U C
JC-NRLF
*B S7fi MbS
MANUAL
FARRIERS. HORSESHOERS, SADDLERS
AND WAGONERS OR TEAMSTERS
1914
GIFT OF
WAR DEPARTMENT
OFFICE OF THE CHIEF OF STAFF
MANUAL
FOR
Farriers, Horseshoers, Saddlers
and Wagoners or Teamsters
1914
WASHINGTON
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE
1915
\
WAR DEPARTMENT,
Document No. 486.
OFFICE OF THE CHIEF OF STAFF.
WAR DEPARTMENT,
OFFICE OF THE CHIEF OF STAFF,
December 16, 1914.
The following instructions in elementary duties of the farrier,
horseshoer, saddler, and wagoner or teamster, compiled in the
Division of Militia Affairs, under the direction of Brig. Gen. Albert
L. Mills, General Staff, Chief, Division of Militia Affairs, is ap-
proved and herewith published for the information of the Organized
Militia.
It is believed that these instructions are all that need be mas-
tered to dp in a satisfactory manner the work ordinarily required.
For situations not covered within, the services of a veterinarian or
those especially skilled in the respective trades of the horseshoer,
saddler, and wheelwright must be secured.
By order of the Secretary of War:
H. L. SCOTT,
Brigadier General, Chief of Staff.
313491
CONTENTS.
Pago.
Preface
General instructions for handling animals Chapter I
Vices 14
Training horses 17
Grooming 20
Feeding . . .. 21
Watering 1 23
Shelter 24
Farrier Chapter II
General instructions 25
Detecting disease 25
Restraining animals 28
Table of weights and measures 29
Disinfectants 33
Equipment 33
Veterinarians 34
Pannier 34
Farrier 38
Hprseshoers' emergency 38
Medicines 36, 43
Diseases, internal 46
Diseases, external 49
Injuries 53
Wounds 54
Bruises 55
Saddle galls 55
Wagoner or teamster Chapter III
General instructions 57
Feeding and watering 57
Grooming 57
Classes of transportation 58
Classes of harness 66
Harness 68
Wagon, care of 68
Routine of teamsters' duties 74
Saddler Chapter IV
Harness and mounted equipment 75
5
6 CONTENTS.
Saddler— Continued. Page.
Harness fitting 78
Harness, care of 79
Harness repairs 80
Tools, ordnance 83
Materials 85
Tools, quartermaster 90, 93
Packing Chapter V
Uses of pack mule 96
Aparejo and accessories 96
Placing aparejo 99
Lashing packs 101
Blacksmiths' kit 103
Cargador's kit 103
Horseshoer Chapter VI
* ' The Army Horseshoer " 104
Purpose of shoeing 104
Frequency 105
Shoeing outfits 105
Ordnance 105
Description of tools 112
Quartermaster
Blacksmith and farrier's kit 114
Emergency horseshoer's equipment 114
Shoes, allowance 116
Kinds 116
Nails 116
Shoeing.
Preparing hoof 116
Preparing shoe 116
Nailing 119
Clips 120
To tighten shoe
To remove shoe 120
MANUAL FOR FARRIERS, HORSESHOERS, SAD-
DLERS, AND WAGONERS OR TEAMSTERS.
PREFACE.
This manual is prepared as a guide for those who may be entrusted
with Government animals but who may not have an opportunity
to refer to professionals the many perplexing questions which arise
in actual service.
Many authorities have been consulted and the ideas gleaned
therefrom have been incorporated where applicable to a pamphlet
of this character.
The subject of duties of the farrier has been prepared principally
from notes by Dr. Ingild Hansen, Veterinarian, Quartermaster
Corps.
Reference is made in several places within to " Field service"
and equipments "A", "B," and "C," and to "Combat train/'
"Field train," "Baggage section," and "Ration section," which
the following will explain:
Field service includes service in any of the following cases: In
campaign, simulated campaign, or on the march. In mobiliza-
tion, concentration, instruction, or maneuver camps.
Equipment A, as referred to herein, is the equipment for use in
campaign, simulated campaign, or on the march, and includes the
articles then worn on the person, carried on horse or pack mule,
and transported in the wagons of combat trains and in the baggage
section of field trains.
Equipment B, as referred to herein, is the equipment which, in
addition to equipment A, is prescribed for the use of troops in
mobilization, concentration, instruction, or maneuver camps, and
during such pauses in operations against an enemy as permit of the
better care of troops .
sary for field service, and is therefore the sum of equipment A plus
equipment B.
Articles distinctively for winter use do not form a part of the
field equipment unless specially ordered by proper authority.
8 PREFACE.
EXTRACTS FROM FIELD SERVICE REGULATIONS.
274 . Trains . — Transportation attached to organizations is grouped
under the following heads, i. e.:
(a) The trains assigned to organizations smaller than a brigade
designated combat and field trains, respectively.
(6) The trains assigned to divisions, designated ammunition,
supply, sanitary, and engineer trains, respectively.
In addition to the foregoing there are ammunition, supply, sani-
tary, and engineer columns which are attached to and belong to
the advance section of the line of communications. (See par. 279).
275. Combat trains. — Combat trains include all personnel,
vehicles, and animals attached to organizations for transporting
ammunition reserve and special equipment required during com-
bat, including the mule or cart carrying sanitary first aid equip-
ment. To them also are attached those vehicles required for the
technical service of engineers and signal troops. Combat trains
remain at all times with the unit to which attached and follow it
into action. In the cavalry and field artillery it may be advisable
to temporarily separate combat trains from the troops.
276. Field trains. — Field trains include all personnel, vehicles,
and animals attached to organizations or headquarters for the
transportation of the authorized allowance of baggage, rations, and
grain, and include rolling kitchens, if supplied. Wagons of
sutlers, correspondents, etc., accompanying a field force by proper
authority are assigned to the field train of the organization to which
their owners are attached. On the march the headquarters wagons
of brigades and divisions are generally attached to some regimental
field train.
Field trains are assigned to regiments and independent battalions
and are habitually divided into two sections: (1) A baggage section
carrying baggage; and (2) a ration section carrying rations and grain
exclusively, and including rolling kitchen, if supplied.
For transportation of baggage each organization is assigned its
proportionate space on the vehicles of the baggage section.
277. When an organization is operating independently, the field
trains are under the direct control of the organization commander.
When organizations are not operating independently, field trains
are ordinarily ordered to be grouped by the division commander
and the senior line officer present with the train assumes command
and moves it as directed by the superior authority. When the
field trains are ordered grouped with the divisional train they are,
for the time being, under the orders of the commander of trains.
The field trains are not again placed at the disposition of the
organization until so ordered by the division commander. During
PREFACE. 9
combat the division commander holds the grouped trains well to
the rear, thus relieving the roads of unnecessary vehicles.
In the late afternoon, or at the end of a march or close of a combat,
the division commander directs the field trains to move up imme-
diately in rear of the troops, and informs the commanding officers
of organizations that their baggage sections and one day's rations
from their ration sections have been ordered to be at a designated
place. The organization commander at once sends an orderly to
the designated place to conduct the vehicles to the organization.
As soon as practicable after the arrival in camp of the ration vehicles
they are unloaded, and, without delay, rejoin the grouped portions
of the ration vehicles. The division commander usually returns
the baggage sections to the same place early the following morning.
CHAPTER I.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDLING
ANIMALS.
Never threaten, strike, or otherwise abuse a horse. Never take
a rapid gait until horse is warmed up by gentle exercise. Never
put up an animal in heated condition; walk him until cool or
throw a blanket over him and rub his legs. If wet, rub with straw
until hair is dry.
In approaching an animal be sure he sees you. Therefore, go
up to him from the front if practicable; if necessary to approach
him from the rear, especially if in a stall, speak to him before
nearing him. Command him firmly to " stand over," go up to his
head on the left side, and pat on the neck.
An animal knows better how to meet an emergency than does a
man; he does it instinctively; if he gets scared there is, almost
without exception, a good reason for it. Therefore, do not punish
a horse for getting scared, and never at all except for well deter-
mined viciousness, and then only at the very time of commission
of the offense. Many times fright is due to defective vision, and
if a horse is punished every time he thinks he sees something
dangerous, he will grow to believe in his eyes, and will get scared
at almost everything. If on the other hand he is petted when
scared, he will see that there is nothing going to hurt him.
The old rule "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"
is particularly applicable to the animals and the equipment in the
field. An army can not afford to carry the pound of cure, but it
can transport the ounce of prevention mostly in the wits and the
fingers of the farrier, saddler, horseshoer, rider, and the driver.
Never feed or water an animal when he is warm unless he is to
move off again and at once — hay will do no harm. If the journey
or exercise is ended, sponging out the mouth and nostrils give
considerable relief.
Never kick an animal and never strike one except with a whip
and immediately after he misbehaves. Never strike an animal
about the head.
The sheath should be washed at least once a month — better once
a week — with warm water and castile soap.
The fetlock should never be trimmed; to do so may lead to the
contraction of a disease known as "scratches," unless the tender
skin at the back of the pastern can be kept clean and dry, which
generally is not practicable in the field.
10
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDLING ANIMALS. 11
PLATE I.— Points of the horse.
Head.
1, Muzzle.
2, Nostril.
3, Forehead.
4, Jaw.
5, Poll.
Neck.
6, 6, Crest.
7, Throttle or windpipe.
Fore quarter.
8, 8, Shoulder blade.
9, Point of shoulder.
10, Bosom or breast.
11, 11, True arm.
12, Elbow.
13, Forearm (arm).
14, Knee.
15, Cannon bone.
16, Back sinew.
17, Fetlock or pastern
joint.
18, Coronet.
19, Hoof or foot.
20, Heel.
Body or middle piece.
21, Withers.
22, Back.
23, 23, Ribs (forming to-
gether the barrel or
chest).
24, 24, The circumference
of the chest at this
point, called the
girth.
25, The loins.
26, The croup.
27, The hip.
28, The flank.
29, Sheath.
30, The root of the dock or
tail.
Hind quarter.
31, The hip joint, round,
or whirlbone.
32, The stifle joint.
33, 33, Lower thigh or gas-
kin.
34, The quarters.
35, The hock.
36, The point of the hock.
37, The curb place.
38, The cannon bone.
39, The back sinew.
40, Pastern or ietlock
joint.
41, Coronet.
42, Hoof or foot.
43, Heel.
44, Spavin place.
12 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDLING ANIMALS.
Animals are tied either to picket line or wagon, or are tethered
out with a lariat, or they may be herded.
There are two sorts of picket lines used — high and low. The
low or ground picket line has been almost entirely discarded. The
high picket line is stretched as tight as practicable at about 4J
feet from the ground, at the posts or forks placed about 30 yards
apart. If wagons are parked on line the picket line may be run
over every fifth wagon, which is run to the front for that purpose;
loaded wagons should be used at the ends.
About 1J yards of picket line are allowed per animal . The animals
are tied on both sides of the line with shank just long enough for
the animal to eat off the ground. If tied with too long a shank,
animals are liable to get their forelegs over and thus cause rope
burns, which are very difficult to cure and always leave a blemish.
Wagons are usually parked (that is, put in line) alongside each
other and the picket line stretched parallel to the line of wagons
and about 10 paces in front of the tongues or poles. The wagons
are ordinarily spaced — if animals are tied to picket line — with an
interval of about a yard between hubs. When animals are tied
to the wagon tongue (two on each side), the distance between hubs
should be about 7 yards.
The feed box should be washed out once a week, care being
taken to get into the corners.
Nose bags should be cleaned frequently, care being taken to get
into the cracks and to expose the inside to rays of the sun.
If weather is cold, before putting the bridle on, the bit should
be warmed by holding in the hand or by blowing the breath on it.
To make a halter of rope: Tie a simple knot at one extreme end;
draw tight. At about 12 inches from this knot tie another simple
knot loosely, then bring the long end back through this last knot,
leaving a loop of about 6 inches, and draw the knot tight. Now,
with the long end tie a simple knot around the short end imme-
diately against the last knot; this should make the loop non-
slipping. Now, at about 3 feet (depending on the length of the
horse's head) tie a simple knot loosely, and insert into it the knot
at the extreme end. Then run the long end through the 6-inch
loop and make it fast to the loop by a simple knot about 6 inches
(same distance as the loop is long) from the knot on the extreme
end. To make the throat latch: Take a length of rope which will
go around the head at the foretop and throat. Weave the two
ends, one on each side, into the head rope of the halter at points
2 inches below the ears. Cut this rope at about 10 inches from the
end on the left side.
To make a rope bridle: Double the rope (which should be about
14 to 16 feet long), make a loop by tying a tight, simple overhand
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDLING ANIMALS, 13
PLATE II.— Skeleton of tne horse.
A, Molar teeth.
B H, Canine or tush.
C I, Incisors.
E, Atlas.
G, Orbit.
M, Cariniform cartilage.
N, Ensiform cartilage.
0, Coracoid process of
scapula.
P, Spine.
g, Cartilage.
, Trochanter major.
S, Subtrochanterian crest.
T, Trochlea.
U, External condyle.
V, Patella.
W, Hock joint.
1, Cranium.
2, Lower jaw.
3, Cervical vertebrae.
4, 4, Dorsal vertebras.
5, 5, Lumbar vertebrae.
6, 6, Sacrum.
7, 7, Coccygeal vertebras.
8, Sternum.
9, 9, True ribs.
10. 10, Cartilages of true
ribs.
11. 11, False ribs.
12. 12, Cartilages of false
ribs.
13, Scapula.
14, Humerus.
15, Radius.
16, Elbow.
17, Ospisiforme.
18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, Carpal
bones.
24, Large metacarpal bone.
25, Outer small metacar-
pal bone.
26, Inner small metacar-
pal bone.
27, 28, Sesamoid bones.
29, Os suffraginis.
30, Os coronas.
31, Ospedis.
32, Wing of the pedal
bone.
33, 34, 35, 36, Os innomi-
natum.
37, Femur.
38, Tibia.
39, Oscalcis.
40, Astragalus.
41, 42, 43, 44, Tarsal bones.
45, Large metatarsal bone.
46, Outer small metatarsal
bone.
47, Inner small metatarsal
bone.
14 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDLING ANIMALS.
knot, including both parts, about 9 inches from the middle point.
Tie another simple knot about 9 inches above the first knot, but
leave it loose — to be drawn over the foretop. Place the loop in
the horse's mouth over the upper jaw, thus bringing the first knot
on the nose. Carry the rope up to the foretop, placing the foretop
through the second knot and drawing the knot tight upon it.
Give the doubled rope a couple of twists, till the twists reach
behind the ears; then carry one part down on each side the throat
and twist together the two parts under the throat until the twist
reaches a point about 2 inches above the upper edge of the mouth
(i. e., where the loop of the rope emerges from the mouth); pass
one part on each side, from rear to front, between the face and
the loop in the mouth and carry the parts (the reins) back on the
neck and tie together evenly.
VICES.
While inspection at the time of purchase is supposed to prevent
the acquisition of unsuitable animals, there will always be found a
few horses and mules which have bad habits or are defective.
Every man charged with the duty of working or caring for animals
should learn to know the peculiarities, both of temperament and of
' physique, of those in his charge. Animals ordinarily meet with
so little kindness that it is easy to gain their confidence and affec-
tion, and once these are gained they can be coaxed to do most any-
thing— certainly everything required in ordinary work.
If an examination shows the horse to be nervous and excitable,
the attendant's actions and words should be calm and soothing. If,
on the other hand, the animal is slow and sluggish, his commands
should be sharp and his actions more severe.
A man who has a horse with broken wind will not expect the same
staying qualities as he would of a horse with strong lungs. (A
broken-winded horse can be detected by the double effort made in
expiration.) If his horse is a "roarer" (one with one side of the
larynx throat paralyzed), he will not be surprised when the horse
goes along wheezing. If a horse is a kicker or biter, the attendant
will govern himself accordingly.
Much is gained by learning these individual peculiarities. For
example, a mare used for racing would often be left at the starting
point; by study it was found that she always propped her legs stiff
and turned about half way to the left, so as to face the inside. It
was soon discovered that in holding her (for she was nervous) at the
start she had invariably been held by an attendant on the left side.
Thereafter the attendant was made to hold her on the right side
and she never "got left at the (starting) post."
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDLING ANIMALS. 15
Another instance: A mule having been assigned to a new driver,
the latter found it impossible to get the bridle on — even with the
assistance of several other men . Kindness and delicacy in handling
the ears were shown, but to no avail. Finally, one man who had a
great deal of confidence in himself (it happened that a "bighead "
turned out all right in this case), said for them all to get away, he'd
"bet he could bridle him." He took the bridle in his hand and
with a firm step and knowing expression walked up to the mule's
head and in a businesslike way proceeded to put the bit in the
mule's mouth, and, without "whoaing" or coddling or gentle
rubbing around the ears, simply but firmly took hold of the mule's
ears and put them through the bridle. That mule saw that the
others were shy and he thought something was wrong. The other
man's manner was all business, and the mule knew he was going
out to work and hence had to have a bridle on.
These instances show how very necessary it is to study each ani-
mal carefully. Many animals, however, have been treated badly
so long that they are confirmed in their bad habits, but these are
almost always due to bad handling on the part of some man who had
less brains than muscle and much less sense than the animal —
because the latter learned how to checkmate by these vices the
man who would be his master. Nevertheless, a few vices are due
to temperament.
Among the vices most frequently encountered are pawing, kick-
ing, biting, pulling back, balking, rearing, and cribbing, and wind-
eucking.
Pawing is caused by nervousness due to pain, thirst, hunger,
loneliness, or habit. There always is good reason , and if the cause
is removed early the animal will not acquire the vice. Some
stables are so arranged that by pawing, the animal can make grain
fall into the feed box. It may be cured by removing the cause. If
this habit has been formed, the forelegs should be hobbled, thus
enabling neighboring animals and men sleeping near to get some
rest.
Windsucking and cribbing (which is windsucking combined with
seizing the manger, fence, or other suitable object with the teeth)
may be prevented by buckling a strap around the throat snug but
not tight.
A kicker may be one of several kinds — those who kick because
very ticklish or who are quick to defend themselves when fright-
ened or when approached by a man or animal known to be an
enemy, or when desirous of ridding themselves of strange or painful
equipment. The way to prevent kicking of the first three sorts is to
speak kindly to the animal upon approaching it and handle care-
f u lly un til it appreciates that no harm will come to it. Can anyone
16 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDLING ANIMALS.
blame a mule for looking out of the corner of his eye for a chance to
give a good kick to a man engaged in scraping his hide off, especially
about the joints, with a currycomb, or to pay back a man who has
given him an unnecessary kick or blow? If you get such an animal,
remember, if he has the habit, that at first he doesn ' t know you from
a man or men who mistreated him and it will take time to demon-
strate your own kindly intentions — hence, be patient.
If he persists in kicking when approached from the rear, he may
be hobbled, front fetlock to hind fetlock, until shown that trying
is useless. Tie a bag of straw up so it will hang against his hocks.
Put a pole up or hold pole against his legs and rump to let him see
that kicking does no good and that the pole, if let alone, does him
no harm. If he kicks with both heels when placed in the wagon or
when turned out with other animals, tie a cord about the size of a
clothesline, fairly tight, around his girth just in rear of the back-
band; usually he will not offer to kick more than twice.
Biting is a vice caused, as usual with such failings, by faulty
handling. Most times animals b ite as a result of some one's having
teased them when young. In such cases they expect and usually
do see a jump on the part of the victim, and they like it. Horses
enjoy play — a jolce — better than some men. If a person stands
still or pays no attention, taking just enough action to prevent any
injury, such as placing the hand on the nose, the disappointment
will oftentimes be such as to cause them to give up the habit, for
it will no longer be any fun. About the best thing that can be done
to a confirmed biter is to muzzle the animal. If the habit is just
forming, some cases may be cured by a short but sharp cut over the
nose with a switch at the very moment the animal is giving the bite.
Kindness, however, is the best remedy — frequent rubbing of the
head and neck.
Some animals will break the halter shank by pulling back.
This habit is due to careless handling of the head, especially about
the ears, while grooming or when putting on the bridle. When
once the animal knows it can break loose, there are many occasions
when he finds this ability very convenient — for example, when tied
to a hot picket line and he is surrounded by a green meadow with
plenty of shade and running water. The habit must be cured , first,
by gentle treatment, which should be especially pursued until he
is perfectly willing and glad to be rubbed about the head. Then,
to teach him to associate pain with pulling back, double a rope (the
lariat will do, but it is slightly too large for best effect), carry one
end on each side of the back, place the bight along the back, give
it half a twist, and put the bight under the tail like a crupper.
Carry the ends forward, one along each shoulder, and tie the ends
together evenly to a post or manger and short enough so that in
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDLING ANIMALS. 17
pulling back the strain will come on this rope before it does on the
halter shank.
A balky horse is a proof of some man's ignorance. Some balky
horses are incurable, but if they are, it is man who is to blame. It
is very desirable that the horse should see what is going on and
an" "open" bridle (one without blinds) should be used, at least
until he sees what it is that is touching him, handling him, rattling
about, and making such unusual noises. If patience is exercised
in the beginning, much time, labor, and good horseflesh will be
saved. First put on and take off the harness. The crupper and
the breeching are the two parts which the green horse can not
understand. They should be handled considerably, moved about,
pulled so as to bring pressure on the usually untouched parts of
the body. The lines should be held from behind and permitted
to drop down on the legs. Move a large pole about his legs and
sides and rump. Then walk him about (leading) in the harness.
Then drive with the harness on, the lines being kept low (passed
through the shaft tugs or the tug loops at the side of the backhand
or saddle), so as to give a sidewise pull and thus draw the head in
the direction in which it is desired that he go. It is well to tie
some small poles onto the shaft tugs (backhand) and the breeching
and let them dangle as he walks. Be sure and put them on securely,
especially at the breeching, so the stick will not slip down or
up when he kicks. While being driven with the harness on,
there should be an assistant alongside near the head to guide him
by pressure of the hand on the side of the head or neck and thus
explain what is meant when the lines are pulled. Then the green
horse should be hitched, in harness only, alongside a trained and
quiet animal and driven about, considerable attention being paid
to turning to the right and left. Particular care should be taken
when working a green horse in a double team not to place him
always on the same side. He should be changed frequently from
the near (left) side to the off (right) side. The alternating of sides
should continue until the animal is well "broken."
When he understands what to do when driven alongside the
trained horse, the team should be hitched to a light wagon. An
assistant should be alongside to quiet the green horse. If the
driver sees that the horse intends to stop, it is very wise to say
"Whoa!" before he has a chance to stop.
If a trained horse be not available for the use as above outlined,
the green horse must be driven alone, and an assistant should be
constantly alongside the animal. If available, a light breaking
cart with long heavy shafts should be used for the first hitching.
It is well to use a kicking strap, a strap about 2 inches wide, which
is made fast to one of the shafts and carried over the horse's hips
76881°— 15 2
18 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDLING ANIMALS.
on top of or near the hip straps and made fast to the other shaft.
The nearer the kicking strap is to the crupper, the more leverage
the horse has to work against in kicking up. The whip should
not be used in teaching a green horse except possibly to touch him
very lightly, not so as to hurt but only to help the horse to know,
which direction it is supposed to move. Few, if any, horses or
mules have ever been taught anything by severe use of a whip.
Its use will certainly not cure the average balky horse.
The secret of curing a balky horse is to divert his attention.
This may be accomplished in several ways. If hitched double and
the horse props, the rope crupper referred to above as a cure for
pulling back may be used, the ends being made fast to the wagon
tongue. When the trained horse starts and moves the wagon for-
ward, the rope crupper is thus brought into action. If, being
driven single, he props, the rope crupper may be pulled by the
assistant standing in front. A smooth rock placed in the ear, of
size not too small, but just so it will go in easily, will sometimes
make the victim think more of this than of his other troubles. A
string tied around the ear will sometimes do the same thing.
Sometimes a balker can be cured by making him dizzy. Unhitch
him (but do not take harness off) and tie his head (bending the neck
around) to the tail — as close as possible. Then make him move
around and around — he must follow his tail — until he gets dizzy.
Hitch him up quickly and the chances are he will go.
Sometimes an animal will plant his feet deliberately and will
withstand any amount of swaying in any and all directions, but he
makes up his mind to "stay put." If he props backward, he can
sometimes be caught leaning hard backwards and forced back sud-
denly, thus getting the best of him, which he will appreciate.
Sometimes he can be moved by picking up his feet one at a time; or
light taps of the whip (not a kick) will4 make him pick up his feet.
Occasionally an offer of some food (sugar is very good) or water will
get him out of a stubborn state. The smell of the "warts," some-
times called, on the inside of the legs (just above the knees on the
front legs and below the hocks behind) seems to be peculiarly
agreeable to the horse; some of the softer portion rubbed on the
glove and held to the horse's nose will make him friendly disposed.
Oil of cumin has the same effect.
Rearing is another manifestation of gross mishandling on the part
of some man. It is due almost invariably to the use of too severe
a bit, or too severe use of a proper bit, or the use of a proper bit
improperly adjusted in the mouth. A snaffle bit is the only one
which should ever be used on a green horse, and on every horse
which can be controlled with it. In our mounted service this
rule is not adhered to because a bit for general use is required,
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDLING ANIMALS. 19
and a mild curb is adopted. Jerking, especially on a curb bit,
will cause the horse to yield suddenly to that pressure, conse-
quently he will go up in the air. Not only jerking but continued
pulling on a severe bit will cause him to seek the same sort of relief
and he soon appreciates that he always can get it by that method,
and he naturally forms the bad habit of rearing. A change of bit
will sometimes effect a cure. A leather or rubber bit or leather-
covered bit will often relieve the case. Occasionally the teeth are
in bad condition, and the mouth generally sore and feverish; if so,
this condition should be relieved. A martingale which is drawn
quite short will often cure mild cases; it is better to use the type
which runs directly from the girth to the bit or the nose band
instead of the kind which has rings through which the reins are run.
To make a check rein: Pass a rope (about the size of the little
finger) through the swivel on the right (throat) of bridle (if the
bridle is not provided with swivels for check reins, fasten a ring at
each end of a strap or rope about 8 inches long, then fasten the
middle point of this rope or strap to the crownpiece at top of the
head), then down through the right ring of the bit (it should be
straight and additional to the one to which the lines or reins are
fastened), then over the nose and through the other ring of the bit
and up through the swivel (or ring) on the left throat of the bridle
and make this (running) end fast to the other part of the rope about
the withers. In case the horse is being driven in harness, the two
parts of the rope should pass through the terrets (loops in the saddle
or backhand), and the short or running end made fast to the bight
of the part of the longer end at a point just in rear of the saddle or
backhand; the longer end is then carried to the rear and held in
the hand of the driver, ready for instant use. To keep the part over
the nose from falling down, a strong cord should be tied from it to
the brow band on the forehead.
If, when a runaway starts to run, the lines and this check rein
are pulled at the same time, he will be quickly stopped. A kicker
can often be cured if, just as he is kicking, he is given a good strong
haul on this check; the point is — do it quickly.
Sometimes a horse will kick so quickly and so often that the driver
will have his hand full managing the lines. In this case the check
can be rigged so as to always be ready for work. To do this, fasten
a ring on the back strap (running from the crupper to the saddle
or backhand) at the top of the rump, and instead of fastening the
running end to the bight of the longer or " stand Ing" end, both
ends are passed through this ring, and both ends tied to the shafts-
one on each side — or to the crossbar; or, if hitched double, to the
axle or other rigid part in rear.
20 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDLING ANIMALS.
GROOMING.
It seems hardly credible, but it is stated by authorities that the
skin excretes as much waste matter as do the bowels; hence, the
necessity for regular and thorough grooming to keep the skin open
and healthy.
The currycomb's, principal service is to clean the brush by
drawing the brush across it every few strokes.
The brush must be used with force (except about the head), put-
ting the weight of the body into the stroke; this makes the work
much easier and gives grooming very much the effect of a delightful
massage, which the animal soon learns to appreciate, and for which
he learns to like the giver.
1 ii grooming, remember that the currycomb is a severe instrument
when applied to bony or sharp points. Animals with tender skin
(they are usually the most intelligent) can be easily ruined by
carelessness or roughness in grooming, while if the spirit of the old
adage "Scratch me and I'll scratch you" is duly appreciated by
the man as well as it is by the animals, friendship is sure to result
from the frequent and careful wielding of the soothing currycomb
and brush.
Begin to groom where you naturally pat or caress the animal —
on his neck on the near (left) side, then gradually work to the tail
and legs. Don't forget to groom the folds and cracks — between and
just in rear of the forelegs, and in the flanks — but remember that
these points are as ticklish as they are important. Go to the head
last; use the brush or a cloth only, and these very carefully —
especially about the ears. Many a horse and mule is ruined by
rough handling of his head. Clean out the feet with a blunt-
pointed instrument and examine them carefully; this is the most
important part of the grooming; brush thoroughly the skin just
above the rear part of the hoof. Brush the mane (especially near
the roots), the foretop, and the tail thoroughly, but never touch
them with a currycomb. Don't groom when the animal is wet or
damp — it only mats the hair— but dry by rubbing lightly with a
cloth or a wisp of hay or straw and, when dry, groom as usual.
Remember that the feet, stomach, and the shoulders of a draft
animal or the back of a riding animal are the three most essential
points.
A wisp of straw is not ordinarily used in our service, though no
implement will contribute more, if as much, toward keeping the
coat in a smooth and healthy condition. It is made by twisting
hay or straw into a rope, about 6 feet long, and making of this an
oblong, compact mat by forming two loops at the middle and
weaving the ends through the four parts of the loops.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDLING ANIMALS. 21
FEEDING.
Transportation facilities for an army will vary greatly due to the
difference in nature of the theater of operations, character of the
enemy, resources of the country, and rates of the march required.
Against a first-class power, large bodies of troops would be assembled
and maneuvered; in campaigns, such as those in the Philippines,
the soldier carried on his back everything required except occa-
sionally when "cargadors" (natives who packed loads on their
backs) were procured to carry rations. In mountainous countries,
or in very wet weather and on earth roads, pack mules or pack
horses (the larger foot makes considerable difference sometimes)
might be the only practicable means of transport. On winding
roads two- wheeled carts are suitable. On earth roads in fairly
good or good condition escort wagons, and on metaled roads the
automobile truck could be used.
When the weight of forage (23 pounds for the mule and 26 pounds
for the horse) and the round trip are considered, we see that a pack
mule (net carrying capacity 250 pounds) could only go five days
to the front of his base of supply; if he goes two days to the front he
can carry 150 pounds in addition to his own forage.
The capacity of the escort wagon is 2,765 pounds with field trains
and 2,465 pounds with the combat trains. This is the equivalent
(for a wagon in the field train) of either 230 horse or 300 mule rations
of grain, or 175 horse or mule rations of hay, or 565 garrison rations,
or 675 travel rations, or 920 field rations, or 1,380 reserve rations. In
other words, a wagon could go about 12 days to the front living
on the forage in the wagon load; if a trip requiring 3 days' travel
to the front of the base of supply were contemplated, it could carry
to that point about 1 ton.
When it is seen how great a part of the load is taken up with
forage for the animals, the importance of ''living off the country, "
grazing where possible, and of securing grain at the various stops
may be appreciated. Moreover, it will be impossible to always
get oats and hay, and the necessity of teaching the animals to eat
different kinds of food is apparent. The bulk as well as most weight
of the forage ration is the hay; therefoie grain only is carried in
campaign. For each animal there is carried along with the animal
normally two days' grain ration and a " reserve grain ration, " which
makes a total of three days. The reserve ration is not to be touched
except "in case of extreme necessity, when no other supplies are
available," and not without an express order from the commander.
Great care should be exercised to see that the grain, hay, and
straw are of good quality and are sound. If it is impossible to
22 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDLING ANIMALS.
secure good quality, every step should be taken to make it as pala-
table and as wholesome as practicable. There will probably be
many times when, due to the exigencies of the service in campaign,
many varieties and grades of food must be used. Horses can eat
most any kind of food and will do so if they are properly coaxed ;
they will readily learn to eat carrots, bread, etc., and have been
known to eat meat even. Musty hay or other grain can be made
much more edible by shaking, sieving, sprinkling just before feed-
ing, mixing with other foodstuff such as molasses or cane, green
corn or other vegetables, or adding a little salt.
When carrots or similarly shaped vegetables are fed they should
be cut lengthwise; if cut round, the pieces may become lodged in
the throat.
Good bran contains large flakes and considerable proportion of
flour; the hand thrust into bran should when withdrawn appear
well powdered.
Dry bran will constipate while a bran mash (made by stirring
into boiling water and then covering with a layer of dry for 15
minutes) is laxative.
It is generally impracticable — if on the march — to feed hay in
the morning; most of it is given at night — about two- thirds — and
one- third at noon or after the march for the day is over.
Grass should be given at every opportunity ; it keeps the bowels
in good condition.
The ration of forage is for the horse 12 pounds of oats (or bran),
and 14 pounds of hay, and for the mule 9 pounds and 14 pounds,
respectively. Bran when necessary (usually once a week) is made
into a "mash"; it must be fed when freshly mixed; if more of a
purgative effect is desired a tablespoonful of common salt should
be added. Grain only (3 days) is carried in the field; hay or grass
is secured locally. Barley should always be fed crushed and pre-
ferably wet.
An animal is just as much entitled to good forage as a man is to
good food. Good oats are plump, have the beard on the grain.
The kernel can be seen through the split in the hull. The grains
will not break under pressure of the nail. They smell and taste
sweet. Weight should not be under 36 pounds per bushel, although
we accept 32-pound oats. If a handful of good oats be taken in the
hand, it will oe impossible to compress them much by hand pres-
sure. Good hay has the leaves and top on the stem, has a fresh
appearance, and smells and tastes sweet. Corn is sometimes fed
but it produces more fat than working tissues; it is best to feed
it ground or cracked. One hundred pounds of straw per month
is allowed each animal for bedding; it is not allowed in the field.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDLING ANIMALS. 23
WATERING.
There is some difference of opinion as to whether it is best to
water before or after feeding; it is generally thought best to water
before, if practicable. Of course, if it is cold weather and the
water is cold the animal will not drink anyway early in the morn-
ing, or if at all he will do so very slowly. Man can best appreciate
how a horse feels under such circumstances by trying to drink
down ice water in a hurry. If not watered before feeding it is best
not to water until a couple of hours afterwards; however, unless
sure that water will be procurable after this length of time, water
them sooner.
An animal can not be given too much water — except, of course,
when he is hot — for he will not drink any more than is good for him.
Water should be given at least three times per day ; in hot weather,
as often as practicable. A horse will drink almost a barrel of water
in tropical countries, for he loses so much by sweating.
Water from a bucket or from a running stream — never frcm a
trough, unless specific authority has been given. Take care that
the oil from the lantern which is carried in the bucket does not
spill into it. Horses will not drink tainted water. Some horses
are very particular about food and water. They should be hu-
mored, for generally such traits indicate a superior type of animal.
When going to the watering place, go very slowly. If you are
ever going to humor a horse, do it when going to water. No jerk-
ing, crowding, or fighting is permissible.
For a half hour after watering or after feeding, an animal should
not be required to take up a gait faster than a walk.
Remember that a horse is entitled to as good water as is the man.
He is not affected by certain of the germs which attack man but,
on the other hand, there are many germs which are the horse's
enemies and which do not attack man. The only difference is
that the horse can not talk while the man can and does not usually
lose any opportunity to growl at any slight discomfort.
The usual allowance of water for the horse is 5 gallons if not
working and 10 gallons if at labor. In hot weather 20 or even 30
gallons will be needed.
The rule as to not watering when animals are warm should not
be understood to apply if they are to be kept moving for a half
hour or more after they drink. But never water a warm animal
and then let him stand, for it will cause founder.
24 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDLING ANIMALS.
SHELTER.
Shelter should be given the horse if possible, but only to protect
him from the hot sun, rain, snow, and strong wind. When very
cold use the blanket.
If a horse is very hot and sweating and the weather is cool, put
a good thick layer of straw or hay under the blanket. In campaign
about all the shelter that can be given is that to be obtained from
the blanket, and by placing the animals in a dry place and as pro-
tected from the wind as possible. Windbreaks made of brush or
other materials found lying around the vicinity will often be of
great help toward enabling animals to pass a comfortable night.
Always stop or tie your horse in the shade if hot, or under the pro-
tection of a building if cold.
In camps when it is very hot it is very desirable — and if troops
remain for any length of time it is almost imperative — that some
sort of shelter be improvised against the hot rays of the sun. It
does not require a great amount of labor to construct an open shed
in which the posts are trees having forks about 14 to 16 feet from
the ground (sunk into the ground about 3 feet) and the rafters and
covering consist of the branches of the trees and grass, hay, or brush.
If hay or grass be available, the covering can be made waterproof
also.
Horses will sleep and receive considerable rest while standing
up, but they will generally lie down if given suitable surroundings.
Manure should be burned or otherwise treated so as to prevent
breeding of flies. The Department of Agriculture recommends
sprinkling borax on the manure and then sprinkling with water;
this sterilizes the eggs. Lime, iron sulphate, and potassium cya-
nide will also sterilize fly eggs, but the two last-mentioned chemicals
are very costly and the last-named very poisonous. It is estimated
that, using borax, the cost of treating the manure — where borax
is bought in 100-pound lots or more — is about 1 cent per horse per
day.
If fly nets be not available, some protection against flies may be
given the animals by tying branches of trees or weeds on the harness
so as to cover the shoulders and the sides and on the throatlatch to
protect the throat. Stock will stamp and switch a great many
pounds off fighting flies, so save feed and prevent suffering by the
slight attention mentioned.
Flies will not attack a horse which has been rubbed with a cloth
moistened with fish oil, or a decoction of tobacco, walnut or elder
leaves, or carbolized water.
CHAPTER II.
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
Farrier's chevron.
GENERAL REMARKS.
Look after your horses, first, last, and all times. Treat them with
kindness; it will not only be humane, but will make your work
easy. Do not allow any man in your detachment to mistreat an
animal ; see that his punishment is more severe than that he gave
the animal.
Look after your horses' shoes.
After horses reach quarters or camp look carefully over each one
and do the same before they leave.
When a horse is reported sick, attend to him at once, no matter
if it rains or shines, if it is day or night. If two or more horses
are sick with the same symptoms, call the veterinarian. If a horse
dies suddenly with no apparent cause, call the veterinarian.
Whenever a new horse comes to the detachment, examine his
nose for sores and ulcerations, for discharge from one of both nostrils,
for swellings of the glands on under part of the lower jaw. If any
of these symptoms are found, keep animal isolated until it can be
examined by a veterinarian. These symptoms indicate glanders,
a fatal disease, communicable to man as well as to animals. If
any animal in the detachment shows such symptoms, isolate it at
once. Do not permit saddles, harness, or tools used for the sick
horses to be used for sound animals.
Temperature. — The normal temperature of horse, taken by ther-
mometer in the rectum for three or four minutes, is 99° to 100° F.
A permanent rise of 2° or 3° indicates fever.
A persistence of high evening temperature lasting into morning
shows an aggravation of the condition.
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
PLATE III.— Diseases of the horse.
1 , Caries of the lower jaw
2, Fistula of the parotid
duct.
3, Bony excrescence or ex-
ostosis of the lower
jaw.
4, Swelling by pressure of
the bridle.
5, Poll evil.
(i, Inflamed parotid gland.
7, Inflamed jugular vein.
8, Fungus tumor, pro-
duced by pressure of
the collar.
9, Fistula in the withers.
10, Saddle gall.
11, Tumor of the elbow.
12, Induration of the knee.
13, Clap of the back sin-
ews.
14, Malanders.
15, Splint.
16, Ringbone.
17, A tread upon the cor-
onet.
18, Quittor.
19, Sand crack.
20, Contracted or ring foot
of a foundered horse.
Capped hook.
Malanders.
Spavin.
Curb.
Swelled sinews.
Thick leg.
Grease.
A crack in front of
the foot, called cow
crack.
Quarter crack.
Ventral hernia.
Rat-tail-
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER. 27
A persistence of low morning temperature lasting into the even-
ing indicates improvement.
Pulse. — This is felt on lower jaw or inside forelimb inside the
elbow joint. In the horse it should be 36 to 49 per minute. In
old age it is less frequent. Young and nervous animals and fe-
males have a greater rapidity of the pulse.
Breathing. — The young horse breathes 10 to 12 times per minute,
the adult animal 9 to 10. Any excitement accelerates. Exercise,
even walking few hundred yards, increases the respirations to 25
or 28 per minute; after trotting five minutes, to 52; after galloping
five minutes, to 62.
Hurried breathing not caused by exercise, nor heat of atmos-
phere or not accompanied by distension of the abdomen, is indica-
tion of fever, especially if associated with rapid pulse and increased
heat of the body.
The well horse has a smooth coat (inculding the hair at the root
of the tail), skin pliable and easily rolled on the flesh, clear, bright,
open eyes, salmon-pink colored membranes in the nostril, light-
yellow colored urine, erect ears; he holds his neck at an angle
considerably above the horizontal, stands on four feet squarely,
plants his feet in regular cadence in walking or trotting, and has
no unusual discharges from any part of the body. He has a good
appetite — this being probably the best means of telling his state
of health.
The remarks as to carriage do not apply to a horse at rest when
sleeping or when drowsing, for then the neck is naturally droopeji
and oftentimes the animal rests his hind quarters by standing on
one leg or stands on one foreleg and one diagonal hind leg, allow-
ing the others to bend and thus relax the muscles. However,
if an animal stands always on one of the legs (front or hind) and
rests the other, a weakness may be the cause. It is almost invari-
ably so if he does not stand evenly on both front legs.
An unusual discharge from any part of the body, distended and
red nostrils, drooping eyes or ears or neck, shifting about on the
feet, refusal to stand on one foot, especially if he "points" the toe
(that is, holds it out to the front, resting lightly on the ground), an
unsteady or irregular gait, cracked hoofs, sores or irritation of the
quarters (just above the rear part of the hoof), or lack of appetite
indicate a diseased condition.
In treating animals it should be borne in mind that few medicines
of themselves do the curing. Nature does it. Man helps by
giving food which is easily digested, by giving extra care to the
sick, and by guarding, as it were, against the attack of any enemies
in the shape of germs which are ready to seize the weak or
wounded.
28 DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
A general rule as to the symptom of a discharge from the nose:
Little fear need be entertained if the discharge runs freely from
the nose (that is if it is not sticky), or if it is stringy and will not
mix (break up) with water; these symptoms indicate a cold. If,
on the other hand, the discharge is creamy, sticky, and it will
break up into fine particles, and hence will mix with water, the
symptoms indicate a serious condition, and prompt steps should be
taken to isolate the animal and to get expert veterinary attention.
RESTRAINT OF ANIMALS.
It will be necessary in some cases to restrain the animal while it
is being treated, but it will be remembered that by a kind handling
the animal will not be so refractory as when treated in a rough
manner.
Beating, kicking, jerking should be absolutely avoided. It does
not quiet the animal, but does frighten him and serves to demon-
strate the lack of sense in the man doing it.
There are three principal methods of restraint, viz, hobbling,
putting on a twitch, and throwing.
Hobbling is the least severe, consisting of simply raising one of
the forefeet almost to the elbow and tying or strapping the leg in
the bent position. A loop is passed around the leg at the pastern
(just above the hoof), and with the leg in the bent position the ends
of the strap or rope passed around the forearm and made fast.
If rope is used, the skin should be protected by several layers of
( •!< »i li , such as pieces of oat sack. If a strap be used, it should have
a keeper at the back near the buckle, or a keeper be improvised
by a small rope or several strands of a strong cord.
To prevent kicking or to make the animal stand for very short
periocfs only, an assistant may be directed to hold up the foreleg
opposite the side on which the animal is being treated. If he
attemps to go down on that leg, follow him down still holding the
foot and leg in the same relative position; don't try to resist, for
if you do you give him that which you took away from him —
a point of support for his leg — and he can lunge.
The twitch is made of a strong stick !£ feet long, 1§ inches diame-
ter. Near one end two holes about 3 inches apart are made to
pass a i-inch (diameter) rope. A loop about large enough to hold
the closed fist is made in the rope by passing the ends through
these holes and tying knots in the ends; or any method may be
used by which a loop about the size of the fist can be fastened
near the enol of the stick.
The hand is passed through the loop and the upper lip is gathered
in the hand and the loop is passed over the hand and onto the lip.
The stick is given several turns so that the rope twists, thereby
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER, 29
exerting a pressure on the sensitive upper lip, and this will or-
dinarily make the animal quiet. The twitch should not be twisted
too severely.
To throw an animal (which should be rarely necessary), hobble,
as before explained, the foreleg on the side on which you wish
him to lie when down.
The casting harness, Plate IV, figure 1, should be used if avail-
able. Wrap the pasterns of the rear legs (between the fetlock
ankle and the hoof) very carefully with cloth to prevent rope
burn. If casting hame be not available, double the lariat and tie
a knot near the middle so as to form a loop large enough to fit like
a collar over the horse's shoulders. The loop is passed over the
head and onto the shoulders like a collar, the knot being so adjusted
that it will come on the horse's breast. Pass the two ends between
the forelegs under the belly and then between the hind legs.
Then pass the ends one under the right and one under the left
hind ankle, previously wrapped, and then along the side and up
through the loop around the horse's neck. There is an assistant
on each end, one on each side; another assistant holds the head
and stands on the side on which the animal is intended to lie.
The reins are off the neck and passed to the shoulder opposite the
side on which the animal is to lie, and are grasped by the thrower
(the man handling the reins) with the hand farthest from the head ;
the other hand grasps the ear on the opposite side.
The head is drawn to the side by the reins and the command
"pull" is given. At this signal the two assistants at the sides
pull forward on the ends of the lariat, thus drawing the hind feet
forward; the head is drawn further back toward the girth and the
animal settles down on its side. The thrower quickly places his
knee on the neck near the head, and raises the muzzle of the horse
from the ground. The assistants at the sides carry the ends of
the rope to the hind legs and make fast near the hoofs — where the
cloth has been previously placed. The horse thus fettered can
not get up nor struggle effectively as long as, a man has his knee
on the animal's neck and holds its nose off the ground.
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
In order to intelligently handle medicines and other supplies
used in caring for animals a familiarity with tables of weights and
measures is necessary.
It will sometimes be necessary to improvise measures. A bal-
ance is easily constructed by placing containers of some sort, one
on each end of a stick, balance on a sharp edge, and mark the
point of balance.
30 DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
METRIC SYSTEM.
The metric system of weights and measures is used in many
foreign countries. It is based on the decimal system. There are
three units; of length, the meter (m); of weight, the gram (g); of
capacity, the liter Tl). There is also a unit of surface based on the
meter, one "are" being a square 10 meters on a side. The sub-
divisions or the multiples of these units are indicated by prefixes,
as follows:
PARTS.
Deci equals -j^. as decimeter (^ of a meter).
Centi equals y^, as centiliter (T^ of a liter).
Milli equals j^Vv? as milligram (yoVo of a gram).
MULTIPLES.
Deka equals 10 times, as dekaliter (10 liters).
Hecto equals 100 times, as hectometer (100 meters).
Kilo equals 1,000 times, as kilogram (1,000 grams).
The meter (39.37 inches) is40,ooVooo °f the circumference of the
earth; the grain (15.43 grains) is the weight of 1 cubic centimeter
(that is, of a cube whose edge is y^ of a meter in length), of water
at its maximum density; the liter (1.06 quarts) is 1 cubic deci-
meter (that is, a cube wnose edge is ^ of a meter in length).
The Quantities usually used in business where the metric system
is established are as follows:
Meter, 39.37 inches; a centimeter is £ of an inch; kilometer,
f mile (0.62137).
Hectare, 2.471 acres; or 1 acre ^ of a hectare.
Liter, 0.9081 quart (dry) or 1.1 quarts (liquid).
Kilogram 1 2. 2046 pounds (avoirdupois).
Metric ton, 2,204.6 pounds.
One liter of water weighs 1 kilo.
The following are weights per bushel of various foods for animals:
Wheat, 60 pounds.
Corn, in ear, 70 pounds.
Corn, shelled, 56 pounds.
Rye, 56 pounds.
Barley, 48 pounds.
Bran, 20 pounds.
Corn meal, 48 pounds.
Salt (fine), about 60 pounds.
Oats, 36 pounds (32 pounds is accepted).
i Usually called kilo (kee-lo).
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER. 31
Contents of various containers:
Bucket, G. I. (level), 12 pounds oats.
Bucket, G. I. (level), 16 pounds cracked corn.
Bucket, G.I. (level), 7 pounds bran.
A flake of baled hay weighs about 13 pounds.
APOTHECARIES FLUID MEASURE.
60 minims or drops (m) equal 1 dram (f3) (1 teaspoonful).
8 drams equal 1 ounce (f§) (2 tablespoonfuls).
16 ounces equal 1 pint (0).
2 pints equal 1 quart.
4 quarts equal 1 gallon.
A drop (Gtt.) is a minim.
1 teaspoonful is a fluid dram (1 drop of water weighs almost
1 grain).
1 tablespoon is 4 teaspoonfuls, or one-half a fluid ounce.
1 pint is about a pound (avoirdupois).
16 drops are approximately 1 cubic centimeter (c. c.)..
The issue (Ordnance Department) spoonful (scant) is a table-
spoonful containing therefore about 250 grains, or 15 cubic centi-
me tersljc. c.).
The issue cup models of 1904 (old tin cup) contains 60 table-
spoons or nine-tenths of 1 quart; 1908 and model of 1910 (aluminum
with handle) holds 50 tablespoonfuls or 24 ounces.
APOTHECARIES WEIGHT.
20 grains (gr) equal 1 scruple (3).
3 scruples equal ]. dram ( 5 ) .
8 drams equal 1 ounce (5).
12 ounces equal 1 pound (lb.).
IMPROVISED WEIGHTS.
One drop of water weighs about 1 grain.
A silver (United States) dollar (new) weighs about 1J ounces
apothecaries and 1^ ounces avoirdupois.
A nickel (United States 5-cent piece) weighs about 1J drams
apothecaries^.
Ten pennies (United States 1-cent pieces) weigh (new) exactly
1 ounce apothecaries.
One gram is equivalent to 15.22 grains (the weight of a cubic
centimeter of water).
32 DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
One pound apothecaries is 5,760 grains. One pound avoirdupois
(scales used in stores for weighing provisions, grain, etc.) weighs
7,000 grains. The ' 'grain " is the same in all weights — apothecaries,
troy, and avoirdupois.
ABBREVIATIONS USED IN MEDICINE.
1^ means "take."
ss means "half," as § ss means "half ounce."
i means "one," as 5 i means "1 dram" or 5 iss "1J ounces."
ij means "two," as £)ij means " 2 scruples."
"Ad" means "add to"; "Ad lib." means "at pleasure."
"Aq." means "water;" "D." means "dose;" " Dil."
means "dilute."
"Ess" means "essence;" "Filt" means "filter;" "Lot."
means "wash."
"M" means "mix"; "Mac" means "macerate" (to steep).
"Pulv." means "powder;" "Pil." means "Pill;" "Solv."
means "dissolve."
"St." means "let stand;" "Sum" means "to be taken."
8 quarts=l peck.
4 pecks =1 bushel.
1 bushel contains 2,150.4 cubic inches.
LIQUID MEASURE.
4 gills=l pint.
2 pints=l quart.
4 quarts=l gallon.
1 gallon contains 231 cubic inches.
12 inches=l foot.
3 feet=l yard.
5J yards=l rod.
1,760 yards =1 mile.
1 meter=39.37 inches.
1 kilometer=0.62 (about f ) mile.
A penny (United States 1-cent piece) is f inch in diameter.
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER. 33
DISINFECTANTS.
Heat is the best disinfectant. Boiling for not under 15 minutes
serves very well. Soap and water and then sunlight are, next to
heat, probably the best germ killers in most practical instances.
In especially malignant diseases, such as glanders and rinderpest,
where thorough disinfection is imperative, total destruction by
fire is the best method. Oil sprinkled on ground and burned is
very good.
Chemical disinfectants are effective if they reach the microbes.
Disinfecting vapors are, next to heat, most effective. ^ Sulphur
placed in a shovel or other metal container and burned in an in-
fected building or room which has been thoroughly sealed will
generate fumes which will thoroughly disinfect in 24 hours. One
pound of sulphur is required per 1,000 cubic feet. Liquids come
next in efficacy. Creolin (Pearson) 1 part, water 25 parts; carbolic
acid 1 part, water 20 parts; corrosive sublimate (mercury chloride)
1 part, water 1,000 parts, are good. Never ^use a sponge in cleaning
wounds — always cotton; then burn or boil or otherwise disinfect
it. Whitewash or paint simply cover up objectionable matter.
When it is advisable, either from necessity or from dictates of
humanity, to dispose of an animal, the easiest method is by shooting
with either a rifle or a pistol. Care must be taken to see that no
person or animal is in rear of or within close distance of the animal,
for even after having passed through a portion of the animal's
body bullets occasionally still have considerable velocity. The
barrel of the weapon should be held at right angles to and the
muzzle not over 2 inches from the center of the forehead, aimed
at a point above the eyes about half an inch below the lowest
hairs of the foretop.
EQUIPMENT FOR THE FARRIER.
General Orders, No. 115, War Department, 1911, gives a list of
veterinary medicines and equipment and allowances for organiza-
tions of the Regular Army which have public animals. The total
weight of such supplies to be transported in field or store wagons,
or on store pack mules, will not exceed a quantity based on a rate
of 18 pounds, including containers and cases, per 100 animals.
These supplies will be transported in combat trains in all cases
where organizations have store wagons or store pack mules, and in
field wagons for other organizations. In mounted organizations
the work of the farrier is performed under the supervision of the
veterinarians; therefore the following information regarding the
veterinarian's equipment is given.
76881°— 15 3
34 DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
Each veterinarian is supplied with a veterinarian's field equip-
ment weighing about 150 pounds, which consists of a set of "Veter-
inarian's field chests," veterinarian's saddlebags and their con-
tents. (See PL IV, p. 35.)
Veterinarian's field chests. — Each set consists of 5 chests. Of
the two large chests, one is supplied with 10 empty bottles, 14 or
16 ounces, height not to exceed 7£ inches; the other containing
18 empty round jars with screw tops, 3f inches high by 2£ inches
in diameter. These two chests with the other three chests (to be
supplied empty) contain the veterinarian's field supplies.
Instruments and appliances for field chests —
Figure 1. 1 casting harness.
Figure 2. 1 catheter.
Figure 3. 1 clipper, hand.
Figure 4. 1 drenching bottle, rubber.
Figure 5. 1 flat, tooth, straight and angular.
Figure 6. 1 graduate glass.
Figure 7. 1 hoof-knife set, in roll.
Figure 8. 1 stomach tube, with stylet.
Figure 9. 1 syringe, metal, 2-ounce.
Figure 10. 1 tray, enameled, 10-inch.
A veterinarian's saddlebag should contain the following articles:
Figure 11. 1 hypodermic syringe and case; 1 tray, tin (to be
filled with sponge or gauze when packed).
Figure 12. 1 case, surgical, small, vest-pocket size, to contain the
following:
1 scalpel.
1 bistoury, probe pointed.
1 bistoury, sharp pointed.
1 tenacumm.
1 probe, silver, jointed, two sections.
1 director, grooved.
2 forceps, artery, with catch.
6 needles, suture, curved and half curved, assorted sizes.
1 scissors, curved or flat.
For organizations which have animals but which have no veter-
inarian, such as Infantry, Engineers, and Signal troops, a "Veter-
inary pannier" is supplied. (See PL V.) It weighs approxi-
mately 70 pounds.
The contents of a veterinary pannier are not prescribed in detail.
A pannier should be equipped with such supplies as are appro-
priate and necessary for any particular march or expedition. Pan-
niers supplied to organizations haying no veterinarians are for use
as containers of veterinary medicines and dressings. Panniers
may be supplied to Cavalry and Field Artillery regimental head-
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
35
36 DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
quarters and may also be equipped with instruments and appli-
ances selected from the veterinarian's field equipment; or one of
the veterinarian's field chests may be used for this purpose in lieu
of the pannier supplied regimental headquarters.
One authority has suggested the following list of veterinary
supplies. Under ordinary conditions it should suffice for 100 ani-
mals for 10 days:
Medicines —
3 aloes balls.
£ pound ammonia, aromatic spirits.
£ pound ammonia liniment.
J pound charcoal.
J pound chloronaphtholeum or kreso.
J pound colic mixture.
| pound cosmoline.
| pound iodine tincture.
J pound lime, chloride of.
3 ounces mercury, bichloride of.
J pound oil, linseed.
£ pound oil, olive.
£ pound ointment, antiseptic.
J pound tar, pine.
J pound three sulphates (copper, iron, and zinc).
Dressings —
J pound absorbent cotton.
1 package antiseptic gauze.
Banda£ee~-
1 flannel.
4 cotton, white.
1 pound oakum.
1 pound soap, Castile.
The above list might be amended by omitting the third, fourth,
ninth, tenth, eleventh, and fifteenth items, increasing quantity of
olive oil to 1 quart, changing fifth item to "1 pound of Creoline,
Pearson," adding 1 pound of turpentine, and increasing amount
of absorbent cotton to 1 pound.
In the Organized Militia when continuous service in the field is
expected the same equipment should be carried as by Regular
troops. In time of peace such an elaborate outfit is unnecessary;
the possession by each troop of the prescribed ' ' Farrier's field equip-
ment" (specified in General Orders, No. 115, War Department,
1911), and certain additional supplies, will meet the requirements.
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
37
PLATE V.— Interior of veterinary pannier; tray removed.
38 DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
FARRIER'S FIELD EQUIPMENT.
(See Pis. VI and VII, pp. 39 and 40.)
For the farrier an outfit much simpler than that for the veterina-
rian is prescribed. Eighteen pounds are allowed for the entire
equipment required by the farrier in the performance of his special
duties.
1 basin, granite, 1-quart.*
4 bottles, 1-pin tf —
1 for colic, drench.
1 for restorative in heat exhaustion and rise in temperature.
1 for antiseptic wash (creolin, Pearson).
1 with detachable rubber neck, for drenching bottle.
1 farrier's instrument pocket case.
1 graduate glass, 2-ounce.*
1 dose syringe, metal, 4-ounce.*
Additional equipment and supplies needed.
1 funnel, enamel, 1-quart.*
10 bandages, gauze, about 4 inches wide, and 5 yards long.f
10 bandages, cotton, same dimensions. t
5 pounds cotton, absorbent. f
10 days' supply of medicines. f (See table below.)
There is also issued to the farrier when he acts as horseshoer a
HORSESHOER'S EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT.
(See PI. VIII, p. 41.)
1 shoeing hammer.*
1 pincers.*
1 hoof knife.*
1 jointed horseshoe, No. 2.f
1 rasp.*
Horseshoe nails, f as required.
J-pound oakum. t
1 4-ounce bottle chlorolin or kreso.f
Articles marked f are expendable upon certificate of the account-
able officer that they were used in the public service.
Articles marked * are expendable on the certificates of the ac-
countable officer, approved by the commanding officer, that they
were worn out in the public service and have no salable value, and
the certificate of a disinterested officer that he witnessed the de-
struction. If they have any salable value, they must be submitted
to the action of an inspector (Bulletin No. 3, War Department, 1914).
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
40
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
41
fM
42 DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
FARRIER'S INSTRUMENT POCKET CASE (IN CANVAS ROLL).
• (See PI. VII, p. 40.)
Contents: Fig.
1 bistoury, curved, blunt 1
1 director 2
1 scissors, curved 3
1 forceps, artery 4
1 probe 5
1 clinical thermometer 6
1 scalpel 7
1 hoof knife 8
1 forceps, dressing 9
6 needles, curved.
1 silk, skein.
Uses—
(a) Bistoury, curved, blunt, for opening of abscesses; use scalpel,
making small opening at lowest point of abscess, and when
pus (matter) shows enlarge opening with probe-pointed
bistoury. Do not make opening larger than necessary to
give pus easy flow. Wash and disinfect before and after
opening and keep area clean.
(6) Curved scissors for clipping the hair off parts when knife is
to be used, and for trimming ragged edges off. Keep instrument
clean, use an antiseptic solution (noncorrosive), such as creolin and
water.
(c) Artery forceps, for picking up a cut artery for ligation. Arte-
rial bleeding is recognized by the blood coming in spurts corre-
sponding to the pulse. When the artery is picked up, tie silk
around it and remove forceps. Also used for removing foreign sub-
stance from wound.
(d) Needles, for sewing up fresh-cut wounds. Start sewing from
top of wound ; tie each stitch and do not close wound entirely at its
lowest point but leave outlet for pus that may form. Take stitches
out if suppuration is detected down in the wound (the wound has in
that case become infected before being dressed or not been properly
cleansed). If no suppuration occurs, remove stitches when wound
appears to have healed— 3 to 5 days. Few wounds will heal without
suppuration in a horse or mule unless dressed when wound is quite
fresh and absolutely clean.
(e) Suture silk, for sewing up wounds. It must be clean and be
well soaked in pure Creolin before used. After the wound is sewed
up, dust iodoform on it or apply a little vaseline.
•(/) Probe, used to find out if any foreign substance is in the
wound — for example the bullet in a shot wound.
(g) Tenaculum is used to pick up ends of arteries and tissues.
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER. 43
(h) Director: Little used, except as a probe. For deep cutting
(very rarely done) it is sometimes used as a guide for the bistoury
or scalpel.
Clinical thermometer: Insert in rectum for three or four min-
utes.
After using the thermometer the mercury should be shaken
down. Before using, it should be examined to see that it reg-
isters under 95°.
The farrier should always have with him —
1. Instrument pocket case.
2. Colic mixture — 5 doses (see "Medicine" below).
3. Antipyretic (antifever) mixture — 5 doses (see "Medi-
cine" below).
4. Antiseptic (Creolin), J pint (see "Medicine" below).
5. 1 dose syringe, 2 ounces.
6. Clinical thermometer.
7. Bandages, cotton (4).
8. Bandages, gauze (4).
9. Cotton, absorbent, 2 pounds.
10. 3 feet rubber tubing with funnel to fit, or drenching
bottle.
Conditions of service should determine what other articles of the
field equipment, if any, ought to be so carried. For example, in
very hot weather a bottle of heat-exhaustion restorative should be
taken; if horses are soft or have just had a change of diet, a pint of
colic drench might be useful; if the wagons do not closely follow
the column, some antiseptic wash might be carried. All articles
of the field equipment not carried by the farrier personally should
be packed in a box of convenient size, which should be left in the
field wagon.
Every mounted command liable to go into the field unaccom-
panied by a veterinarian should keep on hand 10 days' field-service
supply of such necessary and simple medicines as can be properly
prescribed and administered by the farrier. Such medicines, for
a command numbering about 70 horses and mules, would be about
as shown in the table below under "Medicines." The financial
allowance is 25 cents at home or 30 cents in tropical stations per
quarter per animal. In case the strength is materially above or
below 70, quantities should be varied accordingly.
MEDICINES.
Medicines are of assistance in healing, but their principal pur-
pose is to keep away outside interference, mostly microbes, from
the animal while nature does the healing. When necessary to give
medicine, this may be accomplished by (1) introducing it through
the mouth into the intestinal tract, (2) by inhalation (through the
nostrils or mouth and the lungs), (3) by absorption through the
44 DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
skin, (4) by injection under the skin, (5) by injection into and
absorption through the rectum.
Through the mouth medicine may be given in various ways, viz,
in the shape of powder either dry or dissolved in water and 'then
sprinkled on the food; an electuary made by mixing the medicine
with honey ^or sirup together with enough dope (some sort of food)
to make it into a puttylike mass, and this placed on the back of
the tongue with a paddle, or formed into a cylindrical form usually
called a "ball/1 about 2 inches long and three-fourths of an inch
in diameter, wrapped with tissue paper and placed on the back of
the tongue; a drench, made by adding the medicines to water or
some other liquid and pouring slowly from the mouth of a bottle
placed between the cheek and the elevated lower jaw; syringe,
the contents of which are squirted onto the back of the tongue (this
is the best method; see below).
Giving liquid medicines : Fill a syringe with the medicine. Face
the horse, take hold of its tongue with left hand (do not pull the
tongue out, but simply hold it); insert nozzle of syringe over
tongue and squirt the medicine in; turn loose tongue and with
left hand hold horse's head high until the sound of swallowing is
heard.
If a dose syringe be not available, " drenching" may be resorted
to, although as usually performed this method is most.y a waste of
medicine, the horse usually swallowing little. The liquid medi-
cine should be placed in a bottle, preferably one having no shoul-
ders. The muzzle of the horse is elevated until the lower jaw is
slightly aboVe horizontal; this may be done by hand with some
animals, but others require the head to be drawn up by a strap or
rope thrown over a limb of a tree or other elevated point of support;
ordinarily the shank attached to the halter may be used, but it is
better to use, in addition to the halter, a nonslipping loop placed
over the nose and in the mouth, so as to come against the roof of the
mouth in rear of front teeth. With head in the elevated position,
the month of the bottle is placed between the molars and the
incisors (back and front teeth) and the contents very slowly poured
onto the tongue. If the animal chokes, let his head down. Do
not strike or rub the throat or windpipe "to make him swallow. "
Inhalation is used usually to relieve a stoppage of the breathing
apparatus, such as occurs in case of a cold; it is given by causing
a vapor or steam to be breathed into the lungs. Several arrange-
ments can be made for accomplishing this; ingenuity will enable
any farrier to devise some means; the simplest is to pour the steam-
ing liquid onto clean hay in a sack which has been fastened over
the animal's head.
Absorption through the skin is accomplished by applying the
medicine to the skin, sometimes by standing the animal in a tub,
and sometimes by soaking cloths in the medicine and applying
with bandages.
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
45
Injections under the skin are administered by the hypodermic
syringe, but are rarely resorted to, and are given by a veterinarian
only and usually for the purpose of relieving an animal's suffering.
Injections into the rectum are resorted to for the purpose of clean-
ing it out, or as a means of administering moderate heat in order to
increase the circulation in adjacent parts, or to provide nourish-
ment when the animal is prevented by weakness, injury, or other
incapacity (such as in lockjaw) from taking food into the mouth,
or to reduce the temperature (cold water) in case of fever.
Ten days' field-
Medicine.
Use.
service supply
for 70 animals.
Dose.
1. Creolin, Pearson..
Antiseptic. .
1 1-pound bottle.
For external use, 1
tablespoonful to 1
pint of water; for
internal use,J to 1 ta-
blespoonful mixed
with 6 to 8 table-
spoonfulsofoliveoil.
2. Glauber salts
Laxative
2 1 -pound cans. .
2 to 4 handfuls; in
feed or dissolved in
water as a drench.
3. Acetanilide in al-
cohol.
Fever reducer
4 ounces dis-
solved in 1
Mix on receipt of in-
gredients; keeps
pint of alco-
hol.
indefinitely. (See
under "Colds," p.
46.) Dose, 2
ounces; do not re-
peat within 12
hours.
4. Fluid extract of
Pain deadener
2 ounces
1 teaspoonful (in
cannabis.
colic mixture).
5. Olive oil. .
Emollient
1 quart
2 ounces (in various
6. Cosmoline . . .
Scab softener
£ pound
mixtures).
Coating.
7. Castile soap
Cleanser
5 pounds
As required.
8. Lugol's solution:
Saddle sores,
1 fluid ounce io-
Mix on receipt of in-
Iodine, 5 parts;
scratches, and
dine, 4 ounces
gredients; apply
potassium io-
dide, 10; water,
eczema.
potassium
iodide.
externally; time,
daily.
100.
9. lodoform
Disinfectant for
1 ounce
Sprinkling.
drying up open
wounds.
10. Iodine solution. .
Disinfect fresh
1 pint
Pouring onto or coat-
open wounds.
ing of the exposed
flesh.
11. Colic mixture
Abdominal pain. .
Fluid extract
See "Diseases, in-
cannabis
ternal colic, "(P- 46).
Americana, 1
part; creolin,
(Pearson) 1
part; olive oil,
2 parts.
46 DUTIES OF THE FARRIER,
INTERNAL DISEASES.
The appetite is generally a very good index of ^he state of health
of the animal. If a horse refuses to eat his food or eats part only or
eats laboriously, it is important to ascertain the cause as soon as
possible. The mouth should be carefully examined to see whether
the sharp edges of the back teeth have cut the tongue or the cheeks.
Examine the front teeth to determine whether food has become
lodged between the gums and the teeth. It should be remembered
that except in old horses the upper gum is almost level with the
lower edge of the upper teeth.
Abdominal pain without inflammation.
Cause. — Faulty feeding.
Symptoms. — Sudden attack; paws, looks anxiously at flank, goes
down, sits, rises, shakes himself. These symptoms more or less
violent.
Treatment. — Take feed away from reach of animal. Give a dose
of "colic mixture" — fluid extract cannabis Americana, 1 teaspoon-
ful; creolin (Pearson), 1 tablespoonftil ; olive oil to fill 2-ounce
syringe.
Rub animal's abdomen with straw and cover with blanket.
Walk animal slowly until it is relieved. Inject lukewarm soap
water in rectum, 1 gallon or more. Don't repeat dose of medicine
before three hours, even if animal still suffers. Don't feed animal
until six hours after pain disappears. Don't offer water before
attack is over and then only in small quantity — half a bucket full.
If animal's temperature rises it is indicative of intestinal inflamma-
tion and chances for recovery are not good. Do not in such cases
give " fever mixture," but give only creolin (Pearson), 1 table-
spoonful with 8 tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and repeat every fourth
hour.
COLD, CATARRH, STRANGLES, PNEUMONIA, INFLUENZA.
Inflammation of mucous membranes, with or without rise of tem-
perature.
Symptoms. — Dullness, discharge from nostrils, cough, heavy
breathing.
Causes. — Exposure and infection.
Treatment. — If cold, put blanket on. Take temperature in the
animal's rectum; if over 102° F., put animal under shelter, but be
careful to keep it in well-aired place. Give fever mixture: Acet-
anilide, 1 tablespoonful dissolved in 8 tablespoonfuls alcohol, and
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER. 47
half an hour later give creolin (Pearson), half tablespoonful with
8 tablespoonfuls olive oil.
Dont't again give acetanilide until 12 hours, even if temperature
is still above 102° F. Give 2 ounces of olive oil four times daily.
If swelling shows around throat, heat a small quantity of olive oil
and rub in on swellling twice a day; don't heat the oil more than
can be borne by finger kept continuously in it. If lumps appear
under lower jaw and break open, they do not^indicate glanders.
If temperature rises to 104° F. or above, indications are that
animal has pneumonia. The animal will then not lie down and
breathes quicker than normal.
Let animal have the feed it wants and give a bran mash once a
day — not over 1 quart of wheat bran and only sufficient hot water
to make it damp.
DIARRHEA.
Cause. — Change of water or food, bad water or food, diseased
teeth, exposure, exhaustion, or too much physic.
Symptoms. — Passing frequently liquid feces.
Treatment. — Correct the fault if practicable. Rest the animal.
Give creolin, 1 teaspoonful in 4 tablespoonfuls of water or olive oil.
If the looseness of the bowels continues, give wheat flour stirred in
water. The animal should be kept quiet and made comfortable;
especially if the weather is cold keep it warm. Give less water
to drink.
WORMS.
Disposing cause. — Failure to give salt as often as should be, poor
condition.
Symptoms. — Itching of upper lip, licking the hide or stalls, rub-
bing the tail, rough coat, bowels irregular. Occasionally worms
may be seen in the feces. There are many kinds — tapeworms and
round worms. Those ordinarily encountered are round, reddish or
white and are about 6 to 12 inches long and J to f of an inch in
diameter. Tapeworms are flat, thin, jointed, white in color, and
vary in length, sometimes being 30 feet long.
Treatment. — If possible, keep food from animal one day before
beginning treatment and while giving it; or give gruel and water
only. Give twice daily for three days creolin 1 ounce, olive oil 3
ounces, and the next day a physic. The bot which lodges in the
rectum may be removed by enema of tobacco water or weak
creolin (disinfectant) twice per day for two days and followed by a
physic the next day. The animal should receive careful attention
afterwards to insure his building up in strength. See that the
horses get the proper amount of salt at regular intervals.
48 DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
RETENTION OP THE URINE.
Cause. — This is caused by a contraction of the mouth of the
bladder which occurs when the bladder is irritated or when a foreign
body gets into the canal or — most frequently — when the fecal
matter in the rectum accumulates and gets hard and presses on the
canal from above. The bladder lies just under the rectum; it is
gourd -shaped with the handle or neck immediately under the anus;
the outlet is immediately under the anus in the mare and in the
horse through the urethra which runs down between the hind legs
just beneath the skin to the male organ.
Symptoms. — The animal may be in great pain, in which case he
acts quite the same as when affected with the colic. He spraddles
his hind legs, strains, and tries to pass water.
Treatment. — The hand and fore arm, well oiled or soap-lathered,
should be inserted in the rectum when it will be easy to feel if the
bladder is distended. The rectum should first be thoroughly
cleaned by an enema (about a gallon of warm and soapy water
injection), after which it should be thoroughly examined to see
that all matter is removed. Then a very gentle massaging of the
mouth of the bladder by the hand in the rectum — using plenty of
oil — may relieve the irritation. Do not give sweet spirits of niter
(which is usually prescribed), for it only further irritates the
urinary system. Wash the sheath and the outlet thoroughly. If
the patient be a mare, the fingers may be oiled and inserted in the
urethra, and possibly the opening thus enlarged sufficiently to
permit the water to now. In the male the only way, if those sug-
gested fail after several hours' trial, to relieve the pressure of the
water in the bladder is by passing a catheter — but this requires the
skilled veterinarian. Often the throwing and shaking of a little
straw under the horse will induce the discharge of urine. A little
soap on the point of the penis will frequently produce the same
effect.
EXCESSIVE URINATING.
Cause. — Feeding of moldy grain and hay.
Treatment. — Remove cause. Give animal a pint of olive oil
twice a day for two days. If no sound feed can be obtained, have
the moldy grain or hay spread in open air, but protected against
rain.
HEAT EXHAUSTION, SUNSTROKE, THERMIC FEVER.
Symptoms. — Muscular weakness. Heart's action feeble, pulse
rapid, general depression, collapse.
Cause. — Prolonged exertion in hot atmosphere.
Treatment. — Rest animal. If no rise of temperature, give stimu-
lants such as alcohol in small often-repeated doses — J ounce every
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER. 49
half hour. Rub the body and limbs; give warm bath. If tempera-
ture is high (over 104° F.), give cold water bath, place ice on head,
rub body and legs. Give internally double dose of "fever mix-
ture" (see p. 45). Cold-water enema (injection of water into the
rectum) .
EXTERNAL DISEASES.
(See Pis. I, II, and III.)
Most of the external diseases coming to the attention consist
either of lameness, local irritation, skin diseases or abscesses. In
some cases (such as founder) the disease is really internal, but the *
treatment is taken up under this heading for convenience.
LAMENESS.
Find leg that animal favors. Trot him off; he will step lightly on
the lame leg, raising the head and lame leg together if lame in
front, and plant the other foot harder.
The degree of lameness varies from being hardly perceptible, to
one where the animal does not put the foot to the ground. Some
forms of lameness will show less after the animal has been exer-
cised awhile; in other cases the animal will show more lameness.
The former generally indicates something wrong with tendons, the
latter of the joints. Never forget to examine the hoof for punctures
by picked-up nails, pieces of glass, or small, sharp rocks wedged
between shoe and frog. Examine shoe and shoe nails. Tap with
hammer on heads of nails and if the animal shows pain, have shoe
removed. If pulsation can be noticed by putting hand on space
between canon bone and tendons about half distance from the knee
to fetlock (ankle) joint, it is likely that the cause for lameness is to
be found in the hoof. After the thorough examination of the hoof
has shown no cause for the lameness, proceed with the examination
to the joints, tendons, bones, and muscles. Notice any swelling,
soreness, enlargement, or wounds. If the cause is then not ap-
parent, pull the shoe and examine the nails. If damp the indi-
cations are that the nail has penetrated the sensitive hoof. If so,
the nail hole should be thoroughly disinfected, openings packed,
and re-dressed from day to day until animal recovers.
Don't forget to find out how long animal has been lame.
PUNCTURE OF THE HOOF.
Treatment. — Thin the horn around the injured place so that pus
can have outlet; then cleanse hoof with creolin solution, pack
hoof with cotton or oakum well saturated with pure, undiluted
76881°— 15 -4
50 DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
creolin and held in place by doubled sack wrapped around hoof
and tied between ankle and hoof. Be careful not to tie so tight as
to cut off circulation in the leg. Dress once a day until animal
shows no lameness; then put on shoe, but have leather sole put
between hoof and shoe.
FOUNDER OR LAMINITIS.
Congestion and inflammation in the hoofs. Usual in front hoofs,
but sometimes in all hoofs.
Symptoms. — Stiff walk, hind feet put forward under body.
Pulsation marked above affected feet.
Causes. — Overfeeding, change of feed from one kind of grain
to another; exhaustion on long marches, especially when horses
are unaccustomed to it.
Treatment. — Give a laxative, as Glauber salts, 4 to 8 handfuls
dissolved in water, or 1 to 2 quarts of olive oil. Don't give any
grain feed; if animal is hungry, give bran mash. Place animal
wilh feet in cold water and give slow exercise every hour for
from 5 to 10 minutes. Don't remove shoes on horse.
SPRAINS.
Sprains of joints and tendons are treated with cold water at
first; this must be continued as long as part feels hot by touch.
Then bathe with warm water or, better, use a hot- water poultice.
Hot-water poultice is made by taking a piece of a clean oat
sack large enough, when folded, to go twice around the joint.
Soak sack cloth in as hot water as the hands can bear, wring and
place it around the affected part, hold it in position by a 4-iridj
wide cotton bandage. Bandages must be changed at least once
a day; hot-water bandage should be taken off before it gets cool.
It is useless to try to bandage at places on the legs above knee
or hock. Warm oil can be used with advantage in case a sprain
has existed for several days. The use of either liniment, blister,
or firing is inadvisable.
Massage is useful and advisable when the skin is unbroken.
Massage consists of rubbing with the hands, and it should be done
in a direction toward the heart, but it must not be continued
after the skin gets irritated.
DRY HOOFS.
Under ordinaiy stable conditions the hoofs will become dry
and will crack. The animal should be stood in water for several
hours each day or hoofs packed with well-moistened clay.
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER. 51
CONTRACTED HEELS.
Caused by bad shoeing. (See under "Shoeing.")
Cause. — This disease is generally due to dampness accompanied
by filth.
Symptoms. — The seat of the disease is in the center crack or
cleft of the frog, which at first shows dampness and has an offensive
smell. This dampness develops into a discharge which is watery
at first, but soon changes to a thicker and heavier colored con-
sistency. Lameness does not result at first, but if not attended to
the crack gets very deep, the frog becomes more and more affected
and withers away, the heel becomes contracted, and lameness
finally results.
Treatment. — Bathe thoroughly with creolin wash; remove the
affected portions carefully; pack with creolin-soaked oakum or
cotton and bandage this on well. Renew the treatment daily
until cured.
Cause. — This is a malignant growth which begins between the
bar and the frog and spreads to the sole. between the horny and
the fleshy part. Dampness does not cause it, but it does provide
the conditions which are almost essential to the commencement
and which favor the continuation of the disease. Filthy stand-
ing places — especially stables which are not cleaned — and bruises
of the frog or the sole are favorable conditions for the disease to
get a foothold.
Symptoms. — It differs from thrush in that thrush attacks the
frog and is accompanied by a discharge from the cleft or the center
crack of the frog, while the former begins where the frog joins
onto the sole and spreads rapidly to the entire foot. It is prac-
tically a rotting away of the sole accompanied by a watery dis-
charge. Small cheeselike growths of new — apparently healthy —
horn grow out but they soon break out and decay. The discharge
is very offensive to the smell.
Treatment. — This is a very serious disease which is puzzling
to even those most skilled in veterinary science. Some think it
is a parasite, others believe it to be very similar to cancer. A
veterinarian should be called at the first opportunity. Until
one can be secured the foot should be cleaned, diseased parts
removed, and the foot packed with full-strength creolin and the
52 DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
foot encased in sack. The animal should be placed on a footing of
dry sand.
This disease is contagious, and great care should be taken to
see that other animals are protected against standing in the place
formerly occupied by a diseased horse, and the diseased animal
should have the unaffected feet kept from contamination. (See
" Disinfectants," p. — .)
Is a swelling, at first hard and firm, painful on pressure; gradu-
ally the center bulges and a softening is felt. This may occur in
many places — such as on the poll, called "poll evil" — but the
treatment is essentially the same.
Treatment. — Apply warm olive oil twice a day until fluctuation
is detected ; after the area has been washed with warm water and
castile soap and rinsed with pure water or an antiseptic solution,
open with curved bistoury. Don't make too large an opening
but one sufficiently large that the pus may flow. Then syringe
out cavity with antiseptic solution and apply oil around opening.
Keep area clean.
SORE EYES.
Swelling of eyelids caused by injury is best treated with a weak
solution of creolin (Pearson), 10 drops in J pint of lukewarm water.
Repeat wash every hour. If eyeball is clouded, see to it that the
solution gets on the eyeball.
DISEASES OF THE SKIN.
SCRATCHES.
A cracking of the skin between the fetlock and the heels. Some
horses are predisposed to this disease, especially horses with long-
haired fetlocks. Moisture and mud are causative agents. Clean-
liness is the most important part of the treatment and it should
be remembered that cold water should not be used for washing
of the affected parts. Use lukewarm soap water, rinse off with
pure boiled and cooled water, and wipe very dry with cotton or
clean linen rag. Apply a thin cover of vaseline, lanolin, or grease,
to which has been added a little creolin or iodine. During winter
campaigns in country where the soil becomes deep mud, do not
clip the hairs on fetlocks as they are a protection for the delicate
skin, and it is far better to let the mud dry and brush it off than to
wash.
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER. 53
MANGE, ECZEMA, AND LICE.
These are affections of the skin, and they attack all parts of the
body. They are manifested by itching and the hair falling out.
Mange is caused by a small mite that lives in the skin, and the
irritation set up causes a secretion that dries and forms scabs.
Eczema, caused by fungi, is detected in shape of small or large
pimples causing itch and falling out of hair. Lice are parasites
that live on the skin and can be seen best when the horse is taken
in sunshine.
Treatment. — Attention must first be directed to destroying the
parasites ^without injuring the skin. A soap wash to which is added
coal oil (1 to 10) is very good. It must be left on the animal for
one day, and during this time the animal should not be exposed
to the sun. Then wash with plain soap water, rinse with pure
water, and dry the horse with straw or clean rags.
Ticks are often encountered, being usually picked up from
bushes, and if a horse is in poor flesh they will be found very
troublesome to get rid of. They should not be pulled off, for the
head will generally remain fast and will, if left, cause irritation
and sores; turpentine or carbolic water or a heated knife or nail
will cause them to let go.
BITES.
For bites of poisonous reptiles or insects apply ammonia water.
It may also be given internally, but very diluted when the bite is
that of a snake. Strong solution of creolin may be used.
INJURIES.
Injuries may be grouped into two classes — wounds and contu-
sions.
A wound is a separating of organic tissue caused by mechanic
action that pierces the external covering (skin, mucous membrane).
Wounds may be considered according to the cause, form, and the
danger of the injury.
A cut wound is caused by a sharp instrument or the like, and is
marked by its smooth edges and extension lengthwise.
A stab wound has the greatest extension in depth and is caused
by a pointed instrument.
A contused wound is a wound where the separating of the tissue
is caused by an instrument that acted by pressure and crushing or
tearing, and where there is more or less blood infiltration (swelling)
in adjacent tissue. The contused wound has not the smooth
bleeding surface of the cut wound, often no bleeding at all, and
has irregular form with ragged edges.
54 DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
WOUND INFECTION AND HEALING.
In a wound, the tissue that was protected by the skin comes in
contact with the air or with external bodies, and is liable to be
contaminated or infected by pathogenic (disease producing) germs
which influence the process of repair which the animal system
starts almost immediately the injury is inflicted.
Treatment. — The first step in the treatment of a wound is the
cleansing by which foreign bodies in the wound are removed.
Stopping the hemorrhage (bleeding) must be considered also.
The cleansing is done byx applying an antiseptic solution, as
creoline (1 part to 25 parts water), or carbolic (phenol) acid, 1 part
to 20 parts water, or corrosive sublimate (mercuric chloride), 1 to
1,000, or tincture of iodine, or simply sterilized (boiled) and cooled
water. A syringe can be used for this purpose with advantage.
Do not use a sponge, but instead use a plug of absorbent cotton,
and this should be thrown away after use. Foreign bodies, as
splinters, straw, hair, etc., must be carefully removed; an artery
forceps is very handy. In a shot wound a bullet extractor is useful.
Hemorrhage (bleeding) is either from very small blood vessels
(capillary) or from larger blood vessels. The capillary bleeding
will soon cease and will rather assist in the cleansing of the wound.
When larger vessels have been cut, a stopping will be necessary
and can be effected by torsion (twisting) of the blood vessel with
the artery forceps or by ligation (tying a string around the bleeding
artery).
After the wound has been cleansed it must be decided whether
healing by first intention (that is, an immediate union of the parts
without suppuration) is possible or healing by granulation, is to
take place. The question must be considered as to whether an
open treatment of the wound or a covering by bandages is prefer-
able.
The healing by first intention can rarely be expected in horse or
mule, and therefore suturing (sewing up) should only be resorted
to in cut wounds where no loss of tissue has occurred. The inten-
tion with the suture is to bring the edges of the wound in contact
and hold them so, firmly. Sutures must therefore be put rather
deep and each stitch tied in a knot. At certain parts of the body
this healing seems to take place easier than on others, for example,
the eyelids and lips. The most common way of wound healing is
by granulation; that is, by formation of new organized growth of
tissue. The healing should take place with least possible suppera-
tion (pus discharge), and to obtain this the disease-producing germs
already in the wound should be destroyed by the use of antiseptic
wash. Do not use too strong antiseptics, as they will destroy sound
tissue and create a favorable soil for the disease-producing germs.
DUTIES OF THE FARRIER. 55
Keep the wound well protected from further contamination and
have the wound well drained, so that no pus or secretion from the
wound is retained. This is done by placing a thoroughly sterilized
(boiled) strip of cloth in the wound letting the end stick out of the
wound. The protection of the wound can be accomplished either
by a bandage or by an antiseptic dusting powder that will form a
scab. Sometimes the granulations will grow too freely and will
have to be checked so they do not protrude in the wound (form
proud flesh). This can be done by caustics as bluestone or by a
hot iron.
CONTUSION (BRUISES).
By this is understood a disease process caused by undue com-
press of organic tissue, and generally without the skin's being
broken. As a rule the force is from outside (kick and pressure).
The extent of the contusion depends on the force, the direction
from which it is inflicted, and the duration of the time in which
the cause acts.
By a si ight contusion we only notice the swelling caused by blood
that comes in the tissue from the broken smaller or larger blood
vessels, and this will, if not exposed to new cause, soon be absorbed.
Bathing with cold water or a cold-water compress will assist the
resorption.
The two forms of contusion that are of most importance in the
Army Service are those caused by pressure of saddle and harness
(saddle and harness galls), or the aparejo, and by kicks from other
animals.
Prevention is better than cure. No mounted man must ever be
negligent in saddl ing nor driver in harnessing his horses or mules.
Therefore great care should be taken to examine animals when the
saddle or harness is taken off. Give attention to any swelling or
skin abrasion. When found, wash the part at once with soap and
water, and rinse with cold water and then bathe with cool creolin
water. Repeat this treatment every hour and the swelling will
ordinarily soon disappear. See that next time the saddle or harness
is put on the horse that no pressure comes to the injured part.
If the swelling does not disappear by this treatment, use bathing
with warm water or hot water poultice. If part of the skin is so
badly injured as to show signs of mortification (partial death),
and a poultice will not remove it, this mortified part must be cut
away by a knife. Turpentine mixed with flour, equal parts,
made to a paste and applied to the mortified part will usually
remove it. After the dead tissue is removed, treat as a wound.
Contusions caused by kick should be treated by bathing with
cold or warm creolin solution and, if complicated with wound, as
already advised.
56 DUTIES OF THE FARRIER.
Contusions are sometimes caused by man's abuse of forks, sticks,
whips, and spurs. To prevent this we can only remind those that
can not control their bad temper that they are unfit for handling
animals and are deserving of severe punishment.
Rope burns and injuries from interfering are contused wounds
and should be treated as such. The first mentioned is due to care-
less hitching — too long.
Interfering — the striking of one foot against the other in travel-
ing— is due mostly to careless shoeing but sometimes to faulty
conformation and action or to weakness. Young horses in poor
condition will often interfere as soon as they get tired. The shoeing
should be observed, to see that no part of the shoe protrudes on the
inside of the hoof and that the clinches of the nails are made level
with the wall of the hoof. In an emergency — on the march — a
twisted hay or straw band wrapped around the fetlock below
the joint on the injured leg will prevent further injury.
Shot wounds are essentially contused wounds, and they are
treated accordingly. Tincture of iodine is especially effective in
such cases.
CHAPTER III.
WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
Wagoner's Chevron.
The wagoner or teamster is responsible for his team, harness, and
wagon, with tools and repair parts. The condition in which he
keeps them is a measure of his efficiency. Keep your animals in
good flesh, clean, and free from lameness and bunches or boils,
and get your load to the destination and you will be a successful
driver. Excuses do not go. If anything happens which you think
might excuse you for not getting your load to the desired point,
remember that it only makes hungry men madder if you tall them
you ' ' broke the harness " or " lost the axle nut " or your ' ' mule lost a
shoe" or "shoulders got sore." Unless you "get there " some way,
they will brand you "no good," and you can not always get there
unless you keep your outfit always in first-class shape.
Feed and water your mules before you do yourself. Look over
their feet every morning the first thing and every evening af tar you
unhitch; clean them out and see if the shoes are loose. It is a good
idea to tap the shoes lightly with a knife handle or hammer; if the
animal flinches there is something wrong.
Great care should be taken in making crossings such as bridges
(especially ponton), fords, and ditches. A swift-moving load
causes about twice the strain on a bridge as does a stationary or
slow-moving one.
Before passing a swollen stream with a team it should be exam-
ined by wading or by riding an animal across. If the team should
happen to get beyond its. depth, release the animals by cutting the
top hame straps and the check lines; if practicable the bellybands
also should be cut.
In pulling heavy loads or in heavy ground if there is any liability
of the team's stopping, stop the animals yourself before they get
stalled. Many animals will not pull again on a load in the same
place where they have met with a resistance which has impressed
57
58 WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
them as insurmountable. If the team should get stuck, it may be
induced to try again by turning the tongue slightly to the right or
left and then getting all off together.
In starting a team with a heavy load or in any situation where it
is necessary to get the united power of the animals, the reins should
be held fairly tight so that the animals may be made to feel the aid
and guidance of the driver.
Draft animals should never be driven out of a walk. Those used
on buckboards, spring wagons, and other light vehicles, and which
are usually specially chosen for the purpose, may be driven at a
trot when necessary.
Army transportation by animals consists of pack mule (see p.
96), spring wagon, ambulance, escort wagon (see PI. IX to XV)
and "Army six" (see PL XII).
The complete equipment of spare parts and accessories for the
escort wagons and teams is as follows:
ESCORT WAGON AND HARNESS, COMPLETE SET.
1 wagon, escort, includes running gear, wagon Jbody, 1 tongue, 1
doubletree, 1 lead bar, 4 singletrees, 6 bows, 2 chains lock, 1 wagon
cover, 1 jockey box, and 1 tool box, each with padlock and key;
1 driver's seat and 1 axle wrench (total weight 2,000 pounds).
Wa g( >n equipment :
Wagon pa.-ts, extra (total weight 106 pounds) —
2 blocks, brake.1
1 bolt, king.1
Bolts, tire —
1 iby 2f inches.1
5 I by 3 inches.1
Bolts, wagon —
2 J by 1| inches.1
2 ^ by If inches.1
1 -f$ by 2 inches.1
2 A by 2 J inches.1
2 | by 3 inches.1
1 £ by 11 inches.1
4 f by 4 inches.1
3 links, open.1
2 nuts, axle.1
1 reach.2
6 rivets, iron, -f^ by 1^ inches.1
4 rivets, iron, | by 1J inches.1
1 tongue.2
1 tree, double (carried bolted to coupling pole).
1 tree, single.1
i Carried in oscillating tool box. 2 Carried on left side of wagon body.
WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
60
WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
61
62
WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
65
76881° — 15-
66 WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
Wagon equipment — Continued.
Wagon accessories (total weight 83 pounds):
1 ax and helve.1
4 bags, nose.1
1 brush, horse.1
1 bucket, galvanized iron.1
1 comb, curry.1
1 globe, lantern (earned in lantern).1
4 grease, axle, pounds.1
4 halters, and straps.1
1 lantern, combination.1
1 pickax and helve.1
150 rope, J-inch, feet.1
1 spade.1
1 whip, carried in socket.
1 wick, lantern (carried in lantern).1
1 wrench, monkey.1
1 twine, ball.1
(For winter use, whon authorized, 1 blanket-lined cover
for each mule.)
Harness:
2 lead, s. s. (72 pounds), carried on mules.
2 wheel, s. s. (90 pounds), carried on mules.
Harness equipment —
Harness parts, extra (total weight 8£ pounds) —
1 buckle f-inch.2
1 buckle, J-inch.2
1 buckle, 1-inch.2
1 buckle, 2-inch.2
2 clips, trace.1
2 hames.1
1 ring, f-inch.2
1 ring, 1-inch.2
1 ring, IJ-inch.2
1 ring, 2-inch.2
1 snap, 1-inch.2
1 snap, 1 J-inch.2
1 snap, 2-inch.2
3 straps, hame.1
Harness accessories (total weight 6 pounds) —
^ gallon oil, neat's foot.1
1 pound soap, harness.1
1 sponge.1
1 wire, stove, spool.2
1 Carried in oscillating tool box. 2 Carried in jockey box.
WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
67
Harness — Continued.
Additional supplies to be carried in wagon, which are not in-
cluded in the " complete set." These supplies are provided and
maintained by organizations:
128 nails, horseshoe, number (1-pound).1
16 shoes, mule, fitted, number (16 pounds).1
In campaign (F. S. R. 302):
36 grain, reserve, pounds.2
2 rations, reserve, number.2
The foregoing list of articles is prescribed for each escort wagon
and team wherever used. The oscillating tool box may be fitted
on the escort wagon of any model.
Wheels, extra : One wagon of each regimental field train — prefer-
ably the most lightly laden grain wagon — will be equipped with
one extra hind wheel in addition to the usual wagon equipment.
For each mule-drawn vehicle of the combat trains of engineers
and signal troops, two single sets of wheel harness and as many
single sets of lead harness as there are lead mules (see Tables of
Organization, 1914), are provided; the extra parts of the harness
and the harness accessories are, for 4-mule teams, as prescribed
under escort wagons; for 6-mule teams, multiply by 1J. The extra
parts of the wagons are not supplied by the Quartermaster Corps.
The remaining wagon accessories supplied are limited to the fol-
lowing:
Articles.
For 4-mulc
wagon.
For 6-mule
wagon.
Bags, nose
4
6
Brushes, horse
1
2
Combs, curry.
1
2
Grease, axle, pounds
4
6
Halters and straps
4
6
Whip
1
1
(For winter use, when especially authorized, 1 blanket-lined
cover for each mule.)
1 Carried in jockey box.
2 Carried in oscillating tool box.
68 WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
HARNESS.
The subjects of description, methods of cleaning, caring for, and
repairing of harness are covered under the heading of the duties
of the saddler.
CARE OF WAGON.
The principal effort required to keep a wagon in order is the
daily examination of all nuts to see that they are tight, and greasing
the wheels about every 30 miles. Even if the wagon is used
but little, the axles should be examined twice a week at least.
The 4 pounds of axle grease furnished with the escort wagon
should last about a month. In greasing, remove the old grease,
because, if not, the dirt and sand will accumulate and cause a
"hot box,'* and completely disable the wagon, make you late
getting in, and cause a lot of trouble.
To grease a wagon without using a wagon jack: Remove the axle
nut (remember that the nuts on the right side are right handed and
those on the left are left handed). Get a board or a stick slightly
longer than the distance from the axle to the ground . Place one end
on the ground and inside the wheel, the other end leaning toward
the wheel; place this upper end under a spoke which is about
horizontal (level). Then raise the wheel slightly by lifting care-
fully on the spoke on the opposite side of the wheel, when, if it has
been greased often enough, the weight of the wagon will cause the
wheel to slide down the spindle. Be careful the wheel doesn't
get more than three-fourths of the way off; however, the wheel
should be taken off far enough to get the old grease off. This
method will not work if the axles have not been kept properly
greased.
To put on the wheel, reverse the process, placing the stick on the
outside. Needless to say, though, the wheel will not run on (like
it does off), but, with the inclination of the stick and slight pres-
sure on the wheel (toward the wagon), it will go on.
It is also unnecessary to remark that the nearer the upper end
of the stick is placed to the hub, the less power it will take to lift
the wheel off the ground.
WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
69
REPAIRS TO WAGONS.
For each regiment, wagon company, ambulance company,
engineer train, engineer battalion, and signal corps battalion
(those organizations having a large number of wagons) is issued, by
the Quartermaster Corps, a set of carpenters' and wheelwrights'
tools, as follows (PI. XVI):
Figure.
Article.
Number.
1 Axe, hand *
2 Auger, hollow, adjustable, i-inch to 11-inch
3 Bits, auger, •&, i,* g, £,* |, f ,* |, 1 inch
4 Bit, screw driver *
5 Brace, ratchet, 12-inch *
6 Calipers, pair
7 Chisels, socket, firmer, \ , |, J; f, \* 1, 1£, 2 inch.
8 Files, saw, taper, S-incbX* 3 in kit)
9 Gauge, thumb, mortise
10 Hammer, claw, handled *
11 Knife, drawing
12 Oiler*
13 Plane, smooth, 8-inch
14 Plane, jack, 15-inch
15 Plane, jointer, 24-inch
16 Hasp, wood, 12-inch
17 Rule, 2-foot *
18 Saw, hand, crosscut *
19 Saw, hand, rip
20 Nest of saws, compass, with 1 handle, 3 blades. .
21 Screw driver, hand
22 Set, saw *
23 Spoke pointer
24 Square, try, 75-inch
25 Square, steel, 2-foot
26 Stone, oil *
27 Vise, 4-inch jaw
28 Wrench, monkey, 10-inch *
The articles marked * when extracted from the set form the
carpenters' and wheelwrights' tool kit and form part of equip-
ment "A" (see preface). Remaining articles are in equipment
"B."
There is issued by the Ordnance Department to the Field Ar-
tillery, to be carried in the battery and forge wagon, a set of car-
penter tools, shown on Plates XVII and XVIII as follows.
70
WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
WAGONER OK TEAMSTER.
71
PLATE XVII.
72
WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
PLATE XVIII.
WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
Carpenter7 s tools.
73
Article.
Number.
Bench ax
Bags, canvas, for small stores
Bevel
Bits, auger, sizes \, \, f, I, U, H inches
Bit, wood, countersink, f-inch diameter, rose head
Bit, expansive, 2 cutters, | to 3 inches
Bits, screw-driver, sizes f , f , and f inch
Brace, ratchet, 10-inch sweep
Chisels, socket, framing, sizes f , 1, and 1 J inches
Divider, wing, 10-inch, forged steel
Drills, twist, sizes /T, ^, /j, and ^ inch
File, 10-inch, flat, bastard
Files, saw, sizes 4 and 6 inches
Gage, marking, brass, thumb-screw ? shoe and face
Gouges, socket firmer, sizes J and 1 inch
Hammer, claw, adze eye, bell face, 1 pound 4 ounces
Handle, tool, containing 10 tools
Handles, file, aluminum alloy
Knife, drawing, folding and adjustable handle
Knife, drawing, 9-inch blade
Mallet, 2f by 5 inches, maple, hickory handle
Nail sets
O ilers
Oil stone, unmounted, 1 by 2 by 8 inches, Arkansas soft.
Pincers, small, 8-inch, solid steel
Plane, jack, wood, 16-inch, 2i-inch double bit
Plane, smoothing, wood, 8-inch, 2-inch double bit
Plate, auger handle
Rasp, wood, 10-inch, half round
Reamer, half round , for wood or soft metal
Rule, boxwood, 2-foot, 4-fold
Saw, crosscut, 24-inch, 7-point
Saw, crosscut, 20-inch, 8-point
Saw, rip, 24-inch, 5-point
Saw set
Screw driver, 5-inch blade, 10 inches over r 11
Spoke shave, adjustable, raised handle, 2J-mch cutter. . .
Square, steel, 12-inch body, 8- inch tongue
Tape lino, linen, metallic warp, 100-foot, marked 12ths. .
Toolkit..
Vise, table, 2A-inch jaw, 3-pound
Wrench, screw, 12-inch, solid bar
i |-inch.
2 6-inch.
74 WAGONER OR TEAMSTER.
ROUTINE OF DUTIES OF TEAMSTER.
It is a good plan to have a fixed time for every routine duty,
for then there will be no chance of overlooking anything. Cer-
tain duties should be attended to daily and some weekly. The
following is suggested daily: Immediately after rising, water your
animals; when taking to water note carefully if they walk lame;
then feed grain to animals, wash yourself, and get breakfast;
give animals a very hasty cleaning, clean and inspect feet and
shoes carefully, clean the ground where animals have stood during
night; hitch up and report where ordered; water at every oppor-
tunity either from running stream or from bucket — never from
public trough unless pronounced healthy by proper authority.
When work is finished in evening, park the wagon in place desig-
nated, remove harness and hang up, rub off collars, belly bands,
and cruppers; water; tie animals to picket line; clean out and
examine the feet carefully, make a note of loose or lost shoes;
feed grain and hay; report animals requiring shoeing or veterinary
attention, especially examine carefully for any abrasion or enlarge-
ment; wash and get dinner; glance over harness and the nuts on
wagon, making any minor repairs and reporting those which
require attention of a specialist; grease the wagon, if required;
groom, wash animals' shoulders, and fix the harness so as to remove
the pressure the next day from any swollen parts.
Don't ever try to pad a bunch — it only makes things worse. If
the felt collar pads are not obtainable, pieces of sheepskin with
thongs attached are very handy for use in case of sore shoulder
or collar boils; they are tied one on each side of affected part;
they should be large enough to cover (except the affected part)
the entire half of the collar. Small pieces would only cause undue
pressure on the spots covered by these pieces. Especial care
should be exercised in fitting of the collar. If too large, it will
move about and will make the shoulders sore; if it is too small
it will choke the animal. The collar is the right size if the hand
(flat) can be put between the bottom (the inside) of the collar
and the windpipe. (See ''Fitting harness," p. 78.)
CHAPTER IV.
THE SADDLER.
Saddler's chevron.
The saddler is charged with the repair of individual leather horse
equipment of the personnel in mounted organizations and with the
harness pertaining to the trains.
The individual horse equipment is described in the Cavalry Drill
Regulations. The two principal types of harness issued by the
Quartermaster Department are known as the "Four-mule Ambu-
lance or Wagon Harness" and the " Six-mule U. S. Army Wagon
Harness."
The escort wagon is drawn by four mules, which are equipped
with one double set of lead harness and one double set of wheel
harness, of the "four-mule ambulance or wagon harness" type.
This type is distinguished by the traces, which consist of leather
from hames to the breeching, the remainder of the length being of
chain with hook at the end. This harness is illustrated in Plates
XIX to XXI, pages , with list of parts as follows^
The assembled double set of lead harness is shown in Plate XX
and of wheel harness in Plate XXI. The entire set (two single,
lead, and two single, wheel, sets) for a four-mule team, with team
hitched to escort wagon, is shown in Plates IX, X, and XI.
The Six-mule United States Army Wagon Harness (used on reserve
ponton, and on heavy "Army six" wagons no longer issued) has
no harness saddles, has breeching of a single flat leather strap, and
traces are all chain covered with leather. The six-mule team is
ordinarily managed by a driver, mounted on a riding saddle on the
near (left) wheel horse or wheel mule, who uses a jerk line and a
blacksnake. A riding saddle, check rein, and jockey stick are
part of the equipment.
PLATE XIX.— Ambulance or wagon harness.
No. 1.
No. 2.
No. 3.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No. 10.
No. 11.
No. 12.
No. 14.
No. 15.
No. 16.
Crownpiece (lead and wheel).
Straps, throat.
Bands, brow.
Check pieces.
Blinds.
Winker stays.
Face pieces. ,
Straps, bit.
Bits, bridle, ambulance, No. 47- A.
Reins, bridle, long.
Reins, bridle, short.
Straps, rein.
Hames.
Straps, hame, upper and lower.
Straps, breast.
No. 17. Straps, choke.
No. 18. Traces, single.
No. 19. Bands, back (straps, back).
No. 20. Bands, belly.
No. 21. Breechings, complete.
No. 22. Straps, breeching.
No. 23. Straps, turnback, complete.
No. 24. Straps, hip.
No. 25. Lines, 2-horse.
No. 27. Lines, 4-horse.
No. 34. Crupper, lead.
No. 35. Straps, carrying.
No. 36. Martingales.
No. 37. Tugs, back-strap (with No. 18).
No. 38. Straps, side (21-38).
76
THE SADDLER.
THE SADDLER,
77
W
e
a
78 THE SADDLER.
FITTING HARNESS.
The chief difficulty of the driver is in fitting the collar, and too
much pains can not be taken to understand the cause and the
prevention of collar sores. Nearly all shoulder sores are due to
large collars. If the collar is top long, the pressure is applied too
low on the shoulder and sores will occur at the lower part. If the
collar is too wide, the pressure is applied on the outer parts of the
shoulder, the flesh will be rubbed by the slipping of the collar and
sores will form at the upper part of the shoulder. The collar should
conform exactly to the shape of the shoulder and should fit so
snugly that only the thickness of the fingers can be forced between
the collar and the neck. This clearance should be exactly the
same from the top of the collar to the throat. Great care should
be taken to select the proper size of collar and to work it to the shape
of the shoulder by light use before field service is required. The
collar should be moist when first used on an animal so that it will
be shaped to the neck by the pressure of the draft. This moisture
is most effectively given by wrapping the collar in wet sacks and
leaving them on for one night before the collar is used. On account
of the difficulty of securing proper size collars, pads of cotton or
felt should be secured. If not with the harness when issued, every
effort should be made to secure them — one for each collar. These
pads fill in the irregular space between ill-fitting collars and the
neck, and thus partially compensate for the evil.
When sores form, the filling should be removed from the part of
the cotton or felt pad over the sore, but the covering of the pad
should not be cut. The filling can be removed by ripping the
edge and carefully pulling out the required amount without dis-
turbing the surrounding portion.
When suitable sizes of collars can not be obtained, a large collar
may be reduced in size by cutting off the top ends and reattaching
the buckles and straps. The collar may then be buckled so as to
make it shorter and narrower.
Sores on top of the neck result from the pressure of the harsh
edges of the upper ends of the collar; from the effort to hold back
the wagon by the breast chain; from the rolling effect of a large
collar, and from the downward pull of the traces. All these evils
may be remedied by proper care. To prevent the upper edges of
the collar from rubbing, a steel collar pad should always be used
next to the mane; every effort should be made to secure these
pads, as they will save much annoyance. These pads are attached
to the collar by leather straps and protect the flesh from the harsh
ends of the collar and from the roughness of the cotton or felt pad.
Breast chains should be lengthened to the last ring and should never
THE SADDLER. 79
be tight; they guide the pole and are not intended to hold back the
load. A close-fitting collar will not roll over the neck as the ani-
mal walks, and thus it chafes the flesh. The trace should be held
by the back strap at such a height that its direction at the hames
is about perpendicular to the shoulder. This avoids the downward
pressure on the neck.
The hames should be adjusted in length by shifting the upper
strap to the proper holes. The length should be such that the point
of attachment of the trace will be opposite the middle of the surface
of the shoulder over which the collar rests. This is for the purpose
of distributing the pressure evenly over the shoulder and thus
reduce it to the minimum at all points. If the attachment of the
trace is too low, or too high, the pressure is localized at one place
and produces sores. In adjusting hames, the straps should not be
so tight as to squeeze the collar; the upper hame straps should be
just long enough to be taut when the lower straps are buckled snug.
In fitting the bridle, the bit should be adjusted so as to be up in
the corner of the mouth, but not so far up as to wrinkle it.
CARE OF HARNESS.
Never throw the harness on the ground; hang it somewhere; place
the shoulder side of the collars outside, so they will dry; this will
save trouble of cleaning and of caring for animals injured by hard
or muddy leather; such animals are useless but must be attended
to anyway.
It is better to wipe off the harness immediately after coming in —
before the dirt has gotten hard .
Leather should be kept soft and pliable, and the only way to do
this is to keep it cleaned and oiled. Never put leather in, or wash
it with, hot water — such treatment ruins it.
In cleaning be sure to get into the cracks, especially about the
keepers; take the ends of straps out of the keepers for this purpose.
Do not wear a buckle in the same hole all the time; shift the
buckle a hole or so occasionally, and the leather will not rot out at
that one place.
Clean harness whenever it gets muddy or dirty; clean and oil it
at least twice a month if in use. Think of the uncomfortable feel-
ing on your own foot of a shoe which has gotten wet and has dried
rather quickly, and you can realize how a mule feels wearing har-
ness which has not been properly cared for after having gotten wet.
Especially should the collars, cruppers, backhands, or saddles,
and belly bands or girths be kept soft and pliable. The collar
requires particular attention; it should be rubbed clean — not
76881° — 15—6
80 THE SADDLER.
scraped — every day after use, and again just before putting on. The
collar should be kept buckled when off— it keeps its shape better.
To clean the harness: First rig up a rack of some sort to hang it
on, for it makes the work so much easier. Use the wagon tongue
or put the extra coupling pole between the spokes of hind wheel
above the hub and strap the other end to the axle. Get a bucket-
ful of water (warm but not hot), sponge, harness soap, neats-foot
oil (and some lampblack, if you can). Soften the mud and dirt by
using plenty of water, but do not put the leather in the water to
soak — it spoils it.
When all the dirt has been removed which is possible with
water alone, make a thin lather of the soap on the sponge and com-
plete the cleaning. In cleaning, rub as little as practicable— do
it mostly by soaking the dirt off.
Let it dry gradually; never by a fire nor in the hot sun.
If lampblack be available, stir some into the neats-foot oil until
it has a glossy appearance. Apply this on a small sponge or piece
of cloth and rub this thoroughly into the leather. Then let it dry in.
Cleaning and preserving materials for mounted equipment and
artillery harness are furnished by the Ordnance Department; for
wagon harness and other quartermaster equipment by the Quar-
termaster Corps.
REPAIRS.
The repair work required in caring for leather equipment will
vary from the hasty patching of a broken trace on the march to
actual making of certain parts in camps of considerable duration.
There is a set of saddler's tools issued by the Ordnance Department
and one issued by the Quartermaster Department. To organiza-
tions having trains of quartermaster transportation, a quartermaster
set of saddler's tools is issued , i. e. , to each regimental headquarters,
wagon company, ambulance company, engineer train, engineer
battalion, and Signal Corps battalion. Mounted organizations are
furnished suitable sets of such tools by the Ordnance Department.
Of the quartermaster sets, portions only are taken into the field,
called the "field kits."
THE SADDLER.
81
IW
IJU U I
PLATE XXII.
82
THE SADDLER.
36
PLATE XXIII.
THE SADDLER. 83
The ordnance set is as follows (see Pis. XXII and XXIII), viz:
Saddler's tools.
Article.
Number issued to one-
Battery of heavy, horse, or light artillery.
Battery, or regimental headquarters (in-
cluding band) of mounted artillery.
Cavalry troop .
Engineer company, pioneer.
Field or telegraph company, Signal Corps.
d
i
i
0<
1
o
I
a
f
1
Regimental headquarters (including band)
of heavy, horse, or light artillery.
1 Headquarters supply and machine-gun
company.
Awl blades, harness, assorted, Nos. 43
to 48, inclusive
12
12
12
T>
Awl blades, harness, assorted, Nos. 43,
45, and 48 ....
3
3
3
3
Awl, pegging
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
6
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
6
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
6
1
Awl, seat, handled .
1
1
1
1
1
1
Carriage, pricking, 3 wheels, Nos. 7, 8,
and 10
Compass, 6-inch
1
1
1
1
1
1
Creaser, double, lignum-vitae
Edge tool, No. 1
1
Edge tool, No. 2
1
2
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
2
1
1
Extra blades with followers for draw
gauge
Gauge, draw, brass
Hammer, No. 3, riveting
Handle, peg (leather top), with wrench.
Handles, awl, flat, imitation ebony,
assorted, 6 sizes
' 6
7
3
1
Handles, awl, flat, imitation ebony,
assorted, 3 sizes
3
3
1
3
Knife, round
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
12
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
12
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
1
1
1
Knife, splitting, 6-inch
Needle case, leather
1
1
1
1
1
Needles, Glover's, No 3, papers
Needles, harness, No. 4, papers
1
1
1
2
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Needles, harness, No. 5, papers
Needles, harness, No. 6, papers
Needles, sacking, assorted, sizes 4 and
4i inches..
THE SADDLER.
Saddler's tools — Continued.
!
£
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
Article.
Number issued to one-
Battery of heavy, horse, or light artillery.
Battery, or regimental headquarters (in-
cluding band) of mounted artillery.
Cavalry troop.
Engineer company, pioneer.
Field or telegraph company, Signal Corps.
Machine-gun troop or headquarters troop.
Regimental headquarters (including band)
of heavy, horse, or light artillery.
Headquarters supply and machine-gun
company.
Nippers, cutting, 10-inch
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Oilstone Washita unmounted
Pliers, 6-inch
Punches, hand, Nos. 5, 7, 8, and 10,
round
4
4
4
4
Punches hand Nos 5 and 7
0
2
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
Punch, revolving, 4 tubes, Nos. 4, 5, 6,
and 7
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
R i vet set
Rule, boxwood, 2- foot, 4-fold . . .
Screw driver, 3-inch blade, coml., 8 in-
ches over all
Sewing palm leather
1
Shears 10-inch bent trimmers
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Shoe knife square point . .
1
1
1
1
1
1
Shoe knife broad point
Slicker, steel
1
Stitching clamp
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
21
1
1
1
Stitching horse
i 1
Thimbles, best aluminum, lined steel,
2 sizes
2
1
2
1
2
1
1
21
1
21
1
2
1
Tool claw
Tool bag saddler's
Tool kit cotton duck
1
1
1
1
Tool kit sheepskin .
1
1 Issued to converted 3-inch battery only.
2 Larger size issued.
THE SADDLER.
85
'SdJOQ
renSig <A"uBdraoo qd^jSopj,
«, ^0,0^,0^ ^ * .
•A'u'Bduioo im3 auiqo
«
-•era guiptiptn A"Treduioo
A"iddns pire sj8}JEnbpi38H
1
'XuBduioo trnS atnqoiBj\[
T.uSrg </™°d°u:oo PM
.„ _2,§S,,-,_M_ ,
•uo^uod jo
jaauoid 'XTTBdmoo jaauiSugi
CO<N ^QON^O.ON^NN^ ^ oa
•dooj^
nnS atiiqo'eiii 2urpnp
-m ^ou 'dboj^ sjo^j'eribp'BaH
r - -aa—— - -
•dooaiun39n!,o,K
•dooj; XJJBA^O
OCO CO CO O IM CO CO <£> O CO <O O
•Xjanr^JV m«nmora jo
pu^q SutpnpUT 'sja^j^nb
coco c« cc oc »o <N eo co cq t>. co N 10 'r-t<o «o
•^jani^jy ^m^Il JO '^sjoq
'^A«9q jo ptrcq Suipnpui
sja^j T? n b p B a q ^VusraTSa-ji
T-I COT-I
-x.nnwtinnjox.wa
«OCO C<l 00 CO iO O CO Oi <N O O t» M 1C "** O CO CO
T-I CO rH T-I T-I ^
•^jani^iy osjoq jo Xjaw^g;
COCO CO'Xi-H COO(N<NCO<N C^OOOJiO ROCOCO
'Xjani^iV ^A^aq jo ^ja^^g
.=, «.a.5.a«ggg,a.,,^
'^^idsoq pjag
CO<N rHCOT-lTHCO<NTHTHTHTH^ . . , T-. . .
-g : : :^ : : : : : : : : : : : : :
1
1 : IS^iJJJJdi : : : : : : :
1
1- lllll&ti^lril^
^ ^ S3
THE SADDLER.
•io <N<NOO ^oo-*<
•Xucduioo un8 91/1140
-TSUI Suipnpui 'A'uBduioo
A*iddn's PUB
•Tf Nx*<0»
•A'uBdraoo unS 9mqoi3p{
'd
§
.g
'uojnod jo
•doojj
un3 9uiqoEui Sujpnp
-ui ^ou '
rH IOO»O
un3
8.
"e
§
pn^q Stiipnpoi '
i jo
O-* C<IOO COCOCO
jo Xj
•Ajann-iV ^3Il J0 'Qsjoq
A^aq'io pireq' Suipnioui
D p B o q
0* O<N <£> 00?OQ
C<l if5 O O C<J •* CJ
r-( (N COCO i-H Mi-H
,3
^
9ou«tnqrav
UINIL.
THE SADDLER.
87
C O i— 1 'CO »— 1 rH >^ i-H
O"* rH i-H T-H iH -* lOCO <M
rHOr-t <N ,-H rH T-l r-l <N CO <N i-l I
CO -CO (N -flO CO
«O •<*< 00 CO 1O CO O <O O
O I-HTH^HTHO Oo 1-1
»o •* 10 <o co <N <M cq
8
66^
'S3S-B be*
Ad Fw>^o3C-)/rvc3
^slSs^6§r
.1
^ •« "^iliJfLa'3 "^
^ tiHOO^H rH rH r-i rH (N Tj< •*
88
THE SADDLER.
•sdjoo
1-1
HN
3 -
•Xireduioo un2 auiqo
-•era SinpnpiiT 'A'treduioo
(M
*
~
^
a-«
•A*uBdmoo unS 9inqoi3T/t
<r
,.n8lB <»raoo Pm
S
T-H^H HS
H*
HN
g-a -«-
'uo^iiod jo
J99noid 'Aueduioo jaaujSng
<N
HN
HM
HN
O^CO rH^^,
un8 9UTqouui §urpnp
-TIT 1OU. QOOJ'J SJ9^JBnbpT?9fI
0
1-1
1-4
1-1
0<NOO C*<N<N
•dooji un2 9uiqoBK
<N
HN
Hf» He
, HN
c
c^
o^-ico I-HI-
**»*m>
0
-*1
^
HN
»^QO ^^^
•A\i9iji:py UTEiunora jo
pu^q auipnioin 'sja^Jijnb
-pt39q iB'jnguiTSaj jo Xja^^fi
0
^i-H HC
^ ^H
c
E
00^,0 ^^^
'^Atioq jo pumi Suipnpnr
QCT-"~'^' ^
•*
HNr-l
s
"XjajjT'jjy ^q2iT.jo Xj9^t?g
ro -«.
"Xj9|[j^jy 9«joq jo ^ja'j^c^i
OOOCCCO t-Hr-lT-l
i-HCO
r, «^,
'A*jdTjT!i.jy XAt?9q jo AJQW<BQ
OOCOCO <N
g^s
jo Xinjduioo 9ou^nqTjjy
^ : H« HN
r*>
2^^ '-"-4'-1
S
Ring D:
1 inch diameter (feed bag)
11 inches diameter, with olasn
lirf^f!
•fc-H ft
03 .
*-inch (halter) feet.
Screws, brass, 1-inch, No. 6, gross.
Sheepskins, with wool on
Shields, saddle:
11-inch
HHnch
12-inch
If inches diameter. ..
2 inches diameter (s
Rivets and burs, brass Ib
1-inch, No. 12 poi
i-inch, No. 10
rinch, No. 10
inch, No. 10, o1
ac' T
d 3 |
^ £ "5
•s •§ f
•7 2..-E
^ ss,-1
0 0
tftf
THE SADDLER.
89
e* .
COQO
«30^D
.
(M
""
GENERAL NOTES.
(A) Organizations with authorized increased or decreased strength will be issued supplies in accordance with the above
table, pro rata, for the number of men and animals actually with the organization.
(B) Organizations serving in the Philippines Division, Panama and Hawaiian Islands will be allowed twice the quantities
of material in the above table, and such additional quantities as special conditions render necessary.
(1) This allowance is sufficiently large to permit repairs of equipment for battalion and regimental headquarters not cared
for in battery. If regiment is separated, each battalion and regimental organization receives proportional amounts.
""
<M(N
COCOiO
c^
"
~
""
TJ<
rt^^H
^2^
0
•*
r«
^H^H
r-iir
•* •
.-HINt^
n
**
1-1
1-1 rH
CO
lO CO
•f r^'*
iO
CO
<N
(NCI
1-1
CO 'rH
co coo
CO
"-1
*H
P4«H
CO
CO CO 00
«o
CO ^-Ir-I^H
^HrH
<M
c^oo»c
(N0»0
o
<N f-Hr-li-l rn
1-1 "-1
•*
.-H rH ^ I
-*aoo ^Hooi-c* • !»-<
1-1 TH
CO
<N
»0
do coco
«OOOCO (NQOCOO i-Hi-li-l ^H<NC^
CO
*
^Sco ^S100
"
• i-liO
i: irtirt
rH
I— 1 t— 1
1 1 1 JNI j j j 11 i | i
: ; : .** . ;::;:« • • • e
--i
1 l|
44
ii * s; «|J
l& e la -ll|
Kll,
~ MSOO^-I 5 oj7^c< ® bcWJO,® <u a
1 itftf I § 1*1*83 S^^-Sl IP
-M^a)<»g2Sr3>iS'^0 P^ 2 <^ S -
sBl^^G^l^e^si^^
^00000 WO^p,^ftO^^^^^
§ gg* 5BS
CQ OQOQCC OICO^H
i
P
=
c
s
Thimble, aluminum-lined . .
Thread:
Carpet, No. 18, olive
... T)f
il
£S
*o-
C-31"1
II
II
CO O2
90 THE SADDLER.
The Quartermaster Corps set is as follows:
Saddler's tools, set.
(See PI. XXIV.)
Figure.
Articles.
Number.
Awl, collar, with handle *
Awl, round, with handle *
Blades, awl, 3 each, 6 sizes *. . .
Brush
Can,oil
Chest, tool, saddler's combination.
Chisel, cold, hand
Clamp, stitching
Creaser, iron
Cup, tin, pint
Dividers, pair
File, round (taper, 6-inch)
Hammer, riveting, handled 1
Hammer, shoe, handled
Hammer, tack, handled
Handles, awl
Knife, gauge, 5-inch slide J
Knife,head
Knife, round
Knife, shoe
Nippers, cutting
Pliers, 6-inch, flat nose
I 'unch, revolving, 6-tube 1
Punches, round, Nos. 2 and 9
Rule, 36-inch
Screw driver, 6-inch
Set, rivet 1
Shears, bent, pair
Slicker, glass
Stone, oil
Thimbles
Tickler ;
Tool, claw
Tool, edge, common *
Vise, small
i These articles, when extracted from the set, form the Saddler's Tool Kit and
form a part of Equipment "A" (see preface). The remaining articles are in
Equipment "B."
To each battalion of infantry or squadron of cavalry there is also
issued, by the Quartermaster Department, a harness mender, illus-
trated in Plate XXV, page 92.
THE SADDLER.
91
1
i
>
R
-
THE SADDLER.
1
S
THE SADDLER.
The contents of a harness mender are as follows:
Figure.
Articles.
Number.
1
Beeswax piece
1
2
Blades, awl, harness
3
3
Handle, awl
1
4
Needles, harness (1 paper )
6
5
Punch, rivet No 5
1
6
Rivets and burrs, copper, No. 8 lb..
i
7
Set, rivet
1
8
Thread, shoe . . . ball..
2
9
Drive punch
1
10
Wax, shoe . . ball..
1
Certain repair parts for harness are carried in the escort wagons
and ambulances to which the harness pertains. (See list of wagon
parts and accessaries, p. 66.) In addition to these, the following
allowances of materials for the repair and preservation of harness
are prescribed :
For each double set of quartermaster harness —
1 leather, harness, black, pound.
YQ- rivets and burrs, copper, pound.
2 thread, saddler's, ounces.
2 wax, saddler's, ounces.
The above amounts are prescribed as Equipment "A" (see
Preface). The same amounts are prescribed as Equipment "B."
For every 20 double sets of quartermaster harness —
1 needle, glover, paper.
2 needles, harness, No. 2, papers.
2 needles, harness, No. 3, papers.
2 needles, harness, No. 4, papers.
The above quantities of needles are prescribed as Equipment
" A. "• No additional quantities are prescribed as Equipment " B. "
The following sizes of rivets and thread are required:
Rivets and burrs, copper —
No. 8, 1J inches.!
No. 9, % inch. I The rate of consumption by weight of each
No. 9, 1 inch. • [ of these sizes is ordinarily the same.
No. 12, J inch. J
Thread, saddler's— Nos. 3 and 10, the same amount of each.
In repairing broken parts the methods for single thickness and
double thickness are different. If of single thickness, the two ends
to be joined are shaved down so that when lapped the joint will be
about the same thickness as the strap itself; then sew parallel to
94 THE SADDLER.
the edges — not across, for if you do it will make a weak place in the
leather along the line of stitches. However, a couple of stitches
should be placed at the ends.
If the broken parts consist of two or more thicknesses, such as
traces, shave one end down to a sharp-pointed wedge and the other
end from the center so as to receive the wedge-shaped end, then
sew parallel to the edges and one or two lines of stitches crosswise.
If the part to be repaired is a trace, care must be taken to see that
the distance from buckle holes in the trace, at the hame end, to
the singletree holes is the same as in the good trace. Another
point, do not place the joint so that the singletree hole must be
made through the splice.
In splicing very thick traces it is better to shave down the ends
of the break so as to make the joint about the same thickness as the
trace and simply tack them together and then cover the joint on
each side with a piece of leather of the same width. The ends of
these pieces should be shaved down to a thin edge.
Loops or keepers (for holding the ends of straps) of ten times come
unsewed. If ripped considerably, it is better to repair them by
removing entirely, then sew one end in along the edge on its own
side, after which tuck the other end in and sew it by using sewing
needles as far as practicable and then a brass wire doubled, with
eye at the middle and suitably curved.
To repair a surcingle or girth, tack the edges together and make a
loop just large enough to go around singly. Pin this over the end
of the surcingle and over the joint — laj) of the loop outside — and
sew fairly near the edges (so as to make it smooth) and twice down
the middle.
In using a side or part of a side of leather care should be taken to
cut from the proper part of the side. Remember that the back is
generally the best and the belly and flanks the least desirable,
being looser grained.
In working leather into shapes it will be necessary to soak it (if
black; not if russet, unless it is hard) for about an hour; it should
not be soaked so long that the stuffing (grease) comes .out.
If you need a piece of leather of a certain width and length, cut
that much out and no more; it may leave an odd shape remaining,
but that odd shape may turn out later to be exactly what you need.
In other words, save your leather.
Every harness maker or repairer will find a grained leather finger
stall a necessity. Constant sewing with waxed thread soon wears
the skin from the fingers and makes them very sore.
If a spot does become thin and tender, it can be relieved by taking
a single strand of waxed thread and wrapping close together around
the finger over the spot; this method is much better than court-
plaster and will last much longer.
THE SADDLER. 95
For work around loops and other inaccessible places it will be
found very convenient to use an improvised needle consisting of a
fine brass or copper wire, doubled and slightly twisted, with an eye
left at the middle. This can be bent into almost any shape. The
awl holes should be made large in such cases — it will save time and
trouble.
In stitching be careful that knots are not left where the harness
rubs the animals. A knot is not necessary if a couple of back
stitches are used at the beginning and end of the seam.
It is better to sew than to use rivets, for the rivets make an un-
sightly job and the hole punched for the rivet takes away consider-
able of the leather. For hasty work, however, rivets must be used,
and to rivet well is an art. The proper length rivet should be
chosen ; with the leather held firmly together and the rivet in place
ready to be hammered, the end should not extend more than one-
eighth of an inch above the burr. If longer than this, the end
should be cut off, for, if not, it will be impossible to properly upset
the end, and consequently the rivet shank will bend and make a
very poor joint.
76881° — 15 7
CHAPTER Y.
THE PACKER.
The pack mule is used in our service where rail or wagon transpor-
tation is impracticable, or where peculiar conditions render his use
particularly suitable, such as in mountain field artillery, demolition
packs for cavalry, tool packs for engineers, medical equipment for
sanitary troops attached to organizations, machine guns for infantry
and cavalry, radio outfits of signal corps company, supply trains, and
sanitary trains. The numbers for each for the above purposes are
shown in the Tables of Organization of the Regular Army and in Ta-
bles of Organization of the Organized Militia. The ordnance equip-
ment for each is shown in the several Unit Accountability Manuals
(Ordnance Department). The quartermaster equipment will be
shown in tables of allowances which are expected to be published
shortly (1915).
The following remarks are taken mostly from Engineer Field
Manual, 1907, Part VI (Transportation):
Pack saddles. — The adopted pack saddle is of the Spanish type,
and is commonly called by its Spanish name, "aparejo," Plate
XXVI. Its principal parts are the body, the cover, the cincha,
and the crupper. These parts have subdivisions, which are less
important. The accessories added to the above to make the
aparejo complete are the corona, the blanket, the lash rope (50 feet
long, \ inch diameter) with its cincha, the sling rope (about 30 feet
long, f inch diameter), the two lair ropes (about 30 feet long, £ inch
diameter with loop or eye at one end), and the two mantas or pack
Aparejo, proper:
I. Body of aparejo.
II. Aparejo cover (permanently attached to the body).
III. Cincha.
IV. Crupper.
V. Corona.
Accessories:
VI. Lash rope with cincha.
VII. Sling rope.
VIII. Lair ropes (two).
IX. Mantas (pack covers), two.
X. Blanket.
Carried by packer:
XI. Blind (one every 10 pack mules, or fraction).
THE PACKER.
97
98 THE PACKER.
The body of the aparejo consists of 2 pieces of heavy leather 24
inches wide by 58, 60, or 62 inches long, sewed together at the edges
and across the middle of the length, forming 2 pouches, into which
moss or hay is stuffed to form pads fitting the contour of the animal
on either side of the backbone.
In the American form the pads are given a peculiar elastic stiff-
ness by means of ribs of wood or metal extending from a saddle
piece at the top of each pouch to a boot piece at the bottom. These
ribs are stiffer at the front and more flexible at the back, varying
uniformly between. They convert each pad into an elastic lever,
by which the pull of the cincha on the bottom acts to raise the
aparejo and its load from the backbone, while the stuffing distri-
butes the load uniformly over a large space on the ribs. The
stuffing is introduced through a handhole in the middle of the
underside of each pad, through which it is always accessible, and
the finest art of the packer consists in fitting the pads to the shape
of the particular animal which is to carry the aparejo, and keeping
them so regardless of changes in the animal's condition by shifting,
removing, or renewing the stuffing. If a bunch rises on the animal
it can be worked down by taking out stuffing immediately over it
so as to take off the pressure at that point. Determine the proper
point by wetting the top of the bunch and laying the aparejo on
the mule. Aparejos and mules are numbered and the same pack
is always on the same mule.
The function of the crupper is not what would naturally be
expected. If the aparejo is properly set up and fitted there will
be no tendency to move back or forward. The crupper is, in
reality, a steadying lever to keep the aparejo from rocking fore and
aft as the mule travels. For this purpose the dock piece is large,
smooth, and soft, and the crupper is wide2 stiff, and firmly laced
to the body. The crupper is adjustable in length, and must be
accurately fitted, so that when the aparejo is in its proper place
the dock piece will ride between tail and dock without pressing
on either.
The cincha is of heavy canvas, doubled, and 10 inches wide.
It is long enough to reach from the near boot under the mule and
around the aparejo to a little beyond the middle. The ends are
connected by the latigo, or cincha strap.
The corona is a pad usually of several thicknesses ^ of blanket,
with a number or design which identifies the pack. It is important
that the corona shall not be separated from its aparejo.
Off the mules the aparejos are placed in a row on the ground or
on skids, standing on their boots. The cincha, folded with the
" latigo " or cinch strap (n, PI. XXVI) inside, rests on the aparejo.
The crupper is turned so that the dock piece rests on the cincha.
The corona is placed on top of all. Canvas covers are stretched
THE PACKER.
99
PLATE
PLATE XX Vila.
PLATE XXVIIb.
100
THE PACKER.
PLATE XXVIIc.
PLATE XXVIId.
PLATE XX Vile.
THE PACKER. 101
over the line of aparejos and tied down. The line of aparejos so
arranged is usually referred to as the rigging.
Each packer is provided with a blind — one for every 10 pack
mules or fraction of 10. The mules are trained to stand perfectly
still when blinded, and if it is necessary to move a mule even by
a step the blind should be lifted.
To place the aparejo on the mule the corona is first put smoothly
followed by the blanket folded to six thicknesses. The aparejo
on
is then put on slightly in rear of its place. The crupper is turned,
the dock piece adjusted, the aparejo settled to its place, and the
cincha unfolded, placed, and tightened. Never put on or adjust
a pack with the mule's head uphill.
Loads are divided into side packs and top packs. Side packs
should be of approximately equal weight and size. A keg of paint
on one side and an equal weight of oakum on the other do not
make a proper load. Side packs should not be longer than 30
inches, wider than 20 inches, nor deeper than 12 inches. If the
side packs do not fill out a load the rest is placed between them
as a top pack. Articles which by their size or shape are not suit-
able for side packs are carried on top. The center of gravity of
the entire load should be below the top of the saddle, and the lower
the better. For miscellaneous cargoes the freight is made up into
side and top ;packs, each wrapped in a manta, or canvas cover,
and tied, or laired up with lair ropes. If a pack contains articles
of different weights, place the heaviest at the bottom. The side
packs are slung across the aparejo by the sling ropes and lashed on
with the lash rope and cincha in the form of the diamond hitch.
Such a load must remain unbroken until the end of the march.
The load is lashed on with the lash rope and cincha by what is
known as the " diamond hitch;" the method is explained in
Cavalry Drill Regulations. (See PI. XXVII.)
Care and preservation. — All parts of the rigging should be kept
clean and the leather parts soft and pliable. The materials and
methods given for harness may be adapted.
In taking off lashed packs, the lash rope is removed; its cincha
laid on the ground at the middle of the line to be occupied. The
lash rope is coiled down on the cincha and its end stretched out 10
feet to one side. The sling rope is then unfastened, the packs
dropped from the aparejo and laid on the lash rope lengthwise with
the cincha. The sling rope is coiled on the packs, and the end of
the lash rope brought up on top. The cincha of the second pack is
laid down on one side of the first and parallel to it at 2 feet distance,
but with the end of the lash rope on the opposite side. The packs,
etc., are placed on it as described. The third pack is placed on
the other side of the middle one, and so on until all are down in a
Jine. After all cargoes are off the aparejos are removed. Cargoes
102
THE
are also covered with pieces of canvas called cargo covers. Mantas
may be used if there are spare ones.
For details as to pack transportation, see "Pack Transportation,"
by Daly, 1910, a Government publication (War Department, Doc-
ument No. 360). For explanation of the knots and hitches see
"Cavalry Drill Regulations," paragraphs 1010 to 1017.
For repairing packs and shoeing pack animals of an organization
the ordnance outfits issued to organizations are used; for pack
trains (part of the supply quartermaster service) this type of equip-
ment consists of the blacksmith's kit and cargador's kit.
THE PACKER. 103
The blacksmith's kit consists of the following articles:
1 anvil, field, packer's.
1 cutter, clinch.
1 hammer, hand.
1 hammer, shoeing.
1 iron, clinch.
2 knives, horseshoe, 3J-inch blades.
1 pinchers.
1 pritchel.
2 rasps, 16-inch.
To make the field anvil, take a piece of flat iron about 18 inches
long, 3 inches wide, and J inch thick; shape this into a triangle
about 5 inches on the side and weld together.
A pack train cargador's kit consists of the following articles:
12 blades, awl, assorted sizes.
1 cutter, rivet.
1 hammer, riveting.
3 handles, awl.
1 knife, gauge.
1 knife, half-round.
2 needles, Nos. 2 and 4, papers.
6 needles, sailmaker's assorted sizes.
1 oilstone, small.
1 palm, sailmaker's.
3 punches, hand, size f , J, and J inch.
1 punch, spring.
1 set, rivet.
1 shears, tailor's, 6-inch blade.
1 tool, edge.
Ten days' supply of materials, as listed below, required for re-
pairs of the complete equipment of 50 pack animals, forms a part
of the cargador's kit, viz:
6 buckles, halter, 1J inch.
4 canvas, 28 inch, No. 10, yards.
6 leather, bridle (or harness), fair, pounds.
6 leather, latigo, fair, pounds.
1 pack cover.
6 rings, halter, If inch.
J rivets and burrs, size f , No. 8, pounds.
250 rope, f-inch, feet.
200 rope, J-inch, feet.
6 snaps, halter, trigger, size 1J.
3 thread, harness, No. 10, ounces.
1 twine, sailmaker's, ball.
3 wax saddler's, ounces.
CHAPTER VI.
HORSESHOER.
Horseshoer's chevron.
Those whose primary duty is the shoeing of animals should fa-
miliarize themselves with the manual "The Army Horseshoer,"
prepared at the Mounted Service School, Fort Riley, Kans. (War
Department Document No. 356), which treats the subject thor-
oughly. However, the trooper, teamster, or the packer may be
callea upon to tighten, remove, or to replace shoes or even to
adopt temporary expedients for shoes when shoes themselves are
not to be gotten.
As long as an animal has energy (which he accumulates by the
fuel^taken into his stomach in the shape of forage), he can render
service if his feet are in condition to carry him; even though he
has a sore back (if a mount) or sore shoulders (if a draft animal),
he can still — though with pain — do his work. But with lameness
in his feet, he can neither carry himself nor his load — on the other
hand, he is a burden because he must be cared for.
A driver or mounted man should see that any shoe lost or worn
out is replaced, or, if a shoe be loose, that it is tightened at the
earliest practicable opportunity.
If the use of the horse and the mule were confined to the soft
fields, there would be no necessity for protecting the hoof, but on
improved roads, which are a necessity due to the heavy volume
of traffic, the hoof will wear away much more than nature can
replace. Rough ground also causes the horn to break away.
Horseshoes and mule shoes are therefore a necessity in the military
service.
The idea of the shoe is to protect the wall of the hoof, but this
must be done without interference with the growth of any part of
the foot or with the proper functioning of the various parts of the
HOKSESHOER. 105
foot. When the animal puts his foot on the ground there is a down-
ward movement of all the inside portion of the foot with reference
to the ouside covering or wall and the hard sole or bottom of the
foot. The frog in the horse corresponds to the heel of the man
and it is just as important. Any shoeing which does not permit
of the frog's touching the ground is defective; however, this is
not to be construed as meaning that horses which have been shod
otherwise so long as to dry up the frog or whose feet are otherwise de-
fective should have the horn and sole cut down so much as to bring
pressure on the sensitive parts of the foot. The frog can be built
up again by putting it to use again; that is, by using a leather pad
of sufficient thickness to bring pressure on the frog when the
foot is planted. If at any time the sole will give under heavy
pressure of the thumbs, the sole is too thin.
Tools for shoeing animals are issued by both the Ordnance De-
partment and the Quartermaster's Department.
For winter use or when necessary and when calked shoes are not
issued, toe calks are supplied at the rate of one (J pound) per shoe.
The allowance of smithing coal is, for each 100 animals, 30 pounds
in Equipment A, 60 pounds in Equipment B. (See Preface.)
Animals should be shod at least once a month. The animals'
feet should be inspected carefully and cleaned out at least twice
a day. If an animal goes lame suddenly on the march, look over
his feet and see whether he has gotten a stone wedged somewhere
about the hoof. It is remarkable how careless the average man is
with reference to this — probably the most important — part of the
animal.
The Ordnance Department tools and issues (see PL XXIX,
XXIXa, XXIXb, and XXX) are as follows.
IDS
HORSESHOER.
PLATE XXIX.
HORSESHOER.
107
PLATE XXIXa.
108
HORSESHOER.
45
PLATE XXIXb.
HORSESHOER.
109
PLATE XXX.
110
HORSESHOER.
Blacksmith's tools.
s
Article.
Number issued to 1—
I
g
J
P
5
|
C3
M
Battery or regimental headquar
ters including band of moun-
tain artillery.
Cavalry troop.
Engineer company, pioneer.
.&
CO
r>>
a
c8
&
B .
8&
fi 0
£2
&2
a> ^
3
%
^
3
in
Machine-gun troop or headquar-
ters troop.
Regimental headquarters includ-
ing band of heavy horse or light
artillery.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
IS
ig
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
f Anvil, 17.5 pounds
1
1
1
\Anvil, 34 pounds
1
1
1
i
i
Apron, blacksmith's
2
Bag, canvas, for nails
Anvil, 100 pounds
1
Box, shoeing, leather
1
....
1
1
1
i
Chisel,handled,forcoldiron,lpound,6ounces
Chisel, cold, 8-inch
1
i
1
1
Chisel, handled, for cold iron, 2 pounds
1
Chisel, handled, for hot iron, 1.5 pounds. .
1
Clinch cutter
1
1
1
1
!
1
i
i
1
1
1
1
Clinching iron
1
Greaser, steel handled
Chest for tools
1
1
Drills, flat
6
1
i 0
iG
16
(File, flat, 12-inch bastard
<Filc, 12-inch, flat, second cut. .
1
1
1
1
!
1
1
1
[File, 8-inch, three-square taper
1
1
Fire rake
1
1
1
Fire shovel..
1
Flatter, handled, 1 5-inch square face
Fore punch and creaser, double headed
1
Forge, portable
1
Forge and bellows
1
1
1
1
1
Hammer, hand, 2 pounds
1
1
Hammer, riveting, 1 pound*2 ounces
1
Hammer,rounding, 14-inch handle, 2 pounds
Hammer, shoeing, 10 ounces
....
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Handle, file, aluminum
Handle spare for cold chisel
2
2
9
(Hardie, .75 square shank, 1 25 bit
1
< Hardie, 5 square shank 15 bit
1
1
1
Hardie, .562 (•&) square shank, 1 bit
1
1
Hoof and cutting nippers
1
1
Hoofparer 12-inch
....
1
1
1
Oiler...
1 For use in garrisen only.
HORSESHOER.
Blacksmith's tools — -Continued.
Ill
fj
.1
£
Article.
Number issued to 1 —
!
8
oT
1
-— >.
!'!
o
i
i
Batteiy or regimental headquar-
ters including band of moun-
tain artillery.
| Cavalry troop.
"E
£
i
A
i
8
1
&
03
£
O CO
So 2
0) H
0
•a
3
5
Machine-gun troop or headquar-
ters troop.
Regimental headquarters includ-
ing band of heavy horse or light
artillery.
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
30
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
40
47
(Pritchel, 75 flats, 9-inch
1
1
1
( Pritchel 562 (A, ) flats 9-inch
1
1
Punch, round, 375-inch
i
Punch round 312 (A,) inch
1
1* Punch, nail
i
1
i
1
1
Punch, square
i
i
1 1
ii
l 1
Rivet sets, sizes . 187 (A), .25, .375, .5, and
625
5
Rule, boxwood, 2-foot, 4-fold ... .
1
Screw plate, taps and dies, with tap wrench,
in chest
1
Shoeing knife
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
2 1
i
i
i
i
1
1
1
1
Shoeing pincers 12 inches
Shoeing rasp, 16-inch
i
i
1
1
21
1
21
Sledge, 11 pounds
Square
1
Schaller forge
1
1
i
i
1
Schaller forge tool chest
1
Toe knife
1
i
1
1
1
1
fTongs, horseshoer's, 1 5 pounds, 12-inch
1
1
\Tongs, horseshoer's 18 5 ounces
1
i
1
/Tongs, for .25 iron
1
\Tongs, for 5 iron
1
Tool kit, small
i
i
....
1
.1
Tool kit, for Schaller forge
1
{Vise.. .
3 1
Vise, modified to fit battery wagon.
<1
i
Vise, 2.5 jaws.
1
1
i
i
1
Whetstone, farrier's, 10-inch
1
1
1
Wrench, forge ... .
fWrench, screw, 12-inch
1
\Wrench, screw, 8-inch.
1
i
.... i
1 For use in garrison only.
2 Ordered with pack outfit.
3 Ordered with battery wagon for light or horse battery only.
4 Ordered with battery wagon for heavy battery only.
76881° — 15
8
112 HORSESHOER.
The field outfit issued to the Cavalry by the Ordnance Depart-
ment is designed especially for portability, and is packed in two
chests.
Chest No. 1 (22 by 18 by 13 inches) contains a small knockdown
forge with fan and drivewheel and a complete set of forge and
shoeing tools. Weight of chest, packed, 122 pounds.
Chest No. 2 (21 by 17 by 10 inches) contains a small anvil and
block, water bucket, leather shoeing box, and apron. Weight of
chest, packed, 68 pounds.
The field anvil weighs 17 pounds.
Description and uses of the tools (from "Army Horseshoer") are
as follows (see PI. XXIX to XXX, pp. 106-109):
The clinch cutter (fig. 8) consists of two parts — the blade and
the point. The blade is used to cut or to raise the clinches, being
placed under the edge of the clinch and struck with the driving
hammer. The point is used to punch nails and stubs out of the
hoof. It is often placed in the crease of the shoe, under the head
of the nail to be withdrawn, and struck smartly with the hammer.
The blow raises the nail sufficiently to enable the pincers to grasp
the nail head.
The pincers (fig. 35) are used to remove shoes and to draw nail
stubs and improperly driven nails.
The driving hammer (shoeing hammer) (fig. 21) should be used
only to drive horseshoe nails, to wring off nails after they have been
properly driven, and to make clinches.
The nippers (fig. 25) are used to remove the surplus growth of
wall.
The shoeing knife (fig. 34) is used to pare away the dead horn
near the white line; to remove loose particles from the hoof; to
relieve pressure on corns and cracks; and to open the sole and wall
for the escape of pus or for the removal of foreign bodies.
The horseshoers' rasp (fig. 36) is used to prepare a level bearing
surface of the foot, to remove extra length of toe, to smooth the
edges of the wall, to even clinches, to make a slight groove under
each clinch, and to run lightly over the clincers in order to smooth
thern.
The hammers, hand and rounding (figs. 18 and 20) are used in fit-
ting and in turning shoes.
The clinching iron (fig. 9) is used to turn the clinches.
The tongs (fig. 41) are used in handling hot metals.
The pritchel (fig. 28) is made by hand from round or octagonal
steel, and is used for opening the nail holes in horseshoes. The
point is shaped the same as the shank of a nail near the head, so
that the hole punched in the shoe will fit the nail snugly and not
allow much motion. Examine the nail carefully and learn the exact
size for the pritchel. To draw out the point of the pritchel, heat
it to a cherry red and, placing the pointed end flat on the face of
HORSESHOER. 113
the anvil near the far edge, strike with the hammer held at an
angle to properly change the upper face, turning it as necessary
so that the finished point will be of the shape desired. Never heat
the pritchel beyond a cherry red; cool it gradually by placing it
in the coal at the edge of the forge and never in the water. The
face of the horseshoers' anvil should have a round edge near the
base of the horn on the far side. This edge is used for sharpening
tools.
Hardies (fig. 24) are used to cut hot metals. Their principal use
for horseshoers is in cutting off the heels of shoes, and for this
purpose a sharp cutting edge is required. When the hardy becomes
dull, the edge is drawn out on the face of the anvil in the same
manner as the pritchel. A sharp edge is then put on by hot
rasping, using the smooth side of the rasp. After sharpening, the
cutting edge should be tempered as follows: Heat the whole hardy
slowly to a cherry red; hold the cutting edge under water so that
about one-half inch of the blade is immersed, and, when there is
no longer any sizzling, plunge the whole hardy under water and
remove it at once ; now carefully observe the change in color as the
remaining heat in the body extends back to the edge; the color
will be first straw, then copper, and finally blue; as soon as the
blue color has reached the cutting edge, place the whole hardy
under water and leave it there until thoroughly cooled.
The creaser (fig. 10) is used to crease the shoes and to repair dam-
aged creases.
Horseshoe nails retain the shoe on the foot. These nails (fur-
nished in several sizes) are machine made and pointed; they are
slightly concave on one side and flat on the other. In driving the
nail into the hoof the flat side is held faced outward.
The anvil. — The working parts of the anvil are the horn, the face,
and the heel.
The face, or the upper plane surface, is of steel, and is welded to
the iron body. The anvil is firmly fastened to a wooden block,
which is sunk into the ground to a depth that will bring the surface
of the face at a convenient working height above the ground — from
30 to 36 inches.
The horn is used to open and to shape shoes, the face to level the
web and for welding, and the heel to straighten heels of shoes and
to turn calks. Clips are ordinarily drawn on the edge of the face,
but in the anvil shown there is an attachment near the base of the
horn which is used for this purpose. The square hole in the face
(hardy hole) is a socket for hardies; the round hole (pritchel hole)
permits the passage of the pritchel through the nail hole of the
shoe.
Plate XXX shows a section of a portable forge. In every forge
air is forced through the fire by a bellows or a fan (F); the latter is
114
HORSESHOER.
made to revolve by a drive wheel or by a handle (H). The twyer
ball (T) corresponds to the grate of a stove. Firmly attached to it
and extending toward the worker is an iron rod by which the ball
may be rocked. The end of this rod is shown by the small circle
in the center of the twyer ball. A crater (C) should be made around
the twyer ball in order to confine the fire. Clay may be used for
this purpose, but cement is better.
The quartermaster set of farrier's and blacksmith's tools issued
to each regiment, wagon company, ambulance company, engineer
train, engineer battalion, and signal corps battalion (organizations
having a large number of wagons) consists of the following articles
(contained in a substantial wooden chest) (see PI. XXXI):
Figure.
Article.
1 Anvil, small 1
2 Apron, leather 1
3 Chisels, cold handled
4 Chisel, hot, handled »
5 Chisel, cold, hand 1
6 Clinch cutter (buffer)i
7 Clinch iron 1
8 Dividers, wing
9 File, flat, bastard, 12-inch
10 Hammer, ball pein, with handle »
11 Hammer, riveting, handled
12 Hammer, shoeing »
13 Hammer, sledge, handled
14 Hardie »
15 Knife, farrier 1
16 Nippers, cutting l
17 Nippers, hoof-paring
18 Pinchers, farrier 1
19 Pritchel »
20 Punches, hand, round l (2 in kit)
21 Rasps, 16-inch i
22 Set stocks and dies, i to 1 J inches
23 Tong, shoeing 1
24 Tongs, large l ,
25 Vise, small
26 Wrenches, monkey, 18-inch and 12-inch..
27 Wrench, "S"
Number.
1 These articles, when extracted from the set. form the Kit of Farrier's and
Blacksmith's Tools and form a part of Equipment "A." The remaining articles
are in Equipment "B."
To each infantry regiment there are issued two Horseshoer 's Emer-
gency Equipments (see PI. VIII, p. 41), one for shoeing animals
with the column on the march and one for shoeing animals with
the field trains. The outfits are carried by the horseshoer or acting
horseshoer. (Seep. 38.)
HORSESHOER.
115
116 HORSESHOER.
Two sets of shoes, one set on the feet and the other already fitted
(and 8 horseshoe nails per shoe), for each animal are a part of the
equipment of an escort wagon. Each mounted man carries one
fitted fore shoe and one fitted hind shoe and 16 horseshoe nails as
part of his equipment. All shoeing materials (coal, fitted shoes,
extra nails, etc.) for animals provided with store wagons or store
pack mules are carried in the combat train.
It is difficult to keep the horseshoer or blacksmith from using the
fitted shoes carried on the mount or in the vehicle. These should
be used only on the march. The teamster or the mounted man
should resist any attempt to use these shoes at any other time, and
if it is necessary to use them he should replace them at the very
earliest opportunity.
Horseshoes for the ordinary mount run about No. 3 or No. 4; they
require No. 6 horseshoe nails, or, for horses hard on shoes, No. 7.
Draft horses use as high as No. 7 shoes and require No. 8 nails.
Mules ordinarily use No. 2 or No. 3 (mostly the latter) mule shoes.
They require No. 6 horseshoe nails. There are 100 pounds of shoes
in a keg and a keg contains 85 No. 3 mule shoes or 100 No. 2 mule
shoes. Horseshoe nails run about 120 to the pound.
There are four nail holes on each side of the shoe, but ordinarily
only the three front ones are driven on the outside and the two front
ones on the inside for riding horses, and four and three, respectively,
on draft horses. The number depends, however, on how severe the
animal is on shoes. Horseshoe nails are curved on one side and
are straight on the other; the nail is driven with the straight side
toward the outer edge of the hoof.
In preparing the hoof for shoeing and in nailing the shoe on, the
structure of the foot should be borne in mind. Attention is drawn
to the accompanying cuts of the foot (PL XXXII) and of the hoof
(PI. XXXIII). The membranes and tissuesof the foot are probably
more tender, or, being so closely confined, require more delicate
treatment than those of any other part of the body. On the other
hand, they are subjected to the most pounding and often they re-
ceive the least care. Men who would be very careful of the founda-
tion of a house are most neglectful when it comes to the foundation
of the horse. The hoofs of the horse and mule correspond closely
to the nails on the fingers or the toes; think of how very painful
any injury to the nail is and it can be appreciated how tenderly
the hoofs should be treated.
First shape the hoof so that when viewed from the front and from
the side, the axis of the pastern (that is, between the ankle and the
hoof) and the center line of the hoof are parallel. In removing the
wall, begin at the toe. When the proper position has been obtained,
the edge of the hoof should be rasped off very slightly — just enough to
take off the sharp edge. Then the shoe should be fitted to this
HORSESHOER.
117
118
HORSESHOER.
shape — do not ever shape the hoof to the shoe; if in circumstances
where reshaping of the shoe is impossible, it is better to tack the
shoe on as nearly symmetrical as practicable and have the work
properly done at the first opportunity.
In preparing the feet for the shoe, no cutting whatever, with a
knife, is permitted except slightly at the toe to make a seat for the
toe clip, when such is used.
It is safer never to apply a hot shoe to the hoof, but, if at all, then
only for an instant to see whether the hoof is level.
I' i. ATI: XX XIII. —Horse's hoof.
1. Frog.
2. Bar.
3. Cleft of frog.
4. Sole.
5. White line.
6. Wall.
In removing surplus growth of the wall (the only part which
should be touched at all with a cutting tool), use the cutting
pincers or the rasp. It is dangerous to use a knife, because the
pressure required to cut is so great that the shoer may cut into the
sensitive parts before he knows it.
A. large percentage of animals have dry hoofs and, as a result,
contracted heels. Contracted heels are caused also by faulty
shoeing, by putting nails in the hoof back of the middle half, by
cutting away the bars, by ' ' opening the heels, " or by giving an
inclination inward to the upper surface of the heels of the shoes.
HORSESHOER. 119
The hoofs should be softened (see Dry Hoofs, p. 50), shoes be nailed
on properly, and shoes so shaped as to spread the hoof at the heels
by giving the upper surface of the heels of the shoe a slight inclina-
tion downward toward the outer edges.
Interfering may be either the striking of the inside of the fetlocks
by the hoof of the foot alongside or by striking the fore shoe, hoof, or
quarter (just above the hoof), by the hoofs of the hind feet (called
' ' forging " ) . The fault is caused principally by faulty shoeing or by
weakness or fatigue of the animal. If due to weakness, of course the
animal should be built up. If the fault is detected shortly after
shoeing, an inspection should be made to ascertain whether the
shoe protrudes beyond the hoof, and the clinches smoothed off.
The striking portion may be detected by chalking the part which
is struck, trotting the horse off; when the hoof strikes, the chalk
will rub off onto the hoof.
Sometimes the outer bar of the shoe is weighted (by making it
broader) and this causes the foot to be carried wide in planting.
Forging can sometimes be remedied by rolling the toe, that is
shaping it much the same as it becomes after considerable wear;
this causes the back of the hoof to turn up quicker than it would
ordinarily, and thus clears the hind hoof as it moves forward.
Ankle boots, of leather, for interfering at the fetlocks and quarter
boots for forging are the last resorts if strengthening physically and
shoeing properly do not remedy the faults.
The heels of the shoe should not extend beyond the heels of the
hoof. At the heels the shoe is allowed to extend outside the outer
edge of the wall about J of an inch. The shoes as issued have nail
holes too small; these should be opened to receive the nail heads.
With the foot shaped and the shoe fitted to the proper shape, the
nails are next driven. Be very careful in driving the first nail.
It is a fine piece of work to place the shoe exactly in its proper
position. When in position, drive the first nail (second from the
front — exactly in the middle of the hole) just far enough so it will
hold ; then look again to see if the shoe sits right, and if so, drive the
nail home. Afteranail nasbeen driven, the shoe should notbe ham-
mered sidewise because that will only loosen the nails by enlarging
the nail holes and the shoe will always be loose, and before long the
job must be done again. After the tacking on into proper position
has been accomplished, the nail on the opposite side is then driven.
The others are then driven in order — usually alternating sides.
Each nail as it is driven is bent back at right angles to the hoof and
the point is twisted off with the claw of the hammer.
When all the nails have been driven, the foot is raised and a piece
of iron (usually the pinchers) with a right-angled shoulder is held
against the wall and against the end of each nail, and the nail ham-
mered on the head. Then the foot is carried forward and rested on
120 HORSESHOES,.
the knee; a slight groove is rasped under the ends of the nails and
they are clinched in succession, the pinchers or iron being held
on the head of the nail as it is being clinched. When clinched,
the ends are rasped slightly to make them smooth.
No nails should be driven back of the line where the hoof starts to
curve in; that is, where the "quarter" begins, or, in other words,
in the back half of the hoof. To do so prevents the natural ex-
pansion and growth of the foot.
Nails should not be driven inside the "white line, " because this
marks the boundary of sensitive portion of the foot. The shoe
should not press against the sole at any point; this will not occur
if the top surface of the shoe is made level. In driving horseshoe
nails be sure, by the time they have gone into the hoof £ of an
inch, that they are going with considerable resistance, which shows
that they are penetrating horn and not the "quick" or an old nail
hole.
Horses or mules upon which it is difficult to keep shoes, are com-
monly shod with a clip on the toe of the shoe. In order to prevent
the shoe's sticking out in front, due to the clip, a seat is cut in the
wall at the toe just large enough to contain the clip. To do this,
the foot is raised and the shoe held in its proper position, clip
resting against the toe of the hoof, and the position of the clip is
marked on the wall with the knife. The wall is then very carefully
whittled away, little by little, to make a proper seat. If too much
be cut away, the value of the clip is lost.
If a shoe becomes loose slightly, it can be tightened by reclinch-
ing the ends of the nails, as explained above. If the shoe becomes
very loose, such clinching- will probably do little good, for the holes
are worn large. In this case the shoe should be reset, but if this
be not practicable for the time, two (one on each side) or more nails
may be removed and new nails driven at slightly different angle.
In removing a nail, the clinched end should be cut off before the
nail is pulled through the hoof. The clinch cutter in the black-
smith outfit is ordinarily used for this purpose, but a cold chisel or
any blunt sharpened edge will do. After the clinch is cut off
the nail may be driven part or all the way out by using another
nail, but very carefully.
If necessary to remove a shoe which is almost off — hanging by one
or two nails at one side only — care must be taken not to bend it
off over the edge of the hoof, for that will almost certainly break
away all the wall between the clinched end and the bottom.
Instead, raise the shoe as far as practicable without forcing the
nails and place a piece of iron or wood between bottom of the hoof
and the shoe and pry the tight part of the shoe up. It should not
be necessary to do this, however, if the clinched end be straight-
ened or removed before attempting to remove the shoe.
INDEX.
Page.
Abscess 52
"A" equipment 7
Allowances:
Accessories, escort wagon 66, 67
Coal, smithing 105
Forage '. 22
Grain 22
Grease, axle 67, 68
Hay 22
Medicines 33, 36, 43, 45
Nails, horseshoe. 67, 116
Picket line : 12
Saddlers, materials, ordnance 85
Saddlers, materials, quartermaster 93, 103
Shoes, horse and mule 67
Soap, harness 66, 67
Water 23
Weight on escort wagon 21, 58
Aparejo 96
Apothecaries measure 31
' 'Army six' ' wagon 58
Baggage section 8
Bags, saddle, veterinarians 34
Balking 17, 18
Barley ... 22
"B" equipment 7
Bites 53
Biting 16
Bitting 19
Blacksmith tools 106, 114
Blacksmith and farrier's kit 103, 114
Bleeding 54
Boils, collar 55
' 'Breaking' ' horses 17
Bridle, rope 12
Bruises 55
Bushel, weights, grain, per 30
Calk, toe, shoe 105, 120
Canker : 51
Carbolic acid 33
121
122 INDEX.
Care of — Page.
Animals 10
Aparejo 101
Harness 79
Wagons 68
Cargador's kit 103
Catarrh 46
' 'C' ' equipment 7
Checkrein 19
Chests, veterinary 's field 34
Chevrons:
Farrier's 25
Horseshoer 104
Saddler 75
Wagoner 57
Cincha 98
Cleanliness , 10, 12, 74, 79, 101
Cleaning —
Aparejo 101
Harness 74, 79
Wounds 54
Clips, shoe 120
Coal, smithing 105
Colds... 46
Colic mixture 45
Collar boils 74
Collar pads necessary 74, 78
Combat train 8
Containers, amounts in 31
Contracted heels 51
Corn, ration , 22
Corona 96
Corrosive sublimate 24, 33
Cribbing 15
Decimal system . . 30
Destroying animals 33
Detection of disease 26
Diarrhea . . 47
Diseases, external 49
Diseases, internal - 45, 46
Disinfectants 33
Distance, table of 32
Drowning, rescuing from . . 57
Dry hoofs 50
Dry measure
Duties of teamster 57, 74
INDEX. 123
Page.
Eczema 53
Equipment "A" 7
Equipment " B " 7
Equipment " C " 7
Equipment, escort wagon 58
Equipment, farrier's 33, 38, 114
Equipment, harness 75
Equipment, horseshoer's emergency 38
Equipment, mounted 75
Equipment, veterinarian's 34
Excessive urinating 48
Eyes, sore 52
Farrier Chapter II
Chevrons 25
Duties 25-56
Field equipment 38
General instructions 25
Medicines, list of, for 33, 43
Feed, kinds 22
Feed, weights 30
Feed, to tell good 22
Fever mixture 45
Field equipment, farrier's 38
Field equipment, veterinarian's 34
Field service 7
Field training 7
Fitting harness 78
Forage 21
Fording 57
Founder * 24, 50
Four-mule harness 76, 77
Four-mule team 59
Frequency of shoeing 105
Fright, to cure 10
Galls, saddle or collar 55
General instruction:
Farrier 25
Horseshoer 104
Regarding animals 10
Saddler 75
Teamster or wagoner 74
Giving medicines 43
Glanders 25
Grain, feeding 22
Grain , ration 22
124 INDEX.
Page.
Grain, to tell good : 22
Grain, weights 30
Grease, axle 66, 68
Grooming 20
Halter, rope 12
Harness:
Fitting 78
Four-mule 66
Lead 75
Mender 93
Repairing 80
Six-mule 62, 75
Wheel 75
Healing, first intention 54
Healing, granulation 54
Heat, as disinfectant 33
Heat, exhaustion 48
Hobbling 16
Hoof, dry 50
Hoof, puncture 49
Horseshoeing Chapter VI
Horseshoer, the Army 104
Horseshoer, chevron 104
Horseshoer, emergency equipment 38
Horseshoer's allowances 105
Horseshoes, kinds 116
Horseshoe nails 116
Influenza 46
Injuries 53
Inspection, animals 25
Inspection, feed 21
Inspection, harness 74
Inspection, wagons 74
Instructions, general 10
Instructions, farrier 25
Instructions, teamster 57, 74
Instruments, farrier's
Instruments, veterinary 34
Instruments, uses 42
Interfering 56, 119
Iodine 45, 56
Jack, wagon 68
Kicking animals 15, 16, 17, 19
Kicks, treatment 55
Killing animals
INDEX. 125
Page.
Kindness 10, 14, 26, 28
Kit, blacksmith's 103, 114
Kit, cargador's 103
Kit, carpenter's and wheelwright's 69
Kit, saddler's 90
Lameness 49
Lashing, rope , 96
Lashing packs 101
Lead bars 58
Lead harness
Length, tables of 32
Lice 53
Lime 24
Line, picket 12
Mange 53
Manure, disposal of 24
Materials, repair, ordnance 85
Materials, repair, quartermaster 93
Measures, tables of 32
Medicines, allowances 36, 45
Medicines for farrier's use 33, 43
Medicines for veterinarian's use 33
Medicines, table of 32, 45
Mercury bichloride 33, 36
Nails, horseshoe, allowance 67, 116
Nails, horseshoe, kinds 116
"Near" and "Off," definition 17,20
Neat's-foot oil 66
Oats 30, 22
Oil, neat's-foot 66, 80
Ordnance, blacksmith's tools 105
Ordnance, carpenter's tools 69
Ordnance, farrier's tools 105
Ordnance, repair materials 85
Ordnance, saddler's tools 83
Outfit, packing 96
Packing Chapter V
Paint
Pannier 34
Pawing 15
Picket line 12
Pneumonia 46
Pocket case, farrier's instrument 38, 40, 42
Pocket case, veterinarian's instrument 34, 35
Pulling back 16
126 INDEX.
Page.
Punctures, hoof 49
Quartermaster Department:
Carpenter and wheelwright tools 69
Carpenter and wheelwright kits 69
Farrier's tools 114
Harness mender 93
Horseshoer tools 38, 105, 114
Saddler's kit 90
Saddler's tools 83, 90
Table of allowances 33
Transportation, kinds 8, 21, 58
Ration, forage 22
Ration section 8
Rearing 18
Rein check 19
Removing shoes 120
Repairs, harness 80, 93, 103
Repairs, materials 80, 93, 103
Restraining animals 28
Retention of urine 48
Rivets, allowance 93
Riveting 95
Rope bridle 12
Rope burns 12, 56
Rope halter 12
Rope, lair 96
Rope, lash 96
Rope, lashing 96
Routine duties of teamster 74
Runaways 19
Saddle bags, veterinarian's 34
Saddlegalls 55,78
Saddler Chapter IV
Saddler, materials for 85
Saddler tools, ordnance 83
Saddler tools, quartermaster 80
Scratches 10, g
Section, baggage
Section, ration
Set, ' ' wheel' ' and ' ' lead " harness 75
Shelter 24
Shoeing Chapter VI
Shoeing outfit, ordnance 105
Shoeing outfit, quartermaster 38, 114
Shoer, The Army Horse 104
INDEX. 127
Page.
Shoer, horse, emergency equipment 38,41
Shoes, horse, allowances «. 116
Shoes, horse, nails 116
Shoes, horse, removing 120
Shoes, horse, sizes 116
Shoes, horse, tightening 120
Shooting animals 33
Single set harness 1 66
Sore eyes 52
Sprains 50
Stalled or stuck 57
Strangles 46
Sublimate, corrosive 24
Sulphur 33
Sunstroke 48
Teamster Chapter III
Throwing horses 29
Thrush 51
Ticks 53
Training, horse 17
Train, combat 8
Train, field 8
Transportation, classes 8, 21, 58
Urine, excessive 48
Urine, retention of 48
Wagon, "Army-six " 58
Wagoner Chapter IV
Wagon, escort 58
Wagon, escort, accessories 66
Wagon, escort, capacity 21
Wagon, escort, care of 68
Wagon, escort, greasing 68
Wagon, escort, parts 58
Water, amount required 23
Watering 23
Watering, prohibited when warm 10
Wheel, extra 67
Wheel, harness, definition 75
Worms 47
Wounds, classes 53
Wounds, treatment 54
o
76881°— 15 9
ADDITIONAL COPIES
OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE PROCURED FROM
THE SUPERINTENDENT OP DOCUMENTS
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE
WASHINGTON, D. C.
AT
40 CENTS PER COPY
RETURN TO the circulation desk of any
University of California Library
or to the
NORTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY
Bldg. 400, Richmond Field Station
University of California
Richmond, CA 94804-4698
ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS
• 2-month loans may be renewed by calling
(510)642-6753
• 1-year loans may be recharged by bringing
books to NRLF
• Renewals and recharges may be made 4
days prior to due date.
DUE AS STAMPED BELOW
MAR 09 1998
12,000(11/95)
VJU I
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY