

In  Washington  and  Hancock  Counties  low-bush  blueberries  have 
developed  considerable  commercial  importance.  Mountain  cranberries 
grow  abundantly  in  the  Mount  Desert  region,  having  long  since  given 
their  name  to  the  Cranberry  Isles,  and  the  large  bog  cranberry  is  widely 
distributed  in  marshlands  over  the  State.  Most  flowers  and  blossoming 
shrubs  common  to  the  north  temperate  zone  can  be  found,  generally  more 
brilliantly  colored  along  the  shore  than  in  the  interior.  Among  the  more 
widely  distributed  species  of  the  Mount  Desert  region  are  American  wood 
anemone,  New  England  aster  (introduced),  seaside  aster,  swamp  aster, 
wild  bergamot,  American  bittersweet,  black-eyed  Susan,  bluet,  tall 
meadow-cup,  clover,  sweet  clover,  white  ox-eye  daisy,  and  dandelion. 
Others  are  blueflag,  Canada  goldenrod,  salt  marsh  goldenrod,  fragrant 
goldenrod,  goldthread,  blue-eyed  grass,  harebell,  orange  hawkweed,  false 
heather,  hepatica,  and  Indian  pipe. 

Familiar  are  Jack-in-the-pulpit,  Joe-pye,  seaside  knotgrass,  sea 
lavender,  and  wild  lily-of-the-valley  or  Canada  mayflower.  The  most 
common  wayside  lilies  are  the  Canada  lily  and  American  turk's  cap 
(introduced).  Mayflower,  the  trailing  arbutus,  ushers  in  the  spring.  Of 
the  many  orchids  native  to  Maine,  the  best  known  are  arethusa,  common 


The  Nation's  Northeast  Corner  15 

and  yellow  lady-slippers,  rose  pogonia,  and  the  small  purple  and  white 
orchids. 

Devil's  paintbrush  grows  in  profusion,  spreading  through  the  fields  to 
the  grief  of  the  farmer  and  the  joy  of  the  passer-by.  Other  bright  flowers 
are  the  scarlet  pimpernel,  the  sea  or  marsh  pink,  the  swamp  pink,  pitcher- 
plant,  and  pokeweed  (rare).  Maine's  two  rhododendrons  are  not  common, 
but  the  well-known  rhodora,  immortalized  by  Emerson,  is  no  less  beauti- 
ful. Best  known  of  the  wild  roses  are  the  swamp  rose,  meadow  rose,  and 
wild  brier  rose.  Purple  trillium  and  painted  trillium,  yellow  violet, 
common  purple  violet,  blue  marsh  violet,  and  sweet  white  violet,  the 
giant  sunflower  (escaped  from  gardens),  eglantine  or  sweetbrier,  wood- 
bine, and  yellow  wood-sorrel  are  all  commonly  found.1 


FAUNA 

In  wide  areas  still  untouched  by  urban  civilization,  Maine  is  today  rich 
in  many  of  the  species  of  birds,  mammals,  and  fish  that  attracted  the  early 
explorers.  On  the  other  hand,  man's  continual  slaughter  of  wild  life  has 
caused  extinction  of  the  great  auk,  the  passenger  pigeon,  the  heath  hen, 
and  the  Eskimo  curlew,  and  has  driven  the  timber  wolf,  the  panther,  the 
wild  turkey,  and  the  swan  out  of  the  State.  Northern  white-tailed  deer, 
first  noticed  in  numbers  about  1900,  have  increased  in  the  State.  Some 
believe  that  the  migration  of  the  caribou,  not  seen  south  of  the  Canadian 
border  for  nearly  thirty  years,  is  due  to  the  close  cropping  of  forest 
vegetation  by  the  deer.  The  Maine  State  Planning  Board  reports  that 
even  with  an  annual  kill  of  more  than  sixteen  thousand,  deer  are  more 
plentiful  now  than  they  were  a  hundred  years  ago.  American  elk,  com- 
monly called  moose  from  the  Indian  musu,  are  found  in  all  the  northern 
counties.  Since  they  have  been  protected  by  law,  they  have  even  been 
seen  along  the  coast,  particularly  in  the  marshy  woodlands  of  Waldo 
County.  Black  or  cinnamon  bear,  sometimes  of  large  size,  are  numerous 
along  the  beech  ridges  of  northern  Aroostook.  Bay  lynx  or  bobcat  are 
known  in  every  county,  especially  in  Aroostook.  But  panther  and 
catamount  are  no  more ;  and  the  gray  wolf,  once  known  all  over  Maine,  was 
last  seen  in  1930  in  Bluehill.  The  Canada  lynx,  the  so-called  loup-cervier, 
is  not  uncommon  in  the  Magalloway  region. 

1  The  Portland  Society  of  Natural  History,  22  Elm  St.,  has  on  exhibition  in  its  Herbarium 
well-authenticated  specimens  of  practically  all  plants  known  to  occur  in  Maine.  The  State 
Park  in  Augusta  also  has  a  fine  collection  of  plants,  shrubs,  and  trees  of  the  State. 


1 6  Maine:  The  General  Background 

Except  in  the  extreme  southwestern  part,  Canadian  beaver  are  increas- 
ing throughout  the  State.  There  are  more  than  two  thousand  of  them  in 
the  Penobscot  east  country  alone.  It  is  now  considered  that  the  damage 
done  by  beavers  to  streams  and  woods  is  more  than  offset  by  the  value  of 
their  dammed-up  pools  in  aiding  fire-fighters.  Muskrat,  American  otter, 
American  mink,  fisher,  and  marten  (known  as  American  sable)  are  all  to 
be  found  in  Maine.  The  Maine  weasel  is  the  only  animal  to  which  the 
State  has  given  its  name.  Raccoon  are  increasing.  Skunk  are  common, 
as  are  red  foxes  in  all  their  color  variations  —  cross,  silver,  and  black. 
The  hare  (commonly  called  snowshoe  rabbit),  gray  rabbit,  confined 
principally  to  York  and  Cumberland  Counties,  northern  red  squirrel, 
northern  gray  squirrel,  and  chipmunk  are  plentiful.  Woodchucks 
abound;  but  hedgehogs,  generally  known  as  American  porcupine,  have 
been  nearly  exterminated  since  a  bounty  was  placed  on  them.  The  com- 
mon shrew  and  the  mole  or  short-tailed  shrew  are  known  generally,  and 
a  rare  species  of  shrew,  Sorex  thompsoni,  has  been  found  in  Brunswick, 
Norway,  and  Waterville.  Maine  has  the  brown  bat,  the  little  brown  bat, 
hoary  bat,  and  silver-haired  bat;  as  well  as  the  wood  mouse,  field  mouse, 
and  house  mouse.  In  the  Alpine  areas  are  found  the  chickaree,  north- 
ern flying  squirrel,  Canada  porcupine,  Labrador  jumping  mouse,  and 
Canadian  white-footed  mouse. 

Pickering's  tree  frog  sounds  the  first  note  of  spring;  there  are  also  the 
bullfrog,  yellow-throated  green  frog,  marsh  or  pickerel  frog,  woodfrog, 
common  or  leopard  frog,  and  tree  frog  —  the  latter  often  erroneously 
called  tree  toad.  Maine  has  several  varieties  of  turtle  —  the  snapping 
turtle,  mud  turtle  or  painted  terrapin,  yellow-spotted  or  speckled 
tortoise,  wood  tortoise,  and  box  tortoise  —  the  latter  very  rare  this  far 
north.  According  to  Dr.  Ditmars,  of  the  New  York  Zoological  Park,  there 
are  no  poisonous  snakes  in  Maine,  but  there  are,  of  course,  the  small 
garter  snake,  striped  snake,  ribbon  snake,  green  snake,  water  snake,  and 
an  occasional  milk  adder. 

Seals  abound  along  the  coast  above  Casco  Bay,  and  there  is  a  bounty 
on  them  in  the  Passamaquoddy  Bay  region.  Finback  whales  are  increas- 
ing along  the  lower  Maine  coast;  in  1936  as  many  as  twenty  or  thirty  at  a 
time  were  seen  off  Wells  and  Kennebunk  early  in  March.  Maine  has  a 
wide  variety  of  game  fish  (see  Sports  and  Recreation).  There  is  an  abun- 
dance of  lobster  and  clams  along  the  coast,  the  small  white  Scarboro  clam 
being  particularly  succulent.  Shore  or  rock  crabs,  scallops,  shrimps,  and 
mussels  are  all  plentiful. 

Of  the  three  hundred  and  twenty-one  known  species  of  birds  within  the 


The  Nation's  Northeast  Corner  17 

State,  twenty-six  are  permanent  residents.  In  Maine's  Canadian  areas 
are  the  Acadian  chickadee  and  the  eastern  snow  bunting,  while  Bicknell's 
thrush  is  known  to  breed  on  the  upper  reaches  of  the  mountains.  From 
Labrador  to  the  Everglades,  the  nests  of  only  twenty  northern  bald- 
headed  eagles  have  ever  been  discovered,  and  of  these  two  are  at  George- 
town and  one  at  Newcastle;  they  are  occupied  each  year.  There  are 
known  to  be  at  least  twenty-five  giant  eagles  in  the  hills  near  Cherryfield. 
A  great  golden  eagle  was  reported  as  seen  on  Eagle  Cliff  at  Carrying 
Place  near  Bingham  in  1933,  and  others  have  been  seen  in  the  past  at 
Penobscot.  The  Canada  ruffed  grouse,  erroneously  called  partridge,  is 
Maine's  most  highly  prized  game  bird.  The  Fish  and  Game  Commissioner 
annually  liberates  thousands  of  ring-necked  pheasants  along  the  coastal 
range  from  North  Berwick  to  Cherryfield,  and  this  species  is  increasing 
rapidly.  The  common  mallard  or  wild  duck  and  the  common  black  duck 
breed  here,  and  are  the  most  popular  game  birds  among  the  water- 
fowl. 

The  more  common  birds  of  Maine's  Canadian  fauna  are  the  brown 
creeper,  American  golden-eye,  eastern  goshawk,  rusty  grackle,  Holboell's 
grebe,  Canada  jay  (known  otherwise  as  moosebird  and  whisky  jay),  slate- 
colored  junco,  eastern  golden-crowned  kinglet,  common  loon,  red- 
breasted  nuthatch,  old-squaw,  snowy  owl,  spruce  partridge,  northern 
raven,  red-poll,  red-backed  sandpiper,  white-winged  scoter,  pine  siskin, 
Acadian  sharp-tailed  sparrow,  Lincoln's  sparrow,  white-throated  sparrow, 
olive-backed  thrush,  water  thrush,  black-poll  warbler,  myrtle  warbler, 
yellow  palm  warbler,  eastern  winter  wren,  and  lesser  yellow-legs. 

A  partial  list  of  the  birds  of  Maine's  Transition  fauna  includes  the 
eastern  least  bittern  (rare),  red- winged  blackbird,  eastern  bluebird, 
bobolink,  eastern  bob-white,  black-capped  chickadee,  American  crossbill, 
eastern  crow,  yellow-billed  cuckoo  (very  rare),  eastern  mourning  dove, 
alder  flycatcher,  olive-sided  flycatcher,  bronzed  grackle,  ruffed  grouse, 
bluejay,  eastern  belted  kingfisher,  eastern  meadowlark,  white-breasted 
nuthatch,  Baltimore  oriole,  orchard  oriole  (very  rare),  barred  or  hoot  owl, 
screech  owl,  short-eared  owl,  saw-whet  owl,  domestic  pigeon,  eastern  or 
American  robin,  spotted  sandpiper,  eastern  field  sparrow  (uncommon), 
Savannah  sparrow,  sharp-tailed  sparrow,  starling,  bank  swallow,  barn 
swallow,  cliff  swallow,  tree  swallow,  scarlet  tanager,  brown  thrasher  or 
song  thrush,  wood  thrush  (rare),  and  hermit  thrush,  towhee,  Philadelphia 
vireo,  black- throated  blue  warbler,  black  and  yellow  or  magnolia  warbler, 
whippoorwill,  northern  downy  woodpecker,  northern  hairy  woodpecker, 
northern  pileated  woodpecker  (uncommon),  and  eastern  house  wren. 


1 8  Maine:  The  General  Background 

The  domestic  pigeon,  the  pheasant,  the  English  sparrow,  and  the  starling 
have  been  introduced  into  the  State. 

The  islands  off  the  Maine  coast  constitute  the  great  nursery  of  the 
North  Atlantic  sea  birds.  Green  Island,  six  or  seven  miles  out  from  Cliff 
Island  in  Casco  Bay,  is  a  favorite  breeding  place  for  gulls.  Of  one  hundred 
and  eleven  offshore  islands  visited  in  1931,  seventy-seven  had  nesting 
colonies  of  American  herring  gulls,  which  are  so  common  in  Washington 
County  as  to  be  an  annoyance  to  blueberry  growers.  In  1934,  herring 
gulls  decimated  a  colony  of  double-crested  cormorants  on  a  Penobscot 
Bay  island,  and  have  wiped  out  other  colonies.  Great  numbers  of  them 
breed  inland  on  Gull  Island  in  Moosehead  Lake,  and  many  others  on 
Rangeley  waters.  The  black  guillemot  was  found  breeding  on  twenty- 
four  islands.  The  American  merganser  stays  close  to  fresh  water,  and  is  a 
coast  resident  in  winter  only.  The  red-breasted  merganser  or  sea  robin, 
common  in  coastal  areas  of  Canadian  fauna,  is  found  inland  in  summer. 
Leach's  petrel  is  the  only  representative  of  its  order  known  to  breed  along 
the  Maine  coast.  The  northern  raven  is  common  along  the  upper  coast, 
but  is  rarely  seen  inland.  The  great  black-backed  gulls  are  just  returning 
to  Maine  after  an  absence  of  many  years.  Double-crested  cormorants 
breed  regularly  on  Penobscot  Bay  islands. 

American  eider  ducks,  the  largest  of  Maine  sea  ducks,  now  breed  here 
and  are  seen  frequently  near  the  outer  islands  in  January.  Canada  goose, 
commonly  called  wild  goose,  was  once  known  to  breed  as  far  south  as 
Mere  Point,  instead  of  entirely  in  northern  Quebec,  and  the  Arctic  as  at 
present.  Merrymeeting  Bay  is  one  of  the  most  important  way  stations  on 
the  coast  for  them  in  the  spring.  From  early  March  until  the  middle  of 
May,  they  gather  there  in  great  numbers. 

Terns  are  often  blamed  for  the  mischief  done  by  herring  gulls,  but  this 
is  a  mistake  since  they  eat  live  gamey  food  only.  The  common  tern 
breeds  on  most  of  Maine's  grassy  islands.  On  Upper  Sugar  Loaf  Island, 
not  far  from  Popham  Beach,  there  are  colonies  of  common  tern  and 
roseate  tern,  the  latter  now  increasing  from  a  distinct  rarity.  Puffins,  also 
called  sea  parrots,  are  likewise  increasing;  the  best  place  south  of  the 
Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  to  see  these  interesting  birds  is  on  Machias  Seal 
Island,  where  there  is  a  colony  of  several  hundred.  On  the  same  island 
are  many  razor-billed  auks,  which  apparently  do  not  breed  there.  Al- 
though the  island  belongs  to  the  United  States,  the  light  there  is  operated 
by  the  Canadian  Government,  and  permission  to  visit  the  island  must  be 
obtained  from  the  Canadian  Department  of  Marine,  at  St.  John,  New 
Brunswick, 


The  Nation's  Northeast  Corner  19 

The  laughing  gull  is  rare,  but  there  is  a  colony  of  this  species  in  Penob- 
scot  Bay.  The  common  loon  breeds  in  inland  ponds.  The  great  blue 
herons  are  increasing  rapidly  on  the  coast;  one  of  their  large  breeding 
grounds,  Bartlett's  Island  near  Bar  Harbor,  is  protected  by  the  Federal 
Government.  Black-crowned  night  herons  are  also  more  frequently  seen 
than  formerly.  And  the  osprey  is  no  longer  uncommon  on  the  Maine 
coast.1 

1  The  Portland  Society  of  Natural  History,  22  Elm  St.,  Portland,  maintains  an  exhibition 
room  with  a  complete  collection  of  representative  birds  of  the  State.  Information  and  sug- 
gestions about  bird  colonies  may  be  obtained  from  the  director. 


EARLIEST    INHABITANTS: 
THE    RED    PAINT    PEOPLE 


SCATTERED  all  along  the  Maine  coast  and  through  southern  New 
England  are  great  shell-heaps,  said  to  have  been  accumulated  from  one 
thousand  to  five  thousand  years  ago.  Allowing  a  century  for  a  certain 
number  of  inches  of  mold  upon  the  mounds,  archeologists  have  been  able 
in  some  degree  to  estimate  their  great  age.  They  were  made,  it  is  sup- 
posed, by  the  Indians  who  in  summer  migrated  to  the  coast  and  reaped 
mighty  harvests  from  the  sea.  The  heaps  are  so  large  that  it  must  have 
required  centuries  of  clam-feasts  for  their  accumulation.  They  are  val- 
uable because  of  the  many  interesting  relics  found  buried  in  them. 

But  these  are  not  the  earliest  archeological  remains.  Throughout  the 
central  and  eastern  part  of  the  State,  along  the  coast  and  in  stream  valleys, 
Maine  inhabitants  have  been  discovering  since  the  time  of  the  first  settlers 
the  graves  of  a  prehistoric  people  who  had  either  become  extinct  or  had 
evolved  a  new  civilization  by  the  time  the  shell-heaps  began  to  take  form. 
While  these  graves  occur  most  thickly  in  Maine,  the  area  in  which  they 
are  found  extends  throughout  New  England  and  into  Canada.  Because 
the  shell-heaps  contain  remains  of  mollusks  now  found  only  in  southern 
waters  and  the  surface  of  the  land  along  the  shore  seems  to  have  suffered 
some  change,  we  know  that  this  early  people  existed  in  a  time  when  geolo- 
gic evolution  was  still  going  on  and  the  climate  of  New  England  was  much 
warmer  than  it  is  now.  That  this  people  antedated  those  who  made  the 
shell-heaps  is  ascertained  by  the  difference  in  the  quality  and  workman- 
ship of  the  weapons  found  in  the  shell-heaps  and  in  the  graves. 

Very  little  actually  is  known  about  these  earliest  inhabitants.  They  are 
called  the  Red  Paint  People  because  each  of  the  discovered  graves  con- 
tains a  quantity  (varying  from  less  than  two  quarts  to  a  bushel)  of  a 
brilliant  red  ocher  (powdered  hematite) .  Sometimes,  though  rarely,  this 
pigment  is  shaded  to  yellow  or  brown,  the  yellow  coloration  often  found 
in  the  graves  having  been  created  by  iron  corrosion.  The  fact  of  '  ocher 
burial '  is  not  particularly  distinctive,  however,  because  it  is  a  character- 
istic of  certain  early  peoples  the  world  over.  Paleolithic  graves  in  France 
and  Australia  show  evidences  of  ocher;  later  races  in  New  England 


GLIMPSES      OF      HISTORY 


ARCHEOLOGICAL  discoveries  casting  greater  light  on  our 
earliest  inhabitants  are  still  being  made.  Tombs  such  as  that 
pictured  here  add  new  facts  to  old  history,  help  round  out  the 
mysterious  story  of  Maine's  paleolithic  people,  the  so-called 
'Red  Paint'  Indians. 

Visible  monuments  to  the  early  struggles  of  the  pioneers  to 
establish  themselves  on  the  first  frontiers  of  America  are  the 
old  forts  with  their  stockades  and  blockhouses,  many  of 
which  remain  standing  today.  Scattered  along  the  coastline 
for  protection  of  harbors  and  port  towns  there  are  many  more 
substantial,  but  long  since  abandoned,  fortifications  dating 
back  to  the  Civil  War  and  the  War  of  1812.  Good  examples 
of  these  are  Fort  Knox  and  Fort  Popham,  pictured  here. 

More  useful  and  more  beautiful  landmarks  appear  in  many  of 
the  State's  old  bridges,  for  they  record  development  and  pro- 
gress in  times  of  peace.  The  Old  Covered  Bridge  at  Stillwater 
is  of  a  type  fast  disappearing  from  the  New  England  scene. 

Casco  Castle  is  another  significant  landmark,  all  that  is  left  of 
a  great  amusement  resort  which  knew  considerable  popularity 
in  the  heyday  of  the  streetcar. 


'RED  PAINT'  (INDIAN)  VAULT  AT  THE  FORKS 


FORT  Me  CLARY,  KITTERY  POINT 


FORT  HALIFAX,  WINSLOW 


OLD  OXFORD  COUNTY  JAIL,  PARIS  HILL 


FORT  KNOX,  PROSPECT 


CASCO  CASTLE,  FREEPORT 


FORT  EDGECOMB,  NORTH  EDGECOMB 


FORT  POPHAM,  POPHAM  BEACH 


FIRST  PILE  BRIDGE  IN  NORTH  AMERICA,  SEW  ALL  BRIDGE  AT  YORK 


OLD  COVERED  BRIDGE,  STILL  WATER 


OLD  POWDER  HOUSE  AT  WISCASSET 


Earliest  Inhabitants:  The  Red  Paint  People  21 

occasionally  painted  their  bodies  with  it,  and  sometimes  it  is  found  in  their 
graves.  The  now  extinct  Beothuks  of  Newfoundland  had  a  particular 
predilection  for  red  ocher,  smearing  not  only  their  bodies  with  it  but  their 
huts,  their  canoes,  and  all  their  possessions;  and  for  this  they  were  called 
Red  Indians  by  early  explorers.  The  Beothuks  were  a  comparatively 
modern  race,  however,  and  there  are  no  evidences  of  paleolithic  man  in 
this  section  of  the  New  World.  Maine's  Red  Paint  People,  apparently 
very  early  in  the  development  of  neolithic  culture,  may  be  regarded  then 
as  a  cultural  unit.  Many  of  their  stone  artifacts  are  unlike  those  of  the  In- 
dians who  later  occupied  the  same  territory;  certain  of  their  implements, 
indeed,  were  made  of  different  materials  from  any  used  by  later  Stone 
Age  people.  The  similarity  of  their  culture,  as  manifested  by  the  stone 
implements,  to  that  of  the  Eskimo  has  led  some  writers  to  suggest  that 
they  were  not  red  Indians  at  all;  others,  influenced  by  their  common  use 
of  ocher,  see  in  them  early  relatives  to  the  Beothuks  of  Newfoundland. 

At  any  rate,  they  were  a  somewhat  widely  scattered  and  highly 
developed  people.  Although  not  agriculturalists  like  later  Indians  who 
occupied  the  same  territory,  they  had  developed  a  high  degree  of  crafts- 
manship. They  used  fire-making  tools  of  a  sort  superior  to  those  of  the 
later  Indians;  their  implements  imply  skill  in  woodworking,  and  they 
made  boats,  possibly  log  dug-outs,  in  which  they  seem  to  have  traveled 
considerable  distances. 

Since  the  time  of  the  earliest  white  settlements,  red  ocher  graves  have 
been  found.  Early  New  Englanders  regarded  them  with  extreme  suspicion ; 
to  find  one  was  considered  an  evil  omen.  Hardy  adventurers,  however,  un- 
earthing the  paint,  put  it  to  good  advantage  when  they  saw  that  it  gave  a 
satisfactory  finish  to  their  furniture  and  other  woodwork.  At  first  the 
ocher  deposits,  always  accompanied  as  they  were  by  strange  stone 
weapons,  were  not  imagined  to  be  associated  with  burials.  Only  more 
recently  have  bone  dust  and  even  tiny  fragments  of  undecayed  human 
bone  been  discovered  in  them.  A  startling  find  was  turned  up  not  long 
ago  when  city  employees  of  Waterville,  hi  excavating  a  public  road,  un- 
covered two  skeletons  preserved  in  red  ocher;  when  the  air  struck  them, 
they  visibly  turned  to  dust,  all  but  a  few  fragments  that  are  now  preserved 
in  Portland's  Museum  of  Natural  History. 

In  the  late  nineteenth  century,  Dr.  Augustus  C.  Hamlin  of  Bangor 
interested  archeologists  at  Harvard  University's  Peabody  Museum  in 
investigating  the  Maine  Red  Paint  cemeteries.  The  first  extensive  ex- 
ploration was  carried  on  by  the  Peabody  Museum,  and  later  work  was 
done  by  expeditions  from  Phillips  Academy  of  Andover,  Massachusetts. 


22  Maine :  The  General  Background 

Some  of  the  best  collections  of  Red  Paint  artifacts  are  at  the  Peabody 
Museum  and  at  Phillips  Andover  Academy  —  the  largest  at  the  latter. 
The  findings  in  about  thirty  Red  Paint  cemeteries  have  been  recorded;  the 
best  reference  is  C.  C.  Willoughby's  'Antiquities  of  the  New  England 
Indians'  (Peabody  Museum  Publications,  1935).  Of  course,  many  other 
cemeteries  have  been  found  of  which  there  is  no  record,  the  relics  having 
been  dug  out  and  lost  or  scattered.  All  the  recorded  cemeteries  in  Maine 
are  near  water  navigable  for  small  boats.  All  but  two  are  on  stream  banks 
or  near  the  coast;  the  two  exceptions,  although  on  high  ground,  lie  beside 
what  may  once  have  been  the  course  of  a  stream  now  deflected  in  another 
direction.  The  recorded  cemeteries  are  as  follows:  on  Penobscot  waters, 
one  each  in  Rowland,  Eddington,  Hampden,  Milford,  and  Swanville;  two 
each  in  Bucksport,  Bradley,  Old  Town,  and  Passadumkeag;  five  in 
Orland.  On  the  Kennebec,  one  each  at  Kineo,  Oakland,  Waterville,  and 
Winslow.  Three  have  been  found  on  the  Georges  River  in  the  townships  of 
Warren  and  Union;  and  two  in  Ellsworth  on  the  Union  River.  One  was 
discovered  at  Pemaquid  Pond  in  Bristol,  one  in  Bluehill  on  Bluehill  Bay, 
and  one  at  Sullivan  Falls  on  Frenchman's  Bay.  These  are  among  the 
oldest  archeological  remains  of  North  America,  and  are  therefore  of  great 
importance. 

Most  of  the  graves  contain  knives  and  spear-points,  but  not  arrow- 
heads —  apparently  the  bow  and  arrow  were  not  known  to  these  people. 
Red  Paint  or,  more  properly,  pre-Algonquian,  implements  consist  mainly 
of  adze  blades,  pear-shaped  sinkers,  fire-making  sets,  chipped-flint  knives, 
long  slender  lance-heads  and  projectile  points,  sharpening  stones,  a  few 
slate  pendants  in  the  form  of  a  whale's  tail,  and  several  perforated  slate 
ceremonials  commonly  called  'banners tones.'  These  types  are  found  to  a 
rather  less  extent  throughout  New  England  and  portions  of  the  adjacent 
territory.  Instruments  are  found  in  varying  numbers  and  of  uneven 
workmanship,  though  of  a  fairly  consistent  high-grade  quality.  Some  of 
them  are  covered  with  what  seem  to  be  inscriptions  or  designs,  which  no 
doubt  are  meant  to  tell  some  story.  In  at  least  one  case,  inscriptions  were 
made  on  a  thin  tablet  intended  for  no  other  use. 

But  notwithstanding  the  discoveries  made,  no  one  has  yet  been  able 
to  say  where  these  people  came  from,  how  long  they  were  here,  or  whence 
and  why  they  departed.  Of  them  we  really  know  nothing  —  what  they 
looked  like,  how  they  lived,  even  how  they  talked.  The  sources  of  certain 
types  of  minerals  and  rocks  which  they  used  have  never  been  discovered. 
Their  uses  of  certain  specialized  artifacts  are  unknown  to  us.  No  one  has 
ever  found  the  sites  of  any  of  their  villages.  A  theory  which  would  ac- 


Earliest  Inhabitants:  The  Red  Paint  People  23 

count  for  their  disappearance  may  be  that  they  inhabited  regions  of  the 
coast  now  sunk  below  the  sea,  and  that  they  themselves  or  their  villages 
were  borne  away  in  a  tidal  wave.  Certain  geological  discoveries  in  regard 
to  the  sinking  of  the  Maine  coastal  level  seem  to  bear  out  this  hypothesis. 
Furthermore,  some  archeologists  believe  that  many  of  the  cemeteries  are 
not  on  their  original  sites,  having  apparently  been  hastily  moved  en  masse, 
as  if  it  were  that  the  sacred  objects  contained  in  the  graves  had  to  be 
carried  to  higher  ground  to  escape  the  ravages  of  floods.  This  explanation 
does  not,  however,  account  for  the  disappearance  of  those  pre-Algonquian 
people  who  lived  further  inland  in  what  are  now  other  states  than  Maine. 
The  supposition  that  they  were  an  early  branch  of  the  Beothuks  of  New- 
foundland, whom  they  seem  to  resemble  in  many  ways,  is  not  proved. 
Some  scientists  continue  to  believe  that  the  Red  Paint  People  were  driven 
into  the  North,  and  are  now  represented  there  by  the  Eskimos,  many  of 
whose  ceremonial  instruments  closely  resemble  artifacts  which  have  been 
unearthed  in  Maine. 

There  are  collections  of  Red  Paint  artifacts  hi  the  State  Museum  at 
Augusta,  the  Bangor  Historical  Society  exhibit  at  the  Bangor  Public 
Library,  the  Maine  Historical  Society  at  Portland,  Dr.  J.  Howard  Wil- 
son's Museum  at  Castine,  the  Knox  County  Historical  Society  at  Thomas- 
ton,  and  the  Robert  Abbe  Memorial  Museum  at  Bar  Harbor.  Many 
other  extensive  and  interesting  collections  are  in  the  possession  of  indivi- 
dual persons  or  families  throughout  the  State. 


THE      ABNAKI      INDIANS 


OF  THE  many  tribes  of  Indians  that  inhabited  Maine  at  the  time  of  the 
white  man's  coming  in  the  early  seventeenth  century,  only  two  remain, 
the  Penobscots  and  the  Passamaquoddies.  They  are  all  that  is  left  of  the 
Abnaki  or  Wabenaki,  'people  of  the  dawn,'  a  once  powerful  nation  of 
more  than  twenty  tribes  inhabiting  parts  of  Canada,  Maine,  New  Hamp- 
shire, and  northern  Massachusetts.  The  Passamaquoddies  and  the  In- 
dians of  the  St.  John  River  are  descendants  of  the  ancient  Etchimins,  a 
seafaring  people  who  were  originally  a  branch  of  the  Abnaki.  However 
much  they  differ  in  customs  and  in  dialect,  both  of  these  tribes  derive 
their  language  and  principal  characteristics  from  a  common  Algonquian 
stock.  They  are  the  least  disintegrated  racially  of  all  the  present-day  de- 
scendants of  New  England's  aborigines;  many  families  among  them  have  a 
heritage  unmixed  with  white  or  African  blood.  But  their  tribal  distinc- 
tions have  long  since  become  blurred  by  inter-association  with  the  rem- 
nants of  other  vanishing  tribes,  and  by  the  effacing  of  many  of  their  tradi- 
tions under  the  stress  of  modern  industrial  life.  Also,  to  please  the  tourist 
trade,  they  have  been  tempted  into  adopting  manners  and  costumes 
entirely  foreign  to  them. 

The  Penobscots  live  mainly  on  a  reservation  at  Indian  or  Panawamske 
Island  in  Old  Town;  the  Passamaquoddies  or  Pestumokadyik  ('people 
who  spear  pollock')  have  reservations  at  Pleasant  Point  near  Eastport, 
and  at  Peter  Dana  Point  near  Princeton.  There  are  probably  not  many 
more  than  one  thousand  Indians  of  fairly  unadulterated  stock  in  Maine 
today,  the  majority  of  whom  live  at  Old  Town;  but  that  is  a  considerably 
larger  number  than  was  estimated  to  be  living  in  the  State  one  hundred 
years  ago. 

The  Indians  of  Maine  have  always  been  a  peaceful  and  friendly 
people,  living  chiefly  by  agricultural  activities.  It  was  they  who  kept  the 
early  settlers  of  Massachusetts  alive  by  sending  presents  of  food  to  the 
settlements.  They  were  ultimately  aroused  to  violent  action  only  by  the 
prolonged  aggression  of  the  settlers  and  by  being  forced  to  take  sides  in  the 
English-French  struggles.  And  when  they  did  rise  up,  whole  tribes  were 
remorselessly  exterminated.  It  is  a  significant  fact  that  the  custom  of  tak- 
ing scalps  was  not  known  among  them  until  instituted  by  English 


The  Abnaki  Indians  25 


officers.  Today  they  live  harmoniously  among  themselves  and  with  their 
white  neighbors,  and  in  general  maintain  high  standards  of  conduct. 

The  Indian  villages  are  autonomous  in  government,  each  electing  its 
own  officers.  The  tribes  may  send  representatives  to  the  State  legislature, 
although  the  people  are  not  citizens.  Most  of  them  are  deeply  religious, 
the  majority  being  communicants  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church.  They 
have  their  own  convents  and  schools,  the  latter  supported  largely  by  the 
State.  Each  summer  the  Old  Town  Indians  present  an  historical  pageant. 
They  commonly  dress  in  conventional  costume  and  speak  English,  own 
their  homes  and  radios,  drive  automobiles,  and  indeed  are  indistinguish- 
able from  thek  white  neighbors.  They  are,  however,  taught  to  speak  their 
native  language  at  an  early  age,  and  much  is  being  done  among  them  to 
preserve  their  native  traditions  and  arts. 

For  most  of  them,  no  great  effort  is  required  to  make  a  living,  since  each 
family  has  an  inherited  income  from  funds  held  in  trust  for  them.  In  1786, 
a  treaty  confirmed  to  the  Indians  certain  lands  as  well  as  liberal  gifts. 
These  lands  were  sold  at  various  times  to  Massachusetts  and  to  Maine 
for  considerable  sums,  to  be  held  for  the  Indians  and  their  descendants. 
In  1818,  Massachusetts  agreed  to  pay  the  Penobscots  the  following:  one 
six-pounder  cannon,  one  swivel,  fifty  good  knives,  two  hundred  yards  of 
calico,  two  drums,  four  rifles,  one  box  of  pipes,  three  hundred  yards  of 
ribbon;  and  in  October  of  each  year,  'as  long  as  the  Penobscots  shall  re- 
main a  nation,'  to  give  them  five  hundred  bushels  of  corn,  fifteen  barrels  of 
wheat,  seven  barrels  of  clear  pork,  one  hogshead  of  molasses,  one  hundred 
yards  of  double- width  broadcloth  (red  one  year  and  blue  the  next) ,  fifty 
good  blankets,  one  hundred  pounds  of  gunpowder,  six  boxes  of  chocolate, 
one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  tobacco,  and  fifty  dollars  in  silver  —  or 
their  equivalents.  Since  for  many  years  certain  families  did  not  draw 
upon  the  sums  due  them,  among  the  Indians  today  there  must  be  persons 
of  considerable  wealth.  The  average  Indian  takes  up  his  income  in  trade 
at  the  agency  store.  The  Penobscot  tribe  receives  further  compensation 
from  corporations  which  make  use  of  the  Indian  shore  on  the  river  above 
Old  Town;  the  tribe  owns  all  of  the  one  hundred  and  forty-six  islands 
above  Old  Town,  with  a  total  area  of  forty-five  hundred  acres.  The  In- 
dians work  as  river-drivers  and  as  guides  to  hunting  and  fishing  parties,  or 
they  make  baskets  which  they  sell  to  tourists. 

The  Penobscots  are  sometimes  erroneously  called  Tarantines,  a  name 
for  an  earlier  tribe  or  group  of  tribes.  The  Puritans  called  the  Abnaki 
'Tarrateens.'  Among  the  Penobscots  today  live  descendants  of  Baron  de 
Castin,  who  married  the  daughter  of  Chief  Madockowando  'of  the 


26  Maine :  The  General  Background 

Tarantines,'  but  the  latter  was  an  Etchimin  and  not  a  Penobscot.  It  may 
be  that  the  Pentagoets  of  Castine,  the  remnants  of  the  so-called  Tarantines 
of  de  Castin,  have  moved  to  Old  Town  and  joined  with  the  Penobscots. 
There  was  once  a  clan  or  totem  system  among  the  tribes,  but  it  is  now 
largely  obliterated.  The  Bear  Clan,  one  of  the  largest  groups,  still  has  its 
representatives  among  both  Passamaquoddies  and  Penobscots,  who  say 
the  clan  originated  with  a  lost  child  who  was  brought  up  by  a  mother  bear. 
Joseph  Polis,  the  Penobscot  Indian  who  served  as  Thoreau's  guide  in  the 
Maine  woods,  used  a  drawing  of  a  bear  on  his  canoe  as  a  personal  emblem. 
Old  Governor  Neptune,  the  Penobscot  descendant  of  a  long  line  of  chiefs 
and  governors,  used  the  sign  of  the  snake,  signifying  mental  prowess. 

The  office  of  chief  or  governor  (president,  sachem,  or  sagamore)  was 
formerly  held  for  life,  but  in  1862  it  became  annually  elective.  Even  so, 
the  same  man  often  held  the  position  through  life,  and  from  him  it  might 
pass  to  his  son  —  as  in  the  Attean  family.  Dissension  at  the  elections  gave 
rise  to  the  '  Old  Party '  and  '  New  Party,'  which  now  take  turns  in  electing 
officers  each  year.  One  of  the  most  famous  governors  was  Joseph  Orono, 
for  whom  the  town  of  Orono  was  named  —  a  blue-eyed  Indian  believed  to 
be  a  natural  son  of  the  Baron  de  Castin.  He  is  said  to  have  saved  Maine 
for  the  Union  by  rallying  his  men  to  the  aid  of  the  whites  in  the  wars  with 
the  Mohawks.  He  died  in  1801,  at  the  reputed  age  of  one  hundred  and 
thirteen.  Another  Indian  equally  revered  was  the  saintly  Aspinquid,  one 
of  John  Eliot's  converts  who  did  much  toward  spreading  Christianity  and 
peace  among  the  New  England  tribes.  It  was  the  Abnaki,  indeed,  who 
of  the  North  American  Indians  first  embraced  Christianity.  In  the  past, 
Saint  Aspinquid's  grave-marker  could  be  found,  high  on  Mount  Agamen- 
ticus;  it  bore  this  inscription: 

Present  Useful:  Absent  Wanted: 
Lived  Desired:  Died  Lamented. 

The  Indians  no  longer  practice  the  old  crafts  of  making  fish-nets,  spears, 
bows  and  arrows,  wampum,  carved  pipes,  and  pottery;  and  such  things  as 
canoes,  snowshoes,  and  moccasins,  formerly  produced  by  them,  are  now 
more  efficiently  turned  out  in  large  factories.  But  the  Penobscots  still 
excel  in  basket-making.  The  Passamaquoddies  also  make  baskets,  but  are 
more  expert  as  fishermen  and  hunters.  Baskets  are  usually  made  from  the 
flexible  wood  of  the  brown  ash,  although  basswood  and  sweetgrass  are  also 
used.  With  the  Penobscot  women,  sewing  is  a  fine  art;  but  weaving  seems 
always  to  have  been  unknown  to  them.  Lovely  designs  are  made  by 
threading  dyed  quills  upon  cloth  or  leather.  Some  striking  examples  of 
Indian  carving  and  painting  are  occasionally  seen. 


The  Abnaki  Indians  27 


Before  their  movements  were  restricted  by  white  settlers,  the  Indians 
used  to  wander  with  the  seasons,  according  to  the  location  of  food  sup- 
plies. In  the  spring  they  went  to  the  rivers  for  alewives,  shad,  and  salmon; 
on  the  banks  they  planted  corn,  squash,  beans,  and  other  vegetables.  In 
June  they  went  to  the  sea  for  porpoise  and  seal  in  order  to  get  oil  and  skins, 
and  for  the  eggs  and  nestlings  of  sea  birds;  they  dried  clams  and  lobsters, 
and  stored  them  for  winter  use.  In  September  they  returned  to  the  river 
valleys  to  harvest  their  crops,  and  in  October  they  went  into  the  big 
woods  to  hunt.  Before  Christmas  they  held  their  annual  thanksgiving 
feast  for  not  less  than  two  weeks.  Our  national  Thanksgiving  Day  is  a 
direct  imitation  of  the  Indian  festival,  even  to  the  kinds  of  food  served  — 
turkey,  cranberries,  Indian  pudding.  When  snow  came  they  went  into 
the  deep  woods  hunting  for  moose  and  setting  traps.  Before  the  ice  broke 
up  in  March  or  April  they  had  made  their  spring  catch  of  otter  and  beaver. 
When  the  ice  broke  and  the  river  was  clear  they  were  ready  for  the  catch- 
ing of  muskrat;  they  could  start  out  in  their  canoes  to  fish  and  to  go  to  the 
lower  valleys  for  the  planting. 

Throughout  Maine,  the  scene  has  actually  changed  but  little  since  the 
time  of  the  Indians'  supremacy.  Today,  in  the  great  woods  or  by  the 
lonely  shore,  one  can  see  them  in  the  mind's  eye,  a  people  historically 
great  neither  in  numbers  nor  in  deeds,  but  industrious,  loyal,  and  generous. 


HISTORY 


THE  ancient  Norse  sagas  tell  of  the  voyages  of  Eric  the  Red  and  those 
of  his  son,  Leif  the  Lucky,  and  how  Eric,  banished  from  Norway  in  A.D. 
981,  sailed  westward  and  came  to  a  fabulous  'green'  land  across  the  sea. 
Eric  got  no  farther  than  Greenland;  but  Leif,  in  A.D.  1000,  reached  the 
mainland,  the  coast  of  which  he  followed  southward  to  a  place  he  called 
Vinland,  from  the  abundance  of  grapes  he  found  there.  This,  it  is  believed, 
was  Mount  Hope  Bay  in  Rhode  Island.  In  1003,  1006,  1007,  and  ion, 
it  is  believed,  other  Norse  navigators  reached  the  shores  of  what  is  now 
called  New  England.  These  early  rovers  must  have  been  the  first  Euro- 
peans to  explore  the  coast  of  that  region,  and,  therefore,  they  would  have 
been  the  first  to  sail  along  the  coast  of  Maine. 

Nearly  five  hundred  years  passed  before  white  men  again  came  to  the 
New  World.  In  1496,  the  Cabots  —  John  and  his  sons,  Lewis,  Sebastian, 
and  Sancius  —  were  named  in  letters  patent  granted  to  them  by  King 
Henry  VII  of  England  '  to  discover  and  occupy  isles  or  countries  of  the 
heathen  or  infidels  before  unknown  to  Christians,  accounting  to  the  king 
for  a  fifth  part  of  the  profit  upon  their  return  to  the  port  of  Bristol.'  In 
1497-99,  the  Cabots  made  a  number  of  voyages,  the  reports  of  which, 
excepting  the  later  testimony  of  Sebastian  (which  has  been  challenged  by 
authorities  of  the  period),  are  very  meager.  However,  the  records  es- 
tablished beyond  question  that  the  Cabots  did  reach  and  explore  the 
Atlantic  coastline  of  the  North  American  continent.  One  old  Bristol 
record  reads:  'In  the  year  1497,  June  24,  on  St.  John's  Day,  was  New- 
foundland found  by  Bristol  men,  in  a  ship  called  the  "Matthew."  ; 
Again,  one  entry  from  the  privy  purse  expenses  of  Henry  VII  reads: 
'  £10  to  hym  that  found  the  new  isle.'  A  map,  drawn  by  Sebastian  Cabot, 
of  the  Atlantic  coastline  from  60°  to  40°  N.  lat.,  is  preserved.  It  is  obvious, 
therefore,  that  the  Cabot  expeditions  explored  southward  along  the  Maine 
coast,  and  if  the  reports  of  Sebastian  Cabot's  conversation  with  Butringa- 
rius,  the  Pope's  legate,  be  true,  he  went  as  far  as  the  Carolinas.  At  all 
events,  it  was  upon  the  Cabot  discoveries  that  England  in  the  seventeenth 
century  based  its  claim  to  North  America. 

But  England  did  not  follow  up  the  Cabot  discoveries  immediately,  and 
for  many  years  the  land  was  left  open  to  the  subsequent  exploration  of  the 


History  29 

French.  Giovanni  da  Verrazzano,  an  Italian  navigator  in  the  service  of 
France,  reached  the  Maine  coast  in  1524.  He  was  followed  a  year  later 
by  the  Spaniard,  Gomez.  But  these  two,  like  other  early  explorers,  were 
looking  for  the  gold  and  rich  tropical  lands  of  the  Indies,  and  therefore 
took  no  interest  in  what  they  found  here.  About  1527,  Jean  Allefonsce, 
a  French  master  pilot,  explored  and  described  the  cape  and  river  of 
Norumbega  (probably  the  Penobscot).  Thevet,  a  French  geographer, 
on  a  return  voyage  from  Brazil  to  France  in  1556,  followed  the  North 
American  coast  from  Florida  to  Newfoundland.  But  perhaps  the  first 
white  men  actually  to  tread  Maine  soil  for  any  distance  were  three  English 
sailors,  survivors  in  1568  of  an  unsuccessful  expedition  to  Mexico  led  by 
the  freebooter,  Sir  John  Hawkins.  Put  ashore  from  their  ship  in  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  they  made  their  way  north  and  east,  eventually  reaching 
Maine.  Traveling  up  the  coast  to  the  St.  John  River,  they  encountered 
a  French  trading  vessel,  on  which  they  returned  to  Europe.  One  of  these 
men,  David  Ingram,  wrote  a  highly  colored  account  of  his  adventures, 
in  which  he  tells  of  visiting  the  fabulous  city  of  Norumbega. 

In  1580,  Captain  John  Walker,  sailing  in  the  employ  of  Sir  Humphrey 
Gilbert,  dropped  anchor  in  Penobscot  Bay.  In  1602,  Bartholomew  Gos- 
nold,  in  command  of  the  English  vessel  'Concord,'  reached  Maine's 
southern  shores.  In  1603,  Captain  Martin  Pring,  with  the  vessels  '  Speed- 
well '  and  '  Discoverer,'  entered  Penobscot  Bay,  and  thence  sailed  south- 
ward. 

After  considerable  French  exploration  in  America,  Pierre  du  Guast, 
the  Sieur  de  Monts,  accompanied  by  Samuel  de  Champlain  and  the  Baron 
de  Poutrincourt,  in  1604  established  a  settlement  on  an  island  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  that  Champlain  called  the  St.  Croix.  In  the  fall  of  that 
year,  Champlain  set  forth  to  explore  the  coast  westward,  going  by  the 
great  island  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  Mount  Desert  ('  Isle  des  Monts 
Deserts'),  up  the  Penobscot  River  to  the  site  of  present-day  Bangor,  and 
then  up  the  Kennebec  the  following  summer.  In  1606,  de  Monts  and 
Champlain  sailed  down  the  coast  as  far  as  Cape  Cod,  looking  for  a  more 
satisfactory  site  for  colonization  than  the  St.  Croix  island.  They  found 
nothing,  however,  that  pleased  them  more  than  a  place  across  the  Bay  of 
Fundy  which  they  had  ceded  to  de  Poutrincourt  and  called  Port  Royal. 
De  Monts  accordingly  moved  his  colony  there  and  returned  to  France. 

In  1605,  Captain  George  Waymouth  visited  Monhegan  and  explored 
the  coast.  He  secured  valuable  information  about  the  country  and  as- 
sistance for  future  colonization  by  kidnaping  five  Indians,  whom  he  took 
back  to  England.  To  this  crime,  subsequent  Indian  hostility  to  white  men 


30  Maine:  The  General  Background 

on  the  Maine  coast  may  be  attributed.  In  1606,  James  I  granted  a  charter 
to  the  Plymouth  Company  for  the  lands  lying  between  the  4ist  and  45th 
parallels;  and  in  1607,  the  Popham  Colony,  called  St.  George,  was  set  up 
on  Sagadahoc  Peninsula  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec,  where  the  village 
of  Popham  now  stands.  Although  unsuccessful,  this  was  the  beginning  of 
British  colonization  in  New  England.  Before  very  long,  many  English 
settlers  had  established  themselves  along  these  rugged  shores.  The  first 
Dutch  came  to  Maine  in  1609,  when  Henry  Hudson,  commissioned  by  the 
Netherlands  to  search  for  a  northwest  passage  to  the  Indies,  hove  to  in 
Casco  Bay,  to  repair  his  storm-battered  vessel,  the  'Half -Moon.'  The 
Maine  Indians  received  him  kindly,  but  Hudson  requited  their  hospitality 
by  robbing  them  of  much  of  their  supplies.  So  fierce  was  their  resentment 
that  Hudson  was  forced  to  put  from  shore.  He  sailed  southward  and 
eventually  came  into  New  York  waters,  ascending  the  North  (Hudson) 
River  until  he  was  sure  it  was  not  an  'arm  of  the  sea.' 

Soon  the  French  were  sending  missionaries  to  the  new  world.  In  1611, 
Father  Pierre  Biard  founded  an  Indian  Mission  on  the  Penobscot,  ancestor 
of  the  present  Indian  church  at  Old  town.  In  1613,  a  Jesuit  colony  was 
established  on  Mount  Desert  Island,  only  to  be  dispersed  shortly  by  the 
crew  of  an  English  vessel  commanded  by  Captain  Samuel  Argall,  who 
had  come  from  Virginia  ostensibly  for  a  supply  of  fish.  At  the  mission  on 
Mount  Desert,  Fathers  Biard  and  Masse  had  established  the  first  mon- 
astery east  of  California  in  what  is  now  the  United  States.  In  spite  of 
active  English  hostility,  the  French  continued  to  set  up  scattered  settle- 
ments, notably  on  the  Penobscot  and  St.  Croix  Rivers  and  at  Machias. 
But  these  settlements  did  not  prosper.  Most  of  the  immigrants  of  this 
period  were  unenterprising  and  ignorant,  or  they  were  French  gentlemen 
in  search  of  gold  or  glory  and  with  no  desire  to  build  homes  in  a  new  world. 
The  chief  interest  in  America  on  the  part  of  the  French  was  always  the 
opportunity  for  trade  in  furs  with  the  savages. 

Captain  John  Smith  arrived  at  Monhegan  from  England  in  1614.  Ex- 
ploring the  coast  from  the  Penobscot  to  Cape  Cod,  he  made  a  map  of  the 
territory,  which  he  called  New  England.  On  November  3,  1620,  a  new 
charter,  known  as  the  'Great  Patent/  was  granted  to  the  Plymouth 
Company  under  a  changed  corporate  name,  'The  Council  for  Plymouth,' 
otherwise  called  'The  Council  for  New  England.'  It  made  the  company 
'absolute  owners  of  a  domain  containing  more  than  a  million  square 
miles,'  between  40°  and  48°  N.  lat.,  which  was  to  be  called  New  England. 
From  this  company  the  Pilgrims  derived  their  patent  to  the  Plymouth 
Colony. 


History  31 

The  Pilgrims,  arriving  in  America  in  1620,  reported  a  thriving  fishing 
and  trading  post  at  Pemaquid.  There  were  probably  trading  settlements 
at  both  Pemaquid  and  Monhegan  from  the  beginning  of  the  century,  but 
Father  Biard  wrote  that  the  Indians  had  driven  the  English  out  of 
Pemaquid  in  1608-09.  In  1622,  the  Council  for  New  England  gave  to 
Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges  and  Captain  John  Mason  the  land  between  the 
Merrimac  and  the  Kennebec,  which,  the  indenture  stated,  '  they  intend 
to  call  The  Province  of  Maine.'  Permanent  settlements  were  established 
—  Monhegan  in  1622,  Saco  in  1623,  and  York  (as  Agamenticus)  about 
1624.  All  the  early  settlements  were  easily  accessible  to  shipping,  and 
they  grew  rapidly. 

In  1629,  Mason  and  Gorges  divided  their  province  between  them,  with 
the  Piscataqua  River  as  middle  boundary.  Mason's  land  was  called  New 
Hampshire,  Gorges's  New  Somersetshire.  Mason  died  in  London  in  1635, 
and  Gorges,  who  had  become  governor-general  of  all  New  England  in  the 
same  year,  when  the  Plymouth  (England)  Council  surrendered  its  patent, 
was  in  1639  granted  from  King  Charles  I  a  charter  to  the  territory  between 
the  Piscataqua  and  Kennebec  Rivers,  extending  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles  north  and  south.  The  charter  specified  that  the  tract  should  *  forever 
be  called  the  Province  and  Countie  of  Maine  and  not  by  any  other  name 
whatsoever.'  The  political  status  of  the  'Province'  was  that  of  a  palati- 
nate, of  which  Gorges  was  lord  palatine,  a  vassal  enjoying  royal  privileges. 
Thus  Maine  was  for  a  time  under  purely  feudal  tenure.  Gorges  appointed 
a  council  of  seven  colonists  to  administer  the  province  and  act  as  court. 
This  body  superseded  the  judicial  court  established  March  28,  1636,  by 
William  Gorges,  Sir  Ferdinando's  nephew,  for  a  short  time  governor  of 
New  Somersetshire.  In  1640,  under  Thomas  Gorges,  Sir  Ferdinando's 
son,  sent  over  to  Maine  as  his  deputy,  the  first  recorded  body  representa- 
tive of  the  people  in  a  permanent  Maine  settlement  met  at  Saco,  in  a  court 
having  both  legislative  and  judicial  functions  for  the  1400  whites  west  of 
the  Penobscot  River. 

In  1630,  the  Plymouth  Council,  among  other  dispensations  of  New 
England  lands,  granted  a  large  tract  of  territory  in  Maine  to  John  Beau- 
champ  of  London  and  Thomas  Leverett,  a  Boston  merchant.  This  grant, 
comprising  about  a  million  acres,  was  called  the  Muscongus  Patent. 
Eighty-nine  years  later,  Samuel  Waldo  was  given  half  the  grant  'for 
services  rendered.'  Eventually  he  bought  the  other  half,  and  the  grant 
became  known  as  the  Waldo  Patent.  In  1753,  Waldo  imported  a  party  of 
immigrants  from  Germany,  who  founded  a  large  and  prosperous  settle- 
ment, the  present  Waldoboro.  The  initials  'N.W.P.,'  occasionally  found 
in  modern  deeds  and  titles,  signify  'North  of  Waldo  Patent.' 


32  Maine:  The  General  Background 

French  trading  continued  in  the  land  east  of  the  Penobscot,  and  the 
English  trading  posts  at  Machias  and  Penobscot  were  seized  by  the 
French  in  1634  and  1635.  But  the  region  from  Penobscot  to  Port  Royal 
was  finally  subdued  in  1654  by  the  English  under  Major  Sedgwick;  and 
in  1635  the  whole  of  the  Acadian  province  was  confirmed  to  the  English, 
who  held  it  for  thirteen  years.  Nevertheless,  French  missionary  activities 
among  the  Indians  were  continued  in  Maine,  chiefly  by  the  Jesuits,  but 
also  by  the  Franciscans  and  Dominicans.  In  1646,  Father  Gabriel  Druil- 
lettes,  accompanied  by  Indian  converts,  entered  the  Norridgewock  terri- 
tory —  the  first  white  man  to  travel  down  the  Kennebec  to  the  ocean  from 
the  north.  The  trail  he  blazed  was  followed  by  Fathers  Aubry  and  Loyard, 
the  Bigots,  and  Father  Rasle,  who  in  turn  succeeded  him  at  his  post,  the 
most  important  seat  of  missionary  work  in  Maine. 

In  the  meantime,  the  settlement  originally  called  Agamenticus  was 
endowed  with  a  city  charter  in  1642  under  the  name  of  Gorgeana.  In 
1652,  it  was  reorganized  as  a  town,  and  its  name  changed  to  York.  The 
first  town  in 'Maine  was  Kittery,  organized  in  1647.  From  the  beginning, 
each  settlement  ordered  its  own  affairs,  local  government  being  far  more 
important  than  central.  The  courts  were  informal,  deriving  their  author- 
ity from  the  general  consent  of  the  colonists. 

In  1643,  the  four  New  England  Colonies  had  formed  an  alliance  for 
mutual  defense,  excluding  therefrom  the  Gorges  settlements.  After  the 
death  of  Gorges  in  1647,  the  inhabitants  of  Kittery,  Gorgeana  (later 
York),  Wells,  Cape  Porpoise  (now  Kennebunkport),  Saco,  Casco  (now 
Portland),  and  Scarborough  formed  themselves  into  a  body  politic, 
experimenting  with  self-rule ;  but,  soon  realizing  the  importance  of  a  strong 
and  settled  government,  they  became  freemen  of  Massachusetts  in  1652 
on  liberal  terms.  They  sent  representatives  to  the  Massachusetts  General 
Court  (1653),  suffered  no  requirement  of  church  membership  or  tithe, 
and  paid  only  town  and  county  taxes  (the  southern  section  of  the  Province 
of  Maine  became  in  1658  the  separate  and  autonomous  County  of  York- 
shire). By  this  time  the  democratic  form  of  government  based  on  the 
town  meeting  was  already  assured  and  strong  throughout  New  England. 

Upon  the  restoration  of  Charles  II  to  the  English  throne  in  1660, 
Ferdinando  Gorges,  a  grandson  of  Sir  Ferdinando,  claimed  Maine  as  his 
property.  Four  years  later,  a  royal  order  bade  Massachusetts  restore 
the  Province  to  him.  The  investigating  commissioners  set  up  a  govern- 
ment in  the  Province,  but  they  were  shortly  recalled;  and  in  1668,  Massa- 
chusetts assumed  control.  A  clear  title  was  finally  secured  when  the 
Gorges  rights  were  sold  to  an  agent  for  Massachusetts,  May  6,  1677. 


History  33 

The  territory  (known  variously  as  Sagadahoc  and  New  Castle)  from 
Pemaquid  to  the  St.  Croix  was  granted  to  the  Duke  of  York  in  1664, 
together  with  the  New  Netherland.  As  the  County  of  Cornwall  it  retained 
a  slight  connection  with  New  York;  in  1674,  both  Colonies  were  united 
under  the  rule  of  Sir  Edmund  Andros.  Yet  a  supplementary  article  added 
to  the  Treaty  of  Breda,  by  which  in  1667  Charles  II  ceded  Nova  Scotia 
to  France,  surrendered  the  whole  of  Acadia  to  France  and  especially 
mentioned  '  Pentogoet '  or  Penobscot.  On  this  basis,  France  laid  claim  to 
all  of  the  Province  of  Maine  east  of  the  Penobscot.  The  Baron  de  St. 
Castin  soon  established  himself  in  this  region,  and  for  more  than  thirty 
years  protected  French  (and  his  own)  interests  and  traded  with  both 
Indians  and  English.  In  1673,  the  Dutch  captured  and  held  the  French 
fortifications  at  Penobscot,  the  Dutch  West  Indies  Company  in  1676 
appointing  a  governor  for  the  conquered  territory;  but  they  were  shortly 
driven  out  by  the  English.  In  1688,  Governor  Andros  seized  Penobscot 
again,  and  sacked  the  house  of  Baron  de  Castin.  This  event  marked  the 
beginning  of  the  rapid  decline  of  French  influence  in  Maine.  The  Gover- 
nor of  Canada,  it  is  true,  continued  in  large  measure  to  control  the  Indians 
through  the  agency  of  the  Jesuit  missionaries,  of  whom  Father  Sebastian 
Rasle  came  to  be  the  best  known.  The  latter's  interest  in  the  temporal 
welfare  of  his  Indian  flock  led  to  his  death  at  the  hands  of  the  English 
in  1724,  during  the  sack  of  Norridgewock,  where  he  had  taught  since 
1691. 

After  1730,  the  Indians  had  no  regular  priests;  and  when  in  1763 
France  finally  surrendered  Canada,  the  Catholic  missions  were  badly 
hurt,  for,  while  the  English  Government  guaranteed  religious  freedom,  it 
was  taking  quiet  steps  to  rid  Maine  and  Canada  of  the  Jesuit  influence. 
The  last  mission  in  Maine  had  disappeared  by  the  time  of  the  Revolu- 
tionary War.  After  the  work  of  Father  Cheverus  and  Father  Romagne 
(1797-1818),  however,  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  gained  strength  in 
Maine,  and  has  not  ceased  to  prosper  since. 

The  French  were  consistently  successful  in  their  dealings  with  most  of 
the  eastern  Indians.  The  Iroquois  nation,  always  hostile  to  them,  was  an 
important  exception,  but  that  federation  had  little  influence  in  Maine. 
The  French  sought  trade  rather  than  settlement,  and  unlike  the  English 
they  made  no  attempt  to  dispossess  the  natives  of  their  ancestral  lands; 
while  the  French  Catholic  missionaries  worked  continually  with  great 
self-sacrifice  and  altruism  in  behalf  of  the  Indians,  many  of  whom  became 
Christian  converts.  The  natives  naturally  responded  to  the  better  treat- 
ment the  French  offered  them. 


34  Maine :  The  General  Background 

In  1672,  a  new  survey  of  the  northern  boundary  of  Massachusetts  had 
extended  the  Colony  beyond  the  Kennebec  to  Penobscot  Bay,  and  after 
two  years  this  region  was  organized  as  the  County  of  Devonshire.  At  this 
time  there  were  nearly  six  thousand  inhabitants  between  the  Piscataqua 
and  the  Penobscot,  and  at  least  one  hundred  and  fifty  families  east  of  the 
Kennebec. 

In  1675,  King  Philip's  War  burst  upon  the  startled  colonists.  It  was 
seventy  years  from  the  time  that  Waymouth  kidnaped  his  Indians  before 
active  warfare  resulted  from  the  almost  continual  aggression  and  treaty- 
breaking  on  the  part  of  the  whites.  Yet  in  the  following  eighty-five  years 
of  sudden  savage  raids  and  skirmishes  there  were  few  inhuman  bar- 
barities aside  from  the  custom  of  scalping  which  was  practiced  by  both 
sides.  Most  of  the  Maine  Indians  had  become  Christians,  and  were 
influenced  by  the  Church. 

Saco  was  attacked  on  September  18, 1675.  Two  days  later,  Scarborough 
was  burned  and  the  inhabitants  of  Casco  driven  out  or  cut  down,  the 
survivors  taking  refuge  on  the  outer  islands  of  Casco  Bay.  The  settle- 
ments at  Arrowsic  and  Pemaquid  were  burned,  and  during  the  next 
summer  the  Indians  even  penetrated  to  Jewell  Island,  the  farthest  out- 
post of  the  bay,  where  the  beleaguered  colonists  had  barricaded  them- 
selves. The  burning  and  sacking  continued  ruthlessly,  until  a  commission 
from  the  Massachusetts  Government  negotiated  peace  with  the  Indians 
of  the  Androscoggin  and  the  Kennebec  at  Casco  on  April  12,  1678. 

When  peace  was  attained,  Massachusetts  provided  a  government  for 
the  Province,  the  Council  in  1680  appointing  Thomas  Danforth  'Presi- 
dent of  Maine '  to  serve  for  one  year  and  councilors  to  serve  until  removed; 
Maine  towns  were  annually  to  elect  a  House  of  Deputies.  After  the 
Massachusetts  charter  was  revoked  in  1685,  the  Colonies  were  governed 
directly  by  the  Crown  until  1688,  when  New  England,  together  with  New 
York  and  New  Jersey,  came  under  the  single  administration  of  Andros. 
James  II  in  1686  appointed  Joseph  Dudley  royal  deputy;  later  in  the 
same  year,  Dudley  was  superseded  by  Andros.  In  April,  1688,  Andros 
attacked  Penobscot  and  sacked  the  stronghold  of  Baron  de  Castin,  thus 
precipitating  the  French  and  Indian  conflict  with  the  English  of  Maine 
and  Massachusetts  that  is  known  as  King  William's  War.  The  first  out- 
break occurred  in  August,  1688,  when  Indians  attacked  the  North  Yar- 
mouth settlement.  The  fighting  continued  sporadically  throughout  the 
following  winter;  but  the  Maine  colonists,  aroused  by  the  unwise  measures 
taken  by  Governor  Andros  against  the  Indians  and  chafing  under  his 
arrogant  rule,  joined  with  the  people  of  Massachusetts  in  taking  independ- 


History  35 

ent  control  of  the  government,  news  having  reached  New  England  of  the 
landing  of  William  of  Orange  in  England  and  of  the  flight  of  King  James. 
Massachusetts  appointed  Simon  Bradstreet  as  its  Governor,  and  Maine 
restored  Danforth  as  Provincial  President  on  April  18,  1689. 

The  French  and  their  Indian  allies  actively  continued  the  war  with  the 
English.  The  garrison  at  Pemaquid  surrendered  on  August  2,  1689.  In 
1690,  Newichawannock  (now  Salmon  Falls)  was  destroyed,  and  Fort 
Loyal  at  Falmouth  (formerly  Casco)  was  razed  by  Baron  de  Castin  with 
five  hundred  French  and  Indians  from  Canada,  who  took  many  of  the 
inhabitants,  most  of  them  women  and  children,  back  to  Quebec  as  pris- 
oners. Sir  William  Phips  in  1690  carried  the  war  to  the  French  in  Nova 
Scotia,  captured  Port  Royal,  and  took  possession  of  the  entire  coast  to 
Penobscot.  But  a  campaign  against  Quebec  failed;  and  the  capture  by 
the  French  of  Fort  William  Henry  at  Pemaquid, '  the  most  expensive  and 
the  strongest  fortification  that  had  ever  been  built  by  the  English  on 
American  soil,'  still  further  increased  French  prestige  with  the  Maine 
Indians.  By  the  autumn  of  1691,  only  four  towns,  Wells,  York,  Kittery, 
and  Appledore,  remained  inhabited,  Falmouth  and  other  leading  settle- 
ments having  been  almost  totally  destroyed.  The  fighting  continued 
intermittently  until  1697;  then,  under  the  Treaty  of  Ryswick,  the  French 
claimed  all  of  eastern  Sagadahoc  as  part  of  Nova  Scotia. 

Massachusetts'  second  charter,  that  of  1691,  conferred  fewer  powers 
than  had  been  granted  by  the  old  charter.  The  first  royal  governor  was 
Sir  William  Phips,  a  native  of  Maine  and  perhaps  the  first  of  America's 
prominent  self-made  men.  Until  this  time,  Maine  had  been  constantly 
beset  by  political  changes  and  internal  revolutions,  owing  to  the  succes- 
sion of  claimants  and  the  zeal  of  the  competitors  for  its  land.  The  districts 
east  of  the  Kennebec  had  suffered  particularly  in  vicissitudes  of  ownership 
and  government.  With  each  part  separated  from  and  giving  no  aid  to 
the  others,  the  Province  offered  few  inducements  to  settlers.  The  terri- 
tory remained  a  sort  of  buffer  province,  subject  to  continual  attack  from 
Indians  and  French.  But  under  the  administration  of  Phips,  the  conten- 
tion of  royalist  and  republican  partisans  for  proprietorship  and  govern- 
ment ceased.  Town  government  in  Maine  now  took  the  same  form  as  that 
in  the  rest  of  New  England,  the  county  continuing  to  be  useful  as  an  inter- 
mediate organization  for  judicial  purposes.  Each  county  had  a  court 
consisting  of  a  resident  magistrate  or  a  commissioner  and  four  associ- 
ates chosen  by  the  freemen  of  the  county  and  approved  by  the  General 
Court. 

During  the  contest  over  acceptance  of  the  Massachusetts  charter  in 


36  Maine:  The  General  Background 

1691,  there  had  originated  the  political  parties  of  Republicans  and  Loyal- 
ists. Though  they  eventually  assumed  new  names,  their  general  policies 
continued  to  the  Revolution,  the  Republicans  or  *  liberty  men'  adhering 
to  the  democratic  principles  in  the  old  charter,  and  the  Loyalists  or 
'prerogative  men'  professing  to  be  more  loyal  subjects  of  the  King  and 
accordingly  enjoying  more  of  his  favor. 

For  a  long  time  the  Province  of  Maine  had  been  poor  and  weak,  suffer- 
ing greatly  in  the  wars  with  the  French  and  Indians.  Obedience  to  the 
laws  of  Massachusetts  was  rendered  unwillingly  until  the  resettlement  of 
the  Colonies  after  King  Philip's  War,  and  the  Province  was  early  a  resort 
for  those  with  but  small  regard  for  creed  or  church.  The  settlers  continued 
to  aggravate  the  ill-will  of  the  Indians;  and  the  latter,  greatly  reduced  in 
numbers  by  continual  epidemics  dating  from  the  first  coming  of  the  white 
men,  now  began  to  see  that  they  must  fight  for  their  very  existence  as  well 
as  for  their  lands.  The  colonists  generally  failed  to  discriminate  between 
members  of  different  tribes;  an  Indian  was  an  Indian,  and  a  good  Indian 
was  a  dead  one.  The  innocent  were  constantly  being  killed.  Many  were 
sold  into  slavery  for  the  crimes  of  others,  their  women  ravished,  their 
homes  destroyed.  Queen  Anne's  War,  beginning  in  Maine  in  1703  with 
attacks  on  Casco  Bay  colonies  and  lasting  to  1713,  caused  great  damage, 
but  it  broke  forever  the  main  force  of  Indian  strength  and  importance. 

Although  English  advance  into  the  interior  of  Maine  was  slow,  since 
the  French  claimed  all  land  east  of  the  Penobscot,  by  1722  it  had  made 
considerable  headway.  The  British  were  sometimes  aided  by  Indians  of 
the  forest  lands,  who  joined  them  to  fight  their  hereditary  enemies  of  the 
coast  and  the  east.  In  1729,  David  D unbar  was  granted  royal  sanction 
to  settle  and  govern  the  'Province  of  Sagadahoc.'  His  arbitrary  acts, 
however,  resulted  in  his  removal  from  office  in  1733,  Massachusetts 
thereupon  resuming  jurisdiction. 

In  1739,  the  King  in  council  fixed  the  line  between  Maine  and  New 
Hampshire  to  'pass  through  the  entrance  of  Piscataqua  Harbor  and  the 
middle  of  the  river  to  the  farthermost  head  of  Salmon  Falls  River,  thence 
north  2°;  west,  true  course,  120  miles.'  York  and  Falmouth  (Portland) 
were  now  the  principal  towns  in  Maine,  the  former  the  political  cen- 
ter, the  latter  the  commercial  center.  Economic  prosperity  was  grow- 
ing; by  1743  there  were  12,000  people  in  the  Province.  The  Reverend 
George  Whitefield,  the  famous  Calvinist  preacher,  came  to  Maine  with  his 
wife  in  1741  and  again  in  1744,  where  he  preached  at  York,  Wells,  and 
Biddeford. 

War  between  England  and  France  broke  out  again  in  1744,  bringing 


History  37 

the  fifth  Indian  war  to  Maine,  with  attacks  on  Fort  St.  George  and  Dam- 
ariscotta  in  the  summer  of  1745.  A  Massachusetts  army  aided  by  an 
English  fleet  won  the  most  conspicuous  success  of  the  war,  the  capture  of 
Louisburg  at  Cape  Breton  in  1745.  Edward  Tyng  of  Falmouth  com- 
manded the  squadron  co-operating  with  the  English  fleet,  while  William 
Pepperell  of  Kittery,  for  years  New  England's  most  important  landowner, 
headed  the  land  forces.  Maine,  with  but  one-fourteenth  of  the  total 
population  of  the  Bay  Colony,  was  providing  one-third  of  its  troops. 
Nearly  one- third  of  Maine's  citizen  soldiers  participated  in  the  siege  of 
Louisburg,  the  'Gibraltar  of  the  West,'  the  capture  of  which  resulted  in 
Pepperell's  being  made  a  baronet. 

Newcastle,  the  first  of  the  towns  in  the  territory  of  Sagadahoc  and 
the  twelfth  town  in  Maine,  was  incorporated  in  June,  1753.  In  1755,  the 
Acadians  of  Nova  Scotia,  refusing  to  take  the.  oath  of  allegiance  to  an 
English  sovereign,  were  exiled  and  dispersed  among  the  American  Colo- 
nies. Many  of  them  settled  in  Maine  along  the  St.  John  River. 

With  the  capture  of  Quebec  by  the  British  in  1759  and  the  subsequent 
surrender  of  all  Canada,  peace  was  finally  secured  with  France  and  with 
the  Indians,  and  Indian  warfare  in  Maine  ceased  forever. 

Possession  of  the  Penobscot  country  was  taken  in  July,  1759,  when  Fort 
Pownal  was  built  and  garrisoned.  Peace  was  formally  made  with  the 
remnants  of  the  Indian  tribes  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Pownal  on  April  29, 
1760.  The  creation,  on  June  19,  1760,  of  two  new  counties  —  Cumber- 
land, embracing  that  part  of  Maine  between  the  Saco  and  the  Androscog- 
gin,  and  Lincoln,  whose  jurisdiction  extended  over  that  part  east  of  the 
Androscoggin  —  was  evidence  that  Maine  was  rapidly  increasing  in 
population.  Pittston,  the  fortieth  and  last  town  established  by  the  Gen- 
eral Court  under  the  royal  charter,  was  incorporated  on  February  4, 
1779. 

The  first  indication  of  resistance  in  Maine  to  the  taxes  laid  on  the 
American  Colonies  by  Parliament  was  the  seizure  of  a  quantity  of  tax 
stamps  in  Falmouth  by  a  mob  in  1765.  In  1774,  the  people  of  Falmouth 
in  town  meeting  declared  that  no  power  had  a  right  to  tax  them  without 
their  consent  or  that  of  their  representatives.  Nine  towns  in  Cumberland 
County  sent  delegates  to  a  county  convention  held  at  Falmouth  in 
September,  1774.  The  delegates  advised  'a  firm  and  persevering  opposi- 
tion to  every  design,  dark  or  open,  framed  to  abridge  our  English  liberties.' 
Sheriff  William  Tyng  declared  his  intention  to  obey  the  law  of  the  Prov- 
ince, but  not  that  of  Parliament. 

In  the  Revolution  that  followed,  Maine  suffered  more  than  any  other 


38  Maine :  The  General  Background 

part  of  New  England.  The  services  of  the  Indians  were  enlisted  on  both 
sides,  and  bounties  were  paid  for  white  scalps.  In  1775,  Falmouth  was 
almost  completely  destroyed  by  an  English  fleet,  and  the  country  east  of 
the  Penobscot  was  constantly  subjected  to  harassing  raids  by  enemy  war- 
ships after  the  British  occupation  of  the  Castine  Peninsula  in  1779.  Com- 
munication with  Boston  was  difficult,  and  at  times  impossible.  Food  was 
scarce,  and  illicit  trade  with  Nova  Scotia  subsequently  sprang  up.  Many 
of  Maine's  citizens  were  ready  to  accept  neutrality  or  even  submit  to  the 
enemy. 

But  the  majority  of  the  colonists  were  of  fighting  stock  —  pioneers, 
hunters,  and  trappers,  veterans  of  Indian  wars  and  foreign  sea  battles. 
In  the  first  naval  engagement  of  the  war,  the  citizenry  of  Machias,  with 
no  cannon,  few  small  arms,  and  little  powder,  attacked  a  British  armed 
cutter,  the  'Margaretta,'  and  forced  it  to  surrender.  Had  England  been 
able  to  withdraw  her  troops  and  ships  engaged  in  the  hopeless  task  of 
subjugating  Maine,  and  to  use  them  in  an  offensive  against  the  Con- 
tinentals in  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut,  the  outcome  of  the  war 
might  well  have  been  different.  As  it  was,  Maine  not  only  staved  off 
attack  but  served  as  a  highway  for  the  invasion  of  Canadian  provinces  — 
a  highway  which  Benedict  Arnold  used  in  September,  1775,  on  his  ill- 
starred  march  through  the  wilderness  to  the  Chaudiere  and  on  to  Quebec. 
Maine  bled  itself  white  in  providing  soldiers  for  the  Continental  army; 
more  than  one  thousand  of  them  were  at  Valley  Forge. 

In  1775,  the  Continental  Congress  divided  Massachusetts  into  three 
admiralty  districts,  of  which  the  northerly,  made  up  of  York,  Cumber- 
land, and  Lincoln  Counties,  was  to  be  known  as  the  District  of  Maine. 
At  the  declaration  of  peace  in  1783,  the  St.  Croix  River  became  the 
eastern  boundary  of  this  District,  and  the  Indian  tribes  became  wards  of 
the  State,  no  longer  possessing  any  control  over  the  land.  Immigration 
increased,  and  towns  were  rapidly  incorporated.  The  first  town  estab- 
lished by  the  new  government  was  Bath,  incorporated  in  1781.  In  1784, 
a  land  office  was  opened  at  the  seat  of  government,  and  State  lands  on  the 
navigable  rivers  in  the  District  of  Maine  were  sold  to  soldiers  and  immi- 
grants at  one  dollar  an  acre.  In  1786,  more  than  a  million  acres  of  land 
between  the  Penobscot  and  the  St.  Croix  Rivers  were  disposed  of  by 
lottery,  the  largest  purchaser  being  William  Bingham  of  Philadelphia. 

In  1793,  a  new  political  alignment  resulted  from  a  split  in  the  old  parties 
over  the  French  Revolution  and  basic  principles  of  government.  The 
Federalists  opposed  democracy,  desiring  the  rule  of  the  few  and  conserva- 
tive rich;  the  Republicans  (or  Democrats),  adhering  to  democracy  and 


History  39 

the  town  meeting  method  of  government,  consisted  of  the  poorer  and  more 
radical  elements.  The  District  of  Maine  was  a  Federalist  stronghold  until 
1805,  when  the  party  had  become  greatly  diminished.  The  land  policy 
of  Massachusetts  was  highly  unsatisfactory,  tracts  already  settled  by 
pioneers  having  been  sold  or  granted  to  wealthy  men  or  companies.  Some 
owners  expelled  the  squatters;  some  would  neither  sell  nor  lease;  in  other 
cases  the  ownership  of  the  land  remained  in  dispute  and  no  one  could  give 
a  clear  title.  Feeling  that  the  Massachusetts  legislature  favored  the 
absentee  landlords,  a  majority  of  voters  in  the  District  went  Republican 
during  a  general  democratic  movement  in  1805. 

The  growth  of  population  in  Maine  after  the  Revolution  was  rapid  — 
from  96,540  in  1790  to  151,719  in  1800,  and  228,705  in  1810.  Hancock  and 
Washington  Counties  in  1789  and  Kennebec  in  1799  were  formed  from 
Lincoln  County;  Oxford  was  assembled  from  parts  of  York  and  Cumber- 
land in  1805,  and  Somerset  formed  from  Kennebec  in  1809.  During  this 
period  many  towns  were  incorporated,  including  Portland  in  1786,  built 
on  the  site  of  Falmouth,  which  had  been  destroyed  in  1775;  Bangor  in 
1791;  Augusta  in  1797.  Plantations  were  organized  as  governmental 
units  for  taxing  groups  outside  the  regular  incorporated  areas. 

The  Embargo  Law  of  1807,  forbidding  commercial  intercourse  between 
the  United  States  and  foreign  countries,  checked  the  rising  tide  of  Re- 
publicanism. Various  methods  were  used  to  evade  the  law,  and  Eastport 
became  notorious  as  a  center  for  goods  smuggled  across  the  Canadian 
line.  When  in  1812  the  United  States  declared  war  on  Great  Britain,  a 
strong  anti-war  sentiment  existed  in  Maine,  yet  the  Embargo  Laws  had 
so  hurt  the  shipbuilding  and  fishing  industries  that  there  were  many 
enlistments  for  military  service  from  among  Maine's  unemployed. 

The  attempt  on  England's  part  to  cripple  or  destroy  American  com- 
merce without  striking  a  decisive  blow  at  Maine  would  have  been  hope- 
less, and  British  men-of-war  soon  appeared  along  the  coast.  But  they 
found  it  no  less  difficult  to  prevent  her  shipyards  from  launching  vessels 
and  to  paralyze  her  commerce  than  it  had  been  to  break  the  spirit  of  her 
patriots  during  the  Revolution.  Since  the  District  of  Maine,  according  to 
American  interpretation  of  the  Treaty  of  1783,  so  separated  the  British 
provinces  that  there  was  no  direct  trade  route  between  Halifax  and  Que- 
bec, the  English  sailed  down  and  occupied  the  land  as  far  as  the  Penobscot, 
made  Castine  a  port  of  entry,  and  proclaimed  a  provincial  government 
between  the  Penobscot  and  New  Brunswick.  But  the  peace  treaty  of 
1814  left  the  boundaries  between  the  United  States  and  Canada  as  they 
had  been  before  the  war.  Ownership  of  the  islands  in  Passamaquoddy 


40  Maine :  The  General  Background 

Bay  was  settled  in  1817  by  a  joint  commission,  the  United  States  receiving 
Moose,  Dudley,  and  Frederick  Islands.  Foreign  occupation  ended  in  1815, 
when  the  last  British  troops  left  Maine  soil.  In  1817,  President  Monroe 
visited  Maine  and  inspected  her  fortifications,  but  never  since  have  forti- 
fications been  considered  necessary  on  the  Canadian  border.  It  seemed, 
too,  at  this  time  that  the  United  States  had  little  need  of  warships;  the 
United  States  vessel  'Alabama,'  of  eighty-four  guns,  which  was  laid  down 
at  Kittery,  was  left  unfinished  on  the  stocks  in  1818. 

At  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  the  question  of  separation  of 
Maine  from  Massachusetts  came  up  repeatedly.  Maine's  first  newspaper, 
The  Falmouth  Gazette,  was  devoted  to  the  separation  cause.  The  interests 
of  Maine  and  Massachusetts  were  widely  divergent;  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment was  distant,  and  the  expense  of  justice  great;  trade  regulations  were 
unjust  to  Maine;  many  residents  in  unorganized  districts  were  denied 
representation  in  the  legislature;  the  tax  system  was  unbalanced;  the 
District  was  separated  from  Massachusetts  by  New  Hampshire;  there 
was  a  different  viewpoint  toward  national  politics,  and  a  desire  on  the 
part  of  Maine  to  avoid  the  burden  of  the  State  debt.  But  public  opinion 
was  not  ready  for  separation;  and  the  adoption  of  the  United  States 
Constitution  in  1787  turned  people's  thoughts  in  another  direction. 
Furthermore,  the  Massachusetts  legislature  quickly  passed  acts  benefit- 
ing Maine's  residents.  The  War  of  1812,  however,  and  the  Hartford 
Convention  stimulated  anew  the  separation  movement.  Massachusetts' 
failure  to  aid  in  defending  the  District  during  the  war  had  aroused  great 
bitterness,  and  the  State  was  accused  of  partiality  in  educational  matters. 
A  separate  government  would  be  cheaper.  The  old  objection  that  state- 
hood would  place  a  heavy  burden  on  the  coastal  trade  was  removed  in 
1819,  when  Congress  passed  a  law  permitting  coasters  to  trade  from  the 
St.  Croix  to  Florida  without  entering  and  clearing.  Party  prejudice  was 
less  active;  the  era  of  good  feeling  had  arrived.  Maine  separated  from 
Massachusetts  in  1819  (at  which  time  she  possessed  236  incorporated 
towns),  and  was  admitted  as  a  State  into  the  Union  on  March  15,  1820, 
the  seat  of  government  being  placed  at  Portland. 

In  Maine's  early  years,  the  conversion  of  forest  trees  into  marketable 
lumber  and  of  woodlands  into  fields  for  cultivation  was  the  chief  end  of 
labor.  Wampum,  corn,  fish,  and  other  products  were  mediums  of  ex- 
change, for  real  money  was  scarce.  Fishing  and  the  fur  trade  were  the 
principal  early  industries.  As  the  fur  trade  suffered  a  gradual  decline, 
commerce  with  the  West  Indies  increased.  Lumber  was  exported  there 
in  exchange  for  molasses,  most  of  which  was  made  into  rum,  then  a  popu- 


History  41 

lar  beverage.  Rum,  lumber,  fish,  and  furs  were  exchanged  in  southern 
Colonies  and  abroad  for  the  great  number  of  commodities  which  Maine 
did  not  produce.  There  was  very  little  manufacturing  until  the  embargo 
of  1807,  when  necessity  proved  to  be  the  father  of  industry.  Maine  has, 
of  course,  continued  to  be  a  predominantly  rural  State;  but  even  in  the 
early  nineteenth  century,  farming  was  often  combined  with  fishing, 
lumbering,  boat-building,  and  other  occupations.  The  Betterment  Act 
finally  ended  the  turmoil  over  land  titles;  since  it  required  that  the  de- 
feated litigants  be  reimbursed  for  all  improvements,  there  were  few  law- 
suits over  property  rights.  Timber  continued  from  earliest  days  to  be 
Maine's  most  important  raw  material.  The  first  sawmill  in  the  United 
States  was  built  at  York  in  1623;  the  first  timberland  grant  of  any  im- 
portance was  the  Muscongus  Grant  of  1630,  later  known  as  the  Waldo 
Patent;  Brunswick,  on  the  Androscoggin,  was  one  of  the  earliest  centers 
for  the  lumber  business.  The  forest  regions  of  the  Kennebec  and  the 
Penobscot  soon  began  to  be  exploited,  but  individual  and  private  opera- 
tions were  not  displaced  by  river  driving  and  co-operative  enterprise  until 
after  the  Revolution.  With  the  rise  of  lumbering,  shipbuilding  became 
an  important  industry.  The  first  ship  to  be  built  in  the  New  World  was 
launched  at  the  Popham  Colony  in  1607-08,  and  by  the  middle  of  the 
eighteenth  century  the  industry  was  flourishing. 

In  the  early  days,  travel  in  Maine  was  accomplished  by  boat  or  on  foot. 
Roads  were  only  gradually  developed,  for  horse-drawn  vehicles  were  not 
numerous  until  the  Embargo  stimulated  the  use  of  stagecoaches.  There 
was  little  traveling  in  those  days;  Maine's  people,  a  sturdy  middle  class, 
stayed  at  home  and  worked.  When  not  attending  to  their  crops,  they 
were  shaving  shingles  to  exchange  for  goods  at  the  store,  working  on  high- 
ways or  in  the  woods,  fishing  or  trapping;  the  boys  did  the  chores,  and  the 
women  spun  and  wove  cloth  and  made  the  clothing.  There  were  few 
distinctions  of  rank  or  wealth.  Settlers,  both  French  and  English,  wished 
to  be  allowed  to  live  and  work  as  they  chose,  to  raise  their  large  families 
in  peace. 

There  was  little  law  or  respect  for  law.  Rum  was  the  common  beverage, 
and  spirits  were  consumed  on  all  occasions;  the  tavern  or  public  house  and 
the  church  were  among  the  first  buildings  to  be  erected  in  every  com- 
munity. Maine's  settlers  were  at  first  wholly  liberal  in  their  viewpoint, 
tolerating  and  even  welcoming  newcomers  of  any  creed.  Under  Gorges, 
the  Church  of  England  was  dominant;  then,  with  an  increased  population, 
Congregationalism  and  a  Puritan  movement  spread  over  the  land,  im- 
posing a  rigorous  New  England  code  of  limited  suffrage  (only  freemen, 


42  Maine :  The  General  Background 

that  is,  men  of  property,  could  vote),  compulsory  enlistment  in  the 
militia,  hidebound  conventional  morality,  prosecution  of  heresy  (Baptists, 
Quakers,  and  Jews  were  to  be  persecuted  and  driven  from  the  Colonies), 
prohibition  of  games  and  dancing,  and  strict  regulations  for  public 
houses.  But  the  people  of  Maine  were  not  zealous  in  enforcing  these  laws, 
holding  that  the  keys  of  Church  and  State  need  not  necessarily  be  com- 
mitted exclusively  to  the  hands  of  ministers  and  magistrates.  In  general, 
a  spirit  of  religious  toleration  prevailed,  although  the  church  continued 
always  to  be  the  principal  center  of  intellectual  and  social  life.  Resent- 
ment against  support  of  the  church  by  public  taxation  resulted  in  the  rise 
of  a  variety  of  Protestant  denominations,  notably  the  Baptist  and 
Methodist.  The  State  Constitution  of  1820  provided  that  no  public  funds 
raised  by  taxation  could  be  used  for  denominational  purposes. 

Common  schools  and  orthodox  ministry  went  hand  in  hand,  since  the 
Puritans  considered  a  proper  education  next  in  importance  to  godliness. 
The  Bible  was  the  first  textbook.  Since  1788,  the  State  has  followed  a 
policy  of  using  land  and  timber  wealth  as  a  basis  for  school  aid.  Bowdoin 
College  was  chartered  in  1794,  and  Waterville  (Colby)  College  in  1820. 
Until  1820,  Maine's  public-school  system  was  essentially  that  of  Massa- 
chusetts, and  since  then  it  has  developed  gradually  along  its  original 
lines. 

With  William  King  as  its  first  Governor,  Maine  entered  the  Union  as 
an  anti-Federalist  State  in  1820.  With  its  agricultural  and  seafaring 
population,  it  was  naturally  a  democratic  State.  Its  growth  was  rapid; 
the  population  increased  from  228,705  in  1810  to  501,793  in  1840.  The 
seat  of  government  was  removed  from  Portland  to  Augusta  in  1832. 
Penobscot  County  had  been  formed  in  1816.  Waldo  County  was  estab- 
lished in  1827,  Androscoggin  and  Sagadahoc  Counties  in  1854,  and  Knox 
County  in  1860. 

Meanwhile,  the  northeastern  boundary  remained  unsettled  and  in 
dispute.  In  1831,  Maine  refused  to  accept  the  compromise  solution  offered 
to  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  by  the  King  of  the  Netherlands. 
Repeated  minor  incidents  led  finally  to  the  danger  of  open  combat  at 
the  boundary;  and  the  State  militia  in  1839  marched  two  hundred  miles 
through  wilderness  and  deep  snow  to  repel  a  threatened  attack  from  New 
Brunswick.  The  mediation  of  General  Winfield  Scott  prevented  armed  , 
conflict,  however,  in  this  '  Aroostook  War.'  He  arranged  for  a  truce  and 
joint  occupation  by  both  parties.  In  1842,  the  Webster-Ashburton 
Treaty  settled  the  fifty-nine-year-old  dispute,  and  lost  for  Maine  about 
5500  miles  of  claimed  territory. 


History  43 

Of  reform  movements  influencing  the  political  scene,  the  least  im- 
portant but  the  first  to  take  shape  was  anti-masonry.  A  temporary  tri- 
umph of  this  movement  nearly  brought  about  the  total  disappearance  of 
freemasonry  in  Maine.  In  1831,  1832,  and  1833,  anti-masonic  candi- 
dates entered  the  elections  for  Governor.  There  was  a  revival  of  the 
movement  in  the  i84o's,  but  the  anti-slavery  agitation  soon  took  its 
place  in  the  public  mind. 

Very  few  Negroes  were  kept  as  slaves  in  Maine  even  in  Colonial  days, 
most  of  the  early  Negroes  being  paid  servants.  There  is  no  record  of  any 
slavery  legislation  in  Maine,  either  as  Province  or  as  State.  However, 
an  anti-slavery  society  was  formed  as  early  as  1833,  and  a  year  later  a 
State  body  was  organized.  Political  fireworks  were  touched  off  as  the 
Abolitionists  and  their  opponents  began  to  appeal  to  public  opinion. 
Feeling  against  the  Abolitionists  was  very  strong  in  the  coastal  towns, 
much  of  whose  prosperity  depended  upon  the  Southern  trade;  but  in  the 
interior  of  the  State  the  anti-slavery  movement,  headed  by  the  clergy, 
was  backed  by  most  persons.  Every  county  had  an  anti-slavery  society, 
and  in  1841  an  anti-slavery  candidate  entered  the  election  for  Governor. 
Since  the  new  movement  worked  largely  through  church  groups,  there 
was  violent  protest  from  both  Whigs  and  Democrats  against  its  entry  into 
politics,  since  they  felt  that  the  Church  should  keep  itself  above  partisan- 
ship. The  result  was  that,  although  the  Whigs  were  more  anti-slavery 
than  the  Democrats,  anti-slavery  men  made  up  a  third  party,  called  at 
first  the  Liberty  Party  and  later  the  Free-Soil  Party.  Between  1850  and 
1855,  party  lines  disintegrated  over  the  prohibition  and  slavery  questions. 
In  1854,  the  Free-Soilers  and  the  anti-slavery  Whigs  united  to  form  the 
Republican  Party,  which  soon  swept  into  power.  The  Kansas  question 
in  all  its  ramifications  proved  disastrous  to  the  Democrats.  Their  failure 
to  take  a  stand  against  the  extension  of  slavery  further  diminished  what 
was  left  of  the  Whigs,  and  the  Abolitionists  increased  rapidly  in  strength. 
The  Democrats  declared  that  the  prosperity  of  the  State  depended  upon 
commerce  which  would  certainly  suffer  if  the  South  were  alienated  by 
a  Republican  triumph;  they  declared  also  that  if  Hannibal  Hamlin,  the 
Republican  candidate  for  Governor,  were  elected,  the  fishing  bounties 
would  be  withdrawn.  Nevertheless,  the  Republicans  acquired  the  seat  of 
power  in  1856,  and  they  held  it  continuously  thereafter  until  1879. 
Hamlin,  after  serving  a  year  as  Governor,  was  elected  to  the  U.S.  Senate; 
and  in  1861,  Vice-President. 

Closely  connected  with  the  anti-slavery  issue  was  the  prohibition 
movement.  At  the  time  of  separation,  almost  everyone  drank  liquor, 


44  Maine:  The  General  Background 

which  was  sold  by  the  most  respectable  citizens;  but  soon  regulations 
against  abuses  were  inaugurated.  As  early  as  1815,  a  total  abstinence 
society  had  been  formed  in  Portland,  and  in  1834,  the  first  convention  of 
temperance  societies  was  held  and  a  State  organization  formed.  A  split 
occurred  on  whether  prohibition  should  be  brought  about  by  legal  action 
or  moral  influence,  and  a  militant  minority  for  legal  action  won.  In  1846, 
a  law  was  passed  forbidding  the  sale  of  spirits  except  for  medicinal  and 
industrial  purposes. 

The  law,  however,  did  not  prove  effective,  or  at  least  it  was  not  well 
enforced,  for  illegal  traffic  in  liquors  at  once  made  its  appearance  in  all 
parts  of  the  State.  A  stricter  law  of  1851  offended  many  temperate 
citizens,  who  felt  that  private  rights  were  being  invaded  by  the  granting 
of  warrants  to  searching  parties.  A  split  in  the  Democratic  Party  over 
this  issue  allowed  a  Whig  Governor  to  be  elected  in  1853.  The  limited  sale 
of  liquor  for  beverage  use  was  allowed  in  an  act  passed  in  1856  under 
Democratic  sponsorship,  but  this  was  attacked  by  the  Republicans  as 
discriminating  against  the  poor.  Another  prohibitory  law  was  therefore 
enacted  in  1858. 

In  the  1850*5,  the  rise  of  the  so-called  American  or  '  Know-No  thing ' 
Party  was  attended  by  anti-Catholic  and  anti-foreign  agitation,  directed 
chiefly  against  the  Irish.  In  1853,  the  Roman  Catholic  See  of  Maine  and 
New  Hampshire  was  constituted,  with  the  Reverend  Daniel  Bacon  as 
Bishop.  At  this  time  there  were  only  eight  priests  in  the  two  States.  A 
hostile  mob  first  desecrated  and  then  burned  the  church  at  Bath.  The 
Reverend  John  Bapst,  refusing  to  obey  the  town  meeting's  order  to  leave 
Ellsworth,  was  tarred  and  feathered  and  ridden  out  of  town  on  a  rail. 
Bath  in  1855,  and  Bangor  in  1856,  refused  to  allow  construction  on  new 
Catholic  church  buildings;  and  the  old  Baptist  church  used  by  the  Catho- 
lics in  Lewiston  was  burned  during  a  riot  there.  At  Bishop  Bacon's 
death  in  1874,  however,  Catholics  residing  in  Maine  numbered  over 
80,000. 

President  Lincoln's  first  call  for  Civil  War  volunteers  met  with  a  quick 
response  in  Maine;  great  public  meetings  were  held,  at  which  support  of 
the  National  Government  was  pledged.  Yet  the  outbreak  of  the  war 
found  Maine  totally  unprepared.  The  old  musters  had  been  abandoned  as 
burdensome  and  useless  occasions  for  drunkenness  and  dissipation.  The 
enrolled  and  unarmed  militia  comprised  about  60,000  men,  and  in  addi- 
tion there  were  a  few  volunteer  companies.  Nevertheless,  Maine  con- 
tributed thirty-two  infantry  regiments,  three  of  cavalry,  and  one  heavy 
artillery  regiment,  seven  batteries  of  field  artillery,  seven  sharpshooter 


History  45 

companies,  thirty  other  companies  of  infantry,  seven  companies  of  coast 
artillery,  and  six  companies  for  coast  fortifications.  In  all,  72,945  Maine 
residents  served  in  the  military  and  naval  forces  of  the  Union;  and  of  these, 
7322  died  in  the  service.  The  State's  war  expenditures  were  about  $7,000,- 
ooo ;  while  those  of  towns  and  individuals  were  more  than  $11,000,000. 
Many  towns,  feeling  they  would  be  shamed  if  they  could  not  fill  their 
quotas  without  a  draft,  bid  wildly  for  recruits  and  accumulated  large 
debts  thereby.  The  State's  commerce  suffered  greatly  from  the  activi- 
ties of  Confederate  cruisers,  and  companies  of  home  guards  were  formed 
to  protect  the  coastal  districts  from  depredations.  Two  prominent  gen- 
erals of  the  Civil  War  were  citizens  of  Maine  —  General  O.  O.  Howard, 
who  distinguished  himself  at  Gettysburg,  and  General  Joshua  L.  Cham- 
berlain, later  president  of  Bowdoin  College  and  Governor  of  Maine. 

After  the  war,  the  prohibition  question  continued  to  be  a  factor  in 
State  politics.  The  statutes  forbidding  the  sale  of  intoxicating  liquors 
were  extended  in  1871  so  as  to  apply  to  wine  and  cider.  Since  the  farmers 
were  accustomed  to  make  these  lighter  beverages  from  native  fruits  and 
berries,  the  Democrats  hoped  to  use  the  law  to  turn  rural  districts  against 
the  Republicans.  But  the  prohibition  and  total  abstinence  movement  was 
continually  growing,  and  the  Democrats  failed  once  more.  It  is  signifi- 
cant, however,  that  the  constitutional  amendment  passed  in  1884  for- 
bidding the  manufacture  of  intoxicating  liquors  exempts  cider  from  its 

list: 

The  growing  tide  of  emigration  from  the  State  assumed  sufficiently 
serious  proportions  in  the  late  i86o's  to  arouse  concern  as  to  Maine's 
future  on  the  part  of  some  of  her  leading  citizens.  Determined  to  make 
a  serious  venture  in  home  colonization,  the  State  legislature  commissioned 
the  Honorable  William  W.  Thomas,  Jr.,  a  former  United  States  Consul  in 
Sweden,  to  go  to  that  country  and  bring  back  a  party  of  settlers.  Thomas 
returned  from  Sweden  in  1870  with  fifty-one  persons,  who  immediately 
set  about  the  development  of  a  tract  set  aside  for  them  by  the  State  and 
given  the  name  of  New  Sweden.  In  less  than  a  year,  the  population  of  the 
district  was  doubled  by  other  Swedes  who  came  of  their  own  accord  to 
join  the  group;  and  by  the  end  of  three  years,  the  original  population  of 
New  Sweden  had  increased  twelve-fold. 

During  the  i87o's,  many  Maine  cities  and  towns  suffered  financially 
from  an  enthusiasm  for  internal  improvements  which  had  been  sweeping 
the  nation  since  1830.  The  result  was  a  constitutional  amendment 
severely  limiting  the  total  debt  which  any  municipality  might  incur. 
A  State  organization  of  the  national  Greenback  Party  was  formed,  and 


46  Maine :  The  General  Background 

nominated  a  candidate  for  Governor  in  1876  and  1877.  So  quickly  did 
the  new  party  win  popular  favor  with  its  stand  against  the  resumption  of 
specie  payments  and  its  plea  for  a  cheap  currency  that  the  gubernatorial 
campaign  of  1878  was  fought  on  this  issue.  The  Greenbackers  were 
especially  strong  in  the  eastern  counties,  the  majority  of  independent 
Democrats  and  many  Republicans  being  drawn  into  the  party.  By  a  great 
oratorical  display,  many  of  the  farmers  were  persuaded  that  they  were 
being  abused  and  plundered  by  the  moneyed  interests;  and  with  their 
aid  the  Democrats,  having  temporarily  formed  an  alliance  with  the  Green- 
backers,  carried  the  State  for  the  first  time  in  many  years. 

The  next  year,  1879,  there  was  no  election  by  popular  vote.  Governor 
Garcelon  and  his  council,  accused  of  manipulating  election  returns  so 
as  to  secure  a  fusion  majority  in  the  legislature,  were  declared  in  error  by 
the  State  Supreme  Court,  and  the  Republicans  seized  the  legislature 
chambers  and  chose  a  governor  from  their  own  ranks.  Although  its 
candidate  won  the  governorship  in  the  next  election,  the  fusion  tide  had 
ebbed;  and  the  State  returned  almost  completely  to  the  Republican  fold. 

Maine  suffered  greatly  in  the  severe  depression  of  the  1 890*3.  The 
Spanish  War  drew  one  infantry  regiment,  four  batteries  of  field  artillery, 
and  a  signal  corps,  besides  many  individual  enlistments  in  the  regular 
army  and  navy,  from  Maine;  and  volunteer  naval  reserve  associations 
were  mustered  for  national  service.  A  Republican  victory  in  1908  on  the 
prohibition  issue  resulted  in  strict  enforcement;  but  in  1910  the  Demo- 
crats won  for  the  first  time  in  thirty-two  years.  Yet  in  1911,  a  proposed 
amendment  to  repeal  the  prohibitory  laws  was  defeated,  though  only  by 
a  very  close  margin.  The  adoption  in  1911  of  a  direct  primary  law  was 
due  mainly  to  a  new  progressive  movement  which  also  placed  on  the 
statute  books  the  initiative  and  referendum  and  a  corrupt  practices  act; 
no  longer  were  'ring'  and  'anti-ring'  to  struggle  for  party  control,  nomi- 
nating conventions  and  picking  political  plums.  In  1911  also,  much 
valuable  social  welfare  legislation  was  enacted. 

Another  Democratic  victory  came  in  1914,  when  there  was  a  division 
in  the  Republican  Party  between  regulars  and  progressives  —  a  phe- 
nomenon to  occur  again  in  1932.  A  consolidation  of  Maine's  leading 
newspapers  in  1921  left  the  State  with  virtually  no  Democratic  press. 
Political  contests  have  become  largely  confined  to  the  Republican  pri- 
maries. 

Following  the  United  States'  entry  into  the  World  War,  more  than 
35,000  Maine  men  joined  the  fighting  services.  A  considerable,  though 
unknown  number  had  already  entered  the  war  as  members  of  Canadian 


History  47 

units.  Nearly  $116,000,000  in  war  loans  and  other  contributions  was 
raised  in  the  State.  National  Guard  units  were  quickly  recruited  to  full 
strength,  and  the  naval  militia  was  mobilized.  Sheriffs  were  authorized 
to  appoint  special  deputies;  the  Governor  was  empowered  to  take  over 
in  the  State's  name  any  land  desirable  for  military  use;  municipalities 
were  required  to  raise  money  to  aid  in  the  support  of  families  of  men  in 
military  service,  the  State  providing  for  reimbursement  of  all  money 
thus  spent;  and  the  organization  of  a  Home  Guard  was  provided  for. 
Maine's  casualties  in  the  war  were  2094;  228  men  were  killed  in  action, 
and  the  deaths  from  all  sources  numbered  1073. 

Toward  the  end  of  the  nineteenth  century,  a  political  awareness  of  the 
importance  of  Maine's  water-power  resources  had  come  into  being.  The 
'power  fight'  started  in  1909  with  a  law  prohibiting  the  export  of  hydro- 
electricity  on  the  theory  that,  if  kept  within  the  State,  the  power  would 
attract  industries  which  otherwise  might  settle  elsewhere.  An  effort  to 
strengthen  this  law  in  1917  divided  the  Republican  Party  into  two  oppos- 
ing camps,  a  split  which  resulted  in  the  fight  for  and  against  the  direct 
primary.  In  the  1 920*3,  the  '  Insull-ization '  of  public  utilities  was  con- 
stantly attacked  by  politicians.  The  controversy  finally  ceased  in  1929, 
when  by  popular  vote  Maine  decided  to  remain  the  only  State  in  which 
chartered  companies  are  forbidden  to  export  hydro-electric  power. 

Though  they  won  the  election  of  1932,  when  Louis  J.  Brann  became 
Maine's  first  Democratic  Governor  in  twenty  years,  and  though  they 
were  again  successful  in  1934,  the  Democrats  have  never  gained  greatly 
in  strength.  The  Republican  Party  returned  to  power  in  the  1936  elec- 
tions. The  great  nation-wide  financial  collapse  in  1929  affected  Maine 
disastrously,  particularly  in  the  rural  districts.  By  a  large  majority  vote 
in  1934,  the  State  repealed  its  historic  prohibition  amendment. 

Today  Maine  is  a  conservative,  but  not  necessarily  a  reactionary, 
State.  Her  people  are  slow  to  change;  they  learned  their  political  faith 
in  the  Civil  War,  and  have  found  no  reason  to  abandon  it.  Few  of  her 
citizens  are  millionaires,  few  are  miserably  poor.  Although  the  number  of 
her  people  of  native  stock  has  remained  virtually  stationary  for  four 
decades,  she  has  contributed  to  the  country  at  large  many  prominent 
citizens  who  were  born  and  raised  here.  Perhaps,  indeed,  one  of  Maine's 
greatest  glories  lies  in  the  number  of  her  gifted  sons  and  daughters  who, 
throughout  the  country's  history,  have  left  their  home  State  to  find 
elsewhere  greater  opportunities  for  their  native  abilities. 


48  Maine :  The  General  Background 


THE  STATE  GOVERNMENT 

Maine's  government  has  not  changed  materially  since  1820.  The  origi- 
nal constitution  grants  wide  powers  to  the  legislature,  definitely  curtails 
those  of  the  Governor  by  creation  of  a  council  of  seven  members  which 
must  approve  nearly  all  executive  actions,  and  limits  the  terms  of  the 
judiciary  to  seven  years.  The  government  is  unusual  in  several  respects. 
The  Governor  is  the  only  executive  official  elected  by  popular  vote 
(Maine  has  the  shortest  ballot  of  any  State);  organized  plantations  are 
retained;  and  Maine  Indians  govern  themselves  as  an  incorporated  re- 
public, sending  non- voting  representatives  to  the  State  legislature. 

Maine's  16  counties  are  important  chiefly  as  judiciary  units.  They  are 
divided  into  20  cities  and  435  towns,  63  organized  plantations,  40  second- 
class  plantations,  376  unorganized  townships,  and  two  government 
reservations  for  Indians. 

State  elections  are  held  biennially,  on  the  second  Monday  in  September 
of  even-number  years.  Since  this  is  nearly  two  months  earlier  than  other 
election  dates  throughout  the  country,  the  result  usually  attracts  nation- 
wide attention,  and  Maine  formerly  was  considered  the  nation's  political 
barometer.  A  plurality  vote  is  necessary  for  election,  although  a  majority 
was  formerly  required.  Maine  has  no  lieutenant  governor,  the  President 
of  the  Senate  succeeding  to  the  governorship  in  case  of  vacancy.  Maine, 
like  Massachusetts,  has  a  strong  Executive  Council  which  severely  limits 
the  powers  of  the  Governor,  who  is  nominated  by  direct  primary  and 
elected  for  a  two-year  term.  The  Council,  with  all  other  State  officials,  is 
elected  biennially  by  a  joint  ballot  of  both  houses  of  the  legislature,  and 
its  members  are  not  necessarily  of  the  same  political  party  as  the  Gover- 
nor. Under  the  Maine  Administration  Code  of  1931,  twenty-five  depart- 
ments and  agencies  were  consolidated  in  five  main  departments,  each 
headed  by  a  commissioner  appointed  by  the  Governor  and  confirmed  by 
the  Council  for  a  term  of  three  years  or  more.  These  departments  are: 
Finance,  Health  and  Welfare,  Education,  Audit,  and  Sea  and  Shore 
Fisheries.  The  constitutional  offices  of  Secretary  of  State,  State  Treas- 
urer, and  Attorney  General  were  not  affected  by  the  Code.  The  system 
of  initiative  and  referendum,  but  not  of  recall,  is  in  force. 

The  State's  judiciary  system  consists  of  a  supreme  court  of  eight  jus- 
tices; superior  courts,  with  jurisdiction  only  within  the  respective  coun- 
ties; probate  and  municipal  courts;  notaries  and  justices  of  the  peace. 


History  49 

All  members  of  the  judiciary  are  appointed  by  the  Governor  and  Council, 
with  the  exception  of  the  probate  judges  and  the  registers,  who  are  elected 
by  popular  vote  in  each  county. 

The  central  government,  according  to  New  England  tradition,  exer- 
cises little  power  over  local  governmental  units,  and  home  rule  is  jealously 
guarded  by  the  municipalities.  The  town  in  New  England  (known  else- 
where as  township)  is  the  important  political  unit.  Since  no  minimum 
population  requirement  for  the  incorporation  of  cities  exists  in  Maine, 
many  of  the  towns  are  larger  than  some  of  the  cities.  The  government  of 
the  town,  through  the  medium  of  the  town  meeting,  is  the  only  existing 
type  of  pure  democracy.  In  recent  years,  owing  largely  to  the  efforts  of 
Dr.  Orren  C.  Hormell,  authority  on  municipal  government  at  Bowdoin 
College,  about  twenty  of  Maine's  cities  and  towns  (more  than  in  all  the 
rest  of  New  England)  have  adopted  the  council-manager  form  of  govern- 
ment. Elected  on  a  non-partisan  basis,  the  city  or  town  council  is  the 
general  authority  (except  for  an  independent  school  committee),  with  a 
specially  trained  executive  as  manager  or  administrative  head. 

In  thinly  settled  and  undeveloped  areas,  local  districts  have  been 
created  as  governing  and  taxing  units,  chief  of  which  is  the  plantation, 
Maine  being  the  only  State  in  which  the  organized  plantation  is  an  im- 
portant element  in  the  governmental  system.  All  unorganized  townships 
are  governed  by  the  Maine  Forestry  District,  which  is  divided  into 
twenty-eight  sub-districts,  each  in  charge  of  a  chief  warden;  seventy-one 
watchmen  and  sixty-five  patrolmen  are  employed  from  May  to  Septem- 
ber, and  seventy-one  lookout  stations  and  ninety  camps  are  maintained 
within  the  district. 


PINE,      PAPER,      AND      POWER 


THE  story  of  industry  in  Maine  antedates  that  of  actual  settlement  by  an 
indeterminate  number  of  years.  One  Maine  industry  in  particular,  the 
fisheries,  had  its  beginnings  in  that  vague  age  of  adventure  and  exploration 
along  the  Atlantic  seaboard  prior  to  the  seventeenth  century.  Searching 
though  they  were  for  the  wealth  of  the  Indies,  the  early  voyagers  were  not 
unaware  of  the  commercial  possibilities  of  the  fisheries. 

Maine's  fisheries  supplied  some  of  the  State's  earliest  and  most  im- 
portant exports,  and  greatly  influenced  its  later  commmercial  develop- 
ment. Almost  without  exception,  the  problems  of  fisheries  and  fishing 
rights  have  entered  into  the  State's  international  and  interstate  negotia- 
tions during  its  history.  Captain  John  Smith,  who  carefully  noted  the 
variety  of  fish  found  here,  established  fisheries  at  Monhegan  in  1614;  and 
eight  years  later,  Governor  Winslow  of  Plymouth  reported  that  there 
were  thirty  ships  of  different  nationalities  at  Monhegan  and  Damaris- 
cove,  most  of  them  engaged  in  taking  on  cargoes  of  fish.  Even  before  the 
Revolution,  Maine  was  exporting  thousands  of  tons  of  fish  to  Europe  and 
the  West  Indies;  and  between  1820  and  1826,  the  State  produced  approx- 
imately one-fifth  of  the  total  fish  tonnage  of  the  United  States.  With 
minor  economic  fluctuations,  the  fisheries  consistently  stimulated  Maine 
commerce  throughout  the  nineteenth  century.  During  the  years  from 
1905  to  1930,  Maine's  coastal  fisheries  produced  between  116,000,000  and 
173,000,000  pounds  of  fish  and  shellfish  annually.  Seven  per  cent  of  the 
State's  population  derives  a  livelihood  from  the  fishing  industries. 

Maine  has  been,  and  still  is,  famous  for  the  quality  of  its  lobsters.  In 
1936,  Knox  County  and  its  principal  fishing  port,  Rockland,  led  the  rest 
of  the  State  in  the  landing  of  lobsters,  the  retail  value  of  which  exceeded 
$1,750,000.  The  Penobscot  Bay  scallop  fisheries  supply  a  widespread 
market,  and  the  1936  sardine  (herring)  pack  of  nearly  2,000,000  cases 
was  the  largest  since  1929.  Other  commercially  important  Maine  fish  are 
alewives,  cod,  cusk,  haddock,  hake,  mackerel,  halibut,  pollock,  crabs,  and 
clams.  Portland  is  the  State's  chief  fishing  port,  while  other  towns  in 
Cumberland,  Knox,  and  Washington  Counties  hold  important  places  in 
the  industry.  Experiments  are  being  made  with  shrimp  fisheries  in 


INDUSTRY,      COASTAL      AND 
INLAND 


INDUSTRY  in  Maine  follows  closely  the  power  and  port 
resources  of  the  waters  of  the  State.  Maine  has  grown  chiefly 
around  its  harbors  and  along  its  rivers.  About  Maine  waters 
today  are  evident  the  signs  of  economic  history:  old  industries 
decaying  and  disappearing,  seen  especially  in  the  picturesque 
hulls  tied  up  in  most  of  the  harbors,  and  new  industries,  such 
as  the  manufacture  of  paper,  rising  up  and  prospering.  Con- 
tinuing from  earliest  days  with  little  change  in  method  and 
product  are  the  important  businesses  of  harvesting  the  natural 
resources  in  which  the  State  is  rich  —  fish  and  lobsters  from 
the  sea,  hay  and  potatoes  grown  on  the  inland  farms,  and 
wood  products  and  blueberries  from  the  forests  and  the  plains. 


THE  FALLS,  VEAZIE 


HAYF1ELD  NEAR  PALERMO 


ggpl 


AIR  VIEW  OF  THE  STATE  PIER,  PORTLAND 


SHIPBUILDING,  THOM ASTON 


ON  THE  PORTLAND  WATERFRONT 


FISH  WEIRS,  BUCKSPORT 


OLD  HULL,  BOOTHBAY  HARBOR 


GROUNDED  SCHOONERS  IN  BOOTHBAY  HARBOR 


LJ 


-t  •faun  * 

M-fcl 


... 


MAINE  SEABOARD  PAPER  COMPANY,  BUCKSPORT 


£&T: 


LOGGING 


+*s 


m  i-< 


LARGE-SCALE  POTATO  DIGGING,  AROOSTOOK  COUNTY 


BLUEBERRY  PICKERS,  JONESBORO 


PACKING  LOBSTER  BAIT,  SEBASCO 


LOBSTER  POTS 


Pine,  Paper,  and  Power  51 

Maine  waters.  Important  work  in  fish  propagation  and  conservation  is 
conducted  in  the  State's  Sea  and  Shore  Fisheries  Department. 

The  State's  fisheries  reached  their  production  peak  in  1902,  when 
242,390,000  pounds  were  landed.  Since  then,  the  industry  has  been 
gradually  declining  in  Maine,  though  increasing  in  other  North  Atlantic 
States.  The  Maine  fisheries  were  especially  injured  by  the  decline  of  the 
salted  fish  business  several  years  ago,  and  Maine  fishermen  have  been 
slow  to  develop  new  methods  of  handling  and  merchandising  fish  pro- 
ducts. Although  situated  near  the  chief  fishing  banks  of  the  North 
Atlantic,  the  State's  fisheries  are  at  a  disadvantage  in  the  matter  of  trans- 
portation costs;  while  the  prevalent  tariff  rates,  in  combination  with 
improved  methods  of  packaging  and  refrigeration  utilized  by  competitor 
States  and  Canada,  still  further  increase  their  difficulties.  The  years  of 
scarcity  for  certain  kinds  of  fish  have  left  their  mark  on  the  industry;  a 
few  seasons  when  there  is  a  dearth  of  herring,  for  example,  bring  disaster 
to  the  State's  sardine-packing  plants.  River  dams  and  the  pollution  of 
waters  by  manufacturing  plants  have  affected  the  supply  of  such  mi- 
gratory fish  as  the  Atlantic  salmon  and  alewives,  which  seek  fresh  water 
for  spawning  purposes.  The  supply  of  lobsters,  scallops,  and  clams  has 
been  seriously  depleted  by  reckless  harvesting  methods  and  natural  causes. 

Although  the  State's  fisheries  production  has  declined  to  but  little  more 
than  90,000,000  pounds  annually,  the  industry  shows  signs  of  recovering 
some  of  its  lost  ground.  The  modernization  of  fishing  equipment  and 
packaging,  and  the  introduction  of  filleting,  have  been  beneficial.  A 
recently  enacted  measure  bars  non-resident  fishermen  from  Maine  waters 
for  seven  months  each  year;  this  is  designed  to  protect  the  State's  fisheries 
from  the  encroachments  of  many  out-of-State  fishermen  who  have 
hitherto  reaped  large  harvests  during  the  height  of  the  season.  Fishermen 
and  canning  factories  rest  their  hopes  for  capacity  production,  and  the 
allied  industries  (glue,  oil,  fish  meal,  and  pearl  essence)  their  plans  for 
expansion,  largely  on  the  possibility  of  increase  in  the  nation's  fish  con- 
sumption and  greater  attention  paid  to  modern  methods  of  handling, 
packaging,  and  selling. 


SHIPBUILDING 

Maine  shipbuilding,  closely  allied  with  fishing,  lumbering,  and  some 
other  industries,  has  had  a  long  and  distinguished  history.  Since  the  State 
relied  chiefly  on  its  shipping  to  maintain  its  commercial  position  through 


52  Maine:  The  General  Background 

several  centuries,  it  was  inevitable  that  its  people  should  early  engage  in 
shipbuilding  and  should  develop  a  high  degree  of  skill  in  that  work.  The 
'Virginia,'  launched  from  the  banks  of  the  Kennebec  by  the  Popham 
colonists  in  1608,  was  the  first  ship  built  by  Englishmen  on  the  North 
American  continent.  Twenty-four  years  later,  John  Winter  established  a 
shipyard  on  Richmond  Island.  Winter  may  well  be  considered  the 
pioneer  in  American  shipbuilding  for  the  export  trade,  since  his  vessels 
engaged  in  carrying  lumber,  fish,  oil,  and  other  products  to  England. 
Wherever  warranted  by  a  sufficiently  large  settlement  along  the  coast  and 
rivers,  shipbuilding  became  a  necessary  means  of  livelihood  well  before 
the  eighteenth  century.  Maine  was  'sea-minded'  for  generations  before 
the  'Ranger,'  a  Kittery-built  ship  under  the  command  of  John  Paul  Jones, 
received  in  1778  the  first  formal  salute  given  to  the  American  flag  by  a 
foreign  fleet. 

Contract  shipbuilding  hi  Maine  was  inaugurated  in  1762  by  Captain 
William  S wanton  of  Bath,  and  has  been  identified  with  that  city  ever 
since.  Swanton  and  other  shipbuilders  received  contracts  from  Spain, 
France,  and  the  West  Indies.  By  1790,  ships  were  being  built  all  along  the 
coast  and  up  the  principal  rivers.  The  city  of  Hallowell,  situated  more 
than  thirty  miles  from  the  open  sea,  entered  upon  an  era  of  shipbuilding 
that  lasted  beyond  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century.  Although  ship- 
building had  been  checked  by  the  effect  of  embargoes,  one-third  of  the 
total  tonnage  in  the  United  States  in  1812  was  Maine-built.  For  nearly 
half  a  century  after  the  War  of  1812,  the  State  led  all  others  in  the  ship- 
building industry.  In  the  i83o's,  Maine  built  more  tonnage  than  any 
other  State;  and  from  1841  to  1857,  the  period  when  Bath  became 
America's  leading  shipbuilding  city,  this  was  its  most  important  industry. 
Of  the  four  hundred  and  twenty-eight  ships,  barks,  and  brigs  built  in 
America  in  1848,  Maine  supplied  more  than  half.  In  approximately  fifty 
coast  towns,  this  was  the  chief  industry,  supporting  about  200,000 
persons. 

Maine  shipyards  have  turned  out  practically  every  kind  of  craft  known 
along  the  Atlantic  seaboard,  from  fishing  smacks  and  dredges  to  million- 
dollar  yachts,  six-masters,  submarines,  and  the  most  modern  type  of  de- 
stroyer. The  expansion  of  certain  industries,  such  as  lumbering  and  lime 
production,  gave  new  impetus  to  shipbuilding.  The  demand  for  wood  to 
be  burned  in  lime  kilns  led  to  the  construction  of  such  curious  vessels  as 
the  'St.  John  wood-boats,'  probably  the  most  inexpensive  type  ever  built 
on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic.  Squat  and  broad,  with  no  bowsprit  or  over- 
hanging stern,  and  having  a  single  deckhouse  and  an  exposed  rudder, 


Pine,  Paper,  and  Power  53 

these  craft  used  to  skim  into  port  with  their  decks  piled  so  high  with 
lumber  that  they  were  often  several  inches  awash.  This  kind  of  wood- 
boat  was  so  unusual  that  one  was  exhibited  in  Boston,  complete  with  its 
Yankee  skipper. 

Not  all  vessels  were  built  in  the  ordered  efficiency  of  the  shipyards. 
Many  were  constructed  far  inland  in  the  midst  of  the  timber  supply. 
One  thirty-ton  vessel  (almost  as  large  as  Columbus's  '  Pinta ')  was  built  in 
1830  on  the  north  end  of  Megunticook  Mountain  in  Camden,  and  then 
hauled  more  than  six  miles  over  the  ice  of  Megunticook  Lake  and  River 
to  Penobscot  Bay,  there  to  be  placed  in  the  fishing  and  lime  coasting- 
trade.  The  lumber  industry,  too,  was  responsible  for  odd  departures  in 
marine  architecture.  A  raft  constructed  of  squared  timber  in  the  form 
of  a  ship's  hull,  and  equipped  with  sails,  set  forth  from  the  Kennebec  in 
1792.  Its  crew  intended  to  cross  the  Atlantic,  but  abandoned  their  craft 
off  the  Labrador  coast.  Two  other  rafts  of  the  same  design  very  nearly 
completed  the  crossing,  but  foundered  off  England. 

The  increasing  use  of  steel  in  ship  construction  after  the  Civil  War 
seriously  crippled  the  industry  in  this  State,  although  half  the  nation's 
ships  afloat  in  1900  had  been  built  hi  Maine,  and  there  was  a  tremendous 
boom  in  the  industry  all  along  the  coast  during  the  World  War.  The 
population  of  the  six  leading  shipbuilding  counties  —  Hancock,  Knox, 
Sagadahoc,  Lincoln,  Waldo,  and  Washington  —  was  much  smaller  in 
1910  than  in  1870.  Yet  there  are  many  persons  along  the  coast  who  still 
recall  the  time  when  Maine  yards  were  working  to  capacity,  and  who  can 
remember  the  names  of  between  three  hundred  and  four  hundred  vessels 
that  were  built,  owned,  or  sailed  from  a  single  Maine  port.  The  passing  of 
the  wooden  ship  era,  the  falling  off  of  maritime  commerce,  and  Maine's 
distance  from  cheap  and  adequate  raw  materials  have  contributed  to  the 
industry's  decline.  In  one  year  (1922)  of  the  immediate  post-war  period, 
when  the  country  was  overstocked  with  vessels,  Bath  failed  to  launch  a 
single  ship,  for  the  first  time  in  one  hundred  and  forty  years. 

Maine-built  ships  have  won  distinction  of  one  sort  or  another  for  more 
than  three  centuries.  The  clipper  'Red  Jacket,'  launched  from  a  Rock- 
land  shipyard  in  1854,  made  the  crossing  from  New  York  to  England  in 
thirteen  days,  one  hour,  and  twenty-five  minutes,  establishing  a  record 
that  has  never  been  broken  by  a  sailing  vessel.  The  six-masted  freighter 
'Wyoming,'  built  in  the  present  century  and  the  largest  wooden  ship 
afloat  in  its  time;  the  'William  P.  Frye,'  the  first  American  ship  sunk  by 
the  Germans  during  the  World  War;  the  destroyer  'Lamson,'  the  fastest 
ship  of  its  type  in  the  United  States  Navy  in  1936  —  these  were  all  Bath- 


54  Maine :  The  General  Background 

built  vessels.  Scores  of  other  Maine  ships,  heavy  with  cargoes  of  lumber, 
rum,  wheat,  slaves,  molasses,  or  tea,  have  sailed  the  seven  seas  in  their 
day,  and  left  their  wreckage  and  nameboards  from  twoscore  Maine 
coastal  towns  upon  the  far  shores  of  the  world. 

Several  of  the  famous  old  Maine  shipyards  are  experiencing  a  revival  — 
the  caulking  mallets  are  again  busy,  and  the  pungent  odors  of  resin  and  tar 
once  more  fill  the  air.  An  increasing  interest  in  yachting  has  created  a 
demand  for  small  and  medium-sized  pleasure-craft.  There  are  few 
second-hand  boats  on  the  market,  and  these  command  high  prices.  The 
fishing  industry  requires  new  vessels,  while  Government  and  private 
contracts  for  new  shipping  pour  into  Maine  shipyards.  The  fitting 
out  of  a  four-masted  schooner  at  Portland  for  the  molasses  trade,  in 
April,  1937,  is  strongly  reminiscent  of  the  nineteenth  century,  and  in- 
dicates that  the  day  of  the  wooden  ship  is  by  no  means  over. 


LUMBERING  AND  ALLIED  INDUSTRIES 

Furnishing  the  materials  for  shipbuilding  and  long  the  foundation  of 
Maine  industry  in  general,  lumbering  has  had  a  varied  history  in  the  Pine 
Tree  State.  Despite  the  facts  that  the  forests  have  been  cut  back  from  the 
coast  and  that  Maine  contributed  a  large  share  of  the  nation's  lumber  for 
decades,  more  than  15,000,000  acres  of  forest  land  still  remain,  and 
improved  conservation  methods  seem  to  assure  an  adequate  supply  of 
timber  in  the  future.  The  lumber  industry  has  passed  through  three  eco- 
nomic phases  of  development:  the  phase  of  operations  undertaken  by  in- 
dividuals and  partners,  lasting  until  about  1820;  the  phase  of  co-operation, 
lumbering  associations,  and  the  river-drives,  between  1820  and  1880;  and 
the  present  mass-production  phase,  largely  influenced  by  the  growth  of 
the  paper  industry,  with  the  bankers,  promoters,  and  large  corporations 
in  control.  Lumbering  and  its  allied  industries  remain  leaders  in  the 
State's  industrial  field. 

Climate  and  topography,  an  extensive  system  of  waterways,  quantities 
of  raw  material,  and  cheap  transportation  all  played  their  part  in  the 
development  of  Maine  lumbering.  Many  of  the  State's  industrial  centers 
and  transportation  systems  were  established  to  meet  the  needs  of  this 
industry.  Lumber  and  lumbering  have  also  figured  prominently  in 
Maine's  history.  Resentment  against  the  policy  of  reserving  the  best 
timber  for  the  British  Navy  prior  to  the  Revolution  provoked  ill-feeling, 


Pine,  Paper,  and  Power  55 

aroused  agitation,  and  resulted  in  open  disputes  in  such  towns  as  Bath 
and  Portland.  Speculation  in  timber  lands  brought  on  the  State's 
financial  panic  in  1835,  anticipating  the  nation-wide  panic  by  two  years, 
and  doing  much  to  determine  Maine's  subsequent  land  policies.  The 
international  controversy  that  resulted  in  the  Aroostook  War  was 
fundamentally  a  dispute  regarding  lumbering  rights  along  the  north- 
eastern boundary. 

The  early  explorers  were  impressed  by  both  the  size  and  the  extent  of 
the  Maine  timberlands.  Later,  the  Popham  colonists  reported  that  there 
were  'fish  in  the  season  in  great  plenty  all  along  the  coast,  mastidge  for 
ships;  goodly  oaks,  and  cedars  with  infinite  other  sorts  of  trees.'  Lumber- 
ing and  sawmill  operations  were  active  at  Berwick  and  York  before  1640, 
and  the  export  of  timber  began  almost  immediately.  Cutting  trees  for 
shipbuilding  and  masts,  particularly  for  the  Royal  Navy,  became  a  dis- 
tinct industry  in  itself.  'Mast  ways,'  or  lanes  carefully  prepared  and 
cleared  of  obstructions  to  prevent  injury  to  the  forest  giants,  were  cut 
through  the  woods;  and  a  special  type  of  vessel,  capable  of  carrying  as 
many  as  five  hundred  masts  at  a  time,  was  constructed  for  their  trans- 
portation. Pine,  which  remained  king  of  the  forests  and  the  lumber  in- 
dustry until  it  began  to  be  replaced  in  importance  by  spruce  after  the 
Civil  War,  was  abundant  and  greatly  in  demand. 

Early  lumbering,  like  all  other  Colonial  industries,  was  affected  by  a 
population  rendered  unstable  as  a  result  of  Indian  warfare.  By  the 
eighteenth  century,  however,  the  lumber  and  mast  trade  in  northern 
New  England  had  gradually  become  centered  about  Portland  and  the 
Saco  River  basin.  In  Colonial  times,  lumber  was  often  used  as  currency, 
and  as  late  as  1840  shingles  were  used  as  a  medium  of  exchange  by  the 
Aroostook  settlers.  The  industry  spread  from  river  to  river,  north  and 
northeast.  Operations  along  the  Androscoggin,  which  declined  because  of 
the  difficulty  of  the  'drive'  in  that  region,  caused  Brunswick  to  become 
the  center  of  the  industry  by  the  first  quarter  of  the  nineteenth  century. 
Lumbermen  moved  on  to  the  Kennebec  and  then  to  the  Penobscot  basin, 
the  latter  becoming  the  State's  greatest  timber  reservoir  during  those 
decades  when  the  industry  was  at  its  height.  Concurrently  with  the 
growth  of  the  State,  lumbering  followed  wherever  settlements  were  made 
along  the  smaller  rivers  that  had  outlets  to  the  sea.  If  Maine  was  New 
England's  last  frontier,  the  Maine  pine  lands  were  a  special  frontier  in 
themselves.  Thoreau  wrote  in  1846  of  Maine  lumbering  that  'It  is  a  war 
against  the  pines,  the  only  real  Aroostook  or  Penobscot  war/ 

In  the  production  value  of  lumber,  Maine  ranked  second  in  the  United 


56  Maine:  The  General  Background 

States  during  the  early  nineteenth  century.  Her  decline  from  this  status 
after  1840  was  later  accelerated  by  the  exploitation  of  the  forests  of  the 
Lake  States  in  the  post-Civil  War  period.  The  actual  value  of  timber  rose 
consistently,  however,  between  1840  and  1900,  when  Penobscot  County 
became  pre-eminent  in  the  industry.  The  peak  year  of  lumber  production 
was  not  reached  until  1909.  Despite  the  fact  that  Maine  lumber  found 
extensive  markets  in  the  West  Indies,  abroad,  and  on  the  West  Coast 
(California  used  5,000,000  board  feet  from  Bangor  alone  in  1849),  Maine 
imported  lumber  in  considerable  quantities  during  the  middle  period  of 
the  nineteenth  century.  Timber,  particularly  for  shipbuilding  purposes, 
was  brought  in  from  the  South,  New  York,  New  Hampshire,  Canada, 
Michigan,  and  Ohio.  At  the  same  time,  Maine  lumbermen  and  river- 
drivers  were  following  the  course  of  the  lumber  empires  westward,  attack- 
ing the  forests  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  taking  with  them  the  skill, 
songs,  and  legends  learned  on  drives  along  the  Penobscot,  Kennebec, 
Androscoggin,  and  other  Maine  waterways. 

Although  the  demand  from  many  of  Maine's  former  lumber  markets  is 
nearly  non-existent  today,  the  development  of  the  pulp  and  other  wood- 
using  industries  towards  the  end  of  the  nineteenth  century  created  a  net- 
work of  new  enterprises  entirely  dependent  upon  the  lumber  industry. 
Softwood  lumbering  on  any  great  scale  practically  disappeared  after  1910, 
but  new  uses  were  found  for  spruce,  fir,  and  hemlock.  Tens  of  thousands 
of  board  feet  of  long  lumber  and  pulpwood  were  cut  along  the  tributary 
waters  of  the  Kennebec  alone  in  1926-27.  In  1935,  in  the  Maine  woods, 
91,185,120  feet  of  lumber  were  cut,  in  addition  to  more  than  half  a  million 
cords  of  pulp,  firewood,  and  timber  for  other  purposes.  Although  threat- 
ened by  adverse  tariff  rates,  competition,  a  drop  in  the  value  of  lumber, 
and  lack  of  an  adequate  market,  the  industry  is  nevertheless  still  vigorous. 

Pulp  and  paper  now  hold  the  foremost  place  in  Maine's  list  of  manu- 
factures. Pulp  for  commercial  purposes  was  first  produced  in  1868  at 
Topsham;  and  by  1914,  Maine  had  assumed  a  national  lead  in  this  field. 
Such  towns  as  Winslow,  Millinocket,  Rumford,  and  Woodland  owe  their 
growth  almost  wholly  to  the  pulp  industry.  One  Maine  concern  today  is 
the  country's  largest  manufacturer  of  newsprint;  while  a  plant  at  Bucks- 
port,  operated  entirely  by  electricity,  is  capable  of  turning  out  1280  feet 
of  newsprint,  18  feet  wide,  per  minute. 

The  paper  manufactories,  reaching  a  production-value  peak  of  $106,- 
000,000  in  1926,  were  producing  less  than  half  of  this  volume  in  the 
following  six-year  period.  Chief  among  the  causes  of  this  decline  were 
European  competition  (as  evidenced  by  the  cargoes  of  Baltic  baled  pulp 


Pine,  Paper,  and  Power  57 

shipped  into  the  port  of  Portland),  the  free  entry  of  newsprint  and  pulp 
from  Canada,  and  the  Canadian  mills'  competitive  advantage  of  low 
property,  wood,  power,  and  labor  costs.  Yet  Maine  pulp  and  paper 
manufactories  still  contribute  more  than  half  the  tonnage  carried  by 
Maine  transportation  systems,  and  continue  to  dominate  the  State's  in- 
dustries. 

Of  lesser  importance  commercially  are  numerous  products  allied  with 
the  lumber  and  the  pulp  and  paper  industries.  Planing  mill  and  fiber 
products,  wooden  boxes,  toys,  and  novelties  of  Maine  manufacture  have 
an  annual  value  of  several  million  dollars.  Other  allied  industries  include 
the  manufacture  of  such  diverse  items  as  toothpicks  and  the  famous  Old 
Town  canoes. 

MISCELLANEOUS  INDUSTRIES 


The  making  of  boots  and  shoes  ranks  second  in  Maine's  manufacturing. 
The  first  recorded  shoe  factory  in  the  State  began  operating  at  West 
Auburn  in  1835.  The  center  of  the  industry  shortly  became  established  at 
Auburn,  and  other  factories  sprang  up  elsewhere  within  the  next  decade. 
The  industry  has  grown  steadily,  and  even  during  the  depression  period 
of  1929-33  the  number  of  shoe  factories  increased  from  thirty-six  to  fifty. 
Every  kind  of  moccasin,  boot,  and  shoe  is  made  in  Maine,  the  total  pro- 
duction now  being  nearly  $40,000,000  annually.  Factories  are  dis- 
tributed throughout  Androscoggin,  York,  Kennebec,  and  Cumberland 
Counties,  with  the  city  of  Auburn  employing  nearly  one-half  of  the  shoe 
workers  in  the  State.  More  than  a  century  ago,  Maine  had  two  hundred 
tanneries  in  active  operation;  but,  owing  to  new  methods  of  tanning,  the 
industry  relapsed  swiftly  after  reaching  its  production  peak  of  $2,500,000 
in  1879. 

Maine's  textile  manufactures  are  comparative  newcomers  in  the  in- 
dustrial field.  When  machinery  began  to  be  substituted  for  hand  labor  in 
the  textile  industries,  capital  was  attracted  to  the  State  because  of  its 
water-power  resources.  Much  of  the  national  supply  of  wool  in  the  early 
nineteenth  century  was  grown  in  New  England,  southern  cotton  had  not 
yet  become  important,  and  Maine  had  an  easily  accessible  supply  of  raw 
materials.  Pioneer  cotton  mills  were  established  in  1809-1 1  at  Brunswick, 
Wilton,  and  Gardiner,  and  by  1820  there  were  nine  cotton  and  woolen 
mills  in  the  State. 

For  several  decades,  the  manufacture  of  cotton-goods  was  among  the 


58  Maine:  The  General  Background 

most  important  of  Maine's  industries,  in  some  years  being  exceeded  in 
production  value  only  by  the  lumber  industry.  Many  small  woolen  mills 
were  scattered  throughout  the  State  in  the  early  nineteenth  century,  but 
the  expansion  of  this  phase  of  the  textile  industry  was  not  rapid.  The 
making  of  hand-loomed  woolen  goods  was  continued  in  many  homes 
until  after  the  middle  of  the  century,  and  in  1860  there  were  only  twenty- 
eight  woolen  mills  in  the  State.  By  1900  the  number  of  textile  mills  had 
increased  to  seventy-nine,  a  number  which  by  1935  had  decreased  to 
forty-nine.  In  1935  there  were  twelve  cotton  manufactories  in  Maine, 
with  a  total  annual  production  value  of  $25,000,000;  several  mills  produce 
between  30,000,000  and  40,000,000  yards  of  cloth  a  year. 

As  the  textile  industries  have  expanded,  Maine  mills  have  kept  pace 
with  innovations  in  the  types  of  materials  produced.  Maine  cotton  twill, 
introduced  into  India  by  missionaries  about  fifty  years  ago,  is  still  con- 
sidered of  superior  quality  for  tropical  wear.  A  Brunswick  concern  was  a 
pioneer  in  the  manufacture  of  rayon  goods.  Many  of  the  textile  mills  in 
such  centers  as  Augusta,  Waterville,  Lewiston,  Biddeford-Saco,  and  San- 
ford  have  become  noted  for  their  particular  products  —  clothing  fabrics, 
sheets,  blankets,  bedspreads,  and  plush  for  automobile  and  railway  car 
upholstery.  More  than  23,000  workers  now  derive  their  living  from  the 
textile  industry,  the  annual  production  value  of  which  is  approximately 
$60,000,000.  As  a  whole,  Maine  textiles  have  shown  a  marked  increase 
in  production  and  sales  within  the  past  two  years. 

The  many  other  manufactories  include  one  of  the  country's  largest  tex- 
tile machinery  factories,  situated  at  Biddeford.  More  than  a  score  of 
Maine  companies  manufacture  textile  machinery,  machine  tools,  and 
related  products,  for  sale  all  over  the  world.  Nearly  one  hundred  plants 
are  engaged  in  the  canning  of  fruits,  vegetables,  and  fish.  A  cement  com- 
pany at  Thomaston,  the  only  concern  of  its  kind  in  New  England,  manu- 
factures more  than  a  quarter  million  tons  of  its  product  annually. 

With  a  few  exceptions,  Maine's  mineral  resources  have  scarcely  been 
touched.  Some  twenty-four  quarries,  extracting  granite,  lime,  slate,  and 
feldspar,  are  in  operation  today.  The  granite  industry,  which  once  made 
famous  the  stone  from  such  Maine  quarries  as  those  at  Hallowell  and 
Vinalhaven,  declined  after  the  general  adoption  of  other  materials  in 
building  and  as  a  result  of  excessive  transportation  costs.  However,  more 
than  a  dozen  granite  quarries  are  still  in  operation,  and  the  quarries  at 
North  Jay  are  among  the  country's  largest  producers  of  ornamental 
granite.  The  lime  industry,  inaugurated  at  Thomaston  in  1734,  centered 
about  Rockland  and  adjacent  Knox  County  towns.  Rockland  became  the 


Pine,  Paper,  and  Power  59 

nation's  greatest  lime-producing  center  during  the  nineteenth  century, 
but  did  not  reach  the  height  of  its  production  until  about  1900-01.  The 
city's  lime  markets  were  impaired  principally  because  of  the  increasing 
use  of  steel  and  domestic  Portland  cement  in  construction  work,  as  well  as 
the  tapping  of  hitherto  unworked  limestone  deposits  elsewhere.  The  in- 
dustry is  now  reviving,  devoting  most  of  its  activities  to  the  manufacture 
of  lime  for  agricultural  and  chemical  purposes.  Maine's  few  feldspar 
quarries  produce  approximately  twenty-five  per  cent  of  all  the  feldspar 
used  in  this  country. 

A  highly  important  factor  in  the  concentration  and  development  of  in- 
dustries has  been  the  exploitation  of  water-power  on  Maine  rivers.  From 
the  earliest  days,  when  streams  and  tidal  rivers  were  used  to  run  grist  and 
corn  mills,  this  natural  resource  has  been  increasingly  put  to  use,  until 
today  Maine  ranks  seventh  among  the  States  in  developed  water-power. 
The  developed  and  undeveloped  energy  is  estimated  at  more  than 
1,200,000  horse-power.  Maine  is  the  only  State  whose  laws  prohibit  the 
distribution  of  its  power  resources  outside  of  its  boundaries.  There  are 
now  seventy-six  public  utility  plants  in  the  State,  with  seven  companies 
controlling  ninety-three  per  cent  of  the  total  generated  power. 


COMMERCE 

Maine  commerce  has  followed  closely  every  turn  in  the  course  of  the 
State's  economic  and  industrial  history  ever  since  the  'Virginia'  took  a 
cargo  of  Maine  furs  and  sassafras  root  to  England  in  1608.  The  purchase 
and  barter  of  furs  for  export  to  Europe  were  mainly  responsible  for  the 
penetration  of  the  Maine  wilderness  and  the  establishment  of  forts  and 
trading  posts;  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony  was  keenly  interested  in  the 
Maine  fur  trade  and  fisheries.  Early  commerce  consisted  chiefly  in  the 
export  of  such  products  as  pipe  staves  (wood  for  the  manufacture  of  oil 
and  wine  casks),  clapboards,  fish,  fish  oil,  and  salt  fish  —  trade  that  soon 
gave  way  to  the  more  important  export  of  masts  and  timber.  Another 
commercial  item,  of  no  great  note  but  certainly  unusual,  consisted  of 
scalps.  During  the  period  of  the  Indian  wars,  extending  from  the  middle 
of  the  seventeenth  to  the  mid-eighteenth  century,  French  and  Indian 
scalps  frequently  brought  prices  of  from  five  to  one  hundred  pounds. 

There  was,  necessarily,  a  lull  in  commercial  activity  during  the  Revolu- 
tion; but  ninety-nine  vessels  cleared  from  Portland  alone  in  the  year  1787, 


60  Maine:  The  General  Background 

all  but  ten  of  them  bound  for  foreign  ports.  In  the  years  between  the  end 
of  the  Revolution  and  the  War  of  1812,  comfortable  fortunes  were 
amassed  by  local  merchants;  and  this  era  of  commercial  prosperity  is 
reflected  in  the  number  of  impressive  mansions  built  along  the  coast, 
especially  during  the  first  decade  of  the  nineteenth  century.  Circum- 
stances were  ideal  for  the  advancement  of  lucrative  trade;  there  are  few 
coastlines  with  more  numerous  land-locked  harbors  suitable  for  the 
fitting-out  of  vessels  while  safely  protected  from  interference.  It  has  been 
noted  that  only  the  Dalmatian  coast  of  the  Adriatic  and  the  gulfs  of  the 
Grecian  peninsula  can  compare  with  the  Maine  coast  in  this  respect. 

The  embargo  of  1807  and  the  War  of  1812  brought  commercial  activity 
very  nearly  to  a  standstill  all  along  the  coast,  although  more  than  one 
Maine  pocket  was  enriched  by  the  proceeds  from  smuggling  and  privateer- 
ing operations.  As  related  to  industry  as  a  whole,  it  is  noteworthy  that 
the  War  of  1812  stimulated  the  growth  of  glass,  woolen,  metal,  cotton, 
and  other  manufactories  all  over  the  State,  as  the  citizens  were  deprived 
of  their  maritime  livelihood.  The  State  had  been  predominantly  com- 
mercial up  to  this  period,  shipping  on  an  average  of  150,000  tons  yearly, 
and  had  been  created  a  separate  district  for  the  more  satisfactory  ad- 
ministration of  maritime  affairs  more  than  thirty  years  previously.  The 
influx  of  foreign  goods  after  the  War  of  1812  had  a  disastrous  effect  on 
home  industry,  the  demand  for  agricultural  produce  fell  off,  and  Maine 
lost  15,000  inhabitants  as  its  farmers  rushed  West  during  the  'Ohio 
Fever'  of  1815-16. 

By  1848,  the  number  of  vessels  engaged  in  foreign  commerce  ran  well 
into  the  hundreds.  The  West  Indian  trade,  which  had  engaged  the  atten- 
tion of  Maine  merchants  for  decades,  was  flourishing,  sustained  principally 
by  the  rapidly  growing  lumber  industry.  Cargoes  of  lumber  were  bringing 
profits  of  three  hundred  and  four  hundred  per  cent,  and  more  than  half 
the  adult  population  of  the  coast  towns  was  engaged  in  ocean  navigation. 
Ships  whose  keels  had  been  laid  in  Maine  shipyards,  from  Kittery  to 
Eastport,  strained  at  their  hawsers  in  ports  all  over  the  globe.  Yankee 
shipmasters,  whose  hands  were  often  as  accustomed  to  turning  the  pages 
of  a  Bible  as  to  wielding  a  belaying  pin,  brought  back  ships  the  holds  of 
which  were  redolent  with  the  odor  of  West  Indian  molasses,  rum,  spices, 
and  China  tea,  or  with  the  stench  of  a  cargo  of  slaves.  Among  the 
principal  foreign  and  coastwise  imports  at  this  time  were  molasses,  sugar, 
salt,  iron,  flour,  corn,  and  coal;  while  lumber,  shocks,  leather,  agricultural 
produce,  and  ice  were  a  few  of  the  chief  exports.  The  ice  exporting  in- 
dustry, which  occupied  an  important  industrial  position  between  1840  and 


Pine,  Paper,  and  Power  61 

1890,  is  now  practically  non-existent  in  Maine,  due  to  the  ice-harvesting 
of  rivers  elsewhere  and  to  electrical  refrigeration.  Ice,  shipped  south  as 
ballast  at  a  negligible  cost,  once  brought  profitable  returns;  during  the 
i88o's  and  iSpo's,  the  excellent  reputation  of  Kennebec  River  ice  was  so 
widespread  that  London  ice  companies  spuriously  flaunted  the  name 
'  Kennebec  Ice '  on  their  carts. 

Checked  temporarily  by  the  effects  of  the  panic  of  1857  and  the  Civil 
War,  Maine  commerce  appeared  to  increase  steadily  thereafter.  In  the 
year  1872,  the  total  value  of  imports  and  exports  at  Portland  was  $45,000,- 
ooo ;  while  the  same  city's  share  of  the  'in  transit'  and  trans-shipment 
trade  of  the  United  States  for  February  of  that  year  was  more  than 
$5,000,000,  or  approximately  five-sixths  of  the  whole.  In  this  same  year, 
also,  the  Bangor  lumber  export  trade  reached  its  record  value  of  ship- 
ments, nearly  $4,000,000;  while  lime-producing  Rockland  was  exporting 
more  than  1,000,000  casks  of  lime  annually.  Yet,  however  imperceptibly 
at  first,  Maine  shipping  had  begun  to  enter  its  decline.  The  causes  were 
varied,  some  of  comparatively  recent  development,  yet  all  contributing  to 
the  falling  away  of  Maine  maritime  commerce.  A  few  of  these  factors 
have  been  the  introduction  of  steam  power  in  navigation,  heavy  tonnage 
and  property  taxes,  pilotage  fees,  the  use  of  steel,  the  competition  of 
British  tramp  steamers,  the  lack  of  demand  for  fishing  vessels,  and  the 
appearance  of  barges  in  coastwise  trade.  The  industrial  development  of 
the  State  at  large  demanded  increasing  amounts  of  raw  materials,  yet 
maritime  commerce  reached  its  last  high  point  during  the  World  War. 
For  the  period  of  1928-33,  the  average  annual  foreign  imports  and  exports 
amounted  to  only  884,632  short  tons,  while  domestic  receipts  and  ship- 
ments were  a  little  more  than  3,500,000  short  tons. 

Maine  commerce  today  is  divided  into  the  three  classes  of  coastwise, 
intercoastal,  and  foreign  traffic,  the  last-named  being  the  one  most 
seriously  undermined  by  present  conditions.  Coastwise  bulk  traffic  con- 
sists largely  of  coal,  petroleum,  pulp  wood,  sulphur,  newsprint,  and  textile 
raw  materials;  lighter  coastwise  traffic  has  been  to  a  large  extent  replaced 
by  rail  and  highway  transportation.  A  small  amount  of  trade  with  the 
West  Coast  has  developed  within  the  last  few  decades.  Maine's  participa- 
tion in  foreign  commerce  is  but  a  fraction  of  its  former  extent,  particularly 
as  regards  export  traffic.  The  State  has  little  bulk  cargo  for  the  support  of 
foreign  shipping;  and  the  important  export  of  Canadian  grain,  which 
reached  a  maximum  of  43,000,000  bushels  shipped  through  Portland  in 
1915-16,  has  become  a  thing  of  the  past  due  to  the  effects  of  Canadian, 
British,  and  American  tariff  policies  in  diverting  the  trade  elsewhere. 


62  Maine:  The  General  Background 

Maine  needs  larger  and  more  efficient  distribution  centers  if  it  is  to  be 
assured  of  a  revival  of  its  foreign  trade.  The  present  lack  is  one  of  the 
reasons  chiefly  responsible  for  the  fact  that,  in  1930,  fifty-nine  per  cent  of 
Maine's  manufactured  products  flowed  through  the  port  of  New  York, 
nearly  eleven  per  cent  through  Boston,  and  only  thirty  per  cent  through 
the  State's  own  ports. 

It  is  evident  that  full  advantage  is  not  being  taken  of  the  possibilities  of 
Maine  seaports  for  foreign  trade.  The  State  is  further  handicapped  by  not 
being  near  the  primary  markets,  and  it  is  possible  that  both  railroad  and 
highway  freight  systems  could  be  better  co-ordinated,  especially  in  their 
relation  to  maritime  commerce.  Maine  is  today  primarily  an  importing 
State.  A  revival  of  a  profitable  grain  trade  and  coastwise  shipping  would 
be  of  the  greatest  benefit  to  both  imports  and  exports,  and  would  prepare 
the  way  for  a  restored  commerce.  Should  the  present  commercial  status 
be  remedied,  authorities  would  no  longer  be  obliged  to  admit  that  a 
potential  trade  of  $50,000,000  is  being  diverted  from  Portland,  the 
State's  largest  seaport. 


THE      MAINE     FARM 


THE  first  settlers  came  to  Maine's  rocky  shores,  not  to  wrest  a  livelihood 
from  the  thin  soil,  but  to  exploit  native  resources  of  fish  and  lumber  that 
seemed  to  them  inexhaustible.  They  naturally  built  their  towns  along  the 
coast  and  on  the  banks  of  navigable  streams;  but  as  the  population  in- 
creased and  the  forests  were  cut  back  from  the  water,  the  cleared  land  was 
taken  up  for  farms.  Constantly  repulsed  by  Indians  and  ever  at  war  with 
the  elements,  the  Maine  settlers  were  of  necessity  self-sufficing. 

Their  first  crop  of  any  importance  was  one  that  had  been  the  staple  of 
the  aborigines  —  corn.  It  suited  the  requirements  of  the  settlers;  it  could 
be  stored  through  the  winter  and  used  as  food  for  animals  and  human- 
kind alike.  On  the  farms  of  Captain  John  Mason  along  the  Piscataqua 
and  in  Berwick,  at  the  time  of  his  death  in  1635,  there  were  several  water- 
powered  corn-grinding  mills,  the  first  of  their  kind  in  New  England,  and 
three  hundred  head  of  cattle.  Since  plenty  of  game  was  to  be  had  from 
the  near-by  forests,  cattle  were  kept  only  for  fresh  supplies  of  milk,  butter, 
and  cheese.  Corn  and  cattle  go  together.  Until  the  fertile  bottom-lands  of 
the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  valleys  were  opened  and  transportation  facilities 
increased  so  that  farmers  in  Maine  were  able  to  buy  corn  superior  to  their 
own  at  a  price  below  their  own  production  costs,  corn  remained  the  chief 
agricultural  product  of  the  State.  When  it  ceased  to  be  an  important  crop, 
the  production  of  beef  and  pork  fell  off  proportionately. 

As  Maine's  settlement  grew,  lumbering  and  fishing  flourished,  but  the 
home-making  type  of  farm  continued  to  spread  through  the  territory. 
Not  until  after  Maine  became  a  State  in  1820,  however,  were  there  agricul- 
tural exports  of  any  importance.  During  the  period  of  trade  restrictions 
caused  by  the  Jefferson  Embargo  and  the  following  War  of  1812,  shipping 
and  shipbuilding,  until  that  time  among  the  greatest  of  Maine's  industries, 
met  with  an  effective  set-back,  and  men  turned  more  and  more  to  the 
handicrafts  and  to  farming.  The  extensive  use  of  horses  in  lumbering 
operations  brought  about  a  demand  for  hay,  and  this  became  an  im- 
portant cash  crop.  By  1900,  lumbering  operations  had  given  way  to  pulp 
cutting,  horses  were  replaced  by  machinery,  and  hay  (though  still  an 
important  crop  in  relation  to  dairying)  had  declined  in  value. 


64  Maine :  The  General  Background 

Sheep  and  cattle  were  driven  overland  to  Massachusetts  markets  in  the 
early  days.  In  1820  more  than  4000  cattle  and  3000  sheep  were  thus 
exported.  In  that  year  there  were  in  the  State  more  than  48,000  oxen, 
17,800  horses,  95,000  cattle,  and  66,500  swine.  But  even  then,  the  num- 
ber of  horses  was  rapidly  increasing  because  of  the  demand  for  them  by 
lumber  operators  and  the  growing  popularity  of  Maine-bred  race-horses. 

During  the  period  of  the  trade  barriers,  the  shortage  of  wool  brought 
about  what  is  now  called  the  '  Merino  fever.'  As  soon  as  the  embargo  was 
lifted,  farmers  returned  to  the  Downs  breeds  they  had  formerly  favored. 
The  raising  of  mutton  sheep  and  beef  cattle  increased  until  after  1870, 
when  competition  from  western  producers  brought  about  a  decisive 
change;  between  1890  and  1900  the  number  of  beef  cattle  in  the  State 
decreased  one  hundred  thousand  head.  Market  competition  and  the  need 
for  a  crop  giving  higher  cash  returns  shifted  beef-raising  to  land  of  less 
value  per  acre.  Industrial  centers  of  Maine  and  Massachusetts  offered 
ready  markets  for  dairy  products,  and  the  change  was  made  from  beef  to 
dairy  cattle.  Sixty  cheese  factories  were  built,  and  the  production  of 
farm  butter  increased;  although  the  manufacture  of  these  products  never 
achieved  great  importance  and  has  been  declining  since  1900,  the  number 
of  dairy  cattle  has  been  constantly  on  the  increase.  Improved  facilities  for 
refrigeration  and  transportation  have  made  it  possible  for  Maine  farmers 
to  supply  the  larger  cities  of  southern  New  England,  as  well  as  their  own 
industrial  centers,  with  fresh  milk  and  cream,  and  to  fill  the  increasing 
demands  of  summer  residents  within  the  State.  Throughout  all  of 
southern  Maine,  dairying  is  now  a  major  industry. 

Since  1820  a  wide  diversity  of  products  has  been  cultivated,  with  vary- 
ing degrees  of  success.  Early  attempts  were  made  to  grow  wheat,  oats, 
barley,  rye,  apples,  beans,  peas,  and  other  fruits  and  vegetables,  even  hops 
and  silk  from  silkworms.  With  the  development  of  the  West,  the  raising  of 
wheat  ceased  to  be  of  importance  in  Maine,  although  it  is  still  harvested  in 
Aroostook  and  the  inland  counties,  where  modern  machinery  can  be  used. 
The  growing  of  rye  has  practically  ceased,  but  more  than  one  hundred 
thousand  bushels  of  barley  are  raised  annually.  Now  that  potatoes  have 
become  a  very  important  crop,  the  production  of  oats  has  increased,  be- 
cause their  cultivation  fits  into  the  rotation  schedule  in  the  potato  areas; 
some  four  million  bushels  are  produced  annually.  Buckwheat,  also 
important  in  crop  rotation,  is  grown  to  some  extent. 

After  the  opening  of  the  West,  Maine's  agriculture  underwent  a  period 
of  rapid  change.  Between  1850  and  1870,  State  leaders,  in  order  to  promote 
farming,  encouraged  favorable  legislation  and  the  development  of  agricul- 


The  Maine  Farm  65 


tural  societies.  Bounties  were  put  upon  the  cultivation  of  certain  pro- 
ducts, such  as  wheat.  An  exemption  of  five  hundred  dollars  in  the 
valuation  of  farms  was  made  against  unpaid  mortgages  or  incurred  debts. 
New  land  was  put  on  the  market  in  two  hundred-acre  plots  at  fifty  cents 
an  acre,  with  the  opportunity  of  working  off  the  purchase  price  on  town 
roads  over  a  specified  period  of  years.  Fairs  and  exhibits  helped  to 
standardize  varieties  of  products.  Finally,  with  a  change  in  farm  enter- 
prises and  the  new  access  to  railroad  transportation,  agriculture  became 
stabilized  and  increased  in  importance. 

Aroostook  County,  settled  by  defenders  in  the  Aroostook  War,  rapidly 
drew  farmers  from  southern  Maine.  Because  of  the  special  fitness  of  soil 
and  climate,  potatoes  early  became  a  crop  of  great  importance.  Starch 
factories  were  built  and  formed  the  chief  outlet  for  the  crop ;  but  not  until 
the  completion  of  the  Aroostook  railroad  in  1894  did  the  county  attain 
national  importance  for  its  potato  production.  Maine  now  raises  nearly 
fifteen  per  cent  of  the  United  States  potato  crop,  ranking  first  among  the 
States  in  number  of  bushels  produced  and  sixth  in  number  of  acres  under 
cultivation.  Storage  opportunities,  aided  in  part  by  the  climate,  make  it 
economically  advisable  for  southern  States  to  depend  upon  Maine 
potatoes  for  seed  stock.  Government  inspection,  experimentation,  and 
control  of  disease  and  insect  pests  have  increased  production  and  im- 
proved the  quality  of  the  crop.  Maine  potatoes  today  account  for  more 
than  half  the  cash  value  of  the  State's  total  agricultural  output,  and  some 
potatoes  are  raised  in  every  county.  The  best  producing  area  extends  out 
of  Aroostook  County  south  and  west  into  Penobscot  and  Somerset 
Counties.  Here  the  land  is  especially  adapted  to  potato-raising,  facilities 
for  transportation  are  available,  and  the  crop  is  of  high  quality. 

Apples  are  a  staple  crop  in  Maine.  The  small  varied  orchard  of  the  past 
is  rapidly  disappearing  as  apple-raising  becomes  more  specialized.  The 
Baldwin,  Ben  Davis,  and  Greening  varieties,  once  favored,  have  given 
way  to  the  Mclntosh,  Delicious,  and  Northern  Spy.  Great  quantities  of 
these  latter  varieties  are  exported  annually  or  made  into  cider.  In  1933, 
the  State's  production  of  apples  exceeded  a  million  and  a  half  bushels,  but 
in  the  severe  winter  of  1933-34  many  trees  were  killed  and  production 
dropped  nearly  a  million  bushels  in  a  single  year. 

With  the  comparative  increase  in  land  values,  creating  a  need  for  crops 
giving  higher  cash  income  per  acre,  cultivation  of  sweet  corn,  poultry- 
raising,  and  roadside  and  market  gardening  have  assumed  considerable 
importance.  Sweet  corn  for  canning  or  market  is  best  grown  in  con- 
junction with  dairying,  because  of  the  value  of  its  stalks  for  ensilage  and 


66  Maine :  The  General  Background 

because  it  gives  an  outlet  for  barn  manure.  Farmers  co-operate  with 
canning  factories  toward  producing  a  uniform  and  superior  crop  by  using 
hybrid  seed  from  a  single  source.  The  amount  of  Maine  canned  corn  is 
increasing  rapidly;  in  1936,  fifty  thousand  cases  of  twenty-four  cans  each 
were  placed  on  the  market.  The  area  producing  the  most  sweet  corn  ex- 
tends from  west  to  east  through  the  south-central  part  of  the  State,  in- 
cluding Oxford,  Androscoggin,  Kennebec,  and  Waldo  Counties,  and  the 
southern  parts  of  Franklin,  Somerset,  and  Penobscot  Counties.  This  is 
also  the  area  from  which  comes  the  greater  part  of  the  milk  exported  to  the 
Boston  market. 

Poultry  has  always  been  raised  in  Maine,  but  until  recent  years  only  in 
farm  flocks  of  limited  number  and  with  egg  production  varying  according 
to  season.  With  the  demand  for  uniform  eggs  of  good  quality  and  the 
development  of  rapid  transportation,  the  raising  of  poultry  has  steadily 
increased.  In  1936,  the  production  of  poultry  in  Maine  rose  to  1,713,000, 
and  the  egg  production  rose  to  more  than  190  million. 

Market  or  roadside  gardening  is  a  fairly  recent  development.  As  in- 
dustrial towns  grew,  the  demand  for  fresh  vegetables  increased,  and  near- 
by farmers  began  to  cater  to  the  ready  market.  Increasing  numbers  of 
summer  residents  also  created  a  new  and  large  demand  for  fresh  farm  and 
dairy  products.  Automobile  transportation  benefited  the  farmers  rel- 
atively distant  from  cities,  and  roadside  stands  rapidly  became  profitable 
marketing  centers  for  fresh  farm  goods.  Market  gardening  is  an  im- 
portant enterprise  in  the  coastal  belt,  where  rocky  land  and  high  property 
valuation  prevent  general  large-scale  farming. 

With  the  growth  of  the  canning  industry,  blueberries  for  canning  and 
shipping  have  increased  in  economic  value.  About  eighty-five  per  cent  of 
the  country's  canned  blueberries  originate  in  Maine,  and  almost  all  of 
those  come  from  the  so-called  '  blueberry  barrens '  of  Washington  County. 
The  canning  industry  has  also  brought  an  increase  in  the  cultivation  of 
peas  and  beans. 

The  number  of  farms  in  Maine  has  been  decreasing  since  1880  —  from 
64,000  in  that  year  to  39,000  in  1936.  Although  a  considerable  number  of 
farms  have  increased  in  size,  the  total  number  of  acres  under  cultivation 
has  also  decreased  considerably.  Tenant  farming  has  never  been  popular 
in  Maine;  the  majority  of  persons  in  the  rural  sections  own  their  property 
outright,  and  take  pride  in  handing  it  down  intact  from  one  generation  to 
the  next.  Despite  the  general  transition  away  from  the  self-sufficient 
farmer  type,  Maine  continues  to  raise  most  of  its  own  food  supply.  The 
culture  of  bees  and  the  raising  of  small  fruits  on  most  farms  throughout 


The  Maine  Farm  67 


the  State  are  among  the  survivals  of  a  pioneer  economy.  The  average 
Maine  farm,  with  its  well-kept  fields,  large  barns,  and  trim  white  house 
surrounded  by  hardy  orchard  trees,  attests  to  a  hard-won  and  frugal 
security  less  common,  perhaps,  in  other  rural  sections  of  New  England. 


PROM      WATERWAYS      TO 
AIRWAYS 


TRANSPORTATION  in  Maine  has  always  been  conditioned  by  those 
geographic  and  climatic  features  which  have  had  such  a  lasting  effect  on 
many  varying  phases  of  the  State's  life.  Improvement  in  travel  facilities 
has  not  reduced  the  distances  from  point  to  point  within  the  State,  has  not 
altered  the  depth  of  snow  or  eliminated  the  effects  of  frost  on  the  high- 
ways. From  forest  trail  and  canoe  to  the  airplane,  every  link  in  the 
history  of  American  transportation,  with  the  exception  of  the  stage- 
coach, is  being  used  in  Maine  today.  Large  areas  of  the  northern  wilder- 
ness can  be  reached  by  no  other  means  than  those  employed  four  cen- 
turies ago,  walking  and  canoe,  or  by  the  latest  development  in  transporta- 
tion, the  airplane.  Luxurious  trains  speed  through  miles  of  forest  which 
have  not  altered  since  the  days  when  one  was  lucky  to  be  able  to  drive 
from  Kittery  to  Portland  in  a  four-wheeled  vehicle.  Long  the  chief  means 
of  transportation  for  the  settler,  traveler,  and  merchant  who  gamed 
access  to  the  interior  through  the  coastal  towns  or  by  way  of  the  larger 
rivers,  water-borne  traffic  now  retains  only  a  small  fraction  of  its  former 
importance. 

The  earliest  recorded  transportation  system  in  Maine  was  that  used  by 
the  Indians,  an  unusually  comprehensive  network  of  routes  which  re- 
quired no  cost  or  labor  for  maintenance  —  the  waterways.  By  rivers  and 
streams,  alternating  with  '  carries '  from  lake  to  lake  or  to  other  rivers,  the 
Maine  tribes  could  thread  their  way  over  most  of  the  State  with  a 
minimum  of  effort.  The  waterways  were  of  particular  importance  during 
the  autumn  when  inland  tribes  sought  the  more  clement  and  favorable 
living  conditions  along  the  coast,  as  the  primitive  Red  Paint  People 
doubtless  had  done  before  them.  Hunters  and  sportsmen  today  continue 
to  use  many  of  the  old  Indian  highways. 

One  of  the  longest  trails  (meaning  by '  trail'  a  combination  of  waterways 
and  l  carries ')  was  that  between  what  is  now  Quebec  and  the  mouth  of  the 
Kennebec  River.  The  journey  was  made  from  Quebec,  up  the  Chaudiere 
to  Lake  Megantic,  the  Chain  of  Ponds,  Dead  River,  to  the  Kennebec  and 
down;  this  constitutes  the  Arnold  Trail  of  today.  Another  trail  followed 


From  Waterways  to  Airways  69 

the  same  route  to  the  Forks  of  the  Kennebec,  then  it  turned  eastward 
along  the  Kennebec  by  various  ponds,  Moosehead  and  Chesuncook 
Lakes,  and  so  on  down  to  the  Penobscot  and  Penobscot  Bay.  Another 
series  of  waterways  and  'carries'  linked  the  Penobscot  and  Kennebec, 
starting  from  the  Sebasticook  River  at  Winslow.  Three  well-defined 
overland  trails  led  from  Rockland  Harbor  to  Mill  Stream,  the  Wessewes- 
keag,  and  St.  George's  River.  Indians  from  the  Penobscot  also  came  down 
the  St.  George's  to  New  Harbor,  where  they  turned  off  over  a  'carry'  to 
the  Sheepscot  waters.  A  main  trail  went  up  the  Sheepscot  to  Eastern 
River,  the  Kennebec  and  Androscoggin,  and  Merrymeeting  Bay  where, 
near  Brunswick,  a  three-mile  '  carry '  gave  access  to  Casco  Bay.  Again,  a 
route  lay  between  Gardiner  and  the  Sandy  River  district  by  way  of 
Cobbosseecontee  Stream,  Lake  Maranacook,  Greeley's  Pond,  Norcross 
Pond,  etc.,  into  the  Little  Norridgewock.  Among  other  well-known 
Indian  trails  were  the  Abnaki,  or  Saco,  from  Saco  to  Fryeburg;  the 
Pequawket,  from  Portland  to  Fryeburg;  the  Ossippi  into  the  White 
Mountains;  and  the  long  Mohawk  Trail,  originating  in  Massachusetts, 
crossing  the  New  Hampshire  line  into  Maine,  and  passing  through  Naples, 
Farmington,  Skowhegan,  Bangor,  and  thence  to  Eastport  and  Calais. 
Parts  of  many  of  these  early  Indian  routes  are  now  automobile  highways. 

The  early  settlers,  as  well  as  those  who  came  later,  availed  themselves 
of  the  same  means  of  transportation  used  by  the  Indians.  It  goes  without 
saying  that  Maine  history,  the  State's  social  and  economic  growth,  would 
have  been  something  entirely  different  without  its  major  waterways. 
There  would  have  been  no  development  of  the  industrially  prominent 
river  towns,  and  the  lumber  industry  would  have  been  negligible;  the 
settling  of  the  rich  Aroostook  region,  for  example,  would  certainly  have 
been  delayed  had  it  not  been  for  the  St.  John,  Madawaska,  and  other 
rivers  in  the  northeastern  region.  Land  transportation  in  Colonial  Maine 
was  not  a  thing  to  be  undertaken  lightly.  Indian  trails  and  paths  were 
gradually  supplemented  by  woods  roads  and  'mast  ways,'  the  latter  so 
called  because  they  were  used  for  the  transporting  of  wood  —  more 
specifically,  timber  to  be  converted  into  masts.  One  of  these  'mast  ways' 
ran  between  High  Pine  and  Kittery,  another  between  South  Sanford  and 
Berwick. 

During  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries  Maine  towns  were 
often  rebuked  and  fined  for  their  failure  to  maintain  roads.  In  1653,  the 
Massachusetts  commissioners  could  get  no  farther  than  Wells  for  want  of 
roads;  and  they  ordered  the  inhabitants  of  Wells,  Saco,  and  Cape  Porpoise 
to '  make  sufficient  roads  within  their  towns  from  house  to  house,  and  clear 


70  Maine :  The  General  Background 

and  fit  them  for  foot  and  cart  travel,  before  the  next  county  court  under 
penalty  of  10  pounds  for  every  town's  defect  in  this  particular,'  and  to 
'lay  out  a  sufficient  highway  for  horse  and  foot  between  towns  within 
that  time.' 

Stagecoach  lines  of  any  extent  did  not  come  into  existence  until  after 
the  Revolution.  The  first  stagecoach  began  operating  in  1787  between 
Portland  and  Portsmouth,  requiring  three  days  for  the  journey.  The 
advertisement  stated  that  'Those  ladies  and  gentlemen  who  choose  the 
expeditious,  cheap  and  commodious  way  of  stage  traveling,  will  please  to 
lodge  their  names  with  Mr.  Motley.  Price  for  one  person,  passage  the 
whole  way  20  shillings.'  Five  years  later,  an  enterprising  citizen  made  the 
first  attempt  to  carry  passengers  between  Portland  and  Hallowell  by  way 
of  Wiscasset,  making  two  trips  weekly  by  sleigh  in  winter,  and  one  trip  a 
week  by  coach  in  summer.  In  eastern  Maine,  transportation  was  much 
slower  in  developing.  For  a  long  time  there  were  no  roads,  and  until  1800 
no  communication  with  interior  towns  was  possible  except  by  foot.  As 
late  as  1801  it  was  easy  to  get  lost  in  going  from  Belfast  to  Bangor  by  land, 
and  even  in  1804  no  one  would  attempt  to  bring  a  load  of  goods  across 
country  from  Augusta. 

One  of  the  early  transportation  concerns  of  the  Maine  inhabitants  was 
that  of  the  postal  service.  Mail  was  entrusted  to  ships,  or  to  men  making 
the  journeys  through  the  woods  by  foot  or  horse.  A  post  route  between 
Portland  and  Boston  was  established  in  1775,  but  the  weekly  service  was 
very  irregular.  In  1790  there  was  only  one  post  road  in  Maine;  this  ran 
along  the  coast  southwest  of  Wiscasset  and  connected  with  the  post  road 
to  Boston.  For  some  years  afterwards  there  was  no  post  service  east  of 
Wiscasset.  An  arrangement  had  been  made  in  1788  whereby  the  mails 
came  to  Portland  from  Boston  three  times  a  week.  The  first  express 
service  between  Portland  and  Boston  was  a  tri-weekly  schedule  by  water 
which  was  maintained  in  1839. 

As  the  population  increased,  land  transportation  began  to  expand. 
Stagecoaches  between  Boston  and  New  York  and  Bangor  operated  in 
relays  as  early  as  1816.  At  about  this  period,  and  a  little  later,  more  than 
fifteen  stage  lines  were  operating  out  of  Hallowell  alone.  Lines  increased 
along  the  coast  and  up  the  major  river  valleys,  and  travel  conditions 
improved.  By  1825,  stages  made  the  trip  between  Bangor  and  Portland  in 
thirty-six  hours,  the  fare  being  $7.50.  Two  years  later,  almost  daily  stage- 
coach service  was  possible  between  Portland  and  Dover,  Portsmouth, 
Kennebunk,  Hallowell,  Augusta,  Brunswick,  Wiscasset,  Waldoboro, 
Bath,  Conway,  Waterford,  Paris,  Alfred,  Yarmouth,  Gorham,  and  Saco. 


From  Waterways  to  Airways  71 

It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  throughout  the  period  of  the  stagecoach, 
and  even  after  the  coming  of  the  railroads,  the  most  important  means  of 
transportation  for  freight  and  passengers  was  by  water. 

Railroad  transportation  in  Maine  is  distinguished  in  that  one  of  the 
first  railroads  hi  New  England  began  operating  between  Bangor  and  Old 
Town  in  1836.  Another  early  road,  running  from  Whitney ville  to 
Machiasport,  was  begun  four  years  later;  one  of  its  primitive  locomotives, 
'  The  Lion,'  is  now  in  the  Crosby  Laboratory  at  the  University  of  Maine. 
The  Moosehead  Lake  Railway,  a  two-mile  narrow-gauge  road  at  North- 
east Carry,  remained  the  crudest  in  the  State  until  it  was  destroyed  by  the 
fires  of  blueberry  pickers  in  1862.  Locomotion  was  provided  by  draft 
animals,  the  tracks  were  originally  fif ty-and  sixty-foot  pine  logs,  and  the 
first  wheels  were  merely  wooden  disks  of  pine.  A  charter  had  been  issued 
to  the  Portland,  Saco  and  Portsmouth  Railroad  coincidentally  with  that 
of  the  Bangor-Old  Town  line,  but  the  former  did  not  begin  operating 
until  1842. 

Within  the  next  half-century,  there  were  thirty-one  railroads,  including 
branch  lines,  in  the  State.  Of  the  roads  operating  at  that  time  which  are 
still  in  use,  the  Atlantic  and  St.  Lawrence  division  of  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway  between  Portland  and  Montreal  was  opened  to  travel  in  1853. 
The  story  of  how  Portland  wrested  from  Boston  the  position  as  Atlantic 
terminus  for  this  road  is  one  of  the  most  curious  in  Maine's  railroad 
history.  The  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  in  Maine  was  completed  in 
1873,  and  the  majority  of  the  roads  within  the  State  began  operating  in 
the  quarter-century  between  1850  and  1875.  The  Consolidated  Maine 
Central  Railroad  in  1881  comprised  the  Portland  and  Kennebec  Railroad, 
between  Portland  and  Brunswick,  Augusta,  and  Bath;  the  Somerset  and 
Kennebec  Railroad,  between  Augusta  and  Skowhegan;  the  Androscoggin 
and  Kennebec  Railroad,  between  Danville  and  Waterville,  and  the 
extension  between  Danville  and  Cumberland;  the  Penobscot  and  Ken- 
nebec Railroad,  between  Waterville  and  Bangor;  the  Androscoggin  Rail- 
road, between  Brunswick  and  Leeds  Junction  and  Lewis  ton;  and  the 
Leeds  and  Farmington  Railroad,  between  Leeds  Junction  and  Farmington. 
Leased  roads  at  the  time  were  the  Belfast  and  Moosehead  Lake  line 
between  Belfast  and  Burnham,  and  the  Dexter  and  Newport  Railroad. 

The  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  provides  train  and  bus  service  between 
Boston  and  Portland,  where  connections  are  made  with  the  Maine 
Central  Railroad  and  busses  to  all  points  in  Maine  with  the  exception  of 
Aroostook  County,  which  is  served  by  the  trains  and  busses  of  the  Bangor 
and  Aroostook  Railroad.  Service  between  Maine  and  Canada  is  furnished 


72  Maine :  The  General  Background 

by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  a  part  of  the  transcontinental  Canadian 
National  Railroads,  and  by  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway. 

Maine  railroads  now  operate  over  more  than  two  thousand  miles  of 
track.  Accelerated  schedules  and  an  increasing  number  of  modern  air- 
conditioned  coaches  add  to  the  convenience  and  comfort  of  the  traveler. 
The  railroads  are  of  especial  advantage  here  during  the  winter  months, 
when  highway  travel  is  occasionally  uncertain  and  hazardous.  Special 
trains  are  at  the  disposal  of  visitors  to  Maine's  summer  camps  and  resorts, 
while  '  snow  trains '  and  other  winter  accommodations  have  been  added  to 
the  system.  Electric  railways  are  on  the  decline,  but  nearly  two  hundred 
miles  of  this  type  of  transportation  are  still  in  operation. 

Steamboat  transportation  antedated  the  railroad  by  more  than  a 
decade,  the  steamboat  '  Kennebec '  making  a  trip  between  Portland  and 
North  Yarmouth  in  August,  1822.  Two  years  later  the  'Patent,'  ' strong 
and  commodious  and  elegantly  fitted  up  for  passengers/  began  running 
between  Portland  and  Boston.  Steamboat  lines  gradually  became  more 
numerous,  and  before  very  long  steamers  were  touching  at  nearly  all  the 
important  coastal  and  river  towns.  Boats  even  steamed  up  the  Kennebec 
as  far  as  Waterville,  and  competition  became  so  keen  that  at  one  time  the 
fare  between  that  city  and  Boston  was  only  one  dollar.  One  of  the  earliest 
iron  steamships  in  America,  the  'Bangor,'  was  built  in  1845  to  run  be- 
tween Bangor  and  Boston.  Trans-Atlantic  transportation  by  steam  first 
affected  Maine  when  boats  began  plying  between  Liverpool  and  Portland 
in  1853.  Water  transportation  to  the  latter  port  reached  its  height  in  the 
fifties,  with  two  hundred  and  forty-six  sailing  vessels  and  12  steamships 
calling  at  Portland  regularly.  Among  the  larger  steamship  lines,  the 
Portland  Steam  Packet  Company,  the  Maine  Steamship  Company,  the 
International  Steamship  Company,  the  Kennebec  Steam  Navigation 
Company,  the  Bath-Boothbay  Steamship  Company,  and  the  Boston- 
Bangor  Steamship  Company  eventually  became  associated  as  the 
Eastern  Steamship  Lines.  Previous  to  the  World  War,  the  Allan,  Leyland, 
and  White  Star  trans- Atlantic  steamship  lines  operated  out  of  Portland, 
but  this  traffic  has  been  discontinued. 

The  handicaps  of  climate  and  distance  have  been  progressively  over- 
come, and  today  Maine  is  well  served  by  modern  and  efficient  means  of 
transportation.  Much  of  the  State  which  could  not  be  reached  by  highway 
a  quarter  of  a  century  ago  is  now  accessible.  Generally  speaking,  there  is  a 
concentration  of  roads  in  the  southern  half  of  the  State,  but  more  remote 
sections  are  rapidly  being  opened  to  automobile  traffic.  Although  the 
majority  of  the  roads  are  town-built  or  third  class,  the  greater  number  of 


From  Waterways  to  Airways  73 

the  many  highways  improved  within  the  last  two  decades  have  been 
gravel-surfaced;  and  in  addition,  there  are  several  hundred  miles  of  con- 
crete roadway.  An  extensive  motor  freight  service  is  on  the  increase  in 
Maine,  and  more  than  a  score  of  intrastate  and  interstate  bus  lines 
provide  highway  transportation. 

Water  transportation  to  and  from  Maine  has  fallen  off  to  an  alarming 
extent  from  its  former  estate.  Freight  cargoes  are  today  but  a  small 
fraction  of  those  carried  in  the  past,  when  imports  and  exports  sometimes 
amounted  to  tens  of  millions  of  tons  annually.  With  the  exception  of  a 
few  local  steamship  lines,  passenger  traffic  by  water  completely  died  out 
when  the  Eastern  Steamship  Lines  completed  their  summer  service  be- 
tween New  York  and  Bar  Harbor  for  good  in  1936.  Efforts  are  being 
made  to  revive  the  decadent  shipping  industry,  and  to  emphasize  the 
State's  advantages  in  harbors  and  navigable  rivers  as  well  as  its  relative 
proximity  to  European  ports. 

The  most  recent  of  all  forms  of  transportation  is  represented  in  Maine 
by  the  Boston  and  Maine  and  Central  Vermont  Airways,  which  provides 
daily  plane  service  to  major  points.  There  are  eleven  airports,  three  of 
which  are  lighted  with  directional  radio  range  beams.  Other  airports 
and  landing  fields  are  being  built.  Five  beacon  towers  on  the  Bangor- 
Boston  route  are  in  process  of  construction  (1937).  By  January,  1937,  the 
Works  Progress  Administration  had  supervised  the  painting  of  one  hun- 
dred and  eight  town  markers,  airport  symbols,  and  meridian  markers 
throughout  Maine.  Maine's  inland  waterways  —  the  same  rivers,  lakes, 
and  ponds  which  once  served  the  Indians  —  are  of  particular  value  to 
aviators  and  to  those  who  wish  to  reach  those  sections  of  the  State  which 
are  practically  inaccessible  by  other  means  of  transportation.  Efforts  are 
under  way  to  make  Portland  the  Atlantic  terminus  for  a  projected  trans- 
oceanic air  service. 

From  Indian  trails  to  airways,  transportation  in  Maine  has  developed 
along  lines  which  parallel  those  of  other  States.  The  means  used  have 
been  identical  with  those  all  over  the  nation;  only  in  particular  aspects  as 
i  nfluenced  by  its  natural  setting  and  climate  has  Maine  differed. 


RACIAL      ELEMENTS 


AT  THE  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century,  Maine's  population  was 
representative  of  English,  French,  Scotch-Irish,  Welsh,  Irish,  Dutch, 
German,  and  Acadian  French  stock.  Men  from  western  England  began 
group  settlement  of  the  province  as  early  as  1623  at  Kittery,  though  there 
had  been  scattered  settlers  in  the  territory  before  that  year.  This  stock 
combined  with  that  of  the  Scotch-Irish,  who  followed  soon  after,  to  pro- 
duce that  shrewd,  dry,  somewhat  dour  type  known  as  the  Yankee  —  a 
name  which  later  came  to  be  applied  to  all  New  Englanders  of  this  same 
general  ancestry.  These  people  weathered  the  protracted  Indian  wars, 
and  their  settlements  grew  slowly  but  steadily  along  the  coast.  By  1662 
there  had  begun,  as  well,  a  gradual  infiltration  of  Quaker  settlers,  whose 
frugal  and  peace-loving  ways  have  helped  to  mold  the  Maine  character. 

In  1740,  General  Samuel  Waldo  imported  forty  families  from  Brunswick 
and  Saxony  to  settle  in  Waldoboro,  supplementing  a  Moravian  colony 
established  there  a  year  earlier;  and  succeeding  years  brought  more 
Germans  to  this  section  of  Maine.  Many  of  them,  however,  later  em- 
igrated elsewhere.  Dresden  was  settled  by  German  Lutherans,  accom- 
panied by  French  and  Dutch  immigrants  of  the  same  faith. 

Irish  settlers  were  especially  plentiful  in  York,  Lincoln,  and  Cumber- 
land Counties;  it  was  they  who  gave  Limerick  its  name,  after  the  city  in 
the  old  country.  In  1808,  Irish  Catholics  were  numerous  enough  in  the 
vicinity  of  Damariscotta  to  build  a  place  of  worship,  now  the  oldest 
Roman  Catholic  church  building  in  New  England. 

The  French,  from  their  early  but  unsuccessful  settlement  of  1604,  held 
control  of  the  land  east  of  the  Penobscot  River  until  1759,  when  they 
relinquished  all  their  claims  in  what  is  now  Maine.  At  one  time  this 
territory  had  been  controlled  by  the  New  Amsterdam  Dutch,  who  were 
driven  out  only  when  the  French  returned  in  stronger  force.  Although 
the  French  were  not  active  colonists,  many  of  the  Huguenot  settlers  early 
gained  prominence  in  Maine.  Today,  especially  in  the  coastal  towns, 
there  still  live  members  of  the  old  French  Protestant  families  who  strive 
proudly  to  keep  their  blood  and  their  tongue  as  purely  French  as  when 
their  ancestors  first  came  here.  These  people  are  not  to  be  confused  with  the 
Canadian  French,  nor  the  latter  with  the  Acadians  who,  refusing  to  swear 


Racial  Elements  75 


allegiance  to  England  or  Canada,  settled  along  the  St.  John  River  when 
they  were  exiled  from  their  homes  in  Nova  Scotia.  Many  of  these 
people  still  preserve  intact  their  language,  religion,  and  customs. 

In  the  middle  decades  of  the  nineteenth  century,  a  flood  of  westward 
emigration  from  Maine  aroused  fears  for  the  future  and  led  to  a  venture 
in  colonization.  A  group  of  Swedish  settlers  was  imported  in  1870,  their 
colony  being  known  as  New  Sweden.  Their  enthusiasm  brought  more 
settlers  of  the  same  nationality  after  them,  and  Stockholm  shortly  came 
into  being. 

As  a  result  of  the  fact  that  Maine  has  no  schools  for  industrial  training, 
notwithstanding  the  National  Government's  offer  to  pay  half  the  cost  of 
trade  schools,  there  has  been  since  1869  until  recent  years  a  continual 
importation  of  workmen  from  Scotland  and  England,  and  from  the 
French-speaking  sections  of  Canada,  for  specialized  labor  in  the  State's 
factories  and  mills. 

Northern  European  peoples,  particularly  Finns,  have  joined  the 
Canadian  French  in  the  lumbering  industry;  and  Norwegians,  Swedes, 
and  Icelanders  are  engaged  in  the  coastal  regions  in  fishing,  shipping,  and 
quarrying.  The  many  Russians,  Lithuanians,  and  Poles  who  live  in 
Maine  have,  like  the  Finns,  settled  most  thickly  in  Knox  County. 

The  growth  of  the  cities  has  brought  to  the  State  a  large  number  of 
Jews,  Italians,  Greeks,  and  Syrians,  most  of  whom  live  in  Waterville  and 
Millinocket;  and  a  scattering  of  other  southern  European  nationalities, 
along  with  some  Albanians,  Turks,  and  Orientals. 

Maine's  small  Negro  population,  numbering  about  one  thousand,  is 
chiefly  resident  in  Bangor  and  Portland.  Most  of  these  Negroes  are 
descendants  of  the  servants  of  wealthy  landowners  and  shipping  families 
of  post-Revolutionary  days.  They  have,  in  some  instances,  intermarried 
with  Indians,  who  today  slightly  outnumber  them;  and  to  some  extent 
also  with  whites,  particularly  in  certain  more  remote  coastal  sections. 

The  people  of  present-day  Maine  are  predominantly  of  English-Scotch- 
Irish  ancestry,  with  a  generous  proportion  of  French,  and  in  lesser  degree 
of  German,  blood.  Most  of  the  other  nationalities  represented  are  as  yet 
more  or  less  unassimilated.  The  Canadian  French,  who  constitute  about 
one-eighth  of  the  State's  total  population,  have  lived  in  Maine  since 
earliest  times,  yet  they  still  keep  their  racial  individuality,  attending 
French  churches  and  French  schools.  The  census  of  1930  gave  the  num- 
ber of  French-Canadians  and  Canadians  living  in  Maine  as  more  than 
73,000. 


FOLKLORE      AND      FOLKWAYS 


BESIDES  a  considerable  body  of  folklore  peculiar  to  Maine,  the  State 
also  possesses  a  larger  body  of  racially  inherited  lore,  particularly  that  of 
Great  Britain  and  of  France.  The  comparative  isolation  and  independ- 
ence of  many  a  *  down-East '  community  have  helped  to  preserve  not  only 
old  customs,  beliefs,  and  legends,  but  even  characteristics  of  speech  that 
hark  back  to  Elizabethan  or  earlier  days.  The  familiar  use  of  the  word 
'  butt'ry '  for  'pantry,'  and  of  the  old  Anglo-Saxon  word  'gore'  as  a  unit  of 
land  measurement,  are  obvious  examples. 

Maine  is  rich  in  an  inherited  knowledge  of  herbs  and  cure-alls,  spells, 
weather  signs,  and  omens  which  has  gradually  become  characteristic  of 
most  rural  sections  through  the  country,  and  therefore  does  not  require 
treatment  as  a  cultural  feature  peculiar  to  Maine  or  even  to  New  Eng- 
land. In  sending  forth  pioneers  to  build  up  new  territories  to  the  west, 
Maine  and  its  neighboring  States  contributed  as  well  a  great  treasury  of 
saws  and  sayings,  songs  and  stories,  which  became  a  part  of  the  common 
heritage  in  far  distant  regions,  and  are  now  only  Maine's  or  New  Eng- 
land's as  the  sociological  or  literary  scholar  may  trace  them  back  to  their 
original  source.  Nevertheless,  there  is  still  a  good  deal  of  folklore,  much 
of  it  as  yet  unrecorded,  that  is  indigenous  to  the  Pine  Tree  State. 

There  was  a  time  in  Maine  when  nearly  everybody  sang  and  composed 
his  own  songs.  And  he  who  was  especially  gifted  as  singer  or  story-teller 
was  a  person  of  consequence  in  his  community,  like  the  minstrel  of  an 
older  day.  It  was  as  if  the  unlettered  populace  unconsciously  sought  and 
found  in  this  way  an  esthetic  relief  from  the  harsh  facts  of  their  daily 
existence.  As  a  result,  there  gradually  came  into  being  many  stories  and 
poems,  some  of  them  local  and  temporal,  some  universal  and  lasting. 
They  were  a  sort  of  communal  product,  just  as  were  the  ancient  English 
and  Scottish  ballads  that  are  still  recited  or  sung  by  many  Maine  folk; 
and  they  originated  wherever  men  came  together,  in  logging  camps  in  the 
deep  woods  and  in  fo'c'sles  on  the  sea.  Verse  or  prose,  they  were  passed 
on  and  further  embellished  by  denizens  of  the  village  store  or  by  idlers  on 
the  lee  side  of  a  wharf  whittling  shavings  in  the  sun  and  passing  plug  or 
jug  from  mouth  to  mouth.  This  material  is  a  heritage  not  widely  known 
today,  even  in  Maine  itself. 


Folklore  and  Folkways  77 

Maine  lore,  particularly  that  of  the  lumberman,  has  been  best  recorded 
in  the  books  of  Mrs.  Fannie  Hardy  Eckstorm.  Her  'Minstrelsy  of 
Maine,'  a  collection  of  folk-songs  and  ballads  native  to  the  State,  pre- 
serves much  of  this  rich  inheritance.  No  anthology  of  American  balladry 
or  sea  chanteys  is  without  its  share  of  Maine's  songs  and  poems.  Most  of 
the  ballads  are  the  recordings  of  actual  or  reputed  happenings.  A  hitherto 
unpublished  example  is  'The  Mark  Bachelder  Tragedy,'  which  begins  as 
follows: 

'Twas  on  December  twenty-fifth, 

A  time  not  long  ago; 

An  awful  tragedy  was  played 

In  the  town  of  Sebago. 

It  was  at  Leslie  Kenison's 

Upon  a  Christmas  night ; 

That  then  and  there  these  persons  met, 

To  drink,  and  dance,  and  fight. 

And  one  Mark  Bachelder  was  there, 
The  bully  of  the  town; 
And  this  man,  Leslie  Kenison, 
Was  bound  to  knock  him  down. 

So  Kenison  did  seize  a  stake, 
And  struck  him  on  the  head; 
Inflicting  wicked,  cruel  blows, 
Until  they  thought  him  dead. 

They  dragged  his  lifeless  form  away, 
And  quickly  put  him  in  his  sleigh; 
Started  his  horse  and  sent  him  home, 
There  to  freeze  and  die  alone. 

Detectives  investigate  the  crime;  Bachelder  is  buried  by  a  grieving  fam- 
ily; and  Kenison  is  sentenced  to  four  years  in  prison.  The  convict's  part- 
ing words  are  familiar  ones: 

And  now,  young  men  and  maidens  all, 
Take  warning  thus  by  me; 
And  e'er  abide  on  virtue's  side, 
And  shun  bad  company. 

Other  ballads  there  are  of  greater  poetic  excellence,  no  doubt,  though 
most,  of  them  have  now  been  collected  and  published.  All  have  a  strong 
popular  appeal.  Many  of  the  more  exciting  are  concerned  with  local 


78  Maine:  The  General  Background 

heroes,  whose  feats  of  strength  or  skill  have  become  legendary  —  as,  for 
example,  John  Ross,  the  big  boss  of  the  Penobscot  drive.  But  more  often 
the  fabulous  stories  are  told  in  prose  form.  And  tall  tales  they  are !  There 
was  the  man  who  shot  five  bears  with  one  bullet,  the  man  who  shot  one 
bear  for  each  day  in  the  year,  the  man  who  invented  the  slow  bullet,  and 
the  man  who  fashioned  a  curved  rifle-barrel  so  efficient  that  when  he  shot 
from  his  door  he  had  to  pull  in  his  head  to  escape  the  bullet  coming 
around  the  house. '  These  stories  have  survived  to  whet  the  imaginations 
of  contemporary  narrators,  such  as  that  member  of  the  famous  Coffin 
family  who  invented  doughnuts  that  turned  themselves  over  in  the  cook- 
ing fat  and  jumped  out  when  they  were  done. 

There  is,  however,  a  characteristic  sort  of  Yankee  humor  which 
manifests  itself  more  in  understatement  than  in  exaggeration.  This 
humor  plays  a  prominent  part  in  everyday  life.  In  Maine  great  expanses 
of  water  which  elsewhere  would  be  known  as  lakes  are  called  ponds.  A 
housewife  says:  ' Don't  know  what  I've  got;  I'll  just  scratch  around  and 
see,  but  I'm  afraid  there's  not  a  thing  to  eat  in  the  house '  —  and  then 
goes  on  to  produce  a  meal  of  exceptional  size  and  quality.  Many  of 
Maine's  own  writers  have  capitalized  on  this  sober-sided  Yankee  wit,  and 
none  more  successfully  than  he  who  was  known  as  Artemus  Ward. 

What  commonly  passes  for  the  Maine  vernacular  in  print  and  on  stage, 
screen,  and  radio  is  a  libel  on  the  'down-Easter's'  manner  of  speaking. 
In  reality,  there  are  as  many  Maine  dialects  as  there  are  States  in  the 
Union.  A  skilled  listener  acquainted  with  Maine  speech  should  be  able  to 
identify  the  community  to  which  any  Maine  person  speaking  his  home 
dialect  belongs.  Variations  in  the  vernacular  between  one  community  or 
region  and  another  do  not  lie  in  the  use  or  misuse  of  words,  but  in  changes 
of  inflection  and  timbre.  Thus  it  is  next  to  impossible  accurately  to 
reproduce  the  Maine  vernacular  in  printed  words.  The  common  speech 
of  Maine  people  of  English-Scottish-Irish  stock  is  probably  as  nearly 
pure,  in  being  free  from  corruptions  and  in  retaining  old  forms  intact,  as 
any  of  this  country,  with  the  possible  exception  of  that  of  the  Carolina 
and  Kentucky  mountaineers.  The  peculiarities  of  Maine  speech  are  its 
nasal  qualities,  slurred  enunciation,  and  dropped  syllables,  with  a 
hesitancy  in  delivery. 

The  Maine  Yankee  is  not  nearly  so  taciturn  as  a  stranger  might  at  first 
consider  him,  but  it  is  a  rule  that  words  are  not  to  be  wasted.  Get  him 
talking,  however,  and  he  will  tell  you  stories  a-plenty.  Less  restricted  to 
Maine  than  woods  yarns  and  the  ballad,  but  none  the  less  typical,  are 
tales  of  sea  serpents,  t  ha'nted '  houses,  ghosts,  and  witches.  Every  year 


Folklore  and  Folkways  79 

serious  church-going  people  attest  to  the  truth  of  such  mysteries  and 
monsters,  and  an  almost  limitless  volume  of  material  could  be  gathered 
about  them.  Although  there  was  a  time  when  Maine  witches  were  given 
their  'comeuppance,'  therapeutic  magic  has  been  practiced  throughout  the 
State  to  this  day.  Indian  legends  and  pirate  stories  abound.  Corners, 
fields,  and  brooklets  have  their  own  peculiar  names  and  histories.  Here 
occurred  an  Indian  massacre;  there  a  witch  was  tried  and  hanged;  at  this 
crossroads  a  suicide  is  buried;  no  one  lives  in  that  house  because  footsteps 
are  heard  there  in  the  night.  The  shore  is  pock-marked  with  holes  dug  by 
hunters  of  treasure,  who  usually  toiled  in  vain;  while  those  who  chanced 
to  find  the  wealth  in  blackened  pot  or  ancient  chest  are  said  to  have  lost  it 
again  through  the  machinations  of  the  Evil  One,  or  to  have  come  to  some 
grim  and  sudden  end. 

People  in  Maine  have  their  own  ways  of  doing  things.  And  if  those 
ways  are  not  always  the  most  efficient,  there  is  usually  a  reason  for  them. 
While  the  reason  may  in  many  cases  seem  to  rest  only  upon  superstition 
or  even  narrow-mindedness,  it  has  generally  a  deeper  and  firmer  founda- 
tion. Any  bit  of  folk-wisdom  —  a  cure,  a  weather  or  planting  sign  —  does 
not  spring  into  being  spontaneously.  It  is  knowledge  gained  from  ex- 
perience, tried  and  found  true  by  generations;  therefore  it  is  to  be  trusted. 


EDUCATION     AND 
RELIGION 


EDUCATION 

SUPERFICIALLY  at  least,  the  early  history  of  education  in  Maine  is  for 
the  most  part  identical  with  that  of  education  in  Massachusetts.  But  the 
settlers  of  Massachusetts  showed  a  veneration  for  learning,  and  rapidly 
developed  an  excellent  school  system;  whereas  the  settlers  of  Maine,  far 
more  widely  scattered,  long  harassed  by  the  Indian  wars,  and  of  less  wealth 
and  more  primitive  interests,  were  largely  indifferent  to  the  value  of 
education  and  the  need  for  its  development.  When  school  taxes  became  a 
real  burden  to  the  communities,  '  moving  schools '  were  organized  which 
traveled  from  town  to  town,  spending  only  a  few  weeks  in  each  place. 
The  situation  was  greatly  improved  after  1789,  when  Massachusetts 
adopted  a  law  requiring  liberal  instruction  for  all  children  and  college  or 
university  education  for  schoolmasters.  After  achieving  statehood  in 
1820,  Maine  modeled  her  own  school  laws  upon  those  of  Massachusetts. 

The  first  real  school  in  Maine  was  the  mission  established  on  the 
Kennebec  in  1696  by  Father  Sebastian  Rasle,  whose  valuable  work  among 
the  Indians  suffered  greatly  from,  and  was  finally  ended  by,  the  depreda- 
tions of  the  English  colonists.  Other  early  Jesuit  teachers  were  Father 
Romagne  at  Passamaquoddy  and  Father  Bapst  at  Indian  Island. 

In  1794,  the  Massachusetts  General  Court  granted  a  charter  to 
Bowdoin  College  at  Brunswick.  Academies  were  founded  at  Hallowell 
and  Berwick  in  1791,  and  by  1821  there  were  twenty-five  academies  in  the 
State.  From  this  beginning,  higher  education  in  Maine  has  progressed 
slowly  but  steadily.  The  free  high  school  law  of  1873  brought  about  the 
opening  of  some  one  hundred  and  fifty  high  schools  in  the  State.  In  1863, 
a  bill  was  passed  which  established  normal  schools  at  Farmington  and 
Castine;  and  the  Madawaska  Training  School  was  established  in  1878  at 
Fort  Kent  expressly  for  the  preparation  of  teachers  to  instruct  the  French 
settlers,  exiled  Acadians  from  Nova  Scotia,  in  the  St.  John  Valley.  Today 
there  are  six  teachers'  training  schools  in  Maine,  and  more  than  sixty 


Education  and  Religion  81 

private  schools  and  academies  in  good  standing,  including  parochial, 
Jewish,  and  Quaker  schools  and  two  Catholic  academies  for  girls.  The 
Portland  Hebrew  School  was  founded  in  1884.  Oak  Grove  Seminary  in 
Vassalboro,  a  Friends'  school  for  girls  founded  in  1849,  is  now  nationally 
famous. 

The  rural  or  district  school,  heralded  in  American  song  and  story  as  the 
cradle  of  the  nation's  greatness,  has  always  been  a  problem  in  Maine. 
Modern  educators  have  exploded  the  myth  of  the  little  red  schoolhouse; 
and  intelligent  people  no  longer  expect  one  teacher,  too  often  inadequately 
trained,  to  instruct  from  six  to  eight  grades  in  all  the  required  subjects 
with  any  degree  of  success.  It  is  increasingly  difficult  to  find  good 
teachers  willing  to  undertake  such  work,  and  the  communities  themselves 
are  often  unable  to  support  their  schools  adequately.  And  yet  all  over  the 
State  today  there  are  many  such  schools,  little  changed  in  the  last  fifty  or 
seventy-five  years.  In  1937,  President  K.  C.  M.  Sills  of  Bowdoin  College 
charged  that  Maine's  schools  have  been  going  steadily  backward  in  the 
past  ten  years.  He  said  that  between  two  hundred  and  three  hundred 
schools  in  the  State  operate  on  an  annual  budget  of  less  than  three  hun- 
dred and  sixty  dollars,  and  that  a  smaller  proportion  of  the  State  income 
is  now  spent  on  its  schools  than  was  spent  one  hundred  years  ago.  There 
is  certainly  need  for  educational  pioneering  here  today,  particularly  in  the 
more  thinly  populated  regions. 

Maine  has  four  old  and  important  colleges.  The  University  of  Maine, 
at  Orono,  was  founded  as  an  agricultural  school  in  1865,  became  co-educa- 
tional in  1872,  and  was  named  the  University  of  Maine  in  1897.  It  main- 
tains a  faculty  extension  service,  operating  largely  in  rural  areas.  Bowdoin 
College  at  Brunswick,  incorporated  in  1794,  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most 
prominent  of  the  country's  smaller  liberal  arts  colleges.  Colby  College,  at 
Waterville,  was  chartered  in  1813  as  the  Maine  Literary  and  Theological 
Institute.  From  1831  to  1842,  as  Waterville  College,  it  was  one  of  the  first 
institutions  in  the  country  to  experiment  with  manual  training;  women 
were  admitted  as  students  in  1871;  and  it  acquired  its  present  name  in 
1899.  Bates  College,  at  Lewiston,  now  non-sectarian,  is  an  outgrowth  of 
the  Maine  State  Seminary,  founded  in  1855  by  Free  Baptists.  It  became 
a  co-educational  college  in  1864.  Considerably  more  than  half  of  its 
alumni  have  entered  the  teaching  profession. 

Among  the  State's  miscellaneous  educational  institutions  are  the 
Bangor  Theological  Seminary,  established  in  1814;  Nasson  College, 
founded  at  Springvale  in  1912  for  the  practical  training  of  young  women, 
the  first  chartered  college  for  women  in  the  State;  Westbrook  Junior 


82  Maine:  The  General  Background 

College  for  Women,  in  Portland,  the  only  school  of  its  kind  in  the  State, 
founded  as  an  academy  in  1831  and  attaining  junior  college  status  in  1925; 
and  the  Maine  School  for  the  Deaf,  the  School  of  Fine  and  Applied  Art, 
and  the  Peabody  Law  School,  all  at  Portland. 


RELIGION 

The  first  Christian  missionary  to  Maine  was  the  Jesuit  priest,  Nicholas 
Aubry  or  d'Aubri,  who  preached  to  the  Indians  at  Dochet  Island  in  1604. 
The  first  Protestant  clergyman  was  the  Reverend  Richard  Seymour, 
minister  at  the  unsuccessful  Popham  Colony  of  1607.  Early  Jesuit 
churches  and  schools  were  built  in  the  wilderness  by  Gabriel  Druillettes 
(1646)  and  Father  Rasle  (1696),  both  unusual  for  their  scholarship  and 
progressive  ideas.  Most  of  the  Abnaki  tribe  were  converted  to  Christian- 
ity by  these  men,  and  Father  Rasle  wielded  tremendous  influence  over  the 
Indians.  Partly  from  fear  of  his  power  and  partly  from  bigotry,  he  was 
persecuted  and  eventually  killed  by  the  English.  But  between  him  and 
his  Protestant  contemporary,  John  Eliot,  there  developed  a  mutual 
tolerance  and  esteem.  Eliot's  Indian  converts  at  that  time  were  spread 
widely  through  southern  Maine.  Most  of  the  present-day  Indians,  how- 
ever, retain  a  heritage  of  Jesuit  teaching  and  are  staunch  Catholics. 

Today,  although  the  Congregational,  Baptist,  Methodist,  and  (in  some 
cities)  Roman  Catholic  churches  are  strongest  in  Maine,  nearly  every 
denomination  in  the  country  is  represented  here.  There  are,  besides  those 
mentioned,  Episcopalian,  Free  Baptist,  Unitarian,  Universalist,  Advent 
Christian,  Friends,  Seventh  Day  Adventist,  Christian,  Latter  Day 
Saints,  Christian  Science,  Hebrew,  Presbyterian,  Greek  Orthodox, 
Lutheran,  Evangelical,  and  '  Church  of  God '  churches  in  Maine.  Many 
unusual  sects,  some  of  them  peculiar  to  Maine  alone,  still  flourish  through- 
out the  State,  often  in  segregated  colonies  where  they  are  free  to  worship 
according  to  their  particular  tenets,  unmolested  by  curious  and  more 
conventional  neighbors. 

The  Shakers,  or  members  of  the  '  United  Society  of  Believers  in  Christ's 
Second  Appearing,'  organized  some  of  the  first  religious  colonies  in  Maine. 
Their  settlements  at  Alfred  and  New  Gloucester,  established  in  1793,  were 
active  for  many  years.  The  Alfred  village  was  abandoned  in  1925,  and  is 
now  owned  and  occupied  by  a  Roman  Catholic  school  for  boys;  but  the 
New  Gloucester  settlement,  though  greatly  diminished,  still  continues. 


Education  and  Religion  83 

Shaker  doctrines  greatly  resemble  those  of  the  Quakers,  except  that  they 
hold  to  complete  celibacy.  They  recruit  new  members  by  adopting 
orphans  and  making  converts.  They  are  famous  for  their  piety  and 
industry,  and  are  always  valuable  citizens. 

Less  commonly  known  are  various  religious  societies  which  have  sprung 
up  in  Maine  from  time  to  time,  sometimes  gaining  wide  notice,  but  more 
often  subsiding  quietly  with  the  death  or  dispersal  of  their  founders. 
Maine  life  has  a  certain  frontier  quality  favorable  to  revivalistic  practices, 
and  a  Puritan  temper  in  its  people  seems  to  produce  zeal  and  fanaticism. 
Often  a  discontented  or  disqualified  pastor  of  an  organized  church  gathers 
together  a  small  flock  of  followers,  usually  good  but  ignorant  country  folk 
eager  for  a  faith  they  can  comprehend  and  a  leader  they  can  see,  and  thus 
a  sect  is  born.  Many  such  have  in  time  achieved  considerable  power  and 
influence. 

Among  the  oldest  of  the  religious  groups  peculiar  to  Maine  are  the 
Bullockites,  a  society  of  primitive  Baptists,  who  still  worship,  though  in- 
frequently, in  their  more  than  century-old  meeting  house  at  Porter  in 
Oxford  County.  Less  permanent  were  the  Higginsites  of  Carmel.  When 
it  became  known  that  their  leader,  the  Reverend  Mr.  Higgins,  was 
accustomed  to  drive  the  devil  from  children  of  the  sect  with  whips,  his 
fellow  citizens  decorated  him  with  tar  and  feathers  and  escorted  him  from 
their  town.  Shortly  thereafter  the  colony  was  discontinued.  In  Scarboro 
in  the  early  iSoo's  there  appeared  a  Scotch-Irish  preacher  named  Cochran, 
remarkable  for  an  irresistible  personality  and  a  singularly  sweet  voice. 
Under  his  leadership,  Cochranism  grew  and  flourished  all  through  York 
County  and  spread  into  New  Hampshire.  His  followers  gathered  each 
Sunday  in  the  woods  to  join  in  simple  rites  of  song  and  dance.  This  un- 
usual method  of  worship  in  an  age  of  bleak  Puritanism  achieved  under- 
standable popularity.  York  County  churches  were  soon  emptied,  and 
their  preachers  exhorted  vacant  pews  in  vain.  But  with  increasing 
strength,  Cochranism  more  openly  took  on  colors  strangely  resembling  free 
love.  This  the  righteous  were  not  long  in  suppressing.  Cochran  took 
himself  westward,  but  he  was  not  easily  forgotten. 

Perhaps  the  most  unusual  organization  of  all,  the  Palestine  Emigration 
Association,  came  into  being  in  1866.  Under  the  leadership  of  a  dis- 
credited Mormon  minister  named  Adams,  one  hundred  and  fifty-six 
crusaders  —  men,  women,  and  children  —  set  out  for  the  Holy  Land, 
proposing  c  to  commence  the  great  work  of  restoration  foretold  by  the  old 
prophets,  patriarchs,  and  apostles  as  well  as  by  our  Lord  himself.'  The 
expedition  sailed  from  Jonesport,  and  actually  arrived  and  founded  a 


84  Maine:  The  General  Background 

colony  in  Palestine  near  Jaffa,  where  they  were  beset  by  every  sort  of 
hardship.  The  leader  took  to  drink,  and  in  little  more  than  a  year  those  of 
the  band  who  had  survived  came  straggling  back  to  their  homes. 

But  this  was  not  the  only  crusade  from  Maine  to  the  Holy  Land.  The 
Sandfordites,  whose  temple,  Shiloh,  in  Durham,  is  now  a  famous  land- 
mark, once  set  out  in  three  white  ships  to  visit  Jerusalem.  They  were 
forced  to  return  in  great  distress,  however,  when  the  Lord  failed  to  send 
them  manna  in  lieu  of  the  provisions  they  had  not  believed  it  necessary  to 
provide.  Of  all  Maine's  religious  cults,  this  is  the  most  important,  since  it 
is  of  national  scope.  It  nourished  with  most  fervency  at  the  turn  of  the  last 
century,  as  the  'Church  of  the  Holy  Ghost  and  Us,'  under  the  Reverend 
Mr.  Sandford,  an  evangelist  with  convincing  powers.  He  was  later  jailed 
and  convicted  for  exploiting  his  flock,  many  members  of  which  were  found 
to  be  existing  in  extreme  misery  and  want.  Nevertheless,  the  church  is 
today  of  considerable  strength,  despite  its  rigorous  and  primitive  doc- 
trines. 

Other  and  less  conspicuous  manifestations  are  the  Free  Thinkers  of 
Fort  Fairneld;  'A  Wayside  People  of  the  Triune  God,'  established  at 
Litchfield  in  1900;  the  Reverend  F.  W.  O'Brien's  i Forward  Movement' 
and  People's  Church,  founded  at  Bath  in  1898;  and  the  more  recent 
Holiness  Church  at  Kingfield,  formed  by  a  group  of  literal  believers 
organized  to  oppose  the  liberal  trends  of  modern  times. 

Aside  from  religious  groups  interesting  mainly  because  of  their  oddity, 
Maine  can  boast  of  several  unusual  and  highly  valuable  organizations. 
The  first  'radio  parish'  in  the  United  States  was  formed  at  Portland  in 
1926,  broadcasting  over  Station  WCSH,  with  the  Reverend  H.  O.  Hough 
as  pastor.  The  broadcasts  are  designed  primarily  for  persons  who  have  no 
opportunity  to  attend  regular  church  services.  They  are  now  supported 
by  nine  denominations,  and  enjoy  great  popularity.  The  Young  People's 
Society  of  Christian  Endeavor  was  originated  at  Williston  Church  in 
Portland  by  the  Reverend  Francis  E.  Clark  in  1881.  The  Society's 
membership  now  numbers  several  millions,  and  Williston  Church  is  today 
a  shrine  for  Christian  Endeavorers  from  all  parts  of  the  world.  A  State 
Interdenominational  Commission,  organized  in  the  middle  of  last  century, 
came  into  prominence  under  President  William  DeWitt  Hyde  of  Bowdoin 
College.  It  has  been  copied  in  seventeen  other  States. 

The  Bible  Society  of  Maine  was  established  at  Portland  in  1809.  It  dis- 
tributes annually  thousands  of  copies  of  the  Bible,  printed  in  the  fifty 
different  languages  that  are  spoken  in  the  State.  Another  important 
organization  is  the  Female  Samaritan  Association  of  Portland,  founded  in 


Education  and  Religion  85 

1828,  and  maintaining  since  an  unbroken  record  of  splendid  philanthropic 
work  throughout  the  State.  A  more  modern  type  of  social  service  is  that 
provided  by  the  International  Institute  of  the  Y.W.C.A.  of  Biddeford 
and  Saco,  in  educating  the  foreign-born  in  domestic  and  practical  arts. 
The  Seacoast  Mission,  an  independent  philanthropic  enterprise  sup- 
ported by  individual  contributions,  has  its  headquarters  at  Bar  Harbor, 
and  by  means  of  its  boat  ' Sunbeam'  it  brings  religious,  educational, 
hospital,  and  recreational  facilities  to  the  inhabitants  (particularly  the 
children)  of  the  islands  and  lonely  outposts  of  the  Maine  coast.  Its  work 
at  Christmas  time  is  especially  praiseworthy. 


ARCHITECTURE 


MAINE  architecture  has  reflected  the  conservative,  substantial,  and 
practical  characteristics  of  Maine  people  from  the  time  the  first  roof 
was  raised  in  the  State  to  the  present  day.  Climatic  conditions  and 
the  abundance  of  superior-quality  wood,  sole  basis  of  construction 
until  about  the  nineteenth  century,  led  to  the  evolution  of  architectural 
types  in  Maine  common  to  the  New  England  States  as  a  whole.  Maine 
architecture  of  the  eighteenth  and  early  nineteenth  centuries  (and,  to  a 
considerable  degree,  that  of  today,  since  many  of  the  architectural  tradi- 
tions of  those  centuries  have  been  upheld)  was  highly  satisfactory  from 
an  esthetic  as  well  as  a  practical  point  of  view.  Eminently  suited  to  its 
time  and  its  place,  the  State's  architecture  expressed  a  people  and  a  way 
of  living,  it  'belonged'  to  its  particular  background  and  landscape.  Even 
though  their  designs  were  derived  elsewhere,  were  adaptations  of  existing 
forms,  the  better  architectural  examples  were  more  than  imitations;  they 
had  a  definite  indigenous  quality  peculiar  to  themselves.  A  sane  and 
humanized  relation  to  the  environment  characterized  the  development 
of  Maine's  architecture  from  period  to  period. 

It  is  assumed  that  the  earliest  Maine  dwellings  were  huts  of  branches, 
rushes,  turf,  and  thatch,  often  built  into  a  hillside,  such  as  were  found 
farther  south  in  the  early  seventeenth  century.  Such  dwellings  were 
familiar  to  England  in  that  period,  due  largely  to  the  scarcity  of  wood  for 
building  purposes.  Contrary  to  popular  belief,  the  log  house  or  cabin, 
which  is  still  found  here  occasionally,  was  not  native  to  Maine  or  New 
England.  The  type  was  unknown  in  England,  and  was  presumably  in- 
troduced to  America  towards  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century. 
English  half-timbered  methods  of  construction  were  employed  in  Maine, 
but  proved  unsatisfactory  due  to  extremes  in  temperature  and  excessive 
snows  and  rains. 

In  respect  to  the  two  major  standards  of  structural  beauty  and  prac- 
ticality, early  Maine  architecture  admirably  fulfilled  both  requirements. 
As  elsewhere  in  New  England,  native  architecture,  particularly  that  be- 
tween 1760  and  1820,  influenced  later  architecture  throughout  the  coun- 
try, although  it  had  little  effect  upon  any  other  than  domestic  design. 
Architectural  types  prevailing  in  the  State  until  well  into  the  nineteenth 


Architecture  87 


century  fall  into  several  divisions :  defensive  garrisons,  farm  houses,  manor 
houses,  meeting-houses,  public  buildings,  schools,  and  jails.  Considering 
the  long  period  of  intermittent  French  and  Indian  warfare,  extending 
from  1675  to  1763,  it  is  remarkable  that  there  are  any  existing  buildings 
which  were  erected  prior  to  1765.  The  need  for  protection  produced 
such  defensive  buildings  as  the  Mclntire  Garrison  House  (1660-90)  at 
York,  the  Fort  Western  blockhouses  (1754;  restored),  and  Fort  Halifax 
(1754)  at  Winslow,  in  which  simplicity,  strength  of  design,  and  defensive 
requirements  were  stressed.  The  Maine  garrison  house  or  blockhouse  was, 
in  effect,  an  adaptation  of  English  and  medieval  fortifications,  as  evi- 
denced by  such  a  feature  as  the  overhang,  which  made  it  possible  to 
protect  the  walls  beneath  by  firing  upon  the  enemy  from  the  projection 
of  the  second  story.  Of  all  the  architectural  types  in  Maine,  this  was  the 
slowest  to  change;  little  or  no  alteration  in  form  occurred  in  defensive 
buildings  between  the  Mclntire  Garrison  House  and  Fort  Edgecomb 
(1808). 

Because  of  the  rarity  of  existing  buildings  erected  before  1730,  it  is 
difficult  to  trace  the  early  architectural  development  in  Maine,  although 
it  doubtless  corresponded  to  that  of  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut. 
The  ordinary  farm  house  remained  unchanged  in  design  during  the  last 
three-quarters  of  the  eighteenth  century,  whereas  the  meeting-house 
underwent  clearly  defined  changes  between  1760  and  1820.  The  plan  of 
the  typical  Maine  house  was  patterned  after  that  farther  south,  the  type 
which  prevailed  throughout  the  State  during  most  of  the  eighteenth 
century  having  been  evolved  from  an  earlier  design  which  consisted  of 
one,  two,  or  three  rooms  with  a  central  chimney,  and  a  half -story  in  the  roof 
above.  The  characteristic  eighteenth-century  house  was  a  rectangular 
structure,  with  a  central  entrance  hall,  a  huge  central  chimney  (usually 
seven  or  eight  feet  square)  built  behind  the  stairs,  two  spacious  rooms  on 
either  side  of  the  hall,  a  central  kitchen  at  the  rear  of  the  chimney,  and 
two  small  rooms  filling  out  the  rear  corners  of  the  rectangle.  On  the 
second  floor  there  were  usually  two  large  rooms  at  the  front  of  the  house, 
called  '  chambers,'  and  two  small  corner  '  bedrooms '  at  the  rear  of  the  first 
floor.  A  rough  'lean- to'  was  often  added  afterward  at  the  rear  of  the 
house.  No  exact  architectural  balance  was  sought,  and  it  was  customary 
for  nearly  all  houses  to  be  built  with  the  front  facing  the  southern,  or 
warmer  and  more  protected,  side. 

The  framework  of  the  early  Maine  house  consisted  of  sills,  plates,  girts, 
and  'summers'  or  girders,  and  was  constructed  with  the  utmost  care. 
Timbers  were  hewn,  while  all  pieces  of  the  framework  were  broad-axed 


88  Maine:  The  General  Background 

or  adzed  until  nearly  as  smooth  as  if  they  had  been  planed.  Boards,  studs, 
and  light  joints  were  sawed;  joints  between  braces,  girts,  and  posts  were 
mortised  and  tenoned.  Roofs  were  commonly  gabled,  with  the  ridge 
parallel  to  the  road.  Roof  boarding  covered  the  roof  framework,  and 
at  an  early  date,  before  the  use  of  shingles,  roofs  were  occasionally 
thatched  with  river  sedge.  Ridgepoles  were  a  later  development,  a  ridge 
purlin,  or  horizontal  member,  being  used  on  the  early  buildings  to  support 
the  common  rafters.  With  the  exception  of  those  on  defensive  buildings, 
there  is  no  very  early  example  in  Maine  of  the  overhang. 

The  exteriors  of  eighteenth-century  houses  were  covered  with  clap- 
boards, with  or  without  sheathing.  No  outside  cornices  existed  in  the 
earlier  architecture,  although  subsequently  there  were  cornices  of  moder- 
ate projection  with  a  bed  mold.  These  gradually  became  elaborate,  bed 
molds  becoming  profusely  ornamented;  and  in  the  early  nineteenth  cen- 
tury, cornices  were  used  across  gabled  ends,  and  the  rake  molds  became  as 
heavy  as  horizontal  cornices.  Early  small  and  narrow  casement  windows 
were  replaced  by  double-hung  windows,  three  lights  (panes)  wide  by  five 
or  six  high,  and  later  by  still  wider  twelve-light  windows.  Much  of  the 
glass  used  was  imported.  Shutters  were  built  either  in  one  leaf,  covering 
the  entire  window  with  a  track  on  the  window  stool,  or  in  two  parts. 
Entrances  were  merely  frontispieces,  built  without  a  projecting  hood  or 
canopy  over  the  door,  and  were  of  three  types:  flat  entablature  (the 
horizontal  member  over  the  entrance),  pediment  and  broken  pediment 
(the  triangular  ornamental  space  over  the  doorway),  and  scrolled  pedi- 
ment. Sidelights  are  usually  associated  with  nineteenth-century  con- 
struction, while  the  use  of  the  broken  frieze  (that  section  of  the  en- 
tablature lying  between  architrave  and  cornice)  and  of  the  architrave  (the 
lowest  division  of  an  entablature)  above  fluted  pilasters  is  an  odd  de- 
parture from  classic  precedent.  Circular  heads  of  doorways  were  com- 
mon, while  elliptical  heads  occurred  after  iSoo.  Front  doors  were  broad 
and  low,  and  simple  molded  entablatures  with  pilasters  formed  the  usual 
design. 

The  interior  woodwork  of  front  rooms  in  the  eighteenth-  and  early 
nineteenth-century  houses  centered  about  the  fireplace,  the  fireplace 
wall  usually  being  paneled.  Two  broad  panels  appeared  over  the  fireplace 
itself,  and  an  elaborate  bolection  molding  surrounded  the  fireplace  open- 
ing. In  more  formal  houses,  the  moldings  and  horizontal  panels  were 
flanked  by  narrow  fluted  pilasters.  The  remaining  parts  of  the  fireplace 
wall  were  completed  with  vertical  panels  to  the  doorway,  and  a  small 
horizontal  panel  above  it.  Wood  cornices  gave  height  and  scale  to  the 


Architecture  89 


low-studded  rooms,  and  nearly  always  there  were  dadoes  the  height  of  the 
window  sills.  Staircase  newels  were  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  inches 
square,  and  skirt  moldings  were  cut  to  elaborate  and  interesting  forms. 
Hand-rail  moldings  were  often  mitered  to  form  the  top  of  newels,  and  the 
handrails  themselves  were  small  and  delicately  wrought.  The  bead  and 
bevel  molding  was  the  one  most  frequently  used,  serving  as  panel  mold 
for  interior  doors,  shutters,  wainscot,  dadoes,  paneling,  cupboards,  and 
outside  doors.  A  large  cove,  or  concave,  molding  was  characteristic  of 
outside  caps  of  windows;  while  some  form  of  cyma  recta,  a  molding  of 
reverse  curve  at  the  top  of  the  cornice,  was  commonly  the  dominant  ceil- 
ing molding. 

Cellars  in  early  Maine  buildings,  if  built  at  all,  were  usually  under  only 
part  of  the  house,  and  they  were  used  chiefly  for  the  storage  of  food. 
Cellar  walls  were  either  finished  with  mortar  of  a  poor  quality  or  left 
unfinished.  Chimneys  were  of  under-burned  brick  laid  in  puddled  clay, 
great  care  being  taken  in  the  construction  of  the  brickwork.  It  is  notable, 
however,  that  the  woodwork  of  many  old  houses  is  in  much  better  condi- 
tion than  the  masonry,  because  of  the  inferior  brick  and  mortar  that  had 
to  be  used.  Fireplaces  were  large,  their  hearths  finished  with  tiles  seven 
or  eight  inches  square.  Bricks  were  not  uniform  in  size  and  in  all  Colonial 
work  were  hand-made  —  as  in  the  McLellan  House  (1770-74)  at  Gorham. 
Flemish  bond  was  the  common  design  for  good  brickwork,  being  used 
especially  in  the  construction  of  important  facades. 

In  the  Colonial  period,  and  later,  iron  was  scarce  in  Maine  and  in  great 
demand.  Hardware  was  hand-wrought,  and  frequently  showed  much 
delicacy  and  refinement  of  design,  as  well  as  a  fine  sense  of  scale.  Hand- 
wrought  nails  were  of  two  types:  a  thin  pointed  nail  for  finishing  work, 
and  a  larger  and  stronger  nail  for  heavier  construction.  In  sharp  con- 
trast to  the  many  neatly  painted  white  homes  of  today  were  the  red- 
painted  or  unpainted  houses  of  an  earlier  period.  The  paint  first  used  on 
the  exteriors  was  usually  of  a  dark  red  color,  called  Indian  red,  in  which 
red  ocher  was  commonly  mixed  with  fish  oil.  Although  one  or  two  rooms 
might  be  painted,  only  the  well-to-do  could  afford  this  practice  until  well 
along  in  the  eighteenth  century.  Records  indicate  the  possible  use  of 
hangings  or  tapestries  in  the  homes  of  the  wealthy. 

The  characteristics  of  the  typical  Maine  house  before  the  period  of  the 
Greek  Revival  have  been  outlined.  The  more  pretentious  manor  houses, 
of  which  the  earliest  recorded  example  in  Maine  is  the  William  Pepperell 
House  (1682)  at  Kittery  Point,  were  somewhat  similar  in  general  archi- 
tectural plan,  but  were  larger  and  more  elaborate.  Other  examples  of  this 


90  Maine :  The  General  Background 

type  are  the  Sarah  Orne  Jewett  House  (1774)  at  South  Berwick,  and  the 
Lady  Pepperell  House  (1760)  and  Cutts  House  (1783)  at  Kittery  Point. 
Many  of  these  manor  houses  represented  precisely  what  the  term  implies: 
they  were  the  'big  houses'  in  the  English,  almost  feudal,  sense  of  the 
word,  the  centers  of  prosperity  and  culture.  Indeed,  several  of  the  pre- 
Revolutionary  landowners,  such  as  Dr.  Sylvester  Gardiner  of  Gardiner, 
were  to  all  intents  and  purposes  'lords  of  the  manor,'  operating  their 
estates  under  a  feudal  system  of  tenancy. 

Even  before  the  close  of  the  eighteenth  century,  Maine  had  a  con- 
siderable number  of  fine  mansions,  scattered  all  along  the  coast  and  on 
the  major  waterways;  and  after  1800,  houses  of  great  pretentiousness 
were  not  rare,  as  shipmasters  and  merchants  became  increasingly  wealthy. 
Many  Maine  houses  were  built  in  the  first  decade  of  the  nineteenth  cen- 
tury, an  important  period  in  residential  building  in  all  eastern  American 
cities.  Houses  at  Wiscasset,  which  was  then  at  the  height  of  its  prosperity, 
represented  the  'apogee  of  the  Georgian  style  as  the  culmination  of 
colonial  and  early  national  architecture.'  Visitors  to  Maine  often  express 
surprise  at  the  many  fine  old  houses  which  now  stand  in  isolated  sections 
of  the  coast.  The  explanation  is  that  at  the  time  of  their  erection  Maine 
was  still  a  predominantly  maritime  State  —  all  wealth  came  from  the 
sea.  Hence,  successful  Maine  men  commonly  built  their  beautiful  homes 
with  their  doorstep  on  the  shore  and  the  sea  for  their  front  yard.  When 
industrial  interests  turned  inland  and  transportation  developed  along 
highways  and  railroads,  many  mansions  became  isolated  because  of  their 
location  on  remote  peninsulas  all  along  the  coast. 

The  mansions  of  the  late  eighteenth  and  early  nineteenth  centuries  are 
characterized  by  larger  scale,  higher  ceilings,  and  more  elaborate  detail. 
It  is  possible  that  much  of  the  molding  and  other  interior  detail  of  modest 
houses  was  copied  and  simplified  from  the  more  pretentious  buildings. 
Maine  carpenters  and  carvers,  deriving  their  designs  for  moldings, 
cornices,  entablatures,  portals,  and  facades  from  English  patternbooks, 
nevertheless  brought  their  own  particular  skill  and  originality  to  bear  on 
their  work.  Adapting  English  Georgian  architecture  to  their  own  ends, 
the  architects  used  their  materials  intelligently,  retaining  a  delicacy  and 
refinement  of  treatment  even  after  the  style  became  ornate  and  heavy  in 
England.  Simplicity  without  crudeness  was  sought;  and  architectural 
charm  was  the  result. 

Cornices  on  the  more  elaborate  early  nineteenth-century  houses  show 
far  more  detail,  windows  are  larger  and  have  more  complex  moldings, 
and  the  entrance  motives  of  the  larger  homes  are  outstanding  features  of 


Architecture  91 


the  buildings.  Although  the  work  was  usually  executed  by  local  artisans, 
the  designs  were  far  richer  than  those  of  the  more  modest  buildings,  and 
the  influence  of  the  Renaissance  in  England  is  obvious.  Exceptionally 
fine  interior  work  is  found  in  the  mansions  built  between  1790  and  1820. 
The  elliptical  arch  for  door  heads  and  recesses  was  adopted,  the  Palladian 
window  appeared,  as  did  side  lights  in  connection  with  entrance  doorways, 
as  well  as  porches  and  free  columns.  More  generous  lighting,  space,  and 
circulation  were  provided.  Frequently,  however,  the  demands  of  economy 
produced  the  architectural  restraint  which  is  a  salient  element  of  the  best 
in  Colonial-Georgian  design,  such  as  is  found  in  the  William  Nickels 
House  (1807-08)  and  the  Abiel  Wood  House  (begun  1812)  at  Wiscasset. 
It  is  regrettable  that  more  houses  representative  of  the  period  under 
consideration,  as  well  as  those  of  a  few  decades  earlier,  are  not  extant. 
Fire,  such  as  that  which  destroyed  so  many  mansions  in  Portland  in  1775 
and  again  in  1866,  is  responsible  for  this  lack,  while  numbers  of  otherwise 
excellent  examples  have  been  marred  by  remodeling  and  alterations. 

The  Alna  Mee ting-House  (1789)  is  probably  the  most  satisfactory  ex- 
ample of  another  architectural  type  found  in  Maine.  Simply  but  sturdily 
constructed,  with  windows  on  all  four  sides,  the  building  rests  securely  on 
a  dry  foundation  of  large  squared  slabs  of  granite  over  a  rubble  wall.  As 
on  most  of  the  old  meeting-houses,  the  outside  finish  is  plain;  cornices  are 
unimportant,  rake  molds  are  flat,  and  windows  are  finished  with  simple 
architraves.  Galleries  run  around  three  sides  of  the  interior,  which  is 
dominated  by  a  splendid  two-story  pulpit.  Great  skiU  of  design  and 
beauty  of  workmanship  went  into  the  old  pulpits,  which  often  resembled 
the  Alna  pulpit  in  height,  and  had  a  canopy  and  a  high  and  elaborate 
enclosure  for  the  preacher.  The  box  pews  in  the  Alna  galleries  are  set  at 
varying  levels,  several  seats  being  hinged  so  that  the  worshipers  might 
more  comfortably  stand  to  sing.  Whether  the  pews  are  of  box  form  or 
more  nearly  like  the  present-day  arrangement,  board  dadoes  about  three 
and  a  half  feet  high  are  common  features  of  the  early  meeting-houses. 

Old  stone  buildings  in  Maine  are  rare.  The  Old  York  Gaol  (1653)  and 
the  old  Oxford  County  Jail  at  Paris  Hill  are  interesting  examples  of  this 
comparatively  rare  type  of  structure.  Occasionally  small  stone  buildings 
which  were  originally  used  for  schools  are  found  in  remote  districts,  but 
they  are  not  at  all  common.  The  Wiscasset  Courthouse  (1824)  is  a  fine 
example  of  brick  work.  Its  entrance,  an  elliptical  niche  with  half-el- 
lipsoidal dome,  is  unique  as  an  exhibit  of  bricklaying. 

It  is  unfortunate  that  the  names  of  the  architects  responsible  for  the 
designing  of  seventeenth,  eighteenth,  and  nineteenth  century  Maine 


92  Maine:  The  General  Background 

houses,  in  particular  the  mansions  and  manor  houses,  were  not  preserved. 
Records  too  often  report  only  that  Captain  this,  Colonel  that,  or  General 
someone  else  '  built  his  house '  in  such  and  such  a  year  —  as  if  the  gentle- 
men referred  to  went  to  work  themselves  with  axe,  saw,  and  adze  and 
created  their  homes.  Mention  has  been  made  of  the  fact  that  domestic 
woodworkers  took  many  of  their  designs  from  English  sources.  Similarly, 
the  designs  for  general  architectural  plans  as  well  as  for  details  were 
borrowed  from  English  books  and  from  the  work  of  English  architects. 
The  best  carpenters  of  the  Colonial  period,  and  later,  were  carpenter- 
architects,  cabinet-makers,  and  often  skilled  woodcarvers.  It  should  be 
remembered  that  many  Maine  carpenters  were  also  shipbuilders,  ships' 
carpenters,  and  carvers  of  figureheads  —  men  to  whom  a  fine  appreciation 
of  line  and  form  became  almost  instinctive.  It  has  been  pertinently 
stated  that  no  better  education  relating  to  beauty  of  lines  can  be  obtained 
than  in  the  designing  of  ships. 

Wealthy  Maine  landowners  often  had  their  homes  designed  by  archi- 
tects from  Massachusetts  and  other  States;  and  the  work  of  such  archi- 
tects as  S.  P.  Cockerell,  Robert  Mitchell,  Thomas  Major,  James  Hoban, 
and  Stephen  Hallett  may  well  have  affected  the  design  of  some  Maine 
mansions  constructed  between  the  i76o's  and  i83o's.  The  influence  of 
Charles  Bulfinch,  designer  of  the  State  Capitol  at  Augusta,  and  of  Samuel 
Mclntire,  the  Salem  architect-carpenter,  was  doubtless  felt  in  the  State's 
architecture.  Several  Bangor  houses  have  been  accredited  to  Bulfinch, 
but  the  claim  is  no  more  authenticated  than  the  assertion  that  Sir  Chris- 
topher Wren  designed  a  few  Maine  churches  and  mansions.  A  number  of 
Portland  homes,  such  as  the  Sweat,  Shepley,  and  Churchill  mansions, 
are  attributed  to  the  distinguished  Boston  architect,  Alexander  Parris. 
Aaron  Sherman  of  Duxbury,  Massachusetts,  designed  and  built  the 
Ruggles  House  (1819)  at  Columbia  Falls,  one  of  the  State's  more  elaborate 
examples  of  the  Colonial  tradition  as  embodied  in  nineteenth-century 
architecture.  Although  only  a  carpenter  by  trade,  Sherman  designed 
several  other  noteworthy  buildings  in  Columbia  Falls  and  Machias. 

Maine  felt  the  influence  of  the  beginnings  of  the  Classic  Revival  in  the 
mid-eighteenth  century,  and  shared  hi  the  Greek  Revival,  extending 
roughly  from  1820  to  1850.  In  this  Hellenic  movement,  not  only  were 
features  of  Greek  architecture  adopted,  but  Maine  towns  were  given 
Greek  names  such  as  Milo,  Troy,  and  Athens.  Variations  on  the  Greek 
temple-home  began  to  appear,  although  the  Colonial  traditions  were 
carried  through.  Houses  were  built  with  end  rather  than  side  facing  the 
street;  Greek  colonnades,  columns,  entablatures,  bold  and  heavy  mold- 


Architecture  93 


ings,  and  extensive  variations  on  Doric,  Ionic,  and  Corinthian  designs 
were  used.  Somewhat  later,  a  Gothic  influence  began  to  appear  in  the 
architecture  of  college  buildings,  churches,  and  public  buildings.  The 
Georgian  and  the  Gothic  were  frequently  combined,  as  in  the  beautiful 
First  Congregational  Church  at  Kennebunkport.  Although  Maine 
architecture  variously  adapted  and  interpreted  the  influences  of  the 
Neo-Classic,  Gothic,  and  Romanesque  revivals  which  swept  the  country, 
it  assimilated  nothing  new  from  its  immediate  environment. 

Following  the  decline  of  the  Greek  Revival,  there  is  little  to  distinguish 
Maine  architecture  from  that  of  the  rest  of  the  country.  Examples  of  the 
later  nineteenth-century  architecture,  when  design  ran  wild  and  buildings 
abounded  in  profuse  and  meaningless  detail,  are  to  be  found  in  the  State's 
larger  cities,  particularly  Portland.  The  Georgian  and  Greek  Revival 
traditions  were  not  altogether  abandoned,  however;  no  passing  phase 
could  alter  the  fundamental  soundness  and  simplicity  of  these  traditions. 

Maine  followed  the  general  architectural  trends  of  the  twentieth 
century  toward  a  readaptation  of  the  classical  forms  and  the  increasing 
use  of  iron,  steel,  and  stone  in  construction.  Although  a  number  of  public 
and  private  buildings  in  Maine  reflect  the  latest  developments  in  modern 
architecture,  there  have  been  few  experiments  with  ultra-modern  design, 
and  the  majority  of  homes  follow  the  usual  traditions.  A  few  radical 
departures  in  house-building  have  been  carried  out  in  some  of  the  larger 
cities,  such  as  Portland,  and  the  Waldo  Theater  (1936)  at  Waldoboro  is 
but  one  of  several  fine  examples  in  the  State  of  contemporary  architecture 
applied  to  special  fields.  The  architecture  of  the  Maine  farmhouse,  with 
its  usual  series  of  sheds,  workrooms,  and  storage-rooms  joining  barn  and 
dwelling  for  purposes  of  warmth  and  convenience,  remains  basically  un- 
changed. That  Maine  people  on  the  whole  are  not  unmindful  of  their 
architectural  traditions  is  indicated  by  the  care  and  appreciation  be- 
stowed upon  their  more  select  old  houses,  as  in  Wiscasset,  Alfred,  and 
Belfast,  and  by  such  valuable  work  as  the  reproduction  of  the  beautiful 
mansion,  'Montpelier,'  in  Thomaston. 


THE      ARTS 


THE  New  England  tradition  of  active  practice  and  patronage  of  the  arts 
—  something  more  than  a  general  appreciation  of  esthetic  values  —  is 
still  alive  in  Maine.  A  relatively  large  number  of  writers  and  artists  were 
born  in  the  State  or  have  done  much  of  their  work  here,  and  each  year 
many  more  are  attracted  to  its  green  hills  and  bright  harbors.  Some  come 
each  summer  to  find  rest,  or  to  seek  inspiration  and  material  for  their 
work;  some  make  their  permanent  homes  here,  to  enjoy  peaceful  activity 
among  beautiful  surroundings  the  year  round. 

Maine  has  lost  some  of  her  traditional  vehicles  of  culture,  while  new 
developments  and  facilities  have  turned  her  people  away  from  communal 
activity  in  the  arts.  But  these  losses  are  not  without  their  compensations. 
New  media,  the  radio  and  the  cinema,  offer  larger  opportunities  for  the 
enjoyment  and  appreciation  of  artistic  expression.  And  even  today  the 
old-fashioned  community  '  sing '  has  not  been  displaced  entirely.  Fiddles 
still  zip  and  whine  in  village  ballrooms.  Little  groups  in  schools,  granges, 
4~H  Clubs,  and  churches  still  gather  in  the  evenings  for  orchestra  practice 
or  to  rehearse  '  the  Play.'  Each  year  new  talent  is  revealed  by  the  State- 
wide contest  hi  high  school  dramatics  that  culminates  at  Bowdoin 
College  in  the  spring.  Occasionally  the  product  of  solitary,  perhaps  un- 
encouraged,  labor  with  chisel,  brush,  or  pen  is  brought  to  light,  and  a  new 
and  original  contribution  to  the  art  of  Maine  is  recognized  and  acclaimed. 


LITERATURE 

Maine's  literary  heritage  is  an  old  and  enduring  one,  rich  in  names  the 
mention  of  which  anywhere  in  this  country  evokes  instant  recognition. 
As  early  as  1800,  books  were  being  published  in  the  Province  by  a  'lady 
novelist'  who  achieved  national  reputation  under  the  pen  names,  'A 
Lady  of  Maine'  and  'A  Lady  of  Massachusetts.'  The  work  of  Madam 
Wood  (the  name  by  which  she  later  came  to  be  known)  was  published  in 
Baltimore  and  in  Portsmouth,  New  Hampshire,  as  well  as  in  Portland. 
She  was  one  of  America's  first  popular  novelists.  Born  Sally  Sayward 


The  Arts  95 

Barrel  at  York  in  1759,  she  was  in  the  course  of  her  long  life  a  resident  of 
York,  Wiscasset,  and  Portland,  was  twice  married,  and  had  three  children, 
whom  she  helped  to  support  by  the  proceeds  of  her  writing.  She  died  in 
1854,  when  she  was  more  than  ninety-five  years  old.  In  most  of  her 
romances,  the  better  known  of  which  were  'Julia,' '  Amelia/  'Dorval,'  and 
'Tales  of  the  Night/  her  aim  was  to  develop  an  American  style  and  to  use 
American  scenes  and  characters,  an  unusual  literary  ambition  in  a  period 
when  all  genteel  Americans  aped  in  manner  of  life  and  thought  the 
prevailing  modes  of  England  and  the  Continent.  'Why,'  wrote  Madam 
Wood,  'we  should  not  aim  at  independence,  with  respect  to  our  mental 
enjoyments,  as  well  as  for  our  more  substantial  gratifications,  I  know  not. 
Why  must  the  amusements  of  our  leisure  hours  cross  the  Atlantic?  and 
introduce  foreign  fashions  and  foreign  manners,  to  a  people,  certainly 
capable  of  producing  their  own.'  In  an  introduction  to  one  of  her  novels 
she  declared:  'The  following  pages  are  wholly  American;  the  characters 
are  those  of  our  own  country.  The  author  has  endeavored  to  catch  the 
manners  of  her  native  land;  and  it  is  hoped  no  one  will  find,  upon  perusal, 
a  lesson,  or  even  a  sentence,  that  authorize  vice  or  sanction  immorality.' 
It  is  said  of  Madam  Wood  that,  after  reading  some  of  Scott's  novels,  she 
became  so  dissatisfied  with  her  own  work  that  she  gathered  as  many  of  her 
books  and  manuscripts  as  she  could  and  destroyed  them. 

Perhaps  the  earliest  fiction  to  be  written  and  published  in  Maine  was  an 
anonymous  work,  printed  at  Hallowell  in  1797,  called  'Female  Friend- 
ship, or  the  Innocent  Sufferer:  a  Moral  Novel.'  The  earliest  volume  of 
Maine  verse,  'The  Amaranth,'  by  Eliza  S.  True,  was  advertised  as  'Cal- 
culated to  Amuse  the  Mind  of  Youth  without  Corrupting  their  Morals.' 
'The  Village,'  a  didactic  and  stilted  poem  obviously  influenced  by  Pope 
and  Goldsmith,  appeared  in  1816  from  the  pen  of  Enoch  Lincoln.  It 
reveals  little  of  the  ability  that  made  its  author,  in  1827,  the  sixth  governor 
of  his  State  at  the  age  of  thirty- three,  or  of  the  qualities  that  gave  him 
wide  personal  influence  throughout  his  mature  life. 

Seba  Smith  (1792-1868),  who  founded  Maine's  first  daily  newspaper, 
The  Courier ',  at  Portland  in  1829,  early  became  known  as  a  humorist  and 
as  a  satirist  of  the  down-East  Yankee  type  later  more  shrewdly  por- 
trayed to  a  far  wider  audience  by  Charles  Farrar  Browne  (1834-67).  The 
latter,  internationally  known  as  '  Artemus  Ward,'  died  in  England  before 
he  had  reached  the  full  height  of  his  literary  power,  and  is  buried  at 
Waterford  in  Oxford  County,  where  he  was  born. 

Nathaniel  Willis  (1780-1870),  first  editor  of  Maine's  earliest  Democrat- 
Republican  newspaper,  The  Eastern  Argus,  founded  The  Youth's  Com- 


96  Maine :  The  General  Background 

panion  in  1827,  a  periodical  characterized  in  its  day  as  'the  most  im- 
portant single  educational  agency  in  America.'  The  Companion,  though 
published  in  Boston  for  most  of  the  hundred  years  of  its  existence,  was 
always  a  vehicle  for  Maine  writers;  its  most  popular  spinner  of  tales  was 
the  scientist  G.  A.  Stephens  (1844-1931)  of  Norway  Lake,  who  estimated 
that  he  had  written  more  than  three  thousand  stories  for  the  magazine;  its 
first  subscriber  was  a  little  girl  in  Maine;  and  the  majority  of  its  suc- 
cessive editors  were  men  from  Maine,  among  them  Arthur  G.  Staples,  a 
well-known  journalist. 

Two  of  Willis's  children  achieved  prominence  that  overshadowed  their 
father's.  Nathaniel  Parker  Willis  (1806-67)  was  a  poet,  journalist,  and 
critic  of  great  contemporary  influence,  though  he  is  little  read  today.  His 
sister,  Sara  Payson  (Willis)  Parton,  better  known  as  'Fanny  Fern'  (1811- 
72),  a  popular  novelist  and  essayist,  is  best  described  as  a  pleader  of 
special  causes,  most  frequently  that  of  women's  rights.  The  influence  of 
her  liberal  mind,  particularly  on  the  everyday  life  of  New  York  at  that 
time,  was  of  more  lasting  importance  than  any  of  her  literary  works. 

Another  Maine  literary  figure  distinguished  among  his  contemporaries 
was  MacDonald  Clarke,  'the  mad  poet,'  born  at  Bath  in  1798.  He  went 
to  New  York  as  a  young  man  and  joined  the  'Bohemian'  circle  in  which 
the  younger  Willis  and  his  sister  moved.  His  work,  now  almost  wholly 
forgotten,  enjoyed  some  esteem  in  its  time.  Brilliant  and  eccentric,  he 
lived  in  continual  poverty,  befriended  by  the  more  successful  of  his  fellows, 
notably  Willis.  He  died  in  1842  in  the  asylum  on  Blackwell's  Island, 
drowned  in  his  cell  by  the  flow  of  water  from  an  open  faucet.  Shortly 
before  his  death,  it  is  recorded,  he  was  heard  to  say:  'Four  things  I  am 
sure  there  will  be  in  Heaven  —  music,  little  children,  flowers,  and  fresh 
air.' 

There  could  be  no  greater  contrast  to  Clarke's  melancholy  life  than  the 
happy  and  extraordinarily  industrious  career  of  Jacob  Abbott  (1803-79), 
perhaps  the  best  known  of  his  remarkable  family  and  the  author  of  some 
two  hundred  books  for  young  people,  the  most  popular  of  which  were 
published  as  the  '  Rollo  Series.'  His  brother,  John  S.  C.  Abbott  (1805-77), 
was  famous  as  a  teacher  and  historian.  A  small  museum  in  the  tower  of 
Hubbard  Hall,  the  library  at  Bowdoin  College,  houses  a  collection  of 
material  pertaining  to  the  Abbott  family,  including  manuscripts  of  some  of 
the  books  of  Jacob  Abbott,  doubtless  Maine's  most  prolific  writer. 

Henry  Wadsworth  Longfellow  was  the  first  writer  of  outstanding 
distinction  to  be  associated  with  Maine.  Born  at  Portland  in  1807,  he  was 
educated  there  and  at  Bowdoin  College,  where  he  subsequently  taught 


OF      ARCHITECTURAL      INTEREST 


DOMESTIC  architecture  in  Maine  developed  simply  from 
the  early  Colonial  structures  of  New  England  to  evolve,  in 
the  late  eighteenth  century,  into  two  general  types.  An  ex- 
ample of  the  most  prevalent  of  these  is  the  story-and-a-half 
farm  cottage  pictured  here;  combining  simplicity,  economy, 
and  sturdiness,  it  is  a  style  well  adapted  to  the  Maine  scene. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  homes  of  the  merchant  and  ship- 
owning  class  achieved  varying  degrees  of  refinement  and 
architectural  grace,  culminating  in  such  elegance  as  that  of 
the  Nickels-Sortwell  House  and  occasionally  in  such  frivolity 
as  the  decorations  of  the  so-called  '  Wedding  Cake'  House. 

Architectural  detail  usually  combined  simplicity  and  strength, 
as  in  the  hardware  shown  in  the  Old  Jail  at  Paris  Hill,  but  it 
could  be  very  elaborate,  as  in  the  carved  woodwork  of  the 
Means  House.  Native  craftsmen  of  the  State,  their  names 
now  forgotten,  often  left  enduring  monuments  to  their  skill 
and  ingenuity,  as  the  delicate  work  on  the  facade  of  the 
Ruggles  House  or  the  gracious  sweeping  stairway  of  the 
Black  Mansion. 

An  example  of  twentieth-century  building  is  St.  John's  Church 
in  Brunswick,  in  which  a  modern  interpretation  of  conven- 
tional ecclesiastical  Gothic  has  been  successfully  worked  out 
in  native  stone. 


FROM  THE  OLD  STONE  JAIL,  PARIS  HILL 


THE  HEARTH  IN  THE  MEANS  HOUSE,  PORTLANE 


DOORWAY,  MAJOR  REUBEN  COLBURN  HOUSE,  PITTSTON 


FARM  COTTAGE  NEAR  BAR  HARBOR 


CARVED  DOOR  CASE,  MEANS  HOUSE,  PORTLAND 


ST.  JOHN  S  CHURCH,  BRUNSWICK 


NICKELS-SORTWELL  HOUSE,  W1SCASSET 


m 
i 


5 
B 


RUGGLES  HOUSE,  COLUMBIA  FALLS 


DOORWAY  OF  THE  RUGGLES  HOUSE 


il. 


STAIRWAY  OF  THE  BLACK  MANSION,  ELLSWORTH 


> 


LV    SSSSS»i 

lllllll'lfff      .V-      ;S 


WEDDING  CAKE     HOUSE,  KENNEBUNK 


The  Arts  97 


and  was  librarian  for  six  years  (1829-35),  before  leaving  to  become 
professor  of  modern  languages  at  Harvard  (1836-54).  Although  the 
poetry  that  brought  him  highest  acclaim  was  written  after  he  left  the 
State,  Maine  may  call  Longfellow  her  own.  The  life  and  scenery  of  this 
region  doubtless  would  have  been  more  strongly  reflected  in  his  work  if 
literary  convention  had  not  led  him  constantly  to  classic  mythology  and 
to  European  models  and  themes.  Nevertheless,  in  'My  Lost  Youth'  and 
other  of  his  most  popular  poems,  much  of  his  early  experience  of  the  coast 
and  country  life  in  his  native  State  is  described  feelingly.  At  Portland,  his 
birthplace  near  the  harbor  and  the  Wadsworth-Longfellow  House,  with 
its  lovely  garden,  are  shrines  visited  by  his  admirers  from  all  over  the 
world.  The  Longfellow  Room  in  the  Bowdoin  College  Library  contains  a 
valuable  collection  of  the  poet's  books  and  manuscripts. 

Nathaniel  Hawthorne,  Longfellow's  classmate  and  friend,  at  whose 
suggestion  'Evangeline'  was  written,  is  less  specifically  a  Maine  figure. 
Born  in  Salem,  Massachusetts,  Hawthorne  spent  most  of  his  youth  at 
Raymond  on  Sebago  Lake,  entering  Bowdoin  College  in  1821.  His  first 
novel,  'Fanshawe,'  anonymously  issued  from  a  Brunswick  printing  shop 
in  1828,  is  a  romance  of  Bowdoin  and  Brunswick.  Since  Hawthorne  him- 
self subsequently  withdrew  this  novel  from  the  booksellers  and  had  most 
of  the  copies  destroyed,  it  is  now  a  very  rare  and  valuable  collector's  item. 

Henry  David  Thoreau  made  several  excursions  into  Maine,  and  some 
of  his  impressions  are  recorded  in  'The  Maine  Woods,'  posthumously 
published  from  his  manuscript  journals  in  1864.  Thoreau's  treatment  of 
nature,  though  often  poetic  in  style,  is  marked  by  a  scientific  exactness 
quite  opposed  to  the  emotional  and  sentimental  approach  of  many  of  his 
fellow  naturalists.  Joe  Polis,  an  Old  Town  Indian  guide,  may  have  had 
some  influence  on  Thoreau's  philosophy.  Doubtless  reflecting  his  interest 
in  the  Maine  wilderness  were  the  last  words  which  Thoreau  uttered  as  he 
lay  dying  of  consumption  in  1862;  they  were  'moose'  and  'Indian.' 

John  Greenleaf  Whittier,  though  he  never  lived  in  Maine  and  visited 
the  State  only  occasionally,  used  considerable  Maine  material  in  his  poems. 
One  of  his  most  successful  ballads,  'The  Dead  Ship  of  Harpswell,'  em- 
bodies a  famous  legend  of  Casco  Bay;  and  the  heroine  of  the  poem, ' Maud 
Muller,'  was  a  young  girl  whom  Whittier  had  met  in  York. 

Harriet  Beecher  Stowe  wrote  'Uncle  Tom's  Cabin'  while  living  in 
Brunswick,  and  during  the  period  of  her  Maine  residence  she  also  gath- 
ered material  from  the  near-by  salt-water  country  for  her  romance, '  The 
Pearl  of  Orr's  Island.' 

The  novelist  and  editor,  William  Dean  Howells,  for  many  ye^*  one  of 


98  Maine:  The  General  Background 

America's  most  prominent  literary  figures,  owned  summer  homes  at 
Kittery  Point  and  York  Harbor,  and  some  of  his  novels  show  the  influence 
of  the  Maine  environment. 

The  first  important  book  about  Maine  written  by  a  native  of  the  State 
was  Sarah  Orne  Jewett's  'Country  of  the  Pointed  Firs,'  a  landmark  in  the 
so-called  local-color  movement  in  American  literature.  Miss  Jewett 
(1849-1909)  was  born  in  South  Berwick,  the  daughter  of  a  country 
physician.  Her  delicate  vignettes  of  rural  New  England  life,  beginning 
with  'Deephaven,'  her  first  book,  have  come  to  be  recognized  as  of  lasting 
importance. 

Kate  Douglas  Wiggin  (1856-1923),  author  of  'Rebecca  of  Sunnybrook 
Farm,' l The  Birds'  Christmas  Carol,'  and  other  stories  that  are  likely  to 
hold  a  permanent  place  in  the  affections  of  young  readers,  was  also  a 
Maine  writer.  Born  in  Philadelphia  of  Maine  parents,  she  spent  her  child- 
hood and  most  of  her  later  summers  in  the  State,  finally  making  her 
permanent  abode  here  (at  'Quillcote,'  in  Hollis).  Mrs.  Riggs'  private 
library,  which  she  bequeathed  to  Bowdoin,  is  housed  as  a  unit  in  the 
College  Library. 

Today  in  Maine,  Laura  E.  Richards  (born  1850),  particularly  remem- 
bered for  her  'Captain  January,'  continues  in  spite  of  advanced  years  to 
write  fiction  and  poetry  for  children,  much  of  it  with  a  Maine  background. 

Among  Maine  writers  of  the  nineteenth  century  who  were  of  importance 
in  their  time  is  Elijah  Kellogg  (1813-1901),  the  gentle  preacher  of  Harps- 
well  and  friend  to  boys.  He  was  known  particularly  for  his  *  Elm  Island 
Series,'  concerned  with  heroes  of  the  Maine  coast  and  its  islands,  and  the 
'Whispering  Pines  Series,'  stories  of  Bowdoin  College.  Elizabeth  Akers 
Allen  (1832-1911),  wife  of  the  sculptor  Benjamin  Paul  Akers,  a  Portland 
newspaperwoman  and  verse  writer,  is  remembered  chiefly  for  her  poem 
entitled  'Rock  Me  to  Sleep.' 

Under  the  pen-name  of  'Sophie  May,'  Rebecca  Sophia  Clarke  (1833- 
1906)  attained  wide  popularity  as  the  author  of  the  'Little  Prudy'  and 
'Dotty  Dimple'  series,  and  other  books  for  young  readers.  Arlo  Bates 
(1850-1918),  born  in  Maine  and  a  graduate  of  Bowdoin  College,  gained 
distinction  as  a  teacher  and  man  of  letters  in  Boston;  Henry  Johnson 
(1855-1918),  Bowdoin  professor  and  poet,  translated  Dante's  Dimna 
Commedia  andWfo Nuova;  Harriet Prescott  Spofford  (1835-1921),  novelist 
and  short-story  writer,  was  a  valued  contributor  to  The  Atlantic  Monthly; 
Nathan  Haskell  Dole  (1852-1935),  poet  and  translator,  described  his 
native  State  in  'Maine  of  the  Sea  and  Pines.'  The  famous  humorist  Edgar 
Wilson  Nye  (1850-96),  known  to  readers  and  lecture  audiences  every- 


The  Arts  99 


where  as  'Bill'  Nye,  was  born  at  Shirley,  in  Piscataquis  County,  but  left 
the  State  at  the  age  of  two  when  his  parents  moved  to  the  Middle  West. 
John  Kendrick  Bangs  (1862-1922),  although  not  a  native  of  Maine, 
retired  to  Ogunquit  from  New  York  hi  middle  life,  his  reputation  as  a 
humorous  writer  and  lecturer  already  secure.  Henry  Milner  Rideout 
(1877-1927),  novelist  and  teacher,  utilized  the  general  background  of  his 
Maine  boyhood  and  youth  in  at  least  two  of  his  books  —  '  Beached  Keels ' 
and  '  Admiral's  Light.'  The  stories  and  verses  of  Holman  F.  Day  (1865- 
1935)  portray  the  Maine  Yankee  with  keen  insight  and  a  rare  sense  of 
humor. 

Edwin  Arlington  Robinson  (1869-1935),  recognized  as  one  of  America's 
foremost  poets,  was  for  many  years  Maine's  outstanding  writer.  Born  at 
Head  Tide  in  Alna  and  brought  up  in  Gardiner,  he  wrote  his  earlier  poems 
in  and  of  Maine.  Gardiner  is  believed  by  some  to  be  the  '  Tilbury  Town ' 
of  this  poetry,  in  which  he  immortalized  many  persons  he  had  known  in 
his  early  youth.  Robinson  left  Maine  as  a  young  man  and  returned  only 
rarely.  After  his  early  characterizations  in  '  The  Children  of  the  Night ' 
and  'Captain  Craig/  the  Maine  element  is  not  a  major  one  in  his  poetry; 
but  his  style,  with  its  subdued  cadences  and  terse,  often  crabbed,  turns  of 
speech,  was  shaped  to  a  great  extent  by  the  Yankee  environment  of  his 
youth.  In  his  way  a  profoundly  'literary'  poet,  Robinson  yet  had  the 
strength  that  comes  from  a  closeness  to  the  land  and  an  awareness  of  the 
simple  people  whose  roots  are  in  the  soil  and  whose  language  and  customs 
preserve  the  full  flavor  of  the  race.  Though  not  always  original  in  form  or 
message,  Robinson's  poetry  speaks  in  a  special  voice,  and  reveals  a  dry 
but  vivid  personality.  It  was  the  reserved,  cynical,  but  intensely  human 
Yankee  in  Robinson  that  gave  life  to  his  poetic  creations. 

Edna  St.  Vincent  MiUay,  one  of  America's  favorite  modern  poets,  was 
born  in  Rockland  and  now  spends  part  of  each  year  on  one  of  the  most 
romantic  spots  of  the  Maine  coast,  Ragged  Island  in  Casco  Bay  —  the 
'Elm  Island'  of  Elijah  Kellogg's  stories.  Her  poetry,  though  seldom 
treating  of  Maine  subject-matter  in  particular,  is  redolent  of  the  sea  and 
often  descriptive  of  the  rugged  shore  and  hardy  people  who  live  along  it. 
Chiefly  influenced  by  the  metaphysical  and  cavalier  poets  of  England, 
Miss  Millay  has  less  of  the  New  Englander's  tense  cadences  of  speech, 
wry  humor,  and  salty  expression. 

Robert  P.  Tristram  Coffin,  on  the  other  hand,  is  a  Maine  poet  whose 
subject-matter  is  drawn  almost  entirely  from  his  native  State  — 

This  is  my  country,  bitter  as  the  sea, 
Pungent  with  the  fir  and  bayberry. 


loo  Maine:  The  General  Background 

A  Brunswick  man,  teacher  at  Bowdoin,  and  1936  Pulitzer  Prize  winner, 
Mr.  Coffin  hymns  the  virtues  of  the  self-sufficient  life  of  the  Maine  small 
farmer  and  fisherman.  More  successful  in  his  verse,  perhaps,  than  in  his 
novels,  he  clings  to  the  bedrock  and  gnarled  beauty  of  his  own  small  field. 
Like  him,  but  in  a  less  poetic  and  personal  way,  Mary  Ellen  Chase  of 
Bluehill  also  writes  of  the  former  Maine  coastal  life  in  all  its  independent 
and  picturesque  aspects.  Both  of  them  are  retrospective,  dealing  with  a 
world  that  is  past  —  Miss  Chase  with  the  shipbuilding  and  shipowning 
aristocracy,  Mr.  Coffin  with  the  yeomanry  of  farm  and  fishing  grounds. 

Like  them  in  depicting  changing  or  past  scenes  are  their  fellow  novelists, 
Gladys  Hasty  Carroll,  author  of  'As  the  Earth  Turns,'  Rachel  Field, 
Elizabeth  Hopestill  Carter,  and  Gerald  Brace.  Miss  Field,  a  Chicagoan 
converted  to  Maine,  has  also  written  a  number  of  lyrics.  Other  con- 
temporary Maine  poets  are  Wilbert  Snow  of  Spruce  Head;  Harold  Vinal 
of  Vinalhaven,  editor  of  Voices,  a  prominent  American  poetry  journal;  and 
Harold  Trowbridge  Pulsifer  of  East  Harpswell,  former  editor  of  The  Out- 
look and  citizen-by-adoption  of  Maine. 

Other  writers  who  must  be  mentioned  are  Ben  Ames  Williams,  whose 
tales  of  the  woods  and  inland  country  have  won  considerable  popularity 
(his  village  of  Fraternity,  familiar  to  readers  of  his  stories  in  the  Saturday 
Evening  Post,  is  in  actuality  the  town  of  Searsmont,  Maine);  Kenneth 
Roberts,  whose  '  Arundel'  and  subsequent  novels  of  the  sea  and  the  York 
County  region,  noted  for  their  accuracy  as  to  fact  and  locale,  are  in  the 
best  tradition  of  American  historical  romance;  Margaret  Deland  and 
Booth  Tarkington,  both  summer  residents  of  long  standing  whose  novels 
often  reflect  the  Maine  background;  and  Lincoln  Colcord,  who  writes  with 
knowledge  and  understanding  about  the  sea. 

No  account  of  Maine's  contribution  to  literature  would  be  complete 
without  some  mention  of  Thomas  Bird  Mosher  (1852-1923)  of  Portland, 
a  man  who  devoted  several  decades  of  his  life  to  the  publication  of  belles- 
lettres  in  choice  editions,  gaining  a  unique  position  both  for  the  remarkable 
taste  which  he  evidenced  in  the  selection  of  material  and  for  the  dis- 
tinctively beautiful  form  which  he  gave  to  that  material.  Many  of  the 
prefaces  in  his  book  publications  and  in  The  Bibelot,  which  he  issued  as 
a  monthly  periodical  for  twenty  years,  were  written  by  him  and  indicate 
literary  ability  of  a  rare  sort. 


The  Arts  101 


ART 


The  art  of  Maine's  early  days  found  its  expression  in  the  crafts,  most 
notably  in  woodcarving.  Since  shipbuilding  was  one  of  the  State's  first 
great  industries,  there  was  ample  opportunity  for  the  native  artist  to  work 
on  mastheads,  bowsprits,  figureheads,  and  the  like.  Some  striking 
examples  of  such  work  have  been  preserved  in  museums  in  various  parts 
of  New  England  and  in  private  collections  in  Maine.  The  largest  of  these 
latter  is  that  of  the  Sewall  family  at  Small  Point,  and  another  belongs  to 
Booth  Tarkington  in  Kennebunkport.  Countless  examples  of  beautiful 
woodwork  exist  today  in  Maine's  old  houses.  It  must  be  remembered, 
however,  that  much  of  this  work  was  frankly  derivative  from  earlier 
creative  developments  in  southern  New  England.  Until  recent  years, 
the  work  of  Maine  artisans  in  stone,  glass,  and  metals  has  been  at  best 
rather  primitive.  There  were  only  two  recorded  silver-working  establish- 
ments in  the  State  before  1830,  and  no  glass  works  of  any  importance  until 
after  1863,  when  the  famous  Portland  glass  began  to  be  made.  A  collec- 
tion of  Portland  glass  is  on  exhibition  at  the  Maine  Historical  Society  in 
Portland. 

Pioneer  and  Colonial  life  in  Maine,  rendered  harsh  by  continual 
struggle  with  the  elements  and  uncertain  by  constant  Indian  warfare,  left 
little  time  for  such  esthetic  development  as  Boston  and  Philadelphia  early 
enjoyed.  Most  of  Maine's  great  houses  were  not  built  until  the  nine- 
teenth century;  and  their  furnishings,  though  usually  objects  of  taste  and 
beauty,  were  commonly  brought  from  other  countries  by  seafaring  mem- 
bers of  the  families.  Tombstone  designs  and  work  in  iron  and  other  metals 
were  dignified  enough.  So  were  the  early  paintings,  often  appealing  be- 
cause of  their  simplicity,  but  invariably  crude;  their  value  today  is  chiefly 
historical.  Weaving  and  rug-making,  quilting  and  embroidering,  and 
other  household  arts,  however,  showed  a  high  degree  of  skill  in  technique 
and  design. 

Any  account  of  the  painters  and  sculptors  who  have  lived  and  worked 
in  Maine  must  be  limited  to  those  who  were  closely  associated  with  the 
State,  whether  or  not  they  were  native  to  it.  Although  there  has  never 
been  a  Maine  school  or  movement  in  painting,  the  State,  particularly  its 
varied  coast,  has  for  years  attracted  a  great  number  of  summer  artists. 
Certain  noted  artists,  too,  have  been  residents  of  the  State  the  year  round, 
spending  part  or  all  of  their  lives  here. 


IO2  Maine:  The  General  Background 

In  Colonial  times,  both  Joseph  Badger  (1708-65)  and  Joseph  Black- 
burn (fi.  1753-63),  among  the  first  painters  of  the  New  World,  made 
many  portraits  of  Maine  persons.  Badger  was  originally  a  coach  and 
house  painter  who,  although  never  attaining  great  eminence  for  his  por- 
traits, was  for  a  time  foremost  in  his  profession  in  Boston.  Copley  is 
believed  by  some  to  have  studied  with  him.  Some  of  his  portraits,  dis- 
tinguished by  a  certain  charm  in  spite  of  their  stilted  mannerisms,  still 
hang  in  the  ancestral  homes  of  Maine's  old  families.  Little  is  known  about 
the  artist  Blackburn  except  that  he  traveled  extensively  and  lived  at 
different  times  in  Boston,  Portsmouth,  and  possibly  elsewhere  in  New 
England.  It  is  conjectured  that  he  was  an  Englishman  working  in  this 
country  under  an  assumed  name.  His  painting,  though  not  strikingly 
original,  is  superior  to  Badger's.  It  does  not,  however,  equal  the  work  of 
Robert  Feke  (about  1705-50),  a  native  of  Rhode  Island,  some  of  the  very 
best  examples  of  which  are  the  Bowdoin  portraits,  probably  executed  in 
Boston  and  now  in  the  possession  of  Bowdoin  College.  Feke  was  especially 
successful  in  reproducing  the  color  and  texture  of  fine  fabrics. 

For  several  years  after  the  passing  of  the  Boston  group  of  Colonial 
artists  that  included  Smibert,  Copley,  and  Gilbert  Stuart  (who  is  known 
to  have  done  some  portraits  in  Maine),  there  seems  to  have  been  little 
painting  of  any  distinction  in  the  State.  But  later,  Portland  had  an  artist 
of  her  own  in  Charles  O.  Cole  (1817-58),  who  achieved  local  fame  with  his 
portraits  of  prominent  citizens.  Today,  examples  of  his  work  and  of 
Badger's  may  be  seen  among  the  old  portraits  in  the  collection  of  the 
Maine  Historical  Society.  The  Walker  Art  Gallery  at  Bowdoin  College 
has  a  remarkable  collection  of  Badger,  Blackburn,  Feke,  and  Stuart 
portraits. 

Winslow  Homer,  called  '  the  most  powerful  representative  of  open-air 
painting  in  America'  and  '  the  most  thoroughly  American'  of  our  painters, 
is  unquestionably  the  foremost  figure  among  Maine  artists.  Born  in 
Boston  in  1836  of  Maine  parents,  Homer  finally  settled  in  this  State  in 
1884,  in  the  studio  at  Prout's  Neck  which  he  built  himself.  Here  he  lived 
until  his  death  in  1910.  During  this  period  he  became  more  and  more 
absorbed  in  the  battle  of  land  and  sea,  in  'man's  unbreakable  courage 
against  the  overwhelming  powers  of  nature.'  Though  a  realist  and  always 
the  illustrator,  adept  in  catching  the  drama  of  his  scene,  Homer  was 
primarily  interested  in  color  —  whether  the  lush  brilliance  of  Florida  and 
the  Bahamas,  where  he  sometimes  spent  his  winters,  or  the  harsh  bright- 
ness alternating  with  the  cold  grays  of  the  Maine  seacoast. 

The  nineteenth  century  witnessed  the  birth  and  early  development  in 


The  Arts  103 


Maine  of  several  prominent  American  artists,  most  of  whom  eventually 
left  the  State  to  complete  their  training  and  their  work.  Some  of  these 
men  were  Eastman  Johnson  (1824-1906),  portrait  and  genre  painter;  J. 
Foxcroft  Cole  (1837-92),  landscape  painter;  Frederic  Porter  Vinton 
(1845-1911),  portrait  painter;  Ben  Foster  (1852-1926),  landscape  painter 
and  art  critic;  and  Joseph  Cummings  Chase  (born  1878),  portrait  painter. 

Maine  also  produced  in  the  nineteenth  century  two  sculptors  of  note, 
Benjamin  Paul  Akers  (1825-61)  and  Franklin  Simmons  (1839-1913). 
Akers  was  the  son  of  a  wood- turner  of  Saccarappa.  A  dreamy  youth, 
known  to  his  schoolmates  as  'Saint  Paul,'  his  aspirations  were  literary 
rather  than  artistic.  Some  of  his  early  essays  were  published  in  The 
Atlantic  Monthly.  In  1849  ne  turned  to  sculpture  as  a  profession  and  went 
to  Boston  to  study.  Some  months  later  he  opened  a  studio  in  Portland, 
where  one  of  his  commissions  was  for  a  portrait  bust  of  Longfellow.  Later 
he  went  to  Rome,  receiving  in  Europe  the  recognition  of  his  talents  to 
which  he  long  aspired.  His  'Dead  Pearl-Diver,'  produced  in  Rome  and 
described  in  Hawthorne's  'The  Marble  Faim,'  is  probably  his  most 
famous  piece  of  work.  This  idealized  marble  figure  is  today  in  Portland's 
Sweat  Museum.  Akers's  meticulously  finished  work  reflects  the  classicist 
taste  of  his  period. 

Franklin  Simmons  was  in  his  youth  an  itinerant  artist,  wandering  the 
Maine  countryside.  Later  he  made  his  way  to  Washington,  and  finally  to 
Italy,  where  he  lived  until  his  death.  He  eventually  attained  considerable 
prominence,  and  in  1898  was  knighted  by  the  King  of  Italy.  His  seated 
portrait  statue  of  Longfellow  and  his  Civil  War  monument, '  The  Republic,' 
have  prominent  places  in  Portland.  His  'Penelope,'  an  idealized  marble 
figure  now  in  the  Portland  Museum  as  part  of  the  Franklin  Simmons 
Memorial  Collection,  is  considered  his  best  work.  Simmons  was  possessed 
of  tireless  energy,  and  executed  more  than  one  hundred  busts  and 
monuments. 

Since  Winslow  Homer,  many  leading  American  artists  have  spent  their 
summers  in  Maine,  but  few  have  made  the  State  their  home  and  drawn  as 
heavily  upon  its  scenes  for  material  as  he  did.  At  the  present  time  the 
colorful  artist,  Waldo  Peirce,  resides  at  Bangor;  and  Stephen  Etnier,  of  a 
younger  generation,  lives  and  works  on  his  island  near  Popham.  Robert 
Henri  spent  many  summers  in  Maine,  as  did  Emil  Carlsen,  whose  marine 
paintings  depict  some  of  the  variety  of  the  Maine  coast. 

Two  outstanding  artists  who  have  found  inspiration  in  the  Maine  scene 
are  Rockwell  Kent  and  John  Marin,  each  of  whom  uses  a  highly  special- 
ized medium  of  expression.  Kent  found  the  Maine  coast,  with  its  broad 


IO4  Maine:  The  General  Background 

planes  of  sea  and  its  background  of  jagged  rock  and  pointed  trees,  an 
admirable  setting  for  his  idealized  portraits,  which  seem  to  be  made  with 
the  flat  sweep  of  a  chisel.  The  cold  brightness  and  angular  beauty  of 
Maine  seem  to  have  affected  him  as  they  did  Winslow  Homer,  but  in 
Kent's  work  they  are  given  more  formalized  expression. 

Marin,  a  New  York  modern,  has  painted  many  aspects  of  the  Maine 
coast.  Since  his  work  is  marked  by  a  suppression  of  detail  and  all  unim- 
portant passages,  he  has  been  able  to  find  here  scenery  of  the  simplicity 
and  strength  which  his  method  seems  to  demand.  Although  his  work  is 
sometimes  baffling,  it  is  probable  that  future  critics  may  look  to  it  for  the 
sharp  quality  of  the  northern  seascape  and  landscape  which  in  this  part  of 
the  country  is  peculiarly  Maine's.  Stephen  Etnier  seems  to  combine  some- 
thing of  the  spirit  of  both  Kent  and  Marin,  with  a  human  quality  added; 
in  spite  of  his  prevailing  gray  mood,  he  may  finally  succeed  them  as  an 
interpreter  of  Maine  and  the  sea. 

Many  other  artists  in  Maine  are  doing  interesting  and  valuable  work, 
much  of  which  may  be  seen  at  exhibitions  held  from  time  to  time  in  the 
State  by  art  societies  and  other  groups.  Summer  studios  of  leading 
painters  are  scattered  along  the  coast,  each  forming  the  nucleus  for  a 
colony  of  artists,  pupils,  and  admiring  followers.  Among  those  who  have 
such  studios  are  John  P.  Benson  and  Russell  Cheney,  at  Kittery;  Charles 
H.  Woodbury,  at  Ogunquit;  Mildred  Burrage,  at  Kennebunkport; 
Alexander  Bower,  on  Cape  Elizabeth;  Edward  W.  Redfield,  at  Boothbay 
Harbor;  Jay  H.  Connaway,  at  Monhegan;  and  Carol  Tyson,  on  Mount 
Desert.  Many  of  the  colonies  maintain  summer  art  schools,  such  as  that 
at  Boothbay  Harbor.  Two  of  America's  best  known  contemporary 
sculptors  have  studios  in  Maine  —  Robert  Laurent  at  Ogunquit,  and 
William  Zorach  at  Georgetown,  where  the  late  Gaston  Lachaise  also 
worked  in  the  summer. 

There  are  two  permanent  museums  of  importance  in  Maine:  the 
Walker  Art  Gallery  at  Bowdoin  College  and  the  L.  D.  M.  Sweat  Memorial 
in  Portland,  the  latter  a  Georgian  mansion  of  architectural  and  historical 
importance  with  an  adjoining  art  gallery  containing  examples  of  the  work 
of  nineteenth-century  painters  and  of  many  Maine  artists.  The  Portland 
Society  of  Art,  owner  of  the  Sweat  Museum,  also  conducts  a  School  of 
Fine  and  Applied  Art,  the  only  school  of  its  kind  in  the  State.  The  Walker 
Gallery  contains  notable  collections  of  American  colonial  portraits 
and  of  classical  and  modern  art. 

The  most  important  private  art  collection  in  the  State  is  that  of  Booth 
Tarkington  at  Kennebunkport,  consisting  principally  of  paintings  by 
prominent  English  artists  of  the  eighteenth  century. 


The  Arts  105 


THE  THEATER 

Although  the  last  stronghold  of  the  'legitimate*  stage  as  a  continuous 
cultural  influence  passed  out  of  existence  in  Maine  when  the  time- 
honored  Jefferson  Theater  in  Portland  was  demolished,  the  increasingly 
popular  summer  playhouses  scattered  through  the  State  are  more  than 
making  up  for  its  loss,  and  the  amateur  work  of  high  schools  and  other 
groups  keeps  the  spirit  alive  in  communities  inaccessible  to  the  presenta- 
tions of  professional  players.  Lakewood,  near  Skowhegan,  established  in 
1901,  was  the  pioneer  among  summer  theater  colonies.  This  and  the 
Ogunquit  Playhouse  at  Ogunquit  bring  each  year  to  Maine  talented 
actors,,  producers,  designers,  technicians,  and  playwrights,  who  participate 
in  experimental  dramatic  productions  that  often  later  achieve  Broadway 
success.  The  work  of  the  summer  theaters,  always  interesting,  is  nation- 
ally important,  for  they  are  becoming  more  and  more  the  training  schools 
for  both  stage  and  screen.  Other  dramatic  groups  are  the  Mount  Desert 
Island  Players,  formerly  the  Surry  Players;  the  Garrick  Players  at 
Kennebunkport,  organized  in  1933;  and  the  Theater-in- the- Woods  at 
Boothbay  Harbor,  opened  in  1934.  There  are  many  lesser  groups,  not  so 
professional  as  these,  but  no  less  eager  and  hard-working. 

Two  native  daughters  of  Maine  who  have  achieved  prominence  on  the 
American  and  English  stage  are  Maxine  Elliott  (Jessie  Dermot)  and  her 
sister  Gertrude,  now  Lady  Forbes-Robertson.  Both  were  born  in  Rock- 
land. 

MUSIC 


From  the  day  when  the  seaman's  child  had  chanteys  for  lullabies  and 
the  woodsman's  babe  was  sung  to  sleep  with  rollicking  ballads,  music 
has  played  an  important  part  in  the  cultural  life  of  Maine  people.  The 
State  is  rich  in  a  heritage  of  balladry,  folk-songs,  and  dance  music  equaled 
only  by  that  of  some  of  the  southern  States.  Through  several  generations, 
songs  of  English,  Scottish,  and  particularly  Irish  origin  have  been  pre- 
served —  sometimes  within  a  single  family.  Today  scholars  and  musicians 
are  rinding  in  Maine  an  almost  untapped  source  of  old  folk-music  and 
poetry.  For  example,  within  only  eleven  days  of  actual  field  work  in 
September,  1928,  within  a  small  area  of  eastern  Maine,  one  collector  took 


io6  Maine:  The  General  Background 

down  199  valuable  old  airs,  most  of  which  are  reproduced  in  Barry,  Ecks- 
trom,  and  Smith's  'British  Ballads  from  Maine'  (New  Haven,  1929). 

Churches  have  always  fostered  and  encouraged  singing,  and  today  the 
most  active  congregations  are  often  the  ones  that  lift  up  their  voices  with 
greatest  fervor.  Indeed,  Maine's  chief  cultural  activity  lay  for  years  in  the 
field  of  music.  One  would  expect  this  in  a  State  which  has  produced  such 
great  musical  artists  as  Emma  Eames,  Lillian  Nordica,  and  Annie  Louise 
Gary.  John  Knowles  Paine,  one  of  America's  earliest  composers,  was  a 
Maine  man. 

Today  nearly  every  town  and  city  has  one  or  more  musical  clubs, 
among  which  Portland's  Rossini  Club  is  outstanding,  comprising  as  it 
does  many  gifted  and  highly  trained  performers.  Periodical  concerts  and 
annual  festivals  are  held  in  most  cities,  with  Bangor,  assisted  by  the 
facilities  of  the  near-by  University  of  Maine  at  Orono,  usually  taking  the 
lead.  For  nearly  a  third  of  a  century,  the  Maine  Music  Festivals  were  the 
most  important  events  on  the  calendar  for  every  music  lover  in  the  State. 
The  world's  great  artists  were  brought  here,  and  Maine's  own  chorus  of 
carefully  chosen  singers  from  all  parts  of  the  State  was  especially  trained 
for  the  occasion.  The  concerts,  beginning  at  Portland,  were  repeated  in 
all  the  other  large  cities.  But  the  death  of  William  R.  Chapman,  the 
motivating  spirit  behind  the  festivals,  marked  their  end  within  the  last 
decade.  Today  it  is  encouraging  that  the  possibility  of  their  revival  in  the 
near  future  is  under  active  discussion. 

Musical  activity  has  changed  considerably  in  the  past  twenty  years, 
and  has  come  to  take  a  subordinate  place  in  the  cultural  life  of  the  State. 
The  Maine  State  Opera  Company,  organized  in  1933,  lasted  but  one  sea- 
son. Music  in  the  colleges,  though  diligently  cultivated,  has  not  the 
popularity  it  once  knew.  The  colleges,  however,  as  well  as  outstanding 
civic  groups,  bring  to  the  principal  Maine  cities  each  year  musical  artists 
of  national  or  world  prominence. 

A  significant  cultural  movement  is  under  way  in  the  recently  developed 
summer  music  camps.  In  most  summer  camps,  opportunities  are  pro- 
vided for  the  study  of  music;  but  not  until  the  Eastern  Music  Camp  was 
opened  in  1931,  on  Lake  Messalonskee  in  Sidney,  did  Maine  have  a 
summer  school  devoted  exclusively  to  music.  This  ambitious  experiment, 
offering  an  eight-weeks  program  of  musical  education,  has  received 
deserved  acclaim.  Twice  a  week  it  presents  excellent  concerts,  under  such 
eminent  guest  conductors  as  Walter  Damrosch  and  Howard  Hanson. 
Music  camps  have  also  been  established  at  Castine,  Vinalhaven,  and 
other  places  through  the  State. 


The  Arts  107 


There  are  several  important  summer  colonies  of  musicians,  for  the 
most  part  along  the  coast  and  usually  centering  around  some  single 
prominent  artist.  At  Kneisel  Hall  in  Bluehill,  weekly  concerts  of  chamber 
music  are  the  result  of  classes  carried  on  by  the  children  of  the  late 
Franz  Kneisel.  Camden  has  been  called  the  summer  harp  center  of 
America,  and  there  is  much  musical  activity  at  Bar  Harbor  during  the 
season. 

Interesting  work  is  being  done  in  the  C.C.C.  camps  and  in  W.P.A. 
groups  with  band  and  orchestral  music,  providing  through  government 
agencies  the  facilities  for  musical  training  which  many  could  not  other- 
wise obtain.  But  perhaps  the  most  favorable  portent  for  music  in  Maine 
is  the  enthusiasm  for  playing  and  singing  that  is  evident  in  the  public 
schools.  This  is  fostered  by  a  high  school  band  and  orchestra  contest 
staged  throughout  New  England.  The  State's  training  schools  are  send- 
ing out  to  the  public  schools  teachers  who  have  been  given  a  thorough 
groundwork  of  musical  knowledge,  which  many  of  them  supplement  with 
a  playing  knowledge  of  several  instruments. 


HANDICRAFTS 


CRAFTS  in  early  Maine  were  very  similar  to  those  in  Massachu- 
setts. The  things  people  made  with  their  hands  were  necessities,  but 
that  they  were  necessities  did  not  prevent  them  from  being  beautiful  also; 
often,  indeed,  the  discipline  of  necessity  made  for  beauty.  The  objects  pro- 
duced have  some  of  the  chief  characteristics  of  their  creators  —  simplicity, 
sturdiness,  practicability,  spiced  with  unpredictable  quirks  of  Yankee 
ingenuity.  The  outside  influences  upon  Maine  craftsmanship,  though 
slight,  included  English,  greatly  simplified;  French  through  Canada,  in 
floral  motifs  for  rugs  and  embroidery;  and  Oriental,  from  objects  brought 
home  by  ships  in  the  China  trade.  There  are  stenciled  trays  that  bear 
two  Oriental  figures  with  parakeets  on  their  hands,  surrounded  by  familiar 
New  England  flower  and  leaf  motifs.  The  articles  women  made  for  their 
homes  with  needle,  loom,  and  hook  are  full  of  artistry,  and  represent  a 
large  proportion  of  the  early  craftwork  of  Maine. 

The  old  New  England  art  of  making  hooked  rugs  originated  in  Maine 
and  Nova  Scotia.  The  earliest  and  best  rugs  represent  truly  native 
craftsmanship,  for  the  designs  were  original  and  the  material  was  of 
wool  from  home-raised  sheep,  carded  and  spun  at  home,  and  dyed  with 
home-made  colors.  Designs  were  inspired  by  familiar  objects.  The  most 
beautiful  were  floral  and  wreath  patterns,  probably  partly  French  in 
origin,  free  and  intricate  in  design,  with  large  cabbage  roses,  small 
harebells,  daisies,  goldenrod,  and  other  native  flowers  surrounded  and 
entwined  by  large  scroll-like  leaf  motifs,  on  a  white  or  nearly  white 
ground.  The  finest  of  these  reveal  as  much  esthetic  sense,  beauty  of  de- 
sign, and  mastery  of  craft  as  a  piece  of  glazed  terra  cotta  or  a  stained- 
glass  window.  Pictorial  rugs  were  common,  though  not  so  fine;  a  cat 
curled  on  a  hearth,  landscapes  quite  lacking  in  perspective,  marine  pat- 
terns with  ships,  compasses,  shells,  and  anchors  —  these  are  a  few  of  the 
subjects  used.  There  were  also  many  geometric  patterns. 

The  very  earliest  rugs  were  made  on  hand-loomed  linen,  but  this  was 
soon  superseded  by  burlap  or  sacking.  The  design  was  sketched  on  the 
background  material  in  free-hand.  When  stamped  patterns  were  put 
on  the  market  in  the  nineteenth  century,  much  of  the  beauty  of  design 
disappeared.  Many  early  rugs  were  hooked,  not  only  of  wool  yarns  and 


Handicrafts  109 


woven  materials,  but  contained  also  bits  of  calico  and  cotton.  Character- 
istic of  Maine  and  Nova  Scotia  was  the  practice  of  creating  an  effect  of 
relief  either  by  hooking  parts  of  the  design  higher  than  the  rest  or  by 
contrasting  clipped  and  undipped  areas. 

Colors  for  rugs,  and  for  clothing  and  embroidery  as  well,  were  ingen- 
iously concocted  from  a  variety  of  materials.  Extract  could  be  purchased 
for  black  and  indigo  for  blue;  but  browns  and  dull  greens  came  from 
white  maple,  butternut,  sumac,  and  hemlock  bark,  and  from  sweet 
fern;  and  yellow  from  onion  peelings  and  urine.  Until  housewives  could 
buy  vermilion,  reds  were  extremely  difficult  to  create.  Beet  root  made  a 
rich  magenta,  but  had  no  permanency,  and  the  same  was  true  of  various 
berries.  All  colors  were  set  with  copperas  and  lye,  the  latter  being  ob- 
tained by  pouring  boiling  water  over  wood  ashes. 

After  the  early  nineteenth  century,  the  art  of  making  hooked  rugs 
almost  vanished.  The  few  that  were  made  were  cheap  in  material,  coarse 
in  technique,  and  of  stamped  design.  However,  popular  interest  in  an- 
tiques has  brought  about  a  revival  of  this  old  craft,  and  many  women  are 
again  making  rugs.  They  are  not  creating  original  designs,  however,  but 
are  trying  to  copy  the  old.  Few  of  these  copies  equal  the  beauty  of  the 
old  patterns,  and  the  sincerity  of  creative  craftsmanship  is  missing. 

Braided  rugs  are  even  earlier  than  hooked  rugs  in  the  country  as  a 
whole,  but  are  not  particularly  native  to  Maine.  They  are  now  being 
made  by  hand  extremely  well  at  the  Old  Sparhawk  Mills  in  South  Port- 
land, where  local  artisans  design  the  rugs,  dye  the  materials  to  match 
any  given  color  scheme,  and  sew  the  rugs  exactly  as  they  were  originally 
made.  In  the  Williamsburg,  Virginia,  restoration  these  rugs  were  used 
throughout. 

Weaving  in  the  early  days  was  a  universal  craft,  scarcely  less  impor- 
tant than  cooking.  Cottons,  linens,  woolens,  and  other  fabrics  such  as 
'linsey-woolsey'  or  'luster'  (a  glazed  linen  and  wool  material)  were 
made  by  every  housewife.  There  has  been  a  recent  revival  of  weaving 
at  Limerick,  Maine,  where  the  women  used  yarn  from  the  Limerick  Yarn 
Mills  for  hand-loom  weaving  of  excellent  yard  goods,  scarves,  curtains, 
etc.,  which  they  sold  through  a  central  shop.  However,  the  closing  of  the 
mills  in  1932,  and  their  subsequent  reopening  under  new  management  to 
make  different  types  of  yarn,  brought  this  very  worthy  enterprise  to  an 
end;  although  some  of  the  women  continue  to  weave  there. 

Quilts  were  made  in  Maine,  as  in  the  rest  of  New  England.  Many  of 
the  best  ones  were  not  of  patchwork,  but  derived  their  beauty  from 
intricate  quilting  and  lovely  materials.  One  of  the  finest  old  quilts  in 


no  Maine:  The  General  Background 

Maine,  belonging  to  Mrs.  Charles  Crosby  of  Waterville,  is  made  of  indigo- 
blue  linsey-woolsey  backed  with  a  light-weight  yellow  homespun  blanket, 
and  quilted  in  an  extraordinarily  fine  and  beautiful  pattern  of  the  familiar 
New  England  pineapple,  feather,  and  shell  motifs. 

Crewel  embroideries  were  also  done  in  Maine  in  the  seventeenth  and 
eighteenth  centuries.  Yarns  of  home-produced  wool,  spun  and  dyed  at 
home,  were  sewed  into  bold  and  decorative  leaf  and  flower  patterns  on 
homespun  cotton  petticoats,  bedspreads,  and  hangings.  Colors  were  pre- 
pared as  for  hooked  rugs,  with  often  many  gradations  of  one  hue  as  the 
wool  was  removed  from  the  dye  pot  a  little  at  a  time.  The  motifs  of 
flowers  arranged  on  long  twisting  stems  were  similar  to  those  which  ap- 
pear on  rugs  and  quilts.  But  the  patterns  often  showed  much  originality 
and  inventiveness  in  the  use  of  bird,  animal,  monogram,  basket,  and 
ribbon  motifs.  The  finest  crewel  embroideries  in  Maine  are  the  bed- 
spread and  hangings  made  between  1745  and  1750  by  Mrs.  Mary  Bulman 
of  York  and  now  in  the  'Old  Gaol  Museum'  at  York.  The  Redington 
Museum  at  Waterville  has  a  very  fine  spread  of  the  same  period. 

Innumerable  lesser  related  crafts  practiced  in  early  Maine  included  the 
making  of  dolls,  embroidered  pictures,  plain  samplers,  mourning  samplers 
in  black  and  white,  needlepoint  work,  etc. 

Of  the  decorative  crafts  associated  with  the  shipbuilding  industry, 
the  most  interesting  in  the  great  middle  nineteenth  century  period  of 
sail  was  woodcarving.  Although  carving  for  the  decoration  of  ships 
had  been  done  in  Europe  for  hundreds  of  years,  the  figureheads,  trail- 
boards,  mast-sheaths,  etc.,  carved  in  Maine,  New  Hampshire,  and 
Massachusetts  represent  an  artistic  development  as  genuine,  native,  and 
inventive  as  any  craft  at  any  time.  Colonel  C.  A.  L.  Sampson  of  Bath 
was  probably  the  most  famous  of  the  Maine  carvers,  and  his  decorations 
for  hundreds  of  ships  built  in  that  town  went  far  around  the  world.  At  his 
death  in  1881  his  business  was  bought  by  William  Southworth,  who  had 
conducted  a  carver's  shop  in  Newcastle  and  had  learned  the  trade  from 
Edward  S.  Griffin  of  Portland.  Other  Maine  carvers  were  Seavey  of  Ban- 
gor,  Harvey  Counce  of  Thomas  ton,  and  Woodbury  Potter  of  Bath.  Each 
of  these  men  maintained  a  shop  with  apprentices,  near  the  shipyards. 
Southworth  carved  more  than  five  hundred  figureheads,  spending  about 
eighteen  days  to  a  figure  and  receiving  from  two  hundred  and  fifty  to 
four  hundred  dollars  for  each.  The  material  used  was  pumpkin  pine, 
common  on  the  Maine  coast  at  that  tune;  and  the  subjects  were  usually 
life-sized  females,  although  Indians,  military  figures,  and  even  birds  and 
animals  were  fairly  common.  They  were  brightly  painted.  Sampson's 


Handicrafts  1 1 1 


famous  'Belle  of  Bath,'  'Belle  of  Oregon,'  'Western  Belle,'  and  others 
were  gleaming  gold  and  white.  Although  many  of  the  figures  seem  gener- 
ous in  proportion,  they  have  extraordinary  realism  and  grace.  Sampson 
frequently  portrayed  his  figures  in  stylish  dress  blown  swirling  backward 
in  the  wind,  with  head  erect  and  one  arm  extended,  creating  on  the  whole 
an  effect  of  life,  strength,  and  beauty.  Although  the  figureheads  were  the 
most  spectacular,  many  smaller  decorative  pieces  were  carved  to  adorn 
the  ships.  Nearly  always  the  stern  bore  a  carving  in  relief  partially  or 
entirely  surrounding  the  name  of  the  vessel;  these  commonly  depicted 
cornucopiae  of  fruit,  eagles  with  spread  wings,  crossed  flags,  portrait 
heads,  and  even  landscapes  embellished  with  gold  or  white  scroll-like 
leaf  forms.  Many  a  pilot  house  was  topped  with  an  eagle  or  a  rooster. 
Billet-heads  of  curling  acanthus  leaves,  lovely  in  design,  were  sometimes 
used  instead  of  figureheads. 

In  all  of  these  pieces  the  carving  is  bold  and  direct.  The  tools  used 
were  few  and  simple.  One  can  accurately  judge  the  size  and  curve  of  the 
chisels  from  the  long,  even  grooves  in  leaves  and  drapery.  The  use  of 
tools  and  material  to  best  advantage,  with  no  attempt  to  camouflage 
either,  is  evidence  of  the  sincere  craftsmanship  that  went  into  their 
making. 

The  use  of  carved  decoration  spread  beyond  the  adornment  of  ships 
and  crept  into  the  homes  and  public  buildings  of  coastal  towns.  Weath- 
ervanes,  architectural  details,  insignia  for  public  buildings,  chests  and 
other  furniture,  reveal  the  hand  of  the  ship  carver.  Edbury  Hatch  of 
Newcastle,  apprentice  to  Southworth,  adorned  his  house  with  carved 
leaves,  flowers,  animals'  heads,  snakes,  and  the  Maine  seal;  and  for  a 
Japanese  print  of  a  dog  treeing  a  cat  he  carved  a  frame  in  which  chubby 
New  England  cats  and  dogs  in  high  relief  chase  one  another. 

There  are  very  few  skilled  carvers  in  the  State  at  the  present  time. 
Lloyd  Thomas,  a  young  resident  of  Camden,  decorates  chests  with  full- 
rigged  ships  and  other  nautical  motifs  much  in  the  manner  of  the  old- 
time  carvers.  Colby  Williams  of  Wiscasset  carves  miniature  oxen,  drawing 
wagons  and  sledges,  which  are  of  fine  craftsmanship.  Karl  Von  Rydings- 
vard  of  Portland  is  a  talented  carver  who  not  only  works  in  the  New 
England  tradition  but  does  chests  and  screens  of  Gothic  or  Elizabethan 
style. 

The  making  of  ship  models  became  an  important  art  in  nineteenth- 
century  Maine.  So-called  half  models,  beautifully  finished  and  mounted 
on  a  flat  background,  were  made  for  every  new  vessel,  and  are  now  fre- 
quently used  for  decorative  purposes.  Ship  models,  from  one  inch  to 


112  Maine:  The  General  Background 

four  feet  in  length,  fully  rigged,  have  been  made  ever  since  ships  were 
built,  usually  by  the  builders  or  sailors  of  the  ships  thus  reproduced. 
They  reveal  much  delicate  and  patient  craftsmanship.  Two  of  the  men 
still  making  ship  models  are  Frederic  W.  Snow  of  Kennebunkport  and 
Mr.  Candage  of  South  Bluehill,  the  latter  a  former  old  sailor. 

Early  Maine  cabinet  work,  while  similar  in  general  to  that  in  the  rest 
of  New  England,  was  cruder  and  more  provincial.  Much  of  the  furniture 
was  adorned  with  stenciled  leaf,  fruit,  and  flower  motifs,  and  occasionally 
a  landscape  —  often  against  a  black  background.  Bronze  powders  of 
various  shades  were  applied  through  the  stencil,  with  little  cloth  bags  or 
powder  puffs,  to  tacky  paint.  Intricacy  of  cutting,  delicacy  of  shading, 
and  the  gradual  building  up  of  a  pattern  from  a  number  of  stencils  are 
characteristic  of  the  best  work.  Trays  and  boxes  were  also  stenciled  in 
bronzes,  and  floors  and  walls  were  sometimes  stenciled  with  colored  paint. 

Stevens  Plains,  now  a  part  of  Portland,  was  the  center  of  activity  for 
a  number  of  metal  workers  in  the  late  eighteenth  and  early  nineteenth 
centuries.  Zachariah  Stevens,  born  in  1778,  was  the  founder  of  a  tin 
industry  which  in  the  early  iSoo's  employed  thirty  or  forty  men  in  that 
locality.  This  early  tinware  consists  of  charming  little  chest-like  boxes, 
trays  of  various  shapes,  tea  caddies,  etc.  It  is  painted  (most  frequently 
in  black  though  sometimes  in  yellow  or  white)  and  decorated  in  Japan 
colors  with  small  leaves  and  bright  red,  green,  and  yellow  flowers.  Tin- 
smiths traveled  through  the  countryside  selling  their  wares,  at  the  same 
time  buying  up  at  a  low  price  much  old  pewter  to  melt  for  tin. 

Pewterers  were  also  working  in  this  region  at  the  same  time.  Allen 
and  Freeman  Porter  established  the  trade;  they  were  succeeded  by  Rufus 
Dunham,  who  worked  in  Stevens  Plains  until  1882  and  maintained  a  shop 
employing  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  artisans.  The  making  of  pewter  as 
such  came  to  an  end  very  soon  after  1845,  when  Britannia  ware  became 
popular.  Much  fine  old  pewter  was  undoubtedly  melted  to  go  into  the 
new  and  inferior  metal. 

Metal  craftsmanship  in  Maine  at  the  present  time  is  in  general  confined 
to  the  making  of  jewelry.  This  art  is  taught  at  the  School  of  Fine  Arts 
in  Portland  and  at  many  of  the  summer  camps,  and  is  practiced  with 
skill  and  artistry  by  a  few  persons  —  chiefly  Miss  Madeline  Burrage  of 
Kennebunkport  and  Mr.  Ernest  Gookin  of  Ogunquit. 

Decorative  hand-wrought  iron  is  made  by  Ernest  Wright  of  Camden, 
and  by  Charles  Westcott,  Jr.,  a  blacksmith  of  Bluehill,  who  works  from 
designs  by  Mrs.  Lucie  Barbour.  Mr.  Weston  of  Bremen  carries  on  the 
traditions  of  his  father  and  grandfather  in  the  making  of  wrought  iron; 


Handicrafts  113 


he  has  many  of  his  grandfather's  designs  for  brackets,  latches,  chandeliers, 
etc. 

Ceramics  were  of  no  importance  in  the  history  of  the  crafts  in  Maine 
until  the  twentieth  century.  Because  of  the  exceptionally  fine  quality 
of  the  clay  available  there,  the  Bluehill  region  has  become  a  center  for 
this  craft. 

The  only  systematic  effort  now  being  made  to  foster  handicrafts  in 
Maine  is  by  the  Extension  Service  of  the  United  States  Department  of 
Agriculture.  There  are  many,  however,  who  hope  that  the  plan  for  a 
Maine  Crafts  Guild  will  eventually  receive  sufficient  private  and  State 
support  to  make  such  an  organization  possible. 


II.      SEAPORTS      AND 
RIVER      TOWNS 


AUGUSTA 


City:  Alt.  120,  pop.  17,198,  sett.  1629,  incorp.  town  1797,  county  seat  1799,  city 

1849,  State  Capital  1832. 

Railroad  Station:   34$  Water  St.,  for  M.C.  R.R. 

Bus  Stations:  Hotel  North,  264  Water  St.,  for  M.C.  Transportation  Co.,  Grey 

Lines,  and  Augusta-Belfast  Stages. 

Airport:  Winthrop  St.,  0.5  m.  west  of  business  district,  for  B.  &  M.  Airways. 

Accommodations:  Two  hotels. 

Swimming:  Togus  Pond,  Threecornered  Pond,  Lake  Cobbosseecontee. 

Information  Service:  Augusta  Chamber  of  Commerce,  City  Bldg.,  Cony  St., 
E.  end  Kennebec  Bridge;  Maine  Development  Commission,  State  House, 
State  St. 

Annual  Events:  Maine  National  Guard  Muster,  2  weeks,  July;  Annual  Boy 
Scout  Carnival,  on  or  near  Feb.  22. 

AUGUSTA,  State  capital  and  Kennebec  County  seat,  rises  in  a  series  of 
terraces  and  sharp  inclines  east  and  west  of  the  bisecting  Kennebec  River. 
It  is  at  the  head  of  river  navigation;  although  forty-five  miles  from  open 
sea,  there  is  an  approximate  tide  range  of  four  feet.  The  city  differs  from 
most  Maine  communities  occupying  both  sides  of  a  river  in  that  it  has 
not  developed  into  two  separate  municipalities,  or  twin  cities.  The  ma- 
jority of  its  industrial  and  business  establishments,  as  well  as  an  extensive 
residential  area,  are  on  the  west  side  of  the  river.  Yet  business,  indus- 
tries, and  residences  are  so  segregated  that  the  casual  visitor  seldom 
realizes  that  the  city  is  more  than  a  pleasant  residential  community 
grouped  about  the  center  of  the  State's  political  activity. 

The  social  groups  common  to  an  industrial  city  of  the  size  and  type  of 
Augusta  are  augmented  by  a  wide  variety  of  county,  State,  and  Federal 
employees.  The  predominating  racial  groups  are  of  English  and  French- 
Canadian  descent.  The  latter,  making  up  approximately  15  per  cent  of 
the  city's  population,  is  largely  concentrated  in  the  northwestern  section. 
More  than  half  of  the  population  own  their  own  homes,  and,  although 
there  are  a  few  tenement  areas,  there  are  no  slums  or  highly  congested 
residential  sections.  On  the  other  hand,  like  many  Maine  cities,  Augusta 
suffers  from  lack  of  adequate  modern  apartment  and  lodging-house 
facilities. 

The  Augusta  city  government  is  of  the  mayor-council  type  (two-year 
term),  but  distinguished  from  the  usual  municipal  administration  in  that 
the  mayor  directly  controls  all  the  fields  of  government.  He  appoints 
the  heads  of  departments  without  confirmation  by  the  city  council  and 


1 1 8  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

does  not  require  the  council's  permission  to  remove  the  appointees  from 
office. 

The  Kennebec  has  flowed  through  all  Augusta's  history  and  shaped 
the  course  of  its  development.  To  the  Indian,  the  Manitou  Kennebec 
('river-god')  was  not  only  a  highway  and  a  source  of  food;  at  times  it 
was  an  angry  god  that  crushed  canoes  and  swallowed  its  victims  or  swept 
away  entire  villages  when  in  flood.  To  the  early  traders  the  river  gave 
ingress  to  the  treasures  of  the  Kennebec  Valley,  furs  and  fish;  later  it 
carried  wealth  for  the  men  of  Augusta  in  the  form  of  lumber,  brought 
prosperity  in  trade  through  river  traffic,  turned  the  city's  mills,  and  pro- 
vided a  lucrative  harvest  in  ice  from  its  frozen  surface.  Today,  long  after 
the  Indians  and  traders,  the  ships  and  the  ice  harvest  have  departed, 
the  river  continues  to  supply  the  city  with  wealth  in  another  form  - 
water-power.  And  still,  too,  it  strikes  out  at  man's  bridges,  dams,  and 
buildings  when  in  flood. 

The  Indians  called  Augusta  Cushnoc  (also  Koussinock  and  Cusinock). 
The  name  has  been  given  several  interpretations:  one,  that  the  site  was 
so  called  because  'the  tide  runs  no  farther  up  the  Kennebec';  another, 
that  it  meant  'the  consecrated  place/  since  the  Indians  held  annual 
meetings  here  and  seemed  to  consider  it  in  a  sense  hallowed. 

Sacred  or  not,  Cushnoc  was  of  value  to  the  Plymouth  Colony  of  Massa- 
chusetts. Trade  on  the  Kennebec  was  begun  immediately  after  the  grant 
of  the  Kennebec  Patent  in  1628-29.  In  1628  the  Plymouth  men  estab- 
lished a  trading  post  on  the  approximate  site  of  Fort  Western,  'ye  most 
convenient  place  for  trade.'  John  Rowland,  the  'lustie  yonge  man' 
who  was  washed  overboard  during  the  'Mayflower'  crossing  and  nearly 
lost,  was  the  first  agent  in  command  of  the  Cushnoc  post.  In  1634  he 
shared  this  office  with  John  Alden,  immortalized  by  Longfellow's  'The 
Courtship  of  Miles  Standish.'  Alden  was  falsely  accused  of  murder  be- 
cause of  two  deaths  in  that  year  arising  from  a  dispute  with  a  rival  com- 
pany over  the  trading  rights  at  Cushnoc.  Miles  Standish  made  frequent 
trips  to  the  post,  and  Governor  William  Bradford  is  said  to  have  visited  it. 
Captain  Thomas  Willett,  later  Governor  of  New  York,  was  a  successor  of 
Howland  and  Alden,  and  another  notable  commander  of  the  post  (1647- 
53)  was  John  Winslow,  brother  of  Governor  Edward  Winslow  of  Massa- 
chusetts;  Winslow  was  an  intimate  friend  of  Father  Gabriel  Druillettes, 
the  Jesuit  missionary,  making  him  welcome  at  the  post  on  several  occa- 
sions. 

Fur  trading  was  highly  profitable  to  the  Pilgrims,  so  much  so  that  it  is 
said  that  their  debts  to  the  Merchant  Adventurers  of  London  for  the 
expenses  of  the  'Mayflower'  expedition  were  paid  with  furs  brought  from 
the  Kennebec.  After  more  than  thirty-two  years  of  trading,  amicable 
relations  with  the  Indians  were  severed  by  the  Indian  wars,  and  English 
occupation  at  Cushnoc  was  abandoned  for  more  than  three-quarters  of 
a  century.  However,  industry  and  the  white  man's  civilization  had  gained 
their  first  foothold  in  Cushnoc,  and  the  Plymouth  patent  was  the  foun- 
dation of  future  land  titles. 


Augusta  119 


During  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century  the  'Proprietors  of  the 
Kennebec  Purchase'  sought  to  bring  settlers  into  the  region.  In  1754, 
Fort  Western  was  erected  on  the  east  bank  of  the  river.  Named  for 
Thomas  Western  of  Sussex,  England,  a  friend  of  Governor  William 
Shirley,  the  fort  was  one  of  three  built  on  the  Kennebec  in  1754:  Fort 
Halifax,  the  northernmost,  about  sixty-five  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Kennebec,  near  the  present  town  of  Winslow;  Fort  Western,  about  forty- 
five  miles  from  the  river's  mouth;  and  Fort  Shirley,  on  the  site  of  the 
present  town  of  Dresden.  Captain  James  Howard,  the  first  and  only 
commander  of  Fort  Western,  was  Augusta's  first  permanent  settler  and 
a  strong  influence  in  the  early  development  of  the  city. 

The  defeat  of  Montcalm  at  Quebec  in  1759  made  the  Kennebec  safe  for 
pioneers,  and  the  fort  was  dismantled  (except  the  garrison  building,  the 
only  one  extant  in  Maine  built  prior  to  the  Revolution)  without  ever 
having  been  attacked.  The  Benedict  Arnold  expedition  gathered  here 
for  a  week  in  September,  1775,  before  starting  on  the  first  leg  of  its 
Quebec  journey. 

A  few  miles  south  of  the  fort  a  settlement,  called  Hallowell,  had  been 
made  in  1762.  At  the  time  of  its  incorporation  into  a  town,  in  1771, 
Fort  Western  was  included.  The  two  settlements  became  known  as  the 
Fort  and  the  Hook,  the  latter  name  taken  from  Bombahook  Stream  at 
Hallowell.  At  this  time  the  western  side  of  the  Fort  settlement  began  to 
outstrip  the  eastern,  aided  by  the  industrial  advantage  of  a  sawmill  at 
Bond  Brook.  Lumber  was  an  important  source  of  wealth,  and  in  many 
instances  pine  boards  took  the  place  of  currency.  In  1780  the  town  voted 
to  pay  each  of  its  Continental  soldiers  2500  feet  of  pine  boards  plus  the 
other  bounty  granted. 

On  the  whole,  however,  the  settlement  at  the  Hook  advanced  more 
rapidly  in  wealth  and  population  than  the  Fort,  and  rivalry  gradually 
arose.  In  1796,  the  Hook's  leadership  was  threatened  by  Fort  inhabitants 
who  sought  construction  of  a  bridge  to  replace  the  ferry  that  ran  from 
the  foot  of  Winthrop  St.  to  the  Fort  landing.  To  the  chagrin  of  the  Hook 
people,  the  first  bridge  over  the  Kennebec  was  completed  at  Augusta 
that  same  year.  The  resultant  jealousy  between  the  settlements  necessi- 
tated a  division.  Hallowell  retained  its  present  name,  and  the  Fort  be- 
came Harrington,  after  Lord  Harrington,  when  it  was  incorporated  as  a 
separate  town,  February  20,  1797.  The  name,  however,  was  not  agree- 
able, probably  because  the  Hallowell  wits  corrupted  it  to  'Herring- 
town,'  and  on  June  9  of  the  same  year  it  was  changed  to  Augusta.  Ac- 
counts of  the  origin  of  the  name  differ,  but  one  interpretation  is  that  the 
town  was  called  Augusta  in  honor  of  Pamela  Augusta  Dearborn,  a  daugh- 
ter of  General  Henry  Dearborn,  the  prominent  Revolutionary  soldier 
who  was  elected  Representative  to  the  Continental  Congress  from  the 
Kennebec  District  in  1783.  Two  years  after  its  incorporation  Augusta 
became  shire  town  of  Kennebec  County. 

After  the  turn  of  the  century,  Augusta  entered  upon  a  new  era  of  develop- 
ment, although  Hallowell  was  the  social  and  commercial  metropolis  of 


I2O  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

the  region.  The  settlers'  struggle  for  possession  of  the  land  against  the 
claims  of  the  proprietors  came  to  a  sharp  focus  in  Augusta.  In  1809, 
Paul  Chadwick,  one  of  a  party  of  surveyors  sent  out  to  establish  a  land 
claim  in  Malta  (Windsor),  was  murdered  by  squatters  disguised,  in 
Boston  Tea-Party  style,  as  Indians.  Seven  of  the  squatters  were  put  in 
the  Augusta  jail.  Shortly  after,  about  seventy  men  descended  upon  the 
town  in  an  attempt  to  release  the  Malta  prisoners,  and  the  community 
was  thrown  into  a  state  of  turmoil.  Several  companies  of  soldiers  were 
called  out  from  near-by  towns  to  guard  the  courthouse,  jail,  and  the 
homes  of  some  of  the  land  proprietors,  and  a  cannon  was  placed  on  the 
west  side  in  a  position  to  sweep  the  bridge.  There  was  continual  rioting, 
and  it  was  deemed  necessary  to  keep  the  guard  for  six  weeks,  until  after 
the  prisoners'  trial.  Fortunately  for  the  general  peace,  they  were  found 
not  guilty.  'The  Malta  War,'  as  it  was  called,  was  one  of  the  most  serious 
disputes  between  settlers  and  landowners  in  Maine;  it  cost  the  Common- 
wealth of  Massachusetts  over  $11,000  for  supplies  and  military  services 
rendered. 

River  traffic  on  the  Kennebec  had  already  entered  upon  an  era  that  was  to 
see  a  whole  fleet  of  schooners  plying  weekly  between  Augusta  and  Boston 
by  1840.  Freight  from  deep-water  vessels  was  often  transferred  to  long 
boats  at  Augusta  and  thence  towed  up-river  through  the  rapids  by  oxen, 
which  were  driven  through  the  shoals  when  there  was  not  enough  room  to 
permit  their  passage  along  shore.  Augusta  had  its  share  of  the  more  than 
five  hundred  vessels  built  between  Winslow  and  Gardiner,  thousands  of 
tons  of  shipping  were  owned  in  the  city  and  neighboring  communities, 
and  it  was  not  rare  to  see  a  score  or  so  of  vessels  berthed  at  Augusta 
wharves.  Although  the  arrival  of  the  first  train  in  Augusta  in  1851,  an- 
nounced by  'wild  screams  such  as  locomotives  are  rarely  permitted  to 
utter,'  predestined  the  decline  of  the  river  trade,  schooners  and  tug-drawn 
barges  conducted  a  profitable  export  business  into  the  present  century, 
exchanging  cargoes  of  ice  or  lumber  for  produce  and  coal.  Steamboat 
travel  to  Bath  and  Boston  was  inaugurated  in  1826,  and  six  years  later  a 
line  ran  up-river  to  Waterville. 

The  establishment  of  a  United  States  Arsenal  at  Augusta  in  1828  and  the 
founding  of  the  State  Hospital  eleven  years  later,  two  events  contributing 
to  the  town's  prestige,  supplemented  the  even  more  important  occasion 
of  1832,  when  Augusta  became  the  State  capital. 

By  1849  the  population  of  Augusta  had  increased  (8225  in  1850)  so  that 
the  town  was  authorized  to  adopt  a  city  form  of  government.  At  no 
period  had  wealth  been  so  great  or  indications  of  prosperity  more  marked. 
A  cotton  factory  and  sawmills  at  the  dam,  constructed  in  1837,  were  in 
full  operation,  while  the  tonnage  of  ocean  and  river  traffic  was  increasing. 
However,  various  checks,  such  as  the  gold  rush  of  '49  and  the  Civil  War, 
interfered  with  the  city's  development.  Steamboat  traffic,  like  that  of 
the  sailing  vessels,  fell  off  in  time  because  of  railroad  competition  and  the 
lack  of  patronage.  In  1865  a  devastating  fire  razed  nearly  ah1  of  the  busi- 
ness district. 


Augusta  121 


Various  distinguished  men  visited  the  city  during  its  mid-nineteenth 
century  period  of  growth.  General  Winfield  Scott  made  Augusta  his 
headquarters  for  three  weeks  in  1839  while  negotiating  the  settlement  of 
the  northeastern  boundary  dispute  at  the  conclusion  of  'the  Aroostook 
War.'  General  U.  S.  Grant  stopped  in  the  city  on  several  occasions,  and 
in  1867,  General  Phil  Sheridan  visited  Augusta  as  a  guest  of  the  State. 
A  local  account  of  the  visit  runs :  '  General  Phil  Sheridan  rides  into  Au- 
gusta. School  children  sing  "Sheridan's  Ride"  from  elevated  steps 

Phil  rides  off  in  closed  carriage  after  singing,  and  wasn't  seen  again 

Mothers  checked  up  on  their  daughters  to  see  if  they  had  gone  for  a  ride 
with  Sheridan,  but  none  were  missing.  This  was  known  as  Sheridan's 
Second  Ride,  but  no  poem  was  ever  written  about  it  that  we  know  of 
today.' 

Six  Augusta  citizens  have  become  Governors  of  Maine.  A  native  son, 
Melville  W.  Fuller  (1833-1910),  became  Chief  Justice  of  the  U.S.  Supreme 
Court  (1888-1910),  writing  829  decisions  during  his  twenty-two  years  of 
office. 

Lumber  and  the  paper  industry,  textile  mills,  publishing  houses,  and  the 
shoe  industry  figure  largely  in  the  history  of  Augusta's  economic  develop- 
ment. Forty-two  industries  employ  nearly  two  thousand  men  and  women, 
exclusive  of  hundreds  of  others  in  governmental  and  commercial  employ. 
Augusta  is  the  trading  center  for  more  than  75,000  city  and  suburban 
residents.  The  presence  of  the  State  and  county  departments  has  had 
much  to  do  with  Augusta's  progress;  were  it  not  for  these,  it  is  question- 
able whether  the  city  would  be  much  more  than  a  small  industrial  town. 
But  as  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Maine  it  has  the  characteristics  of  a 
secure,  political-industrial  metropolis. 


TOUR  1—  2.7  m. 

E.  from  E.  end  of  the  Kennebec  Bridge  on  Cony  St.;  R.  on  Bowman  St. 

i.  Fort  Western  (open  daily  in  summer  9-5;  adm.  10f£  and  25^),  Bowman 
St.,  and  the  land  it  occupies  are  probably  as  replete  with  historic  associa- 
tions as  any  place  along  the  Kennebec  River.  On  the  site  of  the  Plymouth 
trading  post,  established  a  few  years  after  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims 
in  America,  a  fort  was  erected  in  1754  as  a  protection  against  the  Indians. 
The  fort  consisted  of  two  blockhouses,  a  building  for  storerooms,  bar- 
racks, officers'  quarters,  and  parade  grounds,  the  whole  enclosed  by  a 
palisade.  The  original  garrison  house  has  been  restored  and  furnished 
with  Colonial  antiques,  and  reproductions  of  the  original  blockhouses  and 
palisades  have  been  built  by  William  Howard  Gannett,  a  descendant  of 
the  fort's  first  commander.  One  room,  chiefly  devoted  to  collections  from 
the  Southwest,  is  dedicated  to  W.  Herbert  Dunton,  native  Augusta  artist 
and  illustrator. 


122  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

2.  A  Boulder  and  Tablet  south  of  Fort  Western  commemorate  the  passage 
of  the  Benedict  Arnold  expedition  in  September,  1775.   The  tablet  was 
placed  by  the  Second  Company,  Governor's  Foot  Guard,  of  New  Haven, 
Connecticut,  to  record  the  services  of  its  members  participating  in  the 
Quebec  campaign. 

Retrace  to  Cony  St.;  R.  on  Cony  St.;  L.  from  Cony  St.  on  Willow  St. 

3.  The  Kennebec  Journal  Offices,  20  Willow  St.   The  Journal,  Augusta's 
daily  paper,  is  one  of  the  few  newspapers  in  the  country  with  more  than 
one  hundred  years  of  continuous  publication  to  its  credit.    It  has  been 
claimed  that  the  Journal  was  the  first  of  the  American  press  to  advocate 
Abraham  Lincoln  for  the  Presidency.    James  G.  Elaine,  Maine's  only 
Presidential  candidate,  was  closely  associated  with  the  paper,  having 
been  its  editor  prior  to  his  active  participation  in  politics. 

Retrace  to  Cony  St.;  L.  on  Cony  St.;  R.  from  Cony  St.  on  Arsenal  St. 

4.  Augusta  Lumber  Company  Mill  (open),  108  Arsenal  St.,  is  one  of  the 
remaining  few  of  the  160  sawmills  once  situated  on  the  Kennebec  River. 
The  mill,  established  in  1861,  employs  about  100  men  in  addition  to  300 
to  500  in  the  woods  during  the  logging  season. 

5.  The  State  Hospital,  end  of  Arsenal  St.,  established  in  1896  as  the 
Maine  Insane  Hospital,  occupies  the  buildings  of  a  former  National 
Arsenal.    In  1828,  work  was  begun  on  the  arsenal's  main  building  'for 
the  safekeeping  of  arms  and  munitions  of  the  United  States  for  the  north- 
ern and  eastern  frontier.'   Later  15  buildings  were  erected,  eight  from 
blocks  of  undressed  granite.   The  4o-acre  lot  was  enclosed  by  an  8-foot 
fence  set  in  a  granite  foundation,  and  a  heavy  granite  wall  and  wharf 
were  built  on  the  river  bank.  The  arsenal  proper,  a  three-story  building, 
100  feet  by  30  feet,  had  storage  space  for  several  thousand  boxes  of 
muskets  and  barrels  of  powder.   Ammunition  was  prepared  here  during 
the  Mexican  War,  and,  during  the  Civil  War,  the  arsenal  buildings  were 
closely  guarded  against  burning  by  rebel  agents.    From  the  Civil  War 
until  the  close  of  the  century,  when  the  supply  of  powder  ran  out  and  no 
further  appropriations  were  made,  sunrise  and  sunset  salutes  were  fired 
from  the  arsenal.   Among  the  commanders  stationed  here  were  General 
O.  O.  Howard  and  Lieutenant  Anderson,  hero  of  Fort  Sumter.     The 
State  Hospital  acquired  the  use  of  the  buildings  in  1897,  and  the  Govern- 
ment later  deeded  the  property  to  the  State.  Besides  the  hospital  build- 
ings, there  is  a  4oo-acre  farm  connected  with  the  institution.  Three  hun- 
dred employees  care  for  and  supervise  approximately  1500  patients. 

Retrace  to  Cony  St.;  R.  on  Cony  St. 

6.  The  Reuel  Williams  House  (open  by  permission  of  owner},  SW.  cor. 
Stone  and  Cony  Sts.,  was  erected  during  the  first  decade  of  the  i9th 
century.  It  is  a  dignified  building  of  the  early  Federal  type,  architecturally 
plain  except  for  its  fine  doorways  and  Palladian  windows.   Noteworthy 
among  the  13  large  rooms  is  the  Octagon  Room,  bearing  its  original  wall- 
paper depicting  scenes  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  which  was  hand-painted 
in  Paris  in  1806.   The  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art  in  New  York  has 


Augusta  123 


several  panels  of  these  scenes,  as  has  a  Philadelphia  museum,  but  the 
Williams  House  contains  the  entire  series  in  perfect  condition.  The  paper, 
as  well  as  a  carpet  that  was  hand- woven  in  Paris,  was  purchased  in  France 
by  James  Bowdoin,  patron  of  Bowdoin  College,  and  presented  to  Mr. 
Williams.  The  house  contains  many  pieces  of  antique  furniture,  portraits, 
and  a  bust  of  Reuel  Williams  by  Paul  Akers.  Williams  (1783-1862)  was 
one  of  Augusta's  leading  citizens  and  a  prominent  figure  in  State  affairs. 
In  1847,  President  Polk  and  James  Buchanan,  then  Secretary  of  State, 
were  his  guests  while  visiting  Augusta. 

7.  Cony  High  School,  SE.  cor.  Stone  and  Cony  Sts.,  had  its  origin  in  the 
Cony  Female  Academy,  founded  in  1818  to  provide  'instruction  gratis 
to  ...  a  number  of  orphans  or  other  females  under  16  years  of  age.'  The 
present  wedge-shaped  high-school  building  was  dedicated  in  1930  and  is 
thoroughly  modern  in  equipment  and  curricula;  about  850  students  are 
enrolled. 

Retrace  Cony  St.  to  Kennebec  Bridge. 

8.  Cushnoc,  a  small  island  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  north  of  the  bridge, 
is  visible  only  at  low  water.  Navigation  past  Old  Coon,  as  the  early  settlers 
called  it,  was  difficult  and  dangerous,  and  many  boats  were  sunk  attempt- 
ing the  passage.  About  1820  an  effort  was  made  to  drag  the  island  from  its 
bed.  One  hundred  yoke  of  oxen  were  procured,  mill  chains  were  fastened 
around  the  island  and  linked  with  the  team,  and  the  oxen  headed  up- 
stream along  the  river  bank.    The  first  terrific  pull  succeeded  only  in 
throwing  the  hindmost  yoke  of  oxen  into  the  river.  Subsequent  attempts 
throughout  the  day  effected  no  more  than  broken  chains  and  crescendos 
of  curses  that  rivaled  the  combined  ox-power  in  volume.   The  island  is 
still  there. 

9.  Kennebec  Dam,  just  north  of  the  bridge,  was  first  built  in  1837.   The 
structure,  which  was  partially  destroyed  four  times,  was  entirely  rebuilt 
in  1870.  The  drainage  waters  from  an  area  of  more  than  5000  square  miles 
pour  over  the  22-foot  face  of  the  dam,  supplying  the  city  with  7150  horse- 
power. 


AUGUSTA.  POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  Fort  Western  n.  Hazzard  Shoe  Company 

2.  Boulder  and  Tablet  12.  Macomber  Playground 

3.  Kennebec  Journal  13.  Blaine  House 

4.  Augusta  Lumber  Company  14.  State  House 

5.  State  Hospital  15.  State  Park 

6.  Reuel  Williams  House  16.  Jacataqua  Oak 

7.  Cony  High  School  17.  Kennebec  County  Jail 

8.  Cushnoc  18.  Lithgow  Library 

9.  Kennebec  Dam  19.  South  Congregational  Church 
10.  Edwards    Manufacturing    Com-    20.  Camp  Keyes 

pany  21.  Ganeston  Park 


126  Seaports  and  River  Towns 


TOUR  2  —  5.5  m. 


W.  from  Kennebec  Bridge  on  Bridge  St.;  R.  from  Bridge  St.  on  Water  St. 

10.  Edwards  Manufacturing  Company  Mill  (visitors'  permits  at  office},  cor. 
Canal  and  Water  Sts.,  is  Augusta's  largest  industry.  Established  in  1845 
by  the  Kennebec  Lock  and  Canal  Company,  it  was  rated  (1934)  the 
sixth  largest  cotton  mill  in  Maine.   The  company  employs  about  1200 
workers  and  produces  cotton  cloth  used  chiefly  in  New  England  and  the 
Midwest.  The  plant  is  modern  and  has  attractive  grounds  kept  in  excel- 
lent condition.  Bxhibits  from  the  mills  are  shown  annually  at  the  Eastern 
States'  Exposition,  Springfield,  Massachusetts. 

Retrace  Water  St.  to  junction  of  Water,  Gage,  Grove,  and  Green  Streets; 
left  on  Gage  St. 

11.  R.  P.  Hazzard  Shoe  Company's  Factory  (open),  61   Gage  St.,  where 
approximately  575  skilled  workers  are  employed  in  the  manufacture  of 
shoes,  represents  an  industry  which  has  attained  a  prominent  industrial 
position  in  Augusta  as  well  as  in  neighboring  districts  during  the  last  few 
decades.   Production  at  the  Hazzard  plant  is  about  4500  pairs  of  shoes 
daily. 

R.  from  Gage  St.  on  Child  St. 

12.  Macomber  Playground  (R),  Child  St.  between  Valley  and  Center  Sts., 
is  a  children's  playground  maintained  by  the  city.   The  idea  of  a  'chil- 
dren's court,'  wherein  the  children  act  as  policemen,  lawyers,  and  jury, 
was  instituted  here  in  1930.   The  plan  was  at  once  successful,  and  it  has 
been  adopted  by  playgrounds  throughout  the  country. 

L.  from  Child  St.  on  State  St. 

13.  The  Blaine  House,  or  Executive  Mansion  (open  weekdays,  except  Sat., 
2-4),  NW.  cor.  Capitol  and  State  Sts.,  is  a  spacious  two-story  residence 
of  Classic  Revival  design,  surrounded  by  landscaped  grounds.    Built 
shortly  after  1830,  the  building  was  purchased  by  James  G.  Blaine,  'the 
plumed  knight'  of  State  and  national  politics,  in  1862.    This  was  the 
Augusta  home  of  Elaine's  family  during  his  political  career,  and  was  the 
scene  of  numerous  social  and  political  gatherings.  Here  Blaine  received 
news  of  his  nomination  for  the  Presidency,  and  of  his  '  rum,  Romanism, 
and  rebellion'  defeat  in  1876.    Three  of  his  children  and  three  grand- 
children were  born  here.    In  1919,  his  daughter,  Mrs.  Harriet  Blaine 
Beale,  presented  the  house  to  the  State  as  a  memorial  to  her  son,  killed 
during  the  St.  Mihiel  drive  in  September,  1918;  it  was  to  be  used  as  the 
official  residence  of  the  chief  executive. 

Remodeled  under  the  direction  of  the  architect,  John  Calvin  Stevens, 
the  old  house  retains  its  original  design.  The  study  is  preserved  as  it  was 
in  Elaine's  time.  The  silver  service  in  the  State  dining-room  was  recov- 
ered from  the  cruiser  'Maine'  ten  years  after  its  sinking  in  Havana 
Harbor. 


Augusta  127 


14.  The  State  House  (open  daily  8-5),  SW.  cor.  State  and  Capitol  Sts., 
provides  offices  for  various  State  departments,  the  executive  chambers, 
the  House  of  Representatives  and  Senate  chambers,  the  Maine  State 
Library,  and  the  State  Museum.   Built  of  Hallowell  granite,  the  central 
section  of  the  building  embodies  the  strong  architectural  characteristics 
of  its  designer,  Charles  Bulfinch,  and  somewhat  resembles  another  work 
of  his,  the  Massachusetts  State  House.   Rising  upon  a  knoll  above  the 
surrounding  city,  the  four-storied  building  has  a  3oo-foot  front  with 
colonnaded  portico  in  the  center  portion,  and  two  75-foot  wings  facing 
east.    The  cornerstone  was  laid  in  1829,  and  the  original  structure  com- 
pleted three  years  later.   In  1911,  it  was  enlarged  according  to  designs  by 
G.  Henri  Desmond,  necessitating  the  demolition  of  almost  all  the  old 
building  save  the  front  and  rear  walls.    At  this  time  the  grounds  were 
graded,  additions  made  to  the  wings,  and  a  dome  added,  surmounted  by 
a  statue,  representing  Augusta,  the  city,  designed  by  W.  Clark  Noble  of 
Gardiner,  and  made  of  copper  plated  with  gold. 

A  Museum  on  the  first  floor  contains  specimens  of  animals,  birds,  military 
relics,  an  aquarium,  and  scores  of  historic  curios.  The  Hall  of  Flags  on 
the  second  floor  houses  Maine's  battle  flags.  The  Maine  State  Library  on 
the  second  floor  has  over  200,000  volumes  of  general  reference,  literature 
(but  no  contemporary  fiction),  legislative  reference,  genealogy,  docu- 
ments, a  legal  library  of  60,000  books,  and  volumes  about  Maine  and  an 
ever-increasing  collection  of  the  works  of  Maine  authors.  Scattered 
about  the  building  are  many  portraits  of  Maine  governors  and  other 
eminent  personages. 

15.  State  Park,  a  2o-acre  tract  between  Capitol  and  Union  Sts.,  stretching 
from  State  St.  before  the  capitol  to  the  banks  of  the  river,  offers  pleasant 
vistas  and  walks  over  more  than  a  mile  of  paths.  Thousands  of  trees  and 
shrubs,  rustic  seats  and  benches,  an  artificial  pond,  and  other  landscaping 
effects  make  the  park  one  of  the  most  attractive  spots  in  Augusta.  There 
is  also  an  arboretum,  and  the  park  presents  one  of  the  few  places  in  the 
State  where  students  in  dendrology  or  horticulture  can  find  a  large  variety 
of  plants  for  study  purposes.    Landscape  architects  and  the  Forestry 
Department  are  using  the  park  to  determine  what  plants  will  thrive  in 
this  locality.  Historically  the  park  is  of  interest  because  of  its  Civil  War 
associations.  Maine  regiments  were  encamped  here  during  the  war,  and 
for  at  least  two  winters  the  soldiers  weathered  the  rigors  of  the  climate 
before  setting  out  into  the  heat  of  southern  campaigns,  some  even  in 
Texas.  At  the  end  of  a  long  lane  of  trees  is  a  marble  shaft  marking  the 
grave  of  Enoch  Lincoln,  Maine's  sixth  Governor.  During  his  administra- 
tion the  capital  was  removed  from  Portland  to  Augusta  and  work  begun 
on  the  new  building.  Lincoln's  2ooo-line  poem,  'The  Village,'  having  its 
setting  in  Fryeburg  and  written  while  he  was  a  lawyer  there,  was  the  first 
book  of  poetry  published  in  Maine. 

Retrace  State  St.  to  Green  St.;  L.  on  Green  St. 

1 6.  The  Jacataqua  Oak,  an  immense  old  tree  standing  at  81  Green  St., 
is  associated  with  one  of  the  most  romantic  of  the  legends  of  the  Kennebec. 


128  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

Jacataqua,  an  Indian  princess,  who  had  been  taken  from  her  Abnaki 
tribal  home  on  Swan  Island,  was  being  held  at  Fort  Western  when  the 
Arnold  expedition  arrived  there  in  1775.  Of  mixed  French  and  Indian 
blood,  the  girl  had  been  educated  at  a  convent  in  Quebec  and  was  un- 
usually intelligent  and  attractive.  Aaron  Burr,  later  Vice-President  of 
the  United  States,  but  at  that  time  only  a  youth  of  19  accompanying  the 
expedition,  became  enamored  of  Jacataqua,  and  the  Jacataqua  Oak  is 
supposed  to  have  been  the  scene  of  their  love-making.  Burr  and  the 
princess  are  accredited  with  having  killed  the  bear  which  was  the  main 
course  of  the  feast  at  the  fort  prior  to  the  departure  of  the  expedition. 
The  story  of  Jacataqua  is  told  by  Kenneth  Roberts  in  the  historical 
novel,  'Arundel.' 

Retrace  Green  St.  to  State  St.;  L.  on  State  St. 

17.  Kennebec  County  Jail,  SE.  cor.  State  and  Court  Sts.,  was  the  scene 
of  a  lurid  event  in  Augusta's  history.  Joseph  Sager  of  Gardiner,  accused 
and  convicted  of  having  poisoned  his  wife,  was  condemned  to  be  hanged 
in  January,  1835.  A  gallows  was  erected  at  the  southwest  corner  of  the 
jail,  and  Sager  was  brought  to  the  scaffold  still  protesting  his  innocence, 
while  the  minister  in  attendance  read  a  manuscript  '  partly  by  narrative 
and  partly  by  exhortation'  that  the  murderer  had  prepared.    Between 
8000  and  12,000  persons  attended  the  execution,  there  was  much  jeering 
and  throwing  of  stones,  and  '  liquor  flowed  freely  and  was  disposed  of  by 
the  barrel.'  The  trap  that  was  sprung  under  Sager  and  a  whipping-post 
used  in  earlier  days  are  in  the  basement  of  the  courthouse  near-by. 

1 8.  Lithgow  Library  and  Reading  Room  (open  weekdays  10-9),  NW.  cor. 
Winthrop  and  State  Sts.,  is  a  solidly  designed  structure  of  Maine  granite, 
architecturally  of  the  Romanesque-Renaissance  order,  built  in  1895 
after  designs  by  Joseph  Neal  and  Alfred  Hopkins.  The  library  occupies 
the  site  of  one  of  Augusta's  early  hotels,  the  Cushnoc  House.  In  its  book 
room  six  stained-glass  transom  windows,  designed  by  Charles  Willoughby 
of  Augusta,  later  a  curator  at  the  Peabody  Museum  of  Archeology  and 
Ethnology,  Cambridge,  treat  historic  subjects  important  in  the  annals  of 
the  city.    In  addition  to  nearly  18,000  volumes,  the  library  houses  the 
collection  of  the  Kennebec  Natural  History  and  Antiquarian  Society, 
an  organization  now  inactive.    The  collection,   unclassified  and  un- 
catalogued,  contains  scores  of  items  pertinent  to  Augusta  and  New 
England  history. 

19.  South  Congregational  Church,  62  State  St.,  is  the  oldest  of  Augusta's 
ii  churches,  although  the  present  structure,  built  of  granite  in  Gothic 
design,  was  not  erected  until  1866.   The  parish  dates  to  1771,  the  first 
building  being  completed  in  Market  Square  1 1  years  later.  In  1836  Roman 
Catholics  established  a  church  on  the  east  side.   Their  present  church, 
St.  Mary's,  on  Western  Avenue,  was  built  in  1927;  a  stately  granite 
structure  of  a  modified  Norman-Gothic  design,  it  is  considered  the  most 
beautiful  of  Augusta's  churches.  The  growth  of  the  French  population, 
with  increased  lumbering  and  mill  employment,  assumed  such  propor- 
tions that  a  second  Catholic  church  was  necessary.   St.  Augustine's, 


Bangor  129 

corner  of  Washington  St.  and  Northern  Ave.,  erected  in  1915,  is  an  im- 
pressive structure  dominating  the  northern  section  of  the  city  and  plainly 
visible  from  the  South  Congregational  Church. 

Retrace  State  St.  to  Winthrop  St.;  R.  on  Winthrop  St. 

20.  Camp  Keyes  is  at  the  summit  of  Winthrop  St.,  on  a  flat,  almost  tree- 
less, plateau  nearly  a  square  mile  in  area.   The  43d  Division  of  the  Na- 
tional Guard  meets  here  every  fifth  year  for  its  encampment  and  muster. 
Here  are  the  local  military  headquarters  and  the  training  school  for 
recruits  to  the  Maine  State  police  force.  Up  the  eastern  slope  of  the  hill 
and  extending  onto  the  plateau  are  several  of  the  city's  cemeteries,  while 
the  four  runways  and  the  hangar  of  the  Augusta  airport  are  adjacent  to 
the  infantry  barracks  and  other  buildings.    A  revolving  beacon  sweeps 
the  sky  nightly.  Some  of  the  best  views  of  the  city  and  valley,  as  well  as  of 
the  surrounding  country,  can  be  had  from  this  hilltop. 

S.  through  Camp  Keyes  Drive  to  Western  Ave.;  L.  on  Western  Ave. 

21.  Ganeston  Park  (open:  no  motoring),  rear  of  the  W.  H.  Gannett  resi- 
dence, 114  Western  Ave.,  is  the  largest  of  Augusta's  several  parks.    It 
was  created  several  years  ago  when  William  Howard  Gannett  set  aside 
475  acres  of  wooded  land  for  the  use  of  the  public.    There  are  oppor- 
tunities here  for  hiking,  horseback  riding,  picnicking,  and  winter  sports. 
Ganeston  Park  was  made  a  State  Game  Preserve  and  Bird  Sanctuary  by 
the  legislature  in  1930. 

Points  of  Interest  in  Environs: 

Veterans'  Administration  Facility,  Togus,  4.6  m.  (see  Tour  17); 
Lake  Cobbosseecontee,  6.8  m.  (see  Tour  13);  Belgrade  Lakes,  18.1  m. 
(see  Tour  12). 


BANGOR 


City:  Alt.  100,  pop.  28,749,  sett.  1769,  incorp.  town  1791,  city  1834. 

Railroad  Station:  Union  Station,  Exchange  and  Washington  Sts.,  for  M.C.  and 
B.  &  A.  R.R.S. 

Bus  Stations:  Union  Station,  for  M.C.  Transportation  Co.,  Bangor  House, 

174  Main  St.,  for  Grey  Line  and  Quaker  Stages. 

Airport:  Bangor  Airport,  3  m.  NW.  on  Cooper  Rd.,  for  B.  &  M.  Airways. 

Accommodations:  Three  hotels. 

Fishing:  Bangor  Salmon  Pool,  May  -  June. 

Swimming:  Bull's  Eye  Pool,  1.5  m.  north  on  Valley  Ave.,  Pushaw  Pond,  4  m. 
\iorth  on  Essex  St. 


130  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

BANGOR,  the  third  largest  city  in  Maine  and  the  county  seat  of  Penob- 
scot  County,  sprawls  upon  the  hills  along  the  west  bank  of  the  Penobscot 
River.  Twenty-three  miles  from  deep-sea  anchorage  and  at  the  head  of 
tidewater,  the  city  faces  in  another  direction  the  hundreds  of  miles  of 
historic  and  playground  areas  that  lie  to  the  south  along  Penobscot  Bay 
and  eastward.  Kenduskeag  Stream  enters  the  city  from  a  northerly  direc- 
tion, running  through  the  central  and  business  districts  from  which  other 
hills  rise  sharply  to  residential  Bangor. 

Were  it  not  for  its  advantageous  geographical  position,  Bangor  might  well 
be  a  city  of  ghosts:  the  ghosts  of  hordes  of  lusty  caulk-booted  river- 
drivers,  of  merchants,  mariners,  and  mill  hands  of  a  dozen  nationalities, 
who  once  swarmed  about  the  present  vital  city.  The  lumber  industry, 
largely  responsible  for  Bangor's  growth,  is  now  restricted  to  pulp-wood 
operations  at  Brewer  across  the  river,  while  the  days  when  scores  of  ves- 
sels filled  the  Penobscot  at  Bangor  are  long  departed.  Today,  the  city  is 
predominantly  commercial.  In  addition,  it  is  a  focal  point  for  thousands 
of  tourists  who  pour  through  the  city  each  year  over  highways  which  were 
once  well-beaten  Indian  trails  along  the  Penobscot. 

The  first  authentic  record  of  the  site  of  present-day  Bangor  occurs  in 
Samuel  de  Champlain's  journals.  Champlain,  cruising  out  of  St.  Croix 
in  September,  1604,  piloted  his  sixteen- ton  vessel  up  the  Penobscot  until, 
as  he  writes,  '  we  came  to  a  little  river  [the  Kenduskeag]  in  the  vicinity  of 
which  we  had  to  anchor.  [We]  could  not  have  proceeded  more  than  half 
a  league  on  account  of  waterfall  [Treats  Falls]  which  descends  a  slope  of 
some  seven  to  eight  feet.'  The  explorer  landed  'to  see  the  country,'  went 
hunting,  and  found  the  locality  'most  pleasant  and  agreeable.'  He  was 
much  impressed  by  the  oaks  which  originally  covered  the  site  of  Bangor, 
and  from  which  the  present  Oak  and  Grove  Streets  derive  their  names. 
The  place  was  an  important  Indian  rendezvous,  and  Champlain  conferred 
here  with  the  Etchimin  Indian  chief,  Bessabez.  Champlain's  tactful  and 
courteous  conduct  at  this  time  was  largely  responsible  for  the  amicable 
French-Indian  relationships  which  lasted  as  long  as  the  French  had  con- 
trol of  Acadia. 

Bangor's  early  history,  begun  by  the  settlement  of  Jacob  Buswell  of  Salis- 
bury, Massachusetts,  in  1769,  was  the  usual  one  of  a  slowly  growing  pio- 
neer community  whose  chief  revenues  were  derived  from  the  exportation 
of  fish,  furs,  and  lumber.  The  settlement  was  known  as  Kenduskeag 
Plantation  until  1787,  and  as  Sunbury  from  1787  to  1791.  In  1779,  the 
Revolutionary  expedition  against  Castine  under  the  command  of  Commo- 
dore Richard  Saltonstall  and  General  Solomon  Lovell  was  routed  by  a 
British  fleet  commanded  by  Sir  George  Collier.  Retreating  to  Kenduskeag 
Plantation,  the  Americans  destroyed  their  own  fleet  of  nine  ships  and  fled 
westward  through  the  forest.  With  them  went  the  settlers,  except  those 
who  were  unable  to  leave  and  who  later  were  obliged  to  take  an  oath  of 
allegiance  to  the  British  Crown.  Twelve  years  later,  the  community  had 
recovered  sufficiently  to  petition  for  incorporation.  The  Reverend  Seth 
Noble,  Bangor's  first  installed  pastor,  was  sent  to  Boston  to  obtain  the 


Bangor  131 

incorporation  from  the  General  Court.  It  is  said  that,  while  the  clergy- 
man was  attending  to  the  town's  registration,  he  was  humming  the  old 
hymn  tune  known  as  '  Bangor.'  When  the  clerk,  filling  out  the  necessary 
papers,  asked  Noble  the  name  of  the  community,  the  pastor  misunder- 
stood the  question  and  replied  with  the  name  of  the  hymn,  and  thus  the 
latter  name  was  written  into  the  incorporation  papers. 

By  the  turn  of  the  century,  Bangor  was  beginning  to  enjoy  a  brisk  export 
trade  in  lumber.  But  embargoes,  and  the  War  of  1812,  with  British  ships 
lying  off-shore  and  threatening  the  very  life  of  the  Penobscot  Bay  settle- 
ments, made  financial  gain  possible  only  by  privateering  or  the  running  of 
contraband.  In  September,  1814,  a  British  fleet  and  army  descended 
upon  the  defenseless  town  and  forced  its  unconditional  surrender.  Con- 
siderable plundering  and  pillaging  followed  notwithstanding  the  town's 
petition  that  life  and  property  be  spared  and  the  giving  of  a  bond  to  as- 
sure the  delivery  of  certain  vessels,  then  under  construction,  to  the  British 
at  Castine.  Four  years  later,  the  most  important  news  on  the  first  day  of 
the  year  was  an  announcement  in  The  Eastern  Argus  that  'Mr.  Holmes 
had  a  new  suit  of  clothes  before  he  went  to  Congress.' 

Between  1830  and  1834,  the  early  boom  in  lumber  and  allied  industries 
resulted  in  an  increase  in  Bangor 's  population  from  2808  to  8000.  The 
forests  were  cut  back  and  away  from  the  Penobscot,  up  the  river  to  the 
East  Branch  and  West  Branch  —  that  great  woods  country  which  pro- 
duced men  and  legends  as  integrally  a  part  of  Maine  as  its  pine  trees. 
Bangor's  rise  to 'eminence  coincided  with  the  'pine  period'  between  1820 
and  1860,  when  real  lumbermen  rather  scorned  the  lowly  spruce.  After 
the  Civil  War,  as  the  supply  of  pine  became  depleted,  spruce  began  to 
come  into  its  own  as  a  forest  product,  until  today  the  cut  of  spruce  con- 
siderably exceeds  that  of  the  other  species.  Millions  of  logs  were  tumbled 
down  the  Penobscot  to  be  converted  into  lumber,  clapboards,  laths, 
shingles,  and  staves  in  the  Bangor  mills.  In  the  i85o's,  Bangor  was  prob- 
ably the  leading  lumber  port  of  the  world,  while  in  the  sixties  and  seven- 
ties it  was  second  only  to  Chicago  in  the  extent  of  its  lumber  shipments. 
In  the  peak  year  of  1872,  nearly  250,000,000  board  feet,  valued  at  $3,233,- 
958.53,  were  handled  here. 

For  approximately  fifty  years  in  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century,  a 
section  of  the  city  which  compared  with  San  Francisco's  Barbary  Coast  in 
its  palmy  days  flourished  in  the  vicinity  of  Washington,  Hancock,  and 
Exchange  Streets.  This  part  of  Bangor  was  known  as  the  'Devil's  Half- 
Acre.'  Here  were  the  taverns  and  grogshops,  the  lodging-houses  and 
brothels,  which  catered  to  the  teeming  life  of  the  busy  seaport.  In  the 
spring,  when  hundreds  of  lumbermen  and  rivermen  thronged  into  Bangor 
fresh  from  the  log-drives  with  a  winter's  wages  and  the  accumulation  of  a 
winter's  thirsts  and  hungers,  the  population  of  the  Half-Acre  swelled. 
After  months  of  hard  and  dangerous  labor,  the  men  of  the  North  Woods 
were  ready  for  relaxation;  and  there  was  nothing  half-hearted  in  the  way 
they  went  about  it.  Today,  there  is  no  trace  of  this  riotous  quarter,  where 
salt-water  shellbacks  and  tall-timber-men  swapped  tales,  drinks,  and  blows. 


132  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

The  pulse  of  Bangor  quickened  during  the  exciting  days  of  1834-36 
when  land  speculation  was  at  its  height  in  Maine.  Land  which  sold  for 
only  a  few  cents  an  acre  in  the  morning  might  command  a  price  of  as 
many  dollars  in  the  afternoon;  townships  and  lots  were  sold  over  and 
over  again  'sight  unseen.'  Brokers'  offices  were  established  in  Bangor,  a 
courier  line  was  set  up  to  Boston,  and  the  city  overflowed  with  specu- 
lators, gamblers,  and  the  human  flotsam  and  jetsam  which  is  always  at- 
tracted by  the  prospect  of  'easy  money.'  One  company,  after  advertising 
extensively  in  New  England  and  New  York  papers,  held  a  land  auction 
at  which  'champagne  from  the  original  bottles  [was  poured]  into  huge 
wash  tubs  from  which  each  man  helped  himself  at  his  own  sweet  will.' 
The  Baltimore  Niks'  Register  of  June,  1835,  contained  this  item:  'It  is 
rumored  that  one  evening  last  week,  two  paupers  escaped  from  the  Bangor 
almshouse,  and  though  they  were  caught  early  the  next  morning,  yet  in 
the  meantime,  before  they  were  secured,  they  had  made  $1800  each  by 
speculating  in  timber  lands.'  The  bubble  burst  when  people  stopped  long 
enough  to  look  at  the  lands  they  had  purchased;  and  the  web  of  dishonest 
surveyors'  reports,  deception,  and  swindling  fell  to  pieces. 

Essential  to  the  lumber  industry  were  the  ships,  many  of  them  Bangor- 
built  and  Bangor-owned,  which  sailed  with  pine  boards  and  brought  back 
molasses,  sugar,  and  rum  from  the  West  Indies.  From  April  until  late 
November,  the  harbor  was  crowded  with  vessels  of  all  rigs  and  sizes,  rang- 
ing from  bay  coasters  to  full-rigged  ships.  Records  show  that  as  many  as 
seven  hundred  vessels  of  from  four  hundred  to  four  thousand  tons  have 
been  anchored  in  the  harbor  at  one  time.  A  brisk  trade  was  developed 
with  the  United  Kingdom  and  the  Continent,  while  many  coasters  carried 
cargoes  to  all  ports  along  the  western  Atlantic  seaboard.  The  harvesting 
and  shipping  of  Penobscot  River  ice  in  the  vicinity  of  Bangor  flourished 
between  1840  and  1890. 

Beginning  with  the  construction  of  the  'Red  Bridge'  in  1791,  scores  of 
vessels  were  launched  at  Bangor,  to  carry  that  name  all  over  the  globe. 
The  '  Thinks-I-to-Myself '  was  one  of  the  Bangor  vessels  captured  by  the 
British  during  the  War  of  1812;  it  was  later  reported  as  a  privateer  under 
British  colors.  The  'Gold  Hunter,'  Bangor-built,  was  the  first  to  carry  a 
band  of  adventurers  around  the  Horn  to  California  in  the  gold  rush  of  '49. 
The  age  of  steam  navigation  was  inaugurated  at  Bangor  with  the  arrival 
of  the  steamboat  'Bangor'  from  Boston,  in  May,  1824.  This  wooden  side- 
wheeler  was  later  engaged  in  conveying  pilgrims  from  Alexandria,  Egypt, 
to  Mecca  —  but  not  until  its  white  coat  had  been  painted  black  to  satisfy 
the  Mohammedans,  who  refused  to  embark  on  a  vessel  that  flaunted  their 
mourning  color.  Still  later,  the  'Bangor'  was  used  as  a  royal  yacht  by  the 
Sultan  of  Turkey.  Another  ship  of  the  same  name,  one  of  the  first  Ameri- 
can steamboats  with  an  iron  propeller,  was  built  in  1845  to  run  between 
Bangor  and  Boston. 

Many  of  Bangor's  twenty-eight  churches  are  architecturally  important, 
and  a  survey  made  in  1935  revealed  some  eighty  residences  dating  from 
more  than  a  century  ago.  Charles  Bulfinch,  distinguished  Boston  archi- 


Bangor  133 

tect  who  assisted  in  designing  the  National  Capitol,  surveyed  a  hundred- 
acre  lot  in  Bangor  about  1830  and  laid  out  the  streets  lying  south  of  State 
Street.  Some  of  the  older  streets,  particularly  Broadway,  Essex,  Ham- 
mond, Ohio,  and  State,  contain  many  fine  old  houses  of  Federal  design. 
These  were  built  mainly  by  the  early  gentry,  prominent  landowners  and 
merchants.  In  addition,  there  are  many  later  homes  of  varied  design, 
stately  structures  built  by  *  lumber  barons '  of  the  city's  boom  days,  from 
1840  to  1880.  Growth  and  civic  improvement  have  gone  on  undeterred 
by  several  public  disasters,  such  as  the  $3,000,000  fire  which  swept 
through  the  business  district  in  1911. 

Henry  D.  Thoreau,  describing  Bangor  as  it  was  in  1846,  wrote:  'There 
stands  the  city  of  Bangor,  fifty  miles  up  the  Penobscot,  at  the  head  of 
navigation  for  vessels  of  the  larger  class,  the  principal  lumber  depot  on 
this  continent,  with  a  population  of  twelve  thousand,  like  a  star  on  the 
edge  of  the  night,  still  hewing  at  the  forest  of  which  it  is  built,  already 
overflowing  with  the  luxuries  and  refinements  of  Europe,  and  sending  its 
vessels  to  Spain,  to  England,  and  to  the  West  Indies  for  its  groceries  — 
and  yet  only  a  few  axe-men  have  gone  "up-river,"  into  the  howling 
wilderness  which  feeds  it.' 

From  its  nineteenth-century  background  of  '  luxuries  and  refinements ' 
in  the  heyday  of  Maine  lumbering,  Bangor,  unlike  many  towns  with  a 
similar  background,  has  forged  ahead  to  become  one  of  the  State's  most 
important  cities. 


TOUR  — 1.8  m. 


N.  from  Hammond  St.  on  Central  St. 

Norumbega  Parkway,  crossing  Kenduskeag  Stream  to  Central  St.,  is  of 
historic  interest  because  of  the  associations  of  its  name  with  Bangor. 
' Norumbega,'  the  old  Spanish  word  meaning  'the  country  of  the  Nor- 
wegians, or  Northmen '  (also  interpreted  as  Penobscot  Indian,  signifying 
' still- water-between-f alls'),  was  once  applied  to  Penobscot  Bay  and 
vicinity.  Norumbega  Parkway,  a  garden  spot  in  the  midst  of  the  city, 
was  developed  in  1933,  financed  by  a  bequest  from  Luther  M.  Peirce. 
The  park's  high,  vine-covered  walls  overlook  pleasant,  landscaped  walks. 


BANGOR.  POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  Old  City  Hall  8.  Peirce  Memorial 

2.  Joseph  Garland  House  9.  Bangor  Historical  Society  and  Pub., 

3.  Bangor  Theological  Seminary  lie  Library 

4.  Hannibal  Hamlin  House  10.  Samuel  Veazie  House 

5.  Symphony  House  n.  Boutelle  House 

6.  Bangor  House  12.  Grotto  Cascade  Park 

7.  Memorial  and  Davenport  Park  13.  Bangor  Salmon  Pool 


BANGOR 


SCALE    OF    YARDS 


-1937- 


136  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

Kenduskeag  Mall,  a  continuation  of  the  parkway,  lies  between  Central 
and  State  Sts.  The  name  '  Kenduskeag '  (also  '  Condeskeag '  and  '  Kades- 
quit')  signified  'eel-catching  place,'  from  the  Indian  days  when  the  stream 
abounded  in  that  fish.  The  name  was  applied  to  Bangor  until  its  incor- 
poration in  1791.  A  bronze  plaque  and  a  boulder  commemorate  the  land- 
ing of  Samuel  de  Champlain,  who  is  believed  to  have  come  ashore  some- 
where near  this  spot  in  1604.  Near  the  boulder  are  two  cannon,  one  a 
relic  of  the  Spanish-American  War,  and  the  other  a  piece  recovered  from 
one  of  the  American  ships  sunk  off  Bangor  during  the  Saltonstall  retreat 
in  1779.  In  the  center  of  the  Mall  rises  a  well-executed  bronze  statue  of 
Hannibal  Hamlin,  Vice-President  under  Lincoln.  The  work  of  Charles  E. 
Tefft,  it  was  paid  for  by  public  contributions  and  unveiled  in  1927. 
Retrace  to  Hammond  St.;  R.  from  Hammond  St.  on  Court  St. 

1.  Old  City  Hall,  Court  St.,  was  one  of  the  buildings  occupied  by  the 
British  troops  during  their  invasion  in  1814.  Built  in  1812,  the  hall  was 
designed  for  religious  purposes  as  well  as  for  the  administration  of  town 
and  county  affairs.   The  town's  early  legal  proceedings  were  carried  on 
here.  The  old  building,  though,  missed  Bangor's  first  lawsuit  when  Jacob 
Buswell  in  1790  brought  suit  against  one  David  Wall,  '  Yoeman,'  for  call- 
ing him  'an  old  damned,  gray-headed  bugar  of  Hell,'  and  for  calling 
'the  Rev.  Seth  Noble  a  damned  rascall.' 

2.  The  Joseph  D.  Garland  House  (private),  117  Court  St.,  was  built  in 
1830  after  designs  accredited  to  Richard  Upjohn.  The  structure  bears  out 
the  better  features  of  the  traditional  Greek  Revival  architecture.  Built  of 
red  brick,  it  stands  on  high  ground  amid  giant  elms,  its  pillared  porticoes, 
front  and  rear,  commanding  prospects  up  and  down  the  Kenduskeag 
Valley. 

L.  from  Court  St.  on  Boynton  and  Hudson  Sts.;  L.  from  Hudson  St.  on 
Union  St. 

3.  The  Bangor  Theological  Seminary  (open),  NW.  corner  Union  and  Ham- 
mond Sts.,  the  oldest  institution  in  Bangor  and  the  only  one  of  its  kind  in 
Maine,  New  Hampshire,  and  Vermont,  was  incorporated  as  the  'Maine 
Charity  School'  in  1804.   In  the  rigorous  days  of  its  past,  when  the  stu- 
dents got  their  water  from  a  well  on  the  campus  and  used  stoves  and  oil 
lamps,  they  could  save  ten  cents  a  week  on  board  by  not  drinking  tea  or 
coffee. 

R.  from  Union  St.  on  Hammond  St.;  L.  from  Hammond  St.  on  Fifth  St. 

4.  The  Hannibal  Hamlin  House  (visitors  by  permission),  NE.  corner 
Fifth  St.,  is  associated  with  one  of  Maine's  most  distinguished  citizens. 
Hannibal  Hamlin  moved  from  his  native  town  of  Paris  Hill  to  Hampden 
where  he  resided  for  twenty  years,  building  an  extensive  law  practice. 
From  1862  to  1864,  he  was  Vice-President  of  the  United  States  under 
Lincoln,  served  as  United  States  Senator  from  1869  to  1881,  and  as  Minis- 
ter to  Spain  from  1881  to  1883.   While  Vice-President,  Hamlin  came  to 
Bangor  and  purchased  the  Fifth  Street  house  which  was  later  left  to  the 
Theological  Seminary  by  his  son. 


Bangor  137 

R.  from  Fifth  St.  on  Hammond  St.;  R.  on  Union  St. 

5.  Symphony  House  (private),  166  Union  St.,  combines  architectural  and 
historic  interest.   Presumably  designed  by  Richard  Upjohn,  it  was  built 
by  one  of  Bangor's  pioneer  lumbermen,  Isaac  Farrar,  in  1833-36.   Con- 
structed of  red  brick  brought  from  England,  it  is  architecturally  of 
modified  English  Renaissance  design.  The  slate  for  the  roof  was  imported 
from  Bangor,  Wales,  and  a  circular  room  is  finished  throughout  with  solid 
mahogany  brought  from  San  Domingo.    The  house  was  occupied  at 
various  times  by  Owen  Davis,  the  playwright,  and  Gene  Sawyer,  author 
of  the  'Nick  Carter'  series.   It  is  now  owned  by  the  Bangor  Symphony 
Orchestra. 

6.  Bangor  House,  SE.  corner  of  Main  and  Union  Sts.,  survives  from 
stagecoach,  schooner,  and  steamboat  days.   The  original  hotel,  retained 
in  the  present  building's  annex,  was  built  about  a  century  ago.  The  old< 
house  had  a  huge  kitchen  fireplace  where  meats  and  fowl  were  spitted 
over  the  open  blaze,  and  a  large  dance-hall  built  over  the  dining-room. 
Presidents  Grant,  Arthur,  Harrison,  and  Theodore  Roosevelt,  as  well  as 
Stephen  A.  Douglas  and  Daniel  Webster,  were  distinguished  guests. 
In  1882,  Oscar  Wilde,  on  his  American  tour,  made  his  only  stop  in  Maine 
at  the  Bangor  House,  en  route  to  New  Brunswick.   He  spoke  before  an 
audience  in  a  hall  appropriately  decorated  with  sunflowers,  and  was  con- 
siderably booed  and  hissed  by  the  vulgarly  curious.   It  is  recorded  that 
no  respectable  young  lady,  no  matter  what  her  claims  to  being  one  of  the 
intelligentsia,  was  permitted  to  attend  the  gathering. 

R.  from  Union  St.  on  Main  St. 

7.  'Remember  the  Maine!'  Memorial  is  in  Davenport  Park,  NW.  corner 
Main  and  Cedar  Sts.   A  granite,  wedge-shaped  monument,  surmounted 
by  a  bronze  shaft  bearing  an  American  eagle,  it  was  erected  by  the  city 
in  1922.   On  the  monument  are  the  original  shield  and  scroll  recovered 
from  the  battleship  'Maine,'  blown  up  in  Havana  Harbor  in  1898. 


OTHER  POINTS  OF  INTEREST 


8.  Peirce  Memorial,  Harlow  St.  opposite  Franklin  St.,  is  a  bronze  statue 
of  three  river-drivers,  equipped  with  peavies  and  cant-hooks,  breaking 
a  log-jam.   It  commemorates  Bangor's  lumber  industry.  The  memorial, 
the  work  of  Charles  E.  Tefft  of  Brewer,  was  presented  to  Bangor  by 
Luther  M.  Peirce. 

9.  Bangor  Historical  Society,  145  Harlow  St.,  has  its  rooms  in  the  Bangor 
Public  Library  (open  9-9,  weekdays),  one  of  the  largest  and  best  endowed 
of  the  State's  libraries.    The  society's  collection  of  historic  objects  in- 
cludes relics  of  the  Colonial  and  Revolutionary  periods,  the  Civil  War, 
Indians,  the  prehistoric  Red  Paint  People.  There  are  also  collections  of 
portraits,  prints,  and  paintings,  and  antique  furniture,  and  Chinese  and 
East  Indian  art  objects. 


138  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

10.  The  Samuel  Veazie  House,  NE.  corner  Broadway  and  York  St. 
(Jerrard  Apartment  House),  was  built  in  the  i83o's  by  one  of  Bangor's 
foremost  citizens  and  lumber  barons,  General  Samuel  Veazie  (1787- 
1869),  who  rose  from  the  rank  of  ensign  to  general  in  the  War  of  1812. 
He  moved  to  Bangor  in  1832,  and  about  1850  purchased  the  Bangor,  Old 
Town,  and  Milford  Railroad  (originally  the  Bangor  and  Piscataquis 
Canal  and  Railroad  Company),  one  of  the  first  railroads  in  New  England. 
At  the  time  of  his  death,  Veazie  owned  all  the  fifty- two  lumber  mills  be- 
tween Bangor  and  Old  Town. 

11.  The  Boutelle  House  (private),  157  Broadway,  was  built  in  1834  by 
the  Smith  Brothers,  constructors  of  the  Bangor,  Old  Town,  and  Milford 
Railroad.   The  design  is  attributed  to  Charles  Bulfinch.  The  four  Doric 
columns  of  the  front  support  an  entablature  consisting  of  an  ornamental 
architrave  frieze,  with  carved  wreaths  and  a  cornice.  An  attractive  balus- 
trade surrounds  the  porch  roof.   Doric  pilasters  form  the  framework  of 
the  recessed  doorway,  as  well  as  that  of  the  leaded  side-lights,  and  support 
a  carved  entablature  in  place  of  the  conventional  leaded-glass  fan.  Dur- 
ing stirring  political  campaigns  of  the  last  century,  distinguished  speakersr 
such  as  James  G.  Blaine,  William  McKinley,  Senators  Eugene  Hale,  and 
William  P.  Frye,  reviewed  torchlight  parades  from  the  balcony. 

12.  Grotto  Cascade  Park,  State  St.  at  Summit  Ave.,  is  the  newest  of 
Bangor's  city  parks.  An  artificial  45-foot  cascade  terminates  in  an  arti- 
ficial pool  and  fountain,  bordered  by  flowers  and  rocks.   Colored  lights, 
submerged  in  the  fountain,  combine  with  the  electrically  regulated  spray 
to  give  the  effects  of  sunset,  moonlight,  twilight,  and  other  color  illusions. 
The  park's  development  was  the  first  Government  work  relief  project  in 
the  city. 

13.  Bangor  Salmon  Pool,  right  from  State  St.  opposite  the  Bangor  Water- 
works, is  known  for  its  excellent  fishing  and  for  a  custom,  connected 
therewith,  of  presenting  the  season's  first  salmon  to  the  President  of 
the  United  States:  the  pool  is  the  only  one  of  its  kind  in  the  country 
within  a  city's  limits.   The  days  are  over  when  shad,  alewives,  salmon, 
and  sturgeon  were,  with  furs,  major  stocks  in  trade  for  the  early  settlers, 
yet  the  gamey  10  to  30  pound  Atlantic  sea  salmon  still  fight  their  way 
up  over  the  falls  each  May  and  June  to  spawn. 

Points  of  Interest  in  Environs: 

University  of  Maine,  Orono,  8  m.  (Tour  4) ;  Indian  Reservation,  Old 
Town,  13.2  m.  (Tour  4) ;  Dorothea  Dix  Memorial  Park,  Fort  Knox, 
Black  Mansion  (Tour  1,  sec.  c);  Acadia  National  Park,  Cadillac 
Mountain,  Mount  Desert,  Bar  Harbor  (Tour  2). 


BRUNSWICK 


Town:  Alt.  65,  pop.  7604,  sett.  1628,  incorp.  town  1738. 

Railroad  Station:  Maine  St.,  for  M.C.  R.R. 

Bus  Stations:  150  Maine  St..  for  M.C.  Transportation  Co.;  148  Maine  St.,  for 

Grey  Line  and  Quaker  Stages. 

Accommodations:  Three  hotels. 

Swimming:  Mere  Point,  Harpswell,  Gurnet,  Orr's  Island,  and  Bailey  Island. 

Annual  Events:  Bowdoin  College  for  intercollegiate  sports;  Maine  Open  Handi- 
cap Golf  Tournament,  April  19. 

BRUNSWICK  is  a  community  where  commerce,  industry,  and  educa- 
tion flourish  in  well-balanced  proportions.  Famous  as  the  seat  of  Bowdoin 
College,  it  is  locally  better  known  as  the  trading  center  for  a  large  spread 
of  coastal  villages  and  summer  resort  regions  to  the  east  and  south  of 
the  town.  The  township  extends  between  the  Androscoggin  River  and 
Merry  meeting  Bay  on  the  one  hand  and  the  northern  reaches  of  Casco 
Bay  on  the  other,  the  town  proper  growing  out  fanwise  from  the  mill 
district  at  the  falls  of  the  Androscoggin  where  the  population  is  heaviest. 
The  terrain  is  a  comparatively  flat  expanse  on  a  broad,  sandy  coastal 
plain.  Brunswick's  growth  has  been  according  to  plan;  its  streets  are 
well  laid  out,  most  of  them  still  unpaved,  running  at  right  angles  to 
Maine,  Bath,  Harpswell,  and  Pleasant  Streets.  Maine  Street,  198  feet 
wide,  is  second  only  to  that  street  of  Keene,  New  Hampshire,  which  is 
the  widest  main  street  in  New  England. 

Early  in  its  history  the  town  was  a  lumbering  center,  leading  the  State 
in  lumber  export  in  1820.  The  opening  of  a  cotton  mill  in  1809,  said  to 
have  been  the  first  in  the  State,  was  the  beginning  of  Brunswick's  in- 
dustrial development.  When  in  1843  Aaron  Dennison  began  making 
paper  boxes  at  the  rear  of  his  father's  house  at  8  Everett  Street,  he  laid 
the  foundation  for  the  now  internationally  known  Dennison  Manu- 
facturing Company,  which  in  1894  was  removed  to  Roxbury,  Massa- 
chusetts, and  now  has  large  factories  in  Framingham,  Massachusetts,  and 
elsewhere  in  this  country.  Incidentally  Dennison,  having  perfected  a 
method  for  making  the  works  of  watches  by  machinery,  established  the 
Boston  WTatch  Company,  now  the  Waltham  Watch  Company  of  Wal- 
tham,  Massachusetts.  The  major  industries  in  Brunswick  today  are  a 
textile  mill  and  paper  and  box  manufactories. 

With  the  growth  of  the  pulp  and  textile  mills  in  Brunswick  the  popula- 
tion has  increased  steadily  since  1880.    At  present  between  50  and  60 
per  cent  of  the  people  are  of  French-Canadian  stock,  chiefly  of  native 
parentage. 
Brunswick  was  named  in  1717  for  the  city  and  one-time  duchy  of 


140  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

Brunswick,  Germany,  but,  being  a  region  long  associated  with  Indian 
history,  it  was  already  replete  with  Indian  names.  At  least  three  tribes, 
the  Pejepscots,  the  Canibas,  and  the  Anasagunticooks,  had  inhabited  the 
territory.  Tradition  has  it  that  the  shores  of  Merrymeeting  Bay,  being 
accessible  by  water  and  rich  in  fish  and  game,  were  frequently  used  by 
Maine  Indians  as  gathering-places  for  feasting  and  tribal  ceremonies. 
The  bay,  a  rendezvous  for  thousands  of  migrating  ducks  and  Canada 
geese  (see  The  Nation's  Northeast  Corner),  was  called  Quabacook  (Ind.: 
'duck- water-place'),  and  is  still  one  of  the  chief  duck-hunting  resorts  on 
the  Atlantic  coast. 

The  Indians  called  the  region,  near  the  falls  of  the  Androscoggin,  Ahmelah- 
cogneturcook  ('place  of  much  fish,  fowl,  and  beasts').  And  so  it  was  to 
Thomas  Purchase,  the  first  known  trader  (about  1624-28)  with  the  power- 
ful Canibas  and  Anasagunticooks.  He  was  so  successful  in  curing  and 
exporting  salmon  and  sturgeon  at  the  falls  that  an  English  company  sta- 
tioned an  agent  near  this  commercially  strategic  point.  In  1688,  a  dozen 
years  after  the  first  settlement  that  had  grown  up  around  the  post  had 
been  abandoned  during  the  Indian  wars,  Governor  Andros  established 
Fort  Andros  at  Pejepscot,  as  the  place  was  then  known.  Two  years  later, 
both  the  fort  and  the  new  settlement  were  destroyed  by  Indians.  In 
1699,  a  treaty  with  the  Indians  was  ratified,  and  after  a  group  of  eight 
men,  known  as  the  Pejepscot  Proprietors,  had  purchased  and  plotted 
most  of  what  is  now  Brunswick  (1714-15),  Fort  George  was  erected  near 
the  site  of  Fort  Andros  in  1715.  Yet  seven  years  afterward,  during  Love- 
well's  War,  the  town  was  again  destroyed  by  Indians.  But  in  a  few 
years  the  settlement  had  begun  to  develop  uninterruptedly,  and  Fort 
George  was  dismantled  in  1737. 

Even  before  the  Indian  wars  were  over,  Brunswick  had  begun  to  plan 
its  municipal  and  economic  development.  In  1717,  its  citizens  voted  to 
construct  a  road  twelve  rods  wide,  extending  from  the  south  bastion  of 
Fort  George  to  the  head  of  Maquoit  Bay.  Maine  Street  between  Cabot 
Mills  and  the  beginning  of  the  Mall  retains  the  original  proportions.  The 
first  dam  across  the  Androscoggin,  highly  important  in  Brunswick's 
industrial  growth,  was  built  in  1753,  and  has  been  many  times  replaced. 
A  canal,  which  can  still  be  seen,  was  built  about  1797  from  Merrymeeting 
Bay  to  the  New  Meadows  River  to  facilitate  lumber  transportation.  But 
since  both  ends  of  the  canal  were  of  the  same  level  and  there  was  no 
current,  the  logs  refused  to  move  in  either  direction  and  the  lumbermen 
were  forced  to  abandon  the  undertaking.  Through  the  early  part  of  the 
nineteenth  century,  ships  were  built  in  Brunswick,  on  the  river  and  on 
Harpswell,  Middle,  and  Maquoit  Bays,  but  no  trace  remains  of  either 
the  shipbuilding  or  lumbering  industries  today. 

Brunswick  has  been  the  birthplace  of  many  noted  people,  perhaps  the 
best  known  of  whom  were  John  S.  C.  Abbott  (1805-77),  historian,  and 
George  Palmer  Putnam  (1814-72),  founder  of  the  publishing  house  of 
G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons.  A  man  who  left  his  mark  upon  the  local  scene  was 
Samuel  Melcher,  3d  (1775-1862),  a  son  of  one  of  the  town's  first  families, 


Brunswick  141 


who  with  no  formal  artistic  training  became  a  master  builder  and  de- 
signed houses  and  churches  of  great  beauty.  Some  of  Maine's  loveliest 
churches  were  done  by  Melcher,  most  outstanding  being  the  old  church 
in  Wiscasset  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b).  Samuel  Melcher,  though  a  very  old  man 
at  the  time,  supervised  the  delicate  woodcarving  in  the  Bowdoin  College 
Chapel  and,  always  willing  to  learn,  even  late  in  life  he  used  to  walk  to 
Boston  to  observe  the  trends  in  architecture  developing  there  and  in 
towns  along  the  way.  In  a  small  sphere  he  was  a  great  artist. 

Bowdoin  College  has,  of  course,  greatly  influenced  Brunswick's  position 
as  a  cultural  center.  The  college  was  founded  in  1794,  but  because  of 
financial  difficulties  it  was  not  actually  in  session  until  1802.  Seeking 
the  patronage  of  a  family  both  wealthy  and  sympathetic  to  education 
and  the  arts,  the  founders  wisely  hit  upon  the  name  of  James  Bowdoin, 
Governor  of  Massachusetts,  for  their  new  college.  John  Hancock,  Gov- 
ernor after  Bowdoin's  death  and  his  bitter  personal  and  political  enemy, 
so  the  story  goes,  delayed  the  starting  of  the  college  some  two  or  three 
years  by  declining  to  sign  a  document  to  incorporate  an  institution  with 
a  name  so  odious  to  him  and  to  his  political  adherents,  and  not  until 
after  his  death  in  1 793  was  the  college  granted  official  status.  Governor 
Samuel  Adams  signed  the  bill  on  Midsummer's  Day,  1794. 

The  Honorable  James  Bowdoin,  the  Governor's  son,  fulfilled  the  hopes  of 
the  founders  by  giving  generously  of  land  and  money  to  the  college,  be- 
queathing it  as  well  his  collection  of  Dutch  and  Italian  masters,  many  of 
them  gathered  while  he  was  United  States  Minister  to  Spain  and  France. 
This,  the  first  private  collection  of  European  art  to  be  made  by  an  Ameri- 
can and  brought  to  this  country,  is  in  the  Walker  Art  Building.  It  re- 
veals the  excellent  taste  and  discrimination  of  its  owner,  who  was  one 
of  the  first  of  a  series  of  New  England  gentlemen  of  culture  who  combined 
the  life  of  refinement  with  a  commercial  and  political  success.  Governor 
Bowdoin,  himself  powerful,  wealthy,  and  aristocratic,  was  the  grandson 
of  a  penniless  refugee  from  religious  persecution,  Pierre  Baudouin,  who 
landed  at  Casco  in  1687.  The  Governor,  who  Anglicized  the  family 
name,  was  the  first  president  of  the  American  Academy  of  Arts  and 
Sciences,  a  friend  of  Washington  and  Franklin,  and  a  figure  of  political 
prominence  during  the  Revolution. 

Although  Bowdoin  College  is  not  large,  it  has  a  history,  interesting  as  it 
is  varied,  of  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  years,  during  which  it  has  grown 
rich  with  tradition  and  has  enjoyed  high  scholastic  standards  and  attain- 
ments, many  of  its  professors  having  achieved  international  reputation. 
In  proportion  to  its  size,  the  number  of  prominent  statesmen,  scholars, 
authors,  scientists,  financiers,  and  business  men  who  have  been  graduated 
from  Bowdoin  is  impressive.  A  few  leaders  most  closely  identified  with  the 
college  are:  Nathaniel  Hawthorne  and  Henry  Wadsworth  Longfellow; 
Rear  Admiral  Robert  E.  Peary,  discoverer  of  the  North  Pole,  and  Com- 
mander Donald  B.  MacMillan,  Arctic  explorer;  Thomas  B.  Reed,  Speaker 
of  the  House  of  Representatives,  and  Senator  William  P.  Frye;  William 
Pitt  Fessenden,  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  under  Lincoln,  Hannibal 


142  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

Hamlin,  fifteenth  Vice-President,  and  Franklin  Pierce,  fourteenth  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States. 

There  has  always  been  gathered  about  Bowdoin  a  circle  of  intellectual 
and  literary  people  which,  though  small,  has  definitely  made  its  influence 
felt  all  through  Maine  for  a  century  and  more.  The  college  brings  nu- 
merous lecturers,  well-known  speakers,  and  musical  organizations  to 
Brunswick  each  year.  Series  of  public  lectures  on  various  subjects  in 
special  fields,  given  by  ten  or  more  authorities,  are  sponsored  by  the 
college  every  two  years.  These  Institutes,  as  they  are  called,  have  in- 
cluded lecture  series  on  modern  history,  modern  literature,  the  fine  arts, 
the  social  sciences,  the  natural  sciences,  politics  and  economics,  and 
philosophy. 


TOUR  1  —  3.5  m. 


W.  from  Maine  St.  on  Pleasant  St.;  R.  from  Pleasant  St.  on  Union  St. 

i.  The  Oilman  Mansion  (1799)  (private,  open  by  special  permission: 
small  fee),  cor.  Union  and  Oak  Sts.,  a  24-room  white  Colonial  structure, 
rises  imposingly  among  the  fountain  elms  of  its  small  park.  Once  the 
Great  House  of  the  town,  with  a  long  view  down  the  river,  its  wide  lawns 
sloping  to  Maine  Street  and  along  the  Androscoggin,  it  is  now  hemmed  in 
by  the  tenement  homes  of  mill  workers.  Samuel  Melcher  3d,  native 
craftsman  and  master  builder,  began  construction  of  the  mansion  in  1798 
(at  that  time  he  was  working  also  on  Massachusetts  Hall,  Bowdoin's  first 
building)  for  Captain  John  Dunlap,  whose  great-grandchildren  live  in  it 
today.  To  be  shown  this  house  is  to  be  led  through  the  pages  of  a  family 
history,  for  here  are  ancestral  portraits  —  some  by  Badger  (see  The  Arts) ; 
McKeen  family  relics  —  for  the  Gilmans  are  also  directly  descendent 


BRUNSWICK.  POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  Gilman  Mansion  15.  Massachusetts  Hall 

2.  Site  of  Fort  Andros  16.  Winthrop  Hall 

3.  Falls  of  the  Androscoggin  17.  Maine  Hall 

4.  Site  of  Fort  George  18.  King  Chapel 

5.  Emmons  House  19.  Appleton  Hall 

6.  Governor  Dunlap  House  20.  Hyde  Hall 

7.  Pejepscot  Historical  Museum  21.  Hubbard  Hall 

8.  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe  House  22.  Walker  Art  Gallery 

9.  Chandler  House  23.  Searles  Science  Building 

10.  Hawthorne  House  24.  Sargent  Gymnasium 

11.  President's  House  25.  Dudley  Coe  Infirmary 

12.  Bowdoin  Pines  26.  Moulton  Union 
Bowdoin  College:  27.  First  Parish  Church 

13.  Seth  Adams  Hall  28.  Chamberlain  House 

14.  Memorial  Hall 


BRUNSWICK 


144  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

from  Joseph  McKeen,  the  first  president  of  Bowdoin  College;  period 
costumes;  antique  dolls  and  toys;  old  books  and  documents;  and  valuable 
furniture.  Its  exterior,  which  had  a  balustraded  roof  and  arched  dormer 
windows,  was  doubtless  more  impressive  before  the  mansion  was  re- 
modeled by  David  Dunlap  in  1841,  but  much  of  the  original  interior  is 
retained,  including  nine  of  the  old  open  fireplaces.  A  charming  hall 
stairway  with  mahogany  banisters  ascends  to  the  third  floor  in  a  sweep- 
ing curve.  The  fine  white  paneling  of  the  principal  rooms  was  cut  from 
Brunswick  pine  boards.  The  full  5o-foot  length  of  the  house  is  occupied 
by  two  identical  rooms  opening  into  each  other  so  that  they  make  a  great 
formal  drawing-room.  The  gilded  wallpaper  and  crystal  chandeliers  in 
these  /parlors'  were  imported  from  France.  Many  people  important  in 
Maine's  history  have  lived  in  this  house  or  were  entertained  here:  David 
Dunlap,  who  represented  the  District  of  Maine  in  the  Massachusetts 
legislature  from  1810  to  1817;  Robert  Dunlap,  Governor  of  Maine,  1834- 
38,  and  member  of  Congress;  and  Congressman  Charles  J.  Oilman,  father 
of  the  present  owners.  At  the  S.  side  of  the  mansion,  between  its  long  ell 
and  Oak  Street,  is  the  more  than  century-old  garden,  worth  seeing  at  any 
time  during  the  summer. 

R.  from  Union  St.  on  Oilman  Ave.;  L.  from  Oilman  Ave.  on  Maine  St. 

2.  A  tablet  in  the  corner  of  the  Cabot  Manufacturing  Company's  Mill- 
yard,  by  the  river  bank,  marks  the  Site  of  Fort  Andros  (1688-90),  Bruns- 
wick's first  fort.  The  Cabot  Company,  largest  of  Brunswick's  industries 
and  a  pioneer  in  the  production  of  rayon  goods,  is  the  successor  of  the 
Brunswick  Manufacturing  Company,  incorporated  in  1809  and  believed 
to  have  been  the  first  to  operate  a  cotton  mill  in  Maine.  It,  too,  occupied 
this  site. 

3.  The  Falls  of  the  Androscoggin  are  best  viewed  from  the  Brunswick- 
Topsham  bridge,  named  in  honor  of  Frank  J.  Wood,  whose  efforts  made 
its  building  possible.   In  spring  when  the  river  is  in  flood  the  spray  of  the 
falls  washes  the  roadway  of  the  bridge  and  their  thunder  reverberates 
through  the  whole  river  section  of  the  town.  Topsham,  a  quiet  residential 
village  directly  across  the  river  in  Sagadahoc  County,  seems  like  a  con- 
tinuation of  Brunswick. 

Retrace  on  Maine  St.;  L.  on  Mason  St. 

4.  The  Site  of  Fort  George,  1715-37,  is  marked  by  a  tablet  (L),  cor.  Mason 
and  Maine  Sts. 

R.  from  Mason  St.  on  Federal  St. 

Federal  Street,  lined  with  very  old  elms,  is  Brunswick's  chief  residential 
street.  On  it,  the  oldest  and  most  beautiful  houses  of  the  town  preserve 
an  atmosphere  of  dignity  and  serenity.  Even  those  which  have  been 
modernized,  along  with  those  neglected,  retain  beautiful  doorways  and 
other  characteristic  features  of  Colonial  design. 

5.  The  Emmons  House  (1814)  (private),  25  Federal  St.,  a  white  Colonial 
structure  with,  at  one  time,  considerable  charm,  now  greatly  altered, 
was  for  many  years  the  home  of  Henry  Wadsworth  Longfellow  (see 


Brunswick  145 


PORTLAND)  when  he  was  Bowdoin's  first  professor  of  modern  lan- 
guages. Here  he  is  said  to  have  written  his  novel,  'Outre  Mer.' 

6.  The  Governor  Dunlap  House  (private),  27  Federal  St.,  formerly  an  ele- 
gant mansion,  is  now  an  apartment  house.    For  many  years  the  three- 
story  wooden  structure  was  the  home  of  one  of  Brunswick's  oldest  and 
most  outstanding  families  (see  above,  Oilman  House),  a  recent  descendant 
of  which,  Major-General  Robert  Dunlap  of  the  U.S.  Marine  Corps,  lost 
his  life  in  1931  at  Tours,  France,  while  attempting  heroically  to  save  a 
peasant  woman  from  a  landslide.   A  collection  of  the  medals  awarded  to 
him  may  be  seen  at  Hubbard  Hall,  Bowdoin  College  (see  below}. 

R.  front  Federal  St.  on  School  St. 

7.  The  Pejepscot  Historical  Museum  (1825)   (open  weekdays,  July  and 
August,  3-5),  12  School  St.,  formerly  a  church,  was  acquired  by  the 
Pejepscot  Historical  Society  in  1891.   The  simple  little  weather-stained 
museum  houses  a  fine  collection  of  historical  material;  domestic,  foreign, 
Indian,  and  military  relics;  currency  exhibits;  period  costumes,  trinkets, 
and  portraits. 

Retrace  to  Federal  St.;  R.  on  Federal  St. 

8.  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe  House  (1806)  (open:  gift  shop  in  rear),  63  Federal 
St.,  was  the  home  of  Mrs.  Stowe  while  writing  'Uncle  Tom's  Cabin'  and 
other  works.   While  living  under  its  high-pitched  roof,  she  wrote  to  her 
husband : '  Our  air-tight  stoves  warm  all  but  the  floor,  heat  your  head  and 
keep  your  feet  freezing ' 

9.  The  Chandler  House  (1806)  (private),  75  Federal  St.,  like  the  Oilman 
and  Governor  Dunlap  Houses,  was  constructed  by  Samuel  Melcher  and 
has  a  history  of  elegance  and  fine  living.    Built  for  Parker  Cleaveland 
(see  below],  it  is  architecturally  the  most  distinguished  of  Brunswick's 
houses.  Its  sagging  balustrades  and  weathered  walls  retain  their  original 
iSth-century  delicacy  in  spite  of  the  ravages  of  time  and  weather.  The 
five  tall  chimneys  leaning  precariously  over  the  ancient  roof  are  mute 
evidence  of  the  many  fires  which  were  once  needed  to  heat  the  beauti- 
fully paneled  rooms  within.   The  small  panes  of  the  windows  still  occa- 
sionally reflect  the  glow  from  the  open  hearths,  and  the  Colonial  antiques 
cherished  from  generation  to  generation  furnish,  still  intact,  the  gracious 
interior. 

10.  In  the  House  (private)  at  76  Federal  St.,  Nathaniel  Hawthorne  had 
a  room  for  part  of  his  student  days.   Since  it  was  almost  directly  across 
the  street  from  the  residence  of  Professor  Cleaveland,  young  Nat  could 
watch  visitors  come  and  go  from  the  front  door  opposite  his  window,  and, 
the  story  goes,  it  was  also  possible  for  him  to  see  the  Cleaveland's  at- 
tractive servant  girl  who  always  answered  the  door.   Hawthorne,  a  shy 
youth,  never  tried  to  know  the  girl,  but  would  sit  for  hours  at  his  window 
waiting  for  her  to  appear  in  the  doorway  across  the  street. 

11.  The  President's  House  (private)  85  Federal  St.,  home  of  Kenneth 
C.  M.  Sills,  President  of  Bowdoin  College,  is  an  excellent  example  of  a 


146  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

modified  Mediterranean  type  of  architecture  popular  with  retired  sea 
captains  of  a  century  ago.  These  substantial  houses  peculiar  to  Maine's 
seacoast  towns  have  an  appearance  of  dignity,  and  often  contain  excel- 
lent examples  of  woodcarving  or  of  fine  glasswork,  as  that  in  the  side- 
lights of  the  entrance  door  here.  Square  structures  of  board  siding  or  of 
brick,  characterized  by  solidity  rather  than  grace,  they  are  generally 
two-and-a-half  or  three-storied,  the  top  floor  windows,  small  and  oblong, 
peeping  out  from  under  the  heavy  eaves  of  the  hip  roof  which  is  in- 
variably surmounted  by  an  ornate  cupola. 

R.  from  Federal  St.  on  Bath  St. 

12.  The  Bowdoin  Pines,  occupying  a  small  area  east  of  the  college 
campus,  overshadow  Bath  St.  (L),  the  main  highway.   These  trees,  tall, 
erect,  and  carefully  preserved,  have  grown  up  with  the  college  and  share 
in  its  history. 

L.  from  Bath  St.  on  Harpswell  St.;  enter  Bowdoin  Campus  at  Harpswell  St. 

Bowdoin  College  is  most  impressive  when  viewed  from  the  inside  of  its 
compact  quadrangular  campus,  which  may  be  approached  from  any  of 
several  memorial  gateways.  (Guides  provided  at  college  office,  Massachu- 
setts Hall;  all  buildings  open  at  discretion  of  college  authorities.) 

13.  Seth  Adams  Hall  (i 860-61),  across  Harpswell  St.  from  the  campus 
on  the  triangular  field  known  as  '  the  Delta,'  is  a  classroom  building  which 
formerly  housed  the  Maine  School  of  Medicine  (1821-1921),  and  its  top 
floor  is  still  occupied  by  a  collection  of  medical  exhibits. 

14.  Memorial  Hall  (1868)  (NW.  end  of  campus,  near  Bath  St.),  an  archi- 
tectural '  white  elephant '  built  of  local  granite  in  the  so-called  '  General 
Grant  Gothic'  style,  contains  classrooms  and  an  auditorium.    Erected 
as  a  memorial  to  the  Bowdoin  men  participating  in  the  Civil  War,  it 
contains,  among  other  important  paintings,  the  best  known  portrait 
of  Nathaniel  Hawthorne. 

15.  Massachusetts  Hall  (1802)  (left  from  Memorial  Hall)  houses  the  ad- 
ministrative offices  of  the  college.    In  this  square  Colonial  structure  of 
painted  red  brick,  the  first  building  of  the  college  to  be  constructed,  lived 
President  Joseph  McKeen  and  his  family,  his  faculty  of  two,  and  Bow- 
doin's  first  class  of  eight  boys.  Many  years  later  it  was  rebuilt,  the  second 
and  third  stories  forming  a  hall  for  faculty  meetings  and  for  the  exhibition 
of  the  Cleaveland  Cabinet,  a  valuable  and  extensive  collection  of  geo- 
logical specimens  made  by  Professor  Parker  Cleaveland  of  Bowdoin, 
one  of  America's  first  geologists.  In  1936  the  interior  of  the  building  was 
restored  more  nearly  to  its  original  form,  and  the  Cleaveland  Cabinet 
was  removed  to  the  science  building.  Two  interesting  features  of  Massa- 
chusetts Hall  are  the  graceful  curved  stairway  opposite  the  front  entrance, 
and  in  the  office  of  the  president,  the  open  fireplace,  complete  with  black 
caldrons  and  swinging  cranes,  which  has  been  left  as  it  was  when  the  room 
was  the  college  kitchen. 

1 6  and  17.  Winthrop  Hall  (1822)  (R),  named  after  Governor  Winthrop 
of  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony,  and  Maine  Hall  (1808),  where  Haw- 


Brunswick  147 


thorne  roomed,  are  dormitories.  Longfellow's  room,  27  North  Winthrop, 
is  marked  with  a  marble  tablet  on  the  outside  wall. 

1 8.  King  Chapel  (1845-55),  a  twin-spired  structure  of  rough  granite 
designed  by  Richard  Upjohn,  is  considered  a  fine  example  of  modified 
Romanesque  style,  unusual  for  the  time  when  it  was  built.  It  represents 
a  departure  from  New  England's  architectural  conventions  in  that  it  is 
modeled  on  the  plan  of  an  English  school  chapel.  It  contains,  besides  the 
large  organ  presented  by  the  late  Cyrus  H.  K.  Curtis,  music  rooms,  and 
class  and  conference  rooms. 

19  and  20.  Appleton  Hall  (1843),  named  for  Bowdoin's  second  president, 
and  Hyde  Hall  (1917),  named  for  the  seventh  president,  are  also  dormi- 
tories. 

21.  Hubbard  Hall  (1902-03)  (R),  the  college  library  (open  daily  8.30- 
10.30  during  college  term;  daily  except  Sundays,  lO^t,  during  vacation; 
library  privileges  available  to  the  public)  was  designed  by  Henry  Vaughan 
of  Boston.   It  is  constructed  in  the  collegiate  Gothic  tradition  of  brick, 
granite,  and  limestone,  with  a  high  battlemented  tower  which  dominates 
the  south  side  of  the  campus.  At  both  ends  of  the  facade  are  projecting 
bays  whose  balustrades  and  gables  relieve  the  long  lines  of  the  steeply 
pitched  slate  roof,  while  oriel  windows  give  charm  and  light  to  the  four 
large  rooms  in  the  wings.  The  college  library  includes  the  private  library 
of  the  Hon.  James  Bowdoin,  one  of  the  largest  and  most  complete  Long- 
fellow collections,  the  exhaustive  Isaac  W.  Dyer  collection  of  Carlyliana, 
the  Guild  German  Dialect  Collection,  the  Huguenot  Collection  of  Ameri- 
can-French writings,  an  extensive  library  of  Mainiana,  valuable  sets  of 
19th-century  periodicals,  and  an  important  Arctic  exhibit.   In  the  second 
floor  hall  are  hung  the  portraits  of  Bowdoin's  presidents.   An  art  room 
contains  a  creditable  collection  of  books  and  pictures  for  study  of  the 
fine  arts. 

22.  The  Walker  Art  Gallery  (1894)   (R)   (open  daily  10-12,  2-4;  2-4 
Sundays  and  holidays}  has  been  called  one  of  the  best  small  museums  of 
the  country.  Designed  by  Charles  F.  McKim  in  a  style  derivative  of  the 
Romanesque  and  built  of  brick,  limestone,  and  granite,  the  building 
was  one  of  the  first  and  most  suitable  of  its  kind,  serving  as  a  model  for 
other  museums.  Niches  containing  busts  of  Greek  characters  adorn  the 
facade.    In  the  interior,  four  tympana  under  the  arches  of  the  central 
dome,  each  26  feet  wide,  contain  murals  symbolizing  the  artistic  achieve- 
ments of  Athens,  Rome,  Florence,  and  Venice,  executed  by  John  LaFarge, 
Elihu  Vedder,  Abbott  Thayer,  and  Kenyon  Cox  respectively.  The  James 
Bowdoin  collection  of  drawings  and  paintings  contains  rare  sketches  by 
artists  as  diverse  as  Rembrandt,  Breughel,  and  Tintoretto,  as  well  as 
many  important  American  Colonial  portraits  by  Badger,  Feke,  Gilbert 
Stuart,  and  Copley  (see  Maine  and  the  Arts).   Stuart  is  said  to  have  jour- 
neyed to  Maine  four  times  to  make  copies  of  the  famous  original  of  his 
portrait  of  Thomas  Jefferson.   The  Warren  collection  of  Classical  anti- 
quities is  particularly  valuable,  containing  rare  and  even  unique  objects 
of  special  interest  to  archeologists.   Also  important  are  the  carved  As- 


148  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

Syrian  tablets,  the  Coffin  collection  of  etchings,  and  many  noted  paint- 
ings, including  a  well-known  portrait  of  Longfellow,  and  several  Winslow 
Homers.  Exhibitions  of  the  work  of  contemporary  artists  are  held  in  the 
Museum  from  time  to  time. 

23.  The  Searles  Science  Building  (R)  houses  a  small  museum  of  botanical 
and  zoological  specimens. 

Cross  campus  R.  to  driveway. 

24.  The  Sargent  Gymnasium,  erected  in  honor  of  Dudley  Allen  Sargent, 
pioneer  in  physical  training  and  the  circus  strong  man  who  became 
Bowdoin's  first  athletic  director,  has  been  in  recent  years  supplemented 
by  a  cage  with  an  indoor  track  and  a  swimming  pool,  the  latter  given 
by  Cyrus  Curtis. 

25  and  26.  The  Dudley  Coe  Infirmary  (L)  and  the  Moulton  Union,  con- 
taining cafeteria,  lounge,  recreation  rooms,  and  offices,  complete  the 
campus  buildings. 

East  of  the  campus  behind  Sargent  Gymnasium  and  across  Harpswell 
St.  is  Whittier  Field,  with  its  memorial  grandstand,  where  the  major 
athletic  events  of  the  college  take  place;  and  south  on  the  campus  drive- 
way behind  Moulton  Union,  down  Coffin  St.  and  beyond  Longfellow  Ave., 
is  Pickard  Field,  where  the  practice  grounds,  tennis  courts,  and  the 
newly  constructed  Pickard  Field  House  (1937)  are  situated. 
Return  to  Bath  St. 

27.  The  First  Parish  Congregational  Church,  across  from  Bowdoin  College 
at  the  junction  of  Harpswell,  Maine,  and  Bath  Sts.,  is  known  as  'the 
College  Church'  and  'the  Church  on  the  Hill.'    Designed  by  Richard 
Upjohn,  architect  for  Trinity  Church,  New  York  City,  and  erected  in 
1846  on  the  site  of  a  previous  structure  designed  and  built  by  Samuel 
Melcher,  it  is  a  good  example  of  the  Victorian  Gothic.   It  is  constructed 
entirely  of  wood.   A  tall  spire  which  originally  surmounted  the  steeple 
was  several  times  struck  by  lightning  and  finally  destroyed;  it  has  never 
been  replaced.  Dr.  Calvin  E.  Stowe,  husband  of  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe, 
was  professor  of  religion  at  the  college  and  preached  in  the  church.  One 
Sunday  while  sitting  in  her  pew,  which  is  now  marked  by  a  commemora- 
tive Plaque,  Mrs.  Stowe  had  a  vision  of  the  death  of  Uncle  Tom  which 
inspired  that  scene  in  her  book.   From  the  pulpit  of  this  church  Long- 
fellow delivered  the  poem,  '0  Morituri,  Te  Salutamus,'  written  for  the 
5oth  anniversary  of  the  graduation  of  his  class  at  Bowdoin  (1825).  Bow- 
doin's commencement  exercises  are  always  held  here. 

28.  The  Chamberlain  House  (private),  cor.  Maine  and  Potter  Sts.,  nearly 
opposite  the  First  Parish  Church,  was  built  in  1808.   When  first  made  a 
teacher  at  Bowdoin,  Longfellow  set  up  housekeeping  in  this  house,  to 
which  he  brought  his  bride.    At  that  time  it  was  a  cottage,  consisting 
only  of  the  present  second  and  third  stories.  Later,  when  General  Joshua 
Chamberlain  (1828-1914)  came  to  live  there,  these  were  brought  forward 
and  jacked  up  so  that  the  floor  below  might  be  built  under  them.  Thus 
the  building  was  transformed  from  a  poet's  cottage  in  a  field  to  a  gen- 


Houlton  149 


eral's  mansion  on  a  busy  street.  Chamberlain,  a  Bowdoin  graduate,  was 
a  professor  at  the  college  when  he  obtained  leave  of  absence  to  serve  in 
the  Civil  War.  He  participated  in  24  engagements  and  was  wounded 
six  times.  He  received  the  Congressional  Medal  of  Honor  for  his  defense 
of  Little  Round  Top  at  Gettysburg,  and  left  the  service  with  the  rank  of 
Major-General  of  Volunteers.  The  General  became  President  of  Bowdoin, 
was  elected  Governor  of  Maine  in  1866,  and,  as  Major-General  of  the 
State  Militia,  kept  peace  during  the  riotous  winter  of  1878-79  when  the 
Democrats  and  Greenbackers  combined  to  gain  control  of  the  State 
Legislature  (see  History). 

OTHER  POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

29.  Mere  Point,  7  m.,  south  on  Maine  St.,  is  one  of  several  coastal  re- 
sorts near  Brunswick.   A  Memorial  Boulder  and  Tablet,  0.1  m.  right  from 
main  road  beyond  entrance  to  Mere  Point  Colony,  commemorates  the 
round-the-world  flight  of  U.S.  Army  pilots  in  1924.    The  bronze  tablet 
was  erected  in  1925  in  a  field  near  the  point  where  the  American  aviators 
first  landed  in  the  United  States.    A  record  of  the  flight,  which  started 
in  Seattle,  Wash.,  but  was  never  fully  completed,  is  inscribed  on  the 
tablet,  placed  here  under  the  auspices  of  Percival  P.  Baxter,  at  that  time 
Governor  of  Maine. 

At  the  tip  of  Mere  Point  the  waters  of  Maquoit  and  Middle  Bays  merge 
into  the  wider  reaches  of  Casco  Bay  with  a  breath-taking  prospect  of  many 
wooded  islands  and  distant  hazy  shores.  Birch  Island  (see  Island  Tours) 
is  at  the  left  of  Mere  Point  in  Middle  Bay. 

30.  The  Old  Colonial  Houses  of  Topsham,  0.5  m.  north  along  State  24 
right  from  Maine  Street  across  Frank  J.  Wood  Bridge,  combine  beauty 
and  utility  in  their  architectural  designs.    Many  of  these  houses,  whose 
owners  could  look  down  on  the  river  from  their  windows  to  see  their 
ships  anchored  in  the  calm  waters  below  The  Falls,  have  been  little 
changed  since  they  were  built  during  the  prosperous  shipping  days  in  the 
early  nineteenth  century.    Some  of  the  loveliest  of  these  dwellings  were 
designed  and  built  by  Samuel  Melcher,  3d. 

31.  Merrymeeting  Bay,  famous  duck-hunting  ground,  4  m.  north  on 
State  24  (see  Tour  10)  (see  Sports  and  Recreation). 


HOULTON 


Town:  Alt.  340;  pop.  6865;  sett.  1805,  incorp.  1831. 

Railroad  Stations:  W.  end  of  Florence  Ave.  for  B.  &  A.  R.R.;  NW.  of  Main  and 

Military  Sts.  intersection  for  Canadian  Pacific  Ry. 

Bus  Stations:  Feeley  Drug  Co.,  Market  St.,  for  Grey  Lines. 

Airport:  2  m.  E.  on  US  2, 


150  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

U.S.  and  Canadian  Customs  &  Immigration  Stations:  2.5  m.  E.  on  US  2. 

Accommodations:  Three  hotels. 

Hunting  and  Fishing:  Guides  available. 

Swimming:  Nickerson  Lake,  5  m.  SW.  on  State  166;  Carry  Lake,  7  m.N.  on  US  1. 

Annual  Events:  Houlton  Fish  and  Game  Club  field  day,  September. 

ATTRACTIVE  and  tree-shaded,  Houlton  combines  the  qualities  of  the 
old-fashioned  country  town  with  those  of  a  modern  city.  The  seat  of 
Aroostook  County,  one  of  the  richest  potato-raising  regions  in  the 
United  States,  and  focal  point  of  the  northernmost  part  of  Maine  that  is 
actively  developing  its  assets  as  a  recreation  area,  Houlton  has  become  a 
large  commercial  center.  Yet,  in  spite  of  the  heavy  traffic  of  motor  trucks 
and  automobiles  over  its  smooth  pavement,  Market  Square,  the  spacious 
heart  of  the  town's  business  district,  retains  an  atmosphere  reminiscent  of 
creaking  wagon  wheels  and  patient  horses  tethered  to  sidewalk  hitching 
posts.  And  the  residential  sections,  sweeping  upward  and  away  from  the 
Meduxnekeag  River  through  the  center  of  the  town,  have  a  leisurely, 
almost  rural  air  somehow  paradoxical  to  their  broad  streets  and  well-kept 
appearance  that  would  do  credit  to  a  modern  suburb.  It  is  doubtless  the 
lack  of  crowding  and  the  many  fine  old  elms  —  as  old,  some  of  them,  as 
Houlton  itself  —  that  preserve  so  well  the  dignified  atmosphere  of  a  New 
England  town. 

Houlton  lies  in  a  shallow  natural  bowl  between  wooded  ridges.  To  the 
east  the  terrain  rolls  upward  to  the  town  line  where,  adjoining  the  high- 
way, the  frontier  between  the  United  States  and  Canada  has  the  usual 
custom  houses  and  markers,  and  is  fortified  only  by  a  few  bushes  and  a 
dilapidated  fence.  At  the  west  end  of  the  town  the  fertile  land  is  traversed 
in  a  general  north  and  south  direction  by  a  large  esker  or  'horse-back/ 
which  is  considered  one  of  the  world's  outstanding  examples  of  this  type 
of  glacial  formation.  An  esker  is  a  ridge  of  gravel  created  between  the 
walls  of  a  crack  or  groove  in  the  glacier  and  left  standing  as  the  ice  receded. 
Besides  being  a  trading  center  for  most  of  Aroostook,  Houlton  is  the 
shipping  point  for  potatoes  produced  in  the  surrounding  farm  regions. 
Although  early  in  its  history  it  was  known  as  a  lumbering  town,  most  of 
the  operations  were  actually  carried  on  along  the  rivers  to  the  north, 
especially  on  the  Allagash,  the  Aroostook,  the  Meduxnekeag  (Ind. 
1  where  people  go  out'),  and  the  St.  John. 

Lumbering  operations  near  Houlton  began  in  a  small  way.  The  first 
settlers  made  a  business  of  turning  out  limited  quantities  of  shingles  and 
boards,  which  they  rafted  to  Woodstock  and  Fredericton.  A  sawmill  was 
erected  in  1810  by  Aaron  Putnam,  one  of  the  fathers  of  the  settlement, 
when  Houlton's  first  dam  was  built  across  a  small  creek.  Early  lumber 
drives  were  worked  under  severe  handicaps,  the  greatest  of  which  was  the 
necessity  of  trucking  the  rafts  around  Jackson  Falls.  Since  potato  farms 
quickly  supplanted  the  wooded  districts  of  Aroostook,  the  lumber  in- 
dustry, never  as  extensive  as  in  Penobscot  and  Somerset  Counties,  soon 
ceased  to  be  of  primary  importance. 


Houlton  151 


When,  in  1799,  the  citizens  of  New  Salem,  Massachusetts,  petitioned  the 
legislature  of  the  Commonwealth  for  money  with  which  to  found  an 
academy,  they  were  granted,  as  was  customary,  a  piece  of  land  in  the 
wilderness  of  Maine,  to  sell  it  if  and  as  they  could.  This  grant  is  now  the 
south  half  of  Houlton;  the  northern  part  is  a  section  of  the  Williams 
College  grant,  presented  at  about  the  same  time  to  the  Williamstown, 
Massachusetts,  institution.  A  group  of  New  Salem  men  purchased  the 
academy  land.  Of  the  original  thirteen,  however,  only  three  —  Joseph 
Houlton,  from  whom  the  town  eventually  took  its  name,  and  Aaron  and 
Joseph  Putnam  —  ever  actually  saw  the  land.  These  men  established 
their  settlement  in  1805.  They  found  that  ingress  to  their  new  home  was 
not  only  arduous  but  dangerous,  for  beyond  Old  Town  the  District  of 
Maine  was  largely  unexplored  forest,  dense,  and  trackless.  The  journey 
to  the  site  of  Houlton  had  to  be  accomplished  by  way  of  a  complicated 
system  of  waterways  and  carries  from  the  Penobscot,  or  up  the  St.  John 
River  to  Woodstock  and  thence  through  the  woods.  Development  of  the 
land  was  slow.  The  newcomers  had  to  struggle  for  their  existence  as  if  on 
a  distant  frontier,  for  supplies  were  brought  in  to  them  only  after  infinite 
labor,  and  the  growing  season  was  very  short.  A  cow  was  a  luxury,  and 
every  piece  of  mill  machinery  was  worth  its  weight  in  gold. 

In  1822,  William  H.  Cary  of  New  Salem  came  to  Houlton,  where  he  built 
the  spacious  house  on  the  hill  above  the  present  Canadian  Pacific  Station. 
He,  with  his  son,  Shepard  Cary,  founded  Gary's  Mills,  a  combination  of 
foundry,  carding,  and  grist  mills,  thus  establishing  the  town's  first  industry 
of  importance.  Members  of  this  family  contributed  to  the  political,  social, 
and  economic  development  of  their  town  and  State. 

A  road  built  in  1827  connecting  Houlton  with  Baskahegan  greatly 
facilitated  transportation,  and  Houlton  finally  ceased  to  feel  itself  set 
apart  from  the  world  when  in  1828  it  was  the  garrison  for  seven  companies 
of  United  States  Infantry.  The  National  Government  purchased  twenty- 
five  acres  of  land;  the  Hancock  Barracks  were  constructed  and  a  parade 
ground  was  laid  out,  and  Houlton  found  itself  the  northeasternmost 
military  station  in  the  United  States.  A  new  era  of  prosperity  began.  The 
presence  of  the  post  stimulated  local  trade,  gave  the  people  a  market  for 
their  produce  and  labor,  and  attracted  more  settlers  to  the  town.  Finally, 
in  1832,  the  construction  of  the  military  road  (now  Maine  166)  between 
Houlton  and  Bangor  was  completed. 

With  the  outbreak  of  the  so-called  Aroostook  War  (1839)  that  climaxed 
the  old  border  controversy,  Houlton  jumped  into  national  prominence. 
Twelve  companies  of  Maine  militia  were  sent  in,  and  through  the  bitter 
cold  of  the  long  whiter  they  subsisted  on  hardtack  and  salt  pork  and  what 
little  food  the  overburdened  inhabitants  could  spare  them.  Major  R.  M. 
Kirby,  in  charge  of  the  army  post,  refused  to  take  any  part  in  the  '  war '  for 
fear  of  placing  the  United  States  Government  in  a  compromising  position. 
The  dispute  was  finally  settled,  and  the  national  boundary  established. 
Eight  years  later,  the  Government  withdrew  its  troops  and  the  post  was 
abandoned. 


152  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

Houlton  thereupon  entered  upon  an  economic  slump  from  which  it  began 
to  recover  in  1862  when  the  New  Brunswick  Railway  (now  the  Canadian 
Pacific)  was  built  from  St.  Andrews,  New  Brunswick,  to  a  point  on  the 
Woodstock  turnpike  only  five  miles  from  town.  By  1870  the  branch  had 
been  extended  into  the  town  so  that  communication  with  the  seaboard  by 
way  of  New  Brunswick  was  opened.  The  following  year  the  European  and 
North  American  Railway  (now  the  Maine  Central)  was  completed  from 
Bangor  to  Vanceboro,  thereby  giving  Houlton  rail  connections  by  a 
circuitous  route  with  the  cities  to  the  south.  Up  to  this  time  Houlton  had 
to  market  its  products  in  New  Brunswick,  and  now  not  only  the  town  it- 
self but  the  whole  of  Aroostook  County  was  able  to  capitalize  on  its 
agricultural  resources.  In  1894  the  Bangor  and  Aroostook  Railroad 
reached  Houlton;  within  a  few  years  it  had  extended  its  line  through  the 
northern  territory  as  far  as  Fort  Kent.  By  this  linking  of  Houlton  and  the 
surrounding  country  with  the  great  national  markets,  a  new  prosperity 
was  brought  to  the  people  of  Aroostook;  they  expanded  their  farming 
operations,  the  population  began  to  increase  rapidly,  and  Houlton  was 
prominent  in  the  development  of  the  country. 

The  railroads  remain  of  first  importance  to  the  continued  economic 
success  of  this  region,  for  the  difficulties  of  highway  transportation  are 
considerable.  In  spite  of  the  efficiency  of  modern  snow-removal  equip- 
ment and  the  improved  conditions  of  the  roadways,  drifting  snow  often 
renders  motor  traffic  completely  helpless;  heavy  trucking  over  the  un- 
surfaced  roads  of  the  country  is  possible  only  during  a  short  period  of  the 
year.  Houlton  therefore  remains  chiefly  important  as  a  railroad  shipping 
center. 


TOUR  1—  4.5  m. 


N.  from  Market  Sq.  on  North  St.  across  Meduxnekeag  River  Bridge. 

i.  The  Black  Hawk  Tavern  (L),  22  North  St.,  built  in  1813  and  now  a 
tourist  home,  was  erected  by  Samuel  Wormwood  for  Aaron  Putnam,  one 
of  the  first  settlers,  and  is  the  oldest  house  in  Houlton.  Constructed  of 
wood  cut  and  sawed  on  the  site  of  the  building,  the  house  was  walled  up 
with  brick  on  the  outside  in  an  attempt  to  make  it  bullet-proof.  In  the 
course  of  alterations  the  original  roof  was  replaced  by  one  of  much 
steeper  pitch  and  all  but  one  of  the  stone  fireplaces  that  were  formerly 
used  to  heat  each  room  are  closed  up.  The  first  county  court  was  held  in 
the  northeast  room  of  the  second  floor;  —  the  corner  that  was  occupied 
by  the  judge's  bench  is  still  marked  by  a  four-foot  wainscoting.  The  first 
county  jail  was  a  dungeon  in  the  basement  of  the  building;  there  was  no 
provision  made  for  ventilation,  and  the  rings  in  the  wall  to  which  prisoners 
were  chained  are  still  visible. 

Retrace  North  St.  to  Market  Sq.  R.  on  Bangor  St.;  R.  from  Bangor  St.  on 
Florence  St. 


1 

HOULTON.  POINTS  OF  INTEREST 


1.  Black  Hawk  Tavern 

2.  Potato  Warehouses 

3.  Houlton  Grange 
4    Peabody  House 


5.  Ricker  Classical  Institute 

6.  Garrison  Hill 

7.  Gary's  Mills 

8.  Transatlantic  Radiophone  Station 


154  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

2.  Potato  Warehouses,  in  the  Bangor  and  Aroostook  railroad  yards,  provide 
storage  for  thousands  of  barrels  of  potatoes.    In  these  modern,  well- 
equipped  buildings  potatoes  are  graded  and  sorted  in  preparation  for 
shipping  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  annual  shipment  is  nearly  2,000,- 
ooo  bushels. 

L.  from  Florence  St.  on  Potato  Row  to  Bangor  St.;  L.  from  Bangor  St.  to 
Grange  St. 

3.  Houlton  Grange,  with  a  store  at  Green  and  Grange  Sts.,  is  second  in 
size  to  Webster  Grange,  Rochester,  New  York,  the  largest  in  the  world. 
The  Houlton  Grange  originated  a  system  of  mutual  fire  insurance  among 
its  members,  a  practice  widely  adopted  because  of  low  rates  and  proved 
success.   The  extensive  operations  of  the  Houlton  Grange  also  include  a 
flour  mill  and  warehouses. 

L.  from  Grange  St.  on  Green  St.;  R.  from  Green  St.  on  Court  St. 

4.  The  Peabody  House  (private),  98  Court  St.,  built  by  Amos  Pearce 
about  1826,  is  the  oldest  Houlton  residence  the  original  exterior  of  which 
remains  unchanged.   A  feature  that  distinguishes  it  from  its  neighbors 
is  the  absence  of  eaves.  In  its  front  hall  under  the  narrow,  winding  stair  a 
smokehouse,  complete  with  hooks,  stepladder,  and  other  meat-curing 
equipment,  is  intact.  The  town's  original  post  office  occupied  the  room  to 
the  right  of  the  hall.  Many  of  the  original  fireplaces  are  retained,  and  the 
rooms  are  furnished  with  antique  furniture,  old  dishes,  candlesticks,  etc., 
belonging  to  the  Peabody  family,  the  present  owners. 

Retrace  Court  St.  to  Military  St.;  R.  on  Military  St. 

5.  Richer  Classical  Institute  (1847)  (open  during  school  year),  Military  and 
High  Sts.,  is  the  oldest  secondary  institution  in  Aroostook  County.   A 
privately  endowed  co-educational  preparatory  school  and  junior  college, 
it  is  affiliated  with  Colby  College  and  the  Maine  Baptist  Convention. 


OTHER  POINTS  OF  INTEREST 


6.  Garrison  Hill,  a  583-foot  elevation  i  mile  east  of  the  town  on  Military 
St.,  is  the  site  of  the  Hancock  Barracks  (1828-47).   Although  all  traces 
have  disappeared  of  the  military  post's  barracks  and  other  buildings,  the 
former  parade  grounds  provide  an  excellent  vantage  point  for  a  panoramic 
view  of  the  town  and  surrounding  country. 

7.  Gary's  Mills,  2  miles  west  of  Houlton  on  State  166  (Bangor  St.),  is  a 
small  settlement  founded  by  Shepard  Cary,  the  son  of  one  of  the  early 
prominent  citizens  of  the  town.  Cary  was  largely  instrumental  in  opening 
much  of  the  Aroostook  timberland,  since  he  actively  engaged  in  develop- 
ing large-scale  operations  on  the  Allagash  and  St.  John  Rivers.   Besides 
conducting  numerous  local  business  enterprises,  he  was  highly  influential 
in  county  and  State  affairs,  serving  term  after  term  in  the  Maine  House 
and  Senate,  and  as  Congressman  in  1844.  The  Houlton  library  is  named 
in  his  honor. 

8.  The  Transatlantic  Radiophone  Receiving  Station,  3  m.  (see  Tour  4). 


LEWISTON-AUBURN 


Cities:  Lewiston,  alt.  196,  pop.  34,948,  sett.  1770,  inc.  city  1861;  Auburn,  alt. 
210,  pop.  18,571,  sett.  1786,  inc.  shire  town  1854,  city  1869. 

Railroad  Stations:  Bates  St.,  Lewiston,  and  Main  St.,  Auburn,  for  M.C.  R.R.; 
Lincoln  St.,  Lewiston,  for  Canadian  National  Rys. 

Bus  Stations:  204  Main  St.,  Lewiston,  and  240  Court  St.,  Auburn,  for  M.C. 

Transportation  Co.,  Blue  Line,  and  Maine-New  Hampshire  Stages;  169  Main 

St.,  Lewiston,  and  Elm  House,  Auburn,  for  Affiliated  Greyhound  Lines. 

Airport:  5  m.  SW.  on  State  121  and  Hotel  Rd. 

Accommodations:  Eight  hotels. 

Swimming:  Taylor  Pond,  Auburn;  Sabattus  Lake,  Lewiston. 

Annual  Events:  Maine  State  Fair,  ist  week  in  Sept.;  numerous  winter  sports 
events. 

LEWISTON  and  AUBURN,  known  as  the  'Twin  Cities/  face  each 
other  across  the  Androscoggin  River  at  Lewiston  Falls.  Divided  by  the 
river,  each  city  is  a  distinct  municipality,  yet  the  two  are  closely  inter- 
woven socially  and  industrially.  Both  are  justified  in  claiming  to  be  the 
industrial  heart  of  Maine.  Lewiston,  the  second  largest  city  in  the  State 
and  primarily  a  textile  city,  is  also  the  seat  of  Bates  College,  while 
Auburn,  Maine's  fourth  largest  city,  is  an  important  shoe  manufacturing 
center  and  the  Androscoggin  County  seat.  Both  cities  were  the  objects 
of  nation-wide  attention  during  the  shoe  strike  in  the  spring  of  1937,  in- 
volving, as  it  did,  a  test  of  the  National  Labor  Relations  Act. 

The  general  traffic  bridges  and  two  railroad  bridges  join  Lewiston,  on  the 
east  bank,  with  Auburn  on  the  west.  Strong  as  the  bridges  have  been  in 
binding  Lewiston  and  Auburn  together,  there  have  been  occasions  when 
they  have,  in  a  sense,  separated  rather  than  joined  the  two  cities.  Many 
residents  of  one  city  work  in  the  other,  and  during  the  strike  of  1937,  the 
bridges  became  barriers  guarded  by  militia  and  police  who  sought  to 
prevent  strikers  of  one  city  from  entering  the  other.  Again,  the  bridges 
have  often  been  the  scene  of  pitched  battles,  usually  induced  by  high- 
school  rivalry,  between  the  youth  of  the  two  cities.  Relationships  between 
the  two  cities  were  severed  during  the  flood  of  March,  1936,  which  ripped 
out  South  Bridge  and  made  North  Bridge  impassable. 

Auburn  conveys  the  impression  of  being  more  of  a  residential  city  than 
Lewiston.  Auburn  residences  seem  more  remote  from  the  industrial  areas. 
New  Auburn,  that  section  of  the  city  lying  south  of  the  Little  Andros- 
coggin and  largely  inhabited  by  workers  in  the  cities'  mills,  is  a  com- 
paratively new  development,  almost  a  distinct  village  in  itself.  This 
section  of  the  city  lost  250  buildings  through  fire  in  1933,  and  was  entirely 
isolated  for  two  and  a  half  days  during  the  floods  in  March,  1936.  Ten- 


156  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

ement  districts  are  concentrated  near  the  great  textile  mills  in  Lewiston; 
one  such  district  near  the  riverfront,  is  known  as  Little  Canada  because  of 
its  predominating  French-Canadian  population. 

Lewiston  may  well  be  called  a  bi-lingual  city,  since  practically  every 
business  finds  it  necessary  to  employ  at  least  one  French-speaking  person. 
The  present  population  of  Lewiston  is  between  65  and  70  per  cent 
French- American  origin,  while  Auburn  has  only  25  per  cent  of  this 
nationality,  largely  concentrated  in  New  Auburn.  This  large  French- 
speaking  population  supplies  most  of  the  workers  for  the  textile  mills  and 
shoe  factories.  Lewiston  has  a  charter  form  of  government,  with  mayor 
and  seven  aldermen.  In  recent  years  these  municipal  officers  have 
usually  been  of  French-Canadian  origin.  The  city's  parochial  school 
system  is  almost  as  extensive  as  the  public  school  system. 

Lewiston  is  a  strongly  Democratic  city  in  a  Republican  State.  In  1932, 
Louis  Jefferson  Brann,  a  resident  of  Lewiston,  was  elected  Governor  of 
Maine  on  the  Democratic  ticket.  Auburn,  on  the  other  hand,  is  conserva- 
tive Republican.  In  the  1936  presidential  election,  when  Maine  was  one 
of  the  two  States  in  the  nation  to  vote  Republican,  an  Auburn  native, 
Wallace  H.  White,  Republican,  defeated  Governor  Brann  for  election  to 
the  U.S.  Senate. 

The  two  cities'  combined  industrial  establishments  number  more  than 
one  hundred  and  employ  in  the  neighborhood  of  14,000  persons.  Auburn, 
with  nearly  a  score  of  shoe  manufactories,  leads  in  this  industry  that  com- 
mands more  manufacturing  establishments  than  any  other  in  Maine. 
Lewiston,  a  textile  center  manufacturing  cotton,  woolen  and  rayon  goods, 
also  has  several  shoe  factories. 

The  Twin  Cities,  situated  in  a  rich  agricultural  district,  are  the  trading 
center  for  thousands  of  people,  and  are  important  distributing  points  for 
the  State's  industrial  and  commercial  life,  agriculture  and  dairy  pro- 
duction. 

The  original  patentees  of  the  present  site  of  Lewiston  and  Auburn  re- 
ceived what  became  Bakerstown  Township  in  New  Hampshire  in  1736, 
but  not  until  1768,  owing  to  technical  difficulties  of  location,  were  the 
agents  of  the  proprietors  granted  the  tract  of  land  along  the  Androscoggin. 
Terms  of  the  grant  were  that  fifty  families  in  as  many  houses  should 
settle  upon  the  claim  before  1774,  'the  houses  to  be  16'  X  20'  with  a 
seven  foot  stud  and  the  name  of  the  town,  Lewistown.'  It  is  doubtful  if 
the  specifications  were  complied  with,  since  the  early  growth  of  the  two 
cities  was  unusually  slow  and  the  first  Lewiston  settler,  Paul  Hildreth  of 
Dracut,  Massachusetts,  did  not  build  his  log  cabin  within  the  present  city 
limits  until  1770.  The  'Plantation  of  Lewiston  and  Gore'  ('gore/  a 
triangular  piece  of  land  left  when  surveyors'  calculations  do  not  result  in 
an  even  division  of  land  into  townships)  was  incorporated  in  1795. 
Auburn  grew  up  even  more  slowly.  The  mid-nineteenth  century  was 
almost  at  hand  before  the  town  separated  from  Minot,  1842;  its  present 
land  area  of  about  sixty-five  square  miles  was  attained  hi  1867,  when 


Lewiston- Auburn  157 


Auburn,  already  shire  town,  annexed  Danville.  Auburn's  name  sup- 
posedly was  taken  from  the  Auburn  of  Oliver  Goldsmith's  poem  'The 
Deserted  Village.' 

The  first  woolen  mill  in  Lewiston  had  begun  operations  in  1819,  preceding 
the  first  cotton  manufactory  by  twenty-five  years.  Exploitation  of  the 
water-power  of  the  Androscoggin  River  began  with  the  formation  of  the 
Androscoggin  Falls,  Dam  Locks,  and  Canal  Company  in  1836.  This 
enterprise  was  reorganized  six  years  later  as  the  Lewiston  Water-Power 
Company  —  for  the  purpose  of  employing  available  water-power  for 
textile  manufacture.  In  the  fifties  the  remarkable  water-power  advantages 
of  this  location  attracted  Boston  business  men  engaged  in  similar  in- 
dustries. Other  companies  were  established  here  within  the  succeeding 
thirty  years.  They  purchased  much  land  in  this  region,  took  over  all  the 
chartered  rights  and  privileges  of  the  existing  power  companies,  con- 
structed a  system  of  canals  for  distribution  of  water-power,  and  in  time 
built  the  several  large  textile  mills  that  form  the  industrial  background  of 
Lewiston.  These  mills,  granted  unusually  generous  charter  rights  for  the 
purchase  of  power,  own  almost  exclusively  the  power  rights  on  this 
section  of  the  river  through  control  of  the  Union  Water-Power  Company. 

Auburn  lays  claim  to  being  the  home  of  the  shoe  industry  in  Maine  be- 
cause it  was  still  a  part  of  Minot  when  the  Minot  Shoe  Company  was 
incorporated  in  1835,  in  what  is  now  West  Auburn.  Shoe  manufacturing 
in  the  present  city  limits  was  begun  a  year  later  by  two  brothers,  Martin 
and  Moses  Crafts,  and  within  a  few  years  the  city  had  definitely  assumed 
its  position  as  a  leader  in  the  industry.  Early  shoe  manufacturing  was 
crudely  conducted  and  the  products  were  coarse,  heavy  articles.  Work 
was  cut  out  in  a  small  room  or  shop  by  the  manufacturer  himself,  some- 
times aided  by  a  cutter  or  two,  and  then  sent  to  dwellings  in  the  commu- 
nity where  the  men  and  women  finished  the  shoes.  All  work  was  done  by 
hand  until  about  1850  when  the  first  labor-saving  machine  was  intro- 
duced. Fifteen  years  later,  shoe  manufacturing  was  a  $1,000,000  in- 
dustry, and  the  factory  system  was  generally  adopted  by  1870  when  the 
city's  twenty-one  factories  produced  more  than  2,000,000  pairs  of  shoes 
annually.  In  1917,  one  Auburn  factory  was  making  75  per  cent  of  the 
world's  entire  supply  of  white  canvas  shoes.  Under  normal  conditions,  the 
shoe  factories  now  produce  between  60,000  and  70,000  pairs  of  shoes  and 
moccasins  daily,  and  have  a  total  weekly  payroll  of  more  than  $100,000. 
Including  the  shoe  factories,  there  are  about  fifty  industrial  plants  in 
Auburn  with  an  annual  production  value  of  more  than  $22,000,000. 

Secluded  from  the  city's  busy  industrial  life,  yet  having  its  influences 
upon  Lewiston's  social  and  civic  activities,  Bates  College  was  incorpo- 
rated as  the  Maine  State  Seminary  in  1856.  Originally  the  Parsonfield 
Academy,  Parsonfield,  the  college  was  founded  by  Free  Baptists  under  a 
charter  providing  that  it  should  be  free  from  denominational  control,  yet 
that  education  and  religion  should  be  inseparably  connected.  The  loca- 
tion of  the  college  was  disputed  by  other  towns,  but  Lewiston's  central 
location  and  subscriptions  by  local  business  men  towards  the  building 


158  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

fund  won  the  distinction.  A  college  course  was  instituted  in  1863  and  the 
seminary's  name  was  changed  in  honor  of  Benjamin  E.  Bates  of  Boston, 
who  gave  $200,000  to  the  college.  Bates  was  one  of  the  first  New  England 
colleges  to  become  co-educational,  and  in  1907  it  became  one  of  the 
associated  colleges  in  the  Carnegie  Foundation  for  the  Advancement  of 
Teaching.  Bates  initiated  international  debating  and  has  won  victories 
from  some  of  the  largest  colleges  in  this  country  and  abroad.  Out  of 
approximately  6000  alumni  (1936),  nearly  half  have  entered  the  teaching 
profession;  Bates  is  first  among  New  England  colleges  in  the  number  of  its 
graduates  who  are  principals  of  New  England  secondary  schools. 


POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

LEWISTON 

Tour  1  —  5.4  m. 


Union  Square,  a  broadening  of  the  main  thoroughfare  from  below  the 
junction  of  Main  and  Sabattus  Sts.  to  Lisbon  St.,  is  the  commercial 
heart  of  Lewiston,  and  the  natural  distribution  center  for  the  bulk  of  high- 
way transportation  in  and  out  of  the  Twin  Cities.  Streets  radiating  from 
the  square  lead  to  the  business  and  industrial  sections  of  the  city.  In  the 
days  of  horse-drawn  vehicles,  Union  Square  was  Haymarket  Square,  a 
busy  mart  for  farmers  with  their  hay,  grain,  and  farm  produce  from  out- 
lying agricultural  districts. 

S.  from  Union  Sq.;  L.  on  Canal  St. 

1.  The  Canal  (R),  supplying  several  of  the  large  mills  with  power,  waa 
begun  in  1845  by  the  Lewiston  Water-Power  Company  and  completed  in 
1863-64.  Running  from  the  river  above  the  dam  the  canal,  62  feet  wide 
and  less  than  a  mile  long,  seems  like  a  quiet  stream  flowing  through  the 
heart  of  the  city. 

2.  The  Buildings  of  the  Bates  Manufacturing  Company  (permit  at  office] 
(R),  Canal  St.,  largest  local  textile  mill,  are  across  the  canal.  The  mill 
manufactures  cotton  and  rayon  goods  exclusively.    Since  the  recent 
introduction  of  machinery  for  the  making  of  candlewick  spreads  the  mill 
has  specialized  in  their  manufacture. 

3.  Boarding  Blocks  (private)  (L),  Canal  St.,  opp.  the  Bates  Mill,  are  re- 
minders of  an  earlier  industrial  period.  These  three-story,  brick  structures 
were  built  by  the  company  for  its  employees,  following  a  practice  common 
among  industrial  establishments  in  the  last  century.  Country  girls,  eager 
to  get  work  in  the  mills  though  it  meant  working  long  hours  for  small 
pay,  came  to  the  city  and  created  a  demand  for  suitable  lodging  facilities. 
Mill  owners  erected  these  *  boarding  blocks,'  dividing  them  into  tenements 
for  groups  of  15  or  20  girls,  and  let  them  to  'boarding  mistresses.'  Girls 
paid  $2  a  week  for  board  and  room  and,  under  the  maternal  eye  of  the 


Lewiston-Auburn  159 


boarding  mistresses,  the  blocks  were  conducted  as  strictly  as  a  girls' 
school.  The  blocks,  occupied  by  millworkers'  families,  are  the  property  of 
the  mill. 

4.  The  Androscoggin  Mill  (permit  at  office),  manufacturing  cotton  and 
rayon,  is  (R)  at  the  junction  of  Lisbon  and  Canal  Sts. 

5.  The  Lewiston  Bleachery  and  Dye  Works  (permit  at  office)  (L),  Canal  and 
Lisbon  Sts.,  carries  on  the  bleaching  and  dyeing  processes  for  the  Pep- 
perell  and  Lady  Pepperell  products  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a). 

L.  from  Canal  St.  on  Lisbon  St.;  R.  from  Lisbon  St.  on  Ash  St. 

6.  St.  Pierre  et  St.  Paul,  Roman  Catholic  Church,  NW.  cor.  Ash  and 
Bartlett  Sts.,  is  one  of  the  most  imposing  buildings  in  the  two  cities. 
Designed  by  T.  J.  O'Connell,  Boston,  the  church  was  erected  over  a 
period  of  years,  1906-36,  to  administer  to  the  largest  French  parish  in 
Lewiston,  under  the  Society  of  Dominican  Fathers.  Of  modified  French 
Gothic  design,  the  principal  facade  with  its  two  pinnacled  towers  suggests 
the  i^th-century  ecclesiastical  architecture  of  Provence.  The  mass  of  the 
building  is  constructed  of  Maine  granite.   The  pews  and  interior  wood- 
work are  of  oak.  The  floors  are  tiled  and  the  walls  of  the  sanctuary  and 
rectory  are  adorned  with  traceried  panels.   There  is  a  choir  gallery  and 
organ  over  the  narthex.   The  church  auditorium  with  the  transept  gal- 
leries seats  2100.  The  cost  of  the  completed  building  was  approximately 
$1,000,000. 

L.  from  Ash  St.  on  Bartlett  St.;  R.  from  Bartlett  St.  on  College  St. 

7.  Bates  College  (open),  Campus  Ave.,  College,  and  contiguous  streets, 
housed  in  26  buildings,  spreads  over  75  level  acres  away  from  the  center  of 
the  city.   The  lawns,  gardens,  elms,  and  maples  of  the  campus  form  an 
appropriate  setting  for  the  ivy-clad  buildings. 

A  path  from  the  corner  of  College  St.  and  Campus  Ave.  leads  to  the 
attractive  English  Gothic  Chapel,  while  other  paths  from  the  rear  of 
Cheney  House  and  Rand  Hall,  women's  dormitories,  across  College  St. 
lead  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  David,  commanding  panoramas  of  Bates, 
Lewiston-Auburn,  and  the  White  Mountains  more  than  50  miles  to  the 
west. 

Hathorn  Hall,  College  St.  (R)  is  the  oldest  campus  building.  Erected  in 
1855,  it  contains  the  Bates  Little  Theater  and  several  recitation  rooms. 


LEWISTON-AUBURN.  POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  The  Canal  7.  Bates  CoUege 

2.  Bates  Manufacturing  Company          8.  Lewiston  Armory 

3.  Boarding  Blocks  9.  Lewiston  Falls  and  Dam 

4.  Androscoggin  Mill  10.  Laurel  Hill 

5.  Lewiston  Bleachery  and  Dye  n.  Androscoggin  County  Court  House 

Works  12.  Goff  Hill 

6.  St.  Pierre  et  St.  Paul 


1 62  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

Carnegie  Science  Building,  rear  of  Hathorn  Hall,  was  made  possible  t>y  a 
Carnegie  endowment  in  1908.  Devoted  to  the  departments  of  biology, 
physics,  and  geology,  the  building  also  houses  the  Stanton  Museum,  be- 
queathed to  the  college  by  Prof.  Jonathan  Young  Stanton,  one  of  the  early 
instructors.  The  museum  contains  a  valuable  ornithological  exhibit,  in- 
cluding many  rare  and  now  extinct  specimens  collected  in  the  United 
States  and  abroad.  A  collection  of  shells  and  an  herbarium  are  also  note- 
worthy. 

Cor  am  Library,  Campus  Ave.  opp.  Nichols  St.,  contains  more  than 
68,000  volumes,  besides  thousands  of  pamphlets,  documents,  and  the 
1800  volume  Isaac  L.  Rice  French  Library.  The  classic  columns  of  the 
library  form  an  appropriate  background  for  a  Greek  play  presented  each 
Commencement. 

The  athletic  field  was  named  for  Alonzo  Garcelon,  prominent  Lewiston 
citizen  and  Governor  of  Maine  in  1879. 
R.  from  Campus  Ave.  on  Central  Ave. 

8.  Lewiston  Armory,  Central  Ave.  and  Vale  St.,  constructed  of  light  brick 
with  limestone  trim,  somewhat  resembles  a  fortress  with  its  massive  walls 
and  corner  turrets.  The  auditorium  seating  6000  is  one  of  the  largest  in 
the  State.  The  building  is  used  by  the  State  for  military  drills,  as  well  as 
for  conventions  and  assemblies  in  the  city.   Troops  were  quartered  in  it 
for  nearly  a  month  in  the  spring  of  1937,  when  450  National  Guardsmen 
were  called  out  after  street  fighting  during  the  shoe  strike. 

R.  from  Central  Ave.  on  Sabattus  St.;  R.  from  Union  Sq.  on  Main  St. 

9.  Lewiston  Falls  and  Dam,  best  viewed  from  North  Bridge,  are  particu- 
larly spectacular  during  the  spring  freshets.   Known  at  various  times  as 
Lewis  Falls,  Twenty-Mile  Falls,  and  Harris  Falls,  an  Indian  legend  is 
associated  with  the  first  naming.  An  Indian  named  Lewis,  motivated  by 
too  much  strong  drink,  embarked  in  his  canoe  above  the  falls.   Losing 
control  of  himself,  the  canoe,  and  the  situation,  he  stood  in  the  boat  as  the 
water  was  about  to  engulf  him  and  shouted  that  the  falls  should  hence- 
forth be  known  as  Lewis  Falls.  The  granite  Dam,  increasing  the  40-foot 
natural  fall  of  the  river  by  more  than  10  feet,  was  built  in  1845,  diverting 
the  water  into  the  canal  which  was  begun  in  the  same  year.  Another  dam, 
a  crude  affair  of  timber,  had  been  built  in  1808. 


AUBURN 
Tour  2  —  2.2  m. 

S.  from  Court  St.  on  Main  St. 

10.  Laurel  Hill,  Main,  Laurel  Sts.,  Laurel  Ave.,  near  the  confluence  of 
the  Little  Androscoggin  and  Androscoggin  Rivers,  was  once  the  site  of  an 
Indian  village  and  burial  ground.  It  is  claimed  that  the  village  on  Laurel 
Hill  was  one  of  the  strongholds  of  the  Anasagunticooks,  the  Androscoggin 
Indian  tribe,  and  that  in  1690  the  village  and  Indian  fortifications  were 


Portland  163 


attacked  by  a  force  of  more  than  60  English  under  the  command  of  Maj. 

Benjamin  Church. 

Retrace  to  Court  St.;  L.  on  Court  St. 

11.  Androscoggin  County  Courthouse,  cor.  Court  and  Turner  Sts.,  was  the 
center  of  legal  controversies  in  March,  April,  May,  and  June,  1937,  during 
the  shoe  strikes.    Four  of  the  19  Lewiston- Auburn  shoe  manufacturers 
appeared  at  a  hearing  conducted  by  the  National  Labor  Relations  Board 
to  answer  complaints  by  the  Committee  for  Industrial  Organization, 
charging  them  with  unfair  labor  practices  under  the  Wagner  Act.   The 
rooms  of  the  Androscoggin  Historical  Society  (apply  Clerk  of  Courts,  2d 
floor),  in  the  courthouse,  contain  many  items  of  interest,  such  as  Indian 
implements  and  articles  pertaining  to  local  history.  A  Mural,  'Law,  the 
Defender  of  Civilization,'  by  Harry  Cochrane  of  Monmouth,  is  in  the 
courtroom. 

W.  on  Court  St. 

12.  From  Go/  Hill,  one  of  Auburn's  fine  residential  sections,  views 
of  the  two  cities,  the  Lewiston  Falls  and  the  river,  and  the  surround- 
ing countryside  can  be  obtained. 

Points  of  Interest  in  Environs: 

Deer  Rips  Dam,  3  m. ;  Gulf  Island  Dam,  4.4  m. ;  Mount  Apatite,  3  m. ; 
Lake  Auburn,  4  m.\  Auburn  Fish  Hatchery,  6  m.  (see  Tour  11) 


PORTLAND 


City:  Alt.  50,  pop.  70,810,  sett.  1633,  incorp.  town  1786,  State  Capital  1820-31, 

city  1832. 

Railroad  Stations:  Union  Station,  222  St.  John  St.,  for  B.  &  M.  and  M.C.  R.R.s; 

Grand  Trunk  Station,  cor.  Fore  and  India  Sts.,  for  Canadian  National  Rys. 

Bus  Stations:    159  High  St.,  for  B.  &  M.  and  M.  C.  Transportation  Co.s, 

Checker  Cab  (Manchester,  N.H.),  Maine-New  Hampshire  Stages,  Vermont 

Transit  Lines,  Portland-Conway,  N.H.  Stages;  600  Congress  St.,  for  Affiliated 

Greyhound  Lines;  593  Congress  St.,  for  Liberty  Motor  Tours. 

Airports:  Portland  City  Airport,  Westbrook  St.,  for  B.  &  M.  Airways,  Inc.; 

266  St.  John  St.,  for  B.  &  M. -Central  Vermont  Airways. 

Ferry  Service:  Casco  Bay  Lines,  Custom  House  Wharf;  Peaks  Island  Transpor- 
tation Co.,  Portland  Pier. 

Accommodations:  Sixteen  hotels. 

Information  Service:  Maine  Publicity  Bureau,  cor.  St.  John  and  Danforth  Sts. 

Swimming:  East  End  Bathing  Beach,  Eastern  Promenade. 

Fishing:  Casco  Bay,  salt  water. 

Yachting:  Portland  Yacht  Club,  Merchant's  Wharf. 


164  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

PORTLAND,  Maine's  largest  city  and  Cumberland  County  seat,  holds 
the  economic  and  commercial  key  to  a  vast  territory  extending  north  and 
east  to  the  Canadian  boundaries.  At  its  feet  lies  Casco  Bay  with  its  '365 
islands '  —  one  for  every  day  in  the  year  —  a  miniature  New  England 
Aegean.  Portland  itself  was  once  almost  an  island,  and  even  now  access 
to  the  city  without  passing  over  water  is  possible  only  from  the  northwest. 
The  metropolitan  area,  clustered  on  an  arm  of  land  shaped  like  a  saddle,  is 
almost  entirely  surrounded  by  the  waters  of  Casco  Bay,  Back  Cove,  and 
Fore  River.  Lying  between  the  two  elevations,  crowned  by  the  Eastern 
and  Western  Promenades  at  opposite  ends  of  the  city,  the  central  section 
of  the  city  extends  along  a  sagging  ridge  in  a  general  east-and-west 
direction.  Tall  elms  and  other  trees  line  the  streets  and  shade  the  city's 
twenty-six  parks.  Portland  owes  much  of  its  attractiveness  to  these  trees 
that  in  summer  hide  its  architectural  deficiencies  and  make  up  for  some  of 
the  ill  effects  of  overcrowding. 

Because  of  its  geographical  position  in  the  State,  Portland  is  a  shipping 
port  and  railroad  terminus  as  well  as  the  Gloucester  of  Maine.  Large 
ships  from  European  and  South  American  countries  and  the  Orient,  and 
smaller  coasting  vessels,  meet  in  its  harbor.  Three  railroads  enter  the  city. 
Maine's  highway  travel,  almost  without  exception,  touches  Portland 
before  spreading  fanwise  to  other  sections  of  the  State.  During  the  tourist 
season  the  city  is  the  hub  for  a  vast  resort  region,  and  by  air  and  water, 
rail  and  highway,  vacationists  pour  into  the  city,  and  then  by  a  dozen 
divergent  routes  make  their  way  to  summer  homes  and  playgrounds  to 
the  north  and  east.  At  the  city's  very  back  lies  Maine's  most  highly  con- 
centrated summer  resort  country.  And  because  Portland  is  the  chief  city 
of  Cumberland  County,  one  of  the  most  densely  populated  sections  of 
Maine,  it  is  also  of  considerable  political,  as  well  as  commercial,  strength. 

Its  history  has  little  to  distinguish  it  from  that  of  any  average  large 
American  city  except  perhaps  the  unusual  amount  of  travail  and  suffering 
that  have  gone  to  building  it  to  a  position  of  security.  It  has  risen  and 
fallen  again,  not  once,  but  three  times.  The  Indians  devastated  it;  as  a 
prelude  to  the  Revolution  the  British  burned  it;  and  in  1866,  the  ' great 
fire'  again  left  it  a  city  of  embers.  Its  first  years  were  marked  by  the 
struggles  over  conflicting  claims  for  the  land  on  which  it  grew  —  between 
England  and  France,  between  s^quatters  and  landlords,  between  individual 
citizens  and  great  corporations.  Then,  in  the  nineteenth  century  it 
achieved  great  importance  and  wealth.  That,  too,  is  all  of  the  past. 
Portland  today  lives  on  in  a  kind  of  somnolence  that  belies  its  past  great- 
ness and  its  present  real  activity  and  vitality. 

The  first  recorded  settlement  on  the  site  of  Portland  was  made  by 
Christopher  Levett,  'the  King's  Woodward  of  the  County  of  Somerset- 
shire in  New  England.'  Levett  built  a  stone  house  on  Hog  Island  or 
House  Island  (historians  have  not  agreed  on  the  site)  where  he  and  his 
company  spent  the  winter  of  1623-24.  In  the  spring  he  returned  to  Eng- 
land, apparently  with  the  intention  of  arousing  interest  in  forming  the 
city  of  York  at  a  place  he  called  Quack,  near  Casco,  presumably  the  place 


Portland  165 


where  Portland  stands.  He  left  his  house  garrisoned  with  ten  men.  There 
is  no  indication  that  he  ever  returned,  and  no  one  can  say  what  happened 
to  the  company  left  occupying  the  stone  house. 

The  next  settler  to  occupy  the  site  for  any  length  of  time  was  an  un- 
scrupulous trader  named  Walter  Bagnall,  called  'Great  Walt'  because 
of  his  size.  As  early  as  1628  Bagnall  was  living  on  the  Spurwink  River,  not 
far  from  Richmond's  Island,  in  a  hut  with  a  solitary  companion  known 
only  as  John  P.  Walt  exchanged  firewater  and  worthless  trinkets  with 
the  Indians  for  valuable  furs,  and  is  alleged  to  have  netted  a  profit  of  more 
than  £400  (a  considerable  sum  at  that  time)  in  less  than  three  years, 
before  he  was  killed  in  1631  by  the  Indian  chief  Squidraset  and  other  dis- 
satisfied customers  who  had  already  begun  to  chafe  under  the  '  beneficent ' 
practices  of  traders  of  his  type. 

About  this  time  George  Cleeve  and  his  family  established  themselves  on 
the  land  now  occupied  by  the  city  proper,  which  was  known  successively 
thereafter  as  Machigonne,  Indigreat,  Elbow,  the  Neck,  Casco,  and  Fal- 
mouth;  the  name  Portland,  of  English  origin,  was  first  given  to  Portland 
Head  on  Cape  Elizabeth  and  to  the  sound  between  the  Head  and  Cush- 
ing's  Island.  In  1630  a  body  of  religious  fanatics  called  the  Husbandmen 
was  granted  a  patent  of  land  at  Sagadahoc,  that  came  to  be  known  a? 
'the  patent  of  the  Plough/  after  their  ship  the  'Plough.'  They  arrived  ii? 
1631,  but  dissatisfied  with  the  location  given  them,  scattered  to  other 
Colonies.  Cleeve,  ambitious  and  unscrupulous,  ingratiated  himself  with 
Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges,  proprietor  of  Maine  (then  called  New  Somerset- 
shire) from  1635,  and  was  appointed  Deputy  Governor  of  the  Province. 
He  was  ousted  from  that  office  when  it  was  shown  he  had  acquired  it  by 
making  false  accusations  against  Gorges's  previous  deputies.  Still 
determined  to  control  the  region,  Cleeve  proceeded  to  England,  where  he 
found  a  patron  in  a  Colonel  Rigby,  who  purchased  the  patent  of  the 
Plough,  named  the  estate  the  Province  of  Lygonia,  and  put  Cleeve  in 
charge  as  deputy  president.  Cleeve  returned  and  summoned  his  first 
court  in  Casco,  1643-44,  where  he  proclaimed  his  authority  over  the  land 
'from  Sackadehock  to  Cape  Porpus,  being  about  thirteen  leagues  in 
'length.' 

There  ensued  a  tedious  quarrel  between  Gorges's  agents  and  Cleeve  over 
the  proprietorship  of  the  Colonies  of  the  Casco  Bay  region ;  it  was  taken  to 
courts  first  in  Boston  and  then  in  England.  Finally  Rigby 's  claims  were 
upheld,  and  for  a  while  Cleeve  enjoyed  virtual  dictatorship  of  the 
Province  of  Lygonia.  Rigby  died  in  1650  and  Massachusetts  assumed 
control  of  the  whole  region  in  1652.  Cleeve  kept  up  an  empty  show  of 
authority  until  1658,  when  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  Maine  Colonies  sub- 
mitted to  the  government  of  Massachusetts.  Ruined  by  his  protracted 
litigations,  he  died  in  poverty. 

All  through  this  period  and  for  some  time  to  come  the  Casco  region  con- 
tinued as  the  center  of  unhappy  warfare  between  '  selfish  promoters  and 
contentious  claimants.'  'No  one,'  wrote  an  early  historian,  '  could  be  sure 
of  reaping  the  rewards  of  his  labors  and  industry.' 


1 66  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

Nevertheless,  by  1675,  Falmouth  (as  it  was  then  called)  had  attained  a 
certain  real  prosperity.  There  was  a  meeting-house  on  The  Neck  and 
more  than  four  hundred  settled  inhabitants  were  within  a  short  radius. 
But  in  that  year  Indian  wars  broke  out,  and  in  1676  several  attacks  were 
made  on  the  town  itself.  In  a  final  ruthless  assault  that  summer  the 
Indians  advanced  on  The  Neck,  killing  and  burning  as  they  came,  as  far  as 
the  easterly  foot  of  High  Street,  where  the  colonists  made  their  stand. 
Many  of  the  inhabitants  finally  took  to  their  boats,  some  of  them  escaping 
to  Salem,  Massachusetts,  where  they  were  admitted  as  citizens.  Others 
retreated  to  Jewell  Island,  far  out  in  the  bay,  and  there  threw  up  bulwarks 
against  attack.  An  early  historian  wrote:  'The  doom  of  Falmouth  was 
pronounced  at  once ...  it  was  crushed  by  a  single  blow.3 

No  permanent  settlement  was  effected  after  this  until  1716,  when  Samuel 
Moody  received  permission  from  the  Massachusetts  Government  to  take 
up  land  at  Falmouth.  At  his  own  expense  he  built  a  fort  and  persuaded 
others  to  join  him  there.  Three  garrisons  were  established  in  the  township, 
but  Falmouth  was  never  again  molested  by  the  Indians  or  by  the  French. 
The  town  entered  upon  a  harmonious  development  that  continued  un- 
checked for  more  than  fifty  years.  It  acquired  outstanding  commercial 
importance,  exporting  lumber,  fish,  and  furs  in  exchange  for  sugar  and 
molasses  from  English,  French,  and  Spanish  ports  of  the  West  Indies  and 
the  Caribbean.  Shipbuilding  grew  apace  with  commerce,  and  the  export 
of  masts  for  the  British  navy  and  merchant  marine  was  a  lucrative  busi- 
ness. It  was  reported  in  1765  that '  the  ships  loading  here  are  a  wonderful 
benefit;  they  take  off  vast  quantities  of  timber;  masts,  car-raters,  boards, 

etc '    By  1770  Falmouth  was  as  prosperous  as  any  of  the  Colonial 

cities;  her  citizens  were  sturdy,  independent,  and  comparatively  well-to- 
do. 

Forebodings  of  the  impending  war  were  felt  as  strongly  here  as  anywhere : 
strong  resentment  of  the  Stamp  Act  was  manifest;  and  when  Boston  was 
closed  by  the  Port  Bill,  Falmouth  sent  liberal  supplies  to  the  Massachu- 
setts city.  In  May,  1775,  a  Tory  sea  captain,  attempting  to  outfit  a  vessel 
for  shipping  masts,  was  restrained  by  a  local  committee  which  asserted 
that  masts  for  the  British  navy  were  in  the  nature  of  military  supplies  and 
therefore  could  not  legally  be  exported.  The  captain  appealed  to  Captain 
Henry  Mowatt  of  the  British  sloop-of-war  'Canceau,'  which  shortly 
thereafter  dropped  anchor  in  Falmouth  Harbor.  Falmouth,  strongly 
Whig,  became  the  scene  of  anti-British  demonstrations;  revolutionary 
sentiments  were  expressed  everywhere.  Companies  of  Militiamen, 
responding  to  the  call  from  the  Continental  Congress,  were  assembled 
about  town.  In  the  midst  of  the  excitement,  Captain  Mowatt,  who  was 
strolling  about  Munjoy  Hill  with  his  surgeon,  was  seized  by  a  company 
of  Colonials  who  maintained  that  he  was  spying  on  their  activities.  The 
British  officer  was  released  on  parole,  after  giving  his  word  to  return  when 
requested. 

He  did  return,  though  not  upon  request.  October  16,  1775,  four  British 
naval  vessels  and  a  store  ship  hove  to  off  Portland.  Mowatt,  in  command 


Portland  167 


of  this  small  fleet,  sent  word  to  the  people  of  Falmouth  'to  remove  all 
human  specie  from  the  town'  within  two  hours.  Frantic  parleys  and 
efforts  to  arrive  at  terms  of  surrender  were  of  no  avail.  It  must  be  said  for 
Mowatt,  however,  that  he  would  have  spared  the  city  had  the  inhabitants 
agreed  to  surrender  all  large  and  small  arms  in  their  possession.  But  this 
ignominy  the  people  courageously  spurned.  Accordingly,  at  9.30  on  the 
morning  of  October  18,  Mowatt's  ships  opened  fire  on  Falmouth.  Dis- 
charge after  discharge  of  bombs,  grapeshot,  and  cannon  balls  rained  upon 
the  defenseless  town.  Since  most  of  the  buildings  were  upon  the  level  land 
between  India  and  Center  Streets,  they  were  within  easy  range.  The 
bombardment  continued  throughout  the  day,  and  at  night  parties  were 
landed  to  apply  torches  to  whatever  structures  had  escaped  the  shots.  Four 
hundred  and  fourteen  buildings,  including  a  new  courthouse,  the  town 
house,  and  the  customs  house,  with  many  barns  and  warehouses,  went  up 
in  the  general  conflagration.  Nearly  two  thousand  persons  were  left 
homeless,  although  none  were  killed  and  only  one  was  wounded.  Some 
members  of  the  British  landing  parties  were  believed  to  have  been  shot 
down  by  the  citizenry. 

One  prominent  building  that  escaped  the  flames~was  the  Widow  Grele's 
tavern,  a  story-and-a-half  structure  in  the  heart  of  the  city.  The  doughty 
widow  refused  to  leave  her  house;  whenever  flames  burst  forth  around  it, 
she  rushed  out  and  extinguished  them  with  pails  of  water.  Since  most  of 
the  public  buildings  had  been  leveled  to  the  ground,  in  the  days  that 
followed  one  of  the  rooms  of  the  widow's  tavern  was  used  for  court 
sessions.  Here  county  court  was  held  for  the  duration  of  the  Revolution- 
ary War,  and  until  1787,  when  a  new  courthouse  was  built.  The  Widow 
Grele's  tavern  was  a  Portland  landmark  even  into  the  present  century. 

A  month  after  the  Mowatt  bombardment  a  visitor  reported  '  no  lodging, 
eating,  or  housekeeping  in  Falmouth.'  The  British  came  and  went,  but 
they  found  little  about  the  ruined  wharves  and  buildings  to  make  occupa- 
tion desirable.  The  town,  though,  was  never  abandoned  because  it  was  still 
a  central  point  for  the  assembling  of  military  recruits,  and  in  1777  there 
were  upwards  of  seven  hundred  people  living  here  under  conditions  of 
extreme  hardship. 

Cheerless  predictions  as  to  Falmouth's  future  after  bombardment,  the 
Revolution,  and  the  period  of  post-war  stagnation  proved  groundless. 
The  town,  which  took  the  name  of  Portland  on  July  4,  1786,  was  once 
more  the  scene  of  great  commercial  activity.  Business  began  to  expand 
in  volume  and  variety,  forts  were  constructed,  bridges  were  built  con- 
necting the  city  with  the  surrounding  country,  and  Maine's  first  banking 
house,  the  Portland  bank,  was  established  with  a  capital  of  $100,000.  The 
Falmouth  Gazette,  Maine's  first  newspaper,  appeared  in  1785.  Commerce 
with  England,  even  more  profitable  than  before,  was  restored,  and  the 
French  Revolution  gave  new  impetus  to  American  shipping.  In  1800, 
Portland's  population  was  3704,  an  unusually  large  number  when  it  is 
considered  that  97  per  cent  of  the  Nation's  total  population  at  this  time 
was  rural.  When,  in  1803,  Commodore  Edward  Preble  subdued  the  Bar- 


1 68  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

bary  Coast  pirates,  making  shipping  safe  in  the  Mediterranean,  Portland, 
the  commodore's  home,  basked  in  the  acclaim  that  the  world  accorded 
him.  The  rise  of  Napoleon  in  France  and  the  subsequent  European 
conflicts  furnished  valuable  markets  for  Yankee  enterprise,  and  Portland 
especially  profited  in  the  subsequent  shipbuilding  boom. 

The  newfound  prosperity  experienced  sudden  decline  in  1807  with  the 
two-year  Jeffersonian  Embargo.  The  Portland  waterfront  was  deserted; 
ships  literally  rotted  at  their  moorings;  hundreds  of  citizens  lined  up  each 
day  in  Market  Square  to  be  fed  from  public  soup  kettles.  From  1807  to 
1809,  the  city  experienced  a  depression  more  profound  than  any  during  its 
subsequent  history. 

Recovery  came  suddenly.  The  War  of  1812  provided  new  stimuli  for 
commerce  and  industry,  and  shipyards  again  hummed  with  activity. 
Fortunes  were  made  overnight  in  privateering.  The  whole  town  assumed 
a  new  aspect  of  liveliness  and  enterprise.  The  war  had  a  further  beneficial 
effect  in  substituting  land  trade  where  traffic  by  sea  was  sometimes 
hindered  or  halted  altogether.  As  men  turned  from  the  sea,  land  was 
cleared  farther  and  farther  inland,  and  new  industries  came  into  being. 
Portland  became  the  metropolis  for  the  new  State  developing  at  its  back. 
It  was  to  be  expected  that  the  year  after  Federalist  Massachusetts  voted 
the  separation  of  Democratic-Republican  Maine,  Portland  would  be 
selected  as  capital  for  the  new  State.  It  held  this  position  until  1831. 

The  city's  progress  through  the  nineteenth  century  was  rapid.  Chartered 
as  a  city  in  1832,  it  continued  to  expand  as  the  development  of  steam- 
driven  vessels  and  trains  increased  transportation  facilities.  The  first 
steamboat  to  ply  Casco  waters  was  a  ferry,  the  'Kennebec,'  nicknamed 
the  'Groundhog,'  which  made  her  maiden  trip  across  the  harbor  in  1822. 
Since  the  craft  lacked  both  sail  and  oars,  the  passengers  sometimes  had  to 
turn  the  paddlewheel  themselves  by  treading  on  its  blades  when  the  faulty 
engines  balked  against  the  tide.  The  first  railroad  line,  from  Portland  to 
Portsmouth,  was  opened  in  1842.  Other  railroad  and  steamboat  lines 
were  soon  established,  and  in  1853  the  'Sarah  Sands,'  first  trans-Atlantic 
steamer  to  dock  at  this  port,  made  a  safe  crossing  from  Liverpool. 

To  the  Civil  War,  Portland  contributed  one-fifth  of  its  total  population, 
at  that  time  25,000.  Maine  was  strongly  pro-abolition,  and  Portland  was 
a  center  of  considerable  agitation.  During  the  war  a  young  Confederate 
naval  officer  conceived  a  plan  for  entering  Portland  Harbor ;  his  goal  was 
the  destruction  of  two  gunboats  lying  there  and  the  capture  of  a  steamer 
in  which  to  continue  his  already  extensive  depredations  on  the  sea.  Dis- 
guising his  men  as  fishermen,  he  had  no  trouble  bringing  his  small  vessel 
past  the  forts  and  anchoring  it  near  the  wharves.  That  night  he  boarded 
and  took  the  revenue  cutter  'Caleb  Gushing'  and  sailed  her  out  of  the 
harbor.  The  following  morning  the  collector  of  customs  and  the  mayor 
with  a  crew  of  volunteers  manned  the  Boston  steamer  'Forest  City,' 
another  crew  took  the  New  York  boat  'Chesapeake,'  and  set  out  in 
pursuit,  eventually  overtaking  the  'Gushing.'  The  Southerners  aboard 
her,  failing  to  find  any  ammunition,  set  her  afire  and  were  taken  as  pris- 
oners from  the  lifeboats. 


Portland  169 


The  war  over,  Portland  resumed  its  accustomed  activity.  Then,  on  the 
afternoon  of  July  4,  1866,  there  occurred  what  was  probably  the  greatest 
of  Portland's  series  of  catastrophes.  A  great  fire  almost  wiped  out  the  city. 
Starting  in  a  boatshop  on  Commercial  Street  near  the  foot  of  High  Street, 
and  fanned  by  a  strong  southerly  wind,  it  swept  diagonally  across  the 
Neck  to  Back  Cove  and  up  Munjoy  Hill.  Except  for  a  line  of  buildings  on 
Commercial  Street  and  another  on  Oxford  Street,  the  whole  lower  and 
most  densely  settled  area  of  Portland  was  brought  to  the  ground  during 
the  fifteen  hours  the  fire  raged.  Only  by  blowing  up  buildings  in  the  path 
of  the  flames,  and  by  the  most  strenuous  efforts  on  the  part  of  fire  fighters 
was  the  rest  of  the  city  saved.  Longfellow,  viewing  the  city  some  weeks 
after  the  conflagration,  wrote  to  a  friend :  '  I  have  been  in  Portland  since 
the  fire.  Desolation,  desolation,  desolation!  It  reminds  me  of  Pompeii ' 

Most  of  the  public  buildings,  all  the  banks,  half  the  city's  churches  and 
manufacturing  establishments,  and  hundreds  of  dwellings  were  razed  by 
the  flames.  The  financial  loss  amounted  to  millions.  Yet,  despite  the 
extent  of  the  disaster,  not  a  life  was  lost.  Colonies  of  tents  sprang  up  to 
shelter  the  homeless,  and  contributions  of  money,  provisions,  clothing,  and 
building  materials  poured  in  from  all  parts  of  the  country.  Thieving  and 
extortion  were  more  than  balanced  by  countless  deeds  of  heroism  and  acts 
of  generosity. 

Rebuilding  commenced  immediately,  with  many  improvements.  Narrow 
streets  were  widened  and  crooked  ones  straightened;  much  of  the  conges- 
tion caused  by  poor  planning  was  changed.  Once  more  Portland  bound 
up  its  wounds  and  settled  down  to  serious  business,  and  shipping  and 
industry  were  soon  vying  with  each  other  in  the  renewed  commercial 
expansion.  Unlike  that  of  some  cities  that  have  grown  around  one  in- 
dustrial enterprise,  Portland's  business  complexion  has  changed  with  the 
times.  It  reflected  the  rise  and  fall  of  such  major  industries  as  lumbering 
and  wooden  shipbuilding;  it  was  marked  by  the  changes  in  the  industrial 
life  of  the  United  States  as  a  whole;  and  recently  it  has  clearly  indicated 
Maine's  decline  as  an  industrial  State  and  its  rise  as  a  vacation  and  resort 
region. 

During,  and  shortly  after,  the  World  War  period,  Portland  experienced 
great  prosperity.  Nearly  all  the  grain  from  Canada  was  exported  through 
this  port,  and  the  city  had  facilities  for  handling  large  import  and  export 
cargoes  which  other  cities  in  the  State  could  not  accommodate.  In 
consequence,  commerce  was  thriving,  and  there  was  no  lack  of  employ- 
ment along  the  water  front.  At  the  same  time  real  estate  was  booming, 
and  much  of  suburban  Portland  as  it  is  today  was  built. 

As  Portland  achieved  a  solid  worldly  footing,  its  citizens  turned  toward 
cultural  and  intellectual  interests.  At  one  time  it  enjoyed  a  reputation  as 
a  theatrical  city,  with  thriving  stock  companies  of  its  own.  Dramatic 
performances  had  their  beginning  as  early  as  1 794  with  a  performance  of  a 
comedy,  'The  Lyar,'  and  a  farce,  the  ' Modern  Antiques,  or  the  Merry 
Mourners,'  while  the  'Learned  Pig'  was  sung  between  the  pieces  'with 
much  success.'  In  1796,  Portland  theater-goers  had  the  pleasure  of  hear- 


170  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

ing  nine-year-old  Elizabeth  Arnold  sing  at  an  evening  performance  in 
which  her  mother  played  the  lead;  she  it  was  who  later  bore  the  child 
named  Edgar  Allan  Poe.  Portland's  theatrical  days  were  in  their  greatest 
glory  in  the  iSgo's.  At  that  time  the  famous  Jefferson  Theater  was 
opened  (September,  1897)  with  'Half  a  King,'  starring  Francis  Wilson; 
and  Joseph  Jefferson,  for  whom  the  playhouse  was  named,  was  guest  of 
honor.  In  the  course  of  its  brilliant  career,  it  is  said,  the  boards  of  the 
Jefferson  were  trod  by  every  American  actor  of  note  except  David  War- 
field.  Today  the  site  of  the  theater  is  occupied  by  an  automobile  service 
station.  All  present-day  Portland  can  boast  theatrically  is  an  active 
Little  Theater  movement. 

Music,  too,  has  felt  the  pressure  of  changing  tastes.  At  one  time  the 
Maine  Music  Festivals  were  held  here,  gathering  together  choirs,  choral 
societies,  and  bands  from  all  over  the  State  and  bringing  the  world's 
greatest  musicians  and  singers  to  Maine.  For  nearly  forty  years  the  fes- 
tivals were  the  chief  events  of  the  Maine  season.  At  the  1897  festival 
Madame  Lillian  Nordica  (see  Tour  11)  scored  distinct  triumphs,  and 
again  in  1912,  when  she  made  her  last  appearance  before  a  Maine  audience 
responding  to  encore  after  encore  with  'Home,  Sweet  Home.'  Portland 
still  has  its  musicians,  as  frequent  concerts  and  recitals  testify,  and  there 
are  many  organizations  providing  opportunities  not  only  for  those  who 
play  and  sing,  but  also  for  those  who  like  good  music. 

Present-day  Portland  socially  is  an  average  American  city,  its  com- 
mercial and  industrial  aspects  redeemed  somewhat  by  its  heritage  of  New 
England  culture.  Its  population  is  predominantly  of  Anglo-Saxon  stock, 
with  small  Americanized  groups  of  Irish,  Jewish,  Italian,  and  Scandina- 
vian people.  There  is  no  rigid  segregation,  and  the  only  pronounced 
foreign  quarter  that  may  be  called  such  is  that  of  the  Italians.  Portland 
has  more  than  sixty  churches  and  religious  meeting-places,  accommodat- 
ing a  wide  variety  of  denominations.  A  complete  parochial  school  system, 
a  convent,  and  one  of  the  two  monasteries  in  Maine  are  operated  by  the 
Roman  Catholic  Church.  The  first  radio  parish  in  America  was  estab- 
lished over  Portland's  broadcasting  station.  The  city's  public  schools 
lead  all  others  of  the  State,  and  private  institutions  include  a  Hebrew 
school,  a  junior  college  for  women,  a  girls'  preparatory  school,  a  Roman 
Catholic  academy  for  girls,  several  business  colleges,  and  specialized 
schools  for  the  study  of  law  and  other  subjects.  State  schools  for  deaf- 
mutes  and  for  the  blind  are  maintained  here. 

Portland's  shipping,  always  of  first  importance  since  Colonial  times,  de- 
clined abruptly  following  the  World  War,  but  tonnage  figures  show  it  to 
be  on  an  upward  trend.  The  chief  products  shipped  into  Portland  by 
water  are  pulpwood,  baled  pulp,  coal,  petroleum  products,  small  amounts 
of  sulphur  and  China  clay,  and  package  freight.  Outgoing  cargoes  consist 
mainly  of  Solka,  a  local  wood-pulp  product  that  is  sent  to  Japan j  fjsh, 
potatoes,  finished  paper,  newsprint,  and  package  freight.  Portland, 
nearer  the  North  Atlantic  fishing  grounds  than  either  Boston  or  Glouces- 
ter, leads  Maine  in  the  fishing  industry.  Always  a  commercial  rather  than 


Portland  171 


an  industrial  center,  the  city  has  attracted  the  branches  of  many  national 
companies,  is  the  distributing  point  for  chain-store  units  throughout  the 
State,  and  is  the  home  of  numerous  large  wholesale  concerns.  Its  trading 
population  almost  equals  that  of  its  own  citizens.  Its  position  as  a  head- 
quarters and  point  of  departure  for  the  tourist  and  sportsman  frequently 
comes  near  trebling  its  population  at  the  height  of  the  summer  season. 

Portland  is  very  much  alive.  Here  one  may  feel  the  social,  economic,  and 
political  pulse  of  the  State  of  Maine.  Here  are  modern  businesses  on  up- 
to-date  streets  in  close  proximity  to  fascinating  old  shops  and  alleys  with 
the  dust  of  another  century  upon  them.  Today's  business  and  yesterday's 
history,  new  enterprise  and  old  romance,  are  combined  in  this  city  which 
Longfellow  in  his  old  age  remembered  wistfully  as  'the  beautiful  town 
that  is  seated  by  the  sea.' 


TOUR  1  —  2.2m. 


NE.  from  Monument  Sq.  on  Congress  St. 

Monument  Square,  the  busy  junction  of  Congress,  Middle,  Federal, 
Elm,  Center,  and  Preble  Sts.,  was  for  generations  Portland's  forum,  the 
center  of  the  city's  commercial,  social,  and  political  activity.  A  block- 
house built  at  this  point  in  1 746  for  defense  against  the  Indians,  and  gar- 
risoned with  provincial  troops,  was  abandoned  two  years  later  and  sold  to 
the  county.  A  few  years  later  a  jail  and  jail-keeper's  house  were  built  ad- 
joining the  blockhouse.  Since  the  jailer  received  only  £15  annually  for 
his  services,  he  kept  a  tavern,  called  the  Freemason's  Arms.  A  loyalist 
sea  captain,  captured  in  1780  while  recovering  iron  from  the  wreck  of 
SaltonstalTs  fleet  (see  BANGOR)  wrote  of  the  Falmouth  Jail  that  he  'had 
neither  bed,  blankets,  or  anything  to  lay  on  but  the  oak  plank  floor,  with 
the  heads  of  spikes  an  inch  high  and  so  thick  together  that  I  could  not 
lay  down  clear  of  them.'  Small  wonder  that  he  broke  jail  and  escaped 
after  his  first  few  weeks  of  imprisonment.  The  blockhouse  jail  was  re- 
moved in  1797. 

Up  to  the  2oth  century,  Market  Square,  as  it  was  then  called,  was  the 
scene  of  all  popular  gatherings  in  the  city,  surrounded  as  it  was  by  stores, 
hotels,  public  halls,  and  places  of  amusement.  The  central  building, 
Military  Hall  (1825-88),  was  both  'town  house'  and  market  place. 
Military  companies  had  their  armories  in  the  building  and  town  meetings 
were  held  there.  More  than  one  riot  took  place  in  the  square  before  the 
hall  —  one  of  them  in  1856  when,  during  the  mayoralty  of  the  prohibi- 
tionist Neal  Dow,  a  man  was  shot  during  the  attempt  of  an  anti-liquor- 
law  mob  to  seize  the  city-owned  liquors  stored  in  the  building.  On  holi- 
days the  square  was  always  the  focus  of  the  city's  life,  and  in  the  evenings 
crowds  gathered  about  the  peddlers  and  showmen  who  displayed  their 
wares  by*£he  light  of  flaming  torches, 


1 72  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

1.  The  lofty  Monument  by  Franklin  Simmons,  in  the  center  of  the  square, 
was  completed  and  dedicated  in  1891,  a  memorial  to  the  Portland  men 
who  participated  in  the  Civil  War. 

2.  On  Congress  St.  (R)  is  the  Building  of  the  Edwards  and  Walker  Hard- 
ware Company,  a  typical  Maine  concern,  which  was  started  61  years  ago  as 
a  general  trading  center  and  is  still  (1937)  under  the  management  of  its 
founder.    Priding  itself  on  its  conservatism,  it  is  the  largest  house  of  its 
kind  in  Maine  if  not  in  New  England.  The  Edwards  and  Walker  Building 
was  in  stagecoach  days  the  United  States  Hotel,  and  until  the  Civil  War 
was  Portland's  premier  hostelry;  its  outward  appearance  has  not  greatly 
changed  since  its  heyday. 

L.  from  Congress  St.  on  Elm  St. 

3.  The  Portland  Society  of  Natural  History  Museum  (open  weekdays,  2-4), 
24  Elm  St.,  maintains  a  library  of  5000  volumes  dealing  with  natural 
history,  geographical  surveys,  scientific  treatises,  abstracts,  bulletins,  and 
magazines.    Museum  exhibits,  marked  for  inspection,  include  Indian 
relics,  mounted  North  American  fauna,  shells,  minerals,  wood  samples, 
paper,  plant  life,  clothing,  and  household  instruments.  There  is  a  fairly 
exhaustive  exhibit  of  Maine  specimens. 

Retrace  to  Congress  St.;  L.  on  Congress  St. 

4.  The  First  Parish  (Unitarian)  Church  (1825),  425  Congress  St.,  is 
second  successor  to  the  original  Falmouth  meeting-house  that  stood  at  the 
corner  of  Middle  and  India  Sts.,  and  served  the  Community  from  1718 
to  1746  as  a  place  of  worship,  and  for  a  time  as  courthouse.  Parson  Smith, 
first  regularly  ordained  minister  in  Maine  east  of  Wells,  recorded  in  1747: 
'  I  prayed  with  the  Court  in  the  afternoon.  Justice  came  drunk.'  Smith, 
succeeding  a  series  of  itinerant  ministers  of  whom  one  was  the  Rev. 
George  Burroughs,  who  preached  here  in  the  i67o's  and  was  hanged  for 
witchcraft  in  Salem  in  1692,  attended  to  the  theological,  and  also  the 
medical,  needs  of  his  parishioners  for  70  years.    The  church  became 
Unitarian  in  1809  and  attained  its  greatest  prominence  under  the  Rev. 
Ichabod  Nichols,  who  was  called  to  the  parish  at  that  time.  'Old  Jerusa- 
lem,' the  second  structure,  occupied  the  present  site  from  1746  to  1825, 
when  it  was  replaced  by  the  stone  church  as  it  now  stands.  The  former 
church  was  for  years  a  Portland  landmark,  and  the  young  Longfellow 
wrote  a  poem  protesting  its  destruction.   'Old  Jerusalem'  withstood  the 
Mowatt  bombardment,  although  a  cannonball,  now  embedded  in  the 
ceiling  of  the  present  church,  with  a  chandelier  suspended  from  it, 
penetrated  one  of  its  sides. 

5.  The  Portland  City  Hall  and  Municipal  Auditorium,  380  Congress  St., 
occupies  a  plot  of  ground  associated  with  city,  county,  and  State  govern- 
ment for  more  than  1 50  years.  The  first  structure  on  this  site  was  a  two- 
story  frame  courthouse  (1782-1816)  whose  cupola  was  surmounted  by 
the  carved  weathercock  now  adorning  the  First  National  Bank  Building. 
Gallows,  stocks,  and  pillory  had  a  prominent  place  in  the  first  floor  hall  of 
the  courthouse,  and  the  whipping  post  stood  outside  its  door.  The  first 


Portland  173 


capital  conviction  in  the  United  States  Courts  after  the  adoption  of  the 
Constitution  (Article  I,  sec.  8:  'The  congress  shall  have  power ...  to  define 
and  punish  piracies  and  felonies  committed  on  the  high  seas  . . .')  occurred 
here  in  1790,  when  one  Thomas  Bird  was  sentenced  to  be  hanged  for 
piracy  and  murder.  Bird's  petition  for  pardon  was  refused  by  President 
Washington,  and  he  was  promptly  executed  on  Bramhall  Hill.  A  jail 
(1797-1859)  and  a  jail-keeper's  house  were  built  in  the  rear  of  the  court- 
house, the  former  having  a  dungeon  with  chains,  shackles,  and  ringbolts. 
The  debtor's  rooms  in  the  attic  '  were  not  so  repulsive,  yet  those  who  were 
then  confined  in  them  —  did  not  appear  as  if  they  were  happy/  A  new 
brick  courthouse  was  erected  in  1818  and,  four  years  later  when  Maine 
became  a  State,  it  was  used  by  the  legislature.  Until  1822,  spirituous 
liquors  were  sold  on  the  premises,  a  practice  which  was  discontinued  in 
that  year  '  during  the  sitting  of  the  Court  of  Legislature.'  Another  build- 
ing adjoining  the  courthouse  had  been  erected  in  1820  to  accommodate 
the  Senate  and  State  offices,  and  was  in  use  until  the  State  capitol  was 
removed  to  Augusta  in  1831.  At  the  time  of  Lafayette's  visit  to  Portland 
in  June,  1825,  an  awning  was  spread  from  the  front  of  the  statehouse  to  the 
elm  trees  lining  the  street  before  it,  and  the  General  held  his  public  recep- 
tion on  a  platform  built  from  the  entrance. 

Two  other  city  and  county  buildings  on  the  site  of  the  old  courthouse, 
jail,  and  statehouse  were  built  and  burned  before  the  construction  (1909- 


PORTLAND.  POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  Monument  Square  21.  Sweat  Mansion 

2.  Edwards  and  Walker  Company  22.  School  Fine  and  Applied  Art 

3.  Portland  Society  of  Natural  His-  23.  Storer-Mussey  House 

tory  24.  Dole  or  Churchill  House 

4.  First  Parish  Church  25.  State  Street  Hospital 

5.  Portland  City  Hall  26.  Deane  House 

6.  Cumberland  County  Courthouse  27.  Saint  Luke's  Cathedral 

7.  Lincoln  Park  28.  Milliken  House 

8.  Birthplace  of  Fanny   Fern  and  29,  Shepley  House 

N.  P.  Willis  30.  MeUen-Fessenden  House 

9.  Cathedral    of    the    Immaculate  31.  John  Neal  Houses 

Conception  32.  Longfellow  Statue 

10.  Eastern  Cemetery  33.  Neal  Dow  Homestead 

11.  Henry  W.  Longfellow  Birthplace  34.  Fort  Allen  Park 

12.  Thomas  B.  Reed  Birthplace  35.  First  Civic  Monument 

13.  Grand  Trunk  Station  36.  Fort  Sumner  Park 

14.  Water  Front  37.  Portland  Observatory 

15.  Old  Post  Office  Building  38.  Deering  Mansion 

16.  Wadsworth  Longfellow  House  39.  Deering's  Oaks 

17.  Museum   Maine   Historical   So-  40.  Thomas  B.  Reed  Statue 

ciety  41.  Williston  Congregational  Church 

18.  Birthplace  of  Cyrus  H.  K.  Curtis  42.  St.  Joseph's  Academy 

19.  Cumberland  Club  43.  Tate  House 
30.  L.  D.  M.  Sweat  Museum  44.  Means  House 


176  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

12)  of  the  present  city  hall,  designed  by  Carrere  and  Hastings  of  New 
York  and  Stevens  and  Stevens  of  Portland. 

In  the  rear  of  the  building  a  Municipal  Auditorium  with  a  seating  capacity 
of  over  3000,  houses  the  Kotzchmar  Memorial  Organ,  gift  of  the  late  Cyrus 
H.  K.  Curtis  in  memory  of  Herman  Kotzchmar  (1829-1908),  cdmposer. 
teacher,  and  for  47  years  organist  of  the  First  Parish  in  Portland.  The 
Kotzchmar  organ,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world,  is  really  eight  instru- 
ments in  one;  it  has  177  speaking  stops  and  couplers,  over  6500  pipes,  and 
a  carillon.  Although  there  is  at  present  no  municipal  organist,  a  series  of 
summer  concerts  is  sponsored  by  the  American  Guild  of  Organists,  and 
each  year  many  well-known  musicians  participate. 

R.  from  Congress  St.  on  Pearl  St. 

6.  The  Cumberland  County  Courthouse  (1906-07)  (open  weekdays),  NE. 
cor.  Federal  and  Pearl  Sts.,  an  impressive  neo-classic  structure  of  Maine 
granite  designed  by  George  Burnham,  houses  the  county  governmental 
and  judiciary  offices  and  archives.    Directly  across,  SE.  cor.  Pearl  and 
Federal  Sts.,  stands  the  Federal  Court  Building,  a  similarly  impressive 
granite  building,  where  the  U.S.  District  Court  holds  its  sessions. 

Retrace  to  Congress  St.;  R.  on  Congress  St. 

7.  Lincoln  Park,  bounded  by  Congress,  Franklin,  Federal,  and  Pearl  Sts., 
occupies  the  heart  of  the  city.   Formerly  a  heavily  congested  residential 
area,  it  was  set  aside  after  the  fire  of  1866  by  the  city  fathers  as  a  'pro- 
tection against  the  spread  of  fire  and  to  promote  the  public  health.'  The 
land  was  purchased  for  a  public  square  and  market  place,  designed  ac- 
cordingly in  1867,  and  named  Phoenix  Square.    At  the  protest  of  the 
common  council,  the  name  was  shortly  changed  to  Lincoln  Park.   With 
the  judicious  planting  of  trees  and  the  installation  of  a  fountain  in  1870 
the  spot  soon  became  a  welcome  and  restful  breathing  space  in  a  section 
of  the  city  which  in  the  course  of  time  has  grown  somewhat  drab. 

R.  from  Congress  St.  on  Franklin  St. 

8.  The  Birthplace  of  Fanny  Fern  and  N.  P.  Willis  (private),  24  Franklin 
St.,  is  an  undistinguished  gray  house  on  a  quiet  street,  with  little  about  it 
to  indicate  that  two  famous  children  of  a  distinguished  father  were  born 
and  lived  here  more  than  a  century  ago.  Here  in  1807  was  born  Nathaniel 
Parker  Willis  and  in  1811  his  sister,  Sara,  known  to  thousands  of  readers 
as  Fanny  Fern.   Their  father,  Nathaniel  Willis,  was  the  founder  of  the 
Youth's  Companion;  both  children  at  an  early  age  became  even  more 
famous  than  he,  Nathaniel  as  an  international  journalist  and  poet,  Sara 
as  novelist  and  essayist  (see  The  Arts}. 

Retrace  to  Congress  St.;  R.  on  Congress  St. 

9.  The  Cathedral  of  the  Immaculate  Conception,  307  Congress  St.,  its  main 
entrance  facing  Cumberland  Ave.,  is  the  seat  of  the  bishopric  and  the 
mother  church  for  the  entire  Catholic  diocese  of  Maine.   Completed  and 
dedicated  in  1869  in  spite  of  repeated  setbacks  in  its  building  during  the 
Civil  War  and  the  great  fire  of  1866,  after  which  the  bishop  was  obliged  to 


Portland  177 


celebrate  mass  in  the  shed  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Depot  for  want  of  a  church, 
it  has  been  remodeled  once,  in  1930.  Apparently  an  agglomeration  of 
several  structures,  the  Cathedral  is  designed  in  a  modified  French  Gothic 
style.  The  main  building's  lofty  interior,  resembling  somewhat  those  of 
the  cathedrals  of  Europe,  is  embellished  with  walls  of  Carrara,  Brescia, 
Pavonazzo,  Porta  Santa,  and  Numidian  red  marble  and  adorned  with 
delicately  tinted  ornament.  The  Stations  of  the  Cross  are  executed  in 
mosaic  and  the  18  stained-glass  windows  are  of  Munich  glass. 

10.  The  old  Eastern  Cemetery,  extending  below  Mountfort  St.  from 
Congress  to  Federal  Sts.,  has  been  in  use  for  more  than  250  years,  and  for 
more  than  two  centuries  of  that  period  was  the  only  graveyard  within  the 
city  limits.  The  six  acres  of  this  crowded  burial  place,  almost  in  the  heart 
of  the  city,  contain  the  graves  of  many  of  Portland's  early  and  most 
prominent  families.  The  oldest  legible  stone  is  dated  1717.  Here,  side  by 
side,  lie  the  bodies  of  the  two  gallant  young  commanders  of  one  of  the 
decisive  naval  battles  of  the  War  of  1812,  Lieutenant  William  Burrows, 
commander  of  the  victorious  U.S.  brig  'Enterprise,'  and  Captain  Samuel 
Blyth,  Commander  of  the  British  brig  'Boxer,'  who  were  killed  in  action 
between  Seguin  and  Monhegan  September  5,  1813.  Two  days  after  the 
sea  fight  the  '  Enterprise '  arrived  in  Portland  Harbor  with  the  defeated 
British  vessel.  Then,  to  the  accompaniment  of  booming  guns  and  fol- 
lowed by  nearly  all  the  boats  in  the  harbor,  the  officers'  bodies  were 
brought  to  shore  in  ten-oared  barges  rowed  by  ships'  masters.  Congress 
subsequently  had  a  commemorative  medal  struck  in  honor  of  Lieutenant 
Burrows. 

Near  the  graves  of  the  commanders  of  the  '  Enterprise '  and  the  '  Boxer '  is 
a  memorial  to  Lieutenant  Henry  Wadsworth,  the  uncle  for  whom  Henry 
Wadsworth  Longfellow  was  named.  In  September,  1804,  this  20-year-old 
officer  was  killed  off  Tripoli  when  the  fireship  'Intrepid,'  dispatched  to 
destroy  the  Tripolitan  navy,  was  blown  up  to  save  it  from  capture.  A 
monument  commemorating  this  event  stands  at  the  western  front  of  the 
Capitol  in  Washington. 

An  impressive  marble  tomb  marks  the  grave  of  one  of  Portland's  famous 
citizens,  Commodore  Edward  Preble  (1761-1807).  In  1803,  President 
Jefferson  chose  Preble  to  command  the  forces  sent  to  conquer  the  Barbary 
pirates.  Sailing  for  Tripoli  with  the  celebrated  'Constitution'  for  his 
flagship,  Preble  conducted  so  effective  a  campaign  that  the  Barbary 
powers  sued  for  peace  at  any  terms.  Pope  Pius  VII  said  of  him  that  '  he 
had  done  more  for  Christianity  in  a  short  space  of  time  than  the  most 
powerful  nations  have  done  in  ages.' 

R.  from  Congress  St.  on  Mountfort  St.;  R.  from  Mountfort  St.  on  Fore  St. 

Fore  Street  is  as  integrally  a  part  of  Portland  as  the  far  busier  main 
thoroughfare,  Congress  St.  Its  crooked  course,  lined  with  rows  of  weath- 
ered, often  ramshackle,  brick  and  frame  buildings,  indicates  the  contours 
of  the  original  Portland  waterfront.  Fore  and  contiguous  streets  —  Love 
Lane,  now  Center  St.,  Fish  St.,  now  Exchange,  Lime  St.,  now  Market, 


178  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

Fiddle  Lane,  now  Franklin  St.,  Turkey  Lane,  now  Newbury  St.,  Moose 
Alley,  now  Chatham  St.,  Chub  Lane,  now  Hampshire  St.,  and  King  St., 
now  India,  the  oldest  street  in  Portland  —  were  long  the  commercial  and 
residential  centers  of  the  city,  and  comprise  the  district  which  suffered 
most  from  the  fire  of  1866.  Longfellow  recalled  the  Fore  St.  of  his  youth, 
with  its  '  black  wharves  and  the  slips . . .  and  the  Spanish  sailors  with 
bearded  lips,'  when  the  fashionable  residential  section  still  lay  east  of 
Congress  St.  Here  on  Fore  St.  were  the  counting-houses,  chandleries, 
slopshops,  saloons,  lodging-houses,  and  the  warehouses  crammed  with 
West  Indian  goods.  Wharves  and  piers  were  piled  high  with  barrels  of 
Jamaica  rum,  hogsheads  of  Porto  Rico  molasses,  and  the  thousands  of  feet 
of  lumber  that  were  hauled  in  from  the  surrounding  country  by  ox  teams, 
a  practice  which  occasioned  a  bit  of  popular  verse,  which  with  many 
variations,  was  repeated  all  over  the  globe : 

'From  Saccarap'  to  Portland  Pier 
I've  hauled  boards  for  many  a  year; 
Since  this  hard  work,  with  much  abuse, 
I'm  salted  down  for  sailor's  use.' 

Later  on  in  its  history  certain  sections  of  Fore  St.  acquired  an  unsavory 
reputation.  With  the  laying  out  of  Commercial  St.  in  the  middle  of  the 
1 9th  century,  Fore  was  relegated  to  a  position  of  secondary  importance, 
but  suffered  only  slight  diminution  of  activity.  By  the  close  of  the  Civil 
War,  however,  the  center  of  the  city's  business  had  moved  away,  and 
while  Fore  St.  today  is  by  no  means  devoid  of  traffic,  the  turbulent  bustle 
of  its  heyday  is  long  past.  Many  of  its  buildings  are  the  tombs  of  a 
former  prosperity  and,  whereas  midnight  was  once  but  another  hour  to  the 
scores  of  brawling  and  carousing  sailors  who  frequented  the  street,  its 
silence  is  now  broken  only  by  an  occasional,  perhaps  furtive,  footfall  or 
the  caterwauling  of  the  stray  cats  that  live  in  the  deserted  lofts  and  cellars. 

ii.  The  Henry  Wadsworth  Longfellow  Birthplace  (1784)  (open:  1st  July- 
Labor  Day,  9-6;  adm.  25<t,  three  for  50£),  cor.  Fore  and  Hancock  Sts.,  is  a 
plain  three-story  frame  house  that  has  long  since  given  up  any  preten- 
sions to  elegance  or  beauty.  At  the  time  of  the  poet's  birth,  when  his 
parents  were  visiting  Stephen  Longfellow's  sister  here,  Casco  Bay  came 
nearly  to  the  dooryard  of  the  house.  A  white  sand  beach,  a  favorite 
location  for  administering  the  baptismal  rites  of  certain  fundamental- 
ist denominations,  stretched  along  the  section  now  covered  by  railroad 
tracks.  For  a  time  the  house  was  headquarters  for  the  now  disbanded 
International  Longfellow  Society.  When  the  society  attempted  to  restore 
the  dwelling  in  1914,  it  was  found  that  the  original  doorway  had  been  re- 
placed by  a  cheap,  glass-paneled  door.  A  doorway  more  harmonious 
with  the  design  of  the  house  was  found  in  another  building,  and  a  stately 
entrance  with  mullioned  side-lights,  arched  transom,  and  molded  archi- 
traves now  ornaments  the  poet's  birthplace.  Not  until  10  years  or  so  ago 
was  it  discovered  that  the  old  house,  from  which  the  doorway  had  been 
removed,  was  also  of  considerable  historic  interest  as  the  birthplace  of 
John  Knowles  Paine  (1839-1906),  America's  earliest  noted  composer. 


Portland  179 


Plain  wooden  plaques  bearing  the  names  and  dates  of  Homer,  Virgil, 

Dante,  Shakespeare,  and  Milton  are  on  the  outside  walls  of  the  Longfellow 

House. 

R.  from  Fore  St.  on  Hancock  St. 

12.  The  Thomas  Brackett  Reed  Birthplace,  15  Hancock  St.,  now  a  storage 
warehouse,  was  the  home  of  one  of  the  leading  political  figures  of  Maine 
and  the  United  States  in  the  last  quarter  of  the  iQth  century.  Thomas  B. 
Reed  (1839-1902)  grew  up  in  this  humble  section  of  Portland  where  his 
friends  were  the  'Brackett  Street  boys'  and  the  'Center-Streeters'  when 
'  beyond  them  in  the  unknown  regions  of  Munjoy  Hill,  were  savage  and 

warlike  tribes  of  whom  we  did  not  even  know  the  names '  Graduated 

from  Bowdoin  in  1860,  Reed  later  served  Maine  in  its  house  and  senate 
and  as  attorney  general.    In  1876  he  was  sent  to  Congress  and  was  a 
member  of  that  body  for  22  years.  Speaker  of  the  House  for  three  sessions, 
Reed  won  the  sobriquet  of  'Czar'  Reed  because  of  his  autocratic  rulings; 
he  was  responsible  for  much  of  the  legislative  procedure  in  use  today.  He 
was  noted  for  his  penetrating  wit  and  humor  as  much  as  for  his  statesman- 
ship. To  one  Representative's  statement  that  he  would  'rather  be  right 
than  President,'  Reed  replied:  'The  gentleman  from  Illinois  will  never  be 
either.'  Again,  when  informed  that  one  member  of  the  Senate  was  ill  to 
the  point  of  being  out  of  his  head,  Reed  remarked : '  He  ought  to  come  up 
to  the  House;  they  are  all  that  way  up  there.'  Although  a  great  admirer 
of  Theodore  Roosevelt,  he  once  said  to  the  latter:  'What  I  especially 
admire  about  you,  Theodore,  is  your  enthusiasm  at  having  discovered  the 
Ten  Commandments.'  Possibly  Reed's  wit  was  keener  and  more  malicious 
than  he  realized,  and  it  may  have  had  something  to  do  with  his  small 
showing  when  running  against  McKinley  for  the  Presidential  nomination. 
He  retired  voluntarily  from  Congress  in  1899  and  made  his  home  in  Port- 
land until  his  death. 

Retrace  to  Fore  St. 

13.  The  Grand  Trunk  Station  (1903),  NE.  cor.  Fore  and  India  Sts., 
occupies  a  site  that  has  figured  prominently  in  Portland's  history  from  the 
days  of  Indian  warfare  to  the  era  of  modern  transportation  and  com- 
merce.   Under  the  authorization  of  the  Massachusetts  Government,  a 
stockade  was  built  here  in  1680.  This  stockade,  on  the  site  of  Fort  Loyal, 
stood  on  a  bluff  about  30  feet  higher  than  the  present  level  of  the  station. 
In  the  year  of  the  fort's  erection  Thomas  Danforth  of  Boston  was  ap- 
pointed 'President  of  Maine,'  and,  invested  with  governmental  authority, 
came  to  Falmouth  Neck,  where  he  held  formal  court  within  the  fort's  en- 
closure and  established  municipal  government,  the  first  ordered  rule  since 
Indians  had  destroyed  the  settlement  in  1676.  Grants  of  land  were  made, 
most  of  them  in  the  India  Street  section,  and  a  village  was  built  along 
defensive  lines.  Ten  years  later  the  fort  was  enlarged  into  a  strong  fortifi- 
cation with  four  blockhouses  and  eight  cannon.  On  May  17,  1690,  nearly 
all  the  houses  of  the  new  community  were  destroyed  by  a  force  of  500 
French  and  Indians,  the  inhabitants  fleeing  to  the  fort.  After  a  three-day 
siege,  during  which  the  attackers  had  begun  to  undermine  the  defenses,  the 


180  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

fort  surrendered.  The  French  commanders  assured  the  defenders  quarter 
and  liberty  to  march  south,  but  as  soon  as  the  gates  were  opened,  the 
English  were  abandoned  to  the  Indians.  The  survivors,  many  of  them 
women  and  children,  were  taken  captive  and  forced  to  make  the  arduous 
24-day  journey  northward  to  Quebec.  Fort  Loyal  was  fallen  and  de- 
serted. Two  years  later  a  party  under  Sir  William  Phips  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b) 
and  Captain  Church  stopped  to  bury  the  bleaching  bones  of  those  who 
had  perished  within  and  around  the  fort. 

Until  the  laying-out  of  Commercial  St.  and  the  filling-in  of  the  land,  the 
tidewaters  of  Clay  Cove  approached  to  within  a  short  distance  of  the  fort 
plot.  In  1826  this  location  became  the  site  of  a  marine  railway,  a  horse- 
drawn  cradle  affair,  which  was  the  first  approach  to  a  modern  dry  dock  in 
this  region.  Much  of  the  land  now  occupied  by  the  station  and  railroad 
yards  was  for  some  time  given  over  to  the  clean  wood-and-tar  atmosphere 
of  a  shipyard.  Vessels  of  small  tonnage  for  the  West  Indian  trade  were 
launched  here,  but  not  before  the  Cove  had  been  filled  with  floating  logs 
which,  piling  up  before  the  sterns,  lessened  the  momentum  of  the  vessels 
so  that  they  did  not  run  aground  on  the  flats. 

In  1853  the  old  fort  site  assumed  a  new  and  international  importance.  In 
that  year  the  Atlantic  and  St.  Lawrence  Ry.,  subsequently  leased  to  the 
Grand  Trunk  Ry.  Co.  of  Canada  and  now  forming  a  part  of  the  Canadian 
National  Rys.,  was  completed  between  the  port  of  Portland  and  Montreal. 
Dispute  between  Boston  and  Portland  as  to  which  city  should  be  the 
American  terminus  for  the  railroad  was  settled  in  unique  fashion.  A  boat 
leaving  Liverpool  bore  two  special  mail  bags  for  Montreal,  one  to  be  left 
at  Portland  and  one  at  Boston,  the  city  from  which  the  mail  arrived  first 
naturally  becoming  the  choice  for  the  terminus.  A  tug  sent  out  from 
Portland  intercepted  the  steamer,  and  in  February,  1845,  the  Montreal- 
bound  mail  left  Portland.  Relays  of  horses,  changed  every  seven  miles, 
drew  a  sleigh  northward  through  the  snows  of  a  severe  New  England 
winter.  Three  miles  from  Montreal  a  team  of  spirited  horses  and  a  stylish 
sleigh  were  given  the  driver,  one  Grosvenor  Waterhouse.  Bearing  his 
immense  figure  erect,  the  American  flag  streaming  out  beside  him  from 
the  whipsocket,  Waterhouse  urged  his  horses  to  a  final  tremendous  burst 
of  speed.  The  255-mile  drive  was  completed  in  the  unparalleled  time  of 
1 8  hours  and  6  minutes,  several  hours  ahead  of  the  Boston  mail.  Thus 
Maine  had  demonstrated  that  Portland  was  the  logical  terminus  for  the 
projected  railroad. 

The  present  station  is  constructed  of  brick  and  rough  granite,  its  facade 
surmounted  by  a  square  illuminated  clock  tower.  East  of  the  station  the 
railway's  two  huge  grain  elevators  raise  their  gaunt  shapes  above  yards 
and  wharves. 

L.  from  Fore  St.  on  India  St.;  R.  from  India  St.  on  Commercial  St. 

Commercial  Street,  with  the  waterfront,  is  vitally  important  in  the  city's 
commercial  life.  In  1850  increased  trade  and  the  projected  railway  to 
Canada  seemed  to  demand  better  and  more  ample  transportation  and 


Portland  181 


terminal  facilities  than  were  possible  on  Fore  St.,  which  at  that  time 
bordered  the  water.  Accordingly,  in  that  year,  Commercial  St.,  100  feet 
broad,  more  than  a  mile  long,  with  a  26-foot  space  in  its  center  reserved 
for  the  railroad,  was  laid  out  across  tidewater,  running  over  the  heads  of 
the  wharves.  The  area  between  Commercial  and  Fore  Sts.  was  later 
filled  in ;  the  drop  between  the  levels  of  the  two  streets  is  noticeable  today. 
Thus,  leaving  Fore  St.  stranded,  Commercial  St.  has  become  the  focus  of 
maritime  activity  and  trade.  The  days  when  the  street  was  as  crowded 
and  busy  as  Congress  Street  of  a  Saturday  noon  today,  and  policemen 
patrolled  the  district  in  pairs,  have  gone  within  the  past  quarter  of  a 
century,  but  a  semblance  of  the  activity  of  a  departed  era  is  still  found  in 
the  wholesale  concerns  and  marine  supply  shops  that  border  its  length. 

14.  The  Portland  Waterfront,  lying  adjacent  to  Commercial  St.,  has  more 
than  a  score  of  wharves,  chief  of  which  is  the  $1,500,000  Maine  State  Pier. 
This  pier,  1000  feet  long,  provides  two  ocean  berths  with  a  35-foot  depth 
at  mean  low  tide  on  the  east  side  and  three  berths  with  a  lesser  depth  on 
the  west  side.    Equipped  with  modern  transit  sheds  and  with  ample 
equipment  for  the  rapid  handling  of  ships'  cargoes,  it  has  direct  rail  con- 
nections with  tracks,  on  Commercial  St.,  and  is  the  only  public  terminal 
served  directly  by  all  railroads  entering  the  city.  The  boom  days  of  1812 
when,  according  to  Kenneth  Roberts'  novel,  the  'Lively  Lady,'  'there 
was  free  rum  for  the  workers,  and  free  food '  on  the  waterfront,  and  those  of 
the  World  War  period,  have  declined,  but  fishing  schooners  and  freighters 
from  many  countries  can  still  be  seen  almost  any  day  discharging  or  tak- 
ing on  cargo.  At  several  wharves,  gleaming  cargoes  of  fish,  one  of  which 
may  be  the  spectator's  lunch  in  some  Portland  restaurant,  are  taken  out 
daily  from  the  laden  boats  while  flocks  of  gulls  hover  and  flutter  about 
waiting  for  scraps.  Fussy  little  Casco  Bay  steamboats  have  replaced  the 
packets  and  steamers  of  about  a  dozen  companies  that  once  plied  between 
Portland  and  American  and  European  ports.  Naval  vessels  are  occasion- 
ally berthed  at  a  Portland  pier.   The  ends  of  many  of  the  wharves  are 
more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  away  from  the  original  shoreline,  yet  the 
essential  flavor  of  old  Portland,  its  history,  and  the  dependence  upon  its 
position  as  a  seaport,  can  best  be  sensed  by  visiting  the  waterfront. 

At  the  wharf  of  the  Casco  Bay  Lines  are  the  little  white  steamers  plying 
between  Portland  and  island  villages  and  summer  resorts  (see  Island 
Tours). 

R.  from  Commercial  St.  on  Market  St.;  L.  from  Market  St.  on  Middle  St. 

15.  The  Old  Post  Office  Building  (1871),  cor.  Middle  and  Exchange  Sts.,  an 
elaborate  marble  structure  with  a  Corinthian  portico,  was  Portland's 
third  post  office  on  this  site,  the  two  preceding  it  having  been  destroyed 
by  fire.   In  its  day  it  was  considered  the  finest  of  the  city's  buildings. 
Portland's  (or  Falmouth's)  first  post  office  was  created  in  1775  by  Ben- 
jamin Franklin,  Postmaster  General  of   the  United  Colonies;   Deacon 
Samuel  Freeman,  the  postmaster,  was  not,  apparently,  overworked  at  his 
duties,  for  there  was  but  one  mail  a  week  and  only  84  letters  were  re- 
ceived during  the  first  year.   The  document,  signed  by  Franklin,  which 


1 82  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

created  Freeman  a  'deputy  postmaster'  can  be  seen  in  the  rooms  of  the 
Maine  Historical  Society.  Since  January,  1934,  when  Portland's  more 
capacious  new  post  office  was  opened  at  125  Forest  Ave.,  this  building  has 
been  occupied  by  the  offices  of  various  Federal  bureaus. 

Return  W.  to  Monument  Sq. 


TOUR  2  — 1.7m. 

SW.  from  Monument  Sq.  on  Congress  St. 

16.  The  Wadsworth-Longfellow  House  (1785-86)   (open  weekdays  9.30-5; 
June  l-Sept.  15,  adm.  25fi>  487  Congress  St.,  was  the  childhood  home 
of  the  poet,  Henry  Wadsworth  Longfellow.  The  dignified  old  house,  built 
by  Longfellow's  grandfather,  General  Peleg  Wadsworth  (see  Tour  15),  was 
the  first  brick  house  in  Portland.    In  1815,  after  fire  destroyed  the  gable 
roof  of  the  original  two-story  structure,  the  present  third  story  and  hip 
roof  were  added.    Set  back  from  the  street  behind  its  high  iron  fence, 
rectangular,  solid  and  simple,  it  is  almost  severe  in  its  plainness,  its  only 
ornamentation  being  the  Doric  portico  forming  the  front  entrance.  The 
1 6  rooms  open  to  the  public  are  filled  with  documents,  manuscripts,  por- 
traits, costumes,  household  utensils,  and  furnishings  used  by  the  Wads- 
worth  and  Longfellow  families,  items  pertaining  to  early  Portland  history, 
and  numerous  personal  belongings  and  souvenirs  of  the  poet  himself.   A 
pleasant  shaded  garden  with  quiet  walks  lying  behind  the  house  has  been 
restored  and  cared  for  by  the  Longfellow  Garden  Society.  Although  the 
view  of  Back  Bay  that  added  much  to  its  charm  in  olden  times  is  shut  off  by 
buildings,  the  garden  today  is  much  the  same  as  it  was  when  the  poet 
walked  there. 

Henry  Wadsworth  Longfellow  was  born  at  the  Fore  St.  home  of  his  aunt 
February  27,  1807,  and  lived  in  the  Congress  St.  house  thereafter  until  he 
was  14.  The  poet's  formal  education  began  at  the  age  of  three,  when,  still 
in  dresses  and  accompanied  by  a  Negro  servant,  he  went  on  horseback  to  a 
school  on  Spring  St.  Longfellow  entered  Bowdoin  College  in  1821,  when 
he  was  only  14,  and  a  few  years  after  his  graduation  he  became  that 
college's  first  professor  of  modern  languages.  Later  he  was  made  a  mem- 
ber of  the  faculty  of  Harvard  University,  and  from  that  time  his  home  was 
at  Cambridge,  Massachusetts,  where  he  died  March  24,  1882.  After  his 
death  a  memorial  bust  of  the  poet  —  the  first  American  to  be  so  honored 
—  was  placed  in  the  poet's  corner  of  Westminster  Abbey.  A  replica  of  the 
bust  is  on  exhibition  at  the  Museum  of  the  Maine  Historical  Society. 

17.  The  Museum  of  the  Maine  Historical  Society  (open  weekdays  9.30-5; 
Sat.  9.30-12;  adm.  free),  at  the  rear  of  the  Wadsworth-Longfellow  House, 
contains  a  valuable  historical  and  genealogical  library  for  the  use  of  the 
society  members  (library  privileges  on  request).   In  addition  to  the  library 
there  are  marked  exhibits  pertaining  to  Maine  history,  local  history,  and 


Portland  183 


archeology.  The  John  W.  Penny  Collection  of  Indian  relics  and  other 
articles  (dating  to  the  beginning  of  the  i8th  century)  that  belonged  to 
Father  Sebastian  Rasle  (see  Tour  10)  are  especially  interesting.  There  are 
displays  of  military  equipment  of  the  Revolutionary  and  Civil  Wars,  as 
well  as  documentary  facsimiles,  ship  models,  silverware  and  glassware, 
textiles,  watches,  clocks,  and  lamps  and  lanterns  of  other  days. 

R.  from  Congress  St.  on  Brown  St. 

18.  The  Birthplace  of  Cyrus  H.  K.  Curtis  (1782)  (private),  69  Brown  St., 
a  small  two-and-a-half-story  frame  house,  unpretentious  and  weather- 
beaten,  is  identified  by  a  bronze  tablet  on  the  door.    Cyrus  Herman 
Kotzchmar  Curtis  (1851-1934),  editor,  publisher  of  the  Saturday  Evening 
Post  and  other  well-known  periodicals,  and  long  an  active  patron  of 
education,  music,  and  culture  in  the  country  at  large,  was  for  years  one  of 
Maine's  outstanding  philanthropists. 

Retrace  to  Congress  St.;  L.  from  Congress  on  High  St.  at  Congress  Sq. 

19.  The  Cumberland  Club  House  (1800)  (private),  116  High  St.,  a  Georgian 
structure  in  excellent  preservation,  has  been  at  various  times  the  home  of 
some  of  Portland's  leading  families.    It  was  designed  from  sketches  by 
Alexander  Parris,  its  lines  similar  to  those  of  the  Sweat  Mansion  (see 
below).    Most  of  Portland's  old  homes  are  to  be  seen  on  High,  Spring, 
Park,  Danforth,  and  State  Sts.  within  a  small  radius;  they  signify  the 
worldly  success  and  the  dignified  but  cosmopolitan  culture  of  the  seafaring 
and  trading  class  of  Portland's  youth. 

20.  The  L.  D.  M.  Sweat  Museum  (1908)  (open  weekdays  except  Mon.  10- 
4.30;  Sun.  2-4.30),  103  High  St.,  a  gallery  of  ivy-covered  yellow  brick, 
was  designed  by  John  Calvin  Stevens  and  attached  to  the  rear  of  the 
Sweat  Mansion  (see  below).    It  houses  such  famous  works  as  Gilbert 
Stuart's  portrait  of  General  Wingate,  Douglas  Volk's  portrait  of  Abraham 
Lincoln,  and  paintings  by  John  Singer  Sargent,  Winslow  Homer,  and 
Chester  Harding;  a  collection  of  paintings  chiefly  representative  of  19th- 
century  artists,  outstanding  among  which  are  those  of  Maine's  Harry  W. 
Watrous;  the  Perry  collection  of  i6-century  Belgian  tapestries;  collec- 
tion of  Mexican  and  Indian  potteries;  all  the  work  left  by  Franklin 
Simmons,  famous  Maine  sculptor  of  the  i9th  century;  and  Paul  Akers's 
marble  figure,  the  'Dead  Pearl  Diver,'  known  to  readers  of  Hawthorne's 
'The  Marble  Faun'  (see  The  Arts).  The  museum  holds  monthly  exhibi- 
tions of  contemporary  paintings,  water  colors,  and  prints,  an  annual 
photographic  salon  which  is  internationally  known,  and  an  annual  ex- 
hibition of  the  work  of  local  artists.  The  Portland  Society  of  Art,  owner 
of  the  museum,  conducts  in  an  adjacent  building  the  Portland  School  of 
Fine  and  Applied  Arts. 

21.  The  Sweat  Mansion  (1800)  (adm.  terms  same  as  above),  cor.  Spring  and 
High  Sts.,  is  reached  from  the  entrance  hall  of  the  Sweat  Museum.  It  is 
a  fine  post-Colonial  structure  with  a  semicircular  porch.   It  was  erected 
by  Hugh  McLellan  according  to  plans  by  Captain  Alexander  Parris,  a 
distinguished   Boston   architect   who   designed   several   of   Portland's 


1 84  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

lovely  houses  of  this  period.  At  one  time  the  home  of  General  Joshua 
Wingate,  whose  wife  was  a  daughter  of  General  Henry  Dearborn, 
Secretary  of  War  in  the  Cabinet  of  Thomas  Jefferson,  it  was  known  for 
years  as  the  Wingate  House.  The  mansion  was  left  to  the  Portland 
Society  of  t Art  by  the  late  Mrs.  L.  D.  M.  Sweat  on  condition  that  its 
furnishings,  which  are  of  the  late  Victorian  period,  be  kept  intact  and 
unchanged. 

L.  from  High  St.  on  Spring  St. 

22.  The  Portland  School  of  Fine  and  Applied  Art,  left  from  the  Sweat 
Mansion  on  Spring  St.,  only  school  of  its  kind  in  the  State,  holds  daily  and 
evening  sessions  through  the  academic  year  with  an  annual  registration  of 
about  65  students  (see  Education}. 

Retrace  to  High  St.;  R.  from  High  St.  on  Danforth  St. 

23.  The  Storer-Mussey  House  (open),  SW.  cor.  High  and  Danforth  Sts., 
is  now  part  of  Portland's  Children's  Hospital,  68  High  St.,  a  charitable 
institution  organized  in  1908  and  open  to  all  children  of  the  State  of 
Maine.    The  old  building  of  light-colored  brick,  now  considerably  en- 
larged, is  a  fine  example  of  Federal  architecture,  presenting  one  of  the  best 
architectural  studies  of  halls  and  stairways  west  of  Wiscasset.    The 
delicate  details  of  the  side-lights  and  the  panels  of  the  front  entrance  are 
exceptional,  and  the  doors  and  fireplaces  and  the  woodwork  of  the  interior 
are  in  keeping  with  the  appearance  of  the  exterior.   Set  above  a  terraced 
lawn,  it  affords  an  excellent  view  of  the  harbor. 

L.  from  Danforth  Sf.  on  State  St. 

State  Street  is  Portland's  Beacon  Street  or  Fifth  Avenue.  Here  in  the 
wave  of  prosperity  occurring  at  the  turn  of  the  i8th  century  and  the  boom 
following  the  Embargo  depression,  the  wealthy  merchants  and  retired 
shipping  men  built  their  impressive  mansions.  In  them  were  held  the 
elaborate  social  functions  of  another  day.  Most  of  the  old  State  Street 
houses  retain  their  splendid  and  enduring  charm,  however  dilapidated 
they  may  have  become  in  the  course  of  time,  though  some  few  have  been 
unfortunately  'modernized.'  Although  to  the  casual  visitor  most  of  these 
historic  doors  are  closed,  and  the  stately  interiors  are  not  on  exhibition,  the 
graceful  porticoes  and  fine  architectural  lines  are  evident.  Many  State 
Street  homes  today  retain  part  of  their  original  landscaped  grounds  and 
gardens.  In  this  section  are  many  of  the  city's  finest  churches. 

24.  The  Dole  or  Churchill  House  (1801)  (private),  51  State  St.,  was  de- 
signed by  Alexander  Parris  for  Joseph  Ingraham,  one  of  the  town's 
wealthiest  and  most  enterprising  citizens.    Although  converted  into  a 
rooming  and  apartment  house  in  recent  years,  its  classic  lines,  with 
applied  pilasters  and  ornamental  cornice,  are  worthy  of  attention.    In 
this  mansion  for  many  years  lived  one  of  Portland's  famous  citizens, 
William  Pitt  Preble  (1783-1857),  jurist,  diplomat,  and  railway  president. 
Under  President  Jackson  he  was  U.S.  Ambassador  to  the  Netherlands;  on 
his  retirement  from  Government  service  in  later  life  he  became  president 
of  the  new  Atlantic  &  St.  Lawrence  Ry.,  and  was  largely  instrumental  in 
making  Portland  the  terminus  of  the  line, 


Portland  185 


Retrace  on  State  St. 

25.  The  State  Street  Hospital  (1834),  cor.  Danforth  and  State  Sts.,  for- 
merly the  Female  Orphan  Asylum,  was  originally  the  mansion  of  Captain 
John  Dunlap  of  the  famous  Brunswick  family,  half-brother  of  Gover- 
nor Robert  Dunlap  (see  BRUNSWICK).      Captain  Dunlap's  daughter 
Fanny,  reared  in  this  gracious  home,  became  the  wife  of  the  poet,  James 
Russell  Lowell.    Later  the  house  belonged  to  Judge  Joseph  Howard, 
Chief  Justice  of  Maine  and  U.S.  District  Attorney.  Here  in  1860,  Judge 
Howard,  then  Mayor  of  Portland,  entertained  the  Prince  of  Wales  (King 
Edward  VII). 

26.  The  Deane  House  (1821)  (private),  106  State  St.,  was  originally  a 
joiner's  shop  with  living  quarters  in  the  rear.    About  1821  it  was  re- 
modeled.  A  square  hip-roofed  frame  structure  with  a  long  ell  extending 
to  the  rear,  its  simple  charm  stands  out  in  contrast  to  the  more  elaborate 
and  ornate  appeal  of  its  neighbors.  Here  in  1825  was  born  Nathan  Webb, 
a  leading  jurist  of  Maine  and  U.S.  Circuit  Judge. 

27.  Saint  Luke's  Cathedral  (1855)  (open),  137  State  St.,  is  architecturally 
one  of  Portland's  finest  churches,  the  work  of  Henry  Vaughan,  distin- 
guished English  architect  who  also  drew  the  plans  for  Saint  Stephen's 
Church  in  Longfellow  Square.    The  cathedral,  of  early  English  Gothic 
design,  is  constructed  of  soft  blue  Cape  Elizabeth  ledge  stone.  Buttresses 
and  copings,  door  and  window  sills,  are  of  Nova  Scotia  freestone,  alter- 
nating in  red  and  gray.  One  of  the  outstanding  features  is  the  rose  window 
in  the  Sanctuary.    The  reredos,  an  unusually  beautiful  native  piece  of 
wood-carving,  was  done  by  Kirschmeyer,  considered  the  finest  wood- 
carver  in  the  world  at  the  time  (1925),  under  the  direction  of  the  noted 
church  architect,  Ralph  Adams  Cram.  In  the  Codman  Memorial  Chapel 
(1899)  is  a  'Madonna  and  Child,'  painted  by  John  La  Farge. 

28.  The  Milliken  House  (1802)  (private),  148  State  St.,  much  changed 
from  its  original  appearance,  was  built  by  Neal  Shaw,  a  rope-maker. 
Until  rope-making  machinery  came  into  use  the  strands  of  hemp,  in 
process  of  twisting,  had  to  be  pulled  taut  to  their  required  length.   The 
reaches  of  ground  over  which  the  rope  was  stretched  were  called  rope- 
walks.  Winter  St.,  parallel  with  State,  originated  as  a  ropewalk. 

29.  The  Old  Shepley  House  (1805)  (public  dining-room),  now  the  Portland 
Club,  162  State  St.,  is  the  best  preserved  of  the  State  Street  houses. 
Designed  from  sketches  by  Alexander  Parris  for  Richard  Hunnewell, 
this  three-story  post- Colonial  mansion  was  built  of  brick  with  frame  walls 
in  front  and  rear.   The  front  doorway  that  replaced  the  original  one  is 
especially  beautiful,  with  its  leaded  fan-light  and  side-lights.   Over  the 
door  is  an  interesting  Palladian  window.   The  interior  of  the  house  has 
elaborate  ceilings,  fine  paneling,  and  delicate  mantelpieces.  Many  of  the 
windows  retain  the  original  Belgian  glass  lights,  marked  with  bubbles 
and  other  imperfections.    On  one  window  on  the  second  floor  someone 
has  scratched  with  a  diamond  the  names  'Lucy,'  'Annie,'  'Nellie,'  and 
'General  George  Shepley,'  with  the  date  July  19,  1816, 


1 86  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

30.  The  Mellen-Fessenden  House  (1807),  now  the  Monastery  of  the 
Precious  Blood  (public  chapel),  166  State  St.,  its  former  post-Colonial 
charm  considerably  altered,  was  built  by  Prentiss  Mellen  (1764-1840), 
statesman,  U.S.  Senator,  and  Chief  Justice  of  Maine.  In  1848,  the  house 
came  into  the  possession  of  the  Hon.  William  Pitt  Fessenden  (1806-69), 
lawyer,  politician,  and  financier,  godson  of  Daniel  Webster  and  brother- 
in-law  of  Henry  W.  Longfellow.  He  served  in  the  House  of  Representa- 
tives and  Senate,  and  in  1864,  was  appointed  Secretary  of  the  Treasury 
by  President  Lincoln.  Lincoln  called  him  *  a  radical  without  the  petulant 
and  vicious  fretfulness  of  most  radicals.'    In  1934  the  house  was  made 
the  cloister  of  the  Catholic  Monastery  of  the  Precious  Blood,  and  seven 
Sister  Adorers  entered  the  building  at  the  time,  not  to  emerge  until 
death.  An  eighth  has  since  joined  them. 

31.  The  John  Neal  Houses  (1836)  (private),  173-175  State  St.,  are  im- 
pressively austere  structures  built  of  granite  blocks.   John  Neal  (1793- 
1876),  prominent  Portland  lawyer,  athlete,  and  poet,  and  a  prolific  writer, 
built  these  houses  and  settled  here  after  an  interestingly  diversified 
career  during  which,  at  one  time,  he  was  self-appointed  apostle  of  Ameri- 
can letters  in  London,  having  gone  there  for  the  purpose  of  proving  that 
there  really  existed  an  American  culture.  During  his  later  life  in  Portland 
he  greatly  influenced  many  artistically  gifted  young  people,  such  as  Paul 
Akers.  Number  173  was  at  one  time  the  home  of  the  Hon.  L.  D.  M.  Sweat. 

32.  The  Longfellow  Statue  (1888),  Longfellow  Sq.,  occupies  a  central 
position  at  the  junction  of  Congress,  State,  and  Pine  Sts.  The  seven-foot 
bronze  statue,  representing  the  poet  seated  in  an  armchair,  one  hand 
clasping  a  roll  of  manuscripts,  is  the  work  of  Franklin  Simmons  (see 
The  Arts)  and  cost  $8500.   The  statue,  a  faithful  portrait,  is  one  of  the 
city's  prized  possessions. 

L.  from  State  St.  on  Congress  St. 

33.  The  Neal  Dow  Homestead  (1824)  (private),  714  Congress  St.,  is  the 
home  built  by  the  ardent  prohibitionist  and  author  of  the  old  Maine 
prohibition  law,  opposite  his  birthplace,  717  Congress  St.    The  latter 
house  was  erected  in  1800.   Neal  Dow  (1804-97),  through  his  ceaseless 
activity,  aroused  statesmen  and  citizens  all  over  the  world  to  the  social 
ramifications  of  prohibition;  he  inaugurated  legislation  that  in  many 
sections  is  still  the  subject  of  political  controversy.   His  home,  a  sedate, 
comfortable-looking  brick  house,  painted  gray,  is  still  in  the  possession  of 
members  of  the  Dow  family,  and  many  of  the  rooms  are  kept  much  the 
same  as  when  the  great  agitator  lived  there.  On  an  escritoire  still  in  the 
library,  Dow  drafted  his  famous  Maine  law,  and  the  original  manuscript 
lies  there  today.  This  house,  so  it  is  expected,  will  become  a  museum  in 
the  hands  of  the  Women's  Christian  Temperance  Union  of  Maine,  to  the 
members  of  which  it  is  already  a  shrine. 


Portland  187 


TOUR  3  — 8.6m. 

E.  from  Monument  Sg.  on  Middle  St.;  R.  from  Middle  St.  on  India  St.;  L. 
from  India  St.  on  Fore  St. 

34.  Fort  Allen  Park,  junction  Fore  St.  and  Eastern  Promenade,  affords 
an  exceptional  and  unobstructed  view  of  Casco  Bay  and  its  islands.  Fort 
Allen,  named  for  Commander  William  Henry  Allen  of  the  sloop-of-war 
'Argus,'  who  was  killed  in  action  in  1813,  was  hastily  built  on  the  site  of 
previous  fortifications  in  1814  when  it  was  rumored  that  a  British  fleet 
was  approaching  Portland.  The  fort  mounted  five  guns  and  was  manned 
by  regular  soldiers  and  volunteers.    In  September,  1815,  between  5000 
and  6000  of  the  Cumberland  and  Oxford  County  Militia  were  encamped 
in  the  vicinity  of  these  fortifications  on  Munjoy  Hill.  It  was  doubtless  to 
these  that  Longfellow  referred  in  his  poem,  'My  Lost  Youth': 

*I  remember  the  bulwarks  by  the  shore, 

And  the  fort  upon  the  hill; 
The  sunrise  gun,  with  its  hollow  roar, 

The  drum-beat  repeated  o'er  and  o'er, 
And  the  bugle  wild  and  shrill.' 

Fort  Allen  Park  is  landscaped  with  evergreens  and  other  trees,  shrubbery, 
and  flower  beds.  Benches  line  the  cement  walks,  and  a  large  summer- 
house  where  band  concerts  are  often  held  during  the  summer  fronts  the 
harbor  mouth.  Two  large  Civil  War  cannon  face  seaward,  and  an  eroded 
cannon  recovered  from  the  U.S.  'Maine'  is  mounted  in  cement  on  a 
rough  ledge. 
L.  from  Fore  St.  on  Eastern  Promenade. 

Eastern  Promenade,  more  than  a  mile  long,  begins  at  Fore  St.  and  extends 
to  Washington  Ave.,  ranging  in  width  from  over  89  feet  to  nearly  150  feet. 
The  parkway  was  laid  out  in  1836,  when  it  was  suggested  that  scenic 
drives  be  built  along  the  heights  at  both  ends  of  the  city.  Graceful  trees 
arch  above  the  promenade,  and  a  circular  drive  has  been  added  to  allow 
the  motorist  a  more  leisurely  enjoyment  of  the  panoramic  view  of  the 
outer  harbor  and  Casco  Bay. 

35.  The  First  Civic  Monument  of  Portland,  a  graceful  shaft  of  granite, 
rises  opposite  the  eastern  end  of  Congress  St.  on  the  promenade.   This 
monument,  dedicated  in  1882,  commemorates  George  Cleeve  and  Richard 
Tucker,  the  founders  of  Portland,  and  records  four  names  the  city  has 
borne:  Machigonne,  Casco,  Falmouth  and  Portland. 

L.  from  Eastern  Promenade  on  North  St. 

36.  Fort  Sumner  Park,  60-80  North  St.,  is  the  site  of  fortifications  built 
in  1794  when  Congress  made  an  appropriation  for  coast  defense.  Named 
in  honor  of  Governor  Increase  Sumner  of  Massachusetts,  the  fort  had 
little  to  recommend  its  site  except  its  elevation;  during  the  War  of  1812  it 


1 88  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

was  found  necessary  to  erect  new  fortifications  near  the  waterfront.  In 
the  spring  of  1808  a  company  of  'sea  f enables'  was  organized  here  to  'do 
military  duty  at  Fort  Sumner':  sentinels  were  stationed  to  watch  for 
fires,  and  the  firing  of  a  cannon  was  to  be  the  signal  for  the  fire  bells' 
ringing. 

37.  The  Portland  Observatory  (not  open),  opposite  the  junction  of  North 
and  Congress  Sts.,  rises  82  feet  above  Munjoy  Hill.   A  heavy-timbered 
octagonal  structure  resembling  a  windmill,  with  io-by-i4  inch  corner 
posts  63  feet  long,  it  was  erected  in  1807  and  for  116  years  did  active 
service  in  informing  the  townspeople  of  approaching  ships  and  noting 
cases  of  distress  on  land  and  sea.   The  top  of  the  tower  is  estimated  to 
be  223  feet  above  sea  level;  the  builders  weighted  the  cribbing  above  the 
sill  with  122  tons  of  stone  to  hold  it  secure  against  Atlantic  gales.  From 
the  lantern  deck  of  the  tower  there  is  an  extensive  view  of  the  coast  from 
Wood  Island,  off  the  mouth  of  the  Saco  River,  to  Seguin,  off  the  mouth 
of  the  Kennebec,  while  inland  the  Presidential  Range  of  the  White 
Mountains  and  peaks  farther  south  are  visible.   A  lookout  was  once  on 
duty  from  sunrise  to  sunset,  and  flags  were  flown  from  the  observatory  to 
announce  homecoming  vessels.   President  James  Monroe  inspected 'the 
tower  during  his  two  days'  visit  to  Portland  in  1817.  The  structure  was 
pronounced  unsafe  in  1923  and  since  then  has  been  closed  to  visitors,  but 
observation  rooms  on  the  top  of  some  of  the  high  buildings  in  the  down- 
town section  adequately  take  its  place. 

R.  from  North  St.  on  Congress  St.;  R.  from  Congress  St.  on  Washington 
Ave.;  L.  from  Washington  Ave.  on  Baxter  Boulevard. 

Baxter  Boulevard,  an  automobile  route  circuiting  the  Back  Bay  section 
of  Portland,  gives  a  fine  skyline  view  of  the  city.  The  drive  passes  a 
sanctuary  for  migratory  game  birds,  mostly  black  ducks,  and  the  cove  is 
dotted  with  flocks  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  City  wardens  usually  have 
little  difficulty  protecting  these  birds,  but  boulevard  residents  once,  upon 
investigating  the  strange  actions  of  several  ducks  in  the  cove,  discovered 
a  most  ingenious  poacher.  They  noticed  live  birds  apparently  moored 
to  one  spot  by  a  string  attached  to  their  mouths.  It  seemed  someone 
with  a  fondness  for  duck  and  a  genius  for  invention  had  contrived  an 
elaborate  snare ;  he  laid  out  through  the  water  a  weighted  string  to  which 
was  attached  a  series  of  smaller  strings  on  floats  with  baited  fishhooks 
at  their  ends.  The  hapless  ducks  that  swallowed  the  hook  and  line  could 
only  swim  around  in  their  usual  way  within  a  small  radius.  A  casual 
observer  watching  them  would  suspect  nothing  amiss.  At  night  the 
poacher  arrived,  pulled  in  his  main  line,  and  carried  home  a  fine  covey 
of  birds. 

At  intersection  W.  end  Baxter  Boulevard  and  Forest  Ave.,  straight  to  Bedford 
St. 

38.  The  Deering  Mansion  (1804)  (private),  85  Bedford  St.,  one  of  Port- 
land's most  beautiful  and  best-preserved  old  houses,  is  particularly  in- 
teresting locally  because  it  has  been  continuously  the  home  of  the  Deer- 
ing  family,  descendants  of  Nathaniel  Deering,  a  shipbuilder,  who  came 


Portland  189 


here  from  Kittery  in  1761.  The  house  has  become  a  veritable  museum  of 
Portland  history.  It  is  furnished  much  as  it  was  and  is  kept  in  the  same 
condition  as  when  James  Deering  used  to  sail  out  to  sea  from  his  own 
wharf  in  the  field  below  his  house,  when  Back  Cove  waters  extended  over 
the  land  that  is  now  Deering's  Oaks. 
L.from  Bedford  St.  on  Deering  Ave.;  L.  into  Deering's  Oaks. 

39.  Deering's  Oaks,  lying  between  Deering  and  Forest  Aves.,  is  the 
largest  public  park  area  in  Portland.   Longfellow  found  that  'Deering's 
Woods  are  fresh  and  fair,'  and  so  they  have  remained  to  this  day.   Less 
than  a  century  ago  much  of  the  territory  now  occupied  by  the  Oaks  was 
still  part  of  Back  Cove,  and  a  bridge  along  Forest  Ave.,  built  in  1806, 
spanned  the  waters  directly  northeast  of  the  present  park  site.   In  1689 
the  park  was  the  scene  of  a  long  and  bloody  battle,  when  Major  Benjamin 
Church  and  his  men  succeeded  in  defending  the  town  and  routing  a  large 
force  of  Indians.    Deering's  Oaks  is  popular  at  all  seasons  of  the  year. 
In  summer  there  is  swan  boating  on  the  pond,  tennis  and  bowling  on  the 
green,  while  in  winter  the  park  is  a  rendezvous  for  skaters. 

R.  from  Deering's  Oaks  on  State  St.  to  Longfellow  Sq.;  R.  on  Pine  St.;  R. 
from  Pine  St.  on  West  St.  to  Western  Promenade. 

The  Western  Promenade,  extending  along  a  high  ridge  from  Danforth 
St.  to  Arsenal  St.,  is  the  counterpart  of  the  Eastern  Promenade  at  the 
opposite  end  of  the  city  and  was  planned  at  the  same  time.  Here  is  an 
excellent  panoramic  view  of  the  Presidential  Range  and  other  peaks, 
South  Portland,  and  Fore  River.  Directly  below  the  Promenade  on  St. 
John  St.  are  the  Maine  Central  R.R.  yards  and  Union  Station.  Along  the 
parkway  stand  some  of  the  finest  homes  of  the  city,  overlooking  a  rich 
spread  of  sward  traversed  by  walks  and  planted  with  flower  beds,  shade 
trees,  and  blossoming  shrubs. 

40.  A  Statue  of  Thomas  B.  Reed,  executed  in  bronze  by  Burr  C.  Miller, 
stands  midway  of  the  Promenade.    In  a  natural  posture  'Czar'  Reed 
dominates  the  scene  here  as  he  often  did  when  ruling  the  U.S.  House  of 
Representatives . 

L.  from  Western  Promenade  on  Bowdoin  St.;  L.  from  Bowdoin  St.  on 
Cliford  St.;  L.from  Cli/ord  St.  on  Thomas  St. 

41.  Williston  Congregational  Church  (1876),  32-38  Thomas  St.,  is  the 
birthplace  of  the  Society  of  Christian  Endeavor.   Here  in  1881  the  Rev. 
Francis  E.  Clark  conceived  the  idea  of  organizing  the  young  people  of 
the  world  into  one  body  for  greater  Christian  growth.  Twenty  years  later 
members  of  the  society  in  America,  Europe,  Africa,  and  Australia  joined 
in  placing  a  bronze  tablet  over  the  main  entrance  of  the  church  in  com- 
memoration of  the  founding  of  this  movement. 

OTHER  POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

42.  St.  Joseph's  Academy  (1881)  (open),  605  Stevens  Ave.  (3  m.  west  of 
city),  is  one  of  the  State's  most  distinguished  academies  for  girls.   Con- 
ducted by  the  Roman  Catholic  Sisters  of  Mercy,  its  courses,  of  study  run 


190  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

through  the  primary  and  high-school  grades  to  special  teachers'  and  busi- 
ness training  classes.  The  enrollment  is  about  90,  not  limited  denomi- 
nationally. The  extensive  grounds  of  the  convent,  which  includes  the 
academy,  formerly  the  gardens  of  a  large  private  estate,  are  of  great 
beauty.  St.  Joseph's  Convent  is  the  mother  house  of  the  Sisters  of  Mercy 
in  Maine. 

43.  The  Tate  House  (1755)  (open  on  application),  Westbrook  St.,  Stroud- 
water  (2.8  m.  west  of  city),  is  of  interest  historically  and  architecturally. 
Restored  by  the  Maine  Society  of  Colonial  Dames,  the  old  house,  much 
of  its  unusual  wood  paneling  said  to  have  been  brought  from  England, 
was  the  home  of  George  Tate,  mast  agent  for  the  English  Navy,  who 
supervised  the  purchase  and  delivery  of  timber  suitable  for  the  con- 
struction of  masts  and  spars,  reserving  with  'the  King's  Mark'  trees  of 
the  right  size  and  shape,  regardless  of  the  owners'  wishes.  Later  he  was 
employed  in  the  same  capacity  by  the  Czar  of  Russia.   A  son,  George 
Tate,  Jr.,  left  this  home  for  the  sea  and  subsequently  joined  the  Russian 
Navy,  spending  50  years  of  his  life  in  its  service  and  eventually  becoming 
its  First  Admiral  as  well  as  a  member  of  the  Imperial  Senate.  The  ex- 
terior of  this  house,  said  by  some  to  be  Portland's  oldest  dwelling,  has 
never  been  painted.    In  the  interior,  the  beautiful  wainscoting  retains 
the  gloss  of  its  original  white  paint,  and  there  are  fireplaces  in  nearly 
every  room,  one  of  which,  in  a  tiny  attic  chamber,  was  used  by  slaves. 
The  house  overlooks  the  site  of  the  old  mastyard  on  Fore  River. 

44.  The  Means  House  (private),  2  Waldo  St.,  Stroudwater,  has  an  in- 
terior even  more  exquisitely  paneled  than  the  Tate  house.  This  dwelling 
with  its  brick  ends  and  hip  roof  was  built  by  Major  James  Means  after 
his  return  from  the  Revolutionary  War,  and  it  is  said  that  he  lavished 
money  on  its  construction.  His  prodigality  is  manifest  today  in  the  deli- 
cate woodwork,  deep  windows,  and  stairways,  which  have  been  well 
preserved. 

Points  of  Interest  in  Environs: 

Casco  Bay  trips  (see  Island  Tours) ;  Cape  Elizabeth  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a). 


WATERVILLE 


City:  Alt.  95,  pop.  15,454,  sett,  about  1754,  incorp.  town  1802,  city  1883,  city 

charter  1888. 

Railroad  Station:  50  College  Ave.,  for  M.C.  R.R. 

Bus  Stations:  Elmwood  Hotel,  for  M.C.  Transportation  Co.  and  Triangle  Bus. 

Airport:  Municipal  Airport,  3  m.  from  Post  Office  Sq.  on  State  11,  for  B.  &  M. 

Airways;  reservations  at  M.C.  R.R.  Station. 


IN      TOWN      AND      CITY 


THE  peaceful  Common  before  the  old  Wiscasset  Courthouse 
contrasts  sharply  with  the  modern  business  areas  of  Maine's 
cities  in  this  picture  group.  Yet  many  Maine  towns  have  not 
grown  so  much  as  to  have  changed  greatly  in  the  past  century; 
many,  no  doubt,  resemble  today  the  Machias  here  pictured  as 
it  looked  to  the  local  artist  more  than  eighty  years  ago.  As 
a  matter  of  fact,  the  tranquillity  of  the  old  Village  Green  is 
found  in  the  State's  very  heart  —  in  the  atmosphere  of  the 
Bulfinch-designed  capitol  set  in  its  flowing  lawns  and  beauti- 
fully kept  shrubbery,  in  that  of  the  Elaine  House,  as  appro- 
priate a  symbol  for  Maine's  tradition  of  gracious  hospitality 
as  the  Jed  Prouty  Tavern  and  its  counterparts  have  been  for 
years  symbols  of  Maine  cheer.  Even  in  the  centers  of  the 
other  large  cities  there  can  be  found  the  quality  of  peace  and 
serenity  that  is  evident  in  the  pictures  of  the  swans  at  Deer- 
ing's  Oaks  and  of  Lewiston's  canal.  And,  finally,  there  is  no 
greater  feeling  of  peace  to  be  found  anywhere  in  New  England 
than  that  which  pervades  its  historic  old  graveyards,  which, 
more  often  than  not,  are  the  centralizing  feature  of  the  small 
town. 


VVISCASSET  COURTHOUSE 


SWANS  AT  DEERING  S  OAKS,  PORTLAND 


CANAL,  ANDROSCOGGIN  MILLS,  LKWISTON 


JED  PROUTY  TAVERN,  BUCKSPORT 


ANDROSCOGGIN  RIVER  AT  RUMFORD 


^^MMi 


5-*^r' 


PIP  < 


'•'  AST   M  ACH  \  AS, 


PHOTOGRAPH  OF  PAINTING 


HEART  OF  BANGOR 


PORTLAND  BUSINESS  AREA 


OLD  CEMETERY  AT  WALDOBORO 


BLAINE  HOUSE  (GOVERNOR *S  MANSION),  AUGUSTA 


3  "1  "I 

li 


THE  CAPITOL  AT  AUGUSTA 


Waterville  191 


Accommodations:  Four  hotels. 

Information  Service:  Waterville- Winslow  Chamber  of  Commerce,  13  Appleton 

St. 

Swimming:  Municipal  Pool,  North  St. 

Annual  Events:  Winter  Carnival,  Feb.;  Colby  College,  intercollegiate  sport* 

events. 

WATERVILLE,  lying  on  a  broad  terraced  plain  along  the  west  bank  oi 
the  Kennebec  River  at  Ticonic  Falls,  is  the  seat  of  Colby  College  and  an 
industrial  center  and  railroad  terminal.  The  stir  of  a  manufacturing  com- 
munity is  leavened  by  the  quiet  atmosphere  of  a  college  town  and  of  th« 
pleasant  residential  areas  stretching  westward  to  the  near-by  countryside, 
Factories  lie  close  to  the  river,  established  on  those  Waterville  shores 
which  have  witnessed  so  much  in  the  past:  the  vivid  life  of  a  large  Indian 
village  across  the  river  and  the  solemnities  of  Indian  burial  parties  on  the 
site  of  present  day  Waterville;  the  struggles  of  the  discontented  soldiery 
at  Fort  Halifax  in  the  winter  of  1755  who,  'being  in  a  manner  naked,' 
waited  miserably  for  shoes,  clothing,  and  supplies  to  be  dragged  up-river 
from  Fort  Western  at  Augusta;  the  shrill  echoes  from  the  snorting, 
puffing  river  steamers  that  churned  their  way  to  the  city  a  century  ago; 
and  the  thundering  of  logs,  plunging  over  Ticonic  Falls  after  their  mad 
dash  through  the  Five  Mile  Rips  above  the  city,  in  the  great  days  of  the 
river-drivers. 

While  the  falls  of  the  Kennebec  provide  power  for  the  operation  of  Water- 
ville mills,  the  drainage  basins  in  the  vicinity  (i.e.,  those  of  the  Kennebec, 
Messalonskee  Stream  west  of  the  city,  and  the  Sebasticook  River  at 
Winslow)  are  equally  important  in  the  agricultural  life  of  the  region. 
There  are  numerous  farms  in  the  suburbs  that  supply  dairy  and  farm 
produce  for  the  larger  city  markets,  as  well  as  garden  crops  for  local 
consumption.  A  worsted  and  a  cotton  mill,  employing  about  875  workers, 
are  two  of  the  city's  chief  industrial  establishments.  A  shirt  factory  and 
an  iron  foundry,  the  oldest  of  Waterville's  active  industries,  employ  most 
of  the  remainder  of  the  working  population. 

Ethnologically,  Waterville  presents  an  interesting  racial  grouping  some- 
what similar  to  that  of  other  Maine  manufacturing  towns.  Approxi- 
mately 40  per  cent  of  the  population  is  of  English  ancestry  while  another 
40  per  cent  is  of  French-Canadian,  and  15  per  cent  is  of  Syrian,  descent. 
The  French-Canadians,  or  Franco-Americans,  who  have  supplied  the 
greatest  growth  in  Waterville's  population  during  the  •  past  century, 
began  to  arrive  in  1827.  Later,  they  came  in  increasing  numbers  as  the 
cotton  and  woolen  mills  were  established.  The  majority  of  these  people 
have  their  own  community  in  the  district  known  as  '  The  Plains '  south  of 
the  business  district.  Although  they  have  retained  their  language  and 
many  of  their  customs,  and  have  their  own  churches,  parochial  schools, 
and  newspaper,  the  French  elements  have  assimilated  the  English  lan- 
guage and  customs,  and  figure  largely  in  the  social,  economic,  and  politi- 
cal life  of  the  city.  The  Syrian  population,  concentrated  along  Front  St. 


192  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

and  lower  Union  St.,  was  first  attracted  to  the  city  during  the  latter  part 
of  the  nineteenth  century  by  opportunities  for  work  on  the  railroads  and 
in  the  railroad  repair  shops. 

Waterville's  history  was  nearly  identical  with  that  of  Winslow  until 
1802.  The  Canibas  tribe  of  Indians,  maintaining  a  large  village  along  the 
banks  of  the  Sebasticook  and  Kennebec  Rivers  opposite  Waterville  long 
before  the  coming  of  the  English,  held  the  central  territory  of  the  Abnakis 
and  were  surrounded  by  sub-tribes  of  allied  blood.  The  Jesuits  had 
already  begun  their  successful  missionary  work  among  the  Indians  but  a 
few  miles  farther  north  at  Norridgewock,  penetrating  the  State  from 
Canada,  when  the  first  English  trading  post  was  established  in  1653  at 
Teconnet,  as  the  Indians  called  the  Waterville- Winslow  region.  Success- 
ful trading  relations  were  sustained  until  the  outbreak  of  Indian  wars  in 
1675,  and  for  seventy-five  years  thereafter  the  Indians  are  reputed  to 
have  used  the  first  trading  post  and  two  successive  ones  as  forts. 
The  construction  of  Fort  Halifax,  forming  the  frontier  and  northernmost 
line  of  English  defense  on  the  river,  was  begun  in  1754.  With  the  fortifi- 
cations as  yet  incomplete,  Captain  William  Lithgow  wrote  Governor 
Shirley  of  Massachusetts  concerning  the  state  of  affairs  at  Fort  Halifax 
in  January,  1755,  an^  reported  that  'the  men  in  general  seem  very  low 
in  spirits,  which  I  impute  to  their  wading  so  much  in  ye  water,  in  ye 
summer  and  fall,  which  I  believe  has  very  much  hurt  ye  circulation  of 

their  blood  and  filled  it  full  of  gross  humors '  Like  the  Indian  village 

before  it,  the  fort  was  strategically  placed  near  the  confluence  of  the 
Sebasticook  and  the  Kennebec;  thus,  the  Penobscot  Indians  were  cut  off 
from  their  travel  route  by  way  of  the  Sebasticook  and  connecting  water- 
ways to  the  Kennebec,  and  the  war  council  meeting-grounds  at  Teconnet. 
The  fort  also  commanded  the  vital  Indian  route  northward  to  Quebec  by 
way  of  the  Kennebec  and  the  Chaudiere  River.  However,  despite  the 
hardships  and  '  gross  humors '  of  the  Halifax  garrison,  the  fort  was  never 
attacked  by  French  or  Indians;  it  was  dismantled,  with  the  exception  of 
one  blockhouse,  in  1763.  During  the  decade  of  military  occupation,  con- 
tact was  maintained  between  Teconnet  and  the  settlements  to  the  south 
by  a  military  (carriage  width)  road  cut  through  the  wilderness  to  Augusta, 
and  by  whale-boat  express  to  Portland.  The  scattered  settlements  of  the 
upper  Kennebec  were  too  young  and  unorganized  to  give  much  aid  dur- 
ing the  Revolution,  yet  the  men  of  Teconnet  did  assist  Benedict  Arnold 
and  his  force  in  1775  when  they  made  their  one- third  mile  portage 
around  Teconnet  Falls. 
By  1800,  it  was  becoming  increasingly  difficult  to  govern  satisfactorily 


WATERVILLE.  POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  Colby  College  Campus  and  Build-  4.  Redington  Museum 

ings  5.  Old  Indian  Burial  Ground 

2.  Coburn  Classical  Institute  6.  Ticonic  Falls 

3.  Mayflower  Hill 


WAT  ;RVI 


194  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

the  settlements  that  had  grown  up  on  both  sides  of  the  Kennebec,  Wins- 
low  and  Waterville.  Church  services  and  town  meetings  were  held 
alternately,  and  a  double  set  of  officials,  including  two  tax  collectors, 
caused  dissension.  A  petition  for  separation  was  presented  to  the 
General  Court  of  Massachusetts,  and  in  1802  Waterville,  taking  its 
name  from  the  English  'water'  and  the  French  'ville,'  was  incorporated 
as  a  town,  with  a  population  of  800.  The  new  town  grew  rapidly,  con- 
tributing towards  the  early  nineteenth-century  development  of  the 
Kennebec  River  valley.  Passenger  and  freight  service  on  the  river  was 
inaugurated  in  1832  by  the  steamship  'Ticonic,'  and  competition  in 
river  traffic  soon  became  so  keen  that  the  fare  from  Waterville  to  Boston 
was  only  one  dollar.  Despite  the  low  steamship  rate,  the  building  of  the 
Androscoggin  &  Kennebec  Railroad  in  1849  and  the  completion  of  the 
railroad  to  Portland  and  Bangor  six  years  later  precipitated  the  extinc- 
tion of  water-borne  commerce  up  and  down  the  Kennebec.  The  city's 
minor  industries  and  small  grist,  corn,  and  lumber  mills  began  to  decline 
in  importance  after  the  Civil  War.  In  1873,  ^ve  years  after  the  construc- 
tion of  the  dam  at  Ticonic  Falls,  the  first  of  Waterville's  large-scale 
manufactories  was  established. 

One  of  the  most  important  events  in  Waterville's  history  took  place  in 
1813  when,  upon  the  petitions  of  prominent  Baptists  in  the  State,  a 
charter  was  granted  to  the  Maine  Literary  and  Theological  Institution. 
Five  years  later,  the  '  Rev.  Jeremiah  Chaplin,  with  his  family  and  seven 
students  from  Danvers,  Mass.'  ventured  up  the  Kennebec,  traveling  by 
sloop  to  Augusta  and  thence  by  long-boats  to  Waterville,  and  began  the 
theological  department  of  the  institution;  and  thus  the  nucleus  of  Colby 
College  was  formed.  The  power  to  bestow  degrees  was  granted  by  the 
legislature  in  1820,  and  the  following  year  the  name  was  changed  to 
Waterville  College.  The  theological  department  was  short-lived,  having 
been  discontinued  after  1825.  In  gratitude  for  a  gift  of  $50,000  and  other 
benefactions  from  Gardner  Colby,  a  Boston  merchant  and  prominent 
Baptist  layman,  the  name  of  the  college  was  changed  to  'Colby  Uni- 
versity' in  1867.  It  became  co-educational  in  1871,  and  as  such  is  now 
a  small  liberal  arts  college  of  about  six  hundred  students. 
The  roster  of  Colby  College  graduates  is  distinguished  for  its  list  of 
seventy-one  foreign  missionaries  in  addition  to  thirty-nine  college  presi- 
dents, and  numbers  of  ambassadors,  generals,  Senators,  and  Congress- 
men. One  of  the  earliest  of  Colby's  noteworthy  graduates  was  George 
Dana  Boardman  (1801-31),  a  pioneer  missionary  to  Burma  and  one  of  the 
two  members  of  the  college's  first  graduating  class  in  1822.  Elijah  Parish 
Lovejoy  (1802-37),  a  graduate  in  1825,  was  a  prominent  newspaper 
editor,  strongly  anti-slavery  in  his  views  and  a  courageous  advocate  of 
freedom  of  the  press.  First  in  Missouri  and  then  in  Illinois,  Lovejoy 
expressed  his  convictions  in  the  face  of  threats  and  mob  violence.  Shot 
by  a  mob  of  pro-slavery  rioters  in  Alton,  Illinois,  twenty-four  years  before 
the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War,  his  death  aroused  widespread  attention 
in  the  North  and  made  Lovejoy  one  of  the  earliest  martyrs  in  the  cause 
of  freedom  for  slaves.  Benjamin  Butler,  Civil  War  general,  Governor  of 


Waterville  195 


Massachusetts,  and  a  figure  in  National  politics,  was  graduated  with  the 
Colby  Class  of  1838. 

The  activities  of  several  Waterville  citizens  have  supplemented  the 
cultural  life  of  a  college  town.  Robert  B.  Hall  (1858-1907),  a  native  of 
Bowdoinham  and  one  of  Maine's  most  prominent  musicians,  became  a 
Waterville  resident  in  1890.  Hall's  compositions  include  about  seventy- 
five  band  marches,  many  of  which  are  played  all  over  the  country.  Samuel 
Francis  Smith  (1808-95),  at  one  time  pastor  of  the  First  Baptist  Church, 
Waterville,  and  professor  of  modern  languages  at  Colby,  wrote  the  verses 
of  the  anthem  America,  the  tune  of  which  he  found  while  glancing  through 
a  book  of  German  melodies;  the  melody  itself  is  identical  with  that  of 
the  English  'God  Save  the  King.'  Professor  Smith  also  composed  'The 
Morning  Light  Is  Breaking.' 


TOUR  — 3.5m. 

N.from  Post  Office  Sg.  on  College  Ave. 

i.  Colby  College  Campus  and  Buildings  (information  and  directions  at 
college  library,  first  floor,  Memorial  Hall}  lie  along  the  east  side  of  College 
Ave.,  opposite  and  facing  the  M.C.  R.R.  Station. 

At  the  southern  end  of  the  campus  is  Memorial  Hall.  Erected  (1869) 
in  honor  of  the  Colby  students  killed  in  the  Civil  War,  and  allegedly  one 
of  the  first  Civil  War  memorial  buildings  in  the  North,  the  rubblestone 
and  granite  hall  was  designed  by  Alexander  R.  Estey  of  Boston.  The 
style  is  modified  Norman.  On  the  second  floor  a  reproduction  of  the 
'Lion  of  Lucerne,'  sculptured  in  marble  by  Millmore,  surmounts  a 
polished  slab  bearing  the  names  of  Colby's  Civil  War  dead.  The  building 
contains  many  portraits,  sculptures  and  objects  of  historic  interest. 
Memorial  Hall  is  now  used  as  a  library  and  chapel. 
North  of  Memorial  Hall  lies  South  College  (1821),  the  oldest  campus 
building.  A  bell  hanging  in  the  hall  was  cast  at  the  Paul  Revere  foundry 
in  1824.  Among  the  several  college  legends  associated  with  the  bell  is 
one  concerning  its  travels.  The  bell  was  once  removed  by  college  students, 
shipped  by  freight  collect  to  Harvard,  and  thence  by  the  same  means  to 
the  University  of  Virginia;  the  Virginia  students  in  their  turn  dispatched 
it  to  Her  Majesty,  Queen  Victoria,  via  New  York,  where  it  was  finally 
traced  by  Colby  authorities  as  it  rested  on  a  wharf  preparatory  to  being 
loaded  aboard  a  sailing  packet. 

Champlin  Hall  (1836),  next  north  of  South  Hall,  a  square,  plain  red-brick 
structure  typical  of  early  nineteenth-century  college  buildings,  was 
designed  by  Thomas  U.  Walter,  architect  for  the  Capitol  extension, 
Washington. 

North  College  (1822),  north  of  South  Hall,  is  a  fraternity  house.  Like 
South  College  and  Champlin  Hall,  North  is  a  simply  designed,  two-story 
building  of  red  brick,  with  stone  and  wood  trim. 


196  Seaports  and  River  Towns 

Northwest  on  the  campus  is  Coburn  Hall  (1872),  which  houses  a  mounted 
collection  of  local  birds,  Maine  minerals,  and  rocks.  The  two-story  stone 
building  is  of  modified  Norman  style  and  has  a  cupola. 

Numerous  residential  halls,  dormitories,  and  fraternity  houses  are  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  campus,  particularly  along  College  Avenue. 

Retrace  to  Post  Office  Sq.;  R.  on  Elm  St. 

2.  Coburn  Classical  Institute,  Elm  St.,  is  a  private  college  preparatory 
school  founded  in  1829  as  Waterville  Academy,  and  maintained  under 
the  auspices  of  Colby  College  until  its  incorporation  under  its  own  name 
in  1901.  In  1883  Governor  Abner  Coburn  of  Skowhegan  gave  the  present 
school  building  as  a  memorial  to  his  brother  and  nephew.  The  red-brick 
building  of  indeterminate  architectural  design  is  surmounted  with  a  tower. 
A  circular  dome  was  added  in  1893  and  equipped  as  an  astronomical 
observatory. 

Retrace  to  Post  Office  Sq.;  L.  on  Oilman  St. 

3.  Mayflower  Hill,  the  site  of  the  new  Colby  College  Campus  comprises 
500  acres  of  land  presented  to  the  college  by  the  citizens  of  Waterville 
at  a  cost  of  $100,000.   The  present  campus,  having  become  so  restricted 
that  expansion  is  impossible,  is  to  be  relocated  on  the  northern  and 
eastern  slopes,  which  command  views  of  the  city,  of  Mt.  Blue  to  the  west 
and  adjoining  summits,  and  Messalonskee  Stream  to  the  southwest. 
Landscaping  has  begun  with  the  assistance  of  the  Works  Progress  Ad- 
ministration, although  the  construction  of  the  new  college  buildings,  at  an 
estimated  cost  of  $3,000,000,  has  not  yet  been  started  (1937).  The  new 
buildings,  featured  by  a  library  with  a  i8o-foot  tower  which  is  to  be  illu- 
minated by  flood  lights,  will  be  of  modified  Georgian  Colonial  design. 

Retrace  to  Junction  of  Oilman  St.  and  Western  Ave.;  R.  on  Silver  St. 

4.  Redington  Museum  (open  weekdays  except  Mon.  8-12,  2-4),  64  Silver 
St.,  presented  to  the  Waterville  Historical  Society  in  1927,  was  built  in 
1814  by  William  Redington,  a  Revolutionary  soldier  who  underwent  the 
hardships  of  the  winter  at  Valley  Forge.   It  is  a  white  frame  two-story 
Colonial  building,  with  green  shutters  and  granite  foundation.   On  the 
front  of  the  house,  four  Ionic  columns  support  a  portico  with  an  orna- 
mental balustrade.  A  few  pieces  of  furniture  that  belonged  to  the  grand- 
father of  the  builder  have  been  retained.    Museum  pieces  exhibited  in- 
clude Wedgwood  ware,  a  watchman's  rattle  used  in  Boston  when  the 
Common  was  still  a  cow  pasture,  wood  from  the  Connecticut  Charter 
Oak,  and  a  number  of  old  maps  and  books. 

R.  from  Silver  St.  on  Main  St. 

5.  An  Old  Indian  Burial  Ground  once  extended  from  what  is  now  Temple 
Street  to  the  site  of  the  Lockwood  Cotton  mills.   In  1905  six  skeletons 
were  unearthed  at  the  junction  of  Main  and  Water  Streets,  while  in  the 
same  year  the  remains  of  an  Indian,  buried  in  a  sitting  position,  numerous 
implements  and  about  two  quarts  of  copper  beads,  were  found  when  the 
foundations  for  the  Crescent  Hotel  block  were  being  prepared. 


Waterville  197 


L.  from  Main  St.  to  Ticonic  Bridge. 

6.  Ticonic  Falls,  prominent  in  Waterville's  history  and  industrial  growth, 
are  visible  from  Ticonic  Bridge  between  Waterville  and  Winslow.  Since 
the  first  bridge  was  thrown  across  the  Kennebec  at  this  point  in  1824,  the 
destructive  force  of  flood  waters  has  necessitated  either  total  or  partial 
reconstruction  of  the  bridge  on  six  occasions. 

Points  of  Interest  in  Environs: 

Fort  Halifax,  1.1  m.,  Winslow  (see  Tour  10);  China  Lake,  8  m., 
China  (see  Tour  13). 


III.   HIGH   ROADS   AND 
LOW   ROADS 


TOUR      1  :     From  NEW  HAMPSHIRE  LINE  (Portsmouth)  to 
CANADIAN  LINE  (Clair,  N.B.),  551.8  m.,  US  1. 


Via  (sec.  a)  York  Corner,  Wells,  Kennebunk,  Biddeford,  Saco,  Portland,  Fal- 
mouth  Foreside,  Yarmouth,  Brunswick;  (sec.  b)  Bath,  Wiscasset,  Thomaston, 
Rockland,  Camden,  Belfast;  (sec.  c)  Searsport,  Winterport,  Hampden,  Bangor, 
Brewer,  Lucerne-in-Maine,  Ellsworth;  (sec.  d)  Cherryfield,  Machias,  Robbin- 
ston,  Calais;  (sec.  e)  Woodland,  Danforth,  Hodgdon,  Houlton,  Littleton, 
Bridgewater,  Mars  Hill,  Presque  Isle,  Caribou,  Van  Buren,  Fort  Kent. 

Hard-surfaced  roadbed,  three-lane  at  southern  end.  Northern  sections  some- 
times impassable  during  winter  storms. 

US  1  in  Maine  runs  close  to  the  coast  from  one  end  of  the  State  to  the 
other,  turns  north  along  the  Canadian  boundary,  and  finally  doubles 
back  west  along  the  St.  John  River.  It  runs  through  resort  areas,  rolling 
and  rocky  farm  land,  through  primitive  forests,  and  along  the  banks  of 
broad  rivers;  it  crosses  high  hills  —  locally  called  mountains  —  and  blue- 
berry plains.  It  connects  the  two  ends  of  the  25oo-mile  coast  line,  which 
are  but  225  miles  apart  by  air  line.  It  is  this  lower  part  of  the  route  that  is 
most  frequented;  the  broken  and  jagged  coast  has  a  picturesque  charm 
that  has  made  it  a  favorite  with  summer  travelers.  South  of  Maine,  land 
and  sea  have  few  rigid  boundaries;  the  waves  encroach  and  retreat,  the 
land  is  washed  away  and  built  up.  But  on  the  Maine  coast  land  and  sea 
meet  abruptly;  that  old  devil  sea  at  times  comes  dashing  in  as  though  it 
had  been  gathering  force  halfway  around  the  earth  to  break  the  stubborn, 
granite  headlands;  it  attacks  with  a  roar,  retreats,  and  returns  to  attack 
again. 

There  are  two  coasts  of  Maine.  The  coast  known  to  most  visitors  has 
spruce-tipped  hills  and  hard  beaches  dappled  with  the  red,  orange,  green, 
blue,  and  white  raiment  of  visitors,  blue-green  waters  broken  by  tilting 
sails  and  the  wakes  of  speeding  motorboats,  and  a  brilliant  blue  sky.  The 
inhabitants  of  this  land  work  night  and  day  running  hotels,  boarding- 
houses,  tourist  camps,  and  lunch  stands,  piloting  fishing  and  sightseeing 
boats,  trying  in  a  brief  season  to  earn  the  wherewithal  to  keep  their 
families  during  the  rest  of  the  year. 

The  second  coast  of  Maine  is  for  four  or  five  months  muffled  in  snow; 
travel  is  at  times  difficult  and  most  hotels  and  many  of  the  rooms  in 
homes  are  closed.  But  this  Maine  has  its  own  charm.  The  rural  in- 
habitants, even  though  striving  to  add  to  their  limited  incomes,  have 
time  to  relax  and  they  accept  the  comparatively  few  visitors  as  members 
of  their  families,  telling  them  long  stories  of  grandfathers  and  uncles  who 
never  returned  from  the  sea,  of  the  great-aunt  who  heard  voices,  and 
other  tales  characteristic  of  a  country  that  part  of  the  year  has  almost 
pioneer  isolation.  There  are  other  rewards  for  the  visitor  who  comes  to 
this  coast  out  of  season.  The  chowder  and  baked  beans,  made  in  family 


>v>. . 

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2O4  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

quantities  and  eaten  after  strenuous  climbs  over  snowy  hills,  have  a 
flavor  unknown  to  summer  visitors;  the  headlands,  snow-crowned,  take 
on  an  icy  glaze  that  sharpens  their  strange  silhouettes;  and  the  sea  makes 
acrobatic  assaults  that  cause  the  very  rocks  to  tremble.  But  the  glory  of 
this  Maine  is  its  sky,  unreal  saffron  after  the  gray  light  that  comes  before 
the  dawn,  blue  as  Persian  tiles  for  a  brief  time  at  midday,  and  an  unearthly 
pale  green  streaked  with  rose  in  the  late  afternoon,  turning  the  snow  pale 
heliotrope  with  purple  shadows. 

Sec.  a.  NEW  HAMPSHIRE  LINE  (Portsmouth)  to  BRUNSWICK, 
76.9  m. 

This  section  of  US  1  is  the  main  artery  of  entrance  and  exit  from  the  State 
of  Maine.  The  southern  part  runs  through  pleasant  farm  lands  broken 
occasionally  by  pine  groves,  with  open  ocean  (R)  never  far  distant  and 
often  visible  across  wide  stretches  of  marshland.  Side  routes  branch  (R)  to 
historic  and  scenic  spots  on  coastal  peninsulas  where  the  inhabitants  are 
for  the  most  part  descendants  of  early  fishermen  and  seamen,  gaining  their 
livelihoods  from  the  summer  colonists  and  tourists. 

US  1  crosses  the  New  Hampshire  Line,  0  m.,  in  the  center  of  the  Ports- 
mouth-Kittery  Memorial  Bridge. 

Left  at  the  east  end  of  the  bridge  is  a  granite  monument  with  a  bronze 

plaque  bearing  the  following  inscription: 

THE  PROVINCE  OF  MAINE.  Originally  extending  from  the  Merrimac 
to  the  Kennebec  Rivers,  was  granted  Aug.  loth  1622  to  Sir  Ferdinando 
Gorges  and  John  Mason,  by  The  Council  for  New  England,  established  at 
Plymouth  in  1635  when  Gorges  received  the  Eastern  portion  extending 
from  the  Piscataqua  to  the  Kennebec,  which  thereafter  retained  the 
original  name  of  the  Province  of  Maine. 

Right  at  0.5  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  tarred  road  (see  Tour  L4). 
At  6.7  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  tarred  road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  the  Mclntire  Garrison  House  (private),  3.7  m.  (L),  built  between 
1640  and  1645  by  Alexander  Maxwell  and  restored  in  1909  by  John  R.  Mclntire. 
As  was  customary  in  early  garrisons,  the  second  story  overhangs  the  first  so  that 
beleaguered  defenders  could  pour  hot  pitch  and  grease  upon  the  enemy  below. 
The  building  is  constructed  of  heavy  timbers  interlocking  at  the  corners  and 
sheathed  on  the  outside  with  weather-beaten  shingles. 

YORK  CORNER  (alt.  60,  York  Town,  pop.  2538),  6.9  m.  The  Maine 
Publicity  Bureau  Information  Building  is  R. 

At  10.6  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  1A  (see  Tour  L4). 

CAPE  NEDDICK  (alt.  50,  York  Town),  10.8  m.  Noticeable  in  this  area 
are  the  well-built  stone  fences  and  rolling  farm  lands  of  southern  Maine, 
with  rock  outcroppings  typical  of  the  New  England  glacial  terrain. 

Right  from  Cape  Neddick,  on  a  winding  gravel  road;  right  at  0.5  m.  and  again 
right  at  0.9  m. ;  the  road  passes  through  heavily  forested  country  broken  by  summer 
estates  and  has  splendid  vistas  of  the  ocean.  The  coast  line  becomes  more  rocky  as 
the  tip  of  the  cape  is  reached. 

At  3.2  m.  is  the  Episcopal  Memorial  Stone  Church  with  bell  in  an  arch  of  the  roof 
over  its  entrance.  The  church  stands  on  a  cliff  overlooking  the  sea. 


TOUR  1 :    From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  205 

At  3.3  w.  is  a  trail  to  Bald  Head  Cliffs,  against  which  the  surf  pounds  continuously. 
At  3.7  m.  is  the  entrance  to  the  Ogunquit  Cliff  Country  Club. 

At  5  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  road  (R)  leading  0.2  m.  to  Perkins  Cove  and  its  art 
colony.    Grouped  about  the  art  school  are  small  individualistically  decorated 
cottages.   The  village  abounds  with  art  and  antique  shops  and  has  several  gaily 
decorated  Chinese  restaurants. 
At  5.9  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  1  in  OGUNQUIT  (see  below). 

At  12.8  m.  (L)  on  a  hill  is  a  revolving  Airplane  Beacon. 

At  14.1  m.  (R)  is  the  new  Ogunquit  Playhouse  (see  below). 

At  14.5  m.  is  a  junction  with  Agamenticus  Road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  a  camp  site,  5.7  m.,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Agamenticus  (alt. 
692),  where  the  Indian  '  Saint'  Aspinquid  was  buried.  This,  the  highest  of  the  hills 
in  this  relatively  low  area,  long  used  as  a  point  of  navigation  in  the  days  of  square- 
riggers,  is  still  so  used  by  coastal  vessels.  A  i5-minute  climb  from  the  camp  site 
along  a  bridle  trail  leads  to  the  Fire  Lookout  Station,  from  which  is  an  extensive 
view  of  the  sea  in  one  direction  with  Boon  Island  Light  in  the  distance. 

According  to  tradition,  in  April,  1682,  the  'Increase/  a  trader  between  Plymouth 
and  Pemaquid,  was  wrecked  on  an  offshore  island,  its  only  survivors,  three  white 
men  and  one  Indian,  existing  as  best  they  could  on  the  rocky  shores.  They  were 
nearly  ready  to  give  up  hope  of  rescue  when  one  day  in  May  they  saw  smoke  rising 
from  the  summit  of  Agamenticus.  This  smoke  was  that  of  the  burnt  offerings  of 
hundreds  of  Indians  from  all  over  Maine,  converts  of  Aspinquid,  who  was  a  disciple 
of  John  Eliot;  they  had  brought  deer,  moose,  fish,  and  even  rattlesnakes  to 
sacrifice  in  the  flames  to  the  memory  of  their  departed  leader.  Heartened  by  the 
smoke  that  indicated  the  presence  of  people  on  the  mainland,  the  castaways  gath- 
ered driftwood  and  themselves  built  a  huge  fire  which  attracted  rescuers  from  the 
mainland.  In  gratitude  for  their  salvation,  it  is  said,  the  men  named  the  island 
Boon.  Boon  Island  Light  was  erected  here  in  1811. 

OGUNQUIT  (alt.  60,  Wells  Town),  14.9  m.,  noted  for  many  years  only  as 
a  fishing  village  in  a  particularly  beautiful  situation,  now  has  16  hotels 
and  is  known  for  its  colony  of  artists  and  actors. 

The  summer  theater  group,  one  of  the  largest  in  Maine,  has  been  under 
the  direction  of  Walter  Hartwig  for  several  years,  and  has  nationally 
known  stage  and  screen  stars  as  guest  artists.  During  the  season  a  new 
play  is  presented  each  week.  The  Workshop,  an  interesting  development 
that  attracts  students  of  the  theater  from  all  sections  of  the  country, 
makes  several  presentations  during  the  summer. 

Among  the  many  recreations  here  is  fishing  for  tuna  (see  Sports  and 
Recreation:  Salt  Water  Fishing),  which  has  become  popular  along  the 
southern  Maine  coast  in  recent  years. 

At  Ogunquit  is  the  junction  with  a  branch  road  to  Cape  Neddick  (see 

above). 

Between  Ogunquit  and  Wells  are  (R)  many  glimpses  of  sand  dunes, 

beaches,  and  the  ocean.   This  section  of  US  1  is  highly  commercialized, 

appealing  to  tourist  trade  with  road  stands,  restaurants,  and  cabins. 

The  First  Congregational  Church,  18.6  m.  (L),  stands  on  the  site  of  the  first 
church  building  in  Wells,  which  was  organized  about  1643  by  the  Rever- 
end John  Wheelwright,  who  shared  the  beliefs  of  Anne  Hutchinson,  the 
English  nonconformist.  Wheelwright,  who  had  been  exiled  from  Massa- 


206  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

chusetts,  settled  at  Exeter,  but,  when  that  was  declared  to  be  under  the 
jurisdiction  of  Massachusetts,  he  migrated  to  this  town  with  his  family. 
About  1646  he  made  his  peace  with  Massachusetts  and  returned  to 
Boston.  While  a  student  at  Oxford  University  he  was  apparently  notable 
as  an  athlete,  for  Oliver  Cromwell,  his  classmate  there,  said  later  in  life 
that  he  had  never  felt  as  much  fear  before  any  army  as  before  Wheelwright 
in  competitive  sports.  The  church  he  helped  build  at  Wells  was  burned 
by  the  Indians  in  1692. 

At  18.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  improved  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  WELLS  BEACH  (alt.  20,  Wells  Town),  1  m.,  a  popular 
resort  with  a  good  bathing  beach. 

At  19  m.  (R)  is  the  Joseph  Storer  Garrison  House  (private),  where  15 
soldiers  withstood  a  2-day  siege  by  500  French  and  Indians  in  1692.  It  is  a 
weather-beaten,  yellow,  two-and-a-half  story  structure  with  a  foundation 
of  granite. 

WELLS  (alt.  50,  Wells  Town,  pop.  2036),  20  m.,  is  a  small  settlement  in 
one  of  Maine's  oldest  townships.  Covering  a  large  area  that  originally  in- 
cluded Kennebunk,  the  town  was  often  the  center  of  hostilities  during  the 
Indian  wars  which  raged  intermittently  between  1650  and  1730.  The 
names  occurring  most  frequently  in  accounts  of  early  Indian  warfare  are 
the  names  still  most  commonly  heard  in  the  town  today.  For  most  of  its 
existence,  farming  has  been  the  chief  means  of  livelihood  for  the  in- 
habitants. Increasing  numbers  of  tourists  and  summer  residents  have 
afforded  a  large  market  for  local  garden  produce. 

The  Lindsey  Tavern  (1799),  20.2  m.  (R),  now  a  tourist  home,  was  a  stage- 
coach stop  on  the  old  post  road.  Some  of  the  original  features  of  the  in- 
terior, including  stencilled  wallpaper  in  the  entrance  hall,  a  Dutch  oven 
in  the  dining-room,  and  hand-made  door  hinges,  have  been  retained. 

At  21.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  9  (see  Tour  IB}. 

KENNEBUNK  (alt.  20,  Kennebunk  Town,  pop.  3302),  25  m.,  is  notable 
for  its  fine  elms.  The  town,  settled  about  1650,  was  for  nearly  a  century 
in  almost  constant  dread  of  attack  by  Indians.  By  1730,  shipbuilding  had 
begun  along  the  Mousam  River.  This  industry  and  an  active  trade  with 
the  West  Indies  made  Kennebunk  a  town  of  importance  until  the  begin- 
ning of  the  Revolutionary  War.  Soon  after  the  Revolution,  the  Mousam 
River  was  again  utilized  in  the  development  of  industry.  Small  mills 
sprang  up  along  its  banks;  shoes,  twine,  and  lumber  are  still  manufactured 
here.  Kennebunk  has  one  of  the  few  municipally  owned  light  and  power 
plants  in  the  State. 

The  Storer  House  (private},  first  house  (R)  on  Storer  St.,  was  the  home  of 
General  Joseph  Storer,  Revolutionary  soldier  and  personal  friend  of  La- 
fayette. This  large,  yet  simple,  structure  is  representative  of  the  excellent 
taste  in  home  building  that  characterized  the  post-Revolutionary  period. 

Kenneth  Roberts,  author  of  'The  Northwest  Passage,'  and  other  histori- 
cal novels,  was  born  in  this  house.  Just  beyond  (R)  is  the  spreading 


TOUR  1 :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  207 

Lafayette  Elm,  under  which  the  French  hero  stood  during  the  reception 
given  in  his  honor  in  1825  by  the  people  of  Kennebunk.  The  tree  has 
grown  so  large  that  it  has  been  necessary  to  prop  up  several  of  its  massive 
limbs. 

The  Bourne  Mansion  (private]  (1815),  second  house  (L)  on  Bourne  St.,  is 
a  square  three-story  structure  with  four  chimneys,  two  at  each  end  of  the 
building.  The  principal  entrance,  facing  the  garden,  has  a  fan-light  of  thick 
leaded  glass,  a  motif  that  is  repeated  above  in  the  second-story  window. 
Outstanding  features  of  the  interior  are  the  curved  staircase  and  the  fine 
paneled  fireplaces. 

Five  Elms  (R),  on  Main  St.  near  Fletcher  St.,  are  believed  to  have  been 
set  out  on  the  day  of  the  battle  of  Lexington.  Directly  back  of  the  fourth 
elm  is  the  Nathaniel  Frost  House,  one  of  many  fine  homes  built  by  pros- 
perous merchants  and  shipowners  in  the  town's  period  of  greatest  affluence. 

The  First  Parish  Unitarian  Church  (L),  at  the  north  entrance  to  Kenne- 
bunk village,  was  built  in  1774  and  remodeled  in  1803.  The  fine  steeple 
surmounts  a  three-story  tower  with  front  windows;  over  the  open  belfry 
is  a  four-faced  clock  which  is  beneath  an  octagonal  lantern  cupola  with 
elliptical  openings.  In  1803  a  bell  cast  in  the  Paul  Revere  foundry  was 
placed  in  the  steeple. 

Right  from  Kennebunk  on  State  35  at  0.1  m.  is  the  Robert  Lord  House  (1800-03), 
similar  in  formality  and  dignity  to  the  Sewall  House,  of  the  same  period,  in  York. 
It  is  a  massive,  two-story,  rectangular  structure  with  a  low  hip  roof  and  parapet 
rail.  The  symmetrical  facade  is  finished  with  carefully  matched  siding  simulating 
stone,  and  is  broken  by  the  lines  of  slender  Doric  pilasters,  by  a  slightly  projecting 
central  pavilion  with  crowning  gable  pediment,  and  by  a  narrow  belt  course  at  the 
second-floor  level.  The  elliptical  fan-light  of  the  entrance  doorway  and  its  dark 
louvred  shutters  are  repeated  in  a  large  sentinel  window  in  the  pediment.  In  the 
second  story  is  a  triple  rectangular  window,  its  sections  separated  by  slender 
paneled  pilasters.  The  wall  openings  are  framed  with  an  unusually  fine  trim.  The 
design  of  the  parapet  rail,  although  a  trifle  light  in  the  absence  of  the  usual  corner 
posts,  is  notable  for  its  delicately  turned  balusters.  An  older  house  (about  1767) 
forms  a  rear  wing. 

The  Taylor  House  (1795-97),  adjoining  the  Lord  House,  is  notable  for  its  three 
exterior  entrances.  Of  similar  proportions  and  detail,  these  doorways  are  designed 
with  flanking  pilasters,  semicircular  fan-lights,  and  crowning  pediments.  The  in- 
terior is  decorated  with  unusually  fine  putty-stucco  ornament  —  a  characteristic 
medium  of  the  period  used  in  simulating  'carved'  ornament  on  flat  surfaces. 

At  0.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  tarred  road. 

Right  here  to  a  field  road,  1  m.,  leading  R.  to  a  granite  monument  marking  the  Site 
of  Larrabee  Garrison  House  (i  720) ,  overlooking  Mousam  River.  A  bronze  bas-relief 
on  the  monument  depicts  the  garrison  within  whose  walls  were  five  houses. 

On  State  35  at  1.2  m.  is  the  yellow  brick  Wedding  Cake  House  (private),  one  of  the 
most  extraordinary  relics  of  the  scroll-saw  era  extant.  The  house,  apparently  built 
some  time  before  the  decorations  were  added,  is  a  square,  two-story  structure  of 
good  proportions  with  a  central  doorway  and,  above,  a  graceful  Palladian  window. 
At  the  corners  have  been  added  series  of  slim,  elaborately  ornamented  wooden 
pinnacles  that  rise  several  feet  above  the  low  roof;  these  are  duplicated  on  each  side 
of  the  entrance  and,  in  miniature,  in  front  of  a  trellised  canopy  over  the  steps  that 
lead  to  the  doorway.  In  between  these  pinnacles  at  the  tops  of  the  first  and  second 
stories,  has  been  suspended  an  elaborate  tracery,  raised  to  Gothic  peaks  over  the 
entrance  canopy  and  the  Palladian  window;  the  effect  is  that  of  the  paper  lace  mat 


208  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

that  is  fastened  above  the  old-fashioned  valentines.  A  long  barn,  touching  the  rear 
of  the  house  on  the  right,  also  has  pinnacles  and  its  small  high  windows  are  outlined 
by  large  wooden  arches.  A  local  legend  —  which,  as  S.  Weir  Mitchell  said  of  the 
average  family  tree,  is  more  genial  than  logical  —  is  that  the  decorations  were 
added  by  a  sea  captain  whose  bride  had  been  deprived  of  her  large  wedding  cake  by 
his  being  ordered  hastily  to  sea  in  an  emergency. 

Between  Kennebunk  and  30.6  m.,  US  1  follows  the  post  road  established 
for  early  mail  carriers. 

BIDDEFORD  (alt.  80,  pop.  17,633),  33.6  m.  The  twin  cities  of  Bidde- 
ford  and  Saco  (see  below),  on  opposite  banks  of  the  Saco  River,  are  united 
historically,  industrially,  and  socially.  As  a  unit,  they  rank  second  in 
industrial  importance  in  Maine;  Biddeford  is  the  industrial  part  of  the 
union,  Saco  being  predominantly  residential.  The?  population,  strongly 
Franco-American,  is  employed  in  the  three  large  textile  and  textile- 
machinery  mills  and  the  several  smaller  manufactories. 

As  far  as  is  known  Richard  Vines  was  in  charge  of  the  first  company  of 
Englishmen  to  explore  the  site  of  Saco;  he  had  been  sent  out  from  England 
in  1616  by  Gorges,  the  most  enthusiastic  of  the  English  promoters  of 
settlement  at  the  time,  and  others  whom  Gorges  had  interested  in  the 
enterprise  (see  Tour  IB).  In  1629,  Saco  was  granted  to  Thomas  Lewis  and 
Richard  Bonython  and  a  permanent  settlement  was  made  shortly  there- 
after. 

It  is  said  that  about  1675  some  drunken  sailors,  rowing  in  the  river,  saw 
an  Indian  woman  and  her  infant  in  a  canoe  near-by,  and  determined  to 
test  a  tale  they  had  heard  to  the  effect  that  Indian  offspring  swam  from 
birth  by  instinct.  They  overturned  the  canoe;  the  woman  reached  the 
shore  safely,  but  the  child  died  a  few  days  later  as  the  result  of  the  ex- 
perience. Unfortunately  for  the  settlers,  the  child  was  the  son  of  Squando, 
an  Indian  leader,  who  executed  terrible  revenge  on  the  whites. 

The  Pepperell  Manufacturing  Company  Plant  (visited  by  permit}  (R)  at 
170  Main  St.,  an  industry  established  in  1845,  occupies  an  area  of  56 
acres  and  manufactures  nationally  advertised  cotton  products. 

The  Saco-Lowell  Company  Plant  (visited  by  permit),  left  of  Main  on  Smith 
St.,  has  built  textile  machinery  for  more  than  100  years. 

The  York  Manufacturing  Company  Plant  (visited  by  permit).  Main  St.  on 
Factory  Island  between  Biddeford  and  Saco  also  manufactures  textiles. 

The  Lafayette  House,  20  Elm  St.,  is  a  square,  yellow,  three-story  house 
with  a  hip  roof.  It  is  on  the  property  of  the  Diamond  Match  Company. 

In  Biddeford  is  a  junction  with  State  9  (see  Tour  IB). 

SACO  (pro.  Saw'ko)  (alt.  60,  pop.  7233),  34.5  m.,  is  at  a  junction  with 

State  5  (see  Tour  15)  and  State  9  (see  Tour  1C). 

The  Cyrus  King  House,  271  Main  St.  (R),  now  the  rectory  of  Holy 
Trinity  Roman  Catholic  Church,  was  built  in  1807  by  Cyrus  King, 
member  of  the  Scarboro  family  that  produced  the  first  Governor  of  Maine. 
A  later  occupant  of  the  house  was  Horace  Woodman,  the  inventor,  who  in 
1854  devised  the  self-stripping  cotton  card  and  many  other  textile  manu- 
facturing appliances. 


TOUR  1 :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  209 

Lyman  Beecher  Stowe,  a  grandson  of  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe,  was  born  in 
Saco  when  his  father  was  minister  of  the  First  Congregational  Church,  cor. 
Beach  and  Main  Sts. 

York  Institute  (open  weekdays  1-4),  375  Main  St.,  a  small  brick  building 
erected  in  1928,  contains  a  collection  of  Colonial  costumes  and  furniture, 
paintings,  statuary,  Maine  minerals,  Indian  relics,  and  historical  doc- 
uments. 

Thornton  Academy,  438  Main  St.,  a  co-educational  school  of  high  standing 
in  general  preparatory  courses,  was  founded  in  1811  and  now  has  200 
students. 

North  of  Saco  the  wide  highway  passes  through  open  hill  country  with 
many  tourist  camps,  lunch  stands,  and  filling  stations  along  the  way. 

DUNSTAN  (alt.  50,  Scarboro  Town),  40.2  m.,  is  at  the  junction  with 
State  9  (see  Tour  1C).  Opposite  the  junction  is  (L)  the  St.  Louis  School 
for  Boys  conducted  by  the  Sisters  of  Charity.  Large  residences  in  this 
vicinity  have  been  converted  into  tourist  homes  and  inns  that  advertise 
'  New  England  Shore  Dinners '  —  steamed  and  fried  clams,  lobster  stew, 
boiled  and  broiled  lobster. 

North  of  St.  Louis  School  is  (L)  the  Scarboro  Police  Barracks. 

The  highway  crosses  Scarboro  Marshes,  where  underlying  quicksands 
have  caused  great  difficulties  in  road  construction.  Asphalt  paving  has 
been  used,  without  cement  surface,  pending  establishment  of  a  solid  base, 
for  the  surface  invariably  settles  several  inches  within  a  few  months  after 
being  repaired.  In  former  days  large  crops  of  salt  marsh  hay  were  gathered 
on  the  hundreds  of  acres  of  marshland  bordering  the  shore  south  of  Port- 
land. Seven-by-ten-inch  oak  slabs  were  fastened  to  the  hoofs  of  the 
horses  used  in  haying  to  keep  them  from  sinking  into  the  ground.  Pro- 
tected by  game  laws,  plover,  duck,  and  gulls  feed  uninterruptedly  on  the 
marshes  where  they  formerly  were  hunted. 

At  41.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  Scottow's  Hill.  The  first  stagecoach  road  from  Boston  passed 
over  this  steep  summit  to  avoid  the  marshes  near  the  coast.  At  0.6  m.  (L)  is  the 
King  Homestead,  a  two-story  gable-end  house  with  a  long  shed  at  one  end. 

At  41.9  m.  (R)  is  the  Danish  Village,  a  tourist  camp  with  cabins,  pat- 
terned after  the  colorful  little  homes  of  a  medieval  Danish  town, 
grouped  about  the  Raadhus  (town  hall).  Architectural  details  have  been 
faithfully  copied  in  the  hall  where  meals  are  served,  as  well  as  in  the  in- 
dividual cabins. 

OAK  HILL  (alt.  100,  Scarboro  Town),  43.2  m. 

Right  from  Oak  Hill  on  State  207  to  (R)  the  Hunnewell  House  (private),  0.7  m., 
built  in  1684,  known  as  the  Old  Red  House.  It  stands  in  a  'heater  piece,'  a  tri- 
angular plot  of  ground  at  a  junction  of  roads  so  called  in  early  days  when  snow- 
removal  equipment,  which  contained  a  heater,  was  stored  there.  The  timbers  of 
this  small  one-and-a-half-story  lean-to  dwelling  are  hand-hewn  and  wooden-pegged. 
A  trapdoor  in  the  living-room  floor  leads  to  a  shallow  dugout  used  as  a  hiding-place 
during  Indian  raids. 


210  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

SCARBORO  (alt.  20,  Scarboro  Town,  pop.  2445),  1.2  m.  Most  of  the  houses  in 
this  small  village  were  built  and  inhabited  by  seafaring  men.  The  First  Parish  Con- 
gregational Church  (R),  on  the  site  of  one  built  in  1728,  is  an  attractive  little  white 
structure  with  a  fan  window  in  the  front,  and  a  belfry  and  spire. 

The  Parson  Lancaster  House  (1766)  (private),  1.5  m.  on  State  207,  is  a  two-and-a- 
half-story  unpainted  dwelling  with  two  huge  elms  in  its  front  yard.  Interesting 
architectural  features  include  wide  roof  boards,  single  board  wainscoting,  white 
(pumpkin)  pine  paneling,  HL  hinges,  hand-wrought  latches,  knobs,  and  locks, 
fireplaces  with  hand-carved  woodwork,  and  a  staircase  with  delicate  balustrade. 
The  floors,  ceilings,  and  unpainted  woodwork  have  the  patina  of  age. 

In  the  Black  Point  Cemetery  1.7  m.  (L),  the  dark  gray  slate  stones  date  back  to 

1739- 

At  3  m.  a  road  (L)  leads  to  the  popular  bathing  resort,  Higgins  Beach. 

The  private  Black  Point  Preserve  and  Game  Farm,  3.7  m.  (R)  on  State  207,  lies 
opposite  the  Black  Point  Fruit  Farm,  which  has  fine  orchards.  Small  game,  such  as 
partridge,  pheasant,  and  rabbit,  roam  unmolested  in  the  small  wooded  preserve 
set  aside  by  local  residents. 

Massacre  Pond,  visible  (L)  at  4.1  m.,  was  so  named  because  in  1713  Richard 
Hunnewell  and  19  companions  were  set  upon  near  here  and  slain  by  a  band  of  200 
Indians. 

Opposite  the  pond  is  the  fairway  of  the  Prout's  Neck  Country  Club  Golf  Course 
(private).  At  the  seventh  hole  is  a  marker  on  the  site  of  the  first  Anglican  church 
in  Maine,  erected  prior  to  1658. 

At  Garrison  Cove,  4.8  m.,  the  road  emerges  from  the  woods  to  a  cliff  from  which  is  a 
splendid  view  of  the  bay  with  the  white  sands  of  Old  Orchard  Beach  gleaming  in  the 
distance. 

A  Marker  at  5.2  m.  (R)  indicates  the  spot  where  Chief  Mogg  Heigon,  subject  of 
Whittier's  poem  'Mogg  Megone,'  was  slain  in  1677.  This  marker  is  at  the  east  end 
of  beautiful  Garrison  Cove  on  the  site  of  Josselyn  (or  Scottow)  Fort,  headquarters 
for  the  defense  in  the  first  Indian  war.  Directly  ahead  is  Black  Point,  its  rugged 
shore  line  sweeping  westward  toward  Old  Orchard  Beach  (see  Tour  1C). 

The  Prout's  Neck  Yacht  Clubhouse  (R),  5.1  m.  on  the  ledges  of  the  Point,  commands 
a  wide  view  of  the  Atlantic. 

Left  from  the  highway  is  a  path  leading  to  the  Prout's  Neck  Bird  Sanctuary,  given 
to  Scarboro  by  Charles  Homer  in  memory  of  his  brother,  Winslow  Homer,  the 
artist. 

PROUT'S  NECK  (alt.  40,  Scarboro  Town),  5.5  m.,  is  a  pretentious  summer  settle- 
ment. Left  is  the  site  of  the  blockhouse  where,  in  1703,  eight  men  under  Captain 
John  Larrabee  for  several  days  withstood  a  siege  by  500  French  and  Indian 
marauders. 

In  1633,  Thomas  Cammock  and  his  wife  Margaret  moved  from  Richmond's 
Island  to  Prout's  Neck,  then  called  Black  Point.  Here  they  were  joined  by  Henry 
Josselyn  and  for  a  short  time,  in  1638,  by  his  brothe"  John  Josselyn.  John's 
account  of  his  visit,  published  as  'New  England  Rarities,'  repeats  stories  of  sea 
serpents,  witches,  revels,  etc.  Josselyn  included  a  description  of  the  native  flora 
and  of  the  Indians  remarking,  '  There  are  many  stranger  things  in  the  world  than 
are  to  be  seen  between  London  and  Stanes.' 

At  44.3  m.  (R)  is  the  old  Plummer  House  (private),  set  well  back  from  the 
street  with  its  side  turned  to  it.  It  is  a  one-and-a-half-story,  gable-end 
house  with  central  chimney. 

The  Nonesuch  River,  44.  9  m.,  so  named  for  its  remarkably  crooked  course 
to  the  sea,  figured  prominently  in  the  affairs  of  Scarboro  settlers  and  is 
mentioned  in  many  early  histories.  Because  it  was  impossible  to  bring 


TOUR  1 :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  211 

boats  of  any  size  up  this  sharply  winding  tidal  river,  a  canal  was  con- 
structed, to  follow  the  general  course  of  the  river.  Instead  of  digging  the 
entire  canal  by  hand,  the  workers  made  a  narrow  ditch  along  the  proposed 
course.  The  action  of  the  tides  carried  away  the  loose  soil,  finally  com- 
pleting a  project  that  would  have  required  much  back-breaking  toil. 
Near  the  highway  bridge,  fishermen  congregate  in  May  for  the  annual 
run  of  alewives. 

THORNTON  HEIGHTS  (alt.  80,  South  Portland),  46.1  m.,  is  a  small 
residential  community. 

At  47.6  m.  US  1  crosses  Fore  River,  the  southern  boundary  of  Portland, 
on  Vaughan's  Bridge.   Huge  oil  and  gas  tanks  line  the  highway  on  both 
sides  of  the  river,  which  separates  Portland  and  South  Portland. 
At  48.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  Brackett  St.,  Portland. 

Right  on  Brackett  St.  crossing  the  Million  Dollar  Bridge,  0.2  m.,  with  Portland's 
waterfront  (L).  SOUTH  PORTLAND  (alt.  60,  pop.  13,840),  0.9  m.  at  the  mouth  of 
Fore  River,  is  a  residential  community,  occupied  chiefly  by  people  working  in 
Portland.  It  has  several  factories,  however,  among  them  being  the  Maine  Steel, 
Inc.  (L)  on  Second  St.,  makers  of  snowplows  and  marine  hardware. 
Left  from  Brackett  St.  on  Cottage  St.  to  Broadway,  1.2  m.  Follow  trolley  line  (L) 
to  Shore  Road.  At  2.9  m.  is  the  main  gate  (L)  of  Fort  Preble  (open),  named  for 
Commodore  Edward  Preble.  It  was  built  between  1808  and  1811  and  enlarged 
during  the  Civil  War.  It  commands  a  splendid  view  of  Portland  Harbor,  the 
breakwater  jutting  far  into  the  ocean,  with  Fort  Gorges,  an  old  unused  stone  fort 
near-by,  and  Peak's  Island  in  the  distance. 
Shore  Road  passes  many  beautiful  estates. 

CAPE  COTTAGE  (alt.  30,  South  Portland),  4.7  m.  Left  is  the  northern  entrance  to 
Fort  Williams  (open),  where  the  U.S.  Fifth  Infantry  has  been  stationed  since  1922. 
Organized  July  24,  1808,  the  Fifth  is  one  of  the  oldest  Regular  U.S.  Army  regi- 
ments. Its  motto  is  'I'll  Try,  Sir,'  words  spoken  by  Colonel  James  Miller  in  the 
battle  of  Lundy's  Lane,  July  25,  1814.  During  the  Philippine  insurrection  it  was 
stationed  in  the  archipelago;  in  the  World  War  it  did  guard  duty  in  the  Canal  Zone 
and  went  to  Germany  with  the  army  of  occupation.  Within  the  fortification  near 
the  shore  is  Portland  Head  Light  (1791),  the  oldest  lighthouse  on  the  Maine  coast. 
The  white  conical  tower  rises  101  feet  above  high  water.  From  the  hurricane  deck 
of  the  tower,  many  of  the  222  Casco  Bay  islands  and  the  Cape  Elizabeth  shore  can 
be  seen.  These  islands  are  sometimes  called  the  Calendar  Isles  because  an  official 
English  report  of  1700  said,  'Sd.  Bay  is  covered  from  storms  that  come  from  the 
sea  by  a  multitude  of  Islands,  great  and  small,  there  being  (if  one  may  believe 
report)  as  many  islands  as  there  are  Days  in  a  yr.' 

At  Pond  Cove  (L),  6  m.,  the  shore  line  cuts  in  nearly  to  the  outer  rocks,  flinging 
spray  across  the  highway  in  heavy  weather. 

POND  COVE  VILLAGE  (alt.  100,  Cape  Elizabeth  Town,  pop.  2376),  7.3  m.,  is 
the  center  of  a  large  town  in  which  fertile  soil  is  well  adapted  to  the  raising  of 
garden  truck. 

TWO  LIGHTS,  11  m.  (L),  on  the  rocky  point  of  Cape  Elizabeth,  is  the  neighbor- 
hood name  for  a  group  of  cottages,  two  light  towers  and  a  Coast  Guard  station. 
There  is  a  light  only  in  the  outer  tower  which  is  120  feet  high  (open).  The  Coast 
Guard  station,  established  in  1887,  serves  the  coast  from  the  Kennebec  River  to 
Biddeford  Pool,  with  a  personnel  of  only  14  men.  A  man  is  constantly  on  duty  in 
the  tower  to  receive  distress  signals  by  telephone,  radio,  or  flares.  The  white 
Government  buildings  stand  out  sharply  against  the  varied  green  of  the  shore 
foliage  and  of  the  ever-changing  ocean.  This  exposed  point,  which  bears  the  brunt 
of  heavy  seas  after  every  storm,  attracts  scores  of  people  who  like  to  watch  the 
magnificent  display  of  surf  as  the  huge  waves  batter  themselves  against  the  ledges. 


212  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

PORTLAND  (alt.  80,  pop.  70,810)  (see  PORTLAND),  49.2  m.  at  Long- 
fellow Square,  is  the  point  of  departure  for  steamer  trips  to  Casco  Bay 
islands  (see  Island  Trips). 

Here  are  junctions  with  State  26  (see  Tour  14),  with  US  302  (see  Tour  18), 
and  with  State  25  (see  Tour  19). 

Casco  Bay  (Ind.:  Aucocisco,  'place  of  herons')  was  visited  by  most  of  the  explorers 
who  came  along  this  coast  shortly  after  1600;  all  were  attracted  by  it  because  of  the 
safe  anchorage  offered  by  its  deep  waters  and  because  the  islands  gave  them  places 
to  land  where  they  felt  reasonably  safe  from  the  inhabitants  of  the  country,  on 
whom  they  looked  with  some  fear.  The  islands  are  now  much  visited  by  summer 
visitors;  some  are  fairly  large,  some  mere  dots  on  the  water.  On  them  hang  count- 
less legends  of  castaways,  buried  treasure,  shipwrecks,  and  Indian  gods.  Many  of 
the  islands  bear  homely  names  given  by  the  pioneers  who  displayed  considerable 
imagination  in  finding  resemblances  to  objects  and  animals  in  the  rough  profiles  — 
Ram,  Horse,  Sow  and  Pigs,  The  Goslings,  Turnip,  and  Whaleboat,  are  among 
them.  Others  have  names  derived  from  events  that  took  place  on  them,  or  were 
given  because  of  animals  inhabiting  them. 

The  first  settlement  in  the  bay  took  place  in  1623,  when  Captain  Christopher 
Levett  erected  a  stone  house  on  one  of  the  islands,  probably  YORK,  or  House,  as  it 
was  formerly  known. 

JEWELL  ISLAND,  one  of  the  outermost,  acquired  by  George  Jewell  in  1636,  has 
the  usual  legend  of  vast  treasure  buried  in  it  by  Captain  Kidd.  Treasure-seekers, 
ignorant  of  the  fact  that  Kidd  never  visited  this  part  of  the  coast,  tried  every 
possible  device  to  find  the  gold  and  jewels  they  believed  to  be  there,  sacrificing 
animals,  using  divining  rods,  and  invoking  the  help  of  demented  people  believed  to 
have  second  sight.  Legends  have  grown  up  about  the  activities  of  the  persistent 
diggers;  one  concerns  a  mysterious  stranger  who  appeared,  asking  for  the  help  of  a 
skipper  residing  there.  The  visitor  disappeared  without  anyone's  having  seen  him 
leave  the  island  and  shortly  afterward  the  captain  showed  evidence  of  great  wealth; 
curious  neighbors  announced  that  they  had  seen  the  imprints  of  a  large  chest  near 
a  newly  dug  hole  and  a  later  treasure  hunter  reported  the  finding  of  a  buried 
skeleton  near-by. 

Large  PEAK'S  ISLAND,  near  Portland  and  a  favorite  resort  of  residents  of  that 
city,  has  various  amusement  devices;  a  number  of  Portland  residents  have  year- 
round  homes  here. 

CLIFF  ISLAND  was  the  home  of  men  who  were  accused  of  wrecking  ships  by  de- 
coying them  to  the  rocks,  in  order  to  wreck  them. 

EAGLE  ISLAND,  on  the  outer  rim  of  the  bay,  was  owned  by  Admiral  Robert 
E.  Peary,  who  made  his  home  on  its  stony  acres  for  many  years. 
ORR'S  ISLAND,  accessible  from  State  123,  south  of  Brunswick,  was  the  scene  of 
Harriet  Beecher  Stowe's  story,  'The  Pearl  of  Orr's  Island.'   Mrs.  Stowe's  former 
home  stands  on  a  hill  near  the  ferry  landing. 

BAILEY  ISLAND,  south  of  Orr's,  was  the  summer  home  of  Clara  Louise  Burn- 
ham  of  Chicago,  who  wrote  a  number  of  stories  about  the  area. 

At  54.8  m.  is  the  entrance  (R)  to  Portland  Country  Club  (open  to  public). 

At  55.1  m.  (L),  is  a  marker  indicating  the  near-by  Site  of  Fort  New  Casco, 
which,  erected  in  1698,  was  also  a  trading  post.  The  Indians  of  Maine 
had  at  first  been  very  friendly  with  the  English ;  it  was  only  after  they  had 
been  repeatedly  betrayed,  insulted,  cheated,  and  assaulted  that  they  be- 
came hostile  and  vengeful.  The  French,  who  have  far  less  race  prejudice 
than  the  English  and  therefore  manage  their  relations  with  people  of 
other  races  more  amicably,  soon  won  the  friendship  of  the  Indians  and 
determined  to  use  them  in  their  efforts  to  drive  the  English  from  American 


TOUR  1:   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  213 

shores.  Maine,  part  of  the  territory  that  the  French  claimed  longest,  was 
particularly  subject  to  attack.  In  1703,  a  conference  was  held  with  the 
Indians  at  Fort  New  Casco  and  the  settlers  hoped  for  safer  times;  but 
within  two  months  another  attack  came  and  the  fort  was  the  center  of 
defense  for  the  settlements  of  Casco  Bay.  The  attack  of  a  large  force  of 
Frenchmen  and  Indians  was  repulsed  only  by  the  arrival  of  an  armed 
vessel.  The  fort  was  abandoned  in  1716,  when  Massachusetts  thought  it 
was  no  longer  necessary  to  maintain  a  garrison  here. 

The  attractive  castellated  stone  edifice  (R)  is  the  Episcopal  Church  of  St. 

Mary  the  Virgin;  directly  opposite  is  Falmouth  Town  Forest,  a  well-kept 

grove  of  old  pine  trees. 

FALMOUTH  FORESIDE  (alt.  100,  Falmouth  Town,  pop.  2041),  57.1 

m.,  is  a  residential  section  of  fine  homes  in  an  agricultural  town  on  the 

shores  of  Casco  Bay. 

Underwood  Spring  (R),  now  exploited  as  a  private  commercial  enterprise, 

is  a  natural  curiosity,  for  though  it  has  no  perceptible  source,  it  has  a 

large  flow  of  pure  water  unaffected  by  drought  or  freshet.   The  Abnaki 

Indians  maintained  a  permanent  settlement  here,  and  Waymouth,  the 

English  explorer,  wrote  in  his  journal  that  the  Indians  allowed  him  to  fill 

his  casks  at  this  spring. 

Along  the  route  here  is  an  exceptional  panoramic  view  (R)  of  Casco  Bay 

and  its  islands. 

At  61.4  m.  (R),  in  the  Westcustogo  neighborhood  (Ind.:  'clear  tidal 
river'),  is  a  Burial  Ground  dating  back  to  1732.  Just  beyond  is  a  group  of 
three  large  Old  Houses.  The  most  southerly  of  the  houses  is  on  the  site  of 
Royall  Garrison  House,  part  of  the  property  purchased  by  William  Royall 
in  1643.  The  house  behind  it  stands  on  the  site  of  the  first  church  of  Yar- 
mouth built  in  1729.  The  third  house  (1769)  is  on  the  site  of  the  Loring 
Garrison  of  the  i7th  century. 

At  62.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  115. 

Left  on  State  115  is  YARMOUTH  (alt.  80,  Yarmouth  Town,  pop.  2125),  0.4  m. 
This  seaport  town  on  Casco  Bay  was  settled  in  1658,  laid  waste  by  Indians  in  1673, 
and  resettled  in  1713.    Fishing  and  crab-meat  packing  are  the  major  industries, 
which  have  supplanted  the  shipping  and  shipbuilding  of  the  igth  century. 
North  Yarmouth  Academy  (R),  on  Main  St.,  was  founded  in  1810. 
At  66.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  local  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  Desert  of  Maine  (adm.  25^),  2  w.,  covering  300  acres  and 
surrounded  by  forests  and  green  farm  lands.  Such  miniature  Saharas  are  not  un- 
usual in  coastal  areas. 

The  first  patch  of  sand,  noticed  in  the  latter  part  of  the  igth  century,  was  about  30 
feet  square.  The  sand  stratum  is  at  present  around  the  3oo-acre  (1937)  area  for  a 
radius  of  6  miles.  In  this  circle  a  top  layer  of  loam  is  either  being  covered  or  worn 
by  frequent  sandstorms.  Some  geologists  believe  the  spot  covers  the  bed  of  an 
ancient  lake,  perhaps  formed  by  glacial  deposits,  for  a  glint  of  mica  is  apparent  in 
the  sand  which  is  very  fine  in  texture.  Sandstorms  constantly  raise  and  lower  the 
desert  level  as  the  erosion  creeps  outward,  the  sand  covering  everything  in  its  path, 
creating  30-foot  gullies  and  high  dunes.  The  tops  of  trees  once  70  feet  high  appear 
as  bushes,  and  strangely  enough  are  still  alive.  Among  them  is  an  apple  tree  which 
Still  blossoms  and  bears  fruit. 


214  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

FREEPORT  (alt.  140,  Freeport  Town,  pop.  2184),  68  m.,  a  pleasant, 
tree-shaded  old  village,  is  often  referred  to  as  the  Birthplace  of  Maine, 
because  the  final  papers  for  the  separation  of  Maine  from  Massachusetts, 
which  established  it  in  1820  as  an  independent  State,  are  said  to  have  been 
signed  here  by  commissioners  from  Massachusetts  and  the  Province  of 
Maine,  probably  in  Jameson's  Tavern  (1779),  just  north  of  the  post 
office  (L). 

When  Freeport  was  incorporated  in  1789  it  was  named  for  Sir  Andrew 
Freeport,  the  character  in  Addison's  'Spectator  Papers'  who  represented 
the  London  merchant  class.  Whether  the  town  namer  admired  Addison 
or,  what  is  more  probable,  the  prosperous  conservative  whom  he  presented, 
is  unknown. 

There  was  a  time  when  Freeport  had  a  prosperous  shipbuilding  business, 
but  it  is  now  engaged  in  shoemaking,  crabbing,  and  crab-meat  packing. 
The  crab-meat  is  picked  from  the  shells  by  groups  of  young  women  and 
shipped  in  iced  cartons. 

Freeport,  like  almost  every  other  old  town  along  this  coast,  has  its  story  of 
an  Indian  attack.  In  1756,  Thomas  Means,  living  near  Flying  Point,  was 
surprised  in  his  bed  and  scalped;  his  wife  and  infant  son  were  killed  by  a 
single  bullet;  two  other  children  crept  into  hiding  and  escaped.  The  In- 
dians took  Mrs.  Means'  sister  Mary  away  with  them  to  Canada,  where 
she  became  a  housemaid  in  the  home  of  one  of  the  French  feudal  lords. 
She  was  later  rescued  by  William  McLellan,  whom  she  married. 

Right  from  Freeport  on  a  dirt  road  to  an  old  Cemetery,  0.6  m.  (R),  that  is  the  burial 
place  of  many  sea  captains  and  seamen  of  the  area. 

PORTER'S  LANDING,  1.2  m.,  the  commercial  center  in  Freeport's  shipping 
days,  is  now  a  dignified  residential  section  in  which  the  old  homes  have  been  en- 
tirely modernized. 

At  2.7  m.  is  a  four  corners  in  SOUTH  FREEPORT,  the  street  (L)  leading  to  the 
village  center.  South  Freeport,  at  the  mouth  of  Harraseeket  River  on  Freeport 
Harbor,  which  is  navigable  throughout  the  year,  has  been  a  fishing  center  from  its 
earliest  days,  assuming  its  greatest  importance  between  1825  and  1830  when  as 
many  as  12,000  barrels  of  mackerel  were  packed  and  shipped  annually.  Of  late 
years  it  has  specialized  in  crab-meat  packing.  In  1878  the  'John  A.  Briggs,'  one  of 
the  largest  wooden  vessels  built  on  the  Maine  coast  up  to  that  time,  was  launched 
here. 

Left,  beyond  the  four  corners,  are  the  ruins  of  Casco  Castle,  once  a  picturesque 
summer  hotel  modeled  after  a  medieval  stronghold.  The  tower,  all  that  remains  of 
the  hotel,  which  was  burned  in  1904,  is  a  round  solid  structure  of  field-stone  about 
80  feet  high  with  walls  3  feet  thick.  Standing  on  an  eminence  overlooking  the  bay, 
it  has  long  been  a  landmark  for  fishermen. 

At  68.9  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  Shiloh,  10  m.  (services  at  noon  Sun.*),  which  has  received 
national  attention  from  time  to  time  as  the  home  of  the  Holy  Ghost  and  Us 
Society,  a  religious  sect  with  Adventist  beliefs,  founded  by  the  Reverend  Frank  W. 
Sandford,  the  'Elijah'  of  the  early  i  goo's. 

Sandford's  cult  brought  converts  from  many  parts  of  the  world  to  pour  their 
money  into  a  common  fund.  Men  and  women  sold  their  worldly  possessions  and 
turned  the  proceeds  over  to  him.  The  colony  flourished  for  a  time,  practicing 
various  crafts.  When  the  world  did  not  end  as  he  had  predicted  after  ordering  a 


TOUR  1:   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  215 

ceaseless  night-and-day  vigil  of  prayer  in  the  high  tower  on  the  main  building, 
Sandford  announced  that  the  Almighty  had  commissioned  him  to  go  forth  and 
convert  the  heathen.  When  he  prayed  for  means  to  accomplish  this,  a  $10,000 
check  appeared.  Forthwith,  he  purchased  a  i5o-ton  sailing  vessel,  the  'Coronet,' 
and  set  sail  from  Portland  Harbor  with  a  flowing  beard,  purple  robe,  sailor  hat,  and 
Bible  underarm.  Several  voyages  were  made  in  various  ships  without  noticeable 
results.  During  the  last  voyage,  made  in  the  'Coronet'  in  1912,  after  many  hard- 
ships and  privations,  eight  members  of  the  party  died  of  scurvy;  when  the  ship 
returned  to  Portland  Harbor,  Sandford  had  trouble  with  the  authorities.  When 
he  returned  to  Shiloh,  two  years  later,  he  found  his  old  power  gone,  his  people 
scattered,  and  he  subsequently  dropped  from  sight.  The  buildings,  on  a  high, 
windswept  hill,  are  unusual.  The  square,  hip-roofed,  three-story  main  struc- 
ture, on  a  high  foundation,  has  a  large  five-story  tower  on  its  front,  each  story  of 
the  tower  containing  a  large  room  and  the  top  floor  having  protruding  bay  windows 
on  each  side;  the  tower  is  surmounted  with  a  high-domed  cupola  supported  by  very 
slender  columns.  Between  the  main  building  and  two-story,  towered  wings  are 
three-story  ornamental  gateways  with  arched  doors.  Broad  piazzas  with  balustrades 
on  the  roofs  surround  the  three  buildings. 

In  1936,  after  many  years  of  neglect,  the  place  was  repaired  and  the  towers  re- 
gilded.  A  small  group  of  cultists  lives  here  but  does  not  welcome  curious  visitors. 
When  rumors  reached  Portland  of  renewed  activities  under  the  leadership  of 
Sandford's  son  and  of  the  reconditioning  of  the  '  Coronet,'  reporters  were  sent  to 
investigate;  the  residents  refused  to  answer  questions  concerning  the  whereabouts 
of  the  elder  Sandford. 

Services  are  held  in  a  well-carpeted  room  seating  200.  During  prayer  all  persons 
kneel  with  elbows  on  chairs,  various  members  introducing  the  prayers  as  called 
upon  by  the  speaker.  While  visitors  are  now  invited  to  these  services,  none  may 
inspect  other  buildings  or  the  grounds  at  any  time. 

BRUNSWICK  (alt.  30,  Brunswick  Town,  pop.  7604)  (see  BRUNS- 
WICK), 76.9  m.,  is  at  the  junction  with  US  201  (see  Tour  10). 

Sec.  b.  BRUNSWICK  to  BELFAST,  79.3  m. 

East  of  Brunswick  US  1  runs  through  the  old  shipbuilding  city  of  Bath, 
crosses  the  Kennebec  River,  and  gradually  swings  northeast  to  follow  the 
western  edge  of  Penobscot  Bay.  The  countryside  is  fairly  open  with 
distant  views  of  the  ocean.  Houses  belong  chiefly  to  the  igth  century  and 
there  are  few  signs  of  recent  prosperity.  The  area  around  Camden  is 
particularly  beautiful,  the  hills  being  covered  with  the  evergreens  that  are 
increasingly  present  as  the  route  moves  northeast. 

US  1  leaves  BRUNSWICK  (see  BRUNSWICK)  0  m. 
At  0.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  24  (see  Tour  ID). 

BATH  (alt.  50,  pop.  9110),  9  m.,  named  for  the  ancient  city  of  Bath, 
England,  has  a  history  of  almost  two  centuries  of  shipbuilding,  though  its 
yards  turn  out  comparatively  few  vessels  today.  Its  heyday  was  in  the 
wooden-ship  era,  though  the  first  steel  sailing  vessel,  a  four-master,  was 
built  here.  Naturally,  many  of  its  inhabitants  have  been  shipmasters  and 
shipowners,  and  the  older  homes  are  filled  with  souvenirs  from  far  parts 
of  the  earth  —  printed  India  linens,  teakwood  chests,  blue  and  white 
ginger  jars  from  Canton,  and  strangely  shaped  sea  shells.  During  the 
World  War  the  local  yards  were  active  again,  attracting  several  thousand 
workmen,  but  the  revival  was  temporary.  The  chief  event  in  local  life 


216  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

still  is,  however,  as  it  has  long  been,  the  launching  of  a  new  craft;  and  the 
townspeople  follow  the  histories  of  Bath  ships  with  pride. 

Bath  Iron  Works  (visited  by  permit),  in  the  center  of  the  city  at  Union  and 
Water  Sts.  below  the  Carlton  Bridge,  was  founded  by  General  Thomas 
Hyde  after  his  return  from  the  Civil  War.  Some  fairly  large  and  many 
small  Government  vessels  have  been  built  here,  including  the  battleship 
'Georgia,'  cruisers,  and  lighthouse  tenders.  Many  fine  yachts  and  sail- 
boats have  also  come  from  this  plant  which  built  the  1937  America's 
Cup  winner,  the  'Ranger.' 

Near-by  are  other  shipbuilding  works  that  can  make  any  but  the  largest 
vessels. 

The  new  Davenport  Memorial  Building,  right  on  Front  St.,  housing  the 
Bath  municipal  offices,  has  in  its  tower  a  bell  cast  in  1805  at  the  Paul 
Revere  foundry.  The  Davenport  Memorial  Museum,  in  the  building,  con- 
tains ship  paintings  and  original  half-models  from  which  were  built 
famous  Kennebec  merchantmen  and  vessels  launched  in  other  Maine 
ports,  as  well  as  many  exhibits  of  importance  in  Maine  marine  history. 

In  the  beautifully  landscaped  City  Park,  on  Front  St.,  is  a  cannon  taken 
from  the  British  man-of-war  'Somerset,'  which  was  'swinging  wide  at  her 
moorings '  in  Boston  Harbor  when  Paul  Revere  made  his  ride.  The  cannon 
was  used  for  the  firing  of  salutes  at  Bath  until  the  latter  part  of  the  igth 
century. 

The  Apartment  House,  3  North  St.,  corner  of  Front  St.,  formerly  a  rather 
pretentious  old  home,  was  between  1915  and  1924  occupied  by  Madame 
Emma  Fames  (1867-  ),  the  operatic  star,  and  her  husband,  Emilio  De 
Gogorza,  the  baritone. 

The  home  of  Herbert  L.  Spinney  (open),  75  Court  St.,  houses  a  Collection 
of  Native  Flora  and  Fauna.  Mr.  Spinney  was  associated  with  the  Smith- 
sonian Institution  for  many  years. 

In  Bath  is  the  junction  with  State  209  (see  Tour  IE). 

Left  from  Bath  on  Washington  St.,  at  1.6  m.  and  opposite  Harward  St.,  is  the  Old 
Peterson  House,  on  the  river  bank.  The  place  is  an  architectural  curiosity  that  was 
built  (1770)  by  ship  carpenters  for  the  King's  timber  agent.  The  mass  of  the  build- 
ing is  broad  at  the  base  and  narrow  at  the  top;  the  door  jambs,  windows,  and  win- 
dow frames  follow  the  lines  of  the  house.  The  front  lawn  is  the  site  of  the  dock  at 
which  were  loaded  the  tree  trunks  that  had  been  marked  with  a  'broad  arrow,' 
indicating  that  they  were  sacred  to  the  Royal  Navy.  These  trees  were  intended  for 
masts  and  were  at  least  24  inches  in  diameter.  The  resentment  of  the  people  of 
Maine  against  the  commandeering  of  their  best  mast  pines  drove  them  into  the 
revolt  that  became  a  revolution. 

Left  from  Washington  St.  on  Harward  St.;  at  1.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  High  St.; 
left  here  to  Whiskeag  Rd. ;  right  on  the  latter  to  (L)  the  Stone  House  (private),  2.1  m., 
a  structure  with  cathedral-like  doors  and  windows  that  was  erected  in  1805  and 
became  the  home  of  Maine's  first  (1820)  Governor,  William  King.  It  is  said  to  have 
been  built  as  a  hunting  lodge  by  Englishmen. 

East  of  Bath  US  1  crosses  Carlton  Bridge  (50^  toll)  built  in  1927,  which 
spans  the  Kennebec  River.  It  commands  a  sweeping  view  of  the  river, 
waterfront,  and  city. 


TOUR  1:   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  217 

The  Kennebec  is  one  of  the  historic  rivers  of  America.  It  was  one  of  the 
earliest  explored  streams  on  the  coast  of  North  America;  various  adven- 
turers had  made  fragmentary  reports  on  it  before  1600  and  Champlain 
and  Waymouth  had  explored  it  to  some  extent  before  1606.  It  was  named 
as  one  of  the  boundaries  of  various  large  land  grants  made  during  the  race 
between  the  French  and  the  British  for  control  of  the  continent.  In  the 
middle  of  August,  1607,  George  Popham  and  Raleigh  Gilbert,  command- 
ing the  expedition  promoted  by  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges  and  Sir  John  Pop- 
ham,  sailed  up  the  river,  passing  the  place  now  spanned  by  the  bridge  in 
their  search  for  a  site  for  the  colony  (see  Tour  IE)  that  was  to  send  fur, 
sassafras,  and  other  commodities  back  to  England  to  make  fortunes  for 
the  London  investors.  Two  decades  later  it  saw  a  steady  stream  of 
traffic  to  and  from  the  trading  settlement  at  the  present  Augusta  made 
by  the  '  Undertakers '  of  Plymouth,  and  it  was  the  rich  cargoes  that  came 
down  its  waters  that  saved  the  Massachusetts  settlement  from  ex- 
tinction. Since  that  time  the  river  has  been  the  scene  of  continuous 
activity,  of  log-drives,  ship  launchings,  commercial  travel,  power  develop- 
ment, and,  not  least  important,  hunters'  and  fishermen's  treks. 

WOOLWICH  (alt.  30,  Woolwich  Town,  pop.  671),  10.2  m.,  is  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  Kennebec  River  opposite  the  city  of  Bath.  Shipbuilding 
and  fishing  for  shad  and  sturgeon  were  the  early  industries,  now  replaced 
by  farming,  dairying,  and  orcharding.  The  canning  of  corn,  peas,  and 
beans  is  here  rapidly  increasing  in  volume. 

In  Woolwich  is  the  junction  with  State  127  (see  Tour  IF). 

Left  from  Woolwich  on  State  127,  to  DAY'S  FERRY  (alt.  20,  Woolwich  Town), 
3  m.,  is  the  Appleton  Day  House  (R),  built  in  1777  on  the  site  of  the  Samuel  Harn- 
den  blockhouse.  It  is  a  two-and-a-half-story  frame  house  with  a  fireplace  in  each 
room.  The  chimneys  and  fireplaces  are  constructed  of  locally  made  bricks.  There 
are  three  cellars  under  this  house;  legend  has  it  that  an  underground  passageway 
extending  from  the  cellars  to  the  river  was  built  for  use  in  times  of  Indian  attack. 

Nequasset  Meeting-House,  11.6  m.  (L),  the  oldest  meeting-house  east 
of  the  Kennebec  River,  was  built  in  1757.  Here  Josiah  Winship,  the 
first  permanent  pastor,  was  ordained  in  1765,  when  there  were  but  20 
families  and  only  two  frame  houses  in  the  settlement. 

At  14.7  m.,  is  the  junction  with  Montsweag  Road,  which  is  unmarked  and 
in  poor  condition. 

Right  on  this  road,  at  4.4  m.,  is  a  view  of  Hockomock  Bay,  with  its  several  islands. 

At  Phipps  Point,  4.8  m.  (R),  in  a  private  estate,  is  the  site  of  Sir  William  Phips' 
home.  Phips  was  born  in  Maine  in  1651  of  a  poverty-stricken  family  and  worked 
as  a  shepherd  and  ship  carpenter  until  he  was  25,  when  he  went  to  sea;  he  learned 
to  read  and  write  in  Boston  and  decided  to  make  his  fortune  by  treasure  hunting, 
managing  in  1683  to  receive  a  commission  from  the  English  Crown  for  the  recovery 
of  treasure  in  a  ship  sunk  off  the  Bahamas.  He  was  successful  in  this  enterprise, 
receiving  £16,000  and  a  knighthood  as  his  reward.  He  next  commanded  an  expedi- 
tion that  captured  Port  Royal  without  difficulty  but  his  second  expedition  to 
Canada  failed.  Through  the  wirepulling  of  Cotton  Mather  he  was  appointed 
Royal  Governor  of  Massachusetts;  he  lacked  the  tact  and  education,  however,  to 
enable  him  to  cope  with  the  problems  that  confronted  him  and  became  involved  in 
difficulties  that  resulted  in  his  recall  to  England.  He  died  there  in  1695  during  an 
investigation  of  the  charges  against  him. 


2i 8  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

WISCASSET  (Ind.:  'meeting  of  three  tides'  or  'rivers')  (alt.  50,  Wis- 
casset  Town,  pop.  1186),  19.3  m.,  seat  of  Lincoln  County,  is  a  charming 
town  with  little  more  than  half  the  population  it  had  in  1850,  when  it  was 
still  a  fairly  important  port  on  the  west  bank  of  the  wide  Sheepscot  River. 
Its  beautiful  old  homes,  most  of  which  were  built  by  shipping  merchants 
and  sea  captains,  are  now  occupied  in  part  by  artists  and  writers  who 
have  been  attracted  by  the  distinctive  charm  of  the  place.  The  town, 
formerly  much  larger  in  area  than  it  now  is,  was  called  Pownalborough  in 
honor  of  Royal  Governor  Pownal  until  1802.  Settlement  began  here  in 
the  middle  of  the  iyth  century  but  the  place  was  abandoned  during  King 
Philip's  War  and  was  not  again  occupied  until  1730. 

Open  House  Day  is  held  annually  in  August  (adm.  $2),  the  funds  going  to 
the  support  of  the  town  library.  On  this  day  the  beautifully  furnished 
old  homes,  some  occupied  by  descendants  of  the  original  owners  and 
others  by  summer  residents,  are  opened  to  the  public  and  collections  of 
old  and  new  craft  work  are  displayed. 

The  Nickels-Sortwell  House  (1807-08),  corner  of  Main  and  Fort  Sts., 
one  of  the  largest  mansions  of  its  period  in  Wiscasset,  is  a  massive  three- 
story  structure  with  a  one-story  entrance  portico,  Corinthian  pilasters,  a 
long  central  Palladian  window  in  the  second  story,  and  a  large  semi- 
circular window  above  it  interpolated  between  the  square  windows  on 
each  side  in  the  third  story.  This  unfortunate  arrangement  of  windows  is 
a  characteristic  central  motif  of  the  facade  in  houses  on  the  Maine  coast. 
The  inharmonious  railing  above  the  portico  is  a  later  addition  (about 
1890).  An  interesting  variation  in  the  detail  of  the  main  cornice  is  the 
omission  of  the  modillions  and  the  use  of  a  double  row  of  dentils  in  their 
place.  The  main  portal  with  itselliptical  fan-light  and  elaborately  mullioned 
side-lights  is  particularly  notable  for  slender  pilasters  and  delicately  carved 
transom  rail  and  architrave.  The  face  of  the  pilasters  is  carved  in  herring- 
bone pattern. 

The  Abiel  Wood  House  (1812),  cor.  High  and  Lee  Sts.,  though  built  a  few 
years  later  than  the  Nickels  House,  is  almost  a  duplicate  of  it.  The  Wood 
House,  however,  has  greater  distinction  because  of  the  more  pleasing  pro- 
portions of  its  Palladian  window,  and  the  lack  of  such  superficial  em- 
bellishments as  the  Corinthian  pilasters.  It  was  restored  to  its  original 
lines  in  1936. 

The  Clapp  House,  or  Lilac  Cottage,  on  US  1  opposite  the  Common,  is  an 
old  story-and-a-half  structure  of  unknown  date,  now  painted  white  with 
green  shutters.  The  front  yard,  which  is  fragrant  with  lilacs  in  the  spring, 
is  enclosed  by  a  picket  fence. 

The  Lincoln  County  Courthouse  (1824),  on  the  Common,  contains  a  jail 
that  was  at  one  time  a  State  prison.  This  building,  the  oldest  in  which 
court  is  still  held  in  Maine,  at  one  time  resounded  the  rolling  periods  of 
Daniel  Webster. 

The  Lee-Pay  son-Smith  House,  right  on  High  St.,  opposite  the  library, 
is  still  owned  by  the  descendants  of  Samuel  E.  Smith,  who  was  Governoi 


TOUR  1:   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  219 

of  Maine  1831-34.  It  was  erected  in  the  early  igth  century  and  admirably 
illustrates  the  skill  of  the  carpenter-architects  of  the  day  and  their  sensi- 
tive appreciation  of  classic  detail  executed  in  wood.  The  distinctive 
charm  of  this  square,  two-story  frame  house,  with  its  clapboard  front, 
brick  ends,  hip  roof  topped  with  a  captain's  walk,  and  low  service  wings, 
is  found  in  its  refinement  of  detail  and  subtle  proportions,  which  attain 
an  almost  monumental  quality.  Perhaps  the  most  notable  feature  of  the 
exterior  is  the  fine  modillioned  and  dentiled  cornices,  both  on  the  main 
section  of  the  house  and  on  the  ells  at  the  side;  its  thin  acute-angle  profile, 
combined  with  the  low  pitch  of  the  roof,  gives  an  effect  of  singular  grace 
and  delicacy.  The  Ionic  pilasters,  placed  at  some  distance  from  the 
corners  of  the  main  facade,  are  carved  in  somewhat  heavier  detail.  The 
open  railing  around  the  captain's  walk,  suggesting  a  Chippendale  pattern, 
is  very  well  proportioned  to  the  mass  of  the  house. 

In  the  Town  Library,  High  St.  (open  weekdays  2-5.30),  is  a  very  old  piece 
of  fire  apparatus,  a  hand-drawn  affair,  equipped  with  two  leather  buckets, 
two  cotton  bags  for  use  in  carrying  small  articles  from  burning  buildings, 
and  a  bed  key  for  unfastening  beds  preparatory  to  their  removal.  The 
Wiscasset  Fire  Society,  organized  in  1801,  though  no  longer  active  in  a 
fire-fighting  capacity,  has  maintained  many  of  its  old-time  rules  and 
regulations  and  members  are  still  fined  10^  if  they  are  absent  from  meet- 
ings. 

The  Tucker  Mansion,  or  Tucker  Castle,  east  end  of  High  St.,  was  built  in 
1807,  of  curious  architecture,  and  is  said  to  be  a  copy  of  a  castle  in  Dun- 
bar,  Scotland.  The  piazza  was  added  in  1860.  Inside,  a  slender  spiral 
staircase  with  mahogany  balustrades  rises  in  the  center  of  the  hall.  Pa- 
tience Tucker  Stapleton,  daughter  of  a  sea  captain  and  author  of  '  Trail- 
ing Yew'  and  other  stories,  lived  here  in  her  youth. 

At  Wiscasset  is  a  junction  with  State  27  (see  Tour  12)  and  State  218. 
Left  from  Wiscasset  on  State  218  to  (L)  the  old  Alna  Meeting-House  (apply  at 
Walker  House,  next  door,  for  admission),  7.1  m.  The  original  hand-hewn  shingles 
are  in  place  on  two  of  the  weather-beaten  sides  of  this  old  structure,  which  was 
built  in  1789,  and  on  the  north  side  are  the  original  clapboards,  shiplapped  at  the 
northeastern  corner  against  the  storms.  Curiously  designed  hand-wrought  foot 
scrapers  grace  the  sides  of  the  doorstep.  The  interior  woodwork  is  very  well 
preserved;  the  box  pews,  with  carved  spindles,  seated  nearly  five  hundred  people. 
The  raised  hourglass  pulpit,  with  a  winding  flight  of  steps  and  finely  molded  hand- 
rail, is  paneled  in  contrasting  dark  and  light  wood;  above  the  pulpit  is  an  octagonal 
bell-shaped  canopy  and  sounding  board,  and  behind  it  is  a  long  arched  window 
flanked  by  fluted  pilasters.  The  pulpit,  with  an  arrangement  for  accommodating 
ministers  of  different  heights,  has  been  used  by  many  men  of  varying  oratorical 
talents  since  Parson  Wood,  the  first  minister,  preached  of  fire  and  brimstone  and 
fought  in  vain  against  the  introduction  of  instrumental  music. 

HEAD  TIDE  (alt.  40,  Alna  Town),  10  m.  This  tiny  village,  consisting  of  a  few 
homes,  one  store,  a  church,  and  a  sawmill,  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  bridge  that 
crosses  the  Sheepscot  River.  The  second  house  (L)  on  the  road  beyond  the  store  is 
the  Birthplace  of  Edwin  Arlington  Robinson  (see  Tour  10). 

Right  at  20  m.,  at  the  east  entrance  of  the  long  bridge  over  the  Sheepscot 
River,  is  the  junction  with  a  tarred  road  (see  Tour  1G). 

NEWCASTLE  (alt.  60,  Newcastle  Town,  pop.  914),  26.7  m.,  is  a  pleasant 


22O  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

little  community  with  tree-shaded  streets  on  the  bank  of  the  Damariscotta 
River,  at  a  point  where  it  widens  considerably.  Like  many  southern 
Maine  towns,  Newcastle  was  settled  early  in  the  zyth  century,  but  the 
settlers,  harassed  by  Indians,  left  their  new  homes  repeatedly. 

Left  from  Newcastle  on  a  local  road  is  (R),  atop  a  hill,  the  Kavanaugh  Mansion 
(private),  2.6  m.,  built  in  1803  and  once  owned  by  Edward  Kavanaugh,  acting 
Governor  of  Maine  in  1843.  Tne  two-story  white  building  has  an  octagonal 
cupola,  a  balustraded  roof,  and  a  fine  doorway  with  fan-light  and  side-lights  under  a 
semi-circular  portico.  Although  slightly  altered  from  its  original  form,  it  retains  an 
old-fashioned  charm. 

St.  Patrick's  Roman  Catholic  Church  (open),  2.8  m.  (R),  built  1803-08,  was  ded- 
icated by  Father  Jean  de  Cheverus  (1768-1836),  who  became  the  first  Roman 
Catholic  bishop  of  New  England  in  1808.  Bishop  Cheverus  came  to  America  from 
France  in  1796  and  did  some  work  among  the  Indians  of  the  Maine  coast.  In  the 
final  year  of  his  life,  after  his  return  to  France,  he  was  made  a  cardinal. 

This  thick-walled  old  church  has  a  25o-year-old  altar-piece  from  France.  Some  of 
its  paintings  were  taken  from  a  Mexican  convent  during  the  Mexican  War.  The 
present  altar  is  of  the  sarcophagus  type,  unusual  in  the  United  States;  in  the 
chancel  is  the  original  altar. 

DAMARISCOTTA  (alt.  30,  Damariscotta  Town,  pop.  825),  26.9  m.,  is  a 
tiny  village  on  low  land  in  a  bend  of  the  Damariscotta  River. 

The  digging  of  clams,  which  are  served  extensively  in  the  many  near-by 
summer  hotels  and  eating  places,  and  are  shipped  away  in  refrigerated 
cars,  is  an  important  local  industry.  The  clammers,  who  live  in  shacks 
near  the  salt  water  during  the  summer,  tap  along  the  beaches  at  low  tide, 
causing  the  clams,  disturbed  by  the  vibrations,  to  spout  out  tiny  streams 
of  water  that  betray  their  hiding  places  in  the  mud. 

At  Damariscotta  is  the  junction  with  State  129  (see  Tour  \H). 

Between  a  white  house  and  a  barn  at  28.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt 
road. 

Left  on  this  road,  which  runs  through  a  pasture,  to  Shell  Heaps,  0.5  m.,  which  have 
been  explored,  leaving  the  strata  exposed.  Between  the  bottom  layer  and  the 
second,  which  is  approximately  6  feet  thick,  is  a  layer  of  soil;  in  this  second  layer 
the  shells  are  mixed  with  the  bones  of  animals.  The  top  layer,  containing  smaller 
shells,  is  covered  with  earth  holding  good-sized  trees.  The  age  of  the  heap  is  un- 
known but  the  bottom  layer  was  undoubtedly  deposited  many  centuries  ago.  The 
top  deposit  was  made  by  the  Abnaki  Indians  who  came  to  this  region  in  summer  to 
catch  fish  and  smoke  them  for  winter  use. 

NOBLEBORO  (alt.  170,  Nobleboro  Town,  pop.  599),  31.3  m.,  was  part 
of  the  Pemaquid  Patent  and  named,  when  incorporated  in  1788,  for 
Arthur  Noble,  one  of  the  heirs  of  the  proprietor. 

At  37.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  220. 

Right  on  State  220  to  WALDOBORO  (alt.  120,  Waldoboro  Town,  pop.  2311),  0.7 
m.,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Medomak  River.  It  was  named  for  General 
Samuel  Waldo,  proprietor  of  the  Waldo  Patent,  which  included  this  township  and 
many  hundred  thousand  other  acres.  The  settlers,  who  arrived  in  1748,  were 
Germans  who  had  received  special  encouragement  from  General  Waldo.  The 
town  at  one  time  had  considerable  prestige  as  a  shipbuilding  center,  the  first  five- 
masted  steamer,  the  '  Governor  Ames,'  having  been  built  here. 

A  seasonal  local  industry  is  the  catching,  packing,  and  shipping  of  alewives,  com- 
monly called  herring.  The  village  also  has  a  pearl  button  factory  and  derives  con- 


TOUR  1 :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  221 

siderable  income  from  the  summer  tourist  trade.  Many  local  boats  are  hired  for 
deep-sea  fishing,  the  catch  including  cod,  cusk,  hake,  and  halibut.  Fly-fishing  for 
mackerel  and  pollock  is  popular  with  visitors  in  this  area.  Occasionally  gamey 
striped  bass  and  very  large  tunas  are  secured  in  near-by  waters. 

The  German  Meeting-House  (open  for  services  once  a  year),  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river,  was  built  between  1770  and  1773.  The  36X45  foot  building  has  a  large  en- 
trance porch.  Inside,  a  gallery  overlooks  a  hand-made  communion  table  and 
contribution  boxes.  The  pews  are  unpainted.  A  cabinet  contains  a  collection  of 
old  German  books  and  mementos. 

Near-by  is  the  old  German  Cemetery,  with  many  unusual  and  interesting  inscriptions 
on  grave  markers.  One  bears  the  following: 

"This  town  was  settled  in  1748  by  Germans  who  immigrated  to  this  place 
with  the  promise  and  expectation  of  finding  a  prosperous  city,  instead  of 
which  they  found  nothing  but  wilderness.' 

On  the  eastern  side  of  the  river  is  the  Residence  of  John  H.  Lovett,  whose  works  on 
bees  and  pollination  are  accepted  as  authoritative  by  the  U.S.  Department  of 
Agriculture. 

FRIENDSHIP  ^alt.  90,  Friendship  Town,  pop.  742) ,  10.1  m.,  a  fishing  village  of  small 
neat  homes,  is  at  the  end  of  a  peninsula.  Local  travel  here  being  generally  by  boat, 
small  floats  or  wharves  appear  at  the  ends  of  the  side  streets,  which  slope  sharply 
down  to  the  shore.  Pride  in  the  building  and  care  of  small  boats  is  traditional  in 
Friendship,  as  is  evidenced  by  the  large  number  of  well-painted  craft  in  the  bay. 

In  a  small  building  on  the  grounds  of  Dr.  William  H.  Hahn  (L)  is  an  extensive 
Collection  of  Glassware  (seen  at  convenience  of  owner),  consisting  of  about  1000 
pieces,  most  of  which  are  early  American  lamps.  Dr.  Hahn  also  has  a  collection  of 
ruby  glassware  and  some  old  Roman  and  Turkish  metal  lamps. 

Salt-water  fishing,  from  both  sail  and  motor  boats,  is  the  chief  pastime  in  the 
vicinity  of  Friendship,  the  coastal  waters  offering  many  kinds  of  fish.  Casting  for 
mackerel  has  become  popular,  but  heavy  catches  are  often  made  by  trolling  in  the 
early  morning  and  in  the  evening ;  these  fish  are  as  lively  and  agile  as  trout.  Gunners, 
excellent  pan  fish  12  to  15  inches  in  length  and  up  to  1^2  pounds  in  weight,  are 
usually  caught  on  the  incoming  tides,  with  sharp  hooks  on  straight  poles  baited 
with  worms,  clams,  or  periwinkles.  Pollock,  gamey  as  salmon,  are  caught  with  a  fly 
rod  by  trolling  bright  flies  in  a  swift  current,  or  with  herring  attached  to  a  colored 
spinner.  The  silver  hake,  which  when  fresh  is  one  of  the  most  satisfying  foods  for  a 
hungry  fisherman,  can  be  caught  from  small  boats  near  the  shore. 

As  at  other  points  on  the  Maine  coast  the  skipper  who  takes  parties  out  for  deep- 
sea  fishing  is  generally  an  entertaining  fellow  who  knows  the  fish  runs,  as  well  as 
many  fish  stories;  he  furnishes  tackle  as  well  as  good  advice,  and  cooks  a  tasty 
chowder. 

Clambakes,  another  popular  diversion,  can  be  arranged  at  reasonable  rates,  if 
assistance  is  wanted.  A  driftwood  fire,  built  between  granite  boulders  and  reduced 
to  embers,  is  used  to  steam  lobsters,  clams,  and  crabs  in  pails  of  seaweed;  potatoes 
and  corn,  also  cooked  in  seaweed,  complete  the  menu. 

Garrison 'Island  (alt.  20,  Friendship  Town),  off  the  extreme  southern  end  of  the 
peninsula  but  connected  with  the  mainland  at  low  tide,  is  the  site  of  a  fort  built 
about  1755. 

At  43.6  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  137. 

Left  on  State  137  is  WARREN  (alt.  70,  Warren  Town,  pop.  1429),  1.3  m.  In  1864, 
after  the  recovery  of  Mrs.  Mary  Baker  Glover  Eddy  —  then  Mrs.  Patterson  — 
from  a  serious  illness  under  the  guidance  of  P.  P.  Quimby  of  Portland,  Me.,  she  came 
to  this  village  with  another  Quimby  pupil,  who  had  become  much  attached  to  her. 
While  here  she  gave  a  number  of  public  lectures  which  she  reported  to  the  Portland 
healer  in  a  series  of  charming  letters.  The  title  of  one  lecture  she  wrote  was  publicly 
advertised  as  'P.  P.  Quimhy's  Spiritual  Science  Healing  Disease s  ~~ 


222  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Deism  or  Rochester-Rapping-Spiritualism.'  Her  work  here  is  considered  by  some 
as  the  beginning  of  her  career  as  the  founder  of  Christian  Science. 

At  47.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  131. 

Left  on  State  131  is  the  entrance  (L)  to  the  Knox  State  Arboretum  and  the  Academy 
of  Arts  and  Sciences,  1.1  m.  (adm.  free).  In  the  arboretum  are  specimen  trees, 
shrubs,  and  wild  flowers  native  to  Maine.  The  museum,  a  two-story  brick  building, 
has  a  valuable  collection  of  Maine  minerals,  Red  Paint  and  Indian  artifacts,  two 
fine  American  bird  collections,  and  a  collection  of  sea  shells  and  marine  life  in- 
digenous to  Maine. 

Maine  State  Prison  (visiting  hours  Tues.  and  Fri.,  2.30^1),  48.2  m.,  on 
Limestone  Hill  and  surrounded  by  high  gray  walls  of  field  stone,  has  ac- 
commodations for  300  prisoners.  The  first,  and  possibly  the  only,  military 
execution  in  Maine  took  place  on  this  site  when  Jeremiah  Braun  was 
hanged  on  the  charge  of  having  guided  a  British  raiding  party  that  in  1780 
captured  General  Peleg  Wadsworth,  a  grandfather  of  Henry  Wadsworth 
Longfellow. 

The  prison  site  was  sold  to  the  State  in  1824  by  William  King,  Governor 
of  Maine  in  1820. 

Capital  punishment  was  abolished  in  Maine  in  1876,  re-established  in  1883, 
and  finally  abolished  in  1887  at  the  request  of  the  Governor  who  said  that 
it  had  not  deterred  crime. 
THOMASTON  (alt.  100,  Thomaston  Town,  pop.  2214),  48.7  m. 

Steamship  service  to  coastal  points  and  Monhegan  and  other  islands;  schedules 

vary;  inquire  at  wharves. 

Thomaston,  lying  at  the  head  of  the  long  narrow  inlet  into  which  St. 
George  River  drains,  is  a  favorite  port  of  call  of  yachtsmen.  Its  main 
street  has  many  attractive  old  homes  with  notable  doorways.  A  trading 
post  stood  here  in  1630  and  occupation  of  the  site  was  fairly  continuous 
in  spite  of  Indian  attacks,  though  actual  settlement  did  not  begin  until 
more  than  a  hundred  years  later.  Real  development  began  after  the 
Revolutionary  War;  Henry  Knox,  who  had  made  a  name  for  himself  at 
the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  who  became  a  trusted  adviser  of  Washington, 
and  who  was  Secretary  of  War  both  under  the  Confederation  and  during 
Washington's  first  term  as  President,  had  married  a  granddaughter  of 
Samuel  Waldo,  proprietor  of  the  enormous  Waldo  Patent  (see  above). 
Through  purchase  and  marriage  he  acquired  a  large  part  of  the  patent 
and,  at  the  close  of  his  Cabinet  career,  came  to  live  in  Thomaston,  which 
had  been  incorporated  in  1777.  Knox  made  many  plans  for  the  develop- 
ment of  his  holdings,  trying  shipbuilding,  brickmaking,  lime  burning, 
farming,  lumbering,  and  many  other  industries,  but,  though  an  able 
military  man,  he  was  a  poor  businessman.  His  open-handed  hospitality 
contributed  to  his  failure  to  amass  a  fortune. 

The  community  prospered,  however,  and  was  at  one  time  active  in  ship- 
building, reaching  its  peak  of  prosperity  and  population  about  1840,  when 
its  population  was  three  times  as  large  as  it  is  today. 
The  plain  frame  Cilley  House  (private},  25  Main  St.,  was  the  home  of 
Jonathan  Cilley,  a  Congressional  Representative  from  Maine,  when  he 


TOUR  1 :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  223 

was  killed  in  a  duel  in  February,  1838,  on  the  old  Bladensburg,  Maryland, 
dueling  ground,  close  to  the  District  of  Columbia  Line.  Cilley  had  risen  in 
Congress  to  denounce  an  article  that  had  appeared  in  an  anonymous 
gossip  column  of  a  New  York  newspaper  with  a  charge  of  immorality 
against  another  Congressman.  He  fastened  the  blame  for  the  article  on  a 
Virginian,  was  challenged  to  a  duel  by  William  Graves,  a  Representative 
from  Kentucky,  and  fell  at  the  third  shot. 

On  a  hill  (R)  at  49.5  m.  is  Montpelier  (open  daily  10-6,  June  1  to  Nov.  1; 
adm.  50^),  a  recent  reproduction  of  the  home  built  in  1793  by  General 
Henry  Knox  (see  above}.  This  large,  imposing  two-story  and  basement 
structure  has  a  low  roof  surrounded  by  a  balustrade  and  surmounted  with 
a  monitor  that  rises  between  the  four  inside  chimneys.  The  central  third 
of  the  facade  is  elliptical  and  ornamented  by  four  engaged  columns;  the 
pedimented  doorway  is  reached  by  a  stairway  leading  to  a  wide  roofless 
piazza.  The  18  rooms  of  the  house  are  furnished  with  old  pieces,  many  of 
them  from  the  original  structure;  they  also  contain  many  relics  of  the 
general  and  a  portrait  of  him  by  Gilbert  Stuart. 

At  49.6  m.  is  (R)  a  junction  with  State  131  (see  Tour  I/). 

At  50.2  m.  (R)  is  the  Lawrence  Portland  Cement  Company  Plant  (not  open 
to  visitors),  one  of  the  largest  of  its  kind  in  New  England.  The  quarry  is 
between  the  highway  and  the  plant. 

ROCKLAND  (alt.  40,  pop.  9075),  53  m.,  separated  from  Thomaston  and 
incorporated  in  1848  as  East  Thomaston,  is  a  trading  center  and  shire 
town  for  Knox  County.  The  many  summer  residents  and  visitors  have 
been  a  good  source  of  trade.  The  city  fronts  on  the  fine  harbor  that  the 
Indians  called  Catawamkeag  (great  landing  place).  Fishing,  shipping, 
shipbuilding,  and  limestone  quarrying  have  been  the  chief  industries  of 
the  past. 

The  Birthplace  (1892)  of  Edna  St.  Vincent  Millay,  the  poet,  is  at  200 
Broadway. 

The  Community  Yacht  Club  and  Public  Landing,  Main  and  Pleasant  Sts., 
has  floats,  docks,  and  clubhouses  for  visitors. 

At  Rockland  is  a  junction  with  State  17  (see  Tour  17). 

Right  from  Rockland  on  Main  St.;  at  2  m.  left  on  a  tarred  road;  at  2.1  m.  left  to 
large  triangular  Range  Beacons,  3.7  m.  These  open  structures  are  used  by  vessels  of 


the  U.S.  Navy  in  sighting  their  positions  on  the  measured  trial  course  off  Rockland, 

rked  by 
ditioned  are  sent  there  for  tests  of  speed  and  engine  efficiency. 


which  is  marked  by  six  buoys.   New  vessels  and  old  ones  that  have  been  recon- 


OWL'S  HEAD  (alt.  40,  Owl's  Head  Town,  pop.  574),  4.6  m.,  a  summer  resort,  lies 
on  the  far  end  of  a  tree-sheltered  cape.  Visited  by  Champlain  in  1605,  it  was  then 
called  Bedabedec  Point  (Ind.:  'cape  of  the  waters').  The  town  was  the  scene  of  a 
bloody  encounter  in  1755  when  Captain  Cargyle,  famous  Indian  fighter  employing 
Indian  tactics,  killed  and  scalped  nine  braves,  receiving  a  bounty  of  £200  each. 
During  the  Revolution  and  the  War  of  1812,  British  and  American  privateers  were 
active  in  near-by  waters. 

Left  from  Owl's  Head  to  the  heavily  wooded  U.S.  Lighthouse  Reservation  at  5.3  m. 


224  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Owl's  Head  Light  (open  9-11.30  all  year;  1-5  July- Aug.;  1-3  remainder  of  year),  was 
built  in  1826,  during  the  administration  of  President  John  Quincy  Adams.  The  old 
white  tower  is  only  26  feet  high;  but  because  of  its  situation,  the  light  can  be  seen 
1 6  miles  at  sea.  In  summer,  yachts  cruising  in  these  waters  are  welcomed  by  three 
strokes  of  a  bell.  Snowshoeing  parties  from  Rockland  visit  the  snow-clad  headland 
in  winter. 

At  5.7  m.  the  road  ends.  From  this  point  it  is  but  a  short  walk  to  the  shore  where  the 
red  and  yellow  quartz-streaked  face  of  the  headland,  worn  smooth  by  the  pounding 
of  the  surf,  rears  itself  nearly  100  feet  above  sea  level.  Tall  spruce,  their  roots 
clinging  tenaciously  to  the  few  inches  of  soil,  crown  the  summit. 

There  is  steamship  service,  also,  from  Rockland  to  the  islands  of  Vinal- 
haven,  North  Haven,  Deer  Isle,  Isle  Au  Haut,  and  Swan's  Island  which 
lie  in  broad  Penobscot  Bay  and,  to  the  east  of  it,  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean 
(see  Island  Tours}. 

NORTH  HAVEN  (pop.  476),  about  12  miles  from  Rockland,  at  the  mouth  of 
Penobscot  Bay,  is  a  fashionable  area  with  a  number  of  summer  estates.  There  is  a 
flying  field  here. 

VINALHAVEN  (pop.  1843),  is  south  of  North  Haven,  with  which  it  is  con- 
nected by  ferry.  It  also  has  many  large  summer  homes.  The  town  was  settled  in 
1789  and  when  incorporated,  14  years  later,  was  named  for  John  Vinal  of  Boston. 
It  has  a  larger  permanent  population  than  North  Haven  because  of  its  active 

franite  quarries,  from  which  came  the  51  to  55  foot  monoliths  of  the  Cathedral  of 
t.  John  the  Divine  in  New  York  City. 

DEER  ISLE  (pop.  1226),  on  the  eastern  side  of  Penobscot  Bay,  is  an  hourglass- 
shaped  area,  about  12  miles  in  length.  It  has  much  charm  but  has  received  little 
development,  which  is  a  satisfaction  to  those  who  cherish  its  primitive  character. 
Its  permanent  inhabitants  are  skilled  boatmen,  some  of  them  having  manned 
yachts  in  the  international  races. 

ISLE  AU  HAUT  (pop.  89),  presenting  a  headland  to  the  Atlantic  some  miles 
south  of  Deer  Isle,  is  the  administrative  headquarters  of  Isle  Au  Haut  Township, 
which  contains  about  a  dozen  smaller  islands.  It  is  chiefly  visited  by  the  more 
hardy  summer  visitors.  The  near-by  waters  have  been  the  scene  of  a  number  of 
wrecks. 
At  54.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  Waldo  Ave. 

Right  on  Waldo  Ave.  to  the  Rockland  Breakwater  which  extends  from  Jameson 
Point  nearly  i  mile  across  the  harbor  entrance  and  makes  an  excellent  point  from 
which  to  survey  the  city  and  environs.  There  is  a  Lighthouse  at  the  end  of  the 
breakwater. 

ROCKPORT  (alt.  100,  Rockport  Town,  pop.  1651),  59.4  m.,  another 
town  with  a  diminishing  population,  was  set  off  from  Camden  in  1891. 
From  the  bridge  at  the  southern  end  of  the  village  is  a  remarkable  view  of 
the  harbor  and  of  the  white  lighthouse  jutting  out  on  the  point.  Goose 
River  forms  a  V-shaped  waterfront  that  has  been  landscaped  by  Mrs. 
Mary  Louise  Bok  (see  below}.  Unusually  interesting  are  the  Old  Lime 
Kilns  near-by. 

Spite  House  (R),  on  Deadman's  Point,  was  moved  in  1925  over  land  and 
water  from  Phippsburg,  85  miles  away,  by  Donald  W.  Dodge  of  Phila- 
delphia. The  story  of  this  house  is  closely  associated  with  the  James 
McCobb  House  at  Phippsburg  Center  (see  Tour  IE).  James  McCobb, 
prominent  Phippsburg  citizen  of  his  time,  was  three  times  married  and 
built  the  so-called  Minott  House  in  Phippsburg  for  his  second  wife. 
Some  time  after  his  third  marriage,  the  elder  McCobb  died  while  hic  v»r 


TOUR  1 :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  225 

Thomas  was  at  sea.  Mrs.  McCobb,  who  had  also  been  previously  married, 
arranged  a  marriage  between  a  son  by  her  first  husband  and  the  sister  of 
Thomas  McCobb,  thereby  obtaining  practical  control  of  one  of  the  largest 
estates  in  the  section.  When  Thomas  McCobb  returned  and  learned  of 
the  marriage  and  its  consequences,  he  became  incensed  and  declared  he 
would  build  himself  a  mansion  large  enough  and  sufficiently  grand  to 
overshadow  the  residence  occupied  by  his  stepmother.  In  1806  he  built 
this  beautiful  structure,  which,  from  the  day  of  its  completion,  has  borne 
its  present  name. 

CAMDEN  (alt.  100,  Camden  Town,  pop.  3606),  61  m.,  one  of  Maine's 
loveliest  towns,  lies  '  under  the  high  mountains  of  the  Penobscot,  against 
whose  feet  the  sea  doth  beat,'  as  Captain  John  Smith  described  the  site. 
Champlain,  who  visited  the  Penobscot  in  1605,  named  the  Camden  Hills 
the  'mountains  of  Bedabedec'  on  his  map;  so  steeply  do  they  rise  from 
the  blue  waters  of  Penobscot  Bay,  that  the  magnificent  yachts  dropping 
anchor  all  summer  long  in  the  harbor  seem  from  a  distance  to  ride  in  the 
heart  of  the  business  district. 

The  town  has  developed  rapidly  as  a  small  summer  resort  in  recent  years, 
the  estate  valuation  now  being  more  than  half  that  of  Bar  Harbor.  It  has 
also  become  a  winter  sports  center.  The  summer  residents  have  taken 
particular  interest  in  the  landscaping  of  the  town,  a  project  that  is 
stimulated  by  annual  contests  in  which  prizes  are  awarded. 

Behind  the  Camden  Public  Library,  Main  St.,  is  an  Amphitheater  with  a 
seating  capacity  of  1500,  landscaped  with  native  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants. 

The  old  Camden  Opera  House,  cor.  Elm  and  Washington  Sts.,  has  been 
remodeled  into  a  modern  auditorium  with  elaborate  interior  decorations. 
Mrs.  Mary  Louise  Bok,  daughter  of  the  late  Cyrus  H.  K.  Curtis,  a 
summer  resident  for  many  years,  has  been  a  leader  in  carrying  out  many 
municipal  improvements.  A  notable  group  of  musicians,  including  Josef 
Hoffman,  pianist,  make  their  summer  homes  in  Camden. 

1.  Left  from  Camden  on  Mechanic  St.,  the  southern  section  of  State  137;  straight 
ahead  (R)  from  State  137  at  1  m.\  left  at  1.5  m.,  passing  a  lake  at  3.4  m.;  left  at  3.5 
m.  and  again  at  3.7  m.  to  the  Camden  Bowl,  in  which  carnivals  and  competitive 
sports  events  are  held  in  summer  and  winter. 

2.  Left  from  Camden  on  Mountain  St.,  which  enters  the  northern  section  of  State 
137,  at  1  m.,  is  the  junction  with  a  trail  leading  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Battle  (alt. 
800).  From  this  height,  occupied  by  cannon  during  the  War  of  1812,  are  beautiful 
views  of  Penobscot  Bay  and  the  surrounding  hills.  An  area  of  approximately  6000 
acres  between  Lake  Megunticook  and  the  seashore,  including  part  of  Mt.  Megunti- 
cook,  Mt.  Battie,  and  Bald  Mountain  is  being  proposed  for  National  park  devel- 
opment. 

At  71.7  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  gravel  road. 

Right  on  this  road  is  NORTHPORT  (alt.  140,  Northport  Town,  pop.  413),  0.5  m., 
near  Saturday  Cove,  an  arm  of  Penobscot  Bay;  many  delightful  woodland  walks 
lead  from  the  village  to  the  shore. 

At  78.3  m.  is  (R)  the  Belfast  City  Park  with  excellent  camping  and  trailer 
facilities. 

BELFAST  (alt.  160,  pop.  4993),  79.3  m.,  a  popular  tourist  center  and 


226  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

seat  of  Waldo  County,  has  parallel  streets  that  follow  a  rolling  terrain, 
which  rises  in  a  majestic  sweep  from  the  banks  of  the  Passagassawakeag. 
Its  highest  points  command  a  view  over  the  island-sprinkled  waters  of 
Penobscot  Bay. 

The  town  was  named  for  Belfast,  Ireland,  by  a  group  of  Scotch-Irish 
settlers  who  came  to  the  place  in  1770,  after  having  tried  settlement  at 
Londonderry,  N.H.  Belfast  was  harassed  by  the  British  in  1779  and  its 
settlers  were  driven  away,  but  they  successfully  re-established  themselves 
five  years  later.  The  city  reached  its  peak  of  population  in  1860  with 
5520  inhabitants,  but  has  since  achieved  prosperity  by  catering  to  the 
many  summer  residents  and  visitors. 

Reminiscent  of  an  earlier  prosperity  are  the  many  fine  old  houses,  whose 
chief  interest  lies  in  their  variation  on  the  standard  igth-century  archi- 
tecture. 

The  James  P.  White  House  (private),  30  Church  St.,  is  a  simple  white 
structure  built  in  1825.  Fine  old  elms  shade  the  broad  lawn,  which  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  picket  fence. 

The  Clay  House  (private),  130  Main  St.,  opposite  Waldo  Ave.,  was  built 
in  1825.  It  is  an  attractive  structure  of  the  Greek  Revival  type  with 
Doric  columns. 

The  Old  Johnson  House,  100  High  St.,  set  in  beautiful  grounds,  is  a  hip- 
roof structure  with  a  lookout,  built  in  1812.  The  Corinthian  columns  on 
the  front  and  sides  may  be  later  additions.  Its  shutters  were  the  first  used 
in  Belfast. 

The  Ben  Field  House  (private)^  137  High  St.,  is  a  large,  square,  hip-roof 
structure  with  a  den  tiled  cornice,  built  in  1807. 

The  old  Blaisdell  House  (private),  0.4  mile  south  of  the  center  on  High  St., 
OH  spacious  grounds,  has  a  portico  with  four  Ionic  columns  and  an 
elaborately  carved  pediment. 

At  Belfast  is  a  junction  with  State  3  (see  Tour  16). 

1.  Left  from  the  center  on  Main  St.,  State  3;  right  at  0.2  m.  on  Waldo  Ave.  to  the 
junction  with  Poor  Mills  Rd.  at  1.4  w.;  left  here  to  the  old  Joseph  Miller  Tavern, 
2.4  m.  (R).  It  has  the  only  salt-box  roof  left  in  Belfast,  tiny  panes  in  the  windows, 
and  no  eaves,  a  characteristic  of  early  building  in  the  vicinity. 

2.  North  from  the  center  on  High  St.  at  1.2  m.  (R)  is  the  Otis  House  (private), 
a  one-and-a-half-story  gable-end  house  on  Nickerson  Hill,  overlooking  the  river; 
it  was  built  in  1800. 

3.  Visible  from  Belfast's  waterfront,  and  lying  about  6  miles  offshore  in  Penobscot 
Bay,  is  Islesboro,  a  long,  low,  tree-clad  island  reached  from  Belfast.    (See  Island 
Tours.) 

Sec.  c.  BELFAST  to  ELLSWORTH,  61.3  m. 

North  of  Belfast  US  1  continues  to  follow  the  west  bank  of  the  Penobscot, 
running  through  scenic  country  to  Bangor;  at  Bangor  it  cuts  sharply  SE. 
to  reach  the  coast  again,  traversing  placid  farmlands  that  contrast  with 
the  wooded  hills. 


TOUR  1 :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  227 

US  1  leaves  BELFAST  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b),Qm. 

On  the  northern  outskirts  of  the  city,  0.5  m.,  the  route  crosses  Passa- 
gassawakeag  River  on  the  Belfast  Memorial  Bridge,  which  is  dedicated  to 
Waldo  County's  enlisted  men  in  the  World  War.  From  a  hill  beyond  the 
bridge  are  seen,  to  the  rear,  the  dark  red  warehouses  of  Belfast's  water- 
front. From  US  1,  between  this  point  and  Belfast,  are  a  succession  of 
views  of  the  waters  of  Penobscot  Bay  and  its  islands. 

At  1.9  m.  is  (L)  Stephenson  Tavern  (private},  a  story-and-a-half  house  of 
simple  lines,  built  in  1800;  there  is  a  well  sweep  in  the  front  yard.  The  old 
pine  sign,  bearing  a  black  horse  and  the  name  of  Jerome  Stephenson,  is  so 
weather-beaten  that  the  painted  horse  and  lettering  stand  out  a  quarter 
of  an  inch. 

SEARSPORT  (alt.  50,  Searsport  Town,  pop.  1414),  5.9  m.,  has  a  small, 
compact  business  district  on  its  main  street  (US  1).  The  rest  of  the  village 
stretches  along  the  highway,  which  affords  many  vistas  of  Penobscot  Bay. 
In  the  heyday  of  New  England  shipping,  Searsport  was  known  as  the 
home  of  expert  seamen,  and  it  has  been  the  birthplace  of  many  United 
States  naval  officers.  As  a  terminus  of  the  Bangor  and  Aroostook  Rail- 
road, it  ships  much  of  the  annual  potato  crop  of  Aroostook  County. 

In  an  old  brick  house  that  was  built  in  the  village  during  the  days  of  the 
town's  prosperity,  is  housed  the  Penobscot  Marine  Museum,  containing 
an  unusually  fine  collection  of  relics  and  papers  connected  with  the  ships, 
shipowners,  and  captains  of  the  days  when  the  Penobscot  was  one  of  the 
most  important  shipbuilding  centers  of  the  Nation. 

At  6.2  m.  (R)  stands  the  Home  of  Lincoln  Colcord,  a  writer  of  sea  stories  and 
the  son  of  a  sea  captain;  he  was  born  off  Cape  Horn.  His  home,  for  several 
generations  the  snug  haven  to  which  his  adventurous  forebears  retired  at 
the  end  of  their  voyages,  is  beautifully  situated  above  the  bay. 

In  this  area  US  1  passes  many  estates,  also  many  farms  that  have  achieved 
prosperity  by  catering  to  the  needs  of  their  summer  neighbors. 

STOCKTON  SPRINGS  (alt.  150,  Stockton  Springs  Town,  pop.  877), 
10.1  m.,  has  become  relatively  prosperous  because  of  its  fish  canneries  and 
fertilizer  factories.  In  1890  an  attempt  was  made  to  exploit  the  spring  for 
which  the  town  was  named  but  failed  when  it  was  found  that  sediment 
settled  in  the  bottles  when  the  water  was  ready  to  market. 

Here  is  a  junction  with  State  3  (see  Tour  IK). 
PROSPECT  (alt.  90,  Prospect  Town,  pop.  388),  14.6  m. 

Right  from  Prospect  on  State  174  is  Fort  Knox,  2.5  m.,  now  a  State  reservation.  The 
site  for  this  fort  was  selected  during  the  days  of  the  heated  boundary  disputes  with 
Great  Britain,  but  work  was  not  begun  until  1846;  the  fort  was  never  entirely 
completed,  though  troops  were  trained  here  during  the  Civil  War.  This  massive 
structure  was  built  of  Mt.  Waldo  granite  and  commands  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
views  on  the  Penobscot  River. 

A  short  distance  beyond  Fort  Knox  is  the  western  approach  to  the  Waldo- 
Hancock  Bridge  (toll,  50*f)  on  State  3  (see  Tour  IK). 

The  granite  ledges  of  Mosquito  Mountain,  16.6  m.,  rise  sharply  (L). 


228  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

At  17.4  m.,  along  both  sides  of  the  road,  is  the  Mt.  Waldo  Granite  Corpora- 
tion Plant  (open  to  public],  with,  near-by,  the  deep  clefts  from  which 
countless  tons  of  fine  granite  have  been  quarried. 

Mount  Waldo  (alt.  1062),  highest  of  several  small  peaks  in  this  region,  can 
be  seen  (L)  at  intervals.  Mt.  Waldo  granite  has  been  used  in  many 
public  buildings. 

The  flat  lands  here  bordering  the  river  are  one  of  the  several  points  on  the 
Maine  coast  where  Captain  Kidd  is  said  to  have  buried  a  part  of  his 
treasure.  A  tinker  who  lived  on  the  spot  refused  to  allow  searchers  on  the 
property;  after  his  death  a  number  of  attempts  were  made  to  find  the 
supposedly  hidden  jewels  and  gold.  Legend  has  it  that  the  hunters  were 
frightened  away  by  mysterious  noises  from  the  earth;  no  treasure  has 
ever  been  found  here. 

FRANKFORT  (alt.  180,  Frankfort  Town,  pop.  468),  18.8  m.,  a  village 
shaded  by  huge  century-old  elms,  belies  its  history  of  industrial  prosper- 
ity. Log  cabins  first  appeared  here  in  1756,  and  a  permanent  settlement 
was  made  in  1760.  Shipbuilding  began  early  and,  by  the  time  of  the 
Revolution,  Frankfort  was  important  enough  to  draw  the  attention  of  the 
British  Navy.  Many  of  the  33  ships  destroyed  along  the  Penobscot  in 
1779  were  tied  up,  or  under  construction,  in  this  port.  The  English  bom- 
barded the  settlement  in  1814,  subsequently  occupying  it. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Frankfort,  the  road,  which  is  very  hilly  and  winding, 
affords  many  panoramas  of  the  valley.  Small  farms  cling  to  the  hillsides. 

At  20.9  m.  (L)  is  the  Blaisdell  House  (closed),  built  1798,  a  two-and-a-half- 
story  yellow  structure  with  gable  roof  and  two  dormer  windows. 

WINTERPORT  (alt.  80,  Winterport  Town,  pop.  1437),  21.5  m.,  whose 
name  was  derived  from  its  position  at  the  head  of  winter  navigation  on  the 
Penobscot  River,  had  at  one  time  some  importance  as  a  shipbuilding  com- 
munity and  a  port.  In  the  1936  State  election  Winterport  was  the  first 
and  only  town  in  Maine  to  use  voting  machines. 

At  28  m.  (R)  is  Dorothea  Lynde  Dix  Memorial  Park  on  the  site  of  the  Isaac 
Hopkins  farm,  on  which  in  1802  the  prison  and  almshouse  reformer,  for 
whom  the  park  is  named,  was  born.  When  Miss  Dix  went  to  Boston  as  a 
young  girl,  she  was  so  shocked  by  conditions  in  public  institutions  that 
she  began  a  nation-wide  campaign  that  resulted  in  marked  reforms. 

HAMPDEN  HIGHLANDS  (alt.  150,  Hampden  Town),  28.6  m.,  has 
blue-green  river  vistas.  In  the  latter  part  of  May  the  numerous  orchards 
in  the  township  and  in  Orrington  across  the  Penobscot  blanket  the 
countryside  with  translucent  pink  and  white  beauty  and  send  forth  a 
delicate  scent  that  permeates  the  whole  area. 

HAMPDEN  (alt.  80,  Hampden  Town,  pop.  2417),  29.8  m.,  on  the  banks 
of  the  Penobscot  River,  a  suburban  village  flanked  by  farms,  was  settled 
in  1767,  two  years  before  Bangor,  and  for  a  long  time  rivaled  that  town 
in  importance.  During  the  War  of  1812  the  British  drove  the  outnum- 
bered militia  from  the  settlement. 


TOUR  1 :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  229 

Here  is  a  junction  with  State  9  (see  Tour  13). 

Huge  piles  of  pulpwood  are  seen  in  the  Penobscot  (R)  as  the  route  passes 
through  the  outskirts  of  Bangor. 

BANGOR  (alt.  100,  pop.  28,749)  (see  BANGOR),  34.8  m.,  is  at  a  junction 
with  US  2  (see  Tour  4). 

BREWER  (alt.  100,  pop.  6329),  35.5  m.,  is  a  city  somewhat  over- 
shadowed by  Bangor,  across  the  Penobscot  River.  It  was  named  for 
Colonel  John  Brewer  who  was  one  of  the  first  settlers,  as  well  as  the  first 
postmaster.  Once  famous  for  the  wooden  ships  built  in  its  yards,  the  city's 
present  prosperity  depends  on  the  activity  of  pulp  and  paper  mills. 

Chillicote  House,  now  an  antique  shop  (L),  at  the  corner  of  State  and  N. 
Main  Sts.,  is  a  conspicuous  landmark  standing  at  the  crest  of  a  short  hill 
that  drops  sharply  to  the  east  approach  of  the  Bangor-Brewer  bridge. 

At  80  Chamberlain  St.  is  the  Joshua  Chamberlain  House  (private). 
General-  Chamberlain,  noted  for  his  gallantry  during  the  Civil  War,  re- 
ceived the  Congressional  Medal  of  Honor  for  his  part  in  the  defense  of 
Little  Round  Top  at  Gettysburg;  and  as  a  further  reward  he  was  dele- 
gated to  review  and  receive  the  arms  and  colors  of  the  Confederate  Army. 
In  spite  of  repeated  injuries  received  while  in  active  service,  he  was  able 
to  serve  his  State  as  Governor  (1867-71),  and  Bowdoin  College  as 
president  (1871-83). 

At  Brewer  is  a  junction  with  State  178  (see  Tour  5). 

At  38.1  m.  is  a  sweeping  view  across  valleys  and  mountains. 

HOLDEN  (alt.  190,  Holden  Town,  pop.  543),  42.2  m.  The  Town  HaU 
and  Grange  Hall  (R)  mark  the  corporate  and  social  center  of  the  town- 
ship. The  National  Grange  of  the  Patrons  of  Husbandry,  of  which  the 
local  lodges  are  members,  was  organized  in  1867  by  Oliver  H.  Kelley,  an 
employee  of  the  U.S.  Department  of  Agriculture  who  felt  the  need  of  a 
fraternal  organization  to  unite  the  farmers  for  social  and  educational  pur- 
poses. The  lodges  became  politically  important,  serving  as  local  forums; 
they  are  particularly  active  in  Maine.  Grange  suppers  and  meetings  are 
open  to  the  public  and  visitors  who  want  to  study  the  State  are  advised  to 
attend  the  meetings,  which  are  always  advertised.  The  suppers  are 
standardized  —  baked  beans,  ham,  cold  slaw,  pie  and  cake. 

EAST  HOLDEN  (alt.  100,  Holden  Town),  43.5  m.,  is  at  a  crossroads 
where  overnight  cabins  outnumber  the  residences. 

At  46.4  m.  is  a  beautiful  view  of  Lake  Lucerne. 

LUCERNE-IN-MAINE  (alt.  440,  Dedham  Town,  pop.  279),  46.6  m.,  is 
a  resort  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Lucerne,  drawing  winter  sports  enthusiasts 
as  well  as  summer  visitors.  The  Clubhouse  (R),  just  off  the  highway,  was 
the  halfway  house  on  the  old  Bangor-Ellsworth  stagecoach  route;  it  has 
been  much  remodeled.  Thick  woods  nearly  conceal  (L)  the  huge  log 
tourist  lodge  and  tennis  courts  and  (R)  a  golf  course,  bridle  paths,  hiking 
trails,  and  a  bathing  beach.  This  resort  was  carefully  planned  by  the  head 


230  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

of  a  lumbering  firm  who  could  not  bear  to  see  the  natural  beauty  of  the 
lake  shore  and  hills  spoiled. 

ELLSWORTH  (alt.  100,  pop.  3557),  61.3  m.,  the  county  seat  and  only 
city  in  Hancock  County,  was  settled  in  1763.  The  community  has  seen 
extensive  lumbering  operations,  a  period  of  shipbuilding,  and  an  industrial 
era  brought  about  by  the  development  of  its  water  power.  A  large  part  of 
the  business  district,  and  many  of  the  old  buildings,  were  destroyed  by 
fire  in  1933,  but  the  center  has  been  rebuilt.  Today  the  town  is  a  happy 
combination  of  gracious  old  homes  and  attractive  modern  business  build- 
ings. An  example  of  this  is  the  juxtaposition  of  the  new  City  Hall,  which 
shows  a  Scandinavian  influence,  and  the  old  white  Congregational  Church, 
which  dominate  the  business  district  from  the  east  side  of  State  Street 
Hill.  The  latter,  built  in  181 2,  has  a  portico  with  delicately  fluted  columns, 
and  a  slender  spire. 

The  sparkling  Union  River  flows  through  the  center  of  the  city,  and  from 
the  bridge  (R)  a  6o-foot  falls  is  visible. 

The  Black  Mansion  (open  May  30-Nov.  1;  adm.  50£),  on  W.  Main  St., 
built  about  1802,  was  the  home  of  Colonel  John  Black,  land  agent  for 
William  Bingham  who  owned  large  tracts  of  land  east  of  the  Penobscot 
River.  Colonel  Black's  predecessor  in  the  agency  was  his  father-in-law, 
Colonel  David  Cobb,  an  aide-de-camp  of  General  Washington.  The  two- 
story  brick  house,  an  elegant  structure  in  the  tiny  frontier  settlement,  is  of 
modified  Georgian  design,  with  one-story  wings  that  may  have  been  added 
after  the  main  structure  was  built.  An  ornamental  cornice  and  a  balus- 
trade surround  the  low  roof.  The  main  structure  has  no  front  entrance; 
four  triple-hung,  shuttered  windows  open  out  on  a  low  porch  with  five 
Ionic  columns,  that  runs  the  length  of  the  main  building  and  is  surmounted 
with  a  balustrade.  A  notable  feature  of  the  interior  is  the  gracefully 
curving  staircase  rising  from  the  spacious  hall  that  divides  the  house  and 
parallels  its  front.  Many  of  Colonel  Black's  possessions  and  those  his  wife 
inherited  from  her  father  are  in  the  house;  other  articles  have  been  added 
since  the  house  became  public  property  in  1928.  Among  the  valued  relics 
are  a  miniature  of  Washington  by  one  of  the  Peales,  a  rare  volume  of  the 
Colonial  laws  of  Massachusetts,  and  a  high-backed  Dutch  chair  with  a 
hinged  seat  that  can  be  lengthened  to  form  a  couch  or  bed. 

The  Public  Library  (open  2  to  5),  State  St.,  once  the  Tisdale  house,  built 
before  1820,  retains  many  of  its  architectural  features,  such  as  arched 
doorways  and  fireplaces. 

At  Ellsworth  are  junctions  with  State  3  (see  Tour  IK  and  Tour  2)  and  with 
State  15  (see  Tour  3). 

Sec.  d.  ELLSWORTH  to  CALAIS,  123.9  m. 

Following  the  coast  for  several  miles,  US  1  then  passes  through  the  hunt- 
ing grounds  of  the  Passamaquoddy  Indians,  which  still  provide  good 
sport  in  season.  Broad  blueberry  plains  stretch  out  to  the  north,  and 
numerous  rivers  and  streams  along  the  route  provide  excellent  fishing. 


TOUR  1:   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  231 

US  1  leaves  ELLSWORTH  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  c),Qm. 
At  1  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  3  (see  Tour  2). 

At  3.6  m.  is  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Schoodic  Hills  and  Cadillac  moun- 
tain, also  various  other  hills  rising  from  and  around  Frenchman's  Bay. 

The  region  through  which  US  1  passes  here  has  small  farms  that  look 
fairly  prosperous,  and  much  wooded  land. 

HANCOCK  (alt.  40,  Hancock  Town,  pop.  760),  9.1  m.,  was  settled  in  1764 
and  incorporated  in  1828.  In  1890  the  township  had  a  population  of  1 190; 
the  decrease  has  been  gradual. 
At  11.8  m.  is  a  striking  view  of  Mt.  Desert  Island  and  its  hills. 

SULLIVAN  (alt.  60,  Sullivan  Town,  pop.  873),  12.3  m.,  a  small  hamlet,  is 
the  corporate  center  of  a  township  whose  many  summer  homes  are  spread 
out  along  US  1. 

The  Stone  Store  (closed),  in  the  center  of  the  village,  is  a  two-story 
gabled  building,  constructed  of  heavy  blocks  of  stone. 

At  18.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  186  (see  Tour  1Z,),  which  rejoins  US  1 
at  21.6  m. 

GOULDSBORO  (alt.  80,  Gouldsboro  Town,  pop.  1115),  22  m.,  is  princi- 
pally a  summer  resort  and  small  trading  center  for  the  Grindstone  Neck 
area.  David  Cobb  made  his  home  here  from  1796  to  1808.  During  those 
years  he  was  one  of  the  most  influential  citizens  of  Maine.  In  1795,  he  was 
appointed  agent  of  the  great  Bingham  estate  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  c),  moving 
to  Gouldsboro  in  1796,  and  in  1802  was  sent  to  the  Massachusetts  Legisla- 
ture to  represent  eastern  Maine. 

STEUBEN  (alt.  40,  Steuben  Town,  pop.  684),  26.8  m.,  when  incorporated 
in  1795,  was  named  in  honor  of  Baron  von  Steuben,  inspector  general  of 
the  Continental  Army. 

MILBRIDGE  (alt.  20,  Milbridge  Town,  pop.  1207),  32.3  m.,  lies  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Narraguagus,  its  main  street,  which  US  1  follows,  paralleling 
the  river.  From  the  highway  at  the  southern  end  of  the  village  there  is  a 
fine  view  of  the  offshore  islands  (boats  and  guides  for  deep-sea  fishing)^ . 
Lumbering,  lobster  fishing,  and  farming  are  the  main  sources  of  liveli- 
hood. A  knitting  mill  is  also  in  operation. 

A  boat  once  frequently  seen  along  the  Maine  coast  and  still  occasionally 
found  in  some  of  the  fishing  villages  of  Nova  Scotia  is  the  pinky.  ('Pinky7 
is  provincial  English  for  '  small.')  These  boats,  pointed  at  both  ends,  have 
wide  gunwales  rising  to  meet  in  a  stern  overhang.  In  1927,  Howard  L. 
Chapelle,  naval  architect  and  author  of  '  The  History  of  American  Sailing 
Ships/  revived  the  building  of  this  type  of  craft  in  the  Milbridge  yard. 

CHERRYFIELD  (alt.  50,  Cherryfield  Town,  pop.  mi),  37.8  m.,  lies  on 
both  sides  of  the  Narraguagus  River.  The  'Belgrade,'  a  full-rigged  bark 
that  carried  56  local  men  around  Cape  Horn  to  California  in  the  days  of 
the  gold  rush,  was  built  in  this  formerly  active  shipbuilding  community. 
Today  lumbering  and  blueberry  packing  are  the  chief  industries  of  the 


232  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

town.  The  highway  here  turns  north  along  the  eastern  bank  of  the 
river. 

HARRINGTON  (alt.  40,  Harrington  Town,  pop.  862),  44.1  m.,  was 
settled  about  1765  and  incorporated  in  1797.  Like  many  of  the  other 
villages  between  this  point  and  Ellsworth,  its  air  of  comfort  and  prosper- 
ity depends  largely  on  the  money  derived  from  the  summer  tourist  trade. 
Pleasant  Bay  is  a  favorite  spot  for  deep-sea  fishing. 

At  47.1  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road,  known  locally  as  the  Jeff  Davis 
Trail,  which  was  cut  in  1858  to  enable  members  of  the  U.S.  Coast  Survey 
to  transport  supplies  and  heavy  instruments  to  the  top  of  Humpback,  or 
Lead  Mountain.  Jefferson  Davis,  a  close  friend  of  Alexander  Bache, 
superintendent  of  the  Coast  Survey,  was  a  guest  at  the  survey  camp 
during  the  summer  when  the  trail  was  cut. 

Left  on  this  road  is  COLUMBIA  (alt.  60,  Columbia  Town,  pop.  409),  1.5  m., 
settled  soon  after  the  Revolutionary  War. 

The  road  continues  in  a  northwesterly  direction  on  a  2oo-square-mile  plateau, 
where  nearly  90  per  cent  of  the  country's  blueberries  are  raised.  Small  brooks 
meander  through  acres  of  the  low  bushes,  which  in  mid- June  are  covered  with  in- 
verted bell  blossoms.  Blueberry  packing  begins  in  August  and  lasts  through1  Sep- 
tember. Men  in  large  straw  hats,  women  in  sunbonnets,  and  barefoot  children 
work  from  dawn  to  sundown  raking,  winnowing,  and  boxing  the  berries  to  be 
trucked  to  the  canning  factories. 

The  blueberry  industry  has  grown  up  in  the  wake  of  lumbering;  the  plants  quickly 
cover  the  thin  sandy  soil  after  the  trees  are  cut,  and  they  need  little  cultivation. 
The  land  is  burned  over  every  third  year  to  stimulate  new  growth.  The  spruce  in 
this  area  was  removed  in  the  first  quarter  of  the  i9th  century  to  provide  masts  and 
spars  for  ships  built  in  the  near-by  yards.  'Blueberry  plains'  or  'barrens'  as  they 
are  locally  called,  are  privately  owned  and  protected  by  the  State.  'Bootleg  ber- 
ries' —  those  stolen  by  night  pickers  —  are  not  so  common  as  they  once  were. 

COLUMBIA  FALLS  (alt.  60,  Columbia  Falls  Town,  pop.  583),  48.9  m., 
was  once  a  thriving  lumber  and  shipbuilding  center.  Today  the  in- 
habitants depend  on  general  farming  and  the  blueberry  industry  for  a 
livelihood.  The  prosperity  that  the  town  once  knew  is  revealed  by  the 
many  fine  old  homes  in  the  vicinity. 

The  Ruggles  House  (open),  constructed  after  a  design  by  Aaron  Sherman 
of  Duxbury,  Mass.,  who  planned  a  number  of  homes  in  Washington 
County,  was  built  about  1820  for  Judge  Thomas  Ruggles,  a  wealthy 
lumber  dealer.  The  house  is  notable  for  the  delicate  detail  of  its  exterior 
trim.  The  interior  woodwork,  executed  by  an  unknown  English  artisan, 
is  unusually  fine.  In  the  drawing  room  are  rope  beadings  on  the  cornices 
of  the  fireplace,  done  with  great  skill;  exquisite  carvings  on  the  molding 
and  delicate  indentures  on  the  chair  rail  of  the  wainscoting  and  on  the 
frames  and  sills  of  the  wide-shuttered  windows.  The  house  is  in  the 
process  of  restoration  (1937),  and  workmen  have  uncovered  rich  mahog- 
any-inlaid panels.  Of  particular  interest  is  a  swastika  design  which  was 
carved  with  a  common  penknife  below  the  mantel  of  the  dining  room.  It 
is  said  that  the  villagers  were  so  impressed  by  the  delicacy  of  the  work 
that  they  believed  the  carver's  knife  was  guided  by  the  hand  of  an  angel. 


TOUR  1 :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  233 

Arthur  Train  used  the  Ruggles  house  as  the  setting  for  his  short  story, 
'The  House  that  Tutt  Built.' 

The  Maude  Bucknam  House,  opposite  the  post  office,  a  yellow  Cape  Cod 
style  dwelling  with  a  wing,  was  built  about  1820.  It  is  notable  for  its 
woodwork. 

The  Lippincott  House,  opposite  the  Bucknam  House,  is  a  square,  hip-roof 
house,  with  such  interesting  interior  details  as  old-fashioned  rope  mold- 
ings and  many  fireplaces. 
At  50.2  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  187. 

Right  on  State  187,  which  cuts  through  the  deep  stillness  of  the  woods  and  runs 
along  the  western  shore  of  Englishman's  Bay  for  several  miles,  presenting  many 
attractive  scenes,  is  JONESPORT  (alt.  40,  Jonesport  Town,  pop.  1634),  12.7  m. 
Although  it  derives  considerable  income  from  summer  visitors,  Jonesport's  princi- 
pal means  of  livelihood  are  fishing  and  sardine  packing.  Jonesport  became  famous 
as  the  background  of  a  radio  program,  'Sunday  Night  at  Seth  Parker's.'  Island 
views,  camp  sites,  fishing,  and  beaches  are  its  resort  attractions. 

In  the  harbor  is  Beats  Island,  reached  from  Jonesport  by  ferry.  BEALS  (alt.  40, 
Beals  Town,  pop.  524)  is  a  fishing  community  on  Beals  Island,  as  well  as  a  summer 
resort  where  the  popular  sport  is  deep-sea  fishing. 

There  is  a  faithful  congregation  of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints 
at  Beals.  In  1865,  G.  J.  Adams,  a  disgruntled  Mormon  elder  from  Philadelphia,  suc- 
ceeded in  spite  of  local  opposition  in  recruiting  followers  here.  Prevailing  upon 
many  to  sell  their  worldly  goods,  he  organized  the  Palestine  Emigration  Association, 
issuing  a  religious  publication,  'The  Sword  of  Truth  and  the  Harbinger  of  Peace.' 
After  arrangements  had  been  made  with  the  Turkish  Government,  through  the 
Ameiican  consul,  175  members  left  on  a  52-day  voyage  to  Palestine  in  the  barken- 
tine,  'Nellie  Chapin,'  and  settled  near  Jaffa.  Beset  by  internal  dissensions,  mis- 
understandings with  the  natives,  and  disease  caused  by  poor  sanitary  conditions, 
the  colony  was  disbanded  within  a  year  and  the  survivers  returned  to  the  United 
States  (see  Education  and  Religion). 

Barney's  Point,  on  the  island,  was  named  for  Barney  Beal,  a  son  of  Manwaring 
Beal,  the  first  settler.  The  most  colorful  of  the  island  legends  are  woven  around  the 
bold  exploits  and  feats  of  strength  of  'Tall  Barney,'  who  always  wore  a  butcher's 
coat  and  whose  6  feet  7  inches  of  brawn  earned  him  fame  as  'cock  of  the  walk' 
from  Quoddy  Head  to  Cape  Elizabeth;  it  was  said  that  when  he  sat  in  a  chair  his 
hands  touched  the  floor.  Once,  while  he  was  fishing  off  Black's  Island,  armed 
sailors,  objecting  to  his  proximity  to  English  territory,  boarded  his  sloop,  intent  on 
capture  at  gun-point.  Barney  relieved  the  sailors  of  their  guns,  which  he  promptly 
broke  over  his  knee  and  tossed  back  into  the  British  boat.  When  the  Canadian 
guards  unwisely  persisted  in  their  intimidations,  Barney  twisted  the  arm  of  one 
until  he  broke  the  bone.  In  Rockland,  Barney  was  said  to  have  felled  a  horse  with 
his  fist,  when  a  truckman  drove  too  close  to  him.  In  a  Portland  saloon,  without 
argument  or  assistance,  he  proved  to  15  men  the  folly  of  deriding  a  'down-easter.' 

Perio's  Point,  near  the  Freeman  West  Beal  wharf,  was  named  for  Perio  Checkers, 
an  Indian,  who  is  the  only  man  known  to  have  scaled  the  perpendicular  side  of  the 
steep  cliff  at  this  point  that  still  challenges  climbers. 

In  the  past,  shipwrecks  in  this  vicinity  were  frequent.  Companies  were  formed  on 
the  mainland  to  salvage  boats  and  cargoes. 

The  Gravestone  of  Aunt  Peggy  Beal,  in  the  cemetery  near  the  public  square,  reminds 
natives  of  how  Aunt  Peggy  exorcised  the  powers  of  a  witch,  a  Mrs.  Thomas  Hicks. 
Mrs.  Hicks  had  the  habit  of  borrowing  from  Aunt  Peggy;  if  Aunt  Peggy  refused  to 
lend  what  Mrs.  Hicks  wanted,  it  either  died  or  disappeared.  The  last  thing  re- 
fused was  a  sheep,  which  died  the  following  day.  A  Salem  sailor,  who  claimed  to 
know  all  about  the  handling  of  witches,  told  Aunt  Peggy  to  build  a  hot  fire  and  to 


234  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

hold  the  sheep  over  it  until  it  was  scorched  all  over.  This  was  done.  'Now,'  he 
said,  '  a  boat  will  come  over  for  something  three  times,  and  you  must  refuse  each 
time,  even  though  the  witch  tells  you  where  the  article  is.'  It  all  came  about  as 
the  sailor  predicted,  so  the  story  goes,  and  the  day  following  the  refusal  of  the  third 
article,  Mrs.  Hicks  was  dead. 

Separated  from  its  larger  but  much  less  populous  neighbor,  Great  Wass  Island,  by 
the  Flying  Place,  a  narrow  strait,  Beals  Island  affords  views  of  surrounding  islands 
and  curious  sea-wrought  rock  formations.  Play  of  surf  is  most  spectacular  on 
stormy  days  in  the  Flying  Place. 

Great  Wass  Island  Coast  Guard  Station  is  notable  for  its  equipment  and  drills.  The 
Seacoast  Mission  Ship  regularly  visits  the  island  lighthouse. 

In  this  area  US  1  continues  through  blueberry  plains;  the  homes  show  few 
evidences  of  prosperity,  being  weather-beaten  and  unpainted. 

JONESBORO  (alt.  60,  Jonesboro  Town,  pop.  468),  57.6  m.,  a  small  farm- 
ing community  on  the  Chandler  River,  had  a  Revolutionary  War  heroine 
in  the  person  of  Hannah  Weston,  a  descendant  of  Hannah  Dustin,  who 
became  famous  in  the  Indian  massacre  at  Haverhill,  Mass.,  in  1697. 
With  a  younger  sister,  Hannah  Weston  carried  50  pounds  of  lead  and 
powder,  collected  from  neighbors,  through  the  woods  from  Jonesboro  to 
Machias  for  use  during  the  'Margaretta'  episode  (see  below)  in  June,  1775. 
The  Grave  of  Hannah  Weston  is  near  the  highway  on  the  Charles  Fish 
farm  at  the  northern  end  of  the  village. 

At  59.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  1A. 

Left  on  State  1A  is  WHITNEYVILLE  (alt.  70,  Whitneyville  Town,  pop.  229), 
4m.,  &  small  farming  community  on  the  western  bank  of  the  Machias  River  that  is 
the  terminus  of  an  annual  spring  log  drive.  It  is  also  a  terminus  of  the  Grand 
Lake-Machias  Waters  Canoe  Trip  (see  Sports  and  Recreation:  Canoeing).  A  marker 
near  the  river  indicates  the  spot  where  the  'Margaretta'  was  beached,  after  being 
towed  up  the  river  following  her  capture,  and  concealed  from  the  British  by  leafy 
boughs. 

State  1A  runs  through  wide  blueberry  plains  and  rejoins  US  1  at  Machias,  8.5  m. 
MACHIAS  (Ind.:  'bad  little  falls')  (alt.  80,  Machias  Town,  pop.  1853), 
65.1  m.,  seat  of  Washington  County,  lies  along  the  Machias  River;  the 
town  formerly  included  what  is  now  the  town  of  Machiasport  (see  below). 
The  gristmill  in  the  center  of  the  bridge  across  the  river  looks  down  on  the 
narrow  gorge  through  which  the  waters  tumble  and  roar  ceaselessly. 
From  the  bridge  are  seen  the  buildings  of  the  Washington  State  Normal 
School  on  a  high  hill  overlooking  the  town. 

After  the  destruction  of  the  Plymouth  Colony  trading  post  at  Pentagoet 
by  the  French,  the  English  in  1633  here  established  another  post  under 
command  of  Richard  Vines,  in  a  spot  much  closer  to  the  French  head- 
quarters; La  Tour,  French  Governor  of  Acadia,  wiped  it  out  almost  at 
once.  In  1675  Rhodes,  the  pirate,  used  the  site  as  a  base  for  repairs  and 
supplies;  a  few  decades  later  another  pirate,  Samuel  Bellamy,  came  here 
for  the  same  purpose,  and,  liking  the  place  and  deciding  that  it  offered 
him  security,  determined  to  establish  a  permanent  stronghold.  Piracy 
was  rampant  along  the  Atlantic  seaboard  at  this  time,  partly  because  of 
English  and  Spanish  trade  restrictions,  designed  to  force  colonists  to  buy 
from  the  mother  country  alone;  this  created  a  good  market  for  stolen 


TOUR  1 :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  235 

goods  in  the  Colonies.  Privateering  provided  good  training  for  piracy,  as 
Cotton  Mather  warned  in  1704  in  one  of  his  'hanging  sermons,'  and  many 
men  who  started  out  to  prey  on  shipping  for  their  governments  soon  de- 
cided to  keep  the  booty  for  themselves.  Bellamy,  from  all  reports,  devel- 
oped a  Robin  Hood  philosophy  on  the  matter;  when  he  had  captured  a 
ship  he  would  harangue  its  crew,  invite  them  to  join  him,  arguing  that  the 
men  had  as  much  right  to  rob  as  had  the  shipowners,  who  were  merely 
powerful  bandits  who  had  had  laws  made  to  protect  their  operations. 

When  Bellamy  determined  to  settle  on  the  site  of  the  present  Machias,  he 
erected  breastworks  and  a  crude  fort  before  leaving  for  another  expedition 
with  three  objectives  —  recruits,  loot,  and  women.  He  had  left  the  mouth 
of  the  river  and  was  plundering  along  the  Nova  Scotian  banks  when,  by 
mistake,  he  attacked  a  French  naval  vessel.  His  vessel,  the  'Whidaw,' 
was  almost  captured  before  he  managed  to  escape.  Sailing  south,  he  had 
further  bad  luck;  he  captured  a  New  Bedford  whaler,  whose  captain  pre- 
tended to  join  him  and  agreed  to  act  as  a  navigator  through  the  dangerous 
reefs  and  shoals.  The  whaling  captain  did  his  part  for  a  time  and  then 
deliberately  ran  his  ship  aground  on  a  sand  bar  near  Eastham,  Mass.  The 
pirate  ship,  following  the  lead  of  the  whaler,  went  on  the  rocks,  and 
Bellamy  and  most  of  his  crew  drowned. 

In  1763  the  first  permanent  English  colony  was  established  by  settlers 
from  Scarboro  near  Portland. 

The  Machias  River  has  played  an  important  part  in  the  town's  develop- 
ment as  a  commercial  lumber  and  shipbuilding  center.  One  of  the  few  re- 
maining 'long  lumber'  log  drives  in  Maine  takes  place  on  the  Machias 
River  each  spring.  Logs  are  hauled  over  the  snow  to  the  landings,  and 
when  the  ice  goes  out  of  the  river  they  are  shoved  into  the  fast-moving 
water,  which  hurtles  them  downstream.  When  one  of  the  numerous  jams 
occurs,  a  daring  river  driver  walks  out  on  it  to  pry  loose  the  key  log;  if  this 
does  not  succeed  the  jam  is  blasted. 

Burnham  Tavern  (open  Sat.  aft.,  June  1  to  Oct.  1;  small  adm.fee),  High  and 
Free  Sts.,  a  plain  two-story  gambrel-roofed  structure  with  the  lower  sec- 
tion of  the  roof  broken  back  to  a  vertical  wall  with  five  windows,  was 
built  in  1770  by  Joe  Burnham.  Beneath  each  of  the  four  cornerstones  of 
the  building  the  owner  placed  a  box  containing  a  slip  of  paper  inscribed 
with  the  words  'hospitality,'  'cheer,'  'hope,'  and  'courage.'  Over  the 
door  hangs  the  original  sign,  which  reads:  'Drink  for  the  thirsty,  food  for 
the  hungry,  lodging  for  the  weary,  and  good  keeping  for  horses.'  Beneath 
the  roof  the  townspeople  gathered  to  plan  their  movements  against  the 
British  and  to  discuss  the  exciting  events  of  the  day.  Here  Jeremiah 
O'Brien  and  his  comrades  planned  the  capture  of  the  'Margaretta'  (see 
below). 

In  the  O'Brien  Cemetery,  about  0.3  m.  from  the  center  (R),  is  the  Grave  of 
Captain  O'Brien  (see  below).  Just  beyond  the  cemetery  (L)  is  a  marker 
indicating  the  site  of  his  home. 

Also  on  Elm  St.  about  0.5  m.  from  the  center  is  a  small  stream  called 


236  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Foster's  Rubicon]  the  men  of  Machias  met  on  its  banks  in  June,  1775,  to 
discuss  the  demands  that  they  furnish  lumber  to  be  sent  back  to  Boston 
for  the  building  of  barracks  for  the  British  troops.  After  a  long  debate  in 
which  part  of  the  townsmen  advocated  compliance  and  part  resistance, 
Benjamin  Foster,  a  church  leader  as  well  as  a  rebel,  sprang  across  the 
stream,  inviting  those  who  shared  his  views  to  follow  him.  The  rebels 
went  first,  then  those  who  had  been  wavering,  and  finally  those  who  had 
advocated  compliance;  and  the  settlement  as  a  whole  was  committed  to 
the  Revolution. 

At  68  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  local  road. 

Right  on  this  road  is  MACHIASPORT  (alt.  80,  Machiasport  Town,  pop.  825),  4 
m.,  a  typical  Maine  coast  village  where  lumber  shipping  is  now  the  chief  activity. 

When  news  of  the  battle  of  Lexington  reached  this  part  of  Maine  in  early  May, 
1775,  Ichabod  Jones,  who  had  left  Massachusetts  because  of  the  increasing  dis- 
turbance to  business  caused  in  part  by  the  Boston  Port  Bill,  hastily  left  for  Boston 
to  secure  his  personal  property.  The  Boston  Port  commander,  however,  refused  to 
allow  him  to  take  his  boat  out  of  the  harbor  except  to  return  to  Maine  for  lumber 
to  be  used  in  building  barracks  for  the  increasing  number  of  British  soldiers.  The 
armed  schooner  'Margaretta'  was  sent  along  as  a  convoy  to  enforce  the  order. 
Meanwhile,  public  opinion  in  Machias  had  been  inflamed  and  Captain  Moore  of 
the  'Margaretta'  found  a  Liberty  Pole  in  the  little  frontier  coast  town  and  citizens 
incensed  at  the  idea  of  providing  supplies  for  armies  to  be  used  against  them.  Led 
by  Benjamin  Foster  and  the  fiery  Irishman,  Jeremiah  O'Brien,  the  local  citizens 
commandeered  two  boats,  one  of  which,  however,  became  stranded,  and  on  June 
12,  1775,  closed  in  on  the  'Margaretta';  in  the  fight  that  followed  the  British 
officer  was  mortally  wounded  and  his  boat  captured.  The  following  month  the 
Machias  men  captured  a  British  schooner  from  Nova  Scotia.  The  British  sent  Sir 
George  Collier  with  the  '  Ranger'  and  three  other  boats  to  punish  the  rebels;  Collier 
routed  the  local  force  from  the  breastworks  they  had  hastily  thrown  up  along  the 
river  and  burned  several  buildings  before  his  fleet  moved  on.  The  capture  of  the 
'Margaretta'  has  been  called  the  'first  naval  battle  of  the  Revolution';  the  battle 
itself  was  not  important,  but  it  provided  the  Revolutionary  leaders  in  Philadelphia 
with  a  talking  point  in  urging  the  establishment  of  a  navy. 

Machiasport  was  the  terminus  of  the  narrow-gauge  Machias-Whitneyville  R.R., 
built  in  1841  to  carry  lumber  from  Whitneyville  to  Machiasport  for  shipping,  and 
operated  for  50  years  by  the  Sullivan  family  of  Whitneyville.  One  of  the  locomotives 
used  on  this  railroad  is  now  at  the  Crosby  Laboratory,  University  of  Maine, 
Orono. 

From  Wright's  Lookout,  a  bold  rock  at  the  top  of  Corn  Hill,  a  few  hundred  yards 
back  from  the  main  street,  is  a  splendid  view  of  the  Machias  headlands  and  the 
western  end  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy. 

At  the  southern  end  of  the  village,  on  the  western  bank  of  the  Machias  River,  is  the 
State  reservation  holding  the  Earthworks  of  Fort  Machias,  or  Fort  O'Brien  as  it  is 
locally  called  because  it  was  erected  in  part  through  the  activities  of  the  O'Briens. 
After  the  Collier  raid,  Washington  ordered  a  regiment  of  militia  recruited  and  sent 
to  protect  the  settlement.  In  1781,  Fort  Machias  was  made  part  of  the  national 
defense.  The  British,  however,  did  not  return  to  the  little  town  until  1814,  when 
they  took  the  fort  and  burned  the  barracks.  The  place  was  again  fortified  in  1863, 
during  the  Civil  War,  but  was  not  attacked. 

At  Clark's  Point,  7  m.  (L),  are  the  so-called  Picture  Rocks.  Figures  somewhat 
resembling  men,  animals,  and  landscapes  can  be  seen  on  a  slanting  ledge  below  the 
high-water  mark.  Some  authorities  who  have  examined  the  formations  believe 
they  are  geologic,  others  that  they  are  hieroglyphics. 

EAST  MACHIAS  (alt.  60,  East  Machias  Town,  pop.  1253),  69.6  m.,  is 


TOUR  1 :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  237 

divided  by  the  East  Machias  River,  the  residential  area  and  the  business 
districts  being  on  opposite  sides  of  the  stream. 

On  top  of  a  hill  across  the  river  (R)  is  Washington  Academy.  A  general 
interest  in  having  a  local  school  was  shown  as  early  as  1790-91,  and  a 
petition  for  help  from  the  Government  in  the  undertaking  was  trans- 
mitted to  the  General  Court  of  Massachusetts  in  that  year.  The  petition 
was  granted,  and  Township  u,  since  known  as  Cutler,  was  given  as  an 
endowment  for  an  academy,  but  it  was  not  until  September,  1823,  that 
Washington  Academy  was  opened. 

In  the  Library  (R),  a  brick  building  with  two  old  millstones  from  an  early 
gristmill  set  strikingly  in  the  front  wall,  one  on  either  side  of  the  entrance, 
is  a  canvas  showing  a  panorama  of  the  community  in  the  prosperous 
lumbering  and  shipbuilding  days. 

At  73  m.  (L)  is  the  graveled  entrance  to  the  Summer  Surveying  School  of 
the  Massachusetts  Institute  of  Technology,  on  the  shore  of  Gardner 
Lake;  the  neighborhood  provides  a  variety  of  surveying  problems. 
Indian  Lake  (fishing  and  boating  facilities) ,  76.6  m.  (L),  lies  along  the  road, 
the  blue  of  its  waters  enhanced  by  the  dark  green  foliage  of  the  dense 
forest  surrounding  it. 

WHITING  (alt.  60,  Whiting  Town,  pop.  327),  82.2  m.,  a  village  formerly 
called  Orangetown,  in  an  area  where  extensive  lumbering  operations  are 
still  carried  on,  is  recognized  by  the  large  piles  of  lumber  along  the  road 
near  its  center.  The  route  passes  a  lumber  mill  on  the  Orange  River, 
which  has  been  dammed  at  this  point  to  provide  water-power. 

In  this  area  are  long  stretches  of  forests,  broken  occasionally  by  small 
scrubby  farms.  In  spite  of  the  extensive  lumbering  operations  that  have 
been  carried  on  in  what  is  now  the  State  of  Maine,  the  forests  have  not 
been  seriously  depleted.  The  country  is  full  of  game.  Many  rabbits  are 
caught  here  and  shipped  to  other  parts  of  Maine,  as  well  as  to  other  States, 
for  stocking  game  preserves. 

At  the  rear  of  a  small  white  church  (L)  is  the  Grave  of  Colonel  John  Crane, 
the  first  white  settler.  He  was  a  member  of  the  Boston  Tea  Party,  and 
during  the  Revolution  commanded  one  of  the  batteries  whose  fire  diverted 
the  attention  of  the  British  from  the  American  forces  in  their  capture  of 
Dorchester  Heights  in  March,  1776. 

At  Whiting  is  the  junction  with  State  189  (see  Tour  1M). 

DENNYSVILLE  (alt.  30,  Dennysville  Town,  pop.  443),  91.5  m.,  took  its 
name  from  Dennys  River  which  was  named  for  an  Indian  chief  whose 
hunting  grounds  were  in  this  region.  Swift  Dennys  River,  where  there  is 
excellent  fishing  (see  Sports  and  Recreation:  Fishing),  parallels  the  main 
street  over  which  tall  trees  form  an  arch. 

In  1786  the  township  land  was  granted  to  General  Benjamin  Lincoln  of 
Hingham,  Mass.,  who,  at  the  surrender  of  York  town,  was  selected  to  con- 
duct the  British  to  the  spot  where  their  arms  were  deposited. 

There  is  a  fine  Salmon-fishing  Pool  near  the  center  of  the  village. 


238  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

The  Lincoln  Home  (private),  0.5  mile  north  of  the  center  and  facing  the 
river,  was  erected  in  1787  by  artisans  from  Hingham,  Mass.,  under  the 
direction  of  General  Lincoln's  son,  Theodore.  It  is  a  yellow,  two-story 
structure.  Theodore,  who  occupied  the  house,  had  large  lumber  interests 
and  employed  many  Indians  of  the  district.  James  Audubon,  the  artist 
and  naturalist,  was  a  friend  of  Theodore's  son,  Thomas,  who  assisted 
Audubon  in  making  arrangements  for  an  expedition  to  Labrador  in  1833. 
Members  of  Lincoln's  family  still  own  and  occupy  the  house,  which  con- 
tains many  of  the  early  furnishings,  also  old  books  and  documents. 

In  the  store  of  I.  K.  Kilby  (R)  in  the  village  is  a  Collection  of  Indian  Relics 
(open),  found  in  the  neighborhood. 

WEST  PEMBROKE  (alt.  50,  Pembroke  Town),  96.7  m.,  which  seems 
part  of  Pembroke  village,  rather  than  a  separate  community,  has  a 
number  of  sturdy  old  homes.  H.  Styles  Bridges,  Governor  of  New  Hamp- 
shire (1935-36)  and  U.S.  Senator  (1937-  ),  was  born  here  on  Septem- 
ber 9,  1896. 

Left  from  West  Pembroke  on  State  214,  an  improved  gravel  road,  is  Meddybemps 
Lake,  10  m.,  with  excellent  fishing  (boats  and  canoes  for  hire)  and  a  good  bathing 
beach. 

This  is  one  of  the  many  hunting  regions  where  the  illegal  practice  of  'deer  jacking,' 
less  frequent  today,  was  popular.  The  bright  light  of  a  hooded  lantern  or  of  a 
flashlight  fascinates  the  fleet-footed  animal,  making  him  a  target  for  the  hunts- 
man's bullet.  When  shot,  the  deer  seldom  drops  immediately,  but  runs  sometimes 
for  hours,  the  hunter  in  hot  pursuit.  This  phase,  known  as  '  deer  running/  develops 
fleet  runners,  particularly  in  deer-jacking  expeditions  when  the  law  is  pursuing  the 
hunters  as  swiftly  as  the  hunters  are  pursuing  the  deer. 

A  story  is  told  of  a  Washington  County  stripling  who,  left  unwarned  on  sentry  duty 
at  Cedar  Creek,  Va.,  when  a  retreat  was  ordered,  found  himself  alone  facing  the 
advancing  enemy.  He  made  his  solitary  retreat  from  Cedar  Creek  with  the  speed  he 
had  acquired  in  deer  running  in  the  Meddybemps  region.  He  is  said  to  have  re- 
ported at  Harpers  Ferry,  W.  Va.,  19  miles  from  his  post,  in  advance  of  the  dispatch 
bearer,  who  was  on  horseback. 

PEMBROKE  (alt.  80,  Pembroke  Town,  pop.  965),  97.7  m.,  is  a  village  of 
pleasant  homes  along  the  bank  of  the  Pennamaquan  River.  While  the 
principal  industries  are  now  the  packing  of  blueberries  and  sardines,  the 
substantial,  well-built  houses  recall  the  prosperity  of  the  wooden-hull  era, 
when  extensive  shipbuilding  activities  were  carried  on  in  the  area. 

The  large,  square,  stone  building  of  the  Old  Iron  Works  (R),  resembles 
an  old  fort.  The  plant  was  established  in  1828  with  machinery  brought 
from  Wales.  Much  of  the  ore  used  came  from  bogs  in  the  vicinity. 

PERRY  (alt.  40,  Perry  Town,  pop.  992),  103.6  m.,  lies  on  a  double  bend 
of  US  1  where  it  crosses  Boyden  Stream.  The  houses  are  few  and  scattered. 

At  Perry  is  the  junction  with  State  190  (see  Tour  IN). 
At  105.5  m.  is  a  granite  boulder  (L)  placed  by  the  National  Geographic 
Society  to  mark  the  Forty-fifth  Parallel  of  Latitude,  which  is  exactly  mid- 
way between  the  Equator  and  the  North  Pole. 

ROBBINSTON  (alt.  60,  Robbinston  Town,  pop.  582),  111.5  m.,  is  a 
village  whose  main  street  parallels  the  St.  Croix  River  (ferry  service  to  St. 


TOUR  1 :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  239 

Andrews,  N.B.).  The  smokestack  of  a  sardine-canning  factory  that 
burned  down  sometime  in  the  past  is  a  landmark  here.  Fishing  is  the 
principal  industry  of  the  town,  supplemented  by  sardine  canning.  In  the 
spring  when  the  herring  are  running,  the  fish  weirs  offshore  can  be  seen 
from  the  road. 

RED  BEACH  (alt.  90,  Ward  9,  City  of  Calais),  115  m.,  takes  its  name 
from  the  color  of  the  granite  outcrop  along  the  shore.  The  village  lies 
along  the  main  highway  in  a  pleasant  wooded  area  from  which  the  wide 
island-dotted  St.  Croix  is  visible. 

Opposite  Red  Beach,  in  the  St.  Croix  River,  is  Docket  Island  (alt.  40),  which  is 
reached  by  rowboat. 

In  1603,  Pierre  du  Guast,  the  Sieur  de  Monts,  received  the  trading  concession  for 
Acadia,  which,  in  the  grand  manner  of  the  times,  was  denned  as  a  territory  extend- 
ing from  Cape  Breton  Island  to  a  point  well  below  the  present  New  York  City.  In 
the  following  spring  he  set  sail  with  his  lieutenant,  Samuel  de  Champlain,  and 
fourscore  colonists,  including  a  Huguenot  minister  and  a  Catholic  priest,  landing 
on  June  26,  1604,  on  this  island,  which  he  called  St.  Croix,  where  he  expected  to 
establish  a  trading  post  and  settlement.  So  sketchy  was  knowledge  of  the  New 
World  at  the  time  that  the  settlers  brought  with  them  part  of  the  timber  used  in  the 
erection  of  their  buildings.  Before  winter  arrived,  the  island  held  a  storehouse, 
dining  hall,  kitchen,  barracks,  and  a  blacksmith  shop,  and  carefully  laid  out  gar- 
dens. An  unusually  severe  winter  and  scurvy  wrought  such  discouragement  that 
in  the  spring  of  1605  de  Monts  and  Champlain  sailed  off  south  to  find  a  more  suit- 
able place  for  the  colony;  in  August,  however,  they  decided  to  move  it  to  the  spot 
that  is  now  Annapolis  Royal,  in  Nova  Scotia.  Dochet  Island  was  not  entirely 
abandoned;  for  the  French  used  it  for  a  garrison  at  intervals  for  some  years. 

This  early  settlement  played  an  important  part  in  the  adjustment  of  the  boundary 
question  at  the  end  of  the  Revolutionary  War;  both  the  United  States  and  Great 
Britain  acknowledged  the  River  St.  Croix  as  the  point  of  departure  in  drawing  the 
line,  but  Britain  disputed  the  American  claim  on  what  river  bore  this  name.  Dis- 
covery of  Champlain's  map  and  the  subsequent  examination  of  the  ruins  of  the 
early  settlement  decided  the  matter;  had  the  British  won  their  point,  eastern 
Maine  would  probably  now  be  Canadian  territory. 

At  122.2  m.  is  the  Saint  Croix  Golf  Club  (open  to  visitors),  on  the  bank  of 
the  river. 

CALAIS  (pron.  Kal'is)  (alt.  82,  pop.  5470),  123.9  m.,  the  'international 
city'  of  Maine,  is  the  only  city  in  the  State  on  the  Canadian  border.  It  is  a 
port  of  entry  and  many  of  its  citizens  came  from  the  Canadian  Provinces. 
The  city  spreads  out  on  a  hilly  terrain  along  the  western  bank  of  the  St. 
Croix  River,  directly  opposite  St.  Stephen,  N.B.  The  mile-long  main 
street,  a  wide  thoroughfare  lined  with  fine  old  elm  trees,  runs  from  the  end 
of  the  International  Bridge  to  the  St.  Croix  Country  Club  at  the  southern 
end  of  the  city.  The  business  district  is  in  the  northern  end  of  the  city, 
close  to  the  river;  from  the  bridge  are  visible  the  docks  that  once  played  an 
important  part  in  the  city's  industrial  life.  Encircling  the  business  district 
are  quiet  streets  with  attractive  houses  surrounded  by  trees,  broad  lawns, 
and  well-trimmed  shrubbery.  Handsome  churches  and  modern  schools 
add  to  the  air  of  prosperity.  The  municipal  affairs  of  Calais  and  St. 
Stephen  are  allied  to  the  extent  that  the  fire  engines  of  the  two  com- 
munities clang  back  and  forth  across  the  International  Bridge  to  answer 
alarms  in  what  to  each  community  is  technically  a  foreign  land.  The 


240  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Calais  water  supply  comes  from  St.  Stephen,  being  piped  across  the  river. 
United  States  and  Canadian  currencies  are  accepted  in  both  cities. 

The  first  settlers,  who  arrived  in  1779,  were  attracted  to  Calais  by  the 
wealth  of  timber,  the  fertile  soil,  and  the  abundance  of  fish  and  game. 

Calais  early  became  an  important  lumbering  center.  The  launching  in 
1801  of  the  'Liberty,'  the  first  vessel  built  in  the  community,  marked  the 
beginning  of  a  profitable  industry  that  lasted  till  the  end  of  the  '  era  of  tall 
ships.'  In  1809,  the  Massachusetts  Legislature  named  the  settlement  for 
the  French  port  of  Calais,  as  a  compliment  to  France  because  of  the  aid 
rendered  to  the  struggling  Colonies  during  the  Revolution.  After  1820  the 
primitive  backwoods  settlement  began  to  expand  rapidly.  Roads  and 
bridges  were  built;  churches  and  homes  sprang  up  along  the  highways. 
In  1850,  with  a  population  of  4749,  it  was  incorporated  as  a  city. 

In  1935,  when  the  'Normandie'  made  its  maiden  trip  to  America,  the 
French  city  of  Calais  sent  to  the  American  Calais  a  hand-carved  mahog- 
any chest  containing  soil  from  its  ancient  cemeteries,  four  volumes  of 
Calais  history,  and  a  dozen  pieces  of  lace.  In  1936  the  American  city 
shipped  to  France  a  tablet  of  red  granite,  taken  from  Dochet  Island. 

The  Mason  House  (private),  at  the  point  (R)  where  Main  St.  turns  toward 
the  customhouse,  was  the  home  of  Noah  Smith,  Jr.  (1800-68).  Smith, 
paternal  grandfather  of  the  writer,  Kate  Douglas  Wiggin,  is  said  to  have 
been  one  of  the  last  people  who  had  official  business  with  President 
Lincoln  before  his  assassination;  at  that  time  he  received  the  President's 
signature  to  a  pardon  granted  to  a  young  Calais  soldier  who  had  been 
convicted  of  treason. 

Sec.  e.  CALAIS  to  FORT  KENT,  210.4  m. 

North  of  Calais,  US  1  passes  through  a  wooded  area  where  the  occasional 
villages  have  been  chopped  out  of  the  wilderness;  part  of  the  country  is  so 
thinly  populated  that  it  belongs  to  the  so-called  wild  lands,  township-size 
units  having  no  local  government.  Sportsmen  and  hunters  who  enter 
these  areas  should  hire  guides  because  only  expert  woodsmen  can  find 
their  way  about.  The  upper  two-thirds  of  the  route  passes  through  the 
great  potato-growing  section  of  Aroostook  County,  where  in  summer  the 
fields  are  undulating  seas  of  green,  broken  in  July  by  white  and  purple 
blossoms. 

Aroostook  County  was  involved  in  the  long  dispute  between  England  and 
the  United  States  over  the  boundary  question,  which  was  finally  settled 
by  the  Webster- Ashburton  Treaty  of  1842.  Before  this  time  a  series  of 
border  disputes  and  clashes  had  taken  place,  the  best-known  of  which  was 
the  'Aroostook  War'  of  1830-40,  in  which  Maine  men  went  north  to  expel 
Canadian  lumbermen  who,  the  '  Mainiacs '  believed,  were  cutting  lumber 
in  United  States  territory.  Many  of  the  men  who  took  part  in  this  ex- 
pedition went  back  to  settle  the  border  county;  however,  the  development 
of  the  large  area  was  very  much  hampered  by  lack  of  transportation 
facilities  until  the  Bangor  and  Aroostook  R.R.  was  completed;  produce  of 


TOUR  1  :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  241 

the  district  had  to  be  taken  over  to  the  St.  John  River  in  New  Brunswick, 
or  to  a  Canadian  railroad,  passing  in  a  roundabout  way  through  foreign 
territory  before  it  reached  the  home  markets.  Hie  fine  was  extended  to 
Fort  Kent  in  1902. 

North  of  Van  Buren,  US  1  follows  the  northern  boundary  of  Maine  beside 
the  St.  John  River  from  which  wide  imHnlaiing  meadows  spread  to  the 
edge  of  woodlands.  In  this  area  90  per  cent  of  the  population  is  of  French 
extraction,  many  of  the  people  being  descendants  of  the  Acadians  who 
were  expelled  from  Canada  during  the  French  and  Indian  War,  an  event 
that  was  the  basis  of  Longfellow's  'Evangelme.9  These  Roman  Catholics 
stin  follow  many  of  the  customs  brought  by  their  ancestors  from  the 
coast  of  Brittany. 

CALAIS,  0  m.  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  <Q. 

MILLTOWN  (alt.  85,  Ward  i  of  Calais),  1-5  m.,  is,  as  its  name  suggests,  a 
mffl  settlement  on  the  banks  of  the  St.  Croix  (R),  many  of  the  residents 
being  employed  in  the  cotton  mills  across  the  river.  The  monotony  of  the 
drab  buildings  here  is  relieved  by  the  beauty  of  the  swift  St.  Croix  rapids. 
Magurrewock  Mountain  (L)  rises  precipitously  almost  from  the  edge  of  the 
road. 

At  4.6  m  .  is  the  junction  with  a  local  road. 

Right  on  this  road  is  BARIXG  (alt.  100,  Baring  Town,  pop.  204),  1  •«..  an  agricul- 

tural cngnmiinity  namn^  jn  IMMMIT  of  AV*ra«ffrf  Baring,  Lord  AshbuitOD,  England's 

representative  in  the  Webster-Ashborton  Treaty  negotiations  of  1842  (see  afar). 
Baring  was  the  son-in-law  of  WHfiani  Bingbam  (see  sec.  c). 

At  6.9  m.  (L)  is  a  junction  with  State  9  (see  Tour  5). 
WOODLAND  (alt.  130,  Bafleyvffle  Town,  pop.  2017),  10.1  m  .,  visible  from 
US  1,  is  several  hundred  yards  east  of  the  highway  on  the  banks  of  the  St. 
Croix  River.  The  community  sprang  into  being  in  1005  with  the  estab- 
lishment of  a  paper  mill  whose  huge  stack  and  conveyor  look  down  on  a 
neat  modern  village.  Large  piles  of  pulpwood  fill  the  river  and  line  the 
shore  n^»r  thg  raflroad  tracks. 


Small  quantities  of  gold  have  been  found  in  Wapsaconhagan  Stream  at  the 
south  end  of  the  village. 

PRINCETON  (alt.  210,  Princeton  Town,  pop.  984),  19.6  m.,  a  small  ehn- 
shaded  village  (guides  and  equipment  for  hunting  and  fishing),  lies  at  the 
southeast  end  of  Lesecys  Lake,  a  headwater  of  the  St.  Croix  River.  The 
dear  waters  of  the  lake  are  excellent  for  both  swimming  and  fishing  and 
the  near-by  woods  abound  with  game  for  the  hunter.  Princeton  is  the 
starting  point  of  the  Grand  Lake-Machias  Waters  Canoe  Trip  (see 
Sports  and  Recreation:  Canoeing). 


6  ».,  on  the  shores  of  Big  Lake  (balking  batch;  cottages  am*  camps  far  rod). 
US  1  now  crosses  a  steel  bridge  to  enter  the  Unorganised  Township  of 
Indiantom,  a  sparsely  populated  area,  inhabited  in  part  by  the  Passama- 
qnoddy  Indians.  Granted  to  them  by  treaty  in  1796,  this  section  has 
always  been  fh<yr  favorite  hunting  ground.  Many  fierce  engagements 


242  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

between  the  Passamaquoddies  and  roving  bands  of  Mohawks  once  took 

place  here. 

The  road  follows  Big  Lake  shore  about  a  mile. 

At  21.9  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  2  m.,  then  sharp  left  on  another  dirt  road,  to  an  Indian  Reser- 
vation (open),  4m.,  at  Peter  Dana's  Point  on  Big  Lake.  Many  new  houses  have 
been  built  here  for  the  Passamaquoddies,  while  near-by  is  a  convent  and  chapel. 
These  Indians  hunt,  fish,  act  as  guides  for  the  region,  and  make  baskets  for  sale  to 
visitors. 
Near  the  reservation  is  a  State  Fish  Hatchery  (open). 

Just  beyond  (R)  the  junction  are  six  Log  Cabins  used  by  the  University 
of  Maine  Forestry  Department  as  a  field  work  base  for  forestry  students. 

WAITE  (alt.  330,  Waite  Town,  pop.  165),  28.9  m. 

Left  from  Waite  on  a  local  road  is  West  Musquash  Lake,  6  m.,  with  sporting  camps 
along  its  shores.  The  occasional  splash  of  fish  and  the  myriad  symphonies  of  the 
deep  woods  break  the  stillness  of  this  delightful  spot. 

At  29.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  narrow  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road,  which  passes  through  thick  woods,  is  Tomah  Stream,  5m.,  a 
ribbon  of  glistening  waters  flowing  between  deeply  wooded  banks,  and  named  in 
honor  of  an  Indian  chief  who  aided  the  settlers  of  Machias  during  the  Revolution. 

TOPSFIELD  (alt.  495,  Topsfield  Town,  pop.  224),  35.1  m.,  an  agricul- 
tural village,  is  in  fine  hunting  country,  and  it  is  not  unusual  to  see  deer 
grazing  in  apple  orchards  not  far  from  the  road.  The  township  is  rich  in 
cultivated  fields,  neat  farms,  and  stretches  of  woodland  dotted  with  lakes 
where  hunting  and  fishing  lure  sportsmen  from  many  distant  points.  The 
fire  lookout  on  Musquash  Mountain  (L)  is  plainly  visible. 

Left  from  Topsfield  on  State  16  to  Musquash  Lake,  4m.,&  fine  fishing  ground. 
BROOKTON  (alt.  420,  Brookton  Town,  pop.  240),  43.4  m.,  is  a  small 
village  at  a  'four  corners.'  The  shores  of  Jackson  Brook  Lake  (cottages  for 
hire),  where  there  is  excellent  fishing,  are  only  a  stone's  throw  right. 

1.  Right  from  Brookton  on  a  local  road  to  FOREST  STATION  (alt.  410,  Unorgan- 
ized Township  of  Forest  City),  3  m.,  a  stopping  place  on  the  Maine  Central  Railroad. 

FOREST  CITY  (alt.  444,  Unorganized  Township  of  Forest  City,  pop.  70),  12  m. 
Sporting  camps  have  replaced  extensive  lumbering  operations  in  this  forest  settle- 
ment on  the  shore  of  East  Grand  Lake. 

2.  Left  from  Brookton,  on  a  dirt  road,  to  Baskahegan  Lake,  1.5  m.,  one  of  the  larg- 
est bodies  of  water  in  this  section.  Surrounded  by  deep  woods  and  canopied  by  the 
blue  bowl  of  the  sky,  this  wide  sheet  of  water  is  ideal  for  the  angler  who  wishes 
beautiful  scenery  combined  with  the  prospect  of  a  well-filled  creel. 

EATON  (alt.  407,  Danforth  Town),  49.8  m.,  is  a  little  woods  hamlet  that 
was  once  engaged  in  lumbering. 

DANFORTH  (alt.  387,  Danforth  Town,  pop.  1462),  55.1  m.,  in  the 
Baskahegan  River  valley,  is  the  scene  of  much  activity  in  spring  and 
summer,  when  its  two  lumbering  mills  are  in  operation.  Huge  logs  line  the 
banks  and  float  on  the  surface  of  the  river.  The  sharp  tang  of  fresh-cut 
wood  fills  the  air  as  the  saws  buzz  and  whine  and  a  great  mound  of  yellow 
sawdust  rises  like  a  grotesque  beehive  on  the  river  bank  beside  the  spool 
mill. 


TOUR  1 :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  243 

WESTON  (alt.  720,  Weston  Town,  pop.  323),  60  m.,  lies  in  a  setting  of 
great  natural  beauty.  From  every  point  on  the  highway  which  runs  along 
the  side  of  a  hill  and  then  climbs  abruptly  to  the  summit,  the  view  of  East 
Grand  Lake  (R)  is  magnificent.  Apple  orchards,  pasture  land,  wood  lots, 
and  hay  fields  slope  from  the  homes  that  face  the  road,  to  the  woods- 
fringed  shores  of  the  body  of  water.  In  the  distance  a  chain  of  smaller 
lakes  makes  an  intricate  design  in  the  dense  forests  that  stretch  to  the 
green-clad  Canadian  hills. 

ORIENT  (alt.  460,  Orient  Town,  pop.  161),  66.2  m.,  a  tiny  community  in 
the  woods,  owes  its  existence  in  great  part  to  the  fine  hunting  and  fishing 
in  the  vicinity. 

Right  from  Orient  on  a  local  road  to  Sunset  Park,  3  w.,  on  the  north  end  of  East 
Grand  Lake  (boats  for  hire),  where  there  is  a  bathing  beach. 

NORTH  AMITY  (alt.  580,  Amity  Town,  pop.  324),  74.2  m.,  stretches  out 
along  the  main  highway  on  a  high  ridge  of  land,  from  the  south  end  of 
which  there  is  an  excellent  view  of  Mt.  Katahdin. 

GARY  (alt.  435,  Gary  Plantation,  pop.  241),  78  m.,  is  completely  sur- 
rounded by  dense  woods. 

HODGDON  (alt.  470,  Hodgdon  Town,  pop.  1054),  82.5  m.,  is  at  the  foot 
of  Westford  Hill  (R),  a  tree-crowned  elevation  within  easy  walking 
distance  of  the  main  highway.  Here  the  checkered  pattern  of  Aroostook 
farmland  meets  the  eye,  the  farmstead  showing  as  on  a  picture  map,  with 
Mt.  Katahdin's  bold  peak  on  the  skyline  (L). 

HOULTON  (alt.  340,  Houlton  Town,  pop.  6865)  (see  HOULTON), 
88.1  m.,  is  at  a  junction  with  US  2  (see  Tour  4). 

At  94.6  m.  is  a  junction  with  Willey  Road. 

Left  on  the  Willey  Road  to  two  Circular  Depressions  (L),  1  m.,  which  are  thought 
to  be  '  sink  holes '  or  the  beds  of  lakes  that  have  long  since  dried  up. 

At  2  m.  there  is  fine  fishing  and  swimming  at  Carry  Lake,  which  is  surrounded  by  a 
dense  growth  of  pine  and  spruce  that  fills  the  air  with  a  clean  sharp  scent. 

LITTLETON  (alt.  440,  Littleton  Town,  pop.  1035),  95.5  m.,  lies  on  a 
plain,  its  only  distinctive  feature  being  the  long  rows  of  potato  sheds  along 
the  railroad  tracks  on  the  northern  edge  of  the  village. 

In  1800,  when  the  territory  was  still  part  of  the  State  of  Massachusetts, 
the  southern  half  of  this  town,  then  unsettled,  was  granted  to  Williams 
College,  and  in  1801  the  great  forest-covered  northern  half  was  given  to 
Framingham  (Mass.)  Academy.  Settlements  were  founded  here  shortly 
after  these  dates,  but  the  town  was  not  incorporated  until  1856. 
During  the  latter  part  of  the  iQth  century  camp  meetings,  lasting  several 
days,  played  an  important  part  in  the  social  life  of  such  Aroostook  com- 
munities as  Littleton.  They  were  held  in  pine  groves  or  near  lake  shores, 
usually  in  August  after  the  hay  was  in,  people  coming  from  long  distances 
and  bringing  their  own  food  and  bedding.  The  living  quarters  were  either 
rough  bunkhouses  or  temporary  shacks.  Each  camp  ground  had  a  taber- 
nacle, often  merely  a  long  roof  over  ground  covered  with  fresh  sawdust;  in 


244  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

front  of  the  rows  of  pine  benches  was  a  platform  holding  the  speaker's 
table  or  lectern,  and  the  little  organ  with  foot-operated  bellows  that 
>upplied  the  music.  During  the  meetings,  held  in  the  mornings,  after- 
noons, and  evenings,  emotional  fervor  often  reached  a  high  pitch;  but 
between  times  horse  trading  and  the  swapping  of  land,  farm  implements, 
patterns,  and  gossip,  were  carried  on  with  zeal.  Many  Aroostook  court- 
ings  began  and  were  completed  during  these  gatherings.  Camp  meetings 
are  still  held  but  the  radio  and  automobiles  have  lessened  the  social  need 
of  them. 

Visible  from  the  highway  (L)  is  a  group  of  eskers,  or  '  horsebacks '  as  they 
are  called  locally,  whose  long  ridges  are  remnants  of  the  vast  sheets  of  ice 
that  covered  this  part  of  Maine  during  the  glacial  period. 

MONTICELLO  (alt.  415,  Monticello  Town,  pop.  1467),  100.7  m.,  settled 
in  1830,  was  incorporated  in  1846.  A  small  river  divides  the  one-street 
village,  which  spreads  over  two  hilltops. 

Conroy  and  Howard  Lakes,  on  the  Wadleigh  Road,  are  good  fishing  waters, 
and  the  surrounding  woods  afford  excellent  hunting. 

BRIDGEWATER  (alt.  415,  Bridgewater  Town,  pop.  1235),  108.6  m., 
with  its  neat,  well-built  homes  along  the  main  highway,  is  the  principal 
settlement  of  this  heavily  wooded  township.  Near  the  village  is  Portland 
Lake,  excellent  for  swimming  and  camping;  Whitney  Brook  offers  good 
trout  fishing. 

BLAINE  (alt.  410,  Blaine  Town,  pop.  1061),  114.3  m.,  is  a  small  farming 
village.  Left  is  the  old  Valley  House  (private),  built  in  1851  and  known  as 
a  'good  bedded'  hostelry  in  the  days  when  a  good  bed  was  the  most 
desired  haven  at  the  end  of  a  day  spent  in  a  stagecoach  bumping  over  the 
rough  dirt  road  between  Presque  Isle  and  Houlton. 

MARS  HILL  (alt.  710,  Mars  Hill  Town,  pop.  1837),  115  m.,  takes  its 
name  from  near-by  Mars  Hill  (alt.  1660),  a  notable  eminence  in  the  low 
rolling  country  here.  This  hill  entered  into  the  hotly  contested  boundary 
dispute  when  Great  Britain  contended  that  this  peak  was  '  the  highlands 
which  divide  those  rivers  that  empty  themselves  into  the  river  St.  Law- 
rence, from  those  that  fall  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean,'  named  in  Treaty  of 
1782;  the  United  States  maintained  that  the  highlands  were  much  farther 
north  and  nearer  the  St.  Lawrence  River. 

Right  from  the  village  on  a  short  trail  to  the  top  of  the  mountain,  from  which  there 
is  an  excellent  view  of  the  St.  John  Valley. 

EASTON  (alt.  580,  Easton  Town,  pop.  1505),  126.2  m.,  is  a  smaU  village 
in  a  pleasant  farm  country. 

PRESQUE  ISLE  (alt.  450,  Presque  Isle  Town,  pop.  6965),  133.2  m.,  in 
the  valley  of  the  Aroostook  River  and  surrounded  by  some  of  the  most 
fertile  land  in  Aroostook  County,  is  a  bustling  center  of  trade  with  an  up- 
to-date  appearance. 

The  first  explorers  of  this  region  came  down  the  Arnold  Trail  from  Canada 
to  the  Kennebec  River,  then  overland;  the  first  permanent  settlers  arrived 


TOUR  1 :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  245 

at  Presque  Isle  in  1820,  but  there  were  only  732  people  in  the  township  in 
1860,  the  year  after  it  was  incorporated.  Stories  of  pine  trees  so  tall  that 
4  the  clouds  were  torn  as  they  passed  over  them,'  and  of  land  rich  in  game, 
told  by  those  returning  from  this  northern  area,  in  time  tempted  other 
adventurous  souls  to  try  their  fortunes  here. 

Like  the  neighboring  townships  of  Caribou,  Fort  Fairfield,  and  Mars 
Hill,  Presque  Isle  plants  more  potatoes  than  any  other  crop.  In  addition, 
however,  to  the  10,000  acres  of  potatoes,  the  farmers  of  the  town  sow 
4500  acres  of  oats  and  cut  about  7000  tons  of  hay  annually. 

One  of  the  principal  industries  of  Presque  Isle  is  the  manufacture  of  potato 
starch.  The  improvement  in  the  quality  of  the  potatoes  of  the  district  has 
meant  that  fewer  potatoes  are  used  in  the  production  of  starch,  but  the 
mills  still  turn  out  thousands  of  pounds  of  this  commodity  each  year. 

The  Presque  Isle  Fairgrounds,  outer  State  St.,  are  the  scene  of  the  annual 
Northern  Maine  Fair  in  September,  providing  a  spirited  carnival  and 
holiday  for  people  from  all  over  'the  Aroostook.'  The  primary  object  of 
the  fair  is  to  promote  agriculture  in  all  its  branches.  There  are  also  ex- 
hibits of  handicrafts  as  well  as  the  usual  side  shows,  music,  fireworks,  and 
dancing.  The  major  event,  however,  is  horse  racing.  Enthusiasm  anc' 
betting  run  high.  Aroostook  men  are  particularly  interested  in  pacing  and 
trotting;  native-born  sons  are  the  drivers  in  many  instances  and  their  skill 
in  the  'racing  start,'  a  complicated  and  often  long-drawn-out  affair, 
evokes  loud  cheers  or  angry  comment  from  the  partisans  in  the  grand- 
stand. The  light  sulkies  used  in  this  type  of  racing  occasionally  lock 
wheels  with  resultant  spills  that  add  to  the  excitement. 

Close  to  the  hearts  of  the  people  of  northern  Aroostook  is  the  name  and 
memory  of  John  R.  Braden,  one  of  the  most  famous  pacers  that  ever  ap- 
peared on  Maine  tracks.  A  Granite  Monument,  opposite  the  grandstand, 
tells  the  story  of  this  great  horse's  record. 

During  the  first  week  in  March  an  annual  Winter  Carnival,  sponsored  by 
the  Abnaki  Club,  is  held  with  a  lively  program  of  sporting  and  social 
events. 

Left  from  Presque  Isle  on  State  1A  to  Aroostook  Farm  (L)  (open),  1  m.,  a  275-acre 
experiment  station.  The  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture,  in  co-opera- 
tion with  the  University  of  Maine  and  the  Aroostook  County  Farm  Bureau, 
conducts  farm  research  work  here.  Experiments  in  plant  foods,  soils,  plant 
diseases,  growing  methods,  and  crop  control  are  carried  on,  both  in  the  field  and 
in  a  modern,  well-equipped  laboratory. 

CARIBOU  (alt.  495,  Caribou  Town,  pop.  7248),  145.5  m.,  the  potato- 
shipping  center  of  northern  Aroostook  County,  sends  out  thousands  of 
carloads  for  seed  and  consumption. 

Along  the  railroad  tracks  of  this  community  on  Caribou  Stream  are  long 
potato  warehouses  with  a  capacity  of  400,000  barrels.  Offices  of  potato- 
protection  societies,  brokers,  growers,  and  shippers  occupy  the  buildings 
of  the  modern  business  district.  During  the  growing  and  picking  season 
the  streets  of  the  town  teem  with  motor-trucks  and  the  low-slung  horse- 
drawn  wagons  used  in  transporting  potato  barrels.  Conversation  revolves 


246  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

around  the  possible  price  the  crop  will  bring,  and  harvest  time  finds 
speculation  rife  on  the  trend  of  the  potato  market. 

When  the  crops  have  ripened  in  the  broad  surrounding  fields,  an  army  of 
pickers  arrives  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States  on  their  circuit  of 
seasonal  jobs.  In  the  old  days  the  farmers  of  Aroostook  kept  a  'shed 
room '  for  the  farm  hands.  The  pickers  are  still  '  boarded '  in  the  potato 
country  where  they  are  well  fed  and  housed.  Pickers  are  paid  10  cents  a 
barrel  and  an  unusually  good  worker  can  average  100  barrels  a  day  during 
the  harvest  season.  The  farmers  fare  well  in  the  good  years  and  it  is  not 
unusual  for  the  potato  growers  in  the  district  to  receive  $5,000,000  for  the 
year's  crop. 

In  February  the  annual  Aroostook  Sportsmen's  Show  attracts  large 
numbers  of  visitors;  the  climax  of  the  event  is  the  Bangor-Caribou  Ski 
Marathon  of  about  170  miles. 

The  Caribou  Municipal  Airport,  south  of  the  village  on  US  1,  the  first 
municipal  airport  built  in  Maine,  is  the  only  port  of  entry  (1937)  for  air- 
planes on  the  Maine-Canadian  border.  Its  hangars  accommodate  10 
planes. 

The  Aroostook  and  Little  Madawaska  Rivers  and  Caribou  Stream,  flowing 
through  the  township,  offer  excellent  trout  and  salmon  fishing. 

1.  Right  from  Caribou  on  State  223  to  a  State  Fish  Hatchery  (R)  (open),  1  m., 
which  annually  stocks  the  streams  in  this  part  of  Aroostook  with  thousands  of 
salmon  and  trout.  Near  the  feeding  ponds  of  the  hatchery  is  a  picnic  grove. 

2.  Right  from  Caribou  on  State  161  is  FORT  FAIRFIELD  (alt.  390,  Fort  Fair- 
field  Town,  pop.  5393),  13  m.,  port  of  entry  from  Canada  on  the  St.  John  River. 
It  was  named  for  a  border  fort  which,  in  turn,  was  named  in  honor  of  Governor 
John  Fairfield.    The  town  was  settled  in  1816  by  people  from  the  Canadian 
Provinces,  who  played  an  important  part  in  the  Aroostook  War  (see  History). 

The  Aroostook  Country  Club,  Ltd.,  across  the  river  and  just  over  the  Canadian 
border,  was  built  during  the  prohibition  era.  It  has  a  9-hole  golf  course  and  a  club- 
house used  by  citizens  of  both  countries. 

3.  Left  from  Caribou  on  State  161  is  NEW  SWEDEN  (alt.  865,  New  Sweden 
Town,  pop.  898),  8.9  m.,  a  modern  settlement  that  is  the  result  of  a  successful  im- 
migration experiment  of  1870.    The  legislature  in  that  year  appointed  William 
Widgery  Thomas,  Jr.,  Commissioner  of  Immigration.  Free  farms  had  been  offered 
by  the  State  and  Thomas,  former  consul  at  Gothenburg,  Sweden,  proceeded  to  that 
country  in  the  spring,  recruited  a  colony  of  51  men,  women,  and  children,  and  re- 
turned with  them  to  this  township  in  Aroostook,  which  had  been  set  aside  for  their 
occupancy.  Other  people  from  Sweden  followed  and  today's  population  consists  of 
their  descendants.   Every  10  years  festivities  are  held  in  commemoration  of  the 
founding  of  the  community. 

VAN  BUREN  (alt.  495,  Van  Buren  Town,  pop.  4721),  167  m.,  named 
for  President  Martin  Van  Buren,  is  the  largest  of  the  northern  boundary 
towns  in  population.  The  inhabitants  are  employed  in  lumber  operations 
or  in  the  potato  fields.  A  bridge  here  spans  the  St.  John  River,  which 
parallels  the  main  street. 

During  the  days  when  extensive  lumbering  operations  were  being  carried 
on  in  the  vast  tracts  of  land  at  the  head  of  the  St.  John  River  and  its 
tributaries,  the  river  was  used  to  float  the  huge  logs  to  sawmills  and 


TOUR  1 :   From  Portsmouth  to  Clair  247 

markets.  At  intervals  booms,  or  floating  chains  of  logs,  were  attached  to 
piers  and  other  structures  on  the  banks  to  hold  back  the  flow  of  logs.  The 
five  small  islands  in  the  river  near  Van  Buren  formed  a  barrier  that  could 
be  utilized  in  forming  one  of  these  temporary  dams  and  the  place  was  the 
scene  of  great  activity  during  the  spring  log  drives.  The  air  would  be 
filled  with  the  rumble  of  cracking  ice,  and  the  thunder  and  crash  of  the 
logs  hurled  against  each  other.  Frequent  jams  occurred  that  had  to  be 
broken  at  considerable  risk  to  the  drivers  who,  here  as  elsewhere,  were  a 
wild,  hard-drinking,  dare-devil  crew.  Their  feats,  appetites,  and  vocab- 
ularies became  matters  of  legend  that  filled  every  small  boy  in  the  com- 
munity with  envy.  The  spring  drives  continue  but  have  lost  some  of  their 
colorful  character. 

KEEGAN  (alt.  450,  Van  Buren  Town),  169.3  m.,  is  the  site  of  the  first 
French-Acadian  settlement  in  the  town.  The  lumber  industry,  the  back- 
bone of  the  community  in  the  boom  days,  has  dwindled  to  sporadic  bursts 
of  activity  and  lumber  mills  along  the  river  are  idle  most  of  the  year. 

GRAND  ISLE  (alt.  510,  Grand  Isle  Town,  pop.  1408),  182  m.,  is  a  vil- 
lage that,  like  other  small  ones  in  this  area,  is  notable  only  for  the  or- 
nateness  of  its  church. 

ST.  DAVID  (alt.  510,  Madawaska  Town),  187.8  m.,  is  the  original  place 
of  settlement  of  the  Acadian  refugees  who  came  to  this  region  from  Nova 
Scotia  (see  above).  They  had  traveled  along  the  St.  John  until  they 
reached  a  village  of  the  Malecite  Indians,  who  permitted  them  to  land  on 
the  forest-lined  shores.  Acres  of  meadowland  and  pasture  were  cleared, 
roads  were  built,  and  commodious  farm  buildings  and  smaller  dwellings 
sprang  up.  Opposite,  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  river,  is  the  Malecite 
Indian  Reservation. 

A  large  White  Cross,  at  the  rear  of  St.  David's  Church  (R),  188.6  m.,  marks 
the  landing-place  of  the  Acadians. 

MADAWASKA  (alt.  595,  Madawaska  Town,  pop.  3533),  190.6  m.,  a  port 
of  entry  from  Canada  into  the  United  States,  has  an  atmosphere  of  in- 
dustrial activity  that  differentiates  it  from  other  Aroostook  communities 
on  this  route.  At  the  northern  edge  of  the  village  on  Bridge  St.  are  (R)  the 
large  Fraser  Paper  Company,  Ltd.,  Mills  (visited  by  permit).  The  establish- 
ment of  these  mills  in  1926  brought  skilled  workmen  and  business  to  what 
had  been  a  sleepy  little  river  village.  Large  pipes  that  carry  the  paper 
pulp  in  liquid  form  span  the  St.  John  River  and  connect  the  mill  here 
with  the,  one  at  Edmundston,  N.B. 

FRENCHVILLE  (alt.  501,  Frenchville  Town,  pop.  1525),  197.9  m.,  is 
strung  out  along  a  bend  of  the  St.  John  River.  As  in  near-by  towns  the 
inhabitants  here  are  descendants  of  the  French  Acadians,  and  are  de- 
pendent upon  the  potato  crop  for  their  livelihood.  Scattered  throughout 
the  area  are  occasional  sawmills,  reminders  of  the  once-active  lumber 
industry. 

Left  from  Frenchville  on  State  162  is  ST.  AGATHA  (san  tagat')  (alt.  615,  St. 
Agatha  Town,  pop.  1596),  4.5  m.,  on  the  northwest  shore  of  Long  Lake,  the  starting- 


248  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

point  of  the  Fish  River  Chain  of  Lakes  (see  Sports  and  Recreation).  There  are 
several  sporting  camps  (guides  available)  along  the  shores  of  the  lake  which  offers 
excellent  trout  and  salmon  fishing. 

At  200.1  m.  are  the  imposing  buildings  of  St.  Luke  Church  and  St.  Rosaire 
Convent. 

FORT  KENT  (alt.  530,  Fort  Kent  Town,  pop.  4726),  210.2  m.,  is  a  port 
of  entry  from  Canada.  It  was  settled  by  French  refugees  from  Acadia 
and,  when  incorporated  in  1869,  took  the  name  of  a  fort  that  was  erected 
here  in  1839  (see  below).  Here,  as  in  other  villages  along  the  river,  the 
simple  one-  and  two-story  buildings  are  overtopped  by  the  spire  of  the 
Roman  Catholic  church.  Most  of  the  population  speaks  a  provincial 
French  and,  being  strongly  religious,  observes  the  church  feasts  and  fasts 
faithfuUy. 

A  Corpus  Christi  Procession,  held  on  the  Thursday  following  Trinity 
Sunday,  which  is  the  eighth  Sunday  after  Easter,  is  the  most  impressive  of 
these.  This  medieval  splendor  and  pageantry  is  preserved  in  the  colorful 
vestments  of  the  priests  and  in  the  banners. 

Fort  Kent,  on  Main  St.  opposite  Pleasant  St.,  marked  by  a  small  heavily 
built  Blockhouse  (open),  is  a  relic  of  the  troubled  days  of  the  Aroostook 
War.  Edward  Kent  was  Governor  of  Maine  in  1838  when  plans  were 
made  for  this  fort  to  protect  the  lumber  interests  of  the  area,  and  it,  as 
well  as  the  township,  was  named  for  him.  The  blockhouse  stands  on  a 
slight  eminence  and  commands  a  view  of  the  near-by  St.  John  River. 
The  sturdy  timbers,  the  hand-wrought  ironware  of  the  doors  and  win- 
dows, and  the  weathered  wood  of  the  blockhouse  show  the  painstaking 
workmanship  of  an  early  day. 

A  cannon  that  belonged  to  the  fort  is  now  on  the  greensward  in  front  of 
the  library  in  Fort  Fairfield  (see  above),  to  the  disgust  of  the  citizens  of 
Fort  Kent.  After  Fort  Fairfield  had  been  torn  down  the  citizens  of  that 
town  came  to  regret  that  they  had  no  souvenir  of  the  Aroostook  War. 
Someone  there  discovered  that  the  custodian  of  the  old  Fort  Kent  cannon 
was  very  fond  of  strong  spirits  and  arranged  to  have  him  liberally  sup- 
plied with  them  while  the  cannon  was  moved  away. 

Fort  Kent  is  at  a  junction  with  State  11  (see  Tour  6).  The  village  is  the 
terminus  of  the  Allagash  River  Canoe  Trip  (see  Sports  and  Recreation: 
Canoeing). 

Left  from  Fort  Kent,  near  the  International  Bridge,  on  a  local  road  to  ST.  FRAN- 
CIS (alt.  597;  St.  Francis  Plantation,  pop.  1367),  16  m.,  a  small  French  settlement 
near  the  point  where  the  St.  Francis  River  flows  into  the  St.  John  River.  This 
woods-surrounded  settlement  is  one  of  the  northern  termini  on  the  Allagash  River 
Canoe  Trip. 

At  210.4  m.  (R)  is  the  International  Bridge.  Clair,  N.B.,  lies  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river. 


TOUR      1  A  :     From  JUNCTION  WITH  US  1  to  CAPE  NED- 
DICK,  15.4  m.y  Unnumbered  road  and  State  1A. 


Via  Kittery,  Kittery  Point,  York,  York  Harbor,  York  Beach. 
Two-lane  tarred  roadbed. 

THIS  route,  an  alternate  to  US  1  just  north  of  the  New  Hampshire  Line, 
follows  the  Piscataqua  River  near  the  sea. 

An  unnumbered  road  branches  east  from  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a),  0  m'., 
at  a  point  0.5  m.  north  of  the  Portsmouth  Bridge. 

KITTERY  (alt.  50,  Kittery  Town,  pop.  4400),  0.3  m.,  is  the  administra- 
tive center  of  a  town,  formerly  much  larger,  that  was  incorporated 
October  20,  1647,  as  Piscataqua  Plantation.  The  interests  of  the  village 
center  largely  around  the  Portsmouth  Navy  Yard  (open  to  public),  the 
entrance  to  which  is  right.  The  yard,  established  in  1806,  is  spread  over 
several  islands  in  the  Piscataqua  River.  Admiral  Cervera  and  his  staff, 
captured  during  the  Spanish-American  War,  were  technically  held 
prisoners  in  the  yard  for  a  time.  The  so-called  Portsmouth  Conference, 
for  the  arrangement  of  the  treaty  of  peace  at  the  end  of  the  Russo- 
Japanese  War,  was  held  here,  the  treaty  being  signed  in  the  Supply 
Department  Building. 

Kittery  has  been  interested  in  shipbuilding  since  its  earliest  days.  The 
'Ranger'  was  built  in  this  yard  in  1777  and  the  members  of  the  crew  were 
chiefly  Kittery  men.  This  was  the  ship,  commanded  by  John  Paul  Jones 
and  sent  to  France  to  carry  word  to  the  American  commissioners  that 
Burgoyne  had  surrendered,  that  received  the  first  salute  accorded  a  ship 
of  the  new  Republic.  Kittery  yards  also  built  the  'Kearsarge/  whose 
fight  with  the  *  Alabama '  was  an  important  naval  event  during  the  Civil 
War. 

At  0.5  m.  (R)  is  a  good  view  of  the  Navy  Yard  buildings.  The  highway 
proceeds  between  rows  of  beautiful,  well-kept  old  homes. 

The  Lady  Pepper  ell  House  (private),  2.1  m.  (R),  was  built  between  1760 
and  1765  for  the  widow  of  Sir  William  Pepperell,  soldier-merchant  (see 
below).  Lady  Pepperell,  born  Marjory  Bray,  lived  here  till  her  death  in 
1789,  always  using  her  former  title  in  spite  of  the  Revolution  that  de- 
stroyed it,  and  demanding  the  deference  to  which  she  felt  it  entitled  her. 
The  house,  an  elaborate  two-story  structure  of  Georgian  design  with  a  hip 
roof  and  four  large  chimneys,  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  two  skilled 
English  carpenters.  The  ell  in  the  rear  is  of  later  construction.  The  main 
facade  is  heavy  and  lacking  in  refinement,  in  spite  of  the  corner  quoins 
and  the  pedimented  central  pavilion,  which  is  flanked  by  two  pedestaled 
Ionic  pilasters,  whose  richly  carved  caps  carry  a  bellied  fringe  and  cornice 
uniting  them  with  the  modillioned  main  cornice.  The  most  interesting 


250  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

room  in  the  house,  said  to  be  the  work  of  Pelatiah  Fernald,  a  local  man,  is 
the  small  one  behind  the  parlor;  it  has  a  charming  fireplace,  paneled  and 
finished  flush  with  the  closet  on  either  side  of  it. 

Opposite  the  house  is  the  First  Congregational  Church,  built  in  1730  and 
remodeled  and  turned  in  1874.  The  most  interesting  feature  of  the  build- 
ing is  the  pulpit;  the  steps  on  each  side  are  of  later  date,  but  the  central 
part,  with  delicate  paneling  and  graceful  lines,  bears  the  date  1730.  The 
church  has  a  belfry  and  many-paned  windows. 

Next  to  the  church  is  the  entrance  to  the  long  tree-bordered  walk  leading 
to  the  Sparhawk  House  (1742),  classed  among  the  really  fine  Georgian 
houses  of  America,  and  said  to  have  been  built  by  Sir  William  Pepperell 
for  his  son-in-law.  Except  for  the  addition  of  a  rear  ell  and  a  cupola,  the 
house  has  been  little  changed  since  it  was  built.  The  massive  structure, 
now  painted  white,  has  a  gambrel  roof  broken  by  end  chimneys  and,  on 
the  front,  by  five  pedimented  dormers.  The  many-paned  windows  of  the 
first  story  on  the  front,  and  of  both  stories  on  the  sides,  have  triple 
pediments.  The  entrance,  with  a  i2-paneled  door,  richly  carved  pilasters, 
and  graceful  scrolled  pediment,  is  the  most  interesting  feature  of  the  ex- 
terior. The  house  is  of  the  central-hall  type,  with  four  rooms  on  each 
floor;  the  stairway,  with  a  fluted  newel  topped  with  a  pineapple  motif,  has 
richly  carved  and  elaborately  turned  and  twisted  balusters.  The  parlor  on 
the  right,  which  is  wainscoted  and  paneled,  contains  an  octagonal  chim- 
ney, the  fireplace  of  which,  with  paneled  overmantel,  is  flanked  by 
delicately  fluted  pilasters.  The  reception  room,  also  finished  with  fine 
raised  paneling  and  having  deeply  recessed  windows  and  window  seats,  is 
somewhat  plainer  in  design. 

At  2.4  m.  (R)  is  the  entrance  to  Fort  McClary  (open),  which  commands  a 
view  of  the  river. 

The  fort,  now  partly  in  ruins,  was  built  in  1690  and  called  first  Pepperell's 
Fort  and  later  Fort  William.  The  present  name  was  given  at  the  time  of 
the  Revolutionary  War.  The  fort  was  garrisoned  again  during  the  Civil 
War,  extensive  repairs  and  additions  being  made.  It  is  hexagonal  in  shape. 
The  chief  feature  of  interest  now  is  the  old  blockhouse  with  overhang, 
which  was  built  in  1812. 

A  winding  road  leads  through  a  forested  area  to  KITTERY  POINT  (alt. 
40,  Kittery  Town),  2.8  m.,  one  of  the  earliest  settled  sections  of  the  town. 
It  is  now  a  fishing  village  and  summer  resort.  The  lighthouse  on  Apple- 
dore  Island  is  visible  from  the  point  on  a  clear  day. 
In  the  center  of  the  village  is  the  Pepperell  House  (private),  a  weather- 
beaten  two-and-a-half-story  dwelling  with  gambrel  roof.  It  was  built  in 
1682  and  was  the  home  of  the  first  William  Pepperell,  father  of  the 
baronet.  The  door  and  window  casings  still  show  the  marks  of  hand 
cutting  and  the  windows  have  the  original  lights,  1 2  in  the  upper  sashes, 
8  in  the  lower.  Above  the  front  door  is  a  spread-eagle  decoration  of  metal. 
At  a  cement  triangle,  3.2  m.,  bear  right  on  Braveboat  Harbor  Road.  At  a 
fork,  6.3  m.,  continue  left. 


TOUR  1A:    From  Junction  with  US  1  to  Cape  Neddick      251 

At  8  m.  the  road  crosses  SewalVs  Bridge  (1757) ;  the  original  was  one  of  the 
first  pile  bridges  in  America. 

On  the  river  bank  (L)  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  bridge  is  the  large  red, 
two-and-a-half-story  Sewall  House  with  a  central  chimney,  shaded  by  fine 
old  elms.  This  house  was  once  owned  by  a  member  of  the  Sewall  family, 
but  there  are  no  records  showing  that  Samuel  Sewall,  the  bridge  builder, 
lived  here.  A  cigar-store  Indian  on  the  river  bank  marks  the  supposed  exit 
of  a  former  secret  passage  built  to  enable  those  in  the  house  to  escape  in 
case  the  place  were  attacked  by  Indians.  This  house,  built  in  the  early 
days  of  the  igth  century,  is  designed  with  unusual  dignity  and  restraint. 
The  monumental  facade,  with  its  fine  entrance  portal,  decorative  Ionic 
pilasters,  heavy  dentiled  cornice,  and  balustraded  parapet,  is  finished  with 
flush,  matched  siding  in  contrast  with  the  clapboards  at  the  sides.  The 
lawn  is  enclosed  by  a  delicate  railed  fence,  notable  for  its  urn-topped  posts 
and  square  balusters;  the  latter  are  set  diagonally  to  obtain  the  best  play 
of  light  and  shade. 

The  design  of  the  main  entrance  is  of  exceptional  charm  and  grace. 
Crowned  by  a  fine  dentiled  cornice  and  elliptical  fan-light,  the  eight- 
paneled  door  is  flanked  by  finely  modeled  Ionic  pilasters  and  engaged 
columns;  their  slender  shafts  having  the  classic  refinement  of  entasis. 
The  interior,  with  a  delicately  paneled  stairhall  and  spacious  salons  is 
designed  with  a  dignity  in  keeping  with  the  exterior.  The  windows  in  the 
dining  room  on  the  left  have  sliding  shutters.  The  parlor  mantel  is  orna- 
mented with  a  decorative  frieze  bearing  the  allegorical  figures  of  Peace 
and  Justice. 

After  passing  (R)  the  York  Country  Club  (visitors  admitted),  and  several 
attractive  summer  homes,  the  unmarked  route  at  9  m.  becomes  State  1A. 

YORK  (alt.  50,  York  Town,  pop.  2532),  9.6  m.,  one  of  the  most  attractive 
old  coastal  villages,  is  the  commercial  center  of  the  near-by  beach  resorts. 
Generally  known  as  Old  York  and  now  under  the  township  form  of 
government,  York  was  settled  as  Agamenticus  about  1624  by  the  Ply- 
mouth Company  and  was  given  a  city  charter  and  government  under 
name  of  Gorgeana  in  1641  by  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges.  Thomas  Gorges,  a 
nephew  of  Sir  Ferdinando,  was  the  first  mayor,  and  the  little  wilderness 
'city'  had  a  full  set  of  officials,  including  aldermen  and  sergeants.  In 
1652,  Gorgeana  was  reorganized  as  a  town  and  called  York  after  the 
English  county  of  that  name.  In  1716  it  was  made  the  shire  town  of 
Yorkshire,  now  York  County,  by  the  legislature  of  Massachusetts. 

After  the  battle  of  Dunbar,  Scotland,  in  1650,  Oliver  Cromwell  found 
himself  with  many  prisoners  on  his  hands.  More  than  1000  of  them  were 
sent  to  the  Colonies,  150  being  apportioned  to  New  England  to  be  sold  at 
£20  and  £30  each  for  service  to  last  six,  seven,  and  eight  years;  the 
proceeds  of  the  sale  went  to  the  captain  of  the  ship.  A  year  later,  after  the 
battle  of  Worcester,  England,  more  bondmen  were  sent  over,  275  of  them 
to  Boston  on  the  ship  'John  and  Sarah.'  Many  were  brought  to  Maine. 
The  prisoners,  after  having  completed  their  terms  of  servitude,  were  free 
to  settle  where  they  chose  and  twelve  of  them  remained  in  York.  The 


252  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

first  Scot  to  settle  in  York  (1657)  was  Alexander  Maxwell  who  had  been 
sold  to  George  Leader  of  Berwick.  After  him  came  others  from  Dover  and 
Exeter  to  form  the  section  of  the  town  known  as  Scotland. 

As  the  friction  between  the  Colonies  and  the  mother  country  increased,  the 
people  of  York  took  sides,  most  favoring  the  Colonial  cause.  They  even 
had  their  own  'tea  party,'  when  the  sloop  'Cynthia,'  with  James  Donnell 
as  master,  anchored  at  Keating's  wharf  with  a  cargo  containing  150 
pounds  of  tea  for  his  uncle,  Deacon  Jonathan  Sayward.  The  Sons  of 
Liberty,  much  incensed,  seized  the  tea  and  carried  it  to  Captain  Edward 
Grow's  store  for  safekeeping.  The  next  night  a  roving  band  of  '  Pequawket 
Indians '  entered  the  town,  broke  into  the  store,  and  carried  the  tea  away. 

This  town,  in  which  many  important  events  in  the  State's  early  history 
occurred,  saw  the  beginnings  of  industrial  activity  in  Maine  with  the  es- 
tablishment of  the  first  cotton  mill.  The  York  Cotton  Factory  Company 
was  incorporated  by  the  Massachusetts  Legislature  February  12,  1811. 

York  was  once  the  home  of  Madam  Wood,  Maine's  first  novelist  (see 
The  Arts). 

In  the  village  is  (L)  a  beautiful  white  Church  (1747),  its  clock  tower  and 
spire  surmounted  by  a  weathervane  and  cock.  The  stained  windows  were 
added  many  years  after  its  construction. 

The  lichen-covered  slate  headstones  of  the  Old  York  Cemetery  (R),  dating 
back  to  the  early  part  of  the  i8th  century,  bear  many  old-fashioned  in- 
scriptions beneath  such  somber  and  conventional  designs  as  the  weeping 
willow  and  the  Grecian  urn.  Many  of  the  headstones  have  crude  death's 
heads  with  wings  over  the  inscriptions  with  their  old  English  spelling.  One 
grave,  completely  covered  by  a  large  boulder  placed  between  the  head- 
stone and  footstone  so  the  occupant  could  never  escape,  is  called  the 
Witch's  Grave,  said  to  be  that  of  a  woman  executed  for  witchcraft  and 
buried  here  in  1744. 

Next  (L)  is  the  Town  Hall,  built  in  1747  and  rebuilt  in  1882. 

Farther  along  (R)  is  the  York  Gaol  (open  in  summer),  now  a  museum. 
The  large  gambrel-roof  building  with  frame  ends  is  built  around  the  stone 
jail,  built  in  1653;  the  walls  of  the  old  building  form  the  sides  of  the  later 
one.  In  the  old  part  of  the  structure  are  dark  cells.  The  place  contains 
many  old  Colonial  and  Indian  relics. 

The  Wilcox  House  (private),  opposite  the  jail,  was  originally  a  tavern.  It 
stands  on  land  leased  for  900  years,  300  years  of  which  have  elapsed. 

The  fourth  house  (L)  on  Long  Lands  Road  is  Coventry  Hall  (private),  a 
large,  handsome,  two-story  white  house  with  ornamental  balustrade 
around  the  edge  of  the  flat  roof.  The  entrance  door  has  a  fan-light  and  is 
framed  by  slender  columns. 

Opposite  Coventry  Hall  is  the  Woodbridge  House  (private),  a  two-and-a- 
half-story,  hip-roof  structure  with  dormers  in  front  and  an  elaborate 
captain's  walk  on  the  roof. 

At  10.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  tar-surfaced  road. 


CULTURAL      LANDMARKS 


THE  pride  of  Maine,  her  distinguished  sons  and  daughters, 
is  accorded  enough  recognition  within  the  State  to  refute 
satisfactorily  the  often-repeated  saying  about  the  prophet  in 
his  own  land.  Many  communities  throughout  Maine  boast 
a  local  museum  dedicated  to  the  memory  of  the  celebrity  who 
was  born  or  who  once  lived  there.  The  Longfellow  houses 
are,  of  course,  the  most  famous  of  these,  and  they  reflect  in 
their  design  the  tradition  of  gracious  living  which  the  poet 
always  represented.  But  the  homes  of  Sarah  Orne  Jewett  and 
Lillian  Nordica  are  likewise  shrines  to  many  pilgrims,  as  are 
those  houses  made  famous  by  transient  human  genius  which 
are  not  open  to  the  public,  but  which  are  constantly  pointed 
to  with  pride  by  remembering  neighbors.  The  L.  D.  M.  Sweat 
Museum  is  at  once  a  memorial  to  a  prominent  Portland  family 
and  a  municipal  art  gallery. 

Maine's  educational  institutions  are  here  represented  by  four 
pictures.  Fryeburg  Academy  is  the  old  boarding-school  where 
Daniel  Webster  started  out  in  life  at  the  age  of  twenty  as  a 
'preceptor.'  The  view  of  the  library  at  Bowdoin  College,  its 
central  building,  is  an  unusual  one. 


~^ 


sils 


yfflL  :.-•- 


WADS\VORTH-LONGFELLOW  HOUSE,  PORTLAND 


LONGFEUX)W  S  BIRTHPLACE,  PORTIJIND 


is4H  * 

! 


L.  D.  M.  SWEAT  MUSEUM,  PORTLAND 


ffl 

III 


FRYEBURG  ACADEMY 


ADMINISTRATION  BUILDING,  UNIVERSITY  OF  MAINE,  ORONO 


COBURN  HALL,  COLBY  COLLEGE,  WATERVILLE 


REAR  WING  OF  BOWDOIN  COLLEGE  LIBRARY,  BRUNSWICK 


MADAME  NORDICA  S  HOMESTEAD,  FARMINGTON 


EMMA  EAMES  HOUSE,  BATH 


ilJU    U 


QUIJLLCOTE,  HOME  OF  KATE  DOUGLAS  WIGGIN,  HOLLIS 


REDINGTON  MUSEUM,  WATERV1LLE 


HOME  OF  JACOB  ABBOTT,  FARMI NGTON 


SARAH  ORNE  JEWETT  MEMORIAL,  BERWICK 


TOUR  IB:   From  Junction  with  US  1  to  Biddeford         253 

Right  on  this  road  and  left  at  0.1  m.  to  the  Sayward  House  (private),  0.2  m.,  a  white 
two-story  gable-end  house  with  an  ell  that  exactly  copies  the  main  structure. 

YORK  HARBOR  (alt.  50,  York  Town),  10.3  m.,  on  a  headland  at  the 
mouth  of  York  River,  has  long  been  a  fashionable  resort.  The  shore 
estates  and  residences  along  the  heavily  shaded  streets  are  dignified  and 
impressive. 

At  12.5  m.  is  the  southern  end  of  a  i. 5-mile  stretch  of  sand  known  locally 
as  Long  Beach,  part  of  the  York  Beach  resort  area,  with  cottages  (L) 
bordering  the  shore  road.  The  wide  beach,  the  delight  of  sea  bathers  and 
one  of  the  most  attractive  in  Maine,  is  unmarred  by  concessions.  The 
Boon  Island  and  Nubble  lighthouses  are  visible  from  the  beach. 

At  13.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  improved  road. 
Right  on  this  road  to  Nubble  Light,  1  m. 

YORK  BEACH  (alt.  20,  York  Town),  14  m.,  is  the  busy  center  of  the 
resort  area.  While  having  public  amusement  facilities,  it  is  not  garish. 

At  15.4  m.  State  1A  joins  US  1,  near  Cape  Neddick  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a). 


TOUR      IB:     From  JUNCTION  WITH  US  I  to  BIDDEFORD, 
20.8  m.,  State  9. 


Via  Kennebunkport,  Cape  Porpoise,  and  Fortune  Rocks. 
Two-lane  tarred  road. 

STATE  9,  winding  through  marshlands,  from  time  to  time  reaches  high 
ground  with  thick  growths  of  pine  and  hemlock.  It  runs  fairly  close  to 
the  rocky  shores  and  sandy  beaches  of  a  broad  peninsula. 

State  9  branches  east  from  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a),  0  m.,  at  a  point  1.8  m. 
north  of  Wells  and  runs  through  heavy  forest  growth  broken  at  intervals 
by  marshy  inlets. 

At  2.9  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  local  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  KENNEBUNK  BEACH  (alt.  15,  Kennebunk  Town),  0.9  m., 
where  great  spurs  of  rock  extend  into  the  ocean,  breaking  a  long  stretch  of  white 
sand.  Summer  hotels  and  residences  in  attractive  groves  overlook  the  water. 

KENNEBUNKPORT  (alt.  20,  Kennebunkport  Town,  pop.  1284),  4.4  m., 
an  elm-shaded  resort  village,  was  once  the  chief  shipbuilding  center  of 
York  County  and  a  port  of  some  importance.  The  old  houses  dating 
back  to  1785,  with  their  captain's  walks,  are  reminiscent  of  the  days  when 
the  occupants  waited  anxiously  for  the  return  on  their  investments  by  sea. 
In  the  outskirts  amid  charming  gardens  are  the  summer  homes  of  Booth 
Tarkington,  Margaret  Deland,  Kenneth  Roberts,  and  other  writers  and 


254  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

artists.  Much  of  Tarkington's  writing  has  been  done  aboard  the  l  Regina,' 
which  is  tied  up  near  the  River  Club  on  Ocean  Ave. 

A  gay  event  of  the  summer  season  here  is  the  Water  Carnival,  held  at 
night;  the  dark  waters  of  the  river  then  gleam  with  the  reflections  of 
hundreds  of  twinkling  lights. 

The  Garrick  Playhouse  (L),  on  Temple  St.,  is  a  summer  theater  in  which 
plays  are  presented  during  the  summer  months  as  try-outs  before  the 
New  York  season. 

A  beautiful  example  of  old  New  England  church  architecture  is  the  First 
Congregational  Church  (1764),  also  on  Temple  St.,  with  a  stately  columned 
portico  and  graceful  spire. 

The  old  Perkins  Mill  (L),  on  Mill  Lane,  a  picturesque,  weather-beaten 
structure  perched  on  the  edge  of  a  stream,  has  been  grinding  grain  since 
1749,  when  there  were  but  four  houses  in  Kennebunkport. 

The  Luques  House  (private},  corner  Main  and  Union  Sts.,  is  a  two-story 
gable-end  house  with  a  matching  ell.  It  has  a  beautiful  fan-light  over  the 
entrance  door. 

CAPE  PORPOISE  (alt.  20,  Kennebunkport  Town),  6.7  m.,  is  a  year- 
around  fishing  village  with  summer  residences  along  the  shores;  in  summer 
the  sheltered  harbor  is  brightened  by  innumerable  small  boats.  Inns  here 
are  famous  for  their  sea-food  dinners.  Lobsters  taken  green  from  the  cold 
sea  waters  are,  within  an  hour,  served  piping  hot  in  scarlet  shells. 

Right  from  Cape  Porpoise  on  a  local  road;  from  the  summit  of  a  small  hill  at  0.5  m. 
is  a  view  of  the  colorful  harbor  where  small,  lightly  wooded  islands  make  irregular 
green  patches  on  the  blue  surface.  Here  and  there  brown  reefs  shine  with  the  spray 
of  the  surf.  The  white,  cylindrical  tower  of  Goat  Island  Light  at  the  entrance  to  the 
outer  harbor  is  visible  from  this  point. 

FORTUNE  ROCKS  (alt.  15,  Biddeford),  13  m.,  attracts  many  summer 
residents  to  its  bold  rocks  and  sandy  beaches  by  the  sea. 

North  of  Fortune  Rocks  the  highway  passes  Three  Fresh-Water  Ponds  (L) 
not  50  feet  from  the  salt  spray  of  the  surf. 

At  14.1  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  208. 

Right  on  State  208  to  BIDDEFORD  POOL  (alt.  15,  Biddeford),  1.2  m.  The  land- 
scaped grounds  of  several  large  estates  follow  the  curving  shores  of  Fletcher's  Neck, 
and  cottages  of  every  description  cluster  around  the  wharves  on  a  deep  narrow  gut. 
Dories  and  lobster  traps  are  scattered  about  the  wharves,  and  all  summer  long 
stout  fishing  boats,  light  yachts,  and  cruisers  lie  at  anchor  in  the  saucer-shaped 
cove. 

At  2.2  m.  (R),  facing  open  ocean  across  the  fissured  rocks  of  the  shore,  is  a  Coast 
Guard  Station. 

A  bronze  marker  (L),  between  two  buildings,  at  14.2  m.,  marks  the  Site  of 
the  Richard  Vines  House,  a  thatch-roof  log  structure  built  in  1616,  when 
Captain  Vines  and  a  crew  of  16  men  spent  the  winter  here  testing  out  the 
winter  climate  of  Maine  for  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges,  who  wanted  to  send 
out  a  group  of  colonists.  Vines  called  the  place  Winter  Harbor  and  he  and 
his  men  were  so  comfortable  that  he  reported  enthusiastically  that  there 


TOUR  1C:  From  Saco  to  Dunstan  255 

had  not  been  as  much  as  a  headache  to  plague  them.  During  this  winter 
he  explored  the  Saco  River  and  its  banks. 

The  Haley  House  (private),  14.6  m.  (R),  is  a  salt-box  house,  built  in  1730, 
that  has  had  numerous  additions.  The  weathered,  clapboarded  dwelling 
was  built  by  Benjamin  Haley,  who  did  not  agree  with  his  neighbors  on  the 
character  of  the  Indians  and  refused  to  take  refuge  with  them  in  the  Tar- 
box  Garrison  at  night.  One  bitter  evening  he  admitted  two  Indians  who 
apparently  judged  him  to  be  as  hostile  as  others  they  had  met  and  tried 
to  snatch  brands  from  the  fire  to  burn  the  house.  He  succeeded  in  eject- 
ing them  and  spent  his  nights  in  the  garrison  thereafter. 

At  15.9  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  tarred  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  HILLS  BEACH  (alt.  20,  Biddeford),  1  m.,  where  small 
summer  cottages  and  fishermen's  homes  straggle  along  the  narrow  spit  stretching 
to  Biddeford  Pool.  A  landmark  for  seamen  is  a  tall  white  Monument  on  Basket's 
Island  (L). 

At  the  end  of  the  point,  1.9  m.,  a  bronze  tablet,  facing  the  wharves  of  the  pool 
across  the  gut,  marks  the  Site  of  Fort  Hill,  built  about  1688. 

The  Goldwaithe  House  (1717),  west  of  the  fort  site,  was  once  known  as  the  Jordan 
Garrison  House.  The  high  surrounding  palisade  of  timber  and  stone  with  corner 
lookouts  has  disappeared,  and  the  dilapidated  two-story  house  bears  no  evidence  of 
its  former  use. 

At  16.1  m.  (R)  is  the  Stella  Marls  Home,  a  kindergarten  boarding-school 
supervised  by  the  Franciscan  Brothers. 

At  17  m.  is  the  junction  with  Ferry  Lane. 

Right  down  Ferry  Lane  to  what  is  known  as  the  Lower  Ferry  on  the  Saco  River, 
where  is  the  Site  of  the  First  Hotel  in  Maine,  0.4  m.  The  Saco  court  records  for  1654 
state  that  one  Henry  Waddock  was  granted  the  right '  to  keep  an  ordinary  to  enter- 
tain strangers  for  their  money.'  Apparently  the  entertainment  of  guests  caused 
some  concern  in  the  community,  for  the  court  made  some  very  sharp  rulings  as  to 
the  conduct  of  drinkers.  One  of  these  regulations  reads :  '  Whoever  is  drunk  pays 
35.  4d.;  for  drinking  too  much,  2s.  6d.;  for  sitting  after  nine  at  night,  53.,  to  be  im- 
prisoned until  he  pays,  or  sit  in  the  stocks  for  3  hours.' 

At  20.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  Alfred  St. ;  right  on  Alfred  St.  then  left  on 
Main  St.  to  US  1  at  Biddeford  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a). 


TOUR      1C:     From  SACO  to  DUNSTAN,  9.6  m.,  State  9. 


Via  Old  Orchard  Beach  and  Pine  Point. 
Two-lane  cement  and  tar-surfaced  road. 

THIS  loop  route,  an  alternate  to  US  1  between  Saco  and  Dunstan,  skirts 
a  i4-mile  beach  and  then  crosses  marshland. 

State  9  branches  southeast  from  US  1  at  Saco  (see  Tour  1,  sec,  a),  0  m. 


256  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

At  0.9  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  local  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  CAMP  ELLIS  (alt.  20,  Saco),  4  m.,  a  beautiful  spot  on  the 
northern  bank  of  the  Saco  River  at  its  mouth,  with  a  rugged  breakwater  and  a  view 
of  Biddeford  Pool  (R)  and  the  Wood  Island  Light.  Power  boats  with  pilots  can  be 
hired  here  for  a  day's  fishing  on  the '  grounds '  (see  Sports  and  Recreation:  Salt-Water 
Fishing). 

A  squatters'  colony  has  grown  to  a  sizable  collection  of  cottages  and  shacks  here  on 
the  spit,  a  piece  of  land  made  within  the  past  10  years  by  drifting  sands  that  now 
cover  part  of  the  breakwater. 

At  1.6  m.  (R)  is  the  stone  clubhouse  of  the  Biddeford-Saco  Country  Club 
(open  to  visitors). 

At  2.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  local  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  OCEAN  PARK  (alt.  15,  Old  Orchard  Beach  Town),  0.7  m.,  a 
settlement  of  cottages  where  many  religious  organizations  hold  summer  confer- 
ences. The  Baptist  Camp  Grounds  are  left,  1.4  m.  from  the  park. 

At  3.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  Union  Ave. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  Methodist  Camp  Ground,  0.2  m.  (L),  a  natural  amphi- 
theater in  a  grove  of  old  pines.  Among  the  annual  gatherings  here  each  summer  is 
that  of  the  Salvation  Army  with  its  large  Silver  Band. 

OLD  ORCHARD  BEACH  (alt.  40,  Old  Orchard  Beach  Town,  pop. 
1620),  4  m.,  with  one  of  the  longest  beaches  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  has  been 
a  popular  resort  for  more  than  a  century.  Hotels  and  cottages  crowd 
closely  along  the  streets  branching  from  the  compactly  built-up  village. 
Roller  coaster,  fun  houses,  and  scores  of  other  concessions  are  centered 
here. 

The  Pier,  over  the  beach,  has  a  carnival  promenade,  its  eastern  side  lined 
with  confectioners'  booths,  games  of  chance,  souvenir  shops,  and  the  like. 
The  music  of  the  merry-go-round  at  the  entrance  and  the  odor  of  popping 
corn  and  frying  'hot  dogs'  are  among  the  attractions  to  many  visitors. 
Well-known  dance  bands  play  during  the  summer  months  in  the  dance 
hall  at  the  end  of  the  pier.  Because  the  Saco  town  line  passes  across  the 
pier's  end,  its  owners  pay  taxes  in  two  towns. 

Staples  Inn,  i  Portland  Ave.,  built  in  1730,  is  still  a  lodging-house  and, 
though  remodeled,  has  the  original  panels  and  doors.  The  inn  was  built 
on  land  granted  by  the  Council  of  Plymouth  to  Richard  Bonython,  one  of 
the  first  settlers. 

At  5.6  m.  (R)  is  the  R.  P.  Hazzard  Estate  (private),  one  of  the  show  places 
on  the  ocean  front  in  this  section  of  the  coast;  it  is  recognizable  by  its 
stucco  surrounding  wall  studded  with  mosaics.  The  small  flat  cement 
building  (R),  near  the  main  house,  is  a  guest  house  and  an  excellent  ex- 
ample of  modern  architecture.  All  space  has  been  utilized  without  sacri- 
fice of  line,  and  the  interior  seems  spacious.  It  is  beautifully  furnished  in 
a  restrained  modern  style. 

PINE  POINT  (alt.  15,  Scarboro  Town),  6.5  m.,  is  a  residential  settlement 

along  the  beach. 

Right  from  Pine  Point  a  road  follows  the  shore  line,  passing  summer  cottages  and, 
farther  along,  the  small  homes  of  clam  diggers  who  make  their  living  from  near-by 
clam  flats;  it  then  loops  back  to  State  9,  1  m. 


TOUR  ID:  From  Brunswick  to  Bailey  Island  257 

The  point  of  land  (R)  across  from  Pine  Point  is  PROUT'S  NECK  (see 

Tour  1,  sec.  a). 

At  Pine  Point  the  road  swings  left  and  soon  crosses  Scarboro  Marshes. 

At  9.2  m.  (R)  a  marker  indicates  the  Site  of  the  Birthplace  of  William  King, 
Maine's  first  governor  (1820). 

At  9.6  m.  State  9  rejoins  US  1  at  DUNSTAN  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a). 


TOUR     ID:    From  BRUNSWICK  to  BAILEY  ISLAND,  17 
m.,  State  24. 


Via  Great  (Sebascodegan)  and  Orr's  Islands. 
Two-lane  tar-surfaced  and  graveled  roadbed. 

THE  transition  from  the  mainland  to  the  islands,  lying  in  the  north- 
eastern part  of  Casco  Bay,  is  hardly  noticeable  because  of  the  narrowness 
of  the  channels;  the  road  runs  through  a  growth  of  pines  that  spread  a 
carpet  of  tawny  needles  to  the  edge  of  the  road.  The  rocky  ridges  along 
the  highway  terminate  in  ledges  at  the  southern  tip  of  Bailey  Island. 

State  24  branches  south  from  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  £),  0  w.  at  the  eastern 

end  of  Brunswick. 

At  0.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  123. 

Right  on  State  123,  which  runs  down  an  elongated  peninsula,  not  more  than  1.5 
miles  wide  at  any  point,  to  NORTH  HARP  SWELL  (alt.  60,  Harpswell  Town), 
6.8  m. 

HARPSWELL  CENTER  (alt.  30,  Harpswell  Town,  pop.  1364),  8.8  m.  The  Con- 
gregational Church  (L)  was  built  in  1843  f°r  Elijah  Kellogg  (1813-1901),  early 
pastor  at  Harpswell  and  author  of  several  books  for  boys.  While  the  structure  is 
fundamentally  of  the  usual  New  England  type,  the  trim  of  the  oversized  steeple 
and  the  ogee  arch  of  the  entrance  door  are  Gothic.  A  boulder  on  the  lawn  (R) 
marks  the  site  of  the  first  church,  built  in  1757.  In  the  large  old  cemetery  (R)  are 
buried  the  Reverend  Elisha  Eaton  (1702-64),  first  Harpswell  pastor,  and  his  suc- 
cessor, the  Reverend  Samuel  Eaton,  who  died  in  1822  at  86  years  of  age  and  in  the 
59th  year  of  his  ministry. 

WEST  HARPSWELL  (alt.  70,  Harpswell  Town),  12  m.,  is  a  small  village  with 
excellent  sea  views. 

SOUTH  HARPSWELL  (alt.  30,  Harpswell  Town),  14.5  m.,  offers  deep-sea  fishing 
facilities  and  boating.  The  peninsula  here  is  very  narrow,  with  summer  homes 
grouped  closely  on  barren  rock.  At  the  close  of  day  the  houses,  silhouetted  against 
a  backdrop  of  sun-glinted  sea,  form  a  striking  picture. 

At  5.3  m.  State  24  crosses  a  bridge  over  the  gurnet,  a  narrow  channel  of 
rushing  tides,  to  GREAT  ISLAND,  or  Sebascodegan,  locally  known  as 
East  Harpswell,  the  'Lost  Paradise'  of  Robert  P.  Tristram  Coffin,  poet 
and  novelist.  A  small  summer  colony  at  this  point  is  called  Gurnet. 


258  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

At  6  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  a  briar-covered  old  Cemetery,  1.5  m.  (L),  one  of  many  in  this 

section  of  the  State.  The  oldest  gravestone,  in  an  iron-fenced  plot,  bears  the  date 

September  24,  1774. 

CUNDY'S  HARBOR  (alt.  20,  Harpswell  Town),  5.2  m.,  is  a  tiny  fishing  village 

catering  to  summer  visitors  who  like  deep-sea  fishing. 

The  road  winds  through  pastures  to  Cundy's  Harbor  Beach,  6  w.,  on  a  cove  in  East 

Casco  Bay.  On  summer  holidays  and  Sundays  many  inland  families  come  here  for 

boat  trips,  camping,  clam-bakes,  and  swimming.  The  picnic  ground  is  one  of  many 

recently  developed  at  less  widely  known  beach  resorts  on  the  Maine  coast. 

At  7  m.  (L)  is  a  small  cove  in  which  graceful  seagulls  feed;  ahead  is  a  fine 
seascape. 

The  Gurnet,  11.1  m.,  a  rugged  inlet  where  incoming  and  outgoing  tides 
rush  furiously,  has  borne  its  name  at  least  200  years. 
Here  the  highway  cuts  through  a  high  cliff  of  gray  stratified  rock  to 
reach  a  short  bridge  leading  to  ORR'S  ISLAND.  The  highway,  following 
the  ridge  of  the  island  its  entire  length  of  4.5  miles,  commands  a  far- 
reaching  view  of  East  Casco  Bay  with  its  many  craggy  islands. 
The  Orr  Homestead  (private),  14  m.  (R),  a  one-and-a-half -story  yellow 
house  near  the  cemetery,  is  occupied  by  descendants  of  the  family  for 
whom  the  island  was  named. 

ORR'S  ISLAND  VILLAGE  (alt.  40,  Harpswell  Town),  14.6  m.,  a  settle- 
ment of  attractive  summer  homes,  lies  along  a  low  ridge  sloping  to  the 
shore.  Deep-sea  fishing  is  among  the  popular  summer  sports  here. 
At  15  m.  (R)  a  footpath  leads  to  a  small  white  house  near  the  shore  known 
as  the  Pearl  of  Orr' s  Island  House  (private).  This  house  is  believed  to  have 
been  the  home  of  the  heroine  of  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe's  'The  Pearl  of 
Orr's  Island.' 

South  of  the  village  the  highway  crosses  Will  Straits  on  Bailey  Island 
Bridge,  which  spans  the  narrowest  part  of  the  channel,  then  curves  to 
follow  the  line  of  a  thin  spit  to  solid  ground.  The  bridge,  considered  to  be 
one  of  great  beauty,  is  built  of  uncemented  granite  blocks  laid  honeycomb 
fashion,  similar  to  a  breakwater;  it  thus  holds  more  effectively  against 
strong  spring  ice-jams  than  would  a  rigid  structure,  and  is  kept  in  position 
by  its  own  weight.  The  tides  flow  freely  through  the  large  cells  of  '  the 
honeycomb.'  It  is  said  that  the  only  other  bridge  of  this  type  is  in  Scotland. 
BAILEY  ISLAND  (alt.  30,  Harpswell  Town),  17  m.,  is  the  southern- 
most summer  settlement  on  this  route.  Steamers  ply  between  Bailey  and 
Portland,  stopping  at  several  other  Casco  Bay  Islands.  The  Wharf  (R) 
is  the  center  of  activities,  boating  and  deep-sea  fishing  being  the  chief 
recreation  of  the  summer  residents. 

A  dirt  road  gradually  rises  for  a  mile  to  end  on  the  ledges  at  the  southern 
tip  of  the  island,  where  is  a  magnificent  view  of  the  ocean.  Mericoneag 
Sound  and  the  numerous  small  islands  of  Casco  Bay  are  seen  (R),  and  5 
miles  out  is  Halfway  Rock  Light,  so  called  because  it  is  midway  between 
Portland  Head  and  Seguin  Lights.  The  76-foot  white  granite  tower,  com- 
pleted in  1871,  appears  to  rise  abruptly  from  the  water,  Halfway  Rock  it- 
self barely  showing  above  high  tide. 


TOUR     IE:    From  BATH  to  FORT  POPHAM,  17.5  w.,  State 
209. 


Via  Winnegance,  Phippsburg,  and  Parker  Head. 
Two-lane  tar-surfaced  and  dirt  roads. 

THE  country  gradually  becomes  more  rugged  as  State  209  winds  past 
fields  and  pastures,  and  past  old  farmhouses  surrounded  by  snowball 
bushes  and  other  informal  shrubbery,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec 
River.  The  colors  of  the  wild  flowers  here  are  made  more  vivid  by  the  sea 
air. 

State  209  branches  south  from  US  1  at  Bath  (see  Tour  I,  sec.  b),  0  m. 
WINNEGANCE  (alt.  20,  City  of  Bath),  2.7  m. 
At  3  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  a  Tide  Mill,  0.4  m.,  which  until  1935  was  used  for  cutting 
lumber.  This  old  structure  is  a  primitive  forerunner  of  the  mills  and  factories 
planned  as  part  of  the  Passamaquoddy  Power  Project. 

At  4.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  a  dwelling  at  1.6  m.,  to  the  rear  of  which  is  the  Site  of  Fort 
Noble,  a  stronghold  built  in  1734.  It  faced  down  river  to  the  wide  waters  at  the 
southern  end  of  Fiddlers  Beach,  forming  an  important  defense  of  the  Kennebec. 

South  of  this  point  open  fields  and  farmlands  are  less  frequent,  the  road 
running  through  woods  that  thin  at  intervals,  giving  glimpses  of  the  river. 

At  5.9  m.  is  an  exceptional  view  of  the  Kennebec  (L);  the  white-spired 
Phippsburg  church  is  visible,  standing  out  against  a  green  background. 

PHIPPSBURG  CENTER  (alt.  20,  Phippsburg  Town,  pop.  801),  7.1  m. 
On  the  left  side  of  the  village  street  is  the  James  McCobb  House  (private), 
built  in  1774,  with  a  beautifully  paneled  interior.  The  hinges  and  bull's- 
eye  glass  of  the  entrance  door  are  of  interest  to  antiquarians.  The  town's 
first  post  office  was  established  in  the  kitchen  of  this  house,  built  by  James 
McCobb,  shipbuilder  and  trader.  An  old  black  walnut  tree  and  three  old 
lindens  in  the  yard  are  noteworthy.  Near-by  is  the  site  of  Spite  House, 
which  was  removed  to  Rockport  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b). 

Right  from  Phippsburg  Center  on  State  216;  on  the  western  shore  of  a  small  lake, 
0.7  m.,  (R)  is  a  hillside,  where  in  1935  Indian  skeletons  were  uncovered  during 
road-building  operations. 

Right  from  State  216  at  5.4  m.  on  a  dirt  road  (sign,  Aliquippa  House)  to  the  Site  of 
Ancient  Augusta,  6.3  m.,  a  fishing  village  established  on  Casco  Bay  in  1 716.  Hidden 
in  juniper  and  bayberry  growth  on  a  knoll  are  the  scattered  bricks  of  a  fort,  built  in 
1716,  by  Dr.  Oliver  Noyes  and  his  men  as  a  protection  against  Indians.  An 
enormous  pit  near-by  may  have  been  covered  and  used  as  a  refuge  or  as  a  store- 
house. The  settlement  remained  until  about  1821. 

At  7.5  m.  (L)  stands  an  old  brick  store  at  the  head  of  a  former  shipyard 
erected  in  1806  by  the  McCobb  family.  The  last  square  rigger  built  here 


260  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

slid  down  the  ways  in  1893.  Formal  launchings  came  into  fashion  on  the 
peninsula  in  1904,  when  engraved  invitations  were  sent  out  for  the  debut 
of  the  five-master  'Marcus  L.  Urann.' 

PARKER  HEAD  (alt.  30,  Phippsburg  Town),  11  m.,  with  small  well- 
kept  houses  along  its  rough  steep  highway,  was  named  for  one  of  the 
pioneers  who  settled  here  about  1645.  Clam  flats  along  the  shore  provide 
the  general  means  of  livelihood. 

At  12.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  Cox's  Head,  jutting  into  the  Kennebec,  0.9  m.  (private  prop- 
erty), a  huge  rock  formation  topped  at  the  southern  end  by  a  ridge  of  earthworks 
built  in  1812.  Enthusiastic  young  recruits,  who  had  expected  to  shoulder  muskets 
on  the  battlefield,  found  themselves  resentfully  pushing  wheelbarrows  of  earth 
up  the  steep  incline  to  build  the  fortification. 

Passing  through  a  lovely  stretch  of  woods,  the  road,  bordered  in  summer 
by  marsh  grass  and  occasional  clumps  of  purple  iris  or  yellow  lilies,  soon 
reaches  the  sea. 

At  15.9  m.  (R),  a  few  yards  from  the  highway,  ocean  rollers  break  on  a 
wide  beach  that  still  has  few  summer  cottages  and  little  resort  develop- 
ment. Sea  winds  have  carved  the  sands  into  high  dunes,  now  overgrown 
with  bayberry  bushes. 

At  16.5  m.  (L)  is  the  entrance  to  Fort  Baldwin  (open),  a  U.S.  fortification 
whose  armament  was  removed  and  whose  45-acre  tract  was  purchased  by 
the  State  in  1924.  Its  three  batteries,  built  (1905-12)  into  the  wooded 
side  of  Sabino  Hill,  are  now  cracked  and  broken.  The  batteries,  named 
respectively  for  Patrick  Cogan  and  John  Hardman,  officers  in  the 
Revolutionary  Army,  and  Joseph  Hawley,  Brigadier  General  in  the  Civil 
War,  were  garrisoned  during  the  World  War. 

The  State  reservation  includes  the  Site  of  the  Popham  Colony  (R),  between 
the  entrance  gate  and  the  shore.  The  information  obtained  by  Sir  John 
Popham,  and  particularly  by  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges,  from  the  Indians, 
who  had  been  kidnaped  and  carried  to  England  by  Waymouth  in  1605 
(see  Tour  I/),  prompted  them  to  finance  a  settlement  on  the  shores  of 
Maine.  Acting  under  the  Virginia  Company  Patent,  Gorges  sent  out  an 
expedition  in  1606  under  Captain  Henry  Challons;  he  disobeyed  orders, 
however,  sailing  too  far  south,  and  was  captured  by  the  Spanish,  This  did 
not  dampen  the  enthusiasm  of  Gorges;  largely  through  his  activities,  a 
second  set  of  colonists  was  sent  out  in  the  following  year  on  the  '  Gift  of 
God,'  commanded  by  George  Popham,  and  on  the  'Mary  and  John,'  com- 
manded by  Raleigh  Gilbert.  The  ships  touched  at  Nova  Scotia  but  sailed 
south  to  the  country  recommended  by  Waymouth  and,  on  August  19, 
1607  (O.S.),  landed  at  this  place.  The  group  was  hastily  organized  with 
Popham  as  president,  the  land  laid  out,  and  Fort  St.  George,  a  barracks,  a 
chapel,  storehouses,  and  houses  were  built.  Immediately  afterward  the 
colonists  built  a  boat  of  about  30  tons,  described  in  the  records  as  '  a  pretty 
pynnace,'  naming  it  the  'Virginia.'  The  careful  manner  in  which  Gorges 
selected  the  colonists,  including  among  them  capable  craftsmen,  should 


TOUR  IF:   From  Woolwich  to  Five  Islands  261 

have  made  the  settlement  successful,  but  the  winter  was  unusually  severe 
and  George  Popham,  an  elderly  man,  and  a  number  of  the  settlers  died. 
In  the  following  spring  when  one  of  the  ships,  which  had  gone  to  England 
for  supplies,  returned,  it  brought  word  that  a  financial  backer  of  the  ex- 
pedition, Sir  John  Popham,  had  died;  the  next  ship  brought  word  that 
Raleigh  Gilbert's  brother  had  also  died,  an  event  forcing  Raleigh  Gilbert's 
return.  Deprived  of  leadership  and  faced  with  the  prospect  of  another 
hard  winter,  the  settlers  lost  heart  and  sailed  for  England  in  September, 
1608. 

POPHAM  BEACH  (alt.  15,  Phippsburg  Town),  17.2  m.,  is  the  center  of  a 
group  of  weather-beaten  houses  extending  for  half  a  mile  across  the  point 
between  the  Kennebec  River  and  the  ocean.  The  settlement,  facing  two 
low  barren  islands  known  as  the  Sugar  Loaves,  with  Seguin  Light  beyond 
them,  has  been  an  active  summer  colony  since  1890. 
Transportation  can  be  arranged  to  Seguin  Island  Light  (open),  highest 
light  above  the  sea  on  the  Maine  coast,  which  stands  on  an  island  off  the 
mouth  of  the  Kennebec.  The  original  38-foot  tower  was  built  in  1795 
during  President  Washington's  administration.  The  present  tower  (1857), 
53  ft.  high,  stands  180  ft.  above  high  tide. 

Rough  waters  between  Popham  and  Seguin  keep  the  Kennebec  River 
Coast  Guard  Station  (R)  busy  during  bad  weather. 

Fort  Popham  (open  until  8  P.M.),  17.5  m.,  an  impressive  granite  and  brick 
structure  erected  in  1861  but  never  completed,  has  been  a  State  reserva- 
tion since  1924.  It  was  garrisoned  in  1865-66,  again  in  1898,  and  men 
were  stationed  here  during  the  World  War.  Built  in  the  shape  of  a  half- 
moon,  the  outer  curve  is  a  30-foot  wall  of  granite  blocks  pierced  for 
musketry.  Within  the  arc  is  a  parade  ground.  A  fine  spiral  staircase  at 
each  end  of  the  fort  leads  to  upper  tiers.  The  top  of  the  structure  com- 
mands a  sweeping  view  up  the  Kennebec  in  one  direction  and  seaward  in 
another. 

Fort  Popham  Light  is  at  the  southern  side  of  the  fort.  The  white  pyramidal 
bell  tower,  its  top  27  feet  above  high  water,  is  visible  7  miles  at  sea. 


TOUR      IF:     From  WOOLWICH  to  FIVE  ISLANDS,  15.3  m., 
State  127. 


Via  Arrowsic  and  Georgetown. 
Two-lane  dirt  road. 

STATE  127  runs  over  a  series  of  heavily  wooded  islands  from  whose  hills 
are  views  of  Sheepscot  Bay  and  other  islands,  large  and  small.   In  the 


262  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

days  when  shipping  was  important  on  the  Kennebec,  many  of  the  in- 
habitants of  these  islands  sailed  the  seven  seas;  today  agriculture,  fishing, 
and  clam  digging  combine  to  provide  a  livelihood  for  the  people,  who  still 
live  much  as  their  fathers  did,  using  kerosene  lamps,  hand  pumps,  and 
other  out-moded  appliances. 

State  127  swings  south  from  Woolwich  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b),  0  m. 

The  Drawbridge,  0.6  m.,  carrying  the  route  across  the  Sasanoa  River  to 
Arrowsic  Island,  had  until  recently  a  toll  gate. 

The  ebb  tide  of  the  Kennebec,  which  returns  much  more  slowly  than  does 
the  tide  of  the  Sasanoa,  meets  the  ebb  tide  of  the  Sasanoa  at  Hell  Gate,  1.5 
m.  left  of  this  bridge,  in  Sheepscot  Bay.  Great  skill  is  needed  to  bring 
a  boat  up  against  this  tide,  reefs  and  shoals  adding  to  the  hazards. 

At  2.2  m.  the  road  bears  L.  through  growths  of  spreading  maples  and  silver 
birches. 

The  Stinson  Farm  House  (private),  3.2m.,  built  in  1751  by  John  Stinson,  a 
magistrate  of  Yorkshire  (now  York  County),  stands  back  from  the  road 
(L)  in  a  pine-fringed  field.  Only  one  room  in  the  weather-beaten  structure 
has  the  original  hand-hewn  paneling. 

Left  from  the  Stinson  House  on  a  footpath  to  Hockomock  Point,  0.2  m.,  the  site  of 
the  Clark  and  Lake  settlement  in  1650.  Clark  and  Lake  conducted  a  trading  enter- 
prise, placing  groups  of  settlers  in  favorable  situations  to  trade  with  the  Indians. 
They  bought  Arrowsic  Island  in  1654,  and  during  the  following  year  built  several 
dwellings,  a  warehouse,  and  a  large  barracks  within  a  fortified  enclosure.  It  was  in 
their  shipyard  on  this  point  that  Sir  William  Phips  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b)  worked  as  an 
apprentice.  There  were  30  families  here  in  1670.  Six  years  later  the  Indians 
burned  all  the  settlements  on  the  island.  Cellar  holes,  overgrown  by  bushes,  mark 
the  places  where  the  early  houses  stood. 

ARROWSIC  (alt.  25,  Arrowsic  Town,  pop.  135),  6.3  m.,  is  marked  by  the 
Town  House  (R).  Houses  of  the  township  are  scattered,  the  oldest  being 
on  the  shores  of  coves;  others,  plain  little  structures  with  their  barns  con- 
nected by  sheds,  are  near  the  road. 

At  7.5  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  old  Denny  Cemetery,  2.9  m.  (R),  nearly  concealed  by 
bushes,  birches,  and  apple  trees.  Slate  markers  date  back  to  1729.  Samuel  Denny, 
an  Englishman,  built  a  blockhouse  near  this  cemetery  in  1728.  An  educated  man, 
he  acted  as  judge  and  bailiff,  and  the  stocks  in  which  he  imprisoned  offenders  were 
still  standing  in  1800. 

Here,  overlooking  the  Kennebec  River,  stood  the  old  church  mentioned  in  Arnold's 
report  of  his  journey  up  the  Kennebec  to  Quebec  (see  Tour  11).  The  river  and 
Phippsburg  Center  are  clearly  visible  from  the  open  field  where  the  church  once 
stood. 

The  Watts'  Garrison,  3.1  m.  (R),  on  Butler's  Cove,  was  a  brick  structure  sur- 
rounded by  homes.  The  garrison  was  built  by  John  Watts  of  Boston  in  1714  and 
the  town  of  Georgetown  was  incorporated  in  1716  with  this  nucleus.  All  that  re- 
mains of  the  settlement  is  a  row  of  cellar  holes  with  raspberry  bushes  growing  up 
through  a  few  decaying  hand-hewn  timbers  containing  hand-wrought  nails. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill,  3.3  m.,  near  the  river,  are  two  old,"rambling  one-and-a-half- 
story  buildings,  crumbling  and  vacant,  their  doors  swinging  with  the  winds,  re- 
minders of  the  general  desertion  of  these  once  busy  lands. 


TOUR  IF:   From  Woolwich  to  Five  Islands  263 

Near-by  (L),  on  what  is  now  an  island  but  which  was  once  Squirrel  Point,  is  a 
Ruined  House,  the  only  visible  remains  of  the  prosperous  fishing  settlement  estab- 
lished by  John  Parker  in  1629. 

At  8  m.  a  steel  bridge  crosses  Back  River  to  the  island  of  Georgetown, 
early  known  as  Parker's  Island. 

GEORGETOWN  VILLAGE  (alt.  60,  Georgetown  Town,  pop.  361),  11.9 
m.  Here  are  the  general  store,  post  office,  town  house,  and  near-by  the 
two  bridges  that  cross  Robinhood  Cove. 

This  township  lies  on  hilly  islands;  the  gradual  settling  of  the  continental 
terrain  is  very  noticeable  here.  Stretches  of  marshland,  formerly  flooded 
only  at  high  tide,  are  now  waterways,  navigable  by  small  craft,  even  at  low 
tide.  Patches  of  land  are  at  intervals  cut  off,  more  islands  being  created. 

The  shore  line,  where  dulse,  an  edible  seaweed,  grows,  is  very  rugged. 
Doubtless  it  was  from  such  rocks  as  these  that  Moncacht-Ape,  a  Yazoo 
Indian,  nearly  three  centuries  ago  gazed  for  the  first  time  upon  the  great 
waters,  fascinated  and  terrified  by  their  expanse  and  their  roaring  as  they 
lashed  against  the  ledges  only  to  fall  back  each  time  in  huge  billows  of 
spent  foam.  An  account  written  in  French  relates  how  this  red  man  had 
traveled  from  the  lower  Mississippi  Valley  to  the  east  coast  seeking  the 
place  of  origin  of  the  North  American  Indians.  The  story  is  told  of  his 
first  sight  of  'the  Big  Water.' 

When  I  saw  it  I  was  so  glad  I  could  not  speak.  My  eyes  seemed  too  little  to 

see  it  all.   But  the  night  came The  water  was  close  to  us,  but  below. 

The  wind  was  big  and  I  think  it  made  the  Big  Water  angry.  It  made  so 
much  noise  I  could  not  sleep.  I  was  afraid  the  blows  made  by  the  Big 

Water  on  our  high  place  would  break  it,  though  it  was  made  of  rocks I 

was  a  long  time  without  speaking  to  my  friend.  To  see  me  always  looking 
and  never  speaking  he  thought  I  had  lost  my  mind.  I  could  not  understand 
where  all  this  could  come  from.  The  wind  went  away  before  the  sun  came 
up  and  the  Big  Water  was  not  as  angry  as  it  had  been.  I  was  surprised  to  see 
it  coming  back  to  us.  That  made  me  afraid.  I  got  up  and  ran  as  fast  as  I  could. 
My  friend  called  to  me  that  I  had  nothing  to  fear. . . .  He  said  Red  Men  had 
seen  the  Big  Water  and  that  it  was  always  traveling,  sometimes  going  away, 
sometimes  coming  back.  But  he  said  it  never  came  nearer  the  land  at  one 

time  than  another We  went  away  so  we  could  sleep  far  away  from  this 

noise  which  followed  me  everywhere.  Until  evening  I  did  not  speak  of  any- 
thing else  to  my  friend. 

FIVE  ISLANDS  (alt.  40,  Georgetown  Town),  15.3  m.,  has  small  boat  con- 
nections with  Bath.  This  popular  residential  village,  with  a  good  harbor, 
is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sheepscot  River;  its  unpretentious  summer  homes 
are  built  along  the  highway  and  rocky  shore.  A  short  beach  (R)  is  a 
favorite  spot  for  clambakes,  and  the  little  dance  hall  is  a  busy  place  when 
an  occasional  cruise  of  Boston  yacht  clubs  brings  a  number  of  visitors  to 
the  harbor  at  'Five'  for  a  night.  From  the  wharf,  the  center  of  village 
life,  private  speedboats  ply  back  and  forth  between  the  sparsely  settled 
and  privately  owned  small  islands  near-by. 


TOUR      1  G  :     From  JUNCTION  WITH  US   1  to  SOUTH- 
PORT,  13.4  m.,  Local  road  and  State  27. 


Via  Edgecomb  and  Boothbay  Harbor. 
One  year-round  hotel  at  Boothbay  Harbor. 
Tarred  and  gravel  roadbeds. 

THIS  route,  skirting  coves  and  inlets,  runs  down  the  peninsula,  through 
fishing  villages  and  the  large  resort  area  of  Boothbay  Harbor. 

An  improved,  unnumbered  road  branches  south  from  US  1  at  the  eastern 
end  of  Wiscasset  bridge  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b),  0  m. 

At  0.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  obscure  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  dirt  road  to  Fort  Edgecomb,  (grounds  open,  though  not  the  block-house) 
0.4  m.  The  grounds  adjoining  this  octagonal  wooden  blockhouse  command  an 
exceptionally  fine  view  of  the  Sheepscot  River,  with  the  long  island  of  Westport  in 
the  foreground.  Constructed  in  1808-09  °f  heavy  wooden-pegged  square  timbers 
of  pine  and  ash  from  near-by  forests,  the  building  is  well  preserved.  The  first  story, 
27  feet  wide  and  pierced  for  musketry,  is  overhung  by  a  second  story  30  feet  wide 
with  i2-foot  posting,  having  square  portholes  and  heavily  shuttered  windows. 
The  narrow  slits  in  the  high  tower  were  used  by  lookouts.  The  stockade  and 
parade  grounds  have  been  obliterated,  but  the  earthworks  and  the  remains  of  the 
gun  emplacements  are  still  visible.  The  heavy  armaments,  consisting  of  four  18- 
pounder  guns  and  one  5o-pounder  gun,  were  removed  in  1816,  never  having  been 
used  in  an  engagement. 

NORTH  EDGECOMB  (alt.  50,  Edgecomb  Town),  0.8  m.,  is  a  small 
settlement  of  white  houses,  with  lawns  extending  to  the  tree-shaded  bank 
of  the  Sheepscot. 

Left,  opposite  the  post  office,  on  the  high  riverbank  is  the  Marie  Antoinette 
House  (visited  at  convenience  of  owner).  This  structure,  built  in  1774  by 
Captain  Joseph  Decker  on  Squam  Island,  from  which  it  was  much  later 
brought  to  this  spot,  was  inherited  by  Decker's  daughter,  the  wife  of 
Samuel  Clough,  captain  of  a  merchantman  that  frequently  visited 
France.  In  1793  the  captain  became  engaged  in  an  enterprise,  the  details 
of  which  are  somewhat  obscure.  According  to  romantics  he  was  moved  by 
the  unfortunate  situation  of  the  imprisoned  Queen  of  France  to  attempt 
her  rescue  with  the  aid  of  her  friends;  it  seems  clear,  however,  that  he  was 
merely  hired  by  them  to  carry  her  to  America  on  the  'Sally'  when  they 
had  managed  to  effect  her  release.  Some  of  her  personal  belongings  and 
various  articles  that  her  "friends  thought  might  make  her  home  in  exile 
more  comfortable  and  furnish  it  in  a  style  befitting  her  rank  were  smuggled 
aboard  the  Yankee  ship.  The  plan,  however,  like  others  with  the  same 
purpose,  failed;  the  queen  was  beheaded  and  Captain  Clough  set  sail 
hastily  to  escape  possible  punishment  for  his  share  in  the  enterprise.  In 
the  meantime  the  captain  had  written  to  his  wife  to  give  her  warning  of 
the  guest  she  might  expect  to  have  for  a  time,  carefully  trying  to  reconcile 


TOUR  1G:   From  Junction  with  US  1  to  Southport        265 

her  to  the  dismaying  idea  of  sheltering  royalty.  He  doubtless  found  his 
home  polished  and  shining  when  he  at  last  arrived  —  without  the  queen. 
The  captain  stored  the  queen's  possessions  in  his  home;  some  thought 
this  was  because  of  a  personal  devotion  to  her,  but  it  seems  more  likely 
that  his  Yankee  conscience  made  him  uneasy  about  his  right  to  dispose  of 
the  goods  that  had  come  into  his  possession  in  such  an  irregular  manner. 
Gradually,  as  time  passed  and  no  one  came  to  claim  the  cargo,  the  furnish- 
ings came  into  use  in  the  large,  plain,  square  house,  now  standing  in  North 
Edgecomb.  Many  stories  are  told  of  their  later  uses  and  wanderings.  It  is 
said  that  a  satin  robe,  worn  by  the  King  of  France  on  state  occasions,  was 
in  time  made  into  a  dress  by  Mrs.  Clough.  A  Wiscasset  clockmaker  dis- 
covered in  the  interior  of  an  old  clock  a  plate  inscribed  in  French  indicat- 
ing that  the  timepiece  had  been  presented  by  the  maker  to  the  Queen  on 
the  Dauphin's  birthday.  Other  mementoes  are  at  the  Metropolitan 
Museum  of  Art  in  New  York;  a  few  articles  still  remain  in  the  Clough 
House. 

There  is  a  legend  that  Talleyrand  and  Marie  Antoinette's  son,  the 
Dauphin  of  France,  were  passengers  on  the  return  voyage  of  the  '  Sally ' 
and  that  both  were  guests  at  the  Clough  House  for  some  time. 

It  is  Captain  Clough  who  is  given  credit  for  having  introduced  coon  cats 
into  Maine.  He  is  said  to  have  brought  a  cat  home  with  him  from  some 
Chinese  port,  and  that  the  present-day  coon  cats,  seldom  seen  except  on 
this  coast,  are  descendants  of  this  cat  and  one  of  the  usual  domestic  breed. 
Local  sages  insist  that  the  cat  is  a  hybrid  descendant  of  a  house  cat  of 
China,  Me.,  who  mated  with  a  wild  raccoon,  but  the  theory  has  no 
scientific  backing.  The  coon  cats,  quite  gentle  and  fragile,  have  long, 
frosty-gray  hair;  they  are  difficult  to  rear,  being  particularly  susceptible 
to  pneumonia,  but  some  people  have  a  profitable  business  raising  them 
for  sale. 

At  1.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  27;  right  on  State  27. 

EDGECOMB  (alt.  50,  Edgecomb  Town,  pop.  367),  3.4  m.,  was  formerly 
the  home  of  the  Wawenock  Indians,  who  fished  on  the  shores  with  bone- 
tipped  spears  and  crude  fishhooks  of  bone.  The  town  was  settled  and  in- 
corporated in  1774.  In  1850  it  had  a  population  of  1231,  but  the  decrease 
since  that  time  has  been  constant.  There  are  few  houses  in  the  village, 
most  of  the  inhabitants  living  on  farms  some  distance  apart. 

The  tradition  that  elderly  Samuel  Trask,  one  of  the  settlers  of  Edgecomb, 
was  once  a  member  of  Captain  Kidd's  crew  has  furnished  grounds  for 
intermittent  treasure  hunting  in  this  neighborhood.  When  Kidd  was 
arrested  and  hanged,  his  estate  was  very  small,  giving  rise  to  many  stories 
of  treasure  buried  by  him,  or  by  his  crew  for  him.  Edgecomb  gossips  said 
that  Trask  had  been  one  of  those  delegated  to  hide  part  of  the  booty  and 
that  it  had  been  buried  near  his  clearing  in  Edgecomb.  Since  Kidd  died 
in  1701  and  Trask  did  not  come  to  this  neighborhood  till  1774,  such 
treasure,  had  it  been  trusted  to  a  boy,  would  have  had  a  long  period  of 
travel. 


266  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

BOOTHBAY  (alt.  80,  Boothbay  Town,  pop.  1345),  9.6  m.,  thought  to 
have  had  a  settlement  in  1630,  was  first  known  as  Newagen,  and  then  as 
Townshend.  It  has  an  old  Meeting-House  (R)  of  early  American  design, 
with  an  old  Cemetery  in  the  rear.  A  new  Summer  Theater  in  Boothbay  adds 
to  its  importance  as  a  summer  recreational  center. 

At  11  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  gravel  road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  EAST  BOOTHBAY  (alt.  30,  Boothbay  Town),  2. 7m.,  a.  small 
fishing  village  and  summer  resort.  A  Tide  Mill  in  the  village  is  still  used  for  cutting 
lumber  after  a  century  of  service. 

OCEAN  POINT  (alt.  20,  Boothbay  Town),  6.4  m.,  has  steamer  connections 
(variable  schedule,  apply  at  wharf)  with  Bath. 

The  weather-beaten  effect  of  the  summer  cottages  on  this  exposed  point  of  land  is 
prized  by  the  owners,  who  came  here  for  the  sea  views  and  exhilarating  air. 

BOOTHBAY  HARBOR  (alt.  40,  Boothbay  Harbor  Town,  pop.  2076), 
11.4  m. 

Accommodations.  All  types. 

Steamers  and  Boats.  There  is  ferry  service  from  Boothbay  Harbor  to  Squirrel 
Island,  and  steamer  service  to  Monhegan  Island  (see  Island  Trips).  Sailboats 
and  motorboats  for  fishing  and  other  purposes  for  hire  at  wharves,  with  or  without 
skipper. 

Annual  event.  Regatta  third  Fri.  in  Aug.,  sail  and  power  boats,  headquarters 
Boothbay  Harbor  Clubhouse. 

This  town  is  one  of  the  most  popular  resorts  on  the  coast;  in  addition  to 
the  summer  residents  and  usual  visitors,  a  number  of  artists  and  parents, 
whose  children  are  in  near-by  camps,  come  here  annually.  Because  of  its 
summer  importance  the  population  of  the  town  has  gradually  increased 
since  it  was  separated  from  Boothbay  and  incorporated  in  1889.  The 
settlement,  however,  knew  early  days  of  prosperity,  first  as  a  trading  cen- 
ter and  later  as  a  port  and  scene  of  shipbuilding.  Well-kept  homes  line  the 
few  streets  and  the  main  street,  sloping  down  to  the  wharves  on  the 
harbor,  is  lined  with  little  shops  that  are  busy  all  summer. 

The  harbor  during  the  vacation  season  is  a  busy  place,  with  small  sail- 
boats and  outboard  motorboats  slipping  about  between  the  mahogany  and 
grass-trimmed  yachts.  The  down-east  coasting  schooner,  mourned  by 
lovers  of  the  sea  as  gone  forever  has  taken  a  new  lease  on  life  in  the  trans- 
portation of  pulpwood  to  Maine  paper  mills.  While  this  type  of  shipping 
is  not  as  profitable  as  that  of  the  small  coasting  vessel  of  the  old  days,  it 
provides  a  living  for  the  skipper  and  his  small  crew.  These  schooners, 
mostly  two-masted,  are  beginning  to  be  a  common  sight  again  in  ports 
all  along  the  Maine  coast. 

A  favorite  tale  of  the  fishermen  along  the  harbor  here  is  of  Luther  Mad- 
docks  and  his  whale.  In  1885  Maddocks  decided  that  the  exhibition  of  a 
whale  at  a  Grand  Army  of  the  Republic  reunion  in  Portland  would  be 
profitable.  Capturing  a  6o-foot  humpbacked  whale,  he  towed  it  at  high 
tide  over  a  scow  he  had  ingeniously  weighted  to  a  reef  with  rocks.  When 
the  tide  receded,  Maddocks  removed  the  rocks,  bailed  out  the  water,  and 
waited  for  another  tide  to  lift  his  load.  He  towed  his  catch  into  Portland 


TOUR  1H:   From  Damariscotta  to  Pemaquid  Point         267 

Harbor,  and,  after  a  heated  argument  with  the  mayor,  won  the  right  to 
exhibit  it,  realizing  $800  by  the  venture.  He  then  sold  the  carcass  for 
$150  to  a  company  that  wanted  the  hide  and  blubber.  The  company, 
having  profited  by  the  venture,  sent  the  remains  out  to  sea  where  it  sank. 
Unfortunately,  gas  had  begun  to  generate  in  it,  and  it  soon  floated  in- 
shore, to  the  annoyance  of  the  inhabitants,  who  towed  it  out  again.  But 
the  remains  floated  back  in.  The  performance  was  repeated  several  times, 
though  it  was  once  lashed  temporarily  to  a  rocky  islet.  At  length  it  came 
ashore  at  Old  Orchard  Beach,  where  another  Yankee  decided  to  profit  by 
it;  he  exhibited  the  foul  bulk  as  a  'sea-serpent'  and  special  excursions 
were  made  from  various  points  to  view  it.  The  directors  of  a  Middle  West 
museum  that  was  building  up  a  collection  eventually  heard  about  it  and 
purchased  the  bones. 

At  12.9  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  gravel  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  a  U.S.  Fish  Hatchery  and  Aquarium  (open  8-6),  1.2  m.,  at 
McKown's  Point.  It  was  established  in  1903  for  the  conservation  of  marine  life. 
The  raising  of  flounders  has  supplanted  the  hatching  of  cod  and  lobsters.  Eggs 
secured  in  the  spring  are  placed  in  containers  through  which  salt  water,  pumped  by 
electricity  and  steam,  runs  continuously  during  the  three  weeks'  hatching  period. 
The  aquarium  has,  among  other  exhibits,  marine  growths,  crabs,  giant  lobsters, 
and  rays.  A  large  colony  of  seals  is  kept  near  the  wharf. 

SOUTHPORT  (alt.  40,  Southport  Town,  pop.  412),  13.4  m.,  has  steamer 
service  to  Boothbay  Harbor  and  Bath.  This  widespread  village  catering 
to  summer  visitors  is  on  a  heavily  wooded  island  separated  from  the 
mainland  by  a  narrow  channel. 


TOUR     1  H  :  From  DAMARISCOTTA  to  PEMAQUID  POINT, 
15.8  m.,  State  129  and  State  130. 


Via  Bristol,  Pemaquid,  and  New  Harbor. 

Gravel  road  with  short  stretches  of  tarred  surface. 

SUPERB  coastal  scenery  is  offered  by  this  route,  which  winds  through 
small  fishing  hamlets,  never  far  distant  from  the  white  surf.  Here  is  seen 
the  'rock-bound  coast  of  Maine'  in  all  its  beauty,  with  the  waves  flung 
high.  In  summer  white  sails  always  dot  the  stretches  of  open  water. 

State  129  branches  south  from  Damariscotta  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b),  0  m. 
At  3  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  130  which  the  main  route  follows. 

Right  on  State  129  is  WALPOLE  (alt.  40,  South  Bristol  Town),  3  m.,  a  settlement 
of  a  half  dozen  houses  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Damariscotta  River.  The  Old 
Presbyterian  Church  (services  in  July  and  Aug.)  was  built  in  1772  on  the  site  of  a 
church  erected  in  1 766.  Huge  clumps  of  lilacs  surround  the  white,  green-shuttered 


268  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

structure.  The  church  resembles  an  ordinary  two-and-a-half-story  dwelling.  Its 
ancient  high-backed  pews  were  accorded  the  dignity  of  paint  for  the  first  time  in 
1872,  when  repairs  were  made.  The  Bible  lying  on  the  heavy  carved  pulpit,  sur- 
mounted by  a  sounding  board,  is  dated  1793.  A  spacious  gallery  extends  along 
three  walls. 

At  7  m.  is  the  Wawenock  Golf  Clubhouse  (greens  fee  $1.50;  meals  served). 

SOUTH  BRISTOL  (alt.  80,  S.  Bristol  Town,  pop.  563),  13.5  m.,  formerly  shipping 
out  fish  in  considerable  quantities,  is  now  largely  dependent  on  summer  visitors  for 
a  livelihood.  The  village,  lying  on  an  island  —  a  fact  difficult  for  those  unfamiliar 
with  the  coast  to  realize,  draws  many  people  back  year  after  year  for  the  sake  of  the 
views  of  shining  ocean  and  picturesque  islands. 

CHRISTMAS  COVE  (alt.  25,  S.  Bristol  Town),  15.1  m.,  is  visited  by  coastal 
steamers  (variable  service;  apply  at  wharf).  This  place  was  so  named  by  Captain 
John  Smith  when  he  brought  his  ship  to  anchor  here  on  Christmas  Day,  1614.  It 
is  one  of  the  '  25  excellent  good  Harbors;  In  many  whereof  there  is  ancorage  for  500 
sayle  of  ships  of  any  burthen:  in  some  of  them  for  5000:  And  more  than  200  lies  over- 
growne  with  good  timber,  of  divers  sorts  of  wood,  which  do  make  so  many  harbors 
as  require th  a  longer  time  than  I  had,  to  be  well  discovered,'  on  which  he  reported 
after  the  voyage.  It  was  Smith's  report  that  helped  to  keep  up  the  faith  of  Gorges 
in  the  possibilities  of  the  land;  Smith  had  announced  that  he  would  rather  live  in 
Maine  than  anywhere  else,  adding  that  if  a  colony  there  could  not  maintain  itself, 
even  if  indifferently  equipped,  it  ought  to  be  allowed  to  starve. 

The  main  route  here  follows  State  130. 
At  5  m.  (L)  is  an  attractive  Camp  Site. 

BRISTOL  (alt.  100,  Bristol  Town,  pop.  1413),  5.9  m.,  its  homes  built 
along  the  highway  on  a  side  hill,  is  known  as  The  Mills.  Midway,  on  the 
rising  slope  (R),  a  modern  cemetery,  with  monuments  of  polished  marble, 
looks  down  on  an  earlier  burying  ground  and  the  ruins  of  an  old  sawmill 
(L)  at  the  foot  of  the  hill. 

On  the  west  side  of  Bristol  St.  has  been  placed  a  stone  that  helped  form  the 
walls  of  the  little  garrison  in  which  the  settlers  of  this  region  gathered  to 
escape  the  Indians.  Near  this  spot  in  the  i73o's  two  young  girls  were  shot 
down  by  Indians  as  they  were  going  out  to  milk  the  cows. 

PEMAQUID  (alt.  60,  Bristol  Town),  10.5  m. 

The  Harrington  Burial  Ground  (R)  is  the  largest  cemetery  in  this  old 
section  of  Bristol.  Many  odd  epitaphs  are  inscribed  on  the  lichened 
gravestones,  which  reveal  here  and  there  the  blurred  names  of  early 
settlers,  arid  dates  as  early  as  1716. 

At  12.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  PEMAQUID  BEACH  (alt.  20,  Bristol  Town),  1  m.,  which 
has  steamer  connections  (variable  schedules,  apply  at  wharf)  with  near-by  shore 
villages.  This  is  a  fishing  and  resort  village.  The  sandy  beach,  though  short  and 
narrow,  is  unusual  on  this  long  stretch  of  rocky  coast. 

The  earliest  history  of  Pemaquid  is  found  in  occasional  references  in  the  journals  of 
early  explorers.  It  was  visited  by  David  Ingram  (see  below)  in  1569,  by  Captain 
Bartholomew  Gosnold  in  1602,  by  Raleigh  Gilbert  (see  Tour  IE)  in  May,  1607,  and 
by  Captain  Thomas  Dermer  in  1619. 

Captain  John  Smith  of  Virginia,  in  describing  his  visit  to  Monhegan  in  1614,  said 
that  opposite  Monhegan  'in  the  Maine'  in  a  port  called  Pemaquid,  was  a  ship  of 
Sir  Francis  Popham  whose  people  had'used  the  port  for  'many  years.'  The  Sieur 
de  Monts,  who,  with  Champlain,  explored  this  coast  in  1605,  mentioned  that 


TOUR  1H:   From  Damariscotta  to  Pemaquid  Point      269 

settlements  then  existed  in  this  vicinity.  It  seems  probable  that  a  group  of  Bristol 
(England)  merchants  maintained  a  fishing  and  trading  center  with  a  resident  agent 
here  as  early  as  1600  and  more  certainly  in  the  following  decade.  The  history  of  the 
200  cellars  (see  below)  and  paved  streets  is  not  satisfactorily  explained  even  by 
legend. 

The  first  fort  at  Pemaquid,  then  called  Jamestown,  was  a  stockade  named  Smart's 
Fort,  built  about  1630.  The  fort  and  settlement  were  destroyed  by  Indians  or 
pirates  in  1689.  Fort  Charles  was  built  in  1677  by  order  of  Governor  Edmund 
Andros  of  New  York;  it  was  two  stories  high,  with  a  stockade.  The  extensive,  well- 
equipped  Fort  William  Henry,  built  in  1692,  was  destroyed  in  1696  by  the  French 
under  Baron  de  Castin.  Fort  Frederick,  named  for  the  Prince  of  Wales,  built  in 
1729  by  Colonel  David  Dunbar  under  royal  commission,  was  destroyed  during  the 
Revolution  by  local  residents  to  prevent  its  occupation  by  the  British.  The  little 
settlement  suffered  many  depredations  by  the  Indians  in  1745-48  during  the  Fifth 
Indian  War. 

Next  to  Captain  Kidd  of  another  period,  probably  no  pirate  in  Maine  waters  has 
been  the  subject  of  so  many  tales  as  Dixey  Bull.  In  1632  a  band  of  French  seized 
the  Plymouth  Company's  trading  post  at  Castine,  and  captured  the  sloop,  goods, 
and  provisions  belonging  to  Bull,  who  happened  to  be  there  at  the  time  as  a  trader. 
Fired  by  a  desire  for  revenge,  Bull  assembled  a  crew  of  twenty-odd  men  to  prey 
upon  foreign,  preferably  French,  shipping.  His  ventures  meeting  with  little  success, 
Bull  attacked  several  small  English  vessels.  When  in  1632  Bull  sailed  into  Pema- 
quid, sacked  the  trading  post  and  near-by  dwellings,  he  carried  away  booty  amount- 
ing to  $2500  in  value.  Bull's  lieutenant  was  killed  during  the  raid.  The  free-booter 
and  his  men  continued  raiding  isolated  colonies  and  attacking  small  vessels  until, 
in  November,  the  government  at  Boston  dispatched  a  fleet  of  five  sloops  and 
pinnaces  to  capture  him.  Although  the  fleet  cruised  off  the  Maine  coast  for  several 
weeks,  it  failed  to  find  the  pirate  captain  and  eventually  returned  to  Boston. 
There  is  no  definite  record  of  Bull's  end,  though  one  version  has  it  that  he  was 
finally  caught  and  executed  at  Tyburn,  England. 

A  Reproduction  of  the  Tower  of  Fort  William  Henry  (open  2-6)  faces  the  beach. 
Inside,  the  great  rocky  foundation  of  the  old  fort  is  seen,  and  showcases  containing 
relics  recovered  from  the  site,  copies  of  old  Indian  deeds,  early  military  equipment, 
and  many  other  articles.  From  the  roof  is  an  excellent  view  of  the  wooded  bay 
shores. 

A  low  stone  wall  encloses  the  old  parade  ground,  with  the  fort  in  the  left  corner 
and  the  Fort  House  in  the  right.  The  house,  built  by  Colonel  David  Dunbar  in  1 729, 
is  a  square  two-story  frame  building  with  cupola,  now  a  private  residence.  Border- 
ing the  stone  wall  are  about  200  old  cellars,  some  of  them  still  open  and  others 
partly  filled  in;  sunken  paved  streets,  excavated  some  time  ago,  are  now  exposed 
in  only  one  or  two  spots.  A  few  yards  from  the  rear  of  the  fort  enclosure,  reached  by 
a  beaten  path,  is  the  old  Fort  Cemetery.  Most  of  the  stones  are  of  slate  imported 
from  Wales  and  dated  in  the  i8th  century;  the  oldest  legible  inscription  is  that  of 
Ann  Rodgers,  wife  of  Lieutenant  Partrick  Rodgers,  who  died  July  i,  1758,  in  her 
4ist  year. 

NEW  HARBOR  (alt.  30,  Bristol  Town),  13.1  m.,  is  a  compact  fishing 
and  resort  settlement.  The  small  boats  riding  in  the  harbor  are  particu- 
larly well  built  to  withstand  the  buffeting  of  the  rough  waters  outside. 
Along  the  wharves  are  scattered  upturned  dories,  lobster  pots  with  floats, 
drying  nets,  fish-drying  stages,  and  all  the  appurtenances  of  fishing. 

New  Harbor  was  the  home  of  Samoset,  the  Indian  who,  in  March,  1621, 
startled  the  Pilgrims  of  Plymouth  by  appearing  among  them  with  the 
words,  'Much  welcome,  Englishmen.'  He  explained  that  he  was  a  sachem 
and  had  learned  the  language  from  Englishmen  engaged  in  fishing  off 
Monhegan,  and  named  many  of  the  boat  captains.  He  was  apparently 


270  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

accustomed  to  English  fare,  eating  without  comment  the  food  they  offered 
him.  On  his  next  visit  he  brought  with  him  Squando,  who  became  a 
friend  of  the  settlers.  Chief  Samoset  was  a  magnificent  figure,  tall  and 
straight,  his  body  naked  save  for  a  loin  cloth.  The  advice  of  these  Indians 
enabled  the  Pilgrims  to  replenish  their  dwindling  stores,  a  friendly  act 
that  was  later  repaid  with  treachery. 

Samoset  was  entertained,  with  other  Indian  leaders,  in  1624  in  Portland 
Harbor  by  Captain  Christopher  Levett. 

Left  from  New  Harbor  on  State  32  is  ROUND  POND  (alt.  25,  Bristol  Town),  6.6 
m.,  a  tiny  village  of  well-kept  homes  and  a  post  office,  sloping  down  to  a  small  cove 
on  Muscongus  Bay.  Eighty  years  ago  it  was  busy  with  shipbuilding,  the  making  of 
sails  and  rigging,  and  as  the  home  port  of  fishing  fleets. 

Loiid's  Island  (alt.  30,  Bristol  Town),  lying  1.5  miles  off  Round  Pond  village 
(rowboat  ferry;  irregular  service),  is  4  miles  long  and  1.5  miles  wide.  It  was  formerly 
called  Muscongus  Island.  By  an  oversight,  the  report  of  an  early  survey  omitted 
mention  of  the  island,  though  it  was  settled  about  1745.  The  map  of  the  coast  did 
not  show  it,  and  it  had  the  distinction  of  being  subject  to  no  government.  A 
system  of  self-government,  producing  excellent  results,  was  formed  by  the  residents. 
The  island  is  now  included  within  the  town  of  Bristol. 

Left  from  Round  Pond  village  2  m.  on  a  dirt  road;  here  stands  the  Old  Rock  School- 
house,  built  in  1836  of  granite  blocks  nearly  a  foot  thick,  and  chinked  with 
plaster.  In  the  small  building  eight  rough  benches,  each  accommodating  three 
pupils,  are  formed  by  planks  nailed  at  right  angles  to  the  walls.  One  of  the  oldest 
school  buildings  in  Maine,  it  was  abandoned  years  ago,  but  is  kept  in  repair  by  a 
local  organization. 

PEMAQUID  POINT  (alt.  60,  Bristol  Town),  15.8  m.,  the  extreme  tip  of 
the  peninsula,  is  marked  by  Pemaquid  Light  (parking  space  15j£).  The  old 
light  was  established  in  the  white  pyramidal  tower  connected  with  the 
dwelling  in  1827;  the  dwelling  is  no  longer  occupied.  In  1934  an  auto- 
matic illumination  apparatus  was  installed  in  the  old  tower. 

The  point  extends  far  out  from  the  bordering  land.  A  vast  expanse  of 
ocean  sweeps  before  it  and  on  its  rocky  shore  a  heavy  surf  pounds  cease- 
lessly. 

David  Ingram  with  his  companions,  Richard  Browne  and  Richard  Twide, 
are  thought  to  have  visited  the  Bashaba  Bessabez  here  in  1569  on  their 
long  walk  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  Nova  Scotia  after  they  had  been 
set  ashore  by  Captain  John  Hawkins.  Ingram's  tales  were  so  hazy  on 
practical  details  and  so  embroidered  by  his  imagination  that  it  is  im- 
possible to  identify  anything  he  described  with  certainty. 


TOUR      1  J  :     From  JUNCTION  WITH  US  IMPORT  CLYDE, 
14.5  m.,  State  131. 


Via  St.  George,  Tenant's  Harbor,  and  Martinsville. 
Two-lane  tar-surfaced  route. 

THE  upper  section  of  this  delightful  route  follows  the  eastern  bank  of 
the  broad  St.  George's  River,  then  crosses  the  narrow  peninsula  to  run 
along  the  inletted  shore  line,  where  it  is  swept  by  exhilarating  breezes 
from  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 

State  131  branches  south,  from  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b),Qm.,on  the  east- 
ern edge  of  Thomaston. 

ST.  GEORGE  (alt.  90,  St.  George  Town,  pop.  2108),  5.2  w.,  was  named  for 
the  Georges  Islands,  a  name  given  originally  to  Monhegan  by  George  Way- 
mouth  in  honor  of  England's  patron  saint  and  his  own  name  saint.  Way- 
mouth  visited  the  region  in  1605,  one  year  after  the  French  had  made  a 
settlement  on  Dochet  Island  in  the  St.  Croix  River,  claiming  the  whole 
northern  part  of  the  coast  for  France.  Waymouth  placed  a  cross  on  Allen 
Island,  one  of  the  present  Georges  Islands,  to  establish  England's  claim 
to  sovereignty  over  the  land.  The  village  is  near  the  site  of  a  trading  post 
established  about  1630  by  the  English  and  maintained  periodically  until 
the  Indian  War  in  1675. 

The  red  granite  Memorial  on  the  village  Green  is  to  members  of  the 
Gilchrist  family  who  served  in  the  Revolutionary,  Mexican,  and  Civil 
Wars. 

Wilbert  Snow,  contemporary  poet,  was  born  on  Whitehead  Island  in  this 
town.  His  books  of  verse,  'Down  East,'  'Inner  Harbor,'  and  'Maine 
Coast,'  are  vividly  descriptive  of  the  beauty  of  this  area  and  narrate  many 
of  the  old  local  legends. 

Behind  the  white  church  (R),  overlooking  a  cemetery  on  the  bank  of  St. 
George's  River,  is  the  unmarked  Site  of  Fort  St.  George's,  built  in  1809  and 
garrisoned  during  the  War  of  1812.  Rugged  earthworks  6  feet  high  and 
50  feet  long,  overgrown  by  alders,  are  the  only  remains  of  the  crescent- 
shaped  rampart  upon  which  i5-pounder  guns  were  once  mounted.  The 
English  ship  'Bulwark'  captured  the  fort  and  spiked  the  guns  in  1814. 

TENANT'S  HARBOR  (alt.  30,  St.  George  Town),  9.8  m.,  is  a  village 
with  stained  and  weather-beaten  homes.  The  deep  pits  of  granite  quarries 
are  visible  from  the  highway,  which  provides  a  view  out  to  the  fir-topped 
islands. 

At  11  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  ELMORE  NEIGHBORHOOD  (alt.  25,  St.  George  Town), 
1.7  m.,  on  Hart's  Neck.  At  the  end  of  this  road  a  footpath  has  been  worn  through 
the  woods  to  the  rough  jagged  shore  where  the  intermittent  boom  and  roar  of 


272  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Spouting  Horn,  near-by,  drowns  out  all  other  sounds.  This  waterspout  is  caused  by 
the  rush  of  the  sea  through  a  narrow  passage  under  a  ledge.  On  the  incoming  tide 
with  a  stiff  east  wind,  the  water  is  forced  40  feet  into  the  air. 

MARTINSVILLE  (alt.  20,  St.  George  Town),  12.1  m.,  with  its  few  houses 
by  the  roadside,  is  the  village  in  which  Sarah  Orne  Jewett  (see  Tour  11) 
once  taught  school.  Her  'Country  of  the  Pointed  Firs,'  written  in  the 
schoolhouse  that  stood  on  the  site  of  the  present  school  building  (R),  has 
this  immediate  area  for  its  locale. 

PORT  CLYDE  (alt.  30,  St.  George  Town),  14.5  m.,  has  steamer  con- 
nections (variable  schedules,  apply  at  wharf)  with  coastal  villages  and 
islands. 

Life  in  this  village  on  the  tip  of  the  peninsula  revolves  around  the  packing 
house  and  wharf  where  little  fishing  boats  ride  at  their  moorings. 

The  first  hostile  act  of  the  English  against  the  Indians  is  said  to  have  been 
committed  near  here  in  1605.  Captain  George  Waymouth,  in  the  'Arch- 
angel,' visited  here  and  found  'where  fire  had  been  made:  and  about  the 
place  were  very  great  egge  shelles  bigger  than  goose  egges,  fish  bones,  and 
as  we  judged,  the  bones  of  some  beast.'  The  party  lingered  on  this  pleas- 
ant spot,  repairing  their  ship,  catching  lobsters  and  fish,  and  gathering 
the  berries  which  grew  in  abundance.  Establishing  friendly  relations  with 
the  Indians,  the  party  traded  knives  and  baubles  for  valuable  furs  and 
tobacco.  Then,  seizing  five  of  the  aborigines,  they  sailed  away  to  display 
them  in  England.  These  Indians,  Tahanedo,  Amoret,  Skicoworos, 
Maneddo,  and  Saffacomoit,  attracted  much  attention  in  England. 
Three  were  held  by  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges  who  presented  two  to  Sir 
John  Popham;  these  Englishmen  were  the  chief  backers  of  Waymouth's 
expedition.  Sir  John  taught  his  Indians  to  speak  English,  in  order  to 
learn  more  about  the  country  from  which  they  came  and  to  judge  for 
himself  the  possible  sources  of  wealth  in  it.  Two  of  the  Indians  were  sent 
back  from  England  with  expeditions  sent  out  in  1606,  for  which  they 
were  to  act  as  interpreters.  The  ship  bearing  the  Indians  was  captured 
by  the  Spanish.  Skicoworos,  one  of  the  remaining  Indians,  came  back 
to  Maine  in  1607  on  the  'Gift  of  God,'  or  on  the  'Mary  and  John,'  ships 
commanded  by  George  Popham,  brother  of  Sir  John,  and  by  Raleigh 
Gilbert,  son  of  Sir  Humphrey  and  nephew  of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh.  This 
expedition  first  landed  on  Allen  Island,  which  is  between  the  end  of  St. 
George  peninsula  and  Monhegan  Island  (see  Popham  Beach,  Tour  IE). 


TOUR     IK:    From  STOCKTON  SPRINGS  to  ELLSWORTH, 
27.6  m.,  State  3. 


Via  Sandy  Point,  Verona  Island,  Bucksport,  Orland,  and  East  Orland. 
Two-lane  tar-surfaced  highway. 

THIS  route,  through  hilly  farmlands  offering  views  of  the  Penobscot 
River,  is  a  short  cut  for  the  section  of  US  1  that  loops  north  to  Bangor. 
State  3  branches  east  from  Stockton  Springs  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  c),  0  m. 
SANDY  POINT  (alt.  no,  Stockton  Springs  Town),  3.2  m.,  is  an  attrac- 
tive settlement  of  green-shuttered,  white  frame  houses  retaining  all  the 
charm  of  old  New  England.  The  graceful  facade  of  the  white  church  in 
the  center  of  the  village  looks  toward  Penobscot  Bay,  from  which  many 
men  from  this  township  departed  for  foreign  ports.  Immediately  op- 
posite the  church  is  a  small  burial  ground  with  many  stones  marked 
'Lost'  or  'Died  at  Sea.'  The  most  pretentious  monument  is  that  in 
memory  of  Captain  Albert  Partridge;  a  globe  of  polished  granite  bears  the 
names  of  the  many  distant  ports  he  visited. 

At  6.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  road  leading  (L)  0.3  m.  into  the  Fort 
Knox  reservation  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  c). 

The  Waldo-Hancock  Suspension  Bridge  (car  and  driver  50^f),  6.7  m.,  carries 
State  3  across  the  Penobscot  River.  The  bridge,  rising  137  feet  above  the 
river,  was  completed  in  the  fall  of  1931. 

VERONA  (alt.  80,  Verona  Town,  pop.  228),  7.5  m.,  is  on  an  island  in  the 
Penobscot  River.  The  last  vessel  built  and  launched  in  this  former  ship- 
building village  was  the  'Roosevelt,'  which  carried  Commander  Robert  E. 
Peary  on  his  final  Arctic  expedition,  during  which  he  is  believed  to  have 
reached  the  North  Pole. 

State  3  crosses  Verona  bridge  to  enter  Bucksport. 

BUCKSPORT  (alt.  80,  Bucksport  Town,  pop.  2135),  8  m.,  lies  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  Penobscot,  the  main  street  following  the  shore  of  the 
river.  Directly  opposite  Bucksport  are  the  gray  ramparts  of  Fort  Knox 
(see  Tour  1,  sec.  c),  which  stands  like  a  medieval  castle  at  a  high  point  of 
vantage  on  the  river  bank.  The  shopping  and  trading  center  of  the  village 
lies  on  the  low  ground  near  the  river,  and  the  residential  area  spreads  on 
higher  ground. 

The  Maine  Seaboard  Paper  Company  Mill  (visitors  welcome)  was  erected  in 
1930  in  the  northern  part  of  the  village.  The  mill  can  produce  more  than 
1280  feet  of  2i6-inch  high-grade  newsprint  a  minute.  Although  the  mill 
was  originally  designed  to  produce  250  tons  daily,  an  average  daily  pro- 
duction of  328  tons  was  reached  in  1936.  Paper  makers  from  all  parts  of 
the  world  have  made  studies  of  the  methods,  high-speed  machines,  and 
other  devices  in  use  at  this  mill. 


274  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Opposite  the  mill  is  a  group  of  Colonial-style  company  houses  with  land- 
scaped grounds. 

Franklin  Street  is  lined  with  houses  built  for  merchants  and  shipmasters 
of  the  early  days  of  this  town,  which  was  settled  in  1762  and  incorporated 
in  1792.  These  old  homes  contain  many  souvenirs,  pieces  of  bric-a-brac, 
and  furnishings,  gathered  from  all  parts  of  the  world. 

North  of  Franklin  Street,  the  buildings  of  the  former  Eastern  Maine  Con- 
ference Seminary  crown  a  hilltop.  Established  in  1851  and  discontinued 
in  1934  because  of  lack  of  funds,  this  former  Methodist-Episcopal  semi- 
nary was  in  1936  reopened  as  Spofford  Junior  High  School,  a  part  of  the 
public  school  system  of  the  town.  From  the  campus  is  visible  the  emerald 
beauty  of  Verona  Island  and  the  Waldo-Hancock  Bridge,  which  looks 
like  a  shining  ribbon  of  steel  flung  across  the  blue  Penobscot. 

On  the  south  side  of  Franklin  Street  is  the  Birthplace  of  William  and 
Dustin  Farnum,  stage  and  screen  actors. 

On  the  corner  of  Federal  and  Franklin  Sts.  is  the  Doctor  Moulton  House,  an 
architecturally  undistinguished  structure,  built  in  1799  and  occupied 
during  the  War  of  1812  by  the  British,  who  came  ashore  and  raided  and 
burned  property. 

The  Jed  Prouty  Tavern  (1804),  on  the  northeast  corner  of  Main  and 
Federal  Sts.,  is  known  as  the  setting  of  the  popular  comedy,  'Old  Jed 
Prouty.'  This  old  white,  three-story  hostelry  was  a  well-known  stopping- 
place  on  the  stage  route  between  Bangor  and  Castine,  the  county  seat. 
Here  travelers  sat  beneath  a  great  blackheart  cherry  tree  growing  among 
white  rosebushes  by  the  fence,  and  watched  the  busy  river  traffic  while 
they  waited  for  supper. 

On  the  pages  of  the  old  register  are  '  Martin  Van  Buren,  The  White 
House/  written  in  bold  letters;  'Gen'l  Jackson  —  Hermitage';  the  name 
of  William  Henry  Harrison;  and  'John  Tyler,  Washington.'  After  the 
last  some  person,  apparently  not  an  admirer,  wrote,  'And  the  Old  Nick 
is  after  him.' 

In  Buck  Cemetery,  near  the  entrance  to  Verona  Bridge,  a  plain  Granite 
Obelisk,  visible  from  the  highway,  marks  the  resting  place  of  Colonel 
Jonathan  Buck,  for  whom  Bucksport  was  named.  Legend  has  it  that, 
while  living  in  Haverhill,  Mass.,  prior  to  coming  to  Maine,  Colonel  Buck 
was  called  on,  in  an  official  capacity,  to  execute  a  woman  condemned  as  a 
witch.  It  was  said  that  the  woman  placed  a  curse  on  him;  after  his  death 
the  likeness  of  a  leg  and  foot  appeared  on  the  side  of  his  granite  monument. 
The  mark,  undoubtedly  a  defect  in  the  stone,  reappears  after  every  effort 
to  efface  it,  and  the  townspeople  call  it  the  Witch's  Curse. 

ORLAND  (alt.  180,  Orland  Town,  pop.  891),  10.3  m.,  with  neat  homes 
and  churches,  is  an  attractive  village  on  the  bank  of  the  blue  Narramissic 
River.  Edwin  Ginn,  founder  of  the  Boston  publishing  house  that  bears 
his  name,  was  born  here  in  1838. 
At  Orland  is  a  junction  with  State  175  (see  Tour  3). 


TOUR  1L:   Gouldsboro- Winter  Harbor  Peninsula         275 

EAST  ORLAND  (alt.  150,  Orland  Town),  14  m.,  is  a  crossroads. 

Left  from  East  Orland  on  a  gravel  road  to  a  U.  S.  Fish  Hatchery  (open),  1.3  m., 
established  on  the  shore  of  Alamoosook  Lake  for  the  propagation  of  salmon  and 
trout.  The  gravel  road  completely  circles  the  wooded  shores  of  the  lake.  Five  Red 
Paint  Indian  cemeteries,  together  with  Indian  relics  and  workshops,  have  been  un- 
earthed during  extensive  archeological  excavations  carried  on  along  the  lake  shore 
(see  Earliest  Inhabitants}. 

Right  from  the  hatchery  on  a  trail  that  extends  about  2  m.  along  the  course  of 
Craig  Brook  to  Craig  Pond,  then  north  to  Great  Mountain  (alt.  1037),  on  whose 
slope  is  a  deep  Cave  that  burrows  more  than  60  feet  into  the  center  of  the  mountain- 
side. The  formation  of  walls  and  ceiling  gives  its  several  rooms  a  weird  appearance. 

At  27.6  m.  State  3  rejoins  US  1  in  Ellsworth  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  c). 


TOUR     1  L  :     From  JUNCTION  WITH  US  1  to  JUNCTION 
WITH  US  1,  16.6  m.,  State  186. 


Via  Winter  Harbor,  Birch  Harbor,  and  Prospect  Harbor. 
Two-lane  tarred  roadbed. 

THIS  route  swings  over  a  crooked  and  rolling  road  with  many  sharp 
curves  and  hills  on  the  Gouldsboro-Winter  Harbor  peninsula,  an  ex- 
clusive summer  resort  area.  Off  the  blunt  southern  end  juts  Grindstone 
Neck,  from  which  are  unsurpassed  views  over  white-capped  seas.  Pointed 
firs  crown  wind-swept  ledges  along  the  jagged  coast  and  from  the  western 
shores  are  superb  views  across  blue  Frenchman's  Bay  of  Mount  Desert 
Island  with  its  forest-clad  hills. 

At  0  m.  State  186  swings  south  from  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  d),  on  the  west- 
ern edge  of  West  Gouldsboro. 

The  route  follows  the  shore  line  of  Frenchman's  Bay  for  several  miles. 

SOUTH  GOULDSBORO  (Gouldsboro  Town),  3  m.,  is  a  small  village  on 
an  inlet. 

At  6.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  local  road. 

Right  on  this  road  is  WINTER  HARBOR  (alt.  50,  Winter  Harbor  Town,  pop. 
517),  0.3  m.,  in  an  area  identified  principally  with  summer  recreation  and  beautiful 
summer  homes;  its  marine  views,  through  the  wide-mouthed  harbor  with  its  dozen 
islands,  are  famous.  Although  Frenchman's  Bay,  visible  beyond  Turtle  Island,  has 
been  known  to  freeze,  the  sheltered  harbor  here  with  an  average  depth  of  seven 
fathoms,  has  never  been  frozen. 

The  road  swings  left  at  the  end  of  the  village  and  passes  the  Grindstone  Inn  Golf 
Club  (open  June  15  to  Sept.  15;  g-hole  course),  and  Swimming  Pool,  and  at  1.6  m. 
reaches  GRINDSTONE  NECK,  a  beautiful  area  with  summer  estates. 

At  7.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  improved  road. 

Right  on  this  road,  at  3.8  m.,  is  an  improved  road  (L)  that  winds  its  way  1  m.  to  the 


276  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

summit  of  Schoodic  Mountain,  locally  called  Schoodic  Head  (alt.  437).  From  this 
height  the  entrance  to  the  Bay  of  Fundy  can  be  seen  northeast. 

At  4.6  m.  the  main  side  road  swings  right  and  at  4.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt 
road  that  leads  1.5  m.  to  the  U.S.  Radio-Direction  Finder  Station  (not  open  to 
public). 

At  5.2  m.  is  a  parking  site  at  the  tip  of  the  Schoodic  Peninsula  which  is  a  part  of 
Acadia  National  Park.  There  is  a  beautiful  view  of  the  ocean  and  Cadillac  Moun- 
tain. The  view  at  this  point  is  particularly  fine  when  the  ground  swells  come  roll- 
ing in  against  the  rocks  after  a  storm  at  sea.  On  the  eastern  side  of  Schoodic 
Peninsula  is  Wonsqueak  Stream,  locally  called  One  Screech.  It  is  said  that  an 
Indian  became  jealous  of  his  squaw  and,  taking  her  out  in  his  canoe,  threw  her  over- 
board. Before  the  waters  closed  over  her  she  gave  one  screech. 

At  9.6  m.  is  BIRCH  HARBOR  (alt.  50,  Gouldsboro  Town).  Tradition 
says  that  this  beautiful  harbor,  which  now  has  a  summer  colony,  was  so 
named  for  a  thick  birch  grove  along  the  shore.  Today  there  are  few 
birches,  but  the  seascape  is  one  of  the  finest  along  this  section  of  the 
coast. 

PROSPECT  HARBOR  (alt.  30,  Gouldsboro  Town),  11.6  m.,  called 
Watering  Cove  in  the  early  days  of  settlement,  is  a  summer  residential 
village. 

Right  from  Prospect  Harbor  on  a  local  road  to  COREA,  3  m.  Here  wind-swept 
dunes  contrast  with  the  otherwise  rugged  coastal  scenery.  A  summer  settlement 
tips  the  slender  headland  jutting  out  into  the  sea,  while  in  a  quiet  cove  are  the 
cottages  of  fishermen,  whose  nets  hang  drying  on  rickety  wharves. 

Near-by  is  a  lobster  pound,  a  huge  tank  from  which  live  lobsters  may  be  selected 
before  they  are  cooked  in  seaweed.  Several  Maine  coast  resorts  have  such  pounds. 

On  the  outskirts  of  GOULDSBORO,  State  186  rejoins  US  1  (see  Tour  1, 
sec.  d)  at  16.6  m. 


TOUR  1  M  :  From  WHITING  to  LUBEC  (Treat's  and  Cam- 
pobello  Islands),  11  m.,  State  189. 

Two-lane  gravel  road. 

THE  route  runs  through  an  area  that  makes  clear  why  'rock-bound' 
always  precedes  mention  of  the  coast  of  Maine;  on  the  mainland  are  high 
cliffs,  the  land  rises  abruptly  from  the  rivers  and  bays,  and  the  offshore 
islands  are  rugged.  The  area  is  particularly  fascinating  to  inlanders,  be- 
cause both  the  villages  and  the  people  have  distinctive  characteristics, 
developed  by  long  contact  with  the  sea.  The  weathered  wharves  and 
canning  factories  are  the  centers  of  interest  to  visitors,  as  well  as  the 
centers  of  community  life. 

State  189  branches  northeast  from  US  1  at  Whiting  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  d), 
0  m.,  crossing  Orange  River. 


TOUR  1M:   From  Whiting  to  Lubec  277 

At  1.6  m.  (R)  is  a  free  camp  site. 

At  5.7  m.  is  the  West  Lubec  Post  Office. 

1.  Left  from  West  Lubec  Post  Office  on  a  gravel  road,  along  which  are  shafts  of 
abandoned  lead  mines,  is  NORTH  TRESCOTT  (alt.  20,  Trescott  Town,  pop.  365), 
5.5  m.,  on  a  point  of  land  formed  by  the  Cobscook  River  and  an  arm  of  Cobscook 
Bay. 

Cobscook  Falls,  visible  at  the  road's  end,  are  formed  by  high  tides  rushing  with 
tremendous  force  through  a  narrow  gut. 

2.  Right  from  West  Lubec  Post  Office,  on  State  191,  is  CUTLER  (alt.  60,  Cutler 
Town,  pop.  492),  14.1  m.,  a  farming  and  fishing  community  on  a  horseshoe-shaped 
harbor.   The  town  with  its  irregular  coast  line  has  numerous  picnic  grounds  and 
camping  spots. 

At  9.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  local  road. 

1.  Left  on  this  road,  known  as  the  North  Lubec  Road,  which  has  many  excellent 
views  as  it  runs  along  a  narrow  neck  of  land  that  extends  into  Cobscook  Bay. 
NORTH  LUBEC  (alt.  80,  Lubec  Town),  3  m.,  gained  notoriety  from  the  Jernegan 
gold  swindle  (1896-98).   Jernegan,  pastor  of  a  local  church,  claimed  he  had  per- 
fected a  method  of  extracting  gold  from  sea  water  by  electrolysis.  A  stock  company 
was  formed  and  much  stock  sold  throughout  the  country.  A  plant  was  erected  on 
the  shore;  divers  were  sent  to  the  bottom  and  came  up  bringing  small  quantities  of 
gold.   Large  crews  of  workmen  were  imported  and  operations  went  on  for  a  few 
months  until  Jernegan,  having  collected  a  considerable  sum  of  money,  disappeared. 

2.  Right  on  the  local  gravel  road  is  West  Quoddy  Head  (alt.  40),  8  m.,  the  most 
easterly  point  of  the  United  States,  where  a  Coast  Guard  station  and  a  lighthouse 
are  maintained.  From  this  point  the  high  cliffs  of  Grand  Manan  Island  are  visible 
on  a  clear  day. 

LUBEC  (alt.  80,  Lubec  Town,  pop.  2983),  11  m.,  has  had  greatly  increased 
activity  since  the  beginning  of  the  Passamaquoddy  Power  Project  (see 
Tour  IN).  It  is  a  picturesque  seaside  village  with  beautiful  views  of  sur- 
rounding bays  and  coves. 

Chaloner  Tavern,  Main  and  Cleaves  Sts.,  formerly  a  stage-line  terminus, 
has  been  used  as  a  public  house  since  1804.  Chaloner's,  the  Golden  Ball, 
and  Stearns'  were  the  taverns  in  this  harbor  town  in  an  earlier  day  when 
illicit  border  trade  was  profitable.  Flour,  bought  in  Canada  for  $4  a 
barrel,  sold  here  for  $8.  Smuggling  was  rampant.  Vessels  hailing  from 
Lubec  or  near-by  towns  took  out  papers  for  Spain  or  Portugal,  sailed  in- 
stead to  some  Canadian  port  where  sugar,  molasses,  flour,  and  rum  were 
loaded  and  returned  with  full  cargoes.  At  any  time  of  night  innkeepers 
might  be  awakened  by  furtive  knocks  upon  their  doors. 

The  Golden  Ball,  now  the  Corns tock  House,  is  on  Pleasant  St.  It  is  said 
the  tavern  keeper  had  a  special  room  for  deserting  British  sailors  whom 
he  recognized  by  their  sea-soaked  clothing,  for  they  usually  swam  ashore. 
Generally  they  had  money  and  he  was  glad  to  aid  them  in  boarding  a 
coaster  at  near-by  ports.  The  story  is  told  of  an  English  officer  who,  look- 
ing for  a  hide-out,  was  tossed  into  the  street  when  he  displeased  the  inn- 
keeper. The  keeper's  daughter  went  to  the  officer's  assistance  and  later 
they  were  married. 

Most  of  the  old  houses  here  face  east,  according  to  the  former  custom. 
On  TREAT'S  ISLAND  (alt.  40,  Lubec  Town),  in  Cobscook  Bay,  reached  from 


278  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Lubec  by  ferry,  considerable  construction  in  connection  with  the  Passamaquoddy 
Tidal  Project  (see  Tour  IN)  has  been  in  progress.  The  dam  was  to  have  run  directly 
across  the  island. 

A  large  granite  Shaft,  near  the  center  of  the  island,  is  in  memory  of  Colonel  John 
Allen,  Indian  Superintendent  for  the  Eastern  District  during  the  Revolution,  who 
was  chiefly  responsible  for  keeping  the  Passamaquoddy  Indians  on  the  side  of  the 
colonists.  Colonel  Allen  conducted  a  trading  post  on  this  island. 

CAMPOBELLO  ISLAND  (Ital.:  'beautiful  meadow'),  though  Canadian  soil,  is 
reached  by  a  few  minutes'  ferry  ride  across  Lubec  Narrows.  1.5  m.  from  the  ferry, 
the  Summer  Home  of  President  Franklin  D.  Roosevelt,  a  large  red  house,  is  visible 
from  the  road.  There  is  excellent  fishing  from  the  island,  and  the  30  miles  of  im- 
proved roads  winding  over  it  and  passing  many  beautiful  summer  homes,  provide 
magnificent  panoramic  views  of  the  sea  and  the  Maine  coast. 


TOUR     IN:   From  PERRY  to  EASTPORT,  7.3  m.,  State  190. 


Via  Quoddy  Village. 
Two-lane  tar-surfaced  road. 

THE  route  runs  close  to  the  shore  of  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  which,  in 
sunlight,  is  intensely  blue;  beyond  the  islands  dotting  the  water  rise  the 
hills  of  New  Brunswick.  This  route  is  particularly  delightful  in  the  early 
morning,  when  the  thumping  of  motor-boats  and  the  tangy  aroma  of  dry- 
ing fish  is  a  reminder  of  the  area's  fishing  activities. 

State  190  branches  southeast  from  US  1  at  Perry,  0  m.  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  d). 
At  0.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  gravel  road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  Pleasant  Point,  2  m.,  a,  loo-acre  reservation  established  about 
1822  and  occupied  by  300  Passamaquoddy  Indians.  The  State  appoints  an  agent  to 
supervise  the  business  affairs  of  the  reservation  but  the  Indians  elect  their  own 
governor  and  may  send  a  member  of  the  tribe  to  represent  them  before  the  legisla- 
ture. Houses  on  the  reservation  are  of  modern  camp  type  and  there  is  a  fully 
equipped  elementary  school. 

These  Indians  had  accepted  Roman  Catholicism  before  there  was  extensive  white 
settlement  in  the  State  and  have  remained  devout  communicants  even  though 
retaining  some  of  their  primitive  ceremonies.  After  a  conventional  church  wed- 
ding in  the  little  brick  church,  for  example,  the  dark-skinned,  sleek-haired  Passa- 
maquoddies  dance  to  the  beating  of  drums  and  the  chanting  of  old  songs.  Dis- 
carding ordinary  dress,  which  differs  little  from  that  of  the  white  people  living 
around  them,  they  don  ancient  costume  and  headdress,  and  paint  their  faces.  They 
welcome  visitors  to  these  affairs  and  appreciate  applause.  While  they  do  not  make 
friends  easily,  once  their  initial  shyness  has  worn  off  they  belie  their  reputation  for 
taciturnity  and  are  excellent  story-tellers. 

The  Passamaquoddies  do  some  farming  and  occasionally  work  on  the  roads,  but 
their  livelihood  is  derived  chiefly  from  fishing. 

From  the  time  of  the  Revolution,  the  men  have  been  active  in  military  service; 
many  joined  the  northern  troops  in  the  Civil  War.  In  the  Indian  Cemetery  (R)  at 
the  top  of  the  hill  near  the  entrance  to  the  reservation,  is  a  monument  to  Moses 


TOUR  IN:   From  Perry  to  Eastport  279 

Neptune,  killed  at  the  Argonne  in  1918,  and  another  to  the  memory  of  Charles 
Nola,  who  was  posthumously  awarded  the  Croix  de  Guerre  for  remarkable  courage 
and  tenacity  in  defending  an  advance  post  until  he  was  killed,  in  the  World  War. 
Most  of  the  graves  are  marked  by  small  wooden  crosses  with  carved  inscriptions. 
A  Dam,  a  part  of  the  Passamaquoddy  Project,  has  been  built  between  Pleasant 
Point  and  Carlow  Island. 

At  4.2  m.  State  190  crosses  a  bridge  to  Moose  Island.  A  short  distance 
south  of  the  bridge  is  Quoddy  Village,  in  which  250  New  England  young 
men  are  learning  (1937),  in  a  National  Youth  Administration  experi- 
ment, to  choose  careers  compatible  with  their  talents  and  abilities. 

The  boys  occupy  the  1 20  temporary  cottages,  nine  permanent  houses,  the 
apartment  buildings,  the  barracks  and  the  mess  halls  formerly  used  by  the 
laborers  and  engineers  employed  on  the  gigantic  tidal  project  to  harness 
the  high  tides  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  The  youths  have  their  own  municipal 
government,  run  a  newspaper,  and  do  all  the  maintenance  and  service 
work. 

In  the  exhibition  building  at  Quoddy  Village  there  is  a  working  Model 
of  the  Passamaquoddy  Tidal  Power  Development  Project  as  originally 
planned,  its  purpose  being  the  utilization  of  the  high  range  of  tides  in  the 
vicinity  of  Passamaquoddy  Bay  near  Eastport. 

This  controversial  project  was  undertaken  by  the  United  States  Govern- 
ment in  April,  1935,  with  Federal  funds,  work  being  placed  under  the 
supervision  of  army  engineers.  Actual  construction  was  begun  in  Febru- 
ary, 1936.  Work  was  suspended  in  February,  1937,  after  the  dams  con- 
necting Pleasant  Point  to  Carlow  Island  and  Carlow  Island  to  Kendall 
Head  (thus  linking  Eastport  with  the  mainland)  and  a  short  dam  between 
Treat  and  Dudley  Islands  had  been  completed.  The  estimated  cost  of 
the  total  finished  project  is  between  37  and  38  million  dollars. 

The  idea  of  harnessing  tidal  power  is  not  new;  even  in  Colonial  days  there  were 
small  tidal  mills  along  this  coast  and  in  other  parts  of  the  world,  principally  grist- 
mills. But  the  Quoddy  Project  was  the  first  large-scale  attempt  to  manufacture 
power  from  the  changes  of  the  sea.  At  Passamaquoddy  Bay  is  one  of  the  few  known 
possible  sites  in  the  world  for  such  an  undertaking;  unusually  high  ocean  tides  (their 
average  range  from  13  to  23  feet)  flow  and  ebb  with  great  force  through  narrow 
channels  connecting  two  large  natural  basins  which  are  adjacent  to  each  other  and 
are  almost  entirely  landlocked. 

The  originally  conceived  International  or  'Two-Pool'  Plan  of  development  em- 
braced Cobscook  Bay  and  all  of  Passamaquoddy  Bay  as  well,  the  northern  part 
of  which  is  in  Canada.  In  this  plan,  power  would  be  generated  continuously  by 
controlling  the  flow  of  water  into  the  two  pools  so  as  to  keep  them  at  variant  levels, 
thus  producing  a  powerful  waterfall  at  a.  point  between  the  basins  known  as  'the 
Carrying  Place';  here  the  generating  station  would  be  installed.  The  Canadian 
Government's  failure  to  co-operate  in  the  international  development  limited  the 
project  to  the  single-pool  plan.  The  planned  operation  of  the  latter  is  identical 
with  that  of  the  double  pool,  except  that  the  lower  basin  would  not  be  blocked  off 
from  the  ocean  and  so  would  not  remain  constantly  at  low  tide  level,  but  would  rise 
and  fall  with  the  ocean  tide.  Dams  would  run  across  the  mouth  of  Cobscook  Bay, 
the  arm  of  Passamaquoddy  from  Estes  Head  on  the  southeastern  shore  of  Eastport 
to  Lubec  Neck,  crossing  Treat  and  Dudley  Islands,  the  top  of  the  dam  making  a 
highway  between  Eastport  and  Lubec  only  two  and  a  half  miles  long  (at  present 
it  is  42  miles  by  road  from  Eastport  to  Lubec).  That  part  of  the  dam  already  com- 
pleted connecting  Eastport  with  the  mainland  to  the  north  replaces  the  old 


280  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

wooden  railroad  trestle.  The  tide  would  flow  in  through  filling  gates  between  the 
islands  and  out  through  locks  between  Dudley  Island  and  Lubec  Neck  and 
through  a  canal  cut  through  '  the  Carrying  Place '  between  the  northeast  section  of 
Cobscook  Bay  and  the  St.  Croix  River.  The  incoming  and  outgoing  tides  would 
here  run  large  turbines  to  generate  the  power. 

In  this  plan  generation  would  continue  seven  hours  out  of  the  tide  cycle  of  ap- 
proximately twelve  and  a  half  hours.  During  the  remaining  time  when  Cobscook 
Bay  was  being  refilled,  the  gap  in  power  production  would  be  taken  care  of  by  (i) 
a  pumped  storage  plant,  (2)  tying  in  the  project  with  existing  power  systems,  (3) 
an  auxiliary  hydro-electric  plant  which  could  be  constructed  in  the  vicinity,  or 
(4)  a  mechanical  generating  plant.  The  pumped  storage  reservoir,  perhaps  the  most 
feasible  of  these  devices,  could  be  constructed  in  the  vicinity  of  Haycock  Harbor, 
over  100  feet  above  sea  level;  when  the  tidal  power  plant  was  not  running,  water 
would  be  released  from  the  reservoir  through  an  auxiliary  set  of  turbines,  thus 
furnishing  continuous  power.  Pumps  could  operate  as  turbines  during  the  flow 
of  water  back  to  the  ocean,  and  likewise  the  motors  driving  the  pumps  could  act 
as  generators  furnishing  power. 

The  electricity  generated  at  Quoddy  would  be  greater  than  the  combined  capacity 
of  all  existing  power  stations  in  the  State,  and  would  supply  cheap  power  to  farms 
throughout  Maine  and  to  industries  which  might  be  encouraged  to  enter  the  region. 
It  was  hoped  by  advocates  of  the  project  that  the  newly  created  opportunities  for 
manufacturing  would  bring  about  the  development  of  the  State's  mineral  deposits 
(see  Mineral  Resources). 

EASTPORT  (alt.  80,  pop.  3466),  7.3  m.,  with  its  neighbor  Lubec,  has  long 
been  important  in  the  fishing  industry,  though  it  is  now  less  so  than 
formerly.  Fishing,  like  agriculture,  has  fallen  on  evil  days.  Centralized 
control  of  the  marketing  end  of  the  business,  the  use  of  the  high-powered 
beam  trawlers  that  destroy  millions  of  young  fish,  pollution  of  the 
streams  in  which  the  fish  formerly  spawned,  and  other  factors  have  re- 
duced many  of  the  fishermen  to  abject  poverty. 

In  this  area  the  most  valuable  fish  are  cod,  haddock,  cusk,  hake,  pollock, 
halibut,  and  herring;  the  smal1  herring  are  canned  as  sardines.  Sardine 
canning  began  in  Eastport  about  1875  and  since  that  time  the  women  of 
the  town,  young  and  old,  drop  whatever  they  are  doing,  seize  their  aprons 
and  knives,  and  rush  to  the  factories  when  the  siren  gives  warning  of  a 
new  catch.  The  old  folk  speak  of  sardines  as  'little  fish  biled  in  ile.' 

The  once  worthless  herring  scales  have  become  a  valued  by-product  of  the 
industry,  now  being  carefully  gathered  for  the  making  of  an  essence  used 
to  give  iridescence  to  artificial  pearls.  Two  plants  here  manufacture  the 
product. 

The  town  was  settled  in  1780,  but  European  traders  were  here  a  hundred 
years  earlier.  The  port  had  considerable  prosperity  after  the  passage  of 
the  Embargo  Act  of  1807,  becoming  the  center  of  extensive  two-way 
smuggling  operations.  The  British  ignored  these  activities  until  after 
1812  when  war  was  declared;  in  July,  1814,  they  captured  the  town,  con- 
fiscating several  vessels  that  were  about  to  sail,  loaded  with  contraband. 
The  Site  of  Fort  Sullivan,  erected  in  1808  for  the  protection  of  the  settle- 
ment, is  on  a  high  ledge  behind  the  Shead  Memorial  High  School;  from 
the  ledge  is  a  magnificent  view  of  the  coast  and  islands. 

The  George  Pearse  Ennis  Art  School  (open)  is  on  High  St.  opposite 


TOUR  2:   From  Ellsworth  to  Tremont  281 

Boynton  St.  Many  artists  visit  Eastport  in  numbers  each  summer  be- 
cause of  the  striking  coast  views  and  in  spite  of  the  fogs  that  are  frequent 
in  August. 

Eastport  Country  Club  Inn  (open),  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  maintains 
a  g-hole  golf  course. 

Yachting  and  fishing  are  popular  forms  of  recreation  (boats  for  hire). 
Campobello  Island  (see  Tour  1M)  is  visible  from  the  waterfront. 


TOUR   2  :  MOUNT  DESERT  ISLAND  :From  ELLS  WORTH 
to  TREMONT,  54.1  m.,  State  3,  State  198  and  State  102. 


Via  Salisbury  Cove,  Hull's  Cove,  Bar  Harbor,  Seal  Harbor,  Northeast  Harbor, 
Mount  Desert,  Southwest  Harbor,  Manset,  and  Ship  Harbor. 

Two-lane  tarvia  and  cement  roadbeds. 

THIS  route,  one  of  the  most  scenic  in  Maine,  winds  through  the  fashion- 
able summer  resorts  of  Mount  Desert  Island  and  through  Acadia  National 
Park,  dominated  by  Cadillac  Mountain  (alt.  1532).  The  island  is  one  of 
the  most  dramatically  beautiful  spots  in  the  world.  Here  eighteen  hills  — 
locally  called  mountains  —  and  twenty-six  lakes  and  ponds  cover  a  rocky, 
wooded  island  that  is  cut  nearly  in  half  by  a  fiord.  The  circling  highway 
presents  ever-changing  views  of  the  island-dotted  waters  and  the  abrupt 
and  broken  coast  of  the  mainland. 

Mount  Desert  Island,  as  well  as  the  rest  of  Maine  and  what  is  now  the 
United  States  as  far  south  as  the  Mason  and  Dixon  Line,  was  included  in 
the  grant  called  Acadia  that  was  made  by  Henry  IV  of  France  in  1603  to 
the  Sieur  de  Monts.  In  1604,  Samuel  de  Champlain,  making  his  second 
voyage  to  the  New  World,  this  time  with  de  Monts  as  his  patron,  came 
down  the  coast  after  a  colony  had  been  established  at  the  mouth  of  the 
St.  Croix  River,  exploring  the  waters  as  far  as  Cape  Cod.  He  is  credited 
with  the  discovery  of  this  island,  which  he  named,  possibly  with  a  punning 
reference  to  the  man  who  had  sent  him  on  the  voyage,  1'Isle  des  Monts 
deserts.  A  few  years  later  a  French  missionary  colony  was  established 
here,  but  this  was  speedily  wiped  out  by  the  English,  who  had  no  intention 
of  permitting  France  to  establish  a  foothold  in  a  country  so  rich  in  furs 
and  forests.  In  1688,  Louis  XIV  granted  the  island  as  a  feudal  fief  to  the 
Sieur  de  la  Mothe  Cadillac  —  later  founder  of  Detroit  —  who  came  to 
live  on  his  domain.  In  1713,  Louis  XIV  was  forced  to  cede  the  island,  as 
part  of  a  large  slice  of  Maine,  to  the  English.  Massachusetts  acquired 
control  of  it  and  granted  the  island  to  Sir  Francis  Bernard,  its  Royal 
Governor,  for  'distinguished  services.'  Bernard  visited  the  place  in  1762 


282  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

and  was  enchanted  by  its  beauty.  At  the  time  of  the  Revolution  Ber- 
nard's property  in  America  was  confiscated,  but  later  his  son  succeeded  in 
having  half  the  island  returned  to  the  family;  a  granddaughter  of  Cadillac 
managed  to  gain  control  of  the  other  half. 

Several  small  settlements  were  made  on  the  land  at  various  times,  but  it 
was  not  until  after  the  advent  of  the  steamboat  that  the  real  development 
began.  About  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century  Mount  Desert  Island 
began  to  attract  visitors  and  from  then  on  its  history  has  to  some  extent 
paralleled  that  of  Newport  as  a  fashionable  summer  resort. 

In  1901  the  State  of  Maine  began  a  movement  to  preserve  the  beauty  of 
the  place  by  setting  some  of  it  aside  as  a  public  reservation.  In  1916  con- 
trol of  the  reserved  area  was  transferred  to  the  Federal  Government;  this 
control  has  been  extended  and  the  public  lands  are  now  called  Acadia 
National  Park. 

ELLSWORTH  (alt.  100,  pop.  3557)  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  c),  0  m.,  is  at  a 
junction  of  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  c)  and  State  15  (see  Tour  3).  State  3 
branches  south  from  US  1, 1.1  miles  southeast  of  the  center  of  Ellsworth. 

At  7.1  m.  (L)  is  the  Bar  Harbor  Airport  and  modern  flying  field  built  under 
the  supervision  of  the  Public  Works  Administration. 

At  8.8  m.  is  the  drawbridge  spanning  Mount  Desert  Narrows,  which 
separate  the  island  from  the  mainland. 

At  SALISBURY  COVE  (alt.  20,  Bar  Harbor  Town),  14.1  m.,  are  (L)  four 
buildings  occupied  by  the  Mount  Desert  Island  Biological  Laboratory  (open 
Wed.  p.m.),  which  provides  research  facilities  and  instruction. 

At  16.4  m.  (R)  are  trim  pine  and  spruce  groves;  left  is  a  view  of  French- 
man's Bay,  which  in  summer  is  livened  by  dipping  white  sails  and  speed- 
ing motor-boats. 

At  HULL'S  COVE  (alt.  80,  Bar  Harbor  Town),  16.8  m.,  a  boulder  in  the 
village  cemetery  (R)  marks  the  Grave  of  Madame  Marie  TMrese  de 
Gregoire,  granddaughter  of  Cadillac,  who  once  owned  the  island. 

BAR  HARBOR  (alt.  70,  Bar  Harbor  Town,  pop.  4486),  19.9  m. 

Accommodations.  Hotels,  rooming  houses,  and  restaurants,  with  wide  price  range. 

Transportation.  Bus  service  in  summer  between  Bar  Harbor  and  B.  &  M.  R.R. 
Station  in  Ellsworth.  Regular  and  special  boat  trips  to  islands  daily  (inquire  on 
waterfront).  Power  boats,  sailboats  and  canoes  for  rent  on  waterfront.  Daily  sight- 
seeing trips,  10.30, 2.30,  and  4.30  on  Frenchman's  Bay,  lasting  2  hrs. ;  $1  per  person. 

Information  Services.  Headquarters  Acadia  National  Park,  Main  St.;  detailed 
maps  for  sale,  free  naturalist-guide  service  for  park  area.  Bar  Harbor  Publicity 
Bureau,  Main  St.,  for  information  on  hotels,  boarding  houses,  sightseeing  trips,  etc. 

Bar  Harbor  is  the  center  of  social  and  commercial  life  on  the  island.  In 
summer  the  two  business  streets  are  lined  with  smart  shops,  branches  of 
those  on  Fifth  and  Madison  Avenues  in  New  York  City,  and  are  filled 
with  brightly  dressed  visitors  and  summer  residents.  There  is  a  constant 
stream  of  arrivals  and  departures  into  Bar  Harbor  in  connection  with  the 
gay  house  parties  and  entertainments  given  by  the  dowagers  and  debu- 


TOUR  2:   From  Ellsworth  to  Tremont  283 

tantes  of  the  wealthy  and  nationally  prominent  families  that  own  homes 
here.  Yacht  races,  a  marine  tennis  tournament,  swimming,  and  numerous 
other  competitive  sports,  as  well  as  flower  shows,  garden  parties,  and  the 
like,  are  prominent  in  the  season's  program. 

Besides  the  visitors  whose  names  are  recorded  weekly  in  the  social 
columns  of  the  metropolitan  dailies  there  are  those  whose  objective  is  the 
resort's  beauty;  they  never  tire  of  climbing  the  rocky  slopes  to  find  new 
vistas  of  the  coast  and  sea. 

The  Shore  Club,  on  the  harbor,  established  by  six  of  the  leading  hotels,  is 

the  social  center  for  hotel  guests,  visiting  yachtsmen,  and  summer 

residents. 

The  Mount  Desert  Players  present  Greek,  Shakespearean,  and  modern 

drama  in  the  Casino,  on  Cottage  St. 

Branching  from  the  business  streets  are  park-like  sections  containing 
churches,  hotels,  and  residences. 

Right  from  Bar  Harbor  on  Mt.  Desert  St.  to  Cadillac  Mountain  Drive.  At  1.2  m. 
(L)  is  the  Kebo  Valley  Country  Club  (open  July  4-Od.  15,  18  holes). 

The  Building  of  Arts,  1.3  m.  (L),  with  massive  columns,  and  friezes  of  the  Muses, 
has  a  terraced  amphitheater  at  the  rear  where  recitals  are  given  during  the  summer 
season  by  well-known  musicians. 

At  1.7  m.  (L)  is  the  entrance  to  Acadia  National  Park,  which  has  15,000  acres  of 
mountain  lakes.  One  section  of  the  park  is  on  the  mainland,  covering  Schoodic 
Point,  south  of  Winter  Harbor  (see  Tour  1).  The  rocky  summits,  jutting  cliffs,  and 
forested  slopes  of  the  island  rise  so  abruptly  from  the  heavy  waves  of  the  open 
Atlantic  that  the  roads  and  trails  of  the  park  provide  an  almost  endless  series  of 
views  that  are  breath-taking.  The  reservation  is  a  wild-life  sanctuary  with  a  com- 
bination of  woodland,  lakes,  highlands,  and  seashore  that  makes  possible  an 
amazing  variety  of  vegetable  and  animal  life;  it  is,  moreover,  in  the  band  where  the 
Northern  and  the  Temperate  Zone  floras  meet  and  overlap,  and  is  directly  on  the 
coastal  migration  route  of  the  birds.  Vegetation  grows  here  with  exceptional  vigor, 
and,  among  the  many  wild  flowers  in  the  forests  and  on  the  frost-split,  lichen-clad 
rocks,  are  some  of  great  rarity  and  others  of  exceptional  beauty.  In  addition  to  the 
motor  road,  there  are  more  than  200  miles  of  well-kept  and  plainly  marked  trails 
and  bridle  paths  that  thread  their  ways  through  the  area  to  places  where  those  who 
like  solitude  can  find  it  without  difficulty. 

At  2.6  in.  the  Cadillac  Mountain  Summit  Road,  a  smooth,  skillfully  engineered 
ascent  whose  gradient  never  exceeds  seven  per  cent,  is  entered.  It  winds  up  the 
mountain-side  through  heavy  woods  and  past  occasional  open  spots  providing  wide 
panoramas  of  exceptional  grandeur  and  striking  contrasts.  Parking  stations  have 
been  provided  at  intervals  where  the  views  are  particularly  beautiful.  The  sweep  of 
sea,  islands,  coves,  and  inlets  is  increasingly  wide  as  the  road  rises,  and  craft  in  the 
waters  below  become  no  more  than  toy  boats. 

At  6.3  m.  the  road  reaches  the  plateau  that  is  the  Summit  of  Cadillac  Mountain 
(alt.  1532)  and  circles  it.  From  the  ample  parking  space  here  is  a  view  of  sea  and 
land  stretching  far  into  the  distance  that  is  particularly  impressive  at  sunrise  or 
sunset.  Many  miles  of  the  ragged,  surf-silvered  coastline  are  visible.  To  the  south 
is  the  ocean,  flecked  here  and  there  with  boats;  to  the  north  is  solitary  Mount 
Katahdin,  no  miles  away.  Westward,  the  graceful  outlines  of  the  Camden  Hills 
are  visible. 

Easter  sunrise  services,  largely  attended,  are  held  annually  on  the  mountain-top. 
South  of  Bar  Harbor,  at  21.3  m.,  is  a  junction  with  Ocean  Drive. 

Left  on  Ocean  Drive;  this  6-mile  loop  of  highway  follows  the  shore.    Across 


284  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Frenchman's  Bay  is  a  fine  view  of  Schoodic  Point,  jutting  far  out  to  sea  with  the 
waves  breaking  grandly  over  it.  After  a  storm  at  sea  the  ground  swell  that  comes 
racing  in  against  the  headland  makes  a  scene  unsurpassed  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 

Schooner  Head,  2.4  m.  (L),  a  high,  wave- washed  cliff,  named  for  its  resemblance  to 
a  schooner,  is  said  to  have  been  cannonaded  in  1814  by  the  British,  who  mistook  its 
outline  for  that  of  a  ship.  In  the  cove  on  the  south  shore  of  Schooner  Head  is 
Indian's  Foot,  a  marking  in  the  rock  resembling  a  footprint.  The  ledge  at  the 
southern  end  of  the  cove  has  been  washed  out  by  pounding  waves  and  is  known  as 
Anemone  Cave. 

Great  Head,  3.4  m.  (L),  a  high  promontory  reached  by  several  paths,  affords  (L)  a 
superb  view  of  Frenchman's  Bay  with  its  many  humped  islands,  and  (R)  the  open 
ocean.  In  the  cove  formed  by  Great  Head  is  a  short  sand  beach. 

Thunder  Hole  is  at  3.9  m.  (L).  As  the  waves  dash  against  the  rock  the  water  rushes 
into  a  deep  crevice  with  a  terrific  roar,  rising  to  a  height  of  40  feet. 

From  Otter  Cliff.  4.4  m.  (L),  on  a  narrow  point  that  descends  steeply  to  the  ocean 
on  both  sides,  is  an  unmarred  marine  view. 

At  21.7  m.  (L)  is  the  entrance  to  the  Roscoe  B.  Jackson  Memorial  Labora- 
tory (open  3-5,  weekdays  except  Sat.),  where  biological  research  is  carried 
on  under  the  direction  of  Dr.  Clarence  C.  Little,  biologist,  former  president 
of  the  University  of  Maine  and  of  the  University  of  Michigan,  and  now 
managing  director  of  the  American  Society  for  the  Control  of  Cancer. 

At  21.9  m.  (L)  Acadia  National  Park  maintains  a  Motor  Camp  (free), 
equipped  with  electric  lights,  running  water,  laundry,  barracks,  and  out- 
door fireplaces. 
At  22.3  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  tarred  road. 

Right  on  this  road  is  the  Sieur  de  Monts  Springs  and  Park,  0.3  m.  In  the  National 
Park  Building  (information;  maps),  spring  water  can  be  sampled. 

Left  here  is  the  Abbe  Museum  (open  in  summer;  archaeologist  in  charge),  now  part  of 
the  park  property;  it  was  erected  and  is  maintained  through  the  generosity  of  the 
late  Dr.  Robert  Abbe,  a  New  York  surgeon,  and  his  friends.  It  contains  relics  of 
the  stone  age  of  Indian  culture. 

The  spring  (R),  reached  by  a  short  path,  is  protected  by  glass  and  a  canopy; 
named  for  the  first  proprietor  of  the  area,  the  spring  has  a  flow  of  62  gallons  a 
minute,  the  overflow  being  piped  to  supply  a  small  trout  pool. 

At  23.9  m.  (L)  is  the  south  entrance  to  Ocean  Drive  (see  above}. 
At  26.8  m.  is  a  junction  with  Cooksey  Drive. 

Left  on  Cooksey  Drive  to  the  Champlain  Monument,  0.4  m.  (R),  erected  in  com- 
memoration of  the  explorer,  Samuel  de  Champlain,  who  discovered  the  island  in 
1604. 

At  SEAL  HARBOR  (alt.  80,  Mount  Desert  Town),  28.3  m.,  are  summer 
homes  of  John  D.  Rockefeller,  Jr.,  and  Edsel  Ford. 

In  the  settlement  ASTICOU  (alt.  80,  Mount  Desert  Town),  29.5  m., 
named  for  the  Indian  chief  who  lived  in  the  area  when  the  French  settle- 
ment was  made  in  1613,  is  (R)  Thuya  Lodge  (open),  formerly  the  summer 
home  of  Joseph  H.  Curtis,  the  landscape  architect.  It  has  a  small  museum 
and  a  reading-room  with  many  books  of  interest  to  the  naturalist.  The 
extensively  landscaped  grounds  have  a  great  variety  of  trees  and  shrubs. 
From  the  lodge  is  a  broad  view  of  the  inlets  of  the  shore  and  the  Cran- 
berry Isles. 


TOUR  2:   From  Ellsworth  to  Tremont  285 

Left  at  32.2  m.  is  NORTHEAST  HARBOR  (alt.  60,  Mount  Desert  Town), 
whose  summer  residential  section  is  entered  over  Peabody  Drive;  it  has 
an  i8-hole  golf  course.  This  village  is  a  well-known  yachting  center  and 
in  August  the  Northeast  Harbor  fleet,  made  up  of  about  120  small  craft, 
holds  daily  racing  and  cruising  events  and  treasure  hunts. 

In  the  Neighborhood  House,  built  with  the  aid  of  summer  residents, 
and  maintained  through  the  proceeds  of  an  annual  vaudeville  perform- 
ance, dancing,  theatricals,  other  amusements  and  social  activities  are 
held. 

Visible  from  the  waterfront  are  the  three  Cranberry  Isles,  their  spruce- 
mantled  cliffs  rising  two  to  four  miles  offshore.  (Reached  by  mail  boats; 
variable  schedules;  inquire  at  wharf.) 

Leaving  the  dock  at  Northeast  Harbor,  the  small  boat  follows  a  southeasterly 
course  for  4  miles  between  wooded  islands  to  ISLESFORD  (alt.  40,  Cranberry 
Isles  Town,  pop.  349),  on  Little  Cranberry  Island.  In  this  little  village  is  Sawtelle 
Museum  (open  in  summer,  free),  which  contains  Professor  William  Otis  Saw- 
telle's  collection  of  maps,  documents,  pictures,  furniture,  books,  and  memorabilia 
of  all  kinds  illustrating  every  phase  of  the  history  of  the  Mount  Desert  Island 
area. 

Upon  these  islands,  named  for  the  vast  cranberry  marsh  spreading  over  200  acres 
on  Great  Cranberry,  birds  rare  to  this  latitude  come  to  nest.  Leach's  petrel,  seldom 
seen  except  far  out  at  sea,  lays  its  eggs  here.  On  the  rocky  cliffs  and  shores  large 
colonies  of  herring  gulls  and  the  common  tern  have  their  breeding  places. 

On  near-by  Sutton  Island,  the  smallest  of  the  Cranberry  Islands  and  the  one 
nearest  Northeast  Harbor,  is  the  summer  home  of  Rachel  Field,  the  locale  of  whose 
'Time  Out  of  Mind'  is  this  section. 

North  of  Northeast  Harbor,  Sargeant  Drive  is  followed  along  the  cliff  top 
beside  Somes  Sound,  one  of  the  few  natural  fiords  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 
The  narrow  inlet  extends  between  100-  to  i5o-foot  cliffs  for  5  miles,  cutting 
the  island  and  its  mountain  range  nearly  in  two. 

At  the  head  of  the  sound  the  route  swings  left  into  MOUNT  DESERT 
(alt.  40,  Mount  Desert  Town,  pop.  2022),  39.7  m.,  a  small  settlement 
generally  known  as  Somesville.  When  Governor  Bernard  came  to  inspect 
the  island  in  1762,  he  found  a  man  named  Somes  building  a  cabin  here  for 
himself. 

At  41.5  m.  (R)  the  road  skirts  Echo  Lake,  King  long  and  placid  90  feet 
above  salt  water.  On  the  left  looms  Acadia  Mountain  (alt.  680). 

At  43.6  m.  (L)  is  Saint  Sauveur  Mountain  (alt.  670),  so  named  for  the 
French  settlement  of  1613  on  Fernald's  Point  (see  below). 

At  44.8  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  tarred  road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  Fernald's  Point,  0.7  m.  The  hill  at  this  point  is  the  Site  of  the 
Settlement  of  Saint  Sauveur. 

A  party  of  French  colonists,  including  Father  Peter  Biard  and  Father  Ennemond 
Masse,  had  intended  to  establish  a  colony  on  the  Penobscot  River.  Overtaken  by  a 
storm  they  landed  in  June,  1613,  on  the  exposed  southeast  shore  of  Mount  Desert 
Island,  where,  warned  by  friendly  Indians  that  their  position  was  too  exposed,  they 
came  to  Fernald's  Point  the  same  day.  The  party  landed,  planted  a  cross  and 
celebrated  Mass,  calling  the  place  Saint  Sauveur  or  Holy  Savior. 


286  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

They  then  set  about  building  homes  and  primitive  fortifications  on  this  beautiful 
hillside  sloping  to  the  sea. 

In  September,  1613,  Captain  Samuel  Argall,  acting  under  orders  of  the  English  in 
Virginia,  destroyed  the  mission,  set  Father  Masse  and  fourteen  others  adrift,  and 
took  Father  Biard  to  Virginia;  Father  Masse  and  those  with  him  finally  reached 
Nova  Scotia. 

SOUTHWEST  HARBOR  (alt.  40,  Southwest  Harbor  Town,  pop.  888), 
45.7  m.,  is  another  resort  village  in  a  beautiful  situation. 

At  49.1  m.  the  neighborhood  (L)  bears  the  local  name  of  SEAWALL,  be- 
cause the  shore  is  a  long  natural  wall  of  boulders  that  have  been  cast  up 
by  the  sea. 

Ship  Harbor,  51.1  m.  (L),  is  a  tiny  natural  harbor  extending  to  the  edge  of 
the  road.  In  1740,  the  ship  'Grand  Design,'  of  30x5  tons,  loaded  with 
passengers  from  the  north  of  Ireland,  struck  on  Long  Ledge  outside  this 
harbor.  Legend  has  it  that  after  a  night  of  terror  they  found  that  the  ship 
had  floated  off  the  ledge  and  drifted  through  the  narrow  inlet  into  this 
refuge;  this  incident  is  said  to  be  the  source  of  the  harbor's  name. 

TREMONT  (alt.  40,  town  pop.  954),  54.1  m.,  is  in  a  town  of  the  same 
name.  This  was  originally  a  part  of  Manset;  it  was  incorporated  in  1848. 
The  highway  swings  east,  then  north  to  Seal  Cove,  overlooking  Blue- 
hill  Bay.  A  narrower  road  follows  the  western  shore  of  the  island,  return- 
ing to  the  village  of  Mount  Desert. 


TOUR    3  :     From  ELLSWORTH  to  ORLAND,  62.6  m.,  State  15 
and  State  175. 


Via  Bluehill,  Sedgwick,  Brooksville,  Penobscot. 
Two-lane  tar  and  gravel  roadbed. 

THIS  route,  looping  around  the  shores  of  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and 
interesting  of  the  many  jagged  peninsulas  on  the  coast  of  Maine,  follows 
the  winding  Union  River  south  of  Ellsworth,  skirts  lovely  Bluehill  Bay 
with  many  views  of  Mt.  Desert  Island  to  the  east,  meanders  along 
Eggemoggin  Reach  with  near-by  Deer  Island  in  view  for  several  miles, 
and  swings  gradually  north  along  Penobscot  Bay.  Many  summer 
residents  have  built  homes  in  this  area.  The  now  somnolent  villages, 
which  in  the  past  seemed  destined  for  an  active  commercial  development, 
are  in  winter  inhabited  chiefly  by  fishermen  and  retired  seamen. 

Someone  once  wrote  that  the  King's  Council  for  New  England  had  been 
guilty  of  '  confusing  carelessness '  in  making  land  grants,  but  that  censure 
is  mild  when  applied  to  the  French  and  English  authorities  in  relation  to 


TOUR  3 :   From  Ellsworth  to  Orland  287 

the  grants  covering  this  peninsula;  probably  no  other  area  on  the  coast 
had  quite  as  many  bellicose  and  persistent  claimants,  in  part,  no  doubt, 
because  of  its  strategic  position  at  the  mouth  of  the  Penobscot  River, 
which  provided  entrance  into  the  heart  of  the  rich  hinterland  of  Maine. 
Champlain  inspected  it  on  his  trip  south  from  the  Colony  at  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Croix  when  he  was  hunting  a  less  rigorous  home  for  de  Monts 
settlers;  Father  Biard  considered  it  in  1611  when  exploring  to  find  a  site 
for  the  mission  the  Marquise  de  Guerchville  proposed  to  establish;  and  it 
was  one  of  the  points  selected  by  the  Pilgrims  as  a  valuable  site  for  a  trad- 
ing post  to  obtain  the  furs  that  would  make  them  rich.  The  French  and 
English  governments  fought  for  its  possession  for  nearly  two  hundred 
years. 

State  15  branches  south  from  US  1  at  Ellsworth,  0  m.  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  c), 
which  is  also  at  a  junction  with  State  3  (see  Tour  IK). 

At  5.6  m.  (R)  is  the  Surry  Theater,  one  of  Maine's  several  summer 
theaters,  where  noted  players  appear  for  a  brief  season. 

SURRY  (alt.  40,  Surry  Town,  pop.  488),  6.5  m.,  after  its  incorporation  in 
1785,  became  a  busy  fishing  village.  While  the  inhabitants  still  do  some 
fishing  to  supplement  their  incomes,  since  the  decline  in  prosperity  of  the 
individual  fisherman,  they  have  been  largely  dependent  on  catering  to 
summer  visitors  for  their  livelihoods.  Gaily  painted  summer  cottages  line 
the  shores  of  Patten  Bay.  In  winter  this  body  of  water,  which  freezes 
over,  is  covered  with  small  tent-like  houses,  used  by  fishermen  while 
catching  smelts.  In  the  spring  the  alewives  rushing  up  Patten  Stream  to 
spawn  are  caught  by  the  townspeople  and  smoked. 

Between  Surry  and  Bluehill,  the  route  cuts  across  a  subsidiary  pen- 
insula. 

BLUE  HILL  VILLAGE  (alt.  50,  Bluehill  Town,  pop.  1439),  14  w.,  is  at 
the  head  of  a  pointed  cove  near  Blue  Hill  (alt.  940) ,  for  which  it  was  named. 
This  hill  provides  a  particularly  impressive  view  of  rugged  Mt.  Desert 
Island.  Although  the  village  is  now  chiefly  known  for  its  summer  res- 
idential colony,  it  was  a  thriving  seaport  in  the  middle  of  the  i9th  century 
and  before  that  had  had  industrial  development.  Within  40  years  of  its 
settlement  in  1762,  it  had  several  small  mills,  including  one  that  spun 
cotton  yarn,  and  the  lanes  and  harbor  were  echoing  all  day  long  with  the 
steady  pounding  of  hammers  and  sledges  in  the  shipyards.  Another 
source  of  early  prosperity  was  the  mining  of  minerals  in  Bluehill,  chiefly 
copper,  though  occasional  small  deposits  of  gold  were  discovered  and 
some  chalk.  The  copper  deposits,  though  not  entirely  exhausted,  are  no 
longer  mined  because  of  western  competition. 

One  of  the  notable  citizens  of  the  town  was  Jonathan  Fisher,  to  whom 
Mary  Ellen  Chase  in  'A  Goodly  Heritage'  devoted  two  chapters.  In 
1796,  four  years  after  his  graduation  from  Harvard  College,  Fisher  be- 
came the  first  pastor  of  the  Congregational  Church,  which  he  served  for 
40  years.  He  was  a  man  of  broad  interests  and  unusual  energy.  The 
Jonathan  Fisher  House  (L),  Main  St.,  was  designed  and  in  part  built  by 


288  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

him;  he  made  the  paint  for  it  from  yellow  ocher  he  discovered  near-by,  and 
constructed  almost  all  the  furnishings,  including  a  clock  that  ran  perfectly 
for  50  years.  Not  far  from  the  house  is  his  Windmill,  which  provided  the 
power  for  machines  that  he  devised  for  sawing  wood,  removing  stones 
from  the  ground,  and  for  splitting  straws  used  in  hatmaking. 

In  order  that  all  parishioners  might  understand  his  weekly  texts  —  and 
possibly  for  sheer  joy  in  intellectual  exercise  —  he  read  them  in  Hebrew, 
Latin,  French,  Greek,  and  Aramaic.  When  he  died  he  left  a  volume  of 
poetry  for  each  of  his  children.  The  rugged  hills  of  the  peninsula  were  no 
impediment  to  the  discharge  of  his  clerical  duties;  it  was  not  unusual  for 
him  to  walk  35  miles  to  perform  a  baptism  or  to  comfort  a  parishioner  who 
was  in  distress. 

It  is  not  surprising  that  a  town  so  long  under  the  guidance  of  this  in- 
tellectual man  should  in  later  years  have  been  congenial  to  distinguished 
artists,  authors,  and  musicians. 

The  musicians  of  the  summer  colony  today  hold  weekly  concerts  in 
Kneisel  Hall,  on  Pleasant  St.,  formerly  the  studio  of  Dr.  Franz  Kneisel 
(1865-1926),  the  Roumanian  violinist  who  was  concert-master  of  the 
Boston  Symphony  Orchestra  (1895-1903)  and  founder  of  the  Kneisel 
Quartet,  at  one  time  the  foremost  chamber-music  organization  in  the 
United  States. 

Mary  Ellen  Chase,  born  here  in  1887,  has  preserved  the  memories  of  her 
childhood  in  this  delightful  old  seaport  in  'A  Goodly  Heritage';  the 
stories  she  heard  in  her  youth  were  beyond  doubt  an  inspiration  for  her 
novel  'Mary  Peters,'  a  story  of  life  and  adventure  on  this  coast. 

State  175  is  now  followed  south  across  another  small  inlet  of  Bluehill 
Bay. 

BLUEHILL  FALLS  (alt.  25,  Bluehill  Town),  17.2  m.  Here  is  the  former 
Summer  Home  of  Ethelbert  Nevin  (1862-1901),  the  composer,  which  is  now 
(1937)  occupied  by  his  widow. 

South  of  Bluehill  Falls  for  about  8  miles  the  highway  runs  close  to  the 
western  shore  of  beautiful  Bluehill  Bay. 

At  17.9  m.  (L),  on  the  shore  of  the  bay,  are  Shell  Heaps,  recently  explored, 
that  are  relics  of  the  days  when  the  Indians  came  from  inland  to  lay  in  a 
winter  supply  of  fish. 

SOUTH  BLUEHILL  (alt.  60,  Bluehill  Town),  18.2  m.,  is  the  home 
(1937)  of  Captain  Otis  M.  Candage,  who  now  has  carved  and  built  more 
than  100  miniature  squareriggers  and  200  miniature  sloops  and  schooners 
since  he  gave  up  his  boat  25  years  ago. 

State  175  swings  across  the  head  of  the  narrow  peninsula  to  BROOKLIN 
(alt.  100,  Brooklin  Town,  pop.  782),  26.3  m. 

Left  from  Brooklin  on  a  narrow  dirt  road  to  Naskeag  Point,  3  m.,  the  far  outer  tip  of 
the  neck  that  is  included  in  the  township  of  Brooklin.  In  July,  1778,  William  Reed, 
working  in  a  field  near  the  shore  here,  saw  the  British  sloop  'Gage*  coming  to 
anchor  in  a  cove,  preparing  to  land  men.  Hastily  procuring  his  musket  and  sending 


TOUR  3:   From  Ellsworth  to  Orland  289 

word  to  neighbors,  he  crept  near  the  party  of  60  men  that  was  arriving  in  small 
boats  and  fired,  killing  two  before  they  reached  land.  Fellow  townsmen  arrived, 
dragging  an  old  swivel  gun,  which  they  filled  with  nails,  filings,  and  pebbles,  and 
fired.  The  landing  force  was  at  a  disadvantage  and  returned  to  the  sloop  after  two 
men  had  been  captured  and  five  badly  wounded;  before  they  left,  however,  they 
fired  six  houses  and  three  barns,  and  seized  some  calves  and  hogs.  Not  being  pre- 
pared to  combat  the  inhabitants,  whose  irregular  fighting  methods  had  given  the 
impression  of  more  numbers  and  weapons  than  were  actually  there,  the  invaders 
came  ashore  the  following  day  under  a  flag  of  truce  and  obtained  the  release  of  the 
captured  men  by  returning  the  cattle. 

Between  Brooklin  and  Sargentville  State  175,  known  as  Eggemoggin 
Reach  Drive,  provides  delightful  views  of  the  Reach  and  of  Deer  Island. 

HAVEN  (alt.  50,  Brooklin  Town),  27.2  m.,  is  part  of  the  chain  of  resort 
villages  along  the  Reach. 

SEDGWICK  (alt.  50,  Sedgwick  Town,  pop.  699),  31.4  m.,  is  a  village  of 
neat  white  houses.  The  Town  Hall  (R),  a  handsome  white  structure  on  a 
hill  overlooking  the  village,  was  built  as  a  church  in  1837,  replacing  the 
first  church,  built  in  1794.  Four  columns  ornament  the  front  entrance  and 
a  weather-vane  surmounts  the  attractive  domed  cupola.  Daniel  Merrill, 
first  pastor  of  the  early  church,  received  an  annual  salary  of  £50.  That 
the  town  was  not  particularly  prosperous  in  the  early  days  is  shown  by  the 
official  records  which  reveal  that  all  unattached  and  unmarried  females 
who  could  not  find  anyone  to  undertake  their  support  were  warned  to 
leave  town. 

SARGENTVILLE  (alt.  no,  Sedgwick  Town),  34.6  m.,  has  a  ferry 
(variable  schedule;  inquire  at  Guild's  Wharf)  running  to  near-by  Deer 
Island  lying  1.7  miles  off  shore  (see  Island  Tours).  A  new  bridge  (1938) 
will  connect  Sargentville  and  Deer  Isle. 

DEER  ISLAND  is  bisected  by  a  motor  road,  State  172,  that  runs  to  DEER  ISLE 
(alt.  30,  Deer  Isle  Town,  pop.  1266),  4.5  m.,  on  a  wide  cove  of  Penobscot  Bay. 

At  10.1  m.  is  STONINGTON  (alt.  50,  Stonington  Town,  pop.  1418),  a  village  in 
the  center  of  the  south  shore  of  the  island  (see  Island  Tours). 

At  Sargentville  State  175  turns  due  north  across  the  head  of  the  peninsula 
covered  by  Brooksville. 

In  a  charming  grove  (R)  at  the  crest  of  Caterpillar  Hill,  36.7  m.,  is  a  park- 
ing space  and  picnic  ground  from  which  is  a  broad  and  far-reaching  view. 
Below  the  hill  is  Walker  Pond  and  beyond  it  are  the  island-sprinkled 
waters  of  Penobscot  Bay. 

PENOBSCOT  (alt.  25,  Penobscot  Town,  pop.  708),  48.6  m.,  is  a  ship- 
shape village  that  opens  the  doors  of  its  attractive  little  homes  to  summer 
visitors.  This  township  is  one  of  the  few  where  stories  of  buried  treasure 
have  been  justified.  In  1840  a  fortunate  resident  found  about  2000  coins 
in  a  hillside  near  Bagaduce  River;  because  most  of  the  coins  were  French, 
though  there  were  Spanish  pieces  of  eight  and  25  pine  tree  shillings  and 
one  sixpence,  dated  1652,  it  was  believed  that  the  money  might  have  been 
buried  by  the  family  of  de  Castin  when  they  left  for  Canada  in  1704;  it  is 
quite  as  possible,  however,  that  this  was  pirate  loot.  The  coins  are  now 
hi  the  possession  of  the  Maine  Historical  Society  at  Portland. 


290  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

At  50.5  m.  (L)  the  route  follows  the  western  shore  of  the  small-mouthed 
triangular  bay  on  which  Penobscot  lies. 

At  53.9  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  202. 

Left  on  State  202  is  CASTINE  (alt.  80,  Castine  Town,  pop.  726),  4.2  m.,  which  has 
boat  connection  with  Belfast  and  Islesboro  {variable  schedule;  inquire  at  wharf). 
As  a  popular  resort  this  old  village  now  has  an  i8-hole  golf  course.  The  more  than 
100  markers  at  various  points  indicate  the  pride  that  the  residents  take  in  their 
historic  background. 

Castine  was  for  nearly  two  hundred  years  the  center  of  a  struggle  by  three  nations 
for  control  of  the  peninsula.  In  1629  the  King's  Council  for  New  England  granted 
permission  to  the  Pilgrims  to  send  Edward  Ashley  to  establish  a  trading  post 
at  this  point,  then  called  Pentagoet.  The  post  was,  however,  destroyed  in  1631 
by  the  same  vigilant  la  Tour  who  wiped  out  the  Vines-Allerton  post  at  Machias. 
As  Governor  Bradford,  first  of  the  long  line  of  Massachusetts  men  to  succumb  to 
the  vice  of  history- writing,  told  the  story:  '  . . .  their  house  at  Penobscot  was 
robbed  by  the  French,  and  all  their  goods  of  any  worth  were  carried  away.'  The 
Englishman  remained,  however,  and  brought  in  new  goods  to  be  exchanged  for 
furs.  Meanwhile,  Richelieu  in  France  had  sent  out  a  new  governor  for  Acadia  with 
specific  orders  to  keep  the  English  out  of  the  country  east  of  Pemaquid  and  in  1635 
Sieur  d'Aulney  de  Charnisay,  who  had  been  given  the  task  of  carrying  out  this 
order,  learned  of  the  Pentagoet  post  from  Indians  and  arrived  to  destroy  it.  The 
Frenchman,  for  some  reason,  resorted  to  the  formality  of  forcing  the  agent  to  give 
him  a  bill  of  sale  for  the  goods  and  left  the  members  of  the  post  with  '  their  shalop 
and  some  victualls  to  bring  them  home.'  The  Plymouth  colonists  were  outraged  by 
this  and  appealed  to  the  Massachusetts  Bay  colonists  for  help;  but  the  Bay  leaders 
merely  gave  them  their  blessing  and  permitted  theni  to  hire  a  3oo-ton  ship  and  its 
crew.  Miles  Standish  and  20  men  accompanied  the  little  ship  in  a  bark,  giving  the 
captain  advice  on  how  he  should  proceed;  but  the  captain,  probably  unwilling  to 
risk  damage  to  his  boat,  persisted  in  using  up  his  ammunition  by  firing  from  a  dis- 
tance and  after  inflicting  only  a  little  damage  the  ship  and  bark  left  Pentagoet. 

The  Pilgrims  again  tried  in  vain  to  get  assistance  from  the  Bay  Colony,  warning  the 
members  of  the  menace  of  the  encroachments  of  the  French;  the  leaders  in  Boston 
not  only  declined  to  act  but  later  on  established  friendly  relations  with  the  French 
on  the  coast.  Bradford  says  that  bay  traders  even  furnished  the  French  here  with 
'Poweder  and  shott'  because  it  was  to  'their  profite.' 

Meanwhile  a  Capuchin  mission  had  been  established  here  and  when  in  1646  the 
Jesuit  Father  Druillettes  came  down  from  Canada  to  establish  a  mission  at  Nan- 
rantsouak  (see  Tour  10)  he  visited  the  fathers  and  received  advice  from  them.  In 
1648  they  built  a  Chapel  of  Our  Lady  of  Hope  on  the  site  of  the  present  village 
church  of  that  name;  in  1863  a  copper  sheet  was  found  in  the  ground  near  the  place 
with  this  inscription: '  1648,  8  Junii,  Frater  Leo  Parisiensis  in  Capuciorum  Missione, 
posui  hoc  fundamentum  in  honorem  nostrate  Dominae  Sanctae  Spei.' 

A  few  years  later  the  English,  under  Cromwell's  orders,  took  the  place  but  they  held 
it  briefly,  the  French  regaining  possession  in  1670.  In  1673  Flemish  pirates  assailed 
the  fort  and  kidnaped  the  governor. 

Meanwhile  there  had  appeared  on  the  scene  Jean- Vincent  d'Abbadie,  Baron  de  St. 
Castin  (1652-1717).  Castin,  as  he  is  usually  called,  had  been  in  Quebec.  Apparently 
neglected  and  deprived  of  the  use  of  his  wealth,  the  youngster  at  15  started  out  in  a 
canoe  with  three  Abnaki  Indians  to  inspect  a  royal  grant  that  stood  in  his  name  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Penobscot.  Pentagoet  pleased  him  and  he  determined  to  stay 
there;  when  in  1673  the  governor  of  the  fort  was  carried  away,  Castin,  then  21 
years  old,  stepped  into  his  place.  The  neglected  lad,  having  lived  with  the  Indians, 
had  adopted  many  of  their  ways  of  life  —  even  to  the  extent  of  marrying  the 
daughter  of  a  chief.  By  this  time  the  French  had  begun  to  use  the  Indians  to  fight 
the  English  and  they  approved  the  establishment  of  friendly  relations  with  the 
aborigines,  but  it  is  apparent  from  the  rebukes  Castin  received  that  the  govern- 
ment considered  he  was  carrying  the  business  rather  far  in  this  last  respect. 


TOUR  3:   From  Ellsworth  to  Orland  291 

Meantime  he  had  in  1675  driven  Dutch  attackers  away  and  in  1687,  when  the 
English  in  another  attempt  to  take  the  place  ordered  him  away,  he  had  ignored  the 
order.  The  following  year  Sir  Edmund  Andros  came  up  to  drive  him  away  and, 
while  Castin  was  off  on  a  fishing  trip,  started  pillaging.  By  1693,  when  it  seemed 
that  the  French  were  giving  up  their  claim  to  this  territory,  Castin  made  some  sort 
of  arrangement  with  the  English  to  accept  the  situation;  but  when  Iberville  three 
years  later  went  down  to  attack  Pemaquid,  Castin  led  a  band  of  Indians  to  attack 
from  the  rear.  He  was  ordered  back  to  France  in  1 701  and  left  expecting  to  return. 

The  little  town  had  a  period  of  peace  until  the  Revolutionary  War;  in  1779,  the 
British  took  it,  remaining  till  1783.  The  colonists  made  one  attempt  to  take  it 
back  in  an  ill-starred  expedition  of  1779  that  blighted  Paul  Revere's  hopes  of  a 
military  career  and  forced  him  to  return  to  the  unromantic  job  of  casting  cannon 
and  the  like  for  the  army.  There  was  a  second  British  occupation,  this  time  of 
eight  months,  during  the  War  of  1812. 

The  Bartlett  House  (open),  Perkins  St.  (1803),  is  a  two-story  yellow  house  once 
occupied  by  the  British,  and  is  distinguished  by  its  large  open  fireplaces  and  at- 
tractive staircase. 

The  Wheeler  House  (1810)  (private),  opposite  the  Bartlett  House,  was  occupied  by 
the  British  paymaster  in  early  days.  Clapboards  cover  the  bricks  of  this  Colonial 
structure. 

On  Perkins  St.,  near  the  shore,  is  the  Site  of  Fort  Pentagoel,  erected  by  the  French 
in  1635  and  burned  in  1722.  It  was  originally  a  trading  post  built  during  the  winter 
of  1613.  It  was  later  called  the  French  Fort  and  was  held  by  d'Aulney,  de  Castin, 
and  others. 

The  Wilson  Museum  (1921)  (open  10-12  and  1-4  weekdays),  also  on  Perkins  St.,  is  a 
red-brick  building  containing  anthropological  and  geological  as  well  as  Colonial  and 
Revolutionary  period  collections.  Dr.  J.  Howard  Wilson,  archeologist,  who  with 
his  mother,  the  late  Mrs.  Cassine  G.  Wilson,  gave  the  museum  to  Castine,  is 
director  and  curator. 

Fort  Madison  (open),  on  Perkins  St.,  is  yet  another  relic  of  the  repeated  military 
occupations  of  this  delightful  old  town.  This  fort,  occupied  by  the  British  during 
the  War  of  1812  but  built  by  the  Americans  in  1811,  has  been  variously  called  Fort 
Castin,  Fort  Porter,  and  United  States  Fort.  It  was  rebuilt  and  occupied  during  the 
Civil  War. 

At  various  points  in  the  village  are  vestiges  of  earthworks  thrown  up  at  one  time  or 
another  during  the  nearly  two  hundred  years  in  which  four  governments  sought  to 
hold  the  place. 

Fort  George  (open),  in  Witherle  Park,  was  erected  by  the  British  in  1779.  Near-by 
are  batteries  built  by  the  British  in  1814-15,  at  the  same  time  they  built  the  canal 
that  crosses  the  peninsula  at  its  narrowest  point. 

The  Eastern  State  Normal  School  Buildings  are  opposite  the  park. 

The  Johnston  House  (1805)  (open  at  discretion  of  owner),  Upper  Main  St.,  is  one  of 

the  most  attractive  early  houses  in  this  historic  community.    It  is  notable  for  its 

fine  self-supporting  staircase.    Of  Federal  design,  the  house  has  been  restored 

recently.    Its  beautiful  doorway  under  a  Palladian  window  is  somewhat  marred 

by  latticework. 

The  Parson-Mason  House  (1765)  (private),  Maine  and  Court  Sts.,  a  two-story 

yellow  house,  said  to  be  the  oldest  in  the  town,  has  been  considerably  altered  since 

it  was  built. 

The  Old  Meeting-House  (1790),  on  Court  St.,  an  attractive  white  structure  with 

belfry  and  spire,  is  one  of  the  oldest  churches  in  Maine  and  is  now  owned  by  the 

Unitarian  Society.  It  was  remodeled  in  1831. 

The  Whiting  House  (1812)  (private),  on  Court  St.,  is  another  Castine  home  that  saw 
British  occupancy.  For  many  years  a  window  pane  in  the  house  bore  a  crude  draw- 
ing of  the  Stars  and  Stripes  upside  down  with  the  inscription  '  Yankee  Doodle  upside 
down,'  scratched  with  the  diamond  of  a  British  lieutenant. 


292  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

The  Old  Courthouse,  on  Court  St.  opposite  the  Town  Hall,  is  now  the  town  library. 
The  Whitney  House  (about  1800),  near  the  Common,  the  Dyer  House  (about  1805), 
in  Dyer  Lane,  and  the  Abbott  House  (about  1800),  on  Battle  Ave.,  are  among  the 
many  early  Castine  houses  with  the  traditional  central  halls,  wide  staircases,  and 
massive  doors  with  leaded  glass  fan-lights  and  side-lights. 

The  route  now  follows  the  western  shore  of  the  narrow  Castine  Peninsula 
along  Penobscot  Bay. 

NORTH  CASTINE  (alt.  no,  Castine  Town),  55.8  m.  The  Old  Devereaux 
House  (R) ,  opposite  a  lobster  pound,  is  a  low-posted  white  house  with 
central  chimney,  built  in  the  lySo's.  The  dormers  were  a  later  addition. 
During  the  War  of  1812,  the  Americans  hid  powder  in  a  closet  of  the 
house.  One  day  while  Mrs.  Devereaux  was  ironing,  a  party  of  British 
came  to  search  the  house.  They  failed  to  discover  the  powder  for  Mrs. 
Devereaux  covered  the  closet  with  her  freshly  ironed  clothes. 

ORLAND  (alt.  180,  Orland  Town,  pop.  891),  62.6  m.  (see  Tour  IK). 


TOUR     4  :     From  HOULTON  to  NEW  HAMPSHIRE  LINE 
(Shelburne),  279.1  m.,    US  2. 


Via  Houlton,  Island  Falls,  Lincoln,  West  Enfield,  Milford,  Old  Town,  Orono, 
Bangor,  Hermon,  Newport,  Skowhegan,  Norridgewock,  Farmington,  Wilton, 
Dixfield,  Mexico,  Rumford,  Bethel,  and  Gilead. 

Mostly  two-lane  macadamized  roadbed,  open  all  year. 

CROSSING  Maine,  between  New  Brunswick  and  New  Hampshire,  US  2 
passes  through  five  counties.  The  northern  part  of  the  route  traverses  the 
rolling  potato  fields  of  central  Aroostook  County,  west  of  which  rise  great 
stands  of  birch,  maple,  and  beech  trees,  full  of  wild  game.  A  network  of 
lakes,  rivers,  and  streams  teems  with  salmon,  trout,  bass,  pickerel,  and 
other  game  fish.  Between  Island  Falls  and  Mattawamkeag  lie  40  miles  of 
desolate,  wild  country,  from  the  wooded  land  of  Silver  Ridge  Plantation 
to  the  wide  stretches  of  the  Mattawamkeag  Swamp.  South  of  Mattawam- 
keag the  road  parallels  the  Penobscot  River,  running  through  farming 
country  and  lumbering  centers.  Near  Lincoln  and  in  southern  Aroostook 
County,  the  stark  grandeur  of  Katahdin,  Maine's  highest  peak,  is  visible. 

Between  Skowhegan  and  Rumford  lies  a  region  of  lakes  with  the  ancient 
forests  coming  down  to  their  shores,  and  the  mountains  of  the  Rangeley 
group  rising  to  the  north.  Between  Rumford,  thriving  center  of  the  pulp- 
wood  industry,  and  Gilead  the  road  winds  along  the  Androscoggin  River, 
and  past  scenic  hills  and  mountains  to  the  New  Hampshire  Line. 

HOULTON  (alt.  340,  Houlton  Town,  pop.  6865)  (see  ffOULTQN),  0  m., 


TOUR  4 :   From  Houlton  to  Shelburne  293 

is  at  the  junction  with  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  e).  East  of  Houlton,  2.5  m., 
is  the  Canadian  Boundary  Line,  11.5  miles  west  of  Woodstock,  N.B. 

At  3  m.  is  the  Trans-Atlantic  Receiving  Station  (L)  (open)  of  the  American 
Telephone  and  Telegraph  Company,  the  first  long  wave  receiving  station 
of  its  kind.  Oceanic  service  was  begun  January  7,  1927;  at  present,  one- 
third  of  all  traffic  routed  by  way  of  England  is  handled  here.  This  in- 
cludes stations  as  far  away  as  Australia.  As  part  of  the  first  international 
telephone  circuit  operated  in  connection  with  the  telephone  system  of 
Great  Britain,  the  station  was  established  at  Houlton  because  of  its  geo- 
graphical position;  that  is,  its  comparative  closeness  to  England,  and  its 
distance  from  the  Equator,  source  of  static  disturbances;  also  it  was  the 
furthest  point  north  in  the  United  States  reached  by  reliable  telephone 
wire  service.  This  station  supplements  the  trans-wave  radio  telephone 
station  of  the  Bell  system  in  New  Jersey.  It  receives  the  transmissions 
from  the  British  long  wave  station  at  Rugby,  England. 

LUDLOW  (alt.  510,  Ludlow  Town,  pop.  361),  9.9  m.,  single  village  of  this 
farming  township,  consists  of  a  cluster  of  dwellings  along  the  highway  on 
the  northern  shore  of  Cochran  Lake,  whose  placid  surface  is  broken  by  the 
swirl  and  splash  of  pickerel  and  salmon. 

SMYRNA  MILLS  (alt.  579,  Smyrna  Town,  pop.  442),  16.5  m.,  a  potato- 
raising  center,  lies  deep  in  the  valley  on  the  banks  of  the  east  branch  of  the 
Mattawamkeag  River. 

DYER  BROOK  (alt.  620,  Dyer  Brook  Town,  pop.  262),  20.3  m.  Several 
homes  grouped  around  potato  warehouses  near  the  railroad  station  com- 
prise this  small  village. 

Many  of  the  barns  in  this  area  were  erected  by  barn  raisings.  Accumu- 
lating all  materials,  the  proprietor  would  set  a  date,  and  farmers  from 
the  township  and  near-by  territory  would  come  and  set  to  with  a  will, 
raising  and  boarding  the  frame  work  amidst  much  friendly  laughter  and 
shouting.  At  sundown  the  men  and  their  families  gathered  near-by  for 
a  hearty  meal  laid  on  rough  board  tables  beneath  large  shade  trees;  it  was 
customary  for  the  young  folks  to  dance  after  supper  in  the  new  barn  to  the 
fiddling  of  square  dances,  jigs,  and  reels. 

In  the  days  when  Dyer  Brook  was  an  active  logging  center,  some  of  the 
villagers  believed  that  if  a  man  went  seven  nights  at  the  same  hour  to  the 
same  place,  the  Devil  would  appear  and  talk  with  him  on  the  seventh 
night.  There  is  a  tale  to  the  effect  that  a  log  driver  called  Jack-the-Ripper 
carried  out  the  conditions,  and  held  converse  with  Satan  who  warned  him 
to  stay  off  the  logs  the  following  day  to  avoid  an  accident.  Ignoring  the 
warning,  Jack  jumped  carelessly  from  log  to  log,  working  his  way  to  the 
center  of  the  drive.  As  he  did  so,  a  streak  of  red  fire  in  the  form  of  a  pick- 
axe flamed  up  between  the  logs,  a  reminder  of  the  warning.  He  went 
hastily  ashore.  From  then  on  Jack  was  thought  by  his  neighbors  to  be  in 
league  with  the  Devil.  When  his  axe  chopped,  another  was  always  heard 
in  accompaniment.  He  was  often  heard  conversing  with  a  voice  whose 
owner  was  invisible.  Once  he  drove  his  axe  into  the  hard  trunk  of  a  tree 


294  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

with  such  force  the  handle  split.  When  he  reached  out  to  grasp  the 
handle  again,  it  became  whole  in  his  hands.  Conclusive  proof  to  residents 
of  Dyer  Brook  that  Jack-the-Ripper  had  acquired  supernatural  powers 
came  when,  after  the  combined  efforts  of  several  woodsmen  had  failed, 
Jack,  single-handed,  though  unobserved,  cleared  a  camp  site  of  a  huge 
tree  that  had  blown  across  it  during  a  storm. 

ISLAND  FALLS  (alt.  450,  Island  Falls  Town,  pop.  1455),  27.5  m.,  trad- 
ing place  for  near-by  farmers  and  center  of  a  large  area  frequented  by 
hunters  and  fishermen,  has  a  lumber  mill,  a  tannery,  and  a  woodenware 
factory.  The  township  contains  much  wooded  wild  land,  two  lakes,  and 
numerous  streams. 

Northeast  of  Island  Falls  is  Pleasant  Lake,  one  of  Theodore  Roosevelt's 
favorite  hunting  and  fishing  spots.  Several  anecdotes  are  still  told  about 
him  and  his  guide,  Bill  Sewall,  a  descendant  of  the  first  settler  in  the  dis- 
trict. Driving  up  a  rocky  backwoods  road  one  early  spring,  Roosevelt 
jokingly  asked  how  one  could  tell  the  roads  from  rivers.  '  No  beaver  dams 
in  the  roads/  was  Sewall's  reply. 

South  of  Island  Falls,  US  2  passes  through  20  miles  of  the  Macwahoc 
woods  to  enter  Township  i,  Range  5.  Through  this  township  the  route 
parallels  Molunkus  Stream. 

MACWAHOC  (Macwahoc  Plantation,  pop.  163),  56.5  m.,  is  a  tiny  set- 
tlement, the  southernmost  in  Aroostook  County  on  US  2. 

At  63.8  m.  the  highway  traverses  a  Bridge  built  on  the  unusual  base  of 
five  bridges  that  have  sunk  successively  in  Mattawamkeag  Swamp. 

MATTAWAMKEAG  (alt.  212,  Mattawamkeag  Town,  pop.  461),  66.3  m., 
with  extensive  train  yards,  is  a  junction  for  the  Maine  Central  R.R.  and 
Canadian  Pacific  R.R.  at  the  point  where  the  Mattawamkeag  River  flows 
into  the  Penobscot.  Lumbering  was  once  carried  on  extensively  in  this 
region. 

In  Mattawamkeag  is  a  junction  with  State  11  (see  Tour  6). 

WINN  (alt.  240,  Winn  Town,  pop.  560),  68.8  m.,  a  little  town  clinging  to 
the  eastern  bank  of  the  swirling  Penobscot  River,  was  head  of  river 
navigation  in  the  days  when  travel  into  this  area  was  chiefly  by  boat. 

LINCOLN  (alt.  174,  Lincoln  Town,  pop.  2970),  79.6  m.,  named  for 
Governor  Enoch  Lincoln,  is  a  busy  agricultural  center  in  Penobscot 
County,  and  the  only  settlement  of  size  between  Houlton  and  Old  Town. 

Its  most  active  industrial  establishment  is  the  Lincolnsfield  Woolen  Mill 
(visitors  by  permit) ,  which  manufactures  woolen  blankets,  suitings,  and  the 
like. 

Lincoln  lies  near  Mattanawcook  Pond,  one  of  a  chain  of  lakes  and  ponds 
running  diagonally  across  the  State.  It  is  used  for  swimming  and  boating, 
and  is  a  popular  resort  of  local  fishermen. 

WEST  ENFIELD  (alt.  130,  Enfield  Town,  pop.  1138),  91.6  m.,  has  the 
cutting  of  pulp  wood  as  its  chief  industry. 


TOUR  4 :   From  Houlton  to  Shelburne  295 

Here  is  a  junction  with  State  11  (see  Tour  8). 

PASSADUMKEAG  (Ind.:  'quick  water')  (alt.  140,  Passadumkeag 
Town,  pop.  325),  96.6  m.,  is  on  the  northern  bank  of  Passadumkeag 
Stream  at  its  confluence  with  the  Penobscot. 

Specimens  of  Red  Paint  artifacts  have  been  found  near  the  settlement 
(see  Earliest  Inhabitants). 

OLAMON  (Ind.:  'red paint')  (alt.  i28,Greenbush  Town, pop. 3 78),  101.1 
m.,  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Olamon  Stream  as  it  joins  the  Penobscot  River. 

MILFORD  (alt.  115,  Milford  Town,  pop.  1203),  114.6  m.,  is  separated 
from  Old  Town  by  the  Penobscot  River  and  Old  Town  Falls.  The  river  at 
this  point  was  the  scene  of  great  activity  in  the  heyday  of  lumbering. 
Huge  sawmills  in  the  two  communities  handled  millions  of  logs  from  up 
river  and  each  spring  the  West  Branch  drive  was  the  center  of  interest. 
When  the  logs  guided  downstream  by  river  drivers  reached  the  booms, 
placed  about  two  miles  upstream,  200  or  more  men  who  had  been  waiting 
in  '  driving  boats '  raced  down  the  Penobscot  to  Milf ord  or  Old  Town  with 
the  news.  The  approach  of  the  winners  was  heralded  by  the  firing  of  a 
cannon  on  Indian  Island,  and  a  general  celebration  followed. 

The  highway  here  swings  right,  crossing  the  Penobscot. 

OLD  TOWN  (alt.  115,  pop.  7266),  115.3  m.,  was  formerly  a  lumbering 
center  (see  above),  and  on  the  line  of  the  State's  first  railroad,  which  was 
built  in  1836  and  extended  between  Bangor  and  the  iron  works  on  the 
Penobscot  River. 

Industrial  activities  today  include  the  manufacture  of  woolens,  wood 
products,  paper,  pulp,  and  toilet  preparations.  Better  known,  however, 
are  the  canoes  manufactured  here  and  sent  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  At 
the  Old  Town  Canoe  Company  Factory  (open  to  public),  the  entire  process 
of  modern  canoe  construction  is  demonstrated  from  the  steaming  and 
bending  of  the  bows  and  ribs  to  the  varnishing  of  the  finished  product. 
The  presence  of  Indians  working  with  modern  equipment  recalls  the 
romance  that  hovered  over  the  silvery  birch  craft  so  skillfully  fashioned 
by  their  forefathers;  they  bring  to  mind  the  lines  of  Hiawatha  in  Long- 
Bellow's  beautiful  poem : 

'I  a  light  canoe  will  build  me, 
That  will  float  upon  the  water, 
Like  a  yellow  leaf  in  Autumn, 
Like  a  yellow  water  lily.' 

On  INDIAN  ISLAND  (reached  by  row-boat  ferry:  fare  b£)  in  the  Penobscot  River, 
off  Old  Town,  is  an  Indian  Reservation  (visitors  welcome),  the  home  of  the  remaining 
members  of  the  Penobscot  tribe,  numbering  about  400,  a  fragment  of  the  once 
powerful  Abnaki  Nation.  Although  they  neither  vote  nor  pay  taxes,  the  Penobscots 
own  the  island  under  State  supervision  and  send  a  non-voting  representative  to 
the  Maine  Legislature. 

The  village,  which  centers  around  the  main  street  extending  back  from  the  wharf, 
has  a  drab  appearance,  only  the  church,  school,  and  parochial  residence  being 
painted.  The  Indians  live  in  unplastered,  weather-beaten  structures,  though  the 
meagerly  furnished  rooms  are  scrupulously  neat. 


296  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Although  some  of  the  Indians  are  employed  at  Old  Town  mills,  they  do  not  like  to 
work  in  factories,  and  the  men  usually  find  employment  in  the  woods,  on  the  river, 
and  as  guides  during  the  hunting  and  fishing  seasons.  Each  spring  a  great  many  of 
the  Penobscots  leave  the  island  for  the  seashore  and  mountain  resorts,  where  they 
camp  for  the  summer,  selling  baskets,  handiwork,  and  curios  to  tourists.  Both  men 
and  women  are  skilled  in  basket-weaving  and  the  products  of  their  handiwork  are 
for  sale  in  the  shops  on  the  island  and  near  the  ferry-landing  in  Old  Town. 

Many  of  the  old  customs  are  still  retained.  During  the  tribal  celebrations  (visitors 
welcome),  held  several  times  a  year,  centuries  slip  away  and  once  again  the  island 
rings  with  the  chanting  of  old  songs,  and  flashes  with  the  brilliance  of  the  painted 
and  ornamented  men  twisting  and  writhing  in  ancient  ceremonial  dances. 

Wooden  crosses  mark  most  of  the  poorly  kept  graves  in  the  Two  Cemeteries  on  the 
island.  The  Catholic  cemetery  (1688)  contains  the  remains  of  John  Attean  (1778- 
1858),  governor  of  the  tribe  for  over  40  years;  John  Neptune  (1767-1865),  lieuten- 
ant-governor for  half  a  century;  and  other  dignitaries  of  the  tribe.  Among  those 
buried  in  the  other  cemetery  are  Andrew  Sockalexis,  runner  and  member  of  the 
American  team  in  the  Fifth  Olympiad  at  Stockholm,  Sweden,  in  1912,  and  his 
brother  Louis,  Holy  Cross  graduate,  and  baseball  player  on  the  Cleveland  Amer- 
ican League  Club. 

In  a  small,  tree-shaded  grassy  plot  on  the  island  stands  a  Monument  to  the  Penobscot 
Indians  Killed  in  the  Revolution.  A  bronze  tablet  on  the  monument  lists  the  names 
of  the  men  who  fought  with  the  Continental  forces. 

A  Catholic  mission  was  established  on  the  island  in  the  i7th  century  and  in  the 
church  here  that  romantic  figure,  the  Baron  Jean- Vincent  de  Castin  (see  Tour  3), 
took  the  daughter  of  Chief  Madockawando  for  his  bride,  likely  a  diplomatic  al- 
liance. About  80  years  ago  the  old  church  was  replaced  by  the  present  frame  build- 
ing in  which  hangs  a  Picture  of  the  Crucifixion  painted  many  years  ago  by  Paul 
Orson,  an  Indian  artist  who  used  the  juice  of  berries  for  his  colors  and  the  tail  of  an 
animal  for  a  brush. 

Princess  Watawasa,  a  singer  and  dancer,  who  assumed  her  title  for  stage  purposes, 
is  a  native  of  the  island.  Another  well-known  Penobscot  is  Chief  Needahbeh, 
known  as  Roland  Nelson  at  the  New  York  Sportsmen's  Shows. 

ORONO  (alt.  80,  Orono  Town,  pop.  3338),  120.6  m.,  home  of  the  State 
university,  is  an  industrial  as  well  as  a  college  town.  Canvas  products, 
oars,  paddles,  paper,  and  pulp  are  manufactured  in  this  former  lumbering 
center. 

The  buildings  and  grounds  of  the  University  of  Maine  (L)  (open)  stretch  for 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  along  the  northeastern  outskirts  of  the  village. 
The  5oo-acre  campus,  with  its  well-kept  lawns  and  shade  trees,  overlooks 
the  Stillwater  River.  So  well  hidden  by  trees  are  the  modern  brick  and 
stone  college  buildings,  some  of  which  have  Georgian  and  Gothic  features, 
that  no  single  one  dominates  the  campus.  Fraternity  chapter  houses  of  no 
architectural  style  line  College  Road  from  the  campus  south  to  the  village 
center. 

The  University  of  Maine  is  a  part  of  the  State's  educational  system. 
Established  originally  as  a  State  College  of  Agriculture  and  Mechanic 
Arts  under  the  provision  of  the  Morrill  Act,  approved  by  President 
Lincoln  in  1862,  the  State  of  Maine  accepted  the  conditions  of  the  act  the 
following  year  and  in  1865  created  a  corporation  to  administer  the  affairs 
of  the  college.  The  institution  opened  September  21,  1868,  with  a  class  of 
12  members  and  two  teachers.  Tuition  was  often  paid  in  cordwood,  or 
other  local  produce.  By  1871,  four  curricula  had  been  arranged — • 


TOUR  4 :   From  Houlton  to  Shelburne  297 

agriculture,  civil  engineering,  mechanical  engineering,  and  elective  — 
which  gradually  developed  into  the  present  college  of  agriculture, 
technology,  and  arts  and  sciences.  The  name,  University  of  Maine,  was 
assumed  in  1899. 

The  College  of  Agriculture,  the  outstanding  unit  of  the  University,  com- 
prises the  various  departments  of  agriculture  and  husbandry  as  well  as 
bacteriology,  geological  chemistry,  forestry,  home  economics  and  horticul- 
ture. Although  a  four-year  course  is  required  for  the  degree  of  bachelor  of 
science  in  agriculture,  the  college  offers  a  two-year  course  and  special 
short  courses  in  these  subjects  which  have  become  unusually  popular.  Its 
courses  in  forestry  have  been  widely  recognized.  The  University  main- 
tains a  forestry  camp  in  Indian  Township  near  Princeton  (see  Tour  1,  sec. 
e).  Throughout  the  year  extension  lectures  are  given;  and  an  extension 
service  analyzes  soils,  studies  animal  and  crop  diseases,  and  distributes 
scientific  and  practical  information  to  farmers. 

The  Maine  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  was  established  as  a  division 
of  the  University  by  an  act  of  the  legislature  of  1887  as  a  result  of  the 
Hatch  Act.  Its  offices  and  principal  laboratories,  besides  the  one  at 
Orono,  are  at  Highmoor  Farm  in  Monmouth  (see  Tour  13) ,  and  Aroostook 
Farm  at  Presque  Isle  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  e).  The  University  also  operates  a 
marine  biological  station  at  East  Lamoine  on  the  shore  of  Frenchman's 
Bay. 

The  University  buildings  are  best  reached  from  the  Administration 
Building  (campus  guides  and  maps  available).  Parking  space  is  always 
available,  and  during  the  summer  direction  markers  are  posted  along  the 
drives. 

The  Carnegie  Library,  a  two-story  granite  building  with  glass-enclosed 
central  rotunda,  houses  the  University  library  of  1 50,000  volumes  and 
pamphlets,  and  also  its  art  collection. 

VEAZIE  (alt.  70,  Veazie  Town,  pop.  568),  124.2  m.  General  Samuel 
Veazie,  a  pioneer  railroad  operator,  gave  this  community  not  only  its 
name  but  also  its  claim  to  fame.  In  1854  the  General  purchased  the  narrow 
gauge  Bangor,  Milford,  and  Old  Town  R.R.,  which  ran  through  here,  and 
it  became  known  as  the  Veazie  R.R.  Completed  in  1836  it  was  Maine's 
first  railroad  and  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  country.  The  first  rails  were  made 
of  wood. 

In  1834  the  General  had  established  the  Veazie  Bank.  Just  after  the 
passage  of  the  Federal  Act  (1866)  taxing  currency  issued  by  State  banks, 
officials  of  the  Veazie  banks  refused  to  pay  the  tax.  This  led  to  the  U.S. 
Supreme  Court  case,  Veazie  Banks  vs.  Fenno,  hi  which  the  Supreme  Court 
upheld  the  power  of  Congress  to  levy  such  tax.  As  a  result  the  power  to 
issue  State  currency  was  virtually  taken  from  the  States. 

Veazie,  originally  called  The  Plains,  was  a  part  of  Bangor  until  its  incor- 
poration in  1853. 

BANGOR  (alt.  100,  pop.  28,749)  (see  BANGOR),  128.6  m.,  is  at  a 
junction  with  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  c). 


298  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

HERMON  (alt.  190,  Hermon  Town,  pop.  1204),  136.9  m.,  is  near  the 
railroad  yards  of  Northern  Maine  Junction,  a  terminus  of  the  Bangor  and 
Aroostook  R.R.  at  its  j-unction  with  the  Maine  Central  R.R. 

The  Millerites,  disciples  of  William  Miller  who  preached  that  the  second 
coming  of  the  Lord  was  imminent,  won  many  followers  here  in  the  early 
iSoo's.  Contemporary  newspaper  accounts  say  his  followers  eventually 
numbered  50,000  souls,  but  this  is  doubtless  exaggeration.  A  day  in  1843 
was  set  as  the  date  of  the  coming,  and  the  anointed  were  exhorted  to 
prepare  themselves.  To  be  ready  for  heaven  all  the  believers  gave  away 
everything  they  possessed  and  disposed  of  all  their  property.  On  the 
appointed  day  they  donned  ascension  robes  and  climbed  to  hilltops  so  as 
to  be  as  near  heaven  as  possible.  Some  of  them  mounted  the  roofs  of  their 
houses.  All  day  they  stood  looking  into  the  sky.  Nothing  happened. 
After  having  been,  so  they  thought,  at  heaven's  very  gate,  they  had  to 
return  to  an  earthly  status  made  more  difficult  by  the  loss  of  their  pro- 
perty. Miller  attributed  the  denouement  to  a  miscalculation  —  whether 
on  his  part  or  the  Lord's  is  not  clear.  Many  of  his  followers,  especially 
those  in  the  town  of  Hermon,  faithfully  rallied  around  him  once  more, 
remaining  loyal  until  his  death  in  1847.  For  many  years  small  colonies  of 
Millerites  survived  throughout  the  State. 

CARMEL  (alt.  170,  Carmel  Town,  pop.  881),  144.3  m.,  is  in  one  of  the 
oldest  farming  towns  in  Penobscot  County.  Bearing  a  name  of  Biblical 
derivation,  Carmel,  aptly  enough,  was  the  birthplace  of  a  curious  religious 
sect  known  as  the  Higginsites.  The  Reverend  George  Higgins,  a  local 
Methodist  pastor  in  the  early  igth  century,  started  the  sect;  a  village  in 
the  neighboring  town  of  Levant  is  still  called  Higginsville.  The  Higgins- 
ites did  not  eat  pork  and  believed  in  their  ability  to  heal  by  faith.  Tales  of 
their  religious  activities  were  widely  circulated  and  one,  concerning  the 
whipping  of  children  in  efforts  to  drive  out  the  Devil,  aroused  the  indigna- 
tion of  the  townspeople,  who  determined  to  rid  the  town  of  Mr.  Higgins. 
Calling  him  from  his  home  late  one  night,  a  group  tarred  and  feathered 
and  drove  him  away. 

ETNA  (alt.  305,  Etna  Town,  pop.  418),  147.9  m. 

Camp  Etna  (R)  is  a  campground  on  which  spiritualists  have  held  yearly 
meetings  (last  week  in  Aug.  and  first  week  in  Sept.)  since  1876,  when 
Daniel  Buswell,  Jr.,  held  the  first  meeting  in  a  tent.  Today  there  is  a 
temple,  built  in  1880,  seating  noo,  a  club  house,  and  78  cottages  on  the 
80  acres  of  enclosed  land.  The  Grave  of  Mrs.  Mary  S.  Vanderbilt,  a  gener- 
ous benefactor  of  the  Campground  Association,  is  marked  by  a  conspic- 
uous monument.  In  addition  to  the  beautiful  groves,  the  association  owns 
the  Camp  Etna  Hotel  and  Farm. 

NEWPORT  (alt.  205,  Newport  Town,  pop.  1731),  156.8  m.,  owes  much 
of  its  beauty  to  Sebasticook  Lake,  sometimes  known  as  Newport  Pond, 
near  the  center  of  the  town.  The  lake,  6  miles  long,  provides  opportunities 
for  bathing,  boating,  and  fishing. 

Here  is  a  junction  with  State  7  (see  Tour  9). 


TOUR  4:   From  Houlton  to  Shelburne  299 

PALMYRA  (alt.  260,  Palmyra  Town,  pop.  887),  161.1  m.,  was  in  1850  a 
prosperous  lumbering  town  with  a  population  of  1625.  It  is  now  the 
center  of  a  small  agricultural  township. 

CANAAN  (alt.  230,  Canaan  Town,  pop.  714),  172.7  m.  Impressed  by  the 
fertility  of  the  land,  early  settlers  named  their  town  for  the  land  of  milk 
and  honey.  It  was  part  of  the  Plymouth  Patent,  but  was  not  settled  until 
1770  when  Joseph  Weston  of  Lancaster  and  Peter  Hey  wood  of  Concord, 
Mass.,  arrived. 

SKOWHEGAN  (alt.  190,  Skowhegan  Town,  pop.  6431),  181.5  m.  The 
original  settlement  of  the  town  was  made  on  the  island  of  that  name  in  the 
Kennebec  River  and  even  today,  though  the  business  and  industrial  area 
has  spread  to  both  banks,  the  island  is  to  some  extent  the  physical  center. 
Long  before  the  first  white  man  came  to  the  region  in  1771,  Indians  knew 
the  island,  had  explored  the  falls,  had  taken  fighting  salmon  from  the 
waters  below  it,  and  had  named  the  place  Skowhegan  (place  to  watch  for 
fish). 

Among  those  who  were  born  or  have  lived  here  are  Abner  Coburn 
(1803-85),  one  of  Maine's  Civil  War  governors  who  was  prominent  in  the 
economic  and  cultural  development  of  this  section  of  the  State;  Daniel 
Dole  (1808-  ?),  a  missionary  to  the  Hawaiian  Islands  who  was  instrumen- 
tal in  the  establishment,  and  became  president,  of  Oahu  College,  which 
prepares  white  students  to  enter  universities;  George  Otis  Smith  (1871), 
a  former  director  of  the  U.S.  Geological  Survey;  Charles  A.  Coffin 
(1844-1926),  first  president  of  the  General  Electric  Company;  Artemus 
Ward  (Charles  Farrar  Browne,  1834-67),  American  humorist,  who  was 
employed  a  few  months  in  his  boyhood  in  a  Skowhegan  printing  office. 

At  the  eastern  end  of  Water  St.  is  attractive  Coburn  Park,  extending  for 
nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  along  the  highway  and  named  for  Abner 
Coburn,  who  gave  much  of  the  land  to  the  town. 

A  large  granite  boulder,  on  the  Site  of  Benedict  Arnold's  Camp  in  the 
school  grounds  on  the  corner  of  Weston  St.,  commemorates  the  passage  of 
Benedict  Arnold's  army,  September  29,  1775. 

The  State  Reformatory  for  Women,  housed  in  six  modern  buildings  on 
Norridgewock  Ave.,  was  opened  in  1916.  Women  delinquents  over  16 
years  of  age  are  confined  in  it. 

The  Skowhegan  Fair  Ground,  Fairview  Park,  and  an  airplane  landing 
field  are  i  mile  north  of  Water  St.,  on  Madison  Ave.  (State  147). 

Right  from  Skowhegan  is  State  147,  an  alternate  and  shorter  route  between  Skow- 
hegan and  Solon  (see  Tour  10). 

At  5.1  m.  on  State  147  is  LAKEWOOD,  a  resort  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Wesserun- 
sett,  with  a  hotel  having  a  dining  terrace  overlooking  the  lake,  and  with  a  dance 
hall  and  other  recreational  facilities. 

Lakewood  has  had  a  summer  theater  since  1900,  housed  in  the  early  days  in  an  old 
amusement  park.  Admission  at  that  time  was  five  cents  to  those  who  arrived  on 
the  jiggling,  bumpy  trolley  cars,  ten  cents  to  those  who  provided  their  own  trans- 
portation, which  was  usually  a  buckboard  drawn  by  plump  horses.  The  plays, 
usually  either  Broadway  successes  presented  by  companies  preparing  to  go  on  the 


3OO  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

road  with  them  or  try-outs  for  New  York  presentation  in  the  fall,  are  now  per- 
formed in  an  attractive  little  structure  of  semi- Colonial  design. 

At  14.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  201  (see  Tour  10). 

US  2  crosses  the  river,  and  on  the  southern  edge  of  the  city  joins  US  201 
with  which  it  is  identical  to  Norridgewock. 

NORRIDGEWOCK  (alt.  180,  Norridgewock  Town,  pop.  1478),  186.7  m., 
derived  its  name  from  the  Indian  name  for  the  place,  Nanrantsouk 
('  smooth  water  between  falls '  or  '  rapids ') .  Its  early  history  is  allied  with 
that  of  the  Indian  village  at  Old  Point  (see  Tour  10).  When  Somerset 
County,  named  for  Somersetshire,  England,  was  formed  from  the  north- 
ern part  of  Kennebec  County  in  1809,  Norridgewock  became  the  shire 
town. 

The  Norridgewock  Bridge,  spanning  the  Kennebec,  on  US  201,  is  a  four- 
span  cement  structure  of  the  bowstring-arch  type. 

US  201,  branching  from  US  2,  turns  right  at  the  bridge  (see  Tour  10). 

MERCER  (alt.  280,  Mercer  Town,  pop.  408),  194.4  m.,  birthplace  of 
Frank  A.  Munsey,  the  publisher,  is  a  little  settlement  sheltered  in  a 
depression  between  two  hills. 

On  the  lawn  of  a  small  church  (R)  is  a  bronze  tablet  set  in  a  large  millstone 
commemorating  what  is  believed  to  have  been  the  Largest  Tree  in  New 
England,  an  elm  that  was  32  feet  in  circumference. 

At  198.6  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  27  (see  Tour  12). 

NEW  SHARON  (alt.  340,  New  Sharon  Town,  pop.  750),  199.6  m.  The 
homes  of  this  settlement  are  built  along  the  highway  which  slopes  for  a 
mile  to  the  bridge  over  well-named  Sandy  River.  Quantities  of  golden 
bantam  corn  for  canning  are  raised  in  the  broad  rolling  fields  around  this 
village. 

FARMINGTON  FALLS  (alt.  335,  Farmington  Town),  204  m.  When  a 
party  of  six  men  led  by  Thomas  Wilson,  an  early  hunter,  explored  this 
country  in  1776  with  a  view  to  settlement,  they  found  the  village  of  the 
Indian  Pierpole  and  the  remains  of  another  Indian  village  and  fort  here 
at  the  falls.  Pierpole  became  friendly  with  the  white  men  and  later  aided 
them  in  establishing  themselves  —  another  example  of  Indian  friend- 
liness until  the  trust  was  betrayed. 

At  208.3  m.  (R)  is  Stanwood  Park  (adm.  10^),  a  large  zoo  maintained  by 
the  owner  as  a  hobby.  The  500  clean,  well-cared-for  animals,  in  cages  and 
fenced  enclosures,  include  a  collection  representative  of  the  State's  wild 
life. 

FARMINGTON  (alt.  420,  Farmington  Town,  pop.  3600),  210.1  m.,  gate- 
way to  the  Rangeley  and  Dead  River  regions,  is  the  seat  of  Franklin 
County,  and  agricultural  and  trading  center  for  this  fertile  valley  along 
Sandy  River.  Fruitful  apple  orchards  add  to  the  incomes  of  many 
farmers  here. 

The  first  Farmington  Falls  settlers  of  the  i77o's  were  joined  by  others  who 
started  clearings  in  various  places  along  Sandy  River;  in  1782  eight 


TOUR  4:   From  Houlton  to  Shelburne  301 

families  passed  the  winter  in  rough,  snow-bound  log  cabins  in  the  vicinity. 
The  settlers  were,  for  the  most  part,  people  of  considerable  culture  and 
education.  The  first  school  of  the  settlement  was  opened  in  1788  in  the 
log-cabin  home  of  Lemuel  Perham,  Jr.  By  1790  there  were  404  in- 
habitants, and  in  1794  the  town  was  incorporated. 

Farmington  State  Normal  School  is  on  Academy  St. 

Here  is  a  junction  with  State  4  (see  Tour  11)  and  State  27  (see  Tour  12). 

WILTON  (alt.  690,  Wilton  Town,  pop.  3266),  218.7  m.,  a  busy  industrial 
and  farming  settlement,  stands  at  the  point  where  Wilson  Stream  flows 
into  Wilson  Lake.  The  stream  runs  parallel  with  the  main  street  of  the 
village  and  a  heavily  wooded  hill  rises  abruptly  from  the  bank  of  the  river. 

Wilson  Lake,  along  the  highway  just  a  few  hundred  yards  west  of  the 
business  district,  has  good  recreational  facilities  and  many  summer  camps 
on  its  shores. 

The  township  was  first  called  Harrytown  for  Harry,  an  Indian,  who  was 
the  scourge  of  the  whites  in  the  area.  In  1 790,  when  Capt.  William  Tyng 
in  an  expedition  against  the  Indians  killed  Harry,  the  township  was  re- 
named Tyngstown  in  honor  of  the  captain.  Abraham  Butterfield,  who 
later  came  from  Wilton,  N.H.,  paid  the  expenses  of  incorporation  in  1803 
for  the  privilege  of  renaming  the  place  for  his  former  home. 

Here  is  a  junction  with  State  4  (see  Tour  11). 

DIXFIELD  (alt.  420,  Dixfield  Town,  pop.  1518),  235.7  m.,  in  the  shadow 
of  the  Sugar  Loaves,  twin  hills,  is  at  the  confluence  of  the  Androscoggin 
and  Webb  Rivers.  The  manufacture  of  paper  boxes  and  wood-novelties  is 
among  the  industries  here. 

MEXICO  (alt.  460,  Mexico  Town,  pop.  4761),  240.3  m.,  is  principally 
occupied  by  employees  of  the  Rumford  paper  mills  across  the  Andros- 
coggin. Swift  River,  west  of  the  village,  passes  through  the  township  with 
a  fall  of  50  ft. 

RUMFORD  (alt.  610,  Rumford  Town,  pop.  8726),  241.3  m.,  high  in  the 
Oxford  hills,  where  the  Ellis,  Swift,  and  Concord  Rivers  flow  into  the 
Androscoggin,  is  the  home  of  New  England's  largest  paper  pulp  mills.  It 
is  one  of  the  most  active  towns  socially  in  the  State,  and  a  popular  winter 
sports  center.  Directly  in  sight  of  the  business  section,  the  magnificent 
Falls  of  the  Androscoggin  tumble  down  over  a  bed  of  solid  granite,  the 
water  supplying  power  for  the  huge  paper  mills  that  employ  most  of  the 
working  inhabitants.  The  construction  of  a  canal  has  placed  the  business 
section  on  an  island,  connected  with  the  mainland  by  three  bridges. 

One  thousand  cords  of  pulpwood  are  used  here  daily  (1936)  and  pulp 
piles  rise  high  near  the  river. 

The  Oxford  Paper  Company  Mill  (permit  at  office),  near  Railroad  Station, 
one  of  the  largest  book-paper  mills  in  the  United  States,  manufactures 
and  prints  book-cover  labels,  offsets,  rotogravures,  and  lithographs. 

Stephens  High  School,  Congress  St.,  offers  the  only  course  in  New  England 
for  the  study  of  the  manufacture  of  pulp  and  paper. 


3O2  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

The  annual  Winter  Carnival,  with  competitive  sports,  is  held  in  February 
under  the  auspices  of  the  Chisholm  Skiing  and  Outing  Club. 

Left  from  Rumford  on  State  120  to  the  Mt.  Zircon  Bottling  Company  Works,  4.5  m. 
(L),  which  owns  the  Noontide  Spring,  the  flow  of  which,  the  owners  say,  increases  20 
gallons  a  minute  during  the  time  of  the  full  moon.  The  spring  bubbles  high  on  a 
mountain  reached  by  a  2-mile  trail  leading  from  the  bottling  works.  This  claim  has 
never  been  scientifically  investigated. 

At  252.3  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  5  (see  Tour  4A). 

NEWRY  (alt.  630,  Newry  Town,  pop.  188),  259.5  m.,  is  at  a  junction 

with  State  26  (see  Tour  14). 

BETHEL  (alt.  700,  Bethel  Town,  pop.  2025),  266.5  w.,  the  center  of  a 
township  in  the  delightful  Oxford  Hills,  is  built  on  both  sides  of  the  wind- 
ing Androscoggin  River,  which,  flowing  gently  here,  soon  drops  away 
rapidly  over  numerous  falls  furnishing  power  for  mills  downstream. 
Behind  the  cluster  of  handsome  residences  with  landscaped  grounds  on  the 
slope  of  a  low  hill  rise  the  rough  foothills  of  the  White  Mountains.  On 
August  22, 1781,  it  is  said  that  a  party  of  Indians  attacked  Bethel,  carrying 
away  a  heavy  plunder  and  three  settlers.  One  of  the  captives  escaped  into 
the  woods;  the  other  two  were  held  as  prisoners  in  Canada  until  after  the 
end  of  the  Revolution. 

On  the  brow  of  a  hill  is  Gould's  Academy,  established  1836,  one  of  the 
leading  preparatory  schools  of  Maine. 

The  Chapman  Home  (private),  west  side  of  Church  St.,  was  the  former 
residence  of  the  late  Dr.  William  R.  Chapman,  organizer  and  conductor 
for  25  years  of  the  former  annual  Maine  Music  Festivals  (see  BANGOR; 
PORTLAND),  which  were  important  musical  events  in  the  life  of  the 
State. 

Directly  opposite  the  Chapman  Home  is  a  quadrangular  elm  parkway. 
Bethel  Inn  (L),  one  of  the  best-known  hostelries  of  Maine,  was  erected  by 
Dr.  John  G.  Gehring  (1857-1932),  whose  home  is  beyond  the  inn  at  the  far 
end  of  Church  St.  Dr.  Gehring,  a  distinguished  neurologist,  late  in  life 
converted  his  residence  into  a  sanatorium  where  he  could  give  individual 
attention  to  patients  suffering  from  nervous  disorders.  One  of  the  wards 
of  the  New  York  Neurological  Institute  is  named  in  his  honor.  In  1923 
Dr.  Gehring  published  a  book,  'The  Hope  of  the  Variant.' 
In  Bethel  are  junctions  with  State  5  (see  Tour  15)  and  with  State  26  (see 
Tour  14). 

GILEAD  (alt.  710,  Gilead  Town,  pop.  222),  276.6  m.,  a  tiny  settlement 
near  a  railroad  station,  is  on  the  northern  line  of  the  White  Mountain  Na- 
tional Forest.  Behind  it  are  tumbling  mountain  streams  and  below  it  the 
sweeping  Androscoggin,  cutting  its  way  through  forests  of  fragrant  cedar 
and  pine,  the  waters  mirroring  the  beauty  of  the  forest.  Silvery  birches 
spread  a  fragile  web  of  loveliness  over  the  highway. 

Left  from  Gilead  on  a  good  road,  through  White  Mountain  National  Forest,  to 
Evans  Notch,  6  m.  From  the  wooded  area  near  the  Notch  are  spectacular  views 
of  the  Presidential  Range  of  the  White  Mountains. 

At  279.1  m.  US  2  crosses  the  New  Hampshire  Line,  3.8  miles  east  of 
Shelburne,  N.H. 


TOUR     4  A  :     From  JUNCTION   WITH   US  2  to   SOUTH 
ARM,  25.6  m.,  State  5. 


Via  Andover  and  The  Notch. 
Graveled  roadbed. 

THIS  route,  to  the  Rangeley  Lake  region,  follows  through  the  Ellis  River 
Valley  to  the  intervale  of  Andover  where  a  long  ridge  of  the  Canadian 
border  mountains  far  north  can  be  seen.  From  a  quagmire  at  the  foot  of 
Lower  Richardson  Lake,  Black  Brook  seeps  through  dense  vegetable 
matter,  and  flows  beside  the  road  in  the  heavily  wooded  area  near  South 
Arm. 

At  0  m.  State  5  branches  northwest  from  US  2  (see  Tour  4). 

Visible  from  1.4  m.  (L),  is  a  long,  bare,  high  ledge  on  the  side  of  Mount 
Dimmock. 

At  3.6  m.  (L)  is  the  trail  to  Newry  Mine,  a  goo-foot  climb  up  Plumbago 
Mountain.  The  discovery  of  tourmalines  here,  in  1900,  was  followed  by 
that  of  feldspar  and  pollucite.  The  mine  is  now  inactive,  its  pollucite  vein 
being  considered  exhausted.  Pollucite,  probably  Maine's  most  valuable 
mineral  —  having  had  a  maximum  value  of  $20  per  pound  —  is  used  in 
the  manufacture  of  alternating  current  radio  tubes. 

At  10.7  m.  (R)  is  Andover  Cemetery,  in  the  northern  end  of  which  is  the 
Grave  of  Molly  Locket,  an  Indian  woman  who  was  so  constantly  in  demand 
by  the  settlers  as  a  midwife  that  she  neither  had  the  time  nor  the  need  to 
establish  a  home  of  her  own.  Molly's  second  husband  is  said  to  have  been 
Chief  Sabattus,  and  although  her  gravemarker  says  she  was  the  last  of  the 
Pequawkets,  another  tradition  says  two  of  her  daughters  were  married  to 
white  settlers.  The  inscription  reads: 

Mollocket  baptized  Mary  Agatha, 
Catholic,  died  in  the  Christian  Faith, 
August  2,  A.D.  1816. 
The  Last  of  the  Pequakets. 

ANDOVER  (alt.  610,  Andover  Town,  pop.  783),  11.7  m.,  a  small  com- 
mercial settlement  formerly  important  for  its  lumbering,  now  caters  to 
summer  campers.  Throughout  the  entire  township  are  visible  the  forest- 
cloaked  Aziscoos  Mountains  which  lie  north  of  the  Rangeley  Lakes. 

The  Notch  (Township  C),  20.7  m.,  formed  by  Old  Blue  Mountain  (R) 
(alt.  3735)  and  Parkhurst  Mountain  (L)  (alt.  2870),  is  barely  wide  enough 
for  the  road,  which  follows  Black  Brook.  Old  Blue  towers  sheerly  above 
the  road. 

SOUTH  ARM  (alt.  1480,  Township  C,  pop.  9),  25.6  m.  Buried  deep  in  the 
woods  on  the  southern  tip  of  Lower  Richardson  Lake,  this  little  settle- 


304  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

ment  with  its  half-dozen  houses,  wharf,  and  long  rows  of  connected 
storage  garages  is  the  'jumping-off  place'  for  visitors  on  their  way  to 
hotels  and  camps  scattered  through  the  Rangeley  Lake  Region  (see  Tour 
11A). 


TOUR      5  :     From    BREWER   to    JUNCTION    WITH   US   1 

(Calais),  87.5  m.,  State  9,  The  Air  Line. 


Via  Eddington,  Amherst,  Wesley,  Crawford,  and  Alexander. 

Two-lane,  bituminous-topped,  and  graveled  roadbed  the  greater  part  of  the 
route;  a  few  sections  of  narrow,  unimproved  dirt  road;  in  winter  it  is  not  always 
passable. 

Limited  accommodations;  gas  stations  long  distances  apart. 

THIS  inland  route,  most  direct  between  Bangor  and  Calais,  passes 
through  a  sparsely  settled  agricultural  region,  blueberry  plains,  and 
forests  with  winding  trout  streams;  tote  roads  used  by  lumbermen  lead 
into  the  woods  at  intervals.  The  more  than  20-mile  stretch  between 
Beddington  and  Wesley  is  without  habitation.  Between  Crawford  and 
Alexander  are  lakes  with  sportsmen's  camps. 

This  route,  originally  planned  in  1838-39  as  a  military  road  during  the 
Aroostook  War  (see  History)  to  speed  soldiers  to  the  border  through 
the  wilderness,  remained  unfinished  for  more  than  20  years  after  the 
boundary  dispute  was  settled.  Little  more  than  a  dirt  lane,  it  was 
opened  as  a  mail  route  in  1857  when  Calais  citizens  became  dissatisfied 
with  mail  service  over  the  highway  along  the  shore.  When  it  was  im- 
proved a  few  years  later  for  the  use  of  stages,  travelers  traversed  it  with 
uneasiness,  fearing  wolves  in  winter  and  bandits  in  summer. 
BREWER  (alt.  40,  pop.  6329)  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  c),  0  m.,  is  at  a  junction 
with  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  c).  State  9  branches  northeast  from  US  1 
here. 

EDDINGTON  (alt.  50,  Eddington  Town,  pop.  487),  4.1  m.,  with  camps 
and  tourists'  homes,  is  a  small  farming  community  on  the  eastern  bank  of 
the  Penobscot  River. 

The  granite  shaft,  facing  the  river,  is  a  Memorial  to  Jonathan  Eddy,  for 
whom  the  town  was  named.  Eddy  was  a  captain  in  the  French  and 
Indian  wars,  a  colonel  during  the  Revolutionary  War,  and  the  first 
magistrate  appointed  along  the  Penobscot  River. 

The  banks  of  the  river  in  this  vicinity  have  yielded  Red  Paint  deposits 

(see  Earliest  Inhabitants). 

In  Eddington,  as  in  many  inland  villages  before  the  days  when  sea  food 


TOUR  5:   From  Brewer  to  Calais  305 

was  brought  to  local  stores,  it  was  customary  for  the  inhabitants  to  make 
annual  trips  to  the  coast  to  procure  several  barrels  of  sand  and  a  quantity 
of  clams.  Each  villager  dug  a  hole  in  the  earth  of  his  cellar,  filled  it  with 
the  sand,  and  buried  the  clams  in  the  sand,  which  was  kept  wet  in  order 
to  keep  the  clams  alive  for  use  in  the  cold  months.  A  story  of  clams  thus 
preserved  is  told  in  connection  with  an  old  sea  captain  who  had  retired  to 
this  village.  He  had  a  clam-pit  in  his  cellar,  but  he  averred  that  instead  of 
keeping  his  clams  for  food  he  used  them  as  rat-catchers;  he  said  he  often 
went  into  the  cellar  and  found  a  rat  struggling  against  a  clam  that  had 
closed  its  shell  in  a  tenacious  grip  on  the  rat's  tail. 

Right  from  Eddington  village  on  a  local  road  to  a  Training  Camp  for  Field  Dogs 
(private),  2  m.,  on  the  eastern  side  of  Eddington  Pond.  Here  beautiful  young  bird- 
hunting  dogs  are  trained  until  they  can  point  out  covies  of  birds,  'freeze'  into  a 
motionless  stand,  remain  unflinching  when  a  gun  roars  out  at  the  rising  birds,  and 
then  retrieve  the  kill  for  their  master.  The  State  and  New  England  Field  Trials  for 
bird  dogs  were  held  here  in  1935,  and  in  May  and  September  the  Bangor  Fish  and 
Game  Association  holds  annual  bird-dog  field  trials  at  this  camp. 

State  9  swings  right  at  Eddington. 

CLIFTON  (alt.  155,  Clifton  Town,  pop.  156),  12.1  m.,  is  in  a  town  where 
hills  are  composed  of  'puddle  rocks'  or  pudding  stone,  in  which  stones  of 
many  colors  and  shapes  are  held  together  by  a  conglomerate  mass. 

Left  from  Clifton  on  a  dirt  road  is  Chemo  Lake  (canoes  for  hire},  0.7  m.,  a  wide  sheet 
of  water  in  summer  reflecting  forest-clad  hills  and  blue  skies.  There  is  excellent 
trout  fishing  here. 

AMHERST  (alt.  30,  Amherst  Town,  pop.  163),  24  m.,  now  a  small 
farming  community,  was  once  supported  by  saw,  grist,  clapboard,  and 
shingle  mills,  as  well  as  a  large  tannery. 

At  25.5  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  179. 

Right  on  State  179  to  a  Cannery  (open),  3  m.,  in  which  great  quantities  of  blue- 
berries, hauled  in  from  neighboring  plains,  are  weighed,  dumped  in  a  long  endless 
conveyor  where  they  are  carefully  sorted,  washed,  packed  in  tins,  and  cooked  under 
steam  pressure,  to  be  used  eventually  in  pies  and  pan  dowdies  all  over  New 
England. 

AURORA  (alt.  315,  Aurora  Town,  pop.  86),  26  m.  Hunters  and  fisher- 
men now  use  the  Village  Inn,  formerly  a  stagecoach  stop. 

At  27  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  Great  Pond,  6  m,,  where  there  is  good  trout  fishing.  This  is  a 
section  with  numerous  hunting  and  sporting  camps,  for  game  is  also  plentiful. 

Between  28.4  m.  and  30.7  m.  the  road  passes  over  the  Whale  Back,  an 
alluvial  ridge  with  an  elevation  of  from  200  to  300  feet.  Vast  tracts  of 
woodland  stretch  along  either  side,  and  in  fine  weather,  Mt.  Katahdin,  80 
miles  northwest,  is  visible.  In  this  area  the  white  flags  of  startled  deer  are 
often  seen  as  they  hurdle  mossy  logs  to  disappear  into  the  dim  forest. 
Occasionally,  especially  on  crisp  evenings,  the  long  bellow  of  a  bull  moose 
echoes  over  the  timberlands,  and  the  staccato  barking  of  the  fox  is  heard 
in  the  stillness  of  the  vast  area. 

At  40.8  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  193. 

Right  on  State  193,  3  m.,  to  old  Beaver  Colonies  and  Dams  on  the  west  branch  of 


306  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

the  Narraguagus.  The  broad-tailed,  silky-furred  workers  are  now  rarely  seen  in 
this  region,  but  the  large  dam  and  several  sub-dams  that  they  constructed  still 
hold  back  the  river  waters  over  a  considerable  area,  while  cleverly  built  mounds  ap- 
pear like  miniature  brown  igloos  projecting  from  the  water. 

At  41.2  m.  is  a  well-marked  trail. 

Left  on  this  trail  leading  about  1  m.  to  a  fire  lookout  station  on  Lead  Mountain. 
At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  is  a  Civilian  Conservation  Corps  camp. 

For  many  years  it  was  believed  that  veins  of  gold  ran  through  Lead  Mountain. 
Near-by  settlements  were  often  visited,  so  the  story  goes,  by  an  Indian  who  offered 
small  gold  nuggets  in  exchange  for  a  drink  of  rum.  As  he  was  usually  intoxicated 
and  apparently  did  no  work  to  earn  the  gold,  rumor  spread  that  he  knew  of  a  lode 
on  Lead  Mountain.  Finally  a  settler  plied  the  Indian  with  enough  rum  to  extract 
from  him  the  story  of  a  huge  cave  filled  with  nuggets,  and  the  promise  to  lead  him 
to  the  cave.  It  is  said  the  two  men  left  the  settlement,  but  the  white  man  never  re- 
turned. 

At  41.4  m.  a  bridge  crosses  the  Narraguagus  River,  in  which  an  annual 
log  drive  usually  takes  place  about  mid-April. 

BEDDINGTON  (alt.  530,  Beddington  Town,  pop.  35),  41.8  m.  The 
Old  Shoppe  House,  now  the  post  office,  was  for  many  years  a  stopping- 
place  for  stagecoaches.  Jefferson  Davis,  later  President  of  the  Con- 
federacy, is  said  to  have  resided  in  this  old  hostelry  for  several  weeks 
during  the  summer  of  1857  when  he  was  visiting  his  friend,  Alexander 
Bache,  Superintendent  of  the  Coast  Survey,  who  was  taking  personal 
charge  of  work  there  and  in  the  near-by  Lead  Mountain  area.  There  is  a 
local  tradition  that  Davis,  before  leaving,  placed  a  small  chest  in  the  inn- 
keeper's charge,  instructing  the  latter  to  turn  it  over  to  a  person  who 
would  make  a  certain  sign.  The  following  autumn,  on  a  windy  night  a 
stranger  appeared  on  horseback,  made  the  sign,  and  rode  off  with  the 
chest.  The  villagers  believed  that  the  chest  held  documents  that  had 
some  connection  with  the  Rebellion. 

At  49.8  m.  is  the  entrance  to  a  foot  trail. 

Left  on  this  trail,  providing  a  stiff  climb  of  about  1  w.,  to  the  top  of  Peaked 
Mountain,  where  is  a  Fire  Lookout  Station  from  which  is  a  view  over  vast  blue- 
berry plains,  or  barrens,  as  they  are  called. 

At  54.3  m.  is  a  wooden  bridge  crossing  the  Machias  River,  which  was 
once  famous  for  its  log  drives.  Right  is  a  State  Fish  and  Game  Department 
Camp,  often  used  by  wardens.  Left  is  a  free  camp  site^ 

WESLEY  (Wesley  Town,  pop.  170),  65.1  m.,  is  on  a  high  hill  amid  ex- 
tensive blueberry  barrens.  From  a  Fire  Lookout  Station  (open),  virtually 
in  the  center  of  the  village,  is  a  panorama  over  great  wooded  areas,  with 
Eastport,  3  2  miles  away,  visible  on  a  clear  day. 

There  is  a  story  that  during  the  Civil  War  three  Federal  recruiting  officers 
were  murdered  here  while  trying  to  enforce  draft  requirements.  During 
stagecoach  days  many  robberies  were  committed  at  the  foot  of  Wesley 
Hill,  just  beyond  the  village.  This  spot  was  still  the  scene  of  lawless 
activities  during  prohibition,  when  rum-runners  in  high-powered  trucks 
brought  contraband  liquors  from  the  Canadian  Border;  clashes  with 
revenue  officers  were  frequent. 


TOUR  5:   From  Brewer  to  Calais  307 

At  69.1  m.  (L)  is  a  Free  Camp  Site. 

At  72.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  local  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  Love  Lake,  0.7  m.,  a  small  body  of  water  surrounded  by 
birch-clad  hills.  Water  lilies  grow  in  profusion  here,  many  of  the  coves  being  likened 
to  scenes  portrayed  by  Monet.  In  the  summer  game  is  plentiful  and  quite  tame 
near  the  lake;  moose,  knee  deep  in  the  water,  munch  lily  shoots,  and  deer,  sil- 
houetted against  a  brilliant  sunset,  offer  unusual  opportunities  to  photographers. 
There  are  several  small  waterfalls  in  the  streams  that  empty  into  Love  Lake; 
Seavey  Brook,  toward  the  west,  tumbles  over  a  series  of  rocks,  forming  rapids. 

CRAWFORD  (Crawford  Town,  pop.  120),  76  m.,  once  the  center  of 
extensive  lumbering  operations,  was  the  scene  of  many  stagecoach 
robberies.  Favorite  yarns  of  early  stagecoach  travel  tell  of  how,  when 
deep  snow  impeded  the  progress  of  the  coach,  packs  of  wolves  would 
follow  the  wheel  tracks  and  were  warded  off  only  by  the  alertness  of  the 
drivers  and  the  quick  cocking  and  firing  of  hand-loaded  and  primed  guns. 
Other  exciting  tales,  many  of  them  more  frankly  fiction  but  built  around 
a  fragment  of  truth,  abound  in  this  region.  One  concerns  three  brothers, 
living  near  Bangor,  who  became  highwaymen  and  terrorized  this  district, 
stopping  coaches  several  times  a  week  and  extracting  all  valuables  from 
the  passengers  and  their  luggage.  It  is  told  that  a  passenger  who  had  been 
robbed  while  traveling  here,  several  months  later  in  Boston  recognized  a 
man  lounging  in  a  tavern  tap-room  as  one  of  the  three  bandits;  accused, 
the  man  shouted  his  innocence,  but  a  golden  nugget,  hanging  from  his 
watch  chain,  was  found  to  bear  the  initials  of  the  coach  passenger. 

Crawford  Lake,  in  this  town,  has  excellent  bathing  and  fishing  facilities. 
At  Cedar  Cove,  on  the  eastern  shore,  perpendicular  cliffs  rising  high  above 
the  sparkling  waters  are  spoken  of  thus,  by  a  local  guide:  'The  cliffs  out 
there  are  a  "high  eyeful,"  and  only  the  Devil  knows  how  deep.' 

At  81.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  oiled  graveled  road. 

Right  on  this  road,  ALEXANDER  (alt.  420,  Alexander  Town,  pop.  312),  0.4  m., 
a  small  community  on  a  high  hill,  carrying  on  some  farming  in  a  hunting  region, 
overlooks  Meddybemps  Lake,  (R),  which  is  7  miles  long,  3  miles  wide,  and  has  52 
islands  dotting  its  placid  surface.  Many  sporting  camps  are  scattered  along  the 
shores  of  the  lake  which  offers  fine  bass  and  perch  fishing. 

In  the  Corner  Store,  near  the  village  Center,  hangs  a  large  sign  reading:  ' After 
40  years  of  credit  business,  we  have  closed  our  book  of  Sorrow.'  This  combination 
store,  post  office,  information  bureau,  bank,  and  general  gathering  place  is  typical 
of  the  New  England  general  store  of  the  past.  Here  shelves  of  modern  canned 
goods  vie  with  bunches  of  fragrant  pickling  spices,  dill-pickles  in  a  barrel,  beans  in 
five- and  ten-pound  bags,  penny  candy,  overalls,  rubber  boots,  embroidery  material 
and  silks,  and  the  heterogeneous  mixture  of  merchandise  required  by  village  house- 
wives and  male  'bargainers.'  In  the  evenings,  the  men  gather  around  the  pot- 
bellied stove  set  in  its  sawdust-filled  square  box  —  the  latter  for  the  convenience  of 
tobacco  '  chawers '  —  to  settle  problems  ranging  in  importance  from  international 
affairs  to  fence  disputes. 

At  84.3  m.  (L)  is  a  Free  Camp  Site,  maintained  by  the  State  Fish  and 
Game  Department. 

At  87.5  m.  State  9  joins  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  e),  6.9  miles  southwest  of 
Calais. 


TOUR     6  :     From  FORT  KENT  to  MATTAWAMKEAG,  138 
m.,  State  11. 


Via  Wallagrass,  Eagle  Lake,  Portage,  Ashland,  Patten,  Sherman,  and  Medway. 

Graveled  or  macadamized  roadbed,  narrow  and  rough  in  spots.  Route  not  re- 
commended except  to  reach  sporting  areas. 

Accommodations  infrequent  except  at  sportsmen's  camps. 

THIS  route,  frequented  chiefly  by  sportsmen,  runs  almost  directly  south. 
Small  villages  in  this  area  are  widely  separated  in  the  midst  of  forests, 
lakes,  and  mountains,  with  only  occasional  open  farm  land.  Game 
abounds.  Most  of  the  people  depend  on  guiding  sportsmen,  trapping, 
small-scale  farming,  and  lumber  operations  for  a  livelihood.  Between 
Fort  Kent  and  Portage,  the  French  Acadian  villages  are  like  those  along 
the  St.  John  River  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  e).  Between  Masardis  and  Sherman, 
the  route  crosses  a  fertile  potato  belt. 

FORT  KENT  (alt.  530,  Fort  Kent  Town,  pop.  4726)  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  e), 
0  m.,  is  at  a  junction  with  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  e).  The  village  is  at  the 
northern  terminus  of  the  Allagash  River  Canoe  Trip  (see  Sports  and  Re- 
creation). 

FORT  KENT  MILLS  (alt.  610,  Fort  Kent  Town),  1.5  m.,  was  settled  in 
the  i86o's  when  the  Bradbury  Lumber  Company  began  operations  at 
this  fine  water-power  site  on  Fish  River.    Extensive  operations  ceased 
about  1916. 
At  7.3  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  SOLDIER  POND  (alt.  590,  Wallagrass  Plantation),  1  w.,  on  the 
shore  of  a  body  of  water  named  during  the  Aroostook  Bloodless  War  (see  History). 

WALLAGRASS  (alt.  820,  Wallagrass  Plantation,  pop.  1145),  10  m.,  is 
one  of  the  series  of  French-Acadian  settlements.  In  such  villages  as  this 
the  medallion  of  the  Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus  is  often  seen  on  the  doors  of  the 
homes,  these  people,  like  their  ancestors,  being  devout  Catholics. 

EAGLE  LAKE  (alt.  602,  Eagle  Lake  Town,  pop.  1780)  (guides  available), 
15.7  m.,  is  active  during  the  hunting  and  fishing  seasons.  The  town  was 
settled  about  1840  by  French- Acadians  and  Irish  emigrants. 

Near  the  center  of  the  village  is  the  Northern  Maine  General  Hospital,  an 
important  institution  in  this  area  where  medical  aid  is  hard  to  find. 

The  clear  water  of  Eagle  Lake,  one  of  the  deepest  of  the  Fish  River  Chain, 
holds  many  landlocked  salmon,  and  the  streams  flowing  into  the  lake  have 
abundant  supplies  of  speckled  trout.  During  the  fall,  hunting  in  the 
neighborhood  is  nearly  always  productive  of  the  permitted  quota  of  game. 

Rufus  Mclntyre  and  Major  Strickland,  leading  their  200  men  north  from 
Bangor  at  the  time  of  the  Aroostook  War,  were  impressed  by  the  large 
number  of  eagles  hovering  about,  and  gave  the  lake  its  name. 


TOUR  6:   From  Fort  Kent  to  Mattawamkeag  309 

In  WINTERVILLE  (alt.  1012,  Winterville  Plantation,  pop.  408),  20.5 
m.,  guides  are  available. 

Right  from  Winterville  on  a  gravel  road  to  Lake  St.  Froid,  1  m.,  another  of  the  Fish 
River  Chain,  has  an  abundance  of  salmon,  togue,  and  trout.  Deer  hunting  in  the 
vicinity  is  well  rewarded.  Along  the  headwaters  of  the  near-by  Red  River  are  17 
ponds  that,  with  10  others  along  the  headwaters  of  Nigger  Brook,  contain  square- 
tail  trout. 

PORTAGE  (alt.  641,  Portage  Lake  Town,  pop.  886),  36.6  m.,  on  Portage 
Lake  is  surrounded  by  dense  forest  growth.  The  lake  is  60  miles  from  St. 
Agatha,  a  terminus  of  the  Fish  River  Chain  of  Lakes  Canoe  Trip  (see 
Sports  and  Recreation:  Canoeing). 

On  fishing  and  hunting  trips  in  this  region  guides  frequently  call  attention 
to  beaver  dams  and  homes.  Beaver,  amphibious  rodents  common 
throughout  Maine,  are  particularly  numerous  in  the  vicinity  of  Portage 
Lake.  A  full-grown  beaver  reaches  a  weight  ranging  from  25  to  40  pounds; 
its  soft  and  velvety  fur  makes  the  pelt  prized  for  luxurious  garments.  The 
beavers'  activities,  starting  in  the  spring  and  continuing  through  the 
summer  and  fall,  include  the  cutting  of  timber  to  build  and  repair  their 
dams  and  houses,  and  the  gathering  of  their  winter  food  supply  —  the 
bark  of  poplar,  white  birch,  and  maple  trees. 

At  the  southern  end  of  the  lake  is  a  large  Muskrat  Settlement.  The  houses, 
built  of  mud  and  grass  and  resembling  small  hay  stacks  about  3  feet  in 
diameter  and  2  feet  high,  are  visible  only  when  the  level  of  the  lake  is  low. 

ASHLAND  (alt.  75,  Ashland  Town,  pop.  2198),  47.2  m.,  commercial  and 
industrial  center  of  this  area  of  Aroostook  County,  is  an  important 
shipping  center  for  lumber  and  potatoes.  The  nine  warehouses  along  the 
railroad  tracks  can  hold  45,000  barrels  of  potatoes.  There  are  several 
small  sawmills  in  the  vicinity,  though  this  is  not  an  active  lumbering  area 
at  present;  when  the  industry  was  at  its  peak,  prior  to  1916,  daily  ship- 
ments of  100  carloads  were  not  unusual. 

SQUA  PAN  (alt.  549,  Masardis  Town),  52.2  m.,  a  small  settlement  of 
woodsmen,  is  said  to  have  been  named  for  an  Indian  squaw  who  married  a 
Frenchman  named  Pan. 

At  52.7  m.  (L)  is  a  Maine  Forestry  Service  Station. 

MASARDIS  (alt.  580,  Masardis  Town,  pop.  584)  (bus  service  to  Oxbow), 
56.4  m.  During  the  Aroostook  War  in  1839,  breastworks  were  built  and 
artillery  stationed  here,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Aroostook  River  and  St. 
Croix  Stream. 

Though  lumbering  operations  are  continued  on  a  small  scale,  potato 
raising  is  the  principal  means  of  livelihood;  the  soil,  chiefly  'caribou  loam' 
—  a  local  name  for  the  exceedingly  rich  soil  of  the  potato  belt  —  is  very 
fertile.  There  is  excellent  trout  fishing  in  the  streams  about  the  town. 

At  61  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  is  OXBOW  (alt.  620,  Oxbow  Plantation,  pop.  176)  (guides 
available),  5  m.,  hunting  and  fishing  center  for  sportsmen.  Here,  along  the  streams 
and  lakes,  are  many  privately  owned  hunting  lodges  as  well  as  public  camps. 


3io  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Many  large  specimens  of  big  game  are  taken  from  the  forests.  Small  game  such  as 
partridge  and  woodcock  is  abundant,  and  togue,  black  bass,  perch,  and  pickerel 
are  plentiful.  Jack  Dempsey  had  his  training  quarters  here  before  he  fought  Gene 
Tunney  in  1926. 

MORO  (Moro  Plantation,  pop.  169)  (guides  available),  81.8  m.,  is  in  a 
hunting  and  fishing  area,  with  numerous  public  camps.  Brook  fishing  for 
speckled  trout  is  popular.  There  are  beaver  colonies  here  and  there  along 
the  streams,  and  deer  are  often  seen  in  the  environs. 

Moro  guides  are  particularly  skilled  in  making  camp  life  comfortable  and 
they  are  good  cooks;  in  summer  flapjacks  and  johnny-cake  are  served 
with  fried  trout.  In  the  colder  seasons  game  replaces  the  fish,  and  is  served 
with  bean-hole  beans  and  salt  pork.  Codfish  with  salt  pork  scraps,  and 
pancakes  covered  with  black  molasses  make  another  memorable  meal. 

PATTEN  (alt.  541,  Patten  Town,  pop.  1278),  93.3  m.,  is  a  busy  lumbering 
and  commercial  community  with  a  well-developed  business  section. 

Several  good  woods  trails  leading  from  the  village  have  been  cleared 
recently.  More  than  20  ponds,  in  which  salmon  and  trout  fishing  is  car- 
ried on,  are  within  a  3o-mile  area. 

SHERMAN  STATION  (alt.  485,  Sherman  Town,  pop.  1027),  100.2  m., 
lies  on  the  southern  edge  of  the  potato-raising  country. 

At  102  m.  State  11  swings  sharp  right  to  climb  a  long,  winding  hill. 

STACYVILLE  (alt.  520,  Stacyville  Plantation,  pop.  600)  (daily  bus  to 
Sherman  Station),  106.8  m.,  is  at  the  northern  end  of  the  long  Davidson 
Woods-,  in  the  early  days  it  was  an  important  stage  stop. 

The  Appalachian  Mountain  Club  Trail  to  Mt.  Katahdin  (see  Tour  7) 
starts  here. 

GRINDSTONE  (alt.  322,  Township  No.  i,  Range  7,  pop.  34),  117.1  m.,  is  a 
tiny  lumbering  village  in  which  woodsmen  and  their  families  live  in  frame 
buildings  covered  with  tarred-paper.  The  East  Branch  of  the  Penobscot 
River  at  this  point  passes  through  a  rocky  gorge,  causing  many  log  jams 
during  the  drives.  Before  dynamite  was  used  to  loosen  the  jams,  many 
river  drivers  lost  their  lives  trying  to  dislodge  key-logs.  A  story  is  told  of 
how  one  pugnacious  backwoods  Frenchman,  who  was  caught  in  a  very 
perilous  position  on  a  jam,  lifted  his  voice  loud  in  prayer,  promising  that 
if  he  was  saved  he  would  never  again  fight  man  or  beast.  By  luck  he 
reached  shore  and  found  himself  face  to  face  with  a  huge  bear.  Remem- 
bering his  vow,  he  hesitated;  then,  shouting  a  hasty  plea  to  the  Almighty 
for  forgiveness,  jumped  on  the  beast  with  his  knife. 

For  several  years  the  Great  Northern  Paper  Company  took  its  pulpwood 
from  the  river  here,  hauling  it  overland  by  team  to  a  plant  at  Millinocket. 
Grindstone  is  the  terminus  of  the  East  Branch  Canoe  Trip  (see  Sports  and 
Recreation:  Canoeing). 

MED  WAY  (alt.  280,  Medway  Town,  pop.  406)  (daily  bus  service  to  East 
Millinocket  and  tri-weekly  service  to  Lincoln),  126.8  m.,  lies  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Penobscot  River  and  its  East  Branch  which  enters  the  main 


TOUR  7:   From  Med way  to  Greenville  311 

stream  through  a  rocky  gorge.  In  early  lumbering  days  the  village  was  an 
important  place;  logs  were  sorted  here  and  sent  to  Bangor  in  a  segregated 
drive.  The  settlement  is  now  small  and  scattered,  the  remaining  in- 
habitants being  employed  at  East  Millinocket  and  Millinocket  (see  Tour 
7). 
Here  is  a  junction  with  State  157  (see  Tour  7). 

At  the  northern  end  of  MATTAWAMKEAG  (alt.  212,  Mattawamkeag 
Town,  pop.  461)  (see  Tour  4),  138  m.,  is  a  junction  with  US  2  (see 
Tour  4). 


TOUR      7    :      From  MED  WAY  to  GREENVILLE,  95  m.,  State 
157  and  unnumbered  road. 


Via  Millinocket,  Katahdin  State  Game  Preserve,  Sourdnahunk  Depot  Camp, 
Ripogenus  Dam,  Kokadjo,  and  Lily  Bay. 

Road  partly  macadamized,  partly  graveled.  Narrow  woods  road  in  middle 
section  not  recommended  in  wet  weather.  Private  road  with  gates  (open  6-6) 
between  Sourdnahunk  and  Ripogenus  Dam;  permit  from  Great  Northern 
Paper  Company  required  at  Bangor  to  cross  dam. 

Accommodations  scarce;  telephones  for  fire  service  only;  50  miles  between  gas 
pumps. 

THIS  route  runs  through  several  paper-making  towns,  and  as  a  mere  lane 
penetrates  the  heart  of  Maine's  great  North  Woods,  traversing  100  miles 
of  unbroken  forest  with  little  sign  of  human  habitation.  It  crosses  the 
Katahdin  State  Game  Preserve,  above  which  looms  Mount  Katahdin, 
Maine's  highest  peak,  crosses  Ripogenus  Dam,  and  skirts  the  south- 
eastern shores  of  Moosehead  Lake. 

MED  WAY  (alt.  280,  Medway  Town,  pop.  406)  (see  Tour  6),  0  m.,  is  at  a 
junction  with  State  11  (see  Tour  6). 

At  EAST  MILLINOCKET  (alt.  340,  East  Millinocket  Town,  pop.  1593), 
2.6  m.,  the  forest  comes  almost  to  the  back  doors  of  the  small  houses.  The 
community  grew  up  rapidly  in  1907,  when  the  dam  and  mill  of  the  Great 
Northern  Paper  Company  were  completed.  The  economic  existence  of 
the  population,  about  half  of  which  is  French-Canadian,  depends  upon 
the  paper  mill. 

MILLINOCKET  (alt.  359,  Millinocket  Town,  pop.  5830),  12.3  m.,  the 
easternmost  settlement  of  importance  on  the  route,  became  a  boom  town 
in  1899-1900  with  the  building  of  the  Great  Northern  Paper  Company 
Newsprint  Plant,  which  has  become  one  of  the  largest  mills  of  its  kind  in 
the  United  States.  It  produces  620  tons  of  newsprint  paper  and  25  tons  of 


312  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

wrapper  paper  in  addition  to  540  tons  of  ground  wood  and  200  tons  of 
sulphurized  pulp  every  24  hours. 

The  town  differs  from  many  others  in  Maine  in  that  it  did  not  grow  from  a 
handful  of  early  settlers,  but  sprang  up  overnight  in  answer  to  a  labor 
need.  Because  of  the  advantages  of  manufacturing  near  the  source  of  raw 
material,  the  Great  Northern  built  its  plant  on  the  Penobscot  River  at 
a  place  where  a  141 -foot  head  of  water-power  furnishes  abundant  energy. 
The  company  established  and  operates  a  hotel,  financed  homes  for  the 
workers  and  their  families,  and  constructed  roads  connecting  Millinocket 
with  the  outside  world;  it  likewise  saw  to  it  that  stores  were  opened, 
schools  built,  and  a  government  established.  A  year  after  the  completion 
of  the  mill  in  1900,  the  area  was  set  off  from  Indian  Township  No.  3  and 
incorporated. 

At  19.6  m.  the  route  crosses  the  eastern  boundary  of  Unorganized  Town- 
ship No.  i,  Range  9;  although  without  a  name,  this  area  is  not  without 
population  during  the  summer  months.  Many  residents  of  Millinocket 
have  built  summer  homes  on  the  shores  of  Millinocket  Lake  (R).  Black  Cat 
Mountain  (L)  is  the  most  prominent  feature  of  the  landscape. 

At  23.8  m.  the  route  crosses  the  southern  boundary  of  Unorganized  Town- 
ship No.  2,  Range  9.  Lakes  in  this  area  include  Pockwockamus  Pond  at 
the  western  base  of  Trout  Mountain  (alt.  1440),  and  Bottle  Pond  to  the 
south;  Rum,  Tea,  Mink,  and  Rat  Ponds  drain  through  a  boggy  area  into 
Togue  Pond. 
At  27.7  m.  the  route  swings  left. 

At  30.2  m.  the  route  swings  right  to  a  narrow,  winding  road  to  pass  Abol 
Pond  (R)  at  the  foot  of  Abol  Mountain  (alt.  2306). 
The  southwestern  boundary  of  the  Katahdin  State  Game  Preserve  (no  hunt- 
ing permitted]  is  crossed  at  32.8  m.  This  reservation  covers  Township  3, 
Ranges  9  and  10,  and  Township  4,  Ranges  9  and  10,  and  includes  Baxter 
State  Park,  in  which  is  Mt.  Katahdin  (alt.  5267),  the  highest  peak  in 
Maine.  In  the  game  preserve  are  other  peaks  —  North  Brother  (alt.  4143), 
South  Brother  (alt.  3951),  Owl  (alt.  3736),  Fort  (alt.  3861),  and  several 
lower  ones.  The  144  square  miles  of  wilderness,  containing  heavy  forests 
and  numerous  streams  and  ponds,  is  an  ideal  breeding  ground  for  the 
moose,  deer,  bear,  and  smaller  animals  that  make  northern  Maine  one  of 
the  outstanding  hunting  grounds  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  United  States. 
Numerous  trails  and  wood  roads  cross  the  area,  but  it  is  inadvisable  for 
those  unacquainted  with  the  country  to  follow  them  without  a  guide. 

Baxter  State  Park  is  reached  by  the  Hunt  and  Abol  Trails  (see  below;  also 
Sports  and  Recreation),  and  by  the  Appalachian  Mountain  Club  Trail 
from  Stacy ville  (see  Tour  6).  The  area,  containing  9  square  miles,  was 
set  aside  for  public  use  in  1931-33  by  Percival  P.  Baxter,  Governor  of 
Maine,  1921-25,  to  be  kept  unspoiled  and  unexploited. 

Mt.  Katahdin  (Ind.:  'highest  land,'  or  'high  place')  has  had  particular 
attraction  for  many  people,  in  part  because  of  its  grandeur  and  in  part  be- 
cause of  its  wilderness  setting.  Thoreau,  who  hated  community  life  and 


TOUR  7:   From  Medway  to  Greenville  313 

the  spoliation  of  natural  charms,  was  one  of  the  first  to  write  at  length 
about  the  mountain.  He  described  it  as  'a  vast  aggregation  of  loose  rocks, 
as  if  at  some  time  it  had  rained  rocks,  and  they  lay  as  they  fell  on  the 
mountains,  nowhere  fairly  at  rest,  but  leaning  on  each  other,  all  rocking- 
stones,  with  cavities  between,  but  scarcely  any  soil  or  smoother  shelf.' 
It  is  this  formation  that  makes  it  one  of  the  most  difficult  peaks  to  climb 
in  the  East.  So  far  as  is  known,  Charles  Potter,  a  Boston  surveyor,  who 
managed  to  reach  the  top  in  1804,  was  the  first  white  man  to  stand  on  the 
summit.  Forty- two  years  later,  Thoreau  wrote  of  the  view  from  that 
point :  '  The  surrounding  world  looked  as  if  a  huge  mirror  had  been  shat- 
tered, and  glittering  bits  thrown  on  the  grass.' 

The  mountain  always  had  a  special  fascination  for  the  Indians,  who  wove 
many  stories  about  it.  According  to  one  of  them,  the  home  of  the  Moun- 
tain King  and  his  lovely  but  dangerous  daughter  Lightning  was  within  it ; 
they  were  served  by  the  Thunders,  fierce,  giant  warriors.  Kinaldo,  the 
hero,  fell  in  love  with  the  Mountain  King's  daughter,  after  having  seen 
her  beautiful  face  on  the  storm  clouds,  and  left  his  tribe  to  seek  her.  At 
last  he  found  her  in  the  terrible  depths,  and  she,  returning  his  love, 
prevailed  on  her  father  to  hold  a  great  feast  for  him  in  his  hall;  during  the 
feast  she  gave  Kinaldo  a  potion  that  made  him  forget  his  former  life.  For 
a  time  they  lived  happily  together,  but  one  night  he  was  wakened  from  his 
sleep  by  the  tears  of  his  favorite  sister  Winona,  who  had  not  ceased  to 
pray  for  his  return.  Both  the  king  and  the  mountain  princess  tried  to 
prevent  his  leaving,  but  he  persisted.  At  last  the  king  gave  him  permission 
to  go,  but  angrily  warned  him  that  those  who  had  tasted  the  wine  of 
Katahdin  could  no  longer  live  long  among  men.  Lightning  bade  her  lover 
farewell,  saying,  '  Go,  but  tomorrow  at  sunset  I  come  and  thou  wilt  not 
forsake  me.'  Kinaldo  made  his  way  down  over  the  rocks  and  at  length 
reached  his  home  village ;  he  thought  he  had  been  away  only  a  short  time, 
but  he  found  many  changes  had  taken  place  and  Winona  was  already 
a  woman.  In  spite  of  his  joy  over  seeing  his  friends  and  kinsfolk  again, 
he  was  restless  and  uneasy.  As  evening  came  a  storm  began  to  gather 
over  Katahdin  and  he  heard  the  mutter  of  the  Thunders,  which  did  not 
add  to  his  peace  of  mind.  The  Thunders  came  closer  and  a  terror  seized 
him;  but  suddenly  he  saw  his  loved  one  among  the  thunderheads.  A 
blinding  streak  of  lightning  seemed  to  reach  out  and  seize  Kinaldo. 
When  the  storm  cleared,  Katahdin  was  bathed  in  glittering  light  and  the 
dead  warrior  lay  as  asleep  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 

Another  story,  a  favorite  of  the  Abnaki  women,  was  of  a  girl  who  loved 
the  mountain,  imagining  that  it  was  a  strong,  handsome  young  man  and 
praying  that  he  would  some  day  come  to  her.  One  day  she  went  blueberry 
picking  alone  and  failed  to  return;  three  years  later  she  came  into  camp 
with  a  beautiful  baby  boy  in  her  arms,  who  was  marked  by  eyebrows  of 
stone.  Despite  the  gossip  of  the  village,  she  gave  no  explanation  of  her 
absence  and  would  not  name  the  father  of  her  child.  The  boy  grew  in 
beauty  and  stature  and  gradually  the  village  people  discovered  that  he  had 
miraculous  power;  if  he  pointed  his  finger  at  bird,  fish,  or  animal,  it  cUed. 


314  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

He  rarely  exercised  this  power,  however,  until  one  terrible  winter  when 
there  was  little  game  and  what  there  was  was  fleet  and  hard  to  kill.  The 
miracles  of  hunting  accomplished  by  the  small  boy  set  the  tongues 
wagging  afresh;  night  and  day  the  women,  old  and  young,  teased  the 
mother  and  such  was  their  curiosity  about  the  boy  that  they  forgot  how 
much  they  owed  to  his  prowess  and  made  insinuations  about  his  paternity. 
Tired  and  angered  by  their  cruelty  and  ingratitude,  the  mother  at  last 
burst  forth :  '  Fools,  your  folly  kills  you !  You  must  have  known  from  his 
eyebrows  that  this  was  Katahdin's  son,  sent  to  save  you.'  And  she  took 
her  god-child  and  departed  forever;  from  that  time  on  the  Abnakis  were  a 
doomed  race,  the  white  men  stealing  their  hunting  grounds  and  in  time 
exterminating  them. 
At  33.6  m.  (R)  is  the  entrance  to  the  Abol  Trail  (see  Sports  and  Recreation}. 

At  37.4  m.  (R)  Hunt  Trail  (see  Sports  and  Recreation)  begins  at  Camp  Bax- 
ter (camp  site). 

At  46.2  m.  stands  the  Sourdnahunk  Depot  Camp  of  the  Great  Northern 
Paper  Company.  In  summer  the  large  number  of  horses  pastured  here, 
grazing  and  resting,  are  the  only  indication  of  the  great  lumbering  activ- 
ities of  the  region.  The  method  of  lumbering  has  been  modernized,  but 
tractors  and  other  machinery  have  not  entirely  replaced  horses. 

At  58  m.  the  route  crosses  the  eastern  boundary  of  Unorganized  Town- 
ship No.  3,  Range  12,  and  swings  south. 

At  59.3  m.  is  the  Ripogenus  Dam,  92  feet  high,  across  the  head  of  the  deep 
Ripogenus  Gorge.  Although  recent  construction  in  various  parts  of  the 
country  has  vastly  exceeded  this  water  storage  in  size,  at  the  time  it  was 
built  (1915-17)  Ripogenus  was  hailed  as  a  great  engineering  feat.  It  stores 
between  20  and  30  million  cubic  feet  of  water,  which  is  released  into  the 
West  Branch  of  the  Penobscot  River. 

At  59.8  m.  is  the  gate  to  the  private  road  of  the  Great  Northern  Paper 

Company. 

At  63.6  m.  the  route  crosses  the  southeastern  boundary  of  Unorganized 

Township  No.  3,  Range  12,  near  the  deadwater  of  Chesuncook  Lake  (R); 

weathered  driki,  densely  packed,  rises  in  masses  above  its  surface. 

There  are  fine  views  up  the  lake,  which  extends  18  miles  to  the  north. 

After  a  long  stretch  of  woods  the  highway  passes  the  southern  end  of 

Ragged  Lake;  due  west  is  a  splendid  view  of  craggy  Spencer  Mountain 

(alt.  3035). 

At  76.5  m.  is  the  southern  gate  to  the  Great  Northern's  private  road 

through  the  big  woods. 

KOKADJO    (Ind.:    'Kettle    Mountain')    (Unorganized    Township    of 

French  town,  pop.  10),  81.3  w..,  has  a  boarding-house  and  filling  station. 

A  large  sign  reads:  'This  is  God's  country  —  Why  set  it  on  fire  and  make 

it  look  like  hell? '  In  this  township  is  First  Kokadjo  Lake,  6  miles  long. 

LILY  BAY  (alt.  1040;  Unorganized  Township  of  Lily  Bay,  pop.  5), 
87.9  m.,  has  a  lumberman's  hotel,  and  a  filling  station. 


TOUR  8:   From  West  Enfield  to  Bingham  315 

South  of  Lily  Bay  the  route  borders  the  southeastern  shore  of  Moosehead 
Lake  (see  Tour  9). 

At  89.2  m.  the  route  enters  Gore  A,  No.  2.  Forest-garbed  Baker  Mountain 
(alt.  3589)  rises  above  the  eastern  part  of  the  township  and  Prong  Pond 
forms  a  blue  patch  on  the  southern  boundary. 

GREENVILLE  (alt.  1040,  Greenville  Town,  pop.  1614)  (see  Tour  9),  95 
m.,  is  at  the  junction  with  State  15  (see  Tour  9).  The  East  Branch 
(Penobscot  River)  and  Allagash  River  Canoe  Trips  (see  Sports  and 
Recreation:  Canoeing)  have  their  starting-point  at  Greenville. 


TOUR    8  :     From  WEST  ENFIELD  to  BINGHAM,  81.1  m., 
State  11,  State  155,  and  State  16. 


Via  Rowland,  Milo,  Dover-Foxcroft,  Guilford,  and  Kingsbury. 

Good  blacktop  roadbed,  with  a  short  stretch  of  gravel  through  Kingsbury. 

THIS  route  through  woods  and  fields  follows  the  winding  course  of  the 
Piscataquis  River,  passing  broad,  tranquil  ponds  and  large,  prosperous 
farms  extending  to  the  outskirts  of  trim  little  towns. 

The  people  of  this  section  enjoy  a  comparatively  steady,  comfortable 
living,  free  from  sudden  booms  and  deep  depression.  Lumbering  was 
begun  here  after  the  reckless  boom  period  that  left  depleted  forests  and 
dead  mill  towns  in  its  wake :  production,  now  on  a  scientific  basis,  is  kept 
at  a  constant  level,  thus  providing  regular  employment. 

WEST  ENFIELD  (alt.  140,  Enfield  Town,  pop.  1138),  0  m.  (see  Tour  4), 
is  at  a  junction  with  US  2  (see  Tour  4). 

HOWLAND  (alt.  150,  Howland  Town,  pop.  1605),  1.4  m.,  entered  from 
the  east  over  a  bridge  spanning  the  Penobscot  River,  is  an  industrial  and 
agricultural  village  at  the  confluence  of  the  Penobscot  and  Piscataquis 
Rivers.  Settled  in  1818,  it  has  grown  up  around  large  paper  mills;  cor- 
poration-owned houses  are  characteristic.  In  spring  the  rivers  rise  sud- 
denly and  the  swirling  waters  toss  logs  and  pulpwood  high  into  the  air. 
Many  log  jams  result  from  this  spectacular  display. 

LAGRANGE  (alt.  310,  LaGrange  Town,  pop.  468),  14.1  m.,  lies  in  a  fertile 
farming  country,  well  adapted  to  cultivation.  Since  LaGrange  was  first 
settled,  about  1823,  the  inhabitants  have  depended  upon  the  soil  for  their 
livelihood,  farm  properties  being  handed  down  from  one  generation  to 
another. 

At  LaGrange  the  route  turns  right  on  State  155. 

BO  YD  LAKE  (alt.  287,  Orneville  Town,  pop.  284),  17.3  m.  A  few  houses 


316  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

grouped  on  the  highway  at  the  point  nearest  the  lake  constitute  this  little 
settlement.  This  obscure  town  was  once  the  home  of  the  Maxim  family, 
two  sons  of  which  played  a  not  insignificant  part  in  the  destiny  of  mankind. 

Hudson  Maxim,  brother  of  Sir  Hiram  Maxim,  machine-gun  inventor, 
was  born  here  in  1853.  He  was  an  inventor  in  his  own  right.  Smokeless 
cannon  powder,  a  shock-proof  high  explosive  for  guns  of  large  caliber, 
gun  cartridges,  and  a  new  system  for  discharging  high  explosives  from 
ordnance  were  among  his  contributions.  He  was  paid  $50,000  by  the  U.S. 
Government  for  his  production  of  'Maximite,'  an  explosive  fifty  per  cent 
more  powerful  than  dynamite,  that  could  propel  a  projectile  through 
heavy  armor  plate. 

He  was  also  deeply  interested  in  the  technique  and  scope  of  poetry.  He 
published  a  weighty  volume,  '  The  Science  of  Poetry  and  the  Philosophy 
of  Language.'  Although,  like  his  brother,  he  resided  in  England  for  many 
years,  he  was  a  frequent  visitor  to  the  United  States.  On  one  visit  he  was 
guest  of  honor  of  the  Poetry  Society  of  America;  his  remarks  on  that 
occasion  are  recalled  for  their  scientific  erudition. 

For  the  first  18  years  of  his  life  he  was  known  as  Isaac,  having  been  named 
for  his  father,  who  was  also  an  inventor.  Disliking  the  name,  he  had  him- 
self called  Hudson. 

MILO  (alt.  295,  Milo  Town,  pop.  2910),  25.3  m.,  an  industrial,  com- 
mercial, and  farming  community,  stands  at  a  point  where  the  Sebec 
River  forms  a  junction  with  the  Piscataquis,  the  combined  waters 
furnishing  power  for  several  manufacturing  concerns.  With  the  estab- 
lishment of  a  large  spool  mill  in  1901,  and  the  building  of  the  Bangor  and 
Aroostook  Railroad  car  shops  in  1905  at  Derby  (see  below),  the  population 
of  the  town  more  than  doubled  between  1900  and  1910. 

The  American  Thread  Company  (permit  at  office),  employing  nearly  400 
people  in  full  time,  uses  many  cords  of  white  birch  in  the  manufacture  of 
spools  and  box  snooks.  Other  products  manufactured  in  Milo  are 
worsted  yarn,  and  paper  and  excelsior  made  from  the  wood  of  poplar  trees. 

In  towns  like  Milo,  set  in  a  heavily  wooded  area,  the  populace  is  in 
constant  dread  of  that  menace  of  the  timberlands,  the  forest  fire.  Know- 
ing that  entire  townships  as  well  as  thousands  of  acres  of  valuable  timber 
may  be  laid  waste,  every  able-bodied  man,  woman,  and  child  springs  into 
action  when  the  first  shrill  scream  of  the  fire  siren  pierces  the  hum  of  the 
mills.  A  moment's  delay  and  the  flames,  leaping  from  undergrowth  to 
treetops,  may  be  caught  by  the  wind  and  fanned  quickly  into  a  blistering, 
roaring  inferno,  hurtling  through  the  resinous  upper  branches  of  the  ever- 
greens. Flames  sometimes  leap  30  feet  into  the  black  pall  of  smoke  hang- 
ing above  the  crackling  treetops. 

As  the  trees  crash  to  earth  in  a  shower  of  flames  and  flying  sparks,  blazing 
embers  are  caught  up  on  a  current  of  acrid  smoke  and  borne  far  in  ad- 
vance of  the  fire.  Where  each  spark  falls,  a  new  blaze  springs  up,  and  in  an 
incredibly  short  time  the  fire  has  reached  conflagration  proportions. 
Every  means,  from  bucket  brigades  to  backfiring,  is  employed  to  prevent 
such  disasters. 


TOUR  8:   From  West  Enfield  to  Bingham  317 

Here  is  a  junction  with  State  221  (see  Tour  8A). 

1.  Right  from  Milo  on  an  improved  road  is  Schoodic  Lake,  8.3  m.,  site  of  the 
former  village  of  Lakeview  where  the  American  Thread  Company  once  operated  a 
spool  mill.   The  view  of  the  lake,  noted  for  its  trout  fishing,  is  exceptional,  with 
Mt.  Katahdin  looming  darkly  in  the  background. 

2.  Left  from  Milo  on  a  tarred  road  is  DERBY  (alt.  280,  Milo  Town),  1.6  m.  The 
large  Car  Shops  (not  open)  of  the  Bangor  and  Aroostook  Railroad  are  the  center  of 
this  community.   The  entire  village  is  well  landscaped  with  lawns  and  shrubbery 
around  the  plant,  in  front  of  residences  and  in  the  small  parks  receiving  exacting 
care  from  company  gardeners.   The  corporation  houses  are  both  comfortable  and 
distinctive,  and  a  playground  with  tennis  courts  and  swimming  pool  has  also  been 
built  by  the  railroad.  This  modern  village,  including  marked  and  numbered  park- 
ing spaces,  is  a  surprising  example  of  a  planned  municipality  'way  up  in  Maine.' 

SEBEC  CORNER  (alt.  440,  Sebec  Town,  pop.  357),  31.7  m. 

DOVER-FOXCROFT  (alt.  330,  Dover-Foxcroft  Town,  pop.  3742),  40  m. 
This  enterprising  mill  town  is  made  up  of  Foxcrof  t  on  the  north  side  of  the 
picturesque  Piscataquis  River  and  Dover  on  the  south.  The  two  com- 
munities, settled  and  developed  separately,  became  one  town  in  1922. 
The  water-power  of  the  river  is  utilized  in  the  manufacture  of  woolen 
goods  in  two  mills  owned  and  operated  by  the  American  Woolen  Com- 
pany which  employs  most  of  the  population. 

Dover-Foxcroft  was  the  home  of  John  Francis  Sprague  (1848-1926), 
prominent  in  historical  research  in  Maine.  Many  Maine  schools  use  his 
'  Journal  of  Maine  History '  as  a  standard  authority.  His  writings  appear 
among  the  collections  of  the  Maine  Historical  Society  (see  PORTLAND), 
and  among  his  published  works  are  'Sebastian  Rasle,'  'Backwoods 
Sketches,'  'The  Northeastern  Boundary  Controversy,'  and  'The  Aroos- 
took War.' 

Mrs.  Lillian  M.  N.  Stevens  (1844-1914),  president  of  the  Women's 
Christian  Temperance  Union  from  1898  until  the  time  of  her  death,  was 
born  in  Dover.  She  was  instrumental  in  forming  both  the  national  and 
State  organizations,  and  was  likewise  president  of  the  latter  from  1877  on. 

John  Colby  Weston,  first  Maine  man  to  enlist  in  the  Civil  War,  was  a 
native  of  Foxcroft. 

Here  is  a  junction  with  State  7  (see  Tour  9). 
At  40.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  153. 

Right  on  State  153  to  Sebec  Lake,  4.5  m.,  popular  for  salmon,  lake  trout,  and  bass 
fishing. 

At  47.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  24. 

Left  on  State  24  is  SANGERVILLE  (alt.  440,  Sangerville  Town,  pop.  1225),  0.5 
m.,  a  manufacturing  and  agricultural  village,  the  birthplace  of  Hiram,  later 
Sir  Hiram,  Maxim  (1840-1916),  the  inventor  of  the  machine  gun  which  bears  his 
name.  At  the  age  of  14  he  started  out  to  make  his  fortune,  first  by  working  in  a 
carriage  shop,  then  in  the  shop  of  a  maker  of  'philosophical  instruments'  in  Boston, 
later  in  a  shop  in  Montreal,  Canada.  He  then  turned  his  attention  to  applied 
science,  and  invented  a  smokeless  powder,  an  automatic  gas  headlight  for  loco- 
motives, a  gas-generating  apparatus,  automatic  steam  pump,  vacuum  pumps, 
feed-valve  heaters,  engine  governors,  and  many  other  devices. 


31 8  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

In  1881  certain  of  his  electric  patents  were  put  into  'interference'  with  Edison's, 
and  in  four  trials,  decisions  were  in  Maxim's  favor.  The  Maxim  gun  was  com- 
pleted only  after  he  had  acquired  a  fortune  from  other  inventions  following  the 
establishment  of  his  own  factory  in  England.  In  the  course  of  time  the  Prince  of 
Wales  (Edward  VII)  and  other  members  of  the  nobility  became  convinced  that  the 
device  was  practicable.  After  a  demonstration  in  Switzerland,  the  government  of 
that  country  gave  him  an  order,  with  Italy,  Austria,  and  then  England  following 
suit.  The  gun  with  which  he  gave  his  demonstration  in  England  is  now  in  South 
Kensington  Museum. 

In  the  United  States  the  gun  was  not  accepted  until  the  war  with  Spain  (1898).  It 
was  used  by  many  nations  during  the  World  War.  Factories  in  Spain,  Portugal, 
Sweden,  England,  and  the  United  States  were  owned  by  Maxim  for  the  manu- 
facturing of  a  torpedo  boat  which  he  also  designed.  For  his  contributions  to 
effective  warfare,  the  inventor  received  honors  and  decorations  from  nearly  every 
sovereign  of  Europe.  He  spent  a  great  part  of  his  life  in  England  and  was  knighted 
by  the  British  Government  in  1901. 

GUILFORD  (alt.  430,  Guilford  Town,  pop.  1735),  48.7  m.,  spreading  on 
both  sides  of  the  Piscataquis  River,  is  an  active  industrial  town  chiefly 
engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  woolens  and  wood  products. 

In  1803,  a  handful  of  men  settled  in  what  is  now  known  as  Guilford  with 
'a  determination  to  admit  on  their  part  no  person  as  a  settler  who  was 
not  industrious,  orderly,  moral,  and  well-disposed.'  In  1806,  the  men 
residing  in  the  township  living  so  harmoniously  together  were  called  '  the 
seven  wise  men  of  Guilford.' 

ABBOT  (alt.  450,  Abbot  Town,  pop.  524),  53.1  m.,  is  at  junction  with 
State  15  (see  Tour  9). 

KINGSBURY  (alt.  520,  Kingsbury  Plantation,  pop.  50),  66.3  m.  This 
tiny  village  at  the  east  end  of  Kingsbury  Pond,  guarded  by  an  archway 
of  tall  pines,  is  engaged  in  lumbering  operations  in  winter  and  is  a  small 
fishing  resort  in  summer.  For  50  years  after  Moosehead  Lake  became  a 
sporting  center  in  1836,  mail  was  brought  south  over  Russell  Mountain  by 
pack-carrier  to  the  Kingsbury  Post  Office. 

At  78.4  m.  the  highway  passes  over  a  section  of  Johnson  Mountain  (alt. 
1620),  with  a  fine  panoramic  view  of  the  Bigelow  Range  and  the  broad 
Kennebec  River  in  the  foreground. 

BINGHAM  (alt.  355,  Bingham  Town,  pop.  1590)  (see  Tour  10),  81.1  m., 
is  at  a  junction  with  US  201  (see  Tour  10). 


TOUR     8  A  :     From  MILO  to  KATAHDIN  IRON  WORKS, 
20.5  m.t  State  221  and  unnumbered  road. 


Via  Brownville. 

Tarred  roadbed  to  Brownville  Junction;  wide  gravel  to  airport;  then  one-lane 
gravel  road. 

Accommodations  include,  besides  a  small  hotel  at  Brownville  Junction,  sporting 
camps  reached  by  buckboard  or  hiking  from  Katahdin  Iron  Works  where 
reservations  can  be  made  and  transportation  arranged  by  telephone. 

THIS  route  reaches  a  heretofore  inaccessible  hunting  and  fishing  country. 
At  0  m.  State  221  branches  north  from  Milo  (see  Tour  8). 

BROWNVILLE  (alt.  350,  Brownville  Town,  pop.  1911),  5  m.,  lies  on 
both  sides  of  Pleasant  River  near  a  dam. 

On  the  far  bank  of  the  river  north  of  the  village,  and  visible  from  the  high- 
way, are  long  heaps  of  slate  that  show  where  quarrying  was  done  until  20 
years  ago.  Brownville  slate  won  first  prize  at  the  1876  Centennial  Ex- 
position in  Philadelphia  as  the  finest  roofing  slate  in  the  country. 

At  6.1  m.  (L)  is  the  Maine  Forest  Station  of  the  Pleasant  River  District. 
At  8.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  tarred  road. 

Left  here  to  BROWNVILLE  JUNCTION  (alt.  390,  Brownville  Town),  0.5  m., 
which  has  a  small  hotel  and  the  farthest  north  gas  station  on  this  road. 

At  14.2  m.  (R)  is  Brownville  Prairie  Airport. 

At  14.7  m.  the  highway  crosses  a  bridge  of  unusual  construction.  The 
floor  consists  of  a  long  log  on  each  side  spanning  the  stream,  with  shorter 
logs  fastened  crosswise  to  them  by  rather  loosely  tied  wire  cable.  Under- 
neath is  another  cross-tied  group  of  logs. 

Towering  pines  of  great  beauty  crowd  close  to  the  road  north  of  the  rolling 
log  bridge ;  shorter  hardwood  and  conifers,  spruce  predominating,  mingle 
with  the  pines. 

KATAHDIN  IRON  WORKS  (alt.  580,  Unorganized  Township  of 
Katahdin  Iron  Works,  pop.  42),  20.5  m.  A  deposit  of  bog  iron  ore,  a 
variety  of  hematite,  was  discovered  about  1843  in  the  northern  part  of  this 
town  at  the  foot  of  Ore  Mountain,  and  the  development  of  the  mine  and 
the  construction  of  the  smelting  mill  were  started.  The  property  has 
changed  hands  several  times.  Because  of  lack  of  shipping  facilities  little 
work  has  been  done  in  recent  years. 

Other  valuable  mineral  deposits,  including  pigments  and  copper,  can  be 
mined  but  not  profitably,  because  of  the  inaccessibility  of  the  area.  A 
large  deposit  of  asbestos,  said  to  be  of  excellent  quality,  has  been  surveyed 
but  no  attempt  has  been  made  to  mine  it. 


32O  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Some  of  the  old  buildings  of  the  Iron  Works  at  the  southern  end  of  Silver 
Lake  are  now  used  as  base  headquarters  in  the  lumbering  operations  of 
the  Pleasant  River  Lumber  Company. 

The  Gulf,  also  known  as  Little  Jaws  and  the  Grand  Canyon  of  the  East,  on 
Pleasant  River,  is  about  4  miles  northwest;  it  cannot  be  visited  except  by 
trail.  Houston  Pond  and  Indian  Pond  are  visited  by  canoes  and  trails. 
Little  Wilson  and  Pleasant  Rivers,  noted  for  their  beautiful  waterfalls 
and  cascades,  canyons,  deep  gorges,  and  rugged  profiles,  are  easily  acces- 
sible by  marked  woodland  trails.  Trout  fishing  in  the  various  waters  is 
excellent. 


TOUR      9  :     From  WATERVILLE  to  CANADIAN  LINE  (St. 
Zacharie,  P.Q.\  168.9  m.,  State  11,  State  7,  and  State  15. 


Via  Benton,  Pittsfield,  Newport,  Dover-Foxcroft,  Greenville,  Rockwood,  and 
Pittston  Farm. 

Cement  and  tarred  roadbed  between  Fairfield  and  Greenville;  gravel  and  im- 
proved between  Greenville  and  Rockwood;  improved  private  road  of  Great 
Northern  Paper  Company  between  Rockwood  and  Canadian  Line. 

No  filling  stations  and  only  fire-patrol  telephones  northwest  of  Rockwood; 
limited  accommodations  in  same  area. 

THE  southern  section  of  this  route  runs  through  a  country  in  which 
farming,  quarrying,  and  some  manufacturing  are  carried  on.  North  of 
Greenville  the  route  skirts  the  western  side  of  Moosehead  Lake,  then  runs 
through  the  broad  forest  lands  owned  by  the  Great  Northern  Paper 
Company,  the  scene  of  lumbering  operations  in  winter. 

WATERVILLE  (alt.  95,  pop.  15,454)  (see  WATERVILLE),  0  m.,  a  point 

touched  on  the  Lower  Kennebec  Waters  and  Belgrade  Lakes  Canoe  Trips 

(see  Sports  and  Recreation:  Canoeing),  is  at  the  junction  of  US  201 

(see  Tour  10).    Between  Waterville  and  Fairfield  US  201  and  State  11 

are  one  route. 

State  11  branches  east  from  US  201  (see  Tour  10)  at  FAIRFIELD,  2.9  m. 

At  BENTON  (alt.  130,  Benton  Town,  pop.  1156),  3.4  m.,  the  highway 

swings  northeast. 

At  5  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  improved  road. 

Right  on  this  road,  which  follows  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Sebasticook  River,  is 
BENTON  FALLS  (alt.  130,  Benton  Town),  1  m.,  the  oldest  village  in  the  area. 
.  The  David  Reed  House  (L),  an  inn  of  the  post-road  days,  though  vacant,  is  in  a  fair 
state  of  repair.  The  ell,  which  contains  a  kitchen  with  an  old-fashioned  brick  oven, 
was  built  in  1813,  a  few  years  before  the  present  two-storied  main  structure,  which 
is  square  with  a  gabled  roof.  In  the  early  days  this  place  was  a  welcome  sight  to  the 


TOUR  9:   From  Waterville  to  St.  Zacharie  321 

tired  and  thirsty  travelers  in  the  sparsely  settled  region.  During  the  periods  of 
militia  training,  the  tavern  was  headquarters  for  the  out-of-town  men,  who  met  at 
the  bar  to  exchange  gossip,  elect  officers,  and  conduct  initiation  ceremonies. 
The  Asher  Hinds  House  (private),  next  to  the  Reed  House,  was  built  in  1830  by 
Hinds,  a  storekeeper  who  had  been  an  early  settler  and  was  of  some  importance  in 
local  politics.  The  one-and-a-half-story  house,  an  unusually  attractive  structure 
for  the  region  and  period  in  which  it  was  built,  has  a  recessed  doorway. 
The  Congregational  Church,  built  more  than  a  century  ago,  contains  a  fine  bell  said 
to  IDC  the  last  sold  from  the  Revere  foundry  in  Massachusetts.  This  heavy  bell, 
which  had  been  brought  by  schooner  from  Boston  without  mishap,  while  being 
transferred  to  a  scow  for  the  last  few  miles  of  the  journey,  slipped  off  the  planks 
into  the  river,  where  it  lay  for  several  days,  to  the  distress  of  the  settlers  who  had 
made  considerable  investment  in  this  crowning  glory  for  their  church.  The  im- 
mersion did  it  no  harm,  however,  and  its  tone  is  clear  and  mellow. 

CLINTON  (alt.  140,  Clinton  Town,  pop.  1354),  9.2  m.,  has  a  woolen  mill 
and  a  refrigerator  factory. 

BURNHAM  (alt.  155,  Burnham  Town,  pop.  664),  14.6  m.,  is  on  the 
Maine  Central  R.R.  at  the  junction  with  the  western  terminus  of  the 
Belfast  and  Moosehead  Lake  R.R. 

Right  from  Burnham  on  a  good  local  road  to  WINNECOOK,  4  m.,  small  summer 
resort  overlooking  Unity  Pond.  The  No.  i  fairway  of  the  Golf  Course  (greens  fee  $1) 
parallels  an  Abnaki  Indian  migration  trail;  part  of  the  hazard  of  No.  6  fairway  is  a 
large  meteor. 

PITTSFIELD  (alt.  210,  Pittsfield  Town,  pop'.  3075),  21.7  m.,  busy  trad- 
ing place  for  the  surrounding  agricultural  section,  includes  among  its 
local  industries  a  small  woolen  mill,  a  shoddy  mill,  and  a  shoe  factory. 

Maine  Central  Institute  (L),  South  Main  St.,  was  founded  in  1869,  and  its 
first  class  had  one  member.  It  is  a  college  preparatory  institution. 

Llewellyn  Powers,  Governor  of  Maine  from  1897  to  1901,  Carl  E.  Milliken, 
Governor  from  1917  to  1921,  and  Hugh  Pendexter  (1875),  poet  and  novel- 
ist, were  born  in  this  town. 

NEWPORT  (alt.  200,  Newport  Town,  pop.  1731)  (see  Tour  4),  29.2  m.,  is 
at  a  junction  with  US  2  (see  Tour  4).  State  11  north  of  this  point  is  united 
with  State  7. 
Governor  Lewis  O.  Barrows  (1937-        )  is  a  native  of  Newport. 

CORINNA  (alt.  350,  Corinna  Town,  pop.  1485),  35.6  m.,'a  compact 
settlement  with  two  woolen  mills,  a  small  lumber  mill,  and  a  cannery,  is 
the  birthplace  (1866)  of  Gilbert  Patten,  who,  under  the  nom  de  plume 
Bert  L.  Standish,  wrote  the  Frank  Merriwell  series  of  boys'  books. 
The  route  swings  north  on  State  7  at  Corinna. 

DEXTER  (alt.  480,  Dexter  Town,  pop.  4063),  43.5  m.,  an  industrial 
community,  lies  on  a  hillside  sloping  down  to  the  southern  shore  of 
Wassookeag  Lake. 

Dexter  is  the  birthplace  of  Ralph  0.  Brewster,  U.S.  Representative 
(J935~        )  and  Maine's  5ist  governor  (1925-28). 
Wassookeag  School  (R),  on  High  St.,  a  private  college  preparatory  institu- 
tion using  modern  teaching  methods,  has  one  teacher  for  every  three 
pupils. 


322  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

The  Amos  Abbott  Company  Mill  (open  to  public),  opened  in  1820,  has  re- 
mained under  the  management  of  the  same  family  for  four  generations. 
It  was  built  in  the  wilderness  when  machinery  and  supplies  were  brought 
from  Boston  to  Bangor  in  sailing  vessels  and  then  hauled  by  ox  teams 
over  rough  logging  roads  to  this  place. 

Between  DOVER-FOXCROFT  (alt.  330,  Dover-Foxcroft  Town,  pop. 
3742)  (see  Tour  8),  56.8  m.,  and  ABBOT  (alt.  450,  Abbot  Town,  pop. 
524),  69.2  m.}  State  15  and  State  16  are  one  route  (see  Tour  8).  The  route 
swings  left  in  Dover-Foxcroft  and  at  Abbot  State  15  turns  right. 

On  State  15  is  MONSON  (Monson  Town,  pop.  1181),  76.6  m.  Dense 
woods  encircle  this  village  perched  high  on  a  slate  ridge,  its  hillsides  cut  by 
deep,  slate-walled  quarries,  in  which  for  70  years  the  pit  method  of 
quarrying  was  carried  on.  The  shaft  method,  operating  with  compressed 
air,  has  been  used  for  the  past  five  years.  The  ridge  under  the  town,  and 
for  miles  north,  has  a  base  of  slate  of  the  finest  quality.  Exhaustive  ex- 
periments have  demonstrated  that  the  slate,  because  of  its  small  mineral 
content,  is  better  than  any  other  for  use  in  the  manufacture  of  electrical 
goods. 

Many  brooks  and  streams  near  Monson  afford  excellent  trout  fishing. 
At  83.1  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  improved  road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  SHIRLEY  MILLS  (alt.  noo,  Shirley  Town,  pop.  197),  2  m., 
the  birthplace  of  Bill  Nye,  the  humorist,  who  was  born  in  1850  and  christened 
Edgar  Wilson  Nye.  His  family  moved  to  Wisconsin  three  years  later.  From  about 
1878  until  his  death  in  1896  his  amusing  letters  and  whimsical  comments  on  the 
social  and  political  life  of  the  times  gained  him  nation-wide  fame.  He  traveled 
extensively  through  the  United  States,  Canada,  and  Europe  as  a  lecturer.  The 
house  in  which  he  was  born  has  burned;  the  site  of  the  house  is  south  of  the  post 
office. 

GREENVILLE  (alt.  1040,  Greenville  Town,  pop.  1614),  90.5  m.,  where 
guides  are  available,  is  the  sporting  center  for  the  southern  antler  of  the 
Moosehead  region.  Fishing,  hunting,  camping,  canoeing,  and  mountain 
climbing  (see  Sports  and  Recreation)  are  the  sports  for  which  the  settle- 
ment acts  as  a  starting-point  and  supply  base. 

The  village  has  hotels,  sportsmen's  camps,  overnight  cabins,  and  tenting 
space  (cap.  2000,  reservations  essential),  is  on  the  Canadian  Pacific  and 
Bangor  and  Aroostook  R.R.s,  and  has  steamboat  service  (variable 
schedule,  apply  at  wharf)  to  all  points  on  Moosehead  Lake. 

Moosehead  Lake  (see  also  Sports  and  Recreation),  greatest  of  all  New 
England  lakes,  cuts  through  the  almost  trackless  wilderness  for  a  stretch 
of  about  35  miles,  hemmed  by  rugged  mountains  and  flanked  by  the 
virgin  forest.  It  is  from  i  to  nearly  20  miles  in  width,  with  a  shore  line  of 
about  350  miles,  and  lies  1028  feet  above  the  sea.  The  air  is  particularly 
invigorating.  Since  the  first  lake  steamer  was  launched  in  1836,  it  has 
been  a  famous  recreational  center.  Many  visitors  have  been  enthusiastic 
about  this  primitive  country;  the  poet,  Whittier,  wrote  'To  a  Pine  Tree' 
after  he  had  visited  Moosehead  and  its  forests. 

In  the  center  of  the  lake  Mount  Kineo  (see  below),  an  abrupt  peak  of 


TOUR  9 :   From  Waterville  to  St.  Zacharie  323 

flint,  rises  out  of  the  deep  waters.  North  of  Kineo  the  lake  is  bordered  by  a 
plateau  of  densely  covered  wild  land.  Below  Kineo  the  southern  shore  is 
dominated  by  Lily  Bay,  Baker,  and  Big  and  Little  Squaw  Mountains. 
Near  the  middle  of  the  lower  bay  are  the  2200  wooded  acres  of  Deer 
Island  and  the  sprawling  expanse  of  Sugar  Island. 

Moosehead  is  a  breeding  ground  of  squaretailed  trout,  salmon,  and 
togue ;  as  the  fishing  season  draws  to  its  close,  the  bright  scarlet  of  hunters' 
caps  are  but  little  brighter  than  the  flaming  autumn  leaves  dropping  into 
the  water  along  the  shore,  for  Moosehead  is  as  renowned  for  its  plentiful 
game  as  for  the  excellence  of  its  fishing. 

GREENVILLE  JUNCTION  (Greenville  Town),  92.3  m.,  is  the  meeting 
point  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  and  Bangor  and  Aroostook  R.R.s;  it  is  on 
the  southern  shore  of  Moosehead  Lake. 

UNORGANIZED  TOWNSHIP  NO.  2,  RANGE  6  (alt.  1600),  95.7  m., 
with  a  hotel  and  camps  (guides  available),  is  commonly  called  Big  Squaw 
Township  and  embraces  an  area  of  primitive  beauty,  in  which  some 
lumbering  is  carried  on.  The  hotel  and  camps  are  headquarters  for 
hunters  and  fishermen. 

Big  Squaw  Mountain  (alt.  3267),  the  chief  landmark  of  the  township,  rises 
above  the  southern  antler  of  Moosehead.  There  is  an  Indian  legend  that 
long  ago  Kineo,  a  great  warrier  of  such  bad  disposition  that  he  constantly 
quarreled  with  his  fellow  tribesmen  and  eventually  left  them  to  sulk,  in 
time  reached  the  mountain  that  now  bears  his  name,  rising  between  the 
two  antlers  of  the  lake.  There  he  took  up  his  abode,  hunting  each  day  in 
the  neighboring  forests,  but  always  returning  at  night  to  his  mountain. 
Resentment  against  the  tribesmen  who  had  scorned  him  increased  as  he 
grew  more  lonely.  One  evening  as  he  sat  looking  down  over  the  black 
waters  of  the  lake  he  saw  a  bright  blade  of  flame  on  what  is  now  called 
Squaw  Mountain;  the  next  day  he  started  south  to  investigate  it  secretly. 
Arriving  at  the  summit  at  dusk,  he  found  the  embers  of  the  fire  and  be- 
side it  his  exhausted  old  mother,  who  had  followed  him  to  bring  him  back 
to  his  kinsmen;  as  she  died  she  begged  him  to  return.  Kineo  buried  her 
by  her  fire  and,  grief  stricken  because  he  had  been  the  cause  of  her  death, 
obeyed  her  request.  Since  then,  the  Indians  have  called  the  mountain  by 
the  name  it  now  bears  officially. 

At  98.7  m.  (L)  is  a  State  Fish  Hatchery  (open),  where,  in  more  than  3  miles 
of  runs  and  breeding  pools,  hundreds  of  thousands  of  landlocked  salmon 
(salmo  Sebago)  are  annually  raised  for  distribution  in  various  fishing 
waters. 

UNORGANIZED  TOWNSHIP  NO.  i,  RANGE  7  (alt.  1050,  pop.  5), 
entered  at  107.4  m.,  is  commonly  called  Sapling.  Numerous  small  streams 
mirroring  the  delicate  tracery  of  white  and  yellow  birch,vand  affording 
excellent  fishing,  cut  through  this  heavily  wooded  township  on  the 
western  shore  of  Moosehead  Lake  and  the  banks  of  the  Kennebec  River. 
MISERY  GORE  (alt.  1500),  110  w.,  an  unpopulated  area  25  miles  long 
and  less  than  0.5  mile  wide  at  its  widest  point,  is  a  sliver  of  land  left  by 


324  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

corrections  of  early  surveys  of  township  boundaries;  it  is  not  included  in 
any  township. 

The  southeastern  boundary  of  UNORGANIZED  TOWNSHIP  OF 
ASKWITH  (alt.  1400,  pop.  56)  is  crossed  at  110.6  m. ;  the  area  is  popularly 
called  West  Outlet,  but  is  also  known  as  Taunton  and  Raynham.  This 
township  is  renowned  for  its  hunting  and  fishing,  much  game  being  found 
in  the  vast  expanse  of  timber  land,  and  the  clear  streams  offering  unusual 
opportunities  for  fishing.  The  west  outlet  of  Moosehead  Lake  here  forms 
the  northern  boundary  of  a  State  Game  Preserve  (no  hunting  allowed) 
which  extends  south  through  two  townships  to  Squaw  Brook. 

ROCKWOOD  (alt.  1050,  Unorganized  Township  of  Rockwood,  pop. 
315),  115.1  m.,  sometimes  known  as  Kineo  Station,  with  hotels,  camps, 
and  cottages,  has  steamer  service  (variable  schedule,  apply  at  wharf)  to 
points  on  Moosehead  Lake  (see  above),  on  whose  western  shore  the  village 
lies.  Just  north  of  the  settlement  the  road  follows  the  shore  of  the  lake, 
with  excellent  views  to  the  north. 

Across  the  lake  which  at  this  point  is  only  about  i  mile  wide,  Mount  Kineo 
(alt.  1806)  thrusts  itself  above  the  waters  and  far-flung  forests  of  the  lake's 
eastern  shores.  This  mountain,  a  round  peninsula  connected  with  the 
mainland  by  a  narrow  neck,  is  composed  of  flint.  At  the  foot,  broken 
and  incomplete  stone  implements  from  early  Indian  workshops  have  been 
found.  Many  of  the  New  England  tribes  came  here  for  flint  and  it  is  be- 
lieved that  this  mountain  was  also  the  source  of  the  iron  pyrites  used  by 
the  Red  Paint  People  (see  Earliest  Inhabitants)  for  fire  stones. 

At  its  southern  base,  on  the  lake  shore,  is  the  Kineo  House,  long  a  favorite 
with  sportsmen  and  with  lovers  of  primitive  lake  and  mountain  scenery. 

The  UNORGANIZED  TOWNSHIP  OF  TOMHEGAN  is  entered  at 
118.2  m.;  it  lies  between  Moosehead  and  Brassua  (bras'-a-wa)  Lakes,  in 
both  of  which  are  excellent  fishing.   Game  abounds  throughout  the  area, 
though  hunters  must  not  enter  the  State  Game  Preserve  to  the  south. 
At  138.6  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  gravel  road. 

Right  on  this  road,  which  follows  the  southern  shore  of  Seboomook  Lake,  much  of 
which  is  dead  water,  to  SEBOOMOOK  (Unorganized  Township  of  Seboomook, 
pop.  24),  10  m.,  a  tiny,  buried  settlement  of  guides  and  woodsmen  on  the  extreme 
northern  shore  of  Moosehead  Lake  (see  above). 

From  Seboomook  extends  the  3-mile  Northwest  Carry  to  the  Penobscot  River 
(West  Branch),  a  terminal  of  the  Allagash  River  Canoe  Trip  (see  Sports  and 
Recreation:  Canoeing). 

Pittston  Farm,  139.6  m.,  surrounded  by  broad  fertile  fields,  at  a  junction 
of  the  northern  and  southern  branches  of  the  Penobscot  River,  holds  a 
collection  of  large,  white  buildings;  it  is  one  of  the  several  isolated  farms 
maintained  by  the  Great  Northern  Paper  Company  for  the  care  of  horses 
in  summer  and  the  raising  of  produce  to  supply  logging  camps  during 
winter  lumbering  activities. 
At  140.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  local  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  deep-cut  (40  feet)  Canada  Falls,  2  m.;  about  i  mile  north  of 

the  falls,  along  a  trail,  is  Grand  Pitch,  another  waterfall, 


TOUR  10:   From  Brunswick  to  Quebec  325 

At  149.5  m.  is  the  entrance  to  a  trail. 

Right  on  this  trail  6  m.  to  the  Green  Mountain  Fire  Station  from  which  is  a  fine 
view  over  the  great  level  plateau,  a  vast  expanse  of  forest  land  and  dead  water. 

At  152  m.  is  a  Log  Storehouse  and  Stable  of  the  Great  Northern  Paper 
Company. 

At  153.1  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  local  road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  Penobscot  Lake,  5  m.,  a  forest-rimmed  sheet  of  black  water, 
across  whose  surface  echo  the  calls  of  waterfowl  and  woods  birds. 

DOLE  (Township  3,  Range  5),  153.6  m.,  with  a  residence  and  supply  base 
of  the  Great  Northern  Paper  Company,  is  almost  buried  in  the  dreary 
stretches  of  swamp  land  covering  a  considerable  part  of  the  township. 
Around  Dole  Pond,  Long  Pond,  and  Penobscot  Lake,  the  forest  struggles 
against  the  dead  water  overflow. 

Boundary  Cottage,  168.9  m.  (R),  5  miles  southeast  of  St.  Zacharie,  Que., 
is  a  customs  office,  near  the  entrance  to  a  private  road  (open  7-8)  of  the 
Great  Northern  Paper  Company,  and  is  a  headquarters  for  wood  crews 
during  the  winter. 

The  mills  and  headquarters  of  the  Great  Northern  Paper  Company  are 
at  Millinocket  and  East  Millinocket;  the  company  conducts  lumbering 
operations  in  all  parts  of  the  north  country,  and  is  particularly  active  in 
this  section.  When  a  cutting  operation  is  started,  tote  roads  are  laid  out 
through  the  forest  for  the  transportation  of  the  logs  to  the  nearest  point  of 
shipment.  These  roads  are  simply  slashes  through  the  forest  with  the 
stumps  often  left  in  the  ground.  Snow  covers  the  stumps  and  rough  base 
in  winter,  packing  down  to  a  smooth  sledding  surface.  Horses  and  oxen 
provided  the  early  hauling  power,  but  of  late  years  tractors  have  been  used 
in  their  stead. 


TOUR      10:       From  BRUNSWICK  to   CANADIAN    LINE 
(Quebec,  P.Q.),  168.4  m.,  US  201. 


Via  Topsham,  Gardiner,  Hallowell,  Augusta,  Vassalboro,  Winslow,  Waterville, 
Fairfield,  Skowhegan,  Norridgewock,  Madison,  Anson,  Bingham,  Jackman,  and 
Moose  River. 

Two-lane,  hard-surfaced  road-bed;  in  winter  often  impassable  north  of  Madison. 

BEAUTIFUL  river  scenery  characterizes  the  southern  part  of  the  route 
which  follows  the  course  of  the  Kennebec,  past  several  power  plants,  then 
on  through  lumbering  regions  and  fish  and  game  country.  Historic  as  well 
as  scenic,  the  route  also  offers  diversion  at  inland  resorts. 
BRUNSWICK  (alt.  30,  Brunswick  Town,  pop.  7604)  (see  BRUNS- 
WICK), 0  m.,  is  at  a  junction  with  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a). 


326  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

TOPSHAM  (alt.  50,  Topsham  Town,  pop.  2111),  1.1  m.,  settled  in  1730, 
rises  above  the  Androscoggin  River  just  before  it  empties  into  Merry- 
meeting  Bay.  Its  history  and  industrial  development  is  closely  associated 
with  that  of  Brunswick  (see  BRUNSWICK). 

The  Aldrich  House  (about  1800)  (private],  26  Elm  St.,  one  of  the  master- 
pieces of  the  local  builder,  Samuel  Melcher,  has  an  unusually  beautiful 
doorway. 

Right  from  Topsham  on  State  24,  to  a  fork  at  0.7  m.\  right  here  to  Merrymeeting 
Bay,  Qm.,a,  favorite  resort  of  duck  hunters.  Great  numbers  of  wild  fowl  stop  here 
on  their  long  migratory  flights  in  the  spring  and  fall  (see  Sports  and  Recreation: 
Hunting). 

At  21.5  m.  (R)  is  Peacock  Tavern,  a  square  frame  two-story  building,  built 
about  1 790  and  still  offering  accommodations  to  travelers. 

GARDINER  (alt.  90,  pop.  5609),  25.9  m.  By  a  series  of  land  grants  under 
a  system  whereby  the  proprietor  retained  500  out  of  every  900  acres  of 
land,  Dr.  Sylvester  Gardiner  (1708-86),  for  whom  the  city  is  named, 
came  into  possession  of  100,000  acres  of  land  in  the  Kennebec  country  and 
applied  himself  with  great  zeal  to  its  settlement  and  development  as  a 
feudal  manor.  He  meant  to  give  ownership  of  every  foot  of  ground  for 
miles  around  to  his  descendants,  which  would  have  made  it  possible  for 
them  to  regulate  the  community  as  they  chose;  this  dream  was  shattered 
by  the  Revolution. 

Gardiner  developed  through  the  years,  however,  and  by  1850  had  become 
an  industrial  city.  Shoe  factories,  paper  mills,  and  woodworking  estab- 
lishments lie  along  Maine  Ave.  and  Bridge  and  Water  Sts.,  while  the 
residential  district  covers  the  hills  rising  from  the  flat  land  along  the 
Kennebec,  and  Cobbossee  Stream.  The  area  also  developed  culturally, 
contributing  substantially  to  the  world  of  letters  (see  The  Arts).  Shortly 
after  his  birth  at  Head  Tide,  Edwin  Arlington  Robinson  (1869-1935) 
came  with  his  family  to  Gardiner.  A  quiet  boy,  outstanding,  it  seemed, 
only  for  the  brilliance  of  his  great  brown  eyes,  he  lived  and  worked  here, 
except  for  a  short  period  given  to  study  at  Harvard,  until  his  middle 
twenties,  when  he  went  to  New  York  City.  Robinson's  '  Tilbury  Town '  is 
Gardiner  and  in  his  poems  he  has  portrayed  many  of  the  village  scenes  and 
characters.  In  the  fall  of  1936  his  admirers  erected  a  simple  Granite 
Monument  on  the  corner  of  the  Green  to  his  memory. 

Among  other  Gardiner  authors  is  Mrs.  Laura  E.  Richards,  who  at  eighty- 
seven  is  still  actively  at  work,  her  published  works  numbering  more  than 
seventy  novels,  biographies,  and  collections  of  poems  and  short  stories. 
Several  of  her  novels  have  Maine  settings  and  characters;  her  'Captain 
January'  was  made  into  a  motion  picture  in  1936. 

Kate  Vannah  (Letitia  Katherine  Vannah),  prominent  in  literary  and 
musical  circles,  is  among  the  artists  who  have  made  their  homes  in 
Gardiner. 

Oakland's  (private),  at  the  southern  end  of  Dresden  Ave.,  is  the  country 
home  of  former  Governor  William  Tudor  Gardiner,  a  direct  descendant 


TOUR  10:   From  Brunswick  to  Quebec  327 

of  Dr.  Sylvester  Gardiner.  The  somewhat  grim,  ivy-clad,  45-room  granite 
structure  is  suggestive  of  an  English  manor  of  the  Tudor  period.  The 
estate,  one  of  the  finest  in  Maine,  extends  along  the  Kennebec  River. 

In  Gardiner  is  a  junction  with  State  27  (see  Tour  12). 
FARMINGDALE  (alt.  80,  Farmingdale  Town,  pop.  1044),  26.9  m. 

HALLOWELL  (alt.  no,  pop.  2675),  30.1  m.,  legally  a  city  in  spite  of  its 
small  population,  is  in  a  natural  amphitheater  formed  by  hills  facing  a 
bend  in  the  Kennebec  River.  Its  charm  is  not  apparent  from  the  high- 
way. 

Settled  in  1754,  it  was  named  for  Benjamin  Hallowell,  one  of  the  pro- 
prietors of  the  Kennebec  Purchase,  who  with  Dr.  Sylvester  Gardiner 
(see  above)  owned  the  contiguous  tracts  of  land  now  occupied  by  the  cities 
of  Gardiner  and  Hallowell.  The  city  appears  to  have  withdrawn  from  the 
waterfront  at  its  feet  where  ships  and  wharves  once  clustered  along  the 
river,  and  streets  were  alive  with  traffic  and  commerce.  Today  industrial 
life  is  limited  to  the  operation  of  two  shoe  factories  and  a  few  lesser 
establishments. 

The  Vaughan  Mansion  (private),  at  the  southern  end  of  Second  St.,  a 
large,  square  two-story  structure  in  spacious  grounds,  was  the  home  of 
Dr.  Benjamin  Vaughan  (1751-1836)  who  came  to  live  here  in  1797  and 
was  influential  in  Hallowell's  early  commercial  and  cultural  development. 

The  Smoking  Pine,  a  huge  tree  on  the  southern  bank  of  Vaughan's 
Stream,  is  said  to  give  off  a  thin  vapor  under  certain  atmospheric  condi- 
tions. It  was  Indian  tradition  that  Assonimo's  pipe  of  peace  would 
continue  to  smoke  so  long  as  the  Bombahook  continued  to  flow  into  the 
Kennebec. 

Old  Hallowell  Academy,  Middle  St.,  now  a  primary  school,  was  the 
Academy  at  Hallowell  Hook,  the  second  institution  of  its  kind  to  be 
established  in  the  District  of  Maine  (1791). 

Worster  House,  a  yellow-brick  building  on  the  corner  of  Second  and 
Winthrop  S ts. ,  is  a  hostelry  built  in  1 83  2 .  Its  guests  have  included  William 
Lloyd  Garrison,  President  James  Polk,  Horace  Greeley,  Ralph  Waldo 
Emerson,  and  Daniel  Webster. 

The  Hubbard  House  (private),  52  Winthrop  St.,  a  neat  one-and-a-half- 
story  frame  structure  built  in  1830,  was  the  home  of  Dr.  John  Hubbard, 
Governor  of  Maine  1850-53.  An  attractive  doorway  with  mullioned  side- 
lights gives  entrance  to  an  interior  preserved  as  it  was  in  the  doctor's  day. 

Left  from  Hallowell  on  Winthrop  St.  to  the  State  School  for  Girls,  0.7  m.  (R).  In 
1871  nearly  a  thousand  Portland  women  petitioned  the  legislature  to  make 
provision  for  the  reform  of  young  female  delinquents;  a  private  association  was  in- 
corporated to  administer  the  proposed  institution  for  which,  in  1872,  Mrs.  Mary 
H.  Flagg  offered  $100,000  in  money  and  Mrs.  Almira  C.  Dummer  contributed  land. 
The  first  building  was  erected  in  1875,  and  in  1899  the  school  was  placed  wholly 
under  State  control. 

Hallowell  Granite  Quarries,  2.5  m.  (L),  which  now  produce  paving  blocks,  have 
produced  granite  of  exceptional  quality  which  has  been  used  in  many  public  build- 


328  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

ings  throughout  the  country.   Hallowell  granite  is  clear  gray  with  a  minimum  of 
mica;  it  bears  black  tourmaline  pinpoint  markings. 

AUGUSTA  (alt.  120,  pop.  17,198)  (see  AUGUSTA),  32.3  m.,  is  at  the 
junction  of  State  27  (see  Tour  12),  State  9,  and  State  11  (see  Tour  13), 
and  State  17  (see  Tour  17). 

At  40.8  m.  (R)  is  the  Birthplace  of  Holman  F.  Day  (1865-1935),  poet  and 
author.  '  Up  in  Maine,' '  Pine  Tree  Ballads,'  and  '  King  Spruce '  are  among 
his  works. 

VASSALBORO  (alt.  120,  Vassalborough  Town,  pop.  1815),  43.7  m., 
settled  about  1750  by  immigrants  from  Cape  Cod,  was  chiefly  populated 
after  1780  by  Quakers  from  New  York. 

Oak  Grove  Seminary  (R),  easily  recognized  by  its  castle-like  main  build- 
ings, was  established  about  1844  by  members  of  the  Society  of  Friends 
and  is  still  directed  by  Quakers.  On  the  330-acre  campus,  which  over- 
looks Kennebec  River  from  a  hill,  is  the  Natanis  Wild  Life  Sanctuary, 
named  for  the  Indian  portrayed  in  Kenneth  Roberts'  novel  'Arundel.' 
In  1933,  France  awarded  a  medal  to  the  school,  now  a  college  preparatory 
institution  for  girls,  for  the  excellence  of  its  French  department. 

WINSLOW  (alt.  100,  Winslow  Town,  pop.  3917),  50.1  m.,  on  the  eastern 
bank  of  the  Kennebec  at  its  confluence  with  the  Sebasticook  River  is 
closely  connected  industrially  and  historically  with  Waterville  (see 
WATERY  I LLE)  across  the  river. 

The  Lithgow  House,  north  of  the  public  library  on  Lithgow  St.,  was  built 
by  Captain  William  Lithgow,  first  commandant  of  Fort  Halifax  (see 
below),  and  has  been  occupied  constantly  since  1754. 

The  Blockhouse  (L),  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Sebasticook  River  is  all  that 
remains  of  Fort  Halifax,  which  was  erected  in  1754  by  order  of  Governor 
Shirley  of  Massachusetts  as  the  last  in  a  series  of  defenses  built  along  the 
Kennebec  during  the  French  and  Indian  Wars.  No  evidence  has  been 
found  of  its  having  been  attacked  by  Indians,  or  the  French.  Two  years 
before  the  close  of  the  war,  Captain  William  Lithgow  (see  above}  was  in 
command  with  a  force  of  130  men.  Captain  Ezekiel  Pattee  followed 
Lithgow  as  commander,  and  after  the  Peace  of  Paris  in  1762,  the  fort  was 
abandoned. 

This  structure,  like  others  of  its  time,  was  designed  in  the  manner  of  the 
old  English  forts.  A  stockade  formed  a  square  enclosure,  in  the  south- 
western and  northeastern  corners  of  which  stood  blockhouses;  a  row  of 
barracks  extended  along  the  eastern  side  and  there  was  a  sentry  box  at  the 
southeastern  corner.  The  officers'  quarters,  a  storehouse,  and  armory 
were  housed  in  a  two-story  building  with  dormer  windows,  which  ex- 
tended east  from  the  northeast  corner.  Two  small  blockhouses  stood  on 
the  hill  at  the  rear  of  the  fort;  both  were  enclosed  by  stockades,  and  one 
overlooked  Ticonic  Falls  on  the  Kennebec. 

The  remaining  weather-beaten  blockhouse,  built  of  hand-hewn  timbers 
fastened  together  with  wooden  dowels,  is  typical  of  such  structures  used 


TOUR  10:   From  Brunswick  to  Quebec  329 

during  the  Indian  wars.  The  upper  story,  with  musket  and  lookout  holes, 
overhangs  the  lower  one,  thus  enabling  the  defenders  to  fire  through  the 
loopholes  before  the  enemy  could  reach  the  door  to  force  it  in  or  get  close 
enough  to  set  the  blockhouse  on  fire. 

Winslow  is  within  the  boundaries  of  a  former  large  village  of  the  Ticon- 
nets,  and  many  Indian  relics  were  unearthed  on  the  western  bank  of  the 
Sebasticook  before  the  land  was  inundated  in  the  building  of  Fort 
Halifax  Dam. 

In  Fort  Hill  Cemetery,  Halifax  St.,  which  dates  from  1772,  is  the  Grave  of 
Richard  Thomas,  an  early  settler,  who  wrote  the  epitaph  for  his  own 
gravestone : 

'A  Whig  of  seventy-six 

By  occupation  a  cooper 

Now  food  for  worms  like 

An  old  rum  puncheon 

Marked,  numbered,  and  shocked 

He  will  be  raised  again 

And  finished  by  his  creator.' 

Another  epitaph  in  this  plot  reads: 

'  Here  lies  one  Wood, 
Encased  in  wood. 
One  Wood  within  another. 
The  outer  wood  is  very  good, 
We  cannot  praise  the  other.' 

From  a  Red  Paint  Cemetery,  near  the  Fred  A.  Lancaster  mill  on  Clinton 
Ave.,  have  been  taken  ancient  artifacts,  including  a  number  of  finely 
finished  hexagonal  slate  spearheads,  a  spearpoint  of  banded  stone,  and  a 
large  number  of  sheet-copper  beads. 

The  large  buildings  (R),  on  the  bank  of  the  river  are  the  Hollingsworth 

Whitney  Company  Mills  (permit  at  office},  manufacturing  wood  pulp  and 

paper. 

Ticonic  Falls  (R),  which  furnishes  water-power  for  the  mills,  is  visible 

from  the  bridge. 

The  highway  here  crosses  to  the  western  bank  of  the  Kennebec. 

WATERVILLE  (alt.  95,  pop.  15,454)  (see  WATERVILLE),51.5  m.,is 
at  a  junction  with  State  11  (see  Tour  9),  which  is  united  with  US  201  be- 
tween this  point  and  Fairfield. 

FAIRFIELD  (alt.  115,  Fairfield  Town,  pop.  5329),  54.3  m.,  a  manufactur- 
ing center  of  pulp,  pulp-fiber  products,  and  woolens,  stretches  along  the 
west  side  of  the  Kennebec  River.  Here,  in  1774,  a  few  hardy  pioneers 
settled  iii  what  was  then  a  vast  wilderness,  paving  the  way  for  the  busy 
industrial  town  of  neat  homes  which  long  since  have  supplanted  the  first 
rude  cabins. 

One-half  mile  north  of  the  business  section,  on  the  river  bank,  is  a  Granite 
Seat  indicating  the  spot  where  Benedict  Arnold  and  his  men  (see  Tour  11) 
landed  to  repair  their  boats. 


330  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

The  Keyes  House  (private)  (L),  built  in  1905,  is  probably  the  most  fan- 
tastic architectural  structure  to  be  found  along  the  route.  Its  turreted 
central  section  resembles  the  Castel  Sant'  Angelo  at  Rome,  with  turret 
and  walls  on  either  side  crenelated  in  the  manner  of  a  medieval  castle.  It 
was  formerly  the  home  of  Martin  L.  Keyes,  founder  of  the  Keyes  Fibre 
Company. 

State  11  branches  right  here  (see  Tour  9). 

At  55.6  m.  (L)  is  the  entrance  to  the  Central  Maine  Sanatorium,  estab- 
lished in  1915  for  the  treatment  of  persons  with  advanced  tubercular  in- 
fections. 

At  61.3  m.  (L)  is  Good  Will  Farm  (open  weekdays),  founded  in  1889  by  the 
Reverend  George  W.  Hinckley.  This  institution  has  a  three-quarter- 
million-dollar  endowment,  and  receives  no  State  aid.  Its  40  buildings 
spread  over  2600  acres,  providing  a  home  for  deserving  boys  and  girls 
from  9  to  20  years  of  age.  In  addition  to  receiving  the  usual  secondary 
education,  Good  Will  boys  and  girls  help  to  operate  the  institution  and 
are  trained  in  various  manual  occupations. 

Good  Will  Museum  contains  collections  of  minerals,  flora  and  fauna, 
Indian  relics  and  Red  Paint  artifacts,  old  and  curious  farm  implements, 
and  Colonial  furniture. 

At  69.1  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  2,  on  the  southern  outskirts  of  Skow- 
hegan  (see  Tour  4),  and  State  147  (see  Tour  4),  an  alternate  and  shorter 
route  between  this  point  and  Solon  (see  below).  From  this  junction  point 
US  2  and  US  201,  united,  swing  west,  following  the  western  bank  of  the 
Kennebec. 

NORRIDGEWOCK  (alt.  190,  Norridgewock  Town,  pop.  1478)  (see  Tour 
4),  74.4  m.,  is  at  a  junction  with  US  2  (see  Tour  4),  which  here  branches 
west. 

At  75  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  here  to  Danforth  Tavern  (private),  0.1  m.  (L),  a  large  frame  structure  painted 
yellow  with  green  blinds.  Built  in  1807,  it  has  undergone  little  alteration.  Its  hewn 
timbers  are  still  held  together  with  hand-wrought  nails.  There  are  more  than  30 
rooms  and  1 2  fireplaces.  A  long  central  hall  on  the  first  floor  has  an  arched  ceiling. 

Sophie  May  House,  75.1  m.  (L),  a  red-brick  structure  with  white  columns, 
now  a  tourist  home,  was  built  in  1845  by  Cullen  Sawtelle  (U.S.  Rep- 
resentative 1845-47;  1849-51).  It  was  the  home  of  Rebecca  Clarke 
(Sophie  May)  and  Sarah  Clarke  (Penn  Shirley),  well-known  19th-cen- 
tury writers  of  juvenile  stories.  One  of  the  most  attractive  homes  in  the 
vicinity,  it  has  remained  unaltered  except  for  the  redecoration  of  the  walls 
and  the  remodeling  of  the  kitchen.  The  hall  has  a  graceful  staircase  with 
hand-carved  ornamentation.  The  false  floor  in  the  attic,  leaving  a  five- 
foot  air  space,  is  unusual  in  this  State. 

At  80.7  m.  (L)  about  100  yards  from  the  road,  is  the  Father  Rasle  Memorial 
(see  below),  an  1 8-foot  granite  obelisk,  erected  1833. 

At  81.1  m.  is  the  entrance  (L)  to  Old  Point.   Here,  in  a  beautiful  pine 


OLD      HOUSES      AND 
OLD      CHURCHES 


EARLY  Maine  residents,  when  they  could  afford  it,  lavished 
their  wealth  freely  on  their  buildings,  but  they  were  governed 
by  an  artistic  restraint  in  so  doing  which  was  as  much  a  part  of 
their  way  of  living  as  it  was  an  esthetic  ideal.  The  Lady  Pep- 
oerell  Mansion  and  'Montpelier,'  the  reproduction  of  General 
Knox's  Thomaston  manor  house,  are  examples  of  the  very 
best  in  Colonial  design.  'Montpelier,'  inspired  by  Jefferson's 
'Monticello,'  is  perhaps  exceptional  in  its  elegance,  but  both 
houses  reflect  a  style  and  a  society,  that  of  the  time  im- 
mediately preceding  the  Revolutionary  War,  which  is  almost 
as  significant  as  was  ante-bellum  feudal  magnificence  in  the 
South.  Churches,  too,  reflected  the  social  ideal,  and  they 
stand  today,  more  than  do  the  great  houses  perhaps,  as  re- 
minders of  the  period  when  even  utilitarian  structures  were 
made  to  be  lovely  and  when  to  create  beauty  was  an  enduring 
way  of  worship. 

Good  living  and  well-designed  building  were  not  limited  to 
wealthy  individuals  and  communities,  however.  Such  hos- 
telries  as  Burnham  Tavern  are  today  not  at  all  uncommon  in 
the  State,  and  such  fine  simplicity  as  that  of  the  Surry  Church 
may  be  found  in  any  little  town  in  Maine. 


CONGREGATIONAL  CHURCH 
KENNEBUNKPORT 


SECOND  PARISH  UNITARIAN 
CHURCH,  SACO 


if  TT  i 


LADY  PEPPERELL  MANSION  AT  KITTERY  POINT 


CHURCH  AT  PHIPPSBURG 


McINTIRE  GARRISON  HOUSE,  YORK 


SWINGING  SIGN  OF  BURNHAM  TAVERN,  MACHIAS 


BURNHAM  TAVERN,  MACHIAS 


ANDREW  HOMESTEAD,  SOUTH  WINDHAM 


FIRST  PARISH  UNITARIAN  CHURCH,  KENNEBUNK 


WHITE  CHURCH  NEAR  SURRY 


I!  I  111  111 


i  mi 


I 


MONTPELIER,  THOMASTON 


TOUR  10:   From  Brunswick  to  Quebec  331 

grove,  is  a  public  camping  ground  (picnic  tables,  stone  fireplace,  spring 
water}. 

This  broad  level  stretch  of  land  is  the  site  of  the  Abnaki  Indian  village, 
Nanrantsouak,  or  Norridgewock.  It  lies  on  the  Kennebec-Chaudiere 
River  route,  long  used  by  the  Indians  traveling  between  Maine  and  the 
Quebec  region.  As  early  as  1633,  when  the  English  were  struggling  to 
settle  along  the  coast,  Capuchin  missionaries  from  Chaleur  Bay  were 
coming  up  the  Kennebec  River.  After  their  visits  to  this  section,  the 
Norridgewock  Indians  asked  the  Jesuit  mission  in  Canada  for  missionaries. 
By  the  middle  of  the  iyth  century  the  Jesuits  had  made  numerous  friends 
among  their  converts  in  the  Quebec  area,  and  the  help  they  gave  the 
Indians  in  various  ways  had  gained  them  a  wide  reputation  as  desir- 
able friends;  as  a  result  of  reports  of  Abnakis  who  had  come  in  contact 
with  them  at  Quebec,  they  were  invited  to  establish  a  mission  at  Nan- 
rantsouak. Father  Gabriel  Druillettes  undertook  the  task  in  1646,  leaving 
Quebec  with  some  Abnakis,  who  led  him  up  the  Chaudiere  and  down  the 
Kennebec  to  the  village,  where  he  remained  a  few  months  and  built  a 
chapel.  Later  he  went  down  the  Kennebec  to  visit  the  Capuchin  mission 
at  Castine,  stopping  at  the  present  Augusta,  where  he  met  John  Winslow, 
the  Pilgrim  trader;  Winslow,  often  alone  with  the  Indians  and  in  need  of 
friendly  relations  with  them,  had  gradually  developed  a  friendly  interest 
in  them,  and  he  and  Father  Druillettes  had  earnest  discussions  on  the 
possibilities  of  converting  them  all  to  Christianity  and  civilization.  The 
Jesuit  returned  to  Canada  in  1647. 

At  this  time  the  leaders  of  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony,  determined  to 
ignore  the  quarrels  between  Great  Britain  and  France,  which  were  harm- 
ful to  business,  were  making  overtures  to  the  authorities  at  Quebec  for  a 
free-trade  agreement.  The  French-Canadians,  also  bored  by  European 
quarrels,  were  prepared  to  make  the  agreement  and  hoped  to  form  an 
alliance  with  the  Massachusetts  colonists  against  the  militant  Iroquois. 
Because  the  Abnakis  surrounding  the  Pilgrim  post  on  the  Kennebec  were 
the  spiritual  charges  of  Father  Druillettes,  he  was  selected  to  conduct  the 
negotiations;  he  set  out  over  his  former  route  in  September,  1650.  After 
visiting  Nanrantsouak  he  continued  to  Winslow's  post,  where  he  ar- 
ranged to  have  Winslow  accompany  him  to  Plymouth  and  Boston.  His 
negotiations  there  were  not  successful,  in  part,  perhaps  because  the  tight- 
fisted  colonists  did  not  see  any  particular  reason  for  spending  hard- 
earned  money  to  help  protect  the  Canadians  from  a  menace  that  did  not 
at  the  time  worry  them.  He  returned  to  take  up  his  work  among  the 
Abnakis  with  whom  he  lived  until  1657. 

Several  well-known  Jesuits  were  stationed  here  at  one  time  or  another, 
including  Father  Joseph  Aubry  and  Father  Sebastian  Rasle;  the  latter 
was  in  charge  from  1691  until  1724.  Father  Rasle  brought  ornaments  and 
vessels  from  Quebec  for  the  Indian  chapel,  made  candles  for  it  from  bay- 
berries,  and  trained  a  choir  of  40  young  Indians,  whom  he  dressed  in 
garments  of  the  type  used  in  French  Catholic  churches. 

In  1701,  the  English  authorities  ordered  the  French  missionaries  to  leave. 


332  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Colonel  Winthrop  Hilton's  expedition  went  to  Norridgewock  in  1704-05, 
and  burned  all  the  church  property.  Father  Rasle  used  a  temporary  bark 
chapel  during  the  construction  of  a  new  church,  which  was  not  completed 
until  1718.  During  this  period  he  broke  both  legs  and  was  taken  by  canoe 
to  Canada.  On  his  return  he  learned  a  price  had  been  set  on  his  head.  In 
1722,  Captain  John  Harmon  and  200  men  swooped  down  on  the  village 
while  the  warriors  were  hunting.  The  partly  crippled  priest  and  the  old 
men  of  the  camp  hid  while  the  party  pillaged  the  church  and  the  priest's 
dwelling,  carrying  off  the  dictionary  of  the  Abnaki  language  on  which 
Father  Rasle  had  been  working  for  years.  Two  years  later  Father  Rasle 
met  his  death  at  the  hands  of  a  force  under  Captain  Jeremiah  Moulton 
who  pillaged  and  burned  the  village.  Finding  themselves  continually 
attacked,  the  Norridgewocks  left,  part  of  them  going  to  Canada,  many 
joining  the  Penobscots  at  Old  Town. 

Benedict  Arnold  on  his  Quebec  expedition  of  1775  (see  Tour  11)  followed 
in  reverse  the  route  down  which  came  Father  Druillettes  in  1646.  He  and 
his  men  spent  nearly  a  week  at  Old  Point,  preparing  for  the  carry  around 
Norridgewock  Falls,  about  a  mile  north  of  Old  Point.  At  the  time  of  his 
visit  all  that  remained  of  the  settlement  were  ruins  of  an  old  Indian  fort, 
a  chapel,  an  old  grave  surmounted  by  a  cross,  and  a  covered  passageway 
to  the  river. 

According  to  a  legend,  Waban  ('  the  morning ') ,  son  of  a  great  chief  and  the 
first  Norridgewock,  was  born  at  Old  Point.  Waban  taught  his  people 
much,  gave  them  food  in  abundance,  cleared  their  streams  and  paths,  and 
was  kind  to  all  creatures  of  the  forest  and  stream.  Although  fierce  and 
brave,  he  spared  the  birds,  talked  the  language  of  all  wild  things  of  the 
woods,  and  became  the  greatest  chieftain  of  them  all.  So  great  was  his 
power  that  he  did  not  die,  but  walked  through  the  forest  to  the  Great 
Spirit,  and  continued  to  clear  the  paths  of  his  people  for  many  genera- 
tions. 

MADISON  (alt.  290,  Madison  Town,  pop.  3956),  82.7  m.,  named  for 
President  James  Madison,  is  a  manufacturing  town,  its  chief  products 
textiles  and  paper.  The  industrial  development  of  the  town  did  not  begin 
until  1875,  though  Sylvanus  Sawyer,  first  settler,  cleared  land  near  Old 
Point  in  1773. 

ANSON  (alt.  290,  Anson  Town,  pop.  2237),  83.1  m.,  is  a  residential  dis- 
trict for  employees  of  the  woolen  and  paper  mills  at  Madison,  directly 
across  the  Kennebec. 

NORTH  ANSON  (alt.  295,  Anson  Town),  87.7  m.  The  route  crosses  the 
bridge  over  the  Carrabassett  River  here,  with  views  of  the  Falls  (L)  and 
the  rocky  river  bed.  The  rocks,  chiefly  of  slate  schist,  have  been  strangely 
carved  by  the  water's  action. 

SOLON  (alt.  395,  Solon  Town,  pop.  852),  95.4  m.,  is  at  the  junction 
with  State  147,  a  short-cut  (see  above)  between  this  point  and  Skowhegan 
(see  Tour  4). 

Left  from  Solon  on  a  gravel  road  to  the  railroad  station,  0.4  m.,  beyond  which  (200 


TOUR  10:   From  Brunswick  to  Quebec  333 

yards  south)  is  Caratunk  Falls,  best  viewed  from  the  railroad  bridge  spanning  the 
river.  Extending  V-shaped  for  30  or  40  yards  on  either  side  of  a  point  of  land  under 
the  bridge,  the  falls  drop  36  feet,  sending  up  a  cloud  of  spray  and  mist  as  the  waters 
strike  the  jagged  rocks  below. 

On  the  eastern  bank  of  the  river  below  the  falls,  an  old  road  runs  a  few  hundred 
yards  to  Arnold's  Landing.  Here  in  a  quiet  little  cove,  on  a  ledge  near  the  water's 
edge,  is  an  Arnold  Trail  Marker,  surmounted  by  a  flagstaff,  with  a  tablet  com- 
memorating this  as  the  spot  where  Benedict  Arnold  and  his  army  landed  October  7, 
1775,  remaining  overnight  prior  to  the  carry  around  Caratunk  Falls. 

BINGHAM  (alt.  355,  Bingham  Town,  pop.  1590),  103.6  m.,  is  now 
generally  identified  with  Wyman  Dam  (see  below),  which  has  caused  a 
complete  economic  change  in  the  town  since  its  completion  in  1931. 
Although  the  workmen  that  were  here  in  the  construction  days  have  left, 
business  activity  is  still  on  the  upswing  with  the  influx  of  tourists,  who 
come  each  year  to  view  the  dam. 

Bingham  was  first  settled  in  1785.  The  Bingham  Purchase  (see  Tour  1, 
sec.  c)  was  made  up  of  two  tracts  of  land,  each  of  1,000,000  acres,  secured 
by  William  Bingham,  a  wealthy  and  influential  Philadelphia  banker  in 
1786,  when  the  Commonwealth  of  Massachusetts,  holding  title  to  most  of 
the  unsettled  land  in  Maine,  undertook  to  dispose  of  a  large  area  in  the 
eastern  part  of  the  Province  by  lottery.  Mr.  Bingham  drew  several 
townships  and  bought  others.  General  Henry  Knox  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b), 
already  a  large  proprietor  by  reason  of  his  acquisition  of  the  remainder  of 
the  Waldo  Patent,  had  secured  a  contract  for  a  large  piece  of  Maine's 
wild  land,  but  his  duties  as  Secretary  of  War  under  President  Washing- 
ton required  his  full  attention,  and  he  turned  the  contract  over  to  Bing- 
ham, who  had  been  active  in  financial  matters  during  the  Revolutionary 
War.  This  resulted  in  the  purchase  of  the  second  Bingham  tract. 

At  Bingham  is  a  junction  with  State  16  (see  Tour  8). 

At  104.9  m.  (L)  is  the  combination  earth-fill  and  concrete  Wyman  Dam, 
with  a  hydro-electric  plant.  The  dam  raises  the  level  of  the  river  135  feet 
and  has  a  total  storage  of  eight  billion  cubic  feet  of  water.  The  dam,  155 
feet  high  and  2250  feet  long,  has  created  an  artificial  lake  which  provides 
water  storage  for  the  headwaters  of  the  Kennebec,  including  Moosehead 
and  Brassua  Lakes,  Indian  Pond,  and  various  other  small  bodies  of  water. 
The  dam  was  completed  after  a  two-year  construction  period  by  the 
Central  Maine  Power  Company,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  the  com- 
pany's president,  Walter  Scott  Wyman. 

At  113.7  m.  a  boulder  with  a  tablet  is  the  northernmost  Arnold  Trail 
Marker  in  the  Kennebec  section,  and  indicates  the  spot  near  which 
Benedict  Arnold  (see  Tour  11)  left  the  Kennebec  River  in  October,  1775. 
The  boulder,  originally  standing  on  the  river  bank,  was  moved  to  this 
point  when  the  waters  of  artificial  Wyman  Lake  flooded  the  lower  slopes. 
CARATUNK  (Ind. :'  rough  and  broken ')  (alt.  560,  Caratunk  Plantation, 
pop.  169),  118.6  m.,  lies  near  the  Kennebec  River  not  far  from  Moxie 
Mountain  (alt.  2925).  Near  Caratunk  the  road  runs  close  to  the  Kennebec 
River,  with  steep  slopes  covered  with  large  boulders  rising  (R)  above. 
(Beware  of  falling  rocks.) 


334  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

THE  FORKS  (alt.  576,  The  Forks  Plantation,  pop.  136),  126.3  m.,  is  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Dead  and  Kennebec  Rivers.  A  quantity  of  red 
ocher  (see  Earliest  Inhabitants)  was  found  in  this  vicinity  in  1935  when 
stone  was  blasted  away  for  road  construction.  In  the  rocks  were  found 
two  small  openings  leading  into  caves,  which  contained  small  quantities  of 
the  pigment;  when  the  caves  were  further  opened  up,  a  pit  holding  great 
quantities  of  the  material  was  found. 

The  Upper  Kennebec  Waters  Canoe  Trip  (see  Sports  and  Recreation: 
Canoeing)  touches  at  The  Forks. 

Right  from  The  Forks  on  a  dirt  road  to  Lake  Moxie  and  Mosquito  Mountain  (alt. 
2230),  5  m. 

At  129.1  m.  (L)  is  an  old  tote  (lumber)  road,  unfit  for  motor  travel,  leading 
to  Spencer  Stream,  Spencer  Lake,  and  the  Dead  River  region,  a  popular 
hunting  and  fishing  area  15  miles  distant  (see  Sports  and  Recreation). 

At  137.3  m.  an  entrance  marker  indicates  a  foot  trail. 

Left  on  this  trail  to  a  fire  warden's  house,  2.5  m.,  from  which  a  steep  trail  leads  to 
the  Fire  Lookout  Station  (open),  on  Coburn  Mountain  (alt.  3718).  From  the  tower 
can  be  seen  lakes  and  mountains  to  the  north  and  west. 

The  Parlin  Pond  Camps,  141  m.  (R),  are  the  largest  in  this  area  on  the 
main  route  where  accommodations  are  widely  scattered. 

At  151.2  m.  US  201  passes  over  Owl's  Head  Mountain  (alt.  2380). 

JACKMAN  (alt.  1170,  Jackman  Plantation,  pop.  1094),  152.3  m.,  on  the 
shore  of  Wood  Pond,  reaches  its  peak  of  activity  as  a  resort  center  in  the 
fall  during  the  hunting  season;  in  the  winter  it  is  a  busy  supply  center  for 
the  lumber  industry. 

The  U.S.  Immigration  Station  (must  be  visited  by  every  person  entering  from 
Canada),  is  just  north  of  the  tracks  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  R.R. 

Jackman  is  one  of  the  terminals  of  the  Attean  Lake  Canoe  Trip  (see 
Sports  and  Recreation.  Canoeing)-. 

MOOSE  RIVER  (alt.  1170,  Moose  River  Plantation,  pop.  277),  154.6  m. 
First  settled  in  1820  by  Captain  Samuel  Holden,  Moose  River  today  has 
but  one  inn,  Holden  House,  built  in  1842  and  now  owned  by  one  of  the 
Captain's  descendants.  In  the  past  many  cattle  were  driven  through  here 
on  their  way  from  Boston  to  Quebec,  and  the  drivers  looked  forward  to  a 
stop  at  this  inn;  it  is  now  popular  with  lumberjacks. 

At  some  distance  from  the  highway,  on  either  side,  lumbering  operations 
are  in  progress,  though  not  as  extensively  as  some  years  ago.  Once  operating 
in  this  region  were  the  rugged,  lusty  lumberjacks  who  were  supposed  to 
'  sleep  in  trees  and  even  eat  hay  if  sprinkled  with  whiskey.'  These  were  the 
woodsmen  who  never  took  off  their  red  flannels  from  the  time  they  hit  camp 
in  the  fall  until  they  came  out  in  the  spring;  who  never  shaved;  who 
chewed  great  hunks  of  tobacco,  could  spit  15  feet  into  a  head  wind  and  hit 
the  mark,  and  roll  off  a  lusty  hair-raising  stream  of  profanity. 

Horse-play,  stunts,  story- telling,  and  singing  of  such  chanteys  as  'Little 
Brown  Bull'  constituted  the  social  life  of  the  old  boys  who  sometimes 


TOUR  10:   From  Brunswick  to  Quebec  335 

worked  in  the  snow  to  their  armpits,  and  who  could  stand  upright  on  a 
rolling  log  in  midstream  as  few  can  today. 

Each  spring  the  lumberjacks  left  camp  and  swaggered  into  the  quiet 
villages  to  show  the  outside  world  what  he-men  were.  They  yelled  for 
strong  liquor  and  swore  they'd  leave  no  maid  along  the  Kennebec.  There 
were  fights  a-plenty,  gory  and  bloody;  when  a  man  wore  the  imprints  of 
a  lumberjack's  calked  shoes,  he  was  marked  for  life  as  a  fighter. 

Real  ' bean-hole  beans'  were  important  in  the  'feed'  of  lumber  camps. 
Pots  full  of  pork  and  beans  were  kept  all  night  over  rocks  placed  in  the 
ground  and  brought  to  white  heat.  These  were  eaten  with  biscuits  made 
by  the  camp  cook  or  cookee  who  rose  or  fell  on  the  quality  of  his  output. 
Lumbering  today  is  no  longer  a  pioneer  adventure;  it  is  an  organized 
industry.  Tractors,  hauling  logs  over  well-built  roads,  have  replaced  the 
oxen.  Modern  machinery  has  decreased  employment.  The  keen  spirit  of 
competition  has  gone  from  the  river  drivers  who  once  prided  themselves 
on  their  strength,  speed,  and  agility.  Theirs  was  the  job  of  following  the 
drive  of  logs  down  the  rivers  to  untangle  the  jams.  Crawling  across  the 
logs  in  their  calked  boots  until  the  key  log  was  found  and  loosened,  and 
then  making  their  way  back  to  shore  as  the  logs  started  again,  was  no  feat 
for  the  timid. 

The  lumberjack  now  lives  more  comfortably  and  the  vigorous  lumber- 
camp  days  are  over.  Even  tobacco  chewing  is  rare,  for  cigarettes,  which 
formerly  marked  the  user  as  worse  than  dandified,  are  preferred.  White 
crockery,  instead  of  tin  plates  and  iron  forks,  is  on  the  table,  and  the  radio 
has  replaced  the  fights  and  howling  choruses  that  were  the  entertainment 
of  the  past.  The  camps,  formerly  as  barren  of  femininity  as  a  man-of-war, 
now  furnish  quite  comfortable  homes  for  women  and  children. 

At  157.1  m.  is  a  free  camp  site. 

At  158.3  m.  is  the  U.S.  Customs  Office  (all  automobiles  entering  from 
Canada  must  stop  for  inspection}.  From  here  is  obtained  the  northern- 
most view  of  the  chain  of  lakes  that  stretches  through  Jackman  to 
Moosehead  Lake. 

At  168.4  m.  US  201  crosses  the  International  Boundary,  93  miles  south- 
east of  Quebec,  Canada.  The  two  Line  Houses,  serving  food  and  liquid 
refreshments,  were  among  the  popular  borderline  resorts  in  motoring 
weather  during  Prohibition  days,  liquor  being  served  in  the  Canadian 
half  of  the  buildings. 


TOUR      11:     From   NEW  HAMPSHIRE  LINE    (Dover)   to 
CANADIAN  BOUNDARY  (Quebec),  218  m.,  State  4. 


Via  S.  Berwick,  N.  Berwick,  Sanford,  Alfred,  Gorham,  S.  Windham,  Gray, 
Auburn,  Turner,  Farmington,  Rangeley,  Eustis,  and  Arnold  Pond. 

Two-lane  macadamized  road-bed  between  the  New  Hampshire  Line  and 
Rangeley;  graveled  and  narrow  dirt  road-bed  between  Rangeley  and  the 
Canadian  Boundary,  not  recommended  in  wet  weather. 

Accommodations  scarce  north  of  Rangeley. 

STATE  4,  roughly  spanning  the  southwestern  part  of  the  State  in  a 
roundabout  course,  offers  a  wide  range  of  scenery.  The  southern  section 
traverses  attractive  villages  having  many  old  houses  set  on  broad  lawns; 
the  northern  section  runs  through  the  forested  hills  of  the  Rangeley 
Lake  country,  providing  the  chief  highway  approach  to  that  popular 
hunting,  fishing,  and  canoeing  area.  For  a  few  miles  the  highway  follows 
the  route  used  by  Benedict  Arnold  and  his  men  on  their  unfortunate 
march  to  Quebec  in  1775.  North  of  Eustis  the  narrow  road  breaks 
through  the  wilderness  relieved  infrequently  by  camp  sites. 

State  4  crosses  the  New  Hampshire  Line,  0  m.,  3.7  miles  east  of  Dover, 
N.H. 

SOUTH  BERWICK  (alt.  no,  South  Berwick  Town,  pop.  2650),  0.6  m., 
is  an  attractive  old  village  near  the  home  of  Gladys  Hasty  Carroll,  con- 
temporary novelist,  who  uses  New  England  as  the  locale  of  her  stories. 
A  dramatization  of  her  novel, '  As  the  Earth  Turns'  (1933),  is  presented 
in  summer  by  the  townspeople. 

The  Sarah  Orne  Jewett  House  (open  in  summer,  adm.  25fi,  NE.  cor.  Main 
and  Portland  Sts.,  built  about  1780  by  John  Haggins,  is  now  owned  by 
the  Society  for  the  Preservation  of  New  England  Antiquities,  to  whom  it 
was  bequeathed  by  Miss  Jewett's  nephew,  Dr.  Theodore  Eastman. 
Several  years  after  the  house  was  erected,  it  was  purchased  by  Captain 
Theodore  Jewett,  Miss  Jewett's  grandfather.  This  two-and-a-half-story 
clapboarded  house  with  dormer  windows  is  notable  for  its  well-propor- 
tioned Doric  portico  and  fine  raised-panel  door.  The  portico,  with  fluted 
columns  that  are  reeded  in  the  lower  third  and  have  simple  stone  block 
bases,  is  topped  with  a  classic  entablature  and  pediment.  The  door  has 
dark  louvered  shutters  and  is  framed  with  a  delicately  moulded  and  fluted 
architrave.  It  is  probable  that  the  portico  was  added  in  the  early  part  of 
the  i  gth  century. 

From  the  center  hall,  considered  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  New 
England,  rises  a  staircase  of  particularly  fine  design  and  detail;  the  raked 
dado  on  the  stair  wall  is  noteworthy.  A  large  window  of  fine  flowered 
glass  illuminates  the  landing. 


TOUR  11:   From  Dover  to  Quebec  337 

Books  and  folios  fill  the  finely  furnished  library;  old  engravings,  minia- 
tures, carved  ivory,  and  old  silver  ornament  the  parlor;  old  glass  and  rich 
dark  mahogany  fill  the  dining-room;  and  fine  old  willowware  lines  the 
cupboards  of  the  kitchen,  which  has  an  open  fireplace  and  rows  of  old 
kettles  and  pots.  Four  bedrooms,  containing  old  mahogany  four-posters 
with  testers  and  valances,  open  off  the  upper  hall.  In  the  guest  room,  a 
narrow  door  opens  into  a  hidden  staircase  that  winds  from  cellar  to  attic. 
In  Sarah  Orne  Jewett's  room  is  the  low  desk  on  which  a  number  of  her 
books  were  written. 

Sarah  Orne  Jewett  was  born  in  this  house  on  September  3,  1849.  Her 
greatest  pleasure  as  a  child  came  from  accompanying  her  father,  a 
country  physician,  on  his  rounds  which  took  him  into  many  remote  farm 
homes.  As  the  child  sat  in  rural  kitchens,  while  her  father  helped  to  bring 
babies  into  the  world  and  tried  to  keep  men,  women,  and  children  from 
leaving  it,  she  saw  much  homely  drama  and  tragedy,  and  heard  many 
stories  of  the  past;  and  as  she  and  her  father  jogged  along  the  back  roads 
he  talked  with  her  constantly,  telling  her  what  he  had  learned  in  schools 
and  elsewhere.  Miss  Jewett  early  began  to  write  stories,  her  first  being 
published  in  the  Atlantic  Monthly  when  she  was  only  20  years  old.  Eight 
years  later,  her  first  novel,  'Deephaven,'  really  a  collection  of  episodes 
centering  about  one  person,  was  published.  'A  Country  Doctor,'  in  which 
she  portrayed  her  father's  experiences,  appeared  in  1884,  and  her  best- 
known  volume,  'The  Country  of  the  Pointed  Firs,'  in  1896.  In  1901, 
'The  Tory  Lover,'  a  story  of  Berwick  during  the  Revolution,  brought  her 
increased  popularity  and  the  degree  of  Doctor  of  Letters  from  Bowdoin 
College,  her  father's  alma  mater,  the  first  honor  conferred  by  that  institu- 
tion upon  a  woman.  Miss  Jewett's  popularity  was  based  on  warmly 
sympathetic  and  often  humorous  portrayals  of  common  people,  which 
first  appeared  at  a  time  when  most  writers  of  fiction  were  busy  with 
scenes  and  people  alien  to  the  average  citizen.  Sarah  Orne  Jewett  died 
at  South  Berwick,  June  24,  1909. 

On  Portland  St.,  just  north  of  the  Jewett  House,  is  the  Eastman  Commu- 
nity House  (open),  which  at  times  was  occupied  by  Miss  Jewett;  it  also 
was  bequeathed  by  her  nephew  to  the  Society  for  the  Preservation  of 
New  England  Antiquities. 

Right  from  South  Berwick  on  Academy  St.  to  Berwick  Academy,  0.4  m.  (L),  one  of 
the  oldest  preparatory  schools  in  Maine.  Its  charter,  granted  by  the  General  Court 
of  Massachusetts,  bears  the  signature,  among  others,  of  John  Hancock.  Samuel 
Moody,  the  first  master  of  the  academy,  was  paid  an  annual  salary  of  £60,  with  the 
addition  of  sixpence  a  week  for  each  pupil.  The  school,  co-educational  since  1828, 
now  has  about  150  pupils. 

At  2.1  m.  (R)  is  the  unoccupied  Simpson  House,  a  large,  plain  two-story  structure, 
believed  to  be  one  of  the  oldest  houses  in  Maine. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  road  is  the  Goodwin  House  (private),  a  large  two-and-a- 
half-story  structure  that  was  the  home  of  General  Ichabod  Goodwin,  commander 
of  the  Berwick  company  during  the  Revolutionary  War.  At  one  time  a  band  of 
thieves  lived  in  the  near-by  Negutaquit  Woods.  A  favorite  local  folktale  tells  how 
the  General  left  for  church  one  Sunday  morning  with  an  admonition  to  his  small 
daughter,  who  was  remaining  at  home  with  a  servant,  to  be  courteous  to  any  guests 


High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 


who  might  arrive  during  his  absence.  Shortly  after  his  departure,  the  thieves  ap- 
proached, and  the  child,  unaware  of  their  identity  and  mindful  of  her  father's  orders, 
importantly  assumed  her  role  as  hostess  and  asked  the  maid  to  prepare  food  for 
them.  The  visitors  accepted  the  hospitality  without  comment,  eating  their  fill; 
then  they  began  to  collect  the  family  silver  and  other  valuables,  packing  them  in 
bundles.  The  child  was  puzzled  and  frightened,  torn  between  a  suspicion  that  some- 
thing was  wrong  and  a  fear  of  violating  the  laws  of  hospitality;  after  she  had  seen 
one  treasured  object  after  another  snatched  up,  she  came  forward  timidly,  offering 
her  own  silver  cup  as  a  substitute  for  her  mother's  possessions.  The  leader  stared  at 
her,  abruptly  told  his  men  to  leave  the  bundles,  and  led  them  away.  The  story  is 
that  sometime  afterward,  when  the  thieves  had  at  last  been  jailed,  the  General,  in 
talking  with  them,  asked  the  leader  why  he  had  failed  to  take  anything  of  value 
from  the  Goodwin  home;  the  answer,  according  to  the  old  wives,  was  that  he  could 
not  do  it  after  the  little  one  had  treated  him  '  for  the  first  time  in  his  life  like  a 
gentleman.' 

The  Jonathan  Hamilton  House  (private),  also  on  the  left,  and  reached  by  a  half- 
mile  curving  driveway,  is  a  frame  structure  with  hip  roof,  dormer  windows,  and 
four  large  chimneys.  This  house,  in  which  Admiral  John  Paul  Jones  was  a  frequent 
guest,  was  built  in  1788,  by  Colonel  Jonathan  Hamilton,  and  is  mentioned  in 
Sarah  Orne  Jewett's  'Tory  Lover.' 

At  2.3  m.  (R),  is  an  Old  Cemetery,  actually  a  group  of  family  burial  places  where  the 
oldest  legible  inscription  is  dated  1728. 

NORTH  BERWICK  (alt.  230,  North  Berwick  Town,  pop.  1540),  7.3  m., 
is  a  village  with  tree-shaded  streets  and  with  landscaped  lawns  surround- 
ing substantial  old  homes,  some  looking  as  they  did  when  built  and  others 
remodeled.  The  town  lands,  settled  shortly  after  1630  as  part  of  Kittery, 
and  later  included  in  the  town  of  Berwick,  were  in  1831  set  off  as  a 
separate  unit  and  incorporated.  Furs  were  dressed  here  in  early  days  and 
the  manufacture  of  plows  was  begun  more  than  100  years  ago.  Plows  are 
still  manufactured  here,  as  are  woolens,  toboggans,  and  sleds. 

Berwick  sponge  cake,  familiar  to  many  old-time  travelers,  originated 
here.  When  the  railroad  was  built  in  1842,  William  C.  Briggs,  a  cripple, 
set  up  what  he  called  a  'restorator,'  a  forerunner  of  today's  station  lunch 
counter.  His  wife,  a  cook  of  local  fame,  made  a  cake  of  such  excellence 
that  it  became  known  over  a  wide  area  by  the  name  of  the  town.  All 
trains  had  a  lo-minute  stop  at  North  Berwick  and  passengers  would  rush 
from  the  cars  to  the  '  restorator  '  to  buy  large  portions  of  the  cake.  Charles 
Dickens,  the  author,  once  stopped  off  to  obtain  some  of  the  cake  for  a 
little  friend  accompanying  him;  she  was  Katie  Smith,  later  Kate  Douglas 
Wiggin. 

At  12.1  m.  (R)  is  Bauneg  Beg  Country  Club  (open  May-Nov.;  greens  fee 
$1.50,  with  member  $1;  Sat.,  Sun.,  holidays,  $2)  with  a  g-hole  course.  The 
course  lies  on  the  eastern  side  of  Bauneg  Beg  Pond,  a  beautiful  small  body 
of  water  on  the  shores  of  which  are  stands  of  second-growth  pine. 

SANFORD  (alt.  310,  Sanford  Town,  pop.  13,392),  17.2  m.,  an  industrial 
center,  lies  in  the  Mousam  River  Valley  near  the  foothills  of  the  White 
Mountains.  The  town,  first  known  as  Phillipstown  in  honor  of  Major 
William  Phillips  of  Boston,  original  proprietor  of  land  in  this  vicinity,  was 
incorporated  in  1768  and  named  for  Major  Phillips'  stepson,  Peleg  San- 
ford,  Governor  of  Rhode  Island  (1680-83). 


TOUR  11:   From  Dover  to  Quebec  339 

Although  the  first  mill  was  built  in  1739,  it  was  in  1867  that  the  town's  real 
industrial  development  began  with  the  establishment  of  a  factory  for  the 
manufacture  of  carriage  robes  and  kersey  blankets. 
The  Goodall  Worsted  Company  Factory  (open),  High  St.,  manufactures 
Palm  Beach  cloth. 

The  Sanford  Mills  (open),  High  St.,  manufacturing  mohair-plush  fabrics, 
supply  a  large  part  of  the  automobile  upholstery  used  in  the  United 
States. 

Many  of  the  residents  of  Sanford  are  descendants  of  early  English  im- 
migrants, and  some  are  French-Canadians  who  came  in  the  last  few 
decades  to  work  in  the  mills  and  the  two  shoe  factories. 

Left  from  Sanford  on  State  109  is  SPRING  VALE  (alt.  320,  Sanford  Town),  2  m.,  a 
village  occupied  chiefly  by  people  employed  in  the  Sanford  mills. 
Nasson  College  for  Women,  near  the  corner  of  Main  and  Oak  Sts.,  was  established 
as  a  vocational  school  for  girls  in  1912.  It  received  its  charter  as  a  college  in  1935, 
and  confers  the  degree  of  Bachelor  of  Science  in  secretarial  work  and  domestic 
science. 

Northwest  of  Springvale  on  the  northern  bank  of  Mousam  River  is  Indian's  Last 
Leap,  two  great  boulders  jutting  out  into  the  river  from  opposite  banks.  According 
to  legend,  an  early  settler,  fleeing  from  a  band  of  Indians  led  by  Chief  Nahanda, 
jumped  from  one  boulder  to  the  other  —  a  distance  of  about  20  feet  —  clearing  the 
stream  in  one  leap.  Chief  Nahanda  fell  short  in  his  leap,  and,  striking  his  head 
against  the  cliff,  fell  into  the  river  and  was  drowned. 

ALFRED  (alt.  340,  Alfred  Town,  pop.  883),  21.8  m.,  is  a  typical  New 
England  village  with  quiet  streets  and  dignified  houses.  The  territory 
that  includes  Alfred  was  acquired  in  1664  by  Major  William  Phillips  (see 
above),  who  bought  a  large  tract  of  land  from  the  Indian  sagamore,  Cap- 
tain Sunday.  This  purchase  was  not  recorded,  but  another  deed  signed  in 
1668  by  Captain  Sunday  and  preserved  among  the  court  records,  con- 
veyed 20  square  miles  of  land,  between  Great  and  Little  Ossipee  and  the 
Saco  Rivers,  to  Francis  Small  of  Kittery  in  exchange  for  two  large 
blankets,  two  gallons  of  rum,  two  pounds  of  powder,  four  pounds  of 
musket  balls,  20  strings  of  beads,  and  several  other  articles.  Captain 
Sunday's  signature  was  the  picture  of  a  turtle.  The  first  white  settlement 
was  made  in  1764,  nearly  100  years  later.  Alfred  was  the  North  Parish  of 
Sanford  until  1794,  when  it  was  incorporated,  and  its  Indian  name, 
Massabesic,  changed  to  the  one  it  now  bears,  given  in  honor  of  Alfred  the 
Great.  With  the  town  of  York,  the  original  county  seat,  Alfred  became  a 
half -shire  town  in  1802.  In  1832  records  were  removed  from  York  and 
Alfred  remained  the  shire  town.  It  developed  as  a  farming  and  lumbering 
community,  and  has  changed  little  in  the  past  half  century. 

The  Whipping  Tree,  a  large  oak  (R),  on  State  4  north  of  the  junction 
with  State  111,  was  used  between  1800  and  1830  for  the  public  flogging  of 
certain  types  of  offenders. 

The  Courthouse  (R),  cor.  of  Kennebunk  and  Main  Sts.,  holds  complete 
court  records  from  1636  to  the  present. 

The  Holmes  House  (open),  opposite  the  village  green  (L),  was  built  in  1802 
for  John  Holmes,  one  of  the  first  two  United  States  Senators  from  Maine 


34-O  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

and  chairman  of  the  committee  that  drafted  the  State  of  Maine  constitu- 
tion. The  most  interesting  feature  of  the  exterior  is  an  iron  balustrade 
with  a  design  of  bows  and  arrows  that  rises  from  the  eaves  of  the  house. 
Among  the  traditions  regarding  this  decoration  is  one  that  Senator  Holmes 
had  the  pattern  used  to  indicate  his  friendliness  toward  the  Indians; 
another  that  it  was  his  reply  to  those  who  believed  he  had  Indian  blood  in 
his  veins;  and  still  another  that  it  had  romantic  significance,  the  house 
having  been  built  for  Holmes  and  his  bride. 

At  23.5  m.j  high  on  a  hill  overlooking  Shaker  Pond,  formerly  called 
Massabesic  Lake,  is  the  Institute  de  Notre  Dame,  a  Catholic  school  for 
boys,  housed  in  the  buildings  of  a  former  Shaker  settlement.  For  many 
years  men  of  the  former  colony  tilled  the  i5oo-acre  farm  and  cared  for  its 
herd  of  dairy  cows,  and  the  highly  respected,  primly  bonneted  ladies  built 
up  a  profitable  business  selling  baskets,  knitted  goods,  and  other  wares. 
In  1931,  the  remaining  members  of  the  colony  sold  their  holdings  and 
joined  the  Shaker  colony  at  New  Gloucester  (see  Tour  14) .  The  old  build- 
ings have  been  restored  and  new  ones  added  since  the  estate  came  under 
the  present  ownership. 

EAST  WATERBORO  (alt.  290,  Waterboro  Town,  pop.  914),  29.7  m.,  is 
at  the  junction  with  State  5  (see  Tour  15). 

HOLLIS  CENTER  (alt.  250,  Hollis  Town,  pop.  1034),  34.7  m.,  was  the 
home  of  Freeman  Hanson  who  invented  the  locomotive  turntable,  and 
Silas  G.  Smith  who  invented  the  locomotive  snow  plow. 

BAR  MILLS  (alt.  150,  Buxton  Town,  pop.  1574),  37.1  m. 

Right  from  Bar  Mills  on  an  unmarked  road  following  the  east  bank  of  the  Saco 
River  across  the  Salmon  Falls  Bridge  to  SALMON  FALLS  (alt.  120),  1.3  m.  The 
village  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  about  equally  divided  between  the  towns  of 
Hollis  and  Buxton. 

Right  from  the  bridge  on  the  Hollis  side  is  Quillcote,  third  house  (L),  for  many 
years  the  summer  home  of  Kate  Douglas  Wiggin  (1859-1923),  who  wrote  'Rebecca 
of  Sunnybrook  Farm,'  'The  Birds'  Christmas  Carol,'  and  other  books  popular 
among  little  girls  at  the  beginning  of  the  2oth  century.  The  property  was  auctioned 
in  1937.  Kate  Smith,  born  in  Philadelphia,  was  brought  to  Hollis  as  a  child;  later 
her  family  moved  to  California,  where  she  became  a  pioneer  in  kindergarten  work. 
In  1881  she  married  Samuel  B.  Wiggin  and,  after  his  death,  George  C.  Riggs,  but 
having  acquired  a  literary  reputation  as  Mrs.  Wiggin  she  continued  to  use  that 
name.  The  Quillcote  house,  a  large  two-and-a-half-story  clapboarded  structure 
built  about  1805,  stands  well  back  on  a  lawn  shaded  by  maples,  elms,  and  apple 
trees,  its  gable  end  to  the  street.  The  wide  pine  boards  were  cut  on  the  banks  of  the 
Saco.  One  of  the  five  bedrooms  was  known  as  the  'painted  room'  because  the  walls 
were  decorated  by  an  itinerant  young  French  artist  who  early  in  the  i9th  century 
did  such  work  in  a  number  of  Salmon  Falls  homes.  Two  of  the  murals,  depicting 
tropical  scenes,  were  restored  a  few  years  ago.  This  room  was  occupied  by  Mrs. 
Wiggin's  sister,  Miss  Nora  Smith,  until  her  death  in  1934. 

The  old  Quillcote  barn  was  transformed  into  an  assembly  hall,  the  interior  deco- 
rated with  autographed  pictures  of  well-known  writers  and  actors  who  were  friends 
of  Mrs.  Wiggin  and  with  drawings  illustrating  her  books.  The  gilded  weathervane 
represented  a  quill  pen.  The  estate,  owned  by  Mrs.  Wiggin's  niece,  was  main- 
tained by  the  local  Dorcas  Society  which  she  founded.  Many  well-known  persons 
have  lectured  and  presented  entertainments  in  the  hall  for  the  benefit  of  local 
charities  and  other  enterprises, 


TOUR  11:   From  Dover  to  Quebec  341 

South  of  the  bridge  is  Indian  Cellar,  a  large  recess  in  the  steep,  rocky  bank  of  the 
Saco,  from  which  Indians  are  said  to  have  attacked  enemies  passing  along  the  river 
in  canoes. 

At  37.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  112  at  Emery  Corner. 

Right  from  Emery  Corner  on  State  112  is  Tory  Hill  Meeting-House  (1822),  0.5  m. 
(R).  This  fine  old  white  church  of  simple  Georgian-Colonial  architecture  was 
erected  on  the  site  of  the  first  frame  church  (1761).  It  has  a  rather  high  steeple  and 
square  belfry.  Because  the  first  pastor,  the  Reverend  Paul  Coffin,  who  came  to 
Buxton  early  in  the  i8th  century,  was  a  Royalist  as  were  many  of  his  parishioners, 
the  section  became  known  as  Tory  Hill. 

This  church  and  the  neighborhood  provided  the  locale  of  Mrs.  Wiggin's  'The  Old 
Peabody  Pew,'  a  dramatization  of  which  is  presented  here  annually  in  August. 
In  the  churchyard,  with  its  far-reaching  view  of  the  Saco  Valley  and  distant  White 
Mountains,  is  an  imposing  Celtic  Cross  marking  the  lot  in  which  were  buried  Mrs. 
Wiggin,  her  second  husband,  her  sister,  and  her  mother.  The  cross  bears  the  words : 
'The  song  is  never  ended.' 

At  43.6  m.  (L)  is  Narragansett  Park  where  the  Gorham  Fair  is  held 
annually  in  August. 

GORHAM  (alt.  220,  Gorham  Town,  pop.  3035),  44.6  m.,  first  called 
Narragansett  No.  7,  was  granted  in  1728  to  men,  or  heirs  of  men,  who  had 
borne  arms  in  the  Narragansett  War  in  1675.  The  first  clearings  were 
made  here  by  Captain  John  Phinney,  who,  with  his  son,  paddled  up  the 
Presumpscot  River  and  settled  on  Fort  Hill  (see  below} . 

The  Baxter  Museum  (open  Wed.,  Sat.  afternoons  in  summer;  free),  on 
South  St.,  contains  relics  of  the  Colonial,  Revolutionary,  Mexican,  Civil, 
Spanish,  and  World  Wars;  it  also  has  some  Indian  artifacts  and  a  col- 
lection of  rare  coins.  The  museum,  built  in  1808,  was  the  home  of  Percival 
P.  Baxter,  Governor  of  Maine  1921-24;  it  was  presented  to  the  town  by 
his  father,  the  Hon.  James  Phinney  Baxter. 

Western  State  Normal  School  (1805),  in  the  square  on  a  hillside  (L),  has  a 
i2-acre  campus  shaded  by  many  kinds  of  trees.  William  Corthell  was 
principal  of  the  school  when  it  was  known  as  Gorham  Academy,  and  Kate 
Douglas  Wiggin  was  at  one  time  a  student.  Russell  Hall  (1934),  a  brick 
auditorium  and  gymnasium,  designed  in  a  modified  Tudor  style,  re- 
sembles an  old  fortress. 

The  Old  Brick  House  (private),  120  Fort  Hill  Rd.,  was  built  in  1773  by 
Hugh  McLellan  and  his  sons.  The  bricks  were  made  near-by;  the  frame- 
work is  held  together  with  wooden  pegs  and  hand-wrought  nails.  Many 
of  the  original  furnishings  have  been  retained  and  preserved,  including 
some  Hitchcock  chairs.  Elijah  Kellogg  mentioned  this  home  in  'Good 
Old  Times.' 

On  Fort  Hill  (L)  is  the  Site  of  Fort  Gorhamtown,  erected  in  the  first  half  of 
the  1 8th  century  as  a  defense  against  Indian  attacks;  the  spot  where  the 
fort  stood  is  marked  by  a  large  boulder.  The  hilltop  provides  a  sweeping 
view  of  distant  mountains. 

The  Smith  House  (R),  on  Main  St.,  built  in  1765,  has  been  remodeled 
into  a  multiple  dwelling.  It  still  has  the  original  raised-panel  door  and 
beautiful  staircase;  every  room  is  paneled. 


342  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

The  Crockett- Jewett-Broad  House  (private),  129  Main  St.,  built  in  1765,  is  a 
well-preserved  structure  with  large  central  chimney,  roughly  hewn,  ex- 
posed corner-posts  and  wide  granite  entrance  steps.  The  small-paned 
attic  windows  have  the  original  glass  and  the  cellar  contains  a  large  rain- 
water cistern. 

In  Gorham  is  the  junction  with  State  25  (see  Tour  19). 

SOUTH  WINDHAM  (alt.  155),  49.1  m.,  an  industrial  village,  lies  in  two 
townships;  the  business  section  and  most  of  the  residences  are  in  Gorham 
and  the  two  major  factories  and  the  post  office  are  in  Windham. 

On  Depot  St.  is  (R)  the  Birthplace  of  John  Albion  Andrew  (private), 
Governor  (1860-66)  of  Massachusetts;  he  was  born  in  1818. 

At  49.7  m.  is  a  junction  with  the  River  Road. 

1.  Right  on  this  road  to  the  two  buildings  (R)  of  the  Stale  Reformatory  for  Men, 
1  m.,  established  in  1919. 

Horsebeef  or  Mallison  Falls,  on  the  Presumpscot  River,  in  the  rear  of  the  reforma- 
tory, received  the  name  from  an  incident  that  is  said  to  have  occurred  while  the  mill 
and  dam  were  under  construction  in  1740.  Among  the  food  supplied  to  the  workers 
was  a  barrel  of  beef,  which  the  men  thought  to  be  of  a  fine  quality  until  the  day 
the  cook  produced  a  pair  of  horse's  hoofs  from  the  bottom  of  the  barrel.  The  re- 
maining meat  was  dumped  into  the  river. 

At  2.6  m.  (L),  is  the  Parson  Smith  House  (private),  a  two-and-a-half-story  structure 
built  in  1764  by  the  Reverend  Peter  T.  Smith,  one  of  the  early  settlers.  There  are 
two  large  chimneys  providing  a  fireplace  in  every  room,  the  one  in  the  kitchen  being 
10  feet  wide. 

The  Smith  House  is  on  the  site  of  Old  Province  Fort,  built  so  hastily  that  the  first 
church  was  partly  torn  down  to  supply  material  for  it;  settlers  lived  within  the 
stockade  almost  constantly  between  1744  and  1751,  a  period  in  which  Indian  raids 
were  frequent.  After  a  few  years  of  peace  the  raids  began  again;  Ezra  Brown, 
Ephraim  Winship,  four  other  men,  and  four  boys  went  out  to  work  in  Brown's  lot; 
Brown  and  Winship,  who  were  at  some  distance  from  the  others,  were  fired  on  and 
scalped  by  a  band  of  20  Indians  led  by  Chief  Poland.  Four  of  the  party  hurried 
back  to  the  settlement  for  help  and  in  the  fighting  that  followed  Poland  was  killed. 

In  Smith  Cemetery  (R)  is  the  John  Anderson  Tomb  (1807).  Its  door  resembles  that 
of  a  bank  vault  and  is  fastened  by  a  lock,  the  combination  of  which  is  known  by 
few,  if  any,  now  living. 

2.  Left  on  the  River  Road  is  NEWHALL  (alt.  225,  Windham  Town),  0.5  m.  In 
1818,  two  Massachusetts  men  built  a  powder  mill  here  by  Gambo  Falls;  they  later 
sold  it  to  George  G.  Newhall  for  whom  the  settlement  was  named.  The  Russian 
government,  while  engaged  in  the  Crimean  War,  placed  huge  orders  with  this  mill. 

At  52.3  m.  (L)  is  the  Friends  Meeting-House  (1849).  Quakers  began 
settling  in  this  region  in  1774. 

WINDHAM  CENTER  (alt.  250,  Windham  Town,  pop.  2076),  53.1  m., 
is  a  small  agricultural  community. 

FOSTER'S  CORNER  (alt.  210,  Windham  Town),  54.2  m.,  is  at  a 
junction  with  US  302  (see  Tour  18). 

GRAY  (alt.  310,  Gray  Town,  pop.  1189),  61.5  m.,  settled  in  1762  as  New 
Boston  and  incorporated  in  1778,  has  a  small,  compact  business  and 
residential  section,  surrounded  by  well-kept  and  prosperous  farms  on 
elm-lined  highways.  Farming  and  canning  have  replaced  manufacturing 


TOUR  11:   From  Dover  to  Quebec  343 

as  the  principal  means  of  livelihood  here.  A  woolen  mill,  one  of  the  first  in 

the  United  States,  was  erected  in  North  Gray  about  1770  by  Samuel 

Mayhall. 

Pennell  Institute  (R),  on  Main  St.,  opened  in  1879  and  endowed  by  Henry 

Pennell,  now  serves  the  town  as  a  high  school. 

In  Gray  is  a  junction  with  State  26  (see  Tour  14). 

At  65.6  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  Opportunity  Farm  (open  to  visitors),  1  m.,  with  260  acres  of 
land,  on  a  high  hill  overlooking  most  of  Cumberland  County.  This  home  and 
school  for  boys  between  the  ages  of  8  and  15,  was  opened  in  1912  and  is  supported 
by  public  subscription. 

UPPER  GLOUCESTER  (alt.  340,  New  Gloucester  Town,  pop.  1866), 
69.6  m.j  is  the  center  of  a  township  granted  to  60  inhabitants  of  Gloucester, 
Mass.,  in  1736.  Eight  years  later  Captain  Isaac  Eveleth  came  to  advance 
the  interests  of  the  proprietors,  who  were  offering  £10  to  one-year  settlers, 
£20  to  two-year  settlers,  and  £30  to  three-year  settlers.  A  garrison 
erected  on  the  high  ground  in  1753-54  was  used  by  the  settlers  for  the 
following  six  years. 

AUBURN  (alt.  210,  pop.  18,571)  (see  AUBURN-LEWISTON),  78  m., 
is  at  a  junction  with  State  11  (see  Tour  13). 

At  81.1  m.  (L)  is  Lake  Auburn  (bathing  prohibited;  fishing  and  boating 
permitted),  a  clear,  sparkling  lake  fed  by  springs  that  is  the  water 
supply  for  the  cities  of  Auburn  and  Lewiston.  To  guard  this  from  pollu- 
tion, the  Auburn  Water  District  is  steadily  taking  over  adjoining  lands. 
Along  the  shores  are  beautiful  birch  and  maple  trees,  and  an  occasional 
pine  grove.  Lake  Grove,  on  the  eastern  shore,  flourished  as  a  resort  in 
the  early  iSgo's;  families  came  here  by  horse-car  from  the  near-by  cities 
for  Sunday  picnics  or  to  attend  the  open-air  theater  on  week  days. 
Many  large  fish  have  been  taken  from  these  waters,  including  landlocked 
salmon  weighing  up  to  15  pounds.  The  1 2-mile  drive  around  the  lake  is 
picturesque  and  delightful. 
TURNER  (alt.  290,  Turner  Town,  pop.  1362),  89.2  m. 

Right  from  Turner  on  a  gravel  road  is  TURNER  CENTER  (alt.  95,  Turner  Town), 
2  m.,  which  was  known  for  many  years  for  its  dairy  products. 
Leavitt  Institute  (R)  is  a  small  preparatory  school. 
At  95.4  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  219. 

i.  Right  on  State  219  is  NORTH  TURNER  (alt.  280,  Turner  Town),  0.4  m. 

At  HOWE'S  CORNER  (alt.  407,  Turner  Town),  3.6  m.,  exact  directions  or  a  guide 
should  be  secured  in  the  general  store  (R)  for  the  hike  to  Devil's  Den,  5.1  m. 
Dungarees  and  water-proofed  shoes  are  essential  in  making  this  trip,  as  low,  boggy 
land  is  crossed  en  route  and  the  climb  up  the  cave  is  rough. 
The  Devil's  Den  is  entered  by  a  low  aperture  not  easily  discovered.  The  climber 
must  'inch'  his  way  (R)  and  (L)  over  boulders  to  climb  the  cave  whose  four  levels 
extend  deep  into  a  hill  around  a  central  passage  extending  upward  100  feet.  When 
this  place  was  first  discovered  some  years  after  the  town  was  settled,  it  was  com- 
paratively free  of  the  soil  that  has  since  gradually  obliterated  the  outlines  of  the 
different  rooms.  In  the  lower  rooms  there  is  some  seepage  that  forms  ice  on  the 
stone  wall  even  in  summer.  The  wall  of  the  central  staircase  formed  by  great  boul- 


344  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

ders  is  always  damp,  while  the  accumulated  soil  in  the  rooms,  with  the  exception  of 
the  lowest  level,  has  a  meal-like  dryness.  The  central  opening  emerges  onto  the 
flat  top  of  a  great  ledge  from  which  the  Androscoggin  River,  2  miles  east,  is  visible. 

Legends  of  Indian  occupation  of  these  caves  are  surprisingly  lacking,  undoubtedly 
owing  to  the  fact  that  the  Indians  retired  from  this  area  before  the  coming  of  the 
settlers. 

2.  Left  on  State  219  to  Bear  Pond  Park  (open  June  1  to  Labor  Day;  boats  for  hire) 
(R),  1.5  m.,  an  amusement  resort  in  a  long  pine  grove  on  the  southern  shore  of  Bear 
Pond.  A  casino  (roller  skating),  hotel,  cottages,  and  bath-houses  are  here. 

LIVERMORE  (alt.  504,  Livermore  Town,  pop.  1113),  98.3  m.,  is  the 
corporate  center  of  a  farming  town  of  several  small  villages  in  a  fertile  belt 
where  orcharding  and  dairying  are  carried  on. 

At  99.3  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  wide  gravel  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  Washburn  Homestead  (private),  3  m.,  a  large  two-and-a- 
half-story  yellow  house,  built  by  Israel  Washburn,  father  of  seven  sons  —  Israel, 
Representative  from  Maine  (1851-61),  Governor  of  Maine  (1861-62);  William  D., 
manufacturer,  railroad  builder,  Representative  from  Minnesota  (1879-85),  Senator 
from  Minnesota  (1889-95);  Samuel,  captain  of  a  Union  ship  during  the  Civil  War; 
Charles,  U.S.  Minister  to  Paraguay,  and  author  of  a  history  of  that  country; 
Cadwallader,  banker,  lumber  and  flour  manufacturer,  Representative  from  Wis- 
consin (1855-61 ;  1867-71),  major  general  in  the  Union  Army  during  the  Civil  War, 
Governor  of  Wisconsin  (1872-74);  Elihu,  Representative  from  Illinois  (1853-69), 
Secretary  of  State  in  Grant's  Cabinet,  U.S.  Minister  to  France  (1869-77);  and 
Algernon,  a  merchant  and  banker  of  note. 

LIVERMORE  FALLS  (alt.  390,  Livermore  Falls  Town,  pop.  3148), 
106.1  m.,  is  a  busy  paper-mill  settlement  and  shopping  center  for  the 
farmers  in  the  environs.  A  large  part  of  the  population  is  French- 
Canadian  by  birth  or  descent. 

The  International  Paper  Company  Plant  (open  to  visitors)  produces  540 
tons  of  ground  wood  every  24  hours. 

CHISHOLM  (alt.  380,  Jay  Town),  106.6  m.,  is  a  densely  populated  in- 
dustrial settlement,  with  large  pulp  and  paper  mills. 

JAY  (alt.  415,  Jay  Town,  pop.  3106),  108.6  m.  The  business  section  lies 
(L)  off  State  4. 

NORTH  JAY  (alt.  450,  Jay  Town),  111.8  m.,  is  famed  for  its  white 
granite,  the  blocks  for  Grant's  Tomb  being  among  the  many  large  pieces 
cut  here.  The  Stone  Sheds  and  Quarries  are  on  the  side  hill  (R). 

WILTON  (alt.  600,  Wilton  Town,  pop.  3266),  114.6  m.,  is  at  the  junction 
with  US  2  (see  Tour  4). 

FARMINGTON  (alt.  420,  Farmington  Town,  pop.  3600)  (see  Tour  4), 

122.7  m.9  is  at  the  junctions  with  US  2  (see  Tour  4)  and  State  27  (see  Tour 

12). 

BACKUS  CORNER  (Farmington  Town),  124.6  m. 

Right  from  Backus  Corner  on  a  dirt  road  a  short  distance  to  (R)  the  Birthplace  of 
Lillian  Nordica  (adm.  25^),  0.7  m.  The  one-and-a-half-story  cottage  contains  her 
collection  of  operatic  scores  and  autographed  pictures,  and  many  personal  effects. 
Lillian  Norton  was  born  in  1859  of  music-loving  parents;  when  her  musically 
promising  sister,  Wilhelmina,  died  suddenly,  Lillian,  then  15  years  old,  went 
secretly  to  have  her  voice  tested,  hoping  to  be  able  to  achieve  the  success  her  ambi- 


TOUR  11:  From  Dover  to  Quebec  345 

tious  mother  had  anticipated  for  her  older  daughter.  Though  her  high  voice  was 
light  and  unusually  sweet,  she  was  slow  in  reaching  her  goal,  owing  to  both 
European  and  American  prejudice  against  American-born  musicians;  she  assumed 
the  name  of  Giglia  Nordica  to  disguise  her  nativity.  Her  early  training  was  re- 
ceived in  Boston;  later,  she  studied  under  Sangiovanni,  in  Milan.  She  had  a  varied 
matrimonial  career,  the  first  marriage  ending  dramatically,  after  divorce  papers 
had  been  filed,  with  the  disappearance  of  her  husband,  an  inventor,  who  had  sailed 
off  in  a  balloon.  She  died  in  Java  in  1914  as  the  result  of  exposure  suffered  after  a 
shipwreck  off  Thursday  Island. 

At  125.2  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  27  (see  Tour  12). 

At  132.6  m.  (R)  is  the  Birthplace  of  Elizabeth  Akers  Allen  (private}, 
identifiable  by  a  Victorian  summer  house.  In  this  gazebo  Mrs.  Allen 
(1832-1911),  newspaper  woman  and  author,  did  much  writing  in  her  later 
years.  She  was  thrice  married,  her  second  husband  being  Benjamin  Paul 
Akers,  a  sculptor. 

STRONG  (alt.  505,  Strong  Town,  pop.  877),  133.6  m.,  the  business  center 

of  this  viUage  lies  (R)  off  State  4. 

Maine's  Republican  party  was  founded  in  this  town  on  Aug.  7,  1854,  with 

temperance  and  opposition  to  slavery  as  the  two  specific  planks  in  its 

platform. 

At  138.5  m.  (L)  is  Mount  Blue  (alt.  3187). 

PHILLIPS  (alt.  550,  Phillips  Town,  pop.  1143),  140.8  m.,  on  picturesque 
Sandy  River,  is  a  large  village  surrounded  by  wooded  hills.  This  area  was 
virgin  forest  until  lumber  interests  bought  the  timber.  As  the  trees  were 
cut  and  the  lumbermen  gradually  moved  northward  leaving  behind  a 
stump-covered  area,  settlers  came  in  who  cleared  the  land  and  farmed  it. 
The  village,  the  cultural  and  commercial  center  of  the  sparsely  settled 
country  to  the  north,  manufactures  wood  novelties.  In  the  hills  through- 
out the  township  are  silica  deposits. 

MADRID  (alt.  845,  Madrid  Town,  pop.  207),  147.7  m.,  is  a  small  village 
on  the  fast-flowing  western  branch  of  Sandy  River. 

Right  from  the  village  center  in  Chandler  Mill  stream  is  lovely  Small's  Falls,  while 
a  few  hundred  feet  away  in  Sandy  River,  just  before  its  junction  with  the  Mill 
stream,  is  another  series  of  cataracts. 

At  153.5  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  local  road. 

Right  on  this  road,  and  then  on  a  trail  to  Saddleback  Lookout  Station,  4  m.  (see 
Sports  and  Recreation:  Hiking  and  Mountain  Climbing). 

RANGELEY  (alt.  1545,  Rangeley  Town,  pop.  1472),  162.9  *».,  is  a 
trading  center  in  the  widely  known  Rangeley  hunting  and  fishing  area. 
It  has  seven  hotels  and  numerous  lodges  and  camps  (registered  guides 
available  for  hunting  and  fishing} ;  steamboat  service  (variable  schedule, 
apply  at  wharf}  to  points  on  Rangeley  Lake  (seaplane  base}.  The  three 
golf  courses  in  the  environs  are  2000  feet  above  sea  level. 

Rangeley,  within  sight  of  beautiful  Rangeley  Lake,  lies  deep  in  the  heart 
of  a  forest  region  that  reaches  across  the  Canadian  border.  Within  a 
radius  of  10  miles,  40  sparkling  trout-  and  salmon-filled  lakes  and  ponds 


346  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

lie  between  rugged  evergreen-clad  hills  and  mountains.  This  wilderness 
is  the  natural  habitat  of  big  game  and  many  other  kinds  of  wild  life. 

Rangeley  Township,  the  village,  the  broad  lake,  and  even  the  adjacent 
countryside,  the  Rangeley  Region,  received  their  name  from  Squire 
Rangeley,  an  Englishman  from  Yorkshire.  Soon  after  his  arrival  here  in 
1825,  he  began  the  establishment  of  a  great  estate  patterned  after  those  of 
his  homeland.  He  asked  no  price  for  his  land,  giving  extensively  of  his 
acres  to  new  settlers.  He  built  a  sawmill  and  a  gristmill  and  constructed  a 
ten-mile  stretch  of  road  through  the  wilderness  to  connect  the  settlement 
(and  its  great  product,  lumber)  with  the  outside  world.  While  developing 
his  holdings,  he  made  his  home  at  Portland,  where  he  had  built  a  mansion 
on  State  Street,  the  city's  'Gold  Coast'  (see  PORTLAND).  For  reasons 
now  unknown,  the  Rangeley  family  did  not  remain  in  Maine,  but  took  up 
residence  in  Virginia,  where  the  Squire  is  said  to  have  held  vast  acreage  in 
what  is  now  Henry  County. 

DALLAS  (Dallas  Plantation,  pop.  211),  163.9  m.  The  highway  is  crossed 
by  an  old  narrow-gauge  railroad,  no  longer  in  use.  Only  a  few  years  ago 
there  was  a  network  of  these  roads  through  the  southern  part  of  the  State ; 
trains  hauled  by  miniature  locomotives  stopped  at  every  cowpath.  In 
this  region  in  addition  to  the  passenger  service  there  was  a  heavy  freight 
business,  the  small  locomotive  being  able  to  pull  100  cars  of  lumber. 

Green's  Farm  (Coplin  Plantation)  is  right,  176.3  m.',  on  it  is  a  massive 
two-story  house  with  cupola,  built  about  1875.  For  a  quarter  of  a  century, 
Green's  Farm  and  Maine  hunting  and  fishing  were  synonymous  to  hun- 
dreds of  out-of-State  sportsmen,  there  being  few  lodges  catering  to  this 
type  of  visitor. 

At  STRATTON  (alt.  1170,  Eustis  Town),  181.5  m.,  is  a  junction  with 
State  27  (see  Tour  12). 

At  182.5  m.  the  road  enters  the  southern  end  of  the  tract  known  as  Cathe- 
dral Pines,  a  beautiful  stand  of  tall  Norway  pines  covering  several  square 
miles  on  both  sides  of  the  road.  The  northern  end  of  the  grove  was  the 
Site  of  One  of  Benedict  Arnold's  Camps,  during  his  ill-fated  expedition  to 
Quebec  in  1775. 

The  expedition  led  by  Arnold  was  a  quixotic  project  of  the  early  days  of 
the  Revolutionary  War.  A  few  of  the  Colonial  leaders  believed  that  the 
French  of  Quebec,  who  had  been  under  English  rule  since  1763,  would  be 
eager  to  join  the  revolt  against  the  Crown;  it  was  decided  that  Arnold 
should  take  uoo  men  up  through  Maine  and  meet  a  force  of  equal  size 
led  by  General  Richard  Montgomery,  who  would  go  north  by  way  of  Lake 
Champlain.  Arnold  and  his  men,  who  were  poorly  equipped  and  hastily 
assembled  with  little  training,  left  Cambridge  on  September  13,  1775,  and 
six  days  later  had  entered  the  Kennebec,  Arnold  planning  to  follow  a 
route  that  had  been  explored  and  reported  on  by  English  officials. 
Progress  up  the  river  was  slow,  because  of  the  time  required  to  construct 
the  boats  necessary  for  the  shallower  waters,  and  the  autumn  rains  had 
begun;  many  of  the  men  became  ill  and  had  to  be  left  behind.  On  October 


TOUR  1 1 :   From  Dover  to  Quebec  347 

19,  the  diminishing  band  finally  reached  Eustis.  From  there  they  went 
up  the  northern  branch  of  Dead  River;  on  the  23d  they  lost  several 
scowloads  of  provisions,  which  sank  in  the  river.  The  weather  increased 
in  severity  and  many  of  the  undisciplined  Revolutionary  heroes  decided 
that  they  would  go  no  farther.  Arnold  crossed  the  present  international 
boundary  line  on  October  25,  and  after  the  stragglers  caught  up  with  him, 
went  down  the  Chaudiere  River.  When  Montgomery  and  Arnold  met 
near  Quebec,  the  former  had  500  men  left,  the  latter  510.  The  attack 
took  place  during  a  December  snowstorm,  and,  though  the  troops  entered 
the  town,  they  were  driven  out  with  heavy  losses;  Montgomery  was 
killed  and  Arnold  was  wounded. 
At  184  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  EUSTIS  RIDGE  (alt.  1460),  2  m.,  from  which  there  is  a 
splendid  view  of  the  mountains,  including  Sugar  Loaf  (alt.  4237). 

At  184.6  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  149,  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  State  149  is  FLAGSTAFF  (alt.  1115,  Flagstaff  Plantation,  pop.  179),  6 
m.  Lumbermen's  homes  occupy  the  cleared  area  of  the  high  northern  bank  of 
Dead  River.  A  tablet  opposite  the  post  office  marks  the  Site  of  one  of  Benedict 
Arnold's  Camps  during  his  march  through  Maine.  On  arrival  here,  a  party  of  men 
was  sent  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Bigelow  to  view  the  country  beyond  through  which 
they  were  to  pass.  They  erected  a  flag,  and  from  this  incident  the  town  of  Flag- 
staff received  its  name.  Arnold  found  the  cabin  of  Natanis,  sometimes  spelled 
Satanis,  an  Indian,  on  the  site  of  the  present  village. 

DEAD  RIVER  (Dead  River  Plantation,  pop.  £2),  12.4  m.  Near  this  point  Ar- 
nold's expedition  reached  Dead  River  after  making  a  portage  from  the  Kennebec 
River. 

EUSTIS  (alt.  n85,Eustis  Town,  pop.  601),  186.3  w.,  in  a  heavily  wooded 
area,  is  a  frontier  village. 

At  190.9  m.  (R)  is  Alder  Stream  Camp  Site  (public),  near  which,  on  Alder 
Stream,  Arnold  lost  supplies  (see  above). 

At  195.7  m.  (R)  is  Sarampas  Falls  Camp  Site  (public),  the  most  northerly 
of  a  series  of  State  Forestry  camp  sites  in  the  area,  which  lies  in  a  birch 
grove  near  a  pebbly  beach  on  Sarampas  Stream;  the  camp  is  about  200 
yards  above  the  small  falls  mentioned  by  Arnold  in  his  letters. 

The  route  now  crosses  the  southern  boundary  of  CHAIN  OF  PONDS 
TOWNSHIP.  Silvery  birch  and  glossy  green  maple  stand  out  among 
the  dense  evergreens  here,  and  occasional  ponds,  traversed  by  Arnold, 
gleam  through  the  silent  darkly-green  wilderness. 

At  196.7  m.  (L),  on  the  side  of  Bag  Pond  Mountain,  are  what  appear  to  be 
dumped  carloads  of  bituminous  coal,  but  are  in  reality  deposits  of  broken 
slate. 

At  197.2  m.  is  a  watershed  ridge  (alt.  1360)  where  the  road  widens  through 
a  beautiful  growth  of  white  birch.  The  highway  now  cuts  into  the  ledge 
(R)  of  Mt.  Pisgah  and  Mt.  Sisk,  for  about  5  miles,  limiting  the  outlook  to 
forest  and  rough  ledge,  with  an  occasional  magnificent  view  (L)  across 
deep  gorges  to  the  lovely  Chain  of  Lakes  shimmering  against  the  wild 
rugged  background  of  Round,  Snow,  Indian  Stream,  and  Bag  Pond 
Mountains. 


348  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

At  206.5  m.  is  visible,  to  the  rear  and  through  the  highway  aisle,  towering 
Mt.  Pisgah  (alt.  3325). 

MOOSEHORN  (alt.  1400,  Unorganized  Township  of  Coburn  Gore,  pop. 
50),  217.9  m.,  an  apparent  extension  of  Arnold  Pond,  is  a  new  modern 
lumber-mill  settlement  replacing  a  settlement  destroyed  by  fire  in  May, 
1936.  About  20  unpainted  houses  are  grouped  about  the  Mill  (L),  near 
the  fragrant  piles  of  freshly  sawed  lumber  that  lie  drying  in  the  sun. 
At  ARNOLD  POND,  218  m.,  State  4  crosses  the  Canadian  Boundary, 
137  miles  south  of  Quebec.  Arnold  Pond,  a  sub-station  of  the  Holeb- 
Jackman  port  of  entry,  is  on  the  boundary,  which  follows  the  watershed  of 
a  low  range  of  mountains  whose  green-mantled  slopes  stretch  out  for  mile 
upon  mile  in  either  direction,  the  only  visible  gap  being  directly  west.  It 
was  at  Arnold  Pond  that  Arnold's  expedition  is  believed  to  have  crossed 
the  height  of  land.  The  Customs  and  Immigration  Station  (L)  was  erected 
in  1931. 


TOUR  1  1  A  :  From  RANGELEY  to  HAINES  LANDING, 
9  m.,  State  16. 

Tar-surfaced  roadbed,  soft  shoulders. 

THIS  route  skirts  four  of  the  six  Rangeley  Lakes  —  13 -mile  Mooselook- 
meguntic,  7 -mile  Rangeley  (Oquossoc),  Molechunkamunk,  and  Cupsup- 
tic.  The  Rangeley  region,  with  its  beautiful  lakes  and  streams  full  of 
trout  and  salmon,  and  its  forested  mountains  and  valleys  rich  in  game,  is  a 
semi-wilderness  of  a  kind  very  attractive  to  many  sportsmen  and  difficult 
to  match  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  United  States.  Hunters  and  fishermen 
who  come  to  this  area  need  not  live  any  more  primitively  than  they  care 
to,  and  can  vary  their  days  with  golf,  water  sports,  climbing,  and  other 
outdoor  and  indoor  recreations. 

Because  the  region  is  an  important  natural  resource  in  a  State  deriving  an 
increasing  part  of  its  income  from  visitors,  the  State  is  developing  and 
protecting  it.  Fish  hatcheries  have  been  established  at  Oquossoc  and 
other  points  for  the  breeding  of  salmon  and  trout,  which  are  released 
annually  to  replenish  the  supply  depleted  by  sportsmen.  The  Rangeley 
Game  Preserve  covers  unorganized  townships  5,  Range  5,  and  4,  Range  6, 
and  the  southern  half  of  3,  Range  5;  to  the  northeast  is  the  Bigelow 
Preserve. 

At  0  m.  State  16  branches  west  from  State  4  at  Rangeley  (see  Tour  11). 
At  0.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  improved  road. 

Right  on  this  road,  4.5  m.,  is  a  resort  called  LOG  VILLAGE,  established  in  1889, 
the  buildings  of  which  are  constructed  of  logs  in  a  style  suitable  to  the  region. 


TOUR  12:   From  Wiscasset  to  Stratton  349 

At  2.5  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  bituminous-topped  road. 

Left  on  this  road  0.7  m.  to  the  Rangeley  Lakes  Country  Club  (open  to  public},  with 
an  i8-hole  golf  course,  which  has  mountain  and  lake  views  in  all  sections;  the  lake 
breezes  and  the  altitude  (about  1600)  make  it  a  particularly  popular  course  in 
summer. 

Near-by  is  a  Riding  Academy  where  mounts  may  be  hired  for  following  the  many 
miles  of  lakeside  and  mountain  trails  that  wind  through  groves  of  birch  and  pine. 

At  7  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road,  which  soon  becomes  a  tote  road  wandering  along  the  northern 
shore  of  the  Lakes  and  eventually  enters  New  Hampshire.  This  road  can  be 
followed  by  car  in  mid-summer  though  the  riding  is  rough;  the  opportunities  for 
fishing  compensate  for  this  inconvenience. 

OQUOSSOC  (alt.  1510,  Rangeley  Town),  7.7  m.,  is  passed  on  the  Range- 
ley  Lakes  Canoe  Trip  (see  Sports  and  Recreation).  This  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  dog-sled  postal  service  maintained  in  winter  when  many  of 
the  roads  of  the  region  are  impassable  for  automobiles.  Three  times  a 
week  the  team  of  Baffin  Land  huskies  mushes  through  the  woods  carrying 
mail  to  Kennebago  and  Grant's.  Although  only  100  people  are  served,  the 
average  weight  of  the  cargo  is  400  to  500  pounds  because  of  the  mer- 
chandise sent  in  by  parcel  post. 

HAINES  LANDING  (alt.  1490,  Rangeley  Town),  9  m.t  has  steamboat 
service  (inquire  at  wharf  for  schedule)  with  other  settlements  on  the  lake. 
The  village  has  a  hotel  that  is  surrounded  by  private  camps  and  summer 
homes  designed  to  fit  the  setting;  it  also  has  a  general  store  and  a  store 
specializing  in  sport  goods.  The  hotel  and  estate  grounds  have  been  land- 
scaped with  native  shrubs  and  trees. 

The  paved  motor  road  ends  here,  but  rough  roads  and  trails  branch  off 
along  the  heavily  wooded  shores  of  Lake  Mooselookmeguntic. 


TOUR      12:     From  WISCASSET  to   STRATTON,  117.8  «., 

State  27. 


Via  Pittston,  Randolph,  Gardiner,  Augusta,  Belgrade,  Kingfield,  and  Bigelow. 
Two-lane  hard-surfaced  roadbed. 

BETWEEN  Wiscasset  and  the  Kennebec  River,  State  27  traverses  a 
gradually  rising  terrain,  then  crosses  the  Kennebec  and  runs  along  the 
western  bank;  at  Augusta  it  swings  northwest  past  the  Belgrade  Lake 
chain,  and  runs  through  the  valley  of  the  Carrabassett  River.  There  are 
many  opportunities  for  canoeing,  climbing,  hunting,  and  fishing  along 
this  route. 


35°  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

WISCASSET  (alt.  50,  Wiscasset  Town,  pop.  1186)  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b), 

0  m.,  is  at  the  junction  with  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b). 

DRESDEN  MILLS  (alt.  70,  Dresden  Town,  pop.  629),  8.5  m.,  is  a  small 

elm-shaded  settlement  on  the  southern  bank  of  Eastern  River. 

At  10.6  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  128. 

Left  on  this  road  to  Pownalborough  Courthouse,  2.8  m.  (R),  a  large  three-story  white 
building  built  in  1761  as  the  seat  of  government  for  Lincoln  County,  which  had 
been  incorporated  in  the  previous  year.  It  stands  within  the  limits  of  the  former 
parade  grounds  of  Fort  Shirley,  built  in  1754  and  first  called  Fort  Frankfort.  The 
court  room  is  on  the  second  floor;  the  lower  floor  has  always  been  used  as  a  dwelling. 
In  Revolutionary  days  the  records  of  the  court  were  swollen  by  'Tory  trials'  and 
proceedings  involving  the  care  and  disposition  of  confiscated  estates  of  absentee 
Loyalists. 

At  16.2  m.  is  (L)  the  well-preserved  Major  Reuben  Colburn  House,  built  in 
1765  by  four  Colburn  brothers  who  came  with  their  four  sisters  from 
Dunstable,  Mass.,  in  1761.  The  plain  structure,  now  painted  white  with 
green  shutters,  contains  many  of  the  original  furnishings,  including  a 
brass-studded  cradle,  in  which  the  children  of  the  family  were  rocked. 

Colonel  Benedict  Arnold  (see  Tour  11),  and  his  officers  were  entertained 
by  Major  Colburn,  September  21-23,  1775,  in  this  home,  while  the 
soldiers  built  their  own  shelters  on  the  grounds  during  the  transfer  of  the 
army  of  noo  men  to  220  batteau  built  by  Major  Colburn  for  the  ex- 
pedition to  Quebec. 

The  Money  Holes,  16.6  m.  (R),  are  the  result  of  the  usual  legend  of  vast 
treasure  buried  by  Captain  Kidd.  Thousands  of  tons  of  earth  have  been 
turned  over,  leaving  several  holes,  one  80  feet  deep,  though  not  a  single 
coin  or  jewel  has  ever  been  uncovered. 

PITTSTON  (alt.  55,  Pittston  Town,  pop.  893),  17.1  m.,  is  a  scattered 
group  of  houses  on  both  sides  of  the  road.  In  1676  the  first  settler  in  the 
town,  Alexander  Brown,  was  killed  by  Indians.  Dr.  Sylvester  Gardiner 
(see  Tour  10),  resident  proprietor  and  manager  of  the  Kennebec  Purchase, 
lived  here  and  was  visited  by  Benedict  Arnold. 

From  1848  to  1900  enormous  ice  houses  here  were  filled  each  winter  and 
during  the  'ice-boom'  (1870-95)  15  to  20  vessels  were  often  seen  at  one 
time  loading  ice  for  delivery  to  the  cities  farther  south. 

RANDOLPH  (alt.  175,  Randolph  Town,  pop.  1377),  19.1  m.,  is  a  compact 
settlement  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Kennebec.  The  town  is  a  residential 
district  for  many  persons  employed  in  Gardiner's  factories. 

GARDINER  (alt.  90,  pop.  5609)  (see  Tour  10),  19.3  m. 

Between  Gardiner  and  Augusta  State  27  and  US  201  are  one  route  (see 
Tour  10). 

AUGUSTA  (alt.  120,  pop.  17,198)  (see  AUGUSTA),  25.7  «.,  is  at  a 
junction  of  US  201  (see  Tour  10),  State  9  and  State  11  (see  Tour  13),  and 
State  17  (see  Tour  17). 

At  31.1  m.  (R)  is  a  Rifle  Range,  used  occasionally  for  target  practice  with 
light  ordnance.  Extending  north  for  3  miles  is  Sidney  Bog,  beyond  which 


TOUR  12:   From  Wiscasset  to  Stratton  351 

is  a  mile  or  two  of  wild  land.  Although  the  Bog  has  an  abundant  blue- 
berry crop,  it  is  left  untouched  because  of  the  presence  of  '  duds '  —  un- 
exploded  shells  from  the  rifle  range  —  that  lie  hidden  in  the  moss. 

BELGRADE  (alt.  255,  Belgrade  Town,  pop.  978),  37.7  m.,  is  the  small 
commercial  center  of  a  lake  region.  On  the  southwestern  outskirts  of  the 
settlement  is  the  Minot  House,  birthplace  in  1872  of  John  Clair  Minot, 
author  and  the  literary  editor  of  the  Boston  Herald  since  1919. 

BELGRADE  LAKES  (alt.  260,  Belgrade  Town),  44.8  m.,  is  a  lake  resort 
settlement  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Long  Pond,  a  glistening  sheet  of  water 
between  beautifully  wooded  shores  along  which  are  scattered  fine  cottages 
and  summer  hotels. 

The  six  large  lakes  of  the  Belgrade  chain,  connected  by  streams,  provide 
opportunities  for  excellent  fishing  as  well  as  for  easy  canoe  trips  suitable 
for  the  amateur  canoeist  and  arduous  journeys  with  2o-foot  canoes  for  the 
paddle-hardened.  In  the  waters  of  these  lakes  are  landlocked  salmon, 
lake  trout,  black  bass,  pickerel,  and  white  perch,  all  gamey  fish,  valued  by 
the  visitors  who  throng  this  area  during  the  fishing  season. 

ROME  (alt.  530,  Rome  Town,  pop.  398),  48.3  m.,  a  'four  corners,'  is  in  the 
most  rugged  and  least  settled  section  of  the  Belgrade  Lakes  area,  a 
heavily  wooded  and  hilly  country  with  several  lakes.  As  the  first  green 
buds  appear  on  damp  brown  branches  in  the  spring,  the  woods  here  be- 
come alive  with  the  songs  of  birds;  scarlet-breasted  robins  and  bluebirds 
usher  in  the  spring  days,  and  as  the  grasses  grow  higher,  the  humming  of 
the  locust  and  chirping  of  crickets  blend  with  the  soft  calls  of  the  Peabody 
bird,  the  meadow  lark,  and  the  chickadee.  Later  the  raucous  cries  of  blue 
jays  and  kingfishers  echo  over  the  surfaces  of  the  lakes,  whose  tranquillity 
is  occasionally  broken  by  the  splash  of  fish  jumping  for  flies.  As  summer 
shadows  lengthen  and  grow  black  near  the  marshlands,  a  chorus  of  frogs 
is  heard,  punctuated  by  the  notes  of  whippoorwills  and  the  laughs  of 
loons. 

Winter,  in  this  region,  has  its  own  charms;  the  soft  thud  of  snow  falling 
from  over-burdened  pines,  the  deep,  long-drawn-out  boom  made  as  the 
lakes  finally  freeze,  and  the  faint  vibration  of  ' northern  lights'  streaming 
to  the  zenith  on  clear  cold  nights,  like  a  bright  rainbow  over  a  white 
world. 

At  55.9  m.  is  a  junction  with  US  2  (see  Tour  4).  Between  this  point  and 
Farmington,  State  27  and  US  2  are  one  route  (see  Tour  4) ;  also  between 
Farmington  and  70.1  m.,  State  27  and  State  4  are  one  route  (see  Tour  11). 

NEW  VINEYARD  (alt.  610,  New  Vineyard  Town,  pop.  447),  78.9  m., 
has  an  active  sawmiU  and  a  woodworking  mill. 

In  the  northwestern  section  of  this  township  are  4  ponds  in  lowlands  sur- 
rounded by  heavily  wooded  hills.  Numerous  small  streams  (good  fishing) 
cut  through  the  hillsides,  and  the  few  roads  traversing  the  area  are  closely 
shut  in  by  the  luxuriant  foliage  of  towering  trees  whose  bases  are  buried 
deep  in  masses  of  tall,  lacy  ferns. 


352  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

This  is  one  of  the  Franklin  County  towns  to  which  many  of  the  early 
settlers  came  from  the  Kennebec  River  Valley.  Going  from  the  Massa- 
chusetts Bay  Colony,  or  directly  from  England,  to  the  Kennebec  River 
Valley,  their  means  were  sufficient  >  for  proving  their  claims  under  the 
requirements  of  the  Kennebec  Purchase.  After  fulfilling  the  legal  re- 
quirements there,  they  found  themselves  faced  with  a  sizable  levy,  one  of 
the  impositions  of  lawless  land  agents;  this  they  were  unable  to  meet,  and 
it  forced  them  to  push  on  to  the  Sandy  River  Valley. 

NEW  PORTLAND  (alt.  507,  New  Portland  Town,  pop.  818),  85.5  m.,  is 
the  center  of  a  township  given  to  the  people  of  Falmouth,  now  Portland 
(see  PORTLAND),  by  the  General  Court  of  Massachusetts  to  indemnify 
them,  in  part,  for  their  loss  through  the  destruction  of  that  town  by  the 
British  fleet  in  1775. 

KINGFIELD  (alt.  565,  Kingfield  Town,  pop.  1024),  92  m.,  with  its 
cement  bridges,  wide  streets,  and  modern  stores  and  offices,  a  distinct 
surprise  in  this  great  woods  area,  is  on  a  narrow  intervale  in  the  valley  of 
the  Carrabassett  River.  The  Carrabassett,  rapid  at  this  point,  created 
water-power  for  several  mills  when  lumbering  was  an  important  industry 
here. 

A  heavily  wooded  grade  rises  sharply  beside  the  river  (R)  north  of  Kingfield. 

A  boulder,  opposite  the  Universalist  Church,  marks  the  Site  of  the  Resi- 
dence of  Governor  William  King,  who  was  the  proprietor  of  this  region,  and 
Maine's  first  Governor. 

Holiness  Church,  with  headquarters  in  Kingfield,  is  a  sect  of  militant 
conservatives,  the  older  members  of  which  belonged  to  various  denomina- 
tions and  combined  to  preserve  the  old  forms  of  worship.  Their  creed  is 
evangelical  and  they  interpret  the  Bible  literally.  The  annual  Holiness 
Camp  Meeting  is  held  in  the  neighboring  town  of  Salem  during  the  last 
week  of  August. 

CARRABASSETT  (alt.  842,  Unorganized  Township  of  Jerusalem,  pop. 
185),  102.3  m.,  a  small  settlement  on  the  edge  of  an  unusually  wide 
bottom-land  by  the  Carrabassett  River,  is  surrounded  by  deep  forests. 
Several  log  houses  have  been  built  here  because  of  the  good  protection 
they  give  against  the  severe  cold  that  settles  over  the  region  in  early  fall. 

At  109.2  m.  is  the  entrance  to  a  foot  trail. 

Left  on  this  trail,  over  rocky  terrain  in  a  forested  country,  to  Sugarloaf  Mountain 
(alt.  4237),  about  4  m.  and  Crocker  Mountain  (alt.  4168),  about  5  m.  These  two 
peaks  are  in  the  Bigelow  Game  Preserve  (no  hunting  allowed],  a  vast  wooded  area 
taking  in  parts  of  Bigelow  and  Dead  River  Plantations,  as  well  as  parts  of  Town- 
ship 4,  Range  3,  Crockertown,  and  Jerusalem.  Here  the  big  game,  game  birds,  and 
smaller  animals  native  to  Maine  roam  unmolested  by  man. 

BIGELOW  (alt.  1305,  Unorganized  Township  of  Crockertown,  pop.  10), 
109.5  m.,  formerly  Bigelow  Station,  was  a  terminus  of  the  Sandy  River  and 
Rangeley  Lakes  (narrow  gauge)  R.R.  Except  during  midwinter  lumber- 
ing operations,  when  the  resounding  chop  of  axes,  the  shouts  of  lumber- 
jacks, and  the  aroma  of  bacon  and  beans  fill  the  air,  this  settlement  of  a 
dozen  log  houses  is  a  tiny  ghost  town. 


TOUR  13 :   From  Hampden  to  Naples  353 

At  116.7  m.  is  an  entrance  to  a  foot  trail. 

Left  on  this  trail,  through  hilly  country,  to  Hedgehog  Hill  (alt.  2087),  1.7  m.,  an 
irregular  tree-clad  eminence  in  a  hunting  region  frequented  by  residents  of  central 
Maine. 

STRATTON  (alt.  1170,  Eustis  Town,  pop.  601),  117.8  m.  On  the  north- 
western edge  of  the  settlement  is  the  junction  with  State  4  (see  Tour  11). 


TOUR      13:     From  HAMPDEN  to  NAPLES,  123  m.,  US  202 

(State  9,  State  3)  and  State  11. 


Via  Augusta,  Winthrop,  Lewiston,  Auburn  and  Mechanic  Falls. 
Two-lane  macadamized  and  cement  roadbed. 

THIS  inland  route  runs  for  the  most  part  through  thinly  settled  farm- 
lands. In  summer,  cottage  colonies  are  seen  around  the  lakes  passed  at 
intervals. 

HAMPDEN  (alt.  80,  Hampden  Town,  pop.  2417)  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  c)fQ  m., 
is  at  a  junction  with  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  c). 

HAMPDEN  CENTER  (alt.  234,  Hampden  Town),  2.2  m. 
WEST  HAMPDEN  (alt.  168,  Hampden  Town),  4.9  m. 
NEWBURGH  CENTER  (alt.  256,  Newburgh  Town,  pop.  551),  9  m. 

At  13.2  m.  the  highway  crosses  a  southern  extension  of  Pickard  Mountain 
(alt.  1221),  locally  known  as  Peaked  Mountain  because  of  its  cone-like 
shape.  The  timber  having  been  cut  from  its  slopes,  it  is  now  a  barren 
landmark  visible  over  a  wide  area. 

At  15.3  m.  is  a  view  (R)  of  a  long  range  known  as  the  Dixmont  Hills. 
Near-by  (L)  is  Mount^  Harris  (alt.  1233),  its  timber-stripped  slopes  suit- 
able only  for  the  grazing  of  sheep. 

DIXMONT  (alt.  543,  Dixmont  Town,  pop.  538),  16.3  m.,  is  at  the  junc- 
tion with  State  7. 

Left  2.7  m.  on  State  7  to  the  crest  of  The  Cliff  (alt.  980),  on  Mt.  Harris.  This 
precipice  drops  sheerly  (R),  and  from  a  small  parking  space  (L)  is  a  view  over  an 
attractive  valley  below  to  the  distant  Camden  Hills. 

At  6.7  m.  the  highway  crosses  Great  Farm  Brook,  meandering  across  the  Great  Farm 
which  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  road  at  this  point. 

From  Thorndike  Hill  (alt.  740),  7.9  m.,  is  a  comprehensive  View  of  the  Great 
Farm,  its  original  1200  acres,  now  subdivided  into  2oo-acre  farms]  extending 
across  a  narrow  valley  between  the  hills.  Israel  Thorndike  (1755-1832),  a  wealthy 
Boston  merchant,  came  into  possession  of  the  tract  in  1806.  He  cleared  the  land, 
built  a  mansion  of  the  Bumnch  type  and  created  a  beautiful  country  estate  with 


354  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

broad  lawns  and  large  barns.  He  stocked  the  farm  with  imported  Hereford  cattle 
and  merino  sheep,  and  set  out  an  orchard  of  500  apple  trees.  Daniel  Webster  was 
one  of  the  many  distinguished  guests  who  came  from  Boston  by  coach-and-four  for 
the  hunting  and  fishing  at  Mr.  Thorndike's  country  place.  One  barn  is  all  that 
remains  of  the  original  buildings,  the  others  having  been  destroyed  by  fire. 

TROY  (alt.  474,  Troy  Town,  pop.  651),  20.5  m.,  is  in  a  township  pur- 
chased about  1800  by  General  Bridge  of  Chelmsford,  Mass,  for  its  timber. 
Pine  was  cut,  sent  down  the  Sebasticook  and  Kennebec  Rivers  and  sold 
in  Gardiner,  at  a  time  when  1000  feet  of  lumber  could  be  sawed  for  one 
dollar.  After  the  land  was  cleared,  Indian  corn,  wheat,  oats,  and  barley 
were  raised  on  it,  and  several  gristmills  were  operated  on  the  ponds  and 
streams. 

UNITY  (alt.  231,  Unity  Town,  pop.  892),  27.1  m.,  on  the  Belfast  and 
Moosehead  Lake  R.R.,  is  a  small  but  active  commercial  center  in  this 
large,  sparsely  settled  area.  Before  the  establishment  of  trading  centers 
such  as  this,  the  populace  was  dependent  upon  itinerant  peddlers  who 
during  the  last  half  of  the  igth  century  walked  about  the  country  carrying 
packs  of  tinware,  cotton  goods,  stationery,  pictures,  and  dishes,  as  well  as 
the  latest  news. 

Frederic  Hale  Parkhurst  (1864-1921),  a  native  of  Unity,  arose  from  a  sick 
bed  for  his  inauguration  as  Governor  of  Maine  and  died  18  days  later. 

ALBION  (alt.  305,  Albion  Town,  pop.  923),  35.3  m.,  is  a  settlement  of 
well-built  homes  on  a  narrow  fertile  level  plateau  in  a  township  notable 
for  little  hills  and  ravines  of  unusual  shapes,  believed  to  have  been  carved 
by  receding  glaciers. 

East  of  Albion  Corner,  the  old  trees  shading  both  sides  of  the  road  are 
known  as  the  Rum  and  Water  Elms  because  of  an  incident  that  occurred 
during  the  temperance  agitation  of  1845.  Members  of  the  village  Wash- 
ingtonian  Society,  a  temperance  group,  and  the  anti-prohibitionists  agreed 
to  plant  rows  of  elm  trees  on  opposite  sides  of  the  road;  the  group  whose 
elms  made  the  finer  showing  was  to  be  considered  the  one  favored  by 
Providence.  The  Washingtonians  selected  the  south  side  of  the  street  and 
the  anti-prohibitionists  planted  along  the  north  side.  The  'rum  elms' 
grew  larger  and  today  give  broader  shade  than  do  the  'water  elms.' 

At  36.6  m.  (R)  is  Lovejoy  Pond,  a  small  body  of  water  with  groves  of 
silvery  birch  along  its  shores. 

At  38.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road  known  as  the  Pond  Road. 

Right  on  the  Pond  Road  to  the  Site  of  the  Lovejoy  Homestead,  1.4  m.  on  the  southern 
shore  of  Lovejoy  Pond.  Here  was  born  Elijah  Parish  Lovejoy  (1802-37),  anti- 
slavery  leader,  and  pioneer  in  defense  of  freedom  of  the  press.  Graduating  with 
honors  from  Colby  College  (see  WATERY  I LLE),  he  went  to  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  where 
he  became  interested  in  the  ministry,  and  in  freedom  for  the  slaves.  After  attending 
Princeton  Theological  Seminary  in  New  Jersey,  he  returned  to  St.  Louis  to  preach 
and  continue  his  fight  against  slavery.  In  1833  he  began  to  edit  a  religious  paper 
called  the  St.  Louis  Observer,  in  which  his  anti-slavery  views  found  expression.  In 
Missouri,  a  slave  State,  his  articles  met  with  opposition,  but  this  did  not  lessen  his 
determination  to  gain  freedom  for  the  slaves.  The  opposition  became  so  strong 
that  he  was  forced  to  move  across  the  river  to  Alton,  111.,  to  continue  his  work. 
Mobs  attacked  him  and  on  several  occasions  his  presses  were  destroyed,  but  he 


TOUR  13:   From  Hampden  to  Naples  355 

procured  new  ones  and  demanded  protection,  as  an  American  citizen,  to  carry  on 
his  work.  While  defending  his  press  against  a  mob  he  was  killed. 

On  a  93-foot  granite  shaft  topped  with  a  bronze  statue  of  Victory,  erected  to  his 
memory  in  Alton,  111.,  are  these  words:  'As  long  as  I  am  an  American  citizen,  and 
as  long  as  American  blood  runs  in  these  veins,  I  shall  hold  myself  at  liberty  to 
speak,  to  write,  and  to  publish  whatever  I  please  on  any  subject,  being  amenable  to 
the  laws  of  my  country  for  the  same.' 

CHINA  (alt.  222,  China  Town,  pop.  1164),  40.6  m.,  is  a  well-shaded 
little  village  of  old  homes  at  the  northern  end  of  China  Lake. 

In  1818,  when  the  town  was  incorporated  and  the  name  changed  from 
Harlem  to  China  —  for  a  favorite  old  hymn  —  there  was  much  contro- 
versy over  boundaries.  The  postmaster,  J.  C.  Washburn  wrote:  'My 
house  was  in  Winslow,  my  store  across  the  road  in  Albion,  and  my  potash 
works  40  rods  S.  were  in  Harlem.' 

Between  China  and  South  China  the  road  winds  along  the  eastern  shore  of 
China  Lake,  8  miles  in  length.  The  clear  blue  water  of  the  lake,  well  below 
the  level  of  the  highway,  lies  in  a  long  hollow  between  the  hills.  All  along 
this  attractive  section  of  the  route  are  farm  houses  and  summer  homes. 

At  44.3  m.  (L)  is  the  old  Friends'  Meeting-House.  Although  the  once 
active  congregation  is  now  widely  scattered,  Friends  still  gather  together 
here  at  least  once  a  year,  the  men  on  one  side  of  the  room  and  the  women 
on  the  other,  each  person  communing  in  silence  with  the  Spirit  and,  if 
moved,  rising  to  pray  or  address  his  brothers  and  sisters. 

The  Summer  Home  of  Rufus  M.  Jones,  46.3  m.  (R),  Quaker  minister  and 
long  a  president  of  Haverford  College,  is  on  a  hill  sloping  to  the  shore  of 
China  Lake,  and  commanding  one  of  its  finest  views.  The  large  pines  that 
border  the  farm  are  125  years  old,  and  were  planted  by  his  ancestors. 
From  the  hill  are  seen  Vassalboro  and  China  Lakes  with  their  small 
islands  and  to  the  west,  the  distant  Kennebago  Mountains.  Rufus  Jones, 
a  descendant  of  Quaker  missionaries,  is  the  author  of  more  than  40  books 
on  ethics  and  on  Quaker  history. 

SOUTH  CHINA  (alt.  209,  China  Town),  48.3  m.,  is  a  small  resort  village 
at  the  southern  end  of  China  Lake.  It  has  a  public  library  that  has  been  in 
existence  106  years. 

At  South  China  is  a  junction  with  State  3  (see  Tour  16). 

Left  from  South  China  on  State  32  to  the  Site  of  the  Birthplace  of  Leroy  S. 
Starrett  (1836-1922),  1.3  m.,  (L),  inventor-manufacturer,  who  secured  patents 
in  1865  for  a  meat  chopper,  a  washing  machine,  and  a  butter  worker.  After 
three  years  of  selling  these,  which  were  manufactured  for  him  by  the  Athol 
Machine  Co.,  he  purchased  controlling  interest  in  the  company  and  during  the 
next  10  years  as  superintendent,  invented  a  number  of  hand  tools  such  as  cer- 
tain types  of  calipers,  gauges,  levels,  and  other  precision  instruments. 

AUGUSTA  (alt.  120,  pop.  17,198)  (see  AUGUSTA},  59.8  m.,  is  at  the 
junction  of  US  201  (see  Tour  10),  State  27  (see  Tour  12),  and  State  17 
(see  Tour  17). 

MANCHESTER  (alt.  205,  Manchester  Town,  pop.  492),  65  m.  The  two 
large  old  structures  (R),  somewhat  remodeled,  were  inns  from  1800  to 


356  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

1850.  Before  the  advent  of  the  railroad,  Hallowell,  4  miles  east,  was  a 
busy  river  port  and  commercial  center.  The  settlers  of  Winthrop,  Read- 
field,  and  even  those  of  Sandy  River  valley  drove  or  rode  horseback  to 
Manchester,  then  known  as  The  Forks,  putting  up  in  one  of  these  inns  at 
night.  Early  the  next  morning  they  would  go  on  to  Hallowell  for  trading, 
spending  a  large  part  of  the  day  hauling  their  purchases  up  the  two  mile- 
long  hills  on  their  return  journey.  Stopping  their  second  night  at  The 
Forks,  they  were  ready  for  an  early  morning  start  over  more  level  roads 
to  their  homes. 

Right  from  Manchester  on  State  17  is  Monk's  Hill  Cemetery,  2.6  m.  (R),  overlooking 
Lake  Cobbosseecontee;  here  are  buried  the  early  Baptists  of  this  section  of  the 
town  of  Readfield.  In  the  cemetery  is  a  monument  to  '  Elder  Isaac  Case,  born  in 
Rehoboth,  Mass.,  Feb.  25,  1761,  was  ordained  a  Baptist  preacher  in  1783;  came  to 
Maine  and  gathered  the  first  church  in  Thomaston,  1784,  and  was  its  pastor  8 
years;  came  to  Readfield  1792,  gathered  a  church  and  officiated  as  its  pastor  till 
1800.  Died  Nov.  3,  1852.' 

Carlton  Pond,  3.4  m.  (L),  less  than  2  miles  long  and  0.5  mile  wide,  and  almost 
hidden  by  hardwood  and  pine  growth,  is  the  source  of  water  supply  of  the  City  of 
Augusta. 

The  Methodist  Meeting-House,  4.3  m.  (R),  a  plain  white  church  with  spire,  over- 
looking Lake  Maranacook,  was  the  first  Methodist  meeting-house  in  Maine;  it  was 
dedicated  in  1795  by  the  handsome  and  courtly  Methodist  clergyman,  Jesse  Lee 
(1758-1816),  who  traveled  about  on  horseback.  Lee,  known  as  the  'apostle  oi 
Methodism'  was  born  in  Virginia,  and  from  1809-15  was  Chaplain  of  Congress. 
The  New  England  Conference  of  Methodists,  with  an  attendance  of  1500,  was  held 
in  this  sparsely  settled  community  August  29,  1798. 

Lake  Maranacook,  7.7  m.  (L),  7  miles  long,  with  a  heavily  wooded  shoreline, 
provides  beautiful  scenery  as  well  as  fishing  and  boating. 

READFIELD  (alt.  260,  Readfield  Town,  pop.  88 1),  9.8  m.,  a  hill-top  settlement,  is 
the  birthplace  of  two  Maine  governors,  Jonathan  G.  Hunton  (1781-1851)  and  Dr. 
John  Hubbard  (1794-1869).  Governor  Hubbard  (see  Tour  10)  was  known  as  the 
Father  of  Prohibition,  having  in  1851  signed  Maine's  first  law  prohibiting  the  sale 
and  manufacture  of  intoxicating  liquors  in  any  part  of  the  State. 

The  Kennebec  Agricultural  Society,  formed  here  in  1787,  was  active  for  30  years. 
In  1819  the  society  compiled  statistics  concerning  the  production  of  cider,  the  first 
recorded  compilation  of  agricultural  statistics  in  the  State.  Since  1856  its  fair, 
known  as  Kennebec  County  Fair,  has  been  held  here  annually. 

KENT'S  HILL  (alt.  545,  Readfield  Town),  12.6  m.,  overlooks  Torsey  Pond  and 
the  hills  of  Mount  Vernon. 

The  Maine  Wesley  an  Seminary  (L),  commonly  called  Kent's  Hill,  overlooking  a 
number  of  lakes  in  the  surrounding  valley  is  a  co-educational  preparatory  school, 
founded  in  1824  and  fostered  and  largely  supported  by  the  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church.  As  early  as  1832  women  were  attending  the  seminary;  in  1859  an  act  of 
Legislature  authorized  establishment  of  'a  female  collegiate  Institute.' 

Right  from  Kent's  Hill  on  State  134  is  MOUNT  VERNON  (alt.  335,  Mount 
Vernon  Town,  pop.  755),  20.1w.,  a  lovely  spot  lying  among  hills  and  near  lakes.  Near 
the  village  is  the  Elizabeth  Marbury  House,  now  a  rest  home  for  working  women. 
Elizabeth  Marbury  (1856-1933),  a  play-broker,  was  long  active  in  social,  theatrical, 
and  charitable  affairs.  After  the  World  War  she  was  decorated  by  the  Belgian, 
French,  and  Italian  Governments  for  her  services  during  the  conflict.  In  1925  she 
bought  the  Higgins-Slocum  farm  of  68  acres  and  remodeled  the  house,  furnishing  it 
in  old  New  England  style.  Her  will  dedicated  the  farm  to  its  present  use. 

Not  far  from  Marbury  House  is  Maine  Chance  (visited  only  by  special  permission), 
the  property  of  Elizabeth  Arden,  the  owner  of  beauty  parlors  and  the  manu* 


TOUR  13:   From  Hampden  to  Naples  357 

facturer  of  cosmetics.  She  has  developed  a  resort  open  each  summer  to  women  who 
can  afford  to  pay  for  an  intensive  course  of  physical  training  and  treatment;  the 
place  is  luxurious,  with  gay  cabanas  on  the  shore  of  a  lake,  with  fencing  and  riding 
teachers,  beautiful  flower  gardens,  and  various  recreational  facilities.  Fresh 
vegetables  are  raised  on  the  adjoining  farm. 

At  65.7  m.  (L)  are  the  grounds  of  the  Augusta  Country  Club,  with  a  club- 
house, tennis  courts  and  an  i8-hole  golf  course  (greens  fee  $1,  $1.50,  $2); 
the  latter  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  road. 

At  66.4  m.  (L)  is  the  entrance  to  Island  Park  on  Cobbosseecontee  Lake 
(launch  trips  around  the  lake  25^:  swimming  and  boating  facilities) .  The 
park  was  developed  30  years  ago  as  a  trolley  resort  with  hotel,  outdoor 
theater,  dance  pavilion,  and  picnic  grounds  in  a  pine  grove  at  the  water's 
edge.  Today  there  are  many  summer  homes  on  the  island. 

Lake  Cobbosseecontee  (Ind.:  'place  of  abundant  sturgeon')?  is  a  popular 
summer  and  winter  playground  (see  Sports  and  Recreation).  The  Win- 
throp  Regatta  is  held  here  annually  in  August.  Among  other  islands  in 
the  lake  is  Lady's  Delight,  about  i  mile  from  shore,  where  a  small  light- 
house (1908)  is  kept  lighted  in  summer.  The  lake  is  a  base  for  the  State 
Forestry  and  privately  owned  seaplanes. 

At  68.4  m.  is  a  junction  with  an  unmarked  road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  BAILEYVILLE  (alt.  260,  Winthrop  Town),  1.2  m.,  a  settle- 
ment made  by  members  of  the  Society  of  Friends  in  1780. 

Ezekiel  Bailey,  a  Quaker,  began  the  manufacture  of  oilcloth  by  hand  here  about 
1830.  The  business  expanded  into  several  factories  and  flourished  until  1921  when 
the  oil-soaked  buildings  burned. 

The  Baileys  were  active  members  of  the  Society  of  Friends,  contributing  much  to 
the  Quaker  churches  and  schools  in  the  State,  notably  Oak  Grove  Seminary  (see 
Tour  10).  Regular  services  are  still  held  in  the  Meeting-Hotise  (R). 

At  2  m.  (L),  in  a  pine  grove  on  the  hilly  shore  of  Lake  Cobbosseecontee,  is  a  Young 
Men's  Christian  Association  Camp.  Six  lodges  are  maintained  under  the  auspices  of 
the  State  organization  for  boys  from  8  to  18  years  of  age.  A  leadership  conference 
held  here  annually  in  the  last  week  in  June  is  an  institution  that  originated  in 
Maine  and  has  been  duplicated  in  other  States. 

WINTHROP  (alt.  200,  Winthrop  Town,  pop.  2234),  71  m.,  is  a  compact, 
thriving  settlement  on  low  land  between  Lake  Maranacook  (N)  and  Lake 
Annabessacook  (S).  The  town,  first  settled  in  1765,  was  called  Pondtown 
Plantation,  probably  because  of  the  numerous  bodies  of  water  in  the  area; 
many  lilies  grow  on  the  smaller  lakes. 

Shoes  made  by  hand  in  Winthrop  between  1800  and  1850  were  sent  as  far 
south  as  New  Orleans,  and  were  also  much  in  demand  in  1849-50  among 
the  men  starting  toward  the  California  gold  fields.  Daniel  Noyes  Carr  of 
Newburyport,  Mass.,  came  to  Winthrop  about  1809  and  in  1820  opened 
one  of  the  first  temperance  hotels  in  the  State. 

Oilcloth  and  woolen  mills  employ  the  year-round  residents  of  this  com- 
munity, which  is  in  summer  a  trading  center  for  cottagers  and  campers 
living  near  the  lakes. 

At  the  Bonafide  Mills  (permit  at  office)  (L),  near  the  railroad  tracks,  more 
than  2  million  square  yards  of  felt-base  oilcloth  are  made  annually. 


358  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Right  from  Winthrop  on  State  133  at  6.5  m.  in  WAYNE  (alt.  300,  Wayne  Town, 
pop.  464),  is  (L)  the  Birthplace  of  Annie  Louise  Gary  (1842-1921),  opera  star,  who 
lived  here  until  her  eighth  year.  Her  voice  developed  a  range  running  from  low 
F  to  B  above  the  staff  and  its  purity  was  notable. 

Left  sharply  at  the  Gary  house  on  a  dirt  road  to  Morrison  Heights  (alt.  680),  8.3  m., 
a  picnic  ground  with  a  spectacular  view  over  the  surrounding  countryside.  An 
expanse  of  ledge  on  the  hilltop  furnishes  numerous  natural  fire-places.  Although 
the  elevation  of  this  conical  hill  is  only  about  half  that  of  several  of  the  Kennebec 
County  hills,  the  width  of  the  surrounding  valley  makes  possible  a  panorama. 
Androscoggin  Lake  stands  out  among  the  numerous  bodies  of  water  dotting  the 
landscape.  The  trees  in  this  area  —  birch,  maple,  sumac,  and  evergreen  —  are 
particularly  beautiful  in  autumn. 

At  77  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  tarred  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  Monmouth  Academy,  0.1  m.  (R),  a  large  brick  building  housing 
a  preparatory  school  founded  in  1803. 

MONMOUTH  (alt.  285,  Monmouth  Town,  pop.  1344),  1  m.,  in  the  center  of  the 
Kennebec  County  apple  belt,  is  a  residential  and  commercial  settlement  on  the 
eastern  shore  of  Cochnewagan  Pond. 

The  Town  Hall  (L),  known  as  Cumston  Hall,  an  ornate  cream  and  white  building 
with  minarets  and  other  Turkish  architectural  features,  was  designed  by  Harry 
Cochrane  (1860-  ),  a  local  muralist  and  writer.  Mr.  Cochrane  has  decorated 
many  churches  and  public  buildings  throughout  the  State,  and  written  'The  First 
Crusade,'  a  cantata,  and  'History  of  Monmouth  and  Wales.' 

Lorettus  Sutton  Metcalf  (1837-1920),  managing  editor  of  the  North  American 
Review  and  founder  and  editor  of  Forum,  and  Benjamin  Shaw,  inventor  of  a 
machine  for  knitting  hosiery,  were  natives  of  Monmouth. 

Cochnewagan  Pond  (Ind.:  'the  place  of  praying  Indians,'  or  the  'place  of  battle')  is 
said  to  have  been  the  scene  of  a  battle  between  the  Mohawks  of  eastern  New  York 
and  the  Abnakis.  The  Mohawks  made  periodic  journeys  to  Mt.  Katahdin  for  flint, 
and  in  passing  through  the  section  that  is  now  Monmouth,  they  killed  much  game 
that  the  Abnakis  considered  their  property.  Finally  the  Abnakis  met  the  Mo- 
hawks in  a  sanguinary  battle  near  Cochnewagan  Pond.  No  one  seems  to  know  the 
date  of  the  battle,  but  Indians,  old  when  the  first  settlers  came,  were  fond  of  telling 
of  it. 

Bears  were  troublesome  to  white  settlers  of  the  locality  as  late  as  1810-15,  but  as 
most  of  the  settlers  were  young,  they  not  only  survived  these  and  other  difficulties 
but  managed  to  have  good  times  as  well.  There  are  records  of  corn  huskings  with 
singing,  dancing,  and  refreshments  of  brown  bread,  beans,  and  pumpkin  pie. 

At  79.3  m.  (L),  on  a  hill  from  which  sunsets  are  particularly  beautiful,  is 
Highmoor  Farm  (open),  an  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  conducted 
by  the  University  of  Maine.  The  modern  white  farm  buildings  include  a 
house  and  office  for  the  manager,  several  barns,  and  a  cold  storage  plant 
capable  of  holding  7500  boxes  of  apples.  The  305-acre  tract  is  principally 
given  over  to  an  orchard  with  about  2500  trees.  Some  fields  are  used  for 
experiments  with  corn,  potatoes,  and  other  vegetables. 

The  first  farm  in  the  tract  was  purchased  through  an  Act  of  Legislature  in 
1909  and  according  to  law  it  should  'conduct  investigations  in  orcharding, 
corn  and  other  farm  crops.'  In  1925  an  adjoining  3o-acre  tract  was 
bought  for  a  demonstration  orchard. 

A  national  egg-laying  contest  is  conducted  annually  hi  the  large,  well- 
equipped  Poultry  House  (R).  The  contest,  open  to  poultry  owners  all 
over  the  country,  was  inaugurated  in  1930  and  competitors  usually 


TOUR  13:   From  Hampden  to  Naples  359 

number  about  1000.  In  September,  1936,  a  Rhode  Island  Red,  owned  by 
Phillip  Steele  of  Biddeford  made  the  national  record  for  consecutive  egg- 
laying  with  214  eggs  in  214  days. 

GREENE  (alt.  295,  Greene  Town,  pop.  784),  83.6  m.,  was  named  for 
General  Nathanael  Greene. 

At  89.2  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  tarred  road. 

Right  on  this  road,  which  follows  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Androscoggin  River,  to 
Gulf  Island  Dam,  2  m.  (L).  This  dam,  harnessing  the  Androscoggin  River  for 
hydro-electric  generation  and  distribution,  takes  its  name  from  an  island  that 
originally  divided  the  Androscoggin  at  this  point  into  two  channels,  but  that  now 
forms  a  part  of  the  middle  section  of  the  dam.  The  valuable  power  project  com- 
pleted in  1927  was  built  by  the  Central  Maine  Power  Company  at  a  cost  of  about 
$5,000,000,  and  is  operated  by  the  Union  Water  Company  at  Lewiston. 

The  plant  has  three  turbines  of  9000  horse-power,  each  under  a  head  of  50  feet. 

LEWISTON  (alt.  196,  pop.  34,939)  (see  LEWISTON- AUBURN), 
91.7  m. 

AUBURN  (alt.  210,  pop.  18,571)  (see  LEWISTON -AUBURN),  92.2  m., 
is  at  a  junction  with  State  4  (see  Tour  11). 

At  Auburn  State  11  swings  west  from  US  202. 

MECHANIC  FALLS  (alt.  280,  Mechanic  Falls  Town,  pop.  2033),  102.2 
m.,  is  the  center  of  a  town  with  paper  mills  on  the  Little  Androscoggin 
River.  Paper-making  was  introduced  here  in  1850.  Freeland  O.  Stanley, 
an  inventor,  was  principal  of  the  town's  first  high  school,  and  early  engines 
of  the  Stanley  Steamer,  one  of  the  first  automobiles,  were  built  here. 

Buffalo  Bill,  Kit  Carson,  Jr.,  and  Texas  Jack  gave  marksmanship  exhibi- 
tions in  the  village,  when  it  was  the  seat  of  the  Evans  Rifle  Co. 

An  Indian  Totem,  unearthed  on  the  river  banks  in  this  vicinity,  is  in  the 
Poland  Spring  museum  (see  Tour  14). 

Between  105.3  m.  and  106.2  m.  State  11  and  State  26  are  one  route  (see 
Tour  14). 

TRIPP  LAKE  (alt.  320,  Poland  Town),  107.8  m.,  is  a  popular  summer 
resort  in  a  long  pine  grove  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Lake  Tripp  (bathing, 
boating,  and  picnicking). 

At  109.8  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  is  WEST  POLAND  (alt.  359,  Poland  Town),  0.5  m.,  on  the 
southern  shore  of  Lake  Tripp.  Stores  here  are  patronized  by  several  boys'  and 
girls'  camps  near  the  lake. 

Left  sharply  from  West  Poland  on  a  dirt  road  to  Agassiz  Village  (open),  2.3  m., 
on  a  wooded  hillside  at  the  southern  end  of  Thompson  Lake.  This  large  camp 
for  boys  conducted  on  the  village  plan  by  the  Burroughs  Newsboys  Foundation  of 
Boston,  Mass.,  is  on  property  donated  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Max  Agassiz,  in  memory 
of  Mr.  Agassiz'  grandfather,  Dr.  Louis  Agassiz  (1807-73),  the  scientist. 

At  121.2  m.  is  a  junction  with  US  302  (see  Tour  18).  Between  this  point 
and  Naples,  State  11  and  US  302  are  one  route  (see  Tour  18). 

NAPLES  (alt.  280,  Naples  Town,  pop.  641)  (see  Tour  18),  123  m. 


TOUR     14:     From  PORTLAND  to  NEW  HAMPSHIRE  LINE 
(Errot),  100.3  m.,  State  26. 


Via  Gray,  Sabbathday  Lake  Village,  Poland,  South  Paris,  Bethel,  and  Upton. 

Two-lane  macadamized  roadbed;  in  winter  sometimes  impassable  between 
Bethel  and  Upton. 

BETWEEN  Portland  and  Norway,  State  26  follows  very  closely  the  trail 
blazed  by  trappers  and  Indians  between  Canada  and  Portland;  it  extends 
through  the  beautiful  mountain  and  lake  counties  of  Androscoggin  and 
Oxford,  and  affords  interesting  side  trips  to  historic  villages  in  Maine's 
'back  woods/ 

PORTLAND  (alt.  80,  pop.  70,810)  (see  PORTLAND),  0  m.,  is  at  the 
junction  of  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a),  US  302  (see  Tour  18),  and  State  25 
(see  Tour  19). 

GRAY  (alt.  310,  Gray  Town,  pop.  1189)  (see  Tour  11),  17.4  m.,  is  at  a 
junction  with  State  4  (see  Tour  11). 

State  26  swings  left  at  Gray. 

DRY  MILLS  (alt.  300,  Gray  Town),  20.5  m. 

Right  from  Dry  Mills  on  a  gravel  road  to  the  Dry  Mills  Fish  Hatchery  (open),  1  m., 
a  State-operated  brook-trout  hatching  plant,  the  largest  in  Maine.  Water  supply 
and  water  temperatures  are  the  most  important  factors  in  raising  fish,  and  the 
supply  at  Dry  Mills,  said  to  be  the  finest  for  the  purpose  found  in  Maine,  main- 
tains a  remarkably  even  temperature.  Nearly  all  the  brook  trout  used  for  restock- 
ing in  the  southern  half  of  Maine,  and  breeders  sent  to  other  sections  of  the  State 
and  to  9ther  States,  are  produced  at  this  hatchery.  Fifteen  million  eggs,  with  less 
than  eight  per  cent  loss  in  hatched  trout,  were  produced  here  in  1936. 

Adjoining  the  hatchery  is  the  State  of  Maine  Game  Farm  (open},  the  only  farm  of 
this  type  in  the  State,  comprising  130  acres  of  land  on  a  high  hill;  here  ring-necked 
pheasants  are  bred  for  release  throughout  the  State  as  game  birds,  open  seasons 
on  which  are  to  be  designated.  More  than  4000  birds  are  reared  each  year,  and 
10,000  eggs  are  annually  distributed  to  persons  interested  in  raising  pheasants. 
Other  types  of  pheasants  less  suited  to  the  Maine  climate  are  being  bred  experi- 
mentally; various  types  of  native  animals  and  birds  are  on  exhibition. 

SABBATHDAY  LAKE  VILLAGE  (alt.  300,  New  Gloucester  Town, 
pop.  1866),  25.3  m.t  is  one  of  the  few  remaining  Shaker  settlements  in  the 
country.  The  central  brick  building  serves  as  dormitory,  living  quarters, 
and  dining-hall,  with  a  chapel  in  one  wing.  There  are  several  large  barns 
and  a  number  of  small  workshops.  The  colony,  established  in  1793,  de- 
clined in  numbers  during  the  last  half  of  the  igth  century;  in  1931  the  re- 
maining members  of  the  Shaker  colony  at  Alfred  (see  Tour  11)  joined  the 
colony  here.  This  small  community  adheres  to  the  tenets  of  the  faith  and 
engages  in  farming  and  small  industries  such  as  woodworking,  preserving, 
and  needlecraft. 
The  Shakers,  members  of  the  United  Society  of  Believers  in  Christ's 


TOUR  14:   From  Portland  to  Errol  361 

Second  Appearing,  originated  in  England  around  the  middle  of  the  i8th 
century  when  a  group  of  spiritualists  and  Quakers  formed  a  society  called 
the  New  Lights.  'Mother'  Ann  Lee,  a  leader  of  the  movement,  came  to 
America  in  1774  after  suffering  much  persecution  in  England.  With  a  few 
believers,  she  established  a  colony  near  Albany,  N.Y.,  and  in  1793  colonies 
were  organized  in  Maine  at  this  place  and  at  Alfred. 
Originally  called  the  Shaking  Quakers  because  of  their  dancing  move- 
ments during  religious  services,  the  Shakers  have  met  little  understanding. 
Their  principles  include  the  practices  of  religious  and  economic  commu- 
nism, purification  of  sin  by  confession,  some  practice  of  spiritualism,  prac- 
tice of  complete  celibacy,  and  the  Quaker  opposition  to  war  and  violence. 
The  Shakers  interpret  the  Divine  Spirit  as  of  dual  nature,  male  and  female. 
They  believe  that  Christ  represented  the  male  principle,  and  that  'Mo- 
ther '  Lee,  the  female  principle,  manifested  the  second  coming  of  Christ. 

Men  and  women  share  equally  in  the  work,  offices,  possessions,  and 
religious  practices  of  the  colony.  New  members,  now  rare,  turn  over  all 
they  possess  upon  entering  the  society,  and  this,  as  well  as  all  property 
descending  by  inheritance,  belongs  to  the  community  as  a  whole.  Married 
converts  must  separate  themselves  from  their  mates.  In  the  past  orphans 
were  often  adopted  by  the  society  and  educated  in  its  beliefs.  The  reli- 
gious meetings  are  marked  by  singing  and  dancing,  for  which  the  Shakers 
find  justification  in  the  Scriptures.  The  dancing  is  not  as  frenzied  as 
formerly,  the  '  shaking '  being  confined  principally  to  marching  with  sway- 
ing bodies,  and  to  a  slight  waving  of  hands.  By  means  of  the  latter,  the 
Shakers  believe  they  shake  out  sin.  Goodness  is  received  from  above  on 
upturned  palms. 

The  men  wear  long  clerical  coats  and  broad  felt  hats;  the  women,  very  full 
skirts  and  tight  bodices  of  gray  wool;  sometimes  the  women  also  wear 
wide  collars  of  the  kind  used  in  the  i7th  century. 

Formerly  a  variety  of  woolen  and  wooden  articles  were  manufactured  and 
sold  by  the  colonists,  as  well  as  fine  basketry;  most  of  the  packing  cases  for 
Poland  Spring  water  were  made  here.  Today  chocolate  candy,  preserves, 
jellies,  and  needlework  are  sold  to  visitors. 

From  the  top  of  Shaker  Hill,  26.7  m.,  is  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding 
country.  The  bleak  four-story,  square  Stone  Building  (R)  was  once  a 
Shaker  community  house.  Near-by  is  (L)  the  old  Shaker  Meeting-House. 

Poland  Spring,  28.6  m.,  is  little  but  a  cluster  of  hotels  and  the  homes 
of  those  employed  in  them.  In  1794,  Jabez  Ricker  of  Alfred  secured 
land  here  from  the  Shakers  of  the  Sabbathday  Lake  colony  and  estab- 
lished a  home;  two  days  after  the  Ricker  family  arrived,  two  trav- 
elers stopped  at  their  door,  asking  for  breakfast.  This  was  the  begin- 
ning of  Jabez  Ricker's  career  as  an  innkeeper.  So  many  travelers  con- 
tinued to  stop,  asking  for  accommodations,  that  in  1 796  Jabez  and  Went- 
worth  Ricker  opened  the  Mansion  House.  Near-by  was  a  large  spring  of 
unusually  fine  water  that  had  some  local  fame,  but  was  not  credited  with 
unusual  virtues  until  the  summer  of  1844,  when  Hiram,  a  grandson  of 


362  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Jabez  Ricker,  drank  copiously  of  the  water  while  he  was  haying  and  in- 
sisted that  it  had  cured  him  of  a  chronic  dyspepsia.  The  guests  of  the 
hotel,  which  was  by  this  time  something  of  a  summer  resort,  also  sampled 
the  waters  and  reported  so  enthusiastically  on  its  effects  that  the  hotel 
owners  began  to  see  the  possibilities  of  commercial  exploitation,  this  being 
the  period  in  which  the  fashionable  world  of  Europe  and  America  was 
resorting  to  'waters'  for  all  ailments  of  the  flesh.  Poland  Water  is  one  of 
the  few  bottled  waters  that  has  continued  to  maintain  a  popularity. 

The  present  Mansion  House  and  the  large  Poland  Spring  House  stand  on 
the  top  of  Ricker  Hill  (alt.  580),  from  which  is  a  wide-spreading  view  of 
hills  and  lakes  particularly  beautiful  at  sunset.  A  part  of  the  original 
Mansion  House  is  incorporated  in  the  present  sprawling  structure.  Near 
the  hotel  is  the  State  of  Maine  Building,  erected  in  1893  on  the  grounds  of 
the  Chicago  World's  Fair,  and  later  brought  here;  in  it  are  a  library  and, 
at  intervals,  exhibitions  of  paintings  and  other  objects. 

At  29.4  m.  (L)  is  Middle  Range  Pond,  the  center  of  a  group  of  five  ponds, 
where  is  excellent  fishing  (boating  and  bathing  facilities  on  eastern  shore). 

POLAND  (alt.  310,  Poland  Town,  pop.  1503),  31.2  m.,  is  in  a  town  that  is 
noted  for  its  mineral  springs;  it  spreads  over  seven  prominent  hills. 

Between  32.2  m.  and  33.1  m.  State  26  is  united  with  State  11  (see  Tour 
13). 

At  38.8  m.  (L)  is  the  Center  Meeting-House,  a  plain  structure  serving  both 
as  an  interdenominational  church  and  as  a  town  hall. 

Near  the  Meeting-House  is  a  junction  with  State  121. 

Left  on  State  121 ,  which  crosses  an  old  covered  bridge  over  the  Little  Andros- 
coggin  River,  to  OXFORD  VILLAGE  (alt.  248,  Oxford  Town,  pop.  1125),  1.5  m. 
The  first  settlement  here  on  the  northern  shore  of  Thompson  Lake  was  made  in 
1794.  The  Woolen  Mill  built  in  early  days  is  still  in  operation.  Near-by  and 
directly  opposite  the  post  office  is  an  old  dwelling  (R),  long  known  as  Craigie's 
Tavern.  During  stagecoach  days,  this  was  the  village  inn,  famed  as  having  the 
finest  bar  in  a  large  area. 

At  45  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  117. 

Left  on  State  117  is  NORWAY  (alt.  387,  Norway  Town,  pop.  3145),  0.5  m.,  on  the 
southern  end  of  Lake  Pennesseewassee,  a  manufacturing  center  for  shoes,  snow- 
shoes,  skis,  sleds,  moccasins,  and  totem  poles.  In  summer  the  large  colony  on  the 
southern  sHore  of  the  lake  is  a  place  of  much  colorful  social  activity.  The  town  has 
had  a  brilliant  military  history  since  the  first  regimental  muster  of  Oxford  County 
was  held  here;  three  Norway  companies  were  sent  to  the  War  of  1812,  one  to  the 
Aroostook  War,  eight  to  the  Civil  War,  one  to  the  Spanish-American  and  one  to  the 
World  War.  Major  General  George  L.  Beal  and  General  Benjamin  B.  Murray  of 
Norway  served  in  the  Civil  War. 

In  the  center  of  the  village  is  the  Weary  Club  (R),  founded  by  Fred  W.  Sanborn, 
editor  and  proprietor  of  the  Norway  Advertiser-Democrat.  The  club  is  designed  to 
take  the  place  of  the  now  vanishing  old-fashioned  general  store  where  village 
philosophers  could  gather  by  the  cracker  barrel,  to  practice  their  arm  with  'ta- 
baccy'  juice  and  whittle  the  hours  away.  The  Weary  Club  today  is  a  glorification 
of  the  old  country  store,  even  to  the  pot-bellied  stove  and  the  cracker  barrel. 
Members  are  supplied  with  pungent  cedar  sticks  for  whittling. 

Beyond  the  club  is  the  Norway  Advertiser-Democrat  Office  (L),  where  the  humorist, 
Artemus  Ward  (see  below) ,  learned  the  printer's  trade.  Hannibal  Hamlin  (see  below) 
was  as  a  lad  a  chore-boy  in  the  same  office. 


TOUR  14:   From  Portland  to  Errol  363 

Directly  opposite  the  Advertiser  office  is  the  former  Home  of  Syhanus  Cobb,  Jr., 
author  of  'The  Gunmaker  of  Moscow'  and  many  novelettes  and  short  stories;  it  is 
now  a  filling  station. 

Among  authors  who  live  or  have  lived  in  Norway  are  Charles  Asbury  Stephens, 
writer  of  juvenile  fiction;  the  later  Don  C.  Seitz,  former  editor  of  the  New  York 
World',  and  Hugh  Pendexter,  author  of  many  historical  novels,  who  first  came  to 
Norway  as  a  school  teacher. 

Mellie  Dunham,  who  was  selected  by  Henry  Ford  as  the  champion  old-time  fiddler, 
was  a  native  of  Norway;  here  he  made  the  snowshoes  used  by  Robert  E.  Peary  on 
his  trip  to  the  North  Pole. 

Left  from  the  Norway  Advertiser  office,  about  1  m.  on  a  local  road,  to  Pike's 
Hill  (alt.  870),  overlooking  Lake  Pennesseewassee  (alt.  398).  Outstanding 
among  the  115  peaks  in  seven  ranges  visiblelby  telescope  from  Pike's  Hill  are 
Old  Spec,  Mt.  Washington,  and  Mt.  Osceola. 

At  2.6  m.  on  State  117  is  a  junction  with  State  118.  Right  here  on  State  118; 
at  7.7  m.  the  route  swings  left  from  State  118  to  an  unnumbered,  improved  road. 

WATERFORD  (alt.  400,  Waterford  Town,  pop.  743),  11.3  m.  The  third  house 
(L)  beyond  the  post  office  is  the  Former  Home  of  Artemus  Ward.  The  earliest 
Yankee  humorist  in  the  State  was  Seba  Smith,  born  in  Buckfield;  John  Neal  of 
Portland  had  some  laughter  in  his  soul;  and  'Bill  Nye'  of  Shirley  was  a  later  fun- 
maker;  but  the  one  who  earned  the  widest  and  most  lasting  fame  was  Charles  F. 
Browne,  best  known  as  Artemus  Ward  (1834-67). 

One  of  his  letters  tells  this  of  himself:  'I  was  born  in  the  State  of  Maine  of  parents. 
As  an  infant  I  abstracted  a  great  deal  of  attention.  The  nabers  would  stand  over 
my  cradle  for  hours  and  say,  "How  bright  that  little  face  looks!  How  much  it 
nose!"? 

After  his  father's  death,  he  learned  the  printer's  trade,  became  a  wandering 
printer  and  did  some  writing.  Later  he  became  known  for  his  wit  and  humor  in 
debating.  He  began  writing  as  Artemus  Ward  in  1858.  His  letters  attained  im- 
mediate popularity  and  in  1860  he  became  editor  of  Vanity  Fair.  After  its  failure, 
he  devoted  the  rest  of  his  short  life  to  lecturing.  He  died  in  Southhampton,  Eng- 
land, of  tuberculosis. 

His  first  letter  read  thus: 

The  Plane  Dealer 

Pitsburg,  Jan.  27, 

1858 
Sir: 

i  write  to  no  how  about  the  show  bisnes  in  Cleveland  i  have  a  show  con- 
sisting in  part  of  a  Calforny  Bare  two  snakes  tame  foxies  &  also  wax  woks 
my  wax  works  is  hard  to  beat,  all  say  they  is  life  and  natural  curiosities 
among  my  wax  works  is  our  Saveyer  Gen.  Taylor  and  Dockter  Webster  in 
the  ackt  of  killing  Parkman.  now  Mr.  Editor  scratch  off  a  few  lines  and  tel 
me  how  is  the  show  bisnes  in  your  good  city  i  shal  have  hanbils  printed  at 
your  ofns  you  scratch  my  back  and  i  will  scratch  your  back,  also  git  up  a 
grate  blow  in  the  paper  about  my  show  don't  forgit  the  wax  works. 

Yours  truly 

ARTEMUS  WARD 

Pitsburg  Penny, 
ps  pitsburg  is  a  i  horse  town.  A.W. 

SOUTH  PARIS  fait.  385,  Paris  Town),  46.6  m.,  extends  south  from  the 
business  square  on  both  sides  of  State  26.  Here  large-scale  manufacturing 
of  wood  novelties  is  carried  on;  the  Mason  Manufacturing  Company 


364  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Factory  is  one  of  the  largest  establishments  in  the  world  exclusively  de- 
voted to  making  children's  toys. 

At  48  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  improved  road. 

Right  on  this  road  is  PARIS  HILL  (alt.  803,  Paris  Town,  pop.  3761),  1.5  *».,  the 
earliest  residential  section  of  the  township.  Today  it  has  a  group  of  beautiful  old 
homes. 

In  Courthouse  Square  is  (L)  the  Old  Stone  Jail  (1828),  a  thick- walled  stone  building 
with  monitor  roof  built  as  the  Oxford  County  jail.  Its  use  as  a  jail  was  discontinued 
in  1895  and  it  has  since  been  converted  into  the  Hamlin  Memorial  Library.  With 
the  exception  of  changes  in  the  roof  and  the  removal  of  cells  from  the  interior,  the 
building  is  in  its  original  form.  The  heavy  iron  entrance  door,  grated  windows,  and 
small  low  door  of  the  '  solitary'  cell  with  its  tremendous  iron  key,  pique  the  imagina- 
tion. There  are  many  local  tales  of  early  imprisonment  and  romantic  escape  from 
this  building  whose  grim  walls  are  now  softened  by  trailing  ivy. 

Beyond  the  jail  is  the  Birthplace  of  Hannibal  Hamlin  (1809-91),  Maine's  23d 
governor,  a  U.S.  Senator,  and  Vice-President  of  the  United  States  under  Abraham 
Lincoln.  The  house  has  been  remodeled  as  a  summer  residence. 

Lyonsden  (private),  Main  St.  at  Tremont  St.  (L),  built  in  1808,  was  the  home  of 
the  late  Rear  Admiral  Henry  W.  Lyon,  commander  of  the  dispatch  boat '  Dolphio  '• 
in  the  Spanish-American  conflict;  it  is  now  the  home  of  his  son,  Captain  Harry 
Lyon,  the  navigation  officer  in  1929  on  the  airplane  'Southern  Cross'  when  it  made 
the  first  trans-Pacific  flight  from  California  to  Australia.  The  house  takes  its  name 
in  part  from  the  lion's  head  decoration  over  the  door,  the  figurehead  of  the  'Nip- 
sic,'  first  vessel  commanded  by  the  Admiral. 

Directly  across  from  Lyonsden  is  the  Baptist  Church  (1803),  a  fine  example  of 
Greek  Revival  architecture.  It  has  no  spire  and  much  of  the  interior  has  been 
altered. 

The  Carter  House  (private),  Main  St.  (R),  built  in  1787  and  the  first  frame  house 
erected  in  Paris,  is  a  one-and-a-half-story  building  considerably  altered  from  its 
original  form  by  the  addition  of  dormer  windows  and  a  Greek  Revival  entrance. 

Just  beyond  the  Carter  House  is  Old  Brick  (private),  a  flat-roofed,  three-story  brick 
building  with  a  fan-lighted  door,  at  one  time  occupied  by  General  William  Kim- 
ball,  prominent  in  the  Civil  War,  and  later  by  his  son,  Rear  Admiral  William  W. 
Kimball  who  took  command  of  the  first  torpedo  boat  flotilla  in  the  Spanish-Amer- 
ican War.  John  P.  Holland,  inventor  of  the  submarine,  assured  Kimball  that  the 
submarine  was  'a  subject  that  you  must  have  credit  for  putting  into  practical 
shape  and  introducing.' 

The  Hubbard  House  (L),  a  three-story  structure,  built  in  1806,  with  flat  roof  and 
cupola,  was  formerly  a  private  residence.  It  is  now  an  inn. 

Right  from  Main  St.  about  3.5  m.  on  a  dirt  road  to  Mount  Mica  which  has  the  most 
notable  pegmatite  exposures  in  the  State.  The  mine  has  been  the  chief  source  of 
tourmalines  (see  The  Nation's  Northeast  Corner). 

Snow  Falls,  52.8  m.  (L),  has  a  drop  of  40  feet  to  the  gorge  of  the  Little 
Androscoggin  River.  The  foundation  of  an  old  mill  is  visible  on  the  op- 
posite bank. 

At  55  m.  (R)  is  the  Maine  Mineral  Store,  a  museum  of  Maine  gems, 
particularly  those  of  the  immediate  area,  and  a  souvenir  salesroom.  On 
display  are  beryl  and  tourmaline  crystals  in  their  original  state,  and 
lepidolite,  one  of  a  species  of  mica  that  indicates  likely  areas  for  gem 
tourmalines. 

Near  the  store  is  a  junction  with  State  140. 

Left  on  State  140  is  the  village  of  WEST  PARIS  (alt.  486,  Paris  Town),  1  m. 


TOUR  14:   From  Portland  to  Errol  365 

Feldspar,  chiefly  from  the  Bumpus  Mine  in  Albany,  is  milled  here  before  being 
shipped  to  potteries  out  of  the  State.  There  are  also  a  spool  mill,  and  manu- 
factories of  wood  novelties,  including  snowshoes  and  a  great  variety  of  toys. 

BRYANT  POND  (alt.  720,  Woodstock  Town,  pop.  848),  62.5  m.  Near 
the  inn  on  the  southern  shore  of  the  pond  is  a  small  Mink  Farm. 

At  65.8  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  gravel  road. 

Left  on  this  road,  which  follows  the  western  shores  of  a  series  of  lakes,  to  the 
Greenwood  Ice  Caves ,  3  m.  (L).  Several  hundred  years  ago  landslides  broke  away 
huge  boulders  and  piled  them  up  in  such  a  fashion  as  to  form  large  caverns,  one  of 
which,  called  the  Cathedral,  is  30  feet  in  diameter  and  retains  winter  ice  in  its  in- 
terior as  late  as  July. 

LOCKE'S  MILLS  (alt.  763,  Greenwood  Town,  pop.  548),  66.3  m.,  is  in  a 
township  that  was  the  birthplace  of  Atherton  Furlong,  lyric  tenor,  author, 
and  artist,  some  of  whose  pictures  are  in  the  Metropolitan  Museum  in 
New  York  City;  he  taught  music  to  Annie  Louise  Gary  (see  Tour  13)  and 
Lillian  Nordica  (see  Tour  11). 

BETHEL  (alt.  700,  Bethel  Town,  pop.  2025)  (see  Tour  4),  71.5  m.,  is  at  a 
junction  with  US  2  (see  Tour  4)  and  State  5  (see  Tour  15).  Between  this 
point  and  Newry,  State  29  and  US  2  are  united. 

NEWRY  (alt.  630,  Newry  Town,  pop.  188)  (see  Tour  4),  78  m.,  is  at  a 
junction  with  US  2  (see  Tour  4). 

NORTH  NEWRY  (alt.  675,  Newry  Town),  82.9  m.,  in  an  agricultural 
area  in  which  feldspar  is  occasionally  mined,  is  popular  for  its  excellent 
fishing  and  hunting.  Poplar  Tavern  (R),  in  operation  for  more  than  100 
years,  was  built  in  such  manner  that  the  rear  abutted  a  ledge,  affording 
rear  ground-floor  entrances  to  the  second  and  third  stories.  The  second- 
story  porch  affords  a  view  of  the  dark  bulk  of  Old  Spec  Mountain  (L)  and 
Puzzle  Mountain  (R). 

In  the  woods  near-by  is  Diana  Pool  (bathing}.  The  old  tavern  was  a 
popular  vacation  resort  in  the  gay  nineties. 

At  87.4  m.  (L)  are  Screw  Auger  Falls,  where  the  swirling  waters  of  Bear 
River  have  worn  holes  from  6  inches  to  25  feet  in  depth  in  the  solid  rock  of 
the  river-bed;  the  holes  look  as  though  they  had  been  made  with  an  auger. 
The  shallower  holes  in  some  instances  have  small  waterfall  showers  of 
their  own.  The  near-by  ledges  are  attractive  spots  for  picnics. 

Farther  along  (R)  is  the  Old  Jail,  a  hole  75  feet  deep  and  about  25  feet 
across,  which  affords  fun  and  exercise  for  those  who  are  ambitious  enough 
to  crawl  down  and  climb  up  through  to  ' escape  jail.',,  ^  ^ 

At  89.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  path. 

Right  on  the  path  for  a  5-minute  walk  into  the  woods  to  a  deep  gorge  on  Bear 
River;  here  is  Moose  Cave,  where  broken  pieces  of  rock  have  fallen  from  the  slope  of 
Bald  Mountain  into  the  river  and  formed  a  cave,  cold  even  in  the  hottest  days. 
Upward  from  this  point  are  cliffs  cut  bare  by  landslides. 

Grafton  Notch,  90.1  m.,  is  formed  by  Old  Spec  Mountain  (alt.  4150)  and 
Bald  Mountain  (alt.  3996).  On  Old  Spec  is  the  highest  lookout  station  in 
the  State. 


366  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

At  91.2  m.  (L)  is  a  junction  with  the  Mahoosuc  Trail,  part  of  the  Ap- 
palachian Club  system  of  trails  (see  Sports  and  Recreation:  Hiking  and 
Mountain  Climbing). 

UPTON  (alt.  1722,  Upton  Town,  pop.  166),  99  m.,  overlooks  Umbagog 
Lake,  the  source  of  the  Androscoggin  River,  which  drains  the  Rangeley 
Lakes  region.  Camps  for  sportsmen  provide  facilities  for  boating,  canoe- 
ing, riding,  fishing,  and  hunting  (registered  guides) . 

At  100.3  m.  State  26  crosses  the  New  Hampshire  Line,  8.7  miles  southeast 
of  Errol,  N.H. 


TOUR      15:    From  SACO  to  BETHEL,  102.9  m.,    State  5. 


Via  Waterboro  Center,  Limerick,  Fryeburg  and  Lovell. 

Two-lane  bituminous  roadbed;  gravel  roadbed  north  of  Lynch ville. 

THIS  route  passes  through  a  charming  area  of  lakes  banked  by  high  hills. 
Between  Fryeburg  and  Bethel  the  road  skirts  the  eastern  boundary  of  the 
White  Mountain  National  Forest. 

SACO  (alt.  60,  pop.  7244)  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a),  0  m.,  is  at  the  junction  of 
US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a)  and  State  9  (see  Tour  1C). 

At  16.7  m.  is  a  junction  (R)  with  State  4  (see  Tour  11)  with  which  this 
route  unites  for  about  i  mile. 

WATERBORO  CENTER  (alt.  285,  Waterboro  Town,  pop.  914),  20.7  m., 
is  a  cross-roads  with  a  scattering  of  stores  and  houses.  Near-by  Little 
Ossipee  Lake  (N)  is  a  center  of  attraction  for  campers. 

1.  Right  from  Waterboro  Center  on  a  gravel  road  to  the  lakeside  North  Star  Camp, 
2.5  m.,  maintained  by  the  Portland  Young  Men's  Christian  Association. 

2.  Left  from  Waterboro  Center  on  an  improved  road  to  a  Lookout  Station  and 
Camp  Site,  2  m.,  on  Ossipee  Mountain  (alt.  1050).    A  ski- trail  built  down  the 
mountain-side  by  the  Hockomock  Ski  Club  was  the  scene  of  the  Maine  Inter- 
scholastic  Ski  Meet  in  1935. 

LIMERICK  (alt.  535,  Limerick  Town,  pop.  1199),  29.8  m.,  settled  in 
1775,  was  on  the  old  Pequawket  Trail,  used  by  the  Sokoki  Indians 
traveling  from  the  Saco  River  to  their  principal  village  at  Pequawket, 
now  Fryeburg  (see  below). 

The  first  town  meeting  was  held  in  1787  in  McDonald  Inn  (L),  a  three- 
story  structure  still  catering  to  travelers.  Some  of  the  rooms  in  the  inn  are 
wainscoted  with  knotless  pine,  while  the  walls  of  others  are  painted  with 
land  and  seascapes  created  by  some  unknown  artist  long  ago.  The  door 
and  window  trim  is  hand  hewn. 


TOUR  15:   From  Saco  to  Bethel  367 

CORNISH  (alt.  347,  Cornish  Town,  pop.  753),  40.1  m.  A  deed  at  Kittery 
dated  November  28,  1668,  records  the  sale  of  territory  including  Cornish 
between  the  Great  and  Little  Ossipee  Rivers  for  such  considerations  as 
rum,  blankets,  and  beads.  The  town  —  originally  called  Francisboro  for 
the  Indian  trader,  Francis  Small  of  Kittery,  who  purchased  the  land  from 
the  Indian  sagamore,  Captain  Sunday  —  is  one  of  five  townships  included 
in  the  sale.  After  transfer  of  the  property  was  confirmed  by  the  General 
Court  of  Massachusetts,  the  first  white  settlement  was  made  in  1776. 

Here  is  a  junction  with  State  25  (see  Tour  19),  following  the  old  Pequawket 
Indian  Trail.  The  bridge  across  the  Saco  River  at  this  point  makes  a 
perfect  half-circle  and  is  banked  to  allow  for  the  curve. 

At  42.6  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  113. 

Right  on  State  113  to  the  Richard  Fitch  Tavern,  1  m.  (L),  built  about  1780  and  now 
a  private  residence  owned  by  descendants  of  Fitch.  The  tavern  was  the  center  of 
all  local  gatherings  in  the  early  days.  The  militia  in  every-day  homespun  and  their 
officers  in  uniform  assembled  here  under  Captain  Edward  Small,  to  train  and  later 
to  start  their  night's  march  to  general  muster  at  Raymond  during  the  War  of  1812. 
Just  beyond  is  a  dirt  road  (L)  leading  to  the  Pierce  Place,  a  large,  well-preserved 
square  house  with  mansard  roof  built  in  1787  by  Josiah  Pierce,  an  ancestor  of  the 
present  owner.  A  fireplace  is  in  each  of  the  eight  rooms  which  contain  many  old 
furnishings  collected  locally  and  abroad. 

At  3  m.  (L),  deep  in  a  field  on  the  Sanborn  farm  (ask  at  farmhouse  for  explicit 
directions)  is  a  mammoth  white  Pine  Tree.  From  its  base,  10  feet  in  diameter,  the 
dark  ridged  trunk  tapers  gradually,  to  a  height  of  approximately  120  feet.  Bluish- 
green  branches  thickly  hung  with  clusters  of  long  cylindrical  cones  form  a  broad 
irregular  head  on  the  lofty  old  tree. 

In  WEST  BALDWIN  (alt.  377,  Baldwin  Town,  pop.  694),  43.6  m.,  the 
largest  settlement  of  the  township,  is  the  Burnell House  (private),  near  the 
center  of  the  village,  a  large  home  erected  in  1737.  Typical  of  the  period 
in  which  it  was  built  are  the  windows  with  six  lower  and  nine  upper  panes. 
At  45.4  m.  (L)  a  small  picnic  ground  provides  convenient  parking  space 
for  viewing  Hiram  Falls,  one  of  the  attractions  of  this  region.  During  the 
spring  floods  the  falls  are  nearly  obscured  by  a  wall  of  foam. 

HIRAM  (alt.  382,  Hiram  Town,  pop.  814),  47.9  m.,  named  for  Hiram, 
King  of  Tyre,  was  settled  in  1774  by  Gen.  Peleg  Wadsworth,  grand- 
father of  the  poet  Longfellow  (see  PORTLAND). 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  several  years  after  his  grad- 
uation from  Harvard,  Peleg  Wadsworth  recruited  a  company  at  Kingston, 
Mass.,  and  received  a  captain's  commission,  which  was  followed  in  1778  by 
his  appointment  as  Adjutant  General  of  the  Massachusetts  militia.  In  the 
next  two  years  he  rose  rapidly  from  being  second  in  command  in  the  at- 
tack on  Castine  to  the  post  of  commanding  officer  in  the  defense  of  the 
coast  of  Maine.  While  making  his  headquarters  in  Thomaston  he  was 
wounded  by  the  British  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b)  and  carried  captive  to  Castine, 
whence  he  escaped.  After  the  Revolution,  General  Wadsworth  purchased 
15,000  acres  of  forest  land  at  13^  an  acre  in  what  was  known  as  the  Hiram 
or  Wadsworth  Grant. 

Left  from  Hiram  on  a  dirt  road  to  Wadsworth  Hall  (open;  adm.  25 ff),  1  m.,  a  large 


368  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

two-and-a-half -story  frame  building  with  long  ell,  built  in  1787  for  the  use  of 
General  Wadsworth's  lumbermen.  The  General  soon  found  it  so  much  to  his  liking 
that  he  moved  his  family  here.  The  house  with  its  unusually  high  first  story,  was 
little  changed  by  remodeling  in  1875.  The  second  floor  rooms  are  paneled  in  white 
pine  with  bead  and  beveled  joints  and  time  has  darkened  the  wood  almost  to  the 
color  of  mahogany.  One  of  the  chambers  has  been  preserved  as  it  was  when  used  by 
Longfellow.  The  hall  in  which  the  militia  drilled  during  the  War  of  1812  was 
utilized  as  the  first  school  and  meeting-house  in  Hiram,  and  the  first  deed  of  the 
land,  dated  March  9,  1787,  hangs  here. 


Among  the  other  furnishings  of  the  house  are  the  general's  desk,  containing  many  of 
his  semi-official  documents,  a  braided  rug  made  by  his  daughter,  one  of  a  pair  of 
candlesticks  given  to  General  Wadsworth  by  General  Lafayette,  and  an  old  fire  set. 

Spring's  Tavern,  49.7  m.  (L),  an  inn  of  Colonial  days  that  is  a  tourist 
home,  was  built  in  1796  by  Captain  Thomas  H.  Spring.  Stagecoaches, 
traveling  along  the  post  road  between  Fryeburg  and  Portland,  used  to 
stop  here  for  a  change  of  horses  while  passengers  and  driver  refreshed 
themselves  in  the  tavern  taproom. 

EAST  BROWNFIELD  (alt.  399,  Brownfield  Town),  55.1  m.,  is  a  small 
commercial  center  on  the  Mountain  Division  of  the  Maine  Central  R.R. 

Left  from  East  Brownfield,  on  State  160,  which  follows  Shepards  River,  is  the 
village  of  BROWNFIELD  (alt.  426,  Brownfield  Town,  pop.  688),  2  w.,  an  old- 
time  community  little  touched  by  modern  traffic  and  20th-century  progress.  Tall, 
graceful  elms  shade  lovely  old  houses. 

At  57  m.  is  a  fine  view  of  Old  Spec,  Bear  River  Bald,  Goose  Eye,  and 
North  Peak  Mountains. 

FRYEBURG  (alt.  429,  Fryeburg  Town,  pop.  1582),  62.6  m.,  a  prosperous 
summer  resort  that  is  the  oldest  town  in  Oxford  County,  lies  on  a  plain  in 
the  Saco  River  Valley.  Wide,  tree-arched  streets  and  large  well-kept 
residences  characterize  the  village,  once  an  Indian  settlement  known  as 
Pequawket,  said  to  have  been  visited  by  John  Smith  in  1614. 

Pequawket  was  the  home  of  Nescambiou,  the  only  Indian  knighted  by 
the  French.  Nescambiou  became  identified  with  the  French  Colonial 
Army  under  General  Iberville  during  the  siege  of  Fort  St.  John  in  1695. 
His  leadership  and  fighting  qualities  and  the  desire  of  the  French  for  an 
alliance  with  the  Indians  against  the  English,  gained  him  an  invitation 
to  France  in  1705,  where  King  Louis  XIV  conferred  a  knighthood  upon 
him.  He  returned  to  America  a  year  later. 

At  the  Registry  of  Deeds,  in  a  small  brick  building  (R),  are  copies  of  deeds 
in  the  handwriting  of  Daniel  Webster,  the  orator  and  statesman,  who  was 
employed  here  in  1802  while  he  was  preceptor  of  Fryeburg  Academy. 
It  has  been  said  that  at  the  time,  Webster  gave  little  promise  of  the  re- 
markable career  he  was  later  to  make  for  himself.  He  attended  church 
with  great  regularity,  was  not  averse  to  a  draft  of  rum,  and  took  evident 
pleasure  in  attending  village  dances,  at  which  he  earned  a  reputation  for 
gallantry,  rather  than  grace. 

Several  of  his  letters  written  from  Fryeburg  shed  light  on  his  life  in  this 
town.  '  Nothing  here  is  unpleasant,'  he  wrote  in  one,  '  there  is  a  pretty 
little  society;  people  treat  me  with  kindness  and  I  have  the  fortune  to  find 


TOUR  15:   From  Saco  to  Bethel  369 

myself  in  a  very  good  family.  I  see  little  female  company,  but  that  is  an 
item  with  which  I  can  conveniently  enough  dispense.' 

Webster  resumed  the  study  of  law  after  leaving  Fryeburg  Academy.  His 
first  case  before  a  court  was  in  defense  of  the  Widow  Amhead  who  had 
been  sued  by  John  Moss  for  $15,  the  price  of  a  heifer  she  bought  from  him. 
Webster  was  obliged  to  plead  the  case  before  his  own  father,  Judge 
Ebenezer  Webster,  and  becoming  completely  confused,  he  closed  his  case 
by  addressing  the  court: 

'Your  Honor,  I  never  should  have  taken  this  case.  Only  a  good  lawyer 
could  have  won  it.  My  client  owes  the  $15,  but  I  shall  pay  the  $15  myself 
because  I've  failed  the  poor  woman.  The  poor  woman  has  toiled  as  no 
man  in  our  hard  working  community  has  toiled.  I'll  pay  it  because  it  is 
unendurable  that  any  woman  should  struggle  as  Mrs.  Amhead  has 
struggled  and  go  down  defeated  by  a  mean  man's  cupidity.' 

Moss  shouted,  'Dang  it!  I  don't  want  the  money.  All  I  want  is  an  ad- 
mission it  was  owed  me.  I'm  satisfied,  but  you're  the  worst  lawyer  I  ever 
heard,  Dan  Webster.  All  you  have  is  a  voice.' 

A  Soldiers1  Monument  (L),  in  Bradley  Memorial  Park,  is  on  the  first  site  of 
Fryeburg  Academy.  For  a  monthly  salary  of  $20  Daniel  Webster  taught 
from  January  i  to  September  i,  1802,  hi  the  one  building  of  the  school,  a 
log  cabin  that  later  burned. 

Fryeburg  Academy  (R),  founded  in  1791,  now  has  three  modern  buildings, 
and  has  been  endowed  by  Cyrus  H.  K.  Curtis  (1850-1933),  head  of  the 
Curtis  Publishing  Company,  and  by  Colonel  Harvey  Dow  Gibson, 
president  of  the  Manufacturer's  Trust  Company  of  New  York,  who  is  an 
alumnus  of  the  academy. 

The  First  Congregational  Church  (R)  on  Main  St.,  built  in  1850,  is  an  at- 
tractive structure  with  closed  belfry,  and  an  entrance  portico  with  fluted 
columns. 

Opposite  the  church  is  a  boulder  indicating  the  two  Meridian  Stones 
placed  here  in  1883  by  Robert  E.  Peary,  Arctic  explorer,  who  was  once  a 
resident  of  Fryeburg.  The  stones  indicate  the  true  north,  enabling  sur- 
veyors to  obtain  the  magnetic  variation. 

Fryeburg  is  at  a  junction  (L)  with  US  302  (see  Tour  18)  which  enters  the 
village  (R)  at  the  northern  end. 

LOVELL  VILLAGE  (alt.  439,  Lovell  Town,  pop.  645),  73.3  m.,  is  a 
commercial  center  on  an  intervale  in  an  attractive  resort  area. 

The  township  was  settled  in  1779  and  named  for  Captain  John  Lovewell, 
leader  of  many  expeditions  against  the  Indians.  Sabattus  Mountain 
(alt.  1280)  (see  below)  is  the  highest  of  the  forest-covered  hills  near  the 
village.  Just  northwest  of  Lovell  Village  and  to  the  left  of  the  highway  lies 
the  southern  extreme  of  lovely  Kezar  Lake,  whose  pine-clad  shores  — 
which  shelter  many  summer  homes,  among  them  a  lodge  owned  by  Rudy 
Vallee,  radio  and  screen  star  —  stretch  between  this  point  and  North 
Lovell  (see  below),  a  distance  of  about  9  miles. 


370  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

The  Q-hole  golf  course  of  the  Lake  Kezar  Country  Club  (open  to  visitors, 
greens  fee  $2)  is  near  the  southern  end  of  the  lake. 

CENTER  LO VELL  (alt.  530,  Lovell  Town) ,  78.7  m. ,  consists  of  two  stores, 
a  gas  station,  and  a  half-dozen  homes  on  a  high  terrace  overlooking  the 
lake.  The  tourist  homes  and  camps  here  are  screened  from  the  highway  by 
trees. 

Right  from  Center  Lovell  on  a  dirt  road  3  m.  to  a  trail  up  the  eastern  slope  of 
Sabattus  Mountain.  The  1.5  m.  trail  is  rough;  a  good  part  of  it  over  a  dried  bed  of  a 
mountain  brook.  On  the  western  side  is  a  perpendicular  cliff,  which  the  more 
venturesome  may  scale  by  way  of  the  Devil's  Staircase,  a  peculiar  formation  of  250 
natural  rock  steps  embedded  in  the  mountain  side.  The  mountain  appears  to  be  one 
huge  ledge  of  micaceous  rock. 

NORTH  LOVELL  (alt.  441,  Lovell  Town),  82.9  m.,  a  small  neat  village 
catering  to  summer  people,  has  several  delightful  bridle  trails  winding 
through  its  environs. 

EAST  STONEHAM  (alt.  629,  Stoneham  Town,  pop.  164),  86.7  m.,  is  the 
only  settlement  in  a  hilly  township,  all  but  a  very  small  section  of  which  is 
included  in  the  White  Mountain  National  Forest.  Speckled  Mountain 
(alt.  2877),  some  miles  west,  is  the  highest  in  the  town. 

This  section  of  the  National  Forest,  with  its  superb  scenery,  is  rough 
country,  particularly  attractive  to  the  seasoned  mountain  climber  (see 
Sports  and  Recreation) . 

Rattlesnake  Mountain  and  Square  Dock  Mountain  are  seen  (L) . 

At  LYNCHVILLE  (alt.  555,  Albany  Town),  92  m.,  State  5  makes  a 
sharp  (L)  turn  to  the  north. 

Bumpus  Mine  (open  to  public)  (R),  94.2  m.,  is  one  of  the  most  productive 
feldspar  mines  in  Maine;  pink  and  green  beryl  is  also  mined  here;  the 
largest  beryl  crystal  in  the  world  was  taken  from  this  mine  in  1930.  The 
roughly  circular  pit  with  its  sheer  smooth  walls  of  cream  white  feldspar 
has  a  ramp  entrance  on  one  side.  When  the  more  valuable  clear  pink  or 
green  crystals  of  beryl  are  found,  they  are  usually  removed  at  once. 

From  the  beryl  is  extracted  a  silver-white  metal,  stronger  and  of  lighter 
weight  than  aluminum;  it  is  proposed  to  use  beryllium  as  an  alloy  in  the 
construction  of  airplane  motors.  Gem  beryl  is  rarely  found  in  this  mine. 

At  95.3  m.  is  the  town  house  of  ALBANY  (alt.  647,  Albany  Town,  pop. 
309) ,  the  corporate  center  of  a  hilly,  wooded  township  lying  in  the  valley 
of  Crooked  River. 

BETHEL  (alt.  700,  Bethel  Town,  pop.  2025)  (see  Tour  4),  102.9  m.,  is  at 
the  junctions  with  US  2  (see  Tour  4),  and  with  State  26  (see  Tour  14). 


TOUR      16:     From  BELFAST  to  SOUTH  CHINA,  32  w., 
State  3. 


Via  Belmont,  North  Searsmont,  Liberty,  and  Palermo. 
Two-lane,  hard-surfaced  roadbed. 

THE  rolling  farm  lands  and  woods  along  this  route  are  broken  by  still, 
deep  lakes  and  small  villages  whose  church  towers  stand  out  against  the 
sky.  The  woodlands  are  a  mixture  of  hardwood  and  pine  with  an  oc- 
casional clump  of  fir  or  spruce. 

BELFAST  (alt.  160,  pop.  4993)  (see  Tour  1  ,  sec.  £),0  m.,  is  at  a  junction 
with  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b). 

BELMONT  (alt.  398,  Belmont  Town,  pop.  227),  6.6  m.t  is  a  four-corners, 
formerly  known  as  Green  Plantation.  The  town  was  first  settled  by 
squatters  who,  having  no  legal  right  to  the  land,  resorted  to  a  ruse  in 
thwarting  attempts  to  eject  them.  When  word  of  the  impending  arrival  of 
unexpected  visitors  reached  the  settlement,  the  squatters  would  im- 
mediately don  feathers,  paint,  and  moccasins,  and,  when  officers  of  the 
law  arrived  the  little  settlement  would  appear  entirely  deserted,  except  for 
a  few  loitering  Indians  who  greeted  the  baffled  visitors  with  stolid  in- 
difference. This  subterfuge  caused  the  squatters  to  be  called  the  Green 
Indians. 

NORTH  SEARSMONT  (alt.  235,  Searsmont  Town,  pop.  613),  11  m.,  is 
the  center  of  a  township  in  which  is  the  summer  home  of  the  novelist,  Ben 
Ames  Williams,  and  the  '  Fraternity '  of  his  stories  is  recognizable  as  the 
northern  and  western  half  of  the  township. 

LIBERTY  (alt.  377,  Liberty  Town,  pop.  516),  15.8  m.,  on  George's  Stream 
and  formerly  the  site  of  tanning  mills  and  machine  shops,  now  has  no  in- 
dustries. The  township  was  originally  granted  under  the  Waldo  Patent, 
and  early  settlers,  in  order  to  maintain  their  rights  to  land  titles,  held  a 
secret  meeting  and  decided  to  take  away  the  land  agent's  papers.  Swear- 
ing themselves  to  secrecy,  they  seized  the  agent,  took  him  to  St.  George 
Lake  where  they  cut  a  hole  in  the  ice,  and  threatened  to  drop  him  into  the 
icy  waters  unless  he  gave  up  the  papers.  This  he  promised  to  do  but  later 
his  kidnapers  were  arrested  and  tried  in  the  old  Wiscasset  Courthouse. 

Before  a  cemetery  was  laid  out  in  Liberty  nearly  all  the  residents  had 
private  burying  grounds  in  their  back  fields. 

In  early  days  when  the  nearest  post  office  was  in  Wiscasset,  the  mails  were 
very  slow  in  winter,  people  in  Liberty  sometimes  waiting  weeks  for  replies 
to  their  letters.  Even  since  the  establishment  of  a  rural  delivery  route  22 
years  ago,  mail  carriers  have  encountered  difficulties  in  getting  the  mail 
through  in  winter,  sometimes  being  obliged  to  leave  their  cars  and  proceed 
on  snowshoes  with  such  mail  as  they  could  carry. 


372  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Around  1843,  a  large  group  of  Adventists,  who  were  convinced  the  world 
was  about  to  come  to  an  end,  gathered  here.  One  ardent  member  turned 
loose  his  pigs  and  cattle  and,  with  a  few  followers,  went  up  to  the  top  of 
near-by  Haystack  Mountain  to  await  the  cataclysm,  only  to  return,  dis- 
gruntled and  sorely  disappointed,  to  the  task  of  collecting  his  scattered 
livestock. 

More  than  a  century  ago  Liberty  was  the  home  of  Timothy  Barrett,  who, 
finding  the  village  little  to  his  liking,  crossed  to  the  opposite  shore  of 
George's  Stream,  where  he  laboriously  dug  a  cave  for  his  dwelling  and 
built  a  floating  garden  of  logs  upon  which  he  raised  vegetables.  He  had 
few  confidants,  and  his  seemingly  inexhaustible  supply  of  money  gave 
rise  to  rumors  that  Barrett  was  a  former  buccaneer,  possibly  a  fugitive 
from  Great  Britain.  After  his  death,  kettles  containing  French  coins  were 
dug  up  near  his  home  and  the  hollow  rail  of  a  near-by  fence  yielded  $100 
in  gold  coins. 

Lovely  St.  George  Lake,  near-by,  provides  excellent  fishing. 
At  23.1  m.  lies  Sheep  scot  Pond. 

When  snow  covers  the  green  slopes,  glistening  against  the  background  of 
pines,  little  red  flags  flutter  on  the  icy  surface  of  the  pond  heralding  the 
arrival  of  the  trap-fishing  season.  Spring  traps,  placed  in  holes  cut 
through  the  ice,  are  attached  to  short  wooden  sticks  with  a  tiny  two-or- 
three-inch  square  bit  of  red  cloth  at  the  top.  When  the  hungry  fish  rise  to 
the  bait,  the  spring  snaps  and  the  bright  little  flag  bobs  up  to  signal  the 
bite.  The  fishermen  are  able  to  control  several  lines  at  one  time.  This 
manner  of  winter  fishing  is  popular  not  only  in  this  district  but  throughout 
the  State. 

PALERMO  (alt.  345,  Palermo  Town,  pop.  513),  26.9  m.,  settled  in  1778  by 
pioneers  from  New  Hampshire,  is  principally  an  agricultural  community. 

SOUTH  CHINA  (alt.  209,  China  Town)  (see  Tour  13),  32  m.,  is  at  the 
junction  with  State  9  (see  Tour  13). 


TOUR    17:      From    AUGUSTA    to    ROCKLAND,   45.7  m., 
State  17. 


Via  South  Windsor,  Union,  and  West  Rockport. 
Two-lane  tar-surfaced  roads. 

STATE  17  passes  through  peaceful  agricultural  country  with  gently 
rolling  hills  and  skirts  numerous  small  lakes  and  ponds. 

AUGUSTA  (alt.  120,  pop.  17,198)  (see  AUGUSTA),  0  m.,  is  at  the 


TOUR  17:   From  Augusta  to  Rockland  373 

junctions  of  US  201  (see  Tour  10),  State  27  (see  Tour  12),  and  State  9  and 
State  11  (see  Tour  13). 

At  4.6  m.  (R)  is  the  north  gate  of  the  U.S.  Veterans'  Administration 
Facility,  a  reservation  containing  1752  acres  that  was  the  first  institution 
established  (1866)  in  the  United  States  for  disabled  veterans.  Though 
built  as  a  home  for  Civil  War  Veterans,  the  place  is  now  open  to  disabled 
men  of  all  wars.  It  is  a  village  in  itself,  with  a  number  of  barracks,  a  large 
modern  hospital,  an  administration  building,  workshops,  a  chapel,  a 
library,  a  theater,  a  clubhouse,  a  store,  and  officers'  homes  in  landscaped 
grounds. 

For  many  years  the  place  was  called  the  National  Home  for  Disabled 
Volunteer  Soldiers,  though  it  was  popularly  known  as  Togus,  a  con- 
traction of  the  Indian  Worromontogus.  By  1915,  50  years  after  the  end  of 
the  Civil  War,  the  number  of  members  had  been  greatly  reduced,  several 
barracks  were  closed,  and  the  canteen  was  discontinued.  Today  the  home 
has  over  700  inmates.  The  National  Cemetery  on  the  hill  contains  the 
bodies  of  many  soldiers. 

SOUTH  WINDSOR  (alt.  300,  Windsor  Town,  pop.  565),  10.6  m.,  is  the 
center  of  a  town  first  called  Malta;  it  was  the  scene  of  land  troubles  be- 
tween the  proprietors  of  the  Kennebec  Purchase  and  the  early  settlers, 
who  were  without  title.  This  eventually  led  to  the  so-called  Malta  War  in 
which  a  surveyor,  Paul  Chadwick,  was  slain  by  a  party  of  settlers  dis- 
guised as  Indians.  Several  members  of  the  attacking  party  were  jailed  in 
Augusta,  and  troops  were  called  in  for  six  weeks  to  guard  the  jail,  the 
courthouse,  and  the  residences  of  the  proprietors  until  after  the  Court 
trials. 

Windsor  shared  with  Vassalboro  the  honor  of  having  furnished  masts  and 
spars  for  the  frigate  '  Constitution '  which  was  built  at  Hartt's  Navy  Yard, 
Boston,  and  launched  October  21,  1797. 

Clara  Barton  (1821-1912),  the  nurse  of  Civil  War  days,  who  organized 
the  American  National  Red  Cross  (first  called  the  American  National 
Association  of  the  Red  Cross),  spent  her  summer  vacations  here  as  a  child. 

At  14.1  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  218. 

Right  on  State  218  is  NORTH  WHITEFIELD  (alt.  205,  Whitefield  Town,  pop. 
908),  3.1  m.  An  annual  Game  Supper  is  served  by  the  Whitefield  Fish  and  Game 
Club  in  the  Grange  Hall  in  mid-October.  The  supper  of  venison,  rabbit  pie, 
squirrel  pie,  partridge,  and  sometimes  coon  and  bear,  is  followed  by  a  dance. 

The  town  was  settled  about  1770,  principally  by  Irish  Catholics,  who  were  at- 
tracted by  the  forests,  and  the  streams  convenient  for  floating  logs  to  the  sea.  The 
early  lumbering  has  been  replaced  by  farming. 

Here  is  a  junction  with  State  126. 

i.  Right  from  North  Whitefield  on  State  126  is  St.  Denis  Church,  1.5  m.  (L),  a 
brick  edifice  with  Gothic  tower  built  in  1833  on  the  site  of  the  first  log  church 
(1822).  The  bricks  used  in  this  building  and  in  the  abandoned  Convent 
across  the  road  were  made  by  hand  on  the  church  grounds.  The  history 
of  this  church  is  closely  linked  with  that  of  St.  Patrick's  in  Damariscotta  Mills 
(see  Tour  1,  sec.  6).  In  1818,  the  Reverend  Denis  Ryan,  first  Catholic  priest 
ordained  in  New  England,  was  named  pastor  of  the  parish. 


374  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Nearly  opposite  the  church  is  Whitefield  Academy  and  Orphan  Asylum  (R),  a 
large  ivy-covered  brick  structure  built  in  1871,  and  used  until  1887,  when  the 
Sisters  of  Mercy  and  the  orphans  were  removed  to  Portland. 

2.  Left  from  North  Whitefield  on  State  126,  which  winds  through  an  attrac- 
tive wooded  section  to  Pleasant  Pond,  2.7  m.  (L).  Opposite  the  Pond  is 
Pleasant  Pond  Cemetery  (R),  with  vaults  and  granite  boundary  posts  at  the 
highway  level.  Laid  out  on  12  terraces,  each  about  4  feet  above  the  one  below 
it,  on  a  steep  side,  hill,  with  granite  steps  leading  to  the  higher  levels,  this 
cemetery  presents  an  unusual  appearance.  From  the  top  of  the  hill  is  a  broad 
view  of  Pleasant  Pond  and  the  surrounding  farms. 

The  circular  Jefferson  Cattle  Pound,  5.7  m.  (R),  is  30  feet  in  diameter  with 
thick  field-stone  walls  8  feet  high.  The  pound  was  built  in  1829  by  Silas  Noyes 
at  a  cost  of  $28;  it  has  been  repaired  recently.  It  was  formerly  used  as  a  place 
to  keep  stray  cattle  until  the  owners  came  for  them  and  paid  for  their  keep. 
From  a  slight  elevation  at  6  m.  (R)  the  northern  half  of  Damariscotta  Lake,  8 
miles  long,  is  seen.  This  end  of  the  lake  is  known  as  Great  Bay.  The  placid 
body  of  water  with  its  small  wooded  islands  attracts  many  summer  visitors. 
The  First  Baptist  Church,  7  m.  (L),  a  white  edifice  with  belfry,  was  built  in 
1808  and  remodeled  in  1891.  On  the  lawn  is  a  boulder  with  commemorative 
tablet  to  the  first  settlers  of  Jefferson. 

At  7.3  m.  (R)  is  Baptismal  Beach,  a  stretch  of  shore  on  Damariscotta  Lake, 
still  used  by  the  Baptists  for  baptism  by  immersion. 

JEFFERSON  (alt.  no,  Jefferson  Town,  pop.  888),  8.5  m.,  is  composed  of  a 
group  of  neat  white  one-and-a-half-story  houses,  with  comfortable  rambling 
farmhouses  on  its  outskirts.  A  number  of  oxen  are  used  by  the  farmers  in 
Jefferson.  It  is  believed  locally  that  the  fields  are  unusually  verdant  in  this 
region  because  the  land  is  plowed  deeply  with  the  aid  of  these  beasts. 

Crescent  Beach  (bathhouses,  picnic  grounds,  and  playground  equipment),  9.5  m., 
at  the  northern  end  of  Damariscotta  Lake,  has  a  gradual  slope  to  deep  water 
where  a  moored  float,  with  diving  board  and  tower,  permits  aquatic  stunts. 
Damariscotta  Lake  is  frequented  by  sail  boat  enthusiasts  who  cruise  among  the 
numerous  islands  and  enjoy  the  view  of  HaskelPs  Mountain  with  its  fire 
tower,  and  Bunker  Hill  with  its  shining  white  church  and  background  of  fir 
and  spruce  trees.  The  lake  is  a  breeding  ground  for  pickerel. 

North  Knox  Fairground,  29.6  m.  (R),  is  the  scene  of  Union  Fair  during  the 
last  week  of  September. 

UNION  (alt.  105,  Union  Town,  pop.  1060),  30.2  m.,  its  attractive  business 
blocks  facing  three  sides  of  the  village  green  with  its  Civil  War  monument 
and  band  stand,  is  a  thriving  village  far  enough  from  large  communities  to 
be  a  commercial  center  in  itself.  Many  of  the  substantial  residences  are  on 
a  steep  side  hill  to  the  north  and  east.  The  small  industries  of  the  village 
include  casket  manufacturing,  the  seasonal  canning  of  vegetables  and  the 
manufacture  of  wooden  handles  and  boxes.  A  model  milk  plant  has  re- 
cently been  built  here  for  the  use  of  the  dairy  farmers  of  the  vicinity. 
SOUTH  HOPE  (alt.  390,  Hope  Town,  pop.  464),  35.6  m.,  between 
Grassy  and  Fish  Ponds,  is  the  largest  settlement  in  a  hilly  town  that  has 
a  number  of  large  lakes  to  the  south.  There  are  no  special  restrictions  on 
fishing  in  these  waters;  ice  fishing  is  permitted  for  all  fish  except  bass. 
At  38.4  m.  (L)  is  Mirror  Lake,  a  small  pond  at  the  foot  of  Ragged  Moun- 
tain (alt.  1300),  which  shades  it  during  the  early  part  of  the  day.  The 
rugged  scenery  and  its  reflections  in  the  lake  have  been  painted  frequently 
by  landscape  artists. 


TOUR  18:   From  Portland  to  Center  Conway  375 

WEST  ROCKPORT  (alt.  225,  Rockport  Town,  pop.  1651),  39.9  m. 

ROCKLAND  (alt.  40,  pop.  9075)  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b),  45.7  m.,  is  at  a 
junction  with  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b). 


TOUR     18:     From  PORTLAND  to  NEW  HAMPSHIRE  LINE 

(Center  Conway},  58.1  m.,  US  302,  The  Roosevelt  Trail. 


Via  Foster's  Corner,  Raymond,  South  Casco,  Naples,  Bridgton,  and  Fryeburg. 
Two-lane  cement  or  macadamized  roadbed. 

MILE  after  mile  of  delightful  countryside  is  visible  from  this  route  as  it 
twists  along  an  almost  unbroken  chain  of  clear  lakes,  dips  into  broad 
valleys  and  winds  through  still,  fragrant  groves;  at  the  western  end  sweep- 
ing suddenly  over  the  crest  of  a  hill  it  reveals  the  far-away  peaks  of  the 
Presidential  Range,  which  seem  to  vary  in  altitude  with  each  atmospheric 
change.  In  summer  the  thick,  dark  forests  form  a  somber  border  around 
the  rich  green  of  fertile  farm  lands,  and  when  crisp  fall  nights  bring  the 
first  touches  of  frost,  woodlands  flame  into  color,  the  scarlet  and  gold  of 
their  autumn  foliage  in  vivid  contrast  to  the  brown  fields. 

The  pretty  little  villages,  grown  gray  in  the  shade  of  gnarled  old  trees, 
drowse  peacefully.  Every  settlement  along  the  way  caters  to  summer 
visitors,  the  larger  villages  serving  as  trading  centers  for  cottagers  and 
campers. 

Longfellow  Square  in  PORTLAND  (alt.  80,  pop.  70,810)  (see  PORT- 
LAND), 0  m.,  is  at  the  junction  of  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a),  State  25  (see 
Tour  19),  and  State  26  (see  Tour  14). 

At  8.3  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  is  HIGHLAND  LAKE  (Westbrook),  0.3  m.,  a  settlement  near 
the  south  end  of  Duck  Pond,  a  pretty  little  cottage-bordered  body  of  water. 

FOSTER'S  CORNER  (alt.  210,  Windham  Town),  13.3  m.,  is  at  a 
junction  with  State  4  (see  Tour  11). 

NORTH  WINDHAM  (alt.  300,  Windham  Town),  16.1  m. 
At  17.1  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  White's  Bridge,  1  m.,  spanning  the  mouth  of  an  inlet  of  Sebago 
Lake.  At  this  point  Chief  Poland  (Polin)  of  the  Rockameecock  Tribe  assembled  his 
warriors  for  an  attack  against  the  settlers  who  had  gathered  at  Old  Province  Fort 
(see  Tour  11).  Below  the  bridge  (L),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Presumpscot  River  and 
below  the  present  dam,  is  an  Early  Dam  built  by  the  Indians. 
At  the  Harry  Kennard  home  (R),  is  a  Collection  (open  to  public)  of  over  1000  Indian 
relics  and  Red  Paint  artifacts  (see  Earliest  Inhabitants)  including  chisels,  gouges, 
and  pieces  of  pottery.  Many  of  the  artifacts  are  made  of  a  stoog  entirely  foreign  to 


376  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

this  part  of  the  State  and  some  of  them  were  discovered  at  an  Indian  Burial 
Ground,  about  0.3  m.  north  on  the  shore  of  Sebago  Lake,  said  to  be  one  of  the 
largest  such  burial  grounds  in  the  United  States. 

RAYMOND  (alt.  295,  Raymond  Town,  pop.  446),  21.8  m.,  is  on  beautiful 
Jordan  Bay  of  Sebago  Lake  with  Panther  Pond  forming  its  northern 
border.  Neat,  well-kept  residences  line  each  side  of  the  highway  in  the 
shadows  of  ancient  elm  trees. 

Right  of  the  highway  is  the  Morton  Homestead  (private),  built  in  1765;  it 
has  its  original  six-panel  doors,  pumpkin  pine  flooring  and  a  wainscot 
made  of  a  single  board  27  in.  wide  and  13^  ft.  long. 

Also  on  the  right  is  the  Hayden  House  (private),  similar  to  the  Morton 
Homestead  in  architectural  style;  it  was  built  in  1786  and  has  its  original 
hand-made  clapboards. 

The  Raymond  Fish  Hatchery,  on  Panther  Run  connecting  Panther  Pond 
with  Sebago  Lake,  has  various  buildings  in  which  are  rows  of  long  tanks 
filled  with  water  piped  from  the  river.  Salmon  eggs  are  hatched  in  these 
vats,  and  the  near-by  pools  harbor  great  numbers  of  fish.  As  many  as 
90,000  two-year-old  landlocked  salmon  are  released  from  the  hatchery  at 
one  time. 

Sebago  Lake  (Ind.:  'stretch  of  water'  or  'place  of  river-lake'),  with 
a  length  of  14  miles  and  a  maximum  width  of  n  miles,  in  some  places 
reaches  a  depth  of  400  feet.  Several  small  islands  stud  the  broad  sweep  of 
water,  and  off  the  southeastern  shore  lies  the  green  bulk  of  Frye's  Island. 
The  lake  with  its  tributaries  is  the  original  home  of  the  landlocked  salmon 
(salmo  Sebago),  which  propagate  in  great  numbers  and  grow  rapidly. 
These  splendid  fighters,  often  attaining  a  weight  of  eight  pounds,  rise  best 
in  the  early  months  of  the  year,  and  in  September.  Hard  hitters  at  fly  or 
bait,  landlocked  salmon  give  a  stiff  fight  until  landed.  Also  in  these  waters 
are  trout,  togue,  bass,  white  perch,  smelts,  pickerel,  and  an  abundance  of 
cusk  that  provides  excellent  catches  during  winter  fishing  through  the  ice. 
On  the  shores  of  Sebago  Lake  are  many  camps  where  hundreds  of  tanned 
youngsters  spend  the  summer.  The  drinking  water  for  Portland  and  its 
vicinity  comes  from  this  lake.  During  the  summer  a  boat  (variable 
schedule,  inquire  at  dock)  plies  the  waters  of  Sebago  from  the  dock  near  the 
Sebago  railroad  station  (see  Tour  19). 

At  23.7  m.  (R),  about  50  feet  up  from  the  highway,  is  Pulpit  Rock,  a 
smooth  projection  5^"  feet  high  and  equally  wide,  on  which,  it  is  said,  the 
Devil  used  to  stand  when  preaching  to  the  Indians.  During  one  of  his  dis- 
courses, according  to  legend,  a  rash  young  chief  had  the  temerity  to  laugh 
in  the  Devil's  face,  whereupon  the  Evil  One  rose  in  a  passion  and,  stamp- 
ing his  foot,  caused  the  ground  in  front  of  the  pulpit  to  drop  50  feet. 
Nathaniel  Hawthorne  was  very  fond  of  this  rock,  where  he  spent  many 
hours  reading. 

SOUTH  CASCO  (alt.  310,  Casco  Town,  pop.  713),  24.7  m.,  lies  on  a 
narrow  strip  of  land  between  Thomas  Pond  (E)  and  Sebago  Lake  (W). 
Farmhouses  comprise  the  residences  of  this  small  settlement,  from  which 


TOUR  18:   From  Portland  to  Center  Conway  377 

well-cultivated  lands  extend  into  the  hills  overlooking  Sebago  Lake  and 

the  14  Dingley  Islands  near  the  shore. 

Left  from  South  Casco  on  a  local  dirt  road  to  a  large  wooden  Tower,  0.3  m.,  with  a 
bell  fire  alarm.  West  of  the  tower,  across  the  field,  is  a  large  Rock  and  Shell  Forma- 
tion, about  50  feet  high  overlooking  a  fine  grove  of  pine  on  the  shores  of  Dingley 
Bay  on  Sebago  Lake.  The  variously  shaped  shelves  of  this  formation  terminate  in 
a  large,  flat  hood-like  top  shelf  beneath  which  is  a  cave;  in  this,  it  is  said,  a  14-year- 
old  girl  was  held  prisoner  by  the  Indians  for  three  years.  Her  family,  finally  dis- 
covering her  whereabouts,  led  an  attack  on  the  Indians  and  resided  her. 
At  0.4  m.  (R)  is  the  Manning  House  (private),  built  in  1810  by  Richard  Manning, 
an  uncle  of  Nathaniel  Hawthorne.  A  large  square  two-story  structure  with  hip 
roof  and  massive  chimneys,  it  has  eight  fireplaces  with  openings  ranging  from  45  to 
56  inches  in  width.  There  is  a  Christian  or  'witch'  door  with  five  panels,  and 
the  interior  is  decorated  with  wall  paper  126  years  old.  All  the  window  glass  was 
imported  from  Belgium.  In  this  house,  Nathaniel  Hawthorne  visited  for  months  at 
a  time  before  the  Hawthorne  home  (see  below)  was  built.  It  was  Uncle  Richard  who 
taught  the  budding  literary  genius  the  rudiments  of  mathematics,  grammar  and 
geography. 

The  frame  Murch  House  (private},  on  the  left  side  of  the  road,  was  built  in  1780  by 
Captain  Joseph  Dingley.  It  was  originally  a  two-story  house,  but  fire  destroyed  the 
upper  part.  The  ground  floor  was  preserved  intact,  and  the  house  was  later  re- 
modeled into  the  present  story-and-a-half  structure.  At  the  rear  of  the  Murch 
House  stands  an  Old  Windmill,  its  gaunt  shape  in  drab  contrast  with  the  surround- 
ing fields. 

Just  beyond  this  house  the  road  crosses  a  bridge  over  Dingley  Brook,  which 
separates  the  townships  of  Cascp  and  Raymond.  The  road  continues  out  onto 
Raymond  Cape,  becoming  a  scenic  shore  route  along  a  four-mile  strip  of  wooded 
land  projecting  into  Sebago  Lake.  On  the  tip  of  the  cape,  flint  of  the  quality  used 
by  Indians  in  making  their  arrow  and  spear  heads,  skinning  knives,  and  tomahawks, 
is  frequently  found. 

Just  after  the  road  crosses  the  Dingley  Brook  bridge,  at  0.5  m.  (L),  is  the  Haw- 
thorne House  (open  in  summer),  a  remodeled  two-and-a-half -story  barnlike  struc- 
ture, now  owned  by  the  Town  of  Raymond  and  used  for  public  meetings.  This 
house  was  erected  in  1812  by  Richard  Manning  for  his  sister,  Mrs.  Hathorne,  the 
mother  of  Nathaniel  Hawthorne,  who  lived  here  in  seclusion  after  the  death  of  her 
husband.  The  boy,  Nathaniel  Hathorne,  then  about  seven  years  of  age,  roamed 
the  near-by  hills,  fished  in  local  streams,  and  frequently  sat  on  rocks  in  sunny  spots, 
engaged  in  his  favorite  pastime  of  reading.  One  close  companion  of  his  boyhood 
days  was  William  Symmes,  a  Negro  boy  of  his  own  age.  As  there  were  few  children 
in  the  community,  he  and  Nathaniel  would  listen  together  to  the  tales  of  the  men 
who  congregated  in  Manning's  store.  Extracts  from  Nathaniel's  diary  show  the 
deep  interest  he  took  in  all  he  heard: '  Captain  Britton  from  Otisfield  was  at  Uncle 
Richard's  today.  Not  long  ago  Uncle  brought  here  from  Salem,  a  new  kind  of 
potatoes  called  Long  Reds.  Captain  Britton  had  some  for  seed  and  uncle  asked 
how  he  liked  them.  He  answered,  "They  yield  well,  grow  very  long;  one  end  is 
very  poor  and  the  other  good  for  nothing."  I  laughed  about  it  after  he  was  gone, 
but  Uncle  looked  sour,  and  said  there  was  no  wit  in  his  answer  and  that  the  saying 
was  stale.  It  was  new  to  me  and  his  way  of  saying  it  very  funny.  Perhaps  Uncle 
did  not  like  to  hear  his  favorite  potato  spoken  of  in  that  way,  and  that  if  the  cap- 
tain had  praised  it  he  would  have  been  called  witty.' 

Another  entry  reads:  'A  peddler  named  Dominicus  Jordan  was  today  in  Uncle 
Richard's  store  telling  a  ghost  story.  I  listened  intently  but  tried  not  to  seem  in- 
terested. The  story  was  of  a  house,  the  owner  of  which  was  suddenly  killed.  Since 
his  death  the  west  garret  window  cannot  be  kept  closed,  though  the  shutters  be 
hasped  and  nailed  at  night;  they  are  invariably  found  open  the  next  morning,  and 
no  one  can  tell  when  and  how  the  nails  were  drawn.'  (This  Dominicus  Jordan, 
under  the  name  of  Dominicus  Pike,  appears  in  Hawthorne's  story,  'Mr.  Higgen- 
botham's  Catastrophe.') 


378  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

Nathaniel  Hathorne  was  graduated  from  Bowdoin  College  in  1825  and  changed  his 
surname  to  Hawthorne  the  same  year.  College  vacations  were  spent  at  his  Ray- 
mond home,  and  in  later  years,  when  a  resident  of  Salem,  Mass.,  he  often  spoke  of 
his  longing  for  this  place.  Another  note  from  Hawthorne's  diary  of  later  years 
refers  to  Raymond : '  I  have  visited  many  places  called  beautiful  in  Europe  and  the 
United  States  but  have  never  seen  the  place  that  enchanted  me  like  the  flat  rock 
from  which  I  used  to  fish.' 

At  2.2  m.  in  a  wooded  section  of  the  cape  is  a  Luther  Gulick  Girls'  Camp  (Little 
Wohelo).  The  camp  directly  across  the  Lake  (Wohelo)  is  the  original  Luther 
Gulick  camp,  said  to  be  the  first  summer  camp  of  its  kind  in  the  United  States. 
Luther  Gulick  (1865-1918),  pioneer  in  physical  education,  founded  the  child 
hygiene  department  of  the  Russell  Sage  Foundation,  contributed  a  great  deal  to 
the  advancement  of  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association;  with  James  Naismith, 
he  devised  the  game  of  basketball,  and  with  his  wife  founded  the  Campfire  Girls 
organization.  Although  both  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gulick  are  dead,  the  camps  are  main- 
tained and  directed  by  their  son,  Halsey. 

At  4.6  m.  is  an  open  lot  for  parking.  About  100  yards  (R)  near  the  shore  of  the  lake 
is  Pulpit  Rock,  pentagonal  in  shape  and  7  feet  high.  Two  natural  steps  lead  up  to 
its  smooth  top  from  which  Chief  Poland  is  believed  to  have  addressed  gatherings  of 
his  tribe,  the  Rockameecocks.  Near  Pulpit  Rock  is  Frye's  Leap  (L),  a  cliff-top  high 
above  Sebago  Lake,  associated  with  an  incident  of  pioneer  days.  After  running 
several  miles  with  a  band  of  Indians  in  close  pursuit,  a  Captain  Frye  came  out  upon 
the  cliff.  He  escaped  the  Indians  by  diving  into  the  waters  far  below,  and  swam 
into  a  cave  formed  by  an  overhanging  ledge,  in  which  he  remained  until  nightfall, 
when  he  swam  over  to  a  large  island,  later  named  for  him.  In  the  same  cave,  the 
first  chapters  of  'The  Scarlet  Letter'  were  penned  by  Nathaniel  Hawthorne.  On 
the  vertical  faces  of  the  cliff,  which  is  formed  of  huge  boulders  75  to  100  feet  high, 
are  paintings  made  with  pigments  in  which  the  red  men  portrayed  Indians,  native 
animals,  and  hunting  weapons.  Once  vividly  colorful,  these  examples  of  Indian  art 
have  mellowed  to  soft  hues,  blending  beautifully  into  the  rock. 

At  29.5  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  11  (see  Tour  13).  Between  this  point 
and  Naples,  US  302  and  State  11  are  one  route  (see  Tour  13). 

NAPLES  (alt.  280,  Naples  Town,  pop.  641),  31.2  m.,  with  two  golf 
courses  (open\  is  a  stopping  point  on  the  Songo  River  boat  trip  (see 
Tour  19). 

Naples  is  entered  from  the  east  over  an  iron  drawbridge,  which  spans  a 
stream  connecting  Long  Lake  (R)  and  Brandy  Pond  (L) ;  from  the  bridge 
is  an  exceptionally  fine  view  of  Mt.  Washington  and  the  surrounding  hills, 
which  seem  to  rise  almost  from  the  northern  rim  of  Long  Lake.  On  wind- 
whipped  Long  Lake,  seaplanes  and  sea-sleds,  as  well  as  fast  cabin  cruisers, 
find  wharfing  facilities. 

The  people  of  Naples  take  their  politics  so  seriously  that  until  a  few  years 
ago  the  town  was  openly  divided,  with  two  entrances  to  the  public  build- 
ings, one  for  the  Democrats  and  the  other  for  the  Republicans.  In  these 
buildings  the  seating  plan  was  so  arranged  that  each  party  had  its  own 
half  of  the  room.  This  sharp  party  line  was  drawn  even  in  the  school- 
room, with  the  children  of  Republican  parents  seated  on  one  side  of  the 
room  and  the  children  of  Democratic  parents  on  the  other;  the  climax 
came  when  it  became  necessary  to  assign  two  teachers  to  each  room  to 
satisfy  the  rabid  feelings  of  the  parents.  When  a  flagpole  was  erected  on 
the  village  green  by  the  Republicans,  the  Democrats,  not  to  be  outdone, 
had  a  flagpole  erected  on  the  same  plot,  with  fitting  ceremony.  While  such 


TOUR  18:   From  Portland  to  Center  Conway  379 

open  expression  of  strong  political  feeling  has  disappeared  to  a  certain 
extent,  politics  is  still  of  paramount  importance  in  Naples. 

Left  from  Naples  on  the  Lake  House  Road,  at  the  home  of  Harold  Ridlon,  0.5  m. 
(L),  is  an  interesting  Collection  of  Indian  Relics  (open),  consisting  of  arrowheads, 
stone  skinning  knives,  and  tomahawk  heads,  all  well  arranged  and  catalogued. 
These  relics  have  been  collected  on  the  shores  of  Sebago  Lake  and  are  in  an  excel- 
lent state  of  preservation. 

At  31.6  m.  (R),  in  the  rear  of  a  cemetery  on  the  shore  of  Long  Lake,  rests 
the  partly  exposed  hulk  of  the  freighter  'Columbia,'  a  6o-ton  vessel,  later 
christened  'The  Ethel.'  The  'Columbia'  was  the  last  of  the  fleet  that 
carried  lumber  down  Sebago  Lake  and  along  the  canal  to  Stroudwater  and 
the  sea.  First  rigged  as  a  schooner,  she  was  later  steam  driven,  and  made 
her  last  trip  in  1904.  In  the  past,  as  now,  the  waters  of  Sebago  and  Long 
Lakes  were  subject  to  sudden  and  severe  squalls,  and  the  crews  on  these 
shallow  freighters  were  hard  put  to  keep  them  on  an  even  keel. 

At  32.7  m.  (L)  is  The  Manor,  now  an  inn,  but  built  as  a  home  in  1799  by 
George  Pierce,  the  first  settler  of  Naples.  The  front  and  rear  walls  of  the 
two-story,  square  structure  are  of  wood,  the  side  walls  of  brick.  The 
house  has  four  chimneys,  a  hip  roof,  and  24-light  windows.  The  interior, 
with  its  original  flooring,  decorated  cornices,  wainscotting  of  single  board 
width,  six  fireplaces,  and  a  spacious  hall  with  graceful  balustraded  stair- 
way, retains  much  of  its  early  appearance.  From  the  Manor  is  a  fine  view 
of  Long  Lake  and  the  White  Mountains.  The  mineral  spring  on  this 
property  supplies  excellent  water;  in  1935  when  repairs  were  being  made 
on  the  house,  piping  of  hollow  logs  was  found  for  conveying  water  from 
the  spring  to  the  house. 

To  the  rear  of  the  Manor  is  Skid  Hill  and  a  small  group  of  pines  known  as 
the  Perley  Pines,  some  of  them  marked  in  pre-Revolutionary  days  with 
the  'broad  arrow,'  indicating  that  they  were  reserved  for  masts  of  the 
Royal  Navy;  the  'broad  arrows'  are  still  discernible.  When  Skid  Hill  was 
named,  an  unbroken  forest  of  white  pine  stretched  to  Bridgton.  Logs 
hauled  to  the  hill  were  rolled  down  the  hillside  across  the  road  and  field  to 
Mast  Cove  on  the  shores  of  Long  Lake,  there  to  be  loaded  on  freighters 
and  carried  to  the  coast. 

Seba  Smith,  one  of  the  first  prominent  American  humorists,  recounted  the 
exploits  of  a  rough-and-ready  crew  that  for  many  seasons  made  a  festive 
occasion  of  cutting  and  loading  the  pine  in  this  region.  Smith  was  born  in 
1792  in  a  log  cabin  in  Buckfield,  of  which  his  father  had  been  one  of  the 
first  settlers.  After  receiving  some  instruction  at  Bridgton  Academy  in 
Bridgton,  where  the  family  lived  for  a  time,  he  obtained  a  loan  for  his 
education  and  entered  Bowdoin  College.  An  excellent  student,  he  was  of 
mild  nature  and  inclined  to  oppose  radical  changes  in  the  established 
order.  After  his  graduation  he  became  assistant  editor  of  the  Portland 
Argus,  later  purchasing  a  half  interest.  His  'Major  Jack  Downing 
Letters,'  on  contemporary  political  issues,  first  appeared  in  the  Portland 
Courier. 

At  33  m.  (L)  is  the  Hayloft,  a  house  and  remodeled  barn  on  land  that  was 


380  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

a  Revolutionary  War  bonus  given  to  a  Private  Hill.  To  this  veteran  and 
his  wife  were  born  two  sons,  one  of  whom  became  Capt.  Charles  Hill, 
engaged  in  the  clipper  ship  trade  with  the  Orient.  On  one  of  his  trips  to 
China,  Captain  Hill  and  his  crew  are  said  to  have  removed  several  large 
idols  from  a  Chinese  temple  and  succeeded  in  bringing  them  back  to  the 
United  States.  Upon  close  examination,  the  exceedingly  heavy  idols  were 
found  to  be  filled  with  gold.  The  sum  realized  by  Captain  Hill,  as  his 
share,  was  around  $300,000.  With  part  of  the  money  he  added  a  fine  two- 
and-a-half-story  house  to  the  old  homestead,  and  used  the  old  house  as  an 
ell.  The  spacious  main  house,  which  was  built  80  years  ago,  overlooks 
Mast  Cove.  Chandeliers  hanging  from  decorative  ceiling  rosettes  brighten 
the  large  rooms  and  scatter  shadows  on  the  graceful  balustrade  and  broad 
stairway  in  the  wide  hall,  where  for  many  years  two  of  the  huge  idols 
reposed  in  odd  contrast  with  the  other  furnishings. 
After  building  the  main  house  and  losing  most  of  the  remainder  of  his 
stolen  wealth,  Captain  Hill  grew  restless.  With  the  hope  of  recouping  his 
fortune,  he  once  again  set  sail  for  the  Far  East;  he  was  never  seen  again 
and  it  is  possible  that  the  priests,  aware  of  his  sacrilegious  plundering, 
killed  him  when  he  returned  to  the  temple. 

BRIDGTON  (alt.  360,  Bridgton  Town,  pop.  2649),  40  m.,  is  a  trading 
center  for  the  many  summer  and  winter  visitors  of  the  environs,  and  has 
excellent  recreational  facilities. 

Old  elm  trees  grace  the  residential  sections  where  well-kept  old  houses 
stand  beside  those  of  later  architecture. 

Bridgton  is  musically  inclined,  having  a  band,  Fremstad  Music  Club,  and 
church  musical  societies.  Olivia  Fremstad,  the  prima  donna,  was  a 
summer  resident  of  the  town  for  several  years,  and  many  other  musicians 
of  note  have  become  summer  residents. 

The  Pondicherry  Mills  (open  to  visitors)  (R)  at  Pondicherry  Square  were 
named  for  a  French  province  in  the  eastern  part  of  India.  The  mills  have 
manufactured  woolen  goods  and  provided  Bridgton  with  a  means  of  liveli- 
hood for  many  years. 

Highland  Lake,  the  southern  end  of  which  is  within  the  village  limits, 
provides  fine  trout  and  bass  fishing.  At  the  village  end  of  the  lake  is  a 
Rearing  Pool  for  trout. 

Opposite  the  rearing  pool  is  the  Walter  Hawkins  House  (private),  a  story - 
and-a-half  structure  built  in  1770,  but  extensively  rebuilt  in  recent  years 
with  the  use  of  much  of  the  old  building  material  such  as  hand-hewn 
timbers  and  handmade  nails.  Among  the  furnishings  are  many  old 
Bridgton  pieces. 

Right  from  Bridgton  on  State  117  to  Bridgton  Academy,  3.6  m.  (L),  a  co-educa- 
tional preparatory  school  of  high  scholastic  standing,  first  opened  in  1808.  The 
Spratt-Meade  Museum  (open)  on  the  campus  displays  Indian  artifacts,  early 
American  farm  and  home  implements,  butterfly,  shell,  and  mineral  collections, 
early  books  and  manuscripts,  and  clothing  of  an  early  period. 
The  village  of  NORTH  BRIDGTON  (alt.  370,  Town  of  Bridgton),  in  which  the 
academy  stands,  is  a  summer  resort  on  the  edge  of  Long  Lake  along  the  wooded 
shores  of  which  are  many  estates. 


TOUR  18:   From  Portland  to  Center  Conway  381 

In  the  Glines  Neighborhood,  5.8  m.  (Bridgton  Town),  in  a  neat  little  cemetery  (R) 
beside  the  road,  is  the  Grave  of  Captain  John  Haywood,  hero  of  Bunker  Hill. 
Private  Haywood,  in  that  battle,  fought  bravely  and,  when  his  captain  fell  mortally 
wounded,  seized  the  sword  from  the  captain's  fingers,  and  springing  upon  the 
parapet,  encouraged  his  men  and  directed  their  activities.  Private  Haywood  be- 
came Captain  Haywood  in  the  course  of  time,  survived  the  war,  and  returned  to  his 
old  home  at  North  Bridgton.  On  the  slate  stone  at  Captain  Haywood's  grave  is  an 
inscription  that  seems  to  have  appealed  to  many  people  in  the  early  days: 

'Pause  stranger,  ere  you  pass  by  — 
As  you  are  now,  so  once  was  I. 
As  I  am  now,  soon  you'll  be, 
Prepare  for  death,  to  follow  me.' 

At  43.7  m.  Pleasant  Mountain  looms  up  ahead  (left  center). 

At  45.7  m.  a  long  bridge  crosses  narrow  Moose  Pond  which  extends  on  both 
sides  of  the  bridge  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see.  This  delightful  spot  where  the 
green  wooded  slopes  of  Pleasant  Mountain  on  the  western  bank  are  mir- 
rored in  the  cold,  sparkling  waters  has  been  little  spoiled  by  the  coming  of 
civilization. 

At  49.4  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  dirt  road  to  a  parking  space  at  1.5  m.  where  is  the  entrance  to  a  well- 
defined  trail  leading  to  the  summit  of  Pleasant  Mountain  (alt.  2037).  This  2.5  m. 
trail,  following  an  old  coach  road  a  considerable  distance,  has  markers  at  frequent 
intervals  and  rustic  benches  at  scenic  points.  Halfway  up  the  trail  (L)  is  a  Ranger's 
Cabin  built  in  a  clearing.  Near-by  is  a  cold  spring.  Above  this  point  the  trail  is 
more  precipitous. 

The  Fire  Tower  (open),  on  the  mountain  summit  is  always  manned  by  a  fire  war- 
den. The  glass-enclosed  room,  about  8  feet  square,  permits  an  unobstructed  view 
for  30  miles  with  the  naked  eye,  and  75  miles  with  glasses.  It  would  be  difficult  to 
count  the  numerous  mountain  peaks,  broken  only  by  Lake  Kezar  to  the  north  and 
six  other  lakes.  To  the  southeast  unwinds  the  broad  silver  ribbon  of  Casco  Bay. 
Three  other  lookout  towers,  Kearsarge,  Ossipee,  and  Blackstrap,  are  visible  here. 
The  wind  sweeps  across  the  summit  of  Pleasant  Mountain  with  a  velocity  close  to 
50  miles  an  hour,  and  sings  as  it  strikes  the  steel  framework  of  the  tower,  which 
rises  50  feet  into  the  air.  The  temperature  at  the  top  of  the  mountain  is  20  degrees 
below  that  at  the  base. 

At  54  m.  is  a  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  a  boulder,  0.3  m.  (L),  at  the  northern  end  of  Lovewell  Pond, 
marking  the  Site  of  Love-well's  Fight,  May  8,  1725,  when  a  company  of  33  Massa- 
chusetts Rangers  under  Captain  John  Lovewell  battled  from  dawn  to  dusk  with  80 
Pequawkets  led  by  Paugus.  During  this  battle,  both  the  chief  and  Captain  Love- 
well  were  killed  and  afterward  the  Indians  abandoned  their  seat  at  Pequawket  and 
fled  to  Canada. 

At  55.4  m.  (R)  is  Jockey  Cap,  a  gigantic  2oo-foot  boulder  near  the  roadside. 
At  56.1  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  5  (see  Tour  15). 

FRYEBURG  (alt.  415,  Fryeburg  Town,  pop.  1582)  (see  Tour  15),  56  m., 
is  at  a  junction  with  State  5  (see  Tour  15). 

At  58.1  m.  US  302  crosses  the  New  Hampshire  Line,  4  miles  east  of 
Center  Conway,  N.H. 


TOUR     19:        From   PORTLAND  to   NEW  HAMPSHIRE 
LINE  (Freedom),  42.8  m.t  State  25. 


Via  Westbrook,  Gorham,  Standish,  Cornish,  Kezar  Falls,  and  Porter. 
Two-lane  hard-surfaced  roadbed. 

WEST  of  the  industrial  communities  of  Cumberland  Mills  and  West- 
brook,  State  25  runs  through  a  farming  country  with  well-kept  houses; 
crops  in  this  vicinity  are  raised  mainly  for  home  use,  with  a  small  surplus 
for  sale  in  local  markets. 

The  countryside  to  the  west  is  well  wooded  with  pine,  white  birch,  and 
some  hemlock.  In  mid-April,  hiding  under  dead  leaves  in  the  woods,  are 
quantities  of  trailing  arbutus;  a  few  weeks  later  appear  the  pale-green 
stems  and  faint-yellow  cup-like  blossoms  of  wild  oats,  and  as  the  season 
progresses,  ladyslippers,  and  benjamins.  In  June  great  beds  of  lilies-of- 
the- valley  are  found  near  the  edges  of  the  woods.  Hidden  in  the  grass,  yet 
spreading  their  perfume,  sweet  wild  strawberries  ripen  as  June  draws  to  a 
close.  The  broad  fields  bloom  in  early  spring,  first  with  blue-white 
anemones,  then  with  dandelions,  buttercups,  white  daisies  and  black- 
eyed-susans,  and  in  late  summer  with  heavy  growths  of  red  clover  and 
goldenrod. 

PORTLAND  (alt.  80,  pop.  70,810)  (see  PORTLAND),  at  Longfellow 
Square,  0  m.,  is  at  the  junctions  of  US  1  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a),  US  302  (see 
Tour  18),  and  State  26  (see  Tour  14). 

CUMBERLAND  MILLS  (alt.  70,  Westbrook  Town),  5.1  m.  The  fine 
brick  buildings  extending  along  the  dam  and  both  sides  of  the  Presumpscot 
River  are  the  S.  D.  Warren  Paper  Company  Mills  (open  to  public), 
Cumberland  St.  The  plant,  established  in  1852,  has  grown  from  one  little 
frame  building  that  turned  out  less  than  five  tons  of  the  finished  product 
daily,  to  the  present  great  brick  and  concrete  structure  with  nearly  60 
acres  of  floor  space,  holding  large,  modern  paper-making  machines  having 
a  combined  average  daily  production  of  275  tons. 

Right  on  Cumberland  St.  to  a  dirt  road;  on  this  road  is  HALIDON,  2  m.,  on  the 
northern  bank  of  the  Presumpscot.  It  is  one  of  several  single -taxing  communities 
founded  by  Fiske  Warren,  the  paper  manufacturer.  Mr.  Warren  has  the  con- 
trolling interest  of  over  200  acres  of  the  area;  the  tenants  secure  99-year  leases,  pay 
the  property  tax  of  the  City  of  Westbrook  annually,  and  turn  over  the  receipt  to 
the  trustees,  as  the  only  payment  of  land  rental.  Halidon  has  its  own  community 
meetings  six  times  a  year  and  elects  officers;  inhabitants  of  both  sexes  from  the  age 
of  15  may  vote. 

WESTBROOK  (alt.  85,  pop.  10,807),  6.1  m.,  is  an  industrial  city^with  a 
large  French-Canadian  population.  In  its  early  days  the  community  was 
called  Saccarrappa.  Westbrook  and  peering  were  taken  from  the  town  of 
Falmouth  in  1814  and  incorporated  in  Westbrook  Town. 


TOUR  19 :   From  Portland  to  Freedom  383 

The  Dana  Warp  Mills  (open  to  public),  347  Brown  St.,  established  in  1866, 
is  one  of  the  important  cotton  manufacturing  plants  of  Maine. 

The  Haskell  Silk  Mill  (open  to  public),  98  Bridge  St.,  makes  both  rayon 
and  high-quality  silk  goods. 

The  Bean  House  (R),  on  Bridge  St.  opposite  the  Dana  Warp  Mills,  a 
three-story  dwelling  built  in  1805  and  divided  into  apartments,  has  a 
spiral  staircase  of  great  beauty,  above  which  is  a  domed  skylight. 

Rudy  Vallee,  the  orchestra  leader,  was  brought  to  Westbrook  when  a 

young  child  and  lived  on  Monroe  Avenue.  His  father  was  the  proprietor 

of  a  local  drugstore  for  many  years. 

Benjamin  Paul  Akers  (see  The  Arts'),  sculptor  of  the  'Dead  Pearl-Diver' 

(see  PORTLAND),  was  born  here  in  1825. 

GORHAM  (alt.  220,  Gorham  Town,  pop.  3035)  (see  Tour  11),  10.5  m.,  is 

at  a  junction  with  State  4  (see  Tour  11). 

WEST  GORHAM  (alt.  247,  Gorham  Town),  13.5  m. 

The  Prentiss  House  (open],  in  village  Center  (L),  a  two-and-a-half-story 
structure  with  hip  roof,  was  the  boyhood  home  of  Seargent  Smith  Pren- 
tiss, who  was  born  in  Portland  in  1808,  and  became  a  lawyer.  He  went  to 
the  South  in  1832  and  formed  a  partnership  with  John  I.  Guion;  this  firm 
attained  a  national  reputation,  in  part  because  of  Prentiss'  oratorical 
ability. 

On  the  edge  of  the  village,  left  of  the  highway,  is  Homeland  Farms  (open), 
with  a  fine  group  of  white  painted  buildings;  cattle  of  this  dairy  farm  were 
imported  from  the  Isle  of  Jersey. 

STANDISH  (alt.  415,  Standish  Town,  pop.  1317),  17.7  m.,  a  pretty 
village,  settled  in  the  late  1750*3,  was  named  in  honor  of  Miles  Standish. 
It  lies  in  an  area  principally  devoted  to  orcharding. 

The  Marrett  House  (private),  next  to  the  post  office  on  the  south  side,  a 
large  two-and-a-half-story  white  house,  built  in  1789,  became  the  home  of 
the  Reverend  Daniel  Marrett,  on  his  appointment  to  the  parish  after 
ordination.  During  the  War  of  1812  when  it  was  feared  that  Portland 
would  be  taken  by  the  British,  the  coin  from  Portland  banks  was  hauled 
by  six  oxen  to  Parson  Marrett's  house,  where  it  was  stored  in  a  room  the 
foundation  of  which  had  been  strengthened  for  the  purpose.  The  heavy 
locks,  placed  on  the  doors  of  the  house  at  this  time  to  protect  the  treasure, 
are  still  in  place. 

The  frame  Unitarian  Church  (R),  built  in  1806,  is  an  example  of  the  sim- 
plicity of  early  church  architecture  in  Maine.  It  is  now  painted  brick  red, 
and  has  a  square  towered  belfry  and  old-fashioned  box  pews.  . 

Right  from  Standish  on  a  good  dirt  road  to  Sebago  R.R.  Station,  3  m.,  the  starting 
point  for  a  delightful  boat  trip  through  Sebago  Lake  (Ind.:  'a  stretch  of  water') 
and  the  Songo  River  into  Long  Lake. 

Leaving  the  dock  near  the  Sebago  R.R.  Station,  the  small  boat  swings  north 
toward  the  broader  section  of  Sebago  Lake  (see  Tour  18).  On  all  sides  tree-clad  hills 
climb  abruptly  from  rocky  shores;  Rattlesnake  Mountain  gradually  looms  into 


384  High  Roads  and  Low  Roads 

view  (R).  Toward  the  west  the  scenery  becomes  more  rugged,  with  the  Saddleback 
Mountains  plainly  visible.  On  a  clear  day,  the  sometimes  snow-capped  summits  of 
the  White  Mountains  are  outlined  in  the  distance. 

After  an  hour's  ride  the  boat  swings  into  the  waters  of  the  Songo  (Ind. :  '  the  outlet ') 
River,  rounding  sharp  bends,  and  pushing  through  reeds  among  which  are  often 
seen  the  sleek,  brown  bodies  of  muskrats,  darting  swiftly  past  the  boat's  prow.  On 
either  side,  the  river  banks  slope  gently  to  the  hills  covered  with  pine  and  hemlock. 
The  boat  passes  through  several  locks  during  the  i*^-hom  run.  After  a  trip  up  this 
river,  many  years  ago,  Longfellow  wrote  his  poem,  'Songo  River': 

'Nowhere  such  a  devious  stream, 
Save  in  fancy  or  in  dream, 
Winding  slow  through  bush  and  brake, 
Links  together  lake  and  lake.' 

Entering  Long  Lake,  a  charming  body  of  water  with  cottages,  hotels,  and  summer 
camps  scattered  along  its  shores,  the  boat  stops  at  NAPLES  (see  below). 

A  fork  of  roads  at  19.7  m.  is  known  as  Two  Trails.  State  25,  north  of 
this  point  was  the  Ossipee  Trail  used  by  the  Indians  for  travel  between 
Maine  and  New  Hampshire.  The  tribes  of  the  two  areas,  bound  by  blood- 
ties,  made  frequent  inter-tribal  visits.  The  Pequawket  Trail  (R)  was  a 
short-cut  from  the  lower  Saco  to  the  Indian  village  of  Pequawket  (see 
Tour  15). 

At  23.2  m.  a  bridge  spans  the  Saco  River,  here  wide  and  turbulent  in  its 
broken  rock  bed,  and  a  spot  where  the  waters  teem  with  logs  during  the 
spring  drives.  Only  five  million  logs  were  driven  down  the  Saco  in  1935  as 
compared  with  the  60  million  average  of  former  years. 

EAST  LIMINGTON  (alt.  240,  Limington  Town),  23.6  m. 

Left  from  East  Limington  on  a  tarred  road  to  the  Little  Ossipee  River,  0.3  m.,  on  the 
northern  bank  of  which  is  the  Site  of  an  Indian  Village.  Surrounded  by  woods,  this 
permanent  camp  had  a  plentiful  supply  of  fresh  meat,  which,  with  ground  corn, 
formed  the  basic  food  stuff  of  the  Indians.  They  stretched  and  tanned  animal  pelts 
for  clothing,  retaining  the  fur  on  their  outer  winter  garments.  The  squaws  set 
snares  for  smaller  animals,  and  in  spring  collected  maple  sap  in  bark  containers, 
boiling  it  down  to  sugar  in  much  the  same  manner  as  is  done  today.  After  planting 
their  corn  the  whole  population  went  down  the  river  to  the  sea,  where  the  winter 
supply  of  fish  was  caught  and  smoked. 

At  0.4  m.  (L)  is  the  Chase  Sawmill,  developed  from  the  first  small  mill  built  by 
Deacon  Amos  Chase  in  1773  on  the  same  site. 

At  0.5  m.  (R)  is  the  Chase  House  (private),  deep  set  in  a  large  lot  and  reached  by  a 
curving,  maple-bordered  driveway.  The  original  plans  for  this  large  two-story 
octagon-shaped  house  surmounted  by  an  octagonal  cupola,  which  was  built  in 
1810,  were  drawn  by  Mrs.  Chase  on  an  eight-sided  collar  box,  which  was  the  source 
of  Captain  Chase's  inspiration  for  the  house.  The  builder  found  it  necessary  to 
change  the  arrangement  of  rooms  on  Mrs.  Chase's  plans,  as  she  had  neglected  to 
include  a  staircase  in  her  design.  On  each  of  the  eight  facades  of  the  house  are 
twin  windows  in  both  stories.  Captain  Josiah  Chase,  father  of  the  present  owner, 
was  a  whaler  out  of  New  Bedford,  Mass.,  and  the  house  contains  many  mementos 
of  his  seafaring  days.  There  are  several  whales'  teeth  carved  and  engraved  and 
filled  with  colored  inks;  a  small  collection  of  shells;  a  reproduction  of  the  Ben- 
jamin Russell  drawing  'Sperm  Whaling';  and  photographs  of  the  Maori  Chief 
Tomati  Waka,  and  of  Thakomlan,  King  of  the  Fiji  Islands. 

NORTH  LIMINGTON  (alt.  310,  Limington  Town),  24.9  m. 

Left  from  North  Limington  on  State  11  is  LIMINGTON  VILLAGE  (alt.  462, 


TOUR  19:   From  Portland  to  Freedom  385 

Town  of  Limington,  pop.  747),  2.1  m.,  on  high  land  overlooking  (W)  a  narrow 
valley  and  high  wooded  hills. 

On  the  Main  Street  (R)  is  the  Me  Arthur  House  (private),  a  beautiful  two-story 
weathered  structure  with  gambrel  roof  and  large  central  chimney,  built  in  1797. 
Across  the  front  lawn  run  a  row  of  large  elms  and  a  long  line  of  spaced  granite  posts. 
To  the  rear  is  a  large  apple  orchard. 

The  first  floor  of  the  interior  is  finished  in  black  walnut.  Among  the  old  furnishings 
in  the  house  are:  four-poster  beds,  one  of  which  is  canopied  with  fine  old  lace;  a 
small  covered  cradle  that  has  been  in  the  possession  of  the  McArthur  family  for 
several  generations;  and  a  small  piano.  There  is  also  a  collection  of  rare  editions  of 
old  books,  some  dating  back  to  the  i6th  century. 

Among  treasured  family  possessions  are  a  tomahawk  given  by  Sitting  Bull  to  Mal- 
colm McArthur,  graduate  of  West  Point,  1865,  and  a  letter  from  Malcolm  to  his 
mother  in  which  he  tells  of  going  on  expeditions  under  General  Custer. 

General  William  McArthur  in  1861  organized  the  8th  Maine  Regiment,  73  Liming- 
ton men  enlisting  for  service  in  the  Civil  War.  After  the  war,  he  retired  to  his  home 
to  practice  law  and  to  cultivate  an  extensive  apple  orchard.  He  would  walk 
through  the  fields  with  a  cane  and  whenever  the  cane  touched  the  ground,  there  he 
would  plant  a  tree.  When  the  trees  were  grown,  every  straight  one,  to  the  amaze- 
ment of  his  neighbors,  was  cut  down  because,  said  the  General,  'a  straight  tree  is 
easier  to  bring  up  to  bear  good  fruit  than  a  crooked  one.' 

CORNISH  (alt.  355,  Cornish  Town,  pop.  763)  (see  Tour  15),  32.7  m.,  is  at 
a  junction  with  State  5  (see  Tour  15). 

KEZAR  FALLS  (alt.  381,  Parsonsfield  Town,  pop.  897,  and  Town  of 
Porter),  36.5  m.,  a  good-sized  settlement  of  neat  small  homes,  is  divided 
into  two  sections  by  Ossipee  River.  It  has  a  village  corporation,  though 
the  residents  on  opposite  sides  of  the  river  are  taxpayers  and  voters  in 
separate  towns. 

The  bustling  village  centers  around  the  Kezar  Falls  Woolen  Company 
Mill  (open  by  permit)  (R)  along  the  river,  which  is  wide  at  this  point  and 
held  back  by  a  long,  curved  Dam  (L) . 

PORTER  (alt.  407,  Porter  Town,  pop.  883),  39  m. 

Right  from  Porter  on  a  dirt  road  to  the  Bullockite  Church  (open  last  Sun.  in  May 
only),  2  m.  (L).  In  the  early  iSoo's  a  religious  battle  raged  in  this  locality,  causing 
the  Baptist  denomination  to  be  split.  The  dissenters,  who  were  fundamentalists 
and  led  by  Elder  Jeremiah  Bullock  and  Elder  John  Buzzell,  emulated  the  example 
of  the  Disciples  and  for  years  the  rite  of  washing  one  another's  feet  as  a  mark  of 
humility  was  always  a  part  of  their  services. 

The  severe  simplicity  of  the  large  two-story  building,  which  they  erected  in  1828, 
and  the  bleakness  of  its  rough  plastered  walls  and  floor  are  relieved  only  by  the 
beauty  of  the  wainscoting  of  pumpkin  pine,  which  has  grown  brown  and  satinlike 
with  age.  Square  box  pews,  each  with  a  small  gate  opening  on  the  aisle,  divide  the 
floor  of  the  church  and  face  the  high  platform  at  one  end.  Here  beneath  the  long 
fan-shaped  window  sat  the  elders,  a  delicate  railing  enclosing  the  benches  reserved 
for  them.  When  the  church  was  built  no  provision  was  made  for  heat  as  it  was  the 
old-time  belief  that  the  love  of  God  shown  in  the  fervor  of  the  congregation  was 
sufficient  to  raise  the  temperature  to  a  comfortable  point.  Later  on  the  warmth  of 
the  meetings  must  have  waned  for  a  stove  was  set  up  downstairs  and  now  many 
lengths  of  pipe  twist  along  the  ceiling  under  the  gallery. 

At  42.8  m.  State  25  crosses  the  New  Hampshire  Line,  2.3  miles  east  of 
Freedom,  N.H. 


ISLAND      TOURS 


OF  ALL  Maine's  physical  attractions,  perhaps  her  islands  hold  the 
greatest  share  of  scenic  riches.  Thousands  in  number,  they  border  her 
coast  in  a  long  fringe  of  interdependent  but  individual  units,  each  with 
distinct  features  that  make  it  stand  out  by  itself.  They  have  always 
been  prosperous  with  the  bounty  of  the  sea,  and  many  of  them  are  still 
important  fishing  and  lobstering  centers.  Others  have  achieved  fame  as 
shipping  ports,  or  for  some  peculiar  product  of  their  own  —  as  for 
example,  the  granite  of  the  Penobscot  Bay  islands.  Today  they  are 
principally  summer  resort  centers,  and  from  Casco  Bay  to  Passama- 
quoddy  Bay  they  are  frequented  by  city  folk  who  desire  temporary  re- 
treat from  the  stress  of  modern  living  to  the  simplicity,  privacy,  and  in- 
dependence of  insular  life.  More  and  more  generally,  artists  and  writers, 
yachting  and  fishing  enthusiasts,  sufferers  from  hay  fever  and  other  ail- 
ments, are  acquiring  summer  homes  on  the  coastal  islands  of  Maine. 

The  tours  described  below  may  conveniently  be  taken  from  leading 
mainland  points,  and  include  some  of  the  larger  insular  population  centers, 
prominent  summer  resorts,  and  islands  of  special  scenic,  historical,  or 
legendary  interest.  While  numerous  sunset  or  moonlight  sails  may  be 
taken  out  of  Portland  and  other  ports,  the  following  daylight  cruises  were 
selected  as  providing  opportunity  during  the  leisure  of  the  voyage  to 
enjoy  some  of  the  great  body  of  descriptive  material  and  native  lore 
relating  to  almost  every  island.  One  should  make  inquiry  at  the  various 
wharfs  regarding  steamboat  schedules,  as  the  service  is  variable. 

TOUR  1:  PORTLAND  to  THE  ISLANDS  OF  CASCO  BAY 

A.  To  Orr's  Island,  via  Peak's,  Little  and  Great  Diamond,  Long,  Little  and 
Great  Chebeague,  and  Cliff  Islands,  South  Harpswell,  and  Bailey  Island. 

Time:  about  2>£  hours. 

B.  To  Gurnet,  by  same  route  as  above  to  Bailey  Island.  Time:  about  3  hours. 

C.  To  Birch  Island,  via  Cousin's  and  Bustin's  Islands.   Time:  about  2  hours. 
Casco  Bay  Lines.  Custom  House  Wharf,  Commercial  St.  (see  PORTLAND}. 

The  mainland  shore  of  Casco  Bay  stretches  from  the  end  of  Cape  Eliza- 
beth on  the  south  to  Bald  Head  at  Cape  Small  on  the  north.  These  two 
points  are  more  than  twenty  miles  apart  in  a  direct  line;  and  between 
them,  the  lighthouse  at  Halfway  Rock  marks  the  center  of  the  bay's 
outer  border.  The  island-dotted  waters  of  the  bay  coyer  an  area  of 
approximately  200  square  miles.  Geologists  say  that  this  was  once  the 
mouth  of  the  Androscoggin  River,  and  that  the  sandy  inner  islands  were 


Portland  to  Orr's  Island  387 

built  up  of  sediment  brought  down  by  the  stream  and  deposited  upon 
jutting  reefs.  Finally  blocking  up  its  entire  mouth  in  this  fashion,  the 
river  eventually  deviated  to  its  present  channel,  joining  with  the  Kenne- 
bec  at  Merrymeeting  Bay.  Steamers,  ferries,  small  motor  and  sail  craft 
ply  the  channels  that  weave  among  Casco's  many  islands,  most  of  which 
are  heavily  wooded,  with  wild  cliffs  and  crescents  of  smooth  beach.  Al- 
though any  native  of  the  bay  region  will  say  that  the  islands  number  365, 
one  for  every  day  in  the  year,  by  official  count  there  are  actually  but  222 
'big  enough  for  a  man  to  get  out  and  stand  on';  and  of  these  only  138 
have  sufficient  acreage  to  be  classed  as  good-sized  islands.  Besides  those 
counted,  there  are,  of  course,  innumerable  rocks  and  ledges,  shoals  and 
'  knobs '  —  so  many,  in  fact,  that  the  eastern  end  of  the  bay  is  considered 
one  of  the  most  difficult  sections  of  the  entire  coast  to  navigate.  Single 
islands  were  generally  named  after  early  settlers,  or  they  have  retained 
their  Indian  designations.  A  few  names,  however,  attest  to  the  originality 
and  imagination  of  the  first  inhabitants  —  as  for  example,  Junk  of  Pork, 
Pound  of  Tea,  Stepping  Stones,  Brown  Cow,  and  Goosenest.  Many  of  the 
names  are  used  more  than  once :  there  are  four  Ram  Islands,  two  Gushing 
Islands,  two  Crow  Islands,  and  several  Pumpkin  Knobs. 

These  islands  abound  in  pirate  lore,  Indian  legends,  and  stories  of  the 
struggles  between  early  colonists  and  the  red  man.  The  tales  of  Casco 
Bay  have  added  their  bright  coloring  to  the  tapestry  of  American  litera- 
ture. Whether  the  scene  of  a  bloody  battle  or  the  former  habitation  of  a 
famous  chief,  the  site  of  an  early  settlement  or  a  place  of  buried  treasure, 
nearly  every  island  can  boast  some  exciting  history  of  its  own.  And  all 
possess  in  varying  degree  the  rugged  and  sparkling  beauty  peculiar  to  the 
northern  shores.  Upon  the  larger  islands  there  are  summer  colonies, 
summer  hotels,  and  the  villages  of  year-round  inhabitants,  most  of  them 
fishermen. 

A .    Portland  to  Orr's  Island 

This  is  a  smooth-water  trip  of  44  miles,  with  stops  at  nine  islands  and 
opportunity  to  enjoy  a  memorable  shore  dinner  at  one  of  the  hotels  near 
the  steamboat  wharf. 

From  Custom  House  Wharf  the  steamer  swings  out  into  the  water  traffic 
of  Portland  Harbor,  leaving  behind  it  the  activity  of  the  water  front  — 
the  busy  docks,  the  noise  of  Commercial  Street  with  its  trucks  and  trains, 
and  over  all  the  shrill  cries  of  the  scavenging  gulls.  Soon  the  boat  passes 
HOG  ISLAND  (L)  with  its  formidable-looking  Fort  Gorges,  in  a  com- 
manding position  on  a  reef,  guarding  the  upper  harbor  entrances  as  well 
as  the  main  ship  channel.  Completed  about  1865,  this  bleak  fortress  has 
not  been  garrisoned  for  many  years,  for  its  short  range  guns  made  its 
period  of  usefulness  a  brief  one. 

Toward  the  right  is  HOUSE  ISLAND,  on  which  stands  Fort  Scammell, 
another  old  and  abandoned  harbor  defense.  As  early  as  1661,  House 
Island  was  known  by  its  present  name,  and  an  early  blockhouse  was 
erected  here.  During  the  rebuilding  of  the  island  fortification,  early  in  the 


388  Island  Tours 


Civil  War,  the  original  blockhouse,  topped  by  a  carved  wooden  eagle  with 
extended  wings,  was  replaced  by  the  present  fort  —  named  for  Colonel 
Alexander  Scammell,  a  gallant  soldier  of  the  Revolution. 

Rising  in  the  background,  beyond  House  Island,  is  the  seamed  granite 
shore  of  GUSHING  ISLAND.  Its  history  dates  back  to  1623,  when  Cap- 
tain Christopher  Levett  took  possession  of  its  wild  tree-covered  area  and 
built  a  strongly  fortified  house  on  its  northern  extremity.  Gushing  Island 
is  now  the  year-round  home  of  many  Portland  people,  and  has  an  active 
summer  colony. 

Several  minutes  out  from  Portland,  the  steamer  docks  at  PEAK'S 
ISLAND  (alt.  45,  Insular  Ward  of  Portland).  With  its  summer  hotels 
and  cottage  inns,  churches,  a  hospital,  and  stores,  this  is  more  densely 
populated,  both  by  permanent  and  by  summer  residents,  than  any  other 
island  in  the  Bay.  In  the  early  nineteenth  century,  Peak's  was  developed 
into  one  of  the  most  popular  recreational  centers  in  the  country,  and 
many  nationally  known  figures  have  summered  here.  Its  woodland  trails, 
well  cultivated  fields,  and  ledgy  shores  are  colored  with  a  history  dating 
back  to  the  early  days  of  Falmouth,  when  the  island  was  owned  by 
Michael  Mitton,  son-in-law  of  Portland's  first  settler,  George  Cleeve 
(see  PORTLAND).  Mitton  gained  renown  as  a  huntsman  and  fowler, 
and  was  much  given  to  relating  in  detail  the  adventures  that  befell  him. 
Perhaps  the  most  amazing  was  his  tale  of  the  triton  or  merman  who  swam 
up  and  grasped  the  side  of  his  boat,  whereupon  he  seized  a  hatchet  and 
with  a  single  blow  severed  the  hands  of  the  son  of  Poseidon,  who  sank 
beneath  the  waves  and  was  seen  no  more  in  the  waters  of  Casco  Bay. 
But  the  finny  hands  of  the  monster  remained  clinging  to  the  side  of  the 
boat,  and  it  was  only  with  difficulty  that  Mitton  pried  them  loose  and 
flung  them  into  the  sea. 

Longfellow's  poem,  'The  Wreck  of  the  Hesperus,'  is  based  upon  one  of  the 
major  tragedies  in  the  annals  of  Peak's  Island.  The  schooner  'Helen 
Eliza,'  caught  in  the  great  gale  of  1869,  was  driven  ashore  in  the  night  and 
ground  to  pieces  on  the  jutting  rocks.  Only  one  member  of  the  crew  of 
twelve  was  rescued — a  lad  who  had  previously  been  the  sole  survivor  of  a 
vessel  which  foundered  in  a  hurricane  off  the  West  Indies.  He  decided  to 
tempt  fate  no  further,  and  retired  from  the  sea  to  a  farm  in  New  Hamp- 
shire. There,  ironically  enough,  he  slipped  off  a  log  while  crossing  a  small 
stream  and  was  drowned. 

Leaving  Peak's  Island,  the  steamer  swings  in  a  northerly  direction,  to 
dock  at  LITTLE  DIAMOND  ISLAND  (alt.  27,  Insular  Ward  of  Port- 
land), one  of  the  prettiest  islands  hi  the  Bay.  It  was  formerly  used  as  a 
part-time  station  for  lighthouse  service,  and  is  connected  with  its  larger 
sister  island  of  Great  Diamond  by  a  narrow  sand  spit  which  is  covered  by 
water  at  high  tide. 

GREAT  DIAMOND  ISLAND  (alt.  39,  Insular  Ward  of  Portland), 
formerly  known  as  Hog  Island,  is  the  next  stopping  place.  It  has  a  select 
cottage  colony,  which  maintains  an  excellent  golf  course.  Great  Dia- 
mond's precipitous  sea  walls  fringed  about  with  golden  seaweed  bound  a 


Portland  to  Orr's  Island  389 

greatly  diversified  surface  —  deep  ravines,  ragged  elevations,  and  green 
slopes  extending  to  the  shore.  On  the  east  side,  commanding  Hussey's 
Sound,  is  Fort  McKinley  (open),  a  sub-post  of  Portland  Harbor  defenses, 
used  as  a  summer  training  post  by  R.O.T.C.,  O.R.C.,  and  C.M.T.C. 
units. 

The  steamer  now  enters  Hussey's  Sound,  a  water  thoroughfare  between 
the  two  Diamonds  and  Long  Island.  Straight  ahead  in  the  distance  are 
Clapboard,  Basket,  and  Sturdivant,  three  low-lying  isles;  while  to  the  left, 
in  the  lee  of  Great  Diamond,  is  Cow  Island. 

LONG  ISLAND  (alt.  40,  Insular  Ward  of  Portland),  at  which  the 
steamer  makes  three  stops,  is  one  of  the  larger  and  most  scenic  in  the 
island  group.  Excellent  roads  traverse  its  1000  acres,  which  were  well 
known  to  the  Abnaki  Indians  long  before  white  men  came  to  the  Casco 
Bay  region.  Stone  implements,  arrow  heads  of  flint,  and  shell  heaps 
found  here  bear  testimony  to  the  early  red  men's  occupation.  Ragged 
coast,  sandy  beaches,  pine  groves,  and  open  fields,  with  shady  paths  and 
excellent  roads,  make  walking  a  pleasure  on  Long  Island.  The  hotels  and 
inns  here  boast  of  the  medicinal  properties  of  the  springs  among  the 
ledges. 

Passing  along  the  shoreline  (R)  of  Long  Island,  the  steamer  enters  the 
waters  of  Chandler  Cove  to  dock  at  LITTLE  CHEBEAGUE  ISLAND 
(alt.  55,  Cumberland  Town),  whose  open  fields  run  down  to  sandy 
beaches.  It  lies  a  short  distance  southwest  from  GREAT  CHEBEAGUE 
ISLAND  (alt.  70,  Cumberland  Town),  where  the  steamer  usually  stops 
on  its  return  trip.  This,  the  second  largest  island  in  Casco  Bay,  has 
summer  hotels,  a  nine-hole  golf  course,  tennis  courts,  croquet  grounds, 
and  bathing  and  boating  facilities.  Numerous  fine  white-sand  bathing 
beaches  lie  tucked  in  between  its  rocky  cliffs,  and  many  summer  cottages 
are  scattered  over  its  2000  acres.  Twenty  miles  of  gravel  road,  bright 
with  clam  shells,  wind  through  fragrant  pine  and  spruce  groves,  and 
through  broad  fields  where  many  varieties  of  wild  flowers,  ferns,  mosses, 
and  berries  grow  in  profusion.  From  its-  occasional  eminences,  the  other 
islands  of  the  Bay,  with  long  reaches  of  water  between  them,  may  be  seen 
stretching  away  as  if  in  ordered  arrangement;  and  from  its  western  end  at 
sunset,  the  reflected  coloring  in  the  water  forms  a  striking  foreground 
for  Portland's  Munjoy  Hill,  on  the  mainland. 

Much  excitement  was  once  aroused  here  by  the  arrival  of  an  old  sailor 
who  claimed  to  have  been  one  of  a  pirate  crew  which  many  years  before 
had  landed  at  Chebeague  and  buried  a  great  treasure.  After  prowling 
around  for  a  time,  the  old  fellow  began  digging  in  a  secluded  part  of  the 
island.  Among  those  who  offered  to  assist  him  in  his  excavations  was  a 
young  man  of  the  island.  When  his  offer  was  curtly  refused,  the  latter 
leaped  over  the  rope  with  which  the  old  man  had  enclosed  the  spot  where 
he  was  digging;  whereupon  the  treasure  seeker,  in  a  voice  quaking  with 
anger,  cried : '  I  cah1  on  God  and  you  people  to  witness  that  within  a  year 
this  young  fool  will  be  tied  in  knots  even  as  I  could  tie  this  rope.'  No  one 
remembers  now  whether  any  treasure  was  found,  but  (as  the  story  goes) 


39°  Island  Tours 


in  due  time  the  young  man  received  a  severe  drenching  while  out  fishing, 
and  was  confined  to  his  bed  with  an  agonizing  malady  which  drew  up 
his  arms  and  legs  as  if  '  tied  in  knots ' ;  and  when  he  died,  soon  after,  it 
was  necessary  to  break  the  bones  of  his  limbs  in  order  to  get  his  body 
into  the  casket. 

Leaving  Great  Chebeague,  the  steamer  rounds  the  tip  of  Long  Island 
(R)  to  enter  Luckse  Sound,  with  the  small  HOPE  ISLAND  lying  straight 
ahead.  This  latter  was  purchased  in  the  early  part  of  the  present  century 
by  Senator  George  W.  Elkins  of  Pennsylvania,  who  built  a  large  mansion 
on  it,  75  feet  above  the  sea.  At  present  Hope  Island  is  the  property  of  a 
private  club;  the  clubhouse  may  be  seen  at  the  southern  end  of  the 
island. 

CLIFF  ISLAND  (alt.  38,  Insular  Ward  of  Portland),  marked  by  saw- 
tooth reefs,  great  coves,  low  sand  bars,  and  beautiful  pine  groves,  is  an 
outlying  island  resort.  Prominent  among  the  legends  kept  alive  here  by 
year-round  residents  is  the  story  of  Captain  Keiff,  a  notorious  smuggler 
and  pirate,  who  lived  alone  on  the  island  in  a  log  hut,  and  who  on  stormy 
nights  would  drive  a  horse  with  a  lantern  attached  to  its  neck  up  and 
down  the  shore  to  decoy  passing  vessels  into  the  narrow  channel,  where 
they  would  be  wrecked  on  the  treacherous  reefs.  From  this  practice  he 
salvaged  enough  of  the  cargoes  to  net  a  considerable  income.  A  grassy 
knoll  rising  above  the  island  road  where  it  turns  into  a  deep  ravine  is  still 
called  Keifs  Garden  —  the  reputed  burying  ground  of  the  sailors  whose 
bodies  were  washed  ashore  from  the  wrecks  caused  by  Keiff's  false  signals. 
Close  by  is  JEWELL  ISLAND,  for  years  a  private  estate. 
Leaving  Cliff  Island,  the  steamer  swings  northeast.  To  the  right  lies 
EAGLE  ISLAND,  where  lived  the  late  Robert  E.  Peary.  The  Admiral's 
residence,  a  treasure-house  of  trophies  from  foreign  lands,  perches  on  a 
rocky  promontory  facing  the  mainland. 

Ahead  is  the  long  slender  bit  of  mainland  known  as  Harpswell  Neck, 
where  the  boat  enters  Potts  Harbor  to  dock  at  SOUTH  HARPSWELL 
(see  Tour  ID). 

From  South  Harpswell  the  steamer  rounds  Potts  Point,  the  tip  of  Harps- 
well  Neck,  with  HASKELL  ISLAND  lying  to  the  right.  A  series  of 
strange  events  took  place  on  this  fertile  island  about  sixty  years  ago, 
when  it  became  overrun  by  rats.  An  old  lobsterman  named  Humphrey, 
who  had  .built  a  shack  on  the  shore,  seemed  to  live  amicably  enough  with 
the  rats,  even  though  they  continually  stole  the  fish  from  his  bait  barrel. 
But  when  winter  came  on,  Humphrey's  friends  warned  him  of  the  danger 
of  living  alone  with  only  rats  for  company.  Nevertheless  he  persisted  in 
staying.  One  day,  Harpswell  fishermen  noticed  that  no  smoke  was  rising 
from  the  chimney  of  the  little  shack  and  they  could  see  no  one  stirring  on 
the  island,  so  they  rowed  out  to  investigate.  When  they  opened  Hum- 
phrey's door,  they  were  met  by  a  squealing  swarm  of  rats.  Driving  them 
away,  the  men  entered  the  cabin  —  to  find  that  the  old  lobsterman  had 
been  eaten  in  his  bunk.  The  horrified  citizens  of  Harpswell  and  the  neigh- 
boring islands  armed  themselves  with  sticks  and  clubs  and  converged 


Portland  to  Orr's  Island  391 

upon  Haskell  Island.  When  they  left  they  were  satisfied  that  every  rodent 
there  had  been  exterminated.  Yet  next  spring  the  rats  were  as  numerous 
as  ever. 

But  it  was  not  long  before  Harpswell  residents  again  saw  smoke  rising 
from  the  chimney  of  the  hut  where  Humphrey  had  lived.  Two  young 
fishermen,  Wallace  and  Bruce  Mills  from  North  Harpswell,  had  set  up  an 
establishment  on  Haskell,  bringing  with  them  for  companionship  and 
protection  a  dozen  or  more  very  husky  cats.  The  war  began.  At  first 
the  cats  had  the  worst  of  it,  but  they  lived  to  emerge  triumphant.  They 
were  almost  as  prolific  as  the  rats;  and,  fed  on  fish  and  cared  for  by  the 
Mills  boys,  they  and  their  progeny  grew  to  a  size  and  strength  unheard  of 
among  mainland  cats.  It  was  not  long  before  the  last  rat  met  his  fate. 
But  not  only  the  rats  disappeared  —  Haskell,  once  a  paradise  of  song- 
birds, became  silent  except  for  nightly  yowls.  The  cats  increased  in 
number,  and  Wallace  and  Bruce  were  kept  more  than  busy  catching 
enough  fish  to  feed  them.  With  the  young  men  they  were  docile  enough, 
but  any  visitor  who  attempted  to  land  on  the  island  would  be  met  by 
several  hundred  spitting  and  clawing  furies. 

One  day  a  prospective  purchaser  from  the  city  approached  Haskell;  here 
in  this  green  and  pleasant  spot  he  saw  an  ideal  place  to  build  a  summer 
home.  But  he  did  not  land  on  the  island;  in  fact,  he  left  rather  hurriedly. 
The  owner  of  the  island  told  Wallace  and  Bruce  that  something  would 
have  to  be  done.  They  were  only  squatters,  and  they  and  their  cats  had  no 
legal  right  to  usurp  the  island.  But  the  boys  would  do  nothing.  Finally, 
however,  they  arose  one  morning  to  find  an  army  of  dead  cats  stretched 
before  the  shack.  Someone  had  come  in  the  night  and  poisoned  them. 
The  Mills  boys  were  broken-hearted.  They  disappeared,  and  no  one 
knew  where  they  went.  But  never  since  has  a  cat  been  seen  on  Haskell 
Island  —  or  a  rat. 

The  steamer  enters  Mericoneag  Sound  to  dock  at  BAILEY  ISLAND 
(see  Tour  ID) .  Of  all  the  island  treasure  stories,  perhaps  the  most  satisfy- 
ing is  one  told  of  a  farmer-fisherman  of  Bailey  Island,  John  Wilson  by 
name.  He  was  an  impecunious  and  not  overly  ambitious  soul,  who  one 
day  surprised  his  neighbors  mightily  by  sailing  home  from  Boston  in  a 
handsome  new  sloop  and  buying  the  finest  farm  on  Bailey.  He  set  him- 
self up  in  generous  style,  married,  produced  a  fine  family,  and  became  a 
leader  in  his  community.  The  reason  for  this  sudden  rise  in  life  was 
finally  revealed  by  Wilson  after  many  years.  He  had  been  out  duck- 
hunting,  and  a  bird  he  had  shot  fell  on  a  distant  weed-covered  ledge ;  as  he 
went  to  retrieve  it,  his  feet  gave  way  beneath  him,  and  he  sank  into  a 
cavity  between  two  rocks.  Investigating  this  cavity,  he  found  in  it  a 
heavy  iron  pot  filled  with  pieces  of  Spanish  gold.  Wilson  immediately 
took  his  find  to  Boston,  and  there  exchanged  it  for  $12,000  —  in  those 
days  a  large  fortune. 

The  steamer  leaves  Bailey  Island  dock,  to  enter  the  waters  of  Harpswell 
Sound,  an  arm  of  Casco  Bay  partially  enclosed  by  the  shores  of  Harpswell 
Neck  and  Bailey  and  Orr's  Islands.  These  waters  are  the  locale  of 


392  Island  Tours 


Whittier's  poem,  "The  Dead  Ship  of  Harpswell,'  based  on  a  legend  current 
among  Orr's  Island  folk. 

On  ORR'S  ISLAND  (see  Tour  ID),  which  is  connected  by  bridge  with 
Bailey  Island  and  with  the  mainland,  is  the  Pearl  House,  home  of  the 
heroine  of  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe's  novel  'The  Pearl  of  Orr's  Island.' 

B.     To  Gurnet 

This  cruise  follows  much  the  same  course  as  that  taken  on  the  trip  just 
described,  but  from  Bailey  Island  dock  the  steamer  continues  up  Meri- 
coneag  Sound  past  Orr's  Island.  Visible  between  the  latter  and  Bailey 
Island  in  the  far  distance  is  RAGGED  ISLAND,  the  summer  retreat  of 
Edna  St.  Vincent  Millay,  Maine's  famous  poet,  and  locale  of  the  Rever- 
end Elijah  Kellogg's  widely  read  'Elm  Island  Series'  of  books  for  boys. 
At  one  time,  because  of  its  isolated  position,  Ragged  Island  was  a  rendez- 
vous for  lawbreakers,  in  particular  for  a  gang  of  counterfeiters  who  made 
their  headquarters  here  for  several  years  until  finally  routed  by  Federal 
agents. 

The  steamer  follows  the  west  shore  of  Orr's  and  Sebascodegan  Islands  for 
several  miles,  turning  from  Harpswell  Sound  into  Harpswell  Cove,  then 
into  Long  Reach,  and  finally  arriving  at  Doughty  Cove,  where  it  docks  at 
GURNET  (see  Tour  ID),  so-called  from  a  narrow  tide  rip  where  the 
waters  of  the  cove  merge  violently  with  those  of  the  New  Meadows  River, 
a  tidal  river  extending  nearly  twenty  miles  inland  on  the  other  side  of 
Sebascodegan  (or  Great)  Island.  The  stop-over  at  Gurnet  provides 
opportunity  for  a  shore  dinner. 

C.     To  Birch  Island 

A  cruise  through  inner  Casco  Bay  and  its  islands  offers  vistas  of  the  main- 
land shores  and  glimpses  of  many  of  the  islands  touched  on  the  Orr's 
Island  trip.  Leaving  Portland,  the  steamer  swings  in  a  northeasterly 
course  past  Little  and  Great  Diamond,  with  MACKWORTH  ISLAND 
appearing  at  the  left  just  off  a  promontory  near  the  mouth  of  the  Pre- 
sumpscot  River.  In  1631,  this  bit  of  land  was  given  to  Arthur  Mack- 
worth  by  the  powerful  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges,  who  was  so  favorably  dis- 
posed toward  Mackworth  that  he  later  made  him  deputy  of  the  Bay.  In 
1808,  James  Rennie,  a  Scotsman,  bought  the  island  and  promptly  mort- 
gaged it  in  order  to  build  an  elaborate  mansion,  where  he  and  his  charming 
wife  entertained  lavishly.  Mackworth  Island  was  occupied  by  a  training 
camp  during  the  Civil  War;  but  since  1888  it  has  been  owned  by  the 
Baxter  family,  whose  members  include  the  late  James  P.  Baxter,  at  one 
time  Mayor  of  Portland,  and  his  son  Percival  P.  Baxter,  a  former  Gov- 
ernor of  Maine.  Opposite  Mackworth,  on  the  mainland  at  Martin  Point, 
are  the  buildings  of  the  U.S.  Marine  Hospital. 

Continuing  northeast,  the  steamer  skirts  the  mainland  shore,  where  many 
fine  residences  are  visible  from  deck.  About  ten  minutes  out  from  Port- 
land, the  boat  passes  long  and  narrow  CLAPBOARD  ISLAND  (L) 
which,  twenty-nine  years  after  all  the  area  north  and  south  of  it  had  been 


LANDSCAPE     AND     SEASCAPE 


MAINE  waters,  whether  stream,  lake,  or  sea,  and  Maine's 
mountains  and  her  valleys  are  known  widely  and  speak  for 
themselves  with  their  own  beauty.  It  is  the  natural  loveliness 
of  the  State,  in  many  places  quite  unspoiled,  which  is  the  chief 
cause  of  the  conversion  of  many  visitors  to  that  mystic  society 
of  worshipers  who  will  tell  you  that  east  of  the  Piscataqua 
even  the  very  air  is  'different/ 


SCREW  AUGER  FALLS,  ORAFTON 


TRANQUILLITY 


OFF  FOR  A  CANOE  TRIP,  MEGUNTICOOK  LAKE 


AS  SHADOWS  DEEPEN 


*£• 


V;: 

&& 

sh^f.mmt 


MOUNT  DESERT  ISLAND  AS  SEEN  FROM  SULLIVAN 


••-**  J 


PARLIN  POND,  SOMERSET  COUNTY 


WEST  QUODDY  HEADLIGHT  AT  SUNSET 


THUNDER  HOLE,  MOUNT  DESERT  ISLAND 


BAR  HARBOR  AND  FRENCHMAN'S  BAY,  FROM  CADILLAC  MOUNTAIN 


RIDING  THE  TIDE,  BOOTHBAY  HARBOR 


PORTLAND  HEADLIGHT 


SNOW  SCENE 


»JJ 


To  Birch  Island  393 


forcibly  annexed  by  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony  in  1651,  was  granted 
to  Walter  Gendall  by  the  North  Yarmouth  Communities  in  recognition  of 
his  services  at  the  time  of  the  first  settlement. 

To  the  right  lie  LITTLE  and  GREAT  DIAMOND  ISLANDS,  and  not 
far  beyond  them  is  tiny  BASKET  ISLAND,  with  STURDIVANT 
ISLAND  lying  in  the  background  a  little  offshore  from  Falmouth  Fore- 
side  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a).  The  next  stop  is  at  COUSIN'S  ISLAND  (alt.  29, 
Yarmouth  Town) .  This,  like  most  of  the  more  populous  islands  of  Casco 
Bay,  has  its  full  measure  of  blood-stained  history.  To  this  wild  spot, 
known  to  the  Indians  as  Susquescon,  John  Cousins  came  and  built  his 
home  in  1645.  Other  settlers  followed,  and  at  Cornfield  Point,  the  north 
end  of  the  island,  land  was  cleared  and  the  first  crops  sown.  Game  was 
plentiful  here,  especially  in  the  spring,  when  it  was  customary  for  the 
colonists  to  join  in  an  organized  hunt  of  the  wild  animals  which  had 
crossed  over  the  ice  from  the  mainland,  driving  them  across  the  island  to 
Cornfield  Point  where,  unable  to  escape,  they  were  easily  killed.  During 
the  Indian  Wars,  the  few  settlers  who  escaped  the  tomahawk  fled  to  the 
mainland  or  to  the  refuge  of  island  blockhouses.  But  the  island  was 
gradually  resettled  as  soon  as  hostilities  ceased,  Rowland  Hamilton, 
brother  of  Chebeague  Island's  first  settler,  being  the  first  to  return. 

A  cove  adjacent  to  Cornfield  Point  has  borne  the  name  of  Dead  Man's 
Cove  since  the  night,  many  years  ago,  when  the  sea  cast  ashore  at  this  spot 
the  mangled  bodies  of  three  sailors. 

Not  long  ago,  during  the  excavation  of  a  cellar  on  the  south  end  of  the 
island,  the  skeleton  of  a  man  of  extremely  large  stature,  with  an  officer's 
sword  lying  across  his  breast,  was  uncovered.  Both  the  skeleton  and  the 
sword,  probably  relics  of  a  clash  between  French  and  English,  were  in  a 
fairly  good  state  of  preservation,  due  to  the  dryness  of  the  spot  where 
they  were  found. 

Cousin's  is  connected  by  a  bridge  with  neighboring  LITTLEJOHN 
ISLAND  (alt.  30,  Yarmouth  Town),  which  is  also  a  steamer  stop.  Little- 
john  has  been  known  by  several  different  names,  and  has  changed  owner- 
ship many  times.  The  east  end  of  the  island,  with  its  numerous  shell 
heaps,  was  long  an  Indian  camping  ground.  Many  fine  Indian  relics  now 
in  the  possession  of  the  Maine  Historical  Society  were  unearthed  on 
Littlejohn. 

To  the  north,  after  leaving  the  dock  at  Littlejohn,  the  mouth  of  the 
Harraseeket  River  is  visible,  with  rocky  Wolfs  Neck  extending  out  from 
its  sparkling  waters.  To  the  southeast  are  the  WHALEBOATS,  two 
islands  lying  off  the  shore  of  Harpswell  Neck,  which  rises  in  the  back- 
ground. Almost  directly  ahead  is  GREAT  MOSHIER  ISLAND,  little 
changed  since  Hugh  Moshier,  a  gallant  adventurer,  left  the  tarnished 
artificialities  of  London  in  the  i64o's  to  settle  here,  where  peace  is  broken 
only  by  the  booming  of  white  surf  on  rocky  shores  and  the  occasional  cry 
of  gulls.  West  of  Great  Moshier  is  LITTLE  MOSHIER,  a  narrow 
isle  which  is  the  site  of  an  early  Indian  burying  ground.  Northwest  of 
Little  Moshier  is  LANE'S  ISLAND;  here  during  the  Indian  Wars,  when 


394  Island  Tours 


the  hillsides  echoed  with  blood-curdling  yells  of  the  painted  red  men,  two 
white  victims  were  horribly  tortured  to  death. 

BUSTIN'S  ISLAND  (alt.  28,  Freeport  Town),  where  the  steamer  next 
docks,  is  believed  to  have  been  the  site  of  a  mysterious  lead  mine  where 
many  years  ago  a  person  known  as  '  Swindler '  Ransom  procured  a  metal 
which  he  asserted  could  be  transmuted  into  silver.  Ransom  appeared  on 
the  island  out  of  nowhere,  and  succeeded  in  duping  a  respectable  Portland 
silversmith  and  others  into  believing  his  claims.  Finally  one  of  the  in- 
vestors in  his  enterprise  became  suspicious  and  discovered  that  the  black 
rod  with  which  Ransom  was  accustomed  to  stir  the  ore  while  muttering 
strange  incantations  was  really  the  source  of  the  little  ball  of  silver 
eventually  produced.  The  finding  of  a  thin  rolled  silver  coin  concealed  in 
the  hollow  end  of  the  black  wand  brought  about  Ransom's  arrest,  but  his 
escape  and  disappearance  were  as  sudden  and  mysterious  as  had  been  his 
appearance  in  this  region. 

An  amusing  tale  is  told  on  Bustin's  Island  of  one  Charles  Guppy,  an  early 
resident,  who  conceived  a  novel  plan  to  eliminate  the  labor  of  rowing  to 
South  Freeport  for  his  weekly  supplies.  With  the  assistance  of  a  neighbor, 
Guppy  constructed  a  huge  red  kite  which  they  tied  by  a  heavy  string  to 
the  bow  of  his  dory,  and  set  out  from  the  mainland.  Part  way  across  to  the 
island,  a  fierce  gale  of  wind  caught  the  kite  and  the  dory's  bow  rose  out  of 
the  water,  while  the  panic-stricken  inventors  clung  for  dear  life  to  keep 
from  being  tossed  out  of  the  craft.  But  they  somehow  managed  to  keep 
sailing  in  the  direction  of  Bustin's;  and  before  either  had  recovered 
sufficiently  to  reach  the  bow  and  cut  away  the  kite,  they  went  skimming 
up  the  beach,  a  full  boatlength  into  the  grass.  Guppy  and  his  friend 
thereupon  decided  that  rowing  had  its  advantages. 

The  steamer  route  passes  (R)  UPPER  and  LOWER  GOOSE  ISLANDS, 
lying  end  to  end,  and  the  GOSLINGS,  tiny  islets  at  the  southern  tip  of 
Lower  Goose.  To  the  north  are  the  waters  of  Maquoit  Bay  (pronounced 
M'kwate)  with  the  shores  of  Freeport  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a)  rising  in  the 
background. 

BIRCH  ISLAND  (alt.  41,  Harpswell  Town),  the  last  boat  stop,  was  so 
named  because  of  its  abundance  of  silver  birch  trees.  Walter  Merriman, 
ancestor  of  all  of  the  Merriman  name  in  Harpswell  and  its  vicinity, 
emigrated  from  Ireland  and  became  Birch  Island's  first  settler.  Several 
years  after  Merriman's  arrival,  a  flourishing  colony  sprang  up  here,  and 
the  island  wilderness  soon  became  a  little  community  of  well-cultivated 
farms  and  comfortable  homes,  supporting  a  school  with  forty-eight  pupils. 
In  1849,  nearly  fifty  years  after  the  inception  of  the  settlement,  most  of 
the  farmers  abandoned  their  fields  and  orchards  to  join  the  great  Califor- 
nia gold  rush.  Today  yawning  cellar-holes  and  gnarled  old  apple  trees 
scattered  about  the  island  are  all  that  is  left  of  the  abandoned  farms. 

During  the  Indian  wars,  a  sentinel  was  stationed  on  the  steep  hill  on  the 
west  side  of  the  island;  and  with  the  approach  of  the  red  men  by  water,  a 
signal  was  given  to  the  lookout  at  Harpswell,  who  spread  an  alarm  which 


Boothbay  Harbor  to  Squirrel  Island  395 

warned  the  settlers  to  take  refuge  in  the  blockhouse  on  near-by  Shelter 
Island. 

TOUR  2:  BOOTHBAY  HARBOR  to  SQUIRREL  ISLAND 

Ferry  service.  Virginia  Landing,  Townsend  Ave.  (see  Tour  1G).  Time:  about 
20  minutes. 

Leaving  the  wharf,  the  boat  emerges  from  among  the  small  craft  that 
crowd  the  waterfront  of  Boothbay  Harbor,  to  speed  through  the  open 
water  of  the  outer  harbor. 

SQUIRREL  ISLAND  (alt.  40,  Southport  Town),  connected  by  steamer 
with  Boothbay  Harbor  and  Bath,  is  the  oldest  summer  settlement  in  the 
Boothbay  region,  and  the  scene  of  much  social  and  recreational  activity. 
The  island  is  like  a  small  city  during  the  summer  months;  in  the  winter  it 
is  inhabited  only  by  caretakers. 

Squirrel  was  among  the  first  points  visited  by  early  explorers  along  the 
Maine  coast.  Captain  Waymouth  stopped  here  in  1605,  when  he  made 
his  voyage  to  Maine,  and  undoubtedly  Captain  John  Smith  visited  the 
island  during  his  trip  to  Monhegan  in  1614.  Some  of  the  early  pirates  who 
played  havoc  with  shipping  in  Maine  waters  made  use  of  Squirrel  Island. 
On  the  east  coast  is  Kidd's  Cave,  a  curious  tunnel-like  cavern  extending 
back  into  the  solid  rock  150  to  200  feet;  it  is  so  called  because  of  a  local 
belief  that  the  privateer,  Captain  Kidd,  used  it  as  a  hiding  place  for  loot. 

Before  Squirrel  became  a  summer  resort  it  was  owned  by  a  local  'squire,' 
who  sold  it  to  a  group  of  business  men  in  Auburn  and  Lewiston.  These 
men  formed  an  association  from  which  the  present  Squirrel  Island  Colony 
was  developed.  An  interesting  local  story  is  connected  with  the  death  of 
Squire  Greenleaf,  the  early  owner,  who  moved  to  Boothbay  Harbor  after 
selling  the  island.  He  had  always  expressed  a  desire  that  when  he  died  his 
body  should  be  buried  in  sand  from  Davenport  Cove,  an  inlet  on  the 
island's  shore  line.  After  his  death  a  crew  of  men  was  sent  over  with  a 
scow  to  Squirrel  to  get  the  sand  for  filling  the  Squire's  grave.  However, 
instead  of  going  around  the  point  and  into  the  cove,  the  men  decided  that 
as  long  as  the  sand  came  from  any  part  of  Squirrel,  it  would  meet  the 
requirements;  so  they  went  ashore  at  a  more  convenient  place,  loaded  the 
scow,  and  started  back  toward  Boothbay  Harbor.  Almost  immediately  a 
storm  came  up,  the  harbor  waters  were  churned  into  foamy  waves,  and 
several  of  the  crew  asserted  that  they  saw  a  shadowy  figure,  vaguely  re- 
sembling a  wildly  gesticulating  Squire  Greenleaf,  walking  on  the  water. 
Overcome  by  fear,  the  men  shovelled  every  pound  of  sand  overboard. 
Not  until  the  scow  was  completely  unloaded  did  the  storm  abate.  They 
then  went  to  Davenport  Cove,  reloaded  their  scow,  and  in  perfect 
weather  returned  to  Boothbay  Harbor  with  the  load  of  sand  for  the 
Squire's  grave. 

The  founders  of  the  summer  colony  realized  that  to  secure  desirable 
municipal  'improvements  it  would  be  necessary  to  form  some  sort  of 
organization  to  collect  taxes.  Since  no  member  of  the  colony,  made  up  as 


396  Island  Tours 


the  latter  was  of  temporary  residents,  had  a  vote  in  the  town  meetings  of 
Southport,  it  would  not  be  easy  to  induce  the  town  to  appropriate  money 
for  improvements  on  the  island.  A  plan  was  evolved,  therefore,  from 
which  grew  the  Squirrel  Island  village  corporation,  the  forerunner  of  all 
village  corporations  within  the  towns  of  Maine.  In  this  first  corporation 
the  right  to  vote  was  restricted  to  property  owners,  whether  men  or 
women.  Thus,  at  Squirrel  Island  women's  suffrage  was  given  an  early 
trial. 

One  of  the  outstanding  achievements  of  the  village  corporation  is  the 
system  of  cement  sidewalks  threading  the  island,  an  improvement  brought 
about  by  women's  votes  and  bearing  directly  on  the  economic  develop- 
ment of  the  island.  There  are  no  delivery  wagons  or  trucks  on  Squirrel, 
and  when  housewives  shop  for  supplies  they  trundle  their  purchases  home 
in  wheeled  carts,  which  when  not  in  use  may  generally  be  seen  standing 
before  the  residences.  Smooth  walks  nowadays  make  shopping  easy  on  the 
island.  It  is  not  unusual  for  the  Boothbay  steamer  to  have  a  long  line  of 
carts  aboard,  when  islanders  sail  for  a  day's  shopping  on  the  mainland. 

TOUR  3:  BOOTHBAY  HARBOR  to  MONHEGAN  ISLAND 

Thomaston  &  Monhegan  Steamboat  Co.  Eastern  Steamship  Co.  Wharf, 
Townsend  Ave.  (see  Tour  1C).  Time:  about  2  hours. 

From  Boothbay  Harbor  a  little  steamboat  runs  outside  into  deep  water, 
bucking  waves  and  swift  currents  on  a  2o-mile  ocean  voyage  to  the 
natural  harbor  of  Monhegan  Island  (reached  also  from  Thomaston  and 
Port  Clyde}. 

MONHEGAN  ISLAND  (alt.  40,  Monhegan  Plantation,  pop.  109)  has 
three  summer  hotels.  Monhegan,  about  2>£  miles  long  and  i  mile  wide, 
with  a  fishing  village,  and  the  adjacent  islet  of  MANANA,  both  with 
steep,  ragged  cliffs,  attract  many  visitors. 

Unusual  marks  on  the  ledges  of  Manana  Island,  scratches  4  feet  long  and 
6  inches  wide,  have  been  used  to  support  the  beliefs  of  those  who  think 
that  Norsemen  visited  the  island  about  A.D.  1000. 

Fishing  furnishes  the  livelihood  of  the  residents  of  Monhegan,  and  fishing 
brought  the  first  visitors.  It  is  thought  that  Basque,  Portuguese,  Spanish, 
and  Breton  fishermen  may  have  been  taking  rich  cargoes  of  codfish  from 
these  waters  at  the  time  Columbus  discovered  America.  John  and 
Sebastian  Cabot  circled  the  island  in  1498.  David  Ingram,  who  walked 
from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  through  this  region  in  1569,  gave  the  first 
description  of  Monhegan,  'a  great  island  that  was  backed  like  a  whale.' 
Captain  George  Waymouth  visited  the  island  in  May,  1605,  naming  it  St. 
George's  Island;  and  Champlain  saw  it  later  that  summer.  Captain  John 
Smith  landed  here  in  1614. 

A  temporary  settlement  existed  on  the  island  in  1626.  Another  settle- 
ment was  made  in  1654,  serving  as  a  refuge  for  settlers  from  the  mainland 
until  destroyed  by  the  French,  under  Baron  de  Castin,  in  1689.  It  was  re- 
occupied  by  fishermen  about  1720.  In  1717  the  pirate  Paulsgrave,  some- 


Boothbay  Harbor  to  Monhegan  Island  397 

times  known  as  Paul  Williams,  who  was  preying  upon  the  shipping  along 
the  New  England  coast,  sailed  north  to  Monhegan,  where  he  erected 
dwellings  and  a  prison.  Using  the  island  as  his  base,  he  cruised  the  Maine 
waters  for  several  weeks,  capturing  a  number  of  vessels  at  sea  and  at 
Matinicus  and  Pemaquid.  Although  a  man-of-war  and  an  armed  sloop 
were  sent  out  from  Boston  to  capture  him,  they  were  unsuccessful;  he 
disappeared  that  year  and  was  not  heard  of  again.  This  pirate  occupa- 
tion has  been  the  cause  of  much  futile  digging  for  treasure  here. 
During  the  Revolution  and  the  War  of  1812,  privateering  was  carried  on 
in  neighboring  waters.  The  battle  in  which  the  American  privateer 
*  Enterprise'  defeated  the  British  brig  'Boxer,'  September  5,  1813, 
occurred  between  Monhegan  and  Pemaquid  Point. 
All  summer  long,  fishing  smacks  unload  cargoes  of  green  lobsters  along  the 
Monhegan  waterfront.  '  Cheap-livin'  fish,  lobsters  are,'  an  old  fisherman 
explained.  'Kin  eat  barnacles,  seaweed,  mud,  anything.  Even  live  in  the 
well  of  a  smack  five  or  six  months  an'  come  out  all  right,  'less  they  chaw 
each  other  up,  an'  they're  mostly  doin'  that.  Don't  seem  to  hurt  much, 
though.  I've  found  lots  o'  claws  broke  off  in  fights,  an'  they  grow  back 
just  as  good  agin.' 

Most  of  the  lobsters  caught  average  lo^  inches  in  length,  which  is  con- 
sidered the  standard  market  size;  but  occasional  prodigies  turn  up  to  de- 
light their  captors.  The  largest  lobster  caught  along  the  Maine  coast, 
taken  in  Casco  Bay  about  50  years  ago,  weighed  36  pounds.  Baby  lob- 
sters a  few  inches  long  are  often  seen  scuttling  for  safety  under  their 
mothers'  tails,  and  at  times  are  found  stranded  in  shells  into  which  they 
have  crawled  near  the  shore.  As  they  increase  in  size,  their  hard  shells 
split  up  the  back  and  are  sloughed  off,  to  be  replaced  by  new  ones. 
During  the  time  of  these  periodical  sheddings,  the  lobsters  take  refuge  in 
crevices  under  stones  or  in  the  heavy  eel  grass.  Though  unwieldy  in  ap- 
pearance and  given  little  credit  for  velocity,  the  lobsters  move  rapidly,  by 
preference  backward.  The  large  anterior  claws,  used  to  crack  clams,  are 
strong  enough  to  take  off  a  man's  finger. 

The  island  is  covered  by  a  network  of  trails.  Cathedral  Woods  and  Burnt 
Head  are  favorite  spots  with  visitors.  Boar's  Head,  one  of  the  most  un- 
usual formations  on  the  Maine  coast,  has  the  appearance  of  a  fat  neck  and 
a  triple  chin  beneath  a  snub  nose. 

Monhegan's  art  population  is  internationally  known,  Rockwell  Kent 
being  credited  with  having  popularized  the  island  as  a  resort  for  artists. 
He  brought  a  group  here,  and  started  Monhegan's  first  art  class  on  Horn 
Hill.  Among  the  well-known  artists  who  summer  here  are  A.  Bogdanove, 
Frances  Cochrane,  Alice  Stoddard,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sears  Gallagher,  Mrs. 
William  Clark  Mason,  and  Frederick  Dorr  Steele. 
The  present  Monhegan  Island  Light,  near  the  center  of  the  island  built  in 
1850  of  granite  blocks,  replaced  a  light  erected  in  1824.  The  top  of  the 
tower,  which  has  a  revolving  light,  is  178  feet  above  the  water.  On  the 
western  side  of  Manana  Island  is  a  trumpet  fog  signal  that  can  be  heard 
about  15  miles  at  sea. 


398  Island  Tours 


TOUR  4:    ROCKLAND  to  VINALHAVEN  ISLAND 

Vinalhaven  &  Rockland  Steamboat  Co.  (Vinalhaven  Line).  Tillson  Ave. 
Wharf  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b).  Time:  about  i^4  hours. 

The  steamer  swings  out  of  Rockland  Harbor  past  the  Rockland  break- 
water (L),  jutting  far  out  from  Jameson  Point  and  tipped  by  a  lonely 
lighthouse.  To  the  right,  a  rocky  and  heavily  wooded  peninsula  stretches 
out  into  the  Atlantic,  to  terminate  at  Owl's  Head  with  its  slender  white- 
towered  Lighthouse  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b).  Taking  a  southeasterly  course, 
the  steamer  enters  an  open  section  of  Penobscot  Bay.  Ahead  lie  numerous 
small  tree-covered  islands.  About  half  an  hour  out  from  Rockland,  the 
boat  passes  HURRICANE  ISLAND,  green  with  scrub  pine,  the  locale  of 
Harold  Vinal's  poem  'Hurricane/  Swinging  around  the  northern  tip  of 
this  island,  the  steamer  enters  the  waters  of  Hurricane  Sound,  formed  by 
several  small  islands  and  the  western  shore  of  Vinalhaven  Island.  Ahead 
lies  the  bleak  Deadman  Ledge,  while  to  the  left  is  tiny  POTATO  ISLAND. 
Entering  Carver's  Harbor  the  steamer  docks  at  Vinalhaven. 

VINALHAVEN  (alt.  40,  Vinalhaven  Town,  pop.  1843)  has  a  number  of 
year-round  and  summer  hotels  and  camps,  with  airplane  as  well  as 
steamer  service  to  the  mainland.  The  long  irregular  eastern  shore,  end- 
lessly pounded  by  ocean  waves,  is  little  populated,  the  island  folk  choosing 
to  live  in  and  near  the  village  of  Vinalhaven,  on  the  hilly  shores  of  Carver's 
Harbor.  This  village  is  at  once  a  commercial,  industrial,  residential,  and 
resort  center.  Fishing,  largely  monopolizing  the  waterfront,  is  the  main- 
stay of  existence.  Sails  are  manufactured  here;  and  because  of  its  fine 
harbor  in  a  long  stretch  of  open  sea,  coastal  vessels  call  here  for  supplies 
and  equipment. 

An  irregular  and  much  indented  island,  Vinalhaven  has  a  maximum 
length  of  about  eight  miles.  Except  for  the  settlement  at  the  south- 
eastern end,  it  consists  of  wild  rocky  land,  heavily  wooded  with  scrub 
spruce  and  pine.  It  was  named  for  its  early  colonizer,  John  Vinal,  a 
Boston  merchant.  Near  the  center  of  the  island  is  Round  Pond,  an  at- 
tractive miniature  lake,  where  lily  pads  float  on  the  placid  waters. 

Natives  look  forward  to  another  boom  in  Vinalhaven  granite,  which  in  the 
past  has  been  quarried  here  in  large  quantities.  The  blue-gray  granite  of 
the  deep  Quarry  on  the  northern  edge  of  the  village  was  at  one  time  in 
great  demand  for  public  buildings;  the  120- ton  monoliths  on  three  sides  of 
the  choir  altar  in  the  Cathedral  of  St.  John  the  Divine,  hi  New  York  City, 
were  quarried  here.  At  present  no  stone  other  than  a  small  amount  of 
paving  material  is  cut  on  the  island. 

Harold  Vinal,  a  descendant  of  John  Vinal  and  a  native  of  the  island,  has 
embodied  much  of  the  beauty  of  his  island  home  in  his  poems  and  other 
writings. 


Rockland  to  Swan  Island  399 

TOUR  5:  ROCKLAND  to  SWAN  ISLAND 

Via  North  Haven  and  Deer  Isle. 

Vinalhaven   &   Rockland  Steamboat  Co.   (Swan  Island  Line),  Tillson  Ave. 

Wharf  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b}.  Time:  about  3^  hours. 

Leaving  Rockland  Harbor,  the  steamer  passes  the  breakwater  and  pur- 
sues a  northeasterly  course  across  blue  Penobscot  Bay.  The  SUGAR 
LOAVES  (R),  a  series  of  brown  moss-covered  islets,  mark  the  southern 
entrance  to  Fox  Island  Thorofare,  a  navigation  route  between  the  islands 
of  Vinalhaven  and  North  Haven  —  part  of  a  group  discovered  in  1613  by 
Martin  Pring.  About  midway  in  the  'Thorofare,'  the  steamer  docks  at 
the  settlement  of  North  Haven  on  North  Haven  Island. 

NORTH  HAVEN  (alt.  50,  North  Haven  Town,  pop.  476)  has  airplane 
as  well  as  steamer  service  to  the  mainland,  and  ferry  service  to  Vinal- 
haven. Good  roads  connect  the  settlement  with  those  at  Bartlett  and 
North  Harbors. 

The  long  irregularly  shaped  North  Haven  Island  is  well  known  as  a 
summer  resort.  Its  rugged  shore  line  has  many  natural  harbors,  while 
little  wooded  headlands  extend  out  into  Penobscot  Bay.  Summer  homes 
have  been  built  on  many  of  these  headlands;  and  anchored  offshore  hi 
summer,  near  almost  all  of  the  residences,  comfortable  cabin  cruisers,  or 
yachts  are  generally  to  be  seen. 

Anne  Morrow  Lindbergh  has  devoted  a  chapter  of  her  book,  'North  to 
the  Orient,'  to  this  town,  which  for  several  years  was  the  summer  home 
of  her  father,  Dwight  Morrow,  former  Ambassador  to  Mexico.  Of  her 
long  flight  across  the  top  of  the  world,  she  wrote  that  its  '  knotted  end  is 
held  fast  in  North  Haven.' 

Leaving  North  Haven  Island,  the  steamer  continues  east  through  the  Fox 
Island  Thorofare,  past  numerous  small  isles,  and  enters  an  open  stretch  of 
Penobscot  Bay  between  the  rugged  Calderwood  Neck  (R),  on  Vinalhaven, 
and  Deer  Isle. 

The  next  stop  is  at  STONINGTON  (alt.  50,  Stonington  Town,  pop. 
1418).  This,  the  principal  settlement  on  DEER  ISLE,  is  a  seaport  with 
an  unpretentious  main  thoroughfare  from  which  extend  short  streets  of 
homes  of  quarrymen,  seamen,  and  fishermen.  The  skyline  is  broken  by 
several  tall  derricks  used  in  hoisting  granite  from  the  deep  pits  of  near-by 
quarries.  The  entire  island  rests  on  a  base  .of  pink  granite  famous  for  its 
superior  quality  and  unusual  coloring.  Many  well-known  buildings 
throughout  the  country  are  built  of  this  granite;  and  the  work  of  supply- 
ing the  stone  for  New  York's  Triborough  Bridge  engaged  200  men  for  two 
years.  A  huge  gang-saw,  used  here  for  cutting  the  granite  into  blocks,  is 
said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world. 

The  fishing  industry  becomes  of  prime  importance  on  Deer  Isle  in  the 
periods  when  granite  is  not  being  quarried.  Then  wheeling  white  gulls 
appear  out  of  nowhere  to  sail  over  the  harbor,  swooping  down  suddenly  in 
flocks  to  snatch  at  fish  as  the  fleets  return  home  with  their  splashing 


4OO  Island  Tours 


cargoes.  The  North  Lubec  Canning  Company  Plant  packs  large  quantities 
of  sardines  here.  The  fish  are  sorted  for  size,  and  after  visceration  they 
are  dehydrated.  Uniformed  girls  then  cut  them  into  the  required  length 
and  pack  them  in  tins,  which  are  placed  in  machines  to  receive  the  proper 
quantity  of  either  olive  oil  or  mustard,  after  which  they  are  sealed  and 
cooked.  About  100  girls  and  25  men  are  employed  in  this  factory  during 
the  packing  season,  which  extends  from  August  to  December. 
The  Eastern  Penobscot  Archives  Museum,  in  the  center  of  Stonington's 
business  section,  is  a  structure  of  long  granite  blocks,  built  against  a  high 
granite  ledge.  This  museum  was  founded  and  is  owned  by  Dr.  B.  Lake 
Noyes,  who  has  spent  thousands  of  dollars  and  devoted  many  years  of 
research  in  making  an  extensive  collection  of  geologic  and  historic  relics, 
early  documents,  and  antiques  of  the  Penobscot  Bay  region. 
Deer  Isle,  nine  miles  long  and  five  miles  wide,  lying  in  Stonington  and 
Deer  Isle  township,  is  very  jagged  in  outline  and  nearly  divided  in  two  by 
deep  inlets  of  Penobscot  Bay.  A  narrow  neck  known  as  the  Haulover  con- 
nects the  northern  and  southern  sections.  About  100  miles  of  hard-sur- 
faced roads  wind  through  the  island's  woods  and  fields,  joining  a  number 
of  little  hamlets  and  twisting  along  the  shore.  Across  stretches  of  sand  or 
shingle  beach,  long  reaches  of  ocean  sweep  towards  distant  Bluehill  (see 
Tour  3)  and  the  undulating  hills  of  Camden  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b). 
The  island  is  rich  in  legends  of  sea  captains  who  made  fortunes  in  slave- 
running  and  smuggling,  and  of  the  lawless  adventures  of  roustabouts  and 
human  derelicts.  In  the  old  cemeteries  are  tombstones  in  memory  of  sea- 
faring men  who  died  on  the  coast  of  Africa  or  lost  their  lives  at  sea  in  the 
China  and  East  India  trading  days.  In  recent  years  many  of  the  palatial 
yachts  of  millionaires  have  been  manned  from  cabin  boy  to  captain  by 
Deer  Isle  sailors. 
From  Stonington,  a  mail  boat  may  be  taken  to  Isle  au  Haut. 

Leaving  Stonington,  this  boat  winds  among  the  islands  to  the  south,  entering  Isle 
au  Haut  Township  as  it  approaches  the  waters  of  Merchant  Island.  As  the  boat 
nears  the  island,  a  peculiar  haze  will  be  observed  hovering  over  the  heights  that  rise 
above  the  sea. 

ISLE  AU  HAUT  (alt.  35,  Isle  au  Haut  Town,  pop.  89)  has  two  small  hotels  and 
other  accommodations.  Champlain,  upon  sighting  the  island  in  1604,  named  it, 
obviously  enough,  Isle  au  Haut.  Three  large  and  a  number  of  small  islands  com- 
prise the  present  township.  Bold  towering  cliffs  at  the  northern  end  of  the  island 
rise  to  a  sheer  height  of  556  feet  above  sea  level,  offering  from  their  summits  an 
inspiring  view  of  other  islands  and  the  peaked  hills  of  the  mainland,  with  Cadillac 
Mountain  in  the  far  distance. 

Near  the  eastern  shore,  scarcely  100  yards  from  the  sea,  is  Turner  Lake,  with 
silver  birches,  cedars,  and  green  maples  fringing  its  steep  banks.  This  mile-long 
lake,  the  peculiar  amber-hued  waters  of  which  are  fed  by  subterranean  springs, 
has  long  been  of  interest  to  geologists. 

At  Money  Cove  it  is  believed  that  Captain  Kidd  buried  a  part  of  his  fabulous  pirate 
treasure.  Many  legends  have  sprung  up  around  this  belief,  but  there  has  been  no 
discovery  to  substantiate  them. 

Leaving  Stonington  on  the  main  route,  the  steamer  passes  the  southern 
shores  of  Deer  Isle  (L) ,  with  many  small  islands  on  the  right.  After  crossing 
Jericho  Bay,  with  Naskeag  Peninsula  (N)  in  the  distance,  and  passing  be- 


Belfast  to  Islesboro  Island  401 

tween  MARSHALL  ISLAND  (R)  and  tiny  HAT  ISLAND  (L),  the  boat 
swings  north  to  enter  Burntcoat  Harbor  and  dock  at  Swan  Island  settlement. 
SWAN  ISLAND  (alt.  50,  Swan  Island  Town,  pop.  576),  with  small  hotels 
and  other  accommodations,  comprises  5875  acres.  It  is  one  of  the  Burnt- 
coat  group  of  islands,  whose  fine  harbors  and  good  anchorage  make  them 
a  haven  for  fishing  craft. 

Champlain  visited  these  islands  more  than  a  century  and  a  half  before 
their  purchase  by  Colonel  James  Swan.  The  latter,  born  hi  Fifeshire, 
Scotland,  came  to  America  in  1765,  and  despite  hardships  and  privation 
succeeded  hi  colonizing  the  Burntcoat  group  of  islands.  In  1808,  he  was 
arrested  by  the  French  government  and  confined  in  the  St.  Pelagic  debt- 
or's prison.  Since  he  was  not  responsible  for  the  debt  for  which  he  had 
been  imprisoned,  he  remained  in  prison  for  22  years  rather  than  secure  his 
liberty  by  accepting  the  charge  and  paying  the  debt.  Lafayette,  his 
close  friend,  tried  to  persuade  him  to  the  latter  course;  but  it  was  not  until 
Louis  Philippe  ascended  the  throne  of  France  that  Swan,  with  other  im- 
prisoned debtors,  was  released.  An  old  and  broken  man,  he  died  three 
days  later. 

The  early  colonists  engaged  in  frequent  bloody  contests  with  the  Indians. 
The  final  gesture  of  the  aborigines  against  white  possession  of  their 
ancient  home  came  in  the  famous  raid  of  1750,  when  they  descended  on 
the  island  to  perpetrate  a  cruel  massacre.  At  this  tune  Captain  James 
Whidden,  who  won  his  commission  under  Sir  William  Pepperell,  was  liv- 
ing on  the  easterly  end  of  the  island  with  his  wife  and  two  sons.  A  daugh- 
ter, Agibail  Noble,  with  her  husband  and  seven  children,  was  visiting 
them.  Early  in  the  morning  of  September  8,  a  party  of  Indians  slipped 
through  the  unlocked  palisade  gate  and  entered  the  house.  Whidden  and 
his  wife  escaped  by  taking  refuge  in  the  cellar,  but  the  rest  of  the  family 
and  two  servants  were  taken  captive,  carried  up  the  Kennebec  to  Canada, 
and  sold  into  slavery  to  the  French  at  prices  varying  from  $29  each  for  the 
adults  to  almost  nothing  for  the  thirteen  months  old  Frances  Noble.  The 
forlorn  condition  of  the  baby  appealed  to  a  young  French  couple,  who 
bought  the  child  for  a  trifle  and  adopted  her  as  their  own.  Baptized 
Eleanor  in  the  Catholic  Church,  the  little  girl  was  carefully  educated  hi  a 
Canadian  convent,  and  when  finally  taken  away  by  agents  from  Massa- 
chusetts she  left  her  foster  parents  with  tears  and  protestations.  Brought 
to  new  scenes  and  a  new  language  on  the  Kennebec,  she  found  that  her 
mother  was  dead  and  her  father  reduced  to  poverty.  It  is  known  that 
she  became  a  teacher  and  that  she  was  twice  married  —  first  to  Jonathan 
Tilton  of  New  Market,  later  to  John  Shute.  Her  story  is  related  in 
Drake's  'Tragedies  of  the  Wilderness.' 

TOUR  6:  BELFAST  to  ISLESBORO  ISLAND 

Belfast  to  Castine  Service.  Eastern  Steamship  Wharf,  Front  St.  (see  Tour  1, 
sec.  6).  Time:  about  20  minutes. 

Leaving  Belfast,  the  steamer  takes  a  leisurely  course  to  the  southeast, 
with  (R)  the  heavily  wooded  and  rocky  shore  line  of  the  mainland  forming 


4O2  Island  Tours 


a  striking  setting  for  several  small  summer  resorts.  Rounding  Turtle's 
Head,  a  headland  marking  the  north  end  of  Islesboro  Island,  the  steamer 
passes  by  North  Islesboro  and  the  narrow  neck  of  land  that  separates  it 
from  South  Islesboro,  to  dock  at  Islesboro  on  Hewes  Point. 

ISLESBORO  (alt.  40,  Islesboro  Town,  pop.  697),  with  summer  hotels  and 
an  island  bus  service,  is  the  center  of  an  exclusive  resort  region  that  in- 
cludes several  smaller  islands.  A  nine-hole  golf  course,  tennis  courts,  and 
excellent  facilities  for  sailing,  swimming,  and  fishing  make  the  region  a 
popular  one  with  sports  enthusiasts.  There  is  steamer  service  to  Prospect, 
Belfast,  Camden,  and  Lincolnville. 

Islesboro  Township  consists  of  North  and  South  Islesboro  (connected  by 
a  narrow  neck  of  land  to  form  Islesboro  Island),  Seven  Hundred  Acre 
Island,  Job  Island,  and  several  small  near-by  isles.  It  was  originally  a  part 
of  the  Waldo  Patent,  and  was  visited  by  the  Church  Expedition  of  1692 
in  a  campaign  directed  against  the  Indians.  Islesboro  Island,  however, 
was  not  settled  until  1769.  During  the  War  of  1812,  when  the  British 
occupied  near-by  Castine  (see  Tour  3),  the  inhabitants  of  Islesboro  found 
neutrality  forced  upon  them.  Winter  in  those  early  times  was  of  such 
severity  that  the  waters  of  Penobscot  Bay  froze  as  far  out  as  Isle  au  Haut, 
and  it  was  not  uncommon  for  sleighs  drawn  by  oxen  to  cross  to  the  main- 
land. 

Some  farming  and  fishing  is  done  on  the  island,  but  the  chief  means  of 
livelihood  conies  from  the  many  summer  estates  here.  Among  the  well- 
known  persons  who  regularly  visit  Islesboro  are  Lady  Astor;  Ruth  Draper, 
the  monologist;  Richard  Whitney,  president  of  the  New  York  Stock  Ex- 
change; and  Charles  Dana  Gibson,  the  illustrator. 


IV.      SPORTS      AND 
RECREATION 


SPORTS     AND     RECREATION 


MAINE'S  scenic  variety  and  beauty,  and  its  exceptional  facilities  for 
recreation  and  sport,  have  been  extolled  by  several  generations  of  writers. 
The  long  line  of  coast  indented  by  deep  bays  and  flanked  by  romantic 
islands,  the  vast  primeval  forests,  the  innumerable  lakes  and  waterways, 
the  rich  resources  of  game  and  fish  —  all  these  contribute  to  attract  an 
ever^increasing  host  of  those  who  seek  pleasure,  adventure,  and  health. 

Hunting  in  the  fall,  sports  on  snow  and  ice  in  the  whiter,  inland  and  deep- 
water  fishing  virtually  throughout  the  year,  and  summer  recreational 
activities  of  every  kind  —  boating,  swimming,  mountain  climbing,  hiking, 
horseback  riding,  etc.  —  can  be  enjoyed  in  fullest  measure  here.  Numer- 
ous boys'  and  girls'  camps  train  youngsters  in  the  appreciation  and  enjoy- 
ment of  outdoor  life;  while  State-wide  tournaments  enhance  the  competi- 
tive interest  of  such  sports  as  tennis,  golf,  and  archery,  skeet  and  trap- 
shooting,  'coon'  and  bird  trials. 

But  along  with  its  many  advantages  for  active  sports  and  recreational 
exercise  in  the  open,  Maine  has  its  own  peculiar  charm  and  stimulus  for 
the  seeker  of  restorative  solitude  and  for  the  creative  artist  in  whatever 
field,  as  well  as  for  the  nature  student  and  the  camera  enthusiast.  A  list 
of  the  artists,  writers,  musicians,  and  others,  living  and  dead,  who  have 
habitually  spent  their  summers  on  the  Maine  coast  would  include  many 
of  the  most  prominent  names  in  American  cultural  annals. 

Although  it  might  be  termed  the  youngest  of  Maine's  industries,  the 
tourist  and  recreational  traffic  has  developed  with  such  mushroom-like 
rapidity  that  it  now  leads  all  others  in  the  amount  of  revenue  accruing  to 
the  State  and  its  people.  It  is  difficult  to  say  precisely  when  this  became 
established  as  a  definite  economic  factor  in  Maine.  As  early  as  1654, 
the  Court  at  Saco  granted  one  Henry  Waddock  the  right  'to  keep  an 
ordinary  to  entertain  strangers  for  their  money.'  Hunters,  fishermen,  and 
nature-lovers  have  been  coming  to  Maine  since  Colonial  times.  Their 
numbers  grew  tremendously  during  the  first  half  of  the  nineteenth  cen- 
tury, and  by  1850-60  many  boarding-houses  and  hotels  were  devoted 
exclusively  to  entertaining  them.  Old  Orchard,  with  its  four-mile  beach 
skirting  the  Atlantic,  was  officially  dedicated  to  the  resort  business  in 
1840.  Other  sections  of  the  Maine  coast  became  popular  as  resorts  well 
before  the  end  of  the  century.  Bar  Harbor,  for  example,  acquired  its 
fame  and  a  reputation  for  exclusiveness  during  the  early  iSgo's.  In  1920, 
it  was  estimated  that  the  annual  income  from  tourists  and  summer  visitors 
was  in  the  neighborhood  of  $30,000,000. 


406  Sports  and  Recreation 

Today,  the  income  from  Maine's  recreational  and  tourist  traffic  pours  into 
many  hands,  from  the  roadside  purveyor  of  fish  stews  and  chowders  to 
the  collector  of  taxes  on  huge  summer  estates.  According  to  the  Maine 
Development  Commission,  a  State  promotional  organization,  the  1936 
recreation  trade  amounted  to  $100,000,000,  from  approximately  1,000,000 
visitors. 

Because  of  their  importance  to  the  visiting  vacationist  and  in  the  present- 
day  economy  of  the  State,  a  separate  section  of  this  Guide  is  devoted  to 
detailed  information  concerning  the  principal  sports  and  recreations  that 
Maine  affords,  and  the  regions  or  routes  where  they  may  best  be  enjoyed. 


FISHING      IN      INLAND 
WATERS 


IT  IS  literally  true  that  there  is  good  fishing  in  almost  any  of  Maine's 
more  than  2200  lakes  and  ponds  and  5000  rivers  and  streams.  Each  year 
thousands  of  fishermen  take  from  the  fresh  waters  of  the  State  millions  of 
fish  of  a  wide  variety,  chief  of  which  are  the  Atlantic,  chinook,  and  land- 
locked salmon  (Salmo  sebago  and  ouananiche) ;  brook  trout  (redspots  or 
squaretails) ;  brown,  rainbow,  and  lake  trout  (togue) ;  small-mouth  black 
bass;  white  and  yellow  perch;  pickerel;  cusk;  and  smelts.  Others  not 
generally  classed  as  game  fish  but  good  for  eating  are  whitefish,  hornpout 
(bullheads) ,  eels,  barvel  (suckers) ,  and  shiners.  Fly-fishing  is  increasing  in 
popularity,  especially  in  the  quicker  water  of  the  thoroughfares  and 
during  the  earlier  season;  deep-water  trolling  yields  better  results  in  the 
warmer  summer  months. 

Shad  and  sturgeon,  both  formerly  fish  of  value  in  Maine,  are  still  oc- 
casionally taken  in  Maine  waters.  Shad  is  caught  with  hand  nets  in 
streams  near  the  coast  in  early  spring.  Sturgeon,  for  the  past  fifty  years  a 
distinct  rarity,  has  begun  to  be  found  again  in  Maine  rivers,  sometimes 
running  to  as  much  as  300  pounds  in  weight.  The  fisherman  is  lucky  who 
brings  home  a  good-sized  sturgeon,  for  its  roe,  from  which  caviar  is  pre- 
pared, usually  commands  a  high  price  in  the  markets. 

Fishing  through  the  ice  is  popular  in  all  parts  of  Maine  during  the  winter, 
both  on  inland  and  coastal  waters.  Salmon,  trout,  pickerel,  smelts,  and 
cusk  are  chief  among  the  varieties  caught.  Smelt  fishing  through  the  ice 
of  tidal  streams  with  nets  and  flares  at  night  is  known  as  frost-fishing. 
Equipment  and  fishhouses  can  be  rented  from  winter  sporting  camps  or 
from  guides. 

The  Maine  Department  of  Inland  Fisheries  and  Game  annually  liberates 
an  average  of  6,000,000  landlocked  salmon  and  trout  from  the  State's 
thirty-five  hatcheries  and  rearing  pools.  Other  hatcheries  are  being 
built,  so  that  there  will  be  a  constant  increase  in  the  number  of  fish  planted 
each  year.  Most  of  the  stocked  fish  are  of  legal  catching  length  when 
liberated. 

The  State  can  be  roughly  divided  for  the  angler's  convenience  into  eight 
regions,  in  each  of  which  the  fishing  is  diversified  and  good. 

Sebago  Lake  —  Long  Lake  —  Oxford  County  Region:  Sebago,  Bunganut,  Crystal, 
Kennebunk,  Mousam,  Highland,  Thompson,  Pennesseewassee,  Long,  and  Kezar 
Lakes;  Peabody,  Hancock,  Moose,  Brandy,  Woods,  and  Thomas  Ponds;  and  a 
network  of  streams  and  rivers,  including  the  Songo  River. 

Catch:  salmon  (Salmo  sebago},  cusk,  black  bass,  perch,  pickerel,  and  trout. 


408  Sports  and  Recreation 

This  southern  region  is  noted  chiefly  for  landlocked  salmon  and  black  bass,  al- 
though it  includes  many  good  trout  streams.  Sebago  Lake,  one  of  the  four  lakes  that 
were  the  original  home  of  the  landlocked  salmon,  is  the  first  in  the  State  to  open 
in  the  spring.  Cusk,  usually  considered  a  salt-water  fish,  is  caught  in  only  a  few  of 
the  Maine  lakes,  and  in  those  but  rarely. 

Rangeley  Lakes  Region:  Rangeley,  Mooselookmeguntic,  Richardson,  Umbagog, 
Loon,  Parmachenee,  Sawyer,  and  Kennebago  Lakes;  Quimby,  Tim,  Jim,  Carry, 
Rowe  Ponds,  and  Chain  of  Ponds;  and  a  network  of  streams  and  rivers,  including 
the  Dead  River  and  its  tributaries. 

Catch:  trout,  landlocked  salmon  (introduced),  black  bass,  togue,  and  pickerel. 

The  Rangeley s  are  the  natural  home  of  the  fighting  trout,  and  it  is  only  in  recent 
years  that  these  lakes  have  become  famous  for  salmon  fishing.  The  Dead  River 
region  is  known  for  its  cold  waters,  fed  by  mountain  springs;  some  of  the  lakes  in 
this  section  have  an  altitude  of  well  over  1500  feet.  There  is  good  fishing  here  in  the 
summer  months,  when  the  trout  in  warmer  waters  have  become  sluggish  and  no 
longer  fight. 

Belgrade  Lakes  Region:  China,  Messalonskee,  Cobbosseecontee,  Maranacook, 
Annabessacook,  Androscoggin,  Damariscotta,  and  Megunticook  Lakes;  North, 
East,  Great,  Long,  Webber,  Three  Mile,  Branch,  Biscay,  St.  George,  and 
Pemaquid  Ponds;  and  many  small  streams  and  rivers. 

Catch:  black  bass,  trout,  salmon,  pickerel,  hornpout,  smelts,  yellow  and  white 

perch. 

The  Belgrade  Lakes  have  been  for  many  years  the  headquarters  for  bass  fishing. 

Only  recently  has  generous  stocking  made  them  excellent  grounds  for  trout  and 

salmon.  There  is  good  sport  here  from  the  time  the  ice  goes  out  in  the  spring  until 

well  into  the  summer. 

Moosehead  Lake  Region:  Moosehead  (see  below),  Brassua,  Parlin,  Lobster,  Ragged, 
Kokadjo,  Onawa,  Sebec,  Jo  Mary,  Seboeis,  and  Sebasticook  Lakes;  Long,  Wood, 
Attean,  Holeb,  Misery,  Pierce,  Indian,  Moxie,  and  Pleasant  Ponds;  the  Kennebec 
and  Moose  Rivers  and  many  streams. 

Catch:  salmon,  togue,  squaretailed  trout,  and  other  game  fish. 

Moosehead  Lake,  itself  the  center  of  Maine's  chief  sporting  region,  is  the  gateway 
to  a  vast  region  of  almost  unbroken  wildland  stretching  to  the  Canadian  border, 
where  there  are  many  waters  which  have  not  yet  been  explored  by  fishermen. 

Allagash  Region:  Chesuncook,  Allagash,  Eagle,  Chamberlain,  Churchill,  Umsaskis, 
Chemquasabamticook,  Long,  Musquacook,  Munsungan,  and  Caucomgomoc 
Lakes;  Long  and  other  ponds;  and  Pine  Stream  and  the  Allagash,  the  St.  John,  and 
the  West  Branch  of  the  Penobscot  River. 

Catch:  squaretailed  trout,  togue,  and  salmon. 

Ten  ponds  on  the  headwaters  of  Nigger  Brook,  which  flows  into  the  Allagash, 
provide  the  best  location  for  squaretails  in  Maine,  with  the  possible  exception  of  the 
ponds  at  the  headwaters  of  the  Red  River.  The  togue  are  still  biting  well  in 
August  in  Munsungan  Lake,  and  trout  fishing  is  good  throughout  most  of  the 
season  on  the  smaller  tributaries  of  the  Allagash,  some  of  them  still  untried  by 
fishermen. 

Katahdin  Region:  Katahdin,  Sourdnahunk,  Millinocket,  and  Ripogenus  Lakes; 
Kidney,  Daicy,  Shin,  Chimney,  and  Togue  Ponds;  and  mountain  streams. 

Catch:  squaretailed  trout,  togue,  and  salmon. 

This  country  is  as  rich  in  trout  as  it  is  in  glorious  scenery.  Baxter  State  Park, 
which  includes  Mount  Katahdin,  is  one  of  the  finest  natural  fish  and  game  preserves 
in  existence. 

Fish  River  Region:  Long,  Mud,  Square,  Eagle,  St.  Froid,  Big  Fish,  Frost,  Mun- 
sungan, and  Portage  Lakes;  ponds  along  the  waters  of  the  Red  River  and  Nigger 
Brook;  and  the  Fish,  Aroostook,  Red,  and  Machias  Rivers. 


Fishing  in  Inland  Waters  409 

Catch:  salmon  and  squaretailed  trout. 

From  the  foot  of  Long  Lake  to  Big  Fish  Lake  (Township  13  and  14,  Range  8),  a 
distance  of  nearly  100  miles,  perhaps  the  best  salmon  fishing  offered  in  the  State 
may  be  had  from  the  time  the  ice  goes  out  to  June  15,  and  again  in  the  fall  from 
September  i  to  30;  salmon  weighing  18  pounds  were  taken  out  of  these  waters  in  the 
fall  of  1936.  Seventeen  small  ponds  on  the  headwaters  of  the  Red  River,  with  those 
on  Nigger  Brook,  provide  unsurpassed  squaretail  fishing.  In  August  there  is  good 
stream  fishing  on  the  Fish,  Aroostook,  and  Machias  Rivers. 

Grand  Lakes  and  Schoodic  Region:  Grand,  Big,  Junior,  Sysladobsis,  Little  Mus- 
quash, Meddybemps  (see  below),  Spednic,  Mud,  East  Grand,  the  Machias  Lakes, 
and  the  Schoodic  Chain;  many  small  ponds;  and  Clifford,  Amazon,  and  Grand 
Lake  Streams,  and  the  South  Branch  of  the  Little,  the  East  Branch  of  the  St. 
Croix,  and  the  Dennys  Rivers. 

Catch:  salmon,  pickerel,  trout,  togue,  black  bass,  and  white  perch. 

The  best  bass  fishing  in  Maine  is  found  along  the  East  Branch  of  the  St.  Croix 
River  and  on  Spednic  Lake  of  the  Schoodic  Chain.  These  lakes  of  eastern  Maine 
lay  claim  to  being  the  fisherman's  paradise,  for  they  provide  not  only  salmon  fishing 
(ouananiche,  the  Washington  County  salmon),  but  an  abundance  of  all  other  kinds. 
At  Grand  Lake,  from  the  time  the  ice  goes  out  to  July  i  and  from  September  i  to 
30,  there  is  excellent  salmon,  trout,  and  togue  fishing;  and  in  Big  Lake,  three  miles 
away,  there  is  fishing  for  salmon,  black  bass,  and  pickerel.  The  streams  in  this 
region  offer  excellent  fly  fishing,  and  many  of  the  lakes  give  opportunity  of  fishing 
the  same  waters  for  trout,  togue,  bass,  salmon,  perch,  and  pickerel. 

General  open  seasons  and  creel  limits  are  as  follows: 

Open  Season 
Lakes  and  Ponds: 

Salmon,  trout,  togue;  from  time  ice  is  out  to  September  30. 

Black  bass  (fly  fishing  only,  limit  3  fish) ;  June  i  to  June  20. 

Black  bass  (bait,  plugs,  etc.);  June  21  to  September  30. 

White  perch;  June  21  to  September  29. 
Rivers  above  Tide  Waters: 

Salmon,  trout,  togue;  from  time  ice  is  out  to  September  14. 

Black  bass  (fly  fishing,  limit  3  fish) ;  June  i  to  June  20. 

Black  bass  (bait,  plugs,  etc.);  June  21  to  September  30. 

White  perch;  June  21  to  September  14. 
Brooks  and  Streams  above  Tide  Waters: 

Salmon  and  trout;  from  time  ice  is  out  to  August  15. 

Togue;  from  time  ice  is  out  to  September  30. 

Black  bass  (fly  fishing  only,  limit  3  fish) ;  June  i  to  June  2O. 

Black  bass  (bait,  plugs,  etc.);  June  21  to  September  30. 

White  perch;  June  21  to  August  15. 

Creel  Limits 
Salmon,  trout,  togue,  black  bass,  and  white  perch  from  streams  and  brooks: 

25  fish  or  lyti  pounds,  unless  individual  fish  weighs  over  7^  pounds  or  last  fish 
caught  increases  the  combined  weight  to  more  than  7^  pounds. 
Twenty-five  fish,  combined  weight  10  pounds,  from  lakes,  ponds,  and  rivers. 
Salmon  and  togue  must  be  14  inches  or  over  in  length. 
Trout  must  be    6  inches  or  over  in  length. 

Black  bass  must  be  10  inches  or  over  in  length. 

White  perch  must  be    6  inches  or  over  in  length. 

As  fishing  varies  in  different  localities,  so  does  the  equipment  required. 
It  is  always  advisable  to  consult  a  registered  guide  of  the  region  where  the 
fishing  trip  is  to  be  taken  about  all  accessories  required  and  about 
accommodations.  Guides  are  not  required  in  every  region,  but  for  sports- 
men unfamiliar  with  the  country  they  are  a  practical  necessity. 


410  Sports  and  Recreation 

As  a  variation  to  the  usual  breakfast  of  pan-fried  trout  or  other  game  fish 
with  which  guides  cater  to  appetites  of  Gargantuan  proportions,  a  meal  of 
woods-style  planked  trout  gives  a  treat  only  to  be  realized  in  the  woods. 
The  bark  is  cut  from  a  live  hardwood  tree  for  about  18  inches  above  the 
ground,  and  the  exposed  wood  of  the  tree  chipped  to  make  a  flat  surface. 
After  cleaning  a  good-sized  trout,  it  is  pegged  skin  side  in  on  the  flattened 
surface,  and  a  few  strips  of  salt  pork  pegged  just  above  it.  A  fire  is  built 
about  two  feet  from  the  tree,  the  heat  quickly  searing  the  fish  while  the 
pork  serves  as  basting.  Another  woods-style  method  of  cooking  trout  is  to 
cover  the  cleaned  fish  with  an  inch  or  two  of  wet  clay  and  bury  it  in  the 
hot  ashes  of  the  campfire  for  an  all-night  bake.  In  the  morning,  when  the 
clay  is  broken  open,  the  steaming  aroma  and  the  flakiness  of  the  trout 
meat  provide  a  treat  for  which  Paul  Bunyan  would  willingly  have  traded 
his  celebrated  ox. 

The  following  are  two  of  the  more  popular  among  the  almost  countless 
fishing  trips  that  it  is  possible  to  make  in  the  State  of  Maine. 


DENNYS  RIVER  FISHING  TRIP 


From  MEDDYBEMPS  to  DENNYSVILLE,  25  m.,  1-2  days. 
Over  Denny s  River. 

Accommodations  at  Meddybemps  and  Dennysville;  camping  sites  along  the 
river. 

MEDDYBEMPS  VILLAGE  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  d),  a  tiny  settlement  on  the 
southern  shore  of  Meddybemps  Lake,  is  the  starting  point  for  a  canoe- 
fishing  trip  over  the  winding  Dennys  River,  which  varies  in  width  from  75 
feet  to  200  yards  between  heavily  wooded  shores. 

The  canoe  is  put  in  at  the  source  of  the  river  on  Meddybemps  Lake;  the 
first  10  miles  of  paddling  are  through  dead  water,  calm  and  peaceful  as  the 
surrounding  dense  woods  and  spreading  meadows.  Although  lily  pads  on 
this  stretch  offer  tackle  hazards,  the  pickerel  fishing  is  good,  as  it  is  along 
the  whole  length  of  the  river.  The  pickerel,  little  brother  of  the  pike,  has  a 
voracious  nature  and  hits  hard  at  moving  bait.  Striking  with  a  savage 
rush,  it  will  take  flies,  feathered  lures,  perch  belly,  or  pork  rind,  offering 
good  sport  at  seasons  when  other  fish  are  sluggish.  Pickerel  run  up  to  6 
pounds  in  weight. 

At  6  m.  down-river  from  Meddybemps,  the  deep-pooled  Dead  Stream 
empties  into  the  river;  this  is  good  trout  ground.  Trout  flies  and  trout 
streamer  flies  are  good  magnets  for  the  redspots.  Other  tributaries  flow 
into  the  Dennys  for  the  next  few  miles  of  wooded  country,  where  deer  and 
small  game  are  occasionally  seen  along  the  banks.  This  region  is  a  favorite 
nesting  place  for  ducks;  they  are  heard  constantly  honking  among  the 
reeds  and  lily  pads. 

About  10  m.  down  the  river,  the  slow  Dennys  suddenly  breaks  into  swift 


Fishing  in  Inland  Waters  411 

water  for  a  5oo-yard  rip.  This  thrilling  but  navigable  bit  of  fast  water  is 
the  site  of  the  old  Oilman  Dam.  Deadwater,  a  splendid  place  for  a  fight 
with  a  tough  squaretail,  lies  at  the  site  of  the  old  dam  pool.  The  banks  of 
the  Dennys  from  this  point  are  higher,  ledgy  in  many  places  and  verging 
into  sand  banks  at  others.  The  deadwater  stretch  continues  for  more  than 
i  mile,  along  an  extremely  winding  course,  before  surging  into  the  Bright 
Island  Rips,  a  stretch  of  white  water  nearly  one-fourth  mile  long. 

Alternating  stretches  of  deadwater  and  sudden  rips,  following  the  winding 
contortions  of  the  river,  bring  the  canoe  into  Dennysville. 

DENNYS VILLE  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  d),  25  w.,  with  its  famous  salmon  pool, 
is  one  of  the  two  places  which  offer  sea  salmon  fishing  in  Maine,  the  only 
State  where  salmon  may  be  taken  with  flies,  fly  spoons,  and  trolling  lures. 
The  pool  here,  like  the  one  at  Bangor  (see  BANGOR),  swarms  with  hard- 
fighting  Atlantic  salmon,  which  may  be  taken  after  April  i.  A  battle  with 
one  of  them  is  a  memorable  experience. 


MOOSEHEAD  LAKE  FISHING  TRIP 


From  GREENVILLE  to  MOOSEHEAD  LAKE  REGION. 

Accommodations,  guides,  boats,  and  live  bait  available  at  Greenville  and  sport- 
ing camps  on  the  lake  shores. 

GREENVILLE  (see  Tour  9),  lying  on  Moosehead  Lake's  southern  antler, 
is  the  gateway  to  a  sprawling  wilderness  of  thousands  of  miles  of  woods, 
lakes,  and  streams.  Within  this  vast  wildland  area  of  Piscataquis  and 
Somerset  Counties  lie  more  than  thirty  of  the  finest  fishing  grounds  in 
the  State,  within  a  5o-mile  radius  of  Greenville;  while  more  than  100 
ponds,  streams,  and  rivers  form  a  web  of  waterways  filled  with  gamey  fish. 

Moosehead  Lake,  1000  feet  above  the  sea,  stretches  for  40  miles  north 
of  Greenville,  With  its  300  miles  of  wooded  shores,  and  its  deeply  shel- 
tered bays,  it  is  '  tops '  with  anglers  desirous  of  deep  pools  and  fine  trolling 
grounds.  The  fishing  swings  in  with  the  passing  of  the  ice  —  usually 
around  the  first  of  May  —  for  a  round  of  bait  fishing  and  trolling  lasting 
until  the  end  of  the  month,  when  the  water  temperature  rises.  Fly  fishing 
is  supreme  until  the  middle  of  July,  and  again  in  September.  Moosehead 
salmon  run  from  3  to  10  pounds;  togue  (lake  trout)  from  5  to  20  pounds; 
and  trout  from  2  to  7  pounds. 

The  thoroughfare  between  Sugar  Island  and  the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake 
is  good  trolling  ground  for  ' lakers '  (togue).  In  early  spring  they  will  often 
take  a  streamer  fly,  although  best  results  come  from  trolling;  later  on  in 
the  season, '  lakers '  are  taken  by  deep  trolling.  They  like  live  or  preserved 
smelts  on  a  single  hook,  preceded  by  spoons. 

Fly  fishing  in  the  pool  below  the  dam  across  the  source  of  the  Kennebec 
River,  about  a  third  of  the  way  up  on  the  lake's  western  shore,  offers 
plenty  of  thrills  in  taking  out  husky  trout  and  salmon.  Regular  flies  are 


412  Sports  and  Recreation 

best  for  salmon,  but  this  pool  is  a  good  place  to  try  out  some  streamer  flies 
such  as  black  ghost,  plumed  knight,  or  welsh  rabbit.  Trout  here  have  a 
special  liking  for  smaller-sized  flies. 

Many  good  trout,  salmon,  and  '  lakers '  are  taken  from  the  pools  just  off 
the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec  by  flies,  and  in  deep  trolling  from  a  boat. 

Reached  from  Greenville,  either  by  steamer,  canoe,  motor,  or  hiking,  are 
such  good  trout  grounds  as  Attean,  Parlin,  Rainbow,  and  Onawa  Lakes. 
The  streams  in  the  vicinity  are  well  stocked  with  trout  (redspots  or 
squaretail),  which  range  from  the  six-incher  up  to  four  pounds.  They  bite 
worms  readily,  take  trolling  baits  like  the  salmon,  and  rise  readily  to  the 
fly.  When  hooked,  they  do  not  leap  from  the  water  as  frequently  as 
salmon. 


SALT-WATER     FISHING 


IN  THE  salt  water  off  the  Maine  coast,  rock  cod,  cunners,  and  summer 
flounders  or  plaice  are  caught  from  the  rocks  along  the  shore;  while  in 
deeper  waters  are  found  bluefish,  Atlantic  salmon,  mackerel,  cod,  cusk, 
herring,  flounders,  haddock,  silver  hake,  chicken  halibut,  perch,  pollock, 
sea  bass,  tuna,  bluefins  (small  tuna),  swordfish,  porpoise,  mackerel  sharks, 
shad,  alewives,  and  smelts.  Of  non-edible  fish,  sculpins  and  skates  are  all 
too  frequently  found  on  the  fisherman's  hook. 

From  Kittery  to  Belfast,  offshore  salt-water  trolling  with  heavy  rods  and 
reels  for  the  giant  tuna  or  'horse  mackerel,'  weighing  up  to  1000  pounds, 
is  becoming  a  popular  sport.  They  are  terrific  fighters,  equal  to  those 
found  off  Block  Island  or  in  California  waters.  Tuna  fishing  is  a  rather 
expensive  sport,  requiring  specially  constructed  rods  and  reels  and  boats 
equipped  with  special  rigging. 

Deep-sea  fishing  is  an  old  and  popular  pastime  on  the  Maine  coast. 
Nearly  every  fishing  viUage  has  its  skipper  who  specializes  in  taking 
parties  out  to  good  fishing  grounds,  furnishing  lines,  hooks,  and  bait,  and 
providing  a  real  down-East  meal  of  fish  chowder  at  noon.  The  catch  on 
these  trips  usually  includes  haddock,  cod,  cusk,  hake,  halibut,  and  perhaps 
swordfish  in  season. 

A  new  sport,  not  usually  known  elsewhere  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  is  fly 
fishing  for  mackerel.  The  striped  sea  bass,  a  game  fish  weighing  up  to  20 
pounds  or  more,  is  taken  close  to  shore  with  surf-fishing  tackle  and  in 
rivers  that  empty  into  the  ocean. 


Salt- Water  Fishing  413 


Information  about  tuna  and  other  deep-sea  fishing  may  be  obtained  from 
the  yacht  clubs  in  the  various  coastal  towns.  The  average  charge  per 
party  for  a  day's  tuna  fishing  is  $25;  for  deep-sea  fishing,  $15.  No 
license  is  required  for  salt-water  fishing.  Boats  equipped  for  tuna  fishing 
are  available  at  Ogunquit,  York  Harbor,  Biddeford  Pool,  South  Portland, 
and  Portland.  Necessary  equipment,  which  may  be  rented  by  arrange- 
ment with  the  boatman,  consists  of  large  reel  (either  9/0,  10/0,  or  12/0), 
hickory  or  split  bamboo  rod  with  tip  of  at  least  i6-ounce  weight,  36- 
thread  line,  1 2-foot  leader  (of  .035  inch  piano  wire),  hooks  (Pflueger- 
Sobey  n/o  or  12/0  are  good),  belt  butt-rest,  and  shoulder  harness. 


TUNA  FISHING  OFF  OGUNQUIT 


For  boats  and  equipment,  inquire  at  Maine  Information  Bureau,  Ogunquit, 
for  Maine  Tuna  Club. 

OGUNQUIT  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a)  is  headquarters  of  the  Maine  Tuna 
Club,  membership  in  which  is  open  to  all  rod  and  reel  sportsmen. 

The  specially  rigged  tuna  boat  cruises  to  an  area  about  a  mile  offshore, 
where  the  '  horse  mackerel '  schools  begin.  Blind  trolling  brings  only  dis- 
appointment and  strikeless  hours,  but  if  a  school  is  located  the  sportsman 
is  assured  of  a  battle  royal.  The  lure,  a  one-fourth  to  one-half  pound 
mackerel,  a  squid,  or  a  feathered  plug,  is  skittered  along  about  30  to  40  feet 
behind  the  boat,  which  moves  ahead  between  4  and  6  miles  an  hour. 
Some  sportsmen  prefer  a  slower  troll.  Strong  muscles,  steady  nerves,  and 
quick  movements  are  of  paramount  importance  in  tuna  fishing.  The  fish, 
one  of  the  fastest  and  strongest  of  salt-water  game  fish,  is  moving  at 
express  tram  speed  when  he  strikes,  and  his  terrific  lunge  carries  him 
partly  or  completely  out  of  the  water.  It  is  in  the  split  second  when  he 
appears  above  the  water  that  the  fisherman  must  snap  back  his  rod  and 
set  the  hook  firmly.  The  setting  of  the  hook  accelerates  the  amazing 
struggle  of  the  tuna,  whose  fight  has  been  likened  to  the  battle  of  the 
Florida  kingfish  on  a  heroic  scale.  Between  the  short  dashes  of  the  fish  the 
angler  must  recover  his  line;  and  much  depends  on  the  man  at  the  wheel  of 
the  boat,  who  must  swing  the  craft  with  the  circling  fish  to  keep  lines  from 
fouling. 

A  tuna  battle  may  last  from  ten  minutes  to  several  hours,  depending  on 
the  skill  of  the  angler  and  the  size  and  strength  of  the  individual  fish. 
Two  sportsmen  in  a  launch  off  Ogunquit  one  season  hooked  a  tuna  esti- 
mated to  weigh  about  1000  pounds,  and  the  ensuing  struggle  lasted  through- 
out many  hours  of  a  day  and  night,  the  fish  towing  the  launch  about  50 
miles  out  to  sea  and  back.  Almost  on  the  spot  where  he  had  taken  the 
hook,  the  tuna  swished  his  saw-like  tail  and  cut  the  line  for  freedom. 

When  the  fish  has  been  tired,  and  gradually  swung  alongside  the  boat,  he 
is  caught  and  held  on  a  gaff,  a  short  pole  with  a  large  hook  at  its  end,  and 


414  Sports  and  Recreation 

then  roped  by  the  tail.  Skillful  gaffing  and  roping  are  necessary,  other- 
wise a  big  fellow  may  be  lost  at  the  moment  of  apparent  victory. 

Commercial  tuna  fishing,  as  it  is  practiced  by  the  fishermen  and  lobster- 
men  off  the  coast,  is  perhaps  not  so  thrilling  a  sport  as  that  of  the  rod  and 
reel,  but  it  requires  as  great  a  degree  of  skill.  The  fishermen  cruise  off- 
shore looking  for  the  tuna,  with  one  man  or  even  two  standing  on  the  tiny 
platform  built  out  from  the  bow  of  the  launch  keeping  constant  watch  for 
the  great  fish.  As  soon  as  the  prey  is  sighted,  the  fishermen  overtake  it 
and  harpoon  it  with  a  specially  constructed  spear  to  which  is  attached  a 
stout  line  with  a  float  (usually  a  small  cask)  at  its  end.  The  tuna  usually 
darts  out  to  sea,  dragging  the  float,  which  prevents  the  fish  from  going 
deeply  below  the  surface  and  impedes  its  progress.  The  fishermen  follow 
the  float  wherever  it  goes,  sometimes  heading  straight  to  open  sea  for 
hours  at  a  stretch.  Eventually  the  tuna  becomes  exhausted  by  its  long 
struggle  and  succumbs,  or  the  fishermen  overtake  and  kill  it.  This  form  of 
tuna  fishing  is  easier  and  more  certain  than  the  rod  and  reel  method,  and 
the  natives  using  it  are  far  more  likely  to  bring  to  land  fine  specimens  of 
the  'horse  mackerel,'  which  they  sell  at  a  good  profit,  than  is  a  conducted 
party  of  even  the  most  expert  sportsmen. 


HUNTING 


WITH  more  than  75  per  cent  of  its  total  area  consisting  of  forestland  and 
water,  Maine  offers  excellent  'wild  land'  hunting.  The  vast  acreage  of 
the  State  provides  a  maximum  of  sport  with  a  minimum  of  danger.  The 
hunter  is  protected  by  a  law  passed  in  1933  by  the  State  legislature  which 
stipulates  that  a  hunter  who  accidentally  shoots  any  person  within  the 
State  shall  be  prohibited  from  ever  hunting  in  Maine  again. 


ANIMALS 

Moose  are  plentiful  in  Aroostook,  Kennebec,  Penobscot,  Piscataquis,  and 
Somerset  Counties,  and  are  to  be  found  in  increasing  numbers  along  the 
coastal  areas  of  Knox,  Lincoln,  and  Waldo  Counties,  where  they  have 
become  so  numerous  that  an  open  season  of  a  few  days  is  occasionally 
declared  on  them. 
From  wardens'  reports  it  was  estimated  that  in  October,  1935,  there  were 


Hunting  415 


from  100,000  to  125,000  deer  in  the  woods  of  the  six  northern  counties 
alone.  The  registered  deer  kill  for  the  State  in  1935  was  19,726.  Deer  are 
commonly  found  near  cleared  land,  tote  roads,  and  abandoned  lumber 
camps.  Early  in  the  season  they  frequent  old  cuttings  where  there  are 
plenty  of  raspberry  bushes.  Later,  after  the  frosts,  they  take  to  the  beech 
ridges  early  in  the  day,  making  for  the  swamps  and  thickets  around  noon- 
time. Hunting  is  best  after  a  light  fall  of  snow.  In  dry  weather,  when  the 
silence  of  the  woods  magnifies  every  sound  the  hunter  makes,  it  is  ad- 
visable to  find  a  comfortable  seat  on  a  sunny  ridge  and  sit  perfectly  still, 
waiting  for  the  deer  to  make  their  appearance.  The  veteran  hunter  scorns 
'  bushwhacking '  (leaving  tote  roads  and  woods  trails  to  plow  through  the 
forest).  When  a  deer  is  sighted  and  the  hunter  fires,  there  is  a  sudden 
crash  as  the  startled  animal  attempts  to  flee,  and  the  white  flag  of  its  tail 
shows  over  the  'blow-downs.'  If  the  flag  drops,  it  means  a  hit.  When 
hunting  is  poor,  it  is  best  to  head  for  almost  inaccessible  high  land,  for  the 
big  bucks  travel  from  one  ridge  to  another,  resting  spasmodically,  and 
make  for  vantage  points  where  they  can  command  views  of  the  surround- 
ing country.  One  of  these  beautiful  bucks  with  many-pointed  antlers  is 
well  worth  the  difficult  climb. 

Black  bear  are  numerous  in  Aroostook,  Oxford,  Piscataquis,  Somerset, 
and  Washington.  Many  sportsmen  prefer  shooting  bear  to  deer,  for  it 
takes  a  skilled  hunter  to  stalk  and  bring  down  one  of  these  crafty  beasts. 
Slow-moving  by  nature  except  when  startled,  and  painfully  near-sighted, 
it  is  astonishing  how  well  they  are  able  to  take  care  of  themselves.  A 
running  bear  can  sprint  for  more  than  100  yards,  especially  on  an  up- 
grade where  his  powerful  hind  legs  propel  him  over  the  ground  at  top 
speed.  Accused  of  being  sheep-killers,  there  was  a  bounty  on  them  for 
years,  and  it  is  only  recently  that  they  have  been  classed  as  a  game- 
animal,  with  a  closed  season.  Bear  meat,  when  properly  prepared,  is 
excellent  eating,  with  a  flavor  much  like  that  of  pork.  Bear  liver  is  a  real 
delicacy. 

Bobcats  are  common.  As  they  are  a  natural  menace  to  deer,  a  consider- 
able bounty  has  been  placed  on  them  ($15  in  1935). 

Fox-hunting  is  popular  in  Maine,  the  cunning  animal  being  found  in 
abundance  in  every  part  of  the  State  except  Knox  County.  Foxes  have 
fixed  habits,  and  the  best  way  to  make  sure  of  one  is  to  learn  his  runways 
and  then  wait  until  he  comes  along.  They  are  as  destructive  as  they  are 
elusive,  destroying  partridge  eggs  and  chicks,  and  playing  havoc  with 
rabbit  colonies.  The  number  of  foxes  in  this  State  is  increasing  steadily. 

Raccoons  are  also  increasing  in  number,  and  are  plentiful  in  every  county 
except  Aroostook,  Franklin,  Knox,  Penobscot,  Piscataquis,  Sagadahoc, 
and  Washington  Counties.  They  are  usually  hunted  at  night  with  dogs. 
Nearly  all  of  the  hounds  used  for  this  sport  are  imported  from  the  South, 
a  good  coon  dog  costing  $100  or  more.  But  native  dogs  can  be  developed 
into  good  coon  hunters;  one  Belfast  dog  has  500  raccoons  to  his  credit  in 
13  years  of  active  field  work.  In  contrast  to  the  southern  raccoons,  which 
are  considered  of  good  size  if  they  weigh  20  pounds,  Maine  raccoons  of  30 


41 6  Sports  and  Recreation 

pounds  are  not  at  all  uncommon  —  one  caught  at  Sebago  Lake  weighed 
35  pounds  and  measured  51  inches  in  length. 

Many  persons  consider  rabbit  hunting  a  fine  sport,  and  most  persons  agree 
that  rabbits  make  very  good  eating.  Maine  rabbits  keep  to  the  surface  of 
the  ground,  and  do  not  '  hole  in '  like  the  smaller  species  found  in  most 
other  States.  They  usually  live  in  the  low  evergreen  growths,  but  cold 
weather  or  lack  of  food  in  the  heavily  wooded  areas  often  forces  them  to  the 
swamplands,  where  they  take  to  brush  piles  in  old  cuttings.  It  is  said  that 
there  are  more  rabbit  hounds  in  the  Kennebec  valley  than  in  any  other 
section  of  New  England.  These  dogs,  baying  in  sorrowful  tones,  find  the 
rabbit  and  chase  it  in  circles  back  to  its  starting  place.  The  hunter  needs 
only  to  stay  where  he  first  started  the  rabbit,  and  wait  for  it  to  arrive. 

At  one  period,  Maine  white  hares  suffered  from  tularemia;  but  in  1935 
they  were  once  more  admitted  into  Massachusetts  for  restocking  pur- 
poses, the  disease  apparently  having  run  its  course. 

Gray  squirrels  are  now  protected  by  law,  but  there  is  an  open  season  on 
them  each  year. 


BIRDS 


Duck  shooting  is  a  very  popular  sport  in  Maine,  and  the  shooting  at 
Merrymeeting  Bay  is  conceded  to  be  the  best  anywhere  on  the  Atlantic 
coast.  The  number  of  wild  ducks  in  Aroostook  County,  and  in  the 
Machias  region,  has  increased  greatly.  The  common  mallard  and  black 
duck  are  the  most  popular  game  birds  of  Maine,  particularly  the  black 
duck,  which  is  found  in  abundance,  generally  weighing  about  three 
pounds.  A  dozen  or  more  varieties  breed  on  the  cool  waters  of  the  north- 
ern part  of  the  State,  and  the  hunter  can  be  sure  of  finding  sheldrakes, 
teal,  pintails,  and  bluebills.  There  is  no  open  season,  however,  on  buffle- 
heads,  ruddies,  wood  ducks,  snow  geese,  or  Canada  geese.  The  open 
season  on  ducks  and  geese  is  controlled  entirely  by  the  Federal  Govern- 
ment; in  addition  to  the  Maine  hunting  license,  it  is  necessary  to  have 
a  Federal  duck  stamp. 

Excellent  hunting  for  woodcock  is  found  anywhere  along  the  coast,  for  the 
birds  in  flight  stop  to  rest  at  every  natural  feeding  place.  Native  wood- 
cock are  found  inland,  especially  in  central  and  western  Maine.  They  are 
a  shy  bird  and  a  real  test  for  any  bird  dog.  A  dog  is  necessary  for  wood- 
cock hunting,  as  the  birds  lie  so  close  in  the  thickets  that  they  are  rarely 
flushed  unless  nearly  stepped  upon.  For  the  best  shooting  conditions 
several  heavy  frosts  must  have  been  felt,  since  woodcock  do  not  have  to 
resort  to  eating  worms  in  marshy  runs  while  the  foliage  is  heavy  and  food 
plentiful.  When  forced  out  of  the  thick  woods,  they  are  generally  found 
in  alder  and  birch  runs  with  blackberry  tangle  beneath,  or  on  sunny  ridges 
with  a  brook  below. 


Hunting  417 


The  partridge  (ruffed  grouse),  so-called  king  of  all  North  American  game 
birds,  is  native  to  Maine  and  protected  by  law.  In  1935,  there  were  grouse 
covers  near  every  Maine  city,  although  the  shooting  becomes  progres- 
sively better  toward  the  north.  They  are  common  in  old  apple  orchards, 
blackberry  bushes,  and  in  open  birch  and  alder  growth. 

The  pheasants  liberated  in  Maine  every  year  are  well  able  to  withstand 
the  winter  cold,  and  many  of  them  are  found  nesting  in  a  wild  state. 
Since  many  pheasants  have  appeared  in  Piscataquis  County,  where  none 
have  been  liberated  in  recent  years,  it  is  clear  that  they  are  coming  in 
from  territory  to  the  south  and  spreading  throughout  the  State.  Both 
black  and  ring-necked  pheasants  are  found  in  Maine. 


GAME  AREAS 

In  order  to  list  Maine's  game  resources,  the  State  can  be  roughly  divided 
for  convenience  into  four  sections,  as  follows: 

SW.  Section:    York,   Cumberland,  Androscoggin,   Sagadahoc,  Oxford,  Lincoln, 

Franklin,  and  Kennebec  Counties,  as  well  as  portions  of  Waldo,  Knox,  Piscataquis, 

and  Somerset  Counties. 

Game:  moose,  deer,  bear,  raccoon,  fox,  rabbit,  woodcock,  partridge,  duck,  and 

pheasant. 

Moose  are,  as  a  general  rule,  continually  protected  by  law,  although  in  1935  an 

open  season  of  three  days  (November  28,  29,  30)  was  declared  on  bull  moose  in 

Knox,  Lincoln,  and  Waldo  Counties. 

Bears  are  found  in  the  northern  portions  of  Franklin,  Oxford,  and  Somerset 

Counties  of  this  section. 

Rabbits  are  hunted  as  a  popular  sport  in  all  townships  of  Kennebec  County.  They 

are  found  in  every  part  of  the  State. 

Good  woodcock  hunting  is  common  near  Damariscotta. 

A  very  famous  duck-shooting  ground  is  Merrymeeting  Bay  in  Sagadahoc  County, 
where  the  wild  rice  planted  by  Capt.  Sam  Nickerson  has  been  attracting  great 
hordes  of  the  waterfowl  since  1890.  Planting  the  rice  is  now  supervised  by  the 
State's  Inland  Fish  and  Game  Commission.  Lakeshore  duck-hunting  is  excellent 
in  the  Belgrade  Lakes  region. 

Flocks  of  pheasants  abound  in  the  vicinity  of  Damariscotta.  The  State  Game 
Farm  at  Gray  raises  ring-necked  pheasants,  about  3000  of  which  are  annually  dis- 
tributed throughout  the  State  by  the  Inland  Fish  and  Game  Commission. 

NW.  Section:  Somerset,  Piscataquis,  and  Aroostook  Counties. 

Game:  deer,  bear,  bobcat,  lynx,  fox,  mink,  otter,  fisher,  partridge,  woodcock, 
snipe,  duck  (black  duck,  mallards,  sheldrakes),  and  geese. 

Moosehead  Lake  is  not  only  the  gateway  to  the  big-game  country  but  is  a  center 
for  game-bird  hunting.  The  woodcock  found  here  are  reported  as  being  much 
larger  and  better  than  those  found  along  the  coast. 

Partridge  are  shot  here  with  rifles  rather  than  shotguns. 

NE.  Section:  northern  Penobscot,  eastern  Piscataquis,  northern  Washington,  and 
parts  of  Aroostook  Counties. 


41 8  Sports  and  Recreation 

Game:  deer,  bear,  fox,  rabbit,  bobcat,  lynx, otter,  fisher, mink, woodcock, partridge, 
duck,  and  geese. 

There  is  excellent  woodcock  hunting  in  alder  swamps  near  Machias. 

Popular  duck-hunting  grounds  are  found  in  the  Grand  Lake  region  and  along 
Grand  Lake  Stream. 

SE.  Section:  Hancock,  parts  of  Waldo  and  Knox,  most  of  Washington,  and  south- 
ern Penobscot  Counties. 

Game:  moose,  deer,  bear,  fox,  raccoon,  rabbit,  woodcock,  partridge,  and  duck. 
Raccoon  is  particularly  plentiful  in  Hancock  County. 

Woodcock  flock  near  Ellsworth  along  the  coast,  and  partridge  and  pheasants 
abound  in  the  warmer  regions  near  the  coast. 

A  good  duck-hunting  ground  is  Pocamoonshine  Lake  in  Princeton,  Washington 
County. 

At  one  time  there  was  only  one  Fish  and  Game  Association  in  Maine,  and 
this  was  State-wide  in  scope.  In  recent  years,  many  county  and  city 
organizations  have  been  formed,  all  of  them  with  large  enrollments.  Their 
purpose  is  not  to  encourage  fishing  and  hunting,  but  to  co-operate  in  the 
conservation  of  fish  and  game.  This  is  accomplished  by  seeing  to  it  that 
protective  laws  are  passed,  and  then  aiding  in  their  enforcement. 

Open  seasons  on  game  vary  in  different  sections  of  the  State  and  the  game 
laws  are  frequently  changed,  so  that  it  is  always  advisable  to  have  a  copy 
of  the  Maine  Hunting  Laws.  This  may  be  obtained  from  the  Maine 
Publicity  Bureau  in  Portland,  together  with  a  complete  list  of  hunting 
camps,  hotels,  and  farm  inns.  With  judicious  planning,  the  hunting 
season  may  be  prolonged  by  moving  from  one  part  of  the  State  to  an- 
other; for  example,  with  the  varying  seasons  on  deer  in  different  sections, 
it  is  possible  for  a  hunter  to  change  his  location  so  that  he  may  hunt  con- 
tinually from  October  16  to  December  15. 


CANOEING 


FOR  the  experienced  canoeist,  there  is  no  better  way  of  becoming  ac- 
quainted with  the  heart  of  Maine  than  by  following  any  one  of  the 
courses  that  have  been  laid  through  the  great  maze  of  inland  waterways 
penetrating  the  forests  of  the  State.  Hunting,  fishing,  hiking,  and  moun- 
tain climbing,  all  important  features  of  Maine's  outdoor  life,  can  easily  be 
made  side  issues  to  a  leisurely  but  exciting  journey  by  canoe  over  some 
one  chain  of  Maine's  lakes  and  streams.  The  hardships  of  the  trip  — 
aching  muscles  at  the  day's  end,  wet  weather,  insects  —  are  far  out- 
weighed by  the  thrill  of  shooting  rapids,  the  pride  felt  by  the  successful 


Canoeing  419 


fisherman  or  hunter,  the  wholesome  knowledge  gained  from  association 
with  the  men  of  the  woods,  and  the  simple  joys  of  life  in  the  wilds. 

Four  of  the  most  popular  of  Maine's  long  canoe  trips,  with  approximate 
mileages,  are  given  here  in  tour  form.  These  trips  require  guides  ($6-$8 
per  day},  who  will  provide  canoes  and  arrange  for  supplies. 


ALLAGASH  RIVER  CANOE  TRIP 


From  EAST  SEBOOMOOK  to  FORT  KENT,  156.5  m.,  8  days  to  4  weeks. 

Via  Allagash  and  St.  Francis,  over  the  waters  of  the  West  Branch  of  the  Penob- 
scot  River,  several  lakes,  the  Allagash  and  the  St.  John  Rivers.  6  carries. 

Guides  and  equipment  obtainable  at  Greenville.  Sporting  camps  and  camp 
sites  at  intervals.  Supply  stores  at  settlements. 

There  are  miles  of  quick  water  to  challenge  the  sportsman's  skill  with  the 
shod  pole  on  this  trip  over  forest  waterways  threading  unbroken  stretches 
of  natural  scenery  still  unspoiled.  There  are  almost  limitless  opportunities 
for  hunting  and  fishing;  stirring  rapids  and  lovely  waterfalls  tumbling 
into  deep  pools  where  great  cream-bellied  trout  strike  savagely  at  the  fly; 
shallow  side  streams  arched  overhead  with  thick  black  spruce  and 
pungent  fir  leading  to  still  caverns  and  tiny  lakes  where  wild  game  gather 
to  feed  and  drink,  and  to  sunlit  glades  in  which  deer  are  caught  browsing. 

The  starting-point  at  East  Seboomook  (see  Tour  9)  is  usually  reached 
from  GREENVILLE  (see  Tour  9)  by  steamer,  a  40-mile  trip  up  Moose- 
head  Lake. 

EAST  SEBOOMOOK,  at  the  end  of  one  of  Moosehead's  arms,  is  a  small 
lakeside  settlement  with  a  general  store  and  several  sporting  camps. 
From  here,  dunnage  and  canoe  are  toted  overland  via  Northwest  Carry  to 
the  deadwater  below  Seboomook  Dam.  At  3  m.  the  canoe  is  put  in  on  the 
West  Branch  of  the  Penobscot  River,  and  the  trip  is  actually  begun. 

Lobster  Stream,  7  m.  (R) ,  affords  a  pleasant  side  trip  for  hunting  and  fish- 
ing through  a  heavily  wooded  waterway,  where  ducks,  partridges,  bear, 
and  deer  are  frequently  seen. 

Lobster  Lake,  4  w.,  at  the  end  of  Lobster  Stream,  is  a  secluded  basin  well  known  for 
its  trout  and  salmon  fishing.  Wild  game  along  its  shores  offer  good  opportunities 
for  the  huntsman  and  the  camera  enthusiast. 

The  canoe  must  now  be  snubbed  down  with  the  pole  through  several 
short  rapids.  The  guide  stands  in  the  stern  of  the  canoe,  and,  with  quick 
deft  movements  of  his  pole  (never  a  paddle),  keeps  the  slender  craft  off 
the  rocks.  In  the  smooth  water  below  the  rapids,  trout  rise  eagerly  to  the 
fly,  and  trolling  brings  gratifying  results. 

Half  Way  House,  13  m.  (R),  is  an  excellent  camping  site.  Here  the  guide 
sets  to,  and  in  a  short  time  the  piny  air  is  filled  with  the  tang  of  campfire 
smoke  and  the  aroma  of  broiling  trout,  fresh  from  the  stream.  After  a 


42O  Sports  and  Recreation 

rare  meal  and  an  hour  by  the  flickering  fire,  sleeping  bags  and  blankets  are 
very  welcome.  The  peaceful  quiet  of  the  great  woods  prevails  until  the 
guide's  call, '  Come  and  get  it,'  awakens  the  canoeist  to  the  good  morning 
smells  of  fresh-made  coffee  and  sizzling  bacon. 

The  second  half  of  the  course  on  the  West  Branch  passes  Moosehead, 
Ragmuff,  and  Pine  Streams,  all  good  fishing  waters.  The  West  Branch 
flows  into  Chesuncook  Lake  near  its  northwest  end,  about  i  mile  below  the 
junction  of  Caucomgomoc  Stream  with  the  lake  waters. 

Chesuncook  Lake,  23  m.,  about  20  miles  long,  is  surrounded  by  wilderness 
and  hemmed  in  by  the  Katahdin  and  Sourdnahunk  Mountain  ranges. 
The  fishing  is  good  in  the  streams  flowing  into  the  lake,  with  an  abundance 
of  trout,  salmon,  togue,  and  whitefish  —  the  latter,  a  particularly  sweet- 
fleshed  fish,  running  usually  about  a  pound  in  weight.  Flood  waters  on 
the  lake,  however,  caused  by  the  Ripogenus  Dam,  have  diminished  its 
attractions  for  sportsmen.  The  shores,  lined  with  dead  timber  and  sand 
banks,  provide  no  suitable  camp  sites,  and  it  is  a  dangerous  place  in  which 
to  be  overtaken  by  dusk. 

Caucomgomoc  Stream,  24  m.,  follows  a  northwesterly  course  to  the  lake  of 
the  same  name.  It  is  marked  by  quick  water  and  running  rapids,  and 
gives  a  strenuous  workout  to  the  most  hardened  paddle-swinger. 

Caucomgomoc  Lake  (Ind.:  'Gull  Lake'),  35  m.,  is  a  long  body  of  water 
between  high  wooded  ridges.  Salmon  is  plentiful  here.  Just  north  of 
Caucomgomoc  Stream  is  a  fine  camp  site  near  the  entrance  to  Ciss 
Stream,  narrow,  and  winding,  which  leads  2.5  miles  to  Round  Pond. 

At  Round  Pond  Carry,  43  m.,  on  the  opposite  shore,  an  old-time  'jumper 
sled '  is  provided  for  hauling  the  canoe  to  Allagash  Lake.  This  is  a  log  sled 
having  a  high  crosspiece  on  which  one  end  of  the  canoe  is  supported  while 
it  is  being  dragged  over  the  tote  road  through  the  woods.  There  is  an 
excellent  camp  site  at  the  Allagash  end  of  the  Carry. 

Allagash  Lake,  46.5  m.,  offers  fine  fishing  and  hunting  in  the  shadow  of 
Allagash  Mountain.   Deer  are  plentiful;  and  if  he  is  fortunate,  the  trav- 
eler may  catch  a  glimpse  of  a  moose  in  the  low  marshy  ground  at  the 
lake's  edge. 
Allagash  Stream,  49.5  m.,  is  entered  from  the  northeast  end  of  the  lake. 

Allagash  Falls,  53.5  m.,  requires  another  carry.  The  shores  of  the  pool  be- 
low the  lovely  little  falls  provide  a  pleasant  site  for  noon  camp,  where 
bird  songs  are  accompanied  by  the  music  of  falling  waters.  Berries  are 
abundant  in  season  near  this  spot,  and  a  hatful  of  raspberries,  quickly 
gathered,  tops  off  the  meal  as  no  prepared  dessert  could. 

Chamberlain  Lake,  56.5  m.,  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  bodies  of  water  on 
the  trip,  with  fine  views  of  distant  blue  mountains  in  all  directions  and 
plenty  of  fat  trout  waiting  to  be  caught.  Here  the  State  has  developed 
pleasant  camp  sites,  and  provided  conveniences  for  the  camper. 

Chamberlain  Lake  Dam,  62.5  m.,  is  directly  across  the  lake.  There  is  a  10- 
rod  carry  to  the  southwest  shore  of  Eagle  Lake,  rich  in  trout,  salmon, 


Canoeing  421 


togue,  and  whitefish,  and  on  its  banks  berries  in  abundance  are  found  in 
season.  The  northern  end  of  the  lake  narrows  to  a  thoroughfare  leading 
to  Churchill  Lake. 

Main  Water  Thoroughfare,  72.5  m.,  is  entered  from  the  southwest. 
Churchill  Lake,  74.5  m.,  offers  a  wide  blue  vista,  with  water-lilies  floating 
placidly  in  the  foreground. 

Chase  Carry,  79.5  m.,  lies  at  the  north  end  of  Churchill  Lake.  There  is  a 
tote  here  of  approximately  i  mile  to  the  Allagash  River. 
The  Allagash  River,  80.5  m.,  is  swift  and  full  of  rapids.  The  trip  here 
becomes  strenuous  and  exciting,  as  the  canoe  is  poled  through  roaring 
swash  past  banks  dark  with  evergreen.  In  a  tight  bad  place  in  short 
rapids  the  canoes  are  sometimes  'roped  down,'  but  the  guide  more  often 
resorts  to  the  pole  and  the  art  of '  snubbing  her  down.'  Old-timers  say  that 
skill  at  snubbing  down  is  fast  vanishing  from  the  Maine  woods,  and  guides 
now  prefer  the  less  dangerous  tenderfoot  practice  of  roping  the  canoes 
down  through  the  steeper  pitches  of  water. 

Umsaskis  Lake,  81.5  m.,  is  entered  from  the  southeast.  There  is  a  5-mile 
paddle  up-lake  and  through  a  narrow  thoroughfare  to  Long  Lake.  Um- 
saskis provides  excellent  camp  sites,  and  the  fishing  is  good.  When  the 
canoeist  takes  more  than  he  can  eat  at  a  single  meal,  he  can  keep  his  catch 
overnight  by  cleaning  the  fish,  wrapping  them  in  paper  or  leaves,  and 
burying  them  in  the  ground. 

Long  Lake,  86.5  m.,  is  dammed  at  its  lower  end.  Here  is  a  lo-yard  carry, 
after  which  the  canoe  is  again  put  into  the  Allagash. 
The  Allagash  River,  91.5  m.,  is  again  quick  with  rapids  and  made  danger- 
ous by  small  falls  for  a  distance  of  about  10  miles.  It  is  not  unusual  to 
startle  deer  or  bear  drinking  at  the  edge  of  the  stream. 
At  101.5  m.  the  Allagash  broadens  into  Round  Pond,  the  second  body  of 
water  of  that  name  on  this  trip.  There  is  excellent  fishing  here,  and  good 
camp  sites,  one  of  which  is  provided  and  cared  for  by  the  State.  The 
Allagash  River  is  re-entered  from  the  north  end  of  Round  Pond.  The 
tempestuous  waters  soon  become  placid,  and  water-lilies  on  all  sides  float 
on  the  deadwater.  Several  streams,  especially  Musquacook,  draining  into 
the  deadwater,  offer  good  fishing;  many  of  them,  wandering  through  miles 
of  unbroken  forests,  have  never  been  tried  by  fishermen. 
The  Allagash  Falls,  118.5  m.,  shaded  by  some  of  the  largest  cedars  in  the 
country,  are  famous  for  their  beauty.  Their  drop  is  more  than  30  feet. 
There  is  a  short  carry  around  the  Falls.  The  rapids  below  the  Falls,  a 
particularly  turbulent  pitch,  is  called  the  Horse  Race.  Again  expert 
handling  of  the  canoe  is  called  into  play. 

ALLAGASH  (Allagash  Plantation,  pop.  438),  130.5  m.,  a  frontier  village 
settled  by  the  English,  but  now  largely  inhabited  by  French-speaking 
people  of  Acadian  descent,  has  grown  up  near  the  confluence  of  the  St. 
John  and  Allagash  Rivers.  There  is  a  small  hotel  here,  and  bus  service  to 
St.  Francis.  Canoeists  often  make  this  the  terminus  of  the  trip,  but  the 
latter  may  be  continued  to  St.  Francis  by  way  of  the  St.  John  River. 


422  Sports  and  Recreation 

At  ST.  FRANCIS,  142.5  m.  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  e),  a  Bangor  and  Aroostook 
train  can  be  taken  to  Fort  Kent. 

FORT  KENT,  156.5  m.  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  e),  is  the  terminus  of  the  present 
trip.  However,  if  desired,  the  canoeist  may  continue  to  Van  Buren  (see 
Tour  1,  sec.  e),  nearly  50  miles  down  the  St.  John. 


EAST  BRANCH  CANOE  TRIP 

From  GREENVILLE  to  GRINDSTONE,  141  m.,  2-3  weeks. 

Via  Kokadjo,  Ripogenus  Dam,  Chesuncook  Dam,  Whetstone,  Burntland,  and 
Grindstone  Falls,  over  several  lakes,  Umbazooksus  Stream,  and  the  East  Branch 
of  the  Penobscot  River.  12  carries. 

Guides,  equipment,  and  supplies  available  at  Greenville.  Trucking  charges 
from  Greenville  to  Ripogenus  Dam,  about  $10  per  canoe;  Chesuncook  Lake 
motorboat  transfer,  $6-$8;  Mud  Pond  Carry  charge,  $$-$7  per  canoe. 

For  those  who  want  an  exciting  voyage  through  the  wilderness,  the  East 
Branch  canoe  trip  is  suggested.  The  journey  is  so  difficult,  with  its  carries 
and  rapids,  that  few  guides  care  to  make  it;  some  persons  consider  it  the 
wildest  canoe  trip  in  the  Maine  woods.  The  start  is  usually  made  at 
Greenville,  although  the  canoe  is  not  put  into  the  water  until  Urnba- 
zooksus  Stream  is  reached. 

GREENVILLE  (see  Tour  9).  Here  canoes  and  dunnage  are  loaded  on  a 
truck  for  the  4o-mile  drive  over  a  good  gravel  road  to  Ripogenus  Dam  on 
the  SE.  shore  of  Chesuncook  Lake. 

KOKADJO  (Ind. :  'rippling  waters '),  20  m.  (see  Tour  7)  is  a  village  on  the 
shore  of  Kokadjo  Lake,  where  there  is  good  fishing. 

Grant  Farm,  32  m.  Near  here  is  Ragged  Stream. 

Ragged  Stream,  winding  through  virgin  timber,  leads  to  Ragged  Lake,  3  m.,  which 
offers  excellent  fishing  and  hunting  in  season. 

Ripogenus  Dam,  40  m.  (see  Tour  7),  across  Ripogenus  Gorge,  is  at  the 
southeast  shore  of  Chesuncook  Lake.  Here  supplies  and  canoe  are  trans- 
ferred to  motorboat  for  the  trip  up  the  lake.  It  is  not  advisable  to  attempt 
to  paddle  Chesuncook  Lake  because  of  choppy  waters  and  headwinds. 

Chesuncook  Dam,  58  m.,  necessitates  a  short  carry.  Canoes  are  put  in  on 
Umbazooksus  Stream  for  the  mile  run  into  Umbazooksus  Lake,  which  is 
used  principally  as  a  thoroughfare. 

Mud  Pond  Carry,  60  m.,  is  equipped  with  wagon  and  horses  to  haul  canoes 
and  dunnage  to  Mud  Pond.  The  latter  is  a  difficult  thoroughfare  to 
paddle  because  of  its  shallowness,  and  much  dragging  of  canoes  and 
wading  are  necessary  to  reach  the  small  outlet  leading  into  Chamberlain 
Lake.  With  the  exception  of  this  stretch,  the  going  is  all  easy  paddling 
over  quiet  water,  with  good  camp  sites  always  at  hand  and  a  variety  of 
splendid  scenery. 


VACATIONLAND 


THESE,  too,  are  speaking  pictures.  They  show  some  of 
Maine's  advantages  in  the  long-enjoyed  but  only  recently  dis- 
covered recreational  resources  of  which  resident  and  visitor 
alike  are  taking  greater  advantage  every  year.  There  is  no 
season  of  the  year  in  Maine  which  does  not  offer  some  exciting 
and  vigorous  sport;  there  is  no  time  when  the  Maine  landscape 
does  not  present  some  new  and  striking  scene. 


DREAMING  OF  A  DUCK  HUNT 


.~S5«C3S  

ON  THE  BANK  OF  SOURDNAHUNK 


TROTTINO  RACE  ON  THE  ICE  AT  CAMDEN 


WINTER  SCENE,  NEAR  FRYEBURG 


«5r:«afcx 


MORNING  PADDLE  ON  MOOSEHEAD,  MOUNT  KINEO  IN  THE  BACKGROUND 


SAILS  IN  THE  SUN 


ALMOST  IN  THE  NET,  PLEASANT  RIVER,  GRAY 


ICE  FISHING,  SEBAGO  LAKE 


AUTUMN  TRAIL 


HUNTING  PARTY  AT  CAMP,  KOKADJO 


CAMP  SITE  NEAR  MOUNT  KATAHDIN 


POPHAM  BEACH 


Canoeing  423 


At  Chamberlain  Lake,  63  m.,  the  canoe  is  headed  southeast  to  reach  Three 
Mile  Thoroughfare,  an  easily  managed  passage  to  Telosmis  Lake,  with 
splendid  views  of  the  Sourdnahunk,  Katahdin,  and  Wassataquoik  moun- 
tain ranges.  Telosmis  is  best  covered  in  a  leisurely  fashion,  for  it  offers 
excellent  fishing  and  some  of  its  tributaries  are  fine  trout  streams  with 
deep  pools  and  small  ponds  caused  by  beaver  dams. 
At  73  m.  the  canoe  enters  the  north  end  of  Telos  Lake.  There  is  an  old 
camping  ground  in  a  sheltering  grove  about  halfway  down  the  lake  on  the 
southeast  shore.  To  the  northeast,  the  general  direction  of  the  course,  are 
Telos  Lake  Dam  and  Canal.  The  canal  was  built  more  than  100  years  ago 
to  prevent  logs  from  going  out  of  Maine  by  the  Allagash  and  St.  John 
Rivers  into  Canada.  The  short  carry  around  the  dam  brings  the  canoe  to 
the  canal.  This  latter  presents  a  thrilling  shoot  over  white  water  that 
spills  and  wrecks  craft  not  guided  by  skilled  hands.  Owing  to  the  differ- 
ence in  the  levels  of  Telos  and  Webster  Lakes,  whose  waters  it  connects,  the 
canal  has  become  a  roaring  swash,  capable  of  shooting  a  canoe  the 
distance  of  three-fourths  mile  in  less  than  two  minutes.  In  such  difficult 
waters  some  prefer  to  rope  down  their  canoe,  but  most  guides  use  the 
shod  pole  and  snub  the  canoe  down  with  sureness  and  great  dexterity. 
From  this  point  all  the  way  down  the  East  Branch,  there  is  abundant 
opportunity  for  watching  the  guide  work  the  fast-moving  canoe  among 
rocks  and  rapids,  with  never  a  mis-stroke  or  a  smash  —  which  would  end 
the  voyage  then  and  there.  The  relief  from  poling  to  paddling  comes  in 
passing  through  the  quiet  and  beautiful  waters  of  the  lakes.  And  from 
the  passage  in  fast  water,  the  contrast  is  sharp  with  the  slowness  of  the 
carries,  which  must  be  made  with  leg  and  back  power. 
The  Telos  Canal  drops  the  canoe  into  Webster  Lake,  76  m.  Tote  roads 
leading  to  abandoned  lumber  camps,  now  almost  buried  in  the  thick 
underbrush  of  the  forest,  start  from  the  shores  of  this  lake,  once  an  active 
waterway  in  lumbering  days. 
Webster  Lake  Dam,  79  m.,  necessitates  a  short  carry  to  Webster  Stream. 

Left  from  Webster  Lake  Dam  on  a  rough  road  is  Co/alos  Pond,'2  m.;  here  one  can 
stand  in  the  fields  which  border  the  pond  and  snap  a  fly  into  quiet  pools  where  lurk 
fine  trout  waiting  to  break  the  surface  the  moment  the  lure  lands  on  the  water. 

Webster  Stream  is  followed  for  nearly  10  miles  to  Indian  Carry,  an  over- 
land trip  that  is  most  difficult  even  under  favorable  circumstances.  With 
canoe  carriage  lacking,  this  shift  of  more  than  3  miles  must  be  made  by 
man  power,  and  has  been  known  to  take  a  full  day  with  all  hands  hauling. 
The  canoe  is  put  in  at  Second  (or  Matangamonsis)  Lake,  where  there  is 
always  good  fishing  and  a  fine  choice  of  pleasant  camp  sites  along  the 
shore. 

Three  Mile  Thoroughfare,  93  m.,  winds  to  Grand  (or  Matagamon)  Lake, 
which  affords  many  fine  views  of  Mount  Matagamon  and  the  Traveler 
Mountain  Range.  This  is  the  last  lake  passed  on  the  present  trip.  There 
are  excellent  camp  sites  along  the  shores,  and  the  fishing  is  good. 
At  100  m.  the  canoe  enters  the  East  Branch  of  the  Penobscot  River,  and 
the  traveling  becomes  even  more  interesting  and  varied  than  before. 


424  Sports  and  Recreation 

Stair  Falls,  106  m.,  a  beautiful  cataract,  makes  a  short  carry  necessary. 
From  here  through  the  four  pitches  of  Pond,  Grand,  Hulling  Machine, 
and  Bowling  Falls,  and  along  the  15 -mile  run  to  the  mouth  of  Wassata- 
quoik  Stream,  the  waterway  runs  through  good  deer  and  bear  country. 
The  traveling  is  continuously  exciting,  and  the  scenery  is  lovely  beyond 
description.  Camp  sites  are  available  in  places  of  breath-taking  beauty, 
the  finest  of  all  being  in  a  pine  grove  on  the  bluff  above  Hulling  Machine 
Falls.  In  this  land  of  early  frosts,  the  late  August  and  September  voyager 
enjoys  a  pageant  of  color  in  the  variegated  foliage. 

HaskelVs  Rock  Pitch,  108  m.,  requires  an  arduous  carry. 

Bowling  Falls,  112m.,  can  be  run  at  times,  although  it  is  safer  to  make  a 
carry. 

The  mouth  of  the  Wassataquoik  Stream,  127  m.,  marks  the  beginning  of 
a  stretch  of  white  water,  variously  named  Whetstone  Falls,  Burnt  Falls, 
and  Grindstone  Falls.  This  stretch  can  be  run,  but  in  rush  water  it  is  best 
to  make  a  long  carry. 

GRINDSTONE,  141  m.  (see  Tour  6),  is  the  terminus  of  the  trip. 


DEAD  RIVER  AND  MOOSEHEAD  WATERS  CANOE  TRIP 

From  STRATTON  to  ROCKWOOD,  87  m.,  8-14  days. 

Via  Flagstaff,  Dead  River  and  Jackman,  over  Dead  River,  Spencer  Lake,  Fish 
Pond,  Attean  Lake,  Wood  Pond,  Moose  River,  Brassua  and  Moosehead  Lakes. 
8  carries. 

Guides  and  equipment  obtainable  at  Stratton;  sporting  camps  and  sites  at 
intervals';  supply  stores  at  settlements. 

This  is  an  easier  trip,  through  somewhat  safer  waters,  than  those  with 
courses  laid  to  the  northeast.  Part  of  this  trip  covers  streams  followed  by 
Arnold's  men  (see  Tour  11)  on  the  ill-fated  expedition  to  Quebec.  The 
region  throughout  is  famous  as  a  sportsman's  country,  and  some  of  the 
biggest  and  most  impressive  of  Maine's  mountains  can  be  seen  to  ad- 
vantage from  this  course. 

STRATTON  (see  Tour  11).  The  canoe  is  put  in  on  Dead  River,  north  of 
the  village,  near  the  forks  of  Stratton  Brook  and  the  South  Branch  of  the 
Dead  River.  Pickerel  fishing  is  good  here,  but  bigger  and  more  exciting 
quarry  await  the  fisherman  farther  on. 

FLAGSTAFF,  4  m.  (L)  (see  Tour  11),  is  passed. 

At  8  m.  (R)  is  DEAD  RIVER  POST  OFFICE  (see  Tour  11).  The  waters 
are  quiet  here  and  the  paddling  easy.  From  this  point  there  is  a  trail  (R) 
to  Mt.  Bigelow  Fire  Tower. 

Bog  Brook,  9  m.,  where  the  Arnold  expedition  made  its  passage  between 
West  Carry  Pond  and  Dead  River,  is  at  the  right. 

Long  Falls,  12.5  m.,  a  series  of  cataracts  extending  about  1.5  miles,  re- 


Canoeing  425 


quires  a  long  carry.  Below  the  falls,  the  journey  continues  along  a  twisting 
course  through  low  bog  land  and  swamps  to  Grand  Falls. 
Grand  Falls  (also  known  as  Great  Falls),  17.5  m.,  leaps  from  a  broad  ledge 
to  plunge  into  a  boiling  misty  cauldron  below.  A  carry,  made  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  river,  is  necessary  at  this  point.  A  half-mile  farther  on,  at  the 
mouth  of  Spencer  Stream,  the  Dead  River  bears  east  on  its  way  to  join  the 
Kennebec  at  The  Forks.  At  the  junction  of  the  Dead  River  and  Spencer 
Streams  are  The  Norways,  an  exceptionally  fine  stand  of  pine. 

Little  Spencer  Stream,  19.5  m.,  is  entered;  but  because  it  is  shallow  and 
very  rocky,  many  canoeists  prefer  to  carry  around  it  to  Spencer  Lake,  or 
from  Big  Spencer  Stream. 

Spencer  Lake,  23.5  m.,  is  surrounded  by  a  heavy  growth  of  towering  pine 
and  hemlock.  Above  the  forest  tower  Tumbledown,  Spencer,  Hedgehog, 
Hardscrabble,  and  Hardwood  Mountains.  The  lake  is  teeming  with  fish, 
and  the  surrounding  country  is  full  of  game.  A  paddle  of  7  miles  to  the 
north  end  of  the  lake  brings  the  canoeist  to  Bratten's  Camps,  where 
horses  may  be  hired  to  haul  the  canoe  and  dunnage  across  a  carry  of  6.5 
miles,  through  a  dense  growth  of  cedar  and  fir  to  Moose  River. 

At  Moose  River,  37  m.,  the  canoe  is  put  in  the  water  to  follow  a  course 
north  through  Fish,  Chub,  and  Whipple  Ponds,  and  Beaver,  Horse,  and 
Moose  Brooks,  to  Attean  Falls,  where  a  short  carry  brings  the  traveler 
into  Attean  Lake. 

Attean  Lake,  48  m.,  provides  good  fishing  for  the  canoeist,  who  follows  its 
east  shore  past  three  small  wooded  islands  and  the  Attean  Lake  Camps 
and  under  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railroad  bridge  to  Wood  Pond.  After  a 
paddle  of  3.5  miles  to  the  north  end  of  Wood  Pond,  the  canoe  is  headed 
into  the  Moose  River  to  follow  a  3 -mile  course  beneath  the  Jackman 
Bridge  and  through  the  center  of  Jackman  Village  (see  Tour  10)  to  Long 
Pond. 

Long  Pond,  62.5  m.,  has  many  wooded  bays  and  coves,  along  the  shores  of 
which  game  of  all  sorts  is  plentiful.  Trout  and  salmon  fishing  is  good  here. 

Long  Pond  Dam,  72.5  m.,  requires  another  short  carry.  The  canoe  is  again 
put  in  on  Moose  River  waters,  where  it  enters  a  fast  run,  Long  Pond  Rips, 
the  most  exciting  section  of  the  entire  trip. 

The  3-mile  length  of  Little  Brassua  Lake,  76.5  m.,  is  crossed  directly  to 
Brassua  Lake,  which  is  entered  on  its  west  side.  The  course  turns  right 
here,  and  follows  the  southeast  shore  to  Brassua  Lake  Dam,  where-  a 
short  carry  must  be  made.  The  canoe  is  again  put  in  on  Moose  River, 
which  from  here  continues  in  a  comparatively  straight  and  unbroken 
course  to  Moosehead  Lake. 

Moosehead  Lake,  85.5  m.  (see  Tour  9),  is  entered  from  the  west.  The 
canoeist  follows  the  west  shore  south  past  Mount  Kineo  (L)  to  Rock- 
wood. 

ROCKWOOD  (Kineo  Station),  87  m.  (see  Tour  9),  is  the  terminus. 


426  Sports  and  Recreation 


RANGELEY  LAKES  CANOE  TRIP 


From  RANGELEY  VILLAGE  to  UPTON,  49.5  w.,  i  week. 

Via  Oquossoc  and  Haines  Landing,  over  Rangeley,  Mooselookmeguntic,  Upper 

Richardson,  and  Umbagog  Lakes. 

Guides  necessary;  camping  equipment  recommended,  although  good  accommo- 
dations are  available  along  the  route. 

Traversing  waterways  in  the  scenic  Rangeley  region,  this  trip  passes 
through  several  of  the  larger  lakes  of  the  Rangeley  group. 
At  RANGELEY  VILLAGE  (see  Tour  11),  the  canoe  is  put  in  on  the 
east  shore  of  Rangeley  Lake,  to  follow  westward  along  the  north  shore. 
At  OQUOSSOC,  8  m.  (see  Tour  11,4),  at  the  west  end  of  Rangeley  Lake, 
the  canoe  comes  out  for  a  carry  to  Haines  Landing. 
HAINES  LANDING  (see  Tour  11,4),  9.5  *».,  is  at  the  north  end  of 
Mooselookmeguntic  Lake.  Here  the  canoe  is  put  in,  and  the  journey  con- 
tinued along  the  west  shore  to  Upper  Dam,  where  there  is  a  short  carry  to 
Richardson  Lake.  In  front  of  the  dam  is  the  well-known  Upper  Dam  trout 
and  salmon  pool.  About  one-fourth  mile  out  from  the  dam  in  the  lake  is 
Dollar  Island,  on  which  is  a  camp  site.    Metalic  Island,  about  4  miles 
from  the  dam,  offers  a  fine  camp  site  for  a  few  days'  fishing  stop. 
At  Middle  Dam,  33.5  m.,  another  carry  must  be  made  before  continuing  to 
Sunday  Cove  over  Rapid  River.    Unless  the  pitch  of  water  is  right, 
numerous  carries  are  necessary  over  this  river. 

Sunday  Cove,  41.5  m.,  is  on  the  northeast  shore  of  Umbagog  Lake.  The 
course  follows  south  from  here. 
UPTON,  49.5  m.  (see  Tour  14),  is  the  terminus  of  the  trip. 


OTHER  SELECTED  CANOE  TRIPS 

WEST  BRANCH  TRIP.   From  RIPOGENUS  DAM  to  NORCROSS,  36 

m.,  4-10  days.  Over  the  swift  water  of  Upper  Umbajackamegus,  through 
Sourdnahunk  Deadwater,  West  Branch  of  the  Penobscot  River,  Ambaje- 
jus  and  Pemadumcook,  and  North  Twin  Lakes.  Guides  necessary. 
ST.  CROIX  RIVER  TRIP.  From  DANFORTH  to  CALAIS,  108  m.,  10 
days~3  weeks.  Over  Spednic  Lake  and  St.  Croix  River.  Guides  necessary. 
FISH  RIVER  CHAIN  OF  LAKES  TRIP.  From  ST.  AGATHA  to 
FORT  KENT,  65  m.,  1-3  weeks.  Over  waters  of  Cross,  Square,  and  Eagle 
Lakes,  and  Fish  River.  Guides  necessary. 

UPPER  KENNEBEC  WATERS  TRIP.  From  THE  FORKS  to  BATH, 
120  m.,  1-2  weeks.  Over  waters  of  Dead  River,  Wyman  Lake,  and  Kenne- 
bec  River.  Guides  not  necessary. 


Hiking  and  Mountain  Climbing  427 

LOWER  KENNEBEC  WATERS  TRIP.  From  GARDINER  to 
GARDINER  (loop  trip),  100 m.,  8  days~3  weeks.  Over  Cobbossee  Stream, 
Pleasant  and  Horseshoe  Ponds,  Cobbosseecontee,  Annabessacook, 
Maranacook,  and  Messalonskee  Lakes,  and  Kennebec  River.  Guides  not 
necessary. 

BELGRADE  LAKES  TRIP.  From  WATERVILLE  to  OAKLAND, 
40-100  m.,  4  days-2  weeks.  Over  waters  of  East,  North,  Great,  Ellis, 
McGrath,  and  Long  Ponds,  Belgrade  Lakes,  Belgrade  Stream,  and  Snow 
Pond.  Guides  not  necessary. 

SACO  RIVER  TRIP.  From  FRYEBURG  VILLAGE  to  LOVEWELL'S 
POND,  17  m.,  1-3  days.  Over  Saco  River.  Guides  not  necessary. 

GRAND  LAKE-MACHIAS  WATERS  TRIP.  From  PRINCETON  to 
WHITNEYVILLE,  75  m.,  2-4  weeks.  Over  Big,  Grand,  and  Dobose 
Lakes,  and  Machias  River.  Guides  necessary. 

SEBAGO  LAKE  TRIP.  From  PORTLAND  (Riverton)  to  HARRISON, 
60  m.,  4-10  days.  Over  Presumpscot  River,  Sebago  Lake,  Songo  River, 
Brandy  and  Long  Ponds,  and  Highland  Lake.  Guides  not  necessary. 

PEMAQUID  TRIP  (fresh  and  salt  waters).  From  DAMARISCOTTA  to 
DAMARISCOTTA  (loop  trip),  70  m.,  3-7  days.  Over  Damariscotta 
River,  Damariscotta  Lake,  Muscongus  Bay,  Pemaquid  River,  Boyd 
Pond,  John's  Bay,  and  Christmas  Cove.  Guides  not  necessary. 


HIKING      AND      MOUNTAIN 
CLIMBING 


THERE  are  more  than  100  mountains  3000  feet  or  higher  in  the  State  of 
Maine.  Few  natives  and  fewer  visitors  realize  that  these  mountains  exist, 
and  that  they  have  so  important  a  place  in  the  list  of  the  State's  natural 
resources.  With  the  wild  forest  land  in  which  they  are  set,  they  form  a 
vast  and  natural  State  park,  where  the  nature-lover,  the  hiker,  and  the 
mountain  climber  may  find  nearly  every  type  of  trail,  the  challenge  of 
rugged  mountain  peaks,  meandering  paths  along  forest-bordered  streams, 
and  panoramic  views  of  mountains,  lakes,  and  timber  lands. 

The  Maine  State  Forestry  Commission  has  built  and  marked  trails  from 
the  principal  State  highways  to  lookout  towers  on  mountain  peaks  and 
high  hills.  It  has  also  constructed  camp  sites  in  those  areas  where 
private  accommodations  are  lacking.  These  camp  sites  are  situated  near 


428  Sports  and  Recreation 

pure  drinking  water,  and  contain  stone  fireplaces,  shelters  with  tables, 
and  other  conveniences.  The  Maine  State  Highway  Commission  map 
shows  the  location  of  these  camp  sites  throughout  the  State. 

Many  of  the  shorter  trails  hi  Maine,  especially  those  hi  the  south  where 
there  is  a  more  even  distribution  of  population  and  an  occasional  village, 
follow  dirt  roads  and  abandoned  county  highways.  Other  trails  start 
from  small  villages  or  from  the  main  highways. 

The  longest  and  best  known  trail  in  the  State  is  the  Appalachian,  com- 
prising the  first  265  miles  of  the  2054  mile  continuous  hiking  trail  from 
Mount  Katahdin  in  Maine  to  Mount  Oglethorpe  in  Georgia.  The 
Appalachian  Trail  in  Maine  was  the  last  part  of  the  total  route  to  be 
undertaken  and  was  not  completed  until  1935,  when  the  work  of  building 
it  was  finally  adopted  as  a  Civilian  Conservation  Corps  project.  The 
Maine  section  was  the  most  difficult  to  build  because  its  way  lay  through 
utter  wilderness,  far  removed  from  centers  of  population,  and  there 
were  no  outing  or  mountaineering  clubs  in  the  State  to  aid  in  its  con- 
struction. Nevertheless,  the  trail  is  today  an  easy,  well-marked  route. 
Throughout  its  distance  the  way  is  conspicuously  marked  by  an  unbroken 
line  of  white  paint  blazes  facing  the  direction  of  travel.  As  the  in- 
signia of  the  route,  this  marking  is  further  supplemented  by  metal 

markers  which  bear  the   A   monogram  and  the  legend  l  Appalachian 

Trail  —  Maine  to  Georgia.'  The  paint  used  in  the  marking  has  a  lumi- 
nous quality  which  helps  travel  in  the  evening  hours.  A  further  helpful 
device  is  that  known  as  the  'double  blaze,'  one  blaze  placed  above  an- 
other, which  calls  attention  to  a  turn.  This  is  the  only  blaze  symbol 
adopted  for  uniform  use  on  the  entire  Trail.  Cairns  —  piles  of  stones 
built  so  as  to  appear  obviously  artificial  —  and  paint  on  rocks  also  indicate 
the  route  where  other  marking  is  impossible.  All  side  trails  are  marked  by 
blue-paint  blazes,  and  large  wooden  signs  indicate  the  route  and  distances 
at  important  intersections.  The  Trail  traverses  a  series  of  mountain 
peaks  in  a  general  southwest-northeast  direction,  and  it  has  been  so 
located  that  comfortable  accommodations  can  be  found  at  the  interval 
of  a  moderate  day's  journey.  Two  of  the  trails  treated  in  this  section  are 
part  of  the  Appalachian  system.  (For  full  information,  see  '  Guide  to  the 
Appalachian  Trail  in  Maine,'  The  Appalachian  Trail  Conference,  901 
Union  Trust  Building,  Washington,  D.C.) 

The  following  trips,  selected  for  their  scenic  beauty,  range  from  difficult 
climbs  for  the  experienced  to  easy  hikes  for  the  novice.  It  should  be 
understood  that  the  mileages  given  are  only  approximate,  as  floods  and 
frost  may  change  the  trails  from  season  to  season. 

Sporting  camps  are  fairly  frequent  in  lake  areas  and  small  villages,  and 
game  and  fire  wardens  will  supply  specific  information  on  accommoda- 
tions, communication  facilities,  and  trail  changes.  There  are  telephones 
at  all  fire  lookouts. 


Hiking  and  Mountain  Climbing  429 


HUNT  TRAIL 

From  BAXTER  CAMP  to  BAXTER  PEAK  (alt.  5267),  5.2  m.,  i  day,  blazed 
trail  (part  of  Appalachian  system).  Via  the  Gateway  and  Thoreau  Spring. 

Caution  advised,  but  no  guide  necessary.  Trail  markers  are  of  three  types: 
Appalachian  A  white  paint  blazes  on  rocks  and  trees,  and  cairns  (small  piles 
of  stones).  Area  is  State  Game  Preserve;  no  hunting. 

Wending  into  the  vast  game  area  of  Katahdin  State  Game  Preserve  and 
Baxter  State  Park,  to  reach  Mount  Katahdin,  which  Thoreau  described  as 
'a  vast  aggregation  of  loose  rocks,'  the  Hunt  Trail  leads  into  a  district 
filled  with  the  lore  of  woods  and  mountains  and  colored  with  legends  of  the 
Indians,  to  whom  Katahdin  was  the  home  of  the  Mountain  King,  his  sons 
the  Thunders,  and  his  beautiful  swift  daughter  Lightning.  Climbing  the 
west  side  of  the  mountain,  the  trail  affords  spectacular  views  over  the 
forest-rimmed  bowl  of  the  game  preserve. 

Baxter  Camp  (see  Tour  7),  a  State  camp,  with  custodian  on  the  grounds  all 
year,  is  the  starting  point  of  the  trail,  which  leads  through  a  growth  of 
spruce,  pine,  and  hardwood,  with  Katahdin  Stream  (R)  visible  at  inter- 
vals. The  trail  crosses  a  rustic  bridge  at  1  m.,  and  bears  left  to  follow  the 
stream  for  some  distance,  before  ascending  to  an  altitude  of  about  1800 
feet. 

Seven  Pennies  Shelter,  2  w.,  is  a  camper's  lean-to  just  beyond  which  there 
are  several  steep  bits  of  ground  known  as  The  Pitches;  these  are  very 
slippery  in  wet  weather. 

The  Cave,  2.6  m.,  a  huge  slab  of  rock  projecting  from  the  mountain-side, 
offers  shelter  for  a  party  of  not  more  than  six,  and  is  a  good  stopping  place 
for  luncheon.  From  this  point  the  trail  becomes  rocky,  even  the  stunted 
growth  of  timber  finally  vanishing,  and  edges  its  way  through  the  Boul- 
ders, a  desolate  stretch  of  huge  granite  rocks  marked  only  by  white  paint 
blazes. 

The  Gateway,  3.6  m.,  is  the  entrance  to  the  plateau  or  tableland  of  Katah- 
din, a  generally  level  stretch  carpeted  with  several  inches  of  moss. 

Thoreau  Spring,  4.2  m.,  in  a  setting  of  tall  grass  and  moss,  lies  at  the  end  of 
the  plateau.  A  bronze  marker  at  the  spring  records  the  naming  of  the 
water  supply  in  1932.  From  here  to  the  summit  is  a  gradual  climb  of  300 
yards. 

At  Baxter  Peak,  5.2  m.,  the  end  of  the  trail,  a  sign  bears  the  legend: 
'Terminus  of  the  Appalachian  Trail,  A  Mountain  Footpath  2054  Miles 
Long  to  Mount  Oglethorpe,  Georgia.'  The  mile-high  point  of  vantage 
affords  an  unexcelled  panorama  of  Maine's  lakes,  streams,  forests,  and 
mountains. 


430  Sports  and  Recreation 


SADDLEBACK  MOUNTAIN  TRAIL 


From  SADDLEBACK  POND  to  SUMMIT  OF  SADDLEBACK  MOUNTAIN 
(alt.  4116),  3.5  m.,  i  day.  Marked  trail;  no  guide  necessary.  Inquire  at  Range- 
ley  (see  Tour  11)  for  local  road  to  the  Saddleback  Camps  on  the  west  side  of  the 
pond,  where  boats  may  be  hired  for  the  trip  across  the  pond;  or  the  old  logging 
road  that  runs  from  the  camps  may  be  used  to  reach  the  trail  entrance.  Trail 
marked  by  horsehoe  sign. 

This  short  climb,  along  a  rocky  path  bordered  by  pine  and  spruce,  makes 
a  gradual  ascent  to  Saddleback  summit,  from  which  the  view  is  especially 
attractive. 

The  Ranger's  Cabin,  3  m.,  a  log  building  with  porch,  marks  the  first  open 
ground  on  the  trail.  Near-by  is  a  spring,  and  campers  may  use  the  open 
fireplace  for  cooking. 

From  this  point  the  trail  becomes  steep  and  rocky,  following  an  old  stream 
bed  that  is  slippery  when  wet.  With  the  higher  altitude,  the  ff  ees  beside 
the  trail  grow  smaller  and  more  wind-twisted,  finally  disappearing  alto- 
gether about  200  yards  from  the  summit. 

The  Summit,  3.5  m.,  is  barren  rock  relieved  only  by  a  few  blackberry 
bushes  and  moss.  Crowning  the  summit  is  a  75-foot  Observation  Tower, 
affording  a  fine  view  of  the  Rangeley  Lakes  and  distant  mountains. 


SQUAW  MOUNTAIN  TRAIL 

From  SQUAW  MOUNTAIN  INN  to  SUMMIT  OF  SQUAW  MOUNTAIN 
(alt.  3262),  3  m.,  1  day.  Marked  trail;  no  guide  necessary. 

Traversing  an  area  rich  in  scenic  beauty,  this  trail  climbs  to  the  summit 
of  the  peak  which  according  to  legend  was  named  Squaw  Mountain  by 
Kineo,  a  mighty  Indian  warrior,  because  his  mother  died  here  (see  Tour  9). 
Starting  from  Squaw  Mountain  Inn,  2  m.  north  of  Greenville  Junction 
(see  Tour  9),  the  trail  skirts  the  east  base  of  Squaw  Mountain  for  i  mile, 
then  gradually  ascends. 

The  best  spot  for  rest  and  luncheon  is  near  the  top  of  the  mountain,  where 
there  are  a  fire  warden's  cabin  and  a  spring.  The  Fire  Lookout  Tower,  a 
short  distance  above  the  warden's  cabin,  affords  a  view  of  Moosehead 
Lake,  numerous  smaller  lakes  and  streams,  and  Mount  Kineo  and 
Spencer  Mountain. 


MOUNT  BLUE  TRAIL 


From  WELD  VILLAGE  to  SUMMIT  OF  MOUNT  BLUE  (alt.  3187),  1.8  m., 
1|  hrs.  Marked  trail;  no  guide  necessary. 


Hiking  and  Mountain  Climbing  431 

Trail  entrance  may  be  reached  by  motor  by  turning  right  at  four  corners  in 
Weld  Village  (see  Tour  4)  and  continuing  2  miles  to  the  base  of  the  mountain. 

The  first  stage  of  the  trail  is  a  moderate  climb  of  a  half  mile  to  a  fire 
warden's  cabin,  near  which  a  spring  of  cold  clear  water  bubbles  from  the 
rocks.  The  remainder  of  the  trail  is  steep.  The  summit,  a  flattened  crest 
with  outcropping  ledges  covered  with  scattered  evergreen  growth,  is 
crowned  with  a  Fire  Lookout  Tower. 


OTHER  SELECTED  MOUNTAIN  TRAILS 

MOUNT  ZIRCON  (alt.  2240)  from  Rumford.  0.7  w.,  45  min.  Marked. 
No  guide  necessary;  water  at  foot  of  trail. 

RUMFORD  WHITECAP  MOUNTAIN  (alt.  2197)  from  Rumford.  2m., 
1J  hrs.  Unmarked.  No  guide  necessary;  no  water. 

OLD  SPEC  MOUNTAIN  (alt.  4150)  from  Grafton  Notch  (see  Tour  14). 
1.5  m.,  2J  hrs.  Marked  (over  section  of  Mahoosuc  Trail  of  the  Appa- 
lachian System).  No  guide  necessary;  water  at  warden's  camp. 

OSSIPEE  MOUNTAIN  (alt.  1050)  fromE.  Waterboro  (see  Tour  11).  0.3 
m.,  20  min.  Marked.  No  guide  necessary;  no  water;  fire  lookout  tower. 

BALD  MOUNTAIN  (alt.  2572)  from  Carthage.  3.5  m.,  3i  hrs.  Marked 
by  cairns  on  ledges.  Start  at  Hill's  Pond;  no  guide  necessary;  no  water. 

PLEASANT  MOUNTAIN  (alt.  2007)  from  Denmark.  1.8  m.t  1J  hrs. 
Marked.  No  guide  necessary;  brook  near  trail. 

SABATTUS  MOUNTAIN  (alt.  1280)  f rom  LoveU  (see  Tour  15).  1.5  w., 
1  hr.  Unmarked.  Guide  advised;  no  water. 

TUMBLEDOWN  DICK  MOUNTAIN  (alt.  1740)  from  Gilead  (see  Tour 
14).  1m.,  I  hr.  Unmarked.  No  guide  necessary;  no  water.  Ascent  must 
be  made  without  trail,  over  steep  ledges. 

STONE  MOUNTAIN  (alt.  1580)  from  Brownfield  (see  Tour  15).  1.5  m., 
1  hr.  Unmarked.  No  guide  necessary;  no  water. 

CARIBOU  MOUNTAIN  (alt.  2828)  from  Mason.   3.5  m.,  2%  hrs.   Un- 
marked. Guide  unnecessary;  water  near-by;  shelter  near  summit. 
STREAKED  MOUNTAIN  (alt.  1770)  from  Buckfield.    1  m.,  45  min. 
Unmarked,  but  well  defined.  Guide  unnecessary;  no  water. 
BEAR  MOUNTAIN  (alt.  1207)  from  North  Turner  (see  Tour  11).  1  m., 
1  hr.    Marked.  Guide  unnecessary;  no  water. 

AGAMENTICUS  (alt.  692)  from  Wells  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  a).  0.5  m., 
20  min.  Marked.  Guide  unnecessary;  picnic  facilities  at  mountain  base. 

MOUNT  KINEO  (alt.  1806)  from  Rockwood  (see  Tour  9).  0.3  m., 
45  min.  Marked.  Guide  unnecessary,  but  dangerous  climbing  (no  guard 
rails) ;  no  water. 


432  Sports  and  Recreation 


DOUBLETOP  MOUNTAIN  (alt.  3520)  from  Bradeen's  Camps  at  Kid- 
ney Pond.  4.5  w.,  4  hrs.  Marked.  Guide  necessary;  no  water. 

TUMBLEDOWN  (alt.  3600)  from  Weld  (see  Tour  4).  3  m.,  I  day.  Un- 
marked. Guide  unnecessary;  water. 

MOUNT  BATTIE  (alt.  800)  from  Camden  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  b).  I  m., 
1  hr.  Marked.  Guide  unnecessary;  water;  stone  observation  tower. 

CHAMPLAIN  MOUNTAIN  (alt.  1060)  from  Bar  Harbor  (see  Tour  2). 
1  m.y  1  hr.  Marked.  Guide  unnecessary;  water;  National  Park  Service 
(Acadia  National  Park). 

BIGELOW  MOUNTAIN  (alt.  4150)  from  Dead  River  (see  Tour  11). 
4.5  m.,  3  hrs.  Marked  (via  section  Appalachian  System). 

COB  URN  MOUNTAIN  (alt.37i8)  from  Township  3,  Range  6  (Upper  En- 
chanted). 4  m.,  3  hrs.  Marked.  Guide  necessary;  water  at  warden's 
cabin  en  route. 


RIDING 


HORSEBACK  riding  has  come  into  its  own  in  Maine  within  the  past  few 
years.  The  Maine  Development  Commission  and  the  Maine  Horse 
Association  are  completing  a  system  of  saddle  trails  which  thus  far  covers 
more  than  half  the  State.  The  trails,  marked  by  orange  boards  bearing  a 
black  horseshoe  encircling  the  trail  number,  have  been  planned  to  utilize 
abandoned  roads,  old  trolley-line  beds,  tote  and  dirt  roads,  avoiding  as 
far  as  possible  hard-surfaced  highways  and  heavy  traffic. 

Experienced  riders  as  well  as  beginners  will  find  many  interesting  trips  in 
Maine.  The  trails  wind  past  mountains  and  lakes,  traverse  meadows  and 
woods,  follow  rivers  and  streams,  and  pass  through  pastoral  villages. 
Whether  he  is  on  the  road  one  day  or  a  week,  the  horseman  will  find 
adequate  accommodations  along  the  way.  Visiting  riders  are  offered  the 
courtesies  of  numerous  riding  clubs  throughout  the  State. 

The  two  bridle  path  trips  outlined  here  are  representative  of  opposite 
types  of  terrain  and  scenery  encountered  by  the  horseman  in  Maine. 
The  first,  leaving  a  thriving  city  behind,  strikes  into  the  wilderness,  and 
is  never  far  from  the  lakes,  mountains,  and  forests  of  northern  Maine. 
The  second  passes  through  regions  which  are  definitely  rural,  mountains 
and  forests  forming  only  distant  impressive  backgrounds  to  the  quiet 
countryside. 


Riding  433 


SADDLE  TRIP  OUT  OF  BANGOR 

From  BANGOR  to  CHESUNCOOK  VILLAGE,  136  *».,  8-10  days.  State  Trail 
No.  1. 

Via  Bradford   Center,   Lakeview,   Brownville,   Katahdin  Iron  Works,   and 

Kokadjo. 

Well  marked  and  clearly  denned  trail  after  leaving  Bangor  city  limits. 

Eleven  lunch  and  night  stops  (advance  reservations  should  be  made  for  ac- 
commodations for  rider,  and  hay,  grain,  and  tieup  for  horse) ;  ample  tieups  at 
night  stops;  mounted  guide  service  between  Grant's  Farm  and  Chesuncook 
Village  obtainable  at  Grant's  Farm. 

Leaving  Bangor,  the  trail  wanders  through  a  rural  area  gradually  revert- 
ing to  thick  woods  from  the  once  fertile  agricultural  land  of  northwestern 
Penobscot  County.  The  central  section  of  the  trail  touches  small  villages 
which  once  bustled  with  activity  as  the  trading  centers  of  a  prosperous 
farming  area,  but  which  now  quietly  drowse  except  during  the  hunting 
seasons,  when  red-capped  gunners  fill  all  available  accommodations.  The 
northern  section,  after  leaving  Katahdin  Iron  Works,  follows  tote  and 
corduroy  roads  through  the  timber  area  north  of  Brownville  Junction, 
where  splendid  lakes,  well  stocked  with  fish,  lie  gem-like  in  the  vast  dim- 
ness of  great  pine  and  spruce  forests. 

At  0  m.  the  trail  starts  from  the  Bangor  Fair  Grounds  (see  BANGOR)  to 
follow  Fair  Grounds  fence  for  300  yards,  then  left  on  dirt  road  one-fourth 
mile  to  fork;  left  at  fork  on  dirt  road  for  one-fourth  mile  to  junction  with 
side  road,  then  bear  right  and  continue  three-fourths  mile  to  turn  right 
on  Webster  Ave.  Left  from  Webster  Ave.  to  Silver  Rd.;  continue  on 
Silver  Rd.  to  Hammond  St.,  then  left  across  fields  to  dirt  road  paralleling 
car  tracks  for  1.5  miles.  Bear  left  across  field  to  large  green  barn  and 
cross  Union  St.  to  follow  stone  wall  one-fourth  mile.  Bear  sharp  right  on 
Ohio  St.  and  continue  to  red  barn,  then  left  for  one-half  mile  to  turn  right 
on  Finson  Rd.  Continue  on  Finson  Rd.  for  3.3  miles  to  join  Broadway; 
right  on  Broadway  for  200  yards,  then  left  on  Milo  Rd.  to  cross  railroad 
tracks  (watch  for  trail  markers). 

DAVIS  FARM  (red  barn),  19  m. 

Lunch  accommodations  for  any  number.   Stable  for  15  horses. 

Continue  on  Milo  Rd.  to  U.S.  Bench  Mark  172  i/BM,  and  straight 
ahead  through  woods  to  BRADFORD  CENTER,  a  small  village  that  is 
principally  a  trading  center  for  the  surrounding  farming  area.  There  is 
fine  fishing  in  Mohawk  Stream  (L)  near  State  221,  along  which  the  trail 
follows  on  leaving  the  village. 

DOW  FARM,  28  m. 

Ten  bedrooms.   Stable  for  10  horses.  Telephone. 

For  the  next  10  miles,  the  trail  passes  through  a  former  agricultural  area. 


434  Sports  and  Recreation 

Many  of  the  homesteads  are  decaying  and  iincared  for,  while  the  once 
rich  farmland  is  gradually  growing  up  to  second-growth  hardwood. 
Occasional  small  garden  plots  contrast  with  the  neglected  area  surround- 
ing them. 

DEAN  CAMPS,  40  m. 

Four  bedrooms  (2  beds  each),  one  cottage  (3  beds),  2  stalls,  tieup  for  6  horses, 
hay  and  grain.  Telephone.  Lunch  accommodations  for  20  riders. 

From  Dean  Camps,  the  trail  swings  through  the  outskirts  of  MILO  (see 
Tour  8),  an  industrial,  commercial,  and  farming  community  in  a  heavily 
wooded  area  near  the  junction  of  the  Sebec  River  with  the  Piscataquis 
River.  The  trail  follows  Highland  Ave.  to  cross  a  bridge,  then  first  street 
right,  and  first  road  left. 

The  next  few  miles  are  through  a  heavily  wooded  section,  where  the 
menace  of  forest  fire  constantly  lurks.  Thousands  of  acres  of  valuable 
timber  have  been  laid  waste  in  areas  such  as  this.  Care  should  be  ex- 
ercised, for  a  lighted  match  or  live  cigarette  carelessly  dropped  into  the 
underbrush  may  be  fanned  by  a  slight  breeze  and  cause  a  blazing  inferno. 

LAKEVIEW,  52  m. 

Lakeview  House:  20  bedrooms,  10  double  stalls,  20  straight  stalls,  hay  and 
grain.  Telephone. 

Once  the  site  of  a  large  mill  of  the  American  Thread  Company,  Lake- 
view  is  now  almost  a  deserted  village.  Sprawling  along  the  west  shore  of 
the  long  Schoodic  Lake  (noted  for  its  excellent  trout  fishing),  with  the 
dark  peak  of  Mount  Katahdin  looming  in  the  background,  are  the  dis- 
mantled mill  property  and  the  empty  dwellings  of  its  one-time  employees. 

Leaving  Lakeview  by  returning  over  the  Milo  Road  for  2  miles  to  take  the 
second  road  right,  the  trail  leads  into  BROWNVILLE  (see  Tour  8A),  a 
small  village  lying  on  both  sides  of  Pleasant  River.  The  trail  follows 
State  221  from  Brownville. 

ARBO  HOME,  66  m. 

Four  stalls,  4  tieups,  hay  and  grain.  Telephone. 

From  Arbo's  the  trail  runs  straight  through  deep  woods  for  6  miles. 
Deer  and  other  wild  animals  are  occasionally  seen  along  this  road. 

KATAHDIN  IRON  WORKS,  72  m. 

Mrs.  A.  L.  Green:  3  bedrooms  main  house,  i  cottage  (5  beds),  16  stalls,  hay  and 
grain.  Telephone. 

Once  the  site  of  a  bog  iron  mining  venture,  this  small  settlement  is  now 
used  as  base  headquarters  in  the  lumbering  operations  of  the  Pleasant 
River  Lumber  Co.  Four  miles  northwest  of  here,  and  reached  only  by 
hiking,  is  The  Gulf,  a  spectacular  rocky  canyon  through  which  rushes 
Pleasant  River.  Near-by  are  several  waterfalls  and  lakes  (see  Tour  &4). 

Leaving  Katahdin  Iron  Works  over  the  Pleasant  River  bridge,  the  trail 
leads  through  splendid  forest  growth  to  the  Hermitage,  a  private  camp  in 
a  grove  of  towering  pines.  About  i  mile  from  the  Hermitage,  over  a  foot 


Riding  435 


trail,  are  the  Screw  Auger  Falls  on  Gulf  Hagas  Brook,  a  series  of  cascades 

with  a  zigzag  descent  of  125  feet. 

MACLEOD  CALL  CAMP,  84  m. 

Six  cabins  (2-5  bunks  in  each),  stabling  for  20  horses,  hay  and  grain.    No 

telephone. 

There  are  no  lunch  stops  or  stables  for  18  miles  beyond  this  camp,  and 
arrangements  should  be  made  here  for  a  buckboard  to  carry  luncheon  and 
hay  and  grain  along  for  the  noon  rest-stop. 
KOKADJO,  102  m.  (see  Tour  7). 

Inn:  Accommodations  for  20  persons,  stable  for  20  horses,  hay  and  grain. 
Telephone. 

Take  first  left  road  after  leaving  Kokadjo,  then  straight  ahead  for  12 
miles. 

GRANT'S  FARM,  114  m. 

Accommodations  for  25  persons,  stable  for  any  number  of  horses,  hay  and  grain. 
Telephone.   Mounted  guide  service. 

From  Grant's  to  Chesuncook  Village,  the  trail  traverses  an  area  densely 
covered  with  big  timber.  Winding  through  narrow  aisles  beneath  fragrant 
balsam  and  along  crystal-clear  brooks  which  suddenly  hurtle  over  rocky 
beds  in  a  mass  of  foam  and  spray,  with  here  and  there  beautiful  vistas 
across  wide  lakes,  the  trail  affords  opportunity  for  seeing  a  part  of  Maine 
little  known  to  the  average  rider. 
CHESUNCOOK  VILLAGE,  136  m. 

Inn:  Accommodations  for  25  persons;  stable  for  25  horses  in  village. 
This  isolated  settlement  deep  in  the  woods  nestles  on  the  shore  of  Chesun- 
cook Lake,  a  popular  fishing  area  and  the  starting  place  of  many  canoe 
trips.   Sporting  camps  scattered  along  its  pine-fringed  shores  are  served 
by  steamer. 


SADDLE  TRIP  OUT  OF  AUGUSTA 

From  AUGUSTA  to  JEFFERSON,  24  m.  State  Trail  No.  13. 
Via  North  Whitefield. 

Well-marked  trail.  Reservations  for  overnight  accommodations  for  riders  and 
stabling  for  horses  at  Del  Andrews  Camps  in  Jefferson  should  be  made  before 
leaving  Augusta. 

Following  along  a  back  road,  with  little  motor  traffic,  this  route  winds 
through  an  area  of  diversified  farming,  where  pastoral  vistas  over  broad 
fields  and  rolling  hills  vie  with  views  of  blue  lakes  and  wooded  hillsides. 
At  AUGUSTA,  the  starting  point,  the  trail  follows  US  201  from  Water  St. 
across  the  Kennebec  River  bridge.  To  the  left  is  the  dam  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  this  river,  while  (R)  stands  Fort  Western,  with  its  stockade 


436  Sports  and  Recreation 


and  blockhouse  of  hand-hewn  logs,  built  in  1754.  The  route  continues 
straight  ahead  up  Cony  St.,  turning  at  the  top  of  the  grade  to  Stone  St. 
(State  17). 

At  about  1  m.,  the  trail  leaves  Stone  St.  to  follow  Hospital  St.  At  the  right 
is  the  Augusta  State  Hospital,  with  the  granite  buildings  of  the  former 
United  States  Arsenal,  on  a  side  hill  of  the  grounds.  Farther  along  is  a 
splendid  view  (R)  of  Augusta's  west  side,  with  the  State  House  in  the  fore- 
ground, backed  by  the  wooded  expanse  of  Ganeston  Park.  Hallowell 
(see  Tour  10)  lies  to  the  southwest. 

At  about  2  m.,  the  trail  joins  State  226,  and  a  left  turn  is  made  on  a  gravel 
road  leading  to  the  United  States  Veterans  Administration  Facility  at 
Togus  (see  Tour  17). 

Leaving  Togus  by  the  North  Gate,  the  trail  swings  right  on  State  17,  a 
hard-surfaced  road  which  is  followed  2.5  m.  to  the  junction  with  a  gravel 
road  (R),  on  which  it  continues  up  Nolan  Hill  to  join  State  126  on  Jay 
Ridge.  The  next  few  miles  are  through  an  area  of  wooded  and  farming 
country. 

At  about  13.5  ~m.  (R)  stands  St.  Denis  Catholic  Church  (see  Tour  17), 
erected  in  1833  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  log  church. 

NORTH  WHITEFIELD  is  reached  at  15  m.  (see  Tour  17).  In  mid, 
October  the  Whitefield  Fish  and  Game  Club  serves  an  annual  game  sup- 
per here,  consisting  of  venison,  rabbit  pie,  partridge,  and  sometimes 
raccoon  and  bear. 

Leaving  North  Whitefield,  the  junction  of  State  126,  State  218,  a  local 
road  is  reached.  Following  the  local  road  southeast  over  Jones'  Hill 
for  4  miles  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road,  the  trail  turns  left  on  this  latter 
and  follows  along  the  west  shore  of  Dyer  Long  Pond  for  2  miles,  to  rejoin 
State  126.  It  then  bears  right  on  State  126  for  a  2-mile  stretch  through 
woods,  to  the  junction  of  State  126  and  State  213. 

Swinging  right  on  State  213,  the  trail  follows  along  a  ridge  overlooking 
Damariscotta  Lake,  to  reach  its  destination  at  Del  Andrews  Camps  in  the 
town  of  Jefferson,  24  m. 


OTHER  SELECTED  SADDLE  TRAILS 

From  NORTH  POWNAL  to  WATERVILLE,  71.5  m.,  3-4  days,  Trail 

No.  3.    Via  Wales,  Winthrop,  and  Augusta.    Seven  lunch  and  night 

stops. 

From  BRUNSWICK  to  AUGUSTA,  36  m.,  1-2  days,  Trail  No.  4.   Via 

Gardiner  and  Hallowell.  Two  lunch  and  night  stops. 

From  INTERSECTION  OF  TRAIL  NO.  3  to  WATERVILLE,  34.5  m., 
2-3  days,  Trail  No.  5.  Via  Readfield  Depot,  Rome,  and  South  Smith- 
field,  Three  lunch  and  two  night  stops. 


Yachting  437 


From  BRUNSWICK  to  WEST  AUBURN,  54  m.,  2-3  days,  Trail  No.  9. 
Via  Lisbon  Falls,  Webster,  and  Lewiston.  Three  lunch  and  night  stops. 

From  EAST  RAYMOND  to  HACKETT'S  MILLS,  18  m.,  1-2  days, 
Trail  No.  14.  Via  Poland  Spring.  Three  lunch  and  night  stops. 

From  NORTH  RAYMOND  to  RANGE  HILL,  20  m.,  1-2  days,  Trail 
14- A.  Via  Webb's  Mills.  Two  lunch  and  night  stops. 


YACHTING 


MAINE'S  many  islands,  providing  almost  continuous  shelter  for  small 
sailing  vessels,  together  with  a  variety  of  scenic  beauty  and  an  abundance 
of  good  harbors,  have  made  the  Maine  coast  a  mecca  for  the  yachtsman. 
Most  of  those  who  live  on  these  shores  during  the  summer  months  spend 
many  of  their  waking  hours  in  boats;  and  yacht  racing  —  whether  of 
small  i2-footers  in  the  juvenile  class  or  of  sea-going  vessels  handled  by 
salty  professionals  —  has  become  one  of  the  important  sports  of  the 
State. 

Formal  races  are  staged  at  the  York  County  resorts  several  times  during 
the  season,  especially  at  Kennebunkport,  York  Harbor,  and  Biddeford 
Pool;  and  there  are,  in  addition,  many  impromptu  events.  Interest  in 
small-boat  racing  at  Portland  is  not  so  great  as  in  former  years;  but  several 
of  the  minor  resort  regions,  such  as  the  New  Meadows  River  Basin,  have 
formed  their  own  regattas  and  hold  regularly  scheduled  races.  Boothbay 
Harbor  has  an  annual  program  of  weekly  yachting  events,  which  includes 
at  least  one  ocean  race  during  the  summer. 

At  Camden  there  is  a  large  class  of  so-called  HAJ  boats,  identical  in  form 
and  rig,  all  3o-footers,  built  in  Finland  several  years  ago  and  exported  to 
this  country.  Semi-weekly  races  of  these  boats  are  held  by  the  younger 
group  of  yachtsmen.  Two  series  of  races  are  arranged  here  each  summer, 
and  special  events  in  connection  with  the  Rockport  Carnival  and  Regatta 
include  a  captains'  race,  a  Labor  Day  race,  and  an  overnight  cruise. 
Competition  in  these  races  is  keen;  and  the  course,  laid  outside  Camden 
Harbor,  is  a  difficult  test  of  the  sailing  ability  of  the  young  skippers,  many 
of  whom  are  girls. 

At  Dark  Harbor  on  Islesboro  Island  there  is  equally  enthusiastic  racing 
activity.  Several  classes  of  one-design  boats,  principally  1 2-f ooters  and  1 7- 
footers,  participate  in  an  annual  series  of  summer  races.  A  similar  fleet  at 
North  Haven,  farther  out  in  Penobscot  Bay,  confines  its  activities  chiefly 
to  the  sheltered  reaches  between  North  Haven  and  Vinalhaven. 


43$  Sports  and  Recreation 

The  resorts  farther  east  also  have  their  fleets  of  one-design  boats.  At  Bar 
Harbor  and  Northeast  Harbor,  the  yachts  are  fewer  in  number  but  larger 
in  size  than  in  the  Penobscot  region  and  on  the  lower  coast.  Boats  of  the 
'Bull's  Eye'  class  are  especially  prominent  in  the  Bar  Harbor  region. 

The  principal,  yachting  event  of  the  year  in  Maine  is  the  annual  Monhegan 
Island  race,  staged  by  the  Portland  Yacht  Club.  This  attracts  entries 
from  as  far  south  as  Marblehead,  Mass.,  and  from  all  sections  of  the  Maine 
coast.  The  boats  race  over  a  loo-mile  course  from  Portland  Head  to  Cape 
Porpoise,  thence  to  Monhegan  Island  and  back  to  Portland,  usually  fin- 
ishing within  30  hours  under  favorable  weather  conditions. 

Small  regattas  and  regularly  scheduled  races  are  held  on  some  of  the 
larger  lakes,  particularly  at  Sebago  and  Moosehead,  although  in  general 
motor  boating  is  a  more  popular  sport  on  fresh  water. 


WINTER      SPORTS 


FOR  nearly  a  century  ice  skating,  tobogganing,  fishing  through  the  ice, 
and  harness  racing  on  ice  have  been  the  chief  winter  sports  in  Maine. 
More  recently,  ice  hockey  has  been  developed  from  the  original  game 
played  by  the  American  Indians  on  dry  land,  and  many  teams  rep- 
resenting Maine's  schools,  colleges,  and  private  athletic  organizations 
compete  with  each  other  and  with  groups  from  other  States  and  from 
Canada  in  this  brilliant,  fast-moving  sport.  Yet  not  until  the  past  few 
years  has  Maine  become  aware  of  the  unusual  facilities  for  winter  sports 
available  in  various  parts  of  the  State.  The  leading  colleges  and  schools, 
of  course,  have  for  many  years  presented  programs  of  winter  sports,  but 
these  activities  are  limited  locally  and  only  few  persons  are  able  to  com- 
pete in  them.  But  now  most  of  the  leading  cities  and  towns  —  Lewiston, 
Bath,  Augusta,  Waterville,  Bangor,  Rumford,  Camden,  Fryeburg,  North 
Berwick,  Bar  Harbor,  Houlton,  and  Presque  Isle  —  have  their  ski  trails 
and  jumps,  toboggan  runs,  snowshoe  trails,  and  skating  rinks;  and  a 
winter  carnival,  with  an  ice  palace  and  a  carnival  queen,  is  held  in  each  of 
these  communities.  The  more  ambitious  of  the  carnivals  have  horse  and 
iceboat  racing,  even  dog-sled  competitions.  There  are  always  breath- 
taking exhibitions  of  skill  on  skates  or  skis,  but  there  is  a  generally 
prevailing  spirit  of  good-natured  competition  rather  than  the  more  bitter 
partisanship  of  strenuous  athletic  contests. 

Maine's  topography  —  rolling  mountain  slopes  and  high  hills  —  the  con- 
sistency of  its  snows,  warm  sunshine,  good  transportation,  and  the 


Winter  Sports  439 


availability  of  accommodations  are  its  chief  attractions  as  a  winter 
sports  country.  Civic  developments  of  natural  facilities  are  adding 
greatly  to  this  list.  Railroads  operate  'snow  trains'  from  Portland  to 
Fryeburg,  Rumford,  Greenville,  and  other  sports  centers,  and  each  winter 
finds  Maine's  highways  in  better  condition. 

Fishing  through  the  ice  is  possible  on  many  of  the  countless  Maine  lakes 
and  ponds,  or  on  the  rivers  (see  Hunting  and  Fishing).  Frost-fishing 
(smelting)  is  a  remunerative  sport  enjoyed  at  night  on  tidal  streams  near 
the  coast. 

Harness  racing  on  ice,  an  early  sport  in  the  State,  is  being  revived  at  some 
of  the  winter  carnivals.  The  straight  course,  laid  on  lake  or  river,  has  an 
advantage  over  the  oval  dirt  tracks  of  the  summer  fairgrounds  in  that  it 
gives  opportunity  for  achieving  greater  bursts  of  speed  and  affords  more 
favorable  views  of  the  race  to  the  spectators.  Horses  are  equipped  with 
caulked  shoes,  and  drivers  are  heavily  dressed.  Otherwise,  the  races, 
thrilling  and  fast  as  they  are,  are  no  different  from  those  of  the  various 
county  fairs  held  throughout  the  country  through  the  summer  and  fall 
months.  The  same  horses  are  run,  and  the  regulation  sulkies  are  used. 
Betting  is  unofficial  and  illegal. 

Iceboats,  run  by  sail  or  by  propeller,  are  raced  on  many  of  the  larger  lakes 
and  rivers.  At  Island  Park  on  Lake  Cobbosseecontee  (see  Tour  13) ,  an  ice- 
boat'regatta  has  been  held  for  many  years,  the  local  residents  competing 
in  the  fast  and  exciting  races  with  vessels  of  individual  design  and  manu- 
facture. This  regatta  has  become  semi-official  although  there  is  at  present 
no  organized  iceboat  racing  in  Maine.  Lake  Cobbosseecontee  contin- 
ues as  a  center  for  the  sport,  certain  of  the  iceboats  raced  there  having 
been  in  use  each  season  over  a  period  of  twenty-five  years.  Moosehead 
Lake  is  also  becoming  well  known  for  its  ice-sailing.  There  are  several 
reasons  why  iceboating  should  grow  in  popularity  in  Maine.  It  is  fairly 
inexpensive;  the  boats  themselves  are  simple  enough  to  build  from  easily 
obtainable  materials.  The  only  parts  that  cannot  be  produced  by  home 
manufacture  are  the  steel  runners  (skates  or  'shoes').  Even  with  the  most 
modest  craft  it  is  possible  to  attain  a  high  rate  of  speed  —  sixty  miles  an 
hour  is  not  unusual.  And  in  the  open  cockpit  of  the  boat,  with  ice  shavings 
flying  from  the  runners  and  gleaming  islands  or  wooded  shore  streaming 
by,  the  wind  whipping  the  faces  of  the  passengers,  the  sensation  is  one  of 
really  great  speed,  much  greater  of  course  than  that  which  the  boat 
actually  attains.  Even  with  the  possibility  of  great  speed,  the  sport  can- 
not be  considered  a  dangerous  one.  Being  thrown  from  a  fast-moving  ice- 
boat seldom  brings  more  than  a  few  bruises. 

Dog-sled  racing  is  another  sport  that  is  rapidly  attaining  prominence  in 
the  State.  The  races  at  Poland  Spring  have  formerly  drawn  contestants 
from  as  far  away  as  Alaska,  and  the  events  were  given  much  publicity. 
Although  some  of  the  winter  carnivals,  notably  Rumford,  have  featured 
dog-racing,  Poland  Spring  has  been  most  outstanding  for  the  sport 
in  Maine.  Lotal  racers,  however,  travel  with  their  dogs  into  New  Hamp- 
shire, New  York,  and  Canada  each  winter  to  compete  with  enthusiasts 


44°  Sports  and  Recreation 

from  all  sections  of  the  northern  part  of  the  continent.  Many  Maine 
residents  are  breeding  and  training  racing  dogs;  some  of  the  animals  come 
from  Husky  strains,  some  are  Norwegian  or  Siberian  dogs,  some  are  of 
well-known  hunting  breeds,  such  as  setters,  and  others  are  just  mongrels. 
Often  the  fastest  dogs  have  wolf  blood  in  them.  Chief  among  Maine's 
breeders  and  racers  has  been  Mrs.  E.  P.  Ricker  of  Poland  Spring,  the  only 
woman  champion  dog-sled  racer  of  the  State. 

The  following  is  a  selected  list  of  a  few  of  the  winter  sports  offered  in  some 
of  Maine's  communities. 

ANDOVER  (see  Tour  4). 
Available  facilities:  Ski  jumps. 

BANGOR  (see  BANGOK). 

Available  facilities:  Skating.  Ski  trails  —  Bald  Mountain  No.  i,  0.5  m.  long,  20-25 
ft.  wide,  720  ft.  vertical  descent,  25°  maximum  grade,  class  in  upper  part  is  expert, 
class  in  lower  part  is  intermediate;  —  Bald  Mountain  No.  2, 0.25  m.  long,  20-40  ft. 
wide,  480  ft.  vertical  descent,  28°  maximum  grade,  class  is  intermediate;  —  Ryder's 
Bluff,  0.5  m.  long,  300  ft.  wide,  20°  maximum  grade,  class  is  intermediate  and 
novice;  —  Graystone  Farm  Slope,  0.25  m.  long,  150  ft.  wide,  18°  maximum  grade, 
class  is  intermediate  and  novice;  —  Paradise  Park,  0.37  m.  long,  450  ft.  wide,  28° 
maximum  grade,  floodlighted,  class  is  intermediate  and  novice. 

BAR  HARBOR  and  ACADIA  NATIONAL  PARK  (see  Tour  2). 
Available  facilities:  50  miles  of  rolling  carriage  roads  for  cross-country  skiing  on 
island.  Ski  trails  —  South  Face  Trail  on  Western  Mountain,  0.75  m.  long,  15-45  ft. 
wide,  750  ft.  vertical  descent,  20°  maximum  grade,  S.  exposure,  6-12  in.  snow,  class 
is  intermediate,  lean-to  shelter  and  parking  space;  —  West  Side  McFarland's  Hill, 
0.37  m.  long,  15-35  ft.  wide,  350  ft.  vertical  descent,  28°  maximum  grade,  SW.  ex- 
posure, 8  in.  snow,  class  is  novice  to  intermediate;  —  Stemwinder  on  McFarland's 
Hill,  0.25  m.  long,  10-60  ft.  wide,  350  ft.  vertical  descent,  18°  maximum  grade.  E. 
exposure,  8  in.  snow,  class  is  novice  to  intermediate;  —  The  Loop  on  McFarland's 
Hill,  0.5  m.  long,  10-60  ft.  wide,  350  ft.  vertical  descent,  18°  maximum  grade,  S. 
exposure,  8  in.  snow,  class  is  novice;  —  Open  Slope  on  McFarland's  Hill  (20  acres), 
75-600  ft.  wide,  200  ft.  vertical  descent,  15°  maximum  grade.  Ski  tows  —  on 
McFarland's  practice  slope,  800  ft.  long,  200  ft.  vertical  descent,  15°  maximum 
grade. 

BRIDGTON  (see  Tour  18). 

Available  facilities:  Ski  trails  —  several,  information  available  locally. 

CAMDEN  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  &):  Camden  Winter  Carnival,  dates  tentative  annually. 
Available  facilities:  Ice  boating,  skating,  hockey,  harness  racing  on  ice,  Lodge 
House,  and  Hosmer  Pond  Snow  Bowl  (said  to  be  the  only  permanent  winter  sports 
area  of  its  kind  in  New  England)  for  athletics.  Ski  trails  —  Spring  Brook,  4  m. 
long,  8-12  ft.  wide,  600  ft.  vertical  descent  from  apex  2  m.  on  either  side,  15° 
maximum  grade,  N.  by  NE.  exposure;  —  Cameron  Mountain  (from  W.  side  Bald 
Rock  Mountain  on  Spring  Brook  Trail  to  Zeke's  Lookout),  1.75  m.  long,  8-10  ft. 
wide,  500  ft.  vertical  descent,  23°  maximum  grade,  NW.  by  W.  exposure;  —  Zeke's 
Lookout  (Spring  Brook  Valley  up  Mt.  Megunticook,  northwest  along  ridge  to 
Zeke's  Lookout,  northeast  to  midpoint  on  Spring  Brook  Trail),  2.25  m.  long,  8-12 
ft.  wide,  500  ft.  vertical  descent  in  0.5  m.,  22°  maximum  grade,  NE.  by  E.  exposure, 
class  is  intermediate  and  expert;  —  Mt.  Megunticook  Slope,  2  m.  long,  8-10  ft. 
wide,  400  ft.  vertical  descent  in  0.5  m.,  20°  maximum  grade,  NE.  exposure,  class  is 
novice  to  intermediate;  Cross  Country  Trail,  4  m.  long,  7-12  ft.  wide,  15°  max- 
imum grade.  Ski  jumps  —  practice.  Ski  tow  —  i  electric,  900  ft.  long,  186  ft. 
vertical  ascent,  slope  flood-lighted  for  night  use.  Toboggan  chute. 


Winter  Sports  441 


CARIBOU  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  e):  Caribou  Winter  Carnival,  dates  tentative  annually. 
Available  facilities:  Skating  on  Aroostook  River,  dog-sled  and  horse  racing,  shooting, 
and  other  sports.  Ski  trails  —  3;  open  slopes  —  3;  ski  jumps  —  i;  ski  marathon 
from  Bangor  to  Caribou  (longest  ski  race  in  the  United  States). 

FORT  FAIRFIELD  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  e):  Fort  Fairfield  Winter  Carnival,  dates 
tentative  annually. 

Available  facilities:  Skating,  horse  racing  on  Aroostook  River,  dog-sled  racing,  ski- 
joring, and  sleighing.  Ski  trails  —  i  cross  country  (30  miles  long) ;  open  slopes  —  2 ; 
ski  jumps  —  i.  Snowshoe  trails  —  i. 

FRYEBURG  (see.  Tour  15) :  Winter  Sports  Carnival,  dates  tentative  annually. 
Available  facilities:  Ski  trails  —  Stark's  Hill  No.  i,  0.75  m.  long,  15-60  ft.  wide,  26° 
maximum  grade,  class  at  top  is  expert,  class  at  bottom  is  intermediate;  —  Stark's 
Hill  No.  2,  0.75  m.  long,  18-62  ft.  wide,  30°  maximum  grade,  class  at  top  is  expert, 
class  at  bottom  is  intermediate;  —  North  Chatham  Trail,  now  under  construction 
(1937),  will  be  for  experts  and  intermediate,  class  at  bottom  is  novice.  Ski  tow  at 
Jockey  Cap,  500  ft.  long,  100  ft.  vertical  ascent.  Snowshoe  trail.  Toboggan  chute. 

GREENVILLE  (see  Tour  9). 

Available  facilities:  Toboggan  chutes.  Skating. 

LEWISTON  (see  LEWISTON— AUBURN). 

Available  facilities:  Skating  rink.  Ski  trails  —  Sabattus  Mountain,  0.25  w.  long, 
10-30  ft.  wide,  1 200  ft.  vertical  descent,  34°  maximum  grade,  class  at  top  is  expert, 
class  at  bottom  is  novice;  open  slopes  —  large  number  undeveloped.  Ski  jump. 

NORTH  BERWICK  (see  Tour  11). 

Available  facilities:  Ski  trails,  open  slopes,  and  a  ski  tow  under  construction  (1937). 

PRESQUE  ISLE  (see  Tour  1,  sec.  e):  Winter  Sports  Carnival,  dates  tentative 

annually. 

Available  facilities:  Ski  jumps,  skating  rinks,  toboggan  runs,  and  snowshoe  trails. 

RUMFORD  (see  Tour  4):  Rumford  Winter  Carnival,  dates  tentative  annually. 
Available  facilities:  Skating  rink.  Ski  trails  —  Chisholm  Trail,  1.5  m.  long,  15-50 
ft.  wide,  1 100  ft.  vertical  descent,  35°  maximum  grade,  class  at  top  is  expert,  class  at 
bottom  is  novice;  —  Town  Trail,  0.5  m.  long,  10-20  ft.  wide,  900  ft.  vertical  descent, 
24°  maximum  grade,  class  is  intermediate  and  novice;  —  Paxton  Trail,  0.5  m.  long, 
12-18  ft.  wide,  1500  ft.  vertical  descent,  24°  maximum  grade,  class  is  intermediate 
and  novice;  —  VVoodrow  Trail,  0.75  m.  long,  15-40  ft.  wide,  22°  maximum  grade, 
class  at  top  is  intermediate,  class  at  bottom  is  novice;  open  slopes  —  4;  cross- 
country ski  trail  (12  miles  long).  Ski  jump  (1935  eastern  Championship  60- 
meter  jump).  Snowshoe  trails  —  15. 

WATERVILLE  (see  WATERY  I LLE):  Winter  Sports  Competitive,  dates  tenta- 
tive annually. 


CHRONOLOGY 


iooo-io  (ca.)  The  Norsemen,  first  Europeans  known  to  have  visited  North 

America,  probably  explore  coast  of  Maine. 

1492  Era  of  active  exploration  in  western  hemisphere  begins  with  Colum- 
bus' voyage. 

1497-99  Explorations  of  John  and  Sebastian  Cabot  along  entire  coast  of  New 
England,  forming  basis  for  all  future  English  claims  to  this  region. 

1524  Giovanni  da  Verrazzano,  in  service  of  France,  explores  to  35°  N.  Lat. 
First  to  give  Aranbega  (Norumbega)  as  a  definite  locality. 

1525  Estevan  Gomez,  a  Portuguese  exploring  fer  Spain,  names  the  Penob- 
scot  Rio  de  los  Gamos  or  'river  of  stags,'  because  of  many  deer  there. 

1569  David  Ingram  and  two  other  English  sailors,  marooned  by  Sir  John 
Hawkins,  make  overland  journey  from  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  Nova  Scotia. 
Ingram  later  wrote  account  of  their  adventures,  telling  of  splendors 
of  mythical  city  of  Norumbega  on  Penobscot  River. 

1580  John  Walker,  sailing  for  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert,  leads  expedition  into 
Penobscot  River  region. 

1602  Bartholomew  Gosnold,  in  bark  ' Concord'  out  of  Falmouth,  England, 
takes  back  furs,  sassafras,  and  cedar  from  Maine  coast,  his  voyage 
causing  renewed  interest  in  New  World. 

1603  Martin  Pring,  sent  by  merchants  of  Bristol  to  trade  with  Indians, 
makes  careful  survey  of  Maine  coast  from  the  Piscataqua  to  the 
Penobscot,  naming  islands  in  Penobscot  Bay  'Fox  Islands.' 

Henry  IV  of  France  appoints  Sieur  de  Monts  Lieutenant- General  of 
La  Cadie,  giving  him  seignorial  rights  to  territory  between  40°  and 
56°  N.  Lat. 

1604-05  Sieur  de  Monts  with  company  of  gentlemen-adventurers  establishes 
colony  on  St.  Croix  Island  (near  present-day  Calais);  Samuel  de 
Champlain  makes  extensive  explorations  and  detailed  maps  of  islands 
and  coastline  of  Maine;  colony  disbands  after  hard  winter  and  re- 
moves to  Nova  Scotia. 

1605  Captain  George  Waymouth,  in  the  'Archangel,'  lands  at  Monhegan 
Island;  he  trades  with  Indians,  finally  kidnaping  five  of  them,  whom 
he  takes  back  to  England. 

1606  James  I  of  England  grants  two  charters  'to  colonize  Virginia';  one 
company,  known  as  the  London  Company,  being  granted  right  to 
colonize  'Southern  Virginia'  (34°  to38°N.);  the  other,  known  as 
West  of  England  Company  (or  Plymouth  Company),  given  right 
to  colonize  'Northern  Virginia'  (41°  to  45°  N.);  the  intermediate  terri- 
tory being  open  to  either  colony  after  having  settled  its  original  area. 

1607  Sunday,  August  9,  at  Allen's  Island,  colonists  from  the  'Gift  of  God' 
and  the  'Mary  and  John'  listen  to  sermon  of  Thanksgiving,  first 
English  service  on  New  England  soil. 


/} /|  4  Chronology 


Popham  Colony,  called  St.  George,  planted  on  HunniwelPs  Point  at 
the  end  of  Sagadahoc  Peninsula,  by  the  mouth  of  Kennebec. 

1608  A  ship  of  30  tons,  'Virginia  of  Sagadahoc/  first  vessel  constructed 
by  English  hands  in  New  World,  launched  into  the  Kennebec  at 
Popham  Colony. 

Popham  colonists  give  up  their  settlement  and  return  to  England. 

1609  Henry  Hudson,  in  the  'Half  Moon,'  during  his  search  for  a  North- 
west Passage,  puts  into  Casco  Bay  to  repair  his  storm-battered  vessel 
after  a  tempestuous  voyage. 

Father  Pierre  Biard,  Jesuit  priest,  accompanies  French  traders  into 
Maine  and  establishes  first  Indian  mission  at  Indian  Island  on  the 
Penobscot,  beginning  spread  of  Christianity  among  Maine  Indians 
and  friendly  relations  between  them  and  the  French. 

1613  St.  Sauveur,  a  mission  and  settlement,  established  by  French  Jesuits 
at  entrance  to  Somes  Sound  on  Mt.  Desert  Island;   its  colonists 
are  shortly  expelled  as  trespassers  on  English  soil  by  Captain  Samuel 
Argall  of  Virginia,  who  sets  them  adrift  in  open  boats. 

1614  Captain  John  Smith  visits  Monhegan  Island  and  deserted  Sagadahoc 
colony,  sounds  'about  25  excellent  harbors'  on  Maine  coast,  and 
makes  map  of  region  from  Cape  Cod  to  Nova  Scotia,  which  he  calls 
New  England. 

1616-17  Captain  Richard  Vines  and  crew  of  16  men  spend  winter  at  mouth  of 
Saco  River  to  prove  Maine  climate  not  too  severe  for  Europeans; 
names  site  Winter  Harbor. 

1620  Pilgrims  land  at  Plymouth  from  the  'Mayflower/    Great  Patent  of 
New  England,  covering  territory  from  Philadelphia  to  Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence,  issued  by  King  James.  Territory  placed  under  a  council  at 
Plymouth,  England. 
Permanent  settlement  established  on  Monhegan  Island. 

1622  Land  between  Merrimac  and  Sagadahoc  (Kennebec)  Rivers  granted 
to  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges  and  Captain  John  Mason  by  Great  Council 
of  New  England. 

1623  First  successful  settlement  on  the  mainland  in  Maine  begun  at  Saco 
by  Richard  Vines  and  others;  marks  beginning  of  active  settlement 
along  coast  west  of  Penobscot  Bay. 

First  sawmill  in  America  in  operation  on  the  Piscataqua. 
Gorges  attempts  to  establish  general  government  for  New  England, 
sending  Robert  Gorges  to  Maine  for  this  purpose,  but  is  unsuccessful. 
Christopher  Levett  builds  home  on  what  is  believed  to  be  House 
Island  in  Portland  Harbor;  here  he  plans  to  erect  city  with  funds 
from  collection  in  churches  throughout  England  on  proclamation 
issued  by  the  King.  Although  Levett  fails,  proclamation  calls  wide 
attention  to  possibilities  for  colonization  in  Maine. 

1626-28  Trading  post  established  at  Pentagoet  (later  Castine)  on  the  Penobscot 
by  Pilgrims. 

Contention  begins  between  British  and  French  over  Acadia-in-Maine, 
region  between  Penobscot  and  St.  Croix  Rivers. 

1629  Plymouth  Colony  of  Massachusetts  granted  territorial  and  trading 
rights  to  'all  that  tracte  of  lande  . . .  adionethe  to  the  River  of  Kene- 
beke . . .  the  space  of  15  English  miles  on  each  side  of  the  river.' 


Chronology  445 


Trading  post  established  at  Machias  by  Pilgrims;  soon  captured  by 

the  French. 

Pilgrims  are  able  to  pay  most  of  debts  incurred  by  'Mayflower'  ex- 
pedition with  furs  from  Kennebec  region. 

Mason  and  Gorges  divide  their  province:  Mason  takes  land  west  of 

the  Piscataqua  and  names  it  New  Hampshire;  Gorges  takes  land  east 

of  the  Piscataqua  and  names  it  New  Somersetshire. 
1630-31  Plymouth  Council  (England),  perceiving  that  its  own  authority  may 

soon  pass,  grants  eight  patents  to  New  England  lands,  including 

Kennebec,  Lygonia,  Waldo  (or  Muscongus),  and  Pemaquid  grants. 
1632  French  raid  English  trading  house  at  Pentagoet.   Fort  at  Pemaquid 

attacked  and  demolished  by  notorious  English  pirate,  Dixey  Bull. 

English  cede  Acadia  to  France  by  Treaty  of  St.  Germaine-en-Laye. 
1635  Pilgrims  remaining  at  trading  post  at  Pentagoet  driven  out  by  French 

under  De  Charnisay. 

French  claim  as  far  west  as  Pemaquid  and  occupy  to  Penobscot  River. 

Council  of  New  England  surrenders  its  charter  to  the  King,  who  has 

become  suspicious  of  liberties  allowed  colonists. 

Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges  made  Governor- General  of  all  New  England; 

sends  his  nephew,  William  Gorges,  to  colonies  as  deputy-governor. 

1639  William  Gorges  organizes  government  of  New  Somersetshire,  with 
first  legally  organized  court  in  Maine  held  at  Saco  under  his  jurisdic- 
tion; returns  home  in  same  year. 

Gorges  obtains  charter  from  Charles  I  for  region  incorporated  as  'The 
Province  and  County  of  Maine.' 

Thomas  Purchase,  first  settler  of  Pejepscot  on  the  Androscoggin  (now 
Brunswick),  assigns  to  Governor  Winthrop  of  Massachusetts  'all  the 
tract  at  Pejepscot.' 

1640  Thomas  Gorges  appointed  Deputy-Governor  of  Province  of  Maine. 
'First  general  court'   (legislative  assembly)   under  Maine  charter 
established  at  Saco. 

1641  Gorgeana  (York)  chartered  as  first  English  city  in  America  under 
feudal  tenure  of  Gorges. 

1646  Father  Gabriel  Druillettes  establishes  Indian  mission  in  the  Norridge- 
wock  territory. 

Court  of  law  upholds  grant  of  Province  of  Lygonia  as  separate  from 
Province  of  Maine. 

1647  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges  dies.    Parliament  declares  his  grant  invalid. 
Thomas   Gorges   nevertheless   appoints   Edward   Godfrey   deputy- 
governor. 

Piscataqua  Plantation  formed,  including  present  towns  of  Kittery, 
North  and  South  Berwick,  and  Eliot. 
Kittery,  settled  1623,  incorporated  as  town. 

1650  (ca.)  Maine  in  great  confusion  as  result  of  contradictory  grants,  Indian 
raids,  pirates  on  coast,  and  lack  of  organized  government. 

1651  Massachusetts  claims  all  Maine  land  south  of  lat.  43°  43'  12"  with 
eastern  point  on  Upper  Clapboard  Island  in  Casco  Bay. 
Sir  William  Phips  born  at  Woolwich. 


446  Chronology 


1652  Province  of  Maine  comes  under  jurisdiction  of  Massachusetts  Bay 
Colony  in  spite  of  inhabitants'  protest;  Massachusetts  General  Court 
appoints  commissioners  to  settle  northern  boundary  of  colony. 
York  (formerly  Gorgeana)  incorporated  as  town. 

1653  John  Wincoln  of  Kittery  and  Edward  Rishworth  of  York,  representa- 
tives from  Maine,  seated  in  Massachusetts  General  Court. 

Wells,  Saco,  and  Cape  Porpoise  (Kennebunkport)  made  towns. 

1654  French  lose  control  of  all  territory  in  Maine. 

1655  Acadian  Province  confirmed  to  English,  who  hold  it  13  years. 

1658  Scarborough  (settled  1630)  and  Casco  (settled  1632)  incorporated  as 

towns. 

Isles  of  Shoals  and  all  territory  north  of  the  Piscataqua  to  the  Penob- 

scot  (belonging  to  Massachusetts)  made  County  of  Yorkshire. 
1660  Re-establishment  of  monarchy  in  England  under  Charles  II  results 

in  tightening  of  Colonial  government. 

1662  First  Quaker  meeting  in  Maine  held  at  Newichawannock. 

1663  Strong  feeling  manifested  between  people  of  Maine  and  those  of 
Massachusetts;  Robert  Ford  of  York  County  is  fined  by  Massachusetts 
General  Court  for  saying,  'John  Cotton  [of  Boston]  is  a  liar  and  has 
gone  to  hell.' 

1664  Ferdinando  Gorges,  grandson  of  original  proprietor,  obtains  royal 
order  restoring  his  Province  of  Maine;  Massachusetts  judges  expelled 
from  province. 

Charles  II,  planning  an  American  empire,  grants  royal  province  to  his 
brother,  Duke  of  York,  including  region  between  the  St.  Croix  and 
Pemaquid,  to  be  called  County  of  Cornwall. 
Royal  commissioners  set  up  independent  government  in  Maine. 
1667-70  Treaty  of  Breda  and  supplementary  articles  give  France  disputed  area 
east  of  the  Penobscot,  with  Nova  Scotia. 

Baron  de  St.  Castin,  French  fur  trader,  comes  to  New  England. 
1668  Four  commissioners  from  Massachusetts  convene  at  York,  command- 
ing people  of  Province  of  Maine  to  yield  obedience  to  Massachusetts 
Colony.  Royal  agents  forcibly  ejected  from  Maine. 

1672  Massachusetts  formally  extends  its  jurisdiction  to  Penobscot  Bay. 

1673  Dutch  seize  French  fortifications  at  Pentagoet. 

1674  Region  between  Kennebec  and  Penobscot  Rivers  organized  as  County 
of  Devonshire. 

New  royal  patent  issued  to  Duke  of  York;  Sir  Edmund  Andros  be- 
comes Governor  of  New  York  and  Sagadahoc  (County  of  Cornwall). 

1675  King  Philip's  War  begins  in  Maine;  emboldened  by  conflict  in  Massa- 
chusetts, Maine  Indians  attack  English  settlements;  Scarborough  and 
Casco  completely  destroyed. 

1676  Charles  II  decrees  that  Massachusetts  does  not  have  'right  of  soil'  in 
Maine  and  New  Hampshire. 

Dutch  again  capture  fort  at  Pentagoet,  but  English  drive  them  out. 
Indian  warfare  continues;  many  settlements  attacked  and  burned. 

1677  Province  of  Maine  purchased  from  Gorges'  heirs  by  Massachusetts 
for  £1250  sterling  (about  $6000). 


Chronology  447 


Indian  hostilities  continue.  Governor  Andros,  fearing  French  aggres- 
sion in  Duke  of  York's  Sagadahoc  Province,  dispatches  a  force  from 
New  York  to  Pemaquid. 

1678  Commissioners  from  Massachusetts  negotiate  peace  with  Indians  at 
Casco. 

1680  Provincial  government  established  by  Massachusetts;  Thomas  Dan- 
forth  appointed  'President  of  Maine.' 

1685  James  II  replaces  Charles  II  on  English  throne;  Massachusetts  Charter 
annulled. 

1686  Sir  Edmund  Andros  appointed  Royal  Governor  of  New  England 
Colonies,  and  immediately  starts  aggression  on  Maine  frontier. 

1688  Baron  de  Castin,  enraged  by  English  attacks,  organizes  Maine  In- 
dians; many  settlements  along  the  coast  destroyed.    James  II  de- 
throned and  replaced  by  William  of  Orange. 

Andros  attacks  Penobscot  and  sacks  stronghold  of  Baron  de  Castin, 
thus  precipitating  King  William's  War. 

1689  People  of  Massachusetts  imprison  Governor  Andros,  and  Danforth  is 
restored  as  provincial  president  of  Maine. 

1690  French  and  Indians  from  Canada  sweep  Maine  until  only  four  settle- 
ments remain  inhabited. 

Sir  William  Phips  takes  Port  Royal  in  Nova  Scotia. 

French  capture  Fort  William  Henry  at  Pemaquid,  vantage  point  of 

eastern  coast. 

1691  Massachusetts  obtains  its  second  charter;  Province  of  Maine  now 
becomes  District  of  Maine,  including  Colony  of  Sagadahoc  between 
the  Kennebec  and  the  St.  Croix. 

Sir  William  Phips  appointed  Royal  Governor  of  Massachusetts  Bay 

Colony,  helped  by  Cotton  Mather  and  his  faction. 
1697  Treaty  of  Ryswick  establishes  peace  between  France  and  England; 

Acadian  boundary  remains  undetermined,  France  claiming  all  land  to 

the  Penobscot. 
1699  Mere  Point  (Brunswick)  Treaty  with  Indians  marks  end  of  King 

William's  War. 
1703-13  Queen  Anne's  War  (third  Indian  war).  Only  remaining  settlements  in 

Maine  are  Kittery,  Wells,  and  York. 
1722  Lovewell's  War  (fourth  Indian  war)  begins  with  sudden  raids  on 

towns  of  southwestern  Maine. 

1724  English  sack  Norridgewock  Indian  village  at  Old  Point,  killing  Father 
Sebastian  Rasle,  missionary-teacher. 

1725  Colonial  soldiers  from  Massachusetts  defeat  Pequawket  Indians  at 
battle  of  Lovewell's  Pond,  Fryeburg. 

1726  Dummer's  Treaty  at  Falmouth  with  40  Maine  chiefs  brings  better 
feeling  and  establishment  of  government  truck  houses  for  Indian 
trading. 

1732-33  Massachusetts  offers  Maine  land  to  settlers  free  to  increase  immigra- 
tion into  Maine.    Resettlement  definitely  under  way. 
1739  Boundary  with  New  Hampshire  fixed  by  King  George  II  and  Council. 
1743  Population  about  12,000. 


448  Chronology 


1744-48  King  George's  War   (fifth  Indian  war)   begins,   causing   temporary 
exodus  of  many  settlers  to  other  Colonies. 

1745  Louisburg  captured  by  English  soldiers  and  Colonial  forces  commanded 
by  William  Pepperrell  of  Kittery. 

1754  Sixth  Indian  war;  Indians  of  Maine  now  struggling  against  complete 
extermination. 

1755  Acadians  dispersed  throughout  American  Colonies;  many  later  settle 
along  St.  John  River  in  Maine. 

1759  Quebec  falls  to  the  English.  Massachusetts  takes  complete  possession 
of  Penobscot  region. 

1760  Peace  made  with  remnants  of  Maine  Indians  at  Fort  Pownal. 
Cumberland  and  Lincoln  Counties  established. 

Definite  efforts  made  by  land  proprietors  to  attract  settlers  from  other 
Colonies,  British  Isles,  and  Germany. 

1763  Peace  of  Paris;  New  France  ceded  to  Great  Britain. 

1764  Census  is  taken;  population  about  24,000. 

1774  Show  of  resistance  to  Parliamentary  taxation  in  Maine  towns,  notably 
Saco,  Falmouth,  and  Machias. 

1775  Benedict  Arnold  leads  expedition  from  Augusta  to  Quebec  by  bateau 
and  on  foot. 

Falmouth  burned  by  British  under  Captain  Henry  Mowatt. 

British  vessel  'Margaretta'  captured  by  Colonials  at  Machias  —  first 

naval  engagement  of  Revolution. 

Maine's  first  post  office  established  at  Falmouth. 

1776  Declaration  of  Independence;  General  William  Whipple  of  Kittery 
a  signer  for  New  Hampshire. 

1777  Ship  'Ranger'  launched  at  Kittery  under  command  of  John  Paul 
Jones. 

1778  John  Paul  Jones  sets  sail  for  England  in  'Ranger,'  beginning  his  great 
naval  career. 

Continental  Congress  divides  Massachusetts  into  three  electoral 
districts,  of  which  northernmost,  including  York,  Cumberland,  and 
Lincoln  Counties,  is  called  District  of  Maine. 

1779  British  take  Castine  and  build  Fort  George  there;  revolutionists  fail 
to  take  fort.    Other  coast  towns  of  eastern  Maine  occupied  or  can- 
nonaded by  British  forces. 

1780  Constitution  of  Massachusetts  adopted,  giving  Maine  eight  senatorial 
representatives. 

1781  Cornwallis  surrenders  at  Yorktown;  end  of  hostilities. 

1783  Treaty  of  Versailles;  England  recognizes  independence  of  United 
States.  St.  Croix  River  set  as  eastern  boundary  of  country. 

1784  Canadian  Province  of  New  Brunswick  established,  and  long  boundary 
dispute  in  the  Aroostook  begun. 

1785  Question  of  separation  from  Massachusetts  arises,  causing  establish- 
ment of  Falmouth  Gazette,  first  newspaper  in  Maine,  as  organ  to  aid 
in  agitation  for  separation. 

1786  Portland  (formerly  Falmouth,  once  Casco)  incorporated  as  town. 


Chronology  449 


1787  On  adoption  of  United  States  Constitution,  Maine  is  made  a  repre- 
sentative district,  having  93  towns  and  plantations. 

1788  Slavery  abolished  in  Maine  and  Massachusetts. 

1789  Hancock  and  Washington  Counties  established. 

1790  Population  96,540. 

1791  Portland  Head  Light,  today  the  oldest  lighthouse  on  Atlantic  coast, 
established  at  Cape  Elizabeth;  Joseph  Greenleaf,  first  keeper,  ap- 
pointed by  George  Washington. 

1793  French  Revolution;  much  political  partisanship  in  America.    The 
Clough  House  at  Edgecomb  (near  Wiscasset)  prepared  as  a  refuge  for 
Marie  Antoinette. 

Federalist  and  Democrat-Republican  Parties  formed  in  United  States. 

1794  Bowdoin  College  receives  its  charter  from  Massachusetts  General 
Court;  officially  opens  in  1802. 

1795  General  Henry  Knox  takes  up  residence  at '  Montpelier,'  his  mansion 
in  Thomaston. 

1799  Kennebec  County  established. 

The  Portland  Bank,  first  bank  in  Maine,  opened. 

1800  Population  151,719. 

1801  Maine's  first  free  public  library  founded  at  Castine. 

1805  Oxford  County  established. 

1806  Portsmouth  Navy  Yard  built  at  Kittery. 

1807  Embargo  Act  on  foreign  commerce  passed  by  National  Government; 
causes  severe  economic  depression  in  New  England.  Much  smuggling 
in  Maine,  centering  around  Eastport. 

Henry  Wadsworth  Longfellow  born  at  Portland,  February  27. 
District  votes  9404  to  3370  against  separation  from  Massachusetts. 
Farmington  Academy,  later  first  State  Normal  School,  incorporated. 

1809  Embargo  Act  repealed. 
Somerset  County  established. 

Hannibal  Hamlin,  Vice-President  of  U.S.  1861-65,  born  at  Paris 
(Maine),  August  27. 

First  cotton  mill  in  Maine  established  in  Brunswick  at  falls  of  the 
Androscoggin. 

1810  Population  228,705. 

Great  internal  development  in  Maine  resulting  from  Embargo  Act. 
England  increases  impressment  of  American  sailors. 

1812  War  between  United  States  and  Great  Britain  seriously  affects  shipping 
on  Maine  coast.    Smuggling  between  Canada  and  Maine  practiced 
on  large  scale. 

1813  American  brig ' Enterprise '  captures  British  brig  'Boxer'  off  Pemaquid 
Point. 

Maine  Literary  and  Theological  Institute,  now  Colby  College,  es- 
tablished. 
Corporal  punishment  totally  abolished  in  Massachusetts  and  Maine. 

1814  British  seize  and  occupy  Maine  coast  from  the  St.  Croix  to  the  Penob- 
scot;  Eastport  on  Moose  Island  declared  to  be  part  of  New  Brunswick. 


45°  Chronology 


Treaty  of  Ghent  brings  peace  between  United  States  and  Great 
Britain. 

1815  Foreign  occupation  of  Maine  soil  ended. 

Beginning  of  western  migration,  known  as  'Ohio  Fever,'  which  con- 
tinued until  about  1870,  causing  alarming  decrease  in  Maine's  popula- 
tion. 

1816  Penobscot  County  established. 

Year  of  the  great  cold,  known  as  'eighteen-hundred-and  froze-to- 
death.' 

1818  Waterville  (Colby)  College  opened;  obtained  charter  in  1820. 

1819  Convention  for  framing  State  constitution  meets  at  Portland,  October 
ii. 

1820  Maine  admitted  as  a  State  to  the  Union;  capital  at  Portland;  William 
King  elected  first  governor. 

Population  298,335. 

1825  Lafayette  given  enthusiastic  reception  on  visit  to  Maine. 
1827  Augusta  chosen  as  site  for  State  capital. 

Waldo  County  established. 

1830  Population  399,455. 

Cumberland  and  Oxford  Canal  opened. 

James  G.  Blaine,  famous  Maine  statesman,  born  in  Pennsylvania, 

January  31. 

1831  Maine  refuses  compromise  boundary  solution  offered  by  King  of 
Netherlands. 

1832  State  capital  removed  from  Portland  to  Augusta. 

1834  Charles  Farrar  Browne  ('Artemus  Ward'),  noted  humorist,  born  at 

Waterford,  April  26. 

State  Anti-Slavery  Society  formed. 

State  Prohibition  Convention  held  at  Portland. 
1836  Bangor,  Old  Town,  and  Milford  Railroad  completed,  first  hi  State  and 

one  of  earliest  in  country. 

1838  Franklin  and  Piscataquis  Counties  established. 

Earthquake  felt  throughout  New  England,  vibrations  lasting  for  20 
days  after;  chimneys  and  lighthouses  thrown  down. 
'Aroostock  War'  begins.   Serious  hostilities  between  Maine  and  New 
Brunswick  citizens  avoided  by  mediation  of  General  Winfield  Scott. 

1839  'Aroostock  War'  ends,  and  Aroostock  County  established. 
Thomas  Brackett  Reed,  noted  statesman,  born  in  Portland,  October 
18. 

1840  Population  501,793. 

Hiram  Maxim,  inventor  of  modern  machine  gun,  born  at  Sangerville, 

February  5. 

1842  Webster- Ashburton  Treaty  fixes  northeastern  boundary  at  last. 
1846  Four-mile  ice  jam  on  the  Penobscot  floods  Bangor  and  terrifies  its 

inhabitants. 

Sale  of  spirits  forbidden  in  Maine  except  for  medical  or  mechanical 

purposes. 


Chronology  45 1 


1847  Maine's  first  child  labor  law  enacted. 

1849  Bangor  afflicted  by  cholera,  causing   151   deaths;  Mayor  William 
Abbott  dies  in  office. 

Sarah  Orne  Jewett,  author  of  'The  Country  of  the  Pointed  Firs/  born 
at  South  Berwick,  September  3. 

Maine  adventurers  sail  in  Maine  ships  around  the  Horn  to  California 
gold  fields. 

1850  Population  583,169. 

Edgar  Wilson  (Bill)  Nye,  humorist,  born  at  Shirley,  August  25. 

1851  Prohibition  enactment,  known  as  'the  Maine  law/  framed  by  Neal 
Dow,  prohibits  manufacture  and  sale  of  intoxicating  liquors  in  any 
part  of  State. 

1854  Androscoggin  and  Sagadahoc  Counties  established. 

Anti-slavery  Whigs  and  Free-Soilers  unite  throughout  country  to 
form  the  Republican  Party,  which  at  once  becomes  very  strong  in 
Maine. 

1856  Maine  State  Seminary,  now  Bates  College,  incorporated. 

1857  Lillian  Norton  (Madame  Giglia  Nordica),  noted  prima  donna,  born 
at  Farmington,  December  12. 

1860  Population  628,279. 

Knox  County  established. 
1861-65  Civil  War,  to  which  Maine  contributed  72,945  men  and  $18,000,000. 

1862  Maine  State  College  of  Agriculture  and  Industrial  Arts  (now  Univer- 
sity of  Maine)  established. 

1863  Confederates  seize  the  'Caleb  Gushing'  from  Portland  Harbor  and 
put  to  sea,  pursued  by  other  Portland  vessels;  having  no  ammunition, 
they  burn  the  boat  and  are  taken  prisoners. 

1864  Bates  College  receives  charter. 

1865  Civil  War  ends. 

1866  Great  Portland  fire  of  July  4  and  5  destroys  1800  buildings,  with  loss 
of  over  $6,000,000;  aid  rushed  from  all  parts  of  country. 

1869  Edwin  Arlington  Robinson,  poet,  born  at  Head  Tide  in  Alna,  Decem- 
ber 22. 

1870  Population  626,915. 

State  colonization  venture  brings  about  establishment  of  New  Sweden, 
with  importation  of  Swedish  colonists. 
Maine's  popularity  as  summer  resort  region  begins  to  be  felt 
Railroad  transportation  by  this  time  well  established. 
1873  State  legislature  passes  law  providing  State  aid  for  free  high  schools. 

1875  Compulsory  education  bill  passed  by  legislature. 

1876  Death  penalty  abolished  in  Maine. 

1879  Freak  snowstorm  in  Portland,  July  4. 

1880  Population  648,936. 

Economic  decline  in  rural  areas  begins  to  be  marked. 
1890  Population  661,086. 

1892  New  constitutional  amendment  requires  education  qualifications  for 
voting. 


452  Chronology 


1893  Severe  economic  depression,  continuing  to  1895,  widely  felt  in  Maine. 

1898  Battleship  'Maine'  blown  up  in  Havana  harbor;  followed  by  Spanish- 
American  War,  to  which  Maine  furnishes  one  volunteer  regiment  of 
1717  men. 

1000  Population  694,466. 

1907  Widespread  economic  depression. 

Largest  dam  of  its  tune  in  New  England  built  at  Ellsworth. 

1910  Population  742,371. 

Resettlement   of   northeastern   boundary   controversy   with    Great 

Britain. 

Democratic  State  victory  for  first  time  in  32  years;  Frederick  W. 

Plaisted  of  Augusta,  elected  Governor. 

1911  Bangor  fire  causes  more  than  $3,000,000  damage. 

Direct  primary  adopted;  initiative  and  referendum  law  passed. 

1914  Outbreak  of  World  War.    '  Kronprinzessin  Cecilie,'  North  German 
Lloyd  liner  with  cargo  of  gold,  interned  at  Bar  Harbor. 

Maine  Public  Utilities  Commission  created. 

1915  Workmen's  compensation  law  adopted. 

1917  United  States  enters  World  Wrar;  Maine  legislature  passes  emergency 
act  providing  for  $1,000,000  in  State  bonds  for  war  purposes. 
Ripogenus  Dam  completed,  great  engineering  feat  in  wilderness. 

1918  End  of  World  War,  to  which  Maine  contributed  more  than  35,000 
men  and  more  than  $116,000,000. 

1919  Lafayette  National  Park  (renamed  Acadia  National  Park  in  1928) 
created  by  act  of  Congress. 

1920  Centennial  year.  Maine  receives  new  impetus  toward  forest  conserva- 
tion, permanent  roads,  and  publicity  for  its  vocational  facilities. 
Celebration  in  Portland. 

Population  768,014. 

1921  Consolidation  of  leading  Maine  newspapers. 

1923  City  Manager-Council  form  of  government  established  in  Portland, 
resulting  in  adoption  of  plan  by  many  other  towns  and  cities  of  State. 

1924  Winter  port  of  English  steamers  changed  from  Portland  to  Halifax, 
N.S.,  because  of  tax  on  imported  goods. 

1929  Stock  market  collapse  marks  beginning  of  depression  years;  effects 
not  felt  immediately  in  Maine. 

Popular  vote  on  power  question  prohibits  exportation  of  hydro- 
electric power  from  State. 

1930  Population  797,423. 

Wyman  Dam  at  Bingham  completed. 

1931  State  Administrative  Code  consolidates  departments  and  agencies 
of  Maine's  government  under  five  commissions. 

Mt.  Katahdin  State  Park  given  to  State  by  ex-Governor  Percival  P. 
Baxter  of  Portland. 

1932  Waldo-Hancock  toll  bridge  dedicated. 
Portland  and  Boston  steamer  service  discontinued. 
Pari-mutuel  betting  on  horse  racing  legalized. 


Chronology  453 


1933  Nation-wide  bank  failures  cause  general  suffering  in  Maine's  rural 
areas.    Ninety-eight  of  Maine's  109  banks  eventually  reopen  after 
moratorium. 

Ellsworth  fire  causes  $1,250,000  damage. 
Maine  ratifies  repeal  of  i8th  amendment. 

1934  State  prohibition  amendment  repealed. 

1935  Construction  begun  on  Passamaquoddy  Tidal  Power  Project. 
Eastern  Steamship  Lines,  Inc.,  discontinue  service  between  Boston 
and  Bangor  and  Penobscot  River  ports. 

1936  Maine  suffers  most  disastrous  floods  in  its  history;  $25,000,000  loss. 
Eastern  Steamship  Lines,  Inc.,  discontinue  service  between  Portland 
and  Bar  Harbor  and  New  York. 

Construction  on  Passamaquoddy  Tidal  Power  Project  abandoned. 


SELECTED    READING    LIST 


THE  following  titles  are  chiefly  those  of  relatively  recent  publications  intended 
in  most  cases  for  the  general  reader  rather  than  the  specialist.  For  further 
references,  the  latter  should  consult  Joseph  Williamson's  Bibliography  of  the  State 
of  Maine,  from  the  Earliest  Period  to  1891  (2  volumes,  Portland,  1896),  together 
with  the  briefer  and  in  many  cases  more  up-to-date  bibliographies  contained  in 
various  specialized  publications  about  the  State  of  Maine. 

GENERAL  DESCRIPTION 
Coe,  Harrie  B.,  editor.  Maine:  Resources,  Attractions,  and  Its  People.    In  5 

volumes,  illustrated.  New  York,  1928-31. 
Coffin,  Robert  P.  Tristram.  Kennebec:  Cradle  of  Americans.  Illustrated.  New 

York,  1937.   (In  'The  Rivers  of  America'  series.) 
Dole,  Nathan  Haskell,  and  Gordon,  Irwin  L.    Maine  of  the  Sea  and  Pines. 

Illustrated.  Boston,  1928. 

Drake,  Samuel  Adams.  The  Pine-Tree  Coast.  Illustrated.  Boston,  1891. 
Dunnack,  Henry  E.   The  Maine  Book.  Illustrated.  Augusta,  1920. 
Hueston,  Ethel.  Coasting  down  East.  Illustrated.  New  York,  1924.  (Describes 

a  motor  trip  through  Maine.) 

Nutting,  Wallace.  Maine  Beautiful.  Illustrated.  Framingham,  Mass.,  1924. 
Stanton,  Gerrit  S.  Where  the  Sportsman  Loves  to  Linger.  Illustrated.  New  York, 

1005.   (A  narrative  of  the  most  popular  canoe  trips  in  Maine.) 
Thoreau,  Henry  D.  The  Maine  Woods.  Boston,  1864,  and  many  later  editions. 
Thoreau,  Henry  D.   Canoeing  in  the  Wilderness.   Edited  and  illustrated  from 

photographs  by  Clifton  Johnson.  Boston,  1916.  (The  latter  half  of  Thoreau's 

classic  account  of  'The  Maine  Woods.') 
Verrill,  A.  Hyatt.  Romantic  and  Historic  Maine.  Illustrated.  New  York,  1933. 

HISTORY 

Burrage,  Henry  S.  Beginnings  of  Colonial  Maine.  Illustrated.  Portland,  1914. 
Burrage,  Henry  S.   Gorges  and  the  Grant  of  the  Province  of  Maine,  1622.   Illus- 
trated. Augusta,  1923. 

Burrage,  Henry  S.  Maine  at  Louisburg  in  1745.  Illustrated.  Augusta,  1910. 
Burrage,  Henry  S.  Maine  in  the  Northeastern  Boundary  Controversy.  Illustrated. 

Portland,  1919. 

Dunnack,  Henry  E.  Maine  Forts.  Illustrated.  Augusta,  1924. 
Elkins,  L.  Whitney.   The  Story  of  Maine:  Coastal  Maine.  Illustrated.  Bangor, 

1924. 

Hale,  Robert.  Early  Days  of  Church  and  State  in  Maine.  Brunswick,  1910. 
Hatch,  Louis  Clinton,  editor.    Maine:  A  History.    Centennial  edition.    In  5 

volumes,  illustrated.  New  York,  1919. 
Holmes,  Herbert  E.    The  Makers  of  Maine:  Essays  and  Tales  of  Early  Maine 

History.  Illustrated.  Lewiston,  1912. 
Maine  Federation  of  Women's  Clubs.    Maine  in  History  and  Romance.    By 

members  of  the  Federation.  Illustrated.  Lewiston,  1915. 
Maine  Historical  Society.    Documentary  History  of  the  State  of  Maine.    In  24 

volumes,  illustrated.  Portland,  1869-1916. 


Selected  Reading  List  455 


Spencer,  Wilbur  D.  Pioneers  on  Maine  Rivers.  Illustrated.   Portland,  1930. 
Sprague,  John  F.   Sebastian  Rasle:  A  Maine  Tragedy  of  the  Eighteenth  Century. 

Illustrated.  Boston,  1906. 
Starkey,  Glenn  W.    Maine:  Its  History,  Resources,  and  Government.    Revised 

edition.  Illustrated.   Boston,  1930. 
Sylvester,  Herbert  M.    Maine  Coast  Romance.    In  5  volumes.    Illustrated. 

Boston,  1904-09.   (Deals  with  Maine  pioneer  settlements,  1605-90.) 
(See  also  Proceedings  and  Collections  of  the  Maine  Historical  Society,  Portland.) 

BIOGRAPHY 
Gay,  Maude  Clark.  Five  Women:  Little  Romances  of  Early  Maine.  Illustrated. 

Wiscasset,  1930. 
Little,  George  T.,  compiler.    Genealogical  and  Family  History  of  the  State  of 

Maine.  Illustrated.  New  York,  1909. 
Moulton,  Augustus  F.,  compiler.  Memorials  of  Maine:  A  Life  Record  of  Men  and 

Women  of  the  Past.  Illustrated.  New  York,  1916. 

Scales,  John,  editor.  Piscataqua  Pioneers,  1623-1775.  Dover,  N.H.,  1919. 
Spencer,  Wilbur  D.  Maine  Immortals.  Augusta,  1932. 

GOVERNMENT  AND  LEGISLATION 

Dunnack,  Henry  E.  Manual  of  Maine  Government.  Illustrated.  Augusta,  1921. 

Gordon,  Ernest.   The  Maine  [Liquor]  Law.  New  York,  1919. 

Hormell,  Orren  C.  Maine  Towns.  Illustrated.  Brunswick,  1932. 

Hormell,  Orren  C.  Sources  of  Municipal  Revenue  in  Maine.  Illustrated.  Bruns- 
wick, 1918. 

MacDonald,  William.  The  Government  of  Maine:  Its  History  and  Administration. 
New  York,  1902. 

Maine  Register,  State  Year-Book,  and  Legislative  Manual.  (Published  annually 
since  1870.)  Portland,  1937. 

Whitin,  Ernest  S.  Factory  Legislation  in  Maine.  New  York,  1908. 

ARCHAEOLOGY  AND  THE  INDIANS 

Eckstorm,  Fannie  Hardy.  Handicrafts  of  the  Modern  Indians  of  Maine.  Illus- 
trated. Bar  Harbor,  1932. 

Moorehead,  Warren  K.  A  Report  on  the  Archaeology  of  Maine.  Illustrated. 
Andover,  Mass.,  1922. 

Moorehead,  Warren  K.  Ten  Years  of  Archaeological  Research  in  the  State  of 
Maine.  Andover,  Mass. 

Smith,  W.  B.  Indian  Remains  of  the  Penobscot  Valley  and  their  Significance. 
Orono,  1926. 

Smith,  W.  B.   The  Lost  Red  Paint  People  of  Maine.  Bangor,  1930. 

Starbird,  Charles  M.   The  Indians  of  the  Androscoggin  Valley.  Lewiston,  1928. 

Willoughby,  Charles  C.  Prehistoric  Burial  Places  in  Maine.  Illustrated.  Cam- 
bridge, Mass.,  1898. 

GEOLOGY 
Bastin,  Edson  S.    Geology  of  the  Pegmatites  and  Associated  Rocks  of  Maine. 

Illustrated.  Washington,  1911. 
Bastin,  Edson  S.,  and  Davis,  Charles  A.  Peat  Deposits  of  Maine.  Illustrated. 

Washington,  1909. 
Dale,  Thomas  N.   The  Granites  of  Maine.  Illustrated.  Washington,  1907. 


456  Selected  Reading  List 

Tebbetts,  Leon  H.   The  Amazing  Story  of  Maine.  Illustrated.  Portland,  1935. 

(Relates  to  the  State's  geological  history.) 

Toppan,  Frederick  W.  Geology  of  Maine.  With  map.  Schenectady,  N.Y.,  1932. 
Williams,  Henry  S.,  and  Breger,  Carpel  L.  The  Fauna  of  the  Chapman  Sandstone 

of  Maine.  Illustrated.  Washington,  1916. 

FLORA  AND  FAUNA 

Fernald,  Charles  H.   The  Grasses  of  Maine.  Illustrated.  Augusta,  1885. 
Fernald,  Merritt  L.   The  Portland  Catalogue  of  Maine  Plants.   Second  edition. 

Portland,  1892. 

Knight,  Ora  W.   The  Birds  of  Maine.  Illustrated.  Bangor,  1908. 
Miller,  Olive  Thorne.  With  the  Birds  in  Maine.  Boston,  1904. 
Rand,  Edward  L.,  and  Redfield,  John  H.  Flora  of  Mount  Desert  Island,  Maine. 

Cambridge,  Mass.,  1894. 

Ricker,  Percy  LeRoy.  A  Preliminary  List  of  Maine  Fungi.  Orono,  1902. 
Scribner,  F.  Lamson.   The  Ornamental  and  Useful  Plants  of  Maine.  Illustrated. 

Augusta,  1875. 
Tower,  Gordon  E.  Forest  Trees  of  Maine  and  How  to  Know  Them.  Illustrated. 

Augusta,  1908. 

Wilkins,  Austin  H.  Forests  of  Maine.  Illustrated.  Augusta,  1932. 
(See  also  Proceedings  of  the  Portland  Society  of  Natural  History.) 

COMMERCE  AND  INDUSTRY 
Chadbourne,  Walter  W.  A  History  of  Banking  in  Maine,  1799-1930.  Orono, 

1936. 
Chase,  Edward  E.  Maine  Railroads:  A  History  of  the  Development  of  the  Railroad 

System.  Illustrated.  Portland,  1926. 
Wood,  Richard  G.    History  of  Lumbering  in  Maine,  1820-1861.    Illustrated. 

Orono,  1935. 
(See  also  annual  reports  and  miscellaneous  publications  of  the  State  Department 

of  Agriculture,  Department  of  Labor  and  Industry,  and  Department  of  Sea 

and  Shore  Fisheries.) 

WATER  POWER  AND  RESOURCES 
Barrows,  Harold  K.    Water  Resources  of  the  Kennebec  River  Basin,  Maine. 

Illustrated.  Washington,  1907. 
Barrows,  Harold  K.,  and  Babb,  Cyrus  C.  Water  Resources  of  the  Penobscot  River 

Basin,  Maine.  Illustrated.  Washington,  1912. 
Clapp,  Frederick  G.    Underground  Waters  of  Southern  Maine.    Illustrated. 

Washington,  1909. 
Pressey,  Henry  A.  Water  Power s  of  the  State  of  Maine.  Illustrated.  Washington, 

1902. 

SHIPS  AND  THE  SEA 
Lubbock,  Alfred  Basil.  The  Down  Rasters:  American  Deep-Water  Sailing  Ships, 

1869-1929.  Illustrated.  Boston,  1929. 
Rowe,  William  H.   Shipbuilding  Days  in  Casco  Bay,  1727-1890.   Illustrated. 

Yarmouth,  1929. 
Sterling,  Robert  T.    Lighthouses  of  the  Maine  Coast,  and  the  Men  Who  Keep 

Them.  Illustrated.  Brattleboro,  Vt,  1935. 
Wasson,  George  S.  Sailing  Days  on  the  Penobscot:  The  River  and  Bay  as  They 

Were  in  the  Old  Days.    With  a  record  of  vessels  built  there,  compiled  by 

Lincoln  Colcord.  Illustrated.  Salem,  Mass.,  1932. 


Selected  Reading  List  457 


RACIAL  GROUPS 

Collins,  Charles  W.  The  Acadians  of  Madawaska,  Maine.  Boston,  1902.  (Pub- 
lications of  the  New  England  Catholic  Historical  Society.) 

Lawton,  R.  J.,  compiler.  Franco-Americans  of  the  State  of  Maine.  Illustrated. 
Lewiston,  1915. 

New  Sweden,  Maine.  The  Story  of  New  Sweden.  Illustrated.  Portland,  1896. 

BALLADS  AND  FOLK-SONGS 
Barry,  Phillips;  Eckstorm,  Fannie  Hardy;  and  Smyth,  Mary  W.,  editors. 

British  Ballads  from  Maine.  Frontispiece.  New  Haven,  Conn.,  1929. 
Day,  Holman  F.    Pine  Tree  Ballads:  Rhymed  Stories  of  Unplaned  Human 

Natur'  up  in  Maine.  Illustrated.  Boston,  1902. 
Eckstorm,  Fannie  Hardy,  editor.  Minstrelsy  of  Maine:  Folk-Songs  and  Ballads 

of  the  Woods  and  the  Coast.  Boston,  1927. 
Gray,  Roland  P.,  editor.    Songs  and  Ballads  of  the  Maine  Lumberjacks,  with 

Other  Songs  from  Maine.  Map.  Cambridge,  Mass.,  1924. 

EDUCATION 

Chadbourne,  Ava  H.  Beginnings  of  Education  in  Maine.  New  York,  1928. 

Chadbourne,  Ava  H.,  compiler.  Readings  in  the  History  of  Education  in  Maine. 
Bangor,  1932. 

Hall,  Edward  W.  History  of  Higher  Education  in  Maine.  Illustrated.  Washing- 
ton, 1903. 

Stetson,  William  W.  Study  of  the  History  of  Education  in  Maine  and  the  Evolution 
of  Our  Present  School  System.  Augusta,  1901. 

Survey  of  Higher  Education  in  Maine.  By  the  University  of  Maine,  in  co-opera- 
tion with  Bates,  Bowdoin,  and  Colby  Colleges.  Maps.  Orono,  1931. 

(See  also  annual  reports  and  miscellaneous  publications  of  the  State  Department 
of  Education.) 

RELIGION 
Allen,  Stephen,  and  Pilsbury,  William  H.  History  of  Methodism  in  Maine,  1793- 

1886.  Illustrated.  Augusta,  1887. 
Clark,  Calvin  M.  History  of  the  Congregational  Churches  in  Maine.  In  2  volumes. 

Portland,  1926. 

Dow,  Edward  F.  A  Portrait  of  the  Millennial  Church  of  Shakers.  Orono,  1931. 
Randall,  Daniel  B.   A  Statistical  History  of  the  Maine  Conference  of  the  M.E. 

Church,  from  1793  to  1893.  Illustrated.  Portland,  1893. 

ARCHITECTURE 

Loomis,  Charles  D.  Port  Towns  of  Penobscot  Bay.  Illustrated.  St.  Paul,  1922. 
(In  the  'White  Pine  Series  of  Architectural  Monographs.') 

Nason,  Emma  Huntington.  Old  Colonial  Houses  in  Maine.  Illustrated. 
Augusta,  1908. 

Walker,  C.  Howard.  Some  Old  Houses  on  the  Southern  Coast  of  Maine.  Illus- 
trated. St.  Paul,  1918.  (In  the  'White  Pine  Series  of  Architectural  Mono- 
graphs.') 

Music 

Edwards,  George  T.  Music  and  Musicians  of  Maine.  Illustrated.  Portland, 
1928. 


458  Selected  Reading  List 


THE  PRESS 
Fassett,  Fredrick  G.,  Jr.   A  History  of  Newspapers  in  the  District  of  Maine, 

1785-1820.  Orono,  1932. 
Griffin,  Joseph.  History  of  the  Press  of  Maine.  Illustrated.  Brunswick,  1872. 

GUIDES  AND  RECREATIONAL  HANDBOOKS 
Appalachian  Mountain  Club.  The  A.M.C.  Guide  to  Paths  on  Katahdin  and  in  the 

Adjacent  Region.  Folding  map.  Boston,  1933. 

Bangor  and  Aroostook  Railway.  Atop  Katahdin.  Illustrated.  Bangor,  1922. 
Bangor  and  Aroostook  Railway.  In  the  Maine  Woods:  The  Vacationist's  Guide- 
book. Illustrated.  Bangor,  1937. 
Clifford,  Fred  H.  Haunts  of  the  Hunted:  The  Vacationer's  Guide  to  Maine's  Great 

North  Country.  Illustrated.  Bangor,  1903. 
Clifford,  Fred  H.  In  Pine-Tree  Jungles:  A  Handbook  for  Sportsmen  and  Campers 

in  the  Great  Maine  Woods.  Illustrated.  Bangor,  1902. 
Emerson,  Walter  C.    When  North  Winds  Blow.    Illustrated.   Lewiston,  1922. 

(Descriptive  of  the  Maine  Lake  country.) 
Emerson,  Walter  C.   The  Latchstring  to  Maine  Woods  and  Waters.  Illustrated. 

Boston,  1916. 
Maine  Appalachian  Trail  Club.    Guide  to  the  Appalachian  Trail  in  Maine. 

Folding  maps.  Augusta,  1936. 
Maine  Automobile  Association.   Maine  Automobile  Road  Book  and  Pine  Tree 

Tour  of  Maine  and  the  White  Mountains.  Illustrated.  Portland. 
Maine  Development  Commission.   Maine,  the  Land  of  Remembered  Vacations. 

Illustrated.  Augusta,  1936. 

MISCELLANEOUS 

Barry,  William  E.  A  Stroll  Thro'  the  Past.  Illustrated.  Portland,  1933.  (Em- 
bodies much  early  Maine  history  and  lore,  especially  of  Kennebunk  Village 
and  adjacent  region.) 

Boardman,  Samuel  L.,  compiler.  Agricultural  Bibliography  of  Maine,  1850-1892. 
Illustrated.  Augusta,  1893. 

Brooks,  Annie  Peabody.  Ropes'  Ends:  Traditions,  Legends,  and  Sketches  of  Old 
Kennebunkport  and  Vicinity.  Illustrated.  Kennebunkport,  1901. 

Coffin,  Robert  P.  Tristram.  Lost  Paradise:  A  Boyhood  on  a  Maine  Coast  Farm. 
Illustrated.  New  York,  1934. 

Day,  Clarence  P.,  and  Meyer,  William  E.  The  Port  of  Portland  and  its  Hinter- 
land. Illustrated.  Portland,  1923. 

Hasse,  Adelaide  R.,  compiler.  Index  to  Economic  Material  in  Documents  of 
Maine,  1820-1904.  Washington,  1907. 

Maine  State  Planning  Board.  Report  of  1934-35.  Augusta,  1936. 

McCorrison,  A.  L.  Letters  from  Fraternity.  With  Introduction  by  Ben  Ames 
Williams.  New  York,  1931.  (Descriptive  of  life  on  a  Maine  farm.) 

Varney,  George  J.  Gazetteer  of  Maine.  Illustrated.  Boston,  1 88 1. 

(Of  those  novelists  and  poets  who  have  written  about  the  Maine  scene  and 
character,  the  more  prominent  are  mentioned  in  the  Literature  section  of  the 
article  on  'The  Arts,'  printed  elsewhere  in  this  volume.) 


INDEX 


Italic  figures  indicate  the  main  references  of  the  items  concerned 


Abbot,  318,  322 

Abbott  Company  Mill  (Dexter,)  322 

Abbott,  Jacob,  96 

Abbott,  John  S.  C.,  96,  140 

Abnaki  Indians,  24-27,  213,  220,  331,  358; 
crafts,  26;  dress  of,  25;  economic  status  of, 
25;  elections  of,  26;  miscellaneous  references, 
213,  331,  358;  nomadic  life  of,  27 

Abolitionists,  43,  168 

Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences  (Thomaston),  222 

Acadia,  130,  234,  239,  248,  281,  290 

Acadia  National  Park,  281-83,  284,  440 

Acadians,  37,  74~75,  241,  247 

Accommodations,  xxii 

Adams,  G.  J.,  Rev.,  83,  233 

Adams  Hall  (Brunswick),  146 

Adventist  Camp  Meeting  Grounds  (Princeton), 
241 

Adventists,  372 

Agamenticus  (see  York) 

Agassiz  Village,  359 

Agriculture  (see  Farming) 

Agriculture,  U.S.  Department  of,  113,  245 

Air  Lines,  xxi 

Airports:  Augusta,  129;  Bar  Harbor,  282; 
Brown ville,  319;  Caribou  Municipal,  246 

Akers,  Benjamin  Paul,  103,  183,  383 

Akers,  Elizabeth  (see  Allen,  Elizabeth  Akers) 

Albany,  370 

Albion,  354-55 

Alden,  John, 118 

Alder  Stream  Camp  Site  (Eustis),  347 

\ldrich  House  (Topsham),  326 

Alexander,  307 

Alfred,  82,  339-40 

Alfred  Courthouse  (Alfred),  339 

Allagash,  421 

Allagash  Falls,  420,  421 

Allagash  Region,  408 

Allagash  River  Canoe  Trip,  419-22 

Allefonsce,  Jean,  29 

Allen,  Elizabeth  Akers,  98;  birthplace  of 
(Farmington),  345 

Allen,  John,  278 

Allen,  William  Henry,  187 

Alna,  219 

American  Thread  Co.  (Milo),  316 

American  Woolen  Co.  (Dover-Foxcroft),  317 

Amherst,  305 

Anderson,  Lieutenant,  122 

Andover,  303,  440 

Andrew,  John  Albion,  birthplace  of  (South 
Windham),  342 

Andros,  Edmund,  Sir,  33,  34,  291 

Androscoggin  County  Courthouse  (Auburn), 
163 

Androscoggin  Falls  (Brunswick),  144;  (Rum- 
ford),  301 


Androscoggin  Mill  (Lewiston),  159 

Anemone  Cave  (Bar  Harbor),  284 

Anspn,  332 

Anti-liquor  law  riot,  171 

Anti-masonry,  43 

'Antiquities  of  the  New  England  Indians' 
(book),  22 

Apartment  House  (Bath),  216 

Appalachian  Trail  System,  310,  312,  366, 
428-29 

Appleton  Hall  (Brunswick),  147 

Arbo  Home,  434 

Archeological  Remains,  20 

Architecture:  architects,  92;  character  of,  86; 
Classic  Revival,  92-93 ;  early  structures,  86- 
87;  French  and  Indian  Wars,  effect  of,  87; 
manor  houses  and  mansions,  89-91 ;  modern 
period,  93;  public  buildings,  91;  stone  build- 
ings, 91;  typical  18th-century  house,  87-89 

Argall,  Samuel,  Capt.,  286 

Arnold,  Benedict,  329,  246-47,  350;  camp 
sites:  Eustis,  346;  Flagstaff,  347;  Skowhegan, 
299;  expedition,  119, 348, 424;  Trail  Markers, 

333 

Arnold  Pond,  348 

Arnold's  Landing  (Solon),  333 

Aroostook  County,  65 

Aroostook  Country  Club,  Ltd.,  246 

Aroostook  Farm  (Presque  Isle),  245 

'Aroostook  War,'  42,  121,  151,  240 

Arrowsic,  262-63 

Arrowsic  Town  House  (Arrowsic),  262 

Art:  collections,  104,  183;  Colonial,  102;  early, 
characteristics  of,  101;  modern,  103-04;  I9th 
century,  102-103;  woodcarving,  101 

Arts  (see  Literature,  Art,  Theater,  Music) 

'Arundel'  (book),  128 

Ashland,  309 

Askwith,  Unorganized  Township  of,  324 

Aspinquid,  26 

Asticou,  284 

Atlantic  and  St.  Lawrence  Railway,  180 

Aubry,  Nicolas,  82 

Augusta,  117-29;  development,  119-20;  early 
settlement,  118-19;  fur  trading,  118;  govern- 
ment of,  117-18,  120;  population,  117,  120; 
racial  groups,  117;  social  groups,  117 

Augusta  Country  Club  (Manchester),  357 

Augusta  Lumber  Co.  (Augusta),  122 

Augusta  State  Hospital  (Augusta),  436 

Aurora,  305 

Backus  Corner,  344-45 
Bacon,  Daniel,  Rev.,  44 
Badger,  Joseph,  102 
Bagnall,  Walter,  165 
Bailey,  Ezekiel,  357 
Bailey  Island,  212,  258,  391 


460 


Index 


Bailey  Island  Bridge,  258 

Bailey ville  (Town),  241 

Baileyville  (Winthrop),  357 

Bald  Head  Cliffs  (York),  205 

Baldwin,  367 

Bangor,    129-38,   440;    architecture,    132-33; 

early    history,    130-31;    industry,    131-32; 

land  speculation,  132;  shipping,  132;  War  of 

1812,  131 

'Bangor'  (ship),  72,  132 
Bangor  House  (Bangor),  137 
Bangor  Salmon  Pool  (Bangor),  138 
Bangor  Theological  Seminary  (Bangor),  81, 136 
Bangs,  John  Kendrick,  99 
Bapst,  John,  Rev.,  44 
Baptists,  42 

Bar  Harbor,  282-84,  440 
Bar  Mills,  340-41 
Baring,  241 
Barn  Raising,  293 
Barney's  Point  (Jonesport\  233 
Barrel,  Sally  Sayward,  94-95 
Barrett,  Timothy,  372 
Barrow,  Lewis  C.,  Gov.,  321 
Bartlett  House  (Castine),  291 
Barton,  Clara,  373 
Baskahegan  Lake,  242 
Bates,  Arlo,  98 
Bates  College  (Lewiston),  history,  81,  157-58; 

buildings,  159-62 
Bates    Manufacturing    Company    Buildings 

(Lewiston),  158 
Bath,  215-16 

Bath  Iron  Works  (Bath),  216 
Bauneg  Beg  Country  Club  (North  Berwick), 

338 

Baxter  Boulevard  (Portland),  188 
Beaches:  Bristol,  Pemaquid,  268;  Harpswell, 

Cundy's  Harbor,  258;  Jefferson,  Baptismal, 

374,  Crescent,  374;  Kennebunk,  Kennebunk, 

253;  Old  Orchard,  Old  Orchard,  256;  Wells, 

Wells,  206;  York,  Long,  253 
Beal,  Barney,  233 
Beal,  Harriet  Elaine,  126 
Beal,  Manwaring,  233 

Beal,  Peggy,  gravestone  of  (Jonesport),  233-34 
Beals  Island,  233 
Bean  House  (Westbrook),  383 
Bear  Clan,  26 
Bear  hunting,  415,  417 
Beauchamp,  John,  31 
Beaver  colonies  and  dams,  305-06,  309 
Beddington,  306 
Belfast,  225-26 

Belfast  Memorial  Bridge  (Belfast),  227 
Belgrade,  351 
'Belgrade'  (ship),  231 
Belgrade  Lakes,  351 
Belgrade  Lakes  Region,  408 
Bellamy,  Samuel,  234-35 
Belmont,  371 

Benfield  House  (Belfast),  226 
Benton,  320 
Benton  Falls,  320 
Bernard,  Francis,  Sir,  281-82 
Berwick  Academy  (South  Berwick),  337 
Berwick  Sponge  Cake,  338 
Beryl  mining,  370 
Bethel,  302 


Bethel  Inn  (Bethel),  302 

Betterment  Act,  41 

Biard,  Pierre,  Father,  30,  285-86,  287 

Bible  Society  of  Maine,  84 

Biddeford,  208,  254-55 

Biddeford  Pool  (Biddeford),  254 

Biddeford  Saco  Country  Club  (Biddeford),  256 

Big  Squaw  Township  (see  Unorganized  Town- 
ship No.  2,  Range  6) 

Bigelow,  352 

Bigelow  Game  Preserve,  352 

Bingham,  333 

Bingham,  William,  333 

Birch  Harbor,  276 

Birch  Island,  394-95 

Bird,  Thomas,  173 

Black  Hawk  Tavern  (Houlton),  152 

Black,  John,  Col.,  230 

Black  Mansion  (Ellsworth),  230 

Black  Point  Fruit  Farm  (Scarboro),  210 

Black  Point  Preserve  and  Game  Farm  (Scar- 
boro), 210 

Blackburn,  Joseph,  102 

Elaine,  244 

Elaine  House  (Augusta),  126 

Elaine,  James  G.,  122,  126 

Blaisdell  House  (Belfast),  226 

Blaisdell  House  (Frankfort),  228 

Blockhouse  (Winslow),  328 

Blue  Hill,  287 

Bluehill,  287-88 

Bluehill  Falls,  288 

Boarding  Blocks  (Lewiston),  158-59 

Boar's  Head  (Monhegan  Island),  397 

Bog  Brook,  424 

Bok,  Mary  Louise,  225 

Bonafide  Mills  (Winthrop),  357 

Boothbay,  266 

Boothbay  Harbor,  266 

Boston  and  Maine  Railroad,  71-72 

Boston  Watch  Company  (Brunswick),  139 

Boulder  and  Tablet  (Augusta),  122 

Boundary  Cottage,  325 

Boundary  line,  Maine  and  New  Hampshire 
(i739).  36 

Bourne  Mansion  (Kennebunk),  207 

Bowdoin  Art  Collection  (Brunswick),  141 

Bowdoin  College  (Brunswick),  history  of, 
141-42;  buildings,  145-48;  charter  of,  80 

Bowdoin  College  Library  (see  Hubbard  Hall) 

Bowdoin,  James,  141 

Bowdoin,  James,  Gov.,  141 

Bowdoin  Pines  (Brunswick),  146 

Boyd  Lake,  315-16 

Braden  Monument  (Presque  Isle),  245 

Bradford,  William,  Gov.,  118 

Bradstreet,  Simon,  35 

Bray,  Marjory  (Lady  Pepperell),  249 

Brewer,  229,  304 

Brewer,  John,  Col.,  229 

Brewster,  Ralph  0.,  Gov.,  321 

Bridgewater,  244 

Bridgton,  380-81,  440 

Bridgton  Academy  (Bridgton),  380 

Bridle  trips:  Augusta,  435~36;  Bangor,  433-35J 
miscellaneous,  436-37 

Briggs,  William  C.,  338 

Bristol,  268-70 

Brooklin,  288-89 


Index 


461 


Brookton,  242 

Browne,  Charles  Farrar  (see  Ward,  Artemus) 

Browne,  Richard,  270 

Brownfield,  368 

Brownville,  319 

Brownville  Junction,  319 

Brunswick,  139-49;  Bpwdoin  College,  141-42, 
145-48  (see  also  individual  entry);  economic 
development,  140;  Indians  and,  140;  in- 
dustries, 139,  140;  noted  citizens,  140-41 

Bryant  Pond,  365 

Bucknam  House,  Maude  (Columbia  Falls),  233 

Bucksport,  273-74 

Building  of  Arts  (Bar  Harbor),  283 

Bulfinch,  Charles,  132-33,  138 

Bull,  Dixey,  269 

Bullockites,  83 

Bumpus  Mine  (Albany),  370 

Burial  grounds  —  Indian:  Orland,  275;  Perry, 
278-79;  Waterville,  196;  Windham,  376; 
Winslow,329.  While:  Andover,3O3 ;  Augusta, 
373;  Bristol,  268,  269;  Bucksport,  274; 
Falmouth,  213;  Freeport,  214;  Georgetown, 
262;  Indian  Island,  296;  Machias,  235; 
Manchester,  356;  Portland,  177;  Scarboro, 
210;  South  Berwick,  338;  Whitefield,  374; 
Waldoboro,  221;  Windham,  342;  Winslow, 
329;  York,  252 

Burnell  House  (West  Baldwin),  367 

Burnham,  321 

Burnham  Tavern  (Machias),  235 

Burnt  Head  (Monhegan  Island),  397 

Burr,  Aaron,  128 

Burroughs,  George,  Rev.,  172 

Bus  Lines,  xxi 

Bustin's  Island,  394 

Buswell,  Jacob,  130 

Buxton,  340-41 

Cabot,  John,  28 

Cabot  Manufacturing  Company's  Millyard 
(Brunswick),  144 

Cabot,  Sebastian,  28 

Cadillac,  de  la  Mpthe,  Sieur,  281 

Cadillac  Mountain  Summit  Road  (Bar  Har- 
bor), 283 

Calais,  239-41 

Calendar  Isles,  211 

Camden,  225,  440 

Camden  Bowl  (Camden),  225 

Camden  Opera  House  (Camden),  225 

Camp  Ellis,  256 

Camp  Etna  (Etna),  298 

Camp  Keyes  (Augusta),  129 

Camp  site  (Ogunquit),  205 

Campobello  Island,  278 

Canaan,  299 

Candage,  Otis  M.,  288 

Canibas  Indians,  192 

Canoe  trips:  Allagash  River,  419-22;  East 
Branch,  422-24;  Dead  River  and  Moosehead 
Waters,  424-25;  miscellaneous,  426-27; 
Rangeley  Lakes,  426.  (See  also  Sports, 
Recreation) 

Cape  Cottage  (South  Portland),  211 

Cape  Elizabeth,  211 

Cape  Neddick,  204 

Cape  Porpoise,  254 

Capital  punishment,  222 


Caratunk,  333 

Caratunk  Falls  (Solon),  333 

Caribou,  245-46,  441 

Caribou  Stream,  246 

Carlton  Bridge  (Bath),  216 

Carmel,  298 

Carnegie  Science  Building  (see  Bates  College) 

Carrabassett,  352 

Carroll,  Gladys  Hasty,  100,  336 

Carter  House  (Paris),  364 

Gary,  243 

Gary,  Annie  Louise,  birthplace  of  (Wayne),  358 

Gary,  Shepard,  154 

Gary,  William  H.,  151 

Gary's  Mills,  154 

Casco,  376-78 

Casco  Bay,  164,  212,  213,  386 

Casco  Bay  Islands,  211,  386-95  (see  also  indi- 
vidual entries) 

Casco  Castle  (South  Freeport),  214 

Case,  Isaac,  356 

Castine,  290-92;  Indians  in,  290;  Pilgrims  and, 
290;  Revolutionary  War,  291;  War  of  1812, 
291 

Castine  Expedition,  130 

Caterpillar  Hill  (Sedgwick),  289 

Cathedral  of  the  Immaculate  Conception 
(Portland),  176-77 

Cathedral  Pines  (Eustis),  346 

Cathedral  Woods,  397 

Cattle  Pound  (Jefferson),  374 

Cave,  The,  429 

Center  Lovell,  370 

Central  Maine  Power  Co.  (Bingham),  333 

Central  Maine  Sanatorium  (Fairfield),  330 

Chain  of  Ponds,  347-48 

Chaloner  Tavern  (Lubec),  277 

Chamberlain  House  (Brunswick),  148-49 

Chamberlain,  Joshua,  Gen.,  45,  148-49;  house 
of  (Brewer),  229 

Chamberlain  Lake  Dam,  420-21 

Chandler  House  (Brunswick),  145 

Chapelle,  Howard  L.,  231 

Chaplin,  Jeremiah,  Rev.,  194 

Chapman  Home  (Bethel),  302 

Charter  of  1639,  31 

Chase  House  (Limington),  384 

Chase,  Mary  Ellen,  100,  287-88 

Chase  Sawmill  (Limington),  384 

Chebeague  Legend,  389-90 

Cherry  field,  231-32 

Chesuncook  Dam,  422 

Chesuncook  Village,  435 

Chillicote  House  (Brewer),  229 

China,  355 

Chisholm,  344 

Christmas  Cove,  268 

Church  of  England,  41 

Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints, 
233 

'Church  of  the  Holy  Ghost  and  Us,'  84 

Churches:  Baptist:  Paris,  364;  Porter,  385; 
Whitefield,  374.  Congregational:  Augusta, 
128;  Benton,  321;  Brunswick,  148;  Ells- 
worth, 230;  Fryeburg,  369;  Kennebunkport, 
254;  Kittery,  250;  Portland,  189;  Saco,  209; 
Scarboro,  210;  Wells,  205.  Episcopal:  Fal- 
mouth, 231;  Portland,  185;  York,  204. 
Presbyterian:  Walpole,  267.  Roman  Catholic: 


462 


Index 


Augusta,  128-29;  Lewiston,  159;  Newcastle, 

220;    Portland,    176-77;    Whitefield,    373. 

Unitarian:  Kennebunk,  207;  Portland,  172; 

Standish,  383 

Churchill  House  (Portland)  (see  Dale  House) 
Cilley  House  (Thomaston),  222-23 
Cilley,  Jonathan,  222-23 
Circular  Depressions  (Houlton),  243 
Civil  War,  44-45 

Civil  War  Monument  (Portland),  172 
Clapboard  Island,  392-93 
Clapp  House  (Wiscasset),  218 
Clark  and  Lake  Settlement,  262 
Clarke,  MacDonald,  96 
Clarke,  Rebecca  Sophia,  98 
Clark's  Point  (Machiasport),  236 
Clay  Cove  (Portland),  180 
Clay  House  (Belfast),  226 
Cleaveland  Cabinet,  The  (see  Massachusetts 

Hall,  Brunswick) 
Cleaveland,  Parker,  146 
Cleeve,  George,  165 
Cliff  Island,  212,  390 
Clifton,  305 
Climate,  xxii,  5-6 
Clinton,  321 

Clough,  Samuel,  Capt.,  264-65 
Clubhouse  (Lucerne-in-Maine),  229 
Coast  Guard  Stations:  Biddeford,  254;  Jones- 
port,   234;   Lubec,   277;   Phippsburg,   261; 

South  Portland,  211 
Coastline,  201-04 

Cobb,  Sylvanus,  Jr.,  home  of  (Norway),  363 
Cobscook  Falls  (North  Trescott),  277 
Coburn,  Abner,  299 

Coburn  Classical  Institute  (Waterville),  196 
Coburn  Gore,  Unorganized  Township  of,  348 
Cochrane,  Harry,  358 
Cochranism,  83 

Coe  Infirmary  (Brunswick),  148 
Coffin,  Robert  P.  Tristram,  99-100 
Colburn  House  (Dresden),  350 
Colburn,  Reuben,  Maj.,  350 
Colby    College    (Waterville):    As    Waterville 

College,  42,  8 1 ;  campus  and  buildings,  195- 

96;    history,    194-95;    Maine   Literary  and 

Theological  Institute,  81 
Colcord,  Lincoln,  100;  home  of  (Searsport),  227 
Cole,  Charles  p.,  102 
College  of  Agriculture  (Orono),  297 
Columbia,  232 
'Columbia'  (ship),  379 
Columbia  Falls,  232 
Commerce:  Colonial,  59-60;  exports,  50,  56, 

58;  from  Revolution  to  Civil  War,  60-61; 

imports,  56;  later,  61-62;  shipping,  63,  132; 

types  of,  61-62 

Commercial  Street  (Portland),  180-81 
Community  Yacht  Club  (Rockland),  223 
Comstock  House  (see  Golden  Ball) 
Congregationalism,  41 
Consolidated  Maine  Central  Railroad,  71 
Cony  High  School  (Augusta),  123 
Corea,  276 
Corinna,  321 
Cornish,  367 
'Coronet'  (ship),  215 
Council  for  New  England,  31  (see  also  Council 

for  Plymouth) 


Council  for  Plymouth,  30-31 

'Country  of  the  Pointed  Firs'  (book),  272 

Courtship  of  Miles  Standish,  The  (poem),  118 

Cousin's  Island,  393 

Cox's  Head,  260 

Craigie's  Tavern  (Oxford),  362 

Cranberry  Isles,  285 

Crane,  John,  Col.,  grave  of  (Whiting),  237 

Crawford,  307 

Crock ertown,  Unorganized  Township  of,  352 

Crocket-Jewett-Broad  House  (Gorham),  342 

Cromwell,  Oliver,  206 

Cumberland  Club  House  (Portland),  183 

Cumberland  Country  Courthouse  (Portland), 

176 

Cumberland  Mills,  382 
Cundy's  Harbor,  258 
Curtis,  Cyrus  H.  K.,  176,  183;  birthplace  of 

(Portland),  183 
Gushing  Island,  388 
Cushnoc,  123 
Cusinock  (see  Cushnoc) 
Cutler,  277 
'Cynthia'  (ship),  252 

d'Abbade,  Jean-Vincent  (see  de  St.  Castin, 
Baron) 

d'Aubri,  Nicolas  (see  Aubry,  Nicolas) 

da  Verrazzano,  Giovanni,  29 

Dallas,  346 

Damariscotta,  220 

Dana  Warp  Mills  (Westbrook),  383 

Danforth,  242 

Danforth  Tavern  (Norridgwock),  330 

Danforth,  Thomas,  34,  35,  i?9 

Danish  Village  (Scarboro),  209 

Davenport  Memorial  Building  (Bath),  216 

Davis  Farm,  433 

Davis,  Jefferson,  306 

Day,  Holman  F.,  birthplace  of  (Augusta), 
328 

Day  House  (Woolwich),  217 

Day's  Ferry  (Woolwich),  217 

de  Castin,  Jean- Vincent,  25-26, 33, 290-91,  296 

de  Champlain,  Samuel,  29,  136,  225,  287,  281; 
Journals  of,  130;  Monument  (Mount  De- 
sert), 284 

de  Cheverus,  Jean,  Father,  220 

de  Gregoire  Marie  Theresa,  grave  of  (Bar  Har- 
bor), 282 

de  Monts,  Sieur,  29 

de  Poutrincourt,  Baron,  29 

de  St.  Castin,  Baron,  290 

Dead  Man's  Cove  (Cousin's  Island),  393 

'Dead  Pearl-Diver'  (statue)  (Portland),  103, 
183,  383 

Dead  River  and  Moosehead  Waters  Canoe 
Trip,  424-25 

Dead  River  Region,  408 

Dead  Ship  of  Harpswell,  The  (poem),  97,  392 

Deadman  Ledge,  398 

Dean  Camps,  434 

Deane  House  (Portland),  185 

Dearborn,  Henry,  Gen.,  119 

Dearborn,  Pamela  Augusta,  119 

Dedham,  229-30 

Deer  hunting,  415,  417,  418 

Deer  Island,  289 

Deer  Isle,  224,  289,  399 


Index 


463 


Deering  Mansion  (Portland),  188-89 

Deland,  Margaret,  100 

Dennison,  Aaron,  139 

Denny,  Samuel,  262 

Dennys  River  Fishing  Trip,  410-11 

Denny sville,  237-38,  411 

Derby,  317 

Desert  of  Maine,  213 

Devil's  Den  (Turner),  343~44 

Devil's  Half-Acre  (Bangor),  131 

Devil's  Staircase  (Lovell),  370 

Dexter,  321 

Direct  Primary  Law,  46 

District  of  Maine,  38,  39 

District  Schools  (see  Rural  Schools) 

Dixey  Bull,  269 

Dixfield,  301 

Dixmont,  353~54 

Dochet  Island,  239 

Dole,  325 

Dole  House  (Portland),  184 

Dole,  Nathan  Haskell,  98 

Dorcas  Society,  340 

Dover-Foxcroft,  317 

Dow  Farm,  433 

Dow  Homestead  (Portland),  186 

Dow,  Neal,  186 

Dresden,  350 

Dresden  Mills,  350 

Druillettes,  Gabriel,  32,  82,  118,  331 

Dry  Mills,  360 

du  Guast,  Pierre,  29 

Duck-hunting,  140,  416,  417 

Dunbar,  David,  36 

Dunham,  Mellie,  363 

Dunlap,  David,  144 

Dunlap,  Fanny,  185 

Dunlap  House  (Brunswick),  145 

Dunlap,  Robert,  Gov.,  144 

Dunlap,  Robert,  Maj.-Gen.,  145 

Dunstan,  209 

Dunton,  W.  Herbert,  121 

Dustin,  Hannah,  234 

Dutch  attempt  at  colonization,  33 

Dutch  explorers,  30 

Dutch  West  Indies  Company,  33 

Dyer  Brook,  293 

Dyer  House  (Castine),  292 

Eagle  Island,  212,  390 

Eagle  Lake,  308 

Earliest  recorded  Transportation,  68 

Earthworks  of  Fort  Machias  (Machiasport), 
236 

East  Boothbay,  266 

East  Branch  Canoe  Trip,  422-24 

East  Brownfield,  368 

East  Holden,  229 

East  Limington,  384 

East  Machias,  236-37 

East  Millinocket,  311 

East  Orland,  275 

East  Seboomook,  419 

East  Stoneham,  370 

Easter  sunrise  services  (Bar  Harbor),  283 

Eastern  Maine  Conference  Seminary  (Bucks- 
port),  274 

Eastern  Music  Camp  (Sidney),  106 

Eastern  Promenade  (Portland),  187 


Eastman  Community  House  (South  Berwick), 

337 

Easton,  244 
Eastport,  280 

Eastport  Country  Club  Inn  (Eastport),  281 
Eckstorm,  Fannie  Hardy,  77 
Eddington,  304 
Eddy,   Jonathan,    memorial  to   (Eddington), 

304 

Eddy,  Mary  Baker  Glover,  221-22 

Edgecomb,  264-65 

Education,  42,  80—82;  first  real  school,  80; 
free  high  school  law,  80; '  moving  schools,'  80; 
normal  schools,  80;  rural  schools,  81 ;  colleges, 
81-82 

Edwards  and  Walker  Hardware  Company 
Building  (Portland),  172 

Edwards  Manufacturing  Company  Mill  (Au- 
gusta), 126 

Eliot,  John,  82 

Ellsworth,  230 

Ellsworth  City  Hall  (Ellsworth),  230 

Elmore  Neighborhood,  271 

Embargo  Law  of  1807,  39 

Emmons  House  (Brunswick),  144-45 

'Enterprise'  (ship),  177 

Eric  the  Red,  28 

Etchimins,  24,  26,  130 

Etna,  298 

Etnier,  Stephen,  103,  104 

Eustis,  346-47 

Eustis  Ridge,  347 

Evans  Notch,  302 

Executive  Mansion  (see  Elaine  House) 

Fairfield,  329 

Falls  of  the  Androscoggin  (Brunswick),  144; 
(Rumford),  301 

Falmouth  (see  Portland) 

Falmouth  Foreside,  213 

'Falmouth  Gazette'  (publication),  40,  167 

Falmouth  Town  (see  Falmouth  Foreside) 

'Fanshawe' (novel),  97 

Farming,  63-67;  blueberries,  66;  dairy  pro- 
ducts, 64;  decrease  in,  66;  earliest,  63;  grain 
production,  64;  home-making  type,  63; 
market,  66;  orchard,  65;  potatoes,  65,  150, 
240,  245-46,  309;  poultry,  66;  roadside 
market,  65;  sheep  and  cattle,  64;  sweet 
corn,  65-66 

Farmingdale,  327 

Farmington,  300-01,  344-45 

Farmington  Falls,  300 

Farnum,  William  and  Dustin,  birthplace  of 
(Bucksport),  274 

Farrar,  Isaac,  137 

Fauna,  15-19 

Federal  Court  Building  (Portland),  176 

Federal  Street  (Brunswick),  144 

Federalists,  38-39 

Feke,  Robert,  102 

'  Female  Friendship'  (book),  95 

Female  Samaritan  Association  of  Portland,  84- 

85 
Fern,  Fanny,  96, 176;  birthplace  of  (Portland), 

176 

Fernald's  Point,  285 
Fessenden,  William  Pitt,  Hon.,  186 
Field  House,  Ben  (Belfast),  226 


464 


Index 


Field,  Rachel,  100,  285;  summer  home  of 
(Cranberry  Isles),  285 

Financial  panic  of  1835,  55 

Fire  of  1866,  178 

Fire  Law,  xxii 

Fire  Tower  (Bridgton),  381 

First  Civic  Monument  (Portland),  187 

First  Hotel  in  Maine,  site  of  (Biddeford),  255 

First  naval  engagement  of  Revolution,  38 

First  Parish  Church  (Portland),  172 

First  Permanent  English  Colony  (Machias), 
235 

First  'radio  parish/  84 

First  real  school,  80 

First  representative  body  in  permanent  settle- 
ment, 31 

First  Train  in  Augusta,  120 

Fish  River  Region,  408-09 

Fisher  House  (Bluehill),  287-88 

Fisher,  Jonathan,  287 

Fishing  industry:  decline  of,  51;  early,  50; 
later  development,  50-51;  principal  varieties, 
50-51 ;  (see  also  Industry,  Commerce,  Sports) 

Fitch  Tavern  (Cornish),  367 

Five  Islands  (Georgetown),  263 

Flagstaff,  347 

Flora,  12-15 

Flying  Place,  234 

Folklore:  folk  dialects,  78;  folk  wisdom,  79; 
folksongs,  76-78;  folktales,  78-79;  folkways, 
76-82 ;  speech  peculiarities,  78 

Folkways  (see  Folklore) 

Fore  Street  (Portland),  177-78 

Forest  City,  Unorganized  Township  of,  242 

Forest  Station,  242 

Forests:  Cathedral  Pines,  346;  Cathedral 
Woods,  397;  White  Mountains  National,  370 

Forks,  The,  334 

Fort  Fairfield,  246 

Fort  Gorhamtown,  site  of  (Gorham),  341 

Fort  Hill,  site  of  (Biddeford),  255 

Fort  House  (Bristol),  269 

Fort  Kent,  248,  308 

Fort  Kent  Mills,  308 

Fort  New  Casco,  site  of  (Portland),  212-13 

Fort  Noble,  site  of  (Bath),  259 

Fort  Pentagoet,  site  of  (Castine),  291 

Fort  Settlement  (Augusta),  119 

Fort  St.  George's,  site  of  (St.  George),  271 

Fort  Sullivan,  site  of  (Eastport),  280 

Fort  William  Henry,  reproduction  of  Tower 
(Bristol),  269 

Forts:  Augusta:  Western,  119,  121;  Bristol: 
Charles,  269,  Frederick,  269,  Shurt's,  269, 
William  Henry,  35,  269;  Brunswick:  Andros, 
140,  site  of,  144,  George,  140,  site  of,  144; 
Castine:  George,  291,  Madison,  291;  Edge- 
comb:  Edgecomb,  264;  Fort  Kent:  Kent,  248, 
Great  Diamond  Island:  McKinley,  389 ;  House 
Island:  Scammell,  387-88 ;  Kittery:  McClary, 
250;  Machiasport:  Machias  (O'Brien),  236; 
Phippsburg:  Baldwin,  260,  Popham,  261, 
St.  George,  260;  Portland:  Loyal,  35,  179- 
80;  Prospect:  Knox,  227;  Scarboro:  Josselyn, 
210;  South  Portland:  Gorges,  211,  Preble, 
211,  Williams,  211;  Winslow:  Halifax,  119, 
192,  328-29 

Fortune  Rocks  (Biddeford),  254 

Forty-fifth  Parallel  of  Latitude,  238 


Foster's  Corner,  342 

Foster's  Rubicon,  236 

Fox-hunting,  415 

Fox  Island  Thorofare,  399 

Frankfort,  228 

Franklin,  Benjamin,  181-82 

Eraser  Paper   Company,   Ltd.   Mills   (Mada- 

waska),  247 

Free  Camp  Site  (Alexander),  307 
Free  high  school  law,  80 
Free-Soil  Party,  43 
Freemason's  Arms  (Portland),  171 
Freeport,  214 
French  and  Indian  War,  1744,  36-37  (see  also 

History) 

French  influence,  33 
French  Revolution,  38 
Frenchville,  247-48 
Friendship,  221 

Frost  House,  Nathaniel  (Kennebunk),  207 
Fryeburg,  368-69,  441 
Fryeburg  Academy  (Fryeburg),  369 
Frye's  Leap  (Casco),  378 
Fuller,  Melville  W.,  121 
Furlong,  Atherton,  365 

Gannett,  William  Howard,  121,  129 

Gardiner,  326 

Gardiner,  Sylvester,  326,  350 

Garland  House  (Bangor),  136 

Garrick  Playhouse  (Kennebunkport),  254 

Garrison  Cove  (Scarboro),  210 

Garrison  Hill,  154 

Garrison  Island,  221 

Gehring,  John  G.,  302 

Gendall,  Walter,  393 

Geography  and  Topography,  3-5 

Geology,  6-8;  Cambrian  fossils,  7;  Cenozoic 
era,  7;  Devonian  period,  7;  ice  age,  7-8; 
Mesozoic  era,  7;  Ordovician  beds,  7;  Pale- 
ozoic rocks,  6-7 ;  Pre-Cambrian  rocks,  6 

Georgetown,  263 

German  immigrants,  31 

Gilead,  302 

Gilman  Mansion  (Brunswick),  142-43 

Ginn,  Edwin,  274 

Glassware,  collection  of  (Friendship),  221 

Glines  Neighborhood,  381 

Goff  Hill  (Auburn),  163 

Gold,  ii 

'Gold  Hunter'  (ship),  132 

Golden  Ball  (see  Comstock  House),  277 

Goldwaithe  House  (Biddeford),  255 

Good  Will  Farm  (Fairfield) ,  330 

Goodall  Worsted  Company  Factory  (Sanford), 

339 

'Goodly  Heritage'  (book),  287-88 
Goodwin  House  (South  Berwick),  337-38 
Goodwin  Ichabod,  Gen.,  337-38 
Gorgeans  (see  York) 
Gorges,  Ferdinando,  Sir,  31,  32,  165,  251,  260, 

272,  392 

Gorges,  Thomas,  31,  251 
Gorges,  William,  31 
Gorham,  34i~42,  383 
Gosnold,  Bartholomew,  29 
Gould's  Academy  (Bethel),  302 
Gouldsboro,  231,  275-76 
'Governor  Ames,'  (ship),  220 


Index 


465 


Government,  48-49  (see  also  History) 

Graf  ton  Notch  (Newry),  365 

'Grand  Design'  (ship),  286 

Grand  Falls,  425 

Grand  Isle,  247 

Grand  Lakes  and  Schoodic  Region,  409 

Grand  Trunk  Railway,  71 

Grand  Trunk  Station  (Portland),  179-80 

Granite  Quarrying,  398 

Grant,  Ulysses  S.,  121 

Gray,  342-43.  360 

Great  Chebeague  Island,  389 

Great  Diamond  Island,  388-89 

Great  Farm  (Dixmont),  353~54 

Great  Head,  284 

Great  Island,  257 

Great  Moshier  Island,  393 

Great  Mountain  Cave  (Orland),  275 

Great    Northern    Paper    Company    (Pittston 

Farm),  324,  325 
Great  Northern  Paper  Company  (Sourdnahunk 

Depot  Camp),  314 
Great  Northern   Paper   Company   Newsprint 

Plant  (Millinocket),  311-12 
'Great  Patent,'  30 
Green  Indians,  371 
Greenback  Party,  45-46 
Greene,  359 

Green's  Farm  (Coplin),  346 
Greenville,  322,  441 
Greenville  Junction,  323 
Greenwood,  365 

Greenwood  Ice  Caves  (Woodstock),  365 
Grindstone,  310 
Grindstone  Inn  Golf  Club  (Winter  Harbor), 

275 

Grindstone  Neck,  275 
Guide  Service,  308,  309,  310,  322,  323 
Guilford,  318 
Gulf  Island  Dam,  359 
Gulf,  The,  320,  434 
Gulick,  ,Luther,  378 
Guppy,  Charles,  394 
'Gurnet, '258,  392 

Hahn,  William  H.,  221 

Haines  Landing,  349 

HAJ  boats,  437 

Haley  House  (Biddeford),  255 

Half  Way  House,  419-20 

Halidon,  382 

Hall,  Robert  B.,  195 

Hallowell,  52,  58,  70,  119,  327-28 

Hallowell,  Benjamin,  327 

Hallowell  Granite  Quarries  (Hallowell),  327-28 

Hamilton  House  (South  Berwick),  338 

Hamlin,  Augustus  C.,  21 

Hamlin,  Hannibal,  43,  136;  birthplace  of 
(Paris),  364;  house  of  (Bangor),  136;  Statue 
of  (Bangor),  136 

Hamlin  Peak,  4 

Hampden,  228,  353 

Hampden  Center,  353 

Hampden  Highlands,  228 

Hancock,  231 

Handicrafts:  cabinet  work,  112;  embroideries, 
no;  house  and  furniture  carving,  in;  in 
shipping  industry,  no-n;  influences  on, 
108;  metal  work,  112-13;  quilts,  109-110; 


rugs,  108-09;  ship  models,  111-12;  weaving, 
109 

Hanson,  Freeman,  340 

Harpswell,  257-58,  394 

Harpswell  Neck,  390 

Harpswell  Sound,  391-92 

Harrington,  232 

Haskell  Island,  390 

Haskell  Silk  Mill  (Westbrook),  383 

Hathorn  Hall  (see  Bates  College) 

Haven,  289 

Hawkins  House  (Bridgton),  380 

Hawkins,  John,  Sir,  29 

Hawthorne  House  (Brunswick),  145 

Hawthorne  House  (Casco),  377 

Hawthorne,  Nathaniel,  97,  103,  145,  377-78 

Hayden  House  (Raymond),  376 

Hayloft,  The  (Naples),  379-80 

Hay  wood,  John,  Capt.,  grave  of  (Bridgton), 
381 

Hazzard  Estate  (Old  Orchard  Beach),  256 

Hazzard  Shoe  Company  Factory  (Augusta), 
126 

Head  Tide,  219 

'Helen  Eliza'  (ship),  388 

Hell  Gate  (Woolwich),  262 

Hermitage,  The,  434 

Hermon,  298 

'Herringtown,'  119 

Higgins,  George,  83,  298 

Higginsites,  83,  298 

Higginsville,  298 

Highmoor  Farm  (Monmouth),  358-59 

Highways,  xxi 

Hiking,  427-32;  Hunt  Trail,  429;  miscellane- 
ous, 431-32;  Mount  Blue  Trail,  430-31; 
Saddleback  Mountain  Trail,  430;  Squaw 
Mountain  Trail,  430  (see  also  Recreation) 

Hill,  Charles,  Capt.,  380 

Hills  Beach,  255 

Hilton,  Winthrop,  332 

Hinds  House,  Asher  (Benton),  321 

Hiram,  367-68 

Hiram  Falls  (Baldwin),  367 

History:  Abolition  movement,  43;  as  part  of 
Massachusetts,  32,  34,  35-36,  39,  40;  Cana- 
dian boundary  dispute,  42;  character  of  in- 
habitants, 41-42,  47;  Civil  War,  44-45; 
commerce,  40-41;  early  explorations,  28-30: 
early  missions,  30,  32,  33;  early  territorial 
changes,  32733,  34,  38;  education,  42  (see 
also  Education);  French  and  Indian  Wars, 
34-35,  36-37;  French  influences,  33;  In- 
dustry, 40-41;  King  Philip's  War,  34; 
political  parties,  36,  38-39,  42,  43,  44,  45- 
46;  Prohibition  Movement,  43-44,  45,  47; 
religion,  41-42,  44  (see  also  Religion);  Revo- 
lution, 37-38;  settlement,  31-32;  War  of 
1812,  39-40;  water  power  legislation,  47; 
World  War,  46-47 

Hockomock  Point,  262 

Hodgdon,  243 

Hog  Island,  387 

Holden,  229 

Holden  House  (Moose  River),  334 

Holiness  Church,  352 

Holland,  John  P.,  364 

Hollingsworth  Whitney  Company  Mills  (Wins- 
low),  329 


466 


Index 


Hollis,  340 

Hollis  Center,  340 

Holmes  House  (Alfred),  339-40 

Holmes,  John,  339-40 

Homeland  Farms  (Gorham),  383 

Homer,  Winslow,  102 

Hook  Settlement,  119 

Hope,  374 

Hope  Island,  390 

Hormell,  Orren  C,  49 

Houlton,  149-54,  243,  293;  as  a  military  post, 

151;  communications,  152;  early  grants,  151; 

geologic  formations,  150;  in  the  Aroostook 

War,  151;  industries,  150 
Houlton  Grange  (Houlton),  154 
House  Island,  387-88 
Howard,  James,  Capt.,  119 
Howard,  O.  O.,  Gen.,  45,  122 
Howe's  Corner,  343 
Howells,  William  Dean,  97-98 
Rowland,  315 
Howland,  John,  118 
Hubbard  Hall  (Brunswick),  147 
Hubbard  House  (Hallowell),  327 
Hubbard  House  (Paris),  364 
Hubbard,  John,  Gov.,  356 
Hudson,  Henry,  30 
Hull's  Cove,  282 

Hunnewell  House  (Scarboro),  209 
Hunt  Trail,  429 
Hunting  (see  Sports) 
Hurricane  Island,  398 
Hurricane  Sound,  398 
Husbandmen,  165 
Hussey's  Sound,  389 
Hutchinson,  Anne,  205 
Hyde  Hall  (Brunswick),  147 

'Increase'  (ship),  205 

Indian  Cellar  (Buxton),  341 

Indian  Island,  295 

Indian  Lake,  237 

Indian  Relics,  collections  of:  Dennysville,  238; 
Naples,  379;  Windham,  375 

Indians:  as  state  wards,  38;  Canibas  tribe,  192; 
French  relations  with,  33, 130;  miscellaneous 
references,  140,  162-63,  213;  Penobscots, 
192;  reservations  -.Indian  Island,  295;  Prince- 
Ion,  242;  Revolution  and,  38;  settlers' 
attitude  toward,  36;  villages,  25,  384  (see 
also  Abnakis,  Red  Paint  People) 

Indian's  Foot  (Bar  Harbor),  284 

Indian's  Last  Leap  (Sanford),  339 

Indiantpwn,  Unorganized  Township  of,  241 

Industries:  Beryl  mining,  370;  fishing,  50-51, 
280,  397,  399-400;  lumbering,  54-57,  119, 
121, 131,  132,  139,  293,  295,  309,  335;  mis- 
cellaneous, 57-59;  quarrying,  58-59,  322, 
398;  shipbuilding,  51-54,  63;  shoe,  57,  157, 
357;  textile,  57-58,  121,  139,  208 

Information  Bureaus,  xxiii 

Ingram,  David,  29,  270,  30 

Institute  de  Notre  Dame  (Alfred),  340 

International  Bridge,  248 

International  Institute  of  Y.W.C.A.  (Bidde- 
ford),  85 

International  Longfellow  Society,  178 

International  Paper  Company  Plant  (Livermore 
Falls),  344 


International  Plan,  279-80 
Island  Falls,  294 
Isle  Au  Haut,  224,  400 
Islesboro,  226 
Islesford,  285 

Jacataqua  Oak  (Augusta),  127-28 

Jack-the-Ripper,  293-94 

Jackman,  334 

Jackson  Brook  Lake,  242 

Jackson  Memorial  Laboratory  (Bar  Harbor), 

284 

James  I,  30 

Jameson's  Tavern  (Freeport),  214 
Jay,  344 
Jefferson,  374 
Jefferson  Embargo,  63 
Jernegan  Gold  Swindle,  277 
Jerusalem,  Unorganized  Township  of,  352 
Jewell  Island,  212,  390 
Jewett,  Sarah  Orne,  98,  336-37,  338;  house  of 

(South  Berwick),  336-3? 
'John  A.  Briggs'  (ship),  214 
Johnson,  Henry,  98 
Johnston  House  (Castine),  291 
Jones,  Rufus  M.,  355;  summer  home  of  (China), 

T355u 
Jonesboro,  234 

Jonesport,  233 

Jordan,  Dominicus,  377 

'Journal  of  Maine  History'  (book),  317 

Judiciary  system,  48-49 

Katahdin  Iron  Works,  n,  319-20,  434 

Katahdin  Region,  408 

Katahdin  State  Game  Preserve,  312 

Kavanaugh  Mansion  (Newcastle),  220 

'Kearsarge'  (ship),  249 

Kebo  Valley  Country  Club  (Bar  Harbor),  283 

Keegan,  247 

Keiff's  Garden  (Cliff  Island),  390 

Kellogg,  Elijah,  98 

Kenduskeag  Mall  (Bangor),  136 

Kenduskeag  Plantation,  130 

Kennard  Home  (Windham),  375 

'Kennebec'  (ship),  72,  168 

Kennebec  Agricultural  Society,  356 

Kennebec  County,  3Q,  57,  117,  119,  300 

Kennebec  County  Jail  (Augusta),  128 

Kennebec  Dam  (Augusta),  123 

Kennebec  Journal  (newspaper),  122 

Kennebec  Journal  Offices  (Augusta),  122 

Kennebec  Patent,  118 

Kennebec  Purchase,  352;  Proprietors,  119, 
327,  373 

Kennebunk,  206-08,  253 

Kennebunk  Beach,  253 

Kennebunkport,  253-54 

Kent,  Rockwell,  103-04,  397 

Kent's  Hill,  356 

Keyes  House  (Fairneld),  330 

Kezar  Falls,  385 

Kezar  Falls  Woolen  Company  Mill  (Parsons- 
field),  385 

Kidd,  William,  Capt.,  212,  228,  265,  350,  395 

Kidd's  Cave  (Squirrel  Island),  395 

Kimball,  William,  Gen.,  364 

Kimball,  William  W.,  Rear  Admiral,  364 

Kinaldo,  313 


Index 


467 


Kineo  House  (Rockwood),  324 

Kineo  Legend,  323 

King  Chapel  (Brunswick),  147 

King  Homestead  (Sqarboro),  209 

King  House,  Cyrus  (Saco),  208 

King  House,  William,  site  of  (Kingfield),  352 

King  Phillip's  War,  34 

King,  William,  42;  birthplace,  site  of  (Scar- 

boro),  257 

King  William's  War,  34-35 
Kingfield,  352 
Kingsbury  Plantation,  318 
Kirby,  R.  M.,  Maj.,  151 
Kittery,  32,  249-51 
Kittery  Point,  250 
Kneisel,  Franz,  288 
Kneisel  Hall  (Bluehill),  288 
Kneisel  Quartet,  288 
Know-Nothing  Party,  44 
Knox  County  Historical  Society  (Thomaston), 

23 

Knox,  Henry,  Gen.,  222,  333 
Kokadjo,  314 
Koussinock  (see  Cushnoc) 

La  Farge,  John,  147 

La  Grange,  315 

Lafayette  Elm  (Kennebunk),  207 

Lafayette  House  (Biddeford),  208 

Lake  Kezar  Country  Club  (Lovell),  370 

Lakes:  Allagash,  420;  Attean,  425;  Auburn, 
343;  Carry,  243;  Caucomgomoc,  420; 
Chamberlain  420,  423;  Chesuncook,  314, 
420;  China,  355;  Cobbosseecontee,  357; 
Cochran,  293;  Conroy,  244;  Damariscotta, 
374;  Eagle,  308;  Echo,  285;  Grand,  423; 
Highland,  380;  Howard,  244;  Kezar,  369; 
Leweys,  241;  Lobster,  419;  Long  (St. 
Agatha),  247-48,  (Naples),  378,  (Standish), 
384;  Lower  Richardson,  303-04;  Marana- 
cook,  356;  Meddybemps,  238;  Millinocket, 
312;  Mirror,  374;  Moosehead,  5, 322, 411-12; 
Moxie,  334;  Musquash,  242;  Portage,  309; 
Portland,  244;  Ragged,  422;  Sebago,  376, 
408;  Sebasticook,  298;  Spencer,  425;  St. 
Froid,  309;  Tripp,  359;  Turner,  400;  Umsas- 
kis,  421;  Wesserunsett,  299;  West  Mus- 
quash, 242;  Wilson,  301 

Lakeview,  434 

Lakewood,  299-300 

'Lamson'  (ship),  53 

Land  policy  of  Massachusetts,  39 

Landlocked  salmon,  376 

Lane's  Island,  393-94 

Larrabee  Garrison  House   (Kennebunk),  207 

Latter-Day    Saints,    Church    of    (Jonesport), 

233 

Laurel  Hill  (Auburn),  162-63 
Lawrence  Portland  Cement  Company  Plant 

(Thomaston),  223 
Lee,  Ann,  361 
Lee,  Jesse,  356 

Lee-Payson-Smith  House  (Wiscasset),  218-19 
Leif  the  Lucky,  28 
Leverett,  Thomas,  31 
Levett,  Christopher,  164-65 
Lewiston-Auburn,     155-163,     441;     history, 

156-57;  industries,  156-57;  politics,  156 
Lewiston  Armory  (Lewiston),  162 


Lewiston  Bleachery  and  Dye  Works  (Lewis- 
ton),  159 

Lewiston  Canal  (Lewiston),  158 

Lewiston  Falls  and  Dam  (Lewiston),  162 

Lewiston  Falls  Legend,  162 

Liberty,  371-72 

'Liberty'  (ship),  240 

Libraries:  Augusta:  Lithgow,  128,  Maine 
State,  127;  Bangor:  Bangor  Public,  137; 
Brunswick:  Bowdoin  College  (Hubbard 
Hall),  147;  Camden:  Camden  Public,  225; 
East  Machias:  East  Machias,  237;  Ells- 
worth: Public,  230;  Lewiston:  Coram  (see 
Bates  College);  Orono:  Carnegie,  297;  Paris: 
Hamlin  Memorial,  364;  Wiscasset:  Town,  219 

Lighthouses:  Bristol:  Pemaquid,  270;  Harps- 
well:  Halfway  Rock,  258;  Kennebunk  port: 
Goat  Island,  254;  Lubec:  West  Quoddy,  277; 
Monhegan  Island:  Monhegan  Island,  397; 
Ogunquit:  Boon  Island,  205;  Owl's  Head: 
Owl's  Head,  224;  Phippsburg:  Fort  Popham, 
261,  Sequin  Island,  261;  Rockland:  Range 
Beacons,  223;  South  Portland:  Portland 
Head,  211,  Two  Lights,  211;  York:  Nubble, 

253 

Lilac  Cottage  (see  Clapp  House) 
Lily  Bay,  314-15 
Limerick,  366 
Limington,  384-85 
Lincoln,  294 

Lincoln  County  Courthouse  (Wiscasset),  218 
Lincoln,  Enoch,  95,  127 
Lincoln  Home  (Denny sville),  238 
Lindbergh,  Anne  Morrow,  399 
Lindsey  Tavern  (W'ells),  206 
Line  Houses  (Moose  River),  335 
'Lion,  The'  (locomotive),  71 
Lippincott    House    (Columbia    Falls),    233 
Literature,  94-100 
Lithgow  House  (Winslow),  328 
Little  Canada  (Lewiston),  155-56 
Little  Chebeague  Island,  389 
Little,  Clarence  C.,  284 
Little  Diamond  Island,  388 
Little  Moshier  Island,  393 
Little  Spencer  Stream,  425 
Little  Wohelo  (see  Luther  Gulick  Girls'  Camp) 
Littlejohn  Island,  393 
Littleton,  234-44 
Livermore,  344 
Livermore  Falls,  344 
Lobster  fishing,  397 
Lobster  Stream,  419 
Locke's  Mills,  365 

Locket,  Molly,  grave  of  (Andover),  303 
Log  cabins  (Princeton),  242 
Log  Village  (Rangeley),  348 
Long  Falls,  424-25 
Long  Island,  389 
Long  Pond  Dam,  425 
Long  Reds,  377 

Longfellow  Garden  Society,  182 
Longfellow,  Henry  Wadsworth,  96-97,  I44~45» 

148,    178,    182;    birthplace   of    (Portland), 

178-79;  statue  (Portland),  186 
Longfellow  Square  (Portland),  212. 
Lord  House  (Kennebunk),  207 
'Lost  Paradise'  (book),  257 
Loud's  Island,  270 


468 


Index 


Louisburg,  capture  of,  37 

Lovejoy,  Elijah  Parish,  354-55;  homestead 
(Albion),  354 

Lovell,  369-70 

Lovell,  John  H.,  residence  of  (Waldoboro),  221 

Lovewell's  Fight,  site  of  (Bridgton),  381 

Lovewell's  War,  140 

Loyalists,  36 

Lubec,  277 

Lucernt-in-Maine,  229-30 

Ludlow,  293 

Lumbering  and  allied  industries:  condition 
influences,  54~55;  development,  55,  56; 
phases  of  economic  development,  54;  pulp 
industry,  56-57  (see  also  Industry,  Com- 
merce) 

Lumberjacks,  334 

Luques  House  (Kennebunkport),  254 

Luther  Gulick  Girls'  Camp  (Casco),  378 

Lynchville,  370 

Lyon,  Harry,  Capt.,  364 

Lyonsden  (Paris),  364 

Machias,  30,  32,  38,  92,  234-36,  290 

Machias  River,  235 

Machias  Seal  Island,  18 

Machiasport,  71,  236 

Mackworth,  Arthur,  392 

Mackworth  Island,  392 

Macleod  Call  Camp,  435 

Macomber  Playground  (Augusta),  126 

Macwahoc,  294 

Madawaska,  247 

Madawaska  Training  School  (Fort  Kent),  80 

Maddocks,  Luther,  266 

Madison,  332 

Madockowando,  25-26 

Madrid,  345 

'Maine'  (ship),  126 

Maine  Administration  Code  of  1931,  48 

Maine  Agricultural  Experiment  Station,  297 

Maine  and  Central  Vermont  Airways,  73 

Maine  and  New  Hampshire  Boundary  (1739), 
36 

Maine  Central  Institute  (Pittsfield),  321 

Maine  Chance  (Mount  Vernon),  356-57 

Maine  Department  of  Inland  Fisheries  and 
Game,  407 

Maine  Forestry  District,  49 

Maine  Garrison  Houses,  87 

Maine  Hall  (Brunswick),  146-47 

Maine  Historical  Society  (Portland),  23 

Maine  Hunting  Laws,  418 

Maine  Literary  and  Theological  Institution 
(Wateryille)  (see  Colby  College) 

Maine  Mineral  Store  (Paris),  364 

Maine  Music  Festivals,  106,  170  (see  also 
Music) 

Maine  Seaboard  Paper  Company  Mill  (Bucks- 
port),  273 

Maine  Society  of  Colonial  Dames,  190 

Maine  State  Pier  (Portland),  181 

Maine  State  Planning  Board,  4 

Maine  State  Prison  (Thomaston),  222 

Maine  State  Seminary,  81 

Maine  Steel,  Inc.  (South  Portland),  211 

Maine  Wesleyan  Seminary  (Readfield),  356 

'Major  Jack  Downing  Letters'  (Articles),  -570 

Mallison  Falls  (South  Windham),  342 


'Malta  War,'  120,  373 

Manana  Island,  396 

Manchester,  355-57 

Manning  House  (Casco),  377 

Manitou  Kennebec,  118 

Manning,  Richard,  377 

Manor,  The  (Naples),  379 

Mansion  House  (Poland  Spring),  361-62 

'Marble  Faun,  The'  (novel),  103,  183 

Marbury,  Elizabeth,  356 

Marbury  House  (Mount  Vernon),  356 

'Margaretta'  (ship),  38,  236 

Marie  Antoinette  House  (Edgecomb),  264- 
65 

Marie,  Henrietta,  3 

Marin,  John,  103-04 

'Mark  Bachelder  Tragedy'  (folk  song),  77 

Market  Square  (Portland)  (see  Monument 
Square) 

Marrett  House  (Standish),  383 

Mars  Hill,  244 

Martinsville,  272 

Masardis,  309 

Mason  House  (Calais),  240 

Mason,  John,  Capt.,  31 

Mason  Manufacturing  Company  Factory 
(South  Paris),  363-64 

Masonry,  43 

Massabesic  (see  Alfred) 

Massachusetts,  union  with,  32 

Massachusetts  Charter  of  1691, 35 

Massachusetts  Hall  (Brunswick),  146 

Masse,  Ennemond,  Father,  285-86 

Mattawamkeag,  294 

Maxim  gun,  318 

Maxim,  Hiram,  Sir,  316,  317-18 

Maxim,  Hudson,  316 

Maxim,  Isaac  (see  Maxim,  Hudson) 

'Maximite,'  316 

Maxwell,  Alexander,  252 

May  House  (Norridgewock),  330 

Mayflower  Hill  (Wateryille),  196 

McArthur  House  (Limington),  385 

McArthur,  William,  Gen.,  385 

McCobb,  James,  224-25;  house  of  (Phipps- 
burg),  259 

McDonald  Inn  (Limerick),  366 

Mclntire  Garrison  House  (York),  204 

McKeen,  Joseph,  146 

Means  House  (Portland),  190 

Mechanic  Falls,  359 

Meddybemps  Village,  410 

Medway,  310-11 

Meeting-houses:  Buxton:  Tory  Hill,  341; 
Castine:  Old,  291;  China:  Friends,  355; 
Manchester:  Methodist,  356;  New  Gloucester: 
Shaker,  361;  Poland:  Center,  362;  Waldo- 
boro: German,  221;  Winthrop:  Quaker,  357; 
Wicasset:  Alna,  91,  219;  Woolwich:  Nequas- 
set,  217 

Melcher,  Samuel,  142,  145,  148 

Melcher,  Samuel,  3d,  140-41 

Mellen-Fessenden  House  (Portland),  186 

Memorial  Hall  (Brunswick),  146 

Mercer,  300 

Mere  Point,  149 

Meridian  Stones  (Fryeburg),  369 

'Merino  fever,' 64 

Merrymeeting  Bay,  149 


Index 


469 


Methodist  Camp  Ground  (Old  Orcaard  Beach), 
256 

Methodists,  42 

Mexico,  301 

Milbridge,  231 

Milford,  295 

Millay,  Edna  St.  Vincent,  99, 392;  birthplace  of 
(Rockland),  223 

Miller  Tavern,  Joseph  (Belfast),  226 

Miller,  William,  298 

Millerites,  298 

Milliken  House  (Portland),  185 

Millinocket,  311-12 

Mills,  Bruce,  391 

Mills,  Wallace,  391 

Milltown,  241 

Milo,  316-17 

Mineral  Resources,  10-11 

Minot  House  (Belgrade),  351 

Minot,  John  Clair,  351 

'Minstrelsy  of  Maine'  (book),  77 

Misery  Gore,  323-24 

Missionaries  (see  Religion) 

Mitton,  Michael,  388 

Mogg  Heigon  Marker  (Scarboro),  210 

Monastery  of  the  Precious  Blood  (Portland), 
1 86 

Moncacht-Ape,  263 

Money  Cove  (Isle  au  Haut),  400 

Money  Holes  (Pittston),  350 

Monhegan  Island,  396-97 

Monhegan  Island  Race,  438 

Monmouth,  358 

Monmouth  Academy  (Monmouth),  358 

Monmouth  Town  Hall  (Monmouth),  358 

Monspn,  322 

Monticello,  244 

Montpelier  (Thomaston),  223 

Monument  Square  (Portland),  171-72 

Moody,  Samuel,  166 

Moose  Cave  (Newry),  36" 

Moose  hunting,  417 

Moose  River,  334-35 

Moosehead  Lake  Fishing  Trip,  411-12 

Moosehead  Lake  Region,  408 

Moosehorn,  348 

Moro  Plantation,  310 

Morrill  Act,  296 

Morrison  Heights,  358 

Morton  Homestead  (Raymond),  376 

Mosher,  Thomas  Bird,  100 

Moulton  House  (Buckspprt),  274 

Moulton  Union  (Brunswick),  148 

Mount  Blue  Trail,  430-31 

Mount  Desert,  284-86 

Mount  Desert  Island,  14,  29,  30,  281-86 

Mount  Desert  Island  Biological  Laboratory 
(Bar  Harbor),  282 

Mount  Desert  Players,  283 

Mount  Vernon,  356-57 

Mountain  climbing  (see  Recreation) 

Mountains:  Acadia,  285;  Agamenticus,  205; 
Bag  Pond,  347;  Battie,  225;  Baxter  Peak, 
429;  Blue,  430;  Cadillac,  4,  276,  281,  283; 
Coburn,  334;  Great,  275;  Katahdin,  4, 
312-14,  429;  Kineo,  4,  322-23;  Lead,  306; 
Magurrewock,  241;  Mica,  364;  Mosquito, 
227,  3345  Old  Blue,  303;  Old  Spec,  365: 
Ossipee,  366;  Owl's  Head,  334;  Pickard, 


353;  Pleasant,  381;  Plumbago,  303;  Ragged, 
374;  Sabattus,  369;  Saddleback,  4,  345, 
384,  430;  Schoodic,  276;  Squaw,  430; 
Sugarloaf,  4;  Waldo,  228 

Mowatt,  Henry,  Capt.,  166-67 

Mt.  Katahdin,  312-14 

Mt.  Katahdin  Legends,  313-14 

Mt.  Waldo  Granite  Corporation  Plant  (Pro- 
spect), 228 

Mt.  Zircon  Bottling  Company  Works  (Rum- 
ford),  302 

Mud  Pond  Carry,  422 

Municipal  Auditorium  (Portland)  (see  Port- 
land City  Hall) 

Murch  House  (Casco),  377 

Muscongus  Grant  of  1630,  31,  41 

Muscongus  Patent  (see  Muscongus  Grant) 

Museums,  art:  Portland:  Sweat,  104,  183 

Museums,  historic:  Augusta:  Fort  Western, 
121,  State,  23,  127;  Bangor:  Bangor  Histori- 
cal Society,  137;  Bar  Harbor:  Abbe,  23,  284; 
Bath:  Davenport  Memorial,  216;  Bruns- 
wick: Pejepscot  Historical,  145;  Castine: 
Howard  Wilson's,  23,  291;  Gorham:  Baxter, 
341;  Islesford:  Sawtelle,  285;  Portland: 
Maine  Historical  Society,  182-83;  Saco: 
York  Institute,  209;  Stonington:  Eastern 
Penobscot  Archives,  400;  Wateroille:  Reding- 
tpn,  10;  Windham:  Kennard  Indian  Collec- 
tion, 375 

Museum,  industrial,  Bridgton:  Spratt-Meade, 
380 

Museum,  marine,  Sears  port:  Penobscot,  227 

Museums,  natural  history:  Brunswick:  Searles 
Science  Building,  148;  F airfield:  Good  Will, 
330;  Lewiston:  Stanton  (see  Bates  College); 
Portland:  Natural  History,  21,  172 

Music:  Folk  music,  105-06;  organizations,  106; 
summer  camps  and  colonies,  107 

Muskrat  Settlement,  309 

'N.  W.  P.'  (denned),  31 

Nahanda  Legend,  339 

Naples,  378-380 

Narragansett  No.  7  (see  Gorham) 

Naskeag  Point  (Brooklin),  288 

Nasson  College  for  Women  (Sanford),  81,  339 

National  Arsenal,  site  of  (Augusta),  122 

National  Cemetery  (Augusta),  373 

National     Home     for     Disabled     Volunteer 

Soldiers  (see  U.S.  Veterans'  Administration 

Facility) 
Neal,  John,  186 

Neal  Houses,  John  (Portland),  186 
Needahbeh,  Chief,  296 
Neighborhood  House  (Mount  Desert),  285 
Neptune,  Moses,  278-79 
Nescambiou,  368 
New  Auburn,  155 

New  England  Conference  of  Methodists,  356 
'New  England  Rarities'  (book),  2IO 
New  Gloucester,  360-61 
New  Hampshire,  31 
New  Harbor,  269-70 
New  Lights  (see  Shakers) 
New  Portland,  352 
New  Sharon,  300 
New  Somersetshire,  31 
New  Sweden,  246 


470 


Index 


New  Vineyard,  351-52 

Newburgh,  353 

Newburgh  Center,  353 

Newcastle,  219-20 

Newhall,  342 

Newhall,  George  G.,  342 

Newport,  298 

Newry,  302,  365-66 

Newry  Mine,  303 

Noble,  Seth,  Rev.,  130-31 

Nobleboro,  220 

Nola,  Charles,  279 

Nonesuch  River,  210-11 

Nordica,  Lillian,  344~45J  birthplace  of  (Farm- 

ington),  344 

Normal  Schools,  legislation  for,  80 
'Normandie'  (ship),  240 
Norridgewpck,  300,  330 
Norse  navigators,  28 
North  Amity,  243 
North  Anson,  332 
North  Berwick,  338,  441 
North  Bridgton,  380 
North  Castine,  292 
North  Edgecomb,  264-65 
North  Harpswell,  257 
North  Haven,  224,  399 
North  Jay,  344 

North  Knox  Fairground  (Union),  374 
North  Limington,  384-85 
North  Lovell,  370 
North  Lubec,  277 
North  Lubec  Canning  Company  Plant  (Ston- 

ington),  400 
North  Newry,  365 
North  Searsmont,  371 
North  Star  Camp  (Waterboro),  366 
'North  to  the  Orient'  (book),  399 
North  Trescott,  277 
North  Turner,  343 
North  Whitefield,  373,  436 
North  Windham,  375 
North  Yarmouth,  34,  72,  213 
North  Yarmouth  Academy  (Yarmouth),  213 
Northeast  Harbor,  285 
Northeastern  Boundary  Dispute,  121 
Northern    Maine    General    Hospital    (Eagle 

Lake),  308 
Northport,  225 

Norton,  Lillian  (see  Nordica,  Lillian) 
Norumbega  Parkway  (Bangor),  133 
Norway,  362-63 

Norway  Advertiser-Democrat  (newspaper),  362 
Notch,  The,  303 

Nubble  Light  (York  Harbor),  253 
Nye,  'Bill'  (see  Nye,  Edgar  Wilson) 
Nye,  Edgar  Wilson,  98-99 

Oak  Grove  Seminary  (Vassalborough),  81,  328 

Oak  Hill,  209 

Oaklands,  326-27 

O'Brien,  Capt.,  grave  of  (Machias),  235 

Ocean  Park  (Old  Orchard  Beach),  256 

Ocean  Point,  266 

Ogunquit,  205-06 

Oilcloth  manufacture,  357 

Olamon,  295 

Old  Brick  House  (Gorham),  341 

Old  Brick  House  (Paris),  364 


Old  City  Hall  (Bangor),  136 

Old  Colonial  Houses  of  Topsham  (Houlton), 

149 

Old  Courthouse  (Castine),  292 
Old  Devereaux  House  (Castine),  292 
Old  Hallowell  Academy  (Hallowell),  327 
Old  Houses  (Falmouth),  213 
Old  Iron  Works  (Pembroke),  238 
Old  Jail  (Newry),  365 
Old  Johnson  House  (Belfast),  226 
Old  Lime  Kilns  (Rockport),  224 
Old  Orchard  Beach,  256,  405 
Old  Peterson  House  (Bath),  216 
Old  Point  (Norridgwock),  300,  330-32 
Old  Post  Office  Building  (Portland),  181-82 
Old  Red  House  (see  Hunnewell  House) 
Old  Rock  Schoolhouse  (Bristol),  270 
Old  Shepley  House  (Portland),  185 
Old  Shoppe  House  (Beddington),  306 
Old  Stone  Jail  (Paris),  364 
Old  Town,  24,  25,  26,  2Q5-g6 
Old   Town    Canoe    Company    Factory    (Old 

Town),  295 

Old  Windmill  (Casco),  377 
Opportunity  Farm  (Gray),  343 
Oquossoc,  349 
Orient,  243 
Orland,  274 
Orneville,  315-16 
Orono,  26,  296-97 
Orono,  Joseph,  26 
Orr  Homestead  (Harpswell),  258 
Orrington,  228 
Orr's  Island,  212,  258 
Orson,  Paul,  20 
Ossipee  River,  385 
Otis  House  (Belfast),  226 
Otter  Cliff  (Bar  Harbor),  284 
Owl's  Head  (Rpckland),  223 
Oxbow  Plantation,  309-10 
Oxford,  362 
Oxford  Paper  Co.  Mill  (Rumford),  301 

Paine,  John  Knowles,  178 

Palermo,  372 

Palestine  Emigration  Association,  83-84 

Palmyra,  299 

Panawamske  Island  (see  Indian  Island) 

Paris,  363-65 

Paris  Hill,  364 

Parker  Head,  260 

Parks:  Acadia  National,  282,  284,  440;  Bath 
City,  216;  Baxter  State,  312;  Bear  Pond, 
344;  Belfast  City,  225;  Coburn,  299;  Deer- 
ing's  Oaks,  189;  Dix,  228;  Fort  Allen,  187; 
Fort  Sumner,  187-88;  Ganeston,  129;  Grotto 
Cascade,  138;  Island,  357;  Knox  State 
Arboretum,  222;  Lincoln,  176;  Narragansett. 

t4i;    Norumbega,    133;     Stan  wood,    300; 
tate,  15,  127;  Sunset,  243 
Parlin  Pond  Camps,  334 
Parson-Mason  House  (Castine),  291 
Parsonsfield,  385 

Parton,  Sara  Payson  (see  Fern,  Fanny) 
Partridge  hunting,  417 
Passamaquoddy  Bay,  9,  279 
Passamaquoddy  Indians,  24,  26,  241-42,  278; 

hunting  grounds,  230,  241 
Passamaquoddy   Tidal   Power   Development 


Index 


471 


Project,  9,  10,  279;  model  of  (Quoddy  Vil- 
lage), 279 

'Patent'  (ship),  72 

Patent  of  the  Plough,  165 

Patten,  310 

Patten,  Gilbert,  321 

Peabody  House  (Houlton),  154 

Peacock  Tavern  (Topsham),  326 

Peak's  Island,  212,388 

Pearl  House  (Orr's  Island),  258,  392 

'Pearl  of  Orr's  Island,  The'  (novel),  212,  392 

Pearse  Ennis  Art  School  (Eastport),  280-81 

Peary,  Robert  £.,273,  369 

Peirce  Memorial  (Bangor),  137 

Peirce,  Waldo,  103 

Pejepscots,  140 

Pemaquid,  268-69,  270 

Pemaquid  Point,  270 

Pembroke,  238 

Pennell  Institute  (Gray),  343 

Penny  Collection  of  Indian  Relics  (see  Museum 
of  the  Maine  Historical  Society) 

Penobscot,  32,  33,  34,  35,  39,  289 

Penobscot  Indians,  24-26,  192,  295-06,  332 

Penobscot  Monument  (Indian  Island),  296 

Pentagoet  (see  Castine) 

Pentagoet  Indians,  26 

Pepperell  House  (Kittery),  249-50 

Pepperell  House,  William  (Kittery),  250 

Pepperell  Manufacturing  Company  Plant 
(Biddeford),  208 

Pepperell,  William,  37,  249-50 

Pequawket,  384 

Pequawket  Indians,  303,  384 

Perio's  Point  (Jonesport),  233 

Perkins  Cove  (Cape  Neddick),  205 

Perkins  Mill  (Kennebunkport),  254 

Perley  Pines  (Naples),  379 

Perry,  238 

Pestumokadyik  (see  Passamaquoddies) 

Pheasant  hunting,  417 

Phillips,  345 

Phillips  Academy  (Andover,  Mass.),  21,22 

Phillips,  William,  338,  339 

Phillipstown,  338 

Phinney,  John,  Capt.,  341 

Phipps  Point  (W'oolwich),  217 

Phippsburg,  259-61 

Phips,  William,  Sir,  262;  home  of  (Woolwich), 
217 

Picture  Rocks  (see  Clark's  Point) 

Pierce  Place  (Cornish),  367 

Pierpole,  300 

Pike's  Hill  (Norway),  363 

Pilgrims,  30-31,  118,  287 

Pine,  Paper,  and  Power,  50-62  (see  also  Indus- 
try, Commerce) 

'Pine  Period,'  the,  131 

Pine  Point,  256 

Piracy,  173,  234-35,  290 

Piscataqua  Plantation,  249 

Pittsfield,  321 

Pittston,  37,  324,  350 

Pittston  Farm,  324 

Planked  trout,  410 

Pleasant  Lake,  294 

Pleasant  Point,  278 

Plummer  House  (Scarboro),  210 

Plymouth  Colony,  118,  234 


Plymouth  Company,  30,  251 

Plymouth  Patent,  118,  299 

Poisonous  Plants,  xxiii 

Poland,  359,  361-62 

Poland,  Chief,  375,  378 

Poland  Spring,  361,  439 

Poland  Spring  House  (Poland  Spring),  362 

Polis,  Joseph,  26 

Political  Parties  (see  by  name) 

Polk,  James  K.,  123 

Pond  Cove  (South  Portland),  211 

Pond  Cove  Village,  211 

Pondicherry  Mills  (Bridgton),  380 

Ponds:  Cochnewagan,  358;  Long,  425;  Long 
(Belgrade  Lakes),  351;  Massacre,  210; 
Mattanawcook,  294;  Middle  Range,  362; 
Moose,  381;  Round,  421;  Round  (Vinal- 
haven  Island),  398;  Saddleback,  430; 
Sheepscot,  372;  Soldier,  308 

Popham  Beach,  261 

Popham  Colonists,  52,  55 

Popham  Colony,  30,  41;  site  of  (Phippsburg), 
260 

Popham,  George,  217,  260-61,  272 

Popham,  John,  217,  260-61,  272 

Poplar  Tavern  (North  Newry),  365 

Port  Clyde,  272 

Port  Royal,  29 

Portage  Lake,  309 

Porter,  83,  385 

Porter's  Landing,  214 

Portland,  163-90,  375;  commerce,  167-71; 
communication,  164;  cultural  interest, 
169-70;  exploration  and  settlement,  164-66; 
great  fire,  169;  later  history,  168-69;  Revolu- 
tion, 166-67 

Portland  Art  Society,  183 

Portland  City  Hall  (Portland),  172-76 

Portland  Country  Club  (Portland),  212 

Portland  Hebrew  School  (Portland),  81 

Portland  Observatory  (Portland),  188 

Portland  Society  of  Natural  History  (Port- 
land), 15,  19 

Portland  Yacht  Club,  438 

Portsmouth  Conference,  249 

Portsmouth  Navy  Yard  (Kittery),  249 

Potato  Growing  (see  Farming) 

Potato  warehouses:  Ashland,  309;  Caribou, 
245-46;  Dyer  Brook,  293;  Houlton,  154; 
Littleton,  243 

Potter,  Charles,  313 

Pownalborough  Courthouse  (Dresden),  350 

Preble,  Edward,  Commodore,  177 

Preble,  William  Pitt,  184 

Prentiss  House  (Gorham),  383 

Prentiss,  Seargent  Smith,  383 

President's  House  (Brunswick),  145-46 

Presque  Isle,  244-45,  441 

Presque  Isle  Fairgrounds  (Presque  Isle),  245 

Princeton,  241-42 

Pring,  Martin,  Capt.,  29 

Privateering,  397  (see  also  Piracy) 

Prohibition  Movement,  43-44 

'Proprietors  of  the  Kennebec  Purchase,' 
119 

Prospect,  227 

Prospect  Harbor,  276 

Prout's  Neck  (Scarboro  Town),  102,  210,  257 

Prout's  Neck  Bird  Sanctuary  (Scarboro),  210 


472 


Index 


Prout's  Neck  Country  Golf  Course  (Scarboro), 

2IO 

Prout's  Neck  Yacht  Clubhouse  (Scarboro),  210 

Prouty  Tavern  (Bucksport),  274 

Province  of  Lygonia,  165 

Province  of  Maine,  3,  31,  204 

Public  Landing  (Rockland),  223 

Pulpit  Rock  (Casco),  378 

Pulsifer,  Harold  Trowbridge,  IOO 

Purchase,  Thomas,  140 

Putnam,  George  Palmer,  140 

Quakers,  74,  328,  355,  357 
Queen  Anne's  War,  36 
Quoddy  Village,  279 
Quoddy  Village  Dam,  279 

Rabbit  hunting,  416,  417 
Raccoon  hunting,  415-16 
Racial  elements:  Acadians,  74-75;  Dutch,  74; 

English,  75;  Finns,  75;  French,  74;  French 

Canadians,  75;  Germans,  74-75;  Icelanders, 

75;  Irish,  74,  75;  Negroes,  75;  Norwegians, 

75;  Scotch,  75;  Swedes,  75 
Radio  Direction  Finder  Station,  276 
Radio  Station  WCSH  (Portland),  84 
Ragged  Island,  392 
Ragged  Stream,  422 
Raid  of  1750,  401 
Railroads,  xxi 
Randolph,  350 
Rangeley,  345-46,  348-49 
Rangeley  Game  Preserve,  348 
Rangeley  Lakes  Canoe  Trip,  426 
Rangeley  Lakes  Country  Club  (Rangeley),  349 
Rangeley  Lakes  Region,  408 
'Ranger'  (ship),  52,  249 
Rasle,  Sebastian,  33,  80,  82,  331;  memorial  to 

(Norridgewock),  330 
Raymond,  376 
Raymond  Cape  (Casco),  377 
Raymond  Fish  Hatchery  (Raymond),  376 
Readfield,  356 

Rearing  Pool  (Bridgton),  380 
Recreation,   xxii,  418-38;    canoeing,  418-27; 

hiking    and    mountain    climbing,    427-32; 

riding,  432-37;  yachting,  437-38   (see  also 

Sports) 

Red  Beach,  239 
'Red  Bridge'  (ship),  132 
'Red  Jacket'  (ship),  53 
Red  Paint  People,  20-23,  324;  artifacts  of,  23; 

Beothuks,  21;  implements  of,  22;  Red  Paint 

cemeteries,  22 

Reed  House,  David  (Benton),  320^21 
Reed,  Thomas  Brackett,   179;  birthplace  of 

(Portland),  179;  statue  of  (Portland),  189 
Reed,  William,  288-89 
Reenie,  James,  392 
Registry  of  Deeds  (Fryeburg),  368 
Religion,  82-85;  minor  sects,  83-84;  mission- 
aries, 82;  social  service  organization,  84-85 

(see  also  sects  by  name) 
'Remember  the  Maine'  Memorial  (Bangor), 

137 

Republican  Party,  founding  of,  345 
Republicans,  36,  38-39 
Republicans  vs.  Democrats,  378-79 
Revere,  Paul,  291 


Revolution,  37-38,  164,  236,  288-89,  346-47 

Richards,  Laura  E.,  98,  326 

Ricker  Classical  Institute  (Houlton),  154 

Ricker,  Jabez,  361 

Rideout,  Milner,  99 

Riding  (see  Recreation) 

Rigby>  Alexander,  Col.,  165 

Ripogenus  Dam,  314,  422 

Rivers:  Allagash,  421;  Androscoggin,  302, 
386-87;  Aroostook,  244,  246;  Bear,  365; 
Kennebec,  117,  118,  120,  217;  Little  Mada- 
waska,  246;  Little  Ossipee,  384;  Little 
Wilson,  320;  Moose,  425;  Penobscot,  5, 
295,  310;  Pleasant,  320;  Saco,  384;  Songo, 
384;  St.  Croix,  238-39;  St.  John,  5;  Swift, 
301 

Robbinston,  238-39 

Roberts,  Kenneth,  100,  181,  206 

Robinson,  Edwin  Arlington,  99,  326 

Rock  and  Shell  Formation  (Casco),  377 

Rockland,  50,  58,  61,  223-24 

Rockland  Breakwater  (Rockland),  224 

Rockland  Community  Yacht  Club,  223 

Rockport,  224-25,  375 

Rockwood,  324 

Rome,  351 

'Roosevelt'  (ship),  273 

Roosevelt,  Franklin  D.,  summer  home  ot 
(Campobello  Island),  278 

Round  Pond,  270 

Round  Pond  Carry,  420 

Royall  Garrison  House,  site  of  (Falmouth),  213 

Ruggles  House  (Columbia  Falls),  232-33 

Ruggles,  Thomas,  Judge,  232 

Ruined  House  (Georgetown),  263 

Rum  and  Water  Elms  (Albion),  354 

Rumford,  301-02,  441 

Rural  Schools,  81 

Sabbathday  Lake  Village,  360-61 

Saco,  208-09,  255-56 

Saco-Lowell  Company  Plant  (Biddeford),  208 

Saddle  Trip  Out  of  Augusta,  435~36 

Saddle  Trip  Out  of  Bangor,  433-35 

Saddleback  Mountain  Trail,  430 

(Saint,  see  also  under  St.) 

'Saint'  Aspinquid,  205 

Saint  Croix  Gulf  Club  (Calais),  239 

Saint  Luke's  Cathedral  (Portland),  185 

Saint  Sauveur  Mountain,  285 

Salisbury  Cove,  282 

'Sally'  (ship),  264-65 

Salmo  Sebago  (see  Landlocked  salmon) 

Salmon  Falls,  340 

Salmon-fishing  Pool  (Denny sville),  237 

Samoset,  269-70 

Sampson,  C.  A.  L.,  no 

Sandfordites,  84 

Sandy  Point,  273 

Sanford,  338-39 

Sanford  Mills  (Sanford),  339 

Sangerville,  317-18 

Sapling    (see   Unorganized  Township  No.    I, 

Range  7) 

Sarampas  Falls  Camp  Site  (Eustis),  347 
Sargent,  Dudley  Allen,  148 
Sargent  Gymnasium  (Brunswick),  148 
Sargentville,  289 
Sayward  House  (York),  263 


Index 


473 


Scarboro,  210,  256 

Scarboro  Marshes,  209 

'Scarlet  Letter,  The'  (book),  378 

Schoodic  Mountain,  276 

Schoodic  Peninsula  (Winter  Harbor),  276 

Schoodic  Point  (Bar  Harbor),  284 

School  of  Fine  and  Applied  Art  (Portland),  104, 
183-84 

Schooner  Head  (Bar  Harbor),  284 

Scott,  Winfield,  Gen.,  42,  121 

Scottow's  Hill,  209 

Screw  Auger  Falls  (Newry),  365 

Seacoast  Mission  (Bar  Harbor),  85 

Seacoast  Mission  Ship  (Jonesport),  234 

Seal  Harbor,  284 

Searles  Science  Building  (Brunswick),  148 

Searsmont,  371 

Searsport,  227 

Seawall,  286 

Sebago  R.R.  Station  (Standish),  383 

Sebascodegan  (see  Great  Island) 

Sebec,  317 

Sebomook,  324 

Sedgwick,  289 

Sedgwick  Town  Hall  (Sedgwick),  289 

Settlement  of  Saint  Sauveur,  site  of  (Mount 
Desert  Island),  285 

Seven  Pennies  Shelter,  429 

Sewall  House  (Kittery  ),  251 

SewalTs  Bridge  (Kittery),  251 

Seymour,  Richard,  Rev.,  82 

Shakers,  82-83,  360-61 

Shell  Heaps  (Bluehill),  288 

Shell  Heaps  (Damariscotta),  220 

Sheridan,  Phil,  Gen.,  121 

Sherman,  310 

Sherman  Station,  310 

Shiloh,  214-15 

Shiloh  Temple  (Durham),  84 

Ship  Harbor  (Southwest  Harbor),  286 

Shipbuilding:  contract,  52;  early,  51-52; 
period  of  steel  ships,  53;  types  of  construc- 
tion, 52-54 

Shipping,  60,  63,  132,  166-67  (see  also  Com- 
merce, Industry,  Shipbuilding) 

Shirley,  322 

Shirley  Mills,  322 

Shirley,  William,  Gov.,  119 

Shoe  Industry  (see  Industry) 

Shore  Club  (Bar  Harbor),  283 

Sieur  de  Monts  Springs  and  Park  (Bar  Harbor), 
284 

Silver,  n 

Simmons,  Franklin,  103,  186 

Simpson  House  (South  Berwick),  337 

Skid  Hill  (Naples),  379 

Skowhegan,  299 

Slate  Quarrying  (see  Industry) 

Small,  Francis,  367 

Small's  Falls  (Madrid),  345 

Smith  House  (Gorham),  341 

Smith  House  (Windham),  342 

Smith,  John,  Capt.,  30,  50,  268 

Smith,  Samuel  E.,  218-19 

Smith,  Samuel  Francis,  195 

Smith,  Seba,  95,  379 

Smith,  Silas  G.,  340 

Smoking  Pine  (Hallowell),  327 

Smyrna,  293 


Smyrna  Mills,  293 

Snow  Falls  (Paris),  364 

Snow,  Wilbert,  271 

Societies,  historical:  Androscoggin  Historical 
Society  (Auburn),  163;  Bangor  Historical 
Society  (Bangor),  137;  Maine  Historical 
Society  (Portland),  182-83;  Pejepscot  His- 
torical Society  (Brunswick),  145 

Society  for  the  Preservation  of  New  England 
Antiquities,  336-37 

Society  of  Christian  Endeavor,  birthplace  of 
(Portland),  189 

Soil,  8-9 

Solon,  332-33 

Somersetshire  (Province  of  Maine),  31 

Somes  Sound  (Mount  Desert),  285 

Somesville  (see  Mount  Desert) 

Sons  of  Liberty,  252 

Sortwell  House  (Wiscasset),  218 

Sourdnahunk  Depot  Camp,  314 

South  Arm,  303-04 

South  Berwick,  336-38 

South  Bluehill,  288 

South  Bristol,  267-68 

South  Casco,  376-78 

South  China,  355 

South  Freeport,  214 

South  Gouldsboro,  275 

South  Harpswell,  257 

South  Hope,  374 

South  Paris,  363-65 

South  Portland,  211 

South  Windham,  342 

South  Windsor,  373 

Southport,  267 

Sparhawk  House  (Kittery),  250 

'Spectator  Papers'  (book),  214 

Spinney,  Herbert  L.,  home  of  (Bath),  216 

Spite  House  (Rockport),  224-25 

Spofford,  Harriet  Prescott,  98 

Sports:  Canoeing:  418-27;  Fresh-water  fishing: 
xxii,  407-12;  creel  limits,  409;  open  season, 
409;  Hunting:  xxii,  414-18;  Game  areas: 
417-18;  Salt-water  fishing:  xxii,  412-14  (see 
also  Recreation,  Winter  Sports) 

Spouting  Horn  (St.  George),  271-72 

Sprague,  John  Francis,  317 

Spring's  Tavern  (Hiram),  368 

Springvale,  339 

Squa  Pan,  309 

Squando,  208 

Squaw  Mountain  Trail,  430 

Squirrel  Island,  395-96 

St.  Agatha,  247 

St.  Croix,  29 

St.  Croix  River,  3,  5 

St.  David,  247 

St.  Francis,  248,  422 

St.  George,  271-72 

St.  John's  River,  3,  5,  8 

St.  Joseph's  Academy  (Portland),  189-90 

St.  Louis  School  for  Boys  (Dunstan),  209 

St.  Pierre  et  St.  Paul  Church  (Lewiston),  159 

Stacyville  Plantation,  310 

Stair  Falls,  424 

Standish,  383-84 

Standish,  Bert  L.,  321 

Standish,  Miles,  118 

Stanley,  Freeland  O.,  359 


474 


Index 


Stanley  Steamer,  359 

Staples  Inn  (Old  Orchard  Beach),  256 

Starrett,   Leroy   S.,   355;   birthplace,    site   of 

(China),  355 
State   College  of  Agriculture   and   Mechanic 

Arts  (Orono),  296-97 
State    Fish    and    Game    Department    Camp 

(Beddington),  306 
State    fish     hatcheries:    Caribou,    246;    East 

Orland,   275;   Princeton,   242;    Unorganized 

Township,  No.  2,  Range  6,  323 
State  Game  Preserve  (see  Ganeston  Park) 
State  Hospital  (Augusta),  122 
State  House  (Augusta),  127 
State  Interdenominational  Commission,  84 
State  name,  3 

State  of  Maine  Building  (Poland  Springs),  362 
State  Reformatory  for  Men  (South  Windham), 

342 
State  Reformatory  for  Women  (Skowhegan), 

299 

State  Street  (Portland),  184 
State  Street  Hospital  (Portland),  185 
Steamship  Lines,  73 
Stella  Maris  Home  (Biddeford),  255 
Stephens,  C.  A.,  96 
Stephens  High  School  (Rumford),  301 
Stephenson  Tavern  (Belfast),  227  ' 

Steuben,  231 

Stevens,  Lillian  M.  N.,  317 
Stinson  Farm  House  (Woolwick),  262 
Stockton  Springs,  227,  273 
Stone  and  Allied  Industries  (see  Industry) 
Stone  House  (Bath),  216 
Stone  Quarry  (Jay),  344 
Stone  Store  (Sullivan),  231 
Stoneham,  370 
Stonington,  289,  399 

Storer  Garrison  House,  Joseph  (Wells),  206 
Storer  House  (Kennebunk),  206 
Storer-Mussey  House  (Portland),  184 
Stowe,  Harriet  Beecher,  97,  145,  148;  house  of 

(Brunswick),  145 
Strong,  345 

Sugar  Loaves,  261,  399 
Sullivan,  231 

Summer  Surveying  School  (East  Machias),  237 
Surry,  287 

Surry  Theater  (Surry),  287 
Swan  Island,  401 
Swan,  James,  401 
Sweat  Mansion  (Portland),  183-84 
Sweat  Museum  (Portland),  104,  183 
Swedish  immigration,  45 
Symphony  House  (Bangor),  137 

Tarantines,  25 

Tarkington  Art  Collection  (Kennebunkport), 

101,  104 

Tarkington,  Booth,  100 
'Tarranteens'  (see  Tarantines) 
Tate,  George,  190;  house  of  (Portland),  190 
Taylor  House  (Kennebunk),  207 
'Tea  Party,'  252 
Tefft,  Charles  E.,  136,  137 
Telos  Lake  Dam  and  Canal,  423 
Tenant's  Harbor,  271 
Textiles  (see  Industry) 
Thaxter,  Celia,  grave  of  (Kittery),  250 


Theater,  105 

'Thinks-I-to-Myself  (ship),  132 

Thomas,  Richard,  grave  of  (Winslow),  329 

Thomas,  William  W.,  Jr.,  45 

Thomaston,  222-23 

Thoreau,  Henry  David,  97,  133,  312-13 

Thoreau  Spring,  429 

Thorndike,  Israel,  353-54 

Thornton  Academy  (Saco),  209 

Thornton  Heights  (South  Portland),  211 

Thunder  Hole  (Bar  Harbor),  284 

Thuya  Lodge  (Asticou),  284 

Ticonic  Falls,  197,  329 

Tidal    Power    Development    Project    Model 

(Quoddy  Village),  279 
Tide  Mill  (Bath),  259 
Tilbury  Town  (poem),  326 
Togus    (see    U.S.    Veterans'    Administration 

Facility) 

Tomah  Stream,  242 

Tomhegan,  Unorganized  Township  of,  324 
Topsfield,  242 
Topsham,  326 
Town  government,  35,  49 
Township  No.  i,  Range  7,  310 
Township  No.  3,  Range  5,  325 
Township  C,  303-04 
Traffic  Regulations,  xxi-xxii 
'Tragedies  of  the  Wilderness'  (book),  401 
Trans-Atlantic  Radiophone  Receiving  Station 

(Houlton),  154 
Trans-Atlantic  Receiving  Station   (Houlton), 

293 
Transportation,  68-73;   airports,   73;  earliest 

recorded,  68;  postal  service,  70;  railroad,  71; 

recent  forms  of,  73;  stagecoach  lines,  70-71; 

Steamboat,  72,  73,  120 
Trask,  'Samuel,  265 
Treasure  hunting  (Jewell  Island),  212  (see  also 

Kidd,  William) 
Treat's  Island,  277-78 
Tremont,  286 
Trescott,  277 

Triborough  Bridge  (Stonington),  399 
Tripp  Lake,  359 
Trowbridge,  Harold,  100 
Troy,  354 
True,  Eliza  S.,  95 

Tucker  Castle  (see  Tucker  Mansion) 
Tucker  Mansion  (Wiscasset),  219 
Tuna  Fishing,  413-14 
Turner,  343~44 
Turner  Center,  343 
Twide,  Richard,  270 
Two  Lights,  211 
Two  Trails,  384 
Tyng,  Edward,  37 
Tyng,  William,  37 

Underwood  Spring  (Falmouth  Foreside),  213 
Union    Water-Power     Company     (Lewiston- 

Auburn),  157 
United  Society  of  Believers  in  Christ's  Second 

Appearing  (see  Shakers) 
United  States  Arsenal  (Augusta),  120 
United    States    Customs    and    Immigration 

Station  (Arnold  Pond),  348 
United  States  Customs  Office  (Moose  River), 

335 


Index 


475 


United  States  Hatchery  and  Aquarium  (Booth- 
bay  Harbor),  267 
United  States  Immigration  Station  (Jackman 

Plantation),  334 

United  States  Lighthouse  Reservation  (Rock- 
land),  223 

United  States  Route  I,  201 
United  States  Veterans'  Administration  Facil- 
ity (Augusta),  373 
Unity,  354 

University  of  Maine  (Orono),  81,  296-97 
Unorganized  Township  No.  I,  Range  7,  323 
Unorganized  Township  No.  I,  Range  9,  312 
Unorganized  Township  No.  2,  Range  6,  323 
Unorganized  Township  No.  2,  Range  9,  312 
Unorganized  Township  No.  3,  Range  12,  312 
Upjohn,  Richard,  136,  137 
Upper  Gloucester,  343 
Upton,  366 

Vallee,  Rudy,  369,  383 

Valley  House  (Elaine),  244 

Van  Buren,  246-47 

Vanceboro,  152 

Vanderbilt,  Mary  S.,  grave  of  (Etna),  298 

Vannah,  Kate  (Letitia  Katherine),  326 

Vassalborough,  328 

Vaughan  Mansion  (Hallowell),  327 

Veazie,  297 

Veazie  Banks  vs.  Fenno,  297 

Veazie  House  (Bangor),  138 

Veazie,  Samuel,  Gen.,  138,  297 

Verona,  273 

'Village,  The'  (poem),  127 

Vinal,  Harold,  100,  398 

Vinalhaven,  224,  398 

Vinalhaven  granite,  398 

Vines,  Richard,  208 

'Virginia'  (ship),  52,  59 

von  Steuben,  Baron,  231 

Waban  Legend,  332 

Wadsworth  Hall  (Hiram),  367-68 

Wadsworth,  Henry,  177 

Wadsworth-Longfellow  House  (Portland),  182 

Wadsworth,  Peleg,  367 

Waite,  242 

Waldo-Hancock  Suspension  Bridge,  227,  273 

Waldo  Patent,  31,  220,  222,  371  (see  also 
Muscongus  Grant) 

Waldo,  Samuel,  Gen.,  31,  74,  220,  222 

Waldoboro,  220 

Walker  Art  Galley  (Brunswick),  147-48 

Walker,  John,  Capt,  29 

Wallagrass,  308 

Wallagrass  Plantation,  308 

Walpole,  267-68 

Waltham  Watch  Company,  139 

Wapsaconhagan  Stream,  241 

War  of  1812,  39-40,  63,  131 

Ward,  Artemus,  95,  299,  363;  home  of  (Water- 
ford),  363 

Warren,  221-22 

Wrarren,  Fiske,  382 

Warren  Paper  Company  Mills  (Westbrook), 
382 

Washburn  Family,  344 

Washbum  Homestead  (Livermore),  344 

Washington  Academy  (East  Machias),  237 


Wassataquoik  Stream,  424 

Wassookeag  School  (Dexter),  321 

Watawasa,  Princess,  296 

Waterboro,  366 

Water  Carnival  (Kennebunkport),  254 

Waterfront  (Portland),  181 

Water-power  legislation,  47 

Water  Resources,  9 

Waterville,  as  part  of  Winslpw,  192;  education 
and  culture,  194-95;  foreign  elements,  191- 
92;  industry,  191,  194;  transportation  in, 
194;  winter  sports  in,  441 

Waterville  College  (see  Colby  College) 

Waterways,  xxi 

Watt's  Garrison  (Georgetown),  262-63 

Wawenock  Indians,  265 

Way  mouth,  George,  Capt.,  29,  213,  271,  272 

Wayne,  358 

Weary  Club  (Norway),  362 

Webb,  Nathan,  185 

Webster-Ashburton  Treaty,  42 

Webster,  Daniel,  368-69 

Webster  Lake  Dam,  423 

Wedding  Cake  House  (Kennebunk),  207-08 

Wells,  205-06 

Wesley,  306 

West  Baldwin,  367 

West  Enfield,  294-95 

West  Gorham,  383 

West  Hampden,  353 

West  Harpswell,  257 

West  Outlet,  324 

West  Paris,  364-65 

West  Pembroke,  238 

West  Quoddy  Head,  277 

West  Rockport,  375 

Westbrook,  382-83 

Westbrook  Junior  College  for  Women  (Port- 
land), 81-82 

Western  Promenade  (Portland),  189 

Western  State  Normal  School  (Gorham),  341 

Western,  Thomas,  119 

Westford  Hill  (Hodgdon),  243 

Weston,  243 

Weston,  Hannah,  234;  grave  of  (Jonesboro),  234 

Weston,  John  Colby,  317 

Whaleboats,  393 

Wheeler  House  (Castine),  291 

Wheelwright,  John,  Rev.,  205-06 

Whidden,  James,  Capt.,  401 

Whipping  Tree  (Alfred),  339 

White  House  (Belfast),  226 

White  Mountains  National  Forest,  370 

Whitefield,  373-74 

Whitefield  Academy  and  Orphan  Asylum 
(Whitefield),  374 

Whitefield,  George,  36 

White's  Bridge  (Windham),  375 

Whiting,  237 

Whiting  House  (Castine),  291 

Whitney  Brook,  244 

Whitney  House  (Castine),  292 

Whitneyville,  234 

Whittier,  John  Greenleaf,  97,  210,  322,  392 

Wiggin,  Kate  Douglas,  98,  338;  house  of  (Bux* 
ton),  340;  grave  of  (Buxton),  341 

Wilcox  House  (York),  252 

Wild  Animals,  xxiii  (see  also  Sports) 

Willett,  Thomas,  Capt.,  118 


476 


Index 


'William  P.  Frye'  (ship),  53 

Williams,  Ben  Ames,  100,  371 

Williams  House,  Reuel  (Augusta),  122-23 

Williams,  Paul,  397 

Willis,  Nathaniel,  95-96,  176 

Willis,  Nathaniel  Parker,  96,  176;  birthplace  of 

(Portland),  176 
Willoughby,  Charles,  128 
Willoughby's  'Antiquities'  (book),  22 
Wilson,  J.  Howard,  291 
Wilson,  Thomas,  300 
Wilton,  301,  344 
Windham,  342,  375-76 
Windsor,  120,  373 
Winn,  294 
Winnecook,  321 
Winnegance,  259 
Winslow,  328 

Winslow,  Edward,  Gov.,  118 
Winslow,  John,  118,  331 
Winter  Carnival  (Rumford),  302 
Winter  Harbor,  275-76 
Winter,  John,  52 
Winter  Sports:  areas,  440-41;  dog-sled  racing, 

439-40;  harness  racing,  439;  iceboats,  439; 

Winter  Carnival  (Rumford),  302 
Winterpprt,  228 
Winterville  Plantation,  309 
Winthrop,  357 

Winthrop  Hall  (Brunswick),  146 
Wiscasset,  218-19 
Witch's  Grave  (York),  252 
Women's  suffrage,  396 
Wonsqueak  Stream,  276 
Wood  House  (Wiscasset),  218 


Wood,  Madam  (see  Barrel,  Sally  Sayward) 

Woodbridge  House  (York),  252 

Woodcock  hunting,  416 

Woodland,  241 

Woodman,  Horace,  208 

Woodstock,  365 

Woolwich,  217 

Woolwich  Drawbridge,  262 

Worster  House  (Hallowell),  327 

Wreck  of  the  Hesperus  (poem),  388 

Wrights  Lookout  (Machiasport),  236 

Wyman  Dam  (Bingham),  333 

'Wyoming'  (ship),  53 

Yachting  (see  Recreation) 

Yankee  humor,  78 

Yarmouth,  213,  393-94 

York,  32,  204-05,  251-53 

York  Beach,  253 

York  Corner,  204 

York  Cotton  Factory  Company,  252 

York  Country  Club  (York),  251 

York  Gaol  (York),  252 

York  Harbor,  253 

York  Manufacturing  Company  Plant  (Bidde- 
ford),  208 

York  Town  Hall  (York),  2^2 

Yorkshire,  County  of,  32 

Young  Men's  Christian  Association  Camp 
(Winthrop),  357 

Young  People's  Society  of  Christian  Endeavor, 
84 

Young  Women's  Christian  Association,  Inter- 
national Institute  of,  85 

Youth's  Companion  (periodical),  95-96