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MANUAL 


FARRIERS.  HORSESHOERS,  SADDLERS 
AND  WAGONERS  OR  TEAMSTERS 


1914 


GIFT  OF 


WAR  DEPARTMENT 
OFFICE  OF  THE  CHIEF  OF  STAFF 


MANUAL 


FOR 


Farriers,  Horseshoers,  Saddlers 
and  Wagoners  or  Teamsters 


1914 


WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE 
1915 


\ 


WAR  DEPARTMENT, 
Document  No.  486. 

OFFICE  OF  THE  CHIEF  OF  STAFF. 


WAR  DEPARTMENT, 
OFFICE  OF  THE  CHIEF  OF  STAFF, 

December  16,  1914. 

The  following  instructions  in  elementary  duties  of  the  farrier, 
horseshoer,  saddler,  and  wagoner  or  teamster,  compiled  in  the 
Division  of  Militia  Affairs,  under  the  direction  of  Brig.  Gen.  Albert 
L.  Mills,  General  Staff,  Chief,  Division  of  Militia  Affairs,  is  ap- 
proved and  herewith  published  for  the  information  of  the  Organized 
Militia. 

It  is  believed  that  these  instructions  are  all  that  need  be  mas- 
tered to  dp  in  a  satisfactory  manner  the  work  ordinarily  required. 
For  situations  not  covered  within,  the  services  of  a  veterinarian  or 
those  especially  skilled  in  the  respective  trades  of  the  horseshoer, 
saddler,  and  wheelwright  must  be  secured. 
By  order  of  the  Secretary  of  War: 

H.  L.  SCOTT, 
Brigadier  General,  Chief  of  Staff. 


313491 


CONTENTS. 


Pago. 

Preface 

General  instructions  for  handling  animals Chapter  I 

Vices 14 

Training  horses 17 

Grooming 20 

Feeding . . ..  21 

Watering 1 23 

Shelter 24 

Farrier Chapter  II 

General  instructions 25 

Detecting  disease 25 

Restraining  animals 28 

Table  of  weights  and  measures 29 

Disinfectants 33 

Equipment 33 

Veterinarians 34 

Pannier 34 

Farrier 38 

Hprseshoers'  emergency 38 

Medicines 36,  43 

Diseases,  internal 46 

Diseases,  external 49 

Injuries 53 

Wounds 54 

Bruises 55 

Saddle  galls 55 

Wagoner  or  teamster Chapter  III 

General  instructions 57 

Feeding  and  watering 57 

Grooming 57 

Classes  of  transportation 58 

Classes  of  harness 66 

Harness 68 

Wagon,  care  of 68 

Routine  of  teamsters'  duties 74 

Saddler Chapter  IV 

Harness  and  mounted  equipment 75 

5 


6  CONTENTS. 

Saddler— Continued.  Page. 

Harness  fitting 78 

Harness,  care  of 79 

Harness  repairs 80 

Tools,  ordnance 83 

Materials 85 

Tools,  quartermaster 90,  93 

Packing Chapter  V 

Uses  of  pack  mule 96 

Aparejo  and  accessories 96 

Placing  aparejo 99 

Lashing  packs 101 

Blacksmiths'  kit 103 

Cargador's  kit 103 

Horseshoer Chapter  VI 

* '  The  Army  Horseshoer  " 104 

Purpose  of  shoeing 104 

Frequency 105 

Shoeing  outfits 105 

Ordnance 105 

Description  of  tools 112 

Quartermaster 

Blacksmith  and  farrier's  kit 114 

Emergency  horseshoer's  equipment 114 

Shoes,  allowance 116 

Kinds 116 

Nails 116 

Shoeing. 

Preparing  hoof 116 

Preparing  shoe 116 

Nailing 119 

Clips 120 

To  tighten  shoe 

To  remove  shoe 120 


MANUAL  FOR  FARRIERS,  HORSESHOERS,  SAD- 
DLERS, AND  WAGONERS  OR  TEAMSTERS. 


PREFACE. 

This  manual  is  prepared  as  a  guide  for  those  who  may  be  entrusted 
with  Government  animals  but  who  may  not  have  an  opportunity 
to  refer  to  professionals  the  many  perplexing  questions  which  arise 
in  actual  service. 

Many  authorities  have  been  consulted  and  the  ideas  gleaned 
therefrom  have  been  incorporated  where  applicable  to  a  pamphlet 
of  this  character. 

The  subject  of  duties  of  the  farrier  has  been  prepared  principally 
from  notes  by  Dr.  Ingild  Hansen,  Veterinarian,  Quartermaster 
Corps. 

Reference  is  made  in  several  places  within  to  " Field  service" 
and  equipments  "A",  "B,"  and  "C,"  and  to  "Combat  train/' 
"Field  train,"  "Baggage  section,"  and  "Ration  section,"  which 
the  following  will  explain: 

Field  service  includes  service  in  any  of  the  following  cases:  In 
campaign,  simulated  campaign,  or  on  the  march.  In  mobiliza- 
tion, concentration,  instruction,  or  maneuver  camps. 

Equipment  A,  as  referred  to  herein,  is  the  equipment  for  use  in 
campaign,  simulated  campaign,  or  on  the  march,  and  includes  the 
articles  then  worn  on  the  person,  carried  on  horse  or  pack  mule, 
and  transported  in  the  wagons  of  combat  trains  and  in  the  baggage 
section  of  field  trains. 

Equipment  B,  as  referred  to  herein,  is  the  equipment  which,  in 
addition  to  equipment  A,  is  prescribed  for  the  use  of  troops  in 
mobilization,  concentration,  instruction,  or  maneuver  camps,  and 
during  such  pauses  in  operations  against  an  enemy  as  permit  of  the 
better  care  of  troops . 


sary  for  field  service,  and  is  therefore  the  sum  of  equipment  A  plus 
equipment  B. 

Articles  distinctively  for  winter  use  do  not  form  a  part  of  the 
field  equipment  unless  specially  ordered  by  proper  authority. 


8  PREFACE. 

EXTRACTS  FROM  FIELD  SERVICE  REGULATIONS. 

274 .  Trains . — Transportation  attached  to  organizations  is  grouped 
under  the  following  heads,  i.  e.: 

(a)  The  trains  assigned  to  organizations  smaller  than  a  brigade 
designated  combat  and  field  trains,  respectively. 

(6)  The  trains  assigned  to  divisions,  designated  ammunition, 
supply,  sanitary,  and  engineer  trains,  respectively. 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing  there  are  ammunition,  supply,  sani- 
tary, and  engineer  columns  which  are  attached  to  and  belong  to 
the  advance  section  of  the  line  of  communications.  (See  par.  279). 

275.  Combat    trains. — Combat    trains    include    all    personnel, 
vehicles,  and  animals  attached  to  organizations  for  transporting 
ammunition  reserve  and  special  equipment  required  during  com- 
bat, including  the  mule  or  cart  carrying  sanitary  first  aid  equip- 
ment.    To  them  also  are  attached  those  vehicles  required  for  the 
technical  service  of  engineers  and  signal  troops.     Combat  trains 
remain  at  all  times  with  the  unit  to  which  attached  and  follow  it 
into  action.     In  the  cavalry  and  field  artillery  it  may  be  advisable 
to  temporarily  separate  combat  trains  from  the  troops. 

276.  Field  trains. — Field  trains  include  all  personnel,  vehicles, 
and  animals  attached  to  organizations  or  headquarters  for  the 
transportation  of  the  authorized  allowance  of  baggage,  rations,  and 
grain,    and   include   rolling   kitchens,    if   supplied.     Wagons   of 
sutlers,  correspondents,  etc.,  accompanying  a  field  force  by  proper 
authority  are  assigned  to  the  field  train  of  the  organization  to  which 
their  owners  are  attached.     On  the  march  the  headquarters  wagons 
of  brigades  and  divisions  are  generally  attached  to  some  regimental 
field  train. 

Field  trains  are  assigned  to  regiments  and  independent  battalions 
and  are  habitually  divided  into  two  sections:  (1)  A  baggage  section 
carrying  baggage;  and  (2)  a  ration  section  carrying  rations  and  grain 
exclusively,  and  including  rolling  kitchen,  if  supplied. 

For  transportation  of  baggage  each  organization  is  assigned  its 
proportionate  space  on  the  vehicles  of  the  baggage  section. 

277.  When  an  organization  is  operating  independently,  the  field 
trains  are  under  the  direct  control  of  the  organization  commander. 
When  organizations  are  not  operating  independently,  field  trains 
are  ordinarily  ordered  to  be  grouped  by  the  division  commander 
and  the  senior  line  officer  present  with  the  train  assumes  command 
and  moves  it  as  directed  by  the  superior  authority.     When  the 
field  trains  are  ordered  grouped  with  the  divisional  train  they  are, 
for  the  time  being,  under  the  orders  of  the  commander  of  trains. 

The  field  trains  are  not  again  placed  at  the  disposition  of  the 
organization  until  so  ordered  by  the  division  commander.  During 


PREFACE.  9 

combat  the  division  commander  holds  the  grouped  trains  well  to 
the  rear,  thus  relieving  the  roads  of  unnecessary  vehicles. 

In  the  late  afternoon,  or  at  the  end  of  a  march  or  close  of  a  combat, 
the  division  commander  directs  the  field  trains  to  move  up  imme- 
diately in  rear  of  the  troops,  and  informs  the  commanding  officers 
of  organizations  that  their  baggage  sections  and  one  day's  rations 
from  their  ration  sections  have  been  ordered  to  be  at  a  designated 
place.  The  organization  commander  at  once  sends  an  orderly  to 
the  designated  place  to  conduct  the  vehicles  to  the  organization. 
As  soon  as  practicable  after  the  arrival  in  camp  of  the  ration  vehicles 
they  are  unloaded,  and,  without  delay,  rejoin  the  grouped  portions 
of  the  ration  vehicles.  The  division  commander  usually  returns 
the  baggage  sections  to  the  same  place  early  the  following  morning. 


CHAPTER  I. 


GENERAL    INSTRUCTIONS   FOR    HANDLING 
ANIMALS. 

Never  threaten,  strike,  or  otherwise  abuse  a  horse.  Never  take 
a  rapid  gait  until  horse  is  warmed  up  by  gentle  exercise.  Never 
put  up  an  animal  in  heated  condition;  walk  him  until  cool  or 
throw  a  blanket  over  him  and  rub  his  legs.  If  wet,  rub  with  straw 
until  hair  is  dry. 

In  approaching  an  animal  be  sure  he  sees  you.  Therefore,  go 
up  to  him  from  the  front  if  practicable;  if  necessary  to  approach 
him  from  the  rear,  especially  if  in  a  stall,  speak  to  him  before 
nearing  him.  Command  him  firmly  to  " stand  over,"  go  up  to  his 
head  on  the  left  side,  and  pat  on  the  neck. 

An  animal  knows  better  how  to  meet  an  emergency  than  does  a 
man;  he  does  it  instinctively;  if  he  gets  scared  there  is,  almost 
without  exception,  a  good  reason  for  it.  Therefore,  do  not  punish 
a  horse  for  getting  scared,  and  never  at  all  except  for  well  deter- 
mined viciousness,  and  then  only  at  the  very  time  of  commission 
of  the  offense.  Many  times  fright  is  due  to  defective  vision,  and 
if  a  horse  is  punished  every  time  he  thinks  he  sees  something 
dangerous,  he  will  grow  to  believe  in  his  eyes,  and  will  get  scared 
at  almost  everything.  If  on  the  other  hand  he  is  petted  when 
scared,  he  will  see  that  there  is  nothing  going  to  hurt  him. 

The  old  rule  "an  ounce  of  prevention  is  worth  a  pound  of  cure" 
is  particularly  applicable  to  the  animals  and  the  equipment  in  the 
field.  An  army  can  not  afford  to  carry  the  pound  of  cure,  but  it 
can  transport  the  ounce  of  prevention  mostly  in  the  wits  and  the 
fingers  of  the  farrier,  saddler,  horseshoer,  rider,  and  the  driver. 

Never  feed  or  water  an  animal  when  he  is  warm  unless  he  is  to 
move  off  again  and  at  once — hay  will  do  no  harm.  If  the  journey 
or  exercise  is  ended,  sponging  out  the  mouth  and  nostrils  give 
considerable  relief. 

Never  kick  an  animal  and  never  strike  one  except  with  a  whip 
and  immediately  after  he  misbehaves.  Never  strike  an  animal 
about  the  head. 

The  sheath  should  be  washed  at  least  once  a  month — better  once 
a  week — with  warm  water  and  castile  soap. 

The  fetlock  should  never  be  trimmed;  to  do  so  may  lead  to  the 
contraction  of  a  disease  known  as  "scratches,"  unless  the  tender 
skin  at  the  back  of  the  pastern  can  be  kept  clean  and  dry,  which 
generally  is  not  practicable  in  the  field. 
10 


GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  HANDLING  ANIMALS.       11 


PLATE  I.— Points  of  the  horse. 


Head. 

1,  Muzzle. 

2,  Nostril. 

3,  Forehead. 

4,  Jaw. 

5,  Poll. 

Neck. 

6,  6,  Crest. 

7,  Throttle  or  windpipe. 

Fore  quarter. 

8,  8,  Shoulder  blade. 

9,  Point  of  shoulder. 
10,  Bosom  or  breast. 
11, 11,  True  arm. 

12,  Elbow. 

13,  Forearm  (arm). 

14,  Knee. 

15,  Cannon  bone. 


16,  Back  sinew. 

17,  Fetlock     or     pastern 

joint. 

18,  Coronet. 

19,  Hoof  or  foot. 

20,  Heel. 

Body  or  middle  piece. 

21,  Withers. 

22,  Back. 

23,  23,  Ribs  (forming  to- 

gether the  barrel  or 
chest). 

24,  24,  The  circumference 

of  the  chest  at  this 
point,  called  the 
girth. 

25,  The  loins. 

26,  The  croup. 

27,  The  hip. 

28,  The  flank. 


29,  Sheath. 

30,  The  root  of  the  dock  or 

tail. 

Hind  quarter. 

31,  The  hip  joint,  round, 

or  whirlbone. 

32,  The  stifle  joint. 

33,  33,  Lower  thigh  or  gas- 

kin. 

34,  The  quarters. 

35,  The  hock. 

36,  The  point  of  the  hock. 

37,  The  curb  place. 

38,  The  cannon  bone. 

39,  The  back  sinew. 

40,  Pastern    or    ietlock 

joint. 

41,  Coronet. 

42,  Hoof  or  foot. 

43,  Heel. 

44,  Spavin  place. 


12          GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  HANDLING  ANIMALS. 

Animals  are  tied  either  to  picket  line  or  wagon,  or  are  tethered 
out  with  a  lariat,  or  they  may  be  herded. 

There  are  two  sorts  of  picket  lines  used — high  and  low.  The 
low  or  ground  picket  line  has  been  almost  entirely  discarded.  The 
high  picket  line  is  stretched  as  tight  as  practicable  at  about  4J 
feet  from  the  ground,  at  the  posts  or  forks  placed  about  30  yards 
apart.  If  wagons  are  parked  on  line  the  picket  line  may  be  run 
over  every  fifth  wagon,  which  is  run  to  the  front  for  that  purpose; 
loaded  wagons  should  be  used  at  the  ends. 

About  1J  yards  of  picket  line  are  allowed  per  animal .  The  animals 
are  tied  on  both  sides  of  the  line  with  shank  just  long  enough  for 
the  animal  to  eat  off  the  ground.  If  tied  with  too  long  a  shank, 
animals  are  liable  to  get  their  forelegs  over  and  thus  cause  rope 
burns,  which  are  very  difficult  to  cure  and  always  leave  a  blemish. 

Wagons  are  usually  parked  (that  is,  put  in  line)  alongside  each 
other  and  the  picket  line  stretched  parallel  to  the  line  of  wagons 
and  about  10  paces  in  front  of  the  tongues  or  poles.  The  wagons 
are  ordinarily  spaced — if  animals  are  tied  to  picket  line — with  an 
interval  of  about  a  yard  between  hubs.  When  animals  are  tied 
to  the  wagon  tongue  (two  on  each  side),  the  distance  between  hubs 
should  be  about  7  yards. 

The  feed  box  should  be  washed  out  once  a  week,  care  being 
taken  to  get  into  the  corners. 

Nose  bags  should  be  cleaned  frequently,  care  being  taken  to  get 
into  the  cracks  and  to  expose  the  inside  to  rays  of  the  sun. 

If  weather  is  cold,  before  putting  the  bridle  on,  the  bit  should 
be  warmed  by  holding  in  the  hand  or  by  blowing  the  breath  on  it. 

To  make  a  halter  of  rope:  Tie  a  simple  knot  at  one  extreme  end; 
draw  tight.  At  about  12  inches  from  this  knot  tie  another  simple 
knot  loosely,  then  bring  the  long  end  back  through  this  last  knot, 
leaving  a  loop  of  about  6  inches,  and  draw  the  knot  tight.  Now, 
with  the  long  end  tie  a  simple  knot  around  the  short  end  imme- 
diately against  the  last  knot;  this  should  make  the  loop  non- 
slipping.  Now,  at  about  3  feet  (depending  on  the  length  of  the 
horse's  head)  tie  a  simple  knot  loosely,  and  insert  into  it  the  knot 
at  the  extreme  end.  Then  run  the  long  end  through  the  6-inch 
loop  and  make  it  fast  to  the  loop  by  a  simple  knot  about  6  inches 
(same  distance  as  the  loop  is  long)  from  the  knot  on  the  extreme 
end.  To  make  the  throat  latch:  Take  a  length  of  rope  which  will 
go  around  the  head  at  the  foretop  and  throat.  Weave  the  two 
ends,  one  on  each  side,  into  the  head  rope  of  the  halter  at  points 
2  inches  below  the  ears.  Cut  this  rope  at  about  10  inches  from  the 
end  on  the  left  side. 

To  make  a  rope  bridle:  Double  the  rope  (which  should  be  about 
14  to  16  feet  long),  make  a  loop  by  tying  a  tight,  simple  overhand 


GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  HANDLING  ANIMALS,       13 


PLATE  II.— Skeleton  of  tne  horse. 


A,  Molar  teeth. 

B  H,  Canine  or  tush. 

C  I,  Incisors. 

E,  Atlas. 

G,  Orbit. 

M,  Cariniform  cartilage. 

N,  Ensiform  cartilage. 

0,  Coracoid     process     of 

scapula. 
P,  Spine. 

g,  Cartilage. 
,  Trochanter  major. 
S,  Subtrochanterian  crest. 
T,  Trochlea. 
U,  External  condyle. 
V,  Patella. 
W,  Hock  joint. 

1,  Cranium. 

2,  Lower  jaw. 

3,  Cervical  vertebrae. 


4,  4,  Dorsal  vertebras. 

5,  5,  Lumbar  vertebrae. 

6,  6,  Sacrum. 

7,  7,  Coccygeal  vertebras. 

8,  Sternum. 

9,  9,  True  ribs. 

10. 10,  Cartilages   of   true 
ribs. 

11. 11,  False  ribs. 

12. 12,  Cartilages   of  false 
ribs. 

13,  Scapula. 

14,  Humerus. 

15,  Radius. 

16,  Elbow. 

17,  Ospisiforme. 

18, 19,  20,  21, 22, 23,  Carpal 
bones. 

24,  Large metacarpal  bone. 

25,  Outer  small  metacar- 

pal bone. 


26,  Inner  small  metacar- 

pal bone. 

27,  28,  Sesamoid  bones. 

29,  Os  suffraginis. 

30,  Os  coronas. 

31,  Ospedis. 

32,  Wing    of    the    pedal 

bone. 

33,  34,  35,  36,  Os  innomi- 

natum. 

37,  Femur. 

38,  Tibia. 

39,  Oscalcis. 

40,  Astragalus. 

41, 42, 43, 44,  Tarsal  bones. 

45,  Large  metatarsal  bone. 

46,  Outer  small  metatarsal 

bone. 

47,  Inner  small  metatarsal 

bone. 


14       GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  HANDLING  ANIMALS. 

knot,  including  both  parts,  about  9  inches  from  the  middle  point. 
Tie  another  simple  knot  about  9  inches  above  the  first  knot,  but 
leave  it  loose — to  be  drawn  over  the  foretop.  Place  the  loop  in 
the  horse's  mouth  over  the  upper  jaw,  thus  bringing  the  first  knot 
on  the  nose.  Carry  the  rope  up  to  the  foretop,  placing  the  foretop 
through  the  second  knot  and  drawing  the  knot  tight  upon  it. 
Give  the  doubled  rope  a  couple  of  twists,  till  the  twists  reach 
behind  the  ears;  then  carry  one  part  down  on  each  side  the  throat 
and  twist  together  the  two  parts  under  the  throat  until  the  twist 
reaches  a  point  about  2  inches  above  the  upper  edge  of  the  mouth 
(i.  e.,  where  the  loop  of  the  rope  emerges  from  the  mouth);  pass 
one  part  on  each  side,  from  rear  to  front,  between  the  face  and 
the  loop  in  the  mouth  and  carry  the  parts  (the  reins)  back  on  the 
neck  and  tie  together  evenly. 

VICES. 

While  inspection  at  the  time  of  purchase  is  supposed  to  prevent 
the  acquisition  of  unsuitable  animals,  there  will  always  be  found  a 
few  horses  and  mules  which  have  bad  habits  or  are  defective. 
Every  man  charged  with  the  duty  of  working  or  caring  for  animals 
should  learn  to  know  the  peculiarities,  both  of  temperament  and  of 
'  physique,  of  those  in  his  charge.  Animals  ordinarily  meet  with 
so  little  kindness  that  it  is  easy  to  gain  their  confidence  and  affec- 
tion, and  once  these  are  gained  they  can  be  coaxed  to  do  most  any- 
thing— certainly  everything  required  in  ordinary  work. 

If  an  examination  shows  the  horse  to  be  nervous  and  excitable, 
the  attendant's  actions  and  words  should  be  calm  and  soothing.  If, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  animal  is  slow  and  sluggish,  his  commands 
should  be  sharp  and  his  actions  more  severe. 

A  man  who  has  a  horse  with  broken  wind  will  not  expect  the  same 
staying  qualities  as  he  would  of  a  horse  with  strong  lungs.  (A 
broken-winded  horse  can  be  detected  by  the  double  effort  made  in 
expiration.)  If  his  horse  is  a  "roarer"  (one  with  one  side  of  the 
larynx  throat  paralyzed),  he  will  not  be  surprised  when  the  horse 
goes  along  wheezing.  If  a  horse  is  a  kicker  or  biter,  the  attendant 
will  govern  himself  accordingly. 

Much  is  gained  by  learning  these  individual  peculiarities.  For 
example,  a  mare  used  for  racing  would  often  be  left  at  the  starting 
point;  by  study  it  was  found  that  she  always  propped  her  legs  stiff 
and  turned  about  half  way  to  the  left,  so  as  to  face  the  inside.  It 
was  soon  discovered  that  in  holding  her  (for  she  was  nervous)  at  the 
start  she  had  invariably  been  held  by  an  attendant  on  the  left  side. 
Thereafter  the  attendant  was  made  to  hold  her  on  the  right  side 
and  she  never  "got  left  at  the  (starting)  post." 


GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  HANDLING  ANIMALS.       15 

Another  instance:  A  mule  having  been  assigned  to  a  new  driver, 
the  latter  found  it  impossible  to  get  the  bridle  on — even  with  the 
assistance  of  several  other  men .  Kindness  and  delicacy  in  handling 
the  ears  were  shown,  but  to  no  avail.  Finally,  one  man  who  had  a 
great  deal  of  confidence  in  himself  (it  happened  that  a  "bighead  " 
turned  out  all  right  in  this  case),  said  for  them  all  to  get  away,  he'd 
"bet  he  could  bridle  him."  He  took  the  bridle  in  his  hand  and 
with  a  firm  step  and  knowing  expression  walked  up  to  the  mule's 
head  and  in  a  businesslike  way  proceeded  to  put  the  bit  in  the 
mule's  mouth,  and,  without  "whoaing"  or  coddling  or  gentle 
rubbing  around  the  ears,  simply  but  firmly  took  hold  of  the  mule's 
ears  and  put  them  through  the  bridle.  That  mule  saw  that  the 
others  were  shy  and  he  thought  something  was  wrong.  The  other 
man's  manner  was  all  business,  and  the  mule  knew  he  was  going 
out  to  work  and  hence  had  to  have  a  bridle  on. 

These  instances  show  how  very  necessary  it  is  to  study  each  ani- 
mal carefully.  Many  animals,  however,  have  been  treated  badly 
so  long  that  they  are  confirmed  in  their  bad  habits,  but  these  are 
almost  always  due  to  bad  handling  on  the  part  of  some  man  who  had 
less  brains  than  muscle  and  much  less  sense  than  the  animal — 
because  the  latter  learned  how  to  checkmate  by  these  vices  the 
man  who  would  be  his  master.  Nevertheless,  a  few  vices  are  due 
to  temperament. 

Among  the  vices  most  frequently  encountered  are  pawing,  kick- 
ing, biting,  pulling  back,  balking,  rearing,  and  cribbing,  and  wind- 
eucking. 

Pawing  is  caused  by  nervousness  due  to  pain,  thirst,  hunger, 
loneliness,  or  habit.  There  always  is  good  reason ,  and  if  the  cause 
is  removed  early  the  animal  will  not  acquire  the  vice.  Some 
stables  are  so  arranged  that  by  pawing,  the  animal  can  make  grain 
fall  into  the  feed  box.  It  may  be  cured  by  removing  the  cause.  If 
this  habit  has  been  formed,  the  forelegs  should  be  hobbled,  thus 
enabling  neighboring  animals  and  men  sleeping  near  to  get  some 
rest. 

Windsucking  and  cribbing  (which  is  windsucking  combined  with 
seizing  the  manger,  fence,  or  other  suitable  object  with  the  teeth) 
may  be  prevented  by  buckling  a  strap  around  the  throat  snug  but 
not  tight. 

A  kicker  may  be  one  of  several  kinds — those  who  kick  because 
very  ticklish  or  who  are  quick  to  defend  themselves  when  fright- 
ened or  when  approached  by  a  man  or  animal  known  to  be  an 
enemy,  or  when  desirous  of  ridding  themselves  of  strange  or  painful 
equipment.  The  way  to  prevent  kicking  of  the  first  three  sorts  is  to 
speak  kindly  to  the  animal  upon  approaching  it  and  handle  care- 
f u lly  un  til  it  appreciates  that  no  harm  will  come  to  it.  Can  anyone 


16        GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  HANDLING  ANIMALS. 

blame  a  mule  for  looking  out  of  the  corner  of  his  eye  for  a  chance  to 
give  a  good  kick  to  a  man  engaged  in  scraping  his  hide  off,  especially 
about  the  joints,  with  a  currycomb,  or  to  pay  back  a  man  who  has 
given  him  an  unnecessary  kick  or  blow?  If  you  get  such  an  animal, 
remember,  if  he  has  the  habit,  that  at  first  he  doesn '  t  know  you  from 
a  man  or  men  who  mistreated  him  and  it  will  take  time  to  demon- 
strate your  own  kindly  intentions — hence,  be  patient. 

If  he  persists  in  kicking  when  approached  from  the  rear,  he  may 
be  hobbled,  front  fetlock  to  hind  fetlock,  until  shown  that  trying 
is  useless.  Tie  a  bag  of  straw  up  so  it  will  hang  against  his  hocks. 
Put  a  pole  up  or  hold  pole  against  his  legs  and  rump  to  let  him  see 
that  kicking  does  no  good  and  that  the  pole,  if  let  alone,  does  him 
no  harm.  If  he  kicks  with  both  heels  when  placed  in  the  wagon  or 
when  turned  out  with  other  animals,  tie  a  cord  about  the  size  of  a 
clothesline,  fairly  tight,  around  his  girth  just  in  rear  of  the  back- 
band;  usually  he  will  not  offer  to  kick  more  than  twice. 

Biting  is  a  vice  caused,  as  usual  with  such  failings,  by  faulty 
handling.  Most  times  animals  b  ite  as  a  result  of  some  one's  having 
teased  them  when  young.  In  such  cases  they  expect  and  usually 
do  see  a  jump  on  the  part  of  the  victim,  and  they  like  it.  Horses 
enjoy  play — a  jolce — better  than  some  men.  If  a  person  stands 
still  or  pays  no  attention,  taking  just  enough  action  to  prevent  any 
injury,  such  as  placing  the  hand  on  the  nose,  the  disappointment 
will  oftentimes  be  such  as  to  cause  them  to  give  up  the  habit,  for 
it  will  no  longer  be  any  fun.  About  the  best  thing  that  can  be  done 
to  a  confirmed  biter  is  to  muzzle  the  animal.  If  the  habit  is  just 
forming,  some  cases  may  be  cured  by  a  short  but  sharp  cut  over  the 
nose  with  a  switch  at  the  very  moment  the  animal  is  giving  the  bite. 
Kindness,  however,  is  the  best  remedy — frequent  rubbing  of  the 
head  and  neck. 

Some  animals  will  break  the  halter  shank  by  pulling  back. 
This  habit  is  due  to  careless  handling  of  the  head,  especially  about 
the  ears,  while  grooming  or  when  putting  on  the  bridle.  When 
once  the  animal  knows  it  can  break  loose,  there  are  many  occasions 
when  he  finds  this  ability  very  convenient — for  example,  when  tied 
to  a  hot  picket  line  and  he  is  surrounded  by  a  green  meadow  with 
plenty  of  shade  and  running  water.  The  habit  must  be  cured ,  first, 
by  gentle  treatment,  which  should  be  especially  pursued  until  he 
is  perfectly  willing  and  glad  to  be  rubbed  about  the  head.  Then, 
to  teach  him  to  associate  pain  with  pulling  back,  double  a  rope  (the 
lariat  will  do,  but  it  is  slightly  too  large  for  best  effect),  carry  one 
end  on  each  side  of  the  back,  place  the  bight  along  the  back,  give 
it  half  a  twist,  and  put  the  bight  under  the  tail  like  a  crupper. 
Carry  the  ends  forward,  one  along  each  shoulder,  and  tie  the  ends 
together  evenly  to  a  post  or  manger  and  short  enough  so  that  in 


GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  HANDLING  ANIMALS.       17 

pulling  back  the  strain  will  come  on  this  rope  before  it  does  on  the 
halter  shank. 

A  balky  horse  is  a  proof  of  some  man's  ignorance.  Some  balky 
horses  are  incurable,  but  if  they  are,  it  is  man  who  is  to  blame.  It 
is  very  desirable  that  the  horse  should  see  what  is  going  on  and 
an"  "open"  bridle  (one  without  blinds)  should  be  used,  at  least 
until  he  sees  what  it  is  that  is  touching  him,  handling  him,  rattling 
about,  and  making  such  unusual  noises.  If  patience  is  exercised 
in  the  beginning,  much  time,  labor,  and  good  horseflesh  will  be 
saved.  First  put  on  and  take  off  the  harness.  The  crupper  and 
the  breeching  are  the  two  parts  which  the  green  horse  can  not 
understand.  They  should  be  handled  considerably,  moved  about, 
pulled  so  as  to  bring  pressure  on  the  usually  untouched  parts  of 
the  body.  The  lines  should  be  held  from  behind  and  permitted 
to  drop  down  on  the  legs.  Move  a  large  pole  about  his  legs  and 
sides  and  rump.  Then  walk  him  about  (leading)  in  the  harness. 
Then  drive  with  the  harness  on,  the  lines  being  kept  low  (passed 
through  the  shaft  tugs  or  the  tug  loops  at  the  side  of  the  backhand 
or  saddle),  so  as  to  give  a  sidewise  pull  and  thus  draw  the  head  in 
the  direction  in  which  it  is  desired  that  he  go.  It  is  well  to  tie 
some  small  poles  onto  the  shaft  tugs  (backhand)  and  the  breeching 
and  let  them  dangle  as  he  walks.  Be  sure  and  put  them  on  securely, 
especially  at  the  breeching,  so  the  stick  will  not  slip  down  or 
up  when  he  kicks.  While  being  driven  with  the  harness  on, 
there  should  be  an  assistant  alongside  near  the  head  to  guide  him 
by  pressure  of  the  hand  on  the  side  of  the  head  or  neck  and  thus 
explain  what  is  meant  when  the  lines  are  pulled.  Then  the  green 
horse  should  be  hitched,  in  harness  only,  alongside  a  trained  and 
quiet  animal  and  driven  about,  considerable  attention  being  paid 
to  turning  to  the  right  and  left.  Particular  care  should  be  taken 
when  working  a  green  horse  in  a  double  team  not  to  place  him 
always  on  the  same  side.  He  should  be  changed  frequently  from 
the  near  (left)  side  to  the  off  (right)  side.  The  alternating  of  sides 
should  continue  until  the  animal  is  well  "broken." 

When  he  understands  what  to  do  when  driven  alongside  the 
trained  horse,  the  team  should  be  hitched  to  a  light  wagon.  An 
assistant  should  be  alongside  to  quiet  the  green  horse.  If  the 
driver  sees  that  the  horse  intends  to  stop,  it  is  very  wise  to  say 
"Whoa!"  before  he  has  a  chance  to  stop. 

If  a  trained  horse  be  not  available  for  the  use  as  above  outlined, 
the  green  horse  must  be  driven  alone,  and  an  assistant  should  be 
constantly  alongside  the  animal.  If  available,  a  light  breaking 
cart  with  long  heavy  shafts  should  be  used  for  the  first  hitching. 
It  is  well  to  use  a  kicking  strap,  a  strap  about  2  inches  wide,  which 
is  made  fast  to  one  of  the  shafts  and  carried  over  the  horse's  hips 
76881°— 15 2 


18        GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  HANDLING  ANIMALS. 

on  top  of  or  near  the  hip  straps  and  made  fast  to  the  other  shaft. 
The  nearer  the  kicking  strap  is  to  the  crupper,  the  more  leverage 
the  horse  has  to  work  against  in  kicking  up.  The  whip  should 
not  be  used  in  teaching  a  green  horse  except  possibly  to  touch  him 
very  lightly,  not  so  as  to  hurt  but  only  to  help  the  horse  to  know, 
which  direction  it  is  supposed  to  move.  Few,  if  any,  horses  or 
mules  have  ever  been  taught  anything  by  severe  use  of  a  whip. 
Its  use  will  certainly  not  cure  the  average  balky  horse. 

The  secret  of  curing  a  balky  horse  is  to  divert  his  attention. 
This  may  be  accomplished  in  several  ways.  If  hitched  double  and 
the  horse  props,  the  rope  crupper  referred  to  above  as  a  cure  for 
pulling  back  may  be  used,  the  ends  being  made  fast  to  the  wagon 
tongue.  When  the  trained  horse  starts  and  moves  the  wagon  for- 
ward, the  rope  crupper  is  thus  brought  into  action.  If,  being 
driven  single,  he  props,  the  rope  crupper  may  be  pulled  by  the 
assistant  standing  in  front.  A  smooth  rock  placed  in  the  ear,  of 
size  not  too  small,  but  just  so  it  will  go  in  easily,  will  sometimes 
make  the  victim  think  more  of  this  than  of  his  other  troubles.  A 
string  tied  around  the  ear  will  sometimes  do  the  same  thing. 

Sometimes  a  balker  can  be  cured  by  making  him  dizzy.  Unhitch 
him  (but  do  not  take  harness  off)  and  tie  his  head  (bending  the  neck 
around)  to  the  tail — as  close  as  possible.  Then  make  him  move 
around  and  around — he  must  follow  his  tail — until  he  gets  dizzy. 
Hitch  him  up  quickly  and  the  chances  are  he  will  go. 

Sometimes  an  animal  will  plant  his  feet  deliberately  and  will 
withstand  any  amount  of  swaying  in  any  and  all  directions,  but  he 
makes  up  his  mind  to  "stay  put."  If  he  props  backward,  he  can 
sometimes  be  caught  leaning  hard  backwards  and  forced  back  sud- 
denly, thus  getting  the  best  of  him,  which  he  will  appreciate. 
Sometimes  he  can  be  moved  by  picking  up  his  feet  one  at  a  time;  or 
light  taps  of  the  whip  (not  a  kick)  will4  make  him  pick  up  his  feet. 
Occasionally  an  offer  of  some  food  (sugar  is  very  good)  or  water  will 
get  him  out  of  a  stubborn  state.  The  smell  of  the  "warts,"  some- 
times called,  on  the  inside  of  the  legs  (just  above  the  knees  on  the 
front  legs  and  below  the  hocks  behind)  seems  to  be  peculiarly 
agreeable  to  the  horse;  some  of  the  softer  portion  rubbed  on  the 
glove  and  held  to  the  horse's  nose  will  make  him  friendly  disposed. 
Oil  of  cumin  has  the  same  effect. 

Rearing  is  another  manifestation  of  gross  mishandling  on  the  part 
of  some  man.  It  is  due  almost  invariably  to  the  use  of  too  severe 
a  bit,  or  too  severe  use  of  a  proper  bit,  or  the  use  of  a  proper  bit 
improperly  adjusted  in  the  mouth.  A  snaffle  bit  is  the  only  one 
which  should  ever  be  used  on  a  green  horse,  and  on  every  horse 
which  can  be  controlled  with  it.  In  our  mounted  service  this 
rule  is  not  adhered  to  because  a  bit  for  general  use  is  required, 


GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  HANDLING  ANIMALS.        19 

and  a  mild  curb  is  adopted.  Jerking,  especially  on  a  curb  bit, 
will  cause  the  horse  to  yield  suddenly  to  that  pressure,  conse- 
quently he  will  go  up  in  the  air.  Not  only  jerking  but  continued 
pulling  on  a  severe  bit  will  cause  him  to  seek  the  same  sort  of  relief 
and  he  soon  appreciates  that  he  always  can  get  it  by  that  method, 
and  he  naturally  forms  the  bad  habit  of  rearing.  A  change  of  bit 
will  sometimes  effect  a  cure.  A  leather  or  rubber  bit  or  leather- 
covered  bit  will  often  relieve  the  case.  Occasionally  the  teeth  are 
in  bad  condition,  and  the  mouth  generally  sore  and  feverish;  if  so, 
this  condition  should  be  relieved.  A  martingale  which  is  drawn 
quite  short  will  often  cure  mild  cases;  it  is  better  to  use  the  type 
which  runs  directly  from  the  girth  to  the  bit  or  the  nose  band 
instead  of  the  kind  which  has  rings  through  which  the  reins  are  run. 

To  make  a  check  rein:  Pass  a  rope  (about  the  size  of  the  little 
finger)  through  the  swivel  on  the  right  (throat)  of  bridle  (if  the 
bridle  is  not  provided  with  swivels  for  check  reins,  fasten  a  ring  at 
each  end  of  a  strap  or  rope  about  8  inches  long,  then  fasten  the 
middle  point  of  this  rope  or  strap  to  the  crownpiece  at  top  of  the 
head),  then  down  through  the  right  ring  of  the  bit  (it  should  be 
straight  and  additional  to  the  one  to  which  the  lines  or  reins  are 
fastened),  then  over  the  nose  and  through  the  other  ring  of  the  bit 
and  up  through  the  swivel  (or  ring)  on  the  left  throat  of  the  bridle 
and  make  this  (running)  end  fast  to  the  other  part  of  the  rope  about 
the  withers.  In  case  the  horse  is  being  driven  in  harness,  the  two 
parts  of  the  rope  should  pass  through  the  terrets  (loops  in  the  saddle 
or  backhand),  and  the  short  or  running  end  made  fast  to  the  bight 
of  the  part  of  the  longer  end  at  a  point  just  in  rear  of  the  saddle  or 
backhand;  the  longer  end  is  then  carried  to  the  rear  and  held  in 
the  hand  of  the  driver,  ready  for  instant  use.  To  keep  the  part  over 
the  nose  from  falling  down,  a  strong  cord  should  be  tied  from  it  to 
the  brow  band  on  the  forehead. 

If,  when  a  runaway  starts  to  run,  the  lines  and  this  check  rein 
are  pulled  at  the  same  time,  he  will  be  quickly  stopped.  A  kicker 
can  often  be  cured  if,  just  as  he  is  kicking,  he  is  given  a  good  strong 
haul  on  this  check;  the  point  is — do  it  quickly. 

Sometimes  a  horse  will  kick  so  quickly  and  so  often  that  the  driver 
will  have  his  hand  full  managing  the  lines.  In  this  case  the  check 
can  be  rigged  so  as  to  always  be  ready  for  work.  To  do  this,  fasten 
a  ring  on  the  back  strap  (running  from  the  crupper  to  the  saddle 
or  backhand)  at  the  top  of  the  rump,  and  instead  of  fastening  the 
running  end  to  the  bight  of  the  longer  or  " stand Ing"  end,  both 
ends  are  passed  through  this  ring,  and  both  ends  tied  to  the  shafts- 
one  on  each  side — or  to  the  crossbar;  or,  if  hitched  double,  to  the 
axle  or  other  rigid  part  in  rear. 


20        GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  HANDLING  ANIMALS. 
GROOMING. 

It  seems  hardly  credible,  but  it  is  stated  by  authorities  that  the 
skin  excretes  as  much  waste  matter  as  do  the  bowels;  hence,  the 
necessity  for  regular  and  thorough  grooming  to  keep  the  skin  open 
and  healthy. 

The  currycomb's,  principal  service  is  to  clean  the  brush  by 
drawing  the  brush  across  it  every  few  strokes. 

The  brush  must  be  used  with  force  (except  about  the  head),  put- 
ting the  weight  of  the  body  into  the  stroke;  this  makes  the  work 
much  easier  and  gives  grooming  very  much  the  effect  of  a  delightful 
massage,  which  the  animal  soon  learns  to  appreciate,  and  for  which 
he  learns  to  like  the  giver. 

1  ii  grooming,  remember  that  the  currycomb  is  a  severe  instrument 
when  applied  to  bony  or  sharp  points.  Animals  with  tender  skin 
(they  are  usually  the  most  intelligent)  can  be  easily  ruined  by 
carelessness  or  roughness  in  grooming,  while  if  the  spirit  of  the  old 
adage  "Scratch  me  and  I'll  scratch  you"  is  duly  appreciated  by 
the  man  as  well  as  it  is  by  the  animals,  friendship  is  sure  to  result 
from  the  frequent  and  careful  wielding  of  the  soothing  currycomb 
and  brush. 

Begin  to  groom  where  you  naturally  pat  or  caress  the  animal — 
on  his  neck  on  the  near  (left)  side,  then  gradually  work  to  the  tail 
and  legs.  Don't  forget  to  groom  the  folds  and  cracks — between  and 
just  in  rear  of  the  forelegs,  and  in  the  flanks — but  remember  that 
these  points  are  as  ticklish  as  they  are  important.  Go  to  the  head 
last;  use  the  brush  or  a  cloth  only,  and  these  very  carefully — 
especially  about  the  ears.  Many  a  horse  and  mule  is  ruined  by 
rough  handling  of  his  head.  Clean  out  the  feet  with  a  blunt- 
pointed  instrument  and  examine  them  carefully;  this  is  the  most 
important  part  of  the  grooming;  brush  thoroughly  the  skin  just 
above  the  rear  part  of  the  hoof.  Brush  the  mane  (especially  near 
the  roots),  the  foretop,  and  the  tail  thoroughly,  but  never  touch 
them  with  a  currycomb.  Don't  groom  when  the  animal  is  wet  or 
damp — it  only  mats  the  hair— but  dry  by  rubbing  lightly  with  a 
cloth  or  a  wisp  of  hay  or  straw  and,  when  dry,  groom  as  usual. 

Remember  that  the  feet,  stomach,  and  the  shoulders  of  a  draft 
animal  or  the  back  of  a  riding  animal  are  the  three  most  essential 
points. 

A  wisp  of  straw  is  not  ordinarily  used  in  our  service,  though  no 
implement  will  contribute  more,  if  as  much,  toward  keeping  the 
coat  in  a  smooth  and  healthy  condition.  It  is  made  by  twisting 
hay  or  straw  into  a  rope,  about  6  feet  long,  and  making  of  this  an 
oblong,  compact  mat  by  forming  two  loops  at  the  middle  and 
weaving  the  ends  through  the  four  parts  of  the  loops. 


GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  HANDLING  ANIMALS.       21 
FEEDING. 

Transportation  facilities  for  an  army  will  vary  greatly  due  to  the 
difference  in  nature  of  the  theater  of  operations,  character  of  the 
enemy,  resources  of  the  country,  and  rates  of  the  march  required. 
Against  a  first-class  power,  large  bodies  of  troops  would  be  assembled 
and  maneuvered;  in  campaigns,  such  as  those  in  the  Philippines, 
the  soldier  carried  on  his  back  everything  required  except  occa- 
sionally when  "cargadors"  (natives  who  packed  loads  on  their 
backs)  were  procured  to  carry  rations.  In  mountainous  countries, 
or  in  very  wet  weather  and  on  earth  roads,  pack  mules  or  pack 
horses  (the  larger  foot  makes  considerable  difference  sometimes) 
might  be  the  only  practicable  means  of  transport.  On  winding 
roads  two- wheeled  carts  are  suitable.  On  earth  roads  in  fairly 
good  or  good  condition  escort  wagons,  and  on  metaled  roads  the 
automobile  truck  could  be  used. 

When  the  weight  of  forage  (23  pounds  for  the  mule  and  26  pounds 
for  the  horse)  and  the  round  trip  are  considered,  we  see  that  a  pack 
mule  (net  carrying  capacity  250  pounds)  could  only  go  five  days 
to  the  front  of  his  base  of  supply;  if  he  goes  two  days  to  the  front  he 
can  carry  150  pounds  in  addition  to  his  own  forage. 

The  capacity  of  the  escort  wagon  is  2,765  pounds  with  field  trains 
and  2,465  pounds  with  the  combat  trains.  This  is  the  equivalent 
(for  a  wagon  in  the  field  train)  of  either  230  horse  or  300  mule  rations 
of  grain,  or  175  horse  or  mule  rations  of  hay,  or  565  garrison  rations, 
or  675  travel  rations,  or  920  field  rations,  or  1,380  reserve  rations.  In 
other  words,  a  wagon  could  go  about  12  days  to  the  front  living 
on  the  forage  in  the  wagon  load;  if  a  trip  requiring  3  days'  travel 
to  the  front  of  the  base  of  supply  were  contemplated,  it  could  carry 
to  that  point  about  1  ton. 

When  it  is  seen  how  great  a  part  of  the  load  is  taken  up  with 
forage  for  the  animals,  the  importance  of  ''living  off  the  country,  " 
grazing  where  possible,  and  of  securing  grain  at  the  various  stops 
may  be  appreciated.  Moreover,  it  will  be  impossible  to  always 
get  oats  and  hay,  and  the  necessity  of  teaching  the  animals  to  eat 
different  kinds  of  food  is  apparent.  The  bulk  as  well  as  most  weight 
of  the  forage  ration  is  the  hay;  therefoie  grain  only  is  carried  in 
campaign.  For  each  animal  there  is  carried  along  with  the  animal 
normally  two  days'  grain  ration  and  a  " reserve  grain  ration,  "  which 
makes  a  total  of  three  days.  The  reserve  ration  is  not  to  be  touched 
except  "in  case  of  extreme  necessity,  when  no  other  supplies  are 
available,"  and  not  without  an  express  order  from  the  commander. 

Great  care  should  be  exercised  to  see  that  the  grain,  hay,  and 
straw  are  of  good  quality  and  are  sound.  If  it  is  impossible  to 


22        GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  HANDLING  ANIMALS. 

secure  good  quality,  every  step  should  be  taken  to  make  it  as  pala- 
table and  as  wholesome  as  practicable.  There  will  probably  be 
many  times  when,  due  to  the  exigencies  of  the  service  in  campaign, 
many  varieties  and  grades  of  food  must  be  used.  Horses  can  eat 
most  any  kind  of  food  and  will  do  so  if  they  are  properly  coaxed ; 
they  will  readily  learn  to  eat  carrots,  bread,  etc.,  and  have  been 
known  to  eat  meat  even.  Musty  hay  or  other  grain  can  be  made 
much  more  edible  by  shaking,  sieving,  sprinkling  just  before  feed- 
ing, mixing  with  other  foodstuff  such  as  molasses  or  cane,  green 
corn  or  other  vegetables,  or  adding  a  little  salt. 

When  carrots  or  similarly  shaped  vegetables  are  fed  they  should 
be  cut  lengthwise;  if  cut  round,  the  pieces  may  become  lodged  in 
the  throat. 

Good  bran  contains  large  flakes  and  considerable  proportion  of 
flour;  the  hand  thrust  into  bran  should  when  withdrawn  appear 
well  powdered. 

Dry  bran  will  constipate  while  a  bran  mash  (made  by  stirring 
into  boiling  water  and  then  covering  with  a  layer  of  dry  for  15 
minutes)  is  laxative. 

It  is  generally  impracticable — if  on  the  march — to  feed  hay  in 
the  morning;  most  of  it  is  given  at  night — about  two- thirds — and 
one- third  at  noon  or  after  the  march  for  the  day  is  over. 

Grass  should  be  given  at  every  opportunity ;  it  keeps  the  bowels 
in  good  condition. 

The  ration  of  forage  is  for  the  horse  12  pounds  of  oats  (or  bran), 
and  14  pounds  of  hay,  and  for  the  mule  9  pounds  and  14  pounds, 
respectively.  Bran  when  necessary  (usually  once  a  week)  is  made 
into  a  "mash";  it  must  be  fed  when  freshly  mixed;  if  more  of  a 
purgative  effect  is  desired  a  tablespoonful  of  common  salt  should 
be  added.  Grain  only  (3  days)  is  carried  in  the  field;  hay  or  grass 
is  secured  locally.  Barley  should  always  be  fed  crushed  and  pre- 
ferably wet. 

An  animal  is  just  as  much  entitled  to  good  forage  as  a  man  is  to 
good  food.  Good  oats  are  plump,  have  the  beard  on  the  grain. 
The  kernel  can  be  seen  through  the  split  in  the  hull.  The  grains 
will  not  break  under  pressure  of  the  nail.  They  smell  and  taste 
sweet.  Weight  should  not  be  under  36  pounds  per  bushel,  although 
we  accept  32-pound  oats.  If  a  handful  of  good  oats  be  taken  in  the 
hand,  it  will  oe  impossible  to  compress  them  much  by  hand  pres- 
sure. Good  hay  has  the  leaves  and  top  on  the  stem,  has  a  fresh 
appearance,  and  smells  and  tastes  sweet.  Corn  is  sometimes  fed 
but  it  produces  more  fat  than  working  tissues;  it  is  best  to  feed 
it  ground  or  cracked.  One  hundred  pounds  of  straw  per  month 
is  allowed  each  animal  for  bedding;  it  is  not  allowed  in  the  field. 


GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  HANDLING  ANIMALS.       23 
WATERING. 

There  is  some  difference  of  opinion  as  to  whether  it  is  best  to 
water  before  or  after  feeding;  it  is  generally  thought  best  to  water 
before,  if  practicable.  Of  course,  if  it  is  cold  weather  and  the 
water  is  cold  the  animal  will  not  drink  anyway  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, or  if  at  all  he  will  do  so  very  slowly.  Man  can  best  appreciate 
how  a  horse  feels  under  such  circumstances  by  trying  to  drink 
down  ice  water  in  a  hurry.  If  not  watered  before  feeding  it  is  best 
not  to  water  until  a  couple  of  hours  afterwards;  however,  unless 
sure  that  water  will  be  procurable  after  this  length  of  time,  water 
them  sooner. 

An  animal  can  not  be  given  too  much  water — except,  of  course, 
when  he  is  hot — for  he  will  not  drink  any  more  than  is  good  for  him. 
Water  should  be  given  at  least  three  times  per  day ;  in  hot  weather, 
as  often  as  practicable.  A  horse  will  drink  almost  a  barrel  of  water 
in  tropical  countries,  for  he  loses  so  much  by  sweating. 

Water  from  a  bucket  or  from  a  running  stream — never  frcm  a 
trough,  unless  specific  authority  has  been  given.  Take  care  that 
the  oil  from  the  lantern  which  is  carried  in  the  bucket  does  not 
spill  into  it.  Horses  will  not  drink  tainted  water.  Some  horses 
are  very  particular  about  food  and  water.  They  should  be  hu- 
mored, for  generally  such  traits  indicate  a  superior  type  of  animal. 

When  going  to  the  watering  place,  go  very  slowly.  If  you  are 
ever  going  to  humor  a  horse,  do  it  when  going  to  water.  No  jerk- 
ing, crowding,  or  fighting  is  permissible. 

For  a  half  hour  after  watering  or  after  feeding,  an  animal  should 
not  be  required  to  take  up  a  gait  faster  than  a  walk. 

Remember  that  a  horse  is  entitled  to  as  good  water  as  is  the  man. 
He  is  not  affected  by  certain  of  the  germs  which  attack  man  but, 
on  the  other  hand,  there  are  many  germs  which  are  the  horse's 
enemies  and  which  do  not  attack  man.  The  only  difference  is 
that  the  horse  can  not  talk  while  the  man  can  and  does  not  usually 
lose  any  opportunity  to  growl  at  any  slight  discomfort. 

The  usual  allowance  of  water  for  the  horse  is  5  gallons  if  not 
working  and  10  gallons  if  at  labor.  In  hot  weather  20  or  even  30 
gallons  will  be  needed. 

The  rule  as  to  not  watering  when  animals  are  warm  should  not 
be  understood  to  apply  if  they  are  to  be  kept  moving  for  a  half 
hour  or  more  after  they  drink.  But  never  water  a  warm  animal 
and  then  let  him  stand,  for  it  will  cause  founder. 


24        GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  HANDLING  ANIMALS. 
SHELTER. 

Shelter  should  be  given  the  horse  if  possible,  but  only  to  protect 
him  from  the  hot  sun,  rain,  snow,  and  strong  wind.  When  very 
cold  use  the  blanket. 

If  a  horse  is  very  hot  and  sweating  and  the  weather  is  cool,  put 
a  good  thick  layer  of  straw  or  hay  under  the  blanket.  In  campaign 
about  all  the  shelter  that  can  be  given  is  that  to  be  obtained  from 
the  blanket,  and  by  placing  the  animals  in  a  dry  place  and  as  pro- 
tected from  the  wind  as  possible.  Windbreaks  made  of  brush  or 
other  materials  found  lying  around  the  vicinity  will  often  be  of 
great  help  toward  enabling  animals  to  pass  a  comfortable  night. 
Always  stop  or  tie  your  horse  in  the  shade  if  hot,  or  under  the  pro- 
tection of  a  building  if  cold. 

In  camps  when  it  is  very  hot  it  is  very  desirable — and  if  troops 
remain  for  any  length  of  time  it  is  almost  imperative — that  some 
sort  of  shelter  be  improvised  against  the  hot  rays  of  the  sun.  It 
does  not  require  a  great  amount  of  labor  to  construct  an  open  shed 
in  which  the  posts  are  trees  having  forks  about  14  to  16  feet  from 
the  ground  (sunk  into  the  ground  about  3  feet)  and  the  rafters  and 
covering  consist  of  the  branches  of  the  trees  and  grass,  hay,  or  brush. 
If  hay  or  grass  be  available,  the  covering  can  be  made  waterproof 
also. 

Horses  will  sleep  and  receive  considerable  rest  while  standing 
up,  but  they  will  generally  lie  down  if  given  suitable  surroundings. 

Manure  should  be  burned  or  otherwise  treated  so  as  to  prevent 
breeding  of  flies.  The  Department  of  Agriculture  recommends 
sprinkling  borax  on  the  manure  and  then  sprinkling  with  water; 
this  sterilizes  the  eggs.  Lime,  iron  sulphate,  and  potassium  cya- 
nide will  also  sterilize  fly  eggs,  but  the  two  last-mentioned  chemicals 
are  very  costly  and  the  last-named  very  poisonous.  It  is  estimated 
that,  using  borax,  the  cost  of  treating  the  manure — where  borax 
is  bought  in  100-pound  lots  or  more — is  about  1  cent  per  horse  per 
day. 

If  fly  nets  be  not  available,  some  protection  against  flies  may  be 
given  the  animals  by  tying  branches  of  trees  or  weeds  on  the  harness 
so  as  to  cover  the  shoulders  and  the  sides  and  on  the  throatlatch  to 
protect  the  throat.  Stock  will  stamp  and  switch  a  great  many 
pounds  off  fighting  flies,  so  save  feed  and  prevent  suffering  by  the 
slight  attention  mentioned. 

Flies  will  not  attack  a  horse  which  has  been  rubbed  with  a  cloth 
moistened  with  fish  oil,  or  a  decoction  of  tobacco,  walnut  or  elder 
leaves,  or  carbolized  water. 


CHAPTER  II. 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 


Farrier's  chevron. 
GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Look  after  your  horses,  first,  last,  and  all  times.  Treat  them  with 
kindness;  it  will  not  only  be  humane,  but  will  make  your  work 
easy.  Do  not  allow  any  man  in  your  detachment  to  mistreat  an 
animal ;  see  that  his  punishment  is  more  severe  than  that  he  gave 
the  animal. 

Look  after  your  horses'  shoes. 

After  horses  reach  quarters  or  camp  look  carefully  over  each  one 
and  do  the  same  before  they  leave. 

When  a  horse  is  reported  sick,  attend  to  him  at  once,  no  matter 
if  it  rains  or  shines,  if  it  is  day  or  night.  If  two  or  more  horses 
are  sick  with  the  same  symptoms,  call  the  veterinarian.  If  a  horse 
dies  suddenly  with  no  apparent  cause,  call  the  veterinarian. 

Whenever  a  new  horse  comes  to  the  detachment,  examine  his 
nose  for  sores  and  ulcerations,  for  discharge  from  one  of  both  nostrils, 
for  swellings  of  the  glands  on  under  part  of  the  lower  jaw.  If  any 
of  these  symptoms  are  found,  keep  animal  isolated  until  it  can  be 
examined  by  a  veterinarian.  These  symptoms  indicate  glanders, 
a  fatal  disease,  communicable  to  man  as  well  as  to  animals.  If 
any  animal  in  the  detachment  shows  such  symptoms,  isolate  it  at 
once.  Do  not  permit  saddles,  harness,  or  tools  used  for  the  sick 
horses  to  be  used  for  sound  animals. 

Temperature. — The  normal  temperature  of  horse,  taken  by  ther- 
mometer in  the  rectum  for  three  or  four  minutes,  is  99°  to  100°  F. 

A  permanent  rise  of  2°  or  3°  indicates  fever. 

A  persistence  of  high  evening  temperature  lasting  into  morning 
shows  an  aggravation  of  the  condition. 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 


PLATE  III.— Diseases  of  the  horse. 


1 ,  Caries  of  the  lower  jaw 

2,  Fistula  of  the  parotid 

duct. 

3,  Bony  excrescence  or  ex- 

ostosis  of  the  lower 
jaw. 

4,  Swelling  by  pressure  of 

the  bridle. 

5,  Poll  evil. 

(i,  Inflamed  parotid  gland. 

7,  Inflamed  jugular  vein. 

8,  Fungus     tumor,     pro- 

duced by  pressure  of 
the  collar. 
9,  Fistula  in  the  withers. 


10,  Saddle  gall. 

11,  Tumor  of  the  elbow. 

12,  Induration  of  the  knee. 

13,  Clap  of  the  back  sin- 

ews. 

14,  Malanders. 

15,  Splint. 

16,  Ringbone. 

17,  A  tread  upon  the  cor- 

onet. 

18,  Quittor. 

19,  Sand  crack. 

20,  Contracted  or  ring  foot 

of  a  foundered  horse. 


Capped  hook. 

Malanders. 

Spavin. 

Curb. 

Swelled  sinews. 

Thick  leg. 

Grease. 

A   crack   in   front   of 

the  foot,  called  cow 

crack. 

Quarter  crack. 
Ventral  hernia. 
Rat-tail- 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER.  27 

A  persistence  of  low  morning  temperature  lasting  into  the  even- 
ing indicates  improvement. 

Pulse. — This  is  felt  on  lower  jaw  or  inside  forelimb  inside  the 
elbow  joint.  In  the  horse  it  should  be  36  to  49  per  minute.  In 
old  age  it  is  less  frequent.  Young  and  nervous  animals  and  fe- 
males have  a  greater  rapidity  of  the  pulse. 

Breathing. — The  young  horse  breathes  10  to  12  times  per  minute, 
the  adult  animal  9  to  10.  Any  excitement  accelerates.  Exercise, 
even  walking  few  hundred  yards,  increases  the  respirations  to  25 
or  28  per  minute;  after  trotting  five  minutes,  to  52;  after  galloping 
five  minutes,  to  62. 

Hurried  breathing  not  caused  by  exercise,  nor  heat  of  atmos- 
phere or  not  accompanied  by  distension  of  the  abdomen,  is  indica- 
tion of  fever,  especially  if  associated  with  rapid  pulse  and  increased 
heat  of  the  body. 

The  well  horse  has  a  smooth  coat  (inculding  the  hair  at  the  root 
of  the  tail),  skin  pliable  and  easily  rolled  on  the  flesh,  clear,  bright, 
open  eyes,  salmon-pink  colored  membranes  in  the  nostril,  light- 
yellow  colored  urine,  erect  ears;  he  holds  his  neck  at  an  angle 
considerably  above  the  horizontal,  stands  on  four  feet  squarely, 
plants  his  feet  in  regular  cadence  in  walking  or  trotting,  and  has 
no  unusual  discharges  from  any  part  of  the  body.  He  has  a  good 
appetite — this  being  probably  the  best  means  of  telling  his  state 
of  health. 

The  remarks  as  to  carriage  do  not  apply  to  a  horse  at  rest  when 
sleeping  or  when  drowsing,  for  then  the  neck  is  naturally  droopeji 
and  oftentimes  the  animal  rests  his  hind  quarters  by  standing  on 
one  leg  or  stands  on  one  foreleg  and  one  diagonal  hind  leg,  allow- 
ing the  others  to  bend  and  thus  relax  the  muscles.  However, 
if  an  animal  stands  always  on  one  of  the  legs  (front  or  hind)  and 
rests  the  other,  a  weakness  may  be  the  cause.  It  is  almost  invari- 
ably so  if  he  does  not  stand  evenly  on  both  front  legs. 

An  unusual  discharge  from  any  part  of  the  body,  distended  and 
red  nostrils,  drooping  eyes  or  ears  or  neck,  shifting  about  on  the 
feet,  refusal  to  stand  on  one  foot,  especially  if  he  "points"  the  toe 
(that  is,  holds  it  out  to  the  front,  resting  lightly  on  the  ground),  an 
unsteady  or  irregular  gait,  cracked  hoofs,  sores  or  irritation  of  the 
quarters  (just  above  the  rear  part  of  the  hoof),  or  lack  of  appetite 
indicate  a  diseased  condition. 

In  treating  animals  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  few  medicines 
of  themselves  do  the  curing.  Nature  does  it.  Man  helps  by 
giving  food  which  is  easily  digested,  by  giving  extra  care  to  the 
sick,  and  by  guarding,  as  it  were,  against  the  attack  of  any  enemies 
in  the  shape  of  germs  which  are  ready  to  seize  the  weak  or 
wounded. 


28  DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 

A  general  rule  as  to  the  symptom  of  a  discharge  from  the  nose: 
Little  fear  need  be  entertained  if  the  discharge  runs  freely  from 
the  nose  (that  is  if  it  is  not  sticky),  or  if  it  is  stringy  and  will  not 
mix  (break  up)  with  water;  these  symptoms  indicate  a  cold.  If, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  discharge  is  creamy,  sticky,  and  it  will 
break  up  into  fine  particles,  and  hence  will  mix  with  water,  the 
symptoms  indicate  a  serious  condition,  and  prompt  steps  should  be 
taken  to  isolate  the  animal  and  to  get  expert  veterinary  attention. 

RESTRAINT  OF  ANIMALS. 

It  will  be  necessary  in  some  cases  to  restrain  the  animal  while  it 
is  being  treated,  but  it  will  be  remembered  that  by  a  kind  handling 
the  animal  will  not  be  so  refractory  as  when  treated  in  a  rough 
manner. 

Beating,  kicking,  jerking  should  be  absolutely  avoided.  It  does 
not  quiet  the  animal,  but  does  frighten  him  and  serves  to  demon- 
strate the  lack  of  sense  in  the  man  doing  it. 

There  are  three  principal  methods  of  restraint,  viz,  hobbling, 
putting  on  a  twitch,  and  throwing. 

Hobbling  is  the  least  severe,  consisting  of  simply  raising  one  of 
the  forefeet  almost  to  the  elbow  and  tying  or  strapping  the  leg  in 
the  bent  position.  A  loop  is  passed  around  the  leg  at  the  pastern 
(just  above  the  hoof),  and  with  the  leg  in  the  bent  position  the  ends 
of  the  strap  or  rope  passed  around  the  forearm  and  made  fast. 
If  rope  is  used,  the  skin  should  be  protected  by  several  layers  of 
( •!<  »i  li ,  such  as  pieces  of  oat  sack.  If  a  strap  be  used,  it  should  have 
a  keeper  at  the  back  near  the  buckle,  or  a  keeper  be  improvised 
by  a  small  rope  or  several  strands  of  a  strong  cord. 

To  prevent  kicking  or  to  make  the  animal  stand  for  very  short 
periocfs  only,  an  assistant  may  be  directed  to  hold  up  the  foreleg 
opposite  the  side  on  which  the  animal  is  being  treated.  If  he 
attemps  to  go  down  on  that  leg,  follow  him  down  still  holding  the 
foot  and  leg  in  the  same  relative  position;  don't  try  to  resist,  for 
if  you  do  you  give  him  that  which  you  took  away  from  him — 
a  point  of  support  for  his  leg — and  he  can  lunge. 

The  twitch  is  made  of  a  strong  stick  !£  feet  long,  1§  inches  diame- 
ter. Near  one  end  two  holes  about  3  inches  apart  are  made  to 
pass  a  i-inch  (diameter)  rope.  A  loop  about  large  enough  to  hold 
the  closed  fist  is  made  in  the  rope  by  passing  the  ends  through 
these  holes  and  tying  knots  in  the  ends;  or  any  method  may  be 
used  by  which  a  loop  about  the  size  of  the  fist  can  be  fastened 
near  the  enol  of  the  stick. 

The  hand  is  passed  through  the  loop  and  the  upper  lip  is  gathered 
in  the  hand  and  the  loop  is  passed  over  the  hand  and  onto  the  lip. 
The  stick  is  given  several  turns  so  that  the  rope  twists,  thereby 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER,  29 

exerting  a  pressure  on  the  sensitive  upper  lip,  and  this  will  or- 
dinarily make  the  animal  quiet.  The  twitch  should  not  be  twisted 
too  severely. 

To  throw  an  animal  (which  should  be  rarely  necessary),  hobble, 
as  before  explained,  the  foreleg  on  the  side  on  which  you  wish 
him  to  lie  when  down. 

The  casting  harness,  Plate  IV,  figure  1,  should  be  used  if  avail- 
able. Wrap  the  pasterns  of  the  rear  legs  (between  the  fetlock 
ankle  and  the  hoof)  very  carefully  with  cloth  to  prevent  rope 
burn.  If  casting  hame  be  not  available,  double  the  lariat  and  tie 
a  knot  near  the  middle  so  as  to  form  a  loop  large  enough  to  fit  like 
a  collar  over  the  horse's  shoulders.  The  loop  is  passed  over  the 
head  and  onto  the  shoulders  like  a  collar,  the  knot  being  so  adjusted 
that  it  will  come  on  the  horse's  breast.  Pass  the  two  ends  between 
the  forelegs  under  the  belly  and  then  between  the  hind  legs. 

Then  pass  the  ends  one  under  the  right  and  one  under  the  left 
hind  ankle,  previously  wrapped,  and  then  along  the  side  and  up 
through  the  loop  around  the  horse's  neck.  There  is  an  assistant 
on  each  end,  one  on  each  side;  another  assistant  holds  the  head 
and  stands  on  the  side  on  which  the  animal  is  intended  to  lie. 

The  reins  are  off  the  neck  and  passed  to  the  shoulder  opposite  the 
side  on  which  the  animal  is  to  lie,  and  are  grasped  by  the  thrower 
(the  man  handling  the  reins)  with  the  hand  farthest  from  the  head ; 
the  other  hand  grasps  the  ear  on  the  opposite  side. 

The  head  is  drawn  to  the  side  by  the  reins  and  the  command 
"pull"  is  given.  At  this  signal  the  two  assistants  at  the  sides 
pull  forward  on  the  ends  of  the  lariat,  thus  drawing  the  hind  feet 
forward;  the  head  is  drawn  further  back  toward  the  girth  and  the 
animal  settles  down  on  its  side.  The  thrower  quickly  places  his 
knee  on  the  neck  near  the  head,  and  raises  the  muzzle  of  the  horse 
from  the  ground.  The  assistants  at  the  sides  carry  the  ends  of 
the  rope  to  the  hind  legs  and  make  fast  near  the  hoofs — where  the 
cloth  has  been  previously  placed.  The  horse  thus  fettered  can 
not  get  up  nor  struggle  effectively  as  long  as,  a  man  has  his  knee 
on  the  animal's  neck  and  holds  its  nose  off  the  ground. 

WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES. 

In  order  to  intelligently  handle  medicines  and  other  supplies 
used  in  caring  for  animals  a  familiarity  with  tables  of  weights  and 
measures  is  necessary. 

It  will  sometimes  be  necessary  to  improvise  measures.  A  bal- 
ance is  easily  constructed  by  placing  containers  of  some  sort,  one 
on  each  end  of  a  stick,  balance  on  a  sharp  edge,  and  mark  the 
point  of  balance. 


30  DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 

METRIC  SYSTEM. 

The  metric  system  of  weights  and  measures  is  used  in  many 
foreign  countries.  It  is  based  on  the  decimal  system.  There  are 
three  units;  of  length,  the  meter  (m);  of  weight,  the  gram  (g);  of 
capacity,  the  liter  Tl).  There  is  also  a  unit  of  surface  based  on  the 
meter,  one  "are"  being  a  square  10  meters  on  a  side.  The  sub- 
divisions or  the  multiples  of  these  units  are  indicated  by  prefixes, 
as  follows: 

PARTS. 

Deci  equals  -j^.  as  decimeter  (^  of  a  meter). 
Centi  equals  y^,  as  centiliter  (T^  of  a  liter). 
Milli  equals  j^Vv?  as  milligram  (yoVo  of  a  gram). 


MULTIPLES. 

Deka  equals  10  times,  as  dekaliter  (10  liters). 

Hecto  equals  100  times,  as  hectometer  (100  meters). 

Kilo  equals  1,000  times,  as  kilogram  (1,000  grams). 

The  meter  (39.37  inches)  is40,ooVooo  °f  the  circumference  of  the 
earth;  the  grain  (15.43  grains)  is  the  weight  of  1  cubic  centimeter 
(that  is,  of  a  cube  whose  edge  is  y^  of  a  meter  in  length),  of  water 
at  its  maximum  density;  the  liter  (1.06  quarts)  is  1  cubic  deci- 
meter (that  is,  a  cube  wnose  edge  is  ^  of  a  meter  in  length). 

The  Quantities  usually  used  in  business  where  the  metric  system 
is  established  are  as  follows: 

Meter,  39.37  inches;  a  centimeter  is  £  of  an  inch;  kilometer, 

f  mile  (0.62137). 

Hectare,  2.471  acres;  or  1  acre  ^  of  a  hectare. 
Liter,  0.9081  quart  (dry)  or  1.1  quarts  (liquid). 
Kilogram  1  2.  2046  pounds  (avoirdupois). 
Metric  ton,  2,204.6  pounds. 
One  liter  of  water  weighs  1  kilo. 

The  following  are  weights  per  bushel  of  various  foods  for  animals: 

Wheat,  60  pounds. 

Corn,  in  ear,  70  pounds. 

Corn,  shelled,  56  pounds. 

Rye,  56  pounds. 

Barley,  48  pounds. 

Bran,  20  pounds. 

Corn  meal,  48  pounds. 

Salt  (fine),  about  60  pounds. 

Oats,  36  pounds  (32  pounds  is  accepted). 

i  Usually  called  kilo  (kee-lo). 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER.  31 

Contents  of  various  containers: 

Bucket,  G.  I.  (level),  12  pounds  oats. 
Bucket,  G.  I.  (level),  16  pounds  cracked  corn. 
Bucket,  G.I.  (level),  7  pounds  bran. 
A  flake  of  baled  hay  weighs  about  13  pounds. 

APOTHECARIES   FLUID   MEASURE. 

60  minims  or  drops  (m)  equal  1  dram  (f3)  (1  teaspoonful). 
8  drams  equal  1  ounce  (f§)  (2  tablespoonfuls). 
16  ounces  equal  1  pint  (0). 

2  pints  equal  1  quart. 

4  quarts  equal  1  gallon. 

A  drop  (Gtt.)  is  a  minim. 

1  teaspoonful  is  a  fluid  dram  (1  drop  of  water  weighs  almost 

1  grain). 

1  tablespoon  is  4  teaspoonfuls,  or  one-half  a  fluid  ounce. 
1  pint  is  about  a  pound  (avoirdupois). 
16  drops  are  approximately  1  cubic  centimeter  (c.  c.).. 

The  issue  (Ordnance  Department)  spoonful  (scant)  is  a  table- 
spoonful  containing  therefore  about  250  grains,  or  15  cubic  centi- 
me tersljc.  c.). 

The  issue  cup  models  of  1904  (old  tin  cup)  contains  60  table- 
spoons or  nine-tenths  of  1  quart;  1908  and  model  of  1910  (aluminum 
with  handle)  holds  50  tablespoonfuls  or  24  ounces. 

APOTHECARIES    WEIGHT. 

20  grains  (gr)  equal  1  scruple  (3). 

3  scruples  equal  ].  dram  ( 5 ) . 
8  drams  equal  1  ounce  (5). 

12  ounces  equal  1  pound  (lb.). 

IMPROVISED    WEIGHTS. 

One  drop  of  water  weighs  about  1  grain. 

A  silver  (United  States)  dollar  (new)  weighs  about  1J  ounces 
apothecaries  and  1^  ounces  avoirdupois. 

A  nickel  (United  States  5-cent  piece)  weighs  about  1J  drams 
apothecaries^. 

Ten  pennies  (United  States  1-cent  pieces)  weigh  (new)  exactly 
1  ounce  apothecaries. 

One  gram  is  equivalent  to  15.22  grains  (the  weight  of  a  cubic 
centimeter  of  water). 


32  DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 

One  pound  apothecaries  is  5,760  grains.  One  pound  avoirdupois 
(scales  used  in  stores  for  weighing  provisions,  grain,  etc.)  weighs 
7,000  grains.  The  ' 'grain  "  is  the  same  in  all  weights — apothecaries, 
troy,  and  avoirdupois. 

ABBREVIATIONS   USED   IN    MEDICINE. 

1^  means  "take." 

ss  means  "half,"  as  §  ss  means  "half  ounce." 

i  means  "one,"  as  5  i  means  "1  dram"  or  5  iss  "1J  ounces." 

ij  means  "two,"  as  £)ij  means  "  2  scruples." 

"Ad"  means  "add  to";  "Ad  lib."  means  "at  pleasure." 

"Aq."  means  "water;"  "D."  means  "dose;"  "  Dil." 

means  "dilute." 
"Ess"  means  "essence;"  "Filt"  means  "filter;"  "Lot." 

means  "wash." 

"M"  means  "mix";  "Mac"  means  "macerate"  (to  steep). 
"Pulv."  means  "powder;"  "Pil."  means  "Pill;"  "Solv." 

means  "dissolve." 
"St."  means  "let  stand;"  "Sum"  means  "to  be  taken." 


8  quarts=l  peck. 
4  pecks =1  bushel. 

1  bushel  contains  2,150.4  cubic  inches. 

LIQUID    MEASURE. 

4  gills=l  pint. 

2  pints=l  quart. 

4  quarts=l  gallon. 

1  gallon  contains  231  cubic  inches. 


12  inches=l  foot. 

3  feet=l  yard. 

5J  yards=l  rod. 

1,760  yards =1  mile. 

1  meter=39.37  inches. 

1  kilometer=0.62  (about  f )  mile. 

A  penny  (United  States  1-cent  piece)  is  f  inch  in  diameter. 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER.  33 

DISINFECTANTS. 

Heat  is  the  best  disinfectant.  Boiling  for  not  under  15  minutes 
serves  very  well.  Soap  and  water  and  then  sunlight  are,  next  to 
heat,  probably  the  best  germ  killers  in  most  practical  instances. 
In  especially  malignant  diseases,  such  as  glanders  and  rinderpest, 
where  thorough  disinfection  is  imperative,  total  destruction  by 
fire  is  the  best  method.  Oil  sprinkled  on  ground  and  burned  is 
very  good. 

Chemical  disinfectants  are  effective  if  they  reach  the  microbes. 
Disinfecting  vapors  are,  next  to  heat,  most  effective.  ^  Sulphur 
placed  in  a  shovel  or  other  metal  container  and  burned  in  an  in- 
fected building  or  room  which  has  been  thoroughly  sealed  will 
generate  fumes  which  will  thoroughly  disinfect  in  24  hours.  One 
pound  of  sulphur  is  required  per  1,000  cubic  feet.  Liquids  come 
next  in  efficacy.  Creolin  (Pearson)  1  part,  water  25  parts;  carbolic 
acid  1  part,  water  20  parts;  corrosive  sublimate  (mercury  chloride) 
1  part,  water  1,000  parts,  are  good.  Never ^use  a  sponge  in  cleaning 
wounds — always  cotton;  then  burn  or  boil  or  otherwise  disinfect 
it.  Whitewash  or  paint  simply  cover  up  objectionable  matter. 

When  it  is  advisable,  either  from  necessity  or  from  dictates  of 
humanity,  to  dispose  of  an  animal,  the  easiest  method  is  by  shooting 
with  either  a  rifle  or  a  pistol.  Care  must  be  taken  to  see  that  no 
person  or  animal  is  in  rear  of  or  within  close  distance  of  the  animal, 
for  even  after  having  passed  through  a  portion  of  the  animal's 
body  bullets  occasionally  still  have  considerable  velocity.  The 
barrel  of  the  weapon  should  be  held  at  right  angles  to  and  the 
muzzle  not  over  2  inches  from  the  center  of  the  forehead,  aimed 
at  a  point  above  the  eyes  about  half  an  inch  below  the  lowest 
hairs  of  the  foretop. 

EQUIPMENT   FOR   THE    FARRIER. 

General  Orders,  No.  115,  War  Department,  1911,  gives  a  list  of 
veterinary  medicines  and  equipment  and  allowances  for  organiza- 
tions of  the  Regular  Army  which  have  public  animals.  The  total 
weight  of  such  supplies  to  be  transported  in  field  or  store  wagons, 
or  on  store  pack  mules,  will  not  exceed  a  quantity  based  on  a  rate 
of  18  pounds,  including  containers  and  cases,  per  100  animals. 
These  supplies  will  be  transported  in  combat  trains  in  all  cases 
where  organizations  have  store  wagons  or  store  pack  mules,  and  in 
field  wagons  for  other  organizations.  In  mounted  organizations 
the  work  of  the  farrier  is  performed  under  the  supervision  of  the 
veterinarians;  therefore  the  following  information  regarding  the 
veterinarian's  equipment  is  given. 

76881°— 15 3 


34  DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 

Each  veterinarian  is  supplied  with  a  veterinarian's  field  equip- 
ment weighing  about  150  pounds,  which  consists  of  a  set  of  "Veter- 
inarian's field  chests,"  veterinarian's  saddlebags  and  their  con- 
tents. (See  PL  IV,  p.  35.) 

Veterinarian's  field  chests. — Each  set  consists  of  5  chests.  Of 
the  two  large  chests,  one  is  supplied  with  10  empty  bottles,  14  or 
16  ounces,  height  not  to  exceed  7£  inches;  the  other  containing 
18  empty  round  jars  with  screw  tops,  3f  inches  high  by  2£  inches 
in  diameter.  These  two  chests  with  the  other  three  chests  (to  be 
supplied  empty)  contain  the  veterinarian's  field  supplies. 

Instruments  and  appliances  for  field  chests — 

Figure  1.  1  casting  harness. 

Figure  2.  1  catheter. 

Figure  3.  1  clipper,  hand. 

Figure  4.  1  drenching  bottle,  rubber. 

Figure  5.  1  flat,  tooth,  straight  and  angular. 

Figure  6.  1  graduate  glass. 

Figure  7.  1  hoof-knife  set,  in  roll. 

Figure  8.  1  stomach  tube,  with  stylet. 

Figure  9.  1  syringe,  metal,  2-ounce. 

Figure  10.  1  tray,  enameled,  10-inch. 

A  veterinarian's  saddlebag  should  contain  the  following  articles: 

Figure  11.  1  hypodermic  syringe  and  case;  1  tray,  tin  (to  be 
filled  with  sponge  or  gauze  when  packed). 

Figure  12.  1  case,  surgical,  small,  vest-pocket  size,  to  contain  the 
following: 

1  scalpel. 

1  bistoury,  probe  pointed. 

1  bistoury,  sharp  pointed. 

1  tenacumm. 

1  probe,  silver,  jointed,  two  sections. 

1  director,  grooved. 

2  forceps,  artery,  with  catch. 

6  needles,  suture,  curved  and  half  curved,  assorted  sizes. 
1  scissors,  curved  or  flat. 

For  organizations  which  have  animals  but  which  have  no  veter- 
inarian, such  as  Infantry,  Engineers,  and  Signal  troops,  a  "Veter- 
inary pannier"  is  supplied.  (See  PL  V.)  It  weighs  approxi- 
mately 70  pounds. 

The  contents  of  a  veterinary  pannier  are  not  prescribed  in  detail. 
A  pannier  should  be  equipped  with  such  supplies  as  are  appro- 
priate and  necessary  for  any  particular  march  or  expedition.  Pan- 
niers supplied  to  organizations  haying  no  veterinarians  are  for  use 
as  containers  of  veterinary  medicines  and  dressings.  Panniers 
may  be  supplied  to  Cavalry  and  Field  Artillery  regimental  head- 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 


35 


36  DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 

quarters  and  may  also  be  equipped  with  instruments  and  appli- 
ances selected  from  the  veterinarian's  field  equipment;  or  one  of 
the  veterinarian's  field  chests  may  be  used  for  this  purpose  in  lieu 
of  the  pannier  supplied  regimental  headquarters. 

One  authority  has  suggested  the  following  list  of  veterinary 
supplies.     Under  ordinary  conditions  it  should  suffice  for  100  ani- 
mals for  10  days: 
Medicines — 

3  aloes  balls. 

£  pound  ammonia,  aromatic  spirits. 

£  pound  ammonia  liniment. 

J  pound  charcoal. 

J  pound  chloronaphtholeum  or  kreso. 

J  pound  colic  mixture. 

|  pound  cosmoline. 

|  pound  iodine  tincture. 

J  pound  lime,  chloride  of. 

3  ounces  mercury,  bichloride  of. 
J  pound  oil,  linseed. 

£  pound  oil,  olive. 

£  pound  ointment,  antiseptic. 

J  pound  tar,  pine. 

J  pound  three  sulphates  (copper,  iron,  and  zinc). 
Dressings — 

J  pound  absorbent  cotton. 

1  package  antiseptic  gauze. 
Banda£ee~- 

1  flannel. 

4  cotton,  white. 
1  pound  oakum. 

1  pound  soap,  Castile. 

The  above  list  might  be  amended  by  omitting  the  third,  fourth, 
ninth,  tenth,  eleventh,  and  fifteenth  items,  increasing  quantity  of 
olive  oil  to  1  quart,  changing  fifth  item  to  "1  pound  of  Creoline, 
Pearson,"  adding  1  pound  of  turpentine,  and  increasing  amount 
of  absorbent  cotton  to  1  pound. 

In  the  Organized  Militia  when  continuous  service  in  the  field  is 
expected  the  same  equipment  should  be  carried  as  by  Regular 
troops.  In  time  of  peace  such  an  elaborate  outfit  is  unnecessary; 
the  possession  by  each  troop  of  the  prescribed  ' '  Farrier's  field  equip- 
ment" (specified  in  General  Orders,  No.  115,  War  Department, 
1911),  and  certain  additional  supplies,  will  meet  the  requirements. 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 


37 


PLATE  V.— Interior  of  veterinary  pannier;  tray  removed. 


38  DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 

FARRIER'S  FIELD  EQUIPMENT. 
(See  Pis.  VI  and  VII,  pp.  39  and  40.) 

For  the  farrier  an  outfit  much  simpler  than  that  for  the  veterina- 
rian is  prescribed.  Eighteen  pounds  are  allowed  for  the  entire 
equipment  required  by  the  farrier  in  the  performance  of  his  special 
duties. 

1  basin,  granite,  1-quart.* 

4  bottles,  1-pin tf — 

1  for  colic,  drench. 

1  for  restorative  in  heat  exhaustion  and  rise  in  temperature. 

1  for  antiseptic  wash  (creolin,  Pearson). 

1  with  detachable  rubber  neck,  for  drenching  bottle. 
1  farrier's  instrument  pocket  case. 
1  graduate  glass,  2-ounce.* 
1  dose  syringe,  metal,  4-ounce.* 

Additional  equipment  and  supplies  needed. 

1  funnel,  enamel,  1-quart.* 

10  bandages,  gauze,  about  4  inches  wide,  and  5  yards  long.f 

10  bandages,  cotton,  same  dimensions. t 

5  pounds  cotton,  absorbent. f 

10  days'  supply  of  medicines. f    (See  table  below.) 

There  is  also  issued  to  the  farrier  when  he  acts  as  horseshoer  a 

HORSESHOER'S  EMERGENCY  EQUIPMENT. 

(See  PI.  VIII,  p.  41.) 
1  shoeing  hammer.* 
1  pincers.* 
1  hoof  knife.* 

1  jointed  horseshoe,  No.  2.f 
1  rasp.* 

Horseshoe  nails, f  as  required. 
J-pound  oakum. t 
1  4-ounce  bottle  chlorolin  or  kreso.f 

Articles  marked  f  are  expendable  upon  certificate  of  the  account- 
able officer  that  they  were  used  in  the  public  service. 

Articles  marked  *  are  expendable  on  the  certificates  of  the  ac- 
countable officer,  approved  by  the  commanding  officer,  that  they 
were  worn  out  in  the  public  service  and  have  no  salable  value,  and 
the  certificate  of  a  disinterested  officer  that  he  witnessed  the  de- 
struction. If  they  have  any  salable  value,  they  must  be  submitted 
to  the  action  of  an  inspector  (Bulletin  No.  3,  War  Department,  1914). 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 


40 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 


41 


fM 


42  DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 

FARRIER'S  INSTRUMENT  POCKET  CASE  (IN  CANVAS  ROLL). 
•    (See  PI.  VII,  p.  40.) 

Contents:  Fig. 

1  bistoury,  curved,  blunt 1 

1  director 2 

1  scissors,  curved 3 

1  forceps,  artery 4 

1  probe 5 

1  clinical  thermometer 6 

1  scalpel 7 

1  hoof  knife 8 

1  forceps,  dressing 9 

6  needles,  curved. 
1  silk,  skein. 

Uses— 

(a)  Bistoury,  curved,  blunt,  for  opening  of  abscesses;  use  scalpel, 
making  small  opening  at  lowest  point  of  abscess,  and  when 
pus  (matter)  shows  enlarge  opening  with  probe-pointed 
bistoury.  Do  not  make  opening  larger  than  necessary  to 
give  pus  easy  flow.  Wash  and  disinfect  before  and  after 
opening  and  keep  area  clean. 
(6)  Curved  scissors  for  clipping  the  hair  off  parts  when  knife  is 

to  be  used,  and  for  trimming  ragged  edges  off.     Keep  instrument 

clean,  use  an  antiseptic  solution  (noncorrosive),  such  as  creolin  and 

water. 

(c)  Artery  forceps,  for  picking  up  a  cut  artery  for  ligation.     Arte- 
rial bleeding  is  recognized  by  the  blood  coming  in  spurts  corre- 
sponding to  the  pulse.     When  the  artery  is  picked  up,  tie  silk 
around  it  and  remove  forceps.     Also  used  for  removing  foreign  sub- 
stance from  wound. 

(d)  Needles,  for  sewing  up  fresh-cut  wounds.     Start  sewing  from 
top  of  wound ;  tie  each  stitch  and  do  not  close  wound  entirely  at  its 
lowest  point  but  leave  outlet  for  pus  that  may  form.     Take  stitches 
out  if  suppuration  is  detected  down  in  the  wound  (the  wound  has  in 
that  case  become  infected  before  being  dressed  or  not  been  properly 
cleansed).     If  no  suppuration  occurs,  remove  stitches  when  wound 
appears  to  have  healed— 3  to  5  days.    Few  wounds  will  heal  without 
suppuration  in  a  horse  or  mule  unless  dressed  when  wound  is  quite 
fresh  and  absolutely  clean. 

(e)  Suture  silk,  for  sewing  up  wounds.     It  must  be  clean  and  be 
well  soaked  in  pure  Creolin  before  used.     After  the  wound  is  sewed 
up,  dust  iodoform  on  it  or  apply  a  little  vaseline. 

•(/)  Probe,  used  to  find  out  if  any  foreign  substance  is  in  the 
wound — for  example  the  bullet  in  a  shot  wound. 
(g)  Tenaculum  is  used  to  pick  up  ends  of  arteries  and  tissues. 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER.  43 

(h)  Director:  Little  used,  except  as  a  probe.  For  deep  cutting 
(very  rarely  done)  it  is  sometimes  used  as  a  guide  for  the  bistoury 
or  scalpel. 

Clinical  thermometer:  Insert  in  rectum  for  three  or  four  min- 
utes. 

After  using  the  thermometer  the  mercury  should  be  shaken 
down.  Before  using,  it  should  be  examined  to  see  that  it  reg- 
isters under  95°. 

The  farrier  should  always  have  with  him — 

1.  Instrument  pocket  case. 

2.  Colic  mixture — 5  doses  (see  "Medicine"  below). 

3.  Antipyretic  (antifever)   mixture — 5  doses  (see  "Medi- 

cine" below). 

4.  Antiseptic  (Creolin),  J  pint  (see  "Medicine"  below). 

5.  1  dose  syringe,  2  ounces. 

6.  Clinical  thermometer. 

7.  Bandages,  cotton  (4). 

8.  Bandages,  gauze  (4). 

9.  Cotton,  absorbent,  2  pounds. 

10.  3  feet  rubber  tubing  with  funnel  to  fit,  or  drenching 
bottle. 

Conditions  of  service  should  determine  what  other  articles  of  the 
field  equipment,  if  any,  ought  to  be  so  carried.  For  example,  in 
very  hot  weather  a  bottle  of  heat-exhaustion  restorative  should  be 
taken;  if  horses  are  soft  or  have  just  had  a  change  of  diet,  a  pint  of 
colic  drench  might  be  useful;  if  the  wagons  do  not  closely  follow 
the  column,  some  antiseptic  wash  might  be  carried.  All  articles 
of  the  field  equipment  not  carried  by  the  farrier  personally  should 
be  packed  in  a  box  of  convenient  size,  which  should  be  left  in  the 
field  wagon. 

Every  mounted  command  liable  to  go  into  the  field  unaccom- 
panied by  a  veterinarian  should  keep  on  hand  10  days'  field-service 
supply  of  such  necessary  and  simple  medicines  as  can  be  properly 
prescribed  and  administered  by  the  farrier.  Such  medicines,  for 
a  command  numbering  about  70  horses  and  mules,  would  be  about 
as  shown  in  the  table  below  under  "Medicines."  The  financial 
allowance  is  25  cents  at  home  or  30  cents  in  tropical  stations  per 
quarter  per  animal.  In  case  the  strength  is  materially  above  or 
below  70,  quantities  should  be  varied  accordingly. 

MEDICINES. 

Medicines  are  of  assistance  in  healing,  but  their  principal  pur- 
pose is  to  keep  away  outside  interference,  mostly  microbes,  from 
the  animal  while  nature  does  the  healing.  When  necessary  to  give 
medicine,  this  may  be  accomplished  by  (1)  introducing  it  through 
the  mouth  into  the  intestinal  tract,  (2)  by  inhalation  (through  the 
nostrils  or  mouth  and  the  lungs),  (3)  by  absorption  through  the 


44  DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 

skin,  (4)  by  injection  under  the  skin,  (5)  by  injection  into  and 
absorption  through  the  rectum. 

Through  the  mouth  medicine  may  be  given  in  various  ways,  viz, 
in  the  shape  of  powder  either  dry  or  dissolved  in  water  and  'then 
sprinkled  on  the  food;  an  electuary  made  by  mixing  the  medicine 
with  honey ^or  sirup  together  with  enough  dope  (some  sort  of  food) 
to  make  it  into  a  puttylike  mass,  and  this  placed  on  the  back  of 
the  tongue  with  a  paddle,  or  formed  into  a  cylindrical  form  usually 
called  a  "ball/1  about  2  inches  long  and  three-fourths  of  an  inch 
in  diameter,  wrapped  with  tissue  paper  and  placed  on  the  back  of 
the  tongue;  a  drench,  made  by  adding  the  medicines  to  water  or 
some  other  liquid  and  pouring  slowly  from  the  mouth  of  a  bottle 
placed  between  the  cheek  and  the  elevated  lower  jaw;  syringe, 
the  contents  of  which  are  squirted  onto  the  back  of  the  tongue  (this 
is  the  best  method;  see  below). 

Giving  liquid  medicines :  Fill  a  syringe  with  the  medicine.  Face 
the  horse,  take  hold  of  its  tongue  with  left  hand  (do  not  pull  the 
tongue  out,  but  simply  hold  it);  insert  nozzle  of  syringe  over 
tongue  and  squirt  the  medicine  in;  turn  loose  tongue  and  with 
left  hand  hold  horse's  head  high  until  the  sound  of  swallowing  is 
heard. 

If  a  dose  syringe  be  not  available,  " drenching"  may  be  resorted 
to,  although  as  usually  performed  this  method  is  most.y  a  waste  of 
medicine,  the  horse  usually  swallowing  little.  The  liquid  medi- 
cine should  be  placed  in  a  bottle,  preferably  one  having  no  shoul- 
ders. The  muzzle  of  the  horse  is  elevated  until  the  lower  jaw  is 
slightly  aboVe  horizontal;  this  may  be  done  by  hand  with  some 
animals,  but  others  require  the  head  to  be  drawn  up  by  a  strap  or 
rope  thrown  over  a  limb  of  a  tree  or  other  elevated  point  of  support; 
ordinarily  the  shank  attached  to  the  halter  may  be  used,  but  it  is 
better  to  use,  in  addition  to  the  halter,  a  nonslipping  loop  placed 
over  the  nose  and  in  the  mouth,  so  as  to  come  against  the  roof  of  the 
mouth  in  rear  of  front  teeth.  With  head  in  the  elevated  position, 
the  month  of  the  bottle  is  placed  between  the  molars  and  the 
incisors  (back  and  front  teeth)  and  the  contents  very  slowly  poured 
onto  the  tongue.  If  the  animal  chokes,  let  his  head  down.  Do 
not  strike  or  rub  the  throat  or  windpipe  "to  make  him  swallow. " 

Inhalation  is  used  usually  to  relieve  a  stoppage  of  the  breathing 
apparatus,  such  as  occurs  in  case  of  a  cold;  it  is  given  by  causing 
a  vapor  or  steam  to  be  breathed  into  the  lungs.  Several  arrange- 
ments can  be  made  for  accomplishing  this;  ingenuity  will  enable 
any  farrier  to  devise  some  means;  the  simplest  is  to  pour  the  steam- 
ing liquid  onto  clean  hay  in  a  sack  which  has  been  fastened  over 
the  animal's  head. 

Absorption  through  the  skin  is  accomplished  by  applying  the 
medicine  to  the  skin,  sometimes  by  standing  the  animal  in  a  tub, 
and  sometimes  by  soaking  cloths  in  the  medicine  and  applying 
with  bandages. 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 


45 


Injections  under  the  skin  are  administered  by  the  hypodermic 
syringe,  but  are  rarely  resorted  to,  and  are  given  by  a  veterinarian 
only  and  usually  for  the  purpose  of  relieving  an  animal's  suffering. 

Injections  into  the  rectum  are  resorted  to  for  the  purpose  of  clean- 
ing it  out,  or  as  a  means  of  administering  moderate  heat  in  order  to 
increase  the  circulation  in  adjacent  parts,  or  to  provide  nourish- 
ment when  the  animal  is  prevented  by  weakness,  injury,  or  other 
incapacity  (such  as  in  lockjaw)  from  taking  food  into  the  mouth, 
or  to  reduce  the  temperature  (cold  water)  in  case  of  fever. 


Ten  days'  field- 

Medicine. 

Use. 

service  supply 
for  70  animals. 

Dose. 

1.  Creolin,  Pearson.. 

Antiseptic.  . 

1  1-pound  bottle. 

For  external  use,   1 

tablespoonful  to  1 

pint  of  water;  for 

internal  use,J  to  1  ta- 

blespoonful mixed 

with  6  to  8  table- 

spoonfulsofoliveoil. 

2.  Glauber  salts  

Laxative  

2  1  -pound  cans.  . 

2  to  4  handfuls;    in 

feed  or  dissolved  in 

water  as  a  drench. 

3.  Acetanilide  in  al- 
cohol. 

Fever  reducer  

4     ounces     dis- 
solved    in    1 

Mix  on  receipt  of  in- 
gredients;   keeps 

pint   of  alco- 
hol. 

indefinitely.     (See 
under  "Colds,"  p. 

46.)      Dose,    2 

ounces;  do  not  re- 

peat     within      12 

hours. 

4.  Fluid  extract  of 

Pain  deadener  

2  ounces  

1      teaspoonful     (in 

cannabis. 

colic  mixture). 

5.  Olive  oil.  . 

Emollient 

1  quart 

2  ounces  (in  various 

6.  Cosmoline  .  .  . 

Scab  softener  

£  pound 

mixtures). 
Coating. 

7.  Castile  soap 

Cleanser 

5  pounds 

As  required. 

8.  Lugol's  solution: 

Saddle  sores, 

1  fluid  ounce  io- 

Mix on  receipt  of  in- 

Iodine, 5  parts; 

scratches,     and 

dine,  4  ounces 

gredients;    apply 

potassium     io- 
dide, 10;  water, 

eczema. 

potassium 
iodide. 

externally;     time, 
daily. 

100. 

9.  lodoform 

Disinfectant      for 

1  ounce 

Sprinkling. 

drying  up  open 

wounds. 

10.  Iodine  solution.  . 

Disinfect       fresh 

1  pint 

Pouring  onto  or  coat- 

open wounds. 

ing  of  the  exposed 

flesh. 

11.  Colic  mixture  

Abdominal  pain.  . 

Fluid      extract 

See    "Diseases,    in- 

cannabis 

ternal  colic,  "(P-  46). 

Americana,   1 

part;   creolin, 

(Pearson)  1 

part;  olive  oil, 

2  parts. 

46  DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER, 

INTERNAL  DISEASES. 

The  appetite  is  generally  a  very  good  index  of  ^he  state  of  health 
of  the  animal.  If  a  horse  refuses  to  eat  his  food  or  eats  part  only  or 
eats  laboriously,  it  is  important  to  ascertain  the  cause  as  soon  as 
possible.  The  mouth  should  be  carefully  examined  to  see  whether 
the  sharp  edges  of  the  back  teeth  have  cut  the  tongue  or  the  cheeks. 
Examine  the  front  teeth  to  determine  whether  food  has  become 
lodged  between  the  gums  and  the  teeth.  It  should  be  remembered 
that  except  in  old  horses  the  upper  gum  is  almost  level  with  the 
lower  edge  of  the  upper  teeth. 


Abdominal  pain  without  inflammation. 

Cause. — Faulty  feeding. 

Symptoms. — Sudden  attack;  paws,  looks  anxiously  at  flank,  goes 
down,  sits,  rises,  shakes  himself.  These  symptoms  more  or  less 
violent. 

Treatment. — Take  feed  away  from  reach  of  animal.  Give  a  dose 
of  "colic  mixture" — fluid  extract  cannabis  Americana,  1  teaspoon- 
ful;  creolin  (Pearson),  1  tablespoonftil ;  olive  oil  to  fill  2-ounce 
syringe. 

Rub  animal's  abdomen  with  straw  and  cover  with  blanket. 
Walk  animal  slowly  until  it  is  relieved.  Inject  lukewarm  soap 
water  in  rectum,  1  gallon  or  more.  Don't  repeat  dose  of  medicine 
before  three  hours,  even  if  animal  still  suffers.  Don't  feed  animal 
until  six  hours  after  pain  disappears.  Don't  offer  water  before 
attack  is  over  and  then  only  in  small  quantity — half  a  bucket  full. 
If  animal's  temperature  rises  it  is  indicative  of  intestinal  inflamma- 
tion and  chances  for  recovery  are  not  good.  Do  not  in  such  cases 
give  " fever  mixture,"  but  give  only  creolin  (Pearson),  1  table- 
spoonful  with  8  tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil,  and  repeat  every  fourth 
hour. 

COLD,  CATARRH,  STRANGLES,  PNEUMONIA,  INFLUENZA. 

Inflammation  of  mucous  membranes,  with  or  without  rise  of  tem- 
perature. 

Symptoms. — Dullness,  discharge  from  nostrils,  cough,  heavy 
breathing. 

Causes. — Exposure  and  infection. 

Treatment. — If  cold,  put  blanket  on.  Take  temperature  in  the 
animal's  rectum;  if  over  102°  F.,  put  animal  under  shelter,  but  be 
careful  to  keep  it  in  well-aired  place.  Give  fever  mixture:  Acet- 
anilide,  1  tablespoonful  dissolved  in  8  tablespoonfuls  alcohol,  and 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER.  47 

half  an  hour  later  give  creolin  (Pearson),  half  tablespoonful  with 
8  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil. 

Dont't  again  give  acetanilide  until  12  hours,  even  if  temperature 
is  still  above  102°  F.  Give  2  ounces  of  olive  oil  four  times  daily. 
If  swelling  shows  around  throat,  heat  a  small  quantity  of  olive  oil 
and  rub  in  on  swellling  twice  a  day;  don't  heat  the  oil  more  than 
can  be  borne  by  finger  kept  continuously  in  it.  If  lumps  appear 
under  lower  jaw  and  break  open, they  do  not^indicate  glanders. 

If  temperature  rises  to  104°  F.  or  above,  indications  are  that 
animal  has  pneumonia.  The  animal  will  then  not  lie  down  and 
breathes  quicker  than  normal. 

Let  animal  have  the  feed  it  wants  and  give  a  bran  mash  once  a 
day — not  over  1  quart  of  wheat  bran  and  only  sufficient  hot  water 
to  make  it  damp. 

DIARRHEA. 

Cause. — Change  of  water  or  food,  bad  water  or  food,  diseased 
teeth,  exposure,  exhaustion,  or  too  much  physic. 

Symptoms. — Passing  frequently  liquid  feces. 

Treatment. — Correct  the  fault  if  practicable.  Rest  the  animal. 
Give  creolin,  1  teaspoonful  in  4  tablespoonfuls  of  water  or  olive  oil. 
If  the  looseness  of  the  bowels  continues,  give  wheat  flour  stirred  in 
water.  The  animal  should  be  kept  quiet  and  made  comfortable; 
especially  if  the  weather  is  cold  keep  it  warm.  Give  less  water 
to  drink. 

WORMS. 

Disposing  cause. — Failure  to  give  salt  as  often  as  should  be,  poor 
condition. 

Symptoms. — Itching  of  upper  lip,  licking  the  hide  or  stalls,  rub- 
bing the  tail,  rough  coat,  bowels  irregular.  Occasionally  worms 
may  be  seen  in  the  feces.  There  are  many  kinds — tapeworms  and 
round  worms.  Those  ordinarily  encountered  are  round,  reddish  or 
white  and  are  about  6  to  12  inches  long  and  J  to  f  of  an  inch  in 
diameter.  Tapeworms  are  flat,  thin,  jointed,  white  in  color,  and 
vary  in  length,  sometimes  being  30  feet  long. 

Treatment. — If  possible,  keep  food  from  animal  one  day  before 
beginning  treatment  and  while  giving  it;  or  give  gruel  and  water 
only.  Give  twice  daily  for  three  days  creolin  1  ounce,  olive  oil  3 
ounces,  and  the  next  day  a  physic.  The  bot  which  lodges  in  the 
rectum  may  be  removed  by  enema  of  tobacco  water  or  weak 
creolin  (disinfectant)  twice  per  day  for  two  days  and  followed  by  a 
physic  the  next  day.  The  animal  should  receive  careful  attention 
afterwards  to  insure  his  building  up  in  strength.  See  that  the 
horses  get  the  proper  amount  of  salt  at  regular  intervals. 


48  DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 

RETENTION    OP   THE    URINE. 

Cause. — This  is  caused  by  a  contraction  of  the  mouth  of  the 
bladder  which  occurs  when  the  bladder  is  irritated  or  when  a  foreign 
body  gets  into  the  canal  or — most  frequently — when  the  fecal 
matter  in  the  rectum  accumulates  and  gets  hard  and  presses  on  the 
canal  from  above.  The  bladder  lies  just  under  the  rectum;  it  is 
gourd -shaped  with  the  handle  or  neck  immediately  under  the  anus; 
the  outlet  is  immediately  under  the  anus  in  the  mare  and  in  the 
horse  through  the  urethra  which  runs  down  between  the  hind  legs 
just  beneath  the  skin  to  the  male  organ. 

Symptoms. — The  animal  may  be  in  great  pain,  in  which  case  he 
acts  quite  the  same  as  when  affected  with  the  colic.  He  spraddles 
his  hind  legs,  strains,  and  tries  to  pass  water. 

Treatment. — The  hand  and  fore  arm,  well  oiled  or  soap-lathered, 
should  be  inserted  in  the  rectum  when  it  will  be  easy  to  feel  if  the 
bladder  is  distended.  The  rectum  should  first  be  thoroughly 
cleaned  by  an  enema  (about  a  gallon  of  warm  and  soapy  water 
injection),  after  which  it  should  be  thoroughly  examined  to  see 
that  all  matter  is  removed.  Then  a  very  gentle  massaging  of  the 
mouth  of  the  bladder  by  the  hand  in  the  rectum — using  plenty  of 
oil — may  relieve  the  irritation.  Do  not  give  sweet  spirits  of  niter 
(which  is  usually  prescribed),  for  it  only  further  irritates  the 
urinary  system.  Wash  the  sheath  and  the  outlet  thoroughly.  If 
the  patient  be  a  mare,  the  fingers  may  be  oiled  and  inserted  in  the 
urethra,  and  possibly  the  opening  thus  enlarged  sufficiently  to 
permit  the  water  to  now.  In  the  male  the  only  way,  if  those  sug- 
gested fail  after  several  hours'  trial,  to  relieve  the  pressure  of  the 
water  in  the  bladder  is  by  passing  a  catheter — but  this  requires  the 
skilled  veterinarian.  Often  the  throwing  and  shaking  of  a  little 
straw  under  the  horse  will  induce  the  discharge  of  urine.  A  little 
soap  on  the  point  of  the  penis  will  frequently  produce  the  same 
effect. 

EXCESSIVE    URINATING. 

Cause. — Feeding  of  moldy  grain  and  hay. 

Treatment. — Remove  cause.  Give  animal  a  pint  of  olive  oil 
twice  a  day  for  two  days.  If  no  sound  feed  can  be  obtained,  have 
the  moldy  grain  or  hay  spread  in  open  air,  but  protected  against 
rain. 

HEAT    EXHAUSTION,    SUNSTROKE,    THERMIC    FEVER. 

Symptoms. — Muscular  weakness.  Heart's  action  feeble,  pulse 
rapid,  general  depression,  collapse. 

Cause. — Prolonged  exertion  in  hot  atmosphere. 

Treatment. — Rest  animal.  If  no  rise  of  temperature,  give  stimu- 
lants such  as  alcohol  in  small  often-repeated  doses — J  ounce  every 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER.  49 

half  hour.  Rub  the  body  and  limbs;  give  warm  bath.  If  tempera- 
ture is  high  (over  104°  F.),  give  cold  water  bath,  place  ice  on  head, 
rub  body  and  legs.  Give  internally  double  dose  of  "fever  mix- 
ture" (see  p.  45).  Cold-water  enema  (injection  of  water  into  the 
rectum) . 

EXTERNAL  DISEASES. 

(See  Pis.  I,  II,  and  III.) 

Most  of  the  external  diseases  coming  to  the  attention  consist 
either  of  lameness,  local  irritation,  skin  diseases  or  abscesses.     In 
some  cases  (such  as  founder)  the  disease  is  really  internal,  but  the  * 
treatment  is  taken  up  under  this  heading  for  convenience. 

LAMENESS. 

Find  leg  that  animal  favors.  Trot  him  off;  he  will  step  lightly  on 
the  lame  leg,  raising  the  head  and  lame  leg  together  if  lame  in 
front,  and  plant  the  other  foot  harder. 

The  degree  of  lameness  varies  from  being  hardly  perceptible,  to 
one  where  the  animal  does  not  put  the  foot  to  the  ground.  Some 
forms  of  lameness  will  show  less  after  the  animal  has  been  exer- 
cised awhile;  in  other  cases  the  animal  will  show  more  lameness. 
The  former  generally  indicates  something  wrong  with  tendons,  the 
latter  of  the  joints.  Never  forget  to  examine  the  hoof  for  punctures 
by  picked-up  nails,  pieces  of  glass,  or  small,  sharp  rocks  wedged 
between  shoe  and  frog.  Examine  shoe  and  shoe  nails.  Tap  with 
hammer  on  heads  of  nails  and  if  the  animal  shows  pain,  have  shoe 
removed.  If  pulsation  can  be  noticed  by  putting  hand  on  space 
between  canon  bone  and  tendons  about  half  distance  from  the  knee 
to  fetlock  (ankle)  joint,  it  is  likely  that  the  cause  for  lameness  is  to 
be  found  in  the  hoof.  After  the  thorough  examination  of  the  hoof 
has  shown  no  cause  for  the  lameness,  proceed  with  the  examination 
to  the  joints,  tendons,  bones,  and  muscles.  Notice  any  swelling, 
soreness,  enlargement,  or  wounds.  If  the  cause  is  then  not  ap- 
parent, pull  the  shoe  and  examine  the  nails.  If  damp  the  indi- 
cations are  that  the  nail  has  penetrated  the  sensitive  hoof.  If  so, 
the  nail  hole  should  be  thoroughly  disinfected,  openings  packed, 
and  re-dressed  from  day  to  day  until  animal  recovers. 

Don't  forget  to  find  out  how  long  animal  has  been  lame. 

PUNCTURE    OF   THE    HOOF. 

Treatment. — Thin  the  horn  around  the  injured  place  so  that  pus 
can  have  outlet;  then  cleanse  hoof  with  creolin  solution,  pack 
hoof  with  cotton  or  oakum  well  saturated  with  pure,  undiluted 

76881°— 15 -4 


50  DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 

creolin  and  held  in  place  by  doubled  sack  wrapped  around  hoof 
and  tied  between  ankle  and  hoof.  Be  careful  not  to  tie  so  tight  as 
to  cut  off  circulation  in  the  leg.  Dress  once  a  day  until  animal 
shows  no  lameness;  then  put  on  shoe,  but  have  leather  sole  put 
between  hoof  and  shoe. 

FOUNDER    OR   LAMINITIS. 

Congestion  and  inflammation  in  the  hoofs.  Usual  in  front  hoofs, 
but  sometimes  in  all  hoofs. 

Symptoms. — Stiff  walk,  hind  feet  put  forward  under  body. 
Pulsation  marked  above  affected  feet. 

Causes. — Overfeeding,  change  of  feed  from  one  kind  of  grain 
to  another;  exhaustion  on  long  marches,  especially  when  horses 
are  unaccustomed  to  it. 

Treatment. — Give  a  laxative,  as  Glauber  salts,  4  to  8  handfuls 
dissolved  in  water,  or  1  to  2  quarts  of  olive  oil.  Don't  give  any 
grain  feed;  if  animal  is  hungry,  give  bran  mash.  Place  animal 
wilh  feet  in  cold  water  and  give  slow  exercise  every  hour  for 
from  5  to  10  minutes.  Don't  remove  shoes  on  horse. 

SPRAINS. 

Sprains  of  joints  and  tendons  are  treated  with  cold  water  at 
first;  this  must  be  continued  as  long  as  part  feels  hot  by  touch. 
Then  bathe  with  warm  water  or,  better,  use  a  hot- water  poultice. 

Hot-water  poultice  is  made  by  taking  a  piece  of  a  clean  oat 
sack  large  enough,  when  folded,  to  go  twice  around  the  joint. 
Soak  sack  cloth  in  as  hot  water  as  the  hands  can  bear,  wring  and 
place  it  around  the  affected  part,  hold  it  in  position  by  a  4-iridj 
wide  cotton  bandage.  Bandages  must  be  changed  at  least  once 
a  day;  hot-water  bandage  should  be  taken  off  before  it  gets  cool. 
It  is  useless  to  try  to  bandage  at  places  on  the  legs  above  knee 
or  hock.  Warm  oil  can  be  used  with  advantage  in  case  a  sprain 
has  existed  for  several  days.  The  use  of  either  liniment,  blister, 
or  firing  is  inadvisable. 

Massage  is  useful  and  advisable  when  the  skin  is  unbroken. 
Massage  consists  of  rubbing  with  the  hands,  and  it  should  be  done 
in  a  direction  toward  the  heart,  but  it  must  not  be  continued 
after  the  skin  gets  irritated. 

DRY   HOOFS. 

Under  ordinaiy  stable  conditions  the  hoofs  will  become  dry 
and  will  crack.  The  animal  should  be  stood  in  water  for  several 
hours  each  day  or  hoofs  packed  with  well-moistened  clay. 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER.  51 

CONTRACTED    HEELS. 

Caused  by  bad  shoeing.     (See  under  "Shoeing.") 


Cause. — This  disease  is  generally  due  to  dampness  accompanied 
by  filth. 

Symptoms. — The  seat  of  the  disease  is  in  the  center  crack  or 
cleft  of  the  frog,  which  at  first  shows  dampness  and  has  an  offensive 
smell.  This  dampness  develops  into  a  discharge  which  is  watery 
at  first,  but  soon  changes  to  a  thicker  and  heavier  colored  con- 
sistency. Lameness  does  not  result  at  first,  but  if  not  attended  to 
the  crack  gets  very  deep,  the  frog  becomes  more  and  more  affected 
and  withers  away,  the  heel  becomes  contracted,  and  lameness 
finally  results. 

Treatment. — Bathe  thoroughly  with  creolin  wash;  remove  the 
affected  portions  carefully;  pack  with  creolin-soaked  oakum  or 
cotton  and  bandage  this  on  well.  Renew  the  treatment  daily 
until  cured. 


Cause. — This  is  a  malignant  growth  which  begins  between  the 
bar  and  the  frog  and  spreads  to  the  sole. between  the  horny  and 
the  fleshy  part.  Dampness  does  not  cause  it,  but  it  does  provide 
the  conditions  which  are  almost  essential  to  the  commencement 
and  which  favor  the  continuation  of  the  disease.  Filthy  stand- 
ing places — especially  stables  which  are  not  cleaned — and  bruises 
of  the  frog  or  the  sole  are  favorable  conditions  for  the  disease  to 
get  a  foothold. 

Symptoms. — It  differs  from  thrush  in  that  thrush  attacks  the 
frog  and  is  accompanied  by  a  discharge  from  the  cleft  or  the  center 
crack  of  the  frog,  while  the  former  begins  where  the  frog  joins 
onto  the  sole  and  spreads  rapidly  to  the  entire  foot.  It  is  prac- 
tically a  rotting  away  of  the  sole  accompanied  by  a  watery  dis- 
charge. Small  cheeselike  growths  of  new — apparently  healthy — 
horn  grow  out  but  they  soon  break  out  and  decay.  The  discharge 
is  very  offensive  to  the  smell. 

Treatment. — This  is  a  very  serious  disease  which  is  puzzling 
to  even  those  most  skilled  in  veterinary  science.  Some  think  it 
is  a  parasite,  others  believe  it  to  be  very  similar  to  cancer.  A 
veterinarian  should  be  called  at  the  first  opportunity.  Until 
one  can  be  secured  the  foot  should  be  cleaned,  diseased  parts 
removed,  and  the  foot  packed  with  full-strength  creolin  and  the 


52  DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 

foot  encased  in  sack.     The  animal  should  be  placed  on  a  footing  of 
dry  sand. 

This  disease  is  contagious,  and  great  care  should  be  taken  to 
see  that  other  animals  are  protected  against  standing  in  the  place 
formerly  occupied  by  a  diseased  horse,  and  the  diseased  animal 
should  have  the  unaffected  feet  kept  from  contamination.  (See 
" Disinfectants,"  p.  — .) 


Is  a  swelling,  at  first  hard  and  firm,  painful  on  pressure;  gradu- 
ally the  center  bulges  and  a  softening  is  felt.  This  may  occur  in 
many  places — such  as  on  the  poll,  called  "poll  evil" — but  the 
treatment  is  essentially  the  same. 

Treatment. — Apply  warm  olive  oil  twice  a  day  until  fluctuation 
is  detected ;  after  the  area  has  been  washed  with  warm  water  and 
castile  soap  and  rinsed  with  pure  water  or  an  antiseptic  solution, 
open  with  curved  bistoury.  Don't  make  too  large  an  opening 
but  one  sufficiently  large  that  the  pus  may  flow.  Then  syringe 
out  cavity  with  antiseptic  solution  and  apply  oil  around  opening. 
Keep  area  clean. 

SORE  EYES. 

Swelling  of  eyelids  caused  by  injury  is  best  treated  with  a  weak 
solution  of  creolin  (Pearson),  10  drops  in  J  pint  of  lukewarm  water. 
Repeat  wash  every  hour.  If  eyeball  is  clouded,  see  to  it  that  the 
solution  gets  on  the  eyeball. 

DISEASES  OF  THE  SKIN. 

SCRATCHES. 

A  cracking  of  the  skin  between  the  fetlock  and  the  heels.  Some 
horses  are  predisposed  to  this  disease,  especially  horses  with  long- 
haired fetlocks.  Moisture  and  mud  are  causative  agents.  Clean- 
liness is  the  most  important  part  of  the  treatment  and  it  should 
be  remembered  that  cold  water  should  not  be  used  for  washing 
of  the  affected  parts.  Use  lukewarm  soap  water,  rinse  off  with 
pure  boiled  and  cooled  water,  and  wipe  very  dry  with  cotton  or 
clean  linen  rag.  Apply  a  thin  cover  of  vaseline,  lanolin,  or  grease, 
to  which  has  been  added  a  little  creolin  or  iodine.  During  winter 
campaigns  in  country  where  the  soil  becomes  deep  mud,  do  not 
clip  the  hairs  on  fetlocks  as  they  are  a  protection  for  the  delicate 
skin,  and  it  is  far  better  to  let  the  mud  dry  and  brush  it  off  than  to 
wash. 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER.  53 

MANGE,  ECZEMA,  AND    LICE. 

These  are  affections  of  the  skin,  and  they  attack  all  parts  of  the 
body.  They  are  manifested  by  itching  and  the  hair  falling  out. 
Mange  is  caused  by  a  small  mite  that  lives  in  the  skin,  and  the 
irritation  set  up  causes  a  secretion  that  dries  and  forms  scabs. 
Eczema,  caused  by  fungi,  is  detected  in  shape  of  small  or  large 
pimples  causing  itch  and  falling  out  of  hair.  Lice  are  parasites 
that  live  on  the  skin  and  can  be  seen  best  when  the  horse  is  taken 
in  sunshine. 

Treatment. — Attention  must  first  be  directed  to  destroying  the 
parasites  ^without  injuring  the  skin.  A  soap  wash  to  which  is  added 
coal  oil  (1  to  10)  is  very  good.  It  must  be  left  on  the  animal  for 
one  day,  and  during  this  time  the  animal  should  not  be  exposed 
to  the  sun.  Then  wash  with  plain  soap  water,  rinse  with  pure 
water,  and  dry  the  horse  with  straw  or  clean  rags. 

Ticks  are  often  encountered,  being  usually  picked  up  from 
bushes,  and  if  a  horse  is  in  poor  flesh  they  will  be  found  very 
troublesome  to  get  rid  of.  They  should  not  be  pulled  off,  for  the 
head  will  generally  remain  fast  and  will,  if  left,  cause  irritation 
and  sores;  turpentine  or  carbolic  water  or  a  heated  knife  or  nail 
will  cause  them  to  let  go. 

BITES. 

For  bites  of  poisonous  reptiles  or  insects  apply  ammonia  water. 
It  may  also  be  given  internally,  but  very  diluted  when  the  bite  is 
that  of  a  snake.  Strong  solution  of  creolin  may  be  used. 

INJURIES. 

Injuries  may  be  grouped  into  two  classes — wounds  and  contu- 
sions. 

A  wound  is  a  separating  of  organic  tissue  caused  by  mechanic 
action  that  pierces  the  external  covering  (skin,  mucous  membrane). 
Wounds  may  be  considered  according  to  the  cause,  form,  and  the 
danger  of  the  injury. 

A  cut  wound  is  caused  by  a  sharp  instrument  or  the  like,  and  is 
marked  by  its  smooth  edges  and  extension  lengthwise. 

A  stab  wound  has  the  greatest  extension  in  depth  and  is  caused 
by  a  pointed  instrument. 

A  contused  wound  is  a  wound  where  the  separating  of  the  tissue 
is  caused  by  an  instrument  that  acted  by  pressure  and  crushing  or 
tearing,  and  where  there  is  more  or  less  blood  infiltration  (swelling) 
in  adjacent  tissue.  The  contused  wound  has  not  the  smooth 
bleeding  surface  of  the  cut  wound,  often  no  bleeding  at  all,  and 
has  irregular  form  with  ragged  edges. 


54  DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 

WOUND    INFECTION    AND    HEALING. 

In  a  wound,  the  tissue  that  was  protected  by  the  skin  comes  in 
contact  with  the  air  or  with  external  bodies,  and  is  liable  to  be 
contaminated  or  infected  by  pathogenic  (disease  producing)  germs 
which  influence  the  process  of  repair  which  the  animal  system 
starts  almost  immediately  the  injury  is  inflicted. 

Treatment. — The  first  step  in  the  treatment  of  a  wound  is  the 
cleansing  by  which  foreign  bodies  in  the  wound  are  removed. 
Stopping  the  hemorrhage  (bleeding)  must  be  considered  also. 

The  cleansing  is  done  byx  applying  an  antiseptic  solution,  as 
creoline  (1  part  to  25  parts  water),  or  carbolic  (phenol)  acid,  1  part 
to  20  parts  water,  or  corrosive  sublimate  (mercuric  chloride),  1  to 
1,000,  or  tincture  of  iodine,  or  simply  sterilized  (boiled)  and  cooled 
water.  A  syringe  can  be  used  for  this  purpose  with  advantage. 
Do  not  use  a  sponge,  but  instead  use  a  plug  of  absorbent  cotton, 
and  this  should  be  thrown  away  after  use.  Foreign  bodies,  as 
splinters,  straw,  hair,  etc.,  must  be  carefully  removed;  an  artery 
forceps  is  very  handy.  In  a  shot  wound  a  bullet  extractor  is  useful. 

Hemorrhage  (bleeding)  is  either  from  very  small  blood  vessels 
(capillary)  or  from  larger  blood  vessels.  The  capillary  bleeding 
will  soon  cease  and  will  rather  assist  in  the  cleansing  of  the  wound. 
When  larger  vessels  have  been  cut,  a  stopping  will  be  necessary 
and  can  be  effected  by  torsion  (twisting)  of  the  blood  vessel  with 
the  artery  forceps  or  by  ligation  (tying  a  string  around  the  bleeding 
artery). 

After  the  wound  has  been  cleansed  it  must  be  decided  whether 
healing  by  first  intention  (that  is,  an  immediate  union  of  the  parts 
without  suppuration)  is  possible  or  healing  by  granulation,  is  to 
take  place.  The  question  must  be  considered  as  to  whether  an 
open  treatment  of  the  wound  or  a  covering  by  bandages  is  prefer- 
able. 

The  healing  by  first  intention  can  rarely  be  expected  in  horse  or 
mule,  and  therefore  suturing  (sewing  up)  should  only  be  resorted 
to  in  cut  wounds  where  no  loss  of  tissue  has  occurred.  The  inten- 
tion with  the  suture  is  to  bring  the  edges  of  the  wound  in  contact 
and  hold  them  so,  firmly.  Sutures  must  therefore  be  put  rather 
deep  and  each  stitch  tied  in  a  knot.  At  certain  parts  of  the  body 
this  healing  seems  to  take  place  easier  than  on  others,  for  example, 
the  eyelids  and  lips.  The  most  common  way  of  wound  healing  is 
by  granulation;  that  is,  by  formation  of  new  organized  growth  of 
tissue.  The  healing  should  take  place  with  least  possible  suppera- 
tion  (pus  discharge),  and  to  obtain  this  the  disease-producing  germs 
already  in  the  wound  should  be  destroyed  by  the  use  of  antiseptic 
wash.  Do  not  use  too  strong  antiseptics,  as  they  will  destroy  sound 
tissue  and  create  a  favorable  soil  for  the  disease-producing  germs. 


DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER.  55 

Keep  the  wound  well  protected  from  further  contamination  and 
have  the  wound  well  drained,  so  that  no  pus  or  secretion  from  the 
wound  is  retained.  This  is  done  by  placing  a  thoroughly  sterilized 
(boiled)  strip  of  cloth  in  the  wound  letting  the  end  stick  out  of  the 
wound.  The  protection  of  the  wound  can  be  accomplished  either 
by  a  bandage  or  by  an  antiseptic  dusting  powder  that  will  form  a 
scab.  Sometimes  the  granulations  will  grow  too  freely  and  will 
have  to  be  checked  so  they  do  not  protrude  in  the  wound  (form 
proud  flesh).  This  can  be  done  by  caustics  as  bluestone  or  by  a 
hot  iron. 

CONTUSION  (BRUISES). 

By  this  is  understood  a  disease  process  caused  by  undue  com- 
press of  organic  tissue,  and  generally  without  the  skin's  being 
broken.  As  a  rule  the  force  is  from  outside  (kick  and  pressure). 

The  extent  of  the  contusion  depends  on  the  force,  the  direction 
from  which  it  is  inflicted,  and  the  duration  of  the  time  in  which 
the  cause  acts. 

By  a  si  ight  contusion  we  only  notice  the  swelling  caused  by  blood 
that  comes  in  the  tissue  from  the  broken  smaller  or  larger  blood 
vessels,  and  this  will,  if  not  exposed  to  new  cause,  soon  be  absorbed. 
Bathing  with  cold  water  or  a  cold-water  compress  will  assist  the 
resorption. 

The  two  forms  of  contusion  that  are  of  most  importance  in  the 
Army  Service  are  those  caused  by  pressure  of  saddle  and  harness 
(saddle  and  harness  galls),  or  the  aparejo,  and  by  kicks  from  other 
animals. 

Prevention  is  better  than  cure.  No  mounted  man  must  ever  be 
negligent  in  saddl  ing  nor  driver  in  harnessing  his  horses  or  mules. 
Therefore  great  care  should  be  taken  to  examine  animals  when  the 
saddle  or  harness  is  taken  off.  Give  attention  to  any  swelling  or 
skin  abrasion.  When  found,  wash  the  part  at  once  with  soap  and 
water,  and  rinse  with  cold  water  and  then  bathe  with  cool  creolin 
water.  Repeat  this  treatment  every  hour  and  the  swelling  will 
ordinarily  soon  disappear.  See  that  next  time  the  saddle  or  harness 
is  put  on  the  horse  that  no  pressure  comes  to  the  injured  part. 

If  the  swelling  does  not  disappear  by  this  treatment,  use  bathing 
with  warm  water  or  hot  water  poultice.  If  part  of  the  skin  is  so 
badly  injured  as  to  show  signs  of  mortification  (partial  death), 
and  a  poultice  will  not  remove  it,  this  mortified  part  must  be  cut 
away  by  a  knife.  Turpentine  mixed  with  flour,  equal  parts, 
made  to  a  paste  and  applied  to  the  mortified  part  will  usually 
remove  it.  After  the  dead  tissue  is  removed,  treat  as  a  wound. 

Contusions  caused  by  kick  should  be  treated  by  bathing  with 
cold  or  warm  creolin  solution  and,  if  complicated  with  wound,  as 
already  advised. 


56  DUTIES  OF  THE  FARRIER. 

Contusions  are  sometimes  caused  by  man's  abuse  of  forks,  sticks, 
whips,  and  spurs.  To  prevent  this  we  can  only  remind  those  that 
can  not  control  their  bad  temper  that  they  are  unfit  for  handling 
animals  and  are  deserving  of  severe  punishment. 

Rope  burns  and  injuries  from  interfering  are  contused  wounds 
and  should  be  treated  as  such.  The  first  mentioned  is  due  to  care- 
less hitching — too  long. 

Interfering — the  striking  of  one  foot  against  the  other  in  travel- 
ing— is  due  mostly  to  careless  shoeing  but  sometimes  to  faulty 
conformation  and  action  or  to  weakness.  Young  horses  in  poor 
condition  will  often  interfere  as  soon  as  they  get  tired.  The  shoeing 
should  be  observed,  to  see  that  no  part  of  the  shoe  protrudes  on  the 
inside  of  the  hoof  and  that  the  clinches  of  the  nails  are  made  level 
with  the  wall  of  the  hoof.  In  an  emergency — on  the  march — a 
twisted  hay  or  straw  band  wrapped  around  the  fetlock  below 
the  joint  on  the  injured  leg  will  prevent  further  injury. 

Shot  wounds  are  essentially  contused  wounds,  and  they  are 
treated  accordingly.  Tincture  of  iodine  is  especially  effective  in 
such  cases. 


CHAPTER  III. 


WAGONER  OR  TEAMSTER. 


Wagoner's  Chevron. 

The  wagoner  or  teamster  is  responsible  for  his  team,  harness,  and 
wagon,  with  tools  and  repair  parts.  The  condition  in  which  he 
keeps  them  is  a  measure  of  his  efficiency.  Keep  your  animals  in 
good  flesh,  clean,  and  free  from  lameness  and  bunches  or  boils, 
and  get  your  load  to  the  destination  and  you  will  be  a  successful 
driver.  Excuses  do  not  go.  If  anything  happens  which  you  think 
might  excuse  you  for  not  getting  your  load  to  the  desired  point, 
remember  that  it  only  makes  hungry  men  madder  if  you  tall  them 
you ' '  broke  the  harness  "  or  "  lost  the  axle  nut "  or  your  ' '  mule  lost  a 
shoe"  or  "shoulders  got  sore."  Unless  you  "get  there  "  some  way, 
they  will  brand  you  "no  good,"  and  you  can  not  always  get  there 
unless  you  keep  your  outfit  always  in  first-class  shape. 

Feed  and  water  your  mules  before  you  do  yourself.  Look  over 
their  feet  every  morning  the  first  thing  and  every  evening  af tar  you 
unhitch;  clean  them  out  and  see  if  the  shoes  are  loose.  It  is  a  good 
idea  to  tap  the  shoes  lightly  with  a  knife  handle  or  hammer;  if  the 
animal  flinches  there  is  something  wrong. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  in  making  crossings  such  as  bridges 
(especially  ponton),  fords,  and  ditches.  A  swift-moving  load 
causes  about  twice  the  strain  on  a  bridge  as  does  a  stationary  or 
slow-moving  one. 

Before  passing  a  swollen  stream  with  a  team  it  should  be  exam- 
ined by  wading  or  by  riding  an  animal  across.  If  the  team  should 
happen  to  get  beyond  its. depth,  release  the  animals  by  cutting  the 
top  hame  straps  and  the  check  lines;  if  practicable  the  bellybands 
also  should  be  cut. 

In  pulling  heavy  loads  or  in  heavy  ground  if  there  is  any  liability 
of  the  team's  stopping,  stop  the  animals  yourself  before  they  get 
stalled.  Many  animals  will  not  pull  again  on  a  load  in  the  same 
place  where  they  have  met  with  a  resistance  which  has  impressed 

57 


58  WAGONER  OR  TEAMSTER. 

them  as  insurmountable.  If  the  team  should  get  stuck,  it  may  be 
induced  to  try  again  by  turning  the  tongue  slightly  to  the  right  or 
left  and  then  getting  all  off  together. 

In  starting  a  team  with  a  heavy  load  or  in  any  situation  where  it 
is  necessary  to  get  the  united  power  of  the  animals,  the  reins  should 
be  held  fairly  tight  so  that  the  animals  may  be  made  to  feel  the  aid 
and  guidance  of  the  driver. 

Draft  animals  should  never  be  driven  out  of  a  walk.  Those  used 
on  buckboards,  spring  wagons,  and  other  light  vehicles,  and  which 
are  usually  specially  chosen  for  the  purpose,  may  be  driven  at  a 
trot  when  necessary. 

Army  transportation  by  animals  consists  of  pack  mule  (see  p. 
96),  spring  wagon,  ambulance,  escort  wagon  (see  PI.  IX  to  XV) 
and  "Army  six"  (see  PL  XII). 

The  complete  equipment  of  spare  parts  and  accessories  for  the 
escort  wagons  and  teams  is  as  follows: 

ESCORT    WAGON    AND    HARNESS,    COMPLETE    SET. 

1  wagon,  escort,  includes  running  gear,  wagon  Jbody,  1  tongue,  1 
doubletree,  1  lead  bar,  4  singletrees,  6  bows,  2  chains  lock,  1  wagon 
cover,  1  jockey  box,  and  1  tool  box,  each  with  padlock  and  key; 
1  driver's  seat  and  1  axle  wrench  (total  weight  2,000  pounds). 

Wa  g(  >n  equipment : 

Wagon  pa.-ts,  extra  (total  weight  106  pounds) — 

2  blocks,  brake.1 

1  bolt,  king.1 
Bolts,  tire — 

1  iby  2f  inches.1 
5  I  by  3  inches.1 

Bolts,  wagon — 

2  J  by  1|  inches.1 
2  ^  by  If  inches.1 

1  -f$  by  2  inches.1 

2  A  by  2  J  inches.1 
2  |  by  3  inches.1 

1  £  by  11  inches.1 
4  f  by  4  inches.1 

3  links,  open.1 

2  nuts,  axle.1 
1  reach.2 

6  rivets,  iron,  -f^  by  1^  inches.1 

4  rivets,  iron,  |  by  1J  inches.1 
1  tongue.2 

1  tree,  double  (carried  bolted  to  coupling  pole). 
1  tree,  single.1 

i  Carried  in  oscillating  tool  box.         2  Carried  on  left  side  of  wagon  body. 


WAGONER  OR  TEAMSTER. 


60 


WAGONER   OR  TEAMSTER. 


WAGONER   OR  TEAMSTER. 


61 


62 


WAGONER  OR  TEAMSTER. 


WAGONER  OR  TEAMSTER. 


WAGONER  OR  TEAMSTER. 


WAGONER  OR  TEAMSTER. 


65 


76881° — 15- 


66  WAGONER   OR  TEAMSTER. 

Wagon  equipment — Continued. 

Wagon  accessories  (total  weight  83  pounds): 
1  ax  and  helve.1 
4  bags,  nose.1 
1  brush,  horse.1 
1  bucket,  galvanized  iron.1 
1  comb,  curry.1 

1  globe,  lantern  (earned  in  lantern).1 
4  grease,  axle,  pounds.1 
4  halters,  and  straps.1 
1  lantern,  combination.1 
1  pickax  and  helve.1 
150  rope,  J-inch,  feet.1 
1  spade.1 

1  whip,  carried  in  socket. 
1  wick,  lantern  (carried  in  lantern).1 
1  wrench,  monkey.1 
1  twine,  ball.1 
(For  winter  use,  whon  authorized,  1  blanket-lined  cover 

for  each  mule.) 
Harness: 

2  lead,  s.  s.  (72  pounds),  carried  on  mules. 
2  wheel,  s.  s.  (90  pounds),  carried  on  mules. 
Harness  equipment — 

Harness  parts,  extra  (total  weight  8£  pounds) — 
1  buckle  f-inch.2 
1  buckle,  J-inch.2 
1  buckle,  1-inch.2 

1  buckle,  2-inch.2 

2  clips,  trace.1 

2  hames.1 

1  ring,  f-inch.2 
1  ring,  1-inch.2 
1  ring,  IJ-inch.2 
1  ring,  2-inch.2 
1  snap,  1-inch.2 
1  snap,  1  J-inch.2 
1  snap,  2-inch.2 

3  straps,  hame.1 

Harness  accessories  (total  weight  6  pounds) — 
^  gallon  oil,  neat's  foot.1 
1  pound  soap,  harness.1 
1  sponge.1 
1  wire,  stove,  spool.2 

1  Carried  in  oscillating  tool  box.  2  Carried  in  jockey  box. 


WAGONER  OR  TEAMSTER. 


67 


Harness — Continued. 

Additional  supplies  to  be  carried  in  wagon,  which  are  not  in- 
cluded in  the  " complete  set."  These  supplies  are  provided  and 
maintained  by  organizations: 

128  nails,  horseshoe,  number  (1-pound).1 
16  shoes,  mule,  fitted,  number  (16  pounds).1 
In  campaign  (F.  S.  R.  302): 
36  grain,  reserve,  pounds.2 
2  rations,  reserve,  number.2 

The  foregoing  list  of  articles  is  prescribed  for  each  escort  wagon 
and  team  wherever  used.  The  oscillating  tool  box  may  be  fitted 
on  the  escort  wagon  of  any  model. 

Wheels,  extra :  One  wagon  of  each  regimental  field  train — prefer- 
ably the  most  lightly  laden  grain  wagon — will  be  equipped  with 
one  extra  hind  wheel  in  addition  to  the  usual  wagon  equipment. 

For  each  mule-drawn  vehicle  of  the  combat  trains  of  engineers 
and  signal  troops,  two  single  sets  of  wheel  harness  and  as  many 
single  sets  of  lead  harness  as  there  are  lead  mules  (see  Tables  of 
Organization,  1914),  are  provided;  the  extra  parts  of  the  harness 
and  the  harness  accessories  are,  for  4-mule  teams,  as  prescribed 
under  escort  wagons;  for  6-mule  teams,  multiply  by  1J.  The  extra 
parts  of  the  wagons  are  not  supplied  by  the  Quartermaster  Corps. 
The  remaining  wagon  accessories  supplied  are  limited  to  the  fol- 
lowing: 


Articles. 

For  4-mulc 
wagon. 

For  6-mule 
wagon. 

Bags,  nose 

4 

6 

Brushes,  horse  

1 

2 

Combs,  curry. 

1 

2 

Grease,  axle,  pounds  

4 

6 

Halters  and  straps 

4 

6 

Whip 

1 

1 

(For  winter  use,   when  especially  authorized,   1  blanket-lined 
cover  for  each  mule.) 


1  Carried  in  jockey  box. 


2  Carried  in  oscillating  tool  box. 


68  WAGONER  OR  TEAMSTER. 

HARNESS. 

The  subjects  of  description,  methods  of  cleaning,  caring  for,  and 
repairing  of  harness  are  covered  under  the  heading  of  the  duties 
of  the  saddler. 

CARE  OF  WAGON. 

The  principal  effort  required  to  keep  a  wagon  in  order  is  the 
daily  examination  of  all  nuts  to  see  that  they  are  tight,  and  greasing 
the  wheels  about  every  30  miles.  Even  if  the  wagon  is  used 
but  little,  the  axles  should  be  examined  twice  a  week  at  least. 
The  4  pounds  of  axle  grease  furnished  with  the  escort  wagon 
should  last  about  a  month.  In  greasing,  remove  the  old  grease, 
because,  if  not,  the  dirt  and  sand  will  accumulate  and  cause  a 
"hot  box,'*  and  completely  disable  the  wagon,  make  you  late 
getting  in,  and  cause  a  lot  of  trouble. 

To  grease  a  wagon  without  using  a  wagon  jack:  Remove  the  axle 
nut  (remember  that  the  nuts  on  the  right  side  are  right  handed  and 
those  on  the  left  are  left  handed).  Get  a  board  or  a  stick  slightly 
longer  than  the  distance  from  the  axle  to  the  ground .  Place  one  end 
on  the  ground  and  inside  the  wheel,  the  other  end  leaning  toward 
the  wheel;  place  this  upper  end  under  a  spoke  which  is  about 
horizontal  (level).  Then  raise  the  wheel  slightly  by  lifting  care- 
fully on  the  spoke  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  wheel,  when,  if  it  has 
been  greased  often  enough,  the  weight  of  the  wagon  will  cause  the 
wheel  to  slide  down  the  spindle.  Be  careful  the  wheel  doesn't 
get  more  than  three-fourths  of  the  way  off;  however,  the  wheel 
should  be  taken  off  far  enough  to  get  the  old  grease  off.  This 
method  will  not  work  if  the  axles  have  not  been  kept  properly 
greased. 

To  put  on  the  wheel,  reverse  the  process,  placing  the  stick  on  the 
outside.  Needless  to  say,  though,  the  wheel  will  not  run  on  (like 
it  does  off),  but,  with  the  inclination  of  the  stick  and  slight  pres- 
sure on  the  wheel  (toward  the  wagon),  it  will  go  on. 

It  is  also  unnecessary  to  remark  that  the  nearer  the  upper  end 
of  the  stick  is  placed  to  the  hub,  the  less  power  it  will  take  to  lift 
the  wheel  off  the  ground. 


WAGONER  OR  TEAMSTER. 


69 


REPAIRS  TO  WAGONS. 


For  each  regiment,  wagon  company,  ambulance  company, 
engineer  train,  engineer  battalion,  and  signal  corps  battalion 
(those  organizations  having  a  large  number  of  wagons)  is  issued,  by 
the  Quartermaster  Corps,  a  set  of  carpenters'  and  wheelwrights' 
tools,  as  follows  (PI.  XVI): 


Figure. 


Article. 


Number. 


1  Axe,  hand  * 

2  Auger,  hollow,  adjustable,  i-inch  to  11-inch 

3  Bits,  auger,  •&,  i,*  g,  £,*  |,  f  ,*  |,  1  inch 

4  Bit,  screw  driver  * 

5  Brace,  ratchet,  12-inch  * 

6  Calipers,  pair 

7  Chisels,  socket,  firmer,  \ ,  |,  J;  f,  \*  1, 1£,  2  inch. 

8  Files,  saw,  taper,  S-incbX*  3  in  kit) 

9  Gauge,  thumb,  mortise 

10  Hammer,  claw,  handled  * 

11  Knife,  drawing 

12  Oiler* 

13  Plane,  smooth,  8-inch 

14  Plane,  jack,  15-inch 

15  Plane,  jointer,  24-inch 

16  Hasp,  wood,  12-inch 

17  Rule,  2-foot  * 

18  Saw,  hand,  crosscut  * 

19  Saw,  hand,  rip 

20  Nest  of  saws,  compass,  with  1  handle,  3  blades. . 

21  Screw  driver,  hand 

22  Set,  saw  * 

23  Spoke  pointer 

24  Square,  try,  75-inch 

25  Square,  steel,  2-foot 

26  Stone,  oil  * 

27  Vise,  4-inch  jaw 

28  Wrench,  monkey,  10-inch  * 


The  articles  marked  *  when  extracted  from  the  set  form  the 
carpenters'  and  wheelwrights'  tool  kit  and  form  part  of  equip- 
ment "A"  (see  preface).  Remaining  articles  are  in  equipment 
"B." 

There  is  issued  by  the  Ordnance  Department  to  the  Field  Ar- 
tillery, to  be  carried  in  the  battery  and  forge  wagon,  a  set  of  car- 
penter tools,  shown  on  Plates  XVII  and  XVIII  as  follows. 


70 


WAGONER  OR  TEAMSTER. 


WAGONER  OK  TEAMSTER. 


71 


PLATE  XVII. 


72 


WAGONER  OR  TEAMSTER. 


PLATE  XVIII. 


WAGONER   OR  TEAMSTER. 

Carpenter7 s  tools. 


73 


Article. 


Number. 


Bench  ax 

Bags,  canvas,  for  small  stores 

Bevel 

Bits,  auger,  sizes  \,  \,  f,  I,  U,  H  inches 

Bit,  wood,  countersink,  f-inch  diameter,  rose  head 

Bit,  expansive,  2  cutters,  |  to  3  inches 

Bits,  screw-driver,  sizes  f ,  f ,  and  f  inch 

Brace,  ratchet,  10-inch  sweep 

Chisels,  socket,  framing,  sizes  f ,  1,  and  1 J  inches 

Divider,  wing,  10-inch,  forged  steel 

Drills,  twist,  sizes  /T,  ^,  /j,  and  ^  inch 

File,  10-inch,  flat,  bastard 

Files,  saw,  sizes  4  and  6  inches 

Gage,  marking,  brass,  thumb-screw  ?  shoe  and  face 

Gouges,  socket  firmer,  sizes  J  and  1  inch 

Hammer,  claw,  adze  eye,  bell  face,  1  pound  4  ounces 

Handle,  tool,  containing  10  tools 

Handles,  file,  aluminum  alloy 

Knife,  drawing,  folding  and  adjustable  handle 

Knife,  drawing,  9-inch  blade 

Mallet,  2f  by  5  inches,  maple,  hickory  handle 

Nail  sets 

O  ilers 

Oil  stone,  unmounted,  1  by  2  by  8  inches,  Arkansas  soft. 

Pincers,  small,  8-inch,  solid  steel 

Plane,  jack,  wood,  16-inch,  2i-inch  double  bit 

Plane,  smoothing,  wood,  8-inch,  2-inch  double  bit 

Plate,  auger  handle 

Rasp,  wood,  10-inch,  half  round 

Reamer,  half  round ,  for  wood  or  soft  metal 

Rule,  boxwood,  2-foot,  4-fold 

Saw,  crosscut,  24-inch,  7-point 

Saw,  crosscut,  20-inch,  8-point 

Saw,  rip,  24-inch,  5-point 

Saw  set 

Screw  driver,  5-inch  blade,  10  inches  over  r  11 

Spoke  shave,  adjustable,  raised  handle,  2J-mch  cutter. . . 

Square,  steel,  12-inch  body,  8- inch  tongue 

Tape  lino,  linen,  metallic  warp,  100-foot,  marked  12ths. . 

Toolkit.. 

Vise,  table,  2A-inch  jaw,  3-pound 

Wrench,  screw,  12-inch,  solid  bar 


i  |-inch. 


2  6-inch. 


74  WAGONER   OR   TEAMSTER. 

ROUTINE  OF  DUTIES  OF  TEAMSTER. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  have  a  fixed  time  for  every  routine  duty, 
for  then  there  will  be  no  chance  of  overlooking  anything.  Cer- 
tain duties  should  be  attended  to  daily  and  some  weekly.  The 
following  is  suggested  daily:  Immediately  after  rising,  water  your 
animals;  when  taking  to  water  note  carefully  if  they  walk  lame; 
then  feed  grain  to  animals,  wash  yourself,  and  get  breakfast; 
give  animals  a  very  hasty  cleaning,  clean  and  inspect  feet  and 
shoes  carefully,  clean  the  ground  where  animals  have  stood  during 
night;  hitch  up  and  report  where  ordered;  water  at  every  oppor- 
tunity either  from  running  stream  or  from  bucket — never  from 
public  trough  unless  pronounced  healthy  by  proper  authority. 
When  work  is  finished  in  evening,  park  the  wagon  in  place  desig- 
nated, remove  harness  and  hang  up,  rub  off  collars,  belly  bands, 
and  cruppers;  water;  tie  animals  to  picket  line;  clean  out  and 
examine  the  feet  carefully,  make  a  note  of  loose  or  lost  shoes; 
feed  grain  and  hay;  report  animals  requiring  shoeing  or  veterinary 
attention,  especially  examine  carefully  for  any  abrasion  or  enlarge- 
ment; wash  and  get  dinner;  glance  over  harness  and  the  nuts  on 
wagon,  making  any  minor  repairs  and  reporting  those  which 
require  attention  of  a  specialist;  grease  the  wagon,  if  required; 
groom,  wash  animals'  shoulders,  and  fix  the  harness  so  as  to  remove 
the  pressure  the  next  day  from  any  swollen  parts. 

Don't  ever  try  to  pad  a  bunch — it  only  makes  things  worse.  If 
the  felt  collar  pads  are  not  obtainable,  pieces  of  sheepskin  with 
thongs  attached  are  very  handy  for  use  in  case  of  sore  shoulder 
or  collar  boils;  they  are  tied  one  on  each  side  of  affected  part; 
they  should  be  large  enough  to  cover  (except  the  affected  part) 
the  entire  half  of  the  collar.  Small  pieces  would  only  cause  undue 
pressure  on  the  spots  covered  by  these  pieces.  Especial  care 
should  be  exercised  in  fitting  of  the  collar.  If  too  large,  it  will 
move  about  and  will  make  the  shoulders  sore;  if  it  is  too  small 
it  will  choke  the  animal.  The  collar  is  the  right  size  if  the  hand 
(flat)  can  be  put  between  the  bottom  (the  inside)  of  the  collar 
and  the  windpipe.  (See  ''Fitting  harness,"  p.  78.) 


CHAPTER  IV. 


THE  SADDLER. 


Saddler's  chevron. 

The  saddler  is  charged  with  the  repair  of  individual  leather  horse 
equipment  of  the  personnel  in  mounted  organizations  and  with  the 
harness  pertaining  to  the  trains. 

The  individual  horse  equipment  is  described  in  the  Cavalry  Drill 
Regulations.  The  two  principal  types  of  harness  issued  by  the 
Quartermaster  Department  are  known  as  the  "Four-mule  Ambu- 
lance or  Wagon  Harness"  and  the  " Six-mule  U.  S.  Army  Wagon 
Harness." 

The  escort  wagon  is  drawn  by  four  mules,  which  are  equipped 
with  one  double  set  of  lead  harness  and  one  double  set  of  wheel 
harness,  of  the  "four-mule  ambulance  or  wagon  harness"  type. 
This  type  is  distinguished  by  the  traces,  which  consist  of  leather 
from  hames  to  the  breeching,  the  remainder  of  the  length  being  of 
chain  with  hook  at  the  end.  This  harness  is  illustrated  in  Plates 
XIX  to  XXI,  pages ,  with  list  of  parts  as  follows^ 

The  assembled  double  set  of  lead  harness  is  shown  in  Plate  XX 
and  of  wheel  harness  in  Plate  XXI.  The  entire  set  (two  single, 
lead,  and  two  single,  wheel,  sets)  for  a  four-mule  team,  with  team 
hitched  to  escort  wagon,  is  shown  in  Plates  IX,  X,  and  XI. 

The  Six-mule  United  States  Army  Wagon  Harness  (used  on  reserve 
ponton,  and  on  heavy  "Army  six"  wagons  no  longer  issued)  has 
no  harness  saddles,  has  breeching  of  a  single  flat  leather  strap,  and 
traces  are  all  chain  covered  with  leather.  The  six-mule  team  is 
ordinarily  managed  by  a  driver,  mounted  on  a  riding  saddle  on  the 
near  (left)  wheel  horse  or  wheel  mule,  who  uses  a  jerk  line  and  a 
blacksnake.  A  riding  saddle,  check  rein,  and  jockey  stick  are 
part  of  the  equipment. 


PLATE  XIX.— Ambulance  or  wagon  harness. 


No.  1. 
No.  2. 
No.  3. 
No. 
No. 
No. 
No. 
No. 
No. 
No.  10. 
No.  11. 
No.  12. 
No.  14. 
No.  15. 
No.  16. 


Crownpiece  (lead  and  wheel). 

Straps,  throat. 

Bands,  brow. 

Check  pieces. 

Blinds. 

Winker  stays. 

Face  pieces.     , 

Straps,  bit. 

Bits,  bridle,  ambulance,  No.  47- A. 

Reins,  bridle,  long. 

Reins,  bridle,  short. 

Straps,  rein. 

Hames. 

Straps,  hame,  upper  and  lower. 

Straps,  breast. 


No.  17.  Straps,  choke. 

No.  18.  Traces,  single. 

No.  19.  Bands,  back  (straps,  back). 

No.  20.  Bands,  belly. 

No.  21.  Breechings,  complete. 

No.  22.  Straps,  breeching. 

No.  23.  Straps,  turnback,  complete. 

No.  24.  Straps,  hip. 

No.  25.  Lines,  2-horse. 

No.  27.  Lines,  4-horse. 

No.  34.  Crupper,  lead. 

No.  35.  Straps,  carrying. 

No.  36.  Martingales. 

No.  37.  Tugs,  back-strap  (with  No.  18). 

No.  38.  Straps,  side  (21-38). 


76 


THE   SADDLER. 


THE   SADDLER, 


77 


W 


e 

a 


78  THE   SADDLER. 

FITTING  HARNESS. 

The  chief  difficulty  of  the  driver  is  in  fitting  the  collar,  and  too 
much  pains  can  not  be  taken  to  understand  the  cause  and  the 
prevention  of  collar  sores.  Nearly  all  shoulder  sores  are  due  to 
large  collars.  If  the  collar  is  top  long,  the  pressure  is  applied  too 
low  on  the  shoulder  and  sores  will  occur  at  the  lower  part.  If  the 
collar  is  too  wide,  the  pressure  is  applied  on  the  outer  parts  of  the 
shoulder,  the  flesh  will  be  rubbed  by  the  slipping  of  the  collar  and 
sores  will  form  at  the  upper  part  of  the  shoulder.  The  collar  should 
conform  exactly  to  the  shape  of  the  shoulder  and  should  fit  so 
snugly  that  only  the  thickness  of  the  fingers  can  be  forced  between 
the  collar  and  the  neck.  This  clearance  should  be  exactly  the 
same  from  the  top  of  the  collar  to  the  throat.  Great  care  should 
be  taken  to  select  the  proper  size  of  collar  and  to  work  it  to  the  shape 
of  the  shoulder  by  light  use  before  field  service  is  required.  The 
collar  should  be  moist  when  first  used  on  an  animal  so  that  it  will 
be  shaped  to  the  neck  by  the  pressure  of  the  draft.  This  moisture 
is  most  effectively  given  by  wrapping  the  collar  in  wet  sacks  and 
leaving  them  on  for  one  night  before  the  collar  is  used.  On  account 
of  the  difficulty  of  securing  proper  size  collars,  pads  of  cotton  or 
felt  should  be  secured.  If  not  with  the  harness  when  issued,  every 
effort  should  be  made  to  secure  them — one  for  each  collar.  These 
pads  fill  in  the  irregular  space  between  ill-fitting  collars  and  the 
neck,  and  thus  partially  compensate  for  the  evil. 

When  sores  form,  the  filling  should  be  removed  from  the  part  of 
the  cotton  or  felt  pad  over  the  sore,  but  the  covering  of  the  pad 
should  not  be  cut.  The  filling  can  be  removed  by  ripping  the 
edge  and  carefully  pulling  out  the  required  amount  without  dis- 
turbing the  surrounding  portion. 

When  suitable  sizes  of  collars  can  not  be  obtained,  a  large  collar 
may  be  reduced  in  size  by  cutting  off  the  top  ends  and  reattaching 
the  buckles  and  straps.  The  collar  may  then  be  buckled  so  as  to 
make  it  shorter  and  narrower. 

Sores  on  top  of  the  neck  result  from  the  pressure  of  the  harsh 
edges  of  the  upper  ends  of  the  collar;  from  the  effort  to  hold  back 
the  wagon  by  the  breast  chain;  from  the  rolling  effect  of  a  large 
collar,  and  from  the  downward  pull  of  the  traces.  All  these  evils 
may  be  remedied  by  proper  care.  To  prevent  the  upper  edges  of 
the  collar  from  rubbing,  a  steel  collar  pad  should  always  be  used 
next  to  the  mane;  every  effort  should  be  made  to  secure  these 
pads,  as  they  will  save  much  annoyance.  These  pads  are  attached 
to  the  collar  by  leather  straps  and  protect  the  flesh  from  the  harsh 
ends  of  the  collar  and  from  the  roughness  of  the  cotton  or  felt  pad. 
Breast  chains  should  be  lengthened  to  the  last  ring  and  should  never 


THE   SADDLER.  79 

be  tight;  they  guide  the  pole  and  are  not  intended  to  hold  back  the 
load.  A  close-fitting  collar  will  not  roll  over  the  neck  as  the  ani- 
mal walks,  and  thus  it  chafes  the  flesh.  The  trace  should  be  held 
by  the  back  strap  at  such  a  height  that  its  direction  at  the  hames 
is  about  perpendicular  to  the  shoulder.  This  avoids  the  downward 
pressure  on  the  neck. 

The  hames  should  be  adjusted  in  length  by  shifting  the  upper 
strap  to  the  proper  holes.  The  length  should  be  such  that  the  point 
of  attachment  of  the  trace  will  be  opposite  the  middle  of  the  surface 
of  the  shoulder  over  which  the  collar  rests.  This  is  for  the  purpose 
of  distributing  the  pressure  evenly  over  the  shoulder  and  thus 
reduce  it  to  the  minimum  at  all  points.  If  the  attachment  of  the 
trace  is  too  low,  or  too  high,  the  pressure  is  localized  at  one  place 
and  produces  sores.  In  adjusting  hames,  the  straps  should  not  be 
so  tight  as  to  squeeze  the  collar;  the  upper  hame  straps  should  be 
just  long  enough  to  be  taut  when  the  lower  straps  are  buckled  snug. 

In  fitting  the  bridle,  the  bit  should  be  adjusted  so  as  to  be  up  in 
the  corner  of  the  mouth,  but  not  so  far  up  as  to  wrinkle  it. 

CARE  OF  HARNESS. 

Never  throw  the  harness  on  the  ground;  hang  it  somewhere;  place 
the  shoulder  side  of  the  collars  outside,  so  they  will  dry;  this  will 
save  trouble  of  cleaning  and  of  caring  for  animals  injured  by  hard 
or  muddy  leather;  such  animals  are  useless  but  must  be  attended 
to  anyway. 

It  is  better  to  wipe  off  the  harness  immediately  after  coming  in — 
before  the  dirt  has  gotten  hard . 

Leather  should  be  kept  soft  and  pliable,  and  the  only  way  to  do 
this  is  to  keep  it  cleaned  and  oiled.  Never  put  leather  in,  or  wash 
it  with,  hot  water — such  treatment  ruins  it. 

In  cleaning  be  sure  to  get  into  the  cracks,  especially  about  the 
keepers;  take  the  ends  of  straps  out  of  the  keepers  for  this  purpose. 

Do  not  wear  a  buckle  in  the  same  hole  all  the  time;  shift  the 
buckle  a  hole  or  so  occasionally,  and  the  leather  will  not  rot  out  at 
that  one  place. 

Clean  harness  whenever  it  gets  muddy  or  dirty;  clean  and  oil  it 
at  least  twice  a  month  if  in  use.  Think  of  the  uncomfortable  feel- 
ing on  your  own  foot  of  a  shoe  which  has  gotten  wet  and  has  dried 
rather  quickly,  and  you  can  realize  how  a  mule  feels  wearing  har- 
ness which  has  not  been  properly  cared  for  after  having  gotten  wet. 
Especially  should  the  collars,  cruppers,  backhands,  or  saddles, 
and  belly  bands  or  girths  be  kept  soft  and  pliable.  The  collar 
requires  particular  attention;  it  should  be  rubbed  clean — not 
76881° — 15—6 


80  THE   SADDLER. 

scraped — every  day  after  use,  and  again  just  before  putting  on.  The 
collar  should  be  kept  buckled  when  off— it  keeps  its  shape  better. 

To  clean  the  harness:  First  rig  up  a  rack  of  some  sort  to  hang  it 
on,  for  it  makes  the  work  so  much  easier.  Use  the  wagon  tongue 
or  put  the  extra  coupling  pole  between  the  spokes  of  hind  wheel 
above  the  hub  and  strap  the  other  end  to  the  axle.  Get  a  bucket- 
ful of  water  (warm  but  not  hot),  sponge,  harness  soap,  neats-foot 
oil  (and  some  lampblack,  if  you  can).  Soften  the  mud  and  dirt  by 
using  plenty  of  water,  but  do  not  put  the  leather  in  the  water  to 
soak — it  spoils  it. 

When  all  the  dirt  has  been  removed  which  is  possible  with 
water  alone,  make  a  thin  lather  of  the  soap  on  the  sponge  and  com- 
plete the  cleaning.  In  cleaning,  rub  as  little  as  practicable— do 
it  mostly  by  soaking  the  dirt  off. 

Let  it  dry  gradually;  never  by  a  fire  nor  in  the  hot  sun. 

If  lampblack  be  available,  stir  some  into  the  neats-foot  oil  until 
it  has  a  glossy  appearance.  Apply  this  on  a  small  sponge  or  piece 
of  cloth  and  rub  this  thoroughly  into  the  leather.  Then  let  it  dry  in. 

Cleaning  and  preserving  materials  for  mounted  equipment  and 
artillery  harness  are  furnished  by  the  Ordnance  Department;  for 
wagon  harness  and  other  quartermaster  equipment  by  the  Quar- 
termaster Corps. 

REPAIRS. 

The  repair  work  required  in  caring  for  leather  equipment  will 
vary  from  the  hasty  patching  of  a  broken  trace  on  the  march  to 
actual  making  of  certain  parts  in  camps  of  considerable  duration. 
There  is  a  set  of  saddler's  tools  issued  by  the  Ordnance  Department 
and  one  issued  by  the  Quartermaster  Department.  To  organiza- 
tions having  trains  of  quartermaster  transportation,  a  quartermaster 
set  of  saddler's  tools  is  issued ,  i.  e. ,  to  each  regimental  headquarters, 
wagon  company,  ambulance  company,  engineer  train,  engineer 
battalion,  and  Signal  Corps  battalion.  Mounted  organizations  are 
furnished  suitable  sets  of  such  tools  by  the  Ordnance  Department. 
Of  the  quartermaster  sets,  portions  only  are  taken  into  the  field, 
called  the  "field  kits." 


THE  SADDLER. 


81 


IW 

IJU  U I 


PLATE  XXII. 


82 


THE   SADDLER. 


36 


PLATE  XXIII. 


THE   SADDLER.  83 

The  ordnance  set  is  as  follows  (see  Pis.  XXII  and  XXIII),  viz: 
Saddler's  tools. 


Article. 

Number  issued  to  one- 

Battery  of  heavy,  horse,  or  light  artillery. 

Battery,  or  regimental  headquarters  (in- 
cluding band)  of  mounted  artillery. 

Cavalry  troop  . 

Engineer  company,  pioneer. 

Field  or  telegraph  company,  Signal  Corps. 

d 

i 

i 

0< 

1 

o 

I 

a 
f 

1 

Regimental  headquarters  (including  band) 
of  heavy,  horse,  or  light  artillery. 

1  Headquarters  supply  and  machine-gun 
company. 

Awl  blades,  harness,  assorted,  Nos.  43 
to  48,  inclusive 

12 

12 

12 

T> 

Awl  blades,  harness,  assorted,  Nos.  43, 

45,  and  48  .... 

3 

3 

3 

3 

Awl,  pegging  

1 
1 

1 

1 
1 

1 
1 

2 

1 
1 
1 

6 

1 

1 

1 
1 
1 

1 
1 

2 
1 

1 
1 

6 

1 
1 

1 
1 
1 
1 
1 

2 
1 
1 
1 

6 

1 

Awl,  seat,  handled  . 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

Carriage,  pricking,  3  wheels,  Nos.  7,  8, 
and  10 

Compass,  6-inch  

1 

1 
1 

1 

1 

1 

Creaser,  double,  lignum-vitae 

Edge  tool,  No.  1  

1 

Edge  tool,  No.  2  

1 

2 
1 

1 

1 

2 
1 
1 
1 

1 

2 
1 
1 

1 

2 
1 

1 

1 

2 
1 
1 

Extra  blades  with   followers  for  draw 
gauge  

Gauge,  draw,  brass 

Hammer,  No.  3,  riveting  

Handle,  peg  (leather  top),  with  wrench. 
Handles,   awl,  flat,   imitation  ebony, 
assorted,  6  sizes 

'  6 

7 

3 
1 

Handles,   awl,   flat,   imitation  ebony, 
assorted,  3  sizes  

3 

3 

1 

3 

Knife,  round  

1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
2 
2 

12 

1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
2 
2 

12 

1 
1 
1 
1 

2 
2 
2 

1 

1 
1 

Knife,  splitting,  6-inch 

Needle  case,  leather  

1 

1 
1 

1 

1 

Needles,  Glover's,  No  3,  papers 

Needles,  harness,  No.  4,  papers  

1 
1 

1 

2 
2 
2 

1 
1 

1 

1 

1 

1 
1 

Needles,  harness,  No.  5,  papers  
Needles,  harness,  No.  6,  papers  

Needles,  sacking,  assorted,  sizes  4  and 
4i  inches.. 

THE   SADDLER. 

Saddler's  tools — Continued. 


! 

£ 

21 
22 
23 
24 

25 

26 

27 

28 
29 

30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 

38 
39 
40 
41 

Article. 

Number  issued  to  one- 

Battery  of  heavy,  horse,  or  light  artillery. 

Battery,  or  regimental  headquarters  (in- 
cluding band)  of  mounted  artillery. 

Cavalry  troop. 

Engineer  company,  pioneer. 

Field  or  telegraph  company,  Signal  Corps. 

Machine-gun  troop  or  headquarters  troop. 

Regimental  headquarters  (including  band) 
of  heavy,  horse,  or  light  artillery. 

Headquarters  supply  and  machine-gun 
company. 

Nippers,  cutting,  10-inch 

1 
1 
1 

1 

1 
1 

1 
1 
1 

1 
1 

1 
1 
1 

1 
1 

1 
1 

1 
1 

Oilstone  Washita  unmounted 

Pliers,  6-inch  

Punches,  hand,  Nos.  5,  7,  8,  and  10, 
round  

4 

4 

4 

4 

Punches  hand  Nos  5  and  7 

0 

2 

1 

1 
1 

2 

1 

1 
1 

2 

1 
1 
1 

Punch,  revolving,  4  tubes,  Nos.  4,  5,  6, 
and  7 

1 
1 
1 

1 
1 

1 
1 
1 

1 
1 

1 

1 
1 

1 

1 
1 

1 

R  i  vet  set  

Rule,  boxwood,  2-  foot,  4-fold  .  .  . 

Screw  driver,  3-inch  blade,  coml.,  8  in- 
ches over  all          

Sewing  palm  leather 

1 

Shears  10-inch  bent  trimmers 

1 

1 

1 
1 

1 

1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 

1 

Shoe  knife  square  point  .  . 

1 

1 
1 

1 

1 

1 

Shoe  knife  broad  point 

Slicker,  steel         

1 

Stitching  clamp 

1 

1 

1 

2 
1 
1 

1 
1 

21 

1 

1 

1 

Stitching  horse  

i  1 

Thimbles,  best  aluminum,  lined  steel, 
2  sizes  

2 
1 

2 
1 

2 
1 
1 

21 

1 

21 
1 

2 
1 

Tool  claw                                

Tool  bag  saddler's 

Tool  kit  cotton  duck 

1 

1 

1 

1 

Tool  kit  sheepskin  . 

1 

1  Issued  to  converted  3-inch  battery  only. 

2  Larger  size  issued. 


THE   SADDLER. 


85 


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THE   SADDLER. 


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THE   SADDLER. 


87 


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THE   SADDLER. 


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Ring  D: 
1  inch  diameter  (feed  bag)  
11  inches  diameter,  with  olasn 

lirf^f! 

•fc-H    ft 

03     . 

*-inch  (halter)  feet. 
Screws,  brass,  1-inch,  No.  6,  gross. 
Sheepskins,  with  wool  on  
Shields,  saddle: 
11-inch  
HHnch  
12-inch  

If  inches  diameter.  .. 
2  inches  diameter  (s 
Rivets  and  burs,  brass  Ib 
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THE   SADDLER. 


89 


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GENERAL  NOTES. 

(A)  Organizations  with  authorized  increased  or  decreased  strength  will  be  issued  supplies  in  accordance  with  the  above 
table,  pro  rata,  for  the  number  of  men  and  animals  actually  with  the  organization. 
(B)  Organizations  serving  in  the  Philippines  Division,  Panama  and  Hawaiian  Islands  will  be  allowed  twice  the  quantities 
of  material  in  the  above  table,  and  such  additional  quantities  as  special  conditions  render  necessary. 
(1)  This  allowance  is  sufficiently  large  to  permit  repairs  of  equipment  for  battalion  and  regimental  headquarters  not  cared 
for  in  battery.  If  regiment  is  separated,  each  battalion  and  regimental  organization  receives  proportional  amounts. 

"" 

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II 

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90  THE   SADDLER. 

The  Quartermaster  Corps  set  is  as  follows: 
Saddler's  tools,  set. 
(See  PI.  XXIV.) 


Figure. 


Articles. 


Number. 


Awl,  collar,  with  handle  * 

Awl,  round,  with  handle  * 

Blades,  awl,  3  each,  6  sizes  *. . . 

Brush 

Can,oil 

Chest,  tool,  saddler's  combination. 

Chisel,  cold,  hand 

Clamp,  stitching 

Creaser,  iron 

Cup,  tin,  pint 

Dividers,  pair 

File,  round  (taper,  6-inch) 

Hammer,  riveting,  handled  1 

Hammer,  shoe,  handled 

Hammer,  tack,  handled 

Handles,  awl 

Knife,  gauge,  5-inch  slide J 

Knife,head 

Knife,  round 

Knife,  shoe 

Nippers,  cutting 

Pliers,  6-inch,  flat  nose 

I 'unch,  revolving,  6-tube  1 

Punches,  round,  Nos.  2  and  9 

Rule,  36-inch 

Screw  driver,  6-inch 

Set, rivet  1 

Shears,  bent,  pair 

Slicker,  glass 

Stone,  oil 

Thimbles 

Tickler ; 

Tool,  claw 

Tool,  edge,  common  * 

Vise,  small 


i  These  articles,  when  extracted  from  the  set,  form  the  Saddler's  Tool  Kit  and 
form  a  part  of  Equipment  "A"  (see  preface).  The  remaining  articles  are  in 
Equipment  "B." 

To  each  battalion  of  infantry  or  squadron  of  cavalry  there  is  also 
issued,  by  the  Quartermaster  Department,  a  harness  mender,  illus- 
trated in  Plate  XXV,  page  92. 


THE   SADDLER. 


91 


1 
i 


> 
R 


- 


THE   SADDLER. 


1 

S 


THE   SADDLER. 

The  contents  of  a  harness  mender  are  as  follows: 


Figure. 

Articles. 

Number. 

1 

Beeswax  piece 

1 

2 

Blades,  awl,  harness                

3 

3 

Handle,  awl 

1 

4 

Needles,  harness  (1  paper  )  

6 

5 

Punch,  rivet  No  5 

1 

6 

Rivets  and  burrs,  copper,  No.  8  lb.. 

i 

7 

Set,  rivet 

1 

8 

Thread,  shoe                        .    .     .                    ball.. 

2 

9 

Drive  punch 

1 

10 

Wax,  shoe                     .              .                  ball.. 

1 

Certain  repair  parts  for  harness  are  carried  in  the  escort  wagons 
and  ambulances  to  which  the  harness  pertains.  (See  list  of  wagon 
parts  and  accessaries,  p.  66.)  In  addition  to  these,  the  following 
allowances  of  materials  for  the  repair  and  preservation  of  harness 
are  prescribed : 

For  each  double  set  of  quartermaster  harness — 

1  leather,  harness,  black,  pound. 
YQ-  rivets  and  burrs,  copper,  pound. 

2  thread,  saddler's,  ounces. 
2  wax,  saddler's,  ounces. 

The  above  amounts  are  prescribed  as  Equipment  "A"   (see 
Preface).     The  same  amounts  are  prescribed  as  Equipment  "B." 
For  every  20  double  sets  of  quartermaster  harness — 

1  needle,  glover,  paper. 

2  needles,  harness,  No.  2,  papers. 
2  needles,  harness,  No.  3,  papers. 
2  needles,  harness,  No.  4,  papers. 

The  above  quantities  of  needles  are  prescribed  as  Equipment 
"  A.  "•    No  additional  quantities  are  prescribed  as  Equipment  "  B. " 
The  following  sizes  of  rivets  and  thread  are  required: 
Rivets  and  burrs,  copper — 

No.  8,  1J  inches.! 

No.  9,  %  inch.       I  The  rate  of  consumption  by  weight  of  each 

No.  9,  1  inch.     •  [     of  these  sizes  is  ordinarily  the  same. 

No.  12,  J  inch.    J 

Thread,  saddler's— Nos.  3  and  10,  the  same  amount  of  each. 

In  repairing  broken  parts  the  methods  for  single  thickness  and 
double  thickness  are  different.  If  of  single  thickness,  the  two  ends 
to  be  joined  are  shaved  down  so  that  when  lapped  the  joint  will  be 
about  the  same  thickness  as  the  strap  itself;  then  sew  parallel  to 


94  THE   SADDLER. 

the  edges — not  across,  for  if  you  do  it  will  make  a  weak  place  in  the 
leather  along  the  line  of  stitches.  However,  a  couple  of  stitches 
should  be  placed  at  the  ends. 

If  the  broken  parts  consist  of  two  or  more  thicknesses,  such  as 
traces,  shave  one  end  down  to  a  sharp-pointed  wedge  and  the  other 
end  from  the  center  so  as  to  receive  the  wedge-shaped  end,  then 
sew  parallel  to  the  edges  and  one  or  two  lines  of  stitches  crosswise. 

If  the  part  to  be  repaired  is  a  trace,  care  must  be  taken  to  see  that 
the  distance  from  buckle  holes  in  the  trace,  at  the  hame  end,  to 
the  singletree  holes  is  the  same  as  in  the  good  trace.  Another 
point,  do  not  place  the  joint  so  that  the  singletree  hole  must  be 
made  through  the  splice. 

In  splicing  very  thick  traces  it  is  better  to  shave  down  the  ends 
of  the  break  so  as  to  make  the  joint  about  the  same  thickness  as  the 
trace  and  simply  tack  them  together  and  then  cover  the  joint  on 
each  side  with  a  piece  of  leather  of  the  same  width.  The  ends  of 
these  pieces  should  be  shaved  down  to  a  thin  edge. 

Loops  or  keepers  (for  holding  the  ends  of  straps)  of  ten  times  come 
unsewed.  If  ripped  considerably,  it  is  better  to  repair  them  by 
removing  entirely,  then  sew  one  end  in  along  the  edge  on  its  own 
side,  after  which  tuck  the  other  end  in  and  sew  it  by  using  sewing 
needles  as  far  as  practicable  and  then  a  brass  wire  doubled,  with 
eye  at  the  middle  and  suitably  curved. 

To  repair  a  surcingle  or  girth,  tack  the  edges  together  and  make  a 
loop  just  large  enough  to  go  around  singly.  Pin  this  over  the  end 
of  the  surcingle  and  over  the  joint — laj)  of  the  loop  outside — and 
sew  fairly  near  the  edges  (so  as  to  make  it  smooth)  and  twice  down 
the  middle. 

In  using  a  side  or  part  of  a  side  of  leather  care  should  be  taken  to 
cut  from  the  proper  part  of  the  side.  Remember  that  the  back  is 
generally  the  best  and  the  belly  and  flanks  the  least  desirable, 
being  looser  grained. 

In  working  leather  into  shapes  it  will  be  necessary  to  soak  it  (if 
black;  not  if  russet,  unless  it  is  hard)  for  about  an  hour;  it  should 
not  be  soaked  so  long  that  the  stuffing  (grease)  comes  .out. 

If  you  need  a  piece  of  leather  of  a  certain  width  and  length,  cut 
that  much  out  and  no  more;  it  may  leave  an  odd  shape  remaining, 
but  that  odd  shape  may  turn  out  later  to  be  exactly  what  you  need. 
In  other  words,  save  your  leather. 

Every  harness  maker  or  repairer  will  find  a  grained  leather  finger 
stall  a  necessity.  Constant  sewing  with  waxed  thread  soon  wears 
the  skin  from  the  fingers  and  makes  them  very  sore. 

If  a  spot  does  become  thin  and  tender,  it  can  be  relieved  by  taking 
a  single  strand  of  waxed  thread  and  wrapping  close  together  around 
the  finger  over  the  spot;  this  method  is  much  better  than  court- 
plaster  and  will  last  much  longer. 


THE   SADDLER.  95 

For  work  around  loops  and  other  inaccessible  places  it  will  be 
found  very  convenient  to  use  an  improvised  needle  consisting  of  a 
fine  brass  or  copper  wire,  doubled  and  slightly  twisted,  with  an  eye 
left  at  the  middle.  This  can  be  bent  into  almost  any  shape.  The 
awl  holes  should  be  made  large  in  such  cases — it  will  save  time  and 
trouble. 

In  stitching  be  careful  that  knots  are  not  left  where  the  harness 
rubs  the  animals.  A  knot  is  not  necessary  if  a  couple  of  back 
stitches  are  used  at  the  beginning  and  end  of  the  seam. 

It  is  better  to  sew  than  to  use  rivets,  for  the  rivets  make  an  un- 
sightly job  and  the  hole  punched  for  the  rivet  takes  away  consider- 
able of  the  leather.  For  hasty  work,  however,  rivets  must  be  used, 
and  to  rivet  well  is  an  art.  The  proper  length  rivet  should  be 
chosen ;  with  the  leather  held  firmly  together  and  the  rivet  in  place 
ready  to  be  hammered,  the  end  should  not  extend  more  than  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  above  the  burr.  If  longer  than  this,  the  end 
should  be  cut  off,  for,  if  not,  it  will  be  impossible  to  properly  upset 
the  end,  and  consequently  the  rivet  shank  will  bend  and  make  a 
very  poor  joint. 

76881° — 15 7 


CHAPTER  Y. 


THE  PACKER. 

The  pack  mule  is  used  in  our  service  where  rail  or  wagon  transpor- 
tation is  impracticable,  or  where  peculiar  conditions  render  his  use 
particularly  suitable,  such  as  in  mountain  field  artillery,  demolition 
packs  for  cavalry,  tool  packs  for  engineers,  medical  equipment  for 
sanitary  troops  attached  to  organizations,  machine  guns  for  infantry 
and  cavalry,  radio  outfits  of  signal  corps  company,  supply  trains,  and 
sanitary  trains.  The  numbers  for  each  for  the  above  purposes  are 
shown  in  the  Tables  of  Organization  of  the  Regular  Army  and  in  Ta- 
bles of  Organization  of  the  Organized  Militia.  The  ordnance  equip- 
ment for  each  is  shown  in  the  several  Unit  Accountability  Manuals 
(Ordnance  Department).  The  quartermaster  equipment  will  be 
shown  in  tables  of  allowances  which  are  expected  to  be  published 
shortly  (1915). 

The  following  remarks  are  taken  mostly  from  Engineer  Field 
Manual,  1907,  Part  VI  (Transportation): 

Pack  saddles. — The  adopted  pack  saddle  is  of  the  Spanish  type, 
and  is  commonly  called  by  its  Spanish  name,  "aparejo,"  Plate 
XXVI.  Its  principal  parts  are  the  body,  the  cover,  the  cincha, 
and  the  crupper.  These  parts  have  subdivisions,  which  are  less 
important.  The  accessories  added  to  the  above  to  make  the 
aparejo  complete  are  the  corona,  the  blanket,  the  lash  rope  (50  feet 
long,  \  inch  diameter)  with  its  cincha,  the  sling  rope  (about  30  feet 
long,  f  inch  diameter),  the  two  lair  ropes  (about  30  feet  long,  £  inch 
diameter  with  loop  or  eye  at  one  end),  and  the  two  mantas  or  pack 


Aparejo,  proper: 

I.  Body  of  aparejo. 
II.  Aparejo  cover  (permanently  attached  to  the  body). 

III.  Cincha. 

IV.  Crupper. 
V.  Corona. 

Accessories: 

VI.  Lash  rope  with  cincha. 
VII.  Sling  rope. 
VIII.  Lair  ropes  (two). 
IX.  Mantas  (pack  covers),  two. 
X.  Blanket. 
Carried  by  packer: 

XI.  Blind  (one  every  10  pack  mules,  or  fraction). 


THE  PACKER. 


97 


98  THE  PACKER. 

The  body  of  the  aparejo  consists  of  2  pieces  of  heavy  leather  24 
inches  wide  by  58,  60,  or  62  inches  long,  sewed  together  at  the  edges 
and  across  the  middle  of  the  length,  forming  2  pouches,  into  which 
moss  or  hay  is  stuffed  to  form  pads  fitting  the  contour  of  the  animal 
on  either  side  of  the  backbone. 

In  the  American  form  the  pads  are  given  a  peculiar  elastic  stiff- 
ness by  means  of  ribs  of  wood  or  metal  extending  from  a  saddle 
piece  at  the  top  of  each  pouch  to  a  boot  piece  at  the  bottom.  These 
ribs  are  stiffer  at  the  front  and  more  flexible  at  the  back,  varying 
uniformly  between.  They  convert  each  pad  into  an  elastic  lever, 
by  which  the  pull  of  the  cincha  on  the  bottom  acts  to  raise  the 
aparejo  and  its  load  from  the  backbone,  while  the  stuffing  distri- 
butes the  load  uniformly  over  a  large  space  on  the  ribs.  The 
stuffing  is  introduced  through  a  handhole  in  the  middle  of  the 
underside  of  each  pad,  through  which  it  is  always  accessible,  and 
the  finest  art  of  the  packer  consists  in  fitting  the  pads  to  the  shape 
of  the  particular  animal  which  is  to  carry  the  aparejo,  and  keeping 
them  so  regardless  of  changes  in  the  animal's  condition  by  shifting, 
removing,  or  renewing  the  stuffing.  If  a  bunch  rises  on  the  animal 
it  can  be  worked  down  by  taking  out  stuffing  immediately  over  it 
so  as  to  take  off  the  pressure  at  that  point.  Determine  the  proper 
point  by  wetting  the  top  of  the  bunch  and  laying  the  aparejo  on 
the  mule.  Aparejos  and  mules  are  numbered  and  the  same  pack 
is  always  on  the  same  mule. 

The  function  of  the  crupper  is  not  what  would  naturally  be 
expected.  If  the  aparejo  is  properly  set  up  and  fitted  there  will 
be  no  tendency  to  move  back  or  forward.  The  crupper  is,  in 
reality,  a  steadying  lever  to  keep  the  aparejo  from  rocking  fore  and 
aft  as  the  mule  travels.  For  this  purpose  the  dock  piece  is  large, 
smooth,  and  soft,  and  the  crupper  is  wide2  stiff,  and  firmly  laced 
to  the  body.  The  crupper  is  adjustable  in  length,  and  must  be 
accurately  fitted,  so  that  when  the  aparejo  is  in  its  proper  place 
the  dock  piece  will  ride  between  tail  and  dock  without  pressing 
on  either. 

The  cincha  is  of  heavy  canvas,  doubled,  and  10  inches  wide. 
It  is  long  enough  to  reach  from  the  near  boot  under  the  mule  and 
around  the  aparejo  to  a  little  beyond  the  middle.  The  ends  are 
connected  by  the  latigo,  or  cincha  strap. 

The  corona  is  a  pad  usually  of  several  thicknesses  ^  of  blanket, 
with  a  number  or  design  which  identifies  the  pack.  It  is  important 
that  the  corona  shall  not  be  separated  from  its  aparejo. 

Off  the  mules  the  aparejos  are  placed  in  a  row  on  the  ground  or 
on  skids,  standing  on  their  boots.  The  cincha,  folded  with  the 
"  latigo  "  or  cinch  strap  (n,  PI.  XXVI)  inside,  rests  on  the  aparejo. 
The  crupper  is  turned  so  that  the  dock  piece  rests  on  the  cincha. 
The  corona  is  placed  on  top  of  all.  Canvas  covers  are  stretched 


THE  PACKER. 


99 


PLATE 


PLATE  XX  Vila. 


PLATE  XXVIIb. 


100 


THE  PACKER. 


PLATE  XXVIIc. 


PLATE  XXVIId. 


PLATE  XX Vile. 


THE  PACKER.  101 

over  the  line  of  aparejos  and  tied  down.  The  line  of  aparejos  so 
arranged  is  usually  referred  to  as  the  rigging. 

Each  packer  is  provided  with  a  blind — one  for  every  10  pack 
mules  or  fraction  of  10.  The  mules  are  trained  to  stand  perfectly 
still  when  blinded,  and  if  it  is  necessary  to  move  a  mule  even  by 
a  step  the  blind  should  be  lifted. 

To  place  the  aparejo  on  the  mule  the  corona  is  first  put  smoothly 
followed  by  the  blanket  folded  to  six  thicknesses.  The  aparejo 


on 


is  then  put  on  slightly  in  rear  of  its  place.  The  crupper  is  turned, 
the  dock  piece  adjusted,  the  aparejo  settled  to  its  place,  and  the 
cincha  unfolded,  placed,  and  tightened.  Never  put  on  or  adjust 
a  pack  with  the  mule's  head  uphill. 

Loads  are  divided  into  side  packs  and  top  packs.  Side  packs 
should  be  of  approximately  equal  weight  and  size.  A  keg  of  paint 
on  one  side  and  an  equal  weight  of  oakum  on  the  other  do  not 
make  a  proper  load.  Side  packs  should  not  be  longer  than  30 
inches,  wider  than  20  inches,  nor  deeper  than  12  inches.  If  the 
side  packs  do  not  fill  out  a  load  the  rest  is  placed  between  them 
as  a  top  pack.  Articles  which  by  their  size  or  shape  are  not  suit- 
able for  side  packs  are  carried  on  top.  The  center  of  gravity  of 
the  entire  load  should  be  below  the  top  of  the  saddle,  and  the  lower 
the  better.  For  miscellaneous  cargoes  the  freight  is  made  up  into 
side  and  top  ;packs,  each  wrapped  in  a  manta,  or  canvas  cover, 
and  tied,  or  laired  up  with  lair  ropes.  If  a  pack  contains  articles 
of  different  weights,  place  the  heaviest  at  the  bottom.  The  side 
packs  are  slung  across  the  aparejo  by  the  sling  ropes  and  lashed  on 
with  the  lash  rope  and  cincha  in  the  form  of  the  diamond  hitch. 
Such  a  load  must  remain  unbroken  until  the  end  of  the  march. 

The  load  is  lashed  on  with  the  lash  rope  and  cincha  by  what  is 
known  as  the  " diamond  hitch;"  the  method  is  explained  in 
Cavalry  Drill  Regulations.  (See  PI.  XXVII.) 

Care  and  preservation. — All  parts  of  the  rigging  should  be  kept 
clean  and  the  leather  parts  soft  and  pliable.  The  materials  and 
methods  given  for  harness  may  be  adapted. 

In  taking  off  lashed  packs,  the  lash  rope  is  removed;  its  cincha 
laid  on  the  ground  at  the  middle  of  the  line  to  be  occupied.  The 
lash  rope  is  coiled  down  on  the  cincha  and  its  end  stretched  out  10 
feet  to  one  side.  The  sling  rope  is  then  unfastened,  the  packs 
dropped  from  the  aparejo  and  laid  on  the  lash  rope  lengthwise  with 
the  cincha.  The  sling  rope  is  coiled  on  the  packs,  and  the  end  of 
the  lash  rope  brought  up  on  top.  The  cincha  of  the  second  pack  is 
laid  down  on  one  side  of  the  first  and  parallel  to  it  at  2  feet  distance, 
but  with  the  end  of  the  lash  rope  on  the  opposite  side.  The  packs, 
etc.,  are  placed  on  it  as  described.  The  third  pack  is  placed  on 
the  other  side  of  the  middle  one,  and  so  on  until  all  are  down  in  a 
Jine.  After  all  cargoes  are  off  the  aparejos  are  removed.  Cargoes 


102 


THE 


are  also  covered  with  pieces  of  canvas  called  cargo  covers.  Mantas 
may  be  used  if  there  are  spare  ones. 

For  details  as  to  pack  transportation,  see  "Pack  Transportation," 
by  Daly,  1910,  a  Government  publication  (War  Department,  Doc- 
ument No.  360).  For  explanation  of  the  knots  and  hitches  see 
"Cavalry  Drill  Regulations,"  paragraphs  1010  to  1017. 

For  repairing  packs  and  shoeing  pack  animals  of  an  organization 
the  ordnance  outfits  issued  to  organizations  are  used;  for  pack 
trains  (part  of  the  supply  quartermaster  service)  this  type  of  equip- 
ment consists  of  the  blacksmith's  kit  and  cargador's  kit. 


THE  PACKER.  103 

The  blacksmith's  kit  consists  of  the  following  articles: 
1  anvil,  field,  packer's. 
1  cutter,  clinch. 
1  hammer,  hand. 
1  hammer,  shoeing. 

1  iron,  clinch. 

2  knives,  horseshoe,  3J-inch  blades. 
1  pinchers. 

1  pritchel. 

2  rasps,  16-inch. 

To  make  the  field  anvil,  take  a  piece  of  flat  iron  about  18  inches 
long,  3  inches  wide,  and  J  inch  thick;  shape  this  into  a  triangle 
about  5  inches  on  the  side  and  weld  together. 
A  pack  train  cargador's  kit  consists  of  the  following  articles: 
12  blades,  awl,  assorted  sizes. 
1  cutter,  rivet. 
1  hammer,  riveting. 

3  handles,  awl. 
1  knife,  gauge. 

1  knife,  half-round. 

2  needles,  Nos.  2  and  4,  papers. 

6  needles,  sailmaker's  assorted  sizes. 
1  oilstone,  small. 
1  palm,  sailmaker's. 

3  punches,  hand,  size  f ,  J,  and  J  inch. 
1  punch,  spring. 

1  set,  rivet. 

1  shears,  tailor's,  6-inch  blade. 

1  tool,  edge. 

Ten  days'  supply  of  materials,  as  listed  below,  required  for  re- 
pairs of  the  complete  equipment  of  50  pack  animals,  forms  a  part 
of  the  cargador's  kit,  viz: 

6  buckles,  halter,  1J  inch. 

4  canvas,  28  inch,  No.  10,  yards. 

6  leather,  bridle  (or  harness),  fair,  pounds. 

6  leather,  latigo,  fair,  pounds. 

1  pack  cover. 

6  rings,  halter,  If  inch. 

J  rivets  and  burrs,  size  f ,  No.  8,  pounds. 

250  rope,  f-inch,  feet. 

200  rope,  J-inch,  feet. 

6  snaps,  halter,  trigger,  size  1J. 

3  thread,  harness,  No.  10,  ounces. 

1  twine,  sailmaker's,  ball. 

3  wax  saddler's,  ounces. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


HORSESHOER. 


Horseshoer's  chevron. 


Those  whose  primary  duty  is  the  shoeing  of  animals  should  fa- 
miliarize themselves  with  the  manual  "The  Army  Horseshoer," 
prepared  at  the  Mounted  Service  School,  Fort  Riley,  Kans.  (War 
Department  Document  No.  356),  which  treats  the  subject  thor- 
oughly. However,  the  trooper,  teamster,  or  the  packer  may  be 
callea  upon  to  tighten,  remove,  or  to  replace  shoes  or  even  to 
adopt  temporary  expedients  for  shoes  when  shoes  themselves  are 
not  to  be  gotten. 

As  long  as  an  animal  has  energy  (which  he  accumulates  by  the 
fuel^taken  into  his  stomach  in  the  shape  of  forage),  he  can  render 
service  if  his  feet  are  in  condition  to  carry  him;  even  though  he 
has  a  sore  back  (if  a  mount)  or  sore  shoulders  (if  a  draft  animal), 
he  can  still — though  with  pain — do  his  work.  But  with  lameness 
in  his  feet,  he  can  neither  carry  himself  nor  his  load — on  the  other 
hand,  he  is  a  burden  because  he  must  be  cared  for. 

A  driver  or  mounted  man  should  see  that  any  shoe  lost  or  worn 
out  is  replaced,  or,  if  a  shoe  be  loose,  that  it  is  tightened  at  the 
earliest  practicable  opportunity. 

If  the  use  of  the  horse  and  the  mule  were  confined  to  the  soft 
fields,  there  would  be  no  necessity  for  protecting  the  hoof,  but  on 
improved  roads,  which  are  a  necessity  due  to  the  heavy  volume 
of  traffic,  the  hoof  will  wear  away  much  more  than  nature  can 
replace.  Rough  ground  also  causes  the  horn  to  break  away. 
Horseshoes  and  mule  shoes  are  therefore  a  necessity  in  the  military 
service. 

The  idea  of  the  shoe  is  to  protect  the  wall  of  the  hoof,  but  this 
must  be  done  without  interference  with  the  growth  of  any  part  of 
the  foot  or  with  the  proper  functioning  of  the  various  parts  of  the 


HOKSESHOER.  105 

foot.  When  the  animal  puts  his  foot  on  the  ground  there  is  a  down- 
ward movement  of  all  the  inside  portion  of  the  foot  with  reference 
to  the  ouside  covering  or  wall  and  the  hard  sole  or  bottom  of  the 
foot.  The  frog  in  the  horse  corresponds  to  the  heel  of  the  man 
and  it  is  just  as  important.  Any  shoeing  which  does  not  permit 
of  the  frog's  touching  the  ground  is  defective;  however,  this  is 
not  to  be  construed  as  meaning  that  horses  which  have  been  shod 
otherwise  so  long  as  to  dry  up  the  frog  or  whose  feet  are  otherwise  de- 
fective should  have  the  horn  and  sole  cut  down  so  much  as  to  bring 
pressure  on  the  sensitive  parts  of  the  foot.  The  frog  can  be  built 
up  again  by  putting  it  to  use  again;  that  is,  by  using  a  leather  pad 
of  sufficient  thickness  to  bring  pressure  on  the  frog  when  the 
foot  is  planted.  If  at  any  time  the  sole  will  give  under  heavy 
pressure  of  the  thumbs,  the  sole  is  too  thin. 

Tools  for  shoeing  animals  are  issued  by  both  the  Ordnance  De- 
partment and  the  Quartermaster's  Department. 

For  winter  use  or  when  necessary  and  when  calked  shoes  are  not 
issued,  toe  calks  are  supplied  at  the  rate  of  one  (J  pound)  per  shoe. 

The  allowance  of  smithing  coal  is,  for  each  100  animals,  30  pounds 
in  Equipment  A,  60  pounds  in  Equipment  B.  (See  Preface.) 

Animals  should  be  shod  at  least  once  a  month.  The  animals' 
feet  should  be  inspected  carefully  and  cleaned  out  at  least  twice 
a  day.  If  an  animal  goes  lame  suddenly  on  the  march,  look  over 
his  feet  and  see  whether  he  has  gotten  a  stone  wedged  somewhere 
about  the  hoof.  It  is  remarkable  how  careless  the  average  man  is 
with  reference  to  this — probably  the  most  important — part  of  the 
animal. 

The  Ordnance  Department  tools  and  issues  (see  PL  XXIX, 
XXIXa,  XXIXb,  and  XXX)  are  as  follows. 


IDS 


HORSESHOER. 


PLATE  XXIX. 


HORSESHOER. 


107 


PLATE  XXIXa. 


108 


HORSESHOER. 


45 


PLATE  XXIXb. 


HORSESHOER. 


109 


PLATE  XXX. 


110 


HORSESHOER. 

Blacksmith's  tools. 


s 

Article. 

Number  issued  to  1— 

I 
g 

J 

P 

5 
| 

C3 

M 

Battery  or  regimental  headquar 
ters  including  band  of  moun- 
tain artillery. 

Cavalry  troop. 

Engineer  company,  pioneer. 

.& 

CO 

r>> 

a 

c8 

& 
B  . 
8& 

fi  0 

£2 

&2 

a>  ^ 

3 
% 

^ 

3 

in 

Machine-gun  troop  or  headquar- 
ters troop. 

Regimental  headquarters  includ- 
ing band  of  heavy  horse  or  light 
artillery. 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 
6 

7 
8 
9 

10 
11 
12 

13 

14 
15 
16 

17 

IS 

ig 

20 
21 
22 

23 

24 

25 
26 

27 

f  Anvil,  17.5  pounds  

1 

1 

1 

\Anvil,  34  pounds 

1 

1 
1 

i 
i 

Apron,  blacksmith's  

2 

Bag,  canvas,  for  nails 

Anvil,  100  pounds  

1 

Box,  shoeing,  leather 

1 
.... 

1 

1 
1 

i 

Chisel,handled,forcoldiron,lpound,6ounces 
Chisel,  cold,  8-inch  

1 

i 

1 

1 

Chisel,  handled,  for  cold  iron,  2  pounds  

1 

Chisel,  handled,  for  hot  iron,  1.5  pounds.  . 

1 

Clinch  cutter  

1 

1 
1 

1 

! 

1 

i 
i 

1 
1 

1 
1 

Clinching  iron 

1 

Greaser,  steel  handled 

Chest  for  tools 

1 

1 

Drills,  flat  

6 

1 

i  0 

iG 

16 

(File,  flat,  12-inch  bastard 

<Filc,  12-inch,  flat,  second  cut.  . 

1 

1 
1 
1 

! 

1 
1 

1 

[File,  8-inch,  three-square  taper 

1 
1 

Fire  rake 

1 
1 
1 

Fire  shovel.. 

1 

Flatter,  handled,  1  5-inch  square  face 

Fore  punch  and  creaser,  double  headed  

1 

Forge,  portable 

1 

Forge  and  bellows 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

Hammer,  hand,  2  pounds 

1 

1 

Hammer,  riveting,  1  pound*2  ounces 

1 

Hammer,rounding,  14-inch  handle,  2  pounds 
Hammer,  shoeing,  10  ounces 

.... 

1 

1 
1 

1 
1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

Handle,  file,  aluminum 

Handle  spare  for  cold  chisel 

2 

2 

9 

(Hardie,  .75  square  shank,  1  25  bit 

1 

<  Hardie,  5  square  shank  15  bit 

1 

1 

1 

Hardie,  .562  (•&)  square  shank,  1  bit 

1 

1 

Hoof  and  cutting  nippers 

1 

1 

Hoofparer  12-inch 

.... 

1 

1 

1 

Oiler... 

1  For  use  in  garrisen  only. 


HORSESHOER. 

Blacksmith's  tools — -Continued. 


Ill 


fj 

.1 

£ 

Article. 

Number  issued  to  1  — 

! 

8 

oT 

1 

-—  >. 

!'! 

o 

i 

i 

Batteiy  or  regimental  headquar- 
ters including  band  of  moun- 
tain artillery. 

|  Cavalry  troop. 

"E 

£ 

i 
A 
i 

8 
1 

& 

03 

£ 

O  CO 

So  2 

0)  H 
0 

•a 

3 

5 

Machine-gun  troop  or  headquar- 
ters troop. 

Regimental  headquarters  includ- 
ing band  of  heavy  horse  or  light 
artillery. 

28 

29 

30 
31 

32 
33 

34 
35 
30 
37 
38 

39 
40 

41 

42 
43 

44 

45 
40 

47 

(Pritchel,  75  flats,  9-inch 

1 

1 

1 

(  Pritchel    562  (A,  )  flats  9-inch 

1 

1 

Punch,  round,  375-inch 

i 

Punch  round    312  (A,)  inch 

1 

1*  Punch,  nail 

i 

1 

i 

1 

1 

Punch,  square    

i 

i 

1  1 

ii 

l  1 

Rivet  sets,  sizes  .  187  (A),  .25,  .375,  .5,  and 
625 

5 

Rule,  boxwood,  2-foot,  4-fold     ...     . 

1 

Screw  plate,  taps  and  dies,  with  tap  wrench, 
in  chest  

1 

Shoeing  knife 

2 

1 
1 
1 

1 
1 
1 

2  1 

i 
i 

i 

i 

1 
1 

1 

1 

Shoeing  pincers  12  inches 

Shoeing  rasp,  16-inch 

i 
i 

1 

1 

21 

1 

21 

Sledge,  11  pounds  

Square 

1 

Schaller  forge 

1 

1 

i 
i 

1 

Schaller  forge  tool  chest 

1 

Toe  knife 

1 

i 

1 
1 

1 

1 

fTongs,  horseshoer's,  1  5  pounds,  12-inch 

1 

1 

\Tongs,  horseshoer's  18  5  ounces 

1 

i 

1 

/Tongs,  for  .25  iron 

1 

\Tongs,  for  5  iron 

1 

Tool  kit,  small 

i 

i 

.... 

1 

.1 

Tool  kit,  for  Schaller  forge 

1 

{Vise..     . 

3  1 

Vise,  modified  to  fit  battery  wagon. 

<1 

i 

Vise,  2.5  jaws. 

1 

1 

i 
i 

1 

Whetstone,  farrier's,  10-inch 

1 

1 

1 

Wrench,  forge  ...  . 

fWrench,  screw,  12-inch 

1 

\Wrench,  screw,  8-inch. 

1 

i 

....    i 

1  For  use  in  garrison  only. 

2  Ordered  with  pack  outfit. 

3  Ordered  with  battery  wagon  for  light  or  horse  battery  only. 

4  Ordered  with  battery  wagon  for  heavy  battery  only. 


76881°  —  15 


8 


112  HORSESHOER. 

The  field  outfit  issued  to  the  Cavalry  by  the  Ordnance  Depart- 
ment is  designed  especially  for  portability,  and  is  packed  in  two 
chests. 

Chest  No.  1  (22  by  18  by  13  inches)  contains  a  small  knockdown 
forge  with  fan  and  drivewheel  and  a  complete  set  of  forge  and 
shoeing  tools.  Weight  of  chest,  packed,  122  pounds. 

Chest  No.  2  (21  by  17  by  10  inches)  contains  a  small  anvil  and 
block,  water  bucket,  leather  shoeing  box,  and  apron.  Weight  of 
chest,  packed,  68  pounds. 

The  field  anvil  weighs  17  pounds. 

Description  and  uses  of  the  tools  (from  "Army  Horseshoer")  are 
as  follows  (see  PI.  XXIX  to  XXX,  pp.  106-109): 

The  clinch  cutter  (fig.  8)  consists  of  two  parts — the  blade  and 
the  point.  The  blade  is  used  to  cut  or  to  raise  the  clinches,  being 
placed  under  the  edge  of  the  clinch  and  struck  with  the  driving 
hammer.  The  point  is  used  to  punch  nails  and  stubs  out  of  the 
hoof.  It  is  often  placed  in  the  crease  of  the  shoe,  under  the  head 
of  the  nail  to  be  withdrawn,  and  struck  smartly  with  the  hammer. 
The  blow  raises  the  nail  sufficiently  to  enable  the  pincers  to  grasp 
the  nail  head. 

The  pincers  (fig.  35)  are  used  to  remove  shoes  and  to  draw  nail 
stubs  and  improperly  driven  nails. 

The  driving  hammer  (shoeing  hammer)  (fig.  21)  should  be  used 
only  to  drive  horseshoe  nails,  to  wring  off  nails  after  they  have  been 
properly  driven,  and  to  make  clinches. 

The  nippers  (fig.  25)  are  used  to  remove  the  surplus  growth  of 
wall. 

The  shoeing  knife  (fig.  34)  is  used  to  pare  away  the  dead  horn 
near  the  white  line;  to  remove  loose  particles  from  the  hoof;  to 
relieve  pressure  on  corns  and  cracks;  and  to  open  the  sole  and  wall 
for  the  escape  of  pus  or  for  the  removal  of  foreign  bodies. 

The  horseshoers'  rasp  (fig.  36)  is  used  to  prepare  a  level  bearing 
surface  of  the  foot,  to  remove  extra  length  of  toe,  to  smooth  the 
edges  of  the  wall,  to  even  clinches,  to  make  a  slight  groove  under 
each  clinch,  and  to  run  lightly  over  the  clincers  in  order  to  smooth 
thern. 

The  hammers,  hand  and  rounding  (figs.  18  and  20)  are  used  in  fit- 
ting and  in  turning  shoes. 

The  clinching  iron  (fig.  9)  is  used  to  turn  the  clinches. 

The  tongs  (fig.  41)  are  used  in  handling  hot  metals. 

The  pritchel  (fig.  28)  is  made  by  hand  from  round  or  octagonal 
steel,  and  is  used  for  opening  the  nail  holes  in  horseshoes.  The 
point  is  shaped  the  same  as  the  shank  of  a  nail  near  the  head,  so 
that  the  hole  punched  in  the  shoe  will  fit  the  nail  snugly  and  not 
allow  much  motion.  Examine  the  nail  carefully  and  learn  the  exact 
size  for  the  pritchel.  To  draw  out  the  point  of  the  pritchel,  heat 
it  to  a  cherry  red  and,  placing  the  pointed  end  flat  on  the  face  of 


HORSESHOER.  113 

the  anvil  near  the  far  edge,  strike  with  the  hammer  held  at  an 
angle  to  properly  change  the  upper  face,  turning  it  as  necessary 
so  that  the  finished  point  will  be  of  the  shape  desired.  Never  heat 
the  pritchel  beyond  a  cherry  red;  cool  it  gradually  by  placing  it 
in  the  coal  at  the  edge  of  the  forge  and  never  in  the  water.  The 
face  of  the  horseshoers'  anvil  should  have  a  round  edge  near  the 
base  of  the  horn  on  the  far  side.  This  edge  is  used  for  sharpening 
tools. 

Hardies  (fig.  24)  are  used  to  cut  hot  metals.  Their  principal  use 
for  horseshoers  is  in  cutting  off  the  heels  of  shoes,  and  for  this 
purpose  a  sharp  cutting  edge  is  required.  When  the  hardy  becomes 
dull,  the  edge  is  drawn  out  on  the  face  of  the  anvil  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  pritchel.  A  sharp  edge  is  then  put  on  by  hot 
rasping,  using  the  smooth  side  of  the  rasp.  After  sharpening,  the 
cutting  edge  should  be  tempered  as  follows:  Heat  the  whole  hardy 
slowly  to  a  cherry  red;  hold  the  cutting  edge  under  water  so  that 
about  one-half  inch  of  the  blade  is  immersed,  and,  when  there  is 
no  longer  any  sizzling,  plunge  the  whole  hardy  under  water  and 
remove  it  at  once ;  now  carefully  observe  the  change  in  color  as  the 
remaining  heat  in  the  body  extends  back  to  the  edge;  the  color 
will  be  first  straw,  then  copper,  and  finally  blue;  as  soon  as  the 
blue  color  has  reached  the  cutting  edge,  place  the  whole  hardy 
under  water  and  leave  it  there  until  thoroughly  cooled. 

The  creaser  (fig.  10)  is  used  to  crease  the  shoes  and  to  repair  dam- 
aged creases. 

Horseshoe  nails  retain  the  shoe  on  the  foot.  These  nails  (fur- 
nished in  several  sizes)  are  machine  made  and  pointed;  they  are 
slightly  concave  on  one  side  and  flat  on  the  other.  In  driving  the 
nail  into  the  hoof  the  flat  side  is  held  faced  outward. 

The  anvil. — The  working  parts  of  the  anvil  are  the  horn,  the  face, 
and  the  heel. 

The  face,  or  the  upper  plane  surface,  is  of  steel,  and  is  welded  to 
the  iron  body.  The  anvil  is  firmly  fastened  to  a  wooden  block, 
which  is  sunk  into  the  ground  to  a  depth  that  will  bring  the  surface 
of  the  face  at  a  convenient  working  height  above  the  ground — from 
30  to  36  inches. 

The  horn  is  used  to  open  and  to  shape  shoes,  the  face  to  level  the 
web  and  for  welding,  and  the  heel  to  straighten  heels  of  shoes  and 
to  turn  calks.  Clips  are  ordinarily  drawn  on  the  edge  of  the  face, 
but  in  the  anvil  shown  there  is  an  attachment  near  the  base  of  the 
horn  which  is  used  for  this  purpose.  The  square  hole  in  the  face 
(hardy  hole)  is  a  socket  for  hardies;  the  round  hole  (pritchel  hole) 
permits  the  passage  of  the  pritchel  through  the  nail  hole  of  the 
shoe. 

Plate  XXX  shows  a  section  of  a  portable  forge.  In  every  forge 
air  is  forced  through  the  fire  by  a  bellows  or  a  fan  (F);  the  latter  is 


114 


HORSESHOER. 


made  to  revolve  by  a  drive  wheel  or  by  a  handle  (H).  The  twyer 
ball  (T)  corresponds  to  the  grate  of  a  stove.  Firmly  attached  to  it 
and  extending  toward  the  worker  is  an  iron  rod  by  which  the  ball 
may  be  rocked.  The  end  of  this  rod  is  shown  by  the  small  circle 
in  the  center  of  the  twyer  ball.  A  crater  (C)  should  be  made  around 
the  twyer  ball  in  order  to  confine  the  fire.  Clay  may  be  used  for 
this  purpose,  but  cement  is  better. 

The  quartermaster  set  of  farrier's  and  blacksmith's  tools  issued 
to  each  regiment,  wagon  company,  ambulance  company,  engineer 
train,  engineer  battalion,  and  signal  corps  battalion  (organizations 
having  a  large  number  of  wagons)  consists  of  the  following  articles 
(contained  in  a  substantial  wooden  chest)  (see  PI.  XXXI): 


Figure. 


Article. 


1  Anvil,  small  1 

2  Apron,  leather  1 

3  Chisels,  cold  handled 

4  Chisel,  hot,  handled  » 

5  Chisel,  cold,  hand  1 

6  Clinch  cutter  (buffer)i 

7  Clinch  iron  1 

8  Dividers,  wing 

9  File,  flat,  bastard,  12-inch 

10  Hammer,  ball  pein,  with  handle  » 

11  Hammer,  riveting,  handled 

12  Hammer,  shoeing  » 

13  Hammer,  sledge,  handled 

14  Hardie  » 

15  Knife,  farrier  1 

16  Nippers,  cutting  l 

17  Nippers,  hoof-paring 

18  Pinchers,  farrier  1 

19  Pritchel » 

20  Punches,  hand,  round  l  (2  in  kit) 

21  Rasps,  16-inch  i 

22  Set  stocks  and  dies,  i  to  1 J  inches 

23  Tong,  shoeing  1 

24  Tongs,  large  l , 

25  Vise,  small 

26  Wrenches,  monkey,  18-inch  and  12-inch.. 

27  Wrench,  "S" 


Number. 


1  These  articles,  when  extracted  from  the  set.  form  the  Kit  of  Farrier's  and 
Blacksmith's  Tools  and  form  a  part  of  Equipment  "A."  The  remaining  articles 
are  in  Equipment  "B." 

To  each  infantry  regiment  there  are  issued  two  Horseshoer 's  Emer- 
gency Equipments  (see  PI.  VIII,  p.  41),  one  for  shoeing  animals 
with  the  column  on  the  march  and  one  for  shoeing  animals  with 
the  field  trains.  The  outfits  are  carried  by  the  horseshoer  or  acting 
horseshoer.  (Seep.  38.) 


HORSESHOER. 


115 


116  HORSESHOER. 

Two  sets  of  shoes,  one  set  on  the  feet  and  the  other  already  fitted 
(and  8  horseshoe  nails  per  shoe),  for  each  animal  are  a  part  of  the 
equipment  of  an  escort  wagon.  Each  mounted  man  carries  one 
fitted  fore  shoe  and  one  fitted  hind  shoe  and  16  horseshoe  nails  as 
part  of  his  equipment.  All  shoeing  materials  (coal,  fitted  shoes, 
extra  nails,  etc.)  for  animals  provided  with  store  wagons  or  store 
pack  mules  are  carried  in  the  combat  train. 

It  is  difficult  to  keep  the  horseshoer  or  blacksmith  from  using  the 
fitted  shoes  carried  on  the  mount  or  in  the  vehicle.  These  should 
be  used  only  on  the  march.  The  teamster  or  the  mounted  man 
should  resist  any  attempt  to  use  these  shoes  at  any  other  time,  and 
if  it  is  necessary  to  use  them  he  should  replace  them  at  the  very 
earliest  opportunity. 

Horseshoes  for  the  ordinary  mount  run  about  No.  3  or  No.  4;  they 
require  No.  6  horseshoe  nails,  or,  for  horses  hard  on  shoes,  No.  7. 
Draft  horses  use  as  high  as  No.  7  shoes  and  require  No.  8  nails. 
Mules  ordinarily  use  No.  2  or  No.  3  (mostly  the  latter)  mule  shoes. 
They  require  No.  6  horseshoe  nails.  There  are  100  pounds  of  shoes 
in  a  keg  and  a  keg  contains  85  No.  3  mule  shoes  or  100  No.  2  mule 
shoes.  Horseshoe  nails  run  about  120  to  the  pound. 

There  are  four  nail  holes  on  each  side  of  the  shoe,  but  ordinarily 
only  the  three  front  ones  are  driven  on  the  outside  and  the  two  front 
ones  on  the  inside  for  riding  horses,  and  four  and  three,  respectively, 
on  draft  horses.  The  number  depends,  however,  on  how  severe  the 
animal  is  on  shoes.  Horseshoe  nails  are  curved  on  one  side  and 
are  straight  on  the  other;  the  nail  is  driven  with  the  straight  side 
toward  the  outer  edge  of  the  hoof. 

In  preparing  the  hoof  for  shoeing  and  in  nailing  the  shoe  on,  the 
structure  of  the  foot  should  be  borne  in  mind.  Attention  is  drawn 
to  the  accompanying  cuts  of  the  foot  (PL  XXXII)  and  of  the  hoof 
(PI.  XXXIII).  The  membranes  and  tissuesof  the  foot  are  probably 
more  tender,  or,  being  so  closely  confined,  require  more  delicate 
treatment  than  those  of  any  other  part  of  the  body.  On  the  other 
hand,  they  are  subjected  to  the  most  pounding  and  often  they  re- 
ceive the  least  care.  Men  who  would  be  very  careful  of  the  founda- 
tion of  a  house  are  most  neglectful  when  it  comes  to  the  foundation 
of  the  horse.  The  hoofs  of  the  horse  and  mule  correspond  closely 
to  the  nails  on  the  fingers  or  the  toes;  think  of  how  very  painful 
any  injury  to  the  nail  is  and  it  can  be  appreciated  how  tenderly 
the  hoofs  should  be  treated. 

First  shape  the  hoof  so  that  when  viewed  from  the  front  and  from 
the  side,  the  axis  of  the  pastern  (that  is,  between  the  ankle  and  the 
hoof)  and  the  center  line  of  the  hoof  are  parallel.  In  removing  the 
wall,  begin  at  the  toe.  When  the  proper  position  has  been  obtained, 
the  edge  of  the  hoof  should  be  rasped  off  very  slightly — just  enough  to 
take  off  the  sharp  edge.  Then  the  shoe  should  be  fitted  to  this 


HORSESHOER. 


117 


118 


HORSESHOER. 


shape — do  not  ever  shape  the  hoof  to  the  shoe;  if  in  circumstances 
where  reshaping  of  the  shoe  is  impossible,  it  is  better  to  tack  the 
shoe  on  as  nearly  symmetrical  as  practicable  and  have  the  work 
properly  done  at  the  first  opportunity. 

In  preparing  the  feet  for  the  shoe,  no  cutting  whatever,  with  a 
knife,  is  permitted  except  slightly  at  the  toe  to  make  a  seat  for  the 
toe  clip,  when  such  is  used. 

It  is  safer  never  to  apply  a  hot  shoe  to  the  hoof,  but,  if  at  all,  then 
only  for  an  instant  to  see  whether  the  hoof  is  level. 


I' i. ATI:  XX XIII. —Horse's  hoof. 


1.  Frog. 

2.  Bar. 


3.  Cleft  of  frog. 

4.  Sole. 


5.  White  line. 

6.  Wall. 


In  removing  surplus  growth  of  the  wall  (the  only  part  which 
should  be  touched  at  all  with  a  cutting  tool),  use  the  cutting 
pincers  or  the  rasp.  It  is  dangerous  to  use  a  knife,  because  the 
pressure  required  to  cut  is  so  great  that  the  shoer  may  cut  into  the 
sensitive  parts  before  he  knows  it. 

A.  large  percentage  of  animals  have  dry  hoofs  and,  as  a  result, 
contracted  heels.  Contracted  heels  are  caused  also  by  faulty 
shoeing,  by  putting  nails  in  the  hoof  back  of  the  middle  half,  by 
cutting  away  the  bars,  by  ' '  opening  the  heels, "  or  by  giving  an 
inclination  inward  to  the  upper  surface  of  the  heels  of  the  shoes. 


HORSESHOER.  119 

The  hoofs  should  be  softened  (see  Dry  Hoofs,  p.  50),  shoes  be  nailed 
on  properly,  and  shoes  so  shaped  as  to  spread  the  hoof  at  the  heels 
by  giving  the  upper  surface  of  the  heels  of  the  shoe  a  slight  inclina- 
tion downward  toward  the  outer  edges. 

Interfering  may  be  either  the  striking  of  the  inside  of  the  fetlocks 
by  the  hoof  of  the  foot  alongside  or  by  striking  the  fore  shoe,  hoof,  or 
quarter  (just  above  the  hoof),  by  the  hoofs  of  the  hind  feet  (called 
' '  forging  " ) .  The  fault  is  caused  principally  by  faulty  shoeing  or  by 
weakness  or  fatigue  of  the  animal.  If  due  to  weakness,  of  course  the 
animal  should  be  built  up.  If  the  fault  is  detected  shortly  after 
shoeing,  an  inspection  should  be  made  to  ascertain  whether  the 
shoe  protrudes  beyond  the  hoof,  and  the  clinches  smoothed  off. 
The  striking  portion  may  be  detected  by  chalking  the  part  which 
is  struck,  trotting  the  horse  off;  when  the  hoof  strikes,  the  chalk 
will  rub  off  onto  the  hoof. 

Sometimes  the  outer  bar  of  the  shoe  is  weighted  (by  making  it 
broader)  and  this  causes  the  foot  to  be  carried  wide  in  planting. 
Forging  can  sometimes  be  remedied  by  rolling  the  toe,  that  is 
shaping  it  much  the  same  as  it  becomes  after  considerable  wear; 
this  causes  the  back  of  the  hoof  to  turn  up  quicker  than  it  would 
ordinarily,  and  thus  clears  the  hind  hoof  as  it  moves  forward. 

Ankle  boots,  of  leather,  for  interfering  at  the  fetlocks  and  quarter 
boots  for  forging  are  the  last  resorts  if  strengthening  physically  and 
shoeing  properly  do  not  remedy  the  faults. 

The  heels  of  the  shoe  should  not  extend  beyond  the  heels  of  the 
hoof.  At  the  heels  the  shoe  is  allowed  to  extend  outside  the  outer 
edge  of  the  wall  about  J  of  an  inch.  The  shoes  as  issued  have  nail 
holes  too  small;  these  should  be  opened  to  receive  the  nail  heads. 

With  the  foot  shaped  and  the  shoe  fitted  to  the  proper  shape,  the 
nails  are  next  driven.  Be  very  careful  in  driving  the  first  nail. 
It  is  a  fine  piece  of  work  to  place  the  shoe  exactly  in  its  proper 
position.  When  in  position,  drive  the  first  nail  (second  from  the 
front — exactly  in  the  middle  of  the  hole)  just  far  enough  so  it  will 
hold ;  then  look  again  to  see  if  the  shoe  sits  right,  and  if  so,  drive  the 
nail  home.  Afteranail  nasbeen  driven,  the  shoe  should  notbe  ham- 
mered sidewise  because  that  will  only  loosen  the  nails  by  enlarging 
the  nail  holes  and  the  shoe  will  always  be  loose,  and  before  long  the 
job  must  be  done  again.  After  the  tacking  on  into  proper  position 
has  been  accomplished,  the  nail  on  the  opposite  side  is  then  driven. 
The  others  are  then  driven  in  order — usually  alternating  sides. 
Each  nail  as  it  is  driven  is  bent  back  at  right  angles  to  the  hoof  and 
the  point  is  twisted  off  with  the  claw  of  the  hammer. 

When  all  the  nails  have  been  driven,  the  foot  is  raised  and  a  piece 
of  iron  (usually  the  pinchers)  with  a  right-angled  shoulder  is  held 
against  the  wall  and  against  the  end  of  each  nail,  and  the  nail  ham- 
mered on  the  head.  Then  the  foot  is  carried  forward  and  rested  on 


120  HORSESHOES,. 

the  knee;  a  slight  groove  is  rasped  under  the  ends  of  the  nails  and 
they  are  clinched  in  succession,  the  pinchers  or  iron  being  held 
on  the  head  of  the  nail  as  it  is  being  clinched.  When  clinched, 
the  ends  are  rasped  slightly  to  make  them  smooth. 

No  nails  should  be  driven  back  of  the  line  where  the  hoof  starts  to 
curve  in;  that  is,  where  the  "quarter"  begins,  or,  in  other  words, 
in  the  back  half  of  the  hoof.  To  do  so  prevents  the  natural  ex- 
pansion and  growth  of  the  foot. 

Nails  should  not  be  driven  inside  the  "white  line,  "  because  this 
marks  the  boundary  of  sensitive  portion  of  the  foot.  The  shoe 
should  not  press  against  the  sole  at  any  point;  this  will  not  occur 
if  the  top  surface  of  the  shoe  is  made  level.  In  driving  horseshoe 
nails  be  sure,  by  the  time  they  have  gone  into  the  hoof  £  of  an 
inch,  that  they  are  going  with  considerable  resistance,  which  shows 
that  they  are  penetrating  horn  and  not  the  "quick"  or  an  old  nail 
hole. 

Horses  or  mules  upon  which  it  is  difficult  to  keep  shoes,  are  com- 
monly shod  with  a  clip  on  the  toe  of  the  shoe.  In  order  to  prevent 
the  shoe's  sticking  out  in  front,  due  to  the  clip,  a  seat  is  cut  in  the 
wall  at  the  toe  just  large  enough  to  contain  the  clip.  To  do  this, 
the  foot  is  raised  and  the  shoe  held  in  its  proper  position,  clip 
resting  against  the  toe  of  the  hoof,  and  the  position  of  the  clip  is 
marked  on  the  wall  with  the  knife.  The  wall  is  then  very  carefully 
whittled  away,  little  by  little,  to  make  a  proper  seat.  If  too  much 
be  cut  away,  the  value  of  the  clip  is  lost. 

If  a  shoe  becomes  loose  slightly,  it  can  be  tightened  by  reclinch- 
ing  the  ends  of  the  nails,  as  explained  above.  If  the  shoe  becomes 
very  loose,  such  clinching- will  probably  do  little  good,  for  the  holes 
are  worn  large.  In  this  case  the  shoe  should  be  reset,  but  if  this 
be  not  practicable  for  the  time,  two  (one  on  each  side)  or  more  nails 
may  be  removed  and  new  nails  driven  at  slightly  different  angle. 
In  removing  a  nail,  the  clinched  end  should  be  cut  off  before  the 
nail  is  pulled  through  the  hoof.  The  clinch  cutter  in  the  black- 
smith outfit  is  ordinarily  used  for  this  purpose,  but  a  cold  chisel  or 
any  blunt  sharpened  edge  will  do.  After  the  clinch  is  cut  off 
the  nail  may  be  driven  part  or  all  the  way  out  by  using  another 
nail,  but  very  carefully. 

If  necessary  to  remove  a  shoe  which  is  almost  off — hanging  by  one 
or  two  nails  at  one  side  only — care  must  be  taken  not  to  bend  it 
off  over  the  edge  of  the  hoof,  for  that  will  almost  certainly  break 
away  all  the  wall  between  the  clinched  end  and  the  bottom. 
Instead,  raise  the  shoe  as  far  as  practicable  without  forcing  the 
nails  and  place  a  piece  of  iron  or  wood  between  bottom  of  the  hoof 
and  the  shoe  and  pry  the  tight  part  of  the  shoe  up.  It  should  not 
be  necessary  to  do  this,  however,  if  the  clinched  end  be  straight- 
ened or  removed  before  attempting  to  remove  the  shoe. 


INDEX. 

Page. 

Abscess 52 

"A"  equipment 7 

Allowances: 

Accessories,  escort  wagon 66,  67 

Coal,  smithing 105 

Forage '. 22 

Grain 22 

Grease,  axle 67,  68 

Hay 22 

Medicines 33,  36,  43,  45 

Nails,  horseshoe. 67, 116 

Picket  line : 12 

Saddlers,  materials,  ordnance 85 

Saddlers,  materials,  quartermaster 93, 103 

Shoes,  horse  and  mule 67 

Soap,  harness 66,  67 

Water 23 

Weight  on  escort  wagon 21,  58 

Aparejo 96 

Apothecaries  measure 31 

'  'Army  six' '  wagon 58 

Baggage  section 8 

Bags,  saddle,  veterinarians 34 

Balking 17, 18 

Barley ...         22 

"B"  equipment 7 

Bites 53 

Biting 16 

Bitting 19 

Blacksmith  tools 106, 114 

Blacksmith  and  farrier's  kit 103, 114 

Bleeding 54 

Boils,  collar 55 

'  'Breaking' '  horses 17 

Bridle,  rope 12 

Bruises 55 

Bushel,  weights,  grain,  per 30 

Calk,  toe,  shoe 105, 120 

Canker : 51 

Carbolic  acid 33 

121 


122  INDEX. 

Care  of —  Page. 

Animals 10 

Aparejo 101 

Harness 79 

Wagons 68 

Cargador's  kit 103 

Catarrh 46 

'  'C' '  equipment 7 

Checkrein 19 

Chests,  veterinary 's  field 34 

Chevrons: 

Farrier's 25 

Horseshoer 104 

Saddler 75 

Wagoner 57 

Cincha 98 

Cleanliness , 10, 12,  74,  79, 101 

Cleaning — 

Aparejo 101 

Harness 74,  79 

Wounds 54 

Clips,  shoe 120 

Coal,  smithing 105 

Colds... 46 

Colic  mixture 45 

Collar  boils 74 

Collar  pads  necessary 74,  78 

Combat  train 8 

Containers,  amounts  in 31 

Contracted  heels 51 

Corn,  ration , 22 

Corona 96 

Corrosive  sublimate 24,  33 

Cribbing 15 

Decimal  system . .  30 

Destroying  animals 33 

Detection  of  disease 26 

Diarrhea . .  47 

Diseases,  external 49 

Diseases,  internal - 45,  46 

Disinfectants 33 

Distance,  table  of 32 

Drowning,  rescuing  from .    . 57 

Dry  hoofs 50 

Dry  measure 

Duties  of  teamster 57,  74 


INDEX.  123 

Page. 

Eczema 53 

Equipment  "A" 7 

Equipment  "  B  " 7 

Equipment  "  C  " 7 

Equipment,  escort  wagon 58 

Equipment,  farrier's 33,  38, 114 

Equipment,  harness 75 

Equipment,  horseshoer's  emergency 38 

Equipment,  mounted 75 

Equipment,  veterinarian's 34 

Excessive  urinating 48 

Eyes,  sore 52 

Farrier Chapter  II 

Chevrons 25 

Duties 25-56 

Field  equipment 38 

General  instructions 25 

Medicines,  list  of,  for 33,  43 

Feed,  kinds 22 

Feed,  weights 30 

Feed,  to  tell  good 22 

Fever  mixture 45 

Field  equipment,  farrier's 38 

Field  equipment,  veterinarian's 34 

Field  service 7 

Field  training 7 

Fitting  harness 78 

Forage 21 

Fording 57 

Founder * 24,  50 

Four-mule  harness 76,  77 

Four-mule  team 59 

Frequency  of  shoeing 105 

Fright,  to  cure 10 

Galls,  saddle  or  collar 55 

General  instruction: 

Farrier 25 

Horseshoer 104 

Regarding  animals 10 

Saddler 75 

Teamster  or  wagoner 74 

Giving  medicines 43 

Glanders 25 

Grain,  feeding 22 

Grain ,  ration 22 


124  INDEX. 

Page. 

Grain,  to  tell  good : 22 

Grain,  weights 30 

Grease,  axle 66, 68 

Grooming 20 

Halter,  rope 12 

Harness: 

Fitting 78 

Four-mule 66 

Lead 75 

Mender 93 

Repairing 80 

Six-mule 62,  75 

Wheel 75 

Healing,  first  intention 54 

Healing,  granulation 54 

Heat,  as  disinfectant 33 

Heat,  exhaustion 48 

Hobbling 16 

Hoof,  dry 50 

Hoof,  puncture 49 

Horseshoeing Chapter  VI 

Horseshoer,  the  Army 104 

Horseshoer,  chevron 104 

Horseshoer,  emergency  equipment 38 

Horseshoer's  allowances 105 

Horseshoes,  kinds 116 

Horseshoe  nails 116 

Influenza 46 

Injuries 53 

Inspection,  animals 25 

Inspection,  feed 21 

Inspection,  harness 74 

Inspection,  wagons 74 

Instructions,  general 10 

Instructions,  farrier 25 

Instructions,  teamster 57,  74 

Instruments,  farrier's 

Instruments,  veterinary 34 

Instruments,  uses 42 

Interfering 56, 119 

Iodine 45,  56 

Jack,  wagon 68 

Kicking  animals 15, 16, 17, 19 

Kicks,  treatment 55 

Killing  animals 


INDEX.  125 

Page. 

Kindness 10, 14, 26, 28 

Kit,  blacksmith's 103,  114 

Kit,  cargador's 103 

Kit,  carpenter's  and  wheelwright's 69 

Kit,  saddler's 90 

Lameness 49 

Lashing,  rope , 96 

Lashing  packs 101 

Lead  bars 58 

Lead  harness 

Length,  tables  of 32 

Lice 53 

Lime 24 

Line,  picket 12 

Mange 53 

Manure,  disposal  of 24 

Materials,  repair,  ordnance 85 

Materials,  repair,  quartermaster 93 

Measures,  tables  of 32 

Medicines,  allowances 36,  45 

Medicines  for  farrier's  use 33,  43 

Medicines  for  veterinarian's  use 33 

Medicines,  table  of 32,  45 

Mercury  bichloride 33,  36 

Nails,  horseshoe,  allowance 67, 116 

Nails,  horseshoe,  kinds 116 

"Near"  and  "Off,"  definition 17,20 

Neat's-foot  oil 66 

Oats 30,  22 

Oil,  neat's-foot 66,  80 

Ordnance,  blacksmith's  tools 105 

Ordnance,  carpenter's  tools 69 

Ordnance,  farrier's  tools 105 

Ordnance,  repair  materials 85 

Ordnance,  saddler's  tools 83 

Outfit,  packing 96 

Packing Chapter  V 

Paint 

Pannier 34 

Pawing 15 

Picket  line 12 

Pneumonia 46 

Pocket  case,  farrier's  instrument 38,  40,  42 

Pocket  case,  veterinarian's  instrument 34,  35 

Pulling  back 16 


126  INDEX. 

Page. 

Punctures,  hoof 49 

Quartermaster  Department: 

Carpenter  and  wheelwright  tools 69 

Carpenter  and  wheelwright  kits 69 

Farrier's  tools 114 

Harness  mender 93 

Horseshoer  tools 38, 105, 114 

Saddler's  kit 90 

Saddler's  tools 83,  90 

Table  of  allowances 33 

Transportation,  kinds 8,  21,  58 

Ration,  forage 22 

Ration  section 8 

Rearing 18 

Rein  check 19 

Removing  shoes 120 

Repairs,  harness 80,  93, 103 

Repairs,  materials 80,  93, 103 

Restraining  animals 28 

Retention  of  urine 48 

Rivets,  allowance 93 

Riveting 95 

Rope  bridle 12 

Rope  burns 12,  56 

Rope  halter 12 

Rope,  lair 96 

Rope,  lash 96 

Rope,  lashing 96 

Routine  duties  of  teamster 74 

Runaways 19 

Saddle  bags,  veterinarian's 34 

Saddlegalls 55,78 

Saddler Chapter  IV 

Saddler,  materials  for 85 

Saddler  tools,  ordnance 83 

Saddler  tools,  quartermaster 80 

Scratches 10,  g 

Section,  baggage 

Section,  ration 

Set,  ' '  wheel' '  and  ' '  lead  "  harness 75 

Shelter 24 

Shoeing Chapter       VI 

Shoeing  outfit,  ordnance 105 

Shoeing  outfit,  quartermaster 38, 114 

Shoer,  The  Army  Horse 104 


INDEX.  127 

Page. 

Shoer,  horse,  emergency  equipment 38,41 

Shoes,  horse,  allowances «. 116 

Shoes,  horse,  nails 116 

Shoes,  horse,  removing 120 

Shoes,  horse,  sizes 116 

Shoes,  horse,  tightening 120 

Shooting  animals 33 

Single  set  harness 1 66 

Sore  eyes 52 

Sprains 50 

Stalled  or  stuck 57 

Strangles 46 

Sublimate,  corrosive 24 

Sulphur 33 

Sunstroke 48 

Teamster Chapter  III 

Throwing  horses 29 

Thrush 51 

Ticks 53 

Training,  horse 17 

Train,  combat 8 

Train,  field 8 

Transportation,  classes 8,  21,  58 

Urine,  excessive 48 

Urine,  retention  of 48 

Wagon,  "Army-six  " 58 

Wagoner Chapter  IV 

Wagon,  escort 58 

Wagon,  escort,  accessories 66 

Wagon,  escort,  capacity 21 

Wagon,  escort,  care  of 68 

Wagon,  escort,  greasing 68 

Wagon,  escort,  parts 58 

Water,  amount  required 23 

Watering 23 

Watering,  prohibited  when  warm 10 

Wheel,  extra 67 

Wheel,  harness,  definition 75 

Worms 47 

Wounds,  classes 53 

Wounds,  treatment 54 

o 

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